Class 33 K ^ Book S .3 vs beauties ' e ^ en f «£ Antiquarian revelling in the choice relics of the past dale nut oif Z f U l g and sum ™r-when hill and dale put on their freshest green, when the varieH waftf the th f Statdy tre f rUStl6S in the soft *™» "Wet watts the fragrance of many scented flowers— brW thousands of weary workers, tired of the rTrky town and the carking cares of life, to enjoy the beautfes INTRODUCTORY. of the landscape and gain fresh vigour from the pure ozone, " Away from the dwellings of care-worn men The waters are sparkling in grove and glen ! Away from the chamber and sullen hearth, The young leaves are dancing in breezy mirth ! Their light stems thrill to the wild-wood strains And youth is abroad in the green domains." — Hemans. Is there a soul who is charmed with the wild rusticity of Nature in her primeval loveliness ? Is there one who views with pleasure the skill by which the handiwork of man has reclaimed from the mazy woodland, the trim pavterre and undulating slope of fertile pasture ? Is there an aesthete ravished with the triumphs of art which abound in the great houses of the nobles of the land ? Is there a student who loves to wander through the cloisters of ancient Abbey and ruined Priory, musing on the grey antiquities, memorials of the mighty dead ? If so, each of these can satisfy his bent no better than by a visit to that portion of the county of Nottingham designated " The Dukeries," and in- cluding the famous forest of Sherwood, one of the few remnants of the glories of a bygone age. . It is the purpose of this book to furnish the stranger with a Guide by which can be learned how best the beauties of Sherwood may be seen, and we trust that under its direction a visit to this historic neighbourhood may carry with it, by all who have made the tour, pleasant recollections of the homes of famous men, and of places and names which have made our country celebrated in the annals of the world. From its association with, the memory of " bygone times," and its intimate connection with some of the greatest names in our history, the town of Worksop possesses attractions of no common order to all in the least conversant with topographical lore. Placed, as it must be, in the same category as many other towns in our sea-girt isle, its origin seems to be involved in some obscurity. Concerning its INTRODUCTORY. state and affairs anterior to the Conquest there are no written memorials extant to assist our researches, though indications are not wanting of the residence of the Ancient Britons, including the discovery of many remains of great antiquity, amongst which may be noted the existence of tumuli or barrows (the ancient burial mounds of the Britons) in the vicinity, with the usual contents of bones and earthen-ware. The rich soil and favourable climate, together with advantages derived from a well-wooded and well-watered district afforded by this sylvan neighbourhood for the dwelling and sustenance of the ancient inhabitants of this island, render the presumption of its very early peopling, a matter quite within the range of probability. It is to the Norman era that we usually look for those reliable records which serve as evidences in local history, and in the pages of Domes- day Book (compiled under the direction of the Conqueror about 1086,) is certified the ownership of Elsi a Saxon nobleman, son of Caschin. This serves to prove the existence of Werchesop (Worksop) in Anglo-Saxon times. Its subsequent history will be found referred to under the heading of "The Lords of Worksop Manor" and more especially in our references to that portion of Worksop which is doubtless the chief centre of attraction — its venerable and noble Church, part of the remains of that ancient Augustinian Priory with which the *early history of the town is inseparably connected. The neat old town of Worksop, quaint in its accustomed trimness, is the rendezvous around which the visitor will find most to interest him, and it is here that his headquarters should, for ' a time at least, be fixed.. There need be no difficulty experienced in finding suitable accommodation at the various hostelries, as their reputation for kindly attention and good cheer has gone forth from all who have had the good fortune to partake of their INTRODUCTORY. hospitality. Indeed the traveller will find it a great advantage to entrust himself and his party to the thoughtful care of " mine host," or to the proprietor of one of the several excellent Posting Houses, as by this means difficulties will be avoided in obtaining permission to proceed through the private grounds of the noble owners of the mansions in the vicinity. A drive through the forest — now threading our way through the thick brushwood, flanked on either side by the tall monarchs of the growth of centuries, then spinning along the well-kept roads of luxuriant parks, where the axe of the woodman has opened up charming vistas stretching as far as the eye can reach — is a powerful appetizer, and while some neat-handed Phyllis is preparing a substantial repast, let us take a glance at Modern Worksop. MODERN WORKSOP. N wandering over this portion of the classic locality of Sherwood's once mighty forest, we will, for the time being, direct our attention to the consideration and examination of places and things as they now present themselves to us. With a noble frag- ment of a grand Minster as its Church, Worksop the capital of the " Dukeries," whose mag- woodlands come sweeping down to the very outskirts of the town, is not easily surpassed in general attractiveness. A gently- sloping valley, interspersed with wood- land and luxuriant pasture, meets the stranger on every hand as he perambulates the environs of Worksop, after alighting at the station, into which run the Manchester, Sheffield and Lincolnshire, and Midland Railways. Our clean little town has no factories — though auri sacra fames may ere long alter this, to the joy of some and dismay of others — belching forth steam and smoke to begrime its walls. The air is pure and undented, imparting health and vigour in its very breath. Now and then the sweet MODERN WORKSOP. luscious odour of golden barley as it is undergoing the malting process, is scented by the pedestrian as he passes some plain dark building, capped with its lofty cowl, denoting unmistakably the locale of a maltkiln. The manufacture of chairs has long been carried on with success at Worksop, but this in no way detracts from its physical and artistic features ; nor does the timber trade, which has of late years become a thriving busi- ness in the town, interfere with its rural appearance. According to Camden, the common English liquorice used to be grown in some parts of the county for sale at Worksop, but its cultivation has for many years been discontinued. In the neighbourhood the pursuit of agriculture is seen to its best advan- tage. Skill and capital have never been wanting to make the earth bring forth the richest of her fruits. The grinding of corn has for years been an established industry in Worksop ; the flour as well as the malt here produced being much in request in the neighbouring towns of Sheffield and Manchester, and elsewhere. These industries are the necessary accompaniment of an agricultural locality, and there can be nothing in them to pollute the atmosphere, or mar the pristine beauty of the sur- rounding scenery. The population of Worksop at the census in 1881 was 11,697; in 1871, it was 10,410; and in 1 801 it was 3,263, so there has been a considerable increase during the present century. The parish embraces the townships of Worksop, Gateford, Haggonfield, Osberton, Shireoaks, and Radford. This last named is an ancient appellation of the suburb in which the Church is situated. Leland in his Itinerary, observes " Wyrkesop is called in some old writings Radeford." The urban affairs are controlled by the Local Board of Health, whose offices are in the Town Hall; and to those in search of a health resort it will be a satisfaction to learn that the scheme of drainage, as prepared by Mr. R. Rawlinson, c.e., c.b., MODERN WORKSOP. ranks as one of the best pieces of sewerage construction in the country. An efficient Fire Brigade has also been equipped by the local authority. Worksop is supplied with water of absolute purity by the Waterworks Company, whose works lie on the north side of the town at a great elevation. The parish is in the jurisdiction of the petty sessional division of the county, attached to which is a numerous and effective body of police. A Co.unty Court for the trial of civil causes is also held monthly. The Postal and Telegraph Office is centrally situated in Potter street, next door to Messrs. Sissons and Son's printing and stationery establishment, where this handbook is published. Adjacent thereto is also the Town Hall and Corn Exchange, in an Italian style of architecture, built in 1851 by a Joint Stock Company. The arms of the Newcastle family, carved in stone, adorn the front. The clock was a present from the Duke of Newcastle, and is one of the most useful institutions in Worksop. There is a spacious Assembly Hall, also a Corn Sale-room, and adjoining is the Mechanics' Institute and News Room. The Workhouse of . the Union, which comprises 29 parishes and townships, stands on the north east side of the town, and was built in 1837. A Dispensary was founded by Viscountess Galway in 1867, and there is also a Savings Bank in Bridge street. The firms of bankers are Messrs. Beckett and Co., and the Nottingham and Notting- hamshire Banking Company. Amongst the Places of Worship, besides the Priory Church with which we shall deal in another page, is S. JOHN'S CHURCH, A beautiful modern building near the railway station. The ecclesiastical district around it is bounded on the south by the river Ryton. It seats 580 persons, and 380 of these seats are free. The late Mr. 8 MODERN WORKSOP. George Savile Foljambe was a great benefactor towards its erection, which was mainly due to his liberality. Viscountess Milton laid the foundation stone on April 16th, 1868. The architecture is Early English, and presents a remarkably graceful and light appearance. Messrs. Clarke and Son, of Not- tingham, were the archi- tects, and their designs for a building with nave, chancel, aisles, vestry, clerestory, and western tower with spire 150 ft. high, embodying in vari- ous parts of the sacred edifice some exceedingl} 7 choice examples of ec- clesiastical ornamentation have been carried out with admirable skill. An elaborate reredos of polished Sicilian and Belgian marbles, with panels of Derbyshire alabaster, has been erected by public con- S. John's Church. tribution, in memory of Mr. George Savile Foljambe, who did so much to assist the erection of this beautiful example of modern art in Worksop. At the summit of Park street stands the ROMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL. Here we observe a complete change from the prevalent style of architecture to which we shall refer in our notices of the older buildings. The edifice is designed in the style which prevailed about the early part of the reign of Henry VIII. It was built in 1840, by the twelfth Duke of Norfolk, who sold the Worksop Manor estate to MODERN WORKSOP. the Duke of Newcastle. The ornamentation of the exterior has been treated with much freedom, although the best examples of the period have been copied in its production. The nave is oblong, and the sanctuary semi-hexangular. There is a traceried window over the western entrance, and above this, in a richly canopied niche, is a statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary, to whom the church is dedicated. About 300 persons can be accommodated in the nave ; Roman Catholic Chapel. the woodwork in the roof of which exhibits an outline of Westminster Hall. White Roche Abbey stone has been used for the altar, at the back of which is a beautiful oak reredos. The length outside is 80 ft. ; breadth 32 ft. ; height to roof-ridge 52 ft. On one side of the Chapel is a Cemetery, and situated in front of the Pastor's house is an appropriately laid-out pleasance. Alban Butler, author of the " Lives of the Saints." was once io MODERN WORKSOP. tutor to the Duke of Norfolk's family, and officiated as priest at Worksop. There is a commodious school, built by the Duke of Norfolk, in connection with the chapel. OTHER PLACES OF WORSHIP. The Wesleyan Chapel, built in 1863, and capable of seating 670, stands in Newcastle street ; The Con- gregational Church, in Bridge place, erected in 1876, and accommodating about 450 persons ; The Free Church, Potter street, built in 1837 and restored in 1875, affording accommodation for 550 people ; and The Primitive Methodist Zion Chapel, ■ John street, built in 1879, an d having about 500 sittings, will be seen to be all spacious buildings of modern construction. What will, however, occupy most of the Visitor's time, and furnish the more numerous points of interest, is an account of that famous religious foundation of w T hich the Parish Church of Worksop is the noble survivor, and to which we now direct attention. IBarksflp Iferjj : Its Foundation, Endowment and Dissolution WITH A DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF THE PARISH CHURCH ilTH this venerable pile the history of Work- sop is closely interwoven, and without jj2 burdening the Tourist, who is out on pleasure bent, with a mass of genealogical and archaeological lore, we purpose giving, from the best authorities, a brief glance at the history of the men who reared the sacred Priory and filled it with saintly canons, and the events which subsequently turned mitred abbot and tonsured friar adrift, raz- ing the grey old Priory walls, and leaving on the minds of men but faint impressions of their early- glory, as of "the baseless fabric of a dream." " I love thy tower, grey ruin, I joy thy form to see, Though reft of all — cell, cloister and hall, — I love thy tottering wall." With the fall of the ill-fated Saxon at Hastings, William the Conqueror gained such a footing on English soil that it needed but a few more years to completely quell the turbulent nobles, and introduce the forms and usages of Norman chivalry. A powerful knight named Roger de Busli (or Builli), who came over with the Conqueror, seems to have 12 WORKSOP PRIORY. been remarkably favoured by his king ; for he was the holder of one hundred and seventy manors, many of which were in this districl. Some say that this might) 7 baron resided at Blyth ; others, that his principal seat was at Tickhill, and again that he now and then lived at Worksop. Elsi, the Saxon, had previously held the manor of Werchesope, but in allotting the conquered country amongst his victorious followers, the king granted the manor of Worksop to Roger de Busli, and it continued for two generations in the possession of lords of that South-East view of the original Minster as supposed. name. The grand heritage seems to have passed into the hands of another Norman knight named William de Lovetot ; whether through marriage with De Bush's own daughter, or through some other feudal arrangement, seems not to be within the realm of certainty at this distant period of time. Dugdale, in his Monasticon, where the charter is recorded, begins his references to the Priory, thus : — " Workesop Abbaihia fund at a fnit tertia idus Mail anno tertio Regis Henrici primi" which signifies that the 13th day of May, in the third year of the reign of WORKSOP PRIORY. 13 Henry I. was the date at which the foundation of the Abbey was begun to be laid. We may take it, therefore, that Sir William de Lovetot founded the monastery about the year 1103, although it is sur- mised by some that a religious house existed previous to this time. Concerning the date of the founda- tion, we may here add the opinion of Mr. Nicholson, the architect employed in the restoration of the Church in 1846, who says : pIPiiiSK South-West view of the original Minster as supposed. " The two massive columns, one on each side at the east end of the nave, and the remaining portions of the present church eastward, as well as other fragments now extant, are of pure Norman architec- ture, and agree well with this date. From this it appears that the original Minster was built at two different times ; and, probably, as the nave indicates two distinct periods in its architecture, the earlier 14 WORKSOP PRIORY. nave may have been partially destroyed, or the origi- nal design of the building was not completed until a less massive style began to be adopted, about seventy years after the original foundation, or about the year 1170." Its patron saint was S. Cuthbert, though after- wards the edifice was dedicated to S. Mary. This dedication to two saints is laid much stress upon by those who are of opinion that a place of worship existed here previous to the foundation of the Norman Priory. They hold that this double dedi- cation preserves the memory of its two-fold origin. That the foundation of the original Church dates back to a very early period, they aver, is indicated by its dedication to S. Cuthbert, who was the sixth bishop of Durham, and died in the year of our Lord 686. The new Priory is thus believed to have stood upon the site of, and incorporated, the old Parish Church of S. Cuthbert. The Norman founder of the Priory, with half-concealed contempt for the semi-barbarous saints of a subjugated people, assumed, in place of the local dedication, the Catholic title of the Virgin Mary ; but the name of the great bishop of Lindisfarne being too deeply rooted in the religious sentiments of the populace to be ruthlessly set aside, the Church of the people retained the name of S. Cuthbert, while that of the Canons was known as S. Mary's. Concerning this theory, however, we venture no opinion. The sacred pile was set apart for the habita- tion of the Canons of the S. Augustine Order, who in their monastic life obeyed very severe rules. They slept upon mattresses with woollen blan- kets, gave themselves to fasting, silence, study, and preaching, and we are informed by an old writer that " Pope Benedict the twelfth expressly enjoined reading, writing, correcting, and illuminating, as an avocation of the monks." We are likewise told that as regards neatness of execution and splen- dour of decoration they possessed eminent skill, and that some of the members were const antly en- WORKSOP PRIORY. 15 gaged in literary labours, while to their industry and capabilities in this respect we are doubtless much indebted. Much of the history of these holy men is, like their mortal remains, hid- den in dust and obscu- rity, but certain it is they have left in the precincls of their monas- tic abode a claim to something like venera- tion, for we cannot but reverence them for their zeal and piety, as evinced by their devotion to the religion they professed. The annexed illustra- tion, which is a fac-simile of an engraving obtain- ed from a most reliable source, gives a distinct impression of the habi- liment of the Canons of the Order of S. Augus- Canon Regular of the Order of S. Augustine. No one was admitted to the Order until he was 17. The re- gular habit was a long black cas- sock, over which was a white rochet, and again over that a black cloak and hood. The illus- tration here given is a fac-simile of a drawing executed during the eighth century, and originally be- longed to the Monaster)^ of S. Augustine, at Canterbury. It re- presents a very ancient penman in the exercise of his vocation, and is moreover itself a curious speci- men of the art alluded to. 1 6 WORKSOP PRIORY. De Lovetot richly endowed the Priory with tithes and grants of land in various parishes round Work- sop. Richard de Lovetot was also a munificent benefactor of the Priory, and not only continued his father's grants, but contributed a tithe from his own rents. Another De Lovetot, son of Richard, was a generous patron of the Priory, and gave of his wealth a portion of his rents " on this side or beyond the sea." So it will easily be seen that there were not wanting Churchmen in those days ready to endow the religious houses in a princely fashion. It is to their beneficence that we now owe the pleasure of rambling bare-headed amongst the shrines of de- parted greatness, and seeing evidences in the architec- ture of the period, the germs of that talent which was to ripen into the beauty and chastity of the Renaissance. As years passed by and the revenues of the De L^etots' estates were devoted to the purpose intended by their donors, a stately minster must have reared its lofty fane. Conjecture can only be busy as to what was the exact appearance of the original edifice, but the period at which it was built, and the remains that are now left, give abundant reason for the surmise that the Cathedral Church of Southwell resembles it in many particulars. Most probably it was a cruciform structure, and had a central tower ; but this has long ago been doomed to destruction, together with the choir and transept, possibly by the ruthless hand of puritanical violence, which swept away so many of these beautiful speci- mens of man's handiwork. Another agency has worked its will on the defenceless walls : — "Time which antiquates antiquities, And hath an art to make dust of all things." That portion which remains — the nave and side aisles — is now the Parish Church of Worksop, and a grand old history it has, of which our townsmen may well be proud. These venerable vestiges of WORKSOP PRIORY. 17 ecclesiastical magnificence — venerable even in their decay — are regularly used for the praise and worship of the Almighty by the descendants of those who contributed largely to the erection or endowment of the original Minster — monumental memorials of some of whom are still preserved within its hallowed pre- cincts ; whilst under the small green mounds outside, "Where heaves the turf in many a mould'ring heap, Each in his narrow cell for ever laid, The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep." To Archaeologists it will be interesting to put forward some of the reasons assigned upon which it is assumed that a central tower, choir and transept existed ; and, in pointing out these features, the visitor will be enabled to form his own judgment, according to" the depth of his studies in the subject. In the springing of the arches at the eastern portion of the church, some evidence is forthcoming that originally a tower was erected upon T( jthem; indeed, the indications here are so distinct as to place this surmise almost within the realm of cer- tainty. As to the former existence of the transept, when graves have been opened in the churchyard, the foundations of the south transept have been observed. With respect to the position of the ancient choir, its extent may, upon a minute inspection of the site, be traced with considerable accuracy. The churchwardens' memoranda of the year 1629 show a reference to an agreement relating to the repairs of the chancel of the church, which, by inference, has an important bearing on this conjecture. The agreement speaks of the chancel as "that place which is used now as the queare of the parish church of Worksoppe." This leaves the impression that there was at this time still lurking in the memory of the writer, a recollection of another grander, nobler choir, the substitute of which was only to be designated by the words "that place." The illustrations given (pages 12 and 13) of the ori- ginal Minster are reduced from sketches made by Mr. WORKSOP PRIORY. Richard Nicholson, architect, under whose direction the present Church was successfully restored in 1850, and to whose highly-interesting work on the subject, published by S. Sissons, we have previously acknow- ledged our obligation. Though much concerning the details is left to conjecture, sufficient evidence is extant to warrant the assertion that the original structure resembled, in general appearance, what is here illustrated. This noble sanctuary, in the zenith of its great- ness, calls up before the mind strange imagery of the 'it ! UM South- West view of the Priory Church in 1845. {Previous to Restoration). past. Situated almost in the heart of " Merrie Sherwood," — infested with Robin Hood and his daring band of outlaws — was this splendid Priory. Whether the Canons ever received rude treatment at the hands of the bold companions or not, a time arrived in the history of England, which is so well illustrated in the local annals of Worksop, when the magnificence of the Priory had reached a climax, and was soon destined to decay. The WORKSOP PRIORY. 19 old story of the dissolution of the Monasteries need not be repeated at length here. King Henry VIII. resolved to dispose of the wealth of the Monasteries, and amongst those which suffered was Interior view of the Priory Church in 1845. (Previous to Restoration) . the Priory of Worksop. This took place in 1539, when the King sent a commission to Worksop to demand its surrender. The income then amounted 20 WORKSOP PRIORY. to about ^"289 a year, and, besides the Prior, the establishment was inhabited by 15 monks. Subse- quently King Henry gave the Monastery and its lands, amounting to 2,333 acres, to Francis Talbot, fifth Earl of Shrewsbury, on a feudal tenure. When the monks were there no longer to watch over the sacred temple with tender care, it seems soon to have commenced to fall into decay. According to the entries in the churchwardens' accounts, there are numerous references to the sad condition into which the building was lapsing. Some parts of the roof fell in, and the iconoclastic spirit of the times is evinced in one entry (about 1560), as follows : " Item paid for bred and drynk at the abollyshing of the ymages & p'lling down of the alt [ar] viijd." In the church- wardens' accounts of the time of Queen Elizabeth appear many entries concerning the sale of stone, iron, wood, etc. During the removal some years ago of a very old building which stood upon the site of the present Town Hall, many beautiful carved stones were discovered, which had evidently been removed from the Priory ; indeed it seems as though the Conventual Buildings served as a stone quarry to the neighbourhood at that time. What are preserved to us as the remnants of the once mighty Minster are the nave and side aisles, which can be put to no better purpose than to be used as the Parish Church of Worksop. The same grand Liturgy of the Church of England, im- proved and beautified, is heard week-day and Sunday, and the sweet-toned voices of the choir, with " The holy organ rolling waves Of sound on roof and floor," echo the chorus of the stately service used when Prior and Canons worshipped within its walls. The edifice was completely restored in 1850, under the direction of Mr. Richard Nicholson, who was a native of Worksop. A triplet window, with a beautifully constructed wheel-window above it, was inserted about the time of the restoration. The WORKSOP PRIORY. 21 cost amounted to about ;£ 6,800, and the architect's plans were admirably carried out. A splendid work of art is the reredos, designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, and given to the Church by the fifth Duke of Newcastle. Its magnificence is alike worthy of the talented architect and the noble and high-minded donor. The style of the building is Norman, varied with examples of the transitional period, sometime about 1 170. The fine proportions of the two west towers, 100 feet high, will at once strike the spectator ; possibly in the early building they ma) 7 have been surmounted with wooden spires, which were not uncommon in those days. Pinnacles adorn each angle of the battlemented parapet of the towers, but these are probably of a later period than the towers themselves. The lover of a well- Great West Doorway. preserved specimen of the Norman will find much to admire in the magnificent west door between the two towers. Here is a beautiful example of the semi-circular arch- way; the massive plain- ness, which is usually to be observed in Nor- man architecture, be- ing enriched by nail- head, dog-tooth, chev- ron and other orna- ments, showing the transition which was taking place in the twelfth century. A window above is sur- rounded by three rows of nail-head mouldings, and various other styles of ornament. There are two Norman doorways on the north side, one of which is highly enriched. Another means of entrance is by a 22 WORKSOP PRIORY. Porch, in the Perpendicular style, situated in front of the doorway on the south side of the Church. This portal possesses its original door of massive oak, which is overlaid with ironwork of a very intri- cate and beautiful design. Such are the chief features of the exterior of the building. The fabric is rich in the interior. On either side of the nave are handsome cylindrical and octagonal columns arranged alternately ; the pure Exterior of the Priory Church. — Its present appearance. Norman coining out very distinctly in the two at the east end. The capitals of the lighter shafts are chastely ornamented with leaves of the lily, above which is a row of tooth ornament. The length of the nave is 140 feet and there are two side aisles. Above the ten arches, which spring w 7 ith a bold yet tender grace, are the triforium and clerestory, the windows of the latter being very conveniently ar- ranged. The most interesting monument to the departed dead is contained in a thirteenth century WORKSOP PRIORY. 23 arch in the north wall. At one time it is probable an effigy was here, attached to which is a story that carries us back to the time of the Crusades. Thomas de Furnival, heir to the family which were once lords of Worksop, went to Jerusalem amongst the Crusaders, as was the custom at that time (1237), where he died and was buried. But his Interior of Priory Church. — Its present appearance. mother's grief that his remains should lie amongst infidels was such that his brother Gerard con- veyed his body from Palestine home, and " then tumulate here in Nottinghamshire, at Wyrksoppe, the north side of this Mynster." Judging from the position of the arch, and the period at which it was most likely constructed, it is reason- 2 4 WORKSOP PRIORY. able to surmise that it covered the Crusader's tomb. What remain of the other monuments in the Church are in a very dilapidated condition. The bells, which are eight in number, are hung in the north tower, and there is a fine organ, built by Messrs. Brindley and Foster, Sheffield. Amongst the patrons have been the Marquis of Rockingham, Earl Fitzwilliam, the Duke of Norfolk, and the Duke of Newcastle ; the last of whom has now the patronage of the living. S. MARY'S CHAPEL. "I do love these ancient ruins; We never tread upon them but we set Our foot upon some reverend history." Eastward of the Priory Church, but now detached from it, stands a beautiful ruin, testifying, in its desolation, to the early grandeur of the temple of which it formed a part, and to the remarkable taste, and elaborate skill of mediaeval architects. This is pointed out to the Visitor as that which remains of S. Mary's Chapel. Three sides of it are standing, but they are roofless. The date of its erection has been put at the middle of the thirteenth century. Possibly it may have been founded by Maud, wife of Gerard de Furnival, as the style of architecture corresponds with' the date of her residence here. By whomsoever founded, it is an exquisite fragment of the Early English style. The lancet-shaped windows are of great beauty, and almost perfect, forming some of the choicest specimens of their kind in the Kingdom. Most likely the Chapel was vaulted over and connected by archways with the aisles of the choir. One of the three buttresses to the south wall remains, and is a rare example. WORKSOP PRIORY. 25 11 And, questionless, here, in the open court, Which now lies naked to the injuries Of stormy weather, some men lie interred ; Loved the Church so well, and gave largely to't ; They thought it should have canopied their bones Till Doomsday : but all things have their end. Churches and cities, (which have diseases like men). Must have like death that we have." According to Pigot, a Canon of the Monastery at Worksop — who, in the reign of Edward IV., compiled a rhyming record of the benefactors of the foundation, and to whom we owe much of our know- ledge of the early history of Worksop Priory — Maud Furnival's son William w r as buried in this Chapel, and several stone coffins have been brought to light through excavations ; but these have long since dis- appeared — so uncertain is man's final earthly resting place. The large stone which was upon the tomb of William de Furnival lay for years in the church- yard, and the feelings of the Antiquary will be shocked to learn that it was converted into a sink- stone at a house hard by. The following words were inscribed in ancient characters, round the stone, Me memorans, palle, simili, curris quia calle, De jFournivalle pro Willielmo, rogo, Psalle, which Monkish epitaph may be interpreted thus : — " Remembering me, turn pale ! and as thou art run- ning in a like path, sing a psalm, I entreat thee, for William de Furnival.'* Imagine this sonorous Latin inscription on the stone confronting the doughty house-wife as she proceeded about her domestic duties. Unless of a very aesthetic temperament, it is doubtful if she would have sacrificed the useful sinkstone to a sentimental veneration for choice relics. Had she been informed that this ponderous and venerable monument at one time covered the body of a noble Furnival, and had she understood the meaning of the strange characters upon it, the traces of which were yet legible, the worthy woman would doubtless have been somewhat startled. 26 WORKSOP PRIORY. THE CLOISTERS. On the north side of the Church are the remains of the Cloisters, near the site of the Prior's house supposed to have been attached to the north tower. Without determining the exadl extent of the cloisters, some speculation may be offered, and with considerable probability, as to the space they occupied. Most likely they formed a parallel- ogram, the Church taking up one side. They were vaulted, with possibly a dormitory over them. Let us look for one moment at the beautiful Norman entrance, enriched with the exquisite taste of the transitional period, an illustration of which we give below. Nothing could be more symmetrical than this remarkable relic. Probably through this the Prior would proceed to the chastely- adorned door- way in the north aisle, and so into the church. An ancient wall north of the supposed position of the Prior's house ex- hibits some round-headed apertures and corbels, giving good grounds for the surmise that it sup- ported some vaulted building. The string- course and window sills will also excite the imagination of the intelli- gent observer, who will bring his own judgment to bear on the supposi- tion that this wall was a portion of the cloisters. Considerable improve- ments have recently been made near these beautiful ruins. By the downfall of several old dilapidated Remains of the Cloisters. tariff w t4iPL»--{l mm WORKSOP PRIORY. 27 out-houses, an eyesore has been removed, and the remains of the Cloisters, and the Church in immediate connection therewith, now present a highly-interesting and pleasing appearance. THE GATE-HOUSE. " The Priorie of Black Chanons there was a thing of great building. There is at the south side of the priorie cowrt a very fair great gate of hewyn stone." So says the observant Leland, who has mentioned in his Itinerary his visit to Worksop in the reign of Henry VIII. The "Priorie Cowrt" has long gone the way of much more of the noble building. The Gate-house is however nearly entire, and will form a very interesting subject for the examination of the student. This is supposed to have been erecled early in the 14th century. The shape of the building is cruciform, or better still it may be described as similar to the letter T. Its handsome gabies are seen at each point, towering above the buildings in the neighbourhood. That at the south was probably surmounted by a cross, although now only the stump remains. In the eastern gable may be seen a window with three lights, the tracery being that of the Early Decorated period. The north gable is plainer than that at the south, although the elevation is the same. A square-headed trefoil window is observed in the west gable. The principal front is that at the south, which measures nineteen yards in breadth. It is divided by vertical buttresses, and horizontally a string-course separates the building into two storeys. The wonderful symmetry of the buttresses deserves a little more than casual inspection. The two middle ones have niches which have lost their figures. Dodsworth, who journeyed to Worksop in 1634, states they contained the effigies of armed knights ; that on the west side exhibiting in sculpture William de Lovetot, the founder, bearing 28 WORKSOP PRIORY. a shield ; the other, on the east side, a similar figure, representing a Furnival, under whose auspices the building was probably eredted. A leading feature in the south front is the very handsome window above the archway entrance, which is of 6 lights with a transom dividing them. The mullions expand into quatrefoils. Some well-preserved sculptured figures may be seen in the canopied niches on either side of this window. They are in an erect position, of Priory Gate-house, Worksop. life-size, and are supposed to be clothed in white raiment. That to the east represents S. Cuthbert, the patron saint, while to the west stands S. Augustine, founder of the order of Canons who abode at Worksop. « In a similar niche, in the gable over the win- dow, is a figure of the Virgin Mary seated, above which is a circular trefoiied opening. The most observable feature, taking the best position from which to view the exterior, is the WORKSOP PRIORY. 29 Porch which is at the entrance to the staircase, and which was probably an afterthought in the ereclion of the Gatehouse. This elegant appendage will be generally admired for its beauty of construction. Surmounting it at one time was a very beautiful battlement which has long since been demolished. It is in the Decorated style, and was originally entered both from the east and west, but the former entrance has been built up for many years. The richly canopied niches above formerly contained groups of figures, but these have disappeared, with the exception of a solitary one on the east side representing a part of the Salutation of the Virgin Mary. On the south side is an elegantly-pro- portioned window, formerly containing some beautiful tracery, and though it has been very severely mal- treated its ancient beauty can yet be discerned. Above is a bas-relief of the Adoration of the Wise Men. Inside the Porch is a handsome niche choicely canopied, and sufficiently large to contain a figure life-size. A public roadway passes through the gateway, which is about 12 feet wide in the centre. The huge piers that supported the gates still remain, along with their massive hinges. In the interior of this gate-house is a comfortable room with an immense fireplace, around which man) 7 a saintly father has mused before a genial blaze, enjoying otium cum dignitate while meditating on the mysteries of his calling. Whilst musing on the graceful proportions of these Conventual Buildings, which have survived the assaults of Barbarism, misguided Fanaticism, and " Time's effacing fingers," we venture to make a slight digression, in order to express the hope that, even in these utilitarian days, there will yet be found amongst us sufficient ardour and generosity to prevent the further demolition — gradual though it be — of such glorious mementoes of the past. Apart from their aesthetic grandeur, how forcibly do these " rich morsels of quaint antiquity" shadow 3 o WORKSOP PRIORY. forth in the respective characteristics of their architecture, the very thoughts and feelings of the times in which they were erected. How clearly do they record — however disfigured by the fanatic or the " beautifier" — the habits, religion, government, and state of civilization of their respective periods ! How interesting, therefore, are these ancient build- ings to the civilized world, in enabling it to look back upon itself and contemplate its condition at various stages of its existence. To Specialists ever stone is suggestive of an idea ; every old building becomes an open book, offering, in the absence of written records, significant evidence towards the elucidation of the nation's history, as well as shewing what the genius and zeal of a past age had accomplished. Monuments of this description are thus worthy of more than mere local interest ; they become of national importance. To others than the Specialist or Antiquary — to every intelligent being, who, in these days of business and bustle, does not allow himself to entirely overlook the beautiful in Art — these exqui- site relics must, in the elegance of their proportions, the thought in their carvings, or in the striking splendour of their tout ensemble, ever be objecfls of the most dignified beauty. It must, therefore, surely be our bounden duty to transmit the inheritance which we now enjoy, unimpaired to the generations yet to come, and for this reason alone it is to be hoped that, whenever restoration or reparation of these Conventual Build- ings may be deemed requisite, a higher appreciation of their value will be found to prevail than is exhi- bited by the mere act of gazing and admiring them, and then carelessly allowing them to decay. In every reflective mind there will doubtless arise a feeling of admiration for these choice productions of human skill, inspiring it with a desire to secure the future preservation of such proud remains of former magnificence, which have afforded pleasure and gratification for ages, and which now put to WORKSOP PRIORY. 31 shame so much of the architecture of the Nine- teenth Century. THE OLD CROSS. Stands nearly opposite the Gateway, but its shaft and conical steps alone remain. It was probably erecSted about 11 60, and its history recalls the time of the Commonwealth, when the common crier pub- lished the bands of marriage from this Cross, con- cerning which custom the Parish Register affords evidence. The markets and fairs of Worksop were most likely held around it in former days, and proclamations concerning the town or kingdom used to be made here. In the vicinity of the Church stands an old well, called the Prior's Well, and which gained a great name for the purity of its water in bygone days. Miraculous cures have been attributed to its virtues, and no doubt it was an important adjunct to the Priory. WORKSOP MANOR HOUSE AND PARK. ^ JPPS |ST an easy distance from Worksop stands the Manor House, to which, after inspecting the J^jjS "lions* 1 of the town, a visit may be paid through the Manor domains — " a sweet and delectable place." The Manor Park adjoins the town, though the latter is hidden from view by the clusters of stately trees which everywhere stud the landscape. On arriving at the southern extremity of the town — the top of Park Street — the Visitor will observe, on the right-hand side of the road, the Lodge Gates, through which he will pass on entering the Manor Estate. The Park formerly contained 1,100 acres, and was eight miles in cir- cumference, but considerable portions of it have been merged in the Clumber estate. Immediately upon entering, the scenery opens delightfully upon the eye. The beautiful expanse of rich pasture, tenanted by numerous flocks and herds, varied on ever)' hand by the oak, the beech, the fir and the cedar, presents a scene of pictur- esque beauty which the Visitor is sure to admire. Southward are the waving woods of the Manor Hills, with their variegated foliage breaking the rich un- dulating greensward, and stretching to Welbeck Park, two miles away, In the foreground is the picturesque Castle Farm ; its Gothic front, embattled parapet, and castle-like appearance, adding greatly to the effect of the scene, which is still further enhanced by the foliage of the surrounding trees. One thick coppice of beech has been named the "Druid's Temple," while the "Lover's Walk" is the significant appellation of a quiet pathway, which WORKSOP MANOR. 33 threads its way 'mid tall trees and woodland beauty, round by the " Plain Piece" — an extensive and beautifully-situated plateau — which is completely sur- rounded by majestic woods, and is used annually as a training ground by the local battalion of Rifle Volunteers. The north-west side of the Park is bounded by a wood known as the " Menagerie" whose smooth greensward walks and beautiful lake are encircled with the cedar, acacia, yew and birch, waving amongst luxuriant verdure, and looking down upon an amphitheatre of surpassing loveliness and beauty. Approaching the House, the Visitor will arrive at the large iron gates, which afford the means of entrance to the court-yard. The original mansion was commenced by the first Earl of Shrewsbury, and finished by the renowned Bess of Hardwick, Countess of Shrews- bury, to whom we have referred in the article on the " Descent of the Dukeries." The powerful Cardinal Wolsey was entertained here, and Mary Queen of Scots was a prisoner at the Manor, in custody of the sixth Earl. It will be remembered that the estate passed to the Dukes of Norfolk through marriage. The beautiful places in lovely Sherwood have not escaped the devastating effects of fire. A vivid recollection will remain for some time of the dis- aster which accompanied an outbreak at Clumber ; but more than a century previous — October, 1761 — the splendid ancestral home of the Talbots and Howards, at Worksop Manor, was burnt down. The damage was estimated at ^"100,000, and many choice relics were consumed in the catastrophe. The house was said to contain 500 rooms, and many celebrated personages had been entertained within its walls. An attempt was made to rebuild portions of it, but this was not completely carried out ; only one side of an intended quadrangle having been erected, though this in itself formed a Mansion of most noble size and appearance. The length of 34 WORKSOP MANOR. this side was 303 feet, and the building would have formed, if finished, one of the largest houses in the kingdom. A lake was staked out to extend along the valley to Worksop, but this scheme was likewise abandoned. Though it may be considered of little use to refer in detail to the past glory of the house, yet its former magnitude and import- ance claim for it at least a hasty notice. In the centre of its handsome front, which presented a facade of lightness, extreme beauty, elegance and grandeur, was a portico with six large and handsome Corinthian columns, which supported the tympanum and pediment. A light balustrade surmounted the front, upon which were placed a number of highly-decorated vases. This front contained sixty-six windows. The exceedingly handsome sculptured pediment was surmounted by three figures : the one with wings representing " Divine Virtue," and the other two " Peace 1 * and " Plenty." In the triangle of the pediment were carved emblem- atic groups, allusive to the family alliances of the Howards. " The lion, dog, and horse," says Eddison in his " History of Worksop," represented strength, fleetness, and fidelity, and with these symbols was a view of the old mansion, in which the setting sun, broken columns, and shattered trees, expressed the devastation caused by the fire ; and again, flourishing oaks, feeding sheep, a ploughman tilling the soil, and architectural instruments signified its restoration and resumed hospitality. At the foot of the pediment was the motto of the Howards, ' Sola virtus invicta'—' Virtue alone is unconquerable.' The interior of the Mansion was on a similar scale of magnificence. On the purchase of the Estate from the Duke of Norfolk, the demolition of the Mansion w T as commenced. After having removed the greater part of the building, the small portion left was repaired, and subsequently converted into a comfortable resi- dence, and occupied for some years by the then Lord Foley. It is now in the occupation of W. I. WORKSOP MANOR. 35 Cookson, Esq., j.p. Near to the house is a cluster of old oaks of very large proportions, and there are also some fine specimens of the beech and cedar. There were, in this Park, some trees mentioned by Evelyn in his "Sylva," containing over six tons of timber each ; one in particular covering with its branches 2827 square yards. The Worksop Manor estate, belonging to the Duke of Newcastle, was sold at Sheffield on Thurs- day in lots, the whole realizing £106,000. The I Manor, which dates back to Saxon times, and has been visited by three English kings, was purchased I for £oo,000 by Mr. John Robinson, brewer, Not- tingham. O^^V /^<5s~r PQ u ^■^tfigto* C L U M BE R. HEN the Tourist has visited the features of attraction in Worksop and its imme- diate suburbs, he will, in all probability, make inquiries for Clumber House, the famous seat of the Dukes of Newcastle. The distance is about four miles, and if the Visitor decide upon a pedestrian tour, he should leave the town by Potter Street, and just after passing the Priory Gate-house, take the first turn to the right, called Netherton road, thence by a footpath on the left over Netherton Fields. After crossing a narrow sandy lane, the gently -sloping hills, beautifully clothed with luxuriant verdure, will sud- denly burst upon the view. By following a winding pathway, through a most refreshing tract of forest scenery and waving corn fields, he will shortly emerge into Clumber Park. By far the larger portion of Visitors, however, will deem it advisable to avail themselves of some quicker mode of locomotion than that of " going by the marrow bone stage." Nor can the Tourist do better than hire a fleet-footed horse and comfort- 38 CLUMBER. able vehicle to take him on the journey, for he has much to see ; and it is only by such means can he see to the utmost, within a reasonable time, the glorious panorama of nature, which shortly unfolds points of inexpressible richness, tenderness, and beauty. From the Railway Station, the road to Clumber leads directly through the town of Worksop, and proceeding along Park street, it soon ascends Sparken Hill. The stretch of woodland scenery will bring upon him feelings of ecstatic delight, as he gazes across the richly- wooded country. Taking the road for about half-a-mile, he will be charmed by the sublimity of the way-side verdure. Amid such a show of forest rareties, the Lodge Gates — the entrance to Clumber Park — will soon be passed, and then the full majesty of Sherwood's w r onders opens out to view. Here the purple heather mingles with the gold-hue gorse ; and above the bracken wave the branches of the tall fir and larch, whilst the wild woods resound with the musical merriment of the sylvan minstrels. Sometimes a mighty oaken giant rears his proud head, as though proclaiming sovereignty over the wild herbage, and defying the destructive hand of old Father Time to do his worst. The silvern birch overhangs the winding roadways, on either side of which Nature assumes her mantle of pictur- esque luxuriance, and reigns supreme as in the days of Robin Hood. The delicate tints of Flora's gems now and again grace the pathway, and make all surrounding redolent with their perfumes. The frightened coney hies him to his hiding place and defies persuit, as the footfall of the traveller wakes the echoes of the forest. The timid pheas- ant in its gorgeous plumage, startled by the strange intruder, suddenly bursts upon the wing, breaking the quietude of the scene by its cry of alarm, whilst here and there may be observed charming vis- tas of emerald glades and shadowy groves, bringing to our recollection, the beautiful lines of Mrs. Hemans : — CLUMBER. 39 " And ever, through the shades, A swell of deep iEolian sound goes by From Fountain voices in their secret glades, And low-reed whispers, making sweet reply To summer's breezy sigh. And young leaves trembling to the wind's light breath, Which ne'er had touched them with a hue of death, And the transparent sky Rang as a dome, all thrilling to the strain Of harps that midst the woods made harmony Solemn and sweet. " One striking feature, after entering the precincts of the Park, is the result which Art, having skil- fully rendered her assistance to Nature, has produced. On either side of the excellent roads, charmingly- arranged beds of evergreens, newly-planted trees, and shrubs, have recently added considerably to the. beauty of the landscape ; forming as they do, with the surrounding foliage, an intermixture and contrast of shades and colourings, that will remain perfect in almost every season of the year. Clumber Park comprises about 4000 acres, and its circumference measures nearly 11 miles. Eighty- seven acres are covered by the waters of the placid lake, which glistens in front of the stately house. According to Domesday Book, Clumber was part of De Bush's fee, and, as will be seen on reference to the genealogical history, came into the Duke of Newcastle's family by marriage. Clumber House was built about 1770, by the second Duke of New- castle. It was said to be one of the most com- fortable and magnificent abodes to be found amongst the seats of the English nobility, and was celebrated for the treasures it contained. The mansion has three fronts, and along the principal one, which is mirrored on the silvery surface of the lake, runs a delicate Ionic colonnade, surmounted by the arms of the family. For a quarter of a mile along the margin of the lake, which cost ^"7000 in construction, extends a beautiful terrace or pleasure ground laid out in the most tasteful manner, and profusely decorated 4 o CLUMBER. with marble statues and sculptured vases, and from which there is a glorious view of the sur- rounding woodland. Adjoining this charming parterre are vast lawns, that extend like sheets of vivid green, with here and there clumps of gigantic trees heaping up rich piles of foliage. The cedar, the yew, the pine, and the fir, blend their innumerable shades of Nature's tints, and refledl their quivering branches in the glassy lake, in whose limped waters the trout roam fearlessly about ; while across the broad expanse of " shimmering sheen," and situated amid the distant woods, a small rustic temple, grown green and dank with age, tends to give an air of classic sandtity to the vicinity. All around seems to be enchanted ground, worthy the seat of one of England's greatest nobles. Riding gracefully on the crest of the lake are two gallant vessels, christened the " Salamanca," and the " Lincoln," the latter being of 40 tons burden. The marble fountain in the centre of the terrace was brought from Italy, and has two basins ; the lower being 12 feet 6 inches, and the smaller one about 4 feet in diameter. Four dolphins support the higher basin, from the top of which a fountain throws upwards a clear pellucid stream, which falls again in thousands of dainty globules. This magnificent triumph of handiwork was cut from one solid piece of marble weighing 50 tons. It is, however, only one example of the countless modes of adornment which may be found at every turn of this noble edifice and its surroundings. No home in the country is better known than Clumber. Its owners have been men of high rank and great wealth, and they have permitted the public at different times of the year to visit the house and see the treasures it contains. The Dukes of Newcastle have been patrons of Art, and collec- tors of the best productions of painters for many generations, and the Clumber collection is well known all over the country, containing, as it does, celebrated specimens of the handiwork of the most CLUMBER. 4i Ksggg &cy filrevil :; <^r'i- m>«& . ic*£ i,^m f^C ~ : ' tH^Tf**^^^' ' i^iSfi^S C'-'f^- ■ wga3r <*)&$&.* ■j**!,*''--'* s '^§>i^ ^^^r^^^f^^ %#**4 m^p^»: ^ter^v'**'^ sy .*&?k .--- --:-:!. : ..•:-- ■ - Piilliiiiil Lincoln Terrace, Clumber. (From Photo, by G. W. Wilson &> Co.) illustrious amongst the ancient masters. Some of the most valuable of these pictures were lost in the disastrous fire, which, it will be remembered, occurred on March 26th, 1879. Through this unfortunate event more than 20 rooms were wrecked, and a large number of most valuable art treasures, letters, and MSS. entirely destroyed. Happily, by the prompt action of the housekeeper, and others who were on the premises, fire brigade assistance was quickly procured, and in about six hours the flames were mastered, and a considerable quantity of the principal articles de luxe and other valuables saved. 42 CLUMBER. The greatest havoc was caused in the Breakfast Room, on the roof of which the fire commenced. Every article within the walls of this unfortunate apartment was consumed. Amongst the most serious losses were many valuable paintings, including " The Virgin and Child," by Albert Durer ; a grand sea-piece, by Ruysdael ; " Peasants playing at bowls," by Teniers, etc., etc. On the Staircase also some valuable paintings, four magnificent vases, and hun- dreds of pieces of old Sevres china of priceless worth succumbed to the ravages of the flames. That portion of the house which was destroyed was the oldest part, comprising the west front, grand staircase and entrance hall ; but the eminent architect, Mr. Charles Barry, has drawn some elabor- ate plans, which have been partially carried out, and when finished will render Clumber even more palatial than ever. A visit to the interior of the house will highly delight all those who enjoy seeing the appointments of a well-ordered mansion, or those whose aestheticism revels in the sight of beautiful pictures and articles of vertu. The State Dining Room measures 60 feet in length and 34 feet breadth, so that it will accommodate about 150 guests. On the walls hang the celebrated market pieces, the joint pro- ductions of Snyders and Langan, representing game, fish, fruit, and poultry. These priceless pieces narrowly escaped destruction in the fire, but hap- pily they were saved. There are also two landscapes by Zuccarelli, and a large painting by Weenix. These seven alone are valued at ^"25,000. The ceiling and cornices of this charming apartment are richly gilded ; the walls and curtains being blue, of a subdued tone. The internal fittings are all exceedingly choice and elegant. Perhaps the solid stateliness of the Grand Hall will excite the greatest amount of interest in the general observer. Its spacious proportions at once strike the Visitor with admiration. This hall, as already stated, has only quite recently been erected, CLUMBER. 43 and occupies the site which the recent fire rendered vacant by its savage onslaught. Its roof and gallery are supported by shapely marble pillars, with orna- mental capitals. The style of the apartment is classic, and the span of the beautiful arches is im- posing and dignified. The floor is composed of marble, mosaic, and tesselated work, laid with rare skill. It measures 92 feet long, by 45 feet wide. In the hall is a colossal statue of Napoleon, by Canova — by some attributed to Franzoni, — a superb statue by Bailey, of Thetis plunging Achilles into the river Styx. Urns from Pompeii, busts of Pitt and Fox, by Nollekens, and of Shakespere, Peel, and Oliver Cromwell are to be seen ; as is also a bust of the late Duke of Newcastle, by Belt, which played a not unimportant part in the law courts, when that artist's abilities were called in question. Those who knew his Grace testify to the accuracy of the likeness, which is strong evidence in favour of the skill of the sculptor. There is also a well-executed bust of the fifth Duke of Newcastle, by Dewick, of Retford. A copy from Rome, of Laocoon strug- gling in the coils of the serpents, will also attract attention. The apartment is further enriched by some good examples of the old masters, including a fine painting— " Southwark Fair" — by Hogarth, and a grand forest scene, by Gainsborough. Conspic- uous features in this magnificent hall are two large tables, in the vestibule, with very choice inlaid marble slabs, and also some handsome bronze vases. A grand staircase of marble and Parian cement, of three flights, with marble dado, leads to the gallery above, where the balusters of alabaster and marble exhibit some excellent workmanship. The grand Drawing Room was re-decorated in 1 86 1 for the reception of the Prince of Wales. Its walls are hung with a rich cream satin damask ; the furniture being chastely gilded, and the upholstery consisting of light blue satin damask.. The apartment presents a most elegant appearance, and contains many costly articles of priceless value. Here are 44 CLUMBER. pictures by Vandyke, Murillo, Castiglioni and Lawrence. The richly-gilded chandelier is of an ex- ceedingly beautiful character. Some very choice ebony cabinets, mounted with ormolu and inlaid with buhl, will command the attention of the Visitor, as will also the exceptionally-handsome gilded cornices and various other carved work, which formed part of the appointments in the Doge's palace at Venice ; two costly tables with marble slabs, inlaid with Indian precious stones, from the King's palace, Bermuda, are likewise worthy of notice. Vases set with precious stones and ornamented with filigree work are disposed around the room in the most exquisite taste, and the connoisseur of china may find many rare examples of Sevres, Chelsea and Dresden manufacture. In the small Drawing Room may also be seen furniture of tulip wood and rose wood, richly mounted with ormolu. The paintings in this room are by Rembrandt, Rubens, Poussin, Van der Meulen, Teniers, Canaletti and others. Perhaps the best known picture in the Clumber collection hangs in this room. It is " Sigismunda, daughter of Tancred, King of Sicily, weeping over the heart of her murdered lover." The painting was in Sir Luke Schaub's gallery, and has been attributed both to Corregio and to Furini ; but whoever of these great masters is the painter, the wonderful study has caused a great sensation in the world of art. This is the picture Hogarth is said to have selected for the purpose of copying, in order to prove that the old masters were not superior in the talent they dis- played to the modern painters. When Hogarth's example was finished, it drew from Horace Walpole the cruel criticism, that his Sigismunda was like " a common courtezan, with eyes red with rage and usquebaugh, tearing off the ornaments her keeper had given her." The most casual observer will not fail to notice the inimitable expression on the features of the distracted Sigismunda ; and though even the mighty genius of Hogarth was baffled in the CLUMBER. 45 endeavour to transfer the look again to canvas, the failure in such a difficult task ought not to detract from the appreciation of his undoubted merits. The small Dining Room, like the small Drawing Room, was turned into a busy workshop after the disastrous fire, and has been restored with a new ceiling. Here are landscapes by Claude Lorraine, a stag hunt by Wouvermans, two masterpieces by Teniers, — the " Brickmakers" and " Cardplaying" ; the " Entombment of Christ" by Vandyke, a portrait by Lely, and paintings by Rembrandt, Van der Meulen, Rosa di Tivoli, Poussin and others. Probably, of all others, the most imposing apartment in the mansion is that where even greater works of the human mind, than those mentioned, are stored, and for which Clumber is justly cele- brated — the Library, 11 Whose gloomy aisles and bending shelves contain For moral hunger food, and cures for moral pain." Its length is 45 ft., with width and height proportion- ate. The capacious shelves contain a great variety of the best home and foreign authors ; and there are many choice copies of scarce works, both letter- press and manuscript. The fittings of the room are of Spanish mahogany, of rare quality, the doors being singularly fine, and the panelled ceiling is richly painted. In this room, again, are some handsome tables and cabinets, of tulip wood, rose wood and other choice grains, mounted with ormolu. Surrounding the apartment is a handsome gallery, with balusters of ormolu ; and the beauti- ful fluted jasper columns, which support the arch in the centre of the room, are worthy of notice. There is also a pair of priceless secretaires, which once belonged to Louis XIV., and a superb statue of Euphrosyne, by Westmacott. In the Study, the most noticeable feature is the elaborate marble chimney piece, which was bought for ^"1500 at the sale at Fonthill Abbey. There are some fine paintings, notably, Nell Gwynn, 46 CLUMBER. Charles I. and Charles II., Louis XV. and his Queen ; also a number of family portraits, in- cluding one by Holbein, of the Countess of Lincoln ; Margaret Cavendish, Duchess of New- castle, by Lely, and Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, by Richardson. In Mr. Cornelius Brown's " Worthies of Nottinghamshire," there is an excellent biography of this accomplished lady, which tells us that she was one of the " most remarkable women of her day, was celebrated alike for her personal charms, her classical attainments, the extent and variety of her information, the skill of her epistolary composition, and the earnestness and vigour with w T hich she threw herself into any cause which aroused her interest and w T on her sympathies." It is believed that Lady Mary was born in the old hall at Thoresby, which was destroyed by fire in 1745, She was an indefatigable student, and fell in love with Mr. Wortley, who was also an excellent scholar. Some family dispute arose, and the Marquis of Dorchester attempted to provide a suitor for his daughter, meanwhile, she eloped with Mr. Wortley, and married him. Subsequently, she led a distin- guished career, was popular at court, and the friend of the literary celebrities of the day. In this room also are six very choice cabinets of buhl, con- taining rare pieces of old china. The various other rooms which the fortunate Visitor will be shown, all correspond with the state apartments in the richness and profusion of their appointments, and the articles of vertu which they contain. There are also in them many family portraits by Gainsborough, Hoare, Holbein, Kneller, and others ; indeed, the whole mansion is a vast picture gallery of examples by the old masters, whilst the furnishings throughout are on a scale commensurate with the dignity of the home of the Dukes of Newcastle. Amongst other objects of attraction are a bas-relief of a Boy and Dolphin, in the Lincoln Hall, and, in one of the corridors, a superb CLUMBER. 47 painting by Rubens, of the Crowning of the Virgin. The Billiard Room with its contents is entirely new, and being situated in a convenient part of the house, affords a pleasant retreat in which the popular game may be indulged. One of the first undertakings which claimed the Duke's attention on attaining his majority, was the building of a new Chapel in place of the former one, which was never used, and which has been recently pulled down. The new sanctuary is de- signed to be one of the most exquisite ecclesiastical structures of modern erection, as will be seen from the following description : — The building of this Chapel was commenced in 1886. Its position, though not exactly the same as that occupied by the former edifice, is but a short distance from it. The site chosen is rather further from the mansion, and is on ground which rises slightly from the lake. The situation is one of an exceedingly beautiful character, sheltered and ornamented as it is by a belt of very fine trees, which cast their broad shadows on the Chapel itself, whilst the terrace, lake, and the distant landscape make a picture that is charming beyond conception. From the east end there is a long stretch of velvety turf, which permits a perfect view of the chancel end. Although the building is designated the Chapel, and is, in fact, the private Chapel of the Duke, it has much of the character of a Collegiate Church. The nave, or western arm of the cross — for the building is cruciform in plan — is of one span, without aisles ; thus bearing the characteristics of a Chapel rather than of a parochial Church. The central tower is to be sur- mounted by a stone spire, with short transepts on the north and south. The choir, it will be noticed, is of considerable length. The whole building is of high, and indeed lofty proportions. The width is not considerable, but much effect is gained by its height. In character, 48 CLUMBER. the building is strictly English ; being of English architecture of the middle of the fourteenth century, and constitutes what is called the " flowing Decorated." The beautiful old Gatehouse at Worksop is of this style. The Nave, Transepts, Tower, Choir, and the South Chapel, are all vaulted in stone ; the Choir being the richest in this respect. Externally the walling is of local white stone ; much belonging to the previous Chapel being utilized. . The interior is all in red Runcorn sand stone. Internally, the edifice, especially the Choir, is to be exceedingly rich in carving, mould- ings, stained glass windows, and other ornamentations. The Chapel will be dedicated to S. Mary the Virgin. The general appearance shows an attempt to reproduce — not without originality of design — the manner of an old English Church of the best period of our national architecture. The architects are Messrs. Bodley and Garner, of Gray's Inn, London ; Mr. Franklin being the builder. Of the grounds and gardens surrounding Clumber, it is impossible to describe them in the small space at disposal, to in any way do justice to their details ; but suffice it to say that refined taste, skill, and money, have combined to make them picturesque and beautiful. The kitchen gardens are situated to the north-east, at some distance from the mansion, and extend over six or seven acres of ground, with about eighteen hot and other houses. The noble Duke is a great lover of Nature. When he is at Clumber, he spends much of his time in the grounds ; and as he is fond of the angler's gentle art, the broad waters of the lake furnish him with congenial sport. It is the sincere wish of all his tenantry, and those in Worksop and neighbourhood who are proud of his ancestors, that the inheritance of his Grace may be long extended, and that every blessing may be his. CLUMBER. 49 Having seen the beauties of Sherwood as ex- emplified in the solid grandeur of Clumber House, containing, as it does, some of the most intrinsic treasures in the world of Art, and surrounded as it is by a matchless combination of natural and artificial adornments, we shall now proceed to point out to Visitors who honour us by taking this book for their guide, the many charming scenes which line the route to Thoresby, the seat of the Right Honorable the Earl Manvers. The two ducal houses (for as it will be seen by our pedigree of the " Dukeries," Thoresby was formerly the seat of the Dukes of Kingston, from whom Lord Manvers is descended), are about three miles apart ; the route lying through some of the most enchanting of woodland scenery. Leaving Clumber House, the road to the right, running almost parallel with the lake, is that which must be taken, and this leads to a symmetrically- construcled bridge of three arches, which spans the lake. From this bridge perhaps the finest view on the whole estate may be had, and here, there- fore, a halt must be made, for the purpose of glancing at the peerless vistas of arboreal beauty, which open before the vision of the ecstatic be- holder. On the left a comprehensive view of Clumber House is accompanied by a delightful panorama of Nature's harmonies. The rich foliage of the trees blends its varied hues as the soft breeze from the lake rustles through the branches, which bow their whispering homage over the margin. The placid waters are now and then thrown into playful ripple by the frightened moor-hen skimming the surface with timid eye. Wafted on the air comes the dainty scent of Flora's perfume ; the quiet solitude of the forest being broken only by the melodious chorus of a thousand birds, fault- less in the purity of their notes, and ceaseless in their mellifluous strains, varied by the startled cry of some of the aquatic birds which frequent this spot, or by the murmuring sound of the adjacent waterfall. CLUMBER. Peering through this matchless scene, and viewing the house, terraces, church, and islands, with the two handsome vessels riding gracefully upon the stretch of peaceful waters beyond — which, from a wide and winding current, has expanded into a handsome lake, extending as far as the eye can reach, until, departing from its straight line, it is lost in the Hardw T ick woods — we cannot wonder that even poets have soared to subJime heights in their vain efforts to describe adequately this most enchanting scene. From the bridge to the right, the lake, which is here completely embosomed in magnificent woods, abounds with waterfowl, conspicuous among w T hich are the majestic snow-plumed swans, gliding along w r ith the gentle flow, or breasting the oppo- sing stream w T ith stately pride and. conscious dignity. But the calm tranquility of the scene must not hold the Tourist captive too long indulging in admiring rhapsodies. Fresh splendours await him on every hand as he pursues his way towards Thoresby, and he will soon have passed " Patrick's Lodge," which adjoins the gates that divide the two estates. T HO R E S B Y EW rural drives present more attractions than that which leads from the Lodge Gates to Thoresby '** House. For about a mile the Tourist will be enam- oured with the forest scenery ; pretty vistas now and then peeping out through the grassy glades. Then he emerges into the Park, with the deer bounding and start- ing at the footfall of the stranger. Whole herds can be distinguished in the horizon gracefully feeding on the rich herbage, while the hawthorn and the mistletoe greet the eye l on every hand. Under the ■— - branches of the giant trees, which everywhere stud the landscape, prize strains of Scotch cattle and Southdown sheep graze in peaceful quietude, and the delic- ious purity of the air lends new vigour to the enjoyment of Nature's beauties. 52 THORESBY. On entering the open Park, the most unobservant cannot but notice the remarkable order yet pristine appearance of the whole demesne, which, indeed, is one of the chief characteristics of this estate. The unstinted, yet discreet hand of the noble owner, the judgment of the steward, and the taste of the gardener are discernible on every side. All that could contribute to the elegance of its appear- ance, and its comfort as a residential mansion, has Thoresby. (From Photo, by G. W. Wilson &> Co.) been brought to bear on the Thoresby establish- ment ; and nowhere in the country, perhaps, is there a more perfect ideal of the abode of a high- minded English nobleman. Whilst it is apparent on every hand that Art has been requisitioned to lend enchantment to natural beauty, yet the latter has not, as is unfortunately too frequently the case, been impeded, or in the least degree shorn of its wondrous charms. Neither does this reference THORESBY, 53 to the happy and considerate care bestowed upon this most magnificent Park and abode, in any way relate to the adjoining forest, where every endeavour is made to maintain the wild features of "merrie Sherwood" in all their ancient beauty. Here Nature is allowed to have her sway. Here one meets with woods all rough and unkempt, with green mossy roots creeping down the loamy banks, and under every root the deep shadow of a rabbit hole ; where yet can be seen the monarch of the forest in all his native grandeur — woods where one gets a whiff of the forest smell, that subtle essence which is so apt to go to the head of the true child of Nature ; that savour of last year's leaves, of this year's buds, of dead branches, of rising sap, of fragrant mosses, of rich earth. Assiduous care is ever manifested by the noble owners that Sher- wood, though sadly shorn of her fair proportions, may yet be preserved in Birkland and Bilhagh in all her primitive beauty and sylvan splendour. These majestic houses situated in the midst of the famous forest, vividly remind us of feudal times, when, beneath the shelter of some mighty chieftain, the industrious villein passed his peaceful life, careless of the turmoil and strife of the busy world. The well-known and sublime stanza of Mrs. Hemans is called to the mind when journeying through this highly-favoured district — "The stately homes of England ! How beautiful they stand, Amidst their tall ancestral trees O'er all the pleasant land ! The deer across their greensward bound Through shade and sunny gleam ; And the swan glides past them with the sound Of some rejoicing stream." Thoresby Park is upwards of twelve miles in circumference ; the north-east ranging to a vanishing point of heather tracts and beech forests. To the east, a velvety slope is crowned by a wood of pines and firs, while to the south and 54 THORESBY. south-west are mighty trees, whose antiquity carries us back to the time of the Crusaders. Now and again the Rufford Hounds make the w r elkin ring with their music, and the noble owners of the mansion hard by have ever been keen followers of the chase in which there is so much exhilarating exercise. In a westerly direction lies the lake, formed by the river Meden, about which streamlet there is a curious fable, to the effect that when a handsome miniature vessel rides peacefully on its crest, that is the one in which Mother Shipton will sail in her voyage over the forest. The margin of the water is skirted by the silvern birch and other trees of gorgeous foliage ; indeed, at every point of the compass, there is something to enchant the lover of rustic scenery. The Mansion which existed in the time of the celebrated Lady Mary Wortley Montagu (whose family history with that of the Pierreponts we have given in our Pedigree of the " Dukeries," and to whom we have also referred in our notice of the Clumber pictures) was destroyed by fire in 1745, when nothing was saved but the writings, plate, and some of the best of the furniture. A house was built on the site of the old one, which twice escaped a similar fate. Describing this second noble erection, Mr. Eddison, in his history of Worksop, says : " It is built of red brick, and its appearance, if less classic, is certainly suggestive of old English comfort — a desideratum, even in the most beautiful scenery. The basement story is of stone, with two stories of brickwork above-; the principal front having a tetrastyle portico of Ionic order in ornament ; the w r indow frames are richly gilt externally. From the entrance hall, a double staircase, surmounted by a dome, leads to the principal rooms, and a very rich effect is produced by a light entering upon it through windows, yellow-stained. In the east entrance hall, is an interesting representation in chiaro-oscuro of the Grecian Horse before the walls of Troy, — soldiers THORESBY. 55 descending into their place of concealment, (its capacious body) by means of an opening in the back, thus to surprise the city that had so nobly stood its 10 years' siege There is also a portrait and a bust of the patriot Pascal Paoli, the celebrated Corsican, who, after gallantly asserting his country's rights, first against the Genevese, and then the French, was drawn by Louis XV. of France from his native land, and found an hospi- table and peaceful retreat at Thoresby, with his friend, the Duke of Kingston. The portrait is in the octagonal drawing room — a noble apartment — richly hung with crimson damask, looking upon the pleasant glades of the old forest. The rooms are well furnished, and in the dining room is a recess, divided from it by four elegant pillars, spirally fluted with gilt capitals." Such was the old hall, which for about a century and a quarter, withstood the ravages of the hand of time. When the present noble earl succeeded to the estates, he formed the laudable intention of erecting on the site of this old structure, a statelier, more durable and more magnificent abode. The dwelling of brick was taken down, and in its place has arisen the beautiful mansion of Steetley stone, which now forms one of. the best-designed and most interesting habitations of the many wonder- inspiring palatial residences in our much-beloved country. The exterior of the house prepossesses the Visitor with its light and handsome appear- ance combined with the symmetry of its pro- portions. Its details are delicate, and finished with rare skill. It was built from well-drawn designs by Mr. A. Salvin, and his ideas have been well executed by a firm of London builders. The front on the east measures 180 feet, while the west front is 159 feet, and the south front 182 feet wide. The principal entrance is approached through some massive w T rought-iron gates, manufactured at Birmingham. Gaining the entrance hall, 5 6 THORESBY. a striking feature is the effedl of the beautiful encaustic tiles from Germany, with which the floor is laid. The walls are ornamented with various ancient weapons of war, and spoils of the gun and chase. Stags' heads and antlers likewise adorn the sides of the Staircase which leads to the Grand Hall ; a noteworthy object being the head of a magnificent specimen of the Irish Elk, whose antlers measure 10 feet from point to point. A large painting of the Bataille de Par me, 1734, de- scriptive of the army then engaged, and commanded by Marshal the Due de Coigny, will attract atten- tion. After ascending two flights of steps, the Grand Hall, measuring 65 by 31 feet, by 48 feet high, is reached. The floor is of oak, grown in the adjoining forest, and skilfully laid in an appropriate pattern, with a parqueterie border. The hammer beam roof is also imposing. The w r alls are of Steetley stone, and the dado which is six feet high, is of light and dark oak. An immense Chimney Piece of elaborate design stands out prominently as an interesting feature in this spacious hall. It is of Steetley stone, with columns of granite, and is surmounted by a colossal representation in carved stone of the family arms. An airy look of newness pervades the hall, which has deserved the admiration of the tourists — numerous as the visitors' book will testify — who have had the pleasure of entering it. The most striking feature, perhaps, in this magnificent apartment consists of the admirably-arranged collection of suits of armour, ancient weapons, including some genu- ine old Scotch claymores, a number of swords taken from the French at Strasbourg, and burnished bayonets, all appropriately disposed upon the walls, and reminding one of the strife and din of battle. On the east end wall are two very fine speci- mens of Stags' heads. These were taken from two huge animals which were discovered near the lake engaged in a most furious and sanguinary combat, and whose antlers having become entangled and THORESBY. 57 fixed, were eventually both drowned in the lake. Two fine marble busts, chastely and delicately chiselled, of two of the Countess Manvers' ancestors, Francois de Franquetot and Henri de Franquetot, Dues de Coigny — the latter Gouvemeur des Invalides, Paris, in 1821 — will attract attention. Some green marble figures from Italy are likewise worthy of notice. The fortunate Visitor would fain linger longer in this truly unique hall with its pictures, beautiful old carved Indian and Old English furniture, and its numerous and costly cabinets and curiosities. These embellishments, as also the whole of the furniture and fittings, are in strict harmony with the Norman character of the hall. Its proportions are altogether of a most noble and imposing description. The apartment contains several family portraits of illustrious ancestors, notably, Francois de Franquetot, Marechal de Coigny, and Lady Mary Wortley Montagu. On the north side, is a fine stained glass window, of three lights, bearing respectively the arms and monograms of the families of Manvers, King- ston and De Coigny. At the extremity of the hall is a grand staircase, the steps being of Roche Abbey stone, with an exquisite wrought-iron railing. On the landing is a grand painting of Charles I. on horseback, both figures being of life-size. This staircase leads to a handsome gallery, upon which open the upper apartments of the house. The Dining Room is 40 ft. by 26 ft., and 20 ft. high. It is admirably lighted by a bay window looking east, and another south. The handsome walnut pannelling, and the geometric figures with which the ceiling is decorated, add richness and variety to the appearance of the saloon. The upper part is surrounded by a deep and beautiful frieze. There is a capacious sideboard from the Due de Coigny's, in addition to two other side- boards, all very massive, richly carved, and of exquisite workmanship. Contained in this room are some good examples of the works of modern 58 THORESBY. painters, including portraits of Earl Manvers as Colonel of the South Notts. Yeomanry, of the Countess, in a white satin dress, and of Evelyn, first Duke of Kingston, and his Duchess ; also pictures by Creswick and Ansdel, Vicat Cole and Melbey. Passing through the Small Drawing Room, the deep red satin damask hangings cannot fail to draw- forth admiration. The panels of the doors are of polished bird's-eye maple, and the artistic treatment of the ceiling and frieze is of the most delicate character. A recently-painted portrait of Viscount Newark, m.p., — an excellent likeness — hangs in this room, as well as paintings of Viscountess Newark, and of Lady Beauchamp. The stately appointments of the Library, and the quietude which pervades its precincts, proclaim that here are kept, for the perusal of the studious members of the family, the choicest works of litera- ture, most handsomely bound. It is a room 44 ft. by 25 ft., with panelling of oak. The first object of striking import is the magnificent chimney piece, which is certainly of a most beautiful and chaste description. It consists of an elaborately-carved representation, in Birkland oak, of a scene in Sher- wood Forest, in which are introduced the venerable " Major" oak, with his knotted and gnarled branches, a foreground of botanical specimens, and a herd of deer — all chiselled with much simili- tude to Nature. This monument of patience and abilit}^ was cut by Mr. Robinson, of Newcastle ; the wood being from an oak which once flourished in the forest in which the leading feature in the subject forms so proud an ornament. Statuettes of Robin Hood and Little John support each side of the piece, which is nearly 15 feet high, and 10 feet wide. A parqueterie border 2 feet wide is around the floor, upon which are Indian carpets. Like many other of the rooms in the mansion, the ceiling is adorned with an attractive design and frieze. Extensive and pleasing views of the terraces, THORESBY. 59 lake, and distant landscape are obtained from a large octagonal window which this room possesses. The grand Drawing Room is next worthy of de- scription. It is an apartment of noble proportions, being 53 ft. by 25 ft., and decorated with all the taste and skill which wealth, culture and ability can command. The covering of the walls is blue satin damask with floral figurings of silver grey, tapestry hangings, and a white and gold frieze. From the richly-coffered ceiling of pink, blue and gold, scintillations of light sparkle and glitter on the crystal pendants of the magnificent chandeliers, causing a very brilliant and dazzling effedt. Most of the furniture of the room is richly carved and gilded, and is covered with what forms perhaps the chief feature in this unique apartment — old tapestry of surpassing beauty and intrinsic worth. Other portions of the furniture are upholstered to match their surroundings ; the covers being beauti- fully embroidered in silk, whilst silk and velvet drape some of the gilded ornaments. The mantle- pieces in this saloon are of snow-white statuary marble, having as ornaments designs representing the four seasons. Besides some exquisite specimens of blue Sevres china, there is a handsome vase, mounted on a pedestal, which the Empress Eugenie, when in the zenith of her power and popularity, presented to the Countess Man vers, in 1854, a superb old Dresden china clock mounted on a small buhl cabinet, and a large and handsome buhl cabinet on massive gilt stand. On every hand rare and costly embellishments add splendour to this handsome apartment. At the west-end are two fine water-colour drawings, depicting respectively Scotch cattle in the park, and a hunting scene in Sherwood Forest, by Frederick Taylor. Russian maple, satin wood, walnut wood and oak have been used in the solid fittings of the room. These superb adornments, together with some excellent portrait paintings, the exceedingly choice Indian carpets, and everything in strict mutual 6o THORESBY. harmony, tend to form as charming a resort as can well be found in an}^ of our " stately English homes." The walls of the corridors which lead to the upper rooms, are ornamented with some exceed- ingly choice old Spanish tapestry. Some handsome and valuable carved antique book-cases and other objects of interest are likewise to be seen here. The Countess' Boudoir is, as might well be expected, the daintiest room in the house. The pannelling of the walls consists of Aubusson tapestry, and the mantle-piece, which appears to be a relic of some Italian palace, is of white marble. Figures of Cupid are prominent features amongst the orna- ments. The room is further enriched by some fine specimens of old blue Sevres china, and a choice inlaid-wood and carved cabinet, with portrait of a lady in Sevres china on its front. The furniture is covered with silk and tapestry, worked in the most delicate manner. Indeed, the room wears an air of elegance and refinement which could only be imparted to it by such a lady as the Countess Manvers, who, when not on some errand of sympathetic charity, spends much of her time in this charming boudoir. The fine Billiard Room, with table of pollard oak, the Garden Entrance, and other rooms are all on a similar scale of magnificence. In the Mansion there are about sixty bedrooms, to many of which dressing rooms are attached. Some delightful landscape views are obtained from many of the windows. The sunbeams glimmer on the silvery lake, which covers sixty-five acres, and the charming terraces and pleasure grounds most tastefully laid out with winding walks, orna- mental flower beds, etc., are of great beauty, whilst across the broad expanse of park and forest, a frightened herd of antlered stags, timid hinds and little graceful fawns may often be seen fleeting its way. Dotted about at intervals are clusters of trees clothed in the most luxuriant foliage, whilst the magnificent woods in the horizon 62 THORESBY. from a background which completes a picture of surpassing loveliness. To the east are situated the gardens, which extend over 8f acres, and include numerous green- houses and forcing beds. The Stabling is a model of what a well- arranged establishment of this kind should be, — everything in keeping with that order which is such a striking feature on the whole estate. A large range of workshops, fitted with the most improved machinery, and employing a staff of skilled artizans, is situate about half a mile from the house. These furnish almost all that is re- quired in woodwork on the Thoresby estate. Gas is likewise manufactured on the premises, and every practical modern invention has been taken advantage of to make the residence worthy of its exemplary owner. On leaving Thoresby, we cross the river Meden by a pretty bridge w T hich will attract the attention of the Visitor owing to its being completely em- bosomed in most luxuriant foliage. Indeed, such sylvan profusion is rarely to be met with. BUDBY. EHILE at Thoresby, the Tourist is strongly advised to pay a visit to the charming little ^g»gHK^t village of Budby, about a mile and a half distant. Here, in this half-hidden locality, will be found a thriving contented village, the cottages of which are designed as a copy of Swiss architecture, and suggest the ideal of village comfort and beauty. Horti- culture and agriculture flourish in this rural spot. The neat and pretty gardens surrounding the cottages are models of their kind, and are celebrated for the luxuriance and profusion of their floral displays. To be secluded from the " madding crowd n the meditative stranger could find no gentler resort in which to admire the beauties of Nature. Amid a paradise of pastoral loveliness, the rippling gurgling little river Meden wends its way, imparting an additional charm to the forest glades. To the north of Budby is a vast prairie, whose delicate tints of gold-hued gorse, purple heather and vernal green glow in the summer sunlight. The lover of Nature's charms may well forget the gaudy tinsel of the town, while he walks as in a trance, surrounded by a scene of primeval glory. There is much however to see by taking a southerly direction, and as 11 1 know each lane and every alley green, Dingle or bushy dell of this wild wood, And every bosky bower from side to side," the pleasure-seeker shall be guided to the most popular places in " Merrie Sherwood." BIRKLAND AND BILHAGH. LEASING and beautiful as are the various features of those portions of the famous forest already de- scribed, none will afford so much ^pleasure to the majority of visitors as will that with which we have now to deal. After passing through the "Buck Gates," the Visitor enters that portion of Sherwood Forest known gp as Birkland and Bilhagh. The district bearing these names is full of interest to the historical student, as well as to him who fond of contemplating the loveliness of country life. Birk- land, with the adjoining woods of Bilhagh, was granted by the Crown to the Duke of Portland in exchange for the perpetual advowson of St. Mary- le-bone. The former still belongs to his Grace of Portland, but Bilhagh, lying nearer the Thoresby estate, was exchanged to Earl Manvers for estates at Holbeck and Bonbusk, in the vicinity of Welbeck Abbey. Though but little of the old forest of Sherwood now remains in anything like its original magnficence, there is yet extant in Birkland and BIRKLAND AND BILHAGH. 6 5 Bilhagh a grand old fragment, standing as a monument of what Sherwood once was, and con- stituting probably the finest specimen of ancient forest to be found in the kingdom. In a direct line with Bilhagh lies Birkland, so called from the large number of birch trees that are intermingled with the oaks. The district which bears these names contain- ed 49,909 oaks in 1609, but the woodman's axe and Time's scythe had felled 27,000 of these before 1790. Birkland and Bilhagh together form a tract of forest which is probably but little altered in general aspect since Robin Hood and his merrie men roamed through its sylvan solitudes, hunting the king's deer, and making the . pockets of wandering bishops, abbots and monks lighter and easier of carriage — as tradition saith to relieve the poor and succour the distressed ! Speaking of this pleasant region, William Howitt says : — There were also several woodwards for every township within the forest, and one for every principal wood. It had also five 'hays' or royal parks, each fenced in and furnished with its lodge, and having each a forester, going his rounds on horseback with a page, and two foresters on foot without a page. These ' hays' were Best- wood, Linbyhay, Welhay, Birkland-cum-Bilhay and Clypstone. They were specially preserved for the royal use Bilhaghe is a forest of oaks, and is clothed with the most im- pressive aspect of age that can perhaps be presented to the eye in these kingdoms. Stonehenge does not give you a feeling of greater ' eld', because it is not composed of material so easily acted on by the elements." " A thousand years, ten thousand tempests, lightnings, winds, and wintry violence, have all flung their utmost force on these trees, and there they stand, trunk after trunk, scathed, hollow, grey, 66 BIRKLAND AND BILHAGH. ~riL*^h£!*'i±J±4L- -> - ^liBicii-'Jiiii ^lii Co.) rf^v. ~'^ *^s£„ *►• is grey and old. gnarled ; stretch- ing out their bare sturdy arms, or ? J V - - ; their mingled foli- '-Lf?~' _ ___..v age and ruin — a life in death. All The ground is grey beneath, the trees are grey with clinging lichens, the very heather and ferns that spring beneath them have a character of the past. If you turn aside and step amongst them, your feet sink in a depth of moss and dry vegetation that is the growth of ages, or rather that ages have not been able to destroy. You stand and look round, and in the height of summer, all is silent ; it is like the fragment of a world worn out and forsaken. These were the BIRKLAND AND BILHAGH. 67 trees under which King John pursued the red deer 600 years ago. These were the oaks beneath which Robin Hood led up his bold band of out- laws. These are the oaks which have stood while king after king reigned ; while the Edwards and Henrys subdued Ireland, and ravaged Scotland and France ; while all Europe was seeking to rescue Jerusalem from the Saracens ; while the wars of York and Lancaster deluged the soil of all this kingdom with blood ; while Henry VIII. overthrew popery, wives, ministers, and martyrs with one strong, ruthless hand ; while Elizabeth, with an equal hand, of unshrinking might and decision, made all Europe tremble at a woman's name, and stand astonished at a woman's jealously, when she butchered her cousin, the Queen of Scots. Here they stood, while the monarchy of England fell to the ground before Cromwell and the Covenanters ; while Charles II., restored to his realm, but not to wisdom, revealed ; while under a new dynasty the fortunes of England have been urging through good and evil their course to a splendour and dominion strangely mingled with suffering and dis- quiet, yet giving prospect of a Christian glory beyond all precedent and conception." " There is no end to the variety of their aspect and grouping. From the sylvan loveliness around you, you might fancy yourself in the outer wilder- ness of some Armida's garden. In spring, these woods are all alive with the cawing of jackdaws, which build in thousands in the hollow oaks ; and as their bustle ceases as the evening falls, the nightingales are heard, and the owl and dor-hawk come soaring through the dusky air." The indefatigable Major Rooke, a resident in the locality, published descriptions of some re- markable trees growing in the hays of Birkland and Bilhagh, and which when felled were found to have cut or stamped on their bodies letters marking the king's reign. One had the letters "J. R." (Jacobus Rex); another " W. M." (William and 68 BIRKLAND AND BILHAGH. Mary) and a crown; and a third the letters "Jn." (John) with a crown. The first were equidistant, a foot from the surface and centre of the tree. The second, 3 feet 3 inches from the centre, and 9 inches from the bark ; and the remaining one 18 inches from the surface, and more than 1 foot from the centre. The letters were, it is thought, carved on the wood, bare of bark, and the follow- ing and successive years' growths of wood over- lapped, without adhering, and so preserved them. Their positions, so far from the surface, proved their genuineness, and their respective depths are believed to correspond with the different reigns in which they would seem to have been cut. The last one must have been planted 100 years, at the least, before John's reign ; making it 706 years old when felled in 1791. The botanist is enabled to read off the age of a tree with considerable accuracy. In passing the section of a trunk which has been cut down, let the reader observe a series of white rays round the central pith. By the scientist these are called medullary rays, and by the carpenter silver grain. A series of ring-like forms, concentric one within the other, will also be observed in the section, which proves that the trunk was generated by continued depositions of woody matter, round a central line. The thickness corresponding with one ring is indicative of one year's growth. The formation of an oak tree is therefore seen to be the deposition of external layers of woody fibre. Some of these ancient oaks, split and hollow, blasted and lightning-smitten, yet put out their foliage in the most luxuriant profusion, whilst others, sorely stricken by age and decay, appear as though striving to keep even a semblance of their giant forms in their prostrate condition. Here may be seen one which, having braved the buffeting of a thousand storms, has its massive bark still vigorous and covering not only its exterior, but growing upwards, and extending over the inner part of the BIRKLAND AND BILHAGH. 69 crust of the tree, so as to double the means of arresting decay and invigorating life — one of the many illustrations of the universal struggle in Nature with the forces of death. There, another old oak, with little left but the outer crust, but having in its hollow a vigorous stem, which, in- stead of growing up and spreading out like the other branches of the tree has bent down from its upper part and taken root inside the trunk, and is thus actually supporting, like a dutiful son, his aged sire. Others in the prime of life may be seen with stout stems, and shoots of holly rising out of the trunk from the centre of their many branches, and spreading themselves among them, so as in the winter to flaunt their green leaves amid the nakedness of the mighty oak — a Regent, sufficiently demonstrative, but puny and unimposing. Turning into the deep shadow of the forest, the Visitor finds himself at once in a realm un- known to ordinary experience, and which has been described so ably, and in so pleasing a style by January Searle : " Few persons unaccustomed to observe Nature in her ancient hiding-places, would credit the singular transformations which the oaks of Bilhagh have, in many instances, undergone. It would be quite possible to make a new heraldry from the strange emblematic devices which have been carved upon them by the invisible fingers of the elements. Dragons, crocodiles' heads, serpents, glaring basilisks, kraken, and monstres of an unknown birth, surmount the capitols of the old trees, or grin under their barkless ribs. You are literally shut out, in this part of the Forest, from all signs of civilization, and seem to stand in a 'strange solemn,' and old universe.' Over you hang the azure vaults of immensity ; and under your feet how many worlds lie buried ! " "The decayed ferns in some places form a soil which is yards in depth, and the surface is covered with mosses in beautiful variety, and studded with bluebells, violets, foxgloves, and other sweet wild 7 o BIRKLAND AND BILHAGH. flowers, in their appointed seasons. In the spring, whilst the ferns lie dead and yellow around you, and the oaks are blanched and leafless, the solitude is broken by rooks and jackdaws building their nests in the hollow bowls of the trees, and waving their dusky pennons to the music of their own cawing ; or if some tiny bird flits through the colossal ruins of the forest, it is only to utter mournful themes or sad melancholy pipings. The rooks and daws are the only winged creatures (save the night owls) which have any claim to habitancy in this old primeval temple. But as the warm days come on, and May returns to earth, like a bride laden with flowers, there is a universal joy- ousness in the old Forest ; the mighty oaks, with centuries in their blood, seem to leap up into life, and clap their ancient hands with a great shout of deliverance and praise. The gorse, dropping with gold and delicious odours, flourishes under the wide foliage of the trees ; the fiery adders come from their w T inter holes and sun themselves in the glades, and the whole forest resounds with the melody of birds. At night, when the shadows cast by the moon enhance the solemnity of the scene, and fill it with ghostly witcheries and wonderful enchantments, you may hear the love-lorn song of the nightingale, rushing through the starry air from the far-off dells of Birkland, and dying away in sweet cadence as it is borne along from echo to echo. The hares and rabbits then come out of the dingles and thick entangled underwood, to crop the dewy herbage, and gambol in the silence and security of the hour ; and as you walk along, the startled pheasant rushes to the tree tops with heavy wing and shrill cries." " The reader must not suppose that this is any ordinary region ; or that he can see the like of it in Epping, or in any of the other ancient forests. I have been in the back woods of the American continent, and have seen man}' noble i green-robed senators' of the forest in England, but I never BIRKLAND AND B1LHAGH. 71 knew what a tree was until I beheld the giants of Sherwood." After breathing the balmy zephyr and listening to the rapturous song of the birds of the air, re- velling in the wild enjoyment of their unrestrained freedom, let us make the best of our way to the " Queen" Oak, or as it is more popularly termed the "MAJOR" OAK. Here is the mighty monarch of the forest, — a really splendid specimen, of huge dimensions — stand- ing along in all his majestic grandeur, as though Mother earth had expended her virtue in rearing this mighty prodigy through the hoary years of centuries. There he stands at the intersection of the forest roads, throwing out his broad branches as in the acl: of protecting the Tourist from the burning rays of the sun. The trunk measures 32 feet in circumference above the roots, 30 feet round the base at 5 feet high, while the diameter covered by the boughs is 240 feet. Notwithstanding its network of leafy branches the bole is quite hollow for a diameter of 7 feet, with a height of 15 feet. Probably this tree is one of the oldest and most perfect in the country, and cannot fail to draw forth the reverent admiration of strangers who respect its venerable antiquity and appreciate its noble proportions. The roots of this monster spread over a circumference of ninety feet, grasping the ground with a mighty grip, as though resolved to bear his fifty arms majestically and proudly till the crack of doom. Outrageous thunder, stormy winds and rain, Discharge their fury on his head in vain ; Earthquakes below, and lightning from above, Rend not his trunk, nor his fix'd root remove. Many have been the scenes of jollity and mirth within the shadow of the "Major" Oak. A dozen can enter the hollow trunk at once, and if it is a very gleeful party of youthful Tourists, the girls, on emerging from the cavern, have been known to KM 72 B IRELAND AND B1LHAGH. be subjected to a kiss from the more ungovernable members of the company. The only foundation for exacting this tribute, so far as we can discover, is the old ballad which says — "There never came maid to the greenwood tree But paid the forester's bounty fee." The 'Major' w r as so unfortunate as to lose one of his giant arms during a recent storm, but the loss is scarcely discernible, so profuse is the foliage of his immense crown. Before journeying to other remarkable trees which w T e shall notice in the order of our travels, let us take a look at the eminently-pretty Saxon village of EDWINSTOWE, distant but a few minutes' walk. This delightful village, according to tradition, is the resting place of the remains of Edwin, King of Northumbria, who was killed about the year 633. There is a fine old Norman church in the village, w r ith an elegant and lofty spire rising up heavenwards over the graves of the old foresters. The position of the tomb of the slain king is said to be occupied by the Parish Church. Without doubt, the village existed in the days of the Heptarchy, as its name is unmistakably Saxon. The cottages in this little rural spot present a praiseworthy appearance — neat and comfortable, with pretty flower gardens, and ornamental plants in striking luxuriance. Both here and at Ollerton there is excellent accommodation for Visitors, both as regards hotels and private apartments, and good stabling is likewise to be had. Within a short distance of Edwinstowe, in a westerly direction, is the " Simon Forester" Oak, another gigantic specimen of forest growth. About a mile-and-a-half further, in the same direction, stands the " Butchers' Shambles" Oak, or " Robin Hood's Larder" wherein, according to local tradi- BIRKLAND AND BILHAGH. 73 tion, Robin Hood hung his prime joints of venison, and which still bears the requisite hooks. Without desiring to deprive these sylvan monarchs of their legitimate legendary lore, this popular belief has probably emanated from the fact of its having been used as a place of concealment for stolen mutton slaughtered in the forest by a notorious sheep stealer, who lived hard by. The Visitor now takes a ride of about five miles over velvety turf, and amidst the most luxuriant of forest scenery it is possible to desire. He is on his way to Welbeck, and may completely resign himself to the enjoyment which the ever-changing landscape of sylvan beauty affords. Passing a picturesque Russian log cottage, which is used by the noble owner as a shooting box in the season, we hurry along the grass} 7 avenues, with now and then a graceful bend opening a long perspective arched with the boughs of the forest giants, lined with the bright hues of a thousand of Nature's choicest rareties, and fringed with a sea of waving bracken, ferns, and forest undergrowth. The Visitor may well be excused if he have a desire to linger longer, or mani- fest no unseemly haste to depart, as at frequent intervals he shows a disposition to disagree with the worthy coachman — whose views are sometimes fash- ioned in accordance with the demands of this age of short cuts to knowledge, and, indeed, a hasty scramble through everything, and in which perfunctory manner it has become customary to take our recreation — for Nature is here in her most attractive garb, and all surrounding tends to fascinate and make one feel contented here to stay. Here the graceful birches, whose golden tresses and silvery stems shimmer in the sunlight, are mingled in the happiest confusion with sturdy and rugged oaks, presenting a striking and charming contrast of form and foliage. The bluebell and the foxglove, and a host of wild flowers, are scattered about amongst an ocean of verdure, whilst 74 BIRKLAND AND BILHAGH. Flora's gems now and again grace the pathway. But we must hie away, for more woodland glories await us to admire as we pass over the broad sweep of elastic greensward, along Sherwood's emerald glades, continually admiring the charming vistas which here and there open out to view. Anon we breathe the sweet perfume of the honeysuckle as it twines its creeping stem round the contorted trunk of some stalwart hawthorn, or perhaps the subtle fragrance of the wild briar crosses our path. Pursuing our way along these sylvan solitudes, we shall shortly arrive at Gleadthorpe Lodge, and after crossing the road, we proceed again along green glades environed with woodlands of intense luxuri- ance. Here the ground rises gently, until, sud- denly emerging into the open, and being situated on a considerable eminence, we have presented to us a glorious panorama. Immediately in front is a comprehensive view of Welbeck Park, with the lakes in the foreground, and on whose surface the glittering rays of the summer sun are reflected. Thousands of deer, cattle and sheep are seen across the broad expanse of park feeding on the rich herb- age, or seeking shelter under the numerous groups of umbrageous oaks. To the left are the hills of Derbyshire, whilst to the right the majestic woods of old Sherwood complete a picture of indescribable beauty. As many Tourists find it advantageous whilst at Edwinstowe to visit Rufford Abbey and other places of interest within easy distance, we deem it desirable to deal with these before proceed- ing to notice the wonders of Welbeck. OLLERTON, On the river Maun, is a small market town about a mile-and-a-half from Edwinstowe. The Mark- hams, an ancient Nottinghamshire family formerly resided here. There is a chapel-of-ease ; and a BIRKLAND AND BILHAGH. 75 headstone in the chapel-yard to Francis Thompson, 1739, bearing a quaint inscription, is worthy of notice. Cockglode, the residence of Cecil George Savile Foljambe, Esq., is situated about half-a-mile from the village. RUFFORD ABBEY. |WO miles south-west of Ollerton lies Rufford Abbey, the former residence of the late Mr. Augustus William Savile, who died at Cannes, and was buried in the family vault at Bilsthorpe on the 22nd of April, 1887. Of the memory of Mr. Savile, a writer in the Constitutional Magazine said, "the good old County of Nottingham has every reason to be proud. In the company of princes, as the introducer of ambassadors, he was pro- nounced the very glass of fashion, and the most polished courtier in Europe. The London world submitted to his sway, and for nearly half a century no great social function was complete without his presence. He went from Christchurch to the 2nd Life Guards, and he was the chosen councillor of every great hostess in Belgravia and Mayfair." The Villa Edelweiss, at Cannes, was a beautiful continental residence belonging to Mr. Savile. During Her Majesty's visit to Cannes, she occupied this charming villa, which was placed at her dis- posal by the deceased, who removed to Mezzomonte. During the autumn of 1886, the Prince of Wales was entertained at Rufford in magnificent fashion, and the occasion will long be remembered by residents in the locality for the festivities which then took place. At the funeral of the late accomplished gentleman and courtier, the Queen and RUFFORD ABBEY. 77 the Prince and Princess of Wales each forwarded a handsome wreath. Numerous authorities tell us that there was once a monastery at Rufford, but the cowled monk with sandalled foot has long since passed away, and instead of the grey old Abbey, with its lofty towers and Gothic beauty, we have a comfortable and capacious baronial residence. The ancient plan of the conventual buildings has almost been obliterated by the alterations of successive owners, but during the restoration by one of the Earls of Scarborough, an ancient crypt was discovered be- neath the hall, and the unmistakable style of its architecture proclaimed at once that the present building occupies the veritable site of the once famous Rufford Abbey. We are still well within the ancient boundaries of the far-stretching forest. Nature still continues to employ her vast resources in producing sturdy oaks and stately beeches, — still adorns the landscape with the most delicate tints of foliage, — and the quietness of this rural haunt is only broken by the singing of the birds or the cry of alarm which takes its place when the advent of a stranger excites their fears. " This place hath often entertained King James and King Charles his son" says the quaint Dr. Thoroton ; and it is easy to understand how the sporting tastes of the monarchs would soon discern the admirable qualities of Rufford wherewith to indulge their proclivities. Amongst other royal personages it may be mentioned that George IV., as Prince of Wales, slept there in a tapestry bedroom, which is still called after him. The Lumley family, into whose hands Rufford Abbey passed, was one of the few Saxon families which were not completely swept from the scroll of fame by the Norman invasion. An ancestor of theirs was named Adam de Lumley, and in con- nection with this name a humorously dry anecdote is told of our Scotch king James I. One of the Lumleys entertained him. at Lumley Castle, 78 RUFFORD ABBEY. Durham, and was explaining the family genealogy, " And the head of this branch was Adam de Lumley," said the proud descendant. " Haud, haud mon," said the King in his broadest accent, " In gude faith it may be a' verra true, but I didna ken before that Adam's name was Lumley." By the survival of members of this ancient family we see how strong must have been their affection for their Mother country to have lived through the rigorous period of the Norman conquest, the bloody wars of the Roses, and the civil strife which overturned Monarchy and uprooted families in the revolution of 1649. Ulf, the Saxon, held the Manor of Rugforde, but the Conqueror gave the lands to his nephew, Gilbert de Gaunt. His son married Matilda of Britanny, and their son married the Countess of Lincoln, and was himself advanced to the Earldom of Lincoln. The foundation of the Abbey com- menced with this Earl in 1148, and a society of Cistercian, or white monks, from the Yorkshire Abbey of Rivaulx was located here. The early Plantagenet kings granted several privileges to the monks, who were allowed to take whatever was necessary for them from the forest. If we accept Sir Walter Scott's word for the manner in which these rural saints interpreted their privileges, we may take it for granted that venison and feathered game often graced the festive board. Like the other religious houses in the land, Henry VIII. placed his royal hand upon the monastic colony, and since that time the renown of Rufford as an ecclesiastical establishment has been on the wane. At its dissolution, according to Dugdale's Monasticon, there were 15 canons inhabiting it, with an annual revenue from lands in the surrounding villages of ^"176 12s. 6d. Henry settled the lands of Thomas Doncaster, the last abbot, upon George, Earl of Shrewsbury and Waterford. It was there- fore the occasional residence of the celebrated Countess of Hardwick, who here effected one of RUFFORD ABBEY. 79 those matches between two high contracting parties, which have made their names so famous in fashionable history. Sir George Savile married a granddaughter of the Earl of Shrewsbury, and their descendant assisting in the restoration of Charles II., was re- warded with the title of Marquis of Halifax. In 1700 the Marquisate became extinct, and the last Sir George Savile gave RufTord to the son of his sister, the Countess of Scarborough. Respecting the intention of the donor, a lawsuit took place as to the alleged limitation that the estate should be left to a younger branch. The eighth Earl of Scarborough and Baron Lumley, who possessed RufTord, died in 1856, upon which he was succeeded by Mr. Henry Savile. He died in 1881, and was succeeded by his brother, Mr. Augustus William Savile, upon whose death, in 1887, Sir John Lumley Savile came into the estates. On the western side, the Abbey is approached by an avenue of tall limes, and in the beautifully- wooded grounds there is a broad lake, flanked by plantations. A grand gateway w T hich adorns the entrance, was placed there by the eighth Earl of Scarborough, who also restored the Brick Hall, in which is an open roof and carved oak screen inscribed with the words " Murus aeneus conscientia sana" — the family motto — " a sound conscience is a wall of brass." This hall takes its name from the polished red brick of the floor. The furniture and surround- ings of the apartment present a strange admixture of the ancient and modern. Rich carvings and Elizabethan tracery are suggestive of the revival of English Art, while numerous other articles de luxe unmistakably point to the refinement of the nine- teenth century. The mantlepiece is of Caen stone, upon which are the family arms. The Earl effected many other improvements, completely transforming RufTord from its ancient character. In the Servants' Hall there are marks that lead to the supposition that it was formerly the refectory of the Abbey, but the appointments of the 8o RUFFORD ABBEY. whole of the interior of the house have been very much changed at various periods. The Long Gallery, measuring 114 ft. by 36 ft., is the principal apartment, and has frequently been used for private theatricals. In it there is a handsome carved chimney-piece, and several fine pictures. Here is a portrait of Lady Gertrude Pierrepont, wife of the first Marquis of Halifax, whose features have also been transferred to canvas, and are represented on the walls. Some artist, whose fancy has led him to dream of what the old Abbey was in its palmy days, has tried to paint it as it was, and this production hangs here. The Drawing Room is a luxurious saloon, furnished with the rarest taste that the education of modern times can cultivate. The walls are adorned with panels of pale crimson satin, and ornamented with floral designs in silver. The choicest woods have been used in the manufacture of the furniture, and the splendid and costly cabinets which are placed here and there about the room give an indication of the taste of the owner. The Library is a capacious hall, in which is stored a valuable collection of books ; the modern novel having no smalJ space allotted to its accommoda- tion. What w r as once the Billiard Room, is now called the study. Its proportions are fine, and it contains numerous family portraits on the walls. Under that of Lady Savile, daughter of Lord Coventry, keeper of the Great Seal in Charles I. reign, are the words " Her spirit was equalled only by her piety and goodness *of heart." It need hardly be said that this lady was a faithful adherent to the Royal cause. The upper rooms are, perhaps, as pleasing to inspect as any portion of the house. Many of the bed chambers are hung with sumptuous tapestry, upon which are worked scenes in Biblical history. The state bedroom which was once the resting place of George IV., is hung with yellow silk, and contains one or two excellent oil paintings. In every part of the RUFFORD ABBEY. house pictures are hung, but the greatest prize among them is "The Boar Hunt," % by Snyders, adorning the grand staircase. From the windows of the numerous rooms charming vistas of woodland scenery open out before the admiring spectator ; and the quietude of the situation imparts an in- expressible feeling of awe and admiration, as the thought of the once noble Abbey gives place to that of the splendours of modern RufTord. When George IV. was at RufTord, Dibdin, senior, the famous ballad writer, was master of the ceremonies, and the felling of one of the stately trees of the forest suggested to him the melody of the "Wood- man's Stroke." THE PALATIAL RUINS OF CLIPSTONE. ESglSTANT about 2 miles from Edwinstowe is the quiet little village of Clipstone, where is situ- ^ ated the celebrated farm on the estate of the Duke of Portland. Here will be found the ruins of what is called King John's Palace. Without doubt, it was a favourite hunting resort of King John, who dated several of his charters from that place. No wonder that what might once have been a noble mansion, furnished in sumptuous style, fit for the reception of a king, should have crumbled to decay, for in all probability it was built by one of the kings of Northumbria, about the sixth century. Its Saxon origin is still denoted by some stones, moss-grown and weather-beaten, bearing the name of the chapel of St. Edwin — all that remain of the erstwhile sacred pile. Tradition says that it was near Clipstone that Richard Coeur de Lion, becoming accidentally separated from his followers, was surrounded by Robin Hood and his famous band of outlaws. Questioned by the stout-hearted stalwart monarch, Robin, attired in his usual suit of Lincoln green, revealed his incognito to the king, telling him that he and his bold companions were there to do homage to his majesty. This pleased the king so much that he invited him to Westminster, whither it is said the daring outlaw went. But of such old-world tales where can the lover of half-romance, CLIPSTONE PALACE. 83 half- fact, be better entertained than in the matchless "Ivanhoe" of Sir Walter Scott. The Manor of Clipstone seems to have been at different periods in the possession of the Earls of Richmond, Pembroke, Surrey and Warwick. James I. granted it to Gilbert of Worksop, Earl of Shrewsbury, when it remained in the family of Talbot till it passed, as will be seen in our 11 Descent of the ' Dukeries '" to the Dukes of Newcastle and Portland ; the latter now owning it. Mr. Eddison, writing in 1884, says — " Until recently the extensive foundations and vaults of the palace remained, but the greater part have been dug up. It is now but a ghost of a palace. The only remnants are some rugged walls in which are a few Gothic windows, whose rich tracery has yielded, like the hand that carved it, to the action of time." The portion of the building now standing, is in an enclosure near the village, and is probably a part of the hall. " No more the sound of bugle horn Shall rouse the outlaw band ; And quarry, and hawk, and deer-hound good, And minstrel's gentle lay, — All these from old Sherwood's forest glades Long time have passed away ! " Where the pride and chivalry of kings once revelled in the fastness of the forest, and the soul- stirring notes of the hound and horn woke the echoes of the woodland ; where fashion and beauty greeted the lordly barons as they returned from the royal chase, and invited them to the festive boards, has now been transformed into one of the most peaceful and productive agricultural districts in England. At the cost of nearly ^"80,000, the vast irrigation works of the late Duke of Portland have recovered these fertile plains from a barren tract of gorse and heather, a rabbit warren and a dismal swamp. The Duke's water meadows, through which runs a gigantic flood dyke, are situated 8 4 CLIPSTONE PALACE. at Clipstone. These have been under- drained at a cost of ^ioo per acre, and the waters of the river Maun are taken advantage of to convey sewage through drains and sluice dykes, so that thousands of acres can be watered at pleasure with the best results. Sir James Caird, the eminent agricultural authority, has described these water meadows as "the most gigantic improvement of their kind in England." Situated in the centre of a grassy drive, and not far removed from the ruins of the palace, is Clipstone Lodge. Its erection was commenced by the late Duke in 1842, and its Gothic design is after that of Worksop Priory Gate-house. It is locally known as the " Duke's Archway." There are residences on either side of the archway, above which is a capacious room, used as a school for the children of the neighbourhood. On the south side are three niches in Caen stone, in which are figures of Robin Hood, Little John, and their faithful Maid Marian. On the other side are representations of Richard Cceur de Lion, Friar Tuck, and iUan-a-Dale the Minstrel. "THE PARLIAMENT" OAK. About a mile to the north-west of Clipstone, is situated the famous "Parliament" Oak. And such a mile along the well-kept road, w T ith woodland views on every hand is rarely to be found. Before approaching this time-honoured monu- ment of the primeval character of the proudest of England's institutions, let us glance at the history of this famous tree. Tradition accounts for its name by stating that King John, in 12 12, was hunting in the forest, when the news was brought to him that the Welsh had again revolted. He hastily summoned a council of the barons who were with him, under the shade of this venerable oak, and there, resolved upon measures for the suppression of the rebellion. Another story is that Edward I., in 1290, held a parliament round this umbrageous oak, and it may be that this great law- CLIPSTONE PALACE. 85 maker, under this very tree, fashioned some important legislation, which will live in England longer even than this ancient tree. It has been asserted by some that Edward's parliament was held at Clip- stone Palace, and not under the shade of the oak. Whether this be so or not, the vitality of oral tradition transmitted through the ages from generation to generation, makes the locality classic ground, for, in all probability, the history of England in the thirteenth century is bound up with that of this interesting tree. Its circumference is about 27 ft., and though much of the trunk has decayed, one of its roots has shot up a green stripling, which, to some extent, supports the parent stem, and is likely to perpetuate the site of the " Parliament " Oak for centuries to come. WELBECK ABBEY AND PARK. SHE wonders of Welbeck Abbey, the seat of His Grace the Duke of Portland, may well have become famed both far and near ; and if this were the only baronial hall worth visiting amongst the beauties of Sherwood, the Tourist would be well repaid for the trouble and expense incurred in his journey to Worksop and the " Dukeries." Shortly after entering the park, the Visitor comes into a green dell, where stands THE "GREENDALE" OAK. In Throsby's edition of " Thoroton," 1797, the " Greendale" Oak is estimated to be 1500 years old. This venerable forest king — not inaptly termed the " Methuselah of trees," — though he has been seemingly in the last stage of decay for more than a hundred years, still braves the storms and tempests ; " Still high his bleached arm is cast, Still scorns to flinch and dares the blast," and whatever his age may be, it is beyond doubt that he was in existence ere the Abbey was eredted, or monks had commenced their brief sojourn in the locality. The famous tree w r as sorely wounded in 1724, by having an aperture cut through its bole sufficiently large to permit of a carriage and four being driven through. Though thus pierced to the very core, sufficient life is left in this ancient relic to support one solitary green branch, w T hich rises from its otherwise decapitated trunk. WELBECK. 87 Major Rooke gives the following as the dimensions in 1779 : — Circumference of the tree above the arch, 35 ft. 3 in. ; height of arch, 10 ft. 3m. ; width about middle, 6 ft. 3 in. ; height of top branch, 54 ft. The archway has considerably contracted since these dimensions were taken, and the tree has, for many years past, been carefully supported by props. Whilst dealing with the subject of this venerable oak, we will refer to other remarkable trees which this park contains. The " Seven Sisters" had at one time seven trunks issuing from one root, in a perpendicular direction. The " Porter" Oaks, so called from a gateway having been at one time between them, had dimensions as follows : — height, 98 ft. and 88 ft., with circumference of 38 ft. and 34 ft. respectively. The " Duke's Walking Stick," which once stood in the park, was a fine straight oak, having dimensions, as given by Major Rooke, as follows: — height, in ft. 6 in. ; solid contents, 440 ft. ; weight, 11 tons. Though this tree has long ceased to live, its memory is perpetuated in the existence of the " Young Oak Walking Stick," of about 130 years' growth, and which stands near the Abbey. " Tennyson's Talking Oak" is the name given to a modern shoot. The history of Welbeck as a monastic establish- ment pales before that of the improvements and gigantic building operations of modern times. Previous to the arrival of William the Conqueror, it was in the hands of Sweyn the Saxon, and subsequently was held by Gamelbere as part of his manor of Cuckney. This, with most of the other manors of Nottinghamshire, was granted by the Norman con- queror to Roger de Busli, and was held by him or his under-tenants. Gamelbere, the old Saxon knight, as a special privilege was allowed to retain (according to Thoroton), two carucates of land at Cuckney, on condition that he shod the king's horse whenever he came to his Manor of Mansfield ; and also, " if any army should be in Wales, he was to do service according to the quantity of two 88 WELBECK. carucates of land, and likewise for homage." Gamelbere died without issue, and Henry I- gave his portion to Joceus de Flemangh or Coste, who married a cousin of Earl Ferrers. They had a son Thomas de Cuckney, who established the Abbey of Welbeck, about the year 1140. It was dedicated to St. James, and was inhabited by a colony of Premonstratensian canons, from Leicestershire. They were habited in white cassock, cloak and cap, in contradistinction to the more sombre habiliments of black canons. This was a religious order newly - introduced into England, and Welbeck was at the head of 35 houses following the rules of this con- fraternity in 1515. It seems to have flourished as a retreat for holy brethren until the devastating enactment of Henry VIII., which scattered the abbots and their followers, and appropriated their domains to other purposes more congenial to that powerful monarch's tastes. About 1538-9, Henry granted the site of the Abbey to Richard Whalley ; its revenues at that time amounting to ^249 6s. 3d. The estate seems to have remained in the hands of his heirs until the latter half of the sixteenth century, when it passed to Edward Osborne, (a cloth-worker of London), Robert Booth and Randulph Catterall, and then, probably by purchase, into the hands of Sir Charles Cavendish, whose pedigree we give in our " Descent of the Dukeries," as also the manner in which the Abbey came to be a ducal residence. Very little of the monastic buildings now remain, and the only portions which are, without doubt, relics of them, are some spacious vaults and several inner walls, in which are inserted some sepulchral monuments. Mr. Edward Bradbury, in an excellent article in London Society says : — " Engaging as the majority of these places are, not only by reason of their architecture and associations, but by virtue of their scenic surroundings and old oak forests, in which Saxon hid and Norman hunted, none of them is so WELBECK. 89 interesting, so curious, so attractive, so astonishing, so eccentric as Welbeck. By its vast size, and its startling surprise, it is calculated very considerably to enlarge what phrenologists call ' the bump of wonder' to the imminent danger of upsetting the balance of the cerebral symmetry. You approach Welbeck, let us assume from Worksop, from which it is about three miles-and-a-half. The sun lies warm and bright on the grassy meads and wooded uplands of the Sherw T ood country. Suddenly, and without seeming warning, your horse leaves the glad light. You plunge into a resounding dim vault. You might have been precipitated into the Catacombs. You might have been thrown intoMJhe^ cave of Trophonius. . Instead of the summer scent, there is the smell of the tomb. Instead of the pleasant silence of a country lane, there is the con- fusion of clamorous echoes ; something like that you hear when an express train is bursting through a tunnel. Ever and anon a reminiscence of gas, or a circle of light apparently struggling through a bull's eye lantern from the rumbling roof, makes weird Rembrandt-like shadows. If your horse is spirited, and not accustomed to the strange plunge the coach- man has taken, driving him is a nervous sensation, and he will probably emerge in the sunshine at the new Riding School at Welbeck trembling with the excitement of fear, and with foam flecking his bit. This subterranean carriage-way is one of the many interminable tunnels with which the late Duke of Portland perforated Welbeck and its approaches. He is reported to have spent between two and three millions sterling in making this vast congeries of underground walks, and drives, and halls. There is a labyrinth of private tunnels through which three people can walk abreast. They are comfortably warmed, and lighted artificially with gas, and naturally by circles of plate glass from the grassy avenues of the park above. Altogether, there are some miles of these underground promenades." A considerable portion of the present mansion go WELBECK. was built by the celebrated Elizabeth Hardwick, (wife of Sir William Cavendish, and afterwards of the great Earl of Shrewsbury), and her third son, Sir Charles Cavendish, father of William Cavendish, first Duke of Newcastle, upon the basement of the ancient Abbey ; and successive owners have added wings and suites of rooms until the building has assumed its pre- sent palatial proportions. The late owner in particular having annually expended fabulous sums in additions and alterations to the Abbey, so as to render it one of the most extraordinary buildings in the kingdom. The parts existing of the once " great church" or Abbey of St. James bear unmistakable evidences of the ancient and monkish character of the building, and will doubtless excite the interest and curiosity of those of an antiquarian turn of mind. The ceilings, with their pointed arches, carry us back to the Gothic period, and a small doorway, in an ad- mirable state of preservation, denotes the sturdy character of the Norman style. These apartments comprise the Servants' Hall, and three or four other rooms occupied by them ; and the beautiful condition in which they are kept gives rise to the anticipation that it will be long ere these remnants of the ancient history of the Abbey will crumble to decay. It should be borne in mind that Welbeck is not a "show house" according to the general acceptation of the term. It is a private residential palace, and as some of the noble Duke's family are usually there, it would be presumptuous to expect that the " Wonders of Welbeck" would be thrown open to the inspection of the troops of sightseers who would doubtless make the princely mansion their rendezvous. The underground apartments — including the picture gallery — the riding school and tan gallop, and portions of the grounds are however shown to the Tourist, and these, of themselves, are calculated to create the greatest amount of wonder and astonish- ment. By the extension of a gracious privilege, which we cannot too highly prize, we have been * w r h f o O Z Z 92 WELBECK. permitted to view the whole of the interior, in- cluding the State apartments, but space does not admit of our attempting to give more than a general idea of the wealth, the profusion, and the vast and gigantic dimensions of the regal magnifi- cence of Welbeck. No description that we can give within the limited capacity of this guide-book can convey an adequate conception of the extra- ordinary grandeur which pervades the ducal residence. In 1734, Margaret Cavendish Harley, only child of the Earl and Countess of Oxford, married the second Duke of Portland, and carried Welbeck and Bolsover into the ducal family. Her mother, the Countess of Oxford, had a great portion of the house restored, and affixed the date to the work in various parts of the interior, which leads a casual observer to conclude that the residence is a comparatively modern structure. The Oxford wing, as it is called, contains some of the most luxurious apartments in the mansion, and adjacent thereto, is the Gothic Hall, the interior of which is also the work of the Countess of Oxford. It is a gem of architecture, and the ceiling is a revelation of art, with its pendant fan-tracery in the Gothic style. The workmanship is of a most delicate description ; the carving and painting of the oak of which the ornamentation is constructed, being specially noticeable. Over a hand- some fireplace hangs the Countess of Oxford's coat of arms. Here are several interesting family portraits, including one of the fourth Duke, by Sir F. Grant, and presented by his Grace's tenants. Portraits of Margaret Cavendish Harley and the second Duke, by Hudson, hang on the walls, as does a portrait of the distinguished statesman Lord George Bentinck, whose life terminated suddenly at Welbeck when almost at the zenith of his fame ; this is by Belli, after Lane ; also portraits of Lieut. -General Bentinck, father of the present Duke of Portland, by Richmond ; and of the Baroness Bolsover, painted by J. Sant, r.a., and presented to her Ladyship by the employes of the estate and tradesmen of Worksop. That quali- WELBECK. 9 3 ties and inclinations are generally hereditary is well illustrated in the Bentinck family ; the famous taste of the Dukes of Portland for the equine species being brought to memory by a fine model of St. Simon, the noted racehorse, who will, however, probably take a second place amongst his Grace's favourites, now that Ayrshire has won for him the honours of the Derby. The room abounds in articles of rare design and enormous value, as is likewise the case in every other part of this lavishly-adorned dwelling. In the Oxford wing, the rooms are furnished most sumptuously in the Louis XVI. style, while the chimney-pieces, carving, and Wedgwood plaques impart to them a noble and dignified appearance. The Large Drawing Room is a capacious apart- ment ; the cornices being handsomely enriched with white and gold, and the walls hung with fine French tapestry. The doorways and massive marble mantel- piece give to the room a solidity in harmony with the features for which Welbeck is celebrated. Here is a wonderful collection of the productions of Vandyke, including portraits of Wentworth, Earl of Stafford, Charles I., the first Duke of Newcastle, the Prince of Orange, Sir Kenelm Digby, Moses in the Bulrushes, Archbishop Laud, Queen Henrietta Maria, and Charles II. There is also a study of an old woman by Greffier, and three paintings by Dixon. One of the most important features amongst the art treasures at Welbeck, and for which it is famous, is the fine collection of miniatures ; and in this room are some exceedingly choice examples of this delicate art. There are two cases containing portraits of royalty, one case of family miniatures, and one of painters and literary celebrities. Amongst others are Mary Queen of Scots, Queen Anne, and Charles I. ; Henrietta Maria, by Petito ; Charles I., by Cooper ; Prince Rupert, Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth when Princess, and Henry VIII. ; and family portraits by Zincke. There are also miniatures of Shakespeare, Inigo Jones, Sir Peter Lely, Sir Philip 94 WELBECK. Sydney, Oliver Cromwell, and Walter, the poet, by P. Oliver. The tapestry, cabinets, and various rare articles arranged about the room are of the most costly description, and probably cannot be equalled in any other house in the kingdom. Amongst many treasures of exceptional interest are Queen Mary II.'s coronation ring, Queen Henrietta Maria's rosary of carved cherry and plum stones, Henry VIII. 's dagger, and King Charles I.'s ear-ring, which was in his ear when he was executed. There is also in this room the first piece of Dresden china ever made. The Swan Drawing Room is so called from the large representation of a swan on the fine Axminster carpet. On the walls are pictures by Van Uden ; of Edward VII., probably by Guillimi Stretes ; fowls, by Houdekocher ; Elizabeth Cavendish, first daughter of Henry Duke of Newcastle, who married, firstly, Chris- topher Monk, second Duke of Albemarle, and secondly, the Duke of Montagu, who courted and married her as Emperor of China, 1734, by Lely ; oil painting on copper, of head, by Correggio ; boy laughing, by Murillo ; Christ and St. John, by Guido ; a wonderful and elaborate representation of the Tower of Babel, by Breughel ; Christ and St. John, by De Passaro ; Buonaparte, by De la Roche; a large picture entitled "The Garden of Love," by Rubens ; landscapes by Orizonte and Greffier. Here are also two cases of miniatures, in which are represented Maria Antoinette, by the Chevalier de Beaumon ; the Duchess de Berri ; also portraits of Napoleon, by Isaby and Soissons ; the Empress Josephine, and others. Amongst other valuables in this room is a jewel chest, a marvellously-wrought brass, and crimson velvet, formerly belonging to William III. and Mary, and given by them to the first Earl and Countess of Portland. The Blue Drawing Room is an extremely hand- some saloon ; the walls being richly hung with blue satin damask, the upholstery matching the luxurious surroundings. A well-executed piece of old English tapestry occupies a prominent position, the subject WELBECK. 95 represented being a Continental harvest scene. There are several ancestral portraits, besides paintings of a peacock and birds by Houdekocher , six small paintings, by Van Orley ; the Empress Catherine of Russia ; pair of Dead Game, by Biltius ; land- scape, by Poussin ; a large painting of Antwerp, by Paul Brill ; a River Scene by the same artist ; and a landscape by Ruysdael. In the Entrance Hall is a fine piece of Flemish tapestry, and amongst other objects of interest here are two stuffed bears, killed by the Duke in Russia, in 1886. There is a splendid model of the ship in which the first Bentinck came over to England with the Prince of Orange. A gigantic pike, killed in the lake, is shown in a glass case, as are also several other piscatorial specimens whose huge proportions attract attention. The buhl cabinets, curiosities, and other interesting articles in the room are both numerous and many of them of priceless worth. The Ante-room contains, amongst other works of art, a picture of King William III., and presented by him to the first Earl of Portland ; also a choice painting of St. Jerome in his study, by Stenwick. In the State Dressing Room, the furniture is of gold and white, upholstered with rare Old English needlework. The Alcove Bedroom is another state apart- ment, and was occupied by the Prince of Wales when he visited Welbeck. The bed itself stands in an alcove, highly enriched with exquisite carving. A costly Indian quilt and white satin hangings, displaying some gorgeous and elaborate oriental embroidery, are amongst the embellishments of this room. Hanging on the wall is a portrait of the Princess of Wales. The State Boudoir is a splendid apartment, and furnished in most luxurious style. The cornice is ornamented with gold, and the pictures are set in panels on the walls, richly and elegantly gilded. One of the most extraordinary pieces of handicraft 96 WELBECK. in this room is an ebony and ivory secretaire, of Italian workmanship, which is a perfect gazetteer of the w r orld, containing maps and plans of the principal cities and countries of the globe. This is but one of a host of beautiful and curious articles of vertu, which, with the silk damask and plush furnishings, and Axminster pile carpet, make this room one of the most charming in the Abbey. Amongst the pictures here are Louis Dauphin, Madame de Maintenon and Princess de Conde, by Largillier ; Marie Josephine of Saxony, by Tocque ; Madame la Valliere ; and Silvia, advice celebre. The " Horsemanship " Bedroom is chiefly dis- tinguished for the Flemish tapestry which adorns the walls, emblematic of the first Duke of New- castle's love of horsemanship. This wonderful tapestry serves to remind the observer in a vivid manner of that famous nobleman's equestrian tastes. Here are also some fine family portraits. Near to this bedroom is an apartment where the first Duke of Newcastle wrote his celebrated work on Horseman- ship, the original manuscript of which is still pre- served at Welbeck. The room is pannelled with oak, and has the appearance of a model literary sanctum. In the White Bedroom is a handsome four- post bedstead, formerly used by the late Duke. The bed furnishings are very beautiful, and include some delicate specimens of Old English needlework. The Music Room contains paintings by Beckar ; a copy of a cartoon, after Raphael; Madonna and Child, by Vandyke; St. Cecilia playing the organ, by Carlo Dolce ; a series of paintings representing Charity, by Franks ; four pictures' by Breughel ; St. John in the .Wilderness, by Caracci ; lionesses and roebuck, by Rubens and. Snyders ; Antoine de Lagra, by Titian-; Magdalene, by Titian ; landscape, by Claude ; Noah building the Ark, by Bassano ; and a representation of the rising of the waters at the flood, by the same artist ; Madonna, by Carlo Dolce ; Christ bearing the Cross, by WELBECK. 97 Raphael; a Holy Family, by Raphael; and a pair of cartoons copied from Raphael. The furniture of this room is in gold and yellow satin. Lady Bolsover's Boudoir is another delightful apartment, whose chaste contents and charming adornments, disposed on every hand with exquisite taste, are so numerous as to render it impossible here to convey an adequate idea of their beauty or form. The room is furnished in most elegant style, and the walls are lined with the productions of some of the most famous of the old masters. Here are examples of the works of Holbein, Wouvermans, and Rubens ; a landscape, by Schalch ; a study of a boy, by Rembrandt; an old man, by Titian, and others. The room also possesses three wonderful sea-pieces, by Vandevelde, which make up a collection of pictures of almost fabulous value. In the adjacent corridor and vestibule is a superb collection of miniatures and other pictures, the subjects being principally portraits of various French celebrities, amongst whom appear Maria Therese, by Mignard ; Marie Adelaide of Savoy, grandmother of Louis XV., by Largillier ; Madame de Pompadour, by Drouais ; General Ireton, by Jansen, as well as others by Mignard and Nattier. In the Duke's business room, a very striking feature is a magnificent elephant's head, which is placed over the mantelpiece. The noble quadruped was killed by Colonel Vivian, in 1875. Another object of special interest is the famous cabinet made from the wood of the " Greendale" Oak, to commemorate the feat of one of the Dukes, who had an aperture cut through its bole sufficiently large to allow a carriage and four horses to pass through. The cabinet bears date 1727, is in an excellent state of preservation, and contains on its surface inlaid representations of the coach-and-four passing through the tree. On descending the staircase, is presented an ex- ceedingly effective and pretty view of a large and choice collection of blue China, of Oriental manu- 9 8 WELBECK. facture. This is tastefully arranged in a large recess over a doorway, where, in addition to the really charming effect produced, the priceless pieces are out of harm's way. In various parts of the mansion are beautiful collections of the different styles of the potter's art, some of which are unique of their kind, and unsurpassed by any in the world. The famous old riding-school of the first Duke of Newcastle — built by him when Viscount Mansfield, in 1623 — is now a Library, except one end of it, which is screened off by crimson hangings, and used as a Church. Walls and doors are panelled, and silvered glass in all directions creates a brilliant appearance. Four cut-glass chandeliers, each weighing nearly a ton, are suspended from the roof, which, with twenty- eight smaller chandeliers, and sixty-four side brackets of glass, make a total of two thousand lights, the glittering and sparkling effecl: of which can scarcely be imagined. Natural light is also introduced through the medium of thirty sky-lights and fifteen large windows. The room is a veritable temple of crystal, 180 ft. long, 50 ft. high, and 40 ft. wide. The oaken floor is highly polished, and the roof is painted to represent the glories of an Italian sky. The roof is covered with patent corrugated copper. In two turrets on this has been placed a clock of wonderful construction. It has been referred to by Mr. Benson, of Old Bond Street, thus : — " In a set of clock calendars which I sometime since provided for His Grace the Duke of Portland, the clock showed the time on four dials, 5ft. gin. in diameter, quarters, hours, etc. on bells of 12 cwt., repeating the hour after the first, second and third quarter. The two sides of an adjoining tower show a calendar which indicates on special circles of a large dial, by means of separate hands, the month of the year, the day of the month, and the day of the week." This remarkable clever piece of mechanism strikes what are known as " Cambridge chimes." Underneath this wonderful apartment are vast WELBECK. 99 wine cellars, which are connected with the Abbey by means of subterranean passages. A suite of magnificent rooms, all underground, and lighted by bull's-eyes from the roof above, is contiguous to the Picture Gallery, another vast hall, in which are treasures and masterpieces of great value. The corridors by which this suite of apart- ments is approached, as is the case in every other part of the Abbey, are lined with oil paintings of His Grace the late Duke of Portland. (From Photo, of Bust at Welbeck Abbey.) kings, queens, warriors, and other celebrities. In one of these rooms is a very fine collection of British birds, which is scarcely surpassed in the kingdom. Magnificent mahogany doors and tapestry hangings complete the appearance of massive grandeur, which is an essential characteristic of this ioo WELBECK. palatial residence. At one of the entrances of the Picture Gallery, the Visitor cannot help being struck with the portrait of Adelaide Kemble, afterwards Mrs. Sartoris ; the histrionic attitude of the figure being remarkably telling. At the further extremity of the Picture Gallery is a bust of the late Duke, the work of H. R. Pinker, in 1880. Amongst the numerous pictures on the walls are the following :— Angel in contemplation, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; William, Duke of Cumberland, and Lord Richard Cavendish; Charles I. by De Mytens ; Signora Zacaria, by Tintoretto ; Dutch Boers drinking, by Teniers ; Greendale Oak, by Barrett ; Boar Hunt, by Snyders ; Hawking, by Snyders ; Butcher's Stall, by Bassano ; Engagement of Cavalry, by Wyck ; Wolf Hunt, by De Vos ; Woman watering flowers, by Greffier ; mythical subjects, by Francks ; Holy Family, by Bassano ; Moonlight, by Berghem ; studies, by Zucchero, Vandevelde and Richardson ; Stag Hunt, by Snyders ; two large paintings, Stag Hunt and Bear Hunt, by Snyders ; landscape, by Wootton ; Dutch Fair, by Breughel ; Marquis of Titchfield, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; Battle of the Boyne, by F. Wyck; Boar Hunt, by De Vos ; Roche Abbey, by Barrett ; Battle of the Boyne, by Dirk Maas ; the young Birdcatcher, by Netscher ; Bull baiting, by Snyders ; Cupid driving away Satyrs, by Cagnacci ; the Adoration of the Shepherds, by Gerard Honthorst ; Judith with the head of Holofernes, by Dix, after Guido ; Battle of the Boyne, by Van der Meulen ; studies by Bassano and Bourdon ; Cardinal Fleury, by Rigaud ; Cleopatra, inscribed Michael Wright. There are also an ex- ceedingly large number of portraits by Vandyke, in addition to others by Holbein, Kneller, Lely, Dahl, M. Shee, Knapton, West, Wootton, D. Mytens, Jansen, and Verelst. The dimensions of the Picture Gallery are : — length, 158 ft. 9 in., width, 63 ft. 8 in., height, 22 ft. A modern writer says : — " The picture gallery io2 WELBECK. I have denominated noble, and noble it is, being 158 ft. long, and illuminated by eleven hundred burn- ers. This gives access to a further subterranean hall of splendid proportions and delightful appoint- ments. It is meant for a ball room. Like all the other chambers, it is excavated out of the solid clay, at a fabulous expense of time and capital, the one of years, and the other of thousands of pounds. Internally these cavernous buildings are perfectly cheerful, and most lavishly decorated. Externally all you see is a lawn diversified with shrubs, broken here and there by a disc of glass sending natural light below, and small iron structures that are ventilators for the gas." From the kitchens, which are above ground, and situate some distance from the Abbey, the dishes are conveyed to the guests in the Abbey below by a miniature railway and hydraulic lift. Of the network of subterranean passages under and around the Abbey, some connect the kitchens and servants' apartments, whilst one nearly a mile in length, full of strange perspectives, takes us to the riding-school — another of Welbeck's wonders. This astonishing building is 385 ft. long, 104 ft. broad, and 51 ft. high. It is lit by 8,ooo gas jets. The richly ornamented roof is of glass and iron. The tiles are of copper, the walls solid masonry. Fifty columns support the roof. There is a cornice in solid stone, which cost five guineas a yard to carve. A notable frieze of metal work represents foliage, fruit, flowers, birds, and beasts of the forest, carved and coloured in a most artistic manner. The floor is covered with soft tan. Besides the new riding- school is the " Galop," 1,270 ft. long, with roof of glass, of which it contains about 64,000 feet. At the date of the late Duke's death, (December, 1879), the beautiful pleasaunce around Welbeck Abbey was in the possession of an army of artificers and navvies, carrying out that noble- man's designs. Shedding and workshops, forge fires and machinery in motion had converted a WELBECK. 103 fairy scene into a huge contractor's yard. Indeed, the noble owner for many years devoted a princely income to improvements and alterations on the estate, which, for their extent, and the number of work- people employed, have probably never been equalled in the experience of any private individual. It should be mentioned that James I. and Charles I. were entertained at Welbeck in kingly style by the munificent owner. " Rare Ben Jonson" was secured by the Duke to entertain the ill-fated monarch with his sparkling wit, and it was at Welbeck that he wrote " Love's Welcome." The park is about 10 miles in circumference ; its woodland scenery being exceedingly beauti- ful. The chief feature, perhaps, are the numerous gigantic oak trees, which stud the landscape in every direction, and whose apparent antiquity suggest to the mind the scenes enacted by the monkish occupants of the venerable Abbey close by ; indeed, it is not difficult for fancy to conjure up visions of the white-robed canons taking their walks on the grassy sword around. Dotted about at intervals are picturesque groups of deer, browsing in quiet solitude under the umbrageous branches of the broad-spreading oaks, culling the rich herbage, or bounding away across the park in the distant horizon. Many of the stags are un- usually fine ; the herds at Welbeck, for many years past having been carefully replenished by impor- tations of some of the finest specimens from the forests on his Grace's Scotch estates. There is likewise a large herd of pure white deer. The beautiful lake which runs along the east front of the Abbey is nearly three miles long ; its waters, after being used in the system of irrigation which has been described in the notice of Clipstone, pass thence to the ornamental waters of Clumber. The lake, at Welbeck, is crossed by an elegant bridge, with handsome highly-ornamented iron gates. A beautifully-designed boat-house stands on its shores, and not far from this is an artificial skating WELBECK. 105 ring, with dressing rooms and every appliance for enjoying the invigorating exercise. On the estate are between 40 and 50 picturesque lodges, all of similar design, and built of Steetley stone, at great expense. These are also treated to the late Duke's penchant for subterranean building ; inmost cases the kitchens and offices being underground, at the side of the lodge, lighted by bulls'-eyes. The mansion has three fronts of almost equal im- portance ; and as seerj from over the lake, with its long line of pointed gables, battlements, turrets, and towers, presents a most noble appearance. Its architecture, owing to the extensive alterations made at different periods, consists of various styles — a combination of the Italian and classical. The pleasure grounds and terraces which surround the Abbey, and extend for a considerable distance in a direction parallel with the lake, are ornamented with rare and beautiful trees in luxuriant verdure ; some fine specimens of the Cedrus Deodora (the sacred cedar of the Hindoos), and of the Himalayan mountain fir being especially noticeable. The charming parterres are tastefully laid out, whilst the extensive lawns are intersected with graceful walks. The hunting stables are of gigantic proportions, are fitted up in a most resplendent style, and contain stalls for a hundred horses. The stud comprises many valuable animals ; and every description of carriage and vehicle is contained in the extensive coach-houses. The racing stables and paddocks, though comparatively of recent introduction, contain many horses of great value and the highest repute. The elaborately-constructed cowsheds also possess the most perfect appointments, whilst the dairy is fitted in a beautiful manner, lined with encaustic tiles, and has in the centre a fountain, whose crystal spray tends to produce a cooling effect. The timber yards and workshops are of great extent, and fitted with every kind of machinery and mechanical appliance ; here artisans of nearly every io6 WELBECK. trade are employed in making almost all that so large an estate requires. Amongst numerous other fine buildings situated near the stables and riding school, are the steward's offices, extensive poultry-yards, and laundry. With a view to the comfort and well-being of his numerous employes, the present Duke, shortly after succeeding to the estates, fitted up in a handsome manner a social club and canteen, comprising the conveniences of billiard room and refreshment room, together with an assortment of literature and the daily newspapers. His Grace's laudable scheme has proved an immense boon to those in his employ. All these buildings are of one massive style of architecture, and are equally complete and sumptuous in their internal fittings. To pro- tect this vast pile from the devastating effects of fire, a powerful steam engine with other ap- pliances is always in readiness on the premises, whilst towers and hydrants are placed in every conceivable spot. A vast area is devoted to the kitchen gar- dens and conservatories ; the vineries and peach- houses alone being nearly iooo feet in length ; whilst their are other hot-houses of considerable extent. Under the superintendence of the most skilful gardeners, extraordinary specimens of grapes, pines and other fruits are here produced, and may be seen in ever) 7 stage of forcing and fructification. The present Duke is a great favourite at the Court of Her Majesty the Queen, and holds the important office of Master of the Horse. In the country he is known as a successful agri- culturist and owner of horses, whilst his generosity and genial mien are the pride of his retainers and the admiration of the neighbourhood. A sketch of the family will be found in the " Descent of the 'Dukeries.'" Is^M WW $00 ^^ffijyfe srjs ^jfc *£fekNj>Lj ffi IIf 1 :~£g #^§*w **-i^^ mm v " L&7KttM MjjfijSSSH Ira yy,/ ^s^ Hr y^yl^g] Esafll CRESSWELL CRAGS ^*"^ RE distant about five miles to the south- west of Worksop. Visitors delighting in rural life and others whose scientific attainments lead them to read off the earth's age by the ex- amination of its stratified formation, will be interested in this beautiful glen or crag-bound valley. The journey from Worksop may be made either by rail or road. These Crags vary in height from about 30 ft. to 80 ft. and the situation of the ravine, with its flowing stream of water, and immense weather- worn masses of rock profusely clothed with vegeta- tion, gives them a ruggedly natural appearance. The romantic defile and glen is at once strikingly picturesque and impressive, and the site of such great natural changes in the ages past should make the locality popular with strangers. During the past few years explorations on an extensive scale have been conducted, and important discoveries made, by some of the most eminent scientists of the day, and, owing to the courtesy of one of these authorities, w T e are enabled to give the following descriptive account, which will doubtless be received with deep interest by both scientific and non- scientific readers : — . CRESSWELL CRAGS. A range of hills of Magnesian Limestone extends from York- shire southwards into Leicestershire in the Permian geological io8 CRESS WELL CRAGS. formation. These hills run across the natural drainage course of the rivers of the country, and have at one time formed the escarpment of a tributary of one of the huge rivers, which in former ages crossed this country, when it was continuous with the mainland, and the s3aboard extended far into the Atlantic. They are intersected at intervals by ravines which have been excavated by streams, one of which has formed Cresswell Crags, near the old village of Cresswell, on the estate of the Duke of Portland. The Crags are about a third of a mile in length, and form two beetling escarpments from thirty to eighty feet high. Crag and scree are capped with a luxuriant growth of hazel, maple, ash, oak, alder and ivy. The stream, which has been here dammed into a lake by the late Duke of Port- land, forms the boundary between the counties of Derby and Nottingham. On each side of these Crags are fissures and caverns, which have been formed by the agency of water. On the north side are the Pin Hole, Dog Hole, Robin Hood cave, and " Mother Grundy's Parlour; " and on the south side the Church Hole. This ravine was one of the reputed haunts of Robin Hood and his hundred men. Many rare plants and useful herbs abound. The Rock Rose basks in the summer sun on the north side, and Ploughman's Spikenard is plentiful on the south Crag. Pellitory-on-the-wall and Wall Lettuce grow in profusion in the crevices of the rocks ; and on the banks of the stream may be found the Perfoliate Yellow Wort and Ground Ivy, whilst the Great Hairy Willow Herb skirts the lake with a glory of pink and cream-coloured blossoms. Cresswell Crags, however, have become more es- pecially noted for the Paloeontological riches of their caves, in the shape of teeth and bones of extinct mammalia of the Pleistocene age. The explorations at Cresswell Crags in 1876, were con- ducted under the auspices of a committee, consisting of Sir J. Lubbock, m.p., f.r.s., as President ; Prof. W. Boyd Dawkins, f.r.s., (Secretary) ; F. Longdon, (Treasurer) ; Prof. G. Busk, f.r.s., W. Bragge, f.g.s., R. D. Darbishire, b.a., f.g.s., J. Evans, f.r.s., A. W. Franks, f.r.s., Rooke Pennington, ll.b., f.g.s., Prof. Prestwick, f.r.s., and the Rev. J. M. Mello, m.a., f.g.s., (Director and Reporter), Prof. W 7 . Boyd Dawkins and T. Heath, f.r.h.s. being Superintendents. The Pin Hole, first noticed and explored by the Rev. J. M. Mello, is a fissure forty to fifty yards long, at that time filled with sand and angular blocks of stone which had fallen from the roof. Beneath these were found a quantity of teeth and bones of a mammalia belonging to the Pleistocene age, most of which have died out in this country, some of them being wholly extincl:. The bones showed traces of having been gnawed by the hyaenas ; more especially the long bones, containing marrow, of which they are very fond. This hyaena was a large variety of the Spotted Hyaena, now found only in central and southern Africa. CRESS WELL CRAGS. 109 The remains were identified by Prof. Busk as belonging to the grisly bear, hyaena, wolf, common fox, Arctic fox, glutton, bison, reindeer, Irish elk, horse, woolly rhinoceros, and mammoth. The Arctic fox, abundant in the Polar regions, had not been previously found in Britain, but had been discovered in the caves of France, Germany, and Switzerland ; and the glutton had been previously found in the Plas Heaton cave near St. Asaph. The bodies of these animals were carried piecemeal into the cave by packs of hyaenas. The Robin Hood and Church caves also furnish a rich harvest of " finds" to the explorers, of a similar character in both caves. In addition to those found in the Pin Hole were the remains of the lion, Mackairodus or sabre toothed lion, hare, wild cat, leopard and brown bear; the glutton and Arctic fox being absent. The presence of man of the " River Drift" type was shown by the discovery of five " Pot boilers" of quartzite, and three splinters of the same material, in an un- disturbed bed of red sand, which formed the lowest fossiliferous layer in the Robin Hood cave. Underlying the red sand, a layer of white sand devoid of fossils existed. Above the red sand, were layers of red cave earth, and a stalagmitic stony Breccia, which contained several weapons and trimmed flakes of flint, and numerous simple flakes, scrapers, choppers, and two incised bones of the late Palaeolithic type fashioned by the " cave men." One of the incised bones represented a correctly drawn figure of a horse on a fragment of rib, being the first specimen of this kind found in Britain ; several, however, having been found on the Continent in the caves of France, Belgium, and Switzerland, which exhibit a skill in drawing in outline superior to Ancient Egyptian art of the same kind. The Hyaena and Man appear to have held possession of the caves alternately ; the human occupants possessing wandering habits, owing to climate and the migrations of animals on which they subsisted ; a mode of life which is an effectual barrier to the development of civilized habits. Agriculture, domesticated animals, the use of metals, or pottery, and even the art of polishing a stone weapon were unknown in the Paloeolithic age, an age which must have been of vast duration ; yet the skill exhibited in drawing on bone and ivory, shows that despite their enforced nomadic life, they possessed a certain amount of refinement of mind. They were small in stature, living by hunting, equipped only with spear and javelin of chipped flint. The "River Drift" type is supposed to have been of southern origin, and has been traced as far as India. The "cave men" of later date associated with the Arctic mammalia, were a northern race, no trace of them being found south of the Pyrenees. They were identical in habit and tastes with the present Eskimos, and like them, lived upon a habitable strip of cold border land, which accompanied the advance and retreat of the huge ice sheets of glacial or great ice age. "Mother Grundy's Parlour" was next explored by Prof. no CRESS WELL CRAGS. Dawkins and the Rev. J. M. Mello, which resulted in the discovery of the Hippopotamus and Leptorhine Rhinoceros in an older fossil bed than existed in the preceding caves, consisting of red clay and yellow ferruginous sand underlying the red sand. No trace of Man was found in this bed, but implements were found in the upper beds, associated with the ordinary cave fauna. A re-excavation of the Robin Hood Cave by Mr. R. Laing, m.r.c.s., f.r. met. soc, of Blyth, Northumberland, in 1885-87, re- vealed the existence of an inner cavern of considerable extent, which had been hidden from the world since the remote Pleistocene age. It contained the teeth and bones of the hippo- potamus, rhinoceros, bison, Irish elk, hyaena, bear, wolf, and boar. The presence of the Hippopotamus in this and the Grundy cave proves the existence in this country at that time of a warm equable climate all the year round, which had cooled down to ardlic severity when the fauna of the Pin Hole and Dog Hole roamed through the frozen valley. The most remarkable discovery was the finding of human bones in this cave, by the same explorer, in the lowest fossiliferous stratum, which, from their stratigraphical and zoological position, belong to the early " River Drift " type of Man, of the Paloeolithic, or unpolished stone age, being the first found in an undisturbed stratum in England, and the first in Great Britain with the exception of a molar tooth from a cave in Cafn, near St. Asaph, in Wales. The cave where these bones were found, named by the finder the " Little John Cavern," was nearly filled with a stony clay, with a layer of red sand above it, continuous with the sand fitting the entrance passage to this cave, and the lowest fossiliferous bed in the front, or Robin Hood's cave. Below the red sand and clay was found the same unfossiliferous white sand, which formed the lowest bed in the other Cresswell caves. The bed of red clay was only found in this and the Mother Grundy Caves, and they are correlated by the ex- istence of remains of the Hippopotamus in both beds, denoting a greater antiquity than the fauna of the other caves ; an antiquity which was shared by Man. Flakes, choppers, and scrapers of a primitive " Acheulien " type were found associated with the above remains. A charred canine of a bear and " pot boilers" pointed to the probable occupation of the cave by Paloeolithic man, and the presence of coprolites proves the same of the hyaena. Mr. Laing also found the remains of a skeleton in the shape of two human bones, (humerus and radius) in the front of Robin Hood Cave, buried in a rude cist of unhewn limestone slabs, and covered up to the roof of the cave in a cairn of stones and earth, which had become thickly- crusted with stalagmite. A finely-chipped flint spear head appeared to be associated with the human remains. The CRESS WELL CRAGS. m cairn stood in a corner over a fissure 21 ft. deep, filled to the top with red sand, the stalagmite covering the earlier Paloeolithic layer having been broken in inserting the upright stones forming the sides of the cist. This was evidently a Neolithic interment of the Polished Stone age. No satisfactory proof has yet been found that systematic interment was practised in the earlier Paloeolithic period. The Dog Hole fissure was discovered by the same ex- plorer in the spring of 1887, and yielded teeth, and bones of the same fauna found by the Rev. J. M. Mello in the Pin Hole fissure. The gnawed condition of the bones, and the presence of numerous coprolites of the cave hyaena prove the Dog Hole and Little John caves to have been hyaena dens. Their exploration is still being proceeded with. STEETLEY CHURCH. $HOSE who delight in scarce relics of ancient architecture, situated in the midst of sylvan scenery should pay a visit to Steetley Church, about two-and-a-half miles westward of Worksop. This choice remnant of early stone Churches has exercised the minds of archaeologists as to whether its architecture is Saxon or Norman. Concerning such a speculation, our intelligent Tourist may be able to form an opinion, after visiting what remains of the structure. The authors of Magna Britannia have given great consideration to this beautiful Tittle ruin, and their description we quote: " The desecrated Church of Steetley" say they "exhibits a very complete specimen of the later and more enriched style of Saxon architecture on a small scale. It is quite entire except the roof. It consists of a nave and chancel, each 26 feet in length ; the east end being circular and vaulted ; the ribs of the arches and the capitals of the half pillows from which they spring, are much enriched with various mouldings, grotesque heads, foliage and other ornaments. A cornice, supported by brackets, ornamented with roses, heads, etc., runs round the upper part of the building on the outside. The circular part at the east end has also a fascia of foliage running round it, about the middle of the building, and is besides enriched with pilasters in the Saxon style. The arch of the south doorway is ornamented with SHIREOAKS. 113 zigzag mouldings and heads ; the shafts of the pillars are covered with sculptured foliage and other ornaments, in the style of the doorway of Ely Cathedral." Though thus described as of Saxon origin, it is now generally maintained that many of the most ancient buildings wherein appear short columns supporting semi-circular arches, ornamented with zigzag mouldings and rude sculptures, and which not many years ago were usually termed Saxon, in reality belong to the adjoining or early Norman period ; a prominent feature — the round-arched style — being the same in each. Steetley was early the property of the Le Bretons, who probably built the chapel about the middle of the twelfth century. It subsequently passed into the hands of the Earls of Shrewsbury, owners of Worksop Manor. Owing to the untiring zeal of the Rector of Whitwell (the Rev. G. E. Mason, m.a.), this choice relic underwent thorough restoration in 1880, under the able direction of Mr. J. L. Pearson, r.a., the result being all that could be desired. The cost thereof amounted to about ^"1,200. The beautiful Steetley stone, which is obtained from extensive quarries near here, is in great request for the construction of ecclesiastical edifices and other important buildings. SHIREOAKS. The name of this village probably originated in a grove or number of oaks, which, from their position, indicated the boundaries of the three counties of Nottingham, York, and Derby. The appellation was perpetuated by a solitary survivor of this grove of trees, which was said to adumbrate with its branches a portion of the three aforesaid counties. This tree is described by Evelyn in his " Sylva," as "standing in the grounds of the late Sir Thomas Hewitt, about a mile from Worksop Park, which ii 4 GATEFORD AND ANSTON. drops into three shires, and the distance from bough- end to bough-end is thirty yards. This circumference will contain 707 square yards, sufficient to shade 235 horses." It is believed to have stood until the beginning of the last century. The village is situated two-and-a-half miles N.W. of Worksop. It is famous for its coal mines, opened out by the fifth Duke of Newcastle, and now worked by the Shireoaks Colliery Company. The foundation stone of the beautiful Gothic Church (erected by the fifth Duke of Newcastle) was laid by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, in 1 861. As a memorial to the noble donor, the chancel has been richly decorated. Shireoaks Hall, adjoining the village, is in the occupation of Mr. George Eddison. The Manor or Grange of Shireoaks was part of Emma de Lovetot's gift to the Prior} 7 of Worksop. After the dissolution of Worksop Priory, and on August 16th, 1548, Henry VIII. granted the Grange or Manor of " Sheroks " to Robert Thorn- hill and Hugh Thornhill. It afterwards passed to the family of Hewitt ; being purchased so early as 1559 by Sir William Hewitt, Lord Mayor of London at that time, and son of Edmund Hewitt of the neighbouring village of Wales. Members of this family resided here for nearly 300 years — till 181 1. It subsequently came into the possession of the Duke of Norfolk, and was eventually purchased by the Duke of Newcastle. GATEFORD HILL, The residence of Henry Vessey Machin, Esq., j.p., is about a mile distant from Shireoaks and a mile- and-a-half from Worksop. The handsome house, with the beautiful and richly-timbered park, presents an imposing appearance as seen from the road. ANSTON STONES. The village of Anston is reputed for its quarries, ROCHE ABBEY. ii5 from which stone was obtained for building the Houses of Parliament. But a very short distance from the village is a deep and romantic ravine, with a little brook warbling wildly down its centre, and with precipitous rocks on either side beautifully clothed in woody verdure. Mysterious caves, caverns and fissures open out here and there, all tending to impart a tinge of the romantic to this wild and picturesque dell. The ever-changing and charming scenery which is pre- sented to the Visitor makes this sequestered vale well worthy of a visit. The Crags are distant about five miles hy road from Worksop ; but the best means of reaching them is by rail to Kiveton Park Station, and thence on foot for about a mile-and-a-half. ROCHE ABBEY. "Years roll on years; to ages, ages yield; Abbots to Abbots, in a line succeed ; Religion's charter their protecting shield, Till royal sacrilege their doom decreed." In an extensive and sequestered valley, about eight miles to the north of Worksop, are situated the picturesque ruins of the once magnificent Abbey of Roche, and the natural attractions of the locality — independent of its historical associations — being such as are rarely surpassed for beautiful scenery and wild grandeur, it is not surprising that each year brings an increasing number of pilgrims to this delightful spot, far from the city's dim, full of sweet dreams of health and pleasant breathing. The Visitor should take the turnpike road through Carlton and Hodsock — a straight road from Worksop — and, having arrived at Oldcotes, thence by the Rotherham road, to the left. As it is approached from Worksop, the scene around is charming in the extreme. There are two valleys, one being at right angles to the other. Through the principal one runs a pretty stream, which is n6 ROCHE ABBEY. fenced in by huge perpendicular crags of white lime- stone rock — of which beautiful material the Abbey was built — which still shield the ruins as they once did the famous Abbey itself. Both valleys are environed by bold wooded heights, and abound in many a waterfall and rippling rivulet, rustic bridge and tree-crowned crag. The sides of the ravine are covered with wild flowers, ferns, and every variety of vegetation in most picturesque luxuriance. Here and there are winding walks leading to picturesque prospects, where, under the verdant bowers formed by the umbrageous branches of the trees around, seats are placed for reposing after having surmounted the steep ascents. 'Tis no wonder that, as Mr. Eddison says, "the nomadic race of the w r ild Zingari, who still prefers the healthful habits and patriarchal life and wanderings of primitive times to the cumbersome yoke and restraints of artificial life, finds many an imitator at Roche," for the situation is one of beauty indescribable, and is admirably secluded for the purpose of pic-nic parties, w T ho can here so easily transform the velvety greensward into an elegant refectory, and enjoy the charms of the scenery which this romantic dell affords. An isolated rock, separated in remote convulsion, has been named the " Table Rock," whilst not far distant is situated a "Wishing Spring." Opposite the Abbey, and on a plateau above, is a beautiful lake, supplied by a stream from the hills around, and abounding in water-fowl. Roche Abbey was formerly occupied by Cistercian Monks, and founded by the lords of Maltby and Hooton, (neighbouring villages) Richard de Busli and Richard Fitz-Turgis, though previous to the erection of the edifice, a colony of the saintly fathers from Dijon, or from some house of the same order already settled in England, sought this sequestered vale and established themselves here, sheltered from the elements by its rocks and wooded heights. Considerable grants of land were ROCHE ABBEY. 117 from time to time made to the Abbey by various per- sons, amongst them being Henry II. — who gave one hundred acres of land near Lindrick — Leo de Manvers, the De Warrens, etc. Various exchanges were made in the estates connected with the monastery during the four centuries in which the house flourished ; it was dissolved in 1538, at the time " bluff Harry turned the cowls adrift," at which date its clear revenue amounted to ^"222 8s. 5d., there being then 17 monks residing there. About six years after the dissolution, Henry VIII. granted the site to William Ramsden and Thomas Vavason. Of the once noble Abbey, a few fragments alone remain to give us a faint impression of its early glory. These picturesque ruins consist of a gateway and some portions of the eastern part of the church. As they rise in solemn grandeur in the romantic defile, amidst the charming surroundings, with that companion of ruins — ivy, fondly clinging to the rich tracery of a bygone age, they present a picture perfectly lovely for the Visitor's contemplation. There are likewise many beauties in these roofless ruins which will commend themselves to the archi- tectural eye, and to the thoughtful study of the Antiquary. The gateway appears to have been the Hos- pitium of the Abbey, and was probably erected for the accommodation of the numerous pilgrims who were attracted here by the discovery of the accidental resemblance of a fragment of the rock to our Saviour. This phenomenon was probably the reason for calling the Abbey "Our Saviour of the Roche." The edifice is believed to have been a cruciform ' structure, and consisted of nave, with two aisles, choir with two chapels on either side, north and south transepts and tower. The total length is supposed to have measured about 200 ft. By command of the noble owner, a thorough and careful exploration of the ruins has recently been effected, and many interesting discoveries made, amongst the most important being the stones n8 OSBERTON. which formed the tracery of the great east window, as well as other beautiful carved work, and a large stone trough, believed to have been used for the holy water. In addition thereto, portions of the w T alls and floors of the transepts and the bases of some of the pillars have been laid bare. The work of exploration is not completed, but when the mass of loose stone and other debris has been cleared away, it is expected that a perfect ground plan of the Abbe} 7 and the domestic buildings will be exposed to view. Sufficient of the remains have, however, already been recovered from their 300 years' burial, to prove that the Abbey of Saint Mary of the Rupe, or of the Rock, formed a 'structure of great magnificence and most noble proportions. For many years the property has been in the hands of the Earls of Scarborough, and by their generosity, this choice relic, standing in such a secluded spot, and so rich in romantic associations, has been preserved for the inspection of the Tourist ; and the remains of so much desolate splendour will tend to conjure up reflections on the mutability of mundane institutions — sic transit gloria mundi. OSBERTON, The residence of Francis John Savile Foljambe, Esq., lies about three miles to the east of Worksop, from which place the stranger has no difficult) 7 in reaching its threshold ; the lodge gates — the entrance to the park, — being, as it were, on the main road from Worksop to Retford. On entering the richly-timbered Park, thriving plantations and fertile pastures meet the eye on every hand ; the oak, the beech, the elm and the larch, in picturesque luxuriance, dot the landscape in ever) 7 direction, whilst the variegated foliage of the surrounding woods tends to enhance the beauteous OSBERTON. 119 The Osberton estate came into the possession of this ancient and highly-esteemed family by the mar- riage of Francis Ferrand Foljamhe, Esq., with the daughter and co-heir of John Thornhaugh, Esq. The Foljambes formerly resided at Aldwark in Yorkshire and Walton in Derbyshire, where they held at various times most important offices under the Crown. The Hall, which is both exceedingly handsome and commodious, underwent, a few years ago, con- siderable alteration and improvement, including the addition of a new wing ; a striking feature of its external appearance is a handsome portico, w T hich is situated at the chief entrance. The Mansion stands on a commanding eminence, and has a carefully-planned and beautiful lake glistening at one of its principal fronts, whilst the sylvan profusion all round is of singular beauty. In the Hall are some fine paintings, many of them being sporting subjects. Spoils of the gun and chase are likewise particularly abundant. Indeed, the interior of the Mansion presents the appearance of what Osberton for generations past has been — the worthy residence of an estimable English 'squire and sportsman. There is a valuable museum of scientific specimens, including a very fine collection of British birds, and amongst other choice relics is a carving in alabaster, representing the assassination of Thomas a Becket, which is believed to have been a part of the altar at Beau- chief Abbey, Sheffield. The pleasure grounds, which are situated between the Hall and the adjoining village or lordship of Scofton, are of considerable extent and beauty, and abound in admirably-arranged parterres, velvety lawns and winding walks. At the extremity of the pleasure grounds is the pretty little Norman Church, erected in 1833 by the late owner, in memory of his wife, the mother of the present possessor of the estate. i2o HODSOCK PRIORY— SERLBY HALL. HODSOCK PRIORY, The residence of Mrs. Mellish, is situated in a valley between Carlton and Blyth, and is distant about 5 miles from Worksop. Hodsock formerly belonged to the families of Cossard, Hoddisac, and Cressy, thence passing to the Markhams and Cliftons, and ab.out the middle of the last century came into the pos- session of the Mellish family. The priory which anciently existed there, was erected about the year 1 100, but scarce a vestige of it now remains. The Hall is a large and handsome building of modern erection, and is surrounded by extensive grounds. The former mansion was defended by a moat and tower gateway, traces of the former yet remaining, whilst the curious old brick gateway still exists, presenting a picturesque appearance to the whole structure. SERLBY HALL, The seat of the Right Hon. the Viscount Galway, stands in a picturesque and well-wooded park, about eight miles north-north-east of Worksop. The present Hall, which was erected in the latter part of the last century, stands on the site formerly occupied by a very ancient mansion. The various apartments contain many fine paintings, in- cluding two portraits by Hans Holbein, of Henry VIII. and Nicholas Kreatzer, his astronomer ; another picture, 12 ft. by 15 ft., representing Charles I. with horses and dogs, by Daniel Mytens, also numerous good examples by Vandyke, Canaletti and other masters. The situation of the mansion is very pleasant, groups of fine old trees studding the spacious park in every direction, whilst the gardens and pleasure grounds are very beautiful. The popular owner is master of the Grove Fox- hounds, and has recently had erected on the estate some commodious and well-arranged kennels. BOLSOVER CASTLE. 121 The hounds often meet on the spacious lawn in front of the house, and the effect produced by the hounds and horsemen — the scarlet coats contrasting with the verdant sward and foliage around — is very pleasing, and probably few have enjoyed that sight more, have heard with keener delight the thrilling melody of the hunter's horn, or have oftener partici- pated in the exhilarating sport which accompanies that sound, than the noble owners of Serlby. BOLSOVER CASTLE, The famous stronghold of the Peverils, and at one time also the princely abode of the Cavendishes, stands about nine miles west of Worksop. William the Conqueror appointed his son William de Peveril governor of the counties of Derby and Nottingham, and of the forty-five Manors granted to him, the Manor of Bolsover was one, and by him probably the Castle was built. The Peverils — whose celebrated fortress situated on the almost inaccessible rock, commanding and overlooking the celebrated and romantic entrance ^j to the Peak Cavern, originated their well-known Jf title of Peveril of the Peak — retained possession of the Manor for three generations. The Castle passed from this family to the Crown about the year 1190. John becoming King a few years later, had it strongly fortified against the rebellious barons, and to this date many of the remaining fortifications may be ascribed. During this king's turbulent reign, it formed a famous stronghold. The barons gained possession of it, , but it was eventually reduced by the Earl of Derby, who thereupon was appointed governor. In 1552, Edward VI. leased the manor to Sir John Byron. It afterwards passed to the Talbots, and thence by purchase to Sir Charles Cavendish, father of the first Duke of Newcastle. The building was then (16 13), in ruins, but was rebuilt by Sir Charles, from designs by Huntingdon Smithson, who 122 BOLSOVER CASTLE. was sent to Italy expressly to collect models for the purpose. King Charles I. was entertained here and at Welbeck on three occasions by the Earl of New- castle on a most magnificent scale. The Earl of Newcastle fortified Bolsover against the Parliamentary troops, but it was eventually surrendered to Cromwell's forces, under General Crawford, in 1644, the Earl fleeing to Antwerp. The fortress was then dismantled and suffered much during the civil wars. After the Restoration, the Earl, by this time created Duke of Newcastle, returned, and endeavoured to restore the shattered building, bat this was only partially carried out, though sufficient was accomplished to form a residence ; and eventually by inter-marriage, this, with Welbeck and other estates, passed to the family of Bentinck. Previous to its surrender and demolition, the Castle constituted a noble pile of buildings ; the old gallery, the ruins of which still remain, measuring 220 ft. long by 28 ft. wide, the dining room 78 ft. - by 38 ft., and the other apartments being on a similar * scale of magnitude. It consists now of two detached buildings, one of which the Castle proper, is the restoration of the ancient Norman fortress. A striking peculiarity is that whilst the modern mansion has been almost completely destroyed, portions of the ancient castle still remain in a fair state of preservation. The interior consists principally of small rooms wainscotted and inlaid and painted ; the ceiling in some cases being richly carved and gilt. The habit- able portion, which was until recently occupied by the Hon. Mrs. Gray, is now tenantless, and the de- serted Castle of other days, though now but a majestic ruin, discloses, amidst all its desolation, the superb style and magnificent proportions of its former self. Of the apartments, the room designated the " Star Chamber," is perhaps the most attractive, though its other rooms, and indeed almost all this HARDWICK HALL. 123 ancient castle and its surroundings, are so quaint and unique, as to prove of great interest to the Visitor. A semi-circular wall of considerable height and width surrounds the Castle. The gardens adjoining, though not large, are exceedingly pretty. Magnificent views, over a wide expanse of country, may be had from the terrace ; whilst from the elevated ground around the Castle the prospect is charming in the extreme. In the Parish Church, which is Norman in style, with a tower surmounted by a short spire, are some beautiful monuments of members of the Cavendish family, including one of Sir Charles and Lady Cavendish, and one of the Duke of Newcastle ; the latter being of a magnificent descrip- tion. There are monuments also of several of the Dukes of Portland, who were buried with their an- cestors in the family vault at Bolsover Church. HARDWICK HALL. This fine old mansion, which has long been one of the favourite seats of the Cavendish family, is now the property of the Marquis of Hartington, heir to the Dukedom of Devonshire, and is situated about four miles south-west of Bolsover, and five miles to the north-west of Mansfield. It stands on a beautiful and commanding eminence, in a lovely park, and is surrounded by some of the most charming scenery of that wild and romantic char- acter for which Derbyshire is celebrated. The Hall is a substantially-built stone structure, and is considered one of the finest examples extant of pure Elizabethan architecture. It was erected by " Bess of Hardwick," in 1587. In form the building is oblong,- with six tall massive towers, and battlemented parapet pierced with scroll-work, and ornamented here and there with the initials of the famous Countess, and a coronet. The principal front measures about 390 feet, surrounding the entrance i2 4 HARDWICK HALL, of which is an ancient and very formal flower garden of the Elizabethan period. Mary Queen of Scots was " detained" at Hard- wick, in the charge of the Earl of Shrewsbury, and the place abounds in reminiscences of this unfortunate queen. The bedroom she occupied, the furniture she used, and tapestry bearing her initials are all pointed out to the Visitor, but it seems scarcely possible that Mary the daughter of Scotland resided in the modern mansion, as its erection was not completed till the year she was beheaded. It is believed that these memorials of her sad imprisonment here were removed from the old and less pretentious hall, which, more probably, was the place of her captivity. Of the noble ruins of this former residence, which are situated but a short distance from the present building, one room is still preserved, and is called the " Giants' Chamber," from the two colossal figures over the chimney- piece. The interior of the mansion comprises many magnificent apartments, the largest of which is the Picture Gallery, measuring 166 feet in length and 41 feet in width. Of the very large number of paintings which this room possesses, are many portraits of the Cavendish family, and amongst others there is one of Mary Queen of Scots, and one of Georgina, the beautiful Duchess of Devonshire, by Gainsborough ; a duplicate of which, it will be remembered, disappeared in a very mysterious man- ner a few years ago, causing considerable sensation. There are also paintings of the Sovereigns of England from the time of Henry IV., of the first Duke of Devonshire, and Thomas Hobbes. Two magnificent chimney-pieces in this apartment are worthy of special attention. The windows of this gallery are said to contain 27,000 panes of glass, which is probably the foundation of the old distich " Hard wick Hall More glass than wall." Of the many other stately rooms, the Presence NEW STEAD ABBEY. 125 Chamber is perhaps the most important. It measures 65 feet in length and 33 feet in width, with height proportionate. This sumptuous apartment is chiefly remarkable for its magnificent Gobelin tapestry. The Library, Grand Staircase, Dining and other rooms, are exceedingly rich in paintings, choice furniture, and various articles de luxe, and will prove a source of much interest to the Visitor, whilst the collection of ancient tapestry contained in them can scarcely be equalled. Gray, the poet, and Horace Walpole, statesman and satirist, visited Hardwick, which was also the abode of Hobbes, the philosopher and reputed infidel. NEWSTEAD ABBEY. Amongst the many interesting places within the bounds of the romantic forest of Sherwood, few possess such claims upon the attention of the Tourist as the abbey-home of Byron ; and indeed few places in the kingdom present so many and such varied features of attraction as the venerable and famous Abbey described by Irving as " one of the finest specimens in existence of those quaint romantic piles, half-castle, half-convent, which remain as monuments of the olden time in England." Newstead Abbey is situated about four miles south-west of Mansfield, and may therefore readily be reached by road ; whilst Linby station, on the Midland Line, is about two-and-a-half miles, and a private station on the same line about a-mile-and- a-half, distant from the Abbey. Permission to alight at the latter station must be procured from the owner of the mansion, W. F. Webb, Esq. The Abbey of Newstead was erected and richly endowed about the year 11 74, by Henry II., and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It was occupied by Black Canons of the order of S. Augustine. King John and succeeding kings confirmed and enlarged the territories and privileges granted to the monks. Along with other religious houses it 126 NEW STEAD ABBEY. was dissolved by Henry VIII., on July ist, 1539, after an existence of 359 years, and was granted by that rapacious monarch to Sir John Byron, of Colwick, Lieutenant of Sherwood Forest, who con- verted the saintly edifice into a castellated dwelling, and it ultimately became his favourite residence. A great grandson and namesake of his, Sir John Byron, who was a staunch adherent of King Charles I., garrisoned Newstead during the civil wars, and for his loyalty was raised to the peerage, in 1643. On the death of King Charles the estates were sequestrated by parliament, but on Charles II. suc- ceeding to the throne, Newstead was restored to the Byrons. The estate suffered considerably at the hands of the fifth Lord Byron (surnamed "the Wicked''), who not only allowed the Abbey and grounds to fall into decay, but destroyed the whole of the majestic timber upon the estate, as well as a noble herd of deer, consisting of 2,700 head. On the death of this notorious character, in May, 1794, the title and estate passed to one whose as- sociation with Newstead has added a celebrity and interest to that venerable pile which ages can never efface — George Gordon Byron, the most famous of modern poets. He was but six years of age when he succeeded to the title, and during his minority the Abbey was occupied by Lord Grey de Ruthyn. When Lord Byron, in 1808, commenced to reside there, he found it in a very dilapidated condition, and at once set about its restoration. In his elegy on Newstead Abbey, how touch- ingly does he deplore its condition, in the following lines : — " Newstead ! what saddening scene of change is thine ! Thy yawning arch betokens sure decay ; The last and youngest of a noble line, Now holds thy mouldering turrets in his sway." During his residence at Newstead the poet's mode of life was characterised by that remarkable eccentricity and unlimited licence which was ever NEW STEAD ABBEY. 127 a striking feature during the whole of his eventful career. The latter part of Lord Byron's life was spent in the chivalrous attempt to regenerate unhappy Greece, which attempts terminated, as all know, in his death in Western Greece, on the 19th April, 1824, at the age of 36. His remains were brought to England, and interred in the family vault at Hucknall Torkard, about three miles from Newstead. After having been in the possession of the Byrons for nearly 300 years, the estate passed by purchase, in 1818, to Colonel Wildman, the poet's friend and schoolfellow, who subsequently laid out immense sums in restoration and adornment, and otherwise strove to raise the ancient pile to some- thing like its former splendour. In 1 861, after the Colonel's death, the estate came into the possession of the present exemplary owner, William Frederick Webb, Esq., who has continued the renovation of the Abbey until it has reached its present grandeur, and who, like his predecessor, has proved a generous conservator of the poet's last wish, and has ever treated with the utmost regard the historic associations of the poet's home. Space does not permit of our attempting to de- scribe the many interesting features which Newstead presents to the appreciative Visitor, but suffice it to say that the venerable Abbey and its hallowed precincls abound in reminiscences of one whose transcendent genius and ardent love of liberty caused his name to resound throughout the civilised world; whilst the magnificent apartments, filled with choice and costly curiosities, fine paintings, antique furniture, etc., though, far too numerous here to particularize, will prove a mine of interest and pleasure to those who visit Newstead. ROBIN HOOD. SjKfiN descanting on the beauties of Sherwood feljj Forest, no description would be complete ajjJs without some reference, however brief, to " the most humane and the prince of all robbers." Enjoying the enviable luxury of roaming about the vast domains of the forest at his own free will, doing and taking whatsoever he thought well, without let or hindrance, Robin Hood has insepar- ably linked his name with that of " Merrie Sher- wood." About the beginning of the thirteenth century, Robert Fitzoothes, of noble lineage, was born at Loxley Chase, near Sheffield. Then, as now 7 , proper names seldom remained long uncorrupted in the hands of the canaille, and in this instance the original Fitzoothes was transformed to Hode, although little analog)' in sound is apparent between the two. This, in the course of time, was further changed to Hood. Robin Hood, he w r as therefore styled, and w T ill continue to be as the centuries roll on. It has been averred, and with some show of reason, that Robin Hood was in reality one of the Earls of Huntingdon, and that his eccentric de- parture from aristocratic life was the outcome of his intense hatred of the Norman oppressors of the Saxons, and that the forest life adopted by him and his " Merrie Men," was, in the words of an able writer, " A positive stand against the dom- inancy of the Normans ; that in fact, his predatory ROBIN HOOD. 129 attacks upon them were but the national efforts of one who endeavoured to remove the proud foot of a conqueror from the neck of his countrymen." He took to the forest fastnesses in Barnesdale, Yorkshire ; Sherwood, Nottinghamshire ; and Plomp- ton, Cumberland, setting king and law at defiance. After a time he gathered around him a hundred boon companions, skilful with bow and arrow, and bold as they were skilled. Amongst the most notorious were " Little John" (surnamed Naylor) ; William Scadlock or Scarlet ; Friar Tuck (chaplain to the bold fraternity) ; and Maid Marian, of whom Robin Hood was enamoured, and who seems to have followed his fortunes in the greenwood. From the most authentic sources we learn that the company only made war upon the rich and the oppressors, and that the poor and needy found in Robin a doughty protector. Be this as it may, the name of Robin Hood has, we believe, for a period well on to 600 years, been regarded rather as a subject for noble admiration than as a target for the arrows of calumny. After indulging in this romantic life for a number of years, and during which a reward had been offered for his apprehension, he betook himself to Kirklees Priory, Yorkshire, in order to be medically treated for his infirmities. As was the custom in those days, and for long afterwards, blood-letting was esteemed a sine qua 11011 in the treatment of ailments, legion in number and often the most diverse in their natures. Unfortu- nately for the hero of Sherwood, the Prioress of the Kirklees establishment not only adopted this questionable remedial means, but, at the instigation of Sir Roger of Doncaster, she treacherously al- lowed her patient to bleed to death ; and this not- withstanding the fact that Robin Hood was her blood-relation, and naturally had every claim upon her affection and mercy. We are told that the bandage applied around Robin's elbow by the Prioress in the first instance had been removed i 3 o ROBIN HOOD. while he slept, resulting in a renewed and contin- uous escape of blood. On aw T aking to consciousness, Robin discovered that he was rapidly bleeding to death, and that his remaining strength was not even now sufficient to enable him to keep up sustained pressure on the bleeding point. With a great effort, however, he reached the door of the apartment, but finding this locked, he suspected that he had been the viclim of foul play. Not- withstanding his ever-increasing exhaustion, we are informed that the poor fellow T contrived to blow three weak blasts from his horn. His old bosom friend Little John — who, not being permitted to enter the Priory, had been anxiously hovering about in the vicinity — hearing the well-known sounds, and apprehending danger, forced his way into the building, and clearing every obstruction, halted not until he had entered the apartment of his dying leader. Naylor was horror-stricken at. the sight, and bursting into tears, besought Robin's permission to summon the outlaw band, with the object: of burning the Nunnery to the ground. To this request, however, Robin would not accede, and the reason for his refusal, and the directions he gave for his interment, are set forth in the following lines : — " I never hurt fair maid in all my time, Nor at my end shall it be ; But take my bent bow in thy hand ; And a broad arrow let thou flee ; And where this arrow is taken up, There shall my grave digged be." The arrow fell near to S. Ann's Well, and Little John, well-nigh heart-broken, carried out the dying washes of his beloved friend in every par- ticular. Thus ended the career of Robin Hood, leaving behind him a name which will be handed down through generations to come, when the monuments of many illustrious men have crumbled to decay, and their memory is entombed in oblivion. THE FLORA OF THE DISTRICT. By the Rev. Hilderic Friend, f.l.s. r JE are greatly indebted to the Rev. Hilderic Friend, Fellow of the Linnaean Society, ^JKf^j^ for the following excellent description of the botanical beauties of Sherwood. Its subjecft-matter will neither be above the comprehension of the gene- ral reader, nor below the interests of the student of Botanical Science, in which department Mr. Friend is a well-known ornament, and to the pathological section of which he has been no mean contributor : — Every season has its charms for the lover of Nature, but there are occasions on which her dress and adornings can be seen to greater perfection and profusion. Hence, while even winter affords abundant opportunities for the study of plants of peculiar interest, spring, summer, and autumn are the seasons in which the eyes are to be feasted, and the senses pleased with a wealth of foliage and blossom. Any Visitor to the district from the " merrie month of May" onward to October, will find a rich profusion of wild plants of various kinds upon which to lavish his admiration, and from which he may derive much pleasure. Some of the plants are rare, others are more or less uncommon, while many of course are cosmopolitan. It must be remember- ed that the Flora of any locality depends largely upon the geology and physical geography. Worksop occupies a central position of unusual interest in this respect. Streams are numerous, and supply us with a great variety of plants, while the banks and waters of the Canal are rich in water- loving species. To the south of the town the sand yields several plants which are almost, if not quite, unknown where there is a different surface soil ; while the limestone and coal-measures to the north and west yield other flowers peculiar to such formations. The earliest flowers include, in addition to those which are common everywhere, the little Adoxa, the green Hellebore, the Celandine — covered in many instances with tw T o or three diseases i 3 2 FLORA OF THE DISTRICT. of unusual interest and beauty — the sweet violet, dog violet, and hairy violet ; the wood anemone, whitlow grass, woodcress and lady smock ; then come the pretty, delicate woodsorrel (Oxalis), Herb-paris, hybrid oxlip — often with curious sporting forms — barren strawberry, with golden rust, the pretty purple-anthered bitter- cress {Card, amava) and other related forms. The common colts- foot, with its bright, golden blossoms, is the harbinger of several plants with yellow flowers, the most noteworthy being the rare Gagea, and the two species of golden saxifrage (Chrysosplenium), which in some sheltered spots are unusually vigorous and beautiful, and the primrose, which is plentiful in some of the woods, though seldom seen on the. sand. The butterbur (Petasites) is common in some parts, and is of special interest to the microscopists, since it is the host of a very rare fungus, which so. far has only been found in one other place in England. As the season progresses, the marsh marigold, (Caltha), goldilocks or wood-crowfoot (R. auricomus), ladysmantle pimper- nel, several of the speedwells, the arum, yellow archangel, blue hyacinth with albino variety, and many other plants come under observation. The shrubs and trees are a special feature in June, when the beauties of the hawthorn, rowan, chestnut, (both edible and horse), beech, elder — with heavy bunches of fragrant bloom — and blackthorn are in their prime, while the famous oaks and birches are then to be seen to perfection. Amongst this group of plants one finds, something later in the year, the cornel or dogwood, spindle-tree (Euonymus), buckthorn, and guelder-rose. The mealy guelder-rose (V. Lantana), is rare, as is also the old man's beard (Clematis Vitalba), but the fact, that they occur in the district is of considerable interest to the student of topographical botany. Several forms of the wild-rose are to be seen adorning hedgerow and woodland ; the barberry with its classical bright is still surviving the farmer's hatchet in a few spots ; the whortleberry, the gooseberry, currant, raspberry, blackberry, straw r berry, and other fruits are common in many of the woods and copses. To give a full list of flowers which may be found during the summer months, when Visitors more particularly frequent this interesting neighbourhood, would be impossible ; we must therefore be content to name those of special interest. By the waterside one may find the common meadow rue (T. flavum), the ivy-leaved crowfoot, and the lesser spearwort, while the long-leaved water buttercup (R. fluitans) comes to great perfection in the stream which flows through the town. In several places, including Anston Crags, the Columbine makes a rich show, while the lily of the valley sheds its fragrance on the woodland air. The yellow water-lily may be said to be fairly common, while the white Nymphaea is to be seen in the Clumber lake and elsewhere. Three species of poppy are found, Papaver dubium and Rhceas being common, Argemone rare. The yellow- sapped celandine or swallow-wort (Chelidonium), is common near some of the villages, and by the streams the purple FLORA OF THE DISTRICT. 133 loosestrife (Ly thrum) rears its noble head. Among the Crucifers we find some interesting forms, the choicest of which, perhaps, is the shepherd's cress (Teesdalia) which delights in the sand, and is abundant where it occurs. On the limestone we find the rock-rose, wild mignonette, milk- wort, bladder campion and knotted spurrey each with its peculiar charm. The ragged robin, red and white campion, and corn- cockle are pretty representatives of the Pink Tribe. A few spots of special interest are to be found in the district by those who wish to work it carefully, and in the autumn par- ticularly these spots will well repay a visit. When we state that in August and September the Grass of Parnassus, the bog pimpernel, knotted spurrey, water-dropwort, carline and stemless thistles, lousewort, teasle, mountain flax, wood everlasting, and lady's tresses are but a few of the special forms, it will be seen that a little leisure may be well employed here. Among the Orchids we have our share of treasures. The spotted form, the bee, fly, and butterfly, the pyramidalis, and others are not uncommon. Solomon's seal occurs but not nearer than Pleasley, probably. To visit the shady woods and waterside once more w r e find the common herb-bennet or avens, with her graceful sisters (rivale and intermedium), the water mint, crisped and other pond weeds, yellow 7 iris, tansy, bay-leaved willow, several species of dock, the greater skull- cap, self heal (Prunella), pennyroyal, gipsy wort, arrowhead, flowering rush, bulrush, reedmace, water plantain, bur-reed and arrow-grass. The crow-garlic is uncommon, while acres of ramsons may be found near Shireoaks, on which two or three interesting diseases find support. Mention must also be made of the occasional appearance of the henbane, and the perennial growth in one place of the valuable but baneful nightshade. The fleabane and ploughman's spikenard (Conyza), the dysentery-weed (P. dysenterica) and sneeze- wort, the yellow corn-marigold and ox-eye daisy are found among the composites, together with the mugwort, cudweed, six species of groundsel or ragwort, the chicory, nipplewort — with at least four forms of micro-disease — the goat's-beard, wall lettuce, and other representatives of that large order. The sheep's scabious (Jasione), hair bell and giant bell-flower are common, while the nettle-leaved species grows at Pleasley— a spot of more than usual interest, though somewhat beyond the bounds of our district. The greater and lesser periwinkles alike occur, but each is somewhat local. The same may be said of the pretty yellow- wort (Chlora), and buckbean (Meny ant lies), gentian (G. Amarella), and two species of centaury, plants of unusual interest. These cannot, however, be regarded as rare, though they are by no means common outside certain limited areas. The bugloss is very common on the sand, while by the waterside the beautiful forget-me-not (M . palustris), often grows in rich profusion. In the w 7 oods we find the curious tooth wort (Lathr^a), in all its vigour, i 3 4 FLORA OF THE DISTRICT. together with the showy foxglove and great mullein, the lesser snapdragon (A. Orontium) and yellow toadflax. The ivy-leaved toadflax is rare, but may occasionally be found on old walls in company with the wall-rue fern and the wall saxifrage (S. tridactylites). The curious wood-sage, the betony, and the bugle (Ajuga), are common. Having glanced briefly at the most striking among the flowering plants, we may turn for a moment to those which are known as Cryptogams — the ferns, grasses, mosses and fungi in particular. Though not rich in ferns, the district supplies some twenty different kinds, including in addition to the common bracken, hartstongue and polypody, the curious adder's tongue, the bladder fern (Cystopteris fragilis) — found in the Crags at Anston — the hard-fern (Blechnum), the spleenwort, and the male- fern. The rare moonwort, (Botrychium) has frequently been stated to grow near Edwinstowe, but there is no recent trustworthy record, and there is evidence that in some Floras the place Rufford has been confused with a person of that name. The club-moss and the marc o-tail, (quite distinct from the common horse-tail), are found here and there, but the former is much more rare than formerly, if report may be trusted. The reed canary-grass, sweet vernal-grass, the cat's-tail grass, Timothy grass, fox-tail grass, mat-grass, soft-grass, (Holms) oat- grass, the pretty melic (M . uniflora), meadow-grass, with the wood species (Poa nemoralis), flote-grass, hard-grass (Schlerochloa), quaxing-grass, dog's-tail grass, fescue-grass, brome and several others are found. While the bog-mosses (Sphagnum) are rare, the walls, rocks, banks, tree stumps and woods supply us with a rich collection. Enclypta is rare but pretty ; three or four species of Polytrichum occur, with several Tortulas and the like ; but as the mosses have scarcely come to be known, as yet, by popular names, it is difficult to speak of them with- out giving an unintelligible list of difficult names. Few districts in the country are richer in Fungi — mushrooms and toadstools as they are usually called. Many of these — as for example the poisonous fly-agaric (A . muscarins) — are very showy ; others are remarkable for their large size, their edible properties, or their microscopical dimensions. The stinkhorn is common, as is also the somewhat similarly-shaped morel. The edible Helvella and the meat-like Fistulina are to be found from time to time, but the lesser stinkhorn (Cynophalliis) is somewhat rare, while the Clathrus has so far eluded our search. The bright Russulas make a lovely show in the autumn under the beech trees, where they are accompanied by many other genera of gilled and porous fungi. Much attention has recently been given to those minute forms of plant life known as micro- fungi, and those who are interested in this subject could scarcely find a richer district than this. Parasitic forms are found on various species of buttercup, on the anemone, adoxa, campion and polygonum blossoms, wheat, various grasses, and a host of other plants. FLORA OF THE DISTRICT. 135 In conclusion we give the names of two or three unusually interesting plants for the specialist. Among the phanerogams we find Parnassia polustris, Atropa Belladonna, Claytonia perfoliata, and the henbane casually ; the bee and fly orchids, the buckbean, columbine Cardamine amara, Butomus umbellatus, Anthyllis, Lily-of- the-Valley, spurge-laurel plentiful in some places, money-wort, buckhorn plantain, Primula variabilis, rose-bay, water-lily, bog pimpernel, golden saxifrage (two species), yellow archangel and woodruff. Considerable interest attaches to the fad that a new British alga has recently been found {Hildenbrantia rivularis) at Elksley, Anston, and Carlton, and to this we add Chondrioderma Cookei, Rost., a rare micro-fungus found on the butterbur. (Petasites), Puccinia Campanula, Ramularia Lapsance, Podisoma Sabince, the three species of Rcestelia, a great variety of Cluster-cups and many other plants. For further details we must of course refer to the lists which have been published elsewhere. Enough has been said to shew that the district will not only afford pleasure to the casual observer of. Nature, but will also find the specialist a good deal of really valuable and interesting work. RAMBLES AND RIDES THROUGH SHERWOOD. DRIVES. On the accompanying Map is indicated, by a dark line, the most comprehensive tour for Visitors who are obliged to limit their visit to one day. For those who intend to make a length- ened sojourn, the following list of tours through Sherwood Forest will be found of service. It is compiled for the assistance of strangers, and the distances are computed from the town of Worksop. i. — To Clumber, v ia Park street. Leaving Clumber House, pass the bridge over the Lake, to Xormanton Inn, thence by Hardwick and Manton. Circuit n miles. 2. — To Thoresby, via Clumber; thence by "Buck Gates" and Bilhagh to Budby and Carburton. Circuit 19 miles. 3. — Same as Xo. 2. to " Buck Gates," thence to Ollerton, Rufford Abbey, Edwinstowe, " Major Oak," Budby and Carburton. Circuit 25 mihs. 4. — To Cresswell Crags and Markland Grips, returning by Whitwell and Darfoulds. Circuit about 12 miles. 5. — To Welbeck by turnpike, through short tunnel, thence to Cresswell Crags, Markland Grips and Whitwell. Circuit about 14 miles. 6. — To Checker House by turnpike, thence over railway crossing, via Apley Head to Xormanton Inn and Clumber House, and return through park. Circuit about 17 miles. 7. — To Clumber, thence by Carburton Lakes to Cuckney and Welbeck, and return through short tunnel and by turnpike. Circuit about 14 miles. 8. — To Roche Abbey via Carlton, Oldcoates. and Firbeck Hall, returning by Anston, Lindrick, and Gateford. Circuit about 20 miles. PLEASANT WALKS. 137 9. — Same as No. 8, but after passing Firbeck Hall, proceed through Sandbeck Park to Roche Abbey, about 22 miles. 10. — To Bolsover Castle by Cresswell Crags and Elmton, returning by Cuckney and Welbeck. Circuit about 22 miles. 11. — To Hodsock Priory by Carlton, returning by Blyth — or vice versa. Circuit about 15 miles. 12.— To Osberton by Kilton and Rayton, returning by Scofton and Thievesdale-lane ; about 9 miles. Or to Osberton by Manton and turnpike — similar distance. 13. — To Hard wick Hall and Bolsover Castle. Train to Mansfield, from which Hard wick is seven miles. Arrangements for vehicles to perform the journey from the Swan Hotel, Mansfield, can be made at the Lion Hotel, Worksop. 14. — To Newstead Abbey. Train to Mansfield. Take conveyance at Swan Hotel, Mansfield, where tickets to view the Abbey on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays may also be obtained ; or the journey may be made by train to Linby (2! miles from the Abbey. Distance 4 miles from Mansfield. In compiling the above list of Drives, our endeavour has been to so arrange them as to embody within their limits the chief features of attraction. The routes are, however, as susceptible to change as the tastes of Tourists are varied. A reference to the pages of the Guide and to the accompanying Map will doubtless readily enable the Visitor to decide upon the choice of routes. — See page 4 (Introductory). PLEASANT WALKS. i. — Proceed up Sparken Hill, about ij miles from town take carriage road to left through wood to Trueman's Lodge gates, straight to Clumber, thence along road to right, over bridge and direct to Patrick's Lodge, then turn to left and continue along the border lane till you emerge into broad road, where turn again to left, and you immediately see sign of Normanton Inn, having passed which continue straight to Checker House railway station ; circuit about 10 miles. 2. — Same as above, to Normanton Inn, straight road past Apley Head lodge till you arrive at five cross roads, here take first turn to left between woods, and thence via Manton Lodge, near which turn to right and continue via Manton farm, straight to Worksop ; circuit about 12 miles ; or after arriving at Apley Head lodge, turn through gates and proceed down avenue, until, arriving at first cross roads, you turn to right along avenue, and through wood and Manton Lodge gates, and thence via Manton to Worksop ; circuit about 11 miles ; or after passing through Apley Head lodge gates, proceed to extremity of avenue, where turn to right and along road and through Trueman's Lodge gates on to turnpike, and straight to Worksop ; circuit about 12 miles. 138 PLEASANT WALKS. 3. — Same as No. 1 to Trueman's Lodge gates, but instead of passing through them, take path to left through wood, until telephone wire is reached, which follow along footpath to Worksop ; circuit about 5J miles. 4. — Same as No. 1 to Patrick's Lodge, where turn to right, and continue along border lane till turnpike is reached, where again turn to right, and follow telegraph wire along turnpike to Worksop ; circuit about 11 J miles. 5. — Down Westgate, take first turn to left called " Slack Walk," and continue along road and footpath over fields, past Castle farm, then through wood to South Lodge near entrance to Welbeck tunnel, where turn to left along " Drinking Pit " lane, till turn- pike road is reached, where turn to the left again and proceed straight to Worksop ; circuit about 6 miles. 6. — Same as No. 5 to tunnel entrance, but turn to right along broad lane till Mansfield turnpike is reached, where turn to right again and continue direct to Worksop ; circuit about 7 miles. 7. — Same as No. 5, but proceed through tunnel, and bear to the right ; after leaving tunnel, take road to right, cross turnpike, and continue straight to Cresswell Crags, and through village to Markland Grips, and back by rail from Cresswell ; Cresswell is distant about 5 miles. 8. — Along Carlton road, over railway crossing, straight for about 3j miles to Carlton ; take first road to left in Carlton as far as Mill, near which a footpath conducts you across fields to Gate- ford, thence straight road to Worksop : circuit about 7 miles. 9. — Same as No. 8 to Carlton, through which proceed to North Carlton till you arrive at the green, where take first road past two small old stone houses to Hodsock Priory, thence by road to right, along which proceed for about a mile till you reach turnpike, where again turn to right, and continue straight to Worksop ; circuit about ti miles. 10. — Along Carlton road, and having crossed railway, take first turn to right, up Blyth road, and continue till small plantation near farm house is reached, where turn to right and pass Kilton wood on left, under railway arch and along Kilton road to Worksop ; circuit about 4 miles. 11. — Under Priory Gatehouse and along Kilton road (to the right) and shortly turn to left under railway arch, and along Blyth road, passing Kilton Wood on right, and continue past large house and grounds (Forest Hill) on left, until 4 cross roads are reached, where take one to the right (a grassy lane), and proceed for about 1^ miles till you reach lodge at entrance of Osberton Park. Here turn to left up " Hundred Acre" lane, and you will emerge into Blyth road, where turn to left again and proceed straight to Worksop ; circuit about 8 miles. Or, shortly before arriving at Osberton Park lodge, take bridal path on right and across fields to end of Kilton wood, whence proceed as in case of No. 10 to Worksop; circuit about 7 miles. PLEASANT WALKS. 139 12. — Same as No. 11 to Osberton Park lodge, ask to enter through gates, and continue through park to Scofton, where take road to right and continue over fields and road by Rayton, and having passed under railway arch near Kilton farm, immediately turn to right, and shortly again to left, over canal bridge and along Cheapside to Worksop ; circuit about 9 miles. 13. — Along Retford road for about 3 miles, where on the left is entrance to Osberton Park, through gates of which ask to enter, and proceed straight along road till you arrive near to the Hall, where turn to left through gate, and proceed along side of canal and across fields to Scofton, whence return to Worksop as described in No. 12 ; circuit about 8 miles. 14. — Along Sandy Lane to Woodend, take road to right, over railway bridge and across railway, to Gateford Common, turn to left and along road through Shireoaks Wood, past Colliery, to railway station, thence past church, over style on right near mill, along footpath over fields to canal "lock" near turnpike, which latter take as far as brickyards, thence over steep canal bridge, turn round and go under bridge, along towing path for short distance, over s tiles on right to turnpike leading to Worksop ; circuit about 6 miles. 15. — Along Chesterfield road and take first turn to right called " Stubbing lane " and follow footpath until canal is reached, where turn to left and over bridge to the right ; then turn to left again and pass Woodend, and under railway bridge, just after passing which is canal " lock," which cross, and proceed along side of wood, over stile and along path to Shireoaks ; directly after passing church, turn to left and enter by gate on the left, pass Shireoaks Hall, turn to right and thence straight to Scratta Wood, by Dumb Hall, down lane to Steetley Chapel, whence continue till Chesterfield road is reached, where take road to left and straight to Worksop ; circuit about 6 miles. 16. — Walk to Shireoaks as described in No. 15, or by train (2J miles), cross railway at station, and down lane to Brancliffe Grange, Moses' seat, Lindrick Dale, and Anston Stones, whence proceed to Kiveton Park Station ; or from Anston Stones by turn- pike direct to Worksop. Anston to Worksop, 6 miles; Anston to Kiveton Park, about ij miles ; Kiveton Park to Worksop by rail, 4J miles. 17. — Train to Kiveton Park Station (4J miles), walk to Thorpe- Salvin and Netherthorpe by Scratta W T ood and Dumb Hall, thence as described in No. 15. 18. — Along Chesterfield road, turn through gate to right just past Mill, and along Dam side, past Manor Cottage, and over fields and stiles till road is reached, where turn to right, pass Lodge Farm, on to Lady Lee quarry, down lane to Haggonfields, turn to left and pass under railway bridge, and continue past Magnesia Works and Steetley stone quarries for a short distance, till on the right you see farm house, with Steetley Chapel, amidst trees, close by ; continue along road till Chesterfield turnpike is reached, where turn to left, and continue straight to Worksop ; circuit about 6 miles, A CELEBRATED COUNTESS. DESCENT OF THE " DUKERIES ' OWNERS. AND THEIR |ESS of Hardwick" was the familiar sobriquet of Elizabeth, Countess of Shrewsbury, one of the most remarkable women who have ever created a sensation in fashionable society. As her history is intimately connected with that of the noble houses which have been reared in the heart of Sherwood, a brief biography of the Countess may not be out of place, and will afford some pleasure to the reader as he pursues his tour through the " Dukeries." Elizabeth was the daughter of Squire Hardwick, of Hardwick, in Derbyshire ; and in 1534, when she was only 14 years old, she married Robert Barley of Barley, in Derbyshire. Not long after, he died, leaving his widow a large interest in his estates, which descended to his heir. Her widowhood lasted 12 years, when she became the wife of Sir William Cavendish, who had already been married twice. His possessions were in Hertfordshire, but the indomitable will and fascinating charms of the widow Barley prevailed upon him to sell these and purchase Chatsworth. Lady Cavendish seems to have been imbued with a love of building houses, and it is probably due to the development of this taste to an extraordinary degree that we owe the existence of the magnificent mansions within the precincts of Sherwood Forest. There was an old house at Chatsworth, but Bess of Hardwick determined that it should be demolished. This took place, and Sir William set about building a new one, which, however, was not finished when he died, and its completion rested in the hands of his widow, by whom he had issue three sons and three daughters. For a third time, she married Sir William St. Loe, Captain of the Guard to the Queen. Her influence over this gallant officer was such that he so far disinherited his own family as to settle upon her his estates. George Talbot, sixth Earl of Shrewsbury, was the next who fell within the wiles of this wonderful woman. He was perhaps the most important nobleman in the kingdom, still, without stipulation, Bess of Hardwick declined to bestow her fair person upon him. She Elizabeth, Countess of Shrewsbury. (From a Painting at Welbeck Abbey). 142 DESCENT OF THE "DUKERIES." insisted upon two matches between the Earl's heir and her daughter, Mary Cavendish, and between her son and his daughter, as the price of her own hand. The Earl, however, was captivated by her bewitching charms, and they were married. Shortly after- wards, he became the guardian of Mary Queen of Scots ; and with the foibles of two such imperious women his attention must have been well occupied. He succumbed in 1590, the Countess sur- viving him 17 years. William Cavendish, her second son, was created Baron Cavendish ; his great grandson becomiDg Duke of Devonshire. With the children and grand-children of this celebrated Countess, the pedigrees of the Dukes of Newcastle, Fortland, Devonshire and Norfolk, and the Earl Manvers are closely con- nected, and we purpose tracing them briefly, commencing with the DESCENT OF THE DUKE OF NEWCASTLE.— Another son of Bess of Hardwick was Charles Cavendish, who bought the Estates of W T elbeck and Bolsover. His son was raised to the peerage as Baron Ogle and Viscount Mansfield in 1620, and Earl, Marquis and Duke of Newcastle, in 1644. He was a strong partisan of Charles I. during the time of the civil war, and was one of his most skilful and devoted commanders. His literary effort on "Horsemanship" has also made him famous, and the capacious old Riding School at W'elbeck was erecled by him. His son Henry, married the daughter of W 7 illiam Pierrepont, of Thoresby, and dying without male heirs, in 1691, the dukedom became extinct. He left several daughters, however, one of whom — Lady Margaret — married John Holies, Earl of Clare, and the dukedom was revived in his favour, in 1691. This nobleman was made warden of Sher- wood, and was empowered to enclose land at Clumber for royal purposes. He had an only daughter, Lady Henrietta Cavendish Holies, who married the Earl of Oxford ; therefore the Duke left his Clumber property to Thomas, Lord Pelham, his sister's son, who took the name of Holies, and was descended, through the Pierreponts from Bess of Hardwick. The Pelhams at this time were very powerful in the government of the country. Thomas Pelham Holles was created Duke of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, in 1715. His brother Henry was subsequently Prime Minister, and it was to his heirs that the title was to descend with special remainder. The statesman died without male heirs, and a fresh patent of the dukedom of Newcastle-under-Lyme with remainder to the heirs of his sister Lucy, was granted to Thomas Pelham Holles. Lucy Pelham married Henry Clinton, Earl of Lincoln, whose ancestor was Chamberlain of Normandy. His three sons came over to England with the Conqueror, who conferred the lordship of Clinton or Climton (in Oxfordshire) on one of them, Renebald, whose descendant married Lucy Pelham. By him she had George and Henry, eighth and ninth Earls. Henry succeeded to the Earldom on his brother's death, and married Catherine Pelham, daughter of the statesman, Henry Pelham. On the demise of his uncle, Thomas Pelham Holles, in 1768, he came into the title as second Duke of Newcastle-under-Lyme. DESCENT OF THE "DUKERIES." 143 Thomas Fiennes Pelham Clinton, third Duke and tenth Earl, son of the second Duke, married the daughter of William, Earl of Harrington. His Grace was a lieutenant-general in the army, and, as Earl of Lincoln, was elected m.p. for Westminster, in 1774, and in 1781 for East Retford. He was succeeded by his son, Henry Pelham Pelham-Clinton, fourth Duke, kg., who married Georgina, daughter of Edward Miller Mundy, Esq., of Shipley. He died in 1851, and was succeeded by his son, Henry Fiennes Pelham-Clinton, fifth Duke, who was born in 181 1. He married Lady Susan Douglas, only daughter of the tenth Duke of Hamilton and Brandon. The fifth Duke will best be remembered as a high-minded statesman, who was placed in a very difficult position during the Crimean war. He was m.p. for South Notts., in 1832, and subsequently for the Falkirk Burghs. He succeeded to the Dukedom in 1851, and in Lord Aberdeen's administration became Colonial Secretary and Secretary for war. He died suddenly, on October 18th, 1864, and was succeeded by his son, Henry Pelham Alexander Pelham-Clinton, who was m.p. for Newark. The sixth Duke married, in 1861, Henrietta Adela, daughter of Henry Thomas Hope, Esq., of Deepdene, Surrey ; he died in February, 1879, leaving his son and heir, Henry Pelham Pelham Archibald Douglas, who was born on the 22nd September, 1864. A long minority was therefore before the seventh Duke, before he succeeded to the estates. His coming of age was celebrated with great rejoicings in April, 1886, and by his speeches on that occasion, and his subsequent public career, he has given strong evidence that he will ever keep before him the spirit of the family motto : "Loyaulte n % a honte " — Loyalty knows no shame. DESCENT OF THE DUKE OF PORTLAND.— As we have seen in the pedigree of His Grace the Duke of Newcastle, the direct descendant of Elizabeth, Countess of Shrewsbury, in the person of Lady Henrietta Cavendish Holies, married Edward Harley, second Earl of Oxford. They had an only daughter, Lady Margaret, who married William Bentinck, second Duke of Portland. Her portion of her grandfather's property comprised Welbeck and Bolsover, the former of which henceforth became the seat of the Dukes of Portland. The Bentincks are descended from a noble and ancient family which flourished for many generations in the province of Overyssel, in the Netherlands. The first who established himself in England was high in the confidence of William of Orange, who employed him in many delicate affairs of state. When William and Mary came to the throne of England, William Bentinck was created, in 1689, Earl of Portland, with other titles. The Earl's son was made Marquis of Titchfield and Duke of Portland in 1716, and the latter's son, the second Duke, acquired Welbeck, as we have seen, through the hand of Lady Margaret Cavendish Harley. From these progenitors the title and estates have dire&ly descended to their heirs. 144 DESCENT OF THE "DUKERIES:' The third Duke was Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, and twice Prime Minister of England. . He married the only daughter of the Duke of Devonshire, and was succeeded by his eldest son, William Henry Cavendish Scott Bentinck, fourth Duke, born 1768 ; he married Henrietta, eldest daughter of Major- General John Scott, a descendant of Baliol and Bruce, the Scot- tish heroes. Of this marriage there were four sons and six daughters, one of whom was Lady Charlotte, who married Mr. Speaker Denison, afterwards Viscount Ossington. The Duke died in 1854, in the 86th year of his age, and was succeeded by his son, William John Cavendish Scott Bentinck, born in 1800. He died, unmarried, in December, 1879, and was succeeded by his cousin William John Arthur Charles — son of Arthur, brother of the fourth Duke — the present Duke of Portland, who was born in 1857, and whose kindness of heart and nobility of mind have made him one of the most popular peers in the country. The family motto is " Craignez honte " — Fear disgrace. DESCENT OF EARL MANVERS.— Robert Pierrepont was a General in the Conqueror's army, and derived his name from the castle of Pierrepont, in Picardy. One of his descendants married Annora de Manvers, of Holme Pierrepont, in this county. For many generations the Pierreponts were notable personages, and figured prominently in all the national events of the 14th and 15th centuries. It is probably through "Bess of Hard wick' ' that Thoresby was brought into the Pierrepont family. Henry Pierrepont married Frances Cavendish, eldest daughter of the famous Countess by her second husband, Sir William Cavendish. From the issue of this marriage came Robert Pierrepont, who, in 1627, was created Baron Pierrepont and Vis- count Newark. He gave substantial help to Charles I., and was Lieut. -General of the King's forces. In 1628, he was advanced to the dignity of Earl of Kingston. He was killed while crossing the Humber, in 1643, by an accidental shot. His eldest son Henry followed, and on his death the Earldom devolved on Robert, third Earl, grandson and heir of Henry's brother. He was successively followed by his two brothers, William and Evelyn ; the latter being created Marquis of Dorchester in 1706, and Duke of Kingston-upon-Hull, in 1715. He married Lady Mary Fielding, daughter of the Earl of Denbigh, by whom he had three daughters (one of them being the celebrated Lady Mary W T ortley Montagu), and one son. He also married a daughter of the first Earl of Portland. His son died without succeeding to the Duke- dom, but left a son Evelyn, who came into it on the death of his grandfather. On the demise of the second Duke, the titles became extinct, but he had an only sister, Lady Frances Pierrepont, who married, in 1734, Philip Medows, Esq., third son of Sir Philip Medows, Knight Marshal of the Palace. By this marriage there was Charles, upon whom devolved the estates of his uncle Evelyn, the second Duke. Charles assumed the name of Pierrepont, and was created Baron Pierrepont, of Holme Pierrepont, and Viscount Newark in DESCENT OF THE "DUKERIES." 145 1796, and Earl Manvers in 1806. Upon his death in 1816, he was succeeded by his son, Charles Herbert, who married a daughter of Anthony Har- dolph Eyre, Esq., of Grove Park, Notts. Of this marriage there was issue: Charles Evelyn, Viscount Newark, who married Emily, daughter of Lord Hatherton, was m.p. for Retford and Bassetlaw, and died, without children, in 1850; Mary Frances, who married E. C. Egerton, Esq. ; Annora Charlotte, who married Charles Wat- kin Williams Wynn, Esq., and Sidney William Herbert, Viscount Newark, who w 7 as born on March, 12th, 1825, and became m.p. for South Notts. The last-named married on the 15th June, 1852, Mademoiselle Georgiana Jane Elizabeth Fanny, daughter of the French Due de Coigny, and succeeded to the title, as third Earl Manvers, in i860. He is known as a most benevolent nobleman and considerate landlord. His eldest son, Charles William Sydney, Viscount Newark, m.p. for the Newark division, was born August 2nd, 1854. He married Miss Shaw Stewart, daughter of Sir Michael Shaw Stewart. The family motto is a play on the family surname : " Pie repone te " — In piety confide. Thus it has been shown how the families of four dukes, viz. : Devonshire, Newcastle, Portland, and Kingston are descended from "Bess of Hardwick," Countess of Shrewsbury. There is yet an- other Duke who claims her as an ancestress. Her third daughter, Mary Cavendish, married Gilbert Talbot, seventh Earl of Shrews- bury. On the eighth Earl dying without issue, the manorial proper- ties descended with the daughter of the seventh Earl, one of whom, Lady Alethea, married Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel, heir to the Dukedom of Norfolk. This was how the Worksop Manor Estate came into the hands of the family of Howard, from whom it passed, in 1840, by purchase, to the Duke of Newcastle. CONCLUSION. filN offering some concluding remarks to the reader, |jg we cannot do better than adopt the words of a QjP writer of a past generation: — "When we traverse Y in unrestrained freedom the pleasure grounds of the nobility, we are too often inclined to forget, amid our independent feelings as Englishmen, how much we are indebted to their generous liberality. In society or in solitude I have rambled over some of the sweetest portions of this parish, but never with- out a feeling of gratitude towards the owners of the grounds over which I passed. Indeed, I should little envy the mind of that man, who, in traversing this extensive "Dukery," should suffer his pleasure to be lessened by one transient emotion of envy or discon- tent from the knowledge that these immense estates were the property of four or five illustrious individ- uals." Let us add the hope that the admiring visitor will duly appreciate the magnanimous spirit of gene- rosity which animates the chiefs of these famous houses. It needs but the gentlest reminder to make the tourist take care not to commit any acls of dam- age or disorder, which would cause the high-minded noblemen regret, or their courteous retainers unneces- sary trouble. It can but be the wish of all right- thinking citizens to see the remains of the once noble forest, with its stately baronial homes, maintained as the pride and glory of England ; and no better cus- todians, than these distinguished families, could be found for preserving the "beauties of Sherwood." PRIVATE HOTEL ACCOMMODATION. FOHEST H OUSE , \ EDWINSTOWE. $ In the very midst of this salubrious and interesting district. (See annexed Maps). C. NAISH, Proprietor. P RIYATE SITTING ROOMS. Terms, Moderate. GOOD STABLING. LOCK-UP COACH-HOUSE. -!■ *b=i c=h~&~H=i tzEH •! CONVEYANCES of every description supplied to order. C. N. desires to advise intending Visitors to the "Dukeries" and " Merrie Sherwood " of the following important advantages : — ^ppDWINSTOWE being situated in the heart of this jjrjjfli beautiful and unrivalle ed woodland scenery, and just midway of the Drive usually taken, and where the horses are baited, presents at once, to Pleasure Parties and Tourists, the most desirable facilities for pro- longing their stay. IS 5 " N.B. — C. N. is privileged by the different Noblemen in the neigh- bourhood to hold Keys and Passes for the Private Park and Forest Drives, which secures to his patrons the opportunity of enjoying their visit under the most favourable conditions. Postal Address : " C. NAISH, EDWINSTOWE, NEWARK:' Telegraphic Address: "NAISH, EDWINSTOWE, OLLERTON ." HQQSQN BROS-, IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN if* W /fT* /A\ W IP! J (WHOLESALE & RETAIL), MARKET PLAGE, WORKSOP, Have pleasure in calling attention to their selected Brands for Home Consumption : The "NEWCASTLE" BRAND, A rich and choice fragrant Cigar, much appreciated and highly recommended. The "SHERWOOD RANGERS" BRAND, A compact, well-made Cigar, for in or out-door consumption, full flavour and mellow. MILD & PALE ALES, BITTER BEER & STOUT, Produced from the finest Malt and Hops, in large and small Casks, from their well-known Sheffield Breweries : SEASON-MADE MALT, FRESH GROUND. HOPS OF THE FINEST QUALITY. Offices & Stores : MARKET PLACE, WORKSOP. Maltkilns: EASTGATE, WORKSOP. Park and Whitehouse Breweries: SHEFFIELD. IF YOU WANT A GOOD GO TO H. KNQWXJSS 3 PH TOGBAPHIC AB TIS T, -<¥*** CATTLE MARKET, WORKSOP. ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ Per Doz. Bust Vignettes from . 12/- Crayon Drawings (each) 10/- Oil Paintings (each) . 25/- Per Doz, Cartes-de-Visite from 4/- Bust Vignettes do. 5/- Cabinets . . do. 10/- PHOTOGRAPHY in all its Branches.— + Cresswell Crags and the " Wonders of Welbeck," P ORTLAND ffOTEL, Caswell (Three Minutes' Walk from Elmton &> Cresswell Railway Station). T, PALMKH, PROPRI3GT.OH. Being within 5 Minutes' walk of the Celebrated and Beautiful Cresswell Crags, and within easy distance of Welbeck Abbey and Park, the wonderful seat of His Grace the Duke of Portland, it is conveniently situated for Visitors, who will find every accommodation. Dinners and Teas provided A Large Dining Room. CONVEYANCES SUPPLIED BY APPOINTMENT. Good Stabling. *5s~ (Near the "Major" Oak, and in the midst of the Forest.) EEUBEN PERRY, PBOPHIKTOK, BEGS to draw the attention of those who wish to visit this _J beautiful and interesting neighbourhood, to the first-class ac- commodation which is afforded at the above-mentioned hotel. DINNERS, LUNCHEONS, TEAS, ftc, PROVIDED. Private Rooms for Families. First-class Loose Boxes and Loch -tip Coach Houses. tisr* R. P. desires to point out the Advantages which Visitors have who stay here : — YJ^DWINSTOWE being in the centre of this Picturesque District, aJ| and quite close to the Forest, Visitors can be provided (just where and when refreshments are usually wanted) with all they require, and instead of being hastily driven to and from the neigh- bouring Towns, as is usually the case, they can enjoy at their leisure the pretty walks and scenery which the Forest affords. Those who desire to make a prolonged stay are afforded every accommodation, and with the salubrious situation of Edwinstowe, and the home comforts to be found at the " Royal Oak," they will assuredly have a health-promoting and pleasant visit. P3" JUST PUBLISHED.— PRICE 1/- (Post Free, 1/2). wrf A COMPLETE k^ New Album OF THE "DUKERIES," WORKSOP, AND SHERWOOD FOREST, CONTAINING — 18 BEAUTIFUL VIEWS WELBECK, CLUMBER, THORESBY, SHERWOOD FOREST, INCLUDING THE FOLLOWING : — MAJOR OAK, ! BOLSOYER, CRESSWELL CRAGS, WORKSOP MANOR, ABBEY CHURCH, RUFFORD, WORKSOP, &c, &c. Enclosed in Handsome Cover. Price One Shilling. The NEWSPAPERS say of this Publication: :at majority of Photographs." Souvenir." — Sheffield Telegraph. ' Puperior to the great majority of Photographs." "A most interesting T he best Local Album we have seen." "A Marvel of Cheapness.' — Doncaster Gazette. May be had of SISSONS & SON, SOLE PUBLISHERS, 8, POTTER STREET, WORKSOP FAIRWEATHER'S NEURALGIC and pUMATIC HUNDREDS who are attacked with Rheumatism or Neuralgia, jump at the conclusion that they are '"W ' suffering from Tooth-ache, and, without giving the matter a moment's reflection, hasten to have the supposed offending member removed, thus most unnecessarily depriving themselves of a tooth or teeth, which can never be replaced, and worse than all, the loss of which CANNOT POSSIBLY MITIGATE THEIR SUFFERINGS. Rheumatism or Neuralgia in the Face, may be known from Tooth-ache by its appearing in several teeth at once, by excruciating pains shooting and darting to and fro about the ear, orbit of the eye, cheekbone, jaw-bone, or teeth, by its seldom or never attacking both sides of the face at once, and by being worse at night when in bed. It is highly important to be known that the not unnatural belief that there is no cure for these maddening pains is an erroneous one. There is a cure, a speedy cure, and the greatest martyr to that terrible malady need not suffer many hours. One trial of this far-famed "Specific" satisfies the most sceptical, and soon eases the most racking pains. tS- Sold in Bottles at 1/-, or Carriage Paid, 1/6, FROM JuLJca JUXtUUr JLVl ixXx, X 3 VICTORIA SQUARE, WORKSOP. TO VISITORS, TOURISTS. AND PIC-NIC PARTIES. Four-in-Hand Brakes, Landaus, Wagonettes, &c. For the Best Turn-out for large or small Parties and further particulars, &c, apply to CASTLE & SONS, HORSE & CARRIAGE PROPRIETORS, ~*fe " VICTORIA SQUARE, WORKSOP. » "i ■ « < ! »- ♦ ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦<*♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ ♦ *♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦-♦ ES" C. 6- 5. fog to draw the attention of intending Visitors to the following advantages which they can offer to their Patrons : By kind permission of the various Noblemen, Castle & Sons have the privilege of holding KEYS and PASSES, thus enabling their Patrons to visit all the Private Drives, &c. Luncheons, Dinners, Teas, &c, &c, provided at Worksop, Edwinstowe, Ollerton, or Normanton Inn, thus enabling Parties to spend the whole of the day in the Forest. PHOTOG-BAPHS — OF Sherwood Forest and the "Dukeries." SISSONS & SON, H POTTER ST., WORKSOP, AVING made arrangements with one of the most renowned Photographers in the Kingdom, to secure views of the leading places of interest in this district, desire to notify that they have now in Stock a large and complete selection of the most beautifully-executed Photographs ever taken of this neighbourhood, including views of The Interiors and Exteriors of Noblemen's Mansions, FOREST SCENERY, FAMOUS OAKS, &c. FOR LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHS SEE OPPOSITE ^ Special attention is requested to their new OPAL PICTURES (Photographed on Porcelain), with brass stand, complete. Cabinets, 2/6 each. Some of the Landscape Views of this District, on Porcelain, have a most beautiful and charming effect. ALL ORDERS FROM THE LIST WILL RECEIVE PROMPT ATTENTION. S. & S. have made arrangements for supplying a series of elegant Morocco Albums, richly gilt, and containing a selection of Photographs, forming most handsome volumes for Presentation, or for the Drawing- Room Table. tS~ These are particularly suitable for Wedding Presents and Birthday Gifts. Any of the Photographs may be chosen, and any number of them mounted into Books to order. Owing to the exceeding frailty of un-mounted Photographs, they cannot bt ■ sent out on approval. L6»r2Q The following is a LIST OF VIEWS, for any of which SISSONS & SON will be pleased to receive orders. Imp' I Cab't Size. Size. 12x8 8x5 •6640 6640 6550 6551 6619 6624 6644 6622 6623 6555 6556 6560 6561 6557 6558 6559 6620 6553 6552 6563 6567 Gatehouse and Abbey Church Worksop H est Front, Abbey Church Abbey Chubch, Wokksop : — From S. W. From N.E. Lady Chapel Interior, looking W. „ looking E. Welbeck Abbey : — From Boat House West Front From West Entrance Hall Gothic Hall Music Room Picture Gallery Chapel Library and Chapel Riding School Tan Gallop Approach to the Tunnel Inside Palm House The Rosery Cresswell Crags, Welbeck The 'Porter' Oaks, Welbeck Park The 'Ruysdale' Oak The 'Seven Sisters' Oak „ The 'Greendale' Oak The 'Major' Oak, Sherwood Forest The 'Centre' Oak, The 'Shambles' Oak. ,, The 'Parliament' Oak. Thobesby HorsE : — From S.E. From River From East Imp' I Cab't Size. Size. 12x8 8 x 5 Trobesby House : — 6701 6701 From N.E. 6680 „ S.W. 6684 6684 Great Hall 6702 6702 6732 Chimney Piece Thobesby Pabk : — 6693 6693 Lime Tree Avenue 6690 6690 The Bridge 6694 6694 The 'Buck' Gates 6687 6687 Perlethorpe Church 6697 6697 Approach to 'Buck' Gates 6691 In the 'BiBKLi-NDS,' Sh'wood ForeBt 6692 6695 6695 6706 6703 6703 ,, near 'Major' Oak 6707 6696 6696 A Forest Road, Sherwood Forest 6700 6700 The Arch School, . „ 6685 6685 6686 Russian Cabin ,, Clumbeb House : — 6617 6617 From East 6625 ,, Bridge 6628 6628 6641 „ S.E. 6627 6627 ',', South 6632 „ West 6542 „ Terrace, S.E. 6616 6616 The Terrace 6629 The Terrace Fountain- 6630 6630 Lincoln Ten ace 6631 6631 The Bridge 6634 6634 The Lake, from Terrace 6633 6633 ,, from Battery 6618 ,, from Pleasure Ground 6626 »> 6643 Cedar Tree in Park Roche Abbey : — 5779 5779 From the River 5778 5778 From the East 5818 5809 5809 From West 7030 From N.E. 5810 Noon in the Park 6079 On the Lake 5808 Roche Abbey -Imperials, 12 x 8 inches 2/- each. Cabinets, PRICES, UNMOUNTED: 8x5 inches, 1/- each. PANEL PICTURES— mounted on best gilt bevel-edged Mounts, 6d. each extra. All Photographs sent un-mounttd unless otherwise ordered. .BE , glggQWg & gQN , STEAM PRINTERS, Woeksop, Notts., £1,- MS> rY^ESIRE to draw the attention of those who con- gkLpi template producing Local Histories or Printed ^ ;^ Books of any kind, to the facilities they pos- sess for the execution of superior Letterpress 3 Printing. Their premises and plant are re- plete with every modern appliance, whilst their clients may rely upon the exercise of the utmost care con- cerning any work entrusted to them. Where illustrations are required, S. & S. will be glad to offer advice anent'the various new processes of engraving available for book illustration. In addi- tion to the advantages accruing therefrom, they will be pleased to offer .'(^^v suggestions of a technical character to those who seek their services. Sissons & Son will be f)leaseci to give estimates for any kind of printing, on application. EfcRY Description of ARTISTIC PRINTING KXTTTTTXT ~x nnrn rrn txjcx txxx rrmrt icHEEE Including WEDDING GMjDS, INVITATION CARDS, BALL PROGRAMMES, MENU CARDS, in THE^W^psr styles, carefully executed at fair prices. fc^er* Orders per Post receivevfrnKLittention < and carriage is defrayed. tr ^ tj ^ l w2&5 igp^