CoipghtN^ COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT ST. ANNF DE BEAl IPRR AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS Queenly Montreal, Quaint Quebec Peerless Ste, Anne de Beaupre BY ELEANOR GERTRUDE FARRELL P. J. KENEDY & SONS 44 BARCLAY STREET NEW YORK r /d 4" Copyright, 1912, By Eleanoe Gertrude Farrell. ^^ \t vX^ V ^ \ CCLA332451 TO THE Memory of Father and IMother CONTENTS. PAGE Queenly Montreal 11 Quaint Quebec v:^ 25 Peerless Ste. Anne de Beaupre 51 PREFACE. THe author has endeavored to make this little book interesting as well as didactic in its nature, and wishes to mingle the mind of the reader with that which is quaint, beautiful and picturesque in nature, to sweeten and harmonize his thoughts by bringing him in contact with a people whose delightfully quaint ways and honesty of char- acter appeal so strongly to her ; hoping to inspire and foster within him a love for nature and nature's works; to inculcate lessons of thrift and integrity and cause him to feel that "It's honest labor and steadfast thrift that alone are blessed by God." An excellent opportunity to develop the sphere of observation was given the author while on a recent visit to Lower Canada, where the moral excellence of the people and the beauties of the country prompted the writing of "Among the Blue Laurentians." E. G. F. MONTREAL MONTREAL. It was a most magnificent prospect which stretched itself before the enraptured gaze of Jacques Cartier, the discoverer of Canada, when on ascending the beautiful and majestic St. Lawrence, he beheld the Indian village, Hoche- laga, in all its primitive beauty. The well-cul- tivated ground of the Indian, with its luxuriant growth of maize rippling in the breeze, and from behind, the lovely framework of gayly tinted mountains; for it was a day in early autumn when nature is most lavish in charms of gor- geous coloring and the forests glitter with the varied tints of autumnal glory. This lovely mountain Cartier determined to climb. So im- pressed was he with the scene, he named it Mont Real (Regal Mountain), now Montreal. The beginning of the seventeenth century saw Champlain ascending this noble river for the purpose of exploration. At Hochelaga things had changed. The Indian village had dis- appeared. Not a vestige of the Indian popula- tion, which Cartier had seen seventy odd years before, remained. In 1608 Champlain founded the most quaint and curious of cities, ancient and historic Quebec, thus firmly establishing French dominion on the banks of the St. Lawrence. We cannot but admire the bravery and self- 11 AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS denial of the pioneers of New France, when we consider such men as Cartier, the discoverer of Canada; Champlain, the founder of Quebec; the noble Montcalm, the victorious Wolfe, Laval, Frontenac in his brave defiance of Phipps, the English admiral, who claimed the surrender of Quebec in 1690. They have left indelible marks upon the history of the world by their deeds of heroism and sacrifice. The expansion of the Empire of France in Canada, the heroism of her faithful sons in baffling the hostile incursion of her enemies, and lastly the memorable siege of Quebec in 1759, which resulted in the final overthrow of the French Dominion in Canada, thereby determining the destiny of Canada, are historical facts known to all lovers of history. Montreal, the "Queen of Canadian cities," is the largest and wealthiest city in the Dominion and the great commercial metrop- olis of Canada. It has an area of almost ten thousand acres and a population of five hundred thousand. The streets, which cross at right angles, have a combined length of two hundred and thirty-one miles. It lies at the base of Mount Royal, from which it derives its name. Situated on one of a group of islands at the confluence of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence rivers — a magnificent setting with its varied forms of pastoral beauty of mountain, stream and town, surmounted and garlanded by the beautiful tree-clad summit of Mount Royal — is INIontreal, the gem of the St. Lawrence. On account of its situation at the head of ocean 12 MONTREAL navigation, Montreal commands Canada com- mercially, holding the key which unfolds the treasures of this naturally fertile and so gen- erously endowed country. The exports of all the valuable resources, for which Canada is specially characterized, must pass through its port. Mount Royalis about seven hundred and fifty feet above the river or nine hundred feet above the sea. A ride over the mountain and its summit is reached; or an inchne railway, per- fectly safe, leads to the top. Since its construc- tion in 1884 more than seven million people have used this means of ascent, without an acci- dent having occurred. The ride is a delightful, winding drive around and around the mountain, through a long stretch of picturesque wood- land, with its varied beauties of foliage, ferns and flowers, with here and there frequent glimpses of tiny, silvery rivulets, trickling and tumbling in miniature cascades down the moun- tainside. Along the mountain slopes, fine palatial residences surrounded by beautiful old trees, monarchs of the forest, interspersed with quaint and charming little cottages nestling in the mountain, appear to the delighted gaze and add to the delightfully picturesque drive. Once the summit is gained, an indescribably beautiful panorama of the city and surrounding country presents itself to view. The eye, feasting upon the beauties, seems never to tire in viewing this beautiful queen city from the commanding height of Mount Royal. There at our feet, it rests peacefully almost a thousand feet below; 13 AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS with no sound of the busthng activity of the city, save the shrill whistle of the locomotive and the sounding blast of the passing steamboat on the majestic St. Lawrence. There lies commercially important and progressive Montreal, with its handsome residences, beautiful parks, hospitals and university buildings, massive civic structures and magnificent cathedrals of wondrously beau- tiful architecture. lYes, truly, a most beautiful queen with her queenly crown — Mount Royal. The St. Lawrence, adorned by the St. Helen and Nun Islands and spanned by the Victoria Bridge, flows on in its grandeur to the sea. The [Victoria Jubilee Bridge is one of the most re- markable engineering feats in the world. It was constructed by the Grand Trunk Railway and opened for traffic in 1860, by His late Majesty King Edward VII., then Prince of Wales. It is a steel structure, open girder, double track with carriage-way and foot-walk on both sides of the main trusses. The massive stone pillars of the bridge have their upper sides shaped to resemble plowshares extending out into the water. These cut the ice which comes dashing up against the bridge during the thaw in early spring; for the St. Lawrence is frozen over during the greater part of the winter. An- other bridge, the Canadian Pacific Railway, a magnificent iron structure and a great triumph of skill, crosses the river at the head of Lachine Rapids, about seven miles west of the city; a good view of which is obtained from Mount Royal. Two other iron bridges, one at Corn- 14 MONTREAL wall, the other at Valley Field, span the St. Lawrence. The Lachine Rapids were first run by the steamer "Ontario," in 1840. "Running the Rapids" is one of the most thrilling experiences. Soon after passing the Canadian Pacific Rail- way Bridge, the announcement is made, "The steamer is about to run the Rapids." The pas- sengers, curious and anxious, rush to witness the most exciting experience of navigating the most difficult and most celebrated of rapids. With bated breath they wait, but they are not long in suspense. The swift water and powerful engine soon have them over the rapids, past the narrow shelving, foam-covered rocks, and shortly the steamer is calmly passing under the gigantic Victoria Bridge, about to enter the queenly city of Montreal. The Lachine Rapids were first sighted by C artier, and he, thinking the St. Lawrence to be a strait leading to China, called the rapids Lachine ( Chinese ) . An old land- mark, the ruins of the La Salle House, once the abode of La Salle, is at Lachine. It is over two hundred and fifty years old. Near this house on the 4th of August, 1689, occurred one of the bloodiest Indian massacres in Canadian history. The Iroquois stealthily crept down the river's edge. Aided by the darkness of night, they fell upon the defenceless white people, slay- ing three hundred and fifty of their number. Some of them were tomahawked on the spot, while others were carried away captives to en- dure the horrible methods of torture which this 15 AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS cruel tribe were so capable of inflicting. A little gathering of terror-stricken colonists stood gaz- ing across the shores of Lachine, at the blazing fires which tortured their relatives and friends to death. The harbor is one of the finest in the world. Its extensive wharves are unequalled by any on the continent. The seven miles of wharfage is being improved constantly. Mil- lions of dollars have already been spent on im- provements. The granite revetment wall along the river front to prevent the inundation of the city is a magnificent piece of work. Ocean steamers carrying immense cargoes of grain to be exported to Europe are now seen at the wharves of the city. Previous to 1851 ocean steamers coming to Canada found it impossible to go beyond Quebec, owing to the waters of the St. Lawrence being too shallow to admit the pas- sage of large ships. The St. Lawrence was dredged in 1851, making a channel of twenty- seven feet in depth from the Atlantic Ocean to Montreal, which now renders it possible for the navigation of ocean steamers. Place Viger is a beautiful hotel, and like the Chateau Frontenac in Quebec-the-Quaint, is operated by the Canadian Pacific Railway and affords excellent accommodation. This exten- sive railway has its headquarters at Montreal. The Grand Trunk, which has the longest con- tinuous double-track line in the world, also has its headquarters here. Its general office build- ing is one of the best equipped and most beau- tiful in the whole Dominion. The Bank of Mon- 16 MONTREAL treal, acknowledged to be the strongest banking institution in America, has a capital of eighteen million dollars. Beautiful parks and squares, the estimated value of which is eight million dol- lars, form pretty clusters of pastoral magnifi- cence, adding a special charm to the picturesque beauty of this queenly city. The one on St. Helen Island contains one hundred and twenty- eight acres. This island was bought by Cham- plain as a dowry for his wife and was named in her honor. These parks and squares contain many handsome monuments. Principally, are The Maison Neuve, in Place d'Armes Square, erected in honor of the founder of Montreal; Nelson's Column, The MacDonald, Jacques Cartier and Queen Victoria monuments. Nu- merous churches and convents, remarkable for their architectural beauty and antiquity, testify to the religious excellence of the people. The Basilica, St. James Cathedral, has a seating capacity of four thousand five hundred. The foundation was laid in 1870. When complete, it will surpass all other church edifices in Amer- ica; as it is estimated that two million five hun- dred thousand dollars will have been expended upon its construction. The dome is an exact counterpart of St. Peter's at Rome. It is an immense structure three hundred and thirty feet in length, width two hundred and twenty feet and two hundred and fifty feet in height. The whole edifice is fashioned after Rome's famous cathedral — an exact model with the ex- ception of the roof, which had to be an inclined IT AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS one, owing to the heavy snowfalls which prevail during the Canadian winter. It has already cost one million five hundred thousand dollars. The Church of Notre Dame, erected in 1849, has a seating capacity of fifteen thousand. Its twin towers are two hundred and twenty-seven feet high. In one of the towers is the largest bell in America, ''Le Gros Bourdon'' weighing twenty-nine thousand four hundred pounds. Ten other bells are in the opposite tower. The combined strength of eighteen men is required to ring the great bell. An elevator takes visitors to the tower to get a view of the city. On enter- ing the sacred edifice, one is impressed with the sanctity of the place. The calm stillness, the solemnity and the elaborate magnificence are im- pressive and soul inspiring. The organ, said to be the finest in America, cost more than fifty thousand dollars. The architect of this magnifi- cent edifice was an Irishman, named O'Donnell. His body reposes in one of the vaults of the church. The visitor who does not see this beauti- ful church loses one of the principal attractions of Montreal. Adjoining this church is the Semi- nary of St. Sulpice, one of the oldest Roman Catholic churches in Montreal, having been founded in 1657. Among the beautiful Protes- tant churches the grandest and most imposing is St. James' Methodist church. The edifice and ground cost five hundred thousand dollars. The interior is extremely beautiful and has a seating capacity of three thousand. Christ's Church, the English Cathedral of Montreal, is another hand- 18 SACRED HEART CHAPEL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME MONTREAi: some church of which the Protestant population may well feel proud. It is surmounted by a fine tower two hundred and twenty-f our feet high and presents a most beautiful appearance. The Mc- Gill University, a famous Protestant college, with its well-kept and extensive grounds, is a handsome adornment in its architectural beauty. On a broad area of elevated ground stands the main college building at the head of the avenue. Beautiful trees and avenues bordered with bright-hued flowers intensify its beauty, making it unusually attractive. Behind rises glorious and beautiful Mount Royal, a most appropriate background for this magnificent university. Amusements vary somewhat according to the country and the character of its people. So in Montreal, pastimes peculiar to Canada are en- ijoyed. Lacrosse, a game of Indian origin and resembling football, though played with a netted bat, is the national game of Canada from May to October. It is played with exceptional skill in Montreal. Then follow hockey, the national winter game, ice racing, tobogganing and skat- ing. No other city excels Montreal in oppor- tunities for these favorite pastimes. Winter is certainly a jolly time with its varied and peculiar forms of amusements. A snowshoe club is an organization peculiar to Canada. The uniform consists of a bright blanket coat, with a cap fit- ting tightly over the head and fastened to the neck. In this odd dress, the whole party wear- ing snowshoes, glide over the snow, playing games in the moonlight and singing as they go, 19 AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS mmKKKaammmimmii^mimmmmmnmmmma ^ i mmnmimmt iM ui i iimwmiit .iim aB^Bmmmmmmimmm thoroughly enjoying themselves. In toboggan- ing, a thin piece of board from four to eight feet long and usually about eighteen inches wide and curved up at the front end, is the toboggan. The bottom of the board is very smooth and when started down the hill it goes bounding over the smooth snow with the speed of an auto- mobile. The one who steers the toboggan is seated in the rear and directs its course with his hands and feet. If he blunders, which sometimes does happen, over he goes with the others of the party, upside down in the snow. "The spill" from the toboggan adds much to the merriment. A pretty custom is the annual winter carnival. An "Ice Palace" is built of blocks of ice. The whole palace is illuminated with hundreds of electric lights. The different snowshoe clubs of Montreal, as well as the militia, "storm the Palace," which consists of a march to the Palace, where a most brilliant pyro- technical display takes place. This magnificent spectacle is witnessed by thousands of people. The Palace of 1909-10, which was erected on Mount Royal, was enjoyed by one hundred thousand people, it is estimated, many of whom came hundreds of miles to witness the charming scene. Aside from these strictly Canadian sports, football, golf, cricket, polo, yachting and canoe- ing are all thoroughly enjoyed by the lover of outdoor sports. Unusual attractions are also offered the angler-sportsman. Here he will find unlimited possibilities for the rod and line 20 MONTREAL in both lake and river. Here there is no neces- sity for the funny, finny fib, for certain is he to capture some of the fish contingent; for here is a boundless supply of the finny tribe from the tiny brook trout to the great salmon which sometimes weighs as much as forty pounds. The mountain rivers, inland seas, lakes and streams teem with fish; and the knight of the rod and line, testing his skill, finds delight in capturing the wealth of the waters. Here, too, the hunts- man may gladden his heart with the game of mountain and forest. In the vast wilderness, primeval and beautiful — ever the haunt of the hunter — reigns he supremely; for here in the fastnesses of the mountain the rifle strikes low some untamed beasts, a caribou or a moose, per- haps, at the feet of the now happy huntsman. We must ever appreciate and admire the varied beauties of the boundless forest, with its undulating hills, green in summer, gorgeous in autumn and snowclad in winter; the wooded islands, inland seas, wildly fascinating rapid streams, the lonely, peaceful lake, ever beautiful in its placid loveliness. The historical associa- tion of Lower Canada and its ancient character shall ever continue to captivate the student and the antiquarian and its natural beauties shall ever remain an inspiration and an attraction to him who admires nature and nature's works. 21 AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS Among other places of interest in Montreal are: The Art Gallery, Bonsecours Market. Chateau de Ramezay. New Windsor Hotel. Royal Victoria Hospital. The Old Windmill. Victoria Square. Dominion Square. Montreal Hunt Club. Montreal College. Presbyterian College. The Old Towers. Sherbrook Street. The Colonial House. The Park Drive. 22 QUEBEC QUEBEC. Overlooking the noble and beautiful St. Law- rence, the quaint and charming city of Quebec stands. A large army of tourists annually in- vade her dominion, and ever willing is she to welcome this friendly invasion and proud she is to surrender without reservation to the ad- vancing line, whose embassy is ever of peace. The sole object of this encroachment is to view the ancient capital with its famous citadel, ruins of her feudalism, and the infinite variety of her charms. We, who view this fascinating city, feel the charm of its picturesque environments. We never quite forget Quebec; for fancy loves to linger on the quaint and beautiful afforded by this curious and historic city. The famous citadel, the battlefield and its monuments to the brave soldiers who fell, vividly remind us of the memorable siege of Quebec and fancy pic- tures for us the fortified city with ramparts and battlements and frowning cannon. We see the questioning sentry, note his vigilant eye, hear the command to the advancing line, "Halt! and give the countersign!" Again, we see the brave Wolfe anchor his fleet in the harbor, cannonad- ing the city for months; see him take his army a few miles up the St. Lawrence river, to feign the abandoning of the struggle; then, in the 25 AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS silence of night quietly come down the river, clamber up the winding, precipitous cliff, dis- closed to his eagle eye in his careful reconnais- sance of the citadel. This circuitous route is a path to victory. It leads to the fortified city of Quebec, now secure to the French through the vigilance of the gallant Montcalm. Wolfe's wonderful tactics have served him well; for lol at dawn he stands in battle array on the Plains of Abraham. He has surprised Montcalm. Then begins that far-famed and bloody conflict. Wolfe storms the citadel. Montcalm and his French army bravely defend it. The persistent Wolfe is unyielding. Alas, for Montcalm! Alas! for Wolfe! Both see they have met in mortal combat. Wolfe, twice wounded, presses on, still leading the charge. A third ball strikes him, and Wolfe, the victor, dies at the moment of victory. At the same time mortally wounded, Montcalm is borne to the rear. All this, fancy vividly portrays, and down the long century and more of years the dying words of Wolfe and Montcalm are wafted to the ear as we, wrapt in thought, are overpowered with admiration for the conquered and the conqueror. The pictured battle is over. Quebec surrenders. The present claims us from the past and we move on to view the Wolfe and Montcalm monument, a magnifi- cent granite shaft erected to the memory of these brave generals. It is sixty-five feet in height and stands in Governor's Garden, having been erected in 1828. A suitable inscription is in- scribed thereon. The name "Wolfe" is carved 26 QUEBEC on one side. On the reverse side is inscribed "Montcalm/' The noble generosity of these people is here shown by this magnanimous, un- selfish act, honoring alike the victorious Wolfe and the vanquished Montcalm. DufFerin Terrace, the grand and world-re- nowned promenade, runs along the brow of the steep cliff upon which the ancient walled city of Quebec stands overlooking Lower Town. It is always the great centre of attraction in the evening for the immense throng of people who annually visit this quaint old city. A spirit of excitement pervades the air. This noisy activity is but the jolly jostle of the crowd; for every one is enthusiastic with the wonders of glorious Quebec. At night the lofty terrace presents a beautiful appearance and is admired with un- limited admiration. It is simply wonderful, this magnificent panorama. The city — Upper Town and Lower Town — and Levis, over the way, illu- mined by myriad electric lights and the moon casting its reflection on the restless, rolling river, make the silvery St. Lawrence sparkle with daz- zling brightness. All this combined with the inspiring music of the band from the Citadel, the joyous bustle and social merriment which seem to prevail, make this scene of gayety a matchless one. At the entrance to the Terrace, the statue of Champlain, the founder of Quebec, with hat in hand, welcomes the visitor. Not far from this memorial monument, on the hillside near the Post Office lies buried the illustrious founder of Quebec and discoverer of the beau- 27 AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS tiful Lake Champlain. On September 19, 1889, occurred the great landslide. A huge rock mass which became detached from the steep walls of Dufferin Terrace, came thundering down amid clouds of dust and a deafening roar, burying beneath thousands of tons of rock, many houses and their occupants. Sixty-six lives were lost. Much of the debris still remains, and looking up the terrace you can plainly see where the great slice of rock was detached. An elevator at one end of the terrace leads to Lower Town landing the visitor in Little Champlain Street — a very narrow street. Old houses with high roofs are on either side. Little Sous-le- Cap, still more quaint, is reached through Sault- au-Matelot Street from Mountain Hill. The same high French roofed houses with peaked windows, which characterized Little Champlain, are here, too. Sous-le-Cap, about ten or twelve feet in width, is the narrowest thoroughfare in America, and one of the oldest in Lower Town. So narrow is it that in some places the wheels of the passing vehicle come in contact with the doorsteps of the houses. It is simply impossible for two carriages to pass at any point along the street. The houses on the cliff side connect with those on the opposite by foot-bridges at each story. On these bridges the family wash is hung. The whole experience is like passing through a tunnel except for the evidence of life presented. Here and there a prop reaching across the way serves seemingly to support the houses. The threatening, rugged cliff projecting itself at in- 2S QUEBEC tervals, almost bars the way and makes the timid anxious to emerge from these unusual surround- ings into the daylight. Champlain Market in Lower Town gives the tourist an exceptional opportunity to see market- ing a la Franfaise, The ensemble of the scene is strictly French. The native simplicity, quaint customs and manners of the people are distinctly those of French Canada. All manner of con- veyance is here; from the jaunty caleche, sl two- wheeled vehicle peculiar to Quebec, down to the primitive ox-cart. This original mode of con- veyance is still employed by some of the habi- tants^ as the French-Canadian farmers are called. Most of the produce, however, is con- veyed from the neighboring districts up or down the St. Lawrence, by the market steamers. The market building is of stone and the open space outside is plank covered. The grotesque ap- pearance of the habitants, sitting about on this planked space with their green commodities spread out around them is picturesquely odd and amusing. Here is ample scope for the linguist to study the pleasing patois of the natives in the vehement clamorings and gesticulations of the habitants in their anxiety to dispose of their goods. The caleche, an airy thing with a folded cover, reminds one of a carriage on stilts. It is rather a hard vehicle to mount and equally as difficult from which to descend. Yet a ride in one of these peculiar carriages is much sought by the visitor on account of its novelty. Quebec was originally a walled city, and en- 29 AMONG THE BLUE L AUREyTIANS trance to it was effected through one of six gates — The Kent, St. Louis, Hope, Prescott, Palace and St. John leading into it. None of the original gates remain to-day. Those on Palace Hill, Hope and JNIountain Hills have been remodeled. St. Louis and Kent gates have been made very picturesque and attractive. A labyrinthine road leads to the Citadel, which is always one of the first and important objects of interest. It has an area of forty acres. The plan of the Citadel is one approved by the Duke of Wellington. It is three hundred and sixty- five feet above the river and the cost of its con- struction was twenty-five million dollars. H may be entered through St. Louis gate ann :on- tinuing up a hill, passing various plac ^ of in- terest and beauty, the massive Chain Gate is reached. An inner gate, closely guarded by a sentinel, is next reached, where all visitors are halted and placed in charge of a grey-uniformed guide, who leads the way, calling attention to the many historical points of interest. He tells the weight of the different guns, the nature of the different buildings — the Governor General's quarters, the officers' quarters, soldiers' quarters, storehouses and Drill Hall. Finally he leads the way to the King's Bastion, the highest part of the Citadel, where two salutes, one at noon and the other at half -past nine o'clock at night, are given daily. He points with pride to a gun which is claimed to have been captured from the Americans at Bunker Hill. The outlook from the Citadel is exceptionally beautiful, rivaling 30 QUEBEC the view obtained from the Kent House, Mont- morency. Here we see the valley of the St. Charles River stretching far and wide, the blue, round-topped mountains looking down with a smile upon the charm and grandeur of the beau- tiful St. Lawrence and the magnificent harbor of Quebec and Point Levis, and nearer still, the tightly packed houses of the town itself; a distant view of the village of Beauport leading to Montmorency Falls. The spires of the world- renowned church of Ste. Anne de Beaupre, twenty-one miles distant, are plainly discerned by means of a field glass. A walk along the ramparts will extend this magnificent view far away to the Maine boundary, and will also al- low one to observe how close upon the street are all the houses built, their double doors for protection, and how the east side of the houses are clapboarded for double protection during the severely cold winters for which Canada is noted. It is a fatiguing journey, this ramble up and down hill. Sometimes a clamber over cannon, ditches and walls, where the formidable guns of long ago are now sleeping peacefully after the din of battle. Among the finest and important buildings in Canada may be reckoned the Par- liament Buildings in Quebec, which were com- pleted in 1887. The main building is a perfect square of three hundred feet. The interior is fine and elaborate. Quebec citizens point with a pardonable pride to their City Hall, a mas- sive collection of buildings, modern in structure and erected upon the site of the old Jesuit Col- 31 AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS lege. They proudly boast of having within their province the only civic structure in America, in which there was no "boodling" with the contract price. On the Plains of Abraham is erected a monument with the inscription — Here Died Wolfe Victorious Sept. 13th, 1759. Looking over the edge of the cliff can be seen the ravine up which Wolfe and his men clam- bered to capture Quebec. One of the interest- ing places which the visitor must not fail to view is the large fur store of Holt, Renfrew & Co., Ltd. Many quaint stories of the customs of the Indian are told by the employes, for they deal directly with the primitive people in purchasing their goods. The magnificent display of the beautiful creations in fur is greatly admired; and in magnificence and variety can scarcely be surpassed by famous Paris. The capital of this wonderful firm is one million dollars. Canada may feel reasonably proud of this enterprising company. Queen Victoria was pleased to pur- chase her furs here. The sleigh robes presented by the ladies of Canada to the Duchess of York as a wedding gift, were purchased from this firm. A framed document in their possession testifies that "Holt, Renfrew & Co., Ltd., are 'bona fide' furriers to the Queen." Upon Duf- ferin Terrace, just below the Citadel, is located Chateau Frontenac, the grandest hotel in all Canada, and one of the largest and finest in the 32 QUEBEC continent of America. It is operated by the Canadian Pacific Railroad, having been built by this company at a cost of more than one mil- lion dollars. It is a grand site for a hotel and commands a fine view up and down the river and across the river to Levis. It is of historic in- terest, as it has been the residence of several of the governors of Canada. In the eastern wall of the post-office is inserted a has relief repre- senting a dog gnawing a bone. The significance of this, as well as the tragedy which occurred at "The Chateau Bigot," now a picturesque and romantic ruin, and which resulted in the death of the unfortunate Algonquin maid Caroline, is vividly described in Kirby's famous historical romance — "The Golden Dog" (Le Chien D'or), The Lorette Falls in the pretty little Indian village of Jeune Lorette are worthy of note. They are a miniature counterpart of Victoria Falls of the Zambesi. The entire amount of water of the river St. Charles after reaching the bottom of the Falls turns off, almost at a right angle, through an extremely narrow cleft in the rock, so narrow it could almost be stepped across. In this village dwells the last remnant of the Hurons, who took refuge from the relent- less Iroquois. George III. presented them with a small cannon, of which they feel very proud. They have intermarried with their French neigh- bors. However, the Indian features, high cheek- bones, swarthy look and habits still predom- inate. Famous churches and convents, too, adorn the town, reminding us forcibly of the 33 AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS pioneer missionaries, suffering and sacrificing so much for the propagation of rehgion and civili- zation. The Basilica, or French Cathedral, is the oldest church in Canada. Its construction was begun in 1647. First Mass was celebrated in 1665 and the church dedicated in 1666 by Monseigneur Laval, first Bishop of Quebec. It has a seating capacity of four thousand. This historic and beautiful edifice is fashioned after some of the temples of France and Spain. Its chancel is a reproduction of St. Peter's of Rome. Its white and gold brocade decorations give it a cheerful and wondrously beautiful appearance. During the British bombardment in 1759 it was destroyed, but was afterwards rebuilt on the same walls. It was raised to the rank of Basilica in 1874 by His Holiness Pope Pius the Ninth. It has a wealth of magnificent paintings deco- rating the walls. Many of them are by the world's great masters. The following is the list of paintings and other interesting and valuable information as obtained from the church author- ities at this renowned church, as well as at the old monastery. LIST OF PAINTINGS IN THE FRENCH CATHEDRAL OF QUEBEC. This church is the oldest in Canada (A. D. 1647). Destroyed by fire during the siege of Quebec (A. D., 1759), it was rebuilt on the 34 QUEBEC same walls. Later (on the 28th of August, 1874) His Holiness the Pope Pius the Ninth raised it to the eminent dignity of Minor Basilica. I. On the right hand, first pillar, The Holy Family, by Blanchard. II. Our Saviour Insulted hy the Soldiers, by Huret. III. Birth of Christ, a copy of the same painting executed by Annibal Carrache. IV. In the lateral chapel, on the right, above the altar, The Flight of Josejjh Into Egypt, by Theophile Hamel; the original by Vanloo. V. In the choir on the right — Communion of St, Jerome, after Le Dominiquin. VI. Our Saviour Attended to by Angels Af- ter the Temptation in the Desert, by Restout. VII. Above the chief altar. The Inunaculate Conception — Lebrun's style. VIII. The left hand, St. Paid's Ecstasy, by Carlo Mara. IX. Virgin of Rosary, by Sassoferrato. X. In St. Anne's chapel, Miracles of Ste, uinne, by A. Plamondon. XI. Coming back to the interior, first pillar. Our Saviour on the Cross, by Van Dick. XII. The Pentecost, by Vignon. XIII. Annunciation, by Restout. XIV. In Sacred Heart's Chapel, to the right hand. The Agony in the Garden of Olives, by Huot. KV, To the left hand, The Apparition of 85 AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS the Sacred Heart to Blessed Margaret Mary, by the same. XVI. In the chapel near the entrance, The Saviour's Sepulchre and Interment, copied by A. Plamondon, from the original by Hutin. XVII. The Baptism of Christ, Claude Guy Halle. In the chapel, above the altar, stands the statue of Our Lady of Pity. XVIII. In the opposite chapel — the right — St, Joseph's Death — copied by the Rev. Sisters of Good Shepherd, from the original by Pas- qualoni. XIX. The left — Vision of the St. Anthony of Padua — by the Rev. Sistel-s of Good Shep- herd, original by Murillo. The group in this chapel represents St. Joseph's Death. The two reliquaries which are attached to the walls in the sanctuary enclose the relics of forty martyrs in Japan; each contains twenty relics of each martyr. N. B. — The other small paintings around the chapels are the Fourteen Stations of Our Saviour's Passion. M QUEBEC LIST OF THE STAINED GLASS WIN- DOWS IN THE LATERAL CHAP- ELS OF THE BASILICA. I. The Birth of the Blessed Virgin. II. The Presentation of the Blessed Virgin. III. The Annunciation. IV. The Visitation. V. The Presentation of Jesus at the Temple. VI. The Finding of Our Lord amongst the Doctors. VII. Mary at the Foot of the Cross. VI II. Descending of the Holy Ghost upon the Blessed Virgin and the Apostles. IX. The Coronation of Mary in Heaven. Visitors are shown the church ornaments in gold brocade, etc., etc. The silver and gold set is composed of twenty- nine different pieces. It was bought in 1850 at Lyons in France. The complete purple set is of twenty-six different pieces. It was also pur- chased at Lyons in 1850. The black set is com- posed of twenty different pieces, bought at Lyons in 1869. The old set, bearing the shield of Louis XIV., is a gift of that king. It is more than two hundred years old, and consists of twenty-two different pieces. 37 AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS A SOUVENIR OF THE OLD MONASTERY. Inscription: Me Donavit Ludovicus Deci- Mus Tertius. Seal of the Company of New France, other- wise called of "The Hundred Associates," founded by Cardinal Richelieu in 1627. The ground occupied by this Monastery and its de- pendencies was donated by that company in 1639. The only impression known of the seal of which the above is a fac-simile is attached to a deed in the archives of the Monastery. The reproduction of both sides of this double seal 38 QUEBEC may be seen outside the chapel, together with the escutcheons of Mary of the Incarnation, the Foundress, and of Madame de la Peltrie, bene- factress of the institution. The Chapel. The present chapel, built in 1901, is of the same dimensions and occupies the same site as that completed in 1723, which it has replaced. The preservation of all the ornamentation of the former chapel, executed in the style of the period (Louis XIV), with its original antique gilding, recalls to mind the splendor of the old regime. The beautifully decorated colonnade, the elaborately carved pulpit, and the bas-reliefs of the panels on the sanctuary doors and on the bases of the columns are due to the chisel of a native artist, Noel Levasseur. The Paintings/ (Over the altar) I. The Adoration of the Infant Jesus by Shepherds. Artist unknown. II. Our Lord Revealing His Heart to the Blessed Margaret Mary, by Lebrun. At this same altar, on June 18, 1700, was cel- ^ These original paintings^ which escaped the vandal- ism of the French Revolution, were purchased in 1822 for the Ursulines by the Abbe Philippe Desjardins, their former chaplain, who had then been appointed Vicar Gen- eral of Paris. S9 AMONG THE BLUE LAURENTIANS ebrated, for the first time in the New World, the feast of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. The words : Demande-moi par la Cceur de mon Fits, in- scribed in the circular window above the altar, and in the marble medallion outside the chapel, is the invitation of the Almighty Father to the Venerable Foundress of this Monastery, Marie Guyart del Incarnation, to appeal to Him through the Heart of His Son. (In the nave: Gospel-side.) III. St. Nonnus, a Bishop, Admitting to a Life of Penance the Converted Actress, Pelagia, by Prud'hon. IV. Thais the Penitent Pleading for Admis- sion into a Monastery^, by Prud'hon. (Above the main entrance.) V. Jesus at the Supper Table of Simon the Pharisee, by Philippe de Champaigne. (In the nave; Epistle-side.) VI. The Wise Virgins, by Pietro da Cortona. VII. Miraculous Draught of Fishes, by An- thony Dieu (?). VIII. Visitation of the Blessed Virgin, by Colin de Vermont. ^ This painting, in which the artist has represented Saint Thais under the features of the famous Duchess de la Valliere, could not have found a more appropriate place than the chapel of the Old Monastery. During twelve years, the Ursulines of Quebec prayed and did pen- ance for the conversion of that Magdalen, who expijated her sinful life at court by seventeen long years of penance under the austere rule of the Carmelite Order. 40 QUEBEC IX. Christian Captives at Algiers Ransomed by the Trinitarian Fathers^ by Claude-Gui Halle. HISTORICAL MONUMENTS. I. Erected by the Provincial Government to the memory of the Jesuit Fathers Duperron, a missionary among the Hurons, and DeQuen, who discovered Lake St. John, and of the lay- brother Liegeois, whose head was cut off by the Iroquois, at Sillery, near Quebec. Inscription by the famous Latin scholar, Father Angelini, S. J. II. To the memory of General Montcalm, erected in 1859, on the 100th anniversary of his death. Inscription by the French Academy in 1763. The marble slab beneath was placed by Lord Aylmer, Governor of Canada, in 1833. 4.1 Cuirass worn by Montcalm at the battle of the Plains of Abraham. Mark of the bullet wound on the left. Preserved by his family. 4S Oji. ^^muio ^^f&^^M:L>'^'^i^M^^^ /^^a/^ ^L ^^lSU