LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 0001^335215 v sO U^ <* o > \ v ^ r K 'p & / SOLDIERING — IN — NORTH CAROLINA; — BEING — THE EXPERIENCES OP A 'TYPO* IN THE PINES, SWAMPS, FIELDS, SANDY ROADS, TOWNS, CITIES, AND AMONG THE FLEAS, WOOD-TICKS, 'GRAY-BACKS,' MOSQUITOES, BLUE-TAIL FLIES, MOCCASIN SNAKES, LIZARDS, SCORPIONS, REBELS, AND OTHER REPTILES, PESTS AND VERMIN OF THE 'OLD NORTH STATE.' EMBRACING AN ACCOUNT OF THE THREE- YEARS AND NINE- MONTHS MASSACHUSETTS REGIMENTS IN THE DEPARTMENT, THE FREEDMEN ETC., ETC., ETC. BY "ONE OF THE SEVENTEENTH." IIjIiUSTRATBD. BOSTON : PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY THOMAS KIRWAN. 1864. C2U X Entered According to Act of Congress, in the tear 1864, by THOMAS KIRWAN, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massachusetts. PREFACES. The contents of the following pages are presented to the public as matters of fact. They embody some of the writer's experiences while serving his country in the " land of cotton." It is true his experiences ate tame and unromantic when com- pared with those of some of the men of the Potomac or the Cumberland ; but they are the best he can offer, and need no apology, as the style does, which is rough and unpolished. Besides giving an account of the 17th Mass. Reg't, and its participation in the engagements at Kinston, Whitehall, and Goldsboro, something is said of the other old regiments in the department, and the nine months' men, — also, an account of the contrabands, their habits and disposition — anecdotes, &c. X>J3X>XO.A. , X , IC> wr . To the officers and men of the Seventeenth Massachusetts Regiment, who, through no fault ot their's, have only- lacked the opportunities to render their organiza- tion as famous as that of any regiment from the old Bay State : whose services have been mostly of that passive character — upon the outpost picket, and performing arduous duty in the midst of a malarial country — that suffers and endures much •without exciting comment or adding to the laurels, of which every true soldier is so proud : THIS HUMBLE WORK IS DEDICATED, By one who, with them, has braved the " pestilence that walk- eth abroad at noonday," the fatigues of the march, and the dangers of the battle. PAKT 1. ENLISTMENT DEPARTURE THE VOYAGE HATTERAS UP THE NEUSE NEWBERN AN ACCOUNT OF THE 17TH ON PICKET DOING PROVOST DUTY IN NEWBERN, ETC. It has been said that man is essentially a "fighting animal," — that in this " world's broad field of battle " his life, from the cradle to the grave, is one continued struggle against want and its attendant circumstances, — and that he is the greatest who, be his position what it may, acts well his part. If this be true — and I think it is — then the man who goes to the war only exchanges one mode of strife for another — " the whips and scorns of time," for interminable drilling, " hard tack and salt horse,"— "the oppressor's wrong," for the hardships of the march and the dangers of the battle, — " the proud man's con- tumely," for the murmurings at home that he does not " clean out " the rebels in a week or two, — "the law's delay," for the tedium of garrison and camp life, — " the insolence of office/' for the rule (not always gentle or humane) of men placed over him, — and the " bare bodkin," for the sword and the bayonet. And yet — and yet — " Ah me ! what perils do environ The man that meddles with cold iron ! What plaguy mischiefs and mishaps Do dog him still with after claps ! " The severe checks and disasters experienced by the Union arms in the Spring camaign of 1 862, culminating in the "seven days' fight " before Richmond, and the retreat of McClellan's noble but suffering and crippled army to James river, while it spread sorrow and mourning throughout the land, had the effect of awakening those in power to a full sense of the nation's peril. 6 GOING. When the President called for more men, thereby giving effect to the wishes of the loyal people, I was one of those who helped to swell the volume of that mighty response which echoed back from the hills and prairies, cities and villages, towns and hamlets : "We are coming, father Abraham, three hundred thousand more !" Like others, I had to mourn the loss of a friend, — a brave young fellow, who was killed in the second of the " seven days' fight," and determined to fill his place, if I could. On the 4th of August, 1862, 1 entered my name as a " raw recruit " for Co. F, 19 th Mass. Reg't, as one of the quota of the town of Maiden. A friend, struck by my example, or, perhaps, being in that state of mind which needs but little to turn one way or the other, joined with me ; but upon going to the office in Boston where enlistments for the 19th were "done up," we were told recruiting for it was stopped. How times have altered since then, — now, I believe, it would take a battalion to fill it. We were in a fix (at least I was, who wished to go in the 19th), but there was a remedy at hand. A recruiting officer for the 17th, who had an office in Union street, received us willingly, and after being examined and sworn in, we were packed off, with some twenty other recruits, to Camp Cameron in North Cambridge. It was late in the evening when we arrived there, and no preparation being made for us— owing, I suppose, to the constant and rapid influx of recruits, which taxed to their utmost the various departments to fit out and provide for, — we had to turn in, supperless, to a bunk of downy boards, with no covering but our thin citizens' summer clothes. I thought it was a very uncomfortable resting place at the time, but it was nothing to what I have since known in the way of sleeping accommodation. The next morning I had leisure to look around me and take a survey of the mass of human nature that there commingled for the first time. And truly it was a heterogeneous compound of GOING. 7 representatives of nearly every race of people in Europe, and plentifully sprinkled among them was the leaven of the whole — smart, shrewd, intelligent, quick-eyed and quick-witted Ameri- cans. And such a confusing babble as prevailed I never heard before. Wrangling and swearing, drinking and eating, talking and laughing, — all combined to give me no very agreeable fore- taste of what I had to expect in my new vocation. I noticed others, new, like myself, to such scenes, who seemed mentally dumfounded, or unconsciously comparing the quiet routine of the life they led at home to the new one they had assumed, and, no doubt, to the great advantage of the former and dislike for the latter. But happily for us all, being the creatures of cir- cumstances, the pliability of our natures leads us to be quickly reconciled to our lot, whatever it may be. The change of life from a citizen to that of a soldier is so radical that few like it at first; but by degrees it becomes endurable, and finally, often, desirable. The recent re-enlistments prove this. There were several "characters" among the recruits in camp, to whom, if I could, I would devote a few pages, as well as to management of the camp and the method of dovetailing a little innocent private business into that of the public, as practiced by some of the little-great men in authority there ; but as paper costs 22 cents per pound, I am warned that I must leave out here and condense there, which is not so pleasant after all. Men were arriving every day in squads of from twenty to fifty, and leaving at intervals in detachments of from 100 to 500, to be distributed among their respective regiments at the seat of war. At length our turn came. It was on a Friday. — Now, Friday, though generally considered by superstitious persons an unlucky day, has often proved a lucky one for me. I was born on Friday ; was married on Friday ; and now I started to go to the war on Friday. I shouldn't wonder if on some Friday in the future I would die — and that will be another great event in 8 GONE. my life. Well, we started on a Friday afternoon, and taking the cars at the Old Colony depot in Boston and the boat at Fall River, found ourselves next morning in the city of New York. We were quartered in barracks on White street, furnished with filthy beds, miserable "grub," and allowed free range of the city. A lieutenant (from Haverhill, I believe) had charge of our squad, which numbered about a hundred, and some of his en- thusiastic admirers in the crowd presented him with a sword. There was, of course, a presentation speech, enthusiastic, pathetic, patriotic and warlike, and a response suitable aud sentimental. It made a good impression on me at the time; but then I had yet to learn the difference between what an Indian would call "talk fight" and "fightem." On the following Monday afternoon, with all "traps" snugly bestowed and knapsacks strapped on, we were drawn up in front of the barracks, when the lieutenant stepped out in front and proposed three cheers for the barrack-master, which were given ; but I did not join in, even in dumb show, having too much consientiousness to outrage the finer feelings of my stomach by cheering for an individual who had cheated and abused it. We then took up our line ot march for the transport, and went along almost unnoticed save by a few patriotic individuals who bade us a fervent God-speed and wished that good-fortune might attend us wherever we went ; but the great mass seemed hard- ened to the sight of their fellow men going away from amongst them to explore unknown fields of danger, and to purchase with their life's blood a continuance and perpetuity of that nationality which has made the United States of America the first among nations. As these thoughts entered my mind, they suggested the picture of the hundreds of thousands of devoted men who passed through this great city, with all their hardest and most bitter experiences— hardships and dangers, sickness and death —before them, many, very many of them to return again no APPLES. 9 more ; and I began to realize that, though still in a land of peace and plenty, a few days would bring me out upon far different scenes and into circumstances that would require a bold heart to meet as they ought to be met. Luckily for us all, the future cannot be penetrated, or we should be mourning calamities before they befall us ; dreading dangers before they threaten, and finally become unmanned at the awful prospect impending over our future. Still there is in the expectancy of danger something that is fascinating, and something, too, that even while we dread we seek ; and this feeling, the result of a strange curiosity, enlivened by hope aud the love of excitement, is what often keeps up the spirit of the soldier and urges him on, even when worn out with fatigue aud well-nigh exhausted, to renewed energy and more determined acts of bravery. The transport we embarked upon was a dilapidated steamer called the "Haze" (who that ever took passage in her to or from Dixie can forget the old tub ?), a miserably appointed vessel, whose officers and crew seemed better fitted for the peniten- tiary than for the station they held. It was in this vessel that I first learnt some of the hardships and inconveniences of a soldier's life. Just before the hawser was cast off, an Irish apple-woman came on board, her basket well laden with fruit, and said — "Come, me poor boys ; it's not many of these ye'll get in the place ye're goin' to — so help yerselves ! 'Tis all I have to give ye, except me blessin' — and may God bless ye all, and bring ye safe back agin to the f rinds ye have at home !" She then proceeded to distribute the apples (and fine ones they were) to the boys, many of whom, thinking more of the apples than the blessing, rushed eagerly in saying, "bully for you, old lady !" nearly overturning her in their desire to possess as much of the fruit as possible. As for me, I was content to let them have the fruit — the blessing and good wished of the warm-hearted old woman was all-sufficient for my desires. She 10 IN A HAZE. stepped ashore, and as she disappeared in the crowd on the pier, I heard one of the lucky ones, who was luxuriating in the fruits of his scramble, remark to another lucky one, — " D d good apples ! — that's a bully old woman, — how did you like her malediction ?" "Big thing," was the response. The hawser was finally cast off, and, backing slowly out of the dock, the steamer was soon under full headway down the bay. What my emotions were as I gazed (perhaps) for the last time upon the surrounding scenes, I will not tire the reader by giving expression to, — doubtless they resembled in a manner those of thousands of others who had gone the same road before me. My comrades, however, as a general thing, were merry, and talked of the promised land (Dixie) in a tone that showed how high their hopes ran ; but presently, as we passed Sandy Hook, and the regular and continuous swell of the ocean set in, many who were before lively as kittens became tame and wretched-looking enough. It was dark before we passed the Highlands, and, though we could not see the Jersey shore we heard of it from the breakers, here and there catching glimpses of lights which told us that even among its barren sands many had found homes. But let Jersey pass, and Delaware, and Virginia's eastern shore — " away, away down South in Dixie " we go. But how few, comparatively, of our detachment were now so eager, after encountering one enemy, to meet another? And yet, I verily believe, many of these poor fellows would prefer at that time to run their chances in battle (if only on the land) than be tossed about at the mercy of the waves and so thoroughly sea-sick. As for me, whose somewhat eventful life had often before sent me "down to the sea in ships," I had no feelings of nausea, and consequently enjoyed the surroundings, the fresh, bracing sea air seeming to instil new vigor into my frame, which twenty years of toil in a printing office (with short intermissions) had tended to impair. Thus situated I could AT SEA. ; 11 look about me, and I observed some who were formerly the jolliest of our baud now the saddest and most forlorn. One in particular (a fine young fellow, whom we dubbed "the colonel") who had been the life of our party, now, pale and sad, with not a word to say, lay doubled up inside the coils of a hawser, as forlorn as the Wandering Jew (by Eugene Sue). It was no more, with him, "Away daown Saouth in a few days — hooray !' We passed the Chesapeake, (Fortress Monroe,) Cape Henry and the dismal coast beyond, and on the third evening neared land to the north of Cape Hatteras. — But such land ! A long, low bar of sand, stretching away as far as the eye could reach, relieved at intervals by huge hummocks covered with a stunted growth of trees, whose ragged and forlorn limbs and inclined position made them appear as if a fierce hurricane all the while tore through their branches, threatening to uproot and cast them away forever. "There," said 1 to the 'colonel,' who had come upon deck when he heard we were near Hatteras, and stood beside me grasping the rail, — "There is Dixie, my jolly 'colonel.' We have come 'away daown Saouth in a few days,' haven't we ; and how do you like the lay of the land ? What— can't you even say 'hooray ?' " But only a faint smile was the answer. Shortly after dark we descried Hatteras light, which we neared about ten o'clock; but the captain would not venture in, and so we had to lay "off and on" till daylight, which was no pleasant job, for "the wind rose and the rain fell," and gave those who selected the deck for their sleeping place (myself among the number), with the assistance of an occasional dash of salt water, a pretty thorough soaking. As soon as it was clear day our craft headed for the "swash," the wind blowing a small gale, the rain coming in squalls as if some fretful genius presided over this unhappy coast, and the waves running in shore like race- horses, spreading their foam in a thin gray mist over the narrow line of sand, which seemed endeavoring almost in vain to keep 12 HATTERAS. its back above the water. To our right, and north of the inlet, were the forts taken by Gen. Butler in his first Coast Expedition. Only one of these, Fort Hatteras, is now used. The other has either sunk into the sand or been almost wholly destroyed by the action of the waves. Fort Hatteras is an earthwork, but so admirably situated as to prove an almost impassible barrier to anything but ironclads. Beyond and around the fort on the land or sand side, were a few buildings used for quarters for the garrison and for ordnance stores. Anchored in the Sound, near by, were supply ships, transports, and old hulks; while here and there rows of disconsolate timbers, lifting their dripping heads above the tide, told the fate of many a noble ship of the glorious Expedition of Gen. Burnside. We "hove to" after entering the Sound to deliver the mails for the Fort; and the change from the violent rolling, tossing and pitching was such as to inspire even my old triend the 'colonel' with something of the spirit he was wont to display ere old Neptune changed his tune. After taking a look at the Fort and its surroundings, I turned my eyes to the opposite shore of the inlet, when lo, there stretched out in an almost straight line from the point into the Sound a troop or flock of — what ? That was the puzzle to my mind. Were they huge gulls or windbags, cormorants or cranes, devils or dogfish ? Fowl, flesh, or fish ? I watched them with close attention while asking myself these questions ; but ere my cogitations were finished they separated, spread their wings and took flight, apparently, but it seemed strange they did not rise from the surface of the water. They neaved us presently, and I made them out to be, instead of birds, small sail-boats. "Love launched a fairy boat," &c. No love for us there, I guess, was my mental comment. "Pilots," I heard some one say. They came fluking towards us, their comparatively large sprit-sails hurrying them along at no contemptible rate of speed. There were about fifteen of them, and it seemed evident A RACE. 13 all could not get a job from our hazy skipper. "That's Jeff's navy," remarked one. "Hooray (or the boat that's ahead !" sang out the 'colonel.' "Bully tor the little fellow with the big sail !" exclaimed another. "I'll bet on the cross-gaffed, giraffe-colored one !" "Bully for the rip-staving roarer that wins !" "Aint she a-ripping up the old salt water canvas, skearing the sharks and astonishing the sea sarpints ?" "I'il bet Jeff.'s in that boat, and he's coming to ask us to dine with him in Richmond !" "Beauregard's in the second one !" "No, sir, that's Stonewall Jackson !" "D n StonewallJackson, or any other man !" and remarks of a like character attested the interest felt in this novel contest by others as well as myself. The boats were pelting away in fine style, each having a loose rein. Then hurrah, my hearties ! the lucky man wins, and "first come first served !" Two of the number were distinctly ahead of all the rest, and one of these slightly ahead of the other. "But Cutty Sark, before the rest, Hard upon noble Maggie prest — " so that when they came up it was difficult to say which was first, and both came aboard to dispute the point, while the remaining unsuccessful ones kept on, as if philosophically resigned to a fate they could not overcome. Our hazy skipper, who was not very particular about expenses when Uncle Sam had to foot the bills, and to end all disputes, took both pilots — a piece of diplomacy I hardly expected his thick head capable of conceiving. The anchor was hoisted, and away we sped over the dark, swampy waters of Pamlico Sound. Roanoke Island lay to our right, and ever and anon we caught glimpses of the low, swampy lands of Hyde and Plymouth counties. To the left or south we beheld 14 UP THE NEUSB. a continuation of islands, and shortly after the main land of Cartaret county became visible. It seemed almost wholly unsettled, the wilderness appearance being only here and there relieved by the small clearing of a turpentine plantation, fishing establishment, or the twenty-acre field of a "poor white." We soon made Neuse river— a noble stream, upon the banks of which turpentine, pitch, rosin and tar enough might be made to supply the markets of the North. As we ascended the river the signs of habitation became more numerous although seeming "few and far between" to the eye accustomed to the more frequent settlements on Northern rivers, and the sombre hues of the pine, cedar and cypress forests were occasionally enlivened by the brighter foliage of persimmon, walnut and fig trees, the last flourishing here in great luxuriance, bearing two or rather a continuation of crops of delicious fruit in a season, and may be seen on every farm or plantation in patches of from a few trees to orchards ot twenty-five acres in extent. We could also trace the courses of the many "branches" or creeks from the lighter foliage of the gum and other water-loving trees. In the afternoon we* passed Slocum's Creek, where Burnside landed his troops the evening before the battle of Newbern, and soon the spires of this city, and the shipping, hove in sight; and towards the close of the day, after a sail of ten hours, during which time we steamed eighty or ninety miles, we drew up at the pier and prepared to disembark, thankful that we could again set foot on land and leave forever the accursed "Haze" and her brutal captain and crew. "Mind, I tell you," said one of the latter, "bad as you think the old 'Haze' is, you will before long be glad to be on board of her again — if you'd be let /" He was laughed at; but I doubt not many of them, ere six months elapsed, wished themselves anywhere else than where NEWBERN. 15 they were. Still they could not see it then, but felt happy, like young bears, with all their troubles before them. The dilapidated and seedy condition of the wharves, and the ruins of houses, mills and turpentine factories, impressed me with a premonition of what I should yet witness of the ravages of war in this fair land. The city of Newbern bears the appearance of some age, is regularly laid out, the streets intersecting each other at right angles, and well protected from the merciless heat of summer by fine old elm trees, intermixed here and there with the chaney and other trees the names of which I do not recollect. The city is located at a point of land formed by the junction of the Trent river with the Neuse, and has altogether an imposing appear- ance viewed from the approach by water. The Mass. 23d Keg't, Col. Kurtz, (who was provost marshal,) was then doing provost duty in the city. When the order for landing was given, each scrambled ashore with the whole of his household furniture upon his back. After passing through a part of the city, we struck the railroad bridge, (destroyed by the rebels after their defeat, but rebuilt by our forces,) crossing which, and marching a mile or two, halted at the encampment of the 17th on the Trent river, where we were welcomed by the men of the various companies, many of whom found friends and acquaintances among the 'raw recruits.' My comrade had friends in the Maiden Company (K), of which we were henceforth to form a part, and we received a hearty wel- come from the members of mess 5, some of the good-natured ones of which taxed themselves to the amount of nearly a dollar to procure from the sutler something more palatable for our first meal than 'hard tack and salt horse.' After 'taps' the lights were put out, and we disposed ourselves upon the tent-floor to sleep, in the manner of spokes of a cart- wheel, our feet toward the hub, which consisted of the gun-rack 16 IN CAMP ON THE TttENT. around the tent-pole, there to revolve in the circle of dreams of home and friends far distant. Before closing our eyes, however, and while inquiries were plied and answered thick and fast, one of the mess startled the newcomers by exclaiming — "A rat ! A rat ! I have him !" "Pass him around !" was the general cry. "Now I've got him !" another exclaimed. This was followed by a gurgling noise, as in the first instance. The 'rat' came nearer, and presently I smelt him. There was no mistaking that 'rat/ — he came from Jersey and was surnamed 'lightning,' and cost the fourth part of a soldier's pay for one month. Being eagerly pressed to taste him, I did taste, but that was all — the smell was enough, and I passed him over to the next man. Sleep at length overcome me, and 1 dreamed of rats made of glass, squealing "Jersey lightning ! Jersey lightning !" until morning, when I awoke to find myself surrounded by comrades busy eating breakfast. Beside me stood a dipper of smoking hot coffee, some hard bread and salt beef, provided by one of the most thoughtful of my new friends. After guard-mounting (9 a.m.) the recruits were drawn up in line, assigned to the various companies, examined by the surgeon, and, after a few words of encouragement or advice from their captains (and mayhap a glass of whisky), returned to their quarters, feeling relieved, no doubt, that the affair was over. Thus, in the course of about an hour, the recruits were disposed of, and duly incorporated with the regiment — to share in its messes and marches, its skirmishes and scratches, its picket duty and plunder, its whisky and quinine, its tents and hospitals, its hard tack and salt horse, its pea soup and pea coffee, its baked beans without brown bread, its pride and its perils, its glory and its graveyards. OFFICERS OF THE SEVENTEENTH. 17 The following is a list of the principal staff and line officers of the 17th, the companies and where they v/ere raised, together with an account — taken from a diary or journal of Mr. Win. Noble, of Saugus, (the first color sergeant)— of the doings of the regiment from its inception down to the 5th of January, 1862 : Colonel — Thomas I. C. Amory. [Mr. Amory was born in Boston, Nov. 27, 1828; entered West Point in 1846, and graduated in 1851, when he was ap- pointed 2d lieutenant in the 7th Infantry, ordered to Fort Smith in Arkansas, and was promoted 1st lieutenant in 1855. In 1858 he was ordered to Utah, under the command of the late Gen. Albert Sidney Johnson, who joined the rebels at the outbreak of the Southern rebellion and was killed at Shiloh; was ordered to Boston on recruiting service in 1860, and was promoted to a captaincy May 7, 1861. When the war broke out, he obtained leave of absence from the War Department, and accepted a commission from Gov. Andrew as Colonel of the 17th Mass. Vols., on Sept. 7th, 1861. Since the regiment has been in the Department of North Carolina, he has acted as General of Brigade ; but whether his nomination for the brigadiership has been confirmed or not, I am unable to say. Of this I am cer- tain, however, that there are few officers at this time servin° in our armies better capable of wearing the star or more fully deserving of it than Thomas I. C. Amory.] Lieut. Colonel— John F. Fellows. [Mr. Fellows, of Chelsea, is well known in Boston, having been for many years connected with its daily press. He was also an active member of the State Militia. When the war broke out he offered his services to Gov. Andrew, from whom he received a commission as Lieut. Colonel of the 17th Reg't on the 21st of August, 1861. He has proved himself a capable officer and a thoroughly brave man. I shall have frequent occasion to speak of him hereafter.] 18 OFFICERS AND COMPANIES OF Major — Jones Frankle. (Now, Luther Day.) [Mr. Frankle is a Prussian by birth, and served in the war of 1848 in Germany, at which time he did not "fight mit Sigel," but against him. He received his commission as Major of the 17th on the 1st of August, 1861 ; and proved himself a capable and efficient officer. In June, 1863, he resigned his commission in the 17th for the purpose of raising an artillery regiment (the 2d Mass. Heavy Artillery) which he now commands, and which is doing duty in the field and in forts in the various parts of North Carolina held by our forces. He was succeeded by senior captain (Co. F) Luther Day, of Haverhill, a very good officer.] Adjutant— B. N. Mann. (Now, H. A. Cheever.) [Mr. Mann was, I believe, for many years connected with the Boston Post Office. He is a brave man, and generous as he is brave. He was succeeded by Mr. Cheever in the Fall of '62.] Quartermaster — Capt. Harris was commissioned Quarter- master of the 17th ; but resigned in the Fall of '61, and was suc- ceeded by Lieut, (afterwards Capt.) Thompson, who died at Newbern in October, '62. Lieut. Dexter succeeded, and is the present incumbent. Surgeon — Isaac F. Galloupe. [Dr. Galloupe is a hard-working, skillful, efficient and humane man, and discharges his duty in a manner that commands the respect and gratitude of every man who comes under his treat- ment. The Dr. is from Lynn.] Assistant Surgeon — Wm. H. W. Hinds, of Boston. [The men have no exalted opinion of this Dr.'s kindness or capacity, though he seems attentive and a hard worker. Per- haps his unpopularity arises from the fact that he unmercifully doses all whom he considers 'bummers' (i. e., those who are too lazy to do duty and 'play sick' to escape its performance) with salts, jalap, blue pills, and especially quinine; but I think he often punishes in this manner the deserving as well as the guilty.] THE SEVENTEENTH. 19 Co. A — Capt. Henry Splaine, of Haverhill — was raised prin- cipally in Newbury port. Co. B — Capt. Enoch F. Tompkins, of Haverhill (vice Capt. S. C. Bancroft, S. Danvers, resigned) — South Danvers. Co. C — Capt. Nehemiah P. Fuller — Danvers. Co. D — Capt. Ivory N. Richardson, of Maiden (Capt. Lev^ Thompson, of Cambridge, deceased) — Salisbury and Amesbury. Co. E — Capt. Michael McNamara, of Haverhill— Stoneham and Haverhill. Co. F — Capt. Day (now Major) — Haverhill. Co. G — Capt. G. W. Kenney, of Danvers— Rockport and Salem-. Co. //—Capt. J. K. Lloyd— Boston and Fall River. Co. /—Capt. Wm. W. Smith, of Danvers (vice Capt. Thos. Weir) — Lawrence. Co. K — Capt. Joseph R. Simonds, of Melrose — Maiden, Medford and Sausiuc;. " Recruiting for this regiment commenced as early as the fall of Fort Sumter, but owing to the embarrassed condition of the State, the hesitation of the General Government in regard to accepting troops, and the want of authority on the part of the Governor to act, this regiment was obliged to wait from week to week without any decisive answer as to the intention of the Government, concerning its organization. The companies were formed on the militia basis, and were desirous of a regimental organization, and to be mustered into the service, but every effort which the company officers made in that direction, seemed to be counteracted by the dominant political and monied influ- ence which was brought to bear in favor of other regimental organizations, to the disparagement and detriment of the com- panies comprising the 17th. While others were splendidly provided for by private munificence, and hurried off to the seat 20 LEAVE CAMP AND ARRIVE IN BALTIMORE. of war, this regiment was unprovided by the State with an t organization, clothing, arms, equipments or rations. An opinion i prevailed at one time, that all idea of a regimental organization i must be given up, and the companies enter the United States a service, through some other State organization. Captains s Fuller of Danvers, and Day of Haverhill, determined on bring- ing the matter to a/ocus. " They visited the Governor, and after several ineffectual I efforts to get an audience, at length succeeded, and informed: His Excellency that they were going into the army, and should take their commands with them; that they wanted to go in a Massachusetts Regiment, and unless accepted by the State,, should go into the Mozart Regiment of New York, as one or two other "companies from Massachusetts had already done. Orders were given them by the Governor to go into the camp at Lynnfield. The other companies of which this regiment is composed, were ordered to the same place, and all arrived there between the 10th and 12th of July. They were mustered into the United States service on the 22d, remained in camp until the 23d of August, when they were ordered to Baltimore, and arrived in that city on the 25th, at 4 o'clock p.m. The princi-i pal duty of the regiment thus far, had been of a police character, and it was moved about either as a whole or a part, from one: portion of the city to another, as circumstances required. " Nov. 15, Co.'s F, K, E, G, H, and C, with Captain Nims 1 Battery, were detailed to form a part of the brigade under com- mand of General Lockwood, for an expedition into the counties of Accomac and Northampton, Va., for the purpose of break- ing up a rebel force concentrating there. The expedition went: on board a steam transport, and on the 17th arrived at New- town. Here they pitched their tents for the night, and the next day marched a distance of sixteen miles into the country. The rebels had felled trees across the roads in many places to ob- EXPEDITION INTO EAST VIRGINIA. 21 struct the advance of the troops, but they were cleared away with but little delay. One deserted rebel battery pierced for four guns, was found on this day's march. "On the 19th, the regiment reached Oak Hall, and on the 20th the men went out fowling, and were very successful, taking a large amount of game, which was dressed and partaken of by the men with double relish, as they were on short rations of hard bread and salt junk, and were much exhausted by the fatigues of their march. On the 21st marched to Drummond- town, a distance of twenty-seven miles, performing the journey in eight hours, notwithstanding the many obstructions thrown across the road by the rebels, and the burned bridges which required them to march round, following the bend of the streams. On this march, between Oak Hall and Drummond- town, another rebel battery was discovered, pierced for fourteen guns. The stars and stripes were at once raised over it, and three rousing cheers given. re re "November 23, took from the rebels seven guns, 150 small arms, one barrel of powder, besides some swords, shot and shell. At the jail were stored 8,000 rounds of cartridges and 200 small arms, which were also taken. Two gun-carriages and one brass howitzer were also found secreted in the woods, and captured. On the 26th, marched to Pongoteague, a distance of twelve miles, and found another deserted battery. "November 27th, marched from Pongoteague to Franktown, a distance of twelve miles ; and on the 28th, marched to East- ville, thirteen miles, taking on the way one brass cannon, seven horses, some small arms and swords, besides several other arti- cles contraband of war. The rebels had an unfinished earth- work here which they deserted on the approach of the Federal troops. "A very large proportion of the arms and military stores cap- tured were returned by Gen. Lockwood to the parties claiming 22 IN BALTIMORE. them, creating great dissatisfaction among the troops, and rendering the General liable to the suspicion that he sympa- thized with the rebels. "The object of the expedition having been attained, the: brigade was broken up, and the Mass. 17th embarked at Cher- rystone on the 1st and 2d of Dec, and sailed on the 4th for: Baltimore, where they arrived the same evening, and went into) their old quarters. On the 18th they commenced building bar- racks [on Stewart's Place] for winter quarters and moved into them on the 5th of January." (These barracks are still stand- ing, and used as a general hospital.) In February Co.'s F and H relieved the 6th Michigan at McKim's Place, and K and G the 4th Wisconsin at Patterson's Park, those regt's being destined to form part of Gen. Butler's force then about to sail tor New Orleans. On the 14th of March four other Co.'s of the 17th were ordered to Fort Mar- shall, East Baltimore, to assist in defending that fortification from an attack by rebel sympathizers, who, emboldened by the destructive raid of the Merrimac in Hampton Roads, meditated a rising in Baltimore, if not throughout the State. When the 17th arrived in Baltimore they found the people of that city nearly all 'secesh' in sentiment, and seeming only constrained from rising by the presence in, and passage through, the city, of large numbers of troops. It will then be readily inferred that the men of this regiment had no very enviable task to perform in endeavoring to keep the peace and making these disaffected people see the evil of their ways. In doing this, however, they were not fools enough to use moral suasion alone — that would be casting pearls before swine — No ; they used arguments that were far more convincing, such as street drills, practicing at street firing, &c, all of which turned the hate of the 'secesh' citizens into fear — and, finally, their fear became a feeling of respect. What if the men were insulted DEPARTURE FOR NORTH CAROLINA. 23 every time they walked the streets — the women (who were the most outspoken) at length became weary of abusing them, and the men who attempted to insult them never tried that game a second time ; for they found in the men of this regiment a spirit that would brook no abuse — an indomitable, dare-devil disposi- tion that met them half way with a bovvie knife as long and as keen as their own, and a pistol as deadly. Thus they fought their way to respect, and this latter feeling ripened into affec- tion, which is shown by the fact that when the regiment was about to sail for North Carolina, the ladies of Baltimore pre- sented it with a magnificent silk flag, upon which was painted a fine portrait of Washington. On the 27th of March, '62, the regiment embarked at Balti- more for Newbern, North Carolina, which place they reached on the 1st of April, and encamped on a field to the west of the city, — near where Fort Totten now stands, and which was then in process of construction. On the 7th of April the regi- ment was ordered out on picket duty — the left wing to Jack- son's place on the Trent road, and the right wing to a place called the Red House on the Neuse road, relieving the 24th and 27th Mass. regt's. The regiment remained on picket until the 30th May, during which time they had frequent skirmishes with the enemy, and made several raids and forays into the enemy's country. Shortly after the regiment went to Jackson's place, a few companies made a dash about nine miles up trie Trent road to a church, where they had a smart brush with the ' rebs,' two of whom were killed and one wounded, and one taken prisoner. It was here that one of those ludicrous incidents occurred which often serve to relieve the dark outline of war's grim visage. When the enemy were come up with, and firing became fre- quent, Lt. Col. Fellows ordered the men to open right and left to let the artillery pass to the front. One of the captains, mistak- ing the full purport of the order, and thinking the ranks were 24 OUT ON PICKET SKIRMISHING. to be opened to allow the rebels a fair field and an open road to come into close quarters with his men, sang out : *"Open right and left, and let the d — d scallywags through!" Captain Weir, of Co. I, with his command, and as many volunteers as wished to accompany them, made a raid to Pol- lockville to capture cotton, and anything else that might prove of value to the "rebs" in their belligerent character. Now, as this was not the first time Tom Weir (as he was familiarly called) had invaded the sanctity of that village, the rebs had a special eye to his movements, and lay in wait for him. He had a mule team loaded with cotton, corn and other plunder preceding him on his return, which the rebs in ambush allowed to pass ; but just as the company got opposite to where they were concealed, they poured in a volley which killed three and wounded the same number — and put the men into such a panic that they fled. The captain stood, and endeavored to rally them, but to no purpose, and he had to follow and leave those who had fallen to their fate (which was being stripped of arms, equipments, clothes, and whatever valuables they had upon them), until rescued by the reinforcement which came up promptly — to find the rebels flown. For this Captain Weir was court-martialed, and dismissed the service — a sentence which was universally condemned by the men, who considered him a brave officer, having done all a man could do under the cir- cumstances. Captain Lloyd of Company H, next tried bis hand in Pollocksville, but lost three men by the upsetting of a boat in the Trent river on his outward march. He, however, took some plunder and two prisoners. The results of all these scouts and forays were the capture of several thousand dollars' worth of cotton, corn, cattle, hens, &c, (there must have been foul play somewhere). The regiment returned to Newbern on the 30th of May THE MAJOR TREES A GUERILLA. 25 and on the 26th of June were ordered to Swift Creek — upon approaching the bridge leading across which they were fired upon by the rebels (without sustaining any damage) who had a battery masked by a breastwork or fort of shingles. The 17th charged across the bridge in fine style (the bridge was a lightly built one, and swayed and shook under the combined weight of 600 men in such a manner as to lead to the belief that it would break down, but it didn't) ; but upon crossing they found the enemy had flown. Three companies went up the road in pursuit some distance, but the ' rebs' were nowhere to be found. They halted near a dwelling house, when some of the men went into an adjoining negro hut, where a pot of meat and cabbage was in process of being cooked, which they pro- ceeded to confiscate; but just as they had commenced their feast an officer came up and drove them off, saying: "Dum thee, did thee coom here to ploonder." At the same time, it was asserted, though I don't believe it, that the officer who thus drove them from the feast had his pock- ets filled with sweet potatoes and other " ploonder." Three prisoners were taken. One of them a lad about 16 years old, was thus interrogated by the Major: " Vat for you be guerilla for ?" " I'm not a guerilla, sir ; I'm in the regular Confederate service." "Vat for you lay in ambush, den ?" "I didn't lay in any bush, sir ; I was standing behind a tree." " Ha ! You be von rascally guerilla, and we vill shtring you up to a tree, ven we arrive in Newbern !" But it is needless to say this threat was not carried out. The reg't here received orders to rejoin the division (the 9th army corps) which was about to leave the Department with Gen. Burnside, and started cf a Sunday morning 28th (without breakfast) on their return. The weather was intensely hot, and 26 A MARCH IN THE SAND AND SUN. the sand on the road was ankle deep. The case, however, was pressing, and the men were urged to their utmost ; but the task was too much for them, — and when the reg't arrived at the landing about 4 p.m., after a march of 22 miles, it numbered little more than a full company — the remaining 400 or 500 being distributed along the road for miles back. They, however, kept coming in in squads of from two to twenty during the remaining part of the afternoon and evening — and a more tired and thoroughly used up lot of men it would be difficult to find anywhere. To make matters worse, when the reg't arrived at the landing opposife Newbern, they found no transportation for them, and nothing wherewith to satisfy the cravings of hunger. It was not until about 12 o'clock at night that they received a ration of hard bread and salt meat ; but no vessels arrived to transport them across, and they were forced to lay out upon the sandy beach, without shelter, in a pelting, pitiless rain, which had set in early in the evening. Next morning a couple of scows or flat-boats arrived, and they were taken across; but Gen. Burnside pitying their forlorn and used up condition, and thinking it would be an act of cruelty to put men in such a state on board transports, ordered the 6th New Hampshire reg't to take their place. Thus the Seventeenth were cheated by fate out of their share of the glory of South Mountain, Antietam, Bull Run 2d, Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville, and Knoxville ; and were compelled to silently and doggedly face and fight the most deadly of human foes in its own malarial fens and swamps. About the first of July the reg't was ordered to camp on the south side of the Trent river near the county bridge, to do picket and outpost duty, which consisted of sending a company to Bray's Ferry and plantation about three miles out, and another to Evans' Mills— seven miles down the railroad towards Beaufort. RAIDS TO POLLOCKSVILLE AND SWIFT CREEK. 27 About July 25th the regiment went in an expedition to Pol- locksville, and constructed a bridge across the Trent river for the entire column to cross upon, after reaching which place, Col. Amory, who was in command, decided to push on to Tren- ton ; but upon approaching to within four miles of the latter place he found the enemy too strong, and withdrew without bringing on an engagement. August 20th, six companies of the 17th went to Swift Creek, again, accompanied by a section of the New York Marine Ar- tillery and four boat howitzers. Lt. Col. Fellows, who was in command of the expedition, having missed the boat that con- veyed the reg't and artillery across the river, the command devolved upon the Major, who marched them about a mile from the landing, and halted to await the Colonel's coming. The column halted opposite a dwelling, and, as is often the case under like circumstances, there was a rush for the well to fill canteens. Two of the men, however, strayed into a field and were making a flank movement upon a pile of tumble-down log outbuildings, supposed to abound in hens, chickens, eggs, &o. One of these men, a very tall and large specimen of humanity- was named Gilman; the other was a small man, and, for my purpose, nameless. The vigilant Major detected this unauthorized flanking affair, and, being determined to put a stop to all such unmilitary proceedings, sung cut: "Vat for you shtray off dat way ? Come back, I say to you ! Dou-bel twit!" (quick) The little man obeyed, and came back at a dog-trot. Gilman, however, hastened back slowly — at much too slow a gait to suit his impatient superior, who yelled out again : "Dou-bel twit! — I say— dou bel twit !" But no faster came Gilman on, and the Major (who was a little man) rushed to him, and seizing him by the coat collar as he was crossing a fence, dragged him over, — then,- drawing his 28 WHAT THE MAJOR COULD DO TOM CROKE. sword and flourishing it about the head of the still doggedly defiant Giluian, exclaimed : "You tink, because I am small, I'm be afraid of you ? I will let you know ! Dou-bel twit ! now, or I will make two Gilman of you!" There was a man called Tom Croke in Co. E — an extremely hard ticket — quarrelsome, venomous, and altogether thoroughly depraved. He had been a source of trouble and annoyance to the officers of the company ever since he came into it. On this expedition, I believe, he shot the top of one of his fingers off — an accident, as he told the captain (McNamara) — "Devil d n you," replied the latter, "it's a pity it wasn't your head !" Tom Croke, for this or some other misdemeanor, was subse- quently court-martialed and sent to Fort Macon to serve out his time, from which place he escaped to the rebels. On his way from the Fort to rebeldom he met a deserter coming into our lines, whom he directed as to the best route to pursue, and who in turn gave him such information as he desired to facilitate his escape. When the expedition arrived at the bridge over Swift Creek it was evening. Our cavalry, which had preceded them, were bivouacked for the night on the other side, and our men at first took them to be rebels, but were soon undeceived. There was a store-house in the village of Swift Creek, con- taining a variety of articles in the dry goods, grocery and merchandise line. Some of the boys smelt the plunder, and proceeded to confiscate* The wife of the owner of the store suspecting what was going on, went to Col. Fellows and told him the men were breaking in, and he immediately repaired to the scene of operations to put a stop to such work. A member of Co. K, who had been left on the watch, gave warning of the colonel's approach, and the raiders hid. "i'm on guard, sir." 29 "What bo! there, — what does all this mean? What are you doing here?" (To Co. K man.) "I'm on guard, sir." "All right, madam,'' said the colonel ; "you see there is a guard on." What plunder the boys obtained it -would be bootless to relate. The expedition returned to Newborn, burning the bridge after them. The camp of the 17th was situated in what was formerly a cotton field, on the banks of the river Trent, affording excellent facilities for washing clothes and bathing, of which most of the men availed themselves, — and at all hours of the day men could be seen bathing in the river, or squatted along its margin wash- ing clothes. It seemed at first sight to one unacquainted with the peculiarities of the climate, to be a well chosen and healthy location (and indeed it was about the best in the vicinity) ; but the hanging mosses that everywhere shrouded the few solitary cedars which still survived the ravages of the pioneer's axe, showed the unmistakeable presence of fever and ague — that pest of new and warm countries. About a couple of hundred yards up the river, close to the county bridge, a fort was in process of completion, — the work of 'contrabands,' numbers of whom I observed busily employed in and around it. Beyond this were encamped some light batteries ; while still further on, and at the crossing of a deep, sluggish stream called Brice's Creek, a number of detailed men were at work constructing a block-house (a square-built fort, made of hewn logs, compactly put together — and most conveniently constructed to be knocked to pieces by a six-pounder about a poor devil's ears). Between the artillery camp and the block-house was a brick dwelling- house, once the property of Gov. Speight, the late owner and family of which fled after the battle of Newbern. This house 30 ACROSS THE TRENT. was aiterwards demolished to supply bricks for chimneys of barracks built near by in the Fall. To the rear of this house, about 75 yards distant, beautifully shaded by fine old trees, was the tomb of Gen. Speight, a revolutionary hero, and one of the early Governors of North Carolina. The plain on which the 17th were encamped is about two and a half miles long, and from one-half to two miles wide, and had, evidently, before the rude hand of war obliterated their boundaries and landmarks, consisted of two or three plantations. This plain was an excellent place for drilling, and nearly all reviews were held there. The whole field gave evidence of having, at different times and in different parts, been camped upon by infantry, artillery, and cavalry — and everywhere evidences of military occupation were visible in the shape of broken bottles, dilapidated canteens, dippers and plates, and remnants of worn-out shoes, coats, blouses, pants, and harness, forgotten ^tent-stakes, sink holes and caved-iu wells. While overhead and around, unnoticed and unmolested, on lazy wing sailed the huge turkey-buzzard, scent- ing the dead carcase and decayed garbage from afar, and patiently biding the absence of man from its vicicinity ere he descended to gorge himself therewith. I noticed a great variety of wild flowers in the fields, some of which were very beautiful. A species of cactus grows wild here ; but is a very inferior kind. Wild garlic is also to be met with everywhere. A coarse grass, called Bear's grass, grows in bunches here, the -leaves of which, when subjected to a roasting process in hot ashes, are uncommonly strong, and take the place of small ropes and cords with the natives, who apply it in a variety of ways, from the suspension of a dead pig to the tying of a shoe, or temporarily supplying the place of a lost button. From the centre of these bunches of Bears grass a stem five or six feet high shoots up in the spring-time, which is crowned with CONFLICT WITH 'GRAY-BACKS' AND THEIR ALLIES. 31 a crest of yellow flowers very beautiful to behold at a distance. A few days' experience of camp-life gave me a better knowl- edge of its comforts and discomforts, its tribulations and my philosophy. It was the middle of August, and the weather very warm. The first night of my abode in my new quarters was undisturbed from any cause, from the fact that I was tired after the sea-voyage. But the second night I was destined to feel some of the annoyances to be endured by campaigners in warm climates. Mosquitoes revel in this congenial atmosphere, as do also the blue-tail fly, and a species of biting insect like the com- . mon house-fly, while gallinippers, gnats, ants, and biting sand- fleas, (which play second fiddle to the old-fashioned iron-clad chaps, their bites making one squirm as if twinged by a bad con- science,) and grey-backs, all attack the hapless sleeper in succession, in a body, by detail, in squads, battalion, — in brigades drawn up in echelon — in front, flank and rear. They scale the walls of his fortress in the very teeth of a fierce cannonade of imprecations — burst the barriers of bedclothes — penetrate the abatti of woolen socks and tighily-tied drawers — and though, even after gaining the inside of your works, they are subjected to a deadly cross-fire of small arms, yet they invariably "attain the object of their reconnoisance." The bayonet is powerless against them, and they never draw off from the attack till fairly exhausted with the feast of blood. What surprised me most was the utter indifference manifested by the veterans to the petty annoyance of vermin and insects, and the matter-of-fact way in which they overhauled their cloth- ing and disposed of the greybacks when found. For about a week the recruits had "fine times," as the soldiers thought, having nothing to do but "bum around," and sleep — when they could, which was mostly in the day time. The days were excessively hot, as were the nights until about 11 or 12 o'clock, when it became uncomfortably cold. y 32 OLD BRAY AND HIS LADY. During this week of leisure, I pretty thoroughly explored the region in the vicinity of our camp, and visited Newbern on 'pass,' but found nothing special there to note, if I may except the fact that there were many really cozy and comfortable- looking dwellings, and numerous flower and fruit gardens— some of which gave evidences of former tasteful ownership, but which seemed of late to have come in for their share of the general neglect and destruction. Those of the inhabitants who still clung to their homes seemed to wear a sullen and discontented look, with some exceptions, and these were of the mercantile class, who, with the sutlers and others who follow the wake of armies, seemed to fall in for their fair proportion of the trade. About the greatest curiosity to me was what was called the new cemetery, in the upper section or suburb of the city, — the wall enclosing which is built of shell-rock — a curious fossil con- crete obtained in some part of the State — where I do not know. There are many graves, and a few tasteful tombstones. Be- yond this in what has become an open field or common, arc several soldiers' graveyards consecrated by the poor fellows whose bodies repose there, who for love of fatherland, left home and kindred to return no more. My first duty on picket was at Mr. Bray's plantation. '-Old Bray" the boys called him, and being on the outpost which was near his house, 1 determined to give the old gentleman a call. I found Mr. and Mrs. Bray at home, the former seated on the piazza reading a newspaper, and the latter squatted on the door- step doing 'nothing in particular.' They were a lean pair, (but their leaniny was not on our side, as I afterwards found), and had a family of five or six lean boys and girls. They certainly looked an unromantic enough realization of our ideal Southern planter and his family. Mr. Bray was apparently about 45 years of age, and his wife perhaps as old, although she seemed much older. They both looked sour and cross enough to dispense 'niggers' and pigs. 33 with the use of vinegar at meal-time. But they did not seem indisposed to have a chat with the Yankee 'hirelings,' and soon I was made acquainted with all their griefs— the husband commencing the relation of them, but the wife invariably wind- ing up. I then for the first time learnt how this benevolent planter and his amiable wife had been abused — how, first of all, notwith- standing a 'protection' from Gen. Burnside, their 'niggers' had been enticed away, all efforts to get them back proving fruitless, owing to the "abolition officers and soldiers." "Niggers and pigs were the only things that ever paid . any ways well," put in Mrs. Bray. They had only five pigs and three 'niggers' left now, and did not know how soon they'd go off with the rest. Some of the soldiers who had been on picket near their plantation had behaved very bad, and had stolen and destroyed much of their corn and all their water melons (melancholy to relate) ; and Co. K of the 17th, was the worst of the lot — and the lady wound up with the expression of a hope "that the new recruits would be more of gentlemen than the old soldiers, and not seek to injure her as they had done." Mr. Bray then showed me his melon patch which, though evincing some traces of the recent vandal act, still bore a goodly number, which I made a note of. He also showed me & patch of cotton, in full bloom, — and after another hour of, desultory conversation, I left with the impression that old Bray was a 'great man on a small scale,' but his wife was the greater of the two. - — About September 1st a storm came on, accompanied by rain,, which lasted that and the following day and night, giving us and our traps a thorough soaking. During all this time I did not sleep a wink. The third morning, wet, sleepless and weary, I was detailed for guard, and was put on the third ^relief (from 1 34 IS THAT A 'NAGER' I SEE BEFORE ME? to 3 p.m., and 1 to 3 a.m), and during the first two hours of my guard was refreshed hy a 'jolly' shower of rain, which came in at my coat collar and soon filled and overflowed my boots. When the third relief turned in for the night, I lay down with the rest, on the wet ground, and attempted to sleep ; but it was no go — so, lighting my pipe (sole comforter at times), I left the tent, and sat under a tree near by, and smoked the hours away (rain or no rain) until the third relief fell in, when taking my musket and falling in to my place, I was soon on my post, which extended from a tree (blown over by the wind) to the river bank, about 85 paces distant. I felt drowsy, but paced my beat rapidly to keep awake, until tired out, I leaned against the inclined trunk of the fallen tree to rest awhile. My brain was in a whirl, and everything about me seemed to reel and oscillate unsteadily. It was moonlight, T^ut cloudy. More than once I thought I detected myself napping, and shook myself, and pinched my nose and ears to keep awake. My comrade, whose beat joined mine, came up occasionally, and we exchanged a few words. I exhorted him if he caught me napping to rouse me. He had left me, and was near the other end of his beat, when, on looking after him, I beheld, about ten paces from me, as plainly as if in daylight, the form of a huge negro. He wore a broad-brimmed hat, a linen coat blue or dark striped, vest, white shirt (seemingly of cotton,) open at the neck, around which was a colored handkerchief tied sailor fashion, the ends hanging down loose. His pants seemed of light fabric, checked. I could see his countenance plainly. It seemed, if anything, smiling, though there was something peculiar in its expression, as well as the attitude, for the figure seemed leaning its weight on one foot, its left hand resting on the hip, and the right arm hanging loosely by its side. The expression of the darkey was so peculiar— jaunty, saucy — and he looked full at me, that for a moment I was taken by surprise, — and, during that moment 'NIGGER ON THE BRAIN.' 35 made the observations just recorded — but quickly recovering, I brought my piece to 'charge,' and called out — "Who comes there?" But no response was deigned by my darky visitor. I chal- lenged again, and again, with the same result, the object still retaining its position, and regarding me with the same compla- cent look — when my comrade, who heard my 6rst challenge came up, and inquired what the matter was, just as I was about bringing my piece to 'present' to fire. I pointed to the object of my challenging, who still kept his ground in the same position. He laughed at what he supposed was a joke I was trying to come on him — not being able to see anything in the spot I pointed out, — and resumed his beat. The thought then occurred to me for the first time that what I saw was not real. What then was it ? I asked myself. Surely I am not troubled with that disease known as 'nigger on the brain !' And I again leaned against the trunk of the fallen tree to think the subject over, all the while keeping my eyes fixed upon the object of my thoughts, which stood the scrutiny unmoved. Now, I am not 36 FALSE WIZARD, AVAUNT ! superstitious by nature, and still less so by education and expe- rience, — and so I viewed the apparition without a particle of fear or awe, and tried to account to myself for its appearance in the most natural and rational manner. I came to the conclu- sion there and then, that want of rest and the stimulation of the coffee and tobacco I had been indulging in unduly excited my brain, which produced the hallucination, on the same prin- ciple that it is produced in certain stages of drunkenness, called delirium tremens. This was a very fair deduction ; but still in front of me stood the grinning darky, as plainly as before. I thought then I would test the unreality of the apparition in another way. If it were an optical -illusion, the figure must recede as I advanced, or follow as I retreated. I accordingly advanced towards it ; but, strange to say, it remained in the same spot, until I was within arm's length, when stretching forth my hand I grasped — nothing. I walked over the exact spot where the figure stood, and returned to my old stand, to be still more puzzled to see the figure in the same spot, with the same expression on its countenance, but with both arms hanging down by its side this time. More puzzled still, I retreated to see if it would follow ; but no — there it stood still gazing after me. I took three or four turns up and down my beat, and on each return to the fallen tree beheld the figure in the same position as last seen. 1 then halted, determined to watch if other changes would manifest themselves in shadowy being before me. My comrade came towards me again, and I reiterated my former tale of the apparition. Still he couldn't see it. But, as I was yet talking of it, and still persisting I saw it, the phantom darky disappeared — not suddenly, but seeming to melt away gradually. "He vanished in the darkness, like a beam Of cold, gray moonlight in a wintry stream." This is the first and only ghost I have ever had the pleasure of seeing, or, more properly speaking, fancying 1 saw. What EVANS' MILLS. 37 caused its appearance I neither know nor care, and only relate the fact (or fancy) because I think it singular. On a Sunday morning, about 10 o'clock, we started for Evans' Mills, to relieve Co. E, which had overstayed their time one week — doubtless from the fact that a large orchard of apple trees was upon the plantation, the fruit of which was a luxury they were loth to leave — small blame to them. After a march of about two hours, we came out upon a clear- ing just beyond a continuation of the rebel line of defences to the right of the Beaufort railroad. Here we saw deserted houses, and a cotton gin ; but no living creature of the human or brute creation, and the place looked solitary and deserted enough — its own sad elegy of war written plainly in the solitude which brooded over the absence of those who once gave animation to the scene, and made ' the wilderness blossom like the rose' with fields of cotton and gardens of bright flowers. About a mile further on, after passing through a narrow belt of woods, we came out upon Evans' plantation. On our right was a field of some eighty acres, about half of which was covered with a young growth of apple trees. On the left was a field of about iwenty acres, at the further end of which was the plantation house, with its negro huts, surrounded with the inevi- table grove of elegant shade trees. Just opposite the front gate of the mansion, the road turned sharp to the right, and on look- ing ahead, we beheld a block-house, nearly completed, in the rear of which was the encampment, and our future abode. Upon reaching the block-house, the road took a turn to the left, down a short, steep hill, skirting the bank of a stream, which it crossed on a rude plank bridge, still turning toward the left. After crossing the bridge, a grist mill lay on the right, and about 60 yards on the left, on the dam of a magnificent pond of water stood a large saw mill, which ran two sets of saws when in op- eration. It was then idle, the dam having broke away. The 38 SWEET POTATOES AND A GOOD APPETITE. road, after crossing the flume of the grist mill led on to the negro village — quite a collection of comfortable houses — built on each side of the cross road, which led to Pollocksville. Just before coming on to the Pollocksville road, in a field to the right was a large cotton gin and press. At the intersection of these roads was our outpost in the day time, the guard being drawn in to the mills at night. The army wagons which accompanied, (with tents, cooking utensils, quartermasters' stores, company baggage, &c.,) arriving a few minutes after, the men soon had plenty to do in erecting tents, and fixing themselves as comfortably as circumstances would permit. There was a little board shanty with two bunks, lately occupied by the drummers of Co. E. To this my com- rade and I 'froze' ; and, having got our traps snugly bestowed — our guns and equipments slung up, and our blankets spread — we sallied forth in quest of plunder. Our first raid was upon the orchard near by ; but it had been picked bare. We, however, subjected every tree to a searching examination, and as the reward of our toil returned with about half a bushel of a apples. On our way back we passed through a small field of sweet potatoes, to which we returned with a sack, and soon were in possession of a bushel of very fine ones. During our absence, foraging, the tents had all been put up, and the men were busy arranging their traps. Charley (our French cook) had not been idle meantime, and had a blazing fire, and coffee ready. Procuring from him a pot, we soon had the satisfaction of seeing some of the sweet potatoes, the fruits of our late raid, smiling upon us, and welcoming us to the feast. Giving the cook a couple of good ones for his accommodation, we retired to our cabin with our coffee, sweet potatoes and 'salt horse,' and made one of the most hearty and satisfactory meals I have ever known. Appetite was our best sauce, exercise had sharpened it, and the new and palatable food agreed so well A LARGE TREE. 39 with the disposition of the stomach, that it had ample satisfaction in embracing its best friend. After eating, with pipe lit, I started forth to take a view of the mansion house, and its surroundings. On entering the front gate, I was struck with the size and beauty of an immense beech tree, whose wide extending branches covered a circle of over 100 feet in diameter— and, Yankee fashion, I immediately com- puted that if cut down it would make over five cords of fire- wood. It must have proved a cool and inviting shade tor the planter and his family in the summer time. Approaching its huge trunk, I observed that the Yankee jacknife had been at work and covered it with the representative names of men irom nearly every United States regiment that had ever been in the department. Besides the huge beech there were numer- ous other trees — elm, cedar, chaney — and the beautiful flower- ing althea. The house was an ordinary two story one, containing about 7 rooms, set on brick blocks about three feet from the ground, and serving as a cool place of resort for the pigs, fowl, and youthful, curly-headed negroes, during the heat of the day. This, together with the plantation attached of some 10,000 acres, seven or eight hundred of which were cleared, together with the mills, and about 1 20 'head of darkies' (all of which excepting two old negroes and their wives, had been 'run up country'), belonged to a Mr. Evans, a son-in-law of Ex-Gov. Morehead, (after whom Morehead city had been named). Evans was, as I afterwards found, a very influential man in that part of the country, and had early become a convert to the doctrine of secession. He raised a company of cavalry, and equipped them at his own expense. He took part in the battle of Newbern, and it must have been a bitter trial for him to leave so fine a property, though I believe he had another plan- tation in the upper part of the State. The regiment to which 40 THE FATE OF EVANS. his company was attached, remained for some time in the State, and had more than one encounter with our cavalry. They were, however, finally ordered to join the army of Vir- ginia, and were, no doubt, engaged in all its conflicts with our army. At the battle of Gettysburg, Evans, who had become a colonel, was wounded, taken prisoner, and died shortly after in hospital at Baltimore. Such has been the fate of an infatuated man, who, like thous- ands of others, left a prosperous and comfortable home tcrplunge in the suicidal fray against the Government under which he was reared and had prospered. He may have repented his folly when too late ; but I doubt it. Such men are as little given to repentance as they are to truth, justice and reason. At the back of the mansion house were two negro huts, where those who were domestics lodged. The body of the negroes were lodged in the village before mentioned about a mile away. Doubtless there was design in this — as the master of bondmen must have lived as insecure amongst his slaves as the tyrant in the midst of his vassals. Adjoining the negro-huts attached to the mansion were the various outhouses and stables, behind which the land sloped to waters of the tortuous stream which emptied into the mill-pond further down. To my view Evans' Mills at first appeared a lonely place ; but a further acquaintance with it materially altered my opinion. Were it not that the restraints which discipline imposes upon the soldier, living in this place would be quite agreeable. There was no lack of game of all kinds, from the red deer, the noctur- nally rambling coon and possum, to the partridge, wild pigeons, grouse, waterfowl, and fish. The latter were the only legitimate sport for the soldiers (and many a finny inhabitant ot those sluggish streams — though shy at times— graced his tin platter), as the necessities of war forbid the use of fire-arms upon any POSSUM UP A GUM TREE. 41 other game than men (butternuts — and some of them mighty hard nuts at that). Occasionally; - however, the negroes, and such of the white inhabitants as were left behind 'when the rush of war was past,' with their coon dogs, and well provided with pine knots to guide them, would sally forth of a night and traverse the banks of the numerous streams and branches, and rarely would they proceed far until the peculiar bay of the dogs denoted that they had lit upon the track of a wary possum or coon, in the direction of which the hunters would hasten, to find the 'critter treed,' and if the tree was too large to cut down, one climbed, and with a club killed or dislodged him. A coon hunt has rarely been unsuccessful, from the great number of the 'animals' abounding, and the excellent training of the dogs, which seem to take after this kind of game as natur- ally as a cat takes after mice. The streams are generally belted with fine groves of cedar, gum, black walnut, locust, and ash trees, intermixed, the whole bearing their proportion of parasites, some of which entwine themselves so closely round the trees they select to climb on as almost to become incorporated with them in the process of time, and look like huge serpents endeavoring to crush out their life but they look beautiful in the summer time, covered with leaves and fruit (for they are not all poisonous or profitless), and many a bunch of rich, purple grapes has the writer purloined from the midst of those masses of tangled creepers. This interming- ling of hardwood trees with the evergreen pines had a pleasing effect upon me, as it recalled the remembrance of the northern forests where the pine, hemlock and spruce were often in the minority. Occasionally, however, the explorer of these Southern woods, would suddenlv come upon a cypress swamp, and he would there behold the incarnation of all that is dismal in a landscape, — especially if, as when I first beheld one, the time was just 42 A CYPRESS SWAMP. before twilight, and the slanting rays of the sun had ceased to penetrate the masses of the forest foliage. A picture, however finely wrought, would fail to give an idea of the utter gloom and funereal solemnity of such a scene; and if any lover or hater of humanity should wish to seek a solitude where, unmolested, he could mourn over the wickedness and folly of mankind, and make himself thoroughly miserable, I would advise him to select a spot in full view of a cypress swamp, — and if he will not suffer enough, do enough penance, and weep enough to wash out and atone for the world's sins — his own included, — in the space of the twelve months, then it will not be the fault of the swamp, I can vouch. I do not wonder that the ancients, even aside from their superstitions, selected the cypress as an emblem of death and mourning — for no one can behold that tree in its na- tive solitude and state without thinking of all the friends he had lost, and would be likely to lose for the next hundred years. — Picture to yourself, gentle reader, the bed of a sluggish stream, enriched by the accumulations of vegetable mould for unknown ages, Until the water forced itself through a deep, narrow chan- nel, winding hither and thither ; that at a former indefinite period, the seeds deposited on this mould germinated, and there arose from its slimy depths, like ghosts that had 'burst their cere- ments,' the mighty cypress trees ; that they continued to grow slowly upward, but toward the base the trunks swelled to undue proportions like the paunches of gluttons — and undoubtedly the cypress is the glutton among trees, as its huge cone-shaped roots are well adapted to the ravenous absorption of air, and the rich liquified food that is forever in process of formation around and above them. And thus they tower up in the midst of their slimy abode, huge, bilious and bloated, and look like a grim array of fallen spirits, which, having attempted to cross into daylight, got stuck in the mud of their mythical Styx. Such is a cypress swamp. COMPANY K ITS OFFICERS. 43 In nationality the men of Co. K comprised Americans, Cana- dians, Provincials, English, Irish, Scotch, French and Germans. In disposition and character, they were nearly as diverse as their nationality ; but taken as specimens of the countries they represented, were about as intelligent and respectable a body of men as could well be expected from such material. The Captain, Joseph R. Simonds, (for many years a book- binder in Spring Lane, Boston,) was a thoroughly patriotic and honest man, a good soldier, with many virtues, and a few faults and foibles (and what man has not these to a greater or less ex- tent.) He took great pride in the well-being and efficiency of his company ; and its good name, and the praise of his superiors for cleanliness, superiority in drill, or having a small sick-list, were to him matters of just pride and gratulation, — and fre- quently, after a creditable performance on drill or parade, he would snap his fingers with delight, and, after dismissal, invite them all to his quarters for a treat. He was careful about the quality of their food, and whenever he could (which was not often) would procure such articles of luxury and dietic change as would be most likely to promote health. He was uniformly kind, obliging and considerate, and did not look upon his men as mere pieces of mechanism that moved when he pulled the wires. He considered them men, — socially his equals, though in reality under his command, and, to a certain extent at his mercy. He rarely abused his authority — never maliciously ; and though he occasionally did injustice to some deserving men — it was, I think, more from an error of judgment than through design. Yet he was popular and unpopular with the men. Soldiers like sailors will grumble, and it is a privilege they often abuse ; but, the fit over, they all invariably acknowledged his worth, and disposition to treat them well. The first Lieut (J. A. Greeley) was of a quiet disposition, a strict (but not over strict) disciplinarian, and a man of consider- 44 JESSE HITCHINGS— BILLY PATTERSON. able genius in engineering (he subsequently had the planning and superintendence of several fortifications near Newbern). He was a strict temperance man, and wished the men to prac- tice this virtue also. He has since been detached from the re