^'•_ ^u A^^ ' wi'^ \. Z' y^^c- ^^^ ^< IC) 1915 Henry Mac Nair FINDING-MAP OF ROUTES AND DISTRICT MAPS Nutr 's refer to pages. THE FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS §r NEW ENGLAND Historical and Descriptive By L. H. BAKER With Illustrations, Comprehensive Road Maps and Sky- Line Sketches New York HENRY MacNAIR 19 15 Copyright 191S by L. H. BAKER All rights reserved >.'- JUN I 1915 ©C1.A406076 KELLOGG N. Y. PREFACE THE purpose of this book is to add to the pleasure of automobile touring in New England by supplying, in concise form, information in re- gard to such points of interest as are met with on some of the principal highways of the region. It is not intended primarily as a path-finder, as it keeps for the most part to main lines of travel, but rather aims to answer the numerous questions which con- stantly occur to the tourist as to the significance of monuments and tablets, the identity of prominent buildings, the precise location of historical points, etc. If one thing beyond another has been "borne in" upon the writer in the preparation of the work, it is a revelation of the number of errors which creep into print. While many of these errors — quotations which do not appear in the originals from which they are quoted; pictures which do not show the places supposed to be pictured; mistaken references; con- flicting dates; erroneous directions as to precise lo- cations; history made out of legends and a perversion of historical facts — have been found and adjusted, it seems almost too much to expect that other mis- takes — and perhaps those of even greater import — have not been retained or introduced. Out of this experience the writer is moved to preface his work with the words used by Cotton Mather in closing his Magnalia : "Reader, Cartegena was of the mind that unto those three things which the ancients held impossible, there should be added this fourth, to find a book Ijrinted without erratas. It seems the hands of Briareus and the eyes of Argus will not prevent them." CONTENTS* I The Main Entrance to New England from the South 13 (i) New York to New Haven 14-26 (2) New Haven to Springfield 27-34 II The Connecticut Valley and Sunapee Lake.. 35 Springfield, Mass., to Plymouth, N. H. 36-47 III Through the Heart of the Old Bay State. 50 Springfield to Boston 51-61 IV The Shore Line 62 New Haven to New London, Conn. . . . 63-68 V Through the Narragansett Country to Boston 69 (i) New London to Boston via New- port and Taunton 70-85 (2) Fall River to Boston via Ply- mouth 86-99 VI From Massachusetts Bay to the White Hills 100 (i) Boston to Plymouth, N. H., via Concord 102-115 (2) Boston to North Conway via Portsmouth 1 16-133 VII Through Lower Maine 134 Portsmouth to Portland and North Conway i3S-i43 VIII Among the Mountains 147 (i) Plymouth to North Conway. . . 148-157 (2) North Conway to Plymouth. .. 159-167 IX The Return from the Hills 169 (i) North Conway to Portland and Portsmouth 170-178 *For quick reference in locating the various routes and maps shown in this volume use Finding-Chart, inside front cover. 5 6 CONTENTS— Continued (2) North Conway to Boston via Portsmouth 179-200 (3) Plymouth to Boston via Con- cord 201-216 X Down the Connecticut 217 Plymouth, N. H., to Springfield, Mass 218-228 XI Toward the Berkshires 229 Boston to Greenfield v^a Concord, Mass 230-242 XII Over the Mohawk Trail 243 Greenfield to Springfield via Williams- town 244-254 XIII The Great Post Road ' 255 (i) Boston to Springfield 256-263 (2) vSpringfield to New Haven 265-271 XIV The Berkshires Again 274 Springfield to Greenfield via Williams- town 275-284 XV In Northern Massachusetts 285 Greenfield to Boston 286-297 XVI Through the Old Colony and Beyond . . 298 (i) Boston to Fall River via Ply- mouth 299-309 ( 2 ) B oston to New London, Conn ..31 0-3 2 2 XVII Along the Sound 323 (i) New London to New Haven. . .324-328 (2) New Haven to New York 329-337 XVIII Western Entrances to New England. .. . 338 (i) New York to Poughkeepsie and the Berkshires 339~"34i (2) Albany to the Berkshires and Burlington 342-344 (3) Lake Champlain to the White Mountains 345-346 Recommended Hotels with rates, capacity, amusements, etc 9-1 1 Index of places mentioned in the text 347^352 ILLUSTRATIONS Page Pomtoosuc Lake, in the Berkshires 13 Centre Church, New Haven Green 26 PhilHps Hall, Yale University Campus 28 Lake Sunapee and the Granliden 34 A New England Landscape 50 An old Oak at the ' ' Wayside Inn " 57 The Beach and The Mathewson, Narragansett Pier 68 Old Stone Mill at Newport, R. 1 77 One of Boston's large hotels, The Copley Plaza. . 85 Plymouth Rock Monument 90 Old Major John Bradford House 93 On a Stern and Rock-bound Coast 99 Golf in the Mountains loi Sky-line Sketch of the Sandwich Range. 114 and 203 The Rocky Shore at Marblehead 117 Old Witch or Roger Williams House 119 Tristam Coffin, " Whittier's Schoolmaster" House 128 Looking North from Ossipee (Sky-line). .131 and 181 From the Intervale, North Conway (Sky-line).. . 133 The Wentworth at New Castle, N. H 134 Mounts Washington and Madison from the Glen Road 143 Crawford Notch from Elephant's Head 146 The Mount Washington at Bretton Woods 147 Franconia Mountains from Campton Hills 1 48 and 166 Franconia Notch and Echo Lake from Artist's Bluff 151 Presidential Range from Bretton Woods. .153 and 161 Site of the Willey House in 1837 155 Snowcapped peaks of the Presidential Range. ... 158 Crawford House and the Notch in 1837 162 Ascent of Mount Willard by Burro 167 Dixville Notch and Lake Gloriette 168 Crossing a Branch of Pine River at Ossipee 178 Old Chain Bridge at Newburyport 189 7 8 ILLUSTRATIONS— Continued Page The Farragiit at Rye Beach 216 One of New Hampshire's Giant Elms 217 The Connecticut River and Mount Holyoke. . . . 228 The Aspinwall at Lenox, Mass 229 "Minute-Man " statue of Capt. John Parker .... 232 Grace Hall, Williams College 246 Longfellow House, ' ' The Old Clock on the Stairs " 250 The Great Post Road 255 Lake Champlain, the Adirondacks in the distance. 264 Lake Onota at Pittsfield, Mass 271 The Greylock at Williamstown 274 The Peaceful Valley of the Hoosic 276 Lake Sunapee from the Granliden 284 A distant view of the Berkshire Hills :... 285 Old Orchard House and School of Philosophy. . . 291 Scene of the Concord Fight 295 Home of Harvard's Presidents for 120 years. ... 297 The Shore and The Griswold, Eastern Point, Conn 322 West Rock at New Haven, Conn 323 LIST OF MAPS See also Finding- Chart, inside front cover Exits from New York City toward New England. 1 2 Road Map of the New Haven District 16-17 Lower Metropolitan Boston 48-49 Narrangansett Bay District 80-81 Quincy, the home of two Presidents 97~3oi Upper Metropolitan Boston 11 2-1 13 Salem and her Landmarks 120-195 Heart of the White Mountains 144-145 Portland to Naples via Poland Spring 172 The Lower Maine Coast 174 The New Hampshire Coast 186 Lake Winnepesaukee District 208-209 Upper Berkshire Region 240-241 Lower Berkshire Region ' 272-273 SELECT HOTELS AND INNS ON OR NEAR THE ROUTES DESCRIBED A dagger (f) in the text indicates that hotel may be found in this list Minimum prices are invariably given Any criticisms of the service or charges at places mentioned, or suggestion for additions to this list will be welcomed by the publisher Albany. N. Y., The Ten Eyck E. 300. $2; bath, $3- Garage, Grill Alton Bay, N. H., Oakbirch Inn. A. 35. l3-50-$6; Bath, $s->W June 20-Oct. I. Garage, Tennis Antrim, N. H., Greystone Lodge A. 6s, I3; bath, ^4. June i-Oct. Augusta, Me., Augusta House A. 150, $3; 75 bath, $4. Garage Beach Bluff, Mass., Hotel Preston A. 200, $5; bath, $6. Garage, Golf June 19-Sept. 10. Tennis, Bathing Belgrade Lakes, Me., The Belgrade A. 225. S3; bath, $4. May 25-Oct. I. Golf, Tennis, Fishing Bennington, Vt., Walloomsac Inn A. 100, $3 June-Nov. Golf, Tennis, Garage nr. Bethel, Me., Bethel Inn A. 30, $3; bath, $4. Bethlehem, N. H., The Sinclair A. 225, $3-50; bath, $6. Garage June 2i-0ct. 5. Golf, Tennis The Maplewood A. 400, $5; bath, $6 July i-Oct. I. Golf, Tennis Boston, Mass., Copley Plaza. Copley sq. E. 500, all bath — single. $3-$S; double. $5-18. Grill, Garage nr. The Puritan, 390 Commonwealth E. 200, $2; sitting room, bedroom, bath, $4. Grill, Roof-garden Hotel Touraine, Boylston & Tre- mont. E. 150, 12.50; bath, $4 The Bellevue, 17 Beacon st. E. 250, $2; bath, $3.50. Grill • Hotel Essex, Atlantic ave. & Essex E. 350, $1.50; bath, $2.50 Hotel Lennox, Exeter and Boylston E. 250, $2; bath, $3. Hotel Somerset, Commonwealth ave. E. 300,_$2.5o; bath $3 Westminster, Copley sq. E. 250, Si. so; bath, $3. Roof-g'd'n. Vendome, Commonwealth & Dart- mouth A. 200, $5, all bath, E. in summer Commonwealth, opp. State House E. 214. $1; bath. Si. so American Rathskeller Washington & Hanover sts. Brandon, Vt.. Brandon Inn A. 100, S3-50; bath, $4-00. Gar. Bretton Woods, N. H., The Mount Washington. July 8-Oct. 15 A. 550, S7; bath, $S Garage, Golf, Tennis The Mount Pleasant. June i6-0ct. i A. 27s, $6; bath, $7- Golf, Tennis Bridgeport Conn., The Stratfield E. 275, |i; bath. Si. 50 Briarcliff Manor, N. Y., Briarcliff Lodge. A. 200, apply. May 8-Nov. Garage, Golf, Tennis Bronxville, N. Y., The Gramatan A. 260, S4; bath, $5. Grill, Garage, Golf, Tennis Brookline, Mass., The Beaconsfield A. 175. all bath, Ss- Garage, Tennis Brunswick, Me., Hotel Eagle A. 60, 52. 50; bath, $3 Burlington, Vt., Hotel Vermont A. 200, S4; bath, $5. Roof-garden Van Ness House A. 125. $4; bath, $5 June i-Oct. 15. Roof-garden, Grill Chatham, Mass., The Mattaquason A. 84, S4. June 26-Sept. 8. Golf, Tennis, Bathing Claremont, N. H., Hotel Moody A. 100, $3; bath, S3-50. Golf, Tennis, Garage nr. Concord, Mass., Colonial Inn A. 40. S2,5o; bath, $3-50. Garage nr.. Grill. Tennis Concord. N. H.. Eagle Hotel A. 100, S3-S0; bath, $5. Garage nr. Crawford Notch, N. H., Crawford House A. 300, S4-50; bath $6 June 22-Oct. 4. Garage, Golf, Ten- nis, Burro Mountain Climbing Danbury. Conn.. The Green E. 150, Si; bath. Si. 50. Grill, Garage nr. Grill, Golf Danville, Vt., Thurber's A. 20, $2 Dixville Notch, N. H., The Balsams, A. 125, $5; bath, S9. Golf, Tennis. All conveniences. June 26-Oct. 11. Fabyan's Fabyan House A. 300, S4.S0; bath, S6. June is-Oct.i Fairhaven, Mass., Tabitha Inn A. SO. $4; bath, $5. May is-Oct. 15 Fairlee, Vt., Kaulin (family) A. 35. $3; bath, S3.50-S5 June 24-Sept. 15. Golf, Tennis Falmouth, Mass., The Sippewisset A. 150, $5. June lO-Sept. Golf, Boating, Fishing, Bathing Terrace Gables, May 28-Sept. A. 100, S3S0; bath SS- Flume House, N. H., Flume House E. 100. $2; bath. S2.50 May 30-Oct. 20 Gardner. Mass., Windsor Hotel A. 60, $3; E. $1.50 10 LIST OF HOTELS— Continued Gloucester, Mass., The Moorland (Bass Rocks) June 12-Sept. 25 A. 250. $3-50 Gorham, N. H., Mt. Madison Ho. A. 100, $3; bath, $4. Garage, Tennis, Mountain Climbing Grand Isle, Vt.. Island Villa Great Barrington, Mass. Berkshire Inn. May 26-Nov. i A. 130, I4; bath, $s-$6 Golf. Tennis, Garage nr. Greenfield, Mass.. The Weldon Hotel A. 125, $3-$S; E. $i-$3. Grill, Garage, Golf, Tennis Greenwich, Conn., The Edgewood A. 250, $5; bath, $6 May 29-Oct. Golf, Tennis Groton, Conn., The Griswold (Eastern Point). A. 500, Is, bath I7 June i6-Sept. 15. Garage, i8-h. Golf, Bathing, Boating, Fishing Hanover, N. H., The Hanover Inn A. 75. $3; bath, $4 Harrison, Me., Summit Springs Hotel A. 60, $2. June 30-Sept. 10. Golf. Tennis, Fishing Hartford, Conn., Allyn House E. ISO, I1.50; bath, $2.50. Grill Hotel Bond and Annex E. 300, $i-$3; bath, $2-$3. Grill Heublein Hotel E. 100, I1.50; bath, $2.50. Grill Holderness, N. H., Asquam House A. 150, $3] bath, I4 Intervale, N. H., Intervale House A. ISO, $3-So; bath, $5 June 20-Oct. 15. Garage, Golf Ipswich, Mass., Agawam House A. so, $2.50; bath, 13-50. Garage, Grill, Boating Jackson, N. H., Wentworth Hall A. 250, $5; bath, 16 June 2S-0ct. i Jefferson, N. H., The Waumbek A. 500, $5; bath, I7 June 20-Sept. 20. Golf, Tennis Keene, N. H., Cheshire House A. 200, $3; bath, $3-50. Garage nr. Kennebunkport, Me., Breakwater Court. A. 250, $s; bath, $7. Kineo, Me., New Mt. Kineo House A. 600, I4; bath, $6 June 26-Sept. 27. Golf, Tennis, Boating, Fishing Lake Dunmore, Vt., Lake Dunmore Hotel. June is-Sept. 15 A. 100, S3; bath, $4 Lake Sunapee, N. H., The Granliden A. 200, $5; bath, $6. June i6-0ct. i Garage, Golf, Tennis, Boating, Fishing Lakeville, Conn., Wononsco Hou.se A. 75. 12.50; bath, $300. Boating, Fishing, Ciarage, GoU, Tennis Lee, Mass., Greenock Inn A. 100, I2.50; bath, $3.50. Garage, Golf, Tennis Lenox, Mass., The Aspinwall A. 300, $5; bath, $6 June 19-Oct. 20. Grill, Garage, 3 Golf Courses, Tennis Curtis Hotel. Apr. 24-Nov. i A. ISO, $4\ bath, $6. Garage, Golf, Tennis Lyme, Conn., Old Lyme Inn A, 45. $2.50 May i-Nov. i. Tennis, Boating Magnolia, Mass., The Oceanside A. 515, $5; bath, $6 June 15-Sept. 20. Bathing-Boating Manchester, Vt., The Equinox A. 250, $5; bath, $6 June 15-Oct. 15. Ekwanok Golf Club, Tennis, Fishing MacNaughton's A. 25, $4. May i-Nov. i Mansfield, Mass., The Tavern A._ so, $4; bath. Is Marion, Mass., The Sippican A. 100, I4; bath. Is. June-Sept. Garage, Golf, Tennis, Boating Millbrook, N. Y., Millbrook Inn A. 40, I4; bath, 16. Mayi2-Nov. i Garage, Golf, Tennis Montreal, Can., The Windsor Hotel E. 600, I2; bath, I3. Garage, Grill Narragansett Pier, R. I., The Ma- thewson. June 22-Sept. 15 A. 290, I4; bath, 16. Grill, Garage, Golf, Tennis, Boating, Bathing The Imperial. June 15-Sept. 25 A. 200, $5; bath, 16. Garage, Golf, Tennis The Gladstone. June-Sept. A. 250, I4; bath, 16. Grill, Garage, Golf, Tennis Natick, Mass., Old Natick Inn A. 18, I3; bath, I4; double, I7 Newburyport, Mass., The Wolfe Tavern. Grill, (jarage. Boating E. 50, |i; bath, I2; double, I3 Newcastle, N. H., The Wentworth A. 500, Is; bath, 16 June 26-Sept. 15. Golf, Tennis, Boating, Hot and Cold Sea- Water Baths New Haven, Conn., Hotel Taft E. 350, I1.50; bath, I2.50. Grill New London, Conn, (see also Groton) The Mohican E. 300, I1.50; bath, I2.50 Newport, N. H., Newport House A. 50, I3; bath. I3.50. Grill Newport, R. I., New Cliffs Hotel A. 120, I4; bath. Is. June-Sept. Muenchener-King Cottages A. 100, I4; bath. Is Northampton, Mass., Draper Hotel E. 100, li; bath, I2. Grill, Garage North Conway, N. H., The Kearsarge A. 100, I3.S0; bath, I5-I6 June 2S-Sept. 30. Garage, Golf, Tennis, Fishing, Dancing Northfield,Mass.,TheNorthfield A.iio, I3; bath, I4 Garage, Golf, Tennis LIST OF HOTELS— Continued 11 North Woodstock, N. H., Deer Park Hotel. June i-Oot. lo A. 20o.»$4: bath. $5 Ogunquit, Me., Sparhawk Hall A. 250, $5; bath, $7 Pittsfield, Mass., The Maplewood A. 17s. S4; bath, $6. May 27-Nov. i Golf, Tennis at Country Club The Wendell E. 250, $1.50; bath, $2.50 Plymouth, Mass., Hotel Pilgrim E. 85. $2; bath, double, $5 June is-Sept. 15. Gar., Golf, Tennis Poland Spring, Me., Poland Spring House. Jan. i-Oct. 15 A. 5S0, $6; bath, I7. Golf, Tennis Mansion House A. 150, $4; bath, $5 Portland, Me., The Lafayette A. 200, $4; bath, $5-$6. Garage nr. Portsmouth, N. H. (see Newcastle), Rockingham Hotel A. no, $4; bath. $5. Grill, Golf Profile House, N. H., Profile House and Cottages. July i-Oct. i A. SCO, $6; bath, I7. Garage, Boat- ing, Fishing, Golf, Tennis Prout's Neck, Me., The Checkley A. 200, $3; bath, $4.50 June 20-Sept. 20. Golf, Tennis, Bathing. Boating Rangeley, Me., Rangeley Lake House. June i-Oct. i A. 200, $5; bath, $6. Garage nr. Golf, Tennis, Fishing Ripton. Vt., Bread Loaf Inn A. ISC $.3-$6. June i6-0ct. 20 Rockport, Ma.ss., Turk's Head Inn A. 100, $3.50; bath, $5 June 23-Sept. 10. Golf, Tennis, Boating. Bathing Rockland, Me.. The Sam-0-Set A. 200. $5; bath, $12 up double June 17-Sept. 9. Garage, Golf. Tennis, Boating, Bathing Rutland, Vt., The Berwick A. 100, $1; bath, $1.50; E. $3 Rye Beach, N. H., Farragut House A. 200, $6; bath. $7. June 17-Sept. 8 Garage, Golf, Bathing, Boating Saybrook, Conn., Fenwick Hall A. 150, $3; bath, $5. June 21-Sept.iS Shippan Point, Conn., Hotel Manor A. 67, $3. 50; bath, $5 June 15-Sept. 15. Garage, Golf, Tennis, Boating, Bathing Short Beach, Conn., The Arrowhead A. 23, $2.50. Golf, Tennis, Boat- ing, Bathing Soo Nipi Park Lodge. June 22-Sept.20, A. 100, $4; bath, $5 Garage, Golf, Tennis, Boating Sound Beach, Conn., Ye Olde Green- wich Inn. May 30-Oct. i. A. 123, $4; double, with bath, |io Garage, Golf, Tennis, Boating, Southboro, Mass., SouthVioro Arms A. 12. S6: bath, dnuble, E. $4 Apr. 15-Dec. 10. Dinner |i.so South Williamstown, Idlewild Inn A. TOO, $3-50; bath, $5 May 28-Nov. I Springfield, Mass., The Kimball E. 350, I1.50; bath, I2. Grill The Worthy E. 250. $1.50; bath, $2. Grill Springfield, Vt., The Adnabrown A. 40, $2. 50; bath, $3-50. Tennis Stamford, Conn., The Davenport E. 100, $1; bath. I1.50 Stockbridge, Mass., Red Lion Inn A. 200, apply. Apr. 15-Dec. i Sudbury, Mass., Longfellow's Way- side Inn. A. 15, $3.50. Garage. Special Dinners Sudbury, Vt., Hyde Manor A. 100, $4 June i-Oct. I. Garage, Tennis Swampscott. Mass.. New Ocean House. June 21-Sept. 10. A. 27s. $5; bath, $7- Garage. Golf, Tennis, Boating, Bathing Templeton, Mass., Templeton Inn A. 108, I3; bath, $4 May 28-Oct. 10. Garage, Tennis Twin Mtn. House, Twin Mtn. Ho. June 28-Oct. I. A. ISO, $4; bath Is Walpole, N. H., Walpole Inn A. 30, I4; bath, $5. May 28-Nov. i Watch Hill, R. I., Ocean House A. 400, $5', bath, $6 June is-Sept. 15. Garage, Go'f, Tennis, Bathing, Fishing, Boating Watch Hill House A. 17s. $5; bath, double. $10 June 2-Sept. 15. Garage, Golf. Ten nis. Bathing, Boating The Colonial. A. 100, I4 Waterbury, Conn.. The Elton A. ISO. $3.50. E., Ii.so Waterville, Me.. Hotel Elmwood A. 80, $3; bath, $4. Garage, Golf Whitefield, N. H., Mountain View House. June is-Oct. 10 A. 150. $4; bath $5 White Plains, N. Y., Gedney Farms Hotel. A. 200, $4; bath. $6. Garage, Golf, Tennis White River Jet., Vt., White River Tavern. A. 40, $3; bath, $3-50 Garage, Golf. Tennis Williamstown, Mass., The Greylock A. 150, $4; bath. Is May I. -Nov. i. Grill, Garage, Golf, Tennis, Swimming Pool Winthrop, Mass., Cottage Park Hotel. A. 125, I3; bath 4 Woodstock, Vt., Woodstock Inn A. 90, Is; bath 16 Worcester, Mass., The Bancroft E. 300, I1.50; bath, I2. Grill, Golf, Tennis, Roof-garden York ClifTs, Me., Passaronaway Inn A. 150. I4.50; bath, 16 June 20-Sept. I. Golf, Tennis lO-i 5- Copyright, 1915, Henry MacNair Exits from New York I The Main Entrance to New England from the South* (1) New York to New Haven, 74.2 Miles This outlet from New York should furnish an auspicious beginning for a tour of the New England States. The face of the country is pleasant and the route runs sufficiently near the shore line to afford fre- quent views over Long Island Sound. The roads themselves are of the first grade through- out, and those which run through the cities will be found to compare most favorably with the streets of the cities which will be met with farther east. From New Rochelle, the route follows pretty closely the line of the old stage route between New York and Boston, which started about the time of the Revolution. *The entrance to New England from New York and Hudson River points to the Berkshires is briefly outlined in Chapter XVIII, pages 338-346. 13 14 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS (I) New York City to New Haven, Conn., 74.2 Miles Described in reverse direction on pages 329-37 See map, page 12 o. New York. Fifth avenue and Central Park at 59th street. Leaving The Plaza, with its bronze equestrian statue of General Sherman, the route runs northwest through the winding driveways of Central Park, passing to the left of the "Mall" and curving right at Webster's statue, shortly comes in sight of the reservoirs. 2.9 Turning sharply to the left at a poHce signal box the run continues up Seventh avenue and at 4.6 145th street, turns to the right and crosses the Harlem River. 5.2 At the subway kiosk, turn to the left on Mott avenue, continuirg almost straight ahead into the Grand boulevard or Concourse, one of the finest driveways in the metropolis. The statue on the left at this point is that of General Franz Siegel. 9.5 Turning to the right on Fordham road, the route enters Bronx Park and crosses Bronx River. Just beyond this turn on the Concourse is the "Pee Cottage," where the eccentric genius lived. Bronx Park contains besides the Zoological gardens which the route passes, the Botanical gardens and the old Lorillard mansion. We are now on Pelham parkway, which passes through the embryotic "Pelham Park," curving to the left and crossing Eastchester Bay. The route continues into the "Shore road" curving to the left at its end, into Echo avenue. MAIN ENTRANCE TO NEW ENGLAND 15 17.5 At the end of Echo avenue the route turns to the right at a hotel on the main street of fNew Rochelle. The business center of the city is at the left. Just after entering Main street on the left in a reverse fork of the roads, is a tablet "erected to indicate the Old Post Road, extending from New York to Boston, originally an Indian Trail, opened by royal commission in 1672. As the road to New England, it was known in Colonial days as the King's Highway. Over this road Paul Revere carried the news of the battle of Lexington. Its dust was hallowed by the tread of patriots' feet all through the war of the Revolution." This inscription does not say on what part of the Post Road Revere carried the news of Lexing- ton, but it was not at this end. Revere undoubtedly did pass over this portion of the road on many occasions, before the Revolution and after, but not with the first news of the opening of hostilities. This is a region of new houses, and such of the old landmarks as remain are rapidly giving place to residences of modern construction. The coun- try is rolling, the road passing with easy grades from one hill to another for many miles. 1 9. 1 Running through Larchmont which was named from a row of larch trees planted to screen one of the early mansions, the road passes over the shoul- der of Heathcote Hill (at the left), the scene of a Revolutionary engagement, but now covered with modern houses. J 6 To Pittsfield To Pittsfield To Hartford To Hartford 17 \''^'VG/ ^'MERIDEN^Rockf^ ^^"^^'^ Fall , Chesjnut I Durham Center. ^North Guilfor^t JjNorthJBrantord Giiilfor Halleck <.'lf'sl.l.Tli — if^achuii^ ^^^^ G ISLAND SOUND 1915 Henry Mac Ndir E NEW HAVEN DISTRICT 18 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS This section is intimately connected with the Hfe of James Fenimore Cooper, who married one of the daughters of Heathcote Hall and lived for some time in this vicinity. In the house which he built on a shoulder of the hill he began his literary career, and the scene of "The Spy" is laid in this vicinity. Nothing remains that is closely connected with his life here unless it be a little house in which he lived for a short time immediately after his marriage, and this, if standing, is so changed as to bear no resemblance to its original shape. 20. 2 Mamaroneck. At the entrance to this village, on the right, is the chimney of the Disbrow house which was erected in 1677, and in which Harvey Birch, the hero of Cooper's tale of ''The Spy", was supposed to have been secreted. This section was, during the greater part of the Revolution, common or neutral ground, and was frequently visited by portions of both the contend- ing armies. 22.5 Beyond Mamaroneck, on the right, with tall white columns, is the Jay mansion where John Jay, the statesman and jurist, spent his boyhood. The original house was one room deep and eighty feet long. 23.6 On the left, at the top of a hill are the large buildings and extensive grotmds of an Old Ladies' Home. 24.2 Rye. Near the center of the town, a little back from the road on the right, is Christ's (Epis- copal) Church. The original organization of this MAIN ENTRANCE TO NEW ENGLAND 19 church dates from 1695, and among its valued possessions are a silver chalice and chalice cover presented to the church by Queen Anne. James Fenimore Cooper attended this church during his residence in the vicinity. 24.5 A little beyond, as the route bears to the right at the flagpole (crossing the trolley Hne diagonally) is the Public Library of brick in Colonial style, and the Municipal Hall, which was a tavern as early as 1731, and entertained Washington, La- fayette, and other men of note. 26.1 Upon entering Porchester the route bears to the left and runs directly through the town. 27.2 Crossing Byram River which here forms the boundary between New York and Connecticut, the route enters New England. It is related that this stream received its name from an Indian village which was located on its banks and was called Buy rum village, on account of its chief trade. On the left (28.), at the top of a rise, is Edge wood Gate- way, entrance to the Edgewood Hotel. t Greenwich, Conn. The route does not pass through the business center, which extends down the hill at the right. On the ridge are attractive churches and residences. 29.2 On the left, as Greenwich avenue (main street) comes in, is the Presbyterian church and beyond is a large Congregational church with the Soldiers* monument before it. Across the road from this is the entrance to Millbank, once the estate of "Boss" Tweed. 29.5 It is said that the Congregational church is 20 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS erected on the highest land which occurs so near the sea at any point on the coast between Maine and Florida, except at Navesink Highlands. 29.8 A little further on, at the right, is the magnif- icent property of the Episcopal church and directly opposite, with cannon before it, is **Putnam Cot- tage" formerly the Knapp Tavern, maintained as a Putnam memorial and open to visitors at certain times. There seems to be a conflict of opinion as to whether this is the house where General Israel Putnam was stopping at the time of his famous ride down the cliffs. The room in which he was shaving when surprised by the British soldiers is shown, but not only is the authenticity of this part of the story doubted, but another house is said to have been his dwelling place at the time of the raid. There can be no doubt, however, that this is a fine old house with unusually large hinges to swing the Dutch (halved) front door and an ex- cellent full length (modern) painting of General Putnam. Just beyond this interesting house, on the brow of the cHif is the little Putnam Hill Park contain- ing a monument marking the spot "where on Feb. 26, 1779, Gen. Israel Putnam, cut off from his soldiers and pursued by British cavalry galloped down this rocky steep and escaped, daring to lead where not one of many hundred foes dared to follow." A modern flight of steps has been cut down the face of the cliff and the location of the old steps which were cut or built for the benefit of churchgoers, is not precisely known. It is not MAIN ENTRANCE TO NEW ENGLAND 21 generally considered to-day, however, that Putnam rode down the old steps, but that he descended by a cow-path which cut off the curves in the road which then ran along the top of the cliff and de- scended in a sort of S. The road has been filled at this point so that the present sheer descent is not much more than half what it was when Putnam took his ride. The Mianus River is crossed at the village of the same name and the road soon reaches 34.6 fStamford (Pop. 25,000). This is a busy city with large manufactories of locks, etc. The route does not pass through the business streets, but runs straight through the open square with the City Hall on the right, and follows the trolley line to Darien. 36.2 Crossing Noroton River, the route passes through the village of the same name. Here is located the Connecticut Soldiers' Home, which, however, is not in sight from the road. 39.1 At Darien the road passes under the railroad and continues on the main thoroughfare. On the site of the present, square-towered Congregational church stood a church where those attending service on July 22, 1781 were, with their pastor, taken prisoners by a party of tories. 42.4 Norwalk. At the entrance to this town on the right, is the Hospital. At the foot of the hill, on the left, is the 42.6 Armory and on the right a drinking fountain erected in memory of Nathan Hale. On one side are 22 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS inscribed the words ** The path of duty was the way to Glory." The bronze tablet on the other side was "given by the children of the town in loving memory of him whose last words were *I only regret that I have but one life to lose for my country.'" The route now follows the main trolley line with many curves and grades through the town, and continues with the line to Bridgeport. At the flagpole on the left is the library. 43. A little beyond on the left, as the route curves to the right, is the old Norwalk Hotel, which was an hostelry in the time of the Revolution and an important tavern in the days of the stage-coach. Here the road crosses Norwalk River and ascends a steep grade. 43.4 Part way up the hill, on the right, is the Town Hall, a red brick building which might well be either an old church or schoolhouse rather than what it really is. Descending a grade, the road crosses Saugatuck River into the village of 46.3 Westport. On the left, as a branch trolley line leaves the road, is the old stage tavern which was a relay house in coaching days. Over at the right is Green's Farms church, and on the left by the roadside, Birge's wells. Crossing a small river, the road enters the village of Southport. 50.3 On the right, just beyond a turnout of the trolley line and opposite the Pequot poultry farm, is a monument marking the place where the Pequot MAIN ENTRANCE TO NEW ENGLAND 23 War was ended, in 1637. The Indians having been nearly annihilated at their stronghold on the Mystic hills, east of New London, the remnant was pursued to this spot where it was overtaken and destroyed. 52.1 Fairfield. As the route turns to the right, near the station, the Memorial Library, is on the left. 52.3 At the next corner, on the left, is a stone set "By David Barlow the cidevant farmer, 1791"; "reset by H. J. Beers, July 4, 1855." In front of the Town Hall, on the right, is a boulder monument commemorating the founda- tion of the town in 1639 and its burning by the British, July 8, 1779. In this British attack, 218 buildings were destroyed, so that few, if any, of the houses of that day are now standing. Here in 1775 John Hancock, who was fleeing from British displeasure, was married to Dorothy Quincy, who came here from Boston for the purpose. At the extremity of the town the old Post Road leaves at the left to encircle the broad mouth of the Pequonnock River on which is located the city of t Bridgeport (Pop. 102,000). This place has no Colonial history of its own, having beeen created a town long after the Revolution. There is, how- ever, on the route one relic of ancient days in the shape of an old mile-post bearing the inscription XXM standing by the road on the right at the to corner of Brewster street, a little after the NH road enters the outskirts of the city. Beyond this on the right is the Protestant Orphan 24 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Asylum, and on the left the Burroughs Home for Widows. Bridgeport is one of the busiest cities in New England, being the seat of the manufacture of articles of almost every description including pianos, sewing machines, silk, toys, cartridges, cutlery, paper, typewriters, needles, valves, brass goods, chains, automobiles, etc. Besides this it is the home of Barnum^s Circus, the winter quarters of which are near at hand as the road passes under the railroad. 55. The route follows the left branch of ■ the trolley line to the center of the city. 55.7 Upon making a turn to the right, the house on the right with the figure of a sea-god before it, is one of the houses which P. T. Barnum occupied. 56.3 At a prominent cross street, St. John's Episcopal Church is on the left and a beautiful fountain, erected as a memorial to Nathaniel Wheeler, the father of the Wheeler & Wilson Sew- ing Machine, is on the right. 56.8 Continuing straight through the city on Fair- field avenue, the route crosses Main street (the Stratfield Hotel being one block to the left), passes beneath the railroad at the station, and crossing the Pequonnock River and an arm of the harbor, bears to the left through Connecticut avenue. Stratford is one of the old towns of Connecticut, having been settled in 1639, and is the type of many New England towns with its broad main streets shaded by rows of great elms. MAIN ENTRANCE TO NEW ENGLAND 25 60.3 The route turns to the left on Main street and (60.6) to the right with a branch trolley line. Crossing the Housatonic River, which has its source in the Berkshire Hills near Pittsfield, Mass., the route enters Milford. On the left is a flagpole and a boulder which is inscribed "Liberty, 1766." It has been said that "there is no fact or legend connecting the patriots with the rock" but that it was popu- larly known as "Hog Rock, " from the legend con- tained in the following ancient stanza which is given by Stephen Jenkins in "The Old Boston Post Road". " Once four young men upon ye rock Sate down at shuffle board one daye; When ye Deuill appearde in shape of a hogg, And frightened ym so they scampered awaye And left Olde Nick to finish ye playe." Milford furnished one of the many hiding places of the regicide judges of King Charles I. The Memorial bridge, erected to commemorate the 250th anniversary of the settlement of the town and located only a few steps off the main route, as it turns to the left, is unique and worthy of inspection. 65.2 The route turns to the left with the trolley line in the center of the town, and passing under the railroad bears to the right and follows the direct road to 72.6 t New Haven (Pop. 133,600). At the entrance to the city the road crosses West River bridge, which was the scene of an engagement in the Revolution. Here it bears to the left on Davenport avenue 26 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS and near the end of the avenue passes the hospital, on the right. 73.8 Opposite the hospital, the route turns to the left on York street and upon reaching Chapel street, turns to the right. This is the largest city in Connecticut and for- merly divided with Hartford the honors of the Capital. It is the seat of large manufactories of a great variety of products and is the home of Yale University which occupies the center of the city. The prin- cipal buildings of the college are on the left as the route passes through Chapel street. Opposite Vanderbilt Hall, on Chapel street, is the house which was built in 1789 by Roger Sherman, a signer of the Declaration of Indepen- dence and the first Mayor of New Haven. 74.2 On the left is the Green, at the center of the city, facing which is the skyscraping Hotel Taft. The map on pages 16-17, shows in detail the various routes into and out of New Haven. Continued to Springfield on next page. Continued to New London on page 62. Centre Church MAIN ENTRANCE TO NEW ENGLAND 27 (2) New Haven to Springfield, 63.6 Miles Described in reverse direction on page 265 A map of New Haven district is on pages 16-17 From New Haven to Springfield, little introduc- tion is necessary. If one is traveling north from New Haven this is the most approved way of going. The road is pleasant, but in a very different way from that over which we have come from New York. There are no frequent villas along the road as there were in the suburbs of the great city ; there are no views of the Sound or of the sea; but merely an excellent road through the country, at first in the flat bottom of a wide valley, then over rolling hills and finally on the elevated bank of the Connecticut River. After getting fairly out of New Haven, the route is well nigh unmistakable except in passing through the cities of Meriden and Hartford. 74.2 Leaving Chapel street the route runs north on Temple street, which bisects the historic Green. Here Benedict Arnold, who was a druggist and bookseller of the town, drew up his little company and demanded the keys of the powder house when the news of the battle of Lexington came. Here a patriotic band of Yale students was reviewed by Washington on his way to take command of the army at Cambridge. On the left are the three churches which give the street its name. Trinity, Centre and United. Centre church which was erected in 18 14, is built over a part of the old burying ground. Be- neath the church is a crypt in which stand 140 tombstones all bearing dates prior to 1779. MAIN ENTRANCE TO NEW ENGLAND 29 Behind the church are the original gravestone and a more modern monument to John Dixwell, one of the regicide judges of Charles I. The old stone bore the inscription, "J. D. Esq. Deceased March ye i8th in ye 82d year of his age i68f." On the back walls of the church are tablets to Theophilus Eaton, the first Governor of New Haven Colony and to Stephen Goodyear, the first Deputy Governor. United church at the corner of Elm street, was erected in 1815. From this point, on Elm street at the right of Temple is the Free Public Library and the Court House. At the left of Temple street are two Colonial houses. The first is the Pierpont house, erected in 1767, and now the home of Rev. Anson Phelps Stokes. The other house, of about the same age, is now the home of the Graduates' Club. Continuing on Temple street, beyond the Library is the Parish house of Centre church. In the house at the left on the second corner above (Grove street), lived Noah Webster. Turning to the right on Trumbull, or any parallel street the route reaches State street, on which it turns to to the left. At a small bridge over Mill River is the best view of East Rock, with its monument to the soldiers of three wars. Beneath the bridge which stood here in 1660 the regicides are said to have hidden as their pursuers crossed above. 30 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 76.5 A little beyond the car barns the route turns to the right with a branch trolley line over the railroad. 77. Crossing the Quinnipiac River and meadows the route enters upon a level run hardly broken for fifteen miles. Passing through the village of Montowese, the road soon reaches 82.6 North Haven. Here, on the right, is an old cemetery located, rather unusually, on what appears to be a part of the village green. On the plains beyond there was formerly a line of large Colonial houses at the left of the road. These have now disappeared save one, a brick structure, which bears the date 1759. The loca- tion of this old residence and of those which have gone makes it evident that this was one of the main roads in Colonial times, though the stage routes between New Haven and Hartford ran both far- ther toward the east and the west, the main turn- pike following the west side of the Quinnipiac. Ahead on the left the Hanging Hills of Meriden are now seen, rising to the elevation of 1,000 feet. 87.7 Upon reaching Wallingford the route does not pass through the business center of the town, this being located on the ridge at the right. 90.8 Continuing across "the plains" over what was a few years ago a road deep in sand, the route turns sharply beneath the railroad and joining the old Turnpike, passes through the village of Tracy (Yalesville station) which is on the outskirts of 94. t Meriden (Pop. 27,000). Entering the city on Cook avenue the route turns to the right at the MAIN ENTRANCE TO NEW ENGLAND 31 end of the avenue, on Main street, and bears to the left, before reaching the station, on Colony street. This is called "Silver City" on account of the great amount of silver-plated ware manufactured here. A little beyond the center of the city the Connect- icut Reform School is on the ridge at the left. 94.8 Do not turn to the right with the trolley line, but cross the railroad just beyond. On the right is Mt. Lamentation, about 1,000 feet high, which is said to have received its name from the wailing or lamentation of a party search- ing for one who had become lost on the mountain. At the left is seen the city of New Britain, about four miles distant. 100. Berlin. This was the home of the tin-peddler business. Tinware was manufactured here as early as 1740 and here, after the Revolution the Yankee peddlers obtained their stock which they carried throughout the Eastern states, at first on horseback and then in gaily painted carts. From Berlin the road follows a rolling turnpike to no. fHartford (Pop. 99,000). This is the capital city of Connecticut, and the home of many large insurance companies. Though situated forty miles above the mouth of the Connecticut River, it was formerly something of a port, with a goodly num- ber of vessels engaged in the West Indian trade. Upon entering the city the route passes the Hospital on the left. A little beyond this, opposite a church with a clock, a branch trolley line leaves to the right. 32 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS A short distance down this side street is the stone marking the site of the Charter Oak. When crossing the bridge over the Httle Park River, the Capitol, located in the attractive Bush- nell Park, is seen at the left. Immediately beyond, on the right is the City Hall, the Morgan Art Memorial and the adjoining Wadsworth Atheneum, which includes the Public Library. In front of these buildings is a statue of the patriot Nathan Hale. The Atheneum stands on the site of the home of Colonel Wadsworth, a trusted friend of Wash- ington. Here Washington met the French Com- mander Count de Rochambeau in 1781, and dis- cussed with him plans for the Yorktown campaign. Among Hartford's leading hotels are The Bond and AUyn House. 1 1 1.3 Turning to the right in the center of the city at the old State House, the route passes the post office and curves along the Connecticut River. 112. From the bridge over the Connecticut, erected by a corporation of several towns, the plant of the Colts Arms Manufacturing Company is seen down- stream. Up-stream the view extends to the hills near Springfield, and behind is the Keney Memorial Tower. 113. At East Hartford the route enters upon a remarkable series of village streets, such as is met with nowhere outside of New England. 1 1 7. 1 South Windsor. This was a depot for pris- oners in the Revolution. The lines of ancient elms were planted by British and Hessian captives under the direction of Lafayette. MAIN ENTRANCE TO NEW ENGLAND 33 1 18.5 East Windsor Hill. Near the old cemetery on the left was the birthplace of Jonathan Edwards. A stone to the memory of his father, Rev. Timothy Edwards, is in the cemetery. 119. A little beyond this, on the left, is a prominent white house with a Colonial doorway. This is the Grant house, an ancestral home of the family from which descended Ulysses S. Grant. iig.2 On the left are the old brick buildings which formerly housed the Connecticut (now Hartford) Theological Seminary. One of the buildings bears the inscription "Oraculum, University of Benev- olence." The road is lined by extensive tobacco farms. 124.8 Beyond Warehouse Point the road approaches the river near the railroad bridge, then ascends the ridge which it follows through Enfield and Longmeadow. 128.5 At Enfield is a broad view on each side of the ridge. The Shaker Village' Hes in the valley at the right and the extensive powder mills at Hazardville are on the right about two miles from the route. 132.2 Passing, on the left, Conchusett farm, the road enters Massachusetts at State Line Park. 134. Longmeadow. The bell in the church on the green has an unusual history. It was cast by Paul Revere in 18 10, was cracked in celebrating the close of the War of 18 12, and recast by Revere. This is probably the only bell in existence which was twice cast by the firm during the lifetime of Paul Revere, 34 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Richard Salter Storrs was for many years the pastor of this church. 134.2 At the end of the main village, on the left, with a brown mile-stone before it, is the Ely mansion, where lived Eleazer Williams, who is supposed to have been the lost Dauphin, Louis XVII of France, the son of Marie Antoinette. 136. At the end of Longmeadow street is a view of Springfield, with Mt. Tom and the Holyoke range beyond it, to the left of the sharp tower of the City Hall. Immediately at the right is Forest Park, a monument to President McKinley and the Barney mausoleum and residence. 137.8 Entering fSpringfield (Pop. 89,000) the route proceeds directly to the center of the city at Main and State streets. The route to Boston turns to the right on State street (page 51). The routes to Pittsfield and Greenfield keep straight ahead on Main street. (See page 275.) For the Kimball Hotel, turn right on Bridge street to Chestnut. Lake Sunapee and the Granliden II The Connecticut Valley and Sunapee Lake Springfield, Mass., to Plymouth, N. H., 169 Miles This route supphes to the tourist from New York a direct and in many respects an attractive way of reaching the White Mountains. It does not follow the hne of the railroad through the length of the Connecticut valley because it seems more desirable to enter the mountains by way of Franconia Notch than to encircle this delightful section and thus fail to see some of the best features of the region. At the same time this route takes advantage of one of the great longitudinal highways of the State of New Hampshire on which the grades are less frequent than on the river road above Brattleboro. The fact that the route also passes Sunapee Lake does not add greatly to its advantages unless the tourist is to spend some time in this vicinity, because, while Sunapee is a delight to those familiar with its shores, it does' not offer many views of itself to the passerby. In fact, the only way to really see the lake is to view it from a boat or a mountain. Beyond Sunapee there is little to commend the route except the fact that it leads to the most desir- able gateway of the mountains and that the distance across country to Bristol is not great. The Connecticut valley in Massachusetts contains much of historic interest, this having been the frontier in the time of King Philip's and the French and Indian wars, and for more than fifty years the scene of repeated attacks by the Indians. 35 36 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Springfield, Mass., to Plymouth, N. H., 169 Miles Shown in reverse direction on pages 218-228 0. Springfield. Proceeding up Main street with the group of Municipal buildings on the left, the route passes beneath the railroad near the station. 1. At the monument to Spanish War soldiers, we bear left, passing the stone Memorial church on the right. 1.7 Cross the Connecticut River. 1.9 Immediately beyond the bridge, the common at West Springfield is on the left. Here is a boulder monument marking the site of the Hessian camp in 1777. Turning sharply to the right, along the river, through a part of West Springfield, Mt. Tom, with its gilt-tipped paviHon, appears prominently at the left. 3.5 The Springfield Country Club is on the left. 4.4 Over at the right the manufacturing town of Chicopee is seen across the river. 6.3 Leaving the river road to avoid the center of the city of Holyoke, the route crosses beneath the railroad at Ingleside station and passes through the districts of Elmwood and Holyoke Highlands. tHolyoke (Pop. 57,500) is the seat of important manu- factories of paper, satin, cotton, etc., power for the opera- tion of which is furnished by the Connecticut River. The water is carried by canals in three levels with a total fall of 60 feet. A new hotel. The Nonotuck, will be opened dur- ing the Summer of 19 15. To visit Mt. Holyoke, which may be ascended by auto- mobile (10 per cent grades), keep along the river road to THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY 37 Holyoke, passing through the length of the city on Main street, cross the Connecticut to South Hadley Falls and proceed thence to South Hadley where Mt. Holyoke College is passed on the right. At South Hadley bear left, go through the pass "Thermopylae" where a shoulder of the mountain comes down to the river, and soon after turn to the right on the road to the summit. Although the elevation is not great, the view from this peak has often been called the finest in America. To rejoin the main route at Northampton, the best course is by way of Hadley, with its remarkable streets and elms, rather than by the picturesque Hockanum Ferry road. Passing, on the main route, through the High- lands, the road soon returns to the river, with its attractive scenery. 10.7 At the entrance to Mt. Tom Park, where cars are taken for the ascent of the peak, is Kenilworth Castle, of brownstone on the left. The view of the Holyoke Range from this point is particularly fine. Skirting the Mt. Tom Range, on the left, the road descends to the level of the river, passing 13. Smith's Ferry and the home of the Holyoke Canoe Club, on the right. 15.3 The Ox-Bow of the Connecticut, so prominent in the view from Mt. Holyoke, is passed at the left. 17.5 t Northampton (Pop. 19,500). Entering the city on Pleasant street, the post ofhce is on the left and the railroad station a short block at the right. The Draper Hotel is at 171 Main street. To visit Smith College {yi mile) turn to the left on Main street, and pass the municipal buildings on the left. The college is on the right at the top of a slight grade. 17.5 The through route proceeds directly across Main street, into King street, passing the Court 38 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS House on the left at the corner. Here also is a small boulder monument marking the site of the first church in Northampton. Just beyond, on the right, is the Y. M. C. A. A little beyond this, after passing the Roman Catholic school is a yellow brick house standing somewhat back from the street and bearing a tablet. This is the site of the home of Jonathan Edwards, the eminent divine of Colonial days who ministered to the church in Northampton from 1727 to 1750. The stump of the great Edwards elm which fell in 19 13 is seen on the grounds, near the street. As we proceed along King street, Round Hill is on the left. Here Jenny Lind spent her honey- moon in 1852. 19. Upon crossing a bridge over the railroad, the village of Hatfield is seen at the right. 20.5 Laurel Park, a Methodist camp-meeting ground is passed on the left. Here an attractive view ahead includes the Sugar Loaf mountains and Mt. Tobey, with the valley of the Connecticut between them. 26.5 Passing through a rich farming country which produces great quantities of tobacco, corn and onions, the village of Whateley is seen at the left. 28. Approaching South Deerfield, the Sugar Loaf mountains are on the right, the south peak having a house on the summit. On these mountains it is said King Philip had headquarters from which he directed the attacks of his warriors upon the valley settlements. THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY 39 29.5 In t South Deerfield, on the right, in an open triangle, is a monument marking the site of the battle of Bloody Brook in which Captain Lathrop and his band of eighty-four young men, "the flower of Essex," from the eastern shore of Mas- sachusetts, were ambushed and killed by the Indians in 1677. 30.4 From the overhead railroad crossing at the end of the village, Mt. Tom lies directly down the track. The Pocumtuck range of hills is on the right as the road passes through Mill Village (32.4) and approaches Old Deerfield, the scene of many Indian attacks between 1675 and 1709. 34. Deerfield. Many sites in the village are marked with tablets, and there are many old houses, particularly rich in Colonial doorways. The manufacture of fine basketry and hand- woven fabrics is carried on in several places. Near the center of the village, a road at the right leads to the nearby Memorial Hall which contains remarkable collections of Indian and Colonial relics. At the village green, on the left, is the Soldiers' monument and tablets marking the site of the ancient '^Indian House," the stout door of which, hacked by the tomahawks of the Indians is pre- served in Memorial Hall. By the roadside here, also, is a brownstone fountain-to-be marking the site of the old fort well. Upon leaving Deerfield, the elevation across the valley at the left is Arthur's Seat, around which 40 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS the Fitchburg Division railroad makes a long de- tour to the south on its way to Hoosac Tunnel. 36. At the entrance to f Greenfield (Pop. 10,400), the road crosses the Deerfield River, where it breaks through the hills to join the Connecticut, and turn- ing to the left, follows Green River to the railroad station. 37.3 Turning to the right under the tracks, the route ascends, passing the Soldiers' monument on the left, and crosses Main street. The Weldon Hotel is reached by a right turn on Main, and next left on High street. For the Mohawk Trail over Hoosac Mountain to Wil- liamstown see page 244. For the route to Boston see page 286. Leaving Greenfield by Federal street, the route passes Poet's Seat, a square stone tower on Rocky Hill at the right, and runs through a prosperous farming country to 43.9 Bernardston, where it turns to the right in the center of the village. 47.3 When descending a grade toward a prominent three-corners, where the route bears to the right, the grove known as Mt. Hermon Pines is seen over at the right. After bearing to the right at the three-corners, the first road at the right leads through this grove to Mt. Hermon, the location of the D. L. Moody School for boys. The buildings are open for inspection, and there is an excellent view over the valley of the Connecticut. The return to the main route is by a road nearer the river. 48.5 The road now crosses the Connecticut River and climbing a winding grade, enters THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY 41 49.3 fNorthfield. Northfield street, 200 feet wide and shaded by four rows of elms, is one of the best of the many dehghtful streets found in the old New England towns. The boulder monument on the right at the entrance to the street, marks the site of a large oak beneath which the first religious services in the town were held, 1673. 49.6 A little further up the street on the left, is a tablet marking the place of the first settlement of the town in 1672, and the site of an old fort. 49.9 On the right is the Belcher Memorial fountain. 50.3 Passing the Library, on the right, the road descends a slight grade and crosses a bridge into East Northfield. On the left just before reaching the bridge is a boulder marking the site of an early fort and over at the right, the Schell mansion "Greytowers" is seen. In the ledge in front of the church, on the right, is cut this inscription, "Here, July 23, 1748, Aaron Belding was killed and scalped by the Indians." 50.7 Over at the right is The Northfield, one of the few large temperance hotels in Massachusetts. 51.2 At the end of the village, where the view opens out over the Connecticut valley, on the left, at the beginning of a long descent, is the favorite "Sun- set Tree" of Dwight L. Moody, whose residence was the white house (the last on the street) almost directly opposite. Just beyond are the entrances to the grounds of Northfield Seminary, the Moody School for Girls, 42 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS some of the buildings of which are seen at the- right. 51.3 Part way down the hill at the right, is a mon- ument erected to Nathaniel Dickenson, killed and scalped by Indians at this spot, 1747. 52.3 The route now crosses the Massachusetts-New Hampshire State line. One monument is on the right and another in a field on the left. From this point the Connecticut River forms the line between New Hampshire and Vermont. The route here enters one of the three highways to the White Mountains, which the State of New Hampshire has chosen for improve- ment and upon which most of the work has already been completed. A feature of these highways which adds greatly to the convenience of the tourist is the marking of the road by a band of distinguishing color upon tele- phone poles, fence posts, etc. The blue bands on this route may be followed for sixty miles, to Newport. Just out of view up the river is the plant of the Connecticut River Power Company, whose high tension lines are frequently seen in this section. 57.3 Crossing the Ashuelot River, the route turns to the right into Hinsdale, N. H. The road to the left, up-grade, leads to Brattle- boro, Vt., seven and one-half miles. The route now leaves the Connecticut valley for that of the Ashuelot, and passes several manufac- tories of tissue paper. 60.3 Passing through the double village of Ashuelot, and continuing on the left-hand side of the river, the road reaches 63.3 Winchester. Upon crossing the railroad at the entrance to the village, one of the houses in THE SUNAPEE LAKE COUNTRY 43 the wooden block seen across the river, is the birth- place of Gen. Leonard Wood. Crossing the river the road immediately turns to the left in Winchester square. The brick church in the square is a memorial, erected on the site of the church in which the Universalist Creed was adopted in 1802. 65.3 Two miles beyond Winchester the road crosses the outlet of Forest Lake, a glimpse of which may be had at the right, and then skirts the base of the Ashuelot Mountains. 68.8 Passing through the village of Westport the route again crosses the Ashuelot. 70. West Swanzy. The route does not pass through the center of the village. This was the home of Denman Thompson (Josh Whitcomb) whose house was in the village about one-half mile from the through road. To visit the Thompson place, turn to the right through the covered bridge and again to the right at the first prom- inent corner. The house is then on the right with smooth paving before it. Denman Thompson's grave may be seen from the road in the cemetery at the left near the house. On the right as the road approaches Keene, are excellent views of Mt. Monadnock. 76.8 Turning to the right across the river the route enters 76.3 t Keene (Pop. 10,000; elevation 500 feet). As the road turns to the left into Main street the State Normal School is on the right. Nearly opposite the entrance into Main street is the road 44 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS from Keene to the region about Mt. Monadnock and thence to Boston. Keene is the commercial center of southwestern New Hampshire. The route passes through the center of the city, crossing the railroad at the station and bearing sHghtly to the right at Central square. Facing the square is the Cheshire House. 76.8 On the right just beyond the square is the high school. 77.3 On the left, at an open triangle is the county jail. For six miles the road now winds through a wooded country with a gradual ascent to the elevation of 1,000 feet. 84.2 Part way down a long and rather steep descent, on the right, is a mica mine and near the foot of the grade (84.7) the road again meets the Ashuelot River which it crosses on a stone arch. The glimpse of the stream at the left is particularly attractive and here a few rods from the road down the river, is a large boulder known as the DeviPs Chair. 85.4 At Gilsum the road turns sharply to the right and continues along the Ashuelot, now hardly more than a rushing trout brook. The balsam fir is plentiful throughout this section, and may be readily distinguished among the other trees by its sharp spire-like tops. 92.3 Bearing to the left across a pond the road passes through the village of Marlow. THE SUNAPEE LAKE COUNTRY 45 95.7 On the right is Stone Pond. Between this point and Trout Pond, a mile beyond, is the height of land on this portion of the route. Stone Pond feeds the Ashuelot River while the waters of Trout Pond flow north into the Sugar River and thence into the Connecticut at a point some fifty miles north of the mouth of the Ashuelot. 98.6 In a swamp on the left are many tamarack trees. 99. The Lempster Mountains, ranging from 1,800 to 2,000 feet in height appear on the right, and are prominently seen for the next five miles. 1 01. Passing through the hamlet of East Lempster, where the elevation is about 1,200 feet, the road descends along the water courses leading into the south branch of the Sugar River. 103. The first glimpse is obtained ahead at the right, of the Sunapee Mountains, which rise from the southern extremity of Sunapee Lake. 107.5 After passing through Mill Village the Croy- don Mountains, which have an elevation of about 3,000 feet, are seen ahead on the left. Crossing Sugar River the road enters 112. t Newport (Pop. 4,000; elevation 850 feet). At this point the route leaves the State highway with its blue guides and at the center of the town turns to the right by the Newport House. Fol- lowing the valley of the Sugar River, the road passes through the village of Guild and reaches 118. t Sunapee Harbor. The road hardly enters the village, however, bearing to the left on its outskirts, 46 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS and following the general trend of the shore of Sunapee Lake to its head at George's Mills. 1 19.3 The only general view of the lake which the route affords is that obtained from an elevation reached soon after passing the first road at the right leading to the Granliden. Sunapee Lake is eight miles in length and has an extreme width of two miles. Its elevation is 1,090 feet. 12 1.8 At George's Mills the head of the lake is reached. Upon ascending the grade beyond George's Mills, the road skirts the shores of Otter Pond. At the right is the road to Soo Nipi Park. Little Sunapee or Twin Lake, which lies at an elevation of 1,217 f^^t, is on the left. 126.4 Turning to the right, the route enters Main street 127. New London, and continues through the vil- lage, passing Colby Academy on the left. 127.2 Just beyond the Academy the route turns to the left up-grade. At the top of the hill, where the elevation is about 1,400 feet, is a broad view at the left overlooking Pleasant Pond, the hills of Wilmot and the mountains beyond. Descend- ing the hill, Mt. Kearsarge, with an elevation of 2,900 feet, is straight ahead. 128.7 Turning to the left at a four-corners, the road continues to descend and runs along the lower end of Pleasant Pond to Elkins (130). Turning to the right here, along the outlet of the pond, the road passes directly through THE SUNAPEE LAKE COUNTRY 47 132.3 Wilmot Flats to the village of Cilleyville. 134.2 Here the route turns sharply to the left, the road straight ahead leading to Franklin. At West Andover the route joins the line of the railroad between Franklin and White River Junc- tion and follows it through South Danbury to 1 4 1. 5 Danbury. Here the route turns to the right across the railroad, and upon crossing the outlet of Bog Pond at 143, Elmwood, turns to the left and follows the course of Smith's River. 150.2 Turning to the left, the route ascends over a shoulder of Round Top Mountain and descending, crosses Newfound River and enters 1 5 1. 7 Bristol. The route does not pass through the center of the town which is one-half mile at the right, but turns to the left and ascends the river. 152.5 Upon reaching Newfound Lake, the route turns sharply to the right around the foot of the lake and follows the general course of its shores for about six miles. Beyond the head of the lake, the road descends a long grade with one of the feeders of Baker River, 166.5 Turning sharply to the right at the end of the road the route soon ascends above the valley of Baker River and upon descending enters 169. fPlyinouth. Small park at the end of High street. For the trip through the White Mountains, see page 148. For the route to Boston see page 201. Continued on pages 112-113 48 To Providence To Taunton LOWEI LOPOLITAN BOSTON To Plymouth Ill Through the Heart of the Old Bay State Springfield to Boston, 95 Miles Described in reverse direction in Chapter XIII Before the first white settlers came to New England, an Indian trail through the wilderness ran between the intervales of the Connecticut River and the shores of Massachusetts Bay. This Indian trail was succeeded by the Bay Path of the colonists, which in turn gave place to the Great Post Road over which mails were carried first by post riders and then by the stages which transported passengers between Springfield and Boston for more than half a century. Upon the ad- vent of the railway this road for the first time in its history lost its character as a through route, but this has now been fully restored to it by the auto- mobile and the construction of the State Highway which follows not absolutely but in a general way, the course of the old path. Over this road have traveled many of the men whose names stand out in the history of the nation. Washington passed over it at least twice, and three or four of his successors in the office of President have followed in his footsteps in this respect. 50 THE HEART OF THE OLD BAY STATE 51 Springfield to Boston, 95 Miles Described in reverse direction on pages 256-264 o. Springfield. Leaving the corner of Main and State streets, the route ascends the grade on State street, passing on the left, the statue of Deacon Chapin, an early settler, whom Saint-Gaudens has taken to typify "The Puritan." Directly beyond is the Library and Art Museum. On the right is the Church of the Unity and High SchooL Again on the left is the Cathedral and the United States Arsenal, the home of the Springfield rifle, and where most of the small arms used by the North in the Civil War were manufactured. Immediately beyond, on the left, is Benton Park on which stands the Wait Guide Post or Boston Stone, erected in 1763 by a Mr. Wait of Brookfield, who lost his way here in a snowstorm and set up the stone as a guide for future travelers. Here also is a boulder monument commemorating the closing scenes of Shay^s Rebellion, which were enacted on this spot in 1787. 1.4 Keeping to the left at an open triangle the route enters Boston Road and passes a large motor- cycle factory on the right. 3. At St. Michael's cemetery the route, leaving the trolley line, bears to the right, and crosses Springfield Plains. At the left is a ghmpse of Mt. Tom and the Holyoke range, and on the right are the Wilbraham Mountains. r>2 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 4.9 On the left is Five-mile Pond, so named on account of its distance from Springfield. 9.2 Passing Nine-mile Pond, on the right, the route enters North Wilbraham, crosses beneath the rail- road and skirts a quiet stretch of the Chicopee. Upon approaching Palmer, the conical peak of Mt. Dumpling is seen ahead on the left. 13.2 Under a large elm on the right is a tablet stat- ing that Washington twice passed beneath the tree, and in 1775, when on his way to take command of the Continental army at Cambridge, stopped here to address the citizens who had come to meet him. Upon entering Palmer the State Epileptic Hospital at Monson, is seen at the right on the slopes of Chicopee Mountain. 15.2 Palmer is at the junction of the Boston & Albany and the Vermont Central (New London & Northern) Railroads. At the center of the town the route turns squarely to the left and then to the right on the state road. 16.7 Passing under the railroad in two dangerous crossings, the road ascends the picturesque valley of the Quaboag River. The valley opening at the right extends into Brimfield and thence to Sturbridge and Webster. This is the route of the Southern New England Railroad, which, making a long loop, crosses the valley of the Quaboag and skirts the Brimfield hills. About two miles at the right, but hidden by the intervening hills, rises Steerage Rock, which is said to be a point from which the Indians laid their courses through the wilderness. THE HEART OF THE OLD BAY STATE 53 2 1. Over at the right is West Brimfield station 24. At West Warren begins the trolley line which the route follows to Worcester. Passing through this village and Warren, both small manufacturing towns, the road reaches 30.2 West Brookfield. On the left at the entrance to the town is Wickaboag Lake. On the right in the center of the village is the Old Tavern which, built in 1760, has sheltered Washington, Lafayette, John Adams and other notables. On the green is an old mile-stone ** Boston 63 miles" and nearly across the street as it curves to the right (No. 42 South Main street), is the house formerly occupied by Prof. Austin Phelps, the father of Elizabeth Stuart Phelps Ward. The road now skirts Foster's Hill, the site of the first settlement of Brookfield. On this hill are several tablets marking scenes in King Philip's war and the rock where Whitfield preached in 1741. ;^^. As the road ascends Brookfield Hill, on the right is ** Brookfield Farmhouse" with a remarkably fine Colonial doorway and windows. Following the trolley line through Brookfield the route soon passes through the village of 35.8 East Brookfield where Lake Lashaway, or Furnace Pond, is on the left. 38.5 On the left are three monuments pertaining to the Bemis family which settled here in 1721, one of which marks the site of the first frame house erected in Spencer. 39.5 Spencer (Pop. 6,700) is the seat of a large manufactory of boots and shoes. In front of the 54 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Town Hall, on the left, is a monument to Elias Howe, an inventor of the sewing machine, and his brothers who were also inventors of note. There is a stiff up-grade through Spencer as the road here reaches the top of the ridge which crosses central Massachusetts, with an elevation of 1,200 feet. In finding its way across this ridge, the railroad makes a detour to the south so that the distance by rail between East Brookfield and Worcester is five miles longer than that by the road. The highest elevation reached by our route is about 1,050 feet. This ridge is naturally a prominent watershed, and some of the streams in this vicinity find their way into Narragansett Bay, some into the Thames River, and some into the Connecti- cut. 43.5 On the right lived Lewis Allen a tory who, at his request, was buried in his garden near the road "so that he might hear the stage go by with the news from Boston." 44.5 Leicester. Leicester Academy, on the left, was established in 1784. On the common is a boulder monument to the minute men who marched from this point in 1775. The last house on the left at the brow of the hill, marked as the site of the first house in Leicester, was the residence of Samuel May, a noted anti- slavery worker. 46.3 Descending through Cherry Valley, the scene in 1876 of a disaster caused by the breaking of a dam, the route reaches THE HEART OF THE OLD BAY STATE 55 48.6 t Worcester (Pop. 146,000). Entering the city on Main street the route passes Clark University on the left. 49.2 On a hill at the left may be seen the castle-like buildings formerly occupied by Oread Seminary, an important school for girls. The leading hotel of Worcester is The Bancroft. Near the center of the city, on the right, is the Post Office, of marble with a square tower. 50.5 A little beyond this is City Hall, around which the route turns to the right. At the side of the building is a statue of Senator George F. Hoar, and in the park at the rear, a monument over the remains of Col. Timothy Bigelow and other Revolutionary soldiers and the Soldiers' monument "Victory." 50.9 Turning to the left opposite the new Union station, the square granite tower of the old station is on the right. At the top of the hill as the route turns to the right is the State Asylum for the Insane. 53. The road now crosses Lake Quinsigamond at the "White City" amusement resort. A little beyond, the Boston & Worcester trolley line leaves to the right. The road straight ahead is said to be the first turnpike for which a charter was granted in Massachusetts. 55.1 From the brow of Shrewsbury Hill is an ex- cellent view at the left extending from Worcester to Mt. Wachusett (with a house on its summit). The large estate on the left is that of C. H. Hut chins, president of the Crompton-Knowles Loom Works. 56 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 56.1 Shrewsbury. At the center of the town is the common with a brick schoolhouse used since 1830 at its upper end and a small boulder mon- ument, at the church, to 128 minute-men who marched from here at the Lexington alarm. In the church here, John B. Gough delivered his first temperance lecture. 56.8 On the right is a tablet marking the place where "Luther Goddard, a noted clock maker, established the first, factory for the making of American watches, about 1790." At the factory across the road leather has been continuously made since 1803. 57.1 Near the bottom of the hill, on the right, standing a little above the road, is the home of Gen. Artemus Ward who had command of the troops at Cambridge before the arrival of General Washington. Opposite the house is an old mile-stone. 57.4 A little beyond this, in the forks of the road stands a house once kept as a tavern by Levi Pease, "The father of the Turnpike, " who estab- lished a stage line between Boston and Hartford in 1783, held the first contract made by the United States Government for the carrying of mails, and received the first charter granted in Massachusetts for a turnpike. 60.6 The route now passes directly through the center of Northboro. 62.7 On the right is a small monument marking the site of an old garrison house where Mary Goodnow was killed by Indians in 1707. An Old Oak at the "Wayside Inn»» 58 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 65.5 The route skirts Williams Pond at the head of which, as the road turns to the left, is the old Gates Tavern estabUshed in 1665. 66. Marlboro (Pop. 14,600). As the route reaches the main street of the city, the Library is on the left. Just beyond the Soldiers' monument on the left is G. A. R. Hall, on the front of which is "John Brown's Bell" which hung in the engine house at Harper's Ferry where Brown made his fight and was captured. This bell he expected to ring as a signal for the uprising of the slaves. Beyond G. A. R. Hall is the high school. On the right the route passes the railroad station, City Hall and one of the several large manufac- tories of men's shoes in the city. 66.5 At the lower end of the city the route turns sharply to the left with a branch trolley Hne, at the end of which (67.0) it bears to the right and continues on the State highway. The right-hand road (66.5) leads to the Southborough Arms and to Boston via Framingham and Wellesley. 7 1. 1 Some five miles beyond Marlboro, on the left, is Red Horse Tavern made famous by Longfellow's "Tales of a Wayside Inn," but in itself an interest- ing specimen of a Colonial tavern. About the house are oaks of remarkable size and of great age. 71.6 On the left is a tablet marking the site of an old stone garrison house. From this point an ex- cellent view is obtained of the Wayside. 75.1 Passing through j South Sudbury the route crosses the meadows of the Sudbury River and passes directly through THE HEART OF THE OLD BAY STATE 59 77.2 Wayland. The village church, on the right was erected in 18 14. 79.4 On the right is the beginning of the Connecticut Path, which was an early trail through the forests to the Connecticut settlements. 80.6 Weston. The bell in the stone church on the left was cast by Paul Revere in 1801. At this point the more attractive route into Boston turns sharply to the right. To avoid Boston for points along the North Shore and the White Mountains by way of Portsmouth, keep straight ahead to Waltham, following the route outlined on the next two pages. Running, on the main route, across country from Weston for about three miles, the route crosses the Charles River (83.3) at Norumbega Park and enters the Commonwealth avenue boulevard. This excellent road, which passes through some of the best residential suburbs of Boston, will take us through Auburndale, Newton Centre, and a part of Brookline, passing the Beaconsfield Hotel (90.8), and may be followed to the center of the city (95.0). Among the better hotels on Commonwealth avenue are The Puritan, and The Somerset. A right turn around The Vendome into Dartmouth street will take one to the Copley Plaza, the largest of the Boston hotels. For the route to Concord and Plymouth see page 102. For the route to Portsmouth and North Conway see page 116. For Portsmouth to Portland and North Conway see page 135. For other routes see Finding-Map, page 2. GO FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS To reach the North Shore without entering Boston and avoiding all city streets. 80.6 At Weston the route keeps straight ahead on the Post Road to the city of Waltham. 84.0 The great watch factories, which are not clearly seen from the road, are on the right near the center of the city. 84.5 Upon coming in sight of a railroad crossing, we turn to the left and upon passing beneath a railroad, bear to the right. 86. On the right are the Waverly oaks which do not properly impress themselves upon the passer in the road, although they are in reality of great size and very old. 86.5 Here the road turns very sharply to the right and passes the entrance to Beaver Brook Reserva- tion in which the great oaks are located. On the left is the McLean Asylum for the insane. The route does not cross the tracks but bears to the left and runs with the railroad to 87.6 Belmont. Here again it bears to the left and runs along the borders of a great market gardening section. 88.6 On the right is Spy Pond. At the entrance to Arlington near the shores of this pond lived J. T. Trowbridge, the writer, at No. 152 Pleasant street. The house sets back from the road at a curve to the right, and the number is marked in the sidewalk. 88.6 Arlington. At the center of the town the route turns to the right on Massachusetts avenue, THE HEART OF THE OLD BAY STATE 61 which was the course of the British advance toward Lexington at the beginning of the Revolution. Paul Revere' s famous ride took him up this road. Running for a short distance on Massachusetts avenue, the route turns to the left directly beyond the railroad crossing at the old Cooper Tavern. 90.2 On the outskirts of ArHngton, at the outlet of the Mystic Lakes, the route turns to the right on a reverse curve and follows the Mystic Valley parkway to 92.3 Medford. At the end of the winding park- way the route turns to the left across the Mystic River and at Medford square, turns to the right with no trolley Hne. On the left in the square is the old Seccomb house now used for city offices. 93.2 Keeping straight through on Riverside street, the route passes, on the left, the plantation house of Matthew Cradock, the first governor of Mas- sachusetts Colony. This is one of the first brick houses built in New England, and is, in fact, one of the oldest houses standing in this part of the country. It was built in 1634. Cradock never occupied the house personally as he did not visit America, but did his governing from the other side of the water. 93.7 At the end of the road, the route turns to the right on a parkway and then at the first left, where it enters the 94.1 Revere Beach boulevard and joins the route from Boston to Portsmouth. (See page 116.) IV The Shore Line New Haven to New London, 53 Miles Described in reverse direction in Chapter XVII Of the two main routes between New York and Boston, that by way of Springfield is, all things con- sidered, the better. The route along the Shore Line is, however, far from unattractive, including as it does some of the finest roads in New England and affording an oppor- tunity to visit the great resorts of Watch Hill, Narragansett Pier and Newport. Perhaps there is no stretch of road of equal length in all New England on which there are standing so many houses of the Colonial period as on this road between New Haven and New London. Each of these old places, many of them with over- hanging second and third stories, seems to invite the investigation of its history, but they are so numerous that even a mention of them other than in this gen- eral and superficial way, is beyond the scope of ^the present writing. The towns of Branford, Guilford and Saybrook were settled before 1640, the other settlements are nearly as old, and all have escaped the inundation of manufacturing enterprise which has swept away the old landmarks in so many places. 62 THE SHORE LINE 63 New Haven to New London, 53 Miles For road map of New Haven section, see pages 16-17 Shown in reverse direction on pages 324-328 o. New Haven. Leaving the green on the left, the route follows Chapel street, through one of the least attractive sections of the city, crossing 1.2 Mill River as it enters New Haven Harbor, 1.8 Turning to the right on Ferry street, the Quinnipiac River is crossed at the head of the harbor. 2.7 At Forbes Corners the route bears to the left, avoiding the road to Morris Cove. 4.2 Passing through East Haven, the "Old Stone Church" is on the left. 5.2 On the left is seen Lake Saltonstall, on which the college boat races were formerly held. 7.2 Upon entering Branford, on the left is the Blackstone Memorial Library, said to be the finest building of its kind in Connecticut. The library and its ample endowment are the gift of Timothy B. Blackstone, formerly a Chicago railway president. On Montowese street at the. right (off the main route) is the site of the Russell parsonage, in which Yale College was formed. After leaving Branford the route runs for some miles through the country at a considerable dis- tance from the shore. Upon joining a trolley line we follow it into the old town of 16.2 Guilford. Opposite the lower end of the green, around which the route turns to the left, is the Halleck house (over stores) standing on 64 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS the site of the birthplace of the poet Fitz-Greene Halleck. Here he also spent the later years of his life. His burial place is in the cemetery on the right after passing the green. To visit the free Historical Museum owned by the State and lodged in one of the oldest houses in New Eng- land, keep straight ahead across the trolley line at the lower end of the green, on Whitfield street. The "Old Stone House," as it is called, built in 1639, is on the left, less than one-half mile down the street. Guilford was the birthplace of Rev. W. H. H. ("Adiron- dack") Murray, and here was one of the many hiding places of the regicide judges of Charles I. Neither, how- ever, is on the line of the route. At East River station the railroad is crossed and there are then views of Long Island Sound and Falkner Island light. 20.8 Upon entering Madison, at the further end of the green is the memorial Town Hall with tablets containing Civil War rolls. The main street of this fine old town is shaded by four rows of elms and lined with houses of the Colonial period, among which is an old inn, on the left. 23.7 Crossing Hammonasset River the route enters 24.8 Clinton. On the left is the home of Pond's Extract. 25.2 Upon the green, at the left, is a monument, surmounted by a group of books, which marks the place where the earliest classes of Yale College were taught by Rector Abraham Pierson, the first president of the College and pastor of Killingworth (now Clinton) church. The college at this time, THE SHORE LINE 65 was located at Saybrook Point, but as President Pierson refused to go there, the students were obliged to come to him and the college was prac- tically at Clinton though the commencements were held at Saybrook. Immediately beyond this green, on the left, is a large well-kept Colonial house, which contains the John Stanton collection of Connecticut an- tiquities. In front of Morgan School, on the left, are statues of Charles Morgan, the founder of the school, and "the good and learned Abraham Pierson." Longfellow's poem, "The Birds of Killing wor th , " one of the "Tales of a Wayside Inn," refers to this region. Grove Beach is on the right. 28.7 Crossing two branches of the Menanketesuck River the route enters and passes through the town of 29.5 Westbrook. The views of Long Island Sound obtained beyond the village are the last open sea views afforded by this route before reaching New London. 33.2 fold Saybrook. At the end of the road the route turns to the left around the Inn. Directly ahead across the street is an old mile-post of red sandstone, which gives the distance to Hartford as forty-one miles. A turn to the right on the main street of the town will lead one to the home of the First Church, which was or- ganized in 1646, in the "Great Hall" of the Fort. Con- tinuing below the church, and turning to the left, we may 66 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS reach (ij^ miles) Say brook Point, where the first settle- ment of the town was made in 1635. In the Point cemetery is the unlettered and transplanted tombstone of Lady Fenwick, who died here in 1648. Here, too, was located Yale College during the first years of its life, the site of the old school being marked by a boulder monument. 33.2 Continuing on the main street from the center of Old Saybrook, the route bears to the right at a fork in the village and soon reaches the 36.5 Connecticut River which is crossed about three miles from its mouth, by a toll bridge some 1,600 feet long. The site of the primitive old ferry used up to a few years ago, is seen below near the rail- road bridge, and the spire of Old Lyme is ahead at the right. 37.5 The route does not pass through this fine old village with its venerable trees and Colonial mansions, but turns inland at the entrance to the town and for the remainder of the distance to New London runs far back from the shore. 42.5 On both sides of the road is the M. F. Plant State Game Preserve. 44.5 The lower end of Pataguanset Lake is on the left. 45.8 Passing through East Lyme (Flanders P. O.) the road makes 46.7 a double crossing of the Niantic River, crosses the township of Waterford, and enters 52. t New London (Pop. 19,600). This was formerly a whaling center from which a large number of vessels engaged in the trade. THE SHORE LINE 67 The harbor, formed by the broadened mouth of the Thames River, is one of the best on the New England coast. From this point boats run to Fisher's Island, Block Island and New York, and here terminates the New London & Northern rail- road, now a part of the Central Vermont (Grand Trunk) system. The through route toward Boston enters the city on Bank street, passing, on the left, the large Colonial house which is now the home of the New London County Historical Society. This is one of the many New England mansions which entertained both Washington and Lafayette. A second house of the Colonial period, a little beyond, is the home of the Elks. Reaching State street, at the center of the city, the route S3, turns to the right and crosses the railroad tracks to the Groton ferry. (Continued to Boston on page 70.) Points of Interest in New London. This route does not oflfer the tourist an opportunity to see the chief points of interest in New London. The area of the city is, however, not large, and a short detour will amply repay the traveler. For many people interest will be centered in the old Town Mill, which is in fact one of the most notable relics standing in New England. New London was founded by John Winthrop, Jr., who came here from Ipswich, Mass., about 1645. Soon after this, probably in 1650, Winthrop built this mill which is not only still standing, but is still in daily use as^a grist mill. To visit this old landmark: upon entering State street turn to the left and crossing the "Parade" above the Soldiers' Monument, turn to 68 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS the right with a trolley line on Main street, and pass a large savings bank, on the right. About one-half mile beyond this, on the right, is the Old Mill. Winthrop's house stood nearby. From this point continue a short distance on Main street, turn to the left on Williams street, and then bear left into Huntington street. On an embankment at the right stands the schoolhouse where Nathan Hale, the patriot, was teaching when he received his commission to enter the Continental Army. In the open square just beyond is the statue of John Winthrop. At the fork of the roads as Broad street comes in from the right, is "Mt. Vernon House." Directly beyond this, at the head of State street, is the Court House, built in 1767, in front of which is the fire- men's monument. Opposite, on the corner of State street, is the Public Library. State street, which is the main business street of the city, will take us either to the Mohican Hotel or the Groton Ferry, whence a road along the east bank of the Thames leads to the Griswold at Eastern Point. (See page 70.) :0^ The Beach and The Mathewson at Narragansett Pier, R. I. Through the Narragansett Country to Boston (1) New London to Boston, 118.6 Miles (2) Fall River to Boston, via Plymouth, 108 Miles The section traversed by this route is noted histor- ically as having been the home of the Indian tribes which caused more trouble to the colonists than any others in New England. The savage Pequots and the Narragansetts under King Philip, were a constant menace to the settlers until they were virtually de- stroyed by the battles at Mystic, Conn., and in the great Rhode Island swamp fight, near Wickford. The face of the country through this eastern corner of Connecticut and across the State of Rhode Island is less attractive than that in other parts of the route, although there are many noble views of the sea and of the delightful shores of Narragansett Bay. The route selected as the best between New London and Boston crosses Narragansett Bay to Newport by a ferry, the passage of which is broken by a run of a mile across the island of Conanicut. This ferry trip occupies an hour, and is a pleasant and interesting variation to the ordinary features of a tour. The route by way of Providence is doubtless somewhat shorter, but the eight miles of city streets through Providence and Pawtucket make it far less attractive than this route by way of Newport. An added in- terest is obtained if the tourist elects to take the longer route from Fall River, which includes the shore resorts on Buzzards Bay, the line of the Cape Cod Canal and points of historic interest at Plymouth. 69 70 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS (l) New London to Boston, 118.6 Miles Described in reverse direction in Chapter XVI, page 310 o. The "Parade," New London, State and Bank streets. Running to the ferry at the foot of State street, the route crosses the broadened mouth of the Thames River. Above the railroad bridge at the left is the course of the Yale-Harvard boat races which either start or finish at the bridge. Straight ahead is Fort Griswold on Groton Heights and the monument, 134 feet high, erected as a memorial to those who fell in the massacre which took place here during the Revolution. o.i Upon leaving the ferry at Groton the route turns to the right along the river and follows the trolley line. At the second corner, on the left, is the Avery house, to which the wounded were carried during the attack on Fort Griswold. At the right on the New London side, is Fort Trumbull. 2.5 Upon crossing under the railroad, at the left is the monument "erected on the site of the home built in 1656 by Capt. James Avery, the founder of the family now known as the Groton A very s. This Hive of the Averys was owned and occupied by its valiant builder until his death. Its later ownership and occupancy passed in regular order of descent from father to son until it was burned on the night of July 20, 1894, Hinc illoe lacrimw." 3 . 5 After passing through the hamlet of Poquonnock Bridge, on the right as the trolley line leaves the route, is the Town Hall of Groton, which is placed THROUGH THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 71 in this seemingly out-of-the-way part of the town to accommodate the inhabitants of the widely scattered villages which it contains. ^.8 A Httle beyond a dilapidated trotting park, the road curves to the right and ascends the long steep slope of Fort Hill. Upon turning sharply to the left and reaching the second burial place at the top of the hill, a stop should be made for the view. From the wall enclosing the little cemetery of the Burrows family, the view includes Stonington and Watch Hill at the eastward; the mouth of Mystic River nearer at hand and Fishers Island, N. Y., beyond. Farther around toward the west is the mouth of the Thames with Hotel Griswold on the Groton side, and farther still is Groton monument and New London. This hill was the site of the fort of the Pequot Chief Sassacus who was defeated by Major John Mason with his band of colonists and friendly Indians, in 1637. The fort is supposed to have been located on the summit of the hill between the two cemeteries. Upon descending this hill the road encounters another of almost equal height, the southern shoulder of Pequot Hill. At the top of this hill a road at the left leads to the monument " erected by the State to commemorate the heroic achieve- ment of Maj. John Mason and his comrades." 6.9 Descending the sharp slope of the hill the route turns to the left and follows the trolley line across Mystic River (7.2) through Mystic. It is a sur- prise to learn that this well-known name is here 72 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS owned by no town. West Mystic, which is sep- arated from Mystic only by the river, is a part of Groton, while Mystic itself and Old Mystic, two or three miles to the north, are in the town of Stonington. 9.0 The route now runs near the shore of Fishers Island Sound, passing on the right a lighthouse which seems to be set at an unusual distance from the sea. Offshore is Fishers Island, and ahead on the right the town of Stonington. This was formerly a great whaling center and the terminus of the Stonington Line of steamers which was one of the principal passenger routes between Boston and New York. The town contains many old residences. In 1S14 it was bombarded for three days by several British warships, but the repeated attempts to effect a landing were frustrated. 1 1.5 The route bears to the left just before reach- ing the railroad crossing and does not enter the town. After passing Stonington there are two or three opportunities to see f Watch Hill with its many hotels and summer houses, over at the right. It seems strange that a country so filled with boulders and rocks of every description as this, should have proved attractive to the pioneers, but here they came as early as 1649, when William Chesebrough, who had been a prominent man in the settlements near Boston, built his house at the head of THROUGH THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 73 14. 1 Wequetequock Cove, which is passed on the right. 16.9 On approaching Westerly, in fact in what seems to be the center of the town, the route crosses the Pawcatuck River which here forms the boundary between Connecticut and Rhode Island. The community on the Connecticut side is a part of Ston'ngton. 17. Westerly, R. I. (Pop. 8,700), is noted for its quarries of fine granite, the derricks pertaining to which are seen at many points. At the center of the town the Post Office, Public Library and High School are passed, on the left, and the Court House on the right. 1 7. 1 Just beyond, as our route bears to the left on Granite street the road at the right, Elm street, leads to f Watch Hill, which is about six miles off the direct route. Among its better hotels are the Ocean House and the Watch Hill House. 17.2 Bearing to the right, and running across country the route nears the shore and affords many fine views of the sea and of the series of great lagoons which line the coast of Rhode Island from Watch Hill to Point Judith. 24. On the right is a monument erected by the State to General Joseph Stanton, Jr., the first United States Senator from Rhode Island under the Constitution, 17 90- 17 93. 25.5 Charlestown "Pond," the largest of the lagoons, is close at hand. On the outside of the bar which cuts this pond off from the sea, is Charlestown 74 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Beach, which is, however, reached from a point some miles further on. After passing through the Httle village of 28.4 Charlestown on the left is an old inn. (29.2.) On the right is a fountain erected as a memorial to Margaret Weeden "who lived on this farm from 1826 to 1863 and brought this water here." 34.7 The square tower on the left is a private water tower. Point Judith is now at the right and may occa- sionally be seen across Point Judith Pond. 35.8 About one-half mile back from the. road, on the left, is the birthplace of Commodore Oliver H. Perry, who in 18 13 commanded the squadron which captured the British fleet on Lake Erie. 38.2 Wakefield. After crossing the railroad at the station, the route turns sharply to the right and runs almost directly south. 38.8 At the four-corners, where the road straight ahead is marked for Providence, turn to the right and cross the railroad. For the more direct route, which does not pass through the center of Narragansett Pier, turn to the left at 39.4. See map, pages 80-81, for complete layout of the roads in this section. 40.9 At t Narragansett Pier the route turns to the left along the shore. Just at the right is the Casino, and a road by the shore runs in front of some of the more important hotels, the larg- est being The Mathewson. From this point is a fine view across the mouth of Narragansett Bay to Newport. Above this point, the road makes several sharp turns, but is unmistakable. THROUGH THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 75 42.2 At the covered bridge over the outlet of Narrow or Pettaquamscutt "River," Tower Hill is on the left. The road now ascends the ridge which forms the backbone of Boston Neck, and from which there are frequent views over Narragansett Bay. On the left, across the valley in which lies Narrow River, is McSparren Hill, on which was the home of Rev. Dr. McSparren, the rector of the first Episcopal Church in New England. The church is still standing in the town of Wickford, which is reached by the route to Providence. 45.8 On the right is St. John's Church, 47.2 Saunderstown. At this point our route leaves the direct road to Providence and turning to the right, descends the slope of the ridge to the two- parted ferry by which we are to reach Newport. From the ferry slip Dutch Island lies directly ahead, with the great Conanicut Island beyond. Looking along the main land at the left, Plum Beach is seen. The ferry rounds the upper end of Dutch Island, which is entirely occupied by the works and garrison of Fort Greble and touches on the eastern side. Conanicut Island, which is the immediate destina- tion of the ferry is nine miles long and contains the town of Jamestown. The distance across the island is about a mile. Beaver Tail light which is at the lower extremity of the Island, is the oldest light in America, having been established in 1667. Near the ferry slip on the other side are a number of large but rather uninteresting hotels. 76 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS The second ferry runs to the south of Rose Island, on which is a lighthouse and which is used chiefly as a powder magazine. - ■ At the right is Fort Adams at Newport, which was established during the presidency of John Adams. Directly ahead is Goat Island, which is occupied by Fort Warren and a torpedo station. As the ferry rounds this island, on the left are seen the buildings of the War College. The boat now lands at f Newport, the finest shore resort in this country. Its age is made manifest upon landing, by the width, or lack of width, of the streets. Thames street, on which we turn to the left upon leaving the ferry slip, is said to have been widened. Turning to the right at Washington square, we are in the center of the city. Here in the season are guides without number, but with well established ideas as to the value of their services. The "Cottage" drive at least should be taken, and the longer shore drive will not only give a better idea of the various features of the place, but will afford some delightful views. During the Revolution Newport was occupied by the British. Lord Percy commanded here and the fleet of Admiral Howe wintered here, 1777-78. There are many points of historic interest in the city. At Washington square is the monument to Commodore Oliver H. Perry, the hero of the Battle of Lake Erie, and the author of the famous despatch, "We have met the enemy and they are ours." Here Perry lived after the war. Beyond this monument is the old State House which was built in 1742, and served as a hospital in the Revolution. i^ A 78 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Running easterly, with the Perry monument on the left, and bearing to the right on Truro street, behind the State House, we enter Bellevue avenue, and pass, on the left, the Jewish cemetery and the Redwood Library which was established in 1750, On Bellevue avenue are the Muenchener-King cottages, and nearby is the New Clififs Hotel, which, though of limited capacity, afford the best accommodations for the tourist, there being no hotels such as are seen at Narragansett Pier. Nearly opposite this is Truro Park at the lower end of which stands the Old Stone Mill, the origin of which has been the subject of much discussion and study. The chief theories are that it was either built in the eleventh century by the Norsemen or in the seventeenth century by Gov. Benedict Arnold, who died in 1678 and bequeathed it as "my stone-built wind-mill." Longfellow, in "The Skeleton in Armor," makes it the bower and memorial of a viking's wife. The opening scenes of Cooper's "Red Rover" are laid in this vicinity. In the park stands a statue of Com. Matthew C. Perry, who directed the building of the first steam vessel of our navy and in 1854 concluded the treaty which opened Japan to the world. Here also is a monument to William EUery Channing, who was born in Newport in 1780. 49.0 To leave Newport the route starts at Wash- ington square with the Perry monument on the right and runs northeast with the trolley line, passing the City Hall on the right, and the Soldiers' monument. 5 1. 1 Two miles beyond, at a prominent fork, the route bears to the right and follows a branch trolley line to Tiverton. THROUGH THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 79 The Island of Aquidneck or Rhode Island is about fifteen miles long and besides Newport, con- tains the towns of Middletown and Portsmouth. 56.0 From the summit of Quaker Hill, the view overlooks the Sakonne "River," at the head of which is the Stone bridge (now in fact of steel) leading to the main land. On the heights beyond are the chimneys and spires of Fall River, among which there stands out prominently the great church of St. Anne. 61.2 The route now descends through Portsmouth and crossing the bridge regains the main land at Tiverton. From Pocasset Hill and the high land which the route follows toward Fall River, the view across the bay includes Mt. Hope, where King Philip met his death, and the spires of Bristol. On the outskirts of Fall River the route crosses the State line into Massachusetts. Fall River (Pop. 119,000). This is the largest cotton milling center in America and presents a remarkable conjunction of water-power and water transportation. The Quequechan River running from the Watuppa Lakes, which lie but two miles east of the center of the city, has a fall of 127 feet in one-half mile. The route enters the city on South Main street. Opposite South Park is the Church and College of St. Anne. 67.5 At the center, the City Hall, on the right, is built over the Quequechan, which crosses the line of Main street. By the side of City Hall is a fountain erected by Henry G. Coggswell of San To Providence 80 NARRAGANS; I Providence To Taunton \h [ditonS PI ^NEWPORT A ri A /V C o c 1'^ '^ 1(0 l9|5_Henry_iVlacNadrl Y DISTRICT 81 82 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Francisco, who "in 1833 as a boy marched to the music of the bell." This was also the scene of the Battle of Fall River, a Revolutionary engagement. At this point the route to Boston by way of New Bed- ford, the Buzzards Bay resorts, Cape Cod Canal and Plymouth, leaves on the right by Pleasant street, page 86. The direct route continues on Main street to Elm, where it turns to the left, and then to the right on Durfee street between the Armory and the Textile High School. At the foot of the grade the route turns to the left under the railroad and at once to the right on Davol street. 69.3 Crossing the Taunton River the route turns to the right, up stream. The river maintains its width for several miles and the views are most pleasing. 75.3 After passing through the villages of Potters- ville and Somerset, the route crosses an arm of the river and passes Dighton Rock Park, on the right. 77. Dighton Rock has scratched upon its face rude hieroglyphic signs which have been attributed by various authorities to the Norsemen, the Phoeni- cians and the American Indians. The rock is not near the park which bears its name, but something over a mile above and on the other side of the river. The precise location is almost directly across the river as the route jogs to the left in Dighton. The center of the village is over at the left. The route crosses the railroad at the sta- tion and passes through the village of Segreganset. THROUGH THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 83 79.5 Crossing Three Mile River, the route enters by Somerset street, and keeps straight through Taunton (Pop. 34,000), the seat of extensive manufactories of stoves, furnaces, etc. 83.3 At the center of the city, on the left, is the Green on which is a monument marking the spot where on October 25, 1786, General David Cobb with 400 troops defeated a body of insurgents in Shay^s Rebellion. Here also in 1774 (before the battle of Lexington) the citizens of Taunton raised a flag bearing the inscription "Liberty and Union." On the right, opposite the green, on the site now occupied by the National Bank stood the house of Robert Treat Paine, a signer of the Declaration of Independence. The route crosses the railroad at North Raynham, passes through the great Cedar swamp and the village of South Easton. 95. Beyond this village the road passes through one of the great Ames estates, of which there are several in this vicinity. The residence is over at the right. There follows a long stretch of wild or sparsely settled country, broken only by the town of Stoughton. 99.5 In passing through the center of this town the route bears to the left and then to the right. As the route runs over the rolhng turnpike road, the Blue Hills on the outskirts of Boston are seen rising directly ahead. On the summit of the Great Blue Hill is a weather forecasting sta- tion. The elevation of this hill is 606 feet. 84 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 103.9 -^t Ponkapoag, the turnpike enters the road from Canton, and two miles beyond the road runs over a shoulder of the Blue Hills. 106.4 At the entrance to the Reservation, on the right, the route bears to the right and descends from the shoulder of the Hills to the parkway below. 108.6 Turning to the left and running through the parkwa^^ the route crosses the Neponset River at Mattapan and continues straight ahead on Blue Hill avenue. (See map, pages 11 2-1 13.) • III. At Morton street, we turn to the left and run first between Austin and Pierce farms, both city institutions, and then between Franklin Park and Forest Hills cemetery. 113. Passing under the elevated and steam railroads at Forest Hills, the route enters a series of park- ways which continue practically to the center of Boston. 1 13. 1 On the left is Arnold Arboretum, a botanical garden in which is located Bussey Institute, one of the activities of Harvard University. 1 14.5 On the left is Jamaica Pond. 1 1 5.3 Leverett Pond is on the left and the Little Wanderers' Home on the right. On the right is Parker Hill, on which is a large hospital. 1 1 6. 7 On the right at the second crossing of Brook- line avenue, is Miss Wheelock's School for kinder- garten teachers. The medallion over the entrance represents Froebel instructing a group of children THROUGH THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 85 whose faces are those of children of graduates of the school. At this point the route crosses Brookline avenue diagonally, and bears to the right on Bo^dston street with a trolley line, passing on the left the baseball grounds of the American League. 1 1 7.2 Bearing to the left on Charlesgate West the route crosses above the railroad and turns to the right on Commonwealth avenue, whence a right turn on Dartmouth street takes us to Copley square, fBoston (118.6) (see map, page 304). F'or the route to Concord and Plymouth see page 160. For Portsmouth and North Conway see page 116. For Portsmouth to Portland and North Conway, page 135. For other routes see Finding Map, inside front cover. The Copley Plaza, one of Boston's Large Hotels 86 FAVORITE MOTORWAYS (2) Fall River to Boston, via Plymouth, 108 Miles Total distance to Boston from New London, 175 miles Shown in reverse direction on pages 299-309 o. Fall River (Pop. 119,000). From City Hall the route runs east on Pleasant street along the course of the Quequechan River and crosses the "Narrows " between the two Watuppa Ponds which, fed by immense springs, are the source alike of the city's water supply and the power for its mills. 2.3 Here we enter the turnpike which leads directly to New Bedford. 6.9 On the right is Westport Factory and on the left Lincoln Park, an amusement resort. 10. 1 After passing through the village of North Dartmouth the route soon enters 12. New Bedford (Pop. 96,600). This was formerly a great whaling center, more than 300 whaling vessels sailing from this port in 1857, but is now a place of large manufacturing interests, including more than forty cotton mills. From the high land at the entrance to the city the view overlooks the harbor, which is formed by the broadened mouth of the Acushnet River as it enters Buzzards Bay, and Fairhaven beyond. The route passes through little of the city, de- scending directly to the business center where it turns to the right for a block either on Pleasant or Purchase (main) street, and then left down the grade on Middle street to the river. THE OLD COLONY 87 13.7 From the great bridges over the Acushnet, the view behind includes many of the mills which line the water front. 14.2 fFairhaven (Pop. 5,000). Upon entering this town, the great High School building is straight ahead. This school, with other public buildings, the equal of which is probably possessed by no other town of the same size in New England, was made possible by the assistance of Mr. Henry H. Rogers, of the Standard Oil Company, who was born in Fairhaven and maintained a residence here. Immediately after crossing the bridge the route turns to the right and at Center street (14.8) turns to the left and passes the post office on the left, and on the right the Millicent (memorial) Library, the magnificent property of the Unitarian Church which occupies an entire square, Tabitha Inn and the Rogers School. Beyond this the route turns to the left on Rotch street and to the right at the block beyond, with the trolley line. From here the route follows a very irregular course as it passes around the various indentations which mark the shores of Buzzards Bay. 19. Mattapoisett. The route passes through the village with views of the bay. 24. Upon entering f Marion, the route turns to the right on Main street and at the center of the town, turns to the left on Front street. Marion is located on Sippican Harbor and has a great wireless sending station of the Marconi Company, which works direct with Norway. 88 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS The messages are sent mechanically at the rate of about loo words per minute and are received upon a photographic film. The receiving station at this end is located at Chatham on Cape Cod, about twenty miles away. The Sippican, a summer hotel, overlooks the harbor. 29.3 Wareham. Turning to the right at the end of the road and passing through the main street of the town, the route turns to the left across the railroad and over the Agawam River. Following along the open reaches of the river and again cross- ing its course the road enters 31.5 East Wareham. Here it again crosses the river which on the left appears like a pond, and turns to the right, passing the post office on the right. 32.3 At Onset Junction station, on the left, the road turns to the left and reaches the summer town of Onset which, gay and populous in August is almost deserted in October. Here the road skirts for a short distance the shores of Onset Bay, and soon crosses its head. 35.3 At the bridge over the railroad is a good view at the right down the bay. Grey Gables, the former summer home of President Cleveland, is seen, about two miles down the bay, but at such a distance it is difficult to identify it among the many cottages of similar type which dot the shores. 35.7 When crossing the mouth of Buttermilk Bay, at the right beyond the railroad is the home of General Taylor, chief owner of the Boston Globe. THE OLD COLONY 89 36. The route now turns sharply to the right and a short distance beyond, bears to the left at Buzzards Bay station. 36.6 At the right, just off the direct route, is the Town Hall of Bourne, with a Soldiers' monument before it, and just beyond it a bridge over the Cape Cod Canal. The direct route is by the north side of the canal. The road on the south side of the canal which is the route to all points on the cape, gives equally good views, and is not materially longer. Cape Cod Canal is about eight miles in length and carries eighteen feet of water. It saves some sixty miles of dangerous navigation between New York and Boston. The project was considered in early Colonial days and frequently revived, but was only brought to completion in 19 14. At this point the route to Falmouth and the south shore of Cape Cod with its numerous summer hotels, also crosses the railroad bridge to the right. On the northern and most direct route the road follows the line of the canal to 41. Sagamore bridge, at which point there are large car works on the southern bank of the canal. Turning to the left here (the right leading to Cape Cod points), the route traverses a rolling, sparsely settled section to Plymouth. Though most of this region is wooded with small oaks and pines, there are occasional farms and cranberry bogs and a few views over Cape Cod Bay. 44.1 At the extreme left a glimpse is had of Great Herring Pond. 45.3 When descending a rather sharp grade we come upon the best view which the route affords of the broad expanse of the bay and the encircling arm of the cape beyond. This view deserves more than Plymouth Rock Monument THE OLD COLONY 91 the mere glimpse which will be obtained if no stop is made, as the elevation is sufficient to make it particularly attractive. 46. At the foot of the hill another view is obtained, but at about the level of the sea. Two miles be- yond is a third and last view of the bay. 49.4 Passing Indian Hill farm the road soon skirts the shores of 50.6 Fresh Pond, which is the terminus of the street railway line from Plymouth. After passing through the scattered village of Manomet the road climbs the long slope of Manomet Hill through the woods and upon descending the other side emerges upon a series of superb views over 55.5 Plymouth Harbor and the adjacent waters. The long spit extending out from the south shore is Plymouth Beach; that stretching down to meet it from the north is Duxbury Beach, with the Gurnet lights upon its extremity. Within this upper bar lies Duxbury Bay in which is Clark's Island, where the Pilgrims spent their first Sabbath in the harbor. On this island is Pulpit Rock. Across the harbor rises the Myles Standish monument, topped with a figure of the valiant captain. This monument stands on Captain's Hill, Duxbury. Passing Hotel Pilgrim at the left, the route now enters t Plymouth (pop. 12,000), and the direct road passes straight through on the main street. A stop will naturally be made however, to visit the points of historical interest, among which are the following : 92 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 58. Town square is at the left near the center of the town. Here are clustered the Town Hall, the Church of the Pilgrimage and First Church. Here also is the main entrace to Burial Hill, on which stood the first fort and watch tower of the Colony. In the burial ground are many ancient stones, with interesting and quaint inscriptions, the oldest being that of Edward Gray, a merchant who died in 1681. Turning at Town square from the main street to the right we enter Leyden street, on which were built the first houses in the town. At Carver street is the site (marked) of the first common- house where on February 27, 162 1, the Pilgrims exercised the right of popular suffrage "and Myles Standish was chosen Captain by a majority vote." At the foot of Leyden street we turn to the left along the water-front and soon reach Plymouth Rock. Opposite this, on Water street, is Cole's Hill, where those who died during the first winter were buried. The graves were levelled to prevent their number being dis- covered by the Indians, and the following spring wheat was sown as a further shield to the graves. This is at the foot of North street, through which we may regain the main street. The linden trees on the left as we pass up North street are more than 100 years old. Turning to the right on the main street (now Court) we pass the Court House, on the left, and at the corner of Chilton street on the right reach Pilgrim Hall, which contains a valuable collection of objects which are related more or less intimately to the history of the Colony and the lives of its important men. The "trusty sword of Damascus" which was so ably wielded by Myles Standish is here, with Peregrine White's cradle, John Alden's bible and many other interesting relics. Continuing along Court street a turn to the left on Cushman street and then to the right on Allerton, will THE OLD COLONY 93 The Old Major John Bradford House bring us to the National monument to the forefathers on the summit of a hill which presents a broad and at- tractive view over the harbor and adjacent country. Returning now to the main street and resum- ing our route we follow Court street through North Plymouth, passing the extensive works of the Plymouth Cordage Company, on the right (60.6). Upon crossing Jones River at the entrance to Kingston a road at the right follows the river and leads to the un- marked house of Major John Bradford, which is elevated above the road, on the left, a little beyond the crossing under the railroad. This house was partly destroyed in King Philip's war and is further noted as being the house from which was loaned and lost the Bradford History which after an absence of more than 100 years was re- turned to the State of Massachusetts, from England, in 1897. Turning to the left at the corner just beyond the house and crossing the railroad, Bradford's Lane is reached at the right. This lane leads to the site of the house of William Bradford who was the second governor of the colony. The site is marked by a boulder. Just beyond the lane the road rejoins the main route. 94 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 63. Passing, on the direct road, through Kingston, the route crosses the railroad at the station. On the right is a nearer view of the Standish monument. 66. The road leaving at the right leads to South Duxbury where Myles Standish and John Alden lived. 66.5 A church and cemetery are passed in the woods on the left. 67.5 The towers of the wireless station at Dux- bury are seen on the right. 70.9 Marshfield. In the open triangle at the chiu^ch, as the route turns to the left, is a monument to Daniel Webster (d. 1852) whose home was in this vicinity. Upon crossing the railroad at Marshfield Centre station the route bears to the left, and again to the left at the next comer. Upon crossing over the railroad and passing East Marshfield station, the road bears sharply to the right and at the next comer turns again to the right. 76.8 Overlooking Little*s Bridge from this point and the lowlands along North River, Scituate water tower is seen on the hills ahead. About a mile beyond Little's Bridge is the birth- place of Samuel Woodworth, the author of "The Old Oaken Bucket." 77.8 As the route reaches the junction of several roads, the Woodworth cottage with its old well sweep is the third house at the left on Pond street THE OLD COLONY 95 about one-half mile off the route. As the route turns here to the right, it passes between the "wide-spreading pond" and "the mill that stood by it." The old mill bears the date, 1640. 78. At this point Greenbush station is over at the right. Passing through a part of Scituate with the water tower on the right, and the village of Egypt, the road bears sharply to the left at a prominent comer and crosses the railroad at 82. North Scituate. A little beyond this crossing on the banks of Bound Brook, on the right, is the stone marking the boundary between the colonies of Plymouth and Massachusetts Bay. This vicinity was the home of the family from which Abraham Lincoln is supposed to have been descended. 82.5 Just beyond the bound stone on the left, a Httle above the road are two old houses still in possession of the Lincoln family. The little house standing farthest back from the road was built by Mordecai Lincoln, the first of the line in this country, for his son Isaac. The house of Mordecai is still standing, on the farther side of the pond, beyond the mill. 84. Upon entering Cohasset, the green with its quaint church, is passed on the right. To reach the famous Jerusalem road with its extensive views over the sea, turn to the right a little beyond the green and upon reaching the shore, follow around to the left. Off shore at this point is Minot*s Ledge light, and the view to the northward looks across the mouth of Boston harbor to the North Shore as it stretches down toward Cape Ann. Running out from the mainland is the fNantaskftt peninsula. (See map, pages 48-49.) 96 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Keeping ahead on the direct road, the route crosses the railroad (85.7), passes North Cohasset station and again crosses the railroad at Nantasket Junction (87.5). 87.7 Turning to the left the route skirts the shores of Hingham Harbor and enters 88.6 Hingham. This is one of the famous old towns of the State with a history extending back to the earliest days of the colonies. A short dis- tance off the route is the oldest church edifice standing in New England. To visit this "Old Ship" as it is called, turn to the left across the tracks at the station. The church, which has a central belfry, stands just beyond, on an elevation at the left, by the cemetery. Beyond the station, the route bears to the right. 90.8 Cross Weymouth Back River. 92.8 Weymouth Fore River. From the bridge, the Fore River Ship Building Works are on the left. Here many large vessels, including several battle- ships have been constructed. We now enter Quincy, which was the birthplace and home of two presidents and many other men of note. 94.8 On approaching the center of the city the route passes the post office on the left and the Library on the right, and reaches the "Stone Temple" in the fork of the streets on the left. This is the Unitarian church in which the two presidents, John Adams and John Quincy Adams are buried. The building derives its name from the fact that it is built of THE OLD COLONY 97 material taken from a quarry given to the town by John Adams with the request that the stone be used for a "Temple." To visit the homes of the presidents, which are open to visitors, turn to the left around the Temple on Hancock street. About one-half mile down the street, on the left is Christ Church at the corner of Elm street, before which is a curious fountain embellished with figures and texts in the manner of a ^^^sx"""" wayside shrine. Opposite this foun- ~~lfMdarns School *^i^ ^^^^ ^^ *h® right, with the trolley wj!i^ line. Pass Adams school and turn to ^P hSs^^ the left on Franklin street. The two \^ houses are on the right, at the junc- tion of Independence avenue. 94.8 The direct road bears to the right at the "Tem- ple" on Hancock street. 95. On the left at the fork of Hancock and Adams streets is Adams Academy, which stands on the site of the birthplace of John Hancock. To visit the fine old mansion of the Quincy family (3/10 mile), continue on Hancock street. The house is on the right next the High school. Here was born "Dorothy Q.," the wife of John Hancock. 95. The route bears to the left on Adams street, and crosses over the railroad. Just beyond, on the right, at the corner of 95.3 Newport avenue is a long, old-fashioned house with many chimneys. This is the "Golden Wed- ding House" so called because the golden weddings of John Adams, John Quincy Adams and Charles Francis Adams were celebrated here. 98 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Upon approaching East Milton some of the Quincy granite quarries are seen at the left. On the top of Forbes Hill at the right, is a stone water tower. 97. East Milton. The railroad which is crossed at the station, is about on the line of the first rail- road (horse-drawn) in this country, built in 1826 to transport stone from the Quincy quarries for the construction of Bunker Hill monument. 98. Continuing through on Adams street the view at the right looks out over Boston Harbor, and includes the tower of the Boston Custom House. 98.8 Bearing to the right through Milton the road crosses the Neponset River, passing between the factories of the Baker Chocolate Company. 98.9 The route immediately bears to the left and follows Morton street. 100.4 Upon crossing Blue Hill avenue, the road passes between 101.4 Austin and Pierce farms, both institutions for the insane. Beyond this, Franklin Park is on the right and Forest Hills cemetery on the left. 102.5 At Forest Hills the road crosses directly under the elevated and steam railroads and ascends a shght grade beyond. On the left is Arnold Arbore- tum, in which is Bussey Institute, one of the de- partments of Harvard University. The route now continues through various sec- tions of the parkway system of Boston for about three miles, the sections merging one into another in a continuous roadway. THE OLD COLONY 99 104. Jamaica Pond is passed, on the left. After croSvSing trolley lines on Huntington and Brookline avenues, the end of the 106.2 Riverway is reached at a second meeting with Brookline avenue. Crossing this avenue diagonally, the route enters Boylston street and passes, on the left, the American League baseball grounds, beyond which it bears to the left on one of the roads of the Fenway and crossing the railroad enters Commonwealth avenue, whence a right turn on Dartmouth street takes us to Copley square, t Boston (108). For the route to Concord and Plymouth see page 102. For Portsmouth and North Conway see page 1 16. For Portsmouth to Portland and North Conway, page 135. "On a Stern and Rockbound Coast' VI From Massachusetts Bay to the White Hills (1) Boston to Plymouth, N. H., 138 Miles (2) Boston to North Conway, 152.5 Miles Described in reverse direction in Chapter IX There is little that can be said as to the advantages of one of these routes over the other as a means of reaching the White Mountains. The routes are of about equal length and each passes through a section of the country which has its own particular features of beauty and interest. If, however, the round trip is to be made from Boston to Boston, it is better, all things considered, to go by way of Plymouth and return by way of Con- way. In making the circuit in this direction, the grades are taken on their easier side both going and coming. Both routes traverse the State roads of Massa- chusetts, and each uses one of the great highways which New Hampshire has constructed for the benefit of the traveler to the White Hills. These New Hampshire roads, unlike any others in New England, are marked by bands of distinguishing color on the fence posts, telephone poles, etc., which entirely obviate the necessity of using running direc- tions unless it be in passing through the center of some of the cities. 100 0) 102 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS (1) Boston to Plymouth, N. H., 138 Miles Described in reverse direction on pages 201-216 See map, pages 112-113 o. Leaving Copley square, Boston, the route runs north on Dartmouth street and turns to the left on Commonwealth avenue or Beacon street. 0.7 At Massachusetts avenue it turns to the right, crosses Charles River and enters Cambridge. 2.2 At Central square it turns to the. right on Prospect street, which carries a car line. 3.1 Turning halfway to the left on the concrete approach to a large railroad bridge, the route runs straight through Union square, Somerville. 3.3 A little beyond the square the route turns to the right on Walnut street up a steep grade. Upon descending the grade it crosses Broadway, jogging a Httle to the right, and passes Broadway Park, on the right. 4.4 At the end of the park it turns to the left on Mystic avenue. The buildings of Tufts College are seen on a hill above the Mystic trotting park. Crossing Mystic River, the route enters 6.5 Medford square, and immediately turns to the left. On the corner at the right when making this turn, is the quaint old Seccomb house, now used for city offices, and just in the rear of this is a fine old garrison house of brick. 6.7 On the left is the Armory and on the right the Library which occupies the house of Thacher MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 103 Magoun, a noted Medford shipbuilder, who built his house as he did his ships. All the rooms save two of high stud which were intended for the social purposes of his wife, were made like a ship's cabins. 7.6 On the right is the City farm. 9.2 Entering the attractive residential town of Winchester, with the High school on the right, the route crosses the railroad near the station and soon enters 1 1.6 Woburn. On the square at the left is a Civil War monument, a boulder monument to soldiers of the Spanish War and (under glass) a ventilator cowl of the battleship Maine. [3.7 Passing through North Woburn, the road winds over what has sometimes been called the snake route to Wilmington Junction, passes 16.8 Silver Lake on the left and crosses the Shaw- shine River. When approaching Tewksbury, the State Alms- house is seen on the right. 22.3 After running through this village the road crosses several railroad tracks at Wamesit, the Indian name for the region, and passing the Shedd playground on the left, enters 26.6 Lowell (Pop. 106,000). This is a cotton manufacturing center, built around the mills which were established at Pawtucket Falls in 1823. At the entrance to the city, the route bears to the left on Rogers street, and turns to the right with a branch trolley line, on High street. At Church street it turns to the left and crosses the 104 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Concord River. Turning to the right on Central street we reach the center of the city, and turn to the left on Merrimack street. 27.4 A little after turning into Merrimack (main) street, we pass on the right, St. Anne's Episcopal Church, erected in 1824, "a monument to the religious purpose which animated the first manu- facturers." Lucy Larcom, who was a mill girl here about 1840, says: "I admired the church greatly. I had never before seen a real one ; never anything but a plain frame meeting-house, and it was like a leaf out of an English story-book." Immediately beyond the church is one of the canals supplying power to the mills and just be- yond, as the route bears to the right on Moody street, is the statue of Victory, on the left, and a monument to Charles A. Taylor and others, the first to fall in defence of the Union at Baltimore, April 19, 1 86 1. 27.5 Standing in the fork of the streets is City Hall, and directly beyond it the Library. 28.1 We now cross what will probably be found to be the dry bed of the Merrimack River, all of the water being diverted by canals for the use of the great mills. The peculiar rock formations which are exposed are, however, of some interest, this portion of the river bed having carried the rapids below Pawtucket Falls. Beyond the river, the route turns to the left opposite the yellow brick buildings of the Lowell MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 105 Textile School, and entering the Merrimack boulevard, the scene of former automobile races, follows the river closely for several miles. 31. The village of North Chelmsford is on the op- posite side of the river. 32.4 On Tyng's Island, at the left, is the home of the Vesper Country Club of Lowell. This island was the favorite dwelling place of Passaconaway, one of the most important of the New Hampshire Indian chiefs and of his son Wannalancet, the last sachem of the Merrimack River Indians. Both were faithful friends of the colonists. Just beyond this island, on the other side of the river, is seen a large yellow house standing on high land back from the road. This is the Jonathan Tyng estate. Here Hannah Dustin stopped on her return from Indian captivity in 1697. In the lane leading to the house stands a boulder monument to the memory of Wannalancet, who died here in 1696. 34.7 Crossing Tyngsboro bridge and passing through the town, the road traverses a pleasant rolling country on a ridge above the river valley. 36.8 The Massachusetts-New Hampshire State line is crossed, the boundary stone being on the left. 37.2 A short distance beyond this, the tablet on the right marks the site of one of three early churches in Dunstable. The location of these churches shows something of the changes which have taken place in the centers of population since the days of the early settlements. 106 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Dunstable, now a Massachusetts town lying west of Tyngsboro, formerly included the site of the present city of Nashua. 37.8 At the old cemetery on the left — the oldest in New Hampshire west of Portsmouth — is a monument to a second church. 39.8 On the left, opposite the beginning of a trolley line, is a third tablet, this marking the site of the first church in Dunstable. 40.8 Entering Nashua, the route passes the John M. Hunt Home for aged couples, on the right. 41.6 Nashua (Pop. 26,000) has large manufactories of shoes, cotton, etc. Just beyond the center of the city, the Nashua River is crossed. The brick building, just ahead, with a square tower and clock is the Public Library. This part of the city, beyond the river, was at one time incorporated as a separate town under the name of Nashville, as the result of a quarrel in regard to the location of the Town Hall. Leaving the Soldiers' monument on the left, the route passes through a part of the best residential section of the city. 43.9 The pumping station of Nashua's water system is on the left. 47.4 Thornton's Ferry. At the cross-roads on the right, is a monument erected by the State in memory of Matthew Thornton, a signer of the Declaration of Independence. 48.9 Running by a bend of the river, the road passes MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 107 through Merrimack village, where the Souhegan River is crossed. 50.8 The only village in the next ten miles is that of Reed's Ferry. A Httle west of this place is the birthplace of Walter Kittredge, the author of "Tenting on the Old Camp Ground." 58.5 The route now turns to the right and enters Second street, Manchester (Pop. 70,000). This, the largest city of New Hampshire, is a great cotton manu- facturing center, the mills standing in solid ranks along the river which has here a fall of about fifty feet. This was formerly a great resort of the Indians and the home of one of the tribes who called it Namoskeag (fishing place) or Amoskeag, as the falls are now known. In the days of the early settlements also, the fisheries at this point were a valuable asset. It is said that the shad were so thick as to crowd each other in their passage up the falls, "so that you could not put in your hand without touching some of them." Turning to the right on Granite street, at the end of Second, the route crosses the river, and affords a view of a portion of the imm.ense mills. 59.1 Passing the railroad station on the right, the route turns to the left on Elm (main) street, and passes through the business center of the city. Turning to the right on Webster street, the route leaves the city. 66.7 A few miles beyond Manchester, the tower on 108 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Hooksett Pinnacle is seen straight ahead, and soon comes more prominently into view. 67.8 On the right is St. Mary*s Roman Catholic School for girls. Just beyond, on the right, opposite a road com- ing in from the left, is a well preserved mile-stone bearing the date 1790, and giving the distances to Haverhill thirty-two, and Chester, sixteen miles. 69.4 At the top of a grade, on the right, is an almost undecipherable mile-stone, bearing the date 1790. 71. At the village of Suncook, the route crosses the Suncook River, a brawling stream which furnishes power for many mills. A Httle beyond the village, at the top of the ridge, on the right, is a third mile-stone, this one dated 1793, and bearing the letters D. K., these being undoubtedly the initials of the keeper of the tavern before which it stood. The hitching ring in this stone is an unusual feature. 73.1 Passing through Pembroke, the route soon crosses the Merrimack and enters 76.8 t Concord (Pop. 21,500). This is the capital of New Hampshire. At 52 South Main street, through which the route enters the city, is the former home of President Franklin Pierce, on the left. The house is marked by a stone on the lawn, and a companion stone in the same grounds marks the site of an old garrison house. 78. At the center of the city is the State House, surrounded by other public buildings. Opposite the State buildings is the Eagle Hotel. MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 109 In front of the Capitol, the grounds of which are entered through a Soldiers' memorial archway, are statues of Franklin Pierce (erected in 19 14), General Stark, Daniel Webster and John P. Hale, the first avowed anti-slavery member of the United States Senate. On the right of the Capitol is the State Library and behind it the Post Office, Historical Building, City Hall and a statue of Com. George H. Perkins, whom Farragut called "the bravest man that ever trod the deck of a ship." A mile west of the center of the city on Pleasant street, is Pleasant View, the former home of Mrs. Mary Baker Eddy, and a little beyond, at the right, is a monument marking the site of an Indian massacre in 1746. Farther out on the same road is St. Paul's school for boys. 79.7 Bearing to the left beyond the center of the city, the route passes the State Prison. 84.2 At the village of Penacook the road crosses the Contoocook River. At the junction of this stream with the Merrimack is Dustings Island, where Hannah Dustin, in 1697, killed her Indian captors, and from whence she made her way by canoe to her home at Haverhill. 84.6 On the right is an old inn, bearing the date 1787. 86.4 At the entrance to Boscawen, in the rear of the first house in the village, on the right, is a boulder marking the site of the Old Fort which was 100 feet square and built of hewn logs. The site chosen for this fort, like that of some of the forts which no FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS were erected along the Connecticut River, is a bench dropping sharply to the river bottom. 86.8 A httle further on, at the right, are two tablets, one marking the site of the birthplace of Gen. John Dix, 1798, and the other the site of the old law office of Daniel Webster, whose birthplace was in Salisbury, a few miles at the left of the route. General Dix was in the War of 18 12, at the age of fourteen; was a Lieutenant at sixteen, a lawyer, Post- master of New York and Assistant Treasurer of the United States. As Secretary of the Treasury under Buchanan he sent to New Orleans the famous message: ".If anyone attempts to haul down the American flag, shoot him on the spot." He was prominent in the Civil War, the first president of the Union Pacific RR, Minister to France and Governor of New York. The late Rev. Morgan Dix, rector of Trinity Church, New York, was his son. 90.8 At Gerrish is the Merrimack County farm. 93.9 On the right at Webster Place station, is an Orphan's Home and School. The original house in this group of buildings is Elm farm, one of the homes of Daniel Webster from 1800 to 1852. In front of the house is a boulder bearing an appropriately inscribed tablet. 96.4 The route now enters f Franklin, where the Mer- rimack River is formed by the junction of the . Pemigewasset and the Winnepesaukee. The road straight ahead leads to Bristol and Newfound Lake. The main route doubles upon itself to the right, crosses the Pemigewasset and passes through FrankHn Falls, following the course of the Win- nepesaukee. (See map, pages 208-209.) MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS HI 98. At the top of the hill just beyond the town, is a tablet on the left calling attention to a stone mortar which was used by the Abenaki Indians and the pioneer settlers for grinding corn, etc. This samp mortar is contained in the first boulder or out-cropping of ledge directly behind the tablet, and is well worth a visit. 100. Tilton. This is perhaps the most profusely embellished town of its size in New England. At the entrance to the village is a park (overgrown) on the left, with statues; at the railroad station is a fountain surmounted by the figure of an Indian ; behind the station is a statue of "Squantum, Chief, 1620;" a little further on is another fountain with an Indian and at the end of the town, on the right, is an island park (overgrown) with more statues. Above the town on the summit of a steep hill at the right is the Tilton memorial arch, fifty-five feet high, a private memorial of the Tilton family. On the hill above the town at the left, is Tilton Seminary, with a clock in its tower. At the left as the road passes the island park, is the Tilton residence, on the brow of the hill above the road. The route now enters the lake region and presents an almost unbroken series of superb views. 1 01. 1 The Belknap mountains, which lie to the south of Lake Winnepesaukee, are ahead at the right. On the right is Little Bay, followed closely by Sanbornton Bay, both enlargements of the Winne- pesaukee River. 106.5 At Winnesquam bridge, vSan*bornton Bay is at the right and Lake Winnesquam at the left. To Portsmouth 112 Continued on puy^^ ^a 49 UPPER METI Newburyport AN BOSTON 113 114 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS «(!•' V'f „|-e ^i(f^ / f^edHiii \ y^OiSffiee 5dr?cf^v/c/? /^an^e from h^/nnepesdukee Ouf/er Beyond the lake rise Red Hill and the mountains of the Sandwich range. Over Mt. Israel, which seems to be the left-hand section of Red Hill, are Sandwich Dome and Tri-pyramid, its side scarred by a double slide. Over Red Hill rise Mt. Whiteface and Passaconaway, while still further to the right is the rounded Toad Back or Paugus Mountain and the sharp peak of Chocorua. This is followed by the nearer Ossipee range, the highest peak of which is Mt. Shaw. The Sandwich mountains have an elevation of about 4,000 feet. 109.4 fLaconia and the adjoining town of Lakeport are manufacturing places obtaining water power from the Winnepesaukee River. One of the principal manufactories is the Laconia Car Works. Upon leaving Lakeport, the road follows closely the shores of Long Bay. 1 1 5.7 Lake Winnepesaukee (elevation 500 feet). On the right at the crossing of the outlet of the lake, is Endicott's Rock, protected by a canopy which is surmounted by the figure of an Indian looking away across the lake. This rock was marked in 1652 by surveyors sent out by Governor Endicott to determine the headwaters of the Merrimack river and bears the Governor's name, MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 115 the initials of the surveyors and commissioners, and the date. A large modern tablet behind the rock within the canopy, recites the story of the expedition. At this point also was located the fish weir, by means of which the Indians were accustomed to take great quantities of shad as they ran into and out of the lake. Just ahead on the right, is the village of Weirs, but this the route does not enter, keeping instead straight ahead up the hills and obtaining grand views of Winnepesaukee and the mountains of the Sandwich and Ossipee ranges. 1 1 8. At the highest point, Whiteface and Passacon- away are seen over Red Hill, with Chocorua just to the right. 1 19.3 Below, at the left, is Lake Waukewan. Descending a steep grade, the railroad is crossed at Meredith station and the route leads straight through the village. 124.7 The road now skirts the shores of Squam Lake for some distance, passes White Oak Pond on the left and at 128.4 t Holderness follows the shores of Little Squam, furnishing a succession of most attractive views. 132.5 At Ashland, the route turns sharply to the right and soon rejoins the Pemigewasset River, which was crossed at Franklin. 134. 1 After crossing the Pemigewasset, the road follows the intervales of the river to 138.3 t Plymouth. (Elevation 473 feet.) (Continued through the White Mountains on page 148.) 116 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS (2) Boston to North Conway, 152.5 Miles The Shore Route to Portsmouth Reverse description on pages 179-200 See map, pages 112-113 o. Boston, Copley square. Running north on Dart- mouth street, the route turns to the left on Com- monwealth avenue or Beacon street. At Massa- chusetts avenue, it turns to the right, crosses the Charles River and enters Cambridge. 2.2 At Central square it turns to the right on Prospect street which carries a car line. 3.1 Turning to the left across a large railroad bridge, it runs straight through Union square, Somerville. 3.3 A little beyond the square, the route turns to the right on Walnut street, up a steep grade. Upon descending the grade, it crosses Broadway, jogs a little to the right and (4.2) passes Broadway park on the right. Entering the Metropolitan park system, the route crosses Mystic River and turning to the right beyond, enters the Revere Beach boulevard (5.2) . 6.4 Everett. Passing through the borders of the settled portion of this town, the main part of Chelsea lies at the right with the U. S. Marine Hospital appearing prominently on one of the hills. Straight ahead is Powder-Horn Hill. After skirting the shoulder of this hill, the Soldiers* Home is seen on the summit, at the right. 9. At the first (left) curve beyond the spice mill, is a tablet on the right, marking the scene of an engage- ment in the Revolution at which Israel Putnam MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 117 won the first commission as Major General granted by the Provincial Congress. I0.2 Revere Beach. While running along the beach, Nahant lies at the right, across the bay; the State Bath-house, of brick, is passed on the left, and the Point of Pines is at the end of the beach. 13.6 Crossing Saugus River, Lynn is seen straight ahead. The square tower is on High Rock, in the center of the city, and commands a fine view. At the left, beyond the railroads, are the works of the General Electric Company. 15.2 Lynn (Pop. 89,000), is a center for the manu- facture of women's shoes. Bearing to the right at the station (with clock) of the narrow gauge Boston & Revere Beach RR, the route keeps straight through. 15.6 At an open triangle on the right, is the build- ing of the Lynn Women's Clubs. The Rocky Shore at Marblehead, Mass. 118 MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS The following detour will be necessary while Paradise Road is under repair during 19 15. The road at the right leads to the Lynn Shore Drive, which may be followed through Swampscott to Marble- head or Salem. On this detour one follows the old Puritan road, passing several shore resort hotels, most prominent among which are the New Ocean House at Swampscott and Hotel Preston at Beach Bluff. The direct route keeps straight ahead on the smooth paving. 16.7 At t Swampscott it jogs left and right and then continues on Paradise road. Upon approaching Salem, after crossing the railroad, some distance over at the left may be seen the High School v^hich is located near Gallows Hill, where the "witches" were hanged. The yellow brick buildings of the State Normal School are on the right. 20. The road from Marblehead rejoins the main route. The route now passes through the heart of the district devastated by the great fire of 19 14, and reaches the center of (see map, page 120) Salem (Pop. 43,700). This is called the Witch City, and contains many points of interest, a few of which are located directly on the route. 2 1 . 1 On the right in a small open square is a statue of Father Matthew, the Apostle of Temperance. 21.2 The route turns to the right on the narrow main street (Essex) of the city and immediately to the left on St. Peter's street. On Essex street opposite the head of St. Peter's, with a large anchor before it, is the East India Marine Hall and Museum,with excellent collections. 21.3 Turning immediately to the right at the venerable St. Peter's Church, we pass the rear The Old "Witch" or Roger Williams House at Salem 120 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS of the armory and, just beyond, the Nathaniel Ward house erected in 1684, and now standing on the grounds of the Essex Institute. 21.4 At the end of Brown street, the statue of Roger Conant, an early settler, is passed on the right. Here, on Washington square, are several substantial homes erected by the sea merchants a century ago, one of which is occupied by the Salem Club. At the boulder monument to soldiers of the Civil War, the route turns to the left and then to the right on Bridge street. BEST ROUTE THROUGH SALEM, MASS. Other points of interest off the direct route, the loca- tion of which is shown on the map above, are: 2. Witch, or Roger Williams house, on Essex street. 3. The Court House, in which are shown the witch pins. 4. Birthplace of Nathaniel Hawthorne, 27 Union street. 5. The Custom House, where Hawthorne worked. 6. The House of the Seven Gables, Turner street. MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 121 22.4 From the bridge between Salem and Beverly, the State Asylum for the insane is seen on a hill far at the left, up the Danvers River, and Salem Willows, a shore resort, on the right. 22.7 Beverly (Pop. 18,600). This is a well-known resort for people of wealth, the shore line from here to Gloucester, fourteen miles, being almost wholly occupied by summer homes. During the admin- istration of President Taft, it was the summer capital. The route passes through a particularly unattractive section of the city, bearing to the left on Rantovil street, with a branch trolley line soon after crossing the bridge. To visit the shore, keep straight ahead on Cabot (main) street, turning to the right at the next corner. This trip takes in the North Shore resorts of Magnolia, the Ocean- side Hotel, and Gloucester, The Moorland (See map, pages 112-113.) On Rantoul street, the route passes the post office on the right, and railroad station on the left. 23.9 At the end of the street it turns to the left and follows the trolley line. 24.1 On the left are the factories of the United Shoe Machinery Company, 1,220 feet long. On hills at the right are Beverly Hospital and Salem Reservoir. 25.2 Just beyond the brick fire engine house, where the route turns to the right, is a tablet, on the left, marking the site of the first cotton mill in America, which was visited by Washington in 1789. 122 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 26.7 Wenham Lake, on the left, at North Beverly, is the source of early shipments of ice to England. Thackeray says: "Everybody (of the genteel world, of course) has the same everything in London. You see the same coats, the same dinners, the same boiled fowls. . . and the same lumps of Wenham Lake ice." 27. The boulder monument at the side of the lake commemorates a sermon preached on this spot by Hugh Peters in 1636. 27.2 Immediately beyond, at the cemetery, on the right, is a quaint milestone erected in 17 10, bearing the inscription: "Job 30:23. For I know that Thou wilt bring me to death and to the house appointed for all living." 27.7 Opposite Wenham Church is another mile- stone, and still another one-half mile beyond, both on the right. 29. Soon after crossing the railroad at Hamilton- and-Wenham station, the polo grounds of the Myopia Club are on the right, and immediately beyond, on the left, next to the schoolhouse, is 29.4 The former home of Gail Hamilton (Mary A. Dodge) a writer during and after the Civil War. 29.9 Hamilton Church. Rev. Manasseh Cutler, who was largely instrumental in fostering the immigration which settled Ohio, was pastor here. 30.3 A little beyond the church, on the left, is the residence of George von- L. Meyer, former Secretary of the Navy. The house is of terra-cotta, with an Italian garden beyond. MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 123 31.3 Beyond the three-corners where the road turns sharply to the left, is the residence of Congressman Gardner. The buildings are on the right, dark red. Glimpses only are had of the house. 32.3 On the left is another old mile-stone. 32.6 The inscription on Appleton's Bridge recites the stages of its construction. 33.7 On the culvert over a brook at the entrance to Ipswich, on the right, is the following in regard to the road traversed: "This road, from Rowley to Salem, was laid out in the year 1640 by order of the General Court. It was then known as the Bay Road, and was the first road thus authorized." 33.9 Entering f Ipswich, the tablet at the head of the green, marks the site of an early church. The route follows the trolley line through the town. 36.4 Midway between Ipswich and Rowley is the pumping station of the Ipswich water-works, on the left. 38. Rowley is the seat of Dummer Academy. 41.7 Approaching Parker River bridge, the Oldtown Hills lie directly ahead across the river. 42.2 After crossing the bridge, on the left, is an attractive monument erected to the first settlers of Newbury, who landed near this spot in 1635. 43. Rounding the shoulder of Oldtown Hill, the view at the right includes the sand dunes and cottages on Plum Island and the mouth of the Merrimack River. 44.7 At Oldtown Upper Green, on the left, is a MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 125 monument marking one of the camping places of the forces of Benedict Arnold on the expedition to Quebec in 1775, and a monument to Newbury soldiers of the Civil War. Near the church is a group of old houses; on the left the house of Henry Sewall, built about 1678; next beyond the church, the Tristam Coffin house where was born Whittier's schoolmaster. 45.1 Just beyond is the Ilsley house and opposite, the Tappan house, both built before the Revolution. fNewburyport (Pop. 15,000) has many points of interest. High street, upon which the route enters, runs the length of the city and is one of the fine streets of New England. The old Wolfe Tavern is at the right, on State street. 45.8 At the head of the "mall" is a bronze statue of Washington by J. Q. A. Ward, who also made the Washington which stands before the sub-treasury in Wall street, New York. Off the route is the mansion of "Lord" Timothy Dex- ter, on High street, a little above the railroad; on Federal street is the church, beneath the pulpit of which is buried George Whitefield, the renowned Calvanistic preacher, and behind this church is the birthplace of William Lloyd Garrison. Chain Bridge, the first suspension bridge in America, spans the Merrimack two miles above the rail- road, at which point, on an island, is the home of Harriet Prescott Spofford. Upon meeting a trolley line the route turns to ' the right with it on Winter street and passes the railroad station, on the left. 46.5 Crossing the Merrimack River, the route continues through 126 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 48.5 Salisbury. At this point the shore route by way of Salisbury, Hampton and fRye Beaches, leaves to the right, but it is not recommended on account of its chronic state of un- comfortable roughness. To speak quite frankly the New Hampshire beach as a whole seems to promise more than it fulfills, and the more attractive part at Rye, with the Farragut in its setting of gnarled old trees, is better reached by turning off at Hampton (56.0), returning by way of Rye Center, when the rougher parts and sharper turns are thus avoided. The map on page 186 shows the three routes. 51.0 After passing through a pine grove at a promi- nent four-corners, the Hne between Massachusetts and New Hampshire is crossed. The boundary stone is on the left. 51. 1 Smithtown, a trolley junction, is at the en- trance to Seabrook. This is an elongated village, chiefly noted for its automobile traps. 54.1 Hampton Falls adjoins Seabrook. Opposite an old brick building, is the Wells homestead, "Elmfield," often visited by the poet Whittier. 54.2 Just beyond, on the left, is a monument erected by the State to Meshech Weare, the first President of New Hampshire. 55. Beyond Hampton Falls, the line of cottages at Hampton Beach is seen across the marshes at the right. 56. Hampton. At the entrance to this town, just after crossing the railroad the road turns sharply to the left around an old "haunted" house. This was the residence of Gen. Jonathan Moulton, who owned large tracts of land on the northern shores of MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 127 Lake Winnepesaukee. His wealth was reputed to have been obtained by the sale of his soul to the Evil One for as much gold as could be contained in his great top boots. The General was supposed to have placed the boots in one of the fireplaces of the house to receive the gold as it was poured down the chimney. Leaving Hampton, the route into Portsmouth passes through a farming and wooded country. 60.5 After crossing the second railroad bridge, the route skirts the shoulder of Breakfast Hill, Green- land, so named because in 1696 a band of Indians was attacked here while at breakfast and defeated. 61.6 The spires of Portsmouth are now seen, and directly ahead is Mount Agamenticus, at York, Me. 62.7 The extensive estate on the right is * 'Win- chester*' farm. The road to the right, "Elwyn road," next left joining the trolley and next right leaving the tracks, leads to Newcastle Island and The Wentworth, a large summer hotel which was the headquarters of the Russo-Japanese Peace Com- missioners in 1905. The conferences, however, were held in the Naval stores room at Kittery, across the river. 6 7 . The route now enters f Portsmouth, a city having a population of 11,000, and possessing many quaint features and places of interest. A few of these will amply repay the tourist for the shght detour necessary to visit them. (See next page.) To pass directly through the city and on to the White Mountains, it is only necessary to follow the yellow bands which mark the route of the State road. 128 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS To visit Portsmouth's chief points of interest. Turning to the right from the main route, on State street, the house on the corner at the left is where Admiral John Paul Jones resided. In this port he fitted out the Ranger in 1777, and the America in 1781. At the Post Office, turn to the right and at the next street (Court), to the left. On the corner at the right when making this turn, is the Governor Langdon house, a mansion which Washington called the best house in town. Here was entertained Louis Phillippe, afterwards King of France, Lafayette, John Hancock, and many other notables. Continuing down Court street, the "Nutter" house (marked) is on the right. This is the birthplace of Thomas Bailey Aldrich, and the house of which he wrote in the "Story of a Bad Boy". The house is now the Aldrich Memorial, and is open to visitors in the summer. Turn to the left a little beyond the Nutter house, on Chapel street, and continue to Daniels (City Hall). On the right-hand upper corner stands the Warner house, a three-storied brick building of fine Colonial type. Built in 1 7 12 of material brought from Holland, it was the first brick house in Portsmouth. The lightning rod is said to have been installed in 1762 under the personal super- vision of Benjamin Franklin. Just beyond, on Chapel street, St. John's Church stands at the top of Church Hill. The church, formerly known as Queen's Chapel, is open to visitors and retains a distinct flavor of the old sea-port. Among other pos- sessions are two mahogany chairs presented by Queen Caroline in 1732, and a curious font of porphyritic marble, brought from Africa in 1758. From this church, in accordance with the terms of a bequest made by one of the early parishioners. Col. Theodore Atkinson, a portion of bread is distributed every Sunday morning after the service, to the poor of the parish. In the burying ground adjoining the church is the tomb of Governor Wentworth and many other interesting memorials. MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 129 Retracing our way on Chapel street and turning to the right on Daniels, we soon reach Market square at center of the city. Here the Atheneum is on the right. 67.5 From Market square the route runs straight ahead on Congress street, shortly turning to the right on Vaughan, passing No. 32, the house where Daniel Webster brought his bride in 1808. Crossing the railroad near the station the route leaves the city, keeping straight ahead as the trolley leaves to the left after crossing the mill pond. 69.2 On the left is the estate formerly occupied by Frank Jones, a wealthy brewer. 71. From the brow of the hill is an attractive view of the valley of the Piscataqua River and the hills beyond. Mt. Agamenticus is seen at the right. 72.2 When crossing the toll bridge between Newing- ton and Dover Point, Great Bay lies on the left and the Piscataqua River on the right. This river forms the boundary between New Hampshire and Maine for several miles. 78. Dover (Pop. 13,000) is the seat of large cotton and woolen mills. The Cocheco Mills are on the right in the center of the city. Dover is the oldest place in New Hampshire, having been settled in the spring of 1623. 78.7 Just beyond the mills is a memorial fountain in the center of an open square. The railroad station is on the left at the crossing. 79.7 Passing the hospital on the right, the route follows the trolley line almost to the center of 83.5 Somersworth, where it turns sharply to the left. 130 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 85.5 After regaining the old direct road from Dover, the route begins the ascent of a long hill, from the top of which is a wide view, embracing many of the lower mountains in the vicinity of Milton. In very clear weather, Mt. Washington is seen. At the foot of the hill lies the city of 90.1 Rochester. In the center of the city is a monument to Rev. Amos Main, "the first settled minister of the Congregational Church in the Province of Rochester, 173 7-1760." The route leaves this monument on the left. The left-hand road at this point leads directly to Lake Winnepesaukee, see maps, pages 176-177. 95. At North Rochester (Hayes' Crossing) the stream on the right is the dividing line between New Hampshire and Maine. 98.2 At Milton are large ice harvesting plants and many summer camps on Milton ponds, at the right. From Plummer's Ridge, beyond Milton, the hills at the left are the Teneriffe Mountains (1,100 feet). 104. Passing through Union the road skirts the base of the Middleton Mountains and at 109. Sanbornville, ascends a steep hill from the summit of which Mt. Shaw of the Ossipee range appears ahead and at the left. 109.8 Wakefield. After crossing the railroad at the station, the route reaches an elevation of about 1,000 feet, the highest point touched until after it passes Bartlett, more than fifty miles above. 1 12.5 When nearing the summit of this ridge, the Belknap Range, on the further side of Lake Win- nepesaukee, is seen at the left. MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 131 1 13.8 On the descent from this ridge, the first views of the northern mountains are obtained, including (in a clear day) the White Mountains proper. The peak of Mt. Chocorua in the Sandwich Range, is directly ahead at the beginning of the descent. 116. A mile beyond North Wakefield (Matthews station) the road crosses the railroad and ascends a steep grade. (See map, pages 208-9.) Looking North from 55/ pee 1 16.8 From the elevation thus reached, is an ex- cellent mountain view ahead, embracing the Ossipee, Sandwich and Presidential ranges. 1 19.5 At the entrance of fOssipee village, the build- ings of the county farm are seen at the left. 121. On the right is Duncan Lake, one of the favorite bass-fishing resorts of President Cleveland. 123. The view overlooks Ossipee Lake. At the right of the lake rises Green Mountain. After passing through Centre Ossipee, the Bear camp Mountains, forming the eastern end of the Ossipee Range, come nearly to the road. 126.8 In the first open meadow at the right, beyond a white farm house, is a mound believed to cover the grave of Indians killed in battle with Captain Lovell's band of Indian fighters in 1725. LovelPs Fort was at the further end of the field. 132 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 127. The small stream now crossed is Lo veil's River. A narrow road at the right at the top of a Httle hill just beyond this stream, leads {% mile) to Ossipee Lake. 128. At the railroad crossing (Lake wood station) Mt. Washington lies directly up the track. After crossing the Bearcamp River, the Ossipee Mountains are seen at the left as the road crosses the intervale to 13 1.3 West Ossipee (Whittier station). Eleva- tion 470 feet. Here on a slight knoll on the left (as a road from the left comes in along the river) stood the hotel where the poet Whittier spent many- summers. A favorite seat was among the willow trees below the hotel site, at the left. Among his poems of this immediate locality are "Among the Hills," "Sunset on the Bearcamp" and * ' Voyage of the Jettie. ' * 133.5. Moore's Pond is seen at the right. After passing through Chocorua village the road ascends sharply and reaches the point from which the best known view of Chocorua Mountain and Lake is obtained. 136.5 The road now skirts Chocorua Lake, and soon presents a new view of the mountain, with its house perched upon the ledges. 1 4 1. 5 A glimpse of Knowles Pond is had on the right. 145.2 When nearing the village of Conway, Mt. Kearsarge, with a house on its summit, appears directly ahead. MASSACHUSETTS BAY TO THE WHITE HILLS 133 146.7 At Conway the Presidential Range appears across the valley of the Saco and upon leaving the village and crossing the river, Moat Mountain, and the L-edges^ White Horse and Humphrey's — are at the left. At the right are the Redstone quarries on the extremity of the Rattlesnake Mountains. 152.5 t North Conway (Elevation 520 feet). This is caUed the "Gateway of the Mountains," and has long been a popular resort. The broad intervales of the Saco enclosed by the Rattlesnake Range on the east, Mt. Kearsarge (3,270 feet) and Mt. Bartlett on the north, and the Ledges on the west, overtopped by Moat Mountain, make an attractive series of pictures. There are many points of interest in the vicinity, among which are Echo Lake, at the foot of White Horse Ledge; the Cathedral, at Cathedral Ledge; and Diana^s Baths, at Humphrey's Ledge. At t Intervale, two miles above are the Cathedral Woods, an attractive grove of large pines, entered at the railroad station. Here, also, is The Inter- vale, a popular hotel. Continued through the White Mountains in Chapter VIII, page 159. from the Jnterva/e, North Conivay The Wentworth at New Castle, N. H. VII Through Lower Maine Portsmouth to Portland and North Conway Described in reverse direction in Chapter IX The construction of State roads in Maine is in its infancy, but the work is being prosecuted earnestly and there are many stretches of excellent highways. The main entrance into the State by way of Ports- mouth, which was for years a remarkably poor road now furnishes to the automobiling tourist a comforta- ble and pleasant drive. Between Portland and the White Mountains the road conditions are still susceptible of great improve- ment, but when this is effected the route will be de- servedly popular, as there is an almost entire absence of even such grades as are encountered on the direct White Mountain route from Portsmouth. The rise from sea-level at Portland to the 500 feet elevation of North Conway is gradual and without intervening ridges of any considerable height. The views of the mountains are excellent, and offer new contours to those who have only approached this side of the mountains by the direct route from Ports- mouth. 134 THROUGH LOWER MAINE 135 Portsmouth to Portland, 64.2, and North Conway, 117.7 Miles Reversed on page 170. Map on page 174 o. Leaving Portsmouth by Market street the route crosses the Piscataqua River and enters Kittery, Maine. 0.6 From the old toll bridge the large mill seen at the left is a plant erected and fitted for the manu- facture of paper, but never used. Down the river glimpses are had of the Navy Yard and of Seavey's Island beyond, where many Spanish war captives were quartered. The con- ferences which terminated the Russo-Japanese war were held at the Navy Yard. The route does not follow the shore line, but runs for a few miles straight across an open farming country. 3.4 On the left is Mt. Agamenticus. Although of no great elevation, this hill affords a wide and im- pressive view embracing the shore line from Cape Ann to Cape Elizabeth and often including the White Mountains. The summit is the legendary burial place of St. Aspenquid, an Indian prophet and saint. On the line between Kittery and York lived Esther Brooks and Betty Potter, who by reason of the location of their abode are said to have escaped the payment of taxes in either town. When in 136 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 1837 President Jackson caused to be divided the surplus revenue of the nation among the inhabi- tants of the United States these ladies, it is believed, were the only people in America who failed to receive their respective shares. 6.0 The road crosses York River and bears to the right at York Corners. (7. 5".) 8.5 At York Village the church and town house are on the left. Directly opposite, on an elevation somewhat back from the road, is the old York Jail built in 1653, preserved at the suggestion of .William Dean Howells,and containing an interesting collec- tion of relics. It was intended by Sir Ferdinand Gorges, by whom the place was founded, that York should become a great city, and under the name of Gorgeana it was the first place in America to receive a city charter from England. 8.5 Bearing to the right at the Soldiers' monument, the left-hand road being a short cut to York Beach, the route passes York Harbor post office on the right, and soon bears to the left by Trinity Church. 10.4 Ahead on the right is Cape Neddick with its lighthouse on the Nubble, and Boon Island light rises from the sea straight off shore. Stretching around toward Cape Neddick is the long curve of t York Beach. 12.9 A little beyond the end of the beach, as the road curves to the left after crossing the base of the cape, the rocky shore of f York Cliffs, with the Pas- saconaway Inn, is ahead on the right. THROUGH LOWER MAINE 137 To reach York Cliffs keep to the right after passing York Beach village. The main route is rejoined at Ogunquit. 17.2 Mt . Agamenticus now about three miles distant, is seen at the left. 18.7 t Ogunquit. This is a favorite resort of many artists. At the right is Ogunquit Beach. 23. On the right is a boulder monument commemo- rating the defence of the garrison on this spot June 9-1 1, 1692, whereby 400 French and Indians were successfully resisted and Wells remained the eastern- most town in the Province not destroyed by the enemy. 24. Wells; "not a town but a street." Over at the right is Wells Beach, which is separated from the mainland by Wells River. 25.8 Immediately after crossing Moreland River, a prominent road at the right leads to fKennebunk- port, a popular shore resort. Among its large hotels is Breakwater Court. (See map, page 174 for this detour.) 28.8 Crossing Mousam River the route passes directly through 30.4 Kennebunk and crosses the Kennebunk River. For the remaining distance to Portland the road runs inland or, to speak more correctly, the shore line bears away to the eastward. 37.4 Upon entering Biddeford, the Weber Hospital is passed on the left. Running directly through the town, the route crosses the Saco River which here forms the dividing line between the cities of Bidde- ford and Saco. The combined population of these 138 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS cities is 23,500. The falls of the Saco at this point furnish power for manufacturing and here end the log drives on the river, which begin their course in the region of the White Mountains. Biddeford Pool is about nine miles off the route at the right, reached by Pool street. 39. At the Soldiers' monument, Saco, the road at the right leads to Old Orchard Beach. 44.6 After passing through the villages of West Scarboro and 47.6 Scarboro, the heights of Portland are soon seen directly ahead. Crossing Fore River, at the foot of the Western Promenade, the route ascends a grade at the right and enters 52. t Portland (Population 58,500). Holmes says Portland was "meant for a fine old town to ripen like a Cheshire cheese within its ancient rind," but the Portland of to-day is far too active a city to properly carry out his idea. The city is built on a long hill or saddle-back, which terminates at both ends in abrupt bluffs along the brows of which run the Eastern and Western Promenades. When running toward the center of the city on Vaughan and Pine streets, the route passes near Williston Church (at Carroll and Thomas streets), the birthplace of the Christian Endeavor movement. At the junction of Pine and Congress (main) streets, is a statue of the poet Longfellow. One block to the right is the Lafayette Hotel. 53.3 The direct through route here crosses Congress into State street and leaves the city. THROUGH LOWER MAINE 139 To visit some of the attractive features of the city, turn right (east) on Congress street. On the left near the Soldiers* monument, is the Wadsworth-Longfellow house. Here lived Longfellow's mother, Zilpah Wadsworth, before her marriage, and here the poet lived as a boy and young man. Longfellow's birthplace, however, stands in the easterly part of the city near the harbor at the corner of Fore and Hancock streets. Next to the Wadsworth-Longfellow house is the Preble house, which has for its nucleus the mansion of Commo- dore Preble. Continuing east on Congress street to visit the Eastern Promenade with its view of Casco Bay, City Hall is passed, on the left. This Hall possesses the somewhat unusual feature of a municipal organ. On the right, across a small park, are the Federal and County Court Houses and the Post Office. In the Eastern Cemetery which is passed on the right, is a stone to the memory of Henry Wadsworth, for whom Longfellow was named. Commodore Preble, who com- manded the squadron which in 1803 bombarded Tripoli, is also buried here. On the right when ascending Munjoy's Hill, is an observatory which affords a wide and attractive view in every direction. In the clearest weather Mt. Washington may be plainly seen. Upon reaching the Eastern Promenade the monument directly ahead is erected to Henry Cleaves, the first settler of Portland, and bears the four names by which the peninsula has been known. From this point the view over Casco Bay includes the U. S. Marine Hospital at the left, the various fortifications of the region and the southern entrance to the harbor at South Portland, on the right. The Grand Trunk RR makes its entrance to the city around the base of the bluff. 53.5 Returning to the center of the city the route leaves Congress street, at the Congress Square Hotel, by way of Forest avenue, rejoining the 140 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS through route on State street just before the first railroad crossing, and passing the Deering Oaks on the left crosses the railroad at Woodfords. 56.4 At MorrilPs Corner, just after crossing a second railroad, the route bears to the left. The branch of the road at the right leads to Poland Spring. (See map, page 172). 58.3 On the right is Riverton Park. Here the road crosses the Presumpscott River, which is the out- let of Sebago Lake. 61.5 Highland Lake post office. It is difficult to say at what point on this route the mountains will first make their appearance. It sometimes occurs that Mt. Washington is so plainly seen from Port- land that it appears to be only a few miles distant, while at other times one may approach within a short distance of Conway before the mountains are seen through the haze. Excellent views are generally obtained, however, from the vicinity of Sebago Lake and at frequent points beyond. 66.8 Crossing Pleasant River, a branch of the Presumpscott, the route passes through Windham Centre and North Windham (69.2). Sebago Lake, which the road nov^ approaches, is fourteen miles long and eleven miles wide. As the route nears 74.5 Raymond, glimpses are had across the lake at the left, but the best views are obtained after passing through the village. This portion of the lake, called Jordan Bay, is cut off from the main body of water by Raymond Neck. Near the lower end of the neck are Frye*s Rocks, which rise about seventy feet from the water and THROUGH LOWER MAINE 141 are painted with a reproduction of scenes said to have been originally placed on the face of the cliffs by Indians. Here it was that Captain Frye, pursued by the savages, leaped from the top of the rocks to the water and swam to the nearby Frye's Island. 77.3 On the right is Thomas Pond. In this vicinity lived Nathaniel Hawthorne as a boy. The Haw- thorne house, now used as a church, stands a little at the right of the route on the road leading out upon Raymond Neck. At the outlet of Thomas Pond, on the right, is a large flat rock from which Hawthorne liked to fish and which is known as Nat's Rock. The State of Maine contains the remarkable number of 1,580 lakes which, with the surface of its rivers, constitute about one-tenth of its total area. The section which this route traverses con- tains its full proportion of lake and stream. 81.5 After crossing Crooked River, and as the road from 82.5 t Poland Spring comes in from the right, we reach an elevation above the Bay of Naples, named not by reason of its similarity to the famous Italian Bay, but because the village of Naples lies at its head. Between this bay and Sebago Lake is the Songo River, the subject of poems by Whittier, Longfellow, and many lesser writers, and famed for the beauty of its narrow winding course. Steamers from the lower end of Sebago Lake pass through this river, the Bay of Naples and to the upper end of Long Lake beyond. 142 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 83.2 Descending to the level of the lakes, the route crosses between the bay and Long Lake, through the village of f Naples. Long Lake is about fourteen miles in length and is deservedly popular as a summer camp and cottage resort. The views in this vicinity are delightful as the White Mountains are frequently in sight, Mt. Kearsarge, which from this side has a conical appearance, being followed by the Presidential peaks and the sharply defined outline of the Notch of the Carter Mountains. 91.9 Following the general course of Long Lake the route crosses the Bridge ton & Saco River rail- road at the entrance to Bridgeton, The gauge of this railroad (two feet) is the narrowest used by any commercial railroad in the country. Bridgeton. The original name of this town was Pondicherry from the abundance of small ponds and cherries found here. The route turns to the left through the village and then to the right at the park and along the shores of Highland Lake, another most attractive sheet of water. 95.9 On the left is Beaver Pond, and just beyond Mt. Pleasant is close at hand on the left. 97.5 The road now crosses Moose Pond by a two- parted causeway and rounds Pleasant Mountain through the hamlet of East Fryeburg. We now enter the valley of the Saco River which here makes a great bend to the northward, and in the broad intervale of which is the pleasant village of Fryeburg. THROUGH LOWER MAINE 143 Before entering the village, however, the Jockey- Cap is passed on the right. This great rock, which contains a multitude of small garnets, overlooks Lovell's Pond, at the left of the road, the scene of the last battle of Capt. John Lovell the great Indian fighter, who fell here in 1725. In this battle the Indian chieftain Paugus was also killed. 107.3 Passing through Fryeburg the route crosses the line between Maine and New Hampshire and reaches Centre Conway. Beyond this village the route turns sharply to the right and soon crosses the Saco River. On the right is the Rattlesnake Range with the quarries at Redstone on its extremity. Straight ahead and at the left are White Horse and Cathedral Ledges and Moat Mountain. Swinging into the direct road from Portsmouth the route runs up the broad intervale of the Saco to 1 17.7 t North Conway (elevation 520 feet). Continued through the White Mountains in Chapter Vin next following, page 159. Mounts Washington and Madison from the Glen Road Dalton Jc^ \ y ForrestL. :y|^' North Litt'letoiiX / ^^^^^^'^'^ Sputh" Littletoi [hitefiel/ -^ Littleton ncipiidiT^ jWing Road BETHLEHEM Carroll \ Agassiz Mt ■^/nonooa^ ORAFTON" 00 .#.- Sugar Loaves 3e CRAWFORD HO North TwinMt , Profile Golf Links ^ ^ I , » / South Twin Mt \ Mt.Sarfield , Eagle Cliff 1 , (Hayjtach) f^G^oZ:^^^ Profile House °rc/;/e House ProBleL Cannon Mt., (Old Man of ttie Mountains) Mt Pemifewassett 2,663' <■ Flume Lodie Bo^Mj-^ 144 THE HEART OF TI THITE MOUNTAINS 145 43 a, The Mount Washington at Bretton Woods VIII Among the Mountains* (1) Plymouth to North Conway, 80 Miles (2) North Conway to Plymouth Plymouth, standing in one of the gateways to the mountains, is situated at the junction of the Pemige- wasset and Baker Rivers. Its elevation is 475 feet. From this point the main line of the railroad bears to the west and follows the valleys of Baker's River and its tributaries until it can break through the hills and reach the Connecticut. Another line follows the Pemigewasset straight into the heart of the mountains, and it is this route which our path also follows. Section 2 of this chapter describes the trip through the mountains in the opposite direction. The reader will glean a general knowledge of the geography of this wonderful region by studying the double-page map on pages 144-5, which shows the roads, mountain peaks and other useful detail. *Consult Finding Map, inside front cover, for layout of routes radiating from the White Mountains. 147 148 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Plymouth to North Conway, N. H., 80 Miles Described in reverse direction on pages 159-167 o. Leaving the square in the center of Plymouth on the left, the route runs north and crosses Baker River (0.6). 2. On the right are Livermore Falls, now more use- ful than ornamental. As the route continues up the valley the views of the mountains ahead be- come frequent. From a hill near 6.2 West Campton the Franconia Mountains of which Mt. Lafayette is the highest peak, come prominently into view lying in great masses at the head of the valley. Fran con /a Mrs. from Campfon /////s From here too is a view up the valley of Mad River at the right, including Sandwich Dome with Tri-pyramid just beyond and Tecumseh a little to the north. As the road passes through the villages of Thorn- ton, West Thornton and Woodstock the Franconia range grows nearer until at North Woodstock, the route is really at its feet. Over at the right when nearing North Wood- stock is the village of Fairview on the eastern bank of the river. AMONG THE MOUNTAINS 149 2 1. t North Woodstock. The route does not cross the river, but continues straight through the village. Here a right-hand road leads across the river to the Deer Park Hotel, rejoining the main route at the farther end of the village. The elevation at this point is about 900 feet. 22. Just beyond the town, on the left, is a Reserva- tion of the Appalachian Mountain Club. From this point the valley narrows and the ascent is more pronounced, the road rising about 600 feet in the course of the next five miles. On the right are the Coolidge Mountains with rounded summits and the sharper peak of the sHde-scarred Mt. Flume. On the left is Mt. Pemigewasset, which rises directly behind the Flume House. After the railroad is crossed at Johnson's Mills, the main ascent really begins and continues with- out interruption to the 26. t Flume House, where the elevation is 1,500 feet. The climb to this point, the steepest part of which is at the top of the hill, is the only serious grade which will be encountered between Plymouth and North Conway. From this point the road continues to ascend for five miles, but the grades are neither so long nor so steep. From the piazza of the hotel is a pleasant view down the valley toward Plymouth, and from this point the motintains of the Lafayette range present roughly a lay figure of Washington; Mt. Liberty, directly in front of the hotel forming the head and Mt. Lincoln the feet. 150 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS From the Flume House, a road at the right leads ]/2 mile to the foot of the famous Flume. At the right also, just above the stables, a pleasant path through the woods leads (3^ mile) to the Pool, an immense basin worn a hundred feet deep through the rocks by the action of the river. The water in the Pool is said to be forty feet deep. We are now fairly in Franconia Notch, with mountains rising sharply on either side. After crossing the river a mile above the Flume House, the road soon passes on the left 28.4 The Basin, a great bowl, worn by the action of the waters. Extending into the basin is an offshoot of the ledge in the shape of a human foot of colossal size. If the tourist has time to stop here and will make a short excursion into the woods beyond the Basin, following a path which leads at first a little down- stream, he will find a series of beautiful cascades coming down the mountain-side. The road now runs through the forest for about a mile, and upon emerging into the open affords a grand view of the cliffs of Cannon Mountain, on the left, and Eagle Cliff directly ahead. Immediately above the road at the right rises Mt. Lafayette, with an elevation of more than 5,000 feet. The road runs so closely at the base of the mountain, however, that no adequate view is to be had of the peak. 3 1. 1 The road now skirts the shores of Profile Lake, on the further side of which is Cannon Mountain. On the summit of this mountain as seen from the pavilion at the head of the lake, is the Profile — 152 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS "The Old Man of the Mountains" — the crowning marvel of Franconia Notch. Just beyond is the 31.4 fProfile House. The elevation at this point is 1,950 feet, and this is the height of land. Profile Lake is the headwaters of the Pemigewasset which, through the Merrimack, empties into the ocean at Newburyport, Mass. ; and the waters of Echo Lake, just beyond the Profile House, find their way northward into the Ammonusuc and Connecticut, and thence into Long Island Sound. Echo Lake, along the shores of which the road now runs, is well named, and under favorable conditions the most remarkable echoes may be awakened from the vicinity of the boat house. The road follows around the lake, at the foot of Artist's Bluff, from the summit of which is an im- pressive view of the Notch the Lafayette Range. 34.8 At Profile Golf Links, the outlook is across the Gale River valley, in which is located the village of Franconia, to Sugar HilL From this point the road follows the 1,400 foot line of elevation, for several miles, crossing the narrow gauge Profile & Franconia Notch RR and Gale River, and affording frequent views, at the right, of Mt. Garfield (Haystack) and Twin Moun- tains. Directly ahead, as the road nears Twin Mountain House Railroad Station, is Cherry Mountain, from the summit of which Crawford Notch was discovered about 1773 by a hunter named Nash, who there- upon made his way through the Pass and reported his discovery to Governor Wentworth at Portsmouth. AMONG THE MOUNTAINS 153 41.6 At this point the Presidential Range comes into view up the valley of the Ammonusuc. Crossing the railroad and the river and ascend- ing a sharp grade the road reaches 44.8 fTwin Mountain House, where a turn to the left leads to f Maplewood and f Bethlehem, both with excellent hotels. Our route turns to the right along the Ammonusuc, which has its source in Lake Tear of the Clouds high up on Mount Washington. 48. On the right are the lower falls of the Ammo- nusuc, with their peculiar shelving rocks. 49.5 The route now passes the White Mountain House, and Fabyans at which point the elevation is 1,573 feet. This is the starting point of the railroad which runs to the base of Mount Washington, where it connects with the cog road to the summit. 50.3 fBretton Woods, The Mount Washington Hotel. From this broad valley, in which are located some of the largest hotels in the mountains, is obtained the nearest and best view of the whole Presidential Range. Mount Washington, the highest peak of the northern Appalachians, has an elevation of 6,293 feet. Ppesfdenfidl Range from Bretfon Woods 154 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 50.6 A little beyond the Mount Pleasant House is a memorial chapel on the left, and on the right a fountain erected in memory of Samuel J. and John F. Anderson, who, as officials of the Portland & Ogdensburg RR, as the main line of railroad through this region was called at the time of its construction, were largely instrumental in opening this section to the traveler. From this point there is a gradual rise to 53.5 t Crawford House, where the elevation is 1,893 feet. Here, also, is a parting of the waters, the lake in front of the hotel holding the headwaters of the Saco River, which finds the ocean on the coast of Maine, while streams which descend from the mountains on both sides of the hotel flow westward into the Connecticut. Above the lake is the Elephant's Head, with its trunk seeming almost to touch the waters. Directly ahead is the narrow Gateway of the Notch, filled by the bulk of Mt. Webster. At the right of the gateway is Mt. Willard, which may be easily ascended, on foot or by ''burro," and which affords one of the most delightful views to be found anywhere in the region. Immediately after entering the Gateway of the Notch, the road descends Tug-of-war Hill. On the right, when making this descent, are the cliffs of Mt. Willard, and on the left are the Flume and Silver Cascades. The greater part of the road is now through the forest, but there are occasional openings and nu- 156 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS merous glimpses of the mountains which tower on either vSide. 56.2 Willey House (elevation 1,450 feet). The site of this house is in the first clearing which allows a general view from the valley. At this point Mt. Webster is on the left, and at the right is Mt. Willey, its face still scarred by the slide which in 1826 destroyed the Willey family. Looking down the valley, Mt. Crawford is on the left and Mt. Bemis on the right. Turning backward we see Mt. Willard at the head of the Notch. As we continue down the valley, following from one knoll to another, but always descending through the forest, the Frankenstein Cliffs rise sharply at the right. 62.3 The road now reaches the clearing at Bemis and is again at the level of the railway. This was the location of the house* of Abel Crawford, " the patriarch of the mountains, "whose grave was very near the present site of the railroad station. Mt. Crawford is the only monument to his memory. Just below Bemis, the road crosses Nancy's Brook. Directly ahead are Mt. Tremont and Bartlett Haystack. 64.3 Crossing Sawyer's River, the road turns to the east along the base of the Haystack, with Hart's Ledge across the river on the left. 66.1 On the right is Sawyer's Rock, a great boulder by the road which marks the end of the Notch. When the hunter Nash reported his discovery of the Notch to Governor Wentworth, he was promised AMONG THE MOUNTAINS 157 a grant of land if he would bring a horse through the pass. This he undertook to do with the aid of a fellow hunter named Sawyer. The horse was brought through with great difficulty, being lowered over cliffs and driven through the river by the men until they emerged at this point. Then Sawyer broke his rum bottle against the ledge which he named Sawyer's Rock. The valley now broadens and the forest is suc- ceeded by cultivated fields. 68. 1 Bartlett is the first village met with on emerging from the mountains, and in fact is the first en- countered on this route for nearly fifty miles. Looking backward as the road continues down the open valley, the great dome of Mt. Carrigain is seen directly behind. Before us, Mt. Kearsarge at North Conway, with a house on its summit comes into view. Pass- ing on the left, the cliffs of Mt. Stanton, shrunken almost into insignificance by comparison with the grandeur of the scenery of the Notch, the route crosses the Saco and reaches 74.1 fGlen Station. Here the road to Jackson and Gorham leaves to the left (see map, pages 144-5). The road now turns again toward the south and passing through Lower Bartlett and f Intervale reaches 80. t North Conway (Elevation 520 feet). The route to Portland is described on pages 170-178. To Portsmouth on pages 179-200. •^ AMONG THE MOUNTAINS 159 (2) North Conway to Plymouth, 80 Miles Reverse of previous section i, page 148. See map, page 144 As Plymouth stands in the western gateway to the mountains, so North Conway occupies the eastern portal. Unlike Plymouth it abounds in hotels and boarding houses, and is the summer resort of hun- dreds who enjoy the life of the summer colony, and who are here within reach of all and in sight of many of the mountains. The immediate vicinity offers many points of interest, most of which are more attractive before one has made the tour of the mountains than if visited after such a trip. o. North Conway. Proceeding directly through the village, the route reaches 1.9 t Intervale (Elevation 546 feet). This is the junction of the Boston & Maine and Maine Central railroads. The chief hotel is The Intervale. Directly across the tracks at the station, are the Cathedral Woods. From the road at this point is obtained one of the best views of the Presidential Mountains and other peaks to the north. Mount Washington is distant about sixteen miles, air line. Soon after leaving Intervale, the route turns to the west, passes the road to Jackson on the right, where the yellow markers turn. We now pick up and follow the red markers past Glen Station on the left. Ahead on the right are the cliffs of Mt. Stanton (1725 feet), and directly ahead is the dome of Mt. Carrigain (4650 feet). 160 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 1 1.9 Passing through Bartlett, with the dome of Carrigain still before us, at the right is Hart's Ledge, and on the left the peaks of Bartlett Hay- stack. 13.9 Sawyer's Rock is close by the road on the left. Crawford Notch was discovered about 1773 from Cherry Mountain near Fabyan^s, by a hunter named Nash. Upon reporting his discovery to Governor Wentworth, Nash was offered a grant of land if he would show that he was able to bring a horse through the pass. With the aid of a companion named Sawyer, the horse was in fact hauled through, being lowered over cliffs and driven through the river by the men, until they emerged at this point. Then Sawyer broke his rum bottle against the ledge which he named Sawyer's Rock. 15.7 Rounding Hart's Ledge and crossing Sawyer's river at an elevation of i,oob feet, the road passes through a beautiful forest with glimpses of the mountains on either side. 17.7 Crossing Nancy's Brook, the clearing at Bemis is reached. Mt. Crawford is on the right. The grave of Abel Crawford, "the patriarch of the mountains, " was very near the present site of Bemis station, and his house was just beyond. For the next two miles, the Frankenstein cliffs tower upon the left, and occasional glimpses are obtained of Mt. Washington ahead and at the right. 23.8 At the Willey House clearing, the elevation is 1,450 feet. Directly ahead is Mt. Willard, the guardian of the portal of the Notch; on the right AMONG THE MOUNTAINS 161 is Mt. Webster and on the left Mt. Willey, still scored by the slide which in 1826 destroyed the Willey family. From this point there is a constant ascent, culminating in Tug-of-War Hill, at the summit of which is the gateway of the Notch. During this climb, Silver Cascade and Flume Cascade are passed on the right, and the cliffs of Mt. Willard are on the left. 26.5 Passing through the "Gateway," the road reaches the f Crawford House, where the elevation is 1893 feet. Looking backward from here, Mt. Webster closes the Gateway and the Elephant's Head is seen, the trunk almost dipped in Saco Lake. This is the height of land, the waters beyond Crawford House flowing into the Ammonusuc and thence into the Connecticut River. Beyond Crawford's, are constantly broadening views of the Presidential Range. 29.4 Near the f Mount Pleasant House (Bretton Woods) on the right is a memorial chapel and on the left a fountain-memorial to Samuel J. and John F. Anderson who as officials of the Portland & Ogdensburg RR, were largely instrumental in opening this section to the traveler. Pnes/denfidl Ran^e from Breffon Wood6 AMONG THE MOUNTAINS 163 29.7 The Mount Washington, the largest and finest resort hotel of New England is at the right, five- eighths of a mile. Proceeding west from fFabyan's, and passing the fWhite Mountain House, the three Sugar Loaves are on the left and Cherry Mountain on the right. It was from Cherry Mountain that the hunter, Nash, discovered Crawford Notch. 31.9 Following the Ammonusuc River, the head- waters of which are in Lake Tear of the Clouds, high up on Mt. Washington, the lower falls of the river are seen on the left. 35.1 At fTwin Mountain House, the route turns to the left, crosses and leaves the Ammonusuc and follows closely the 1,400 foot line of elevation to the Profile Golf Links. The route straight ahead at this point runs to Maple- wood and Bethlehem, the Sinclair Hotel. Soon after passing Twin Mountain House Station, the Franconia peaks appear ahead and at the left, led by the Twin Mountains, and Mt. Garfield or Haystack, and followed by Mt. La- fayette and the scalloped topped Lafayette Range extending to and including Flume Mountain. 40.8 Crossing Gale River, a branch of the Am- monusuc, and the narrow gauge 42.5 Profile & Franconia Notch railroad, the route reaches 45.2 Profile Golf Links. Here is an attractive view across the valley, in which lies the village of Franconia, to Sugar Hill. 164 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS From this point there is a sharp rise of nearly 500 feet, which is not apparent to the sight, but which sometimes causes the tourist to wonder whether or not some unknown trouble has devel- oped in his motor. 45.5 Soon after leaving the Golf Links, Mt. Lafay- ette (5,270 feet) is seen straight ahead. 47.8 The route now skirts the shores of Echo Lake with Artist's Bluff rising directly above on the right. The echoes obtained under favorable con- ditions from the boat house on the lake are man- ifold and wonderful. From the top of Artist's Bluff is an attractive view. Across the lake is the rounded head of Eagle Cliff, an offshoot of Mt. Lafayette, and at the right ahead is Cannon Mountain, which obtains its name from the rocky semblance to a piece of artillery which may be seen upon its summit. 48.5 t Profile House (Elevation 1,950 feet). Here is another parting of the waters. The outlet of Echo Lake flows into the Connecticut, while just beyond the hotel is Profile Lake, from which flows the infant Pemigewasset. Across this latter lake from the pavilion by the roadside, is the view of the Great Stone Face — The Profile — on Cannon Mountain. Whether seen in the morning as the sun first lights up the Old Man's Face, or as the afternoon shadows deepen the stem features, or as he peers through enfold- ing clouds, there is nothing more impressive than this sharply chiselled face of stone. AMONG THE MOUNTAINS 16& To many visitors the situation at Franconia Notch seems shut in and overborne by the moun- tains which rise so closely about, but to those who once fall within the spell of the place there seems to be nothing in the mountains equally attractive. A little below the foot of Profile Lake the great ledges of Cannon Mountain are seen at the right. Franconia Notch is much less in extent than Crawford's, but contains more famous natural wonders. 51.6 As the route descends through the forest along the upper waters of the Pemigewasset, The Basin, an immense bowl hollowed out by the action of the river is by the roadside on the right. A great rock in the shape of a human foot projects into the basin. As there is a rather sharp incline of the road at this point, the driver should be prepared for the stop. 54 t Flume House (Elevation 1,500 feet). At this point a pleasant path at the left, above the stables, leads (^ mile) to the Pool, a great basin worn a hundred feet deep through the rocks. Here also a road at the left, below the stables, leads to the entrance to the Flume. From the hotel is an attractive view down the widening valley toward Plymouth. Seen from the piazza, the mountains of the Lafayette Range present roughly a lay figure of Washington, Mt. Liberty forming his head and Mt. Lincoln his feet. The descent from this point is sharp and long. 166 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS On the left is Flume Mountain with its slide- scarred sides and beyond are the more rounded Coolidge Mountains, Big and Little. Around the base of these mountains comes in the East Branch of the Pemigewasset, the headwaters of which are on Mt. Willey and in the tangle of mountains which lie between the two Notches. 58. When approaching North Woodstock, as the road to Deer Park Hotel leaves to the left, is a Reservation of the Appalachian Mountain Club, on the right. 59. t North Woodstock (Elevation 900 feet). Upon running through the village the route does not cross the river, but keeping straight ahead passes the Soldiers' monument, on the left. On the east side of the river is seen the village of Fairview. The route now follows the open valley of the Pemigewasset, which by the addition of the East Branch and other feeders has greatly increased in size. During this portion of the trip there are many attractive views as the route passes through the villages of Woodstock, West Thornton, Thornton and West Campton. Particularly is this true of the scene from a hill (73.8) which pushes out into Fran con /a Mrs. from Campfor? ///7/s AMONG THE MOUNTAINS 167 the valley below West Campton, where the last broad view is had of the Franconia Hills. From this point also is a view to the east up the valley of Mad River toward Waterville, including Sandwich Dome, Tri-pyramid and Tecumseh. West Ossipee on the Portsmouth route is scarcely more than twenty miles distant directly east. 78. Livermore Falls was formerly attractive, but has been spoiled by the manufactories. 79.4 Crossing Baker River, which here swells the Pemigewasset, the route enters 80. Plymouth (Elevation 475 feet). A right turn on High street leads to Lake Sunapee and Springfield, Mass., see Chapter X, page 218. Straight ahead is the route to Boston via Concord, Chapter IX, page 201. The Ascent of Mt. Willard by "burro." pq IX The Return from the Hills North Conway to Portland and Portsmouth, 117.7 Miles North Conway to Portsmouth and Boston, 152.5 Miles Plymouth to Boston, 138.2 Miles Reverse of route described in Chapter VI and VII The least interesting part of a trip to a region like the White Mountains is the return. The face of the country seems fiat and uninteresting, the city streets appear to be more congested than usual and less attractive; and the chief point of interest is frequently the home which lies at the end of the journey. For these reasons, a return by way of the shore, which substitutes scenes of a widely different type for those which have been met with in the mountains, is better calculated to please than that which continues over the inland highways. Of the three routes which are included within the limits of this chapter, that by way of Portland offers most of the sea ; that by way of Portsmouth combines something of the shore with the best of roads ; and the third, that from Plymouth, is as pleasant a route as could well be found if it could be separated from the inevitable comparison with the scenery of the moun- tains. 169 170 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS North Conway to Portland and Portsmouth, 117.7 Miles Reverse of route described on pages 135-146 o. North Conway. Running south through the village, the road follows the valley of the Saco River. The Rattlesnake Range is on the left and the Ledges and Moat Mountain on the right. 2.5 Leaving the direct road to Portsmouth, the route bears to the left and follows the river valley around the base of the Rattlesnake Range. At the extremity of these mountains are the quarries at Redstone. 4.4 Crossing the river, the route turns to the left and passes through Conway Centre. 8.8 Crossing the State line, the road enters Maine. 10.4 Fryeburg. This is a pleasant village located in a broad intervale of the Saco. The route passes directly through the main street and bears to the right on a State road. II. On the left is Jockey Cap and on the right LovelPs Pond, where, in 1725, Capt. John Lovell, the great Indian fighter, was killed. In the battle which took place on the shores of the pond, the great chief Paugus was also killed. 13.6 The road again crosses the Saco River and ascends to East Fryeburg (16.4). Ahead is Pleasant Mountain, around which the road passes on its way to Bridge ton. 20. The road descends and at the foot of Mt. Pleasant crosses Moose Pond by a two-parted causeway. THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 171 21.5 On the right is Beaver Pond. On the left is Highland Lake, at the foot of which the route turns to the right and enters 25.3 Bridgeton. At the Soldiers' monument, the route bears to the left, down grade. This town is located on Long Lake, the first of a series of lakes and rivers through which the steamers of the Sebago Lake line run. 26. The route turns to the right at Lower Bridgeton and crosses the little Bridgeton & Saco River rail- road, the gauge of which (2 feet) is the narrowest used on any railroad in the country. We now follow the general course of Long Lake (at the left), which is about fourteen miles in length. 34.3 At the lower end of the lake is Naples. Here the road turns to the left across the bridge between Long Lake and the Bay of Naples and then turns to the right up-grade. 35.6 A little beyond the top of the hill, the road to the left leads to fPoland Spring, while our route keeps straight on toward the shores of Sebago Lake. (See map, page 172.) Between the Bay of Naples and Sebago Lake runs the Songo River, a narrow stream which is famed for its beauty. 36.5 The route crosses Crooked River which feeds the Songo. Sebago Lake now lies at the right and there are several views across its waters in the next few miles, although most of them look across Jordan Bay to Raymond Neck. Sebago is about fourteen miles long and eleven miles wide. 172 iviJi .^.' a Mr. ' lJ^^>J X—'^^ 1 Spring ^Gloucesten South Casc^Sp"^*'*, ^o'MilJil ^ymond SEBAGO LAKE Jordan Bay Richville Sebag^ Lake. ^tandish \ i© 1915 Henry Mac Nair ^^ J Jort.h 7ra^ iGray Cumberlahc >enter/ j:^ Falmoutl /V ionb Deering I ' PORTLAND-POLAND SPRING DETOUR estbrool To Portsmouth THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 173 39.7 On the left is Thomas Pond, one of the favorite resorts of Nathaniel Hawthorne in his boyhood, which was spent in this vicinity. At the outlet of the pond is a large flat rock from which he liked to fish, and which is still called Nat's Rock. The Hawthorne house was a little at the right on the road leading out upon Raymond Neck and is now used as a church. Near the lower end of the Neck are Frye's Rocks, which rise about seventy feet from the water and are painted with a reproduction of scenes said to have been originally placed on the face of the cliffs by the Indians. Here it was that Captain Frye, pursued by the savages, leaped from the top of the rocks to the water and swam to the nearby island which received his name. 43. Passing through the town of Raymond, the route keeps around to the right along the general course of the lake shore, but soon leaves the lake and passes through a long stretch of sparsely settled country, in which are the villages of North Windham (48.4) and Windham Centre. 50.2 The route crosses Pleasant River, and passes 56. Highland Lake Post Office. 59.2 At the crossing of the Presumpscott River, which is the outlet of Sebago Lake, Riverton Park is on the left. 61. At Morrill's, the route from Poland Spring comes in from the left. Crossing the railroad here and again ^t Woodford's, the route enters 63.0 t Portland (Pop. 58,500). Entering the city on Forest avenue, the route proceeds directly to the business center. 174 //V w^ ^ yC^V^lo.u.e^o* r j/ u C) \2 ] K S j^/ r^ ^ A-/ rJ ^ ^ "^^ • N ^ 1© 1915 Henry MacNairl To Portsmouth LOWER MAINE COAST THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 175 64. Upon reaching Congress street, the direct through route turns to the right and at the Long- fellow Monument, turns to the left on Pine street. The Lafayette Hotel is one block south on Congress street. Having run for an hour through a rather uninteresting stretch of country, we should be ready to enjoy some of the interesting features of Portland, which are described on page 139. Upon returning to the center of the cit}^, we take our departure from the Longfellow Monument at the corner of Pine street (64.0). 64.4 At Vaughan street we turn to the left. A little at the left is Williston Church, the birthplace of the Christian Endeavor movement. 64.8 At the end of Vaughan street, the route turns to the right down grade and crosses the bridge over Fore River. The route now follows the trolley line through West Scarboro and Scarboro to 78.3 Saco. At the Soldiers' monument the route bears to the right and crosses the Saco River which we last crossed at Fryeburg. This is practically the mouth of the river and the end of the log drives which have their origin in and about the White Mountains. The falls of the Saco at this place furnish power for much manufacturing. The river here forms the boundary line between the cities of Saco and Biddeford, which together have a population of 23,500. The route runs straight through Biddeford, passing the Weber hospital on the right. Biddeford Pool is some eight or nine miles off the route at the left, reached through Pool street. 176 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 85.2 A prominent road at the left leads to fKenne- bunkport. (See map, page 174 for this de- tour.) Crossing the Kennebunk River, the route passes directly through 88.4 Kennebunk and immediately crosses the Mousam River. After crossing Moreland River and coming within the confines of Wells, which is a long, straggling town, the route affords many views of the sea. Wells River, which is a sort of lagoon with a narrow entrance from the sea, separates Wells Beach from the mainland. 94.3 On the left is a boulder monument which commemorates the defence of the garrison at this spot, June 9-1 1, 1692, whereby 400 French and Indians were resisted and Wells remained the easternmost town in the Province not destroyed by the enemy. 98.5 fOgunquit is the resort of many artists. Keeping to the right* in the village, we soon come in sight of Mt. Agamenticus, on the right. While this hill has no great elevation (675 feet), yet by reason of its location near the shore, it offers a wide and beautiful view in every direction. The range is from Cape Elizabeth near Portland to Cape Ann in Massachusetts and northward, to the White Mountains. The stunmit of the mountain is the legendary burial place of St. Aspenquid, an Indian prophet. *The left fork at Ogunquit takes one over a winding drive along the ocean, past The Passaconaway Inn at York Cliffs, rejoining the main route at York Beach. THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 177 1 01.5 Cape Neddick village. From this point the most direct road is that straight ahead. Our route tiims to the left in order to visit 104.2 fYork Beach. After passing through the business center of this resort, the route turns to the right across the base of Cape Neddick and reaches the long curve of the beach. At the extremity of the cape is the Nubble with its light-house. Directly off shore is Boon Island light. After running along the beach, the road passes Trinity Church. 108. At York Village, the direct route from York Beach comes in from the right. Here, just beyond the Soldiers* monument on the left, is the old York Jail, which was built in 1653 and has been preserved at the suggestion of William Dean Howells. The jail contains an interesting collec- tion of relics. Sir Ferdinand Gorges, who had a grant covering all the country in this vicinity, intended York to become a great city, and under the name of Gorgeana it was given the first city charter granted in America. 1 1 1.5 Crossing York River, the route keeps away from the shore line and nms straight across country. As it approaches Kittery some of the buildings of Portsmouth Navy Yard are seen at the left.- It was here that the conferences were held which ter- minated the Russo-Japanese war. 1 16.5 Kittery. Here the route crosses the old toll bridge over the Piscataqua River and enters New 178 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Hampshire. The large mills on the right were built for the manufacture of paper, but have never been used. Down the harbor the Navy Yard is seen and beyond it Seavey^s Island, where many Spanish War captives were quartered. Upon leaving the bridge, the road bears to the left and, entering f Portsmouth, runs directly to 1 1 7.7 Market square at the center of the city. Some of the points of interest in this quaint old place are described on page 185. For the continuation of this route to Boston, see page 187. Crossing a branch of Pine River at Ossipee THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 179 (2) North Conway to Portsmouth (84.5) and Boston, 152.5 Miles Described in reverse direction on pages 1 16-133 o. fNorth Conway (Elevation 520 feet). The main road from this point to Portsmouth is plainly marked by the yellow bands which distinguish this section of the New Hampshire State highway. Running south on the main street of this popular summer resort, the route follows for a few miles the valley of the Saco River. On the right are the ledges — Cathedral and White Horse, at the base of the latter of which lies the Echo Lake of the eastern side of the mountains. Beyond the ledges rises the broad bulk of Moat Mountain. On the left is the Rattlesnake Range, around the base of which the Saco River and . the route to Portland find their way into Maine. The Redstone Quarries are at the extremity of this range. Crossing the Saco just below the mouth of Swift River, the route enters 5.5 Conway. As the route turns to the right into the main street, Mt. Chocorua is directly ahead, the half-way house on its shoulder standing out clearly against the sky. 6.5 At the lower end of the village, Pequawket Pond is on the left. 7.5 Ascending the grade towards lona Post Office the tip of Mt. Shaw in the Ossipee Range is seen at the left. Directly ahead 180 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 8.2 the rugged peak of Mt. Chocorua appears, 10.5 On the left glimpses are had of Knowles' Pond. 15. The road skirts the shores of Chocorua Lake. 16.3 Upon ascending the grade after leaving the lake, from the rustic gateway at the right is obtained the best-known view of Chocorua. 16.4 Passing the Inn on the left, the road descends to Chocorua village. Here the Chocorua River is crossed. 19.2 Upon passing Moore's Pond on the left, a view of the Ossipee Range with Mt. Shaw overtopping the lesser heights, is followed by a view of the Bearcamp Mountains. 21.5 West Ossipee (Whittier station). On the knoll at the right, opposite the garages, stood the hotel where the poet Whittier spent many summers. Among the willows, below the hotel, where the road from Centre Harbor comes in from the right, was a favorite seat of the poet. The scene of "Among the Hills," "Sunset on the Bearcamp," and other poems, is laid in this region. The road now bears to the left diagonally across the valley of the Bearcamp River. The Bearcamp Mountains are directly ahead. Behind at the right, is the Sandwich Range from Chocorua to Whiteface. Crossing the Bearcamp River and turning sharply to the left the road passes through the village of Ossipee Valley. 24.6 From the railroad crossing at the end of the village Mt. Washington lies directly up the track, at the left. THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 181 To visit Ossipee Lake, which lies one-half mile to the left, take the road at the top of the hill. 25.6 Just after crossing the small stream known as Lovell's River, in the open field at the left is a mound supposed to be the burial place of the Indians killed in the battle with Lovell's band of Indian fighters in 1725. LovelPs Fort was located at the farther end of the field. The route passes through Centre Ossipee (Moun- tain view station), crosses a branch of the Pine River, and ascends a hill from which the view be- hind includes Ossipee Lake and the Sandwich Mountains. The rounded summit on the left, below the lake is Green Mountain. 31.5 On the left is Duncan Lake, which was much frequented by President Cleveland for its bass fishing, and on the shores of which he had a cottage. 33. Crossing the railroad at f Ossipee, the route passes through the village bearing a little to the left at the center. The large buildings seen over at the right belong to the county farm. 35.7 The route now skirts the base of Little White- face Mountain, and reaches another elevation from which the view behind again includes the Sandwich Range and, under favorable conditions, the President al Range. ^^ V ^c< Looking North from Ossipee 182 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 36.5 Descending a steep grade, at the foot of which is a railroad crossing, the road reaches 37.5 North Wakefield (Matthews station). Be- yond this village is another ascent at the top of which the elevation is about 1,000 feet, or nearly twice that of North Conway. 40. From this ridge the Belknap Mountains on the southern side of Lake Winnepesaukee are seen at the right. 42.7 The road now overlooks the village of Wake- field and descending, crosses the railroad at the station and passes through the town. A sharp descent with a cross road at its foot brings us into 43. Sanbornville. The road keeps straight ahead and passes through 48. Union. A mile beyond the village the route turns sharply to the right, the branch straight ahead leading to Milton Mills. From the elevated Plummer's Ridge, is an at- tractive view which includes the Teneriffe Moun- tains on the right. At the end of the ridge the road descends to the Milton Ponds on which are many camps and large ice-harvesting plants. The rugged and lonesome building which stands on the left at the corner of the roads part way down the hill is the Town Hall of Milton. 54.3 At the end of the village of Milton is a dangerous railroad crossing. 57.5 In North Rochester (Hayes Crossing), there is a manufactory of leather, or fibre-board. THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 183 The stream seen on the left at this point forms the boundary between New Hampshire and Maine. Running now across a sandy pine plain the road enters the city of 62. Rochester (Pop. 8,800). At the center is a mon- ument, on the right, to Rev. Amos Main, "the first settled minister of the Congregational Church in the Province of Rochester, 173 7-1 760." Bearing to the left on the main street, the route leaves the city and ascends a long hill from the summit of which is an excellent view in all direc- tions. On a clear day Mt. Washington may be seen behind on the left. Ahead is the low rounded summit of Mt. Agamenticus at York, Me. A little at the right is the observatory on Garrison Hill in the center of Dover, and farther at the right the hills on the shores of Pawtuckaway Pond in Nottingham. 67. Upon descending the hill the road turns to the left, leaving the direct sandy road to Dover, to follow the State road which runs by way of 69. Somersworth. The route does not reach the center of the city, but upon meeting the trolley line doubles sharply back to the right and follows the tracks to 72.8 Dover (Pop. 13,000). This is the oldest place in New Hampshire, having been settled in 1623. Passing the hospital, on the left, the route runs directly through the city, crossing the railroad. 73.8 In the central square is a memorial fountain and just below are the great Cocheco Cotton Mills, on the Cocheco River. 184 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS At the end of the city the route bears to the left, leaving the trolley line. Upon reaching the top of the ridge which runs through the narrow tongue of land forming Dover Point, the Piscataqua River forming the boundary between New Hampshire and Maine is on the left and on the right is Great Bay. This is a shallow tidal basin some six miles in length and situated about the same number of miles from the open sea. The entrance to the Bay is from the Piscataqua River. 80. Crossing the toll bridge over the entrance to Great Bay, through which the tide runs with the velocity of a mill race, the route passes from Dover Point to Newington. To avoid Portsmouth. Just beyond Newington station a road to the right is frequently used for through travel, as it saves two miles and avoids the city of Portsmouth. This route runs through the village of Newington; passes the upper end of Great Bay, runs through the center of Green- land; passes to the right of the church at North Hampton and rejoins the road by way of Portsmouth at the railroad bridge midway between North Hampton and Hampton. The distance across country is twelve miles. The main route follows the State road. 83.3 On the outskirts of Portsmouth, at a prominent fork, on the right, is the Frank Jones estate. 84.5 t Portsmouth (Pop. 11,000). The yellow mark- ers of the State road will lead one directly through the city, but a slight detour will enable the tourist to see a few of the many points of interest in this quaint "old town by the sea." THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 185 After crossing the railroad near the station, the route enters Vaughan street. No. 32 is the house to which Daniel Webster brought his bride, in 1808. At the end of the street, instead of turning to the right on Congress street with the markers, turn to the left into Market square at the center of the city. On the left is the Atheneum. Keeping straight through the square into Daniels street, we reach the City Hall on the left at the corner of Chapel. Across Chapel street stands the Warner house, a three storied brick building of Colonial type. Built in 1 7 12, of material brought largely from Holland, it was the first brick house in Portsmouth. The lightning rod is said to have been installed under the personal supervision of Benjamin Franklin. Turning to the left on Chapel, at the top of the grade stands St. John's church. This church, formerly known as Queen's chapel, is open to visitors and retains a distinct flavor of the old seaport. Among its valued possessions are two mahogany chairs presented by Queen Caroline in 1732 and a curious font of porphyritic marble, which was brought from Senegal, Africa. Pursuant to the terms of a bequest made by a Colonial parishoner, loaves of bread are distributed from this church at the close of the service every Sunday, for the benefit of the poor of the parish. In the churchyard is the tomb of Governor Went worth and others of interest. Returning on Chapel street, continue straight through to Court street and there turn to the right. On the left is the "Nutter" house (marked), the birthplace of Thomas Bailey Aldrich, and the house of which he wrote in "The Story of a Bad Boy." The house is now the Aldrich Memorial, and is open to visitors in summer. At the corner of Court and Pleasant streets is the Gov. Langdon house on the left, which Washington con- sidered the finest private house in town. Here were enter- tained Louis Phillippe, afterward King of France, Lafayette, John Hancock and many other notables. 186 To Ossipee To Portland To Boston THE NEW HAMPSHIRE COAST THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 187 ^ Turn to the right on Pleasant street and at the post office turn to the left on State. After passing the Rockingham Hotel, the house on the corner was the residence of Admiral John Paul Jones, who fitted out both the "Ranger" and the "America" in this port. 85.5 Here we rejoin the through route, turning to the left on Middle street. From this point there are two main routes toward Boston, one following the shore and the other running straight across country. The shore road which leaves at the left on Miller street is that followed by the State markers, and passes Rye Beach, with an excellent hotel and many attractive cot- tages, Hampton and Salisbury Beaches and affords many fine sea views. It is, however, six miles longer than the direct route, is frequently very rough at one place or another, and has many sharp turns. It is necessary, more- over, in many places to leave the road in order to obtain the view, either by reason of the low grade of the road or the intervention of rows of cottages. A better way to Rye Beach is shown on the map opposite. The route to New Castle Island and The Wentworth is also indicated thereon. Here the Russo-Japanese Peace Commissioners made headquarters. The direct route keeps straight ahead. 89.8 On the left are the extensive grounds of the "Winchester" farm. 92. The road now runs over the shoulder of Break- fast Hih, Greenland, where in 1696 a band of warring Indians was surprised as they were eating breakfast, and defeated. At the second railroad crossing the short cut from Newington bridge comes in from the right. At 96.2 Hampton the road passes the hotel, on the left. 188 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 96.5 A little beyond, at a sharp turn to the right is the house of General Jonathan Moulton, who, having more money than some of his neighbors, was reputed to have obtained it by the sale of his soul to the Evil One. As the story goes, the General, who was to receive as much gold as could be contained in his top-boots, placed his boots in the fireplace and the money was poured down one of the great chimneys which still overtop the house. 97.5 At the left the line of cottages at Hampton Beach is seen across the marshes. 98.3 Hampton Falls. On the right is a monument erected by the State to Meshach Weare, who was the first President of New Hampshire. 98.4 Just beyond, on the left, opposite an old brick building is "Elmfield," where the poet Whittier was a frequent visitor. Hampton Falls merges almost imperceptibly into Seabrook, an extended village chiefly famous for its automobile traps. 1 01. 4 At the end of Seabrook is the hamlet of Smithtown, a trolley junction. Here the road keeps straight through at the left of the green. 1 01. 5 Just beyond Smithtown the road crosses the line between New Hampshire and Massachusetts, the boundary stone being on the right. 104. At Salisbury church with a memorial clock, the shore route comes in from the left. The road here keeps straight through ; the right- hand trolley line leads to Amesbury. 190 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 1 06. The spires of Newburyport are now seen and the road soon crosses the Merrimack River. The last sharp spire at the left is that of the Whitefield Church, beneath the pulpit of which are the bones of the great preacher. Two miles up the river is Chain-bridge, the first suspension bridge in America, and on the island beyond is the residence of Harriet Prescott Spofford. 106.2 fNewburyport (Pop. 15,000). Turning to the left at the end of the bridge, the route at once turns to the right on Market street, which is followed to its end at High. Here it turns to the left and con- tinues on High street. This is one of the fine streets of New England. On the right is the "Mall," at the end of which is a bronze statue of Washington b}^ J. Q. A.Ward, who also made the "Washington" which stands before the sub-treasury on Wall street, New York. At the left on State street is the old Wolfe Tavern. On Federal street is the church beneath the pulpit of which are the bones of George Whitefield, the eminent Calvanistic preacher. At the rear of the church is the birthplace of William Lloyd Garrison. 107.4 After crossing over a railroad the route passes a group of old houses. On the left is the Tappan house, and opposite the Ilsley house, both built before the Revolution. Just beyond, the last house before reaching the church (Newbury Old- town) is the Coffin house, where was born Joshua Coffin, one of the twelve persons who, with Garrison, formed the first anti-slavery society in New England. Whittier's lines, "To my old school- master," are addressed to him. THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 191 Just beyond the church is the house of Henfy Sewall, the grandson of Samuel Sewall, of early Colonial fame. This house was built about 1678. 107.8 On the green at the right is a Soldier's monu- ment and a marker commemorating the encamp- m^ent here of a part of the troops of Benedict Arnold on the expedition to Quebec. The ancient house on the left is the Short place, built in 1700, in which lives (19 14) a true daughter of the Revolution. Rounding the shoulder of Oldtown Hill, the road passes, on the right, the 1 10.3 Lower Green, on which is an unusually attractive monument erected to the memory of the first settlers of Newbury who came up Parker River and landed near this spot. 1 14.7 Passing through the quiet old town of Rowley, the seat of Dummer Academy, the route reaches 118. flpswich. Here lived John Winthrop the younger, the first Governor of Connecticut, before his removal to New London in 1645. The route follows the street railway line through the center of the town. 1 18.3 The first bridge over the Ipswich River which it is believed is incorporated in the present struc- ture, was built about 1650. 1 18.6 The tablet on the left as the route turns to the right at the green, marks the site of an early church. 1 18.8 At the end of the green a little brook crosses the road. On the culvert carrying this stream is the following inscription: "This road from Rowley to Salem was laid out in the year 1640 by order of 192 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS * the General Court. It was then known as the Bay Road and was the first road so authorized." 1 19.2 As the trolley leaves to the left, on the road to t Gloucester, the route keeps straight ahead. For Gloucester and Cape Ann consult map on page 49. 1 19.9 The inscription on Appleton's bridge recites the various stages of its construction. 120.2 On the right is an old mile-stone. 12 1.2 At the left on the outskirts of Hamilton is the residence of Congressman Gardner. The farm buildings are dark red. The residence is at a con- siderable distance and scarcely visible from the road. 122.2 A little beyond a prominent three-comers where the route turns sharply to the right, is the residence of George von L. Meyer, who has held many offices in national affairs. The house is on the right, of terra-cotta, and with an Italian garden. 122.6 Hamilton church. Here preached Rev. Manasseh Cutler, who was an early explorer of the White Mountains and was largely instrumental in fostering the immigration which settled Ohio at Marietta. 123. 1 On the outskirts of the village a little above the road at the right is the former home of Gail Hamilton (Mary A. Dodge) , author of many works, including the "Biography of James G. Blaine.'^ Just beyond this on the left are the polo grounds of the Myopia Club. 123.7 The railroad is crossed at Hamilton-and- Wenham station. The route follows the trolley line from here to Salem. THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 193 A little beyond, on the left is the first of a series of three mile-stones which are located about half a mile apart and were erected in 1710. The second post is opposite Wenham church (124.8). 125.3 At the cemetery, on the left, is the third mile- stone, this one bearing an inscription appropriate to its location: "Job 30:23. For I know that Thou wilt bring me to death and to the house appointed for all living." 125.5 At the right on the shore of Wenham Lake is a boulder monument marking the site of a hill from which the Rev. Hugh Peters preached yi 1636 a sermon from the text, "At Enon near to Salem because there was much water there." The early name of Wenham was Enon. Wenham Lake is the source of early shipments of ice to England. Thackery says: "Everybody (of the genteel world, of course) has the same every- thing in London. You see the same coats, the same dinners, the same boiled fowls . . . and the same lumps of Wenham Lake ice." 127.3 North Beverly station is on the left. At the brick fire station where the route turns to the left is a tablet on the right marking the site of the first cotton mill in America. This was visited by Washington in 1789. Beverly (Pop. 18,600) and the shore to the east- ward as far as Cape Ann has long been the resort of people of wealth. Henry C. Frick has a mag- nificent residence about three miles from the center of the city, and there are countless other summer 194 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS homes along the shore. During the administration of President Taft, Beverly was the simimer capital. On the hills at the left are Salem Reservoir and Beverly Hospital. At the right are the great factories of the United Shoe Machinery Co., 1,220 feet long. 128. A little beyond the first railroad crossing, on a slight elevation at the right is the Balch house, erected prior to 1648. 128.6 At the second railroad crossing the most direct route is to turn to the right on Rantoul street, passing^ the post office on the left and railroad sta- tion at the right. 130. 1 Just beyond the end of Rantoul street, the route reaches the long bridge, over an arm of the sea, which connects Beverly and Salem. 130.4 At the left is the shore resort, Salem Willows, and the islands of the harbor. Up the stream is seen the State Asylum for the insane, in Danvers. Salem (Pop. 43,700). The route through this interesting city is rough and crooked. (See map opposite.) Continuing on Bridge street, one block beyond the point where the trolley leaves to the left, the route turns to the left and at the end of the street, with a boulder monument to the Soldiers of the Civil War on the left, bears to the right along Washington square (common). 13 1.4 At the Statue of Roger Conant, an early settler, turn to the right, passing on the left the Nathaniel Ward house erected in 1684, which stands in the grounds of the Essex Institute. THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 195 13 1.5 At the next corner turn to the left, on St. Peter's street, St. Peter's Church being on the corner at the right. At the next comer turn to the right on the narrow Essex (main) street, and im- mediately to the left on Central street which, merg- ing into Lafayette, takes the tourist out of the city. On the left at the turn into Essex street is the East India Marine Hall and Museum with excellent collections covering a wide range of subjects. The locations of other points of interest in the city are indicated on the accompanying map of a part of the city, as follows: 2. The Witch, or Roger Williams house on Essex street. 3. The Court house, in which are shown the witch pins. 4. Birthplace of Nathaniel Hawthorne, 27 Union street. 5. The Custom House, where Hawthorne worked. 6. The House of the Seven Gables. BEST ROUTE THROUGH SALEM, MASS ^.fi&i B.&M.Sta.AJ [ I '3 ha /?6 of' 196 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 13 1.6 Upon passing the statue of Father Matthew, the "Apostle of Temperance," the route enters Lafayette street, and passes through the heart of the territory devastated by the great fire of 1914. 132.5 At the yellow brick buildings of the State Normal school the route bears to the right. The road at the left leads to Marblehead and Swamp- scott, passing Hotel Preston at Beach Bluff and the New Ocean House at Swampscott. (See map, page 113, for this pleasant detour, which should be used if the direct Paradise road be closed for repairs during 19 15.) Leaving the trolley line the route bears to the left on Paradise road. Upon passing beneath the railroad at the entrance to t Swampscott a very pleasant variant to the direct route is had by bearing immediately to the left and continuing straight on over the Lynn Shore drive. On the left are the shores of Swampscott, and ahead is Nahant, connected with the mainland by the narrow isthmus which carries Nahant Beach. Before reaching this neck the route turns sharply to the right and rejoins the direct route at the open triangle (136.9). The direct route runs a little back from the shore following the trolley line which is met just beyond Swampscott, into Lynn (Pop. 89,000). This is a great center for the manufacture of women's shoes. 136.9 At an open triangle on the left, is the build- ing of the Lynn Women's Clubs. Just beyond this, as the main street curves to the right, the route keeps straight ahead to the station (with clock) of the Boston & Revere Beach railroad. THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 197 J 3 7 . 3 At this point the route bears to the left ona wide roadway which leads at West Lynn into the Revere Beach boulevard. At the right are the works of the General Electric Company. At the left across Lynn Harbor, is Nahant. 140. After crossing Saugus River, with the wide sweep of Revere Beach stretching out ahead, the tower of Boston Custom House is seen a little at the right. The sharp bluff at the left is Win- throp Highlands beyond which may be seen the south shore of Boston Harbor. The brick building on the right is the State Bath-house. On certain days in the summer the beach and its vicinity is so thronged with visitors that auto- mobiHng is almost impossible and is prohibited during stated hours. A road intended to relieve this situation has been constructed at the right, from Saugus River. At the end of the beach the boulevard turns toward the west. 143.5 Just beyond the bridge crossing the rail- road at Revere station, on the left is a tablet marking the site of a Revolutionary engagement in which Israel Putnam won the first commission as Major General issued by the Continental Con- gress. On Powder-horn Hill at the left is the Soldiers* Home, Chelsea. 145. Upon rounding the shoulder of this hill the view directly ahead includes Chelsea, Bunker Hill Monument, and the U. S. Marine Hospital on another hill. Passing through a part of Everett the route 198 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS crosses the marshes and reaches the end of this botilevard. Directly ahead is Tufts College on College Hill. 147.3 Here the road to Boston turns to the left. The direct route to Worcester, avoiding the city, turns to the right after crossing the trolley line. (See below.) Proceeding toward Boston the road crosses Wellington bridge, which was destroyed by fire in 19 14, and passing 148.3 Broadway Park, on the left, crosses Broadway and ascends the hill on Walnut street. At the foot of the hill is Union square, Somerville, through which the route passes, turning to the right on Prospect street just beyond the railroad bridge. At the end of Prospect (Central square, Cam- bridge), we turn to the left on Massachusetts avenue, and after crossing the Charles River, enter Boston. A left turn on Commonwealth avenue, and right on Dartmouth street, brings us to Copley square (152.0). For Newport and New London see page 310. For Plymouth and Cape Cod Canal see page 299. To Avoid Boston The following connection between the North Shore and the main route to Springfield, entirely avoids Boston and its city approaches and thus makes an agreeable through route, particularly as the roads are excellent throughout. 147,3 -^t the end of the Revere Beach boulevard, the route crosses the trolley line and turns to the right on the Medford boulevard. 147.7 Leaving this boulevard by the first road at THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 199 the left, the route follows Riverside street to Med- ford. 148.4 Upon passing the brickyards on this road, the plantation house of Matthew Cradock, the first Governor of Massachusetts Bay Colony, is on the right. This is one of the first brick houses built in New England and is in fact one of the oldest houses now standing. It was built in 1634. Its thick walls were intended as a defence against the Indians, and the small round windows were loop- holes. 1 49. 1 Upon entering Medford square, the quaint Seccomb house, now used for city offices, stands on the further corner of the square. Here the route turns sharply to the left, across Mystic River, and immediately turns to the right on the Mystic Valley parkway. After passing beneath the railroad, and crossing Boston avenue, the route bears to the right, fol- lowing closely the Hne of the old Middlesex Canal. At the left is an extensive market-gardening section. 1 5 1.2 Following the parkway to its end, the route makes a "hairpin" curve to the left and enters Arlington. This town is full of historic points con- nected with the Revolution, and especially with the battle of Lexington. The road we are now on was that followed by Paul Revere on his famous ride to arouse the countryside of the approach of the British troops. 1 5 1.8 On reaching Massachusetts avenue, at the center of the town we pass the old Cooper Tavern 200 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS on the corner at the left, and turn to the right on the avenue. This was the route of the British troops on the way to Lexington. The road to Greenfield and the Mohawk Trail continues on Massachusetts avenue. (See page 230.) Our route turns to the left at the church, on Pleasant street. On the left is Spy Pond (152.5). At No. 152 Pleasant street was the home of J. T. Trowbridge, the writer. The house stands back from the road as it curves slightly to the left, and the number is marked in the sidewalk. 153.8 Skirting another portion of the market- gardening section, the road passes through Bel- mont, bearing to the right. 154.8 At Waverly the McLean Asylum for the in- sane is passed on the right and the Beaver Brook Reservation on the left. Here the route turns sharply to the left at a dangerous corner. In the reservation are the Waverly oaks, famous trees of great size and age. From this point the route keeps straight through on the main road and after passing beneath the railroad, enters 156.9 Waltham. Here, as the route keeps straight through the center of the city, the great watch works are on the left (157.4), but are not clearly seen. 158. Beyond Waltham the route bears to the left and, crossing the railroad at Stony Brook station, enters Weston (160.8), where it joins the route from Boston to Springfield. (See page 256.) THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 201 (3) Plymouth, N. H., to Boston, 138.2 Miles Reverse of route described on pages 102-115. o. Plymouth (Elevation 473 feet). Running south on the main street, the route follows the valley of the Pemigewasset River to Bridgewater station. 4.2 Crossing the river, the road soon reaches 5.8 Ashland, and turns sharply to the left in the center of the village. On the right is Little Squam Lake, the shores of which are followed to 9.9 fHolderness. Passing White Oak Pond on the right, the route soon reaches Squam Lake, on the left, beyond which rises the bulk of Red Hill. Around the shores of Squam Lake are many fine summer places and across the lake, at the foot of Red Hill, is the location of the Summer Engineering school of Harvard University. (See map, pages 208-209, for complete lay- out of routes in the Winnepesaukee District.) 18. Meredith. Passing directly through the town the route crosses the railroad at the station and at once begins the ascent of a long, steep hill. 20.3 The climb brings its own compensation, for at the summit is one of the most beautiful views in this region. Lake Winnepesaukee, with its many islands is spread out below, hedged about with a multitude of hills. Looking backward the peaks of the Sandwich Range are seen. White- face and Passaconaway rising over the top of Red Hill and Chocorua a little to the right. Nearer at hand, on the northern border of the lake are the 202 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Ossipee Mountains, the highest peak of which is Mt. Shaw. South of the lake He the Belknap Mountains, which are better seen as the route descends the hill. 2 2.S Coming down from the heights, upon reach- ing the level of Lake Winnepesaukee (500 feet), the village of Weirs is on the left. This is a populous summer resort and the place at which connection is made from the railroad to points on the lake by steamer. 22.6 When crossing the outlet of the lake, on the left is Endicott^s Rock, covered by a canopy which is surmounted by the figure of an Indian looking away over the lake. At this point also was the fish weir where the Indians were accustomed to take great numbers of shad. Endicott's Rock was marked in 1652 by surveyors sent out by John Endicott, Governor of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, to determine the location of the head- waters of the Merrimack River. It was understood that the boundary of the colony ran with the course of the river and three miles distant from it. Endicott therefore claimed that Massachusetts extended to a point three miles beyond this rock, which was marked as the headwaters of the river. All that remains of this peculiar boundary line is the portion between Lowell and the sea. The rock bears the governor's name, the initials of the surveyors and commissioners and the date. A large modern tablet behind the rock, within the canopy, recites the story of the expedition. Just beyond the outlet, which bears the name THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 203 of Winnepesaukee River, the route turns to the right along the shores of Long Bay. The road straight ahead leads along the shores of Winnepesaukee Lake with excellent views and many hills to t Alton Bay, and thence to Rochester. (See map, page 208.) Passing through Lakeport, the route reaches Laconia, a manufacturing town containing large car works. Here the route turns sharply to the left around the Inn and passing through the main street turns to the right, and runs along the shores of Lake Winnesquam. 31.8 While crossing between this lake and San- bornton Bay at Winnesquam station the last general view of the Sandwich Range is obtained at the right. Over Mt. Israel, which seems to be the left-hand section of Red Hill, is Sandwich Dome and the shde-scarred Tri-pyramid. Above Red Hill rise Whiteface and Passaconaway, while still farther to the right is the rounded Toad Back or Paugus Mountain and the sharp peak of Chocorua. /^ Ossipee / RecfH>ll \ Sd/?c/^/c/? /^dn^e from l^/nnepesaakee Ouf/et 3 8 . Tilton. When approaching Tilton the Memorial Arch of the Tilton family is seen crowning one of the hills at the center of the town. This arch is 204 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS fifty-five feet in height. On the opposite hill, directly above the route on the right, at the first railroad crossing, is the Tilton residence, and also Tilton Seminary (with a clock in its tower). Besides the great memorial arch, Tilton is embellished by two overgrown parks, one at each end of the town, and a number of statues, among which is that of the Indian Chieftain S quantum, which stands at the railroad station. 40.3 At the top of the grade beyond Tilton is a tablet on the right calling attention to a stone mortar used by the Indians and early settlers of Sanbornton for grinding corn, etc. This samp mortar is contained in the first boulder or out- cropping of ledge immediately behind the tablet, and is well worth a visit. Descending through Franklin Falls, the route crosses the Pemigewasset River near the point where, by its junction with the Winnepesaukee, the Merrimack is formed. 41.9 Franklin. The route here doubles sharply upon itself, the road straight ahead leading to Bristol and Newfound Lake. 44.4 At Webster Place station on the left, is an Orphans' Home and School. The original house of this group is Elm Farm, one of the homes of Daniel Webster from 1800 until the time of his death in 1852. In front of the house is a boulder bearing an appropriately inscribed tablet. A few miles at the right of the route is Salisbury, the birthplace of the great statesman. THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 205 47.5 At Gerrish is the Merrimack County farm. 51. Boscawen. This is a pleasant old village lying quietly in the river valley. 51.5 Somewhat below the center of the town, on the left, are two tablets; one marking the site of the old law office of Daniel Webster and the other the birthplace of General John Dix, who began his career at the age of fourteen as a soldier in the war of 18 12. As Secretary of the Treasury under President Buchanan he sent to New Orleans the famous message, "If anyone attempts to haul down the American flag, shoot him on the spot." 51.9 Behind the last house in the village, on the right, is a boulder marking the site of the Old Fort which was 100 feet square and was built of hewn logs. As the river furnished the best pathway for the Indians, this fort, like some of those which were erected along the Connecticut valley, was placed on a bench which dropped sharply to the river bottom. 53.7 Penacook. On the left is an old Inn, bearing the date 1787. 54.1 Here the road crosses the Contoocook River at the junction of which with the Merrimack, a short distance at the left, is Dustings Island, where, in 1697, Hannah Dustin, who had been taken captive by the Indians at Haverhill, Mass., killed her captors and escaped by way of the river. 58.6 Passing the State Prison on the right, the road enters 60.0 t Concord (Pop. 21,000). This is the capital of New Hampshire. At the center of the city, on the 206 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS right, is the Capitol) surrounded by other public buildings. On the right is the State Library and behind it the Post Office, City Hall and Historical building. Opposite is the Eagle Hotel. In front of the State House, the grounds of which are entered through a Soldiers* memorial archway, are statues of General Stark, Daniel Webster, and John P. Hale, who was the first avowed anti- slavery member of the United States Senate. At the left of the archway is the newly erected statue of Franklin Pierce. Behind the State House is a statue of Com. George H. Perkins, whom Farragut called "the bravest man that ever trod the deck of a ship." A mile west of the center of the city on Pleasant street is Pleasant View, the former home of Mrs. Mary Baker Eddy, and a little beyond, at the right, is a monument marking the site of an Indian massacre in 1747. Farther out on the same road is St. Paul's school for boys. Some distance below the State House, at 52 South Main street, is the former home of President Pierce, on the right. The house is marked by a stone on the lawn and a companion stone in the same grounds, marks the site of an old garrison house. 61.5 At the lower end of the city the route bears to the left at a prominent fork and crosses the Merrimack. At the fork of the roads a little be- yond, on the right, is a tablet marking the site of another garrison house. THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 207 65.2 Pembroke. Near the end of this village on the left, is an old mile-post bearing the date 1793 and the letters D. K., which were undoubtedly the initials of the keeper of the tavern before which it stood. The hitching ring in this stone is an unusual feature. From the elevated ridge on which^ the road is now running the view behind on the right, includes Mt. Kearsarge. 67.3 At Suncook the route follows the trolley line through the town, crossing the Suncook River at the foot of a rather steep grade. At the right is seen Hooksett Pinnacle, surmounted by a tower; and the town of t Hooksett located at the falls of the Merrimack, which bear the same name. 68.9 On the left at the brow of a sharp decline, is an almost undecipherable mile-stone bearing the date 1790. 70.3 On the left, opposite a road which comes in at the right is another mile-stone, this one well pre- served, and giving the distance to Haverhill as thirty-two, and to Chester, sixteen miles. 70.5 A little beyond, on the left, is St. Mary's Roman Catholic school for girls. Manchester (Pop. 70,000), is the largest city m the State and a great cotton milling center, the mills standing in soHd ranks along the river which has a fall of about fifty feet. This was a great fishing resort of the Indians, as multitudes of shad, salmon, alewives and eels, fairly crowded each other in their passage up the falls "so that you could not put your hand in without 208 To North Conway To North Cc Center ^^=^ |@ 1915 Henry Mac Nair| To Concord LAKE WINNIP To North Conway 209 Moultonvill Mt. Shaw ^ * Dm Hole DISTRICT To Portsmouth 210 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS touching some of them." The early settlers of the region were accustomed also to congregate here in considerable numbers during the run of the fish. The early name of the town was Derrjrfield, and eels were called "Derryfield beef" on account of the number used for food in this vicinity. It is said that "eels enough were salted down in a single year to be equal to 300 head of cattle." So much for our fish story. Returning now to the route, we enter the city on Webster street, and may turn to the left either on Chestnut street, opposite the fire engine house, or on Elm, which is the main street of the city. The latter is wide, and not often overcrowded. 79. A little below the business center we turn to the right on Granite street and, passing the railroad station, on the left, have a glimpse of some of the mills at the right. The route here crosses the Merrimack and a block beyond turns to the left on Second street, which leads us out of the city. The only village in the next ten miles is that of Reed^s Ferry. A little west of this place is the birthplace of Walter Kittredge, the author of "Tenting on the Old Camp Ground." 89.4 At Merrimack the road crosses the Souhegan River. 91.9 Thornton's Ferry. At the crossroads, on the left is a monument erected by the State to Dr. Matthew Thornton, a signer of the Declaration of Independence. 94.4 On the right is the pumping station for the THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 211 water system of Nashua. As the route enters the city it passes through a part of its best residential section. 97.0 Nashua (Pop. 26,000). Opposite the park on the right which contains the soldiers' monument, is the Public Library. By reason of a quarrel over the location of the town hall, this portion of the city was once separated from that immediately beyond, and incorporated under the name of Nashville, but after a separate existence of eleven years the breach was healed and the two parts of the town were re- united under a city charter. The route passes the "City" railroad station, on the left, and crossing Nashua River, continues straight through the city. The larger manu- factories of cotton, shoes, etc., are located a little east of the business center, along the railroads and Nashua River. A change in the line of relative elevations is apparent in this region. Instead of coming in from the northward, the Souhegan River enters from the west, the Nashua rises in the vicinity of Mt. Wachusett thirty miles to the south- west, and the Concord, which enters at Lowell, comes directly from the south. Below Nashua the course of the Merrimack itself changes from south to east. 97.5 On the left is the John M. Hunt Home for aged couples. The territory now occupied by Nashua was formerly included in a large tract of land which was chartered as Dunstable, a name now apphed only to a portion of the tract in Massachusetts. 98. 5 Soon after leaving the city, opposite the end of 212 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS the street car line, is a tablet marking the site of the first church in Dunstable. 100.5. ^^ the old cemetery on the right, is a monu- ment to a second church, and a little beyond on the left is a tablet to a third of these old Dunstable churches. I o 1 . 5 The boundary stone marking the State line is on the right, and the route enters Massachusetts. 103.6 At Tyngsboro the route crosses the Merri- mack River, and turning to the right, follows the Merrimack boulevard along the banks of the river to Lowell. 104.5 About a mile below the bridge there may be seen on the right, across the river, a large yellow house sitting on the high land back from the road. This is the Jonathan Tyng estate. Here Hannah Dustin stopped on her return from Indian captivity in 1697. In the lane leading to the house stands a boulder monument to the memory of Wannalancet, the last sachem of the Merrimack Indians, who died here in 1696. 105.6 Tyng's Island, on the right, which is the home of the Vesper Country Club of Lowell, was the favorite dwelling place of Wannalancet and his father Passaconaway. These important chieftains among the Indians of New Hampshire were always faithful friends of the Colonists. Their names are , perpetuated in two peaks of the Sandwich Range. 107. On the opposite side of the river is North Chelmsford. THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 213 no. Passing, on the right, the dam at Pawtucket Falls the road turns to the right at the top of a slight grade, opposite the yellow brick buildings of the Lowell Textile school, and crossing the Merri- mack, enters no. 2 Lowell (Pop. 106,000). This is a great cotton manufacturing city, the water power for use of the mills being obtained from the falls of the Merri- mack, which has here a perpendicular descent of thirty-four feet. The water is carried to the mills by canals which have a total length of several miles. More than 20,000 horsepower is developed by the water. The first canal built at this point was intended to facilitate the navigation of the river. This was in 1792. The next year the great Middlesex canal was begun, which extended to Boston and was superseded by the railroad. The first mills were established here about 1823. The mill girls of Lowell, about 1840, attracted inter- national attention by their high standards of living and intellectual attainments. Their condition contrasted so favorably with that of the mill girls of Europe that Charles Dickens, who visited them in 1842, wrote: "I solemnly de- clare that from all the crowd I saw in the different factories that day, I cannot recall or separate one young face that gave me a painful impression." And again, "They have got up among themselves a periodical called the Lowell Offering, a repository of original articles written ex- clusively by the females employed in the mills, which is duly printed, published and sold; and whereof I brought away from Lowell four hundred good solid pages, which I have read from beginning to end." The Lowell Offering was regularly published for a number of years and in- cluded among its contributors Lucy Larcom, who as a girl was a worker in one of the mills. 214 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS After crossing the river, the route continues straight ahead to the center of the business portion of the city, first on Moody street, and then on Merrimack. II0.8 At the junction of these streets on the right stands the City Hall, before which is the statue "Victory" and a monument to the memory of Charles A. Taylor and his companions, the first to fall in defence of the Union at Baltimore, April 19, 1861. Here one of the canals supplying power, to the mills is crossed and just beyond on the left is St. Anne's Episcopal church, erected in 1824, "A monument to the religious purpose which animated the first manufacturers." This was the first church edifice erected in Lowell. 111. Turning sharply to the right with a branch trolley line on Central street, the route bears to the left at an open triangle and immediately turns to the left on Church street. 112. Upon crossing the Concord River, the route turns to the right on High street and at the end of the street turns to the left and follows the trolley line out of the city. 1 12.4 When making this last turn, Fort Hill park is directly ahead. 1 12.7 On the right is the Shedd playground. 1 14.3 At Wamesit, which was the Indian name of this region, and of the tribe which inhabited it, the road crosses the railroad. After passing through the village of THE RETURN FROM THE HILLS 215 1 1 6. 1 Tewksbury, the State almshouse is seen over at the left. 121. On the right is Silver Lake. 12 1.6 Just beyond Wilmington Junction the route bears to the right and winds across the country to North Woburn and 126.7 Woburn. On the square here, at the right, under glass, is a ventilator cowl of the Battleship Maine, a boulder monument to soldiers and sailors of the Spanish War and the Civil War monument. 129. Winchester. This is an attractive residential town pleasantly located at the head of the Mystic Lakes, along the borders of which runs a fine boule- vard. The route crosses the railroad at the station and follows the trolley Hne. On the left is the city farm of Medford. 13 1. 5 Upon entering Medford the road passes the Armory, on the right. Opposite this is the Public Library which occupies the house of Thacher Magoun, a noted Medford shipbuilder who learned his trade in the yard where the Constitution was built. This house was built by Magoun as much like one of his ships as possible, all of the rooms save two of high stud, which were intended for the social purposes of his wife, being made like a ship's cabins. Notwithstanding the changes necessary to adapt the house to the purposes of the Library, the unique character of the construction is evident upon a glance within the doors of the building. Just beyond this, on the left, a glance between the buildings on the street will reveal a fine stone 216 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS garrison house, and on the corner of the square immediately beyond stands the quaint old Seccomb house, now used for municipal offices. 131 . 8 The route turns to the right across the bridge over Mystic River and a little beyond bears to the left on Mystic avenue, which is unattractive but direct. 133.9 -^t Broadway Park we turn to the right along the Park, cross Broadway and ascend the hill ahead on Walnut street. 135. Turning to the left at the foot of the hill we run through Union stjuare, Somerville, and just beyond the center of the concrete railroad bridge turn halfway to the right on Prospect street. 136. 1 At Central square, Cambridge, the route turns to the left on Massachusetts avenue. Crossing Charles River, by Harvard bridge, we enter f Boston. A left turn on Commonwealth avenue and a right on Dartmouth street brings us to Copley square (138.2). For New York via Springfield, see page 256. For New York via Newport and the shore, see page 310. The Farragut at Rye Beach One of New Hampshire's Giant Elms Down the Connecticut Plymouth, N. H., to Springfield, 169 Miles Reverse of route described in Chapter II The first section of this route takes us back to road conditions which prevailed throughout the greater part of New England until within a very few years. From Plymouth to the region of Sunapee Lake the route passes over roads which are "worked" rather than "improved." There are some advantages, however, in riding occasionally on these ordinary country roads. Not only is the value of the State highway work more clearly impressed upon us, but in getting away from the beaten paths we gain new experiences and find fresh scenes. 217 218 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Plymouth, N. H., to Springfield, 169 Miles Reverse of route described on pages 36-47 o. Plymouth. The route runs west from the center of the town on High street, up-grade, with the hotel on the left. i.o At the top of the hill we may either turn to the left, with signs, or keep straight ahead into the valley of Baker River. 3.5 Pursuing the latter course, the route turns to the left at a prominent fork, and follows up the side valley toward the south. 8.7 Upon ascending a long grade. Newfound Lake lies ahead at the right. This lake is about nine miles long and has an elevation of 650 feet. 16.5 After following the shores of the lake for about seven miles, the road turns sharply to the right at its foot and follows Newfound River to the outskirts of Bristol. This river is only two miles in length but is very swift. 17.3 Turning to the right off the main road at the entrance to Bristol, the route crosses the river and runs over a shoulder of Round Top Hill. 19.0 Upon reaching the valley of Smith River the route turns to the right and follows the stream closely, crossing it three times, to 26.0 Elmwood. The route turns to the right across the outlet of Bog Pond, which is at the left. 27.4 Danbury. Crossing the railroad at the station the route turns to the left and running south DOWN THE CONNECTICUT 219 follows the railroad through South D anbury to West Andover. On this portion of the route, Mt. Kearsarge (elevation 2,900 feet), lies directly ahead. 35.7 Just beyond West Andover the route turns to the west, and passes through Wilmot Flats. 38.9 Passing a small pond on the right, the road reaches the village of Elkins, and turns to the left along the shores of Pleasant Pond. 40.3 Ascending a long grade the route turns to the right at a four-corners and continues to ascend. At the top of the grade is a broad view at the right over Pleasant Pond to the hills of Wilmot and the mountains beyond. The elevation at this point is about 1,400 feet. 42.0 The road now descends to the village of New London and turns to the right on the main street, passing Colby Academy on the right. 42.6 Turning to the left and then to the right, the road soon overlooks Little Sunapee or Twin Lake. The road at the left (45.0) leads to Soo Nipi Park Lodge 47.1 On the right is Otter Pond, along the shores of which the roads runs to George*s Mills. Here the head of Lake Sunapee is passed at the left. 49.6 After passing a road on the left leading to The Granliden, the only general view of Lake Sunapee obtained from this route, is had at the left. While descending the hill toward Sunapee Harbor, the Sunapee and Lempster Mountains are 220 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS seen ahead, the former rising directly from the foot of the lake. 50.6 At Sunapee Harbor (the village and an arm of the lake are a short distance at the left) the road turns to the right along the Sugar River, and pass- ing through the village of Guild, enters 56.6 fNewport (Pop. 4,000; elevation 850 feet). Here the route reaches the Western boulevard, one of the roads which the State of New Hampshire is constructing and maintaining between the White Mountains and the lower borders of the State. The distinguishing color of this route is blue and the markings are very clear between Newport and the Massachusetts State line sixty miles below, even on the two or three stretches where the im- provement of the road is not completed. At the center of the town the route turns to the left on Main street, crosses Sugar River and ascends its south branch. 61.4 Passing through Mill Village, the route follows the stream toward its headwaters. 64. On the left are the Lempster Mountains, with elevations of from 1,800 to 2,000 feet, and this range is prominently in the view for the next five miles. 72. On the left is Trout Pond. Between this point and Stone Pond is the height of land on this portion of the route. The waters of Trout Pond flow north into the Sugar River and thence into the Connecticut, while Stone Pond feeds the Ashuelot River, the waters of which reach the Connecticut DOWN THE CONNECTICUT 221 some fifty miles below the mouth of the Sugar River. 76.6 At Marlow the route turns to the left, crosses a mill pond and follows the valley of the upper Ashuelot to 83.5 Gilsum. Here again the route turns to the left in the village and soon leaves the river, which is finally crossed by a stone arch (84.2).^ A little at the right, down the stream, at this point, is a boulder known as the DeviPs Chair. Part way up the following grade, on the left, is a mica mine (84.7). The road now descends a long grade to fKeene (Pop. 10,000). This attractive city, with its wide, well-shaded streets and well-kept places, is the commercial center of southwestern New Hampshire. 91.6 At the entrance to the city the county jail is passed at an open triangle, on the right. 92.1 The route passes Central square with the Soldiers' monument on the right, crosses the rail- road at the station, and turns to the right on Winchester street (92.6). At this turn, the State Normal School is on the left. After crossing the Ashuelot River, the course of which is followed for about twenty miles, excellent views are had on the left of Mt. Monadnock. 97.8 West Swanzey. The route does not pass through the center of the village. To visit the former home of Denman Thompson {^4 mile), turn to the left through a covered bridge and at 222 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS the first corner curve to the right. The Thompson place is on the right, with smooth paving before it. Denman Thompson's grave may be seen from the road, in the cemetery at the left, near the house. After leaving West Swanzey, the hills straight ahead are the Ashuelot Mountains (1,400 feet). The high tension electric wires seen at various points are the lines of the Connecticut River Power Company. 1 00. 1 Passing through the village of Westporti the route skirts the base of the Ashuelot Moun- tains crosses the outlet of Forest Lake, giving a glimpse of the lake on the left, and enters Win- chester. 105.6 In Winchester square is a memorial church, erected on the site of the adoption of the Universalist creed in 1802, a soldiers' monument and the town hall. The route here turns sharply to the right across the river and immediately to the left. Gen. Leonard Wood was born in one of the houses in the wooden block seen across the river at the left after crossing the bridge. 108.6 Along the river, at Ashuelot village and below, are several manufactories of tissue paper. 1 1 1.6 Hinsdale. At the lower end of the village the route turns to the left across the Ashuelot River. The road straight ahead, up-grade, is the route to Brattleboro, Vt., seven and one-half miles. The plant of the Connecticut River Power Com- pany is in Hinsdale, but is not seen from the route. DOWN THE CONNECTICUT 223 Leaving Hinsdale, the route now enters the valley of the Connecticut River, and the views are wide and pleasing. Ahead are the Northfield hills in Massachusetts, and at the right, across the river, the hills of Vermont. 1 16.6 The New Hampshire-Massachusetts State line is crossed, the monument being on the left. A second stone is in a field on the right. 1 17.6 fNorthfield. The monument at the left on the up-grade at the entrance to fEast Northfield, is erected to Nathaniel Dickinson, killed and scalped by Indians at this spot, 1747. Immediately be- yond, on the left, is an entrance to the grounds of Northfield Seminary (D. L. Moody school for girls). 1 1 7 . 7 The white house on the left near the top of the grade is the D. L. Moody residence, and just above, on the right, is his favorite "Sunset Tree," from which there is a most attractive view. In the ledge in front of the Congregational Church, on the left, is cut this inscription: "Here, July 23, 1748, Aaron Belding was killed and scalped by the Indians." Immediately after passing the church, the Schell mansion "Greytowers," is seen over at the left. The Northfield, over at the left is a large temperance hotel, operated in connection with the Moody schools. After crossing a short bridge into Northfield proper, on the right is a boulder monument marking the site of an early fort. Northfield street, 200 feet wide and lined with four rows of old elms, is one of the finest of 224 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS the many beautiful village streets in New Eng- land. 1 18.6 On the left is the Library and (119.0) the Belcher Memorial Fountain. 1 19.3 On the right is a tablet marking the site of the first settlement of the town in 1672. 1 19.6 The boulder monument on the left at the foot of the street marks the site of a large oak tree beneath which the first religious services in the town were held, 1673. Turning to the right out of Northfield street, Mt. Hermon, the Moody school for boys lies directly ahead across the river. 120.4 Descending a winding grade, the Connecticut is crossed. On the grade up from the river, a road at the left leads to Mt. Hermon school, open to visitors, and commanding a fine view of the Con- necticut valley. The return to the main route is by a road leading through "The Pines." 1 2 1 . 7 When ascending the grade after turning to the left at a prominent three-corners the fine grove known as the Mt. Hermon Pines, may be seen at the left. The route now runs over a gently roll- ing country to 124.9 Bernardston. Turning to the left at the end of the road, with the hotel on the right, the route passes through a prosperous farming country. Entering Greenfield, the square tower at the left is the Poet's Seat, on Rocky Mountain, com- manding a fine view of the valleys of the Connect- icut and Deerfield rivers. The Weldon Hotel is on High street. For the Mohawk Trail to Williamstown, see page 244. DOWN THE CONNECTICUT 225 13 1 .6 t Greenfield is a pleasant town, with a popula- tion of 10,500. Passing straight across Main street, with the Soldiers* monument on the right, the route descends beneath the railroad at the station and, turning left, follows Green River to its confluence with the Deerfield. 132.9 Here, at an unusual collection of bridges the Deerfield River is crossed where it breaks through the hills to join the Connecticut. Be- yond the valley which now opens on the right, rises Arthur's Seat, around which the railroad makes a long detour to the south on its way to the Hoosac tunnel. Deerfield, the scene of many Indian attacks between 1675 ^^^ i709> contains many old houses particularly rich in Colonial doorways, and is the seat of the manufacture of fine basketry and hand- woven fabrics. Many sites on both sides of the streets are marked by tablets. 134,9 At the center of the village, on the green at the right, is the Soldiers' monument, and the site of the "Old Indian House," the stout door of which, hacked by the tomahawks of the Indians, is pre- served in Memorial Hall. Here too, by the road- side, is a brownstone fountain-to-be marking the site of the old fort well. Just beyond the green, a road at^the left leads to the nearby Memorial Hall, which contains remarkable collections of Indian and Colonial relics. Upon leaving the village, the Pocumtuck (Indian name of this region) range of hills is at the left. 226 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 136.5 Mill Village. 137.5 Sugar Loaf Mountain is ahead, on the left. From his headquarters on the southern peak of this mountain King Philip is said to have directed the movements of his warriors in their attacks upon the settlements in the valley below. 138.5 From the overhead railroad crossing at the entrance to South Deerfield, Mt. Tom may be seen directly down the track. 139.4 Here, at Bloody Brook, in September, 1675, Captain Lathrop and his band, "the flower of Essex" (Essex County, Mass.) were ambushed and killed by the Indians. A monument marking the site is on the left, in a small triangle. At the end of the village, with the Lathrop Hotel on the r'ght, the route keeps straight ahead toward Northampton, through a rich farming country carrying heavy crops of tobacco, corn, onions, etc. 142.4 Whateley village is seen at the right, and the Holyoke range of mountains soon comes into view ahead. 148.4 Laurel Park, a Methodist camp-meeting ground, is passed on the right. Here an attractive view to the rear includes the Sugar Loaf peaks and Mt. Toby, with the Connecticut valley be- tween thenf. 149.9 Hatfield village is seen at the left. 1 5 1.3 t Northampton (Pop. 19,500). Upon entering the city, Round Hill, where Jenny Lind spent her honeymoon in 1852, is over at the right. DOWN THE CONNECTICUT 227 On the left, standing a little back from the street, is a yellow brick house bearing a tablet. This is the site of the home of Jonathan Edwards, the great preacher and writer who ministered to the church in Northampton from 1727 to 1750. In front of this house stood the Edwards elm which fell in 1 9 13. The great stump is seen near the street. To visit Smith College (^ mile), turn right on Main street and pass the group of public buildings on the left. The college is on the right at the top of the slight hill. To visit Mt. Holyoke, turn to the left on Main street, under the railroad, and cross the Connecticut to Hadley. The Hockannum ferry at the base of the mountain fur- nishes a picturesque but not altogether desirable route. The view from this mountain, which may be ascended by automobile (10 per cent grades) has often been called the finest in America. Leaving the city and approaching the Mt. Tom Range, Mt. Holyoke with its hotel and passenger elevator is at the left. 153.6 The Ox Bow of the Connecticut, so prominent in the view from Mt. Holyoke, is passed on the right. Skirting the base of the Mt. Tom Range and passing Smith's Ferry and the Holyoke Canoe Club House on the left, the road follows the Connecticut closely, rising with attractive views toward Holyoke. Mt, Tom with its pavilion is seen near at hand, on the right. 158.2 At the entrance to Mt. Tom park, where 228 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS cars arc taken for the ascent of the peak, is Kenil- worth Castle, on the right, commanding a fine view. Passing through the Highlands of fHolyoke, the route avoids the city proper and descending again to the level of the river, follows it closely to Springfield. Holyoke (Pop. 57,700) is the seat of very large manu- factories of paper, etc., power for the operation of which is furnished by the Connecticut River. The water is car- ried by canals in three levels, with a total fall of sixty feet. A new hotel, The Nonotuck, will be opened during the Summer of 1915. 167. West Springfield. At the entrance to the Connecticut River bridge, is the Common in which is a boulder monument marking the site of an encampment of Hessians in the Revolution. Crossing the river the route enters f Springfield, and passing on the left the monument to Spanish War soldiers and the Memorial church, reaches Main street, and the center of the city, (169). The Kimball Hotel is reached by a left turn on Bridge street to Chestnut. The route to Hartford continues on Main street. (See page 265.) The route to Boston turns to the left on State street. (See page 50.) The Connecticut River and Mt. Holyoke The Aspinwall at Lenox, Mass. XI Toward the Berkshires Boston to Greenfield, 98.4 Miles Described in reverse direction in Chapter XV This route across the State furnishes a pleasing variant to those who are familiar with the Post Road and is, moreover, the logical approach from eastern Nev/ England to the Mohawk Trail. The road is neither so uniformly good, nor so easy to follow, as that across the State by way of Wor- cester and Springfield although beyond Fitchburg, both these objections are removed. The ascent of the ridge which crosses central Mas- sachusetts, is made with an almost entire absence of the steep grades which are encountered on the Post Road, although the elevation attained is prac- tically the same. ^ . Not the least interesting feature of the route is its passage through the towns of Lexington and Con- cord, with their unique experiences in war and Uterature. 229 230 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Boston to Greenfield, Mass., 98.4 Miles Described in reverse direction on pages 286-297 o. t Boston, Copley square. Running north on Dart- mouth street the route turns to the left on Common- wealth avenue, or Beacon street, and at Mas- sachusetts avenue turns to the right across Harvard Bridge over Charles River. 1.5 Cambridge (Pop. 105,000). The route con- tinues on Massachusetts avenue, through the city, passing the City Hall, on the right. 3.1 At Harvard square, the main buildings of the university are on the right. The campus is en- closed by a fence which has been given by various graduate classes. The Colonial residence within this enclosure at the Harvard square end was the home of the college presidents for 120 years. The route turns to the right, along the college grounds, and passes the statue of Charles Sumner on the right, at the apex of the subway entrance. On the right also, is a flag pole, which is a memorial of the suffering and fortitude of the men and women of Cambridge during the Revolu- tion. Over at the right beyond the subway entrance are two tablets, one of which marks the birthplace of Oliver Wendell Holmes. On the left is the Common, which was "the muster field where the army of the Revolution had its being." It was also the place of arms of the settlers of 1631, and here the flag of thirteen stripes was first flung to the breeze. TOWARD THE BERKSHIRES 231 A tablet in the Common near the street, marks the spot where, in 1630, stood an ancient oak under which were held Colonial elections. The tree under which it stands, is a scion of the Washington elm. The old tree beneath which Washington took command of the army, is seen across the Common, just in hne with the church. The monument at the further end of the Common is that of John Bridge, an early settler. 4.2 Crossing above the railroad at Cambridge station, the route continues on Massachusetts avenue to 6.5 Arlington. On the right just before reaching the railroad, is the Cooper Tavern, one of the many relics of that day in April, 1775, when the British marched over this road on their way to Lexington, and returned along the same road harrassed on every side by the attacks of the minute-men. Here in the center of Ariington came Paul Revere from Medford, at the right, and from this point our route coincides with that of his famous ride to warn the countryside of the approach^ of the British. Arlington has many tablets marking the events of that momentous day. Continuing through Arlington Heights the route reaches East Lexington, at which point a prom- inent road at the left furnishes the most direct route to Concord. Our route continues through Lexington, passing on the left the Monroe Tavern, sitting a Uttle back from the road. This was the headquarters of Lord Percy when he came with the The "Minute-Man" Statue of Captain John Parker TOWARD THE BERKSHIRES 233 reinforcements to the relief of the regulars who had been worsted in the fight from Concord. • On the right near the junction of Woburn street, at the High School, is a stone cannon marking the spot where Lord Percy planted a field piece which held the minute-men in check. After passing the Town Hall, on the right, we come in sight of 1 1.5 The statue of Capt. John Parker, who com- manded the Lexington men. This statue, which surmounts the Hayes memorial fountain, stands at the apex of the Common facing the line of British advance. This was Lexington battlefield where the British regulars first fired upon the minute-men, who were drawn up to confront them. Across the street, at the right, is the Buckman Tavern, which was the headquarters of the minute- men after they had been aroused by Paul Revere on the night before the battle. On the Common, besides the statue already mentioned, are Pulpit Rock, which marks the site of the first three meeting-houses in the town, a boulder monument marking the line of the minute- men, and the ivy-covered monument which is probably the oldest memorial of the Revolution in the country. Behind the Pulpit is an elm which was planted by General Grant at the centennial celebration of the battle. Somewhat off the route, on Hancock street which bears to the right near the boulder monument, is the house where Samuel Adams and John Hancock were sleeping when aroused by Revere. Here also was living at the time Dorothy Quincy, who soon afterward became Han- cock's wife. 234 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 1 1.5 From the Minute-man, the route bears to the left, with the common on the right, and at the end of the common continues to the left on the road to Concord. 12.9 As the route turns to the right on the road from East Lexington, is a tablet on the left, marking the place where a stand was made on the retreat from Concord. The present State road follows in general, but not in particular, the route of Paul Revere as well as that of the British advance and retreat. When about two o'clock in the morning Revere' reached the point marked by a large pyramidal monument on the right, he was halted by a British patrol. Two companions escaped, but Revere, after leap- ing the wall and attempting to reach the woods, was overtaken, captured and carried back to Lexington, where he was soon released. 17. t Concord, At the entrance to Concord, as a prominent road comes in from the right, is Mer- riam's Corner. At this point began the running fight in which the Provincials took the initiative and which only ended at Lexington Common, on the arrival of Lord Percy with reinforcements. Here we leave Revolutionary matters for a space, and pass a line of more modern places of interest. The first of these, on the right, is the birthplace of the Concord grape, marked by an appropriately embellished tablet. Next to this is "The Wayside/' the home of Nathaniel Haw- thorne during his second residence in Concord. The square tower of this house was his study, TOWARD THE BERKSHIRES 235 which was entered by a trap-door. Upon this, it is said, Hawthorne placed his chair when writ- ing, and thus effectively secured seclusion. Next beyond is the ''Orchard House," where the Alcott family lived for many years and where Louisa Alcott wrote "Little Women." Just be- yond this up the hill is the Hillside Chapel, in which were held the sessions of the School of Philosophy. A Httle beyond this, on the left, where the road from Lincoln comes in, is the house in which Ralph Waldo Emerson Hved, and where he died in 1882. 18.3 Just beyond the church, on the left, at the corner of the square, is the Wright Tavern which was Major Pitcairn's headquarters on the day of the Concord fight. The route does not pass the scene of that fight, Hawthorne's Manse, Sleepy Hollow Cemetery nor the haunts of Thoreau, but turning to the left at Wright Tavern, leaves the town by Main street, passing the Library, on the left. Following the trolley line across Sudbury River, the road turns sharply to the left under the railroad (ig-s)- 20.4 Over at the right is the State Reformatory. Passing the station at Concord Junction, on the right, the route bears to the left and follows the trolley Hne to Maynard. A corner of the township of Acton is crossed, and here the route passes extensive powder works on both sides of the road. 24. Upon entering Maynard, the route turns to the right across the Assabet River and immediately to the left through the town, again crossing the Assabet and the railroad. 236 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 27. Passing through the pleasant and quiet village of Stowe, the route next reaches the similar village of Bolton, six miles beyond. Keeping straight through this village and avoiding all roads leading to Clinton, the route bears to the right at the sign "Both ways to Lancaster" and at the second fork, with signs bears again to the right. This is called the Seven Bridge road and runs through a part of Lancaster. The road crosses the Nashua River and the railroad. 37.2 Just beyond this, on the right stands the Beaman oak, marked with a tablet This is said to be the largest oak tree in Massachusetts. The circumference at the base is twenty-nine feet, and at five feet above the ground is eighteen feet five inches. Its height is seventy-five feet and its spread is about the same. Emerson's "Trees and Shrubs of Massachusetts," published about 1840, gives the measurement of this tree at the height of three feet from the ground, as seventeen feet in circumference. Here Gameliel Beaman settled in 1659. The route bears to the right beyond the oak and passing through North Village (Lancaster) crosses the North Branch of the Nashua River and con- tinues along the broad valley of the river. 41. The view ahead includes the town of Leominster in the valley of the Nashua River. The hills beyond form a range which reaches its greatest elevation in Mt. Wachusett, which is not far dis- tant but is not seen from this portion of the route. 43. Leominster (Pop. 17,500). Near the center TOWARD THE BERKSHIRES 237 of the town, we turn to the right on Central street, and at the Soldiers' monument bear to the right on Main street. 44.4 At West Leominster station, the boulder monument seen on the right beyond the tracks is erected in memory of the gift of the park in which it is located, as a common. Continuing with the railroad and trolley Hne the road passes South Fitchburg station and entering Fitchburg, crosses over the railroad at the station and turns to the left on Main street. 47.6 Fitchburg (Pop. 37>8oo). At the left of the city is Rollstone Hill, on which are immense stone quarries. Passing City Hall on the left the route bears to the left at a small park and crossing an exceedingly unattractive branch of the Nashua River, follows the river valley for about two miles. A prominent road at the right (50.) leads to tKeene. 50.9 The route now turns to the right and begins in earnest the ascent of the great ridge which divides the waters of central Massachusetts. The elevation at this turn is 600 feet. Passing beneath the railroad near Westminster station (on the right) the road continues through the town of Westminster while the railroad makes a long sharp loop to the north to overcome the constantly rising grade. 54.2 At the left across a reservoir, is one of the few views obtained on this route of Mt. Wachusett, with its summit house. 238 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 54.8 Westminster (Elevation 1,000 feet). The road passes directly through the town and continues across a rolling country to 58.8 South Gardner. Here a prominent road at the left leads through the pleasant village of tTempleton, which is situated at the top of the ridge with an elevation of about 1,200 feet, and is the site of the Templeton Inn. This, however, is not an improved road. The better route follows the example of the railroad in making a slight detour which eliminates all but the ordinary grades of a rolling country. t Gardner (Pop. 14,700; elevation 1,100 feet). This is a great chair manufacturing town and a sample of its chief product is displayed, in mammoth size, at the railroad station. 59. Upon entering the town, the route crosses two railroads at grade and a third by an overhead bridge. Here it turns sharply to the left and upon passing the railroad station, turns again to the left across the tracks. Upon crossing a spur track it turns to the right among some of the chair factories. 60.4 At an open square it turns to the left and at the fork just beyond, bears to the right. These rather complicated directions take us through Gardner, beyond which the route traverses the crest of the highlands through an agreeable but not especially interesting country. 65.4 At Baldwinville (elevation 1,100 feet), after passing under two railroads the route turns sharply to the left at the center of the village, and upon crossing Otter River, bears to the right. TOWARD THE BERKSHIRES 239 74. Athol (Pop. 8,500). There is no uncertainty in this town about the direction of the grade. The elevation falls 200 feet within the limits of the town proper. 74.9 At the foot of this descent we reach the valley of Miller's River, the course of which is followed for fifteen miles. Passing through the town of 79.8 Orange, which is the seat of several well-known manufactories, the road continues along the pleasant river valley through the villages of West Orange (Wendell station), Erving, and Farley. The scenery along this section of the road is ex- tremely picturesque, the mountains rising sharply from the river to what appear to be very con- siderable heights, although as a matter of fact, the highest of these elevations is scarcely greater than that of the road over which we have passed. The elevation of the river itself is about 500 feet. Beyond Farley, the road rises above the the river but soon makes a rapid descent to 90.8 Miller's Falls (Elevation 300 feet). The route here turns to the left across the railroad and imme- diately left again, over the river. 9 1 . 1 Keeping now around to the right, it soon enters the State road to 95. Turner's Falls. Here the Connecticut River makes several sharp turns through the hills and descends about forty feet, furnishing an abundant water power, which is used by the large manu- factories of paper, etc., which have been estabhshed here. The first dam and canal, intended merely To Manchester, Vt. Tdcawasick < Pond East^ , Nassau '-/Riders W''^^ West Lebanoo-, Layn^ille ^Id qha^tham ill^ ^N.w^Lebano."Jf^^t 240 Yill^e o}^'est THE U 7*0 Lenox, see pat KSHIRES 241 242 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS to aid in the navigation of the river, were built in 1792. At this place in 1676, Captain Turner, with a force of Colonial soldiers attacked a power- ful band of King Philip's Indians, and after destroy- ing 250 of them with the loss of but one man, was himself defeated by a rally of the savages, and was killed with many of his men. Upon reaching the brow of the hill overlooking the town, a suspension bridge across the Connect- icut is seen at the right. The route descends straight through the town and at the end of the street, turns to the left. 95.6 At the foot of the grade the route turns to the right and crosses the canal, railroad and suspension bridge over the Connecticut River. The road now climbs a long grade and affords a wide and beautiful view across the valley of the Connecticut. Upon turning away from the river, the road skirts the base of Rocky Mountain, on the left, at the lower end of which is a square observa- tion tower — the Poet's Seat. On the right is the hospital. At the end of the street, the route turns to the right around a Colonial house of brick in the Southern style, and enters 98.4 t Greenfield. The Weldon is on High street. At the center of this pleasant town, the road at the right leads up the Connecticut Valley to Brattleboro or Keene, and thence to the White Mountains. (See page 40.) The road at the left, at the small park, runs to Deerfield, Northampton and Springfield. (See page 225.) The road to the Mohawk Trail runs straight ahead on Main street. (See page 244.) XII The Mohawk Trail Greenfield to Springfield via Williamstown, 125 Miles The reverse description is in Chapter XIV For complete layout of routes through the Berkshires see maps on pages 240-1 and 272-3, The year 19 14 was marked in New England auto- mobiling circles by the opening of a new route for the Mohawk Trail over Hoosac Mountain. Although the new road is well nigh beyond com- parison with the old, and its practicabiHty is proven by the fact that hundreds of cars have passed over it in a single day, the trip should not be undertaken with the idea that it is a level highway Uke those of the Connecticut valley in Massachusetts or the "sandpapered" roads of the eastern part of the State. It is, however, one of the most attractive tours which can be made in New England territory, com- bining as it does the beauties of the Berkshire Hills with many interesting historical points in the towns. The elevation attained in passing over the Hoosac Range is not materially different from that reached at the Profile House, for instance, in the White Moun- tains, but instead of being surrounded at this eleva- tion by mountains of much greater height, the Hoosac road crosses over the top of the ridge and furnishes views such as are presented on few, if any, other main routes in this part of the country. 243 244 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Greenfield to Springfield, 125 Miles Described in reverse direction on pages 275—284 o. t Greenfield; Soldiers' monument. Proceeding west on Main street, the route descends, crosses Green River and then rises in a long climb up the slope of Greenfield Mountain. This climb is fully as steep as that over Hoosac Mountain, though not as long. 3.4 At the top of the grade, the elevation is 800 feet; a rise of 600 feet from the river. 5.0 Descending through the village of Shielburne, the route soon approaches the Deerfield River and, skirting the base of Bald Mountain (1,800 feet), passes the hydro-electric plant and enters 8.8 Shelburne Falls. At the entrance to the town the route turns to the left, and upon crossing the river turns to the right. A mile and a half beyond, the river is again crossed. 10.3 The route now follows the famous trail of the Mohawk Indians along the north bank of the Deerfield River for about ten miles. The views are most attractive, as the road passes through the constantly narrowing valley. 1 1.8 The site of Fort Taylor is on the right. The presence of this and other forts in the vicinity, speaks clearly of the perils and difficulties which beset the pioneers who followed the pleasant reaches of the river valley. 12.9 East Charlemont. 17.2 At Charlemont it is a good plan to be sure of a proper supply of water in preparation for the climb THE MOHAWK TRAIL 245 of the mountain. The principal elevation on the left is Peak Mountain, with a height of 1,640 feet. 17.6 On the right is the site of the great Rice Fort, which was 25 rods (412 feet) square. 19. On the left is the site of Hawkes Fort. 19.7 The route now crosses the river by a concrete bridge and begins the ascent of the Hoosac Range, following closely the course of Cold River. The elevation at the bridge is about 600 feet. The mountains rise abruptly on every hand, until it seems as though the road could find no way through. The steepest part of the cHmb is about five miles from the base, but the maximum grade is but little over 7 per cent. (See map, page 241.) 26. Passing a cross road, the route emerges into the open and presents marvellous views across a sea of mountain tops and into the valley from which the ascent has been made. Looking down from a point over the mouth of the tunnel one may see the old road coming directly up the side of the mountain and compassing in about two miles the ascent for which the present route takes seven. The course of the river and the railroad to Wilming- • ton, Vt., may be traced for some distance beyond the mouth of the tunnel. The summit of the mountain is occupied by the scattered village of Florida. The highest point of the ascent is now reached (29.), the elevation being about 2,000 feet. Ahead, at the left, the tip of Mt. Greylock appears above the intervening summits. Grace Hall, Williams College, Williamstown, Mass. THE MOHAWK TRAIL 247 31.6 Reaching the western slope of the mountain, the prospect suddenly opens upon a wonderful panorama. A thousand feet below lie North Adams and the valleys of the Hoosic River and its branches. Ahead are the hills of New York and Vermont. Far around to the left is Mt. Greylock, the highest peak in Massachusetts (3,500 feet), but this is seen to better advantage at a later point. The line of the old road, which zigzagged directly up the mountain-side, may be seen at several points. Upon reaching the single sharp turn of the road, the Vermont line is only about two miles distant. 35.3 Entering the streets of North Adams, the route passes to the center of the city. 36.2 fNorth Adams (Pop. 22,000) is the seat of ex- tensive manufactories of cotton, etc., and the home of one of the State Normal schools. Continuing directly through the city, the route follows the Hoosic River and enters 41.0 t Williamstown. This is the home of Williams College, the buildings of which line both sides of the village street. On the right is the college chapel. The Greylock Hotel is beyond the college buildings on Main street, as the route to Manchester turns north (sec page 343). To visit the Haystack monument, marking the "birth- place of foreign missions in America," turn to the right on Park street and at the brow of the hill, enter a small park on the right. The monument is on the left, in a circle of trees. 41.0 Leaving Williamstown toward the south, with Prospect Mountain and Mt. Greylock on the left. 248 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS the route passes through fSouth Williamstown (46). A wild gorge formed by the junction of Prospect Mountain, Greylock and Stony Ledge, is called "The Hopper." Following closely the east branch of Green River through open valleys and narrow defiles, the road passes the village of New Ashford (50.), and about a mile beyond crosses a narrow watershed. The little stream now by the roadside (5i.)> flowing south, is one of the highest sources of the Housatonic River. 56.4 Lanesborough was the home of two men who attained fame through widely different paths — Jonathan Smith, who by his speech in the conven- tion was largely instrumental in securing the acceptance of the Federal Constitution by the State of Massachusetts, and Henry W. Shaw, better known as "Josh Billings." On the right, as we approach the village, across a little valley, is Constitution Hill, the home of Jonathan Smith, and at the center of the village, on the left, is a boulder monument to his memory. The birthplace of "Josh Billings" is a rather large farmhouse seen from the center of the village on the southern extension of Constitution Hill. The burial place of the humorist is in about the center of the cemetery on the left, a little below the center of the town, and is marked by a great boulder of marble. It is not until we enter the older burial places of this vicinity and find the slate markers replaced by massive slabs of marble, that we fully realize THE MOHAWK TRAIL 249 that we are in a limestone country. Cheshire, which joins Lanesborough on the east, has extensive quarries. 9.6 Skirting the shore of Pontoosuc Lake, the route now enters Pittsfield, passing the hospital on the left at the junction of the road from Dalton, and a httle further on The Maplewood, set some- what back from the street in attractive grounds. t Pittsfield (Pop. 32,000), is the commercial heart of the Berkshires. The greater part of the town- ship, about six miles square, was owned by Jacob Wendell, the great-grandfather of Oliver Wendell Holmes who resided for many summers at Holmesdale, some two miles out of town, on what is known as the middle road to Lenox. The Wendell Hotel at the center of the city preserves this historic name. At the junction of North, South, East and West streets, is a small park on the left, in the center of which is a sun dial marking the location of an elm locally famous for its age and size. It is said to have been 340 years old at the time of its removal. The soldiers' monument, "The Color Bearer," was cast from the metal of five cannon given by Congress for the purpose. On the south side of the park stand the Atheneum with a library and collections, and the Court House. A short distance down East street, on the right, "some- what back from the village street," stands the house made famous as the scene of Longfellow's poem, "The Old Clock on the Stairs." Here lived Miss Appleton, who became the wife of the poet. On South street, just below the park, on the left, is a boulder monument marking the site of the old Easton Longfellow House— "Old Clock on the Stairs" THE MOHAWK TRAIL 251 Tavern, in which was planned the Revolutionary capture of Ticonderoga. Immediately beyond, is the Museum of Natural History and Art. 62.1 Leaving the small park, the route runs south, passing on the left the grounds of the Country Club. Six miles from Pittsfield is 68. 1 t Lenox, famed for the beauty of its scenery, the magnificence of its estates, and as having been the home for greater or less periods of time of Nathaniel Hawthorne, Fanny Kemble, Charlotte Cushman, Catherine Sedgwick, Henry Ward Beecher and many other people of note. At the entrance to the town The Aspinwall is seen perched upon the summit of a hill at the right, and at the highest point of the road is the old village church. 68.7 Descending to the center of the town we stop at the cross-roads. The elevation here is about 1,300 feet. On the right is the old Court House, now called Sedgwick Hall, and used as a Library. At the four-corners is a monument to Major- General John Pater son of Revolutionary fame. On the southeastern corner is the Town Hall. To visit the site of the "Little Red House" where Hawthorne wrote ' ' The House of the Seven Gables," turn to the right on West street and to the left when approaching vStockbridge Bowl. The site of the house is about two miles from town and overlooks the Bowl from the north. Turning to the left at the Paterson monument, the route follows the "Valley" road to Stockbridge, bearing to the right at the Episcopal church. The road straight ahead at this point is the direct route to Springfield, which we shall rejoin at East Lee, page 253. 252 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 68.8 Opposite the Episcopal Church on the Stock- bridge road, the second house, set back from the road, is the place where Charles Sedgwick kept a school, and here lived his sister Catherine, "the first American woman to achieve international fame as a writer." A little further down, on the left, stood "The Perch," the home of Fanny Kemble. 71.9 On the right is Rattlesnake Mountain and a view of Stockbridge Bowl. 74.4 Entering f Stockbridge we pass through the main street of the village. The brick building on the left, with tablets, is a school. On the right, before a large white residence is a sun dial marking the site of the study of Jonathan Edwards, where he wrote the "Freedom of the Will." Here, in a ministry to the Indians, Edwards spent the closing years of his life, though his death occurred at Princeton, N. J. On the left is the Field Memorial Tower with its chimes, marking the spot where stood the little church in the wilderness, in which John Sargent, and after him Jonathan Edwards, preached to the Indians. 75.2 Opposite the church, in the forks of the road, stands the Jonathan Edwards monument and a little beyond, where the village street slopes to the meadows of the Housatonic stands a monolith to the Stockbridge Indians, "the friends of the Colonists." The road leading toward the south at the Red Lion Inn, is the route to Great Barrington and New York. THE MOHAWK TRAIL 253 75 '> At this point we turn and retrace our route ^ through the village, following the course of the Housatonic River through South Lee. 79 2 At the railroad crossing, the view at the right is up the valley of Hop Brook toward Tyringham, where was formerly a Shaker settlement. At the left some of the marble quarries of Lee are seen. 803 Crossing the Housatonic the route enters East Lee, where it joins the direct route from Lenox Here begins the ascent which termmates at the top of Jacob's Ladder. On this side of the mountains this ascent is neither very long nor steep. The total rise from East Lee is about 700 feet, and the elevation at the top of the "Ladder" about 1,700 feet. 90.2 The summit is marked by a monument on the left From this point there is an almost contmual descent, abrupt or gradual, to Springfield, where the elevation is but 100 feet. Leaving Jacob's Ladder, the route follows the course of Walker's Brook to the West branch of the Westfield River at 96.4 Chester. At this point the line of the Boston & Albany railroad is also joined. 103.5 At Huntington the volume of the river is increased by the larger East branch. Leaving the river the road encircles Turtle Bend Mountain and passes through the village of Russell (107.5). On the right is Mt. Nero and on the left the cliffs of Mt. Tekoa (1,200 feet), the last 254 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS of the long succession of mountains through which the route has made its way. 115. Westfield (Pop. 16,000) is the seat of a State Normal school. Entering the city by Frankhn street, the route turns to the right at the center of the city on Elm, and then to the left on Main street. It crosses Little River and the Westfield, passes beneath the railroad twice and over it once, and soon enters 122.9 West Springfield. Just before reaching the Connecticut River, is the common on the. right on which is a boulder monument marking the place of the encampment in 1777 of a body of Hessian soldiers on their way to Boston after Burgoyne's surrender at Saratoga. Nearly opposite the common is the house of Major Benjamin Day built in 1754, and now oc- cupied by the Ramapogue Historical Society. Crossing the Connecticut, the route enters 123.5 t Springfield (Pop. 8 9, 000). The gilt-topped tower seen at the right from the bridge is that of the municipal buildings. On the left, as the route enters Main street is a memorial church and a monument to soldiers of the Spanish War. 124.5 Passing beneath the railroad arch the route reaches 125. Main and State streets, from which point the route to Boston begins. (See page 50). The Kimball Hotel is reached by a left turn on Bridge street to Chestnut. The route to Hartford continues south on Main street. (See. page 265.) XIII The Great Post Road (1) Boston to Springfield, 94.5 Miles (2) Springfield to New Haven, 63.5 Miles Described in reverse direction in Chapters I and III This, the first section of the main highway between Boston and New York, follows in a general way not 3nly the route of the early stage lines between the two cities, but of the Indian trail which led through the forests from the Massachusetts coast to the Connecticut River. Under the name of the "Bay Path," this trail was also followed by the pioneers in their jouneys through the otherwise unbroken wilderness which separated the settlements on the shores of Massachusetts Bay From those of the ' ' Great River. ' ' Over this road came Washington to assume com- mand of the Continental armies at Cambridge, and again in 1789, when as President, he made a tour through the P^astern States. The early stages on this route left Boston at five D'clock in the morning and reached Worcester in, the evening. The next day they proceeded to Palmer and on the third day reached Hartford. 255 256 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Boston to Springfield, 94.5 Miles Reverse of route shown on pages 51-61 o. Leaving Boston on Commonwealth avenue, the route runs through Brookline on Beacon street, rejoins Commonwealth avenue at the reservoir and passes through Newton Centre and Auburndale. 10.4 Norumbega Park is on the right. Just be- yond, the route crosses Charles River and soon turns to the right to 13.9 Weston. Here we enter the "Great Post Road," over which the stages for Hartford and New York were operated. On the right is the stone church of the First Parish, the bell in the tower of which was cast by Paul Revere in 1801. 1 5.1 At the left leaves the Old Connecticut Path, an early trail through the wilderness to the Con- necticut settlements. 17.3 Wayland. The village church, on the left, was built in 18 14. 18.3 Crossing the meadows of the Sudbury River, the route passes through South Sudbury. 22.9 On the right is a tablet marking the site of an old stone garrison house. At this point the broad gable end of the Red Horse Tavern, made famous by Longfellow's "Tales of a Wayside Inn," comes into view. 23.4 The great oaks at the entrance to the Inn are probably from 300 to 400 years old. THE GREAT POST ROAD 257 27.5 Marlboro (Pop. 15,000). Upon entering the town the route turns sharply to the left and follows the trolley through the center of the city. Here are large manufactories of men's shoes. Passing through the main street, the City Hall and railroad station are on the left and on the right is the High School. Immediately beyond is G. A. R. Hall, on the front of which is John Brown*s bell, which hung in the engine house at Harper's Ferry, where Brown made his fight and was captured. This bell he expected to ring as a signal for the rising of the slaves. The route now bears to the left at the Soldiers' monument, passes the Public Library on the right, and descending a hill skirts the shores of Lake Williams, at the head of which is the old Gates Tavern, established in 1665. In front of this tavern the route turns to the right and enters 33.9 Northboro. 37.1 On the left, in a reverse fork of the roads, is the house once kept as a tavern by Levi Pease, "the Father of the Turnpike," who established a stage line between Boston and Hartford in 1783, held the first contract made by the United States Government for the carrying of mails, and re- ceived the first charter granted in Massachusetts for a turnpike. The approach to Shrewsbury is by a long ascent, the elevation at the center of the town being 650 feet. 37.4 At the beginning of the hill, on the left, opposite a park, is the home of Gen. Artemus Ward, who 258 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS had command of the troops at Cambridge before the arrival of General Washington. Opposite the house is an old mile-stone. A little beyond, on the left, is a tablet marking the place where "Luther Goddard, a noted clock- maker, established the first factory for the making of American watches, about 1790." Across the road, is a factory where leather has been made continuously since 1803. 38.4 Near the center of the village, on the right, is a Memorial Library, a small boulder to 12.8 minute- men who answered the Lexington alarm, and the common, with a brick schoolhouse used since 1830, at its upper end. In the church here, John B. Gough delivered his first temperance lecture. 39.4 On the right is the estate of C. H. Hutchins, president of the Crompton-Knowles Loom Works with an excellent view including the spires of Worcester, straight ahead; the State Asylum for the Insane; the village of Holden; and, at the extreme right, Wachusett Mountain, with a house on its summit. At the foot of the hill, Pease's turnpike and the Boston & Worcester trolley line come in from the left. 41.4 Passing the White City amusement resort on the left, the road crosses Lake Quinsigamond and, ascending the hill with the asylum on the right, enters t Worcester (Pop. 146,000). The square granite tower, with a clock, on the left, is the tower THE GREAT POST ROAD 259 of the old Union Station. The new station has two white towers. 44. Bearing to the right at the station, the route passes City Hall Park, on the left, with the Soldiers' monument "Victory," and a monument over the remains of Col. Timothy Bigelow and other Revolu- tionary soldiers. At the side of City Hall, as the route turns to the left, is a statue of Senator George F. Hoar. The Bancroft Hotel is over at the left after passing City Hall. Keeping to the right on Main street, some of the buildings passed are: the Post Ofhce, on the left, of marble, with a square tower; the ornate Baptist church on the left, with the Masonic Hall behind it on the side street; I. O. 0. F. Hall on the right. On the right glimpses may be had of the castle- like buildings formerly occupied by Oread Semi- nary, an important school for girls. 45.3 On the right is Clark University, opposite which is University Park, and just beyond the park, on higher ground, one of Worcester's High schools. 45.9 At Webster square the route bears to the right and passes through Cherry Valley, the scene of a disaster in 1876 caused by the bursting of a dam. 50.7 The route now ascends the steep grade of Leicester hill. At the brow of the hill, the first house on the right, marked as being the site of the first dwelling erected in the town, was the home of Samuel May, a noted anti-slavery worker. 51.2 On the right at the common is Leicester 260 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Academy, established in 1784. Here also is a boulder monument to the minute-men who marched from this point in 1775. A mile west of the meet- ing house on the left lived Lewis Allen, a tory, who at his request, was buried in his garden near the road "so that he might hear the stage go by with the news from Boston." Between Leicester and Spencer the road reaches an elevation of 1,050 feet, the highest point touched between Boston and New York. Here also is a prominent watershed, some of the streams running into Narragansett Bay, some into the Thames River and some into the Connecticut. 55.4 Spencer. In front of the Town Hall, on the right, is a monument to Elias Howe, inventor of the sewing machine, and his brothers, also inventors. 56. On the right is a monument marking the site of an early settlement of Spencer by Samuel Bemis, and another in honor of Capt. Edmond Bemis, who was in the French and Indian wars, at Louisburg and Crown Point. 58.7 At East Brookfield, Lake Lashaway is on the right. 61.5 At Brookfield, just beyond the Inn and on the opposite side of the road, is Brookfield farm house, with a remarkably fine Colonial doorway and windows. The stream at the left is the Quaboag River, which the road follows for some eighteen miles. At the foot of Brookfield Hill, the route bears to the left to avoid Foster's Hill, the site of the first THE GREAT POST ROAD 261 settlement of Brookfield. On this hill are several tablets marking scenes in King Philip's war and the rock where Whitfield preached in 1741. At the entrance of West Brookfield just before reaching the common (No. 42 South Main street), stands the former home of Prof. Austin Phelps, the father of Elizabeth Stuart Phelps Ward. Nearly opposite, on the common is an old mile- stone, "Boston 63 miles." At the north end of the common is the site of Fort Gilbert, built about 1688, to protect the second settlement of Brookfield from the Indians. 64.3 West Brookfield Tavern, on the left, was built in 1760 and entertained Washington (1789), Lafayette (1825), John Adams and other notables. On the outskirts of the village. Lake Wickaboag is passed on the right. Bearing to the left, the route now follows the Quaboag River through Warren and West Warren to Palmer. 68. Between Warren and West Warren on the left is Marks Mountain (1,100 ft.) Beyond West Warren the country becomes rough and picturesque as the road, with easy grades, follows the Quaboag through its narrow valley toward Palmer. 73.5 The station of West Brimfield is seen at the left with Cook's Mountain (1,000 ft.) beyond. Here the Southern New England RR (Grand Trunk Hues) crosses the valley and skirts the hills toward Brim- field. As the valley opens, Chicopee Mountain is seen ahead with the buildings of the State Epileptic Hospital in Monson on its slopes. 262 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 79.3 Palmer is the junction of the Boston & Albany and New London Northern (Grand Trunk) rail- roads. Upon entering the town the route turns to the left at the end of the road and then to the right. On the right upon leaving the town, is the conical peak of Mt. Dumpling. 81.2 A little beyond the bridge over the river, is a large elm on the left (marked by a tablet) , beneath which it is said Washington stopped on his way to take command of the army at Cambridge, and addressed the citizens of Palmer. 84. Approaching North Wilbraham, the road skirts a pond-like stretch of the Chicopee River. 84.2 Nine Mile Pond, named from its distance from Springfield, is on the left. Ludlow, the seat of an extensive manufacturing plant is seen at the right, and while crossing Spring- field plains, Mt. Tom and the Holyoke range are seen at the right and the Wilbraham Mountains at the left. 89.6 Five Mile Pond is on the right. 90.5 Springfield may be entered from this point either by Bay Road, at the right, or by keeping straight ahead. On the direct route, the city Poor Farm is passed on the right. Passing on the left a large motor- cycle factory, the route soon reaches Benton Park, on the right, at the approach to the United States Arsenal. THE GREAT POST ROAD 263 In the park is a monument marking the place where were enacted the final scenes of Shay's Rebellion in 1787. At the lower end of the park is the Wait Guide-stone, or Boston stone, erected in 1763 by Joseph Wait of Brookfield, who lost his way at this point in a blinding snowstorm and erected the stone as a guide to future travelers. Proceeding down State street, beyond the Arsenal, on the right is the Cathedral and the Library and Art Museum. On the left is the High School and the Church of the Unity. Below the Library is the statue of Deacon Chapin, an early settler at Springfield, by Saint-Gaudens, typifying "the Puritan." 94.5 t Springfield, Main street (Pop. 89,000). The Kimball Hotel is at the corner of Bridge and Chestnut Streets. To reach the fine group of municipal buildings, turn to the right on Main street. The buildings are then on the left. Here, too, is a statue of Miles Morgan, an an- cestor of J. Pierpont Morgan. Miles Morgan was the third settler at Springfield. In 1643 he went to Boston, was married and brought his bride back through the wilderness, all of the party but the lady walking the entire distance. The route to Hartford turns to the left on Main street. (See page 265.) The route to The Berkshires turns to the right. (See page 275.) s ctf h-1 THE GREAT POST ROAD 265 (2) Springfield to New Haven, 63.5 Miles Reverse of route shown on pages 27-34. o. t Springfield, Main and State streets. Running southeast on Main street, the route bears to the right into Pecowsic avenue. 1.7 On the hill at the left is the Barney residence and mausoleum, situated on the borders of Forest Park. Just beyond is a monument to President McKinley. The road from this point to East Hartford runs chiefly along the crest of a ridge, sloping on the right to the Connecticut River, and affording many pleasant views in both directions. A series of most attractive villages merge one into the other with scarcely a break. The first of these towns is Longmeadow. 3.6 Here on the right, beyond a slight ravine, with an old mile-stone in front of it, is the Ely mansion, where lived Eleazer Williams, supposed to have been the lost Dauphin Louis XVII of France, the son of Marie Antoinette. The mile-post reads, "... from Boston, 22 from Hartford." 3.8 In the church on the left hangs a bell which has a unique history. It was cast by Paul Revere in 18 10, cracked in celebrating the end of the war of 181 2, and recast by Revere. Richard Salter Storrs was for many years the pastor of this church. 5.6 At State Line Grove, on the left, the route enters Connecticut. On the right is the well-named Conchusett farm. 266 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 9. At Enfield, Conn., the Shaker village lies in the valley at the left, and the extensive powder mills at Hazardville are also on this side, about two miles from the road. Here the prospect at the right and left has a particularly wide sweep. 1 1.6 Approaching Warehouse Point the road turns abruptly to the river bank near the railroad bridge over the Connecticut. For miles the road is lined by extensive tobacco farms. 18.6 At East Windsor Hill, on the right, are the old brick buildings originally occupied by the Theolog- . ical School now located in Hartford. Upon the main building is the inscription **Oraculum, University of Benevolence." 18.8 A little beyond, on the right, is a prominent white house with a Colonial doorway. This is an ancestral home of the Grant family from which descended Ulysses S. Grant. Not far beyond, near the cemetery stood the birthplace of Jonathan Edwards. A stone to the memory of his father, Rev. Timothy Edwards, is in the cemetery. 21.7 South Windsor was a depot for prisoners in the Revolution, and many of its large trees were planted by British and Hessian captives under the direc- tion of Lafayette. 22.7 On the right is an old mile-post. 23.6 The dome of the Connecticut Capitol is seen on the right. 24.9 At East Hartford the route turns to the right at the church and crosses the Connecticut River THE GREAT POST ROAD 267 on the wide and substantial bridge erected by a corporation of some of the adjoining towns. The view of Hartford from this bridge includes: a little at the right, the square brownstone Keney Memorial Tower; at the left, the dome of the Capitol, the smaller gilded dome of the Old State House and City Hall, and the spire, with a gilt ball, of the First Church. Downstream is the plant of the Colts Arms Manufactur- ing Company. 26.5 tHartford (Pop. 99.000)' formerly a port of ^ considerable importance and a center of the West Indian trade, is now the home of many great insurance companies. Entering the city the route curves to the left at the end of the bridge and reaches the Post Office and Old State House, where sat the Hartford Con- vention in 1815, in which New England voiced its protest against the war of 181 2. Turning left into Main street, on the left is the Wadsworth Atheneum and Public Library, and the adjoining Morgan Art Memorial, before which is a statue of Nathan Hale, the patriot. The Atheneum is erected on the site of the home of Col. Jeremiah Wadsworth, a trusted friend of Washington. Here Washington met the French commander Count de Rochambeau in 1 781, and discussed with him the plans for the Yorktown campaign. Next is the City Hall. Just beyond, when crossing the bridge over Park River, the Capitol, which is attractively located m Bushnell Park, is seen at the right. The main entrance to this park is beneath the great Soldiers' Memorial Arch. 268 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 27. Opposite the next church, a branch trolley line leaves to the left. A short distance down this street is the stone, which may be seen from Main street, marking the site of the famous Charter Oak. 27.1 Bearing to the right at a fork of the roads (the left leading to Middletown) the route passes the hospital, on the right, and keeping straight ahead, runs over a rolling turnpike to Berlin. On the right, when approaching the town, the city of New Britain is seen, some four miles away. 37.5. Berlin. In this town tinware was manufactured before the Revolution, and for many years this was the point from which the tin peddlers obtained their stock and took their departure for all parts of the Eastern States, carrying their wares at first on horseback and then in wagons which were often of brilliant hues. On the left is Mt. Lamentation, which has an elevation of about 1,000 feet. The name of this mountain is said to have been derived from the cries or lamentations of a party which in the early days was searching in the forest for a man from Middletown who was supposed to be lost and wandering in this vicinity. The road now enters 42.7 Meriden (Pop. 27,000), sometimes called Silver City on account of the great amount of silver- plated ware which is manufactured here. Passing, on the right, the buildings of the 43.7 State Reform School, the route reaches the center of the city. THE GREAT POST ROAD 269 43.9 Here it turns to the right on Main street and then to the left on Cook avenue. 46.5 Passing through the village of Tracy (Yales- ville station), the route turns sharply to the left under the railroad. The road straight ahead is that traveled by the old stage line to New Haven. The route now runs through a stretch of country in which the road maintains an almost level grade for nearly fifteen miles. On the right are the Hanging Hills of Meriden, with an elevation of 1,000 feet. 50.0 Wallingford (Pop. 8,700). The route does not pass through the business center of the town which is located on the ridge at the left. Some distance below Wallingford there were standing a few years ago a number of large Colonial houses of rather striking appearance, bearing evidence to the character of the road as one of the main highways a century and a half ago. These have disappeared with the exception of one old brick structure which bears the date 1759. The road now passes directly through 55.2 North Haven. On the left is an old burial place which has been made a part of the village green. On the right rises East Rock, on which is one of the parks of New Haven. At the summit is a monument to the soldiers of three wars. Passing through the village of Montowese the road crosses the Quinnipiac meadows. 270 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 60.5 Passing under the railroad and crossing the Qtiinnipiac River the road ascends a sHght grade, goes over the railroad and turns to the left on State street. This street may be followed to the center of the city, but it is better to turn to the right at one of the through signs and then to the left on Temple street. fNew Haven (Pop. 133,600). This is the largest city in the State and formerly divided with Hart- ford the honor of being the capital. Here are located large manufacturing plants in great variety and the headquarters of the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad Company. In the center of the city are the many fine build- ings pertaining to Yale University. Entering the city on Temple street the route passes several chapter houses of the college frater- nities. On the lower right-hand corner of Grove street lived Noah Webster, the lexicographer. At the corner of Temple and Elm streets on the left is the Free Public Library, below which is the Court House. On Elm street at the right are two Colonial houses, the first now the residence of Anson Phelps Stokes, and the second the home of the Graduates' Club. Stopping for a moment here at the entrance of the historic Green, which Temple street bisects, we see immediately at the right the three churches. United, Center and Trinity. Beyond the green at the right is Yale College. Directly ahead, across the green is the business THE GREAT POST ROAD 271 center of the city. On the left is City Hall and the new Post Office. Facing the Green is Hotel Taft. The Green is the historic center of the city. Here Washington reviewed the patriotic band of Yale students as he passed on his way to the com- mand of the army at Cambridge. Here Benedict Arnold, who was a New Haven druggist and book- seller, drew up his little company and demanded the keys of the powder-house when news came of the battle of Lexington. Here stood the old State House. Center Church, which was erected in 1814, is built over a part of the old burying ground. Be- neath the church is a crypt in which stand 140 tombstones of the period before 1780. On the rear outside walls of the church are tablets to Theophilus Eaton, the first Governor of New Haven Colony, and to Stephen Goodyear, the first Deputy Governor. Behind the church is also the original grave-stone and a more modern monument to John Dixwell, who was one of the regicide judges of Charles I. 63.5 Having traversed the green, the route reaches Chapel street at the center of the city. The route to New London turns to the left on Chapel street. (See page 63.) The route to New York turns to the right (page 329). Lake Onota, near Pittsfield, Mass. To Albany To Willi .Rayville^ / y»/01d Chatham H^aSJ-^p^ .Four Corner hatham \ jCanaan Concord Canaari Center Redrock ^^Spencertown StOCkbridgeM WStockbridge/ ) {//U^ I w / r/i(\ *Mtn. r ^ Green Riveri AusterHtz/HarveyMl It I^Williamsville' llterlakenl t:!^ l' /TomBallMtn. Stockbridge / Alford^ DHousatonil Monument J Mtn.i / ^ iNorth Egremont- / .Great 5arrington/""l vMill River/ To Poughkeepsie To Waterbury '^^^ ^^ ges 240-241 ^^^ JMontville Sandisfield\| West New Boston SHIRES 273 The Greylock at Williamstown. XIV The Berkshires Again Springfield to Pittsfield and Greenfield Described in reverse direction in Chapter XII This route will seem to many tourists the natural way of reaching the Berkshire Hills from points on the eastern coast of New England, because it is the route which has been most frequently used in the past and is the best known. If the objective point be Pittsfield or Albany, this is still the better road, but if it is contemplated to make the round trip through the Berkshires and over Hoosac Mountain, the reverse of this route, going by way of Greenfield and returning by way of Spring- field is the better. (See Chapter XII.) The reason for this lies in the fact that by the latter route the climb over both Jacob's Ladder and Hoosac Moun- tain are taken on the easier side. This route is, however, sufficiently attractive to make a delightful trip and is deservedly popular. 274 THE BERKSHIRES AGAIN 275 Springfield to Greenfield, 125 Miles Reverse of route shown on pages 244-254. For complete layout of routes through the Berkshires see Maps, pages 240-1 and 272-3. o. Leaving Springfield at Main and State streets, the route runs west on Main street beneath the railroad arch. At the junction of Main and Plain- field streets, as the route bears to the left, are a monument to the soldiers of the Spanish War, and a Memorial Church. 1.7 Bearing still to the left we cross the Connecticut River into 2.1 West Springfield. On the common at the left is a boulder marking the spot where a body of Hessians camped in 1777 on their way to Boston after the surrender of Burgoyne at Saratoga. Nearly opposite the common is the home of the Historical Society, originally the house of Major Benjamin Day, and built in 1754. 7.5 After winding about the railway line in several loops which require caution on the part of the driver, the route crosses the Westfield and Little Rivers and enters 9. Westfield (Pop. 16,000). This is the junction of the Boston & Albany railroad and the old canal road from New Haven and is the seat of a State Normal school. At the center of the city the route turns to the right on Elm street and then to the left with a trolley Hne on Franklin street. Following the valley of the Westfield River, the road now begins the ascent which only terminates at the top of Jacob's Ladder, twenty miles beyond. THE BERKSHIRES AGAIN 277 For several miles, however, the grade is hardly perceptible. 15. As the road nears the paper mills at Woronoco, the valley narrows, with the cliffs of Mt. Tekoa at the right and Mt. Nero on the left. The eleva- tion of the road at this point is about 200 feet. 17.5 At Russell the route bears to the left, leaving the river to make the circuit of Turtle Bend Mountain. 21.5 Huntington. Here the elevation is 400 feet, and the road crosses the river. At this point the stream divides and the route follows the smaller west branch. (See road map, pages 272-3.) Again crossing the river the road ascends to 28.4 Chester (elevation 600 feet), where the main branch of the river and the railroad are left. The route now follows Walker's Brook, with continuous grades and curves until the top of 34.8 Jacobus Ladder is reached at an elevation of about 1,700 feet. The summit is marked by a monument on the right. 39.3 On the descent the road passes Greenwater Pond, on the left. 43.6 East Lee. From this point the most direct route to Pittsfield is straight ahead through Lee, to Lenox. In order to visit Stockbridge, however, our route now leaves this main road, 44.7 turning to the left across the Housatonic River and following the stream through South Lee, the route reaches 278 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 49. t Stockbridge (Elevation 900 feet). This region is made the scene of Edward Bellamy's novel, "The Duke of Stockbridge, " the time of the story being that of Shay's rebellion. At the entrance to the village on the left is a large schoolhouse. A little beyond is a fountain, nearly opposite which, in front of a large white • residence, is a sun dial which marks the site of the study of Jonathan Edwards, where he wrote the "Freedom of the Will." Edwards was minister to the Indians of Stockbridge during the last years of his life, although he died and is buried at Princeton, N. J. 49.3 At the four-corners in the center of the village, the road at the left at the side of the Red Lion Inn, is the route to Great Barrington and New York. On the left is the Field Memorial Tower with chimes, marking the site of the little church where John Sargent and Jonathan Edwards preached to the Indians. 49.8 Opposite the church, in the forks of the road, stands the Jonathan Edwards Monument and a little beyond, where the village street slopes to the Housatonic, stands a monolith to the Stock- bridge Indians, "the friends of the Colonists." The monument stands on the ancient burial place of the tribe. Turning about at this point the route retraces its way through the village and bearing to the left nearly opposite the schoolhouse, follows the "val- ley" road to Lenox. THE BERKSHIRES AGAIN 279 53. On the left is a view of Rattlesnake Hill and Stockbridge Bowl (Lake Mahkeenac). On the northern side of the Bowl stood the "Little Red House," the home of Nathaniel Hawthorne where he wrote "The House of the Seven Gables." This, too, was the scene of his "Tangle wood Tales." 55. On an elevation at the right stood "The Perch," the home of Fanny Kemble. 56.1 Just before reaching the Episcopal church, the second house from the corner on the left was the home of Charles Sedgwick, with whom lived his sister Catherine, "the first American woman to achieve international fame as a writer." Re- joining the direct road from Lee, the route reaches the center of 56.3 t Lenox (Elevation 1,300 feet). Here, on the left is the Town Hall; at the four-corners is a monument to Major- General John Paterson of Revolutionary fame, and on the right after turning the corner is the Old Court House now known as Sedgwick Hall, and used for the Hbrary, etc. 56.8 At the top of the hill which terminates the village street, is the old meeting house on the left and above that is perched The Aspinwall, command- ing a wide and beautiful view. 60.9 On the right is the Pittsfield Country Club. 62.9 t Pittsfield (Pop. 32,000; elevation 1,000 feet.) This is the commercial center of the Berkshire region. Entering the city by South street the route passes, on the right, the Museum of Natural History and Art. 280 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Just beyond this is a boulder monument mark- the site of the Easton Tavern, in which the Revolu- tionary capture of Fort Ticonderoga was planned. At the junction of North, South, East and West streets is a small park on the right, in the center of which is a sun dial marking the location of an elm beneath which many of the important events of the town were enacted. The tree was removed in 1864, and is said to have been 340 years old. Here also is the Soldiers' Monument "The Color Bearer" cast from the metal of five cannon given by Congress for the purpose. At the left is the Wendell Hotel. At the right of the park on East street is the Atheneum with a library and collections, and the Court House. Farther down East street at the corner of Bartlett avenue is the house famous as the scene of Longfellow's poem, "The Old Clock on the Stairs." This was the home of Miss Apple- ton, who became the wife of the poet. The greater part of this township was originally owned by Jacob Wendell, the great-grandfather of Oliver Wendell Holmes, who resided many summers at the family seat, Holmesdale, which is situated some two miles out of town on what is known as the middle road to Lenox. 62.9 Proceeding up North street, the main business street of the city, the route passes the Maplewood Hotel at the right and passes to the left of the the hospital. 66.7 Leaving Pittsfield, the route passes Pontoosuc THE BERKSHIRES AGAIN 281 Lake, on the left, with Mt. Greylock straight ahead, and soon after enters 68.4 Lanesborough. In about the center of the burial ground at the right enclosed by a railing, is a massive block of marble, rough hewn, marking the grave of Henry W. Shaw, better known as "Josh Billings." Entrance into the old cemeteries of this section emphasizes the fact that we are in the marble country, for there are none of the slate or sandstone markers seen so generally through New England, but in place of them slabs of marble sometimes three inches in thickness. Looking to the left, across the valley, a large prosperous looking white farmhouse on the side of the hill, is the birthplace of Josh Billings. 68.6 In the center of the village, as the trolley line leaves to the right, is a boulder monument to Jonathan Smith, who by his speech in the Convention was largely instrumental in securing the acceptance of the Federal Constitution by the State of Massachusetts. The home of Jona- than Smith was located on the main part of "Constitution" Hill, at the left of the village and a little above the center. 70.3 A little beyond the second cemetery (on the left) the route turns to the left and then to the right. The route now ascends a little stream, which is one of the main headwaters of the Housatonic River, to its source among the hills of New Ashford, and passing over the height of land at an elevation of 1,500 feet, follows one of the feeders 282 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS of the Green River which flows into the Hoosic at Williamstown and thence into the Hudson. Upon coming out into the open valley, the Grey lock Range is close at hand on the right. Greylock, with an elevation of 3,500 feet, is the highest mountain in Massachusetts. 79.3 At t South Williamstown a wild gorge directly east of the village formed by the junction of Grey- lock, Prospect Mountain and Stony Ledge, is called "The Hopper/' 84.0 t Williamstown is first of all the home of Williams College, the buildings of which line the main street of the town. To visit the Haystack Monument, marking the birth- place of foreign missions in America, turn to the right on Park street, which is a little at the left of the point of entrance to the town. At the brow of the hill, enter a small park on the right. The monument is on the left, in a circle of trees. The Greylock Hotel is over at the left, two blocks. For Manchester and Burlington see page 343. 84.0 Leaving Williamstown (Main and Water streets) toward the east, the route soon reaches 88.8 fNorth Adams (Pop. 22,000), a manufactur- ing city and the home of one of the State Normal Schools. The route runs through the center of the city. Although the road which now passes over Hoosac Mountain is a boulevard compared to that which was formerly used, an ample supply of water should be taken before starting the climb. At North Adams the elevation is about 700 feet. Upon leaving the city on the "Mohawk Trail" THE BERKSHIRES AGAIN 283 the road comes face to face with the mountain and is soon ascending its precipitous side in a long loop to the north. The old road which zigzagged directly up the mountain, is seen at several points. At the point farthest north, the Vermont Hne is only two miles distant. Upon turning the loop, which is the only sharp curve encountered on the mountain, the broad view looks over the valley of the Hoosic and its tributaries. Across the valley toward the south rises Mt. Greylock. 96. The highest point of the ascent is now reached, the elevation being about 2,000 feet. The summit of the mountain is occupied by the scattered village of Florida. From this point for about three miles there is a series of broad views to the eastward over a multitude of mountain tops and into the valley of the Deerfield River, which the route follows after its descent from the heights. 99. When above the mouth of the tunnel, the old road is seen coming directly up the side of the mountain. Beyond the mouth of the tunnel at the left, the course of the river and the railroad to Wilmington, Vt., may be traced for some distance. The descent from this point is about seven miles, much of the distance being along the course of Cold River. 105.3 Emerging from the mountains, the road enters the valley of the Deerfield River at an elevation of about 600 feet. 106. On the right is the site of Hawkes Fort, one of several forts in this vicinity which protected 284 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS the settlers when the Mohawk Trail was something more than a name. 107.4 On the left is the site of the great Rice Fort, which was about 400 feet square. 107.8 At Charlemont, Mt. Peak, 1,640 feet, is on the right. Following the river closely the road passes through East Charlemont (11 2.1). 1 13.2 On the left is the site of Fort Taylor. Cross- ing the river the route enters 116. Shelburne Falls and again crosses the river at the center of the town. 120. From this point there is a long, but not difficult grade through the village of Shelburne and over Shelburne Mountain. 12 1.6 The elevation at the summit is 800 feet, from which point the road descends rapidly to the level of Green River. Crossing this stream at an eleva- tion of 200 feet the route enters 125. t Greenfield (Pop. 10,500). The Weldon Hotel. The route to Boston runs straight ahead on Main street. (See page 286.) The route to Springfield turns to the right at the square. (See page 225.) The route to Keene and the White Mountains turns to the left beyond the square. (See page 40.) Lake Sunapee from the Granliden A Distant View of the Berkshire Hills XV In Northern Massachusetts Greenfield to Boston, 98 Miles Reverse of route described in Chapter XI This route will naturally be used by many who wish to reach Boston from the Mohawk Trail. It is not so good a road across the State as that by way of Springfield, because the grades are more fre- quent and the roads beyond Fitchburg are not the equal of those east of Worcester on the Post Road. It is, however, a pleasant route with a great deal of excellent State road, and as it enters Boston by way of Concord and Lexington, it has the distinct advantage of affording an opportunity to visit these interesting places. 285 286 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Greenfield to Boston, 98 Miles Reverse of the route described on pages 230-242 o. t Greenfield. Small park on Main street. Run- ning east on Main street, with the Post Office on the right and the library on the left, the route turns to the left on High street, around a fine Colonial house of brick, in the Southern style. On the left is the hospital. The square tower on the elevation at the right is at Poet's Seat on Rocky Mountain. The route skirts the base of this rugged hill and upon bearing sharply to the right, comes suddenly upon a broad view over the valley of the Connecticut River and to Mt. Tobey beyond. As the route descends the grade along the course of the river, the town of Turner's Falls is at the right. The high tension wires which run down the valley, carry the electricity generated at the Turner's Falls power plant which is located just beyond the spillway of the canal. 2.6 Upon reaching the bottom of the grade, the road crosses the river on a suspension bridge and imme- diately beyond the canal, turns to the left up- grade. At the top of the grade, the route turns to the right and runs straight through the town. 2.8 Turner's Falls was the scene, in 1676, of an im- portant battle with the Indians under King Philip, in which Captain Turner and many of his men who attacked the savages, were killed. During the battle about 150 of the Indians went over the falls in their canoes, and were drowned. IN NORTHERN MASSACHUSETTS 287 The Connecticut at this point, constricted by the hills which rise closely about its course, winds with many sharp curves around the location of the town and descending with a fall of thirty-six feet, furnishes abundant water-power for manufacturing purposes. Beyond the long brick row on the left, another suspension bridge is seen. 7.3 Upon reaching Miller's Falls, the route turns to the left, down-grade, and at the center of the town turns again to the left. 7.6 Crossing Miller's River and the railroad, the route turns to the right and ascends to a considerable height above the river. Here the scenery is wild and picturesque. The river is swift and the hills rise sharply on either side to the height of about 1,200 feet. Upon descending through the hamlet of Farley the route reaches the level of the river, the course of which it follows closely to Athol. Passing through Erving and West Orange, the road reaches 18.6 Orange, which is the seat of several manu- factories of well known articles. 23.5 Athol (Pop. 8,500; elevation 600 feet). After passing through the portion of this town which hes along the river bottom, the route bears to the right, crosses beneath the railroad and immediately begins a long steep cHmb through Athol Centre (24.5). This ascent continues without much in- terruption until the elevation of 1,100 feet has been reached, some three miles beyond the begin- ning of the rise. Upon entering 288 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 33. Baldwinville, the route turns to the left across the Otter River, and immediately to the right at the center of the village (33.2). The route straight ahead leads to Templeton and the Templeton Inn. Passing beneath two railroads, the Fitchburg Division of the Boston & Maine, and a branch of the Boston & Albany, the road ascends a grade through the little village of Otter River and con- tinues over a rolling country to t Gardner (Pop. 14,700; elevation 1,100 feet). Here are large manufactories of chairs, a mammoth specimen of which is displayed at the railroad station. 38. Upon entering the town, the route turns to the right at an open square, and to the left at the foot of the grade. Bearing to the right it passes the railroad station, on the right, and just beyond, turns to the right across a bridge over the railroad. 39.6 At South Gardner the route bears to the left, and runs across a rolling country with descending grades. At South Gardner church the top of Mt. Wachusett is seen ahead on the right. The occasional swamps along the road, are the head- waters of the Ware River which reaches the Con- necticut near Springfield. 43.6 Westminster. Near the center of this village the route turns sharply to the left down-grade. As it runs along the shores of a reservoir, Mt. Wachu- sett, with a house upon its summit, appears directly across the pond. Constantly descending and passing beneath the railroad near Westminster station (on the left) IN NORTHERN MASSACHUSETTS 289 the road reaches the valley of the Nashua River and enters 49. Fitchburg (Pop. 37,800). At the right are the great quarries on RoUstone Hill. 50.6 The route follows the course of the river, which is here useful but exceedingly unattractive, to the center of the city, passing City Hall on the right. From this point there are several good routes to Boston. One may turn to the left through the hilltown of Lunenburg and the delightful old town of Groton, and thence reach Boston by way of Concord and Lexington. Or, starting in the same manner, he may reach Concord from Lunenburg by way of Ayer and Harvard. 50.8 Our route follows neither of these roads, but at the railroad station turns to the right over the tracks and then to the left with the line of the rail- road through South Fitchburg to 55. Leominster (Pop. 17,600). Here, among the varied interests, are large manufactories of combs. 55.4 Upon reaching the center of the town, the route turns to the left on Lancaster street and follows the trolley line. Crossing the valley of the Nashua River on a sort of causeway with frequent bridges, the route passes through 61.4 North Village (Lancaster). Here a prominent road at the right leads to CUnton. The route ascends a sHght grade and reaches, on the left, the 61.6 Beaman Oak. This venerable tree is said to be the largest oak in Massachusetts, although there are 290 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS famous trees of this species at the Wayside Inn, Sudbury and at Waverly, near Boston. The tree now measures twenty-nine feet in circumference at the base, and eighteen feet five inches at the height of five feet from the ground. Its height is seventy- five feet and its spread is about the same. In 1840, the circumference at the height of three feet from the ground is given in ''Emerson's Trees and Shrubs of Massachusetts," as seventeen feet. GameHel Beaman settled at this place in 1659, and it is quite conceivable that the tree shaded his dooryard. Beyond the oak, the route crosses the railroad and the river and passes through the little town of Bolton (65.5). Six miles beyond is the quiet town of Stow (71.4) from which point the route follows the trolley line to 73.6 Maynard. Here the Assabet River, one of the main branches of the Concord, is crossed. From this point there are two routes to Boston. That by way of Waltham, which is the more direct, and that by way of Concord and Lexington, which is the more interesting. 74.4 At the center of the town the route turns to the right across the Assabet River. 74.5 Here, as the trolley line bears to the left, the road straight ahead leads to Waltham. Our route follows the car line along the Assabet River to Concord, passing, in a corner of the town of Acton, an extensive powder works which lines the road on both sides with small isolated buildings. 77.4 At the village of Westdale the route turns to the 292 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS right and crosses the railroad at Concord Junction station. Here is the final crossing of the Assabet. Over at the left is the State Reformatory. Passing under the railroad, the route crosses the Sudbury River, which here joins the Assabet to make the Concord, and enters 80.1 t Concord. From the square in the center of the town, the scene of the Concord fight, Hawthorne's Old Manse (close by the battlefield) and Sleepy Hollow Cemetery are easily reached, but are not on the direct route. On the right at the square, is the Wright Tavern, which was opened about 1747. This was the rendezvous of the Concord minute-men on the morning before the fight and the headquarters of the British a few hours later. Here Major Pit- cairn, who commanded the British marines, is said to have observed as he stirred his brandy and sugar with his finger: "In this way we will stir the blood of the Yankees before night." Continuing along Lexington road, at a prominent fork, on the right, is the house in which Ralph Waldo Emerson lived, and where he died in 1882. A little beyond this, on the left, stands the "Orchard House," which was the home of the Alcott family for twenty years, and in which Louisa M. Alcott wrote "Little Women." Back from the road near the house is the little Hillside Chapel in which the sessions of the School of Philosophy were held. Just beyond this is "The Wayside," the home of , Nathaniel Hawthorne during his second residence IN NORTHERN MASSACHUSETTS 293 in Concord. The square tower of this house was his study. This was entered by a trap-door upon which, it is said, Hawthorne was accustomed to place his chair when writing in order to effectively secure seclusion. Next to this is the home of the Concord grape, which was originated here in 1843 by Ephraim W. Bull. The original vine still grows near the house, and a tablet appropriately modelled, stands as a tardy memorial to the value of the work of the discoverer. We may now return to matters Revolutionary and follow the general course of the British as they retreated toward Lexington. ;i.4 At Merriam's Corner as the route turns to the right, began the running fight which only termi- nated upon the relief of the British at Lexington by reinforcements under Lord Percy. As the route proceeds toward Lexington, it passes, on the left, a large pyramidal monument which marks the place where Paul Revere's famous ride ended. Here, at about two o'clock on the morning of the 19th of April, i775. with two companions who had joined him on his way from Chariestown, Revere was halted by a British patrol. After leaping the wall with his horse and attempting to reach the wood, Revere was captured and taken back to Lexington, where he was soon released. At a natural redoubt on the left, a tablet marks the position of a stand which was made on the retreat. 294 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 85.5 The route now turns to the left and reaches 86.7 Lexington. Here upon the common, the first stand was made by the minute-men and here they were first fired upon by the regulars. The ivy-clad monument is probably the first memorial of the Revolution erected in the country. Besides this there are on the common a boulder monument marking the line of the minute-men; Pulpit Rock, which marks the site of the first three meeting-houses in the town; an elm behind this rock, which was planted by Gen. Grant at the centennial celebration of the battle ; and the Minute- man, the statue of Capt. John Parker, who com- manded the men from Lexington. This statue which surmounts the Hayes Memorial Fountain, stands at the end of the common, facing the line of the British advance from Boston. Opposite the Minute-man on the left, is the Buckman Tavern, which was the headquarters of the Continental soldiers on the day of the battle. Samuel Adams and John Hancock, who were aroused by Revere, were sleeping in a house which is somewhat off the main route on Hancock street, which leads from the common near the boulder monument. In this house also visiting was Dorothy Quincy, who soon after became Hancock's wife. 86.9 Leaving the Minute-man, the route proceeds down Massachusetts avenue, passing, On the left, at the High School, a stone cannon which stands where Lord Percy planted one of his field pieces to protect the retreat from Concord. A little below this, on the right, is the Munroe Tavern, which was the headquarters of Lord Percy 296 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS The route now continues through East Lexington and Arlington Heights to Arlington, passing at fre- quent intervals and particularly in Arlington, tablets marking the location of various houses and the scene of various events on the day of the battle. 91.6 At the center of Arlington the Public Library is on the right and, a little beyond, the old Cooper Tavern is on the left. If it is desired to avoid Boston and continue along the shore road to Salem and Portsmouth, a turn to the left may be made at the Cooper Tavern. This route is described on page 60. 94.2 Continuing straight on Massachusetts avenue toward Boston, the route bears to the right above the railroad at Porter square. Cambridge. Continuing on Massachusetts avenue, we reach the common, on the right. Here is a statue of John Bridge, an early settler. Looking across the common, in line with the church, we see the ancient elm beneath which Washington took command of the Continental army. The common was the training place of this army of the Revolution as it had previously been of the earliest settlers. A tablet within the common, near the street, marks the spot where, in 1630, stood an ancient oak under which were held Colonial elections. The tree under which this tablet stands, is a scion of the Washington elm. The flagpole at the left is erected in memory of the suffering and fortitude of the men and women of Cambridge during the Revolution. Over be- IN NORTHERN MASSACHUSETTS 297 yond the flagpole are two tablets, one of which marks the birthplace of Oliver Wendell Holmes. At the apex of the subway entrance, on the left, is a statue of Charles Sumner. 95.3 On the left are the grounds of Harvard Univer- sity along which the route follows, curving to the left at Harvard square. 97.0 Continuing still with Massachusetts avenue, the route passes through Central square, Cambridge, crosses Harvard Bridge over the Charles River, and enters fBoston. A left turn on Commonwealth avenue and a right on Dartmouth street, brings one to Copley square, 98 miles. Continued to New London on page 310- For Plymouth and Fall River see page 299. For Springfield see page 256. Home of the Presidents of Harvard College for 120 years XVI Through the Old Colony and Beyond (1) Boston to Fall River via Plymouth, 110 Miles (2) Boston to New London, 118.5 Miles Described in reverse direction in Chapter V To one who is accustomed to travel between Boston and New York by the Shore Line trains, there seems at first thought to be but one natural route to follow in making the trip by automobile; namely, that which reaches New London by way of Providence. This is probably the route which is most frequently used, but is the one in regard to which we shall have the least to say. It is not because we desire to avoid the beaten path that this route is omitted from our itinerary, for our work is confessedly an exposition of the main lines of travel, but because the routes chosen have appealed so much more strongly as being recreative rather than commercial. Speaking comparatively, the Providence route offers a continuous line of nearly eight miles of city streets through Pawtucket and Providence, while the road which we have chosen as our main line, finds its most congested traffic in the smaller city of Fall River and adds as an attraction, a visit to Newport and a trip by ferry across Narragansett Bay, which is altogether charming if not too frequently repeated. The introductory route by way of Plymouth and Cape Cod Canal, speaks for itself. 298 THROUGH THE OLD COLONY 299 Boston to Plymouth and Fall River, 110 Miles Described in reverse on pages 86-99 Map on pages 48-49 o. Leaving Copley square, Boston, the route runs north on Dartmouth street to Commonwealth avenue, where it turns to the left. At Charlesgate West*, it turns to the left into the Fenway and keep- ing around to the right, runs to the end of Boylston street. 1.8 Here the route crosses Brookline avenue diag- onally, and enters the River way, which with other parts of the Metropolitan Parkway system is fol- lowed for about three miles. On the corner at the left is Miss Wheelock^s School for the training of kindergarten teachers. The medallion over the entrance represents Froebel instructing a group of children whose faces are those of children of graduates of the school. 2.1 On the left is the Winsor School. 2.5 On the left ahead, is Parker Hill, with a large hospital on its summit. 3.2 Leverett Pond is at the right and the Little Wanderers' Home on the left. 4. Jamaica Pond is on the right. 4.9 On the right is the Arnold Arboretum, in which is located Bussey Institute, an activity of Harvard University. The Arboretum contains extensive collections of growing plants and trees. 5.5 Passing under the steam and elevated railroads at Forest Hills, the route enters Morton street 300 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS and runs between Franklin Park on the left, and Forest Hills cemetery on the right. 6.6 On the right is Pierce farm, and on the left Austin farm, both city institutions. Keeping straight through on Morton street the route reaches 9. Milton Lower Mills. Here, on both sides of the road at the crossing of the Neponset River, are the factories of the Baker Chocolate Company. Upon ascending the hill beyond, the view at the left includes Boston Harbor and a part of the North Shore. At the extreme left, the tower of Boston Custom House is seen. II. East Milton. The railroad which is crossed at this point is about on the location of the first railroad (horse-drawn) in this country, built in 1826 to transport stone from the Quincy quarries for the construction of Bunker Hill Monument. Passing through the village, a stone water tower crowns Forbes Hill on the left and some of the Quincy granite quarries are seen at the right. 1 1.9 On the right the stone bearing a tablet is an ancient mile-stone set by one James Neal. 12.7 At the entrance to Quincy, on the left at the corner of Newport avenue, and just before cross- ing the railroad, is a long old-fashioned house with many chimneys. This is the so-called "Golden Wedding House,'' in which were celebrated the golden weddings of John Adams, John Quincy Adams and Charles Francis Adams. THROUGH THE OLD COLONY 301 13. As the route bears to the right Adams Academy stands on the right at the junction of Hancock street. This is the site of the birthplace of John Hancock. To visit the mansion of the Quincy family (A mile), turn about on Hancock street, and follow the trolley line. The mansion is .on the right next the High School. Here was born " Dorthy Q.," the wife of John Hancock. 13.2 Continuing down Hancock street to the center of Quincy, the "Stone Temple'^ stands in the fork of the roads. This is the Unitarian church, in which are buried the two Presidents, John Adams, and John Quincy Adams. The structure derives its name from the fact that it is built of material taken from a quarry given to the town by John Adams with the request that the stone be used for a "Temple." One-half mile down Hancock street is Christ Church on the left, at the corner of Elm street. Before this church is a curious fountain embellished with figures and texts in the manner of a wayside shrine. To visit the homes of the two pres- idents (open to visitors), turn to the right opposite this fountain, with the trolley. Pass Adams School and turn ^ ^ to the left on Franklin street. The ^\|presidents houses are then on the right at the \a\5 t)ouse junction of Franklin street, and In- dependence avenue. 13.2 Continuing on the main route, the road passes the " Stone Temple" on the right, the library on the left and the Post Office on the right. 302 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 1 5. 1 Weymouth Fore River. From the bridge, the Fore River Shipbuilding Works, where many battleships have been constructed, are on the right. 16.3 Bicknell square, North Weymouth, is passed, on the right. At the left, on a slight elevation by the road is a little gambrel roofed house believed to be the birthplace of Abigail Smith, the wife of John Adams. 17.2 Crossing Weymouth Back River, the route enters 19.4 Hingham, another Colonial town. The route does not cross the railroad. To visit the "01d| Ship," which is the oldest church edifice in New England, built in 1681, cross the tracks at the station. The church stands just beyond, on an eleva- tion at the left, by the cemetery. As the belfry is over the center of the church, the bell rope hangs in the middle of the auditorium. 22.1 Keeping straight ahead the route now enters the famous ''Jerusalem road" bordered by elegant estates, and passing Straits Pond on the left, soon overlooks the open sea. Across Massachusetts Bay at the left, the line of the North Shore is seen stretching down toward Cape Ann, and at the extreme left, is the Nantasket Peninsula. 23.6 Directly ahead, alone in the sea, stands Minot's Ledge lighthouse. Either turning to the right at a stone watering trough or keeping farther along the shore around the pond-like "Little Harbor" the route enters 26. Cohasset, and passes the green with its quaint church. THROUGH THE OLD COLONY 303 .7.4 This neighborhood is beHeved to be the home of the ancestors of Abraham Lincoln. On the right a httle above the road are two old houses still in possession of the Lincoln family. The little house standing back from the road was built by Mordecai Lincoln, the first of the line in this country, for his son Isaac. Thejiouse of Mordecai still stands at the left over beyond the mill. 27.6 Here too, on the banks of the pond-like Bound Brook, at the left, stands the stone marking the ancient boundary between the colonies of Plymouth and Massachusetts Bay. 28.1 The route now crosses the railroad at North Scituate, and passes through the village of Egypt (29.), to 32. Greenbush. This was the birthplace of Samuel Woodworth, the author of "The Old Oaken Bucket." The road turns sharply to the right about "the wide spreading pond," and "the mill that stood by it, " built in 1640, is on the left. The cottage, with its old well sweep is one-half mile off the main route, the third house at the left on Pond street. 33. After crossing North River by Little's bridge, either the road straight ahead through Marshfield Hills, or that at the left, may be taken. The road at the left is the better. Marshfield. This was one of the homes of Daniel Webster, and is the place of his burial. 39.2 In the open triangle at the church, where the route turns to the right, is a monument to the statesman. 304 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 42.5 Passing through the village of Millbrook, the towers of the wireless station at Duxbury are seen at the left. 43.5 A church and burial ground are passed on the right, in the woods. The monument in the fork of the roads on the left is at a private burial place. The road to the left at this point leads to South Duxbury, where the homes of John Alden and Myles Standish are located. 44. The Myles Standish Monument, surmounted by a figure of the captain, is seen at the left on Captains* Hill, South Duxbury, and on approach- ing Kingston, glimpses are obtained of Kingston Bay and Plymouth Harbor. 46.8 At the entrance to Kingston, on the left, behind the present houses, was the home of William Brad- ford, the second Governor of the Colony. To visit the site, turn to the left just before reaching the railroad, and again to the left on Bradford lane. The site of the house is marked. 47.2 Kingston. The railroad is crossed at the station and the route bears to the left through the town. 49.5 The works of the Plymouth Cordage Company are on the left. t Plymouth. Among the points of interest in • this ancient town the following may be readily visited in passing through : National Monument to the forefathers. This is seen on the right upon entering the town and is reached by turning to the right on Cushman street, and thence to the right on Allerton street. From the hill on which the monument is located there is a fine view. THROUGH THE OLD COLONY 305 Pilgrim Hall. This is on the left at the corner of Court (main) and Chilton streets. The hall contains a valuable collection of relics pertaining to the early days of the colon}^ and the men and women who founded it. Many of the articles are intimately connected with the lives of those who came in the Mayflower. Three blocks beyond Pilgrim Hall, we may turn to the left on North street, at the foot of which is Plymouth Rock. The great linden trees on the right as we drive down the street are more than lOO years old. Opposite the rock, is Cole's Hill, the site of the first burial place of the Pilgrims. This is the hill which was sown with grain after the first winter so that the Indians might not be able to count the graves and thus understand how weak the colony had become. From the Rock, we may run eastward along the shore and take the first turn to the right on Leyden street. Here were built the first houses of the town. At the head of the street is Town square, in which are located the Town Hall, the Church of the Pilgrimage and First Church. At the head of the square is the main entrance to the ancient burial place of the colony, in which are stones running back to 1681. 52. Running east from Town square, the route affords fine views of the harbor and Duxbury Bay. The long spit of land making out from the northern shore and terminated by the Gurnet lights, is Duxbury Beach. The route passes over Manomet Hill. When descending the hill (56.4) a glimpse of Cape Cod is had across the bay ahead. 57.7 Passing through the village of Manomet, the route skirts Fresh Pond, at the end of the trolley line (59.5) While most of this section is covered with young growth and scrub oaks, there are 306 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS occasional cranberry bogs by the road and a few views of Cape Cod Bay and the Cape beyond. 62. Here is the best view obtained of the Bay and Cape. Two miles beyond is another view, broad, but not as satisfactory as the former on account of the lack of elevation. 64.8 A third view which will probably be only a glimpse, is while ascending a hill through the woods. 66. On the right a glimpse is obtained of Great Herring Pond. 69.1 At Sagamore the route reaches Cape Cod Canal, a project which was proposed in early Colonial days but was not carried to completion until 19 14. This canal, which is about eight miles in length, saves some sixty miles of dangerous navigation between Boston and New York. At Sagamore the canal may be crossed by a drawbridge, and the southern bank followed. At the time of writing (fall 19 14) a road on the northern side of the canal, somewhat shorter than the former, is not entirely completed. The route however follows this northern road. Straight across the bridge leads to Cape Cod points. 69.1 Turning to the right, with the canal, the car shops at Sagamore are on the left. 73.5 At the left is the Bourne Town Hall with a Soldiers' monument before it. 74.1 Buzzards Bay station is on the left. From this point the line of the route is full of sharp turns, as it follows a zigzag course along the inlets and through the shore resorts of Buzzards Bay. THROUGH THE OLD COLONY 307 74.5 Turning sharply to the left the route crosses the outlet of Buttermilk Bay. Over at the left is the estate of General Taylor, chief owner of the Boston Globe. 74.8 At the bridge over the railroad, is a view of part of Buzzards Bay. Grey Gables, the former home of President Cleveland, may be seen about two miles down the Bay, but is not readily dis- tinguished from other cottages. 76.3 Crossing the bridge at the head of Onset Bay, the route enters Onset, a summer resort, and passes through the center of the village. 78. The route crosses the railroad at Onset Junction, passes East Wareham Post Office just beyond, and at the end of the road turns to the right and crosses Agawam River, which at this point is a pond on the right and a small stream on the left. The road now runs along the course of the river and crossing it twice, enters 80.4 Wareham. Having crossed the railroad, the route turns to the right through the town. 81. In the center of the town the route turns sharply to the left and runs to 86.4 t Marion, which is located on Sippican Harbor. Here is an important wireless sending station of the Marconi Company, which works direct with Norway. The messages are sent mechanically, at the rate of about 100 words per minute. The receiving station is located at Chatham, on Cape Cod, twenty miles away. The Sippican, a summer hotel, overlooks the bay. 308 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Entering the town on Front street the route turns to the right on Main street, and to the left on Mattapoisett road. 91. Mattapoisett. The route runs through the village with views at the left over Mattapoisett Harbor. Crossing the railroad, the route follows the trolley line to 96. fFairhaven (Pop. 5,000). This was the birth- place and a residence of Henry H. Rogers, of the Standard Oil Company, whose connection with the town accounts in great measure for the unusual character of the public buildings, which should be visited. At the beginning of the paving the route turns to the left on Rotch street and to the right on Center street. At the left on Center street is the Rogers School, Tabitha Inn, the Unitarian Memo- rial Church, a magnificent structure whose property occupies an entire square, and the Millicent (memorial) Library. Opposite the library is the Post Office. Turning to the right beyond the street where the electric cars turn, we reach the entrance to the New Bedford bridge, at which point the High School of Fairhaven is on the right. 97. Crossing the great bridges over the broadened mouth of the Acushnet River, the route enters New Bedford (Pop. 96,600). This was formerly a great whaling center and is still a maritime city though its interests are centered in manufactur- ing rather than trading. It is now the seat of more than forty cotton mills, many of which with other THROUGH THE OLD COLONY 309 manufactories are in view from the bridges. There is a large Portuguese population. At the end of the bridges the route bears to the right along a small park and enters High street. Crossing Purchase, which is the main business street of the city, the route turns to the right, one block beyond on Pleasant, and then to the left on Mill street. From this point the route hes straight ahead to Fall River. I oo. Passing through the village of North Dartmouth over a roUing country, the spires of Fall River are soon seen ahead on the right, St. Anne's Church standing out with particular prominence. 103.2 Westport Factory. On the right is Lincoln Park, an amusement resort. At the left a road leads across country toward New- port, but it is poor and rough throughout its twelve-mile length, while the road by way of Fall River is excellent except within the city limits. 107.4. Crossing the causeway between North and South Watuppa Ponds the road enters 1 10.4 Fall River (Pop. 119.000). This is the greatest cotton milling city in America. The Quequechan River which runs from the Watuppa Ponds has a fall of 127 feet in one-half mile, and furnishes power for the many cotton mills which line its banks. The route runs on Pleasant street, straight to the City Hall where it joins the direct route from Boston. See page 314 for continuation to Newport and New London. 310 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Boston to Newport and New London, 118.5 Miles Reverse of route described on pages 70-85 See map, pages 48-49 o. Leaving Copley square, Boston, the route runs north on Dartmouth street to Commonwealth avenue, where it turns to the left. At Charlesgate West it turns to the left into the Fenway and keeping around to the right, runs to the end of Boylston street. 1.8 Here the route crosses Brookline avenue diag- onally and enters the Riverway, which, with other parts of the Metropolitan Parkway system is followed for about three miles. On the corner at the left is Miss Wheelock's School for the training of kindergarten teachers. The medallion over the entrance represents Froebel instructing a group of children, whose faces are those of children of graduates of the school. 2.1 On the left is the Winsor School. 2.5 On the left ahead, is Parker Hill, with a large hospital on its summit. 3.2 Leverett Pond is at the right and the Little Wanderers' Home on the left. 4. Jamaica Pond is on the right. 4.9 On the right is the Arnold Arboretum in which is located Bussey Institute, an activity of Har- vard University. The Arboretum contains exten- sive collections of growing plants and trees. 5.5 Passing under the steam and elevated railroads at Forest Hills, the route enters Morton street THROUGH THE OLD COLONY 311 and runs between Franklin Park, on the left, and Forest Hills Cemetery on the right. 6.6 On the right is Pierce farm and on the left Austin farm, both city institutions for the care of the insane. 7.5 Turning to the right on Blue Hill avenue the route crosses the Neponset River at 8.7 Mattapan and enters the parkway at the left. 9.9 At the end of the parkway the route bears to the right and ascends the approach to Blue Hills through a part of Milton. 1 2. 1 The entrance to Blue Hill Reservation and the path to the summit are on the left. The view from the top of Great Blue Hill is excellent in every direction and embraces a great variety of scenery, including the sea, the forests of the Reservation, the city, and many of its suburbs. 14. A look backward brings an attractive view of Great Blue Hill with the weather-forecasting station on its summit. Ahead at the right the town of Canton is seen in the valley. 14.6 While descending the grade through Ponkapoag village the route bears to the left leaving the main road to Canton, and passes over a rolling turnpike to Stoughton. This road runs for a long distance through an entirely uninhabited section which it seems strange to find so near Bostgn. The only town upon the route for about fifteen miles is 19. Stoughton. In the center of the town the route bears to the right. 312 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 21.5 Over at the right are seen the spires of North Easton. 23. After passing through a prominent four-corners, the road is bordered on both sides by the grounds of one of the Ames estates, of which there are several in this vicinity. 25. Passing through the scattered village of South Easton, and the Great Cedar Swamp some three miles beyond, the road crosses the railroad at 3 1 . Raynham station and enters 35.2 Taunton (Pop. 34,000). Here are large manu- factories of stoves and furnaces. On the right at the center of the city is the green, on which is a monument marking the spot where, on October 25, 1786, General David Cobb with 400 troops defeated a body of insurgents in Shay's RebelHon. Here also in 1774 (before the battle of Lexington) the citizens of Taunton raised a flag bearing the inscription, "Liberty and Union." On the left, opposite the green, on the site now occupied by the National Bank, stood the house of Robert Treat Paine, a signer of the Declaration of Independence. 35.6 Keeping straight through by the green, the route enters Weir street, bearing to the right at Grace Church into Somerset avenue. (See map, pages 80-81.) 38.5 The cegiter of the village of North Dighton is at the right. 39. Crossing Three Mile River the road passes through the village of Segreganset and enters THROUGH THE OLD COLONY 313 41.5 Dighton. This place is famous as the location of Dighton Rock, which bears upon its face rude hieroglyphics which have been attributed by dif- ferent authorities to the Norsemen, the Phoenicians and the American Indians. The rock is not entirely satisfactory as a point of interest for the inscrip- tions are indistinct, the rock is partly covered at high tide and in fact is quite inaccessible to the tourist, being located on the eastern side of the broad Taunton River. The location is directly opposite the end of the street as the route turns to the right along the river. 43.2 On the left is Dighton Rock Park. 44.2 Crossing an arm of Taunton River, the route proceeds with many pleasing views through the villages of Somerset and Pottersville. 49 . 2 About a mile after coming in view of the city the route crosses Taunton River and enters Fall River (Pop. 119,000). This is the largest cotton manufacturing center in the United States. There are in the city about 800 manufactunng plants of various kinds. The Queqtiechan River, two miles in length, flows through the center of the city with a fall of nearly 130 feet in one-half mile. The great mills are crowded along its course. The route enters the city on Davol street, on which it continues beyond the railroad station. At the gasometer it turns to the left under the railroad and immediately to the right on Durfee street. At the Armory, with the Textile High School opposite, it turns to the left and then to the right on Main street. 314 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 51. The City Hall, on the left, is built directly over the Quequechan River, which crosses beneath Main Street at this point. By the side of City Hall is a fountain, the gift of Henry G. Coggswell of San Francisco, who in 1833 as a boy, "marched to the music of the bell." This was also the scene of the battle of Fall River, a minor engagement of the war of the Revolution. The route from New Bedford comes in on the left at City Hall by Pleasant street. 51.6 Proceeding south on Main street, the route reaches South Park, on the right. Opposite this is the great St. Anne's Church and college, which is a landmark throughout this region. A little beyond this point, the route bears to the right, still on South Main street. 53.5 While the route is apparently still within the city it in fact leaves the State, slipping over the line into Rhode Island at State avenue. 56. From the ridge below the city where the eleva- tion is about 200 feet above the sea, the view at the right extends over Mt. Hope Bay to Bristol, R. I. The road now descends through the village of 57.4 Tiverton, crosses the Stone Bridge (now of steel), and the causeway, and enters the Island of Aquidneck or Rhode Island, at the lower end of which is Newport. The island is about fifteen miles long. 62. From the summit of Quaker Hill the prospect is most attractive. Below at the left is the Sakonne "River" with the "Stone Bridge" at its head, and above the bridge is Fall River. THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 315 Continuing through the length of the island the route passes many of the older estates with their roomy grounds and farms, and runs through Middletown. This town is rather unique in that it contains no village whatever, being made up wholly of large estates. The route now enters 70. tNewport, and passing the Soldiers' monument, on the left, reaches the center of the city. The attention of the casual tourist will naturally be directed from the points of purely historical interest, of which there are many on the island, to the features which make of Newport a Mecca. Guides are numerous, but place high value upon their services. The tour of the * ' cottage' ' settlement should be made in any event, and the longer drive around the shore should be taken if time permits. Among the notable historical points is the old State House, which is at the center of the city near the Perry Monument on Washington square. The Old Stone Mill, the construction of which has been variously ascribed to the Norsemen and the eariy EngHsh settlers, is reached by turning to the left around the Perry Monument and bear- ing to the right up grade at the rear of the old State House. The old mill stands in a park at the right. Longfellow, in "The Skeleton in Armor," makes this the bower and memorial of a Viking's wife. Here also are monuments to Commodore Matthew C. Perry, who concluded the treaty which opened Japan to commerce and to William Ellery Channing, who was born in Newport in 1780. 316 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Before reaching the "Mill" the Jewish Cemetery is passed on the left, and also the Redwood Library, which was established in 1750. The opening scenes of James Fenimore Cooper's "Red Rover" are laid in this vicinity. 70. The exit from Newport is by way of a double ferry across Narragansett Bay. The trip occupies an hour and furnishes a pleasant diversion to the occasional traveler. To reach the ferry, keep straight by the Perry Monument, turn to the left on Thames street, and to the right at the ferry slip. 70.3 Ferry. Directly ahead at the ferry house is the U. S. Torpedo Station on Goat Island, with its great wireless equipment. At the left, apparently on Goat Island, but really on the main island, is Fort Adams, which was originally built during the administration of John Adams. As the boat turns to the right to pass around Goat Island the buildings of the War College are ahead on the main island. Upon rounding the island, a better view is obtained of Fort Adams. On the right is Rose Island, on which are located magazines for the storage of powder. The Island of Conanicut, which contains the town of Jamestown, is nine miles in length. Many large hotels are seen as the boat approaches the shore. From the ferry slip the route makes a slight jog to the right and then runs straight across the island, which is about a mile in width, to another ferry. From this second ferry. Fort Greble, on Dutch Island, is directly ahead. At this island the boat THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 317 frequently stops and then rounding the head of the island affords an excellent view of the fort, Plum Beach on the mainland being directly ahead. At the left, on the mainland is St. John's Church. 71. Saunderstown. Ascending the hill from the ferry, the route turns to the left, on the main road from Providence. The views from the ridge which carries the road, are wide and attractive, looking out over Narragansett Bay on the left, and em- bracing Jamestown (Conanicut) Island. 72.5 St. John's Church is seen on the left. As the road turns to the right, straight ahead is McSparren Hill, where lived Rev. Dr. McSparren, the rector of the first Episcopal church in New England. Between the ridge carrying the road and this hill lies Narrow or Pettaquamscott River, near the head of which was born Gilbert Stuart, the chief painter of portraits of General Washington. 75.6 Tower Hill, overlooking Narragansett Pier, is ahead, and Narragansett Pier itself. 76.1 Crossing the outlet of Narrow River with Tower Hill straight ahead, the road soon enters 77.4 t Narragansett Pier. Almost at the entrance of the town the route turns to the right and leaves it. To visit the Casino, hotels and beach, keep straight ahead, turning at the first left and then right, through an archway passing in front of the hotels, the largest of which is The Mathewson. Upon leaving Narragansett Pier, the route makes a detour to the west and north, before re- suming its way down the shore. 79.5 Wakefield. 318 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 82.5 One-half mile at the right is the birthplace of Commodore Perry. This is the old Potter place where 100 slaves were kept. Here, too, is an ex- cellent view of the ocean across Point Judith Pond, and occasional glimpses of Point Judith light. 83.6 The square tower on the right is a private water tower. On the left is a memorial fountain to Margaret Weeden, "who lived on this farm from 1826 to 1863 and brought this water here." Passing through the village of Perryville. the road traverses long stretches of open country with many views of the sea. 87. The view looks across Charlestown Pond. This is one of a series of lagoons which line the coast of Rhode Island from Point Judith to Watch Hill, and is separated from the open ocean only by the narrow strip of sand known as Charlestown Beach. This is frequently seen in the next few miles, and the roar of the surf may often be plainly heard from the road. 89.1 Pass the old General Stanton Inn on the right. 89.9 A little north of the village of Charlestown, is an Indian burial place and fort. 92.8 The road skirts the lower end of Charlestown Pond. 94.3 On the left is a monument erected by the State to General Joseph Stanton, Jr., the first U. S. Senator from Rhode Island under the constitution. The road now leaves the shore and bears away toward Westerly, which, with its granite quarries, soon comes into view. THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 319 101.4 Westerly (Pop. 8,700). Passing directly through the town with the Court House on the left and the High School, Library and Post Office on the right, the route crosses the Pawcatuck River and enters the State of Connecticut. 104.5 Wequetequock Village, at the head of the cove of the same name, is the site of the first white settlement in this section, which was made by William Chesebrough in 1649. 105.4 At the right g impses may be had of jWatch Hill, with its numerous hotels and summer houses. In the waters a little west of Watch Hill, is the intersection of the State lines of Rhode Island, Connecticut and New York. 106.7 The route enters the borders of Stonington only to turn away with scarcely more than a glimpse of the town. This was a great whaling center in the old days, and from here the Stonington Line of steamers ran to New York. 107.3 Crossing an arm of Stonington Harbor the road ascends enough of an elevation to furnish excellent views over the ocean. 108.8 At Lord's Point the view seaward is over Fisher's Island Sound (through which the Connect- icut-New York State line runs), Fishers Island, N. Y. and Block Island Sound beyond. 109.4. On the left is a lighthouse, placed at a rather unusual distance from the shore. III. The route now enters Mystic and turning to the left at the Soldiers' monument passes directly through the town. Apparently a unit, this is really a divided community, Mystic and West 320 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Mystic being separated by the river. Furthermore there is no town here by the name of Mystic, the first village being a part of Stonington and the second belonging to Groton. Pequot Hill, which lies directly ahead, was the scene of the decisive overthrow of the Pequot Indians in 1637, which preserved the settlements from destruction. On the summit of the hill is a statue of Major John Mason, who led the fight. The account of the "battle" reads, at this distant time, like that of a wholesale murder. The Indians were surprised in their sleep, the town was set on fire and 600 were burned or shot. Morton, in his New England Memorial, says: "It was a fearful sight. . . but the victory seemed a sweet sacrifice." 1 1 1.3 Crossing Mystic River the route turns to the left with the car tracks, and at a brick factory a little beyond, turns to the right up the long steep grade of the southern extension of Pequot Hill. From the top of this grade the view at the left includes Fisher's Island, the mouth of Mystic River and the village of Noank. Upon descending this hill the road at once begins the ascent of Fort Hill, the long line of which stretches across the route ahead. This is the site of the fort of Sassacus, the sachem of the Pequots who, upon learning of the destruction of the town on Pequot Hill, marched to its relief and gave Major Mason a real battle. Sassacus was defeated and fled beyond the Hudson, a remnant of the tribe being pursued as far as Southport, Conn. THE NARRAGANSETT COUNTRY 321 1 13.8 At the top of Fort Hill is an old enclosed burial place of the Burrows family, from the wall of which is obtained the best view in this region. On the left lies Stonington and Watch Hill. Straight ahead to the south, is the long line of Fisher's Island, above which are the cliffs on Montauk Point, L. I. On the right is the mouth of the Thames, the monument at Groton and the spires of New London. The site of the Indian fort is said to be a little to the south of this burial place, between it and a more modern cemetery which is just below. 114. Beginning the descent of the hill the road turns sharply to the right. 1 15.2 On the left, as the trolley line comes in, is Groton Town Hall, thus situated in the open coun- try to meet the convenience of the widely separated villages which make up the town. 1 1 6. 1 After passing through the village of Poquon- nock Bridge, the road turns to the left with the trolley line, and runs beneath the railroad. Here on the right is a monument on "the site of the home built in 1656 by Capt. James Avery, the founder of the family known as the Groton A very s. This Hive of the A very s was owned and occupied by its valiant builder until his death. Its ownership and occupancy passed in regular order of descent from father to son until it was burned on the night of July 20, 1894, Hinc illcE lacrimce.*^ 118. Following the trolley line the route enters Groton, bearing to the right along the Thames River, with Fort Trumbull on the New London shore. The Griswold, at Eastern Point, is reached by a left turn down the river. 322 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS On the heights at the right is the monument to the miUtia massacred at Fort Griswold in the Revolution. As the road approaches the ferry it passes, on a corner at the right, the Avery house, where the wounded were cared for during the Fort Griswold fight. Crossing the ferry, the route reaches 1 18.5 fNew London (Pop. 19,600). The stretch of the river above the railroad bridge is the scene of the Yale-Harvard boat races. New London was formerly a whaling center and the water-front is still a busy place, with steamboat lines to New York, Fisher's Island and other points along the shore. This is also the terminus of the New London & Northern railroad, now a part of the Grand Trunk System. For the points of interest in New London, see page 68. Upon leaving the ferry, the route crosses the railroad at the station and enters State, which is the main street of the city. At the Soldiers' monument just beyond, the route to New Haven leaves at the left on Bank street. (See page 324.) The Shore and The Griswold at Eastern Point, Conn. "West Rock," New Haven, Conn. XVII Along the Sound (1) New London to New Haven, 53 Miles (2) New Haven to New York, 73 Miles From New London to New Haven, the country is rolling, pleasantly wooded and generally attractive, affording as it does many views of the Sound and passing through a number of delightful villages. The route will be especially pleasing to those who are interested in old-time places, for there is probably no stretch of road of equal length in New England where there are standing so many houses of the Colonial period. In the town of Guilford alone, there are more than eighty of these old landmarks which were built before the war of the Revolution. Along the route were made some of the earliest settlements in Connecticut, Saybrook having been founded in 1635, and most of the other towns during the succeeding fifty years. 323 324 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS New London to New Haven, 53 Miles Described in reverse direction on pages 63-68 o. fNew London. Leaving the "Parade" at the Soldiers' Monument, the route runs southwest on Bank street, passing the Custom House on the left and on the right two Colonial houses which attract immediate attention. The first of these is the home of the Elks, and the second that of the New London County Historical Society. This latter was the Perkins mansion, in which Washington and Lafayette were entertained. Continuing on Bank street the route soon leaves the city and crosses the township of Waterford. 6.8 Making a double crossing of the Niantic River, at the head of the tidewater, the route enters 7.7 Flanders Village or East Lyme. This is about halfway between New York and Boston, on the railroad, the meeting point of the through expresses being on the long curve at the mouth of Niantic River. On the right is East Lyme school farm. 9. The lower end of Pataguanset Lake is passed on the right. 10.7 The road is bordered on both sides by the M. F. Plant game preserve. 16. fOld Lyme, was the birthplace of Chief Justice Waite. Here gathers an artist colony which has its headquarters in one of the many fine old houses which line the village street. 17. The route does not enter this delightful village, but at its entrance turns to the right and crosses a long toll bridge over the Connecticut River. The ALONG THE SOUND 825 mouth of the river is some three miles below. The site of the primitive ferry which, until a few years ago, was the only means of crossing the river is seen below the bridge. 19.7 The route now enters f Old Saybrook and runs a short distance down the wide main street. 20.3 On the left, opposite the corner where the route turns to the right with the trolley line, is an old red mile-stone, "Hartford 41." A short distance down the main street on the right, is the first church which was organized in the "Great Hall" of the fort in 1646. At Saybrook Point, a mile and a half below, and at the left, is the site of the first location of Yale College, marked by a boulder, and in the Point Cemetery is the unlettered and transplanted tomb of Lady Fenwick, who died about 1648. The summer hotel at this point is called Fenwick Hall. 20.3. Continuing on the main route, the road soon approaches the shore, giving the first of many views of Long Island Sound with Long Island itself just visible on the horizon, about fifteen miles away. Between here and Guilford there are several excellent beaches just off the route. 24. Passing through the town of Westbrook the road crosses Menanketesuck River (25.2), passes near Grove Beach and enters 28. Clinton. This is a deHghtful Colonial town. In front of the Morgan School, on the right, are the statues of Charles Morgan, the founder of the school, and "the good and learned Abraham 326 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Pierson, ". first president of Yale College, 1 701-1707, and pastor of Killing worth (now Clinton) Church. 28.2 On the right is a large well-kept Colonial house adjoining the green. This is the Stanton house, in which is contained the John Stanton collection of Connecticut antiquities. 28.3 Just beyond is a monument, surmounted by a group of books, marking the place where the earliest senior classes of Yale College were taught by Rector Pierson. The college at this time was nominally located at Saybrook, but as President Pierson refused to go there, the students were obliged to come to him. 28.7 On the right is the railroad station and the home of Pond's Extract. 29.8 The road crosses the Hammonasset River. 31. On the right is Meig's Lodge, a building of strange appearance, the purpose and contents of which are variously described by the people of this section. It appears to be the country resort of a New Haven clothier. 32.2 Madison. This is another Colonial town, its main street shaded by four rows of trees and lined with many old houses. At the center of the town, opposite the Post Office, is the Erastus Scranton Memorial Library. 32.7 On the right is the green and the Town Hall, with tablets containing the Civil War rolls. Cross- ing the railroad at East River station, the route enters ALONG THE SOUND 327 37.3 Guilford and passes on two sides of the green. At the corner opposite the green, now occupied by the Halleck hotel and stores, was the birthplace of the poet Fitz-Greene Halleck, and here he lived during the latter years of his life. In Guilford also was born W. H. H. ("Adirondack") Murray, and here the regicides were hidden, neither place being on the route. To visit the (free) historical museum owned by the State and lodged in one of the oldest houses (1639) in New England, turn square left, opposite the Halleck house, on Whitfield street. The Old Stone House, as it is called, is on the left, less than one-half mile down the street. For map of this section, see pages 16-17. The route now runs through a pleasant rolling country to 45.8 Branford. Here, off the route, on Montowese street, is the site of the Russell Parsonage, where Yale College was formed. On the right, just beyond the business center of the town, is the Blackstone Memorial Library, said to be the finest building of its kind in Connect- icut. The library was given and endowed by Timothy B. Blackstone, formerly president of the Chicago & Alton railroad. The mural decorations are by Grover. 48.3 The lower end of Lake Saltonstall, the scene of early college boat races, is seen on the right. 49. The route now enters East Haven, passing the 49.3 "Old Stone Church'* on the right. Here the road turns nearly north and at Farren avenue bears to the left, and curving around to the left 50.8 Crosses the Quinnipiac River and enters 328 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 53. jNew Haven (Pop. 133,600). Upon reaching Chapel street, just beyond the bridge, the route turns to the left and follows that street through one of the least attractive sections to the green at the center of the city. This is the largest city of the State, and was formerly one of the capitals. The central feature of the city is Yale College, many of the buildings of which adjoin the green on its western side. This was the early center of the city and still holds its preeminence. At the north of the green are the Public Library and Court House ; on the east side are the City Hall and Post Office ; and in the center of the green are three churches: Trinity, Centre and United, all built a hundred years ago. Centre Church is built over a portion of the old graveyard and con- tains a crypt in which are 140 tombstones, all bearing dates prior to 1780. Behind the church is the original gravestone and a more modern moniiment to John Dixwell, one of the regicide judges of Charles I. Facing the Green is Hotel Taft. Straight ahead on Chapel street is the route to New York, see next page. The route to Springfield runs north through the green. (See page 27.) ALONG THE SOUND 329 New Haven to New York, 73 Miles Reverse of route described on pages 14-26 o. t New Haven. The Green. Running west on Chapel street with the buildings of Yale College on the right, the route passes, opposite Vanderbilt Hall, the house of Roger Sherman, a signer of the Declaration of Independence and the first mayor of New Haven. 0.4 At York street we turn to the left and run straight through to the hospital, where the route turns to the right on Davenport avenue. 1.5 Just beyond the end of this avenue, the road crosses West River bridge which was the scene of a Revolutionary engagement in 1779, in which the Colonial forces were worsted. Ascending the hill beyond this bridge, the road continues straight across country to 9. Milford. Bearing to the left under the railroad the route follows the trolley line. A little off the main road at the left is a Memorial bridge, which was erected to commemorate the 250th anniversary of the settlement of the town, but which is also a memorial to many individuals whose names are inscribed upon various stones of which the bridge is built. Milford was one of the many hiding places of the regicides. Passing the village green, on the right, the road soon leaves the town. At the right is a boulder and flag-pole. The stone is inscribed "Liberty, 1766" and is now called Liberty Rock, but whether the Sons of Liberty, as is suggested, really met here, is uncertain. 330 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 12.2 Crossing the Housatonic River, the road enters Stratford. This is a fine old town, with many- houses dating back to the time of the Revolution. The broad main street is shaded by rows of great elms which are the pride and glory of the town. 13.6 Upon reaching the main street, the route turns to the left and follows the trolley line, soon turning to the right (13.9) on the road to t Bridgeport (Pop. 102,000). On the outskirts of the city near the Roman Catholic cemetery, the route bears to the right on Connecticut avenue as a shorter way of reaching the city proper-. This is one of the greatest manufacturing cities in New England in point of the diversity of its products if nothing more. There seems to be no line in which the city specializes, and few lines that are not represented. In addition to this, it is the home of Barnum's Circus. Upon crossing two bridges, the first over an arm of the harbor and the second over Pequonnock River, the route passes beneath the railroad at the station (17.2), and proceeding straight ahead across Main street, continues on Fairfield avenue. The Stratfield is at the right on Main street. 17.8 At St. John's Episcopal Church, of stone, on the right, the route bears to the right. Here on the left, is a fountain to the memory of Nathaniel Wheeler, who was at the head of the Wheeler & Wilson Sewing Machine Company, from its foundation to the time of his death. The street at the left leads to Seaside Park, where there is a monument to Ellas Howe, another sewing ma- ALONG THE SOUND 331 chine pioneer, and to P. T. Barnum, whose residence dur- ing the later years of his life was near the park. As we continue beyond the church on Fairfield avenue, we pass, at the left, one of the several houses in which the great showman lived. The house is beyond Yale street, sets back from the road and has the figure of a sea-god before it. 18.3 Just beyond this, the route bears to the left. 19.2 After crossing beneath the railroad and passing the Burroughs Home for widows on the right and the Protestant Orphan Asylum on the left, the church spire at Black Rock village, is seen at the left. On the left, at the corner of Brewster street XX M is an old mile-stone bearing the inscription ^^ 21. Fairfield. Upon entering this old town, the Post Road from which we have been separated since entering Stratford, comes in from the right. This town was the subject of a serious attack by the British in the war of the Revolution, when 218 buildings were destroyed. Here, soon after the battle of Lexington, came Dorothy Quincy for her marriage to John Hancock, who was living here as a place of refuge from British displeasure. In front of the Town Hall, on the left, is a boulder monument commemorating the foundation of the town in 1639, and its burning by the British, July 8, 1779. 21.9 On the corner as the route turns to the right with the trolley line, is a stone set "by David Bar- low, the cidevant farmer, 1791." On the reverse is the inscription: "Reset by H. J. Beers, July 4, I8S5." 332 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 2 2.1 Near the railroad station, the route turns to the left, opposite the Memorial Library, and con- tinues with the trolley line to 23.4 Southport. Here the road turns sharply to the right beneath the railroad. 23.8 A short distance beyond this under-pass, after the road curves to the left, is a monument on the • left, marking the place where the Pequot War was ended in 1637. After the terrible blow inflicted upon the Indians at the Mystic hills beyond New London, the remnant of the savages fled along the shore of the Sound and were finally overtaken in this place which was then an almost impenetrable swamp and a stronghold of the Fairfield Indians. In the engagement which ensued, the remnant of the Pequot s was nearly annihilated. Over at the left is Green's Farms church and at the right by the roadside, Birge's Wells. 27.5 Westport. Descending the grade through this village, the route passes on the right at the corner where a branch trolley line comes in, the Old Stage Tavern, which was an important relay house in coaching days, and still carries the appearance of an old inn. 27.9 Immediately beyond, the Saugatuck River is crossed and the route ascends the hill straight ahead. 30.5 Norwalk. Upon entering this town the route turns to the left, and passing the green, on the right, winds to the right down the hill. At the end of the green, the road straight ahead leads, a little beyond the corner, to the Connecticut Military School on left, and the Revolutionary Watch Tower, nearby. ALONG THE SOUND 333 30.8 Part way down the hill, on the left, is what appears to be an old church with its adjacent church- yard, but which in reality is the Town Hall. 31. At the foot of the hill the route crosses the Nor- walk River, passes the old Norwalk Hotel, a Revolu- tionary Inn, on the right and bears to the left with the main trolley line. On the right, at the flagpole, is the library. 31.4 At an open triangle, the route turns to the right, leaves the trolley line, and, passing between a Memorial Fountain and the Armory, ascends the hill beyond. This fountain is a memorial to Nathan Hale, who is said to have embarked upon his secret service expedition to Long Island, from this town. On one side is the inscription: "The path of duty was the way to Glory," and on the other side is a bronze tablet * * given by the children of the town in loving memory of him whose last words were, 'I only regret that I have but one life to lose for my country.' " 31.6 Ascending the hill, with Norwalk hospital on the left, the road runs straight across country to 35.1 Darien. The square towered Congregational Church marks the scene of a disaster which befell the churchgoers on July 22, 1781, when all who were present at the service, including the minister, were taken captive by a party of tories and removed to Long Island. Here the road crosses under the railroad at the station and follows the trolley line across Noroton River to 39.5 Stamford (Pop. 25,000). This is an important 334 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS manufacturing place, among the products being the well-known Yale locks. The route avoids the business section of the city, running straight through with the City Hall on the left. Continuing with the trolley line the route crosses the Mianus River, at the village of the same name. 44.4 t Greenwich. At the approach to this town, the route ascends the hill at the spot which is the scene of the famous ride of Gen. Israel Putnam in escaping from the British soldiers who had surprised him while absent from his forces. The hill from this approach presents a line of cliffs extending at right angles to the line of the road and topped by fine residences. The present road probably runs on about the line of the long flight of steps which was cut or built up the face of the cliff for the use of churchgoers. The roadway has been filled at the base of the cliffs and cut at the top so that the ascent is neither so steep nor so long as at the time of Putnam's ride. The old road ran along the top of the rocks and made a winding S-like descent which crossed the present road line. It is supposed that Putnam rode down a cow-path which cut off the loops of this S, and not in fact down the old line of steps. At the top of the cHffs on the right, is a monument in the little Putnam Hill Park, marking the spot "where, on Feb. 26, 1779, Gen. Israel Putnam, cut off from his soldiers and pursued by British cavalry, galloped down this rocky steep and escaped, daring to lead where not one of many hun- dred foes dared to follow. ' ' A modern flight of steps has been cut down the face of the cliff' at this point. ALONG THE SOUND 335 Beyond the monument, on the right, is "Put- nam cottage,*' formerly the Knapp tavern, which is maintained as a Putnam Memorial, and is open to visitors at certain times. Although there seems to be some conflict of opinion as to the precise connection between Putnam and this house, it is safe to say that it had all the experiences of a Revolutionary tavern in a territory which was frequently visited by the soldiers of both armies. Opposite this "cottage" is the magnificent property of the Episcopal church. 44.7 On the right, at the Soldiers' monument, is the Second Congregational church, of which Rev. W. H. H. Murray, of Adirondack fame, was once the pastor. Millbank, the entrance to which is opposite this church, was once the residence of "Boss" Tweed. 45. Upon passing the Presbyterian church, on the right, the route keeps straight ahead on Putnam avenue, leaving the trolley line. 47. Upon crossing Byram River, the route leaves New England and enters New York. 48.1 Portchester (Pop. 12,800). At the lower end of the main street the route turns to the right, leaving the trolley line, and passes under the rail- road. Crossing over the railroad, the route enters 49.7 Rye and keeps straight ahead, passing a flagpole on the right and crossing the street railway in a long diagonal. (See map, page 12.) 336 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS Opposite the flagpole is the Municipal Hall, which was a tavern as early as 1731, and enter- tained Washington and Lafayette, Here also is the Library of brick, standing back from the road. In the time of the Revolution this was common or neutral territory which lay between the lines of the armies, after the British had taken New York. 50. On the right is Christ^s (Episcopal) Church, the original organization of which dates from 1695. Among its valued possessions are a silver chalice and chalice cover presented by Queen Anne. 50.6 On the right are the extensive grounds and large buildings of an Old Ladies* Home. 51.5 On the left, with tall white pillars, is the mansion where John Jay, the statesman and jurist (Chief Justice of the U. S. Supreme Court 1 789-1 795), spent his boyhood. The original house was one room deep and eighty feet long. 54. Mamaroneck. After passing through this vil- lage, on the left is the chimney of the ancient Disbrow house, which was erected in 1677. On the right is Heathcote Hill, now covered with new houses, but formerly the estate of Colonel Heathcote, one of whose daughters became the wife of James Fenimore Cooper. On one shoulder of the hill, overlooking the Sound, Cooper built the house in which he began his literary career. The scene of *'The Spy" is laid in this vicinity, Harvey Birch, the hero having been at one time concealed in the Disbrow house. Nothing remains that is closely connected with the life of the writer unless it be a little house in which ALONG THE SOUND 337 he lived for a short time immediately after his marriage, and this, if standing, is so changed as to bear no resemblance to its original shape. 5 5 . Larchmont was named from a row of larch trees which was planted to screen one of the early man- sions from the road. 56.5 New Rochelle (Pop. 28,800). At the entrance to this city, in a fork of the roads, on the right, stands a monument "erected to indicate the Old Post Road." (See page 15.) 56.7 The route does not pass through the center of the city, but turns to the left on Echo avenue and follows the shore road into Pelham Parkway. 64.0 Bronx Park, one of the largest in Greater New York, contains the Zoological gardens, the Botanical gardens, and many points of historic interest, among which is the old Lorillard mansion. 64.9 Upon reaching Grand boulevard, over at the right is the old Poe cottage. Here we turn to the left on a fine, wide parkway, and at the Franz Siegel statue (68.5) keep to the left. 69.0 At the subway kiosk the route turns to the right on 149th street, Bronx, crosses the Harlem River and enters 145th street, Manhattan. 69.6 At Seventh avenue the route turns to the left. At the end of the avenue the route enters 71.3 Central Park, curves sharply to the right and follows the main winding driveway. At the Web- ster statue, the route turns to the left and bears to the right along the "Mall." 74.2 The Plaza, Fifth avenue and 59th street. XVIII Western Entrances to New England (1) New York and Poughkeepsie to the Berkshires (2) Albany to Pittsfield and Burlington, 199 Miles (3) Lake Champlain to the White Hills While the route described in Chapter I carries perhaps a greater amount of automobile travel than any similar stretch in the United States,- there are many who, coming from the West, find it more to their fancy and convenience to enter New England at other points. The principal gateways as de- scribed very briefly in this chapter are Pough- keepsie, Albany and Buriington. Those from Southern New York, Northern New Jersey and Eastern Pennsylvania, who wish to avoid the crowded thoroughfares of the metropolis, drive directly to Newburgh, cross the Hudson River by ferry to Beacon, and thence to Poughkeepsie. Westerners, who are coming every year in con- stantly increasing numbers use the Mohawk Valley route to Albany, from which point Pittsfield, the com- mercial center of the Berkshires, is reached in two hours. From upper New York and the great Northern Wilderness, as well as from Ontario, the logical entrance to New England is across Lake Champlain, traversing the lovely island route to Burlington. All of these routes are very fully covered in The Scenic Motorway, a copy of which will be sent gratis by the publisher upon request of any user of this volume. 338 WESTERN ENTRANCES 339 (l) New York and Poughkeepsie to the Berkshires, 151.8 Miles o.o New York. From the Plaza at 59th street and Fifth avenue, the route enters Central Park and keeping left of the ''Mali, " turns to the left at Webster statue, and next sharp right out of the park into 7 2d street. 1.5 At the end of the street the route turns to the right and follows Riverside drive past the Soldiers' monument (3.) and Grant's Tomb (4.1), crosses the viaduct and finally enters Broadway (8.6), which it follows to 13.6 t Yonkers. Bearing left across Getty square, the route continues on North Broadway. Over at the left of Getty square is the historic Phillipse Manor, where Washington wooed the pretty Mary without vSuccess. 24.6 A road at the left leads to Sunnyside, former home of Washington Irving, his tomb being in Sleepy Hollow cemetery, passed upon leaving the interesting village of 25.4 Tarrytown. Bearing to the left at a church, the route soon enters 30.9 Ossining. Here is located the largest of the State penitentiaries known as Sing Sing. Keeping to the left of the monument we are soon favored with a view of the Hudson River at its widest part (3 3^ miles). Entering via Washington street, the route follows the trolley line to the center of 340 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 42.2 Peekskill. Here the route curves left on North Division street and at a water trough bears to the left leaving the trolley line. 47.0 Here a right fork puts one on the new State road which winds through the hills at a considerable distance back from the river, rejoining the old route through Cold Spring and Beacon at 66.4 Wappinger's Falls. Here we pick up the trolley line which is followed all the way into 74.1 fPoughkeepsie. At the end of Market street, the route turns to the right on Main street, with a trolley line. To visit Vassar College, turn right from Main street on Hamilton, and half left on Hooker avenue. 74.9 On the left is the old DeWitt Clinton mansion. 89.1 At a cross-road the route turns to the left and passes the Millbrook Inn, at the right. Just beyond it turns to the right across the railroad, and at the end of the road turns again to the right in front of "Daheim" lodge, guarding the entrance to the magnificent Dietrich estate. 100.2 At Amenia, the route turns left and follows the macadam through Millerton (107.5) into 1 13.2 fLakeville, Conn. Here is the famed Lake Wononscopomoc and several summer hotels. Turning to the left away from the railroad under- pass, and keeping to the left at the monument in Salisbury (114.8) the route shortly enters Massa- chusetts. 124. We are now passing the first of the lower WESTERN ENTRANCES 341 Berkshire Hills, Mt. Everett (2624 feet) being directly opposite, and Mt. Washington ahead, both at the left. 127.7 After crossing a short iron bridge, the route turns to the right, merging with the route from Hudson, N. Y. Passing through a beautiful resi- dence district, we soon enter 13 1 .6 t Great Barrington. The Berkshire Inn on the left is composed in part of the old home of William Culleji Bryant, who was town clerk here from 18 15 to 1825. Opposite is the magnificent Hopkins- Searles mansion, costing upwards of $1,500,000. Farther up Main street, we pass the Congregational church and Hopkins memorial manse. 132.3 Turning to the right at the end of Main street, the route follows the trolley to the foot of Monu- ment Mountain, which it ascends on a winding grade, descending into 139-3 fStockbridge. Here we turn to the right around the Red Lion Inn, and take the first diagonal road to the left. The road straight ahead at the latter point goes to Lee and on to Springfield, see page 253. 145.3 t At Lenox, the route turns to the right around the Curtis House and passing The Aspinwall, perched on a hill at the left, follows a straight road into 15 1.8 fPittsfield. The Wendell Hotel. The road straight ahead on Main street leads toWilliamstown, page 280 and to Burlington, page 342. 342 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS (2) Albany to Pittsfield, 36.4 Miles, and Burlington, 199 Miles Not shown in reverse direction o.o fAlbany at the State Capitol. Descend Capitol Hill and at the foot turn right with a cross trolley line into Pearl street. Look sharp for a branch trolley line turning off to the left, which the route follows across a toll bridge over the Hudson River. i.o At the end of the bridge turn right and take the first left fork on the State road through East Green- bush (5.5) and Schodack Center (7.3), keeping left at the garage (8.9). The route keeps straight through Nassau, and at Brainard joins the route from Troy. 25.7 New Lebanon. Turning left at the church, the route passes the little cemetery at the right where Tilden lies buried, and crossing the railroad, turns right up the long slope of Taconic Mountain. 28.0 At the top, looking back, is a magnificent view of the Lebanons and Wyomanock Valley. A stone at the right (28.6) marks the New York-Massa- chusetts boundary. Descending by easier stages the route passes through 32. Shaker Village, where a few remaining devotees of this once flourishing sect conduct a store. 36.4 fAt Pittsfield we join the route coming up from the South, and turn to the left on Main street. 57.8 t Williamstown. At the end of the street the route turns left and passes Williams College. This vicinity is more fully described on pages 280-2. For The Mohawk Trail to Greenfield, see page 282. WESTERN ENTRANCES 343 58.2 Turning to the right around The Greylock, a well defined road is followed into Vermont. 63. Pownal. Keeping to the right across a small bridge, the middle road past the hotel is followed up a long grade through Pownal Centre (65.6). 68.1 Leaving the main road at a schoolhouse the route bears the the left and enters 62.4 tOld Bennington. On the left is Walloomsac Inn built on the site of the old Catamount Tavern which was burned in 187 1. The Bennington battle monument is directly ahead. This commemorates a battle which was actually fought in the town of Hoosick, New York, on August 16, 1777- Our route turns off to the right before reaching the monument, and after passing through a covered bridge and over an iron bridge, turns to the right over a hill into South Shaftsbury (77-2). Continu- ing through Arlington, Mount Equinox (3,706 feet) is seen towering on the left as the road ap- proaches 95. t Manchester. Here the principal feature is The Equinox an ancient hostelry, which has been in one family for a hundred years. The Ek-wa-nok golf course is one of the best in New England. Keeping to the right at the library, the route crosses a small bridge at Manchester depot, and then keeps to the left at the next two forks, through the villages of East and North Dorset, Danby, and Wallingford. 128.5 Turning to the right through a covered bridge, the route passes under a railroad, turns to the left at the end of the street, and bears to the right on Wales street. 344 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 129.7 t Rutland. At the Berwick Hotel, the route turns to the right on Center street, and left with a trolley line on Main street. Passing through Pittsford (138.4) on a well defined road, we reach 145.8 t Brandon. Curving to the left at the monu- ment, we pass the Brandon Inn at the right, and curve right at the monument to Stephen A. Doug- las near a church (146.4). 1 53. 1 Curving right at the three-corners we shortly pass fLake Dunmore, one of Vermont's loveliest lakes. The route is easily followed into 163.6 jMiddlebury. Entering the village, take the right fork and turn left at the Inn, and next right on Pleasant street, keeping to the right of the large church. Cross two railroads at New Haven junction (17 1.6). 176.6 Vergennes, the oldest city in Vermont, is one of the smallest in the United States. Here Commo- dore MacDonough's fleet was fitted out for victory in the Battle of Lake Champlain, 18 14. At the end of School street, the route turns to the right and shortly passes under a railroad. Opposite Shelburne, and worth a visit, is the fine farm of Dr. Seward Webb. A little farther along is the entrance to Queen City Park, where the wonder- ful ' ' Red Rocks ' ' may be seen. 198.2 The route bears slightly to the left on St. Paul street and quickly reaches the center of 199. fBurlington. On the right is the Hotel Vermont, and on the left The Van Ness. Ahead is a small park in which the city buildings are located. Continued to The Balsams on next page. WESTERN ENTRANCES 345 (3) Lake Champlain to the White Hills o.o Burlington. From The Vermont, run north on St. Paul street and turn to the right on Pearl street. 2.2 After crossing an iron bridge into Winooski, the route turns to the right at the first four-corners, following the trolley line to Essex Junction. 8.6 At the four-corners in Essex Center, the route turns to the right around a store, and follows the telephone line through Jericho and Cambridge into 38.7 Johnson. At the water trough, where the route straight ahead leads to Hyde Park and St. Johns- bury, we turn to the left through Lowell (58.1) to 66.2 Troy. Turning a half -right at the Inn the main traveled road is followed through picturesque 78. Newport, at the foot of Lake Memphremagog. The route crosses a bridge, at once turns to the left and then right, taking a right fork at 81.5. 82.4 At the end of the road in Derby, the route turns right through a covered bridge and at once left. 88.8 At the old pump we take the fork to the left, the direct road ahead leading to St. Johnsbury. 98.5 After making a sharp left and then a right turn, the route continues along the line of railroad, cross- ing the Connecticut River into 1 1 6.3 North Stratford. Turning to the left on the main street, the route follows the Connecticut to 1 29. 1 Colebrook. Here we turn to the right on Parsons street and follow the diminutive Mohawk River, entering the property of the Dixville Notch Corporation (136.6). 346 FAVORITE MOTOR WAYS 137.5 The right fork leads to the Fish Hatchery. On a hill at the left is the red-tiled roof of the Country Club House. On the left is Mt. Abenaki. 139.2 Here the left fork is the entrance to The Balsams, a large hotel which, with its surrounding buildings, constitute a considerable settlement. Skirting now the shores of Lake Gloriette, origi- nally a beaver pond, the road approaches Dixville Notch, named for Col. Timothy Dix, grandfather of Ex-Governor Dix of New York. The lands in this vicinity were granted to Dix for his services during the Revolution. Entering the Notch, the elevation is 2,000 feet. On the right is Table Rock, and on the left is Mount Sanguinari, with a conspicuously projecting cliff called "The Buttress." The first road was built through the notch in 181 1 from the receipts of a State lottery. In 1795 Whittemore, agent for Dix, made a clearing (141. 9), and his remains lie in the cemetery at the left. Emerging into open country, the road now follows the level valley of Clear Stream to 150.6 Errol. Here a turn to the right down the Androscoggin will bring us to Gorham, where, by consulting the map on pages 144-145, one may select any one of several ways to reach Bretton Woods, continuing the trip as fancy may dictate. Another popular trip is to continue east from Errol to Bethel and Naples, joining the route on page 172. From Dixville Notch one may return to Colebrook, and thence down the Connecticut through Groveton to Bretton Woods. Consult Finding-map inside front cover. INDEX Page Adams, Charles Francis 97, 300 Adams, John .... 76, 96, 97, 300, 301 Adams, John Quincy 96, 97. 300, 301 Adams, Samuel 233, 294 Agamenticus, Mount. .127, 129, 135, 137, 176, 183 Alcott House 235, 292 Alcott, Louisa M 235, 292 Alden, John 94. 304 Aldrich, T. B 128.185 Allen, Lewis 54, 260 Ames Estate 83, 312 Ammonusuc Falls IS3. 163 Ammonusuc River IS3. 163 Anderson, S, J. & J. F IS4. 161 Aquidneck, Island of 79, 314 Arlington, Mass. . . .60, 199. 231, 296 Arnold Arboretum 84, 299 Arnold, Benedict 27, 191, 271 Arnold, Gov. Benedict 78 Arsenal, Springfield 51. 263 Arthur's Seat 39. 225 Ashland, N. H iiS, 201 Ashuelot Mountains 43, 222 Ashuelot River. 42, 221 Ashuelot Village 42, 222 Assabet River 235 , 290 Athol, Mass 239, 287 Avery, Capt. James 70, 321 Avery House, Groton 70, 322 Baker River 47, 167, 218 Balch House 194 Baldwinville, Mass 238, 288 Barlow, David 23, 331 Barnum. P. T 24, 33 1 Barnum's Circus 24, 330 Bartlett, N. H 157, 160 Bartlett Haystack 160 Basin, The 150, 165 Bay Path 50, 255 Bay Road 123, 192 Beaman, Gameliel 236, 290 Beaman Oak 236, 289 Bearcamp Mountains 131, 180 Belding, Aaron 41, 223 Belknap Mountains. . .111, 130,202 Bemis Family 53, 260 Bemis, N. H 156, 160 Bennington, Vt 343 Berlin, Conn 31, 268 Bernardston, Mass 40, 224 Beverly, Mass 121, 193 Biddeford, Me 137. I7S Bigelow, Col. Timothy 55, 259 Billings, Josh 248, 28 1 Bloody Brook 39. 226 Blue Hills 83,311 Boscawen, N. H 109, 20S Bradford History 93 Bradford, Maj. John 93 Bradford, William 93. 304 Brandon, Vt 344 Page Branford, Conn 63, 327 Brattleboro, Vt 42, 222 Breakfast Hill 127, 187 Bretton Woods, N. H IS3. 161 Bridge, John 231, 296 Bridgeport, Conn 23. 330 Bridgton, Me 142, 171 Bristol, N. H 47, no, 218 Bronx Park 14. 337 Brookfield, Mass 53, 260 Brown, John 58, 257 Bryant, William Cullen 341 Bull, Ephraim W 293 Burlington, Vt 344 Buzzard's Bay 89, 306 Byram River 19, 335 Cambridge, Mass 230, 297 Campton, N. H 148 Cannon Mountain 150, 165 Canton, Mass 311 Cape Cod 89. 305, 306 Cape Cod Canal 89, 306 Cathedral Woods 159 Charlemont, Mass 244, 284 Charlestown, R.I 74, 3 1 8 Charter Oak 32. 268 Chelsea, Mass 116, 197 Cherry Mountain 152, 163 Cherry Valley, Mass 54, 259 Chester, Mass 253. 277 Chicopee River 52, 262 Chocorua Lake 132, 180 Chocorua Mt 131, 132, 179. 180 Christ's Church, Rye 18, 336 Clinton, Conn 64, 32s Clinton, De Witt 340 Cocheco Mills 120, 183 Coffin, Joshua 190 Coffin, Tristam 125 Coggswell, Henry G 79. 3I4 Cohasset, Mass 95. 302 Colts Arms Mfg. Co 32, 267 Conanicut Island 75. 3i6 Conant, Roger 120, 194 Concord, Mass 234, 292 Concord, N. H 108, 20S Concord Grape 234, 293 Connecticut River. . .36, 40. 66, 239. 266, 287 Constitution Hill 248, 281 Conway, N. H 133. I79 Cooper, J. Fenimore 18, 336 "The Spy" 18, 336 "Red Rover" 78, 316 Cooper Tavern .... 60, 199. 231, 296 Cotton Mill, First in America. .121, 193 Cradock House 60, 199 Crawford, Abel 156, 160 Crawford House 154, 161 Crawford Mountain 156, 160 Crawford Notch 152, 156, 160 Cutler, Rev. Manasseh. . . .122, 192 347 348 INDEX— Continued Page Danbury, N. H 47. 218 Darien, Conn 21, 333 Dauphin, The Lost 34, 265 Day, Maj. Benj 254, 276 Deerfield, Mass 39, 225 Deerfield River 40, 225 Dickens, Charles 213 Diokenson, Nathaniel 42, 223 Dighton, Mass 82, 313 Dighton Rock 82, 313 Disbrow House 18, 336 Dix, Gen. John no, 205 Dixville Notch, N. H 346 Dixwell, John 29, 271 Douglass, Stephen A 344 Dover, N. H 120, 183 Duncan Lake 131, 181 Dunmore Lake 344 Dustin, Hannah. . . 105, 109, 205, 212 Duxbury, Mass 91, 94. 304 East Hartford, Conn 32, 266 East Rock 29, 269 Eaton, Theophilus 29, 271 Echo Lake (Eastern) 1 33. 1 79 Echo Lake (Western) 132, 164 Edwards, Rev. Jonathan Birthplace 33. 266 At Northampton 38,227 At Stockbridge 252, 278 Egypt, Mass 95, 303 Elephant's Head 154. 161 Elkins, N. H 46,219 Emerson, Ralph Waldo .... 235, 292 Endicott's Rock 114, 202 Epileptic Hospital 52, 261 Fabyan's, N. H 153, 163 Fairfield, Conn 23, 331 Fairhaven, Mass 87, 308 Fall River, Mass 79, 309, 313 Battle of 82,314 Falmouth 89 Fitchburg, Mass 237, 289 Florida, Mass 24s, 283 Flume, The 150, 165 Flume Mountain 149, 163 Fore River Shipyards 96, 302 Forts — Adams 76, 316 Greble 75, 3i6 Griswold 70, 322 Hawkes 245, 283 Rice 24s, 284 Taylor 244, 284 Trumbull 70, 322 Warren 76 Fort Hill 71,320 Franconia, N. H. 152, 163 Franconia Mountains. . 148, 163, 167 Franconia Notch 150, 165 Frankenstein Cliffs 156, 160 Franklin, N. H no, 204 Franklin. Benjamin 128, 185 Frye, Capt., Escapes Indians 141, 173 Fryeburg, Me 143, 170 Game Preserve, Conn 65, 324 Gardner, Mass 238, 288 Page Gardner, Augustus P 123, 192 Garrison Houses 58, 102, 206, 216, 256 Garrison, William Lloyd. . .125, 190 General Electric Co 117, 197 George's Mills 46, 219 Gilsum, N. H 44, 221 Gloucester 121 Goddard, Luther 56, 258 Golden Wedding House 97, 300 Goodnow, Mary 56 Goodyear, Stephen 29, 271 Gorges, Sir Ferdinand 136, 177 Gorham, N. H 346 Gough, John B 56, 258 Grant, U. S 33, 266 Great Bay 120, 184 Great Barrington, Mass 341 Great Blue Hill 83 Great Post Road 256 Great Stone Face 164 Greenfield, Mass. . .40, 225, 244, 286 Greenwich, Conn 19, 334 Grey Gables 88, 307 Greylock, Mount 247, 281, 282 Groton, Conn 70, 321 Guilford, Conn 63, 327 Hale, Nathan — Monument. .32, 267 Memorial Fountain 21, 333 Schoolhouse 67 Halleck, Fitz- Greene 64, 327 Hamilton, Gail 122, 192 Hamilton, Mass 122, 192 Hampton, N. H 126, 187 Hampton Beach 126, 188 Hampton Falls 126, 188 Hancock, John i8s Birthplace 97, 30l At Fairfield 23, 331 At Lexington 233, 294 Hanging Hills 30, 269 Hartford, Conn 31, 267 Hart's Ledge 156, 160 Harvard University 85. 98, 230, 297, 299 Hawthorne, Nathaniel Birthplace 120, 19s Boyhood Home 141, 173 At Concord 234. 292 At Lenox 251, 279 Haystack Monument 247, 282 Heathcote Hill IS, 336 Hingham, Mass 96, 302 Hinsdale, N. H 42, 222 Hoar, George F 55, 259 Holderness, N. H 1 15, 201 Holmes, Oliver Wendell 138, 230, 249, 280, 297 Holyoke, Mass 36, 228 Holyoke, Mount 36, 227 Hooksett Pinnacle 108, 207 Hoosac Mountain 24s, 283 Hoosic River 247, 282 Hopper, The 248, 282 Housatonic River 25, 248, 253, 277, 330 Howe, Elias 54. 260 INDEX— Continued 349 Page Hudson River 339, 342 Huntington, Mass 253, 277 Ice, Early Shipments of.. . .122, 193 Indian Attacks and Battles Deerfield 39. 226 Pequot Hill, Mystic 71, 320 Peqout at Southport 23, 332 Turner's Falls 242, 286 Wells. Me 137, 176 Ipswich, Mass 123, 191 Irving, Washington 339 Jacob's Ladder 253, 277 Jackson, N. H I57, IS9 Jay, John 18, 336 Jerusalem Road 95, 302 Jockey Cap 143, 170 Jones, John Paul 128, 187 Kearsarge, Mt. (Northern) .133, 142 Kearsarge, Mt. (South'n).46, 207,219 Keene, N. H 43, 22 r Kemble, Fanny 252, 279 Kenilworth Castle 37, 228 Kennebunk, Me 137, 176 Killingworth, Conn 64, 32 S Kingston, Mass 94. 304 Kittery, Me 135, 177 Kittredge, Walter 107, 210 Laconia, N. H 114, 203 Lafayette, General. ... 19, 32, 53. 67, 128, i8s, 261, 266, 336 Lafayette, Mount 150, 164 Lakeville, Conn 340 Lamentation, Mount 31, 268 Lanesborough, Mass 248, 281 Langdon, Gov., House of. . .128, 185 Larchmont, N. Y IS.337 Larcom, Lucy 104, 213 Laurel Park 38, 226 Lee, Mass 253, 277 Leicester, Mass 54, 259 Lenox, Mass 251, 279, 341 Lempster Mountains 45, 220 Leominster, Mass 236, 289 Lexington, Mass 233, 294 Lincoln, Abraham 95, 303 Lincoln, Mordecai 95, 303 Lind, Jenny 38, 226 Livermore Falls 148, 167 Longfellow, H. W 65, i39, 249, 280,315 Longmeadow. Mass 33, 265 Long Lake, Me 142, 171 Lovell, Capt. J ... 131, 143, 170, l8l Lovell's Pond 143, 170 Lovell's River 132, 181 Lowell, Mass 103, 104, 213 Lynn, Mass 117, 196 MacDonough, Com 344 Madison, Conn 63, 326 Magnolia I2I Magoun, Thacher 103, 215 Main, Rev. Amos 130, 183 Mamaroneck, N. Y 18, 336 Manchester, N. H 107. 207 Page Manchester, Vt 343 Manomet, Mass 91, 305 Marblehead, Mass 118 Marion, Mass 87, 307 Marlboro, Mass 58, 257 Marshfield, Mass 94, 303 Mattapoisett, Mass 87, 308 May, Samuel 54, 259 Maynard, Mass 235, 290 McKinley Monument 34, 265 McSparren, Rev. Dr 75. 317 Medford, Mass. . . .61, 102, 199, 215 Meredith, N. H 115, 201 Meriden, Conn 30, 268 Merrimack River. .104, no, 125, 204 Meyer, George von L 122, 192 Mile-stones and Guide-stones Bridgeport 23, 331 E. Windsor 266 Hamilton 192 Longmeadow 34, 265 Pembroke 207 Shrewsbury 56, 258 Springfield 51, 263 Suncook 108, 207 Wenham 122, 193 West Brookfield 52, 261 Milford, Conn 25, 329 Millbank 19, 335 Miller's Falls 239, 287 Miller's River 239, 287 Milton, N. H 130, 182 Minot's Ledge Light 302 Missions, Birthpl. of Foreign. 247, 282 Mohawk Trail 243, 282 Monroe Tavern 231, 292 Moody, Rev, D. L 40, 41. 223 Moulton, Gen. Jonathan. . .126, 188 Mt. Equinox 343 Mt. Everett 341 Mt. Hermon Schools 40, 224 Mt. Monadnock 43. 221 Mt. Vernon House 68 Murray, Rev. W. H. H 64, 33S Myopia Club 122, 192 Mystic, Conn .71. 3^9 Monuments and Memorials Aldrich, T. B 128,185 Anderson, S. J. & J. F. . . 154. 161 Avery 70, 32 1 Baltimore Riot 104, 214 Belcher Fountain 41, 224 Belding, Aaron 41, 223 Bemis Family S3. 260 Bennington Battle 343 Bigelow, Col. Timothy. . .55. 259 Black.stone Library 63. 327 Bloody Brook 39. 226 Bridge, John 231, 296 Channing, Wm. E 78, 3I5 Charter Oak 32. 268 Coggswell. Henry G 82,314 Conant, Roger 119. I94 Cotton Mill, First 121, 193 Dickenson, Nathaniel 42, 223 Dixwell, John 29, 271 Douglas, Stephen A 344 Edwards, Jonathan 252, 278 350 INDEX— Continued Page Father Matthew 119, 196 Fenwick, Lady 66, 325 Firemen's 68 Forefathers 93, 304 Goodnow 56 Groton Battle 70, 322 Hale, Nathan 21, 32, 267, 333 Haystack 247, 282 Hessian Camp. . .36, 228, 254, 275 Hoar, George F 55, 259 Holmes, O. W 230, 297 Howe, Elias 54. 260 Longfellow, Henry W. . . . 139, 175 Main, Rev. Amos 130, 183 Mason, Capt. John 71 McKinley, President 34, 265 Milford, Conn. Bridge. . . .25, 329 Minute-man 233, 294 Morgan Art Memorial. . . .32, 267 Morgan, Charles 65,325 Morgan, Miles 263 Newbury 123, 191 Parker, Capt. John 233, 294 Paterson, Gen. John 251, 279 Pequot War 22, 71, 320, 332 Perry, Com. O. H 77, 315 Perry, Com, M. C 78. 31S Peters, Hugh 122, 193 Pierce, Franklin 109, 206 Pierson, Abraham 65, 325 Post Road 15, 337 Puritan, The 51, 263 Putnam, Gen. I.. 20, 117, 197, 335 Regicides 29, 271 Revere, Paul, Capture of . 234, 293 Shay's Rebellion. .51, 83, 263, 312 Siegel, Franz 14. 337 Spanish War Soldiers 36, 228 Standish, Myles 91. 304 Stanton, Gen. Joseph 73. 3i9 Stark. General 109, 206 Stockbridge Indians 252, 278 Sumner, Charles 230, 297 Taylor, Charles A 104, 214 Thornton, Matthew 106, 210 Tilton Family iii. 203 Washington, George 125, 190 Weare, Meshach 126, 188 Webster, Daniel. .14. 94. 109, 206, 303. 337 Weeden, Margaret 74, 318 Wheeler, Nathaniel 24, 330 Winthrop, John 68 Yale College 65,325 Nahant, Mass 117. 196, i97 Nantasket Beach 95, 302 Naples. Bay of 141, 171 Narragansett Bay 74. 75, 3i6 Narragansett Pier, R. 1 74, 317 Nashua, N. H 106. 211 Nashua River 106, 211 Nat's Rock 141, 173 Neddick, Cape 136, 177 Neponset River 84, 98 New Bedford 87. 308 New Britain, Conn 31. 268 Newbury, Mass 123, 191 Page Newburyport, Mass 125, 190 New Castle, N. H 127 Newfound Lake 47, 218 New Haven, Conn . .26, 270 The Green 27, 271 New Lebanon, N. Y 342 New London, Conn 66,-322 New London, N. H 46, 219 Newport, R. 1 76, 315 Newport, N. H 45, 220 Newport, Vt 345 New Rochelle, N. Y 15, 337 New York City 14, 339 North Adams, Mass 247. 282 Northampton, Mass 37, 226 North Conway, N. H 133, 159 North Easton, Mass 312 Northfield, Mass 41, 223 Northfield Seminary 41, 223 North Haven, Conn 30, 269 North Wilbraham, Mass. . . .51. 262 North Woodstock, N. H. . . 149. 166 Norwalk, Conn 21,332 Ogunquit, Me 137. 176 Old Oaken Bucket 94, 303 Old Orchard Beach 138 Old Ship 96, 302 Onset, Mass 88, 307 Oraculum 33, 266 Orange, Mass 239, 287 Oread Seminary 55, 259 Ossining, N. Y 339 Ossipee, N. H 131, 181 Ossipee Lake 131, 142, 181 Ossipee Mountains 132, 180 Ox-Bow of the Connecticut . . 37, 227 Paine, Robert Treat 83, 312 Palmer, Mass 52, 262 Parker, Capt. John 233, 294 Passaconaway 105, 212 Passaconaway Mountain.. .114, 131 Paths and Trails, See Roads Pawtucket Falls 104, 213 Pease, Levi 56, 258 Peekskill, N. Y 340 Penacook, N. H 109, 205 Pembroke, N. H 108, 207 Pemigewasset River.. .110, 115, 164, 201, 204 Pequot Battles 22, 71, 320, 332 Pequot Hill 71,320 Perry, Com. O. H 74, 76, 31S, 3i8 Perry, Com. M. C 78, 31S Phelps, Prof. Austin S3, 262 Philip, King 38, 79, 226 Phillipse Manor 339 Pierce, Franklin 108, 109, 206 Pittsfield, Mass 249, 280 Plymouth, Mass 91 , 304 Plymouth, N. H 47, i IS, 148, 167, 201 Poe Cottage 14, 337 Poet's Seat 40, 224, 242, 286 Point Judith 74, 318 Poland Spring, Route. . 140, 141. 171 Ponkapoag, Mass 84, 311 Pontoosuc Lake 249, 280 INDEX — Continued 351 Page Pool, The 150,165 Portchester. N. Y I9. 335 Portland, Me 138.173 Portsmouth, N. H. Points of Interest in 128, 185 Powder Mills 33. 235. 266, 290 Pownal, Vt 343 Presidential Range . . . . I33. i53. 161 Profile, The 151. 164 Putnam Cottage 20, 335 Putnam, Gen. Israel At Greenwich 20, 334 At Revere 116. I97 Quaboag River 52. 261 Quaker Hill 79.314 Quarries — Cheshire, Mass 249 Conway. N. H. .133. I43. i70. I79 Fitchburg, Mass 237, 289 Lee, Mass 253 Quincy, Mass 98, 300 Westerly, R.I 73.319 Quequechan River . . 79. 86. 309. 3i3 Quincy, Mass 96, 301 Quincy, Dorothy— Birthplace.97. 301 At Lexington 233, 294 At Fairfield 23,331 Quinnipiac River 30,62, 270,327 Quinsigamond Lake 55. 258 Rattlesnake Range I33. i43, I79 Red Rocks 344 Redstone, N. H. . .133. I43. 170. I79 Regicides — At Guilford 64. 327 At Milford 25,329 At New Haven 29, 271 Grave of 29,271 Revere Beach, Mass 117. I97 Revere, Paul • J 5 Bells made by 33. 59. 256. 265 His Ride 60.231 His Capture 234. 293 Revolution, Battles at Bennington 343 Fall River 82,314 Groton 70,322 New Haven 25. 329 Revere ii7, I97 Roads, Paths and Trails Bay Path 50.255 Bay Road 123. 192 Connecticut Path 59. 256 Mohawk Trail 243, 282 Old Post Road IS. 256 Rochester, N. H 130, 183 Rogers. H. H 87.308 RoUstone Hill 237, 289 Rowley, Mass 123. I9i Russell, Mass 253, 277 Rutland, Vt 344 Rye, N. Y 18. 335 Rye Beach. N. H 126, 187 Saco. Me I37. I75 Saco River I33. I37, I70. I75 Salem, Mass 118, 120, 194. I9S Salisbury, Conn 340 Salisbury. Mass. 126, 188 Salisbury Beach 126 Page Saltonstall Lake 63.327 Samp Mortar 1 1 1. 204 Sanbornville. N. H 130, 182 Sandwich Mts 114. 131. 181. 203 Saunderstown, R. I 75. 3I7 Sawyer's River 156, 160 Sawyer's Rock 156. 160 Saybrook. Conn 65. 325 Scarboro. Me 138. I75 Scituate. Mass 95, 303 Seabrook, N. H 126, 188 Sebago Lake 140, 171 Seccomb House. . . .61, 102, 199, 216 Sedgwick, Catherine 252, 279 Sedgwick, Charles 252, 279 Shaker Villages. . . .33. 253. 266, 342 Shaw, Henry W 248, 281 Shay's Rebellion 278 Springfield 51.263 Taunton 83,312 Shelburne Falls 244, 284 Sherman, Roger 26, 329 Shrewsbury, Mass 55, 257 Siegel, Franz 14. 337 Signers of Declaration of Inde- pendence John Hancock 23, 97, 233 Robert Treat Paine 83,312 Roger Sherman 26, 329 Matthew Thornton 106, 210 Smith College 37, 227 Smith, Jonathan 248, 271 Smithtown, N. H : 126, 188 Songo River 141,171 Southboro, Mass 58 South Deerfield. Mass 38, 226 South Easton, Mass 312 Southport, Conn 22, 332 South Windsor, Conn 32, 266 Spencer, Mass 53. 260 Springfield, Mass 34. 36. 51. 228, 254. 263, 275 Squam Lake 115. 201 Squantum. Chief 1 11, 204 Stamford, Conn 21, 333 Standish, Myles 91,92,94,304 Stanton, Gen. Joseph 73. 3i8 Steerage Rock • 52 Stockbridge, Mass. . . .252. 278,341 Stockbridge Bowl 252, 279 Stockbridge Indians 252, 278 Stokes, Rev. Anson Phelps. .29, 270 Stone Mill 78.315 Stone Temple 96, 301 Stonington, Conn 72,319 Storrs, Rev. R. S 34.265 Stratford, Conn 24, 330 Stuart, Gilbert •• 3I7 Stoughton. Mass 83.311 Sudbury, Mass 58.256 Sudbury River 58. 256 Sugar Hill, N. H 152.163 Sumner. Charles 230. 297 Sunapee Lake 46. 219 Sunapee Mountains 45. 219 Suncook, N. H 108.207 Sunset Tree 41.223 Swampscott, Mass 118, 19O 352 INDEX— Continued Page Tarrytown, N. Y 339 Taunton, Mass 83, 312 Taverns — Arlington, Mass .231, 296 Charlestown, R. 1 74. 3 18 Concord, Mass 235, 292 Greenwich, Conn 20, 335 Lexington, Mass 231, 294 Madison, Conn 64 Marlboro, Mass 58, 257 Norwalk, Conn 22, 333 Pease 56,257 Penacook, N. H 109, 205 Pittsfield, Mass 249, 280 Red Horse 58, 256 Sudbury, Mass 58, 256 Wayside Inn 58, 256 West Brookfield, Mass. . . .53. 261 Westport, Conn 22, 332 Tecumseh, Mount 148, 167 Templeton, Mass 238 Tenting on the OldCampgr'd 107, 210 Thackery, W. M 122, 193 Thompson, Denman 43, 221 Thornton, N. H 148. 166 Thornton, Matthew 106, 210 Tilden, Samuel J 342 Tilton. N. H iii, 203 Tin Peddlers 31. 268 Tiverton, R. I 79. 3i4 Tobacco Farms 33. 38, 226 Tobey Mountain 38, 226 Tom Mount 36,226.227 Trowbridge, J. T 60, 200 Tufts College 102, 198 Tug-of-War Hill IS4. 161 Turner's Falls, Mass 239, 286 Turnpike, First in Mass 56. 257 Tweed Estate 19. 335 Tyng, Jonathan 105. 212 Tyngsboro, Mass 105. 212 Tyng's Island 105. 212 Union. N. H 130. 182 United Shoe Machy. Co 121, 194 Universalist Creed Adopted. . 43, 222 Vassar College 34° Vergennes, Vt 344 "Victory" 55. 104. 214, 259 Wachusett Mount.. 55. 237. 258. 288 Wadsworth Atheneum 32, 267 Wait Guide-Post SL 263 Wakefield, N. H 130, 182 Wakefield, R. 1 74. 3i8 Wallingford, Conn 30, 269 Waltham. Mass 60, 200 Wannalancet 105. 212 Ward, Gen. Artemus 56. 257 Wareham, Mass 88, 307 Warehouse Point, Conn 33, 266 Warren, Mass 53. 261 Washington, George At Beverly 121,193 At Brookfield 53. 261 At Hartford 32. 267 At New Haven 37,271 H 88 Page Washington, George At New London 66 At Palmer 52, 262 At Portsmouth 128, 18 j At Rye 19, 336 Washington Elms. .52, 231, 262, 296 Washington, Lay Figure of. . 149, 165 Washington, Mount. .130, 131, 133, 140, 153 Watch Hill, R. 1 73,319,321 Watches, First American .... 56, 258 Watersheds — Ashuelot 45, 220 Central Mass 54, 237, 260 Crawford 154, 161 Franconia 152, 164 Watuppa Ponds 79, 86, 309 Waverly Oaks 60, 200 Wayland, Mass 59, 256 Wayside Inn 58, 256 Webster, Daniel. . . 14. 94, no, 120, 185,205,303.337,339 Webster, Mount 154, 161 Webster, Noah . . .• 29, 270 Weeden, Margaret 74, 318 Weirs, N. H lis, 202 Wells, Me 137, 176 Wenham, Mass 122, 193 Wenham Lake 122, 193 Wequetaquock Cove 73, 319 Westerly, R. 1 73, 319 Westfield, Mass 254, 275 Westminster, Mass 238,288 Weston, Mass 59. 256 West Ossipee, N. H 132, 180 Westport, Conn 22, 332 Westport, N. H 43, 222 West Swanzey. N. H 43, 221 Whateley, Mass 38, 226 Wheeler, Nathaniel 24, 330 Whitefield. Rev. G .53, 125, 190, 261 Whittier. J. G 126, 132, 180 Wilbraham Mountains 51, 262 Willard, Mount 154. 160 Willey House 156, 160 Williams College 247, 282 Williams, Eleazer 34, 265 Williamstown, Mass 247, 282 Winchester, Mass 103, 215 Winchester, N. H 42, 222 Winnepesaukee Lake. .114. 201,202 Winnepesaukee River no, 203 Winnesquam Lake in, 203 Winthrop, John, Jr 67 Winthrop Mill 67 Woburn, Mass 103, 215 Wononscopomoc Lake 340 Wood, Gen. Leonard 43, 222 Woodworth, Samuel 94. 303 Worcester, Mass 55.258 Yale University— At Branford 63. 327 At Clinton 64, 326 At New Haven 26, 270 At Saybrook 66. 325 Yalesville, Conn 30 York, Me 136, I77 York Jail 136, I77 78 H^ O 'o . . 'I A. i°-^. v^ r- % 9f. *' " " ^W "°^ o ,0'' .^^ 'v .^ y JAN 78 N. MANCHES' INDIANA ItR,