F 144 .H13 B6 Copy 1 ^RAMBLING^ REMINISCENCES ^1 EUGENE ♦ K ♦ B IRD fl^ A fHlicy, liyd. H. von (inll»rlmlk Rambling Reminiscences AN INTIMATE EXCURSION THROUGH THE HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS OF OI^D HACKENSACK By EUGENE K. BIRD ii Editor of The Hackensack Republican Cover design by Mira Marie Royle 19 2 2 Copyright, 1922 By Eugene K. Bird Press of The Hackensack Republican Hackensack, N. j. aCU6o9038 The Home-Town Lure. If I wuz back In Hackensack Whair all my folkses live, There's not a blame Thing y' c'u'd name 'At I jes' wouldn't giv'. In Hackensack If I wuz back, They'd welcome me, I 'low. "Ef thet hain't Jake," They'd say; "Why shake. Whair be y' livin' now?" I hain't kep' track O' Hackensack Sence I lef years ago; I bet, by gum! Th' town's grow'd sum An' spruced up like, y' know. Th' skeeters thair 'Ud raise yer hair, An' gosh, but they kin bite; Y' dassent sleep Onless y' keep Awake th' hull dern nite. I jes' git blue, Yes, sir, I do, T' see ole Hackensack; An' sum fine day. Not fur away, Y' bet I'm goin' back. — Ohio State Journal RAMBLING REMINISCENCES Gentle reader, meek and mild, Innocent as simple child, In these pages you will find — If you seek with open mind — Wondrous fund of wayback lore, Wand'rer-garaered door to door. Fact and legend fair you'll see Correlated. All agree Those who made the old home town Saw that things were "done up brown." Each had joy and sorrow, grief; Sow'd wild oats and reap'd — in brief, Car'd no jot for Time's grim wrack: Just liv'd and died in Hackensack. Rambling Reminiscences. You may not desire to sing the old songs they sang long years ago, but there is something in annals of the past that revives dormant memories, and causes forgotten scenes to pass across the mental vision, repeople deserted places and refresh lagging recollection of localities, individuals and events. Who does not take at least a passing pleasure in narratives of those far-removed days when Father and Mother, then as young as their grand-children of today, were "Sitting in a corner, on a Sunday eve, with a taper finger resting on your sleeve"? It is dangerous to quote, but a chance is taken on the accuracy of the old song lines. And this is a reminder of a story of the Inquisitive One, who asked, "What is the most common misquotation in the English language?" The Purist answered: "When Greek meets Greek, then comes the tug of war." "Well, what is the matter with that?" asked the Inquisitive One. "That is the most common misquotation in the English language," responded the Purist. "I heard the late Roscoe Conklin say once that he won a basket of wine from Clement L. Vallandigham on that quota- tion. He wagered that Mr. Vallandigham could not tell what the cor- rect words were, nor who wrote them, nor when they were written. And he won on every point. Now, put yourselves in Mr. Vallandigham's place. What would you have done?" "I should have declined to make the bet," said the Inquisitive One. "And I," "and I," came from all parts of the room. "But I should not," said the Purist, " 'When Greeks joined Greeks, then was the tug of war,' is the correct quotation. It was written by Nathaniel Lee, an Englishman, about the year 1700." "Did you ever see it quoted cor- rectly?" asked the Inquisitive One. "Never in the newspapers," said the Purist. But here is a quotation the accuracy of which is vouched for: "I love everything that's old. Old friends, old times, old manners, old books, old wine." And long before Goldsmith wrote the sentiment in his way it was uttered by John Webster in this wise: "Is not old wine wholesomest, old pippins toothsomest, old wood burns brightest, old linen wash whitest. Old soldiers, sweetheart, are surest, and old lov- ers are soundest." Old people find their greatest delight in comparing Then and Now, their Yesterday with our Today, to the disadvantage of the newest era, in their reckoning. Aided and abetted by some of these Ancients, the penman invites the reader to take the wayback Hackensack trail and indulge in a few Rambling Reminiscences of "the days when we went gypsing, a long time ago." Some will doutbless. philosophise over certain information here imparted; others may criticise and question the accuracy of occasional references. If these notes are not sufficiently letter-perfect in their hap-hazardness to gratify an occasional esthetic soul, such pei"fection- ists must make the best of it. There is nothing esthetic about the in- cidents here transferred to white paper. So, without qualm or blush, or the tremor of an eyelash, these more or less intimacies of other days shall proceed to take their more or less appropriate place among the annals of Our Village, which we count as the loveliest in all the Jerseys. Cavilers may indulge their captious carpings — as Charles Battell Loomis once said when defending the fair name of Hackensack from the shafts of the common herd that saw something in the historic name upon which to crack a minstrel jcke — "and be damned to 'em." Those who remember Mr. Loomis will hold his memory blameless for an apparent undue vigor of expression, knowing that the provocation was great. If "those people are most happy whose annals are vacant," Hack- ensack should be a home of the blessed; for the old town has little record of its very earliest times, and less that can introduce us to the life and habits of those who constituted the first settlers of the wilds of East Jersey. The name Hackensack, according to official rec- ords of the United States, was spelled in twenty-two different ways, the same being examples of orthography which would require a bold penman to reproduce off-hand; but there is nothing remarkable in this, as any reader of official documents in the county clerk's office may learn. Even lawyers and others presumably learned men took scan- dalous liberty with the spelling of locality and family names, well within the present century. Perhaps Voltaire was too truthful when he wrote that "History is only the register of crimes and misfortuntes," and it may account for the lack of refei'ence to this sparsely settled territory in its remotest days. Local history, what there is of it, is practically church history, and that is centered in the First Reformed (Dutch) Church, affectionately called "The Old Church on the Green." Hackensack was named after a division of the Unami Delaware Indians, who roamed this territory long before the advent of the white man who, with his rum, religion and roguish propensities, robbed thein of their land; then the Red Man indulged his inborn predilection for collecting scalp-locks. The records tell us that the first known refer- ence to Hackensack makes allusion to it as a trading post in 1640, two hundred and eighty-two years ago. Then the film broke and the name floated in invisibility until it hit the screen again in 1686 — it was a sort of lost Atlantis for forty-six years, and found itself in the annals of the Dutch Church. The mystery of these years will never be fathomed; it is as obscure as the secret of the Great Pyramid. The Church was imported from Holland, with all the Dutch vices, jealousies, contentions, bigotry and fanaticism. Men came to the New World to escape intolerance and religious persecution only to set up here an equally insufferable ecclesiastical rule. But this is not to be accepted as evidence that i-eligion is all bad. If you steer clear of sectarian Scylla and fanatical Charybdis there are chances of sailing under smiling skies, before fair winds, and reaching a happy haven beside summer seas. However, it was the Church that gave birth to Hackensack, and despite many disadvantages, including a variegated orthography and natural vicissitudes of the forest, the settlement of 1686 grew until it now has nearly 18,000 souls for the census man to count. It is as well to ignore the long period of religious strife between "Coetus" and "Conferentie" parties, which resulted in a denominational split and establishment of the True Reformed Dutch Church locally known as the "Seceders," most of the members of which body have affiliated with the Presbyterian Church. On that subject it is vdsdom to "let the old cat die," and com.e down to a period well within the memory of that ancient of days, the Oldest Inhabitant, who is cheerfully credited with much of the information contained in these lines. Thus the excursion into the realm of intimate research of life in Hackensack begins on March 6, 1858, sixty-three years ago, when Wm. C. and O. D. Kimball, printers, issued the first number of the Bergen County Journal, a local newspaper v/hich, for its day, was equal to any periodical now published in Bergen county. At that date the Northern railroad construction was just placed under contract, means of travel to the city from the Northern and Hackensack Valleys being by stage or private conveyance. People journeyed from Hackensack to New York by way of Hoboken, to which point they were conveyed by the stage of Richard A. Doremus for 37% cents; the time consumed be- tween the two points was three hours, including many stops and no hold-ups. Isaac Hamilton, superintendent of schools for New Barba- does township (then including Midland), reported 788 children of school age in the seven districts under his jurisdiction, with only 37^4 per cent, in regular attendance. Male teachers were paid an average salary of $397 a year; females, $174 — note this, you pauper-paid teach- ers of today. Mr. Hamilton said in his report: "Spelling, reading and writing do not receive as much attention as their importance demands, whilst more than is necessary is devoted to arithmetic and grammar, or the exercise called parsing." This for the information of present- day educators. The Journal refers to a remarkable political battle in Lodi at this time (sprin? elections always aroused bitter contentions) between Robert Rennie, "Black Republican abolitionist," and John Van Bussum, Democrat. Excitement ran so high that "even the slavery question was ignored," and many citizens were horrified when it became known that a white Democrat was defeated by a black Republican. Mr. Van Bussum, who because of his shrewdness and skill as a political leader, became known as "The Swamp Fox" and his followers as "Swamp Angels," is still living at an age verging upon ninety years. They were "swamp angels" because many of them lived in the low swamp land called "The Risers," a name the significance of which has never been clearly explained by scholar or native legend. In these way-back halcyon days Dan Kelley and other hotel men sold liquor on Sunday and when convicted paid $20 for violating the law; which indicates that it was ever thus with the liquor traffic — never satisfied with legitimate trade. Here enters a bank mystery, always an absorbing topic. Hacken- sack has had sevei'al and this earliest one should not be permitted to escape the chronicler: On a certain day a truckman drove into the slumberous town with a large safe on a truck and asked loungers around the Mansion House for the "Stock Security Bank." There was a pricking up of ears, but the most brilliant gossip of them all was baffled by the mystery. Even Editor Kimball, appealed to as the town directory, scratched his head in vain, and admitted ignoi-ance until he visited the county clerk's office and found the concern officially re- corded. Under these trying conditions the truck driver was excused for the vigor of his exclamation, "What a hell of a bank is it when nobody knows where it is?" And one is not surprised to learn that the bank belied its name "Security" by "busting up" in six months, as the Journal informed its readers. Editor Kimball, we take it, was more popular than some of his successors of the craft in the town, for it is of record in various issues of his Journal that he was serenaded by the church choir; also that he received sundry pies and cakes from "Mr. Shuman, the village bakei'." Music seems to have had charms for soothing the weary brain of the overworked editor, if he is to be judged by the manner in which he acknowledged all the melodious courtesies showered upon him. At this period "The Green" was a subject of acrimonious conten- tion between the Church people and common citizens of the town. The people wanted the spot enclosed with a railing; the consistory ob- jected and combatted; but the people won out and contributed $200 for the iron railing. This led Editor Kimball to manifest his satisfac- tion in these glowing words: "It is our duty as Christians, as citizens of Hackensack, as lovers of the beautiful, to insist upon the improve- ment of this spot. It is to Hackensack what the Common is to Bos- ton, what the Central Park will be to New York." So the gnarled and knotted old willows that had stood for a century or more were re- moved and new trees planted, some of them standing today. Those old willows, by the way, were landmarks in many parts of t?ie town and were familiar until within a very recent period. As to tb.e rela- tionship of the Green predicted by the vision of enthusiastic Editor Kimball critics will be circumspectly considerate. During May, 1858, there was at least the incipience of a building boom in the to\vn; for the editor tells of a visit to "The Corners" (Main and Passaic streets), and the pleasure he experienced at finding two houses being built on River street by G. M. Anderson, "nearly opposite his own spacious and elegant mansion." Anderson and Ward streets were opened from Main to River street, and Anderson street bridge was subsequently built. Because of the prominence and popularity of the bridegroom we make reference to the record of the marirage, by the Rev. Alexander Warner of the First Reformed Church, of David Ackerman Pell of Saddle River and Catherine Ann, daughter of John J. Ackerman of New Bidge. At the present date Mr. Pell is the oldest living ex-sheriff of Bergen county; he was the first Republican to be elected to that office. On the 11th of July, 1921, he celebrated his ninetieth birthday and received hundreds of friends. "Uncle John" B. Zabriskie, first letter carrier of Hackensack, is now bowing to the reader. Uncle John was a village character, con- fiding and more strongly entrenched behind the Golden Rule than many of the citizens who employed him to carry their mail and never paid for the service. His hat was his mail bag, and he was on duty daily regardless of weather; provided, there was no Sunday school picnic scheduled; for it is recorded in The Journal that on the occasion of the Methodist picnic there would be no mail delivery by the private car- rier. Uncle John had his price — ice cream tempted him and he fell. That the sweet has lost none of its alluring seductiveness is amply testified in this day. The first uniformed letter carriers in town were Garret Campbell, Abram Burr and Charles Granholm. Professor Andrew Jackson Devoe, the local weather prophet, with many other readers, will be interested in this reference to the last week in June, 1858 — it is the temperature as recorded by Wm. Greig of Lodi, who kept a weather record: 102, 102, 102, 103, 101, 94. During this same week the strawberry season reached its highest point — Captain Dick Hawkey reported that 1,100 wagons carrying 1,500,000 baskets of the delicate berries passed the Second tollgate, of which he was the keeper. The perfume of the fragrant fruit spread far abroad, and this record shipment was subject for general conversation. "O. B." wrote to The Journal in May "a few thoughts on our beau- tiful village, which has remained in status quo for nearly half a cen- tury." There were no animating diversions: no circuses, no minstrels, theatricals, movies or vamps to give life to the monotony of bucolic existence — nothing but choir concerts, picnics, straw rides in winter, apple parings, husking bees, spelling matches, and quilting parties from which happy swains "saw sweet Nelly home." This writer said that the prevailing peace was so intense that "lawyers could not incite the people to contention during six days nor the preacher keep them awake on the seventh." From which it is inferred that there has al- ways been a sympathetic and soporific relationship between pulpit and pew. Independence Day, 1858, was celebrated in a manner to arouse the liveliest patriotic enthusiasm. "Old Bergen," the ancient cannon used to make the "big noise" on all special occasions, contributed a boom for every star on the flag, "while almost every one was firing cannons, guns, pistols or fire crackers," and "there was never before so many persons within the limits of our village." The parade show^ed the Rifles "much improved in their new plumes," the Continentals "executed the maneuvers with the precision of veterans." and the colonel and staff, "uniformed according to army regulations, made a gallant appearance on their gallant steeds"; as for the Union Brass Band, its music was heavenly. In those days they read the "Immortal Declaration," and the orator had the American Eagle scx'eaming and flitting from crag to crag. The fireworks, made in Hackensack by Henry J. S. Hall, a resident, were marvelous, and this was the grand finale: "Of mosaic fires, ninety feet in length, enclosing the glorious era of national independence — 1776 — decorated with scrolls of colored fires inclosed by batteries of colored roman candles, forming an arch over the whole piece, terminating with a grand fl.ight of rockets, serpents, etc., and feu de joie." The Spirit of '76 had not been retired to ccld storage in 1858 by a New America eager to cater to new thoughts antagonistic to sentiments handed down by the makers of the Republic — nothing must be done in these present days that may possibly ofl'end the sensibilities of foreigners within our gates: we must even eliminate from our patriotic songs lines calculated to grate upon the sensitive ears of an alien who can vote and must therefore be treated gently. In April, 1861, Editor Kimball of The Journal went to "the seat 6 of war with Company K, Second regiment, with eight or nine other persons from Bergen county." He returned temporarily the following August, and resigned his editorship in patriotic utterances so displeas- ing to the anti-war and copperhead sentiment of the community that much support was withdrawn from the paper. (Citizens of Hacken- sack were rabid in their opposition to the Union cause.) The next tWo copies of the paper were issued under the guidance of "The Devil," who wrote Finis to the history of The Bergen County Journal, a fine type of "country newspaper." It was during the conscription days of the war period that the copperhead element of the community raised its head, displayed its poisonous fangs and hissed enmity to the cause of the Union. There were numerous tents on the Green, where a squad was on duty for re- cruiting. Jerry Demarest, deputy United States marshal, was especial- ly obnoxious to the non-Union element, and one evening a hoodlum crowd gathered and proceeded to rag him. He escaped through the aid of a friend, before a party of armed Republicans assembled and put the rabble to rout. This was only one incident indicating an an- tagonistic sentiment to the administration. The Republicans placed a Liberty Cap on the top of a flagpole on the Green. Democrats bored holes in the pole near its base, filled them with powder and the dis- charge jarx'ed the cap off the pole. And it is said that the crowd tore up the flag that was flying from the pole. While Democrats were thus active in opposition to the war the leaders of that party were profit- ing by traflSc in bounty swindles. It was in 1861 that the old town received the first call to arise, stretch itself and throw off the lethargy of the past. Accoi'ding to an ancient of days with a memory as long as his patriarchal white beard, people from the surrounding country, especially the young folks, walked barefoot to the edge of the village; then they would brush the dust from their feet and sturdy ankles, don stockings and shoes and proceed decorously to church. This system of economy, made practical today, would be a sad blow to shoe profiteers. Now the railroad was built from the Erie near Rutherford (then Boiling Springs) to Essex street, Hackensack. Richard Doremus, who ran a stage to Hoboken and to Boiling Springs — the latter to accommo- date commuters on the Erie — abandoned the stage lines and was made the first conductor on the steam railroad. The first trains ran to Essex street; then the line was extended to Passaic street; next a block further to Anderson street; then to New Bridge (afterward to Cherry Hill, now North Hackensack), and next to Hillsdale. The fii'st "train" was composed of the locomotive, tender and one car, and the schedule time from Essex street to Long Dock (Jersey City) was fifty minutes. One day the Hackensack draw-bridge was open for a schooner beating up against the wind. Engineer Ben Carley — perhaps inspired by a thought that he could jump the gap — ran his machine into the river. The car broke loose and hung over the edge, about two-thirds on the rails. This gave the passengers opportunity to escape unharmed, while Carley and fireman Dory Van Buren swam ashore. Everybody had a remarkably narrow escape, since the bowsprit of the schooner perforated the side and roof of the iron car. It would have made a splendid scene for a movie. It was many years from that date before the Erie company would permit a locomotive of the Hackensack line to run on its rails — they had to stop at the junction, where the cars were attached to Erie trains. James Blauvelt, second conductor on this new railroad that carried citizens so expeditiously to and from the city, is living in Hackensack today, up in the eighties as to age and vigorous in health. "Jim" Blau- velt became the most popular employe of the railroad as well as winning great favor with his neighbors; as a result of which regard he was nominated for sheriff on the Democratic ticket. But the bosses of the party did not look upon him with favor, and according to the custom under such conditions, the leaders and their most prominent workers "went hunting" on election day, and "Jim" Blauvelt was defeated. At that date a Democratic nomination was equivalent to an election when the leaders were in harmony with the nominee, which Avas never the case where there was doubt of their ability to control the winner. Coming down the years to half a century ago, the stranger found at least parts of Hackensack to present a beauty and charm present in few other places. Essex street, with its tall over-arching trees, was an avenue in Arcadia. The early riser, strolling along this inviting highway, up the slope to the crest of Red Hill, could revel in the ravish- ing beauty of a summer sun coming over the distant Palisades, and flooding the sky v/ith rose tints; here and there wood or ravine showed in deep shadow^, while the course of the distant river was traced along its turns and reaches by miasmatic mists soon to be dispelled by the glowing warmth of daj'. And then the matin music of myriad song- birds enchanting the listener! Red Hill was a delightful retreat from the fervid heat of mid-afternoon. Here one could lie in the shadow of wide-spreading branches, with or without Bread, Wine, Verse and Thou, dream the happy hours away watching fleecy fleets scudding across the blue sky, and in the distance an occasional sailing craft, canvas flap- ping idly, moving lazily on the sluggish tide between shores of far- reaching marshland. An enchanted spot for the idler seeking release from the haunts of man. And here one could wander in the cool of evening when the shadows lengthened as the sun dipped behind the rampart of mountains forming the western horizon, creating a picture to inspire painter's brush and poet's pen. The moment suggests the "Sunset" of Velma West Sykes: Across the western sky the gold-edged clouds Stand, like huge mountains that their outlines shift, While in the east a twilight arch appears And tips with crimson bridal veils that drift Across the pale moon's face. The sun's last fiery lance now pierces through The clouds, and like a mist the twilight creeps, Flooding the valleys, climbing to the hills — Night spreads the couch where weary Nature sleeps ; The sun has left no trace. Now, while the bright moon rides 'mid starry isles. And sheds its borrowed light upon the earth, We know the sun has never really set. But for day's death the night would have no birth — So rule the laws of space. And when our souls have crossed the mystic line Where lie beyond the Blessed Isles of Light, Though we are gone, perhaps our lives may shed Some rays to pierce the gloom of someone's night — Till time shall them erase. In the earlier dates of this chronicle there was merely a common wagon track on the Heights, from Essex street to Passaic street. The only buildings within this territory were the farm house of J. B. Conk- lin and the Thoma Jewelry Factory with the dwellings of employes, standing about where the residences of Mallet, Ramey and Oliver are. On what is now Hospital Place were the residences of E. M. Mason and Horatio Bogert, the latter being later the entrance to the hospital. South of Essex street were the residences of Frederick Jacobson and Henry F. Kent, which are still standing but owned by other parties; below them, on Pclifly road, was the residence of Edward E. Poor, and north of it on the corner the old farm house of Jane Demarest. The dwellings for the jewelry factory were moved down the east side of the hill to what is now Third street and remodeled into acceptable res- idences. A dramatic incident in the history of the Thoma factory was furnished by a noted burglar named Captain Marshall, who robbed the 9 place and buried a real pot of gold under a nearby tree. When be re- turned to get the loot he was aiTested, but through the skill of his counsel ("Young Garry" Ackerson) he escaped punishment for the crime. The evening of the day when the Captain was released the lawyer gave him $2 and said: "Now, damn you, get away from here before you are taken on a more serious charge." Being a criminal of discernment. Captain Marshall stood not upon the order of his going but covered the distance to Fort Lee ferry at his best speed. What is now the attractive grounds of the Hackensack Golf Club was then a meadow where lowing kine fed on lush grass. In fact, nearly all of Red Hill was then farm land, where parties of youth went nutting by day and lovers went "nutty" under the shimmering moon's seductive glow. Passaic and Essex were the only streets running west of the railroad. The streets of the town were mud beds in wet seasons and dust beds when dry — on occasions of sudden wind storms in summer dust clouds suggesting desert sand storms obscured the sunlight and caused the tidy housewife to mourn for her scrupulously groomed home. Cross-town streets were so miry that drivei's of delivery wagons fre- quently refused to venture upon them. An incident is recalled when the carriage of Frederick Jacobson, then president of the Hackensack Im- provement Commission, was mired on Essex street west of the railroad crossing; planks had to be broupht before he could be rescued and the team and vehicle released. In the way of giving credit, it is appropriate to state that the cross-streets of the town were named by Judge John Huyler, who selected for them the names of several counties of the state: Essex, Morris, Bergen, Warren, Mercer, Salem, Camden, Passaic. The Judge, who seems to have been a somewhat public-spirited citizen, was knock- ed down on Court street bridge by a drunken man and died from the injury received. But it took many years for the spirit of public enterprise to stir the people of the town. Time was when none but property owners could vote for commissioners or be elected commissioner; and on one occasion a $100 lot was purchased for an impecunious Democrat who it was desired to have on the municipal body. When a movement for permanent street improvement was started it met with determined opposition; the idea of spending $60,000 for macadamizing was looked upon as starting Hackensack on the road to ruin. Nevertheless, ma- cadam won — and that was the beginning of good road building in the county seat. Time's mutations won against the handicap of an old Dutch clement averse to modern ideas of improvement and comfort. Since that period the town has kept in fair step with the march of 10 progress: note this especially in the splendidly equipped fire depart- ment with its motor apparatus, perfect alarm system, and constantly drilled firemen always on duty — a fire-fighting department equal to the best in the cities. And at this writing a new department headquarters has been built on State street neax'ly opposite the post office, while the old fire house is to be converted into police headquarters with a public comfort station adjoining. Sidewalks are always an interesting subject — to some, a fascina- tion; therefore not to be passed over without suitable observation. As far back as 1861 a writer in The Journal commented upon an "aris- tocratic tendency" on the part of certain people who were removing boards and putting down flagstone walks. But these were isolated in- stances; the "aristocracy" was limited and not given to ostentatious displays of affluence. Thousands of feet of narrow boards remained to warp in the fervid sun and then rise up to strike the pedestrian in tender spots or trip him to a fall that called for objurgatory language that required expiatory orisons. The gaslights were so dim that a tallow dip was insulted by comparison, and people had to carry lanterns v>^hen abroad at night. Electric lights of today are not deemed satis- factory, but incandescent lamps are a fairly acceptable illuminant — preferable to blinding lights on motor vehicles. And it is worthy of note that the electric lights are not run by old moon schedule, being unlighted between the first and last quarter of the moon, whether it v/as aglow or under cloud obscuration. Many 100 candle power lights are being installed at conspicuous points, showing that the Commission wishes to let its light shine with appropriate brilliance. Business men of old Hackensack, generally trading in a small way, may be presented as follows — beginning at Morris street and moving north up Main: Feldman, Benz, Sam Hooter (the first Jew in the town), Aunt Patty's candy shop, John Will Terhune, Dave Huyler, Demarest, Billy Christie, Stephen Terhune, 'Squire Zabriskie, First National Bank, Mansion House, Jake Tanis, Adams' drug store. South of Morris street v.'as the home of Counselor Manning M. Knapp, after- ward Justice of the Supreme Court, a talented gentleman who manifest- ed pride in fruits, flowers and amateur astronomy. His next door neighbor was Dr. Henry A. Hopper, leading physician. The homes of David Terhune and "Young Garry" Ackerson faced the end of Main street. On the corner of Main and Hudson was Ed. Earle's general store, afterward Terhune & Westervelt (David Terhune and E. Erskine Westervelt). Next came the creek, where the schooner A. 0. Zabriskie delivered freight once a week. Adjoining the creek on the north was a two-story building where The Journal was printed, in which the Bergen County Democrat was started, and in which Cap. Walters conducted 11 an oyster house that was a popular resort where people representing all types of social cult ate oyster stews the recipe for making which was an art that perished with Cap. Walters. One of those stews, with a dish of "oyster crackers," is a memory to evoke a sigh. The John L. Earle residence stood near the comer of Main and Court streets, at the Avest end of the new court house plot. Around the cor- ner on Court street was George Halstead's Bazar, and Louis Napp's locksmith and gunsmith shop. Continuing up Main street from Ber- gen, business names include Dick Paul Terhune (now House of Flow- ers); Wm. Winant, shoemaker; Shuman, the man who favored the Journal's editor with cake and cookies; "Daddy" Burnsides, whose little shop had liberal patronage; Louis Perrot, a butcher who dressed his own meat and became a town commissioner; Mrs. Conklin, dealer in latest style millinery; Voorhis & Westervelt, grocers, afterward Bar- tholf; the Bank of Bergen County, in Bicher's building; Hopper, W. W. Harper, Van Park's grist m.ill, Bax & Son, Dr. R. W. Farr, Van Buskirk, Berry & Sons, Cleveland, Irish. The old county clerk's office stood where the Susquehanna railroad tracks now cross Main street, and Dr. George Terhune's office was a neighbor. Across the street, standing in a large plot of ground, was the old Moore mansion, a build- ing around which many weird ghost stories were woven by persons of fantastic imagination. Jake Lozier, the postmaster and grocer, known for the fervency of his appeals to the Throne of Grace in Methodist meetings, comes in here; then George Ackerman, sash and blind maker. A jump from Ackerman to Anderson Hall and John J. Ander- son's store, while on the opposite corner is found the store of John H. T. Banta in an old stone building a part of which fell in some months ago; and a block up, comer of Ward street, was Jacob Demarest, undertaker. Living near to Dr. M. R. Brinkman's home was Anthony Fatan, the man who paid the late Patrick Byrne to restore the slab on the grave of General Poor. On the northwest corner of Main and Passaic streets (now Bedell's garage) stood a stone building known as the "Old Fort." Here Dr. W. H. Hall had a drug store, V/ill Hen Ackerman a market and residence; and in this building in February, 1865, the proposed charter members of Pioneer Lodge, Free and Ac- cepted Masons, met and prepared their petition to the Grand Lodge. Let us saunter back to the lower part of the village and observe life around the Green, which has always been the focal point for events of public and private concern. When Lafayette visited this country he rode through Hackensack on his way to Paterson; young women strewed flowers in front of his horse and he was entertained at the old Campbell Tavern. The committee of entertainment was composed of the socially select, with the most charming daughters assisting their 12 mothers at table. Aunt Sophie Earle was one of the favored misses, and it was her delight to recite her remembrance of the event even up to a short time before her death, which occurred at the age of one hundred and one years. The writer of these rambling notes takes Satanic pride, as it were, in boasting that he vamped Aunt Sophie on her one hundredth birthday and kissed her on one of her rosy cheeks; and he informs prohibitionists, with bubbling glee, that the dear old girl was soothed to sleep every night by an honest to goodness "night cap." Will some "dry" stand up and assert that she might have lived many years more had she refi'ained from flirting with the Demon in the poisonous bowl? On the south side of the Green stood the Hackensack House, a tavern dating back into the Revolutionary period, at least as to one part of the building. Here was shown for many, many years a table bearing the hole of a bullet fired through a window by a Hessian soldier when the hirelings of the English passed through this village. Ob. Van Saun, Pete Van Riper, John Ryan and Billy Cronkright were well kno-WTi successive proprietors of this house. The place, especially during Ryan's management, was the rendezvous for lively sleighing parties from Paterscn, Englewood, Union Hill, Hoboken and other localities. When the wild men and women came up from Hudson county they owned the house from wine cellar to attic — especially the cellar. As indicating the condition of affairs on such occasions the fact is related that one night a Sunday school party stopped for re- freshments and ordered twenty lemonades. The barkeeper didn't pause in his task of filling wine glasses with the bubble stuff but answered, "Oh. hell, we've got no time to mix soft drinks." It was Bob McCaig's political followers, with their wives, sweetheai'ts, etc., who were in possession. There v.'ere several fine singers in the party and their songs were applauded by the company, with emphasis of popping corks flfying ceilingward followed by showers of fizz water. In the dancing there were no shimmies, trots, tangoes or glides, but the good old lancers, schottische, waltz, and varsouvienne were turned into a revel more hilarious than any seen in Belgium's capital on a certain night memorable in the history of the Little Corporal. At moments when the young blood ran too swiftly Bob McCaig appeared upon the scene and admonished his followers that they must not forget the limit — being in a strange land they must set a good example. Those familiar with a Hudson county crowd on a sleigh ride can understand the "limit." Under Pete Van Riper's rule the house had wide repute for the clambakes served to patrons, especially the butchers who came from Washington Market — a somewhat free-and-easy crowd that did not hesitate to "run" the toll-gates. But on one occasion Tom Pickens, 13 who kept the Little Ferry gate, opened the draw-bridge and held them up until thej'^ made good. During one of those old-fashioned winters occasionally referred to today by people on the thither slope of time, the Hackensack House v/as open day and night, Sunday included, for three weeks. The Mansion House was also largely patronized. Hun- dreds of "mill girls" were brought over from Paterson to study rural life and customs; and parties came in from remote villages and farm- ing communities. All these, with jingling bells, blast of horas, laughter and singing, filled the nights with music. Many parties from Hackensack went up to Johnny Ramsey's at "Wyckoff, Dave Naugle's Paramus road house, (a real old-time tavern), or to Wortendyke's at Hillsdale, where Yaan Moore or "Nigger Glaus," raised upon a table in one corner, scraped his old fiddle and called the figures of the lancers, while light and heavy feet made the floor shake. Wortendyke had a marvelous recipe for old-fashioned hot spiced rum which he com- pounded in a large earthen crock and maintained at even temperature. Give a Volstead agent today one tumbler of that beverage and he would cry, "Repeal that act! Prohibition is dead, never to be I'esurrected!" And who recalls those farther back days when the dance hall at Naugle's was lighted with candles the tallow from which dripped do\vn upon the shoulders of women sitting upon benches under the ledge above where the "dips" were ranged? Oh, sweethearts and wives! Those dear departed days (and nights), when life was one blissful round of joyous revelry, chicken dinners and — home with the girls in the morning! The youth of nineteen twenty-two imagines that life is devilish, but it hasn't even a dream of fifty and more years ago when present grandsires and some greats drained the cup of unalloyd hap- piness. But even the halcyon happiness of those who took their pleasure in large sleighing parties had merely a demure form of winter pleasure compared with the festivities described by "Young Garry," Abe Camp- bell (each prosecutor of the pleas in succession), and Nick Demarest (afterward sheriff') : When they were young and life was rushing at the flood, a party of a dozen or more, each fellow with his own "girl" and fancy cutter, started out and made a round of popular taverns or homes for three or four days, winding up at that old Vanderbeck Tavern in this spry hamlet with a rollicking jollification. Looking at that "humbly" pile of old stones today — only the imagination can pic- ture it as the scene of social splendor and hilarity of "them days that was but hain't to be no more forever." [Since penning these lines the old landmark has been removed.] Looking at Main street today, who would imagine that it was at one time a race course where blooded horses and sporty owners skim- 14 med the surface of snow and ice in competition for the speed marathon prize — wagers "on the side," for there was no open betting. This winter race course attracted people in great crowds, even from Pater- son and Passaic; they stood two and three deep on both sides of the street from the railroad crossing to the Mansion House, which was the goal. A woman from Passaic drove a fine sorrel that had speed and endurance which kept the mere men guessing where they were at. She was sporty but modest, and was loudly applauded. Winners were cheered; bartenders worked at high pressure; wine flowed in the par- lors, while the real stuff with a bite to it was tossed across the bar and down the throats of admirers of the racers and their drivers, the win- ners usually "paying the shot." Abe Brownson, who had the Mansion House in the early seventies, was something more than a taveni keeper; he was a man with capacity for conducting a hotel, and as such was widely known. While resident of Hackensack he became a noted personality, especially when driving his piebald horse attached to a light buggy. Coming back to the Campbell tavern: The old chronicles tell us that Washington, who slept in the new residence of "Mr. Zabriskie," now the Mansion House, on the occasion of his retreat from Fort Lee, his army resting on the Green, had his meals served from the tavern table; and when he mounted his charger to start across the Jerseys, proprietor Archie Campbell handed him a "stirrup cup" of wine; and if the historian is correct Father George advised Archie to remain neutral when the British came in — sound advice under the circum- stances. In that same old "public" there was an upper room reached by an outside stairway. In that apartment at a later period Democrats held their political meetings, which were occasionally marked by vigor of speech and action. At one of these parleys some form of disturbing element gained the ascendancy, the proceedings becoming so obstreper- ously annoying that Sam Dawson and Captain Dick Hawkey had to clear the room. Those who recall these two stalwarts have no hesitancy in crediting the story of the animated scene that ensued when they broke into action. "Old Sam Dawson" v^^as a man of rugged physique; one hand had been mutilated by the loss of two fingers, but his grip was vice-like; as to his voice, it was a suppressed roar, and his valor undaunted. On one occasion he challenged an offending citizen to mortal combat, and wags encouraged the joke to the point of inducing the old fellow to march up Red Hill at daylight armed with a rusty old sword. The old challenger returned in due time, a hungry and angrier man, declaring: "The dam coward didn't come up; but I'll thrash him the first time I see him." "Dawson Row," on the south side of Morris 15 street west of Main, was a landmark known to all residents; and in one of the little buildingr. "Daddy Alcock" served oysters and ale, a favorite refection of the day. Another Old Timer of this period and locality was Abe Van Sciven, familiar to some as "The Harbinger of Spring," a title earned by his habit of appearing in his shirt sleeves at the first mellowing of what seemed to be departing winter's temperature; then he would be found at the corner of Main and Morris streets, chewing tobacco and dispensing oracular viev/s with the positiveness of a village gossip intrenched in his leadership. When a doubter was informed that "Abe Van Sciven said so," the argument was sealed. Abe was the father of "Benny," a chip of the old block in some respects; but Benny v/as under the spell of wanderlust and was never in Hackensack long enough to become a corner fixture. The winter through which we have just passed was mild, but bore no relationship to that balmy year when Abe Van Sciven appeared on New Year's day with his shirt sleeves rolled to the elbow, deceiving the birds of the air and leading clothiers to reduce the price of top coats. This incident of one Old Timer admon- ishes the narrator where he would "arrive at" should he wander afield without compass or rudder. Time is on the wing, and 't were better to hasten with him. Here is the "Washington Institute," corner of Main and Warren streets. In this building, where there is a public school class on the upper floor and The Hackensack Republican has its home on the first, the modeni school system of Hackensack was born. Here "Shorty" Williams, Waltermire and Wilcox sti-uggled with the young idea; and Bob Amos, a reliable authority on many questions of the past, confessed that "Shorty used to whale us boys good and proper." Occasionally a citizen with silver-gray locks enters The Republican office on business and glancing around remarks: "I got some of my education in this building; I used to set (they rarely sit) right over there." It is ad- mitted that discipline was lax in the Washington Institute school at this period; but one day a new teacher was introduced. He was a young man of athletic build, with full chin whisker, a voice to command attention and an eye to engage respect. The pupils were not long in deciding that Nelson Haas (afterward Ph. D.) was the school master as well as teacher. He had the backing of the three trustees of the district, David Terhuns, Judge George W. V\'^heeler and James M. Van Valen (afterward County Judge). They wei'e men of fine intellect and business ability, and two of them had been school teachers. Recogniz- ing the talent of young Haas, they gave him full sway. That his career was a verification of their judgment and confidence is known to many citizens of Hackensack. It soon developed that Hackensack v/as in 16 need of better school facilities, and one night, after a stormy discussion that shook the walls of the old Institute, the anti-improvement element was routed by a large majority, a new building was voted, and Union street school was the result. The school system was fostered and ex- panded by Dr. Haas until it became noted throughout the state and beyond. His pupils won so many cadetships to West Point and Annapolis, under competitive examinations for children in the three counties of the congressional district, that some of the competing schools ungenerously implied possible unfairness in the examinations. At length one member of congress declined to order a competition — he appointed a boy of his personal choice to West Point, and that lad was "plucked" when he took the entrance examination at the Military Academy. Dr. Haas was an ideal educator — a teacher who taught his pupils; he did not merely give them tasks and leave them to succeed or fail without assistance where that was necessary. While brusque of manner, peppery of temper, and a disciplinary martinet, his pupils generally held him in high esteem for kindness and helpfulness in leading them over the stumbling blocks of study in lessons beyond the grasp of their young minds. He had little patience with shirkers — slackers of the school room — but he took especial piide in the boy or girl who displayed zeal and determination in overcoming difficulties. He was an admirer of American grit in our youth. Some of his friends called Dr. Haas "Old Mathematics," for there was little in that science v/hich he could not master. He was the man who laid the foundation for the splendid school system of Hackensack and built the magnificent superstructure which stands today a monument to his remai'kable talent and achievement. Because of this exceptional teacher and executive of the school room many have been led to believe that there is something beyond mere figures and signs in mathematics and the relation of that study to higher and better education. And yet some moderns taboo "math." Before the Washington Institute was rebuilt of brick in 1847, it was a stone building standing sidewise to Main street. It was then a private school presided over by Dr. Peter Wilson, noted patriot, pro- fessor in Columbia University and member of Assembly. In the latter capacity, the question of locating Queen's College (Rutgers) at New Brunswick or Hackensack, came up and Dr. Wilson's modesty would not permit him to cast the deciding vote for his own town. That is why Hackensack is not a college town. This old Washington Institute was also, at one time, the home of the Hackensack Library Association and the Hackensack Lyceum. Religious services, lectures, concerts and other entertainments were held in that upper room; and there the first service of the Episcopal 17 (Christ) church was held. May it be that the kindly spirits of past associations have the editor of The Republican in their keeping, inbue him with gentleness and tenderness toward his fellow men and women, and smooth for him the rugged path and strife of a wandei'er in this vale of wickedness ? The Hackensack Library Association was organized about 1871, and had as first officers these well-known gentlemen: Fi'ed'k Jacobson, sr., president; Dr. R. W. Farr, treasurer; W. Irving Comes, secretary; E. E. Poor, James Quackenbush, W. I. Comes, John N. Gamewell, trus- tees. Mrs. Julia Friend was librarian for eight years — she and Mr. Comes are the only survivors of those named. In 1877 the young men of the Lyceum took charge of the Library (which was in the Institute). In 1885 the "Library Girls" assumed the management of this growing institution, and by faithful devotion and unselfish effort maintained a circulating medium for the entertainment and edification as well as education of citizens who sought recreation and knowledge through the volumes procured with the scanty means grudgingly provided. These names of "Library Girls" are copied from the records: Misses Carrie Acton, Willie Angle, Belle Britton, Eddie Broughton, Kittie Chrystal, Annie Gumming, Lillie Gumming, Mary Gamewell, Effie Gardner, Eva Hasbrcuck, May Moses, Nina Price, Kittie Rennie, (Mrs.) J. A. Romeyn, Jennie Sage, Anna Stagg, Fannie DeWolf Conklin, Emily Taplin, Susan Taplin, Anna Williams (now Dr. Anna, bacterio- logist in New York city), Helen F. Voorhis. To these a member adds the names of Jennie Hatfield, Amelia Williams, Mrs. H. Myers Bogert, Louise Clarendon, and Edith Bogert. The nucleus established by fii'st makers of the Library and fostered by the labor of love of the young grew into the present splen- did Johnson Public Librar3r provided through the liberality and public spirit of the Hon. William M. Johnson. It is now maintained at public expense. Citizens who sometimes feel that the number of new books placed upon the shelves should be materially increased to meet the growing demand should consider the fact that the institution is in the hands of an experienced librarian (Miss Mary Boggan) and is managed with economy in every detail. Two or three thousand dollars a year added to the running expense fund would go far toward meeting the increased demand for books. One of the most popular organizations of the past in Hackensack was Company C, Second Battalion. It was formed October 8, 1872, through the efforts of Counselor James M. Van Valen. Counselor Garret G. Ackerson, jr., was chosen captain; James M. Van Valen, first lieutenant; Nicholas C. Demarest, second lieutenant. George T. Har- ing, formerly of the crack Seventh New York, was first sergeant and 18 drillmaster, positions which he filled in a manner that brought the company up to a degree of enviable proficiency in the manual of arms; and subsequently, when John Engel was made a lieutenant, Company C became known as the prize skirmish drill command of the New Jersey National Guard. This company's first active field duty was in the railroad strike of '77, when it was stationed at Port MuiTay guard- ing railroad property while anxious ones at home wondered how their dear boys were faring. This campaign was scarcely less strenuous than the week of the great Deckerto\^^l encampment on the farm of General Judson Kilpatrick, the dashing cavalry commander in the Army of the Potomac. The General was a regular traveler on the Susquehanna railroad, where he became acquainted with many Hack- ensack men, and when he arranged for his war celebration Company C had to take the most prominent part. Thousands of people from all parts of New Jersey flocked to the little town in the hills of Sussex and walked the two or more miles of the dustiest roads imaginable to the General's farm, where sleek belted cattle grazed on hill, slope and meadow. It was in this beautiful though dust-covered environ- ment that Company C, commanded by Lieutenant Engel, covered itself with glory all its own and won the admiration of the onlooking thou- sands, especially those beautiful and buxum Sussex county girls. When the battery of artillery on one of the hilltops began to thunder defiance, Lieutenant Engel gave the command, "Fix bayonets!" then "Charge!" the deployed column of grim heroes of the coal pockets of Port Murray started at double quick, and in about ten minutes there- after, when the smoke of conflict had floated away and the lowing kine bellowed from the adjacent tall timber, the cornfield thx'ough which the charge had passed was a scene as the morning after the night when "the Assyrian came down like a wolf on the fold" — not a stalk nor ear was seen where they had so lately been. The havoc was horrifying, and there is no record in the history of Sussex county of a day when the stock of Apple Jack was so nearly reduced to a condition of parch- ing drought. There is avouchment for the declaration that the con- tents of a ten-gallon "kag" which a certain well-known politician car- ried into Company C's camp on his broad shoulders the previous night, under the eyes of the Man in the Moon, were drained to the last drop and late comers were fain to content themselves with the aggravation of a "whiff from the bung-hole." Company C's original roster con- tained 118 names; of these 32 are accounted for as alive today. The Hackensack Lyceum was an important factor in the social life of Hackensack. Members contributed personally in the entertainment of the public, and as a body were instrumental in securing prominent lecturers and professional talent for concerts, etc. Names of the 19 Lyceum members, furnished by several survivors, are given herewith: Milton Demarest, Peter W. Stagg, James A. Romeyn, Walter Christie, Frederick Lydecker, H. Edgar Mason, Thomas B. Chrystal, Frederick Jacobson, jr., Arthur Curtis, G. B. Harper, James M. Gardner, E, A. Spear, Frederick A. Poor, Frank D. Gamewell, A. S. Demarest, H. C. Budlong, John H. Cadmus, Abram DeBaun, J. P. Campbell, Walter F. Farr, Arthur W. Pierce, Robex-t Gillham, M. C. Gillham, John Chrystal, Philip H. Williams, Holden Speer, E. P. Macomber, Charles A. Conklin. In addition to the Old Church on the Green and the stone part of the Washington Mansion House, Hackensack has several buildings dating back of the century mark into those "days that tried men's souls." The most wayback of these is the "Old Stone House" on Essex street west of the railroad crossing, now owned and occupied by Counselor John S. Mabon, whose wife is a granddaughter of the Brink- erhoff who was second owner of the premises. A stone in the east end of the house bears the date 1704, showing that it is 217 years old. On Main street north of Bergen is the Doremus house, owned by that "Dick" Doremus who was last of the stage drivers. Next north is the stone house of the first Adam Boyd, whose family was connected with the Revolutionary Schuylers; and men and women of an earlier day used to tell of the lavish hospitality dispensed where now fruits and vegetables, including onions and garlic, are sold. The second door north of The Republican office is the celebrated Peter Wilson house — on the lintel of one window is cut in the stone, "Peter Wilson, 1787," on the other, "Catherine Wilson." Fronting on Moore street, in the rear cf the Telephone Exchange, is the "Vanderbeck House," built in 1717, and noted as the home of "Aunt Sally Hering." In cutting through the stone wall of this building to make a new doorway it was found necessary to use heavy chisel and hammers to break the solid mass of masonry put together when material and workers were honest. The Vanderbeck Tavern, the original part of Oritani Field Club house, and the Bogart house corner of Main and Ward streets, are all links v/ith the past. Visitors to the Mansion House will find two rooms of especial interest. They are the main parlor and Room 19 on the second floor, one with brown the other blue tiling in the blind fireplaces. These tiles, brought from Holland, picture well known Bible scenes: Here Daniel may be seen sitting on a rock surrounded by fawning lions that may have been borrowed from the zoo of a modern movie outfit; Joseph, the undefiled, who, like some of our Princeton students, never polluted his lips by kissing a woman, fleeing from Mrs. Potiphar, the original vamp, who holds his cloak in her grasp as she reclines invitingly on a couch; Pharaoh's daughter, who "went down to the water to bathe at 20 the close of the day" and found little Moses in his wicker basket among the rushes. And there are the wicked children of Jericho who mocked Elisha, crying "Go up, thou baldhead," and now being overtaken by savage bears hungering for the flesh of naughty kids; and Joseph's brethren casting him into a pit before they soil his coat with goat's blood and return home to tell dad how he was devoured by wild beasts; mark these Roman soldiers dicing for the Sivior's vesture; observe David preparing to sling the stone from the brook, the missile with which he tapped Goliath on the "coco" (as per Billy Sunday) and laid him out for decapitation and the obsequies; and many more pictures for the study of Bible students and others interested in sacred history. The Old Washington Mansion House, in this respect, supplies material found in no other local building of long ago. The Washington Bank was started in the Mansion House in 1856, with Samuel Taylor, then aged 17, as cashier. The bank was mcved next door to the building now called the "Van Valen Building," where one dark and stormy night (a night prepared for desperate deeds) yegg men, bandits of the period, carried oft* the strong box containing $50,000. The Washington Bank never recovered from this unkind treatment. It expired at the youth- ful age of twelve months. There is another side to this financial story, but charity's mantle shall be drawn about it. A sentence as to room 19, appropriately secluded from prying eyes: In this sacred precinct Democratic slates were made and broken; jack pots were molded with- out potter's clay; kings and queens were enteiiiained. Anderson Hall, built in the sixties, was for a long time the only place v/here public entertainments were given, if the churches are ex- cepted; in the holy edifices, or their lectui-e rooms, lectures and a cer- tain class of concerts were permitted. Blind Tom was exhibited in the hall, and Henrietta Markstein, a pianist of marvelous skill, created a sensation there. Miss Markstein was a j'oung woman of physical spaciousness, and when she first appeared, attired in an elegant eve- ning feown, displaying massive bare arms, there was an audible mani- festation of rudeness in several titters; but after her first number, fol- lowed by the then popular variations on "Old Black Joe," the audience became i*apturous in demonstrations of delight. The tittering jays had never experienced piano music presented by an artist of this young woman's high merit, and she, sensing the caliber of that portion of her audience, ravished them with "popular" music in classic setting. At a much earlier period a Hackensack audience had the rare pleasure of hearing America's great prima donna, Madame Parepa, afterward Parepa-Rosa. We are told by a lady who was a young Miss at the date referred to, that Parepa was visiting a cousin, Mrs. Daniel Sins, who resided on Park street. This lady persuaded the great 21 artist to appear in a concert at Anderson Hall, and her reception was an experience similar to that of the pianist at a later period. Hacken- sack was not educated in opera music nor in the polite proprieties, and the singer was incensed at the boorish conduct manifesting musical illiteracy; but simple ballads, sung as only Parepa could sing them, proved that music within their understanding had charms to stir their very souls and set them "wild." This reminder will recall to many citizens of middle age, the grand opera program presented when the Company C Armory was dedicated. There was considerable feeling in the community over the fact that tickets were priced at $2.50, which was looked upon as outrageous and in the interest of "aristocratic uptown" (for there was a period when feeling between up-town and down-town was pronounced). After this opening of the armory (subsequently dignified as "Opera House") most entertainments were held in that auditorium. Local singing and in- strumental organizations gave their concerts there, many of them presenting soloists representing distinguished talent. And here "Count" Paulison introduced Hackensack audiences to high-class vau- deville once a year. But perhaps the most sensational public entertainment in Hacken- sack within a period of half a century was a local Minstrel show staged in Ii*ving Hall, the old three-story fram.e fire trap which occupied the site of the present Hackensack National Bank and the Hackensack Trust Company. The hall was on the third floor, and every person who attended meeting or show there felt that it was a case of "taking your life in your hands." 'Squire Sam. Campbell was a character of the town, his court being the scene of numerous incidents bordering upon the ridiculous and of the roaring farce type. John P. Campbell, a student in Counselor Knapp's office, but not related to the 'Squire, wrote a sketch entitled " 'Squire Kampbell's Kourt," which was not only the leading attraction of the minstrel show, but created such in- tense feeling that injunctions were talked of and actions for libel threatened. The show was given to an audience filling every foot of space in the room, while many could not get in. The building did not burn; although an injunction was served, there was no action for libel. This building was at one time known as Templar Hall, because the Good Templars held meetings upstairs while John Van Iderstina con- ducted a beer saloon in the basement and created "horrible examples" of Demon Rum victims. When Dr. St. John came to Hackensack he had his first oflfice in Templar Hall. Here, Jaines Ricardo had his undei-taker's office. A beer saloon, a doctor, an undertaker, with a druggist and a tombstone yard adjoining, constituted a combination of businesses rarely found in 22 such intimate and harmonious adjacency. The Hackensack Mutual Building and Loan Association was organized in Irving (formerly Templar) Hall and conducted business there for a time; and the Hack- ensack Republican had its birth on the second floor One of the important businesses of Hackensack sixty and more years ago was the carriage factory of W. H. Berry & Sons. Their car- riages had a repute over an extensive territory, standing in high favor for honest worth. Before the war much of their output was sold in the South. Like some other enterprises of the town the Berry house failed to keep pace with the march of progress, and the firm was even- tually forced out by competition less scrupulous in the class of work marketed. Having pointed out the structures that connect the past and pres- ent, furnishing material for the antiquarian, it is appropriate to note the fact that the first so-called modern or Queen Anne cottage erected in Hackensack was built for two young women, the Misses Ackerman, corner of State and Bergen streets; which gives opportunity for credit- ing women with being first to improve the residence architecture of the town. Within the half century residents have seen remarkable grovrth in improvements in building, public utilities, walks, streets, public and private conveyances, fire and police protection, postal facilities, churches, social organizations, etc. There are now three Reformed (once with the prefix "Dutch") churches, three Presbyterian (one colored), three Baptist (one colored), two Roman Catholic, one inde- pendent Catholic, one Protestant Episcopal, one polyglot, one Metho- dist, one Congregational, one Unitarian, one Christian Science, one Hebrew, with two or three less well known sects on the side, and the Salvation Army. Counting one church society to each 1,000 of popula- tion, Hackensack cannot be charged with undue religious fervor; but the people are not lacking in reverence for sacred things, and they have a decidedly commendable respect for the moral code. As to the police department, the time is almost fresh in mind when it was composed of one man; today it numbers 23 uniformed men, a clerk, a dog catcher; a Recorder whose chief duty is dealing out a cer- tain form of justice to the large and rapidly increasing number of motor vehicle law violators. While the Hackensack Heights Association is to be credited with initiating the development of the Heights section, the fact must not be lost sight of that Frank B. Poor bore a conspicuous part in creating the new town in the northwest, and made the Golf Club a possibility. His brief career benefitted many men who fawned upon him in prosperity and, characteristically, turned the cold shoulder and the cintical tongue 23 of detraction against him in the hour when he failed to come up after the last plunge. It is worthy of note that Leon H. Pratt was the pioneer to venture into the wilderness of Red Hill and establish a modern home there. His residence is now the second house on Overlook avenue, west side, south of Susquehanna street. Hackensack is well supplied with financial ahd savings-loan insti- tutions. The Hackensack National Bank has precedence with banks; next is the Hackensack Trust Company, with savings department; the North Jersey Title Insurance Company, the People's Trust and Guar- anty Company, vnth savings department; and now (December, 1921,) the City National Bank. The Hackensack Mutual Building and Loan Association dates from 1887, before the blizzard year. In addition there are the Industrial Building and Loan, the North Jersey Building and Loan, the Citizens' Building and Loan, the United Building and Loan — each a vital influence in the substantial upbuilding of the town; for every home owner takes personal pride in the community of which he is a unit, and the B. and L. associations must be credited with assisting hundreds of persons to build homes and have them free and clear. An enumeration of secret, social and fraternal organizations in- cludes the Free Masons, Chapter, Eastern Star, colored Freemasons, Odd Fellows, Encampment, colored Odd Fellows, Uhland (German) Odd Fellows, Rebekah Lodge, U. O. S. and D. and B. and S. of Moses, Daughters of Liberty, Junior O. U. A. M., Moose, Elks, Foresters, Royal Arcanum, Knights of Columbus, Red Men, National Union, Union League, Wheelmen, Golf Club, Oritani Field Club, Grand Army of the Republic; Spanish War Veterans, American Legion, Veterans of Foreign Wars, Company G of the Sixth Regiment, Boy Scouts, Camp Fire Girls. The Y. M. C. A., Red Cross, and Woman's Club are espe- cially important factors; the Health Centre with its several clinics stands out boldly; the Children's Relief and General Welfare Society does splendid work in a field indicated by its name. The Old Ladies' Home of Bergen County and the Bergen County Children's Home are located in the town. There is a splendid High School, five intermediate and grammar schools, and two parochial schools; and a new public school in contemplation for the First ward, where birth control is un- known. The Rotary Club may be classed with organizations having public improvement as an object, such as the Real Estate Association, Fifth ward. First ward, and West Side Improvement Associations. The Woman's Club of Hackensack is a youthful body, but it is of sufficient importance as a public influence to be accorded this brief sentence of perpetuation, for the writer holds it as a great moral force and a potent power for elevating the musical and intellectual as well as 24 social life of the city. Mrs. Charles Francis Adams was its founder. Hackensack has been rich in characters. They constituted the Setters' Club; occupied their favorite seats in front of stores or taverns when summer's shade was inviting, and on inclement days and in winter's chill, the bar-room or the grocery was the trysting place for old cronies, who swapped gossip of their past and present as they saturated with tobacco juice the sand-box in which the large globe stove stood. The Setters' Club in John H. T. Banta's store, the old stone building corner of Main and Passaic streets, was the aristocratic high- brow aggregation of Hackensack. Mr. Banta supplied them with free pipes imported from Scotland, each bowl bearing a Masonic emblem — Scottish Rite — but the members had to furnish their own tobacco. Here these brethera of the mystic level assembled during leisure hours, espe- cially o' winter nights, and discoursed of the beauties of life as set forth in the rare volume compiled by Hiram Abiff, wherein the master writ so glowingly and beautifully of brothei'ly love, and of loyalty as exemplified in the narrative of the widow's son. It is said that a copy cf this ancient volume is still extant in Hackensack carefully presex'ved by the master of Pioneer Lodge. Fishing was frequently the leading topic of the Setters, for there was a time — well, say, not more than twenty-five years ago — when the now polluted Hackensack river was rich fishing ground (sounds like slab-sided English to call a river "ground," doesn't it?) where white perch, striped bass, catfish, eels, an occasional shad, smelt, and at rare intervals a sturgeon, gladdened the hearts of net and line fishermen. Men, women, boys and girls in flat-bottom boats dotted the river from Kipp's Bend south to Muddy Buff. Jake Terhune was one of the most noted of those who spent the greater part of their time on the water during the open season. He was a typical "Lone Fisherman" in that he rarely had company. It was said that Jake communed with the fish; knew their secret haunts and feeding- grounds. He courted remote in- lets and creeks which had no attraction for the common crowd; and when amateurs rowed home laboriously in the evening shadows with empty boat and lunch basket, the yellow sail of Jake Terhune's skiff was seen afar, the breeze v/afting him northward, the water musically lapping the sides of his v/ell-loaded craft. Jake was tall and lank, bronze-featured and grizzle-whiskered, never without his pipe and bait- container (the pipe the solace, the bait the sustenance of a fisherman). John Hen Wygant v/as the friend of women and children; he let boats, furnished tackle and sold fish-bait (as distinguished from "bait"), and frequently acted as guide — glib, garrulous and saturated with river lore, there were few dull moments for those in John Hen's company. Billy Winant and Johnny Bertholf were cronies of the river who held 25 that Muddy Buff was the ideal spot for perch at certain seasons when tide, wind and general weather conditions were favorable. Like Jake Terhune and all other water dogs, they haunted quiet, out-of-the-way spots where the finest fish lurked. Cornele Bogert, who lived on River Road, Bogota, was another of the old fishermen; and of more recent data the late Sheriff Jake Van Buskirk won repute as a wizard with the drop-line — his fishing habitat was Berry's Creek, whence he took many large perch. On the river, just below Bogota, was "Benny's Mill," or a few timbers showing from the water where the mill once stood; this was considered one of the best spots near by and was favored by those who had little desire to row far afield — for rowing is rarely a pleasure for the tender of hand and spine. Then there was Overpeck Creek, an inviting water when the tide was right, and giving up an occasional striped bass of generous size. But fishing is no longer a pleasure, for there are few fish that have withstood the pollution of the stream by sewage and poisonous vileness from manufacturing plants. The one finny survivor was that hog fish, German carp, which was formerly taken in great quantities; but even it is dying out, as Charley Fleischman will testify. The crab, hard and soft, at one time taken by thousands every season, has left the Hack- ensack for more inviting waters; and crabbing parties, composed large- ly of vvTcmen and children who had rollicking fun in taking the sweet- meated shell-fish, are now a memory. Charley Fleischman, the leading net fisherman, tells of drawing in 117 shad and 26,000 herring; the shad wer.e sold for ?6 a hundred and the herring were taken by farmers for fertilizer, thus serving to fatten crows by attracting them to the feast of fish and corn. Charley says: "I've deserted the nets and gone to work." Bellman's Creek, Garret's Reach^ Muddy Buff, Benny's Mill, Jim Pickens's "bait" house at Little Ferry, are now memories about which old men dream dreams In reeling in the last fishline let it be a compliment to woman, and no less a personage than "Granny" Dawson, loyal helpmeet of "Old Sam" of pleasant memory. "Granny" Dawson never went a-fishing in boats; she cast her line over the rail of Court Street Bridge, and on one occasion astonished the population of Hackensack by catching a shad on the hook. The oldest fishermen on the river from the^Sand Point at Wells's to Paterson plankroad bridge, had never heard of so remark- able a thing as a shad taking bait and being hooked. After that day. whenever men spun fish yarns, they were silenced with the inquiry: "But did you hear of Granny Dawson ketchin' a shad on a hook?" The fishermen named herewith were unconscious disciples of good Mr. Isaak Walton of placid memory, who has taught the discerning that fishing is an art to be learned by pi'actice. "For angling," he tells us, 26 "may be said to be so like the mathematics that it can never be fully learnt; at least net so fully, but that there will still be more new ex- periments left for the trial of other men that succeed us." The hack service of Hackensack was ever a subject for comment in family circle, sewing society and social gathering. Those who recall the inaugurator of this means of local transportation must have a lively recollection of Sam Dixon, a colored Jehu whose vehicle was a direct descendant of the Wonderful One Horse Shay, and collapsed on a certain occasion when it was bearing the Rev. Dr. HoUey to perform a wedding ceremony. Robert Johnson heired the business when Dixon went out, and met with a sad misfortune when his horse, turned out to pasture near Areola, was stung to death by bees. Wm. Savage, Ed. Lovett, John Smith, George Grasty were in the horse-hack service, the last of the line being Wm. Brower. The fare was originally ten cents for a ride to any part of the town. For several years Andrew Christie ran a stage from Anderson Hall to Essex street for railroad commuters. Things are speeding up, with more than a dozen auto hacks and fare regulated by ordinance. Of the more widely known characters of Hackensack, Michael M. Wygant is accorded precedence. Native and to the manor born, his name was one of the household words of Bergen county. He was noted as a horseman and follower of the hounds, joining "Old Joe" Donohue and Perry Belmont in this cross-country sport. "Mikey" Wygant was constable, court crier, auctioneer, and village oracle for more than half a century, being gathered to the fathers in the ripeness of time and ful- ness of years. William Henry Harrison followed in the footsteps of "Mikey," one of whose daughters he married, as constable, court crier and auctioneer, though never attaining his place of note in the field of sports. But "Bill" Harrison was noted as a fireman in the red-shirt days of the New York Volunteer Department, and brought with him to Hackensack the enthusiasm, wisdom, daring and skill of the b'hoys who "run wid de musheen" and battled for precedence in the halcyon days of old New York. The earliest street sprinkling cart was piloted by John Conklin. He took water from the river by backing his machine down a runway north of Court street bridge before a dock was built there. This pro- cess was possible only when the tide was in. Those citizens, business houses or residences, whose occupants subscribed for sprinkler service looked askance at neighbors whose street frontage remained dry, characterizing them in various terms reflecting upon lack of public spirit. 27 How many remember Tom Frylinck, the first newspaper carrier to establish a route for city papers? His route included Teaneck road as far as the old school house, across to New Bridge, and south to Colliconeck. He was succeeded by his sons Tony and Fred, the last- named still living in Hackensack. Tom Frylinck's route covered about fifteen miles. He who goes reminscencing must run against a stonewall or com- mit hari-kari if he would come to a conclusion, when the field of foray seems inexhaustible. Therefore, a newspaper worker of the old days is utilized as a suitable period to this ramble. His name is Ackerman Hawkey. Originally employed on the New Jersey Citizen and The Re- publican, he was with The Bergen County Democrat for many years, and later on the staff of The Bergen Daily News. Mr. Hawkey is not as old in years as this statement might imply; but he is a storehouse of local historical lore, and is especially versed in that mysterious legal output called election laws. GOOD-BYE, GENTLE READERS. You of the old days who are familiar with the incidents here corraled in print are asked to treat the inditer with that lenience to which unwitting lapse is entitled. Those who find in what is here set down something new to their ken will have to accept the babblings as they appear to the eye, with or without mental, reservation. A writer has said: "There is always something absurd about the past." Another has declared that all history is lies. And yet, the past and its history has a great fascination for many of our fellow men and sister women. There is at least a modicum of accuracy in these glimpses of old days which serve to give opportunity for comparison with the present. One who visualizes the village of Hackensack of fifty years ago, and compares it with the budding City of Hackensack of today, has a picture of the Old and the New that gives opportunity for profitable study and peradventure for pleasing reflection. Each period has its at- tractions. Thrice blessed is the mortal who can emerge from the past with its memories and enjoy the present with its new life unfolding from day to day. 28 L'ENVOIE. I invite you, fair reader, to cheer up, and in the rhyme of Mabel W. Phillips- Come Go With Me A-Gipsying. Come go with me a-gipsying Upon the greenwood trail; We'll join the caravan that winds Down to the distant sail; Our tent shall be a rose thicket, When night her blanket spreads; We'll rest upon earth's warm bosom With stars above our heads. The threnody of wild bird notes Shall wake us at the dawn; When we shall speed as fleet away As some shy woodland fawn; I'll bind your brow with daisies gold Beside some silvery stream; While you shall from their petals read The answer to my dream. Nor roofs nor walls shall hold us in, Far mountains, vales and sea We'll travel o'er if you'll consent To take the trail with me; No boundaries shall encompass. Wide, wide are our domains: We'll hark the bells at eventide Sound softly o'er the plains. And we'll turn back, no, never more; But fare on merrily: Sunsets and dawns shall find us far Upon the sim-lit sea; Islands and coral reefs we'll claim Fief held out for a day. Hail to the outbound caravan. Come, gipsy maid, away. 29 BENEDICTION. May the Hackensack of fifty years hence hold as much joy, peace, good cheer and happiness for those who travel the trail as the present bestows upon one who has ambled down the Bergen county calf paths of a vanished half century into the beautiful amiesite highways of nineteen twenty-two. May each deserving mortal "live in a house by the side of the road and be a friend of man." A voire sante! 31 \ \ 1 i LIBRPIRY OF CONGRESS llilllllli llilill 014 206 368 2 1