17 o^sR coio^. PATENTED. COPYRIGHT 1903. By MARY P. C. HOOPER. TOP WARP HOLDER. Two Copies Rsceivec' [ Ji^AV 2 1903 1 CO PY. S. [ LOOM REST. HEDDLE. SHUTTLE. LAY BOTTOM WARP HOLDER. CL CT SIDE WIRES. RUBBER BANDS. =3 €= ;'" / INSTRUCTIONS. Please read the instructions and examine in connection with illustra- tion on page two, the different parts of the loom before attempting to put them together, and learn the name of each part of the loom as illustrated. It will be seen there are eight perforations on either side of the main board; there will also be found four wooden pins in the box. These wooden pins are intended to hold the warp holders apart, and the per- forations determine the size of the piece to be woven. TO MAKE THE LOOM. Place the wooden pins in the perforations of main board as shown on page one, push the ends of main board through the warp holders with the teeth of the warp holders turning backward from each other. (The teeth turning backward keep the warp strings from coming off, which might be the case if the warp holders stood erect.) Bring the warp holders close against the pins, place the loom rest in the groove on the underside of the top warp holder as shown in Fig. 4. (This groove makes it the top warp holder) and the main board with the warp holders attached thereto becomes an incline. Now place the heddle at the lower end of the incline and the loom is made. THE LAY. The use of the lay is a very important feature in weaving. No weaving can be well done without it. It should be used to pack every woof string. It not only packs the woof string as desired, but keeps the warp strings apart and at a proper distance from each other. This must be done. NEVER DRAW THE WOOF TIGHT. Particular attention should be paid to the way in which the woof string is drawn through the shed. It should be left as shown in figure one ; never drawn straight across the warp, but packed straight with the lay. More lax woof should be left from woqI than cotton or silk, as wool is more elastic. If attention is paid to this any drawing in at the center of the piece woven will be avoided. DRAW THE WARP STRINGS TIGHT. The warp string should always be drawn tightly around the warp holders, cotton and silk as tightly as possible, wool tight enough to weave smoothly. Good weaving greatly depends on the way in which the warp is put on the warp holders. WARP. — The Strings which are extended i.engthwise oe the loom and are crossed by THE WOOF. WOOF.— The String that crosses the warp in weav- ING. Fig. I. TO BEGIN WORK. Place the warp in one of the slots on the end of the main board, back of the top warp holder, then pass the warp in straight lines back and forth from one warp holder to the other, and if the heddle is placed so that the flat side of the handle is up the warp will rest in the grooves of the heddle, thus forming a shed or opening of the warp for the passage of the shuttle or woof carrier. When this is done put the loop end of t ach wire over one of the teeth of the bottom warp holder, and the other ends of the wires between corresponding teeth of the top warp holder. One rubber band is placed over the wires on the teeth of the bottom warp holder but the other ends of the wires must be securely fastened against the teeth of the top warp holder in a straight line from the bottom warp holder. This can be done by wrapping the rubber band around the end of the wire and the tooth of the top warp holder binding the wire and the tooth together, then draw the other end of the band across the warp holder and fasten the end of the other wire in the same way. These wires lie in the grooves of the heddle and act as a warp string on either side of the loom. TO WEAVE. Put the woof string in the >^^V.ii|%..4 -ilit%^ shuttle, pass the shuttle through i the .shed, and by turning the heddle, always keeping the flat side of handle tip, another i shed is formed, and so on, thus the weaving is done. TO REMOVE THE WORK. Take the lower pins out, allow- ing the warp holder to move j \^ up a little. Remove the rubber bands, then draw the wires out, and the fabric is easily removed from the warp holders. Fig. 3. Fig. 2. TO WEAVE A TOWEL. As SHOWN IN Fig. i. Make a knot in one end of the^warp string and place that end in a slot back of the top warp holder, bring the string through the teeth in front of the slot and across the heddle to the bottom warp holder and back again to the upper warp holder and so on in straight lines around ten teeth, as shown in figure one. Fasten the other end of the warp string back of the tenth tooth and around one or two of the slots to keep it secure, and cut it off. Take up every bit of the slack string, holding one string after another until there is no slack left in the warp. Hold the slack string and again fasten firmly. Measure six yards of woof string. Tie one end around the wire and fir^t warp string on the left hand side of the loom, one inch and a half belo,w the teeth of the top warp holder. * Fold the woof string three times in one yard and a half lengths. Put the doubled end through the shuttle as shown in figure one. It will be seen there is one yard and a half .left single and that single end is attached to the loom. Now pass the shuttle with the doubled woof through the shed and weave till the single end is used up. Then take another length from the shtittle and so on until within an inch and a half of the bottom warp holder. Place the shuttle under the warp strings, and over the heddle as shown in Fig. 13, thus raising the warp strings from the grooves of the heddle, draw the heddle out without touching the warp strings. This leaves a fringe at both ends of the towel to be cut and tied as shown in figure 2, or finished with a button hole stitch made by the shuttle being passed through the warp strings with a short piece of the woof, as shown in Fig. 3, the ends of which fall in with the fringe. Lay the towel on the table, comb the fringe with the lay and cut it even. The warp of Fig. 2 is the same as Fig. 3 but the woof string is doubled. Fig. 4. Fig. 4 shows a square of plaid with fringe. The fringe on two sides has been tied while weaving and the wires have been taken out. The fringe at the ends is shown partly tied. Fig. 5 shows the same piece after it is finished and taken from the loom, before the fringe -is combed and cut. Fig. 6 is made by alternating every two warp and woof strings, for instance, take two pink and alternate with two green. Cut the woof strings and alternate the same way. Fig. 5. f o Fig. 6. ^ ^^^ %\ T * i H I I I I I f t 1 ''♦«»'' I • ' Fij 7- TO MAKE RAG CARPET AS SHOWN IN FIQ. 7. Put the warp on the loom in the usual way. Cut rags in strips and sew them together. These rags are used as woof. . lni» Fig. 8. To weave elastic ribbon as shown in Fig. 8, use elastic bands as warp. Each band forms two warp strings. Any thread can be used as woof. Weave close to the heddle. If packed well with the lay it can then be taken off and will be found that both ends are finished. Use the side wires as in any other weaving. The woof of Fig. 8 is of knitting cotton. Fig. 9. TO MAKE A HAMMOCK. No. 9. Warp of unbleached carpet warp. Woof of green and white carpet warp. Put the warp on same as the towel but continue the warp strings across the loom. Fasten the same as towel. Cut the woof strings long enough to make fringe at the sides of the hammock. Weave four green woof strings. Pack well with the lay. Tie every two strings as woven. Put four green strings into the shuttle and draw them through the shed together. Be sure to lay them flat. Now proceed to weave four green strings as the first four were done. It will be seen that this forms the stripe. Weave the white stripe the same way. Do not cut the warp strings when taken off the loom. These loops are used for the ends of the hammock as shown in Fig. 9. Boys' Reins. TO WEAVE LONGER THAN THE LOOM. Cut the warp as long again as the length of the piece to be woven Put each length of warp around a tooth of the top warp holder, bring the two ends over the heddle and through the teeth of the bottom warp holder and fasten the two lengths of warp in a slot back of the bottom warp holder. When the weaving has been done as far as the heddle, take the fabric off and place it back of the top warp holder as shown in Fig. 29, now bring the warp through the teeth of the bottom warp holder and again fasten the warp in the slots back of the bottom warp holder as shown in Fig. 29. In this way any length can be woven. TO MAKE AN IRON HOLDER. As SHOWN IN Fig. io. The warp is of knitting cotton No. 4. The woof is of candle wicking. The loop is made from the end of the warp. The iron holder is dotible. Wash and dish cloths can be made by weav- ing- and sewing the pieces together. ^ Fig. 10. Fig-. II. Fig. 12. TO MAKE JAPANESE MATTING. As SHOWN IN Fig. 12. Warp of knitting cotton. Woof of raffia. RAFFIA MAT. As SHOWN IN Fig. II. Put the end of the raffia firmly in the slots back of the warp holders. Fasten well at both ends. Select a long piece of raffia to use as woof string. When necessary to join, lay one piece of woof next to the other and pack well with the lay. The ends of the raffia in the slots are left for fringe. TO PREPARE RAFFIA FOR WEAVING. Soak the raffia well in warm water and wrap in a dry cloth for a few minutes. Pretty bags and many other things can be woven from raffia. Fig- 13- TO MAKE A FIRM AND PERFECT EDGE. Let the first warp string be longer than the piece to be woven. If the woof has not been packed close enough to fill the space left by the teeth of the warp holders when the fabric is taken off the loom, the end of the first warp string which is longer than the piece woven can be used as woof, and a perfect edge made by the use of a darning needle. BABIES' SHOES. 13. Eight Ply Qermantown Yarn as shown in Fig. Fasten the yarn in the slots on the left side of the loom back of the top warp holder twelve inches from the end of the yarn, then around eight teeth of the warp holders, fasten the yarn in a slot back of the ninth tooth of the top warp holder on the right side of the loom to keep the warp from slipping. Place the loop end of the side wires over the teeth of the bottom warp holder as shown in Fig. 13, put one rubber band on the bottom warp holder, now bring the yarn around the ninth Fig. 14. Fig. 16. Fig- 15- tooth and down over the rubber band and fasten again in a slot back of the bottom warp-holder, then fasten the loose ends of the wires against the teeth of the top warp holder with the other rubber band. Measure six yards of yarn and fold three times in yard and a half lengths; put the doubled end in the shuttle. Take the yarn out of the slot and weave once across without passing over the right side wire as shown in Fig. 13, now weave under and over both wires until the distance from the bottom warp holder equals the width of the shoe from the left side wire to the last warp string on the right. Weave as shown in Fig. 13 close to the heddle, then place the shuttle under the warp and over the heddle as shown in Fig. 13, and remove the heddle, weave without the heddle close to the warp holder. Take the shoe off the loom and finish as shown in Fig. 14. Sew together as shown in Fig, 15. Sew the upper to the sole as shown in Fig. 16. The first and last six warp strings should be packed close together so as to fill the space left by the teeth of the warp holders when the shoe is taken off the loom. Fig. 17. Sofa Pillow of Mercerized Floss and Ribbon. \ Sofa Pillow of Fig Knitt 18. ng Silk and Ribbon. •,*'*• ;» /# .1 Fig. 19. Smyrna Rug. Fig. 20. Rug woven with two shuttles. ^m^V'^'W^ Fig. 21. Afghan, showing two sides. No. 22. Afghan. »«^ ^ MM „. mm:::::::: U::::iii;:J ja 14; J^P|||||-j|^.|}|f }U|-|^1^^ Fig. 23. On the Ivoom. ^- Hk m ii r »"inr»-*-i, * ♦ -r* > I M » M •« M W 1 «» MMMM