FOR THE INTERNATIONAL GEOLOGICAL CONGRESS OUTLINE OF THE EVOLUTION OF THE FALLS OF NIAGARA Contrast uith the Falls of the Zamhesi By J. W. SPENCER, A. M., Ph.D., LL.D. (Author of "The Falls of Niagara; Their Evolution," Etc. ) Special Commissioner of the Geological Survey of Canada, undoi the Directorates of Doctors R. Bell and A. P. Low, for the Scientific Investigation of the Falls of Niagara w Washington, D. C:. Press of Judd &: Detweiler, Iiu . 1913. U.S.A. 2 ^ 3 I 3 V/. SPE^'CE^ ©CU-^^ 04'-^^^ ^/(.Z ^ For the International Geological Congress OUTLINE OF THE EVOLUTION OF THE FALLS OF NIAGARA: CONTRAST WITH THE FALLS OF ZAMBESI By J. W. Spencer, A. M., Ph. D., LL. D. (Author of "The Falls of Niagara; Their Evolution." etc.*) The magnitude of Niagara Falls has popularly made them "Amer- ica's unique and greatest natural feature." Their evolution is more wonderful. In geological chronology they are most important. Their development doubtless may seem complex to and bewilder the superficial observer, but the student can see that the changing history is due to two or three primary causes. The ordinary waterfall only requires a stream to descend somewhat abruptly from a higher to a lower country, having begun its descent at a not distant date in the past. The character of the rooks determines whether the form is a cataract or a series of rapids. Its age should be found by dividing the length of the gorge by the rate of recession of the fall, if such can be determined. These factors are known at Niagara, where, however, the results have been modified by great variations in the volume of water and in the height of the fall. The variation of the volume of Niagara Eiver has been due to earth- movements affecting the whole lake region, whereby the discharge of the river was increased. The Falls have also varied in height in both directions. The increasing height was caused by the lowering of the waters of the Ontario basin, due to the withdrawal of the ice-sheet, and the subsequent reduction in height was due to the raising of the lake level, owing to the recent tilting of the region. The complexity lies in the student being compelled to take into consideration many measured phys- ical data which are not generally presented to the geologist. The student of physical geography must refer to the author's full works, where the original discoveries of the great changes occurring in Niagara Eiver have been described. Some of the features briefiv men- *"The Falls of Niagara; Their Evolution aud varyiug Relations to tlie Great Lakes ; Characteristics of the Power and the Effects of its Diversion." By Joseph William Winthrop Spencer, pp. xxxi -f 490, with many maps and illustrations, 1907, Geological Survey of Canada. tioned will make the casual visitor better understand the exceptional cliaracter of the Falls of Niagara. The crest-line of the double cataract (including (Joat Island) was a mile long before it was shortened by 415 feet (1901-1903) at the Cana- dian end, due to the installation of power plants, leaving the "Canadian Falls," or greater cataract, 2,500 feet broad, and the smaller one — "American Falls" — 1,000 feet wide. The height of the main Falls is 160 feet, but this begins at the foot of the upper rapids, which descend 55 feet. These rapids, however, have not been made by the river pi-oj)er, but are primarily due to the water flowing down the side of a ])resjlacial valley which trended to the southwest and joined the "Erigan River," or ancient outlet of the Erie Valley, situated 12 to 1-1 miles west of the Falls. The grandeur of the Upper Kapids, as seen from the Canadian Park before the construction of the power-houses, was not inferior to that of the Falls themselves. The mean volume of the water descending the main falls was 194,000 cubic feet per second, with 10,000 cubic feet additional flowing over the American Falls. Thus 95 per cent of all the water passes over the Canadian Falls. Only a few centuries have elapsed since the two cataracts were nnitcil below Goat Island, and only a few more will be required before the main falls will have receded above the island, thus causing the diversion of the water from the smaller cataract. The water in the cauldron below the great falls has a depth of 72 feet to the loose blocks of limestone, which have fallen, owing to the removal of the soft underlying shales, etcetera. The depth of the water is here about 100 feet; but a quarter of a mile below the apex the deeper inner channel reaches to 192 feet, or to 94 feet below the level of Lake Ontario. For a distance of two miles below there is a navigable stretch of river having approximately the same depth. This is in the wide portion of the gorge, wliich iu some places exceeds its mean breadth of 1,200 to 1,300 feet. Immediately beyond, the gorge becomes narrow, shrinking to 700 feet in width. Here the waters dash over the great blocks qf limestone which give rise to the Whirlpool Rapids, with a descent of 52 feet, and reach the celebrated Whirlpool. Its measured depth is 126 feet; but as the points sounded were not quite in the middle of the outlet, this may be increased to 140 feet, or 94 feet below the level of Lake Ontario, which is the depth of the river above the rapids (see mapV The Whirlpool is situated at the head of a deep preglacial valley formed by an ancient small stream flowing northwestward (as di.«y Molyneux (there being a smaller one far up the river), yet Mr. Lamplugh offers us a new name — "The Batoka Gorge" — as if remiming constitutes the discovery, the more so as he thus entitles his paper. With such a beginning, one needs not be surprised at hyixjtheses in place of research. He discredits the Tertiary age of the basalts (Mennell and Molyneux). He says that the evidence of their being Mesozolc. as supposed by Passarge. is on a "highly speculative basis," but himself gives no evidence of their age. Yet in his summary Lam- plugh says that they are "probably Mesozoic." Again, in describing the super- ficial sands. Lamplugh adds : "The hypothesis that they are wind-blown under conditions different from those which now prevail agrees best with the gen- eral characteristics," without telling us how the wind acted differently. Such other .speculations resulted from his very brief visit to the Zambesi. \Mnle his map indicates a jointed structure of the rocks, it gives no idea whatever of the manner of development of the Victoria Falls alternately from one side of the chasm to the other in place of at the end of the gorge, which is its most wonderful feature. (Brit. Assoc. Ad. Sc. Rept. for 1905, pp. 292-.304; Quar. Jour. Geol. Soc. Loudon, vol. Ixiii, pp. 162-216 ; Geog. Jour. London, vol. xxxi, pp. 133-152, 287-303, 1908.) river before it descends into the chasm. In course of time these sub- merged channels become so deep as to take the whole volume of water and thus withdraw it from the recent long crest -line. Xow the stream runs around the newly formed spur, with the water cascading in the new chasm, but down the opposite side from that of the previous one. This alternating process is repeated, thus giving the Falls of the Zambesi their unique character. It would be difficult to conjecture the rate of recession, although obviously faster than if the erosion were at the head of the gorge, as in the case of other cataracts. The rainfall in this African country occurs mostly in February and almost entirely within five months, so that the volume of the Zambesi is sometimes very large and at others very small. While the measured mean discharge of the river could not be obtained from the Chartered Company wliich has obtained control of the power, it is ai)parently much less than at Niagara. Under all of these conditions, the Victoria Falls may be considered a grand rival of Niagara and also unique, but not as eclipsing our famous American cataract or giving any measurements of geological time. , WlUH'U'i- (f. s. Note.- In the in vestigial ;ion of till' |,li, vsi.al i-rol.le nis of fnndanientiil resfiii •clios