M<^ /IP Book y^^ lA. ^-a^6,^'"•'-^"v^'• ^lace^ of^nUvei^t ^anta i^, |lettr ^^xico iWrtij 5th, 1903. ^Urtces 0f interest ^ania g^, ll^nr ple^eao play 5th, 1908, JAN 25 1904 D.ofD, 4^-^/// The Villa Real de Santa Fe de San Francisco de Assisie to give its full Spanish name, is the historic city of Santa Fe, seat of the government of the territory of New Mexico as well as the coun- ty seat and the see of an archbishop of the Roman Catholic church, enjoys the distinction of being the oldest town and the oldest capital of the American continant. Its permanent settlement by Europeans antedates the founding of Jamestown and also the landing of the Pilgrim Fathers at Ply- mouth more than 20 years. The thrilling and ro- mantic incidents composing its story, the protract- ed and bloody struggles with hordes of savage Indians, the capture and pillage by hostile Pue- blos in 1680, the general massacre of missionaries and explorers and flight of the governor and a few followers in the night to El Paso, the reserving of some of the handsomest Spanish maidens for wives of favored warriors, the desecration and destruction of the Christij^n churches and the re- storation of the worship of snakes and stone idols, the reconquest by Diego de Vargas 12 years later, the terrible punishment visited upon the re- bellious Pueblos, the change from Spanish rule to the rule of the triumphant republic of Mexico, the capture by the United States forces under General Kearney and the building of old Fort Marcy in 1846, the stirring scenes accompanying the distri- bution of the immense traffic of the Santa Fe trail, the wild deeds of desperadoes and the fabulous hazards at cards in the days before the advent of the railroad, afford the material for an epic poem of deep interest. To enumerate all the places of interest here would require too much space for the purpose of 3 this brief sketch, but a few of the most important are: The territorial library, containing- many an- cient Spanish and Mexican documents from 1605 to 1846. San Miguel church, built in 1540, partially des- troyed in the revolution of 1680, reoccupied in 1692, and completely restored in 1710, and partly rebuilt a few years ago. This is the oldest church in the United States and contains many relics of the early days. Thecapitol, the penitentiary, the United States Indiaa school, St. Katherine Indian school, the National cemetery, the Roman Catholic institu- tions, including a hospital, sanitarium, convent, Loretto chapel, academy, and St. Michael's col- lege, the federal building, the deaf and dumb asy- lum, the Presbyterian mission school, the mili- tary reservation and the court house: the old house believed to antedate the Spanish occupation; the cathedral of San Francisco, behind which is the chapel of the old parish church, with carved and painted reredos, both curious and interesting, erected by Governor Del Valle and his wife in 1761; the cathedral museum, containing many Spanish paintings and other objects of interest; old Fort Marcy, the commanding situation famous in all the sieges of the city, with ruins of the old fort built by General Kearney in 1846: the garita, on the road to old Fort Marcy, at the west wall of which the leaders of the rebellion of 1837 were ex- ecuted; the plaza in the center of the town, around which cluster many memories of the conquest of the land by the hardy Spaniards and of the stir- ring scenes of the more recent davs. The soldier's monument is located in the center of this park and also a monument commemorating- the taking- possession of the city by General Kearney as well as a memorial fountain to the late Archbishop John B. Laaay; the Perez monument marking the spot where Governor Perez was assassinated; the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe, with its large and interesting altar piece on canvass, containing Governor's Palace, six pictures of the appearance of the Virgin to Juan Dieg-o, and other paintings and wood carv- ings; monument of Kit Carson in front of the Fe- deral building; the Rosario chapel, erected on the spot where De Vargas made his vow before the surrender of the city in 1692; the Masonic hall con- taining- relics and the home of the oldest Masonic lodg-e in the United States west of the Missouri: the Governor's Palace, without doubt, the most interesting- of all the buildings. This is an adobe structure built in 1598 and continuously occupied by the Spanish, Mexican and American governors for three hundred years. The men who lived and conducted the affairs of state in the old pile in- cluded some of the foremost names, not only of the territory, but of the land. To quote from the words of Ex-Governor L. B. Prince, author of a history of New Mexico pub- lished some ten years ag^o. "Without disparaging the importance of any of the cherished historical localities of the east, it may be truthfully said that this ancient palace surpasses in historical interest and value any other place or object in the United States. It ante- dates the settlement of Jamestown by nine years, and that of Plymouth by 22, and has stood during the 299 years since its erection, not as a cold rock or monument, with no claim upon the interest of humanity except the bare fact of its continued ex- istence, but as the living center of everything of historic importance in the southwest. Through all that long period, whether under Spanish, Pueblo, Mexican or American control, it has been the seat of power and authority, whether the ruler was called viceroy, captain-general, political chief, department commander or governor, and whether he presided over a kingdom, a province, a depart- ment, or a territory, that has been his official resi- dence. "From here Onate started in 1599 on his adven- turous expedition to the eastern plains; here, seven years later, eight hundred Indians came from far off Quivirato to ask aid in their war with the Ax- taos; from here, in 1618, Vicente de Salivar set forth to the Moqui country, only to be turned back by rumors of the giants to be encountered; and from here Penalosa and his brilliant troop started on the 6th of March, 1662, on their marvelous ex- pedition to the Missouri; in one of the strong- rooms the commissary general of the inquisition was imprisoned a few years later by the same Pe- nalosa; within its walls, fortified as if for a siege the bravest of the Spaniards were massed in the revolution of 1680; here, on the 19th of August of that year was given the order to execute 48 Pueblo prisoners in the plaza which faces the building; here, but a day later, was the sad war council held which determined [on the evacuation of the city; here was the scene of the triumph of the Pueblo chieftains as they ordered the destruction of the Spanish archives and the church ornaments in one grand conflagration; here, De Vargas, on Septem- ber 14, 1692, after the eleven hour combat of the preceding day, gave thanks to the Virgin Mary^ to whose aid he attributed his triumphant capture of the city; here, more than a century later, on March 3, 1807, Lieut. Pike w^as brought before Gov. Allencaster as an invader of Spanish soil here in 1822, the Mexican standard, with its eagle and cactus, was raised in token that New Mexico was no longer a dependency of Spain: from here on the 6th day of August, 1837, Gov. Perez started to subdue the insurrection in the north, only to re- turn two days later and to meet his death on the 9th, near Agua Fria; here, on the succeeding day, Jose Gonzales, a Pueblo Indian of Taos, was in- stalled as governor of New Mexico, soon after to be executed by order of Armijo: here, in the prin- cipal reception room, on Aug-ust 12, 1846, Capt. Cooke, the American envoy, was received by Gov. Armijo and sent back with a message of detiance: and here, six days later. Gen. Kearney took formal possession of the city and slept, after his long-, weary march, on the carpeted earthen floor of the palace." Coming- down to more modern times, it may be added that Gen. Lew Wallace wrote the greater part of Ben Hur in the old palace, while governor of the territory in 1879 and ISSO. CHURCH OF SAN MIGUEL. This church, so noted for its antiquity, is situ- ated in the oldest part of the city, called by the Spaniards ''Analco," adjoining- the Brothers CoUeg-e. It is about 74 feet in length, by 30 in width, and 35 feet high. The walls are massively built of adobe, and the roof, like those of all the old churches, was constructed of strong vigas, sup- ported by carved timbers at each end, the whole being covered originally with straight branches of poplar or willow, surmounted by a layer of earth. In modern days, boards take the place of the branches. This church dates from the earliest occupation, and has long- been held in special veneration. In the Pueblo revolution of 1680 it was to a great extent destroyed, though the walls remained standing. History records that in December, 1693 almost immediately after the reconquest by De Vargas a number of men were sent to the moun- tains to cut timber for the repair of the church. Such tim.ber could only have been for vigas, which shows the walls were yet in a condition to be roofed. The entire rebuilding was completed in 1710 as appears from the inscription still plainly visible on the great square viga near the door which reads: "El Seiior Marquez de la Penuela hizo esta fa- brica. El Alferes Real Don Agustin Flores Ver- gara su criado aiio de 1710." "The Marquis de la Penuela erected this build- ing. The Royal Ensign Don Agustin Flores Ver- gara his servant. The year 1710." Among other paintings in this church are the one of St. Michael and the Dragon, nnd of the Annunciation. THE "OLD HOUSE." The oldest house in the city, which is reputed to date back beyond the time of the Spanish conquest and thus to be the "Oldest House in the United States," is situated just north of the Church of San Miguel. As the photographs still on sale show, this build- ing until recently was two stories in height, the second story being very low, and the floor between the upper and lower rooms being of adobe. The buildino- was about 60 feet long-, but some years ago the upper story of the easterly portion fell, and quite recently the spirit of destruction which is fast ruining- our most interesting historical land marks, caused the second story of the remainder to be removed. The first story how- ever remains as it has been for centuries, and there seems no reason to doubt that it is the most i The "Old House," ancient building, continuously inhabited, in the entire United States. THE GARITA. On the east side of the main road entering the city from the south, stand the ruins of the Garita, the only Spanish fortifications of which any re- mains now exist in New Mexico. It was built with two bastions and occupies a commanding position on a hill. Under the Mexican government it was used as a custom house station, and all wagons coming from the north were stopped here until the exceedingly high duties of those days were paid. On the west side of the Garita, close to the wall, the four leaders in the revolution of 1837, Deside- rio Montoya, Antonio Abad Montoya, Gen. Cho- pon and 'Alcalde Esquibel, were executed by com- mand of Gen. Armijo in January, 1837. OLD CEMETERY AND CHAPEL. The oldest cemetery in the southwest, except the g"raveyard immediately surrounding the church, The Federal Building. was very near the Garita, and the hig-h adobe wall surrounding- it is still in quite good repair. On one side of it was a small mortuary chapel where funeral services were conducted. Many celebrated historical characters are buried here, but unfortu- nately no monumental stones distinguish their last resting places. CHURCH OF NUESTRA SENORA DE GUADALUPE. This church is situated just south of the river, at the western edge of the citv, near the Santa Fe R. R. depot. Owing to the mcdern appearance of a shingle roof and wooden steeple, it often escapes attention, but is really of much historic interest. The walls are very massive, and the carved sup- ports of the vigas are the best specimens of their class in the Territory. Prior to 1883 the church was only opened once a year, on December 12; but it was then renovated, many windows cut in its solid walls: and has since been used by the English speaking Roman Catholics for regular services. The altar piece is a large group of pictures, about 14 feet high by 10 wide. The large central painting is of the Virgin of Guadalupe, copied from the celebrated "imagen" in Mexico, and it is surrounded by four scenes in the well known legend, representing the appearances of the Vir- gin to Juan Diego, and the visits of the latter to the Bishop: the whole surmounted by a represen- tation of the Trinity. The church and sacristy contain many inter- esting paintings, the most curious and valuable being- one painted on a plate of copper, 28 by 18 inches in size, by Sebastian Salcedo in 1779. This also represents the Virg-in of Guadalupe, a small portrait of Pope Benedict XIV being- intro- duced. The statuette of the Virg-in standing- in the crescent of the new moon, is a beautiful specimen of antique wood carving-. OLD FORT MARCY is situated on a hig-h hill northeast of the Palace Hotel, and the view from the summit Is universally admired. Historically it is a place of g-reat interest. As a moment's observation will show its commanding- military position, and that the army in posses- sion of the hill controlled the city. In the old wars this was the scene of many a warlike encampment, and when, in 1680, the Pueblo revolted ag-ainst the Spanish rule, the hill was occupied by the Indian forces under Pope, on August 11, and the city be- sieg-ed for 9 days, when the Spaniards were forced to evacuate and retreat to El Paso. On the 16th, of December, 1693, De Varg-as re- entered Sania Fe, and encamped on this spot and remained until the day after Christinas, when tliey drove the Taiios Indians from ihe town, and re- occupied its houses. When Gen Kearney came in 1846, one of the first matters undertaken after the occupation of Santa Fe, on August 18, was the erection of a fortress to command the city. This site was naturally chosen, and Lieut., Gilmer and W. MacLean of the Missouri Volunteers were appointed to super- intend the construction. It was built by details of Volunteers who complained g-rievously of hav- 13 ing- to do this laborious work, when they had sim- ply entered the army to fig'ht. In shape the fori was an irregular tridecagon, large enough to contain a thousand troops and mount many cannon. It was named in honor of Hon. W. L. Marcy, then Secretary of War: and the remains of its massive adobe ;valls are still of con- siderable heig-ht. Behind the fort was a block- The Capitol. house, the ruins of which are distinctly to be seen. The height of the fort above the Plaza, is 291 feet. THE PLACE OF THE ASSASSINA- TION OF GOV. PEREZ. This is about 2 miles southwest of the Plaza on the Agua Fria road. It is now very appropriate- ly marked by a neat stone monument erected by the Daughters of the American Revolution in 1901. It was here that the Governor, in the Revolution of 1837, while retreating- from the Capital, was killed by an arrow fired by a Pueblo Indian from Santo Domingo. His assailants then forced San- tiago Prada, by threats of death, to cut off his head, which was carried to the insur-gent encamp- ment near the Rosario Chapel and treated with great indignity. AZTEC SPRING. Ihis Spring, which from the earliest Spanish occupation, was renowned among the Pueblo In- It 4lj '^*" * #^** €1 ' . !i "-^^Si&i ,„c.:,iag;' m^ St. Vincent's Hospital. dians for its valuable curative properties, was filled up and hidden in the Pueblo Revolution of 1680, and thenceforward only known by tradition, until it was re-discovered by Captain John x\yers, April 17, 1885. It was always known among the Indians as the •'Ojo del Gigante, (The Spring of the Giant) and is beautifully situated in the western slope of the mountains about 24 miles easterly from Santa Fe. The view from the Spring is magnificent. lu addition to the above there are located in Santa Fe, the handsome new Capitol Building", the Penitentiary, and the Territorial Deaf and Dumb Asylum— all modern building's and fully equipped with the latest improvements and acces- sories for carrying on the work for which they were erected. The U. S. Government conducts here a very large and flourishing- Indian school for both sexes. It also has the Federal Building-, oc- cupied by the surveyor general, collector of inter- nal revenue, the court of private land claims, and the register and receiver of the L. O. It also has on the west side of the city a beau iful National Cemetery in which are interred the remains of more than fifteen hundred soldiers of the Nation. The San Miguel college conducted by the Christian Brothers was founded in 1850. The Academy of Our Lady of Light in charge of the Sisters of Lorreto was established in 1852. The beautiful stone Chapel connected with it, is a fine specimen of pure Gothic architect. The Sisters of Charity have large and commo- dius buildings in which they conduct a scho(»l for orphan girls, a Territorial Hospital, and a Sani- tarium. The Presbyterian Mission school for girls, is a very large and commodious building used exclu- sively for the education of native -children. St. Katharine's Indian school near the National Cemetery, was founded and endowed by Miss Ka- tharine Drexel, of Philadelphia, and is conducted by Catholic Sisterhood, of which she is the founder. The Cathedral of San Francisco de Assissi, is a modern building not yet completed in accordance with its design, but has bean used for worship dur- ing the past twenty years. It was built over the former adobe Parish church, under the auspices of the venerated Bishop Lamy. There are many fine paintings and beautiful stained glass windows in the structure: behind the altar is a richly carved and painted reredos, erected by Gov. del Valle and his wife in 1761. Also behind the altar The Plaza. of this Cathedral are preserved many fine old paintings and rich vestmsnts. There are buried the remains of two Franciscan Friars, who were murdered by Indians as attested by the inscription upon a beam set into the massive wall. The Historical rooms in the Old Palace are filled with rare and curious objects pertaining to the earlier history of the Territory and the Spanish invasion. The Plaza is full of historic interest. Here Oiiate camped and set up the banner of Spain, and here General Kearney first floated the Stare and Stripes in 1846, when he proclaimed American Government in New Mexico, a spot marked with an appropriate stone by the Daujjhters of the American Revolution. In this Plaza the Indians burned the archives and sa,cred vessels of the Church during- the revolution of 1680: and here De Vargas entered in triumph twelve years later. The Territory has erected a handsome monument in the center of the Plaza in memory of the soldiers who fell on New Mexico soil in the various Indian wars, and the war of the Rebellion, and the Woman's Board of Trade has there placed a handsome bronze drinking- fountain ip_rriemory of Archbishop Lamy who was beloved by ' all. The Womans Board of Trade has been in charge of the Plaza for the past five years, by direction of the City Government, and to this org-anization of energetic ladies is due the present beauty of the place. From the strenuous life and turbulent times of the past the City of the Holy Faith has become as quiet and peaceful as a New England village, looking back with pride upon the part it has played in history and forward hopefully for its future. ■•#IMS;^ ^v. :i:^^^- ::^\ Old San Miguel Church, Erected In 1540. n-ll\ I \jf- '-UNOKtSS 017 063 270 9