Class. 
 
 Book ■VV 4 7% 
 
Qui DC Book 
 
 or THE 
 
 WATKIN5 aim 
 
 Near \\\c Village of WatKlns 
 Head of Seneca Lake, Scfiuyjer Co., N. Y. 
 
 AND ITS 
 
 Romantic Surroundings 
 
 COPYRIGHT BY 
 
 W. C. ROBINSON 
 
 1901 
 
Cbe Storp or m 6len 
 
 Centuries before the first white 
 man peered tremblingly into the 
 shadowy abyss of the great Glen, it 
 was known and held as sacred by the 
 aboriginal lake dwellers in this sylvan 
 region. It was the abode of the Great 
 Spirit, whose voice thundered in the 
 awful turmoil of the waters as the 
 freshets of the melting snows tore 
 through the chasm and the rounded 
 boulders were to be heard churning 
 in the deep wells which imprisoned 
 them. As old as time itself, the Glen 
 has been cut— a foot or so in a century 
 — by the spring torrent and the sum 
 mer rivulet, and upon its lofty g 
 buttresses the student of Nature : 
 read clearly the records of myriad ages whose early pages were 
 scribed here when the world was young and " the stars sang togethv 
 To see Watkins Glen is to quicken the dormant reverence for Nature : 
 to stand in these roofless cathedrals is to worship before the altar of 
 the great First Cause. It is well worth while to turn aside from the 
 rush along the highways of pleasure and refresh the soul in this 
 majestic scene. 
 
 The returning soldiers of General John Sullivan's expedition to 
 the land of the Senecas, sent to avenge the massacre of Wyoming 
 brought back to the settlements marvelous tales of not only these 
 beautiful lakes deep hidden in the ravaged country of the Iroquois, 
 
 Swiss Cottage and Dining Hall 
 
but of this great caiion, which many had seen as they pursued and 
 lost the fleeing savages far into its sanctuary. 
 
 Venturous travelers came over toilsome trails in later days to see 
 for themselves this vaunted wonder. Scholars, familiar with noted 
 scenes in other lands, found here something to stir their jaded pens. 
 Lives were staked and lost in the effort to penetrate its deeper 
 recesses. 
 
 But nearly a century passed after the Indian owners had parted 
 with their native soil, before a systematic effort was made to extend 
 pathways and build stairways through the Glen. Almost imme- 
 diately following this work, in the season of 1863, Watkins Glen took 
 its place among the natural marvels of America, and, although hun- 
 dreds of resorts have since been created and the then unknown won- 
 derlands of the Rockies and the Pacific slope are familiar to every 
 tourist, Watkins Glen has held its popular place as an objective point 
 in the holiday tour. At the beginning of the new century it is still 
 classed with Niagara Falls in the estimation of the people. Twenty- 
 five years ago, a single line of railroad gave access to the pretty 
 village of Watkins. The steamboats upon the lake afforded the only 
 alternative means of reaching the place. Now three great railway 
 systems touch the head of Seneca Lake, an electric line of cars con- 
 nects at Elmira with a fourth, and the boats upon the lake are run 
 with a full appreciation of the increasing requirements of summer 
 travel in this direction. 
 
 The hospitable Glen Mountain House, located by an inspiration 
 where it commands a superb view of both the lake and the Glen, has 
 changed but little, save in improvement and extension to meet later 
 needs, since it was first perched here upon the mountain. 
 
 Under the present management much has been done to ensure the 
 comfort, safety and pleasure of all visitors passing through the glen, 
 while the famous Glen Mountain House, under the same ownership 
 and conducted in connection with the glen, has been equally 
 improved in furnishing, cuisine and many other details. Offering to 
 all tourists, with its free transit to and from trains and boats, and its 
 free admission of guests of one or more days to the Glen and Hope 
 Art Gallery, during their stay, the only desirable stopping place at 
 Watkins. 
 
THE GLEN MOUNTAIN HOUSE. BRIDGE AND SWISS COTTAGE 
 FROM THE GLEN 
 
General Description 
 
 CWENTY-FIVE years ago but little was known of this pictur- 
 esque and interesting Summer resort beyond the confines of 
 the county in which it is located. To-day it is renowned 
 the world over for its wonderful scenery ; and differing in 
 all its characteristics from any other remarkable locality 
 of natural interest, it has as distinct an individuality as the Falls of 
 Niagara or the Mammoth Cave. 
 
 It consists properly of a number of glens or sections rising one 
 above another, forming a series of rocky arcades, galleries and grot- 
 toes, subterranean at times, and again widening out into vast amphi- 
 theatres, presenting a beautiful combination picture of glen, mountain, 
 lake and valley, now famous for containing the "Great Natural 
 Wonder," which is located near the head of Seneca Lake, in the 
 outskirts of the village of Watkins, in Schuyler Co., N. Y. 
 
 It comprises a superficial area of nearly five hundred acres; its 
 general course is east and west; its tortuous length extends over three 
 miles, and its total ascent to the summit of the mountain above is 
 eight hundred feet. 
 
 It forms the channel for a limpid stream which, bubbling out 
 from mountain springs, threads its sinuous way through gorge and 
 dell; now tumbling madly from lofty heights into the depths of a 
 foam-crested whirlpool ; now breaking in shimmering cascades above 
 some pellucid pool shaded by moss grown rocks, then winding like 
 a silver thread through the rank leafage of some narrow vale, it 
 flashes in the sunlight and winds quietly across the level valley, as 
 though tired from its angry and tortuous passage through the Glen, 
 it was now resting, idly reflecting the sunbeams before taking its 
 final submergence in the cool depths of "Seneca Lake," half a mile 
 beyond . 
 
 Watkins Glen is located on the line of the Lehigh Valley, North- 
 ern Central, and the Pennsylvania Division of the New York Central 
 
R. R. ; near the head of Seneca Lake west of and partly within the 
 village of Watkins, in Schuyler County, New York. The main line 
 of the Lehigh Valley Railway passes along the ridge east of the village 
 and tourists for the Glen leave the train at Burdett. The N. C. Rail- 
 way connects at Elmira (20 miles) with the N. Y., L. Erie and West- 
 ern; Lehigh Valley; D. L. and W.; and Elmira, Cortland and North- 
 ern Ry. Co.'s lines; and at Canandaigua with the N. Y. Central and 
 Hudson River Railroad; while the New York Central crossing the Glen 
 at its most westerly terminus, connects with the Erie and D., L. and 
 W. R. R.'s at Corning. From Geneva (40 miles) the Glen is also 
 reached by a line of palatial steamers over Seneca Lake, the scenery 
 on which is equal to anything on the continent. The N. Y. C. and 
 Hud. River R. R. runs elegant Wagner Palace Drawing-room and 
 Sleeping cars through from New York to Lyons, Geneva and Canan- 
 daigua, making direct connections with trains for Watkins and with 
 steamers on Seneca Lake. It will be seen, therefore, that Watkins 
 Glen is accessible from all directions. 
 
 The following detailed description of a tour of the Glen is here- 
 with presented in such a manner that the visitor may find it a material 
 guide in pointing out many things which might escape notice. 
 
 Passing up Franklin Street from the railroad station or steamboat 
 landing, a few minutes' walk brings us to the entrance and, turning 
 from the street, we enter the defile between the guarding hills, and the 
 first object that attracts our attention as we commence our pilgrimage 
 is a vast, rocky 
 
 ENTRANCE AMPHITHEATRE, 
 
 the walls of which rise on either side nearly two hundred feet above 
 our heads. Ahead of us the walls almost meet, and farther passage 
 seems barred, with the exception of a narrow rift in the rocks, as if 
 they had, by some mighty power, been torn asunder. Here stood an 
 old building that served for both saw and grist mill, before the romantic 
 genius of an " Ells " had developed the many attractions hidden 
 beyond. 
 
 Before proceeding, however, we pass beneath and around the 
 base of the overhanging rocks, where we obtain a fine view of one 
 of the wildest scenes of the Glen — called the 
 
 ENTRANCE CASCADE, 
 
which is a narrow thread of water, shooting out from an angle in the 
 rocks eighty feet above, and dashing into a dark, cavernous pool of 
 unknown depth below. At our feet slumbers the Trout Pool, broad, 
 deep, clear and irregular in form, so named from the immense number 
 of the finny tribe which come up from the lake during high water 
 in the spring and early summer. 
 
 We now ascend a strong and secure staircase and find ourselves 
 in what is called 
 
 GLEN ALPHA. 
 
 As we continue, we observe the channel makes a sharp turn to 
 the left, which accounts for the apparent obstruction. At the head 
 of the staircase is a little bridge spanning the chasm, known as 
 
 SENTRY BRIDGE, 
 
 where we pause a few moments to rest, and take a look through the 
 amphitheatre we have just left, and down through the jagged edges of 
 rock to the deep blue basin, broken into circling ripples by the falling 
 column of water, out across the smiling valley to the green hills 
 beyond. 
 
 Here, for the first time, the delightful sensation produced by the 
 invigorating and inspiring atmosphere, as it draws down through the 
 Glen, steals over us. Its shadowy recesses are natural reservoirs of 
 eternal coolness, and even in the severity of dog-days furnish a most 
 grateful retreat from the heat of the outer world. The air is cool, fresh 
 and bracing, laden with sweet odors, the fragrance of many flowers. 
 
 Looking upward from the point where we now stand, what a sight 
 bursts upon us ! Towering and irregular cliffs of dark rock, angular 
 and sullen, rise one above another till they appear to meet in the 
 clouds, and seem to forbid approach ! 
 
 At numerous places in the Glen we pause, and wonder how it is 
 possible to go much farther, as the way appears impassible, and the 
 distance so inaccessible; but as we advance the path always opens, and 
 gives far more interest to the ascent than though we could clearly 
 mark our way before us. 
 
 Crossing Sentry Bridge, we ascend a short flight of steps on the 
 south side, and before us lies a pathway cut in the solid rock, leading 
 along under the overhanging cliffs, a few feet above the stream. We 
 are now fairly in 
 
 STILLWATER GORGE, 
 
\ 
 
 
 ENTRANCE STAIRCASE 
 
where the various hues and tints of the rock, the eccentric combina- 
 tion of curves and angles, seem as if nature had endeavored to see 
 what wildly grotesque and yet beautiful images she could produce. 
 We now catch a glimpse of the second cascade, called 
 
 MINNEHAHA, 
 
 which is beautiful, irregular, and yet full of grace. The water, broken 
 several times in its fall, is dashed into foam and spray which forms a 
 brilliant contrast to the dark, rocky surroundings. 
 
 Following the path we come to a rustic seat, from which a charming 
 view is obtained in bDth directions. Looking up from this point, the 
 view is called 
 
 CAVERN GORGE, 
 
 and forwildness and grandeur is unsurpassed by any in the Glen. 
 
 And here it would be well to advise visitors not to press on too 
 eagerly, but to proceed deliberately, and frequently look back, as in 
 many cases the views we have passed are the finest. 
 
 Looking forward at the narrow gorge we are about entering, we 
 see a staircase above us, and beyond that still another, almost perpen- 
 dicular in its position, and of great height. This portion of the Glen 
 is called 
 
 THE LABYRINTH, 
 
 and the channel of the stream here is very narrow. 
 
 A little farther under the shelving cliffs of rock, and we are at the 
 foot of the Long Staircase referred to, which leads to the top of the 
 north cliff. Here we are in a strangely wild and interesting place. 
 If we pass by a little way, before ascending the Staircase, we find our- 
 selves in a cavern, almost circular in form, dark and damp, called the 
 Grotto, directly behind the sheet of water. No one should fail to visit 
 this weird chamber. Here the 
 
 CAVERN CASCADE 
 
 leaps from the rocks above, down sixty feet, in a single column, not 
 altogether unlike the entrance Cascade, but much grander. The 
 rocky walls of the Grotto reverberate the echoes of the falling water 
 until the sound is fairly deafening, and the light of the "outer world" 
 gleaming through the transparent stream in front of you, gives it the 
 appearance of molten silver. Returning to the staircase, the down- 
 
 lo 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 L.-'^^B 
 
 W 
 
 MIN-NE-HA-HA 
 
ward view from the foot of which is called Whirlwind Gorge, we 
 ascend nearly one hundred feet, and are glad to avail ourselves of the 
 rustic seat at the top. The view had from the head of the staircase, 
 is called 
 
 THE VISTA, 
 
 and the effect is very fine. After emerging from the dark chasm, we 
 see before us silvery cascades, quiet pools and moss- garnished walls, 
 overarched by stately forest trees and thick shrubbery, with a broad 
 light flooding the distance ; and far above through the emerald foliage, 
 like a web of gossamer, is seen the beautiful Iron Bridge spanning 
 the Glen. 
 
 We are forcibly impressed with the beauty of the foliage, which 
 appears all the brighter as we emerge from the dark recesses of the 
 Glen. It is a singular fact, that nowhere upon the American Con- 
 tinent can such a range of vegetation be found within such narrow 
 limits. On the northern slopes in sheltered nooks protected from the 
 winds, and in a great measure from frost and snow, exposed to the 
 warm rays of the sun, the vegetation is almost tropical. Especially 
 among the lower orders, plants are here found that are indigenous to 
 Tennessee and the Carolinas. The fern family is largely represented, 
 and some of the most beautiful specimens are found. Many of the 
 varieties attain a degree of luxuriance that astonishes the student 
 familiar with them. Exposed to the keen north winds, high up on the 
 southern clifts, plants are found that belong far to the north. Stunted 
 firs, mosses and lichens, that are rarely seen south of the Hudson's 
 Bay country, are here represented. After a refreshing rest we again 
 start upon our journey, and bearing gently to the left, by a "new" 
 pathway, strong and elegant stairway broken by platforms, recently 
 erected, along the verge of the gorge, where the wildness of the 
 scenery is truly impressive, we find ourselves standing gazing into 
 what was formerly known as 
 
 "GLEN OBSCURA," 
 
 but which, by the great improvements above referred to, is as accessi- 
 ble as any portion of the Glen. By a short flight of steps from this 
 platform we come upDu the veranda of the building known as the 
 
 "SWISS COTTAGE," 
 
 (only needing the stones upon the roof to make it an exact copy of 
 the "Chalets" found among the mountains, lakes, and glens of 
 
CAVERN "CASCADE 
 
Switzerland) erected upon the site originally occupied by the "Ever- 
 green" before mentioned, and now forming a portion of the Glen 
 Mountain House. It is perched on a sort of natural shelf, loo feet 
 above the level of the stream, and 200 feet above the level of Glen 
 Alpha, overlooking The Vista, and nestling among the trees and 
 shrubbery. When we reflect upon the labor attendant upon getting 
 the timbers and lumber used in the construction of buildings, stair- 
 cases and bridges to the present position — it being impossible to use 
 horses for the purpose — and that thousands of feet of the pathways, 
 and many of the stairs, are cut in the solid rock, and that hundreds of 
 obstructions and threatening masses of stone had to be removed, we 
 see that patience and indefatigable perseverance have surmounted all 
 difficulties. 
 
 From the veranda of the Swiss Cottage is had a fine view of the 
 main building known as the Glen Mountain House, the only hotel 
 connected with the Glen. It is very romantically located, well fur- 
 nished and provided with all the modern comforts and conveniences 
 found in any first-class hotel. All visitors to the Glen are welcomed 
 to inspect its spacious apartments, rest upon its delightfully cool 
 piazzas, or indulge in any of the amusements provided on the grounds 
 or in the ••Amusement Hali.." 
 
 From the promenades on the verandas of the Swiss Cottage and 
 the bridge across the Glen, we have several fine views of the gorge, 
 the, winding stream and the cascades above and below. 
 
 A few rods above the Mountain House the late Capt, Jas. Hope, 
 late of 82 Fifth Avenue, New York, erected an 
 
 ART GALLERY 
 
 which contains a superb collection of more than one hundred of his 
 finest and most celebrated paintings. Here can be seen some of the 
 leading beauties in Watkins Glen and its surroundings; also views in 
 New England, Virginia, California, Europe, etc., etc., chief among 
 which are his celebrated pictures of 
 
 RAINBOW FALLS 
 
 in Watkins Glen, and his great historical paintings of the 
 
 ARMY OF THE POTOMAC, AND BLOODY LANE 
 
 14 
 
RAINBOW FALLS AND TRIPLE CASCADE 
 
Visitors can spend many a pleasant hour here, and no one should fail 
 to see this splendid collection. Our way now lies through the woods 
 by a shaded path, and is called 
 
 SYLVAN GORGE, 
 
 which was until recently inaccessible, and is one of the wildest, most 
 beautiful and interesting portions of the Glen. There are two paths, 
 and to enjoy it fully one should go by one and return by th.e other. 
 Continuing, we take the Sylvan Path, turning abruptly to the left 
 above the Art Gallery, and follow the path winding down through the 
 stately forest. We pause on Forest Cliff to enjoy the magnificent 
 view down The Vista. From beneath the green sylvan arches we 
 look down into the depths, with picturesque tree-clad cliffs on either 
 hand. To the left, perched on a jutting crag, more than a hundred 
 feet above the bed of the stream, we catch a glimpse of Hope's Art 
 Gallery, and rustic arbor, mid their emerald surroundings; while 
 beyond the tasteful structures the iron bridge spans the chasm, and 
 the view finally dies away in the shadows of Whirlwind Gorge. 
 Turning, we pursue our course, pausing oft to admire the mossy 
 slopes that crown the chasm, and to gaze down upon Diamond Fall 
 and all the wild surroundings of forest, rock and stream. 
 
 Our walk through the woods gradually descends until we are 
 nearly on a level with the stream; and here, in the rocks in all direc- 
 tions, are found the remains of the same kind of pools that are now 
 seen in the bed of the stream. A word on the formation of these 
 peculiar pools may not prove uninteresting to those who are not fami- 
 liar with them. In the spring, when the stream is ver^ high and the 
 ice breaking up, large quantities of rock, boulders and gravel are car- 
 ried down by the tremendous power of the water; and sometimes 
 these boulders lodge in a natural seam in the rock, or in a curve 
 in the bed of the stream, and are there whirled and rolled around, 
 until, aided by the gravel that collects, they gradually grind out these 
 basins or pools in the softer rock beneath. This process, going on for 
 years, has worn some of them to an immense size and depth. In 
 some instances the boulders have been forced from their resting places 
 at the bottom of the pool, and carried away; but in many instances, 
 especially in the uppsr glens, they are still to be seen in the basins 
 they have carved. The remains of these basins are, in many places, 
 to be seen now, where the channel has deepened or changed and left them. 
 
 i6 
 
SYLVAN GORGE 
 
Proceeding on our journey we see a succession of little rapids 
 and cascades leaping into Sylvan Gorge, of which this is the upper 
 termination, called the 
 
 SYLVAN RAPIDS, 
 and they glide and dance very beautifully through their irregular rocky 
 channel. At the head of the Sylvan Rapids a rustic bridge spans the 
 stream, from which as we cross to the south side, we have a delight- 
 ful bird's eye view down through Sylvan Gorge, with its many wind- 
 ings and mysterious recesses. Below the bridge is the " Bath Tub, " 
 which will be readily recognized by its perfect resemblance to that 
 necessary article. 
 
 lyooking upward we find ourselves in 
 
 GLEN CATHEDRAL, 
 
 and here obtain the best general view of this masterpiece of Nature's 
 handiwork. All attempt at description fails, and words are inadequate 
 to paint a picture that would do this subject justice, or convey to the 
 mind an idea of its grandeur. The Cathedral is an immense oblong 
 amphitheatre, nearly an eighth of a mile in length. Here the Glen is 
 wider than at any other point; the rocky walls tower to a great height 
 — over three hundred feet — and are richly tapestried with mosses and 
 clinging vines, and crowned with lofcy pines and other evergreen 
 trees. The floor is composed of a smooth and even surface of rock; 
 the vaulted arch of the sky forms the dome. In the upper end the 
 
 CENTRAL CASCADE 
 
 forms the Choir, and, as it dashes from rock to rock, sings continual 
 hymns of praise to the Infinite Power that created this mighty temple. 
 Alluding to the peculiar feelings inspired by this stupendous work of 
 Nature, a friend who once visited it said: " I have often reflected 
 upDU the insignificance of man, but never so fully realized what a 
 mere atom I was in this incomprehensible universe, as when standing 
 in this vast Cathedral and looking up its towering walls." 
 
 Recrossing the stream we continue along the north bank, in the 
 shade of immensely tall forest trees; pausing midway for another look 
 at the amber waters that spread over the level floor, and at Pulpit Rock 
 that rears its stately head above its fellows. 
 
 Situated near the upper end of the Cathedral is a large and beauti- 
 ful pool, called the 
 
 BAPTISMAL FONT. 
 
 i8 
 
THE CATHEDRAL 
 
This is one of the most remarkable of these natural basins, 
 singular for its regularity and the surpassing beauty of its form, and 
 we are astonished, more than ever before, by the wonderful clearness 
 and purity of the water, which, as the sun strikes into it sparkles 
 until it is fairly radiant. The smallest objects on the bottom are 
 clearly discernible in pools where the water is ten or fifteen feet deep, 
 while its refracting and distorting powers are very great. We now 
 ascend the 
 
 GRAND STAIRCASE, 
 
 about one hundred and seventy feet in height. Passing along on the 
 cliff a few rods, we come to a short flight of stairs leading down to the 
 
 VERANDA, 
 
 descending which we obtain one of the finest views of the Central 
 Cascade at our feet. This fall of about sixty feet is very beautiful, 
 angular and irregular, yet symmetrical; while far above, projecting 
 through the trees, is seen Pulpit Rock. Reascending we find our- 
 selves in the 
 
 GLEN OF THE POOLS, 
 
 so named from the number of rock basins it contains. Pursuing the 
 path on the north bank a short distance to a point directly over the 
 Central Cascade, and looking back down through Glen Cathedral, we 
 have the 
 
 POET'S DREAM, 
 
 a truly magnificent scene. We come now to another rustic bridge, 
 below which is the Mermaid's Pool, and looking up we have what has 
 been appropriately termed, the 
 
 MATCHLESS SCENE, 
 which view seems to combine within itself all the manifold beauties 
 of the Glen. Broken and angular in its formation, rock and water, 
 cascades and deep pools, winding channels and seething rapids, foliage 
 and sky, all combine in a chaotic intermingling, yet form a harmon- 
 ious and picturesque whole. As w^e proceed we are never tired of 
 admiring the extreme beauty of the water; and the sunlight shimmer- 
 ing down through the foliage strikes into the pools, waking their 
 crystal depths into life ; while new phases of magical beauty surprise 
 us at every step, like the ever-varying changes in a kaleidoscope. 
 
 Leaving this point we follow the path on the south bank, through 
 this section of the Glen, employing our time in examining the curious 
 
 20 
 
THE POOLS 
 
structure of the pools, one of which especially will be noticed, called 
 the Horse Shoe. 
 
 We now come to a little staircase on the south bank, by which 
 we ascend to a more elevated path ; but before we do, we pass by it 
 and a little further up the Glen, to obtain a fine view of the 
 
 TRIPLE CASCADE AND RAINBOW FALLS. 
 
 The Triple Cascade is deemed by many to be the finest in the 
 Glen. As its name indicates, it is composed of three portions, one 
 above another, each different in form from the others, and forming a 
 beautiful combination. Directly opposite the Triple Cascade on the 
 south side, a little brook leaps over the brow of a great cliff nearly 
 four hundred feet high down into the Glen, trickling over the irregu- 
 lar surface of the rock until it reaches a point thirty feet above the 
 foot-path, where it falls over a projecting shelf, the edge of which is 
 curved outward in a crescent form. The water does not descend in a 
 smooth sheet, but in a myriad of tiny threads and drops, forming a 
 sparkling crystal veil, behind which our course leads. This novel 
 cascade is known as Rainbow Falls. Beyond and above the Triple 
 Cascade, spanning a narrow pass in the gorge, we see the Platform 
 Staircase, while far above our heads on the north bank. Castle Cliff is 
 seen through the trees. This section of the Glen of the Pools is 
 called the Giant's Gorge. We return to the little staircase before 
 mentioned, and ascend to the elevated pathway, taking in new views 
 of the Triple Cascade at every step, and come to the 
 
 RAINBOW FALL, 
 
 behind which we pass. The space between the fall and the cliff is 
 narrow, but sufiiciently wide to allow free passage. While standing 
 behind the fall and looking out through the misty curtain, the novelty 
 of the position and the peculiar brilliancy that the radiant drops of 
 falling water impart to everything viewed through them, fill us with 
 wonder, and is beautiful beyond description. In the afternoon, from 
 June to September, when fair weather prevails, the rays of the sun fall 
 into the gorge, and the enraptured visitor, in looking through the veil, 
 beholds two most beautiful rainbows, a primary and secondary; a 
 sight that, once enjoyed, can never be forgotten. 
 
 We take a backward glance at Glen of the Pools and Matchless 
 Scene, pass the Triple Cascade, and under overhanging rocks come 
 to a staircase leading to an inclined platform, called 
 
RAINBOW FALLS AND TRIPLE CASCADE IN WINTER 
 
PLATFORM STAIRCASE. 
 
 Here are seats which we find very welcome after our climb, and 
 where we obtain a fine retrospective view of the Glen of the Pools 
 with its ragged gorges, and a more defined view of the Rainbow Fall, 
 showing its course before taking its final leap, while below us lies 
 Diana's Bath, a clear, circular pool, nearly twenty feet deep. We are 
 now to pass through 
 
 SHADOW GORGE, 
 
 in which portion of the Glen some of the most severe labor was per- 
 formed, but its final accomplishment was a high compliment to the 
 engineering skill of those who had it in charge. We leave the plat- 
 form, ascend to follow the path along the south cliflf, where it is nar- 
 row and cut in the solid, rocky face of the clift. It winds in and out, 
 following the curves of the gorge, high above the water. We now 
 see how appropriately this has been named the Shadow Gorge. The 
 trees on the cliffs above are very high, and in many places almost 
 meet overhead, and as the light strikes down through them their sha- 
 dows are reproduced in the pools below, forming a combination of 
 beautiful lights and shadows that surpass description. Here the 
 stream seems a succession of basins connected by rapids and little 
 falls, while ahead of us is another rustic bridge spanning the stream, 
 and a little beyond it is the 
 
 EMERALD POOL, 
 
 one of the most beautiful of the basins; very regular in form, bottom 
 covered with gravel, and water of great purity and brilliance. I^ook- 
 ing up the Glen, our journey seems about to come to a sudden termi- 
 nation, shut off by a wall as regular as if composed of solid masonry, 
 but as we cross the bridge and follow the pathway, we see on approach- 
 ing that the Glen makes a sudden turn to the right, around this 
 
 FROWNING CLIFF 
 
 that appeared to obstruct our further progress. At this place the 
 seams in the rock intersect each other at right angles, giving to the 
 whole the effect of masonry. The corner formed by this cliff on the 
 south side, conveys the idea of the work of human hands, and is 
 named the 
 
 PILLAR OF BEAUTY. 
 
 24 
 
THE POOLS IN WINTER 
 
Directly at the foot of this cliff is another large and very deep 
 pool, the water in which is from twelve to fifteen feet deep, and as 
 clear as crystal; and as it passes under the sharp angle of the cliff, it 
 mirrors in its pellucid depths an inverted picture of the frowning 
 rocks and graceful foliage above. The mosses and ferns are here very 
 tine. These cliffs mark the entrance to the section called 
 
 GLEN ARCADIA, 
 
 and it well deserves the name, for a more perfect Elysium cannot be 
 imagined. The scene before us has been called 
 
 THE ARTIST'S DREAM, 
 
 where all the beauties of the other glens, silver cascades and crystal 
 pools, light and shadow, sharp angles and graceful curves, foliage, sky 
 and rock, mingle and produce a picture that more resembles an ecstatic 
 dream than anything that can elsewhere be found. The rocks do not 
 here tower to such immense height, nor is the scenery so sublime as 
 in some of the sections of the glens through which we have passed, 
 but what is lost in grandeur is more than atoned for in the wild 
 beauty of the scene. 
 
 Our path now lies along the north cliff", on the rocky shelf some 
 distance above the stream, where the water trickles from above, and 
 runs down over the rocks in little streams. The gorge below us is 
 known as the 
 
 NARROW PASS, 
 
 and is full of interest, as the walls tower high on either side, and 
 approach near together. After rounding another sharp curve, we are 
 once more obliged to cross the stream by means of a bridge, and pro- 
 ceed along the south side, through the Narrow Pass, under shelving 
 rocks, that extend far out over our heads. Passing around an angle, 
 we come in sight of 
 
 PLUTO FALL, 
 
 on which the rays of the sun never shine. It appears like a subter- 
 ranean gallery, for the air is damp and cold, and the dashing and 
 rumbling of the Fall, as it echoes through the pass, adds to the gloomy 
 sublimity of the spot. As we draw near we ascend a short staircase 
 crossing over the fall where we obtain a fine view of it, which is of 
 singular beauty, and essentially different in form from any we have 
 yet seen, as it falls into a dark, deep basin, and extends about thirty 
 
 26 
 
ARTIST'S DREAM 
 
feet under the rock on the edge of the stream. We climb around the 
 falls, and stop to take a farewell look at the Narrow Pass, or, as it is 
 called when viewed from this point backward, the Spiral Gorge. 
 
 Our course now lies along the north side of the head of Glen 
 Arcadia, and the way is clear, though "wondrous crooked," before 
 us. The rapids here are the most beautiful in all the Glen. The 
 channel is tortuous, and as in the Glen of the Pools, consists of a 
 succession of curiously-carved basins connected by narrow rapids and 
 cascades. The largest of these basins is called the 
 
 POOL OF THE NYMPHS. 
 
 Passing under the shelving rocks, we finally arrive at the head ot 
 the section, formed by the Arcadian Fall. This is a beautiful cascade, 
 falling into a kind of natural grotto; and at its foot is a beautiful 
 basin. Near the head of this section a staircase leads to the north 
 cliff, and a few rods of pathway bring us to another rustic bridge, 
 thrown across the chasm directly above or over Arcadian Fall, for the 
 purpose of giving visitors a fine rear view of Glen Arcadia, which, 
 viewed from this romantic spot, is called 
 
 ELFIN GORGE, 
 
 and is a scene of rare and enchanting beauty. This bridge is the 
 dividing line between Glen Arcadia and 
 
 GLEN FACILITY, 
 
 the latter so called because of the comparative ease with which it may 
 be explored, except in times of high water. The most important of 
 the great natural beauties of the Glen terminate here, but many 
 visitors go a short distance beyond, to see the new magnificent iron 
 bridge of the Syracuse, Geneva & Corning Railway Co., which spans 
 the Glen at a height of 165 feet above the water, and well worth a 
 visit. (Illustration p. 40.) We have passed through two and a-half 
 miles; are six hundred feet above our starting point, and being 
 satisfied with an endless change and variety of scenery, enter 
 
 GLEN HORICON, 
 
 half a mile above Elfin Gorge, and beyond the railroad bridge above 
 mentioned, which consists of a large basin or amphitheatre, contain- 
 ing some twelve or fifteen acres with steep wooded banks, several 
 hundred feet high, broken into curves and promontories, the lower 
 
 28 
 
PLUTO FALLS 
 
level of which is a barren "pathway of the floods," and the whole a 
 picture of commingled grandeur and solitude. Just beyond is a 
 winding, rocky gorge, terminating in a vast area called 
 
 GLEN ELYSIUM, 
 
 because of its natural beauties of water, lawn and grove, and its 
 susceptibility of being made one of the most attractive and delightful 
 pleasure grounds imaginable. It is nearly a half mile long, and one- 
 fourth of a mile wide, containing within its lofty, sloping banks, 
 nearly fifty acres, filled with cozy rural retreats, carpeted with grasses 
 and mosses, overlooked by giant trees, and graced and adorned with 
 a wondrous variety of foliage. 
 
 After leaving Glen Elysium, we come to Omega Falls — the last — 
 and beyond this fall, which is one of the most complicated and 
 beautiful in the series, 
 
 GLEN OMEGA 
 
 stretches westward for half a mile or more, till it opens out in the 
 "hill country," like a great fan; and the Glen comes to an end more 
 than three miles from its beginning at the entrance of Glen Alpha. 
 
 After a quiet rest, we start on our return, taking it leisurely, and 
 stopping frequently to admire the numberless beauties that escaped us 
 on our ascent. And, we may here say, that the Glen is so extensive, 
 and the beauties so varied that one may make many visits, and yet 
 each time find new features that he had not hitherto observed. Some- 
 times a difference of a few feet in a position will materially alter the 
 outline of a picture. It is frequently the case that the visitor more 
 fully realizes and appreciates the extent, sublimity and grandeur of 
 the Glen, after he has twice accomplished its ascent. We stop a few 
 minutes to look with wonder down into the grand old Cathedral, and 
 after descending the staircase, passing through the Cathedral, and 
 retracing the winding path through the woods, we finally find our- 
 selves again at the Swiss Chalet. It is a most welcome spot, and its 
 refreshments are very acceptable. Here can be obtained the best 
 selection of Stereoscopic Views, of Watkins and Havana Glens, by 
 eminent artists, which are faithful copies of the most striking points 
 of interest, and enable the tourist, on returning home, to keep in vivid 
 remembrance the many pleasant associations connected with his visit. 
 Here visitors can find many little souvenirs to take with them to the 
 eager, expecting ones at home, and they are advised to avail them- 
 
 30 
 
POOL OP THE NYMPHS 
 
selves of the opportunity of securing some memento of Watkins Glen. 
 Crossing to the south side under cover of the Iron Suspension Bridge 
 (illustration p. i) we come to the Glen Mountain House again. 
 
 We notice near the south end of the bridge, a sign-board on 
 which we read 
 
 "TO THE SUMMIT." 
 
 Our wonder is excited, and not wishing to miss any of the beau- 
 tiful surroundings of this wonderful place, thitherward we bend our 
 steps; and by a winding and continually ascending path passing 
 through a beautiful wood, we arrive at 
 
 THE SUMMIT, 
 
 which well deserves the name, as it is the highest point in the 
 vicinity, and commands a fine view of the lake and surrounding 
 country for nearly thirty miles. Another path brings us back by a 
 nearer route to the Glen Mountain House, when, if not too wearied, 
 we continue our enjoyable explorations, but not by the path we came; 
 because another is recommended as promising fresh beauties. 
 
 Instead of returning by the Long Staircase, through the Glen, 
 from the Swiss Cottage we take the path that bears to the left, along 
 the slope of the hill, called Cliff Avenue, or one bearing to the north, 
 directly behind the Swiss Cottage, called "To the Observatory." 
 The former leads us through beautifal groves, and affords us occa- 
 sional glimpses into the dizzy depths of Glen Alpha. The roar of 
 the cascades, and the cool vapors arising from them, reach us even at 
 this height. The latter enables us to climb to the summit of 
 
 TABLE MOUNTAIN, 
 
 as it is called, where we sit down to rest beneath the stunted ever- 
 greens that grow upon the brow of the mountain, at the little "Obser- 
 vatory Building," and gaze with mingled delight and amazement at 
 the scene before us. For miles the valley lies spread out like a map 
 at our feet, forming a perfect picture, and certainly one of the most 
 magnificent and soul-entrancing scenes that we ever beheld, and 
 which leaves a lasting impression on every beholder. Directly below 
 us lies the village of Watkins, with its shaded avenues, its beautiful 
 churches, public buildings, &c., while at the wharf lies several steamers 
 and a variety of small craft, for Seneca Lake has quite an extensive 
 and increasing commerce. 
 
 32 
 
WATKINS GLEN VIADUCT 
 
We regret very much to leave our elevated position and descend 
 to the lower world, but after a refreshing- rest from our delightful 
 rambles and reviewing the truly splendid panoramic scene below us, 
 and gaining new strength from the pure breezes that sweep the lake, 
 we return to our comfortable quarters at the Glen Mountain House, to 
 rest, and write to our friends to come and do likewise. 
 
 There are a number of delightful drives in the neighborhood of 
 Watkins Glen, also excursions upon the lake, that offer tempting 
 inducements. One of the drives leads from Watkins Glen to Havana, 
 and still further up the valley. It lies along the level plain on the 
 west side of the valley, under precipitous hills and frowning cliffs on 
 the one side, and the beautiful valley, with its border of hills on the 
 other. The road is hard and smooth, and margined with trees and 
 shrubbery. At one point, near Havana, a little brook falls about one 
 hundred feet over the edge of the cliff, called Aunt Sarah's Fall (after 
 an old Indian woman who formerly lived there), making a very fine 
 cascade. There is a little niche in the face of the rock, near the verge 
 of the fall, in which, an ancient legend says, great treasures were 
 hidden. This whole district, lying around the lake, was once the 
 hunting-grounds of the Seneca Indians. In accordance with the 
 manifest destiny of the race to which they belonged, they have all 
 passed away, leaving naught behind them save their mouldering 
 bones (many of which, with their rude implements of war, clubs, 
 tomahawks, scalping-knives, beads, ancient French coins, Jesuitical 
 crosses, little brass camp-kettles, arrow-heads, &c., are annually ex- 
 humed on both sides of the Glen Creek, a short distance east of the 
 entrance to the amphitheatre), and their strange and poetic legends, 
 preserved and handed down to the present. Almost every spot has 
 some historical interest, and with very many of the localities are 
 associated some of those wild imaginative tales of the wars, loves or 
 wrongs of that race which is fast becoming extinct. These legends 
 clothe their scenes with a deep interest. 
 
 Continuing about one and a-half miles beyond the pretty little 
 village of Havana, eastward is Havana Glen, not so extensive as 
 Watkins, but very interesting and well deserving a visit, as it pos- 
 sesses many curious and remarkable attractions. This place may 
 now be conveniently reached upon the new electric car line which 
 connects Watkins with the thriving city of Elmira. Another equally 
 
 34 
 
beautiful and interesting drive, across by the head of Seneca lyake 
 and its eastern shore, is to Hector Falls, where a fine body of water is 
 precipitated, by foaming torrents, cascades and rapids, from a height 
 of nearly four hundred feet into the valley, whence it rushes off to 
 rest in the mighty depths of the lake. 
 
 Omnibuses and easy-riding carriages, with careful and intelligent 
 drivers, can always be obtained at the Glen Mountain House, at rates 
 so reasonable as to induce all who have the time to avail themselves 
 of the opportunity to see it. 
 
 And we would respectfully, but urgently, recommend a trip over 
 Seneca Lake, from Watkins to Geneva and return, in one of the 
 S. L. S. Navigation Co.'s palatial steamers. The ofificers are very 
 polite, spare no pains to interest their passengers, make them com- 
 fortable, and render their voyage pleasant. 
 
 The scenery along the shores of this beautiful body of water vies 
 with any found in this country. To the north, the lake stretches 
 away as far as the eye can reach, with the sky and clouds mirrored 
 upon its bright blue surface; the hills sweep back from the lake in 
 graceful undulations, the picturesque little hamlets and villages 
 clinging to their sides, and nestling in the valleys; while back from 
 the water still further, miles of well-tilled farms meet the view; and 
 on the rising slopes many flourishing vineyards appear, from the 
 product of which large quantities of excellent wine, in great variety, 
 is manufactured and sold annually. 
 
 The round trip to Geneva and return, with the several stops at 
 picturesque landings, makes a voyage of over ninety miles. The 
 beautiful city of Geneva, adorned by its abundant shade, broad 
 avenues, numerous costly private homes and busy trading streets, has 
 much to interest the traveler. The new Nester Hotel and the 
 Kirkwood are the principal stopping places. Geneva is the seat of 
 the New York State Agricultural Experiment Farm, open to all 
 visitors, and also of Hobart College. The celebrated Geneva Mineral 
 Springs are also an attraction. The great majority of visitors to 
 Watkins Glen either arrive or depart by steamer. 
 
 35 
 
ZU 6kn IDountain l>ou$e 
 
 CHE pure air of this mountainous region has proved so conducive 
 to health, and especially for nervo2isness and sleeplessness 
 that the *' Glen Mountain House " (erected in 1872 at an 
 elevation of 300 feet above the village), has been greatly 
 enlarged, and its capacity so increased that 300 guests can be 
 comfortably accommodated within its walls. It is lighted throughout 
 with gas, possesses all the modern conveniences found in any first- 
 class summer hotel, and is the only Hotel connected with, or in 
 the immediate vicinity of Watkins Glen. 
 
 Great attention has been paid to sanitary regulations; the drain- 
 age is excellent; an abundance of pure spring water for all purposes; 
 and everything in and about the house and grounds is kept scrupu- 
 lously clean and neat. 
 
 A pleasing and satisfactory feature connected with the romantic 
 location of this hotel is, the novelty of situation of the dining-room, 
 which is in a Swiss Chalet (such as is found among the^mountains, 
 lakes and glens of Switzerland) across the Glen from the hotel, 
 whereby all unpleasant odors arising from cooking, noise ' and con- 
 fusion occasioned by servants, and heat from ranges and ovens, are 
 wholly avoided, rendering the Glen Mountain House one of the 
 most delightfully cool and pleasantly situated summer hotels in the 
 United States. 
 
 To protect guests from sun and storm, there is a beautiful and 
 substantial (covered) iron bridge connecting the buildings. 
 
 Among other important improvements, is a building apart from 
 the hotel known as Amusement Hall, where music, dancing, and all 
 rational amusements can be enjoyed, while those who desire rest and 
 quiet are not disturbed. 
 
 36 
 
Hundreds of visitors coming merely for a brief inspection of the 
 glen, are charmed every season into a prolonged stay at the Glen 
 Mountain House and many go but to return another year to enjoy 
 the varied pleasures of this ideal place. 
 
 Free admission to Watkins Glen is furnished to all who have 
 ROOMS at the Gle.v Mountain House, only, enabling them to visit 
 the " Glen." either upper or lower, at pleasure, without the fatigue 
 occasioned by the necessity of doing the whole of it at one time, or 
 going over the same ground twice. 
 
 This '* SPECIAL PRIVILEGE " is only enjoyed by those above men- 
 tioned. 
 
 Proprietors of some of the village hotels advertise the same, 
 but it is accomplished only at the expense of the guest. 
 
 Omnibuses and easy-riding carriages are always in waiting to 
 convey passengers to the Glen Mountain House. Guests are carried 
 both ways free of charge when the stay is one or more days. 
 
 Special rates made for parties ; beautifully illustrated circulars, 
 and further information furnished upon application to the Proprietor. 
 
 Address W. E. ROBINSON, 
 
 Watkins, N. Y. 
 
 Lehigh Valley Railroad 
 
 TICKET OFFICES. 
 
 NEW YORK— 355 Broadway. 
 
 BROOKLYN— 328>^ Fulton Street 
 
 NEWARK— 792 Broad Street 
 
 PHILADELPHIA— 716 Chestnut Street; Reading Terminal, 12th 
 and Market Streets ; N. E. Cor. 13th and Chestnut Streets. 
 
 BUFFALO — 369 Main Street, corner Eagle Street. 
 
 ROCHESTER— 13 East Main Street. 
 
 CHICAGO— 218 South Clark Street. 
 
 37 
 
 Jnly-«.1Q01 
 
JUN 11 1901 
 
 ^k^mm^^ 
 
 -%^.. 
 
 5i..v_^ONofI901. 
 Fifty Third Yeae 
 
 THE CROSSMON, 
 ALEXANDRIA BAY 
 THOUSAND ISLANDS 
 
 After a stay at Watkins Glen and the Expo- 
 sition at Buffalo the well-posted traveler will next 
 visit the peerless Thousand Islands. Through 
 parlor and sleeping car trains to Clayton, connect- 
 ing with steamer for Alexandria Bay. Baggage 
 should be checked through to The Crossmon 
 
 WRITE CHA5. W. CROSSnON, 
 
 ALEXANDRIA BAY, N. Y., for hm^som^ 
 free pamphlet and full In formation. 
 
 38 
 
 AMERICAN PRINTING HOUSE 
 PHILADELPHIA, PA.