I ■ dgUwlWiiiLll SChh COMPLETE G U I J) E T THE LA K E S, ooKPmii 0UmkU Directions for tfjr (TH1 1 l v k I SB LND I O. UTEBPO i LI IT. M \N' II M Ml UTS 1843. mOMWMW AUGl Cunt illlEickrif ADVERTISEMENT. oay be proper to state what will be found in dm \<>lum< . For much of it> content- (especially for the M lin tbe whole of the " Des Scenery 1 ! lCs" and a considerable portion of the • • /) i I rmation for the TourisK") Mr. WOBMWOBTB if fcnswerable ; and he has much \ ERTISEMEN1 l II i OND EDITION rapid tale of lb. k, thi V . l»li«ber has made considerable addit ovement* in the presen t impression / I srmmu of M ^ etched by the able pencil of nioft, hare been supplied: many Additional \ tat have been interspersed through various parta of book | / h been carefully tested hy personal Offltd bj the valuable suggestions of Mr. 1 i in fOI r, whose 0) and accurate knowledge of the I^ak t baa been k.: and freely afforded to the Publisher : valuable Notes, \ I r, have been ad«l. kopessor Bbdown I logy of' and a Chapter on the 1> I of Lu \ ft, has b famished by Mr. N VI. It has been the aim of the Publisher to produce a Guide which, at a reasonable price, may serve as an accurate field companion to the passing Tourist, as well as con- tain chapters of sufficient interest to assist in wiling away hours when weariness or unfavourable weather prevents the Traveller from out-of-door enjoyment. The large portion of the Work which claims Mr. Wordsworth and Professor Sedgwick for its authors warrants the Publisher in expressing his confident hope that he has attained his object : and grate- ful for the patronage which enabled him to dispose of a whole edition in a portion of a single summer, he again commits this volume to the continued support of a liberal Public. CONTENTS. Ambleside 40 Angle Tarn (Troutbeck)... 46 Angle Tarn (Borrowdale) 58, 75 Ash Course, or Esk Hause 55, 83 Ara-Force 49, 105, 107 Arthur's Round Table ... 108 Bardsea 3 Barrow Cascade 63 Bassenthwaite Water ... 87 Belle Isle 37 Birker Force ... 16, 56 Blea Tarn 40 Black-lead Mine Bleaberry, or Burtness Tarn Black Sail ... Blowick Borrowdale... Borrowdale Yews Bowness Bowderdale... Bowder Stone Bowfell Bowscale Tarn Broughton ... Brother-water Brougham Hall Castle Brownrigg Well Burton Butterlip How Burnmoor Tarn Buttermere ... Calder Abbey Bridge Carl Lofts ... Carlisle Cartmel Casterton Castlerigg Brow Castle Head... Castle Crag... Catchedecam Causey Pike... 69 79 80 93 53,61,63 ,. 69 . 36 . 58 . 65 ,. 75 . 78 . 16 48, 92 ,. 108 . 109 .. 106 . 25 ,. 51 ,. 56 79, 82 57, 85 .. 84 .. Ill .. 112 22, 27 25, 30 53 65 105 78 Coniston Cockley Beck Cockermouth Countess' Pillar Corby Crummock Water Dacre Castle Dalton Deepdale Derwent Water Dockray Dove Crag ... Druid's Circle, Keswick Duddon Dungeon Gill Dunmail Raise Easedale Eagle Crag Edenhall Egremont ... Elter Water Ennerdale Water .. Bridge .. Esthwaite Lake Eskdale Fairfield Ferry-house (Windermere) Fleetwood Route Floutern Tarn Friar's Crag... Furness Abbey Giant's Grave Caves Gillerthwaite Glencoin Glenridding... Goats Tarn ... Gowbarrow Park .. Grasmere Great Gable Greenup Grisedale Grisedale Tarn 13 55 85 111 112 80, 82 91 12 92 60, 63 89 93 67 13 41 52 51, 53 65 112 86 45 80, 83 84 18 55 46 18 3 83 62 4 108 109 58 } 84 91 92 17 89, 91 51, 53 . 72 . 53 . 92 . 52 Grisedale Pike 78 Grasmoor 78 Hardknot 54 . Castle 17 Hartshop 92 Hawkshead 18 Hawes Water ... 31, &3 Hays Water 46, 49 Haul Gill 57 Helm Crag 57 Helvellyn 52 Ascent of . . 104 High Street 32 Holywell 38 Holker 22 Honister Crag . . . . 80 Humphrey Head . . . . 22 Ingleborough . . . . 2 Ivy Crag . . . . . . 45 Kendal Route .. M Kendal Kentmere . . . . . . 33 Kepple Cove Tarn . . . . 105 Keswick .. .. 50, 59 Kirkby Lonsdale .. ~. 26 Kirkstone . . . . . . 47 Pass of . . 48, 102 Lamplugh . . . . . . 84 Lancaster . . . . . . 20 Lancaster Sands . . . . 21 Langdale (Excursion) 40, 54 Pikes .. .. 41 Langstreth . . . . o4, OS Levers Water . . . . 18 Levens Bridge . . . . 88 Ling Crag Long Sleddale Long Meg & her Daughters 108 Low Wood . . . . 35, 47 Low Water . . . . . . 17 Loughrigg Fell .. .. 44 Lodore 63 Lorton Yew.. . . . . SI Lowes Water . . . . 82 Lowther Castle . . . . 109 Lyulph's Tower . . 49, 89 Matterdale .. .. 89, 91 Mayburgh . . . . . . 108 Milnthorpe i>6 Mickledore 74 Mosedale .. .. 68, S;> Nab Scar 46 Newlands 7$ Newby Bridge . . . . 23 North, Route from the . . 36 Old Man, Coniston . . 17 Old Church.. Old Penrith Over-Sands Route. Patterdale Peas Gill .. Penrith Pillar Preston Red Tarn Round Knott Rosthwaite . ■ Rydal Water Waterfalls . Saddleback .. Scout S and n\ and in the foliage of the trees, through all the til una, from the pale and brilliant yellow of tin- birch an the deep greens of the unfaded oak and alder, and i upon the rocks, upon the trees, and the i J most travellers are either stinted, or stint ti- the space between the middle or last week in 1 1 the middle or last week in June, may be ; the best combination of Ion- days, fin r, and i of impressions. Few of the nativi en in full but, for whatever may be wanting in depth i mora than an equivalent will be found in \\w diver- hage, in the blossoms of the fruit-and-berry-bearing trees which abound in the woods, and in the golden flowers of the broom and other shrubs, with which many of the copses veined. In those woods, also, and on these mountain- 1 which have a northern aspect, and in the the spring-flowers still linger; while the open and sunny places are stocked with the ilowers of the apprt Aching dimmer. And, besides, is not an exquisite pleasure >till untasted by him who has not heard the choir of linnets and thru>hes chaunt- ing their love-songs in the copses, woods, anil ws of a mountainous country; safe from the birds of prey, which build in the inaccessible crags, and are at all hours heard wheeling about in the air ? The numb. midable creatures is probably the chief cause, why. in the TIME FOR VISITING THE COUNTRY. 111. narrow vallies, there are no skylarks ; as the destroyer would be enabled to dart upon them from the surrounding- crags, before they could descend to their ground-nests for protection. Tt is not often that the nightingale resorts to these vales ; but, almost all the other tribes of our English warblers are numer- ous ; and their notes, when listened to by the side of broad still waters, or when heard in unison with the murmuring of mountain-brooks, have the compass of their power enlarged accordingly. There is also an imaginative influence in the voice of the cuckoo, when that voice has taken possession of a deep mountain valley, very different from any thing which can be excited by the same sound in a Hat country. Nor must a circumstance be omitted, which here renders the close of spring especially interesting ; I mean the practice of bring- ing down the ewes from the mountains to yean id the vallies and enclosed grounds. The herbagti being thus cropped as it springs, that first tender emerald green of the season, which would otherwise have lasted little more than a fortnight, is prolonged in the pastures and meadow- for many weeks: while they are farther enlivened by the multitude of lambs bleating and skipping about. These Sportive creatures as they gather strength, are turned out upon the open mountains, and with their -lender limbs, their snow-white colour, and their wild and light motions, beautifully accord or contrast with the rocks and lawns upon which they must now begin to seek their food. And last, but not least, at this time the traveller will be sure of room and comfortable accommodation, even in the smaller inns. I am aw are that few of those who may be inclined to profit by this recommendation will be able to do so, as the time and manner of an excursion of this kind are mostly regulated by circumstances which prevent an entire freedom of choice. It will therefore be more pleasant to observe, that, though the months of July and August are liable to many objections, yet it often happens that the wea- ther, at this time, is not more wet and stormy than they — who are really capable of enjoying the sublime forms of nature b 2 IV. ORDER OF APPROACH. in their utmost sublimity — would desire. For no traveller, provided he be in good health, and with any command of time, would have a just privilege to visit such if he could grudge the price of a little confinement among them, or inter- ruption in his journey, for the sight or sound of a coming on or clearing away. Insensible must be be who would not congratulate himself upon the bold bursl shine, the descending vapours, wandei and the invigorated torrents and waterfall-, with which 1 . weather, in a mountainous region, is accompanied. At a time there is no cause to complain, either of the mom of midsummer colouring, or the glarin sphere of cloudless, and hot days. Thus far concerning the respectiyi advantages of the differentseaM.n- fol .ntrv. As to the order in which objects are b< st seen— a lake composed of water flowing from i land- ing itself till its receptacle is filled to the brim.— it fol that it will appear to most adyant its outlet, especially if the lake be in a mountainous for, by this way of approach, the traveller features of the scene, and is gradually i sublime recesses. Now, even one knows, that from an. and beauty the transition to sublimity i>. easy and f.r but the reverse is not so; for. after the faculti elevated, they are indisposed to humbler excitemei * The only instances to which th< apply, are Derwent Water and Lowes Water. Peru i ed form all the other Lakes by being surrounded * it fantastic mountains of Borrowdale to the south, the ot fckiddaw to the north, the bold steep, ol to the east, and to the west the clustering nioimtai Lowes Water is tame at the head., but tov . tZil7 V ^ ^ 8 ' eneral obse ™ tion h olds good : neither mountains that dignify the landscape towards the oir COMPARISONS, HOW INJURIOUS. V. It is not likely that a mountain will be ascended without dissappointment, if a wide range of prospect be the object, unless either the summit be reached before sun-rise, or the visitant remain there until sun-set, and afterwards. The precipitous sides of the mountain, and the neighbouring* sum- mits, may be seen with effect under any atmosphere which allows them to be seen at all ; bat he is the most fortunate adventurer, who chances to be involved in vapours which open and let in an extent of country partially, or, dispersing- sud- denly, reveal the whole region from centre to circumference. A stranger to a mountainous country may not be aware that his walk in the early morning ought to be taken on the eastern side of the vale, otherwise he will lose the morning light, first touching the tope and thence creeping down the > of the opposite bilk, a- the ran ascends, or he ma] to Borne central eminence, commanding both the shadows from the and the lights upon ti n mountains. But, if the horizon line in the east be low. the western - ma) betaken for the sake of the n m the m of light from the rising sun. [nth like rest the contrary course should be taken. Alter all. it is upon th< atravelli along with him that hi- acquisitions, whether must principally depei I be allowed a lew words this 6Ubj< Nothing i< more injurious t<> genuine feeling than the practice of hastily and ungraciously depreciating the Face of one COUntrj by comparing it with that of another. True it is, "Qui bene distinguit bene docet; v yet fastidionso wretched travelling companion ; and the best guide, to which in matters of taste we can entrust ourselves, is a disposition to he pleased. For example, if a traveller he among- tin Alps, let him surrender up his mind to the fury of the gigantic- torrents, and take delight in the contemplation of their almost irresistible violence, without complaining of the monotony of their foaming course, or being disgusted with the muddine • b 3 VI. COMPARISONS, HOW INJURIO of the water, apparent even where it is violently agitated. In Cumberland and Westmorland, let not the comparative weakness of the streams prevent him from sympathising with such impetuosity as they possess ; and, making the moat the present objects, let him, as he justly may do, observe with admiration the unrivalled brilliancy of the water, and that variety of motion, mood, and character, that arises oat the want of those resources by which the power of the Bl in the Alps is supported. — Again, with mountains; though these are comparatively of diminul size ; though there is little of perpetual snow, and do summer-avalanches is heard among them ; and tl left by the ravage of the elements are here comparatively :. and unimpressive, yet out of thifl vi 1 -y sense of stability and permanence that is, to many mi, more grateful — " While the coarse ruslu Si#h forth their aiu'u-nt melodies.* Among the Alps are few places which d Una feeling of tranquil sublimity. Havoc, and ruin, and deaobt and encroachment, are everywhere more or lees obtrad and it is difficult, notwithsi the pikes, and the snow-capped summits of the i from the depressing Bensation, thai the whole are in a raj process of dissolution ; and. were it not that the destrucl agency must abate as the heights diminish, would, in tin* come, be levelled with the plains. Xeverthel. aid relish to the utmost the demonstrations o( every B] power at work to effect such chang From these general views let as descend a moment A stranger to mountain imagery naturally on his rir-* looks out for sublimity in every object that admits of it : is almost always disappointed. For this disappointment there exists, I believe, no general preventive ; nor is it desir- able that there should. But with regard to one ( ALPINE SCENES. VII. objects, there is a point in which injurious expectations may be easily corrected. It is generally supposed that waterfalls are scarcely worth being- looked at except after much rain, and that, the more swoln the stream, the more fortunate the spectator ; but this, however, is true only of large cataracts with sublime accompaniments : and not even of these without some drawbacks. In other instances, what becomes, at such a time, of that sense of refreshing coolness which can only be felt in dry and sunny weather, when the rocks, herbs, and flowers glisten with moisture diffused by the breath of the precipitous water ? But, considering these things as objec- tions of sight only, it may be observed that the principal charm of the smaller waterfalls or cascades consists in certain proportions of form and affinities of colour, among the com- ponent parts of the scene; and in the contrast maintained between the falling water and that which is apparently at rest, or rather settling gradually into quiet in the pool below. The beauty of such a scene, where there is naturally so much agitation, i^ also heightened, in a peculiar manner, by the glimmering, and, towards the verge of the pool, by the steady reflection of the surrounding images. Now, all these delicate distinctions are destroyed by heavy iloods, and the whole stream rushes along in foam and tumultuous confusion. A happy proportion of component parts is indeed noticeable among tin; landscapes of the North of England; and, in this characteristic, essential to a perfect picture, they surpass the scenes of Scotland, and, in a still greater degree, those of Switzerland. DIRECTIONS AND INFORMATION THE TOURIST. There are three approaches to the Lakes through Yorkshire ; the least advisable is the great north road by Catterick and Greta Bridge, and onwards to Penrith. The Traveller, however, taking this route, might halt at Greta Bridge, and would be well recompensed if he could afford to give an hour or two to the banks of the Greta, and of the Tees, at Rokeby. Barnard Castle also, about two miles up the Tees, is a striking object, and the main North Road might be rejoined at Bowes. Every one has heard of the great fall of the Tees above Middleham, interesting for its grandeur, "as the avenue of rocks that leads to it is to the geologist. But this place lies so far out of the way as scarcely to be within the compass of our notice. It might, however, be visited by a Traveller on foot, or on horseback, who could re- join the main road upon Stanemoor. The second road leads through a more interesting tract of country, beginning at Ripon, from which place see Fountains' Abbey, and thence, by Hackfall and Masham, to Jervaulx Abbey, and up the Vale of Wensley ; turning aside before Askrigg is reached, to see Aysgarth-force, upon the Ure ; and again, near Hawes, toHardraw Scar, of which, with its waterfall, Turner has a fine drawing. Thence over the fells to Sedbergh, and Kendal. The third approach from Yorkshire is through Leeds. Four miles beyond that town are the ruins of Kirkstall Abbey, should that road to Skipton be chosen ; but the other, by Gtley, may 2 CHOICE OF APPROACH. be made much more interesting, by turning off at Addington to Bolton Bridge, for the sake of visiting the Abbey and grounds. It would be well, however, for a party previously to secure beds, if wanted, at the inn, as there is but one, and it is much re* to in summer. The Traveller on foot, or horseback, would do well to follow the banks of the Wharf upwards, to Burnsall, and thence cross over the hills to Gordale — a noble scene, beautifully described in Gray's Tour, and with which no one can be disappointed. Thence to Malham, where there is a respectable village inn, and so on, by Malham Cove, to Settle. Travellers in carriages must go from Bolton Bri< ! y | >ton, where they rejoin the main road; and should they be inclined to visit Gordale, a tolerable road turns oft' beyond Skipton. A mile north of Settle, under Gigglcswick Scar, the road panes an ebbing and flowing well, worthy the notice of the Natm and when at Clapham, six miles from Settle, the Tourist should not omit to inquire for Clapham Cave, a striking and curious cavern which has recently been discovered within tl of Mr. Farrer, of Ingleborough Hall. It is situated within half a mile of the New Inn, from whence parties may be accommo- dated with a guide to this beautiful and singular object. miles to the right of Ingleton, is Weathercote fine object ; and in the same vicinity are several other ca vera of a similar description. About a mile distant from W is Chapel-le-dale, a favourable point for tl borough, the height of which is 2361 feet above the level sea ; but whoever diverges for these, must return to Ingleton, and proceed to Kirkby Lonsdale, near to which town ob the view from the bridge over the Lime, and channel of the river ; and by no means omit looking at the Vale of Lune from the Church-yard. From this point to Kendal the distance is 13 miles, by a good road. The journey towards the Lake country through Lancashire is, with the exception of the Vale of the Ribble at Preston, un- interesting, till you come near Lancaster, and obtain the fells and mountains of Lancashire and Westmorland. Lancaster Castle, and the Tower of the Church seenr. make part of the Castle, in the foreground. The Tourist approaching through Lancashire should deter- FLEETWOOD ROUTE. 3 mine, when at Preston, upon the route which he will take on entering the Lake District. The Railway from Preston to Fleetwood, communicating with steam-boats which cross the Estuary, to Bardsea, on the Furness coast, has opened out ano- ther route by which the Lake District may be approached, and it therefore becomes necessary that the Tourist should decide whether he will take this route, or proceed forward to Lancas- ter and cross the Sands to Ulverston, or (which is most direct) to Kendal, by the Vale of the Lune or Kent, and thence to Bowness. The latter route is perhaps attended with the least danger, and brings the Traveller at once into the region of the Lakes without exposure to the uncertainties of a sea voyage. If, however, the Tourist should wish to visit Furness Abbey before entering on the Lake District, then either of the two former routes should be selected. All these roads will be found noticed in the following pages. We purpose to conduct the Stranger bij each of the three Routes before mentioned, in succession, to Amble- side, as temporary head-quarters, and afterwards point out the approach from the North* FLEETWOOD ROUTE. 1— PRESTON to ULVERSTON, by Fleetwood. To Fleetwood, by Railway 1 hour. Fleetwood to Bardsea,* by Steam-boat 1£ „ Bardsea to Ulverston :i miles. Correct information of the times of starting the Trains from Preston to Fleetwood may be obtained at the Railway Station. Fares, 4s., 3s., and 2s., according to the class. At Fleetwood an elegant Hotel has been erected, which is conducted by Mons. Vantini, the Proprietor of the Euston Hotel, in London, and there are other comfortable Inns in the town. Conveyances are in attendance on the arrival of the Steamer at Bardsea to take passengers forward to Ulverston, * Inns and Public Houses are marked thus (*). FLEETWOOD ROUTE. three miles distant, and from which place the Excursion to Fur- ness Abbey, a circuit of 14 miles, may be conveniently made, taking the direct road to Dalton ; but by all means returning through Urswick, for the sake of the view from the top of the hill before descending into the grounds of Conishead Priory. If time should serve, Pedestrians might at once proceed from Bardsea to Furness Abbey by the following route. Miles. Miles. 5 Bardsea to Furness Abbey, by Birkrigg 5 Miles. 2 Dalton .. 5 Uiverston Miles. 12 Bardsea is within a short walk of Conishead Priory, the nificent residence of T. R. G. Bradyll, Esq., which the Tourist would be much gratified by visiting. Through the liberality of the proprietor, the house, which has some good pictures, is allowed to be seen on Wednesday- and Friday the spacious gardens are open to the public every d Sunday. The section of the gardens appropriated to the gp of American plants is said to be the most extensive in FURNESS ABBEY. The Monastery that has long borne the name of Abbey, according to the authority of John Stell, a Monk who belonged to the House, was first planted at Tulket, in Amoun- derness, in the year 11*24 ; three years after which, viz. on the 1st of July, 1127, it was translated, and founde Mien, Earl of Bologna and Morton (afterwards King 1 , in the Vale of Bekansgill,* in the Peninsula of Eur: Furness is an abbreviation of Frudernesi - the appeared in Doomeeday Book), or Futhi to have been more frequently written. FtUher is co tured by Dr. Whitaker to be a personal name, probablj of the first Saxon planter or proprietor of the district : Net a promontory ; than which hardly any appellation could be more appropriate, as descriptive oi the southern extremity of the territory where the Abbey stands. The Monks of Furness originally belonged to the Savignian order ; an order which, of all others, complied most scrupul * Bekansgill, from Lethel Bekan, the Solamm Night Shade, which once abounded in the - FURNESS ABBEY. 5 with the rules of the great parent of monachal institutions, St. Benedict. About 1148, in the Pontificate of Eugenius III., the whole order of Savignian Monks matriculated into the Cis- tercian or Bernardine, in honour of St. Bernard, a man of great sanctity and learning, who reformed and remodelled the Bene- dictine rules. In the time of Bajocis, their fifth Abbot, the Monks of Furness (after some hesitation and opposition) con- sented to become Cistercians, the rules of which order they religiously observed till the general Dissolution of Monasteries. Rising from its titular Saint, Bernard, and twelve monks, who filiated from Citeaux,* the Cistercian order, in an incredibly short time, became of great repute and corresponding extent. So rapid was its progress that before the death of Saint Bernard, he had founded 1 60 Monasteries ; and in the space of fifty years from its first establishment as an order, it had had acquired 800 Abbeys ! All the Houses belonging to this order were dedicated to the Virgin Mary. In England and Wales there were eighty-five Houses of the Cistercian order ; of which number two only were situated in the County of Lancaster, viz. Furness and Whalley, Until the time of Pope Sextus IV. their rules and observances, both as to fasting and religious devotions, were uncommonly rigorous ; but this Pontiff published a decree to mitigate the austerities of their spiritual exercises, and to preserve uniformity in table and dress. From this time they were allowed to eat flesh three times in a week, for which purpose a particular dining-room, distinct from the usual Refectory, was fitted up in every Monastery. Their dress was a whitef Cassock, with a Caul and Scapulary of the same. For the Choir dress they wore a white or grey Cassock, with Caul and Scapulary of the same, and a girdle of black w r ool ; over that a Mozet, or Hood, and a Rochet, the front part of which descended to the girdle, where it ended in a round, and the back part reached down to the middle of the leg behind. Whenever they appeared abroad, they wore a Caul and a full black Hood. This is only a general description of their dress ; for every House had something particular to itself. * Hence the name of the order, Cistercian. f The dress of the Savignians was grey, from which they were usually called Grey Monks. c 6 FLEETWOOD ROUTE. With respect to the power, privileges, benefactions and pos- sessions of Furness Abbey, it would would take almost an entire volume fully to narrate and illustrate the whole. The lordship of Furness comprehends all that tract of land, with the islands included, commencing in the north at the Shire Stones, on Wrynose Hills, and descending by Elterwater into Windermere, and by the outlet of that lake at Newby Bridge, over Leven Sands into the sea. Extending along the sea, it includes the Isle of Foulney, the Pile of Fouldrey, and the Isle of Walney. Beyond which, turning to the north-east, it ascends, first by the estuary of Duddon, and then by the river itself, — which, by the names of Duddon, and, higher up, of Cockley Beck, traces an ascending line to Shire Stones again, where the boundary commenced. The power of the Abbot, throughout the whole of this territory, in affairs both ecclesiastical and civil, was confessedly absolute. Within these limits he exacted the same oath of fealty which was paid to the King. The veneration which the sanctity and dignity of his office inspired, and the circumstance of his terri- tory being bounded on the one hand by seas almost impassable, and on the other by mountains almost insurmountable, con- spired to give to Furness the character and importance of a separate and independent kingdom. Even the military estab- lishment of the district depended upon the Abbot ; and every Mesne Lord obeyed his summons in raising his quota of armed men for guarding the coasts or for the border service. He had the patronage of all the Churches, except one. He had also, by prescription, the appointment of Coroner and Chief Constable, and all Officers incident to the Courts Baron. He, and all his men, were free from all county amerciaments, and suits of counties and wapentakes. He had a free market and fair in Dalton; with a Court of criminal jurisdiction. He issued sum- monses and attachments by his own bailiffs. He had the return of all writs ; and the Sheriff, with his officers, were prohibited from entering his territories under any pretext of office what- ever. His lands and tenants w r ere exempt from all regal exac- tions of talliage, toll, passage, pontage, and vectigal ; and no man was to presume to disturb or molest the Abbot, or any of his tenants, on pain of forfeiting ten pounds to the King ! In addition to all which, he was immediate owner and occupant of FURNESS ABBEY. 7 almost half the low country, And for protections, privileges, and immunities, there were few Monasteries indeed that could boast so much. Pope Eugenius III. and Pope Innocent III. both conferred special favours on the Furness Monks ; and the princely foundation of Stephen was confirmed and secured to them by the Charters of twelve succeeding Monarchs of England. Immense wealth was, besides, conferred on them by propitiatory offerings of the neighbouring families of opulence, who conse- crated their substance, with, their bodies, to the sacred retirement of the Abbey. With these means and appliances, the Monks exercised abso- lute dominion over the whole peninsula of Furness during four centuries, from the foundation of the Abbey till the general Dissolution of Monasteries in the time of Henry VIII. , when ail power and authority, wealth and honours, were surrendered up to the King. The last Abbot was humbled to accept, as a pension, during the remainder of his life, the profits of the Rectory of Dalton, which were then valued at £33 6s. 8d. per annum. Such is a brief and bare outline of the history of this once great and magnificent Abbey. The situation of the Monastery indi- cates the peculiar good taste of the architects. Secluded in a deep glen, which nevertheless opens out below 7 into an expanse of fertile meadows, irrigated by a murmuring brook ; and screened by a forest of stately timber, the contemplative Monks could here, unawed and unseen, perform their holy rites, and pour out their souls in prayer ! " Such is the dwelling, grey and old, which in some world-worn mood, The youthful poet dreamed would suit his future solitude ; If the old abbey be his search, he might seek far and near Ere he could find a gothic Cell more lonely than was here. Long years have darkened into time since Vespers here were rung, And here has been no other dirge than what the winds have sung ; And now the drooping ivy wreaths in ancient clusters fall, And moss o'er each device hath grown upon the sculptured wall.' , We find nothing to add to Mr. West's description of the edifice in the ■« Antiquities of Furness," published in 1805: The ruins since that time have undergone very little alteration. The magnitude of the Abbey may be known from the dimen- c 2 g FLEETWOOD KOUTE. sions of the ruins ; and enough is standing to shew that in the style of architecture prevailed the same simplicity of which is found in most houses belonging to tl. :an monks, which were erected about the same time with Furness A The round and pointed arches occur in the doors and windows. The fine clustered Gothic and the heavy plain Saxon pillars stand contrasted. The walls shew excellent masonry, a many places counter-arched, and the ruin- cement. The east window of the church has been noble ; some ol painted glass that once adorned it is preserve! in a win-low in Windermere Church. The window consist npart- ments, or partitions. In the third, fourth, picted, in full proportion, the Crucifix ion, with t; Marj j on the right, and the beloved disciple on I cross: angels are expressed receiving t! five precious wounds: below the c their proper habits, with the abbot in a are written on labels issuing from their mouths name is defaced, which would have givi In the second partition are the ti_ dragon. In the sixth is represented St. I emblems of her martyrdom, the sword and wl seventh are two figures of mitred two monks dressed in vestments. In thi ment, above, are finely painted, quarterly, the b ranee : and England, bound with the garter and i, done m the reign of Edward III. Tl tilled up by pieces of tracery, with some : and the arms of several benefactors, ter, Urswick, Harrington, Fleming, Milium. On the outside of the window at ??; ?v head of ste P hen *■ * hat of Maude his queen, both crowned, and well , the south wall, and east end of the church, are four with Gothic ornaments. In these the officiati, _ his attendants, sat at intervals during the solemn s !TL ^ emiddles P^e, where the first bar 7^1 3 " ' F0CUmbeUt %Ur ° ° f * — - T- I FURNESS ABBEY. 9 The chapter-house is the only building belonging to the Abbey which is marked with any elegance of Gothic sculpture ; it has been a noble room of sixty feet by forty-five. The vaulted roof, formed of twelve ribbed arches, was supported by six pilars in two rows, at fourteen feet distance from each other. Now, supposing each of the pillars to be eighteen inches in diameter, the room would be divided into three alleys, or pas- sages, each fourteen feet wide. On entrance, the middle one only could be seen, lighted by a pair of tall pointed windows at the upper end of the room ; the company in the side passage would be concealed by the pillars, and the vaulted roof, that groined from those pillars, would have a truly Gothic dispro- portioned appearance of sixt; . The northern side alley was Lighted by a pair of similar side i ; . hts, and a pair at the upper end : the southern side alley was lighted by four small [jointed side wind le« a pair at the higher end at present entire, and which illustrate what ii here said. Thus, whilst the upper end of the room had a profui _ht, the ild be in tl I pilar ly fall in : or porch is still stand- ing, a fine cornice, and a portico on each side. of any apartment that of a building without t: cure wall, which wa Q rle-ribbed arch that all. The | which only one r< retted upon four tall pillars, whereof three are t. tered, but the fourth ii of a plain unmeaning tion. i an addition, tl part, ! for a belfry, to ease the main tower; but that is d the monks even intended it, the -tone would not admit oi executed at Fountains and Rievaul Abbeys. The east end of the church eontai altars, besides the high altar, as appears by the chapels ; and probably there was a private altar in the sacristy. In magnitude, this Abbey was the second in England belonging to the Cister- cian monks, and next in opulence after Fountains' Abbey in Yorkshire. The church and cloisters were encompassed with a wall, which commenced at the east side of the great northern c 3 JO FLEETWOOD ROUTE. door, and formed the strait enclosure ; and a space of ground, to the amount of sixty-five acres, was surrounded with a stone wall, whioh enclosed the mills, kilns, ovens, and fish-ponds be- longing to the Abbey, the ruins of which are still visible. This last was the great enclosure, now called the Deer Park, in which such terraces might be formed as would equal, if not surpass, any in England. EXPLANATION OF THE GROUND-PLAN OF FTJRNESS ABBEY. A, B, C, Q, T, V, N, represent the parts of the church. A, the east end of the church, where the higher altar stood. Behind that was the cir cum ambulatory. In the south wall was placed the piscina, or cistern, at which the priest washed his hands before service; there is also a small niche, and over it hung the manutergium, on each side of the cistern for receiving the purifactories. Below these are four stalls, or seats, in the wall, richly ornamented in the Gothic style, in which the officiating priest, with his assistants, sat at intervals, in time of celebrating high mass. Q. the choir. — CC, chapels. — V, 1 vestry. TT, the transept. At the north end of the transept below T, is the great door into the church ; and at the south end is a door-case lead- ing to the dormitory, through which the monks came into the church at midnight to sing matins, or morning prayers. On the west side of the door at the north end of the transept, there is a spiral stair-case, which, after rising in a perpendicular direction for a considerable height, has branched out into a passage in the western wall, and led to another flight of spiral stairs, on the top of one of the clustered columns, which supported the central spire over the intersection of the nave and the transept. These different flights of steps have formed the communication between the ground floor of the chnrch and the higher parts of the spire. N, the nave of the church. Above N, is the southern aisle ; and below N. is the northern aisle. In the south wall adjoining the transept, is a door-way opening into a quadrangular court. There has probably been also a door-way in the north wall, near the west end of the nave. B, the belfry, or tower, at the west end of the church. In the wall on the south side of the ruins of this tower, close to the west window, there is a part of the spiral stairs which led to the top of the tower. CH, CL, H, K, L, M, NO, O, P, PL, QC, R, S, U, represent the chapter-house, the cloisters, and part of the Abbey adjoining. CH, the chapter -house, over which were the library and scriptorium. The roof is represented as it lately stood. The porch has been orna- mented with a deep ox-eye cornice, and pilasters of marble. The pilas- ters are demolished, but the roof is entire. On each side of this porch there is a portico in the wall, with a similar cornice. It, the dining-room, or refectory. There has been a passage leading from it to K, the kitchen and offices, over which were lodging-rooms for the secular servants. L, the locutorium, the calefactory, and conversation room. il, halls and rooms. GROUND PLAN OF FURNESS ABBEY. JO FLEETWOOD ROUTE. S, a building on the outside of the strait enclosure, supposed to have been the school-house. There is a stone seat all round, and in the south wall is the stone pillar upon which was erected the pulpit of the teacher, The roof of this building is entire, and also that of a passage adjoining. Over these have been apartments. PP, pasages;— CL, the opposite wing of the cloisters razed to the ground.— QC, the area of the quadrangular court.— PL, a porter's lodge and gateway.— M, the mill.— MR, the mill race.— O, the great oven.— NO, the ruins of a building of uncertain extent, supposed to have been the Noviciate.— UU, the ruins of buildings of uncertain extent and appropriation. The rivulet from the north, which constantly runs through the valley, is conducted by the east end of the church and side of the cloisters in a subterraneous passage or tunnel, which is arched over. Another temporary brook from the west, has been conducted by NO, and under S, in a similar manner. There has also been a subterraneous passage, leading from the race of the rivulet, under K, and forwards in an unknown direction. It has probably been conducted under some part of the church, and has served for a drain or sewer. DIMENSIONS OF THE CHURCH, THE CHAPTER-HOUSE, AND CLOISTERS. The inside length of the church, from east to west, is 275 feet 8 inches : the thickness of the east end wall, and the depth of the east end buttress, 8 feet 7 inches : the thickness of the west end wall, 9 feet 7 inches: the depth of the west end buttress, 10 feet 8 inches: the extreme length of the church, 304 feet 6 inches. The inside width of the east end is 28 feet, and the thickness of the two side walls, 10 feet. The total width of the east end is, therefore, 38 feet. The height of the arch above Q, from the floor to the underside of the centre-stone, is 52 feet 6 inches. The inside length of the Tbansept is 130 feet: the south wall is 6 feet, and the north wall 3 feet 6 inches in thickness : the inside width of the transept is 28 feet 4 inches : the thickness of the two side walls, 8 feet 8 inches. The whole breadth of the transept is, there- fore, 37 feet. The inside width of the nave is 66 feet; and the thickness of the two side walls, 8 feet ; therefore the whole width of the nave is 74 feet. The height of the side walls of the church has been about 54 feet. The inside of tHe Chapter-House measures 60 feet bv 45 feet G inches, and the thickness of each wall, 3 feet six inches. The inside width of the Cloisters is 31 feet 6 inches, and the thick- ness of the two walls, 8 feet. The area of the quadrangular court is 338 feet 6 inches bv 102 feet G inches. On solemn days the monks used to walk in procession round this court, under a shade. Dalton — Dalton was anciently the capital of Furness, and has a population of about 800. Market day, Saturday. The Courts of the Liberty and Manor of Furness are held in the Castle, which consists of an ancient square tower, situated at the top of a spacious market-place overlooking the town. The late ULVERSTON. — CONISTON. 13 distinguished artist George Romney, the portrait-painter, was born at a place called Beckside, in Dalton, on the 5th December, 1734. Ulverston is a flourishing market town and port, and is the emporium of Furness at the present day. Population, about 5000. Market day on Thursday. Considerable quantities of wrought iron ore from the neighbouring country are exported from this place — Inns, Sun Inn, Brady IPs Arms. From this quarter the Lakes would be advantageously ap- proached by Coniston ; thence to Hawkshead, and by the Ferry over Windermere, to Bowness and Ambleside ; a much better introduction than by going direct from Coniston to Ambleside, which ought not to be done, as that would greatly take from the effect of Windermere : — ULVERSTON to CONISTON WATER HEAD. 6 Lowick Bridge 6 18 Coniston Water Head* ... 16 2 Nibthwaite 8 | This road is along a narrow vale, beautifully divided by hang- ing inclosures and scattered farms, half way up the sides of the mountains, whose heads are covered with heath and brown vegetation. About three miles from Ulverston observe a farm- house on the left, and a group of houses before you on the right. Stop at the gate on the brow of the hill, and have a distant view of the lake. The whole range of Coniston fells is now in sight. Advancing, on the left see Lowick Hall, once the seat of a family of that name. Cross the river Crake at Lowick, and keep on the eastern side of the lake of Coniston till you reach the inn at its head. ISxcurgtons from erontston Skater ?$*ft&. From this inn, a leisurely Traveller might have much pleasure in looking into Yewdale and Tilberthwaite, returning from the head of Yewdale by a mountain track which has the farm of Tarn Hows a little on the right. By this road is seen much the best view of Coniston Lake from the north. An enterprising Tourist might go to the Vale of Duddon, over Walna Scar, down to Seathwaite, Newfield, and to the j , FLEETWOOD ROUTE. rocks where the river issues from a narrow pass into the broad vale Horses may be taken over this mountain track, which is, however, in places very steep and difficult. The distance is 1 Coniston Church 1 I 1 Top of Walna Scar 4 2 Runner from Goat Scar ... 3 | 2 Newheld 6 The stream is very interesting for the space of a mile above this point, and below, by Ulpha Kirk, till it enters the Sands, where it is overlooked by the solitary mountain Black Comb, the summit of which, as that experienced surveyor, Colonel Mudge, declared, commands a more. extensive view than any point in Britain. Ireland he saw more than once, but not when the sun was above the horizon. " Close by the Sea, lone sentinel, Black-Comb his forward station keeps : He breaks the sea's tumultuous swell, — And ponders o'er the level deeps. He listens to the bugle horn, Where Eskdale's lovely valley bends, Eyes Walney's early fields of corn ; Sea-birds to Holker's woods he sends. Beneath his feet the sunk ship rests, In Duddon Sands, its masts all bare :" ******* The Minstrels of Windermere, by Chas. Farish, B.D. The following description of the scenery in this Excursion is extracted from Mr. Wordsworth's Notes to the River Duddon: — " This recess (the Vale of Seathwaite), towards the close of September, when the after-grass of the meadows is still of a fresh green, with the leaves of many of the trees faded, but perhaps none fallen, is truly enchanting. At a point elevated enough to shew the various objects in the valley, and not so high as to diminish their importance, the stranger will instinctively halt. On the foreground, a little below the most favourable station, a rude foot-bridge is thrown over the bed of the noisy brook foaming by the way side. Russet and craggy hills, of bold and varied outline, surround the level valley, which is besprinkled with grey rocks plumed with birch trees. A few homesteads are interspersed, in some places peeping out from among the rocks like hermitages, whose sites have been chosen EXCURSION TO THE VALE OF SEATHWAITE. 15 for the benefit of sunshine as well as shelter ; in other instances, the dwelling-house, barn, and byre, compose together a cruci- form structure, which, with its embowering trees, and the ivy clothing part of the walls and roof like a fleece, call to mind the remains of an ancient abbey. Time, in most cases, and nature everywhere, have given a sanctity to the humble works of man, that are scattered over this peaceful retirement. Hence a har- mony of tone and colour, a consummation and perfection of beauty, which would have been marred had aim or purpose in- terfered with the course of convenience, utility, or necessity. This unvitiated region stands in no need of the veil of twilight to soften or disguise its features. As it glistens in the morning sunshine, it would fill the spectator's heart with gladsomeness. Looking from our chosen station, he would feel an impatience to rove among its pathways, to be greeted by the milkmaid, to wander from house to house, exchanging * good-morrows ' as he passed the open doors ; but, at evening, when the sun is set, and a pearly light gleams from the western quarter of the sky, with an answering light from the smooth surface of the meadows ; when the trees are dusky, but each kind still distinguishable ; when the cool air has condensed the blue smoke rising from the cottage chimneys ; when the dark mossy stones seem to sleep in the bed of the foaming brook ; then, he would be unwilling to move forward, not less from a reluctance to relinquish what he beholds, than from an apprehension of disturbing, by his ap- proach, the quietness beneath him. Issuing from the plain of this valley, the brook descends in a rapid torrent passing by the church-yard of Seathwaite. From the point, where the Sea- thwaite brook joins the Duddon, is a view upwards, into the pass through which the river makes its way into the plain of Donnerdale. The perpendicular rock on the right bears the ancient British name of The Pen ; the one opposite is called Wallabarrow Crag, a name that occurs in other places to designate rocks of the same character. The chaotic aspect of the scene is well marked by the expression of a stranger who strolled out while dinner was preparing, and at his return, being asked -by his host, ' What way he had been wandering?' replied, 4 As far as it is finished I' " The carriage road to Seathwaite is by either of the two following routes : — 16 FLEETWOOD ROUTE. 1 Coniston Church 2i Torver 7" Broughton 1 Duddon Bridge ±H 3 \ Ulpha Kirk-house 15 2 Newfield, near Seathwaite Chapel 17 Broughton Mills 8£ Newfield 12* 3* Torver 3£ 3 - Three miles beyond Torver take the road to the right 6 \ Both these roads afford many pleasing and extensive prospects, and are thus described by Mr. Green : — " The road leading from Coniston to Broughton is over high ground, and commands a view of the river Duddon ; which, at high water, is a grand sight, having the beautiful and fertile lands of Lancashire and Cumberland stretching each way from its margin. In this extensive view, the face of nature is played in a wonderful variety of hill and dale, wooded grounds, and buildings. Amongst the latter, Broughton Tower, the residence of John Sawrey, Esq., seated on the crown of a hill, rising from the valley, is an interesting object. Fertility on each side is gradually diminished, and lost in the superior height! of Black Comb, in Cumberland, and the high lands between Kirkby and Ulverston. " The road from Broughton to Seathwaite is on the banks of the Duddon, and on its Lancashire side is of various elevations. The river is an amusing companion, one while brawling and tumbling over rocky precipices, until the agitated water bee again calm by arriving at a smoother and less precipitous bed, but its course is soon again ruffled, and the current thrown into every variety of form which the rocky channel of a river can give to water." The Tourist may either return to the inn at Coniston by Broughton, or by turning to the left before he comes to that town; or, which would be much better, he may cross from Ulpha Kirk over Birker Moor, taking care to turn to the right by a very indifferent road over the common, (apparently leading only to a farm house), before beginning to descend into Eskdale, which will conduct him to Stanley Gill, at the head of the finest ravine in the country. Three-quarters of a mile higher up the valley, on the same side, appears Birker Force, dashing CONISTON OLD MAN, 17 over a high, naked, and precipitous rock.* Thence proceed up the Vale of the Esk, by Hardknott and Wrynose, to Ambleside. Near the road, in ascending from Eskdale, are conspicuous re- mains of a Roman fortress, called by the country people "Hard- knott Castle" most impressively situated on the right, halfway up the hill. This road, however, is now scarcely practicable except on foot or on horseback. It has escaped the notice of most Antiquarians, and is but slightly mentioned by Lysons. There is a Druidical Circle about half a mile to the left of the road ascending Stone-side from the Vale of Duddon : the country people call it " Sunken Church." From SPRINGFIELD, in Seathwaite, over the Mountains to STAN- LEY GILL and BIRKER FORCE, in Eskdale, and thence to Ambleside. 4 Stanley Gill 4 1 16 Ambleside, over Hardknot 2 Birker Force 6 | and Wrynose 22 The ascent to the Top of the OLD MAN Mountain is recommended before leaving Coniston ; but the ground being rugged, in places, it should not be undertaken without a guide. The height of the Old Man is 2577 feet, and the view from it is inferior to no mountain view in the country, excepting that from Scawfell or Helvellyn, if indeed it be inferior to the latter. The ascent should be made by following the ancient horse-road over Walna Scar for about a mile, and then turning to the right towards an old slate quarry, whence you will have to scramble to the summit. Low Water lies immediately below the highest point, in a hollow of the mountain, to the east, and Goat's Water is situated under the precipitous side of Dow Crag on the west. The stream from it flows into Coniston. Blind Tarn (so called, perhaps, from its having no outlet) will be seen further to the south, under a part of Walna Scar. A walk of half a mile from the top towards the north-west will bring the Traveller in sight of Seathwaite Tarn, which sends a tributary to the Duddon. Those who can give a day to the ex- cursion will do well to follow the mountain range to Wetherlam, * Stanley Gill is often erroneously called Birker Force, by the dalesmen, by which confusion of the two names the stranger is apt to be misled. The original name of this fall was, we believe, Dale- garth Force ; and was changed to Stanley Gill, by the present pro- prietor, Mr. Stanley, of Ponsonby . 1<* FLEETWOOD ROUTE. n lofty ridge that sweeps round to the north of the Old Man, under which lies a fine Tarn called Levers Water, where cop- dining is carried on much to the injury of this magnificent icene. From Wctherlam descend into Tilberthwaite, and so rot urn to Coniston. " This lake is six miles long and three- quarters of a mile in breadth. Its greatest depth is twenty- sovon fathoms, and it is famous for its charr (salmo alpinas), ■ species of trout, which inhabits the deep water, and is only taken at particular times of the year. Large quantities are potted, and sent to the south. They do not attain a large size, seldom, perhaps, exceeding a pound in weight. Coniston, Win- dermere, Wastwater, Buttermere, Crummock, and Ullswater, are, it is said, the only lakes which contain them. The charr of Coniston Water stand highest, and those of Ullswater lowest in repute." The road from Coniston Water Head to Ambleside direct, is eight miles ; but, as has been before said, a circuitous route by Hawkshead, the Ferry, and Bowness, 15 miles, in the folio wing- order, is recommended as a much better introduction to Win- dermere : — To EAYf KSHEAD, 3 m. From HAWKSHEAD/ by the Grove and Esthwaite Hall, round ESTHWAITE WATER. 11 Nearer Sawrey 2£ 2 J Hawkshead -5 * Esthwaite Water £ \ The Grove 1 \ Esthwaite Hall \\ From HAWKSHEAD to the FERRY, through Colthouse and High Wray. Ferry House, by Belle Grange G£ \ Colthouse | li Blelham Tarn 2 \ High Wray 2$ From HAWKSHEAD to AMBLESIDE, by the Ferry, Windermere, and Bowness. 2\ Nearer Sawrey 2| \\ Ferry House, through Far- ther Sawrey 4 2 Bowness, over Windermere by the Ferry 6 4 Low Wood Inn 10 2 Ambleside 12 Hawkshead is a compact little market-town, at the southern end of which, on a good elevation, stands the Parish Church, commanding a pleasant prospect of the Vale and Lake of Esthwaite, the latter of which is two miles long and half a mile in breadth. Here is a Free Grammar School, founded in 1585, by Edwjne Sandys, Archbishop of York, whose family name is HAWKSHEAD. — BOTANICAL NOTICES. 19 yet found in the vicinity. Some years ago this school was filled with pupils not only from the neighbourhood but from the sur- rounding counties, numbering at one period about 120. The poet Wordsworth, and his Brother, the late Master of Trinity College, Cambridge, with many others distinguished for classical attainments, were educated here. The most pleasant way round Esthwaite Water is by the Grove and Esthwaite Hall, passing Esthwaite Lodge, (T. Beck, Esq.)? on the right ; a little beyond w T hich the road follows the banks of the lake to its outlet near the bridge. From thence through the village of Sawrey, with Lake Field (J. It. Ogden, Esq.), on the left, pass on its eastern side, and, by Colthouse at its head, to Hawkshead. From Hawkshead to the Ferry- house on Windermere, where there is a good and commodious inn, the road on either side of the lake passes over hilly ground through the villages of Sawrey . The sight of Windermere from the top of the hill is extremely fine. The Tourist halting here for a while, should visit the Station- house, which is within a short and pleasant walk of the Inn, and commands a beautiful prospect of nearly the whole extent of the lake. Proceed to Bowness by the Ferry, and from thence to Low Wood and Ambleside ; or, if there be an objection to crossing the Ferry, there is a good road, abounding in a delight- ful succession of changes, on the west side of the lake, 8 miles, to Ambleside. BOTANICAL NOTICES. Atropa Belladonna. — About Furness Abbey. Circjea alpina. — On the road-side between Ulverston and Hawks- head. Bmnuiiblfarir. )° D T , the ° ld Man . Mo ™ tai "> Coniston a l zo l^ es f These three species may be found on , . / l most of the mountains in the Lake hypnoides. ) DiBtrict . Geranium sylvaticum. — Coniston Water Head. Ornithopus perpusillus. — On the road-side on the East side of Coniston Lake. Habenaria albida. — On the high ground between Coniston and Hawkshead. Spiraea salicifolia. — At Pool Bridge, near Hawkshead. IVIecanopsis cambrica. ) Au . , , -c w . -, Hypericum Androsamum. \ About the Ferr y> Windermere. Geranium columbinum. — Near Fell-foot, Newby Bridge. Serratula tinctoria.—Bj the river-side, near Newby Bridge. D 2 20 THE OVER-SANDS ROUTE. From PRESTON to LANCASTER takes three-quarters of an hour, by Railway. Fare 5s. and 3s. according to class. Lancaster, the capital of the County Palatine of Lancaster, is very finely situated on a hill rising abruptly from the river Lune which falls into the Bay of Morecambe at the distance of six miles. There is excellent accommodation at three good inns, the Kings Arms, Royal Oak, and Commercial On the summit of the hill is the Castle, a majestic structure originally built by Roger de Poictou in the 11th century, and re-edified by John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, in the 14th. It has been greatly enlarged in modern times, and now serves as the county gaol. The Parish Church of St. Mary's, an ancient structure with a lofty tower, stands also on the Castle Hill. A handsome new church has been recently erected in Penny Street, and there are several other Episcopal and Dissenting Places of Worship in that town. The County Lunatic Asylum is a hand- some building situated on Lancaster Moor, about a mile from the town, and is capable of accommodating 300 patients. The foreign commerce of Lancaster has been on the decline for many years, having been injured by the competition of Liverpool ; and the river being difficult of navigation, in neap tides the larger ships generally unload at Glasson Dock, five miles dis- tant from the town. Lancaster is connected with the principal towns of the county by a canal, which is carried over the Lune two miles from the town by a magnificent aqueduct, erected by the late Mr. Rennie. There are two swift packet-boats on the canal to and from Kendal daily. Lancaster is celebrated for the manufacture of mahogany furniture, and several cotton and silk mills have of late years been established here. The formation of the Railway to Lancaster has been of great importance to the town, and may be considered as the beginning of a new era in its history — transforming a listless and stationary community into one of those " hives of industry " by which the commercial character of this country is sustained. Market on Wednes- day and Saturday. LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON. 21 LANCASTER to ULVERSTON, over Sands. Si HestBank* 3£ J Lancaster Sands 3£ 9 Kent's Bank (across the Sands) 12£ 1 Lower Allithwaite ... 13£ 1J Flookborough* 15 I Cark* 15| I Leven Sands 16 5 Across the Sands to Ulver- ston 21 The Stranger, from the moment he sets his foot on those Sands, seems to leave the turmoil and traffic of the world behind him : and, crossing the majestic plain whence the sea has re- tired, he beholds, apparently from its base, the cluster of moun- tains among which he is going to wander, and towards whose recesses, by the Vale of Coniston, he is gradually and peacefully led. " On entering the Sands, to the left," says Mr. West, " Heysham Point rises abruptly, and the village hangs on its side in a beautiful manner. Over a vast extent of sands, Peel Castle, the ancient bulwark of the bay, rears its venerable head above the tide. In front appears a fine sweep of country sloping to the south. To the right Warton Crag presents itself in a bold style. On its arched summit are the vestiges of a square encampment, and the ruins of a beacon. Grounds stretching from the eye for many a mile, variegated in every pleasing form by woods and rocks, are terminated by cloud-topt Ingleborough. A little further, on the same hand, another vale opens to the sands, and shews a broken ridge of rocks, and beyond them groups of mountains towering to the sky. Castle-steads, a pyramidal hill that rises above the station at Kendal is now in sight. At the bottom of the bay stands Arnside Tower, once a mansion of "the Stanleys. The Cartmel coast now, as you advance, becomes more pleasing. Betwixt that and Silverdale Nab (a mountain of naked rock) is a great break in the coast, and through the opening the river Kent rolls its waters to join the tide. In the mouth of the estuary are two beautiful conical isles, clothed with wood and verdure. As you advance toward them they seem to change their position, and hence often vary in appearance. At the same time a grand view opens of the Westmorland mountains tumbled about in a most striking manner. At the head of the estuary, under a beautiful green hill, Heversham village and church appear in fine perspective. To the north, Whitbarrow Scar, a huge arched and ben fled cliff, of an immense height, shews its storm-beaten front. The d 3 22 OVER-SANDS ROUTE. intermediate space is a mixture of rocks, woods, and culti- vated patches, forming a romantic view. At the side of the Eau, or river of the sands, a guide on horseback, called the Carter, is in waiting to conduct passengers over the ford. The priory of Cartmel was charged with this important office, and had synodals and peter-pence allowed towards its maintenance. Since the dissolution of the priory, it is held by patent of the Duchy of Lancaster, and the salary, twenty pounds per annum, is paid by the Receiver- General." On leaving Lancaster Sands at Kent's Bank, having the bold headland of Humphrey Head on the left, pass through Flook- borough and Cark, and begin to cross Leven Sands at Cark Lane, three miles to the landing-place, whence the distance is two miles to Ulverston. At the JSau, or ford of the river Leven, another Carter conducts you over the stream. On entering these Sands you have " on the right a grand view of Alpine Scenery. A rocky hill, patched with wood and heath, rising immediately from the coast, directs the eye to an im- mense chain of lofty mountains, apparently increased in height and magnitude since they were seen from Hest Bank." On the left is a small island called Chapel Island, on which stand the ruins of a chapel, originally dependent on Conishead Priory, which is seen richly embosomed in wood on the opposite coast. Near Humphrey Head is Holywell, noted for its mineral w r ater; and in the immediate vicinity of Flookborough, in a richly-wooded park, stands Holker Hall, the magnificent residence of the Earl of Burlington. About a mile and a half from Holker is Cartmel, whose ancient church, once a priory, is an interesting object. BOTANICAL NOTICES. Pyrus Aria. "\ Veronica spicata. /„ _ __ Helianthemum canum. \ On rocks at Humphrey Head, near Astragalus glycyphyllos. C Cartmel. Hypoch;eris maculata. ) Convallaria multifiora.—Ai Holker. Those Tourists who dislike to cross the Sands may take the following extended route by Levens Bridge. The road is excellent, and passes through a pleasant and agreeable country. The objects upon it, as far as Levens Bridge, are noticed in the Kendal Route, p. 24. LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON. 23 12 Hale* . ... 12 3 Lindal* £ Beethom* ... 12* 2 Newton* l| Milnthorpe ... . . ... 13| 2 Newby Bridge* l| Heversham* ... 15 2 Low Wood* .. l| Levens Bridge . ... 16* 3 Greenodd* ... 4 Wither slack* ... 20* 3 Ulverston LANCASTER to ULVERSTON, by Levens Bridge. 23* ... 2b\ 27* ... 29* 32* ... 35* After crossing Levens Bridge, the Ulverston road turns off, five miles from Kendal, over extensive mosses, to the left, having the noble limestone rock of Whitbarrow (yielding but few fossils), whose abrupt escarpment forms a remarkable object in the scenery, on the right hand. The road passes Castle Head, on the left, before reaching Lindal, where there is a long and tedious hill to overcome, from the top of which is seen in retrospect an extensive view of Morecambe Bay. On ascending the hill,ELLER- how, the residence of Geo. Webster, Esq., is seen in the valley on the right. The road is now a gradual descent to Newby Bridge, at the foot of Windermere, where there is a comfortable Inn. From Newby Bridge to Ulverston is a pleasant drive of eight miles, passing on the road the extensive Cotton Mills of Ains- worth and Co., at Backbarrow, and the Gunpowder Works of Daye Barker, and Co. at Low Wood. [Deviation. — Another road to Bowness branches off at the Bridge Inn on the Moss to the right, leading through Lyth, Crosthwaite, and Winster. The distance to Bowness from Milnthorpe by this road is about fourteen miles.] From Ulverston the Tourist may follow the route to Amble- side by Coniston, already recommended, or he may proceed more directly by Newby Bridge, as follows : — ULVERSTON to BOWNESS and AMBLESIDE, by Newby Bridge. 3 Greenodd 3 18 Bowness 16 3 Low Wood 6\6 Ambleside 22 2 Newby Bridge* 8 | BOTANICAL NOTICES. > LATHRiEA squamaria. Conyza squarrosa. Polypodium vulgare, var. cambricum, Trif olium c / ragiferum. — Near Low Levens Hottonia palustris. Andromeda polifolia Sium angustifolium, inundatum. Apium graveolens. Levens Park. > On Brigsteer Moss, 24 KENDAL ROUTE. Silaus pratensis . ") ! I roscTAMUS m^er. > Near Levens Church, i ! i noglossum officinale. 3 Vbbbascum Thapsus. 1 Sum r«pe7W. f At foot of Bngsteer Scar. \i\vu,Y>Gi± vulgaris. J Po r.v podium calcareum. — Whitbarrow. Melamptrum sylvaticum. — Whitbarrow woods. Allium Schamoprasum. — Rusmittle, Lyth. Ophrys muscifera.— Rusmittle. Hab enaria bifolia. \ Rllsmittle . G v mn ai>eni a conopsea . > Inula Helenium.— Fellside farm, at Crosthwaite. Grammitis Ceterach. — Near Fellside, do. Duosera rotundifolia. - longifolia. Anglica. Gentian a Pneumonanthe. f On Fowlshaw Moss. Utricularia vulgaris. . * minor, Scirpus maritimus. Verbena officinalis. — Road-side at Lindal. Let us now go back to Preston, and conduct the Stranger to Ambleside by THE KENDAL ROUTE. The Railway will carry him in three-quarters of an hour to Lancaster, already noticed, whence there are three roads to Kendal, severally described in the following Tables. The old road to Kendal by Burton is 22 miles, but by making a circuit of eight, miles, the Vale of the Lune to Kirkby Lonsdale will be included. The whole tract is pleasing ; there is one view, mentioned by Gray and Mason, especially so. In West's Guide it is thus pointed out: — " About a quarter of a mile beyond the third mile-stone, where the road makes a turn to the right, there is a gate on the left which leads into a field where the station meant will be found." The shortest and most direct road to Kendal is by Milnthorpe. LANCASTER to KENDAL, by Kirkby Lonsdale. 5 Caton 5 2 Tunstall . ... 13 2 Claughton 7 2 Burrow ... 15 2 Hornby* 9 2 Kirkby Lonsdale . ... 17 2 Melling 11 13 Kendal ... 30 TO KENDAL BY BURTON AND MILNTHORPE. 25 Kirkby Lonsdale contains a population of 1643, and is beautifully situated on the west bank of the river Lune. Mar- ket on Thursday. Inns, Rose and Crown, and Green Dragon, The bridge over the Lune is a very picturesque and interesting structure. It is lofty, and has three noble arches beautifully ribbed. Little is known about the date of its erection. The Clergy Daughters' School and the School for the education and training of Female Servants, at Casterton, a mile and a half distant, are objects of interest, and worthy of a visit. Under- ley Hall, the magnificent seat of Alderman Thompson, M.P. stands a mile north of the town, and nearly facing it, on the opposite side of the river, is Casterton Hall, the residence of W. C. Wilson, Esq. See p. 2. BOTANICAL NOTICES. Saponaria officinalis. — Under Kirkby Lonsdale bridge. Galium boreale. — Under Kirkby Lonsdale bridge. Allium oleraceum. — Near Kirkby Lonsdale bridge. Hypericum dubium. — Below the bridge. Geranium phceum. — Between Kirkby Lonsdale and Cowan bridge. Salix Smitliiana. \ Weighiana. f On the banks of the Lune, near Kirkby tenuifolia. / Lonsdale. Croweana. J LANCASTER to KENDAL, by Burton. lOf Burton lOf I \ End Moor* 16 4| Crooklands* \b\ | 6 Kendal 22 Inns. — Burton, Royal Oak, King's Arms. A good part of the way from Lancaster to Burton is cheered with fine prospects of the sea, and the mountains of Lancashire and Westmorland. About six miles from Lancaster, at a short distance, on the left, is Warton Crag, a bold elevation, and highly interesting to the Botanist. After leaving Burton, the road passes, on the right, a stupendous limestone-rock, called Farleton Knott, said to resemble the rock of Gibraltar in out- line ; and about three miles from Kendal a hill on the right, called Helm, or Castle-steads, with the traces of a Roman en- campment on its summit, is passed. LANCASTER to KENDAL, by Milnthorpe. 2| Slyne* 2f If Bolton-le-Sands* 4 2 Carnforth* 6 Junction of the Milnthorpe and Burton roads ... 8 4 Hale* ... .... 12 £ Beethom 12£ 1\ Milnthorpe 13| l£ Heversham* 15 1£ Levens Bridge -.. ... 16| 4J Kendal 2H 26 KENDAL ROUTE. This road leaves Warton Crag on the left, and branches off from the Burton road at a distance of eight miles from Lancas- ter ; then passes through the pleasant village of Beethom to Milnthorpe, where there is a good inn — The Cross Keys. Dallam Tower, the residence of George Wilson, Esq., is seen on the left, in a richly-wooded park. One mile from Milnthorpe pass through Heversham, the birth-place of the late venerable Bishop Watson. A mile further stands Levens Hall, the ancient and picturesque seat of the Hon. F. G. Howard, which is deserving of notice. The gardens were originally laid out by the gardener of James II. in the old Dutch style, and are the admiration of every visitor to this delightful spot. The park is separated from the house by the high-road, and is well stocked with deer. There is a pleasant walk through the park by following the river Kent, and passing through the village of Sedgwick to Kendal. A mile from Levens pass on the left Heaves Lodge, the residence of James Gandy, Esq., and on the right, at a short distance, Sedgwick House, the seat of John Wakefield, Esq. A mile further, on the left, stands Sizergh Hall, the ancient family seat of the Stricklands. BOTANICAL NOTICES. Convolvulus Arvensis. ) -^ TT . Malva Sylvestris. f Near Heversham. Potentilla verna.— Whitbarrow Woods. Osmunda regalis.—Bj the road-side under Whitbarrow. Vaccinium oxycoccos.— Very abundant on Fowlshaw Moss. Sparganium natans. — Fowlshaw. Campanula latifolia.—lu the hedges. trachelium.— In Park-head Lane. Kendal is the largest and most important town, though not the metropolis, of the County of Westmorland, situated principally on the west bank of the river Kent, in a pleasant and fertile valley encompassed by hills of considerable height. It consists of two main streets, in continuity, from north to south, from which all the other streets, lanes, and alleys branch off at right angles. Excellent accommodations will be found at two In Spital Wood. 1'iuNi's Padus. W Cobydalis claviculata . j Hkbaoium ptdudosum. | In a margh behin( j Spital Wood, and in Viola palustris. > several moist situations. Tuolliits europceus. ) _ Chbysosplenium alternifolium. — Near the gate at Benson Hall. K AM u nc u lus auricomus. ) Stellakia nemorum. > Laverock Lane. Card amine amara. ) Geum rivale. ^ Yicia fyfoaffea. f LaveP ock bridge. Luzula pilosa. i Lathrjea squamaria. J Equisetum hyemale. — Near Old Field Wood, by the river side. Poly podium Dryopteris. } 2 . Phegopteris. > At Scarfoot. Aspidium aculeaium, var. lonchitiforme. ) Meum athamanticum. — Docker Garths. Kibes alpinum.— Docker Brow. Vaccinium Oxycoccos. \ gkelgme h Tarn Comarum palustre. ) b Tanacetum vulgare. ) In a field near Jenkin Crag Geranium robertianum, ivhite var. $ Lane. Sium latifolium. — Stock Beck. Sen e cio saracenicus. — Do. Mecanopsis cambrica. — Peat Lane, Oxenholm, and Sprint Bridge. Cnicus heterophyllus. — Peat Lane. Cryptogramma crispa. — Do. Geranium cohimbinum. — Canal Banks. Calamintiia officinalis. — Kendal Castle. Allium arenarium. — By the river side near Helsington and Mint Bridge. Tamus communis. — Common in hedges. Colchicum autumnale. — Mintsfeet. Galeopsis versicolor. — Sprint Bridge, and Burneside Hall. Lycopus europceus. — Burneside Tarn. Bidens tripartita. — Near Burneside Hall. Thalictbum minus. — Lane to Cowan Head. Euonymus europmus. — Near Hundhow. Senecio sylvaticus. — Pine Crags. Sedijm anglicum. — Pine Crags and Katherheath. Narcissus Pseudo-Narcissus. — Do. Geranium phceum. — Pepper-hag, near Burneside. sylvaticum. — Common in most of the wooded lanes. Sium inundatum.— Coypy Tarn, Tenter-fell, Stricklandgatc. Habenaria viridis.— Tenter-fell, Do. Sanguisorba officinalis.— In meadows round the town. Anchusa sempervirens. — Near Tolson Hall gate. Cystopteris/?v/^77u\— Gilling-grove, Kendal. EXCURSIONS FROM KENDAL. HAWES WATER. 31 Before proceeding to Bowness and Ambleside, the Tourist, if so inclined, may conveniently make the following <&xcuvuon& from Heitlral. To SHAP WELLS. 2£- Skelsmergh Stocks* 2| i 4 High Borrow Bridge* ... 9 2* Plough Inn* 5 | 6 Shap Wells 15 Shap Wells A spacious Hotel with Baths and every accommodation for visitors has been erected at this place. Shap Spa is stated by Mr. Alderson, in his " Treatise,'' to be a most genial and sanative saline spring, milder than the Harrogate, and more active than the Gilsland Water, and in its properties nearly allied to that of Leamington. It is much frequented by persons seeking health or recreation. BOTANICAL NOTICES NEAR SHAP. Carduus nutans. — Near the Toll-bar. Cnic us heterophyllus. — Hardendale. Campanula glomerata. — Do. Polygonum viviparum. — Do. Galium boreale. — Do. Hieracium Lawsoni. — Between Shap and Anna Well. Poterium sanguisorba. — Hardendale Nab. Sesleria ccerulea. — Do. V J To HAWES WATER, through Long Sleddale. 4£T;Wateh Gate U I 2 Sadgill Bridge ^ , Ehomola rosea. \ ° n the s,des of Goatscar. Rubus Chamcsmorus. — On the top of Goatscar. Aspidium Oreopteris. — Stony places. Gnaphalium dioicum. — Very fine on high pastures.* To HAWES WATER through Kentmere. 5 Staveley* * 5 I 3£ Nanbield 12£ 4 Kentmere Chapel* 9 | 2^- Head of Hawes Water* 15 On leaving Kendal, the Ambleside road is to be pursued as far as Staveley, at which place a road to the right leads direct into the valley of Kentmere. This road is practicable for car- riages as far as the Chapel (near which is a small ale-house), beyond this point the excursion must be made on foot. A little to the south of the Chapel, stands Kentmere Hall, an ancient building with a square tower, now occupied as a farm-house. Bernard Gilpin, who, from his learning and piety, was called the " Apostle of the North," was born here in 1517. Towards the head of the vale, Kentmere Tongue shoots boldly forward from the Sleddale side of the dale towards Hill Bell and Rains- barrow, which, with High Street, altogether produce, from certain points, arrangements and combinations, which, in sub- limity, are scarcely equalled in Westmorland. The road crosses Kentmere Tongue on its northern side, from which it is a steep ascent to the pass at Nanbield, where there is a fine prospect of Hawes Water and the country about Low- ther and Penrith. From this place the road descends preci- * The Botanist will look in vain for Stipa pennata, if this beautiful grass ever grew here. Sibthorpia europcea, said to grow at Buck- barrow Well, is nothing more than Chrysosplenium oppositifolium, with large foliage but no flowers. The Silurian limestone before noticed, furnishes none of the plants or land-shells characteristic of the carboniferous Limestone. e 3 ; » 4 KENDAL H0UT2. p inml H Guide Post • n £ Skelwith Fold ... 3 LI Hi-h < : 1 Colwith Bridge 1\ Little Langdale Tarn . 4 | Fir>t siLT>it of G«M 2 Pel Lafc ... 5£ 2\ Blea Tarn • H 2 Wall End 1 Ambleside GREAT AND LITTLE LANGDALE. 41 "Behold! Beneath our feet a little lowly Vale, A lowly Vale, and yet uplifted high Among the mountains ; even as if the spot Had been, from eldest time, by wish of theirs, So placed, to be shut out from all the world ! Urn-iike it was in shape, deep as an Urn ; "With rocks encompassed, save that to the South Was one small opening, where a heath-clad ridge Supplied a boundary less abrupt and close ; A quiet treeless nook,* with two green fields, A liquid pool that glittered in the sun, And one bare Dwelling ; one Abode, no more ! It seemed the home of poverty and toil, Though not of want : the little fields, made green By husbandry of many thrifty years, Paid cheerful tribute to the moorland House. — There crows the Cock, single in his domain : The small birds find in Bpring no thicket there To shroud them ; only from the neighbouring Vales The Cuckoo, straggling np to the hill tops, Shouteth faint tidings of some gladder pi; At this point the Langdale Pikes appear in a new and noble aspect; indeed, "a more dignified and impressive assemblage of mountain lines scarcely exists in the north of England.'' The highest Pike, called Harrison Stickle, is perhaps about three miles from the eye, but Stickle Pike, receding towards the Pass of the Stake into Borrowdale, is more than four. The towering rock between the two Pikes is called Gimmer Crag. After leaving the Tarn the road descends rapidly to Wall End at the head of Great Langdale, f from whence it is recommended to proceed to Millbeck, a farm house across the meadows, a mile distant, and see Dungeon Gill. The Gill, having its source between the Pikes, passes through a deep cleft of the mountain, into the cheeks of which a " mighty block hath fallen" from the neighbouring heights, and got so wedged in as to form a grotesque natural arch. Langdale Pikes may be conveniently- ascended from Millbeck, where a guide may be obtained. * No longer strictly applicable, on account of recent plantations. f The upper portion of the Vale of Langdale, which lies in the direction of the Stake Pass, is called Mickleden ; and that portion of the valley which stretches westward towards Bowfell and Crinkle Crags, bears the name of Oxendale. f 42 EXCURSIONS FBOM AMBLESIDE. The best ascent is by a peat road from Millbeck to Stickle Tarn, a pretty circular piece of water, celebrated for its fine trout, reposing under the steep rocks of Pavey Ark, and thence to the top of the Pike called Harrison Stickle, whi feet in height. Although this Pike is inferior in elevation to many of the neighbouring mountains, the \iews from it are in- teresting and extensive, especially in lookir. the Vale of Great Langdale, towards Windermere, and over the open country, to the south and south-east. I Pike, which rises like a cone a little to the north, there is a fine of Skiddaw and the Vale of Bassenthwaite, : is seen but partially, and the latter not at all, from Harrison Stickle. Great Gable rears his head to t is a little nearer the eye, and Scawfell an: > are seen pre-eminent over the summit of Bow Ml. Crinkle Crasrs are a continuation of Bowfell on the south, the -"uth-west, looking over the lonely valley of Little Lanj Coniston mountains ; on the east are I and Grasmere, and on the mwtflifUl the EieliaUj forms a prominent feature in the Ian -back presents his front to the spectator in til- th e Pikes follow the road down Great Langdale, as far M Chapel, passing Thrang Crag Slat on the I those who take an interest in _:ht not to omit looking at. Near the Chapel there is a small ale-hoMe, from which it is five miles to Ambleside. The road is either by Loughrigg Tarn, or by the 1 and Grasmere Waters. The latter course is much to be prof The road strikes off on the left near up the hill the whole Vale of Langdale, with the Elterwater and Loughrigg Tarn, ai to advant.: view from High Close is exquisite, and Mr. is not a finer thing in Westmorland. ' A fen I tmdn d yarda from this point will bring you in sight i Grasmere, from whence, keeping Eydal on the left, it is two miles to Pelter Bridg wards one mile to Ambleside. This _ ot ber twenty-one miles (if Dungeon Gill and tin of which, though assisted by a carriage, it will be neccssa: walk from five to seven miles. AQUATIC EXCURSIONS. 43 Stock Gill Force, half a mile from Ambleside, is a most interesting Waterfall if seen to advantage, " but its beauties" are in a great degree lost to the generality of visitors, who see the fall only from the footpath skirting the top of the bank, and almost perpendicularly from the bottom of the channel. The spectator looks down upon the scene rather than upwards or horizontally; his view of the water is likewise impeded by a redundancy of wood." Stock Gill rises in the Screes, on the side of Scandale fell, not far from Kirkstone, and, passing through Ambleside, joins the river Rothay a quarter of a mile below the town, about four miles from its source. This rivulet is among the finest of its kind in the Lake District. Access to the Water- fall may be had on application at the Salutation Hotel. BOTANICAL NOTICES. Pvrola media, St<><-k (iill Faroe. Imp \ I Poltpodii m PAeyojrth 'is. do. Btof i bra* fa teens, Amb leoide. Hv.mi:m)J-iiij.hm WUlC* LQUATIC EXCURSION 011 wiNDF.KMERE. ... 1 I Mouth of the river ... 1 1 1 Pull WjU -A If L«>\v Wood Inn ij h Holme r.'int 4} wn to the month of tin rivet I Landing I Ambleside G] To the Landing at Water-head, where boats are moored, the walk is three-quarters of a mile. After taking boat, steer a short and attractive course bv ikirting the deeply-indented coast of Brathay into Pull Wyke, a pretty bay surrounded by rich woods, over which peep the Looghrigg and other elevated sum- mits ; and from Pull Wyke proceed by the grounds at Low Wray to the craggy and wooded promontory a little southward. From this place make for the Inn at Low Wood in a direct line, and see the Langdale and Rydal Mountains in two several and distinct arrangements, separated by the imposing heights of Loughrigg. Then return to the mouth of the Brathay by Holm Point, and up the river to the landing place. F 2 44 EXCURSIONS FROM AMBLESIDE. From AMBLESIDE to the FERRY, bv Water. 1$ Mouth of the river by the Landing 1£ 3 Belle Grange 4 j 2\ Ferry-house, pasBing be- tween the Lily of the Valley Holmes 7 \ From the Ferry-house to the Landing on Curwea'l Island 7 \ \\ Round the Is and 9} 4$ From the Pier to the Head of the Lake 14 \\ Ambleside 1 ">j 1$ If the Station-In . : from the F _th of line will be \\ mile more ... 17 The best situation on the untrj around is about ball' a mile from the junction of bay m ith the lake, tod partiei in an excursion d o wnwards will do well to pass in that direction, and from that point rather near to the Lancashire shore by which the high landl at 1 Troutbeck, and Applethw aite, will ' ad- vantage, particularly Hill Bell and the neighbour In proceeding towardi the Ferry, thai pari ol l>etweeti the two lalandl called tlie Lily ol* the Will. \ ! I Statton-hooae about a mile from the eye, and as side-screen> I bold and wooded deration aboY« II - _ht, and Curwen'i [aland on the left, for: than tirst touch at the great l>laml, it will be more pleasant row direct for the lYrry-hoii*.', theBOS Watt I S and afterwardi retara to the Perry. I .-n'g Island should be fiaite eaving which the party : (townees, or return din ide. Bj a Tourist halting i in Amhloide, the Nook alao might be visited r Scandale- beckj which makea i prettj for the pencil, residenti of i aret at Ambleside, there arc delightful ramble- over every pari gg Fell and amo: _ enclosures on it» ddei i particularly about Longhrigg Tarn, and on its eastern side about Poi How ami the 'lining to the northw ards. A few out o( the main road are particularized in the following Tables : — From AMbi.rsnu:. under Longhrigg Foil, to GRASM: $ Rothai Bridge I Miller Bridge Cottage... [ Miller Bridge Stei f Fox Chvll ' | Palter Bridge 1 1 . ... 41 mere Church ... ■ 4 Ainbb H . ... n EXCURSIONS FROM AMBLESIDE. 45 To LOUGHRIGG TARN, over Loughrigg Fell. $ Rothay Bridge 1 Deviation from the Gras- mere road on the left 1£ J Loughrigg Tarn 3 1 First sight of Grasmere ...4 2 Pelter Bridge, keeping the 1} First sight of Loughrigg I Lakes on the left ... 6 Tarn 2-J | 1 Ambleside 7 LOUGHRIGG TARN and GRASMERE. 1 Clappersgate 1 I J The Oaks 3 1£ Guide-post 2\ I 3 Grasmere Church 6 \ Loughrigg Fold 2| | 4 Ambleside 10 ELTERWATER. The foot of Elter water, either by Skelwith. Birdge or Loughrigg Fold, over Little Loughrigg, is 3£ miles from Am- side. Extensive Gunpowder Works are carrried on at Elter- ROUND KNOTT. If down the fields to the steps over the Rothay* — \ Miller Bridge Steps $ £ Deviation on the left ... 1 $ Leaving theLoughriggTarD road on Ant ooanng to the runner 1J - Bound Knott | Down a green lane by Coat Hon to Pelter Bridge ... 2f 1 Ambleside 3$ IVY CRAG. 1 Clappersgate (turn to the ri^ r ht at a BOOM recently occupied bj Hr.Bofaiufon) 1 \ First si^lit of the Coniston mountains 1J £ Opening at the top of the liill to Windermere ... l| \; Ivn Crag 3 I linn U \ Pelter Bridge 4f 1 Ambleside 5f Ivy Crag is an elevated rock on the south-east of Loughrigg Tarn. This walk, and the walk to round Knott, a little knoll above Fox Ghyll, are noticed by Mr. Green with more than his usual earnestness, and are recommended as the most delightful of the Loughrigg Excursions. VfANSFELL PIKE. £ Low Fold .} li WansfellPike ... . 'S J Terrace Road under Straw- $ Waterfall Lane ... H berry Bank 1 1 Ambleside 4* | Skelgiil 1} RYDAL WATERFALLS. 1* Lower Fall 1£| 12 Ambleside q £ Higher Fall 2 * This beautiful stream, the Rothay, has for a mile of its course above the bridge been irreparably disfigured lately by cutting oft' its windings, so as to give it all the formality of a straight-lined canal. f 3 46 EXCURSIONS FROM AMBLESIDE. FAIRFIELD i Rydal 1 1 k Turn on the right between Rydal Hall and Rydal Mount to Nab Scar ... 2£ 2\ Fairfield 5 4 Nook End Bridge over the High and Low Pikes ... 9 £ Ambleside 9$ Fairfield is the high mountain closing on the north the domain of Rydal, with an elevation of 2950 feet — Commence the ascent to Fairfield at Rydal by the road between Rydal Hall and Rydal Mount, beyond which there is a green lane that leads to the Common, whence it is a steep and craggy climb to Nab Scar. From a certain point on Nab Scar there is an ex- quisite view commanding eight lakes : viz. Windermere, Blel- ham Tarn, Esthwaite Water, Rydal Water, Coniston Water, Elterwater, Grasmere Lake, and Easedale Tarn. The Tra- veller, if so inclined, may proceed to the top of Fairfield by following the ridge. BOTANICAL NOTICES. Juncus triglumis. — Fairfield. Luzula spicata. — Do. From AMBLESIDE to HA WES WATER, over High Street. 3 Woundale 3 3£ By Troutbeck Tongue to High Street, where Hays Water is seen on the left 6£ 2\ Junction of High Street with Riggendale ; Blea Water on the right 9 2 Chapel Hill 11 To HA WES WATER, through Troutbeck and Kentmere. 4 Troutbeck 4 | 3£ Nanbield 11 3 £ Kentmere Church 7£ | 2\ Chapel Hill 13$ Hawes Water does not exceed three miles in length, and varies in width from half a mile to a quarter. It is seldom visited by Tourists, though the solemn grandeur of its rocks and mountains is exceedingly impressive. See p. 31. From AMBLESIDE to HAYS WATER. 7 Low Hartshope 7 | 2 Return by Low Hartshope 11 2 Hays Water Head 9 | 7 Ambleside 18 From AMBLESIDE to ANGLE TARN. 7 Low Hartshope 7 [ 1£ Low Hartshop 10 1* Angle Tarn 8£ [ 7 Ambleside 17 Hays Water and Angle Tarn are situated on the west side of High Street, and are celebrated for the fine trout with which they abound. EXCURSIONS FROM LOW WOOD INN. 47 3 Skelwith Bridge 3 £ Turn on the left at the top of the hill between Skel- with and Colwith-Bridges 3£ 1J Oxen Fell 4f YE WD ALE. i Hodge Close 5* If Shepherd's Bridge 7 1£ Black Bull Inn, Coniston 8$- 1 Water Head Inn 9£ 8 Ambleside 17£ TILBERTHWAITE. 7 Shepherd's Bridge, in Yew- dale 1| Tilberthwaite 1$ Little Lang dale 10 5 Ambleside, over Colwith and Skelwith Bridges 15 TILBERTHWAITE, returning by Elterwater Hall. 7 Shepherd's Bridge, in Yew- I 2 Langdale Chapel, by Flet- dale 7 I cher's Wood and Elter- 3 Little Langdale Road, by water Hall 12 Tilberthwaite ... ... ... 10 | 5 Ambleside, by High Close, Grasmere, & Rydal Waters 17 From AMBLESIDE round the Lake of WINDERMERE. 1 Brathay Bridge 1 7 Newby Bridge 4 High Wray 5 8 Bowness 3 Ferry House 8 6 Ambleside From AMBLESIDE, round the Lake, by the Ferry Points. 1 Brathay Bridge 1 I 2 Bowness... 7 Ferry-house, by High Wray and Belle Grange 8 ] From AMBLESIDE by the Eastern Side of ESTHWAITE WATER and the Eastern Side of WINDERMERE. 11 .. ... ... 17 5 Hawkshead 2 Sawrey 2 Ferry-house 6 Ambleside .. 2 Bowness 6 Ambleside 15 23 29 10 16 LOW WOOD INN. From this inn, which has lately been much enlarged, all the above Excursions may be made with the same convenience as from Ambleside. \ Troutbeck road .. 1 Low Wood WALK to SKELGILL from LOW WOOD \\ Low Fold \\ \\ Skelgill 2f \ Low Skelgill 3 CIRCUIT from LOW WOOD by AMBLESIDE, KIRKSTONE, and TROUTBECK. 3£ If Ambleside 4 Guide-post on Kirkstone 111 4£ Troutbeck 2 Low Wood 10 12 48 AMBLESIDE TO PATTERDALE. WALK or HORSE-RIDE through TROUTBECK and APPLE- THWA1TE to BOWNESS, or back to LOW WOOD. 9 Guide-post in Troutbeck 2 I 2£ Cook's House 5£ | The How, in Applethwaite 2| | 1$ Bowness 7 If the return is from Cook's House to Low Wood, the round will be eight miles. These Excursions abound in delightful prospects, and the view from the top of the hill about a mile from the inn, on the Trout- beck road, is the finest of its kind amongst the Lakes. From this point the islands of Windermere are seen ' * almost all lying together in a cluster, below which all is loveliness and beauty- above, all majesty and grandeur." AMBLESIDE TO PATTERDALE. The distance from Ambleside to the Inn at Patterdale is ten miles, and the Pass of Kirkstone and the descent from it are very impressive ; but this vale, nevertheless, like the others, loses much of its effect by being entered from the head ; so that it is better to go from Keswick through Matterdale, and descend upon Gowbarrow Park ; you are thus brought at once upon a magnificent view of the two higher reaches of the lake. To such persons, however, as decide upon visiting Patterdale from Ambleside, the following information may be useful. — The road leaves Ambleside between the Church and the Free Grammar School, and ascends gradually for upwards of three miles to the summit of the mountain pass on Kirkstone, where a small public- house has recently been erected. The road here begins to de- scend, having that part of Scandale Fell called Screes, on the left, and on the right Colddale Fell. A large detached mass of rock, called, from its shape, Kirkstone, is seen on the left, near the top of the pass. On descending from Kirkstone towards Patterdale, a new and interesting scene appears. Through a vista, you have a pretty peep at Brotherswateb and the heights of Patterdale in the distance. The road runs close to Brotherswater, and then turns at right angles across the mea- dows, where it meets with another road from Hartsop Hall at Cowbridge. Between Cowbridge and the inn at Patterdale, the romantic valley of Deepdale runs up into the mountains on the left. At the right-angular turn of the road above mentioned, there is a bridle-road through the picturesque hamlet of Low AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK, 49 Hartsop, along the side of Place Fell, which joins the main road again at Goldrill Bridge, a short distance from the Inn. The stream which flows through the hamlet of Low Hartsop, issues from the mountain tarn called Hays Water, situate on the western side of a ridge running up to High Street ; and, in wet weather, the stream from Angle Tarn forms a pretty waterfall down the craggy side of Placefell. The finest scenes on Ullswater lie between the Inn at Patter- dale and Lyulph's Tower, about four miles distant. The best way of seeing them is, to take a boat at the head of the lake, pass the islands called Cherry Holme and House Holme, and approach within sight of Stybarrow Crag. From House Holme, the views are exqusite in almost every direction. Proceed to Lyulph's Tower, an erection built by the late Duke of Norfolk for a pleasure-house, now the property of Mr. Howard, of Greystoke. It stands a little above the road in a part of Gow- barrow Park, and from the front of it are seen fine views of the lake. From Lyulph's Tower, a guide to Ara Force, about a quarter of a mile distant, may always be had. In returning to the Inn, it is advisable to row across the lake to a promontory at the foot of Placefell, and walk over the Point to Purse Bay, and thence by the farm of Blowick and Goldrill Bridge to the Inn. In this short walk, the magnificent scenery around the head of Ullswater is seen to the greatest advantage. See Ullswater. After having duly explored the beauties of Ambleside and the neighbourhood, the next Station the tourist should aim at is Keswick, which may be approached by various routes. The Direct Road is the only one that can be travelled over by car- riages, but the hardy pedesterian might select from the several routes hereafter pointed out which he will pursue. There is, however, a carriage road from Ambleside to Keswick by Wast Water, but the circuit is so extended that it is seldom adopted. This road is through Coniston, 8 miles — Broughton, 9 miles more — and over Birker Fell (a road somewhat rugged) by San- ton Bridge to Nether Wastdale, 17 miles. From Nether Wast- dale through Gosforth and Calder Bridge, thence over Coldfell to Lamplugh, and by Scale Hill to Keswick, 35 By Egremont, a better road, 37j miles — making altogether a circuit of 69 miles. If Whitehaven be included, the circuit would be 76 miles. oQ AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK DIRECT. AMBLESIDE to KESWICK Direct. 1| Rydal 1^ I 4 Smallthw ait e Bridge 12J o\ Swan, Grasmere* 5 13 Castlerigg 15£ 2 Dunmail Raise 7 11 Keswick 16^ 1J Nag's Head, Wythburn... 8 J | A mile and a half from Ambleside the tourist reaches the romantic village of Rydal. On the right is seen, embosomed in wood, Rydal Hall, the residence of Lady le Fleming, in whose grounds two pretty water-falls are pointed out to every one, and may be seen on application at the Cottage near the Chapel. The upper fall is in a glen above the Hall, but the lower fall, which is the more beautiful, is seen from a summer-house in the pleasure-grounds. Rydal Chapel is a neat edifice, and was erect- ed and endowed at the expense of Lady le Fleming. Rydal Water is one of the smallest of the English Lakes, but certainly one of the most beautiful, from its woody islets and picturesque shores ; but it ought to be observed here, that Rydal-mere is no where seen to advantage from the main road. Fine views of it may be had from Rydal Park ; but these grounds, as well as those of Rydal Mount (Wm. Wordsworth, Esq.) and Ivy Cottage, now called Glen Rothay (Wm. Ball, Esq.) from which also it is viewed to advantage, are private. A foot-road passing behind Rydal Mount and under Nab Scar to Grasmere, is very favourable to views of the lake and the vale, looking back towards Ambleside. The horse-road, also, along the western side of the lake, under Loughrigg fell, as before men- tioned, does justice to the beauties of this small mere, of which the traveller who keeps the high road is not at all aware. About 200 yards beyond the last house on the Keswick side of Rydal village, the road is cut through a low wooded rock, called Thrang Crag. The top of it, which is only a few steps on the south side, aifords the best view of the vale which is to be had by a traveller who confines himself to the public road. , " Between Rydal and Grasmere the high road formerly ran winding among, and over a succession of knolls ; and being half hidden in its serpentine course, afforded a series of exquisite views, without deforming this lovely valley. But the steepness of the hills was ill suited to the convenience of increasing traffic, and about twelve years ago a new road was made, which runs close along the lower end of Grasmere, and is fenced from it by GRASMERE. 51 a long, straight, odious stone wall, which offends the eye, and cuts the sweetest part of the landscape with its rectilinear deformity." The road skirts the margin of the lake, which is more than a mile in circumference and contains one bare green island, and presently reaches the village of Grasmere, which is beautifully situated a quarter of a mile from the high road, at the northern end of the lake. There are two small inns in the Vale of Gras- mere, one near the Church ( The Red Lion), the other ( The Swan) on the main road. From the former the valley may be more conveniently explored in every direction, and a mountain walk taken up Easedale to Easedale Tarn (2j miles), one of the finest tarns in the country, thence to Stickle Tarn and to the top of Langdale Pikes. See also the vale from Butterlip How, half a mile from the inn. * c It is the finest elevation of moderate height in the neighbourhood." Helm Crag may be visited from Grasmere. It is two miles to its summit, which is extremly rugged, and the ascent is somewhat difficult. The shattered apex of this mountain, as seen from certain points in the valley, bears a striking resemblance to a lion couchant, with a lamb lying at the end of his nose ; and to an old woman cowering.* Allan Bank, the residence of T. Dawson, Esq. is only a short distance out of the road leading from The Red Lion to Easdale, and from some places in the avenue, Helm Crag is a pleasing * Mr. Wordsworth, in one of his Poems on the Naming of Places, entitled " Joanna," thus introduces the old lady : — "When I had gazed perhaps two minutes' space, Joanna, looking in my eyes, beheld That ravishment of mine, and laughed aloud. The Rock, like something starting from a sleep, Took up the Lady's voice, and laughed again ; That ancient Woman seated on Helm-crag Was ready with her cavern ; Hammar-scar, And the tall Steep of Silver-how, sent forth A noise of laughter : southern Loughrigg heard, And Fairfield answered with a mountain tone ; Helvellyn far into the clear blue sky Carried the Lady's voice, old Skiddaw blew His speaking-trumpet ;— back out of the clouds Of Glaramara southward came the voice ; And Kirkstone tossed it from its misty head. 52 AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK DIRECT. object. Seat Sandal and all the lofty mountains south of it are seen towering over the pretty undulating Butterlip How and other elevations, and the whole Vale of Grasmere is hardly any where seen to greater advantage than from this point. In the Vale of Grasmere, on the middle of the three roads leading to Ambleside, and about a mile from the village, is a gate, which, time out of mind, has been called the Wishing Gate, from a belief that wishes formed or indulged there, have a favourable issue. A boat is kept by the Innkeeper, and this circular vale, in the solemnity of a fine evening, will make from the bosom of the lake, an impression that will be scarcely ever effaced. The steep and rugged road from Grasmere to Patterdale, by Grisedale Tarn, a distance of seven miles, turns off at a smithy four miles and three-quarters from Ambleside. Beyond the toll-bar the road begins to ascend the Pass of Dunmail Raise, between Steel Fell on the west, and Seat Sandal on the east. At the highest point, which is 720 feet above the sea, it passes a low cairn, or pile of stones, said to have been raised in the year 945, by the Anglo-Saxon King Edmund, after the defeat and death, on this spot, of Dunmail (or Dumhnail) the British King of Cumbria, and the consequent destruction of that kingdom. The river on the right of the Raise divides the counties, whence to Nag's Head, Wythburn, is one mile and a quarter. This is a convenient Station for ascending Helvellyn, and the mountain track approaching it may be ob- served from the door of the Inn. Another favourable point for commencing the ascent of this mountain is at the sixth milestone from Keswick. The ascent of Helvellyn will be hereafter noticed in the Patterdale Excursions. The direct road from Grasmere to Keswick does not (as has been observed of Rydal-mere) shew to advantage Thirlmere, or Wythburn Lake, with its surrounding mountains. By a tra- veller proceeding at leisure, a deviation ought to be made from the main road, when he has advanced a little beyond the sixth milestone short of Keswick, from which point there is a noble view of the Vale of Legberthwaite, with Blencathra (commonly called Saddleback) in front. Having previously enquired, at the Inn near Wythburn Chapel, the best way from this milestone to the bridge that divides the Lake, he must cross it, and proceed AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK BY THE STAKE. 53 with the lake on the right, to the hamlet a little beyond its termina- tion, and rejoin the main road upon Shoulthwaite Moss, about four miles from Keswick ; or, if on foot, the Tourist may follow the stream that issues from Thirlmere down the romantic Vale of Sr. John's, and so (enquiring the way at some cottage) to Kes- wick, by a circuit of little more than a mile. By following the direct road, and when about a mile from Keswick, at the top of Castlerigg Brow, " one of the richest mountain scenes is gradually unfolded that can be enjoyed from any of the carriage roads in the North of England." A more interesting tract of country is scarcely anywhere to be seen, than the road between Ambleside and Keswick, with the deviations that have been pointed out. BOTANICAL NOTICES. Hesperis matronalis. — Rivulets about Dale Head, Thirlmere. Saxifraga hypnoides. — Between Thirlmere and Keswick. Pencedanum Ostruthiurn. — By a brook from the north end of Thirlmere. From AMBLESIDE, through Grasmere, Easedale, Greenup, and Borrowdale, to KESWICK. 4 Grasmere Church 4 I Goody Bridge 4f | Thorneyhow 5| 1 Far Easdale 6$ 2 J Wythburn Dale Head ... 9 £ Push forward to Greenup Dale Head ... 9£ 3j Down Greenup vale to Stonethwaite 13 7 Keswick 20 Pursue the road, as before described, as far as Grasmere, from whence " the valley of Easedale runs far into the northern hills on the western side of Helm Crag. Near its mouth a stream flows from Easedale Tarn, and from the whiteness of the broken water is called Sour-milk Gill. Up this seldom-visited glen the foot traveller may pursue his way from Grasmere to Keswick, ascending by a steep and laborious climb to a narrow level tract of moor called Colddale fell ; after which he will descend into the Stonethwaite branch of Borrowdale, nor will he regret, though the way be longer and far more laborious, having ex- changed the high road for the freedom of the mountain-side." From AMBLESIDE, through Great Langdale, to the STAKE, and thence through Borrowdale, to KESWICK. 5 Langdale Chapel 5 4i *2 Stonethwaite 17 2 LisleBridge, near Dungeon 1 Rosthwaite* ... 18 Gill 7 1 Bowder Stone ... 19 1£ Langdale Head 8 £ 5 Keswick , ... 24 4 Top of the Stake 12 J 54 AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK BY HARDKNOTT, &C. The finest approach to Great Langdale is by pursuing the Keswick road to Pelter Bridge (one mile), which having crossed, pass on the side of the Rothay by Coat How to Rydal and Grasmere lakes, thence by High Close and Langdale Chapel to Lisle Bridge and Millbeck, which places have been before noticed in the Langdale Excursion. Ascending the Stake, the road is on the side of a turbulent stream, which dashes down into the valley of Langdale. Half a mile beyond the top of the Langdale Stake, begins the descent into Borrow- dale by the side of a river through the valley of Langstreth, where all is in a state of wildness and desolation. At the top of the Stake is a grand exhibition of the high summits of Bow Fell, Hanging Knotts, Scawfell Pikes, and Great Gable, and at a considerable distance is seen Skiddaw, partly intercepted by nearer mountains. Half way down the vale the road crosses the river, having, in the direction of Stonethwaite, a large and curious stone on the right, called Black Cap, above which is Sergeant Crag, and nearer Stonethwaite is the bold rocky elevation of Eagle Crag on the right. From Stonethwaite, the road to Keswick is by Rosthwaite, in Borrowdale, where there is a small public-house. Bowder Stone, Lowdore, and Barrow, will hereafter be described in the Keswick Excursions. From AMBLESIDE, over Wrvnose and Hardknott, to WAST WATER, thence by Sty Head "to KESWICK, or return to Amble- side by Sty Head Tarn through Langdale, or by Seathwaite, through Eskdale. | 5 Netherbeck Bridge 25 1 Overbeck Bridge 26 J Head of Wast Water ... 26£ 1 Wastdale Head 27£ 2 Sty Head 294 12 Keswick by Bowder Stone 41 b From Sty Head to Amble- side, by Sty Head Tarn, SprinklingTarn, & Angle Tarn, an d thence through the Vale of Langdale, 16£ miles, making the round 46 From Sty Head, by Sea- thwaite, and thence thro' Greenup and Eskdale, to Ambleside, 18§ miles, making the round ... 48i 1 Clapper sgate 1 2 Skelwith Bridge 3 1 Colwith Bridge and Force 4 2\ Fell Foot 6£ 1£ Top of Wry nose 8 2\ CockleyBeck 10J If Hardknott Castle Y2\ | Brotherilkeld 13 \ Bridge over the river Esk 13J- 2\ DalegarthHall and Stanley Gill 16 1 Road on the left by Ulpha to Broughton 17 3 Santon Bridge 20 2 Strand's Public House ... 22 1 From Santon bridge direct to Crook, at the foot of Wast Water, 3 miles 23 This road, which is by Skelwith and Colwith Bridges, and through Little Langdale, has been described in the Langdale AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK BY HABDKNOTT, &C. 55 Excursion as far as the place where it diverges to Blea Tarn and Great Langdale, a distance of scarcely seven miles from Amble- side, p. 40. Hence the road is to Fell Foot, formerly a public- house, when this was the main road from Kendal to Whitehaven, a fact which those who now travel over it will find it hard to be- lieve. At the time we are speaking of, the only mode for the con- veyance of goods was on the backs of pack-horses, long trains of which were often to be seen traversing these hills. 5 ' At Fell Foot begins the ascent of Wrynose to the three Shire Stones, where the counties of Cumberland, Westmorland, and Lancas- ter unite on the top of the hill. Here the road enters Lancashire, having the stream which divides it from Cumberland, on the right, and descends, though not abruptly, upon Cockley Beck, only to cross the valley and climb another mountain no less high and difficult of ascent, called Hardknott, which separates Seathwaite from Eskdale. " The aspect of the upper part of the valley at Cockley Beck, where it is crossed by the mountain-road of which we have been speaking, is dreary. A tract of desolate hills, nurses of the Esk and Duddon, rises towards the north-west into the lofty range of Scawfell and BowfelL The head of Eskdale lies between these, the highest and the roughest mountains in the country ; and we might here fancy ourselves deep in the recesses even of the wilder parts of the Scottish Highlands. The precipices of Scawfell, and of the higher point of that great mountain, called The Pikes, tower darkly and awfully on the western side ; and even on the eastern, where Bowfell slopes dow r n more gently, the passage of the traveller must be slow and cautious. The assistance of an experienced guide in this wild and perplexing region is strongly recommended. No precipice, however, bars up the head of the dale, which rises gradually to the green ridge, which marks the water's source between Eskdale and Borrowdale. This height, itself a de- pression between Green End and that part of Bowfell called Hanging Knott, is called Esk Hause.f From it we look directly down the whole of Borrowdale, and command a view of Derwent- water, with its specks of islands, the whole closed by the * Bells were attached to the collar of the leading horse of the train, A collar of this kind may be seen in the Museum at Kendal . f Pronounced Ash Course by the dalesmen. G 2 66 AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK BY HARDKNOTT, &C. pyramidal group of Skiddaw, which is here seen from head to foot, and to the greatest advantage. The outbreak of the river from this upland glen to the lower valley, some five or six miles from Esk Hause, forms a succession of falls and rapids for a considerable distance, fringed with birch and mountain-ash, the first signs of better soil and milder climate. These, in their varied combinations of rock and water, furnish ample studies for the artist or sketch er." " After crossing Cockley Beck, the Kendal and Whitehaven road begins to climb the side of Hardknott, and descends on the opposite side, with equal rapidity, down a still longer declivity, into Eskdale." Something more than half way down the hill, about 120 yards on the right of the road, are the remains of Hardknott Castle, mentioned in p. 17, from whence there is a magnificent view of Scawfell and the Pikes, supported by the immense buttresses rising from the Esk. At the foot of the hill there is a very extensive sheep-farm on the right called Brotherilkeld, and one on the left called Toes. " Proceeding down the valley, Birker Force is seen dashing over the rocks on the left, and about two miles from the foot of the hill we come to a public-house at Bout ; within a mile of which is situated a very fine waterfall called Stanley Gill, far up a deep, narrow, and thickly- wooded ravine. The stream is small, and in height the fall is not remarkable ; but in the picturesque character of its accompaniments it is in- ferior to none of those that are better known in the country. " The road to this w r aterfall turns off on the left at the village school, and a guide to the fall may be had at Dalegarth Hall, a farm-house close at hand. — [See Note, p. 17.] From the ham- let of Bout the main road should be followed nearly to Santon Bridge, where it turns off to the right to the Strands at Nether Wastdale, a distance of two miles and a half, where there are two small inns- There is a nearer cut to the Strands, for pe- destrians, by a foot road through Mitredale, which strikes across the hill on the right, a little before reaching Santon Bridge. From Bout there is a rough mountain road which traverses the moor to Wastdale Head, passing a cheerless sheet of water called Burnmoor Tarn, between Scawfell and the Screes. " Near the way-side the stream which runs down to Bout forms a cascade, bare and without enclosing precipices, yet possessing a charac- AMBLEsiDE tO KESWICK BY HARDKNO'TT, &C. 67 ter of grandeur, at all events when swollen by recent rains. The path leads betwixt Scawfell and the Screes, and then de* scends down a steep peat-track into Upper Wastdale, a little above the lake." From Wastdale Head the road is on the western side of Wast water to the Strands. The eastern side of the lake is skirted by the Screes, and is not only difficult but dangerous to attempt, from the loose and crumbling nature of the materials of which it is composed. Tourists tarrying here for a day or two will find many pleasant excursions in the neigh- bourhood, and from a little hill called Latterbarrow is a good general view of the surrounding country ; but from a hill by the Gosforth road, near the inn, is the best general view of the mountains. From Latterbarrow the lake can be seen, but Scaw- fell and the Pikes are shut out from this point of view.— [See Plate I. of Sketches of the Mountains.'] Calder Abbey, a small but beautiful ruin, is eight miles from the Strands, but this place is more generally visited in going from Wastdale by Ennerdale Water, Lowes Water, and Scale Hill to Keswick. " There is a simplicity and severity about Wast Water not to be found in any of its neighbour lakes, except perhaps that of Ennerdale, which is equally destitute of the cheerfulness im- parted by cultivation, but inferior in the height and ruggedness of its mountain boundaries." It is three miles long, half a mile broad, and forty-five fathoms in depth, being deeper than any of the other lakes. <( Within some half an hour's walk from Strands is a remarkable spot called Haul-gill, or else Hollow- gilt. It is a deep ravine at the south-west foot of the Screes, among granite rocks, which, by the decomposition of their fel- spar, have been wasted into abrupt peaks and precipices — a sort of miniature mimicry of the aiguilles of Chamouni. This is one of the most curious and striking things in the whole district ; it is a good place for ascending the Screes from Nether Wastdale (as the valley below the lake is called) for those who have strong nerves. There is a very beautiful vein of spicular iron ore here ; also some fine haematite." On the way from the Strands by Gale and Crookhead Cot- tages, the residences of the Messrs. Rawson, which the tourist must now pursue on his road to Keswick by Sty Head, the Screes are occasionally in view, from whence the Great Gable is seen q 3 58 AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK BY HARDKNOTT, &C. in the vista formed by Middle Fell, Yewbarrow, and Kirkfell on the left, and on the right by Lingmell and the north end of the Screes. As you advance toward the head of the lake the pastoral valley of Bowderdale is on the left, stretching up to- wards the Haycocks. From hence Scawfell is a commanding object, and the Pikes begin to shew their separation by the gra- dual development of the aperture of Mickle Door, which divides their summits. From Wastdale Head, a sequestered hamlet, with a chapel,* but no inn,f you commence a precipitous ascent to Sty Head, the highest Pass in the district, having the huge rocks of Great Gable on the left, and those of Lingmell Crag on the right ; in front, Great End. Lingmell Crag is succeeded by Broad Crag, and the Pikes tower majestically over the whole. From Sty Head the road descends by a horse-track through Seathwaite and Borrowdale to Keswick, a distance of twelve miles. At Seathwaite, three miles and a half from Sty Head, the tourist, should he require refreshment, will meet with good and homely fare at Mrs. Dixon's hospitable board. The objects on this road will be more particularly noticed hereafter, in the walk to Sty Head from Keswick. From Sty Head the road to Amble- side is either by leaving Sprinkling Tarn on the left and Angle Tarn on the right hand, and proceeding through Langdale ; or, through Borrowdale and Stonethwaite, thence over Greenup through Eskdale and Grasmere. From the hamlet of Wastdale Head there is a rough foot- road through the valley of Mosedale, which stretches west- ward between the mountains of Kirkfell and Yewbarrow, into Gillerthwaite at the head of Ennerdale Dale, and thence by the Pass of Scarp-gap to Gatesgarth at the head of Buttermere. Having gained the head of Mosedale the road crosses a hollow on the right between Kirkfell and the Pillar, and descends ra- pidly with the stream on the right into Gillerthwaite, which is * This chapel is perhaps the humblest specimen of ecclesiastical ar- chitecture in the kingdom. The edifice contains eight pews, and is lighted with three small windows — one at the eastern end and one on each side of the building. Beside these, the Clergyman has the advan- tage of a sky-light immediately over the pulpit ! f Tourists can be accommodated with refreshments at Ritson's. ■ clean and comfortable farm-house. KESWICK. 59 closed in at the head by Kirkfell and Great Gable. On the op- posite side of the valley, High Stile and Red Pike separate it from Buttermere. The small stream called the Liza is crossed at the sheep-fold and must be followed downwards for a short space, where an indistinct path over a second hollow, between the Haystacks and High Crag, called Scarf Gap, must be pursued, which brings the traveller to Gatesgarth, at the head of Butter- mere. This route from the Strands to Buttermere, comprises a great variety of scenery, and is perhaps one of the finest moun- tain walks in the district. As the path is ill-marked in many places, it would be prudent to take a guide. In the Autumn of 1842 an inexperienced tourist undertook this route, and started from Wastdale Head without a guide. After wandering about for some time, he missed the road, and, instead of getting into Buttermere by the Pass of Scarf Gap, he took the deep ravine between Kirkfell and the Gable, and arrived (without finding out his mistake) at the precise point from which he had started, having made a circuit of many miles ! It may be observed that the ascent of Scawfell may be made with less exertion and fatigue from the Strands than from any other Station. A boat may be taken to the head of the lake, where the ascent commences at once upon Lingmell, and, with a guide to point out the way, the distance to the summit is about three miles, and may be accomplished in an hour and a half by active pedestrians. A remarkable gill, called Peasgill, situate on the north-west side of Lingmell, might be visited in the descent. The ascent of Scawfell from Borrowdale will be hereafter more fully noticed in the Keswick Excursions. KESWICK. Keswick is a small market-town of neat appearance, delight- fully situated near the foot of Derwentwater. Tourists gene- rally make Keswick their head-quarters for a time, and are here provided with good accommodation and the requisites for their excursions. The principal manufactures of Keswick consist of black-lead pencils, coarse woollens, flannels, &c. The mineral black-lead (Plumbago) of which pencils are manufactured, is found in the mines of Borrowdale, and although these mines are in the vicinity of Keswick, the pencil-makers are obliged to purchase 60 DERWENT WATER. all their materials at the Company's warehouse in London, whither it is sent from the mines in casks and exposed for sale only on the first Monday in every month. There are in Kes- wick two Museums, illustrating, in addition to many foreign curiosities, the natural history and mineral productions of the surrounding country. At each of these the visitor can purchase geological specimens from the rocks of the neighbourhood. An accurate Model of the Lake District, ingeniously constructed by Mr. Flintoft, is also exhibited here in the summer season, and is well worth a careful examination. A new Church was recently built at the south end of the town by the late John Marshall, Esq., the purchaser of the estates in this vale which belonged to Green- wich Hospital. A Parsonage and School-house have since his decease been added by the family of Mr. Marshall, of Hallsteads. The Church is an elegant structure, delightfully situated on a gentle eminence, from which an extensive panoramic view of the surrounding country may be had. The Parish Church, called Crosthwaite Church, is a mile from the town, in the opposite direction. Inns — Royal Oak and Queens Head. Derwent Water is upwards of three miles in length and a mile and a half in its greatest breadth. It is adorned by several richly-wooded islands, amongst which are Lord's Island, St. Herbert's Island, Vicar's Island, and Ramps Holme- Lord's Island, the largest in the lake, situated perhaps a hundred yards from the shore, under Wallow Crag, was the strong-hold of the powerful family of the Ratcliftes, Earls of Derwent Water, whose possessions, it need hardly be said, were forfeited after the Rebellion of 1715, and transferred to Greenwich Hospital. On St. Herbert's Island are the remains of a Hermitage, said to have been fixed here by St. Herbert, the contemporary and friend of St. Cuthbert, in the seventh century. There is also on this lake a Floating Island, which is generally under water, but it occasionally rises to the surface for a short time, when it again sinks. The cause of this phenomenon has not been very clearly explained. The most probable supposition is, that the mass is buoyed up, being swollen by gas produced by de- composed vegetable matter. On piercing it with a boat-hook, gas (carburetted hydrogen and azote) issues in abundance. The last appearance of this island was in the summer of 184 2. The scenery of Derwent Water is distinguished for its wild sub- limity and magnificence. VALE OF KESWICK. 61 The Vale of Keswick stretches, without winding, nearly North and South, from the head of Derwent Water to the foot of Bassenthwaite Lake. It communicates with Borrowdale on the South ; with the river Greta, and Thirlmere, on the East, with which the traveller has become acquainted on his way from Ambleside ; and with the Vale of Newlands on the West — which last vale he may pass through in going to, or returning from, Buttermere. The best views of Keswick Lake are from Crow Park ; Friar's Crag ; the Stable-field, close by ; the Vicar- age ; and from various points in taking the circuit of the lake. More distant and perhaps fully as interesting views, are from the side of Latrigg, from Ormathwaite, and thence along the road at the foot of Skiddaw towards Bassenthwaite, for about a quar- ter of a mile. There are fine bird's-eye views from the Castle- hill ; from Ashness, on the road to Watendlath ; and by follow- ing the Watendlath stream down towards the cataract of Lodore. This lake also, if the weather be fine, ought to be circumnavi- gated. There are good views along the western side of Bas- senthwaite Lake, and from Armathwaite at its foot ; but the eastern side from the high road has little to recommend it. The traveller from Carlisle, approaching by way of Ireby, has, from the old road on the top of Bassenthwaite-hause, much the most striking view of the Plain and Lake of Bassenthwaite, flanked by Skiddaw, and terminated by Wallow Crag on the south-east of Derwent Lake ; the same road commands an extensive view of Solway Frith and the Scotch Mountains. They who take the circuit of Derwent Lake, may at the same time include Bor- rowdale, going as far as Bowder-stone, or Rosthwaite. Bor- rowdale is also conveniently seen on the way to Wastdale over Sty Head ; or, to Buttermere, b} r Seatoller and Honister Crag ; or, going over the Stake, through Langdale, to Ambleside. Buttermere may be visited by a shorter way through Newlands, but though the descent upon the vale of Buttermere, by this approach, is very striking, as it also is to one entering by the head of the vale, under Honister Crag, yet, after all, the best entrance from Keswick is from the lower part of the vale, over Whinlatter to Scale Hill, where there is a roomy Inn, with very good accommodation. 62 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. BOTANICAL NOTICES NEAR KESWICK. Lepidium Smithii. — Near Lodore. Bartramia arcuata. — do. Thalictrum majus. — do. Silene maritima. — On Derwentwater, between Keswick and Lodore. Circjea alpina. — On the margins of Derwentwater. Mentha rotundifolia. — Between Lodore and Bowder Stone. Geranium phceum. — Keswick. pyrenaicum. — do. Teesdalia nudicaulis. — Aronnd Derwentwater. Cicuta virosa. — About Keswick. Rosa gracilis. — Whinlatter. Viola lutea. — Hills about Keswick. Utricularia intermedia. — Ditch at the foot of Derwentwater. Littorella lacustris — About Derwentwater. Asa rum europceum. — About Keswick. Orchis ustulata. — do. Allium oleraceum. — Borders of Derwentwater. JuKCUsjiUformis. — Foot of do. Convallaria multiflora. — Castlehead Wood, near Keswick. lExmmcm* from lir$unrfc. CASTLE HEAD. Castle Head, or Castlet, as it is called by the inhabitants, is considered the best Station in the neighbourhood (of easy ac- cess) for a bird's-eye view of the lake and surrounding moun- tains, and has consequently been selected for our Diagram. [See Plate No. 2.] Castle Head is approached by a good foot- path, which strikes out of the Borrowdale road half a mile from Keswick, and leads by a winding ascent to the summit of the hill. FRIAR'S CRAG Is a rocky promontory which stretches out into the lake about one mile from Keswick, and, being the favourite promenade of the residents, is readily pointed out to strangers. From this Station nearly the whole circumference of the lake is viewed. After much rain the waters of Lodore may not only be seen but heard from Friar's Crag, and in the stillness of night the roar of this, combined with the murmur of other distant cataracts, is both solemn and soothing:. EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 63 General AQUATIC EXCURSION on DERWENT WATER. \ Walk from Keswick to the Strand ... i Friar's Crag \ Lord's Island J Stable Hills \ Broom Hill J Barrow Landing Place , I Floating Island Parties navigating the lake for the purpose of seeing its beau- ties, would do well to instruct the boatman to follow the direc- tions pointed out in the above Table. I Month of the river ... . .. 3£ \ 1£ St. Herbert's Island 4| 1 | Water End Bay, with a u little walking .. 5i n 1+ Derwent Isle... ... 6J H ^ Strand's Piers .. 7 2* £ Keswick ... n H I Return to Grange 4£ Portinscale II Keswick 6 12 To BORROWDALE and round DERWENT WATER. 2 Barrow-house and Cascade 2 1 Lodore* Waterfall ... 3 1 Grange 4 1 Bowder Stone 5 The scenes observable on this Excursion are viewed to the greatest advantage by commencing on the eastern, or Borrow- dale road, having on the left Castle Head, and the broad fronts of Wallow Crag and Falcon Crag. A deep cleft in the face of Wallow Crag is visible from the road, which bears the name of the Lady's Rake, from the circumstance, it is said, of the Countess of Derwentwater having made her escape up this ravine when intelligence of her husband's arrest reached her. Two miles from Keswick is Barrow House, the seat of Joseph Pocklington Senhouse, Esq. It is surrounded by fine old trees, and has within the grounds a pretty cascade, which may be seen on ap- plication at the lodge. A mile more will bring the traveller to the celebrated" Fall of Lodore, which lies immediately at the back of the premises belonging to the inn. After incessant jains this Waterfall, with its accompaniments, is a noble object, but unfortunately for those who visit the Lakes, not one in a hundred sees it at such a time. The stream falls through a chasm between the two towering perpendicular rocks of Gowdar Crag upon the left, and Shepherd *s Crag upon the right. These cliffs are most beautifully enriched with oak, ash, and birch trees, which fantastically impend from rocks where vegetation would seem almost impossible. The height of the fall is about 150 feet. Dr. Southey, the late Poet Laureate, has noticed this interesting spot in the following lines : — 64 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. How does the water come down at Lodore? Here it comes sparkling, And there it lies darkling ; Here smoking and frothing, Its tumult and wrath in. It hastens along, conflictingly strong, Now striking and raging, as if a war waging, In caverns and rocks among. liising and leaping, Sinking and creeping, Swelling and flinging, Showering and springing, Eddying and whisking, Spouting and frisking, Turning and twisting Around and around, Collecting, disjecting, With endless rebound, Smiting and fighting, A sight to delight in, Confounding, astounding, Dizzying and deafening the ear with its sound. Receding and speeding, And shocking and rocking, And darting and parting, And threading and spreading, And whizzing and hissing, And dripping and skipping, And whitening and brighteni And quivering and shivering, And hitting and splitting, And shining and twining, And rattling and battling. And shaking and quaking, And pouring and roaring, And waving and raving, And tossing and crossing. And flowing and glowing, And running and stunning. And hurrying and skurrying. And glitttering and flittering, And gathering and feathering. And dinning and spinning, And foaming and roaming, And dropping and hopping, And working and jerking. EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 65 And guggling and struggling, And heaving and cleaving, And thundering and floundering. And falling and brawling and sprawling, And driving and riving and striving, And sprinkling and twinkling and wrinkling, And sounding and bounding and rounding. And bubbling and troubling and doubling, Dividing and gliding and sliding, And grumbling and mumbling and tumbling, And clattering and battering and shattering, And gleaming and streaming and steaming and beaming, And rushing and flushing and gushing and brushing, And flapping and sapping and clapping and slapping, And curling and whirling and purling and twirling, Retreating and meeting and beating and sheeting, Delaying and straying and playing and spraying, Advancing and prancing and glancing and dancing, Recoiling, turmoiling, and boiling and toiling, And thumping and bumping and jumping and plumping, And dashing and flashing and splashing and clashing, And so never ending, but always descending, Sounds and motions for ever and ever are blending, All at once and all o'er, with a mighty uproar — Arid this way the water comes down at Lodore. At Lodore, in still weather, an extremely fine echo is to be heard ; and a cannon is kept at the Inn to be discharged for the gratification of strangers. A mile from Lodore is the vill- age of Grange, where there is a bridge that crosses the Derwent. Should the Tourist wish to see Bowder Stone, the road into Borrowdale must be kept for one mile further. This Stone is of prodigious bulk, and lies like a ship upon its keel. It is 62 feet long and 36 feet high ; its circumference is 84 feet, and it weighs about 1771 tons. Mr. Houseman thinks that ** this massive body has, in some former age, probably by some great convulsion of nature, been detached from the rock above," and other writers agree with him in this conjecture. " That it should stop in this position after the violence of its motion in its descent from the mountain, is surprising, and to place it in its present position, or even to move it by any power of art, seems utterly impossible." From this point a fine view of the upper part of Borrowdale is obtained, with the village of Rosthwaite and Castle Crag on the right, Eagle Crag and Glaramara in 66 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. front, and Scawfell Pikes in the extreme distance. Returning to Grange-bridge, cross it, and pass through the village of Grange to the hamlet of Manesty, near which place is a medicinal spring. Proceeding at a considerable height along the open side of Cat Bells, which commands one of the best views of the lake and valley, and soon crossing the broad open- ing of Newlands, the road enters the village of Portinscale, from which place it is one mile and a half to Keswick. WATENDLATH. 11 Watendlath 5 2 Bosthwaite 7 6 Keswick, by Bowder Stone and Lodore 13 2 Over Barrow Common ... 2 £ Ashness Bridge 2\ 1| Wooden Bridge between High Lodore and Wa- tendlath 3J The valley of Watendlath is interesting for its seclusion and and loneliness, and the primitive character of its inhabitants. It runs parallel with the Vale of Borrowdale on the east, and is not easily accessible except on foot or horseback. The stream which forms the Waterfall of Lodore issues from a beautiful little circular lake situated in this upland valley. The road thither from Keswick turns from the road to Borrowdale beyond Wallow Crag, and passes just behind Barrow House. A pretty rustic bridge crosses the stream where it issues from the tarn, and leads over the Borowdalc fells to Rosthwaite, a little above Bowder Stone. " This is a very pleasant morning's ride from Keswick ; it may be varied on foot by turning to the left instead of the right at Watendlath, and crossing the Wyth- burn fells to Thirlmere, distant about four miles from Wa- tendlath, over rough, heathery, trackless hills, which, on a fine day, especially when the heath is in blossom, form a wild and delightful walk." From Thirlmere the road to Keswick has been noticed in the direct route from Ambleside to Keswick, p. 52. Watendlath may also be visited on foot by High Lodore. The road turns off at the first house beyond the inn, and is very steep till the stream is gained. A deviation to the left will presently unfold a truly magnificent view of the lake and the Skiddaw range through the deep chasm of the waterfall. From this place it is half a mile to the wooden bridge before alluded to. EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 67 BOTANICAL NOTICE— WATENDLATH. Habenaria albida. — Above Watendlath Tarn. VALE OF ST. JOHN. From Keswick through the secluded Vale of St. John is an interesting excursion of about thirteen miles. A visit to the Druids' Temple may be included in this walk by pursuing the old road to Penrith, which strikes off to the right about a quarter of a mile from the toll-bar. The Circle is a mile and three-quarters from Keswick, and will be found in a field on the right of the road, and just on the crown of the hill, whence there is a commanding view of Saddleback, Skiddaw, Helvellyn, and many of the highest mountains in Cumberland. The stones that form this Temple are forty-eight in number, describing a circle of near a hundred feet in diameter. Most of these stones are a species of granite, and all of them varying in form and size. On the eastern side of this monument there is a small inclosure formed within the circle by ten stones, making an oblong square, seven paces in length and three in width, which recess Mr, Pennant supposes to have been allotted to the priests, a sort of holy place, where they met, separated from the vulgar, to perform their rights and divinations, or to sit in council to determine on controversies, or for the trial of criminals. Within a short distance from Threlkeld, four miles from Keswick, a road branches, off to the right to the Vale of St. John, " a very narrow dell, hemmed in by mountains, through which a small brook makes many meanderings, washing little inclosures of grass-ground which stretch up the rising of the hills. A nearer bridle-road into the vale leaves the Penrith road at the third milestone. In the widest part of the dale you are struck with the appearance of an ancient ruined castle, which seems to stand upon the summit of a little mount, the mountains around forming an amphitheatre. * * * As you draw near, it changes its figure, and proves no other than a shaken massive pile of rocks which stand in the midst of this little vale, disunited from the adjoining mountains, and have so much the real form and re- semblance of a castle, that they bear the name of the Castle h % £8 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. Rocks of St. John."* This is the scene of Sir Walter Scott's Poem of the Bridal of Triermain. The Tourist, after leaving the vale, enters the high road from Ambleside to Keswick four miles and a half from the latter place, which road he must pursue in returning to his inn. KESWICK to STY HEAD. 4 Grange Bridge 4 1 Bowder Stone 5 1 Rosthwaite 6 £ Burthwaite Bridge 6j \ Strand's Bridge 7 \ Seatoller Bridge 1\ \ 'Seathwaite Bridge 8 \ Seathwaite, which is op- posite the Black Lead Mines 8$ 1 Stocklev Bridge 9* If Stv Head Tarn Hi | Sty Head 12 12 Back to Keswick ... This road, as far as Bowder Stone, has already been noticed. A little beyond Bowder Stone, in the gorge of Borrowdale, rises a high and nearly detached rock called Castle Crag, the site of an ancient fortification, supposed to be of Roman origin, and to have been used to guard the Pass and secure the treasures con- tained in the bosom of these mountains. The Saxons, and, after them, the Furness monks, maintained the fort for the same purpose. Ail Borrowdale was given to the monks of Furness, probably by one of the Derwcnt family, and Adam de Dcrw cut- water gave them free ingress and egress through all his lands. The Grange was the place where they laid op their grain and their tithe, and also the salt they made at the Sail Spring, of which works there are still some vet matting below Grange. From the summit of this rock the views are so extensive and pleasing that they ought not to be omitted. t "Beyond the hamlet of Rosthwaite (where there is a small public-house, the last in the valley) six miles from Keswick, the valley divides into two branches, that to the left being called Stonethwaite, and that on the right Seathwaite. Stonetlr is subdivided into two branches, of which the eastern, called Greenup, leads into the fells towards the head of Easedale, and so communicates with Grasmere ; while the Langstreth branch turns south, and communicates with Longdate by the Pas- of the Stake. On entering Stonethwaite, Eagle Crag is a pro- * Hutchinson. f West's Antiquities of Furness EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 69 minent object. Following the valley of Seathwaite, which is the principal vale, we come, two miles from Rosthwaite, to a large substantial farm-house, called Seatoller, near which a rough moun- tain road diverges to the right, and, passing under Honister Crag, descends upon Buttermere. A mile beyond Seatoller the Black-lead (or as it is provincially termed ' Wad ') mine indicates its position, high on the hill-side, by those unsightly heaps of rubbish which always attend mining operations. Under the mine, and rather nearer to Seatoller, a dark spot is seen in the copse-wood, which thus far clothes the hill. These are the celebrated Borrowdale Yews, four in number, besides some smaller ones. Among them one is prominent, which, being in the vigour of its age, and undecayed, ranks among the finest speci- mens of its kind in England.* The Lor ton Yew is larger, and that in Patterdale Church-yard may have equalled or exceeded this in size, but they have lost the mighty limbs and dark um- brageous foliage, contrasting so well with the rich chesnut- coloured trunk, which are here still to be seen in mature perfec- tion. Mr. Wordsworth, after commemorating that of Lorton, continues, Worthier still of note Are those fraternal Four of Borrowdale, Join'd in one solemn and capacious grove ; Huge trunks ! — and each particular trunk a growth Of intertwisted fibres serpentine Up-coiling, and inveterately convolved, — Nor uninform'd with Phantasy, and looks That threaten the profane ; — a pillar 'd shade, Upon whose grassless floor of red-brown hue, By sheddings from the pining umbrage tinged Perennially — beneath whose sable roof Of boughs, as if for festal purpose, deck'd With unrejoicing berries, ghostly Shapes May meet at noontide — Fear and trembling Hope, Silence and Foresight — Death the Skeleton, And Time the Shadow, — there to celebrate, As in a natural temple scatter'd o'er * This tree is seven yards in circumference at the height of four feet from the ground. About five years ago it was shorn of its fine proportions by a heavy storm of wind and snow, which broke off one of its largest branches. h 3 70 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWKCK. With altars undisturb'd of mossy stone, United worship ; or in mute repose To lie, and listen to the mountain-flood Murmuring from Glaramara's* inmost caves. " At the hamlet of Seathwaite, wood and cultivation end. There is no Inn at Seathwaite, but the Tourist will find ample refreshments by calling at Mrs. Dixon's, a private house in the village. The road, now reduced to a horse-track, follows the rapidly-ascending bed of the stream for a mile farther, and then, turning sharp over a little bridge, thrown across that branch of the Grange river which comes down from 1 immediately to mount Sty Head. But Stockley B it is called, will detain our attention for a time, as a perfect minia- ture model of a bridge and waterfall. It is i rch, apparently wedged rather than cemented together, hardly two yards in span, or one in breadth, with no parapet except a slight elevation of the outer J c -h there seems hardly room for a horse to ■ :. thrown over a rocky cleft, ten or tv. i - m , with a small glittering cas pool below ; for the purest spring is not m from taint of moss than the water which descends from this is one of the most perfect bridges, the gradual disappearance of which regretted. f " The height of Sty Head above tl i i, v Mr. Baines f Companion to the Lulus') to be L254 ever, is its height above the sea : its i Bridge probably does not exceed 7j0 or - of the first ascent is a small plain, in which lies a nan of water, called Sty Head Tarn. Beyond it, the road still r \t until turning a sharp point of a rock, with a Wastdale lies in view more than a : * A part of the Borrowdale Fell- thwaite and Langstreth. f The character of Stockley bridge has been lamentably chan _ this description of it was written. The bridge iti wider by two or three feet, and the former sin-nlarlv pictun - pearance of the parapet has been complete! . Auction of an unsightly smooth coping. September EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 71 in front the precipices of the Pikes rise double that height. The grandeur of the scene is enhanced by the suddenness with which it comes into view. On the Wastdale side of the Gable gar- nets abound in the hard flinty slate. Sty Head Tarn is fed by a rill from Sprinkling Tarn, the source of one branch of the Grange river, which lies some hundred feet higher, under the broad front of Great End. Horses may be taken in the ascent of the Pikes to Sprinkling Tarn, or, with care, even to Esk Hause. Passing south of the tarn, we proceed eastward up the hill-side towards Esk Hause, where this route unites with the shorter and more direct one, which follows the water up from Stockley Bridge.' ' The return to Keswick may be varied, by striking over the mountains into the Vale of Langstreth and through Stonethwaite. ASCENT OF SCAWFELL. The last Excursion conducted the Tourist to Sty Head and as far as Esk Hause in the ascent of Scawieil, The present will place him on the summit of the highest mountain in England. The following account of a visit to this lofty eminence is ex- tracted from a letter by a friend of Mr. Wordsworth, and may not be uninteresting. " Having left Rosthwaite in Borrowdale, on a bright morning in the first week of October, we ascended from Seathwaite to the top of the ridge, called Esk Hause, and thence beheld three distinct views ; — on one side, the continuous Vale of Borrowdale, Keswick, and Bassenthwaite, — withSkiddaw, Ilelvellyn, Saddle- back, and numerous other mountains, — and, in the distance, the Solway Frith and the Mountains of Scotland ; — on the other side, and below us, the Langdale Pikes — their own vale below them; — Windermere, — and far beyond Windermere, Ingle- borough in Yorkshire. But how shall I speak of the delicious- ness of the third prospect ! At this time, that was most favour- ed by sunshine and shade. The green Vale of Esk — deep and green, with its glittering serpent stream, lay below us ; and, on we looked to the Mountains near the Sea, — Black Comb pre- eminent, — and, still beyond, to the Sea itself, in dazzling bright- ness. Turning round we saw the Mountains of Wastdale in tumult ; to our right, Great Gable, the loftiest, a distinct, and 72 EXCURSIONS PROM KESWICK. huge form, though the middle of the mountain was, to our eyes, as its base. We had attained the object of this journey ; but our ambition now mounted higher. We saw the summit of Scawfell, appa- rently very near to us ; and we shaped our course towards it ; but, discovering that it could not be reached without first making a considerable descent, we resolved, instead, to aim at another point of the same mountain, called the Pikes, which I have since found has been estimated as higher than the summit bearing the name of Scawfell Head, where the Stone Man is built. The sun had never once been overshadowed by a cloud during the whole of our progress from the centre of Borrowdale. On the summit of the Pike, which we gained after much toil, though Without difficulty, there was not a breath of air to stir even the papers containing our refreshment, as they lay spread out upon a rock. The stillness seemed to be not of this world : — we paused, and kept silence to listen ; and no sound could be heard : the Scawfell Cataracts were voiceless to us ; and there was not an insect to hum in the air. The vales which we had soon from Esk Hause lay yet in view ; and, side by side with Eskdale, we now saw the sister Vale of Donnerdale terminated by the Duddon Sands. But the majesty of the mountains below, and close to us, is not to be conceived. We now beheld the whole mass of Great Gable from its base, — the Den of Wastdale at our feet — a gulph immeasurable : Grasmire and the other moun- tains of Crummock — Ennerdale and its mountains ; and the Sea beyond ! We sat down" to our repast, and gladly would we have tempered our beverage (for there was no spring or well near us) with such a supply of delicious water as we might have procured, had we been on the rival summit of Great Gable: for on its highest point is a small triangular receptacle in the native rock, which, the shepherds say, is never dry.* There we might have slaked our * This natural basin was reported to have been destroyed by the officers employed by Government on the Ordnance Survey, but the writer of this note has the satisfaction to state that when he ascended the Gable, in September, 1842, he found it uninjured, and full of water, although more than half covered by a Stone Man that has been erected on the summit of the mountain. — AVe may observe, once for all, that the term "Man" is provincially applied to the piles of stones erected on the tops of most of the lake hills and mountains. EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 73 thirst plenteously with a pure and celestial liquid, for the cup or basin, it appears, has no other feeder than the dews of heaven, the showers, the vapours, the hoar frost, and the spotless snow. While we were gazing around, " Look," I exclaimed, " at yon ship upon the glittering sea !" " Is it a ship ?" replied our shepherd-guide. " It can be nothing else," interposed my com- panion; "I cannot be mistaken, lam so accustomed to the appear- ance of ships at sea." The Guide dropped the argument ; but, before a minute was gone, he quietly said, " Now look at your ship ; it is changed into a horse." So it was, — a horse with a gallant neck and head. We laughed heartily ; and, I hope, when again inclined to be positive, I may remember the ship and the horse upon the glittering sea ; and the calm confidence, yet submissiveness, of our wise Man of the Mountains, who certainly had more knowledge of clouds than we, whatever might be our knowledge of ships. I know not how long we might have remained on the summit of the Pike, without a thought of moving, had not our Guide warned us that we must not linger ; for a storm was coming. We looked in vain to espy the signs of it. Mountains, vales, and sea w r ere touched with the clear light of the sun. M It is there," said he, pointing to the sea beyond Whitehaven, and there we perceived a light vapour unnoticeable but by a a shepherd accustomed to watch all mountain bodings. We gazed around again, and yet again, unwilling to lose the remem- brance of what lay before us in that lofty solitude ; and then prepared to depart. Meanwhile the air changed to cold, and we saw that tiny vapour swelled into mighty masses of cloud which came boiling over the mountains. Great 'Gable, Hel- vellyn, and Skiddaw were wrapped in storm ; yet Langdale, and the mountains in that quarter, remained all bright in sun- shine. Soon the storm reached us ; we sheltered under a crag ; and, almost as rapidly as it had come, it passed away, and left us free to observe the struggles of gloom and sunshine in other quarters. Langdale now had its share, and the Pikes of Lang- dale were decorated by two splendid rainbows. Skiddaw also had his own rainbows. Before we again reached Esk Hause every cloud had vanished from every summit. I ought to have mentioned, that round the top of Scawfell- Pike not a blade of grass is to be seen. Cushions or tufts of 74 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. moss, parched and brown, appear between the huge blocks and stones that lie in heaps on all sides to a great distance, like skeletons or bones of the earth not needed at the creation, and there left to be covered with never-dying lichens, which clouds and dews nourish ; and adorned with colours of rind and exquisite beauty. Flowers, the most brilliant f< and even gems, scarcely surpass in colouring some of those masses of stone, which no human eye behold*, except the shepherd or traveller be led thither by curiosity : and bo* happen ! For the other eminence is I by the a«! turous stranger; and the shepherd has do inducement toa- Pike in quest of his sheep ; no food being there to tempt them. We certainly were singularly favoured hi the weather j when we were seated on the summit, our conductor, turnim: his eyes thoughtfully round, said, " 1 whole life, 1 WSJ ever, at -ar, so \. the mountains on so calm a day. " | It was the 7th of October.) Afterwards we had a i.Mir of earth heaven commingled : yet without terror. We knew that storm would pass assay— I'm; - prophi assured us. Before we reached Seathwsite in Borrowdale, a few -tars had appeared, and we pursued our way d thwaite, by moonlight. " Scawfell is separated from tl by a deep chasm, called Mickledore, at the bottom of which a nai re, like the roof of a house, slopes into Bskdale on one si nto Wastdale on the other. So far all IS easy ; but the asccn: Scawfell from this point ought not to ; taken witl guide well acquainted with the pn moun- tain. It is encompassed by precipe I w ith i terraces of turf, and slant H stranger might chance to find himself entrapped u where to go backwards or forwards would he equally difficult and dangerous. " If the traveller be bound from the Pik direct and practicable descent may he found by Miekle- dore ; or a tolerably straight course may be shaped from the Pikes either into Wastdale, or, if the traveller be return EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 75 Keswick, back to Sty Head by the western side of the moun- tain, leaving Great End to the right, and keeping farther down the hill -side than would at first seem necessary, to avoid some deep and apparently impassable ravines, which run out from among the crags of Great End. These oblige him to descend below the level of Sty Head. " From Esk Hause, an hour well used will take the walker, in a different direction, to the head of Langdale. The way lies past Angle Tarn, under the northern precipice of Bowfell. The best descent into Langdale is down a steep rugged gulley, called Rosset Gill. The circuit from Keswick to Ambleside by Sty Head, the Pikes, Esk Hause, and Langdale, may be reckoned at thirty miles, and lies throughout among the hnest scenery of the country." BOTANICAL NOTICES. THALICTHUM alpi/ium.— Between Great End Crag and Scawfell Pikes.- Watmm. THALICTBUM mi/tiis.— Black Rockl of Great End. Bilbne acaulig. t Black Rooks of Great End Crags. — Baxifkaga opposiHfolicL S Watsom, Oxykia / 1 iiij'ufinis. Black rocki Bod* Balix herbacea. — Scawfell Pikes. BK1DDAW. Skiddaw is the fourth English mountain in height, being 3022 feet above the level of the sea, and 291 1 above Derwent Water. To the highest point from Keswick it is ni miles, and i- of access that persons may ride to the summit on horseback* The approach to Skiddaw is by the Penrith road for about half a mile, chiefly along the hanks of the Greta to a bridge just be- yond tin* tolld)ar. lla\in<_r crossed the bridge, the road ascends somewhat steeply, and after passing Greta Bank skirts Latrig at a considerable elevation. A little beyond the plantation the tourist will see another road, which he must take, though only tor a tew yards, when he mu^t again turn, just beyond agate on the left, at right angles, by the Bide of a fence to a hollow at the foot of the steepest hill in the ascent. From this place the road rises precipitously for almost a mile by the side of a stone wall, which it crosses about one-third of the way up, and then leaves on the ri°:ht. The ascent then becomes easy over a barren moor, 76 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. called Skiddaw Forest, to the foot of the Low Man, where there is a fine spring of water. Beyond this well, having the first and second summits, or Men, as they are called, on the left, the road ascends easily by a good beaten track to the third Man, which is the highest point that can be seen from the valley, and from this elevated station the whole extent of the vale beneath is i beautifully displayed. After passing the fourth and fifth heap of stones, the traveller will soon place himself upon the highest summit of this mountain. Dcrwent Water cannot be seen from this lofty eminence, being obscured by others of le>s elevation, which hide also the high grounds lying between Wytbburn and Langdale. On the right of the third Man appear Mag- nificent assemblage of mountains, i rn direction is seen that sublime chain extending from Coniston to Ennerdale amongst which Scawfcll stands ])-c-t'ii,ii)cnt, baring on iti left Great End, Hanging Knot, Bow fell, and the fells of Coniston ; and on the right Lingmell I V, Kirkfell, HI Sail, the Pillar, the Steeple, and the Hay Cock, with \ row and part of the Screes through - ; .l. Black Combe maybe descried through an o Kirkfell. To the north of the Ennerdale mountains are tl of Buttermere ; and High Crs \ High Stile, and 1; nobly over Cat Bells, Robinson, and Hindscarth. Still further to the north, rising from the rale <>f Newlands, i< Rawling End, whence, aspiring, are Causey I jlj Crags, Grasmire, and Grisedale Pike, On t dale Pike and Hobcarten Crag Kfl Low Fell, over which, in a clear atmosphere, may be observe. I the northern part of of Man; and perhaps, one day out of a hundred, Ire! be seen. The town and ( , t f v seen over the foot of Bassenthwaite, with Work (fa outlet of the Derwent on its left. Whitehaven is hid from our view, but all the sea coast from St. Bees" Rea .ith to Rockliffe Marsh may be easily traced. Over the northern end of Skiddaw, Carlisle, if the state of vourable, may be plainly seen, and the mountains of Criffell, &c. give a fine finish to the fertile plains of Cumberland. Eastward, Penrith and its Beacon are visible, with [ i n the distance ; and tar away to i\w south-east the broad head ot Ingleborough towers over the Westmorland fells. Saddleback EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 77 here displays its pointed top, and nearly due south is seen the lofty summit of Helvellyn. The estuaries of the Kent and the Leven, separated by a hill called Yewbarrovv, near Grange, are visible through the gap of Dunmail Raise ; and Lancaster Castle may sometimes be seen beyond Gummershow at the foot of Windermere, with the aid of a telescope ; but no part of the lake of Windermere can, as has been frequently stated, be discerned from this point. The descent, for the sake of variety, might be made into the valley of Bassenthwaite, where refreshments may be had at the Castle Inn, near the foot of the lake, whence it is eight miles to Keswick by the eastern, and ten by the western road. BOTANICAL NOTICES. Salix herbacea. — Summit of Skiddaw. Carex rigida. — Skiddaw. Saxifraga aizoides. — Do. stellaris. — Do. Viola luiea. — Do. SADDLEBACK. Saddleback is, in the opinion of some tourists, more worthy of a visit than Skiddaw. " Derwent Water," says Dr. Southey, "as seen from the top of Saddleback, is one of the finest mountain scenes in the country. The tourist who would enjoy it should proceed about six miles along the Penrith road, then take the road which leads to Hesket New Market, and presently ascend by a green shepherds' path which winds up the side of a ravine ; and having gained the top, keep along the summit, leaving Threl- keld Tarn below him on the right, and descend upon the Glen- deraterra, the stream which comes down between Saddleback and Skiddaw, and falls into the Greta about two miles from Kes- wick." The ancient name of this mountain is Blencathra. The modern one of Saddleback has been given to it from the peculi- arity of its formation, as seen from the neighbourhood of Penrith, where it takes something of the shape of a saddle. Its height is 2787 feet. At the base of an enormous perpendicular rock called Tarn Crag, near Linthwaite Pike, is Scales Tarn, a small lake deeply seated among the crags, which, from the peculiarity of its situation, is said to reflect the stars at noon-day. In Bowscale fell, and lying about three miles from Scales Tarn, in a north- i 78 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. easterly direction, is Bowscale Tarn, which sends a tributary to the Caldew. This tarn is the seat of a singular superstition, being supposed by the country people to be inhabited by two immortal fish : — " Both the undying fish that swim In Bowscale Tarn did wait on him ; The pair were servants of his eye In their immortality; They moved about in open sight, To and fro for his delight." — Song at the Feast of Brougham Castle. We are not told in what way the belief originated. GRISEDALE PIKE Rises to the height of 2580 feet above the level of the sea. It is situated to the west of Keswick, above the village of Brai- thwaite, and well deserves a visit. Lovers of wild scenery will find much pleasure in continuing their walk along the ridge which connects Grisedale Pike with Grassmoor, returning by a pleasant morning's walk to Keswick over Causey Pike. BOTANICAL NOTICE. Arbutus Uva- Ursi. — Descent from Grassmoor t<»Crumnu»ck v RIDE from KESWICK to BUTTERMERE, through Rowlands. 11 Portinscale .. l\ \ B:rkriu:g 3 h Swinside n \ Gill Brow 8 | Stair .. 3i | Aikin K* l\ Stoneycroft, right -H | Keskadale 7 | Emerald Bank, left ... .. 5 \\ Newlands Haws J Bridge near Mill Dam ... 5} 1| Inn at Bnttermere .. 10 The road to Newlands is by the village of Portinscale, and thence between Foe Park Woods anil Swinside, to the Three Pvoad Ends. The one on the right leads through Newlands t<> Buttermere. This road skirts the southern flank of Swii and continues winding through the glade in a pleasant manner. At Rawling End (a mountain so called) the scenery is excellent, either looking back in the direction of Skiddaw, across the valley towards Cat Bells, or up the vale of Newlands. A fine branch of EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. /U the vale of Newlands extends from Emerald Bank to Dale Head, guarded on the south by Maiden Moor and High Crag, and on the north by Gold Scalp and Hindscarth. Above Keskadale, the last houses in the valley, the road ascends steeply to Newlands' Haws through the sides of which Great Robinson is advantageously seen. In the descent from the Haws to Buttermere, there are numerous grand and impressive changes, and the road runs at an alarming height above the ravine which separates this from the opposite hill called Whitelees. The chain of mountains develop- ed in the descent of the Haws is the most magnificent in the whole circumference of the valley. The appearance of High Style and of the whole visible horizon from Green Crags to Red Pike is scarcely equalled in Cumberland, (See Plate No. 3. ) The white stream called Sourmilk Gill, issuing from Rleaberry Tarn, or Burtness Tarn, down the rocky steep, forms a beautiful feature in the landscape. The road passes a neat little chapel recently erected by the Rev. Mr. Thomas on the site of a still smaller one, which was said to have been the smallest in Eng- land, and not capable of containing within its walls more than half a dozen households. At a short distance from the chapel stands the Inn where Mary Robinson, the Beauty of Buttermere, was for a number of years the unceasing object of public curiosity. The Lake of Buttermere is one mile and a quarter in length, and little more than half a mile in breadth. Buttermere Moss and Great Robinson bound it on the east ; Hay Stacks, so called from their form, High Crag, High Style, and Red Pike rising to a great height, enclose it on the west ; whilst Fleetwith, with Honister Crag, at the head of the lake, seems to shut out all communication southwards. At the north end, or outlet of the lake, it is separated from Crummock Water by an enclosed and verdant plain beautifully ornamented with woods and hedge rows, over which is seen at some distance, Lowfell, an eminence which separates Lowes Water from Lor ton. Buttermere affords excel- lent sport for the angler. Most persons content themselves with what they can see of Buttermere in one day, but many days might be profitably em- ployed in exploring the beauties of this secluded vale. To such transient visitors it is recommended to see Scale Force, one of the highest waterfalls in the country. The road to this place is by a footpath across the fields, which, from the soft and boggy I 2 80 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. nature of the ground, is anything but agreeable in damp weather; a better arrangement will therefore be, to take a boat at the head of Crummock Water, and proceed to the stream which issues from the fall, where parties are usually landed. From this point it is a mile to the Force, which is one clear fall of 160 feet be- tween two vast perpendicular walls of syenite, beautifully adorned with numerous small trees which have taken root in the fissures of the rock, and are nourished by the spray of the falling waters. On returning to the boat, row direct to Ling Crag, a little rocky promontory at the foot of Melbreak, and from a point two or three hundred yards above this promontory is the best Station for a view of the two lakes of Crummock and Butter- mere, and the surrounding mountains. Crummock Water is bounded on the east by the lofty moun- tain of Whiteside, Grassmoor, and Whitelees ; and Melbreak is the western barrier for a considerable distance. Scale Hill is upwards of three miles from Ling Crag, and, if time should permit, parties may resort thither for refreshment at an excel- lent Inn, and afterwards return to Buttermere. The road recommended in the return to Keswick is by Borrowdale A mile and a half from the Inn at Buttermere, Hassness, the resi- dence of — Benson, Esq., is passed on the right, and half a mile more will bring the Traveller to a farm-house called Gatesgarth. [From this place a mountain road strikes off to the right, be- tween Haystacks and High Crag, to Ennerdale (six miles), by the Pass of Scarf Gap, and is met by another path over Black Sail, on the opposite side of the valley of Gillerthwaite, which descends through the Vale of Mosedale, between Kirkfell and the Pillar to Wastdale Head (six miles). These roads are indicated on the Map. A horse may be taken over these hills in dry wea- ther, but those who can bear walking will find it much pleasanter than riding : indeed much of the road must be passed on foot. Over these mountains it will be prudent totakeaguide. Seep. 58.] From Gatesgarth the road to Borrowdale is by a laborious ascent of nearly three miles to the summit of Buttermere Haws, having the almost perpendicular rock of Honister Crag on the right and Yew Crag on the left hand. In both these stu- pendous rocks are extensive quarries of valuable roofing slate. A very interesting combination of mountains is exhibited from EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 81 he top of the road, which begins to descend rapidly to Seatoller, n Borrowdale, from whence it is a mile and three-quarters to losthwaite, where there is a public- house. From thence, >assing Bowder Stone, Grange (where consult Diagrams* ?/afe 3), and Lodore, it is six miles to Keswick. This Excur- ion may be made (but with some difficulty) in a car. DRIVE to SCALE HILL and BUTTERMERE. $ Braithwaite 2£ 4 Scale Hill 12 $ Summit of Whinlatter ... 5 4 Buttermere 16 Lorton 8 9 Thro' Newlands to Keswick 25 The best approach to Crummock and Buttermere is by Whin- itter and Swinside to Scale Hill, ten miles, or by a more cir- uitous road through the Vale of Lorton, twelve miles. The oad to Scale Hill leaves that to Bassenthwaite at the village of Sraithwaite, where the ascent of Whinlatter commences, and lthough long and tedious, the Traveller is fully compensated 3r his toil by the noble retrospective views of the Vale of Ceswick which are unfolded. (See Diagrams, Plate 4J. ^or two miles past the fourth milestone Grisedale Pike is n the left. A little beyond the sixth milestone, a road ranches off to the left, along Swinside, and is the one fhich persons of taste, whether on foot, on horseback, or even i carriages, should take, on their way to Scale Hill. On first ntering this road the traveller may feel some disappointment, ut, having ascended the hill, he will be charmed with the views f the Vale of Lorton, and the distant prospect even of the Scotch lountains. The more circuitous route through the Vale of Norton turns off from the Cockermouth road at the famous Yew >ee,* and joins the terrace road just mentioned about a mile * " pride of Lorton Vale, Which to this day stands single, in the midst Of its own darkness, as it stood of yore, Not loth to furnish weapons for the bands Of Umfraville or Percy, ere they march'd To Scotland's heaths : or those that crossed the sea, And drew their sounding bows at Azincour ; Perhaps at earlier Crecy, or Poictiers. Of vast circumference, and gloom profound, This solitary tree, a living thing, Produced too slowly ever to decay ; Of form and aspect too magnificent To be destroyed." i 3 H'2 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. and half from Scale Hill. A quarter of a mile beyond the junc- tion of these roads, are two other roads ; that on the left leads to Buttermere ; the other to the Inn at Scale Hill. Scale Hill is well situated for parties wishing to visit Crum- mock Water, Buttermere, Lowes Water, and Ennerdale. Prom Scale Hill a pleasant walk may be taken to an eminence in Mr. Marshall's woods, and another, by crossing the bridge at the foot of the hill, upon which the Inn stands, and turning to the right, after the opposite hill has been ascended a little way, then following the road that leads towards Lorton for about half a mile, looking back upon Crummock Water, &c, between the open- ings of the fences. (See Diagrams, Plate 4). Turn back and make your way to LOWES WATER, A small lake, about a mile in length, situated in a deep secluded valley about two miles from Crummock, and surrounded by the bold mountains of Blake Fell, Low Fell, and Melbreak. The valley is prettily wooded and has an air of pastoral beauty. It is only seen to advantage from the other end, therefore any tra- veller approaching from the foot must look' back upon it on arriving at its head. The following Table will shew the route to be observed in a WALK round LOWES WATER from SCALE HILL. 1 Place or High Water End 3| £ Bottom or Low Water End 4} lj Crabtree Beck 5* 1 Join the road from Scale Hill to the Chapel at the Snrithy Gfc h Scale Hill 7 J Lowes Water Church ... £ 1£ Thence by Kirk Head, Bar Gate, Steel Bank, and High Nook, to Water Teat 2} £ Gill falling from Carling Knott 2| CRUMMOCK WATER AND BUTTERMERE Are no where so impressive as from the bosom of Crummock Water ; and the following Excursion to Buttermere from Scale Hill will be found highly interesting. LAND and WATER EXCURSION from SCALE HILL. 1 Boat House on Crummock 1 £ To Scale Force and back . . . 5 Water 1 1 Join the road -at the head of 1£ Flat Fields at Ranner dale 2} the lake 6 £ Station above Ling Crag ... s| 1 Inn at Buttermere 7 Scale Force and Green's Station at Ling Crag have been noticed at pp. 79-80. EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 83 ENNERDALE WATER Is situated four miles to the south of Lowes Water. It is three- quarters of a mile in breadth, and extends two miles and a half in length. The scenery is wild and romantic, and beyond the head of the lake are seen some of the highest mountains in the country, of which the most conspicuous is the Pillar, rising to the elevation of 2893 feet. Owing to its difficulty of access to Southern Tourists, Ennerdale Water is rarely seen except from a distance. It may be approached from the Inn at Buttermere by Scale Force and Floutern Tarn ; and also from Scale Hill through Mosedale* and by Floutern Tarn, and by several other mountain roads, all terminating at Crosdale, where the best views of the lake are obtained. There is a small public-house — the Boat House — at the foot of Ennerdale Lake, with a comfortable and pleasant sitting room, and accommodation for the night. The following Tables may be useful to the Traveller. WALK from BUTTERMERE to its union with the road from Cros- dale to ENNERDALE WATER. is one of the best view T s of the lake 6 Ennerdale Water 7 2 Scale Force 2 2£ Floutern Tarn 4* 1^ Join the road from Crosdale toEnnerdale Water, where Three roads on foot to CROSDALE, from SCALE HILL, by High Nook. A mile on the high road to Lowes Water High Nook Passage to Crosdale over Blake Fell; Or, to Crosdale, deviating at the top of Elake Fell on the left ; Or, to Crosdale by com- mencing the ascent with the rivulet on the left, at High Nook, and then turning on the right ... £f From Crosdale to Enner- dale Water it is 1 mile ; the finest views are half way ,. 5i From SCALE HILL, on a horse road, to ENNERDALE WATER. 2| Lowes Water End, at the Head of Lowes Water ... 2| J Enter the common %\ If Lampleugh Church 5 \ | Road on the left, beyond the church 6 2\ On this road by High Trees and Fell Dyke to Cros- dale , 8£ $■ Half way to the lake, the best prospect 8£ $ Margin of the lake 9J From Crosdale the Tourist may proceed to Wastdale Head by pursuing the following route, — or he may return to * This name is common to several valleys in the Lake District, behoves Tourists to bear this in mind. It 84 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. Buttermere by the foot-road over Scarf-gap after he has passed through the secluded valley of Gillerthwaite, as the upper part of Ennerdale is called. This road he will find marked upon the Map. Prom CROSDALE, on foot, to the Eastern Side of ENNERDALE WATER, and through Ennerdale and Mosedale to WASTDALE HEAD. 1 Join the lake I Bowness 2 Head of the lake... 1£ Gillerthwaite 1 li o 2$ Foot of the road to Butter- mere over Scarf Gap ... 7 J | Sheep-fold on the river side 8 | From which, with the stream on the left, ascend to the top of Black Sail 8£ 2\ Wastdale Head, through Mosedale 11 TWO DAYS' EXCURSION TO WASTWATER. Wast Water is seen to the greatest advantage on approaching it from the open country by the Strands at its foot, rather than by Sty Head. The latter road enters Wastdale at the head of the lake, and can only be taken on foot or on horseback. The Tourist, therefore, should commence this Excursion by going over Whinlatter to Scale Hill, already noticed, and proceeding by Lowes Water and Lampleugh Cross to Ennerdale Bridge, thence to Calder Bridge, from which place there is only one near road ; and that is by Gosforth to the Strands in Nether Wastdale, near the foot of Wast Water. This road, although in part steep and not very good, may without difficulty be tra- velled over by light carriages ; but there is an excellent carriage road, which makes, however, a circuit of many miles, through Cockermouth, Workington, Whitehaven, and Egremont to Calder Bridge. By leaving Workington on the right, and passing from Cockermouth direct to Whitehaven the distance is shortened two miles. From Scale Hill it is about two miles to Lowes Water ; whence to Lampleugh Cross, where there are two small public houses, four miles ; to Ennerdale Bridge, at the foot of Enner- dale, three miles more ; and from Ennerdale Bridge seven miles to Calder Bridge, where excellent accommodation may be had at two comfortable Inns. The direct road from Ennerdale Bridge to Calder Bridge is over a dreary moor called Coldfell. This road is rendered extremely disagreeable to drive over by EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 85 the number of gates ; so that it would be better to go by Egre- mont, although the distance would be increased four miles. Calder Abbey is one mile from Calder Bridge. Little of this ruin is left, but that little is well worthy of notice. It is situated on the north side of the river Calder, close to the resi- dence of Captain Irwin, and was founded a.d. 1134 by the second Ranulph des Meschines for Cistercian monks, and was dependent on Furness Abbey. From Calder Bridge to Gosforth, three miles ; thence to the Strands public-house, four miles. Circuitous Carriage Road, — This road as far as the famous Lorton Yew-tree, eight miles from Keswick, has been already noticed. From the Yew-tree the turnpike-road must be kept, and after driving through a rich fertile country for four miles, the Traveller will reach Cockermouth, a borough-town sending two members to Par- liament, situate upon the Cocker, where it falls into theDerwent. Hats, coarse woollens, linen, and leather, are manufactured here. The Castle is for the most part in ruins, and belongs to General Wyndham, who occasionally resides there. Market on Monday and Saturday. Inns, Globe, Sun. From Cockermouth to Whitehaven direct, is fourteen miles, and by Workington sixteen miles. On leaving Cockermouth, by turning aside a few steps, a fine view of the river Derwent and the Castle may be had from the bridge. Workington is situated on the south bank of the Derwent, and has a good harbour well secured by a breakwater. In the vicinity of the town are several valuable coal mines, which are principally worked by Henry Curwen, Esq. the lord of the manor. Some of these have lately been destroyed: by the sea breaking in upon them. The streets are irregularly built, but have of late years been much improved by modern erections. Workington Hall stands on a gentle eminence on the east side of the town, and is celebrated as having afforded an asylum to the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots, after her escape from Dunbar Castle. Population, 7226. Whitehaven ranks the second town of importance in Cum- berland. It is situated on a bay, and the harbour has been greatly improved by an elegant and substantial stone pier, said to be the largest in the kingdom. The town is built with great 86 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. regularity, and the streets are spacious. The Castle is the resi- dence of the Earl of Lonsdale, who is lord of the manor and proprietor of the coal mines, which are perhaps the most extra- ordinary in the world. In the William Pit there are 500 acres under the sea, and the distance is two miles and a half from the shaft to the extreme part of the workings. There is a stable also under the sea in this immense pit for forty-five horses. The shaft is one hundred and ten fathoms deep. The coals are princip- ally exported to Ireland, and yield a large revenue to the noble proprietor. Ship building is carried on here to some extent, and the principal manufactures of the town are linen sail-cloth, checks, ginghams, sheetings, thread, twine, cables, &c. From Whitehaven it is six miles to Egremont by way of Hensingham, and seven by St. Bees, " a place distinguished from very early times for its religious and scholastic foundations. ' St. Bees,' say Nicholson and Burn, * had its name from Bega, a holy woman from Ireland, who is said to have founded here, about the year 650, a small monastery, where afterwards a church was built in memory of her. The aforesaid religious house, having been destroyed by the Danes, was restored by William de Meschines, son of Ranulph, and brother of Ranulph de Meschines, first Earl of Cumberland after the conquest ; and made a cell of a prior and six Benedictine monks to the Abbey of St. Mary at York.' After the dissolution of the monasteries, Archbishop Grindal founded a free school at St. Bees, from which the counties of Cumberland and Westmorland have de- rived great benefit ; and recently, under the patronage of the Earl of Lonsdale, a college has been established there for the education of ministers of the English Church. The old Con- ventual Church was repaired under the superintendence of the Rev. Dr. Ainger, the late Head of the College ; and is well worthy of being visited by any strangers who may be led to the neighbourhood of this celebrated spot." This collegiate insti- tution is now in a highly flourishing condition, under the able management of the Rev. R. P. Buddicom. Egremont is a neat little town, with about 1500 inhabitants, situate on the north side of the river Ehen, which flows from Ennerdale lake, seven miles distant. The road is good. The ruins of the Castle stand on an eminence to the west of the town. This fortress is not of very great extent, but bears singular marks of antiquity and strength. EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 87 From Egremont it is five miles of pleasant road to Calder Bridge, to which place the Traveller was conducted by the route from Scale Hill. Should the Tourist prefer the approach to Wast Water by Sty Head, the following is the route. The objects on the road have been described as far as Sty Head at p. 68, and the ascent of this mountain pass from the Strands is also described at p. 58. First Day.— WAST WATER by Borrowdale, a Two Days' Excur- sion on horseback. 12 Sty Head 2 Wastdale Head 1 Head of Wast Water . . . £ Overbeck Bridge 1 Netherbeck Bridge If End of the direct road to Calder Bridge by Har- row Head Second Day. 12 14 15 15* 16* | Crook at the foot of the lake 18J H Strand's public house ... 20 l\ Junction of the Strand's road with the shortest road 21| 2\ Gosforth 24 3 Calder Bridge, where there are two good Inns ... 27 See CALDER ABBEY, a mile from Calder Bridge* and then proceed 7 From Calder Bridge to En- nerdale Bridge 7 H Kirkiand 8£ 1 Koad on the left to Egre- mont and Whitehaven ... 9£ £ Lampleugh Cross (the Cockermomth road is to the left 1 Lampleugh Church ... 5 Scale Hill 11 Keswick over Swinside and Whinlatter 10 11 10 BOTANICAL NOTICES. Arabis petrcea. — Screes, near V* r astwater. Thalictrum ma jus. — Do. PoTENTiLLAyh/ft'costf. — In the Devil's Hedge-gate, Wastdale Screes. Rhodiola rosea. — Wastdale Screes. Saxififraga opjyositifolia. — Do. Gna phalium dioicum. — Do. Round BASSENTHWAITE WATER. 8 Peel Wye* 8 3 Bassenthwaite Sandbed 1 Ouse Bridge 9 5 Keswick 1 Castle Inn ... ... 10 18 18 Before bidding adieu to Keswick, the tour to Bassenthwaite Water should not be omitted. Greta Hall, long the residence of the lamented Dr. Southey, late Poet Laureate, is situated 88 ULLSWATER. on a gentle eminence near the town. The lake of Bassen- thwaite lies four miles north of Derwent Water, is four miles in length, and in some places near a mile in breadth. In commencing this Excursion, proceed to the village of Braithwaite, at the foot of Whinlatter, which the Tourist must leave on the left. Passing through the hamlet of Thorn- thwaite and skirting the base of the rugged mountains of Lord's Seat and Barf, the road undulates pleasantly through wood and glade on the margin of the lake, till it reaches Peel Wyke, where there is a small ale-house. A little beyond Peel Wyke, the road turns off on the right, at the guide-post to Ouse Bridge, which crosses the Derwent, where, and at Armathwaite close by, are the best views, for those who keep the road generally pursued in making the circuit of the lake ; but the pedestrian would be fully recompensed if he were to deviate at the Castle Inn, one mile from Ouse Bridge, and follow the Hesket road for about a mile, and then turn on the right to the top of the Haws, from which is presented a magnificent view of Bassenthwaite and the Vales of Embleton and Isell. The distance from the Castle Inn to Keswick is eight miles ; the road w inds agreeably on the eastern side of the lake. Since the account of Keswick (p. 59) was printed, we have been furnished with the following description of Mr. Flintoff's beautiful Model of the Lake District : — The horizontal and vertical scale of the Model is three inches to a mile ; in length, from Sebergham to Rampside, 51 miles, or 12 feet 9 inches ; breadth, from Shap to Egremont, 37 miles, or 9 feet 3 inches ; circumference, exclusive of sea, 176 miles. The coast is shewn two- fifths of the distance, presenting the Bays of Morecambe, Duddon, and Ravenglass. The inspector has before him the whole chain of moun- tains in the Lake District, in three principal groups — the Scawfell, the Helvellyn, and the Skiddaw group, with their numerous interesting valleys, spotted with sixteen large lakes. On the uplands are seen fifty-two small ones, principally high in the mountain recesses, surrounded by contorted and precipitous rocks. On this Model are marked the towns of Kendal, Ambleside. Ulverston, Bootle, Broughton, Cockermouth, Keswick, Penrith, and Shap. The face of the whole is coloured to nature, with the exception of the churches, which are coloured red. The plantations are raised, and coloured dark green ; the rivers, lakes, and sea, light blue ; roads light brown ; and the houses white, as they usually appear. m i ^ ;f|t§ 11 s 89 ULLSWATER. 8 Moor End ... .. 7 Gowbarrow Park 6 Patter dale 8 15 20 Patter dale to Penrith. 10 Pooley Bridge .T. 10 6 Penrith 16 Ullswater is of an irregular figure, somewhat resembling the letter Z, and composed of three unequal reaches, the middle of which is somewhat longer than the northern one. The shortest is seen from the Inn at Patterdale, and is not half the length of either of the others. Ullswater is less than Windermere, but larger than the rest of the English lakes, and lies en- gulphed in the majestic mountains that rise sublimely from the valley. From Keswick there are several roads by which Ullswater may be approached. 1st. By a bridle-road that turns off from the Penrith road at the third milestone, and crosses the Vale of St. John near its foot, then enters the Vale of Wanthwaite, and, after passing through Matterdale, unites at Dockray with 2nd. A good carriage-road that leaves the Penrith road a little beyond the twelfth milestone from Keswick, and skirts the base of a bleak uninteresting mountain called Mell Fell, which the Traveller has on his left hand till he reaches the hamlet of Matter- dale End, where the road turns sharply to the left to Dockray, before mentioned. From Dockray the Traveller will descend upon Gowbarrow Park, and is thus brought at once upon a magnificent view of the higher reaches of the lake. (See Diagrams, Plate 5). Ara-force thunders down the ghyll on the left at a small distance from the road. At the foot of the hill, and before proceeding to Patterdale, turn in at the gate on the left to Lyulph's Tower, where a guide to the waterfall is always to be had, 3rd. Ullswater may be approached by proceeding direct to Pooley Bridge at the foot of the lake, where the angler would find much diversion both in the lake and in the neighbouring streams. (See Diagrams, Plate 3J. Pooley Bridge is also favourably situated for visiting Hawes Water, ten miles, and Lowther Castle, four miles ; and the town of Penrith, to be hereafter noticed, is only six miles distant. 90 ULLSWATER. Beside the approaches to Ullswater, just mentioned, a stout pedestrian might proceed to Patterdale over the northern shoulder of Helvellyn, and visit its summit in his progress, if thought desirable. — In this route, the road to Ambleside must be kept for four miles and three-quarters, whence the road from Wyth- burn to Threlkeld must be pursued for a short distance to a farm- house called Stainah. The ascent from Stainah, for a consider- able distance, is by a steep zig-zag path, on the left of one of the mountain streams falling into St. John's Vale. The road at the top of the first steep turns southward, nearly at right angles, and farther on, at another turn on the left, a few land-marks may be observed, which serve as guides into Patterdale by the Green- side lead mines, in the Vale of Glenridding. When at the highest part of the foot-road, the Raise, or Styx, a round-topped hill, is on the right ; and further to the south, with a considerable dip beetween them, is another elevation called Whiteside, from whence, by a narrow ridge, the Tourist may proceed to the summit of Helvellyn. The distance, by this road, if Helvellyn be left out, is much less than by any of the former routes, and the views from it are exceedingly impressive. In this Excur- sion strangers would do well to take a guide. See Ascent of Helvellyn from Patterdale. If Ullswater be approached from Penrith, a mile and a half brings you to the winding Vale of Eamont, and the prospects increase in interest till you reach Patterdale ; but the first four miles along Ullswater by this road are comparatively tame. The following account of Ullswater is from Mr. Wordsworth : — In order to see the lower part of the lake to advantage, it is necessary to go round by Pooley Bridge, and to ride at least three miles along the Westmorland side of the water, towards Martindale. The views, especially if you ascend from the road into the fields, are magnificent ; yet this is only mentioned that the transient visitant may know what exists ; for it would be in- convenient to go in search of them. They who take this course of three or four miles on foot, should have a boat in readiness at the end of the walk, to carry them across to the Cumberland side of the lake, near Old Church, thence to pursue the road upwards to Patterdale. The Church-yard Yew-tree still sur- vives at Old Church, but there are no remains of a Place of Worship, a new Chapel having been erected in a more central ULLS WATER. 91 situation, which Chapel was consecrated by the then Bishop of Carlisle, when on his way to crown Queen Elizabeth, he being the only Prelate who would undertake the office. It may be here mentioned that Bassenthwaite Chapel yet stands in a bay as sequestered as the site of Old Church ; such situations having been chosen in disturbed times to elude marauders. The trunk or body of the Vale of Ulls water need not be fur- ther noticed, as its beauties shew themselves : but the curious Traveller may wish to know something of its tributary streams. At Dalemain, about three miles from Penrith, a stream is crossed called the Dacre, or Dacor, which name it bore as early as the time of the Venerable Bede. This stream does not enter the lake, but joins the Eamont a mile below. It rises in the moorish country about Penruddock, flows down a soft sequestered valley, passing by the ancient mansions of Hutton John and Dacre Castle. The former is pleasantly situated, though of a character somewhat gloomy and monastic, and from some of the fields near Dalemain, Dacre Castle, backed by the jagged summit of Saddleback, with the valley and stream in front, forms a grand picture. . There is no other stream that conducts to any glen or vallej' worthy of being mentioned, till we reach that which leads up to Ara-force, and thence into Matter- dale, before spoken of. Matterdale, though a wild and interest- ing spot, has no peculiar features that would make it worth the stranger's while to go in search of them ; but, in Gowbarrow Park the lover of Nature might linger for hours. Here is a powerful brook, which dashes among rocks through a deep glen, hung on every side with a rich and happy intermixture of native wood ; here are beds of luxuriant fern, aged hawthorns, and hollies decked with honeysuckles ; and fallow-deer glancing and bounding over the lawns and through the thickets. These are the attractions of the retired views, or constitute a foreground for ever- varying pictures of the majestic lake, forced to take a winding course by bold promontories, and environed by moun- tains of sublime form, towering above each other. At the out- let of Gowbarrow Park, we reach a third stream, which flows through a little recess called Glencoin, where lurks a single house, yet visible from the road. Let the artist or leisurely traveller turn aside to it, for the buildings and objects around them are romantic and picturesque. Having passed under the K 2 92 ULLSWATER. steeps of Sty barrow Crag, and the remains of its native woods, at Glenridding Bridge, a fourth stream is crossed, which is con- taminated by the operations of the Greenside lead mines in the mountains above. The opening on the side of Ullswater Vale, down which this stream flows, is adorned with fertile fields, cottages, and natural groves, that agreeably unite with the transverse views of the lake ; and the stream, if followed up after the enclosures are left behind, will lead along bold water-breaks and waterfalls to a silent Tarn in the recesses of Helvellyn. Eagles formerly built in the precipitous rock which forms the western barrier of this desolate spot. These birds used to wheel and hover round the head of the solitary angler. It also derives a melancholy in- terest from the fate of a young man, a stranger, who perished some years ago, by falling down the rocks in his attempt to cross over from Wythburn to Patterdale. His remains were dis- covered by means of a faithful dog that had lingered here for the space of three months, self-supported, and probably retain- ing to the last an attachment to the skeleton of its master.* But to return to the road in the main Vale of Ullswater. — At the head of the lake (being now in Patterdale) we cross a fifth stream, Grisedale Beck : this would conduct along a woody steep, where may be seen some unusually large ancient hollies, up to the level area of the valley of Grisedale ; hence there is a path for foot-travellers, and along which a horse may be led to Grasmere. A sublime combination of mountain forms appears in front while ascending the bed of this valley, and the impres- sion deepens till the path leads almost immediately under the projecting masses of Helvellyn. Having retraced the banks of the stream to Patterdale, and pursued the road up the main Dale, the next considerable stream would, if ascended in the same manner, conduct to Deepdale, the character of which valley may be conjectured from its name. It is terminated by a cove, a craggy and gloomy abyss, with precipitous sides ; a faithful receptacle of the snows that are driven into it by the west wind, from the summit of Fairfield. Lastly, having gone along the western side of Brothers-water and passed Hartshop Hall, a stream soon after issues from a cove richly decorated with native * Vide the Poems of Scott and Wordsworth on the subject. ULLSWATER. 93 wood. This spot is, I believe, never explored by Travellers ; but, from these sjdvan and rocky recesses, whoever looks back on the gleaming surface of Brothers- water, or forward to the pre- cipitous sides and lofty ridges of Dove Crag, &c, will be equally pleased with the grandeur and the wildness of the scenery. Seven Glens or Valleys have been noticed, which branch off from the Cumberland side of the vale. The opposite side has only two streams of any importance, one of which would lead up from the point where it crosses the Kirkstone-road, near the foot of Brothers-water, to the decaying hamlet of Hartshop, re- markable for its cottage architecture, and thence to Hays- water, much frequented by anglers. The other, coming down Martin- dale, enters Ullswater at Sandwyke, opposite to Gowbarrow Park. No persons but such as come to Patterdale merely to pass through it, should fail to walk as far as Blowick, the only enclosed land which on this side borders the higher part of the lake. The axe has here indiscriminately levelled a rich wood of birches and oaks, that divided this favoured spot into a hundred pictures. It has yet its land-locked bays and rocky promontories ; but those beautiful woods are gone, which per- fected its seclusion ; and scenes, that m':ght formerly have been compared to an inexhaustible volume, are now spread before the eye in a single sheet, — magnificent indeed, but seemingly perused in a moment ! From Blowick a narrow track conducts along the craggy side of Place Fell, richly adorned with juniper, and sprinkled over with birches, to the village of Sandwyke, a few straggling houses, that, with the small estates attached to them, occupy an opening opposite to Lyulph's Tower and Gow- barrow Park. In Martindale, the road loses sight of the lake, and leads over a steep hill, bringing you again into view of Ullswater. Its lowest reach, four miles in length, is before you ; and the view terminated by the long ridge of Cross Fell in the distance. Immediately under the eye is a deep-indented bay, with a plot of fertile land, traversed by a small brook, and rendered cheerful by two or three substantial houses of a more ornamented and showy appearance than is usual in those wild spots. K 3 94 EXCURSION ON THE BANKS OF ULLSWATER. We are induced to subjoin an account of a short Excursion on the Banks of UJlswater, made at a time when it is seldom seen but by the inhabitants. As the journal was written for one acquainted with the general features of the country, only those effects and appearances are dwelt upon, which are produced by the changeableness of the atmosphere, or belong to the season when the excursion was made. A.D. 1805. — On the 7th of November, on a damp and gloomy morning, we left Grasmere Vale, intending to pass a few days on the banks of Ullswater. A mild and dry autumn had been unusually favourable to the preservation and beauty of foliage ; and, far advanced as the season was, the trees on the larger Island of Rydal-mere retained a splendour which did not need the heightening of sunshine. We noticed, as we passed, that the line of the grey rocky shore of that island, shaggy with variegated bushes and shrubs, and spotted and striped with purplish brown heath, indistinguishably blending with its image reflected in the still water, produced a curious resemblance, both in form and colour, to a richly-coated catterpillar, as it might appear through a magnifying glass of extraordinary power. The mists gathered as we went along : but, when we reached the top of Kirkstone, we were glad we had not been discouraged by the apprehension of bad weather. Though not able to see a hun- dred yards before us, w T e were more than contented. At such a time, and in such a place, every scattered stone the size of one's head becomes a companion. Near the top of the Pass is the remnant of an old wall, which (magnified, though obscured, by the vapour) might have been taken for a fragment of some monument of ancient grandeur, — yet that same pile of stones we had never before even observed. This situation, it must be allowed, is not favourable to gaiety ; but a pleasing hurry of spirits accompanies the surprise occasioned by objects trans- formed, dilated, or distorted, as they are when seen through such a medium. Many of the fragments of rock on the top and slopes of Kirkstone, and of similar places, are fantastic enough in themselves ; but the full effect of such impressions can only be had in a state of weather when they are not likely to be sought for. It was not till we had descended considerably that the fields of Hartshop were seen, like a lake tinged by the re- EXCURSION ON THE BANKS OF ULLSWATER. 95 flection of sunny clouds : I mistook them for Brothers-water, but, soon after, we saw that lake gleaming faintly with a steelly brightness, — then, as we continued to descend, appeared the brown oaks, and the birches of lively yellow — and the cottages — and the lowly Hall of Hartshop, with its long roof and ancient chimneys. During great part of our way to Patterdale, we had rain, or rather drizzling vapour ; for there was never a drop upon our hair or clothes larger than the smallest pearl upon a lady's ring. The following morning, incessant rain till eleven o'clock, when the sky began to clear, and we walked along the eastern shore of Ulls water towards the farm of Bio wick. The wind blew strong, and drove the clouds forward, on the side of the mountain above our heads : — two storm-stiffened black yew-trees fixed our notice, seen through, or under the edge of, the flying mists, — four or five goats were bounding among the rocks ; — the sheep moved about more quietly, or cowered beneath their sheltering places. This is the only part of the country where goats are now found ;* but this morning, before we had seen these, I was reminded of that picturesque animal by two rams of mountain breed, both with Ammonian horns, and with beards majestic as that which Michael Angelo has given to his statue of Moses. — But to return ; when our path had brought us to that part of the naked common which overlooks the woods and bush-besprinkled fields of Blowick, the lake, clouds, and mists were all in motion to the sound of sweeping winds ; — the church and cottages of Patterdale scarcely visible, or seen only by fits between the shifting vapours. To the northward the scene was less visionary ; — Place Fell steady and bold ; — the whole lake driving onward like a great river — w r aves dancing round the small islands. The house at Blowick was the boundary of our walk ; and we returned, lamenting to see a decaying and un- comfortable dwelling in a place where sublimity and beauty seemed to contend with each other. But these regrets were dispelled by a glance on the woods that clothe the opposite steeps of the lake. How exquisite was the mixture of sober and splendid hues ! The general colouring of the trees was brown — rather that of ripe hazel nuts ; but towards * A.D. 1843, These also have disappeared. 96 EXCURSION ON THE the water, there were yet beds of green, and in the highest parts of the wood, was abundance of yellow foliage, which, gleaming through a vapoury lustre, reminded us of masses of clouds, as you see them gathered together in the west, and touched with the golden light of the setting sun. After dinner we walked up the vale ; I had never had an idea of its extent and width in passing along the public road on the other side. We followed the path that leads from house to house ; two or three times it took us through some of those copses or groves that cover the little hillocks in the middle of the vale, making an intricate and pleasing intermixture of lawn and wood. Our fancies could not resist the temptation ; and we fixed upon a spot for a cottage, which we began to build, and finished as easily as castles are raised in the air. Visited the same spot in the evening. I shall say nothing of the moon-light aspect of the situation which had charmed us so much in the afternoon ; but I wish you had been with us when, in returning to our friend's house, we espied his lady's large white dog lying in the moon-shine upon the round knoll under the old yew-tree in the garden, a romantic image — the dark tree and its dark shadow — and the elegant creature, as fair as a spirit ! The tor- rents murmured softly: the mountains down which they were falling did not, to my sight, furnish a back-ground for this Ossia- nic picture ; but I had a consciousness of the depth of the seclu- sion, and that mountains were embracing us on all sides ; " I saw not, but I felt that they were there." Friday, November 9th. — Rain, as yesterday, till 10 o'clock, when we took a boat to row down the lake. The day improved ; clouds and sunny gleams on the mountains. In the large bay under Place Fell three fishermen were dragging a net, — pictur- esque group beneath the high and bare crags ! A raven was seen aloft ; not hovering like the kite, for that is not the habit of the bird, but passing on with a straight-forward perseverance, and timing the motion of its wings to its own croaking. The waters were agitated ; and the iron tone of the raven's voice, which strikes upon the ear at all times as the more dolorous from its regularity, was in fine keeping with the wild scene before our eyes. This carnivorous bird is a great enemy to the lambs of these solitudes ; I recollect frequently seeing, when a boy, bunches of unfledged ravens suspended from the church-yard BANKS OF ULLSWATEil. 97 gates of H , for which a reward of so much a head was given to the adventurous destroyer. The fishermen drew their net ashore, and hundreds of fish were leaping in their prison. They were all of the kind called skellies, a sort of fresh-water herring, shoals of which may sometimes be seen dimpling or rippling the surface of the lake in calm weather. This species is not found, I believe, in any other of these lakes ; nor, as far as I know, is the chevin, that spiritless fish (though I am loth to call it so, for it was a prime favourite with Isaac Walton), which must fre- quent Ullswater, as I have seen a large shoal passing into the lake from the river Eamont. Htre are no pike, and the char are smaller than those of the other lakes, and of inferior quality ; but the grey trout attains a very large size, sometimes weighing above twenty pounds. This lordly creature seems to know that " retiredness is a piece of majesty ;" for it is scarcely ever caught, or even seen, except when it quits the depths of the lake in the spawning season, and runs up into the streams, where it is too often destroyed in disregard of the law of the land and of nature. Quitted the boat in the bay of Sandwyke, and pursued our way towards Martindale along a pleasant path — at first through a coppice bordering the lake, then through green fields — and came to the village (if village it may be called, for the houses are few and separated from each other), a sequestered spot, shut out from the view of the lake. Crossed the one-arched bridge, be- low the chapel, with its "bare ring of mossy wall," and single yew-tree. At the last house in the dale we were greeted by the master, who was sitting at his door, with a flock of sheep collect- ed round him, for the purpose of smearing them with tar (accord- ing to the custom of the season) for protection against the winter's cold. He invited us to enter, and view a room built by Mr. Hasell for the accommodation of his friends at the annual chase of red deer in his forests at the head of these dales. The room is fitted up in the sportsman's style, with a cup-board for bottles and glasses, strong chairs, and a dining- table ; and orna- mented with the horns of the stags caught at these hunts for a succession of years — the length of the last race each had run being recorded under his spreading antlers. The good woman treated us with oaten cake, new and crisp ; and after this wel- come refreshment and rest, we proceeded on our return to Pat- terdale by a short cut over the mountains. On leaving the 98 EXCURSION ON THE fields of Sandwyke, while ascending by a gentle slope along the valley of Martindale, we had occasion to observe that in thinly- peopled glens of this character the general want of wood gives a peculiar interest to the scattered cottages embowered in syca- more. Towards its head, this valley splits into two parts ; and in one of these (that to the left) there is no house, nor any build- ing to be seen but a cattle-shed on the side of a hill, which is sprinkled over with trees, evidently the remains of an extensive forest. Near the entrance of the other division stands the house where we were entertained, and beyond the enclosures of that farm there are no other. A few old trees remain — relics of the forest ; a little stream hastens, though with serpentine windings, through the uncultivated hollo w T , where many cattle were pas- turing. The cattle of this country are generally white, or light- coloured ; but these were dark brown or black, w r hich heighten- ed the resemblance this scene bears to many parts of the High- lands of Scotland. While we paused to rest on the hill-side, though well contented with the quiet every-day sounds — the lowing of cattle, bleating of sheep, and the very gentle murmuring of the valley stream — we could not but think what a grand effect the music of the bugle-horn would have among these mountains. It is still heard once every year, at the chase I have spoken of ; a day of festivity for the inhabitants of this district, except the poor deer, the most ancient of them all. Our ascent, even to the top, was very easy ; when it was accomplished we had exceedingly fine views, some of the lofty fells being resplendent with sunshine, and others partly shrouded by clouds. Ulls water, bordered by black steeps, was of dazzling brightness ; the plain beyond Penrith smooth and bright, or rather gleamy, as the sea or sea sands. Looked down into Boardale, which, like Sty- barrow, has been named from the w T ild swine that formerly abounded here ; but it has now no sylvan covert, being smooth and bare, a long, narrow, deep, cradle-shaped glen, lying so sheltered that one would be pleased to see it planted by human hands, there being a sufficiency of soil ; and the trees would be sheltered almost like shrubs in a green-house. After having walked some way along the top of the hill, came in view r of Glenridding and the mountains at the head of Grisedale. — Before we began to descend, we turned aside to a small ruin, called at this day the chapel, where it is said the inhabitants of Martin- BANKS OF ULLEWATER. 99 dale and Patterdale were accustomed to assemble for worship. There are now no traces from which you could infer for what use the building had been erected ; the loose stones, and the few that yet continue piled up, resemble those which lie elsewhere on the mountain ; but the shape of the building having been oblong, its remains differ from those of a common sheepfold ; and it has stood east and west. Scarcely did the Druids, when they fled to these fastnesses, perform their rites in any situation more exposed to disturbance from the elements. One cannot pass by without being reminded that the rustic psalmody must have had the ac- companiament of many a wildly -whistling blast ; and what dis- mal storms must have often drowned the voice of the preacher! As we descend, Patterdale opens upon the eye in grand sim- plicity, screened by mountains, and proceeding from two heads, Deepdale and Harfcshop, where lies the little lake of Brother- water, named in old maps Broader-water, and probably rightly so : for Bassenthwaite-mere at this day is familiarly called Broad-water ; but the change in the appellation of this small lake or pool (if it be a corruption) may have been assisted by some melancholy accident similar to what happened about twenty years ago, when two brothers were drowned there, having gone out to take their holiday pleasure upon the ice on a new-year'3 day. A rough and precipitous peat-track brought us down to our friend's house. — Another fine moonlight night ; but a thick fog rising from the neighbouring river, enveloped the rocky and wood-crested knoll on which our fancy-cottage had been erec- ted ; and, under the damp cast upon my feelings, I consoled my- self with moralizing on the folly of hasty decisions in matters of importance, and the necessity of having at least one year's know- ledge of a place before you realise airy suggestions in solid stone. Saturday , November 10th. — At the breakfast- table, tidings reached us of the death of Lord Nelson, and of the victory at Trafalgar. Sequestered as we were from the sympathy of a crowd, we were shocked to hear that the bells had been ringing j oy ously at Penrith to celebrate the triumph . In the rebellion of the year 1745, people fled with their valuables from the open country to Patterdale, as a place of refuge secure from the incursions of strangers. At that time, news such as we had heard might have been long in penetrating so far into the recesses of the 100 EXCURSION ON THE mountains ; but now, as you know, the approach is easy, and the communication, in summer time, almost hourly; nor is this strange, for travellers after pleasure are become not less active, and more numerous than those who formerly left their homes for purposes of gain. The priest on the banks of the remotest stream of Lapland will talk familiarly of Buonaparte's last conquests, and discuss the progress of the French Revolution, having acquired much of his information from adventurers impelled by curiosity alone. The morning was clear and cheerful after a night of sharp frost. At 10 o'clock we took our way on foot towards Pooley Bridge, on the same side of the lake we had coasted in a boat the day before. — Looked backwards to the south from our favou- rite station above Blowick. The dazzling sunbeams striking upon the church and village, while the earth was steaming with exhalations not traceable in other quarters, rendered their forms even more indistinct than the partial and flitting veil of unillu- mined vapour had done two days before. The grass on which we trod, and the trees in every thicket, were dripping with melt- ed hoar-frost. We observed the lemon-coloured leaves of the birches, as the breeze turned them to the sun, sparkle, or rather flashy like diamonds, and the leafless purple twigs were tipped with globes of shining crystal. The day continued delightful, and unclouded to the end. I will not describe the country which we slowly travelled through, nor relate our adventures: and will only add, that on the afternoon of the 13th we returned along the banks of Ullswater by the usual road. The lake lay in deep repose after the agitations of a wet and stormy morning. The trees in Gow barrow Park were in that state when what is gained by the disclosure of their bark and branches compensates, almost, for the loss of foliage, ex- hibiting the variety which characterises the point of time between autumn and winter. The hawthorns were leafless ; their round heads covered with rich green berries, and adorned with arches of green brambles, and eglantines hung with glossy hips ; and the grey trunks of some of the ancient oaks, which in the summer season might have been regarded only for their venerable majesty, now attracted notice by a pretty embellish- ment of green mosses and fern intermixed with russet leaves retained by those slender outstarting twigs which the veteran BANKS OF ULLSWATER. 101 tree would not have tolerated in his strength. The smooth silver branches of the ashes were bare ; most of the alders as green as the Devonshire cottage- myrtle that weathers the snows of Christmas — Will you accept it as some apology for my having dwelt so long on the woodland ornaments of these scenes, that artists speak of the trees on the banks of Ullswater, and especially along the bays of Stybarrow crags, as having a pecu- liar character of picturesque intricacy in their stems and branches, which their rocky stations and the mountain winds have com- bined to give them. At the end of Gow r barrow Park a large herd of deer were either moving slowly or standing still among the fern. I was sorry when a chance-companion, w r ho had joined us by the way, startled them with a whistle, disturbing an image of grave sim- plicity and thoughtful enjoyment ; for I could have fancied that those natives of this wild and beautiful region were partaking with us a sensation of the solemnity of the closing day. The sun had been set some time ; and we could perceive that the light w r as fading away from the coves of Helvellyn, but the lake, under a luminous sky, was more brilliant than before. After tea at Patterdale, set out again : — a fine evening ; the seven stars close to the mountain top ; all the stars seemed brighter than usual. The steeps were reflected in Brothers- water, and above the lake appeared like enormous black perpen- dicular walls. The Kirkstone torrents had been swollen by the rains, and now filled the mountain pass with their roaring, which added greatly to the solemnity of our walk. Behind us, when we had climbed to a great height, we saw one light, very dis- tinct, in the vale, like a large red star — a solitary one in the gloomy region. The cheerfulness of the scene was in the sky above us. Reached home a little before midnight. Thus far Mr. Wordsworth. The following verses, from his Miscellaneous Poems, may be appropriately introduced here : — 102 OB THF PASS 07 RIRK.-TOXE. J. Within the mind afe ^ A deep delight the bosom (hail on as I pass along the fork Of tb< ul hiu, : Where, it?< .i, ire find ige of 1m;v Nor hint of not hii beodj -■• ning oogniiablj Mocki And I. ( >r from | i Hut w here BO 1: r lit. Til. MP ■ N\ rin!. ■ 1 < >n n hlch four tbooi - hare ga/. V«' plo i sparklin- -peal I - Iambi thai Imprisoned 'mi ip ! ^ «• tree*, thai mej * Ball law as, i aa, and fu-lds, All t hat | Wag i rime, — Of life's aneaaj g Playthings that keep the eyes an Ol drow By, dotard '1' art ! o gaiM !- lit iv. 'mid liis own iinvexed do: \ g Bi dwells, tha hie At once all memory of Ton,— Ifbet potent when mists veil tin MistN that distort and magnify : While the eoarse rushes to the I Sigh forth their ancient melodi ODE. — THE TASS OF KIRKSTONE. 103 3. List to those shriller notes!— that march Perchance was on the blast, When through this Height's* inverted arch. Rome's earliest legion passed ! — They saw, adventurously impelled, And older eyes than theirs beheld, This block— and von, whoM Church-like {• ttfl name. Aspiring Roadl that lov'st to hid* Thy daring in a vapoury bourn, Not seldom may the hour return When thou shall be mv Guide : And I "When Hfe II at ■ \vc;ir\ pi And we have panted up the hill Ofdntj with reluctant will Be thankful, ereo though tired and faint, Tor the rich DOl ' -n-traint ; Son That choice larked eouraf Mn ioo] was grateful for delight That H ON a threatening Dl light The scene that opens new '.' Though habitation DOne appear, The - telle man must be there; The shelter that the pea - ie clime in w hieh w I T. Carrock Fell, Cumberland 2110 High Pike, Caldbeck Fells, Cumberland ... 2101 Causey Pike, Cumberland 2030 Black Comb, Cumberland 1919 Lord's Seat, Cumberland 1728 Wansfell, Westmorland 1590 Whinf ell Beacon, near Kendal, Westmorland 1500 Cat Bell, Cumberland 1448 Latrigg, Cumberland 1160 Dent Hill, Cumberland 1110 Loughrigg Fell, Westmorland 1108 Benson Knott, near Kendal, Westmorland ... ... ... 1098 Penrith Beacon, Cumberland 1020 Mell Fell, Cumberland 1000 Kendal Fell, Westmorland 648 Scilly Bank, near Whitehaven, Cumberland 500 MOUNTAIN PASSES. Sty Head, Cumberland ." ... 1250 Haws between Buttermere dale and Newlands, Cumb. 1160 Haws between Buttermere and Borrowdale, Cumb. ... 1100 Dunmail Raise, Cumberland and Westmorland 720 DESCRIPTION SCENERY OF THE LAKES. DESCRIPTION OF THE SCENERY OF THE LAKES. SECTION FIRST. VIEW OF THE COUNTRY AS FORMED BY NATURE. At Lucerne, in Switzerland, is shewn a Model of the Alpine country which encompasses the Lake of the four Cantons. The Spectator ascends a little platform, and sees mountains, lakes, glaciers, rivers, woods, waterfalls, and valleys, with their cot- tages, and every other object contained in them, lying at his feet ; all things being represented in their appropriate colours. It may be easily conceived that this exhibition affords an exqui- site delight to the imagination, tempting it to wander at will from valley to valley, from mountain to mountain, through the deepest recesses of the Alps. But it supplies also a more sub- stantial pleasure ; for the sublime and beautiful region, with all its hidden treasures, and their bearings and relations to each other, is thereby comprehen.ded and understood at once. Something of this kind, without touching upon minute details and individualities which would only confuse and embarrass, will here be attempted, in respect to the Lakes in the North of England, and the vales and mountains enclosing and surrounding them. The delineation, if tolerably executed, will, in some instances, communicate to the traveller, who has already seen the objects, new information ; and will assist in giving to his recollections a more orderly arrangement than his own oppor- tunities of observing may have permitted him to make ; while it will be still more useful to the future traveller, by directing his attention at once to distinctions in things which, without such previous aid, a length of time only could enable him to discover. It is hoped, also, that this Essay may become generally service- m 3 118 VALES DIVERGING FROM able, by leading to habits of more exact and considerate observa- tion than, as far as the writer knows, have hitherto been applied to local scenery. To begin, then, with the main outlines of the country : — I know not how to give the reader a distinct image of these more readily, than by requesting him to place himself with me ; in imagination, upon some given point ; let it be the top of either of the mountains, Great Gable, or Scawfell ; or, rather, let us suppose our station to be a cloud hanging midway between those two mountains, at not more than half a mile's distance from the summit of each, and not many yards above their highest eleva- tion ; we shall then see stretched at our feet a number of valleys, not fewer than eight, diverging from the point on which we are supposed to stand, like spokes from the nave of a wheel. Firsts we note, lying to the south-east, the vale of Langdale,* which will conduct the eye to the long lake of Winandermere, stretching nearly to the sea ; or rather to the sands of the vast bay of Morecambe, serving here for the rim of this imaginary wheel : let us trace it in a direction from the south-east towards the south, and we shall next fix our eyes upon the vale of Coniston, running up likewise from the sea, but not (as all the other valleys do) to the nave of the wheel, and therefore it may be not inaptly re- presented as a broken spoke sticking in the rim. Looking forth again, with an inclination towards the west, we see immediately at our feet the vale of Duddon, in which is no lake, but a copious stream winding among fields, rocks, and mountains, and termi- nating its course in the sands of Duddon. The fourth vale, next to be observed, viz. that of the Esk, is of the same general cha- racter as the last, yet beautifully discriminated from it by pecu- liar features. Its stream passes under the woody steep upon w r hich stands Muncaster Castle, the ancient seat of the Penning- tons, and after forming a short and narrow asstuary enters the sea below the small town of Ravenglass. Next, almost due west, look down into, and along the deep valley of Wastdale, with its little chapel and half a dozen neat dwellings scattered upon a plain of meadow and corn-ground intersected with stone walls * Anciently spelt Langden, and so called by the old inhabitants to this day — dean, from which the latter part of the word is derived, being in many parts of England a name for a valley. A COMMON CENTRE. 119 apparently innumerable, like a large piece of lawless patchwork, or an array of mathematical figures, such as in the ancient schools of geometry might have been sportively and fantastically traced out upon sand. Beyond this little fertile plain lies, within a bed of steep mountains, the long, narrow, stern, and desolate lake of Wastdale ; and, beyond this, a dusky tract of level ground conducts the eye to the Irish Sea. The stream that issues from Wastwater is named the Irt, and falls into the sestuary of the river Esk. Next comes in view Ennerdale, with its lake of bold and somewhat savage shores. Its stream, the Ehen or Enna, flowing through a soft and fertile country, passes the town of Egremont and the ruins of the castle, — then, seeming, like the other rivers, to break through the barrier of sand thrown up by the winds on this tempestuous coast, enters the Irish Sea. The vale of Buttermere, with the lake and village of that name, and Crummock-water, beyond, next present themselves. We will follow the main stream, the Cocker, through the fertile and beau- tiful vale of Lorton, till it is lost in the Derwent, below the noble ruins of Cockermouth Castle. Lastly, Borrowdale, of which the vale of Keswick is only a continuation, stretching due north, brings us to a point nearly opposite to the vale of Winander- mere, with which we began. From this it will appear, that the image of a wheel, thus far exact, is little more than one half complete : but the deficiency on the eastern side may be supplied by the vales of Wythburn, Ulls water, Haweswater, and the vale of Grasmere and Bydal ; none of these, however, run up to the central point between Great Gable and Scawfell. From this, hitherto our central point, let us take a flight of not more than four or five miles eastward to the ridge of Helvellyn, and we shall look down upon Wythburn and St. John's Vale, which are a branch of the vale of Keswick ; upon Ullswater, stretching due east ; and not far beyond to the south-east (though from this point not visible) lie the vale and lake of Haweswater ; and lastly, the vale of Grasmere, Rydal, and Ambleside, brings us back to Winan- dermere, thus completing, though on the eastern side in a some- what irregular manner, the representative figure of the wheel. Such, concisely given, is the general topographical view of the country of the Lakes in the north of England ; and it may be observed that, from the circumference to the centre, that is, from the sea, or plain country, to the mountain stations specified, 120 VALES DIVERGING FROM A COMMON CENTRE. there is — in the several ridges that enclose these vales and divide them from each other, I mean in the forms and surfaces, first of the swelling grounds, next of the hills and rocks, and lastly of the mountains — an ascent of almost regular gradation, from ele- gance and richness, to their highest point of grandeur and sub- limity. It follows, therefore, from this, first, that these rocks, hills, and mountains, must present themselves to view in stages rising above each other, the mountains clustering together to- wards the central point ; and next, that an observer familiar with the several vales must, from their various positions in re- lation to the sun, have had before his eyes every possible embel- lishment of beauty, dignity, and splendour, which light and shadow can bestow upon objects so diversified. For example, in the vale of Winandermere, if the spectator looks for gentle and lovely scenes, his eye is turned towards the south ; if for the grand, towards the north : in the vale of Keswick, which (as hath been said) lies almost due north of this, it is directly the reverse. Hence, when the sun is setting in summer far to the north-west, it is seen, by the spectator from the shores or breast of Winandermere, resting among the summits of the loftiest mountains, some of which will perhaps be half or wholly hidden by clouds, or by the blaze of light which the orb diffuses around it ; and the surface of the lake will reflect before the eye cor- responding colours through every variety of beauty, and through all degrees of splendour. In the vale of Keswick, at the same period, the sun sets over the humbler regions of the landscape, and showers down upon them the radiance which at once veils and glorifies, — sending forth, meanwhile, broad streams of rosy, crimson, purple, or golden light, towards the grand mountains in the south and south-east, which, thus illuminated, with all their projections and cavities, and with an intermixture of solemn shadows, are seen distinctly through a cool and clear atmosphere. Of course, there is as marked a difference between the noontide appearance of these two opposite vales. The bedimming haze that overspreads the south, and the clear atmosphere and deter- mined shadows of the clouds in the north, at the same time of the day, are each seen in these several vales, with a contrast as striking. The reader will easily conceive in what degree the intermediate vales partake of a kindred variety. I do not indeed know any tract of country in which, within so MOUNTAINS. 121 narrow a compass, may be found an equal variety in the influences of light and shadow upon the sublime or beautiful features of landscape ; and it is owing to the combined circumstances to which the reader's attention has been directed. From a point between Great Gable and Scawfell, a shepherd would not require more than an hour to descend into any one of eight of the prin- cipal vales by which he would be surrounded ; and all the others lie (with the exception of Haweswater) at but a small distance. Yet, though clustered together, every valley has its distinct and separate character : in some instances, as if they had been form- ed in studied contrast to each other, and in others with the united pleasing differences and resemblances of a sisterly rival- ship. This concentration of interest gives to the country a decided superiority over the most attractive districts of Scotland and Wales, especially for the pedestrian traveller. In Scotland and Wales are found, undoubtedly, individual scenes, which, in their several kinds, cannot be excelled. But, in Scotland, par- ticularly, what long tracts of desolate country intervene ! so that the traveller, when he reaches a spot deservedly of great cele- brity, would find it difficult to determine how much of his plea- sure is owing to excellence inherent in the landscape itself ; and how much to an instantaneous recovery from an oppression left upon his spirits by the barrenness and desolation through which he has passed. But to proceed with our survey ; and, first, of the Mountains. Their forms are endlessly diversified, sweeping easily or boldly in simple majesty, abrupt and precipitous, or soft and elegant. In magnitude and grandeur they are individually inferior to the most celebrated of those in some other parts of this island ; but, in the combinations which they make, towering above each other, or lifting themselves in ridges like the waves of a tumultuous sea, and in the beauty and variety of their surfaces and colours, they ai«3 surpasseo^y none. The general surface of the mountains is turf, rendered rich and green by the moisture of the climate. Sometimes the turf, as in the neighbourhood of Newlands, is little broken, the whole covering being soft and downy pasturage. In other places, rocks predominate ; the soil is laid bare by torrents and burstings of water from the sides of the mountains in heavy rains ; and not unfrequently their perpendicular sides are seamed by ravines 122 MOUNTAINS. (formed also by rains and torrents), which, meeting in angular points, entrench and scar the surface with numerous figures like the letters W and Y. In the ridge that divides Eskdale from Wastdale, granite is found ; but the mountains are for the most part composed of the stone by mineralogists termed schist, which, as you approach the plain country, gives place to limestone and freestone ; but schist being the substance of the mountains, the predominant colour of their rocky parts is bluish, or hoary grey — the general tint of the lichens with which the bare stone is encrusted. With this blue or grey colour is frequently intermixed a red tinge, proceeding from the iron that interveins the stone and impregnates the soil. The iron is the principle of decomposition in these rocks ; and hence, when they become pulverized, the elementary particles crumbling down, overspread in many places the steep and almost precipitous sides of the mountains with an intermixture of colours, like the compound hues of a dove's neck. When in the h< advancing summer, the fresh green tint of the herbage has some- what faded, it is again revived by the appearance of the fern profusely spread over the same ground : ami, upon this plant, more than upon any thing else, do the changes which the M make in the colouring of the mountains depend. About the first week in October, the rich green, which prevailed thruugh the whole summer, is usually passed away. The brilliant and various colours of the fern are then in harmony with the autumnal uoods ; bright yellow or lemon colour, at the base of the mountains, melting gradually, through orange, to a dark russet brown towards the summits, where the plant, being more exposed to the weather, is in a more advanced state of decay. Neither heath nor furze are generally found upon the sides of these mountains, though in many places they are adorned by those plants, so beautiful when in flower. We may add, that the mountains are of height sufficient to have the surface towards the summit softened by distance, and to imbibe the finest aerial hues. In common also with other mountains, their apparent forms and colours are per- petually changed by the clouds and vapours which rloat round them: the effect indeed of mist or haze, in a country of this charac- ter, is like that of magic. I have seen six or seven ridges rising above each other, all created in a moment by the vapours upon the side of a mountain, which, in its ordinary appearance. WINTER COLOURING. 123 shewed not a projecting point to furnish even a hint for such an operation. I will take this opportunity of observing, that they who have studied the appearances of nature feel that the superiority, in point of visual interest, of mountainous over other countries — is more strikingly displayed in winter than in summer. This, as must be obvious, is partly owing to the forms of the mountains, which, of course, are not affected by the seasons ; but also, in no small degree, to the greater variety that exists in their winter than their summer colouring. This variety is such, and so harmoniously preserved, that it leaves little cause of regret when the splendour of autumn is passed away. The oak coppices, upon the sides of the mountains, retain russet leaves ; the birch stands conspicu- ous with its silver stem and puce-coloured twigs ; the hollies, with green leaves and scarlet berries, have come forth to view from among the deciduous trees, whose summer-foliage had con- cealed them : the ivy is now plentifully apparent upon the stems and boughs of the trees, and upon the steep rocks. In place of the deep summer-green of the herbage and fern, many rich colours play into each other over the surface of the mountains ; turf (the tints of which are interchangeably tawny-green, olive, and brown), beds of withered fern, and grey rocks, being har- moniously blended together. The mosses and lichens are never so fresh and flourishing as in winter, if it be not a season of frost ; and their minute beauties prodigally adorn the foreground. Wherever we turn, we find these productions of nature, to which winter is rather favourable than unkindly, scattered over the walls, banks of earth, rocks, and stones, and upon the trunks of trees, with the intermixture of several species of small fern, now green and fresh ; and, to the observing passenger, their forms and colours are a source of inexhaustible admiration. Add to this the hoar-frost and snow, with all the varieties they create, and which volumes would not be sufficient to describe. I will content myself with one instance of the colouring produced by snow, which may not be uninteresting to painters. It is extract- ed from the memorandum-book of a friend ; and for its accuracy I can speak, having been an eye-witness of the appearance. 4< I observed," says he, " the beautiful effect of the drifted snow upon the mountains, and the perfect tone of colour. From the top of the mountains downwards, a rich olive was produced by the 124 VALES. powdery snow and the grass, w T hich olive was warmed with a little brown, and in this way harmoniously combined, by insen- sible gradations, with the w r hite. The drifting took away the monotony of snow ; and the whole vale of Grasmere, seen from the terrace walk in Easedale, was as varied, perhaps more so, than even in the pomp of autumn. In the distance was Lough - rigg Fell, the basin-waH of the lake : this, from the summit downward, was a rich orange-olive ; then the lake of a bright olive-green, nearly the same tint as the snow-powdered mountain tops and high slopes in Easedale ; and lastly, the church, with its firs, forming the centre of the view. Next to the church came nine distinguishable hills, six of them with woody sides turned towards us, all of them oak copses with their bright red leaves and snow-powdered twigs ; these hills — so variously situated in relation to each other, and to the view in general, so variously powdered, some only enough to give the herbage a rich brown tint, one intensely white and lighting up all the others — were yet so placed, as in the most inobtrusive manner to harmonise by con- trast with a perfect naked, snowless, bleak summit in the far distance." Having spoken of the forms, surface, and colour of the moun- tains, let us descend into the Vales. Though these have been represented under the general image of the spokes of a wheel, they are, for the most part, winding ; the windings of many being abrupt and intricate. And, it may be observed, that, in one circumstance, the general shape of them all has been deter- mined by that primitive conformation through which so many be- came receptacles of lakes. For they are not formed, as are most of the celebrated Welch valleys, by an approximation of the sloping bases of the opposite mountains towards each other, leav- ing little more between than a channel for the passage of a hasty river ; but the bottom of these valleys is mostly a spacious and gently declining area, apparently level as the floor of a temple, or the surface of a lake, and broken in many cases, by rocks and hills, which rise up like islands from the plain. In such of the valleys as may make windings, these level areas open upon the traveller in succession, divided from each other sometimes by a mutual approximation of the hills, leaving only passage for a river, sometimes by correspondent windings, without such ap- proximation ; and sometimes by a bold advance of one mountain LAKES. 125 to that which is opposite it. It may here be observed with pro- priety that the several rocks and hills, which have been describ- ed as rising up like islands from the level area of the vale, have regulated the choice of the inhabitants in the situation of their dwellings. Where none of these are found, and the inclination of the ground is not sufficiently rapid easily to carry off the wa- ters, (as in the higher part of Langdale, for instance,) the houses are not sprinkled over the middle of the vales, but confined to their sides, being placed merely so far up the mountain as to be protected from the floods. But where these rocks and hills have been scattered over the plain of the vale, (as in Grasmere, Don- nerdale, Eskdale, &c.) the beauty they give to the scene is much heightened by a single cottage, or cluster of cottages, that will be almost always found under them, or upon their sides; dryness and shelter having tempted the dalesmen to fix their habitations there. I shall now speak of the Lakes of this country. The form of the lake is most perfect when, like Derwent-water, and some of the smaller lakes, it least resembles that of a river ; — I mean, when being looked at from any given point where the whole may be seen at once, the width of it bears such proportion to the length, that, however the outline may be diversified by far- receding bays, it never assumes the shape of a river, and is con- templated with that placid and quiet feeling which belongs pe- culiarly to the lake — as a body of still water under the influence of no current ; reflecting therefore the clouds, the light, and all the imagery of the sky and surrounding hills ; expressing also and making visible the changes of the atmosphere, and motions of the lightest breeze, and subject to agitation only from the winds, -The visible scene Would enter unawares into his mind With all its solemn imager}', its rocks, Its woods, and that uncertain heaven received Into the bosom of the steady lake ! It must be noticed, as a favourable characteristic of the lakes of this country, that, though several of the largest, such as Winan- dermere, Ullswater, Haweswater, do, when the whole length of them is commanded from an elevated point, lose somewhat of the peculiar form of the lake, and assume the resemblance of a 126 LAKES. magnificent river ; yet, as their shape is winding, (particularly that of Ullswater and Haweswater) when the view of the whole is obstructed by those barriers which determine the windings, and the spectator is confined to one reach, the appropriate feeling is revived ; and one lake may thus in succession present to the eye the essential characteristic of many. But, though the forms of the large lakes have this advantage, it is nevertheless favour- able to the beauty of the country that the largest of them are comparatively small ; and that the same vale generally furnishes a succession of lakes, instead of being filled with one. The vales in North Wales, as hath been observed, are not formed for the re- ception of lakes ; those of Switzerland, Scotland, and this part of the North of England, are so formed ; but, in Switzerland and Scotland, the proportion of diffused water is often too great, as at the lake of Geneva for instance, and in most of the Scotch lakes. No doubt it sounds magnificent and flatters the imag- ination, to hear at a distance, of expanses of water so many leagues in length and miles in width ; and such ample room may be delightful to the fresh-water sailor, scudding with a lively breeze amid the rapidly-shifting scenery. But, who ever travel- led along the banks of Loch-Lomond, variegated as the lower part is by islands, without feeling that a speedier termination of the long vista of blank water would be acceptable ; and without wishing for an interposition of green meadows, trees, and cot- tages, and a sparkling stream to run by his side ? In fact, a notion of grandeur, as connected with magnitude, has seduced persons of taste into a general mistake upon this subject. It is much more desirable, for the purpose of pleasure, that lakes should be numerous, and small or middle-sized, than large, not only for communication by walks and rides, but for variety, and for recurrence of similar appearances. To illustrate this by one instance : how pleasing is it to have a ready and frequent oppor- tunity of watching, at the outlet of a lake, the stream pushing its way among the rocks in lively contrast with the stillness from which it has escaped ; and how amusing to compare its noisy and turbulent motions with the gentle playfulness of the breezes, that may be starting up or wandering here and there over the faintly-rippled surface of the broad water ! I may add, as a general remark, that, in lakes of great width, the shores cannot be distinctly seen at the same time, and therefore contribute LAKES. 127 little to mutual illustration and ornament ; and, if the opposite shores are out of sight of each other, like those of the American and Asiatic lakes, then unfortunately the traveller is reminded of a nobler object ; he has the blankness of a sea-prospect with- out the grandeur and accompanying sense of power. As the comparatively small size of the lakes in the North of England is favourable to the production of variegated landscape, their boundary-line also is for the most part gracefully or boldly indented. That uniformity which prevails in the primitive frame of the lower grounds among all chains or clusters of mountains where large bodies of still water are bedded, is broken by the secondary agents of nature, ever at work to supply the deficiencies of the mould in w r hich things were originally cast. Using the word deficiencies^ I do not speak with reference to those stronger emotions which a region of moun- tains is peculiarly fitted to excite. The bases of those huge barriers may run for a long space in straight lines, and these parallel to each other ; the opposite sides of a profound vale may ascend as exact counterparts, or in mutual reflection, like the billows of a troubled sea ; and the impression be, from its very simplicity, more awful and sublime. Sublimity is the result of Nature's first great dealings with the superficies of the earth ; but the general tendency of her subsequent operations is towards the production of beauty ; by a multiplicity of symme- trical parts uniting in a consistent whole. This is every where exemplified along the margins of these lakes. Masses of rock, that have been precipitated from the heights into the area of waters, lie in some places like stranded ships ; or have acquired the compact structure of jutting piers ; or project in little penin- sulas crested with native wood. The smallest rivulet — one whose silent influx is scarcely noticeable in a season of dry weather — so faint is the dimple made by it on the surface of the smooth lake — will be found to have been not useless in shaping, by its deposits of gravel and soil in time of flood, a curve that would not otherwise have existed. But the more powerful brooks, encroaching upon the level of the lake, have, in course of time, given birth to ample promontories of sweeping outline that contrast boldly with the longitudinal base of the steeps on the opposite shore ; while their flat or gently-sloping surfaces never fail to introduce, into the midst of desolation and n 2 128 LAKES — WATER-FOWL. barrenness, the elements of fertility, even where the habitations of men may not have been raised. These alluvial promontories, however, threaten, in some places, to bisect the waters which they have long adorned ; and, in course of ages, they will cause some of the lakes to dwindle into numerous and insignificant pools ; which, in their turn, will finally be filled up. But, checking these intrusive calculations, let us rather be content with appearances as they are, and pursue in imagination the meandering shores ; whether rugged steeps, admitting of no cultivation, descend into the water, or gently-sloping lawns and woods, or flat and fertile meadows stretch between the margin of the lake and the mountains. Among minuter recommenda- tions, will be noticed, especially along bays exposed to the setting-in of strong winds, the curved rim of fine blue gravel, thrown up in course of time by the waves, half of it perhaps gleaming from under the water, and the corresponding half of a lighter hue ; and in other parts bordering the lake, groves, if I may so call them, of reeds and bulrushes ; or plots of water- lilies lifting up their large target-shaped leaves to the breeze, while the white flower is heaving upon the wave. To these may naturally be added the birds that enliven the waters. Wild ducks in spring-time hatch their young in the islands, and upon reedy shores ; — the sand-piper, flitting along the stony margins, by its restless note attracts the eye to motions as restless : — upon some jutting rock, or at the edge of a smooth meadow, the stately heron may be descried with folded winsrs, that might seem to have caught their delicate hue from the blue waters, by the side of which she watches for her sustenance. In winter, the lakes are sometimes resorted to by wild swans : and in that season habitually by widgeons, goldings, and other aquatic fowl of the smaller species. Let me be allowed the aid of verse to describe the evolutions which these visitants sometimes perform, on a fine day towards the close of winter. Mark how the feather 'd tenants of the flood, With grace of motion that might scarcely seem Inferior to angelical, prolong Their curions pastime ! shaping in mid air (And sometimes with ambitions wing that soars High as the level of the mountain tops,) A circuit ampler than the lake beneath, ISLANDS. 129 Their own domain ; — but ever, while intent On tracing and retracing that large round, Their jubilant activity evolves Hundreds of curves and circlets, to and fro, Upward and downward, progress intricate Yet perplex'd, as if one spirit swayed Their indefatigable flight. — 'Tis done — Ten times, or more, I fancied it had ceased ; But lo ! the vanish'd company again Ascending ; — they approach — I hear their wings Faint, faint, at first, and then an eager sound Past in a moment — and as faint again ! They tempt the sun to sport amid their plumes : They tempt the water or the gleaming ice, To shew them a fair image ; — 'tis themselves, Their own fair forms, upon the glimmering plain, Painted more soft and fair as they descend Almost to touch ;— then up again aloft, Up with a sally and a flash of speed, As if they scorn' d both resting-place and rest ! The Islands, dispersed among these lakes, are neither so numerous nor so beautiful as might be expected from the account that has been given of the manner in which the level areas of the vales are so frequently diversified by rocks, hills, and hillocks, scattered over them ; nor are they ornamented (as are several of the lakes in Scotland and Ireland) by the remains of castles or other places of defence ; nor with the still more interesting ruins of religious edifices. Every one must regret that scarcely a vestige is left of the Oratory, consecrated to the Virgin, which stood upon Chapel-Holm, in Winandermere, and that the Chantry has disappeared, where mass used to be sung, upon St. Herbert's Island, Derwentwater. The islands of the last- mentioned lake are neither fortunately placed nor of pleasing shape ; but if the wood upon them were managed with more taste, they might become interesting features in the landscape. There is a beautiful cluster on Winandermere ; a pair pleasingly contrasted upon Rydal : nor must the solitary green island of Grasmere be forgotten. In the bosom of each of the lakes of Ennerdale and Devock water is a single rock, which, owing to its neighbourhood to the sea, is — " The haunt of cormorants and sea-mew's clang." N 3 1 30 ISLANDS — TARNS. a music well suited to the stern and wild character of the several scenes. It may be worth while here to mention (not as an object of beauty, but of curiosity), that there occasionally appears above the surface of Derwent water, and always in the same place, a considerable tract of spongy ground covered with aquatic plants, which is called the Floating, but with more propriety might be named the Buoyant, Island ; and, on one of the pools near the lake of Esthwaite, may sometimes be seen a mossy Islet, with trees upon it, shifting about before the wind, a lusus naturae frequent on the great rivers of America, and not unknown in other parts of the world. " fas habeas invisere Tiburis arva, Albuneajque lacum, atque umbras terrasque natantes."* This part of the subject may be concluded with observing — that, from the multitude of brooks and torrents that fall into these lakes, and of internal springs by which they are fed, and which circulate through them like veins, they are truly living lakes, "vivilacus;" and are thus discriminated from the stag- nant and sullen pools frequent among mountains that have been formed by volcanoes, and from the shallow meres found in flat and fenny countries. The water is also of crystalline purity ; so that, if it were not for the reflections of the incumbent moun- tains by which it is darkened, a delusion might be felt, by a person resting quietly in a boat on the bosom of Winandermere or Derwentwater, similar to that which Carver so beautifully describes when he was floating alone in the middle of lake Erie or Ontario, and could almost have imagined that his boat was suspended in an element as pure as air, or, rather, that the air and water were one. Having spoken of Lakes, I must not omit to mention, as a kindred feature of this country, those bodies of still water called Tarns. In the economy of nature these are useful, as auxiliars to Lakes ; for if the whole quantity of water which falls upon the mountains in time of storm were poured down upon the plains without the intervention, in some quarters, of such recepta- cles, the habitable grounds would be much more subject than they are to inundation. But, as some of the collateral brooks * See the Catillus and Salia, of Landor. TARNS. 131 spend their fury, finding a free course, toward, and also down the channel of the main stream of the vale, before those that have to pass through the higher tarns and lakes have filled their several basins, a gradual distribution is effected ; and the waters thus reserved, instead of uniting to spread ravage and deformity with those which meet with no such detention, contribute to support, for a length of time, the vigour of many streams without a fresh fall of rain. Tarns are found in some of the vales, and are numerous upon the mountains. A Tarn, in a Vale, implies, for the most part, that the bed of the vale is not happily formed ; that the water of the brooks can neither wholly escape, nor difluse itself over a large area. Accordingly, in such situations, Tarns are often surrounded by an unsightly tract of boggy ground; but this is not always the case, and in the cultivated parts of the country, when the shores of the Tarn are determined, it differs only from the Lake in being smaller, and in belonging mostly to a smaller valley, or circular recess. Of this class of miniature lakes, Loughrigg Tarn, near Grasmere, is the most beautiful example. It has a margin of green firm meadows, of rocks, and rocky woods, a few reeds here, a little company of water-lilies there, with beds of gravel or stone beyond ; a tiny stream issuing neither briskly nor sluggishly out of it ; but its feeding rills, from the shortness of their course, so small as to be scarcely visible. Five or six cottages are reflected in its peace- ful bosom; rocky and barren steeps rise up above the hanging enclosures; and the solemn pikes of Langdale overlook, from a distance, the low cultivated ridge of land that forms the northern boundary of this small, quiet, and fertile domain. The Moun- tain Tarns can only be recommended to the notice of the inqui- sitive traveller who has time to spare. They are difficult of access and naked ; yet some of them are, in their permanent forms, very grand ; and there are accidents of things which would make the meanest of them interesting. At all events, one of these pools is an acceptable sight to the mountain wanderer ; not merely as an incident that diversifies the prospect, but as forming in his mind a centre or conspicuous point, to which ob- jects, otherwise disconnected or insubordinated, may be referred. Some few have a varied outline, with bold heath-clad promon- tories ; and, as they mostly lie at the foot of a steep precipice, the water, where the sun is not shining upon it, appears black and sullen ; and, round the margin, huge stones and masses of 132 TARNS — ^ESTUARIES. rock are scattered ; some defying conjecture as to the means by which they came thither ; and others obviously fallen from on high — the contribution of ages ! A not unpleasing sad- ness is induced by this perplexity, and these images of decay ; while the prospect of a body of pure water unattended with groves and other cheerful rural images by which fresh water is usually accompanied, and unable to give furtherance to the meagre vegetation around it — excites a sense of some repulsive power strongly put forth, and thus deepens the melancholy natural to such scenes. Nor is the feeling of solitude often more forcibly or more solemnly impressed than by the side of one of these mountain pools : though desolate and forbidding, it seems a distinct place to repair to ; yet where the visitants must be rare, and there can be no disturbance. Water-fowl flock hither ; and the lonely Angler may sometimes here be seen ; but the imagination, not content with this scanty allow- ence of society, is tempted to attribute a voluntary power to every change which takes place in such a spot, whether it be the breeze that wanders over the surface of the water, or the splendid lights of evening resting upon it in the midst of awful precipices. * There, sometimes does a leaping fish Send through the tarn a lonely cheer ; The crags repeat the raven's croak In symphony austere : Thither the rainbow comes, the cloud, And mists that spread the flying shroud, And sunbeams, and the sounding blast." It will be observed that this country is bounded on the south and east by the sea, w r hich combines beautifully, from many ele- vated points, with the inland scenery ; and, from the bay of Morecambe, the sloping shores and back-ground of distant moun- tains are seen, composing pictures equally distinguished for amenity and grandeur. But the eestuaries on this coast are in a great measure bare at low water;* and there is no instance of * In fact there is not an instance of a harbour on the Cumberland side of the Solway Frith that is not dry at low water : that of Raven- glass, at the mouth of the Esk, as a natural harbour, is much the best. The Sea appears to have been retiring slowly for ages from this coast. From Whitehaven to St. Bees extends a tract of level ground, about five miles in length, which formerly must have been under salt water. so as to have made an island of the high ground that stretches between it and the Sea. RIVERS — WOODS. 133 the sea running far up among the mountains, and mingling with the lakes, which are such in the strict and usual sense of the word, being of fresh water. Nor have the streams, from the shortness of their course, time to acquire that body of water necessary to confer upon them such majesty. In fact, the most considerable, while they continue in the mountain and lake-coun- try, are rather large brooks than rivers. The water is perfectly pellucid, through which, in many places are seen, to a great depth, their beds of rock, or of blue gravel, which give to the water itself an exquisitely cerulean colour : this is particularly striking in the rivers Derwent and Duddon, which may be com- pared, such and so various are their beauties, to any two rivers of equal length of course in any country. The number of the torrents and smaller brooks is infinite, with their water-falls and water-breaks ; and they need not here be described. I will only observe that, as many, even of the smallest rills, have either found, or made for themselves, recesses in the sides of the moun- tains or in the vales, they have tempted the primitive inhabi- tants to settle near them for shelter ; and hence, cottages so placed, by seeming to withdraw from the eye, are the more endeared to the feelings. The Woods consist chiefly of oak, ash, and birch, and here and there wych-elm, with underwood of hazle, the white and black thorn, and hollies ; in moist places alders and willows abound; and yews among the rocks. Formerly the whole country must have been covered with wood to a great height up the mountains ; where native Scotch firs* must have grown in great profusion, as they do in the northern part of Scotland to this day. But not one of these old inhabitants has existed, per- haps, for some hundreds of years ; the beautiful traces, however, of the universal sylvanf appearance the country formerly had, yet survive in the native coppice-woods that have been protected by inclosures, and also in the forest-trees and hollies, which, * This species of fir is in character much superior to the American which has usurped its place. Where the fir is planted for ornament, let it be by all means of the aboriginal species, which can only be pro- cured from the Scotch nurseries. t A squirrel (so I have heard the old people of Wythburn say) might have gone from their chapel to Keswick without alighting on the ground. 134 WOODS — VEGETABLE ORNAMENTS. though disappearing fast, are yet scattered both over the in- closed and uninclosed parts of the mountains. The same is ex- pressed by the beauty and intricacy with which the fields and coppice-woods are often intermingled ; the plough of the first settlers having followed naturally the veins of richer, dryer, or less stony soil ; and thus it has shaped out an intermixture of wood and lawn, with a grace and wildness which it would have been impossible for the hand of studied art to produce. Other trees have been introduced within these last fifty years, such as beeches, larches, limes, &c, and plantations of firs, seldom with advantage, and often with great injury to the appearance of the country ; but the sycamore (which I believe was brought into this island from Germany, not more than two hundred years ago) has long been the favourite of the cottagers ; and, with the fir, has been chosen to screen their dwellings ; and is sometimes found in the fields whither the winds or the waters may have carried its seeds. The want most felt, however, is that of timber trees. There are few magnificent ones to be found near any of the lakes ; and unless greater care be taken, there will, in a short time, scarcely be left an ancient oak that would repay the cost of felling. The neighbourhood of Rydal, notwithstanding the havock which has been made, is yet nobly distinguished. In the woods of Lovvther, also, is found an almost matchless store of ancient trees, and the majesty and wildness of the native forest. Among the smaller vegetable ornaments must be reckoned the bilberry, a ground plant, never so beautiful as in early spring, when it is seen under bare or budding trees, that im- perfectly intercept the sun-shine, covering the rocky knolls with a pure mantle of fresh verdure, more lively than the herbage of the open fields ; — the broom that spreads luxuriantly along rough pastures, and in the month of June interveins the steep copses with its golden blossoms; and the juniper, a rich ever- green, that thrives in spite of cattle, upon the uninclosed parts of the mountains : the Dutch myrtle diffuses fragrance in moist places ; and there is an endless variety of brilliant flowers in the fields and meadows, which, if the agriculture of the country were more carefully attended to, would disappear. Nor can I omit again to notice the lichens and mosses : their profusion, CLIMATE. 135 beauty, and variety, exceed those of any other country I have seen. It may now be proper to say a few words respecting Climate, and " skiey influences," in which this region, as far as the cha- racter of its landscapes is affected by them, may, upon the whole, be considered fortunate. The country is, indeed, subject to much bad weather, and it has been ascertained that twice as much rain falls here as in many parts of the island ; but the num- ber of black drizzling days, that blot out the face of things, is by no means proportionally great. Nor is a continuance of thick, flagging, damp air, so common as in the west of England and Ireland. The rain here comes down heartily, and is frequently succeeded by clear, bright weather, when every brook is vocal, and every torrent sonorous ; brooks and torrents which are never muddy, even in the heaviest floods, except, after a drought, they happen to be defiled for a short time by waters that have swept along dusty roads, or have broken out into ploughed fields. Days of unsettled weather, with partial showers, are very fre- quent ; but the showers, darkening, or brightening, as they fly from hill to hill, are not less grateful to the eye than finely in- terwoven passages of gay and sad music are touching to the ear. Vapours exhaling from the lakes and meadows after sun-rise, in a hot season, or in moist weather, brooding upon the heights, or descending towards the valleys with inaudible motion, give a visionary character to every thing around them ; and are in themselves so beautiful as to dispose us to enter into the feelings of those simple nations (such as the Laplanders of this day) by whom they are taken for guardian deities of the mountains ; or to sympathise with others who have fancied these delicate appa- ritions to be the spirits of their departed ancestors. Akin to these are fleecy clouds resting upon the hill tops t they are not easily managed in picture, with their accompaniments' of blue sky ; but how glorious are they in nature ! how pregnant with imagination for the poet ! and the height of the Cumbrian moun- tains is sufficient to exhibit daily and hourly instances of those mysterious attachments. Such clouds, cleaving to their stations, or lifting up suddenly their glittering heads from behind rocky barriers, or hurrying out of sight with speed of the sharpest edge — will often tempt an inhabitant to congratulate himself on be- longing to a country of mists and clouds and storms, and make 136 CLIMATE. him think of the blank sky of Egypt, and the cerulean vacancy of Italy, as an unanimated and even a sad spectacle. The at- mosphere, however, as in every country subject to much rain, is frequently unfavourable to landscape, especially when keen winds succeed the rain, which are apt to produce coldness, spottiness, and an unmeaning or repulsive detail in the distance, — a sunless frost, under a canopy of leaden and shapeless clouds, is, as far as it allows things to be seen, equally disagreeable. It has been said that in human life there are moments worth ages. In a more subdued tone of sympathy may we affirm, that in the climate of England there are, for the lover of nature, days which are worth whole months, — I might say — even years. One of these favoured days sometimes occurs in spring-time, when that soft air is breathing over the blossoms and new-born ver- dure, which inspired Buchanan with his beautiful Ode to the First of May ; the air, which, in the luxuriance of his fancy, he likens to that of the golden age, — to that which gives motion to the funereal cypresses on the banks of Lethe ; — to the air which is to salute beatified spirits when expiatory fires shall have con- sumed the earth with all her habitations. But it is in autumn that days of such affecting influence most frequently intervene ; — the atmosphere seems refined, and the sky rendered more crystalline, as the vivifying heat of the year abates ; the lights and shadows are more delicate ; the colouring is richer and more finely harmonized ; and, in this season of stillness, the ear being unoccupied, or only gently excited, the sense of vision becomes more susceptible of its appropriate enjoyments. A resident in a country like this which we are treating of, will agree with me, that the presence of a lake is indispensable to exhibit in perfec- tion the beauty of one of these days ; and he must have expe- rienced, while looking on the unruffled waters, that the imagina- tion, by their aid, is carried into recesses of feeling otherwise impenetrable. The reason of this is, that the heavens are not only brought down into the bosom of the earth, but that the earth is mainly looked at, and thought of, through the medium of a purer element. The happiest time is when the equinoctial gales are departed ; but their fury may probably be called to mind by the sight of a few shattered boughs, whose leaves do not differ in colour from the faded foliage of the stately oaks from which these relics of the storm depend : all else speaks of NIGHT. 137 tranquillity ; — not a breath of air, no restlessness of insects, and not a moving object perceptible — except the clouds gliding in the depths of the lake, or the traveller passing along, an invert- ed image, whose motion seems governed by the quiet of a time, to which its archetype, the living person, is, perhaps, insensible : — or, it may happen, that the figure of one of the larger birds, a raven or a heron, is crossing silently among the reflected clouds, while the voice of the real bird, from the element aloft, gently awakens in the spectator the recollection of appetites and in- stincts, pursuits and occupations, that deform and agitate the world, — yet have no power to prevent nature from putting on an aspect capable of satisfying the most intense cravings for the tranquil, the lovely, and the perfect, to which man, the noblest of her creatures, is subject. Thus far of climate, as influencing the feelings through its effect on the object of sense. We may add, that whatever has been said upon the advantages derived to these scenes from a changeable atmosphere, would apply, perhaps still more forcibly, to their appearance under the varied solemnities of night. Milton, it will be remembered, has given a clouded moon to Paradise itself. In the night-season also, the narrowness of the vales, and comparative smallness of the lakes, are especially adapted to bring surrounding objects home to the eye and to the heart. The stars, taking their stations above the hill-tops, are contemplated from a spot like the Abyssinian recess of Rasselas, with much more touching interest than they are likely to excite when looked at from an open country with ordinary undulations : and it must be obvious, that it is the bays only of large lakes that can present such contrasts of light and shadow as those of smaller dimensions display from every quarter. A deep con- tracted valley, with diffused waters, such a valley and plains, level and wide as those of Chaldaea, are the two extremes in which the beauty of the heavens and their connexion with the earth are most sensibly felt. Nor do the advantages I have been speaking of imply here an exclusion of the aerial effects of distance. These are insured by the height of the mountains, and are found, even in the narrowest vales, where they lengthen in perspective, or act (if the expression may be used) as tele- scopes for the open country. The subject would bear to be enlarged upon ; but I will con- 138 NIGHT. elude this section with a night -scene suggested by the vale of Keswick. The fragment is well known, but it gratifies me to insert it, as the Writer was one of the first who led the way to a worthy admiration of this country. " Now sunk the sun, now twilight sunk, and night Rode in her zenith ; not a passing breeze Sigh'd to the grove, which in the midnight air Stood motionless, and in the peaceful floods Inverted hung : for now the billows slept Along the shore, nor heav'd the deep ; but spread A shining mirror to the moon's pale orb, Which, dim and waning, o'er the shadowy cliffs, The solemn woods, and spiry mountain tops, Her glimmering faintness threw : now every eye, Oppress'd with toil, was drown'd in deep repose, Save that the unseen Shepherd in his watch, Propp'd on his crook, stood listening by the fold, And gaz'd the starry vault, and pendant moon ; Nor voice, nor sound, broke on the deep serene ; But the soft murmur of swift-gushing rills, Forth issuing from the mountain's distant steep, (Unheard till now, and now scarce heard) proclaim'd All things at rest, and imag'd the still voice Of quiet, whispering in the ear of night. "* * Dr. Brown, the author of this fragment, was from his infancy brought up in Cumberland, and should have remembered that the practice of folding sheep by night is unknown among these mountains, and that the image of the Shepherd upon the watch is out of its place, and belongs only to countries with a warmer climate, that are subject to ravages from beasts of prey. It is pleasing to notice a dawn of imaginative feeling in these verses. Tickel, a man of no common genius, chose, for the subject of a Poem, Kensington Gardens, in preference to Derwent, within a mile or two of which he was born. But this was in the reign of Queen Ann, or George the first. Progress must have been made in the interval , though the traces of it, except in the works of Thompson and Dyer, are not very obvious. 139 SECTION SECOND. ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY, AS AFFECTED BY ITS INHABITANTS. Hitherto I have chiefly spoken of the features by which Nature has discriminated this country from others. I will now describe, in general terms, in what manner it is indebted to the hand of man. What I have to notice on this subject will emanate most easily and perspicuously from a description of the ancient and present inhabitants, their occupations, their condition of life, the distribution of landed property among them, and the tenure b} r which it is holden. The reader will suffer me here to recall to his mind the shapes of the valleys, their position with respect to each other, and the forms and substance of the intervening mountains. He will people the valleys with lakes and rivers : the coves and sides of the mountains with pools and torrents ; and will bound half of the circle which we have contemplated, by the sands of the sea, or by the sea itself. He will conceive that, from the point upon which he stood, he looks down upon this scene before the coun- try had been penetrated by any inhabitants : — to vary his sensations, and to break in upon their stillness, he will form to himself an image of the tides visiting and re- visiting the friths, the main sea dashing against the bolder shore, the rivers pursu- ing their course to be lost in the mighty mass of waters. He may see or hear in fancy the winds sweeping over the lakes, or piping with a loud voice among the mountain peaks ; and, lastly, may think of the primeval woods shedding and renewing their leaves with no human eye to notice, or human heart to regret or welcome the change. '* When the first settlers entered this region (says an animated writer) they found it overspread with wood ; forest trees — the fir, the oak, the ash, and the birch, had skirted the fells, tufted the hills, and shaded the valleys, through centuries of silent solitude i the birds and o 2 140 ROMAN AND BRITISH ANTIQUITIES. beasts of prey reigned over the meeker species ; and the bellum inter omnia maintained the balance of nature in the empire of beasts." Such was the state and appearance of this region when the aboriginal colonists of the Celtic tribes were first driven or drawn towards it, and became joint tenants with the wolf, the boar, the wild bull, the red deer, and the leigh, a gigantic species of deer which has been long extinct ; while the inacces- sible crags were occupied by the falcon, the raven, and the eagle. The inner parts were too secluded, and of too little value, to participate much in the benefit of Roman manners ; and though these conquerors encouraged the Britons to the im- provement of their lands in the plain country of Furness and Cumberland, they seem to have had little connexion with the mountains, except for military purposes, or in subservience to the profit they drew from the mines. When the Romans retired from Great Britain, it is well known that these mountain-fastnesses furnished a protection to some unsubdued Britons, long after the more accessible and more fertile districts had been seized by the Saxon or Danish invader. A few, though distinct, traces of Roman forts or camps, as at Ambleside, and upon Dunmallet, and a few circles of rude stones attributed to the Druids,* are the only vestiges that * It is not improbable that these circles were once numerous, and that many of them may yet endure in a perfect state, under no very deep covering of soil. A friend of the Author, while making a trench in a level piece of ground not far from the banks of the Eamont, but in no connection with that river, met with some stones which seemed to him formally arranged ; this excited his curiosity, and, proceeding, he uncovered a perfect circle of stones, from two to three or four feet high, with a sanctum sanctorum, — the whole a complete place of Druidical worship of small dimensions, having the same sort of relation to Stonehenge, Long Meg and her Daughters near the river Eden, and Karl Lofts near Shap (if this last be not Danish), that a rural chapel bears to a stately church, or to one of our noble cathedrals. This in- teresting little monument having passed, with the field in which it was found, into other hands, has been destroyed. It is much to be re- gretted, that the striking relic of antiquity at Shap has been in a great measure destroyed also. The Daughters of Long Meg are placed not in an oblong, as the Stones of Shap, but in a perfect circle, eighty yards in diameter, and Feudal tenantry. 141 remain upon the surface of the country of these ancient occu- pants ; and as the Saxons and Danes, who succeeded to the possession of the villages and hamlets which had been established by the Britons, seem at first to have confined themselves to the open country, — we may descend at once to times long posterior to the conquest by the Normans, when their feudal polity was regularly established. We may easily conceive that these narrow dales and mountain sides, choked up as they must have been with wood, lying out of the way of communication with other parts of the Island, and upon the edge of a hostile kingdom, could have little attraction for the high-born and powerful ; especially as the more open parts of the country furnished posi- tions for castles and houses of defence, sufficient to repel any of those sudden attacks, which, in the then rude state of military knowledge, could be made upon them. Accordingly, the more retired regions (and to such I am now confining myself) must have been neglected or shunned even by the persons whose baronial or signioral rights extended over them, and left, doubt- less, partly as a place of refuge for outlaws and robbers, and partly granted out for the more settled habitation of a few seventy two in number, and from above three yards high, to less than so many feet : a little way out of the circle stands Long Meg herself —a single stone eighteen feet high. When the Author first saw this monument, he came upon it by sur- prise, therefore might over-rate its importance as an object ; but he must say, that though it is not to be compared with Stonehenge, he has not seen any other remains of those dark ages which can pretend to rival it in singularity and dignity of appearance, dp A weight of awe not easy to be borne Fell suddenly upon my spirit, cast From the dread bosom of the unknown past, When first I saw that sisterhood forlorn ;— And Her, whose strength and stature seem to scorn The power of years — pre-eminent, and placed Apart to overlook the circle vast. Speak, Giant-mother ! tell it to the Morn, While she dispels the cumbrous shades of night \ Let the Moon hear, emerging from a cloud, When, how, and wherefore, rose on British ground That wond'rous Monument, whose mystic round . Forth shadows, some have deemed, to mortal sight The inviolable God that tames the proud. o 3 142 FEUDAL TENANTRY* vassals following the employment of shepherds or wocdlanders. Hence these lakes and inner valleys are unadorned by any re- mains of ancient grandeur, castles, or monastic edifices, which are only found upon the skirts of the country, as Furness Abbey, Calder Abbey, the Priory of Lanercost, Gleaston Castle, — long ago a residence of the Flemings, — and the numerous ancient castles of the Cliffords, the Lucys, and the Dacres. On the southern side of these mountains (especially in that part known by the name of Furness Fells, which is more remote from the borders), the state of society would necessarily be more settled ; though it also was fashioned, not a little, by its neighbourhood to a hostile kingdom. We will, therefore, give a sketch of the economy of the Abbots in the distribution of lands among their tenants, as similar plans were doubtless adopted by other Lords, and as the consequences have affected the face of the country materially to the present day, being, in fact, one of the principal causes which give it such a striking superiority, in beauty and interest, over all other parts of the island. " When the Abbots of Furness," says an author before cited, " enfranchised their villains, and raised them to the dignity of customary tenants, the lands, which they had cultivated for their lord, were divided into whole tenements ; each of which, besides the customary annual rent, was charged with the obligation of having in readiness a man completely armed for the king's ser- vice on the borders, or elsewhere ; each of these whole tene- ments was again sub-divided into four equal parts ; each villain had one > and the party-tenant contributed his share to the sup- port of the man of arms, and of other burdens. These divisions were not properly distinguished ; the land remained mixed ; each tenant had a share through all the arable and meadow land, and common of pasture over all the wastes. These sub-tene- ments were judged sufficient for the support of so many families : and no further division was permitted. These divisions and sub-divisions were convenient at the time for which they were calculated : the land so parcelled out was, of necessity, more attended to, and the industry greater, when more persons were to be supported by the produce of it. The frontier of the king- dom, within which Furness was considered, was in a constant state of attack and defence ; more hands, therefore, were necessary to guard the coast, to repel an invasion from Scotland, HABITATIONS. — INCLOSURES. 143 or make reprisals on the hostile neighbour. The dividing the lands in such manner as has been shown, increased the number of inhabitants, and kept them at home till called for : and, the land being mixed, and the several tenants uniting in equipping the plough, the absence of the fourth man was no prejudice to the cultivation of his land, which was committed to the care of three. " While the villains of Low Furness were thus distributed over the land, and employed in agriculture ; those of High Fur- ness were charged with the care of flocks and herds, to protect them from the wolves which lurked in the thickets, and in winter to browze them with the tender sprouts of hollies and ash. This custom was not till lately discontinued in High Furness ; and holly- trees were carefully preserved for that purpose when all other wood was cleared off; large tracts of common being so covered with these trees, as to have the appearance of a forest of hollies. At the shepherd's call, the flocks surrounded the holly-bush, and received the croppings at his hand, which they greedily nibbled up, bleating for more. The Abbots of Furness enfranchised these pastoral vassals, and permitted them to enclose quillets to their houses, for which they paid encroachment rent." — West's Antiquities of Furness. However desirable, for the purposes of defence, a numerous population might be, it was not possible to make at once the same numerous allotments among the untilled valleys, and upon the sides of the mountains, as had been made in the cultivated plains. The enfranchised shepherd, or woodlander, having chosen there his place of residence, builds it of sods, or of the mountain-stone, and, with the permission of his lord, encloses, like Robinson Crusoe, a small croft or two immediately at his door, for such animals as he wishes to protect. Others are happy to imitate his example, and avail themselves of the same privileges ; and thus a population, mainly of Danish or Norse origin, as the dialect indicates, crept on towards the more secluded parts of the valleys. Chapels, daughters of some dis- tant mother church, are first erected in the more open and fer- tile vales, as those of Bowness and Grasmere, offsets from Kendal: which again, after a period, as the settled population increases^ become mother churches to smaller edifices, planted, at length, in almost every dale throughout the country. The inclosures, 144 TENANTRY REDUCED. formed by the tenantry, are for a long time confined to the home-steads ; and the arable and meadow land of the vales is possessed in common field : the several portions being marked out by stones, bushes, or trees ; which portions, where the custom has survived, to this day are called dales , from the word deylen, to distribute ; but, while the valley was thus lying open, inclosures seem to have taken place upon the sides of the mountains ; because the land there was not intermixed, and was of little comparative value ; and, therefore, small opposition would be made to its being appropriated by those to whose habitations it was contiguous. Hence the singular appearance which the sides of many of these mountains exhibit, intersected, as they are, almost to the summit, with stone walls. When first erected, these stone fences must have little disfigured the face of the country ; as part of the lines would every where be hidden by the quantity of native wood then remaining ; and the lines would also be broken (as they still are) by the rocks which interrupt and vary their course. In the meadows, and in those parts of the lower grounds where the soil had not been sufficiently drained, and could not afford a stable foundation, there, when the increasing value of land, and the inconvenience suffered from intermixed plots of ground in common field, had induced each inhabitant to inclose his own, they were compelled to make the fences of alders, willows, and other trees. These, where the native wood has disappeared, have frequently enriched the valleys with a sylvan appearance ; while the intricate inter- mixture of property has given to the fences a graceful irregu- larity, which, where large properties are prevalent, and large capitals employed in agriculture, is unknown. This sylvan ap- pearance is heightened by the number of ash trees planted in rows along the quick-fences, and along the walls, for the purpose ofbrowzing the cattle at the approach of winter. The branches are lopped off and strewn upon the pastures ; and when the cattle have stripped them of their leaves, they are used for repairing the hedges, or for fuel. We have thus seen a numerous body of Dalesmen creeping into possession of their homesteads, their little crofts, their mountain enclosures ; and, finally, the whole vale is visibly di- vided ; except, perhaps, here and there some marshy ground, which, till fully drained, would not repay the trouble of inclos- STATE OF SOCIETY. 145 ing. But these last partitions do not seem to have been general till long after the pacification of the Borders, by the union of the two crowns ; when the cause, which had first determined the distribution of land into such small parcels, had not only ceased, but likewise a general improvement had taken place in the coun- try, with a correspondent rise in the value of its produce. From the time of the union, it is certain that this species of feudal population must rapidly have diminished. That it was formerly much more numerous than it is at present, is evident from the multitude of tenements (I do not mean houses, but small divisions of land) which belonged formerly each to a several proprietor, and for which separate fines are paid to the manorial lords at this day. These are often in the proportion of four to one of the present occupants. " Sir Launcelot Threlkeld, who lived in the reign of Henry VII., was wont to say, he had three noble houses, one for pleasure, Crosby, in Westmorland, where he had a park full of deer ; one for profit and warmth, wherein to reside in winter, namely, Yanwath, nigh Penrith ; and the third, Threl- keld fon the edge of the vale of Keswick), well stocked with tenants to go with him to the wars." But, as I have said, from the union of the two crowns, this numerous vassalage (their ser- vices not being wanted) would rapidly diminish ; various tene- ments would be united in one possessor ; and the aboriginal houses, probably little better than hovels, like the kraals of savages, or the huts of the Highlanders of Scotland, would fall into decay, and the places of many be supplied by substantial and comfortable buildings, a majority of which remain to this day scattered over the valleys, and are often the only dwellings found in them. From the time of the erection of these houses, till within the last sixty years, the state of society, though no doubt slowly and gradually improving, underwent no material change. Corn was grown in these vales (through which no carriage-road had yet been made) sufficient upon each estate to furnish bread for each family, and no more : notwithstanding the union of several tene- ments, the possessions of each inhabitant still being small, in the same field was seen an intermixture of different crops ; and the plough was interrupted by little rocks, mostly overgrown with wood, or by spongy places, which the tillers of the soil had neither leisure nor capital to convert into firm land. The storms and mois- 146 NATIVE FORESTS. ture of the climate induced them to sprinkle their upland property with outhouses of native stone, as places of shelter for their sheep, where, in tempestuous weather, food was distributed to them. Every family spun from its own flock the wool with which it was clothed ; a weaver was here and there found among them ; and the rest of their wants were supplied by the produce of the yarn, which they carded and spun in their own houses, and carried to market, either under their arms, or more frequently on pack-horses, a small train taking their way weekly down the valley, or over the mountains to the most commodious town. They had, as I have said, their rural chapel, and of course their minister, in clothing or in manner of life in no respect differing from themselves, except on the Sabbath-day ; this was the sole distinguished individual among them ; every thing else, person and possession, exhibited a perfect equality, a community of shepherds and agriculturists, proprietors, for the most part, of the lands which they occupied and cultivated. While the process above detailed was going on, the native forest must have been every where receding ; but trees were planted for the sustenance of the flocks in winter, — such was then the rude state of agriculture ; and, for the same cause, it was necessary that care should be taken of some part of the growth of the native woods. Accordingly, in Queen Elizabeth's time, this was so strongly felt, that a petition was made to the Crown, praying, " that the Blomaries in High Furness might be abolished, on account of the quantity of wood which was con- sumed in them for the use of the mines, to the great detriment of the cattle." But this same cause, about a hundred years after, produced effects directly contrary to those which had been de- precated. The re-establishment, at that period, of furnaces upon a large scale, made it the interest of the people to convert the steeper and more stony of the inclosures, sprinkled over with remains of the native forest, into close woods, which, when cat- tle and sheep were excluded, rapidly sowed and thickened them- selves. The reader's attention has been directed to the cause by which tufts of wood, pasturage, meadow, and arable land, with its various produce, are intricately intermingled in the same field ; and he will now see, in like manner, how inclosures en- tirely of wood, and those of cultivated ground, are blended all over the country under a law of similar wildness. COTTAGES. 147 A historic detail has thus been given of the manner in which the hand of man has acted upon the surface of the inner regions of this mountainous country, as incorporated with, and subservient to, the powers and processes of nature. We will now take a view of the same agency — acting, within narrower bounds, for the production of the few works of art and accommodations of life which, in so simple a state of society, could be necessary. These are merely habitations of man and coverts for beasts, roads and bridges, and places of worship. And to begin with the Cottages. They are scattered over the valleys, and under the hills, and on the rocks ; and, even to this day, in the more retired dales, without any intrusion of more assuming buildings : Cluster'd like stars some few, but single most, And lurking dimly in their shy retreats, Or glancing on each other cheerful looks, Like separated stars with clouds between. MS. The dwelling-houses, and contiguous outhouses, are, in many instances, of the colour of the native rock, out of which they have been built ; but, frequently the dwelling or fire-house, as it is ordinarily called, has been distinguished from the barn or byer by rough-cast and whitewash, which, as the inhabitants are not hasty in renewing it, in a few years acquires, by the influence of weather, a tint at once sober and variegated. As these houses have been, from father to son, inhabited by persons engaged in the same occupations, yet necessarily with changes in their cir- cumstances, they have received without incongruity additions and accommodations adapted to the need of each successive oc- cupant, who, being for the most part proprietor, was at liberty to follow his own fancy : so that these humble dwellings remind the contemplative spectator of a production of nature, and may (using a strong expression) rather be said to have grown than to have been erected ; — to have risen, by an instinct of their own, out of the native rock — so little is there in them of formality, such is their wildness and beauty. Among the numerous recesses and projections in the walls and in the different stages of their roofs, are seen bold and harmonious effects of contrasted sunshine and shadow. It is a favourable circumstance, that the strong winds, which sweep down the valleys, induced the inhabitants, 148 COTTAGES. at a time when the materials for building were easily procured, to furnish many of these dwellings with substantial porches ; and such as have not this defence, are seldom unprovided with a projection of two large slates over their thresholds. Nor will the singular beauty of the chimneys escape the eye of the at- tentive traveller. Sometimes a low chimney, almost upon a level with the roof, is overlaid with a slate, supported on four slender pillars, to prevent the wind from driving the smoke down the chimney. Others are of a quadrangular shape, rising one or two feet above the roof ; which low square is often surmounted by a tall cylinder, giving to the cottage chimney the most beau- tiful shape in which it is ever seen. Nor will it be too fanciful or refined to remark, that there is a pleasing harmony between a tall chimney of this circular form, and the living column of smoke ascending from it through the still air. These dwellings, mostly built, as has been said, of rough unhewn stone, are roofed with slates, which were rudely taken from the quarry before the present art of splitting them was understood, and are, therefore, rough and uneven in their surface, so that both the coverings and sides of the houses have furnished places of rest for the seeds of lichens, mosses, ferns, and flowers. Hence buildings, which in their very form call to mind the processes of nature, do thus, clothed in part with a vegetable garb, appear to be received into the bosom of the living principle of things, as it acts and exists among the woods and fields ; and, by their colour and their shape, affectingly direct the thoughts to that tranquil course of nature and simplicity, along which the humble -minded inhabi- tants have, through so many generations, been led. Add the little garden with its shed for bee-hives, its small bed of pot- herbs, and its borders and patches of flowers for Sunday posies, with sometimes a choice few, too much prized to be plucked ; an orchard of proportioned size ; a cheese-press, often supported by some tree near the door ; a cluster of embowering sycamores for summer shade ; with a tall fir, through which the winds sing when other trees are leafless^ the little rill or household spout murmuring in all seasons ; — combine these incidents and images together, and you have the representative idea of a mountain- cottage in this country, so beautifully formed in itself and so richly adorned by the hand of nature. Till within the last sixty years there was no communication LANES AND PATHWAYS — BRIDGES. 149 between any of these vales by carriage-roads ; all bulky articles were transported on pack-horses. Owing, however, to the population not being concentrated in villages, but scattered, the valleys themselves were intersected as now by innumerable lanes and pathways leading from house to house and from field to field. These lanes, where they are fenced by stone walls,, are mostly bordered with ashes, hazels, wild roses, and beds of tall fern, at their base ; while the walls themselves, if old, are overspread with mosses, small ferns, wild strawberries, the geranium, and lichens : and, if the wall happen to rest against a bank of earth, it is sometimes almost wholly concealed by a rich facing of stone- fern. It is a great advantage to a traveller or resident, that these numerous lanes and paths, if he be a zealous admirer of nature, will lead him into all the recesses of the country, so that the hidden treasures of its landscapes may, by an ever-ready guide, be laid open to his eyes. Likewise to the smallness of the several properties is owing the great number of bridges over the brooks and torrents, and the daring and graceful neglect of danger or accommodation with which so many of them are constructed, the rudeness of the forms of some, and their endless variety. But when I speak of this rudeness, I must at the same time add, that many of these struc- tures are in themselves models of elegance, as if they had been formed upon principles of the most thoughtful architecture. It is to be regretted that these monuments of the skill of our an- cestors, and of that happy instinct by which consummate beauty was produced, are disappearing fast ; but sufficient specimens remain* to give a high gratification to the man of genuine taste. Travellers who may not have been accustomed to pay attention * Written some time ago. The injury done since, is more than could have been calculated upon. Singula de nobis anni prcedantur euntes. This is in the course of things, but why should the genius that di- rected the ancient architecture of these vales have deserted them ? For the bridges, churches, mansions, cottages, and their richly-fringed and flat-roofed outhouses, venerable as the grange of some old abbey," have been substituted structures, in which baldness only seems to have been studied, or plans of the most vulgar utility. But some improve- ment may be looked for in future ; the gentry recently have copied the old models, and successful instances might be pointed out, if I could take the liberty. 150 PLACES OF WORSHIP. to things so inobtrusive, will excuse me if I point out the pro- portion between the span and elevation of the arch, the lightness of the parapet, and the graceful manner in which its curve fol- lows faithfully that of the arch. Upon this subject I have nothing further to notice, except the places of worship, which have mostly a little school- house ad- joining.* The architecture of these churches and chapels, where they have not been recently rebuilt or modernised, is of a style not less appropriate and admirable than that of the dwelling- houses and other structures. How sacred the spirit by which our forefathers were directed ! The religio loci is no where violated by these unstinted, yet unpretending, works of human hands. They exhibit generally a well-proportioned oblong, with a suitable porch, in some instances a steeple tower, and in others nothing more than a small belfry, in which one or two bells hang visibly. But these objects, though pleasing in their forms, must necessarily, more than others in rural scenery, de- rive their interest from the sentiments of piety and reverence for the modest virtues and simple manners of humble life with which they may be contemplated. A man must be very insen- sible who would not be touched with pleasure at the sight of the chapel of Buttermere, so strikingly expressing, by its diminutive size, how small must be the congregation there assembled, as it w r ere like one family ; and proclaiming at the same time to the passenger, in connection with the surrounding mountains, the depth of that seclusion in which the people live, that has render- ed necessary the building of a separate place of worship for so * In some places scholars were formerly taught in the church, and at others the school-house was a sort of ante-chapel to the place of wor- ship, being under the same roof : an arrangement which was abandoned as irreverent. It continues, however, to this day in Borrowdale. In the parish register of that chapelry is a notice, that a youth who had quitted the valley, and died in one of the towns on the coast of Cum- berland, had requested that his body should be brought and interred at the foot of the pillar by which he had been accustomed to sit while a school-boy. One cannot but regret that parish registers so seldom contain any thing but bare names ; in a few of this country, especially in that of Loweswater, I have found interesting notices of unusual occurrences — characters of the deceased, and particulars of their lives. There is no good reason why such memorials should not be frequent : these short and simple annals would in future ages become precious. GENERAL PICTURE OF SOCIETY. 151 few. A patriot, calling to mind the images of the stately fabrics of Canterbury, York, or Westminster, will find a heart-felt satisfaction in presence of this lowly pile, as a monument of the wise institutions of our country, and as evidence of the all- pervading and maternal care of that venerable Establishment, of which it is, perhaps, the humblest daughter. The edifice is scarcely larger than many of the single stones or fragments of rock which are scattered near it. We have thus far confined our observations on this division of the subject, to that part of these Dales which runs up far into the mountains. As we descend towards the open country, we meet with halls and mansions, many of which have been places of defence against the incursions of the Scottish borderers : and they not unfre- quently retain their towers and battlements. To these houses, parks are sometimes attached, and to their successive proprietors we chiefly owe whatever ornament is still left to the country of majestic timber. Through the open parts of the vales are scat- tered, also, houses of a middle rank between the pastoral cottage and the old hall residence of the knight or esquire. Such houses differ much from the rugged cottages before described, and are generally graced with a little court or garden in front, where may yet be seen specimens of those fantastic and quaint figures which our ancestors were fond of shaping out in yew-tree, holly, or box-wood. The passenger will sometimes smile at such elaborate display of petty art, while the house does not deign to look upon the natural beauty or the sublimity which its situation almost unavoidably .commands. Thus has been given a faithful description, the minuteness of which the reader will pardon, of the face of this country as it was, and has been through centuries, till within the last sixty years. Towards the head of these Dales was found a perfect Republic of Shepherds and Agriculturists, amongst whom the plough of each man was confined to the maintenance of his own family, or for the occasional accommodation of his neighbour.* * One of the most pleasing characteristics of manners, in secluded and thinly-peopled districts, is a sense of the degree in which human happiness and comfort are dependent on the contingency of neighbour- hood. This is implied by a rhyming adage common here, " Friends are p 2 152 GENERAL PICTURE OF SOCIETY. Two or three cows furnished each family with milk and cheese. The chapel, was the only edifice that presided over these dwell- ings, the supreme head of this pure commonwealth ; the mem- bers of which existed in the midst of a powerful empire, like an ideal society, or an organized community whose constitution had been imposed and regulated by the mountains which had pro- tected it. Neither high-born nobleman, knight, nor esquire, was here ; but many of these humble sons of the hills had a con- sciousness that the land, which they walked over and tilled, had for more than five hundred years been possessed by men of their name and blood ; and venerable was the transition, when a curi- ous traveller, descending from the heart of the mountains, had come to some ancient manorial residence in the more open parts of the vales, which, through rights attached to its proprietor, connected the almost visionary mountain republic he had been contemplating, with the substantial frame of society as existing in the laws and constitution of a mighty empire* far, when neighbours are nar" (near). This mutual helpfulness is not confined to out-of-door work; bnt is ready upon all occasions. For- merly, if a person became sick, especially the mistress of a family, it was usual for those of the neighbours who were more particularly con- nected with the party by amicable offices, to visit the honse, carrying a present ! This practice, which is by no means obsolete, is called owning the family, and is regarded as a pledge of a disposition to be otherwise serviceable in a time of disability and distress> 153 SECTION THIRD. CHANGES, AND RULES OF TASTE FOR PREVENTING THEIR BAD EFFECTS. Such, as hath been said, was the appearance of things till within the last sixty years. A practice, denominated Ornamen- tal Gardening, was at that time becoming prevalent over England. In union with an admiration of this art, and in some instances in opposition to it, had been generated a relish for select parts of natural scenery: and Travellers, instead of con- fining their observations to Towns, Manufactories, or Mines, began (a thing till then unheard of) to 'wander over the island in search of sequestered spots, distinguished, as they might accidentally have learned, for the sublimity or beauty of the forms of Nature there to be seen. Dr. Brown, the celebrated Author of the " Estimate of the Manners and Principles of the Times," published a letter to a friend, in which the attractions of the Vale of Keswick were delineated with a powerful pencil, and the feeling of a genuine Enthusiast. Gray, the Poet, followed: he died soon after his forlorn and melancholy pilgrimage to the Vale of Keswick, and the record left behind him of what he had seen and felt in this journey, excited that pensive interest w r ith which the human mind is ever disposed to listen to the farewell words of a man of genius. The journal of Gray feelingly showed how the gloom of ill health and low spirits had been irradiated by objects, which the Author's powers of mind enabled him to describe with distinctness and unaffected simpli- city. Every reader of this journal must have been impressed with the words which conclude his notice of the Vale of Gras- mere: — " Not a single red tile, no flaring gentleman's house or garden-wall, breaks in upon the repose of this little unsuspected paradise ; but all is peace, rusticity, and happy poverty, in its neatest and most becoming attire." p 3 154 NEW SETTLERS — THE COUNTRY DISFIGURED. What is here so justly said of Grasmere applied almost equally to all its sister Vales. It was well for the undisturbed pleasure of the Poet that he had no forebodings of the change w T hich was soon to take place ; and it might have been hoped that these words, indicating how much the charm of w T hat was de- pended upon what was not, would of themselves have preserved the ancient franchises of this and other kindred mountain retire- ments from trespass ; or (shall I dare to say ?) would have secured scenes so consecrated from profanation. The lakes had now become celebrated ; visitors flocked here from all parts of England ; the fancies of some were smitten so deeply, that they became settlers ; and the Islands of Derwent-water and Win- andermere, as they offered the strongest temptation, were the first places seized upon, and were instantly defaced by the intru- sion. The venerable w T ood that had grown for centuries round the small house called St. Herbert's Hermitage, had indeed some years before been felled by its native proprietor, and the whole island planted anew with Scotch firs, left to spindle up by each other's side — a melancholy phalanx, defying the power of the winds, and disregarding the regret of the spectator, who might otherwise have cheated himself into a belief, that some of the decayed remains of those oaks, the place of which was in this manner usurped, had been planted by the Hermit's own hand. This sainted spot, however, suffered comparatively little injury. At the bidding of an alien improver, the Hind's Cottage, upon Vicar's Island, in the same lake, with its embowering sycamores and cattle-shed, disappeared from the corner where they stood ; and right in the middle, and upon the precise point of the island's highest elevation, rose a tall square habitation, with four sides exposed, like an astronomer's observatory, or a warren- house reared upon an eminence for the detection of depredators, or, like the temple of iEolus, where all the winds pay him obeisance. Round this novel structure, but at a respectful dis- tance, platoons of fir were stationed, as if to protect their com- mander w T hen weather and time should somewhat have shattered his strength. Within the narrow r limits of this island were typified also the state and strength of a kingdom, and its religion as it had been, and was, — for neither was the Druidical circle uncreated, nor the church of the present establishment ; nor the THE COUNTRY DISFIGURED. 155 stately pier, emblem of commerce and navigation ; nor the fort to deal out thunder upon the approaching invader. The taste of a succeeding proprietor rectified the mistakes as far as was practicable, and has rid the spot of its puerilities. The church, after having been docked of its steeple, is applied, both ostensibly and really, to the purpose for which the body of the pile was actually erected, namely, a boat-house ; the fort is demolished ; and, without indignation on the part of the spirits of the ancient Druids who officiated at the circle upon the oppo- site hill, the mimic arrangement of stones, with its sanctum sanctorum, has been swept away. The present instance has been singled out, extravagant as it is, because, unquestionably, this beautiful country has, in numerous other places, suffered from the same spirit, though not clothed exactly in the same form, nor active in an equal degree. It will be sufficient here to utter a regret for the changes that have been made upon the principal Island at Winandermere, and in its neighbourhood. What could be more unfortunate than the taste that suggested the paring of the shores, and surrounding with an embankment this spot of ground, the natural shape of which was so beautiful! An artificial appearance has thus been given to the whole, while infinite varieties of minute beauty have been destroyed. Could not the margin of this noble island be given back to nature ? Winds and waves work with a care- less and graceful hand : and, should they in some places carry aw T ay a portion of the soil, the trifling loss would be amply com- pensated by the additional spirit, dignity, and loveliness, which these agentsand the other powers of nature would soon commu- nicate to what was left behind. As to the larch-plantations upon the main shore, — they who remember the original appear- ance of the rocky steeps, scattered over with native hollies and ash trees, will be prepared to agree with what I shall have to say hereafter upon plantations* in general. But, in truth, no one can now 7 travel through the more frequent- ed tracts, without being offended, at almost every turn, by an introduction of discordant objects, disturbing that peaceful harmony of form and colour w r hich had been through a long lapse of ages most happily preserved. * These are disappearing fast, under the management of the present Proprietor, and native woojd is resuming its place. 156 CAUSES OF BAD TASTE. All gross transgressions of this kind originate, doubtless, in a feeling natural and honourable to the human mind, viz., the pleasure which it receives from distinct ideas, and from the perception of order, regularity, and contrivance. Now, un- practised minds receive these impressions only from objects that are divided from each other by strong lines of demarcation; hence the delight with which such minds are smitten by formality and harsh contrast. But I would beg of those who are eager to create the means of such gratification, first carefully to study what already exists ; and they will find, in a country so lavishly gifted by nature, an abundant variety of forms marked out with a precision that will satisfy their desires. Moreover, a new habit of pleasure will be formed opposite to this, arising out of the perception of the fine gradations by which in nature one thing passes away into another, and the boundaries that consti- tute individuality disappear in one instance only to be revived elsewhere under a more alluring form. The hill of Dunmallet, at the foot of Ullswater, was once divided into different portions, by avenues of fir-trees, with a green and almost perpendicular lane descending down the steep hill through each avenue : con- trast this quaint appearance with the image of the same hill over- grown with self-planted wood, — each tree springing up in the situation best suited to its kind, and with that shape which the situation constrained or suffered it to take. What endless melt- ing and playing into each other of forms and colours does the one offer to a mind at once attentive and active ; and how in- sipid and lifeless, compared w r ith it, appear those parts of the former exhibition with which a child, a peasant perhaps, or a citizen unfamiliar with natural imagery, w r ould have been most delighted ! The disfigurement which this country has undergone, has not, however, proceeded wholly from the common feelings of human nature which have been referred to as the primary sources of bad taste in rural imagery ; another cause must be added, that has chiefly shown itself in its effect upon buildings. I mean a warping of the natural mind occasioned by a consciousness that, this country being an object of general admiration, every new house would be looked at and commented upon either for appro- bation or censure. Hence all the deformity and ungracefulness that ever pursue the steps of constraint or affectation. Persons, ANCIENT MODELS RECOMMENDED. 157 who in Leicestershire or Northamptonshire would probably have built a modest dwelling like those of their sensible neighbours, have been turned out of their course ; and, acting a part, no wonder if, having had little experience, they act it ill. The craving for prospect, also, which is immoderate, particularly in new settlers, has rendered it impossible that buildings, whatever might have been their architecture, should in most instances be ornamental to the landscape, rising as they do from the summits of naked hills in staring contrast to the snugness and privacy of the ancient houses. No man is to be condemned for a desire to decorate his resi- dence and possessions ; feeling a disposition to applaud such an endeavour, I would show how the end may be best attained. The rule is simple : with respect to grounds — work, where you can, in the spirit of nature, with an invisible hand of art. Planting, and a removal of wood, may thus, and thus only, be carried on with good effect ; and the like may be said of building, if Antiquity, who may be styled the co-partner and sister of Nature, be not denied the respect to which she is entitled. I have already spoken of the beautiful forms of the ancient man- sions of this country, and of the happy manner in which they harmonize with the forms of nature. Why cannot such be taken as a model, and modern internal convenience be confined within their external grace and dignity. Expense to be avoided, or difficulties to be overcome, may prevent a close adherence to this model ; still, however, it might be followed to a certain degree, in the style of architecture and in the choice of situation, if the thirst for prospect were mitigated by those considerations of comfort, shelter, and convenience, which used to be chiefly sought after. But should an aversion to old fashions unfortu- nately exist, accompanied with a desire to transplant into the cold and stormy North, the elegancies of a villa formed upon a model taken from countries with milder climate, I will adduce a passage from an English poet, the divine Spenser, which will show in what manner such a plan may be realised without injury to the native beauty of these scenes. "Into that forrest farre they thence him led, Where was their dwelling in a pleasant glade With mountains round about environed, And mighty woods which did the valley shade^ 158 ANCIENT MODELS RECOMMENDED. And like a stately theatre it made, Spreading itself into a spacious plaine ; And in the midst a little river plaide Emongst the puny stones which seem'd to 'plaine With gentle murmure that his course they did restraine. Beside the same a dainty place there lay, Planted with mirtle trees and laurels green, In which the birds sang many a lovely lay Of God's high praise, and of their sweet loves teene, As it an earthly paradise had beene; In whose enclosed shadow there was pight A fair pavillion, scarcely to be seen, The which was all within most richly dight, That greatest princess living it mote well delight." Houses or mansions suited to a mountainous region, should be "not obvious, not obtrusive, but retired;'' and the reasons for this rule, though they have been little adverted to, are evident. Mountainous countries, more frequently and forcibly than others, remind us of the power of the elements, as manifested in winds, snows, and torrents, and accordingly make the notion of ex- posure very unpleasing ; while shelter and comfort are in propor- tion necessary and acceptable. Far-winding valleys difficult of access, and the feelings of simplicity habitually connected with mountain retirements, prompt us to turn from ostentation, as a thing there eminently unnatural and out of place. A mansion, amidst such scenes, can never have sufficient dignity or interest to become principal in the landscape, and to render the. moun- tains, lakes, or torrents, by which it may be surrounded, a subordinate part of the view. It is, I grant, easy to conceive that an ancient castellated building, hanging over a precipice or raised upon an island or the peninsula of a lake, like that of Kilchurn Castle, upon Loch Awe, may not want, whether deserted or inhabited, sufficient majesty to preside for a moment in the spectator's thoughts over the high mountains among which it is embosomed ; but its titles are from antiquity — a power readily submitted to upon occasion as the vicegerent of Nature : it is respected, as having owed its existence to the necessities of things, as a monument of security in times of disturbance and danger long passed away, — as a record of the pomp and violence of passion, and a symbol of the wisdom of law; — it bears a countenance of authority, which is not impaired by decay. COLOURING OF BUILDINGS. 159 " Child of loud-throated war, the mountain -stream Roars in thy hearing ; but thy hour of rest Is come, and thou art silent in thy age!" To such honours a modern edifice can lay no claim ; and the puny efforts of elegance appear contemptible, when, in such situations, they are obtruded in rivalship with the sublimi- ties of Nature. But, towards the verge of a district like this of which we are treating, when the mountains subside into hills of moderate elevation, or in an undulating or flat country, a gentleman's mansion may, with propriety, become a principal feature in the landscape ; and, being itself a work of art, works and traces of artificial ornament may, without censure, be extended around it, as they will be referred to the common centre, the house; the right of which, to impress within certain limits a character of obvious ornament, will not be denied, where no commanding forms of nature dispute it, or set it aside. Now T , to a want of the perception of this difference, and to the causes before assigned, may chiefly be attributed the disfigurement which the Country of the Lakes has undergone, from persons who may have built, demolished, and planted, with full confi- dence that every change and addition was, or would become, an improvement. The principle that ought to determine the position, apparent size, and architecture of a house, viz. that it should be v so con- structed, and (if large) so much of it hidden, as to admit of its being, gently incorporated into the scenery of nature — should also determine its colour. Sir Joshua Reynolds used to say, "If you would fix upon the best colour for your house, turn up a stone, or pluck up a handful of grass by the roots, and see what is the colour of the soil where the house is to stand, and let that be your choice." Of course, this precept, given in conversation, could not have been meant to be taken literally. For example, in Low Furness, where the soil, from its strong impregnation with iron, is universally of a deep red, if this rule were strictly followed, the house also must be of a glaring red; in other ■ places it must be of a sullen black ; which would only be adding annoyance to annoyance. The rule, however, as a general guide, is good ; and, in agricultural districts, where large tracts of soil are laid bare by the plough, particularly if (the face of the country being undulating) they are held up to view, this 160 COLOURING OF BUILDINGS, rule, though not to be implicitly adhered to, should never be lost sight of ; — the colour of the house ought, if possible, to have a cast or shade of the colour of the soil. The principle is, that the house must harmonise with the surrounding landscape: accordingly, in mountainous countries, with still more confidence may it be said, '* look at the rocks and those parts of the moun- tains where the soil is visible, and they will furnish a safe direc- tion." Nevertheless, it will often happen that the rocks may bear so large a proportion to the rest of the landscape, and may be of such a tone of colour, that the rule may not admit, even here, of being implicitly followed. For instance, the chief defect in the colouring of the Country of the Lakes (which is most strongly felt in the summer season), is an over-prevalence of a bluish tint, which the green of the herbage, the fern, and the woods, does not sufficiently counteract. If a house, there- fore, should stand where this defect prevails, I have no hesitation in saying, that the colour of the neighbouring rocks would not be the best that could be chosen. A tint ought to be introduced approaching nearer to those which, in the technical language of painters, are called warm : this, if happily selected, would not disturb, but would animate, the landscape. How often do we see this exemplified upon a small scale by the native cottages, in cases where the glare of white- wash has been subdued by time and enriched by weather-stains! No harshness is then seen; but one of these cottages, thus coloured, will often form a central point to a landscape by which the whole shall be connected, and an influence of pleasure diffused over all the objects that com- pose the picture. But where the cold blue tint of the rocks is enriched by the iron tinge, the colour cannot be too closely imi- tated ; and it will be produced of itself by the stones hewn from the adjoining quarry, and by the mortar, which may be tempered with the most gravelly part of the soil. The pure blue gravel, from the bed of the river, is, however, more suitable to the mason's purpose, who will probably insist also that the house must be covered with rough-cast, otherwise it cannot be kept dry ; if this advice be taken, the builder of taste will set about contriving such means as may enable him to come the nearest to the effect aimed at. The supposed necessity of rough-cast to keep out rain in houses not built of hewn stone or brick, has tended greatly to COLOURING OF BUILDINGS. 161 injure English landscape, and the neighbourhood of these Lakes especially, by furnishing such apt occasion for whitening buildings. That white should be a favourite colour for rural residences is natural for many reasons. The mere aspect of cleanliness and neatness thus given, not only to an individual house, but, where the practice is general, to the whole face of the country, produces moral associations so powerful that, in many minds, they take place of all others. But what has already been said upon the subject of cottages, must have convinced men of feeling and imagination, that a human dwelling of the hum- blest class may be rendered more deeply interesting to the affec- tions, and far more pleasing to the eye, by other influences, than a sprightly tone of colour spread over its outside. I do not, however, mean to deny, that a small white building, embowered in trees, may, in some situations, be a delightful and animating ob- ject — in no way injurious to the landscape ; but this only where it sparkles from the midst of a thick shade, and in rare and solitary instances ; especially if the country be itself rich and pleasing, and abound with grand forms. On the sides of bleak and deso- late moors, we are indeed thankful for the sight of white cottages and white houses plentifully scattered, where, without these, perhaps every thing would be cheerless : this is said, however, with hesitation, and with a wilful sacrifice of some higher enjoy- ments. But I have certainly seen such buildings glittering at sunrise, and in wandering lights, with no common pleasure. The continental traveller also will remember, that the convents hang- ing from the rocks of the Rhine, the Rhone, the Danube, or among the Appenines, or the mountains of Spain, are not looked at with less complacency when, as is often the case, they happen to be of a brilliant white. But this is perhaps owing, in no small degree, to the contrast of that lively colour with the gloom of monastic life, and to the general want of rural residences of smiling and attractive appearance, in those countries. The objections to white, as a colour, in large spots or masses in landscape, especially in a mountainous country, are insurmount- able. In nature, pure white is scarcely ever found but in small objects, such as flowers ; or in those which are transitory, as the clouds, foam of rivers, and snow. Mr. Gilpin, who notices this, has also recorded the just remark of Mr. Locke, of N » that white destroys the gradations of distance ; and, therefore, Q 162 THE LARCH. an object of pure white can scarcely ever be managed with good effect in landscape-painting. Five or six white houses, scattered over a valley, by their obtrusiveness, dot the surface, and divide it into triangles, or other mathematical figures, haunting the eye, and disturbing that repose which might otherwise be perfect. I have seen a single white house materially impair the majesty of a mountain ; cutting away, by a harsh separation, the whole of its base below the point on which the house stood. Thus was the apparent size of the mountain reduced, not by the interposition of another object in a manner to call forth the imagination, which will give more than the eye loses : but what had been abstracted in this case was left visible ; and the mountain ap- peared to take its beginning, or to rise, from the line of the house, instead of its own natural base. But, if I may express my own individual feeling, it is after sunset, at the coming on of twilight, that white objects are most to be complained of. The solemnity and quietness of nature at that time are always marred, and often destroyed, by them. When the ground is covered with snow, they are of course inoffensive ; and in moonshine they are always pleasing — it is a tone of light with which they accord : and the dimness of the scene is enlivened by an object at once conspicuous and cheerful. I will conclude this subject with noticing, that the cold slaty colour, which many persons who have heard the white condemned have adopted in its stead, must be disapproved of for the reason already given. The flaring yellow runs into the opposite extreme, and is still more censurable. Upon the whole, the safest colour, for general use, is something between a cream and a dust colour, commonly called stone colour ; — there are, among the Lakes, examples of this that need not be pointed out.* The principle taken as our guide, viz. that the house should be so formed, and of such apparent size and colour, as to admit of its being gently incorporated with the works of nature, should also be applied to the management of the grounds and plantations, and is here more urgently needed ; for it is from abuses in this department, far more even than from the intro- * A proper colouring of houses is now becoming general. It is best that the colouring material should be mixed with the rough-cast, and not laid on as a wash afterwards. PLANTING. 163 duction of exotics in architecture (if the phrase may be used), that this country has suffered. Larch and fir plantations have been spread, not merely with a view to profit, but in many instances for the sake of ornament. To those who plant for profit, and are thrusting every other tree out of the way, to make room for their favourite, the larch, I would utter first a regret, that they should have selected these lovely vales for their vegetable manufactory, when there is so much barren and irreclaimable land in the neighbouring moors, and in other parts of the island, which might have been had for this purpose at a far cheaper rate. And I will also beg leave to represent to them, that they ought not to be carried away by flattering promises from the speedy growth of this tree ; because in rich soils and sheltered situations, the wood, though it thrives fast, is full of sap, and of little value : and is, likewise, very subject to ravage from the attacks of insects, and from blight. Accord- ingly, in Scotland, where planting is much better understood, and carried on upon an incomparably larger scale than among us, good soil and sheltered situations are appropriated to the oak, the ash, and other deciduous trees ; and the larch is now gener- ally confined to barren and exposed ground. There the plant, which is a hardy one, is of slower growth ; much less liable to injury ; and the timber is of better quality. But the circum- stances of many permit, and their taste leads them, to plant with little regard to profit ; and there are others, less wealthy, who have such a lively feeling of the native beauty of these scenes, that they are laudably not unwilling to make some sacrifices to heighten it. Both these classes of persons, I would entreat to enquire of themselves wherein that beauty which they admire consists. They would then see that, after the feeling has been gratified that prompts us to gather round our dwelling a few flowers and shrubs, which, from the circumstance of their not being native, may, by their very looks remind us that they owe their existence to our hands, and their prosperity to our care ; they will see that, after this natural desire has been provided for, the course of all beyond has been predetermined by the spirit of the place. Before I proceed, I will remind those who are not satisfied with the restraint thus laid upon them, that they are liable to a charge of inconsistency, when they are so eager to change «the face of that country, whose native attractions, by Q.2 164 PLANTING. the act of erecting their habitations in it, they have so emphati- cally acknowledged. And surely there is not a single spot that would not have, if well managed^ sufficient dignity to support itself, unaided by the productions of other climates, or by elaborate decorations which might be becoming elsewhere. Having adverted to the feelings that justify the introduction of a few exotic plants, provided they be confined almost to the doors of the house ; we may add, that a transition should be contrived, without abruptness, from these foreigners to the rest of the shrubs, which ought to be of the kinds scattered by Nature through the woods — holly, broom, wild-rose, elder, dogberry, white and black thorn, &c — either these only, or such as are carefully selected in consequence of their being united in form, and harmonising in colour with them, especially with respect to colour, when the tints are most diversified, as in autumn and spring. The various sorts of fruit-and-blossom-bearing trees usually found in orchards, to which may be added those of the woods, — namely, the wilding, black-cherry tree, and wild cluster-cherry (here called heck-berry) — may be happily admitted as an intermediate link between the shrubs and the forest trees ; which last ought almost entirely to be such as are natives of the country. Of the birch, one of the most beautiful of the native trees, it maybe noticed, that in dry and rocky situations, it outstrips even the larch, which many persons are tempted to plant merely on account of the speed of its growth. The Scotch fir is less attractive during its youth than any other plant ; but, when full- grown, if it has haa room to spread out its arms, it becomes a noble tree ; and, by those who are disinterested enough to plant for posterity, it may be placed along with the sycamore near the house ; for, from their massiveness, both these trees unite well with buildings, and in some situations with rocks also ; having, in their forms and apparent substances, the effect of something intermediate betwixt the immoveableness and solidity of stone, and the spray and foliage of the lighter trees. If these general rules be just, what shall we say to whole acres of artificial shrubbery and exotic trees among rocks and dashing torrents, with their own wild wood in sight — where we have the whole contents of the nurseryman's catalogue jumbled together — colour at war with colour, and form with form ? — among the most peaceful subjects of Nature's kingdom, everywhere discord, PLANTING, 165 distraction, and bewilderment! But this deformity, bad as it is, is not so obtrusive as the small patches and large tracts of larch- plantations that are overrunning the hill sides. To justify our condemnation of these, let us again recur to Nature. The process, by which she forms woods and forests, is as follows. Seeds are scattered indiscriminately by winds, brought by w r aters, and dropped by birds. They perish or produce, accord- ing as the soil and situation upon which they fall are suited to them: and under the same dependence, the seedling or the sucker, if not cropped by animals (which Nature is often careful to prevent by fencing it about with brambles or other prickly shrubs), thrives, and the tree grows, sometimes single, taking its own shape without constraint, but for the most part compelled to conform itself to some law imposed upon it by its neighbours. From low and sheltered places, vegetation travels upwards to the more exposed; and the young plants are protected, and to a certain degree fashioned, by those that have preceded them. The continuous mass of foliage which w r ould be thus produced, is broken by rocks, or by glades or open places, where the browz- ing of animals has prevented the growth of wood. As vegeta- tion ascends, the winds begin also to bear their part in moulding the forms of the trees; but, thus mutually protected, trees, though not of the hardiest kind, are enabled to climb high up the mountains. Gradually, however, by the quality of the ground, and by increasing exposure, a stop is put to their ascent ; the hardy trees only are left: those also, by little and little, give way — and a wild and irregular boundary is established, graceful in its outline, and never contemplated without some feeling, more or less distinct, of the powers of Nature by which it is imposed. Contrast the liberty that encourages, and the law that limits, this joint work of nature and time, with the disheartening necessities, restrictions, and disadvantages, under which the artificial planter must proceed, even he whom long observation and fine feeling have best qualified for his task. In the first place, his trees, however well chosen and adapted to their several situations, must generally start all at the same time ; and this necessity would of itself prevent that fine connexion of parts, that sympathy and organization, if I may so express myself, which pervades the whole of a natural wood, and ap- q 3 166 PLANTING. pears to the eye in its single trees, its masses of foliage, and their various colours, when they are held up to view on the side of a mountain ; or when, spread over a valley, they are looked down upon from an eminence. It is therefore impossible, under any circumstances, for the artificial planter to rival the beauty of nature. But a moment's thought will show that, if ten thousand of this spiky tree, the larch, are stuck in at once upon the side of a hill, they can grow up into nothing but deformity ; that, while they are suffered to stand, we shall look in vain for any of those appearances which are the chief sources of beauty in a natural wood. It must be acknowledged that the larch, till it has outgrown the size of a shrub, shows, when looked at singly, some elegance in form and appearance, especially in spring, decorated, as it then is, by the pink tassels of its blossoms; but, as a tree, it is less than any other pleasing: its branches (for boughs it has none) have no variety in the youth of the tree, and little dignity, even when it attains its full growth ; leaves it cannot be said to have, consequently neither affords shade nor shelter. In spring the larch becomes green long before the native trees ; and its green is so peculiar and vivid, that, finding nothing to harmonize with it, wherever it comes forth, a disagreeable speck is produc- ed. In summer, when all other trees are in their pride, it is of a dingy lifeless hue; in autumn of a spiritless unvaried yellow ; and, in winter, it is still more lamentably distinguished from every other deciduous tree of the forest, for they seem only to sleep, but the larch appears absolutely dead. If an attempt be made to mingle thickets, or a certain proportion of other forest trees, with the larch, its horizontal branches intolerantly cut them down as with a scythe, or force them to spindle up to keep pace with it. The terminating spike renders it impossible that the several trees, where planted in numbers, should ever blend together so as to form a mass or masses of wood. Add thou- sands to tens of thousands, and the appearance is still the same — a collection of separate individual trees, obstinately presenting themselves as such ; and which, from whatever point they are looked at, if but seen, may be counted upon the fingers. Sun- shine or shadow, has little power to adorn the surface of such a wood ; and the trees not carrying up their heads, the wind raises among them no majestic undulations. It is indeed true, PLANTING. 167 that, in countries where the larch is a native, and where, without interruption it may sweep from valley to valley, and from hill to hill, a sublime image may be produced by such a forest, in the same manner as by one composed of any other single tree, to the spreading of which no limits can be assigned. For sublimity will never be wanting where the sense of innu- merable multitude is lost in, and alternates with, that of intense unity ; and to the ready perception of this effect, similarity and almost identity of individual form and monotony of colour con- tribute. But this feeling is confined to the native immeasurable forest ; no artificial plantation can give it. The foregoing observations will, I hope (as nothing has been condemned or recommended without a substantial reason), have some influence upon those who plant for ornament merely. To such as plant for profit, I have already spoken. Let me then entreat that the native deciduous trees may be left in complete possession of the lower ground ; and that plantations of larch, if introduced at all, may be confined to the highest and most barren tracts. Interposition of rocks would there break the dreary uniformity of w r hich we have been complaining ; and the winds would take hold of the trees, and imprint upon their shapes a wildness congenial to their situation. Having determined what kind of trees must be wholly reject- ed, or at least very sparingly used, by those who are unwilling to disfigure the country ; and having shown what kinds ought to be chosen ; 1 should have given, if my limits had not already been overstepped, a few practical rules for the manner in which trees ought to be disposed in planting. But to this subject I should attach little importance, if I could succeed in banishing such trees as introduced deformity, and could prevail upon the proprietor to confine himself, either to those found in the native woods, or to such as accord with them. This is, indeed, the main point ; for, much as these scenes have been injured by what has been taken from them — buildings, trees, and woods, either through negligence, necessity, avarice, or caprice — it is not the removals, but the harsh additions that have been made^ which are the worst grievance — a standing and unavoidable annoyance. Often have I felt this distinction, with mingled satisfaction and regret , for, if no positive deformity or discord- ance be substituted or superinduced, such is the benignity of 188 FURTHER CHANGES PROBABLE. Nature, that, take away from her beauty after beauty, and ornament after ornament, her appearance cannot be marred — the scars, if any be left, will gradually disappear before a healing spirit ; and what remains will still be soothing and pleasing. — "Many hearts deplored The fate of those old trees ; and oft with pain The traveller at this day will stop and gaze On wrongs which nature scarcely seems to heed : For sheltered places, bosoms, nooks, and bays, And the pure mountains, and the gentle Tweed, And the green silent pastures, yet remain." There are few ancient woods left in this part of England upon which such indiscriminate ravage as is here " deplored," could now be committed. But, out of the numerous copses, fine woods might in time be raised, probably without sacrifice of profit, by leaving, at the periodical fellings, a due proportion of the healthiest trees to grow up into timber. — This plan has fortunately, in many instances, been adopted; and they who have set the example, are entitled to the thanks of all persons of taste. As to the management of planting with reasonable at- tention to ornament, let the images of nature be your guide, and the whole secret lurks in a few words ; thickets or under- woods — single trees — trees clustered or in groups — groves — unbroken woods, but with varied masses of foliage — glades — invisible or winding boundaries — in rocky districts, a seemly- proportion of rock left wholly bare, and other parts half hidden — disagreeable objects concealed, and formal lines broken— trees climbing up to the horizon, and, in some places, ascending from its sharp edge, in which they are rooted, with the whole body of the tree appearing to stand in the clear sky — in other parts, woods surmounted by rocks utterly bare and naked, which add to the sense of height, as if vegetation could not thither be carried, and impress a feeling of duration, power of resistance, and security from change ! The author has been induced to speak thus at length, by a wish- to preserve the native beauty of this delightful district, because still further changes in its appearance must inevitably follow, from the change of inhabitants and owners which is rapidly taking place. About the same time that strangers began to be FURTHER CHANGES PROBABLE. 169 attracted to the country, and to feel a desire to settle in it, the difficulty, that would have stood in the way of procuring situa- tions, was lessened by an unfortunate alteration in the circum- stances of the native peasantry, proceeding from a cause which then began to operate, and is now felt in every house. The family of each man, whether estatesman or farmer, formerly had a twofold support ; first, the produce of his lands and flocks; and, secondly, the profit drawn from the employment of the woman and children, as manufacturers ; spinning their own wool in their own houses (work chiefly done in the winter season), and carrying it to market for sale. Hence, however numerous the children, the income of the family kept pace with its increase. But, by the invention and universal application of machinery, this second resource has been cut off"; the gains being so far reduced, as not to be sought after but by a few aged persons disabled from other employment. Doubtless, the invention of machinery has not been to these people a pure loss ; for the profits arising from home-manufactures operated as a strong temptation to choose that mode of labour in neglect of husbandry. They also participate in the general benefit which the island has derived from the increased value of the produce of land, brought about by the establishment of manufactures, and by the consequent quickening of agricultural industry. But this is far from making them amends ; and now that home-manufactures are nearly done away, though the women and children might, at many seasons of the year, employ themselves with advantage in the fields beyond what they are accustomed to do, yet still all possible exertion in this way cannot be rationally expected from persons whose agri- cultural knowledge is so confined, and, above all, where there must necessarily be so small a capital. The consequence, then, is — that proprietors and farmers being no longer able to maintain themselves upon small farms, several are united in one, and the buildings go to decay, or are destroyed; and that the lands of the estatesmen being mortgaged, and the owners being constrained to part with them, they fall into the hands of wealthy purchasers, who, in like manner, unite and consolidate ; and, if they wish to become residents, erect new mansions out of the ruins of the ancient cottages, whose little enclosures, with all the wild graces that grew out of them, disappear. The feudal tenure under which the estates are held, has indeed done something towards 170 FURTHER CHANGES TROBABLE. checking this influx of new settlers ; but so strong is the inclina- tion, that these galling restraints are endured ; and it is probable, that in a few years the country on the margin of the Lakes will fall almost entirely into the possession of gentry, either strangers or natives. It is then much to be wished, that a better taste should prevail among these new proprietors; and, as they cannot be expected to leave things to themselves, that skill and know- ledge should prevent unnecessary deviations from that path of simplicity and beauty along which, without design and unconsci- ously, their humble predecessors have moved. In this wish the author will be joined by persons of pure taste throughout the whole island, who, by their visits (often repeated) to the Lakes in the North of England, testify that they deem the district a sort of national propert}', in which every man has a right and interest who has an eye to perceive, and a heart to enjoy. 171 SECTION FOURTH. ALPINE SCENES COMPARED WITH CUMBRIAN. As a resident among the Lakes, I frequently hear the scenery of this country compared with that of the Alps ; and therefore a few words shall be added to what has been incidentally said upon that subject. If we could recall, to this region of the lakes, the native pine- forests, with which many hundred years ago a large portion of the heights was covered ; then, during spring and autumn, it might frequently, with much propriety, be compared to Switzer- land, — the elements of the landscape would be the same, — one country representing the other in miniature. Towns, villages, churches, rural seats, bridges and roads, green meadows and arable grounds, with their various produce, and deciduous woods of diversified foliage which occupy the vales and lower regions of the mountains, would, as in Switzerland, be divided by dark forests from ridges and round- topped heights covered with snow, and from pikes and sharp declivities imperfectly arrayed in the same glittering mantle : and the resemblance would be still more perfect on those days when vapours, resting upon and floating around the summits, leave the elevation of the mountains less dependent upon the eye than on the imagination. But the pine-forests have wholly disappeared: and only during late spring and early autumn is realized here that assemblage of the imagery of different seasons, which is exhibited through the whole sum- mer among the Alps, — winter in the distance, — and w T armth, leafy woods, verdure and fertility at hand, and widely diffused. Striking out, then, from among the permanent materials of the landscape, that stage of vegetation which is occupied by pine- forests, and, above that, the perennial snows, we have moun- tains, the highest of which little exceed 3,000 feet, while some of the Alps do not fall short of 14,000 or 15,000, and 8,000 or 172 ALPINE SCENES 10,000 is not an uncommon elevation. Our tracts of wood and water are almost as diminutive in comparison ; therefore, as far as sublimity is dependent upon absolute bulk and height, and atmospherical influences in connection with these, it is obvious that there can be no rivalship. But a short residence among the British Mountains will furnish abundant proof, that, after a cer- tain point of elevation, viz. that which allows of compact and fleecy clouds settling upon or sweeping over the summits, the sense of sublimity depends more upon form and relation of objects to each other than upon their actual magnitude ; and, that an elevation of 3,000 feet is sufficient to call forth in a most impressive degree the creative, and magnifying, and soften- ing powers of the atmosphere. Hence, on the score even of sublimity, the superiority of the Alps is by no means so great as might hastily be inferred ; — and, as to the beauty of the lower regions of the Swiss Mountains, it is noticeable — that, as they are all regularly mown, their surface has nothing of that mellow tone and variety of hues by which mountain turf, that is never touched by the scythe, is distinguished. On the smooth and steep slopes of the Swiss hills, these plots of verdure do indeed agreeably unite their colour with that of the deciduous trees, or make a lively contrast with the dark green pine groves that define them, and among which they run in endless variety of shapes — but this is most pleasing at first sight ; the permanent gratification of the eye requires finer gradations of tone, and a more delicate blending of hues into each other. Besides, it is only in spring and late autumn that cattle animate by their presence the Swiss lawns; and, though the pastures of the higher regions where they feed during the summer are left in their natural state of flowery herbage, those pastures are so remote, that their texture and colour are of no consequence in the com- position of any picture in which a lake of the Vales is a feature. Yet in those lofty regions, how vegetation is invigorated by the genial climate of that country! Among the luxuriant flowers there met with, groves, or forests, if I may so call them, of Monk's-hood are frequently seen ; the flower of deep rich blue, and as tall as in our gardens ; and this at an elevation where, in Cumberland, Icelandic moss would only be found, or the stony summits be utterly bare. We have, then, for the colouring of Switzerland, principally COMPARED WITH CUMBRIAN. 173 a vivid green herbage, black woods, and dazzling snows, pre- sented in masses with a grandeur to which no one can be insens- ible ; but not often graduated by Nature into soothing harmony, and so ill suited to the pencil, that though abundance of good subjects may be there found, they are not such as can be deemed characteristic of the country ; nor is this unfitness confined to colour : the forms of the mountains, though many of them in some points of view the noblest that can be conceived, are apt to run into spikes and needles, and present a jagged outline, which has a mean effect transferred to canvass. This must have been felt by the ancient masters ; for, if I am not mistaken, they have not left a single landscape, the materials of which are taken from the peculiar features of the Alps ; yet Titian passed his life almost in their neighbourhood ; the Poussins and Claude must have been well acquainted with their aspects ; and several admirable painters, as Tibaldi and Luino, were born among the Italian Alps. A few experiments have lately been made by Englishmen, but they only prove that courage, skill, and judg- ment may surmount any obstacles ; and it may be safely affirmed, that they who have done best in this bold adventure, will be the least likely to repeat the attempt. But, though our scenes are better suited to painting than those of the Alps, I should be sorry to contemplate either country in reference to that art, further than as its fitness or unfitness for the pencil renders it more or less pleasing to the eye of the spectator, who has learn- ed to observe and feel, chiefly from Nature herself. Deeming the points in which Alpine imagery is superior to British too obvious to be insisted upon, I will observe that the deciduous woods, though in many places unapproachable by the axe, and triumphing in the pomp and prodigality of Nature, have, in general,* neither the variety nor beauty which would exist in those of the mountains of Britain, if left to themselves. Magnificent walnut-trees grow upon the plains of Switzerland; and fine trees of that species are found scattered over the hill- sides : birches also grow here and there in luxuriant beauty ; but neither these, nor oaks, are ever a prevailing tree, nor can even be said to be common ; and the oaks, as far as I had an opportunity of observing, are greatly inferior to those of Britain. Among the * The greatest variety of trees is found in the Valais. R }74 ALPINE SCENES interior valleys, the proportion of beeches and pines is so great that other trees are scarcely noticeable; and surely such woods are at all seasons much less agreeable than that rich and harmoni- ous distribution of oak, ash, elm, birch, and alder, that formerly clothed the sides of Snowdon and Helvellyn, and of which no mean remains still survive at the head of Ullswater. On the Italian side of the Alps, chesnut and walnut trees grow at a con- siderable height on the mountains ; but, even there, the foliage is not equal in beauty to the " natural product" of this climate. In fact, the sunshine of the South of Europe, so envied when heard of at a distance, is in many respects injurious to rural beauty, particularly as it incites to the cultivation of spots of ground which in colder climates would be left in the hands of nature, favouring at the same time the culture of plants that are more valuable on account of the fruit they produce to gratify the palate, than for affording pleasure to the eye as materials of landscape. Take, for instance, the Promontory of Bellagio, so fortunate in its command of the three branches of the Lake of Como, yet the ridge of the Promontory itself, being for the most part covered with vines interspersed with olive trees, accords but ill with the vastness of the green unappropriated mountains, and derogates not a little from the sublimity of those finely-contrasted pictures to which it is a fore-ground. The vine, when cultivated upon a large scale, notwithstanding all that may be said of it in poetry,* makes but a dull formal appearance in landscape ; and the olive tree (though one is loath to say so) is not more grateful to the eye than our common willow, which it much resembles; but the hoariness of hue, common to both, has in the aquatic plant an appropriate delicacy, harmonising with the situation in which it most delights. The same may no doubt be said of the olive among the dry rocks of Attica, but I am speaking of it as * Lucretius has charmingly described a scene of this kind. "Inque dies magis in montem succedere s vivas Cogebant, infr&que locum concedere cultis : Prata, lacus, rivos, segetes, vinetaque la?ta Collibus et campis ut haberent, atque olearum Ccerula distinguens inter playa currere posset Per tumulos, et convalleis, camposque profusa : Ut nunc esse vides vario distincta lepore Omnia, quae pomis intersita dulcibus ornant, Arbustisque tenent felicibus obsita cireum*'* COMPARED WITH CUMBRIAN. 175 found in gardens and vineyards in the North of Italy. At Bel- lagio, what Englishman can resist the temptation of substituting, in his fancy, for these formal treasures of cultivation, the natu- ral variety of one of our parks — its pastured lawns, coverts of hawthorn, of wild-rose, and honeysuckle, and the majesty of forest trees? — such wild graces as the banks of Derwent-water shewed in the time of the Ratcliffes ; and Gowbarrow Park, Lowther, and Rydal do at this day. As my object is to reconcile a Briton to the scenery of his own country, though not at the expense of truth, I am not afraid of asserting that in many points of view our Lakes, also, are much more interesting than those of the Alps ; first, as is im- plied above, from being more happily proportioned to the other features of the landscape ^ and next, both as being infinitely more pellucid, and less subject to agitation from the winds.* Como (which may perhaps be styled the King of Lakes, as Lugano is cer- tainly the Queen) is disturbed by a periodical wind blowing from the head in the morning, and towards it in the afternoon. The magnificent Lake of the four Cantons, especially its noblest divi- sion, called the Lake of Uri, is not only much agitated by winds, but in the night time is disturbed from the bottom, as I was told, and indeed as I witnessed, without any apparent commotion in the air ; and when at rest, the water is not pure to the eye, but of a heavy green hue — as is that of all the other lakes, apparently ac- cording to the degree in which they are fed by melted snows. If the Lake of Geneva furnish an exception, this is probably owing to its vast extent, which allows the water to deposit its impurities. * The water of the English lakes, on the contrary, * It is remarkable that Como (as is probably the case with other Italian Lakes) is more troubled by storms in summer than in winter. Hence the propriety of the following verses. " Lari ! margine ubique confragoso Nulli ccelicolum negas sacellum Picto pariete saxeoque tecto ; Hinc miracula multa na-vitarum Audis, nee placido refellis ore, Sed nova usque paras, Noto vel Euro JEstivas quatientibus cavernas, Vel surgentis ab Adduse cubili Caeco grandinis imbre provoluto."— Landob. r 2 176 PHENOMENA. being of crystalline clearness, the reflections of the surrounding hills are frequently so lively, that it is scarcely possible to dis- tinguish the point where the real object terminates and its un- substantial duplicate begins. The lower part of the Lake of Geneva, from its narrowness, must be much less subject to agi- tation than the higher divisions, and, as the water is clearer than that of the other Swiss lakes, it will frequently exhibit this ap- pearance, though it is scarcely possible in an equal degree. During two comprehensive tours among the Alps, I did not ob- serve, except on one of the smaller lakes, between Lugano and Ponte Tresa, a single instance of those beautiful repetitions of surrounding objects on the bosom of the water, which are so frequently seen here : not to speak of the fine dazzling trembling net-work, breezy motions, and streaks and circles of intermingled smooth and rippled water, which makes the surface of our lakes a field of endless variety. But among the Alps, where every thing tends to the grand and the sublime, in surfaces as well as in forms, if the lakes do not court the placid reflections of land objects, those of first-rate magnitude make compensation, in some degree, by exhibiting those ever-changing fields of green, blue, and purple shadows or lights (one scarcely knows which to name them), that call to mind a sea-prospect contemplated from a lofty cliff. The subject of torrents and water-falls has already been touched upon ; but it may be added, that in Switzerland, the perpetual accompaniment of snow upon the higher regions takes much from the effect of foaming white streams ; while, from their frequency, they obstruct each other's influence upon the mind of the spectator ; and, in all cases, the effect of an individ- ual cataract, excepting the great Fall of the Rhine at Schaff hau- sen, is diminished by the general fury of the stream of which it is a part. Recurring to the reflections from still water, I will describe a singular phenomenon of this kind of which I was an eye-witness. Walking by the side of Ullswater upon a calm September morning, I saw, deep within the bosom of the lake, a magnificent Castle, with towers and battlements ; nothing could be more distinct than the whole edifice ; — after gazing with delight upon it for some time, as upon a work of enchantment, I could not but regret that my previous knowledge of the place enabled me PHENOMENA. 177 to account for the appearance. It was in fact the reflection of a pleasure-house called Lyulph's Tower — the towers and battle- ments magnified and so much changed in shape as not to be im- mediately recognized. In the meanwhile, the pleasure-house itself w r as altogether hidden from my view by a body of vapour stretching over it and along the hill- side on which it stands, but not so as to have intercepted its communication with the lake ; and hence this novel and most impressive object, which, if I had been a stranger to the spot, would, from its being inexplicable, have long detained the mind in a state of pleasing astonishment. Appearances of this kind, acting upon the credulity of early ages, may have given birth to, and favoured the belief in, stories of subaqueous palaces, gardens, and pleasure-grounds — the bril- liant ornaments of Romance. With this inverted scene I will couple a much more extraor- dinary phenomenon, which will shew how other elegant fancies may have had their origin, less in invention than in the actual processes of nature. About eleven o'clock on the forenoon of a winter's day, com- ing suddenly, in company of a friend, into view of the Lake of Grasmere, we were alarmed by the sight of a newly-created island. The transitory thought of the moment was, that it had been produced by an earthquake or some other convulsion of nature. Recovering from the alarm, which was greater than the reader can possibly sympathize with, but which was shared to its full extent by my companion, we proceeded to examine the object before us. The elevation of this new island exceeded considerably that of the old one, its neighbour ; it was likewise larger in circumference, comprehending a space of about five acres ; its surface rocky, speckled with snow, and sprinkled over with birch trees ; it was divided towards the south from the other island by a narrow frith, and in like manner from the northern shore of the lake ; on the east and west it was separated from the shore by a much larger space of smooth water. Marvellous was the illusion ! Comparing the new with the old Island, the surface of which is soft, green, and unvaried, I do not scruple to say that, as an object of sight, it was much the more distinct. " How little faith," we exclaimed, " is due to one sense, unless its evidence be confirmed by some of its fellows! What Stranger could possibly be persuaded that this, which we e 3 178 COMPARATIVE ESTIMATE. know to bean unsubstantial mockery, \s really so; and that there exists only a single Island on this beautiful Lake?" At length the appearance underwent a gradual transmutation ; it lost its prominence and passed into a glimmering and dim inversion, and then totally disappeared; — leaving behind it a clear open area of ice of the same dimensions. We now perceived that this bed of ice, which was thinly suffused with water, and produced the illu- sion, by reflecting and refracting (as persons skilled in optics would no doubt easily explain) a rocky and woody section of the opposite mountain named Silver-how. Having dwelt so much upon the beauty of pure and still water, and pointed out the advantage which the Lakes of the North of England haye in this particular over those of the Alps, it would be injustice not to advert to the sublimity that must often be given to Alpine scenes, by the agitations to which those vast bodies of diffused water are there subject. I have witnessed many tremendous thunder-storms among the Alps, and the m glorious effects of light and shadow : but I never happened to be present when any lake was agitated by those hurricanes which I imagine must often torment them. If the commotions be at all proportionable to the expanse and depth of the waters, and the height of the surrounding mountains, then, if I may judge from what is frequently seen here, the exhibition moat be awful and astonishing. — On this day, March 30, 1822, the winds have been acting upon the small Luke of Rydal, as if they had received command to carry its waters from their bed into the sky : the white billows in different quarters disappeared under clouds, or rather drifts of spray, that were whirled along, and up intu the air by scouring winds, charging each other in squadrons in every direction, upon the Lake. The spray, having been hurried aloft till it lost its consistency and whiteness, was driven along the mountain tops like flying showers that vanish in the distance. Frequently an eddying wind scooped the waters out of the basin, and forced them upwards in the very shape of an Icelandic Gey- ser, or boiling fountain, to the height of several hundred feet. This small Mere of Rydal, from its position, is subject in a pe^ culiar degree to these commotions. The present season, how- ever, is unusually stormy : — great numbers of fish, two of them not less than twelve pounds weight, were a few days ago t on the shores of Derwent-water by the force of the waves. COMPARATIVE ESTIMATE. 179 Lest, in the foregoing comparative estimate, I should be sus- pected of partiality to my native mountains, I will support my general opinion by the authority of Mr. West, whose Guide to the Lakes has been eminently serviceable to the Tourist for nearly 50 years. The Author, a Roman Catholic Clergyman, had passed much time abroad, and was well acquainted with the scenery of the Continent. He thus expresses himself: " They who intend to make the continental tour should begin here ; as it will give, in miniature, an idea of what they are to meet with there, in traversing the Alps and Appennines ; to which our northern mountains are not inferior in beauty of line, or variety of summit, number of lakes and transparency of water ; not in colouring of rock, or softness of turf; but in height and extent only. The mountains here are all accessible to the summit, and furnish prospects no less surprising, and with more variety, than the Alps themselves. The tops of the highest Alps are inaccess- ible, being covered with everlasting snow, which, commencing at regular heights above the cultivated tracts, or wooded and ver- dant sides, form indeed the highest contrast in nature. For there may be seen all the variety of climate in one view. To this, however, we oppose the sight of the ocean, from the sum- mits of all the higher mountains, as it appears intersected with promontories, decorated with islands, and animated with navi- gation." — West's Guide, p. 5. GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT, IN Cfiree betters ADDRESSED TO W. WORDSWORTH, Esq. BY THE REV. PROFESSOR SEDGWICK, M.A., F.R.S., &c. WOODWARDIAN PROFESSOR OF GEOLOGY IN THE UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE. THREE LETTERS GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. LETTER I. My dear Sir, — In writing these letters, I am only endea- vouring to perform a promise, made many years since, when I had the happiness of rambling with you through some of the hills and valleys of your native country. One of your greatest works seems to contain a poetic ban against my brethren of the hammer, and some of them may have well deserved your cen- sures : for every science has its minute philosophers, who neither have the will to soar above the material things around them, nor the power of rising to the contemplation of those laws by which Nature binds into union the different portions of her kingdom. But Geology has now a different form and stature from what she had in earlier days: she is the handmaid of labourers who are toiling, as they believe, for the good of their fellow men: she claims kindred with all the offspring of exact knowledge : and she lends no vulgar help to the loftiest investigations of human thought. To reject her altogether, can only be done consistently by one who shuts his eyes to the light of material science ; and this, I know, is no part of your philosophy ; for no one has put forth nobler views of the universality of nature's kingdom than yourself. You wish not her provinces to be dissevered, but each of them to contribute to the good of the whole state. You believe however, and I subscribe to the same creed, that material science is only so far truly good, as it tends to elevate the mind of man ; giving him a higher conception of his capacities and duties, and a better power in following them to their proper end. 186 GEOLOGY OF THE All nature bears the impress of one great Creative Mind, and all parts of knowledge are, therefore, of one kindred and family. In toiling along the narrow path leading to some favourite object of our search, we may perhaps forget the world without us, and so become bigots in our philosophy ; labouring only for our own ends, or at best for that which may seem but for the good of a sect or party. True philosophy has a loftier and better aim. Truth, of whatever kind, she considers as a part of herself, which she has to bring under the government of her will ; and her only end is "the glory of God, and the good of man's estate." But I must leave these high subjects of speculation, and des- cend to more homely matters : and in commencing my task I meet with a great difficulty. I wish to convey some general notion of the structure of the Lake District; and it would be an easy task, even within the compass of one letter, to enumerate the successive great rock formations, to explain their order, and to give a short description of them. But in this way my narrative would inevita- bly be so dry and repulsive, that no one but a professed geol< _ would ever think of reading it, and even such a person would do so with very little profit. I wish to address more general readers — any intelligent traveller whose senses are open to the beauties of the country around him, and who is ready to speculate on such mat- ters of interest as it offers to him. I will therefore endeavour to avoid technical language as far as I am able, and I do not profess to teach, in a few pages, the geology of a most compli- cated country (for that would be an idle attempt); but rather to open the mind to the nature of the subject, and to point out the right way towards a comprehension of some of its general truths. The region, I wish in this way to notice, is bounded on the West, by the sea-coast extending from the mouth of the Eden to the mouth of the Lune — on the North, by the low countrv bordering the Eden, and stretching from the Sol way Firth to the calcareous hills near Brough and Kirkby Stephen — on the East, by the chain of calcareous mountains which ranges from the neighbourhood of Settle (through Ingleborough, Whemside, Wildboar Fell, &c.) to Stainmoor — and on the South, by More- cambe Bay and the lower part of the valley of the Lune. But in the following short sketch, many tracts comprehended within these boundaries, will be hardly noticed. LAKE DISTRICT. 187 By whatever line a good observer enters the region enclosed within the above mentioned limits, he must be struck with the great contrast between the hills and mountains that are arranged on its outskirts, and those which rise up towards its centre. On the outskirts, the mountains have a dull outline, and a continual tendency to a tabular form: but those in the interior have a much more varied figure, and sometimes present outlines which are peaked, jagged, or serrated. This difference arises partly from the nature of the component rocks, and partly from their position : for the more central mountains are chiefly made up of slaty beds, with different degrees of induration, which are highly inclined, and sometimes nearly vertical : while the outer hills are, with limited exceptions, made up of beds which are slightly inclined, and sometimes nearly horizontal. Good instances of these facts may be seen at Kendal Fell and Whitbarrow Scar. They may be studied in all their details by one who ascends the water-courses between Ingleton and the caves in ChapeMe-dale — and perhaps still better in the valleys between Clapham and Horton. In all these places, the great beds of limestone at the base of the calcareous mountains, are seen to rest upon the inclined edges of the slates ; and there are hundreds of other places on the outskirts of the lake-mountains where we may find a similar arrangement of the beds. One w r hose attention has been caught by such phenomena, and who has learned to draw the right conclusion from them, has taken the first firm step in Geology; he has learned that the tabular, calcareous hills, which surround the country of the lakes, are of a newer date than the slate rocks within it. But our observer must not rest contented with this conclusion. A study of the slate rocks must soon convince him, that their component beds were deposited by the sea, and were once nearly horizontal ; — that great disturbing forces afterwards raised them up, and sometimes twisted them into complicated curves, till at length they permanently settled into their present position — and that some of these effects were brought about before the exist- ence of the overlying beds of limestone. Should this remark lead him to speculate on the interval of time that may have elapsed between the periods of the two for- mations he has been considering, he may return to some of those places where they are seen one resting on the other ; and he will s 2 188 GEOLOGY OF THE find that the overlying horizontal beds of limestone are sometimes separated from the contorted or inclined beds of slate, by masses of conglomerate or cemented shingles, containing innumerable abraded fragments and rolled pebbles, derived from the harder beds associated with the slates : and from the condition of the pebbles he may prove that, at the time the conglomerates were formed, many of the ancient slates were as hard and solid as they are at the present day. Hence he will further conclude — that the slate rocks (which contain many regular beds of sea shells and corals) were deposited by the sea during a long lapse of ages — that they were elevated and contorted by great internal movements — that they passed nearly into the solid state in which we find them now — that afterwards, on the outskirts of their ele- vation, they were ground down into great irregular masses and banks of shingle — and that all this succession of events was com- plete before the existence of any part of the overlying calcareous chain. Such facts will teach him, that he has been studying phenomena which not only indicate succession, but were ela- borated during vast intervals of time. Again, the previous conclusion may be fortified, by an ex- amination of the organic remains which are buried in the slate rocks and the overlying limestone. The indications given by the organic forms prove that there had been a complete change in the animal kingdom, between the epochs of the two formations, for they hardly interchange a single species. However incom- prehensible this may be, it never could have been brought about, compatibly with any known operations of nature, without a great change of physical conditions, and a long lapse of ages. What has been stated requires for its comprehension no pre- vious knowledge of Geology : and any man may make the right observations, and draw the right conclusions from them, when he is once awake to the interest of those phenomena which rise up on every side of him, and seem to court his senses. But there are other questions belonging to the rudiments of Geology, which I may now touch upon. The world is not as it was when it came from its Maker's hands. It has been modified by many great revolutions, brought about by an inner mechan- ism of which we very imperfectly comprehend the movements ; but of which we gain a glimpse by studying their effects : and there are many causes still acting on the surface of our globe Xake district. 189 with undiminished power, which are changing, and will continue to change it, so long as it shall last. No one can carefully examine a mountain chain, without being convinced that all its inequalities have been greatly modified ; and that there was a time when many of them had no existence: that many yawning chasms were once closed, and many hollows once filled up by continuous bands of the strata, which still tally, even in their minutest subdivisions, on the opposite sides of a gorge or valley. The calcareous mountains and valleys skirting the lake country, offer the most perfect illustrations of this view: and we learn that these, mountains, though unaffected by some of the great physical revolutions which elevated the older slates, have been lifted out of the sea, rent asunder, and worn down into their present forms, by other causes of like kind, but acting at a later period. I may now mention a theory which is not without its advo- cates, and was once a favourite doctrine with a large school of geologists. This theory assumes that, many of the valleys and great depressions presented by the surface of the earth, have been scooped out simply by the erosion (continued during a countless succession of past ages) of the waters flowing through them. I affirm, in reply — that the erosion of rivers and torrents, however indefinitely continued, could not account for the hollows and inequalities of any one of our mountain chains — that in in- stances, almost without number, w T e find streams making their w r ay through clefts and gorges of solid rock, and escaping towards the sea on one side of a chain, while nature offers them an easy and uninterrupted line of descent on the other side — that the configuration of no high country yet examined is in accordance with this theory — and that, as a general fact, the streams and torrents of our hilly regions have flowed, only during a few thousand years, through the channels in which we now behold them. The lake mountains offer many beautiful illustrations of this conclusion. Let an observer examine the whole course of any river (such, for example, as the Derwent, the Cocker, the Ea- mont, the Lune, or the Kent) from its mouth to the last threads of its ramification through the higher elevations of the country. He may first mark the transporting powers of a river in the for- mation of silt aad marsh lands ; and the way in which the action s 3 190 GEOLOGY OF THE of vegetable life, producing great layers of bog earth and turf, combines with this transporting power in raising up and changing the surface of the country. From the marsh lands spreading out on the coast (and perhaps resting on beds of shells like those now living in the sea), he may ascend to the mid region of the river's course, and mark the fertilizing influence of the waters, and the beautiful fringe of country that borders them. He may ascend still higher, and see the torrents wearing out deep grooves and ploughing furrows in the sides of the mountains ; bearing gravel and rounded stones to the plains below, and exposing the action of the elements. Lastly, he may mark the mourn! rubbish at the foot of all the great precipice-, and the fin of solid rock scattered on the side- of the valley by which !.• ascending. Impressed by such phenomena, produced dur ages by the erosion of the elements, he may perhaps begin to lean towards that false theory I have before alluded to. But other facts must, in their turn, b I, which 1 most important bearing upon the question in debate. While ascend the ramification- of a river, we frequently nth pools of comparatively stagnant water \ and Bometnnei a succes- sion of those tarns and lakes which gi tcb brightness beauty to the country here described* Now all these expanses of nearly stagnant water (for tin- i- the hosfl we must now regard them are the reeipienti of the mud gravel brought down from hills, point, where a mountain -tream enters a tarn or Laki undated a delta of greater or less extent, which is to tell us during what time the t: carrying on their work. It would be idle to conclusion from such rongfa indicators of past time : but they all conspire in one story, and tell us in plain terms, that torrents, in the channels where they now flow, I . push- ing silt and gravel and blocks of .-tone before them, only during a few thousand years. Had river- been playing their present part during an indefinite lapse of ages, not a lake or a tarn could, I believe, have existed in Westmorland and Cumberland. The same conclusion is forced on the mind by the \ alley- of North Wales, and of every hilly country I have yet examined. Should anyone ask, how then were these valleys formed ? We may reply — by every great disturbing force which bai LAKE DISTRICT. 191 on the crust of the earth since the first deposition of the beds which form the mountains. There has been a long succession of physical revolutions ; and to the combined effects of them all, the older rocks must have been more or less exposed. But during the last few thousand years, this part of the world has been almost quiescent, and the pencilling of its outline has only been slightly touched by the erosion of the waters and the gnawing of the elements. Again, we are certain that there have been enormous changes in the relative levels of sea and land. Near the top of Ingleborough, about 2000 feet above the coast level, are beds which were once tranquilly deposited at the bottom of the sea : for they are full of well-preserved shells and corals. The highest parts of Snowdon, are marked by impressions of sea shells ; and similar organic spoils have been found, in some distant chains, at five times the height of any English mountain. Such changes of level, howsoever brought about, must have produced an in- comparably greater transporting power than is shewn in any or- dinary action of the elements. Accordingly, in our own coun- try, we find, heaped on the flanks of the mountains, choking up the valleys, and spreading far and wide along the plains, great masses of alluvial drift, entirely unconnected with any erosion of the existing rivers. We believe that these masses were formed by the sea, during periods when it was changing its level ; and we sometimes (at the height of considerably more than 1000 feet) see proofs of the truth of our hypothesis, by finding sea shells of modern species, imbedded in the heaps of incoherent rubbish which have been drifted over the surface. As far as regards the phenomena just noticed, it is a matter of indifference whether we suppose the sea to have come down from the tops of the mountains, or the mountains to have been pushed up from the bottom of the sea. The latter supposition agrees with the known powers of nature, and I know of no other intel- ligible cause for a change of oceanic level. Mountains are sim- ply the highest points of elevation, marking the places where subterranean forces have pushed upwards with greatest intensity, or met with least resistance. The first movements would throw the horizontal deposits into a dome-shape ; if pushed too far, the outer coating of the dome would crack and burst asunder in dif- ferent directions, according to the conditions of the moving and resisting powers. It might be sometimes in lines diverging from a centre, like the higher valleys of Cumberland. These cracks 192 GEOLOGY OP THE and fissures, whether formed under the sea, or in the open air, would be the first rudiments of future valleys : and it is obvious that at all future times, the abrading power of water would act with most intensity upon the lines of fracture and the projecting ends of the shattered strata. Combining this remark with the fact, that there have been many great oscillations of the land, and a long succession of geological periods marked and dat> the plainest physical records, we need not wonder that the val- leys of Cumberland and Westmorland (tra ej do some of the oldest rocks which have obtained a known place in the chronicles of the earth) shouM -mena not to be explained by any forces, however I inued, which ar seen to act on the surface of the country. One who is alive to the ml touched on, may, when following the Lancaster, or ascending by any our higher mountains of the district, find excellent th of modern river sediment, and m it marine drift. I older gravel often contain- blocks of enormous size, bear ncss to the greatness of thai pow er n hich mo\ i parent seat. Hut there are transported bo\* Iders unc drifted matter, sometimes many tons in ¥ most strange and difficult to subject into its detail- would lead me far b letter. 1 will, th< veiled blocks of Shap granit ict a mi- neral structure to be mi-taken, in may meet with them. The manner in which thej I ed over the surface may be onders : — 1. Setting out from W jxirent rock), they have pal that stretches from Orton Scar to Knipe Scar: we r. scattered, far and wide, upon the 1 the Eden; many of them have been floated to the height of sereral hundred feet above that river, the great Cross Fell ridge; and in one or t\\ o p blocks almost cover the ground, and have been mistaken : the decomposing surface o\' a great mass o\ undistu l 2. They have been carried towards t stranded on the barrier of Stainmoor; but thousan LAKE DISTRICT. 193 some of them several tons in weight, were pushed over that ridge, and then scattered over the plains of Yorkshire. Some floated over the Hambleton hills and were lodged in the valleys near Scarborough : many others were driven over the chalk downs to the coast of Holderness. 3. Bowlders from Wasdale Crag, some of very great size, have descended the valley of the Kent to the head of Morecambe Bay. Such a movement we may comprehend, allowing an ade- quate propelling force of water. But they are not confined to the sides of the water-courses. They have been floated to the tops of hills, and across great chasms and depressions. They are found, in numbers, on the high hills between Kendal and Sedbergh, in positions they could not have reached without crossing valleys, now at least, several hundred feet in depth. I might here notice the bowlders of granite and other hard rock, which have been drifted from the western valleys of Cumber- land over the plains of Lancashire and Cheshire, and to the very tops of the hills between Cheshire and Derbyshire — the gigantic masses of crystalline rock (some of them not less than forty or fifty feet in diameter) which have descended from the sides of Mont Blanc, then crossed the great valley of Switzerland, and afterwards been lodged against the sides, or pushed over the tops, of the Jura chain — and the innumerable Scandinavian bowlders which are scattered over the northern plains of Germany, and the steppes of central Russia. But my limits admit of no details, and I will rest my conclusions on facts supplied by the north of England. Here then is a great difficulty. By what power were these * 4 erratic blocks" scattered over the north of England, and lodged in positions that seem so utterly strange and anomalous? We may readily admit any change in the relative level of land and water ; and therefore any propelling power of oceanic cur- rents consequent upon such a change, and necessary to account for the superficial drift that sometimes contains, as before stated, recent marine shells at the height of considerably more than a thousand feet. But no propelling force of water seems capable of driving gigantic bowlders across ravines and valleys, from mountain top to mountain top ; yet we want an agent capable of doing this, when we endeavour to account for the phenomena above described. 194 GEOLOGY OF THE Late observations on the marine shells derived from the upper portion of the Crag of Norfolk and Suffolk, and other very recent marine deposits on the eastern coast of England, make it pro- bable that, during a period not long before the great diluvial drift, our climate was much colder than it is at the present day. The appearances on the coast of North America have given rise to the same conclusion ; and the labours of M. M. Agassiz, Char- pentier, and other Swiss naturalists, have, I think, clearly proved that, just before the historic time, the glaciers of the Alps were far more extended than they are now. If this be true, may we not suppose that, at the same period, some of the highest valleys of England and Scotland were filled with glaciers, and that numberless blocks of stone which had rolled down the mountain sides, or been torn off from the neighbouring precipi- ces, were then packed up in thick-ribbed ice ? No one will, I trust, be so bold as to affirm that an uninter- rupted glacier could ever have extended from Shap Fells to the coast of Holderness, and borne along the blocks of granite through the whole distance, without any help from the floating power of water. The supposition involves difficulties tenfold greater than are implied in the phenomenon it pretends to account for. The glaciers descending through the valleys of the higher Alps have an enormous transporting power : but there is no such power in a great sheet of ice expanded over a country without mountains, and at a nearly dead level. The period of refrigeration (if such indeed there were) had at length an end ; and we can hardly conceive any general change of climate without some great oscillation in the water level. Let us then suppose the earth to sink, or the ocean to rise up, so that the coast line may reach our higher valleys, and then currents of the sea may float away the ancient glaciers with their imbed- ded fragments of rock. In this way we can conceive it possible that blocks of Shap granite may have been stranded on the side of Cross Fell, or floated over the top of Stainmoor and the crest of the Hambleton hills ; and dropped, by the gradual melting of the icebergs, on the spots where we now find them. Soon after- wards, our island may have gained a condition of equilibrium, and the land may have risen, or the sea descended, to its present level ; in which there appears to have been very little change during the period of modern authentic history. LAKE DISTRICT. 195 The previous hypothesis is not new. It was first started, forty or fifty years since, to explain the transporting power which had brought away millions of bowlders and fragments of rock from the Scandinavian chain, and scattered them over the plains in the north of Germany, and in Poland and a part of Rus- sia. But it seemed to be entangled in the greatest difficulty, for how were we to find the ice, which was the most important part of the machinery ? Geological phenomena appeared to in- dicate a gradual lowering of temperature, from the oldest epoch down to the present period : and hence it was inferred, that in the epoch just before the historic time, the earth must have been warmer than in our days. But no analogy can stand against the direct evidence of facts ; and if there has been a period of re- frigeration, accompanied by a great oscillation in the level of land and water, the glacial theory will then lend itself readily to the transport of the " erratic blocks," and it involves no suppo- sition which is in antagonism with the known workings of nature. For sea and land have changed their relative levels many times ; and icebergs, year by year, do bear away great blocks of stone from the arctic regions, and drop them in the sea many hundred miles from the shores they first started from. But whether the glacial theory truly accounts for all the strange movements of the Shap granite above described, is a question on which I wish not to oifer any decided opinion. One thing at least is certain, that, by whatever cause the