"T 626 R7 :opy 1 LIVERY Md ccc xcviii ^ T6 z:^^ I'".' ■ ', (',. LIVERY li-' r^t-^^ I Z^ -< 1898 New York Rogers Peer c^' Company Outfitters s ■ "^ 2nd COPY, 1898. . ■\\ to -^<^ COPYRIGHT MDCCCXCVUI BY ROGERS TEET & CO 5574 /^J— i/yj ':X The Table of Contents PAGE Coachman and Groom : Dress : Summer AND Winter . . . . -13 Coachman and Groom : Undress: Sum- mer AND Win lER . . . .21 Coachman and Groom : Wet Weather AND Cold . . . . .29 Aprons ....... 33 Butler and Second-man : Morning Af- ternoon AND Evening . -37 Hall-Boy and Page , . . -45 Terms 51 The List of Pictures Frontispiece . Coachman's Body Coat Groom's Body Coat Great Coat Coat ok Whipcord Jacket of Whipcord Overcoat of Whipcord Mackintosh Aprons .... Butler and vSecond Man, Jacket Apron Butler's Dinner Coat . Second Man's Dinner Coat Hall Boy's Suit Page's Suit PAGE 2 12 14 16 20 22 24 28 32 36 38 40 44 46 A Prefatory Note UNTIL the appearance of our little book in the Spring of 1897, there was no written authority on what men servants should wear. To make that book undeniably author- itative, we printed nothing except what both London and New York had tried and approved. Nor did we attempt to conform the book to our stock ; but, on the contrary, we conformed our stock to the book. With some slight revisions, and in a new dress, we again offer it, confident of its welcome — in default of anything better. Our stock comprises livery for both in-door and out-door men — complete to the smallest essential. Yes, it's ready to wear; but, "while we don't make to order, we do make to fit." At the few good livery tailors' you LIVERY would only pay more without getting more — often not as much. No, you needn't live in New York City to deal with us ; we fill orders from anywhere. And whatever you buy, you may re- turn, whether for fact or fancy, and get your money back ; may return it for alterations or exchange, at our expense. Put us to the test. IF we don't have it, we'll get it — will gladly estimate for stock-farms, ho- tels, clubs and others on application. Underwear is not livery ; but we have that, too, and everything else man or boy wears — see our general catalogue, sent on request. Coachman and Groom: Dress: Summer and Winter Coachman and Groom : Dress : Summer and Winter A COACHMAN'S coat should be somewhat longer than a groom's, and should have, in addition, flap pockets — rarely seen on a groom's coat. It should have six buttons in front, two at the waist behind, and two near the bottom of the skirt — the middle but- tons are omitted, so as not to wear the box-seat ; and as a coachman is not sup- posed to leave his seat, the omission is not noticeable. On the other hand, a groom's coat has the full six buttons behind, but only five in front — though six are not out of the way. These buttons should match the har- ness metal trimmings, unless the family be in mourning, when black becomes a necessity. A velvet collar is a matter of individual taste ; but a valentian sham vest must always be worn. Don't let your men wear accordion- 13 LIVERY like boots — the kind that fall down and disappear; but instead, stiff-legged calf- skin, with russet or white tops ; black, of course, if in mourning — the black is pro- duced by covering the boot-top with cloth. The breeches are usually made from white stockinet ; made so that the upper button comes just below the knee-cap. Trousers, when matching the coat, are always permissible; preferable perhaps, on a stormy morning, but not so smart as top boots and breeches. The body- coat, by the way, should be shorter when worn with breeches than with trousers. The scarf most worn is of white linen, already tied (known as a plastron). It's a scarf easily washed. The scarf-pin should be "horsey" in character ; the collar, the regulation coachman collar. The hat, under ordinary conditions, must be silk ; but cockades should never be worn unless the owner is a member of the army, navy, or diplomatic corps ; shoulder knots, fancy collars and cuffs, are not in the best of form. IV LIVERY Gloves are ordinarily tan ; but for calling or park driving, they may be of white buckskin. A COACHMAN'S great-coat, when worn with boots and breeches, should come a trifle below the tops of his boots ; the groom's to the upper button of his breeches. When worn with trousers, the coats should be somewhat longer. As to buttons and flap pockets, what applies to body-coats applies to great-coats as well. Don't allow your man to wear the body- coat under a great-coat ; it's clumsy, and apt to bind his arms. A heavy double-breasted, collarless waistcoat solves the problem. While the dummy box-coat is not highly thought of, it is considered good form with a lady's open carriage to carry great -coats, carefully folded, hanging from the back of the seat, collar down— the men sitting on the skirts. Body-coats, blue, green, black, claret .... $22 oo Trousers g oo Body-coats, drab 25 00 17 LIVERY Trousers $io oo White stockinet breeches 17 oo Monogram or crest buttons, moulded, per dozen i o 00 Large die for buttons 25 00 Small die 1 5 00 Buttons made from die, large, per dozen. . 2 00 Small, per dozen i 00 Coachmen's collars (four shapes), 25c. each, per dozen 2 75 Scarfs (plastrons), 50c. each, per dozen.. 5 50 This is our patent— a Punjab scarf that does not soil in putting- on, nor priclv the fingers. Cuflfs, per dozen $2 75 and 4 50 Coachmen's flannel shirts 2 50 and 3 00 Gloves, craven tan, unlined i 50 " Grip " 2 25 White buckskin , 175 Silk hat 5 00 American calf, stiff-leg boot 9 00 Boot-tops, assorted colors 3 00 Black, cloth-covered 5 50 White ooze skin 6 00 Patent-leather carriage shoe , 5 00 Great-coats of English box-cloth, lined with heavy plaid worsted, green, blue, black, claret, drab 50 00 Cream 55 00 Great-coats of American box-cloth, lined with heavy wool, green, blue, black ... 35 00 Dummy coats 1 8 00 Heavy-weight trousers 12 00 Heavy waistcoat, with sleeves 8 00 Bedford-cord trousers. 12 00 Coachman and Groom : Undress : Summer and Winter Coachman and Groom : Undress : Summer and Winter UNDRESS livery is only another name for "whipcord," whether made into a suit with jacket, or coat with flap pockets. Trousers, or breeches and leggins, may be worn with either jacket or coat, but breeches and leggins are the coachman's preference ; and, for wear about the stable, when exercising horses, or in the saddle, they are preferable. A brown square hat should be worn with the jacket ; while with the coat either a square hat or a coaching hat may be worn — both are equally correct. For country use, it is, at all times, in good taste; also in town, with many of the traps used by men ; on a drag, when used for road purposes ; or on an omnibus, going to the station of a morning, and when taking the children and nurses for an airing. But, so much license is given this livery; LIVERY one's environment has so much weight, that it is next to impossible to indicate any hard and fast rules. We shall always be pleased, however, to advise, if the charac- ter of the trap and the conditions under which it is used are given. THE short top-coat of covert-cloth is the only proper overcoat for undress livery. Brown Oxford-mixed and tan suit, with jacket $24 GO With breeches and leggins, instead of trousers 2)^ 50 Suit with coat 25 00 With breeches and leggins, instead of trousers 33 5° Breeches 11 00 Knee-strapping of buckskin 3 00 Full-strapping 6 00 Leggins 4 00 Box-cloth leggins 6 00 Trousers 7 5° Corduroy trousers, for stable use 4 5° Double-breasted heavy top-coat of covert- cloth 22 00 Single-breasted medium top-coat of cov- ert-cloth 16 00 Coaching hat (bell -crown), black or tan. . 4 00 Square top, black, brown, and tan .... 3 00 23 L I \^ E R Y Whipcord stable cap $150 Coachmen's flannel shirts $2 50 and 3 00 Heavy tan shoes, lace 3 00 and 5 00 Coachmen's collars (four shapes), 25c. each, per dozen 2 75 Punjab scarfs (plastrons), 50c. each, per dozen 5 5^ Cuffs, per dozen $275 and 4 50 Gloves, craven tan, unlined i 50 "Grip " 2 25 Coachman and Groom : Wet Weather and Cold Coachman and Groom : Wet Weather and Cold UNLESS actually storming when leaving the stable, see that your coachman wears a silk hat, for he should always carry a rubber or mackin- tosh coat in the boot of the carriage, with a rubber hat-cover in one pocket and knit gloves in the other. If storming, either a high black cassi- mere or a silk hat, with rubber cover, may be worn — both are correct. Rain or shine, a large umbrella should be carried on a brougham, underneath the skirt ; the handle to protrude on the nigh side of the carriage. It is especially adapted for the use of servants going be- tween carriage and house doors. Coachmen's mackintoshes, roomy enough to go over the heavy box-cloth overcoat, black $15 00 The same, white 25 00 Selby (apron, $8 50) 24 00 (See page 32.) Rubber coats, white or black , 5 oo 29 LIVERY Coach umbrellas $3 75 and $5 00 Storm gloves 50 Gloves, lined 3 00 Storm cassimere hat 5 00 Mackintosh hat-cover 2 00 Rubber hat-cover i 25 Rubber boots, knee 3 50 Storm boots 4 00 Furs : Gloves : Sealskin, colored coon, and bearskin. Capes : Goat, Moufflon, colored coon, and bearskin. Robes: Goat, Moufflon, colored coon, and bearskin. Prices vary so considerably from season to season, that we prefer not to make quotations ; but the prices will be as low, if not lower, than elsewhere. Aprons / >; Aprons APRONS are usually lined with a plain worsted. In the centre of the topis placed a medallion, for a monogram or crest ; to the under side of this medallion is fastened a strap, with which to make fast to the seat-rail. Four-in-hand or tandem aprons should strap around the waist and come to the ankle when standing — they're known as ''Selbys." Aprons should generally match the trim- mings of a carriage. We have a pattern superior to any yet made in this country — it gives less room at the bottom and more at the top, so the wearer can sit on it. Robes to match English box-cloth great- coats, blue, green, black, drab, claret, and cream. Plain, with rounded cor- ners $30 00 Cut with a gore directly in the middle — fit better and don't slip 32 00 33 LIVERY Robes to match, American box-cloth, blue, green, and black. Plain, with rounded corners $22 oo Cut with a gore 24 oo Aprons (with flaps and pockets) to match English box-cloth 40 00 To match American box-cloth 30 00 Summer robes, to match coachman's body- coat, in blue, green, black, or claret . . 15 00 In drab 18 00 Whipcord aprons, unlined 12 00 Lined 1 8 00 Selby aprons (coat, $24 00) 8 50 Butler and Second-man : Morn- ing Afternoon and Evening ^ Butler and Second - man : Morn- ing Afternoon and Evening OF a morning, vuitil after luncheon, the })lain black jacket or coat is permissible for the butler — a black one invariably; the ordinary turned-down or standing collar ; black calfskin or pat- ent-leather shoes — shoes that do not squeak. Permissible, we have said, but not so smart as the Tuxedo coat and low \vaist- coat. Neither is right at luncheon, should there be guests. What applies to the butler, applies to the second-man ; except that the butler usually waits on the table at breakfast and luncheon alone, so the second-man has little use for a Tuxedo ; though, if ever called upon to wait, the Tuxedo is what he should wear. Jackets of broadcloth, nun's-cloth, or white duck should never be worn in pri- vate service. 37 L I \ E R Y Black cheviot suit with jacket $15 00 Black cheviot suit with coat 16 00 Tuxedo coat and waistcoat 18 00 Breakfast jacket of nun's-cloth 225 White duck i 50 Black broadcloth 7 00 Green baize-cloth apron i 50 Gingham apron, with bib 30 White apron, with bib 25 White apron, without bib 25 Black satin and silk ties 50 Shirts, per dozen $11 25 and 1 7 00 Collars, per dozen i 50 and 2 75 CufTs, per dozen 2 75 and 4 50 Noiseless house-shoes, kid or patent .... 2 25 At luncheon, en faniille, a butler is dressed in his morning clothes; if there are guests, he should be dressed the same as when opening the door for afternoon calls, or waiting on the table at dinner : swallow-tail coat and white tie. In case a second-man is employed, the butler is not expected to open the door of an afternoon or evening. If guests are at dinner, white gloves are needed ; otherwise not. If you find it unnecessary to have a second-man, yet have carriages, it is 39 L I V E R Y quite correct (rather smart, in fact) to put your butler on a lady's carriage, es- pecially an oi)en one, for afternoon call- ing and park-driving ; but then he should wear the house-footman's livery with white gloves and silk hat; in cold weather, a great-coat to match that worn by the coachman (for prices see page i8). This coat is kept in the house, not stable — as should be all rugs used by ladies. Putting a butler or house-footman on your carria.ge, could never be taken as a sign that you have no groom ; for many ladies prefer the house-footman, no mat- ter how many servants they have. Dress-suit of. imported worsted $27 00 White cotton gloves, per pair 25 Dress bows,. per dozen I 50 String ties, per dozen 25c. to i 50 AT dinner the. house-footman wears what, to the casual observer, would look like a dress-coat, except that it is ordinarily of a color, chosen as the family color — appearing in all liveries. The waistcoat should be of striped or solid color valentian or plush ; trousers 4* LIVERY of the same material as the coat, piped to match the waistcoat. Coat collar may be of velvet — simply a question of taste. Shirt collar should be white — standing always ; tie white. Black calfskin, or patent-leather shoes — shoes that do not squeak. All the servants of the house should wear the same livery. Club servants dress as do house-foot- men. House-footman's suit of imported livery cloth, green, blue, black, or claret coats $20 00 Trousers 9 00 Waistcoats, striped valentian, all colors . . 5 00 Plush 8 00 Plain valentian 6 00 Monogram or crest buttons, moulded, per dozen 10 00 Large die for buttons..- 25 00 Small die 15 00 Buttons, made from die, large, per dozen . 2 00 Buttons, made from die, small, per dozen i 00 If we don't have it, we'll get it — will gladly estimate for hotels and clubs. Hall-Boy and Page Hall-Boy and Page A HALL-BOY'S coat is a button-to- the-neck coat, and should be kept buttoned ; so there is no necessity for a waistcoat in summer. In winter, for the same reason, any old heavy waistcoat may be used. This calls for a medium-weight cloth, one that can be used the year round — such as tricot. Other and thinner suits will be made if desired. Blue tricot suit $i6 oo Porter or hall-boy's cap i 50 Collars, per dozen $1 50 and 2 75 Cuffs, per dozen 2 75 and 4 50 Black satin and silk ties 50 Calfskin shoe, lace 3 50 Patent-leather Oxford tie 2 25 A PAGE should wear the " buttons " suit, morning, noon, and night ; a high, white collar, white tie, shoes of black calfskin or patent leather, and a cap matching suit when running errands. 45 LIVERY A page may do all the work of a second- man, even to appearing on the box of a carriage (see page 13) ; every- thing except wait on the table. The ''Buttons" of a private house, takes the place of the hall-boy in restau- rants, apartments and the like. Blue tricot suit $12 00 Extra trousers 3 50 Collars, per dozen i 50 Cuffs, per dozen 2 40 String ties, per dozen 25c. to i 50 Cap, blue . . . i 25 Calfskin shoe, lace 3 50 Patent-leather Oxford tie 2 25 Terms Terms ALL purchases are delivered free within one hundred miles of New York City. Mail orders to the amount of $20 or over, if fully paid in advance, are deliv- ered free to any point in the United States. Responsible persons, by giving city references, may remit after receipt of goods ; but may not have goods delivered free, farther than one hundred miles from New York City. In all other cases we send by express, with bill for collection. The express agent is authorized to hold the amount collected for C. O. D. packages for one day, and if you return the goods within that time, to refund the money paid for the goods and the expressage. Beyond the one hundred mile limit, we do not pay expressage, but pay for return LIVERY of money on C. O. D. packages. Should the express agent refuse to allow exami- nation, or to refund the money paid for the goods that prove unsatisfactory, re- turn them by express to us, and we will promptly refund the amount paid for the goods and the express charges. * Parcels weighing four pounds or less, may be mailed for one cent an ounce, and registered for eight cents additional. The ' post-office refuses parcels of more than four pounds. '. Return garments at our expense for alteration; we do not pay for local tailor's work. We make no charge for alterations. For your convenience when in the city, we have three stores on Broadway — one On the corner of Prince, one on the cor- ner of Warren, and one on the corner of Thirty-second Street. But please bear in mind that goods will not be delivered to your servants without a written order. Printed for Rogers Peet & Company under the direction of H. 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