LIBRARY OF CONGRESS D001EHlb71H i c^<^ /y~, ^J-^^UyUa^z.^.e..'^^ DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE, THE INDIAN WAR OF 1551. WHICH LED TO THAT EVENT, BY / LAFAYETTE HOUGHTON BUNNELL, M.D, OF THE MAEIPOSA BATTALION, ONE OF THE DISCOVEEEK8, LATE SURGEON THIRTT- SIXTH REGIMENT WISCONSIN VOLUNTEERS. THIRD EDITION— REVISED AND CORRECTED. Fleming H, Revell Company, -^\^%-'^ NEW YORK: i CHICAGO : 30 Union Square: East. | 148 and 150 Madison St Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1880-1892, hy L. H. BUNNELL, In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. ^ DEDICATION. TO THE HON. CHARLES H. BERET, THIS BOOK, IN REMEMBRANCE OF KINDLY SUGGESTIONS, IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. LIST OF ILLTJSTEATIONS. Maps, Frontispiece. Portrait, I. II. III. The Yosemite Valley, 13 IV. El Capitan 54 V. Bridal Veil Fall, 5y VI. Half Dome 74 VII. North Dome and Royal Arches, .... 75 VIII. Cathedral Rocks, 77 IX. Glacier Fall, 84 X. Vernal Fall and Round Rainbow, .... 86 XI. Nevada Fall, 87 XII. Caches, or Acorn Storehouses 129 XIII. Three Brothers, 146 XIV. Yosemite Fall, 166 XV. Mirror Lake 204 XVI. Sentinel Rock, 213 XVII. The Indian Belle, 219 XVIII. Lake Ten-ie-ya 236 XIX. Lake Starb King, 290 XX. Big Tree, 333 XXi Riding through a Tree Trunk, ... 325 Fire Stick, 134 Tunneled Tree ..••.... 340 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Incidents leading to the Discovery of the Yosemite Valley — INIajor Savage and Savages — Whiskey, Wrangling and War — Skinned Alive — A brisk Fight — Repulse — Another Fight, and Conflagration, ... 1 CHAPTER II. The Governor of California issues a Proclamation — Formation of the Ma- riposa Battalion — The Origin and Cause of the War— New Material Public Documents — A Discussion — Capt. Walker — The Peace Com- missioners' Parley and the Indians' Powwow— The Mysterious Deep Valley— Forward, March! 29 CHAPTER III. March Down the South Fork — Capture of an Indian Village — Hungry Men — An able Surgeon — Snow Storms — Visit of Ten-ie-ya, Chief of the Yo- semites — Commander's Dilemma — Unique Manner of Extrication — Ap proaching the Valley — First View — Sensations Experienced — A Lofty Flight Brought Down, 40 CHAPTER lY. Naming the Valley — Signification and Origin of the Word — Its proper Pro- nunciation : Yo-sem-i-ty — Mr. Hutchings and Yo-Ham-i te — His Resto- ration of Yo-sem-i-te, .57 CHAPTER Y. Date of Discovery — First White Visitors — Captain Joe Walker's Statement Ten-ie-ya's Cunning — Indian Tradition — A Lying Guide — The Ancient Squaw — Destroying Indian Stores — Sweat-houses — The Mourner's Toi- let — Sentiment and Reality — Return to Head-quarters, . . 70 (5) CONTENTS. CHAPTER YI. Out of Provisions— A Hurried Move— Mills where Indians take their Grists, and Pots in which they Boil their Food— Advance Movement of Captain Dill— A Hungry Squad— Enjoyment-Neglect of Duty— Escape of Indians— Following their Trail — A Sorrowful Captain A Mystery made Clear— Duplicity of the Chow-chillas— Vow-chester's Good-will Offering— Return of the Fugitives— Major Savage as Agent and Inter- preter, 92 CHAPTER YII. Campaign against the Chow-chillas— The Favorite Hunting Ground— A Deer Hunt and a Bear Chase — An Accident and an Alarm A Torch- light Pow-wow— Indians Discovered— Captain Boling's Speech— Cross- ing of the San Joaquin— A Line of Battle, its Disappearance— Capture of Indian Village— Jose Key's Funeral-pyre — Following the Trail— A Dilemma — Sentiment and Applause— Returning to Camp— Narrow Es- cape of Captain Boling, ..... . , i05 CHAPTER YIII. A Camp Discussion— War or Police Clubs— Jack Regrets a Lost Opportuni- ty— Boling's Soothing Syrup— A Scribe Criticises and Apologises— In- dian War Material and its Manufacture— The Fire-stick and its Sacred Uses — Arrival at Head-quiuters, 123 CHAPTER IX. Starvation Subdues the Chow-chillas, and the Result is Peace— Captain Kuykendall's Expeditions — An Attack— Rout and Pursuit— A Wise Con- clusion — Freezing out Indians— A Wild Country — ATerrific View— Yo- semite versus King's River— Submission of the Indians South of the San Joaquin — Second Expedition to Yosemite — Daring Scouts — Capture of Indians — Naming of " Three Brothers," 135 CHAPTER X. A General Scout — An Indian Trap — Flying Artillery — A Narrow Escape A Tragic Scene— Fortunes of War— A Scout's Description— Recovery from a Sudden Leap — Surrounded by Enemies, . . . 148 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XI. Camp Amusements— A Lost Arrow— Escape of a Prisoner— Escape of An- ther—Shooting of the Third— Indian Diplomacy— Taking His Own Medicine— Ten-ie ya Captured— Grief over the Death of His Son— Ap- petite under Adverse Circumstances — Poetry Dispelled — Really a Dirty Indian, 1^0 CHAPTER XII. Bears and Other Game— Sickness of Captain Boling — Convalescence and Determination— A Guess at Heights— A Tired Doctor and a Used-up Captain — Surprising an Indian — Know-nothingness, or Native American- ism — A Clue and Discovery— A Short-cut to Camp, but an Unpopular Route, . • 4» -^^^ CHAPTER XIII. The Indian Names— Difficulty of their Interpretation— Circumstances Sug- gesting Names of Vernal, Nevada and Bridal Veil Falls— Mr. Richard- son's Descriptions of the Falls and Round Rainbow— Py-we-ack Mis- placed, and '•IllUuette" an Absurdity— An English Name Suggested for Too-lool-lo-we-ack, Pohono and Tote-ack-ah nti-la — Indian Supersti- tions and Spiritual Views — A Free National Park Desirable — Off on the Trail, . . • 198 CHAPTER XIV. A Mountain Storm— Delay of Supplies— Clams and Ipecac — Arrival of Train— A Cute Indian — Indian Sagacity — A Dangerous Weapon— Cap- ture of Indian Village — An Eloquent Chief — Woman's Rights versus Squaw's Wrongs — A Disturbed Family — A Magnificent Sunrise — On a Slippery Slope — Sentiment and Poetry— Arrival at the Fresno, 222 CHAPTER XY. The Flora of the Region of the Yosemite — General Description of the Val- ley and its Principal Points of Interest, with their Heights, . 240 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVI. A Trip to Los Angeles— Interview with Colonel McKee — A Night at Colonel Fremont's Camp — Management of Cattle by the Colonel's Herdsmen — Back to Los Angeles — Specimen Bricks of the Angel City — An Adaiiioii to our Party — Mules versus Bears — Don Vincente — A Silver Mme -Mosquitos — A Dry Bog — Return to Fresno — Mus- ter out of Battalion — A Proposition, 257 CHAPTER XVII. Captain Boling elected Sheriff — Appointment of Indian Agents — Tenie- ya allowed to Return to Yosemite — Murder of Visitors — Lieut. Moore's Expedition and Punishment of Murderers — Gold Discoveries on Eastern Slope of Sierras — iieport of Expedition, and First Pub- lished Notice of Yosemite — Squatter Sovereignty — Assault upon King's River Reservation — The supposed Leader, Harvey, Denounced by Major Savage — A Rencounter, and Death of Savage — Harvey Liberated by a Friendly Justice — An A.stute Superintendent — A Mass Meeting — A Rival Aspirant — Indians and Indian Policy, . 272 CHAPTER XVIII. Murder of Starkey — Death of Ten-ie ya and Extinction of his Band — A few Surviving Murderers— An Attempt at Reformation — A Failure and Loss of a Mule— Murders of Robert D Sevil and Robert Smith — Alarm of the People — A False Alarm, .... 291 CHAPTER XIX. Engineering and History— Speculation and Discouragement — A New Deal — Wall Street — A Primitive Bridge — First Woman in the Yose- mite— Lady Visitors from Mariposa and Lady Teachers from San Francisco — Measurements of Heights — First Houses and their Occu- pants — A Gay Party and a Glorious Feast. .... 301 CHAPTER XX. Golden Theories and Glaciers 319 CHAPTER XXI. Big Trees of California or Sequoia Gigantea — Their Discovery and Classification 333 CHAPTER XXII. Statistics — Roads and Accommodations — Chapel and Sunday School — Big Farms and Great Resources — A Variety of Products — Long Hoped for Results, 343 Jw»/MM///M^'.¥W/lW//y//juy/w/M^///w^rvJsf//n>///f, ^ ^^^^ -//^^nn^. R 19 E EMITE S iTUAT CO IN TUOLUM NE, M A R_l PO S A, F R E S N 0, \,^ AN~3 MO NiO j COUNTIES, OF qALlFORNIA. ""^;-f/y.iS Anf AfteA h^Aao£o, i ry/r// /'//'<£, ^/^, Sf/rucs. I USMJ.OCH, T4/>tA/^ACH,OAK I C£OA/t, /ifAO/iO/fA,lAl/m^, f S£Oi/0/AS. A /r/? ^fOl»y7^/Af /VAZ/ffSA^r. ?6O0OOAC>t£S I co/w/'oseo or /^Oi/'^^A/A^ rALiers, *r£Affofvs.iAK£s Srfi£A/t7S, £.rc. INTRODUCTION. ,-'> II^TEODUCTIOlSr. The book here presented is the result of an attempt to correct existing errors relative to the Yosemite Valley. It was originally designed to compress the matter in this volume within the limits of a magazine article, but this was soon found to be impracticable; and, at the suggestion of Gen. C. H. Berry, of Winona, Minnesota, it was decided to " write a book." This, too, proved more difficult than at first appeared. Born in Rochester, New York, in 1824, and carried to Western wildj in 1833, the writer's opportunities for culture were limited; and in this, his first attempt at authorship, he has found that the experiences ol frontier life are not the best preparations for literary effort. Beside this, he had mainly to rely upon his own resources, for nothing could be ob- tained in the archives of California that could aid him. It was not deemed just that California should forget the deeds of men who had subdued hei savages, and discovered her most sublime scenery. Having been a mem- ber of the "Mariposa Battalion," and with it when the Yosemite was discovered, having suggested its name, and named many of the princi- pal objects of interest in and near the valley, it seemed a duty that the writer owed his comrades and himself, to give the full history of these events. Many of the facts incident thereto have already been given to the public by the author at various times since 1851, but these have been so mutilated or blended with fiction, that a renewed and full statement of facts concerning that remarkable locality seems desirable. 10 INTRODUCTION. While engagred upon this work, the writer was aided by the scientific researches of Prof. J. D. Whitney, and by the " acute and helpful criti- cism " of Doctor James M. Cole of Winona, Minnesota. Since the publication of the second edition of this book, and an arti- cle from the author's pen in the Century Magazine for September, 1890, numerous letters of approval from old comrades have been received, and a few dates obtained from old official correspondence that will now be introduced. In addition to what may properly belong to this history, there have been introduced a few remarks concerning the habits and character of the Indians. This subject is not entirely new, but the opinions expressed are the results of many years acquaintance with various tribes, and may be useful. The incidental remarks about game will probably interest some. To the author, the study of nature in all its aspects has been interesting. The author's views regarding the gold deposits and glaciers of the Sierras are given simply as suggestions. His especial efforts have been directed to the placing on record events connected with the discovery of the Yosemite, for description of its scenery he feels to be impossible. In reverent acknowledgment of this, there are submitted as a prologue, some lines written while contemplating the grandeur of his subject. WONDER LAND. Hail thee, Yosemite, park of sublimity! Majesty, peerless and old! Ye mountains and cliffs, ye valleys and rifts. Ye cascades and cataracts bold! None, none can divine the wonders of thine, When told of the glorious view! INTRODUCTION. 11 The wild world of light — from " Beatitude's" height, Old " Rock Chief," » "El Capitan" true! Thy head proud and high! white brow to the skyl Thy features the thunderbolts dare! Thou o'erlookest the wall would the boldest appal Who enter Yosemite's " Lair." ^ Fair '• Bridal Veil Fall!" the queen over all, In beauty and grace intertwined! Even now Irom thy height water-rockets of light Dart away, and seem floating in wind! And thou, high " Scho-look! " proud "Ah-wah-ne! " invoke To receive from " Kay-o-pha" * a boon! That flowing from pines, in the region of vines, May temper the heat of bright noon. "Nevada" and " Vernal," emblems eternal Of winter and loveliest Spring, No language so bold the truth can unfold- No pen can thee offerings bring ! And yet dare I say, of the cool "Vernal Spray," In the flash of the bright sun's power, I welcome thy " ring," * though a drenching it bring, The smile of a god 's in the shower! And thou, " Glacier Fall,'" ^ from thy adamant wall, And winter-bound lakes at thy head — Thy nymphs never seen, except by the sheen So fitful from "MiiTor Lake's'' bed. Te North and South Domes, ^ " Ten-ie-ya's" lake homes, "Cloud's Rest." and high " Tis-sa-ack" lone; Mute "Sentinel," "Brothers," ye "Starr King," ye others — 1 "Rock Chief,' a literal translation of " Tote-ack-ah-noo la," rendered " El Cap- itan" in Spanish, from the likeness of a man's head upon thi' wall. * The Yosemites were known as the " Bear tribe." " Ten-ie-ya" was cliief. *"Scho look" is the Indian name for the '■ High Fall ;" "Ah wah ne," the old name of Valley, and " Kay o pha" (the sky), the name of highest or snow-clad peaks. * At intervals at the Vernal a round rainbow is formed, perfect as a finger rng. 6 " Glacier Fall." in place of " Too loo lo-we ack." 6 "Sentinel Dome" was known to the disc >verers as the "South Dome, " and " Tls sa ack," meaning cleft rock, as the " Half Dome." 12 INTRODUCTION. Oh! what of the past have ye known? To you has been given the mission from heaven To watch through the ages of earth ! Your presence sublime is the chronicled time. From the teon the world had birth! Looking up the valley from a height of about 1,000 feet above the Merced River, and above sea level 5,000 feet, giving some faint idea of the beauty, grand- eur and masrnitude of this mas:- nificent work of nature. DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE. DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE. CHAPTER I. Incidents leading to the discovery of the Yosemite Valley — Majjor Savage and Savages — Whiskey, wrangling and War — Skinned AUve — A brisk Fight — Repulse — Another Fight, and Conflagration. During the winter of 1849-50, while ascending the old Bear Yalley trail from Ridley's ferry, on the Merced river, my attention was attracted to the stupendous rocky peaks of the Sierra Nevadas. In the distance an immense ciili" loomed, apparently to the summit of the mountains. Al- though familiar with nature in her wildest moods, I looked upon this awe-inspiring column with wonder and admira- tion. While vainly endeavoring to realize its peculiar prominence and vast proportions, I turned from it with re- luctance to resume the search for coveted gold; but the im- pressions of that scene were indelibly fixed in my memory. Whenever an opportunity afforded, I made inquiries con- cerning the scenery of that locality. But few of the miners had noticed any of its special peculiarities. On a second visit to Ridley's, not long after, that towering mountain which had so profoundly interested me was invisible, an in- tervening haze obscuring it from view. A year or more passed before the mysteries of this wonderful land were sat- isfactorily solved. DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE, During the winter of 1850-51, 1 was attached to an expe- dition that made the first discovery of what is now known as the Yosemite Yallej. While entering it. 1 saw at a glance that the reality of my sublime vision at Ridley's ferry, forty miles away, was before me. The locality of the mysterious cliff was there revealed — its proportions en- larged and perfected. The discovery of this remarkable region was an event in- timately connected with the history of the early settlement of that portion of California. During 1850, the Indians in Mariposa county, which at that date included all the terri- tory south of the divide of the Tuolumne and Merced riv- ers within the valley proper of the San Joaquin, became very troublesome to the miners and settlers. Their depre- dations and murderous assaults were continued until the arrival of the United States Indian commissioners, in 1851, when the general government assumed control over them. Through the management of the commissioners, treaties were made, and many of these Indians were transferred to locations reserved for their special occupancy. It was in the early days of tlie operations of this commis- sion that the Yosemite Yalley was first entered by a com- mand virtually employed to perform the special police du- ties of capturing and bringing the Indians before these rep- resentatives of the government, in order that treaties might be made with them. These wards of the general govern- ment were provided with supplies at the expense of the public treasury : provided that they confined themselves to the reservations selected for tliem. My recollections of those early days are from personal observations and information derived from the earlier set- tlers of the San Joaquin valley, with whom I was person- ally acquainted in the mining camps, and through business connections; and also from comrades in the Indian war of AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 2b 1850-51. Among these settlers was one James D. Savage, a trader, who in 1849-50 was located in the mountains near the mouth of the South Fork of the Merced river, some fifteen miles below the Yosemite vallej. At this point, engaged in gold mining, he had employed a p Tty of native Indians. Early in the season of 1850 his tr.i>,ing post and mining cam]) were attacked by a band of the YofCiuite Indians. This tribe, or band, claimed the territory' in that vicin'ty, and attempted to drive Savage off. Their real object, howi ver, was plunder. They were con- sidered treacherous and dangerous, and were very trouble- some to the m.ners generally. Savage and his Indian miners repulsed the attack and dn^ve off the marauders, but from this occurrence he no lonoer deemed this 1 cation desirable. Being fully aware of the murderous propensities of liis assailants, he removed to Mariposa Creek, not far from the junction of the Aqua Fria, and near to the site of the old stone fort. So(jn after, he established a branch post on the Fresno, where the min- ing prospects became most encouraging, as the high water subsided in that stream. This branch station was placed in charge of a man by the name of Greeley. At these establishments Savage soon built up a prosper- ous business. He exchanged his goods at enormous profits for the gold obtained from his Indian miners. The white miners and ])rospecting parties also submitted to his de- mands rather than lose time by going to Mariposa village. The value of his patrons' time was thus made a source of revenue. As the season advanced, this hardy pioneer of commerce rapidly increased his wealth, but in the midst of renewed prosperity he learned that another cloud was gathering over him. One of his five squaws assured him that a combination was maturing among the mountain Indians, to kill or drive all the wlute men from the coun- 8a DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE, try, and plunder them of their property. To strengthen his influence over the principal tribes, Savage had, accord- ing to the custom of many mountain men, taken wives from among them, supposing his personal safety would be some- what improved by so doing. This is the old story of the prosperous Indian trader. Rumor also came from his Indian miners, that the Yosemites threatened to come down on him again for the purpose of plunder, and that they were urging other tribes to join them. These reports he alfected to disregard, but quietly cau- tioned the miners to guard against marauders. He also sent word to the leading men in the settlements that hostilities were threatened, and advised preparations against a surpi-ise. At his trading posts he treated the rumors with indiffer- ence, but instructed the men in his employ to be continu- ally on their guard in his absence. Stating that he was go- ing to " the Bay''' for a stock of goods, he started for San Francisco, taking with him two Indian wives, and a chief of some note and influence who professed great friendship. This Indian, Jose Juarez, was in reality one of the lead- ing spirits in arousing hostilities against the whites. Notwithstanding Juarez appeared to show regard for Sav- age, the trader had doubts of his sincerity, but, as he had no fears of personal injury, he carefully kept his suspicions to himself. The real object Savage had in making this trip was to place in a safe locality a large amount of gold which he had on hand; and he took the chief to impress him with the futility of any attempted outbreak by his people. He hoped that a visit to Stockton and San Francisco, where Jose could see the numbers and superiority of the whites, would so impress him that on his return to the mountains his report would deter the Indians from their proposed hos- tilities. AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. The trip was made without any incidents of importance, but, to Savage's disappointment and regret, Jose developed an instinctive love for whiskey, and having been liberally supplied with gold, he invested heavily in that favorite In- dian beverage, and was stupidly drunk nearly all the time he vvas in the city. Becoming disgusted with Jose's frequent intoxication. Savage expressed in emphatic terms his disapprobation of such a course. Jose at once became greatly excited, and forgetting his usual reserve, retorted in abusive epithets, and disclosed his secret of the intended war against the whites. Savage also lost his self-control, and with a blow felled the drunken Indian to the ground. Jose arose apparently sober, and from that time maintained a silent and dignified demeanor. After witnessing the celebration of the admis- sion of the State into the Union — which by appointment occurred on October 29th, 1850, though the act of admis- sion passed Congress on the 9th of September of that year — and making arrangements to have goods forwarded as he should order them, Savage started back with his dusky re- tainers for Mariposa. On his arrival at Quartzberg, he learned that the Kah-we-ah Indians were exacting tribute from the immigrants passing through their territory, and soon after his return a man by the name of Moore was killed not far from his Mariposa Station. From tlie information here received, and reported murders of emi- grants, he scented danger to himself. Learning that the Indians were too numerous at " Cassady's Bar," on the San- Joaquin, and in the vicinity of his Fresno Station, he at once, with characteristic promptness and courage, took his course direct to that post. He found, on arriving there, that all was quiet, although some Indians were about, as if for trading purposes. Among them were Pon-wat-chee 2 DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITE, and Yow-ches-ter, two Indian cliiefs known to be friendly. The trader had taken two of his wives from their tribes. Savage greeted all with his customary salutation. Leav- ing his squaws to confer with their friends and to provide for their own accommodations, he quietly examined the memoranda of his agent, and the supply of goods on hand. With an appearance of great indifference, he listened to the business reports and gossip of Greeley, who informed him that Indians from different tribes had come in but had brought but little gold. To assure himself of the progress made by the Indians in forming a union among themselves, he called those present around him in front of his store, and passed the friendly pipe. After the usual silence and delay. Savage said: "I know that all about me are my friends. and as a friend to all, I wish to have a talk with you before I go back to my home on the Mariposa, from which I have been a long distance away, but where I could not stop until I had warned you. " I know that some of the Indians do not wish to be friends with the white men, and that they are trying to unite the different tribes for the purpose of a war. It is better for the Indians and white men to be friends. If the Ind- ians make war on the white men, every tribe will be exter- minated; not one will be left. I liave just been where the white men are more numerous than the wasps and ants; and if war is made and the Americans are aroused to anger, every Indian engaged in the war will be killed before the whites will be satisfied." In a firm and impressive manner Savage laid before them the damaging effects of a war, and the advantages to all of a continued peaceful intercourse. His knowledge of Indian language was sufhcient to make his remarks clearly understood, and they were apparently well received. Not supposing that Jose would attempt there to advocate AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. any of his schemes, the trader remarked, as he finished his speech: " A chief who has returned with me from the place wliere the white men are so numerous, can tell that what I have said is true — Jose Juarez — jou all know, and will be- lieve him when he tells you the white men are more pow- erful than the Indians." The cunning chief with much dignity, deliberately stepped forward, with more assurance than he had shown since the belligerent occurrence at the bay, and spoke with more en- ergy than Savage had anticipated. He commenced by saying: "Oar brother has told his Indian relatives much that is truth; we have seen many people; the white men are very numer- ous; but the white men we saw on our visit are of many tribes; they are not like the tribe that dig gold in the moun- tains." He then gave an absurd description of what he had seen while below, and said: "Tliose white tribes will not come to the mountains. They will not help the gold dig- gers if the Indians make war against them. If the gold diggers go to the white tribes in the big village they give their gold fur strong water and games; when they have no more gold the white tribes drive the gold-diggers back to the mountains with clubs. They strike them down (refer- ring to the police), as your white relative struck me while I was with him." (His vindictive glance assured Savage that the blow was not foro^otten or foro-iven.) " The white tribes will not go to war with the Indians in the mountains. They cannot bring their big ships and big guns to us; we have no cause to fear them. They will not injure us." To Savage's extreme surprise, he then boldly advocated an immediate war upon the whites, assuring his listeners that, as all the territor}'- belonged to the Indians, if the tribes would unite the whole tribe of ffold-dio:trers could be easily driven from their country ; but, if the gold-diggers should stay longer, their numbers will be too great to make 5i DISCOVERY OF THE Y OS EMITS, war upon, and the Indians would finally be destroyed. In Ill's speech Jose evinced a keenness of observation inconsist- aiit with his apparent drunken stupidity. Savage had thought this stupidity sometimes assumed. He now felt assured that the chief had expected thereby to learn his plans. To the writer there seems to be nothing inconsist- ent with Indian craft, keenness of observation and love of revenge in Jose's conduct, though he was frequently drunk while at "the bay." While Jose was speaking other In- dians had joined the circle around him. Their expressions of approval indicated the effects of his speech. During this time Savage had been seated on a log in front of the store, a quiet listener. When Jose concluded, the trader arose, and stepping forward, calmly addressed the relatives of his wives and the Indians in whom he still felt confidence. The earnest and positive speech of the cunning chief had greatly surprised him ; he was somewhat discouraged at the approval with which it had been received; but with great self-possession, he replied, "I have listened very attentively to what the chief, who went with me as my friend, has been saying to you. I have heard all he has said. He has told you of many things that he saw. He has told you some truth. He has told of many things which he knows noth- ing about. He has told you of things he saw in his dreams, while "strong water " made him sleep. The white men we saw there are all of the same tribe as the gold-diggers here among the mountains. He has told you he saw white men that were pale, and had tall hats on their heads, with cloth- ing diflferent from the gold-diggers. This was truth, but they are all brothers, all of one tribe. All can wear the clothing of the gold-diggers; all can climb the mountains, and if war is made on the gold-diggers, the white men will come and fight against the Indians, Their numbers will be so great, that every tribe will be destroyed that joins in a war against them." AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 5 Jose observing; the effects of these statements, excitedly interrupted Savage by entering the circle, exclaiming: "lie is telling yon words that are not true. His tongue is forked and crooked. He is telling lies to his Indian relatives. This trader is not a friend to the Indians. He is not our brother. He will help the white gold-diggers to drive the Indians from their country. We can now drive them from among us, and if the other white tribes should come to their help, we will go to the mountains; if they follow after us, they cannot find us; none of them will come back; we will kill them with arrows and with rocks." While Jose was thus vociferously haranguing, other Indians came into the grounds, and the crisis was approaching. As Jose Juarez ended his speech, Jose Rey, another influential chief and prominent leader, walked proudly into the now enlarged circle, followed by his suite of treacherous Chow-chillas, amonff whom were Tom-Kit and Frederico. He keenlv glanced about him, and assuming a grandly tragic style, at once commenced a speech by saying: " My people are now ready to begin a war against the white gold-diggers. If all the tribes will be as one tribe, and join with us, we will drive all the white men from our mountains. If all the tribes will go together, the white men will run from us, and leave their property behind them. The tribes who join in with my people will be the first to secure the property of the gold-diggers." The dignity and eloquent style of Jose Key controlled the attention of the Indians. This appeal to their cupidity in- terested them; a common desire for plunder would be the strongest inducement to unite against the whites. Savage was now fully aware that he had been defeated at this impromptu council he had himself organized, and at once withdrew to prepare for the hostilities he was sure would soon follow. As soon as the Indians dispersed, he DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE, started with his squaws for home, and again gave the settlers warning of what was threatened and would soon be at- tempted. These occurrences were narrated to me by Savage. The incidents of the council at the Fresno Station were given during the familiar conversations of our intimate acquaint- anceship. The Indian speeches here qnoA'd are like all others of their kind, really but poor imitations. The Indian is very figurative in his language. If a literal translation were attempted his speeches would seem so disjointed and inverted in their methods of expression, that their signifi- cation could scarcely be understood; hence onlj^ the sub- stance is here given. The reports from Savage were considered by the miners and settlers as absurd. It was generally known that moun- tain men of Savage's class were inclined to adopt the vaga- ries and superstitions of the Indians with whom they were associated; and therefore bnt little attention was given to the trader's warnings. It was believed that he had listened to the blatant palaver of a few vagabond " Digger Indians," and that the threatened hostilities were only a quarrel be- tween Savage and his Indian miners, or with some of his Indian associates. Cassady, a rival trader, especially scoffed at the idea of danger, and took no precautions to guard him- self or establishment. The settlers of Indian Gulch and Quartzberg were, however, soon after startled by a report brought by one of Savage's men called " Long-haired Browm," that the traders' store on the Fresno had been robbed, and all connected with it killed except himself. Brown had been warned by an Indian he had favored, known as Polonio-Arosa, but notwithstanding this aid, he had to take the chances of a vigorous pursuit. Brown was a large man of great strength and activity, and as he said, had dodged their arrows and distanced his AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 66 pursuers in the race. Close upon the heels of this report, carae a rumor from the miners' camp on Mariposa creek, that Savage's establishment at that place had also been plun- dered and burned, and all connected with it killed. This report was soon after corrected by the appearance of the trader at Quartzberg. Savage was highly offended at the in- difference with wliich his cautions had been received at Mari- posa, and by the county authorities, then located at Agua-Fria. He stated that his wives had assured him that a i-aid was about to be made on his establishment, and warned him of the danger of a surprise. He had at once sought aid from personal friends at Horse Shoe Bend — where he had once traded — to remove or protect his property. While he was absent, Greeley, Stiffner and Kennedy had been killed, his property plundered and burned, and his wives carried off by their own people. These squaws had been importuned to leave the trader, but had been faithful to his interests. The excitement of these occurrences had not subsided be- fore news came of the murder of Cassady and four men near the San Joaquin. Another murderous assault was soon after reported by an immigrant who arrived at Cassady's Bar, on the upper crossing of the San Joaquin. His shat- tered arm and panting horse excited the sympathies of the settlers, and aroused the whole community. The w^ounded man was provided for, and a party at once started for the " Four Creeks," where he had left his comrades fighting the Indians. The arm of the wounded man was amputated by Dr. Lew- is Leach, of St. Louis, Mo., an immigrant who had but just come in over the same route. The name of the wounded man was Frank W. Boden. He stated that his party — four men, I believe, besides himself — had halted at the " Four Creeks" to rest and graze their horses, and while there a band of Indians (Ka-we-ahs) came down from their village 7rt DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE, and demanded tribute for crossing their territory. Looking upon the demand as a new form of Indian beggary, but lit- tle attention was paid to them. After considerable banter- ing talk, some tobacco was given them, and they went off grumbling and threatening. Boden said: "After the In- dians left we talked over the matter for a while; none re- garded the demand of the ' Indian tax-gathers' but as a triv- ial affair. I then mounted my horse and rode oft" in the di- rection in which we had seen some antelopes as we came on. I had not gone far before I heard tiring in the direction of our halting-place. " Riding back, I saw the house near which I had left my comrades was surrounded by yelling demons. I was dis- covered by them at the same instant, and some of them dashed toward me. Seeing no possibility of joining my party, I turned and struck my horse with the spurs, but be- fore I could get beyond range of their arrows, I felt a be- numbing sensation in my arm, which dropped powerless. Seeing that my arm was shattered or broken, I thought I would give them one shot at least before I fell into their hands. Checking my horse with some diflicultj^ I turned so as to rest my rifle across my broken arm, and took sight on the nearest of my pursuers, who halted at the same time." At this point in his story the hardy adventurer remarked with a twinkle of satisfaction in his bright, keen eye: "I never took better aim in my life. That Indian died sud- denly. Another dash was made for me. My horse did not now need the spurs, he seemed to be aware that we must leave that locality as soon as possible, and speedily distanc- ed them all. As soon as the first excitement was over I suffered excrutiating pain in my arm. My rifle being use- less to me, I broke it against a tree and threw it away. I then took the bridle rein in my teeth and carried the broken arm in my other hand." AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. The party that went out to the place of attack — Dr, Thomas Pajn's, now Visalia, named for Kat. Vice, an ac- quaintance of the writer — found there the mangled bodies of Boden's four companions. One of these, it was shown bj unmistakable evidence, had been skinned by the merci- less liends while yet alive. These men had doubtless made a stout resistance. Like brave men they had fought for their lives, and caused, no doubt, a heavy loss to tlieir assailants. This, with their re- fusal to comply with the demand for tribute, was the motive for such wolfish barbarity. It now became necessary that some prompt action should be taken for general protection. E-umors of other depreda- dations and murders alarmed the inhabitants of Mariposa county. Authentic statements of these events were at once forwarded to Governor John McDougall, by the sheriff and other officials, and citizens, urging the immediate adop- tion of some measures on the part of the State for the de- fense of the people. Raids upon the miners' camps and the " Ranch" of the settlers had become so frequent that on its being rumored that the Indians were concentrating for more extensive operations, a party, without waiting for any official authority, collected and started out to check the rav- ages of the marauders that were found gathering among the foothills. With but limited supplies, and almost with- out organization, this party made a rapid and toilsome march among the densely wooded mountains in pursuit of the savages, who, upon report of our movements, were now retreating. This party came up with the Indians at a point high up on the Fresno. In the skirmish which followed a Lt. Skeane was killed, William Little was seriously wounded and some others slightly injured. This engagement, which occurred on January 11th, 1851, was not a very satisfactory one to the whites. The necessity of a more efficient organization was shown. 8 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE, The Indians had here taken all the advantages of position and successfully repulsed the attack of the whites, who withdrew, and allowed the former to continue their course. Some of the party returned to the settlements for sup- plies and reinforcements, taking with them the wounded. Those who remained, reorganized, and leisurely followed the Indians to near the North Fork of the San Joaquin river, where they had encamped on a round rugged moun- tain covered with a dense undertrrowth — oaks and dicfo-er pine. Here, protected by the sheltaring rocks and trees, they defiantly taunted the whites with cowardice and their late defeat. They boasted of their robberies and murders, and called upon Savage to come out where he could be killed. In every possible manner they expressed their contempt. Savage — who had joined the expedition — be- came very much exasperated, and at first favored an imme- diate assault, but wiser counsels prevailed, and by Captain Boling's prudent advice. Savage kept himself in reserve, knowing that he would be an especial mark, and as Doling had said, his knowledge of the Indians and their territory could not very well be dispensed with. This course did not please all, and, as might have been expected, then and afterwards disparaging remarks were made. The leaders in exciting hostilities against the whites were Jose Juarez and Jose Rey. The bands collected on this mountain were under the leade ship of Jose Rey, who was also known by his English name of " King Joseph." The tribes repre>;ented were the Chow-chilla, Cliook-clian-cie, Noot-chu, Ho-nah-chee, Po-to-en-cie, Po-ho-no-chee, Kah- we-ah and Tosemite. The number of fighting men or war- riors was estimated at about 500, while that of the whites did not exceed 100. It was late in the day when the Indians were discovered. A general council was held, and it was decided that no at- AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. Sh tack should be made until their position could be studied, and the probable number to be encountered, ascertained. Captain Kny-ken-dall, Lieutenants Doss and Chandler, and others, volunteered to make a reconnoissance before night should interfere with their purpose. The scouting party was not noticed until on its return, when it was followed back to camp by the Indians, where during nearly the whole night their derisive shouts and menaces in broken Spanish and native American., made in- cessant vigilance of the whole camp a necessity. A council was again called to agree on the plan to be adopted. This council of war was general; official position was disregarded except to carry out the decisions of the party or command. The scouts had discovered that this rendezvous was an old Indian village as well as stronghold. The plan was that an attack should be undertaken at day- light, and that an effort should be made to set fire to the village, preliminary to the general assault. This plan was strongly advocated by the more experienced ones who had seen service in Mexico and in Indian warfare. Kuy-ken-dall, Doss and Chandler, "as brave men as ever grew," seemed to vie with each other for the leadership, and at starting Kuy-ken-dall seemed to be in command, but when the assault was made, Chandler's elan carried him ahead of all, and he thus became the leader indeed. But thirty-six men M^ere detached for the preliminary service. Everything being arranged tb.e attacking party started before daylight. The Indians had but a little while before ceased their annoyances around the camp. The re- serve under Savage and Boliiig were to follow more lei- surely. Kuy-ken-dall's command reached the Indian camp without being discovered. Without the least delay the men dashed in and with brands from the camp fires, set the wigwams burning, and at the same time madly attacked 9a DISCOVERT OF THE YOSEMITE, tlie now alarmed camp. The light combustible materials of which the wigwams were composed were soon in a bright blaze. So rapid and so sudden were the charges made, that the panic-stricken warriors at once fled from their stronghold. Jose Rev w^as among the first shot down. The Indians made a rallj to recover tlieir leader; Chandler observing them, shouted "Charge, boys! Charge!!'* Dis- charging another vollej', the men rushed forward. The savages turned and fled down the mountain, answer- ing back the shout of Chandler to charge by replj'ing, "Chargee!" "Chargee!" as they disappeared. The whole camp was routed, and sought safety among the rocks and brush, and by flight. This was an unexpected result. The whole transaction had been so quickly and recklessly done that the reserve under Boling and Savage had no opportunity to participate in the assault, and but imperfect!}^ witnessed the scattering of the terrified warriors. Kuy-ken-dall, especially, displayed a coolness and valor entitling him to command, though out- run by Chandler in the assault. The fire from the burning village spread so rapidly down the mountain side toward our camp as to endanger its safet}-. While the whites were saving their camp supplies, the Indians under cover of the smoke escaped. No prisoners were taken; twenty- three were killed; the number wounded was never known. Of the settlers, but one was really wounded, though several were scorched and bruised in the fight. None were killed. The scattering flight of the Indians made a further pursuit uncertain. The supplies were too limited for an extended chase; and as none had reached the little army from those who had returned, and time would be lost in waiting, it was decided to return to the settlements before taking any other active measures. The return was accom- plished without interruption. AND INDIAN WAR OF l&ol. CHAPTER II. The Governor of California issues a Proclamation — Formation of the Ma- riposa Battalion — The Origin and Cause of the War— New Material Public Documents— A Discussion — Capt. Walker — The Peace Com- missioners' Parley and the Indians' Powwow— The Mysterious Deep Valley — Forward, March! The State authorities had in the meantime become aroused. The reports of Indian depredations multiplied, and a general uprising was for a time threatened. Proclamations were therefore issued by Gov. McDougal, calling for volunteers, to prevent further outrages and to punish the marauders. Our impromptu organization formed the nucleus of the volunteer force in Mariposa county, as a large majority of the men at once enlisted. Another bat- talion was organized for the region of Los Angelos. Our new organization, when full, niimbered two hundred mount- ed men. This was accomplished in time, by Major Savage riding over to the San Joaquin, and bringing back men from Cassady's Bar. The date from which we were regularly mustered into the service was January 24th, 1851. The volnnteers provided their own horses and equipments. The camp supplies and baggage trains were furnished by the State. This military force was called into existence by the State authorities, but by act of Congress its maintenance was at the expense of the general government, under direction of Indian commis- sioners. Major Ben McCullough was offered the command of this battalion, but he declined it. This position was urged upon him with the supposition that if he accepted it the men who had once served under him would be induced 10 DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE, to enlist — many of tlie " Texan Rangers" being residents of Mariposa county. Major McCullough was at that time employed as Collec- tor of " Foreign Miners' Tax," a very lucrative office. As a personal acquaintance, he stated to me that the position was not one that would bring him honor or pecuniary ad- vantages. That he had no desire to leave a good position, except for one more profitable. The officers, chosen by the men, recommended to and commissioned by Governor McDougall, were James D. Savage, as Major; John J. Kuy-ken-dall, John Boling, and William Dill, as Captains; M. B. Lewis, as Adjutant; John I. Scott, Reuben T. Chandler, and Hugh W. Farrell, as First Lieutentants; Robert E. Russell, as Sergeant Major; Dr. A. Bronson, as Surgeon, and Drs. Pfifer and Black as Assistant Surgeons. A few changes of Lieutenants and subordinate officers were afterward made. Upon the resignation of Surgeon Bronson, Dr. Lewis Leach, was appointed to fill the vacancy. While writing up these recollections, in order to verify my dates, which I knew were not always chronologically ex- act, 1 addressed letters to the State departments of California making inquiries relative to the "Mariposa Battalion," organized in 1851. In answer to my inquiry concerning these known facts, the following was received from Adj. General L. H. Foot. He says: "The records of this of- fice, both written and printed, are so incomplete, tliat I am not aware from consulting them that the organization to which you allude had existence." It is a matter of regret that the history of the early settlement of California is, to so great an extent, traditionary, without public records of many important events. It is not deemed just that the faithful services of the " Mariposa Battalion," should be forgotten with the fading memory of the pioneers of that AND INDIAN WAR OF 1851. 10b period. Tliere is in the State, an almost entire absence of any public record of the "Indian war," of which the dis- covery of the Yosemite valley was an important epis