Book .V\^6 Entered, according to Act of Congress, m the year one thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, by Harper & Brothers, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of New York. ^\\ \ I TO THOSE LIVING, AND TUE itlemorg of tijoac Pcair, KILLED BY THE APACHE INDIANS IN THE STRUGGLE TO REDEEM ARIZONA FROM BARBARISM, WHO HAVE BEEN FOR YEARS MY FAST FRIENDS THROUGH GOOD AND EVIL REPORT, 2ri)ese 3i3a2cs arc ^ffecttcnatela? ©etiicateli. PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION/'^ Since the delivery of the following address, more than four years ago, I have made several journeys in Sonora and Arizona, and have resided about a year at my place, the '' Mowry Silver Mines," in Arizona. In reading over the , proof-sheets of this new edition, I find nothing to alter or correct in essential fact. The telegraph has just brought the intelligence of the Ter- ritorial organization of Arizona by the U. S. Congress, and the appointment of the governor, judges, and other officials. It is somewhat gratifying to me to know that gentlemen who, four years since, denied the neces- sity of this measure, and opposed it by vote and influ- ence most virulently on political grounds, have seen the error of their ways. By reproducing my argu- ments and authorities, and even my words verbatim et literatim^ they have paid a tribute to truth the more valuable that it comes from an unexpected source. As I had then and have now an ambition for Arizona far beyond private or personal views, I thank these gentlemen heartily, and make them welcome to "all the thunder" and all the political honors they have stolen from me. The limits of an evening address necessarily pre- cluded details, and obliged me to confine myself to general and prominent characteristics. The Appendix * Published in 1863 by Roman and Company, San Francisco. viii Preface to the Second Edition. to this edition supplies this deficiency^ and will, I trust, be found sufficiently full to make the work valuable for permanent use and future reference. I claim for the following pages but one merit — ac- curacy of statement and an entire absence of exaggera- tion. No pains have been spared in verifying, from every valuable source, the facts presented, and I chal- lenge the closest criticism on this point. The route laid down for the railroad from El Paso to Guaymas is only intended to indicate the general direction. It is made to run through the Gaudalupe Pass, because we know from actual survey tl^at this Pass is practi- cable. I am informed, however, that a more southerly pass through the Sierra Madre exists, which would much shorten the distance from El Paso to Arizpe. General C. P. Stone informed me three years since that he was convinced of the existence of this pass. The great opportunities now existing for permanent and richly paying investments in Sonora and Arizona can not be too highly estimated. Every facility is of- fered by the government for the development of the mines by foreign capitalists. The old prejudice against Americans is fast disappearing under the influence of contact and mutual interest. The owners of valuable mines are ready and willing to associate themselves with respectable Americans on liberal terms. The character of the men at this moment engaging in min- ing in Sonora and Arizona is a sure guarantee of hon- est and efficient management — a certain assurance of large returns. In answer to many questions respecting the present governor of Sonora — Senor Don Ygnacio Pesqueira — I am glad to have the opportunity of saying that dur- Preface to the Second Edition. ix ing several years of intercourse with him, more or less intimate, I have found him honorable, liberal, and es- pecially desirous of forwarding, in every legitimate manner, the Avishes and views of Americans whose en- terprise had led them to Sonora. He said recently, in conversation with several gentlemen, "I care nothing for the political views of Americans who come here in good faith to assist us in developing the mineral wealth of the state. They s^all have from me all the assist- ance that my own influence and the government can afford." I am sure I am doing only an act of justice in acknowledging many kindnesses from this gentle- man, wdiom I am proud to call my friend. Being neither " a prophet, nor the son of a prophet," I have carefully avoided political speculations in refer- ence to Sonora. Thick-coming and unforeseen events would be almost certain to " write down an ass" the man who is bold enough to predict now^adays. One thing, however, is sure — Sonora has taken a step in an advancing career which will not be impeded. Capital and intelligence have again gained a footing in this beautiful and wealthy state, and her course will be rapid to prosperity and power. The organization of Arizona, with the establishment of courts, and the presence of a large military force, will restore order, guarantee capital and labor, and subdue or exterminate the hostile Apaches. I beg to make my sincere acknowledgments to the gentlemen who have favored me with notes, and espe- cially to Don Juan A. Eobinson, of Sonora, and Mr. J. A. Peck, of San Francisco, for valuable manuscript notes of mining localities in Sonora, which I have not visited. S. M. A 2 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. ADDRESS BEFORE THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL AND STATISTICAL SOCIETY, NEW YORK, FEBRUARY 3, 1859. Arizona : Origin of the Name. — Boundaries. — Outlet. — The Gadsden Purchase. — Early Settlements. — Mormons. — Mines. — Soil and Pro- ductions. — Indian Depredations. — The Valley of the Rib Grande. — The Rivers Mimbres, Suanco, San Pedro, and Santa Cruz. — Tuc- son. — Tubac. — Tlie Sonoita Valley. — Silver Region. — Desert Re- gion. — Arizona Copper Mine. — Valleys of the Colorado and Gila. — The Pimos. — The Apaches. — Other Indians. — Climate. — Cultiva- tion. — Population. — New INIexico and Arizona, — Importance of the Organization of Arizona. — Copper and Silver Ores. — The Heintzel- man Mine. — Other Mines. — The Gold Region. — Sonora: Bound- aries, Government, and Population. — Origin of the Name. — Char- acter of the People. — Soil. — Mines. — The Real del Carmen. — Sier- ra del Oregano. — Ancient Population. — Traditions. — Silver and Gold. — Climate and Productions. — Rivers and Towns. — Guaymas and its Commerce. — Hermosillo. — Future of Sonora. — Pacific Rail- road Page 1 5 CHAPTER II. condition of ARIZONA FROM 1S50 TO 1SG4. Rapid Advance of Arizona.— Reverses. — Withdrawal of the Overland Mail. — Ravages of the Apaches. — Mining Discoveries. — The Heint- zelman and other Mines. — The Military Position. — The Mowry Sil- ver Mines. — Arrest of the Proprietor. — His Release. — The Mines worked on Government Account. — The Apaches, and how to deal with them.— General Carleton.— Arizona in 1864.— Progress of the Mines.— The Mowry Mines.— Mr. Kustel's Report.— The Bounda- ries and Organization of the Territory 55 CHAPTER III. THE MINES OF ARIZONA. REPORT OF F. BIERTU, METALLURGIST AND MINING ENGINEER, WRITTEN IN FEBRUARY, 1S61. The Mowry (formerly called the Patagonia) Silver Mines. — The Lodes and Ores. — Shafts and Tunnels. — Owners. — Management. — Eagle xii Contents. Mines. — Empire or Montezuma Mine. — Santa Rita Mining Com- pany. — Mariposa INIining Company. — Sonora Exploring and Mining Company. — Cahuabi Mining Company. — Arizona Copper Mining Company. — Sopori Land and Mining Company. — Arizona Land and Mining Company. — Colorado River Copper Mines. — Stevenson Mining Company. — Harris Mine. — St. Augustin Mining Company. — Coal Mines. — Auriferous Quartz , Page 73 CHAPTER IV. THE COLORADO RIVER MINES IN ISGi, Mining on the Colorado. — The River and its Navigation. — The differ- ent Mining Districts on the Colorado. — Freight and Passage. — Quality of the Ores. — Mode of Working. — Furnaces and Fuel... 85 CHAPTER V. SONORA FROM 1S59 TO 1864. Improvements since 1859. — The Southern Pacific Railroad. — The Overland ]\Iail. — Guayma's. — Labor in Sonora. — Great Mining Ha- ciendas. — The Mining Districts, Alamos, San Xavier, Las Bronces, Los Cedros. — Price of Labor. — The Jecker Contract for the Survey of Sonora. — Captain Stone's Scientific Commission. — Its Failure. — What it accomplished. — Extracts from Captain Stone's Letters. — What the Contract granted. — Present Condition of Sonora 92 CHAPTER VI. THE MINES OF LA CANANEA AND LA CIENEGUITA, SONORA. La Cananea: Early Working of the Mines. — Don "tgnacio Perez. — The Sierra of La Cananea. — Condition of the Mines in 18G0. — Their Situation. — The different Mines. — The Ores. — Chamunque. — Access to the Mines. — Assays of Ores. — La Cieneguita: Situation of the Mines. — Early Working. — Their Abandonment. — Titles. — Location. — The Mines. — The Hacienda. — Fuel, Water, .Building Materials, Wages, Provisions, etc. — Resume. — Assays of the Ores of La Cieneguita 103 CHAPTER VIL THE SIERRA MADRE OF NEW MEXICO. Mineral Wealth of Northern Mexico. — The Sierra Madre. — Mining under the Spanish Dominion. — Ancient and Modern Mines. — Pres- ent Modes of Mining. — The Miners. — Gambussinos. — Their Mode of Working. — Causes of the Decay in Mining. — Habits of the Min- Contents. \iii crs. — Borascas and Bonanzas. — Expulsion of the Spaniards. — With- drawal of Military Forces. — Ravages of the Indians. — Lack of Ma- chinery. — Various Causes for the Abandonment of Mines. — Necessi- ty for Foreign Capital and Energy. — Inducements for its Invest- ment. — Political Relations of Sonora and Chihuahua. — The Apaches. — Special Advantages of Chihuahua, Sonora, and Sinaloa. — Value and Distribution of the Ores. — Means of acquiring the Right to Mines. — Hints to Capitalists Page 125 CHAPTER VIH. THE MIXES OF JESUS MARIA AND SAN JOSib. Condition of Mining in Mexico. — Wealth of the old Spanish Miners. — The Faults of their Successors. — A European Superintendent of the Jesus Maria INIines. — M. Augustus Remuley. — Abandonment of the Mines. — Recent Movements. — Present Prospects. — The Mines near Jesus Maria and Jose. — Nuestra Sefiora del Rayo. — Santa Mar- garita. — San Jose del Rosario. — Candelaria. — San Rafael. — Haci- enda Quintana. — General Notes 140 CHAPTER IX. MINERALOGICAL SKETCH OP ARIZONA. Limits of Arizona. — Topography. — Geological Structure. — Character of the Vegetation. — The Plains. — The Table-lands. — Rivers, Fount- ains, and Wells. — Arable and grazing Land. — Parl^ of the great IMineral Region. — The Heintzelman Mine. — Character of the Ores. —Their Order of Deposit. — Processes of Reduction. — Defects in the Processes. — Wages and other Expenses. — Results, actual and pros- pective. — The Plain of Arivaca. — Santa Rita Mines. — Cahuabi Mines. — The San Pedro Mines. — Lead INIines. — The Mowry Silver Mines. — Various Mines and Ores. — Plancha do la Plata. — General Conclusions 158 CHAPTER X. CORRESPONDENCE. S. Mowry to J. R. Bartlett, Esq.— From J. R. Bartlett, Esq.— From John C. Hays, Esq. — From Hon. Joseph Lane. — From John Nu- gent, Esq. — From Hon. INIiguel A. Otero. — From S. W. Inge, Esq. — From Major C. E. Bennett. — From Sam. F. Butterworth, Esq... 176 xiv Contents. CHAPTER XI. THE GOVERNMENT AND THE MINES. The Mines of the West : shall the Government seize them ? — The Mining States: how shall they be Taxed ? 200 CHAPTER XII. THE SOUTHERN RAILROAD ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC. Jefferson Davis on the Route of the 32(1 Parallel : All Routes present Obstacles; this the fewest. — Lieutenant Parke's Surveys. — Dis- tances. — The Office Examination. — The Jornado. — Water and Timber. — Distances and Elevations. — Mr. A. H. Campbell's Report, — Temperature. — Opinions of Marcy and Emory. — Table of Com- parative Lengths and Costs. — General Considerations. — National Importance of a Pacific Railroad. CHAPTER XIIL THE SILVER MINES OF ARIZONA. The San Antonio Mine. — Aspect of the Region. — The Mowry Mines. — Scene at the Hacienda. — Pay-day. — Labor and Laborers. — His- tory of the Mines. — Lieutenant Mowry. — Yield of the Mines. — Country and Climate. — Santa Rita Mines. — The Hacienda.— The Salero Mines. — The Ores. — Grazing. — The Sopori Ranch. — The Country and the Mines. — Prospects. — The Heintzelman Mine. — The Countiy. — Past and Present of the Mines. — The Ores. — Mex- ican Thieves. — The Arivaca INIines. — The Country. — Arizona Mining Company. — Surrounding Mining Region. — The Cahuabia District. — The Mines. — The Bahia Mines. — General Conclu- sions 232 POSTSCRIPT. ■WARD ON THE SILVER MINES OF NORTHERN MEXICO. Projects for Mining. — The Mines of Arizpe. — Richness of Ores. — The Balls of Silver. — Old Spanish Decree. — Criaderos de Plata. — Speculations and Prospects 249 ARIZONA AND SONOEA. CHAPTER I. ADDRESS BEFORE THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPPIICAL AND STATISTICAL SOCIETY, NEW YORK, FEBRUARY 3, 1859. Arizona : Origin of the Name, — Boundaries. — Outlet. — The Gadsden Purchase. — Early Settlements. — Mormons. — Mines. — Soil and Pro- ductions. — Indian Depredations. — The Valley of the Rio Grande. — The Rivers Mimbres, Suanco, San Pedro, and Santa Cruz. — Tuc- son. — Tubac. — The Sonoita Valley. — Silver Region. — Desert Re- gion. — Arizona Copper Mine. — Valleys of the Colorado and Gila. — The Pimos. — The Apaches. — Other Indians. — Climate. — Cultiva- tion. — Population. — New Mexico and Arizona. — Importance of the Organization of Arizona. — Copper and Silver Ores. — The Heintzel- man Mine. — Other Mines. — The Gold Region. — Sonora: Bound- aries, Government, and Population. — Origin of the Name. — Char- acter of the Pepple. — Soil — Mines. — The Real del Carmen. — Sier- ra del Oregano. — Ancient Population. — Traditions. — Silver and Gold. — Climate and Productions. — Rivers and Towns. — Guaymas and its Commerce. — Hermosillo. — Future of Sonora. — Pacific Rail- road. The name Arizona is undoubtedly derived from the Aztec. In the original it is Arizumci, and the change is a corruption into the i^resent word, which is accepted as Spanisli. We have no decided information as to its mean- ing, but the impressiqp among those who have been curi- ous enough to investigate is, that it signifies " silver-bear- ing." This impression gains strength from the fact that the Arizona mountains are very rich in silver, and that a tradition of a silver mine, called La Arizona, of incredible 16 Arhona and Sonora. richness, still exists among the Mexican people near the frontier of our newly-acquired Territory. The proposed Territory of Arizona is bounded on the north by the par- allel of latitude 33° 40'; on the east by Texas; on the south by Texas and the Mexican States of Chihuahua and Sonora ; and on the west by the Colorado River, which separates it from California. This great region is about seven hundred miles long, with an average width of about one hundred and forty miles, and contains nearly 100,000 square miles. It is twice as large as New York ; em- braces within its borders three of the largest rivers on the continent west of the Mississippi, viz., the Rio Grande, the Gila, and the Colorado of the West.* The Colorado is the only navigable stream, and by its waters and those of the Gulf of California, Arizona is placed in easy communication with San Francisco and the Pacific coast. The natural outlet for the productions of Arizona must be through a port on the Gulf of California, and the acquisition of California necessitates the posses- sion of Sonora. That portion of Arizona now occupied, and to which public attention is now attracted in so re- markable a degree, has been better known heretofore as the " Gadsden Purchase." It was acquired by purchase from Mexico during the mission of General Gadsden, at a cost often millions of dollars. In the original treaty, as ne- gotiated by General Gadsden, a more southerly boundary than the one adopted by the Senate of the United States in confirming the treaty was conceded by Santa Anna. The line at present is irregular in its course, and cuts oif from our Territory the head of the Santa Cruz River and valley, the Sonoita valley, the San Bernardino valley, the whole course of the Colorado River from a point twenty miles below the mouth of the Gila River, and, worse than all, the control of the head of the Gulf of Cali- * For boundaries as adopted, see Chapter II. Address before the Geographical Society^ 1859. 17 fornia, and the rich and extensive valley of Lake Guzman, besides a large and extremely valuable silver region, well known both to Mexicans and Americans — the Planchas de la Plata. General Gadsden's line included nearly all the territory south of the Gila River to the thirty-first l^arallel of latitude — all the advantages above mentioned — and gave us the mouth of the Colorado Kiver. The Gadsden Purchase is attached by act of Congress to the Territory of New Mexico. At the time of its ac- quisition there was scarcely any population, excejDt a few scattering Mexicans in the Mesilla valley, and at the old town of Tucson, in tlic centre of the Territory. The Apache Indian, superior in strength to the Mexican, had gradually extirpated every trace of civilization, and roam- ed uninterrupted and unmolested, sole possessor of what was once a thriving and populous Spanisli province. In the possession of the writer of these notes is a map drawn in 1757, over one hundred years ago, presented by the Society of Jesuits to the King of Spain. The original of this map is now in the archives of tlie Mexi- can government. It was copied, with the notes relating to the Territory and Sonora, Chihuahua and Sinaloa, by Captain C. P. Stone, late of the United States Army. The map bears the inscrijDtion, " Carte levee par la So- ciete des Jesuites dediee au Hoi d^Espagne en 1757." The copy of the map and the accompanying notes are certified as accurate by the ofticer of the Mexican gov- ernment in charge of the archives. My information, therefore, upon the early history of this conij^aratively unknown domain, is accurate and reli- able. As early as 1687, a Jesuit missionary from the province of Sonora, which, in its southern portion, bore already the impress of Spanish civilization, descended the valley of the Santa Cruz River to the Gila. Passing down the Gila to its mouth, after exploring the country, he re- 18 Arizona and Sojiora. traced his steps, penetrated the country north of the Gila River for some distance, and ascended the Salinas or Salt River, and other northern branches of the Gila. The ex- plorations of this energetic priest did not stop here. Pro- ceeding east, he explored the valley of the San Pedro and its branches, thence along the Gila to the Mirabres,*and probably to the Rio Grande and the Mesilla valley. Fill- ed with the enthusiasm of his sect, he procured authority from the head of the order in Mexico, and established missions and settlements at every available- point. The reports of the immense mineral wealth of the new country, made by the Jesuits, induced a rapid settlement. There are laid down on the maj) before me more than forty towns and villages. Many of these were of consid- erable size. There were a few north of the Gila, and several on the lower Gila, near the Colorado. The Santa Cruz and its tributary valleys teemed with an agricultur- al and mining population. Thousands of enterprising- Spaniards cultivated the rich valley of the San Pedro, and scattered settlements flourished at every suitable stream and spring at the foot of the mountains toward the Rio Grande. The notes before me say: " All these settlements and missions were founded in fertile valleys, and by streams and springs, which pro- duced luxuriant crops of wheat, corn, and beans, and in many parts grapes and other foreign fruits were culti- vated." In the western part of the territory Avere the missions of St. Pierre, St. Paul, St. Matthias, St. Simond, St. Francis- co, Merci, the ranches of Eau Cheri, Eau de la Lune, and others ; on the Santa Cruz the missions of San Xavier del Bac, Santiago, San Cayetano, and San Philipe ; the towns of Tucson, "Tubac, Regis, San Agusta, and many others. San Xavier del Bac is still in existence. It is a mission church of great size and beauty, magnificently ornamented Address before the Geographical JSocietij, 1859. 19 within ; forty thousand dollars in solid silver served to adorn the altar. Ui^on the San Pedro River were the missions of St. Mark, San Salvadore, San Pantaleon, Santa Cruz, and the towns of Quiduria, Rosario, Eugenia, Vic- toria, and San Fernando — the latter at the mouth — witli many more. To the east some small settlements were found on the Valle del Saux,on the Mimbres, at the cop- per mines north of the Mimbres, and to the south the immense grazing and stock-raising estabhshment of San Bernardino, where since have been raised hundreds of thousands of cattle and horses. The Indians in the vicin- ity of the missions were reduced first to obedience by the Jesuits, and then to slavery by the Spaniards. The notes referred to above contain the names and lo- calities of more than a hundred silver and gold mines, which were worked with great success by the Spaniards. The survey of the Jesuit priest about 1687 was repeated in 1710, with renewed discoveries, and consequent acces- sion of population. From this time up to 1757 the con- quest and settlement of the country was prosecuted with vigor, both by the Jesuits' Society and the Spanish gov- ernment. The missions and settlements were repeatedly destroy- ed by the Apaches, and the priests and settlers massacred or driven off. As often Avere they re-established. The Indians at length, thoroughly aroused by the cruelties of the Spaniards, by whom they were deprived of their lib- erty, forced to labor in the silver mines with inadequate food, and barbarously treated, finally rose, joined with tribes who had never been subdued, and gradually drove out or massacred their oppressors. A superior civiliza- tion disappeared before their devastating career, and to- day there is scarcely a trace of it left, except scarcely vis- ible ruins, evidences every where of extensive and hastily- deserted mining operations, and the tradition of the coun- 20 Arizona and Sonora. try. The mission of San Xavier del Bac, and the old towns of Tucson and Tubac, are the most prominent of these remains. From 1757 down to 1820, the SjDaniards and Mexicans continued to work many valuable mines near Barbacora, and the notes in my possession speak of many silver mines, most of which contained a percentage of gold. "The San Pedro gold mine in 1748 was worked with ex- traordinary success." Among the mines anciently work- ed, as laid down in the authorities heretofore referred to, were the Dolores, San Antonio, Casa Gordo, Cabrisa, San Juan Bautista, Santa Anna (which was worked to the depth of one hundred and twenty yards), Rosario, Cata de Agua, Guadaloupe, Connilla, Prieta, Santa Catarina, Guzopa, Hurstano, Arpa, Descuhidara, Nascosare, Ar- guage, Churinabibi, Huacal, Pinal, and a great number of others, which it Avould only be tedious to mention. Every exploration within the past few years has con- firmed the statements of the ancient records. The testi- mony of living Mexicans and the tradition of the country all tend to the same end. Colonel A. B. Grey, Colonel Emory, Lieutenant Michler, Lieutenant Parke, the Hon. John R. Bartlett, late of the United States Boundary Commission, all agree in the statement that the Territory lias immense resources in silver and cop23er. Colonel Emory says in his report : "On account of the gold mania in California, I kept the search for gold and other precious metals as much out of view as possible, scarcely allowing it to be a matter of conversation, much less of actual search. Yet enough was ascertained to convince us that the whole region was teeming with the precious metals. "We every where saw the remains of mining operations, conducted by the Span- iards, and more recently by the Mexicans." The report enumerates at considerable length the va- Address before the Geographical Society^ 1859. 21 rious localities examined by Colonel Emory's party and others, of which there could be no doubt. The Hon. John R. Bartlett says of the Salinas, one of the northern branches of the Gila, that it alone will supply food for a great state. It must be recollected in this connection that the great mineral wealth of Arizona will call for, and amply repay for, the redemption and expensive cultiva- tion of all the available lands, and that irrigation pro- duces immensely greater crops than the other method of planting. Throughout the Avhole of Utah irrigation has been resorted to with the greatest success. The soil in Utah, in no place that the writer saw it, could in any way be compared to that of the bottom lands of Arizona. Captain Whipple, in his valuable report of exploration for the Pacific Kailroad, published by order of Congress, crossed the upper part of the region alluded to, and which is watered by the Kio Verde and Salinas. He fully sus- tains me in my remarks on those rich valleys : "We are in the pleasantest region -we have seen since we left the Choctaw country. Here are clear rivulets, with fertile valleys and forest trees. The wide belt of country that borders the Black Forest, and probably ex- tends along the Rio Verde to the Salinas and Gila, bears every indication of being able to support a large agricul- tural and pastoral population. The valley of the Rio Verde is magnificently wooded with firs and oaks, afford- ing excellent timber. Ancient ruins are said by trappers to be scattered over its whole length to the confluence Avith the Salinas. We therefore seem to have skirted the boundary of a country once populous, and worthy of becoming so again. Besides the advantages already enu- merated, the mountains in this vicinity bear indications of mineral wealth." — Vol. iii., p. 93. The notes above referred to, in the possession of the writer, speak of great farming and grazing establishments 22 Arizona and Sonora. scattered over the whole face of the Territory, between 1610 and 1800, which produced abundant crops of cereals, fruits, and grapes. These statements are confirmed by the testimony of Major Emory and his report, where he enumerates several of tlie most extensive; by Grey,Bart- lett, Parke, and Colonel Bonneville. Many of the ranches, deserted by the Mexicans on account of the Apache In- dians, have upon them large, well-built adobe houses, which must have cost the builders thousands of dollars. Many of these have been occupied under squatter titles by emigrants within the last few years. Of others only the ruins remain, having been destroyed by the depreda- tions of the Indians, or by the heavy rains of succeeding years. The country east of the Rio Grande is a great plain, broken only by the Sacramento and Guadalupe Mount- ains. Except in the towns on the river there is no popu- lation. The Mescalero Apaches have until lately made settlements unsafe. The establishment of Fort Stanton, and the activity of the United States troops, have, howev- er, reduced this once formidable tribe in number and spir- it, so that an early settlement of the fine country in the vicinity of the Sacramento Mountains may be expected. I have not visited this portion of the Territory, but from persons in whom I have perfect confidence I learn that there is a large and valuable district, offering great induce- ments to stock-raisers ; a number of bold, clear streams, alive with trout and other fish ; a good proportion of arable land, and an inexhaustible supply of oak, pine, hack- berry, and other timber. In the Organ Mountains, oppo- site the Mesilla valley, there are silver mines of great val- ue. One of these, the old Stevenson Mine, now known as the Fort Fillmore Mine, has been purchased by New York capitalists, and preparations are making to develop its undoubted wealth. Address be/ore the Geographiccd Society, 1859. 23 The Rio Grande valley, including the well-known Me- silla, contains a large extent of unoccupied arable land, Avitli plenty of water for irrigation. Until lately, tlie pro- tection afforded by United States troops has enabled the people to cultivate in safety, and during the last year nearly one hundred thousand bushels of grain were raised in the valley, besides a large number of cattle and horses. It is worthy of remark, that the settlements here, although mostly Mexican, have been made since the United States acquired the Territory, and that the lands are held under American title. The population is quiet, well behaved, and thoroughly American in feeling. It is estimated, and I believe correctly, that at least 50,000 people can be set- tled on the Rio Grande within the Arizona boundaries, and there are many attractions for the farmer and stock- raiser. West of the Rio Grande the country is a succes- sion of mesas or table-lands, ascending gently for nearly ninety miles to the Sierra Madre, and thence westward for five hundred miles, gradually descending until they reach the Gulf of California. This extensive plateau south of the Gila is broken by two well-defined ranges of mountains, the Chir-aca-hui and Santa Rita, and by a num- ber of isolated peaks, which assume something the form of a sugar-loaf, and are called by the Mexicans P/c«c/i05 and Peloncillos. The sun never shone on a finer grazing country than npon the three hundred miles west of the Rio Grande. The traveler has before him throughout the entire dis- tance a sea of grass, whose nutritious qualities have no equal, and the stock-raiser in January sees his cattle in better condition than our Eastern farmer his stall-fed ox. Ninety miles west of the Rio Grande is the Mimbres Riv- er and valley. Passing over the dividing ridge of the Sierra Madre, with so gentle an ascent and descent as to make it almost imperceptible, you descend into a wide 24 Arizona and Sonora. and beautiful valley, which at no distant day will support a large population. Tlic banks of the river are covered with a fine growth of cottonwood, and above the usual crossing for emigrants wild grapes and berries are found in great profusion. The Santa Rita del Cobre copper mine, of ancient fame, and a little to the northAvest of the Mimbres, has lately been reoj)ened by a capitalist, who has already begun to reap the reward of his enterprise. One hundred and thirty thousand pounds of this copjDer were sold a few months since to the Chihuahua mint for thirty-five cents per pound. A quantity has been sent to London and to N"ew York to be experimented on.* It is claimed that the superior malleability and ductility of this copper must make the demand for it very great. The Mimbres River sinks before reaching the line of Mexico. Some statements, which I have never been able to authen- ticate, make it flow in very rainy seasons into Lake Guz- man. The Suanco, or Yalle de Saux, is the next valley on the line of the emigrant road. The watery of this stream are very limited and intermittent. As it approaches the Gila the valley becomes better, but it will never be avail- able for extensive agriculture. The San Pedro River and valley, two hundred and fifty miles west of the Rio Grande, is par excellence the agricultural district south of the Gila. The valley is wide, very rich soil, and is considerably over one hundred miles in length. Owing to the depredations of the Apaches, no settlements liave yet been made in this valley. There is, near the junction of the San Pedro with the Gila, and at the mouth of the Arivypa, a most beautiful and fertile region. A fine growth of ash covers the valley. The Santa Rita Mount- ains, which separate the San Pedro and Santa Cruz, con- tain inexhaustible supplies of pine and oak, besides untold millions of the precious metals. A military post of four * Sec Appendix for later results. Address before the Geographical Society, \%b^. 25 companies at the mouth of the Arivypa would open this entire country to settlement. Still following the emigrant and mail road fifty miles, brings us to the old Mexican town of Tucson and the val- ley of the Santa Cruz. Like most of the streams, the Santa Cruz is intermittent, sinking and rising at irregular intervals. A portion of this valley is covered with a heavy growth of cottonwood. The mountains in the vi- cinity contain pine and oak, and the extensive tracts of o-razing lands south to the Mexican line are covered thickly with the mesquit--the best fuel in the world. The town of Tucson now contains about a thousand inhab- itants. It once had three thousand ; but the Indians, who desolated the whole of the Territory, had driven away all but about two hundred at the time of the Gadsden Pur- chase. Nine miles from Tucson, as you go up the valley of the Santa Cruz, is the old mission church of San Xav- ier, to which I have alluded elsewhere. It is still sur- rounded by a Papago Indian village ; a few tame Apaches and a few whites also live under the shadow of its tow- ers. Incredible as the statement may seem, the church of San Xavier, with its elaborate fa9ade, its dome and spires, would to-day be an ornament to the architecture of this great metropolis. No better evidence is needed of the resources and former prosperity of Arizona than is to be found in the now deserted missions of San Xavier and Tumacacori. » The town of Tubac, fifty miles southeast of Tucson, which now boasts a population of several hundred, was en- tirely deserted up to 1855, when it was reoccupied in part by the Sonora Exploring and Mining Company. They claim the town, and have given permission to a number of emigrants to occupy the old houses and build new ones. °Over what was once the towers of the barracks of the Mexican troops now floats a banner bearing the B 26 Arizona and Sonora. arms of peace, a hammer and pick, the in-signia of the company ; and in the rooms beneath, which once echoed to the tread of the successful Apache fighter, are now sold the calicoes and cotton goods of Lowell, and all manner of Yankee notions. The great Heintzelman Mine, the mines of Arivaca, Sopori, and Santa Rita, are within a circle of twenty miles from Tubac. Three miles from Tubac is the mission of Tumacacori. Its venerable walls now shelter political exiks from Sonora and a few enter- prising Germans, and its rich lands are cultivated by the American squatter. Twelve miles farther u]? the Santa Cruz is the ranch of Calabazas, claimed as the projoerty of the Gandara family, of Sonora. The extensive build- ings are occupied by American families, and the black- smith's forge is installed in a room once dedicated to more delicate uses. The Sonoita vaHey, which opens into the Santa Cruz near Calabazas, is the only one in any degree protected by the United States troops. It is about fifty miles long, in no place exceeding a mile in width, and generally much narrower. When I passed up it to Fort Buchanan, the whole valley was golden with grain. In one field there Avere one hundred and fifty acres of corn. I counted upon four stalks eighteen full-grown ears, and the aver- age height of the stalks was fifteen feet. When it is borne in mind that this laud was but just turned, the corn planted and neither hoed nor suckered, I am sure it will be conceded that there is some agricultural land of value in Arizona. On several of the farms two crops were raised last year, wheat and corn, wheat and beans, and other vegetables. The farmer during the past year found a ready market for his produce, his purchasers being the troops and the Overland Mail Company. This valley is almost entirely taken up by an intelligent and adventur- ous American population; and here is almost the only Address before the Geographiccd Society ^ 1859. 27 place in Arizona where you find that greatest of all bless- ings on the frontier — American women. The Santa Cruz and San Pedro approach each other near the Mexican line; and by Avay of Santa Cruz — a Mexican town at the head of the valley in Sonora — you can pass from one to the other with ease. The whole re- gion between the Rio Grande and the Santa Cruz is broken with conical-shaped hills and mountains, called by the Mexicans peloncillos. At the foot of these hills are found springs, which aflbrded water to the immense herds of cattle and horses which once covered the country ; and at many of these springs are found the ruins of build- ings occupied by the herders. The hills are covered to the top with the gramma, and other nutritious grasses. Twenty miles east of the Sonoita valley, and just north of the town of Santa Cruz, is one of the richest silver re- gions of Arizona. The Wachupe Mountain is believed to be inexhaustible in silver. The San Antonio and Pata- gonia* mines, lately opened, promise a rich yield to their owners. One of these is of especial value, yielding, be- sides a large percentage of silver, 53 per cent, of lead, which is purchased readily by the surrounding mining companies to be used in reducing their ores. The once celebrated Compadre mines, lately rediscovered, are in this vicinity. The present fortunate proprietors found them after a long and painful search. The shafts were found carefully concealed, partially filled with rubbish ; and thirteen furnaces in tolerable preservation i)rove how extensively the mines were once worked by the Spaniards. Here, as in the whole of Arizona, the work of prospecting and exploring has but just begun. The ores of this dis- trict are principally argentiferous galena. West of the Santa Cruz, and south of the valley of the Gila to the Colorado River, the Territory is generally an * The Patagonia is now known as the '• Mowry Silver Mines." 28 Arizo7ia and So7iora. irreclaimable desert. Its mountains abound in the pre- cious metals, and a sufficiency of water for mining oj^era- tions can be usually obtained without exorbitant expense. The celebrated Ajo copper mine, now known as the Ari- zona copper mine, is in this district. Mr. Edward E. Dun- bar, whose facile j)en has lately presented to the public, through the columns of the Daily Times^ some lifelike sketches of this portion of Arizona, was formerly the di- rector of this mine, and the first, I believe, to demonstrate the fact that water could be obtained. I take much pleasure in bearing testimony to the conscientious regard for truth which characterizes Mr. Dunbar's statements ; and although I am forced to differ with him in some of his conclusions, his knowledge of the country, gained by a long and painful experience, entitle his opinion to much respect. The Arizona Mine will one day prove of im- mense value ; like the rest of the mining companies, it needs the outlet on the Gulf of California. The valley of the Colorado is fertile, and will produce all the tropical fruits as well as the, cereals. The Indians, favored by the annual overflow, raise abundant croj^s of wheat, corn, pumpkins, melons, and beans. The remains of extensive irrigating canals show that at some day long past a large agricultural population lived here. The extreme heat of the climate in the summer months will prevent white labor from agricultural pursuits to any great extent. Rice, sugar, and cotton are best adapted to the soil of the Colorado bottom. There is in places along the bank a fine growth of cottonwood, and the whole valley abounds with the mesquit. This is the only portion of the Territory where the heat is excessive. The valley of the Gila River, whose waters, flowing from east to west, divide the Territory nearly in the cen- tre, four hundred miles long, can in most places be brought under cultivation to a greater or less extent. Since the Address before the Geographical Society^ 1859. 29 discovery of gold, a number of farms have been opened, and hundreds of acres of ricli land put under cultivation. The Gila empties into the Colorado one hundred and twenty-five miles above the head of the Gulf of Califor- nia. It is well to observe here that the difference in soil in different latitudes has not been sufficiently appreciated. The same soil which, under the climate of Oregon, is bar- ren and worthless,becomes, under the more genial sun of Arizona, fruitful, and, when irrigated, produces the same extraordinary crops as are found in California. The land cultivated by the Pimos on the Gila seems inexhaustible. Year after year they cultivate the same crops on the same land, with nothing but water to enrich it, and there is no sign of failure. The valley known as La Florida, near the mountain of the same name, in latititde 109°, is worthy of especial mention, as having at its head the ruins of a once flour- ishing town. A large population Avill again occupy it at no distant day. But little is known of the country north of the Gila ; it is very mountainous, but contains several valleys of considerable size, nearly all of which bear the impress of an ancient and superior civilization. The prin- cipal northern tributaries of the Gila are the Salado, the Tuberoso, the San Carlos, and the San Francisco (some- times called the Alamos). The Salado, according to my informant, Marcial, an Apache chief, has six small branch- es, four flowing from the east, two from the west. The Salado is the largest of all these streams, and has its som-ce about latitude 34°, in the Sierra Blanca Mountains. On all these streams the Apache Indian cultivates crops, prin- cipally of corn. The band known as the Coyetero, Pinal, or Sierra Blanca, cultivate most, although they have had the least intercourse with the Avhites. The Indians of Arizona are best classed as " friendly" and " hostile.'* The friendly Indians are the Pimos, Mar- 30 Arizona and Sonora. icopas, Papagos, and Yumas, with a few scattering, miser- able tame Apaches. The Pimos and Maricopas occupy a beautiful and fertile tract on the Gila, one hundred and eighty miles from its junction with the Colorado. They are a brave and hospitable race : they live in villages, and cultivate the arts of peace. Their regular fields, well- made irrigating ditches, and beautiful crops of cotton, wheat, corn, pumpkins, melons, and beans, have not only gladdened the eye, but also given timely assistance to the thousands of emigrants who have traversed Arizona on their way to the Pacific J The costume of the Pimos is extremely simple, only covering their loins, and a small straw hat, except in the case of the chiefs, who wear a sort of pantaloon of coarse cotton cloth. The Pimos and Apaches wage hereditary and fierce war, in which the Pi- mos are generally the victors. So high were their serv- ices valued by the Mexican government as a barrier to the incursions of the Gila Aj^aches, that whenever they visit- ed the Mexican towns, the authorities treated them with marked hospitality and kindness, making them presents of value, to be paid for by the public treasury. Much as we pride ourselves upon our superior government, no measures* have been taken to continue our friendly rela- tions with the Pimos ; and to our shame be it said, it is only to the forbearance of these Indians that we owe the safety of the life of a single American citizen in Central or Western Arizona, or the carriage of the mails overland to the Pacific^Ji The Maricopas live near the Pimos, and by contiguity and intermarriage have become similar in their customs. The Papagos resemble, but are inferior to the Pimos, do not cultivate so much, and live in scattered villages in the central and western parts of the Territory. The Apache — tribe of fatal memory for Sonora and all * The United States government have since, under urgent pressure of the writer, made some small appropriations for the Pimos Indians. Address defore the Geographical Society^ 1859. 31 Northern Mexico, are best classified under tlieir modern names : the Mescaleros, east of the Rio Grande ; the Mim- bres, Mogollones, Chiracahuis, Coyeteros or Pinaleros, Si- erra Blanca, and the Tontos. In the order I have men- tioned them, west from the Kio Grande, all of these have their homes north of the Gila, except the Chiracahuis. Yelasco says these tribes have no fixed residence, no common society, no positive antecedents ; they are best compared to the prairie wolf, sneaking, cowardly, revenge- ful, quick to assassinate the weak, and to fly from or yield to the strong. It is impossible for one who has not seen Northern Mexico to imagine the desolation they have made in a country where Nature has done so much. The name Infelix Sonora — most unhappy — given by all the old writers, is most painfully true : from the Gila, in latitude 32° 30', to Guaymas, in latitude 28°, their ravages are every where visible. Horrible as is the statement, more tlian one fourth of the Apaches of to-day are Mexican captives or their descendants. Not only ranches, and vil- lages, and towns, but whole districts, have been depopu- lated, and the work is still going on. In small parties, and by different mountain passes, they descend into Sono- ra, surprise and attack a train of travelers or a town, massacre the men, and carry off the women, with such booty as they can hastily seize, to their haunts on the Gila. I have obtained from Marcial, a leading Apache chief, and still a Mexican, much valuable information respecting these Indians. He had been carried off while a child, and had become, like his captors, savage. Velasco* says : " Without hesitation, it must be admitted that under no good treatment does the Apache yield his barbarism, his perfidy, or his atrocity ; notwithstanding the many treat- ies of peace made with the Pueblos, and the constant * Noticias y Esta'disticas del Estado de Sonora. Jose F. Velasco. 32 Arizona and Sonora. campaigns against them, npon the first opportunity they break faith, and become Avorse than before. Though it is incontrovertible that the Apaches are the most ferocious tribe on our border, yet the same may be said even of those who, from the time of the conquest, belong among us ; they call themselves pacific, yet have never, generally speaking, had sympathy with the whites ; they have not adopted our manners and customs, nor have we existing between us that confidence which inspires a same race, when they profess the same principles of social ties ; in fact, during the whole period of time that they have been subordinates of our government, they have followed a system of contradiction and opposition against it as far as they were able. The unequivocal j^roof of this truth have been the frequent assaults that they have made upon us under the pretext of foolish stories with which they were misled, and sometimes without any cause at all." The whole number of Apache warriors does not exceed two thousand. I have investigated this subject with probably more care than any other person, and am satis- fied the number is rather under than over the truth. Be- ing cowardly, they are afraid of Americans, and do not murder.* ■ Their depredations in our territory are mostly confined to stealing cattle, horses, and mules. Arizona will have no peace, and her great wealth as a pastoral re- gion must remain undeveloped, until the War Depart- ment sends a strong force, and reduces them by fear of absolute submission. They must be fed by the govern- ment, or exterminated. They know no alternative but to steal or starve ; and Northern Mexico has been their prey for too many years for them to learn the arts of peace. The Navajoes are included by Velasco among the * Since this address was delivered, information has been received of the murder of several Americans by the Apaches; Address before the Geographiccd Society^ 1859. 33 Apaches. They live in New Mexico along the 34th par- allel of north latitude. The Yumas, the remains of a once powerful tribe, live on the Colorado, near the Gila ; they are quiet ; sufficiently agricultural to subsist. A few years will leave them only their name. The climate of Arizona, except on the Lower Gila and the Colorado, is delicious ; never extremely hot, with cool summer nights, it offers great attractions to those who desire more genial skies than those of the North. Snow never lies in the winter — seldom falls ; frost is rare, though the nights are often cold, seldom freezing. The season for cultivating is long, fruits blooming in February and March. Cotton, corn, wheat, barley, tobacco, melons, grapes, peaches, and all the vegetables, yield profuse crops throughout the Territory. The grape of the Rio Grande valley has no superior, and wine of g'ood quality is manu- factured from it. The rainy season in Arizona is from June to September inclusive. Professor Henry has, I believe, "demonstrated" that no rain falls in Arizona or Sonora. I have not seen his pa- per, but understand it is a beautiful theory. It is much to be regretted, for his sake, although not for the country, that the facts are against it. Cultivation in Arizona is by irrigation. It is believed, by those who are capable- of judging, that, with subsoil plowing, good crops can be obtained without irrigation, and the results of one year are quoted in support of the theory. It will take a series of years to prove it satisfactorily to the farmer. The yield throughout Arizona is two crops from the same land each year. The population of Arizona to-day [1858] exceeds ten thousand souls, exclusive of Indians ; two thirds of it is established on the Rio Grande, in the towns of Mesilla, Las Cruces, La Mesa, Don Ana, Amoles, Santo Tomas, Santa Barbara, Pichacho, and the surrounding ranches, B2 34 Arizona and Sonoixt. including the floating population of the Gila gold mines. The American population of the Territory is not far from two thousand. This is vastly increasing, and the ensuing spring will see it vastly increased. The gold discoveries, the Overland Mail, which runs throughout the entire length of Arizona, tlie large amount of capital invested in the silver mines, together with the increasing movement westward of our people, will add largely to the already vigorous and enterprising population of the new Terri- tory. It must be added that there is no law or protec- tion from the government : every man redresses his wrongs with the pistol or knife, or submits in silence. The Gadsden Purchase was not originally an integral part of Mexico : it was acquired years after the treaty of Guadaloupe Hidalgo, and was only attached to the Ter- ritory of New Mexico as a temporary expedient. It must also be remembered that the Gadsden Purchase, with that portion of New Mexico which it is proposed to include within the limits of the Territory of Arizona, is separated from New Mexico proper by natural bounda- ries ; that it derives no benefit from the present connec- tion'; and that any opposition to the desired legislation arises from the Mexican population, which fears the influ- ence of a large American emigration. Moreover, that New Mexico contains upward of 200,000 square miles, and that its organic act provides for its partition; showing clearly that Congress anticipated at no remote day the settlement of the country by an American population, and its erection into several territories and states. The only eff"ect of the present connection of Arizona with New Mexico is to crush out the voice and sentiment of the American people in the Territory ; and years of emigra- tion under present auspices would not serve to counter- balance or equal the influence of the 60,000 Mexican resi- dents of New Mexico. New Mexico has never encour- Address before the Geographical Society ^\d>5^. 35 aged American population. She is thoroughly Mexican in sentiment, and desires to remain so. As a matter of state policy, the organization of Arizona is of the first importance. Situated between New Mexi- co and Sonora, it is possible now to make it a thoroughly American state, which will constantly exert its influence in both directions to nationalize the other two. New Mexico is at present thoroughly Mexican in its character and vote. Sonora, if we acquire it at once, will be the same. By separating Arizona from it, and encouraging an American emigration, it will become the " leaven which shall leaven the Avhole lumi^." By allowing it to remain attached to New Mexico, or by attaching it to Sonora when acquired, the American influence will be swallowed up in the great preponderance of the Mexican vote. The Apache Indian is preparing Sonora for the rule of a higher civilization than the Mexican. In the past half century the Mexican element has disappeared from w^hat is now called Arizona, before the devastating career of the Apache. It is every day retreating farther south, leaving to us (when it is ripe for our possession) the territory without the population. The American population is mostly concentrated in the centre of the Territory, in and near the Santa Cruz valley, and on the lower Gila, at the gold mines. The Overland Mail Company, by the establishment of their stations at intervals rarely exceeding twenty miles, have much facili- tated intercourse and travel ; and the emigration of this year will cluster around these stations, pouring a line of villages across the continent — in the language of the Pres- ident, "a chain of American citizens which wdll never be broken." The establishment of the Overland Mail is not only one of the great triumphs of the age, but it is an ele- ment of civilization which none appreciates but the front- iersman. 36 Arizo9ia and Sonora. The ores of copper found in Arizona and Sonora are iVsually the siilphurets, principally gray. The ores of sil- ver are argentiferous galena, native silver, auriferous sul- phuret of silver, black sulj^huret of silver, sulphate of sil- ver, sulphate of iron combined. The gangue is usually quartz or feldspar. I have before me many notes de- scriptive of various mineral localities, even to minuteness, but the limits of this address' will not permit especial mention of them. The development of the mineral wealth of Arizona has but just commenced, yet enough has been done to give a brilliant promise for the future. The Sonora Company, under the direction of Charles D. Poston, Esq., and more lately under that of Major Heintzelman, of the army, have expended a large capital in opening and prospecting their rich possessions. The Heintzelman Mine — so called after the president of the company — bids fair to become more famous than any of the great mines of old Mexico. From a late letter it is claimed that the ores thus far smelted yield the astonishing average of $950 j^er ton. I saw this mine in September of last year. About two hundred tons of the ore had already been extracted, and the yield from one small furnace was about one thousand ounces per week. At a cost of $30,000 the company have brought from San Francisco and erected amalgamating works, from which they expect to obtain $3000 per day — a million a year. This mine has the most extraordinary reputation throughout Sonora. I found, in traveling through the state, that almost every shopkeeper knew the value of the ore. It was obtained from the miners, who had stolen, and sold or exchanged it for goods. The Sopori* Mine, which has only been worked in a small way, promises also a rich yield. I have cut with a pen- knife native silver from ore taken from the Sopori. * See Appendix. Address before the Geographical Society, 1859. 37 San Antonio and Patagonia have been already men- tioned, as Avell as the Compadre Mines. Many others are known to exist, and then- owners are only waitiug for the protection of a Territorial government to commence work. Others are deterred by want of capital. Several hundred thousand dollars have already been invested in mines in Arizona, and several companies are now forming. It is my profound belief that the most colossal fortunes this country has ever known will be made from the mines of Arizona and Sonora. The Santa Rita copper mine, near the Mimbres, has already been mentioned, as has the Arizona. On the Colorado, forty miles above the mouth of the Gila, on navigable waters, a copper mine is being efficiently w^orked. It promises to be inexhaustible, and, from its advantageous position, must be immensely valua- ble. The ore contains a percentage of gold. Silver has also been found on the Colorado, also gold quartz. On the Gila copper is abundant. In fact, the Territory of Arizona seems inexhaustible in minerals. Iron, copper, silver, and gold are found in hundreds of localities. A plumbago mine was discovered during the past year. Quicksilver is the only metal of which no mention has yet been made. I do not know of any in the Territory, though its existence is probable. Of the great extent of the gold region of Arizona there can be no doubt. The late discovery of placers, or sur- face diggings, on the Gila, has long been anticipated. Emory, in 1849, expressed his belief in its existence. Many an emigrant, on his way to California, has found "the color." Senator Gwin informs me that he heard of gold on the Gila from emigrants at San Diego in 1849. All the frontiersmen and trappers unite in saying that coarse gold is found in the streams north of the Gila. Marcial, the Apache chief before mentioned, told me the same. That gold in quartz veins exists in many parts 38 Arizona and JSonora. of the Territory, we know, not only from ancient record and tradition, but from actual observation and experi- ment. A vein has been opened, and, as soon as it is safe, will be worked, in the Apache Pass, four hundred miles east of the present placers. Almost every silver and cop- jDcr vein yet opened shows, by close analysis, a trace of gold. In the Sopori Mine it has gone as high as three per cent. At the Santa Kita del Cobre, the Mexican miners, after their day's labor is over in the mine, work the placers in the vicinity, making sure but small wages. Tradition tells ns that many years since the ores of this mine were so rich in gold as to pay transportation to the city of Mexico on mule-back. A gold placer is believed to exist near aPapago village south of Tucson. The evi- dence of rich gold placers in northern Sonora is indisput- able. Work in them has nearly or quite ceased on ac- count of the Apaches, but the record of their past yield is enormous. The facts in reference to the present condition of the Gila gold mines in Arizona are simply these : At a j^oint on the Gila River, about twenty miles from its junction with the Colorado, and in a succession of sand hills, gold was discovered in September, 1858. The emigrants who were still on their way stopped, and, the news reaching California, others came in. I visited the gold mines early in November, and found about one hundred men and sev- eral famiUes. A town called Gila City had already been laid out, and temporary houses of brush and adobe were in the course of erection. I examined carefully for my- self, and found that several men could afford to pay la- borers three dollars per day and their board to work for them. I saw more than twenty dollars washed ont of eight shovelfuls of dirt, and this in the rudest manner, and by an unpracticed hand. I saw several men whom I knew well would not have been there had they not been Address before the Geographical Society^ 1859. 39 doing well, who told me they had made from $30 to $125 per day each. I i:)m-chased about $300 in gold dust out of a lot of more than $2000. A portion of this dust is here, if any one is curious enough to wish to see it. Sev- eral hundred men have come into the mines since I left Arizona. My letters gave me no reason to suppose the mines have given out or shown any signs of failure.* The country at this point is not inviting, and there are always at any gold diggings men who do not and will not Avork, and who, if they can not make a living by gam- bling, or feeding on some one else, depreciate the coun- try. Gold digging is the hardest of all work, and very precarious in the richest mines. A man who is earning a comfortable subsistence at home should hesitate long about giving it up for gold hunting. The old discoveries of gold on the Spanish trail from Utah to California in 1850, the later one in Kansas, at Pike's Peak, and in Ari- zona, together with the well-known placers of Sonora, establish conclusively the fact of the existence of gold throughout a great belt of the continent from north to south. I am indebted to the Hon. George Bancroft for a copy of a curious and rare letter, which is not out of place to mention here. It is dated at Madrid in 1769, and is addressed to the Duke de Choiseul, minister of foreign aifairs for France, by the French embassador to the court of Spain. He says : (Extract) " Madrid, 6 Fevrier, 1769. " M. Galv^s qui a passe dans les Californies, a aussi mande qu'elles abondent en mines d'or et d'argent, et que ces provinces que I'Espagne ne connaissait, pour ainsi * The promise of gold placers has been fully realized on the Colora- do and north of the Gila, although the point of first discovery has been worked out, or rather deserted for richer districts in 18G3 and 1864. 40 Arizo7ia and Sooiora. clii-e, que de iiom, pouiTont, dans la suite, produire une augmentation de revenue, fort considerable. " (Signe), OssuN." {Translation) "Madrid, Feb. 6th, 1769. " M. Galves, who has traveled in the Californias, has also stated that they abound in mines of gold and silver, and that these provinces that Spain has known, so to speak, only by name, Avill be able in the future to produce a very considerable augmentation of revenue. " (Signed), Ossun." The conclusions to be drawn from the facts I have thus hastily set forth are these : That while Arizona can not be called an agricultural state, she has a sufficiency of ar- able land to support a large population ; that as a grazing and pastural region she has unsurjDassed advantages ; but her great wealth is found in her inexhaustible mineral resources. There can be no doubt that if Arizona to- day did not contain a single acre of arable land, her gold and silver, her copper, and iron, and lead, would some day make her one of the wealthiest of the states of the Union. Sonora, of which Western Arizona once formed a part, is so closely connected in interest with Arizona that a brief mention of her resources and condition is necessary to my subject. Sonora is bounded on the north by Arizona, on the east by the Sierra Madre range of mountains, which separate it from Chihuahua, on the south by the River Fuerte, which separates it from Sinaloa, and on the west by the Gulf of California and the Colorado River, which sepa- rate it from Lower California. Its capital is now Hermo- Address before the Geographical Society^ 1859. 41 sillo, was formerly Ures,* and, more anciently, Arizpe. This state is at present virtually independent. The gov- ernment is vested in a governor, elected by the people, and a Legislatm-e, consisting of but one house. Some years past the property owners looked forward to annex- ation to the United States as an inevitable event. The civil war has put an end to these ideas, and peace having been established at home, Sonora looks to herself, Avith the incidental help given by foreign capital and emigra- tion, for her regeneration and future, greatness. That this reliance is well founded, the vast improvement in the past year is a sure indication. In the preliminary advertisement to Zas JVoticias Es- tadisticas de So^iora, by Don Jose F. Velasco, a work from which I have freely quoted, the author says : " It is necessary to say, without equivocation, that if there be any state among those which compose the Re- public of Mexico of which it is difficult to present exact statistics, that state is undoubtedly Sonora. Populated by an indigenous people, disseminated over the whole state, without laws or politics, and mingled with the na- tion of which it forms a part, it is very difficult to ascer- tain its numbers from its chiefs. It is for this reason that I have been only able to give approximately the number of inhabitants. I have only undertaken a work that at least approximates toward the truth, limiting my- self to certain notices which may give light to other writers on the same subject." The state of Sonora, thus called by its earliest peoi^le of whom we have any knowledge, derives its name, ac- cording to the best authorities, from Sonot^ an Opata In- dian word, which means Senora^ or 3Iadam. The Con- quistadores were treated with great liospitality by the Opata Indians while visiting their rancherias or villages. * The capital is again fixed at Ures. 42 Arizona and Sonera. As a mark of friendsMp, the Indians strove to imitate the Spanish pronunciation Senora^ inste'ad of using their own word Se?iot, from which arose the corrupted word Sono- ra. Sonora has been divided, by^ various writers, into Upper and Lower Sonora — into Pimeria Alta and Pime- ria Baja ; and still farther into the subdivisions of Arizpe, Cieneguilla, and Horcasitas in the north, with Hostimuri, Alamos, and the Pueblas of the Mayo and Yaqui in the south. The state formerly included Sinaloa, from which it was separated in 1830. It is said to be a part of the plan of the present • governor, Pesqueira, to again unite these states as the basis of a new confederacy.* The people of Sonora are generally docile, and, making allowance for the bad system of government and the great misery in which they are found, are obedient to the constituted authorities : in fact, this remarkable docility amounts to weakness of character, and which ambitious revolutionary chiefs have taken advantage of to forward their own views. For many years there has been much suffering from revolutions and Indian depredations, and without hoj^e, until now, for the better, it is not surpris- ing that the Sonoranese lost his energy of character. He gambled to divert himself and pass away time, and, w^ith- out hope for the future, he allowed things to take their course — a perfect fatalist. Some become desperate, and take unlawful measures to better their condition. It is an unquestionable fact that the association with Ameri- cans, regular labor and assured employment, dependent upon good behavior, is fast regenerating the Sonoranese. The miners and farm laborers show great ambition to emulate the work of an American, and to prove that they can do as much in the same time. It only requires a skillful hand and a good government to make the shift- * Not confirmed. A close alliance, however, exists between the governments of the two states. Address before the Geographical /Society, 1859. 43 less Sonoranese of the present clay a useful member of society. Comparatively few educated men are found in Sonora — a common education consisting of reading and writing, and I believe that in the whole population it does not exceed ten per cent, more, particularly in the frontier towns. A leading trait in their character is hospitality, and " let the morrow take care of itself" is a common expression in their mouths. He will share his last mouth- ful, and considers it a matter of course for the stranger to take his place at his board. The Avomen are kind- hearted, obedient to their husbands, who rule them gen- erally with a rod of iron. " Strong-minded" women are not known, and usually peace reigns in their homes. Sonora, for the most part, is mountainous, watered by several small rivers, abundant in mineral wealth ; in fact, is considered to be one of the richest states of the Mex- ican dominion. There is a sufficiency of agricultural land to maintain a large population ; but the true rich- ness of Sonora consists in its mines of silver and gold, and the great facilities for raising stock. The mines at present are but little worked, owing to the Apaches and revolutions ; but, laboring under all these disadvantages, she is still able to export annually several millions of dol- lars in silver bars and gold dust, large quantities of stock to California and the Territory of Arizona ; also flour to the adjoining state of Sinaloa. The most famous mines and mining districts (minerals) are those of Alamos, situated in the district of that name, and property of the Almadas, Gomez y Urreas ; mine of Subiate, near Hermosillo, property of the Monteverdes ; "mineral" of San Xavier, San Marcial, St. Teresa de Jesus, property of Ynigo, Cubillas & Co. ; the famous mine or mineral of Babacanora, at present worked by a French company; mine of Baramachi, the richest mine discover- ed within the last two years, having yielded 81000 to the 44 Arizona and Sonora. nine hundred weight of ore and very abundant in ore — at present the yiekl is not so great; mine of Corral Viejo, gold, silver, and lead; La Canauea, silver, copper, and lead ; La Guachuca ; las Planchas de Plata.* On the opposite side of the mountain of Babacanora, at the distance of about a league and a half, is found the Real del Carmen, celebrated for its great mine of that name, and which has been worked to a great extent. It still yields a good profit to the " Gamhussiiio^^'' a sort of mining filibuster, who works regardless of the future of the mine. Ores are still found which yield from ten to twen- ty marcs to the carga. The ores are native silver, aurif- erous silver, gangue, quartz. This mine was Avorked in the first years of the Spanish conquest of Mexico by Her- nan Cortez, in later years by a company of Spaniards, who found a chart and description of the mines in the ar- chives of Mexico. It is remembered by the oldest inhab- itant of Sinoquipe that native silver, six inches wide, was cut out of the vein and melted in the refining furnace without more treatment than a lead bath. This company, owing to the changes which took place in the Mexican territory, stopped work, carrying oflT with them several trains of mules loaded with silver; the mine then partly filled with water, and the gambussinos, who have been and are the cause of the destruction of so many good mines, commenced operations, cutting out the upper pil- lars and supports, and in a short time the mine fell in, leaving treasure to an enormous amount buried in the ruins ; in later days shafts have been sunk on the same lode, worked, and ores rich in silver have been encounter- ed, paying from fifteen to twenty marcs to the nine cwt. In the rubbish which was thrown out of the old mine, a comfortable subsistence is gained by washing in bateas — * See a subsequent chapter for a full description of several Sonora Address before the Geographical JSociet^, 1859. 45 quantities of grain silver being found which, refined in the furnace, yield from twenty-five to thirty per cent, pure metal. This, and several other mines of Sonora, have been abandoned, not from the ores having failed or depreciated in value, but from the want of energy in the Mexican race. The mines in the hands of the Spaniards yielded enormous profits to the miner ; they were men of indomitable enterprise, who employed capital, science, and spared no expense to succeed in their adventures; whereas the Mexican is poor, without energy, and too lazy to trust or help himself. Formerly, Sonora the rich was a proverb ; now, Sonora the poor is a stubborn fact — but not from the want of the elements of richness. These once developed, she will once more become Sonora the rich, and may be great. "In the Real of Babacanora," writes John Denton Hall, Esq., to whom I make grateful acknowledgments for many of the facts connected with Sonora, "a miner is enchant- ed, and his hopes raised by seeing the beautiful formation which the whole district presents, more particularly that portion which comprises the * Sierra del Oregano,' which, viewed from the houses, presents a magnificent spectacle. My poor pen can not do it justice, so I shall content my- self in stating a few facts concerning it which came to my knowledge : Veins of ore rich in silver are known to exist, from the fact of ore being found in several parts of the mountain. Many capitals have been invested and lost in speculations utterly worthless; whereas a small one, invested in making a good search and prospect of this mountain, would not be lost. This statement I make aft- er many years mining experience ; myself and many oth- er miners who know the mountain will stake our credit on many tons of precious metal being hid in its interior. The formation clay state— the richest in Sonora— the fiict of rich ore having been found on its sides and ravines, 46 Arizona and Sonora. and the number of rich mines in the vicinity, all lead me to suppose such to be the case. The mines on mines of El Oregano must wait until some adventurous miner will expend a thousand or two to enrich himself with mil- lions. "Mention has been made of an ancient population. On making particular inquiries respecting them, I find that they are common in all paf ts of the Sonora River, and even on the River Gila. The River Sonora, from its length, quantity of water, and abundance of cultivable land, is peculiarly adapted to maintain a large population. Many of the ruins are of great extent, covering whole ta- ble-lands, proving that in former times Sonora was much more thickly peopled than at present. Undoubtedly some regularity was observed in laying out these towns. In one I found what appeared to have been a fort ; by its position it was well calculated for defense. Unfortunate- ly, no docum-ents exist from which dates could be taken, the archives, and all belonging to the mission, having been destroyed at the time the Jesuits were expelled. It is a known fact here, and I believe in many other countries, that the order of Jesuits have done more toward civiliza- tion among the Indians than any other religious order in existence. It is undoubtedly the case in Sonora; the ruins they have left behind them prove that they were equal to the task they undertook; and among the old people their kindness and wisdom are still remembered and talked of. * * * * * " The tradition is current here, and in all parts of the Opata nation, that the great Montezuma was the chief of their tribe, and a great warrior. After subjecting the other tribes to his rule, he determined on building himself a city to live in on the River Gila — in Casas Blancas. He commenced operations : not liking the situation, or being somewhat disturbed in his work by the Apaches — the Address before the Geographical Society ^IQbQ. 47 only tribe which had not submitted to his rule, joined to the bad omens observed by the priests — he determined to travel in search of a good location, favored by his gods. At the time of commencing his new journey, an eagle was observed to be hovering over the camp ; orders were given to observe the bird's flight, and its resting-place ascertained ; his commands were obeyed implicitly, and the eagle was found in the Lake of Mexico, perched on an opal, with a rattlesnake in its beak. Here Montezuma founded the city of Mexico, which would have remained in his possession up to the present date if Hernan Cortez and his gallant adventurers had not disturbed his calcula- tions in a most important manner. Such is the tradition, and it is considered heresy among the Opatas not to be- lieve it. Eagle, snake, and opal is the escutcheon of Mex- ico. Snake alone would be more appropriate. "Humboldt mentions in his travels havino: seen the ruins of Casa Blanca, on the River Gila. Another tradi- tion is current also of Montezuma having told the con- querors of Mexico that it would be an easy matter for them to subject to their rule the whole of the Indian tribes, but the Apaches never. We shall see what Uncle Sam can do Tvith them in a short time." The yield of the silver mines of Mexico, as compared by Ward and Humboldt from the actual official returns to the government, from the conquest to 1803, amounts to the enormous sum of $2,027,855,000, or more than TWO BILLIONS of dollar s ! Again, Ward says : "I am aware that many of the statements in this and the j)re- ceding books respecting the mineral riches of the north of New Spain (Sonora, including the Gadsden Purchase, Chihuahua, and Durango) will be thought exaggerated. They are not so. They will be confirmed by every fu- ture report ; and in after years, the public, familiarized with facts which are only questioned because they are 48 Arizona and Sooiora. uew, will Avonder at its present incredulity, and regret the loss of advantages which may not always be within its reach." Gold dust has been found in abundance in the placers of San Francisco la Cienga, Las Llanos, Ouisabaquita, St. Perfecto ; and Soni is famous for its gold mines, also Co- cuspera and Baba Seco ; in the district of the Pueblo of Cucurpe gold is found in abundance; during the rainy season in Baquachi, district of Arizpe, it is also found in quantities which pay well. In a word, Sonora, consider- ed in a mineral point of view, equals, if not surpasses, the richest country in the known world, and only requires capital, peace, and a liberal government. The new Ter- ritory of Arizona, which formerly belonged to this state, is considered by the Sonoranese to be the richest portion of their country. The climate is good. The rainy season sets in in June, and lasts till the beginning of September; from this month until March occasional showers fall. The cold is never severe, the weather being very similar to that in Califor- nia in the same months. From March until the rain sets in in June is considered the dry season. The heats are never oppressive — less so than in California. Two crops are raised from off the same land in the year, and which for abundance can not be surpassed in any country — wheat, maize, beans, peas, etc., being the general grain that is cultivated. Sugar-cane is planted in great quanti- ties in Hermosillo, San Miguel, Ures, Rayon, Oposura, Saguaripa, Huepaca, and the Rio Yaqui. A coarse kind of sugar is made called panocha, Avhich yields to the cul- tivator an excellent return for his labor, generally selling at $25 the cargo of three hundred weight. In all parts of the state most excellent tobacco is raised. Cotton is sown by the Indians on the Rio Yaqui, and the grub (cot- ton worm) is hardly known in the crops. The average Address before the Geographical Society^ 1859. 49 price of wheat is eight dollars the cargo of three hundred weight, beans and jDeas six dollars. The state is divided into nine districts, each being gov- erned by a prefect, who is appointed by the governor, and is responsible for the good conduct of his district. The port of Guaymas at present is the only port of entry.* It is a small, but, in the business part, a well-built town, containing about six thousand inhabitants. The harbor of Guaymas is the best on the Pacific coast. Four miles long, with an inner and outer bay, it will admit ships of the heaviest tonnage, and the commerce of the world could be transacted at this port. The entrance is jDro- tected by a long island, which makes it doubly secure.f • The principal rivers of Sonora are the Fuerte, the Ya- qui, the Mayo, and the Sonora. The Yaqui enters the Gulf of California eighteen miles below Guaymas. It has a dangerous bar, but it is believed to be navigable for light-draft steamers to Buena Vista,J eighty miles from * Libertad, in latitude 29° 53' N., has recently been opened. t The following letter is from the head of the well-known mercan- tile house of Juan A. Robinson, of Guaymas, Sonora, San Francisco, and other points. It is proper to say that the actual export is nearer five millions than three, a large amount of bullion being exported yearly without going through the custom-house. The trade of Mazat- Ian is nearer twelve millions than nine. " Guaymas, October 12, 1S5S. ' * Dear Sir, — In reply to your inquiries regarding the trade of this port, I would observe, the merchandise principally consumed is from England direct, and occasionally from the United States,-including goods from the European continent and the East Indies. The amount of imports may be calculated at about three millions per annum of for- eign goods, besides a considerable amount of the different manufactures of this republic. Returns are made in gold and silver bullion. And, lastly, wheat and hides [the exports of the former] may be calculated at three millions per annum, and say half a million of the other arti- cles, including copper. Our trade is evidently on the increase. Re- garding INIazatlan, from personal observation 1 should judge that the business done there is about three times more than that of this port, their exports being in coined silver and gold, Brazil wood and hides, principally. I remain, dear sir, in haste, your obedient servant, "Juan A. Robinson. " Hon. Sylvester MoAvry, Delegate from Arizona." X Doubtful.— S. M. c 50 Arizona and Sonora. its month. The Sonora River flows through the Arizpe valley, which is called the garden of Sonora. It is almost wholly in the hands of the Apaches. The desolation of the depopulated towns and ranches is melancholy beyond description. The valleys of the Yaqui, Mayo, and Fu- erte are the best sugar-lands in the world. Ures is a small city of about seven thousand inhabit- ants, and is situated about sixty leagues from Guaymas. Hermosillo is the largest city, containing from fourteen to fifteen thousand inhabitants. It is the centre of com- merce. It is one hundred and ten miles north of Guay- mas.* The next in size and importance is Heal de Ala- mos, situated on the frontiers of Sinaloa: it contains from five to six thousand inhabitants ; it is the centre of a large mining district, as its name implies — Real meaning town or city of mines. Oposura, Saguaripa, Rayon, St. Miguel, and Arispe, the ancient capital of Sonora, are large towns, with populations of from four to five thousand each. The entire population of Sonora does not exceed one hundred and thirty-five thousand, comprising Mexicans (jente de razon)^ Opatas, Yaquis, Mayos, Taumales, and Papagos : this population, instead of increasing, is decreasing — the Apaches, revolutions, and emigrations to California and Arizona producing this efiect ; and in a few years, if some change does not take place, Sonora will become depopu- lated. Mr. Hall, the friend to whom I am indebted for many of these notes, says ; " After so many years' residence among them, I natur- ally feel an interest in their welfare, firmly believing that the grain of gold in their character among so much dross is worthy of seeking out, and will repay the finders. The * A mint has been established at Hermosillo, which is in successful operation, having all the modern mechanical appliances for coining gold, silver, and copper. The right to coin is a monopoly in the hands of capitalists. The present superintendent is Mr. Symonds, an English subject, assisted by Mr. Bowring and Mr. Montcverde. Address before the Geographiccd Society^ 1859. 61 United States could do it, and would to God it should be so; and I and many others will be found ready to co- operate in any just and honest mode of bringing round a mutual good understanding But one conclusion can be drawn of the State of Sonora, and that is, in order to redeem to the Sonoranese his character, life, and for- tune, it is necessary to subject or utterly annihilate the savage Apache, who has served as the destroying angel to this fine country. It is the most sure and ready way to gain the eternal gratitude and friendship of the peo- ple, and annexation of one of the richest countries in the known w^orld, which will also serve as another con- necting link of the great chain of commerce with the In- dies." Velasco says, in concluding his review of Sonora and the Sonoranese : "In truth this is a most sorrowful scene; it horrors one to consider the state of prostration which we are now in, by the continued bad feeling of party, which keeps us savage in civil war, and all the while forgetting our own interests. For parties to harass each other mu- tually; for brother to slaughter brother to satisfy re- venge, etc., in a moment, are formed enthusiastic masses ; but the same does not happen when the common enemy is to be punished, who are now with gigantic strides de- stroying the country. Until the Sonoranese shall know that as long as they do not bury in the fold of their coun- try, and each one give a brotherly embrace in good faith, we shall continue to be the plaything of passions the most strong and savage." Having had considerable practical experience on the plains, four journeys overland across the continent in the past four years,* I was desirous of stating a few facts, showing the comparative merits of the difterent routes * Since doubled. 52 Arizona and Sonora. for a Pacific railroad. The limits of this address will not permit, and I therefore turn from the subject, with the prediction that the route known as the Southern, along the 3 2d parallel, is the only one that will be built in this generation.* Every exploration has shown it to be not only the most practicable, but probably the only practi- cable route. The advocates of this route point to the significant fact that the mail from San Antonio to San Diego has never once failed in eighteen months of opera- tion, winter or summer. The Great Overland Mail makes its best time on the 32d parallel, and that portion of the route denounced as the worst, from El Paso west, has proved itself the best. Thirteen hundred miles by stage in December or January in less than eight days. Is there any other route on the continent where this can be ac- complished ? Not on the Salt Lake route. It is wholly impracticable. Not on the Albuquerque route, else Lieu- tenant Beale would not go into winter quarters. On the 32d parallel no winter quarters are necessary. It is use- less to attempt to evade this question of climate on so ex- tended a route. In addition, the 3 2d parallel is by far the most level, and has the most water at all seasons of the year. (See Lieutenant Parke's Report.) The first terminus of the Pacific railroad will be Guaymas, on the Gulf of California. From El Paso to Guaymas the dis- tance is only about four hundred miles — at most four hundred and fifty. It will run across the Guzman valley through the Guadalupe or some more southern pass to Arizpe, thence to Ures, thence to Hermosillo, thence to Guaymas. It can be built most, if not all the way, for $10,000 per mile, and put in running condition. It would pay to-day between Hermosillo and Guaymas in freight alone. It will traverse a rich agricultural and mining country, and can connect with San Francisco and all the * See Speech of Jefferson Davis in a subsequent chapter. Acldress before the Geographical Society^ 1859. 53 Pacific by steamers. A branch from Arizona down the valley of the San Ignacio would give Arizona the outlet she so much desires for her productions. It connects with the Texas road at El Paso, and, notwithstanding all the predictions to the contrary, the Texas road will be built. Should it be deemed desirable to extend at once to the Pacific, a steam ferry across the Gulf of California, and short railroad across Lower California to a roadstead on the Pacific, accomjDlishes the desired end. If these views were elaborated, they could be supported by an array of evidence not to be overthrown. In a report made to the Viceroy of Spain during the early settlement of the province of Arizona and Sonora is found the following words : " A scientific exploration of Sonora, with reference to mineralogy, along Avith the introduction of families, will lead to a discovery of gold and silver so marvelous, that the result will be such as has never yet been seen in the world." The Spanish race have but just touched these treasures. It remains for the American people to make good the prediction. With the organization of Arizona and the acquisition of Sonora, a new impetus will be given to the Pacific. The Mexican population will recede before the energy of American ca- reer. At Guaymas a city will go up which shall have no parallel in the magic of her increase except San Francis- co. The auri sacra fames is as strong to-day as in the days of old. Allured by the story of the new El Dora- do which is just opening, tens of thousands of emigrants will hurry thither. Our empire on the Pacific is just founded. Its growth in the future will equal that of the past, if the United States seizes the golden opportunity now oflering. The wealthiest and most delightful of countries will be redeemed from the barbarism into which it is so fast falling. An immense market will be opened for northern productions ; commerce will again be stim- ^* Arizona and Sonora. lUated as it' was by California; and the predictions of Humboldt, that the balance between gold and silver would one day be restored, will be made good from the treasures of Arizona and Sonora. Condition of Arizona from 1859 ^o 1864. 55 CHAPTER 11. CONDITION OF ARIZONA FROM 1S59 TO 1S64. Eapid Advance of Arizona. — Reverses. — Withdrawal of the Overland Mail. — Ravages of the Apaches. — Mining Discoveries. — The Heint- zelman and other Mines. — The Military Position. — The Mowry Sil- ver Mines. — Arrest of the Proprietor. — His Release. — The Mines worked on Government Account. — The Apaches, and how to deal with them. — General Carleton. — Arizona in 1864. — Progress of the Mines.— The Mowry Mines.— Mr. Kiistel's Report. — The Bounda- ries and Organization of the Territory, The history of Arizona since 1859 has two aspects — one of great and steady improvement, the other of calam- ity and decline. The first was the natural result of the development of the great natural resources of the Terri- tory ; the second of fortuitous circumstances, and the shameful abandonment and neglect of the country by the administration at "Washington. The uninterrupted suc- cess of the Great Overland Mail brought in its train a constantly increasing immigration. The valleys of the Santa .Cruz, Sonoita, San Pedro, and Mimbres were rap- idly filling up with farmers, while on the Gila many thou- sand dollars were expended in taking out acequias, and redeeming the rich bottom lands at available points. The Federal Government promised protection, and did, in fact, estabhsh new military posts to protect the infant settlement. These posts, however, were poorly garrison- ed. The troops were mostly infantry — almost useless to pursue or punish the Apaches. The small cavalry force in the Territory, although most ably handled by Captain R. S. Ewell, First Dragoons, United States Army (since Major General Ewell of the Confederate Army), was en- 66 Arizona and JSonora. tirely unable to mak^a campaign with decisive results against the Indians. In spite of this serious drawback new mines were opened, capital obtained in the East for their develoi3ment ; the farmers flourished and built per- manent improvements, and each year showed a decided advance upon the last. The change came suddenly and without warning. The Overland Mail was withdrawn, then the troops, and the settlements in the valleys above-named succumbed almost at once to the attacks of the Apaches. Many lives were lost ; property of all description was abandoned ; crops to an enormous amount were left standing in the ^fields, never to be gathered. Never was desolation so sudden, so comj^lete. In my late journey from Tucson to Guay- mas, I passed over one hundred and fifty miles of beauti- ful country, studded with ranches and farms, where at every step were found comfortable houses, out-buildings, fences, and tilled fields utterly abandoned and tenantless. The mining interest suflered at the same time. Partly through the cowardice of agents and superintendents, partly through the fault of Eastern directors, the various silver mines in Central Arizona were temporarily aban- doned, and I was left with a handful of men who were willing to share my fortune, and, if Fate so willed, it, be the last Americans in the Territory to fall by the lance or arrow of the Apache. We not only survived, but we built up a great work in the heart of the country ; thor- oughly demonstrated the great value of the mines ; and, what is more and better, proved conclusively that the Apaches are no obstacle to working in the Territory, compared to the great result to be accomplished. It is sufiicient proof of this that I did not lose two hours' work in ten months on account of the Indians. Some valuable lives were lost, but it was by recklessly disre- garding my repeated injunctions and directions. Condition of Arizona from 1859 to 1864. 57 The Territory has been occupied by Confederate troops, but in small force, except on the Rio Grande. After their retreat before the forces of General Canby — not General Carleton, as is falsely stated — Arizona Avas occu- pied, and remained in the possession of the California Vol- unteers. The gold fields on the Gila River, alluded to as a new discoveryln my address, proved limited in extent ; and although worked mostly by Mexicans for several years with a large yield of gold, were deserted about a year ago for the more attractive placers of the Colorado. It is said that an enterprise is on foot, under the auspices of well-known business men, to bring water from the Gila on to this ground by steam power. The result can scarcely fail to richly reward the authors of the enter- prise [1863]. At various points along the Colorado, on both sides of the river, gold has been found capriciously disseminated, some spots yielding enormously, others nothing. Chim- ney Peak, eighteen miles l&'om Fort Yuma, was in IsTo- vember and December a favorite locality. La Paz, about one hundred and eighty miles above Fort Yuma, was previously a great attraction, and is since. At this point quite "a village had grown up when I visited it in No- vember, 1862. The population was then about eight hundred, and increasing. No distinct or well-defined ledges had then been discovered, but the most beautiful specimens of gold quartz, silver, copper, silver-lead, and silver and copper I ever saw, had been found, all of which, upon assay, gave astonishing results. I am informed since that extensive ledges have been discovered and are being prospected in this district. Copper has also been found below La Paz, at difierent points on and near the river. Salt has been found near the Colorado in such large deposits as to guarantee a supply of this very nec- C2 58 Arizona and Sonora. essaiy aid to the reduction of the refractory silver ores. Adventurous " prospectors" have penetrated the country lying between the Gila and Colorado, beyond the Desert belt, and, making a temporary peace with the Tonto Apaches, have found on the head waters of the Salinas and San Francisco Rivers and their small tributaries good gold prospects, and an abundance of water for sluicing. All these parties, from whom I have notes of their explorations, confirm the reports made to me sever- al years since by "Weaver, the old " mountain man," and by Apache and Pimo chiefs, of the existence of rich val- leys, heavy timber, and fine pasture -lands north of the Gila. The country li&rth of La Paz, near the Colorado on both sides, is at present attracting much attention, and great discoveries are daily reported. The naviga- tion of the Colorado by steamers to the vicinity of these mines must make them very valuable at no distant day. The mines in Central Arizona, in the Santa Cruz and Santa Rita Mountains, and near the Sonora line, have been fully prospected, and no doubt now exists in the minds of the well-informed of their great value. The Ileint- zelman Mine, now owned, I believe, almost entirely by the heirs of Colonel Samuel Colt, is not at present work- ed, owing, I believe, to the death of Colonel Colt. There is no doubt of the richness of this mine. It was fully proved under the management of Mr. Ktistel. Magnifi- cent machinery for the Freyburg barrel-process, with en- gines of eighty horse power, were sent out from New York three years since, the whole manufactured under the personal supervision of Colonel Colt, whose mechan- ical genius has rarely been surpassed. Jealousy on the part of Western stockholders, and an insane fear that Colt would " freeze" them all out, delayed the erection of this machinery ; bad management at the mine, and other causes, impeded progress until the troops were Condition of Arizona from 1859 jfo 1864. 59 withdrawn from the country, and the last manager for the company, Mr. C. D. Poston, turning over his right to Colt, left for the East. The present superintendent, Col- onel F. T. Lally, ha^, he informs me, opened a new shaft, in whii3h he has struck very rich metal; but, as above stated, work is now suspended. During the temporary abandonment of this mine, the Mexican " gambussinos" carried away immense quantities of rich metal ; and the village of Saric — just over the Mexican line, where the ore was reduced — flourished and grew rich upon the fol- ly of the Eastern managers. The Sopori and Arizona Land and Mining Companies, Avho own a vast tract of mineral, grazing, and arable laud in the Santa Cruz valley and vicinity, have also suspend- ed operations. Their stock is held in good hands, and will be good property. They intend, I am informed, to recommence operations at an early day. Some of the heaviest Eastern capitalists are the princiiDal owners of these stocks. The Santa Rita Company own some valuable mines north of the town of Tubac. They suspended operations at a time when success Avas just in their reach, partly, I believe, from bad management, and partly from the with- drawal of the troops. They will, I presume, recommence, now that a large military force occupies the Territory.* * The separation of Arizona from the Military Department of Cali- fornia is a great mistake. Under any circumstances, if economy and time are consulted, army supplies must be drawn from California, The military posts called Fort M'Lane and Fort Breckenridge were established by the War Department upon the recommendation of the writer, while Western Arizona was placed under the control of Gener- al Clarke, United States Army, then commanding the Pacific Depart- ment. General Clarke did me the honor to consult me on several oc- casions, and at his request I selected a site for a new military post near the mouth of the Salinas, a few miles from the Pimos villages. This post must some day be established. The views of General Clarke were similar to my own in reference to supplying Arizona from Cali- fornia. 60 Arizona and Sonora. Many mines — the San Pedro, San Antonio, Buenavista, Empire, and others in Central Arizona — have been ojDen- ed, but want of capital and the condition of the country- have retarded their development. They will, before long, become permanent and valuable investments. Near the Mexican line, south of Tucson, the Cahuabi and Fresnal Mines are being successfully worked by Senor Padrez and other Mexicans. The patio process is adopted with good results. A large amount of silver is taken out monthly. There is a rich field here for California capital, which must inevitably find its way there before many months.- All the mines above men- tioned, except the San Antonio, are of the so-called hard ores — sulphurets of silver with copper combined. If a sound judgment prevails at Washington (which may be ration- ally doubted), Arizona will be again restored to the command of Gen- eral Wright, in whom the troops, as well as the people, recognize a true-hearted gentleman and intelligent soldier — qualities they have failed to discover in the individual now exercising command over the Territory. It should be said that the reports of travelers by the Southern Over- land Mail, that Arizona is a desert, should be taken cum grano sails. Almost any man unaccustomed to such a journey, w^orn out with fa- tigue and want of sleep, would imagine himself in Hell even if passing through Paradise. It w^ould be about as fair to judge California from San Bernardino and San Diego counties, as to judge Arizona from the country west of Tucson. The letters from the California Column, published in several of the California newspapers, are mostly written to inflate some balloon reputation that will get a woful collapse some day, or to accomplish some private end (for example, the shameful at- tack upon General Canby, a most able, patriotic soldier and gentle- man). They are certainly not intended to enlighten the public. There is no necessity to assert what is deliberately false about the country in order to compliment the march of the California Volun- teers to New Mexico. The march was as good a one as could have been made under so inefficient a general. The men are entitled to great credit, as much for their patient endurance of uncalled-for, un- military, and arduous labors, as for their march. Under a competent commander, the march could have been made in better time, and with far greater ease to the men. Under one who had any regard for the truth, the commander-in-chief and the public would hayp ,had the facts in connection with it, and not a romance which, ^//^Qrthy a place in a new edition of Munchausen. — S. M., 1863. • Condition of Arizona from 1859?ol864. 61 In the Santa Cruz Mountains, about eighty miles east of Tucson, is an immense deposit of silver-lead ores, ar- gentiferous galena, of extraordinary richness. The sul- phurets of lead and silver, mingled with the carbonates, give re^ilts previously unheard of by mineralogists. The only portion of this district yet largely developed is the "Mowry Silver Mines," the property of the writer. The main shaft of these mines has been sunk to the depth of more than two hundred feet, with galleries and auxiliary shafts a thousand feet more. Prospecting shafts have been sunk at various places, and tunnels opened along the lead, on the property of the writer (twenty-six hundred feet in extent), in all of which pay- ing ores have been " struck" at from ten to one hundred feet from the surface. About $200,000 has been expend- ed in the purchase of these mines, erection of reduction works, houses for laborers, and every thing necessary for an extensive and permanent establishment, including steam-engine and mill. Under exceedingly adverse cir- cumstances, in a country abandoned except by my own people, the mines were thoroughly opened, and a large quantity of ore reduced. It was my intention to have used only the reverberatory* process for the reduction of my ores, but, on account of the long continuance of the rainy season of 1861, 1 was forced to begin with the Or- nos Castellanos (the common upright German or Mexi- can blast furnace), exceedingly simple in construction, and requiring but little skill or science to work. Several months' experience w4th these furnaces has convinced me of the great waste in silver resulting from their use, although the w^orking proved remunerative beyond my expectation. I am satisfied that the loss in silver is, * Later experience has proved conclusively that an improved blast- furnace is the best for reducing ores similar to those of the Mowry Mines. The reverberatory furnaces proved a faihire. ISG-l. 62 Arizona and Bonora. under the best circumstances, at least twenty -five per cent., and generally more, owing to careless attendance and the inability to regulate the heat or the blast. The fault was in the construction of the furnaces, not in the j^rinciple. There are twelve of these furnaces at the re- duction works, six of which are run alternate weeks. The yield is of course lead and silver, which is shipped to Euroj^e in bars weighing about seventy pounds each. These bars sell in England at from |200 per ton upward, giving a clear profit over all expenses — mining, smelting, freight, insurance, and commissions — of over $100 j^er ton. A portion of these bars are refined at the mines in the English cupel furnace (the Mexican vaso)^ to suj^ply silver for the payment of current expenses. The silver is moulded into bars, from $2 up to $300, and is a ready and convenient circulating medium in a country where coin exists only in the memory of some individual who has been in California. Twenty-five tons of the Mowry ores were sent to Europe as specimens in 1862. The result was an offer of £50 sterling (-1!;2o0) per ton for the ore as it ran, properly cleaned. The results to be ob- tained from these ores treated by the improved furnace are much greater than by the j^resent method. In June, 1862, the proprietor of the Mowry Silver Mines was seized by a large armed force, under the or- ders of General J. H. Carleton, while in the legitimate l^ursuit of his business, and retained as a political prison- er for nearly six months. This seizure was made upon a false, ridiculous, and malicious charge. After nearly six months' close imprisonment the writer was discharged, " there being no evidence^'' (in the opinion of the court which tried his case), '■'-either oral or documentary^ against hhnf* a charming commentary upon the consti- tutional guarantee to every citizen of " life, property, and the pursuit of happiness." The mines were placed in the Condition of Arizona from 1859 ifo 1864. 63 hands of a dishonest and imcompetent man as govern- ment receiver, who did much damage, caused great loss, and finally, on being obliged to give up his place, made away with nearly all the goods, Avood, coal, arms, and stores at the mines. ISTo improvements wxre made dur- ing this person's administration, and the property now being held by the Federal Government, under pretense of the Confiscation Act, none can bo made by the owner until his property is restored to his j)ossession. This will undoubtedly be done as soon as the authorities at Washington can be heard from, as the seizure was illegal, and dictated by personal hostility on the part of General Carleton.* * The following is an extract from the Journal of the Senate of the United States, June 13, 1864 : "The President jwo tempore presented a message from the Secre- tary of War, covering a report of the Adjutant General, in reply to the resolution of the Senate of May 20, 18G4, relating to the seizure of the silver mine of Sylvester Mowry, in Arizona, by order of Gener- al Carleton, commander in New Mexico, and asking by what authori- ty the mine is now worked, and what disposition is made of the pro- ceeds. "The Adjutant General relates the fact of the arrest of Mr. Mowry, under order of General Carleton, on the 8th of June, 18G2, on a charge of treasonable complicities with the rebels, and in view of a circular is- sued by Brigadier General Wright, commanding the Department of the Pacific, declaring all property of enemies of the United States sub- ject to confiscation. The property of Mowry was also seized, and a board of investigation appointed by General Carleton reported it as their opinion that he had given aid and comfort to the enemy, and that there was, sufficient reason to restrain him of his liberty, and bring him to trial before a military commission. Mowry was then confined, July 2d, in Fort Yuma, California, awaiting trial ; but on November 4, 18G2, was unconditionally released, under orders from our War Department, Judge Turner directing the commander of the fort to investigate the cause, and retain or release the prisoner as might appear right. There being no evidence before the board, he was released accordingly. Since then Mowry has issued notice to the United States District Attorney for New Mexico and to the United States Marshal, alleging illegal seizure of his property, and, on the 12th of December, 1803, filed in the Fourth Judicial l)istrict of Cali- fornia a complaint against General Carleton and the oflficers who acted under his orders in the seizure. It is inferred, therefore, that the prop- erty has passed from the military to the civil authority ; and as to by what authority the mine is being worked, or what disposition is made 64 Arizona and Sonora. * The yield of the mines with the present furnaces, when all are in operation, is about $4500 per Aveek of silver, refined at the mines. The refuse from the refining fur- naces, htharge, is sold in Sonora, to be used as a flux at such mines as the Bronces, Cruzecitas, Mina Prieta, and others containing refractory ores. It is correctly esti- mated that the sale of the litharge will pay all the ex- penses of the mines. As soon as the property is restored by the government to its rightful owner, a number of improved blast furnaces will be erected, and the mines will be made to pay at once 82000 per day. The supply of ore is immense, easily niined and brought to the sur- face, daily growing more abundant and richer. I have been thus specific in the description of these mines to give a clear idea to those who seek investment in mines of the great value of the Santa Cruz district of Arizona. A new mine, called the " Olive," has been discovered, and opened to a considerable depth near the Mowry Mines. It is of the same character, and probably the same lead as that of the Mowry Mines. It is owned by the discoverers, three of my workmen. A controlling interest has been or will be purchased by capitalists here, and by Captain C. E. Mowry. La Esperanza, five and a half miles from the Mowry Mines, almost on the Sonora line, has been opened sufiiciently to demonstrate the ex- istence of an extensive lead. There are nine veins crop- ping out on the surface, which can be tunneled a thou- sand feet below the cropping. The ores are argentifer- ous galena, very rich in silver and lead. It is in all re- spects as valuable a mine as could be desired. It is own- ed by a company organized here, of " solid men," and will be immediately worked on a large scale. of the proceeds, there are no documents on file in the department af- fording information. The report was ordered to lie upon the table and be printed." Condition of Arizona from 1859 to 1864. 65 The experieucG gained by the works of the Mowry Mines will enable the Esperanza and other similar ores to be treated at much less expense, and give large divi- dends at an early day. It is some consolation to me that my mistakes, costly as they have been, will be of in- calculable benefit to those who are now investing their capital in Arizona. Some one had to be the pioneer, and it was perhaps appropriate that it should fall to my lot, as I was the first to introduce Arizona as a candidate for the honors of a new state. The advantage these mines of lead and silver possess over the more refractory ores containing copper and sulphurets is the great ease of reduction. Fire is the only requisite. They contain their own flux. No expensive machinery, quicksilver or salt, or other foreign flux, is needed, and the lead will pay all the expense of working, reducing, and shipping, giv- ing the silver clear in the English or San Francisco mark- et, if shipped in the form of lead and silver bars. If re- fined at the mines, the litharge [greta in Mexican mining phrase) will pay all expenses above stated. The demand for litharge is increasing, and there will always be a good market for it, on account of the working of new mines in Arizona and Sonora. The Pattinson process of sepa- rating lead and silver is cheap and economical of both metals, but at present will not pay as well as the method now in use. In connection with this subject, it is proper to say that the immense advantage Sonora and Arizona have over California or !N"evada for the development of mineral w^ealth is the low price of labor — fifty cents to one dollar l^er day, paid in great part in merchandise at large prof- its. Transportation is also much less. Those interested will do well to inqun-e particularly into these points, as well as into the character of the mines. Both Arizona and Sonora will bear the most searching scrutiny, and 66 Arizona and Sonora. will reward the inquirer. It is as well to say here that capital in large sums is needed for the successful prose- cution of silver mining. This is a condition precedent which must be fully accepted, but with less capital than any where else greater results can be obtained in the countries in question. In Eastern Arizona, near the head waters of the Mim- bres River, gold has been discovered in placers and quartz. A town called Pino Alto has been built up, and at one time over a thousand people worked in the vicini- ty. With the withdrawal of the troops this district suf- fered, but still many remained. The late establishment of a strong military post at this point will assist greatly in its development. The copper mines of ancient fame in the Mimbres have fully sustained their old rejDutation. Smelting works have been erected, new mines opened, and the copper in pigs shipped in wagons to Lavaca, Texas, thence to New York. The copper sold at higher rates than the Lake Superior, and paid a handsome profit to the owners, notwithstanding the great distance it was transported. These mines, as they have been in the past, will continue to be a source of large revenue to the pro- prietors. The mines in the Organ Mountains, near the Rio Grande, are not in operation. The Stevenson, Harris, and others are certainly good mines, and will be made profitable. In other chapters I give some mining notes, written by competent persons from actual observation. The presence of two thousand troops in Arizona, whose number is soon to be doubled, and the orders lately given, will prove the death-warrant of the Apaches. It has been already stated that their bravest and most danger- ous band has been severely punished, with the loss of their principal chief and many men. The subordinate officers of the California Column are eager for the fray, • Condition of Arizona from 1859^ol864. 67 and are the men worthy of all praise for endurance and the qualities which make good Indian fighters. I antici- pate for Arizona a steady and prosperous career. The Apaches — these " devils," as they are well called by the Mexicans — have grown more daring and ferocious in the past few years. Emboldened by the shameful neg- lect of the general government, they stopped and robbed the mails, killed travelers, and at last attacked ranchos. Coming into possession of fire-arms, they grew monthly bolder, until at length, in 1861, gaining a doubtful victory over about sixty XJ. S. troops, commanded by a young, inexperienced lieutenant, they declared and have since) maintained open Avar. The Federal Government has been ' begged, entreated, prayed, to do something, but it has never done it until now. I think I never saw so many astonished and angry faces as I did when reading Presi- dent Lincoln's last annual message to a crowd in Tucson in January last. Yf hen I finished that portion which re- fers to the Indian atrocities in Dacotah and Minnesota — " What !" said every one, " not one word about Arizona or the Apaches ? Why, we have lost ten lives where they have lost one — thousands of dollars where they have lost hundreds." The utter neglect by the government of this Territory is a crime which has brought its own jDunishment, but we have had it to bear. General Carleton, now commanding in Arizona, has a large force at his disposal, and he prom- ises to " clean out" the Apaches root and branch. He can do it with the means at his disposal. If he does not, no punishment is too severe for him. Few commanders have so good an opportunity to become public benefac- tors. He has begun badly, and wasted much valuable time, but he can bravely redeem it.* * I am sorry to say that General Carleton has gone from bad to worse. The Apaches have not been subdued, but have committed their worst outrages under Carleton's weak and cowardly policy. — S. ]M., ISGi. 68 Ariz07ia and Sonora. My own success is amj^le jDroof that the Apaches are not a serious obstacle to the working of mines in Arizona. The clanger to be ajDprehended is on the roads, and this can be avoided by ordinary caution. In fact, almost every disaster has been caused by recklessness or utter careless- ness in taking precautions dictated by common sense. Governor Pesqueira, of Sonora, has oflered a bounty of $100 per scalp for Apaches, and a proportionate sum for animals retaken from them. This should be imitated by the authorities of Arizona. The Pimos and Papago In- dians would be most valuable auxiliaries in the pursuit and massacre of these " human wolves." They lately killed about sixty Apaches and took several prisoners in a single campaign. The children of the Apaches, when taken young, make good servants, and are sold by the Pimos in the Territory and in Sonora. There is only one way to wage war against the Apaches. A steady, jDersistent campaign must be made, following them to their haunts — hunting them to the " fastnesses of the mountains." They must be surrounded, starved into coming in, surprised or inveigled — by white flags, or any other method, human or divine — and then put to death. If these ideas shock any weak-minded individual who thinks himself a philanthropist, I can only say that I pity without respecting his mistaken sympathy. A man might as well have sympathy for a rattlesnake or a tiger. The foregoing paragraphs, with the exception of a few notes, which are dated, appeared in the second edition of this work, published in 1863. I append some notices of the condition of Arizona subsequent to the date of that edition : The eastern portion of Arizona, bordering on the Colo- rado River and thence to the country north of the Pimos villages on the Gila River, has within the past year re- Condition of Arizona from 1859 to 1864. 69 ceived large accessions of population. Gold in quantity- is found on the Salinas, the Verde, and other tributaries of the Gila ; and the silver and copper mines of the Colo- rado region are developing with unparalleled richness. In Southern Arizona work has been commenced anew on the Heintzelman Mine, with results which promise to fulfill all that has been claimed for this noted mine. The Santa Rita mines are also again in operation, with abun- dant capital. The Mowry Silver Mines have produced about their average amount of silver ; and, with the im- proved furnaces soon to be erected, will largely increase the yield. The following is the Report, sent by telegraph, of Gui- do Kustel, Metallurgist and Mining Engineer, upon the Mowry Silver Mines : "San Francisco, April 20, 1864. " The lode, which is over fourteen feet wide, runs east and west, between limestone and granite-like porphyry. It consists of sulphurets and carboilates of lead in man- ganese, often pure, containing iron, frequently in large chambers. Its great advantage is the presence of iron, manganese, lime, and lead, so that the necessary fluxes are in the ore in abundance. The greatest depth worked is 180 feet. There are four galleries. " The present style of furnaces and system of purifica- tion are more like waste than rational working. Never- theless, these furnaces paid all expenses, with 120 men employed. " The present expense of working six tons per day is fifteen dollars per ton. There are many thousand tons of rock out in front of the main shaft, half of which is fit for melting after very simple concentration. "Wood is abundant. Live oak costs one dollar and seventy-five cents a cord. " With furnaces four feet square and ten feet high, and VO Arizona and JSonora. with proper treatment, more silver at less expense could be extracted. The best ore produces $350, the poorest |50 per ton. But, even reckoning mining and reduction at $20 per ton, facts and calculations show that the nett profits of one day's work of twenty tons will be $1280." The Esperanza Mine has been sufficiently opened to de- monstrate its great value, and the San Antonio is at work in a moderate way, giving full promise of proving a mine of the first class. The mining interest of this section suffered a great loss in the death of Mr. J. B. Mills and Mr. Edwin Stevens, my two most valued assistants, killed by the Aj^aches. The imbecile and cowardly policy of the commanding general of the department* has caused the diminution of our people, and a delay in again settling the valleys and opening new mines. Great credit is due to Francis Hinton, of Arizona City, Henry Grinnell, Richard Halstead, and J. F. Yaeger, for their persistent exploration of the Gila and Colorado re- gions for the precious metals. They deserve to reap a rich reward. The Act establishing the Territory of Arizona was ap- proved by the President on the 24th of February, 1863. Section 1 describes the boundaries as follows : " All that portion of the present Territory of New Mexico, situated west of a line running due south from the point where the southwest corner of the Territory of Colorado joins the northern boundary of the Territory of New Mexico, to the southern boundary-line of said Territory of New * Brigadier General James H. Carleton, United States Volunteers. It is understood that Arizona is taken from his command and restored to the department of the Pacific, It has been a matter of great sur- prise that such a man should so long haA'e been retained. Under the new commander it is hoped protection will be given, and this portion of Arizona keep pace with the Colorado region. Condition of Arizotia from 1859 ^o 1864. 71 Mexico be, and the same is hereby erected into a tempo- rary government by the name of the Territory of Arizo- na." This section also provides that Congress may at any time divide the Territory or change the boundaries. The second section makes provision for the appointment of Territorial officers, and extends to Arizona all the laws and enactments of the Territory of New Mexico not in- consistent with the provisions of this act, until they shall be repealed or amended by future legislation. Section 3 enacts " that there shall neither be slavery nor involun- tary servitude in the said Territory otherwise than in the punishment of crimes, whereof the parties shall have been duly convicted ; and all acts, either of Congress or of the Territory of New Mexico, establishing, regulating, or in any way recognizing the relation of master and slave in said Territory, are hereby repealed." The Territory thus organized contains a little more than 120,000 square miles, commencing at a point where the 109th degree of longitude intersects the 27th degree I "^ of north latitude ; thence south on said degree of longi- I tude to the boundary-line between the United States and I old Mexico ; thence west on the said boundary-line to the boundary-line of southeastern California ; thence north on said boundary-line to the 37th degree of north latitude; thence east on said parallel of north latitude to the place of beginning. The white population of the Territory is roughly esti- mated at 20,000, but the number is rapidly increasing. The number of Indians is estimated at from 45,000 to 68,000. About half of these may be set down as friend- ly to the whites, the other half hostile. The capital has been located, at least temporarily, at Fort Whipple. The following are the officers of the Territory: Govern- or^ John IST. Goodwin, of Maine ; Secretary^ Richakd C. 12 Arizo7ia and jSonora. M'CoEMiCK, of New York ; Chief Justices^ William T. Howell, of Michigan, and Joseph P. Allyn, of Connec- ticut ; District Attorney^ Almon Gage, of New York ; Surveyor General^ Levi Bashfoed, of Wisconsin ; 3£ar- s7ia^, Milton B. DuFFiELD, of California; Superintendent of Indian Affairs^ Charles D. Poston, of Kentucky. J^\ Bkrtu on the Mines of Arizona. 73 CHAPTER III. THE MINES OF ARIZONA. REPORT OF F. BIERTU, METALLURGIST * AND MINING ENGINEER, WRITTEN IN FEBRUARY, 1S61. The Mowry (formerly called the Patagonia) Silver Mines. — The Lodes and Ores. — Shafts and Tunnels. — Owners. — Management. — Eagle Mines. — Empire or Montezuma Mine. — Santa Rita Mining Com- pany. — Mariposa Mining Company. — Sonora Exploring and Mining Company. — Cahuabi Mining Company. — Arizona Copper Mining Company. — Sopori Laud and Mining Company. — Arizona Land and Mining Company. — Colorado River Copper Mines. — Stevenson Mining Company. — Harris Mine. — St. Augustin Mining Company. — Coal Mines. — Auriferous Quartz. PATAGONIA, NOW ISIOWEY SILVER MINES. My visit to the Patagonia Mine, now called Mowry Silver Mines, Las lasted four days — the time necessary to give it a full examination in all its parts, and to make a careful assay of its ores. But why was it called the Pat- agonia Mine ? Is it because it is situated in a desert in- habited only by Indians ? Such were the questions I put to myself while traveling, and which I thought might be answered affirmatively. Great was my surprise, howev- er, when, instead of finding, as I expected, barren mount- ains as at Washoe and Mono, I gazed on beautiful land- scapes and a country covered with trees of different kinds, with fertile lands perfectly watered. True it is that the nearest neighbors, the Apaches, are far from being even equal to the Patagonians ; but this, it seemed to me, could not be a reason for giving to such a beautiful spot, which in spring must be covered with flowers, so sav- age a name. Mr. Mowry was perfectly right to alter it. This property, containing about five hundred acres of D 74 Arizona and Sonora. land, is situated ten miles from parallel 32° 20' north lati- tude, which forms the limit between Arizona and JMexi- co, twenty miles from Fort Buchanan, fourteen from the town of Santa Cruz, in Sonora, and at an elevation of 6160 feet from the level of the sea; and a good road, 280 miles in length, and which, with a little repair, might be made excellent, places it in direct communication with Guaymas. By this route, freight from San Francisco to the mine does not go beyond five cents* per pound. The mine is situated on the last hills forming the eastern slope of the Sierra de Santa Cruz, and is bounded on the north- east by extensive plains covered by the mesquit and oak trees, which reach the line of Sonora, whose elevated mountains rise in the horizon. Between these plains and the mine is to be seen the Sierra Espuela, called also Wa- chuka Mountains. The road leading to the mine from Fort Buchanan crosses a range of hills and mountains completely cover- ed with oak, pine, sycamore, poplar, willow, and hazlenut. The land and the hills around the mine are covered with green oak, cedar, pine, and manzanitas. The whole coun- try abounds with rabbits, quails, and wild turkeys. It is not a rare occurrence to meet droves of deer and ante- lopes numbering from twenty-five to thirty. The ama- teur of more intense excitement may also indulge in bear and Apache hunting. About a mile from the mine, and near a little village called Commission, of some fifteen houses, intended for the peons and laborers of the mines, there is a creek, call- ed Commission Creek, which is on the property itself, whose waters never dry up, and which are more than sufficient to run one or several mills. The buildings for residences, and those for stores and furnaces, are halfway * Since reduced to less than four cents. Return freight from the mines is about two cents. F. Biertu on the Mines of Arizona. 15 between the mine and the small village. Near by there is a spring of excellent water, which also never dries up. There are other springs lost in the hills, and which may easily be tm-ned to some purposes. The Lodes and Ores. — The principal lode of the Pata- gonia Mine is composed principally of argentiferous ga- lena, and runs south 85° E. Its thickness, which increases as it dips in the earth — now eighty-three feet in depth — is of about three feet.* Three small veins, excessively rich, cross each other in the main vein, all running in different directions. The size of these small veins varies from ten to nineteen inches. Other veins, whose outcroppings are visible on the top of the hill, and which run in a parallel direction at a great distance, will, according to all prob- abilities, be met with as the working of the mine proceeds. jSTo prospects have as yet been undertaken to ascertain the nature of these veins. The galena of the principal vein contains a small quantity of copper and arsenic. It seemed to me that I detected appearances of zinc, but I had no means to ascertain the fact. An assay of the dif- ferent ores has given results varying from $80 to $706 in silver per ton, and up to sixty-two per cent, of lead. Their reduction is of the utmost facility. The Shafts and Tunnels. — XJnfortunately,f all the oper- ations perfected up to this day are, I might say, useless. The labor expended on shafts and tunnels has been con- ducted so carelessly — the different stratas of earth have been subjected to so little investigation, that while, on one hand, unnecessary expenses and labor have been in- curred, on the other, a quantity of ore, sufficient probably * Much increased in width and richness at the great depth of over two hundred feet. The vein often spreads out into chambers of pure ore of great size, no gangue appearing between the side walls. Two peons have taken out ten tons of rich ore in one day's work. t All this has since been corrected, and the mine worked under the able direction of a skillful mining engineer, Mr. George Habermann. 76 Arizona and Sonora. to pay for the whole expenses of the establishment, has been thrown aside as worthless. Ores which I have picked up on the creek, being assayed, have given the best results that I have obtained. But the actual owners of the mines are not the ones who ought to comj^lain of the bad direction of the works, for, according to my idea, it is principally this bad man- agement which has enabled them to purchase the whole mine at a comparatively low price. However, it will be easy to remedy the evil, either by beginning new works in a more suitable locality, or by modifying those already existing. The quality of the mine is such as to cover, in a short space of time, all the expenses which may be in- curred in a rational manner. The discovery of the Patagonia Mine dates only from the fall of 1858, but it would aj^pear that its existence was suspected long ago, for the first parcels of ore gathered by the Mexicans were taken, at the time of the late dis- covery, from shafts which had been sunk many years ago, and which had been abandoned. The Oimiers. — The first owners were Colonel J. W. Douglass, Captain R. S. Ewell, Lieutenants J. N. Moore, Mr. Randal, Mr. Lord, and Mr. Doss — all belonging to the United States Army excepting the last named indi- vidual and Colonel Douglass. These parties started some preliminary works — sunk shafts, extracted a certain quan- tity of ore, and built up several furnaces for smelting. But, being short of capital for a regular system of reduc- tion on a large scale, two of the principal shareholders, Messrs. Lord and Doss, who had charge of the whole mine, sold their interest during the year 18B3-9 to Mr. E. Brevoort, who thereupon became superintendent of the mine and principal owner. The administration of Mr. Brevoort was not a happy one. The mine, which, as I have before stated, had been F. Biertu on the Mines of Arizona. 77 badly opened and badly worked, being turned into inex- perienced hands, fared much worse. A certain quantity of ore was extracted, but, whether the proceeds were expend- ed in nseless operations, or for any other purposes, they were not sufficient to cover the costs incurred. These failures gave rise to disagreements between the owners, which could not be settled except by the sale of their whole interest, which Captain Ewell and his partners made to Mr. Brevoort this last-named gentleman turning the interest immediately over to Mr. H. T. Titus. But these negotiations did not put a stop to the difficulties, which were renewed on account of the payment of the purchase-money. Consequently, the sale of the whole was resolved upon, and the conveyance took place in the spring of 1860, in favor of Lieutenant Mowry, all the in- terested parties joining in the deed. The price of the mine, including the lands surrounding it, all the works and establishment standing at the time, fixed at 125,000, was paid in cash by the new owner, who some time after sold one fifth to a wealthy capitalist in the East. Hence four fifths of the Patagonia Mine are now held by Mr. Mowry, who has given his name to it. In the hands of the last-named gentleman, and under the direction of Mr. Charles Mowry, his brother, the w^orks will be started with unusual activity. Already preparations have been made to carry on works of a considerable extent, so that next summer the mine will be in full operation. The Managemeyit of the Mine. — The old furnaces hav- ing been badly constructed, and being out of use, they will be replaced by others containing all the later improve- ments, either for smelting or refining. A steam-engine of fifteen to twenty horse power w^ll be put up for the trit- uration of the ores, for the working of the pumps, and to run a saw-mill. The waters of the creek will be gathered in large reservoirs, twelve feet in depth, constructed by 78 Arizo7ia and Sonora, means of thick embankments. Buildings will be put up for the accommodation of the superintendent of the mine and the reducing establishment, and for the engineer and other employes. A laboratory for assays will also be an- nexed to the works. The ores w^ill be carried from the mine to the reducing establishment by a railroad, for the building of which 3ir. R. Jones, Jr., has already taken the preliminary steps. Finally, for the accommodation of laborers, numbering from seventy to eighty, and of the inhabitants on the frontiers of Sonora, a large store will be opened for the sale of all sorts of provisions and mer- chandise. The expenses to be incurred this year to put in operation the different projects in view will exceed the sum of $60,000. Such is the history of the mine, which I intended to re- late to you with details, because within a short space of time it is called upon to rank among mines of the first class. Even now, in the neighborhood, by the abundance and richness of its ores, the facilities for extraction and reduction, and the conveniences of the locaUty, it is con- sidered one of the best in Arizona. Its importance would be greatly increased if a project in which rich capitalists of the East are actively engaged is put in execution, which is to build a railroad betw^een Guaymas and El Paso, in Texas, which would connect with the Pacific Railroad. This road, follow^ing the ridge of the Sierra de Santa Cruz, would run at a distance of only ten miles from Mr. Mow- ry's mine. The mine which I have just described is not the only one to be found in that part of Arizona. The Santa Cruz Sierra, already renowned since the days of the Jesuits, who had opened in that locality the Compadre and French Mines, has lately given evidences of new richness. Be- sides the two which I have just named, the Boundary, Empire, Eagle, and St. Louis Mining Companies form a part of the Sierra. F. Biertu on the 3Iines of Arizona. 79 OTHER MINES. The Eagle Mine. — This mine is situated to the east of the Mowiy Mine, and its vein, composed of argentiferous galena, exactly similar to the Mowry Mine, is, it is stated, its continuation. The San Pedro Mine. — This mine is situated on the east side of the San Pedro River, about twenty-five miles from the Overland Mail road, and half a mile from the river. Eminre or Montezuma 3£me. — I have mentioned above this mine as forming a part of the Santa Cruz Sierra. It is half way between the Mowry Mine and the town of Santa Cruz. The ores are composed of lead and silver. The first owners were Th. Gardner and Hoj^kins, who, it seems, sold their interest out to ^ew York companies. Santa Rita Mining Company. — The Sierra de la San- ta Rita, as that of the Santa Cruz, incloses rich deposits of precious ores. The Cazada, Florida, and Salero Mines are united in one company, under the above title. The last one was known a long while ago, and was worked by the Jesuits. In that one, also, the argentiferous gale- na dominates. Shortly furnaces will be put up for smelt- ing and reducing ; they will be erected on the very mountains of Santa Rita, which are to the east of Tubac, at the distance of about ten miles. The superintendent of the mine is Mr. H. C. Grosvenor, and Mr. Pompelly is the engineer. The capital is $1,000,000. These mines were opened in 1856. Mariposa Mining Company. — This company is work- ing a copper mine, situated forty miles from Fort Breck- enridge, at the junction of the San Pedro and Arrivaypa Rivers, and from three to four miles south of the Gila. The road known as the Leach "Wagon Road, near by, renders the transportation of the ores and provisions 80 Arizona and JSonora. quite easy. It is under the direction of Mr. A. B. Gray, ex-surveyor of the United States, attachedto the commis- sion of the Mexican frontiers, an.d engineer-in-chief of the Pacific Railroad. Mr. Hopkins is the engineer of the mines ; the house of Soulter, of New York, is the princi- pal owner. jSonora Mq)Iori7i(/ and Mining Company. — This mine, situated at about thirty miles from Tubac, in the Cerro Colorado, is one of the jDrincipal mines, if not the richest in the Territory. The company is working the vein known as the Heintzelman Mine, rich in argentiferous coppers, and also several other veins on the Rancho Ari- vaco. The actual and imperfect system of reduction is* by means of amalgamating barrels. Steam-engines of forty horse power, with a new process of amalgamation and refining, will soon be introduced. One of the princi- pal shareholders, Mr. Charles D. Poston, is the director, and at the same time lessee of the mine for the term of ten years. This company was incorporated in Cincinna- ti, Ohio, with a capital of $2,000,000, divided into 20,000 shares. The sum already expended for the working of this mine is estimated at $230,000 either in ready cash or from the proceeds of the mine. Cahiiahi Mining Company. — The mine going by that name is near meridian 112 and 32 north latitude, in a re- gion inhabited by the Papagos Indians. The argentifer- ous copper ores are treated according to the Mexican amalgamatory process known as the jDatio. I have seen specimens from this mine «in the hands of Mr. Herman Ehrenberg, president of the company, of extreme rich- ness. The mine was opened since 1859. Arizona Copper Mining Company. — The bad adminis- tration and the difficulties of transportation have been the main causes why this mine, so rich, and which created so much excitement in California two or three years ago. F, Biertu on the Mines of Arizo7ia. 81. has not given any good results. Its oxides and copper sulphurets are excessively rich, the extraction exceeding- ly easy, and the veins are numerous. Works at this present moment are suspended. This mine is situated 120 miles southeast from Fort Yuma. It was opened in 1855, and the company was incorporated in San Fran- cisco. &opori Land and Mining Company. — The mine of So- pori, opened many years ago, had in Mexico an extensive reputation. The ores extracted were exceedingly rich in gold and silver, but the works were so badly carried on that the vein is lost, and not even any exterior traces of its position is left. A few arastras in bad condition are all that is left of the operations there. The mine forms a part of the Sopori Rancho, of an area of 21,000 acres, situated west of the Mai Pais Sierra, and south of the Canao Rancho, which are both considered as the best ranches of Arizona. The Sopori Company is incorpo- rated in Providence, R. I., with a capital of $1,000,000. Governor Jackson is the president ; Lieutenant Mowry, one of the principal shareholders, is, at the same time, one of the trustees. Arizona Land and Mining Company. — This mine is situated north of the Rancho of Sopori. This company owns a large tract of land, of thirty-two leagues square, on which is situated the old silver mine of San Xavier, which Avas worked during the time of the Jesuits, and which appears exceedingly rich ; other veins, equally rich, are to be found in the centre .of the proj^erty, on the Si- erra Tinaja. The company was incorporated in Provi- dence, R. I., with a capital of $2,000,000. The Honora- ble S. G. Arnold is the president. The treasurer is Mr. Alfred Anthony, President of the Jackson Bank of Prov- idence. Colonel Colt, Lieutenant Mowry, and other rich capitalists of the East, are the actual owners. Mr. Mow- D2 82 Arizona and Sonora. ry is the holder of more, than one half of the stock of the company. N. Richmond Jones, Jr., is the engineer -in- chief of this mine, as also of the Sopori Mine. Colorado Eiver Copper Mine. — About three years ago a Mr. Halstead, well known on the Colorado districts as an indefatigable prospector, discovered this mine on the shores of the river, at about forty miles from Fort Yuma. Having been examined and tested by experts from New York, they found it to be very extensive and very rich. Several tons sent to San Francisco last year were also ad- mitted to be of uncommon richness. Consequently, la- borers were engaged in Sonora, and preparations made to work the mine on an extensive scale. Difficulties, how- ever, eventually arose which prevented the completion of the works. The mine is owned by Messrs. Wilcox, John- son, and Hartshorn, owners of the steamer navigating the Colorado, by Mr. Hooper, principal merchant at Fort Yuma, and by Lieutenant Mowry. Stevenson Mining Company. — This mine has been worked during several years by Mr. Stevenson, according to the Mexican process, and yielded him from 840,000 to $50,000. Afterward Mr. Stevenson sold his mine to Ma- jor Sprague, of the U. S. Army, who organized a company in New York, to which belong General Clarke, Doctor Mills, Mr. Russell, of the Pony Express and Missouri bonds notoriety, and several other persons. The mine appears to be very rich in silver and lead, but it has been wretch- edly administered. The Stevenson Mine is situated on the Rio Grande, not far frqm Mesilla. Harris Mhie. — The mine belonging to this company was discovered several years ago. It was recently pur- chased by Lieutenant Mowry of Judge Hoppin, Mr. CunifF, and Mr. Bull. This mine is also on the Rio Grande, six miles from the Stevenson Mine. The ore is composed of lead and silver. F. JBiertu on the Mines of Arizona, 83 St. Augustin Mining Company. — This mine is also situated on the Kio Grande, and the ores are like the above. Several other silver veins, supposed to be very rich, have been discovered on the same river, but have not yet been worked. All these mines of the Rio Grande are to be found in the hills at the foot of the Organ Mountains. Besides silver, copper, and lead mines, coal mines are also to be found near the Rio Grande in the Organ Mountains, in Arizona Territory. There are also mines of plumbago in the Sierra Rita, and some of iron in different localities. Traces of quicksilver have been found in the Heintzel- man Mine, belonging to the Sonora Company, but they own particularly rich gold placers and veins of auriferous quartz. The new district of Pino Alto, whose placer dig- gings were discovered in May last, and which have yield- ed fine results in gold of a fine quality, is also rich in quartz veins. One of the main ones is the one known by the name of Jackson Quartz Vein, owned by G. A. Oury, of Tucson, P. T. Herbert, and others. The vein was discovered in July, 1860, by J. J. Jackson, on Bear Creek, about thirty miles from the Overland Mail station, on the Mimbres Riv- er, and twenty-five miles from the Gila River. The vein is two feet in thickness, and promises to become exces- sively rich. Specimens taken from a depth of ten feet, and which were handed to me by Mr. Oury, have yielded more than |600 of pure gold to the ton. The persons who have visited the Pino Alto District speak of it as a section of country exceedingly healthy, well wooded, but quite barren in the summer months. A population of 800 to 1000 souls inhabit already the district and the town bearing its name. An express, connecting with that of "Wells, Fargo & Co., runs between that town and Mesilla. Another mine of auriferous quartz, which is stated to 84 Ai'izona and Soiiora. be quite rich, was lately discovered ninety miles from Fort Yuma, on the Colorado. The owners are Messrs. Halstead and Yaeger, residents of Fort Yuma. • On the Mimbres River, ninety miles from the Rio Grande, are to be found the renowned mines of Santa Rita del Cobre, worked by Mexicans many years ago, and well known for their richness. These mines and the Hanover CojDper Mines, situated in the same locality, were profitably worked a long time ago. The coj^per, worked into bars, is sent to ISTew York by way of Port Lavaca, in Texas. Two new towns, Mowry City and Burchville, are also built on the Mimbres River. Auriferous deposits of some importance are also to be found on the shores of the Gila, not only at its source, but all along its course. When we passed by Gila City three weeks ago, nothing was spoken of but the discov- ery of rich deposits of gold on the river. It was stated that Mexicans were gathering from ten to fifteen dollars per day. Besides, at the junction of the Gila and the Colorado, about 300 Mexicans are constantly at work, and obtain excellent pay. The greater part of this gold is forwarded by Mr. Hooper, of Fort Yuma. The particulars I have just given you, although already quite lengthy, are far from containing all that might be stated in regard to the mineral wealth of that Territory ; but I must stop here, as I only intend to give you state- ments entirely correct. [To the foregoing I add, that the reports of the emi- nent metallurgist, Guido Kiistel, who has lately visited Southern Arizona on a scientific tour, show conclusively that it is one of the richest silver regions in the known world. His examination of different mines was thor- ough, and his opinions are founded upon facts. No one is more capable of giving sound oi^inions upon mines and mining. — S. M., 1804.] The Colorado Biver Mmes in 1 864. 85 CHAPTER IV. THE COLORADO RIVER MINES IN 1S64. Mining on the Colorado.— The Eiver and its Navigation.— The differ- ent Mining Districts on the Colorado. — Freight and Passage.— Quality of the Ores.— Mode of Working.— Furnaces and Fuel. The following extracts from the Alta California, pub- lished during the month of April, 1864, present a sum- mary of the condition and prospects of the mining region of the Colorado. It says : In consequence of movements in San Francisco to se- cure the full and cheap navigation of the Colorado Riv- er, mining operations throughout that section are being pushed with energy. Many tunnels and inclines are be- ing run, and shafts sunk. Assays of different ores indi- cate values per ton of $85, $1 10, IVO, and $30. One mill is already at work, crushing chiefly gold ores, and arrange- ments are in progress for the erection of a first-class mill, with the necessary machinery for working silver ores, near the mouth of the river. Large piles of rich ore have been taken out of the various tunnels and shafts, of which there are nine mentioned in the report before us. Ex- tensive discoveries of salt, free from impurities, have been made. It is found in veins similar to the mineral veins, underlying at an angle of 45 degrees, and varying in Avidth from eighteen inches to three feet. Discoveries of coal are also reported. Several mining districts are organized — the San Francisco, Williams's Fork, La Paz, etc. The mines on the extreme lower river are chiefly valuable for copper ; farther up, silver and gold predom- 86 Arizo7ia and 8onora. iuate. The San Francisco Mining Fress^ from the col- umns of which we condense the above, closes its article thus: "The river, which is now attracting a large share of attention, is destined to become one of the most import- ant rivers on the Pacific coast. Its topography and gen- eral characteristics are certainly most remarkable. Tak- ing its rise, as we have already said, in the Pike's Peak mining region, it constitutes simply a mountain stream until it reaches the vicinity of Black Caiion, about eighty miles above El Dorado Canon. From this point to its mouth, a distance of a little over 600 miles, this river is navigable for river steamers of a small draught ; and for 500 miles of this distance the entire country is rich in minerals — gold, silver, and copper — down to its very banks, and to an unknown and unexplored distance .into the interior. All kinds of miners' supplies will soon be delivered along this river, via the Gulf of California, for a price not greater than that now charged for the deliv- ery of goods at Nevada City or Placerville. Freight has already been delivered at La Paz for three cents per pound." The Alta California then furnishes the following de- tailed description of the mining districts upon the Colo- rado, and the modes of working in use there : The mining districts on the banks of the Lower Colo- rado continue to preserve their attractions for a consid- erable number of miners who have been in them for sev- eral years. They have as yet produced little bullion, but they promise to increase in importance, and to furnish no small portion of the gold, silver, and copper crop of this coast. The Colorado Piver empties into the Gulf of Califor- The Colorado Rwer Mines ^?l 1864. 87 nia in latitude 31° 40/ and for ninety-five miles above that point the river runs through a low plain. At Fort Yuma, as we ascend the river, the mineral region com- mences. The various districts are as follows : I. Yuma or Pichaco District^ on the western side of the river, near Fort Yuma. There may be 100 miners, mostly Mexicans, engaged in dry washing for placer gold. There are some rich lodes of silver and copper, and a few veins of auriferous quartz. II. Castle Dome District^ on the eastern side of the Colorado, between that stream and the Gila. There may be 100 miners here engaged in silver mining. The ores are rich, but they are from eighteen to thirty-five miles from the river. Some furnaces are now building for smelting the ores. The chief town is Castle Dome City, which has four or five houses, and is thirty miles above Fort Yuma, by the river. III. Eureka District^ on the eastern side of the Colora- do, twenty-five miles, by land, above Fort Yuma, is twen- ty-eight miles long on the river bank, and twelve miles wide. There are 100 miners there, of whom a majority are Mexicans. The mines are silver, lead, and copper, and very near the river. The country or bed rock is granite and slate ; the silver veins are in pink and white quartz ; the lodes are from two to ten feet thick. The chief town is Williamsport, which contains one stone house and many tents, and is forty-five miles, by the riv- er, above Fort Yuma. lY. Weaver District^ on the eastern side of the river, ninety miles above Fort Yuma. The mines are copper, silver, and gold. The principal town is Olive City, which has twenty houses, and is 150 miles, by the river, above Fort Yuma. The ledges which are now being worked are situated at from six to fifteen miles of the steam-boat landing at Olive City. Among these are the Great Cen- 88 Arizona and Sonora. tral, Colorado, Blue Ledge, American Pioneer, Weaver, Henry Barnard, and others. V. JLa Paz District, on the eastern bank of the Colo- rado, 100 miles above Fort Yuma. It contains 500 min- ers, who are engaged in silver, copper, and lead veins, and in gold placers. There are some Mexican smelting fur- naces at La Paz, the chief town of the district, and ore is regularly shipped to San Francisco. La Paz City has 150 houses, and is 155 miles, by the river, from Fort Yuma. VI. Chemahueva District, on the western side of the river, opposite La Paz. VII. El Dorado Canon District, on the western side of the river, 250 miles, by land, above Fort Yuma, con- tains a population of about 300 miners, and has some rich silver and copper lodes. There are several other districts along the river, but some of them are almost unknown save to a few pros- pectors, who are wandering about in them. The Walk- er Placer Mines, on the foot-hills of the San Francisco Mountains, are 150 miles east of La Paz. The diggings are good there, but the Indians are troublesome. Per- sons bound for those mines, from California, usually go through La Paz. Freight for the Colorado mines, from San Francisco, goes by sailing vessels, in a voyage of three or four weeks ordinarily, to the mouth of the Colorado, at a cost of $20 per ton. There are four steam-boats on the Colorado River; and they charge $25 per ton to Williamsport, and $75 to La Paz, from the mouth. The stream is about 350 yards wide, and the channel averages five feet deep, but it has a swift current, and a bed of quicksand, which is constantly shifting. In the dry season, the steamers have much difficulty above Williamsport in ascending the rapid stream, in which no experience can enable a The Colorado River Mines «m 1864. 89 pilot to know where the channel Avill be to-morrow, how- ever familiar he may be with it to-day. The steamers take six clays in low water in going from the mouth up to La Paz. It is thought the price of freight will fall, in consequence of competition and opposition. Flour at La Paz is worth |9 per 100 pounds. There is not a good silver mill in the whok Colorado county, and not one mine is opened so that a large amount of ore could be supplied at a short time, but the vein stone is known to be good. The Apache Chief and the Providencia Mines, in the La Paz District, and the Carmel, in the Eureka District, among others, have shipped ores to this city. The Arizona Company, in the Eureka Dis- trict, has sent down sacks to hold 500 tons of their ore, rich argentiferous galena, which is to be shipped. The Margarita, River, Norma, Enterprise, Rockford, Gray Ea- gle, Cache Knob, Cocomongo, and Rosario, of the same district, have smelted rich ores in Mexican furnaces. The ores of the two last-named, mines yielded seventy ounces of silver to the ton. The silver ores of the Colorado Valley, or nearly all of them, contain large quantities of either copper or lead, both of them unfitted for amalgamation. No attempt has yet been made to reduce the cupriferous ores ; those are either neglected or shipped to Europe. The chief atten- tion of the miners is turned, therefore, to the argentiferous galena. That found in the Cache Knob and Arizona Mines contains sixty per cent, of lead and sixty to 100 ounces of silver to the ton. This and similar ores are reduced by smelting, which is managed by Mexicans in the rudest manner. The rock is crushed, not with stamps or arastras, but between two flat stones, the upper one being worked by hand. Some of the workmen stop when there are no pieces of ore larger than a hazel-nut, and others will not 90 Arizona and jSonora. have a piece larger than a "pea ; very few msist on reduc- ing the ore to a fine flour, as is done in good silver mills. The finer the ore, the quicker the smelting, and the more thorough the separation of the metal. The furnace is built of stone and adobes, ten feet long, four feet wide, and eight feet high. The inside is lined with clay mixed with bone-dust, this being the best ma- terial to be had there for resisting the action of the fire. The bellows is worked by hand. It is made of canvas, and has two horizontal chambers, each about as wide and half as long as a barrel. These two chambers or bellows are put on a level with a man's breast ; and the workman pulls out the board end of one bellows, while he pushes in the board end of the other. Each chamber has its own pipe, but the two unite, and thus, by the alternate move- ments of the arms, a constant stream of air is kept up. The fuel used in smelting is charcoal, made of mes- quit, which gives a fire of intense heat. Twenty-five or thirty pounds of ore are put in at intervals of ten or fif- teen minutes, and at the end of an hour and a half or two hours they tap the furnace, let out the metal, clean out the slag, and commence anew. The metal which has run out, called a^^lcmcha, weighs from 125 to 150 pounds, and contains only about one half of one per cent, of silver to ninety-five per cent, of lead, with a few other base sub- stances. After all the ore on hand is smelted, refining com- mences. Two or three planchas are put into the furnace and melted, and kept at a high heat. The lead turns to litharge, which is raked off*, and, as the molten metal de- creases in quantity, more planchas are added, until the lead has all been converted into litharge, and the silver remains pure enough to be sent to the market. The lith- arge is worth seven cents per pound, and brings nearly as much as the silver. The Colorado River Miyies in 1864. 91 There arc numerous furnaces of this kind in the Colo- rado region, nearly all of them worked by Mexicans. It is i3lain that, if ore will pay for such working, there nnist be silver in it. The Mexicans offer to pulverize, smelt, and refine for $40 per ton. Some Frenchmen at Olive City have a better class furnace, and rumor says they are doing well. The Americans are anxious to get stamps and good furnaces. The Recorder of the Eureka District, Mr. Spann, is now in this city for the purpose of getting fire-brick for furnaces, for the clay and bone- dust will not last long in a heat hot enough to smelt sil- ver. The Colorado valley may not be equal to Paradise for a home, but it is rich in silver, and silver mines are not generally found in the most fertile valleys and the most genial climes. There are probably no silver mines in the Avorld so near the level of the sea as those at Eureka. 92 Arizona and Sonora. CHAPTER V. SONORA FROM 1S59 TO 1S64. Improvements since 1859. —The Southern Pacific Raih'oad. — The Overland Mail — Guaymas. — Labor in Sonora. — Great Mining Ha- ciendas. — The Mining Districts, Alamos, San Xavier, Las Bronces, Los Cedros. — Price of Labor. — The Jecker Contract for the Survey of Sonora. — Captain Stone's Scientific Commission. — Its Failure. — What it accomplished. — Extracts from Captain Stone's Letters. — What the Contract granted. — Present Condition of Sonora. The prospects of Sonora Lave much improved since 1859. The constitutional power of the state has been boldly asserted, and maintained with courage and ability by Governor Pesqueira ; the disturbances caused by the Yaqui Indians suppressed with a firm hand, revolutions nipped in the bud, and profound peace maintained for a long time past. A new port. La Libertad, on the Gulf of California, above Guaymas, has been opened, giving an immediate outlet to the valuable district of Altar and northeastern Sonora, and to Arizona. A liberal grant has been made by the Legislature of Sonora to an East- ern company, ably represented by General Angel Trias, for the right of way of a railroad from Guaymas to El Paso, to connect with the Southern Pacific Railroad. This road, which would now have been in an advanced state had it not been for the civil Avar in the United States, must some day be built. The extension of the Opelousas Railroad from New Orleans, with the Mem- phis branch to San Antonio, Texas, and El Paso, then to Guaymas, will surely be built before any other road, when wise counsel shall take the place of the madness of the hour, and peace again shed her benignant smile iSonorafrom 1859 to 1864. 93 over our unhappy country. European capital, with the valuable grants in aid of constructing the roacl, was se- cured to a suflScient amount to insure its rapid comple- tion. The calculations on which this foreign aid was procured remain valid, and the development of Sonora and Arizona will increase their value. The great valley of the Mississippi will be placed in easy communication with the Pacific — a communication most devoutly to be wished. An immense item — never yet noted, I believe, in the trade of such a road — will be the freight of un- numbered tons of ores, not sufficiently rich to bear the- j^resent costly transportation. As -a friend, who is more poetical than pious, remarked to me, " God never intend- ed these ores, worth ten or twenty dollars a ton, to re- main useless forever." I see no reason to change, in any degree, my opinion of the great superiority of the south- ern route along the 32d parallel for the Overland Mail and Pacific Railroad. A temporary and partial success during the very mild winter of 1862 and '63, of the Northern Overland Mail, is no decided proof in its favor. " One swallow does not make summer." The advantage of climate — and vastly less cost — is indisputably with the southern route. I have therefore reproduced, in a subsequent chapter, an extract from the speech of Senator Davis, and my own brief remarks. I stand by them, and am willing to risk what little of reputation I may have on their accuracy. A considerable amount of Eastern capital has been in- vested in city lots in Guaymas, and landed property near- this magnificent port. The founderies of this city (San Francisco) are turning out engines, mills, and costly ma- chinery for the several mines owned in part here. The steam-ship line established between San Francisco and Guaymas is not only a permanent institution, but the com- munication will soon be greatly facilitated by the addi- 94 Arizona and Sonora. tion of another steamer to the route. The last steamer went full to her guards with freight and passengers, and this is but the beginning. I am drawing no fancy j^ic- ture. The reader can inquire for himself. I rej^eat, with a sincere conviction of their truth, the words of Ward in his able work on Mexico : " I am aware that many of the statements in this and the preceding books, respecting the mineral riches of the north of N'ew Spain (Sonora, Arizona, Chihuahua, and Durango), will be thought ex- aggerated. They are not so. They icill he confirmed by every future report; and in after years, the public, famil- iarized with y«c^5 — which are questioned only because they are new — icill icooider at its present incredidity^ and regret the loss of advantages lohich may not always be icithin its reach,'''' I submit the descriptions contained in the following chapters of various mines in Sonora to the attentive con- sideration of the public. Detailed notices of La Cananea, Cieneguita, and others, are given, not to show that they are the only good mines, but as types of different classes of mines which are found in the state. The question of labor is one which commends itself to the attention of the capitalist : cheap, and, under prop- er management, efficient and permanent. My own ex- perience has taught me that the lower class of Mexicans, with the Opata and Yaqui Indians, are docile, faithful, good servants, capable of strong attachment when firmly and kindly treated. They have been " peons" (servants) for generations. They will always remain so, as it is their natural condition. The master, if he consults his own interest, and is a proper person to carry on extensive works, is (in their own language) their " amo y patron^'' — " guide, philosopher, and friend." They depend upon him, and serve him willingly and well. I can fairly assert that, although having large pecunia- /So9iora fro77i 1859 to 1864. 95 ry interests in both Arizona and Sonora, I have not exag- gerated the advantages or pahiated the drawbacks to the investment of capital and personal enterprise in these states. They are part of the Pacific Empire, in which I claim a citizenship of more than ten years. In these pages I have had but one desire : to state things as they are, and, in the spirit of an honorable ambition, to con- nect my name, in a permanent and useful way, with her magnificent progress to a place among the powers of tlie world. To appreciate what wonderful internal resources Sono- ra has, one should visit the Hacienda de la Alameta, fif- teen miles from Hermosillo, owned by Don Manuel Yiii- go, or of La Labor, owned by the Astizarans. A few weeks since, with a member of the Yiiigo family, I went over the Alameta. There are miles of wheat, corn, and sugar-cane. An immense field is being cleared for cot- ton. Some specimens of the cotton, of good, fine staple, growing wild, were exhibited. A flour-mill of the best description, with abundance of water power ; sugar mill and works ; a manufactory of blankets, the wool for which, and the dye-stufis, are grown on the place; a wagon manufactory is also carried on for the sole use of the ha- cienda; tobacco also is produced, of excellent quahty; oranges, lemons, pomegranates, and other tropical fruits, of delicious flavor, are grown in abundance. These j^laces are simply principalities, where a man has all the prod- ucts of the earth under tribute and at hand. The large cotton mill near La Labor, at San Miguel, has been ofier- ed to San Francisco capitalists on liberal terms. The cot- ton can be raised at its very door. Indigo, Brazil wood, cochineal, and other dye-stufis, grow spontaneously in the Yaqui and Mayo valleys ; also cofiee of the best quality. The following are some of the principal mining dis- tricts of the State of Sonora : 96 Arizo7ia and Sooiora. Alamos is situated some 240 miles southeast from the port of Guaymas. This district is particularly rich in silver leads. The principal or most noted mines are Nue- stra Senora de V:ilvanero, in the small Real of Promon- torio, five miles north, which has been owned and work- ed by the family of Almadas for the last century. The present owner, Don Jose M. Almada, is now working a deposit of black ores, which he found at a depth of 600 feet, with surprising results. His reduction works are situated at Los Mercedes, about two miles to the east of Alamos. The mines of Dios Padre, Santo Domingo, Lib- ertad Cotera, and many others, are in the immediate vi- cinity of Fromontorio. The Real of Minas Nuevas, about two miles east of Alamos, contains many rich mines; among them San Jose Uvalama, D;scobredora, Rosario de Talpa, Sambono, and others. The Rosario de Talpa and the Sambono are now successfully w^orked by Juan A. Robinson, of Guaymas, and T. Robinson Bours, of Stockton. The district of Alamos contributes very large- ly to the export of silver from Sonora. San Xamer is distant about 140 miles from the port of Guaymas in a northeast direction, and about the same distance southeast from the city of Hermosillo, aj^proach- able from both points by an excellent wagon road. This is one of the oldest and richest mineral districts of Sono- ra. There are many mines situated within a radius of about three miles, viz., Las Bronces, Las Cruzecitas, Las Afucsenos, Las Cumbres, La Division, La Naguila, Las Animos, La Sierra, and many others. The most import- ant are Las Bronces, worked by Don Mateas Alsua, who has erected extensive reduction works, having stamps, barrel furnaces, etc. ; his ores are treated by the Freyburg process, yielding about $1000 per day. Mr. Alsua is also working the Naquila. Las Bronces is situated about 200 yards lower down Sonorafrom 1859 to 1864. 97 than Las Cruzecitas. The latter, which now belongs to the Las Cruzecitas Mining Company of this city, has been extensively developed ; ten tons can be raised daily, and, when farther elaborated, will yield much greater quanti- ties. The vein, which is particularly well defined, in- creases in width and richness as it descends ; and now, at a depth of 145 feet, the vein is nine feet wide. The ore of the pilares is very rich, while that from the mine averages over $150 per ton all through. The petanqiie (the miner's name for rich sulphurets of silver) extract- ed from the lower excavations assays over $3000 per ton of 2000 pounds. The company will erect reduction works at the mines, and think to be in operation about the 1st of October next. The company is managed by persons of wealth and high responsibility. About fifteen miles fron San Xavier is San Antonio de la Huerta, at which place is located La Mina Prieta Musidora and other valuable mines. In the district of Saquaripa are many valuable mines of both gold and silver; the famous Mula- tas Mine has yielded millions of fine gold, and the Ciene- guita Mines, worked by Mr. Robinson, of Guaymas, are in that vicinity. ILos Gedros^ belonging to Don Jose Santos Terminel, is situated in the district of Barroyaca, near the small town of Tesopaco, forty -five leagues from Guaymas in the direction of Alamos. This is a very rich mine, and has been extensively worked. It is surrounded by rich and arable lands. A permanent stream of water flows in the vicinity of the mine. The State of Sonora is particularly favored for mining operations, having plenty of fuel, pasture, and water, labor being abundant and cheap ; common laborers, " peons," to be had at from thirty -seven and one half cents per day, and furnace -tenders at from fifty to seventy -five cents. E 98 A7'izona and JSonora. I proceed to give a brief history of the Jecker contract for the survey of the State of Sonora. In the year 1857, Messrs. Juan Bautista Jecker & Co., Don Antonio Escandon, and Don Manuel Payno, of the city of Mexico, on the one part, and J. B. G. Isham, of San Francisco, California, on the other, entered into a contract for the survey of the public lands of Sonora. The contract was based upon a grant to the house of J. B. Jecker & Co. by the general government of Mexico, the terms of which were an absolute transfer of one third of all the public lands (terrenes baldios), with the right of purchasing any portion of the two thirds remaining to the general government for cash, in preference to any person offering the same sum. The condition of this grant being an accurate survey, with maps, of the jDublic lands, with the most exact description possible of the cli- mate, productions, and advantages for commerce and agriculture. The time allowed for this survey was three years. By a series of deeds, this contract became vested in the hands of Jecker & Co., J. B. G. Isham, S. W. Inge, J. Mora Moss, Wm. M. Lent, and James E. Calhoun. A scientific commission was organized under the command of Captain (now General) Charles P. Stone. Perhaps never before was so excellent an organization for a similar purpose, consisting of so many accomplished men in each depart- ment. Vessels were purchased for the survey of the coast. The head-quarters of the commission were fixed at Guay- mas, and the survey carried on for a long time with a vig- or and accuracy which promised an early and successful completion of the work, thus securing to the contract- ors a property whose value can hardly be estimated in ordinary figures. Difiiculties sprang up between the state government and Captain Stone, which at first delayed, then entirely Sonorafrom 1859 to 1864. 99 paralyzed the work, and, finally, the scientific commission was expelled from Sonora by the government of the state. It is no province of mine to enter into the merits of this difficulty. There are two radically different versions : On the one hand, Captain Stone being charged with violating the laws of the state, and fomenting revolution ; on the other, it is claimed that the state government's action was illegal and uncalled for. The commission proceeded to Arizona and built a little village, where it remained idle for months. Captain Stone appealed to the U. S. govern- ment for protection, and demanded to be reinstated in his rights in Sonora. The U. S. government did not sustain him. Negotiations with eminent capitalists for more funds in N'ew York, all completed, were broken up by the continued opposition of the government of Sonora, and other causes, and the work has not been renewed. The regular protests and legal steps were taken to se- cure the rights of the owners of the contract, and a very able oj)inion from Caleb Cushing as to the validity of the contract, and its binding character on the Federal Govern- ment of Mexico, was obtained. This opinion was answer- ed at length by Mr. Monteverde, Secretary of State for Sonora, in a paper which is claimed by his friends and the opponents of the Jecker contract to be able and conclu- sive. About $250,000 was expended in the survey as far as it had progressed, and a much smaller sum would have completed the entire work. It should be added that this contract in no way invalidates private titles to lands or vested rights. It includes the "terrenos baldios" — that is to say, " all the property of the Federal Government, waste lands, the old presidios, the Jesuit and Franciscan Missions, the lands of barbarous tribes of Indians, ene- mies of the white race, who have never submitted to the laws ; and, lastly, the lands occupied by private Individ- 100 Arizona and Bonora. uals to which they have no legal title, comformable to Mexican laws." From the letters appended, it will be seen how much had been accomplished. I was in Sonora in 1858, and saw a considerable portion of the work, and since many of the maps. They do great credit to Stone, Jasper and Robert Whiting, engineers, and to the other gentlemen of the survey. It is hardly necessary to add that the own- ers of the Jecker contract fully believe in its validity, and in their ultimately receiving the benefits of it.* They are men of capital and enterprise. They undertook and car- ried on the work in good faith, and in a manner commen- surate with its magnitude and the great return they were to receive. The benefit to a state of such a survey can not be overestimated, and it is doubtful if it would have been undertaken, except under a liberal contract, for many years. Extracts from Coj-respondence of Captain Stone, Chief of Commission. Guaymas, May 19, 1S5S. The engineers on board have carried their work on Pinacati Bay about thirty-six miles, which will bring in between seven and eight hundred thousand acres more of public lands. They have also sur- veyed George's Island. For the past ten days I have had a party at work on a large rancho about four miles from town, which extends six and seven leagues on the coast. This survey enables us to stretch up the coast and take in some public land in that direction. June 11. Specimens of minerals and dye-woods are constantly brought me, and I can now, on my own knowledge, declare Sonora to be the richest in natural productions of the states of Mexico which I have seen, and those nearly all. July 11. I have ready two more detail maps, embracing about 400,000 acres, and there will be a third nearly ready containing 375,000 more. * It is stated that Mr. Jecker has been recognized as a French citi- zen, and will receive the protection of the Emperor Napoleon in assert- ing his rights in Mexico. Sonorafrom 1859 ^o 1864. loi July 31. You may be confident that, once settled, the lands of the Yaqui Valley will exceed those of Texas in her best parts. Three crops can be grown there each year, and the soil is inexhaustible. Had I half a million, I would venture it, knowing what I do, on this enter- prise. I send you detail maps Nos. 2, 4, and 5. Aug. 15. I send you detail map No. 8. Before this letter reaches you I shall have notes for mapping the whole of that portion of the coast south of Guaymas, one hundred miles of coast near Tiburan, and a large body of lands adjoining that coast. These surveys will embrace many hundred square miles of the most valuable lands in the state, and nearly all public lands. I assure you that, with a little patience, this contract must turn out many millions. If I am not crippled for the want of funds, I shall have the entire coast for a depth of thirty to forty miles ; the entire north line for an equal depth ; the entire southern line, and a part of the eastern, accomplished before the end of winter ; but if funds fail, I shall be forced to abandon the grandest and richest enterprise which has been undertaken in this country by private individuals.* The action taken by the governor diminishes our labors immensely, for now I am not obliged to measure separately the private lands, but work as best I can, and your rights under the contract are " conserved, although the limits may remain pendent through the action of what- ever civil or military authority or tribunal of justice." I have just dispatched a new set of maps, furnished for the use of the judge who, during these troublous times, is to hold his sittings in Mazatlan, and on the approval, the titles to all surveyed will be issued immediately. You will thus soon find yourself the owner of some millions of acres not taxable. Survey of Sonora, Office of Chief of Commission,> Guaymas, Nov. 25, 1S58. j Col. S. W. Inge, Washington, D. C. : At Mr. Moss's request, I have had constructed, and herewith inclose to you, a map, showing the amount of work done. It shows all that we can now send in, but not near all that we have partial notes of. Slight reconnoissances will enable us to use a great number of notes which we have on hand, but which require connecting explanations. I beg you also to see immediately Doctor Thomas Antisell, the ge- ologist appointed for the commission ; he is now in the Patent Office. * The foregoing letter was written before Messrs. Inge and Moss ad- vanced the money named in their contract with Mr. Calhoun. 102 Arizona and /So?iora. Please furnish him with three thousand dollars — two thousand on ac- count of pay, and one thousand with which to purchase instruments, etc. — and dispatch him here by the Overland Mail. His services Avill be ot immense value, both before and immediately after annexation. The lands surveyed in the Yaqui, Mayo, and Fuerte Eiver valleys are rich beyond estimate, and immense bodies of them are public land. Dr. Antisell will be invaluable in getting possession of mines, select- ing those of value, and rejecting those not worth the trouble and ex- pense. You have the foundation of one hundred great companies in your contract — great land companies and great mining companies. Do not lose one moment in communicating with me after you re- ceive this, and please send me authority to draw on New York and on San Francisco, for, if I must carry out the entire contract under the estimate, I must have funds so as to not be obliged to contract the operations. You can not, so far away, conceive even the value you have. Do not allow the matter to fall through by delay, which will be as bad as abandonment. I shall write you by every possible opportunity, and send maps as fast as they can be constructed. I have a beautiful chart of this port and neighborhood, but can not get it copied in time to send now. Captain Davis has commissioned Mr. Whiting (one of our engineers) as his clerk, and made him bearer of dispatches to Fort Buchanan, whence they will be forwarded by the commandant. I remain, dear sir, yours very truly, Charles P. Stone, Chief of Commission. The development of the mining interest of Sonora by American capital has largely increased during the years 1863 and 1864. Many new mines have been opened, and the prospects of nearly all are good. Among the most prominent mines opened lately are Las Crnzecitas, Cor- ral Viejo, and El Refugio, the latter on the border of Chihuahua. Trade with San Francisco has largely in- creased, and is increasing. 3Unes of La Ga^xanea and Cieneguita^ Sonora, 10^ CHAPTER VI. THE MINES OF LA CANANEA AND LA CIENEGUITA, SONORA.* La Cananea: Early Working of the Mines.— Don Ygnacio Perez.— The Sierra of La Cananea.— Condition of the Mines in I860.— Their Situation.— The different Mines.— The Ores.— Chamunque. —Access to the Mines.— Assays of Ores.— ia Cieneguita: Situation of the Mines.— Early Working.— Their Abandonment.— Titles. — Location.— The Mines.— The Hacienda.— Fuel, Water, Building Materials, Wages, Provisions, etc.— Eesume. —Assays of the Ores of La Cieneguita. La Cananea.— When or by whom the mines of the Cananea were first opened is lost with the missing min- ing records of the State of Sonora. Long periods of rev- olution, Avhich checker the annals of that unhappy prov- ince, have caused the dispersion and destruction of the archives, and have even extinguished the faint and flick- ering torch of tradition. Seventy years ago or more they were worked on a large scale, and with great energy, by the house of Guea, of Chihuahua, but when that house went down in the disturbances which marked the advent of the century, the mining enterprise was abandoned, and remained in abeyance till the epoch in which Don Ygnacio P5rez re- established their exploitation. On the death of the elder Perez, his son, the second Don Ygnacio, continued the works but a short period, when, either from pecuniary embarrassment or Indian troubles, he stopped all opera- tions on the Cananea, devoting himself exclusively to the care of his numerous and extensive haciendas. Subsecpently to the great rising of the Apaches de * Reports of Robert L. D'Aumaile, INlining Engineer and Assayer for the State of Sonora. 104 Arizona and JSonora. Paz in 1831, Don Ygnacio Perez recommenced operations in tlie district under the superintendence of his brother Bon Francisco, and ultimately under that of John P. Brodie, who erected new reduction works, and continued in charge till their final abandonment, owing to the fail- ure of the proprietor, and renewed Indian difficulties in 1837. Don Ygnacio Perez retired to Mexico, where he died about three years since in deep poverty, leaving his affairs in inextricable confusion. His widow, a daughter of General Urrea, remains in Mexico ; his son, Francisco, resides in Ures. Two surviving brothers, Felipe and Francisco, reside in Arizpe andTJres respectively. None of these have any legitimate claim on the mines of La Cananea. The Sierra of La Cananea is situated about twelve leagues southwest of the presidio of Santa Cruz ; about eighteen southeast of that of San Pedro ; probably thirty- five miles southerly from Fort Buchanan, and not far from the American line. The mines (worked) are seven in number, of which the principal are El Ronquillo, La Chivatera, San Rafael, Santo Domingo, La Mina de Cobre Pobre, and La Mina de Plomo de Arvallo. In addition to these are LaMariquilla (of white copper), El Taj o (the ancient mine), and others ; in fact, the whole region is strongly mineralized and of most prepossessing exterior. The Hacienda de Beneficio of Perez & Arvallo is on El Ritto, a permanent stream at the foot of the mountains, about a mile or a mile and a half from the mines. The greater portion of the road is excellent, and the remain- der can be readily made so. The Governor of Sonora* being strongly impressed with the extent and value of the mineral deposits of the * La Cananea is the property of Don Ygnacio Pesqueira, present governor of Sonora. It is said a large capital is to be invested in this mine by foreigners. Mines of La Cananea and Cieneguita^ Sonora. 105 Cananea, at his request I undertook its exploration, and in the middle of March of the present year, under escort of Don Santiago Garcia, Prefect of Arizpe, visited the lo- cality. We found the old hacienda a mass of ruins, over- grown with rank vegetation, but the new one erected by Mr. Brodie in such a state of disrepair that an expendi- ture of half its cost would probably suffice to restore it to its pristine condition. All the machinery had been destroyed by the natives in order to steal the metal- work, and most of the roofs had fallen. The situation is pleasant — on the borders of a vast plain, covered with wild horses, which stretches away to the San Pedro ; and much arable, with any quantity of grazing land, lies immediately around the site. Half a mile or so up the valley brings us to the mine of El Ron- quillo, called also, from its refractory ores, La Maletiosa, with its ancient hacienda. This mine was the property of Arvallo, and in dispute with Perez, who never worked it, being driven off by the Apaches. Government could not supply me a guide, and all the information I conld obtain on this and the other mines has been drawn from various, scattered, and irregular sources, and should not receive entire credence. I consulted all the existing books of the enterprise in Arizpe, but they threw no light on any thing except the most obvious of all, San Rafael. El Ronquillo has a thickness of three and a half or four feet of very rich ore, worked to a depth of eighty feet. It has several mouths, is full of water to the brim — which water comes from copious sj^rings in the lower workings, and a ravine which passes across the vein — and, from its situation upon the gentle slope of a hill, which gradually merges into the plain beneath, can not be drained by a tunnel, but recourse must be had to steam machinery. No ore of this mine was found in the debris or the Iiaci- enda; but I ordered search made in all the slag- heaps, E 2 106 Arizona and Sonora. and the lead extracted, of which the assay is annexed, shows that the ore was extremely rich. Passing np the ravine, we crossed in the path more than one outcrop of copper ore, into which a pick had never been struck, but which, on assay, yielded a fair per- centage of copper, and a quarter of a mile above reached the mine of La Chivatera. La Chivatera is situated on a steep declivity, admirably adapted to tunnel- drainage, and is half full of water. It bears every external evi- dence of being a powerful vein, but I am assured by Mr. Brodie that it is really an irregular deposit. The ores are various, of copper, silver, and lead, those of copper prevailing. The teneros are full of good ore, and at their feet flows a permanent stream, unfit for use from mineral impregnation, but well placed to wash the rubbish. In fact, the ore thrown away in the teneros, lying in the hac- iendas, and metal wasted in the slags, would form a re- spectable fortune for a man in Europe. Three hundred yards higher up lies a great open cellar, for I can compare it to nothing else, with a small pile of refuse lying at one side : this is the mine, or Tajo of San Rafael. Judging from the small amount of earth visible, and the statements of the old administrador, it is nearly a solid mass of ore. You have ore on all sides in the level, so that it is impossible to tell where the vein is. This ore is ductile and most easily reducible — it flows like water in the furnace. The supply is aj^parently in- exhaustible. Farther up the glen is the Mina de Plomo de Arvallo, of the same character as San Rafael. The ores of these mines appear to consist principally of oxide and sulphate of lead, although vast masses of galena are found, and are so soft that a single barretero can throw down many tons a day, while the cost of extraction is nothing. The holes appear of trivial dimensions, and yet they have 3Iines of La Ccmanea and Cienegidta, ^onora. 107 been worked from time immemorial, and the litharge, or jugas, from San Kafael have supplied all Northern So- nora with that necessary article, and they have ever form- ed an article of export to Jesus Maria and other great mining towns of Central Chihuahua. Continuing our course and passing some false veins, we reach the mine of Cobre Pobre. The ore of this mine is boundless in extent, but of inferior quality, and I paid it but little attention. Near this point is the great vein of La Mariquilla, which I could not find for want of data, and of course did not visit. I had been assured that it was in the Sierra of la Mariquilla, four leagues to the northward (and it seems there is some mine there), and that the discoverer was dead and the site nearly forgotten. This mine, from its great alleged dimensions and the richness of the ores, had great interest for me, especially as the cause of its abandonment was the fact of its producing white copper. I had hoped that it might be a counterpart of the "paktong" of China, or the white copper of Hildburghausen, the prototype of German sil- ver; but the accounts were so obscure, conflicting, and contradictory that I could make nothing of it. Felipe Perez, sent by his father when a boy to learn book-keeping at the hacienda, recollects distinctly being shown it once by his father, who remarked, incidentally, that it was a magnificent vein, but useless, as it yielded nothiug but white copper. He places it in the Sierra of the Mariquilla, but his organ of locality is so bad that he loses himself in his own garden. Francisco Perez, who received $1000 a month from his brother to respohlar (literally to repopulate) the Real, asserts, on the contrary, that there never was any mine of white copper, but that this designation was applied to the grayish alloy of cop- per, lead, and silver extracted from the " arenillas" of La Chivatera. Brodie, in turn, confirms Felipe's statement, 108 Arizona and Sonora. professes to know the vein well, and says that he smelted into one pig a number of small ingots left in the hacienda by the elder Perez and dispatched it to Hermosillo, where it was examined by Gandara, old Monteverde, and the other experienced miners, who pronounced it silver, but professed themselves unable to purify it. A similar oc- currence fell under my notice in Mulatos. Brodie de- scribes it as having the qualities of copper when smelted, cooling brittle, with a coarse grain, and the color and other properties of impure silver. El Tajo, the most ancient mine, is a huge rent in the earth like the Panys Mine in Anglesey, but the ores changed at the depth of thirty feet, suddenly, into py- rites. It is probable, from analogy, that these pyrites are argentiferous. Immense masses of a black rock were abandoned by the ancient miners in the walls under the supposition, probably, that they were black slate, it ap- pearing to me that they resembled a semi-stratified sili- cate of the dinoxide of copper. I carried away a frag- ment, whose analysis verified my conjecture. Other mines of argentiferous galena, varying from twelve to 3200 ounces per ton, are alleged to exist near the Ojo de Agua de Arvallo ; but, having seen them, and entertain- ing very little hopes of seeing the latter, I forbear dilat- ing on their alleged extent and productiveness. Of all these mines, the only one which needs steam power for its drainage is El Ronquillo, and the oaks (former growth), though they have not recuperated per- fectly since the days of the old metal-seekers, are yet so abundant as to afford an ample supply of fuel for that purpose and the uses of the reduction works. Besides the oaks, there are vast and most accessible forests of chamunque, a species of pitch pine of great strength and durability, excellently adapted for machinery and build- ing materials. Mines of La Canmiea and Cieneguita^ Sonora. 109 To convey an idea of the strength of this chamunque, I may mention that one of the legs of my portable cot, made of the best quality of ash, having yielded to the strain and broken, I replaced it by a piece of chamunque from the ruins, of much less area, and, despite twenty- three years of exposure to the inclemency of the weather, the substitute answered perfectly, being stronger, in fact, than when first hewn. The mines are accessible by a good wagon-road vm Santa Cruz from Fort Buchanan, Tubac, la Piedra Para- da, and Guaymas, and are surrounded by the great (de- populated) haciendas of San Bernardino, El Ojo de Agua de Arvallo, another Ojo de Agua, Cuitahasa, el Agua Es- condida, Las Animas, and Bacanuche. Another road, called a wagon -road, passes by Bacuachi, Arizpe, Ures, and Hermosillo to Guaymas. Its position is romantic and delightful ; pasture exists green in Bacanuche all the year round, and of most nutritious quality. Cultivable land of considerable extent is found in the same hacien- da, which is the natural feeder of tlje Real. The mines themselves are said by Felipe Perez to be on public land — a narrow strip or sohraiite between three ranchos. All the necessaries of a great establishment — building mate- rial and fluxes — abound in excess. Building stone, gran- ite, fine marble, tepustete arenillas, jugos, and ayudas, are plentiful, and during my search for the lost mines of Las Lamas and Espiritu Santo on the road to Bacanuche, I found a vast deposit of most refractory furnace sand- stone, the first I have seen in Sonora. The water is good and the locality healthful, and its proximity to the American military stations of Fort Bu- chanan and Arrivaypa would render feasible a project of united action against the Apaches, who operate at a dis- advantage in the wide plain that stretches av/ay to San Guaychequo and the San Pedro. 110 Arizona and Bonora. Assays were made in Arizpe from the 24th to the 29th of March, 1860, of ores from the Cananea and metal from the scoria of the smelting furnaces, the latter to determ- ine the richness of the ores formerly reduced, and to dis- pel a universal vulgar error extant in Arizona and Sono- ra to the effect that the copper of La Cananea and Santa Rita de Cobre contained from 0.80 to $1 00 of gold per Spanish lb. The following were the results . Assay No. 785. .500 grammes lead from slags of San Rafael. Silver — .092 per cent. =3 marcos, 5 oz. 7 adarmes per tonelada de 2000 lbs. Gold — traces. Assay No. 786. .500 gms. lead from slags of El Ronquillo. Silver — 1 per cent. =2 m. por quintal=40 m. por ton. Gold — 1 oz. 3 ad. por ton. Assay No. 787. 2000 gms. copper from slags from old hacienda. Silver — .075 per cent. =24 oz. por ton. Gold — traces. Not determined. Assay No. 788. 2000 gms. copper from new hacienda. Silver — .11 per cent. =41 oz. 12 ad. por ton. Gold — too insignificant to determine. Adulterants — lead, carbon, iron, sulphur. Assay No. 789. Ores of Baranuclie. Assay No. 791. .205 gms. pure galena (ayudas), Ronquillo. Lead — 83 per cent. Silver — 1 per cent. =32 oz. por ton. Gold — slight traces. Assay No. 792. .100 gms. (false ore) metal de todo brosa, Ronquillo. Silver — 1.25 per cent. =40 oz. Gold — large quantity. Assay No. 794. .100 gms. copper ore, La Chivatera. Silver — .037 per cent. =12 oz. por ton. Assay No. 795. .100 gms. same ore. Copper — 32.5 per cent. Lead — 20 per cent, (by calculation). Assay No. 796. .100 gms. copper ore from untouched outcrop. Silver — none found. Copper — 32 per cent. Assay No. 797. .100 gms. yellow ore of La Plomosa. Silver — .165 per cent. =52^ oz. por ton. Gold — traces. ieac/— estimated in 60 per cent. Veiy fusible and docile. Assay No. 798. .100 gms. metal negro de San Rafael. Silver — .20 per cent. =64 oz. por ton. Gold — good ley. L^ead — not determined, but mny reseco. Assay No. 799. .100 gms. ore of La Escalera. Mines of La Cananea and Cieneguita, Sonora. Ill Silver— .OS per cent. =25 oz. 10 ad. por ton. 6'o/(/— good percentage. Assay No. 800. .100 gms. dinoxide copper ore of Cumpas. Copper — 80 per cent. Silver — none. Robert L. D'Aumaile, Ensayador OJicial del Estado de Sonora, Arizpe, 29 de Mayo de 1860. La Cieneguita. — Having concluded the explorations which I was commissioned to make in relation to the mines and Real of the Cieneguita, I hereby embody, as succinctly as possible, a general resume of the results of ray labors. The Real of the Cieneguita embraces in itself and its de- pendencies the mines known as La Chipiona, La Colorada, La Cagona, La Prieta, and the vein of copper in Matara- chi, La Descomulgada and Los Tajos,La Viruela and El Reahto, San Rafael, Ostimuris, Yerba Buena, and El Po- trero. All these mines, with the exception of El Potrero, which is at some leagues distance, are found within a ra- dius of three miles from the central point, and the great Veta Madre, or principal vein, appears to be that of La Chipiona. The origin of the Real is shrouded in the mists of an- tiquity. Tradition even fails to indicate the period when, or the person by whom the mines were originally worked ; but the general belief, based upon ancient maps and land- marks, identifies it with the long-lost Real of Tayapa, fa- mous in the early Spanish annals. The district surround- ing it constituted the mining province of San Yldefonso de Ostimuris ; but of the actual state of the mines at that period the sole evidence remaining is tradition, and the information which may be gleaned from an inspection of the excavations made and the ruins left by the former possessors. The testimony of the oldest and most relia- ble inhabitants, resident near the spot from infancy, is unanimous to the fact that in the early part of the pres- 112 Arizona and JSonora. ent century the Real remained in the same condition, un- der the same circumstances of abandonment and decay, and that the uniform tradition of the country assigned to them, even then, a high and unknown antiquity. Subsequently they were repopulated by Rafael Yalen- zuela, who worked two of them with great success, and were again abandoned on the general uprising of the Opatas. The only modern veins opened were those of San Jose del Pinar,now exhausted, and Yerba Buena, whose mouths are closed by the falling in of the pit framing. The abundance of ores of the Chipiona, Colorada, etc., was generally known and recognized, as also their rich- ness ; but, owing to their belonging to the class termed in the technology of the country rebelde (^. e., refractory or hard ores, sulphurets, etc.), the native miners have been unable to extract the silver. Titles. — The mines, except those of El Potrero, La Pri- eta, and the copper vein in Matarachi, are on the rancho of La Yglesia, a fine grazing estate of eighteen square miles in extent, belonging to and in the occupancy of Don Jose Yreneo Monge. The title is said to be perfect and undisputed — a Spanish grant of Carlos III. It is Avooded and watered, and contains sufficient arable land. The rancho of Matarachi, which bounds it on the west- ward, is a beautiful pine forest, with some excellent culti- vable land, contains nine square miles, well watered, and is likewise a Spanish grant of the last century. It con- tains the vein of La Prieta and the outcrop of copper. The title to these deposits is a " denouncement," as dis- coverer, of four pertenencias — twenty-four Mexican feet in length, with an appropriate width, depending on the inclination of the vein. The mines of Los Tajos, La Des- comulgada, and El Realito, each four pertenencias as res- poUador {i. e., repopulator). El Potrero and La Yiru- Mines of La Cananea and Cieneguita^ Sonora. 113 ela, one each. La Chipiona and La Colorada, possession given by the Prefect of Sahuaripa on the 13th of Septem- ber — 1800 feet in length, with GOO on La Plomosa, and 1350 in width, including all the present workings in the three mines. The sites called El Potrero, La Amargosa, La Cieneguita, and Yerba Buena, denounced as " hacien- das de beneficio" — positions for reduction works. Location. — The Kedl of the Cieneguita is situated in a pretty little dell, embosomed among lofty wooded mount- ains, almost at the foot of the Sierra de San Ygnacio, and partly embraced by the unbroken ranges of the great Sierra Madre. Owing to the impossiblity of procuring the requisite instruments, I was unable to determine the latitude and longitude. It is distant, by the road, four- teen leagues southeast of Sahuaripa, three leagues south- east of Tarachi, and four leagues west of Mulatos, little more than half that amount. The Real contains perhaps twenty acres of cultivable ground, admirably adapted for gardens, and is supplied by springs and a never-faiHng brook of excellent water which traverses its centre. The climate is mild, delightful, and probably whole- some ; but in winter the snow is said to fall occasionally two feet in depth, and ice to form in the creek as many inches in thickness. The stalwart frames and robust health of the octogenarian j^roprietor of La Yglesia and his lady might be envied by many a tobacco-chewing American of thirty-five. The road which leads to the Ci- eneguita and Mulatos from Sahuaripa is mountainous in the extreme — from Aribechi to the "Real, a distance often leagues, it is nearly all mountain, except the plain of Los Cazadores in the rancho of Agua Blanca and the valley of the Rio de Ostimuris, upon which the road runs from San Francisco to Tarachi. A considerable portion of the Real is covered by foundations of houses and ruins of smelting-works, or immense piles of scoria and rubbish. 114 Arizona and Bonor a. proving incontestably to the practiced eye the vast extent of the mining operations formerly carried on in theReal."^ The Mines. — Leaving the Real, the road runs up the brook northwest, and about three hundred yards distant from the hacienda is a working of trifling depth in the bank of the stream, now filled with earth, called Za Cargona. All that is known of -it is that the metal is said to be plombiferous, the vein (metallic portion) one foot in width, and the ore to pay sixteen ounces to the hundred weight. Mr. Ortiz has never examined it, on account of the influx of water from the rivulet adjoining. Two miles distant, in the same direction, lies the hill which contains the veins of La Chipiona, La Colorada, La Plomosa, and another, fallen in, wdiose very name has per- ished. The veins have been opened in many parts by the Spaniards, Avho, according to their almost invariable cus- tom, contented themselves with sinking shafts for the ex- traction of the superior decomposed ores, abandoning the mine on reaching the sulphurets, from ignorance of the process for the extraction of the silver. In these sulphu- rets, and below the old galleries, are situated the ]3resent Avorkings. La Colorada., on the north side of the spur, is a por- tion of the Veta Madre (or main vein), and the workings are firm and perfectly dry. The part explored by Mr. Ortiz is about fifty feet in length and forty-five feet in depth. This is exclusive of another twenty-feet shaft eighty feet farther down the mountain, Avhere the ores are uncovered to the same width, and are said to be iden- tical in quality, but which, from oversight, I neglected to * The vast extent of the ancient works in thje mines of Northern Mexico and Arizona, taken with the fact of the undoubted richness and abundance of ores at present, give a guarantee of permanency for these mines which those of California and Nevada Territory can not yet claim. This is a material point, well worthy the careful attention of capitalists seeking mining investments. — S. M. Mines of La Cananea and Cieneguita, Sonora. 115 examine. The vein in the lower planes (levels) is about eighteen inches wide, in parts thirty, running north-north- west and south-southeast, with an inclination to the south- east of about 15° — an excellent course and dip in Mexican mines. The ore from this, as well as all other accessible mines, was blasted from the seams in my presence and under my direction, and the assays are made of the gen- eral average of the ores in the vein, without much care be- ing taken in removing the adhering vein-stone. The as- say of this portion is marked in the table of assays 690. JLa Chipiona is also upon the Veta Madre, the vein hav- ing the same direction and dip as in La Colorada. The shafts are two in number, some thirty feet asunder, and about the same number of feet in depth. They are now partly full of water from the heavy rains and suspension of labor, the miners being engaged at present in their planting-grounds. The vein has a width, in the lowest accessible part, of twenty to thirtj^-six inches, exclusive of the vein walls, and is said to carry the same depth and quality of metal down. The ores are of a class somewhat different from and more difficult of reduction than those of the Colorada, being " bronces apetancados" (bisulphurets of iron, with a compound sulphuret of silver, iron, lead, and copper), and are said to give in the German process 160 ounces per ton of 2000 lbs., and contain alloy of gold. The ores of La Colorada give, by the same process, 212 to 320 ounces per ton, according to Mr. Ortiz. Assays marked 691-2-3. Not half the superficial excavations of the ancient min- ers upon this vein have been cleaned out, and the falling in of their lahores can be traced all the way across the crest of the hill — say 250 yards — up to the mouth of La Colorada. Above the main vein is a cross vein, of four to six inches, cutting it nearly at right angles. Its ore is said to yield 318 ounces of silver per ton. The assay will 116 Arizona and Sonora. be found marked No. 693 ; but it is believed that this ore was somehow confounded in the transportation with that of the lower shaft of the main vein (No. 692). Nine hundred feet distant, in a straight line, in a spur of the same Cerro, is the adit of Xa Plomosa. The upper workings, being badly planned, have recently fallen in from the pressure of the rubbish in old drifts, and the miners have driven a level in the solid rock one hundred and fifty feet farther down, which has advanced fifty feet, but has not yet struck the ore. They are argentiferous galenas, with a matrix of stratitic " calishe," said to yield eighteen per cent, of lead, and ninety-six ounces of silver per ton. I assayed one of the isolated masses taken at random from the excavations of the drift, which gave a higher percent- age. The assay is marked 694. Both this vein and La Chipiona run across the valley and strike the opposite mountain. The yawning mouths of the old mining shafts are visible all the way across in many difierent points. All these points are dry, except from the infiltration of surface water from the workings and rain flowing into the uncovered shafts, and even if worked to a great depth arc capable of being drained with comparative ease by means of a tunnel, as the Chipiona debouches upon an ab- rupt descent of many hundred feet. The- walls are firm, the vein regular, and presenting every indication of per- manence. There is more ore stripped and in view in La Colorada and La Chipiona than that lying in the patios. A quarter of a mile southwest of the Yerba Buena are the mines of Los Tajos. The hill-side is covered with the buried workings of the ancients, and the superior portion of the vein is in a 'very precarious condition. Mr. Ortiz has driven a tunnel in below, to avoid the cost and trouble of removing the rubbish. Having mislaid my notes on the vein, I am unable to speak with precis- Mines of La Gananea and Cieneguita^ So^iorcn 117 ion, but it is something like half a yard in width, with a very heterogeneous medley of ores. It runs completely through the mountain, as very con- siderable works are visible on the opposite side, but whether "en metales" or not is not known. The ores are contracted to be delivered, clean, in the patios at $4 per 300 lbs., and are said to yield sixty ounces of silver per ton ; but they are loaded with titaniferous and zinc- iferous minerals. Assay of such ores as v/ere accessible marked 695. La Descomulgada is situated about a league west- northwest of the Yerba Buena. Its matrix is a very hard silicious rock, which crumbles with great rapidity under the combined influence of air and moisture. The recent rains had filtered through the old workings into the drift made by Mr. Ortiz, and brought down a portion of the ceiling, so that access was impossible, and I can give no description of it. The vein is said to be wide, and the superficial ores so easily worked that contracts were made to deliver it, dressed, in the mine mouth, at $1 per 300 lbs. It is said to give 130 ounces to the ton, and to be of easy reduction. La Yerba Buena is a modern mine — said to have been very rich — whose mouths have fallen in, a few hundred yards from the Yerba Buena, on the road to the Desco- mulgada. Nothing more is known concerning it. Los Ostimuris^ on the road to Yerba Buena, about half way from the Cieneguita, has two open mouths, and is full of water, the drifts running under the brook. Mr. Monge says it was abandoned, with abundant ores, on the outbreak of the Opatas, and, as the shafts were shal- low, the vein wide, and the ores yielding four hundred and fifty ounces per ton, he entered into a contract with a skillful miner, and put up wims and machinery for drainage. His partner died just as they were approach- 118* Arizona and Sonora. ing completion, the Apaches drove ofi* the animals, and, being entirely ignorant of mining, he abandoned the en- terprise. La Prieta^ on the rancho of Matarachi, about two leagues east of the Cieneguita, has a width of from four to six feet — the opening is merely a trial-pit, which the rains had filled with earth and stones, so that it is impos- sible to give any oj^inion concerning it. The ores of the outcrop are a melange of different sulphurets, heavily charged with coj^per. It is probable that a much short- er, better, and less circuitous route than that which leads past the Real of the Cieneguita can be cut through the woods direct to Buena Yista. Assay of ore (which can not be regarded as a fair sample) marked ISTo. 696. They are said to yield sixty ounces to the ton. The copper vein, also a trial hole, is situated on the crest of the hill directly above. El Potrero^ eight leagues distant, I did not visit. It is said to be an immense " clavo," of volcanic origin, and unknown extent, at the intersection of two veins. The ore is without alloy of silver ; but, containing much oxide of lead and spar, it forms an excellent flux for the ores of La Prieta and Los Tajos. The cost of carriage is the only expense. La 'Viruela, east half a mile from the site of La Amar- gosa, is a lofty hill, from which large quantities of gold have been extracted; but the whole hill (summit) has fallen in, and all attempts to establish workings to reach the ores beneath, without removing the superincumbent debris, have resulted in failure. La Amargosa, and the rivulet which runs beneath El Realito, are constantly washed for gold. The gambus- sinos told me that they realized about six reals per diem. Hacienda de Beneficio. — The existing hacienda con- sists of two small patios and lavadero of masonry (part Mines of La- Cananea and Cieneguita^ Sonora. 119 of the ancient works), three tahonas or arrastras, two vasos de funcliciou, one melting furnace and one reverber- atory, with the requisite sheds, three barrels mounted on the German plan, a worthless battery of three stamjDS (ii la Mejicana), and the proprietor's residence. These are situated in a group in the centre of the valley. There are other buildings and inclosures not connected with the hacienda. The water of the creek is not sufficiently abundant for machinery, and an examination was made of La Amar- gosa, one fourth of a mile east, which, by a moderate ex- penditure in ditch and tunnel, might be diverted from its course and brought through the Real. This stream is permanent, and furnishes a considerable volume of water, with a natural fall of 100 feet, within a space of 100 yards, in its own valley. As my measuring instruments were lost in crossing the Kio Grande, these estimates must be considered in the light of guesses, though I am convinced that they are close approximations to the truth. The connection of these two streams has been advocated by a German engineer, but, in my opinion, on very unten- able grounds ; as, in addition to the expense, all the ad- vantages which this sudden fall presents for the erection of a reaction water-wheel would, from the conformation of the ground, be almost entirely lost. In La Amargosa are the ruins of a dam, race, and res- ervoir of masonry, two tahonas de agua, houses, etc., a standing memorial of miscalculation and bad engineer- ing. Around the base of the hill which contains the Chipiona, and not over 400 yards distant, flows a stream capable of giving motion to two large wheels, but which is said to aftbrd water in times of drought only four months in the year. I consequently paid no more atten- tion to it. The next point examined was Yerha Buena, from two 120 Arizo7ia and Sonora. to three and a half miles southeast from the Real, four to four and a half from La Chipiona, and about one fourth from Los Tajos. The river is the Arroyo de los Ostimu- ros — water permanent ten months, and sufficient to turn the wheels during the remainder of the year. An excel- lent natural foundation for a dam, of solid rock, exists here at a waterfall, the distance between the abutments being only twenty-four feet, and no leakage of any kind being possible. The natural abutments are about twen- ty-five feet high. Water sufficient for saw-mill, flouring-mill, and hacien- da de beneficio of considerable extent. By my measure- ment, rudely taken, a race and flume of 1250 feet would, with a six-foot dam, give a fall of full sixty feet — ample for all practical purposes. A natural tail-race, which needs but little deepening, is found at this point. Situation good and pleasant, with plenty of garden land, building stone, arrastra stone, oaks, pines, some ash and juniper. Here are the remains of a long line of sheds, which were once the smelting works of Los Tajos, those of La Descomulgada and Yerba Buena being far- ther down the creek. This location, though somewhat distant from the principal mines, is favorable in every other respect. The road to the Cieneguita is rocky and bad, but a good one of regular descent, in soft earth, is said to exist on the outer side of the ravine. Fuel^ Water ^ Pasturage^ etc. — The subject of water has been fully discussed under the head of Hacienda de Bene- ficio. Wood is abundant to excess. The mountains and valleys are covered with a plentiful, often heavy growth of oaks (live oak, holm oak, and other species), white and pitch pine, etc., while juniper and ash are found in the water-courses in quantities sufficient for purposes of con- struction. Pasturage of excellent quality is found every where, Mmes of La Cancmea and Gienegidta^ Sonora. 121 as the forests are free from underwood (from the fre- quent bush fires), and animals are said to fatten all the year round. I may add that Mr. Ortiz undertakes to procure from the proprietor of La Yglesia a free and gratuitous conces- sion in perpetuity of the right to take, use, and enjoy all the wood, pasturage, and water power which may be needed for mining and reduction of metals, and all other purposes incidentally connected therewith. Lime^ StoJie^ Clay^ and Building Materials. — Lime- stone is found in various parts ; it has been sought for, and is not known to be abundant. Stone of a very re- fractory character, for furnaces, falls in the same category, as it is not known to exist nearer than Sahuaripa. Clays abound, those of a talcose nature especially, but none known to be fireproof. Fire-clay is said to be met with near Mulatos, and Don Jose Maria Lopez, w^ho is certain- ly competent to judge, assures mo that there is a large bed of superior quality building stones, and timber is in- exhaustible. Labor ^ Wages, Provisions, Carriage, etc. — All the la- borers employed in the mines unite the profession of ranchero or farmer Avith that of miner ; but I am assured by competent authority that any amount of skilled labor, if required, can be drawn, without the slightest difficulty, from Mulatos, Jesus Maria, La Trinidad, Tarachi, and Valle. The wages are, for tentateros,* barreteros, arrieros, peons, etc. (miners and general mining laborers), four reals per diem; azogueros, afinadores (not required in the German process), $1. * Tentateros, those who pack out the ore, in sacks made of hide, on their backs. Barreteros, those who use tlie bar in the mines. Azogue- ros, the amalgamators in the patio process. Afinadores, refiners by the cupel or "vaso." — Four reals is fifty cents. — Faner/a, 175 lbs. — Ley, the amount of precious metal in ores. T? 122 Arizona and iSonora. Wood, at present (but can be supplied much cheaper), one real the carga of eighty billets ; charcoal, two reals the hundred weight. Salt, |8 to $10 the carga of 300 lbs. ; maize and wheat (selling price), $6 the fanega. Wheat and Indian corn can be purchased in the Tierra Fria at four reals the fanega (of Yizcaia)^ and contracts can be made for its dehvery at the Real (in quantity) at an advance of about 500 per cent, on cost price, say $3 50 to $3 75 per fanega (of Sonora). Freight from Guaymas, $80 to $90 per ton ; from Sa- huaripa, $3 per carga (300 lbs.) ; cattle, $10 to $15; hides, $1 each ; mules and horses, dear ; powder of the country, $7 per arroba (of 25 lbs.) ; tallow, $7 per arroba. Resume. — In recapitulation of what I have said before, my opinion is that the mines, alluding particularly to the Yeta Madra of La Chipiona, are of excellent quality, the ores of good ley and abundant, and of facile extraction. I have found, in conversation with old and experienced mine-masters in diiferent parts of the country, that the richness of the silver of the "bronces," "prietos 6 que- mazones," and "metales espejuelosas" — pyrites, blendes, and mixed sulphurets of Cieneguita — has been generally knoYv'n to those conversant with mining affairs, but that their known "rebeldia," the impossibility of extracting the precious metals by the antiquated and inefficient pro- cesses of the country, has rendered their reduction a hope- less task. This difficulty is completely obviated by the use of the German process of chlorinization with sal ma- rina and subsequent amalgamation — a process for which they are peculiarly adapted. It is to be observed that two items of expense in most of the mining districts of the republic — jugos and magistral (" fluxes") — are not incurred here, the ores yielding a surplus of these es- sentials for sale in less favored quarters. The mines are in the solid rock, with firm walls, without slips or out- 3Iines of La Cananea and Cieneguita^ Soiiora. 123 throws, and all expense of timbering galleries and shafts will be spared the mine-OAvners ; but the ores are hard, and require blasts for their extraction. I would recommend sinking two shafts of one hundred varas in the workings of La Colorada and La Chipiona (should the ores, which is probable, extend so far), to thoroughly test the vein, running a drift from the pit bot- toms to connect, and then working the vein from below upward, before the expense of creating a very large hac- ienda be incurred. Labor, except of skilled artisans, is abundant and cheap in the immediate vicinity. Wood and water power for every needful purpose abound, but the distance of the most eligible site of the latter can not be less than four miles from the Chipiona. Pasture and tillage-ground is afforded to any required extent by the ranches of La Yglesia and Matarachi. In fine, if the ores continue, as they give every promise of doing, the amount of silver extracted will depend entire- ly upon the extent of the operations, and the energy, skill, and economy of the management.* * Since the visit of Mr. D'Aumaile we have received samples of ores of the "Descomulgada," which the proprietors have lately been working : the vein is wide, the ores easily extracted, and the ley flat- tering. The " Ostimuros" mine is at present full of water, but can be cleared at a small expense ; the reports of its richness are very flatter- ing. From what I have learned from Mr. D'Aumaile, the pro'prietors, and others, the sites for forming "haciendas de beneficio" are numer- ous, and the water power which can be brought into action will move more machinery, applied judiciously, than will be needed for working the mines. Timber for the erection of the works is abundant, as also copper ore, which metal can be used with greater economy than im- ported iron for castings that may be required. At a comparatively small expense, excellent roads can be formed from each of the mines to the hacienda, as well as to the adjoining towns. As stated at the commencement of this, these mines can only be worked with success upon a large scale, for many reasons — at least $200,000 is req^uired. 124 Arizona and Sonora. Assays of Ores of the Cieneguita, September and Octoher^ 1859. No. 690. La Colorada, 172 oz. silver per ton of 2000 lbs. Gold^ trace. 691. La Chipiona (upper shaft), 224 oz. silver per ton. 692. -" ' " (lower shaft), 318 " " " 693. " " (cross vein), 190 " " " 694. La Plomosa (from new adit), 108 " " " 696. LaPrieta 30 " *' " 721. " " (bell-metal ore), 21.54 per cent, copper. 697. La Chipiona (bronces), 160 oz. per ton. Assays of ores brought by Sr. Ortiz — Nos. 835-842 : Assay No. 835. Ore rejected in the "terreros" as worthless, Bronces ochavados. Silver — 3 per cent. =12 marcos=96 oz. per Spanish ton of 2000 lbs. Gold — much stronger standard than in 836. Assay No. 836. Average of ore now taken from La Colorada. Silver — 5 per cent. =20 marcos (160 oz.) per ton. Gold— as in 841. Assay No. 837. Ore of superior quality (Petanques hechos), La Colo- rada. Silver — 65 per cent. =26 mar. (208 oz.) per ton. Gold — heavy ley not determined. Assay No. 838. Decomposed superficial ore, La Descomulgada. Lead — 20.4 per cent. =408 lbs. per ton. Silver — .3686 per cent. =14 m. 6 oz. 1|- adarmes (118 1-11 oz.) per ton. Gold — .335 oz., or ^ oz. in each marco of silver. Assay No. 839. Ore of El Potrero — qualitative analysis. Silver — very small ley ; gold not sought ; lead, antimony, cop- per. Assay No. 841. Assay for gold of plata de fuego. La Colorada. Gold— 1.5025 oz. per quintal=3 mar. 7 oz. 3 och. (31| oz.) per ton. Assay No. 842. Assay for gold of plata de fuego. La Descomulgada. Gold— 2 oz. 15 gr. per quintal=5 mar. 5 och. (40|^ oz.) per ton. Robert L. D'Aumaile, Assayer. The Sierra Madre of Neio Mexico. 125 CHAPTER VII, THE SIERRA MADRE OF NEW MEXICO.* Mineral "Wealth of Northern Mexico. — The Sierra Madre. — Mining under the Spanish Dominion. — Ancient and Modern Mines. — Pres- ent Modes of Mining. — The Miners. — Gambussinos. — Their Mode of Working. — Causes of the Decay in Mining. — Habits of the Min- ers. — Borascas and Bonanzas. — Expulsion of the Spaniards. — With- drawal of Military Forces. — Ravages of the Indians. — Lack of Ma- chinery. — Various Causes for the Abandonment of Mines. — Necessi- ty for Foreign Capital and Energy. — Inducements for its Invest- ment. — Political Relations of Sonora and Chihuahua. — The Apaches. — Special Advantages of Chihuahua, Sonora, and Sinaloa. — Value and Distribution of the Ores. — Means of acquiring the Right to Mines. — Hints to Capitalists. The object of this present chapter is to give a short description of the mineral resources of N'orthern Mexico, its past and present state of mining, the cause of its de- cay, and its future prospects. If it prove of service to those Californians who take an interest in the mines of that part of the world, the wa-iter, for many years en- gaged in mining pursuits there, will be amply repaid for his trouble. Mexico is well known as a rich mineral country, hav- ing contributed a large share to the circulating medium of the world's commerce, and, so far from its mineral wealth being exhausted, it may be considered as almost virgin yet. The matrix of all this wealth is to be found in the Mexican Cordilleras and their branches, which run more or less parallel with the Pacific coast. * For this and the following chapter I am indebted to A. W. C. Brawns, Esq., an English gentleman resident in Sonora, a most intel- ligent and reliable authority, to whom I return my thanks for these notes.— S. M. 126 Arizona and Sonora. That part of the Cordilleras which is of more imme- diate interest, and which forms, as it were, the natural boundary between the states of Chihuahua and Durango on the west, and of Sonora and Siualoa on the east, is call- ed the Sierra Madre^ or " Mother Mountains," branches of which diverge into the four mentioned states in all di- rections, being, however, of more alpine a character only in those states which border on the Pacific Ocean. These Mother Mountains and their principal branches are, in- deed, most prolific in all the precious minerals ; so much so, that it may be safely asserted there is hardly a village district or grazing estate in these mountain regions but can show some vein of gold, silver, lead, or copper, while many of the rivers and creeks of the glens and valleys contain placer gold in more or less abundance. But it must not be inferred from this that all these veins are be- ing worked, or that the country has been fully explored, for nothing would be farther from the truth ; probably not one fourth of the existing metallic wealth is known, while but a moiety of it has been or is being developed. During the Spanish reign mining was far more extens- ively prosecuted than since the independence of Mexico, which is testified by numberless old abandoned mines, here called antiguas^ or ancient, and by the diminished annual production of gold, silver, and copper. Under the Spanish government, which did its utmost to foster this important branch of industry, the miners had many priv- ileges and great advantages ; they had peace and securi- ty ; mineral aviadores, or providers of goods and j^rovis- ions, which they obtained on credit ; government com- missaries, who furnished them with quicksilver at low rates ; abundance of good labor at merely nominal wages ; and any amount of cheap cattle, horses, and mules. This enabled them to successfully work with a small capital many mines, which under the present circumstances would The Sier^^a Madre of Neio Mexico. 127 prove but losing investments to small capitalists. Al- though the Spaniards prosecuted their mining operations more extensively, and with greater industry, perseverance, and success, it is not evident that they possessed a great- er amount of mineralogical knowledge than the Mexicans of the present day. Indeed, numerous ancient surface ex- cavations of veins, without any shafts and drifts, still show that many of the former dedicated themselves only to that easy mode of surface working which most readily furnished them payable ores, and abandoned the veins for new ones as soon as the raising of the ores became more difficult, or the latter diminished in their intrinsic value. Nevertheless, many of the best preserved mines, which date from that time, will favorably compare with those of modern development. At the present time, when mining has reached its low- est ebb in Northern Mexico, there are but few mines Avhich create special comment ; hence the erroneous opinion of many travelers, who pay flying visits to that part of the world, that the mines of Alamos, Cedros, San Xavier, San Antonio de la Huerta, and Babicanora, in the State of Sonora; those of Rosario, in Sinaloa, and those of Guada- lupe Calvo, Cerro Cahui, Batopilas, Yasaparas, and Pal- marejo, in the State of Chihuahua, are the only ones of merit. Without detracting from the value of these really good mines, it may be safely asserted that there are many hundreds of veins worked in a quiet, unostentatious, and often shiftless manner, which lose nothing by comparison, Avhile a good many far excel them in the intrinsic value of their ores. But, generally, the mines of this part of Mexico are worked in a manner which, though it may satisfy their unambitious owners, can never fairly develop their inherent wealth, and which often causes their total abandonment. There is but little capital invested in most of these enterprises, little or no expeditious and labor-sav- 128 Arizona and Sonora. ing machinery used, and but a small number of operatives employed; consequently, no equable and grand results can be expected. As a general rule, metallic veins do not contain in all their parts the same intrinsic value of ore : in different stretches there will be poor, fair, good, and exceedingly rich ores ; it follows, then, that in working a -vein only in a few isolated spots — as is necessarily the case where the want of capital prevents the occupation of many operatives, and the subsequent opening of many shafts and drifts — the miner takes his chance of luck ; he is generally content if he manages to pay his way along while the ores are poor ; to lay by a little for the day when a " horse" or cut makes its appearance in the vein, confident that sooner or later he may strike a rich stretcli of ore, and rise in a few weeks or months to be a man of more or less fortune. These stretches of very rich ore are at uncertain distances, and of more or less extent, sometimes lasting for weeks, months, and even years. When a mine is worked on a large scale, the enterprise is less exposed to extremes ; for from the many different l^arts of the vein there is constantly ore of all classes raised, and the poor, good, and rich ores furnish in the aggregate a certain average, and insure an equable and constantly profitable return. Most of the Mexican mines, if worked on a large scale, would yield revenues that would make a bank director's mouth water. In speaking of mines, a word of miners is not amiss : There is a numerous body of poor Mexican miners, the " gambussinos," who, though originally a very deserving class of people, have done much harm to the mining inter- est, and, although their ill-directed industry has contrib- uted momentarily to augment the productiveness of min- ing, and, indeed, has solely sustained many mining towns, they have nevertheless proved themselves a bane to the country. (Those petty miners who dedicate themselves The fSierra Madre of New Mexico. 129 to the working of " placers" are not included in this de- nunciation of gambussinos, albeit they bear the same ap- pellation.) In former times, before the devastating incursions of the Apache Indians, the gambussinos occupied themselves in prospecting and discovering mineral veins, which they generally sold to persons of capital ; they also personally raised and reduced ore in sufficient quantity for their in- dependent subsistence; and as they Avere a numerous body, the small portions of gold and silver annually pro- duced by each individual formed quite a large aggregate. But when the hostilities of the Apaches rendered it un- safe for single individuals to traverse the country in all directions, many of them betook themselves in bodies to work in such mines as had been abandoned by their for- mer owners. This would have been of great benefit if they had formed an association under the direction of one or more of their number, instead of which they only congregated together for the sake of mutual protection, Avhile each individual did as he j^leased. Working with- out order and foresight, and without those salutary checks on their operations which were interposed by the mining inspectors in former times, they break out ore only where most handy and rich ; and, to save time and labor, they throw the poor ores and rubbish into those shafts and drifts that are of no immediate interest to them, and thus render them soon impassable. When the ores turn poor in the unobstructed shafts, they, perhaps, regret to have cut off the access to those in other i^arts of the vein ; but as it is too troublesome and costly to reopen them, they commence to diminish the size of the ore-pillars, and frequently extract some of them altogeth- er. The vein walls, losing their required support, begin to crack, and Nature generally settles the business with a great crash. Never mind, there are other abandoned F2 130 Arizona and Sonora. mines at hand, to Avhich they betake themselves, to play the same game over again, with generally the same re- sults ; so that, when a mine has once been fairly squatted upon by these would-be miners, it is sure to be more or less spoiled, and requires often a large expenditure of la- bor and capital to reopen. A good deal of the decay of the mining interest is to be attributed to the miners personally. Many persons engaged in mining enterprises without the requisite knowledge and capital to insure success, very often in- volved themselves in debts, which as often they were unable to pay ; their failure created distrust, and caused all that credit, which formerly was given by the mer- chants most liberally, gradually to disappear, much to the detriment of the mining industry of the country. Until experience had taught them better, the majority of Mexican miners, servants as well as masters, were of the most spendthrift, gambling disposition. Almost all the Spaniards who worked mines in Mexico were so suc- cessful, and realized fortunes so easily and rapidly, that most of their Mexican successors thought their fortunes assured by merely being the owners of mines, altogether forgetting that it was also indispensable to personally look after their business, and to practice prudence and economy. Their lavish, gambling mode of life, their neg- ligence and laziness, no mine in the world was rich enough to sustain ; consequently, when a horasca^ made its appearance, as it will in every mine once in a while, they not only found themselves without the means of in- dulging farther in vice and extravagance, but not unfre- quently without the requisite funds to enable them to pierce through the poor ores and dead rock in order to * Borasca is .1 temporary failure of the vein or of rich metal. It is the antithesis of bonanza, which signifies a rich and extensive deposit of metal in the vein. The Sierra Madre ofNexo Mexico. 131 strike the rich ores again. Credit, under such circum- stances, they could not obtain, for who would trust a gambling spendthrift ? consequently, they were obliged to sell or abandon mines that had produced hundreds of thousands, and even millions. Their successors no soon- er struck a bonanza than, either from inclination or se- duced by others, they commenced to enjoy life in pretty much the same manner, which, Avith but few exceptions, ended in like results. "Like master, like man:" the overseers and servants, finding the business left entirely in their own hands, soon began to think that a few pounds of ore — every day more or less — would make no difference and never be missed ; and, being excellent judges of ore, they always selected the very richest for themselves — ore so rich that a few pounds of it often enabled them to imitate their master's carousing- and gambling on a small scale. Is it to be wondered at that, under such circumstances, the pursuit of mining should have decayed gradually ?. However, gambussinos and miners are not alone to blame ; for many are the causes of the decay of mining in Northern Mexico, and they all emanate more or less directly from the overthrow of the Spanish domination. The first suicidal act of the Mexican government was the expulsion of the Spanish from the country, which gave a fatal blow to the mining interest by abstracting from it almost all the capital and well-directed industry which, until then, had sustained it in splendor, and caused the suspension and abandonment of many mining operations. The establishment of the republican form of government did not prove a panacea for all the evils the Mexicans were suffering from, and led to continual revolutions ; the government, always more or less in need of the mili- tary forces to quell rebellions in the capital and the prin- cipal cities of the interior of the republic, which are the 132 Arizona and Sonora. hotbeds of revolutions, was compelled to greatly reduce, and finally, from the empty state of the treasury, alto- gether withdraAV the troops from the northern frontier states, where, until then, they had afforded protection against the daily increasing hostilities of the Apaches. In consequence, all the more immediately exposed mines, hamlets, and ranches in the states of Chihuahua and So- nora were gradually abandoned, as few of them employ- ed a sufficient number of people to afford a self sustaining protection. Prior to this, however, many mines had al- ready been abandoned in Sonora, in consequence of the uprising of the Opata and Yaqui Indians, who were liv- ing in the eastern and southern part of the state, which caused a sanguinary struggle of some duration. Many mines were also deserted in consequence of the rebelhous of thfe Papago and Seri Indians ; and although all these half-civilized tribes were re-subjugated, many mines re- mained in an abandoned state, or were squatted upon by gambussinos. A great many mines, although not situated so near to the habitats of the savages as to render a residence inse- cure to life, are in districts devoid of arable lands and deficient in water power : the reduction of their ores by the amalgamation process, the principal manipulations of which were effected by horse or mule power, required a constant supply of well-conditioned animals ; but when it became impossible to securely keep these in the natu- ral pastures of the country, and their maintenance in sta- bles proved too costly on account of the difficulties of transit and the consequent high price of provender, many of these mines were gradually abandoned by their own- ers, to whom the application of steam power was either unknown, or, for want of capital, impossible. Many mines, again, have been abandoned when the first stretch of jDOor ore, or a cut in the vein, appeared, The Sierra Maclre of New Mexico. 133 owing to the want of perseverance and means, or the ig- norance and apathy of their owners ; while others were left on account of the abundance of inherent water, for the extraction of which the here known appUcations of windlasses, wims, and drain -tunnels were either found insufficient or inapplicable. Others, again, were deserted on account of sufibcation, and a great number because the ores were too rebellious to yield to the simple modes of reduction known to their ignorant owners. Not un- frequently the owners, before abandoning their mines, would break out the ore pillars, thereby rendering the reopening of them by others more difficult and expen- sive. All these outward pressures have necessarily operated most injuriously on the mining interest of the country, Avhich, in spite of the immense natural mineral wealth of the country, has been decaying. To look for an improve- ment of this state of things to tlic Mexicans alone seems hopeless indeed. They possess their virtues, but a v^ant of enterprise, of mutual confidence and spirit of associa- tion, of industry and perseverance, which characterizes them, is not likely to lift them out of their present de- spondency, and to effect the regeneration of their superb country. A foreign element is now required to revive mining in that part of JMexico, and to restore it to its pristine splen- dor and productiveness. Several enterprises, undertaken of late by foreigners, invite imitation, and give cheering hopes that mining will once more become the mainstay of the country. Such mines as the Sierra Madre pre- sents must and will he xoorhed as soon as they become known abroad. It was but recently stated by Sir Rod- erick Murchison, the eminent geologist (communicating to the Royal Geographical Society the results of the trav- els of Charles Savin, Esq., who, accompanied by an assay- 134 Arizona and Sonora. ei- and practical Cornisli miner, had lately visited the Sier- ra Madre), " ^Art?, vnth foreign capital and perseverance^ almost all the mines and veins of that part of Mexico icoidd yield good results f^ and the dividends that several foreign companies have been lately paying iucontestably show that, with proper management, mining investments in that comitry are not only safe, but highly remunera- tive. Since the discovery of the Washoe silver mines, a great spirit of enterprise has been manifested by Califor- uians to make investments of this class; but as they can not all be accommodated near home, it is most proper to direct them to Northern Mexico, than which no country can hold out greater inducements. The field for mining enterprises here is immense ; for, not to mention the in- finitude of undeveloped veins, the mines, with but few exceptions, may be considered as virgin yet ; for works to the depth of 100 yards or so are but surface works, and ofier for centuries yet to come profitable employ- ment to people that may be counted by millions. But it must not be inferred that Northern Mexico is an imme- diate field for poor miners, although the day is probably not far distant when even such may find it to their ad- vantage to transplant themselves to that country. "To work a mine requires another mine," is an old Spanish saying, Avhich, like most proverbs, contains a truth ; and although there are many mines in Northern Mexico which, worked even on a moderate scale, may and do pay well enough, yet, to insure equable and con- stantly profitable returns, it can not be repeated too oft- en, necessitates the investment of large capitals. The in- ducements to mining enterprises in that country, it has been said already, are very great, and can not fail to at- tract foreign capital when they become more known, and when the objection generally raised, "the unsettled state of political afiairs," is properly understood. Th e Sierra Madre of New Mexico. 135 The frequent revolutions, changes of government, and civil wars, which have characterized the Mexican repubhc for the last forty years, have made themselves felt in the frontier states of Chihuahua and Sonora disastrously only in so far as they caused these states to be left without sufficient military protection against the hostile Apaches, otherwise they have not suffered from the "legerdemains" of the ambitious political and military chiefs who so fre- quently usurped the supreme power of the republic. In fact, these two statQ§ are virtually almost independent from Mexico, and their inhabitants trouble themselves very little about what is going on in the centre of the re- public. The State of Chihuahua has also been singularly ex- empt from state rebellions and intestine wars; and al- though there have been "pronunciamentos" which caused sudden changes in her government, still the people al- ways had the good sense to steer clear of such revolu- tions as would cause stagnation of trade and lead to bloodshed. In the sanguinary v/ar which has afflicted Mexico during the last five years, and which has struck at the root of all revolutions to render them difficult for the future, Chihuahua has escaped almost entirely. Of late years the Chihuahuenses have done much toward the progress of their very fine state; and if there be any body of Mexicans who show themselves superior to fate, and may, without much foreign help, rebuild their fallen fortunes, they are surely in the State of Chihuahua, al- though the general poverty of the people may render it a very slow process. It has already been said that this state, with the rest of Northern Mexico, has suffered greatly from the devastations of the Apaches ; and al- though the agricultural and bucolic interests sufiered most, and the great number of magnificent grazing es- tates have been more or less ruined, the people have of 136 Arizona and Bonora. late years persecuted the savages so perseveringly and successfully that the latter have withdrawn, and confined their marauding expeditions to Sonora, Arizona, and New Mexico. It is now very rarely indeed that Apache dep- redations are heard of in Chihuahua, and consequently many deserted hamlets and estates have been and are being reoccupied. The State of Sonora has suffered more, having had sev- eral intestine wars, occasional rebellious of the half-civil- ized Indian tribes that inhabit it, and being still overrun by the Apaches. The greater part of the Sierra Madre portion of Sonora has, however, by means of its natural inaccessible character, been exempt from the hostilities of the Apaches, and has also escaped from the direct re- sults of civil wars. As the Indians have always been worsted in Sonora, and the people, Creoles as Avell as abo- riginals, are heartily sick and tired of revolutions, it is to be hoped, and indeed most probable, that in future the energies of the people will be directed into more produc- tive channels, and that the present reign of peace will be durable, and conducive to the j^rosperity of this naturally rich state. The inducements to mining enterprises, which are ap- plicable to all parts of Chihuahua, Sonora, and Sinaloa, are, good mines, liberal mining laws, cheap labor, and a fine, salubrious climate ; to which may be added the fa- vorable disposition of the governors of these states, who are anxious to attract foreign capitalists to their country, and will concede to such as many privileges as can rea- sonably be looked for. The good sense of the different state governments, political parties, and even half- civil- ized Indian tribes, in drawing a distinction between na- tives and foreigners, and not troubling the latter while they keep aloof from the political quarrels of the former, is most praiseworthy, and affords a greater security than The Sierra Madre of Ne\o Mexico. 137 the best written laws alone could guarantee to foreign residents. In all other resj)ects the inducements difter with the nature of the res23ective veins and their local- ities. While those, mines and veins which are situated in the lower branches of the Mother Mountains, and iso- lated mountain ranges of Sonora, are in general nearer to shipping ports, easier of access, and frequently admit of wagon transportation, and while most of them are nearer to the agricultural districts, and can obtain the necessaries of life more readily and much cheaper, they are generally entirely deficient in water power and suitable timber for building purposes and machinery, and, with the excep- tion of those of Alamos, more or less exposed to the dep- redations and hostilities of the Apaches. Those mines of Sonora and Chihuahua which are situated in the Sier- ra Madre have the inestimable advantages of abundance of water and frequent possible application of water pow- er, any amount of pine and oak timber, pasture in abund- ance the year round, and natural defenses that in them- selves have proved a barrier against revolutionary bands, and in most parts, also, against the incursions of the Apaches; but they admit no transportation except on mule-back, and are more distant fron the salt mines and agricultural districts than those of the lowlands. Some parts of the Mother Mountains of Chihuahua, however, are close to an extensive agricultural district, where jDrod- uce may be obtained for next to nothing. As regards the agricultural and pastoral resources of the here men- tioned states, they are quite sufiScient for the demand that can ever be made upon them, for they admit of great extension, if such should become necessary in the course of time. The value of the auriferous ores of that section of Mex- ico varies as much as in the quartz mines of California, Avhile the capricious dissemination of gold through its 138 Arizona and Sonora. gangue renders the working of quartz in the former country as precarious as in the latter. But veins of sil- ver ore are not capricious, and may be worked for centu- ries with a sure prospect of a constant yield. In regard to the richness and value of the argentiferous ores, they differ, of course, in different veins. It has been asserted, however, by most intelligent and practical foreign miners, personally well acquainted Avith Washoe and Northern Mexico, " tliat^ as a general ride^ the mines and veins of the latter greatly surpass those of the former^ and^ taking every thing else into consideration^ the inducements are Qniich in favor of the Sierra Madre of Mexico^'' There is an indefinite quantity of mines, the ores of which pay from $50 to $300 per ton ; and this asserted estimate is not based on those worthless tests, " assays of isolated pieces of rock," but founded on the known proceeds which tlie reduced ores of the mines have yielded for years. In rich stretches of the vein, and when the latter is in " bonanza," the ores of many mines have frequently yielded thousands of dollars per ton. There still remains to consider the acquisition of mines and veins, on which a v/ord of advice may not be amiss. In a country like ISTorthern Mexico, groaning under the weight of its metallic wealth, and abounding in mines more or less developed, there would appear to be no dif- ficulty about their acquisition. But to secure a valuable mine, and at the same time to make a good investment, requires more than the mere possession of a long purse : it requires experience in mining matters, and necessitates an intimate acquaintance with the country and the char- acter of the people. As it is desirable that in the investments of foreign capital there should be no error committed at the outset, than which nothing would retard the progress of this new mining field more, all persons new to the country The Sierra Madre of Ncm 3Je.vlco. 139 liad better leave all abandoned mines alone, unless direct- ed to them by persons long resident in the country, whose character and veracity are undoubted, and who, after the investigation of all the facts, current accounts, and traditions, have full confidence in some abandoned mine or other. There are, undoubtedly, many abandoned mines that are Avell worthy of attention and outlay of capital; but strangers are not likely to know at once which of the many deserted mines it will be prudent to meddle with. Under the present state of things, the safest investments for new-comers will be those mines that have bona fide owners ; for, as long as a mine can be advantageously Avorked, according to tJie custom of the country^ it is hardly ever abandoned altogether. But it must not be imagined that such mines can be ob- tained for a mere trifle ; for their owners are fully alive to the value of their possessions, and as they are already in a more or less independent position, and always in ex- pectation of a sudden fortune, they are not anxious to sell, unless induced by a fair offer. There any many na- tive miners of small means willing to cede part of their mines on condition that a certain amount of capital be invested to promote extensive and more profitable oper- ations ; but, unless the owners of mines be foreigners, it is not advisable to enter into such arrangements. Far better to give a long price for the absolute ownership of a mine at once. If foreign capitalists desire to make investments in Mexican mines, it is necessary that they are liberally in- clined ; if so, there are undoubtedly proper persons to be found who will help them to good abandoned mines, and many owners w^ill be found willing to sell their mines. Moneyed Californians may soon find out that there are mines in ISTorthern Mexico which will well re- pay the reposed trust, and content any reasonable man. 140 Arizona and Sonora. CHAPTER Vm. THE MINES OF JESUS MARIA AND SAN JOSE.* Condition of Mining in Mexico. — Wealth of the old Spanish Miners. — The Faults of their Successors. — A European Superintendent of the Jesus Maria Mines. — M. Augustus Remuley. — Abandonment of the Mines. — Recent Movements. — Present Prospects. — The Mines near Jesus Maria and Jose. — Nuestra Seiiora del Rayo. — Santa Mar- garita. — San Jose del Rosario. — Candelaria. — San Rafael. — Haci- enda Quiutana. — General Notes. As you are personally acquainted with the mining dis- trict of " Jesus Maria," you will be able to give much valuable information on that head ; and, besides, I think that the mining region of the " Sierra Madre" is suffi- ciently famed to be known in the United States and in Euroi^e. Yet, what must strike persons not personally acquainted with Mexico most, and requires exj^lanation, is the fact that there are so many good mines in an aban- doned state, and that many of those that are known to be of inherent richness and steadily worked, do so sel- dom enrich their owners. You and I, and many hundred others of foreign residents in this country, know the rea- son of this; but persons abroad can hardly imagine that in a country like this, famed for its mineral wealth, there should be so little theoretical and practical knowledge of mining — of labor-saving machinery — of practical aj^pli- cation of scientific inventions — that, in short, every thing should be managed in pretty much the same style as a century ago. "Want of enterprise, or of capital in enter- prising men ; want of mutual confidence and considera- * Notes on the Mineral of Jesus Maria y Jose, etc., by A. W. C. Brawns, Esq. The Mines of Jesus Maria and San Jose. 141 tion ; want of security in many localities on one hand, and an almost total want of industry and perseverance, of prudence, forethought, and economy on the other, are among the princij^al reasons of the decay into which this most important pursuit has fallen of late. The many millions of gold and silver yearly exported from this republic attest the abundance and richness of the Mexican mines ; yet this product, as you well know, is as nothing to what they might produce under a differ- ent state of things. Almost all the old Spaniards who worked, mines in this country after the discovery of its mineral wealth realized fortunes so rapidly and easily that their successors thought their fortunes assured by merely being the owners of mines, altogether forgetting that it was also indispensable to personally look after their business, and to practice economy and prudence. Their riotous mode of life, their laziness and negligence, no mine in the world was rich enough to sustain, and, consequently, when a " borasca" made its aj^pearance, ar- it will in every mine once in a while, they not only founc themselves without the means of indulging in farthei luxury and extravagance, but also without the necessary funds to pierce through the " poor ores" and. dead rock in order to strike the "rich ores" again. Credit under such circumstances they could not obtain — for who would trust a gambling spendthrift? — consequently, were obliged to sell or abandon mines that had produced mil- lions. Their successors, no sooner did they strike a "bo- nanza" than, either by inclination or seduced by others, they commenced to enjoy life in pretty much the same manner, which, with very few exceptions, ended in like results. " Like master, like man ;" the overseers and servants, finding the business left entirely in their own hands, soon began to think that a few pounds of ore ev- ery day, more or less, made no difference to their masters. 142 Arizona and Sonora. and would never be missed; and, being excellent judges of ore, they always selected the very richest for them- selves — ore so rich that a few pounds of it often enabled them to imitate their master's gambling and carousing on a small scale. Yet this working of mines, and living in great profusion and pleasurable excitement, in the hope of a speedy fortune, was too good to be monopo- lized by Mexicans alone. The fame of the rich mines had sj^read to Euroj^e, and induced men of capital to come out or to send represent- atives. The example of one foreigner, Avhose name it would be cruel to mention, will exemplify the case of many of his class who sunk fortunes in this manner. He had been sent out by a joint stock company to insj^ect the mines and veins of " Jesus Maria," and to invest a considerable capital in some of them, with a view of real- izing fifty per cent, per annum on it. Furnished with plenty of introductory letters, he no sooner made his ap- pearance at this mining town than its elite^ rejoiced to see a new face, overwhelmed him with profuse hospitalities, shortening the nights, and many of the days too, with the excitement of gambling and all sorts of debauchery. Pleased and gratified by this warm reception in a strange land, he deemed himself in honor bound to show his ap- l^reciation by a return of similar hospitalities ; and thus dinners, balls, picnics, shooting and fishing parties, with bands of music hired for the nonce at a couple of hundred dollars, and Champagne at fifty dollars a basket, not to mention the other questionable inventions for killing time, was the order of the day for six months in succession. Being far removed from Europe, it took a long time to correspond ; but at last answers arrived from home to letters which he had dispatched after his arrival (and which had l^een filled with glowing accounts of the wealth of the " Jesus Maria mines" and their owners), express- Tlte Mines of Jcsiis .i\[