AKiNG A Wer Garde? iLLlAIvi 1 i. Lr Class Book. c/'p ^t ^ Gopyiight}!?- COPYRIGHT DEPOSm MAKING A WATER GARDEN THE HOUSE cS- GARDEN MAKING BOOKS IT is the intention of the publishers to make this series of little volumes, of which Making a Water Garden is one, a complete library of authoritative and well illustrated handbooks deal- ing with the activities of the home-maker and amateur gardener. Text, pictures and diagrams will, in each respective book, aim to make perfectly clear the possibihty of having, and the means of having, some of the more important features of a modern country or suburban home. Among the titles already issued or planned for early pub- lication are the following: Making a Rose Gar- den; Making a Laion; Making a Tennis Court; Making a Fireplace; Making Paths and Drive- ways; Making a Poultry House; Making a Gar- den with Hotbed and Coldframe; Making Built- in Furniture; Making a Rock Garden; Making a Garden to Bloom this Year; Making a Garden of Perennials; Making the Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery ; Making a Bulb Garden, Making a Garage, Making and Furnishing Outdoor Rooms and Porches; with others to be announced later. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/makingwatergardeOOtric a ^ Making a Water Garden By WILLIAM TRICKER AUTHOR OF THE WATER GARDEN NEW YORK McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY 1913 Copyright, 1913, by McBride, Nast & Co. Published, January, 1913 / xTO ©CI.A343i3 CONTENTS PAGE Species and Varieties of W^ter Lilies 1 Conditions for Growing Water Lil- ies 10 Hardy Plants for the Water Gar- den 22 The Selection of a Site . . . . S7 Planting and Care . . ., .. . 41 WlNTBRING ........ 45 THE ILLUSTRATIONS An Effective Small Pool of Hardy Water Lilies, Rushes and Grasses Frontispiece FACING PAGE A Good Example of Natural Plant- ing AT Bronx Botanical Garden, New York 6 A Concrete Pool Well Set in a For- mal Garden 14 Limnocharis Humboldti, Water Poppy. 24 Ni/mphcea marliacea rosea .... 24 Victoria Trickeri Combined with Ten- der OR Tropical Nymph^eas and Victorias 28 NympJicea odorata, Eugenia de Land . 34 Nelumhium roseum plenum .... 34 Eichhornia crassipes major. Water Hyacinth 40 Nymphcea, Mrs. C. W. Ward ... 48 Making a Water Garden SPECIES AND VARIETIES OF WATER LILIES \ WATER garden may be of large di- mensions covering many acres of natural ponds, bogs and swamps, where water lilies, Egyptian and Japanese lotus, bloom together with all the varied species of bog and aquatic plants both native and exotic. Such a garden can only be constructed and maintained at a great cost and only a few of our large public parks and gardens make the effort, but are content with a smaller work and a display of the various water lilies in artificial ponds. These, however, are so 2 Making a Water Garden attractive that almost everyone has the desire to produce such charming effects in his own garden. Hence the average water garden is of moderate dimensions and in many instances consists only of a few tubs. Water lilies are universally known as they are indigenous to all sections of the globe, the temperate and tropical sec- tions each claiming its own distinctive species. The native water lilies of the United States, with the exception of the southern, are white and of these there are many distinct varieties, usually found in large ponds and margins of lakes — only one form in a single pond or locality however. In Europe, or through the temper- ate zone, the majority of species are very Varieties of Water Lilies 3 similar, most of them being white. One notable exception is the Swedish pink lily. These, while similar in color of flower and leaf, differ much in root or rhizome. The American is of a running or rambling nature with many tubers in some in- stances, and of a soft or spongy texture ; the European has a solid rhizome with few side shoots, no tubers and produces flowers from a more compact crown. These and the many hybrids are classed as hardy. The water lilies of the southern states and South America are yellow and white. With the yellow Mexican lily and the Swedish pink lily the hybridization has given to the world many beautiful flowers blending pink and yellow. In many flow- ers the color is more intensified and we 4 Making a Water Garden have flowers ranging from pink to car- mine and rosy crimson and bright gar- net, while on the other hand we have pure yellow and yellow with pink and red shading to orange red. These too are all perfectly hardy, but as they all grow in water from two to four or more feet deep they are below the freez- ing line. I would not say they are frost proof. I have known ponds where by some accident or otherwise the water has been drawn off, and the roots were frozen and killed. I would advise that the valu- able hybrids be not exposed to freezing conditions. The exception in this case is the hardy water lily, Ni^mpJicea pygmosa. This I understand is hardy in Siberia and I have known roots of this to be frozen and live. Varieties of Water Lilies 5 The Swedish lily, 2V. Caspary or alha- rosea, is a cold-water lily and will not endure our hot summers ; but another ex- ception, this species is quite at home in one or two places in northern New York State where the water is cold in sum- mer. Another peculiarity; our eastern lilies will not thrive or continue any length of time in the southern states; they require a winter's rest. The Indian water lilies flower only at night for they cannot endure our noon-* day sun. The flowers open at sunset and close early next day if it is bright. Most of these lilies are red and white but here again through the hybridist's art the range of color is greatly extended and we have flowers from a soft pink to deep red and maroon to bright crimson. 6 Making a Water Garden The African species are mostly blue as are the Australian and those from Zanzi- bar. These are day-blooming and a val- uable class of water lilies. They are of eas}^ culture, very free flowering and use- ful for cut flowers and very fragrant. The Zanzibar lily has red in its compo- sition and seedlings are sometimes red. These are beautiful flowers and with the Mexican white, N. gracilis, the only white day-flowering species (in cultivation or worth cultivating) we have three colors not met with in the other classes — a red, white and blue. These are known as ten- der varieties but are wintered indoors in a dormant condition. With trifling care there is no reason why this large collec- tion of water lilies from all parts of the world may not be grown in part, if not all Varieties of Water Lilies 7 of them, out of doors in summer in all sec- tions of the United States. The early varieties of the hardy nymphagas commence flowering in April and continue until midsummer. The tender varieties commence flowering in June and continue until frost, making a long and continuous season unequaled by any other class. Water lilies as cut flowers are valuable for decorative purposes especially the tender varieties. All water lilies of the temperate zone with one or two excep- tions have floating flowers; that is, they rest or float on the surface of the water. These are beautiful flowers for shallow dishes or bowls. The many varieties of Nelumhium or lotus, though classed as hardy aquatic plants, are in a class by 8 Making a Water Garden themselves. These produce flowers on tall stems four or more feet high and are amongst the choicest of aquatic plants and are worthy of culture for cut flowers. Ancient history has much to say of the sacred lotus flowers and the flowers are held in the highest esteem by people of the Orient. Still more remarkable are the water lilies of Africa. With the many new hybrids, flowers are produced on stout stems eighteen to twenty-four inches high, standing clear of the water, strong and rigid. These are best adapted for vases and different usages. The Indian varieties are equally if not more serviceable as they open their flow- ers at night and remain open until nearly noon the following day. What is more, the beauty of the flowers seems to be en- Varieties of Water Lilies 9 hanced by artificial light whereas the African, being day bloomers, close at night, besides blue flowers are not good colors under artificial light. CONDITIONS FOR GROWING WATER LILIES "lyi TATER lilies grow naturally in ponds, usually in low ground where the washing of fine soil, silt and humus accumulates what may be considered rich soil and plenty of it. Most ponds to hold water must have a stiff, retentive clayey bottom or subsoil. From this we may in- fer that under artificial conditions a rich soil is imperative for the plants to grow in. On this point many failures may be recorded. I have seen many plants starved to death in artificial ponds, where, had the plants had ample root room they would have been a grand suc- cess. The best kind of soil is a loamy 10 Growing Water Lilies ii sod composted with cow manure. What would be considered good soil is good for water lilies ; if such is not at hand use the next best to be procured. Do not use fresh manure; it will cause fermentation. Peat or leaf-mold — except with heavy soil or even mud from an old pond — is not desirable either. Soil that is inclined to be heavy and rich in humus is the proper kind to use. For fertilizer, well rotted cow manure gives best results and where such manure is not at hand the commercial sheep and cow manure may be used, but not as freely as the other — say one part to four; the other, one to three. As to the quantity of soil for a single plant, I should recommend four to ten cubic feet. The hardy varieties are not 12 Making a Water Garden as vigorous as the tender varieties and for one plant of tender kinds I should use a box about 3x4x1 feet — a trifle smaller if surface space is limited. Where a specimen plant can be grown it will easily cover one hundred square feet, but smaller plants in smaller boxes give excellent results for general purposes. The hardy nymphaeas may be planted in April, provided the season is not late. The season should be a little advanced so as to assure immediate growth, other- wise mutilated roots are liable to decay, but they may be planted any time during the growing season until August. It is not safe to plant nelumbiums before May and if the season is cold and late do not plant before the 15th of May. If for any purpose planting be deferred later, Growing Water Lilies 13 use pot grown plants which may be set out in June and July. The hardy nymphaeas may be planted from the middle of May to the middle of June, according to locality and condi- tion of the season. In the neighborhood of New York the end of May is about right; with Victorias the end of June in unheated ponds. One great mistake made by the amateur is in attempting to grow too many plants in a small pond or pool. The plants us- ually at planting time are small, very small to some people's ideas, but all the tender nymphaeas are tropical and few realize what tropical vegetation is. The plants should have ample root space and abundance of rich soil and where there is sufficient space for leaf development 14 Making a Water Garden the box for soil should be of correspond- ing size or space. Thus a tender nymphsea that will cover from 50 to 75 square feet of water surface requires from 9 to 10 cubic feet of rich loamy soil and a box S'xS'xl' will suffice for one plant. Anything smaller than this means a smaller plant and smaller flowers. Have boxes, tubs or other receptacles filled with soil, surfaced with sand, fine or coarse, and water about four or six inches over the top of the box and warmed by action of sun a few days previous to planting. Have everything in readiness to facilitate planting when plants are ready. For the amateur who has but a small garden and wants to start a water gar- den, a few tubs make a very satisfactory Growing Water Lilies 15 beginning. Select a sunny spot and if possible have something for a back- ground, tall plants or shrubs. Place the tubs in two rows, three in back and two in front, intercepting each other. Fill the tubs two-thirds full of good soil as before recommended, covering with sand and filling with water. The tubs should be sunken in the ground and the space between tubs planted with some moisture loving plants such as parrot's feather and a few cyperus alternifolius in the rear. The middle tub in back row may be planted with a nelumbium, being tall, and the rest with nymphaeas. Suitable plants for tubs and small basins will be found on page 22. A concrete basin will be found more durable and not ex- pensive and preferable to tubs, and can 1 6 Making a Water Garden be made any size to suit requirements. Select a spot as advised for tubs, either oval, circular or oblong, excavate to about S8 inches. In some cases the soil taken out can be used to build up around the spot. Make the sides smooth, slightly slanting outward. Make a form in one piece or sections and firmly secure around the sides, leaving a space not less than four inches for concrete, the latter to be reinforced with strong chicken wire or other wire netting or iron lathing. Arrange the netting in place so as to be in the middle of the wall. The concrete should consist of the fol- lowing ingredients and proportion: — 2 bags Portland cement 3 barrows of sand Growing Water Lilies 17 5 barrows of gravel or finely broken stone. This work may be done by ordinary help or a local man accustomed to laying concrete walks and such work. Tanks, basins, etc., may be made any size but larger tanks should have a six or eight inch wall and be reinforced with the usual steel bars and rods as now used in con- crete buildings. These are, when rightly built, water tight and frost proof and may be kept full of water in winter. The small basins as previously recom- mended, with walls but four inches thick, should be protected in winter. Water lilies are sun-loving plants and should be fully exposed, though trees, shrubbery, etc., are desirable as a break 1 8 Making a Water Garden against the prevailing winds, but these should cast no shadow on the pond or plants. Fountain basins may be planted with aquatic plants but they cannot be successfully grown with a fountain con- tinually spouting. Where the water ef- fect is desired omit the plants. It is un- necessary to change the water in the tubs, pools, or basins. Keep filled up as the water evaporates and do not allow a continuous stream to run with the idea of cleaning the water. Avoid a pond hav- ing a cold spring in it unless it is large enough to allow planting a distance from the spring. Water from a spring open to the action of the sun and air may be utilized for supplying or feeding ponds. What is called stagnant water is good for aquatic plants. The plants will Growing Water Lilies 19 oxygenate the water and change an un- sightly pool to a beauty spot. Algae will form more or less in all ponds and artificial pools but this is read- ily cleaned by using sulphate of copper (blue stone) in a bag placed in the water for a short time. Any solution of cop- per will have the same effect. In all cases where aquatic plants are grown, be sure to have gold fish in the water. This not only adds to the attraction of the pool but is the best means to eradicate the mosquito. Alg^e. a word of caution is advis- able here. Sulphate of copper will cleanse water of algse, but if too strong will kill young fish as well. Placed in the water in a common bag it soon dissolves and permeates the whole pond and little 20 Making a Water Garden effect is seen on the plants. If, however, it is dissolved in water and sprayed on the plants with ever so fine a spray it will ruin them. Bordeaux mixture will also kill algae but the lime will leave a white- wash effect on the plants which is not de- sirable. Caustic lye will have the same effect as the lime or the sulphate of copper, and the potash is beneficial as a fertilizer. Dissolve the sulphate of cop- per in a pail and the lye in another, then mix the two, adding water twenty-five parts. This solution will leave a dull sooty sediment on the leaves not objec- tionable and not injurious to the plants. Another form is copper carbon, a fine powder that may be distributed with a powder gun where only a few tubs are oc- cupied or there is a small pond. Another Growing Water Lilies 21 solution and perhaps the most accommo- dating for most purposes, used with the least trouble and probably with the best results, is an ammoniacal solution of cop- per. This can be bought in seed stores by the quart or larger quantities, with printed instructions for using, but these must not be followed closely. Dilute £5% more water, making the water the color of light bluing water. In this case there is the danger from the ammonia burning the leaves of the plants. Use the solution weak and repeat if necessary and the best results will be obtained and an amount of vexatious labor saved. HARDY PLANTS FOR THE WATER GARDEN ri^HE following hardy nymphasas are best suited for tub culture, fountain basins and small pools. N. Graziella — yellow changing to orange red j^. Laydeheri rosea — dolicate rose pink to carmine N. Laydekeri lilacea — rosy lilac N. LaydeJceri purpurata — rosy crimson N. Aurora — soft rosy yellow changing to deep red N, fulva — yellow shaded pink to orange red Plants for the Water Garden 23 N. yygmaea — pure white N, pygmaea var. Tielvola — yellow Nelumbiums in variety and all tender day-blooming nymphaeas For large ponds any other variety may be used but avoid planting the AT. tu- berosa forms among the European va- rieties as the former are very strong growers and will smother the moderate growers. Besides the nymphaeas best adapted for tubs some beautiful and ornamental specimens can be had by using the papy- rus for a center plant or plants with Cyperus alternifolius interspersing. These grow about three feet high, about half the height of the papyrus, covering the lower part of the tall stalks of papy- 24 Making a Water Garden rus. With parrot's feather planted in the tub there is a resultant covering at once very pleasing and graceful. The following list gives miscellaneous aquatic plants: — Acorus Calamus variegatus Aponogeton distachyum Cyperus alternifolius C. papyrus Jussiena longifolia LimnantJiemum (Water snowflake) Limmocharis (Water poppy) Myrlophyllum proserpinacoides Parrot's feather) Sagittaria in variety. Other plants are very ornamental and desirable for tubs. The pickerel weed, Pontederia cordata, growing about two and a half feet high, has beautiful dark Limnocharis Humboldti, water poppy, has brilliant yellow flowers as large as its leaves and is very free growing, flowering continuously all summer Xi/mphcca marliacea rosea is one of the best of this group, but iV. m. albida, white; N. m. Carnee, pink; N. m. chromatella, yellow; N. m. rosea, rose pink; are all similar in growth Plants for the Water Garden 25 green glossy foliage surmounted with deep blue flowers. A few plants of the calamus are also attractive. Even our native cat-tall, Typlia latifolia, and wild rice, Zizania aquatica, and Lythrum roseum, loose strife (a beautiful plant 4 to 6 feet high producing large spikes of deep rose colored flowers in abundance), are well adapted for tub culture and should not be omitted from the water garden large or small. Sagittarias, the arrowheads, both single and double, de- serve a place in every collection, but the calamus, sweet flag, and its variegated companion are indispensable. These as centerpieces for tubs with Limnanthe- mums and water hyacinths, water pop- pies, and parrot's feather, make an inter- esting adjunct to the miniature water garden and are indispensable in a large 26 Making a Water Garden or moderate sized pond. Many other beautiful plants are associated with aquatics and are only seen in their best form growing in wet or moist ground. The giant reedj Arundo donax and A. donax variegata, Eulalia in variety, Asclepias incarnata. Hibiscus MoscJieu- tos, swamp rose mallow, with its popular hybrids of many shades of color from white to pink, rose red and deep crimson, i — Lobelia cardinalis, L» syphilitica, Se- necio livorum with gorgeous orange-yel- low flowers, Thalictrum in variety, not omitting the early flowering Caltha pa- lustris, the marsh marigold and Myosotis palustris, the water forget-me-not, should be ranked as available for water gar- dens. Victoria regia has long been known as Plants for the Water Garden 27 an aquatic wonder. Novelty does not de- scribe it. It is wonderful in size, wonder- ful in construction, wonderful in growth, a plant attaining leaves of wondrous pro- portion in about four months from seed sowing. This plant as grown is but an annual. Its leaves are five to six feet in diameter with a turned up rim of five or more inches. Then again, the under side of the leaves, stalk and flower bud is thicMy set with sharp spines. Victoria Trickeri (F. Cruziana) of more recent in- troduction, has many characteristics of V. Regia but is by far the best to grow and can be grown under similar conditions as the tender nymphaeas. For a miniature water garden where only two or three tubs can be utilized, the Chinese pigTiiy water lily, Nymphwa 28 Making a Water Garden tetragona and its hybrids, N, Helvola and N. Laydekeri rosea, are exquisitely choice and dainty. IV. tetragona is a rapid growth with beautiful dark green foliage, and pure white flowers two inches across, probably the smallest water lily in exist- ence. N. Helvola has a yellow flower very similar to the preceding variety but with beautifully mottled foliage. jV. Laydekeri rosea, is another hybrid of N. tetragona, one of the earliest introduc- tions, now very scarce and almost lost to cultivation. The flowers when first open- ing are a delicate pink with deep golden center; the second day are many shades deeper and the third day a deep rose pink. As the plant is very free flowering and usually there are flowers of different ages open the same day, it presents a Plants for the Water Garden 29 novel appearance. To these may be added a blue variety (not hardy) N, Daubiniana, which produces miniature blue flowers at a very early stage and can be grown in a tub or half barrel. The above four varieties, white, yellow, pink and blue, form a unique set and are most desirable for tubs or a Japanese garden. Water lilies especially adapted for me- dium sized ponds, natural or artificial are as follows: — White. — NympJioea alba candidissima and N, Marliacce albida are two of the best white varieties and hybrids of the white European species. They differ greatly from the American species, N, Odorata and N. tuherosa. They are com- pact in growth and not given to ramble or possess the whole pond. 30 Making a Water Garden Yellow. — Nymp}i(sa marliacca chro- matella is still the best of the pure yel- low water lilies for most purposes. N. odorata sulpTiwrea is a good yellow lily but is of a straggling growth. Yellow and Red. — N. Paul Hariot stands foremost, a grand and magnificent flower of the largest size. It is clear yellow with delicate shadings of red at the base of petals, deepening in color succeeding days, N, Rohinsoni is very distinctive both in form and color; petals broad at base, of a rich yellow deepening red toward the center; the stamens are rich orange red. One of the best of the yellow-red, flowering, hardy, day-bloom- ing group. Pink and Red. — N, Marliacea rosea is the best of the pink varieties resembling Plants for the Water Garden 31 other Marliacea in form, size and habit of growth. Flowers large; deep rose- pink in color. N. William Doogue is an- other choice pink water lily; flowers large, beautiful cup-shaped and of a deli- cate shell-pink color. N, Gloriosa is a nymphaea unsurpassed in its exquisite and unique color and chaste finish; flow- ers large, of a deep carmine rose. A^. James Brydon, a superb variety repre- sents the highest achievement of the American hybridist art. The flowers are uniformly large and of perfect form and finish and a rich rosy-crimson color. N. Wm. Falconer, another American hy- rid; the most brilliant dark red hardy water lily in cultivation; of an intense bright garnet color. N, Arethusa. A counterpart of N, James Brydon, except 32 Making a Water Garden in color, which is a brilliant crimson pink. The four last varieties are of American origin and are unsurpassed by any Euro- pean variety. The above twelve are the choicest va- rieties of hybrid hardy nymphaeas em- bracing the largest flowers, the most dis- tinct colors, vigorous growth, free flower- ing, none of which produces seed. The following twelve nymphaeas are best adapted for large ponds or lakes and should be planted in large clumps and in some instances only two or three clumps in a pond. The difference be- tween these and the preceding twelve is that these plants have spreading roots requiring more space, and produce seed, which when ripe spreads over the whole pond and the following season the strong- Plants for the Water Garden 33 est varieties usually possess the whole area. The prevailing colors are white and pink. Nymphoea odorata — The common sweet scented water lily of the eastern states. White. Very desirable. N. odorata gigantia — Large white pond-lily of mid-Atlantic states. Large and good but lacking in fragrance to N, Odorata. White. N. odorata Luciana — A pure pink water lily, larger and stronger grower than A^. Odorata rosea. The Cape Cod pink lily. Exquisitely fragrant. N, odorata W. B. Shaw — A large rose flower, a strong grower, and where there is ample space produces an abundance of large flowers valuable for cutting pur- poses. 34 Making a Water Garden N. odorata, sulpJiurea and sulphurea grandiflora ■— a hybrid water lily, a cross between N. Odorata and the Florida lily, iV. fa'va, which is the yellow species. The flowers of this lily do not float but like the Florida lily stand six or eight inches above the water. N, odorata Eugenia de Land — A new water lily of recent introduction produc- ing extra large flowers of the true odo- rata type, of an exquisite shade of deep rose pink of iridescent hues. Plants are very vigorous and free flowering ; grand for cutting. iV. odorata, Mrs. Roche — Another novelty of the odorata type. Vigorous and free flowering; flowers standing above the water and are distinct and fine; the color is deep cerise pink, better de- ]!\iimphcea odorata, Eugenia de Land, is a new hybrid of deep rose pink with iridescent hues and exquisitel}" fragrant >iii Nelumbium ro.^-eum pletium is a double form with large, bright rose flowers cultivated as the Egyptian lotus Plants for the Water Garden 35 scribed as " Helen pink." This and the preceding variety were awarded a Silver Medal as distinctive new and meritorious varieties at the Newport, R. I. Horticul- tural Society, September 14th, 1912. "N. tuherosa — A native species of the middle western states ; a very strong grower and produces enormous large white flowers suitable only for large ponds and lakes. N. tuherosa maxima — The name would imply that it was larger than the preceding, but a few years ago it was considered to belong to the odorata type, as it was found growing in the state of New Jersey, but it was found to belong to the tuberosa class when dug, for the rhizomes were found to have many tubers thereon. The large white flowers com- 36 Making a Water Garden pare favorably with the European spe- cies, N, alba candidissima, N. tuberosa rosea is a natural cross, not so strong a grower as the type ; flow- ers pink. N. tuberosa Richardsoni — This is one of the very best of the white flowering water lilies. The flowers are extra large, petals incurving, forming a perfect sphere when fully open; six to eight inches across. A superb variety. N, Helen Fowler — A natural cross possessing all the good qualities of the species but with the additional good qual- ity of having large flowers of a rich rose pink color, very fragrant and desirable for cut purposes. Certificated by the Horticultural Society of New York. THE SELECTION OF A SITE A S no two gardens are similarly situ- ated, no definite instruction can be laid down, but a few points applicable in all instances may be considered. The chief necessity is water, the supply being either natural or artificial. It matters not if it is a running stream, spring water, rain water or from a city supply. One of the best sources is a small slug- gish stream wending its way through a more or less level piece of ground and widening out, making a system of pools and lakes on a larger scale. The ground sloping somewhat toward the stream af- fords the best conditions for bog and 3T 38 Making a Water Garden moisture-loving plants since the water and water lilies are always seen from above, or looking down upon the flowers. No artificial garden where concrete or masonry is used can afford such ideal spots and margins for such plants as are found in nature's garden. The next be_st or artificial water garden is similar to that just described excepting that the water supply is artificial and this is all possible, especially where there is a decliv- ity of the ground. Ponds naturally are in the low spots and tanks; pools or arti- ficial ponds should not be built on side hills unless graded to make a perfectly level surface. Suitable planting should be em- ployed here to obliterate the undesirable lines when masonry is used. The top of the wall should be at least two inches be- The Selection of a Site 39 low the surface of the soil to allow a sod of grass or other plants to cover and so hide all signs of the masonry. The next consideration to water sup- ply is the outlet, overflow, etc. In the former case provision against a freshet should be made, for if such happening oc- curred the whole garden would be de- stroyed. Where an artificial supply is used this will be unlooked for, but the pond or pools will need an overflow and may need to be drained of the water. Just how this is to be accomplished de- pends entirely on each particular case. In either case the outlet must needs be near or directly on the bottom of the pond and as circumstances call for. Do not have the overflow in the wall but con- nected with the outlet. The outlet may 40 Making a Water Garden be regulated with a valve the size of which may depend on the volume of water to be drawn off. To this should be ad- justed a stand pipe in two or more sec- tions that will regulate the depth of water in the pond. When required full the stand pipe should be level with the de- sired surface. This will allow any for- eign matter and possibly insects to be I washed off the surface if such exist. The supply of water necessary after once filled is nominal, requirement only suf- ficient to replace what is lost by evapo- ration. The depth of the pool when fin- ished and ready for planting should be two feet. It may be more, but this af- fords ample means for an attendant to get in amongst the plants without get- ting beyond the depth of a pair of ordi- nary rubber boots. PLANTING AND CARE T HAVE called attention to soil and boxes for planting, but the matter of planting, the selection of varieties is more or less perplexing and to select from a descriptive catalogue, not knowing the varieties, is equally harassing. In con- sulting a catalogue one is confronted with hardy varieties, tender varieties, day and night blooming varieties, nelumbiums and Victorias, besides miscellaneous plants. The hardy varieties are most diverse and care must be taken in selection. They embrace many shades of color ex- cept blue, and extremes in size from the 41 42 Making a Water Garden pygmea varieties to the gigantic propor- tions of the tuherosa class besides ram- bling spreading varieties suitable only for large ponds or lakes. These should be omitted from a list of European and hybrid varieties, for if planted in the same pond they will outgrow and smother the medium and small growers. For small and medium sized ponds, omit all the odorata and tuberosa forms. These are not only strong growers but are seed producing plants which greatly adds to their prolific propagation, and cuts off their flowering season, for invariably when a plant carries a crop of seed it stops flowering. The hybrid varieties do not produce seed and have not a rhi- zome or running tuberous root. They are however perpetual flowering plants Planting and Care 43 except in very warm sections in midsum- mer. The tender varieties are entirely dis- tinct from the hardy class and are con- sidered superior for several reasons. There are two classes of these — day blooming and night blooming. They furnish the best flowers for cutting, they are larger than the hardy kinds, they grow very rapidly during the summer months and continue in flower until cut down by frost. The flowers are produced on stout stalks often over two feet in length and standing well above the sur- face of the water, and are extremely fragrant and possess all shades of color save yellow. There are many shades of blue from pale lavender to rich deep pur- ple. These plants are of easy culture. 44 Making a Water Garden Planting should be done the latter end of May to the end of June. The plants are more vigorous than the hardy kinds and require more room and plenty of rich soil. They can be readily wintered in a