r 'i: X^^.:"^ '"^■m^ •', iV Im '/.:. i'- ,"Cf»'. S'r '■>■?."■■.■ ■ I.' I iTA ■n'.--.vr -1 ' r: ;*' ■•'-, '-»'*TA.':.«f.,; Class JE3SJ Book.>[i^'5 ^ TH E Lanck, Cross and Canoe ; THE FLATBOAT, RIFLE AND PLOUGH IN THE VflliliEY OF THE IWISSISSIPPI THE BACKWOODS HUNTER AND SETTLER, THE FLATBOATMAN, THE SADDLE-BAGS PARSON, THE STUMP ORATOR AND LAWYER, AS THH PlOflEEf^S OF ITS CiVlLiIZflTIOrl ITS ' GREAT - LEADERS REMARKABLE EXTENT AND WEALTH OF RESOURCE ITS PAST ACHIEVEMENTS AND GLORIOUS FUTURE ^ BY b Chaplain U. S. Congress, Author of '■'■ The Pioneers, Preachers and People of the Mississippi Valley,''' '■'■The Rifle, Axe and Saddle- Bags,'' '■'■Ten Years of Preacher Life," ''What a Blind Man Saiv in Europe," Etc., Etc., Etc. Nearly 200 Striking Engravings, Including Maps, Portraits, Scenes and Incidents KROIVL ORIGINAL DESIGNS NEW YORK AND ST. LOUIS: N. D. THOMPSON PUBLISHING CO. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1892, by WILLIAM HENRY MILCURN, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. D. G. ^ TO MRS. PHCEBE APPERSON HEARST, WHO, BORN AND BRED NEAR WHERE THE MISSOURI JOINS THE MISSISSIPPI, REP- RESENTS BETTER THAN ANY ONE ELSE I KNOW THE VERY FLOWER AND CROWN OF THE GREAT VALLEY,— THE LIFE AND CHARACTER OF ITS NOBLEST WOMEN.— THIS VOLUME IS INSCRIBED BY THE AUTHOR. PREFACE. IN this book I have tried to tell the story of the explorers of the Mississippi Val- ley — De Soto, Marquette and Joliet, La Salle and Tonti, Bienville, Lewis and Clarke, and Fremont; of the pioneers — Boone, Kenton, George Rogers Clarke, and their associates ; of the old preachers — Moravian, Baptist, Presbyterian, and Metho- dist; and of the people, their warfare with the red-men, their homes and ways, their struggles for life and for social and civil order, and their triumphs. I have sketched the career of some of the leaders in thought and action — Henry Clay, An- drew Jackson, William Henry Harrison, Jo Hamilton Daviess, Humphrey Marshall, Sam. Houston, Thomas Hart Benton, Lewis Cass, George D. Prentice; and of two of the most remarkable orators that have appeared in the great valley, or anywhere else — Tom Corwin and Seargent Smith Prentiss. The Lance is used as a symbol for De Soto, the Cross for the saintly Marquette, the Canoe for La Salle, Bienville, and the other French voyageurs; while the Flat-boat, Rifle, and Plough, represent the American backwoodsmen. The book has not been written for historical scholars and critics, but for the people and their children ; and, therefore, while striving to be accurate and faithful in all statements of fact, I have sought to bring out, in popular form, the picturesque and ro- mantic persons and events from the campaign of DeSoto to our own time, and to make it racy of the soil. I have laid everybody under contribution — Bancroft, Parkman, Shea, Winsor, and all other writers of celebrity that have treated of my theme, and many others not so widely known. Much of my material, however, has been drawn at first-hand from the early settlers of the country. Within the last fifty years I have journeyed over the vast region many times, from the British lines to the Rio Grande, from the headwaters of the Mississippi, Missouri, the Arkansas, the Ohio; the Holston, the French Broad, and other springs of the Tennessee; and nearly every other affluent, large or small, of the great river through whose mouth they find their way to the Gulf of Mexico. There is scarcely a town or city in the wide district I have not visited. I have known Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul, Minneapo- lis, Kansas City, Omaha, Denver, since they were villages ; and Pittsburg, Cincinnati, vii Vlll PREFACE. Cleveland, Louisville, St. Louis, and Memphis, when thej were scarcely more. My wayfarings have brought me in contact with nearly every man of note that has ap- peared upon the stage of the AYest within the past half century, and the enthusiasm of my love for the country in which, and for the people among whom, more than half my life has been spent, has grown with my years. It is a great pleasure to return my thanks for the substantial help generously ren- dered me by Col. Eeuben T. Durrett, of Louisville, without whose aid and the re- sources of his matchless collection, no man can write a history of the West. I am under no small obligation to A. C. Quissenberry, Esq., of the bar department, for the valuable assistance he has given me in preparing my sketch of Humphrey Mar- shall. I also cordially thank my old friends, Messrs. Harper and Brothers, for leave to use such matter as I have wanted and found in their publications. I also wish to heartily acknowledge the co-operation of Mr. Charles Burr Todd in the production of this book, and to pay deserved tribute to his .literary ability and untiring industry. In the compilation of facts — the investigation of authorities, and verification of dates — as well as in more direct literary effort in many of the sketches, his services have been material and valuable. I cannot forbear the expression of my hope that this volume may find its way to the homes of my friends throughout the whole country, and to the firesides of many others in this and distant lands, and that its reading may give pleasure and profit to old and young. ^ jj MILBURN. Washington, I). C. TABLE OF CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. THE VALLEY. Page. The Valley Defined.— The Great River, its Beauty and Majesty Its Lordly Tributaries.— The Delta.— Characteristics of the Valley.— The Great Lakes 33 CHAPTER I. THE LANCE. SHALL SPAIN HAVE THE VALLEY? The Spaniard of the Year 1500. — His Roseate Dreams. — Juan Ponce De Leon. — Fountains of Youth and Mountains of Gold. — A Step from the Quixotic to the Satanic. — De Ayllon. — Pamphilo De Narvaez. — De Soto in Florida. — Alvar Nunez Cabacca De Vaca. — Don Vasco Forcallo De Figue- roa. — Baltazar Gallegos. — Juan Ortiz. — Indian Massacres and Reprisals. — Lost in a Wonder- land. — Storming a Walled City. — Hail of Arrows. — Sword and Shield Triumphant. — Toward the Mountain of Gold. — A Weary Way. — The Mississippi Discovered. — Circuit of the Arkansas and Red. — Death of the Great Leader 37 CHAPTER II. THE CROSS. FATHER MARQUETTE AND HIS DISCOVERY. The French in the Great Valley. — Daring of the Cross. — Martyrs for Christ. — Youges. — Bre- boeuf. — L'AUemand. — Rambout. — Joliet. — Marquette, the Apostle. — His Birth and Lineage. — His Missionary Labors. — Discovers the Mississippi. — His Sad Death 67 CHAPTER III. THE CANOE. ROBERT CAVALIER DE LA SALLE, An Adventurer of Mettle. — Birth and Early Achievements. — Explores the Mississippi to Its Mouth. — Takes Possession in the Name of France. — Fights his Way Back. — Returns to France. — Sails with a Fleet to the Mouth of the Mississippi. — Fails to Find it.— Deserted by his Captains. — Murdered in the Wilderness ■ 84 TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. AN IDYL OF THE WILDERNESS. PAGE. The French at Kaskaskia. — A Western Arcadia. — Manners and Customs of the Villagers. — Simple Faith. — Neither Lawyers nor Courts. — A Paternal Government. — "Where Ignorance is Bliss." — Bean-Balls. — Kings and Queens of a Night. — Spaniards March Against them. — A Second Ar- mada Defeat. — Kaskaskia Fortified. — Description of Fort Chartres 109 CHAPTER V. WAR OF THE LILIES AND THE LION. England Appears in the Valley. — Her Magnificent Claim from the Atlantic to the Pacific. — The Claim Examined. — Virginia Gains a Foothold. — George Washington, the Pioneer. — A Vol- ley Heard Around the World. — Braddock's Ill-starred Expedition. — William Pitt at the Helm. — Victory. — Canada and the Great West Made Anglo-Saxon 120 CHAPTER VI. THE RED MAN AND THE WAR OF PONTIAC. Language, Disposition, Manners and Customs of the Indians of the West. — Prowess and Wood-craft. — The Three Great Families. — Totems. — Pontiac's Birth, Genius, Character. — The Great Con- spiracy. — Siege of Fort Detroit. — Universal Rapine and Massacre. — Failure of the Siege of the Con- spiracy. — Pontiac Projects New Plots. — Col. Bouquefs Expedition. — Redeems American Pris- oners. — Murder of Pontiac 127 CHAPTER VII. CABIN HOMES OF THE WILDERNESS. Treaty Between the British and the Iroquois. — Washington's Instinct for Good Land. — Regulators. — Battle of the Alamance. — Pioneer Crossing of the Blue Ridge. — General Phineas Lyman. — The Connecticut Colony in Mi.^^sissippi. — An Adventurous Journey. — Among the Creeks. — Daniel Boone. — James Harrod. — Simon Kenton. — Lord Chatham's Appeal 160 CHAPTER VIII. GEORGE ROGERS CLARKE AND HIS COMPEERS. Au Indian Ahduction. — A Gallant Defense. — Birth and Character of Clarke. — Delegate to the Vir- ginia Legislature. — Leads a Force Against Kaskaskia. — Captures Kaskaskia. — His Statesmanship. — His Treaties with the Indians. — Expedition Against Vincennes. — Captures the Town. — His Death . . 179 CHAPTER IX. THE BATTLE OF KING'S MOUNTAIN. A Mountain Duel. — Settling the Preliminaries. — Advance and Retreat. — The Fight on the Mountain Top.— Gallantry of the Mountaineers. — Death of Colonel Ferguson. — A Decisive Victory 194 TABLE or CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER X. SHALL KENTUCKY'S BE THE FIFTEENTH STAR IN THE FLAG? PAGE. Kentucky After the War.— The Mississippi Must be Free.— Creating a State.— Yoder's Pioneer Voy- age. — Arrival of General Wilkinson.— Spanish Plots and Conspiracies.— J ay's Treaty in Kentucky. — A Western Empire Proposed. — French Intrigues. — Aaron Burr and his Plans. — Kentucky Be- comes a State. — Character of the Early Kentuckians 205 CHAPTER XL THE OLD NORTHWEST. Its Grand Proportions. — An Apple of Discord.— Conflicting Charters. — A Nation's Fate Hangs Upon it. — The Compromise. — The Northwest Land Ordinance. — Forever Free. — Settlement. — Five Great States Carved Out of it. — A National Almoner 230 CHAPTER XII. FRENCH CHIVALRY IN THE SOUTHWEST. Discoveries and Settlements. — How Mobile was Settled. — Crozat's Charter and Romantic Dreams. —John Law's Mississippi Company. — Exploits of Bienville. — Founds New Orleans. — Intrepid Gaul and Polite Castilian.— Village of the White Apple Chief, and What Took Place There.— Death of Chopart. — War Against the Chickasaws. — Arrival of the Acadians. — The Gaul Releases his Grasp on the Great Valley. — The Spaniard Seizes Louisiana.— The Anglo-Saxon's Advance from the East. — France Comes Again to Her Own, but Relinquishes it to the New Republic. — Traditions of the French Occupation. — A Princess in Disguise. — Beaudrot, the Hunter. — Bossu's Adventures. — The Clan M'Gillivray. — The Napoleonist Refugees 245 CHAPTER XIII. THROUGH THE GATES OF THE ROCKIES. An Unlaureled Hero. — A Statesman's Project. — The Men Who Carried it Out. — Sketches of Captains Lewis and Clarke. — Ascent of the Missouri. — The Winter Camp. — Path-Finding. — Great Falls of the Missouri. — Source of the Missouri. — A Hunting Adventure. — The Mountain Pass. — Fountains of the Columbia. — Descent of the River. — Hardships by the Way. — The Second Winter. — The Return. — Well-earned Plaudits 296 CHAPTER XIV. JOHN CHARLES FREMONT, THE PATH-FINDER. Birth and Character. — His First Essay as an Explorer. — Explores and Describes the South Pass, and the Counti-y Between. — His Second Expedition. — The Western Slope of the Rockies. — His Daring Adventures. — Discovers Great Salt Lake, the Sierra Nevada Range, the Sacramento and San Joaquin. — Third Expedition. — Saves California to the Union. — A Midnight Alarm and Massacre. — His Fourth Expedition. — Maps Out a Route for a Railroad to the Pacific. — Senator from California. —His Death 319 XU TABLE OF CONTENTS. PART 11. CHAPTER XV. THE OLD WILDERNESS ROAD. PAGE. Early Settlers in Kentucky. — Daniel Boone to the Rescue. — Itinerary of William Calk. — The Ride of Captain Van Cleve. — The Route by the Ohio River. — Its Perils and Hardships. — Captain HubbelPs Desperate Encounter with Indians 331 CHAPTER XVI. THE OLD PREACHERS AND THEIR PREACHING. Christian Frederick Post. — Fate of the Moravian Indians. — Pioneer Churches. — Camp Meetings. — Strange Manifestations There. — The Jerks. — Character, Genius, and Methods of the Early Preachers. — The Annual Conferences. — Bishop Asbury. — Anecdotes. — Salary of the Bishops. — How Brother Axley Sung Himself into the Widow's Good Graces. — William Burke's Pay for Preaching the Gospel. — Elisha W. Bowman's Missionary Labors. — Mr. Axley and Judge White. — Revs. William Raper and Russell Bigelow. — Dr. Durbin's Eloquence. — Henry B. Bascora, the Apollo of the West 338 CHAPTER XVII. THREE TYPICAL BACKWOODS PREACHERS. PETER CARTWRIOHT. — His Character, "Voice, Manner, Appearance. — Power of His Eloquence. — Anecdotes of. — '-Bring Me a Hatchet." — Cartwright and General Jackson. — Addicted to Wearing Galluses. — Forces the Ferryman to Pray. — Early Life — Licensed as an Exhorter. — Achievements. — A Muscular Christian, — At the Dance. PETER AKERS. — Personal Appearance. — Early Education. — A Free-thinker, — Conversion. — Set- tles at Lexington, Kentucky. — Removes to Illinois. — President of M'Kendree College. — Presiding Elder. — His Modesty. — Peculiarities. — A Remarkable Prayer. — Removes to Minnesota. CHAUNCEY HOB A.RT.— Personal Appearance.— "Stranger, You Must be President of the Track Society.'' — Early Life. — Pioneer Experiences, — Joins Illinois Conference, — His First Circuit. — A Watch-night Meeting. — Traveling Experiences. — A Frontier Journey 392 PART III. THE FLAT-BOAT, RIFLE AND PLOW. CHAPTER XVIII. THE PEOPLE. Their Nationality. — Characteristics. — Daily Life, Manners and Customs, — Dress, — Muscular De- velopment, — Diet. — Furniture. — Harvest Bees. — Dinner. — A Dance. — The "Infare."^ — The Rais- ing Bee. — An Indian Raid, — Scouting Adventures. — A Western Heroine — Madame Lecompte,— ^ TABLE OF CONTENTS. xiii Page. William Whiteside.— Wayne's Scouts, and their Dare-devil Deeds.— Filson's Bloody Voyage, as Narrated by Himself.— The Log School-house Described.— Early Pedagogues.— Anecdotes of.— An Arkansas "Noatis."— A Frontier Actor.— An Election Fight.— Early Educational Endow- ments.— Transylvania Seminary Founded.— The First Schoolmaster in Kentucky.— First Print- ing-press and Newspaper.— Advertisements.— Card Playing.— Lexington.— Louisville.— Result of an Earthquake Scare.— Pittsburg in its Infancy.— How Cincinnati was Founded.— Emerson on the March of Progress 427 CHAPTER XIX. THE WESTERN MIND. ITS MANIFESTATIONS, ELOQUENCE AND HUMOR. The Problem that First Confronted it.— From Material to Intellectual Development. — Skill as Con- stitution Framers.— Pioneer Laws.— Militia Musters. — The Stump-speech.— Specimen Speeches. Power of the Stump-orator Analyzed. — Its Language Corresponds to its Thought. — Wit and Humor. — Examples of an Indian Joke. — Westernisms. — A Bishop's Visit. — "The Way to Spring- field." — "No Time for Swappiii' Hosses."— Eastern and Western Eloquence Contrasted. — An Emersonian Story. — Anecdotes. — The Politicians 462 CHAPTER XX. GREAT LEADERS. Henry Clay. — Andrew Jackson. — William Henry Harrison. — Joseph Hamilton Daviess. — Humphrey Marshall. — Sam. Houston. — Thomas Hart Benton. — Lewis Cass. — Thomas Corwin. — George D. Prentice 4S3 CHAPTER XXI. THE BENCH AND THE BAR, Early Courts of Justice.— A Sentence of Death Which was Not Executed. — Judge Pickens. — Up- holding the Dignity of the Court. — Elder Hardscrabble. — Burwell Shines. — The Major. — An Extraordinary Court Scene. — The Sheriff and the Peddler 565 CHAPTER XXII. SEAKGENT S. PRENTISS AND THE FLUSH TIMES OF MISSISSIPPI. Speculating Mania. — Gamblers. — Black-legs.— Robbery. — Negro Stealing. — The Credit System. — Peculiar Banking Methods. — Barrels Crammed with Newly Signed Bills. — Land Litigation. — Parentage and Birth of Prentiss. — Early Education. — Revenge for a Whipping. — A Junior at Fifteen. — Studies Law in Cincinnati. — A School-teacher at Natchez, Mississippi. — Admitted to the Bar. — Duels with Gov. Foote. — Perfect Courage. — Personal Magnetism. — Power Over the Hearts of Men. — His Victories in Courts of Law. — His Power as a Public Speaker. — Personal Characteristics 579 XIV TABLE or CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXIII. ALL SORTS AND CONDITIONS OF MEN. PAGE The Guild of Stage-drivers. — The National Road. — Stage-lines. — Tavern-keepers. — "You Must be Powerful Dirty." — The Keel-boatmen. — Their Evolution, Character, Marksmanship, Code of Honor. — The First Steamboat. — Steamboat Voyaging on the Mississippi. — Racing. — Wood- ing. — Steamboat Passengers. — Some Pen-pictures. — Johnny Appleseed. — A Strange Figure in the Wilderness. — Life in Kentucky Fifty Years Ago - . . . . 624 CHAPTER XXIV. A LOOK BACKWARD AND A GLANCE FORWARD. Removal from Philadelphia to Illinois.— First Vision and Impression of the Prairies. — Jackson- ville, Illinois, Described. — Character of its Early Settlers. — Words of "Current Coin." — The Forum.— Anecdotes of Lincoln, Douglas, Butterfield, Palmer. — The Campaign of 1840. — Chi- cago in 1846. — Its Ambition, Energy, Faith in its Great Future. — Its Rapid Growth. — Notable Events in its History. — The Great Valley of To-day. — Its Boundless Resources. — Educational Advantages. — Bright Future 660 PAGE. Ducking the Feeryman . (Frontispiece.) Louis XIV 38 Ponce De Leon 39 Cortez 41 Columbus 43 Hernando De Soto 44 Gloom of the Cypress 45 Map Showing Supposed Route of Dk"! Soto and Moscoso in Arkansas and I Louisiana J 47 De Soto's Discovery of the Mississippi 50 An Incident in De Soto's First Battle 55 De Soto Pierced with an Arrow . . 57 Burial of De Soto 62 View on the Upper Mississippi ... 63 America Discovered 65 Marquette's Map of the Mississippi . 66 YoNGES Compelled to Run the Gaunt- \ LET by the Iroquois J 68 Marquette Descending the Mississippi \ River j 69 Scene on Red River 71 Map of Louisiana 74 Marquette, Joliet and Guide Cross- "1 iNG THE Wisconsin River . . . . / 78 "In Vernal Pasture Lands They Be- held THE Moose, the Elk and the Deer" J 80 "And Vast Herds of Buffalo Grazed) IN THE Meadows" / 81 De La Salle 85 Seneca Indian 87 Squaw and Child 88 Creek Indians 90 Indian Squaw 92 Indian Wigwam 93 Buffalo Cow and Calf 94 La Salle Displays the Arms of France 97 PAGE. La Salle's Landing in Texas .... 102 La Salle's Map of Texas 105 Night Encampment Ill City of St. Louis, as Laid Out by Col.] Augusts Chouteau, at the Found- y iNG of the City in 1764 J 112 St. Louis in 1780 114 Old Residence of Gov. A. McNair, St. \ Louis / 115 Sighting the Buffaloes 117 The State of Lakes — Minnesota . . . 121 Falls of the Missouri 122 Incident in the Universal Rapine and) Massacre j 130 Indians Attack Fort Detroit . . . . 13G The Ojibwas Surprise and Capture) Fort Michilmackinac j 139 A Deadly Leap 143 Indians Returning a Prisoner .... 145 Settlers in Camp on the Muskingum . 147 Birds op the Mississippi Valley . . . 158 Daniel Boone 162 Daniel Boone Alone in the Wilder-) NESS OF Kentucky J 163 House in Montgomery County, Mis- ) souRi, IN WHICH Boone Died . . . j 165 The Old Fort at Boonesborough . . 166 The Grave of Daniel Boone, Frank- ) FORT, Kentucky / 168 Simon Kenton 172 Simon Kenton, from his Cabin Home) IN THE Mountains, Visits the Capital j 174 General George Rogers Clarke ... 180 Indians Surprise Logan's Station . . 182 Early Home of George Rogers Clarke 184 Clarke and his Soldiers Crossing) THE Wabash J 190 XV XVI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE. Death of Colonel Ferguson at King's \ Mountain i 202 John Filson 209 General James Wilkinson 211 John Filson's Map ok Kentucky ... 214 A Second Map ok Kentucky, Drawn 1 BY John Filson, a. d. 1784 . . . . j 222 Aaron Burr 223 findley, the discoverer of kentucky 227 A Prairik Scene 232 The Banks op the Mississippi in the"! Steamboat Period J 238 Falls of Minnehaha 242 Falls of St. Anthony 243 Bienville 247 Bienville Building Fort Rosalie . . 248 Laying Out New Orleans 249 A Negro Insurrection 251 The Ursuline Convent Establisiikd "l BY THE French in New Orleans j 255 New Orleans in 1719 256 A Leap for Life 2G4 The Keel-Boat 267 Charlevoix's Descent of the Missis- 1 sippi River J 269 A Negro Village in Louisiana ... 273 The Sale of Louisiana 275 Map of the Louisiana Purchase ... 277 In the Canebrake 293 View in Grand Canon 297 Captain Meriwether Lewis 299 Wild Animals of the West 302 Buffalo Dance in the Rocky Mountains 304 The Crow Village 307 Indian Dog Dance 309 Buffalo Hunting 311 Indian Burial Ground 314 John C. Fremont 320 The Frontier of Missouri at the Pe- ") RiOD OF Fremont's Expedition . . / 321 Fort on the Western Border .... 326 Indian Attack on Fremont's Party . . 327 Crossing the Plains in Wagons . . . 328 The Successor to the Wagon Train . 329 Burial Ground of the Delawakes on "i the Ohio J 335 Rev. Christian Frederick Post . . . 339 Attacked by Indians While Holding! Religious Service / 342 The Circuit-Rider on Duty 343 A Night in the Great Religious Re- ") viVAL IN Kentucky in 1800 . . . . j 346 Going to Church 348 page. Primitive Methods — Preaching in a"» Tobacco Barn j 353 Rev. James Axley 356 Rev. Elisha W. Bowman 358 Peter Cartwright 399 Rev. Peter Akers 404 Rev. Ciiauncey Hobart 412 An Implement of Home Industry in \ Pioneer Days j 430 A Pioneer School-Teacher— "Board- \ iNG Among the Scholars" . . . . j 432 The School Ma'am on Duty — Early \ Days in Mississippi j 433 A Family Singing Psalms 437 The Frontier Teacher and his School 449 The Mountain School ....... 451 The Young Man With the Greasy "i Pack of Cards j 464 Carrying the Mail 466 The Boy of the Frontier Period . . 467 The Colored Overseer — One of his \ Subjects ' j 470 The Typical Rural Combination- Church, School-House, and Cem- etery J 472 Henry Clay 484 Lucretia Hart Clay 485 Henry Clay Addressing the U. S. Senate 488 Ashland— Henry Clay's Residence . . 490 Andrew Jackson (Portrait) .... 491 Andrew Jackson's Birth-Place . . . 492 W^EATHERSFORD AND GENERAL JaCKSON . 496 Andrew Jackson 498 Hermitage — Andrew Jackson's Home . 499 William Henry Harrison 500 Fort Wayne in 1812 502 Tecumseh 504 Tippecanoe Battle-Ground 506 Maguaga Battle-Ground 507 Home of Joseph Hamilton Daviess . . 510 Humphrey Marshall 513 Office of the "Kentucky Gazette,'" 17S7 — THE First Printing-House in Kentucky J 517 Frankfort, Kentucky' 519 Sam. Houston— From a Photograph \ Taken in 1860 / 522 Sam. Houston— From a Painting . . . 523 Discussing the Plan of the San An- "t TONio Campaign j 526 Fall of the Alamo 529 Remnant of the Old Fort of the Alamo 530 David Crockett 531 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XVU PAGE. Monument Erected to the Heroes ) OF the Alamo i 532 Mexicans at a Period of Peace . . . 533 A Mexican Home 534 Plan of Battle-Ground of San Jacinto 535 Thomas H. Benton 539 Li<:wis Cass 543 Lewis Cass's Boyhood Home in NewI Hampshiue / 545 Pioneer Home in North Michigan . . 547 Thomas Corwin 550 George D. Prentice 5G0 Birth-Place of George D. Prentice, 1 AS it Stood in 183S / 563 S. S. Prentiss 580 View of the Mississippi at Natchez, \ 1808 J 582 Early Home of S. S. Prentiss — Port- ) LAND, Maine i 585 ViCKSiiURG, Mississippi 588 A Bayou on the Mississippi 591 A Mississippi Kiver Boat 593 PAGE. Cotton-Picking in Mississippi in the"! Early Days / 600 Over the National Road— the Fore- runner OF the Stage-Coach and Railway Train J 625 Scene on the Wilderness Road of a 1 Recent Period / 626 The Tavern 628 The Keel-Boat and Boatmen .... 631 The Shooting-Match 633 View of a Settlement in the Pineries 637 Silently and in the Night They Stole \ Away / 639 Street in New Orleans 641 A House in the Swamp Districts of) Louisiana J 642 "Johnny Appleseed" 646 '■The Tribes of the Heathen are"! Bound About Your Doohs, and a I Devouring Flame Followeth Af- | TER Them" J 647 "Hebe's Your Primitive Christian" . 648 INTRODUCTION. THE VALLEY. THE VALLEY DEFINED. THE GREAT RIVER, ITS BEAUTY AND MAJESTY. ITS LORDLY TRIBUTA- RIES.-: THE DELTA. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE VALLEY. THE GREAT LAKES. bET US first look at the theatre of the events we are to here chronicle. Nature has defined it by stupendous boundary walls — the Appalachian Chain on the east, the Great Lakes on the north, the Eocky Mountains on the west— be- tween these lies an infinite variety of landscape — grim sage-desert, fruitful oasis, il- limitable prairies. Here opulent cities sparkling on its bosom, there majestic rivers flowing through wide valleys ; here, again, inland seas bearing a commerce greater than that of all the maritime ancients combined. A valley larger than all Europe, save Sweden and Norway — twenty-three degrees of latitude, thirty of longitude, two million, four hundred and fifty-five thousand square miles of territory — the Great West. Not quite in the centre of this vast area — nearer the eastern than the western wall — a river, the most striking topographical feature of the globe, rolls its majestic tide. Away up in the Minnesota highlands, seventeen hundred feet above sea level, fed by clear springs and curtained by wild rice, lies a beautiful lake — Itasca. The rivulet that flows from it enters soon upon wide swelling prairies, a feast to the eyes. Fields of wheat and barley nod upon its banks, and sweep away far as eye can reach. On it flows, playing "among the flowers of a meadow, watering a garden, or turn- ing a mill." It passes through many lakes, and exacts tribute from all. Hundreds of tributary streauLs flow in from north, east and west. It is already a lordly river when it reaches Minneapolis, three hundred miles below. There it shoots headlong into the great chasm of St. Anthonj', turning the wheels and spindles of a city of one hundred and sixty-five thousand inhabitants. Emerging, it flows with more dig- nity, and does not again indulge in such mad antics. Henceforth to the Gulf navies 33 34 INTRODUCTION. may ride upon it — it separates sovereign States — it is in truth the Mississippi — "Father of Waters." Through the mouths of its great affluents the waters of many hundreds of smaller streams, not a few of which are navigable, are poured into it. The traveler is in sight of the spires of St. Louis when a sound salutes his ears; it scarcely seems the din of tratfic, and is not, for soon he perceives the rush of the Pekitanoni, or Missouri (muddy water), which leaps upon the quiet Mississippi as if it would efface it, and throws its turbid,boiling current, laden with uprooted trees and other debris, quite to the opposite shore. The parent river shrinks away from it; even at St. Louis, sixteen miles below, the currents of the two rivers are still distinct, the steel-blue waters of the Mississippi sweeping the eastern shore, and the boiling current of the Missouri the western — two rivers flowing side by side. Let us study briefly this muddy torrent — the Missouri. If we follow its tortuous course northwest two thousand, nine hundred and eight miles, we shall find its head-waters amid the solemn peaks of the Rocky Mountains, on the western edge of Montana. Its principal northern tributary draws its supplies almost wholly from British territory. Its three main southern affluents rise among the massive ranges that wall in the South Pass in western Wyoming. In its valley are five hundred and eighteen thousand square miles of fertile land. It is three thou- sand feet wide at its mouth, and discharges into the Mississippi one hundred and twenty thousand cubic feet of water every second. A hundred or more miles below St. Louis, at Cairo, another tremendous bodj^ of water pours into the now turbid river — the Ohio — the h'Oyo, or La Belle Riviere of the early voyagers. From the summits of the Blue Ridge, overlooking the Atlantic slope, from the coal and oil measures of Pennsylvania, and the water-shed of the Great Lakes, these waters have been gathered over an area of two hundred and four- teen thousand square miles, rich in mineral and agricultural products, one-half as yet undeveloped. Included in its basin are six great tributary river valleys — the Tennessee, Cumberland, Wabash, Great Kanawha, Alleghany and Monongahela. From this point, and indeed from St. Louis, the river is known as the Lower Mis- sissippi, and its physical characteristics differ widely from those exhibited above. Its valley is from twenty to fifty miles wide, and composed of loose, alluvial soil, through which the great river winds and twists like an immense serpent, its folds at times almost overlapping. Interminable swamps, nourishing a luxuriant semi- tropical vegetation, cover the face of the country. Groves of cottonwood and cy- press fringe its banks, their branches clothed with Spanish moss which floats in pen- INTRODUCTION. 35 dulous, silvery veils along the green walls, and significantly styled the "Curtains of Death." Here and there a ragged, water-eroded bluff rises, crowned perhaps by a town, or some well-ordered plantation, whose fine mansion with its lawn and gar- dens is flanked by rows of whitewashed cottages, called "The People's Quarters; "but these are incidents — the general landscape, as in the diiy of the first discoverers, is that of wilderness and morass. Countless tributaries join this river, without to appearance increasing its volume. The Arkansas, the first of importance below the Ohio, is one thousand five hundred and fourteen miles long, and draws its waters from the eternal snows of Pike's Peak and its congeners in Colorado, ten thousand feet above sea level. This tributary is fifteen hundred feet wide at its mouth, and drains an area of one hundred and eighty- nine thousand miles. Next below, on the west, conies in the Red River, twelve hun- dred miles long, rising among the foot-hills of the Rocky Mountains in Texas, only two thousand four hundred and fifty feet above the tide. This stream has an area of ninety seven thousand square miles. The Yazoo, which enters from the east, is a sluggish stream; in its course of five hundred miles, having a fall of but two hundred and ten feet. In time of flood, the Father of Waters is in places thirty miles wide. Nearing the Gulf it meets, fifty miles inland, a series of swamps, lakes and bayous, through which, imperceptibly, the mass of its waters is drained into the sea ; but it has beside several distinct mouths forming a delta of nineteen thousand four hundred and fifty square miles. Its principal mouth is two thousand four hundred and seventy feet wide, and pours into the Gulf six hundred and seventy-five thousand cubic feet of water every second. The navigable waters of this river form a highway nine thousand miles in extent — more than one-third the circumference of the globe. "The Sources of the Upper Mississippi," says Foster, "are among the great for- ests of conifers, white birches and aspens — subarctic types — which continue north, but dwarfed in stature, until the limits of arborescent vegetation are reached ; and its mouth is in the region of the orange, the magnolia, and even the palm — thus ap- proaching the verge of tropical forms." Near the head of the valley on its eastern side is the group of gigantic lakes whose only outlet is the majestic St. Lawrence, which carries their waters into the Atlantic. They occupy nearly a hundred thousand square miles, and contain more than one- half of all the fresh water on the globe. The level of Lake Superior, the grandest of the group, is six hundred and three feet above that of the sea; Michigan and 30 INTRODUCTION. Huron are twenty-five feet lower; Erie is thirteen feet below their level, and On- tario, by the grand cataract and rapids of Niagara, is brought to a still lower descent of three hundred and thirty-three feet. Such was the vast territory wdiich the pioneers discovered, conquered, settled and cultivated ; it will now be our task to tell the story of their achievements , CHAPTER I. THE LANCE. SHALL SPAIN HAVE THE VALLEY? THE SPANIARD OF THE YEAR loOO. HIS ROSEATE DREAMS. JUAN PONCE DE LEON. FOUN- TAINS OF YOUTH AND MOUNTAINS OF GOLD. A STEP FROxM THE QUIXOTIC TO THE SATAKIC. DE AYLLON. PAMPHILO DE NARVAEZ. DE SOTO IN FLORIDA. ALVAR NUNEZ CABACCA DE VACA. DON VASCO PORCALLO DE FIGUEROA. P.ALTAZAR GALLEGOS. JUAN ORTIZ. INDIAN MASSACRES AND REPRISALS. LOST IN A M'ONDERLAND. STORMING A WALLED CITY. HAIL OF ARROWS. SWORD AND SHIELD TRIUMPHANT. TOWARD THE MOUNTAIN OP GOLD A WEARY WAY. THE MISSISSIPPI DISCOVERED. CIRCUIT OF THE ARKANSAS AND RED. DKATH OF THE GREAT LEADER. THE contrast is most striking between the Spaniard of to-day and the Spaniard of three hundred years ago. Now he is indolent, often apathetic, grave, re- served, and whatever his inward capacit}^ of passion or of exertion, an inefficient and idle man. But in those old days the Spanish race was inspired with a wild, four-fold energy of avarice, religion, ambition and adventure, which swept them round and round the world in a long and bloody storm of conquest, conversion and slaughter, gained them their vast colonial realms and wealth, and unfolded a panorama of achievements, miseries, cruelties and crimes whose representations, in the antique wood-cuts of De Bry, are horrible to look upon. Governor Galvano quaintly says, speaking of the craze which fell upon Spain in consequence of the early American discoveries, that they "were ready to leap into the sea to swim, if it had been pos- sible, into those new-found parts." There is not stronger or stranger exemplification of the steady obstinacy with which this insane chase after riches and glory was pursued than the long chapter of disas- trous Spanish inroads upon the territory of the southern half of the United States, then called Florida, which took place between 1512 and the foundation of St. Augustine in 1565. 37 38 THE SPANIARD OF THE YEAR 1500. The earliest European name associated with the southern coast of the United States is that of Juan Ponce de Leon, a brave old warrior, whose early manhood had been passed in hunting the Moors from Granada, and in acquiring that inflexibility of purpose and hardiness of character which enabled him to play his distinguished part 1,1 liiii. Hi 'i||i|fi[!:i jifii LOUIS XIV. as a conqueror in the New World. Sailing with Columbus on his second voyage, spending most of his remaining life in the West Indies, subjugating Porto Rico, where he ruled with an iron sway as governor, superseded in his command, thirsting ever for gold and glory, and yearning for a renewed life in which to enjoy the fruits PONCE DE LEON S DREAM. 39 of his valor, he turned his prow to the northward, in search of the hmd Avhere the crystal waters of the fountain of youth washed those yellow sands of price, the dis- covery and possession of which would give the happy voyager the realization of the twin dream of Alchemy — gold and immortality. Fables were the faith of the time. PONCK DE LEON. Could credulity cherish a wilder phantasy than the Genoese mariners? Yet this had been fulfilled. Miffht not De Leon's, too? So the stout old cavalier took his way to the north. Aged Indians had told him that in that direction lay the objects of his search. His many fights had left him full of wounds and scars; age was bending 40 r>E AYLLON S TREACHEKY. his manly form ; weakness was creeping on apace. No matter, for the Fountain shall give him immortal youth, and with it health and beauty. Land was made Palm Sunday — Pascua Florida — 1512, near St. Augustine. Beau- tiful enough for the shore of the immortals was this which now rose before his eyes, covered with rich greensward, dappled with flowers of unnumbered dyes, over- shadowed by giant trees clad with summer leaves, glorious with rainbow garniture of tropic blossoms, over which hung long pendulous veils as if of silver tissue. Softly came the land breeze freighted with the breath of flowers, upon that triumphal Sab- bath morning, and it came — so thought the Spaniard — straight from that fabled spring, and with the fever of excitement in his veins, and the throb of rapture at his heart, "Florida," he cried, "is it not the land of flowers !" In honor of the festival, and in honor of the blossom-clad coast, he named a name which it bears to this day. But alas for the hojDcs of Ponce de Leon ! It was no morning land of immortality for him, save as the name he bestowed preserves for us and after-times the dim shadow of his antique renown. L^pon his second voyage, a poisonous arrow from an Indian's bow brought him his message of doom. Hastening to Cuba he breathed his last, leaving his Flower-land a fatal legacy to Spain for many a sad year to come. In those old days of Spanish rule, there was but one step from the Quixotic to the Satanic, and that step was taken by Vasquez de Ay 11 on, the next adventurer whose keels furrowed the waves of our coast. This monster came for slaves to work the mines of the West Indies, where the atrocities of the Spaniards had in less than thirty years well-nigh exterminated a numerous and happy people. Reaching the coast of South Carolina, De Ayllon entered a river, called in honor of the captain who discovered it, the Jordan. Landing on a pleasant shore, which the natives called Chicora — Mocking-bird — the}' were hospitably welcomed and enter- tained. But the Christian white man's return for the red heathen's courtesy was be- trayal, outrage and death. Having laid in his supplies, De Ayllon invited the In- dians aboard his vessels, an invitation gladly accepted by the unsuspecting red men. While crowds of them were below, the hatches were closed, all sail made, and away over the blue waters sped the winged monsters with their prey. But did not that wild, despairing cry from ship and shore, of husbands and wives, parents and chil- dren, thus ruthlessly torn from each other, reach the ear of God? One of the ships foundered, and all on board perished. The remaining Indians refused food, and thus died. The aborigines of this country could not be reduced to slavery. PAMPHILO DE XARVAEZ MEETS CORTEZ. 41 Again De Ayllon came with three vessels and many men to conquer Chicora. The natives masked their pm'pose of revenge, received him kindly, lulled his suspicions into fatal security, and he dreamed the goodly land already his own. They made a great feast for their guests some leagues in the interior. Two hundred of De Ayllon' s men attended, he with a small party remaining to guard the ships. Three days the banquet lasted. The third night the Indians arose and smote their treacherous in- vaders and slew them, so that not one of the two hundred was left to tell the hor- rible tale to his companions on the beach. But the Indians themselves bore the ti- dings, for they fell upon the guard, killed some, and wounded others, so that but a handful reached their ships and bore away for St. Domino-o. De Ayllon himself seems to have died, either of his wounds, or shame, or both, at the port in Chicora. A few years later Pamphilo de Narvaez, in command of a splendid armament, undertook the subjugation of Florida. At an earlier date he had been sent by the governor of Cuba to arrest the victorious progress of Hernando Cortez in Mexico. Losing an eye, and failing in the attempt, he was conducted to the pres- ence of Cortez, whom he complimented by in- forming him that he must be a remarkable man, as he had succeeded in vanquishing him. "That," replied the redoubtable conqueror of the Montezumas, "is the least thing I have done in Mexico." Landing in Tampa Bay, April 12th, 1528, with four hundred men and forty-five horses, Narvaez immediately dispatched his vessels to Cuba for fresh supplies, pay- ing no regard to the prudent entreaties of the treasurer of the expedition, Alvar Nunez. They soon roused the relentless hostility of the valient Seminoles by their gratuitous barbarities, and every rood of their toilsome march, through tangled for- ests and endless quagmires, was rendered doubly difficult by ambuscades and attacks. Inspirited, however, by the stories of some captives acting as guides, to the effect that in Appalache they would find a fertile province abounding with gold, the object of their eager quest, they urged their way onward. On reaching the land of promise. CORTEZ. 42 NARVAEZ'S ILL-STARRED EXPEDITION. Nai^vaez, who had pictured to himself another Mexico, was bitterly undeceived, find- ing only a rude village of two hundred and fifty cabins. They took possession un- opposed, for the inhabitants had fled to the woods. Twenty-five days were passed here ; but the army, now more clamorous for bread than for gold, learning that the sea lay nine days' march to the southward, bent its weary steps toward the village of Aute, where, it was said, were plenty of provisions and a harmless people. Their path, however, was beset by yet greater natural obstacles, and by the implacable fury of the savages. At length reaching Aute, not far from the present St. Marks, they found the village burned b}^ the retreating inhabitants, but esteemed the discovery of a plentiful supply of maize ample compensation. What was to be done? Their hopes of conquest and treasure were gone; to re- main in the land was impossible ; to traverse the shore in search of their ships might be fruitless, and would expose them to the ferocity of the Indians. Many of their horses were slain ; so were not a few of their bravest companions. A day's march brought them to the banks of the river which widened into a bay. Here they resolved to build them such boats as they might, and in them seek their ships, or attempt to return to Cuba. Vigorously they plied their work; and at length five frail barks were launched, in each of which, on the 20th of September, 1528, were crowded from forty to fifty miserable souls; crowded so that the gun- wales were almost even with the water. Thus along that tropic shore they hoped to coast in the season of storms. Narvaez, remaining one day in one of his boats with a sailor and a sick page as a guard, while his crew went ashore to pillage for food, was driven out to sea by a tempest and never heard of more. The only survivors of this ill-starred expedition were Alvar Nunez and four companions, who, after incred- ible wanderings along the northern shore of the Gulf of Mexico, westward through Texas to the Eocky Mountains, and thence to Mexico, exposed to every species of hardship and peril — passing from tribe to tribe of Indians, sometimes starved as slaves, sometimes, we may believe, worshipped as demi-gods — in 1537, nearly ten years from the time of their sailing, finally reached Spain. In 1537, there appeared at the court of Charles V. a renowned captain, adorned with laurels from the conquest of Peru, and enriched by 180,000 golden crowns, his share of the plundered treasure of Atahualpa. A gentleman by four descents, and therefore entitled to membership of the noble order of Santiago, he had, never- theless, begun life as a private soldier of fortune, his sword and target his only pos- session. And thus far fortune and deeds of prowess had won him great success. CHARACTER OF DE SOTO. 43 His lance was said to have been equal to any ten in the army of Pizarro. In the saddle his match was not to be found. Prudent in counsel as he was brave in field, he was no less knightly in denouncing what he esteemed the wrong— boldly with- standing his commander to the face, and charging home upon him the Avickedness as well as bad policy of the Inca's murder. He was proud, determined and reserved; as the Portuguese narrator describes him, "a sterne man and of few words; though he was glad to sift and know the opinion of all men, yet, after he had delivered his owne, he would not be J#*^^it contraried. ' ' A published /ac simile of his signature, a large and strong autograph, as by a powerful hand more used to wield sword and spear than the pen of the writer, corres- ponds well with his stately and haughty character. Although not naturally liberal, he was profuse and magnificent in his expenditure in this his first appearance at court, and was attended by a troop of gal- lant knights who had fought under him in Peru, and had brought back each a fortune from the treasure of the Incas. Luis de Moscoso de Al- varado, John Danusco, and a long list of others, with names equally claiming attention, did their histo- ries come within our design, spent their wealth, acquired in soldierly wise, upon soldier's luxuries, mettled barbs and splendid armor ; but Hernando de Soto surpassed in magnificence all the courtiers of the Emperor. Only five and thirty years of age, tall, handsome, commanding in presence and action, was it marvelous that Donna Isabella de Bobadilla, though the daughter of the very earl under whose banner he had first enlisted in the ranks, one of the fairest ladies of Spain, of one of the proudest and most powerful families, COr.UMBUS. 44 MARRIAGE OF DE SOTO. should 3'iekl her heart to the irresistible soldier? So fortune and his merit won him his best — alas, that it was also his latest boon! — a loving, prudent and faithful wife. And now could he not rest in that pleasant palace at Seville, and buy him corn- fields and vineyards and olive plantations, and become a great lord? With houses and lands, and servants, friends and honor, great connections, and a good and noble wife, had he not wherewith to be content? But when did the lust of fame, or power, or gold, ever allow a man to be content? Here they united their spells, and De Soto must find new worlds to conquer. Find them he did — but finding and acquiring are two things. So he sought for and obtained the magnificent appointment of captain- general for life of Cuba, Adelantado (civil and military governor) of Florida; and a marquisate of thirty leagues by fifteen, in any part of the to-be-conquered country. He was to undertake the conquest at his own expense, and to pay to the crown one-fifth of the treasure found. Then came the wonderful story of Alvar Nunez Cabacca de Vaca, like an additional demoniac spell, to tempt this goodly knight. To be sure, the treas- urer of Narvaez brought home no treasure ; but he threw out dark hints of the great wealth of the land he had explored, and had intended to apply for the very adelantadoship which De Soto had obtained. In default of this, he asked and received the government of La Plata. The imagination of De Soto, and of Spain, took new fire. The triumphs and trophies of Cortez and Pizarro should be as nothing to his; for what were Mexico and Peru to Florida ! Poor Ponce de Leon ! thy fatal legacy hath fallen to another heir ! Florida at that day included all the country lying north of Mexico, extending upon its eastern coast from Key West to the banks of Newfoundland ; so that it embraced what we know as the United States of America. Need we be sad that it was a woe- ful heritage to the sons of Spain? This land was held in reserve for the scions of a nobler stock than Charles V. governed, and for a sublimer civilization than Castile and Aragon M^ei-e able to bestow upon the world. In fourteen months the armament was ready to weigh anchor. Nine hundred and fifty men, the best blood and chivalry of Spain, gay young knights thirsting for dis- HEKNANJJO DE SOTO. GLOOM OF THE CYPRESS. 46 THE FLEET SAILS FOR CUBA. tinction and wealth, well-tried warriors from the fields of Africa and Peru, stout men at arms, halberdiers, cross-bow men and arquebusiers — more came than the general could take. Men sold their patrimonial acres to furnish themselves for the cam- paign. One disposed of 60,000 reals* of rent; one of a town of vassals; Baltazar de Gallagos, of "houses and vineyards, and rent corne, and ninetie rankes of Olive trees and the Xarafe of Siuil." The usual difficulty in fitting out an expedition to well- known and rich countries, was to find men. De Soto, bound to an unknown wilder- ness, was unable to find vessels for the multitude of volunteers, and many of those who had sold their estates for the sake of joining him, unable to find room on board the fleet, were forced to stay behind. Amid the braying of trumpets and the roar of artillery, the vivas of the beholders and the shouts of the campaigners, the fleet of ten sail left the port of San Lucar de Barrameda, April 6th, 1538. They reached Cuba about the last of Ma}-, and here De Soto spent a year in arganizing the government, and making preparations for his enterprise. Cuba was noted for its noble breed of horses, wherewith our gay cavaliers supplied themselves amply; and byway of putting themselves in trim for the work before them, spent much time in tournaments and bull-fights. The inhabitants of the island, well-nigh crazed by the excitement and brave show, flocked in throngs to the standard of De Soto. At their head was Don Vasco Porcallo de Figueroa, a doughty old warrior who had seen severe service in many parts of the world, and had now settled down as a wealthy proprietor in the Queen of the Antilles. As the horse smelleth the battle from afar, so did this veteran. To show him due honor, the Adelantado appointed him his lieutenant-general. The Portuguese, narrator states that Don Yasco's object was not glory, but Indians, whom he desii^ed to obtain in order to supply the places of those whom toil and cruelty had slain in his mines and upon his estates. This purpose seems, at least, consonant with the character of a Spanish Cuban proprietor; and that his treatment of his slaves was such as to require re-inforcement in their numbers, may appear from a quaint old story of his steward. This steward, it seems, discovered that certain of the Indian slaves, as was the sad custom of their race, had agreed to meet at an appointed place and kill themselves to escape from their tormenting task- masters. So he repaired with a cudgel to the rendezvous, and when the miserable heathen had assembled, suddenly stepped among them and told them that they could * Real, a Spanish silver coin, worth an eighth of a dollar. 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