Making a Bulb-Garden 
 
 f^rr 
 
 The GountrysideHandBooks 
 
 THE COUNTRYSIDE PRESS 
 
 HARRISBURO, PA. 
 
Copyright]^". 
 
 COPYRIGHT DEPOSn^ 
 
o 
 
HOW TO MAKE A 
 BULB -GARDEN 
 
THE COUNTRYSIDE PRESS 
 
 BOOK PUBLISHERS 
 
 HARRISBURG, PA. 
 
Tulips in the garden border 
 
HOW TO MAKE A 
 BULB-GARDEN 
 
 ILLUSTRATED AND WITH 
 PLANTING TABLES 
 
 HARRISBURG, PA. 
 THE COUNTRYSIDE PRESS 
 
 1915 
 
^^^ 
 
 <b^^A 
 
 Copyright, 1909, 1910, 1912, 1913, by 
 THE SUBURBAN PRESS 
 
 Copyright, 1915, by 
 THE COUNTRYSIDE PRESS 
 
 ©C1.A416442 
 
TABLE OP CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Introduction ^ 
 
 Good Named Bulbs 1^ 
 
 Where to Plant 14 
 
 Naturalizing Bulbs 1^ 
 
 Early Bloomers 18 
 
 Spring Beginnings 20 
 
 The Cheerful Cannas 2- 
 
 Old-fashioned Dahlias 23 
 
 The Gladioli 26 
 
 How TO Plant 29 
 
 Favorite Varieties 30 
 
 The Fragrant Tuberose 33 
 
 The Elephant's Ear 34 
 
 Tigridias 34 
 
 Fall-planted Bulbs 35 
 
 Tulips for Display 36 
 
 Formal Beds 38 
 
 Depths to Plant 42 
 
 Time to Plant 43 
 
 Select Lists 44 
 
 Exhibition Hyacinths 44 
 
 Single Early Tulips 46 
 
 Double Tulips 47 
 
 Late Tulips 47 
 
 Darwin Tulips 48 
 
 Narcissi 49 
 
 Jonquils ^^ 
 
 Polyanthus Narcissi 50 
 
 Hyacinths ^^ 
 
 Lilies to the Front 51 
 
 The Madonna Lily 52 
 
 Other Good Lilies 55 
 
 Some "Near" Lilies 56 
 
 Cultural Requirements 58 
 
 A Special Bulb-garden 58 
 
 Miscellaneous Bulbs 59 
 
 Several Good Qualities 61 
 
 Paths and Beds 62 
 
 Details of Planting 64 
 
 Planting Tables 66-73 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 THERE have been compiled, within the covers 
 of this Uttle book, the essential things which 
 the amateur should know in connection with 
 obtaining the best results from the planting of bulbs. 
 Much of this material has appeared previously in 
 Suburban Life, but the condensed form in which it 
 is now published will render it still more valuable, 
 ' as all but the essential facts have been eliminated. 
 
 Both spring-flowering and summer-blooming 
 bulbs are included, and plain, concise directions 
 given for their treatment — directions which are 
 easily followed by one even without any previous 
 experience in gardening. 
 
 This little book is made possible by the permission 
 of The Suburban Press, and is offered to the garden- 
 lover in the hope it may prove a valuable handbook 
 on the subject of bulb-planting. 
 
 THE PUBLISHERS. 
 
 (9) 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB -GARDEN 
 
 FIRST in all the garden list for the roaming 
 American suburbanite stand the hardy bulbs — 
 the "Dutch bulbs," as they are often called 
 because so many of them are produced in Holland. 
 They are hardy and lusty, prompt and ready, 
 incomparably showy, and not expensive. Does the 
 new lease-holder in a suburb, or even one in a city, 
 who has a bit of garden, want to have something for 
 immediate effect? — something to make his garden 
 pretty and home-like the very first spring? The 
 final reply to all his questions is tulips. Or at most 
 it is tulips and crocuses and narcissi and a few other 
 Dutch bulbs. 
 
 The bulbous plants — tulip, hyacinth, narcissus, 
 crocus, snowdrop, etc., — produce the earliest showy 
 flowers outdoors in the spring, and October is the 
 month in which to prepare for this floral display. 
 There are many ways that they can be used with 
 telling effect, such as borders to walks, long, narrow 
 beds around the house next to the foundation, beds 
 in the lawn, as clumps in the hardy border or at 
 the front of plantations of shrubbery, or, in the case 
 of the daffodils or narcissi, snowdrops, crpcuses and 
 similar bulbs, for naturalizing in the lawn or open 
 woodland. 
 
 (11) 
 
12 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 GOOD NAMED BULBS 
 
 To insure that the display will he good, buy the 
 best bulbs that can be secured, and buy named 
 varieties. Mixed lots of many kinds may be bought, 
 but they have the distinct disadvantage of present- 
 ing, when in bloom, a heterogeneous mass of colors 
 which is not wanted, particularly in the case where 
 they are used for bedding purposes. Another draw- 
 back to mixed lots is that they will not all bloom at 
 the same time. When named varieties are bought, 
 the exact shades of colors wanted for any particu- 
 lar bed can be selected, in varieties that will bloom 
 at the same time. These can be picked from any of 
 the bulb merchants' catalogues, for most of them 
 indicate the comparative blooming date of each 
 variety. 
 
 It is important that some attention be given this 
 detail, otherwise disappointment is sure to follow 
 next spring, when the flowers are in bloom. 
 
 One spring I walked over the grounds of a large 
 public institution that had extensive bulb-plantings, 
 and to which no attention had been paid as to 
 the flowering season of the varieties in each bed. 
 There were beds of hyacinths in which part were in 
 full bloom, while in the balance of the bed the flower- 
 spikes had just come through the ground. When the 
 second lot was in full bloom, the first to bloom had 
 turned brown and were exceedingly unsightly, — a 
 condition that could have been avoided by a little 
 careful selection on the part of the gardener. 
 
Dutch hyacinths in a set bed 
 
14 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 If you have taken pains to get varieties that 
 bloom at the same time, you may be disappointed 
 in their not blooming at the same time, if careless 
 planting methods are adopted. In order that the 
 bulbs will bloom at the same time, they must all 
 be planted at the same depth. 
 
 WHERE TO PLANT 
 
 All of the spring-flowering bulbs may be planted 
 in almost any situation about the grounds, even 
 though it be quite shaded, and they will bloom; but 
 for the most of them a sunny situation is to be pre- 
 ferred. The daffodils, on the other hand, prefer a 
 partially shaded situation, — not too dense a shade, 
 the force of the rays of the sun need only be broken. 
 Ideal locations for naturalizing the daffodils are in 
 orchards, along the banks of ponds and streams, and 
 among the shrubbery, while the crocus and snow- 
 drop find a congenial place in the lawn. 
 
 Almost any soil that is rich will produce good 
 spikes of flowers from good bulbs. You must buy 
 good bulbs to get good spikes, for the number of 
 flowers is entirely controlled by the culture they 
 received in the bulb-gardens. The tulips and hya- 
 cinths prefer a well-drained and slightly sandy soil, 
 while the daffodils and other narcissi succeed better 
 in a rather heavy soil. 
 
 Many of the bulb catalogues have a little dia- 
 gram that tells at a glance at what depth to plant 
 the different kinds of bulbs. Detailed information 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 15 
 
 about this can also be secured from the planting 
 table in the back part of this book. 
 
 That the bulbs may make the best possible 
 growth, the soil should be rich; but if manure must 
 be added just previous to planting, as will be neces- 
 sary if the beds have contained flowering plants 
 during the summer, spade the manure in deep enough 
 so that it will not come in contact with the bulbs. 
 
 
 
 Crocuses in the grass 
 
16 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 The best way to make a jjulb-bed, especially where 
 manure must be added, is to dig it out an inch deeper 
 than the required depth of planting. Spade in the 
 manure, stirring the soil to the depth of about four- 
 teen inches below the original surface of the soil, level- 
 ing it off carefully; or, if the surface of the bed when 
 completed is to be crowned, crown this surface and 
 spread half an inch of sand over it. Then set the 
 bulbs where they are to grow, and cover them with 
 the soil taken out. The manure is mixed with the 
 soil under the sand, but that which is on top does 
 not contain any. 
 
 A quicker method is that of making holes with 
 a dibble; but, if this is done, there is always an 
 uncertainty of not getting them all at the same 
 depth, and care must be taken that the bulb is not 
 ''hung" in the hole; that is, the hole gets too deep and 
 there is a space below the base of the bulb. To avoid 
 this, fill the bottom of the hole with sand, or fine soil, 
 and press the bulb into it to the required depth. 
 
 A long, narrow trowel is better than a dibble, but 
 be sure of getting the holes all dug the same depth. 
 The best plan is to dig all the holes before planting 
 any of the bulbs. 
 
 NATURALIZING BULBS 
 
 By ''naturalizing" bulbs is meant the planting of 
 them in out-of-the-way places, where the grass is 
 not mowed closely, amongst the shrubs and peren- 
 nials, where they will not be disturbed, and where 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 17 
 
 they can continue to grow and bloom year after 
 year just as if Nature had placed them there, or in 
 clumps about the lawn. In this way they virtually 
 become "wild" flowers, and, like other wild flowers, 
 repeat their message of joy each spring. 
 
 For naturaUzing bulbs, planting with a dibble 
 is necessary, for only one bulb is planted at a time. 
 
 Poet's narcissus along a stream-bank 
 
18 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 The best way to distribute bulbs in a sod is to take 
 several in the hand and throw them at the locality 
 where they are wanted, giving them a whirling 
 motion as they leave the hand; this will prevent the 
 bulbs from being planted in straight lines or geo- 
 metrical forms, if each is planted where it falls. 
 
 The narcissi and daffodils are the best of the 
 larger-flowering bulbs for naturalizing, and they 
 cost from one dollar a hundred up, according to 
 the variety bought. The cheapest form is one of 
 the varieties of the poet's narcissus, Recurvis. It 
 costs only about one dollar a hundred, and Ornatus, 
 another good variety, can be had for a dollar and a 
 half. Many kinds may be secured for two to three 
 dollars a hundred. Emperor is one of the best, 
 costing, in lots of a hundred or more, only about 
 three cents apiece, and Empress is another excellent 
 one for the same price. 
 
 EARLY BLOOMERS 
 
 In our desire for those flowers which, by their size 
 and color, make the garden brilliant in early spring, 
 we are apt to overlook the smaller kinds, which really 
 bring to us the first indication that Nature is awak- 
 ing from her winter sleep. 
 
 Among these is the snowdrop, with its dainty 
 bells of pure white, which sometimes can be found 
 peeping through a light covering of snow. This is 
 a delightful flower for edging the beds of the larger 
 bulbs, and, with the charming blue and white bells 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 19 
 
 of the chionodoxa, or glory-of-the-snow, makes a 
 most happy combination. 
 
 The crocus, too, is a flower which should be 
 grown in all bulb-gardens, and can be used with 
 good effect in solid beds, mixed with other bulbs, or 
 naturalized in the lawn. For this use, turn up a 
 small piece of sod with a trowel and place the bulbs 
 under it. They will bloom and be out of the way 
 when it is time to use the lawn mower. 
 
 Tulips and hyacinths are the best of the bulbous 
 plants for bedding, and, of the two, the tulip has 
 always been the more satisfactory. 
 
 Unnamed hyacinths, mixed as to varieties, but 
 all of one color, may be had for five or six dollars a 
 hundred, but the best bedding hyacinths, named so 
 that you know 
 just w^hat the 
 shade of blue, pink 
 or other color is, 
 can be purchased 
 for six to eight or 
 nine dollars a 
 hundred. These 
 are to be preferred, 
 as better color 
 combinations can 
 be made with 
 them. 
 
 For a bed about 
 7 feet long and 
 
 3^ feet wide, The dainty snowdrop 
 
20 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 ninety-eight hyacinths will be needed. An oval 
 bed 11x8 will need about three hundred bulbs. 
 
 The first tulips to come into bloom are the Due 
 Van Thols, followed by the common bedding tulips, 
 and the season is finished by the Cottage Garden and 
 Darwin tulips. 
 
 A circular bed of tulips, 6 feet in diameter, will 
 need about three hundred bulbs, if planted 4 inches 
 apart; a bed 6 feet square will need 375 bulbs. Of 
 the common bedding tulips, I prefer Keizerkroon, a 
 tulip of medium height, 15 to 18 inches, with a large, 
 crimson-scarlet flower edged with yellow. They cost 
 only about two and one-half dollars a hundred, and 
 they make a beautiful display. 
 
 SPRING BEGINNINGS 
 
 The main plantings of Dutch bulbs are made in 
 October or November, but as it is always easier to 
 begin gardening in the spring season, we will adopt 
 that order for the present book. There are a number 
 of bulbous plants which may be planted at any time 
 in May after the danger of frosts has passed, and 
 which will give satisfactory returns as bedding plants 
 or in the way of cut-flowers. The bulbs are cheap; 
 they may be lifted in the fall, and stored over winter 
 and planted out the following summer, and there 
 will be more bulbs to plant the second year because 
 of the natural increase. 
 
 The most commonly used bulbous plant for 
 summer decoration is the canna, which is easily 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 21 
 
 grown, produces good mass effects, even when not in 
 flower, and is inexpensive. Bulbs already started 
 or field-grown roots, — clumps of bulbs just as they 
 were dug up in the fall, — may be bought from the 
 
 Canna-bed for color 
 
 florists or seedsmen. Started bulbs will give quicker 
 effects than the field-grown roots, but the latter are 
 cheaper. When buying these field-grown roots, it is 
 necessary to divide them, being careful that each 
 bulb has a piece of the woody stem which contains 
 
22 
 
 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 buds; otherwise the roots will not produce new 
 plants. 
 
 THE CHEERFUL CANNAS 
 
 There is a wide choice among cannas; they may 
 be had at varying heights, from 13^2 ^^ 6 feet, and 
 
 The modern cactus dahliq. 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 23 
 
 they will bear a profusion of red or yellow flowers. 
 The orchid-flowered canna has very large and beau- 
 tifully shaped blossoms, the petals being unusually 
 broad. 
 
 The foliage of the canna also differs; while ordi- 
 narily green, there are varieties with deep bronze- 
 colored leaves. 
 
 Next to the canna, the dahlia is, perhaps, the 
 most popular of the bulbous plants which may be 
 planted in the spring; it is not, however, nearly so 
 good as a bedding plant. It may be used in the bor- 
 der, among shrubbery, or planted out by itself in 
 the back garden to produce cut-flowers, and the 
 latter use is really the best to which the dahlia can 
 be put, for, after it once commences flowering in 
 summer, it usually continues until frost kills the 
 tops. There is a wide range of color among dahlia 
 flowers, from white to dark red. There is also great 
 variety, in shapes; there is the single dahlia, which 
 looks like a large, broad-leaved, colored daisy having 
 very broad florets, the cactus dahlia, and the show 
 dahlia, the latter having the appearance of a big:, 
 fluted ball. 
 
 OLD-FASHIONED DAHLIAS 
 
 One may buy young plants, but this is really 
 unnecessary, as in the eastern United States early- 
 started dahlias seldom give the same returns to the 
 grower as late-started bulbs, for the dahlia will not 
 bloom successfully in the excessively hot summer 
 weather to which localities from New York south- 
 
24 
 
 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 The formal show dahlia 
 
 ward are subject. North of New York, the dahlia 
 will flower much better during the summer. Bulbs 
 set in the ground any time in May after all danger 
 of frost is past, however, will give satisfaction in 
 most localities. In the hotter climates, they should 
 not be planted until about the first of June. 
 
 Recently there has been an entirely new race of 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 25 
 
 dahlias produced by crossing the common kind with 
 a newly discovered Mexican species. The flowers of 
 this new race of dahlias are produced on much 
 longer stems than the ordinary dahlia, which makes 
 it very desirable as cut-flowers, for one does not have 
 to cut off flower-buds in order to get long stems, as 
 
 Collarette dahlia— an odd variety 
 
26 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 is the case with the dahlias with wliich we are 
 famihar. This new dahUa is particularly desirable 
 because its large crop of flowers is produced before 
 the fall frosts arrive. 
 
 THE GLADIOLI 
 
 The third important bulb for planting in May is 
 the gladiolus, which is more hardy than the canna 
 or the dahlia, so it may be planted even when there 
 
 How new bulbs are formed 
 
 is still danger of a few frosts. On account of the 
 stiff character of the gladiolus, it does not make a 
 good bedding plant, unless there is an edging of 
 some low-growing plant. 
 
 The bulbs should be planted 2 inches deep and 
 4 to 5 inches apart, and if to be used for bedding 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 27 
 
 purposes the rows should be a httle farther apart, 
 say 10 inches, so that in two or three weeks another 
 planting may be made between the original rows. 
 This will insure a succession of bloom up to the time 
 
 The stately gladiolus 
 
 the frosts come. There is a wide diversity of color 
 in the flowers, and the gladiolus increases rapidly. 
 Each year, upon digging up the bulbs, a lot of bulb- 
 lets will be found around the base of the plant, some 
 only one-quarter of an inch in diameter. If all of 
 them are removed in the spring and planted in 
 rows in the garden, they will make plants which will 
 
28 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 flower the following yeiir. They are very easily 
 removed, it only being necessary to rub them off 
 with the finger. 
 
 GOOD GLAD GLADIOLI 
 
 Rightly named is the gladiolus, as it makes us 
 glad almost the whole year. Are we not glad from 
 the time when the eagerh^ looked-for package arrives 
 from the florist's, and we almost reverently lift the 
 fresh, plump bulbs from their wrappings, and specu- 
 late upon their possibilities? The variety and un- 
 rivaled brilliancy of their colors, together with the 
 ease with which they may be grown, and the variety 
 of conditions under which they thrive, are reasons 
 why these bulbs should be grown in every garden. 
 We are glad again when the light green points 
 begin breaking through the soil, because we know 
 that every bulb planted will be sure to yield one 
 or more lovely flower-spikes. 
 
 It is doubtful if any flower can be grown in our 
 gardens that will give greater satisfaction than a 
 bed of gladioli. It seems no exaggeration to say 
 that, for real refined beauty and general usefulness, 
 they stand unrivaled among the many lovely summer- 
 blooming bulbs. 
 
 My collection was started with one hundred 
 bulbs — Groff's mixed hybrids. Every season, I add 
 a few of some named variety. Sometimes I buy only 
 one or two of the newer and more expensive sorts. 
 These new ones are always planted by themselves, 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 29 
 
 SO that they may receive a httle extra care, and give 
 me an opportunity to become thoroughly acquainted 
 with their characteristics. If I am much pleased 
 with them, the bulbs are carefully lifted in the fall 
 and stored during the winter in dry sand, to prevent 
 the bulblets, which form on the old bulb, drying out. 
 By keeping up my experiments in this way I always 
 have the best. 
 
 HOW TO PLANT 
 
 In the spring, these little bulbs are planted about 
 an inch deep in a box of light, rich soil, and placed 
 out where they get the morning sun. If the bulblets 
 are peeled, they will come up in a few days. Before 
 I knew this little secret, I planted them with their 
 jackets on. But few came up, and those only after 
 weeks of waiting. Of course, they did not amount to 
 much, and for several years the little offsets were 
 thrown away. Now I save the bulblets from my 
 choice varieties, as I find they will come up in about 
 ten days, and make blooming-size bulbs for the next 
 season, some of them over an inch in diameter 
 
 One season, I tried two bulbs of the new ruffled 
 type of gladiolus. Glory. It is, indeed, a lovely flower. 
 The bulbs gave four large, strong stalks, with broadly 
 expanded flowers of a light peachy tint or pinkish 
 white, with ruffled edges which add much to their 
 beauty. When lifted, I found that each bulb had 
 produced two fully as large again as the ones planted, 
 with dozens of bulblets. 
 
30 
 
 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 FAVORITE VARIETIES 
 
 Another charming one is Mrs. Francis King, an 
 unusually vigorous, strong-growing sort. The flowers 
 are nearly 5 inches in diameter, a mingling of dazzling 
 scarlet and crimson. They make a wonderful display 
 in the garden, as so many flowers are open at one 
 time. They are also very brilliant under artificial 
 light. The only reason this bulb is so cheap is because 
 it multiplies rapidly, the flower being fully as hand- 
 
 Flower-spikes of the Gladiolus in the border 
 
HOW TO MAIvE A BULB-GARDEN 31 
 
 some as, and more showy than, Princeps, which 
 seldom has more than two flowers open at one time, 
 and which, with me, has never increased. 
 
 America and Blue Jay are two very beautiful 
 varieties. America, a bright pink, is too well known 
 to need any description. Blue Jay is usually con- 
 ceded to be the best of the blues. Personally, I am 
 very partial to all of the pansy-colored sorts. They 
 are not so frequently seen as the older varieties, and 
 are sure to attract attention. They appear to best 
 advantage in a vase by themselves, or with only 
 white or yellow colors. 
 
 Canary-Bird, Klondyke, Eldorado, and Sulphur 
 King are all good yellows. Snowbank and Augusta 
 are among the cheapest, as well as the best, of the 
 whites. Augusta has a medium-sized flower of. pure 
 white, with blue anthers. The stalk is tall and 
 straight, with usually two branches. This sort in- 
 creases rapidly. If you like a bold, striking flower, 
 you should plant Mephistopheles. This combination 
 of scarlet, black and yellow is sure to attract atten- 
 tion. 
 
 Ihe gladiolus has been separated into classes 
 according to color, and may be bought in shades of 
 white and light, striped and variegated, pink and 
 rose, red and scarlet, yellow and orange, and blue 
 hybrids. A good way to obtain a fine collection is 
 to buy twenty-five of each class, which may be 
 obtained at the hundred rates. Considerable taste 
 and endless study are required, however, to make 
 these color schemes succeed. 
 
32 HOW TO MAIvE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 I PROPER SOILS 
 
 The gladiolus may be planted in any soil that 
 will grow good vegetables, but prefers a moist loam, 
 in full sunshine. The bulbs should be set from 4 to 
 6 inches deep, according to the soil. Shallow- 
 planted bulbs will need some support, which should 
 be given early. I grow most of mine in the vegetable 
 garden for cutting. The bulbs are planted 5 inches 
 deep in double rows, 6 inches apart in the row, but 
 15 inches is allowed between the double rows. As 
 soon as they are up, cultivation begins and is kept 
 up all summer. 
 
 I find one planting, the latter part of May, to be 
 all that is necessary. Almost before we know it, the 
 flower-stalk appears, and all summer and fall great 
 quantities of flowers may be cut, equally useful as a 
 table or parlor decoration, or a bride's bouquet. 
 Combined with ferns, the gladiolus forms a beautiful 
 offering for the casket or grave of a loved one. 
 
 The bulbs should be left in the ground until 
 danger of frost appears, when they should be care- 
 fully lifted (not pulled up) and spread in a warm, 
 dry place for a few days, after which the stalk is cut 
 off about 2 inches from the bulbs. They are then 
 placed in baskets, and hung from the ceiling in the 
 cellar. There is never any question about their 
 keeping. 
 
 The gladiolus bulb blossoms but once, and, while 
 producing the foliage and floral spike, another or new 
 bulb develops on top of the old one from which it 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 33 
 
 Tuberose 
 
 must be detached. At 
 the same time numer- 
 ous tiny bulblets are 
 formed, the replanting 
 of which matures them 
 the second year. Surely, 
 a flower so easy to grow, 
 so reasonable in price, 
 so decorative, and so 
 much admired, should 
 be grown by everyone 
 who has a foot of land. 
 
 THE FRAGRANT 
 TUBEROSE 
 
 * . . The most fragrant 
 . ^ bulbous flower 
 -^^ grown in the gar- 
 '^^'^-~-~--=^ den is the tube- 
 rose. The odor 
 is so powerful 
 that some people object 
 to it; but a few plants 
 grown in a corner of 
 the garden will lend a 
 charm that can be im- 
 parted in no other way. 
 There are two kinds, tall 
 and short, the tall kinds 
 have stems 2 feet or 
 
34 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 over, while the dwarf variety seldom grows over 
 18 inches high. Bulbs planted late in May will 
 produce flowers in August. There is, however, a 
 somewhat earlier-blooming variety. Albino, which 
 flowers during July. It is single, and the odor is not 
 so powerful, a fact which recommends it to those 
 who object to the stronger odor of the common 
 kind. 
 
 THE ELEPHANT'S EAR 
 
 One plant which often creates much rivalry 
 among neighbors, who try to see who can grow 
 the biggest leaf, is the elephant's ear (caladium). 
 Bulbs of this plant may be purchased and planted 
 out just as soon as all danger of frost is passed, and, 
 if the soil is moist and rich, large leaves of deep 
 green will be produced. It is impossible to give the 
 elephant's ear too much food. Mulch the soil about 
 it with 4 or 5 inches of well-decayed manure; if 
 the summer is dry give the soil frequent soakings. 
 
 TIGRIDIAS 
 
 The showiest of all the bulbous plants which one 
 may plant out-of-doors in the spring is the shell 
 flower (tigridia). It has flowers 2 or more inches 
 across, yellow, orange, or purplish, that are variously 
 spotted. The tigridia blooms in July and August. 
 Pavonia is a common species, but it has many va- 
 rieties. It needs the same treatment exactly as the 
 gladiolus. 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 35 
 
 Showy tigridias 
 
 FALL-PLANTED BULBS 
 
 After all, the main show of spring bulbs is pro- 
 vided for by fall planting. These are the tulips, 
 narcissi, hyacinths, etc. Most of the leading dealers 
 issue special autumn catalogues for these goods, and 
 every garden-owner will surely want to see th^t 
 seductive literature, 
 
36 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 One of the most difficult things for the beginner 
 to decide is just what kind of bulbs to get. Some- 
 times the pocketbook is limited, or the space for 
 planting is small; in either case, it is difficult to 
 know what to buy, in order to obtain the best results 
 from the money expended, and the space of ground 
 at the disposal of the planter. 
 
 It is also difficult to advise the planter without 
 knowing all the circumstances. Some who have a 
 dollar to spend would like to buy everything. They 
 look through the catalogues at the great variety of 
 good things offered and become confused, and 
 finally end by buying a dozen or fifteen different 
 varieties with their dollar. This is a mistake. A 
 person who has only one dollar to spend ought to 
 buy a very few varieties, but as many of each variety 
 as possible. When bought by the dozen, an average 
 of about thirty bulbs can be had for the above 
 sum of money; whereas, if single bulbs are purchased 
 the average number would be only fifteen for the 
 same amount. 
 
 TULIPS FOR DISPLAY 
 
 One tulip in the garden will attract attention, 
 but only because it contrasts with the other objects 
 around it, and it looks too much like a lone sentinel 
 to be effective. One dozen will attract attention 
 because of their own exquisite beauty; while one 
 hundred will make a man wake up and take notice, 
 unless he is indifferent to the grander sights of 
 earth. The number of varieties may be added to 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 37 
 
 from year to year, and, when properly taken care of, 
 the natural increase will, in a few years, make a large 
 and magnificent display. 
 
 
 ti^ 
 
 A group of Keizerkroon tulips 
 
 Formal bedding is the fashionable way of planting 
 tulips and hyacinths today, although to the writer's 
 mind there is nothing more delightfully pleasant to 
 the senses than the careless minghng of the various 
 colors which belong to these flowers. A bed of mixed 
 
38 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 tulips, with their scarlet, vermilion and gold, orange, 
 rose and white, or the kaleidoscopic blending of rose, 
 cream, crimson, azure, carmine, and indigo of the 
 hyacinth, is a sight to be remembered forever. But 
 fashion will have its way, and, as it dictates the 
 formal bed, the question presented for our con- 
 sideration is: What varieties are best suited for this 
 purpose? 
 
 FORMAL BEDS 
 
 The first essentials for formal bedding are uni- 
 form height and time of blooming. In the tulips, 
 the Due Van Thols are the earliest to bloom and, 
 except the scarlet, which is a week or so earlier, all 
 bloom at the same period, and are all of uniform 
 height. They come in crimson, rose, yellow, white, 
 and red with a gold stripe. Any of these colors may 
 be selected, but they are much shorter than, and 
 the bloom is not nearly so large as, some of the me- 
 dium-early sorts. If I were asked to name the best 
 three red, yellow, and white bedding tulips, I would 
 say, in the single varieties — Artus, La Reine, and 
 Chrysolora. Most catalogues describe Artus as a 
 bright scarlet; but it is a medium dark red, at least 
 that has been the writer's experience with it. It 
 grows about 10 inches high, and has considerable 
 demand as a cut-flower. 
 
 La Reine is not a pure white, but is slightly 
 shaded rose, which frequently enables it to pass 
 where a pink flower is desired. But the shading is 
 so slight that; when bedded with Artus, it will pass 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 39 
 
 for a pure white except on closer examination. In 
 size of flower and length of stem it is the same as 
 Artus. Chrysolora is a beautiful golden yellow. It 
 is an inch or so shorter than the other two varieties, 
 which makes it desirable for the outer rows. In the 
 doubles, Rex Rubrorum, La Candeur, and Couronne 
 
 Tulips for foundation planting 
 
40 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 d'Or present strong claims to the distinction of 
 being the best three double bedding tulips. 
 
 In the red, white, and blue of the hyacinth I 
 would say. General Pehssier, crimson; Baron Van 
 Thuyll, white, and King of the Blues, make a trio 
 which is hard to beat. When growTi in good soil, 
 the spikes are large, round, and full, and make a 
 fine showing. These are all single hyacinths, which 
 are preferable to the double varieties. 
 
 SOME GOOD VARIETIES 
 
 Where tulips are grown in solid colors, either for 
 the display they make in the garden or for cut-flower 
 purposes, there are many varieties to select from. 
 There are Thomas Moore, orange-color and scented; 
 Picotee, with petals gracefully recurved; Golden 
 Crown, medium tall, with yellow petals edged red; 
 Paris Yellow, late, tall, and handsome; Paris White, 
 the last of the white tulips to bloom; White Swan, 
 medium early, tall, and graceful as its namesake, 
 and fine for cut-flower purposes. Of course, indi- 
 vidual tastes differ; but very few, if any, will be 
 disappointed in the above, which are worthy a 
 place in any collection. 
 
 The Darwin tulips are among the late bloomers, 
 and are, in the writer's opinion, the finest tulips of 
 all. Coming as they do when other flowers are scarce, 
 their long stems and large, cup-shaped flowers and 
 good keeping qualities make them very desirable as 
 cut-flowers. Usually they are of solid color, although 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 41 
 
 a few sorts are slightly shaded. They are suitable 
 for any location and, when planted in clumps of 
 eight or a dozen among shrubbery, they light up the 
 somber surroundings with a flame of glory that puts 
 to shaifie the descriptive powers of the English 
 vocabulary. 
 
 ODD VARIETIES 
 
 Immediately after the Darwins come the By- 
 bloems and Bizarres. These are not admired by 
 everybody, but they are, nevertheless, good tulips. 
 The Bizarres have a yellow background, blotched, 
 striped, and penciled in every conceivable manner 
 
 -0 •" ■ 
 
 la i^Mn 
 
 •.»"f^..-. 
 
 
 .-■■ *:■;■' '->i^ 
 
 
 
 ■Ki^' 
 
 ' ■ (1 w ■' '^ 'tiwiw^^^^^ 
 
 m 
 
 
 m^Hp.^ 
 
 
 
 0^ 
 
 A good tiilip-bed 
 
42 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 with shades of brown, red, and crimson, giving the 
 petals the appearance of beautiful feathers. They 
 grow tall and stately, and as cut-flowers they keep 
 well. They are among the latest tulips to bloom, 
 and for this reason are most desirable, as they help 
 to bridge the gap between the early spring flowers 
 and the herbaceous perennials and annuals. By- 
 bloems are similar to the Bizarres, except in the 
 contrasting colors. The background of these is 
 white and the markings are various shades of red 
 and purple. 
 
 DEPTHS TO PLANT 
 
 Tulip and narcissus bulbs should be planted 4 
 inches deep and from 4 to 6 inches apart. Smaller 
 bulbs, such as the snowdrop, crocus, etc., 2 inches 
 deep and 3 or 4 inches apart; hyacinths, 5 inches 
 deep and 6 inches apart ; while the larger bulbs, such 
 as Lilium candidum, should be planted 6 to 8 inches 
 deep and a foot apart. 
 
 These bulbs do not require to be taken up and 
 reset every year. Every second or third year is 
 often enough; but they should not be allowed to go 
 more than three years, as they would then become 
 too crowded. When dividing, the larger bulbs may 
 be selected for the more prominent parts of the 
 garden, and the small bulbs planted in some out-of- 
 the-way place, where they will get sunshine and rain 
 until they have reached blooming size. A small 
 nurserj^ where these bulbs can be developed is very 
 desirable. 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 TIME TO PLANT 
 
 43 
 
 Now let us review and tabulate the whole col- 
 lection, with special reference to the planting time. 
 This little inventory will enable us to see at a 
 glance what a wealth of material we have to draw 
 upon, and at the same time will give us a good idea 
 of the month in which they should be planted, and 
 whether they are hardy or tender. Here is the Hst: 
 
 WHEN TO PLANT THE BULBS 
 
 Canna 
 Dnhlia 
 
 May 
 Gladiolus Tigridia 
 CalRdium Tuberose 
 
 Freesia 
 Oxalis 
 
 August 
 
 Lilium candidum* 
 
 L. longiflorum and varieties 
 
 Anemone coronaria 
 
 Brodisea 
 
 Calla 
 
 Calochortus* 
 
 Crocus* 
 
 Crown Imperial* 
 
 September 
 Chinese Sacred Lily OxaHs 
 Grape Hyacinth* Ranunculus 
 Hyacinth* Snowdrop* 
 LachenaUa Squill* 
 Narcissus* Tulip* 
 
 
 October 
 
 Iris* 
 
 Ixia Nerine 
 
 
 November 
 
 Astilbe* 
 
 Amaryllis 
 
 Gladiolus 
 
 Lilium species* 
 Lily-of-the- Valley* 
 
 *Hardy 
 
44 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 SELECT LISTS 
 
 The amateur will' always be confused by the 
 long lists of varieties in the catalogues, each one 
 described as the perfection of beauty. For all begin- 
 ners, therefore, a brief list of approved sorts is very 
 desirable, though everyone should experiment f.or 
 himself and should add some new varieties to his 
 collection annually. 
 
 EXHIBITION HYACINTHS 
 
 Red and pink: 
 
 Fabiola. Pink, striped with crimson; good; large spike. 
 
 Gigantea. Extra-large spike; pale rose. 
 
 Moreno. The best pale pink. 
 
 Norma. One of the best. Uniform rose, with large spike. 
 
 Robert Steiger and Roi des Beiges. Very similar. Deep 
 red and both good. 
 
 Blue or lavender: 
 
 Czar Peter. Pale blue; one of the very best of its color. 
 
 King of the Blues. The best dark blue; large spike and 
 bells. 
 
 La Peyrouse and Pieneman. Very much alike. Pale blue; 
 enormous spikes. 
 
 Queen of the Blues. Pale blue; large and one of the favor- 
 ites. 
 
 White: 
 
 Baroness Van Thuyll. White, with pale yellow center; 
 reliable and good. 
 
 Grandeur a Merveille. The best blush-white. 
 
 La Grandesse. Pure white; one of the largest and most 
 reliable. 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 45 
 
 Yellow: 
 
 King of the Yellows. The largest spike and bells of thia 
 color. 
 
 Yellow Hammer. The best golden yellow. 
 
 The double hyacinths, while fairly pretty if the 
 best bulbs can be secured, are so far inferior to the 
 
 A border of hyacinths 
 
 single varieties as not to merit a place in a general 
 list. 
 
 The single early tulips are larger than the Due 
 Van Thol varieties, and several weeks later. They 
 combine well with the earliest varieties of large 
 trumpet narcissi, as they blossom at about the 
 
46 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 same time. The same caution as regards growing in 
 shade after the blossom appears apphes to these, as 
 well as to the Due Van Thol varieties. The number 
 of named varieties of single early tulips is legion. 
 Unfortunately, while good for outdoor culture, many 
 of the finest will not bear forcing. The following list 
 are all reliable forcers, and are generally acknowl- 
 edged to be the best of their respective colors. 
 
 SINGLE EARLY TULIPS 
 
 Cottage Maid. Pink-and-white. 
 
 Couleur Cardinal. Deep crimson. 
 
 Duchess of Parma. Red, edged yellow. 
 
 Goldfinch. Yellow. 
 
 Keizerkroon. Scarlet, edged yellow; large. 
 
 La Reine (Queen Victoria). White, flushed with rose. 
 
 Le Matelas. Silvery pink. 
 
 Pottebakker Scarlet. Bright scarlet. 
 
 Pottebakker White. White. 
 
 Prince of Austria. Orange-red. 
 
 Proserpine. Carmine-pink. 
 
 Queen of the Netherlands. Deep pink. 
 
 Vermilion Brilliant. Bright red. 
 
 Yellow Prince. Yellow; sweet-scented. 
 
 The double tulips follow the single ones in time 
 of blooming, and form a charming class by them- 
 selves. The flowers are most of them very sweet- 
 scented, remain in good condition for a long time, 
 and, while not forcing so easily as the single varieties, 
 yet, if the right tulips are selected, are well within the 
 scope of the amateur. 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 47 
 
 DOUBLE TULIPS 
 
 Boule de Neige. White. 
 
 Crown of Gold. Deep yellow. 
 
 Murillo. White, shaded pink. 
 
 Rex Rubrorum. Red, 
 
 Tournesol Pink. Pink. 
 
 Toumesol Scarlet. Red, edged yellow. 
 
 Tournesol Yellow. Orange-yellow. 
 
 LATE TULIPS 
 
 The late tulip should never be omitted from any 
 garden. The early varieties seem to have a strange 
 preference in the amateur's mind, but the late ones 
 are far superior. They are the finest of all the Dutch 
 bulbs. Some of the best varieties in this list are : 
 
 La Reve. Soft rose, shading to apricot at the base; large, 
 globe-shaped flowers. 
 
 La Merveille. Magnificent flowers of great size; salmon- 
 rose, shaded orange-red; fragrant. 
 
 May Blossom. Pure white, beautifully striped with bright 
 rose. 
 
 Miss Willmott. Flowery very large, beautifully shaped and 
 of soft creamy yellow; very fragrant. 
 
 Mrs. Moon. Fine late yellow; petals beautifully reflexed. 
 
 Picotee (Maiden's Blush). White, penciled and margined 
 with bright cerise, becoming deep pink all over as it matures; 
 lasts long; lovely form. 
 
 Retroflexa. Deep yellow; large; petals long, tapering and 
 gracefully recurved. 
 
 Scarlet Emperor. Glowing scarlet, with yellow center. 
 
 Shandon Bells (Isabella). Bright rose, flaked with white. 
 
 Tubergeniana. Bright orange-scarlet, with black center; 
 very large. 
 
48 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 DARWIN TULIPS 
 
 But for pure joy and unabated glory the Darwin 
 tulips surpass all others. They have good colors, 
 but they are to be admired most of all for their 
 graceful, stately forms. Some good named varieties 
 are the following: 
 
 Ariadne. Fiery scarlet. 
 
 Bronze Queen. Light yellow; extra large. 
 
 Clara Butt. Exquisite shade of soft salmon-pink; a large 
 flower of remarkable beauty. 
 
 Flambeau. Brilliant scarlet, with blue center. 
 
 Glow. Crimson-scarlet, center blue, margined white. 
 
 Gretchen. Large, globular flower of soft blush-pink; very 
 beautiful. One of the very finest. 
 
 King Harold. Dark blood-red, shaded maroon. 
 
 Kate Greenaway. White, flushed with hlac; very large; 
 late. 
 
 La Candeur. Large, globular, white flower, slightly tinged 
 with blush; anthers black. 
 
 La Tulipe Noire (The Black Tulip). The darkest of all 
 TuUps; very large. 
 
 Loveliness. An exquisite shade of satiny rose-pink. 
 
 Madam Krelage. Dark rose, shading to light pink at edges. 
 
 May Queen. Delicate rosy pink; large and beautiful. 
 
 Old Gold (Yellow Perfection). Golden yellow, overlaid 
 with bronze. 
 
 Painted Lady. Soft milky white flowers on purple stems. 
 
 Pride of Haarlem. Bright rose, suffused with purple. 
 
 Rev. H. Ewbank. Vivid heliotrope, shaded with lilac. 
 
 Salmon King. Rich, glowing salmon, with white base. 
 
 The Sultan. Glossy black-maroon. 
 
 Velvet King, Shining purple; enormous flower. 
 
 Zulu. Glossy blue-black; large flower. 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 49 
 
 # 
 
 Other types of tulips not to be overlooked are 
 the Bizarres, the Bybloems, and the Parrots. The 
 Bizarres and Bybloems are large, late varieties, 
 suitable for the border or 
 general garden; the Parrots 
 are earlier and showier, 
 though less dignified. 
 All are well worth 
 having. 
 
 NARCISSI 
 
 Merging with the 
 tulips as regards blos- 
 soming come the large 
 trumpet narcissi, 
 which are the best of all 
 narcissi for display. 
 The smaller varieties 
 can be forced, and in 
 a large collection of 
 bulbs might be included; 
 but, for the ordinary 
 grower who wishes the lar- 
 gest display for the smallest 
 outlay of money, the follow- 
 ing will be found by far the 
 most satisfactory: 
 
 L. i .tL 
 
 Empress narcissi, one of 
 the best sorts 
 
 Emperor. Very large; pure yellow; one of the finest. 
 
 Empress. Yellow trumpet, white perianth; very large and 
 extra fine. 
 
 Princeps. Pale primrose-yellow; the earliest of aU. 
 
50 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 Rugilobus. Golden yellow, with primrose trumpet; very 
 large flower. 
 
 Spurius. Golden yellow throughout. 
 
 These above, while comprising not a tenth part 
 of the many varieties now listed, have the merit of 
 cheapness as well as reliability. 
 
 JONQUILS 
 
 The pretty, fragrant jonquils are hardy and 
 willing, and may well be included in any garden 
 collection. 
 
 POLYANTHUS NARCISSI 
 
 Early Double Roman. Very fragrant; needs staking, and 
 the flowers are not particularity handsome. 
 
 Grand Monarque. White, with pale primrose cup; flower 
 extra large; later than the other varieties. 
 
 Grand Soleil d'Or. Pure soft yellow, with deep orange 
 cup; stem rather weak and needs staking, but flower very 
 satisfactory; fragrant. 
 
 Paper White. The best of all bulbs for water culture; 
 always sure to bloom. 
 
 HYACINTHS 
 
 Big, buxom, showy hyacinths appeal to" every 
 eye, especially the unprejudiced eye of the child. 
 The best Dutch hyacinths have only one real draw- 
 back — they are a wee bit expensive. Still, there are 
 many men and women who insist on having them. 
 Comparatively speaking, they are better for forcing 
 than for outdoor planting. Standard single varieties 
 are: 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 51 
 
 Baroness Van Thuyll. White, with primrose eye; large. 
 Enchantress. Pale porcelain-blue; large. 
 General Vetter. Blush-white; large spike. 
 Gertrude. Good, bright pink; large; good form. 
 Grand Maitre. Sky-blue. 
 King of the Blues. Dark blue; large. 
 L'Innocence. Pure white; immense bells and spike. 
 Rosea maxima. DeHcate rose; fine form. 
 
 There are also several very excellent double 
 varieties in different colors. But perhaps the smaller 
 and more delicate Roman hyacinths are even more 
 admired. Good varieties in this class are the fol- 
 lowing : 
 
 Early White Roman. The earliest, as well as the most satis- 
 factory of this class; pure white blossoms. Each bulb pro- 
 duces several si)ikes. 
 
 Light Blue Early Roman. Flowers scanty, but of a beauti- 
 ful shade of lavender-blue; make a handsome bunch, but do 
 not give a satisfactory display when growing. 
 
 Pink Early Roman. Flowers scantier on spike than the 
 white; so pale a pink as to be nearly white; not very satis- 
 factory. 
 
 White Parisian. Blossom about two weeks later than the 
 Early White Roman, and are good as a succession. Flowers 
 white, feathery and beautiful, turning to blush as the flowers 
 begni to fade. 
 
 LILIES TO THE FRONT 
 
 The aristocrats of the garden are the lilies. They 
 are so aristocratic that many persons suppose them 
 unapproachable, undemocratic. Yet what could be 
 more common and democratic than the good old 
 tiger lily? The fact is that several good kinds of 
 lilies can be grown in almost any garden. 
 
52 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 A flower-loving friend of mine has a bed of the 
 choicest hUes where only the aristocrats among this 
 charming family are allowed. Many other flowers 
 she has in her garden — sometimes we envy her the 
 great beds of peonies and roses; but when we view 
 the splendors of her lily-bed, envy is lost in admi- 
 ration. 
 
 One fall, seventy-five bulbs of the Speciosum 
 variety were procured, to add to the attractiveness 
 of her bed. The bulbs came late, arriving the twenty- 
 fourth of December, but a place for each bulb had 
 been prepared and marked with a stake, and a heavy 
 mulch had kept the ground from freezing. So, on 
 Christmas day, seventy-one bulbs were planted 
 in the rich loam of the lily-bed. The other four were 
 sent to two friends who had never seriously "con- 
 sidered the lily." I think that, when the crisp, 
 pearly white blooms of Lilium speciosum album and 
 the dainty pink L. speciosum ruhrum unfurled their 
 fragrant petals, there were at least two converts to 
 the charms of the lily. 
 
 THE MADONNA LILY 
 
 The reliable old Lilium candidum, also called 
 Annunciation, St. Joseph's, and Madonna Lily, is 
 the general favorite. These bulbs may be had in 
 August, and should be planted at once — the earlier 
 the better. They will not bloom the following season 
 unless planted early enough to make their growth of 
 leaves in the fall. 
 
The Madonna lily 
 
54 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 This is one of the sweetest HHes in existence; its 
 beautiful, snow-white blossoms are the emblem of 
 purity, the world over. It is the lily loved of poet and 
 painter. It is said to be one of the oldest, and is 
 supposed to have been brought to this country by 
 the Pilgrim Fathers, who loved and cherished it even 
 as we do. It blooms in June with the roses and del- 
 phinium, — almost too much charm for one short 
 month. But by having a good number of varieties 
 we may enjoy the lily's bloom every month from 
 May to November. 
 
 The L. auratum is considered one of the finest and 
 most gorgeous of the lily family. It comes to us from 
 the mountains of Japan, and is called the Golden- 
 rayed Japanese Lily. The flower-stalks are usually 
 about 3 feet in height, although they have been 
 known to grow 6 feet high. The blossoms are from 
 6 to 12 inches in diameter; each petal has a band of 
 golden yellow through its center, and is thickly 
 spotted with carmine. The flowers of this lily vary 
 in color and markings. In some, the spots will be 
 large and of a deep red ; in others, they are small and 
 indistinct; but all variations are lovely. The flower 
 lasts a long time before fading. Its odor is very 
 powerful, too much so for the house, but is delightful 
 in the garden. This bulb requires deep planting and 
 a light soil. Unless the conditions are very favorable 
 L. auratum will be very likely to deteriorate in our 
 gardens, entirely disappearing in from three to five 
 years; but the bulbs are inexpensive and it pays to 
 grow them. 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 55 
 
 OTHER GOOD LH^IES 
 
 The funnel-shaped L. elegans is in the class that 
 does well in almost any situation, sun or shade, and 
 is not at all particular as to soil. The cup-shaped 
 blossoms, on stems about 3 feet high, appear in June 
 and July. They range in color from lemon to red. 
 This lily requires absolutely no care, and is showy 
 enough to satisfy anyone. 
 
 L. Hansoni is one of the earliest bloomers, its 
 waxy lemon-colored flowers, spotted with crimson, 
 appearing in May. 
 
 L. Philadelphicurn blooms in midsummer. The 
 showy red flowers shade to lemon in the center, and 
 they are of upright rather than drooping habit. It 
 is a native of several of the eastern states, but grows 
 most abundantly in New York. The small bulb is 
 not set so deeply in the soil as most lilies. I have 
 found it growing only 3 or 4 inches under light leaf- 
 mold. It takes kindly to cultivation. L. speciosum 
 is the most daintily colored of any of the family. 
 The beautifully spotted waxy petals are curved, 
 displaying the prominent anthers. L. speciosum 
 album is pure white, and the petals have a soft 
 fringe, which adds to its beauty. The whole fragrant 
 flower has a frosted appearance. L. rubrum is shaped 
 like the above, but the flower has an exquisite 
 shading of carmine, and is thickly spotted with the 
 same color. L. Melpomene is the brightest colored 
 of this class. All the speciosum liUes are perfectly 
 hardy and very free-flowering. 
 
56 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 SOME "NEAR" LILIES 
 
 My friend's bed of lilies is bordered with funkia, 
 or white day hly. Although these and the hemero- 
 callis are not hlies at all, in any proper popular or 
 scientific use of language, they are so beautiful that 
 they should be included in every collection of Ulies. 
 There is the Grandiflora variety, with broad, veined 
 leaves. The white, fragrant flowers are at their best 
 in the evening, and should be planted in a bed near 
 the porch, where they may be enjoyed during the 
 summer twilight hours. The funkias love shade and 
 a moist soil. 
 
 Another day lily not allowed in this bed of ex- 
 quisite beauty is Hemerocallis fulva. While there is 
 nothing dainty about this old, tawny orange flower, 
 and it is not considered worthy of a place even in 
 the back yard in a well-regulated border, it needs 
 only the right setting to convince anyone that it is 
 showy, and sometimes very beautiful. I never real- 
 ized this until I saw them growing on the side of a 
 roadway on the shores of Lake Champlain. The 
 bank sloped to the water's edge, and was covered 
 with the orange blossoms of this day lily. Mingling 
 and growing among the low bushes and so-called 
 roadside weeds, they were positively lovely. How 
 did they come to be roadside tramps? Were they 
 thrown from some garden, and made a home for 
 themselves on this sunny slope ; or did someone with 
 imagination have dreams of the effect which might 
 be created with this common flower? I cannot say. 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GAREEN 
 
 57 
 
 The fact remains that they form a picture, once 
 seen not soon forgotten. 
 
 If Hemerocallis fulva is considered coarse and 
 unlovely, there is never any question about the 
 beauty of her dainty little sister, H. flava, or lemon 
 day lily, which is so profuse with its richly colored 
 
 A fine border of hemerocallis 
 
58 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 bloom of delicious fragrance. We love to cut their 
 long stems for house decoration, and every bud will 
 develop into a perfect blossom. Furthermore, they 
 make superb garden borders. 
 
 CULTURAL REQUIREMENTS 
 
 The first and most important thing in the cul- 
 tivation of the lily is good drainage; for nothing is so 
 sure to injure a bulb as stagnant water about its 
 roots. The ideal soil is rotted sod, leaf-mold, and 
 sand. The bed should be deeply dug, and the soil 
 thoroughly pulverized. If fertilizer be used, it should 
 be thoroughly rotted and placed in the bottom of the 
 bed where the roots will find it, but where it cannot 
 come into contact with the bulb. 
 
 The bed should be shaded from the hot midday 
 sun, as its scalding rays injure the beauty of the 
 blossoms, and sometimes cause the buds to blast. 
 
 Fall planting is best for all lily bulbs, though 
 spring planting does very well with some kinds, for 
 example, the Madonna lily. They should be set 
 from 8 to 18 inches deep, and from 1 to 3 feet apart, 
 with some good drainage material placed under each 
 bulb. 
 
 A SPECIAL BULB-GARDEN 
 
 Good results can be secured anywhere with bulbs, 
 but they are so highly specialized in their natural 
 characters that some particular attention may well 
 be given to them in garden designing. 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 59 
 
 The need is arising more and more for ''special- 
 ized gardens," — gardens that shall cater to special 
 horticultural tastes and ambitions. And it is sur- 
 prising how few people realize what a fund of pleasure 
 is offered, ready to their hand, in even a tiny garden 
 that contains a complete collection of some one of 
 their flower favorites. 
 
 One hears always the complaints of ''too little 
 space," "too much bother," "too hard to take care 
 of successfully," and last but by no means least, "our 
 summer vacation prevents," offered as excuses for the 
 lack of a garden in many suburban and city homes. 
 
 And, for these varied reasons, I believe, are we 
 so often confronted by the ever-prevalent front-yard 
 "variety-shop" type of planting, that strives futilely 
 to be lawn, shrubbery border, and flower-garden, 
 all in one; and which, as even an uncritical public 
 can perceive, too often lamentably fails in its effect. 
 
 But to own a garden — and a livable, lovable 
 garden at that — does not necessarily mean that one 
 must be possessed of riches, trained gardeners, a 
 huge quantity of land, or even that one must remain 
 on the premises throughout the summer. The 
 specialized garden offers you beauty and enjoyment in 
 whatever form, or at whatever time of the year, you 
 may prefer. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS BULBS 
 
 There are many bulbs, not so well known, per- 
 haps, as the tulip and hyacinth, but which deserve 
 a prominent place in the bulb-garden. Some of these 
 
60 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 are mentioned in the planting table in the back of 
 this book, with hints as to their treatment. 
 
 The ranunculus is an odd -looking bulb, produ- 
 cing flowers of yellow, white and scarlet in early 
 spring. These can be planted late in the fall, about 
 3 inches deep, care being taken to place the claws 
 on the bulb downward. 
 
 Scillas, or old-fashioned squills, are fine for per- 
 manent edging, and their rich blue flowers make a 
 beautiful contrast, when mixed with snowdrops. The 
 Star of Bethlehem, or ornithogalum, with green and 
 white flowers, is splendid for naturalizing in the 
 wild garden. 
 
 Grape and feathered hyacinths, with small spikes 
 of little blue or white bells are charming when 
 naturalized among shrubbery or grown in a mixed 
 bed. 
 
 Montbretias, or tritonias, bloom in the summer, 
 and have brilliant, loose spikes of flowers in shades 
 of yellow and red. These can be treated like gladioli, 
 or can be left permanently in the ground if given a 
 slight protection in winter. 
 
 Ixias are curious flowers of the most brilliant 
 colors, and can be treated like tulips, but must be 
 given more protection. 
 
 No bulb-garden can be complete without a good 
 show of Spanish iris, which are becoming more 
 popular each year. This species is different from the 
 German iris, and blooms in all imaginable shades 
 from white to deep purple, with a good mixture of 
 yellow. 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 61 
 
 One of the most gorgeous bulbous flowers is the 
 fritillaria, or crown imperial, with a long stem^ 
 surmounted by a cluster of rich crimson and yellow 
 flowers. This is perfectly hardy, and can be grown 
 amongst the shrubbery or in the perennial border. 
 It makes an effective center to beds of other bulbs, 
 but is not so good for growing in a bed by itself. It 
 is one of the most conspicuous of all the spring flowers 
 and should be grown more generally than it is. 
 
 There are many other bulbs, but most of them are 
 best treated as perennials and planted where they 
 are to remain permanently. In this class are lily-of- 
 the-valley and the anemone, both of which grow in 
 good garden soil without any special treatment. 
 
 SEVERAL GOOD QUALITIES 
 
 From many types of specialized garden, the spring- 
 flowering garden of bulbs offers itself as one of the 
 foremost in popularity. It fulfils so many demands. 
 
 It is a blaze of color just when one's garden 
 desire is keenest, after the bleak, cold days of waning 
 winter; it is easiest of all to care for, as, with the 
 exception of a few, the bulbs are permanent, and 
 increase in beauty from year to year; and, best of all, 
 it can be left to its own devices during the vacation 
 months, with the certainty that its beauty will not 
 be spoiled for the coming flowering season. 
 
 A Dutch bulb-garden may be as small as your 
 purse or fancy dictates; but in its designing there 
 are three special points that must be taken into 
 
62 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 consideration: First, the boundaries used; second, 
 the laying out of walks and beds; third, the varieties 
 and arrangement of the bulbs selected as regards 
 the boundaries. One naturally thinks first of the 
 many beautiful spring-flowering shrubs that, planted 
 in irregular masses or in, a double hedge, are used in 
 so many gardens of today. But, in such a garden as 
 we have before us, this is not the best kind of boun- 
 dary to use. The garden interest should focus in the 
 bulbs themselves, and not be drawn aside from the 
 garden's specialty. A brick or stone wall is one of 
 the best boundaries for such a garden, but is beyond 
 the reach of the average garden-lover's purse. Last 
 comes a hedge of evergreen shrubs, and this is by 
 far the most beautiful and satisfactory method of 
 designating the boundaries of such a garden for 
 general use. Box or holly, where it can thrive satis- 
 factorily, and, in colder climates, fir, or best of all 
 arborvitae, form a hedge against which the full 
 beauty of the glowing masses of flowers attains its 
 fullest perfection. 
 
 PATHS AND BEDS 
 
 As to the arrangement of paths and beds, they 
 should be severely formal. In no other type of 
 garden, save perhaps in that abomination known as 
 '^carpet bedding," can formality and stiffness of 
 design be used to such good advantage. In a bulb- 
 garden, geometrical arrangements of beds and paths 
 can be used without giving offense, which in other 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 63 
 
 types of gardening would be considered impossible. 
 This, of course, does not apply to the form of spring 
 *Vild garden," in which bulbs are naturalized in the 
 grass. 
 
 The bulbs should not be too much scattered, but 
 massed boldly as to color and variety; nor should 
 perennial bulbs and bulbs that must be replaced 
 each year be planted together in such a way as to 
 cause difficulty in handling. 
 
 In the accompanying diagram, the five central 
 beds around the sun-dial are intended to contain the 
 ordinary early-flowering tulips, that must be lifted 
 and replaced each year. The colors may be selected 
 as desired, but it is preferable to use only one deep 
 color to a bed. A good color scheme would be to 
 have the bed containing the sun-dial of scarlet and 
 scarlet edged yellow, as striking a central note in the 
 garden's color arrangement. The four surrounding 
 beds could be planned as follows: 
 
 1. Center, yellow tulips edged and streaked 
 with red; or plain j^ellow tulips, with a border of 
 white tulips. 
 
 2. Center, pale pink tulips, edged with a border 
 of white tulips streaked and splashed with pink. 
 
 3. Center, dark red tulips, edged with a border 
 of white tulips streaked and flecked with red. 
 
 4. Center lavender, gray, and purple tulips, with 
 a border of white tulips shaded, streaked and edged 
 with lavender. 
 
 It will be necessary to select varieties blooming 
 at the same time. 
 
64 
 
 HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 
 
 DETAILS OF PLANTING 
 
 The hyacinths in the four round beds should be 
 of sohd colors, edged with white. Pink, lavender, 
 light blue, and yellow are good colors to use. The 
 red may be substituted in place of the yellow. 
 
 In the four larger corner beds, double tulips 
 should be used, in much the same color scheme as in 
 the case of the single ones. 
 
 A well-arranged bulb-garden 
 
HOW TO MAKE A BULB-GARDEN 65 
 
 The outer border nearest the hedge is of late- 
 flowering Darwin and Cottage Garden tuUps that 
 do not need to be moved, but increase in number 
 each year. From six to a dozen bulbs should be 
 massed in each clump, and each clump should con- 
 tain but one variety. Lines of narcissi, containing 
 from fifty to five hundred bulbs in a line, according 
 to the size of the garden and the number of varieties 
 used, should be planted among the tulips, as shown 
 by the diagram. Of course, only one variety should 
 be used in a line. 
 
 Finally, a little Dutch bulb-garden is within the 
 reach of all. It can give beauty to a tiny city lot, or 
 can be stretched to cover a large suburban place. 
 Its cost is not prohibitive, neither is the care of it. 
 A few annuals sown when the bulbs are losing their 
 beauty transform it into a little summer annual 
 garden ; or, if the family is to be away for the summer, 
 weeds may grow and flourish unmolested, with the 
 certainty that they will cause no harm. Winter 
 frosts will kill them, and clear the ground for the 
 spring's display, with only a little aid from the 
 amateur gardener. And the spring days will bring 
 with them a newer and livelier interest. 
 
 PLANTING TABLES 
 
 Finally, it seems best to summarize all the fore- 
 going points, along with much other information on 
 the planting and culture of bulbs, in a planting 
 table. Here it is-: 
 
A 
 
 PLANTING TABLE FOR 
 
 
 Common and Botanical Names 
 
 Tender 
 
 or 
 Hardy 
 
 Color 
 
 Depth 
 to Plant 
 
 (In.) 
 
 Dist. 
 Apart 
 
 (In.) 
 
 Chilian Lily {Alstraemeria Chilensis) 
 
 Belladonna Lily (Amaryllis Belladonna) . 
 Poppy Anemone {A7iemone coronaria). . . 
 Spirea (Astilbe Japonica) 
 
 H. 
 T. 
 H. 
 H. 
 T. 
 T. 
 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 T. 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 
 ■ 
 Red, yellow- 
 Red to white 
 
 Red, blue, 
 
 white 
 
 White, pink, 
 
 Red 
 
 Red 
 
 YeUow 
 
 Blue 
 
 Purple, pink, 
 white 
 White 
 
 Pink 
 
 Yellow, pur- 
 ple, white 
 Lilac 
 
 Red 
 
 Yellow 
 
 Rosy 
 
 Rosy purple, 
 
 lilac 
 
 White 
 
 Red, orange, 
 
 yellow- 
 Purple and 
 green 
 Scarlet 
 
 4 
 3 
 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 2-3 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 2-3 
 2-3 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 3-6 
 2-3 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 50 
 3 
 
 18 
 
 Floral Firecracker (Brodiaea coccinea)... . 
 Josephine Amaryllis (Brunsvigia Jose- 
 phinse ) . 
 
 4 
 24 
 
 Mariposa Tulip (Calochortus venustus). . . 
 Glory-of-the-Snow (Chionodoxa Lu- 
 cius') 
 
 8 
 2 
 
 Meadow Saffron (Colchicum autum- 
 
 6 
 
 Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria majalis).. 
 
 Powell's Crinum (Crinum Powellii) 
 
 Spring Crocus (Crocus Susianus) 
 
 Fall Crocus (Crocus speciosus). . . 
 
 2 
 12 
 
 3-4 
 
 Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectahilis) . . . . 
 
 Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis) 
 
 Eremurus (Eremurus robustus) 
 
 36 
 
 6 
 
 48 
 
 Dog's-tooth Violet (Erythronium Dens- 
 Canis) 
 
 3 
 
 Freesia (Freesia refracta).. . 
 
 2 
 
 Crown Imperial (Fritillaria imperialis) . . 
 
 Snake's Head (Fritillaria Meleagris) 
 
 Scarlet Fritillaria (Fritillaria recurva)... . 
 
 6-8 
 4 
 6 
 
 (66) 
 
BULBS INDOORS AND OUT 
 
 Blooms 
 
 Indoors 
 
 March 
 March 
 March 
 March 
 
 Outdoors 
 
 July 
 
 May 
 
 July 
 
 March 
 
 June 
 
 Christmas 
 
 March 
 
 
 Sept. 
 
 January 
 
 May 
 
 
 July 
 
 Christmas 
 
 March 
 
 
 Sept.-Nov 
 
 March 
 
 May 
 
 
 March 
 
 
 May 
 
 
 May 
 
 Christmas 
 
 
 
 April 
 
 
 April 
 
 .... 
 
 May 
 
 Helpful Hints 
 
 Bulbs need protection over winter; they must 
 not freeze. Bulbs not ready until November. 
 
 Give rich soil and store until flower-scapes show 
 in February in temperature of 45°. 
 
 Must be given protection over winter. In- 
 doors, plant four roots in a 5-inch pot. 
 
 Indoors, give 55°. Improved varieties: Glad- 
 stone (white), Queen Alexandra (blush-pink). 
 
 Brilliant crimson, green-tipped flower, \}/2 
 inches long. Very ornam_ental. 
 
 Prepare ground for planting and mulch till 
 bulbs arrive, or pot bulbs and plant in early 
 spring. 
 
 Must be mulched to prevent freezing and thaw- 
 ing during open winters and early spring. 
 
 Plant in clumps or in line at edge of borders, or 
 on south side of house. 
 
 Scatter in lawn, or plant in clumps in front of 
 border. Flowers without leaves. 
 
 For outdoors, buy clumps; for indoors, pips. 
 Store in damp sand in a cool place. 
 
 Must be protected by a deep mulch of ashes, 
 and is not hardy in northern states. 
 
 Plant six or eight in a 6-inch pan; force in tem- 
 perature of 55°. Cloth of Gold best variety. 
 
 Place order early, and plant as soon as re- 
 ceived. They will bloom soon after planting. 
 
 Buy pot-grown roots for forcing. Force gently 
 and keep plants near the glass. 
 
 Prefers a half-shaded situation. Mark the 
 situation, so that bulbs will not be injured. 
 
 Must be planted before Sept. 1. Needs well- 
 drained soil and southern exposure. Mulch. 
 
 Prefers a light, well-drained soil; excellent for 
 rockejies or massing under shrubs. 
 
 Make first planting in August. Succession pro- 
 vided by holding plants in light, cool place. 
 
 Flowers have a fetid odor. Grow in clumps. 
 Rich, well-drained soil. 
 
 Grown in border or rock-garden, in deep, 
 sandy soil; good cut-flower. 
 
 Very different from other fritillarias, and, by 
 some, considered the best, 
 
 (67) 
 
A PLANTING TABLE FOR 
 
 Common and Botanical Names 
 
 Tender 
 
 or 
 Hardy 
 
 Color 
 
 Depth 
 
 to Plant 
 
 (In.) 
 
 Dist. 
 
 Apart 
 
 (In.) 
 
 Snowdrop (Galanthus 7iivalis).. 
 
 H 
 
 White 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 Early-flowering Gladiolus (G. Cohillei).. . 
 
 T. 
 
 Red, white 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 Christmas Rose {Hcllcborus niger) 
 
 H. 
 
 White 
 
 4 
 
 12 
 
 
 T 
 
 Red 
 
 9 
 
 6 
 
 Summer Hyacinth (//. candicans) 
 
 H. 
 
 White 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 Dutch Hyacinth ( //. orientalis) 
 
 H. 
 
 All colors 
 
 3-5 
 
 5-6 
 
 Italian Hyacinth 
 
 T. 
 
 White 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 Roman Hyacinth 
 
 H. 
 
 All colors 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 Hardy Gloxinia (Incarvillea Delavayi). . . 
 
 H. 
 
 Purplish rose 
 
 4 
 
 18 
 
 German Iris {Iris Germanica) 
 
 H. 
 
 All colors 
 
 3 
 
 18 
 
 English Iris (Iris Xiphioides) 
 
 H. 
 
 Blue, white 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 Spanish Iris (Iris Xiphiuni) . . . . 
 
 H. 
 
 Blue, yellow 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 African Corn Lily (Ixia maculata) 
 
 H. 
 
 All colors 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 Red-Hot-Poker Plant (Kniphofia spp.) . . 
 
 H. 
 
 Red 
 
 4 
 
 24 
 
 Leopard Lily (Lachenalia tricolor) 
 
 T. 
 
 Yellow, tip- 
 ped green 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 Snowflake ( Leucojum asstivum). , ... 
 
 H. 
 
 White 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 Gold-banded Lily (Lilium auratum) 
 
 H. 
 
 White 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 Meadow Lily (Lilium Canadense) 
 
 Ascension Lily (Lilium candidum) 
 
 H. 
 H. 
 
 Yellow, 
 orange, red 
 
 White 
 
 6 
 6 
 
 12 
 12 
 
 Thunberg's Lily (Lilium elegans) 
 
 H. 
 
 Yellow 
 orange, red 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 (68) 
 
BULBS INDOORS AND OUT. continued 
 
 Blooma 
 
 Indoors 
 
 Christmas 
 
 March 
 Christmas 
 
 April 
 
 
 July 
 
 January 
 
 April 
 
 January 
 
 
 Christmas 
 
 April 
 
 
 
 June 
 
 .... 
 
 May 
 
 January 
 
 June 
 
 January 
 
 May 
 
 March 
 
 June 
 
 
 August 
 
 March 
 
 Christmas 
 
 Outdoors 
 
 March 
 
 Dec.-Mch. 
 
 May 
 August 
 June 
 June 
 June 
 
 Helpful Hints 
 
 Grow in clumps in border; and, for earliest 
 flowers, on, south side of walls. 
 
 Only early varieties can be forced; others "go 
 blind." Grow in a temperature of 45° to 50°. 
 
 Needs rich, well-drained soil, and should be 
 mulched over winter. Particular as to lo- 
 cation. 
 
 Summer by plunging outdoors. Store in winter 
 in temperature of 45°. Begin forcing in Feb. 
 
 Flowers like snowdrops in spikes. Grow in 
 clumps. Need light, rich soil. 
 
 Need a rich soil for best results. Do not force 
 before the turn of the year. 
 
 Plant three to a 4-inch or six to a 6-inch pan. 
 Later than Romans. 
 
 Small-flowering Dutch hyacinths. Give the 
 same treatment and as many to a pot as 
 Italian. 
 
 Needs rich, sandy loam, and sunny, sheltered 
 situations in border. Large, trumpet flowers. 
 
 Grows in any well-drained soil. Divide fre- 
 quently to prevent crowding. Good as 
 borders or clump. 
 
 Beds must be well mulched. Needs rich, fri- 
 able loam. Excellent cut-flowers. 
 
 Beds must be well mulched. Needs well- 
 drained, sandy soil, and put sand about 
 bulbs. 
 
 Indoors, treat as freesias. Outdoors, plant in 
 November. Bulbs must not freeze. 
 
 In northern states, take up and store in damp 
 sand in a cool place over winter. 
 
 Curiously mottled leaves. Needs treatment of 
 Cape bulbs. Grow in shallow pans near 
 glass. 
 
 Prefers half shade. Green-tipped, snowdrop- 
 like flowers in clusters; 15 inches tall. 
 
 Very showy, but hard to make live over from 
 year to year. 
 
 Easily grown in border, among shrubbery or 
 naturalized in the grass. Well-drained soil. 
 
 Effective in clumps, with dark background or 
 in lines along walks in formal garden. 
 
 Prefers peaty soil, and either full sun or half 
 shade. Mulch the ground. 
 
A PLANTING TABLE FOR 
 
 Common and Botanical Names 
 
 Tender 
 
 or 
 Hardy 
 
 Color 
 
 Depth 
 
 to Plant 
 
 (In.) 
 
 Dist. 
 Apart 
 (In.) 
 
 Easter Lily {Lilium longiftorum) 
 
 Spotted Lily {Lilium speciosum) 
 
 Turk's-cap Lily {Lilium superbum) 
 
 Tiger Lily {Lilium tigrinum.) . . . 
 
 T. 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 H. 
 T. 
 T. 
 T. 
 H. 
 T. 
 H. 
 
 H. 
 H. 
 T. 
 T. 
 H. 
 H. 
 
 Wh*ite 
 
 Pink, red, 
 
 white 
 Orange, red 
 
 Red, spotted 
 
 purple 
 Blue, white 
 
 Yellow 
 Yellow, white 
 
 Yellow 
 
 White 
 
 Yellow, white 
 
 White, yellow 
 
 Crimson 
 
 White 
 
 White 
 
 Yellow 
 
 Crimson, 
 pink, white 
 
 White 
 to crimson 
 
 White 
 to crimson 
 Yellow, red 
 
 White 
 
 Blue 
 
 Blue, white, 
 pink 
 
 1 
 8 
 6 
 8 
 
 1-3 
 5 
 4 
 5 
 6 
 6 
 1 
 2 
 1 
 3 
 1 
 4 
 
 4 
 4 
 
 1 
 1 
 3 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 12 
 12 
 
 Grape Hyacinth {Muscari botryoides).. . . 
 
 2-3 
 3 
 
 Narcissus incomparabilis 
 
 6 
 
 Tonauils {Narcissus Jonquilla,) 
 
 3 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 Paper-White Narcissus {N. Tazetta). . . . 
 
 Guernsey Lily ( Nerine Sarniensis) 
 
 Arabian Star of Bethlehem {Ornitho- 
 
 3 
 6 
 3 
 
 Star of Bethlehem {Ornithogalum umbel- 
 
 6 
 
 Bermuda. Buttercup {Oxalis) 
 
 3 
 
 Late Peony {Pseonia albiflora) 
 
 48 
 
 Tree Peony {Pseonia Moutan) 
 
 48 
 
 Early Peony {Pseonia officinalis) 
 
 Persian Ranunculus {B. Asiaticus) 
 
 48 
 3 
 12 
 
 Squills {Scilla Sibirica) 
 
 4 
 
 Wood Hyacinth {Scilla Hispanica) 
 
 4 
 
 (70) 
 
BULBS INDOORS AND OUT, continued 
 
 Blooms 
 
 Indoors 
 
 February 
 
 January 
 January 
 January 
 January 
 January 
 January 
 Christmas 
 
 Christmas 
 
 March 
 All winter 
 January 
 January 
 
 Outdoors 
 
 August 
 
 July 
 August 
 
 April 
 
 April 
 
 April 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 April 
 
 Sept. 
 March 
 May 
 
 May, June 
 
 May, June 
 May 
 
 March 
 May 
 
 Helpful Hints 
 
 The best Easter lily; pot as soon as received, 
 
 and bury pots until December 1. 
 Needs light, well-drained soil. Most effective 
 
 in masses in border, with dark background. 
 Well-drained soil necessary. Excellent for 
 
 planting among rhododendrons in beds. 
 Naturalize near borders of shrubbery or along 
 
 walls in half-shaded situations. 
 Naturalize in grass in clumps. Indoors, grown 
 
 in shallow pans. 
 Needs well-drained soil and heavy mulch, as it 
 
 is not very hardy. 
 Many varieties. Divide clumps every five or 
 
 six years. Grow in clumps in border. 
 Give well-drained soil. Fragrant. Two to six 
 
 flowers on stalk. 
 Excellent for naturalizing in lawn or in masses 
 
 in border. Fragrant. 
 Very fragrant. Plant in masses in border or aa 
 
 an edging for shrubbery. 
 Easily forced for Christmas in temperature of 
 
 55° if potted up early. 
 Plants make their growth during the winter 
 
 and rest from May to August. 
 Put six bulbs in S-inch pot. Leaves need 
 
 staking. Flowers have black centers. 
 Naturalize in grass, in partially shaded places, 
 
 or plant in clumps in border. 
 Plant six to eight bulbs in 6-inch pot. For 
 
 earliest flowers, plant in August. 
 Transplant in September when growth has 
 
 ripened. Single flowers, with bunch of yel- 
 low stamens. 
 Does not flower until third year. Needs pro- 
 tected situation and mulch over winter. 
 Plant singly or in masses. Prefers half-shade. 
 
 Divide roots every five or six years. 
 Plant eight or ten in 8-inch pan; treat as Cape 
 
 bulb. Grow in coolhouse. 
 Needs rich soil and an abundance of water. 
 
 Thrive best in temperature of 55°. 
 Best early blue spring flower. Plant in clumps 
 
 in border. Prefers sandy soil. 
 Thrives in any soil. Plant in masses in rock- 
 garden or borders. 
 
 (71) 
 
A PLANTING TABLE FOR 
 
 Common and Botanical Names 
 
 Tender 
 
 or 
 Hardy 
 
 Color 
 
 Depth 
 to Plant 
 
 (In.) 
 
 Dist. 
 
 Apart 
 
 (In.) 
 
 TVandflower (Svaraxis) 
 
 T. 
 
 Red, yellow 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 Autumn Daffodil {Sternberyia lutea) 
 
 H. 
 
 Yellow- 
 
 6 
 
 G 
 
 Wake-Robin {Trillium grandiflorum) . . . . 
 
 H. 
 
 White 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 Montbretia {Tritonia crocosmae flora) 
 
 Cottage Tulip (Tulipa Gesneriana) 
 
 H. 
 H. 
 
 Orange, 
 
 crimson 
 
 All but blue 
 
 4 
 3 
 
 6 
 5 
 
 
 H. 
 
 All but blue 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 Scarborough Lily {Vallota purpurea). . . . 
 
 T. 
 
 Blood-red 
 
 1 
 
 G 
 
 (72) 
 
BULBS INDOORS AND OUT, continued 
 
 Time to 
 Force 
 
 (Weeks) 
 
 Blooms 
 
 Helpful Hints 
 
 Indoors 
 
 Outdoors 
 
 8 
 3-4 
 
 March 
 
 .... 
 
 January 
 
 Sept. 
 
 Sept. 
 May 
 
 July 
 May 
 April 
 
 Cape bulb. Plant eight to ten in an 8-inch pan 
 
 in rich soil. Needs temperature of 55°. 
 Prefer heavy soil in rather dry situation where 
 
 they can rest during summer. 
 Needs a shaded situation and a deep, rich 
 
 moist soil. Excellent for rock-gardens or 
 
 borders. 
 Hardy as far north as Massachusetts and New 
 
 York, if protected by mulch or coldframe. 
 The late or May-blooming tulip. Bedding 
 
 plant or plant in clumps in border. 
 Due Van Thol the earliest variety. Use as a 
 
 bedding plant. 
 Plant one bulb in a 6-inch pot. An evergreen. 
 
 May be stored in light cellar. 
 
 (73) 
 
Making a Bulb-Garden 
 
 The Countryside Handbooks 
 
 THE COUNTRYSIDE PRESS 
 
 HARRISBURO, PA.