TT 520 ■ R89 Copy l ft; I EMMMsMiMsfesMi^ bCllCDCflgi^gi (Afe: TEXT BOOK ....OF... THE GREAT MODERN SYSTEM COR DESIGNING AND r CUTTING LADIES' : GARMENTS. AS TAUGHT BY A. D. RUDE & SON AT... New York Cutting School NEW YORK CITY. Cleveland Cutting School CLEVELAND, OHIO. #*«? ^W*' C14C1HCNC j iji \p \j^ k^j y \|/ ^i ^> **ji ip t^j 1| j iji ip \^i *^> i|i %p %jp i|> i|i I 60640 OCT 13 1900 9e^< VbAQirw- J S£on*o cor Lfi CT 15 igo n NEW YORK, US'. V. CLEVELAND, O. II - 1^ HE DEMAND for Ladies' Tailor-made Garments is constantly on the increase and the time will soon come, in fact it is now here in many trades where as many women as men leave their measure for a suit of clothes. The one thing needful to make ladies' tailoring a success is a proper system of cutting which will produce ladies' garments that have the three cardinal virtues, namely "tit," "grace" and "beauty" and these are produced by our " Great Modern System " which we here present in book form. The system here presented is easily learned thoroughly practi- cal and cutters using it can produce a coat, waist or skirt for a woman with the same ease that they can cut a coat, vest or trousers for a man. To the hundreds of cutters who use our system for cutting Men's garments this System will prove an open book " in very truth." To those who have not used our system for Cutting Men's Garments there will be a positive pleasure in adopting this System and putting it into practical use With full faith in the future of Ladies' Tailoring as the means of largely increasing the merchant tailoring trade, and a belief that the System contained in this book will be a large means to that end, we aie, Yours fraternally, A. D. RUDE & SON. THE ENTIRE CONTENTS OF THIS VOLUMN IS PROTECTED BY COPYRIGHT. GENERAL REMARKS. AY particular attention to the name by which each line is designated and just how far each line extends. All divisions on square are measured from joint of square, except J, which is measured from extreme end of long arm. The word DRAW is used to designate all straight lines, and th^ word DRAFT for curved ones. To obtain good results imitate curves on draft as closely as possible. Whenever the word DOWN is used in connection with the divisions it means the Depth of Scye, and whenever the word ACROSS, the Bust Measure. All garments are drafted for stitched edge. When binding is used deduct % in. from edge of garment. Collars are drafted for felled edge: when turned-in seam is used add %. inch. For better comparison collars are shown together on separate pages. In places where amounts can be varied to suit style of garment desired, we would advise to use amount marked on pattern until draft is thoroughly understood. You will find it a great help to pay particular attention to the brief remarks above. s> MEASURE, s Jacket Waist or Coat Measure. First place tape under right arm holding both ends above shoulder very tight, then mark on back along and inside of tape, then under left arm and mark in same manner, then measure across back from mark to mark, take one half of this amount for width of back and add l / 2 in. for seams. Place square under right arm and mark on back on top of square, then under left arm and mark in same manner. Place square under arm so it is just easy, not too tight nor too loose, and see that the square is perfectly perpendicular. Place square across back even with these two marks and mark centre of back, then find exact length of natural waist and mark in most hollow part of back, then mark on vest collar where you wish seam of coat collar to come. 1. SLEEVE. Measure length of sleeve by placing square under arm and measure down the arm as far as cus- tomer may desire. 2. DEPTH OF SCYE. Measure from mark on waist collar, down back to mark even with bottom of armscye, and always call this measure one inch more, and so write it in measure book. 3. NATURAL V/AIST. Measure down back from mark on collar to mark at natural waist. 4. ARTIFICIAL WAIST. Measure down from mark on collar to artificial waist. Measure down from mark on collar to mark at largest part of hip. 5. LENGTH OF COAT. Measure down back from mark on collar to length of coat. 6. BUST MEASURE. Take Bust easy measure standing in rear of customer. 7. WAIST MEASURE. Measure around so as tape will fit hollow part of back and very tight. 8. HIP MEASURE. Measure around largest part of hip easy. All measures are taken over waist. TO GET INCLINE. Place straight edge against customer's back with end of straight edge just at hip line, hold- ing it firmly with left hand, then take square in right hand and measure from straight edge to waist collar, if customer is a regular form she will measure two inches, if stooping more, and if erect less. TO GET SUPPRESSION OF WAIST. Measure from straight edge to most hollow part of back. Vest Measure. Measure length of vest from centre of back on vest collar to length desired in front, and holding tape at length of vest at front, measure back, up to the opening. These measures are applied on vest the same as they are taken. For all other vest measures use waist measures. Skirt Measure. Measure around waist very tight, around hip rather easy- Take length of skirt from seam of band to floor front sides and back and add one inch to measure. For rainy day skirt measure length as desired. Application of Depth of Scye, OOQOOOOOOO Place end of tape at A 36 on square and measure down the amount of the depth of scye, on scale of E. • 'A inches depth of scye gives 24 on scale of E. 7i n 8 "J 84 8! 9 '•'! 9| lu 10.1 10f a ii ii i( ii i. ii ii 25 u tt tt ti 26 ii (( i> it •27 " ii it ii 28 i 1 it ti ii 29 << tt it ii .".(i tt it l( it :;i > t a a u ".-> it ii tt |4 *> — . 33 I. 1 1 it it 34 it ti it it 35 36 it It ti it it tt it ti o — • > i (t (4 tt ii 38 it ii ii ■< 39J 1 1 ti ti it 41 it ti tt it 12 11 < t i i (| CI t i it Therefore draft all lengths by depth of scye measure and all widths by bust measure. Always apply this measure before drafting coat or waist for any size. FLY FRONT JACKET. PLATE I. FLY FRONT JACKET. ^^r Measure* <'.'_. Width of Back. 18 Length of Sleeve. 8}4 Depth of Scye. 15 To Natural Waist. 20 To Seat and Full Length. 36 Bust Measure. 24 Waist Measure. 42 Hip Measure. 2 Incline. 2 Suppression. FOUNDATION LINES Draw construction line I — 2, measure down on baseline 1 — 2 to natural waist ( 1 •"> in.) and mark in amount of suppression 2 in. to •">. Draw line from 1 through "> and square across line 1 — 3 at right angles to line 1 — 5. Place square on draft so as stars on square will meet those on draft and mark down A32 — B32 — D32 — E32 by depth of scye measure and F3fi — G36 — H."><> 13(5 by bust measure. E is the Bust Line. Place end of tape at A and measure down 15 in. to Waist Line, and 20 in. to Hip Line, which is also the length of jacket in this case From B mark up one in. and down one in. square all lines across (except B use one in. down and one in. up instead) at right angles to line 1 — 5, and square all lines down at right angles to line 1 — .">, noting how far each line extends. BACK. Measure across width of back (<>.l in.) from line one in. above B and square down to 4. Make width of back at waist from (•"> to 7) 2 in. and square down to 31. The line from C to •"> is used as a guide line only. Mark in 2 in. at bottom of jacket same as sup- pression. The plait is f in. width. Draft curved line from A to F; from F to 6; 6 to 4; 4 through 7 and 13 to 31. SHOULDER. Mark down F .")2 from G and | in. down and : + in. forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw line from 10 to F. Measure back from 1*) width of shoul- der from F to 6 and draft curve to 11. ARM SCYE AND SIDEBODY. Mark 2 J 4 in. in from E to L on Bust Line, (for 2 in. incline) and the same amount from 4 to I 2 and from 13 to 14, from 12 to 16 is 4/ in. strong from 17 to 18 is one in. Draft curve from I I through 18 to Bust line and from 16 to Bust Line. Measure forward i- of Bust Measure (IS in. ) from L on Bust line to M and square down to N on hip line. From M measure back J> of Bust Measure to wherever it ma}' meet. Natural Waist Line marked T. Measure forward from T, 2 in. the same amount as width of back from 5 to 7, then square down to X at right angles with Waist Line. X to 21 is 1 in. Draf: curve from 12 through 14 through 19 to 21. 1 9 to 8 is 2i in., 14 to 9 is 3 in. Draw Hue from arm scye through 9 through 8 to 22. From 8 to 24 is £- in. Draw line from arm scye through 23 through 24 to 25 From 24 to 26 is 2£ in. From 23 to 27 is 2.1 in. Draw line from 27 through 26 to 28. From 26 to 29 is 1 ' + in. Draw line from 27 through 29 to 30. Measure from N to 30, 30 to 28, 28 to 25, 22 to 21, 31 to 32. You will find this gives 1 ."> in. and as .1 of hip measure is 21 add 1 1 in. from 30 to 33. 1 1 in. from 28 to 34. 1 A in. from 25 to 36 and 1 .1 in. from 22 to 35. This gives a total of 6 in. which makes pattern .1 of Hip Measure. Draft curve from 29 to 33, from 26 to 34, 24 to 36 and 8 to 35. FORE PART. From M add 2i in. for Make = up Line, and square down to Bottom Line. Mark down J 32 from Bottom Line on Make. up Line and draw line from % i 11 - below 33 to J. Add A in. at Waist Line in front of Make=up Line, and draw line through 37 and 38 from top to bottom of draft. From 10 measure down F 32 and square for- ward to Make-up Line. Draft Curve from 10 through 39. Add 1 % in. from 39 to 40 and from 41 to 42 for button stand and draw line full leugth of Draft. DOUBLE BREASTED JACKET. PLATE II. 11 FLY FRONT JACKET. Measure. Gy 2 Width of Back. 18 Length of Sleeve. 8% Depth of Scye. 15 To Natural Waist. 20 To Seat and Full Length. 36 Bust Measure. 24 Waist Measure. 42 Hip Measure. 2 Incline. 2 Suppression. FOUNDATION LINES Draw construction line 1 — 2, measure down on baseline 1 — 2 to natural waist (15 in.) and mark in amount of suppression 2 in. to 5. Draw line from 1 through 5 and square across line 1 — 3 at right angles to line 1 — 5. Place square on draft so as stars on square will me t rliose on draft and mark down A32 — B32 — D32 — E32 by depth of scye measure and F36 — G36 — H36 136 by bust measure. E is the Bust Line. Place end of tape at A and measure down 15 in. to Waist Line, and 20 in. to Hip Line, which is also the length of jacket in this case. From B mark up one in. and down one in. square all lines across (except B use one in. down and one in. up instead) at right angles to line 1 — 5, and square all lines down at right angles to line 1 — ."», noting how far each line extends. BACK. Measure across width of back (1 The line from C to 5 is used as a guide line only. Mark in 2 in. at bottom of jacket same as sup- pression. The plait is f in. width. Draft curved line from A to F; from F to 6; 6 to 4; 4 through 7 and 13 to 31. SHOULDER. Mark down F 32 from G and f in. down and %'m. forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw line from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 width of shoul- der from F to 6 and draft curve to 11. ARM SCYE AND SIDEBODY. Mark '2% in. in from E to L on Bust Line, (for 2 in. incline) and the same amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 14, from 12 to 16 is \ in. strong from 17 to 18 is one in. Draft curve from II through 18 to Bust line and from I 6 to Bust Line. Measure forward \ of Bust Measure (18 in.) from L on Bust line to M and square down to N on hip line. From M measure back \ of Bust Measure to wherever it may meet Natural Wai.^t Line marked T. Measure forward from T, 2 in. the same amount as width of back from 5 to 7, then square down to X at right angles with Waist Line. X to 21 is 1 in. Draft curve from 12 through 14 through 19 to 21. 19 to 8 is 2A in., 14 to 9 is 3 in. Draw line from arm scye through 9 through 8 to 22. From 8 to 24 is i in. Draw line from arm scye through 23 through 24 to 25. From 24 to 26 is 2 A in. From 23 to 27 is 2i in. Draw line from 27 through 26 to 28. From 26 to 29 is 1 % in. Draw line from 27 through 29 to 30. Measure from N to 30, 30 to 28, 28 to 25, 22 to 21,31 to 32. You will find this gives 15 in. and as . I of hip measure is 21 add 1 J, in. from 30 to 33. 1 \ in. from 28 to 34. 1 A in. from 25 to 36 and 1A in. from 22 to 35. This gives a total of 2 — E32 — by depth of scye measure and across F36 — G36 — H3(> — 136 by bust measure. From B mark up 1 inch and down f inch. Measure down from A, 15 in. to natural waist and 16£ in. to length of waist, square all lines across (except B use 1 in. up and f in. down instead) at right angles to line 1 — 5, and square all lines down at right, angles to line 1 — 3, noting how far each line extends. BACK. Measure across <>A in. to C and square down to 4. Make width of back at waist from (5 to 7) If in., width of back at bottom is If in. The line from C to 5 is vised as a guide line only. Draft curved line from A to F; from F to 6; 6 to 4; 4 through 13 and 7 to bottom line. SHOULDER. Mark down F 32 from G and f in. down and £ in. forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw line from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 same as width of shoulder from F to 6 and draft curve to 11. ARM SCYE AND SIDEBODY. Mark 2| in. from E to L (for 2 in. incline) and the same amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 14, from 12 to 16 is £ in. (strong) from 17 to 18 is one in. Draft curve from 11 through 18 to Bust line and from 16 to Bust Line. Measure forward I of Bust Measure (18 in.) from L on Bust line to M. '■'><> Bust Measure. 24 Waist Measure. 2 Incline. 2 Suppression. From M measure back A of Bust Measure to wherever it may meet Natural Waist Line marked T. Measure forward from T, If in. the same amount as width of back from 5 to 7, then draft curve from 12 through 14 and 19, and 20 to 21, from 20 to 21 is £ in. From 19 to 8 is 2 A in., from 14 to 9 is 3 in. Draw line from arm scye through 9 and 8 to bottom line. From 8 to 24 is f in. Draw line from arm scye through 23 and 24 to bottom line. From 24 to 26 is 2i in. From 23 to 27 is 2.V in. Draw line from 27 through 26 to bottom line. From 26 to 29 is f in. Draw line from 27 through 29 to bottom line. Add spring from 8, 24, 26 and 29 to bottom line. FORE PART. Measure forward from M 2A in. for Make- up Line, and square up and down at right angles to Bust Line. Mark down F 32 from 10 and square forward to Make=up Line. Draft curve from 10 to 40. Drop 1 in. from K and draw Waist Line from T to R. Measure forward from T, 1 \ in. more than A of waist measure to N. From N add 2 in. for Make= up to P. Take out amount from P to R (4 in. in this case), with two darts. Make small dart 1 in. and large dart 2 in., which allowing 1 in. for seams of darts makes 4 in. Square down from 18 for 22. O is A of dis- tance from 22 to 25. Top of dart is 2 A in. from O. When it is desired to button waist to neck, hold tape at x (half way between 14 and 9) and sweep from 25 to 28. Mark down F from bottom line on make-up line. Draw line from 30 to F and draft curve from waist line on Make=up Line through R out A in. to bottom of waist. ' For lapel waist or jacket waist, measure down 4 to 5 in. from 40 and draw lapel line from this point to 10. WAIST FOR STOUT LADY. PLATE V. 17 WAIST FOR STOUT LADY. -^8^ Measure* 18 9 A 15i 17 Width of Back. Length of Sleeve. Depth of Scye. To Natural Waist. To Length of Waist. CONSTRUCTION LINES. Measure down on base line 1 — 2 to natural waist (1.">A in.) and mark in amount of suppression 1 A in. to 5. Draw line from 1 through 5 and square across line 1 — 3 at right angles to line 1 — 5. Place square on draft with stars to meet and mark down A36 — Bo(i — D36 — E36 — by depth of scye measure and across P42 — G42 — H42 — 142 by bust measure. From B mark up 1 inch and down 1 inch. Measure down from A, L5A in. to natural waist and 1 7 in. to length of waist, square all lines across (except B use 1 in. up and 1 in. down instead) at right angles to line 1 — 5, and square all lines down at right angles to line 1 — 3, noting how far each line extends. BACK. Measure across 7 A in. to C and square down to 4. Make width of back at waist from (."> to 7) 2 in., width of back at bottom is 2 in. The line from C to ."> is used as a euide line only. Draft curved line from A to F; from F* to 6; 6 to 4; 4 through 13 and 7 to bottom line. SHOULDER. Mark down F 36 from G and £ in. down and 4, iu. forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw line from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 same as width of shoulder from F to 6 and draft curve to 11. ARM SCYE AND SIDEBODY. Mark in. from E to L (for 2 in. incline) and the same amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 16 is in. (strong) from 17 to 14, from 12 to 18 is one in. Draft curve from 11 through 18 to Bust line and from 16 to Bust Line. Measure forward A of Bust Measure (21 in.) from L on Bust line to M. 42 Bust Measure. '"><> Waist Measure. 2 Incline. 1 s Suppression. From M measure back A of Bust Measure to wherever it may meet Natural Waist Line marked T. Measure forward from T, 2 in the same amount as width of back from 5 to 7, then draft curve from 12 through 14 and 19, and 20 to 21, from 20 to 21 is f in. From 19 to 8 is 2 A in., from 14 to 9 is 3| in. Draw line from arm scye through 9 and 8 to bottom line. From 8 to 24 is A in. Draw line from arm scye through 23 and 24 to bottom line. From 24 to 26 is 2 A in. From 23 to 27 is 2 A in. Draw line from 27 through 26 to bottom line. From 26 to 29 is A in. Draw line from 27 through 29 to bottom line. From 29 to 30 is 2 1 , in., from 27 to 28 is 2 in. Draw line from 28 through 30 to bottom line. From 30 to 31 is J > in. Draw line from 28 through 31 to bottom line. Add spring from 8, 24, 26, 29, 30 and 31 to bottom line. FORE PART. Measure forward from M 2 A in. for Make- up Line, and square up and down at right angles to Bust Line. Mark down F 36 from 10 and square forward to Make=up Line. Draft curve from 10 to 32. Drop 1 in. from R and draw Waist Line from T. Measure forward from T, 1A in. more than % of waist measure to N. From N add 2 in. for Make= up to P. From P add .'i 1 . in. to R and take out this amount with two darts, (small dart f in. and large dart If in., and 1 in. for seams of darts). When it is desired to button waist to neck, hold tape at x (half way between 14 and 9) and sweep from 33 to 34. Mark down F from bottom line on make-up line. Draw line from Side Seam to F and draft curve from Waist Line through R out A in. to bottom of waist. For waists where edges just meet take off A in. entire length of front. HALF FITTING BOX COAT. PLATE VL 19 HALF FITTING BOX COAT. •^ Measure. u 15 20 28 Width of Back. Depth of Scye. To Natural Waist. To Hip Line. Long. FOUNDATION LINES Draw construction line 1 — 2, 'and using this line as a base line square across line 1 — 3. Place square on draft so as stars on square will meet those on draft and mark down A32 — Bo'-' — Do2 — B3- by depth of scye measure and Foil — G-">'i — H H ( J 136 by bust measure. From B mark up one in. Place end of tape at A and measure down 15 in. to Waist Line, 20 in. to Hip Line, and 28 in. to Bottom Line or whatever length may be desired. Square all lines across at right angles to line 1 — 2 (except B square this line 1 in. above B) and down at right angles to line I — 3, noting how far each line extends. BACK. Measure across width of back (<>i in.) on line one in. above B to C and square down to 4. Mark 1A in. back from 4 to 5 and square down 5 to Hip Line. From C to 6 is A in., from 7 to 8 is 1 A in. Draw a line from F to 6. Draft curve A to F; from F to 6; 6 to 4; 4 through 9 through 8 to Bottom Line. SHOULDER. Mark down F 32 from G, and f in. down and I in. forward from I to 10. (For 2 in. incline) Measure back from I width of shoulder from F to <> and draft curve to 1 1 . ARM SCYE. Mark 2£ in. forward from E to L on Bust Line (for 2 in. incline) from 4 to 12 is i in., from 13 to 14 is 1 in,, from 1 2 to 15 is 3- in. Draft curve from 1 1 through 18 to Bust Line and from 15 to Bust Line. 36 Bust Measure. 24 Waist Measure. 42 Hip Measure. 2 Incline. SIDE SEAM. From L measure forward A of Bust Meas- ure (IS in.) on Bust Line to M, and square down to N on Hip Line. Deduct amount from 20 to 8 (width of back) from h of Hip Measure and apply result from N back to K on Hip Line. From 9 to 21 is 2 in. Draft curve from 12 through 14throughh21 and K to Bottom Line. From 22 to 23 is 1A in., this is cut out to give spring over hip. FRONT. From M add 2A in. for Make-up and square to Bottom Line. From 24 to 25 is f in. Draw line through 26 through 25 entire length of draft for Hake=up Line. From 10 measure down F 32 and square forward to flake=up Line, and draft curve from 10 to 27. From 27 to 28 is J in., and from 28 to 29 is A in. from 30 to 31 is 1 in., draw line from 31 through j in. above 28 to 32. From 28 to 32 is 3A in., cut out V between 28 and 29. Mark down J from bottom line on flake= up Line and draw line from 35 through J. Add •"> in. in front of Hake=up Line at Bust Line and Hip Line and draw line entire length of coat. Draft curve from 32 through 32 and 34 to bottom of coat. The top button is placed <> in. down from 27. Space for three buttons . Draft curve A to F; from F to 6; 6 to 4; 4 through 9 through 8 to Bottom Line. SHOULDER. Mark down F ?>2 from G, and f- in. down and i in. forward from I to 10. (For 2 in. incline) Measure back from I width of shoulder from F to (i and draft curve to 1 1 . ARM SCYE. Mark 2| in. forward from E to L on Bust Line (for 2 in. incline) from 4 to 12 is 2£ in., draw line from 12 through K to Bottom Line. From 12 to 15 is j in. Draft curve from 1 1 through 18 to Bust Line and from 15 to Bust Line. 36 Bust Measure. 24 Waist Measure. 42 Hip Measure. 2 Incline. SIDE SEAM. From L measure forward i of Bust Meas- ure (IS in.) on Bust Line to M, and square down to N on Hip Line. Deduct amount from 20 to 8 (width of back) from i of Hip Measure and apply result from N back to K on Hip Line. Draft curve from 12 through K to Bottom Line. FRONT. From M add 2 A in. for Make-up and square to Bottom Line. From 24 to 25 is f in. Draw line through 26 through 25 entire length of draft for riake=up Line. From 10 measure down F 32 and square forward to Hake=up Line, and draft curve from 10 to 27. From 27 to 28 is f in., and from 28 to 29 is h in. from 30 to 31 is 1 in., draw line from 31 through i in. above 28 cut out V between 28 and 29. Mark down J from bottom line on Hake= up Line and draw line from 35 through J. Add :'> in. in front of Hake=up Line at Bust Line and Hip Line and draw line entire length of coat. The top button is placed 7 in. down from 27. Space for three buttons 'i in. apart and .'> in. back from edge. Sleeve notch is always placed % in. down from 18. These coats are usually left open at the side from x. AUTOMOBILE COAT. Draft Automobile Coat on page 22 same as Full Box Coat, plate vn, except to draw line from 3 through 28 and from 15 through 28 to 32. From 28 to 32 is 7 to 1\ in. Draft lapel as desired. AUTOMOBILE COAT, PLATE VIIL 2a SLEEVE. PLATE IX. Measure size of arm seye of coat, waist, or jacket pattern and draft sleeve '2 in. less where plain sleeve is desired or draft sleeve same size of arm seye if extra fulness is desired in sleeve head. First fold paper evenly on construction line 1—2. Measure back \ of sleeve and A of sleeve from x on line 1 — 3 to points 3 — 4. Square down lines 3 and 4 at right angles to line 1 — 3. Measure down J (depth of seye) from 1 and add 1 in. (point 6). Place fore part on sleeve so as notch of fore part will meet notch on sleeve (point 6) and trace the arm seye of fore part from 6 to 7 on sleeve pattern. Point 7 is 1A in. from construction line. Point 8 is 1A in. from point 2. Measure down the length of sleeve from 7 on line 7 — 8 and add 1 in. Always measure lady at wrist and elbow. Measure back from point 2, half amount desired at wrist and measure back from point T half of amount desired at elbow to L. From line 1-3 square down from 4. Measure back A in. to star. Hold at star and sweep from 6 through 3 for head of sleeve. Measure in '1 in. from point 3 to 12 and draft curve to 7. From 12 to 13 is 1 in. and from 13 to 14 is { in. from 3 to 5 is 1 in. Draft curve from 5 one quarter in. outside of L to 10 and draft curve from 14 one quarter in. inside of L to 10. Hollow sleeve \\ in. on each side of T and draft curved lines from 7 to 8. Cuff is in addition to length of sleeve and may be drafted to suit. RAGLAN. PLATE X. 25 RAGLAN. PLATE XL First draft Full Box Coat same as plate, vn., except 24 to 28 inches long, omit peak of lapel and add 2 in. from 19 to 20 and 2 in. from 21 to 22 draw line up and down full length of draft through 20 and 22 and square line from 4 to Hip Line instead of from 5 to Hip Line. BACK. 1 1 is | in. from C, 10 is 3 in. from C, 5 is & in. from 13, R is i- in. from 5. Draft curve from F through 11 and 10, and 4 to R, and from R through line 13 — 7 at waist line and through 8 to bottom of draft. FORE PART. Draw line from f in. below I to 18 and draft curve. RAGLAN SLEEVE. PLATE XI. First draft regular sleeve. From 4 to 9 is i in. Square up from 9 and measure up from 1 1 same amount as width of shoulder from F to 6. Draw line from 15 to 3 and from 15 to 6 curve from 15 to 3 and from 15 to 6. INCLINES. PLATE XII. NO INCLINE. 2% UU 53 o UJ ONE INCH INCLINE. TWO INCH INCLINE. N< •* ^1 NO INCLINE. Measure forward 2| in. from E for point L, and 2| in. from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 14. Mark back from I £ in. on line I — 3 and drop \ in. for point 10. ONE I NCH INC LINE. Measure forward from E "-'i in. for point L and 2 A in. from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 14. Mark down i in. from I for point 10. viy\ /b T WO INCH IN CLINE. Measure forward 2\ in. from E for point L and same amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 14. Mark down f in. and forward ^ in. for point 10. © INCLINES. PLATE XIII. THREE INCH INCLINE. a: q ** FOUR INCH INCLINE. a: sa ^1 GRADED INCLINES. THREE INCH INCLINE ^^ Measure forward 2 in. from E for point L and same amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 14. Mark down 1 in. from I and forward A in. for point 10. ^^T FOUR INCH INCLI NE. Measure forward If in. from E for point L and the same amount from 4 to 12 and irom 13 to 14. Mark down 1| in. from I and forward f in. for point 10. ♦ *<; Bust Measure. 24 Waist Measure. 42 Hip Measure. 2 Incline. 2 Suppression. From 19 to 21 is 2.1 in., from 14 to 9 is 3 in., draw line from Arm Scye through 9 and 21 to Bottom Line, from 21 to 24 is f in., draw line from Arm Scye through 23 and 24 to Bottom Line. From 24 to 26 is 2 1 , in., from 23 to 27 is 'iy 2 in. Draw line from 27 through 26 to Bottom Line. From 26 to 29 is f in., draw line from 27 through 29 to 30. Add spring from 21, 24, 26 and 29. FORE PART. Measure forward from M 2 in. for i*lake=up and square down to Fashionable Waist Line at right angles to Bust Line. Hold tape at X (A- of distance between 14 and 9) and sweep from 25 to 28. Mark down F 32 from 10 and square forward through sweep- line. Draft curve from 10 through 28. Measure forward from T 1 A in. more than A of waist measure to N. From N add 2 in. for flake=up to P, take out amount from P to R (3i in. in this case) with two darts make small dart f in. and large dart If in., which allowing 1 in. for seams of darts makes 3 A in. O is half of distance from 22 to 25. Top of large dart is 2A in. from O. Mark down F from Fashionable Waist Line on Hake=up Line and draw line from 30 to F — 31 is f up, from F draft curved line through 31 to 32. Width of lapel at bottom is 2 in, If in. at Waist, •">! in. at Bust and '.\ in. at Peak. Draft lapel from peak through bust waist and fashionable waist to bottom of draft. SKIRT. Draw line from 20 to 32, from 20 to 33 is 2 in., square down from 33 at right angles to line 20 — 32 to bottom of skirt 34. Measure down 12 in. from 33 on line 33 — 34 for spring, and measure back 4 in. from X when Hip measures 6 in. more than Bust and add or deduct 1, in. from this amount for each in the Hip is larger or smaller than Bust. Draft curve from 33 through 35 to bottom of skirt. Length from 33 to 37 is the same as from 8 to 38. Square line from 34 to front of skirt at right angles to line 33 — 34. From 39 to 40 is 2 in., draft curve from 33 through 40 to 32. From 41 to 42 is 2 in., draft curve from 37 through 42 to front of skirt. LADIES' CUTAWAY COAT PLATE XV. 38 LADIES' CUTAWAY COAT. Measure. G{ Width of Back. 18 Length of Sleeve. Si Depth of Scye. 1 ■"' To Natural Waist. Hi'. To Fashionable Waist. 30 To Length of Coat. FOUNDATION LINES Measure clown on base line 1 — 2 to Natural Waist (15 in.) and mark in amount of suppression 2 in. to 5. Draw line from 1 through 5 and square across line 1—3 at right angles to line 1—5? Place square on draft with stars to meet and mark down A32— B32— D32— E32 by Depth of Scye Measure and across F36— G36— H36— 136 by Bust Measure. J From B mark up 1 in. and down f inch Place end of tape at A and measure down 1 5 in to Natural Waist Line, nil i„. to Fashionable Waist Line, and 30 for full length of coat. Square all lines across (except B use 1 in up and | m. dowu instead) at right angles to line 1—5 and square all lines down at right angles to line 1 — 3, noting how far each line extends. BACK. Measure across 6* in. to C and square down to 4. make width of back at waist (from 5 to 7) If in. and square down to bottom of draft at right angles to Waist Line. The line from C to 5 is used as a guide line only. C to 6 is h in. Draw line from F to 6 curve line from A to F; F to 6; 6 to 4; and from 4 through 13 to 7. Mark in 1 in. from 2 and draw line from 16A to 1, plait is U in. in width. SHOULDER. _ Mark down F 32 from G, and f in. down and i m forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw line from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 same amount as width of shoulder from F to 6 and draft curve to 11. ARM SCYE AND SIDE BODY. Mark 24. in. from E to L (for 2 in. incline) and the same amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 14. From 12 to 16 is i in., from 17 to 18 is 1 in. Draft curve from 1 1 through 18 to Bust Line and from 16 to Bust Line. Measure forward A of Bust Measure (IS in.) from L on Bust Line to M, from M measure back A of Bust Measure to wherever it may meet Natural Waist Line at T 36 24 42 2 2 Bust Measure. Waist Measure. Hip Measure. Incline. Suppression. Measure forward from T If i„. the same amount as width of back from 5 to 7 then draft curve from 12 through 14 and 19 to 20 From 19 to 21 is 2* in., from 14 to 9 is 3 m. draw line from Arm Scye through 9 and 21 to Bottom Line, from 21 to 24 is f in., draw line from Arm Scye through 23 and 24 to Bottom Line From 24 to 26 is 2y 2 in., from 23 to 27 d :Y 2 U l. Draw lme from 27 through 26 to Bottom Line. From 26 to 29 is f in . * draw line from 27 through 29 to 30. Add spring from 21, 24, 26 and 29. FORE PART. Measure forward from M 2 in. for riake=up and square down to Fashionable Waist Line at right angles to Bust Line. Mark down F 32 from 10 and square forward to nake=up Line. Draft curve from 10 through 28. Measure forward from T H in. more than \ of waist measure to N. From N add 2 in for Hake-up to P. The amount from P to R is Si in. in this case. Take out \ of this amount with bias dart for half fitting or entire amount with two darts for glove fitting. Mark down F from Fashionable Waist Line on Hake=up Line and draw line from 30 to F From 28 to 29 is 1 in. and from R to K is 1 in., draw line from 29 to K. Draft curve from 29 \ in. inside of K and F to bottom of draft. SKIRT. Draw line from 20 to F, from 20 to 33 is 2 in ., square dowu from 33 at right angles to line 2U — 32 to bottom of skirt 34. Measure down 12 in. from 33 on line 33— 34 for spring, and measure back 4 in. from x when Hip measures 6 in. more than Bust and add or deduct | in. from this amount for each in the Hip is larger or smaller thau Bust. Draft curve from 33 through 35 to bottom of skirt. Length from 33 to 37 is the same as from 8 to 38. Square line forward from 34 at right angles to line 33—34. From 39 to 40 is 2 in draft curve from 33 through 40 to F. in h < a. > X P < 35 JACKET WAIST. PLATE XVI. Measure <;:. Width of Back. 1 8 Length of Sleeve. U Depth of Scye. Hi J, Artificial Waist. Draft same as Double Breasted Frock, plate XIV., except to omit skirt and make length 1 \ in. longer than Fashionable Waist length. 18 Full Length. 36 Bust Measure. 24 Waist Measure. 2 Incline. 2 Suppression. ETON JACKET. PLATE XVII. Measure. lii Width of Back. 8£ Depth of Scye. 15 To Natural Waist. 16 Full Length. Draft same as Vest, plate xyiii, page 3f>, except do not hollow back at 15 and mark \ in. from 7 to x. From 12 to M is one-fourth of Bust Measure and 2 in. Mark down F — 32 from 10 and add 1 in. and square across to T. Draft curve from 10 to T and sweep from M to T. 36 Bust Measure. 24 Waist Measure. 2 Incline. From P add 2 in. to K and take out dart of U in. 7 is \\ in. below Waist Line, draft curve from M through K to 7 and from 6 to 7. When sidebody is desired \\ in. dart is taken out at 4 and curved lines drafted from 8 to bot- tom of draft. When glove fitting Eton is desired it should be drafted same as Glove Fitting Waist, plate IV., page 14, with lapel and front to suit style desired. X w H -) 0, S PQ W -J PQ 5 o Q Ol, 37 SINGLE BREASTED VEST. PLATE XVIII. Measure 23 Length. 10 Opening. -Si Depth of Scye. 1 •") To Natural Waist. FOUNDATION LINES. Draw construction line 1 — 2 and square across line 1 — 3. Place square on draft with stars to match and mark down A32— B32— D32— E32— by Depth of Scye Measure and across F36 — G-'Wi — H36 — 136 by Bust Measure. Measure down 1 •"> in. from A for Waist Line and HiA in. for length of back. Mark up 1 in. from B and square all lines across at right angles to line I — 2 (except B square 1 in. above instead) and down at right angles to line 1 — 3, noting how far each line extends. BACK. Measure across <>A in. on line 1 in. above B to C and square down to 4, 6 is A in. from C. Draw line from F to 6. Measure forward from E one-fourth of Bust Heasure net (point 5), square down 5 at right angles to Bust Line. Through 7 to 8 from 7 to x is A in. and from 15 to x is 1 in., draw line from 5 through X to bottom line and add spring from x to bottom line. Draft curve from A through E and x to bottom line and from A to F, F to 6, 6 through 4 to 5. HI. I Back Length. •"><; Bust Measure. 24 Waist Measure. 2 Incline. FORE PART. From G measure down F 32, 10 is f in. down and \ in. forward from I. Measure back from I \ in. less than width of back from F to 6 and draft curve to 11. 13 is A in. forward from 10. Measure forward from 5 2] in. (for 2 in. in- cline) and square clown to bottom of draft. From 14 to 15 is \{ in., draw line from 12 through 15 to bottom of draft and add spring from 15. Measure forward from 12 one quarter of Bust Measure and add 2 A in. (point M) and square M down to bottom of draft. O is 1 in. from N, draft curve from K to O. Measure distance from A to F, place this amount at 10, measure down length of Vest and add 1 in. (point O) and back up to the opening. Hold tape at L and sweep from M to T. Draft curve from 1 I through 18 to Bust Line. Measure from x to x on back, place this amount at 15 and measure across half of waist to N, from N to P is 2 in. From P to K is 4 A in. Take out two darts one of 1 in. and one of 2A in., this with 1 in. for seams of dart makes 4 A in. Draw line from 30 to N and from O to 3 1 , draft curve as desired from dart to 31. DOUBLE BREASTED VEST. PLATE XIX. Draft same as Single Breasted Vest, plate XVIII, except to make 12 to M 2 in. instead of 2A in. Make lapel from M to 5 .">A in. and If in, from O to 6. Mark up 1 in. to 20 for seam of lapel. NEWMARKET, PLATE XX. 39 NEWMARKET. Measure. 6 A Width of Back. 18 Length of Sleeve. 81 Depth of Scye. 15 To Natural Waist. HI A To Artificial Waist. FOUNDATION LINES. Draw construction line 1 — 2. Measure clown on base line 1 — 2 to Natural Waist (15 in.) and mark in amount of suppression 2 in. to •">. Draw line from 1 through 5 and square across line 1 — 3 at right angles to line I — 5. Place square on draft with stars to meet and mark down A32— B32— D32— E32 by Depth of Scye Measure and F 36— G 36— H 36—1 36 by Bust Measure. Place end of tape at A and measure down 15 in. to Natural Waist Line, 16 A in. to Fashionable Waist Line, 20 in. to Hip Line and 56 in. to Bottom Line. From B mark up 1 in. and down inch. Square all lines across (except B use 1 in. up 56 Full Length of Back. •").") Full Length of Front (from 39 to 46). 36 Bust Measure. 24 Waist Measure. 42 Hip Measure. Measure forward A of Bust Measure (18 in.) from L on Bust Line to M and square down to N on Hip Line. From M measure back h of Bust Measure to wherever it may meet Natural Waist Line marked T. Measure forward from T If in. the same amount as width of back from 5 to 7, then square down to x at right angles to Waist Line, x to 21 is 1 in., 54 to 55 is 1A in. Draft curve from 12 through 14, 19 and 21 to 55. From 19 to 8 is 2 J, in., from 14 to 9 is 3 in., draw line from Arm Scye through 9 and 8 to 22, from 8 to 24 is f in., draw line from Arm Scye through 23 and 24 to 25. Measure from N to 25, 22 to 21 and from and | in. down instead) at right angles to line 1 — 5 31 to 32, you will find this gives 17 m. and as and down at right angles to line 1 — 3, noting how far each line extends. BACK. Measure across width of back (<>A in.) on line 1 in. above B to C and square down to 4. 6 to C is \ in. Make width of back at waist (from 5 to 7 1 If in. and square down through 31 to bottom of draft at right angles to Waist Line. The line from C to 5 is used as a guide line onlv. 54 is 1 in. from 56, draw line from Artificial Waist (16£ in.) to 54. Plait is 1 J. in. wide which allows for turning in f in. for facing. Draw line from F to 6, draft curved line from A to F; F to 6; 6 to 4; and 4 to 7. SHOULDER. Mark down F -">2 from G, and £ in. down and j in. forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw line from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 width of shoulder from F to 6 and draft curve to 11. ARM SCYE AND SIDEBODY. Mark 2J in. from F to L on Bust Line (for 2 in. incline) and the same amount from 4 to 12 and 13 to 14. From 12 to 16 is \ in. strong from 17 to 18 is 1 in. Draft curve from 1 1 through 18 to Bust Line and from 16 to Bust Line. half of Hip Measure is 21, add li in. from 25 to 36 and 2| in. from 22 to 35. Draft curve from 8 through 35 to bottom of draft and from 24 through 22 to bottom of draft. From 23 to 27 is -)i in. from 24 to 26 is 3 in. Draft curve from 27 through 26 to 30. Hip Line from 26 to 29 is \\ 27 through 29 to 30. draft curve from FORE PART. From M add 2A in. for Hake=up Line and square down to Hip Line. Hold tape at star (half way between 14 and 9) and sweep from 37 to 39. From 10 measure down F 32 and square for- ward to Hake=up Line. From 39 to 40 is A in. Draw line from 11 through 18 to O, from O to P is 2 1 , in., draw line from P through 40 to 41 for peak of lapel, from 40 to 41 is :'>.V in. From 42 to 43 is 1 in. Draft curve from K at Waist Line through 43 to Bottom of Draft. From 43 to 44 and from 37 to 45 is 3 in. draft curve from 41 through 45 and 44 to Bottom of Draft. Measure front length on lady from front collar button to bottom of skirt and apply amount you get from 39 through 37, K and 43 to Bottom of Draft, 46 and draft curve from 55 to 46. FULL LENGTH BOX COAT. PLATE XXJ. 41 ^ at HOOD, dt <£ +i-.sV *-.:>•:..* PLATE XXII. Measure 36 Bust Measure. 2o Measure over Head. This measure is taken from collar seam at shoulder point over head to shoulder point. Draw construction line I — 2 and square across 1 — 3, from I measure forward F 36, square down F at right angles to line 1 — 3. From 1 measure down C 36 and mark up \% in. to point 4, from 4 measure down half the amount over head, square line C and 2. From x, measure across C 36 to Y, from 2 measure across D 36, from D mark down F 36. From 1 to 7 is 1 in., from 7 to 8 is f in., from 5 to 6 is f in. Draft curve from 8 through line 1—3 and Y to F, from 8 through 6 to 4 and from 2 to F. COLLARS. Draft brake line from edge of coat at first button through point 10, add width of top of back from A to F and Jin. (amount from 10 to I), make stand from 1 to 2 one and half in. and leaf from 1 to 3 two to three inches. Draft curve from 2 meeting gorge line at brake to 4, point 4 is % in. below gorge line, from 4 to 5 is according to style. Draft line from 3 to 5. *J*tJt"t* AUTOMOBILE COLLAR. Draw construction line 1 — 2, from 2 to 3 is 1^ in., from 3 to 4 is 1 in., from 3 to 5 is % in. more than neck gorge (plate rv), from 28 to 10 and F to A. From 5 to 6 is 1 ', in., from 5 to 1 2 is My, in. Draft curve from 12 to 4 and from 6 to 4, draw line from 4 through 2 to 9, square line from 5 through 6 to 7, from 7 to 8 is 2 in., draft line from 8 through 7 to 9, 11 is 4.1 in. from 7, draw line from 11 to 12 and add H in. on each side of 1 1, draft curve from 2 to 14 as desired. ^ * FULL LENGTH BOX COAT. Draft same as plate vn, page 20, except 56 in. back length and .")."> in. front length (to bottom of dress) Mark 36 in. F from R and draft curve from Bust Line i in. inside of waist line through 20 to F, mark E 36 from R and draft curve from 4, one quarter inch inside of 9 through 7 to E. From 13 to 14 is :i in. square line to hip line from 14 and take out dart of 1^ in. at Waist Line. w Waist Band 2 tin. tin. & dt SHIRT WAIST. a s •w*SOS**» For Silk, Wool, or Washable Goods, PLATE XXIV. 43 Measure 18 Length of Sleeve. 8^ Depth of Seve. 1 < J A Full Length. Draw line 1 — 2 and using this line as a base square across line 1 — 3. Place square on draft with stars to meet and mark down A32— B32— D32— E32 by Depth of Scye neasure and across F36 — Go in., from 9 to 10 is H in. and from V to 11 is 2 in. 43 Front Length. 44 Side Length. 45 Back Length. WAIST MEASURE. Apply Waist Measure from C to 7, 8 to 9, 10 to V and II to R, this should give 1 % in. more than half of waist measure, provided it measures more make darts larger, should it measure less make darts smaller. Measure Side Length from Y to 44, measure Back Length from R, or line N to 45, from 45 to 46 is -'5 in., for trail make this more or less as desired. Draft curve from 43 through 44 to 45. From R to 4 is 3 in. and from 45 to 47 is 3 in., this is for Plait, should separate plait be placed on top cut out on line from R through N to Bottom of Draft. For Circular Skirt open goods and place this pattern with 43 — 47 lengthwise of goods. Mark line on goods from C to 43 and around entire pattern. Then turn pattern over so that C and 43 will meet and mark around entire pattern on opposite side. This makes only one seam in skirt, namely from 4 to 47 with plait, or from R to 45 without plait. FIVE-GORED SKIRT. PLATE XXVI. ZSitt. 6 In. 47 FIVE GORED SKIRT. y^: 24 Waist Measure. 41 Hip Measure. Measure 4."> Front Length. 44 Side Length. 45 Back Lengili. FOUNDATION LINES. Draw construction line I — 2 and using this as a base, square across line 1 — 3. Mark down C24 (by Waist Measure) from 1, mark across C24 from 1, C across 24 again from C, B24 from C and C24 from B by Waist Measure. Place end of tape at C and measure down <; in., and 25 in. (all sizes) and 43 in. full length. Square all lines across at right angles to line 1 — 2 and down at right angles to line I — 3, noting how far each line extends. From L measure across half of Hip fleasure (20 A in.) to M. From M to N is 13 in. (all sizes). From O mark across C41 to P (by Hip Heasure.) Draw line from D through P to bottom of draft. Draw line from R through N to bottom of draft. Draft curve from C to K. From T to V is f in. Draft curve from K through V to R. DARTS. From 7 to 8 is 3 in. and from 9 to 10 is 2 in. WAIST MEASURE. Apply Waist Measure from C to 7, 8 to 9, 10 to R, this should give l 1 , in. more than half of waist measure, provided it measures more make darts larger, should it measure less make darts smaller. Draw line from T to 44 (this can be varied to suit making back or side gore larger or smaller). Measure Side Length from T to 44, measure Back Length from R, or line N to 45, from 45 to 46 is 3 in. for trail, make this more or less as desired. Add plait from R and 45 of whatever width desired or cut through on line R N to 45 and put on separate plate. Draft curve from 43 through 44 to 45. For curved or flounced effect mark in f in. on each side of P and N and A in. inside of 48, add 1 in. on each side of 44 and 47 and outside of 45 and draft curve accordingly. SEVEN GORED SKIRT. PLATE XXVII. 25171. 6irv. SEVEN GORED SKIRT. 49 Tffi^ Measure '24 Waist Measure. 41 Hip Measure. FOUNDATION LINES. Draw construction line 1 — 2 and using this as a base, square across line 1 — 3. Mark down C24 (by Waist Measure) from 1, mark across C24 from 1, C across '24 again from C, Bi'4 from C and C24 from B by Waist Measure. Place end of tape at C and measure down 6 in., and 2."> in. (all sizes) and 43 in. full length. Square all lines across at right angles to line 1 — 2 and down at right angles to line 1 — 3, noting how far each line extends. From L measure across half of Hip Pleasure U'o.l in.) to M. From M to N is 1.3 in. (all sizes). From O mark across C41 to P (by Hip Heasure.) Draw line from D through P to bottom of draft. Draw line from R through X to bottom of draft. Draft curve from C to K. From T to Y is f in. Draft curve from K through V to R. DARTS. From 7 to 8 is 3 in. and from 9 to 10 is 2 in. 4."> Front Length. 44 Side Length. 45 Back Length. WAIST MEASURE. Apply Waist Measure from C to 7, 8 to 9, 10 to R, this should give \ 1 2 in. more than half of waist measure, provided it measures more make darts larger, should it measure less make darts smaller. Measure Side Length from T to 44, measure Back Length from R, or line N to 45, from 45 to 46 is 3 in. for trail, make this more or less as desired. Draft curve from 43 through 44 to 45. Draw line from K to 47 from half wav between 9 and 10 through M to 44 and from half way between V and 11 through 40 to 41, take out f in. on each side of P, W and 40 and inside of 48 add 4 in. on each side of 47, 44, 41 and outside of 45 and draft curves accordingly. SPECIAL NOTICE. When skirt pattern is placed on goods cut so that a bias edge will seam with a straight edge except in centre of back. k > H m td # O < CO w l-H » H 51 <£ dt DIVIDED SKIRT. ^ ^ PLATE XXVIII. Measure 22 Waist Measure. 41 Hip Measure. 33 Length. CONSTRUCTION LINES. Draw line 1 — 2 and using this as a base square across line 1 — 3. From 2 to L is one-half of Hip Measure \20h in.) and from L to M is 1 in. Draw line from 1 through M to bottom of draft. From 1 to 4 is one-half of Waist Pleasure (12 in.), from 4 to 5 is 1 in. less than one-fourth of Waist Measure (5 in.), from 5 to 6 is one-eighth of Waist Measure (3 in.), from to 7 is one-third of Waist Pleasure (8 in.) from 7 to 3 is H in., from 4 to 8 is one-fourth of Waist Measure ((I in.) and the same amount from 5 to 9, from 8 to 10 is one-sixth of Waist Measure (4 in.), from 10 to 11 is 1 in., from 6 to 12 is one-eighth of Waist Measure (3 in.) Draft curve from 1 through 8 to 1 1 and from 9 to 12 and from 12 to 7. From 13 to 14 is 2 in., from 15 to 16 is li in., from 17 to 8 is 1 in. Measure Waist from 14 to 1 5, 16 to 17, 8 to 1 1 and from 9 to 12. This should measure half of Waist Pleasure (12 in.) and 2 in. for seams (14 in.) should it measure more make darts larger and if it should measure less make darts smaller. From 1 to 13 is width of fore part this is not included in waist measure as it is placed on top of skirt, to be buttoned down seam 14 — 28 so as to be taken off at will. From 12 to 7 is for plaits. Square across from 2 through 19 and 20 at right angles to lines 1 — 2. From 19 to 20 is ' 2 of Hip Measure (2o.l in.) from 20 to 21 is •"> in. Draw line from 3 through 21 to bottom of draft. From 19 to 22 is ' b th of waist measure (3 in.), from 23 to 24 is 1 in., from 22 to 25 is B — 24 by waist measure on square. Draft curve from 1 1 through 25 to 19 and from 9 through 24 to 19. Measure length of skirt on line I — M to 33. Measure same amount from 17 to 26 and from 7 to 27. Draft curve from 33 through 26 to 27. Square all points down at right angles to line 1 — 3 noting how far each line extends. This Skirt is made in three pieces and should be cut on line 14— 28 and 17—26, this forms side piece. Balance of draft from 8 — 26 to 7—27 forms a skirt for each leg and fulness of plaits in back prevents any appearance of skirt being divided when lad\- is standing. © ^ RIDING HABIT SKIRT ^e PLATE XXIX. 53 RIDING HABIT SKIRT. ««o**<» Measure 24 Waist Measure. 41 Hip Measure. 59 Length. FOUNDATION LINES. Draw construction line 1 — 2 and using this as a base square line 1 — 3. From I to 2 is one-fourth of Hip Pleasure ( LOi in.) From 1 to 4 is C 41 (Hip Pleasure). Square across point 2 at right angles to line 1 — 2 and square down point 4 at right angles to line ' — «*. From 5 to 6 is £ in., from 5 to 7 is one-eighth of waist measure (3 in.), from 7 to 8 is .1 in. From 2 to 9 is one-eighth of Hip Measure (3 in), square across from point 9. From 4 to first line across is one third of waist measure (8 in.), square down to point 1 1. Draft curve from 8 to 1 1 and from 6 to II. From 9 to 12 is one-sixth of waist measure (4 in.) Draft curve from 6 to 12. Line 13 to 14 simply shows where chamois skin should be placed. From blank line to 15 is one half of Waist Measure and 1 in. added (13 in.) Draft curve from 8 to 15. From 1 1 to 16 is one-sixth of Waist Pleasure (4 in.) From 16 to 17 is 1£ in . from 15 to 18 is 1 in. from 18 to 19 is one-eighth of waist measure (3 in.) Draft curve from 15 to 19 and from 19 to 17. From 18 to 20 is one-eighth of Waist Pleasure (3 in.), from 20 to 21 is one-fourth of Waist Measure in. Apply waist measure from 15 to 19, 21 to 23, 29 to 30, 31 to 32, 33 to 34 and 26 to 28. This should measure 2 in. more than full size of waist (26 in.), should it measure more make darts larger and if it measures less make darts smaller. From 28 to 35 is one-half of Hip Pleasure (20^ in.), from 35 to 36 is one-half of Hip Measure and 1 in. ( 2 1 V in.), square down from 36 at right angles to line 35—36. From 36 to 37 is one-half of Hip Measure (20.1 in.), from 37 to 38 is one-sixth of Waist Measure (4 in.) Draft curve from 28 through 36 and 38 to Bottom of Draft 39, square across from 35 to 40 at right angles to line 28—35, from 35 to 40 is one third of Waist and 1 in. (!) in.) Square line to bottom of draft at right angles to line 35—40, hollow 1 .1 in. on each side of T, draft curve from 25 through 40 and 41 to 43 and from 25 throuo-h 42 to 43. Square line from 18 to bottom of draft 44, cut through on this line. Measure length of skirt from 15 to 8, 6 through 12 to 45 and from 28 through 36 to 39. From 24 to 43 is 10 in. less than length. Draft curve from 45 through 44 — 43 to 39. 54 in. apart from F to 10 and mark around back from 6 to F, F to A and A through 15 to bottom of draft. Should you wish still less fulness, cut in front of waist 2 in. from 10 back to 2 in. from 6 and open frcnt on this line, after front is opened cut the same as you opened back (from 10 to F). Mark down line 25 — K and around bottom same as you did back, this takes out two darts on each shoulder and makes a perfect fitting golf cape. Add li in. from 28 to 29, 25 to 26 and M to P (for button stand). Draft line from 29 through 26 to P. OJ en Co Oi to PLATE XXXI. ty=t 2 ±±± ±ii ±±± 10 ±±± I 12 13 ±±± This Square (a duplicate of which is furnished with this Text Book) is a one-fourth reduction of large box wood square and will apply to the plates in this Text Book in the same manner that large square is used in making large drafts, except to full length box coat, newmarket and skirts. t lit -s -a A D RUDE . NEW YORK 4 CLEVELAND H 8St&j"fcSC r.» ,-=,4-1^- ° is te es is is eis&fefttistelsi T WVfUsmts is bbfelsfcbAksteb 1» Is Is Is PS fe te 1$ It ktefc „. ** <& INDEX, ** s LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 013 973 188 8 Application of Depth of Scye. Automobile Coat Blouse Waist Collars Cape Double Breasted Jacket Double Breasted Front Double Breasted Vest Divided Skirt Eton Jacket Fly Front Jacket Full Box Coat Full Length Box Coat Five Gored Skirt General Remarks Glove Fitting Waist Graded Inclines Habit Skirt Half Fitting Box Coat Hood Inclines 0, 1, 2 Inclines, 3, 4 Jacket Waist Ladies' Cutaway Measure New Market Raglan Raglan Sleeve Sleeve Single Breasted Vest Shirt Waist Seven Gored Skirt Square Tight Fitting Jacket Three Piece Skirt Waist for Stout Lady TE PAGE 7 8 22-21 23 42-43 22 41 29 54-55 2 10-11 14 30-31 l!l 36-37 27 .-)()-.-) 1 17 34-35 1 8-9 7 20-21 21 40-41 26 46-47 5 4 14-15 13 28-29 2X 52-53 6 18-19 22 41 12 26-27 13 28-29 16 34-35 15 20 38-39 10 24-25 11 25 !l 23 18 36-37 24 42-43 27 48-49 30 55 3 12-13 35 44-45 5 16-17 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS I II III III n mm i n .... . i ii M I 013 973 188 8 »