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 COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 
 
THE SCHOOLMASTER AND HIS PUPILS TAKING A STEAMER IN 
 NEW YORK FOR A TOUR OF THE WORLD. 
 
A JOURNEY 
 AROUND THE WORLD 
 
 Including Interesting Adventures in Many Lands 
 
 WITH 
 
 PROFESSOR GLEE 
 
 And His Class of Young l J eople in Their Travels 
 
 Visiting the Historic and Famous Cities and Places of Europe, Asia, Africa, 
 
 South America, Australia and many Islands of the Atlantic 
 
 and Pacific Oceans, including the New Possessions 
 
 of the United States. 
 
 A Week at the Fan-American Exposition 
 
 The Beautiful Buildings — The Midway and its Strange Shows — The Wonderful 
 
 Exhibits in Machinery— Science and Art — The Grand Electrical 
 
 Displays at Night — Adventures in this Home City 
 
 and a Trip to Niagara, described in a 
 
 Delightful Style 
 
 » «t>. , J • . , "I 
 
 Profusely Illustrated with Nearly 200 Fine Engravings 
 
 INTERNATIONAL PUBLISHING CO. 
 
 CHICAGO, ILL. 
 
THE L.SRARY OF 
 
 CONGRESS, 
 Two CoMta Reoeiveo 
 
 OCT, 28 1901 
 
 Copyright entry 
 CZ^aZZ, '9°' 
 CLASS CCXXc. No. 
 
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 Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1901, by 
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 in the office ot the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
 
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INTRODUCTION. 
 
 HERE was a time when a man could hope to see for 
 himself all the world. When all the civilized coun- 
 tries were grouped along the coasts of the Mediter- 
 ranean, a noble Roman might set out in his chariot, 
 and in the course of a year or two see the world, and 
 if he journeyed continuously in any given direction 
 he soon reached the borders of civilization, and 
 dared go little farther. 
 
 All this has long since changed. The world is 
 bigger than it seemed to the Ancients. We travel 
 more, we travel many times more rapidly, but, except for the icy barriers 
 which nature has erected about the poles, the inhospitable laws and 
 customs of two or three half-civilized peoples, and excepting a con- 
 stantly contracting area of unexplored savage country, the direction and 
 the extent of one's journey are matters which he may decide for himself. 
 But if one spent his life in travel he would still be able to see but a 
 small part of the whole world ; the area is too great, the places and ob- 
 jects of interest are too many, to be explored within the space of a single 
 life. If one would see the world he must see most of it through the eyes 
 of other people ; he must come to know that which it is physically im- 
 possible for him to behold, through what others have written about it, or 
 through the pictures they have made. 
 
 The world is full of interest. In the older civilized lands we see with 
 delight what has been accomplished by generation after generation ; the 
 records they have left in libraries, in pictures, in statues, in buildings 
 and in cities ; records which tell us how they lived, in what they suc- 
 ceeded, in what they failed ; records which enable us to compare ourselves 
 and our own time with the people and the time of the past. In newer 
 
•6 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 countries, we see with admiration and astonishment what men are 
 achieving ; how they are building new cities, tunneling mountains, caus- 
 ing the desert to blossom as the rose ; how in every country and under 
 every circumstance a new difficulty only brings a new increase of zeal, 
 and the harder the task, the more eager are men to accomplish it. In 
 savage lands the strange and the grotesque excite our wonder, and the 
 ignorance, the superstition and the misery of the people give rise to 
 emotions of pity, of philanthropic sympathy or of missionary zeal. And 
 in all the corners of the earth, the works of God in Nature exceed in 
 beauty and in interest all the works of man. 
 
 It is the purpose of this book to gather from all over the world pic- 
 tures of whatever is interesting, or curious, or beautiful, or strange, and 
 to present with each picture such a description as shall put the reader 
 in possession of the facts and give him a thorough acquaintance with 
 the subject. The engravings are by well-known artists, most of them 
 drawn from photographs taken on the spot, and the text has been pre- 
 pared by writers who are personally familiar with the scenes and objects 
 and places described, and who, in many cases, have spent years in the 
 study of the localities, their history, archaeology, and all pertaining to 
 them that can interest or instruct. The descriptions are therefore ac- 
 curate, and the pictures true to life. 
 
 In Paris, Queen City of Civilization, with which the book very nat- 
 urally begins, material was at hand which might well fill volumes, and 
 the selection was indeed a matter of difficulty. It is believed, however, 
 that such choice has been made as will give to those who have never 
 traveled some idea of the magnificence of the great French capital, while 
 those who have had that privilege will welcome the admirable pictures of 
 those places in Paris which most pleased them, and the delightful word 
 pictures by Mr. Augustus J. C. Hare will increase the pleasure and profit 
 to be derived. 
 
 The views of Egypt will take the reader to that land of mystery, will 
 show him the Country of the Nile, the ruins of temples and cities under 
 whose walls the Children of Israel toiled at making bricks without straw, 
 while in Alexandria he will be astonished and delighted to see a thriv- 
 ing, bustling, beautiful modern city. We are fortunate in having a 
 chapter on this most interesting country, written for us by Henry Harts- 
 
INTRODUCTION. 7 
 
 home, m. d., ll. d., of the University of Pennsylvania, who recently visited 
 this land of the Nile. 
 
 Not only has due space been given to these well-known countries ; not 
 only have busy England, picturesque Scotland, unhappy Ireland, the 
 countries and cities of .modern Europe, been presented in characteristic 
 pictures and appreciative descriptive matter, Germany in particular 
 being most happily described by Charles F. Brede, a. m., recently of Johns 
 Hopkins University, whose extensive travel and long residence in that 
 country have so specially fitted him for the task ; not only have the won- 
 ders of the Land of the Midnight Sun been pointed out by Professor 
 Lonnkvist, with the grace and completeness which can only be attained 
 by residence in the scenes described ; not only have Russia, and Austria, 
 and France, and Spain contributed their share, but care has been taken 
 to include the results of the most recent discovery, and the reader will 
 be delighted to turn even from the pictures of semi-civilized countries of 
 Asia, from the wonders of Persia or China, to the description of Thibet 
 and the views from photographs taken by Prince Henry of Orleans during 
 a journey through absolutely unexplored portions of that Land of Lamas, 
 that Roof of the World. 
 
 While Darkest Africa is adequately represented and a proper place is 
 found for those portions of that continent where the white man's face 
 has been seen but once or twice, prominence has been given to civilized 
 Africa, in the belief that the results of the latest explorations have be- 
 come very widely known through the many books and lectures upon that 
 subject. 
 
 An example of the interest to be found in the most remote parts of the 
 world will appear in the picture of the Harbor of Apia, in the Samoan 
 Islands, and the account of the heroic conduct of American sailors in the 
 hour of peril in that far-off place, as well as in the review of the relations 
 of our government with those islands. 
 
 Neither care nor expense has been spared to fulfill the purpose of this 
 volume in a manner at once generous and complete. The engravings 
 speak for themselves, while the variety, as well as the high character of 
 the collection, the exceptionally complete and graphic descriptive matter, 
 no less than the elegant manner in which the typography, presswork. 
 and binding have been done, will be apparent to every reader. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 I. 
 
 Queen Paris. 
 
 Many remnants of past times — History of France centred in its capital — " Paris not a city, but a world" 
 — The chief charm of the city — Paris before 1870 — The Louvre — The collections of the Louvre — 
 The isle of the city — The Pont-Neuf — The Cathedral of Notre Dame — Place de la Concorde — Ter- 
 rible memories — The Obelisk — Les Champs Elysees — The Arch of Triumph — Interesting phases of 
 Parisian life — A visit to the Opera House 13 
 
 II. 
 Along the Mediterranean Coasts. 
 
 The " Pillars of Hercules "—A nook of sweet tranquillity — Tangier in Africa — An unequalled picture of 
 Oriental life — Malaga, a place of fabulous antiquity — History of the city — Marseilles, the first sea- 
 port of France — Greek quickness and Hellenic wit — The toilers of the sea — A lively scene — Genoa 
 the proud — A magnificent bay — Palermo, the capital of Sicily — Pola, the most important naval 
 station of Austria — The glory of Pola — In the city of the Doges — History — A motley collection — 
 Alexandria — The place of Mehemet Ali — On holy ground — Mount Carmel 27 
 
 III. 
 
 Through the Land of the Pharaohs. 
 
 By Henry Hartshorne, M. D., LL. D. 
 
 In a new world — A Babel in miniature — Modern Egypt — "The donkey, the nightingale of Egypt" — 
 Cleopatra's Needle — The Catacombs — The Palace of the Khedive — Along the Nile — Cairo — Donkeys 
 and donkey boys — The tombs of the kings — The bazaars of Cairo — The mosques — The pyramids — 
 The Sphinx — The character of the population — A trip up the Nile — Snake-charmers — The animals 
 of Egypt — Nile boatmen — Wonderful remnants of ancient civilization — Imposing ruins — A history 
 in stone and colors — Kom Ombo — The overflow of the Nile — " The Nile is Egypt " 47 
 
 IV. 
 
 A Trip through England and Scotland. 
 
 No land of greater interest to Americans— Triumphs of engineering skill— Berwick-on-Tweed— History- 
 Newcastle— " The coaly Tyne "—Barnard Castle— Salmon weirs— Venerable history— Bourton-upon- 
 Trent— Hull, a flourishing river port— History— An interesting feature— Bristol, a home of prehis- 
 toric ages — The Scottish capital — Liverpool, the gateway of the nation's commerce — Liverpool of 
 old— Liverpool of to-day— London, the largest city in the world— Remarkable buildings— St. Paul's 
 Cathedral— Houses of Parliament— Westminster— The mighty Fingal's Cave 57 
 
 V. 
 Through the Emerald Isle. 
 Beautiful scenery— Dublin— History— The port— A fine thoroughfare— The commercial capital of Ire- 
 land—Belfast—Limerick, a prosperous city — Cromwell's Bridge — Magnificent scenery — Sorrowful and 
 perplexing troubles— A complicated question, still unsolved— The Giants' Causeway, a celebrated and 
 
 peculiar formation , , , , , , , . 78 
 
 (8) 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 9 
 
 VI. 
 
 Northern France and Belgium. 
 
 Art, history and legend on every hand — Rouen, the capital of Normandy — "Le Gros Horloge" — 
 One continuous village — The River Meuse — At Freyer, Belgium — The Battle of Sedan — Liege, 
 the Belgian Birmingham — A horrible tragedy — The picturesqueness of the houses — Ghent — Bel- 
 fries — Bruges — The tower at Bruges, an elegant Gothic structure 93 
 
 VII. 
 
 A Glance at Holland. 
 
 The three enemies of the Dutch — "A country that draws fifty feet of water" — Bergen-op-Zoom — 
 The Hague — " The largest village in Europe" — Many works of great masters — A typical Dutch 
 scene 102 
 
 VIII. 
 
 A Tramp Through Germany. 
 
 The united Germany — In the Rhine valley — Hildesheim — History — Lordly castles — The unfortunate 
 King Louis II., and Neu Schwanstein — Characteristic beverage — A region of beauty and romance — 
 Strassburg — A great cathedral — A wonderful clock — The Trappist monks — Gay festivities — The 
 Stork's Day — the " Gullertanz " — A wedding in Germany — A German country scene — Evidences of 
 piety and devotion on all sides 107 
 
 IX. 
 
 ■ 
 
 Denmark. 
 
 X flat country — Copenhagen — The "Dyrehave" — x\griculture the main resource of the people — Consid- 
 erable crops — The Government and the Legislature — The Faro Islands 122 
 
 X. 
 
 The Land of the Midnight Sun. 
 
 Norway — Particular features — Grand natural scenery — A piece of geology — The fjords and rivers — Cas- 
 cades and waterfalls — The S^jaeggedalsfos — A never-to-be-forgotten scene — Beauty and grandeur — 
 Ssebo — North fjord — A mighty cliff — A mythical story — Scandinavians, a simple-minded and relig- 
 ious people — A glance at Sweden — Lapland and the Laplanders — Stockholm and Gothenburg, the 
 two chief cities of Sweden . 125 
 
 XI. 
 
 Glimpses of Russia. 
 
 Wide contrasts — A fishing village in Northern Russia — The system of police — St. Petersburg — Neva 
 Perspective — Religion and Education — The Cathedral of St. Izak — The centre of aristocratic life 
 — The Winter Palace — An interesting ceremony — A great court ball — Tsarskoe-Selo — Peterhof . 143 
 
 XII. 
 
 In Brilliant Vienna. 
 
 Diverse fragmentary race elements — The City of Vienna — An ancient Celtic settlement — The character 
 and manners of the people — " GemuthlicK' 1 — The central cafe — Tolerancy — The Ring Strasse — 
 The grand old Gothic Cathedral of St. Stephen 151 
 
 XIII. 
 
 Among the Alps of Switzerland. 
 
 A view with no rival in the world — A glorious sunrise — Illustrious places — The Hole of Uri — The Valley 
 ofAndermatt — The heart of the Alps — The valley of Chamounix — An ascent of Mont Blanc — 
 An ingenious contrivance ..,,,.,,,, 1ft? 
 
10 CONTENTS. 
 
 XIV. 
 In Spain. 
 
 Take Spain as you find her ; she is not likely to improve— Travel in Spain a constant movement from 
 one town to another— "The beautiful old cities "—Spanish courtesy 161 
 
 XV. 
 Portugal. 
 
 The Portuguese language— Lisbon— History— The great earthquake of 1755. 
 
 Corsica. "The most beautiful island in the Mediterranean" — Diversity of Climate — A rough-and- 
 ready plan of Corsica — Cape Corso 1 65 
 
 XVI. 
 
 Sunny Italy and Classical Greece. 
 
 Arrival at the Eternal City — Peculiarity of the great cities of Italy — In Florence — The most beautiful 
 of all fountains — "The lone mother of dead empires " — The Roman Forum — The residence of the 
 Pope — The gardens of the Vatican — The Palatine and the " Palace of the Csesars " — A pretty story — 
 Greece — The modern Greek — Classical names — Monasteries — Olive culture — The miniature princi- 
 pality of Monaco — Beauty of Monaco — Naples 171 
 
 XVII. 
 
 Algiers and Tunis. 
 
 Algiers, "a pearl set in emeralds" — A fertile region — Algiers, or the City of the Deys — Unique, inde- 
 scribable, incomprehensible — Oriental life in perfection — In Tunis — The customs of the people — 
 Beautiful walks , 1 89 
 
 XVIII. 
 
 In Darkest Africa. 
 
 An unknown land — Physical features — Stupendous natural highways — Strange peoples and strange 
 animals — The elephant — Ivory at the bottom of the woes of Africa — Beaten tracks everywhere — 
 The African footpath a bee-line — The heart of Africa no desert — Jaded and sunstricken forests — 
 Primeval man — A fine-looking people — Curious gardening — How to produce fire — Living man the 
 commercial currency 197 
 
 XIX. 
 
 Western Asia. 
 
 Memorials of the past— The foundation of the Turkish Empire— The Hedjaz in Arabia— The central 
 city of all Islam — "The sick man"— Cities long ago doomed to destruction— Asia naturally a rich 
 part of the world— The Turkish port by no means the poorest— The Kara-Kum, or the Black Sands 
 — The Merv Oasis 215 
 
 XX 
 
 Iran or Persia. 
 
 A land with famous past — A waste streaked with preen — The Persian woman — The Persian peasantry — 
 Ruin and desolation — Teheran — The climate of Persia — A lovely spring — The poor— Engineering and 
 architectural skill— A show of gems— The population 227 
 
 XXT. 
 
 Thibet, or the Roof of the World. 
 
 A great table-land— Beasts of burden — The dwellings — Legendary ancestors— The wife the head of the 
 
 house — Praying a mechanical performance— Great number of monks — A curious bridge . , , , 239 
 
CONTENTS. V 
 
 XXII. 
 
 Among the Stately Chieftains of India. 
 
 Bombay — A world of peoples and races — A magnificent procession — The old capital of the Asiatic world 
 — Benares, the holy city — The Monkey's Temple — Calcutta, the great Indian metropolis — A bloody 
 custom 251 
 
 XXIII. 
 
 China, or the Celestial Empire. 
 
 Vast extent of territory — Numerous Pagodas — Marriages — Impressive ceremonies — The great wall of 
 China 265 
 
 XXIV. 
 
 The East Indian Islands. 
 
 Picturesque houses — Funeral ceremonies — An amusing incident — Idleness regarded as a vice — An 
 obnoxious habit 273 
 
 XXV. 
 
 Australia. 
 
 The first settlement — A new Colony — Marvelous animals and strange trees — Cannibals — The principal 
 business of Australia — A busy life — A view of Brighton — New Zealand 280 
 
 XXVI. 
 
 The Fiji Islands and the Samoan Islands. 
 
 A visit to a native village — A Fijian's hair — The Samoan Islands — A long-to-be-remembered Yankee 
 cheer 293 
 
 XXVII. 
 
 In South America. 
 
 In the sub- Antarctic zone — In Argentina — The Athens of South America — A perilous subject . . . 297 
 
 XXVIII. 
 East and West of the Andes. 
 Bulimia— An arid tract— Bich silver mines— Products— Peru— Disappointing to the traveler— Sandy and 
 rocky shores — Lima # . ... 301 
 
 XXIX. 
 Brazil. 
 
 Great extent— The largest political part of South America— Plant and animal life— Agricultural products 305 
 
 XXX. 
 Venezuela and her Neighbors. 
 
 Ecuador— Quito, the capital— A remarkable city— The lovely valley of Chillo— Poor natural highways 
 — Venezuela — A misnomer — The gold mines 307 
 
 XXXI. 
 Cuba, the " Queen of the Antilles." 
 
 Extent — Products — The city of Havana — The struggle for liberty — Cuban patriots , 310 
 
 XXXII. 
 
 The United States of America. 
 Home again to America, " The Land of the Free and the Home of the Brave " — The wealth and 
 
 resources of our country ........... ^ ,.,.• • -. • • • . 317 
 
12 CONTENTS. 
 
 XXXIII. 
 
 Washington City. 
 
 The handsomest city in all the world — Prominent institutions — Mechanical and manufacturing 
 
 industries — History of the region — The plan of the city — Fine buildings — The Washington 319 
 Monument — The social centre of distinguished Americans 
 
 XXXIV. 
 
 Greater New York. 
 
 Creation of Greater New York — The growth of New York — History of the city — A cosmopolitan 
 city — Great buildings — The art centre of the country — The Brooklyn Bridge — General Grant's 
 tomb 329 
 
 XXXV. 
 
 Philadelphia, the City of Independence. 
 
 Philadelphia prior to 1825 — Its situation — An acknowledged leader in educational matters — Girard 
 College — A city of morality and religion — Places of historic interest — Modern architectural piles 
 —The City Hall— The Washington Monument 345 
 
 XXXVI. 
 
 Chicago, the Magic City of the World. 
 
 Marvelous rapidity of its growth — The centre of transportation — The terminal point of great trunk- 
 lines of railway — The great conflagration of 1871 — Big and substantial buildings — Attractive 
 pleasure grounds — Chicago's great industries — The parks and public grounds 360 
 
 XXXVII. 
 
 New Orleans, the Metropolis of the South. 
 
 History — The largest cotton mart in the world — The quaint appearance of New Orleans — Practically 
 
 two cities — Climate and subtropical vegetation 371 
 
 XXXVIII. 
 
 San Francisco, the Metropolis of the Pacific Coast. 
 
 History — Gold discovery starts a new era — Its fine buildings — The city of Oakland — Popular sights 
 
 — Chief imports and exports — The climate " 377 
 
 XXXIX. 
 
 Niagara, the Greatest Waterfall of the World. — Yellowstone National Park. 
 
 ( )iie of the wonders of the earth — The vast volume of water passing over the falls every hour — How 
 to gain a proper impression of Niagara — General view — Thrilling Stories 383 
 
 XL. 
 
 Alaska and the Klondike. 
 
 Arctic land of wonders and gold — Its history — The vastness of the land — A surprising climate — 
 Strange Indian villages and curious " Totem Poles " — The gold-bearing interior 396 
 
 XLI. 
 
 The Dominion of Canada. 
 
 A vast country — Federal Government — Marvelous progress — The population — Province of Quebec — 
 
 Cities — Province of Ontario— Cities'— Natural scenery — The sportsman's paradise 402 
 
 XLI1. 
 
 The Pan-American Exposition. 
 
 What the traveler sees first — Countries represented — Buildings and exhibits — The Midway and its 
 shows — Electrical displays — Color effects ,,.,/,.,, 
 
I. 
 
 QUEEN PARIS. 
 
 ALMOST all travelers visit Paris, vet few reallv see it. 
 They stay at the great capital to enjoy its shops 
 and theatres and to drive in the great park, the 
 Bois de Boulogne, and they describe it as a charming 
 modern city, from which the picturesnueness of an 
 historic past has been utterly obliterated. But, 
 whilst it is true that much has perished, those who 
 take the trouble to examine will be surprised to rind how 
 many remnants of past times still exist, more interesting 
 than those in any provincial town, because the history of 
 France, more especially of modern France, is so completely 
 centred in its capital. 
 Peter the Great said of Paris that if he possessed such a town he 
 should be tempted to burn it down, for fear it should absorb the rest of 
 his empire ; and the hearts of all Frenchmen, and still more of all French 
 women, turn to their capital as the wished-for, the most desirable of 
 residences, the most beautiful of cities, the intellectual, commercial, and 
 political centre of their country. 
 
 Long ago Charles V declared that Paris was not a city, but a world, 
 and now it covers an area of thirty square miles, and is the most cosmo- 
 politan town in Europe, the city to which members of every nationality 
 are most wont to resort, for interest, instruction, and most of all for 
 pleasure. Every day brings throngs of strangers to its walls. To most 
 of these the change from their ordinary life, which is to be found in the 
 "distraction" of Paris, forms its chief charm, and foreigners delight in 
 the excess of its contrast to all they are accustomed to. But to French- 
 men Paris is far more than this : the whole country looks to it as the 
 
 (13) 
 
14 QUEEN PARIS. 
 
 mother city, whilst those who are native there can seldom endure a long 
 separation from it. 
 
 However long a stay may be made in Paris, there will always remain 
 something to be discovered. All tastes may be satisfied, all pleasures 
 satiated, and to the lovers of historic reminiscence its interest is abso- 
 lutely inexhaustible. 
 
 Those who visit Paris now, and look down the avenues of the Champs 
 Elysees and gardens which lead to nothing at all, or mourn over the un- 
 meaning desolate space once occupied by the central facade of the Tuileries. 
 can scarcely realize the scene as it was before the Kevolution of 1871. 
 Then, between the beautiful chestnut avenues, across the brilliant flow- 
 ers and quaint orange trees of the gardens, beyond the sparkling glory 
 of the fountains, rose the majestic facade of a palace, infinitely harmo- 
 nious in color, indescribably picturesque and noble in form, interesting 
 beyond description from its associations, appealing to the noblest and 
 most touching recollections. All its surroundings led up to 1^, and were 
 glorified by it ; it was the centre and soul of Paris, the first spot to be 
 visited by strangers, the one point in the capital which attracted the 
 sympathies of the world. 
 
 It is all gone now. Malignant folly ruined it ; apathetic and narrow- 
 minded policy declined to restore and preserve it. 
 
 But the Louvre still remains to us. On the site of a hunting lodge 
 which Dagobert had built in the woods which then extended to the Seine, 
 Philippe Auguste, in 1200, erected a fortress, to which St. Louis added 
 a great hall which was called by his name. As the Louvre stands to-day, 
 it is the joint achievement of all the great monarchs and great architects 
 of France. Charles V added towers and a moat ; Francis I in part 
 demolished and rebuilt it; Henry IV united it to the Tuileries. The 
 great Cardinal Richelieu planned to double its dimensions, and Louis 
 XIV built the east facade, adorned with twenty-eight Corinthian pillars, 
 called the Colonnade du Louvre. The first Napoleon shared in the work, 
 but it remained for Napoleon III to bring it to its present perfection. 
 
 The collections of the Louvre are of various kinds — paintings, draw- 
 ings, engravings, ancient sculpture, sculpture of the middle ages and 
 renaissance, modern French sculpture, Assyrian, Egyptian, Greek and 
 ,Etruscan antiquities, Algerine museum, marine, ethnographical museum, 
 
QUEEN PARIS, 
 
 15 
 
 collections of enamels and jewels, everything that is beautiful, everything 
 of historic or artistic interest. 
 
 The principal island in the Seine, which in early times bore the name 
 of Lutece, was the cradle of Paris. The city began to spread beyond 
 the boundaries of Lutece from Roman times onward. The rays emerging 
 from this centre have absorbed all the villages in the neighborhood, and 
 for many miles in every direction all is now one vast and crowded city. 
 But the island, where the first palaces were grouped around the fisher- 
 men's huts, has ever been, as it were, the axis of the kingdom, the point 
 
 EASTERN POINT OF THE ISLE OF THE CITY, WITH CITY HALL, PARIS. 
 
 whence the laws were disseminated, and where the metropolitan cathe- 
 dral has existed for fifteen centuries. In early times two islets broke the 
 force of the river beyond the point of the He de la Cite ; they were arti- 
 ficially united to it, when Androuet du Cerceau was employed to build 
 the Pont-Neuf, in the reign of Henry III. 
 
 The bridge, with its twelve round-headed arches and massive cor- 
 nice, is most picturesque, and with the varied outline of tall houses and 
 the gray cathedral behind it, and the feathery green of its island trees 
 glittering against the purple shadows in the more distant windings of 
 the river, it forms the most beautiful scene in the capital. So central 
 
16 
 
 QUEEN PARIS. 
 
 an artery is the Pont-Neuf, that it used to be a saying with the Parisian 
 police, that if, after watching three days, they did not see a man cross 
 the bridge, he must have left Paris. 
 
 After the bridge was finished, when Henry IV was at the height of 
 his popularity, it was decided to erect his statue on the central plat- 
 form, which was formed by the islets recently united to the mainland. 
 Franqueville, first sculptor to the king, was employed to make a model 
 to be sent to Florence for casting by John of Bologna ; but when the 
 great sculptor received the model he began with the horse and died in 
 
 Statue of Henry IV. 
 WESTERN POINT OF THE ISLE OP THE CITY. 
 
 The Louvre. 
 
 1608, before he had proceeded farther. It was not till 1635 that the 
 whole was placed on a magnificent pedestal, guarded at the corners by 
 four chained slaves. 
 
 The feeling about Henry IY was such that, from the death of the 
 Grand Dauphin, the people used to carry petitions of complaint to the 
 foot of the king's statue, and leave them there. In 1 789 the people 
 forced those who passed in carriages to descend and kneel before Henry 
 IV ; this genuflection was inflicted on the Duke of Orleans. 
 
 But the great Revolution of 1789 melted down horse and rider alike. 
 
QUEEN PARIS. 17 
 
 to make cannon. The existing statue, by Lemot, only dates from the 
 Restoration in 1818, and is made from the bronze of the destroyed 
 statues of Napoleon in the Place Vendome at Boulogne-sur-mer, together 
 with that of General Sesaix which stood in the Place des Victoires. 
 One of the inscriptions on the pedestal is a copy of that belonging to 
 the original statue. The reliefs represent Henry IV entering Paris, and 
 his passing bread over the walls to the besieged citizens. 
 
 The Cathedral of Notre Dame. 
 
 Of all the noble structures upon the Island of the City, the first in 
 importance is the cathedral church of Notre Dame, one of the finest 
 Gothic monuments in existence. The date of this church is variously 
 given, or rather it has been achieved, like most ancient cathedrals, at 
 different epochs, beginning in the eleventh century. The high altar was 
 consecrated in 1082, and the western front built by Bishop Maurice de 
 Sully in 1223, the name of the architect being preserved on the walls as 
 Maitre Jehan de Chelles. 
 
 The plan of the church is that of a regular cross, with double aisles 
 surrounding both the choir and the nave, and an octagonal apse east o,f 
 the choir. At the western extremity are two fine and perfectly similar 
 towers, which form conspicuous objects from most parts of the city, arid 
 were evidently intended to support spires. | 
 
 By the gradual demolition of the buildings with w 7 hich it was origi- 
 nally surrounded — the adjoining palace of the Archbishop of Paris. hav- 
 ing been destroyed by the revolutionary mob so lately as 1831— the 
 cathedral now stands perfectly detached, and may be viewed to. advan- 
 tage on all sides, the area caused by the latter event having been re- 
 cently levelled and planted with trees as far as the river. The space in 
 front of the cathedral, called the Parvis de Notre Dame, formed on the 
 demolition of many mean houses by Maurice de Sully, was, till the year 
 1748, so much elevated above the pavement of the church, that a flight 
 of thirteen steps w T as necessary to descend into it. But the ground has 
 since been lowered to its present gentle slope. 
 
 The length of Notre Dame is nearly 400 feet, and the height of the 
 towers 204 feet, the western side beins; 128 feet wide. The architecture 
 is of the purest pointed order, and executed with the greatest care and 
 
IS 
 
 QUEEN PARIS. 
 
 delicacy. The three retiring arches of the magnificent portals in the 
 western front are singularly beautiful in design and rich in statuary. 
 
 The rose-windows, retaining 
 their ancient stained glass, 
 are also specimens of exquisite 
 art; but perhaps the most 
 striking feature of the exterior 
 of Notre Dame, except the 
 western front, is to be found in 
 the vast flying buttresses, 
 fronted by crocketed pinnacles 
 which spring from the out- 
 ward walls of the chapels. 
 
 To enter minutely into the 
 history and description of 
 Notre Dame would fill a vol- 
 ume. Michelet, the historian 
 of France, and Gibert, author 
 of the history of Napoleon, 
 have done much to illustrate 
 the metropolitan church ; but 
 of late years the attention of 
 the public has been drawn to- 
 wards it in a far more inter- 
 esting manner, by the fine ro- 
 mance of Victor Hugo, " Notre 
 Dame de Paris," the descrip- 
 tions contained in which are 
 as accurate as they are strik- 
 ing and picturesque. 
 
 It was the reception of the 
 Crown of Thorns from Jean de 
 Brienne, Emperor of Constan- 
 
 NOTRE DAME, EASTERN SIDE. . ^ 
 
 tmople, and a great portion of 
 the True Cross from his successor, Baudou, which made St, Louis deter- 
 mine to build a shrine worthy to contain them. Pierre de Montereau 
 
CATHEDRAL OF NOTRE DAME. 
 
20 QUEEN PARIS. 
 
 was employed as an architect, and the Sainte Chapelle, begun in 1242, 
 was finished in 1247. 
 
 The great height of the building, without visible aisles or transept, is 
 very striking. The lower part of the north side and part of the chevet 
 are hidden by modern buildings. The buttresses, which sustain all the 
 weight of the vaults, rise to the full height of the building between the 
 windows, and terminate in rich foliated pinnacles. Between them, 
 gables, richly sculptured, surmount the windows of the upper chapel. 
 Beneath the fourth window is an oratory, constructed by Louis XI, that 
 he might hear mass without being seen, and beneath this an oratory 
 formerly dedicated to St. Louis. The steeple is a modern restoration of 
 one erected by Charles VIII, and burnt in 1630. The portal is on the 
 west, facing the buildings of the Hotel du Prefet de Police. Above the 
 platform over the porch is the great flamboyant rose-window which was 
 added by Charles VIII, in 1495, surmounted by a balustrade of fleurs- 
 de-lis and by turrets on either side of the gable, which contains a 
 smaller rose-window. On the balustrade two angels crown the chiffre 
 of King Charles. On the pinnacles hangs the Crown of Thorns. 
 
 The chapel is a nave with narrow aisles. Forty pillars sustain the 
 vaulting, of which the keys, in sculptured chestnut-wood, are very 
 remarkable. The windows are curved triangles. The wall decorations 
 are restorations from traces of ancient work. The floor is paved with 
 thirty-four curious gravestones, chiefly of Canons of the Sainte Chapelle. 
 Boileau was buried amongst them. The tombstone of his brother 
 Jacques still remains here, but the remains of the poet were removed, 
 after the Revolution, to St. Germain des Pres. 
 
 No external stair leads to the upper chapel, because it was the royal 
 oratory opening from the palace. We ascend, by an inner staircase, to 
 the platform of the upper porch, a vast, covered balcony, forming the 
 real approach, by which the royal family entered, and communicating 
 on the north with the palace galleries. 
 
 Place de la Concorde. 
 
 Where the Rue Royale opens towards the Madeleine, we pass the De* 
 partment of the Marine and of the Colonies, built (1760-68) by Gabriel, 
 and reach the Place de la Concorde, stately and beautiful with its 
 
QUEEN PARIS. 
 
 21 
 
 obelisk, fountains and statues, its delightful views down green avenues 
 to the Louvre on the east and the Arch of Triumph on the west, and 
 towards the magnificent church of the Madeleine on the north, and the 
 Chamber of Deputies on the south. The square was made under Louis 
 XV, and was decorated with his equestrian statue by Bouchardon, 
 placed on a pedestal surrounded by bas-reliefs and allegorical figures of 
 the Virtues by Pigalle. 
 
 The Legislative Assembly demolished the statue in the Place Louis 
 XV (1792), and replaced it by a statue of Liberty. Soon, however, the 
 
 PLACE DE LA CONCORDE, PARIS. 
 
 square took the name of Place de la Revolution, and, under the Reign 
 of Terror, the scaffold was permanently established there. Thus the 
 most terrible memories of the great Revolution are concentrated on this 
 spot, where 2,800 persons perished between January 21, 1793, and May 
 3, 1795. The fountain on the south side, decorated with figures em- 
 blematic of Marine Navigation, marks the exact spot where Louis XVI 
 died, January 21, 1793. 
 
 The king was taken to death in a carriage, the queen in a cart. On 
 October 31, 1793, the weird death procession of the Girondins reached 
 the Place. Even in that cruel time, sympathy was aroused by the 
 
22 
 
 QUEEN PARIS. 
 
 death of Madame Eoland, on November 10, 1793. May 9, 1794, saw 
 the execution of Madame Elizabeth. On July 28, 1794, Robespierre 
 paid the penalty of his crimes. 
 
 The Obelisk of the Place de la Concorde, brought from Luxor, Egypt, 
 and given to France by Mehemet Ali, was erected here by Louis 
 Philippe, in 1836. It is covered with hieroglyphics celebrating Barne- 
 ses II, or Sesostris, who reigned in the Fourteenth Century before Christ. 
 The history of its transport from Egypt is represented upon the pedestal. 
 
 It was at the foot of this Obelisk, on the spot where Louis XVI died, 
 that Louis Philippe and Marie Amelie, flying on foot by the gardens 
 
 CHAMPS ELYSEES, PARIS. 
 
 before the popular invasion of the Tuileries, on February 24, 1848, waited 
 in agony for their carriages. 
 
 Two groups of sculpture by Guillaume Coustou, known as Les Che- 
 vaux de Marly, decorate the entrance to the noble promenade originally 
 called "Le Grand Cours," but which has been known as Les Champs 
 Elysees since the time of Louis XY. It extends from the Place de la 
 Concorde to the Arch of Triumph, and is the favorite afternoon walk of 
 the fashionable world of Paris, where the badaud, or French cockney, is 
 seen in perfection, 
 
a 
 > 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 as 
 
24 
 
 QUEEN PARIS. 
 
 Behind the principal avenues are ranges of exhibition booths, and 
 cafe-concerts, which attract an humbler crowd. Here idolizing parents 
 will stand for hours to watch their petits bons hommes caracoling on 
 wooden horses, while the maid in a snowy cap holds the babies. 
 
 On the left of the Champs 
 Elysees is the Palais d' In- 
 dustrie, built (1852-55) for 
 the great Exhibition, and 
 used since for the annual 
 Exhibition of Painting and 
 Sculpture. 
 
 The Largest Triumphal Arch 
 in the World. 
 
 The Champs Elysees are 
 closed by the huge Arch of 
 Triumph, one of the four 
 triumphal arches which Na- 
 poleon I intended to erect 
 in commemoration of his 
 victories, and which he be- 
 gan from designs of Chal- 
 grin, in 1806, though the 
 work was not completed till 
 1836, long after founder and 
 architect had passed away. 
 It is the largest triumphal 
 arch in the world, the arch 
 itself being 90 feet high and 
 45 feet wide. The groups of 
 the genius of war summoning the nations to sculpture which adorn it are 
 
 by Rude, Cortot, and Etex: 
 that by Rude, of the Genius of War summoning the nations to arms, is 
 the best. There is, however, nothing fine about the arch except its size. 
 It is far too narrow for its height, and the frippery ornament along the 
 top of the structure destroys all grandness of outline. The hugeness of 
 
QUEEN PARIS. 
 
 25 
 
 the building is in itself a disfigurement, and like the giant statues in St 
 Peter's at Kome, it puts all its surroundings out of proportion. 
 
 There are many points in Paris, many facts and phases of Parisian 
 life, which interest strangers, whilst they pass unnoticed by those who 
 live amongst them, for differences always excite more attention than 
 similitudes, and no one thinks it worth while to describe what he sees 
 every day — manners, customs, or appearances, with which he has been 
 familiar from childhood. To a foreigner, especially to one who has never 
 
 1814." NAPOLEON. 
 From a Painting by J. L. E. Meissonier. 
 
 left his own country before, half an hour spent on the boulevards or on 
 one of the chairs in the Tuileries gardens has the effect of an infinitely 
 diverting theatrical performance, whilst, even to a customary observer, 
 it will seem as if the great object of French men and women in every 
 class were to make life as easy and pleasant as possible — to ignore its 
 present and to forget its past troubles as much as they can. 
 
 An old proverb says that "Paris is the paradise of women, the pur- 
 
26 QUEEN PARIS. 
 
 gatory of men, and the hell of horses." But however true the first of 
 these dictums may be, its bad reputation in the last instance has long 
 been a tale of the past. 
 
 Nowhere is existence cheaper than at Paris for those who know how 
 to manage. A bachelor who does not mind mounting five pairs of stairs 
 may have a charming little apartment for about five dollars a week. 
 At the smaller private hotels an admirably furnished room, with break- 
 fast, lights, and attendance, seldom comes to more than seven or eight 
 dollars. At the admirable restaurants which are scattered everywhere 
 over the town, an excellent dinner with coffee costs from forty to fifty 
 cents. Carriages are reasonable, omnibuses ply in all directions, upon 
 the most admirable and equitable of systems, and a complete circle 
 of railways connects the city with its environs, containing a thousand 
 charming spots, which the Parisian of the middle classes can choose for 
 the point of the Sunday excursion which he almost invariably makes 
 into the country. 
 
 But if one would see the rest of the world he must not linger too long 
 in Paris. 
 
 A visit to the Opera House, to climb its magnificent marble staircase, 
 and loiter in its stately vestibule ; an excursion to Versailles ; and yet 
 a few intoxicating clays, that ever tend to grow to weeks, in exploring 
 the historic or modern city ; and so — Farewell, Queen Paris. 
 
II. 
 
 ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN 
 
 COASTS. 
 
 HE " Pillars of Hercules ! " The portals of the An- 
 cient World ! To how many a traveler just begin- 
 ning to tire of his few days' journey from England, 
 or but slowly recovering, it may be, in his tranquil 
 voyage along the coasts of Portugal and Southern 
 Spain, from the effects of thirty unquiet hours in the 
 Bay of Biscay, has the nearing view of this mighty 
 landmark of history brought a passage of new life ! 
 That distant point ahead, at which the narrowing 
 waters of the Strait that bear him disappear en- 
 tirely within the clasp of the embracing shores, is for many such a 
 traveler the beginning of romance. He gazes upon it from the westward 
 with some dim reflection of that mysterious awe with which antiquity 
 looked upon it from the East. The progress of the ages has, in fact, 
 transposed the centre of human interest and the human point of view. 
 Now, as in the Homeric era, the Pillars of Hercules form the gateway of 
 a world of wonder ; but for us of to-day it is within, and not without, 
 those portals that that world of wonder lies. To the eye of modern poetry 
 the Atlantic and Mediterranean have changed places. It is to the basin 
 of the Mediterranean, fringed with storied cities and venerable ruins, with 
 the crumbling sanctuaries of a creed which has passed away, and the 
 monuments of an art which is imperishable, that man turns to-day. 
 The genius of civilization has journeyed far to the westward, and has 
 passed through strange experiences ; it returns with new reverence and 
 a deeper awe to those shores in mid-Europe which are its birthplace, 
 
 (27) 
 
28 
 
 ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN COASTS. 
 
 and which are hallowed with the memories of its glorious youth. Let us 
 enter the historic gateway ! let us delight in the choicest beauties of the 
 Mediterranean coasts ! 
 
 A Nook of Sweet Tranquillity. 
 
 There are few more enchanting sights than that of the Bay of 
 Tangier, as it appears at sunrise to the traveler whose steamer has 
 dropped down the Straits of Gibraltar in the afternoon and evening 
 hours of the previous day, and cast anchor after nightfall at the nearest 
 point off shore to which a vessel of any draught can approach. No- 
 
 TANGIER, AFRICA. 
 
 where in the world does a nook of such sweet tranquillity receive, 
 and for a season quiet, the hurrying waters of so restless a sea. The 
 blue waters of the bay, now softly flushing at the approach of sun- 
 rise, break lazily in mimic waves and " tender, curving lines of creamy 
 spray " upon the shining beach. To the right lies the city, spectral in 
 the dawn, save where the delicate pale ivory of some of its higher houses 
 is warming into faintest rose ; while over all, over sea and shore and city, 
 is the immersing crystal atmosphere of Africa, in which every rock, every 
 ripple, every housetop, stands out as sharp and clear as the filigree work 
 of winter on a frosted pane. 
 
ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN COASTS. 29 
 
 Nothing in Tangier, it must be honestly admitted, will compare with 
 the approach to it by its incomparable bay. In another sense, too, there 
 is nothing here or elsewhere which exactly resembles this "approach/ 7 
 since its last stage of all has to be performed alike, for man and woman, 
 unless man is prepared to wade knee-deep in the clear, blue water, on 
 the back of a sturdy Moor. The traveler will find that the pictur- 
 esqueness of Tangier diminishes rather than increases on a nearer view. 
 The point to which every visitor directs his steps is the Bab-el-Sok, the 
 gate of the market place, where the scene to be witnessed at early 
 morning presents an unequaled picture of Oriental life. Crouching 
 camels with their loads of dates, chaffering traders, chattering women, 
 sly and servile-looking Jews from the city, fierce-eyed, heavily armed 
 children of the desert, rough-coated horses and lank-sided mules, with- 
 ered crones squatting in groups by the wayside, tripping damsels ogling 
 the "yashmak" as they pass, and the whole enveloped in a blinding, 
 bewildering, choking cloud of such dust as only Africa can produce. Let 
 the reader picture to himself such a scene with such accessories, and he 
 will know what spectacle awaits him at early morning at the Bab-el-Sok 
 of Tangier. 
 
 A Place of Fabulous Antiquity. 
 
 Malaga as a seaport and place of settlement can claim almost 
 fabulous antiquity. It was first founded by the Phoenicians, three 
 thousand years ago, and a continuous existence of thirty centuries 
 fully proves the wisdom of their choice. Its name is said to be 
 Phoenician, and is differently derived from a word meaning salt, and 
 another which would distinguish it as "the king's town." From the 
 earliest ages Malaga did a thriving business in salt fish ; its chief product 
 and export were the same anchovies and the small boquerones, not unlike 
 an English white-bait, which are still the most highly prized delicacies 
 of the Malaga fish market. Southern Spain was among the richest and 
 most valued of Phoenician possessions. It was a mine of wealth to 
 them, probably the Tarshish of Biblical history, from which they drew 
 such vast supplies of the precious metals that their ships carried silver 
 anchors. Hiram, King of Tyre, was a sort of goldsmith to Solomon, 
 furnishing the wise man's house with such stores of gold and silver 
 utensils that silver was "accounted nothing therein," as we read in the 
 
30 
 
 ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN COASTS. 
 
 First Book of Kings. When the star of Tyre and Sidon waned, and 
 Carthage became the great commercial centre of the Mediterranean, it 
 controlled the mineral wealth of Spain and traded largely with Malaga. 
 Later, when Spain passed entirely into Roman hands, this southern 
 province of Boetica grew more and more valuable, and the wealth of 
 the country passed through its ports eastward to the great marts of the 
 world. Malaga, however, was never the equal either in wealth or com- 
 mercial importance of its more eastern and more happily placed neighbor, 
 Almeria. The latter was the once famous "Portus Magnus" or Great 
 
 MALAGA, SOUTHERN COAST OP SPAIN. 
 
 Port, which monopolized most of the maritime traffic with Italy and the 
 more distant East. But Malaga rose in prosperity as Roman settlers 
 crowded into Boetica, and Roman remains excavated in and around the 
 town attest the size and importance of the place under the Romans. It 
 was a municipium, had a fine amphitheatre, the foundations of which 
 were laid bare long afterwards in building a convent, while many bronzes, 
 fragments of statuary, and Roman coins found from time to time prove 
 the intimate relations between Malaga and the then Mistress of the 
 World. 
 

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 W 
 
32 ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN COASTS. 
 
 At the First Seaport of France. 
 
 Except the view of Montreal and the St. Lawrence Rapids from 
 Mont Royal, hardly a town view in the world equals, for beauty and 
 variety, that of Marseilles from Notre Dame de la Garde, on a clear 
 spring morning. 
 
 Close at our feet lies the city itself, filling up the whole wide valley 
 with its mass, and spreading out long arms of faubourg, or roadway, up 
 the lateral openings. Beyond rise the great white limestone hills, dotted 
 about like mushrooms, with their glittering bastides. In front lies the 
 sea, the blue Mediterranean, with that treacherous smile which has so 
 often deceived us all the day before we trusted ourselves too rashly, with 
 ill-deserved confidence, upon its heaving bosom. Near the shore the 
 waves chafe the islets and the Chateau d 7 If ; then comes the Old Port and 
 the busy basins; and beyond them all, the Chain of Bstaques, rising, 
 grim and gray, in serrated outline, against the western horizon. A beau- 
 tiful prospect, though barren and treeless, for nowhere in the world are 
 mountains barer than those great white guardians of the Provencal 
 seaboard. 
 
 In every town, however, the best of all sights is the town itself: and 
 nowhere on earth is this truism truer than at Marseilles. After one has 
 climbed Notre Dame, and explored the Prado, and smiled at the Chateau 
 d'Eau, and stood beneath the frowning towers of St. Victor, one returns 
 once more with real pleasure and interest to the crowded Cannebiere, 
 and sees the full tide of human life flow eagerly on down that picturesque 
 boulevard. That, after all, is the main picture that Marseilles always 
 leaves photographed on the visitor's memory. How eager, how keen, 
 how vivacious is the talk ; how fiery the eyes ; how T emphatic the ges- 
 ture ! With what teeming energy, with what feverish haste, the great 
 city pours forth its hurrying thousands ! With what endless spirit they 
 move up and down in unceasing march upon its clattering pavements ! 
 There is something of Greek quickness and Greek intelligence left even 
 now about the old Phoca^an colony. A Marseillais crowd has to this very 
 day something of the sharp Hellenic wit. 
 
 Seen from the sea, Marseilles is indeed superb. The whole Mediter- 
 ranean has hardly a finer approach to a great town to display before 
 the eyes of the artistic traveler. 
 
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34 ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN COASTS. 
 
 Unlike many of the old Mediterranean towns, Marseilles has not only 
 a past, but a future. She lives and will live. In the middle of this 
 century, indeed, it might almost have seemed to a careless observer as 
 if the Mediterranean were "played out." And so in part, no doubt, it 
 really is; the tracks of commerce and international intercourse have 
 shifted to wider seas and vaster waterways. 
 
 We shall never again find that inland basin ringed round by a girdle 
 of the great merchant cities that do the carrying trade and finance 
 of the world. Our area has widened, so that New York, Rio, San 
 Francisco, Yokohama, Shanghai, Calcutta, Bombay, and Melbourne have 
 taken the place of Syracuse, Alexandria, Tyre and Carthage, of Florence, 
 Genoa, Venice and Constantinople. But in spite of this cramping change 
 a certain number of Mediterranean ports have lived on uninterruptedly, 
 by force of position, from one epoch to the other. Venice has had its 
 faint revival of recent years; Trieste has had its rise; Barcelona, 
 Algiers, Smyrna, Odessa, have grown into great harbors for cosmopolitan 
 traffic. 
 
 Of this new and rejuvenescent Mediterranean, girt round by the fresh 
 young nationalities of Italy and the Orient, and itself no longer an in- 
 land sea, but linked by the Suez canal with the Indian Ocean, and so 
 turned into the main highway of the nations between East and West, 
 Marseilles is still the key and the capital. That proud position the 
 Phocaean city is not likely to lose. 
 
 And as the world is wider now than ever, the new Marseilles is perforce 
 a greater and a wealthier town than was the old one in its proudest 
 days. Where tribute came once from North African, Levantine, and 
 Italian coasts alone, it comes now from every shore of Europe, Asia, 
 Africa and America, with Australia and the Pacific isles thrown in as 
 an afterthought. Regions Caesar never knew enrich the good Greeks of 
 the Quai de la Fraternite : brown, black, and yellow men whom his 
 legions never saw, send tea and silk, cotton, corn, and tobacco to the 
 crowded warehouses of the Cannebiere and the Rue de la Republique. 
 Here they crowd and jostle and push each other, each contributing 
 his portion to the growing prosperity, each one a link between the old 
 Greek city and the new world. 
 
ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN COASTS. 35 
 
 The Toilers of the Sea. 
 
 One of the most important of the few industries of Sardinia is the 
 tunny fishery. When Spain ruled in the island it was worth much 
 more that it is at present. Since then it has been grievously neglected, 
 though in the last few decades its value has begun again to be recog- 
 nized. 
 
 From first to last the taking and potting of the tunny is an affair of 
 much tact and patience. The net or snare into which the wandering 
 herds of fish are enticed has to be of immense size, dexterous construc- 
 tion, and irreproachable strength. It is of two parts : the one an outer 
 framework of palmetto or esparto grass, made fast by cables and o 
 tether of hugh stones ; and the other an inner drag net, by means of 
 which the fish are eventually brought near to the surface. This is the 
 slaughterers' moment, and a wild enough scene it is, when the great fish 
 are thus at the mercy of the men who have been nominated to stand on 
 two of the sides of the great boats which pen the fish, waiting the word 
 of command from the "rais," or superintendent, to drive their iron 
 hooks into the glittering bodies of their victims. 
 
 At last the supreme moment arrives. There are the tunny lashing 
 each other with their powerful tails as they try to move freely in their 
 restricted quarters. The water within the square is all in a boil. The 
 spray is shot right and left so vigorously that the spectators are soon 
 drenched, and it rises high in the air like the spouting from a hundred 
 fountains. 
 
 The slaughterers have dressed themselves in cotton from head to foot. 
 Well they may, for in a few moments they are red all over with the 
 blood of the dead and dying fish. These they stab with their "crocchi," 
 or hooked poles, and draw from the water into the roomy holds of the 
 barges, which cut off all chance of escape for the fish, It is not child's 
 play, though of actual danger there is none, save that of a blow from 
 the tail of the fish as it is being urged into the boat. And so the 
 work proceeds until the gory sea within the enclosure is divested 
 of its tenants. Then the men leap into the water upon the other 
 side, and swim about until they and their cottons are a more pre- 
 sentable color. 
 
36 ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN COASTS. 
 
 In Genova La Superba. 
 
 Genoa the Proud is an epithet not inappropriate for this city of mer- 
 chant princes of olden days, which was once the emporium of the Tyr- 
 rhenian as was Yenice of the Adriatic sea, and the rival of the latter for 
 the commerce of the Eastern Mediterranean. No two cities, adapted to 
 play a similar part in history, could be more unlike in their natural en- 
 vironments. Venice clustered on a series of mud banks, parted by an 
 expanse of water from a low coast-line, beyond which the far-away moun- 
 tains rise dimly in the distance, a fleet, as it were, of houses anchored 
 in the shadows of the Adriatic ; Genoa stretching along the shore by 
 the deepening water, at the very feet of the Apennines, climbing up their 
 slopes, and crowning their lower summits with its watch-towers. No 
 seaport in Italy possesses a site so rich in natural beauty, not even 
 Spezzia in its bay, for though the scenery in the neighborhood certainly 
 surpasses that around Genoa, the town is built upon an almost level 
 plain ; not even Naples itself, notwithstanding the magnificent sweep 
 of its bay, dominated by the volcanic cone of Vesuvius, and bounded by 
 the limestone crags of the range of Monte St. Angelo. 
 
 In Genoa, except for a narrow space along the shore, one can hardly 
 find a plot of level ground. Now that the old enclosed limits have been 
 passed, it is still growing upward ; but beyond and above the farthest 
 houses the hills are still crowned by fortresses, keeping watch and ward 
 over the merchant city. For a season, indeed, there was more to be 
 protected than merchandise, for, till lately, Genoa was the principal 
 arsenal of the Italian kingdom ; but this has now been removed to 
 Spezzia. Italy, however, does not seem to feel much confidence in that 
 immunity from plunder which has been sometimes accorded to "open 
 towns," or in the principles of the peacemongers, and appears to take 
 ample precautions that an enemy in command of the sea shall not thrust 
 his hand into a full purse without a good chance of getting nothing 
 better than crushed ringers. Its semicircular harbor is defended by two 
 converging moles. Viewed from the harbor the city rises like an 
 amphitheatre, with its churches, palaces, promenades and gardens, en- 
 circled by fortifications, the summits of the Apennines crowning a 
 picture all of which is beautiful. 
 
38 
 
 ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN COASTS. 
 
 A Glance at the Capital of Sicily. 
 
 To the traveler fresh from Girgenti and its venerable ruins, or from 
 Syracuse, with its classic charm, the first impressions of Palermo 
 may very likely prove disappointing. Especially will they be so if he 
 has come with a mind full of historic enthusiasm, and a memory 
 laden with the records of Greek colonization, Saracen dominion, and 
 Norman conquest, and expecting to find himself face to face with the 
 relics and remainder of, at any rate, the modern period of the three. 
 For Palermo is emphatically what the guide-books are accustomed to 
 
 ON THE COAST OP PALERMO, SICILY. 
 
 describe as " a handsome modern city," which means, as most people 
 familiar with Latin countries are but too well aware, a city as like any 
 number of other Continental cities, built and inhabited by Latin ad- 
 mirers and devotees of Parisian "civilization," as "two peas in pod." 
 
 But the environs of the city, which are of peculiar interest and attrac- 
 tion, invite us, and first among these is Monreale, at a few miles' dis- 
 tance, a suburb to which the traveler ascends by a road commanding at 
 every turn some new and striking prospect of the bay. On one hand, 
 as he leaves the town, lies the Capuchin Monastery, attractive, with its 
 catacombs of mummified ex-citizens of Palermo, to the lover of the grue- 
 
ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN COASTS. 39 
 
 some rather than the picturesque. Farther on is the pretty Villa Tasca, 
 then Le Rocca, whence by a winding road of very ancient construction 
 we climb the royal mount crowned by the famous Cathedral and Bene- 
 dictine Abbey of Monreale. Here are mosaics, as fine in quality and in 
 even greater abundance than those which decorate the interior of Cap- 
 pell a Palatina. From the Cathedral we pass into the beautiful cloisters, 
 and thence into the fragrant orange garden, from which another delight- 
 ful view of the valley toward Palermo is obtained. A steep path 
 branching off to the right from Monreale leads to a deserted fort, named 
 II Castellaccio, from which the road descends as far as San Martino, 
 whence a pleasant journey back to Palermo is made through the pictur- 
 esque valley of Bocca di Falco. 
 
 The Phoenicians founded at Palermo their first colony in Sicily. Its 
 inhabitants were the first Sicilians attacked by the Carthaginians, whom 
 they held at bay for nearly a century. Its varying fortunes since 
 passing into Eoman hands, 254 B. C, form one of the most interesting 
 chapters in the history of Europe. 
 
 The Most Important Naval Station of Austria. 
 
 Pola is a place of great antiquity. No one knows when it was 
 founded or by whom. A legend attributes it to colonists from Colchis 
 who were in pursuit of Jason; but this will not avail with modern 
 skeptics. It was at any rate founded before the Romans conquered 
 Istria, two centuries before the Christian era. Even then it was a 
 town of importance, but later it was almost destroyed by Julius Csesar, 
 as a penalty for having taken the side of Pompey. Prosperity, how- 
 ever, returned with Augustus, who made it a Roman colony, and 
 gave it the name of Pietas Julia, in honor of his daughter. It was a 
 place of gloomy memories to the Constantine family. To Pola, Crispus, 
 eldest son of Constantine the Great, was brought a captive, and there he 
 perished by an unknown mode of death, one thing only being clear, that 
 it was not a natural one. At Pola, also some years later, Gallus, the 
 nephew of the emperor, was executed by the order of his cousin, Constan- 
 tine. In later times we read of the fleet of Belisarius lying at anchor in 
 the harbor, waiting to carry the imperial army to Italy to do battle with 
 the Goth. But in the middle ages its history is, like that of the other 
 
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 p- 
 
 iiiiiiiBli 
 
 SI 
 
 Ml"!if: v - -:.'.h. . 
 
ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN COASTS. 41 
 
 seaports on the Eastern Adriatic, by no means one of uninterrupted 
 peace, though without episodes of general interest, till at last, in the 
 present century, it passed finally into the hands of Austria. It is now a 
 comparatively large town, but as it is near some tracts of marshy land, 
 it is said to be a rather unhealthy one. 
 
 The glory of Pola is its amphitheatre, which is situated on the northern 
 side of the town, and recalls the savage sports of its Roman builders. 
 This is remarkable in more than one respect. It is a massive oval wall, 
 pierced, as usual, with openings. This is only the shell of the ancient 
 building. In the amphitheatres at Rome and at Verona much of the 
 interior still remains, though part of the exterior has been quarried 
 away. At Nismes and at Aries both the one and the other are still 
 fairly perfect ; at Pola, corridors, staircases, seats, have all disappeared, 
 with the exception of a few shapeless masses of masonry which protrude 
 from the sward, and only this enormous ring of arches still remains in 
 solitary grandeur. 
 
 In the City of the Doges. 
 
 So long as Venice is unvisited, a new sensation is among the possi- 
 bilities of life. There is no town like it in Europe. Amsterdam has its 
 canals, but Venice is all canals ; Genoa has its palaces, but in Venice 
 they are more numerous and more beautiful. Its situation is unique, 
 on a group of islands in the calm lagoon. But the Venice of to-day is 
 not the Venice of thirty years ago. Even then a little of the old romance 
 had gone, for a long railway viaduct had linked it to the mainland. 
 In early days it could be reached only by a boat, for a couple of miles 
 of salt water lay between the city and the marshy border of the Paduan 
 delta. 
 
 The death of Rome was indirectly the birth of Venice. Here in the 
 great days of the Empire there was not, so far as we know, even a village. 
 Invaders came, Aquileia went up in flames, the cities of the Paduan 
 delta trembled before the hordes of savage Huns, but the islands of its 
 coast held out a hope of safety. What in those days these camps of 
 refuge must have been can be inferred from the islands which now border 
 the mainland, low, marshy, overgrown by thickets, and fringed by reeds; 
 they were unhealthy, but only accessible by intricate and difficult chan- 
 
ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN COASTS. 43 
 
 nels, with little to tempt the spoiler, and therefore supplied a place of 
 security from the savage invaders. 
 
 It was some time before Venice took the lead among these scattered 
 settlements. It became the centre of government in the year 810, but 
 it was well-nigh two centuries before the Venetian State attained to any 
 real eminence. Toward this, the first and perhaps the most important 
 step was crushing the Istrian and Dalmatian pirates. This enabled the 
 Kepublic to become a great "Adriatic and Oriental Company," and to 
 get into its hands the carrying trade to the East. She did battle with 
 Genoa for commercial supremacy, with the Turk for existence. She was 
 too strong for the former, but the latter at last wore her out, and Lepanto 
 was one of her latest and least fruitful triumphs. Still, it was not till 
 the end of the sixteenth century that a watchful eye could detect the 
 symptoms of senile decay. Then Venice tottered gradually to her grave. 
 
 A Motley Collection of All Nations. 
 
 The great thoroughfare of Alexandria, a fine street running in a 
 straight line from the western gate of the city to the Place Mehemet 
 Ali, is within a few minutes of the quay. A sudden turn and this 
 strange mingling of Eastern and Western life bursts upon the 
 spectator's astonished gaze. This living diorama, formed by the bril- 
 liant and ever-shifting crowd, is in its way unique. A greater 
 variety of nationalities is collected here than even in Constantinople 01 
 cosmopolitan Algiers. Let us stand aside and watch this motley collec- 
 tion of all nations, kindreds, and races pouring along this busy highway. 
 The kaleidoscopic variety of brilliant color and fantastic costume seems 
 at first a little bewildering. Solemn and impassive-looking Turks 
 gently ambling past on gaily caparisoned asses, grinning negroes from 
 the Nubian hills, melancholy-looking fellahs in their scanty blue kaftans, 
 cunning-featured Levantines, green-turbaned Shereefs, and picturesque 
 Bedouins from the desert stalking along in their flowing bernouses, 
 make up the mass of this restless throng. Interspersed, and giving 
 variety of color to this living kaleidoscope, are gorgeously arrayed Jews, 
 fierce-looking Albanians, their many-colored sashes bristling with 
 weapons, petticoated Greeks, and then a group of Egyptian ladies, their 
 faces as well as their rich attire, concealed under the inevitable vashmak 
 
44 ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN COASTS. 
 
 surmounting the balloon-like trousers. And now we may proceed to 
 visit the orthodox sights, but we have seen the greatest sight Alexandria 
 has to show us. 
 
 The Place Mehemet AH, usually called, for the sake of brevity, the 
 Grand Square, is close at hand. This is the centre of the European 
 quarter, and round it are collected the banks, consular offices, and prin- 
 cipal shops. This square, the focus of the life of modern Alexandria, is 
 appropriately named after the founder of the present dynasty, and the 
 creator of the Egypt of to-day. In the middle of the square stands a 
 handsome equestrian statue of Mehemet Ali, which is, in one respect, 
 probably unique. The Mohammedan religion demands the strictest 
 interpretation of the injunction in the decalogue against making "to 
 thyself any graven image," and consequently a statue to a follower of 
 the creed of Mahomet is rarely seen in a Mohammedan country. 
 
 On Holy Ground. 
 
 To the Israelite, "the forest of his Carmel," "the excellency of 
 Carmel," expressed his highest idea of woodland beauty and moun- 
 tain grandeur ; to those who recall the Alps or the Pyrenees it is 
 insignificant; but for ordinary hill scenery it is undoubtedly fine. 
 Alas! the forests that partially covered it thirty years ago are 
 now utterly destroyed by the reckless axe, to supply charcoal for the 
 silk factories of Lebanon. Still the plains on either side remain the 
 same, and they are truly vast; and the tiers of distant hills are so 
 numerous and varied in outline, that, bare as Carmel now is, the scenery 
 can never be called tame. The highest point of the ridge is 1750 feet 
 above the sea, but the monastery on the western bluff is only 500 feet 
 up. Yet from its roof we gain one of the finest views in Palestine. To 
 the south the Avhole coast-line can be traced, a fertile fringe to Oarmel's 
 mantle, with a hem of sand, and a lace-edging of spray, dotted by the 
 lonely fragment of the ruins at Athlit, and beyond it by the mounds of 
 Tantura, with the dislocated remains of Caesarea in the dim distance. 
 At our feet, to the northward, is spread the broad Bay of Acre, and the 
 dark-green plain beyond, with the white city of Acre looking like the 
 farther horn of the crescent. Beyond it, the white headland of Kas-en- 
 Nakura, the ladder of Tyre, closes the sea-view northward. But 
 
ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN COASTS. 
 
 45 
 
 above it rises the distant snow-clad Lebanon, almost lost in the clouds ; 
 while to the east, Tabor and Hermon, with the dark hills of Galilee in a 
 confused and crowded mass, bound the half-hidden plain of Esdraelon. 
 The heights of Carmel behind us shut out the hill region of Samaria and 
 Central Palestine. 
 
 We descend again into the monastery, a cheerful and welcome hospice, 
 entirely modern, raised by the indomitable energy of Fra Battista, fifty 
 years ago, after the Turks had swept away every vestige of the old 
 monastery, on the spot where Pythagoras is said to have sojourned and 
 meditated. But the worthy friars are firmly convinced that this is also 
 the very spot where Elijah sacrificed, and where the Godhead of Jehovah 
 was proved before assembled Israel. 
 
 ipiifiS! 
 
 STATUE OF COLUMBUS, GENOA. 
 
III. 
 
 THROUGH THE LAND OF THE 
 
 PHARAOHS. 
 
 BY HENRY HARTSHORNE, M.D., LL.D. 
 
 HAT is there great in history that does not touch 
 or approach Egypt ? As a modern writer says : 
 "The Bible, Homer, Philosophy, the Sciences; 
 Greece, Rome, Christianity; the monks, Islam- 
 ism; the Crusades, the French Revolution; 
 Abraham, Socrates, Moses, Helen, Alexander 
 Pompey, Csesar, Cleopatra, Origen, Athanasius, 
 Saladin, Napoleon ! What names ! what con- 
 trasts ! Moses issues from Egypt ; Pythagoras, 
 Plato, Lycurgus, Solon, Herodotus, Strabo and 
 Tacitus enter into her bosom to be initiated 
 into her laws." 
 Crossing the Mediterranean, the moment one sees the 
 light-house of Alexandria (on the site of the ancient Pharos), it is felt that 
 we are in a new world. America and Europe have disappeared from our 
 view. As we anchor in the harbor a dozen boats at once surround us, 
 peopled with nearly all the races and colors of the world. What a Babel 
 in miniature! Brown, yellow, red, black and white; turban, fez, hat, 
 pantaloons, Turkish trousers, rags and bare legs; all shouting, jabbering, 
 scolding, begging backshish, pushing and fighting, over and around us 
 and our baggage. Sticks are used as freely as tongues ; a club, a chain, 
 and a pipe might be taken for the symbols of modern Egypt. 
 
 Alexandria is the most dismal city in the world ; curious and inter* 
 
 cm 
 
48 THROUGH THE LAND OF THE PHARAOHS. 
 
 esting only at the first glance. Houses jutting out, each story farther 
 than the one below; almost meeting above, across the narrow streets. 
 Strings of camels, and countless donkeys, bestrode by turbaned, or un- 
 turbaned, long-faced, long-bearded men, or led in waiting for riders; 
 above all, screaming, scolding, braying, and barking of dogs, all day 
 long ; — but hushed for a time with the falling of night. Near midnight, 
 again come shouts or yells, not easily distinguished from the howling of 
 dogs and the long-drawn see-saw of the braying of asses. The donkey 
 is the nightingale of Egypt. 
 
 With dawn comes the tolling and chiming of bells, and the renewal 
 of all the noises of the daytime. One should see in Alexandria Pom- 
 pey's Pillar, with which Pompey had nothing to do ; and (formerly, not 
 now, as it has gone to England) Cleopatra's Needle, a thousand or two 
 years older than Cleopatra ; the Catacombs, and the Palace of the Khe- 
 dive, with halls and gardens like the Arabian Nights, and filled with 
 furniture fresh from Paris. 
 
 Along the Nile. 
 
 Leaving Alexandria, and traveling along the Nile on an English-built 
 railroad, we pass thousands of clay-built villages and Arab and Turkish 
 towns, thronged with population, before we reach Cairo ; El Kahirah, the 
 magnificent, which is, except Damascus, the most Oriental city in the 
 world. It, too, has narrow streets, with houses whose upper stories ap- 
 proach each other ; they are thronged with people from all the continents ; 
 with camels, donkeys, and now and then a carriage of some wealthy 
 people. Before these run Arab men, calling out " 0, ah, mareglek, she- 
 maluk, 0, ah!" "Get out of the way, right, left, out of the way!" 
 Horses are much less used for riding in Egypt than donkeys. Every 
 donkey has a boy to attend it ; and those donkey-boys are as wide-awake 
 to fun and mischief as the gamins of Paris or the newsboys and boot- 
 blacks of New York or Philadelphia. 
 
 All travelers visit the Tombs of the Kings, and those of the Caliphs ; 
 they are much more imposing than the modern cemeteries. 
 
 The bazaars of Cairo display a great variety of merchandise ; but are 
 amazingly slow in purchasing, unless you would pay five prices for every- 
 thing. 
 
 The mosques of this Mohammedan city are four hundred in number. 
 
THROUGH THE LAND OF THE PHARAOHS. 49 
 
 One must visit at least the finest, that of Sultan Hassan, and the ala- 
 baster mosque of Mehemet Ali. The Citadel, too, must be seen; it 
 was the fortress of Saladin, the Moslem hero of the Crusades ; the place, 
 also, later, of the treacherous massacre of the Mameluke Chiefs, and the 
 romantic escape of Emin Bey, by leaping his horse over the brow of a 
 parapet. Wanting horrors, such at least to people who have nerves, you 
 may go to see the howling and whirling dervishes. 
 
 At the Pyramids. 
 
 The Pyramids may be visited from Cairo, or as a digression from the 
 Kile journey. What shall we say of them? They are older than 
 Abraham, who looked upon them when in Egypt ; their erection was the 
 work of more than 100,000 men through twenty years ; they were meant 
 to be tombs of kings ; but Cheops and Cephrenes were detested by their 
 people so much that they were never buried in them. In a land with- 
 out mountains, they express the aspiration of men for something higher 
 than themselves ; and, most of all when seen from a distance, they have 
 an aspect almost of sublimity. This is mingled with a sense of 
 reflective wonder, when, near the Great Pyramid, we gaze on the stony 
 face of the gigantic, more than half sand-buried, Sphinx. 
 
 The traveler's pleasure in visiting the Pyramids is lessened much by 
 the annoyance of the Bedouin Arabs ; who beset one constantly, offering 
 services, needed or not, and begging backshish. This begging is the 
 pest of the hoivadji (traveler) everywhere. One is not, indeed, greatly 
 impressed with the character of the population of Egypt. A facetious 
 writer classifies them thus : the camels are the higher class ; next come 
 the donkeys ; then the Turks and Arabs, the Coptic (so-called) Chris- 
 tians, and, lowest, the Fellaheen, or native Egyptian common people; 
 except that, lower yet are the dogs of the country ; the meanest brutes 
 in all creation. Yet the Arab men, at least, in their Oriental costume, 
 are often very noble-looking. The women, when their faces are now 
 and then uncovered by their veils, show beauty so very rarely, that one 
 is content to bear resignedly the custom which makes it more immodest 
 for them to exhibit the face than the knees. Their figures are tall and 
 straight, made more so by carrying jars of water or other burdens on 
 their heads. 
 
 4 
 
50 THROUGH THE LAND OF THE PHARAOHS. 
 
 A Trip Up the Nile. 
 
 At Cairo we choose our dragoman, and engage our dahabeeyeh, the 
 native boat, to enjoy to the full a trip up the river Nile. One may do it 
 much more quickly on a steamer, but that is only prose ; the dahabeeyeh 
 trip is poetry. The writer's dahabeeyeh was 70 feet long and 16 feet 
 wide, with a cabin and small staterooms, accommodating a party of five. 
 It was manned by 14 men, including the " reis," or captain, a mate or 
 pilot, a cook, and an Arab waiter. There were half a dozen shades of 
 color among these ; some were Nubians, other Arabs, but not a genuine 
 negro in the number. They were lazy fellows, and now and then our 
 captain had to whip one of them for refusing to work. When the wind 
 filled our lateen sail, we moved briskly up the river; otherwise the men 
 went ashore and dragged the boat very slowly along. The sky is al- 
 ways cloudless over Egypt ; but the Nile gives enough moisture to make 
 the winter climate that of Paradise. Buchanan Read's poem, " Drifting," 
 is charming ; it was written in remembrance of the Bay of Naples. But 
 not Naples, Capri, and Ischia, nor even the gondolas of Venice, can 
 give such a sense of gliding luxury ; since they have no such sky and 
 atmosphere as one has while sitting on the deck of a Nile boat, sipping, 
 it may be, Mocha coffee, and listening to crocodile stories told by a reis 
 or dragoman. Sometimes a storm may come, but only one of wind. 
 Native fishermen's boats are often capsized; but the journey is free 
 from danger to life. Coming back from the upper Nile, descending the 
 cataract between two long walls of rock, it has a terrific look, and boats 
 are sometimes injured; but there is, with skilful navigation, little 
 real peril. 
 
 Serpents once abounded in this country. They were, as shown by the 
 monuments, at least the horned snake, sacred in ancient Egypt. Snake 
 charmers were once numerous, performing especially on the day cele- 
 brated as the birthday of Mohammed. They, like the serpents, even 
 the asp of Cleopatra, are, with the crocodiles, disappearing from the 
 country. 
 
 The Animals of Egypt. 
 
 The animals of Egypt are mostly ugly. Every one knows the camel's 
 profile; it has little beauty, although picturesque at a distance on a 
 level desert land. Instead of the ox there is the buffalo ; a long-necked, 
 
52 THROUGH THE LAND OF THE PHARAOHS. 
 
 long-legged, awkward animal, whose chief talent is for swimming. The 
 Egyptian goats, sheep and dogs are all of the color of the mud of the 
 river banks. Even the birds of Egypt are without brilliant colors; 
 white, as the sacred ibis, or black, gray, brown, and dull yellow, are 
 their hues. Birds are very numerous in the Nile region. Hundreds of 
 flocks of wild ducks, geese and brant are seen flying overhead, north- 
 ward, constantly in February, to meet the coming Spring. Other birds 
 are the eagles, vultures, cormorants, hawks, owls, ravens, pelicans, 
 herons, cranes, curlews, snipe; sparrows, even, in the towns, as tame 
 almost as flies; and pigeons everywhere, encouraged to occupy nests, 
 sometimes nest-houses, built for them on the houses of the people. 
 
 The horses which we saw were rather small. The famous Arab breed 
 was represented here and there, ridden by Bedouins coming in from the 
 desert, or sometimes covered with trappings of the rich, in or near Cairo. 
 
 As we passed along the windings of the river, we were constantly 
 delighted with the vivid greenness and luxuriance of the crops upon its 
 banks. They were of rice, wheat, cotton, corn (our maize), sugar cane, 
 buckwheat, lentils, lucerne and tobacco. Here and there a palm grove 
 varied most attractively the scene, and gave it character. Often, under 
 the palms, were low, clay-built hovels of the villages, among which rose 
 occasionally a tall, straight minaret, with the companion dome of a 
 mosque. 
 
 Mountains, properly so called, Egypt has not. But, along the river 
 here and there, are rocky elevations, three or four hundred feet in height, 
 and sometimes very steep. Gebel Aboofaydah is one of the most pictur- 
 esque of these. 
 
 Our Nile boatmen seemed to us like grown-up, lazy children. They 
 never worked when they could eat, and never ate when they could sleep 
 or smoke. Their food was bread dried for two weeks in the sun, and 
 dipped, as they sat cross-legged on the deck around a great bowl, in lentil 
 soup or gruel. Sugar cane, stolen along the banks, or clover, was their 
 luxury. Yet they had elegant white teeth, such as most Americans 
 might envy. 
 
 Their amusement was thrumming monotonously on a sort of tambour- 
 ine, and singing dolorously, with scarcely the semblance of a tune, while 
 they sat on the forward deck of the boat, while the wind blew favorably. 
 
THROUGH THE LAND OF THE PHARAOHS. 
 
 53 
 
 At other times they had to go ashore and drag the boat along with a 
 rope, at a rate which would make the "rapid transit" American boil 
 over with impatience. 
 
 One might imagine these lazy children happy, with so easy a life, in 
 this charming climate. But their faces are sad and downcast; their 
 voices are plaintive in every tone. All signs tell of a people who are the 
 slaves of a despot who owns themselves and their property. Nearly half 
 of our crew had sacrificed their fore-fingers, others their right eyes, to 
 escape conscription into the Khedive's army. The cunning of the latter 
 had, at last, met this device by establishing a one-eyed regiment. 
 
 SEKHET STATUES NEAR THE TEMPLE OP MUT, KAENAK. 
 
 Wonderful Remnants of an Ancient Civilization. 
 
 Most interesting of all objects of study for the traveler are the ancient 
 monuments of Egypt. They reach back in antiquity three, four, some 
 authorities say five thousand years. Their vastness of proportion and 
 design, as seen in their ruins, is stupendous. Most of them are written 
 all over, even their roofs, with hieroglyphic inscriptions, giving records 
 of the public and private life of many centuries and dynasties. Their 
 preservation, often buried out of sight through long periods under the 
 sand, has been promoted by the dryness of the climate. The obelisk 
 
54 THROUGH THE LAND OF THE PHARAOHS. 
 
 taken by Napoleon I to Paris, and one afterwards conveyed to New York 
 city, in a year or two showed signs of beginning decay, while their fellows 
 at Luxor and Heliopolis, have still smooth, polished sides, and hiero- 
 glyphics as clear as when cut in. honor of Eameses or his gods, three or 
 four thousand years ago. The colors of the paintings on the walls of 
 the tombs near the site of Thebes are as fresh almost as if the work of 
 yesterday. 
 
 No more imposing ruins are anywhere to be seen than those of 
 Karnak. In the age of their erection these temples must have been 
 magnificent. Think of an avenue of two miles of Sphinxes, of which a 
 a number are still left ; of 360 columns, some of twelve feet in diameter 
 and sixty-six feet high ; of stones lifted to a roof, each stone forty feet 
 in length, and five-and-a-half feet square at the ends. There are in Egypt 
 monuments of still vaster proportions. The statue of Rameses the Great 
 at the Memnonium, a single piece of granite, is believed to weigh 887 
 tons ; and it was brought from Syene, 138 miles. How it was brought, 
 no one can now say. A stone at a shrine in Lower Egypt is estimated 
 to weigh 5000 tons. The Sphinx's head, near the great Pyramid of 
 Ghizeh, measures around its forehead 102 feet. 
 
 Many days may be well occupied in visiting the ruins of ancient 
 Thebes, the city once "of a hundred gates:" Luxor, Karnak, the 
 Memnonium, Medinet Haboo, Gournoo, the Yocal Memnon, and the 
 Tombs. 
 
 A History in Stone and Colors. 
 
 The tombs alone, Bebzoni's (so named after its discoverer), and the 
 rest, would be worth a journey to Egypt to explore. On their walls you 
 may read, in colors unfaded and sculpture as clearly cut as Canova's, 
 though far less beautiful, the record of the everyday life of the ancient 
 Egyptian people; their agriculture, domestic doings, civic solemnities, 
 battles and triumphal processions; their ideas of a future state, the 
 accountability of each soul, and the justice, tempered by mercy, of the 
 Supreme Being. There are representations of many gods on their monu- 
 ments; but there is reason for concluding that they held, vaguely it 
 may be, a belief in one God over all ; this belief being lost only in the 
 days of their greatest degeneration. 
 
 It would take long to tell of others of these wonderful remnants of an 
 
56 THROUGH THE LAND OF THE PHARAOHS. 
 
 ancient civilization, the oldest of the world. Kom Ombo is one of the 
 most remarkable of these. It was a double temple, dedicated to the 
 Egyptian gods, Horus and Zebek ; typified by the hawk and the crocodile. 
 Only some immense columns remain, now buried, except a few feet, but 
 once grand, even beautiful; and some other scattered fragments. A 
 great doorway, a hall of columns and a double sanctuary, are said by 
 Miss A. B. Edwards (the best of authorities) to be probably yet perfect, 
 but not now accessible. An ancient city and a mediaeval hamlet must 
 have been slowly engulfed, and an early Temple once stood within the 
 enclosure. Over these the sand has been accumulating for 2000 years. 
 
 Thus the sand from the desert, on both sides of the Nile, is warring 
 year by year with the river — the Nile is Egypt. It is a truly great 
 river, though hardly as long as the Mississippi, including the Missouri. 
 Beginning near the Equator, in vast elevated lakes, it flows northward 
 to the Mediterranean, having, in Nubia and Egypt, scarcely a single 
 tributary stream ; and, in those countries, no rain falls into it, not three 
 inches in ten years. The annual swell of the Nile from the tropical rains 
 and snow melting on the mountains in Central Africa is, in upper Egyj3t, 
 thirty to thirty -five feet. At Cairo it is not much over twenty feet; at 
 the Delta, near the Mediterranean, about four feet. The rise begins near 
 the 21st of June. In a month it overflows its banks, beginning to sub- 
 side again about the 22d of September. 
 
 This overflow is the wealth of the land ; the irrigation being extended 
 by the simplest methods to a distance beyond its natural range, to give 
 and maintain the fertility of the soil. Egypt is a belt of paradise laid 
 out by the river across the midst of the Libyan and Arabian desert. It 
 has always been one of the most populous regions of the globe. 
 
 Amid such scenes, we may recall the lines of an English poet : 
 
 u Under a palm tree, by the green old Nile, 
 
 Lull'd on his mother's breast the fair child lies, 
 With dove-like breathings, and a tender smile 
 
 Brooding above the slumber of his eyes. 
 While, through the stillness of the burning skies, 
 
 Lo, the dread works of Egypt's buried kings, 
 Temple and pyramid, beyond him rise, 
 
 Royal and still as everlasting things." 
 
IV. 
 
 A TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND AND 
 
 SCOTLAND. 
 
 IN" all the world no land possesses greater interest to Americans 
 than that which to them is 
 still the mother country. No 
 matter how proud we may be 
 of the land which is our own ; 
 no matter how we may boast 
 of its mighty lakes and rivers, 
 its wide prairies, its prosper- 
 ous cities, we will turn with a 
 peculiar delight to the shores 
 from which the Puritan, the 
 Quaker and the Cavalier alike 
 put forth, to try their fortunes 
 and to find new freedom across 
 the sea. 
 
 Instead of a single chapter, 
 volumes might well be written 
 of the cities and the rivers of 
 Great Britain : quiet rivers, 
 flowing between low banks, 
 through rich meadows, ready 
 to carry the war ship of the 
 Northman or the coal barge 
 of his descendant ; rivers which formed deep, quiet harbors, inviting the 
 building of wharves and shipping, harbors without which England could 
 never have been mistress of the sea. 
 
 (57) 
 
 WILLIAM EWART GLADSTONE. 
 
58 
 
 A TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 On the banks of these rivers our Anglo-Saxon race grew to manhood ; 
 here are the cities which grew with its growth ; in these streets and 
 churches and castles is written the story of how it grew. It is the story 
 of a hardy race, of the growth of a mighty people. Let us study some 
 of its chapters, and as we gaze upon the old castle, whose ponderous 
 walls tell of the days of warlike knights and barons, or upon the crowded 
 streets and market places where their successors buy and sell, or, as we 
 
 GLADSTONE'S STUDY. 
 
 follow the worthy Briton to some gay modern watering place, let us learn 
 lessons of respect for the old, as well as pride in the new. Our patriot- 
 ism, our love for our land, will be all the greater, the more we know of 
 our country and the people from whom we sprang. 
 
 Triumphs of Engineering Skill. 
 
 From the old Bartizan Tower of the Abbey Church in Dunfermline 
 one can survey a dozen shires, and — contrast as strange as the light 
 and shadow in the churches below — a glimpse is caught, beyond 
 North Queensferry Point, of the limbs of the new Forth Bridge. 
 The whole space spanned is over a mile and a half, but fully a third 
 
JOSEPH CHAMBERLAIN, 
 
 Colonial Secretary of England. 
 
60 
 
 A TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 of this distance is occupied by the viaduct approaches to what 
 may be termed the bridge proper, supported at a height of 165 feet above 
 mean sea-level, upon a series of stone piers. At this elevation the line 
 is carried across the Firth, which reaches from thirty to thirty-five fath- 
 oms in depth in the channels between Inch Garvie and the north and 
 south shores. Except the supporting bases of stone, the whole central 
 structure is of steel, wrought and fitted in the works on the southern 
 side ; and it is estimated that not less than 50,000 tons of metal have 
 been used in the work. 
 
 THE FORTH BRIDGE. 
 
 From the three main piers, columned "towers of steel" rise to a height 
 of 630 feet above the high-water mark, that on Inch Garvie being higher 
 than the two others. They are formed of tubes of three-fourths inch 
 steel, 12 feet in diameter at the base, inclining inward and toward each 
 other, and united by cross members, in the shape of the letter "X," for 
 purposes of strength, and from these the intricate bracket work of upper 
 and lower members, with their connecting struts and ties, stretch out 
 over the Firth, and approach each other near enough to be united by the 
 two 350 feet lattice girders over the fairways. The two great centre 
 
A TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 61 
 
 spans are each 1700 feet in width, and the half-spans that join them to 
 the great north and south viaduct piers are 680 feet each. All the strains 
 are concentrated upon the bases of the cantilever piers, and the whole 
 structure gives a remarkable impression of combined lightness and 
 strength, as well as of colossal size. From 3000 to 4500 men have been 
 employed for several years upon the bridge, of which it may almost be 
 v,aid that half the work is under water and out of sight. Its estimated 
 tost is between two and three millions sterling, and, connected with it, 
 
 THE NEW TAY VIADUCT. 
 
 new lines are being constructed, by which passengers and goods will, 
 henceforth, be carried by the shortest available route from south to north, 
 in despite of the obstacles interposed by the Forth, the Ochils, and the 
 Tay. 
 
 Berwick-on-Tweed, 
 
 Berwick-on-Tweed is certainly not happy in having no history. 
 Its beginnings are not clearly ascertainable; but it was for long a 
 Saxon settlement, until the Danes, attracted by the rich nerselands 
 through which the Tweed flows, helped themselves to it. Then came 
 the turn of the Scots, who held it off and on from about the time 
 
62 
 
 A TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 of Alfred the Great, until John Baliol renounced the authority of 
 his liege Lord, to whom he had sworn fealty at Norham. When an 
 English army approached, the citizens were by no means alarmed, 
 although it was led by Edward himself. " Kynge Edward," they cried, 
 from behind their wooden stockade, "waune thou havest Berwick, pike 
 thee; waune thou havest get en, dike thee." But the place was 
 stormed with the most trivial loss, and nearly eight thousand of the 
 citizens were massacred. Some brave Flemings who held the Town 
 Hall were burnt to cinders in it, and the carnage only ceased when the 
 
 A VIEW FROM THE RAMPARTS, BERWICK. 
 
 sad and solemn priests bore the host into Edward's presence, and 
 implored mercy. When Edward sat down before it, it was not only the 
 great Merchant City of the North, but ranked second to London among 
 English towns ; he left it little more than a ruin, and it has never since 
 been anything but "a pretty seaport." Two and twenty years later 
 there came another turn of the wheel. When Robert Bruce wrested his 
 native land from the feeble hands of the second Edward, Berwick shared 
 in the emancipation. 
 
 Its capture was held to be an achievement of the first order, and after 
 it, as Leland tells us, " The Scottes became so proud that they nothing 
 
A TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 63 
 
 esteemed the Englishmen." But presently a weaker Bruce reigned in 
 the North, and a stronger Edward in the South. In due course the 
 town was again beleaguered by an English force. A Scottish army under 
 the Kegent, Archibald Douglas, came to its relief; but the English held 
 a strong position on Halidon Hill, and, met by their terrible showers of 
 clothyard shafts, 
 the Scots turned 
 and fled, leaving 
 Berwick to its 
 fate. 
 
 Thus it again 
 became English, 
 and never again 
 did it change mas- 
 ters. 
 
 In these latter 
 days, however, it 
 has had to part 
 with another of its 
 peculiarities, and 
 now, instead of 
 constituting a sep- 
 arate municipali- 
 ty, it is substan- 
 tially a part of the 
 countv of North- 
 umberland. 
 
 From Newcastle 
 to the sea, twelve 
 miles by water, 
 the Tvne is a vast 
 tidal dock. It stands second among the rivers of the kingdom for the 
 extent of its commerce. The Thames takes precedence in the number 
 of vessels which enter and leave, and the Mersey stands before it in 
 respect of the total tonnage of the ships by which it is frequented ; but 
 the Tyne ranks second to the Thames in the number of vessels which 
 
 LORD TENNYSON. 
 
64 A TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 enter the port, and second to the Mersey in the bulk of its trade. But 
 more remarkable even than the commerce of the river are its great 
 industries. From Gateshead to the sea, on one hand, and from New- 
 castle to the sea, on the other, there is a constant succession of ship- 
 yards, chemical factories, engineering establishments, glass-works, docks, 
 and coal-shutes. 
 
 Newcastle, it has been said, owes its rise to war, its maintenance to 
 piety, and its increase to trade — a very neat and true saying. But 
 trade has done more for the Tyne than for Newcastle. It has, since the 
 beginning of the century, increased the population of the chief North- 
 umbrian town from 30,000 to 160,000; but it has increased the popula- 
 tion of Tyneside to half a million or more. 
 
 Milton did the river a huge injustice when he called this "the coaly 
 Tyne." His intention was innocent enough, no doubt, since he meant 
 only to acknowledge its celebrity in connection with coal. When there 
 are floods in the upper reaches, so much brown soil is carried down by 
 the impetuous water that the current of the river can be traced far out 
 to sea ; but at ordinary seasons, the local color of the Tyne approaches 
 that of the sea itself, and is, in fact, a deep, clear, olive-green. What is 
 not sufficiently understood, however, is that the local color of the stream 
 is that which is most seldom disclosed. Water takes its hue from the 
 sky above it, and from the light which plays about its face. Hence, 
 Spenser's beautiful and much-assailed phrase, "The silver-streaming 
 Thames." Hence, also, the Tyneside poet's eulogy of his native 
 stream : — 
 
 "Of all the rivers, north or south, 
 There's none like coaly Tyne." 
 
 A Place of Great Historical Events. 
 
 " Barnard Castle standeth stately upon Tees," says Leland. Stately 
 it is, to this day, though it is no more than a group of ruined towers 
 and crumbling walls; and though where the Tees must have flowed, 
 deep and wide from below the castle rock, there is now at ordinary sea- 
 sons only a thin stream, threading its way through what might very 
 well he mistaken for a stone-yard. Before the castle is reached, we 
 have, in fact, come to the first salmon weir, which, besides its other 
 
TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 65 
 
 purpose, is employed to divert the river to the service of industry. 
 From Barnard Castle, these weirs become very frequent, and are, in all 
 cases but this, an addition to the attractions of the stream. It was the 
 weir just below Barnard Castle that supplied Croswick with a subject 
 for one of his most famous and successful pictures. 
 
 The castle, which enclosed a circuit of six acres or more, was built by 
 Bernard Baliol. A descendant of Bernard climbed to the Scottish throne, 
 doing homage for the crown, at Newcastle, to the first Edward. Edward 
 Baliol did the like to Edward III. for the crown and kingdom of Scotland. 
 
 BARNARD CASTLE, THE TOWN. 
 
 It was a short and unfortunate dynasty which the Baliols founded, brought 
 to an end by the battle of Bannockburn. John Baliol presumed too much 
 on his independence as a king, wherefore his patron, Edward II, seized 
 upon his castle and his English estates, and the stately building on the 
 banks of the Tees was given to Beauchamps of Warwick. Thence it 
 passed by marriage into the hands of the Nevilles, and was part of the 
 dower of Annie Neville, the daughter of the King-maker, when she 
 married the scheming politician who was to become Kichard III. 
 Gloucester not only dwelt here for some time, but left decided marks oi 
 
 5 
 
66 
 
 A TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 his tenancy, the latest portions of the building being held by antiqua- 
 rians to have been erected under his superintendence. 
 
 Since 1592 Barnard Castle has been a ruin, the survey of that year 
 exhibiting it as tenantless, mouldering, and weather-worn, " the doors 
 without locks, the windows without glass." Dwellings which were 
 clearly built for persons of wealth and position are let as tenements, 
 and there is, consequently, an odd contrast between their statcliness 
 and the dress and appearance of those who lounge about their doors. 
 
 VIEW OF BOURTON-UPON- TRENT. 
 
 A glance at that part of the map where Yorkshire is separated from 
 Lincolnshire reveals the full extent of the Humber, but while it shows a 
 wide estuary, it conveys a poor idea of the national importance of this 
 arm of the sea. Nor is the value of the estuary in this respect much 
 increased by the mere statement that the Humber is formed by the con- 
 fluence of the Trent and the Ouse. 
 
 A Flourishing River-port. 
 
 Hull boasts not only of being the chief port on the Humber, but 
 claims to be the third port in the kingdom, giving precedence only to 
 London and Liverpool. There was a time when it was a mere hamlet ; 
 but it has not only outgrown the towns near it that once did a greater 
 
A TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 67 
 
 business — such as Hedon and Beverly — but has seen what was a much 
 larger commercial centre than either of these places, literally pass from 
 the map. What anciently was the chief port on the Humber lay snugly 
 enough, to all seeming, just within the bend at Spurn Head. It was 
 known as Kavenser. It had much shipping, and in the time of Edward I 
 sent members to Parliament. Unfortunately, Ravenser, with neigh- 
 boring towns, was built on unstable ground. A process of denudation 
 is continually going on at this, the extreme point of Yorkshire, and from 
 this cause, the sea had left only a fragment of Kavenser in Bolingbroke's 
 
 GREEN'S DOCK, HULL. 
 
 day. In no long time after this, the town was wholly absorbed by the 
 encroaching waters. Hull began to flourish as Kavenser began to decay. 
 Another circumstance that led to the development of this great Humber 
 port was the difficulty the Beverly merchants had in getting their sup- 
 plies by river. Hull was originally one of many wykcs (the Norse name 
 for a small creek or bay). It got the name of the river (the Hull) on 
 which it stood in the time of Richard I, and by this name it is known 
 everywhere, its corporate title of Kingston-upon-Hull seldom being 
 given to it in print, and still more seldom being applied to it in speech. 
 The royal title was conferred by Edward I, who is said to have noticed 
 
68 A TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 the value of the site for commercial purposes while hunting here, in 1256. 
 An interesting feature of the town is the statue of the famous anti- 
 slavery advocate, William Wilberforce. 
 
 A Home of Prehistoric Ages. 
 
 To write of many of the now greatest cities of the world is a task of 
 light moment ; their history began yesterday, and their present great- 
 ness alone has to be described ; but not so of Bristol, for here within its 
 borders, and around its heights lie evident signs that it was a home of 
 many dwellers in pre-historic ages. Only a few years ago, three great 
 camps spoke of these past ages ; one has been destroyed to make way 
 for modern villas in Leigh Woods ; but two, fairly perfect, yet remain ; 
 one on Observatory Hill on Clifton Down, and another hidden amid a 
 wealth of trees and rich undergrowth in Leigh Woods. The former is 
 highly interesting, with Roman work added to the British earthworks, 
 and with traces of lesser work in and around the camp that will give 
 many a pleasant moment to the antiquary in examining it. 
 
 The town of Bristol, in the days of the Normans, stood upon a little 
 peak of land that rose upon an islet formed by two rivers, the Avon and 
 Frome ; and beyond these rivers, far enough away in those early days to 
 be free from danger to the city, rose up yet greater hills and peaks, form- 
 ing a circle of hill-land all around this clustering home of gates, and 
 walls, and crowded houses, and churches. The centre of the old town 
 still forms the centre of the city, and the stranger who takes his stand 
 on the top of the rising ground, from whence diverge the four ways of 
 High Street, Broad Street, Wine Street, and Corn Street, will be stand- 
 ing upon the spot around which, for nearly a thousand years, has swirled 
 and rippled the life of Bristol citizens. 
 
 In the Scottish Capital. 
 
 The late Mr. George Ticknor, who had seen many men and many 
 cities, writing in his diary, in 1819, not only says that " Edinburgh is 
 certainly one of the most beautiful cities in the world," but, "It is 
 hardly necessary to be nice in the selection of particular points about 
 Edinburgh. It is all beautiful, and it is enough to get upon a height or 
 a steeple anywhere, and you are sure to be rewarded with a rich and 
 
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WINDSOR CASTLE FROM THE THAMES 
 
 THE LONG WALK— WINDSOR CASTLE 
 
 A FAMOUS ROYAL PALACE NEAR LONDON 
 
 The tourist always plans a visit to Windsor C;istle which is one of the suburban homes of the 
 English sovereign. Here are the tombs of Queen Victoria and her Royal Consort. 
 
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70 A TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 various prospect." And the Rev. T. C. Clark, in a singularly suggestive 
 work, pleasantly dealing, among other subjects, with certain of the 
 associations of the Scottish capital, quotes the criticism which a lady of 
 repute as a sculptor passed on the town. "The perfection of Edin- 
 burgh," she said, " is the perfection of a Venus, which requires that it be 
 beautiful from all points, and that those be many." 
 
 The city of Edinburgh consists of two towns, the Old and the New, 
 presenting contrasts as striking as those which the old English poets 
 drew between the crabbed age and golden youth when linked together. 
 The old town covers a high hog-back ridge of basalt, which slopes from 
 the Castle Eock at its western extremity to the foot of three hills at the 
 east, namely, the Calton Hill, the hill called "Arthur's Seat," and the 
 hill crowned with the beetling precipices of Salisbury Craigs. 
 
 The new town is handsome, but not picturesque. It is built on a 
 plain which slopes gently northward to the sea, and a long, straight 
 street, Leith Walk, running northeastward, connects it with the thriving 
 port of Leith. In old times, this plain was a waste, cut off from the city 
 by a valley which was originally a royal garden and pleasure ground, 
 where tournaments were held, but was formed into a moat (called the 
 North Loch) in 1450, for the defence of the city. Boating, skating, and 
 even fishing, were often indulged in here ; and it was also used as a 
 ducking-pond for persons of loose life, and in its turbid waters the Re- 
 formers, in 1538, carried away by their excess of zeal, soused the effigy 
 of St. Giles. Latterly it became a dark swamp when the weather was 
 dry, and an offensive, half-stagnant lake when the weather was wet. 
 After it was drained and bridged, the better class gradually migrated 
 northward, and built, on the open plain there, handsome houses of 
 Craigleth stone. 
 
 The Gateway of the Nation's Commerce. 
 
 Though Liverpool may, in a commercial sense, be described as a 
 modern city, it is in reality one of the oldest boroughs in England. Of 
 its very early history comparatively little is known. There is certainly 
 no reference to such a place in the Domestic Book, but there is there a 
 historical record that the land on which it stands was part of the fief 
 granted by William the Conqueror to Roger of Poitou. Of the ancient 
 Liverpool there is now little or no trace. There are no historical build- 
 
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72 A TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 ings worthy of the name. The frowning castle where lived the Lords 
 Molyneux, and the castellated tower, once the residence of the Earls of 
 Derby, and subsequently a felon's prison, have long since disappeared. 
 
 The narrow alleys and wretched hovels which formed the old town 
 were all swept away when Liverpool became a gateway of the nation's 
 commerce, and the site is now covered with palatial marts, vying in 
 splendor and extent with those of any other city in the world. The old 
 Pool — the one sheltering-place where, in the olden times, the small craft 
 frequenting the port found scanty accommodations — is now the site of a 
 stately Custom House, and for miles on both sides is a range of vast 
 docks, the more modern of which are triumphs of engineering skill. The 
 transformation has been so rapid, and is so complete, that it is quite 
 pardonable to speak of Liverpool as a modern city. 
 
 The Liverpool of to-day is a city of spacious thoroughfares and 
 splendid structures. Among its public edifices, St. George's Hall, Town 
 Hall, Municipal Buildings, Custom House, Free Library, Museum, 
 Walker Art Gallery, and Picton Reading Room, form a group of which 
 the citizens are justly proud. St. George's Hall is incomparably the 
 finest structure in the city. It was built by the corporation at a cost of 
 320,000 pounds, for the joint purposes of courts, concert rooms, and 
 public gatherings, and was formally opened in 1854. The hall is sug- 
 gestive of the noblest period of Grecian art. The site on which it stands 
 is open on all sides, so that the building shows well from every point of 
 view. The northern end of the hall is semicircular, while the west 
 facade is distinguished by its square detached pilasters. The principal 
 law courts are situated at each end of the building, the great hall being 
 in the centre. 
 
 The Capital of the British Empire. 
 
 London — the word is sufficient to awaken admiration, to arouse in- 
 terest, and to stimulate curiosity. It is the name of the largest city in 
 the world — greatest, that is to say, in its importance, its commerce, its 
 wealth, its provision for the comfort and health of its inhabitants, its 
 vast extent, its enormous and increasing population. 
 
 It has been said that an adequate impression of what London really 
 is can only be gained by first approaching it by river, and that its vast- 
 ness will be best appreciated by the visitor who embarks on a steamboat 
 

74 
 
 A TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND AND SC01LAND. 
 
 at Shad well, Blackwell, or Greenwich, and so makes a voyage through 
 the Pool, past the Tower, the Custom House, and Billingsgate Market, 
 to London Bridge. Thence the journey by " the silent highway '' of the 
 
 CLOCK TOWER, WESTMINSTER. 
 
 Thames may be continued under the series of noble bridges, beyond the 
 great commercial centre. 
 
 The dome of the vast Cathedral of St. Paul remains ever in view as 
 the centre of London, while the stately towers of the Houses of Parlia- 
 
■-■■■■■ ;; :. ■ -■ 
 
 :iiiiiii!liiin!!l!!!iiin;i=\!P 
 
 
 
76 A TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 ment, standing high above the river bank, and close to the grand old 
 Abbey, mark the sister city of Westminster, which is practically in- 
 cluded in the comprehensive title of the metropolis. We may thus en- 
 deavor to see something of London ; but of its churches, schools, colleges, 
 guilds, newspapers, theatres, halls, museums, public institutions, hospi- 
 tals, refuges, almshouses and charities, we shall be unable to form any 
 adequate estimate. It must still suffice us to say, in the eloquent 
 words of Mr. John Morley, " If you will go on a penny steamer from 
 Blackwell, by the time you arrive at Westminster, or better still, Chel- 
 sea, you will have been brought within three 01 four or half a dozen of 
 the greatest, the most stirring and touching historical monuments on 
 the face of the habitable globe. I know that at Koine you see — you 
 have — a crowd of pathetic and august associations flowing in upon you ; 
 but Kome, as one of our great poets has said, is the ' lone mother of 
 dead Empires.' London is still alive, pulsing through every vein. 
 London sits enthroned at the gates of the sea, the mighty centre — com- 
 mercial, financial, political, social and intellectual — of a vast realm, 
 where English laws, English institutions, the English tongue, and all 
 the treasures of English literature, reign, govern, and enrich the lives 
 and minds of millions of men, generation after generation, all over the 
 
 globe, with a sovereignty that seems imperishable, and destined never 
 to pass away." 
 
 In a different way, but with the same justice, it might be said of 
 London, as of Paris, that it is a world, rather than a city. Its govern- 
 ment is a puzzle to those who are familiar with the organization of more 
 modern cities, and it is only within the last few years that the "greater 
 London," comprising all the districts whose names so confuse the trav- 
 eler, has been brought into the same municipality. But if London is 
 an old city, it is also, and in a very special sense, a modern city. Its 
 growth within the past century has been such as to rival in rapidity, 
 and vastly to surpass in steadiness, that of our American cities. In 
 few, if any, other cities has the problem of rapid transit been so intelli- 
 gently or so boldly attacked, and in no place in the world does the bus- 
 tling life of our century throb with greater force or earnestness. 
 
 Along with the memories of the historic buildings and localities of the 
 commercial centre of the world, the visitor will carry with him, should 
 
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A TRIP THROUGH ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 77 
 
 he be so fortunate, or unfortunate, as to experience it, an abiding 
 recollection of the darkness and confusion, the ludicrous incidents and 
 the serious accidents, inseparable from a London fog. 
 
 Fingal's Cave. 
 
 This cave is a natural grotto, situated in the Island of Staffa, on tlie 
 southwest coast of Scotland. The ocean forms the floor, and is at low 
 
 
 THE MIGHTY FINGAL'S CAVE. 
 
 water twenty feet in depth. The entrance describes an almost perfect 
 Gothic arch. The formation consists of lofty basaltic columns, and the 
 cavity extends about 225 feet from its mouth inward, with a width at 
 the entrance of 42 feet, diminishing to 22 feet at the extreme end. 
 
V. 
 
 THROUGH THE EMERALD ISLE. 
 
 JOXJKNEY through Ireland is a wonderful experience. 
 The beauty of much of the scenery, the fertility of 
 the land, and the misery of the people, will leave 
 upon the mind a succession of pictures which would 
 be delightful if they were not infinitely sad. Could 
 one see only the lakes and rivers, and some streets 
 of Dublin or Belfast, he would remember only the 
 picturesque, and Ireland would be to him only a land 
 of beauty ; but handsome streets or wild scenery cannot 
 'shut from view the presence of a despairing people, and the sight 
 of humanity in distress must destroy one's enjoyment of the 
 most attractive aspects of nature. The history of Ireland has 
 hardly its equal for sadness among all the peoples of the world. So far 
 as we know it, it is almost entirely the story of the dealings of England 
 with a people never wholly conquered, or submissive ; never willing to 
 be really at one with their conquerors ; constantly trying, frequently in 
 a most mistaken and disastrous manner, to right old wrongs; never 
 ready, and probably never able, to let by-gones be by-gones and face the 
 present needs with patience and with courage. 
 
 But let us forget, for a time, these sorrowful and perplexing questions, 
 and enjoy some of the more pleasant views of Ireland and the Irish. 
 
 In the Capital of Ireland. 
 
 The visitor who approaches Dublin by sea will probably think that 
 those Norsemen who came "spying out the country" long ago, showed 
 a nice aesthetic sense when they selected the mouth of the Liffey for their 
 anchorage. The bay of Dublin, viewed from the sea in fine weather, 
 
 (78) 
 
THROUGH THE EMERALD ISLE. 
 
 79 
 
 p 
 
 CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL, DUBLIN. 
 
 offers a rarely beautiful sight. On the left, as one enters the river, is 
 discernible the ir- 
 regular outline of 
 the mountains of 1 
 Dublin and Wick 
 low, peak succeed- 
 ing peak from far | 
 inland to the very 
 edge of the sea, 
 where the bold con- 
 tour of Bray Head 
 cuts off the line of 
 the Wicklow Coast. 
 From this rough 
 romontory, which seems to stand sentinel over the bay, a succession of 
 watering-places occupy the coast. Bray nestles at the foot of its peak, 
 the rallying point for tourists meditating a descent on the scenery of 
 Wicklow ; next to it is Ballybrack, and then succeed Killiny, Dalkey, 
 Kingstown (a flourishing town, happy in "one of the most splendid 
 artificial ports in the United Kingdom," and the station for the dispatch 
 
 and arrival of the 
 mail boats from 
 England), Monks- 
 town, Blackrock, 
 and Sandymount, 
 which closely ad- 
 joins the south- 
 eastern boundary 
 of the city. 
 
 The white villas 
 of which this fringe 
 of buildings along 
 the coast is mainly 
 composed, show 
 to advantage in their leafy setting, ornamental plantations and natural 
 clumps of trees frequently breaking the monotony of the lines of houses, 
 
 ST. PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL, DUBLIN. 
 
 
SO THROUGH THE EMERALD ISLE. 
 
 and the charm of the picture is heightened by the dark background of 
 mountains in the distance. On the right hand an effective contrast to 
 this peaceful prettiness is furnished by the rough grandeur of the 
 promontory of Howth, of which the steep sides, clothed with scanty 
 heather, slope down abruptly to the sea. 
 
 The port is well provided with docks, and great improvements have 
 been made by the Port and Docks Board. The depth of water on the 
 bar has been doubled, the north and south walls have been extended, 
 the system of dredging has been improved ; the channel has been deep- 
 ened and straightened, shoals have been removed and buoys put down ; 
 timber wharves, graving slips, and graving docks have been constructed. 
 Vessels are now built and repaired in port, and vessels from other ports 
 put. in for repairs. 
 
 A Fine Thoroughfare. 
 
 Sackville street, which runs due south from the Eotunda to the Lififey, 
 has long been the pride and boast of the citizens of Dublin. It is a fine 1 
 thoroughfare, exceptionally wide, and flanked by lofty houses, fairly uni- 
 form in size and architecture. The only public building of any impor- 
 tance which it contains is the General Post Office, the entrance to wdiich 
 is from a side street, though its principal front faces on Sackville street, 
 and is adorned with an imposing portico supported by six fluted Ionic 
 columns. Over the portico are three allegorical statues representing Hi- 
 bernia, Mercury, and Fidelity, which have formed a peg on which to 
 hang one of the numerous anecdotes told of the Dublin "jarvey," or 
 hackney-car driver. " What are the statues, Pat ? " asked a tourist. 
 •'Share, sir, thim's the twelve apostles." "Twelve apostles! but there 
 are only three of them. Where are the other nine? " "Arrah, an' where 
 would they be," Pat replies indignantly, "but inside, countin' the let- 
 thers ? Shure you wouldn't have thim all out o' the place at wan time ? " 
 
 Almost directly in front of the Post Office, and right in the centre of the 
 street, rises Nelson's Pillar, a tall fluted column of the Doric order, 
 erected, in 1808, by the Irish admirers of Lord Nelson. The column is 
 one hundred and twenty-one feet high, and is surmounted by a colossal 
 statue of the hero of Trafalgar ; inside there is a spiral staircase by which 
 an ascent can be made to its summit, from which a capital view of the 
 city can be obtained. In Prince's street, an insignificant thoroughfare 
 
THROUGH THE EMERALD ISLE. 
 
 81 
 
 .running westward from Sackville street, are the offices of the Freeman's 
 Journal, a largely circulated and well-managed daily paper, with evening 
 and weekly editions. At the southern end of the street, facing toward 
 O'Connell Bridge, stands Foley's noble statue of Daniel O'Connell, one 
 of the few artistic monuments the city possesses. Sackville street does 
 not present many other features of interest. The houses composing it, 
 though substantial and roomy edifices, are unpretentious from an archi- 
 tectural point of view, and are chiefly occupied by shops, hotels, and 
 offices. Some time ago, the municipal authorities endeavored to improve 
 the street by planting trees along each side, which it was anticipated 
 
 SACKVILLE STREET, DUBLIN. 
 
 would, when grown to a decent size, materially add to its beauty. The 
 trees, however, would not grow, and after languishing through a limp 
 and leafless career of a year or two, died one by one, having served no 
 useful purpose save the provision of material for the comic writers of 
 the city, and the "patter" of the Christmas pantomimes. 
 
 The Commercial Capital of Ireland. 
 
 Belfast is nominally the second city in Ireland ; in reality it is the 
 commercial capital of the country. In Customs revenue it is the third 
 city in the United Kingdom, London and Liverpool alone being ahead 
 
 6 
 
82 
 
 THROUGH THE EMERALD ISLE. 
 
 of it. Linen first made it conspicuous, and for long tlie city seemed 
 content with this single mark of pre-eminence ; but within the last half 
 century it has struck out into other paths. It has assumed a leading 
 position as a ship-building port. The manufacture of machinery is 
 rapidly becoming a great industry in the town ; while Belfast has made 
 for itself an unique position in the concoction of aerated waters. Impar- 
 tial, however, in everything relating to trade, at least, this young city — ■ 
 it was only a "town" until the end of 1888 — has also taken to the 
 manufacture of spirits. 
 
 In itself, Belfast is essentially a modern town. There is nothing 
 
 VIEW OF BELFAST, IRELAND. 
 
 ancient or venerable in its appearance, unless we except the ponderous 
 Cave-hill, lowering over the northern side of the place, with the quaint 
 resemblance to the face of the First Napoleon outlined in the queerly- 
 contorted edge of the topmost ridge. The impression which Belfast 
 most vividly produces on the minds of visitors, is that of newness; the 
 general aspect of the town is modern. There are in it no quaint, vener- 
 able buildings, suggestive of an older civilization. The last thatched 
 roof disappeared many years ago, and there is very little in the city 
 itself to arrest the enthusiastic antiquary. In the surrounding country, 
 however, there is much to interest. From the top of the Cave-hill, one 
 
THROUGH THE EMERALD ISLE. 83 
 
 may not only have a magnificent view of the noble Belfast Lough, with 
 its wide sweep of water, and prominent, occasionally rugged banks, the 
 city extending far to the right and left, but may inspect an interesting 
 series of caves, which were used, no doubt, in ancient days, as dwellings 
 or refuges in time of need, or, as in more recent times, were the resort 
 of holiday roysterers; for Cave-hill was for long the scene of Easter 
 Monday revels, which became a scandal, and had forcibly to be stopped. 
 Or, taking another direction from the town, one may enjoy an examina- 
 tion of the well-preserved " Giant's Ring,' 7 with its central cromlech, and 
 the surrounding Rath, or fort, now a grassy mound, round which, in the 
 far-off centuries, many a vigorous battle must have raged between rival 
 Irish chieftains and their clansmen. 
 
 »A Prosperous City. 
 Limerick is situated about a hundred miles from Dublin, in a direction 
 slightly west of south. It is the capital of the exceedingly fertile county 
 of the same name, and contains more than fifty thousand inhabitants. 
 The county is particularly interesting to the archaeologist, on account of 
 the numerous remains of Cyclopean masonry, military earthworks, an- 
 cient castles, and ruins of religious houses. 
 
 The city fought nobly in the bad cause of Charles I, and surrendered 
 to the parliamentary army only after a gallant defence, in 1651, and it 
 was the last place in Ireland to submit to William III, in 1691. On 
 this latter occasion the inhabitants secured a treaty guaranteeing to 
 Irish Roman Catholics certain religious rights, and granting amnesty 
 to all who took the oath of allegiance. 
 
 The city consists of the " English town," on an island in the Shannon, 
 and the "Irish town" and "Newton Perry," on the left bank of the 
 river. These different portions are connected by several bridges. New- 
 ton Perry is the most attractive portion of the city, being filled with 
 handsome modern dwellings. The houses on the island are principally 
 in the Flemish style. 
 
 The cathedral, with several other places of worship, belong to the 
 established church, or Church of England ; but there are fully as many 
 Catholic churches in the city. The cathedral is noted for its remarkably 
 fine bells. 
 
84 
 
 THROUGH THE EMERALD IfiLE. 
 
 The streets of the city, except in the older portions, are regular and 
 spacious. There is communication by railway or canal with all the 
 principal cities of Ireland, while its spacious harbor admits of extensive 
 shipping. Altogether, Limerick is one of the most prosperous and 
 attractive of Irish cities. 
 
 During all the prolonged conflict between the King of England and 
 the Parliament, the Irish people took the side of the King. The fugitive 
 heir of Charles I could rely upon finding in this Catholic country sym- 
 pathy and such assistance as the weak and ignorant and needy people 
 could supply. But, weak as the people were, it seemed by no means 
 
 BRIDGE OF CROMWELL, AT GLENGARIPF, IRELAND. 
 
 easy for the English to reduce them to subjection, and it was not until 
 Cromwell personally took charge of the conduct of the war that the 
 country was finally brought to submission. He conducted a short, a 
 cruel, but a decisive campaign. He hanged his own soldiers for stealing 
 chickens and issued bibles regularly as part of the necessary provision 
 for his army. 
 
 Cromwell's Bridge. 
 
 It is said that when he came to GlengarifT, in the south of Ireland, he 
 was disappointed at not finding a bridge, and was thus put to con- 
 siderable and vexatious delay. He thereupon gave public notice that 
 
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86 THROUGH THE EMERALD ISLE. 
 
 on his return lie would expect to find a bridge in that place, and that if 
 it was not completed by that time, he would hang a native for each 
 hour's delay. It seems needless to say that the bridge was punctually 
 erected. 
 
 But Cromwell knew how to govern, as well as to conquer, and Macaulay 
 describes his civil policy as "able, straightforward, and cruel." Forty 
 thousand Irishmen found service in foreign armies during his adminis- 
 tration. The Irish Catholic gentry were removed to other districts, and 
 their property confiscated and divided between adventurers who had 
 advanced money and soldiers who had fought in Ireland. The majority 
 of Irish laborers remained to work under the new masters of the soil, 
 and the country became quiet, peaceful, and prosperous. Some of the 
 fighting Catholics betook themselves to the woods and hills and 
 bequeathed their name of Tories to a great political party. Measures 
 of the greatest severity were taken against the priests, but all classes 
 of Protestants were tolerated, and their preachers unmolested. 
 
 Beautiful Scenery. 
 
 No portion of the world is more famous for its beautiful scenery than 
 the neighborhood of Killarney, about fifty miles north of Cork. The 
 noted lakes are about a mile-and-a-half from the town, and are situated in 
 a basin between several lofty mountain groups, some rising abruptly from 
 the water's edge, and all clothed with trees and shrubbery almost to their 
 summits. The lower lake, Lough Leane, with an area of five thousand 
 acres, is studded with finely- wooded islands, on the largest of which are 
 the ruins of Ross castle, the old fortress of the O'Donoghues ; and on 
 another are the picturesque ruins of an abbey founded by St. Finian, 
 at the close of the sixth century. Between this lake and the next, 
 stands Muckrose Abbey, built by the Franciscans, about 1440. The 
 upper lake, also studded with islands and closely shut in by mountains, 
 is connected with the others by the Long Range, a winding channel 
 two-and-a-half miles long, and commanding magnificent views of the 
 mountains. Midway in its course is a lofty pyramidal rock, called the 
 Eagles' Nest, which gives rise to a famous echo. 
 
 A journey to this district will bring very prominently into view the 
 single disagreeable feature of a visit to these lakes, and, indeed, of all 
 
THROUGH THE EMERALD ISLE. 87 
 
 travel in Ireland, the poverty of the people. They will run for miles by 
 the tourist's jaunting-car, hoping at last to beg a few pennies, or possibly 
 to earn them, and their constant presence fills the traveler's heart with 
 sorrow when his beautiful surroundings would otherwise bring him 
 nothing but delight 
 
 Sorrowful and Perplexing Troubles. 
 
 A great Scotchman has devised a very simple method by which all 
 the woes of unhappy Ireland may be relieved. " To cease, generally, 
 from following the Devil," was the suggestion in which, as in a nutshell, 
 Thomas Carry le believed a solution could be found for the questions 
 which British legislators have vainly tried for generations to answer. 
 The soundness of the doctrine cannot be doubted, but it amounts to 
 saying that if every man would but do what he ought, all difficulty 
 between man and man would cease. But the land question in Ireland 
 refuses to wait for the time when all men will do right, and, unfor- 
 tunately, all men are not agreed as to just what is right. To most 
 Americans the questions arising between landlord and tenant seem easy 
 of solution; if the tenant is not suited, or if the rent is too high, let him 
 look elsewhere ; and if he does not pay the rent agreed upon, let the 
 owner of the property turn him out and seize upon his goods in sufficient 
 amount to pay what is due. And so a widespread organization to resist 
 the payment f rent seems contrary to all right and justice. So, too, a 
 supposition that the government fix the rent of property, or that State 
 aid be extended tc tenants who wish to become owners, and that the 
 price of the land be fixed by the courts, is so contrary to our customs as 
 to seem unnatural and unjust. There is probably no better example of 
 the truth of the old saying, that circumstances alter cases. 
 
 Where the people have absolutely no means of living except from the 
 land ; where to refuse to rent land is to invite starvation ; where rents, 
 for generations, have left so small a margin to the tenant as almost to 
 destroy the possibility of a livelihood; where improvements made by the 
 tenant become the property of the landlord, and the basis of an increased 
 rent, and where the tenant has a deep and ever-present feeling that he 
 is himself the rightful heir to the land of which his ancestors were 
 despoiled, the question ceases to be a simple one. Under these circum- 
 
THROUGH THE EMERALD ISLE. 89 
 
 stances one no longer wonders that Irishmen resist eviction, and the 
 troubles in Ireland, while no less sorrowful or perplexing, become at 
 least intelligible. 
 
 This complicated question has, for generations, been the despair of 
 English governments. Perhaps the emigration to America has made 
 the problem less simple, for as the Irishman grows independent in his 
 adopted country, he craves like independence for the people at home, 
 and is ever ready to contribute of his hard earnings to relieve their condi- 
 tion, and to assist in their political battles. The growth of a feeling of 
 independence in Ireland intensified the feeling of hardship and wrong 
 under which the people suffered, and their excitable natures led them, 
 in too many cases, to express their opposition to the existing laws by 
 acts of violence, which sometimes extended to murder and arson. The 
 difficulty of suppressing the agrarian crimes was the occasion for the 
 passage of stringent laws, defining offences, and regulating their 
 punishment, the enforcement of which has often been so harsh and 
 unfeeling, as to justify intelligent people in sympathizing with the law- 
 breakers. Evictions became, in many sections, practically impossible, 
 for, whenever the officers prepared to eject the delinquent tenant, they 
 found him barricaded in his dwelling, and the house surrounded by a 
 constantly increasing crowd of neighbors and friends who were prepared 
 to overwhelm the attacking party, first with a flood of w r ordy abuse, and 
 then with showers of all kinds of missiles. Not only was it an offence 
 against the law thus to resist the officers, but it was manifestly as great 
 an offence to incite the people to resistance, and as resistance to the 
 paying of rent was a part of the political plan of the Irish leaders, it 
 followed that political meetings were " proclaimed" or forbidden, and 
 the party leaders were engaged in a constant effort to evade the law. 
 This resulted in the arrest and imprisonment of the most prominent 
 Irishmen, and this, again, in the eyes of the common people, invested 
 them with the character of martyrs; and thus strife -begat strife, and 
 there seemed no end. Wiser counsels, however, gradually prevailed. 
 Under the lead of cool, clear-headed men, the Irish gradually learned to 
 oppose the system which is hateful to them, and to which they attribute 
 much, if not all, of their suffering, without committing crimes against 
 the law. They have been fortunate in enlisting the sympathy of 
 
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THROUGH THE EMERALD ISLE. 91 
 
 some of the ablest English statesmen of our time, and their chief sources 
 of discouragement, of late, have not been in the attitude of the English 
 government or people, but in the indiscretions, quarrels and excesses of 
 their own leaders. 
 
 A Celebrated and Peculiar Locality. 
 
 But let us turn again to a more pleasant subject. There is no 
 locality in the British Islands more celebrated, none certainly more 
 peculiar, than the Giants' Causeway. England presents nothing like 
 it; Staffa, in Scotland, has its basaltic columns to claim a sisterhood in 
 its geological origin — but that is all. This wonderful congregation of 
 fantastic headlands, majestic columns, beautiful bays, and picturesque 
 caves along the winding shore, is unequaled. This is the glory of the 
 north, as Killarney is of the south, and Connemara of the west of 
 Ireland. 
 
 The Giants' Causeway is the low, rocky mole, composed of columnar 
 basalt, separating Port Ganniay from Port Noffer. Its outline is very 
 irregular : the greatest length seven hundred feet, the greatest breadth 
 three hundred and fifty, the greatest height thirty-three feet, and the 
 area about three acres. Agreeably to natural formation, it is divided 
 into the Little, the Middle, and the large or Grand Causew r ay. Here we 
 see some 40,000 basaltic polygonal pillars — shaved, as it were, on the 
 surfaces, and set like mosaics — in diameter varying from fifteen inches to 
 twenty-six inches, and sinking down to an unascertained depth, "fitted 
 as close and compact as if each stone had been dressed and laid by art." 
 
 The ancient legend, devoutly believed by the people, is this: "The 
 great warrior of Irish annals, Finn McCoul, the popular corruption of 
 the name of Fingal, the son of Comhal, 'the king of heroes,' and whose 
 exploits are the theme of many of the epics of his son Ossian — magni- 
 fied, like many another hero, into grotesque proportions when seen 
 through the mists of antiquity — desired to establish a highway between 
 his own country and Scotland, with which he maintained constant inter- 
 course ; and so he wrought this wondrous road all across to the opposite 
 mainland, so that the giants in both countries might pass to and fro." 
 
VI. 
 
 NORTHERN FRANCE AND 
 
 BELGIUM. 
 
 TOUR of Europe would be particularly incomplete 
 without a visit to the low countries, the Niederlande, 
 so called because many portions of them are below 
 the level of the sea. 
 
 Art, History and Legend on Every Hand. 
 
 But before we introduce the reader to the great 
 fe'JP cities of Belgium, we shall visit, as though on our 
 
 way from Paris, one of the most interesting cities of 
 northern France, renowned for its architectural monuments, 
 the beauty of its situation, and its historical associations, 
 befrinnins: with the raids of the Northmen, who gave to this district the 
 name of Normandy. In whatever part of Normandy the visitor begins 
 his journey, he will very soon make his way to its former capital, Rouen. 
 The Seine, much broader here than at Pans, is crowded with shipping, and 
 gives this inland city a maritime appearance ; the boulevards taking the 
 place of leveled fortifications remind one of Paris, while near almost any 
 part of them the visitor may find himself in quaint and narrow streets, 
 among gabled houses with strange carvings. Here are two of the most 
 beautiful Gothic edifices in the world — the Church of St. Ouen, and the 
 Palais de Justice, that is, the Law Courts. The latter building is 
 situated nearly in the centre of the city, but as it faces on a narrow 
 street, its best portions cannot be seen to advantage ; the interior view 
 from the court is, however, very fine. Airiness, grace, and good taste are 
 the qualities of this rich ornamentation, anything finer than which it is 
 
 (93) 
 
94 NORTHERN FRANCE AND BELGIUM. 
 
 difficult to imagine. JS"ot only the octagonal towers in the centre, but 
 the niches with their numerous statues, the beautifully sculptured 
 windows, the arcades which form a gallery, the dormer windows with 
 their mass of turrets and pillars, hold the attention, not only of the 
 architect or artist, but of every intelligent traveler. If we go from the 
 boulevards or from the railway station into the Rue Jeanne d'Arc, we 
 notice to our left a tower called La Tour de Jeanne, d'Arc. This is, 
 however, not the identical tower in which Jeanne d'Arc, or the Maid of 
 Orleans, was imprisoned; the latter formed one of the seven towers 
 surrounding the still existing castle, and was destroyed in 1809. A 
 little farther on we come to the Place de la Paille, or the Maid of 
 Orleans Square, where Jeanne d'Arc was burnt to death, a victim to 
 the stupid and revengeful bigotry of her time. But we must not linger 
 too long with historic details. We need only to go on a few steps to find 
 ourselves before another interesting monument of earlier centuries — less 
 important than others, no doubt, but not less characteristic of this 
 strange city, where art, history, and legend are on every side — the great 
 clock " le Gros HorlogeJ 1 A triumphal arch supports the enormous dial 
 plate, under which passes one of the most busy streets of the city. The 
 mechanism of the clock itself dates from 1389, and precedes the con- 
 struction of the tower which encloses it, the arch which spans the street, 
 and the ancient city hall. No true citizen of Rouen neglects to set his 
 watch, when, in the evening, it strikes on its silver bell the hour of nine 
 — the u couvre-feu v (that is, the " cover -the- fire signal,'' 1 the English 
 curfew), prescribed by the ancient Duke William of Normandy. 
 
 One Vast Continuous Village. 
 
 From Rouen we go to Amiens, wmence, following the French coast, 
 we may reach the lowlands of Belgium, or, keeping to the right, enter 
 it by its industrial section. The northern and eastern provinces of 
 Belgium, in their flatness, fertility, and the number of their canals 
 and dykes, can be geographically regarded only as a continuation of 
 Holland, and this portion teems with population, so that, in traversing 
 it, it has the appearance of one vast continuous village. The south- 
 ern provinces, on the contrary, consist, in a great degree, of rugged 
 mountains covered with dense forests, intersected by rapid streams, and 
 
NORTHERN FRANCE AND BELGIUM. 
 
 95 
 
 abounding in really picturesque scenery, the effect of which is increased 
 by the frequent occurrence of old, feudal castles. It is especially along 
 the river Meuse that the interesting scenery is found, and although the 
 part below the city of Namur is most frequented by travelers, yet all the 
 upper district is well worth a visit. For a considerable distance the 
 river is hemmed in by magnificent bluffs of limestone. Below Dinant 
 rises the castle of Porlvache, and quite near the town stands the ruined 
 castle of Bonvigne. During the siege of this place by the French, under 
 the Duke de Nevers (1554), three beautiful women retired with their 
 
 THE RIVER MEUSE, AT FREYR, BELGIUM. 
 
 husbands into one of the towers, hoping to assist and encourage the 
 garrison by their presence. The defence was obstinate, but at last they 
 were all slain but the three heroines, who, unwilling to submit to the 
 brutality of the conquerors, threw themselves from the top of the tower, 
 in sight of the French, and were dashed to pieces on the rocks. About 
 half a mile above Dinant, the road goes through a kind of natural portal, 
 a long, narrow ridge or wall of rock, projecting from the precipitous cliffs 
 on the right, and on the left a pointed and bold isolated mass of rock, 
 called the Koche Bayard (Bayard Rock). The finest point on the Meuse 
 is about three miles above the Bayard Rock, at the castle of Fuyr, of 
 
96 NORTHERN FRANCE AND BELGIUM. 
 
 which our picture shows one tower, a country seat with beautiful garden*, 
 situated on the left bank of the river, at the base of cliffs and richly 
 wooded hills, furrowed by ravines. Within the grounds is a pretty, 
 natural grotto, abounding in stalactites, and singularly lighted by an 
 aperture in the rocks. Opposite to Fuyr the stupendous cliffs of lime- 
 stone rise directly from the Meuse, presenting many striking forms and 
 outlines, sometimes jutting out in ledges, at other times separated into 
 isolated fragments; sometimes the upper part projects and overhangs 
 the river. 
 
 The Battle at Sedan. 
 
 It is but a few miles from this point to French territory, the border town 
 being (rivet, and it may not be amiss to remind the reader that about 
 forty miles to the south, at Sedan, one of the most important battles of the 
 Franco-Prussian war was fought. Napoleon with the French army was 
 practically surrounded in the fortress of Sedan. The pride of Napoleon 
 III gave way; the city and the army surrendered, and the emperor, him- 
 self, wrote to King William: "Having failed to rind death in the midst 
 of my troops, it only remains for me to lay my sword at your majesty's 
 feet. I remain, your majesty's good brother, Napoleon." And, on Sep- 
 tember 2, 1870, Napoleon, a fugitive from his own troops and from 
 France, left Sedan. He became a prisoner of war, and the king 
 assigned for his abode, until the end of the conflict, the Wilhelmshohe at 
 Cassel, one of the finest residences in Germany. Following the Meuse 
 downward we come to Namur, the Belgian Sheffield, renowned for its 
 cutlery. Only about fifteen miles away to the west, we should reach a 
 part of Belgium which has been called the " Cock-pit" of Europe, because 
 it has been for ages the ground upon which the powers of Europe have 
 decided their quarrels. The fields of Ligny, Fleurus, Quatre Bras, and 
 best known of all, Waterloo, confirm this statement. It was on the road 
 from Waterloo, near the town of Genape, that the Prussians captured 
 the carriage of Napoleon I, on the night after the battle, and nearly 
 took him prisoner. From this place to Sedan, where Napoleon III sur- 
 rendered, is but about sixty miles. 
 
 The Belgian Birmingham. 
 
 As Namur has been called the Belgian Sheffield, so Liege, still farther 
 down the picturesque Meuse, has been styled the Belgian Birmingham, 
 
98 NORTHERN FRANCE AND BELGIUM. 
 
 and the clouds of smoke, usually seen from a distance hanging over it, 
 proclaim the manufacturing city. It is noted for its firearms, and leaves 
 the impression of one great armory. As in Pittsburg, coal is con- 
 veniently at hand ; in fact, some of the mines are situated so near the 
 town that their galleries are carried under the streets, so that many of 
 the houses, and even, in some places, the bed of the river, are under- 
 mined. With all this air of a modern manufacturing city there are 
 many architectual monuments of former times to attract the visitor, the 
 best worthy of notice being the interior court of the Palais de Justice. 
 
 We have now almost reached the border of Germany, and turn our 
 steps westward and northward into the Flemish section, where on every 
 side we shall see the witnesses of a past glory. Our first stop shall be 
 at Louvain, in Flemish written Loven, and in German Lowen. In the 
 fourteenth century the capital of the Duchy of Brabant, it had more in- 
 habitants than at present, and contained no less than 2000 manu- 
 factories ; and what we shall say of Ypres and Bruges applies in part 
 to Louvain. In our hurried visit we pass by many points of interest ; 
 the Town Hall, one of the most beautiful Gothic buildings in the world ; 
 the Guild Hall, erected by the weavers in 1317, and stop to take a 
 glance at the beautiful interior of the Cathedral of St. Peter. What 
 attracts our attention most is the highly ornamented rood-loft, dividing 
 the choir from the nave, and surmounted by a lofty cross. In this piece 
 of work of the fifteenth century, the artist has given free rein to his 
 caprice in the wonderful intertwining of foliage and the numerous 
 statuettes above the three arches. We might linger longer and admire 
 the great altars, the beautifully carved pulpit, and the numerous chapels. 
 
 A Horrible Tragedy. 
 
 As we pass before the Town Hall Ave recall a horrible tragedy which 
 blots the history of Louvain. The weavers throughout Flanders were a 
 turbulent class and jealous of their rights as against the nobles, and 
 many tragic scenes were enacted in consequence. During an insurrec- 
 tion, thirteen magistrates, of noble families, were thrown from a window 
 in this Town Hall and received by the populace below on the points of 
 their spears. But no sooner had the people in many sections secured 
 equal rights with the nobles than dissensions began to undermine the 
 

 NORTHERN FRANCE AND BELGIUM. 99 
 
 political victories they had won. They aroused the jealousy of other 
 nations, especially of the Spaniards. Siege after siege follows, their 
 life's blood is drawn by Alvarez de Toledo, and the saddest hour in the 
 history of Flanders has come. The cities are destroyed, not allowed to 
 be rebuilt, the artisans in crowds emigrate to France, Holland, and Eng- 
 land, and enrich those countries with their skill. In the sixteenth cen- 
 tury Ypres, which, in the fourteenth century, has boasted 200,000 in- 
 habitants and 4000 looms, has a population of only 5000, and the grass 
 grows in the streets. Within the last century there has been a slight 
 revival, yet Ypres possesses to-day but a shadow of its former greatness. 
 The only relic which remains to prove its former greatness is the Cloth 
 Hall, called Les Halles, in the great market place, a building of pro- 
 digious size, and in a rich style of Gothic architecture, surmounted by a 
 tower 230 feet high in the centre. A feeling of sadness takes possession 
 of us ; the whole city is like a vast graveyard, where everything speaks 
 of death, and where life, the pale melancholy life that it is, is only a 
 contrast to render more apparent the general decadence. In the gloom 
 of night the Hall rises like a mountain of stone, and its immensity, in- 
 creased by confusing darkness, serves still better to impress on the 
 visitor the feeling of irremediable decay. Those who built these monu- 
 ments thought, however, that their work would continue to symbolize 
 the liberties they had gained, and would be an enduring reminder to 
 their descendants, as well as to themselves, of the splendor of the task 
 accomplished. 
 
 Fantastic Houses. 
 
 At Ypres, as at Bruges and Ghent, the picturesqueness of the houses, 
 the fantastic variety of gable ends rising stepwise, or ornamented with 
 scrolls and carving, arrest the stranger's eye at every turn, as the reader 
 may judge for himself by taking a closer look at the houses adjoining 
 the great Hall. In many of the Belgian cities we find huge belfry 
 towers, and the most noted are those of Bruges and Ghent. One of the 
 earliest privileges which the citizens obtained from their feudal lords 
 was to be allowed to build belfries, and they long regarded them as a 
 kind of monument of their power and wealth. These structures origin- 
 ally served as watch towers, from which the. approach of an enemy 
 might be descried, and they contained the tocsin bell, by the tolling of 
 LofC. 
 
THE BELFRY AT BRUGES, BELGIUM. 
 
NORTHERN FRANCE AND BELGIUM. 
 
 101 
 
 which the citizens were called to arms or to debate. One of the bells in 
 Ghent still bears the following inscription : " Mynen naem ist Roelant: 
 als ick clippe dan ist brandt ; als ick luyde, dan ist Storm in Ylaender- 
 landt," which translated is : " My name is Roland : when I toll there is 
 fire; when I ring, then there is storm (i. e., war) in Flanders." The 
 tower at Bruges, an elegant Gothic structure, rising to the height of 325 
 feet, fills the visitor with admiration. The building from which it rises 
 was in olden days a Trade Hall, but part of it is now occupied as a meat 
 market. The view from the top is most extensive, but brings to mind, 
 as at Ypres, the great contrast of the dead city of to-day and the 
 metropolis of former times. For Bruges was rich and powerful, when 
 Antwerp and Ghent were only in their infancy ; it now has only 51,000 in- 
 habitants, one-fourth of whom are said to be paupers. We can follow 
 the two canals, which connect it with the North Sea, and the other 
 canals which connect it with Ghent, Ypres, and other cities. Before us 
 are broad streets and numerous old houses which recall its ancient glory, 
 for of all the cities of Belgium, Bruges has best preserved its mediaeval 
 characteristics. In this tower are the finest chimes in Europe, ringing 
 almost incessantly. The Netherlander seem to have a great fondness 
 for chimes, for they are in every city. 
 
 In the fourteenth century the commerce of the world may be said to 
 have been concentrated in Bruges. Companies of merchants from 
 seventeen kingdoms were settled here as agents ; twenty foreign 
 ministers had palaces within its walls. Bruges had become the metrop- 
 olis of the cities of the great Hanseatic league, the centre of the English 
 wool trade, and the resort of Lombard and Yenetian traders. Richly 
 laden argosies from Yenice, Genoa, and Constantinople, might, at the 
 same time, be seen unloading in her harbor ; and her warehouses groaned 
 with bales of wool from England, linen from Belgium, and silk from the 
 east. 
 
VII. 
 
 A GLANCE AT HOLLAND. 
 
 B AMICIS says that the Dutch have three enemies— 
 the sea, the lakes, and the rivers; they repel the 
 sea, they dry the lakes, and they imprison the 
 rivers ; but with the sea it is a combat which never 
 ceases. 
 
 In some parts of the country, as in Zealand, the 
 land is all cut up into vast polders, as the huge 
 meadows are called, which are recovered from the 
 sea and protected by embankments. Here, if human 
 care was withdrawn for six months, the whole country 
 would be under the sea again. A corps of engineers, called 
 "water-staat," are continually employed to watch the waters, and to 
 keep in constant repair the dykes, which are formed of clay at the 
 bottom, as that is more water-proof than anything else, and thatched 
 with willows, which are grown here extensively for the purpose. If the 
 sea passes a dyke, ruin is imminent, an alarm bell rings, and the whole 
 population rushes to the rescue. The moment one dyke is even menaced, 
 the people begin to build another inside it, and they rely upon the 
 double defence, whilst they fortify the old one. But all their care has 
 not preserved the islands of Zealand. Three centuries ago Schouwen was 
 entirely submerged, and very living creature was drowned. Soon after, 
 Noordt Beveland was submerged, and remained for several years en- 
 tirely under water, only the points of the church spires being visible. 
 Zuid Beveland had been submerged in the fourteenth century. Walchreen 
 was submerged as late as 1808, and Tholen even in 1825. 
 
 (102) 
 
A GLANCE AT HOLLAND. 
 
 103 
 
 "A Country that Draws Fifty Feet of Water." 
 
 The story of the famous siege of 1749 makes us linger at Bergen-op- 
 Zoom, a clean, dull little town with bright white houses surrounding an 
 irregular market-place, and surmounted by the heavy tower of the 
 
 Church of St. Gertrude. In the Stadhuis is 
 a tine carved stone chimney-piece ; but there 
 is little worth seeing, and we are soon speeding 
 across the rich pastures of Zuid Beveland, 
 and passing its capital of Goes, prettily situ- 
 ated among the cherry orchards, the beautiful 
 cruciform church with a low central spire rising 
 above the trees on its ramparts. Every now and 
 then the train seems scarcelv out of the water, 
 which covers a vast surface of the pink-green 
 flats, and recalls the description in Hudibras, of 
 " A country that draws fifty feet of water." 
 The peasant women at the stations are a per- 
 
 BOLSWARD, A VILLAGE IN HOLLAND. 
 
 petual amusement, for there is far more costume here than in most parts 
 of Holland, and peculiar, square, handsome gold ornaments, something 
 like closed golden books, are universally worn on each side of the face. 
 
104 A GLANCE AT HOLLAND. 
 
 The Largest Village in Europe. 
 
 It is a brief journey to the Hague — La Have, Gravenhage — most de- 
 lightful of little capitals, with its comfortable hotels and pleasant sur- 
 roundings. The town is still so small that it seems to merit the name 
 of "the largest village in Europe" which was given to it because the 
 jealousy of other towns prevented its having any vote in the States 
 General till the time of Louis Bonaparte, who gave it the privilege of a 
 city. It is said that the Hague, more than any other place, may recall 
 what Versailles was just before the great revolution. It has thoroughly 
 the aspect of a little royal city. Without any of the crowd and bustle 
 of Amsterdam and Eotterdam, it is not dead like the smaller towns of 
 Holland ; indeed, it even seems to have a quiet gaiety, without dissipa- 
 tion, of its own. All around are parks and gardens, whence wide streets 
 lead speedily through the new town of the rich bourgeoise to the old 
 central town, where a beautiful lake, the Yijver, or fish pond, comes as 
 a surprise, with the eccentric old palace of the Binnenhof rising straight 
 out of its waters. We have been told it is picturesque, but we are pre- 
 pared for nothing so charming as the variety of steep roofs and towers, 
 the clear reflections, the tufted islet and the beautiful coloring of the 
 whole scene of the Vijver. Skirting the lake, we enter the precincts of 
 the palace, through the picturesque Gudevangen Poort, where Cornelius 
 de Witte, Burgomaster of Dort, was imprisoned in 1672, on a false 
 accusation of having suborned the surgeon William Tichelaur to murder 
 the Prince of Orange. He was dragged out hence and torn to pieces by 
 the people, together with his brother Jean de Witte, Grand Pensioner, 
 whose house remains hard by in the Kneuterdijk. 
 
 The court of the Binnenhof is exceedingly handsome, and contains the 
 ancient Gothic Hall of the Knights, where Johann van Olden Barneveld, 
 Grand Pensioner, or Prime Minister, was condemned to death "for hav- 
 ing conspired to dismember the States of the Netherlands, and greatly 
 troubled God's Church," and in the front of which (May 24, 1619) he 
 was beheaded. 
 
 Many Works of Great Masters. 
 
 Close to the northeast gate of the Binnenhof is the handsome house 
 called Mauritshuis, containing the inestimable Picture Gallery of the 
 Hague, which will bear many visits, and has the charm of not being 
 
A GLANCE AT HOLLAND. 
 
 105 
 
 huge beyond the powers of endurance. On the ground floor are chiefly 
 portraits, amongst which a simple dignified priest by Philippe de Cham- 
 paigne, with a far-away expression, will certainly arrest attention. 
 Deeply interesting is the portrait by Ravesteyn of William the Silent, in 
 his ruff and steel armor embossed with gold — a deeply lined face, with 
 a slight peaked beard. His widow, Louise de Coligny, is also repre- 
 sented. There is a fine portrait, by Schalcken, of William the Third, of 
 England. Noble likenesses of Sir George Sheffield and his wife, Anna 
 
 A. TYPICAL DUTCH SCENE, WITH WINDMILL AND CANALS, NEAR DRACHTEN, HOLLAND. 
 
 Wake, by Vandyke, are a pleasing contrast to the many works of Rubens. 
 There are deeply interesting portraits by Albert Durer and Holbein. 
 
 A group of admirers will always be found round "the Immortal Bull" 
 of Paul Potter, w T hich was considered the fourth picture in importance in 
 the Louvre, when the spoils of Europe were collected at Paris. De 
 Amicis says, "It lives, it breathes; with his bull Paul Potter has written 
 the true Idyl of Holland." It is, however — being really a group of cattle 
 — not a pleasing, though a life-like picture. 
 
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VIII. 
 
 A TRAMP THROUGH GERMANY. 
 
 N July nineteenth, 1870, France declared war 
 against Germany. With bated breath the world 
 looked on and asked : Would France with vic- 
 torious armies sweep over Germany, crush the 
 growing Prussian state, extend her sway beyond 
 the German Khine, over the Southern states, leave 
 Germany mangled and bleeding from wounds 
 which only centuries could heel, and render her 
 of no importance in the council of nations; or 
 would the sudden danger, the bold affront, arouse every 
 German, East and West, North and South, and would the dream of cen- 
 turies be fulfilled, the ever recurring burden of German poets from 
 ancient to modern times, a United Germany f The answer came said 
 history recorded it. At the beginning of this century Germany w r as buv 
 " a geographical expression ; " in 1871 it had become the foremost 
 nation in Europe. It stretches from Holland, Belgium and France in 
 the West, to Kussia and Austria in the East, and from the North Sea, 
 Denmark and the Baltic on the north, to Austria and Switzerland on 
 the south, and is made up of twenty-six principalities, the smallest of 
 which is not much larger than the city of Philadelphia. Its area is 
 about equal to that of six of our middle states, and its longest line will 
 be about 900 miles. Within this area, however, what a variety of 
 scenes ; of mountain ranges and valleys ; what rivers, lined with ancient 
 ruins and dismantled castles ; what cities, in which the very stones 
 bring to our mind the picturesque life of the Middle Ages ; what cathe- 
 drals, whose lofty towers point significantly to heaven, and are the liv- 
 
 (107) 
 
108 A TRAMP THROUGH GERMANY. 
 
 ing witnesses of a pious age ; what industrial centres and modern cities ; 
 in fine, what interesting variations of race, and language, of life, man- 
 ners, dress and customs. 
 
 In the Rhine Valley. 
 
 The traveler, after a few days in the quaint cities of Holland, hastens 
 to Cologne. The view of the great Cathedral, whose twin towers, un- 
 finished for centuries, were completed since 1871 as a monument and 
 symbol of United Germany, more than fulfils his highest anticipations. 
 Then comes the journey up the Ehine, to the traveler who, under favor- 
 able circumstances, takes it for the first time, more like a dream than 
 reality, and then, in rapid succession, " fair Bingen on the Rhine," 
 Mainz, Frankfurt, Heidelberg, and Strassburg, until farther on appear, 
 high above the other mountains, mass piled upon mass, in dazzling 
 splendor, the incomparable Bernese Alps. And yet he is here only on 
 the western border of Germany ; as interesting cities, rich in treasures 
 of art and ancient architecture, invite him eastward and northward. 
 
 The writer will never regret that one summer he turned aside from the 
 beaten path and spent a few days in Hildesheim, the Niirnberg of the 
 North. Like so many cities of Germany, it belonged to the great Hanse- 
 atic league, and owes many of its buildings to that period of prosperity. 
 To one of the bishoprics established by Charlemagne, about 800, in the 
 land of the pagan Saxons, Hildesheim owes its origin, yet in its name 
 lingers the memory of pagan times, for it means the home of Hilde. The 
 writer knows of few German cities where the ancient appearance is so 
 well preserved ; and while the city has grown, and has its modern parts, 
 with wide streets and avenues, the ancient compact city remains almost 
 intact; the walls and fortifications have been partially leveled, and 
 changed into shady walks and drive-ways ; here and there a bit of wall, 
 a gateway, or a tower remaining to add picturesqueness to the scene. 
 Some of the houses are six and seven stories hich ; the oaken beams 
 show the manner of construction, and what parts are not taken up with 
 frescoing, are covered with carvings, some crude, some exceedingly deli- 
 cate, and with inscriptions. It is interesting to note that with the 
 Reformation there came a change over the thoughts of the people, and 
 the older mythological carvings and inscriptions gave place to subjects 
 
A TRAMP THROUGH GERMANY. 10b 
 
 from the Bible, and passages from the Psalms. Its churches, too, are 
 interesting, and renowned for their treasures, the Cathedral having been 
 built during the middle of the eleventh century, and on the site of one 
 built by Louis the Pious, in 818, which last is said to have been the site 
 of a pagan shrine. 
 
 Lordly Castles. 
 
 The reader's attention has already been called to the ruins of ancient 
 castles, which crown so many heights. Time was when other thoughts 
 than picturesqueness struck the merchant who had to pass them. They 
 are the relics of the age when might was right, and every noble 
 governed as he pleased, and levied heavy toll upon all who passed 
 through his land, often at the point of the sword. These lordly castles, 
 especially along the great rivers Rhine and Danube, now are fallen in 
 ruins, like the feudal system which gave them life. Their ruins now add 
 to the picturesqueness of the scene ; nature has dealt kindly with them, 
 and massive trees grow through their walls, and ivy clings to every 
 crevice. If these walls could speak, what deeds of cruelty they would 
 disclose, what feuds, what fratricidal strife ! But if these times were 
 barbarous, they were also heroic and full of romance, aud many a castle 
 could witness to the heroic lives of men, and especially to holy lives of 
 noble women. Even the reader of this practical age loves to linger 
 over the pages of those authors who have made these times their theme, 
 and involuntarily the wish arises that there were more dash of romance 
 in this every-day life of ours. Perhaps it is distance that lends en- 
 chantment, and there is more romance in the present than we think, if 
 we only have the eyes to see it. 
 
 The most extensive of modern German castles was begun in the 
 southern part of Bavaria, by the late unfortunate King Louis II. In 
 1871, in the name of the other princes, he offered the imperial crown to 
 the King of Prussia, but later, becoming insane, he was dethroned and 
 placed under medical care, which, on June 13, 1886, he eluded, finding 
 his death in a lake near his retreat. The mountaineers could never be 
 persuaded that his dethronement was necessary. Said our hostess, who 
 wore in a medallion the likeness of the king, " Did he not have the right 
 to live according to his own tastes, and did not people run long distances 
 to admire him, when he used to pass, in the dead of the night, in his 
 
110 A TRAMP THROUGH GERMANY. 
 
 magnificent golden sleigh, drawn by milk-white steeds, like those 
 winces of ancient times ? " 
 
 The slope on which New Schwanstein stands is thickly covered with 
 pines and other forest trees, and the prospect is an entrancing one, em- 
 bracing the broad plain, the course of the river Lech, and no less than 
 four lakes immediately beneath, whose waters darkly reflect the forest- 
 covered heights which gird them round. 
 
 Characteristic Beverage. 
 
 No account of Germany would be complete without reference to the 
 beverage of the land and the places in which it is dispensed. In no 
 State is it more carefully brewed than in the kingdom of Bavaria, and 
 the names "Munchner," "Wurzburger," and "Augsburger" figure promi- 
 nently on signs, not only in Germany, but other parts of Europe, and 
 even in this country. If age invests anything with respectability, we 
 cannot afford to scoff at German beer. The ancient Germans brewed it 
 and quaffed it from immense horns, and to this day the custom prevails 
 among certain student fraternities of carrying one of these huge horns, 
 from which, on special occasions, the members drink in long draughts. 
 
 The places where the beverage is dispensed are as various as one can 
 conceive, but as Baltimore suggests terrapin, and a New England shore 
 a clam bake, so one should take a bumper of Munchner in a Rathskeller 
 or Tiefenkeller, like the one shown in our picture. No doubt basements 
 or cellars were preferred on account of their comparative coolness, but 
 many of the finest establishments are now above ground. The best are 
 fitted up in a style which makes them worthy of a visit, just to see the 
 interesting frescoing, the wood panelling, or the faithful reproduction of 
 old German style. They are numerous in all German cities, and no 
 other proof is needed that Strassburg is a German city, notwithstanding 
 its two centuries under French rule, than to see the thorough German 
 appearance of the Tiefenkeller itself and of its patrons. Music often 
 enlivens the scene, and when on occasion some popular air is played the 
 guests in the public room join in with a vim. The patronage of such a 
 place is always typical, and affords to the student of human nature rare 
 opportunities. The soldier is ever present and forces the idea of a mili- 
 tary government upon the visitor; the ubiquitous university student 
 
A TRAMP THROUGH GERMANY. 
 
 Ill 
 
 serves to recall to his mind the many universities of the land, and that, 
 though the military power is great, the educational is still greater. 
 
 Treading the ancient lanes of the old city we presently come upon its 
 various points of interest : the churches of St. Stephen and St. Thomas, 
 the splendid Jewish synagogue, the noble library and the famous picture 
 gallery. We shall find breweries and bleacheries and dye-works, and 
 
 INTERIOR OF THE "TIEFENKELLER," AT STRASSBURG, GERMANY. 
 
 then more breweries, and we shall do w r ell to test the pastry for which 
 the town is noted, its goose-liver pies. 
 
 A Region of Beauty and Romance. 
 
 Day after day for many years, the writer had seen from his home, near 
 the foot of the Black Forest, the outline of the great Cathedral, and 
 behind it, in the greater distance, the long outline of the Yosges moun- 
 tains. Occasionally, at some brilliant sunset, the mountains would 
 seem lined w T ith gold, but never did this region of beauty and ro- 
 mance seem less prosy, than when, a few years ago, after many years 
 of absence, he was permitted to gaze from the tower of Strassburg Cathe- 
 
112 A TRAMP THROUGH GERMANY. 
 
 dral on what has been called the garden of Germany. About fifteen 
 miles to the west the jagged outlines of the Vosges Mountains run for 
 nearly one hundred miles north and south ; the Rhine sweeps along, and 
 %r to north and south appears like a thread of silver ; to the east about 
 ^en miles away extends, parallel to the Yosges, the Black Forest. The 
 plain between, as far as the eye can reach, is dotted with cities, towns, 
 and villages, while here and there are the sombre hues of extensive 
 forests. At our feet is Strassburg, the old city, with its high red-tiled 
 gables just beneath us, while beyond stretches the modern part, and 
 still beyond the formidable fortifications, which make Strassburg almost 
 an impregnable city. 
 
 By August 24, 1870, a German army division had surrounded 
 Strassburg, and from this time to September 27th, the bombardment 
 lasted without intermission. The roar of cannon was continuous, shatter- 
 ing the windows in many of the surrounding towns ; the nights were 
 made bright with the glare 'of the burning city. From high points we 
 watched the movements of the army, when the French attempted sallies. 
 But at last the w T hite flag appeared. Much valuable property was 
 destroyed, but w 7 ith some slight damages, which have been repaired, the 
 great Cathedral, standing on the site of a church of the fifth century, 
 itself begun in 1015 and completed in 1449, was saved ; and every 
 traveler may still draw inspiration from it, and raise his eyes, as pious 
 Tauter did of old, " dizzily up to where in the noon-brightness the great 
 Minister's tower, jeweled with sunbeams on its mural crown, rose like a 
 visible prayer." 
 
 A Great Cathedral. 
 
 The visitor lingers to admire the numerous small statues with which 
 the grand portals are adorned, then enters ; but only gradually does the 
 evidence of a master's hand dawn upon him, as in the subdued and 
 hallowed light, which comes through many stained windows, all works 
 of art, his eye tries to measure height and length of nave and transept. 
 No pews break up the space of the stone floor, but at service the Avor- 
 shipers, each with his chair, gather around the pulpit. The high altar, 
 as a piece of workmanship in carving, may well arouse admiration. But 
 the altar which to this day remains an object of the greatest admiration 
 o architects as well as others, is the altar in the Cathedral of Alt- 
 
114 A TRAMP THROUGH GERMANY. 
 
 Breisach, an ancient town farther up the Rhine, It is carved entirely 
 of wood, and standing in the choir reaches to its highest point. The 
 story goes that Lieferinck, the workman, was in love with the daughter 
 of Town Councillor Rubacher. He refused to vote to have the work of 
 building a new altar entrusted to Lieferinck, but a letter from the great 
 Durer at JNTurnberg won the day for the struggling artist. Lieferinck 
 now made bold to ask Rubacher for his daughter, but was refused, and 
 in a fit of passion the father exclaimed : " You shall have my daughter 
 only if you can make an altar higher than the choir of the church." 
 This seemed an impossibility, and for a while the young man's hopes 
 were dashed. One day, however, he was standing by a rose-bush trained 
 up in a niche of a wall, where he and his love had often secretly met, and 
 offered a devout prayer, when suddenly the rose-bush broke away from 
 its confined position in the niche ; and then was revealed to him how he 
 must build his altar, namely curve it, so that, if measured, it would 
 prove higher than the choir. The plan proved a success and Rubacher 
 was held to his promise. 
 
 A Wonderful Clock. 
 
 No stranger stops at Strassburg without going to see, at least once, at 
 the stroke of noon, the wonderful clock. Young and old, men, women 
 and children, soldiers and workmen, farmers who have come to market, 
 Alsatian villagers with the characteristic head dress, peasants from 
 across the Rhine with their red waistcoats, English tourists in file with 
 their cicerone, their eyes fixed upon the inevitable Baedeker, all push 
 and jostle to get a good place near the church guardian who explains 
 the mechanism and symbolism of this wonderful clock. 
 
 These cathedrals bring vividly to our mind the power of the church 
 during former centuries ; but these are not the only evidences. In very 
 early times, the church with its institutions was the only safeguard 
 against the barbarism of the age. It alone, in its many monasteries, 
 fostered learning, and treasured for future and riper times the classics of 
 Greece and Rome. But gradually with accumulated wealth came luxury 
 and idleness, and many of these monasteries became hotbeds of corrup- 
 tion. The minds of many holy men turned to these abuses, and many 
 reforms took place, none more thorough than that which gave rise to the 
 Order of Trappists, named after a great Cistercian monastery, at La 
 
A TRAMP THROUGH GERMANY. 
 
 115 
 
 Trappe, in northern France, which existed as early as the middle of 
 the twelfth century. The reform was inaugurated by Ranee, in 1663. 
 The Order was most at home in France, but was driven out and spread 
 into different countries. It has come into possession of much of its 
 ancient property, and there are monasteries now, not only in many parts 
 of Europe, but also here in America. 
 
 The Trappist Monks. 
 
 Knowing of such a monastery near by, our curiosity was aroused. 
 Without much difficulty we secured admission, and were shown 
 
 w^miiimfmu 
 
 A MEETING OP THE TRAPPIST MONKS AT OEHLENBERG, ALSACE. GERMANY. 
 
 the hard straw beds upon which the monks sleep, and the graves at 
 which each one digs a short time every evening, and we learned from 
 the abbot the following routine of every day. They rise at two in the 
 morning, and spend the day alternately in service in chapel, private 
 prayer and manual labor ; they change their clothes but once a week, 
 to wash them ; meat, eggs, fish and wine are all forbidden, and per- 
 petual silence is enjoined, except in cases of extreme necessity. During 
 their meals one of them reads from the lives of saints. The greeting in 
 the morning, which is the only conversation allowed, is the memento mori 
 (Remember thou must die)- Our picture represents them assembled to 
 
116 A TRAMP THROUGH GERMANY. 
 
 accuse each other of apparent faults, without the one accused having 
 the right to defend himself in case of innocence, and this in order to 
 beget the spirit of humility. They are prepared to entertain strangers, 
 but treat them much better than themselves. Certainly the life of the 
 Trappist monks has nothing enticing about it. 
 
 Gay Festivities. 
 
 On the other hand, we are easily led captive by the picturesque life 
 we see here all about us. " The daily round, the common task," is 
 sweetened by innocent mirth or song, and all that makes home bright 
 and blessed. See under yonder walnut or linden tree a group of women, 
 covered with dust, stripping the flax, singing in chorus the ancient 
 songs transmitted from one generation to another. Whether you come in 
 winter or summer, fall or spring; whether you see at Christmas the 
 children grouped, awaiting St. Nicholas, our Santa Claus, and starting 
 in awe of Lucifer, who always accompanies him to carry them off should 
 they fail to stand the test St. Nicholas gives ; whether you attend the 
 joyous festival of the patron saint, everywhere, and at all times, you will 
 rind scenes that will inspire the pen of the writer, and pencil of the 
 artist. And so at vintage time, when the grapes are all gathered, the 
 laborers return wreathed with garlands, making merry as they come. 
 
 Possibly it is Stork's Day. The stork is, in Germany, the best-loved 
 bird; he is the herald of spring; he is the luck-bringing bird of peace 
 and plenty. He is supposed to bring down the little babies from heaven, 
 when they are born. Accordingly, on this day you will see the people 
 turning out singing and rejoicing, going from house to house demanding 
 gifts for merrymaking. And so harvest has its own usages. The regular 
 practice formerly was, to assemble all men, women, and lads of the 
 parish and march in gay procession round the fields, with the priest at 
 the head, to call down the divine blessing upon the work to be begun. 
 The men made the round on horseback, those married clad in blue coats, 
 the unmarried in red shirts, the boys following on foot in white blouses. 
 Cross and banners were borne in front. Like most ceremonies of the 
 kind, it ended with a dance, which in this instance was the Gullertanz or 
 cock-dance, because the prizes originally consisted of cocks, which were 
 afterwards consumed amidst merrymaking. A sort of gallows was built 
 
118 A TRAMP THROUGH GERMANY. 
 
 up, from which was suspended a wooden triangle, supporting a glass 
 tilled with wine. The point of the dance was, for the lady to fall down 
 suddenly under the gallows and raise her cavalier, standing upon her 
 hands, high enough for him to reach the glass. If he managed to take 
 it down, and empty it, he won the prize. But what overflowing gayety 
 reigns at a wedding of rich peasants! Eight days are given up to rejoic- 
 ings, when fowls, calves, oxen, and casks of wine are sacrificed to satisfy 
 their robust stomachs; these are monster banquets, worthy of heroic 
 times. At the commencement of the week, the bridesmen, decked with 
 great ribboned bouquets of rosemary, mount the best horses of their 
 stables, and go from village to village to invite the guests, and at each 
 house awaits them the customary repast and the pitcher of white wine. 
 If the young man marries a girl from another district, he goes thither 
 with wagons and carriages accompanied by his comrades on horseback. 
 Upon the vehicles are placed the furniture, the linen, and provisions, 
 while the principal carriage, upon which are seated the bride, the brides- 
 maids and their friends, is always decorated with wreaths and garlands, 
 and a gigantic distaff with most beautiful hemp and flax, adorned with 
 ribbons and flowers, forms the mast of this ship of verdure on wheels; 
 a beautifully turned and inlaid spinning-wheel is also never allowed to 
 be wanting. When the procession arrives at the bridegroom's house, 
 this distaff is fixed in a window of the first story, like a flag. Already 
 at the outskirts of the village, young men on horseback await the 
 procession and greet it with hurrahs and salutes from rifles and 
 pistols; the cavalcade then makes its solemn entry amidst general 
 shouts of applause, advancing to the great farm yard, and then the 
 troop, still amid the sound of salutes, passes on foot to the church. 
 After the ceremony is over, the festivities and dancing begin, lasting 
 two or three days and nights, during which time the whole village is in 
 a flutter. 
 
 A German country scene strikes an American as altogether novel, for 
 the farmers there do not live upon their farms, but in the villages, and 
 go every morning to their work. The farms are not extensive ; much of 
 the land is held in common for Grazing, and the village emplovs one 
 person to herd its sheep, one to drive out its pigs, and even the geese 
 are herded. The houses differ in different districts, and rival each other 
 
).»Xli>.^^..|..,^.::;p'::./ : 
 
 : ^^MmMMW:i^m 
 
120 A TRAMP THROUGH GERMANY. 
 
 in picturesqueness. Connected with the house are the barn and stables 
 for horses and cows. 
 
 In these villages of the Rhine land, whether situated in the open 
 plain on either side of the Rhine, or nestled in some romantic valley of 
 Yosges Mountains or Black Forest, are to be seen on all sides evidences 
 of piety and devotion to the church, mingled, no doubt, with consider- 
 able superstition. Mankind is ruled by superstition far more than we 
 suspect, and while at times it may assume phases bordering on fanati- 
 cism and become dangerous to the individual and the State, yet here 
 among these simple-hearted people we are least offended by it. There 
 is a touch of pathos in many of their superstitions, embodying as they 
 do traces of beliefs and customs of pagan times ; the dim twilight of 
 the past, when the Rhine valley and enclosing mountains were covered 
 with primeval forests, through which the bison ranged, and when the 
 ancient German heard in the rustling of the sacred oak the voice of his 
 god Wodan. Such traces of pagan life, even of the time before the Ger- 
 man had forced the Celtic races westward, are still to be seen in the 
 rites attending the celebration of the coming and going of the 
 seasons. Bonifacius, the Irish monk, among the first to preach Chris- 
 tianity in these parts, with unsparing hand cut down the sacred oak at 
 Geismar. With firm hand the church sought to banish from the minds 
 of the people their superstitious beliefs, and yet she recognized and 
 prized highly the rich imagination of these tribes, and as far as possible 
 supplanted pagan rites with Christian symbols, and replaced what was 
 before a faith of partial fatalism, illimiined by but an occasional ray of 
 hope, by a faith radiant with the light of hope and love. 
 
 On Sunday morning after service you can often see bands of young 
 men and women going to their respective hamlets, chanting the choral 
 as they go, carrying with them to their homes the spirit of devotion in- 
 spired during the service. By the wayside are shrines and crucifixes, 
 private altars in each peasant's dwelling, and stoops for holy water at 
 every cottage door. The quaint little wayside chapels, some of them 
 venerable with age, others picturesque with their tiny spires and curious 
 carving, add greatly to the beauty of the landscape. Even a rigid 
 Protestant must be pleased at the sight of the peasants stopping to offer 
 a brief prayer, in complete privacy, at these humble shrines. 
 
A GKOUP OF FARO ISLANDERS. 
 
IX. 
 
 DENMARK. 
 
 IjjgENMABK, tliough infiltrated in the south, in the 
 capital and in the ranks of the aristocracy, by Germans 
 and Swedes, is inhabited by a very homogeneous race. 
 It consists of the Peninsula of Jutland, and the Danish 
 Islands, of which Zealand (Sj eland), on which the 
 capital, Copenhagen, is situated, is the largest. Al- 
 together, modern Denmark comprises only 14,750 
 square miles, or about half the area of Scotland. 
 Both islands and mainland, the Isle of Bornholm excepted, 
 are exceedingly flat, the Hill of Himmelsbjerg, or Heaven's 
 Mountain (565 feet), in Jutland, being the loftiest eminence 
 in all the country. Jutland, especially on the west coast, is sandy, but 
 toward the interior it rises somewhat, and spreads out into heaths, varied 
 with patches of agricultural land. The islands are more fruitful, and 
 support a population of peasant proprietors, who rear considerable crops 
 of wheat, barley, oats, flax, rye, buckwheat, etc. ; though, as a rule, the 
 hedgeless country, with the peasants' "gaard," the high-towered church 
 on the loftiest ground, and the occasional " herregaard," or country gentle- 
 man's residence, is monotonously uninteresting, except for the frugal 
 habits, amiable characteristics, and general prosperity of the people. 
 
 Beech woods dot the surface, especially in Zealand, where the beauti- 
 ful forest of the Dyrehave, and its continuation along the shore of the 
 Sound near Copenhagen, supply a charm to the country which it would 
 not otherwise possess. There are also some forests in Southern Jutland, 
 and in Laaland, where there is a good deal of oak; and in Falster, an island 
 where apple-orchards add variety to the view. There are no mines in 
 the country, and the fuel burnt must, as in Holland, either be imported 
 or be supplied by the nearly exhausted peat-bogs and the spare forests, 
 
 (122) 
 

124 DENMARK. 
 
 Agriculture is the main resource of the people. Education is universal 
 and compulsory, and culture widespread, and of a type as high as in 
 Germany. Indeed, the polished manners of the Danes contrast favora- 
 bly with those of the ruder and more boisterous Germans. Morality is, 
 However, as high as education, and the impression which they and their 
 country leave in the mind of the stranger is, on the whole, exceedingly 
 favorable. Their Government is a limited monarchy, the Legislature 
 consisting of two Houses, while the power of the King and his ministers 
 .s controlled by various checks. By the last census the population of 
 the country numbers 1,969,454 people. The Kingdom can raise an 
 z:my of 31,000 men, and owns a navy of thirty-three warships. The 
 ^inish merchant fleet is large, and all along the coast there are fishing 
 villages of hardy seafaring people, who still preserve many of the traits 
 of the famous " vikinger," who contributed to Great Britain some of its 
 best racial elements. 
 
 In addition to Greenland and two of the West India Islands, Den- 
 mark owns the mountainous Faroerne, some islands lying between Shet- 
 land and Iceland. Seventeen of these are inhabited by a population of 
 fishermen, graziers, fowlers, and traders, numbering some twelve thou- 
 sand, and to the Danish monarchy, though under a constitution of its 
 own, is also attached the famous island of Iceland, which contains fort\ 
 thousand square miles of lava and glaciers interspersed with small farms 
 and grazing grounds, and intersected by endless inlets of the sea. It is 
 thus larger than Ireland, though containing only seventy-two thousand 
 people, many of whom are emigrating, as only a small part of the 
 country is inhabitable. The people are remarkably well educated, and 
 distinguished for their courage, honesty, and patriotism. They are the 
 old Norse stock, whose language they speak, and are all Protestants, of 
 the Lutheran sect. Fishing, farming a little, pasturing sheep and 
 ponies, and the knitting of stockings and gloves, are the chief industries 
 of the island. Of late years, the famous volcano, Hekla, the Geysers, 
 and the other scenic features of the island have attracted many summer 
 visitors to it, greatly to the enrichment of the Icelanders, though possibly 
 not so much to their moral welfare as might be desired. Reykjavik, 
 which is a town of some two thousand inhabitants, is the only place 
 that can be considered of any importance on this "island grand." 
 
X. 
 
 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT 
 
 SUN. 
 
 HE west coast of Scotland is something like that of 
 Norway in a general way. except that it is infinitely 
 smaller and less grand ; but that constant bright blue 
 sky, those deeply-indented, sinuous, gleaming firths, 
 those headstrong rivers and headlong falls, those steep 
 hillsides, those long ridges of "fjelde" (mountains), 
 those peaks and needles rising sharp above them, 
 those hanging glaciers and wreaths of everlasting 
 snow, those towering, endless pine forests, relieved by 
 slender stems of silver birch, those green spots in the midst of the 
 forest, those winding dales and upland lakes; those various shapes of 
 birds and beasts, the mighty, crashing elk, the fleet reindeer, the fear- 
 less bear, the nimble lynx, the sly wolf; those eagles and swans and 
 sea birds, those many tones and notes of Nature's voice making distant 
 music through the twilight summer night, those brilliant, flashing 
 Northern Lights when days grow short, those dazzling, blinding storms 
 of autumn snow, that cheerful winter frost and cold, that joy of sledging 
 over the smooth ice, when the sharp-shod horse careers at full speed 
 with the light sledge, or rushes down the steep pitches, over the crack- 
 ling snow, through the green spruce wood — all these form a Nature of 
 their own. These particular features belong in their combination to no 
 other land. And, in the midst of all this natural scenery we find an 
 honest, manly race, not the race of the towns and cities, but of the dales 
 and "fjeld," free and unsubdued, holding its own in a country where 
 there are neither lords nor ladies, but simple men and women. 
 
 (125) 
 
THE CHURCH OF BORGUND, NORWAY. 
 
THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 
 
 127 
 
 Grand Natural Scenery. 
 
 The country for about three hundred miles south of the North Cape 
 lies within the Arctic Circle, affording the visitor not only magnificent 
 and unique scenery, but also the opportunity of seeing the "midnight 
 sun," or, to speak more correctly, of seeing the sun go round the horizon 
 without sinking beneath it. At the latitude of the Arctic Circle this 
 phenomenon can be seen for one day only; at the North Cape for nearly 
 three months, from May 11th until August 1st. 
 
 The geology of Norway is too 
 intricate a subject to be dealt , \~ "^--^ 
 
 with here, but it is needful to ' 
 
 know something of the configura 
 tion of the country in order to 
 understand the peculiarities of 
 Norwegian scenery. The northern 
 and western sections form a huge 
 mountainous plateau, made up 
 for the most part of gneiss rock, 
 sloping gradually toward the 
 southeast and abruptly toward 
 the west. The western side has 
 been cut into deep clefts and 
 valleys. These great chasms in 
 the plateau — due, in the opinion 
 of some, to the glacier action — 
 form the far-famed valleys and 
 "fjords." 
 
 The rivers are for the most 
 part streams which rush more or less rapidly down from the mountains 
 and through the valleys into fjords and lakes. The largest river in 
 Norway is the Glommen, which flows in a southerly direction, and at 
 last empties into the Skagerrack, at Frederickstad, forming, nine miles 
 above its mouth, the fine falls of Sarpsborg. 
 
 The fjords occur at every part of the enormous coastline, from the 
 Yaranger Fjord in the extreme northeast to the Christiania Fjord in the 
 extreme south. They are of all sizes, and possess many individual 
 
 5-^ 
 
 SCANDINAVIAN PEASANT GIRL. 
 
THE SKJiEGGEDALSFOS, NORWAY. 
 
THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 129 
 
 peculiarities. Sometimes they are sombre and wild, sometimes frown- 
 ing and forbidding, and sometimes lovely beyond the power of words to 
 describe, but never do they fail to charm those who sail on their placid 
 waters. Among the chief are the Porsanger, a little to the east of the 
 North Cape, eighty miles long ; the Sogne and Hardanger, on the west 
 coast, running inland for one hundred, and eighty miles, respectively ; 
 and the beautiful Christiania Fjord, forming, when traversed on a fine 
 summer's day, an enchanting approach to Norway's capital. 
 
 Cascades and Waterfalls. 
 
 But not only is Norway the land of mountain and fjord ; it is equally 
 the land of cascades and waterfalls. These range from tiny, silvery 
 streams, adding loveliness to many a hillside, up to mighty masses of 
 water that rush with thunderous uproar over cliffs five hundred to one 
 thousand feet high. The cataract and the "fos," as the waterfall is 
 called in Norway, are almost as common there as the hedgerow is in 
 England. One of the grandest falls in Norway is the Skjaeggedalsfos, or, 
 as it is often called, the Kinged alsfos, by many good judges considered 
 the finest fall in Europe. It is not easy of access, and takes a full day, 
 and necessarily the enjoyment of the traveler is greatly marred if it be 
 either cloudy or wet. It has the reputation of being a dangerous trip, 
 but the Norwegian Tourist Club has done so much to improve the path 
 that, with a good guide, ladies may venture without any hesitation. 
 The fall is situated in an amphitheatre of rock at the extreme end of the 
 lake. The bare, black cliffs that encircle it present a most forbidding 
 aspect, and one feels as though the sight of a dragon or giant bearing 
 off a lovely maiden, or of an enchanted castle, would be in perfect har- 
 mony with the weird surroundings. 
 
 An enormous mass of water comes over the cliff in a perpendicular 
 fall of about five hundred and thirty feet, and beyond it are smaller falls. 
 The forms the water assumes in its descent are very beautiful. It strikes 
 the foot of the cliff with a thunderous roar, dashes madly along for a 
 hundred yards or so, and then in a furious cataract, penned in between 
 mighty rocks, rushes down into the lake. The height of the fall and the 
 enormous mass of water that rushes down the face of the cliff are very 
 impressive. But the most striking evidence of power is given by the 
 
 9 
 
130 
 
 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 
 
 rushing tempest that the fall creates. It is possible to reach a rocky 
 projection near the base of the falling water, but it is difficult to remain 
 there with comfort. A violent wind sweeps down, bringing with it 
 drenching^ clouds of spray ; the thunderous roar drowns all effort at con- 
 versation ; the gloomy surroundings awe and subdue the mind ; and the 
 curious sensation that it is dangerous to stand near the edge, and yet, 
 drawn by an indefinable fascination, that it is needful to do so, is 
 
 •2t**1i>^'\^ — 
 
 ^^^^S^^S^. .c"/^? 
 
 t"/< 
 
 PEASANT GIRLS, NORWAY. 
 
 present in its full power. Altogether a day at the Shjseggedalsfos is a 
 never-to-be-forgotten experience even in Norway. 
 
 Scenes of Beauty and Grandeur. 
 
 The steamboat journey from Aalesund to Bergen is pleasant and unac- 
 companied with fatigue. There are, it is true, many scenes of beauty 
 and even grandeur on the route, but the most varied and imposing 
 scenery lies along the overland route. Those who wish to travel in this 
 

132 
 
 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 
 
 way must be prepared to rough it a little, and to spend at least three or 
 four days more en route, but those who can make the effort have their 
 
 reward. For most travelers the chief interest attaching to Aalesund is 
 the fact that from it the steamer starts for the Geirangerfjord, which, 
 
THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 
 
 131 
 
 •WOMAN FROM DALARNE, SWEDEN. 
 
 although possibly the most popular fjord in Norway with tourists, is, in 
 
 the opinion of Norwegians, surpassed by the Jorundfjord and Noranger- 
 
 fjord. Saebo, on the Jorundfjord, is 
 
 the best starting-point from which 
 
 to explore the region. It is also one 
 
 of the loveliest spots in the whole of 
 
 Norway. The latter fjord is about 
 
 twenty-five miles in length, and ex- 
 hibits the most superb examples of cliffs 
 
 rising sheer from the water, and also 
 
 of wild, steep mountain slopes. The M^sM^^S^^&Mlk 
 
 character of the great plateau in this 
 
 part differs from that found farther 
 
 south. There are many more sharp- 
 pointed peaks, and these are then 
 
 covered with snow. On passing Saebo, 
 
 the fjord becomes exceedingly wild and 
 
 grand, narrowing to a huge chasm, with 
 enormous cliffs rising perpendicularly 
 five thousand feet from the water. 
 
 Over against the Saebo is the Nor- 
 angerfjord. While granting it only one 
 arm, Nature seems to have resolved that 
 this should be a very magnificent ex- 
 ample of the class. On the southern 
 shore, the Stolbjerg and the Jagta tower, 
 respectively four thousand four hundred 
 and ninety, and five thousand two 
 hundred and forty feet ; mountains only 
 a little lower fringe the northern bank, 
 and at the head is a large glacier. On 
 leaving the fjord, the Norangsdal is 
 entered, and no lover of the wild and lonely 
 could desire a happier hunting-ground. 
 The coast southward from Aalesund possesses the same general 
 
 features ; islands in the foreground, mountains overtopped by glaciers in 
 
 ;;:;::■:;. iltj^li&ii; 
 
 GIRLS PROM WINGAKER, SWEDEN. 
 
134 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 
 
 the distance. A few miles north of the entrance to the Northfjord the 
 little land-locked harbor of Molde is reached. The entrance is through 
 one narrow and winding strait, and the exit by another ; and when the 
 steamer is lying waiting for the boat from the shore, she seems to be 
 resting on the still waters of a lovely lake. On all sides are boldly out- 
 lined mountains. The houses in the little town seem more neat and 
 picturesque than they would probably appear on a closer acquaintance. 
 As soon as the vessel heaves to there is a bustle and stir at the little 
 landing-stage. The water is too shallow for the steamer to come in 
 shore, and speedily a. boat puts out from the land. It is wide, flat- 
 bottomed, and roomy. In the centre the luggage and freight are piled 
 up, not unfrequently a cow or two find a place ; at either end, and upon 
 the boxes and bales, the intending passengers sit or stand. The 
 stranger will often witness, in watching over the side the unloading and 
 loading of these shore-boats, many interesting illustrations of Norwegian 
 peasant-life, and many exhibitions, sometimes amusing, sometimes 
 pathetic, of our common humanity. The studies from life during a 
 coasting voyage in Norway are often quite as novel and invigorating 
 to the jaded tourist as the studies of nature. 
 
 A Mighty Cliff. 
 
 The coast between Trondhjem and Bergen is sometimes described as 
 tame and monotonous, and certainly the enjoyment it affords will depend 
 to a large extent upon the temperament and likings of the traveler. 
 But with regard to one part of the route, a little south of Molde, there 
 can be no question. It is not too much to say that the voyage is well 
 worth taking, simply to sail through the Skate Sund, and around the 
 mighty cliff Hornelen. Soon after leaving Molde the steamer crosses the 
 mouth of the Nord fjord. This, like the entrance to the Sognefjord 
 farther south, gives no hint of the superb scenery afforded along its 
 inner reaches. The mountains are low, rocky and bare, and look as if 
 they had been ground down by some mighty glacier action in a remote 
 age. Suddenly the steamer enters a narrow and beautiful " Sund," and 
 gradually draws near to the enormous, rocky mass. At one point the 
 cliff, towering up for 3000 feet, seems to quite overhang the steamer, and, 
 on the whistle being blown, a whole series of splendid echoes is started, 
 
THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 
 
 135 
 
 the sound being tossed in succession from one part of the over- 
 hanging cliff to another. Looking upward from the deck to the frown- 
 ing cliffs so high above it, an impression of man's insignificance is 
 obtained. As the steamer begins to pass into distance, the cliff 
 
 VIEW FROM FALEIDB, NORWAY. 
 
 appears to possess the form of a gigantic fortress, with huge but- 
 tresses and a superb tower. Looking upon it, one feels how appro- 
 priate it is that it should have become associated with Norway's 
 typical hero, the brave and splendid Olaf Tryggveson. 
 The Scandinavians, as a rule, are devout, simple-minded and religious. 
 
136 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN 
 
 They have a reverence for the printed page, and are fond of reading. 
 Keligious literature finds a ready and a wide circulation. The Bible is 
 read at home, and many a Sunday hour is passed by the family in read- 
 ing the Word of God. In Norway, the sacred part of Sunday comes to 
 an end at six p. m. Hence, the custom has long obtained of devoting 
 the closing hours of Sunday to dancing and to recreation. The writer, 
 however, saw nothing in Norway corresponding to a Sunday in Germany 
 or France. 
 
 A Simple-minded and Religious People. 
 
 Great stress is laid upon confirmation in the Scandinavian Church. The 
 clergy are not allowed to marry unconfirmed persons, and the rite is 
 generally considered a necessary preliminary to securing a situation. 
 The young people are trained carefully in Biblical history and in the 
 Lutheran doctrine, and on the appointed day the pastor lays his hands 
 upon them. The examination, prior to the rite, usually takes place in 
 the church, in the presence of the friends of the candidates. 
 
 Human nature is much the same in Scandinavia as in other parts of the 
 world, and there, as elsewhere, love, courtship, marriage, and the habits 
 and customs connected with them play a very prominent part. Many 
 of the popular tales bear upon this side of human life, some of them full 
 of humor and sound common sense. Weddings in Scandinavia as else- 
 where, attract a large share of attention, and present many novel and 
 curious phenomena. The old customs remain in full force only in the 
 country districts, and even there thej* are beginning to pass away. The 
 betrothal, which takes place months, or even years, before the marriage, 
 is a somewhat formal ceremony; it generally takes place on a church 
 festival, when the couple go before the clergyman, who asks them whether, 
 in the presence of God and the witnesses standing by, they desire to be 
 betrothed to each other. The affirmative answer being given, the couple 
 exchange rings of plain gold, which are worn upon the ring finger of the 
 left hand. This is followed by the giving and receiving of presents- 
 The man gives a hymn book or jewelry and clothes, the woman, articles 
 of wearing apparel that the betrothed must wear on the wedding-day. 
 
 The wedding is very often delayed for a long time after the betrothal, 
 but when it comes is naturally an event of very great interest, although 
 some of the ancient festivities are nowadays more honored in the breach 
 
THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 
 
 137 
 
 than in the observance. It frequently falls on a Sunday. The dressing 
 of the bride, as in England, is one of the chief parts of the ceremonial. 
 On the eventful morning she is escorted in procession by the bridegroom 
 and his friends to the church, sometimes on foot and sometimes on 
 horseback. On the return to the house of the bride's father, there is a 
 great feast. The great feature in the dress of the bride is the crown, 
 This is usually made of silver, but is gilded, and hence has a rather 
 fanciful appearance. In certain districts, these crowns are kept and 
 loaned as occasion requires. 
 
 A Glance at Sweden. 
 
 One of the most interesting parts of the Scandinavian peninsula, and 
 that most seldom visited by travelers, is Lapland. The approach to 
 this far northern country is through 
 marshy plains. It was the condition of 
 these bogs which caused the unpleasant 
 predicament of Carl Linnaeus in the 
 course of the journeys on which he was 
 sent by the Swedish Academy in 1708. 
 "We had next to pass a marshy tract," 
 says he, "where at every step we w T ere 
 knee deep in water; and if we thought 
 to find sure footing on some grassy tuft, 
 it proved treacherous, and only sunk us 
 lower. Our half-boots were filled with 
 the coldest water, as the frost in some places still remained in the ground. 
 I wondered how I escaped with life, though certainly not without exces- 
 sive fatigue and loss of strength." A guide who accompanied the young 
 naturalist was dispatched for assistance, and on his return was "accom- 
 panied by a person whose appearance was such that I did not know 
 whether I beheld a man or woman. Her stature was diminutive ; her 
 face of the darkest brown, from the effects of smoke ; her eyes dark and 
 sparkling ; her eyebrows black ; her pitchy-colored hair hung loose about 
 her head, and on it she wore a flat, red cap ; she had a gray petticoat. 
 She addressed me, with mingled pity and reserve, in the following w T ords: 
 ' thou poor man ! what hard destiny can have brought thee hither, to 
 
 COAT OF ARMS OF SWEDEN. 
 
LAPLANDERS, SWEDEN, 
 
THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 
 
 139 
 
 THE CHURCH OF HAGBY, SWEDEN. 
 
 a place never visited by any one before ? This is the first time I ever 
 
 beheld a stranger. Thou miserable creature! how didst thou come, and 
 
 whither wilt thou go ?' " In a word, the Swedish student felt, as did 
 
 another, much later traveler 
 
 to Lapland, in saying: "So 
 
 at last we ended our toilsome 
 
 journey into Lapland — the 
 
 most curious that ever was 
 
 — one that I would not have 
 
 failed to make for a great 
 
 deal of money, and that I 
 
 would not re-comrnence for 
 
 much more." 
 
 The Two Chief Cities of Sweden. 
 
 The two chief cities in 
 Sweden are the Capital, Stock- 
 holm, and the port of Gothen- 
 burg. They have been brought into direct water communication by 
 
 the means of the Gota Canal, 
 which provides a water-way 
 through the heart of the 
 country, and removes the 
 necessitv for the longer sea- 
 passage round the south of 
 Sweden. The writer's first 
 view of Sweden was gained 
 from the deck of a Hull 
 steamer as she was slowly 
 passing up the Gota River, 
 the stream on which Gothen- 
 burg stands, at 5.30 on a 
 June morning. The river 
 winds along between rocky banks, and at every turn there are traces of 
 the great timber trade of the country. The timber yards, the trim villas 
 and neat cottages, the numerous craft, either moored or passing down 
 
 THE CHURCH OF VOXTORP, SWEDEN. 
 
IN A OOUNTKY" CHU11CH, SWEDEN. 
 
THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 
 
 141 
 
 the stream, the spires and buildings of the city as they gradually came 
 into view, all helped to make a novel and pleasant picture. 
 
 On landing, the Dutch character of the town at once strikes the 
 stranger. Wide canals run through the principal streets in the neigh- 
 borhood of the harbor, but the buildings resemble those of a French 
 town. The town was founded by Gustavus Adolphus, in 1619, and 
 many Dutch settlers were among its first inhabitants. The great com- 
 mercial prosperity of Gothenburg dates from the time of Napoleon I, 
 when, owing to the Continental blockade, it became the chief port for 
 the trade of England with North Europe. The Gota Canal also, by 
 bringing the town into easy communication with the interior of the 
 country, has done much to make it prosperous. Gothenburg possesses 
 many fine streets and boulevards, and covers a large extent of ground. 
 There are fine parks and public spaces, and the suburbs are occupied 
 by large, substantial-looking houses, belonging to wealthy merchants. 
 
 CHARLES XII., KING OF SWEDEN (1697-1718), 
 "THE LION OF THE NORTH." 
 
GO 
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 ta 
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XI. 
 
 GLIMPSES OF RUSSIA. 
 
 F, as is said by a wise and witty Frenchman, every country 
 should be visited in the season most characteristic 
 of it, certainly, also, one should try to see not only 
 this single season, but that which most strongly con- 
 trasts with it. So, too, the traveler should see not 
 only the capital city, with its great buildings, hand- 
 some streets, treasures of art, with its prosperous, 
 thriving people, but he should contrast with it the 
 small peasant village, remote from centres of wealth 
 and culture, where the conditions of life are hard, 
 the people poor, with poverty doubly wretched in its hopelessness. 
 
 Wide Contrasts. 
 
 JNo country presents wider contrasts of this description than does 
 Russia. Her laboring people, lately freed from serfdom, still find them- 
 selves in a condition little better. They have looked forward with hope, 
 only to find that the distrust of their rulers and the indiscretions of their 
 own leaders have too frequently conspired to disappoint them, and Russia 
 remains a country in which the poor have few opportunities, where their 
 burdens of taxation are enormous, where they have no voice in the 
 government — in short, a despotism. 
 
 Our illustration represents a fishing village in northwestern Russia, 
 where to the difficulties of life elsewhere among Russian peasants, is 
 added that of a particularly arduous calling. Kature has not been kind 
 to the Russian, but the burdens she imposes are light compared with 
 those heaped by his rulers upon his devoted shoulders. The whole male 
 population is subject to military service ; the taxes are heavy, arbitrary, 
 
 ru3) 
 
GLIMPSES OF RUSSIA. 145 
 
 and collected under a system which admits of unlimited fraud and extor- 
 tion ; and to crown all, the subject is liable to arrest and indefinite 
 imprisonment without trial, and even to banishment, by " administrative 
 process." The system of police makes the most private matters subject 
 to investigation at the hands of an official who is probably a rogue, and 
 who has no idea that he owes any duty whatever to the people whose 
 government he serves. A careless word, some entirely innocent act, 
 may be assumed by the authorities to be suspicious, in which case the 
 unhappy citizen may by punished by imprisonment, by flogging, or by 
 banishment. Unfortunate indeed will he be, if he has given any cause 
 for suspicion that he has any desire, at a more or less distant time, to 
 see a change in the form of government. This is the unpardonable sin, 
 and may well be expected to send the perpetrator to Siberia. So the 
 inhabitants of our Russian village are not only anxious as to their 
 livelihood, but careful of their speech and actions, with a care which is 
 the result of fear, a fear that has its source in bitter experience. 
 
 St. Petersburg, the Russian Capital. 
 
 But turning from such a village to the capital founded by Peter the 
 Great, what a contrast there is ! Peter had lived in Amsterdam, and in 
 order that his new city should resemble that Dutch metropolis, he built 
 it upon piles in the marshes of the Baltic. Wonderful city that it is, 
 perhaps we shall see it best, and come most nearly to know its varied 
 life, by a visit to the Nevski Prospekt, Neva Perspective. This great 
 triumphal road extends from the monastery of St. Alexander Nevski, a 
 distance of three miles. This is the universal drive, and one may spend 
 hours in studying the various equipages and their occupants. One, two 
 or three horses may be driven, sometimes a trotting horse working be- 
 tween two galloping companions. On the pavement are crowds of 
 people, gazing at the sleighs, or hurrying forward on business or to fulfill 
 some social engagement. Joining the throng we shall pass the Annitch- 
 koff Palace, the residence of the emperor at such times as his presence 
 at the Winter Palace is not required by the ceremonies of court life. 
 Soon we shall come to the Imperial Library, founded by the Empress 
 Catherine, and the Church of Notre Dame de Kazan, which has a 
 colonnade similar to that of St. Peter's at Rome, and in size and 
 
 
 10 
 
146 
 
 GLIMPSES OF RUSSIA. 
 
 decoration is second only to the Cathedral of St. Izak, among the 
 churches of St. Petersburg. 
 
 Religion and Education. 
 
 Toleration of all religions which do not violate public morality or 
 good order exists in Russia, and not to profess the orthodox Greek 
 
 faith, the national religion, does 
 of any civil right. The law does 
 already belong to the estab- 
 The emperor is head of the 
 he directs by means of a synod 
 For the education of the 
 mies, 50 seminaries, and 201 
 persons are trained. The 
 the ecclesiastical depart- 
 in aintained by the gov- 
 ment of public instruc- 
 sided over by a minis- 
 of the schools are 
 departments. The 
 these establishments 
 of the Imperial 
 academies for the 
 neers and the 
 devoted to 
 branches 
 tary science, 
 education for 
 church is super- 
 the clergy. Many 
 
 portant institutions in Russia, as the Acad- 
 
 emy of Sciences and the Pulkova Observatory, flourish in or near St. 
 Petersburg. The Imperial Library at St. Petersburg, with upward of 
 1,000,000 volumes, is one of the finest in the world. The press of 
 Russia, not yet much developed, is subject to special censorship. The 
 foundling hospitals of St. Petersburg and Moscow receive annually 
 
 THE GREATEST BELL IN THE 
 WORLD, MOSCOW, RUSSIA. 
 
 not disqualify for the enjoyment 
 
 not, however, allow those who 
 
 lished faith to secede from it. 
 
 church, the affairs of which 
 
 composed of the chief prelates. 
 
 clergy there are four acade- 
 
 schools, in which 54,000 
 
 churches, convents, and 
 
 ments in general are 
 
 eminent. The depart- 
 
 tion in Russia is pre- 
 
 try, although many 
 
 directed by other 
 
 greater number of 
 
 are supported out 
 
 Treasurv. Three 
 
 *j 
 
 staff, the engi- 
 
 artillery are 
 
 the higher 
 
 of mili- 
 
 Theological 
 
 the orthodox 
 
 intended by 
 
 the most im- 
 
GLIMPSES OF RUSSIA. 
 
 147 
 
 about 15,000 abandoned infants and orphans. But let us return to our 
 tramp through the city. 
 
 At the end of the Neva Perspective are the Admiralty buildings, and 
 we must turn out into the Great Marine Street, which is the fashionable 
 walk of the city. On this street we shall find the Cathedral of St. Izak, 
 and passing around this magnificent church we come to the Neva, 
 hemmed in for more than three miles by a dyke of red granite. Thick 
 ice covers the stream all winter long, forming a bridge for all kinds of 
 vehicles, while in the centre a race course is marked out, and is con- 
 tinually surrounded by throngs of sportsmen. 
 
 THE WINTER PALACE, ST. PETERSBURG. 
 
 Along the quay are the palaces of the Grand Dukes and other noble 
 families. This is the centre of aristocratic life ; the fashionable world 
 crowding into this quarter so as to surround as closely as possible the 
 great Winter Palace. This is an immense building in the rococo style. 
 It was erected in the reign of Catherine, and has been added to by the 
 successive monarchs until it might be likened to some great caravansary, 
 and bears a striking resemblance to the palace of the Sultan at Constan- 
 tinople. It is the very source and spring of all social movements in 
 St. Petersburg. All the leading places of amusement can almost be said 
 
148 
 
 GLIMPSES OF RUSSIA. 
 
 to be annexed to the palace ; the great gallery of paintings and other 
 objects of art to which the public are freely admitted, is, in reality, 
 merely the study of the Emperor. 
 
 The palace is open to visitors on various occasions ; on New Tear's 
 day, Easter, and other holidays, at the baptism or marriage of any royal 
 personage, and when a foreign prince is received. 
 
 An Interesting Ceremony. 
 
 On January 6th, an interesting ceremony, peculiarly Eussian, is per- 
 
 THE NICHOLAS BRIDGE, ST. PETERSBURG. 
 
 formed, in the blessing of the waters of the Neva. In a tent on the ice, 
 hymns are sung by the choir of the Imperial chapel, the cross is plunged 
 through a hole in the ice, and the greatest prelate of the church, the 
 Metropolitan of St. Petersburg, pronounces a blessing upon the waters. 
 The visitor to the Eussian capital soon comes to understand that the 
 military spirit rules all the social life. The guards perform their 
 manoeuvres in vast, covered enclosures, which are well heated and 
 where a regiment of men finds ample room for all its evolutions. Here 
 the officers give brilliant entertainments, and the manoeuvres of the 
 guards furnish the people of the capital with an amusement of which 
 
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GLIMPSES OF RUSSIA. 149 
 
 they never tire. The Emperor is nearly always present, and his brilliant 
 suite, with those of the foreign ambassadors, make the spectacle one 
 long to be remembered. It is a curious sight to watch the assembly of 
 company on the occasion of a great court ball. Sledges and carriages, 
 by the hundred, make their way slowly toward the Winter Palace, their 
 occupants so muffled as to resemble great bundles of fur. The empty 
 vehicles wait on the square near by, and their drivers warm themselves 
 at great fires provided for the purpose. Once inside the palace doors, 
 the bundles of fur are transformed into handsome, gaily-dressed gentle- 
 men and ladies, who gather in the great Throne Room to await the 
 coming of royalty. Promptly at nine o'clock the Emperor enters, and 
 the ball is opened. 
 
 But on the approach of summer, St. Petersburg is transformed. The 
 season is late, it is exceedingly short, and it comes, seemily, without an 
 intermediate season to separate it from the winter. At the close of 
 winter, the islands of the Neva becomes masses of verdure, the air is 
 full of mist rising from the water, and at the point where the river joins 
 the Gulf of Finland are the country houses of the nobles and wealthy 
 merchants. The brightness of the foliage, the genial warmth, the out- 
 of-door life, remind one of Italy, and one can hardly believe that this is 
 frozen Russia. 
 
 The Czar and those who form his court spend the summer within an 
 hour's ride, by railway, from the capital, either at Tsarskoe-Selo, or at 
 Peterhof. At the latter place, Peter the Great wished to form a Russian 
 Versailles, and the neighborhood of the sea gave scope to his passion for 
 nautical enterprises, but the castle has been somewhat neglected of 
 late. At Tsarskoe-Selo is a great castle in the midst of larch woods, 
 and by the side of a small lake. Here the great Catherine loved to 
 dwell, and around this royal residence clusters the memory of many 
 of the most eminent Russian names. 
 
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XII. 
 
 IN BRILLIANT VIENNA. 
 
 F the traveler will leave the main line of travel at Offenburg, 
 a few miles east of Strassburg, and ascend on the rail- 
 way one of the most interesting of Black Forest 
 valleys, where his interest is divided between 
 natural scenery and the engineering skill displayed 
 in the construction of the road, he will in a few 
 hours have climbed high mountain sides in many 
 circles and through many tunnels, until at last, on 
 issuing from a long tunnel he finds himself on a 
 high plateau, and presently notices a streamlet, no 
 more than a rill, flowing southeastward. When he 
 leaves it to reach one of the favored spots of travelers — the Rhine Falls 
 at Lekoffhausen — the rill has become a little stream, but were he to 
 follow it, it would lead him across the kingdom of Wurternberg, past 
 the quaint city of Ulm, across Bavaria, and long ere this he would 
 know, as no doubt the reader has guessed, that he was tracing the 
 waters of the Danube, which would carry him on still farther to Lintz 
 and Vienna, past scenery equaling that of the Rhine, past Budapest, 
 the capital of Hungary, through the Iron Gate, along Bulgaria to the 
 confines of Russia and the waters of the Black Sea, a course of nearly 
 1700 miles. This river forms the great main artery of the Austro-Hun- 
 garian territory; and divides it into two not very unequal portions. 
 
 In the German Empire we could not but notice the diverse fragment- 
 ary race elements, but the Austro-Hungarian monarchy we find to be 
 one of the most strangely constituted States of Europe. The Germans 
 are one-fourth of the population, but German is the official language in 
 
 (151) 
 
152 IN BRILLIANT VIENNA. 
 
 the army and navy of the whole country, and in the administration 
 of the western portion. To the north and south are numerous Slavonic 
 races, and to the east, wedged between these, are the Magyars of the Hun- 
 garian plains, and the Roumanians, while beyond, in Transylvania, are 
 German outposts again. In Austria there is, in fact, a perfect babel of 
 tongues, and we soon realize, notwithstanding the great German in- 
 fluence, that we are in a country rather of eastern than of western 
 manners and customs. 
 
 History of Vienna. 
 
 Situated near the Danube, with a population of over a million, the 
 city of Vienna covers with its suburbs an area of thirty-five square 
 miles. An ancient Celtic settlement, taken and fortified in 14 a. d. by 
 the Romans, destroyed by invading hordes of Avars, raised again to 
 importance by Charlemagne, growing and prospering during the time of 
 the Crusades, made the seat of the Hapsburg dynasty, twice besieged 
 by Turks, the last time as late as 1683, occupied by the French in the 
 beginning of this century, in short, having outlived the vicissitudes 
 of twenty centuries, the Vienna of to-day, with its spacious boulevards, 
 with its monumental structures rivaling those of Paris, its splendid art 
 collections, its colossal library and university of over six thousand 
 students, its charming environs, with its Parisian refinement and gaiety, 
 and its variety of national types, this modern Vienna has assumed a 
 thoroughly cosmopolitan character, and become one of the most brilliant 
 capitals of Europe. 
 
 Upon the very day of his arrival the American, after coming through 
 northern Germany, will notice marked contrasts in the character and 
 manners of the people. He will note a remarkable courtesy toward the 
 stranger, and at the same time a sort of Oriental fatalism, which mani- 
 fests itself in a kind of indifference, probably more affected than real. 
 There is one German word which one hears again and again which well 
 characterizes the Viennese— gemuthlich. It expresses good nature, kindly 
 disposition, and especially a condition antagonistic to violent emotions, 
 while its force is best understood when one sees the people in the cafes 
 or restaurants. A glass of beer and a cigar may take the place of 
 every other amusement, and even make conversation superfluous. A 
 Viennese can sit so for hours in silence, but at the arrival of a friend he is 
 
IN BRILLIANT VIENNA. 
 
 153 
 
 all high spirits and full of amiability ; this is gemuthlich. In the libraries, 
 in the working rooms of the museums, there is complete silence. 
 
 In politics as well as in religion the Viennese 
 are quite tolerant. They are converts to modern 
 liberalism and do not favor the domination of 
 the clergy. But this does not prevent their run- 
 ning in crowds to take part in the processions of 
 the Catholic Church, and even Protestants and 
 Jews decorate the fronts of their houses on 
 Church holidays. " Our quarter," they say, "must 
 be the most brilliant." Fond of great spectacles, 
 it makes little difference to them what the oc- 
 casion is. But this taste for display is united 
 with great simplicity of manners and an affection 
 of equality. No one wears a decoration in Vienna. 
 A ribbon displayed reveals at once the stranger, 
 and yet no people anywhere make more of 
 
 INTERIOR OF CENTRAL CAFE, VIENNA. 
 
 titles and honors. The Viennese are also very careful of their toilet. 
 You may often see women going to market early in the morning with 
 flowers in their hair. In the afternoon no one goes out except in calling 
 
154 
 
 IN BRILLIANT VIENNA. 
 
 costume, with irreproachable gloves, and officers are only seen in 
 uniform. While the emperor and archdukes never appear in public 
 
 except in military costume, yet they are not 
 difficult of approach. The archdukes go afoot on 
 the boulevards or in the public gardens, and chat 
 familiarly with persons who have been intro- 
 duced ; and the emperor drives out in a small 
 black carriage, without armed escort, and attracts 
 little attention. But when occasion requires it, 
 as at the arrival of a foreign prince, at a royal 
 wedding, or at some church ceremony, then the 
 Court can make an extraordinary display. 
 
 One of the Finest Streets in Europe. 
 
 The attention of the reader has already been 
 called to the manner in which so many European 
 cities have utilized the space occupied by fortifica- 
 
 INTERIOB OF ST. STEPHEN'S, VIENNA. 
 
 tions, which modern warfare has rendered useless ; but no city 
 except Paris can claim to have been made so attractive as Vienna by 
 means of its Ring Strasse, a series of boulevards encircling the inner city 
 
IN BRILLIANT VIENNA. 155 
 
 and assuming in some places the appearance of parks, two miles in 
 length and, considered from an architectural point of view, one of the 
 finest streets in Europe. Among the many palatial edifices which are 
 found in this belt is the Imperial Opera House, a magnificent renais- 
 sance edifice, which the picture permits to speak for itself. The figures 
 in the balcony are of bronze, and represent Heroism, Tragedy, Fantasy, 
 Comedy, and Love. The vestibule beyond is richly embellished with 
 frescoes and busts of celebrated composers, while the handsome staircase 
 and rich decorations of the interior call for more than a casual notice. 
 
 In the very centre of "the city' 7 rises the grand old Gothic cathedral 
 of St. Stephen, with its graceful spire no less than 475 feet high, where 
 during the centuries veritable wonders in sculpture, paintings, elaborate 
 tombs and statues have accumulated ; a poem in stone, where the great 
 Victor Hugo would have received the same impressions which he has so 
 beautifully described in "Notre Dame de Paris," although externally the 
 two churches have little in common. The spire of St. Stephen is placed 
 entirely on the right side of the church and rests upon a large base, 
 yet its great height entitles it to rank among the great spires of the 
 world, such as Strassburg and Cologne. St. Stephen, as a whole, has 
 not the regularity of construction which strikes one in the case of Notre 
 Dame; but the impression, while different, is no less profound. 
 
 The visitor cannot but be moved at the sight of this great edifice; he 
 fain would remain hours to contemplate its beauties and feel his thoughts 
 raised heavenward. The interior is beyond description, and it would 
 require pages to give even a summary of its numerous altars, tombs, 
 carvings, and statues. In the foreground of the picture, to the left, is 
 seen the pulpit, which fairly represents the incomparable stone carving 
 of the fifteenth century, while all around we see elaborate altars and 
 every niche with a statue. The rich groined vaulting is borne by 
 eighteen massive pillars, adorned by upward of a hundred statues. 
 Monuments, palatial residences, spacious boulevards, royal museums 
 stored with rare antiquities, art galleries filled with works of the old 
 masters, gothic spires and historic churches, historic associations on 
 every side, all this, with the gay life of a metropolis, might well make it 
 hard for the visitor to turn his back upon Vienna, 
 
THE ASCENT OF MONT BLANC. 
 
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XIII. 
 
 AMONG THE ALPS OF 
 SWITZERLAND. 
 
 VIEW from one of the peaks of the Black Forest of the 
 whole chain of the Alps, reaching from Mt. Blanc, 140 
 miles away, to Tyrol in the east, will not soon be forgot- 
 ten, but the view from the Rigi, on Lake Lucerne, while 
 restricted to the Bernese Alps, has probably no rival 
 in the whole world. But the weather must be pro- 
 pitious. Our party ascended by the Rigi railway, 
 $)f which makes you feel as though rising in a balloon, so 
 quickly do lake, and city, and lower hills recede; but as we 
 neared the summit, a cloud enveloped us, a steady mist began 
 to fall, and all hopes of having a view the following morning 
 were apparently shattered. But let the traveler in Switzerland never 
 despair, rise early, make the best of all his time, and carry out his pro- 
 gramme, for when he least expects, there will be a rift in the clouds, 
 and as if by magic touch they will be gathered up, leaving him face to 
 face with some grand and sublime view, such as he had hardly hoped 
 to see. 
 
 A Glorious Sunrise. 
 
 We retired despondent, but rose to witness a glorious sunrise. The 
 whole range of Alpine peaks stood out boldly against the blue sky, 
 but dull and gray, when suddenly here and there a lofty peak, touched 
 by the warm rays of the rising sun, glowed with the rosy hue of life. 
 The snow-clad mountains, though the nearest was over twenty miles 
 awav, seemed so near as to make one think the voice could reach them. 
 The view to the south was bounded by this wall of Alpine peaks, to the 
 
 (157) 
 
158 
 
 AMONG THE ALPS OF SWITZERLAND. 
 
 west were the rugged outlines of the Jura, while northward, 100 miles 
 away, the outlines of the Vosges and Black Forest peaks could be traced, 
 and to the east the Suabian and Bavarian ranges; cities, towns, and 
 villages were visible without number; the great Lake of Lucerne lay 
 close at our feet in wonderful hues of emerald, blue, and purple, while at 
 a greater distance on every side appeared the other well-known lakes. 
 
 From Lucerne we may explore the lake, or rather the series of lakes, 
 and pass the places made illustrious by Schiller's drama of Wilhelm Tell. 
 At Flurlen we take the railroad and pass, within the next hour, through 
 
 THE GLACIER OF TACONNAZ, MONT BLANC. 
 
 the finest scenery of the whole St. Gothard route, climbing the moun- 
 tains, winding about in looping tunnels, until it is utterly impossible to 
 be certain of the direction. At the town of Gesetenen we are near the 
 head of the valley, and after seven miles of tunnel through the St. 
 Gothard we speed along the banks of the Tessino to the shores of Lake 
 Maggiore and the plains of Northern Italy. If we leave the railway at 
 Gesetenen, however, and go a-foot along the turbulent Reuss a few miles 
 farther, we shall come to a wall of rock, which the stream has pierced 
 for itself — the Hole of TJri — and where the road has. emerged from a 
 tunnel, we hardly know whether to believe our eyes, for before us opens 
 
AMONG THE ALPS OF SWITZERLAND. 159 
 
 a charming plain shut in on all sides by lofty mountains; this is the 
 valley of Andermatt, and we are here at one of the most interesting 
 points in the Alps. To our left, that is to the east, a road in sweeping 
 curves climbs the mountain over the tunnel, which in a few hours would 
 take us to the sources of the Rhine ; opposite, a few miles along a similar 
 road takes us over the Gothard Pass to the headwaters of the Tessino, 
 which empties into the Po, while at the other end of the valley, seven 
 miles away, another road mounts in graceful curves and, passing through 
 the Furen Pass, brings us to the Rhone glacier. This rises in terraces a 
 distance of six miles, and seems like an immense frozen cataract, while 
 from beneath it rushes a lusty stream, the Rhone. 
 
 The Heart of the Alps. 
 
 After reaching Bury we may by railway reach the very heart of the 
 Alps at Zermatt, at the foot of the Matterhorn and near Monte Rosa, 
 but we press on and reach the Col de Balme, from which we obtain the 
 first near view of Mont Blanc, and now hasten down the mountain side 
 to the valley of Chamounix. 
 
 Numerous attempts have been made to establish on Mont Blanc an 
 observatory for scientific purposes, but the plan had to be given up ; 
 however, every year scientists from various countries have been success- 
 ful in obtaining valuable observations. Our pictures show such a 
 scientific expedition on the way. In this case the scientist is not a 
 young man, and hence he has contrived a means of being carried part 
 of the time. This contrivance is simply a light ladder about ten feet 
 long, from the centre of which a seat is suspended by straps, and below 
 it in a similar manner, a foot-rest. The traveler thus sits with his arms 
 resting on the sides, his feet supported, and with a board for a rest in 
 front of him, can engage in reading or registering observations as he is 
 being carried on the shoulders of six or eight men. The ladder also 
 serves as a bridge to cross crevasses, and where it is absolutely necessary 
 to walk, the traveler can do so supported by the sides of the ladder, as 
 shown in the first picture, or if wishing to rest, can stretch himself 
 at full length, rapped in rugs. Those who make the climb as an ex- 
 perience and to add to their list of conquests, usually accomplish it in 
 three days, going and returning. 
 
PROCESSION OF BLACK PENITENTS, A RELIGIOUS ORDER. 
 
XIV. 
 
 IN SPAIN 
 
 MM 
 
 HERE are many ways of making a tour in Spain. Of 
 
 these, the one which is usually chosen is the com- 
 fortable tour, which takes the traveler by the main 
 line of railway to Madrid, showing him the cathe- 
 dral of Burgos and the palace of Escorial on the 
 way, and which carries him on to Toledo, Cordova, 
 Seville, and Granada, almost all places which may 
 ,i -. - * be visited and sojourned at with little more of diffi- 
 
 ' K-.^/vljjSS^ culty or of discomfort than is to be met with be- 
 
 tween London and Paris. 
 Who would really see Spain, however, must go prepared to rough it, 
 must be unembarrassed by a courier, must be content with humble inns, 
 coarse fare, windows often glassless, vehicles always jolting, and above 
 all, must put all false pride in his pocket, and treat every Spaniard, 
 from the lowest beggar up, as his equal. If he will bear these things, 
 especially if he will unstiffen his backbone, and genially and cordially 
 respond to the many humble courtesies which he will undoubtedly meet 
 with, he will enjoy Spain, and her abounding treasures of art, of history, 
 of legendary lore, and above all, of kindly, generous hospitality, which 
 will be freely poured out for him. 
 
 Take Spain as You Find Her ; She is not Likely to Improve. 
 
 He must take Spain as he finds her ; she is not likely to improve ; 
 she does not wish to improve; the only way of finding pleasure in her is 
 to take her as she is, without longing for her to be what she is not. 
 The Spanish standard of morals, of manners, of religion, of duty, of all 
 the courtesies which are due from one person to another, however wide 
 
 H (161) 
 
162 
 
 IN SPAIN. 
 
 apart their rank, is a very different ^nd, in most of these points, a much 
 higher standard than the English one, and, if a traveler will not at least 
 endeavor to come up to it, he had much better stay at home. 
 
 Except in the Asturias and some parts of Galicia, there are probably 
 only two places where there is anything that may be called beautiful 
 country in Spain, and these are Monseratt, the noblest, the most 
 gloriously beautiful of rocks, and the palm-groves of Elche. The latter 
 is, indeed, quite surpassingly beautiful, and a painter might linger for- 
 ever upon the glowing loveliness of its contrasts, where the stony yellow 
 
 THE TOWN OF TORLA, SPAIN. 
 
 plain sweeps up close with the luxuriant palm-woods. It has more of 
 the ideal Africa than Africa itself, and is the most splendid oasis in a 
 singularly dismal desert. Generally African travelers complain of the 
 Spanish deserts as being deserts without any oases at all. 
 
 Travel in Spain, then, becomes a constant movement from one town 
 to another — towns which are not as beautiful as those in Italv, not as 
 picturesque as many of those in France and Germany, but which have a 
 peculiar charm of their own in their tortuous whitewashed streets, their 
 vast, brown, mouldering palaces, and their colossal churches, which 
 nothing but sight can give the impression of. 
 
IN SPAIN. 
 
 163 
 
 Such a town Kenelm Digby describes, when he wishes that his 
 " Broad stone of Honor" may resemble one of "those beautiful old cities 
 of Spain," in which one linds everything; cool walks, shaded by orange- 
 trees, along the banks of a river ; great open squares exposed to the 
 burning sun for festivities; narrow, winding, dark streets, composed of 
 houses of every form, height, age, color ; labyrinths of buildings, all con- 
 fused together — palaces, hospitals, convents, halls, all raised in an ap- 
 propriate style of architecture ; market-places resounding to the busy 
 hum of men ; cemeteries, where the living are as silent as the dead ; in 
 
 ABIZANDA, NORTHEASTERN SPAIN. 
 
 the centre, the vast gothic cathedral, with its airy spires and massive 
 tower, its fine sculptured portals, and its arches and capitals of varied 
 tracery, its deep vaults, its forests of pillars, its burning chapels, its 
 multitude of saints, its high altar, lighted with a thousand tapers — 
 •wonderful structure ; imposing by its enormous magnitude, curious in its 
 details, sublime when seen from a distance of two leagues, and beautiful 
 when only two paces from the eye. Then in another quarter of the city, 
 the vast arch or aqueduct, constructed by the Romans; or, concealed 
 by a grove of palms and sycamore, the ruins of the Oriental mosque. 
 The change on crossing the boundary is strangely instantaneous, and 
 
164 IN SPAIN. 
 
 the traveler is forced at once to realize how impossible it will be to 
 travel in Spain without at least some knowledge of its language ; for 
 even on the frontier no other is understood, and the most embarrassing 
 confusion is also in store for one who has not already mastered the intri- 
 cate varieties of the Spanish coinage in which his fresh tickets have to 
 be paid for. 
 
 Spanish Courtesy. 
 
 Immediately, also, Spanish customs come into play. You ask his 
 worship, the porter, to have the graciousness to assist you in lifting 
 your portmanteau ("Mozo, hagame Usted el favor de llevar maleta,") 
 and you implore his worship, the Beggar, your brother, for the 
 love of God, to excuse you from giving him anything ("Perdoneme 
 Usted, por Dios, hermano "). Pleasantly, however, does this excess of 
 Spanish courtesy strike you when you are about to enter the railway 
 carriage. However crowded it may already be, however rilled up with 
 the hand-bags and impedimenta of its occupants, the new-comers, who 
 would be scowled upon in England, are welcomed with smiles and will- 
 ing help ; places are at once made for them, their bags and baskets are 
 comfortably stowed away, and everything that can be supplied is offered 
 for their convenience ; every Spanish gentleman is willing to assist, 
 translate, or advise ; and if you travel in the second-class carriages^ 
 which, as in many parts of Germany, are, in the north of Spain, often 
 much more roomy and comfortable, and generally far less crowded than 
 the first, not even the humblest peasant leaves it without lifting his hat, 
 and wishing you a hearty "A Dios, Senores." The train crawls along 
 in the most provoking way, stopping at all the stations for two, four, ten, 
 twenty minutes, and giving you ample time to survey the scenery. You 
 feel impatient, but your Spanish companions are perfectly satisfied ; " it 
 is so much safer, so satisfactory never to have any accidents." Time is 
 of no importance to them, whatever. " One can smoke one's cigarritos 
 as well in one place as in another." In the older Spanish towns it is 
 useless to take a guide, and it is almost equally so to ask your way. It 
 is only to those who wander indefatigably through the winding streets, 
 that all the interesting objects reveal themselves, though the process is 
 often assisted by the ascent, in the first instance, of some lofty tower, 
 whence the town is seen as in a map. 
 
XV. 
 
 PORTUGAL 
 
 ^j,j. i v^ 
 
 PAIN and Portugal have been likened to two men 
 sitting back to back, who will never turn their 
 heads. There is an inherent dislike between 
 the people of the two countries which keeps 
 them farther apart than would seem possible for 
 two neighboring peoples. The very languages, 
 contrary to common opinion, are entirely distinct. 
 The Portuguese is more flexible than any other 
 European language except English. It is not diffi- 
 cult to acquire, and has been described as " Latin with 
 the bones out." 
 Few cities in the world are more beautiful than Lisbon. It has few 
 churches, no great buildings, is without parks, and yet the first view of 
 the city is very striking. It rises from the shore in regular rows of 
 stately houses of grayish-yellow limestone which rivals marble in 
 appearance, and the clear southern atmosphere brings out all the bold- 
 ness and freshness of the lines which form the picture. 
 
 Lisbon used to be described as a very dirty city, and it was infested, 
 like the cities of the Mahometan East, by a band of dogs, half wild, and 
 without owners, which were the only scavengers of the city, and which 
 actually made the streets unsafe at night; but a great reform has been 
 effected, and human scavengers having been substituted, the city has been 
 freed from the pest of dogs. Lisbon was originally called Olisipo ; by 
 the Romans, Felicitas Julia ; and by the Moors, Lishbuna and Ashbuna. 
 It was captured by the Moors at the beginning of the eighth century 
 and was held by them almost continuously until about the middle of the 
 
 (165) 
 
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PORTUGAL. 167 
 
 twelfth, when Alfonso I made it one of the great European capitals. It 
 reached the height of its power early in the sixteenth century, when the 
 Portuguese led the world in commercial enterprise and maritime discovery. 
 The city has never entirely recovered from the great earthquake of 1755, 
 of the effects of which vestiges still remain. The greater part of the 
 city was destroyed, and 60,000 people are believed to have perished 
 within the space of six minutes. A great, new marble quay on which 
 multitudes of people had collected for safety, sank, carrying down in the 
 whirlpool thus caused, not only those who stood upon it, but the boats 
 and vessels near by, and no boat or man ever reappeared on the surface, 
 and the water stood 600 feet deep over the spot. 
 
 CORSICA. 
 
 Corsica — according to Dr. Bennet, " without doubt the most beautiful 
 island in the Mediterranean" — is a short range of mountains thrown up 
 abruptly in that angle of the historic sea, formed by France on the 
 north, and Italy on the east. The principal ridge runs about north and 
 south, throwing off spurs to' the east and west, from which other offshoots 
 straggle down in endless variety of form and outline to the sea. The 
 highest summits are capped with snow three parts of the year. Lower 
 down stunted pines crop up among the ragged crags. The growth 
 thickens, and the lower hills are clothed with forests of giant firs, but 
 many a shattered trunk and torn limb stands out in evidence against 
 the fierce winds that sweep through the mountain gorges. Lower yet, 
 the firs mingle with noble chestnuts, and these, in turn, are interspersed 
 with gray olives. Still descending, the olives give place to terraced 
 gardens, where graceful palms spring up above the citron and orange, 
 whose dark,- shining foliage is spangled with golden fruit. Here, down 
 in the sheltered valleys, the banana and guava ripen ; canes, twenty feet 
 high, mark the course of the streams; agaves and Barbary figs skirt the 
 roads, and the rose blooms all the year round. The island is but fifty 
 miles across in its broadest part, yet in this brief space a diversity of 
 climate exists equal to that which is to be found between Stockholm and 
 
168 CORSICA. 
 
 Naples. The visitor who ventures to cross the island in January, may, 
 at six o'clock, be called out of his coupe into the fog, to help in dragging 
 the diligence through the Foce de Yizzanova — with the possibility, in 
 the event of failure, of being buried seventeen feet in snow — and at ten, 
 be taking lunch in the open air at Ajaccio, grateful to the eucalyptus 
 that shelters him from the sun. There he will see the fog that still 
 hangs about Yizzanova; but from below it takes the form of a pearly 
 cloud clinging to the mountain, whose crest rises above it glistening like 
 frosted silver against the deep-blue sky. On the coast there are, in 
 reality, but two seasons: one hot and dry, from May to September; the 
 other soft and temperate, from September to May; and to enjoy perpetual 
 immunity from excess of heat and cold, one has but to follow in the steps 
 of the goatherd, who comes down into the lowlands with his goats, his 
 dog and his family, carrying his household effects, as soon as the leaves 
 begin to fall from the chestnuts ; and returns to the highlands when the 
 woods up there take on their first tender tints of spring. 
 
 A Rough-and-Ready Plan of Corsica. 
 
 The right hand upturned, with the index extended and the other 
 fingers closed upon the palm, gives a rough-and-ready plan of Corsica, 
 the fingers showing that part of the island most worthy to be explored, 
 and the thumb representing the only portion which should not be visited. 
 From Bonifacio to Bastia — which may be supposed to stand where the 
 tip of the thumb lies on the second joint of the forefinger — the east coast 
 is not only uninteresting, but dangerously unhealthy in certain seasons. 
 For this reason, Bastia should be taken as the starting-point, the visitor 
 turning his back upon the south, with the comforting assurance that 
 there is nothing there worth seeing save Bonifacio, which will be ulti- 
 mately reached by following the safer and more picturesque route along 
 the north and west coast. There are other considerations favorable to 
 this selection; and not the most unimportant to those who .regard com- 
 fort is, that from Leghorn to Bastia the voyage is shorter than from 
 Newhaven to Dieppe. 
 
 Cape Corso is before us, a long promontory, represented in our plan 
 by the top of the forefinger, formed by the prolongation of the mountain 
 chain which is the backbone of the island. The two sides of this moun- 
 
CORSICA. 
 
 169 
 
 tain range are entirely different in aspect : on the east, the green, wide, 
 undulating slopes, with fishing villages nestling in the bays at their feet, 
 and white hamlets perched upon the heights above, are charming; on 
 the west, deep ravines, the innumerable little fjords, and rugged granite 
 rocks plunging into the sea, with the view of blue waters and snow- 
 capped mountains beyond, are superb, and challenge any point upon 
 the famous Corniche Road of Mce. The ramifications of the range form 
 natural divisions of territory, each commune occupying a river basin. 
 Formerly these communes had no means of communication, except by 
 extremely difficult mountain paths, or by the sea; now a good carriage 
 road cut en corniche, and following the contour of the slopes, skirts the 
 whole seaboard from Bastia to St. Florent. 
 
 CATHEDRAL AND LEANING TOWER OP PISA, ITALY. 
 
 This celebrated cylindrical Tower, commenced in 1174, is 179 ft. high, 50 ft. in diameter, and leans about 
 13 ft. from the perpendicular. It is divided into eight stories, each having 1 an exterior gallery project- 
 ing 7 ft. The summit is reached by 330 steps. The fault -was discovered before its completion, and 
 the upper courses were shaped to counteract the deflection from the perpendicular. The chime of 
 seven bells at the top, the largest of which weighs 12,000 lbs., are so placed as to counterbalance by 
 their gravity the leaning of the Tower. 
 
XVI. 
 
 SUNNY ITALY AND CLASSICAL 
 
 GREECE. 
 
 HOEVER," said Chateaubriand, "has nothing else 
 left in life, should come to live in Rome ; there 
 he will find for society a land which will nourish 
 his reflections, walks which will always tell 
 him something new. The stone which crum- 
 bles under his feet will speak to him, and even 
 the dust which the wind raises under his foot- 
 steps will seem to bear with it something of 
 human grandeur." 
 
 The impressiveness of an arrival at the 
 Eternal City was formerly enhanced by the 
 solemn singularity of the country through which it was 
 slowly approached. " Those who arrive at Rome now, 
 by the railway," says Mrs. Craven, in her "Anne Severin," "and rush 
 like a whirlwind into a station, which has nothing in its first aspect 
 to distinguish it from one of the most obscure places in the world, 
 cannot imagine the effect which the words ' Ecco Roma ' formerly pro- 
 duced, when on arriving at the point in the road from which the Eternal 
 City could be descried for the first time, the postilion stopped his horses, 
 and pointing it out to the traveler, in the distance, pronounced them 
 with that Roman accent which is grave and sonorous as the name of 
 Rome itself." 
 
 It is the peculiarity of the great cities of Italy, that none of them are 
 capitals in the ordinary sense of the word — types and representatives of 
 
 (171) 
 
172 SUNNY ITALY AND CLASSICAL GREECE. 
 
 # 
 
 the country, such as Paris is of France, or London of England. The 
 great centres of old Italian life, Rome, Venice and Florence, are all as 
 distinct as individuals, incapable on the spur of the moment of being 
 trimmed into any breadth of nationality, or made to represent more than 
 themselves. 
 
 Other, though not many cities have histories as noble, treasures as 
 vast ; but no other city has them living, and ever present in her midst, 
 familiar as household words, and touched by every baby's hand, and 
 peasant's step, as Florence has. 
 
 In Florence. 
 
 Every line, every gable, every road, every tower, has some story of the 
 past, present with it. Every tocsin that sounds is a chronicle ; every 
 bridge that unites the two banks of the river unites also the crowds of 
 the living with the heroism of the dead. 
 
 In the winding, dusty, irregular streets, with the outlines of their 
 loggie and arcades, and the glow of color that fills their niches and 
 galleries, the "men who have gone before" walk with you. The beauty 
 of the past goes with you at every step in Florence. Buy eggs in the 
 market, and you buy them where Donatello bought those which fell 
 down in a broken heap before the wonder of the crucifix. Pause in a 
 narrow by-street, in a crowd, and it shall be that Borgo Allegri, which 
 the people so baptized for love of the old painter and the new-born art. 
 Stray into a great dark church at evening time, where peasants tell 
 their beads in the vast marble silence, and vou are where the whole citv 
 flocked, weeping, at midnight, to look their last on the dead face of their 
 Michael Angelo. 
 
 Buy a knot of March anemones or April arum lilies, and you may bear 
 them with you through the same city ward in which the child Ghirlandajo 
 once played amidst the gold and silver garlands that his father fashioned 
 for the young heads of Renaissance. Ask for a shoemaker, and you will 
 find the cobbler sitting with his board in the same old twisting, shadowy 
 street-way, where the old man, Toscanelli, drew his charts that served a 
 fair-haired sailor of Genoa called Columbus. Toil to fetch a tinker 
 through the squalor of San Mcolo, and there shall fall on you the shadow 
 of the bell-tower where the old Sacristan saved to the world the genius 
 
SUNNY ITALY AND CLASSICAL GREECE. 173 
 
 of night and day. Glance up to see the hour of the evening, and there, 
 sombre and tragical, will loom above you the walls of the communal 
 palace on which the traitors were painted by the brush of Sarto, and 
 the tower of Giotto, fair and fresh in its perfect grace, as though angels 
 had builded it in the night just past. 
 
 The Most Beautiful of all Fountains. 
 
 About four miles from the Porta al Prato is the charming villa of 
 Petraja. It was bought by Ferdinando I, and adorned by Buontalenti. 
 One tower, only, remains of the castle of the Brunelleshi, its ancient 
 owners, who defended it in 1364 against the Pisans. The gardens on 
 the southern slope of the Apennines are quite lovely. A beautiful 
 fountain by Tribolo is surmounted by a Venus of Giovanni da Bologna. 
 It is pronounced by Yasari to be the "most beautiful of all fountains." 
 The loggie are adorned with frescoes by II Volterrano. Here Scipione 
 Ammirato, under the eye of Cosimo and his son Ferdinando, wrote that 
 history of Florence that procured him the name of the New Livy. 
 
 In the valley below Petraja is the villa of Castello, which was the 
 residence of the Medici before their elevation to the sovereignty. It was 
 afterward enlarged by Tribolo for Cosimo I. Its beautiful fountain has 
 a group of Hercules and Antgeus by Ammanato. 
 
 The vicinity of Florence abounds in places and objects of beauty or 
 historic interest. Just outside the city is the Torre del Gallo, which is 
 believed to have been the observatory of Galileo, where he studied the 
 moon. "About the foot of the tower, ivy and vervain, and the Madonna's 
 herb, and the white sexagons of the stars of Bethlehem, grew amongst 
 the grasses; pigeons paced to and fro with pretty pride and plumage; 
 a dog slept on the flags; the cool, moist, deep-veined creepers climbed 
 about the stones; there were peach trees in all the beauty of their 
 blossoms, and everywhere about them were close-set olive trees, with the 
 ground about them scarlet with the tulips and the wild-rose bushes. 
 
 "The world has spoiled most of its places of pilgrimage, but the old 
 star tower is not harmed as yet, where it stands amongst its quiet garden 
 ways and grass-grown slopes, up high amongst the hills, with sounds of 
 dripping water on its court, and wildwood-flowers thrusting their bright 
 heads through the stones. It is as peaceful, as simple, as homely, as 
 
p 
 
 Pn 
 o 
 
 o 
 
SUNNY ITALY AND CLASSICAL GREECE. 175 
 
 closely-girt with blossoming boughs and with tulip-crimsoned grasses 
 now as then, when from its roof, in the still midnight of far-off time, its 
 master read the secrets of the stars." 
 
 The Lone Mother of Dead Empires. 
 
 The interest of Eome comes to its climax in the Forum. In spite of 
 all that is destroyed, and all that is buried, so much remains to be 
 seen, and every stone has its story. This spot, where the Senate had 
 its assemblies, where the rostra were placed, where the destinies of the 
 world were discussed, is the most celebrated and most classical of 
 ancient Eome. It was adorned by the most magnificent monuments, 
 which were so crowded upon one another that their heaped-up ruins are 
 not sufficient for all the names which are handed down to us by history. 
 The course of centuries has overthrown the Forum, and made it impos- 
 sible to define ; the level of the ancient soil is twentv-four feet below 
 that of to-day, and however great a desire one may feel to reproduce the 
 past, it must be acknowledged that this very difference of level is a very 
 great obstacle to the powers of imagination ; again, the uncertainties of 
 archaeologists are discouraging to curiosity and the desire of delusion. 
 The origin of the Forum goes back to the alliance of the Romans and 
 the Sabines. It was a space surrounded by marshes, which extended 
 between the Palatine and the Capitol, occupied by the two colonies, and 
 serving as a neutral ground where they could meet. The Curtian Lake 
 was situated in the midst. Constantly adorned under the Republic and 
 the empire, it appears that it continued to exist until the eleventh cen- 
 tury. Its total ruin dates from Robert Guiscard, who, when called to the 
 assistance of Gregory VII, left it a heap of ruins. Abandoned for many 
 centuries, it became a receptacle for rubbish, which gradually raised the 
 level of the soil. About 1547, Paul III began to make excavations in 
 the Forum. Then the place became a cattle-market, and the glorious 
 name of Forum Romanum was changed to that of Campo Vaccino. 
 
 The Forum was surrounded by a portico of two stories, the lower of 
 w 7 hich was occupied by shops. In the beginning of the sixth century of 
 Rome, two fires destroyed part of the edifices with which it had been 
 embellished. This was an opportunity for isolating the Forum, and 
 basilicas and temples were raised in succession along its sides, which, 
 
176 
 
 SUNNY ITALY AND CLASSICAL GREECE. 
 
 in their turn, were partly destroyed in the lire of Nero. Domitian rebuilt 
 a part, and added the temple of Yespasian, and Antoninus that of 
 Faustina. 
 
 The Residence of the Pope. 
 
 Volumes might be written about the Vatican; its history, its archi- 
 tecture, its unequalled collections of books, of paintings, of sculpture ; the 
 frescoes on the walls of its chapels. 
 
 The windows of the Egyptian Museum look upon the inner Garden of 
 the Vatican, which may be reached by a door at the end of the long 
 
 THE GARDENS OF THE VATICAN, ROME. 
 
 gallery of the Museo Chiaramonti, before ascending to the Torso. The 
 garden which is thus entered, called Giardino della Pigna, is in fact the 
 second great quadrangle of the Vatican, planted with shrubs and flowers. 
 Several interesting relics are preserved here. In the centre is the 
 Pedestal of the Column of Antonius Pius, found in 1709 on the Monte 
 Citorio. The column was a simple memorial pillar of granite, erected 
 by the two adopted sons of the Emperor, Marcus Aurelius and Lucius 
 Verus. It was broken up to mend the obelisk of Psammeticus I, at the 
 Monte Citorio. Among the reliefs of the pedestal is one of a winged 
 genius guiding Antonius and Faustina to Olympus. In the great semi- 
 
SUNNY ITALY AND CLASSICAL GREECE. 
 
 177 
 
 circular niche of Bramante, at the end of the court-garden is the famous 
 Pigna, a gigantic fir-cone, which once crowned the summit of the Mauso- 
 leum of Hadrian. 
 
 On either side of the Pigna are two bronze peacocks, which are said 
 to have stood on either side of the entrance of Hadrian's Mausoleum. A 
 flight of steps leads from this court to the narrow Terrace of Navicella, 
 in front of the palace, so called from a bronze ship with which its foun- 
 tain is decorated. The visitor should beware of the tricksome water- 
 works upon this terrace. 
 
 THE VIEW PROM THE PALATINE, ROME. 
 
 Beyond the court-yard is the entrance to the larger garden, which may 
 be reached in a carriage by those who do not wish to visit the palace on 
 the way, by driving round through the courts at the back of St. Peter's. 
 It is always open till 2 p. m., after which hour the Pope goes there to 
 walk, or to ride upon his white mule. It is a most delightful retreat from 
 the hot days of May and June, and before that time its woods are carpeted 
 with wild violets and anemones. No one who has not visited them can form 
 any idea of the beauty of these ancient groves, interspersed with fountains 
 and statues, but otherwise left to nature, and forming a fragment of 
 sylvan scenery quite unassociated with the ordinary idea of a garden. 
 
 12 
 
178 SUNNY ITALY AND CLASSICAL GREECE. 
 
 The Palatine and the "Palace of the Ceesars." 
 
 Originally, the Palatine formed a trapezium of solid rock, two sides 
 of which were about 300 yards in length, the others about 400. 
 
 The history of the Palatine is the history of the City of Rome. Here 
 was the Roma Quadrata, the "oppidum" or fortress of the Pelasgi, of 
 which the only remaining trace is the name Roma, signifying force. 
 This is the fortress where the shepherd-king Evander is represented by 
 Virgil as welcoming iEneas. The Pelasgic fortress was enclosed by 
 Romulus within the limits of his new city, which, after the " Etruscan 
 fashion, he traced round the foot of the hill with a plough drawn by a 
 bull and a heifer, the farrow being carefully made to fall inward, and 
 the heifer yoked to the near-side, to signify that courage and strength 
 were required without, obedience and fertility within the city. The 
 locality thus enclosed was reserved for the temples of the gods and the 
 residence of the ruling class, the class of patricians, of burghers, as 
 Niebuhr has taught us to entitle them, which predominated over the 
 dependent commons, and only suffered them to crouch for security under the 
 walls of Romulus. The Palatine was never occupied by the plebs. In 
 the last age of the Republic, long after the removal of this partition, or 
 of the civil distinction between the great classes of the state, here was 
 still the chosen site of the mansions of the highest nobility." 
 
 In the time of the early kings, the City of Rome was represented by 
 the Palatine only. It was at first divided into two parts, one inhabited, 
 and the other left for the grazing of cattle. It had two gates, the Porta 
 Rom ana to the north, and the Porta Mugonia — so called from the lowing 
 of the cattle — to the south, on the side of the Velia. Augustus was 
 born on the Palatine, and dwelt there in common with other patrician 
 citizens in his youth. After he became Emperor, he still lived there, but 
 simply, and in the house of Hortensius, till, on its destruction by fire, 
 the people of Rome insisted on building him a palace more worthy of 
 their ruler. This building was the foundation-stone of the " Palace of 
 the Caesars," which in time overran the whole hill, and under Nero, two 
 of the neighboring hills besides. 
 
 A traveler in the land of Pericles finds his interest in the remains of 
 classical antiquity equalled, if not surpassed, in his study of modern 
 Greece and modern Greeks. The ruins of temples to the heathen gods 
 
SUNNY ITALY AND CLASSICAL GREECE. 179 
 
 will engage his attention, not only for the intrinsic beauty of the frag- 
 ments, but because the paganism which evoked them is woven into the 
 highest forms of literature and art which the human race has yet 
 achieved, but the modern Greek relies no longer upon the aid of Apollo or 
 Mercury, or the mighty Thunderer himself ; his ancestors for many cen- 
 turies have forsaken the Delphic oracle, and the ancient myths, which 
 played so important a part in the life of the Athenian or the Spartan 
 f 4 old, have no place in this modern time. But even in the nineteenth 
 century the Greeks love to clothe their history, and particularly their 
 religion, with legends of the wonderful and the miraculous. 
 
 A Pretty Story. 
 
 A pretty story is told of the origin of the great monastery at Megas- 
 pilion : A little girl, tending a flock of goats, observed one of these 
 animals, with traces of water on its mouth, coming from a thicket where 
 she knew there w T as no spring. Unable to explain, and anxious to 
 ascertain the fact, she followed the animal until it reached a secluded 
 spot, when the Virgin appeared to her in the shape of an old woman, 
 commanding her to summon a priest, and to enjoin him to set fire to a 
 neighboring wood, which was then tenanted by a huge serpent that 
 devoured the passers-by. The priest arrived, a torch was applied to the 
 thicket, and the serpent was surrounded by a sea of flames. His dying 
 agonies were terrible to behold, his groans horrible to hear. At length 
 he became still in death, and the country w r as delivered from the scourge ; 
 but even now sometimes a low. strange, hissing sound falls on the 
 traveler's ear at midnight, freezing his blood, and filling his bosom with 
 unwonted termor. A spring was found where the serpent died, and over 
 it a shrine was erected to the Virgin. The girl was made a saint, and 
 the shrine became the mighty Megaspilion. 
 
 The Modern Greek. 
 
 Another legend tells that St. Elias took refuge on the almost inacces- 
 sible mountain when chased by Mahomet, who not being exactly sound 
 in wind, could not follow him to the summit. 
 
 A modern Greek is a great lover of festivals, and with him they are 
 all connected with the church. Christianity, in Greece, inherited these 
 festivals from the old paganism which filled the year with days set apart 
 
MONASTERY OF MEGASPILION, GREECE. 
 
SUNNY ITALY AND CLASSICAL GREECE. 181 
 
 as sacred to particular gods. But the Greek finds in his religious holi- 
 day not a time of fasting or mourning, but a time of merrymaking and 
 rejoicing. After dinner, on such a holiday, the people of a Greek village 
 flock through the streets to a place on the outskirts of the town known 
 as the place of the chorus. The dress of the men is frequently a dark 
 jacket, richly embroidered, over a white fustanella, and a red fez or a 
 parti-colored cap upon the head. The maidens w T ear a white dress with 
 a long, narrow, red apron, and a red girdle, while the head is covered by 
 a white kerchief almost concealing the hair in front, but allowing the 
 long braid to fall freely down at the back. They are fond of metallic 
 ornaments, frequently using coins for this purpose. 
 
 The music is furnished by two men who play, respectively, upon a 
 drum, and upon a curious instrument called a caramousa, which produces 
 a strange, snarling sound. A circle is formed for the dance, which con- 
 sists of two or three steps forward and back, with a peculiar motion of 
 the feet in monotonous repetition. 
 
 Classical Names. 
 
 The modern Greeks, like their ancestors, take great interest in the 
 affairs of state, and it is not an unusual thing in small villages, on 
 Sunday, after church, for the partisans of two candidates for some petty 
 office to engage in noisy street fights, in which, however, little harm is 
 done. The women are even more violent than the men in their politi- 
 cal animosities, and break off their neighborly friendships, quarrel in 
 public, and when they are assembled at the general washing place, 
 sometimes fight so desperately as to sacrifice in the glorious cause of 
 party politics, the linen they have washed, and even handfuls of their 
 golden tresses, using as weapons their distaffs, and sometimes the clubs 
 with which they beat the clothes. Curiously enough, they strongly 
 object to their husbands and brothers fighting, seeming to think that 
 they are entitled to a monopoly of that delightful pastime. 
 
 Not the least matter of interest to the traveler will be the names of the 
 common people in Greece. He will see Clytemnestra quarreling w T ith 
 Penelope; Euphrosyne, or one of her sister Graces, maybe met in about 
 any assembly of washerwomen ; Eurydice and Aphrodite are to be seen 
 in the flesh in almost any village street ; Plato argues upon local politics 
 
182 SUNNY ITALY AND CLASSICAL GREECE. 
 
 with Plutarch ; and Achilles has no lack of modern namesakes ; Athana- 
 sius, Spiridion, Loukas, Didaskalus, Basilius and Constantius may be 
 found laughing at Odysseus as he mocks the language and the attitudes 
 of the women in their latest quarrel. 
 
 Monasteries abound in Greece, and one is to be found in every district. 
 The long subjection to the Turk seems to have fostered the spirit of 
 monasticism, and one is not surprised to learn that these institutions are 
 somewhat fewer since the independence of the country, though the num- 
 ber now to be found is very large. This monasticism seems to culminate 
 in Mount Athos, in Macedonia, where a great colony of monks burrow 
 all over a range of mountains. 
 
 The traveler will readily find his way to the village wine-shops where 
 he may break his fast upon good wine and dark, well-baked bread, of 
 coarse, unbolted flour, at very reasonable prices. He may also be served 
 with little granulous balls of goat's cheese, from which, as it is made 
 by untidy mountain shepherds, he will, if he is fastidious, carefully pick 
 out the goat hairs. 
 
 A town of three or four thousand inhabitants is sometimes situated 
 at a distance from any wagon road, and mule-paths and lanes are the 
 only means of passage. The houses can frequently be built of stone 
 quarried on the spot. In such a town there will be several stores, coffee 
 houses, and wine shops, where trade seems to be lively, though of such 
 a petty nature as to be carried on chiefly by means of copper coins, 
 which would make much ready cash a burden grievous to be borne. In 
 the principal street is the agora, or assembling-place, where gossip of a 
 social or political nature is to be enjoyed. 
 
 The Chief Industry. 
 
 Olive culture is one of the chief industries of these mountain villages, 
 and in the season, the inhabitants of all ages may be found in the 
 orchards harvesting the crop. Donkeys carry the bags of olives to the 
 mill. In the village school the children will be found acquiring that 
 wonderful Greek language which survives the catastrophes of three 
 thousand years, and lives in the modern country in much of its Homeric 
 simplicity. There may also be a high school for more advanced pupils, 
 
MODERN GREEK FROM THE ISLAND OF CRETE, 
 
184 SUNNY ITALY AND CLASSICAL GREECE. 
 
 where boys will be found wrestling with Xenophon and Lucian, trans- 
 lating into the modern dialect, and committing fragments to memory. 
 
 The women are more hardy and persistent laborers than the men. 
 They work among the olives and vines, attend to their family and 
 household duties, weave, dye, and make carpet. Some fathers are said 
 to train their daughters to the use of the gun, for present service against 
 the wolf, and possible future use against the Turk. It is always wash- 
 day in such a village, and the scanty drapery of the women as they 
 rinse and beat the linen in their vigorous efforts to free it from dirt is 
 somewhat embarrassing to the novice who strolls along the path passing 
 the spring or stream. The social centre of the village is the wine shop. 
 Here you are sure to meet all your acquaintances, and everybody is 
 willing to talk or to listen. The archaeologist, the student of history or 
 of art, will not care for these things. It is not the Greece of to-day, but 
 that of ancient times that entices him. He will turn to Athens, to the 
 ruins scattered over the length and breadth of the land, and will find 
 everywhere the remains of that civilization which bequeathed to us 
 much of what is the best in our own. But the Greece of to-day has 
 another and different interest, and the student of mankind will find no 
 more fertile field for study than the people of the modern state which 
 succeeds to the land of Plato and Socrates, of Phidias and of Pericles. 
 
 The Miniature Principality of Monaco. 
 
 It is a wonderful spot, this little principality of Monaco, hemmed in 
 between the high mountains and the assailing sea, and long hermetically 
 cut off from all its more powerful and commercial neighbors. Between 
 the palm-lined boulevards of Nice, and the grand amphitheatre of 
 mountains that shut in Mentone as with a perfect semicircle of rearing 
 peaks, one rugged buttress, the last long subsiding spur of the great 
 Alpine axis, runs boldly out to seaward, and ends in the bluff rocky 
 headland of the Tete de Chien that overhangs Monte Carlo. Till very 
 lately no road ever succeeded in turning the foot of that precipitous prom- 
 ontory. The famous Corniche route runs along a ledge high up its 
 beetling side, past the massive Roman ruin of Turbia, and looks down 
 from a height of fifteen hundred feet upon the palace of Monaco. This 
 mountain bulwark of the Turbia long formed the real boundary line be- 
 
SUNNY ITALY AND CLASSICAL GREECE. 
 
 185 
 
 tween ancient Gaul and Liguria; and on its very summit, where the 
 narrow Koman Road wound along the steep pass, now widened into the 
 magnificent highway of the Corniche, Augustus built a solid square 
 monument to mark the limit between the Province and the Italian soil, 
 as well as to overawe the mountaineers of this turbulent region. A 
 round mediaeval tower, at present likewise in ruins, crowns the Roman 
 work. Here the Alps end abruptly. The rock of Monaco at their base 
 is their last ineffectual seaward protest. And what a rock it is, that 
 quaint ridge of land, crowned by the strange capital of that miniature 
 
 
 MONTE CABLO, MEDITERRANEAN COAST. 
 
 principality ! As you look down on it from above, from the heights of 
 the Corniche, it certainly forms the most picturesque town site in all 
 Europe. 
 
 Beauty of Monaco. 
 
 There can be no question at all that Monte Carlo even now, with all 
 its gew-gaw additions, is very beautiful ; and even the new town itself, 
 which grows apace, has a picturesqueness of hardy arch, bold rock, well- 
 perched villa, which redeems it to a great extent from any rash charge 
 of common vulgarity. All looks like a scene in a theatre at pantomime 
 time, not like a prosaic bit of this work-a-day world of ours. Around us is 
 
186 SUNNY ITALY AND CLASSICAL GREECE. 
 
 the blue Mediterranean, broken into a hundred petty sapphire bays. 
 Back of us rise tier after tier of Maritime Alps, their huge summits 
 clouded in a fleecy mist. To the left stands the white rock of Monaco ; 
 to the right, the green Italian shore fading away into the purple moun- 
 tains that guard the Gulf of Genoa. Lovely by nature, the immediate 
 neighborhood of the Casino has been made in some ways still more 
 lovely by art. From the water's edge, terraces of tropical vegetation 
 succeed one another in gradual steps toward the grand facade of the 
 gambling house ; clusters of palms and aloes, their base girt by exotic 
 flowers, are thrust cunningly into the foreground of every point of view, 
 so that you see the bay and the mountains through the artistic vistas 
 thus deftly arranged in the very spots where a painter's fancy would 
 have set them. You look across to Monaco past a clump of drooping 
 date branches ; you catch a glimpse of Bordighera through a framework 
 of spreading dracsenas and quaintly symmetrical fan-palms. 
 
 The Bay of Monaco is separated from the Bay of Mentone by the long, 
 low headland of Cape Martin. As one turns the corner from Roquebrune 
 by the column round the cliff, there bursts suddenly upon the view one 
 of the loveliest prospects to be beheld from the Corniche. At our feet, 
 embowered among green lemon and orange trees, Mentone half hides 
 itself behind its villas and its gardens. In the middle distance the old 
 church, with its tall Italian campanile, stands out against the blue peaks 
 of that magnificent amphitheatre. Beyond, again, a narrow gorge 
 marks the site of Pont St. Louis and the Italian frontier. Then come 
 the cliffs and fortifications of Ventimiglia, gleaming white in the sun ; 
 and last of all, the purple hills that hem in San Remo. 
 
 Famed Among the Cities of the World. 
 
 To many, the living present has a deeper interest than the buried 
 past, and to these the innumerable beautiful excursions around Naples 
 will prove more attractive than all the wealth of antiquities in the 
 Museum. Certainly, from a purely aesthetic standpoint, all the best 
 things in Naples are out of it, if the bull may be allowed. To reach 
 Pozzuoli and the classic district of Baige and Cumas, we pass along the 
 fine promenade of the Villa Nazionale (Naples' Hyde Park) which 
 stretches from the Castello dell' Ovo (the Bastile of Naples) to the 
 
SUNNY ITALY AND CLASSICAL GREECE. 
 
 187 
 
 Posilipo promontory, commanding, from end to end, superb, unobstructed 
 views of the Bay. Capri, the central point of the prospect, appears to 
 change its form from day to day, like a fairy island. Sometimes, on a cloud- 
 less day, the fantastic outlines of the cliffs stand out, clearly defined 
 against the blue sea and the still bluer background of the sky ; the 
 houses are plainly distinguished, and you can almost fancy that you can 
 descry the groups of idlers leaning over the parapet of the little piazza, 
 so clear is the atmosphere. Sometimes the island is bathed in a bluish 
 haze, and by a curious atmospheric effect a novel form of Fata Morgana 
 
 PROCIDA AND ISCHIA, BAY OF NAPLES. 
 
 is seen, the island appearing to be lifted out of the water and suspended 
 between sea and sky. 
 
 Sometimes, at sunset, we have a magnificent effect. This sea wall of 
 continuous towns and villages lights up under the dying rays of the sun, 
 like glowing charcoal. The conflagration appears to spread to Naples, 
 and the huge city is " lit up like Sodom, as if fired by some superhuman 
 agency." This atmospheric phenomenon may remind the imaginative 
 spectator of the dread possibilities afforded by the proximity of the ever- 
 threatening volcano towering in terrorem over the thickly-populated 
 plain. 
 
CO 
 
 a 
 
 CO 
 — 
 
 CO 
 
 O 
 
 CO 
 
 O 
 
 a 
 
 O 
 
XVII. 
 
 ALGIERS AND TUNIS. 
 
 LGIERS," says the Arab poet, with genuine Oriental 
 love of precious stones in literature, "is a pearl set 
 in emeralds." And even in these days of Frank 
 supremacy in Islam, the old Moorish town still 
 gleams white in the sun against a deep background 
 of green hillside, a true pearl among emeralds. For 
 it is a great mistake to imagine North Africa, as un- 
 traveled folks suppose, a dry and desert country of arid, 
 rocky mountains. The whole strip of laughing coast which 
 has the Atlas for its backbone may rank, on the contrary, as 
 about the dampest, greenest, and most luxuriant region of the 
 Mediterranean system. The home of the Barbary corsairs is a land of 
 high mountains, deep glens, great gorges ; a land of vast pine forests and 
 thick, verdant undergrowth. A thousand rills tumble headlong down 
 its rich ravines ; a thousand rivers flow fast through its fertile valleys. 
 For wild flowers Algeria is probably unequalled in the whole world ; its 
 general aspect in many ways recalls on a smaller scale the less snow-clad 
 parts of Eastern Switzerland. 
 
 A Fertile Region. 
 
 When you approach the old pirate-nest from the sea, the first glimpse 
 of the African coast that greets your expectant eye is a long, serrated 
 chain of great sun-smitten mountains away inland and southward. As 
 the steamer nears the land you begin, after awhile, to distinguish the 
 snowy ridge of the glorious Djurjura, which is the Bernese Oberland of 
 Algeria, a huge block of rearing peaks, their summits thick-covered by 
 
 (189) 
 
190 
 
 ALGIERS AND TUNIS. 
 
 the virgin snow that feeds in spring a score of leaping torrents. By 
 and by, with still nearer approach, a wide bay discloses itself, and a 
 little range of green hills in the foreground detaches itself by degrees from 
 the darker mass of the Atlas looming large in the distance behind. 
 This little range is the Sahel, an outlier just separated from the main 
 chain in the rear by the once marshy plain of the Metidja, now converted 
 by drainage and scientific agriculture into the most fertile lowland region 
 of all North Africa. 
 
 Algiers, or the City of the Deys. 
 
 Presently, on the seaward slopes of the Sahel, a white town bursts 
 
 THE MARKET OF DJELFA, ALGIERS. 
 
 upon the eye, a white town so very white, so close, so thick-set, that at 
 first sight you would think it carved entire, in tier after tier, from a solid 
 block of marble. No street or lane, or house, or public building of any 
 sort stands visible from the rest, at a little distance; just a group of 
 white steps, you would say, cut out by giant hands from the solid hill- 
 side. The city of the Deys looks almost like a chalk-pit on the slope of 
 an English clown ; only a chalk-pit in relief, built out, not hewn inward, 
 As you enter the harbor the strange picture resolves itself, bit by 
 bit, with charming effect, into its component elements. White houses 
 
ALGIERS AND TUNIS. 191 
 
 rise up steep, one above the other, in endless tiers and rows, upon a 
 very abrupt acclivity. Most of them are Moorish is style, square, flat- 
 roofed boxes ; all are whitewashed without, and smiling like pretty girls 
 that show their pearly teeth in the full, southern sunshine. From with- 
 out they have the aspect of a single, solid block of stone ; you would 
 fancy it was impossible to insert a pin's head between them. From 
 within, to him that enters, sundry narrow and tortuous alleys discover 
 themselves here and there on close inspection ; but they are too involved 
 to produce much effect as of streets or rows, when seen from the water. 
 Land at the quay, and you find at once Algiers consists of two distinct 
 towns : one ancient, one modern ; one Oriental, one western. Now and 
 again these intersect, but for the most part they keep themselves severely 
 separate. 
 
 Unique, Indescribable, Incomprehensible. 
 
 The lower town has been completely transformed within half a cen- 
 tury by its French masters. What it has gained in civiliza-ion it has 
 lost in picturesqueness. A spacious port has been constructed, with 
 massive mole and huge, arcaded breakwater, at one end of which the old 
 octagonal lighthouse of the Barbary corsairs gives a solitary token of 
 the antiquity of the original harbor. Inside, vast archways support a 
 magnificent line of very modern quays, bordered by warehouses on a 
 scale that would do honor to Marseilles or Liverpool. Broad streets run 
 through the length and breadth of this transformed Algiers, streets of 
 stately shops, where ladies can buy all the fripperies and fineries of 
 Parisian dressmakers. Yet even here, the traveler finds himself alreadv, 
 in many ways, in the Orient. The general look of the new town itself 
 is far more eastern than that of modernized Alexandria, since the days 
 of the bombardment. Arabs, Moors, and Kabyles crowd the streets and 
 market places ; muffled women, in loose, white robes, covered up to the 
 eyes, flit noiselessly, with slippered feet, over the new-flagged pavement: 
 turbaned Jews, who might have stepped straight out of the "Arabian 
 Nights," chaffer for centimes at the shop doors with hooded mountain 
 Berbers. All is strange and incongruous ; all is Paris and Bagdad shak- 
 ing hands. 
 
 If the new town of Algiers is interesting, however, the old town is 
 unique, indescribable, incomprehensible. No map could reproduce it; no 
 
192 ALGIERS AND TUNIS. 
 
 clue could unravel it. It climbs and clambers by tortuous lanes and 
 steep staircases up the sheer side of a high hill to the old fortress of the 
 Deys that crowns the summit. Not one gleam of sunshine ever penetrate? 
 down those narrow slips between the houses, where two people can just 
 pass abreast, brushing their elbows against the walls, and treading with 
 their feet in the filth of the gutter. The dirt that chokes the sides is to 
 the dirt of Italy, as the dirt of Italy is to the dirt of Whitechapel. And 
 yet so quaint, so picturesque, so interesting is it all, that even delicate 
 English ladies, with the fear of typhoid fever forever before their eyes, can- 
 not refuse themselves the tremulous joy of visiting it, and exploring it over 
 and over again ; nay more, of standing to bargain for old brass-work or 
 Algerian embroidery with keen Arab shopkeepers in its sunless laby- 
 rinths. Except the Mooskee at Cairo, indeed, there is no place yet left 
 where you can see Oriental life in perfection as well as in the old town 
 of Algiers. For are there not tramways nowadays even in the streets of 
 Damascus? Has not a railway station penetrated the charmed heart of 
 Stamboul ? The Frank has done his worst for the lower town of his own 
 building, but the upper town still remains as picturesque, as mysterious 
 and as insanitary as ever. No Pasteur could clean out those Augean 
 stables. These two incongruous worlds, the ancient and the modern 
 town, form the two great divisions of Algiers as the latter-day tourist 
 knows it. The one is antique, lazy, sleepy, unprogressive ; the other is 
 bustling, new-world, busy, noisy, commercial. But there is yet a third 
 Algiers that lies well without the wall, the Algiers of the stranger and 
 of the winter-resident. It reaches its culminating point about three 
 miles from the town, on the heights on Mustapha Superieur, where 
 charming villas spread thick over the summit hills, and where the 
 Western visitor can enjoy the North African air without any unpleasant 
 addition of fine old crusted Moorish perfumes. 
 
 The road to Mustapha Superieur lies through the Bab-Azzoun gate, 
 and passes first along a wide street thronged with Arabs and Kabyles 
 from the country and the mountains. This is the great market road of 
 Algiers, the main artery of supplies, a broad thoroughfare lined with 
 fondouks or caravanseries, where the weary camel from the desert depos- 
 its his bales of dates, and where black faces of Saharan negroes smile 
 out upon the curious stranger from dense draping folds of some dirty 
 
ALGIERS AND TUNIS. 
 
 193 
 
 burnouse. The cafes are rilled with every variety of Moslem, Jew, Turk, 
 and infidel. Nowhere will you see to better advantage the most won- 
 derful variety of races and costumes that distinguishes Algiers above 
 most other cosmopolitan Mediterranean cities. The dark M'zabite from 
 the oases, arrayed like Joseph in a coat of many colors, stands chatting 
 at his own door with the pale-faced, melancholy Berber of the Aures 
 mountains. The fat and dusky Moor, over-fed on kous-kous, jostles 
 cheek by jowl with the fair Jewess in her Paisley shawl and quaint- 
 native head-gear. Mahonnais Spaniards from the Balearic Isles, girt 
 
 VIEW OF DOUGGA, TUNIS. 
 
 round their waists with red scarfs, talk gaily to French missionary 
 
 priests in violet bands and black cassocks. Old Arabs on white donkeys 
 
 amble with grave dignity down the centre of the broad street, where 
 
 chasseurs in uniform and spahis in crimson cloaks keep them company 
 
 on fiery steeds from the Government stud at Blidah. All is noise and 
 
 bustle, hurry, scurry, and worry, the ant-hill life of an Eastern bazaar 
 
 grotesquely superimposed on the movement and stir of a great European 
 
 city. 
 
 The time of Trajan and the Antonines was the most prosperous in the 
 
 history of North Africa, and it is to this epoch that most of the splendid 
 
 13 
 
 
i94 ALGIERS AND TUNIS. 
 
 remains still existing belong. Then came the introduction of Chris- 
 tianity, in spite of the grievous persecutions which added so many 
 brilliant names to the noble army of the martyrs. The African Church, 
 weakened at length by internal dissensions, crushed by the Vandal 
 invasion, and hardly restored by the Byzantines under Belisarius, was 
 utterly exterminated at the great battle between the Exarch Gregorius 
 and the victorious Arab invaders, which took place at Sufetula, in 
 647 a. d. 
 
 In Tunis. 
 
 Since then Tunis has remained in the hands of the Mohammedans; 
 one dynasty after another has held sway, sometimes independently, at 
 others as vassals of the Porte. It has been remarked that Mohammedan 
 rule consisted of three epochs: first, that of power; second, that of piracy; 
 and third, that of decay. To these may now be added a fourth ; by the 
 treaty of the Kasr-es-Saeed, on the 12th of May, 1881, the Regency 
 passed under the protection of France, and has entered on a career of 
 prosperity which a few years ago would have seemed incredible. It is 
 still governed in the name of the Bey, but the virtual ruler is the 
 Eesident-General, who is declared to be "the depositary of the power of 
 the French Republic in the Regency." 
 
 Domestic architecture under the native Government attained a very 
 high standard of elegance and perfection. In no other place east of 
 Morocco did the Turks or Arabs attempt to manufacture those beautiful 
 tiles inspired by the still finer models of Persia and India. They were 
 content to import them thence, or to employ Spanish imitations, or the 
 faience mosaics of Morocco. But in Tunis they were made in great 
 perfection, and a remnant of the art still survives. One or two Arabs 
 retain the old tradition as regards design and color, but the quality is 
 no longer what it used to be, and every tile is marked with three un- 
 sightly blotches, caused by the "crow's feet" which are used for keeping 
 them apart during the process of baking. The same may be said 
 regarding the wonderful plaster geometric tracery for which the Tuni- 
 sians became so celebrated after the expulsion of the Moors from Spain ; 
 there are very few who can now do the work at all ; none who can equal 
 that executed only fifty years ago. 
 
 The customs of the people harmonize well with the picturesque 
 
ALGIERS AND TUNIS. 195 
 
 character of their surroundings. The upper classes and Government 
 officials wear the inelegant semi-European uniform now general through- 
 out the East ; but the bourgeois have a dress peculiar to the country, 
 more tasteful and elegant than is met with elsewhere. It consists 
 principally of a flowing robe, called Kurta, of very fine woolen stuff, 
 generally dyed of a quiet brown color, and exquisitely embroidered with 
 tracery of green or other bright-colored silk. All wear the red cap, here 
 called Chachia, which is manufactured in greater perfection at Zaghouan 
 than anywhere else in the Mohammedan world. The women are so 
 closely muffled up that one cannot see even the outline of their form ; 
 but this is amply compensated for by the Jewish ladies, whose greatest 
 charm is supposed to consist in obesity — and, as they wear short lace-like 
 jackets and very tight cotton trousers, but little is left to the imagina- 
 tion of the beholders. 
 
 There are many beautiful walks around Tunis, though the country is 
 rather bare and deficient in the luxurious vegetation which is so striking 
 at Algiers. Perhaps the best view is from the hill to the southeast of 
 the town, crowned by two conspicuous buildings — the tomb of Sidi Bel 
 Hassan, and the Bordj Ali Rais. A good complement of this view is 
 obtained from the Belvedere, on the opposite side of the town. The Palace 
 of the Bardo is also worthy of a visit; it is about half an hour's drive 
 from the town, and contains the beautiful State apartments of the Beym, 
 used by him on great religious festivals, and a museum of antiquities 
 collected in various parts of the Regency. 
 
 It has long been the cherished scheme of the distinguished prelate 
 who presides over the Roman Catholic Church in Africa, to rebuild 
 Carthage as a monument to the glory of France, on the spot hallowed 
 by the death of St. Louis. He has built a cathedral, a seminary, and 
 several convents ; but the rise of Carthage would mean the fall of Tunis, 
 and it is difficult to divert commerce from its ancient channels, and hard 
 to condemn so important a city as Tunis to decay. 
 
xvm. 
 
 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
 
 T is a wonderful thing to start from the civilization of 
 Europe, pass up these mighty rivers, and work your 
 way into that unknown land — work your way alone, 
 and on foot, mile after mile, month after month, 
 among strange birds and beasts, and plants and in- 
 sects, meeting tribes which have no name, speaking 
 tongues which no man can interpret, till you have 
 reached its secret heart, and stood where the white 
 man has never trod before. It is a wonderful thing 
 to look at this weird world of human beings — half 
 animal, half children, wholly savage, and wholly heathen ; and to turn 
 and come back to civilization before the impressions have had time to fade, 
 and while the myriad problems of so strange a spectacle are still seeth- 
 ing in the mind. It is an education to see this sight — an education in 
 the meaning and history of man. To have been here is to have lived 
 before Menes. It is to have watched the dawn of evolution. It is to 
 have the great moral and social problems of life, of anthropology, and 
 of ethnology, and even of theology, brought home to the imagination in 
 the most new and startling light. 
 
 Physical Features of Africa. 
 
 Africa, speaking generally, is a vast, ill-formed triangle. It has no 
 peninsulas; it has almost no islands, or bays, or fjords. But three great 
 inlets, three mighty rivers piercing it to the very heart, have been 
 allocated by a kind Nature, one to each of its solid sides. On the north 
 is the river of the past, flowing through Egypt, as Leigh Hunt says : 
 
 (197) 
 
198 
 
 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
 
 11 Like some grave, mighty thought threading a dream ; " on the west 
 the river of the future, the not less mysterious Congo ; and on the east 
 the little-known Zambesi. 
 
 The physical features of this great continent are easily grasped. 
 
 From the coast a low scorched 
 plain, reeking with malaria, 
 extends inland in unbroken 
 monotony for two or three 
 hundred miles. This is suc- 
 ceeded by mountains slowly 
 rising into a plateau 2000 or 
 3000 feet high; and this, at 
 some hundreds of miles dis- 
 tance, forms the pedestal for a 
 second plateau, 4000 to 5000 
 feet high, which may be said 
 to occupy the whole of Central 
 Africa. It is only on the large 
 scale, however, that these are 
 to be reckoned plateaus at all. 
 When one is upon them he sees 
 nothing but mountains and 
 valleys and plains of ordinary 
 type, covered for the most part 
 with forest. 
 
 Stupendous Natural Highways. 
 
 By going some hundreds of 
 miles southward, along the coast 
 from Zanzibar, the traveler 
 reaches the mouth of the 
 Zambesi. Livingstone sailed 
 up this river once, and about a hundred miles from its mouth dis- 
 covered another river twisting away northward among the mountains. 
 The great explorer was not the man to lose such a chance of penetrating 
 the interior. He followed this river up, and after many wanderings 
 
 VILLAGE OF THE M'FAN TRIBE, WESTERN AFRICA. 
 
IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
 
 199 
 
 found himself on the shores of a mighty lake. The river he named the 
 Shire, and the lake — the existence of which was quite unknown before 
 — is Lake Nyassa. Lake Nyassa is 350 miles long ; so that with the 
 Zambesi, the Shire, and this great lake, we have the one thing required 
 to open up East Central Africa 
 
 -a water-route to the interior. 
 
 But this is not all. Two hun- 
 dred and fifty miles from the 
 end of Lake Nyassa, another 
 lake, of still nobler propor- 
 tions, takes up the thread of 
 communication. Lake Tan- 
 ganyika is four hundred and 
 fifty miles in length. Be- 
 tween the lakes stands a lofty 
 plateau, cool, healthy, acces- 
 sible, and without any phys- 
 ical barrier to interrupt the 
 explorer's march. By this 
 route the Victoria Nyanza and 
 the Albert Nyanza may be 
 approached with less fatigue, 
 less risk, and not less speed, 
 than by the overland trail from 
 Zanzibar. At one point also, 
 along this line, one is within 
 a short march of that other 
 great route, which must ever 
 be regarded as the trunk-line 
 of the African continent. The 
 water-shed of the Congo lies 
 on this Nyassa-Tanganyika 
 
 plateau. This is the stupendous natural highway on which so much 
 of the future of East Central Africa must yet depend. 
 
 The Zambesi is the greatest river of Eastern Africa, and after the 
 Congo, the Nile, and the Niger, the most important on the continent. 
 
 TYPES OP THE M'PAN TRIBE, W. AFRICA. 
 
200 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
 
 Rising in the far interior, among the marshes of Lake Dilolo, and gather- 
 ing volume from the streams which flow from the highlands connecting 
 the north of Lake Nyassa with Inner Angola, it curves across the country 
 for over a thousand miles, like an attenuated letter S, and before its four 
 great mouths empty the far-traveled waters into the Indian Ocean, 
 drains an area of more than half a million square miles. As it cuts its 
 way down the successive steps of the central plateaus, its usually placid 
 current is interrupted by rapids, narrows, cascades, and cataracts, corre- 
 sponding to the plateau edges, so that like all the rivers of Africa it is 
 only navigable in stretches of one or two hundred miles at a time. 
 From the coast the Zambesi might be stemmed by steam power to the 
 rapids of Kebrabasa, and from above that point intermittently, as far as 
 the impassable barrier of the Victoria Falls. Above this, for some dis- 
 tance, again follow rapids and waterfalls, but these are at length suc- 
 ceeded by an unbroken chain of tributaries, which together form an 
 inland water-way, a thousand miles in length. The broad lands along 
 the banks of this noble river are subject to annual inundations, like the 
 region of the Nile, and hence their agricultural possibilities are unlim- 
 ited. On the lower Zambesi, indigo, the orchilla weed, and calumba- 
 root abound, and oil-seeds and sugar-cane could be produced in quantity 
 to supply the whole of Europe. At present, owing to apathy and in- 
 different government, these magnificent resources are almost wholly 
 undeveloped. 
 
 Strange Peoples and Animals. 
 
 Narrower and deeper, the tributary Shire is a better stream for naviga- 
 tion than the Zambesi. The scenery is also really fine, especially as 
 one nears the mountains of the plateau, and the strange peoples and 
 animals along the banks occupy the mind with perpetual interest. The 
 hippopotami prowling around the boat and tromboning within pistol- 
 shot, will keep one awake at night; and during the day elephants, 
 buffaloes, deer, and other large game can be seen wandering about 
 the banks. To see the elephant at home is a sight to remember. 
 The stupendous awkwardness of the menagerie animal, as if so large 
 a creature were quite a mistake, vanishes completely when you watch 
 him in his native haunts. Here he is as nimble as a kitten, and 
 you see how perfectly this moving mountain is adapted to its habitat 
 
IN DARKEST AFRICA 
 
 201 
 
 — how such a ponderous monster, indeed, is as natural to these colossal 
 grasses as a rabbit to a modern park: 
 
 Ivory at the Bottom of the Woes of Africa. 
 
 The question of the disappearance of the elephant here and through- 
 out Africa is, as every one knows, only one of a few years. It is hard 
 to think why this kindly and sagacious creature should have to be ex- 
 terminated ; why this vast store of animal energy, which might be 
 turned into so much useful work, should be lost to civilization. But the 
 
 TYPES OF THE ADOUMAS, WESTERN AFRICA. 
 
 causes are not difficult to understand. The African elephant has never 
 been successfully tamed, and is therefore a failure as a source of energy. 
 As a source of ivory, on the other hand, he has been but too great a success. 
 The cost of ivory at present is about half-a-sovereign per pound. An 
 average tusk weighs from twenty to thirty pounds. Each animal has 
 two, and in Africa both male and female carry tusks. The average 
 elephant is, therefore, worth in pounds sterling the weight in pounds 
 avoirdupois of one of his tusks. Single tusks frequently turn the scale 
 upon ninety pounds, the pair in this case being worth nearly one hun- 
 
202 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
 
 dred pounds sterling — so that a herd of elephants is about as valuable 
 as a gold mine. The temptation to sacrifice the animal for his tusks is 
 therefore great ; and as he becomes scarcer he will be pursued by the 
 hunter with ever-increasing eagerness. But the truth is, sad though 
 the confession be, the sooner the last elephant falls before the hunter's 
 bullet, the better for Africa. Ivory introduces into the country at 
 present an abnormal state of things. Upon this one article is set so 
 enormous a premium that none other among African products secures 
 the slightest general attention ; nor will scarcely any one in the interior 
 condescend to touch the normal wealth, or develop the legitimate inter- 
 ests of the country, so long as a tusk remains. In addition to this, of 
 half the real woes which now exist in Africa, ivory is at the bottom. 
 It is not only that wherever there is an article to which a fictitious value 
 is attached the effect upon the producer is apt to be injurious ;■ nor that 
 wherever there is money there is temptation, covetousness, and war; 
 but that unprincipled men, and especially Arabs, are brought into con- 
 tact with the natives in the worst relation, influence them only in one, 
 and that the lowest, direction, and leave them worse than they find 
 them — worse in greed, in knavery, in their distrust of mankind, and in 
 their suspicion of civilization. Further, for every tusk an Arab trader 
 purchases he must buy, borrow, or steal a slave to carry it to the coast. 
 Domestic slavery is bad enough, but now begins the long slave-march 
 with its untold horrors — horrors instigated and perpetuated almost solely 
 by the traffic in ivory. The extermination of the elephant, therefore, 
 will mark one stage, at least, in the closing up of the slave trade. The 
 elephant has done much for Africa. The best thing he can do now for 
 his country is to disappear forever. 
 
 Beaten Tracks Everywhere. 
 
 It may be a surprise to the unenlightened to learn that probably no 
 explorer in forcing his passage through Africa has ever, for more than a 
 few days at a time, been off some beaten track. Probably no country 
 in the world, civilized or uncivilized, is better supplied with paths than 
 this unmapped continent. Every village is connected with some other 
 village, every tribe with the next tribe, every state with its neighbor, 
 and therefore, with all the rest. The explorer's business is simply to 
 
IN DARKEST AFRICA. 203 
 
 select from this network of tracks, keep a general direction and hold on 
 his way. Let him begin at Zanzibar, plant his foot on a native footpath, 
 and set his face toward Tanganyika. In eight months he will be there. 
 He has simply to persevere. From village to village he will be handed 
 on, zigzagging it may be sometimes, to avoid the impassable barriers of 
 nature, or the rarer perils of hostile tribes, but never taking to the 
 woods, never guided solely by the stars, never, in fact, leaving a beaten 
 track, till hundreds and hundreds of miles are between him and the sea, 
 and his interminable footpath ends with a canoe, on the shores of 
 Tanganyika. Crossing the lake, landing near some native village, he 
 picks up the thread once more. Again he plods on and on, now on foot, 
 now by canoe, but always keeping his line of villages, until, one day, 
 suddenly, he sniffs the sea-breeze again, and his faithful foot-wide guide 
 lands him on the Atlantic seaboard. 
 
 Nor is there any art in finding out these successive villages with 
 their intercommunicating links. He must find them out. A whole 
 army of guides, servants, carriers, soldiers, and camp followers accom- 
 pany him in his march, and this nondescript regiment must be fed. 
 Indian corn, cassava, mawere, beans, and bananas — these do not grow 
 wild even in Africa. Every meal has to be bought and paid for in cloth 
 and beads ; and scarcely three days can pass without a call having to be 
 made at some village where the necessary supplies can be obtained. A 
 caravan, as a rule, must live from hand to mouth, and its march be- 
 comes simply a regulated procession through a chain of markets — there 
 are neither bazaars nor stores in native Africa. Thousands of the 
 villages through which the traveler eats his way may never have vic- 
 tualed a caravan before. But, with their chief's consent, which is 
 usually easily purchased for a showy present, the villagers unlock their 
 larders, the women flock to the grinding stones, and basketfuls of food 
 are swiftly exchanged for unknown equivalents in beads and calico. 
 
 The African Footpath a Bee-line. 
 
 The native tracks are veritable footpaths, never over a foot in breadth, 
 beaten as hard as adamant, and rutted beneath the level of the forest 
 bed by centuries of native traffic. As a rule these footpaths are mar- 
 velously direct. Like the roads of the old Komans, they run straight on 
 
204 
 
 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
 
 through everything, ridge and mountain and valley, never shying at 
 obstacles, nor anywhere turning aside to breathe. Yet within this 
 general straightforwardness there is a singular eccentricity and indirect- 
 ness in detail. Although the African footpath is on the whole a bee- 
 line, no fifty yards of it are ever straight. And the reason is not far to 
 seek. If a stone is encountered no native will ever think of removing it. 
 Why should he? It is easier to walk round it. The next man who 
 
 flMBBPP 
 
 ." '■;. .■.'■;. i i' ■ !■, ;.■ ||i I ; ,i 
 
 
 ■I 
 
 
 1 % mk 
 
 '■■■■■■'■■' ; ■■■■■- ■'-'■fedHB 
 
 '«9ffi 
 
 m, 
 m 
 
 
 INTERIOR OF FACTORY, BOULAM, SENEGAMBIA. 
 
 comes that way will do the same. He knows that a hundred men are 
 following him ; he looks at the stone ; a moment, and it might be un- 
 earthed and tossed aside, but no ; he also holds on his way. It is not 
 that he resents the trouble, it is the idea that is wanting. It would no 
 more occur to him that the stone was a displaceable object, and that for 
 the general weal he might displace it, than that its feldspar was of the 
 orthoclase variety. Generations and generations of men have passed 
 that stone, and it still waits for a man with an altruistic idea. But it 
 
IN DARKEST AFRICA. 205 
 
 would be a very stony country indeed — and Africa is far from stony — 
 that would wholly account for the aggravating obliqueness and inde- 
 cision of the African footpath. Probably each four miles, on an average 
 path, is spun out by an infinite series of minor sinuosities, to five or six. 
 Now these deflections are not meaningless. Each has some history — a 
 history dating back perhaps a thousand years, but to which all clue has 
 centuries ago been lost. The leading cause probably is fallen trees. 
 When a tree falls across a path no man ever removes it. As in the case 
 of the stone, the native goes around it. It is too green to burn in his 
 hut ; before it is dry, and the white ants have eaten it, the new detour 
 has become part and parcel of the path. The smaller irregularities, on 
 the other hand, represent the trees and stumps of the primeval forest 
 where the track was made at first. But whatever the cause, it is certain 
 that for persistent straightforwardness in the general, and utter vacilla- 
 tion and irresolution in the particular, the African roads are unique in 
 engineering. 
 
 The Heart of Africa No Desert. 
 
 Nothing could more wildly misrepresent the reality than the idea of 
 one's school days, that the heart of Africa is a desert. Africa rises 
 from its three environing oceans in three great tiers — first, a coast line, 
 low and deadly ; farther in, a plateau the height of the Scottish Gram- 
 pians; farther still, a higher plateau, covering the country for thousands 
 of miles with mountain and valley. Now fill in this sketch, and you 
 have Africa before you. Cover the coast belt with rank, yellow grass, 
 dot here and there a palm; scatter through it a few demoralized villages; 
 and stock it with the leopard, the hyena, the crocodile, and the hippopot- 
 amus. Clothe the mountainous plateaus next — both of them — with 
 endless forest — not grand, umbrageous forest, like the forests of South 
 America, not matted jungle, like the forests of India, but with thin, 
 rather weak forest — with forest of low trees, whose half-grown trunks 
 and scanty leaves offer no shade from the tropical sun. Nor is there 
 anything in these trees, to the casual eye, to remind you that you are in 
 the tropics. Here and there one comes upon a borassus of fan-palm, a 
 candelabra-like euphorbia, a mimosa aflame with color, or a sepulchral 
 baobab. A close inspection also will discover curious creepers and 
 climbers; and among the branches strange orchids hide their eccentric 
 
IN DARKEST AFRICA. 207 
 
 flowers. But the outward type of tree is the same as we have at home 
 — trees resembling the ash, the beech, and the elm, only seldom so 
 large, except by the streams, and never so beautiful. Day after day 
 you may wander through these forests with nothing except the climate 
 to remind you where you are. The beasts, to be sure, are different, but 
 unless you watch for them you will seldom see any; the birds are 
 different, but you rarely hear them ; and, as for the rocks, they are our 
 own familiar gneisses and granites, with honest basalt-dykes boring 
 through them, and leopard-skin lichens staining their weathered sides. 
 Thousands and thousands of miles, then, of vast, thin forest, shadeless, 
 trackless, voiceless — forest in mountain and forest in plain — this is East 
 Central Africa. 
 
 Jaded and Sun-stricken Forests. 
 
 The indiscriminate praise formerly lavished on tropical vegetation has 
 received many shocks from recent travelers. In Kaffirland, South 
 Africa, are one or two forests fine enough to justify the enthusiasm of 
 arm-chair word-painters of the tropics ; but so far as the central plateau 
 is concerned, the careful judgment of Mr. Alfred Russell Wallace respect- 
 ing the equatorial belt in general — a judgment which has at once sobered 
 all modern descriptions of tropical lands, and made imaginative people 
 more content to stay at home — applies almost to this whole area. The 
 fairy labyrinth of ferns and palms, the festoons of climbing plants block- 
 ing the paths and scenting the forests with their resplendent flowers, the 
 gorgeous clouds of insects, the gaily-plum aged birds, the paroquets, the 
 monkey swinging from his trapeze in the shaded bowers — these are 
 unknown in Africa. Once a week you will see a palm ; once in three 
 months the monkey will cross your path ; the flowers on the whole are 
 few ; the trees are poor ; and to be honest, though the endless forest-clad 
 mountains have a sublimity of their own, and though there are tropical 
 bits of exquisite beauty along some of the mountain-streams, nowhere is 
 there anything, in grace and sweetness and strength, to compare with a 
 Highland glen. For the most part of the year these forests are jaded 
 and sun-stricken, carpeted with no moss or alchemylla or scented wood- 
 ruff, the bare trunks frescoed with few lichens, their motionless and 
 unrefreshed leaves drooping sullenly from their sapless boughs. Flowers 
 there are, small and great, in endless variety ; but there is no display of 
 
208 
 
 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
 
 flowers, no gorgeous show of blossoms in the mass. The dazzling glare 
 of the sun in the torrid zone has perhaps something to do with this 
 want of coloi -effect in tropical nature; for there is always about ten 
 minutes just after sunset, when the whole tone of the landscape changes 
 like magic, and a singular beauty steals over the scene. This is the 
 sweetest moment of the African day, and night hides only too swiftly 
 the homelike softness and repose so strangely grateful to the over- 
 stimulated eye. 
 
 Primeval Man. 
 
 Hidden awav in these endless forests, like bird's nests in a wood, in 
 
 THE VILLAGE OF OUTIRI, CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 terror of one another, and of their common foe, the slaver, are small 
 native villages ; and here in his virgin simplicity dwells primeval man, 
 without clothes, without civilization, without learning, without religion 
 — the genuine child of nature, thoughtless, careless, and contented. 
 This man is apparently quite happy ; he has, practically, no wants. One 
 stick, pointed, makes him a spear ; two sticks rubbed together, make 
 him a fire ; fifty sticks tied together, make him a house. The bark he 
 peels from them, makes his clothes ; the fruits which hang on them, form 
 
IN DARKEST AFRICA. 209 
 
 his food. It is perfectly astonishing, when one thinks of it, what nature 
 can do for the animal — man ; to see with what small capital, after all, 
 a human being can get through the world. " I once saw an African 
 buried. According to the custom of his tribe, his entire earthly posses- 
 sions — and he was an average commoner — were buried with him. Into 
 the grave, after the body, was lowered the dead man's pipe, then a rough 
 knife, then a mud bowl, and last his bow and arrows — the bow-string 
 cut through the middle, a touching symbol that his work was done. 
 This was all. Four items, as an auctioneer would say, were the whole 
 belongings, for half a century, of this human being. No man knows 
 what a man is till he has seen what a man can be without, and be withal 
 a man. That is to say, no man knows how great man is, till he has seen 
 how small he has been once. 
 
 Africa, a Nation of the Unemployed. 
 
 " The African is often blamed for being laz} T , but it is a misuse of words. 
 He does not need to work ; with so bountiful a nature around him, it 
 would be gratuitous to work. And his indolence, therefore, as it is called, 
 is just as much a part of himself as his flat nose, and as little blame- 
 worthy as slowness in a tortoise. The fact is, Africa is a nation of the 
 unemployed. This completeness, however, will be a sad drawback to 
 development. Already it is found difficult to create new wants ; and 
 when labor is required and you have already paid your man a yard of 
 calico and a string of beads, you have nothing in your possession to bribe 
 him to another hand's turn. Nothing, almost, that you have would be 
 the slightest use to him. Among the presents which I took for chiefs, I 
 was innocent enough to include a watch. I might as well have taken 
 a grand piano. For months I never looked at my own watch in that land 
 of sunshine. Besides, the mere idea of time has scarcely yet penetrated 
 the African mind, and forms no element whatever in his calculations. I 
 wanted, on one occasion, to catch the little steamer on the Shire, and 
 pleaded this as an excuse to a rather powerful chief, whom it would 
 have been dangerous to quarrel with, and who would not let me leave 
 his village. The man merely stared. The idea of any one being in a 
 hurry was not only preposterous, but inconceivable, and I might as well 
 have urged as my reason for rushing away, that the angles of a triangle 
 
 14 
 
210 
 
 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
 
 are equal to two right angles. This difference in ideas is the real 
 obstacle to African traveling, and it raises all sorts of problems in one's 
 mind as to the nature of ideas themselves. I often wished I could get 
 inside an African for an afternoon, and just see how he looked at things ; 
 for I am sure our worlds are as different as the color of our skins." 
 
 A Fine-looking People. 
 
 Talking of skins, it may be observed in passing that the highland 
 African is not a negro, nor is his skin black. It is a deep, full -toned 
 
 SPINNING, SIZING, AND WINDING OP COTTON, AT MOYUCDOUCHOU, AFRICA. 
 
 brown, something like the color of a good cigar. The whole surface is 
 diced with a delicate pattern, which gives it great richness and beauty. 
 JNo one knows exactly who these people are. They belong, of course, 
 to the great Bantu race ; but their origin is obscure, their tribal bound- 
 aries are unmapped, even their names are unknown, and their languages 
 — for there are many — are unintelligible. A fine-looking people, quiet 
 and domestic, their life-history from the cradle to the grave is of the 
 utmost simplicity. Too ill-armed to hunt, they live all but exclusively 
 on a vegetable diet. A small part of the year they depend, like the 
 monkeys, upon wild fruits and herbs; but the staple food is a small, 
 
IN DARKEST AFRICA. 211 
 
 tasteless millet-seed which they grow in gardens, crush in a mortar, and 
 stir with water into a thick porridge. Twice a day, nearly all the year 
 round, each man stuffs himself with this coarse and tasteless dough, 
 shoveling it into his mouth in handfuls. and consuming, at a sitting, a 
 pile the size of an ant-heap. 
 
 Curious Gardening. 
 
 His one occupation is to grow this millet, and his gardening is 
 a curiosity. Selecting a spot in the forest, he climbs a tree, and 
 with a small home-made axe, lops off the branches, one by one. He 
 then wades through the litter to the next tree, and hacks it to pieces 
 also, leaving the trunk standing erect. Upon all the trees within 
 a circle of thirty or forty yards in diameter his axe works similar havoc, 
 till the ground stands breast-high in leaves and branches. Next, the 
 whole is set on fire and burnt to ashes. Then, when the first rains 
 moisten the hard ground and wash the fertile constituents of the ash into 
 the soil, he attacks it with his hoe, drops in a few handfuls of millet, 
 and the year's work is over. But a few weeks off and on are required 
 for these operations, and he may then go to sleep until the rains are 
 over, assured of a crop, which never fails, which is never poor, and 
 which will last him until the rains return again. 
 
 Between the acts he does nothing but lounge and sleep ; the grinding 
 and baking are done by his wife or wives ; they work hard to prepare 
 his food, and are rewarded by having to take their own meals apart, for 
 no African would ever demean himself by eating with a woman. Apart 
 from eating, their sole occupation is to talk, and this they do unceas- 
 ingly, emphasizing their words with a marvelous wealth of gesticulation. 
 
 How to Produce Fire. 
 
 '' I often wondered how the natives produced a light when camping 
 by themselves, and at last resolved to test it. So when the usual appeal 
 was made to me for "motu" I handed them my vesta -box with a single 
 match in it. I generally struck the match for them, this being con- 
 sidered a very daring experiment, and I felt pretty sure they would 
 make a mess of their one chance. It turned out as I anticipated, and 
 when they handed back the empty box, I looked as abstracted and 
 
212 
 
 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
 
 unapproachable as possible. After a little suspense, one of them slowly 
 drew from the sewn-up monkey skin, which served for his courier-bag, a 
 small piece of wood about three inches long. With a spear-head, he cut 
 in it a round hole the size of a three-penny piece. Placing his spear- 
 blade fiat on the ground to serve as a base, he stretched over it a scrap 
 of bark-cloth torn from his girdle, and then pinned both down with the 
 perforated piece of wood, which a second native held firm in position. 
 Next he selected from among his arrows a slender stick of very hard 
 wood, inserted it vertically in the hole, and proceeded to twirl it around 
 
 VILLAGE OF BOKE, SENBGAMBIA. 
 
 with great velocity between his open palms. In less than half a minute 
 the tinder was smoking sulkily, and after a few more twirls it was ready 
 for further treatment by vigorous blowing, when it broke into active 
 flame. The fire originates, of course, in the small, soft piece of wood, 
 from which sparks fall upon the more inflammable bark-cloth at the 
 bottom of the hole." 
 
 Living Man the Commercial Currency. 
 
 The life of the native African is not all idyll. It is darkened by a 
 tragedy, whose terrors are unknown to any other people under heaven. 
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214 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
 
 craft, nor of its endless quarrels and frequent tribal wars. These minor 
 evils are lost in the shadow of a great and national wrong. Among 
 these simple and unprotected tribes, Arabs — uninvited strangers of 
 another race and nature — pour in from North and East, with the 
 deliberate purpose of making this paradise a hell. It seems the awful 
 destiny of this homeless people to spend their lives in breaking up the 
 homes of others. Wherever they go in Africa the followers of Islam are 
 the destroyers of peace, the breakers up of the patriarchal life, the 
 dissolvers of the family tie. Already they hold the whole continent 
 under one reign of terror. They have effected this in virtue of one thing 
 — they possess firearms ; and they do it for one object — ivory and slaves, 
 for these two are one. The slaves are needed to buy ivory with ; then 
 more slaves have to be stolen to carry it. So living man himself has 
 become the commercial currency of Africa. He is locomotive, he is 
 easily acquired, he is immediately negotiable. Arab encampments for 
 carrying on a wholesale trade in this terrible commodity are now estab- 
 lished all over the heart of Africa. They are usually connected with 
 wealthy Arab traders at Zanzibar and other places on the coast, and 
 communication is kept up by caravans which pass, at long intervals, 
 from one to the other. Being always large and well supplied with the 
 material of war, these caravans have at their mercy the feeble and 
 divided native tribes through which they pass, and their trail across the 
 Continent is darkened with every aggravation of tyranny and crime. 
 They come upon the scene suddenly ; they stay only long enough to 
 secure their end, and disappear only to return when a new crop has 
 arisen which is worth reaping. 
 
 Sometimes these Arab traders will actually settle for a year or two in 
 the heart of some quiet community, in the remote interior. They pre- 
 tend perfect friendship; they molest no one; they barter honestly. 
 They plant the seeds of their favorite vegetables and fruits — the Arab 
 always carries seeds with him — as if they meant to stay forever. Mean- 
 time, they buy ivory, tusk after tusk, until great piles of it are buried 
 beneath their huts, and all their barter goods are gone. Then one day, 
 suddenly, the inevitable quarrel is picked. And then follows a wholesale 
 massacre. Enough, only, are spared from the slaughter to carry the 
 ivory to the coast ; the grass huts of the village are set on fire ; the 
 Arabs strike camp ; and the slave march, worse than death, begins. 
 
WESTERN ASIA. 
 
 UKKEY in Asia is covered with memorials of the past. 
 Babylon — "that great city" — Mneveh, Asia Minor, 
 Palestine, all are comprehended under this portion 
 of the Sultan's dominions. Africa is not less inter- 
 esting, for here is Egypt, the home of so many asso- 
 ciations, and Arabia, that arid land in which sprang 
 into life, and was nurtured, the faith which proved 
 such an aid to the conquerors who adopted it. 
 Finallv the ruined nationalities on which the Otto- 
 man Empire in Europe is founded are numerous, and of bewildering 
 ethnological complexity. They" nave been crushed and they have risen 
 again, only to be seemingly effaced once more, until, as the bonds which 
 bind the Caliphate together get loosened, they spring up afresh, aided 
 by force without and fraud within, until the " Eastern Question " be- 
 comes one at the mention of which diplomatists become pale, and the 
 readers of newspapers grow awearied. 
 
 The Foundation of the Turkish Empire. 
 
 Up to the thirteenth century the term Toork was applied to a great 
 series of tribes stretching over the greater part of Asia, but which had 
 never yet been welded into one Power. Othoman was the son of the 
 chief of one of these tribes — the Oguzes — who inhabited the Steppes 
 east of the Caspian. The lad was seemingly not born under a fortunate 
 star, for a few years earlier the Mongol invasion which was setting in 
 from the northeast had swept the Oguzes before it, and scattered them 
 among the mountains of Armenia and Mesopotamia. But a handful of 
 
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WESTERN ASIA. 
 
 217 
 
 them having aided the Seljuk Sultan of Konieh agains this Khaurezmain 
 and Mongol enemies, they received a grant of land in Phrygia. tho- 
 rn an, by taking advantage of every chance, and being utterly unscrupu- 
 lous as to friend or foe, died after having advanced the little lordship 
 which he had inherited to the great kingdom of Phrygia, Bithynia and 
 the neighboring districts — to, indeed, the greater part of Asia Minor — 
 thus laying the foundation of the Turkish Empire. His successors 
 followed up his advantage, and soon gained a footing in Europe by the 
 
 RUINS OF MELAKH, ARABIA. 
 
 capture of Gallipoli, Koiridicastron, and other fortresses on that coast. 
 The tottering Greek Empire thus early (1326-1359) was beginning to 
 feel the blows which were soon to tumble it over. 
 
 The Hedjaz, in Arabia, is a district enjoying peculiar immunities from 
 the rule of the Pasha and the Kaimakan. Here, except in Jeddah and 
 other small ports, with a narrow strip of country inland, no one but 
 Moslems can live. In this holy region, wherein are the sacred cities of 
 Mecca and Medina, there is no law but the Sheriat, and though a vali 
 residing in Mecca is the nominal ruler, the real governor is the Scheriff 
 
218 WESTERN ASIA. 
 
 of that city. The spiritual head of the Mohammedans is supposed to 
 be the Sultan, but in truth the guardian of Mecca, aided by his lieuten- 
 ant in Medina, is a powerful rival to him, while in the Belad-el-Harem 
 his authority is supreme. 
 
 The Central City of All Islam. 
 
 In Mecca was born the Prophet, and one of the most sacred duties of 
 the faith which he founded is that once at least every good Moslem 
 shall make a pilgrimage to the Holy City, either in person or by proxy. 
 Otherwise, the Koran enjoins, " He or she might as well die a Jew or a 
 Christian." But this pilgrimage, though now so marked a feature in 
 Mohammedan life, was in reality an after-thought of the Prophet. Find- 
 ing that the Idolaters whom by eloquence and the sword he had won over 
 to his new faith had for ages traveled from far and near to worship the 
 Black Stone in the Kaaba, and other idols round Mecca, he shrewdly 
 turned the custom to account by ordering that in future the pilgrimage, 
 shorn of many of its Pagan forms, should be part of their fresh faith. 
 A Moslem of the highest piety will, indeed, endeavor to visit Damascus, 
 Jerusalem, Medina and Mecca ; but a journey to these four sacred places 
 is costly, and occupies so long a time that a majority of the Faithful 
 confine their pilgrimage to the latter two, and in many instances to the 
 last alone. 
 
 From every part of Islam they direct their steps thither, and as the 
 twelfth month of the Mohammedan year is the period fixed for the 
 celebration of the Mecca solemnities, distant devotees have often to set 
 out from home two, three, or four months in advance in order to don the 
 Ihram garment by the time the caravans are solemnly wending their 
 w x ay over the Hedjaz. Of late years the introduction of steamers has 
 altogether revolutionized the mode of pilgrimage, by rendering it cheaper 
 and easier than it was in days when long coast journeys had to be 
 made on foot, or weary voyages undertaken in rude dhows and buglas. 
 The "Pilgrim Trade" is now an important branch of commerce, and 
 during the autumn gives employment to a large number of vessels. 
 The assemblage on the " Eid El Akbar," or closing feast at Mima, was 
 computed to number over two hundred thousand devotees. These pil- 
 grims comprise specimens of almost every nationality which profess the 
 
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220 
 
 WESTERN ASIA. 
 
 faith of "the Prophet," and even some, like the Malays, from the British 
 territories, and the neighboring peninsula and islands, who, though con- 
 sidered by the orthodox not very strict Mohammedans, always make a 
 point of visiting Mecca, and there performing the regulation walks, runs, 
 prayers, and other rites enjoined. 
 
 "The Sick Man." 
 
 The government of Turkey is still a pure despotism. An attempt 
 was made just before the war of 1875-8 to so far yield to the pressure 
 
 VIEW OF GORI, IN THE CAUCASUS. 
 
 of European opinion as to summon a Parliament. This Assembly 
 showed some spirit, though the majority of the members w T ere mere 
 nominees of the Government, and did its will. The others protested 
 in vain, though whether the experiment would have worked well in a 
 country where the people cannot well grasp the theory of such an 
 institution is very doubtful. At all events the war put an end to it, 
 and the Sultan and Pashas continued to be the sole fountains of rule. 
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WESTERN ASIA. 
 
 221 
 
 the power of the provincial governors has been materially curbed, and 
 the people are, as a rule, reasonably comfortable. Even the Christians 
 (except in very exceptional cases, which have within late years become 
 painfully familiar to the world) are no longer treated with habitual 
 cruelty. 
 
 A Mohammedan can change his religion as he pleases, without render- 
 ing himself liable to capital punishment. Education is still at a low 
 
 CHOUCHA, TRANS-CAUCASIAN RUSSIA. 
 
 ebb in this country, though for more than thirty years schools have been 
 established, and young "efFendis," or gentlemen, frequently go to Paris 
 to complete their education. In that city they unhappily imbibe more 
 than book knowledge, and altogether the Western gloss sits badly on 
 the Eastern skin. Colleges for teaching medicine, the military art, agri- 
 culture, etc., have been established in the country itself, and newspapers, 
 in Turkish, Greek, French, Arabic, and even English, are printed and 
 lead a life as precarious as such novelties must expect, if they indulge 
 in free comments on men and things. As a rule, however, Moslems 
 learn little which is of any use to them in after life. The Harem sys- 
 
222 
 
 WESTERN ASIA. 
 
 tern acts viciously on them, for the child, at a time when he ought to 
 be laying the foundation of sound training, only absorbs impure ideas, 
 and takes the first steps toward those habits which have made the Turks 
 the scoff of a more cleanly living world. 
 
 Cities Long Ago Doomed To De- 
 struction. 
 
 All through Asia we come 
 upon the fragments of cities 
 which have long ago been 
 doomed to destruction. Among 
 the most famous of these are 
 Nineveh and Babylon, once on 
 a time occupying a large place 
 in the world's history. Nine- 
 veh, or Ninus, formerly the 
 capital of the great Assyrian 
 Empire, was situated on the 
 banks of the Tigris, opposite 
 the modern town of Mosul. It 
 is said to have been founded 
 by Nimrod, and in the period 
 of its greatest prosperity to 
 have been six miles in circum- 
 ference. In the book of Jonah 
 it is described as an "exceed- 
 ing great city of three days' 
 journey," and one " wherein 
 are more than six score thou- 
 sand persons that cannot dis- 
 cern between their right and 
 their left "(young children). It 
 was finally destroyed by the 
 Medes and Babylonians, about 625 b. c, and when, not two centuries 
 later, it was visited by Xenophon, so thoroughly had the work of destruc- 
 tion been carried on that only a few ruins remained. On the plain 
 where the city stood, the line of the walls can be traced by mounds 
 
 FOUNTAIN AT CHOUCHA, RUSSIA. 
 
WESTERN ASIA. 223 
 
 thirty feet above the surrounding level. They still enclose a consider- 
 able area in which corn is grown, and into w T hich the old gateway is yet 
 to be detected, while the traveler, as he rides through the openings, 
 once flanked by lofty towers, can recognize the latter in mounds still 
 loftier than those which mark the walls. 
 
 Asia is naturally a rich part of the world, and the Turkish part of it 
 is by no means the poorest section of a wealthy but undeveloped — or, 
 rather, retrograde — land. Mr. McCoan, who is well acquainted with 
 Asia Minor, considers that in the variety of its raw material of national 
 wealth it will compare with any country of Europe. It might, under a 
 proper system of tillage, and with the tillers aided by an enlightened 
 government, produce crops only limited in amount by the labor and 
 intelligence employed. But even at present, notwithstanding the rude 
 tillage, the gross fiscal abuses, and the want of markets for the surplus 
 not required for local consumption, the country yields in a manner which 
 might w T ell excite the envy of the hardy peasant of Western Europe, who, 
 with every advantage which good government and security for life and 
 property give, can with difficulty persuade the stubborn soil, scowled on 
 by a stern climate, to yield more than a scanty return for the most un- 
 remitting toil. Wheat, barley, maize, rice, rye, and oats are, in the order 
 stated, the staple crops. The orchards are laden with the fruits of the 
 temperate and sub-tropical regions, and in some parts of the country 
 opium, madder, colonea, and tobacco are very profitable. 
 
 Between the Oxus and the northern frontier of Persia, and as far west 
 as the Russian provinces on the other side of the Caspian, stretches the 
 Kara-Kum, or Black Sands, a desert almost unrelieved by a single fertile 
 spot. But by the wild Turkomans, or nomadic robber tribes, it w T as re- 
 garded as the most effectual barrier between them and the civilization 
 which is foreign to their ways of life. These Turkomans are for the most 
 part predatory. They cultivate a few spots on the borders of the desert, 
 where the streams which flow down from the Persian and Afghan high- 
 lands moisten the dry soil before being lost in the sand of the Kara-Kum. 
 But the main resource of these untamed Tartars is highway robbery. 
 The trader and the traveler in the vicinity of their country dread, with 
 reason, the onslaughts of these Asiatic Bedouins, and the frontier farms 
 and villages of Persia have for many years been harassed by the Turko- 
 man robbers in search of plunder and slaves. 
 
224 
 
 WESTERN ASIA. 
 
 The Merv Oasis. 
 
 The Kussians recently completely subdued the Tekkes, who, least of 
 all the Turkoman tribes, established friendly relations with the rulers of 
 the Trans-Caspian district ; this entailed the annexation of the Merv 
 
 oasis (as a private imperial domain) and its 
 capital of the same name. A railway now runs 
 to it from the Caspian. This town, like others 
 on which the traveler in Central Asia continually 
 comes amid the drifting sands, or in the oases 
 which neglect of the canals is allowing to lapse 
 into desert, half-ruined, is much more imposing 
 in a " leading article " than in its poor reality. 
 Placed, however, in the oasis of the Murghab, one 
 of the few habitable spots in an arid land, Merv 
 has always maintained a certain celebrity. Sir 
 Henrv Rawlinson considers it one of the oldest 
 capitals in the world, and historically so important 
 
 MONASTERY OF ST. NINA, ASIATIC RUSSIA. 
 
 as to require a special monograph for its adequate illustration. It lost all 
 political significance, however, in 1795, when the Amit Murad of Bok- 
 hara, not content with the submission of the town, carried off 40,000 of 
 its inhabitants to his capital, where their descendants live to the present 
 
WESTERN ASIA. 
 
 225 
 
 day in a separate quarter, and have taught the Bokharans the silk 
 industry, which they did not understand before their arrival. In 1815 
 the Khivans occupied Merv. The Bokharans soon regained possession 
 of it, but were before long compelled to surrender into the hands of the 
 Turkomans, who used it mainly as a base for their operations against 
 the Persians. There are not more than 2000 settled inhabitants in the 
 town, which is surrounded by nomad encampments of Sariks and Salons 
 in continuous succession along the banks of the Murghab. Of late 
 
 TURCOMAN VILLAGE IN THE OASIS OF MERV, ASIATIC RUSSIA. 
 
 years, however, nearly all of the Turkoman country has been annexed 
 by Russia. 
 
 Up to the year 1864, the Russian possessions in Central Asia were 
 small. But shortly prior to that date anarchy reigned in the country, 
 owing to the almost continual wars which the Khans of Bokhara, 
 Khokan and Khiva had waged with each other. The arrival of the 
 Czar upon the scene resulted in the invasion of Khokan, the occupation 
 of the city of Tashkend, now the capital of Russian Central Asiatic 
 territories, and finally, in 1867, the absorption of the entire Kh annate. 
 
 15 
 
PORTRAIT OF ZIBA KHANOUM, A PERSIAN PRINCESS. 
 
IRAN OR PERSIA. 
 
 E NOW enter a plateau five times the size of 
 Great Britain, but not quite so populous as Ire- 
 land, a land which ranks among the most 
 famous of the world, if we consider its past, but 
 which, looking from its present point of view, 
 
 Mil 1 1 'ffl&fofc, * s P erna P s one °f the poorest and least impor- 
 ^V\\ \ L Sp^ipL tant of the greater states of Asia. Nor is the 
 
 cause of this decadence difficult to define. 
 Persia is a country for which Nature has done 
 little, and for which man, therefore, must do 
 much. It is an upland, averaging 2500 feet 
 above the level of the sea. Indeed, the only level por- 
 tions are those skirting the Indian Ocean and the Persian Gulf, and the 
 southern shore of the Caspian ; but here, though the vegetation is often 
 dense, the climate is most unhealthy and relaxing. 
 
 A Waste Streaked With Green. 
 
 Leaving " Gurmsir,' 7 or the low country so called, and crossing the Elburz 
 Range, whose volcano, Mount Demavend, towers to the height of 18,469 
 feet, we come on Persia proper. This is known as Sarhadd, a land of dry 
 plateaus, often sandy, and in nearly ever case sterile, unless where irrigated 
 by the few rivers which intersect the country. Once on a time the Per- 
 sians attended to these irrigating works, and hence their soil was fertile 
 and their kingdom prosperous. But nowadays an imbecile government, 
 whose only thought seems to be to squeeze out of the people all that is 
 possible, does little, if anything, to develop the resources of the country ; 
 
 (227) 
 
228 
 
 IRAN OR PERSIA. 
 
 and consequently, unless a few more than ordinarily fertile villages are 
 to be taken as exceptions, the land of the Shah is, for the most 
 part, a waste, streaked with green oases; monuments of the industry 
 of a people from whom ages of oppression and misgovernment have not 
 altogether eradicated some of the virtues which they possess in common 
 with the other down-trodden nations of Asia. There are practically no 
 railways, and few roads worthy of the name, and hence there is a 
 scarcity of wheeled carriages. Water communication has also been 
 denied " Iran," as the country is called by the natives. The rivers on 
 the outer edge of the plateau are useful for irrigating purposes, but for 
 
 BRIDGE OF CHOUSTEE, PERSIA. 
 
 little else, while Central Persia obtains the water which moistens its 
 fields from the melting of the snows in the neighboring mountains. 
 This water is led off by canals, or underground channels. But as the 
 supply is uncertain, the snow or rain sometimes failing in the mountains, 
 famines are as frequent in Persia as in India, the main difference being, 
 that while the latter country can always rely with certainty on English 
 aid in its troubles, the former cannot build any hope on the compassion 
 or foresight of its governing classes. 
 
 As in all Mahometan countries, the Persian women are seen in public 
 only when muffled in a veil. Thus, concealing their identity, they go 
 
IRAN OR PERSIA. 229 
 
 about in perfect safety, for it would be a crime of the highest order, and 
 punishable by immediate death, for a man to attempt to get a glimpse 
 of the face so carefully hidden. Within the precincts of the harem, no 
 man save the master may enter ; a few European ladies, however, have 
 enjoyed the privilege, and among others, Madame Dieulafoy, from whose 
 photographs the accompanying engravings were made. Within the 
 harem the women, clothed in the scantiest costumes, pass their monoto- 
 nous lives in various trivial amusements. The Princess Ziba Khanoum, 
 whose portrait we present, exhibits the highest type of Persian women. 
 The Persian peasantry are, as a rule, contented and even happy. 
 They are oppressed by their local rulers, but ages of tyranny have 
 accustomed them to regard the tax-gatherer's exaction as something to 
 which all mankind are subject, and knowing nothing better, they are 
 not miserable at the thought of what they must bear. They are even 
 sometimes convinced that after all " Iran " is the favored of heaven. In 
 illustration of this Sir John Malcolm tells an anecdote of an Arab-Per- 
 sian woman who had accompanied an English family to Britain, and 
 was being questioned by her relatives in Mekran as to the country and 
 people she had visited. Were they happy? Were they rich? Was the 
 country a good one ? The country, the " ayah " replied, was a good one. 
 It was like a garden; the people, she had heard, were happy; she 
 knew they were wise, and they seemed to be rich. At this her friends 
 looked sad. Their country was not like a garden, the inhabitants were 
 not wise, and they felt that they might be richer without being any less 
 happy, and they were turning away, for the first time in their lives, 
 really discontented with their condition, when the woman remarked that 
 in " Feringhistan " there was one thing the people wanted. They had no 
 date trees ; she had not seen one in the whole country, and for more 
 than a year she had looked for nothing else. Then the Arabs were 
 happy once more, for they were certain that a country without dates 
 was miserable indeed. 
 
 Ruin and Desolation. 
 
 With a few alterations to suit local differences, one Persian city 
 might fairly stand as the type of the others. Tabriz, Kasvin, Ispahan, 
 and Chiraz have all at different times had the honor of being the Shah's 
 capital ; and at present Teheran, on the broad plain, near the southwest 
 
230 IRAN OR PERSIA. 
 
 base of Mount Demavend, is the seat of government, and the principal 
 place of residence of the Court. Teheran, when first heard of, in the 
 twelfth century, was a miserable place. The inhabitants lived in houses 
 underground, and indeed it was not until the fifteenth century that 
 they emerged from their subterranean dwellings. But in the sixteenth 
 century Chardin and other European travelers describe it as a large 
 city. At present it does not impress the visitor, and at a distance is 
 decidedly disappointing. Its black mud walls are the color of the 
 ground, so that it looks like a "confused dust-enshrouded mass," and 
 altogether very unlike the Oriental capital of the Eastern tale. Inside, 
 the appearance of things is not much more inviting. The absence of 
 shady trees makes the ill-paved, narrow streets very hot, and the w T ant 
 of any approach to a decent hotel does not mollify the traveler, dis- 
 appointed with his view of the chief city of Persia. Ispahan is not much 
 more inviting, though the climate is more agreeable. Chiraz is the 
 "city of colleges," of which there are about ten, but the education sup- 
 plied is of a very elementary character. It is now chiefly visited by 
 those who are curious to examine the magnificent ruins of Persepolis, 
 the ancient capital and at one time "the glory of the East," and the 
 pride of Darius, Xerxes and Artaxcrxes, until it was destroyed by 
 Alexander the Great. Tabriz, with its 165,000 people, as many as 
 Teheran; Meshed, "The Holy," with 60,000; Yezd, with 40,000; and 
 Hamadan, Kermanshah, Kerman, Dizful, Kasvin, Kesht, Astrabad, 
 Kashan, Burjird and Kum, all with between twenty and thirty thou- 
 sand people, are other towns of importance. It is needless describ- 
 ing them. Filthy thoroughfares, mud walls, sometimes groves of 
 trees, bad water and little of it, bare walls of houses facing the streets ; 
 the windows generally without glass, or the balconies looking into the 
 courtyards; and great caravansaries, built by speculators or "pious 
 founders," for the accommodation of travelers, are the salient features of 
 urban Persia. But over all is written ruin and desolation. New build- 
 ings stand taw T dry and out of place beside old ones that only echo the 
 past, while the dirt, the disorder, and the discomfort which seem innate 
 to the East, prevail everywhere through the land of Iran. 
 
 The younger Cyrus characterized Persia as a country where the 
 "people perish with cold at one extremity, while they are suffocated 
 
232 
 
 IRAN OR PERSIA. 
 
 with the heat at the other." This epigrammatic bit of meteorological 
 description is in the main true. As a rule, the summers are excessively 
 hot, and the winters in many parts of the country are proportionately 
 cold. The only region where the climate is comparatively equably is 
 along the shores of the Caspian. But the moderately warm summer 
 and mild winter are neutralized by the unheal thiness of the region. 
 Again, in Dashtistan — or the region of the Persian Gulf — the heat 
 of the summer is almost unbearable, but the winter and spring are 
 most enjoyable. In the interior there are greater extremes, and the 
 
 CANAL. OF EL-ACHER, AT BASSORAT, PERSIA. 
 
 winds are not unqualifiedly welcome ; for, while the northwest breezes 
 bring coolness, they also bear drought in their train. The southeast 
 gales are, on the contrary, wet, but the wetness is accompanied with 
 warmth, which makes life at that season an existence passed in a 
 vapor bath. As a rule, the spring and autumn are the best months. 
 Mr. Mounsey describes the climate of Chiraz at that season as 
 " delicious." The plain is then green, and the gardens filled with rose 
 trees and nightingales. The cherries are ripening, but the green 
 almonds are the fruit in which the Persians, who are immoderately fond 
 of such unwholesome delicacies, indulge most. Lady Sheil is quite as 
 
IRAN OR PERSIA. 233 
 
 enthusiastic about the spring. It begins about "Now Rooz," or the 
 New Year Festival — that is, on the 22d of March — and lasts until the 
 middle of May, when it becomes a great deal too hot for the enjoyment 
 of ordinary mortals. "After this, journeys are made at night, for, 
 though the nights are still cold, the weather is getting hot during the 
 day. The sudden approach and rapid advance of the spring are very 
 striking. Before the snow is well off the ground the trees burst into 
 bloom, and flowers shoot forth from the soil. At 'Now Kooz ' the snow 
 was lying in patches on the hills and in the shaded valleys, while the 
 fruit trees in the gardens were budding beautifully, and green planic 
 and flowers sprung up on the plains on every side." As the summer 
 progresses, the heat grows so intolerable in a city like Teheran that 
 every one who can afford it deserts the town for the country. 
 
 The valleys of the Elburz Mountains are favorite spots for rustication. 
 Here the Shah, with all his court, encamps, though the marquees, with 
 their retinue of servants, ministers, courtiers and soldiers to the number 
 of three or four thousand, present less the appearance of a temporary 
 camp than that of a luxurious series of canvas and silken palaces. 
 Ispahan, though hot, is not unhealthy, and the nights are comparatively 
 cool; the climate of this part of the world possesses, therefore, an 
 advantage over that of most parts of India, where the nights are often 
 as warm and oppressive as the day. In July, people sleep on the roofs 
 of their houses, for the nights are usually clear and bright, the air dry, 
 and the little dew that falls, quite harmless. By the beginning of 
 October the world of Teheran has returned to town, and in December 
 those who had to flee the city from the heat have often to complain of 
 cold. The ice forms on the pools, though it melts before noon when the 
 sun is warm, and the temperature is like that of an English spring day, 
 but by evening again the thermometer approaches the freezing point. 
 Winter is considered to end with February, when the snow, which for a 
 few weeks overlies the country, melts away, and traveling becomes 
 pleasant. 
 
 The poor are, as a rule, very poor, and the rich, though in many cases 
 of superior education to the Turks and other Mohammedans, are gener- 
 ally sensual, avaricious, and utterly without scruples, and if possessed 
 of any conscience are able to exercise a singular control over its better 
 
234 
 
 IRAN OR PERSIA. 
 
 impulses. The soil is fertile if irrigated, and can sustain most temper- 
 ate and sub-tropical crops ; and in the towns the arts of the craftsmen 
 supply what few goods enable Persia still to cany on a little foreign 
 trade. The wines of Chiraz are celebrated in Eastern poetry, but no- 
 where else in modern times, and the silk reared on the leaves of the 
 mulberry trees is entitled to the respect of even those outside of the 
 Iran border. 
 
 The Persians are not without engineering and architectural skill. The 
 curious bridge at Chouster could only have been erected under intelli- 
 gent supervision, and at great expense of time and labor. The beauti- 
 
 SCENE NEAR MESHED, PERSIA. 
 
 ful tomb of Abdel Kader, shown in our illustration, was erected in the 
 seventeenth century by Sultan Movrad IY, and is one of the best ex- 
 amples of Persian skill in building and taste in decoration. The houses, 
 as in all eastern countries, are built about a court, and present on the 
 outside the appearance of a blank wall. The court is the scene of much 
 of the household life. 
 
 A Show of Gems. 
 
 Turquoises are found in Elburz, but the mines are not developed, and 
 excepting salt made from the brine of Lake Urumiah or collected from 
 the incrustations of the plateau, a little iron, lead, copper, and coal, 
 
IRAN OR PERSIA. 
 
 235 
 
 there is hardly any mineral wealth. A contrary impression prevails, 
 owing to the notoriety which the Shah's diamonds have obtained in 
 Europe. Doubtless, the Ruler of Persia is possessed of more gems than 
 any other potentate — the Czar of Russia, perhaps, excepted — but his 
 
 collection was not made within 
 
 his own dominions. Mr. East- 
 wick, who was permitted to see 
 the monarch's treasure-house, 
 described the room as contain- 
 ing jewels to the value of six 
 or seven millions, laid out on 
 carpets at the far end of the 
 room. "The first thing that 
 struck me was the smallness 
 of the door and the steepness 
 of the stairs. It was not a nice 
 place to escape from, if one 
 tried to make off with a crown 
 two. In such a show of 
 
 or 
 
 gems as seemed to realize the 
 wonder of Aladdin's lamp, the 
 eye was too much dazzled, and 
 the memory too confused for 
 description. But I remember 
 that at the back of all was the 
 Kaianian crown, and on either 
 side of it two Persian lambskin 
 caps adorned with aigrettes of 
 diamonds. The crown itself 
 was shaped like a flower-pot, 
 with the small end open, and 
 the other end closed. On the 
 top of the crown was an uncut ruby, apparently without flaw, as big as 
 a hen's egg. In front of the crown were dresses covered with diamonds 
 and pearls, trays with necklaces of pearls and emeralds, and some hun- 
 dreds of diamond, ruby and turquoise rings. In front of these, again, 
 
 SCENE NEAR MESHED, PERSIA. 
 
i 
 
 pa 
 
 o 
 w 
 
 o 
 
IRAN OR PERSIA. 237 
 
 were gauntlets and belts covered with pearls and diamonds, and con- 
 spicuous among them the Kaianian belt, about a foot deep, weighing, 
 perhaps, eighteen pounds, and one complete mass of pearls, diamonds, 
 emeralds, and rubies. One or two scabbards of swords are said to be 
 worth a quarter of a million each." There are sapphires in this extraor- 
 dinary room as big as marbles; rubies and pearls the size of nuts ; 
 and many emeralds, varying in dimensions from half an inch square, to 
 one and three-quarter inches long, and an inch broad. In a sw^ord scab- 
 bard, which is covered with diamonds, there is not a single stone smaller 
 than the nail of a man's little finger. There are, lastly, among other treas- 
 ures, an emerald as big as a walnut, covered with the names of kings 
 who had possessed it, and turquoises so large and lovely as almost to 
 justify the plaudits w T hich the Persian poets have bestowed on them. 
 
 The Population. 
 
 The population of the country is not known with anything like accu- 
 racy, for it is not to the interest of the provincial officials to send up 
 returns which might inconveniently act as a check upon their peculations. 
 A large population would inevitably result in the Teheran officials in- 
 sisting on a large revenue. Accordingly, while the governors take care 
 that every one is taxed to the uttermost farthing, they report only a 
 moderate population as taxable, and pocket the difference. 
 
 The Shah is an absolute ruler, and the vast number of his subjects 
 are Mohammedan ; but the Armenians, Nestorians, Christians, Jews and 
 Guebres, or followers of the ancient sun-worship of the Persians, now 
 chiefly cherished by the Indian Parsees, may in all amount to 75,000 
 The Persians are a patient race, and, knowing nothing better, get along 
 reasonably well, between extortions and famines. But the Christians 
 have no rights, and the Jews are treated in the Empire of the Shah in- 
 finitely worse than they are in probably any other country in the world, 
 Morocco not excepted. It is, however, only just to say that, with the ex- 
 ception of China, in no country in Asia is so large a proportion of the 
 people possessed of the elements of education. 
 
,iH ! , ; g,^ji.,jj SfSjBpMfp^!aga jlW i J ! ! J j| j 8 !j i!| 
 
 
 
 ■V'"' ■■:.\.:«;5 ;t :;;-,fe':^-.- 
 
 NATIVES OF THIBET, CENTRAL ASIA. 
 
XXI. 
 
 THIBET, OR THE ROOF OF THE 
 
 WORLD. 
 
 PECULIAK land and a peculiar people ! Thibet, hedged 
 in by almost inaccessible mountains, but still better 
 guarded by the jealousy and inhospitality of her 
 people, contains the holy city, the chief seat of a 
 religion which numbers more votaries than either 
 that of the Christian or the Mussulman. 
 
 The greater part of the country is nearly three 
 miles above the level of the sea, the lowest valleys are 
 almost two, while some of the mountain passes through 
 which it must be entered have an altitude of more than 
 twenty thousand feet. 
 The men of Caucasian race who have crossed this Roof of the World 
 can be numbered upon the ringers, and of these only one or two, and 
 none within recent years, have penetrated to Lh'asa, the Buddhist 
 capital. The very difficulty of access to this wonderful country makes 
 it all the more interesting, while the hindrances thrown by the govern- 
 ment and the people in the way of the traveler add the flavor of 
 adventure to his storv. 
 
 A Great Table-land. 
 
 Thibet has been approached from the north, the northeast and the 
 south, but the lofty Himalayas, as well as the great vigilance of the 
 officials and the native dislike for the English, have prevented those 
 travelers who advanced from the latter direction from meeting with any 
 considerable success. Two successful attempts have recently been made 
 to cross this almost entirely unexplored country, and give to the world 
 some authentic information of its people, their manners and customs, 
 as well as of the geography and topography of the great table-land. 
 
 (239) 
 
240 
 
 THIBET, OR THE ROOF OF THE WORLD. 
 
 The earlier of these journeys was begun in 1888 by Mr. Rockhill, a 
 gentleman in the American diplomatic service in China, who, disguising 
 his nationality, crossed China, entered Thibet from the northeast, suc- 
 cessfully traversed the country, and, turning eastward, returned to 
 China ; the latest was by the noted French traveler, M. Gabriel Bonvalot, 
 who, in the autumn of 1889, entered Chinese territory from Asiatic 
 Russia, crossed Thibet somewhat west of Mr. Rockhill's path, and, turn- 
 ing southeastward entered the French colony of Tonquin. Accompany- 
 
 CALLING THE CAMELS. 
 
 ing M. Bonvalot was Prince Henry of Orleans, from whose admirable 
 photographs the accompanying engravings have been made. 
 
 Beasts of Burden. 
 
 Thibet is nominally a portion of the Chinese Empire, as is also Chinese 
 Turkestan, lying north of Thibet, and extending to the southern bound- 
 ary of the Russian territory. The government, however, is very loosely 
 organized, and as the chief influence is in the hands of the lamas, who 
 owe their first allegiance to their religious superiors at Lh'asa, the power 
 
THIBET, OR THE ROOF OF THE WORLD. 
 
 241 
 
 of the Chinese is very little felt. The beasts of burden are an active, 
 hardy breed of little horses, peculiar to the country, mules, camels, and 
 that singular native animal, the yak. M. Bonvalot's party used camels 
 to form the larger part of their caravan; these animals being par- 
 ticularly fitted for crossing the desert plateaus of Chinese Turkestan ; 
 but the camel is not specially adapted to mountain climbing, and the 
 hard work of crossing the mountains bordering Northern Thibet, 
 
 OBO AT TCHAUNGO. 
 
 together with the extremely rarefied air of those high altitudes, proved 
 entirely too much for them. 
 
 Wild camels are to be found in the Lob Nor, a district about the lake 
 of that name in the extreme south of Chinese Turkestan. In the summer 
 they go up into the mountains, but they always return to the same spots, 
 there being certain cantonments to which they are accustomed. They go 
 about in troops, one male to fifteen or sixteen females, but it is only after 
 terrific combats that the former becomes the undisputed lord of his 
 harem. It is very fatiguing and difficult to get near them, the only way 
 for the hunter being to hide near the pond on the brink of which he has 
 16 
 
242 THIBET, OR THE ROOF OF THE WORLD. 
 
 found traces. The natives are certain that these camels have always 
 been wild and are not descended from domesticated ones. " Our fore- 
 fathers and tradition," they say, " represent them as being so. Moreover, 
 a domesticated camel cannot do without man, but comes after him." 
 
 The chase and fishing form the staple industry of the inhabitants of 
 this district, though they also eke out their livelihood by the rearing of 
 stock, which they possess in great numbers. They do not till the ground, 
 but they own some fields, remote from their chief town of Abdallah, 
 which others cultivate for them, for which service they pay in kind with 
 a part of the crop and a few sheep, and altogether they are regarded as 
 rich. 
 
 The Dwellings. 
 
 The dwellings are huts, the earthen floor of which is covered in places 
 with old bits of felt, while in the centre a cavity surrounded by flat stones 
 serves as a fireplace. In the corner are sacks of corn, and this is all the 
 furniture, though on the walls, constructed of reeds, are hung long guns 
 with powder flasks. The ceiling is made of the branches of trees brought 
 from a distance, the interstices being filled with osiers, and a space is 
 often left over the hearth to let the smoke escape. Bits of cloth are 
 stretched from beam to beam to protect the ground from the droppings 
 of swallows which nest in the roof, and which are held in great respect. 
 
 The men are tall, clad in sheepskins tied around the waist with a belt, 
 fur caps, and wearing sandals made of the skins of donkeys or wild 
 camels. The forehead is narrow and the eyes more or less elongated, but 
 not raised at the corners, as is the case with the vellow race. As a rule 
 they scarcely open their eyelids ; the nose is large and usually rather 
 hooked, the lips thick and inclined to turn up, and the hair coarse and 
 scanty. They are wrinkled from their early youth, on the forehead, round 
 the eyes, under the cheeks, and at the corners of the mouth, producing 
 an air of premature age and of grimacing which makes men who are 
 otherwise rather handsome appear very ugly. 
 
 Legendary Ancestors. 
 
 We are accustomed to think of the monkey as a tropical animal, 
 but the red-haired species which inhabit northern Thibet play upon the 
 rocks on the banks of a frozen river, when the temperature at night is 
 
~» — - tt;,;. , . •— — 
 
 
 TYPICAL THIBETANS. 
 
244 THIBET, OR THE ROOF OF THE WORLD. 
 
 48°. These monkeys are the legendary ancestors of the Thibetan people. 
 One of the sacred books, the " Mani Kambum," tells how the monkey- 
 king emanated from a ray of light shot from the eye of the greatest of 
 all Bodhisattwas, and, being bound by the oath of the rive highest 
 duties to give himself to deep meditation, transported himself by super- 
 natural means to the Abode of Snow, where, sitting upon a rock, he was 
 soon plunged in profound abstraction. 
 
 Courted by a rock-ogress, and after obtaining permission, he entered 
 the married state and was blessed with six sons, who resembled their 
 father in the color of their hair, and their mother in respect of their tails, 
 and who shared the immortal powers of their father as well as the lusts 
 and passions of their mother. It sorely puzzled their father when their 
 hair fell off, their hands and feet became sensitive, and their tails 
 shriveled up and disappeared, but the duties and privileges of men being 
 explained to this ancestor of the Thibetan race, it is to be hoped that he 
 returned contented to his rock and his meditation. 
 
 Appearance and Character. 
 
 The northeastern Thibetans are of slight build, about five feet four 
 inches high, the men not taller than the women. They have round 
 heads, high, narrow foreheads, large and nearly horizontal eyes, the 
 cheek-bones prominent, the teeth strong and regular. They have little 
 hair on the face or body, and no beard, as they carefully pull it out with 
 tweezers. They are intelligent, can be depended upon to fulfill their 
 engagements, quick-tempered, domineering and greedy. They drink to 
 excess and are then quarrelsome. They hold their own in a trade, even 
 with the Chinese, with whom they find a market for wool, various kinds 
 of skins and fur, rhubarb and deer-horns. Their food consists princi- 
 pally of tea and parched or fried barley, called tsamba. They also some- 
 times indulge in vermicelli, sour milk, granulated cheese and boiled 
 mutton. The powdered tea is boiled and salt or soda added, and is par- 
 taken of by the circle of the inmates of the tent, each one drawing from 
 the recesses of his gown the little bowl, which serves him for a complete 
 service of china and also, sometimes, as a wash-bowl. A sheep's 
 paunch filled with rancid butter is also within reach, and a lump of this 
 is dropped into the bowl of hot tea, and being melted, is blown aside as 
 
THIBET, OR THE ROOF OF THE WORLD. 
 
 245 
 
 the tea is drunk. Then a handful of tsamba is put in, and the mass 
 worked into a kind of dough. The kettle is never empty, and each one 
 eats when he is hungry, and, having soiled his bowl, he licks it clean 
 and puts it back into his gown. Mutton is boiled in the tea-kettle, and 
 each takes a piece and eats it from the hand, using his sheath knife to 
 remove the last shreds of meat from the bone. Marrow-bones are al- 
 ways cracked. The Thibetans have a saying that one may judge of the 
 way a man will manage important business by seeing him pick a bone. To 
 
 THE KIN-CHA-KIANG, HEADWATERS OF THE YANG-TSE-KIANG. 
 
 remove the excessive grease from the hands they are wiped on face or 
 boots, according as one or the other seems in need of an additional layer. 
 
 The Wife the Head of the House. 
 
 Little respect is paid to chastity among these people, and marriages 
 limited to a few months or even a week, are sometimes known. Monog- 
 amy, polygamy, and polyandry prevail in different sections. Plurality 
 of husbands seems to prevail in the agricultural districts, and the reverse 
 among the nomads who depend upon their flocks. Whatever the mar- 
 riage custom, however, the wife is acquired by purchase, and seems to 
 become at once the head of the house, assuming control of most of her 
 husband's affairs, including all buying and selling. The women have a 
 
246 THIBET, OR THE ROOF OF THE WORLD. 
 
 habit of smearing their faces with thick black paste which renders them 
 exceedingly offensive to those not " to the manner born." There is a 
 difference of opinion between the women and the lamas as to the reason 
 for this custom. The women account for it by saying that the grease 
 protects the skin, while the lamas assert that the custom was introduced 
 a century ago in order to render the pretty faces of the women less 
 distracting to the monks, whose minds should be continually on higher 
 things. 
 
 Praying a Mechanical Performance. 
 
 Scattered all over Thibet are to be found obos, or heaps of stones, 
 upon some of which prayers have been engraved. They are generally 
 placed on an eminence, at one of those spots where the beasts of burden 
 are allowed to stop for breath. At such points the traveler will refresh 
 himself with a light lunch, offer his prayers, and add a stone to the 
 accumulated pile. A pole is often placed in the ground with a prayer 
 written on a piece of canvas tied to the end of it. Workmen employed 
 for the purpose, or traveling lamas, engrave prayers upon slabs of stone, 
 and deposit them, and the pile gradually assumes the proportions of a 
 monument. Many deposit their images of Buddha and of Tsong Kaba, 
 the great reformer; and small pyramids of earth are said to represent 
 chapels. Bits of carved horn, fragments of garments, horsehair tied on 
 a stick, or almost anything else, forms a proper contribution. 
 
 The village of Tchoungo owes its importance to its enormous obo, 
 round which it takes three minutes to walk at an ordinary pace. It 
 surrounds the house of a lama who may be regarded as its guardian, 
 and the natives are continually turning prayers around this pile, carefully 
 keeping it on their right side. 
 
 Praying, in Thibet, is quite a mechanical performance. The repetition 
 of the formula, om muni peine hum, is the most common form of vocal 
 prayer, and the prayer wheel provides a means facilitating this righteous 
 work. It consists of a cylinder on the axis of which are wound sheets 
 of paper bearing this formula in fine characters. The devotee must be 
 careful to turn the wheel from right to left, the sheets being wound in 
 the opposite direction. This six-syllabled prayer fills a large place in the 
 worship of the people of Thibet, and much time and money are spent in 
 reproducing it on stone or paper. 
 
248 THIBET, OR THE ROOF OF THE WORLD. 
 
 A Great Number of Monks. 
 
 The Chinese say that for every family in Thibet there are three lamas, 
 or monks, but this is certainly an exaggeration. Their numbers are, 
 however, very large; they hold nearly all the wealth of the land, much 
 of the land itself, and multitudes of serfs and bondsmen. They are by 
 no means a meek and submissive order, and the larger lamasaries are 
 almost like fortified camps, carrying on war with rival sects or lama- 
 saries, or against the encroachments of the civil authorities. 
 
 The superstitions of the people run to strange extremes. On an occa- 
 sion when prayer is to be offered for rain, travelers cannot get fresh meat 
 because the slaughter-house of the town is closed, the deity being liable 
 to offense at the shedding of blood ; the whole population is devoted to 
 prayer, and the baggage of strangers is passed over the lire for purifica- 
 tion before the porters can carry it, while men passed in the fields throw 
 a handful of earth into the air and mumble a prayer to disinfect the soil. 
 
 This elevated table-land is the source of all the mighty rivers of south- 
 ern Asia. Those which flow into the Caspian or Arabian Sea, those which 
 pour their waters into the Bay of Bengal, and those great rivers of 
 China, Yang-tse-kiang and Hoang-Ho, all have their headwaters here. 
 
 A Curious Bridge. 
 
 A curious bridge crosses the Giometchou at Sougomba. It is about 
 150 feet long, and built of poles, the piers being cribs of poles filled with 
 stones, and is perhaps, chiefly remarkable because of the rarity of such 
 structures in Thibet. 
 
 The Yang-tse-kiang or Yellow River of China flows for a great distance 
 through southern and southeastern Thibet. It is here called the Kin-cha- 
 Kiang or Blue River, is about a furlong in width and flows through a 
 valley nearly half a mile wide. It rolls along at a tremendous pace 
 over rocks and boulders, and at some points is crossed by means of flat- 
 bottomed boats. These boats are fifty feet long by nine feet in beam, 
 and are rowed by two women and two men. 
 
 In trading, the Thibetans, like other Asiatic people, use a sign lan- 
 guage. The buyer and seller join hands under their long sleeves, and con- 
 vey their respective notions of buying and selling prices by grasping 
 each other's fingers in various positions. They add and subtract by 
 
THIBET, OR THE ROOF OF THE WORLD. 240 
 
 means of their prayer beads, but are very inexpert at numbers. They 
 are great believers in astrology and fortune-telling, the shoulder-blade of 
 the sheep being a frequent implement in forecasting the future. The 
 bone is burnt, and the future is indicated by the cracks made in it by 
 the fire. 
 
 Abundance of Minerals. 
 
 Minerals abound in Thibet, but they are not mined, the people believ- 
 ing that the precious metals grow, the seed being the nuggets originally 
 springing from that distributed by their ancestral monkey-king. They 
 therefore confine their search for these metals to a little washing of river 
 deposits. They use for this purpose a little cradle formed from a log of 
 wood, a foot wide and three times as long, throwing the dirt in with 
 their hands. The gold thus obtained is sold to the Chinese. 
 
 The trade of Thibet is of importance to the Chinese, particularly as it 
 furnishes a great market for tea, which is sent into the country in 
 bricks. 
 
 The people of Thibet have come somewhat in conflict with the English 
 in India, and have a great hatred for them, and as their knowledge of 
 geography is exceedingly limited, they are very liable to assume that 
 every one not a Mongolian is an Englishman. They have, however, 
 some knowledge of the French, and M. Bonvalot and Prince Henry were 
 therefore able to traverse the country with greater ease than was Mr. 
 Rockhill, the American, who was compelled to disguise himself as a 
 Chinaman. Even the Frenchmen, however, were continually hindered 
 and harassed, though the Thibetan officials attempted to maintain the 
 forms of polite intercourse. " Let us try and arrange the business we 
 have in hand, don't let us disagree," urged one officer, who seemed to be 
 doing all he could to thwart their plans. "Two beautiful porcelain cups 
 placed together on a table look very well, but knock them together and 
 they break to pieces. Don't let us clash, don't let us clash." 
 
xxn. 
 
 AMONG THE STATELY CHIEFTAINS 
 
 OF NATIVE INDIA. 
 
 NDIA, at the present day, is a subject so interesting that 
 the title of this chapter is sufficient to introduce it, 
 and insure its welcome. 
 
 Although nearly every English family sends out a 
 relation or friend to spend some of the best years 
 of life in that vast region, still it cannot be said that 
 any considerable knowledge of those lands is at all 
 widely diffused. Few European or American trav- 
 elers have sufficient leisure for prolonged investiga- 
 tion; the opportunities of official residents are 
 usually greatly curtailed by the pressure of business, 
 and a great deal of Indian travel is for the most part performed as 
 quickly as possible, at the call of duty. 
 
 The title of the chapter indicates the chief object of the author. He 
 was comparatively indifferent to the India of railways, hotels, and tele- 
 graphs. He was bent on visiting the courts and countries ruled by 
 native princes, great and small, of all ranks and all creeds, and to see 
 for himself what are the modes of life and conditions of civilization among 
 the stately chieftains of native India. Those who are already familiar 
 with these subjects will find pleasure in recalling to memory the scenes 
 and objects described, while the reader who has no personal acquaint- 
 ance with a country as yet scarcely touched by railways, may, by the 
 aid of the excellent illustrations, accompany the traveler in imagination 
 on his Indian journey. 
 
 Perhaps the most convenient entrance to India is by way of the Suez 
 Canal Steamer to Bombay, but whatever route one takes, the journey 
 should be timed so as not to arrive in summer, for nature under the 
 
 (251) 
 
252 
 
 THE CHIEFTAINS OF INDIA. 
 
 tropics has not distributed the seasons in the manner which is so 
 familiar to us, but has divided the year into a dry season and a rainy 
 season. For eight months the sky is clear and cloudless, and the sun 
 shines without hindrance ; but, on the other hand, it rains, at intervals, 
 from the middle of June to the middle of October. During this time, 
 the rain sometimes falls in such torrents that the country is covered 
 with water ; the roads disappear or become impassable, and it is then 
 impossible to travel even short distances. Those, therefore, who come 
 to these countries as tourists ought always to arrange so as to arrive ir 
 
 ROYAL NECROPOLIS, GOLCONDA. 
 
 October, if they do not wish to have the prospect of a lengthened stay 
 in a town like Bombay. 
 
 The Island of Bombay forms part of an important, group, which, placed 
 in front of the estuary of a river, appear to form a kind of delta. These, 
 hollowed in figure, and in close proximity to one another, imprison an 
 arm of the sea along the mainland, and thus make a superb bay, of 
 which Bombay commands the entrance. 
 
 This situation has always appeared so favorable for commerce, that 
 from the most remote antiquity these islands contained important towns 
 
9.54 THE CHIEFTAINS OF INDIA. 
 
 ctnd ports, where traffic was carried on in the products of Hindostan and 
 Dekkan. The immense subterranean chambers found in Elephanta, (one 
 of these islands), which rank among the grandest remains of ancient 
 India, prove to us the importance and the wealth of these towns. We 
 can, moreover, recognize, in this group of islands, the archipelago of 
 Heptanesia, of which the geographer Arrian speaks. 
 
 A World of Peoples and Races. 
 
 A world of peoples and races of perfectly distinct types and costumes 
 are crowded together in the streets of this capital, which supplies the 
 products of Europe to two-thirds of India. It is the port of arrival 
 for all who come from Persia, from Arabia, from Afghanistan, and the 
 coast of Africa ; and from it the pilgrims from Hindostan, bound to 
 Mecca, Karbala, or Nujiff, take their departure. Besides the indigenous 
 races which still present such varieties, we see the Persian, with his high 
 cap of astrakan ; the Arab, in his biblical costume ; the Tomali negro, 
 with fine intelligent features ; the Chinese, the Burmese, and the Malay. 
 This diversity gives to the crowd a peculiar stamp, which no other town 
 in the world can present. 
 
 Baroda is the capital of the territory of one of the most powerful 
 princes in India, the Guicowar. The city is connected with the English 
 encampment by a good road, nearly two miles long, passing through 
 charming scenery. The great trees bordering it had their branches 
 mutilated, in punishment, it appears, for a crime committed by a parrot 
 which, perched on one of them, offered a terrible affront to the purple 
 robe of the prince. The intercession of the courtiers prevailed to save 
 the trees themselves. 
 
 A Magnificent Procession. 
 
 One will be fortunate if he can be in Baroda at the time of a great 
 Sowari, or procession, in which the King takes part. First come the 
 Rajah's regular troops, under the command of European officers; then 
 corps of Arabs, squadrons of Mahratta, cavalry, purdassis, field-artillery, 
 musketeers, halberdiers, gunners, mounted on dromedaries ; lastly, some 
 regiments of the Guicowar' s army. All these take at least an hour to 
 pass. Behind them comes the royal standard-bearer, on a magnificent 
 elephant painted and covered with embroidered housings. The nobles 
 
THE CHIEFTAINS OF INDIA. 25f 
 
 of the realm follow, each of them covered with gold and precious stones, 
 and mounted on a horse whose coat can be scarcely distinguished be- 
 neath the trappings, and the bridle plated with silver, and the nobles 
 are followed by the high functionaries of the realm — the ministers, the 
 governors of provinces, the chief priests, and the principal courtiers. 
 Each of these personages is mounted on a fine elephant, whose immense 
 covering of gold-fringed velvet hangs down to the ground. Some twenty 
 or more of these creatures pass by, with grave and majestic air ; it is 
 evident that the intelligent animals appreciate the richness of their 
 ornaments. Most of them have their trunks and foreheads painted in 
 fantastic designs, and bear on their heads tall crests of white feathers. 
 Each of the aforesaid dignitaries is seated, cross-legged, in a rich howdah 
 of silver ; and over his head is a magnificent parasol, the degree of itk 
 richness indicating the rank held at court by its owner. How adroitly 
 the attention has been sustained by this progressive magnificence up to 
 the king, the culminating point of the Sowari ! See him approach, pre- 
 ceded by his daughter, mounted on a superb elephant. That on which 
 the king sits is a gigantic animal. The howdah, of massive gold — a 
 present from the Queen of England — sparkles with jewels. The 
 Guicowar is seated in it, on embroidered cushions. He w T ears a red vel- 
 vet tunic, over which a profusion of magnificent jewels is spread ; his 
 turban is adorned with an aigrette of diamonds, amongst which blazes 
 the " Star of the South." Behind him sits the prime minister, in a 
 plain dress. On the foot-boards on each side of the elephant, stand four 
 men clad in elegant attire. One of them carries the hookah presented to 
 His Majesty by the Viceroy of India ; the others wave fans composed of 
 peacock's feathers. Amongst them also is the king's herald, who every 
 moment unfolds a large piece of cloth of gold, while he cries out : 
 " Scrimunt Sicar ! Khunderao Guicowar ! SenaKhas Khel! Shamshar 
 Bahadoor !" which signifies, "Behold the King of Kings, Khunderao 
 Guicowar, whose army is invincible, whose courage is indomitable ! " 
 At these words the crowd prostrate themselves until the elephant has 
 passed. The latter, completely hidden under his garments, resembles a 
 mountain of gold sparkling with diamonds. 
 
 Agra, the capital of the northwest provinces of Bengal, is one of the 
 principal cities of India, and its magnificent monuments have rendered 
 
256 
 
 THE CHIEFTAINS OF INDIA. 
 
 it celebrated throughout the whole world. Most beautiful, most wonder- 
 ful of these is the Taj, the marvel of India. It was built by the 
 Emperor Shah Jehan, as a mausoleum for the Empress Muntazi Mahal, 
 or Taj-Bibi, who died in giving 
 birth to the Princess Jehanara. 
 This woman, celebrated alike for her 
 talents and her beauty, inspired the 
 Prince with such love and admira- 
 tion that he resolved to raise to her 
 memory the most beautiful monu- 
 ment that had ever been constructed 
 by man. After a grand consultation 
 of all the architects of the East, the 
 plan of Isa Mahomed (Jesus Ma- 
 homed) was adopted. The mauso- 
 leum was commenced in the year 
 1630, and not completed until 1647 ; 
 and during those seventeen years, 
 twenty thousand workmen were em- 
 ployed. 
 
 On entering the gate we suddenly 
 find ourselves in front of the Taj, 
 which appears in all its dazzling 
 whiteness at the end of a wide, paved 
 avenue, bordered on each side with 
 tall cypress trees. This first view 
 of the Taj is most striking. Like a 
 mountain of white marble, it rises 
 mysteriously above the sombre 
 and luxuriant vegetation of the 
 garden. 
 
 The Old Capital of the Asiatic World. 
 
 The name of Delhi shines out with incomparable brilliancy in the 
 history of India, indeed, of all Asia. Around it are concentrated all the 
 glories and magnificence of that country, the echoes of which sufficed to in- 
 ebriate the European world during long centuries, and which, inflaming 
 
 BELIGIOUS BEGGAR, BENARES. 
 
THE CHIEFTAINS OF INDIA. 
 
 25; 
 
 the ardor of adventurers, launched Columbus on the track of the New 
 World, and urged Yasco di Gama, more fortunate than his rival, to face 
 all the horrors of the Cape tempests. There is but one city in the world 
 which can dispute the palm of so much glory with Delhi, and that city 
 is Rome, the capital of the old European world, as Delhi was during so 
 many centuries that of the Asiatic world. And even Kome, the Eternal 
 City, as it proudly styles itself, can scarcely measure its twenty-five 
 centuries against the haughty Indrapechta, the capital of the Aryan em- 
 
 RELIGIOUS BEGGARS, BENARES. 
 
 pire fifteen or twenty centuries before our era. While Rome presents to 
 us the spectacle of a city gradually rising until it became, through the 
 ambition of its citizens, mistress of the world, Delhi seems to have 
 played an entirely different part. Founded by invaders, who were 
 strangers to the soil of India, she was disputed and taken possession of 
 alternately by different conquerors who were attracted by the splendors 
 of the sacred peninsula ; and by a strange superstition, which is still 
 accepted at the present day, she became the palladium of India, and the 
 destinies of the whole peninsula were allied to hers. It was thus that 
 the English were never legally considered to be masters of the land until 
 their standard floated over the towers of Delhi. It is not without 
 
 17 
 
E-i 
 
THE CHIEFTAINS OF INDIA. 259 
 
 emotion that one crosses the threshold of the Imperial Palace, the noble 
 citadel of the great Moguls, so long inaccessible to vulgar mortals, and 
 which no one could approach in former times without first bowing to the 
 earth. This palace was long the wonder of the world, and the receptacle 
 of dazzling Asiatic magnificence. 
 
 Simla, which is a little more than a large village, buried in a ravine 
 of the Himalayas, becomes, during six months of the year, the capital 
 of India. As soon as the severe heat begins to be felt in the plain, all 
 the English official colony of the Bengal Presidency hastily take the 
 road leading to the fashionable sanitarium. 
 
 Benares, the Holy City. 
 
 In treating of Delhi we compared that town to ancient Rome, the 
 great capital of the European world ; and it is still to Rome, but to 
 Christian Rome, the capital of the Catholic world, that we compare 
 Benares, the holy city, the religions capital of the Brah manic and 
 Buddhist world. But whereas Christian Rome dates its true splendor 
 only as far back as ten centuries at the utmost, and at the present day 
 it maintains its sway over only two hundred millions of believers, Be- 
 nares has shone with uninterrupted splendor for more than thirty cen- 
 turies, and still has its name revered by over five hundred millions of 
 men — Brahmanists of India, and Buddhists of Ceylon, Indo-China, China 
 and Thibet. 
 
 One can enter Benares only on foot, and there is not a street in the 
 city wide enough for a carriage to pass through ; few are capable of 
 admitting an elephant, and in the greater number the crowd is so com- 
 pact that neither horse nor palanquin could circulate freely in them. 
 
 At a short distance from the suburbs, on the banks of a piece of water 
 surrounded by broad stairs, stands the great temple of Dourga Khound 
 (the fountain of Dourga), one of the most beautiful edifices in Benares. 
 Europeans generally denominate it "The Monkey's Temple." These 
 animals are, in fact, kept here in considerable numbers ; they fill the 
 yards, and cover the walls ; and at the first step you take within their 
 enclosure the grimacing groups surround and assail you in order to 
 obtain the usual offering — which means a rupee to the Brahman and 
 an ample distribution of parched corn to the quadrumana. 
 
260 
 
 THE CHIEFTAINS OF INDIA. 
 
 The Great Indian Metropolis. 
 
 When the traveler arriving direct from Europe by sea, lands at Calcutta, 
 he cannot but be vividly impressed by the first view of the great Indian 
 metropolis. Emerging from the low ground, half inundated by water, 
 which he has just crossed on landing, he suddenly perceives a stately 
 line of palaces surrounding an immense esplanade ; on all sides rise 
 columns and belfries ; enormous vessels crowd the harbor ; the busy 
 crowds press on the quays; carriages and palanquins pass backward 
 and forward in picturesque tumult ; in a word, everything reminds him 
 that he has before him one of the greatest cities in the world, the capital 
 
 THE ESPLANADE, CALCUTTA. 
 
 of an immense empire. Nor is the impression dissipated by his entry 
 into the city. He crosses squares that are worthy of London, and streets 
 containing sumptuous shops, lined with houses having the portals of 
 Greek temples. But he soon leaves all this magnificence ; the streets 
 change into muddy, dark lanes; and mean straw huts, without any 
 upper stories, replace the palaces, and extend to the horizon of the plain. 
 The population is far from presenting the picturesque variety of types 
 which render Bombay so remarkable. With the exception of some Chinese 
 and Burmese, the inhabitants nearly all belong to the races of Northern 
 India. 
 
THE CHIEFTAINS OF INDIA. 
 
 261 
 
 The inferior classes merit little notice. Ignorant and superstitious, 
 they are especially distinguished by their defects — cowardice, cunning 
 and fanaticism ; and Indians generally may account for the libelous char- 
 acter ascribed to them, by the fact that, from study of the Bengalese, 
 the erroneous conclusion has been drawn that all the nations of the vast 
 Indian Peninsula must answer to the same type. The people of Calcutta 
 are, in short, a sorry specimen of the Hindoo race ; but it is not the same 
 with the middling classes, who offer a very interesting subject for study. 
 
 VIEW OF THE CITY OP SEBINGAM, INDIA. 
 
 The life which the upper English classes lead at Calcutta is only a 
 copy of high life in London ; they dance, dine, drink tea, and pay visits, 
 tightly buttoned up in black coats, and wearing black hats, exactly as 
 they do in Belgravia. In the evening all the European colony display 
 their toilettes and their equipages on the Strand, a short promenade 
 without trees along the banks of the river. 
 
 A Bloody Custom. 
 
 The Brahman fanaticism has succeeded in stamping on the fetes a 
 character that has nothing Yedic or Buddhist, by introducing the hideous 
 butcheries of the procession of the Rattjatra. These processions take 
 place three times a year. The idol of Juggernaut is set upon a car 
 
THE CHIEFTAINS OF INDIA. 263 
 
 measuring twenty-six feet long, and as many wide, mounted on sixteen 
 wheels. This car is wood, plentifully covered with sculptures, and for 
 the ceremonies it is adorned with cloth of gold and costly stuffs. The 
 ponderous mass is set in movement by stout cables, to which thousands 
 of pilgrims harness themselves, stirred to madness by the sight of their 
 god. In the course of these processions, hundreds of wretched fanatics 
 used to carry their excitement to such lengths as to throw themselves 
 beneath the car wheels, and so get crushed, to win Paradise, which ras- 
 cally Brahmans promised as the reward of this sacrifice. 
 
 The English have now forbidden that bloody custom, and the proces- 
 sion is escorted by mounted policemen charged to watch the vicinity of 
 the car. In these circumstances the illogical character of the Hindoo is 
 well shown, its strange mingling of cowardice and rashness. A man 
 throws himself to earth before the heavy wheel ; he has made the sacri- 
 fice of his life ; he has dared without a shudder the horrible agony of 
 slow crushing, for the wheels turn with difficulty ; but an English in- 
 spector has caught sight of him ; with raised whip he springs at the 
 poor wretch, who, on sight of the bearded European, forgetting his vows 
 and his courage, hastily jumps up and hides himself, trembling, in the 
 crowd, like a school boy discovered in committing a breach of rules. 
 
o 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 < 
 
 i— i 
 
 Ph 
 <1 
 
XXIII. 
 
 CHINA, OR THE CELESTIAL EMPIRE 
 
 f^9f$L !••-*" — v^E Chinese Empire comprises that vast extent of terri- 
 ^'_ nfl^'^^U tor y ^ n S south and east from Asiatic Russia, and 
 
 north and east from India. It is very loosely or- 
 ganized, its various sections being senii-iudependent 
 and frequently rebelling against the lax government 
 of their rulers. The various districts embracing 
 the country, from the hot low flats by tho seashore 
 to the high cool uplands of Mongolia, produce every- 
 thing that can be desired for the sustenance, comfort, 
 hence the disinclination of the Chinese to have any 
 dealings, more than they can help, with the "outer barbarian," whoer 
 goods they do not require, though theirs are coveted by him. 
 
 and luxury of man 
 
 Numerous Pagodas. 
 
 No one can visit China without admiring its numerous pagodas. 
 These are erected in or near cities, often on the banks of rivers and 
 streams. They are of various kinds. Those of the first class are lofty 
 and graceful towers, consisting of seven or nine stories ; in some 
 instances, of thirteen. The towers, which are generally octagonal, 
 diminish in height and width as they ascend, and above each story there 
 is a projecting roof of tiles. These are generally glazed, and of a green 
 color; and each corner of the roof is ornamented with a bell. As a 
 rule, pagodas are built of brick, the facing being often of stone. In 
 some parts of the empire they are made of iron. The ascent from story 
 to story is made by a spiral staircase, consisting of stone steps, and con- 
 structed between the outer and inner walls, of which almost all pagodas 
 
 (265) 
 
266 
 
 CHINA, OR THE CELESTIAL EMPIRE. 
 
 consist. One of the most beautiful pagodas is that at Woo-see, a city on 
 the banks of the Grand Canal ; one of the largest is that at Soochow, 
 also on the banks of the Grand Canal. The circumference of the base 
 of this tower is about 200 feet. It consists of two walls, an outer and 
 an inner, between which the staircase winds to the summit. There are 
 nine stories, each containing within the inner wall a spacious chamber, 
 lined with limestone flags, and entered at each of its eight sides by an 
 arch. These chambers remind one of so many churches of the Holy 
 
 PAGODA IN TONKIN. 
 
 Sepulchre. In the walls there are niches which were, probably, at one 
 time, occupied by the idols of Buddha. 
 
 The origin of pagodas is still involved in more or less of obscurity, 
 although much has been said and written upon the subject. From 
 their being built so frequently on the banks of rivers or creeks, it has 
 been supposed that they w T ere designed to serve in the first instance as 
 beacons to announce the approach of invading fleets or armies. This is 
 a supposition, however, which need not be discussed. The importance 
 of building pagodas as towers sacred to Buddha was probably in the 
 
CHINA, OR THE CELESTIAL EMPIRE. 267 
 
 first instance impressed upon the minds of the Chinese by Indian 
 bonzes, who came as Buddhist missionaries to China in the early part 
 of the Christian era ; and it appears that these structures were unknown 
 in the empire until the introduction of Buddhism. 
 
 Marriages. 
 
 Marriages, among the people of China and Farther India, are all 
 arranged for young people of any pretensions to family, by their parents, 
 usually through the go-between, but sometimes directly. Negotiations 
 are entered into. There are mutual sacrifices at the ancestral altars. 
 The young man sends jewels and finery, and the maiden sends betel-nuts 
 and cigarettes. When it is agreed that the two are likely to suit one 
 another, which is settled by the old people — the young man being con- 
 sidered very naughty if he endeavors to satisfy himself by rude, vulgar, 
 personal inspection — the betrothal day is fixed upon. This is done by a 
 consideration of the respective hours and days on which the two were 
 born. A lucky time must be chosen. Then the young man goes in 
 great ceremony to the young lady's house. He prostrates himself before 
 the family altar, lays on it a red paper, stating his aspirations, and sug- 
 gesting a day for the next ceremony. Then red candles are lighted, and 
 every one drinks rice-spirit, dyed red. Between this betrothal and the 
 second formality, there are more presents exchanged, among which 
 figures prominently a black pig. This is eaten at the second ceremony ; 
 there is more burning of candles and prostrations before the altars of 
 the fair maiden's ancestry, and every one drinks all the rice-wine he can 
 carry. 
 
 Now comes the hard times for the youth. He has to go to the house 
 of his future parents-in-law and work there for his wife. It is the regu- 
 lar biblical, patriarchal business over again, excej)t that, though he may 
 have to work for years, he cannot have delivered to him any other than 
 the veritable damsel contracted for. He may not like her, but if he 
 draws back now he has to pay well for the privilege. Young Annamese 
 are wont to complain that they have a real bad time of it, and have 
 such a terror of the mother-in-law that they shun her from the moment 
 that she becomes so by law, as much as Westerners do a couple of years 
 after marriage. 
 
268 
 
 CHINA, OB THE CELESTIAL EMPIRE. 
 
 At length, however, the marriage day comes. There are more presents 
 among which must be a white goose and gander. The " marriage money," 
 usually a hundred ligatures (twenty dollars), must be delivered to the 
 girl's father. Parents who value their daughters higher are supposed to 
 draw down bad luck on the couple. Then the marriage contract is 
 drawn up on red paper. It is signed by the chief parties, by the 
 parents, and is also, in cases of respectable burgesses, furnished with the 
 village seal. There is, therefore, something more than the mere publicity 
 of the thing in the Annamese marriage rite. They are, therefore, per- 
 
 FLOATING VILLAGE, CHINA. 
 
 haps a little in advance of the Burmese and Indo-Chinese races, but 
 divorce is just as common, for all the written act of marriage. On the 
 marriage day, instead of putting on but one suit of clothes over his 
 ordinary dirty apparel, the bridegroom decks himself out in several. 
 The outermost coat has Avide sleeves much too lona; in the arm, in the 
 Celestial fashion. A young man who thinks himself very superior will 
 often substitute for the usual black silk-crape turban, a turreted head- 
 gear, something like a mitre. 
 
 The actual ceremony is very impressive. It takes place in the bride's 
 home. Candles are placed on the family altar along with the usual plate 
 
CHINA, OF THE CELESTIAL EMPIRE. 
 
 269 
 
 of betel. The girl's father delivers a speech, in which he announces to 
 his forefathers that he is marrying his daughter, Huyen-Tran (the Pearl 
 of Jet), aged so many years, to Nguu, the son of Doan-nhu-hai. He 
 invokes ancestral approbation and long life for the happy pair, and then, 
 with the young man's father, prostrates himself four times before the 
 altar. The two mothers go through the same prostrations. Then it is 
 the turn of the bride and bridegroom : but alter thev have shown due 
 regard for the ancients of the family, they have to " knock their heads " 
 before both the fathers, both the mothers, and a goodly number of their 
 
 THE MAIN STREET OF BAC NINH, TONKIN. 
 
 more elderly relations. Then the ceremony is over. All then go in pro- 
 cession to the bridegroom's house, the newly married couple at the head, 
 under festive umbrellas, the bridegroom with his two best men, the bride 
 with her two maids and the box with her trosseau. The road is barred 
 by children with a red thread, reminding one of the " gold and silver 
 cord " of Burmah. As in Burmah, its safe removal must be paid for. 
 
 The inhabitants of Tonkin are, for the most part, slight and below the 
 middle height, resembling the Chinese in their features, though of darker 
 complexion ; their figures are more lithe and elegant ; in this respect, 
 they are more like the Malays. They are possessed of much intelligence, 
 
A TONQTTIN WOMAN. 
 
CHINA, OR THE CELESTIAL EMPIRE. 
 
 271 
 
 and in diplomacy are more than a match for their Western conquerors; 
 though in the field their ignorance of modern tactics, and the fact that 
 they do not possess arms of precision, render their defeat, when opposed 
 to equal numbers of well-armed and well-led troops, a matter of certainty. 
 They are by no means destitute of courage, and, though defeated and 
 driven out of positions, will return to the charge the next day with equal 
 determination and sang-froid. Being entirely destitute of artillery, the 
 Tonkinois deserve much credit for the way in which, armed mainly with 
 bows and arrows, they have never hesitated to face the heavy cannon of 
 the French gunboats, or the repeating rifles of the French blue-jackets. 
 
 THE GREAT "WALL OF CHINA. 
 
 Although followers of Buddha, the Tonkinois are not very bigoted in 
 their religion. Women, amongst them, occupy a very inferior place, and 
 polygamy is rife, especially in the northern districts. The houses of the 
 poorer and middle classes are generally built of wood ; the majority are 
 thatched, but some few are seen with roofs neatly covered with tiles. It 
 is rare to see a solitary house ; they are generally grouped together, sur- 
 rounded with bamboo hedges, which not only serve as a protection from 
 the effects of the deadly tornadoes which devastate the country, but also 
 as a very effective obstacle against the advance of human foes. 
 
XXIV. 
 
 THE PHILIPPINES AND OTHER 
 EAST INDIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 ONE approaches a village on one of the islands of the 
 Indian Archipelago, he sees a long line of native 
 houses, built upon piles, stretching in front of him. 
 partly in the water, and with the entrances facing 
 the shore ; at the other side, and above them, wave 
 the feathery fronds of palm trees. 
 
 The main, or rather, only street in the native sea- 
 >re village, runs along the sands of the bay sometimes 
 half-a-mile, the native huts being built upon the sea- 
 side in such a fashion that, when the tide is high, they are 
 nearly surrounded with water. These huts, well thatched with 
 palm leaves, and firmly secured by rope-w T ork fastenings, have only one 
 outlet at either end. In front of each doorway, broad platforms, made 
 up raft fashion and joined together with pieces of timber, are raised on the 
 piles, the whole being, on the land side, five or six feet from the ground. 
 
 Picturesque Houses. 
 
 As the shore slopes upward between eight and ten feet above the 
 level of the flood, each house is separate from the others, yet all are so 
 closely adjoining that it is quite easy for one neighbor to pass from his 
 platform to the one next door, and so on along the whole village. Each 
 house has its own rustic ladder placed against the platform and doorway. 
 They are all substantially built, the piles being very closely placed 
 together, some straight, some twisted and forked ; all being rough, un- 
 dressed limbs and branches of gum and cotton trees. The effect of the 
 whole is decidedly picturesque. The small canoes float upon the water, 
 
 IS (273) 
 
274 THE EAST INDIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 or lie grounded between the piles when the tide is out. These canoes 
 are made from trunks of trees, and are from ten to twenty feet in length, 
 with the inside chipped and hollowed out. 
 
 Inside the houses it is always twilight, for there are no windows, and 
 as you look in at the doors — a thing the inmates do not like strangers to 
 do — you see, as soon as the eye gets accustomed to the dim obscurity, 
 that everything is clean and neat. Mothers and children are sitting or 
 reclining on the bamboo floors, with spears and shields, etc., ranged 
 along the walls, making delightful Kembrantesque pictures. 
 
 On the other side of the street are planted thick groves of palm and 
 banana trees. In these groves — or rather by the side of the street, 
 sometimes in the very centre of it — you may stumble upon little bamboo- 
 protected mounds with planks laid across, and palm leaves covering 
 them. These mounds are graves, placed opposite the houses which the 
 deceased occupied when alive. It is from these mounds that the odors 
 issue that so constantly remind the stranger of the family bereavement. 
 Long-snouted pigs, assisted in their investigations by hundreds of mon- 
 grel-looking native dogs, snort and burrow about the graves until they 
 are driven from their pastime by the ash-blackened widow, husband, son, 
 or daughter, left behind to mourn. 
 
 Funeral Ceremonies. 
 
 When a death occurs in a family, the friends assemble and lament. 
 Then they dig a hole, either under the house or in front of it. If near the 
 water, the grave is dug about two feet deep. The bottom of it is spread 
 with palm leaves, upon which the body is placed ; more leaves are 
 added, and over these twigs and plants are laid. This is the custom of 
 the Motu tribes, and along the coast. Inland, the survivors hang dead 
 bodies upon trees, and observe practices which are too horrible to be re- 
 lated. The funeral ceremonies have been described as follows : — " About 
 three hundred natives were assembled. Two men and two women carried 
 the body, which was that of a woman, out of the house to the grave, 
 which was a few feet in front of the house, and only eighteen inches 
 deep. There was a mat laid in the grave, upon which the corpse was 
 placed. The husband was then dragged out of the house in great grief 
 and, throwing himself on his dead wife, wept piteously. Her daughters 
 
THE EAST INDIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 275 
 
 and near relatives stood over the grave crying with great violence, and 
 tearing their hair and faces with their hands. The other natives stood 
 quietly looking on ; that is, with the exception of about twenty young 
 men, who were ranged in a straight line with drums in their hands, 
 beating time to a very solemn chant which they sang. After about an 
 hour of this ceremony, the relatives were removed and the body covered 
 with matting, two heavy boards of old canoes being laid on the top, so 
 that the pigs might not get at it, and so the dead was, for the time, left 
 
 VILLAGE OF MINDANAO, PHILIPPINE ISLANDS., 
 
 alone. The near relatives went into mourning, blackening their bodies 
 all over with ashes. As soon as any one dies in the village, a large drum 
 is beaten at regular intervals, something like our village bells at home." 
 A recent traveler met a boy going into the woods at sundown. His 
 body was smeared over with ashes, and in his hand was a firebrand, 
 which he was blowing to keep alight as he walked along. He looked 
 miserable in the extreme, and upon being stopped to inquire what was 
 the matter, replied that his father had recently died, and being the old- 
 est son, he was compelled to go and sleep in the woods alone every night 
 
276 
 
 THE EAST INDIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 for six months. The firebrand was to light a fire when he got there, to 
 keep away the wild beasts and ghosts. He confessed that he was 
 horribly frightened at the idea of ghosts, and he looked it. 
 
 Danger of fever lies along the seashore, and in the valley swamps; 
 but on the mountain ridges it is 
 impossible to catch malaria, 
 while the tribes to be met here, 
 like all mountaineers, are free 
 from some of the vices of the 
 lowland natives, more honest, 
 and also truthful, and generous 
 in their intercourse with stran- 
 gers. Hunters who have gone 
 up in search of game have felt 
 no insecurity when amongst 
 these hill tribes; they were ten- 
 derly looked after, and all their 
 goods guarded jealously during 
 their absence, and restored to 
 them intact on their return. 
 Furthermore, the presence of a 
 white man with firearms is re- 
 garded as a boon to be appre- 
 ciated and taken great care of. 
 Constantly in danger, as they 
 are, of surprises from hostile 
 tribes, they look upon the visitor 
 as a protection, since he is 
 dreaded by their foes. Apart, 
 therefore, from the unavoidable 
 risks which attend the ignorance 
 of language and customs, a man who trusts the natives implicitly, and 
 sets aside fear of treachery, will find that the farther inland he travels the 
 greater is his safety. 
 
 Whatever may be said against the burial customs of the natives, 
 enough cannot be told in praise of their treatment of their women, or of 
 
 
 
 
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THE EAST INDIAN ISLANDS. 277 
 
 the high standard of morality between the sexes. Before marriage, 
 woman is treated as a queen; her will is paramount, and often she 
 abuses her privileges, and behaves very badly to the humble aspirant to 
 her hand. Young men have to stand back, and wait till she shows her 
 preference, and after the happy youth is so far favored, and has then 
 shown, to the satisfaction of the family, that he is rich enough to pay 
 what they demand for the bride, he must go through a month of proba- 
 tion, obeying all the lady's whims and caprices while she is examining 
 his points critically, and studying his character. Doubtless, at times, 
 love sits in the scales and favors him during his period of probation ; but 
 the ladies seem, as a rule, to go into the contract with the sedateness 
 and method of a French courtship, except that the woman has the prin- 
 cipal "say" in the matter, and seems to calculate with a coolness and 
 acumen which seems almost incompatible with partiality or passion. 
 
 An Amusing Incident. 
 
 Here is an amusing incident which illustrates this very methodical 
 method of courtship. A youth, whom we called the "Larrikin," because 
 he was always in mischief, fell in love with one of the belles of Hanua- 
 bada; and, selecting him from all her other hibiscus-adorned suitors — 
 for the village dandies decorate their dyed and frizzled "mops" w T ith 
 hibiscus blossoms — she graciously permitted herself to be engaged to 
 him, that is, she took him on approval. According to the custom, Lar 
 rikin became a guest in the house of the maiden, ate with its inmates, 
 went out fishing with her, and made himself generally useful and agree- 
 able to the intended father-in-law. In fact, he became both a slave and 
 a prisoner in the house of his lady love ; the father going about with the 
 lovers constantly, never leaving them for an instant alone together, and 
 devoting his whole time to the task of watching over his daughter. For 
 three weeks all went fairly well, Larrikin much subdued and snubbed 
 during that interval. A splendid fellow he was, worthy of the love of 
 any maid, and as a specimen of humanity worth twenty of the girl he 
 was fawning upon, for she was undersized, and as nearly ugly as a New 
 Guinea girl of sixteen could be ; and he was just congratulating himself 
 that his troubles were nearly over, when the maiden suddenly discovered 
 a wart on his little toe, and ignominiously dismissed him from her 
 
278 THE EAST INDIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 presence, taking straightway the next best-favored rival on the same 
 terms. Poor Larrikin, for this slight and only blemish, became an out- 
 cast, without the chance of getting a wife in that village, for no other 
 girl would have him after his rejection. Jeered and scoffed at by every 
 one, wherever he appeared, he was forced to take up with the whites for 
 company; and he retaliated by playing pranks all around. He was a 
 good-tempered young Adonis, and was only humorously cynical toward 
 the scornful fair one, pretending that he did not care much about his 
 rejection, and wearing more hibiscus flowers in his hair, out of bravado; 
 but he smoked a good deal at the bau-bau, and chewed, nearly constantly, 
 the betel-nut. 
 
 When all has gone well, and in a manner satisfactory to the young 
 lady, the final ceremony takes place ; that is, the young man brings his 
 pig, and what else has been demanded as a purchase-money for his wife, 
 and a feast is held after the ceremony of blessing the two made one. 
 But the troubles of the poor bridegroom are not yet nearly over. He 
 has got the daughter, but the father has to be conciliated. He is the 
 master of the husband, who must reverence him, and bend before him 
 each time he passes, and obey all his orders, until he receives permission 
 to take home his wife, and fall into the ordinary routine of life, but even 
 after that, a quarrel will send his wife home to her parents, and more 
 presents have to be rendered up before he can have her home again, so 
 that the husband who would not be ruined, must be affable, and stand 
 always on his good behavior. 
 
 Idleness Regarded as a Vice. 
 
 The women all work, and do not consider this a hardship, for industry 
 is one of the virtues they practise, and idleness would be regarded as a 
 vice. After the little period of petty tyranny which has been described, 
 husband and wife settle down to the duties of life, rearing children, 
 accumulating property, and raising pigs. The natives are very fond of 
 pigs and dogs, and sleep with them, attending to them with quite as 
 much tenderness as they show towards their offspring. 
 
 Young girls tattoo one another by degrees until they are completely 
 covered to the waist with scroll-work; they also, when in a genial 
 mood, frizzle the locks of their young men and brothers. Only the 
 
THE EAST INDIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 279 
 
 women are tattooed or dressed, the men and boys being perfectly nude, 
 with the exception of a cord around the loins. 
 
 An Obnoxious Habit. 
 
 To strangers, the habit of betel chewing is very obnoxious. You will 
 meet old and young, male and female, with the lime calabash hung 
 about the neck, and with teeth jet black and lips blood red through this 
 indulgence. Probably, if you are in favor with some native, he will 
 present you with a nut and a bite at his pepper stick, and then, as 
 
 A VILLAGE OF THE INTERIOR 
 
 naturally as an old Scotchman may hand you his snuff-box, he will pass 
 over his little calabash, with spoon attached, this spoon most likely cut 
 from some small human bone, in order that you may help yourself to a 
 lick or two of the lime powder. They will tell you that it is good for the 
 fever. Perhaps it is ; but that it is not good for the teeth, a look at the 
 mumbling, toothless old men and women will at once convince you. 
 Yet it is astonishing how quickly the European gets accustomed to 
 betel chewing and bau-bau smoking, many of the traders presenting the 
 same appearance about the lips and teeth as the natives. 
 
280 MANILA, THE CAPITAL OF THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 
 
 The most progressive and interesting city in all of the East Indian 
 Islands is Manila, the capital of the Philippines, situated on the island 
 of Luzon. It is an old city, founded by the Spaniards in 1571. In 1645 
 it was almost destroyed by an earthquake. In 1762 a British fleet took 
 the city and held it for fifteen months ; otherwise, the Philippine Islands 
 have remained since their discovery under the dominion of Spain until 
 Manila was captured by the United States fleet, under Commodore Dewey, 
 1898. The city proper contains about 160,000 inhabitants. If its sub- 
 urbs, however, were incorporated, as are those of Chicago and other Amer- 
 ican cities, and also modern Australian towns, its population would 
 number fully 300,000 souls. Two-thirds of the people are of Malayan 
 or Indian origin ; there are some 35,000 half-breeds, by Chinese fathers 
 and native mothers ; about 10,000 full-blooded Chinese, and 5000 Euro- 
 pean residents in the city of Manila, and of the latter 4500 are Spaniards. 
 Manila is about fifteen degrees north of the equator. The winter there 
 is about as cold as our month of May in the United States, while the 
 summers are long and warm. The people do very little w T ork, and few 
 go out of doors at all from April until October. In Manila the whole 
 population rises about four A.M., and by eight o'clock the day's work is 
 done — housework, mercantile business, schools, and even military offices 
 observe these hours. Hammocks and couches are everywhere, and every- 
 one who can sleeps all day long. Sleeping is said to be reduced to a 
 science by the inhabitants. The houses are built mostly of stone with 
 very thick walls and heavy tiled roofs, and otherwise generally con- 
 structed to keep out the heat. Their windows, instead of glass, are made 
 of transparent, pearl-like shells, which abound in the oriental seas. These 
 shells admit a mellow hazy light, shutting out the glare, but letting in 
 a soft colored radiance like that of a cathedral. 
 
 The visitor who can summon energy to go about will find Manila an 
 attractive place. Everything has an antique appearance. The old walls 
 and battlements about the city, the low square houses with open courts 
 in the centre, on which all the rooms open, in which flowers are culti- 
 vated, and where the social gatherings are held, and where the family 
 eat for ten months in the year, remind one of the ancient houses and 
 customs in Palestine. 
 
XXV. 
 
 AUSTRALIA. 
 
 JANUARY, 1788, the first settlement was made in 
 Australia. On the 22d of that month there came 
 three small boats sailing north from Botany Bay, and 
 keeping almost under the shadow of those rugged 
 sandstone cliffs, until, as they rounded the South 
 Head, they left behind them the heavy swell of the 
 Pacific Ocean, and glided smoothly to the west and 
 south, over the tide-waters of Sydney Harbor. These 
 boats were the advance-guard of that fleet, consist- 
 ing of the Sirius, man-of-war, and ten other vessels, 
 which in May of the preceding year had sailed from 
 Portsmouth with the express object of founding here a new penal settle- 
 ment. 
 
 Without any delay the disembarkation was commenced, and all per- 
 sons able to work were set to clear the ground for the camp and to cut 
 wood for the buildings. The clearing of the brush was then, as it has 
 always been, a task of great difficulty. "The labor," says the Governor, 
 " which attended this necessary operation was greater than can easily 
 be imagined by those who were not spectators of it. The coast, as well 
 as the neighboring country in general, is covered with wood, and though 
 in this spot the trees stood more apart, and w T ere less encumbered with 
 underwood than in many other places, yet their magnitude was such as 
 to render not only the felling but the removal of them afterwards ex- 
 tremely difficult. By the habitual indolence of the convicts, and the 
 want of proper overseers to keep them to their duty, their labor was 
 rendered less efficient than it might have been." 
 
 (381} 
 
282 A USTRALIA. 
 
 A New Colony. 
 
 By the end of February or beginning of March, the settlement was in 
 fair progress. The public storehouses had been well begun, and although 
 the stumps of the trees had not been removed, the ground was cleared 
 over a considerable extent, and Sydney town was no longer a mere hope, 
 but had. become an accomplished fact. 
 
 Before this time, that is, very shortly after the disembarkation, several 
 of the convicts had attempted to escape. On the morning after the read- 
 ing of the formal proclamation, niue convicts were found to be missing, 
 and at various other times, owing to the want of overseers, small batches 
 of prisoners took themselves off. Being without provision, and amongst 
 hostile natives, the fugitives must soon have perished. 
 
 As to the dangers arising from the natives, many instances occurred 
 to warn the settlers. One evening a convict who had been working as 
 a laborer on the farm was brought in seriously wounded. A barbed 
 spear had entered his back bet ween the shoulders, to about the depth of 
 three inches. The account he gave of the occurrence was, that having 
 strayed beyond the limits of the farm with another man, he had sud- 
 denly felt this wound in his back, but had seen no natives. The other 
 European had immediately run away. A day or two afterwards, the 
 clothes of the missing man were found, torn, bloody, and pierced with 
 spears. 
 
 Marvelous Animals and Strange Trees. 
 
 The new colony had been begun in a strange country, seemingly con- 
 structed by the rule of contraries. It was winter, during the English 
 summer ; here all sorts of marvelous animals abounded, the kangaroo, 
 various species of opossums, and a remarkable quadruped, with head 
 and bill like a duck. Strange trees, too, the great gum trees, the 
 fragrant acacias, a wonderful nettle tree which quickly destroys horse or 
 man that runs against it, the strangely-shaped bottle tree, shown in our 
 illustration, the tea tree, and the exceedingly offensive stench tree. 
 
 The natives of Australia are black, and have curly hair, but not the 
 kinky wool of the negro. They are exceedingly strong and capable of 
 great endurance, and have been described as the ugliest and most 
 debased of the inhabitants of the earth. Thev are said to have been 
 ignorant of the use of fire, and to have built no huts. Other travelers 
 
AUSTRALIA. 
 
 283 
 
 report them as kindling fire by the friction of two sticks ; so it seems 
 likely that in different sections of 
 
 the country they differed in this 
 respect. They have wonderful 
 power of climbing trees, their toes 
 having been so developed as to 
 be extremely useful in grasping 
 rough portions of the bark. They 
 frequently eat their food raw, and 
 their mode of cooking an animal 
 is by building a fire in a hole in 
 the ground, putting in the animal, 
 and covering it with earth until 
 the fire is out, when it is regarded 
 as ready to be eaten. They go 
 entirely naked when not in con- 
 tact with the whites, but in def- 
 erence to the prejudices of their 
 civilized neighbors, they wear 
 sheepskins or blankets, or cast-off 
 clothing of the whites. Their 
 weapons are the spear, which they 
 hurl with great force by means of 
 a throw^ing-stick ; the club or 
 waddy ; and the boomerang, w T hich 
 resembles a double-edged wooden 
 sword; it is of hard wood, of a 
 bent form ; the shape is parabolic. 
 This strange weapon seems to be 
 peculiar to these people, and indi- 
 cates a higher degree of intelli- 
 gence than is show T n by many of 
 their manners and customs. When 
 thrown to a distance it strikes the 
 object aimed at and rebounds to- 
 ward the thrower, and in unskillful hands is very likely to do more harm 
 to its owner than to the object of attack. 
 
 CANNIBAL OF NORTHERN AUSTRALIA. 
 
284 
 
 AUSTRALIA. 
 
 Cannibals. 
 
 These people are cannibals, eating flesh of men, not particularly as an 
 article of food, but in celebration of their victories, or on other important 
 occasions. The women are not so numerous as the men, and as some of 
 the leading chiefs practise polygamy, it is quite difficult for a young man 
 to obtain a wife. He sets about this delightful task by simply knocking 
 down and carrying home the woman 
 whom he desires to wed, without 
 reference to any prior matrimonial 
 engagement on her part. The 
 wronged husband may resent this 
 process, but as the skulls of these 
 natives are usually thick, and a bat- 
 tle is considered as decided when 
 one combatant has been knocked 
 down, the contest is not a very 
 dangerous one. 
 
 The natives of those regions 
 adjoining the settled portions of 
 Australia have been the objects of 
 much missionary and educational 
 labor, and, not entirely in vain, but 
 in the north, where there are no 
 settlements, and where the country, 
 indeed, is very little known, they 
 are in their primitive condition. 
 
 The Principal Business of Australia. 
 
 The principal business of Austra- 
 lia, aside from mining, is the raising 
 of cattle and sheep. As a rule, the country, when first occupied, is used 
 as a cattle range, and as things are gradually got into order, sheep are 
 either wholly or in part substituted, being at first shepherded and after- 
 wards allowed to roam at large in enclosed paddocks, from a few acres 
 to many square miles in extent. Accordingly a greater degree of com- 
 fort is usually found on a sheep than on a cattle station. The term 
 "station" or "run" is a pretty comprehensive one, and may include 
 
 CANNIBALS OF NORTHEBN AUSTRALIA. 
 
A MARKET MAN IN MANILA 
 
 This type of enterprising huckster marches up and down the streets and alleys of Philippine cities crying hia 
 
 vegetables (very much as the familiar " Oldiron, rags, copper, bones and biass.' " collectors traverse 
 
 the streets of American cities) stopping at the doorways from which he may be hailed. 
 
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AUSTRALIA. 285 
 
 nearly anything, from the large country house and estate in the neigh- 
 borhood of Melbourne or Sydney, almost English in its comfort, and even 
 luxury, to the " slab" or "wattle and dab" hut far away in the back 
 country, where the pioneer squatter who has just taken up fresh land, 
 with perhaps two or three assistants and a few blacks, leads a life of 
 unceasing toil and watchfulness, and carefully tends his sheep in the 
 wilderness. Then, again, it may be either a sheep or a cattle station, 
 or a combination of the two, and the life on each of these differs con- 
 siderably from that on the others. The homestead, or "station" par 
 excellence, is generally a wooden building, large and straggling, and, in 
 parts where the heat is extreme, supported on piles driven into the 
 ground. It is usually built in the shape of a hollow square, with the 
 fourth side open, or closed only with a low fence. It is almost invariably 
 surrounded, on two or three sides at least, with a broad veranda, beneath 
 which the greater part of the "indoor" life is spent, especially during 
 the summer months. Besides this, there are generally numerous detached 
 buildings, the kitchen, bachelors' quarters, billiard, play, or lumber- 
 rooms, stables, a store, offices, men's hut, and a wool-shed, at distances 
 from the main building varying from a few yards to a mile or more. All 
 these are almost invariably of a single story. A two-storied house in 
 the bush is a veritable vara avis, and is evidence of a high degree of 
 civilization. 
 
 A Busy Life. 
 
 Life at one of these stations is by no means idle. In the morning, 
 immediately after breakfast, the horses are run in from the horse-paddock 
 into the yard — for no one in the bush will walk if he can help it; — he 
 will rather spend half a day trying to catch a horse in the paddock, 
 under a broiling sun, than walk a couple of miles. Once in the yard, 
 each man catches his horse, and having bridled and saddled him, sets 
 out on his day's work, often remaining out from daylight till eight or 
 nine at night. Only the ladies, and perhaps a man or two, who have 
 work about the place, remain at home. The rest will, in an hour's time, 
 be scattered in all directions — some riding along fences to see that they 
 are sheep or cattle proof; some off to distant paddocks, to draft sheep, 
 or to run in fresh horses for the work of the station ; some to clear out 
 water-holes, or to distribute the rock-salt for the stock. Occasionally, 
 
p. 
 
 
AUSTRALIA. 287 
 
 when " mustering " has to be done, you will see ten or a dozen mounted 
 men start off at daybreak, and see them return at nightfall with jaded 
 horses, driving before them, w r ith " a running fire of stock-whips," a mob 
 of perhaps five or six hundred cattle. These stock-whips, by-the-by, are 
 very formidable weapons in the hands of a man who knows how to use 
 them, though a " new chum " is more likely than not to cut out his own 
 eye, if he attempts to crack one. With about a foot and a half of handle, 
 and a lash from ten to sixteen feet long, they can be made to resound 
 w T ith a crack considerably louder than the report of a pistol, so that the 
 noise can be heard, under some circumstances, at the distance of a mile 
 or more, whilst on occasion the stockman can literally "cut a piece out" 
 of a refractory beast. The reader can imagine the noise that is made 
 when a dozen of these w r hips are all being cracked at once. For it is 
 the sound, and not the lash, that is chiefly relied on, the cattle fleeing 
 from the crack of the whip, far more than from its sting. 
 
 This great wool industry gives occupation, directly or indirectly, to a 
 considerable proportion of the people scattered over the length and 
 breadth of the country. In days of yore, sheep were watched by 
 shepherds, and a very dreary, lonely life the shepherd led in Australian 
 back blocks. For days and days together — nay, for weeks and months 
 ■ — he was left to the companionship of his dogs and his sheep. But 
 shepherding is now defunct. It was found cheaper to expend a great 
 deal of capital on fencing, either with timber or with wire, in order to 
 save the outlay on shepherds. Many paddocks are of enormous extent, 
 but they are securely fenced around ; and in the life of a sheep run the 
 place formerly occupied by the shepherd is now taken by the boundary 
 rider. 
 
 Our glimpses of Australia may well close with a view of Brighton, 
 an attractive suburb of Melbourne. Brighton is generally a quiet place, 
 covering a large area, but with houses somewhat sparsely scattered over 
 it. A man might still move out from a crowded suburb to Brighton to 
 enjoy "three acres and a cow." No less than five suburban railway 
 stations use the name of Brighton — surely a mark of poverty of inven- 
 tion. The parts of the Brighton district that lie farthest away from 
 the sea are much affected by market gardeners, whose carts move 
 marketwards in the night, especially of Fridays, returning laden with 
 
NEW ZEALAND. 289 
 
 stable manure on Saturday afternoons. But the time to see Brighton is 
 on a public holiday, when it is the favorite place of popular resort. The 
 beach thronged with holiday-makers is a subject for an artist. The 
 Chinaman in the foreground of the accompanying view is an Australian 
 specialty; otherwise the scene might well be laid at some English 
 watering place. By-the-by, the term " watering place " is not generally 
 used in this sense in the colony, but literally for a place where horses 
 are taken to drink. A thoughtful boy once asked his master whether 
 horses in England drank salt water, because he found in his geography 
 that the watering places were at the seaside. 
 
 New Zealand. 
 
 Captain Cook sailed from England in August, 1768, and reached Ota- 
 heite in the April of the following year. The transit of Yenus having 
 been successfully observed, he sailed south into unknown seas, and after 
 a six weeks' voyage fell in with land, which at first sight he took for 
 Terra Australis Incognita, but which was in reality the North Island of 
 New Zealand, just about the part now known as Poverty Bay. The first 
 appearance of the country was very striking. As they sailed into the 
 bay, the voyagers saw range after range of pine-clad hills, rising one 
 above the other, and behind all a chain of mountains, which appeared 
 to rise to an enormous height. As they came closer in shore, they saw 
 among the densely wooded hills many signs of human habitation, and 
 soon houses, small but neat, were seen peeping out from among the 
 foliage, and the top of one of the high cliffs which bounded the bay was 
 crowned with " Lao ri pah," or fortification, which was the subject of 
 much discussion among the strangers. That the land was thickly popu- 
 lated was evident, for the natives crowded down to the beach to obtain 
 a closer view of the strange ship that had come to their shores. They 
 were reckless and daring to a surpassing degree, for, on the Englishmen 
 attempting to land, these natives, who seemed to know no fear, vigor- 
 ously opposed them, and boldly faced the well-armed strangers, although 
 they had only their battle-axes and " merais." It was impossible to 
 come to an amicable understanding, and before the retreat to the ship 
 could be effected one of these courageous natives had to be shot. Next 
 day Cook discovered that a South Sea Islander he had with him could 
 
 19 
 
A NEW ZEALAND FAMILY. 
 
NEW ZEALAND. 291 
 
 make himself understood, and accordingly lie explained through him 
 that their errand was one of peace. 
 
 After sailing south till he reached a high headland, which is still 
 known by his name of Cape Turnagain, Cook veered round and sailed up 
 the coast once more. On his return voyage he found the natives much 
 more inclined to be friendly, coming off of their own accord in their 
 canoes, and not only trading, but even staying all night on board the 
 Endeavor. While at Tolega Bay, the Englishmen actually ventured ashore, 
 and even entered the huts of the New Zealanders, and observed them at 
 their meals. These huts, Cook says, were of slight construction, but 
 clean and neat ; and the meals of the inhabitants, as a rule, consisted of 
 fish and the fibrous roots of a fern, which were bruised and roasted. 
 There was no wild animal in the country larger than a cat, they were 
 told, and though they saw some dogs, these were kept as domestic 
 animals and used for food. There seems great probability that the now 
 extinct "moa" was then in existence, for some of the " patus" — a kind 
 of battle axe, or more correctly speaking, war club — presented to Cook by 
 the chiefs, and now in the British Museum, were adorned with tufts of 
 the feathers of this bird, showing how recent must have been its extinc- 
 tion. 
 
 These Maoris were far removed from the savages whom the voyagers 
 afterwards met in Australia and Yan Diemen's Land, for Cook mentions 
 that they had large enclosures neatly fenced with reeds and planted 
 with yams, sweet potatoes and other edible plants ; while if the deeply 
 tattooed faces of the warriors astonished and slightly horrified the ex- 
 plorers, their graceful canoes and handsome "Whares" excited their 
 wonder and admiration. The New Zealander was and is a true artist. 
 In those days his only tool was a sharp stone, and yet every implement, 
 canoe, weapon or house, was cleverly ornamented with intricate and 
 grotesque faces; and so artistic was this carving that the discoverers 
 doubted what has since been proved, that the Maoris had no other tools 
 at their command but what were show T n them. Though Captain Cook 
 suggested the colonization of New Zealand, it was not till seventy years 
 later that any steps were taken to carry out the idea. 
 
A FIJI ISLAND CHIEF. 
 
XXVI. 
 
 THE FIJI ISLANDS AND THE 
 SAMOAN ISLANDS. 
 
 HE Crown Colony of Fiji consists of over two hundred 
 and fifty islands, nearly a hundred of which are 
 inhabited, situated in the tropics between 15° and 
 22° south latitude, and 177° west and 175° east 
 longitude, the opposite meridian to that of Green- 
 wich passing through the middle of them. They 
 are dotted about over an area of two hundred miles 
 from north to south, and three hundred from east to 
 west, and are midway between New Caledonia and 
 the Tongan (or Friendly Island) group. Their esti- 
 mated area is a little over eight thousand square miles, or rather larger 
 than that of Wales. Viti Levu, the principal island, in which the 
 present capital, Suva, is situated, contains about half this area. The 
 population of the whole is estimated to be nearly 127,500, of whom 
 about 115,000 are Fijians, 5,700 Polynesians, 2,500 Asiatics, 800 half- 
 castes, and 3,500 Europeans. 
 
 A recent traveler in Fiji thus describes a visit to a native village. 
 "Round the town was a high bamboo fence, but over the entrance 
 one or two bamboos were tied at a height of about four or five feet. I 
 thought this an inconvenient sort of entrance, but was told it was to 
 insure everybody's stooping on entering, as a mark of respect to the 
 chief. We found the latter — the Roko of Nandronga is his title — and 
 the principal men of the town sitting on the ground, or on their heels; 
 on the Administrator approaching they ' tamaed ' to him. The ' tama ' 
 is a mark of respect, and varies in different parts of the colony. Here 
 
 (293) 
 
294 
 
 THE FIJI ISLANDS. 
 
 the natives give guttural noises like ' Oe, ugh,' pronounced slowly and 
 then hit their hands together — I can hardly call it clapping them — 
 striking the palm of the left hand rather slowly, and all at the same 
 time. 
 
 A Visit to a Native Village. 
 
 " The Eoko rose and shook hands, a custom to which the natives have 
 taken very kindly. Sometimes it is amusing to see them shake hands 
 
 VIEW OF APIA AND THE FRENCH MISSION, SAMOAN ISLANDS. 
 
 with one another, and also to see them dawdling down the streets at 
 Suva or Levuka, one man with his little finger linked in that of another. 
 "After the interchange of a few words we went to the Roko's house 
 and shook hands with his wife, who was lying full length on the floor 
 with her little boy beside her ; and then we all sat down on the floor, 
 or lay down, and gazed up at the roof. There are quantities of cocoa- 
 nut leaves under the mats, and on a hot day one can lie there, taking 
 no notice of anything for an hour or two, with great comfort, and at the 
 same time with the happy consciousness that he is doing the right 
 thing. One of the party conversed with the Roko, and some of the older 
 
 i 
 
THE FIJI ISLANDS. 295 
 
 men came in and sat at a respectful distance and listened. Smoking 
 goes on on these occasions, with the aid of seleukas, as they are called, 
 of native tobacco, rolled up into a piece of banana leaf, and handed to 
 you in a split reed ; one often sees a native with one or two ready in 
 advance, stuck through the hole in his ear. The house is built on a 
 very high platform of stones, eight feet above the ground, with a log 
 placed at an angle of about forty-five degrees reaching up to the en- 
 trance. There were niches cut in it for the feet, and in this case the 
 unusual help of a long pole stuck in the ground was provided, but even 
 thus one had to be careful, for a fall from near the top would be no 
 slight matter. 
 
 A Fijian's Hair a Study. 
 
 " Some of the men had their faces painted : one had all his face below 
 the eyes black, with a broad streak of black down the middle of his fore- 
 head; another appeared with his nose painted red, red spots on his 
 forehead, and the rest of his face black. Most of the men shave ; they 
 take a great deal more trouble with their hair than any other men I ever 
 met, and are very particular about polishing up their arm-rings of shell, 
 which they wear just above the elbow ; and there is a great deal of quiet 
 swagger in the way some of them walk. I was told that they shave 
 with flakes of glass, and the following petition, which I saw on a slate, 
 was translated to me : — ' Be of a good mind like unto a dove, and give 
 me a razor to shave myself with, as it hurts me to shave with glass.' 
 A Fijian's hair is a study, and one sees numerous varieties of ways of 
 dressing it. Many have huge shock heads of hair, but most carefully 
 combed, sticking out all around, and beautifully trimmed at the 
 ends. There are many colors of hair, from red to dark brown, and 
 sometimes, owing to the use of lime, two or three tints are to be seen on 
 one head. Very often you notice a man or woman with hair like a well- 
 powdered flunkey's, being plastered close to the head with lime, while 
 others have a powdered appearance." 
 
 Fijian canoes are long and very narrow, with upright sides, and per- 
 haps, a breadth of only a foot or eighteen inches, while a platform 
 stretches out on one side six or eight feet, with an outrigger, consisting 
 of a log of wood pointed at the ends. They are built alike at both 
 ends, so as to sail in either direction, and are capable of great speed. 
 
296 THE SAMOAN ISLANDS. 
 
 The Samoan Islands. 
 
 No better description of the Samoan Islands can be given than that 
 by Senator Sherman, in a speech in the United States Senate, in 1889 : 
 " The Samoan Islands, formerly called the Navigators' Islands, are situ- 
 ated in the South Sea, almost midway between San Francisco and Aus- 
 tralia, on the direct line of commercial intercourse from every part of 
 America to the Australian or Polynesian Islands and settlements. Their 
 locality commands the natural interest of many nations. In extent they 
 are comparatively insignificant, containing but about a thousand and forty- 
 eight square miles, composed of eight or ten different islands, separated 
 from each other by short distances. They are peopled by 32,500 inno- 
 cent, harmless, tractable, and good-humored natives of the Polynesian 
 race, about 1000 blacks, taken there as laborers, and about 300 for- 
 eigners, nearly all of whom are either Germans, Americans, or English, 
 occupying various commercial establishments there. These islands were 
 first explored and surveyed in a scientific way by Admiral Wilkes, in 
 his famous exploration in 1840. 
 
 On March 15, 1889, the harbor of Apia was visited by one of the 
 greatest disasters in naval history. A hurricane arose which destroyed 
 or disabled all the American and German war-ships in that harbor, and 
 fifteen merchant vessels were either stranded or sunk. 
 
 A Long-to-be-Remembered Yankee Cheer. 
 
 It is in times like this that men lose sight of their differences and re- 
 member only that they are brothers. The Samoans worked with equal 
 zeal and bravery to rescue the Germans, with whom they were at war, 
 and the Americans, whom they considered as their friends and de- 
 fenders. During the height of the storm, the British corvette " Calliope," 
 having very powerful engines, was able to let go her cable and, notwith- 
 standing the narrow entrance to the harbor, to steam out to sea. It was 
 an example of magnificent seamanship, and the American sailors, un- 
 able, by reason of their inferior engines, to follow, forgot their own immi- 
 nent danger, in sympathy and admiration. They gathered on the deck 
 of their almost sinking vessel, and sent up a Yankee cheer, which 
 reached the ears and strengthened the hearts of the brave Britons, on 
 their doubtful way to the open sea and safety. That cheer will be long 
 and well remembered in the British navy, and in the hearts of those who 
 heard it there will always be a warm place for the American seaman. 
 
XXVII. 
 
 IN SOUTH AMERICA. 
 
 MERICA and Americans are titles which we who live 
 in the northern half of the western hemisphere are 
 prone to regard as belonging especially to ourselves 
 and to our country. We have persisted in this 
 egotistic practice until even our neighbors are fre- 
 quently willing to forego their own equally good 
 claim to these names, and apply them distinctively 
 to our land and to us. But the navigator who gave us his 
 name never saw the northern continent of the new world, 
 and if any particular country could rightfully claim a special 
 right to be named for Amerigo Vespucci, that country would 
 be Brazil. South America filled a large place in the minds of the early 
 explorers of the new world, and the energetic Spaniards had founded 
 towns on its northern coast, nearly a hundred years before the English 
 effected any settlement in what is now the United States. The history 
 of the South American countries is an eventful one ; it begins, in almost 
 every case, with bloody and merciless conquest, and continues through 
 a variety of revolutions and political upheavals up to the present time. 
 But these people are no longer willing to be left behind in the progress 
 of the world ; they are disposed to pay more attention to business, and 
 to the building up of their industries ; they invite immigration and for- 
 eign capital ; they are anxious for better means of communication with 
 the rest of the world, and particularly with their great sister republic of 
 the north ; all but one were willing to enter into a treaty to abandon 
 war as a means of settling international difficulties, and substitute arbi- 
 tration in its stead, and the time seems to be at hand when the Spanish- 
 American States will assume an honorable and important position 
 among the nations of the world, 
 
 (297) 
 
298 
 
 IN SOUTH AMERICA. 
 
 In the Sub-Antarctic Zone. 
 
 "Patagon" is a Spanish word, augmentative of "Pata" a paw, and 
 therefore signifies " large-pawed/' a term applied by the early Spaniards 
 to the Indians of that region when they first beheld them with feet 
 swathed in Guanaco-skins ; Patagonia, then, is the land of the large- 
 pawed. 
 
 The story books relate that the Patagonians are of extraordinary 
 stature, and some of the tribes are so ; but they are chiefly remarkable 
 for enormous busts, and fleshy features which, laid over projecting upper 
 
 MISSION AT ORANGE BAY, CAPE HORN. 
 
 and square lower jaws gives immense breadth and solidity to the face. 
 The upper limbs are of great power and size, but the lower do not cor- 
 respond to the bulk of the trunk. Thus, seen on horseback, they appear 
 veritable Titans, an impression which inspection a-foot, although it 
 subdues, yet cannot altogether dispel, as they are undoubtedly very large 
 men, who strike the beholder rather for their extreme breadth and flesh- 
 iness, than exalted stature, which, however, not uncommonly does reach 
 six feet and upward. These huge Macropods, with hair long, dank and 
 straight, and jet-black ; dark eyes and teeth superlatively white, impress 
 one, on the whole, more as good-natured giants than savage Indians, 
 
IN SOUTH AMERICA. 299 
 
 The Athens of South America. 
 
 Buenos Ayres stretches for four miles along the right bank of the 
 mighty La Plata, and as the now acknowledged capital of Argentina 
 aspires to the title of the Athens of South America. As in all cities 
 planned by Spaniards, the streets run at right angles to one another, one 
 set parallel to the coast line, thus cutting up the site into so many 
 squares, like a chess board, each side of which measures 150 yards, and 
 many of them bear the names of Argentine heroes, or record political 
 events. Buenos Ayres covers an area of six square miles, which, 
 although the streets are usually no more than twelve yards broad, is 
 considerably more than the same number of inhabitants would occupy 
 in Western Europe. The public buildings of the city and suburbs, 
 although not remarkable for architectural beauty, are at least lofty, 
 spacious and imposing; but the best points of some of them are 
 altogether lost by virtue of the narrowness of the streets. Owing to 
 the lack of proper stone, they are built of brick, plastered, and soon 
 become covered with fungoid growth, which disfigures them and neces- 
 sitates constant color washing. The present population of the city of 
 Buenos Ayres is very cosmopolitan. The native population consists of 
 the descendants of the old Spaniards through Indian marriages. 
 
 A Perilous Subject. 
 
 It is time now to speak of the ladies, but the subject has its perils. 
 To say that the Portenas are sprightly, gay, especially brilliant at 
 repartee, fond of pleasure, fashion and the toilet, very amiable and 
 charming, strictly observant of religious duties, and exceedingly chari- 
 table, is no more than their due ; but their culture, chiefly of the exterior, 
 lies in the accomplishments, above all, in music and the study of the 
 English, French and Italian languages. It is a great pity that there 
 are no Madame Rachels here to endow the ladies with the eternal 
 bloom of youth, for at that period the figures of these ethereal 
 beings are remarkably fine and supple, their complexions lustrous and 
 their features regular; with full, flashing, dark orbs and wondrously 
 lavish silken black tresses, which no particle of grease or oil ever defiles, 
 waists of gossamer, and tiny hands and feet. As they advance in age, 
 however, they rapidly lose their form, and accept embonpoint as their lot. 
 
XXVIII. 
 
 EAST AND WEST OF THE ANDES. 
 
 Bolivia. 
 
 AMMED, as it . were, between Brazil on the north 
 and east, the Kiver Plate Republics on the south, 
 and Peru on the w T est, lies the Republic of Bolivia. 
 Rudely triangular in shape, with its centre on the 
 watershed between the Atlantic and the Pacific, 
 drained on one side by the great tributaries of the 
 Amazon and the Rio de la Plata, and on the other 
 by the shallow, half-hearted streams that fail to 
 find their way to the sea from the western slopes 
 of the Andes, it has scarcely any communication 
 with the ocean, to whose waters it contributes so 
 bounteously. On the east and south, Brazil, Uruguay, and the Argentine 
 Republic bar the way to the Atlantic ; and on the west, Peru and Chili 
 occupy the seaboard, with the exception of a short break between La 
 Chimba Bay and the Rio de Loa, which is apportioned to Bolivia. Yet 
 this slip of sea-coast is of scarcely any value to the republic of the 
 Andes, for it possesses not a port worthy of the name, and the streams 
 which run through the district west of the mountains are miserable 
 representatives of the noble rivers which, toward the north, unite to 
 swell the flood of the Madeira, and in time, the Amazon, and in the 
 south, in the shape of the Pilcomayo, Vermejo, and a score of other 
 rivers, fight their wa} 7 through the mountain valleys, to give strength to 
 the Parana, and its outlet, the Rio de la Plata, nearly 2000 miles to the 
 south. 
 
 With the centre of the country almost on the crest of the Andes or its 
 spurs, Bolivia is essentially a mountainous country, though towards the 
 
 (301) 
 
302 
 
 EAST AND WEST OF THE ANDES. 
 
 east it gradually gets flatter and flatter until it shares in the plains of 
 Southern Brazil, Uruguay and Argentina. Geographically, Bolivia is 
 really a portion of Brazil, or of the River Plate valley, to which vice- 
 royalty indeed, under the Spanish Government, it belonged. The depart- 
 ment of Atacama on the Pacific, is, however, topographically a part of 
 both Chili and Peru. It is an arid tract, full of volcanoes, and so badly 
 watered that the mules conveying freight from the little port of Cobija 
 to the interior often suffer much from thirst. Hence, though great 
 privileges are accorded to it in order to encourage merchants to import 
 
 A DANGEROUS PASS IN THE ANDES OF BOLIVIA. 
 
 goods by this route, most of them prefer to use the ports of Peru rather 
 than incur the hardships of this sterile region. As a natural result, it is 
 almost without inhabitants, except in the spots where the guano and 
 nitrate of soda deposits are found ; and of late years, the discovery of 
 the rich silver mines of Caracoles have attracted a considerable popu- 
 lation to that part of the region. These mines are from ten thousand 
 to fifteen thousand feet above the level of the sea, and hence, in a 
 region comparatively healthy. The western department of Bolivia is 
 an extensive plateau, with numerous valleys, the climate and products 
 
EAST AND WEST OF THE ANDES. 303 
 
 of which vary according to the elevation, though as a rule, they are 
 more remarkable for their mineral riches than for their vegetable prod- 
 ucts, a coarse grass on which the llamas feed being the most marked 
 feature in that department. The lower elevation to the east is the 
 greatest grain-producing region of Bolivia, and woolen and cotton manu- 
 factures have now attained some degree of perfection. From thence 
 eastward the country gets lower and lower, its climate changing with 
 every degree of longitude, until in the lowlands a tropical temperature 
 and tropical products appear. In Chuquisaca, a part of which lies in 
 the elevated regions, there are found all the products of temperate regions 
 as well as rice and vines, while cattle and horses, which cannot live ir 
 the Upper Andes, flourish; and as the tributaries of Paraguay are 
 approached, forests of fine timber cover great portions of this department 
 and the neighboring one of Tarija. The lowlands of the east yield 
 tropical products, and interspersed with much pasture land possess con- 
 siderable forests containing valuable timber, though, as a rule, the 
 climate is damp, hot, and, where there are swamps, very unhealthy. 
 
 Peru. 
 
 Most countries strike the traveler who sees them for the first 
 time, as something very different from the ideal which he had formed 
 regarding them. Peru is especially disappointing. The first aspect of 
 the country, to one approaching it from either the north or south, is a 
 long range of "sandy or rocky shores, with scarcely a sign of vegetation, 
 reminding the traveler of the countries bordering on the Red Sea, and 
 yet, every now and then, where streams descend from the snow-covered 
 mountains, there are valleys of surprising fertility, whose products can 
 only be limited by the amount of labor procurable and the extent of 
 irrigation. Still, as no rain falls on the coast, even the most verdant 
 spots have a dusty and dry look." A walk through Lima, or any large 
 Peruvian town, must impress the traveler with the belief that the 
 population of the country is as varied as its physical features. Black 
 men and brown jostle each other, and in some localities the yellow almond- 
 eyed Mongol seems as numerous as the rather swarthy Caucasian. The 
 number of the Indians can only be guessed at, but it is known that the 
 whites bear to the other races but an insignificant proportion. 
 
OUITOTOS INDIANS. 
 
XXIX. 
 
 BRAZIL. 
 
 HE Eepublic of Brazil, literally the land of the "live 
 coals," occupies three-sevenths of the South American 
 continent, and covers 3,287,964 square miles of con- 
 tiguous territory, a greater extent than that directly 
 under any government except Eussia and the United 
 States, though, of course, indirectly, England covers 
 an infinitely greater portion of the world, if India be 
 taken into account. The territory is well-watered, 
 the four great fluvial basins being those of the Amazon, 
 the Tocantins, the Parana, and the Sao Francisco. The 
 Amazon and its tributaries drain nearly 2,500,000 square miles, or more 
 than a third part of South America, including about one-fourth the area 
 of Brazil, and it has a course through the republic of nearly 2300 miles. 
 Physically, as well as politically and socially, Brazil is in many 
 respects widely different from the other parts of South America. It is, 
 in the first place, the largest political division of that part of the conti- 
 nent. It is physically remarkable in so far that it is exempt from the 
 volcanoes and earthquakes which are so familiar to the regions lying 
 north of it, and it is equally free from those long and widespread 
 droughts which make, at times, so much of South America little better 
 than a desert. Moist winds always blow from the Atlantic, hence most 
 of the country yields rich harvests to the agriculturist, though some 
 parts of the vast republic are arid, and unfavorable to vegetation. Its 
 rivers, moreover, though greater than those of the rest of the continent, 
 are yet, in some cases, not suited for the purpose of commerce. With 
 the exception of the Amazon, most of the Brazilian rivers are impeded 
 by shallows and cataracts, and, moreover, the best of these do not flow 
 
 20 (305) 
 
306 
 
 BRAZIL. 
 
 into the ocean direct, but as tributaries of other rivers. The humid 
 atmosphere causes a luxuriant vegetation, and these two combined make 
 the ordinary roads all but impassable, so that with all its teeming riches, 
 the vast republic is not so well supplied with means of reaching the 
 interior as some other parts of the continent less well-watered, and 
 poorer in resources. 
 
 The Plant and Animal Life. 
 
 The plant and animal life of Brazil is remarkably luxuriant — perhaps 
 the most luxuriant in the world. Prof. Agassiz reports having seen one 
 
 A FARM ON THE RIO DAULE. 
 
 hundred and seventeen different kinds of valuable woods cut from a piece 
 of land not half a mile square. The chief ornament of the forests is the 
 palm, represented by from three hundred to four hundred species, which 
 supply the Indians with all they need in this life, including food, drink, 
 raiment, shelter, weapons, tools, medicines, etc. 
 
 The chief agricultural products are coffee, sugar, rice, cocoa, cotton, 
 tobacco and herva-mate, and corn, wheat, and oats yield enormous 
 returns to the husbandman, but have not yet become articles of export. 
 Fruits are most abundant, and include those of nearly all climates. 
 
XXX. 
 
 VENEZUELA AND HER 
 NEIGHBORS. 
 
 UITO, the capital of Ecuador, is one of the 
 most remarkable cities in the world, in so far 
 that it is situated at a height of 9492 feet above 
 the sea. Here the climate the whole year round 
 is one perpetual spring. The scenery of the 
 snow-capped mountains in the vicinity is magnifi- 
 cent, and there is no more charming region in the 
 world than the lovely gardened valley of Chillo, to 
 the south of the city. The best houses are built 
 of stone ; the others of adobe, or sun-dried brick, roofed 
 with tiles. Quito is, moreover, a most religious city. Convents, mon- 
 asteries, and churches abound, and the cathedral is one of the finest of 
 those in the northern part of South America. In 1859, a great earth- 
 quake nearly destroyed the town. But it has now recovered from 
 this disaster, and has at present a population numbering about 
 80,000. Artificial means of communication are still, for the most part, 
 in a very primitive condition, though few countries have so little reason 
 to be content with the natural highways by land or water. Many of the 
 roads, even between important centres of population, are mere mule- 
 tracks, altogether impassable in bad weather, it may be for weeks or 
 months at a time, while the violent torrents, which have so frequently 
 to be crossed, often present nothing better than more or less elaborate 
 bridges of rope similar to the jhuler or zampur of the Kashmirians. 
 Wheeled conveyances are almost unknown, especially in the inland 
 districts, the transport of goods of every description being effected by 
 
 (307) 
 
308 
 
 VENEZUELA AND HER NEIGHBORS. 
 
 porters or mules. The first carriage was introduced into Quito in 1859, 
 and the owner had to pay a tax for his innovation. 
 
 Venezuela. 
 
 Venezuela is entirely tropical, and is misnamed. It has nothing at 
 
 all of Venice about 
 it, and even if it 
 had, is not "little 
 Venice," as its 
 name signifies, for 
 a region full of 
 piled-np mountains 
 as great as the Alps, 
 containing forests 
 larger than France, 
 steppes as great as 
 those of Gobi, and 
 an area altogether 
 four times that of 
 Prussia, can have 
 1PN| - y | little in common 
 
 with the pictur- 
 esque city on the 
 Adriatic. But like 
 many other designa- 
 tions, that of Ven- 
 ezuela originated in 
 a mistake. The 
 Conquis tad ores, 
 when they first 
 visited it, found the 
 Indians of the shal- 
 low "Lake" of 
 
 VENEZUELAN GOLD FIELDS, -\/r •, -i • • 
 
 Maracaibo living in 
 "lake dwellings " — huts built on poles in the water. This suggested a 
 likeness to Venice, and hence the name and the misnomer. 
 
ENTRANCE TO THE PUBLIC GROUNDS. HAVANA, CUBA 
 
 MAGNIFICENT INDIAN STATUE IN THE PRAOO, HAVANA, CUBA 
 
VENEZUELA AND HER NEIGHBORS. 309 
 
 The gold mines of the Yuruari, in the Caratel district, yield consider- 
 able amounts of the precious metal, both from alluvial and quartz 
 mines. The appearance of the country is flat in the extreme. Near 
 the mouth of the river the forest seems to rise almost out of the 
 water, so little is it elevated above the level of the bed. Here there 
 are scarcely any open spaces, dense forests being the rule, and llanos 
 the exception. Birds are frequent in this primeval jungle, the com- 
 monest being a species of kingfisher, called chequaku by the natives, 
 while the scarlet ibis is a frequent object by the water's edge. 
 A few Guarano Indians have their homes in the unhealthy delta, and 
 slender-looking houses their homes are. "A roof of thatch, supported 
 by four or six upright poles, constitutes the dwelling-place of the 
 redskins. Here they sling their hammocks, on which they lounge by 
 day and sleep at night. They cultivate a little sugar-cane, and a few 
 plantains, fish, or they sit in their canoes and ' loaf ' about, without any 
 other settled occupation. Their clothing is most scanty — nothing more 
 than a few square inches of calico fastened by a string around the 
 waist. A yard or two of calico, and a ball of string would furnish the 
 clothing of an entire family. Their personal appearance is not pre- 
 possessing ; the skin is of a reddish-brown color, the cheek-bones pro- 
 jecting, the nose aquiline, and the hair black and straight." There is 
 nothing except these Indian hamlets and a few plantations to interrupt 
 the serried mass of forest, on each side of the river, and the laborers who 
 turn out to see the steamer pass, or the few boats making their way up 
 and down the current, are about the only objects connected with man 
 to show that an attempt has ever been made to " spoil " Guayana. 
 Higher up the river, towns begin to appear — Barrancas, with a wooden 
 cross in front of the water's edge, and behind a few wooden houses and 
 palm-trees, Guayana, Yieja, La Tablas, and higher up, Angostura, or 
 Ciudad Bolivar, the Capital of the province. Still, the scenery is not 
 striking ; low hills bound the view, some showing grassy slopes, with a 
 few trees, and others covered with forests; but the river itself is a 
 magnificent stream, muddy, it is true, but a mile or two in width, and 
 impressive from its magnitude, if not from the beauty of its banks. 
 Ciudad Bolivar is not a place to haunt the memory, though for Guayana 
 it is an important town. 
 
MAXIMO GOMEZ, 
 
 General-in-Chief of the Cuban Army. 
 
 LATE JOSE ANTONIO MACEO, 
 Lieutenant-General of the Cuban Army, 
 
 XXXI. 
 
 CUBA AND THE CUBAN WAR. 
 
 XJBA, the largest of the Antilles, and the most important 
 transmarine possession of Spain, has a length of rather more 
 than 750 miles, and an average width of 50 miles, its area 
 being about 45,700 square miles. The surface is mountain- 
 ous at the southeastern coast, where the mountains rise in some places 
 to an elevation of 8000 feet. What remains of the country, although 
 undulating, consists chiefly of well-watered plains, which everywhere 
 support a luxuriant vegetation. Earthquakes are frequent. The culti- 
 vated portions of Cuba produce in abundance sugar, tobacco, maize, rice, 
 yams, bananas, coffee, and all the products of the tropics ; while in the 
 districts left in a state of nature are reared countless herds of cattle. 
 Sugar is, however, the chief product of the island. 
 
 The exportation of tobacco is a large item of the exports of Cuba. 
 The chief imports are flour, salted fish, manufactured goods, hardware 
 and machinery. 
 
 By far the most important city in the West Indies is Havana, the 
 capital of Cuba. It has a population of nearly half a million. It stands 
 
 (310) 
 
CUBA AND THE CUBAN WAR. 
 
 311 
 
 on the west side of the entrance to a magnificent harbor, capable of 
 holding 1000 vessels, which may anchor alongside the quays. The 
 principal buildings, which are built entirely of stone, are the cathedral, 
 
 the government 
 house, general 
 post-office, etc., 
 and 90 male and 
 66 female schools, 
 and a university 
 and law school. 
 
 The struggle in 
 Cuba comes nearer 
 "home" to us in 
 every sense of the 
 word. There are 
 few Americans, 
 indeed, whose 
 warmest sympa- 
 thies do not go 
 out to those gallant 
 patriots struggling 
 to throw off the 
 galling yoke of one 
 of the most tvran- 
 nical governments 
 that ever devas- 
 tated any land. 
 The war for inde- 
 pendence in Cuba 
 resembles in many 
 respects the suffer- 
 ings, hardships and 
 sacrifices of our own forefathers in the dark days of the Revolution. The 
 atrocious rule of Spain in America, where she once overshadowed all the 
 other nations, has caused her colonies to writhe from her grasp one by one, 
 until the "Queen of the Antilles" is the only one left, and that sooner or 
 later she, too, will be free, is one of the absolute certainties of the future. 
 
 DARING ATTACK BY THE PATRIOTS OF CUBA UPON A PORT 
 
 NEAR VUELTAS. 
 
312 CUBA AND THE CUBAN WAR. 
 
 For three years Cuba struggled alone against her merciless foes, until 
 finally in 1898, when it became apparent that Spain could not subdue 
 the revolutionists and that her policy was to depopulate the island by 
 starvation, the United States Government demanded of Spain that her 
 troops be withdrawn and that the Island of Cuba be given its freedom. 
 Spain refused, and on April 21st war was formally declared, the result 
 of which was the defeat of Spain and the liberation of Cuba from the 
 galling yoke which had oppressed her for four hundred years. 
 
 Historical. Cuba was discovered by Columbus in 1492, and twenty 
 years later was colonized by the Spaniards from San Domingo. The 
 native race found by the Spaniards were timid, peace-loving, and defense- 
 less, not having even such rude weapons as bows and arrows. They 
 were at once subjugated by the invaders and reduced to slavery, and 
 under the cruel treatment of their tyrannical task-masters that part of 
 the race which was not amalgamated was extinguished. Spain then 
 imported negro slaves from South Africa, and the mixture of these and 
 the remnant of the Indians with the Spanish masters and their descen- 
 dants produced the typical Cuban of the present. It is true that the 
 pure negro race introduced by slavery has multiplied rapidly, but it is 
 erroneous to suppose that it predominates in Cuba. Just before the 
 revolution of 1895 it was estimated that there were less than 500,000 
 blacks on the island, while there were more than 1,000,000 who called 
 themselves whites, and 50,000 Chinese. 
 
 Climate and Topography. The climate of Cuba should make it a favor- 
 ite resort for invalids and a most charming home for those in health. 
 There is no mist there, as in the Sandwich and other islands. The 
 atmosphere is very clear, the sun is seldom obscured, and the appearance 
 of the stars at night is so brilliant that Frederika Bremer, the Swedish 
 writer, declared "There could not be more beautiful nights in Paradise." 
 The coast-line of the island is low and flat, and difficult of approach on 
 account of the coral reefs, but Cuba has more fine harbors than any other 
 island of its size in the world. The interior of the island is mountainous, 
 and in this section it is always pleasantly cool at night, and not so op- 
 pressive in the daytime as it is in New York and Pennsylvania in the 
 hottest summer weather. A more ideal winter and summer home or in- 
 valids' resort, under proper sanitary conditions, could hardly be found 
 
CUBA AND THE CUBAN WAR. 313 
 
 than may be had in the mountainous regions of Cuba. In fact, under 
 present conditions, notwithstanding the prevalence of yellow fever in the 
 seacoast cities and towns, the greater part of Cuba is said to be normally 
 a very healthy place. The temperature seldom rises above eighty de- 
 grees, while the average for the year is seventy-seven, and at no place 
 except in extreme mountainous altitudes is it ever cold enough for frost. 
 
 Manners and Customs. On entering a Cuban city, particularly Havana, 
 the visitor is struck with the narrowness of the streets and an almost 
 utter lack of sidewalks. The houses in the main are low, built of cochina 
 stone, a coral formation so soft that it is cut with saws when first quar- 
 ried, but grows hard with age and exposure. It is also said there are 
 very few houses that contain a fireplace, and glass windows are not used. 
 Instead of these the openings are fitted with crossed iron bars, and there 
 is manifested very little desire on the part of the inhabitants for privacy. 
 The houses are built usually right on the street, and through the bars 
 it is quite the fashion for the lover from without to stand and talk with 
 his senorita within, while both mingle cigarette smoke with love-talk. 
 The most respectable women, and even little girls, smoke cigarettes and 
 use much rice powder on their faces. The common workingwoinan is 
 often seen smoking a very large strong black cigar, in general use among 
 the men. Cubans are also very fond of music and they all love to dance. 
 The money of those who live in the city is spent chiefly for dancing, lot- 
 tery tickets, the opera, theatre, bull-fights and cock-fights. The last- 
 named sport is usually enjoyed after church on Sunday morning. 
 
 Laziness is easily indulged. The tropical temperature brings forth 
 everything in abundance with little labor, and the whole population dis- 
 charges what tasks it cannot get out of with the least work possible. 
 Even beggars often ride on horseback and smoke cigars as they solicit 
 alms. The climate enables one to dispense with all clothing except 
 what decency requires — and that is very little in Cuba. The children 
 of the poor are not expected to wear clothes at all until quite advanced 
 in years. One suit of cheap linen for a man and two dresses for a 
 woman quite suffice for the whole year, while a cluster of cocoanut-trees 
 frequently furnish ample shelter for the country family; thus even the 
 house may be dispensed with. 
 
 The milkman in the towns is another picturesque figure to the visitor. 
 
314 CUBA AND THE CUBAN WAR. 
 
 One thing to be said in his praise is that he always delivers fresh milk, 
 and it is not watered. This, perhaps, is not due so much to his honesty 
 as to the manner in which he serves the milk, for it is not delivered from 
 cans mounted in wagons, as in the cities of the United States, but instead 
 he drives his cows about, stopping at the doors of his customers and 
 milking in the presence of the purchaser just so much as is wanted. 
 
 Marvelous Natural Wealth. The soil of Cuba is so rich that four hun- 
 dred years' cultivation has scarcely impaired its producing powers, though 
 no attempt has been made to fertilize it. Its sugar lands w^ould supply 
 the whole western hemisphere with that product. Its tobacco is famous 
 throughout the world, and it produces in profusion all the tropical fruits. 
 The orange, lemon, banana, and pine-apple are indigenous, while olives 
 and other fruits, products of warm climates, are equally at home when 
 transplanted to its soil. 
 
 Although settled more than fifty years before the United States, Cuba 
 still has 13,000,000 acres of primeval forests, stocked with the finest 
 woods in the world, several species of which are almost as hard as iron 
 — turning the edge of an ax and remaining imperishable under w T ater. 
 Here are found mahogany, redwood, cedar, lancewood, rosewood, and 
 woods valuable for dyes, medicinal plants, etc., in abundance. 
 
 The ores of Cuba are many in variety, and some of them among the 
 richest in the world, though they have been but little developed for the 
 want of capital and enterprise. Still she ships large quantities of iron 
 even to Pennsylvania iron and steel works. 
 
 The resources of Cuba are infinite, one may say, in variety. Of her 
 area only 10 per cent, is under cultivation, and great tracts remain 
 unexplored. Cuba could support in luxurious plenty a population of 
 10,000,000 inhabitants. Here is a land prepared to yield immeasurably 
 to the happiness of the world. She is only waiting the brain of intel- 
 ligence and the hand of industry, which are sure to come under the ban- 
 ner of liberty, and which are destined to make her blossom ere long into 
 a garden of beauty, swarming with a higher order of population, w T hich 
 shall reap the harvest prepared by nature for man in this hitherto mis- 
 ruled, throttled, and neglected Pearl of the Antilles. 
 
OLD GATES AT ST. AUGUSTINE, FLORIDA- 
 
 XXXII. 
 
 THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, 
 
 "The Land of the Free and the Home of the Brave." 
 
 AVING completed our flying journey through the 
 other countries of the world, let us now come 
 home to America, our own beloved native land, in 
 which we so patriotically exult as " The land of 
 the free and the home of the brave." America ! 
 three hundred years ago inhabited solely by rov- 
 ing tribes of painted Indians, as wild and unciv- 
 ilized as the beasts of the forests and the buffa- 
 loes of the prairies. America ! the wilderness which 
 the diligent hand of civilization has converted into a 
 garden of agriculture, and upon whose great domains the 
 most thriving commercial cities of the world have risen 
 almost as by magic. America ! on whose Virginia shores the footprints of 
 the cavalier were planted and on whose New England shores the Pilgrim 
 Fathers found a refuge from religious persecution scarce three hundred 
 years ago. America ! the land in which the spirits of enterprise and 
 liberty found their home, erected their altars, and invited to their shrines 
 
 (317) 
 
318 
 
 THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 
 the noble lovers of freedom and progress from every nation and every clime 
 upon God's footstool; and where, under the influence of superior liberty 
 of speech, liberty of conscience, and liberty of press, has been erected a 
 republic, like a "city set upon a hill which cannot be hid," the beauty 
 and glory of which have been heralded to the uttermost parts of the 
 earth, and exerted an influence upon the most absolute monarchies and 
 despotisms toward the framing of laws for the betterment of mankind. 
 
 The time has indeed come when we have seen the fulfillment of the 
 prophecy of Daniel Webster, " The proudest exclamation of man shall be, 
 1 1 am an American citizen ! ' " The wealth and resources of our countrv 
 are truly marvelous. On the three principal grain crops — corn, w T heat, 
 and oats — of 1897 alone our tillers of the soil earned one billion seventy- 
 
 PENNSYLVANIA AVENUE, LOOKING TOWARD THE CAPITOL, WASHINGTON. 
 
 seven million five hundred and ninety-four thousand seven hundred and 
 ninety-two dollars. And this includes only the three grain crops. 
 
 What a country ours is, to be sure, when one year's crops yield to its 
 cultivators six or seven times our whole national debt ! What limit 
 shall be set to the power and glory of a country so marvelously fruitful ? 
 
 It is impossible for us to dwell upon the greatness of our country fur- 
 ther than can be done by a description of a few cities and some of its 
 most stupendous and famous natural wonders. 
 
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CHURCH IN HONOLULU, HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 Built of lava stone. Seating capacity about 3000. 
 
 SUGAR CANE PLANTATION, HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 Aboi*: one-fifth of the entire population is engaged in sugar culture. The average product is about three tons per acre 
 
XXXIII. 
 
 WASHINGTON CITY. 
 
 •* 
 
 2HK 
 
 4 
 
 /* ...;r- 
 
 *. 
 
 UR national capital is one of the handsomest cities 
 not only in America, but in all the world. Vis- 
 itors even from Paris tell us that — while it lacks 
 the metropolitan distinction of the French capi- 
 tal and its works of art and historic structures 
 and monuments, which have been accumulating 
 for centuries and which are impossible features in 
 a new city like Washington — our capital is the 
 freshest, brightest, cleanest, most beautiful within 
 itself, and the most desirable residential city of the world. 
 In considering Washington, one should always include the District of 
 Columbia, in which Washington is situated. It is within the District 
 largely without the limits of the City of Washington that many of our 
 national charitable, educational, and training institutions have been 
 established. Many of these will be of interest to the visitor at Washing- 
 ton, from which point they are easily accessible. The prominent institu- 
 tions of the Federal Government as well as those of the District of 
 Columbia proper embrace the Soldiers' and Sailors' Orphan Asylum, the 
 National Soldiers' Home, Children's Hospital, Freedman's Hospital, 
 Providence Hospital for Women, United States Hospital for the Insane, 
 the Reform Farm School for Boys, Washington Asylum for Vagrants, 
 Sick and Destitute Persons and Petty Criminals, the United States Navy 
 Hospital, Garfield Memorial Hospital, Louise Home for Destitute Women, 
 and others of lesser importance. There are also in addition many denom- 
 inational or private institutions of high repute, including five universi- 
 ties, four medical colleges, and three deaf and dumb institutions. Among 
 
 (319) 
 
320 WASHINGTON CITY. 
 
 these we may mention Georgetown University, which was founded in 
 1789, and is the oldest Koman Catholic College in America ; the Columbia 
 University, a Baptist institution established in 1814, largely patronized 
 by the denomination whose name it bears. Here also are located the 
 Deaf-mute College, which enjoys the distinction of being the only col- 
 legiate institution for deaf mutes in the world; the Howard University, 
 which was incorporated in 1867. It is devoted to the education of 
 colored people, and is open to both sexes. The District of Columbia 
 outside of Washington also contained in 1890 eight national banks, one 
 State and ten private banks, besides many other financial institutions, 
 such as life insurance companies, building associations, etc. 
 
 The District is also admirably adapted and largely devoted to farming 
 purposes. Prior to 1800, the staple product raised was tobacco ; but of 
 recent years the cultivation of this plant has been almost wholly aban- 
 doned, and the attention of the farmer has been turned to the raising of 
 grain, corn, hay, fruit, and vegetables, all of which are produced in great 
 abundance, and are readily sold in the markets of Washington City and 
 Georgetown. The mechanical and manufacturing industries likewise 
 flourish in the district. There are more than 1000 establishments of this 
 character, the annual output of the products of which are estimated at 
 over $12,000,000. Georgetown is really a suburb of Washington, though 
 it is the older city of the two, having been incorporated a city several 
 years before the latter. It is situated at the head of tidewater and at 
 the head of the navigation on the Potomac River, and has a population 
 of about 15,000. It keeps fifty mills in operation to supply its trade in 
 flour, and is one of the greatest markets in the country for shad and 
 herring. It also ships about 600,000 tons of coal annually, besides 
 tobacco, grain, and flour raised in western Maryland. 
 
 The District of Columbia, as originally laid out in 1791, contained an 
 area of 100 square miles, but was subsequently reduced to its present 
 dimensions of 64 square miles by receding to Virginia the section of 
 that State which had previously been included within its bounds. The 
 history of this region is interesting. It was at one time a favorite camp- 
 ing and fishing ground for several Indian tribes who lived in its vicinity. 
 The Potomac River flowed through it and was called by the Indians 
 " The River of Swans." In 1660 a portion of the land was purchased by 
 
WASHINGTON CITY. 
 
 321 
 
 an Englishman named Pope. He christened the whole tract Koine and 
 
 the Potomac River he called the Ti- ^., 
 
 ber, after the city and river of Rome 
 
 in Italy. On the principal eminence \ 
 
 where our Capitol now stands, he " k V 
 
 built his house and named it Capitol- ^^ 
 
 m 
 
 
 
 BURNING OF WASHINGTON". 
 
 ine Hill; and, it is said, 
 signed all his letters and 
 documents "The Pope of 
 Rome." 
 
 It was not until the be- 
 ginning of the present cen- 
 tury that our National 
 * Congress met in Washing- 
 ton. The Colonial Con- 
 gress for a number of 
 years following its organization had no permanent seat, the first in 1783 
 having begun in Philadelphia ; but being disturbed by a riotous band of 
 
322 WASHINGTON CITY. 
 
 soldiers who demanded their overdue pay, Congress adjourned first to 
 Princeton, New Jersey, thence to Annapolis, Maryland, and subsequently 
 settled in New York, where Washington was inaugurated as first Pres- 
 ident, and afterwards returned to Philadelphia, where he delivered his 
 famous farewell address. The necessity of a permanent seat of gov- 
 ernment became urgent, and when the proposed Federal Constitution 
 was drafted, in 1787, a clause was inserted authorizing Congress to 
 negotiate with certain States for a tract of land to be occupied for the 
 United States Government purposes, and over which Congress was to 
 exercise exclusive control. Promptly in reply to this, Maryland ceded 
 60 square miles on one side of the Potomac and Virginia 40 square 
 miles on the other side. The offer was accepted and the present site of 
 the national capital was selected in 1790. The name as agreed upon 
 for the tract of land was " The Territory of Columbia " and for the capital 
 "The City of Washington," thus honoring Christopher Columbus, the 
 discoverer of the country, in the name of the territory, and Washington, 
 the father of the republic, in the name of the city. The public buildings 
 were erected and official possession was taken in the year 1800, when 
 Congress moved from Philadelphia and began holding its sessions in 
 Washington. 
 
 For seventy-one years (until 1871) the control of the District was 
 exercised directly by the Congress. In 1871, a territorial government 
 was set up, of which Alexander P. Sheppard became Governor in 1873. 
 But the next year this territorial government was abolished and three 
 commissioners were appointed to manage the affairs of the District, but 
 always to act directly under the legislation of Congress. 
 
 It is interesting to know that the District of Columbia has no repre- 
 sentation in Congress, nor can the 300,000 citizens who live within the 
 District exercise the right of suffrage. They do not vote either in the 
 national elections nor in the affairs of the District. For this reason most 
 of the government employes, of which there are many thousands, retain 
 their citizenship in one of the States and return during the main elec- 
 tions to exercise their rights of suffrage. 
 
 Leaving the District of Columbia in general, let us now direct our 
 attention to the capital city itself. 
 
 Washington City was founded in 1791. The public buildings were 
 
WASHINGTON CITY, 
 
 323 
 
 ready for occupation, as said above, and the government removed there 
 in 1800. The plan of the city indicates that it was laid out with a view 
 of making it some day a vast metropolis, and, from its recent strides in 
 growth, this expectation bids fair yet to be realized. But for many rea- 
 sons we might wish it to remain as it is rather than become a great com- 
 mercial city. With Capitol Hill for a centre, the streets are laid out at 
 right angles, due east and west and north and south, and the ground 
 
 THE CAPITOL AT "WASHINGTON. 
 
 upon which it is built extends in length 41 miles and in width 21 miles. 
 The city thus covers an area of about 11 square miles. In 1812, the 
 second war with England began, and the main effort of the English was 
 to capture the City of Washington. This they succeeded in doing on the 
 24th day of August, 1814, and burned much of it to ashes, including a 
 number of the public buildings and a portion of the Capitol itself. An- 
 other destructive fire visited the city thirty-six years later, when on the 
 24th of December, after Congress had adjourned for the holidays, the 
 
 21 
 
324 WASHINGTON CITY. 
 
 greater part of the Capitol buildings, including almost the entire Library 
 of Congress, were destroyed. But no vestige of these devastations can 
 at present be seen. In fact, while they were calamities coming as they 
 did in the infancy and early history of our government, this fire was, in 
 the long run, perhaps, a benefit ; for everything destroyed was replaced 
 by much more imposing and commodious structures. 
 
 As the city of our National Government, Washington has, perhaps, 
 more fine buildings than any other American city. First among these 
 and first in importance to all visitors is the Capitol, situated on an emi- 
 nence where Pope nearly 300 years ago built his frontier castle known 
 then as Capitoline Hill, now as Capitol Hill. This vast pile is built 
 entirely of freestone and white marble. It is 737 feet long, and is sur- 
 mounted by an iron dome rising 237 feet high, upon the summit of which 
 stands a huge bronze statue representing Liberty. The rotunda under 
 this dome constitutes within itself a historic picture gallery, for it is 
 filled with fine paintings representing scenes in American history by 
 several of the most celebrated painters of the world. A detailed descrip- 
 tion of this building would occupy more space than it is possible for us 
 to devote. Visitors will find guide-books which direct them in a tour of 
 the building and describe every feature in detail. The building is orna- 
 mented with many statues in marble representing the heroes and distin- 
 guished men of our nation, besides innumerable classic and historic 
 scenes moulded in plaster or hammered in metal designed and executed 
 by the master-minds and master-hands of the world's greatest artists. 
 Of course, no sightseer at Washington should fail to visit the Senate 
 Chamber, the Hall of the House of Eepresentatives, and the Supreme 
 Court Kooms in the Capitol building. 
 
 Formerly he would also visit the Library of Congress under the same 
 roof; but this magnificent collection of books has now been transferred 
 to its own splendid home, the most magnificent library building in the 
 world, situated not far away on the Capitol grounds. No description* 
 of this artistic structure could do it justice in the space at command. It 
 is a veritable " thing of beauty ; " and, if appearances may be trusted, is 
 likely to remain " a joy forever " to the American nation. It is not 
 only fireproof throughout, but it is so constructed of such indestructible 
 material that it could scarcely be made more durable. 
 
WASHINGTON CITY. 
 
 325 
 
 On Pennsylvania Avenue, one mile and a half west of the Capitol, 
 stands the Presidential residence known as the White House. It is built of 
 freestone, is two stories high, and, though "beautiful of situation" and 
 surrounded by a magnificent park of stately trees and admirably kept 
 lawns tastefully adorned with beds of flowers and clumps of shrubbery, 
 the building itself is, perhaps, the most unpretentious home of the ruler 
 of any great nation of the earth. In this respect, however, it is thor- 
 oughly in keeping with the American idea that the President of the 
 
 
 Wf:.: ''■:>. ■'" .-.-. ■ , v.-,,..,JH|:; 
 
 C - -\ :- ■ 
 THE "WHITE HOUSE— MAIN ENTEAKCE. 
 
 Nation is the servant, not the master of the people ; and, after all, the 
 people are the real sovereign ; and the President, the chief executive of 
 their sovereign wills, is expected to set an example in economy, frugality, 
 and domestic virtues in the Presidential mansion which should serve as 
 an example to his humbler and poorer as well as more wealthy servants, 
 many of whom live in far grander style than the President of the United 
 States can afford to do. 
 
 But however humble the President's mansion may appear in com- 
 parison with the homes of the monarchs of the old world, other public 
 
326 WASHINGTON CITY. 
 
 edifices are fully equal in respect to architecture while they surpass in 
 every particular of convenience and adaptability to their purpose those 
 of the most powerful monarchies of the old world. Among those most 
 worthy of mention are the Treasury Building on Pennsylvania Avenue, 
 the buildings of the State Department and the War and Naval Depart- 
 ments,' the General Postoffice on E Street, the Patent Office, occupying 
 the block bounded by Eighth, Ninth, F, and G Streets, the Smithsonian 
 Institute, the Department of Agriculture, constituting the principal large 
 buildings which will attract the attention and elicit the admiration of 
 the intelligent visitor from any part of the world. All of these buildings 
 are open to the public at stated times, and no traveler should fail to 
 avail himself of the pleasure and benefit of an excursion not only to them, 
 but should take time to go through these splendid structures. Guide- 
 books or courteous attendants will explain all the details. 
 
 After the great public buildings, a visit should also be made to the 
 Washington monument. This loftv obelisk is the tallest shaft of 
 masonry in the world, standing over 555 feet high. The monument was 
 designed by Eobert Mills, and work on it was begun in the year 1848. 
 At the close of 1856, $300,000 had been expended upon it and it had 
 reached the height of only 156 feet. No further work was done until 
 1878, when the Washington Monument Society conveyed the property 
 to the United States Government. It was then decided to strengthen 
 the base by making the foundation 16,000 square feet instead of 6400, 
 according to the original plan. The monument was completed and the 
 capstone laid December 6, 1884. The visitor is impressed with the 
 appropriateness of such a monument as this to such a monumental 
 character as Washington. Throughout the world, if the popular vote 
 were taken, there is little doubt that he would receive the highest count 
 over all the heroes and sages who have ever lived as the model great 
 man of the earth. It is therefore fitting that he should have the tallest 
 monument of them all. 
 
 Elevators run from the bottom to the top of this great structure, and 
 from the slender iron-railed battlements around its summit a bird's-eye 
 view, extending many miles away in all directions over city, farm, river 
 and wooded country, great public buildings, the Navy Yard, factories, 
 palatial homes and humble cottages, spreading meadows, screen lawns, 
 
WASHINGTON CITY. 
 
 327 
 
 luxurious groves of forest trees, flower-decked gardens, and undulating 
 hills, greet the eye. Arlington, the historic home of Kobert E. Lee and 
 his ancestors, and the National Cemetery surrounding it rise grandly on 
 iae Virginia heights beyond the Potomac. The city of Alexandria 
 nestles beside the glassy waters below it, and the wooded hills of Mount 
 Vernon, the home and burial-place of George Washington, stand out 
 
 
 SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTE. 
 
 still farther down the rapidly broadening river. These, altogether, make 
 up a picture of varied beauty with historic settings such as few eyes 
 have ever elsewhere witnessed, and which no intelligent beholder once 
 having seen can ever forget. 
 
 The Naval Observatory on the banks of the river southwest of the 
 White House is another attractive point, as are also the several universi- 
 ties and asylums already mentioned. The Arsenal on Greenleaf Point 
 
328 WASHINGTON CITY. 
 
 is also one of the greatest depots in the country, while the Navy Yard, 
 11 miles southeast of the Capitol, covering 30 acres, is a most interest- 
 ing place to visit. The Corcoran Art Gallery, founded by W. W. Cor- 
 coran, is an attraction which no lover of art should overlook. Its magnif- 
 icent collection of statues and paintings will furnish food for a long and 
 delightful study and enjoyment. Thirteen miles above the city are the 
 great Falls of the Potomac, which equal in wildness and interest 
 perhaps any other cascades in the country. 
 
 The City of Washington is also the social Mecca of the Republic. It 
 is here that the wife of the President, " the first lady of the land," enter- 
 tains her friends and the elite of the nation at her public and private 
 receptions. Following her example, the wives and daughters of the 
 members of the President's Cabinet hold similar entertainments of 
 scarcely less pretentious magnitude. Here also live the families of the 
 several hundred senators and representatives of our National Legislature, 
 and the ministers and representatives of all the foreign governments 
 of the earth. It is but natural that such a nucleus of distinguished 
 men and women should draw to the capital the most brilliant wit and 
 the highest order of social training in the gentle society of the Republic. 
 The daily press keeps us familiar with all current social events, and 
 those who would post themselves in the annals of the past will find " a 
 feast of social gossip " in Ben Perley Poor's book entitled " Recollections 
 of Fifty Years' Life at Washington," in which every great social event 
 from the administration of John Quincy Adams to that of Grover Cleve- 
 land is chronicled, teeming with moving life-pictures of " Old Hickory " 
 Jackson, Clay, W^ebster, Grant, Blaine, and other great men of the 
 nation. 
 
 As a place of residence, perhaps, Washington outranks all other 
 American cities. Its streets are remarkably wide, clean, well shaded 
 and well paved. Its water-supply is pure and its service excellent. Its 
 public schools are among the very best in the country ; its society is the 
 most cosmopolitan from an American standpoint, the most represen- 
 tatively national, and the freest from provincialisms in manners and 
 speech — in short, it is a blending of the best from all quarters of the 
 United States. 
 
ZZXIV. 
 
 GREATER NEW YORK, 
 
 The Second Largest City of the World. 
 
 LONDON is the largest city on the globe, 
 and New York is next in size. On January 
 1, 1898, Greater New York was created by 
 the union of New York, Brooklyn, Long 
 Island City and Staten Island into one 
 municipality. The new city covers 317tfo 
 square miles — over two and one-half times 
 the area of Philadelphia and twice that of 
 Chicago — and had on the day its charter 
 went into effect (January 1, 1898), 3,400,- 
 000 inhabitants, which is 800,000 less than 
 the population of London, and 1,000,000 
 more than that of Paris. Its daily in- 
 crease of population is reckoned at four 
 hundred souls. If this rate of increase 
 should continue for fifty years, New York 
 will be a far greater city than London if 
 the latter should also continue to increase 
 at its present ratio. 
 
 The making of a charter for the great 
 metropolis was the most serious piece of 
 constructive political work that has been 
 undertaken since the forming oi the Fed- 
 eral Constitution, because of the infinitely 
 greater number of details that had to be 
 provided for in it. Nevertheless, the uni- 
 store at 55 broadway, new fication of contiguous cities and towns 
 
 YORK. D 
 
 under one government is natural and wise, 
 provided, of course, the administration of its affairs be intrusted to un- 
 
 (329) 
 
330 GREATER NEW YORK 
 
 selfish, wise, and public-spirited men ; otherwise, so much power centered 
 in the hands of mercenary rulers becomes a menace to public interests 
 and works an influence upon society, morality, and patriotism, the far- 
 reaching effect of which cannot be too much dreaded, for New York is 
 the metropolis of the western hemisphere, and what she does is known, 
 and largely copied, to the most remote village of our Eepublic. 
 
 Second only to Chicago, the growth of New York is the marvel of the 
 world. Enterprise has ever been its patron saint and trade has been 
 its master-passion. The very site on which the city stands was bought 
 by the shrewd Dutch traders from the Iroquois and Algonquins Indians 
 for a few Dutch trinkets, valued at about twenty-four dollars. Captain 
 Hendrick Hudson himself, when he first entered the harbor in 1609, was 
 attracted to the spot, not by the beauty of Manhattan Island's undulat- 
 ing and wooded scenery, not by the picturesque clusters of Indian wig- 
 wams along the banks of its rivers, lakes, and streams, but by its busi- 
 ness advantages, by the fertility of its soil, by the abundance of its 
 fur-bearing animals, and, above all, by the commodiousness and con- 
 venience of its river and harbor. His native country, the United Nether- 
 lands, was then one of the great commercial nations of the globe. No 
 sooner had he returned home, therefore, than his mercantile countrymen 
 were roused to at least a temporary interest in the financial possibilities 
 of the new discovery, and within a year barter of Holland gewgaws for 
 Indian furs had begun. Finally, in 1622 merchant vessels entered the 
 harbor to take formal possession of the place in behalf of the West India 
 Company — a trading corporation which had acquired charter rights over 
 it, and were authorized to make out of it all the money they could. This 
 they proceeded to do, though in rather bungling fashion, and they at- 
 tempted nothing else. Thus, since the day the city was established to 
 this, the accumulation of wealth has been the motive which has shaped 
 its destinies and moulded its character. The following year the ship 
 " New Netherland " brought into the harbor thirty families, prepared to 
 establish a permanent trading colony, and soon after all Indian rights 
 to the island were purchased. So began New York, then called New 
 Amsterdam. 
 
 For over half a century this outlying settlement had little to say about 
 its own affairs. It was governed paternally by the West India Com- 
 
GREATER NEW YORK. 
 
 331 
 
 pany. The busy merchants of Amsterdam would pick up what man 
 they could as agent, would give him all but unlimited powers and send 
 
 him out to further their 
 interests and incidentally 
 to protect the inhabitants 
 
 A DUTCH HOUSEHOLD. 
 
 over the sea. In the 
 main, he was left to his 
 own devices and resources 
 — distracted on the one hand by the urgent demands from his employ- 
 ers for greater profits, and by his subjects for greater outlay. The 
 New Englanders were constantly encroaching on one boundary; the 
 Swedes on the other. The Indians were often treacherous and vindictive. 
 The ammunition was often scanty, a scattered population soon sprang 
 
332 GREATER NEW YORK. 
 
 up, making the problem more difficult, and the fortification was hope- 
 lessly inadequate. To be sent out on such an agency was little less than 
 banishment. The colony was out of the world, was small, and did not 
 prove as lucrative as was hoped for. 
 
 In 1664 the British suddenly and treacherously seized the city and 
 changed its name to New York. The colonists made no resistance and 
 it was taken without the firing of a gun. At this time the population 
 of the village was over 2000. It had a market-place and held a yearb r 
 cattle fair, and boasted that there were more slaves in New York tha: 
 in Virginia. The frontier, however, was suffering from wars with the 
 French and Indians, and the British masters were an accession to the 
 fighting forces of the colony, therefore welcome to rule for the time. The 
 Dutchman preferred to trade rather than waste his time governing, a fact 
 frequently demonstrated by their making the most indolent and worth- 
 less men into governors and other officials. In 1673 the Dutch re- 
 captured the city from the English, but the next year, considering the 
 prize not worth quarreling over, yielded it again to the English, and 
 from that time forward it has been continually called New York. 
 
 Thus the Englishman's passion to rule and the Dutchman's passion 
 to trade were both gratified. " Will it pay? " was the only question the 
 latter had to ask in considering any proposition. Even when the Indians 
 took captives from their numbers, they preferred to ransom them rather 
 than fight the kidnappers, because it cost less than war. 
 
 New York in 1675 had a number of good stone dwellings and had " a 
 substantial and aristocratic air, as if inhabited by people of wealth and 
 cultivated tastes." " Some of these people have the breeding of counts," 
 wrote an English writer. Private tutors were employed in wealthy 
 families. By 1676 the gay apparel of the landed proprietors contrasted 
 strangely with the sombre garb of their Puritan neighbors of New Eng- 
 land and the Quaker Friends of Philadelphia. Compared with Boston, 
 New York was aristocratic in social life and customs. Its landed gentry 
 had their coaches and six, with gilded trappings, their household of 
 negro slaves, their horse-races. In fashionable society even the funerals 
 were conducted with a ceremonial which must often have been appalling. 
 Meanwhile the poorer classes lived quietly and with measurable content- 
 ment. In spirit, New York was as cosmopolitan in the seventeenth 
 
GREATER NEW YORK. 
 
 333 
 
 century as it is to-day. The chances it offered to make money had 
 drawn to its shores indiscriminately men of all nations, classes, and 
 
 PBODUCE EXCHANGE BUILDING, NEW YORK. 
 
 creeds. Its very founders had come from a cosmopolitan country and were 
 cosmopolitans themselves. By 1642 the English residents rivaled the 
 Dutch in numbers and influence, so that an official interpreter had to be 
 
334 GREATER NEW YORK. 
 
 appointed because of the bi-lingual nature of the place. In the same 
 year began the French Huguenot immigration, while twenty years later 
 saw the entrance of Swedes, Germans, and other nationalities. 
 
 Slave labor filled the pockets of its citizens in the seventeenth century, 
 the war of emancipation enriched them in the nineteenth ; the war of 
 1812, even though it destroyed their merchant marine, increased their 
 wealth. It is, therefore, not surprising to find that before the close of 
 the seventeenth century New York had begun to fatten on the merchan- 
 dise of pirates. Kakish-looking vessels were often to be seen at anchor 
 in the harbor, and richly-dressed and heavily-armed strangers were 
 welcomed at the taverns. This was the time of Captain Kidd and his 
 fashionable wife. Fortunes were mysteriously enhanced. Men of mark 
 in the community naturally, and perhaps justly, fell under the suspicion. 
 It was not until England with a heavy hand had put down piracy that 
 New York again turned all her energies to legitimate commerce. 
 
 By 1750 the town, though it was still smaller than Boston or Phila- 
 delphia, was probably quite as opulent. The place seemed like a garden. 
 Two newspapers filled with foreign news, custom-house entries, and local 
 comments were issued from New York presses, and the theatre had 
 started well with the play of Richard III. In the neighborhood of New 
 York were the large manor-houses, peopled by a retinue of slaves and 
 household servants, furnished with elegance and usually surrounded by 
 an English park. 
 
 In 1765, a general congress of the colonies was held in the city to 
 protest against the Stamp Act. Dependent as New York was upon her 
 shipping, she was the first to recommend a non-importation of English 
 merchandise. As a means of retaliating upon Great Britain, she took 
 the first weapon at hand — finance. Though New York had many adhe- 
 rents to the crown, the mass of her people hailed with delight the news 
 of the skirmish at Lexington ; they took possession of the City Hall and 
 armed themselves with the ammunition it contained ; they unloaded two 
 vessels laden with supplies for the British troops in Massachusetts, and 
 detained all vessels bound for any of the British possessions, seized the 
 custom-house, disarmed British troops, repudiated the official assembly 
 and elected an extra official committee to act in its stead. 
 
 In 1776, soon after Boston was evacuated by the British troops, Wash- 
 
GREATER NEW YORK. 
 
 335 
 
 ington entered New York at the head of 27,000 troops to defend the city 
 against Lord Howe's attack with 31,000 trained soldiers. On July 8th 
 the Declaration of Independence was read to the American troops in the 
 
 THE STATUE OF LIBERTY IN NEW YORK HARBOR. 
 
 {Presented to the United States by Bartholdi.) 
 
 city. On the 26th of August, Washington was forced to evacuate, and 
 the city fell into the hands of the British, who held it for seven years, 
 during which time the inhabitants fled with whatever they could carry 
 
336 GREATER NEW YORK. 
 
 away ; and what was left was devastated or devoured by flames and a 
 wanton soldiery. The adjacent country was also menaced and laid waste 
 by guerrilla bands. It was not until November 25, 1783 — one year after 
 peace had been signed — that the English troops finally evacuated the 
 city and Washington entered it at the head of his army. New York at 
 this time had twenty-four thousand inhabitants, having increased five 
 thousand even while in possession of the foe. 
 
 One of the first acts of the patriots after regaining possession was to 
 confiscate the estates of leading Tories. One of them alone was sold for 
 nearly one-quarter of a million dollars. In 1 784 the Chamber of Commerce- 
 was reorganized. In 1785 Congress removed from Philadelphia to New 
 York and met in the present sub-Treasury building at the corner of 
 Wall and Nassau Streets, which continued to be the Capitol of the country 
 until 1790. It was here that Washington was inaugurated first President 
 of the United States in 1789. In the meantime the Bank of New York 
 had been established, and a Manumission Society for the freeing of slaves 
 had been organized. 
 
 From 1785 to 1796 the populatiou of the city was almost doubled. 
 Rents on houses rose rapidly. New houses multiplied, and the city wore 
 a continual air of gaiety. Wall Street in the afternoons was thronged 
 with fashionable promenaders in Parisian costumes. Dinners and balls 
 were daily occurrences, and it was the rule not to begin business before 
 9 to 10 o'clock in the morning. It was at this period that New York, 
 became what it has ever since been, the most attractive point in the new 
 world for all foreigners, both rich and poor, and was speedily recognized' 
 as the gateway to America. Emigration began to flow in from all climes, 
 and, with the enfranchisement of the slaves, the population grew every 
 day into a more heterogeneous mass. 
 
 Until 1800 New York City was a stronghold of Federalism. Until 
 1804 it was the home of the great constructive statesman of the epoch, 
 Alexander Hamilton. But its most representative politician was Aaron 
 Burr. Affable, cunning, unscrupulous, he studied every prominent man's 
 weak point and appealed to it. From the day that he organized his 
 followers for political spoils, New York State has never been without its 
 political machines and bosses. A keen insight into human nature and an 
 adaptability to circumstances were his chief resources. His powers of 
 
GREATER NEW YORK. 
 
 337 
 
 trickery were marvelous and were used with cynical indifference to his 
 being found out, when once the trick had effected its purpose. His duel 
 with Hamilton is a familiar story ; all know how he pursued his rival 
 with a murderous intent from which there was no escaping ; how they met 
 
 in the woods at Weehawken, and how 
 cent over his fatal success. Unfortu- 
 Still more unfortunately his evil lived 
 always been some one else ready to 
 laid. Indeed, Burr's power had not 
 Tammany Hall was founded — an or- 
 nently respectable, but destined to be- 
 come the most famous municipal ring 
 the world over. Every one remembers 
 
 he returned home, compla- 
 nately he went unhanged, 
 after him. There has 
 pull the wires which he 
 begun to wane before 
 ganization, at first emi- 
 
 m'i-A 
 
 *-%5. 
 
 \5 £- *\. 
 
 THE OBELISK IN CENTRAL PARK, NEW YORK. 
 
 the notorious rule of "Boss Tweed," whose power was finally broken in 
 1871. But Croker is perhaps a greater manipulator. The vote of 
 November 2, 1897, gave Tammany Hall the most remarkable victory in 
 its history, by giving it the control of Greater New York. 
 
 The growth of the city received a great impetus from the War of 1812/ 
 
338 GREATER NEW YORK 
 
 with all its opportunities for privateering, but an event of much greater 
 local importance was the completion of the Erie Canal, on October 26, 
 1825. From that day, New York became more and more cosmopolitan. 
 Its wealth, its size, its chances for money-making, its opportunities for 
 criminal courses, attracted men of all classes within its boundaries. Its 
 population soon became too shifting to have much local patriotism or 
 many local prejudices. Aristocratic families lost their family influence, 
 however much they might retain their family pride. It was about this 
 time and a little later that its great coterie of literary men, including Cooper, 
 Bryant, Irving, Halleck, and Poe, came upon the stage of action. They 
 show no such provincialism in their writings as do their New England 
 contemporaries, a fact which speaks well for New York's breadth ; but 
 unfortunately their work has never been remembered with the patriotic 
 gratitude with which Boston remembers its Hawthorne, Emerson, Lowell, 
 and Longfellow. The people of New York were traders. Hence repre- 
 sentative New Yorkers of the epoch were not its men of art or literature, 
 nor its statsmen, for of these last it had none, but its Astor, a German 
 peddler, who grew rich in the fur trade ; its Cornelius Vanderbilt, a boat- 
 man of Dutch descent, who won a fortune in railway speculation ; and its 
 A. T. Stewart, a native of Belfast, who acquired fifty millions or more out 
 of dry goods. It was the period of vulgar display and pretentiousness. 
 The fashions of the day were flashy imitations of Paris. Much of the 
 wealth was ill-gotten; more of it was ill-spent. The wealthy were 
 generous to munificence and vain of their generosity. 
 
 Since 1871 the business morals of the community have greatly im- 
 proved. Cleverness goes not so far, integrity goes further than in the 
 palmy days of the brilliant, daring, cynical adventurer, Fisk. Men are 
 beginning to be honest towards their rivals as well as towards their 
 customers to a degree comparatively unknown in the time of A. T. 
 Stewart. In consequence, business has gained a greater solidity and a 
 greater sense and appearance of permanence — a solidity manifest in our 
 massive business-houses of to-day. Our great buildings, ugly as some 
 of them are, are now built to endure. As our money is being more 
 soberly earned, so it is being more modestly spent. It is no longer gay Paris 
 exclusively, but even more the quieter London which sets our fashions 
 for us. Modesty of manner is growing popular ; modesty of disposition, 
 
GREATER NEW YORK. 
 
 339 
 
 even, is increasing. To be sure, New York still suffers from the osten- 
 tation and vulgar display of newly gotten wealth, but it suffers this 
 usually from the hands of new settlers, not of old inhabitants. The city, 
 
 
 GREENWOOD CEMETERY. 
 
 in brief, is maturing, and with maturity has naturally come a quieter 
 demeanor and a more intellectual life. 
 
 As a result, New York has become the musical, art, and literary 
 centre of the country. The Metropolitan Opera House, built within the 
 memory of the young men of to-day, is the finest audience hall for the 
 
 22 
 
340 GREATER NEW YORK. 
 
 rendition of American and Italian opera which the country has yet seen. 
 Every year those who wish to be in fashion and those who genuinely 
 love music alike gather within its four great walls of yellow brick to 
 hear the most beautiful of foreign operas rendered by some of the best 
 of foreign singers. Intelligent interest in music, as well as simulation 
 of that interest, is steadily increasing, and the promise of a worthy 
 American music, dim though it yet is, grows slowly but steadily brighter. 
 " Music Hall/ 7 an edifice devoted almost exclusively to oratorios and 
 to orchestral concerts, completed in 1891, has also made its influence 
 felt. Far more important architecturally than either is the Madison 
 Square Garden. Beautiful in color, graceful in form, delicate and often 
 exquisite in the tracery of its ornamentation, and covering the entire 
 block, so that it is marred by close proximity to no other building, it is 
 a constant gladdener of the eye and educator of the taste. Unfortunately, 
 the city's architecture is not all of the same quality. The style of every 
 nation and of every age has its attempted imitation. In the lower part 
 of the citv the most notable architecture is to be found in the old- 
 fashioned City Hall, built when New York extended no further north 
 than Brooklyn Bridge; in the Produce Exchange, whose great square 
 tower is a landmark far down the harbor; and in the lofty but massive 
 office buildings, which are to be found in increasing numbers near the 
 centre of traffic. 
 
 In the upper part of the city the stranger will examine with the most 
 interest the Koman Catholic Cathedral, the Jewish synagogues, the 
 almost palatial dwellings of the railroad kings, and the stupendous 
 apartment houses and hotels which are growing more popular every year 
 as places of residence. New York is said by travelers to have the most 
 elaborate and elegant hotel accommodations of any city in the world, 
 the Fifth Avenue and the Waldorf being the most prominent among 
 transient hostelries ; but a number of the uptown hotels equal or excel 
 them in elegance of appointment. It is only necessary to look back 
 fifteen years to recognize the fact that New York is growing more artistic 
 in its architecture. The massive and imposing structures, erected since 
 1885, are the wonder and delight of the visitor even from London and 
 Paris, while the better class of modern dwellings are undeniably tasty 
 and beautiful. The public of to-day is also more appreciative of paint- 
 
GREATER NEW YORK. 
 
 341 
 
 ing. The Metropolitan Museum of Art has within the last two decades 
 gathered together a remarkably artistic collection of foreign and Amer- 
 ican masterpieces, and the art colony of New York is a growing com- 
 munity. The cultivated readers of the country are also now looking to 
 the metropolis as the centre of the nation's literary life. To be sure, our 
 most characteristic national literature is our distinctively and avowedly 
 provincial literature. It comes from Joel Chandler Harris, the Georgian ; 
 Thomas Nelson Page, the Virginian ; Miss Wilkins, the Puritan ; Eugene 
 Field, of the plains ; and Octave Thanet, of Arkansas. But it is to New 
 
 GENERAL VIEW OP THE NEW YORK CITY HALL. 
 
 York and no longer to Boston that the writer in search of his fortune 
 now turns ; it is New York which can boast of the most active and the 
 most growing literary circle ; there our magazines have their headquar- 
 ters and the largest publishing houses are located. It is only in New 
 York that one feels himself in the heart of literary America. The metro- 
 polis of the country has the wealth, and all other things are being added 
 to it. 
 
 There is less turbulence in the city than there was in the fifties, sixties? 
 and seventies. The Irish have become somewhat used to American 
 
342 GREATER NEW YORK. 
 
 privileges. They no longer run riot in our city streets, though they still 
 run riot in our city treasury. The population is more heterogeneous than 
 ever, but the city has become so large as to allow each race to form a 
 community of its own where it can measurably follow its own customs 
 and select its own standards. There is a little China in Mott Street, a 
 little Italy in Mulberry Street. That separation of class from class, which 
 history has over and over again proved to be inevitable, is rapidly taking 
 place on Manhattan Island and throughout Greater New York to-day. 
 But with the separation comes added freedom ; while industry, enterprise, 
 thrift, constitute an " Open Sesame " to every quarter of the town. 
 
 The visitor to the metropolis who wishes to " see the sights " should go 
 about it in a systematic manner. The cheapest or the most expensive 
 quarters to be found in America may be secured to suit his tastes and 
 his means. Once settled, a few hours' study of the city map and a guide- 
 book will enable him to locate all points of interest, and visit them in 
 order. Days, weeks, or even months may be spent in this pleasant and 
 instructive pastime, and, at last wearied out with going, the inquisitive 
 visitor would stop with a feeling that the half had not been seen. 
 
 There are monster buildings for those who love architecture,, vast art 
 collections for those who love pictures, museums for the curious, great 
 libraries filled with books for the reader and student. Miles of ship- 
 masts and smokestacks of great steamers skirt the city around. Parks 
 are filled with trees and flowers and ornamented with marble and bronze 
 statues of heroes of our nation in war and peace. There are more than 
 one thousand churches, representing almost every creed, and hundreds 
 of theatres and opera houses, whose grand-organ peals or soft orchestral 
 strains passing through the portals mingle with the drum-beat and 
 cymbal-clang and the shrill falsetto, musicless song of the Salvation 
 Army on the pavement. 
 
 Broadway within itself is a continual show from the Battery — the 
 park in which old Castle Garden is situated — on the south, to 59th 
 Street, on. the north. No other street in the world comes so near 
 presenting a veritable commercial museum in its show-window displays, 
 while its crowding and crushing throngs of human beings, street cars 
 and vehicles is an unceasing wonder to the rural visitor. From a window 
 in one of the tall buildings near City Hall Park the scene reminds one 
 
GREATER NEW YORK. 
 
 343 
 
 of a veritable beehive. The people seem to be crawling about and over 
 each other in an interminable mass. 
 
 Of course, all sightseers in the metropolis will have pointed out to 
 them the Brooklyn Bridge and the Statue of Liberty. Every one who 
 enters the city, if he keeps his eyes open, will see these from the ferry- 
 boat in crossing the river ; but a visit to them and a close inspection are 
 necessary to a comprehension of their magnitude and interesting details. 
 
 Every patriotic visitor to the metropolis will also wish to visit General 
 Grant's tomb. By far the most imposing, the most beautiful of situa- 
 
 GENEEAL VIEW OF THE BROOKLYN" BRIDGE. 
 
 tion, and the most costlv mausoleum in the United States is that which 
 contains the remains of the hero of Appomattox, and which is situated 
 at Riverside Heights, New York City. 
 
 The site for the tomb was selected in 1886, and by September of that 
 year a subscription of about $83,000 had been raised. With this a 
 temporary tomb was provided on the site in which the sarcophagus 
 containing the remains of the great general was deposited. It was intended 
 to erect a grand tomb as soon as sufficient means could be raised, to cost 
 
344 GREATER NEW YORK 
 
 near or quite one-half million dollars. It seems strange that subscrip- 
 tions to this amount did not come unsolicited as a tribute to the hero 
 of so many hearts. But, as a matter of fact, the subscriptions stood still for 
 many years. Practically nothing more was added to the fund until 1890 
 and 1891. It is due to General Horace Porter and Mr. Edward F. 
 Cragin, of Chicago, that the amount was finally secured. The latter- 
 named gentleman especially, General Porter declares, deserves honorable 
 mention, for by his effort and tact he raised $350,000 in a period of six 
 weeks, thus completing the amount required to build the tomb, the 
 cornerstone of which was laid by President Harrison on April 27, 1892, 
 the anniversary of General Grant's birthday. 
 
 The work of the architect and builder was completed and the remains 
 of the great soldier were removed from their temporary to this permanent 
 resting-place five years later--- April 27, 1897 — and furnished the occa- 
 sion for one of the most imposing sights ever witnessed in the American 
 metropolis. 
 
 The three great spectacles, consisting of the review of the Merchant 
 Marines and Navy on the Hudson, the parade of the Army and the 
 National Guards, and the solemn ceremonies at the tomb, the prayer by 
 Bishop Newman, and the addresses by President McKinley, General 
 Porter, and Mayor Strong, left a lasting impression on the multitude — 
 perhaps the greatest that ever turned out to do honor to a departed 
 American statesman or soldier. 
 
 To describe the tomb in detail would require too much space. It 
 was designed by John H. Duncan, measures 90 feet on a side, and is 
 square in shape. The steps leading to its entrance on the south side 
 are 70 feet in width. The top of the cupola is 280 feet above the Hud- 
 son River, which it overlooks, and its height is 150 feet from base to the 
 apex of its cone-shaped summit. There is considerable sculpture de- 
 picting scenes in General Grant's life. On the interior the same mas- 
 sive, plain, substantial style prevails. Provisions have been made for 
 placing the remains of the General's widow by his side in this magnifi- 
 cent tomb, when it shall please Providence to call her spirit to join that 
 of her distinguished husband on the other shore. 
 
XXXV. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA, 
 
 The City of Independence. 
 
 ON a level plain between the 
 Delaware and Schuylkill Rivers, 
 fringed with busy wharves, lies Phil- 
 adelphia, the happy, leisurely and 
 comfortable old " Quaker City," laid 
 out on the plan of ancient Babylon, 
 with nearly two thousand miles of 
 regular streets traversed by three 
 hundred and fifty miles of electric 
 car lines. Philadelphia is the chief 
 city of Pennsylvania, and one of the 
 three cities of America, and of the 
 nine cities of the world, with more 
 than a million inhabitants. 
 
 Prior to 1825 Philadelphia was the 
 most populous city and the com- 
 mercial metropolis of the country. Her ships exceeded those of New 
 York and Boston ; and, traversing all distant seas, they unloaded at her 
 wharves the imports from all nations and climes ; but the completion of 
 the Erie Canal in 1825 transferred the palm of commercial supremacy 
 to New York, whose superior harbor — Philadelphia being ninety-six 
 miles from the sea — naturally entitles her to this distinction. 
 
 The Delaware, about one mile in width, sweeps in a noble crescent in 
 front of the city The channel is deep enough for vessels drawing 
 twenty-five feet of water, and four lines of European steamships and 
 many coasting lines sail from this port, 
 
 - (345) 
 
 FRANKLIN'S GRAVE. 
 
346 PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 The closely built-up section of the city covers a level tract which rises 
 only forty-six feet above tidewater, though in the suburban section an 
 elevation of four hundred and forty feet is attained. Until Chicago ex- 
 tended her limits some fifteen years ago, Philadelphia had the most ex- 
 tensive territory of any city in America, embracing an area of 82,603 
 acres, or about one hundred and twenty-nine square miles, the extreme 
 length being twenty-two and the width varying from five to ten miles. 
 About one-eighth of this area is closely covered with buildings, while in 
 the rural sections are a number of partly detached towns and villages 
 abounding in handsome suburban residences. The city is laid out in a 
 strikingly regular manner. The streets cross each other at right angles, 
 their general width being about fifty feet, though there are several of a 
 hundred feet and more in width. The streets of Philadelphia are said 
 to be the best paved and the best kept of any city in the Union, and, 
 perhaps, taken as a whole, of any large city in the world. The old cob- 
 blestones have nearly all been removed. The business part of the city 
 is generally paved with granite blocks, while most of the main drive- 
 ways and suburban streets have sheet asphalt or vitrified brick pave- 
 ments. Broad Street in Philadelphia (113 feet wide) has a continuous 
 asphalt pavement, broken only in two places, for a distance of twelve 
 miles, and affords one of the most magnificent avenues for bicycle-riding, 
 carriages, and great processions to be found in the world. Of the re- 
 maining wide avenues Spring Garden Street, Diamond Street, and Fair- 
 mount, Girard, and Columbia Avenues are the principal carriage drives 
 to the great Park. Of the business streets Chestnut and Eighth stand 
 first in retail trade, while Second Street is said to enjoy the distinction 
 of being the longest continuous line of stores in the world. Nearly every 
 important street has its electric trolley-car, which has completely sup- 
 planted the old-style horse-car. Since the introduction of the electric 
 car in 1892 the suburban districts of the city have grown with marvel- 
 ous rapidity, and the stranger visiting Germantown, Mount Airy, Tioga, 
 or the sections of West Philadelphia in the vicinity of the Park will be 
 struck with the magnitude of the building enterprise, as well as with 
 the architectural beauty, taste, and, frequently, magnificence displayed. 
 
 The home-life and home-building spirit of Philadelphia's inhabitants 
 have contributed powerfully to the interests of education, morality, and 
 
PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 347 
 
 religion. The city is an acknowledged leader in practical educational 
 matters. Her art and industrial schools, medical and other scientific 
 colleges, and great libraries are famous throughout the country. To 
 attempt a catalogue of these would be to encroach too far upon the space 
 at command. 
 
 The education of the masses and facilities for reading and scientific 
 investigation have always been foremost in the minds of the city's 
 
 PENFS RESIDENCE ON SECOND STREET BELOW CHESTNUT. 
 
 philanthropists. Girard College, with an endowment now valued at 
 $7,000,000, is the munificent gift of a French sailor, Stephen Girard, who 
 afterwards became the great Philadelphia merchant, and dying left this 
 magnificent bequest for the education of poor orphan boys. Probably 
 no institution in Philadelphia is more talked of and excites more general 
 interest, certainly none is more visited by strangers. The institution 
 was founded in 1830. The Girard College buildings occupy a space of 
 forty-one acres. The main structure is among the finest examples of 
 
348 PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 Corinthian architecture, and its transcendent beauty is everywhere 
 acknowledged as having no rival on this continent as a piece of monu- 
 mental architecture. All of the principal buildings in the inclosure are 
 of white marble. The alumni of this institution are numbered by thou- 
 sands, and we understand there are always in waiting from one to two 
 hundred approved applicants to fill places as fast as vacancies occur. 
 
 Another educational enterprise of leading importance is the Drexel 
 Institute of Art, Science, and Industry, which was opened to the public 
 early in 1892, and for which the city is indebted to Mr. Anthony J. 
 Drexel, who donated $2,000,000 for this useful purpose. Architecturally 
 this magnificent building is a pure example of the classic renaissance. 
 This institution has very extensive libraries, and in the reading-room is 
 to be found one of the rarest collections of manuscripts in the city, which 
 was presented by Mr. George W. Childs, the lifelong friend of Mr. Drexel. 
 This structure is said to be unsurpassed by any educational building in 
 the world in appointments, laboratory facilities, and general adaptation 
 to the purposes for which it was intended, as well as in its architectural 
 beauty. It is altogether the most promising educational institution of 
 its peculiar kind in the country. The rates of tuition are low, with many 
 free scholarships. There are departments of art, science, and all branches 
 of business and industrial training, conducted upon the most recent and 
 approved ideas of physical, industrial, and artistic instruction. 
 
 Besides her many large institutions for special training, such as those 
 referred to, there are four hundred and twenty-five public schools in the 
 city, attended by over 132,000 pupils, and employing 3160-odd teachers. 
 The Philadelphia High School confers collegiate degrees upon those who 
 complete its course of study. 
 
 In point of morality and religion Philadelphia again ranks first among 
 the large cities of the continent. In point of population, as has already 
 been observed, Philadelphia and Chicago are almost equal, yet it requires 
 3300 policemen to keep order in Chicago, while 2500 do the same work 
 in Philadelphia. Highway robbery in the Quaker City is a rare offense, 
 there being only eighty-five arrests on this charge in the year 1896, 
 whereas in the metropolis of the West there were between four and five 
 hundred arrests for the same offense. Other serious crimes are compara- 
 tively as infrequent. In deference to Chicago and New York, however, 
 
PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 349 
 
 it is only just to state that the criminal class is largely their transient 
 element, which in both of these cities is far greater than in Philadelphia. 
 
 .wuJ^ ^ 
 
 1 ih 
 
 BEAR VIEW INDEPENDENCE HALL, PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 The transient population of Chicago on the average is estimated at 
 75,000, while that of Philadelphia is only one-fifth as great. 
 
350 PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 If the religious sentiment of a community is to be judged by the 
 number of its churches, Philadelphia again ranks first. She has nearly 
 seven hundred churches, which is a larger number in proportion to the 
 population than any other city in the world. There are also two hundred 
 and thirty-two Christian Endeavor Societies in the Philadelphia Union — 
 this being the largest in the organization. Six hundred and twenty 
 Sunday Schools are attended by 180,000 youths, who are instructed by 
 17,000 teachers. John Wanamaker's Sunday School (as the school of 
 Bethany Presbyterian Church is usually called) is a source of great 
 interest to visitors, as is also that of the magnificent Temple Church, 
 over which the famous pulpit and platform orator, Eussell H. Con well, 
 presides as pastor. Both of these Sunday Schools are among the largest 
 in the country. 
 
 Another item that strikes the traveler on visiting Philadelphia is the 
 conspicuous scarcity of beggars and mendicants on the streets. It was 
 the gigantic hero-king of Sweden, Gustavus Adolphus, who first planned 
 to found on the banks of the Delaware a city " where every man should 
 have enough to eat and toleration to worship God as he chose." This 
 intention of the great king, though done by other hands, has been accom- 
 plished more fully perhaps than in any other large city in the w r orld. 
 The wonderful markets of Philadelphia — forty-four in number — are un- 
 rivaled elsewhere in America. Their plentiful and varied supplies insure 
 enough to eat to every man who will work, and her diversity of manu- 
 facturing enterprises insures employment to all who desire to labor. 
 
 Religious toleration is manifest from the nearly seven hundred 
 churches, embracing almost every religious faith, from those represented 
 by the grand Catholic Cathedrals of St. Peter and St. Paul and the swell- 
 ing domes of the Jewish Synagogue down to the bare little meeting- 
 houses of the Friends. 
 
 Again, no American city surpasses this in the wealth, of its historical 
 associations, especially as relating to the founding of our great Republic. 
 On Second Street, just north of Chestnut, on the site now occupied by 
 the Commercial Exchange Building, stood the famous " Slate-roof House," 
 occupied at different times by William Penn, John Adams, John Han- 
 cock, and Benedict Arnold. On the same street, not far away, still 
 stands the old Christ Church, which dates from 1695. It was here that 
 
PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 351 
 
 Washington worshiped, and in the graveyard belonging to it, at Fifth 
 and Arch Streets, Benjamin Franklin is buried. In the same neighbor- 
 hood, on Letitia Street, stood Penn's cottage, the first brick building 
 erected in Philadelphia. This was, however, removed to Fairmont Park 
 in the centennial year, 1876, where it is now the object of great attrac- 
 tion to visitors. On Chestnut Street between Third and Fourth, shut 
 in by tall modern structures, stands a two-story brick building. This 
 is the famous Carpenters' Hall, erected in 1770, where many town meet- 
 
 THE DEEXEL INSTITUTE, PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 ings were held, and on June 18, 1776, the first Continental Congress 
 held its session here, and the magical eloquence of Patrick Henry, John 
 Adams, and other revolutionary orators and heroes inspired the patriots 
 to declare for American independence ; and it was from this hall that 
 they adjourned to take possession of old Independence Hall, in which 
 the declaration of our liberty was signed. A splendid library and many 
 revolutionary relics, including autograph letters from the heroes of that 
 period, will occupy hours of the visitors' time. Scarcely a square away, 
 
352 PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 on Chestnut Street, stands the most famous and the most revered build- 
 ing in the United States, old Independence Hall. It was finished in 
 1735, and cost the modest sum of less than $25,000. In a room on the 
 ground floor of this building Congress passed the famous Declaration of 
 Independence, and this room has ever since been a shrine to which 
 multitudes of patriots have journeyed. In front of the low and unpre- 
 tentious entrance stands a statue of George Washington, which cost 
 almost as much as the building itself, and was erected from penny con- 
 tributions collected from the school children of Philadelphia. Once 
 inside the room the visitor is struck with the multitude of faces with 
 which he has been familiar in school history, hanging on the walls 
 around him. They are the oil portraits of the signers of the Declaration 
 of Independence. Upon a platform at one end of the room are preserved 
 the tables and chairs said to have been used on that eventful occasion. 
 In the centre of the room, in a large glass case excluding the air, sits 
 the most sacred relic of the nation — " Old Liberty Bell " — which formerly 
 hung in the tower rising above the building, and is said to have been 
 rung at the moment of the signing of the Declaration of Independence. 
 In the west room of the building, across the hallway, is a museum of 
 l evolutionary relics, where many hours may be spent by one interested 
 in the study. At the top of the stairway will be found the assembly 
 halls used by the Senate and Congress during George Washington's 
 second term as President. It was in this hall that Washington delivered 
 his famous farewell address. In the rear of the building is Independ- 
 ence Square, where the old town meetings used to be held. In 1898 the 
 building was thoroughly repaired and put in its original form, as nearly 
 as it was possible to do so. The cost of doing this was in the neighbor- 
 hood of $100,000. 
 
 Two squares from Independence Hall, at Seventh and Market Streets, 
 now occupied by the Penn National Bank, stood the old tavern where 
 Jefferson boarded, and where it is said he wrote the Declaration of 
 Independence. 
 
 At 239 Arch Street we look upon a low, insignificant, two-story build- 
 ing, with its old moss-covered roof, and wonder why it has been permitted 
 to stand on the valuable ground so long. On approaching nearer our 
 surprise departs when we read over the low doorway : " The house in 
 
PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 353 
 
 which the first American flag was made." It was here that George 
 Washington, with a committee from Congress, visited the Quaker seam- 
 stress, Betsy Eoss, and gave her directions for making the new American 
 flag. It was in the little room over the front door that the first banner 
 bearing the stars and stripes was sewn together, and it was in front of 
 that low, unpretentious doorway that its fluttering folds, which have 
 attracted the admiring gaze of the whole world, were first flung to the 
 breeze. 
 
 CITY HALL, PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 Many other places of historic interest may be found in this immediate 
 section of the city, but for want of space we pass them by, as we must, 
 also, do famous places in the suburbs, where the old Chew house in 
 German town, at one time Washington's headquarters during the Eevo- 
 lution, the house once owned by Benedict Arnold in Fairmount Park, the 
 house in which Benjamin West, the great painter, was born, and many 
 other historic buildings erected one hundred and fifty years ago, are still 
 standing, and attract and impress the visitor, no less with their quaint 
 
354 PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 appearance than by the lessons of the past, which speak in silent 
 eloquence from walls which once resounded to the steps and echoed the 
 voices of Washington, Adams, Patrick Henry, Benjamin Franklin, and 
 others. 
 
 Aside from these historic edifices and shrines of patriotism, standing 
 as mute monuments of a departed century, the visitor turns to feast his 
 eyes upon the more elaborate beauties and grander proportions of modern 
 architectual piles, of which Philadelphia has some of the finest in 
 America. Foremost among them is the Philadelphia Public Building, 
 the largest municipal structure in the world, and the largest building in 
 America, not excepting the Capitol at Washington. This huge white 
 marble pile rises above the city in mammoth proportions, which reduce 
 to pigmies the giant buildings that stand around it. This magnificent 
 structure at the intersection of Broad and Market Streets occupies the 
 plot of ground once known as Penn Square, and is 486i feet in length 
 north and south, and 470 feet in width, covering an area of four and 
 one-half acres — exclusive of the courtyard in the centre, which is two 
 hundred feet square, and the grand avenue 205 feet wide on the northern 
 front and 135 feet on the others. The building contains five hundred 
 and twenty rooms, besides the offices of the city government, and sur- 
 mounting the splendid structure on the north side is a tower which rises 
 to the altitude of 547i feet, terminating in a colossal statue of William 
 Penn, thirty-six feet in height. This is the tallest occupied building in 
 the world, and the most lofty structure ever erected except the Eiffel 
 Tower of Paris and the Washington Monument. The latter exceeds it 
 in altitude less than three feet. A better conception of its comparative 
 height may be gained by noting that the height to the top of William 
 Penn's hat from the ground is nearly double that of the dome of the 
 National Capitol, is sixty-seven feet greater than that of the Great 
 Pyramid, and is ninety-nine feet above the top of St. Peter's Church at 
 Eome. 
 
 Internally the building is adorned with a large amount of statuary, 
 while on the outside gigantic figures look down from numerous lofty 
 pediments. 
 
 In the immediate vicinity of the City Hall are other buildings which 
 are worthy of special notice. The Masonic Temple, whose cornerstone 
 
PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 355 
 
 was laid in 1868, in the presence of 10,000 of the fraternity, is an 
 imposing structure, comprising altogether ten large lodge-rooms and 
 several banquet halls, and, surmounted by a tower 250 feet high, is in 
 grandeur of dimensions and artistic beauty of decoration said to have no 
 equal among the Masonic Temples of the world. It is the only large 
 Masonic Temple in this country which is exclusively devoted to fraternal 
 purposes. The Masonic Temple in Chicago is a much larger structure, 
 and, with its twenty-one stories, is the tallest building in Chicago, but 
 more than two-thirds of it is devoted to business purposes. 
 
 NEW TERMINAL STATION AND MARKET-HOUSE OF READING RAILROAD. 
 
 {Erected in 1892.) 
 
 Two squares north on Broad Street stands the new Odd Fellows' Hall, 
 a beautiful example of Italian renaissance architecture, ascending to the 
 height of nine stories. It is built of marble, terra-cotta, and Pompeian 
 brick, and presents the harmonious effect of simplicity, beauty, and 
 solidity. 
 
 Immediately south of the City Hall stands the lofty and imposing Betz 
 
 Building, reminding one forcibly of the towering structures of Chicago, 
 
 among the most striking example of this class of edifices in the eastern 
 
 section of the country. It rises to the height of thirteen stories above 
 
 23 
 
356 PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 the street, with a two-story basement below. Adjoining this is the 
 Girard Building, nine stories high and surmounted by a tower. In this 
 building are located the University Law School and the Biddle Law 
 Library. 
 
 Philadelphia also claims first honor among American cities for her 
 splendid railroad terminals. The new Terminal Station of the Philadel- 
 phia and Heading Kailroad at Twelfth and Market Streets and of the 
 Pennsylvania Railroad opposite the City Hall are architectural master- 
 pieces whose counterpart cannot be found in the railroad terminals of 
 any American city and are claimed to be the largest structures of the 
 kind on earth. At the latter station five hundred and thirty scheduled 
 passenger trains arrive and depart daily, 60,000 passengers being the 
 daily average ; and, between the hours of five and eight o'clock P.M., 
 fifty trains arrive and eighty depart. The passenger travel to and from 
 the Philadelphia and Reading and Baltimore and Ohio Stations, while 
 not so extensive, is also very large. 
 
 We regret that space does not permit us to include a detailed descrip- 
 tion of scores of other attractive structures equally as interesting. 
 
 To the pleasure-seeker who wishes to see city life in its highest and 
 lowest degrees, measured by the scale of social excellence and depravity, 
 Philadelphia does not offer the attractions to be found in New York or 
 Chicago; but to one who desires to enjoy the quieter pleasures and 
 delights of natural scenery and rural beauty on historic ground, sur- 
 rounded by the monuments of the past, and yet in the midst of a great 
 commercial and manufacturing community, there is no better place tc 
 visit than the old Quaker City. William Penn not only originally laid 
 it out with large squares and gave plenty of room to the dwellings, that 
 it might look like a "greene country town," but in addition to this he 
 provided for a large number of small parks and public squares. There 
 are thirty- two of these parks in the city, occupying from one to two 
 large squares in space, filled with gigantic trees, lifting their green tops 
 above the surrounding dwellings. In addition to these, Fairmount Park, 
 with an area of nearly 3000 acres, is the largest city park in the world, 
 extending twelve miles from its southern extremity on Spring Garden 
 Street to its northern boundaries. Throughout its entire length is a 
 magnificent river drive, the counterpart of which perhaps is not to be 
 
PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 357 
 
 found on either side of the Atlantic, running four miles along the banks 
 of the Schuylkill River, and eight miles among the wilds of the Wissa- 
 hickon Creek. On holiday occasions this river drive is an animated 
 scene, made up of every variety of vehicle, from the most fashionable 
 turnout to the country wagon, contending for space with the ever-present 
 and insuppressible bicyle. 
 
 Though this park is surrounded on both sides by the city, one can 
 scarcely conceive in driving along the Wissahickon Creek that he is not 
 in the depths of an unbroken wilderness. Above him on either side rise 
 the precipitous cliffs 
 and sloping hills, 
 crowned with the 
 same primeval for- 
 ests which once 
 echoed to the war- 
 hoop and the song 
 of the native savage. 
 In this park are fifty 
 miles of driveways 
 and one hundred 
 miles of walks and 
 bridlepaths. The 
 trolley line through 
 the park, completed 
 in 1897, affords un- 
 usual facilities for 
 seeing some of its wildest beauties in a short space of time. The course 
 of the car forms a belt line. Starting from Memorial Hall the circuit 
 is made and the car returns to the starting-point in less than an hour's 
 time. 
 
 In the southern part of the Park the Centennial Exhibition of 1876 
 was held, and Memorial Hall and Horticultural Hall, built at that time, 
 still remain. This part of the Park is also made more attractive by 
 numerous pieces of choice statuary and a number of old historic and 
 colonial mansions where wealthy subjects of King George lived in ba- 
 ronial splendor surrounded by retinues of slaves, and cultivated their 
 
 BEAR PITS, ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN". 
 
358 PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 broad acres, long before the revolutionary period. In this part of the 
 Park also is situated the Zoological Garden, the largest in the country, 
 occupying thirty-five acres, the collection including about one thousand 
 live specimens, to which the records show 250,000 visitors, including 
 50,000 school children, are admitted annually, at the price of twenty-five 
 cents for adults and ten cents for children, except on Saturdays and 
 legal holidays, when ten cents is the uniform price for all. 
 
 On May 15, 1897, the Washington Monument was unveiled in Fair- 
 mount Park by President McKinley. The occasion was one memorable 
 in the history of Philadelphia. More than one hundred thousand people 
 lined the streets along which the President and other national celebrities 
 passed from the centre of the city to the Park, and it is estimated that 
 from the lawns and tops of buildings and the water- works hillside in the 
 vicinity at least 50,000 patriotic Americans witnessed the falling of the 
 canvas which veiled the matchless statue of America's matchless chief. 
 
 This monument is considered the most important group of sculpture 
 ever built in America. 
 
 It has not been the province of this article to treat Philadelphia 
 historically. The few statistics following will enable the visitor to 
 refresh his memory. The city was founded in 1682 by William Penn, 
 as the capital city of his new province of Pennsylvania. Its site had 
 been occupied for many years by Swedish colonists, whose claims Penn 
 satisfied, as he also did those of the Indians, by purchase, though he had a 
 grant of the territory from the crown of England. Penn and his associates 
 were members of the Society of Friends, or Quakers, the descendants of 
 whom still form an important element of the population. For one 
 hundred and seventeen years this "greene country town," as it has 
 been called, continued to be the capital of Pennsylvania, and grew so 
 rapidly in population that throughout the colonial period and long 
 afterwards, as has already been stated, it was the most important town, 
 politically, commercially and socially, on American soil. The first 
 printing press in the colonies was set up here in 1685. It was in 1723 
 that Benjamin Franklin, Philadelphia's most distinguished citizen, came 
 to the city, and it is to his enterprise that the town owes several of its 
 most noble institutions. Philadelphia was, with brief exceptions, the 
 seat of the nation's government from the meeting of the first Congress in 
 
PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 359 
 
 1774 until the establishment of Washington as the seat of government 
 in 1800. It was here that Washington, the Father of his Country, retired 
 from public life. Here in 1731 was founded the first bank of the United 
 States and Bank of North America, and in 1792 the first mint for the 
 coinage of money in the United States, and it is still the leading mint 
 in the nation in point of the volume of its coinage. The Protestant 
 Episcopal Church of America was organized here in 1786, and in 1791 
 the original Bank of the United States, subsequently suppressed by 
 President Jackson, was established here. The original city as laid out 
 by Penn was of narrow dimensions, being two miles wide between the 
 rivers, and one mile long, extending from Yine to South Street. Of 
 recent events in the history of Philadelphia, the most important was the 
 holding here of the Centennial World's Fair in 1876. The display made 
 was one which at that time had never been surpassed, and it proved a 
 useful object lesson to the people of the whole country. 
 
 MEMORIAL HALL OF 1876. 
 
XXXVI. 
 
 CHICAGO, • 
 
 The Magic City of the World. 
 
 HE visitor of Chicago is struck with wonder. Nowhere 
 else on the globe are so many tall buildings to be 
 seen and in no other spot has a great city of more 
 than one and a quarter millions of inhabitants 
 grown up within a short space of six decades. It 
 was in the year 1837 that the village of Chicago with 
 a population of 4170 souls was organized under the 
 laws of Illinois into a city. Fifty-three years later — 
 in 1890 — the United States census declared her pop- 
 ulation to be 1,098,576. Since 1890 she has made 
 remarkable growth, the estimated population in 1898 being 1,700,000. 
 After making due allowance for all enthusiastic exaggeration, it is entirely 
 safe to say the census of 1900 will number her inhabitants beyond one 
 and a quarter millions. 
 
 (360) 
 
CHICAGO. -361 
 
 In point of population, Chicago was in 1890 the second city of the 
 Union and the sixth city of the world — London, Paris, Vienna, Berlin, 
 and New York only exceeding her in number of inhabitants. 
 
 But Chicago is not only great in population. As a centre of transpor- 
 tation, she claims the honor of the first city in the world. It is interest- 
 ing to note the comparative statistics even between this city of the 
 plains and New York. Fifty years ago, Lake Michigan was Chicago's 
 only means of communicating with the east. There were no railroads, 
 and at that time the great northwest was a veritable wilderness. It was 
 not until 1833 that an attempt was made to establish a harbor on Lake 
 Michigan at this point. In that year Congress appropriated $25,000 for 
 the purpose. The little harbor, thus opened, has to-day seven miles of 
 piers and seven light-houses maintained by the Government. No one 
 would think of comparing the volume of Chicago's water shipping with 
 that of New York, and yet the facts show that in 1894 this inland city- - 
 by water nearly 2000 miles from the ocean — entered and cleared 16,768 
 vessels, while New York entered and cleared only 14,121. Of course the 
 tonnage of New York vessels was so much greater that she held the 
 balance in her favor so far as bulk was concerned ; but who would have 
 supposed Chicago entered and cleared over 2000 more vessels in a year 
 than New York ? 
 
 But it is when we come to consider railway shipping and passenger 
 traffic the " Garden City " of the West surpasses every other municipality 
 on the globe. Practically, Chicago is the terminal point of all great 
 trunk-lines of railway, north, south, east, and west, in the United States, 
 Canada, and Mexico. It is admitted to be the greatest railway centre in 
 the world. Over 90,000 miles of railroad centre in Chicago at the 
 present time, and estimates have been made, which taken together, by 
 water and rail combined, show that more passengers arrive and depart 
 and more merchandise is received and shipped daily than at any other 
 point on the earth. 
 
 Whether it be enthusiasm on the part of travelers in consideration of 
 the youth of the city, or whether they are carried away by the rush and 
 momentum of its business enterprise and the wonder at so many sky- 
 scraping structures, we know not, but it is quite common for those who 
 h<3.ve seen all the great cities of the world to declare that Chicago is the 
 
362 CHICAGO. 
 
 most magnificently built city on this sphere. This appears the more 
 wonderful in view of the fact that less than thirty years ago (1871) the 
 entire business district and much of the residence section were wiped out 
 by a great conflagration in which, within twenty-four hours, 18,000 build- 
 ings w r ere destroyed and about 200 lives w T ere lost. E. P. Roe's novel, 
 "Barriers Burned Away," gives perhaps the most vivid picture ever 
 written of this great holocaust which started on Sunday night, October 
 8, 1871, as tradition declared, from the explosion of a lamp kicked over 
 by a cow in the shed where she was being milked. The total area com- 
 pletely devastated covers about three and a quarter square miles, and it 
 is from the a^shes of this devastation that the queenly new city has 
 arisen, Phoenix-like, to dazzle and astonish the world. 
 
 Chicago is justly proud of these big and substantial buildings designed 
 and finished in the most approved and popular architectural art, with 
 fittings and appointments for convenience and comfort nowhere else 
 so universally found. All these great edifices are practically new r , 
 and her hotels and office structures have advantages, as a rule, far 
 beyond those enjoyed in any of our older cities. 
 
 The visitor is astonished when told that Chicago has upwards of 800 
 regular hotels, with accommodations for 200,000 people, besides innumer- 
 able boarding-houses. But it will be recognized that these facilities for 
 housing transients is none too great when it is remembered that Chicago 
 has an average of 75,000 strangers constantly within her gates. Com- 
 pare this with Philadelphia's 15,000 transients (these two cities by the 
 census of 1890 were almost the same size), and it will not be surprising 
 that Chicago can support five times as many hotels as her Quaker sister 
 on the Delaware. In this connection it should also be said the prevail- 
 ing opinion in the east, that rates of hotels in the w T est are exorbitant, 
 is erroneous. The writer has made comparison from considerable exper- 
 ience in New York, Philadelphia, Boston, and Washington, and, if there 
 is a difference, his judgment is in favor of Chicago as furnishing better 
 accommodations to the transient, for the same price, than any of our 
 great eastern cities. 
 
 Chicago's many attractive pleasure grounds and her wide flower and 
 shrubbery-lined boulevards have given it the name of the " Garden City." 
 Within its limits are twenty-eight parks and public squares, covering an 
 
CHICAGO. 
 
 363 
 
 area of 1975 acres, exclusive of the miles of space devoted to boulevards 
 which are really a part of the park system. 
 
 The visitor is also struck by the absence of graveyards in the city. 
 In New York, Philadelphia, and Boston we find them right in the heart 
 of business centres. In Chicago, all cemeteries, large and small, are 
 located on the far outskirts. The same absence of churches hemmed in 
 
 THE BURNING OF CHICAGO IN 1871. 
 
 by business blocks or along business streets is also noticeable. All the 
 leading churches, with the single exception, perhaps, of the First Method- 
 ist Church, are removed to the extent of a street-car trip from the hotels 
 and depots of the business section. 
 
 As an educational centre, Chicago has already taken a high stand and 
 her outlook for the future is most promising. Its twenty-four daily and 
 nearly 500 weekly and monthly newspapers and periodicals rank favor- 
 
364 CHICAGO. 
 
 ably with those of other American cities. Its libraries and reading-rooms 
 are numerous, conducted on the most liberal terms, under the latest and 
 most approved system, and are largely attended. The great public 
 library, organized in 1872, has outgrown its quarters several times. 
 The nucleus of this library was formed by the generosity of the English 
 and American publishers who donated volumes for that purpose after 
 the great fire. This library now numbers about 200,000 volumes. Its 
 present quarters are in the City Hall (on the top floor), and its daily 
 average is 6000 books put in circulation. The city pays $100,000 a 
 year for the maintenance of this institution, and they are now erecting a 
 fine library building for it on Michigan Avenue, fronting the lake. 
 
 The public schools are all new and modern in their architecture, san- 
 itation, and conveniences. Nothing either in their equipment or methods 
 is obsolete. The same system of substantial progress which marks the 
 business enterprise of the city characterizes her educational spirit. Aside 
 from her splendid public schools, there are many colleges and universi- 
 ties in the city and its immediate vicinity. These cover all the branches 
 of educational training in literary, scientific, and professional courses. 
 
 The new Chicago University has perhaps the greatest promise for the 
 future of any institution in the country. It was endowed by John D. 
 Rockefeller of New York in 1889 with $600,000, and in 1890 with 
 $1,000,000 more, to which Marshall Field of Chicago added a gift of 
 land. Mr. Rockefeller has later made other large bequests to the insti- 
 tution, which with receipts from other sources increases its possessions to 
 several millions of dollars. The new Yerkes Observatory, opened under 
 the auspices of this University in November, 1 897, contains the most 
 powerful telescope in the world. Prior to this, the Lick Observatory of 
 California with its 36-inch lens claimed first place; but the 40-inch 
 glass of the Yerkes telescope gives it twenty-five per cent, greater power, 
 and makes Chicago headquarters of the world for astronomical observa- 
 tions. 
 
 Chicago's great industries are numerous. Prominent among them are 
 the Union Stock Yards and the Pullman Car Company. The Stock 
 Yards were established in 1865 and have grown to be by far the largest 
 live-stock market in the world, having facilities for handling at one time 
 50,000 beef cattle, 200,000 hogs, 30,000 sheep, and 5000 horses. The 
 
CHICAGO. 
 
 365 
 
 yards have an area of about 400 acres and 400,000 pens, half of which 
 are covered. It has twenty miles of driveway, twenty miles of watering- 
 troughs, and fifty miles of feeding-troughs. The cost of the plant has 
 been many millions of dollars. About 1000 men are kept constantly 
 employed in the yards. The idea of the enormous business can be formed 
 from the statement of the company in 1894, showing that they handled 
 during that year about 15,000,000 head of live-stock which came to them 
 
 O^&o " 
 
 THE AUDITORIUM BUILDING, CHICAGO. 
 
 in 287,052 cars — an average of over 900 carloads of live-stock a day — 
 the total valuation of the stock handled for the year being nearly $250,- 
 000,000. 
 
 The Pullman Car Company, now located at the town of Pullman, which 
 is really a suburb of Chicago, is capitalized at $20,000,000, all paid up, 
 it is claimed, without any watered stock. The company practically owns 
 the town of Pullman with its factories, machine shops, and residences, the 
 
366 CHICAGO. 
 
 policy of the company being to lease rather than to sell to its operatives. 
 This company was founded in 1867, with a capital of $1,000,000, in the 
 city of Chicago. It was in 1880 that Mr. Pullman founded the city of 
 Pullman on the shore of Lake Calumet, twelve miles south of Chicago. 
 Over $600,000 was spent underground by the company on a scientific 
 drainage and sewage system before a house was erected, and then the 
 best landscape gardeners, civil engineers, and architects laid out the 
 city, designing its public buildings, parks, theatres, churches, and fac- 
 tories. The traveler passing on the train is struck with the beauty of 
 the little city. It is one of the places of the country to which foreign 
 visitors are always attracted. 
 
 Besides the above two gigantic enterprises, Chicago's manufactories 
 are of great extent and variety. $8,000,000 is invested in making 
 agricultural implements ; $3,000,000 in carriage factories ; $7,000,000 
 in furniture; $8,000,000 in clothing; $7,000,000 in leather; $20,000,- 
 000 in iron and steel; $16,000,000 in lumber; $8,000,000 in printing; 
 $15,000,000 in malt and distilled liquors ; besides there are many other 
 manufacturing industries with upwards of $3,000,000 invested in each. 
 
 Among the principal sights in Chicago, aside from those already 
 referred to, we w T ould suggest a visit to the Auditorium, the Masonic 
 Temple, the Court House or City Hall, and the new Postoffice, now in 
 course of construction, as representative of her great buildings. The 
 Auditorium was finished in 1890 at the cost of $3,500,000. This enor- 
 mous structure fronts on three of the chief streets, presenting impos- 
 ing and commanding facades of Romanesque architecture. It is as 
 nearly fireproof as a building can be made, being constructed of granite, 
 limestone, iron, and steel ; nothing in the building inflammable except 
 the furniture. The Auditorium building comprises many handsome 
 stores and 136 offices, but these are a small part of the vast structure. 
 The theatre in the building is the largest and said to be the most sump- 
 tuous theatre and opera house in the world. Its regular seating ca- 
 pacity is 4100, which can be enlarged to 8000 when necessity requires. 
 The building also contains a recital hall, furnished in cream and gold, 
 seating 500 persons. In the same building is also comprised the hotel, 
 including 400 guest-rooms, with a grand-dining-room and kitchen on the 
 tenth floor and a banquet hall built in steel on trusses over the theatre. 
 
CHICAGO. 
 
 367 
 
 Above it all rises a grand tower, which has become one of the notable 
 sights of Chicago. Few visitors of the city fail to go to its summit, for 
 there can be obtained a view always to be remembered. The Tower 
 Observatory is 270 feet high, and its seventeenth, eighteenth, and nine- 
 teenth stories are occupied by the United States Signal Service Offices. 
 
 The Masonic Temple with its twenty stories and a roof-garden enjoys 
 the distinction of being the tallest occupied building in the world, with- 
 out counting a tower to make up its altitude. The first sixteen stories 
 of this building are used for office and store purposes. The seventeenth 
 
 LIBBY PRISON IBT 1884, BEFORE ITS REMOVAL TO CHICAGO. 
 
 and eighteenth stories are used exclusively by the Masonic fraternity 
 and contain many lodge-rooms. The main entrance is very imposing, 
 and once inside the visitor is struck almost with awe as he strains his 
 neck back to look up the magnificent white-polished open court out 
 through the skylight at the top. 
 
 The City Hall is an imposing edifice. The structure is built of 
 limestone, in the French renaissance style of architecture, at a cost of 
 about $4,000,000. The new Postoffice, now in course of construction, 
 is estimated to cost, when finished, nearly as much. 
 
368 CHICAGO. 
 
 Chicago is not a city of monuments. She has no Revolutionary or 
 ancient history for the sculptor to carve in stone or to model in bronze. 
 The one most historic spot is occupied by the Fort Dearborn Monument, 
 commemorating the massacre of 1812. The monument represents an 
 Indian assault on a small band of whites and perpetuates a story which 
 will never lose its interest. When brave Captain Wells with some fifty 
 regular soldiers, several officers and their wives and children, making in 
 all a party of about eighty, were attacked and butchered on this spot by 
 the treacherous savages on August 15, 1812, it is said that the only 
 survivor of the massacre was a boy then about ten years old. This boy, 
 grown to a very old man, was at the World's Fair in 1893. 
 
 Old Libby Prison, in which many thousands of the Union forces were 
 confined during the War of Secession, also stands in Chicago. It was 
 bought at Richmond, Virginia, in 1888, and taken down and removed to 
 Chicago, where its walls enshrine a museum of war relics. 
 
 The water-works of Chicago also constitute an attraction to many 
 visitors. The supply is drawn from Lake Michigan, and it was formerly 
 a standing menace to the health of the city on account of the drainage 
 from the Chicago River polluting the water ; but by an extra feat of 
 engineering, the river was made to flow into the Illinois River instead of 
 into the lake, and the water for the city is taken from a crib two miles 
 out in Lake Michigan, whence it passes through a submarine tunnel to 
 the shore and is pumped into a stand pipe 175 feet high. Thus Chicago, 
 for the want of hills, has no water reservoirs like New York, Philadel- 
 phia, and other large cities. 
 
 The parks of Chicago have cost about $12,000,000, and almost sur- 
 round the city with a belt of verdure. Lincoln Park on the north side 
 is 31 acres, and is the home of a magnificent zoological garden. In the 
 vicinity of this is Humboldt Park, 194 acres. On the west side stands 
 Garfield Park with 185 acres, and Douglas Park with 171 acres. The 
 eastern side of the lake-shore, with its magnificent new park and rows 
 of trees between the railroad and the city, form a connecting link most 
 of the way from Lincoln Park on the north to the great south-side parks, 
 where the World's Fair was held in 1893. 
 
 It is proper to say in this connection that the "White City" of the 
 World's Fair has completely disappeared and is now a magnificent park. 
 
CHICAGO. 
 
 369 
 
 The great Exposition, which in 1893 made Chicago the centre of the 
 world, has gone into history. The only link between the past and the 
 present remaining to keep alive pleasant memories on this spot is that 
 masterpiece of architecture, the Art Building. This inspiring edifice is 
 now the home of the Field Columbian Museum, an institution which 
 emphasizes Chicago's metropolitan character. 
 
 This museum has the whole world for its scope, and its nucleus was 
 formed by the contribution of 
 rare objects of interest by ex- 
 hibitors from every land at the 
 Exposition. Marshall Field en- 
 dowed the museum with $1,- 
 000,000, and two other Chicago 
 citizens gave $100,000 each. 
 The entire donations to the in- 
 stitution have now approxi- 
 mated $2,000,000. Besides 
 the permanent exhibit at the 
 museum, a course of popular 
 lectures has been established 
 and several scientific expedi- 
 tions sent into the field for aug- 
 menting its collections. The 
 museum was dedicated and 
 opened to the public on June 
 2, 1894. 
 
 In point of amusement and 
 entertainment, it is only neces- 
 sary to say that no visitor need ever get lonesome in Chicago. There are 
 courses of lectures and theatres and places of amusement in abundance; 
 but to the visitor from Philadelphia or Boston, who happens to sojourn in 
 the Lake City on Sunday, the contrast between the observance of the day 
 in Chicago and our old eastern cities is very noticeable. While all busi- 
 ness is suspended as in other cities, the theatres and drinking saloons 
 and all places of amusement are kept wide open ; and to the theatres, 
 no doubt, this is their harvest-day of all the seven. 
 
 SECTION" OF CHICAGO STOCK-TABDS, THE 
 LARGEST IN THE WOULD. 
 
370 
 
 CHICAGO. 
 
 In the light of Chicago's present magnitude, a visitor can hardly 
 realize that in the year 1800 this great metropolis was a swamp ; in 
 1812 a military post and a scene of a terrible Indian massacre ; in 1830 
 a group of twelve houses, without postoffice or mail-route ; in 1840 an 
 incorporated city with about 5000 inhabitants ; in 1850 still without 
 
 railway communication with 
 the east; in 1871 practically 
 wiped out by a great fire ; in 
 1898 the second citv of the 
 Union, the sixth city of the 
 world, the greatest railroad 
 centre, the largest live-stock 
 market, and the leading grain 
 port of the earth ! 
 
 With this sure retrospect 
 of making a phenomenal prog- 
 ress, we turn our faces to the 
 future and ask, What have the 
 next fifty years in store for 
 Chicago ? Will she, as her en- 
 terprising citizens declare they 
 believe, become the greatest 
 citv of the world ? 
 
 The world's answer to this 
 question is emphatically No; 
 but to the enthusiastic resi- 
 dent of Chicago, to whom 
 "faith is the substance of 
 
 OLD HAYMAEKET PLAZA, CHICAGO. 
 
 This monument shows the spot where on May 3, 1886, a dynamite bomb 
 was thrown by anarchists into a group of policemen, killing seven, crip- 
 pling eleven for life, and injuring twelve others so they were unable to do things hoped for the evidence 
 
 duty for a year. ™ 
 
 of things not seen," there is 
 no doubt that not only New York, biit London herself, must be out- 
 stripped, and that the Queen City of the inland lakes will be the me- 
 tropolis of the world. It is such faith as this, whether justified or not, 
 that has made and will continue to make Chicago great 
 
— -jj-teiSfiZaSt^M 
 
 THE UNITED STATES MINT, NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 XXXVII. 
 
 NEW ORLEANS, 
 
 The Metropolis of the South and the Largest Cotton Mart in America. 
 
 THE New Orleans of to-day is the result of 
 more complex mixture of influence due to race, re- 
 ligion, and climate than can be found anywhere 
 else in America. The old French and Spanish 
 adventurer, the English, the negro, the modern 
 American have all representatives in her people 
 of to-day. The atmosphere, the tone of its so- 
 ciety, the point of view from which everything is 
 regarded is French rather than American at this 
 time, while the older and most picturesque parts of the city are decidedly 
 foreign, both in its inhabitants and its language. New Orleans was 
 founded in 1718 with sixty-eight inhabitants, but the arrival of sev- 
 eral fleets of French emigrants soon followed, so that in six years there 
 were about 5000 white people and 600 negro slaves in Louisiana. The 
 
 24 (371) 
 
372 NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 next twenty years were taken up in wars with the Indians. It was the 
 French settlers who joined the Choctaw Indians and annihilated the 
 Natchez tribe. 
 
 In 1764 the Louisianians received notice that their territory had been 
 ceded to Spain. Spanish emigrants came and a Spanish Governor took 
 possession. But the natives rebelled, and, surprising the guards, took the 
 Governor forcibly aboard an outgoing vessel and sent him back to Spain ; 
 but in the course of a year another Governor came with about 3000 sol- 
 diers and fifty cannon. The rebellion was suppressed, and the leaders 
 were shot in the Place d' Amies at New Orleans, which city was the 
 capital of the province from 1721 throughout the French and Spanish 
 rule. At this time the Province of Louisiana w r as considerably larger 
 than the United States, for it claimed dominion from the source to the 
 mouth of the Mississippi River and westward to the Pacific Ocean. The 
 Spanish again ceded the country to the French in 1800, and it w T as from 
 them, under Napoleon the First, that the United States purchased it in 
 1803 for $15,000,000, and on the eighteenth day of December of that year 
 the American Army took possession of the city and the stars and stripes 
 for the first time fluttered above the Place d'Armes. Twice has New Or- 
 leans figured prominently in modern warfare. In 1815 Andrew Jackson 
 defeated the British Army sent to effect its capture under General Pack- 
 ingham. 3000 of the English soldiers were killed and wounded while only 
 seven of the Americans fell ; and, early in 1862, its capture by Admiral 
 Farragut constituted one of the first great successes on the part of the 
 North in the Civil War. 
 
 With the single exception of Liverpool, New Orleans is the largest 
 cotton mart in the world. Nearly one-third of the whole cotton crop of 
 the United States finds its way to this market, whence it is forwarded to 
 all parts of the globe. She also does an extensive export business in 
 sugar, Texas and Mexican wool and hides as well as southern lumber 
 and iron. The Mississippi River is nearly a mile wide opposite the city, 
 though one hundred and seven miles from the sea, and furnishes a noble 
 avenue for a great number of ships and river steamers which constantly 
 line her levees, thickly huddled together for miles in length, and bearing 
 the ensigns of all the nations of the earth. 
 
 The appearance of New Orleans differs widely from any other city. 
 
NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 373 
 
 In its old precincts everything is curious, quaint, antiquated, and foreign 
 looking. The curious Spanish houses, with wide balconies, grated window 
 blinds, great tiled-roofs with overhanging eaves, form a curious picture 
 to the eye of the northern visitors, while the vaulted archways give a 
 tint of luxury and ease with the inner courts where splashing fountains 
 and blooming flowers may be seen. In the French quarter, equally as 
 distinctly characteristic structures of that architecture are to be seen. 
 Many of the old French and Spanish buildings look as if they had 
 
 COTTON-FIELD IN LOUISIANA. 
 
 msst 
 
 been transplanted bodily from the ancient cities of those countries, and 
 indeed for very many of them the tiles and bricks were brought here 
 in vessels in the old colonial days. This old-time style of archi- 
 tecture is matched in the same quarter by old-style furniture and cos- 
 tumes, which, taken in connection with the old-time verdure of the old 
 gardens, the magnolias, orange trees, jasmine, and the moss-hanging 
 oaks, all tend to captivate the eye and delight the nostrils of the 
 stranger within the gates of New Orleans until he is loath to leave 
 
374 NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 so beautiful and noble a pla^e. Within are the grand old mansions of 
 early times, which remind one of the feudal days of slavery. The old 
 mansion-house, painted snow-white with green blinds, sitting in the 
 centre of a large yard surrounded by a high wall, over which the pedes- 
 trian may catch glimpses of the fig, pomegranate, magnolia, myrtle, and 
 other ornamental trees, lifting their heads high above the garden walls. 
 On the outskirts of the town are miles and miles of beautiful villas. 
 The shade trees, the great gardens, luxuriant with most of the subtropical 
 trees and flowers — in short, the whole city— give one the impression of 
 being the land of perpetual summer. 
 
 New Orleans is, in fact, practically two cities. One, as we have already 
 said, is French in manners, customs, sentiment, and language, with, of 
 course, some modification due to environment. This section is known 
 as " Downtown " or " Creole " New Orleans, and lies south of Canal 
 Street. The other, the uptown district, is where the Americanized popula- 
 tion of the community lives. Canal Street is the " Broadway" of New 
 Orleans. It is a beautiful thoroughfare extending diagonally across the 
 citv from the river to the lake. It is 170 feet wide, with a shaded " neu- 
 tral " ground running through the centre. It is on this street that the 
 big retail stores are located, and here mingle the manhood and woman- 
 hood of "Creole" New Orleans. In Louisiana, the word Creole means 
 white and was originally applied as distinguishing the white Frenchman 
 from the black African, who w^as his slave. The term now applied in 
 that section means the descendants of the earlv French settlers. 
 
 The climate of New Orleans is peculiar in that it has but two seasons, 
 summer and winter. The summers are long-drawn out, and, contrary to 
 the opinion of many people in other parts of the country, are much milder 
 than in higher latitudes. The city lies between the Mississippi Kiver 
 on one side and Lake Ponchartrain, the great arm of the Gulf of Mexico, 
 on the other. The river breezes blow at evening, no matter how warm 
 the midsummer day, and make the temperature always comparatively 
 cool at night. The winters here are only such in name, as the weather 
 seldom gets colder than later September in the Northern States. 
 Frost is seldom seen, and it is only once in many years that New 
 Orleans has witnessed the spectacle of a snowstorm, and when it 
 comes the snow melts as fast as it falls. The climate of this section 
 
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 WASHINGTON MONUMENT, WASHINGTON, D. C. 
 (Height 555 feet.) 
 
NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 375 
 
 makes outdoor life exceedingly pleasant, It is only natural that in 
 such a city and such a climate parks should be numerous and attrac- 
 tive, and New Orleans is especially fortunate in this respect, There 
 are, altogether, about twenty public squares and parks situated in dif- 
 ferent portions of the business and residential quarters. Most of them 
 are beautifully laid out and ornamented with large shade trees, shrubs, 
 and flowers. In fact, they may be described as being perfectly covered 
 
 FRANKLIN SQUARE, NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 with luxuriant subtropical vegetation. Within there are statues of 
 eminent men executed by the best sculptors of the world. The most at- 
 tractive of these gardens are Jackson, Lafayette, and Franklin Squares. 
 The former occupies the site already referred to as the Place d' Armes — the 
 old parade grounds during the French regime — and contains the bronze 
 statue oi General Jackson, the hero of New Orleans and the seventh 
 President of the United States. There are also two large public parks 
 of exceptional natural beauty within the city limits. One, Audubon 
 
376 NEW ORLEANS. 
 
 Park, named in honor of the great naturalist, occupies 250 acres, and, 
 fronting the river for a half-mile, extends all the way back to St. Charles 
 Avenue, one of the most fashionable thoroughfares. It was on this 
 ground that the World's Cotton Exhibition of 1884-85 was held. 
 
 Lack of space forbids description of Dther attractive parks, within 
 which and about the city will be found many statues of interest. 
 Prominent among them are the Battle Monument, a square stone struc- 
 ture on the field of Chalmette ; the statue of Eobert E. Lee, a tall marble 
 shaft surmounted by the heroic figure of the great Confederate General ; 
 and the Confederate Monument, erected as a memorial of the Army of 
 Virginia, with a soldier clad in Confederate uniform standing upon the 
 
 summit. 
 
 But the two sights most full of interest are the French Market, which 
 
 is unexcelled for its quality of fish, game, and fruit, and the great levee, 
 
 already referred to, which protects the inhabitants during the high-water 
 
 season, and but for which the Mississippi Biver would overflow and sweep 
 
 away the whole of the city. No description could do justice to either of 
 
 these interesting features of New Orleans. There is nothing else in this 
 
 country similar to them. The chief among the public buildings are the 
 
 Custom House, the United States Mint, the City Hall, and the noble old 
 
 Cathedral of St. Louis. 
 
 New Orleans has always been a gay city, and the moderation of her 
 winter climate, coupled with the particular gayeties of that season, draw 
 many people here from all over the country. Mardi Gras in New Orleans 
 is the most peculiar of American festivals, abounding in masks and 
 revelry, with magnificent and grotesque city parades, the like of which is 
 nowhere else witnessed. 
 
 We have already referred to New Orleans as the " Crescent City." It 
 is also known among its admirers as the " Queen City of the South." 
 Others, in deference to its early settlers, call it the " Creole City," while 
 others, remembering it principally for the great Mardi Gras, call it the 
 " Carnival City," and yet others, regarding it from the point of latitude, 
 designate it as their great "Subtropical Capital " These are the most 
 prominent among the many names by which New Orleans has been 
 known. 
 
XXXVIII. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO, 
 
 The City of the Golden Gate and the Metropolis of the Pacific Coast. 
 
 IT was in 1769 that the 
 Spanish monks visited the 
 peninsula washed by the Pa- 
 cific Ocean on the west and 
 by the waters of the San 
 Francisco Bay on the east, 
 the latter being the only real- 
 ly good harbor on the Pacific 
 coast for hundreds of miles. 
 On the northern end of this 
 peninsula the city of San 
 Francisco is situated, and its 
 location is, no doubt, due to 
 the magnificent harbor, for 
 the original site, occupied by 
 a cluster of low barren hills separated by valleys filled with rocks and 
 sand, presented a most unpromising appearance. In 1776, the first 
 permanent habitation, consisting of a fortified settlement and a mis- 
 sion, was made and called in the Spanish San Francisco de los Dolores. 
 
 One hundred and fifty-four years later, in 1830, it had a population 
 of only about 200, composed entirely of a few Spanish soldiers and adhe- 
 rents of the mission. In 1846 California was annexed to the United 
 States, and in less than two years the population of the little hamlet 
 had increased to over 1000. When the gold discovery was made in 
 1849, prodigious excitement, greater than that recently manifested in 
 
 (377) 
 
 THE GREAT DOME AID TELESCOPE OF LICK 
 OBSERVATORY, CALIFORNIA. 
 
378 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 the famous Klondike gold-fields, prevailed. Departing ships and over- 
 land parties brought the news to all parts ; and, although the gold-fields 
 were from one hundred to two hundred miles from San Francisco, the 
 population of 1000, in 1848, had increased to 25,000 in 1850. 
 
 San Francisco instantly became a city, and since that time its growth 
 has been steady, the census of 1890 giving it a population of 306,000. 
 The original buildings were almost entirely of wood, the material, in 
 many cases, being brought from the Atlantic 'States in ships which 
 traveled half the circuit of the globe in rounding Cape Horn to land it 
 there. This inflammable material and lack of protection by well-organ- 
 ized fire companies left the city such an easy victim to the ravages of 
 fire that in the year 1850 not less than three conflagrations took place, 
 destroying over $7,000,000 worth of property. The influx of capital and 
 the enterprise of the people were so great that it was quickly rebuilt in a 
 more substantial manner. The chief business part of the city is in the 
 northeastern portion of the peninsula and is well and regularly laid out. 
 The great business thoroughfare is Market Street, while the chief resi- 
 dential portion is along California Street, farther west among the hills. 
 
 San Francisco was one of the first cities in the country to adopt and 
 successfully use the cable-cars. The city was so hilly that horse-cars were 
 impracticable, and these cable-cars climb hills so steep as to make a 
 stranger nervous. Among the principal fine buildings of San Francisco 
 may be mentioned the United States Mint, the Merchants' Exchange, 
 and the Bank of California. This city claims to have the largest hotel 
 in the United States, and, as far as appearances go, this claim seems to 
 be well founded. This distinction belongs to the Palace Hotel on Market 
 Street, a gigantic pile which cost $3,500,000 to build. 
 
 The City Hall of San Francisco is a magnificent structure, having cost 
 about $5,000,000, and, notwithstanding the slight earthquake shocks, 
 considered a menace to tall buildings, there have arisen many grand and 
 lofty iron and frame structures, among which may be mentioned the 
 Mark Hopkins, the Chronicle Building, and the D. 0. Mills Building. 
 The latter was erected at the cost of $1,500,000, and is one of the 
 most noble architectural attractions on the Pacific coast. 
 
 The features of San Francisco most likely to arrest the attention of 
 the visitor are the harbor, Chinatown, and the Golden Gate. The harbor, 
 
SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 379 
 
 as already stated, is the finest on the Pacific coast, and consists of a 
 large bay extending from north to south entering from the Pacific Ocean 
 by a strait five miles long by about one mile in width. This strait, or 
 passage, is the famous " Golden Gate." The bay is forty miles long, and 
 just opposite the city seven miles wide, and is crossed in many direc- 
 tions by large and well-equipped steam ferry-boats. 
 
 The city of Oakland, directly across the bay from San Francisco, is a 
 beautiful residential city, where many of the San Francisco merchants and 
 
 SCENE IN CHINATOWN, SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 professional men have their homes. It has a separate government of its 
 own and contains about 60,000 inhabitants, with a climate as different 
 from that of San Francisco as if it were hundreds of miles away, the 
 temperature varying only fourteen degrees in a year. The city is entirely 
 free from the coast fogs which amount to an afternoon rain almost every 
 day in San Francisco. It is embowered in flowers and semi-tropical 
 fruit trees, and is one of the most delightful residential spots on the con- 
 tinent. On an elevated hill in Oakland is the residence of Joaquin 
 Miller, the poet, overlooking the bay and the " Golden Gate." 
 
380 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 Chinatown is an extraordinary phenomenon. It is a separate portion 
 of the city given up entirely to the emigrants from the Celestial King- 
 dom, where, within comparatively small limits, about 40,000 Chinamen 
 have transformed the district into a Chinese city. The buildings, it is 
 true, present a western aspect, but the vast majority oi the faces of men, 
 women, and children belong to the Mongol type. The signs above the 
 shops are all in Chinese, and the buildings have been adapted, so far as 
 possible, to Chinese use. It is the fashion for strangers to be taken 
 through this district by men who profess to be duly qualified guides ; 
 but, unless time presses very severely, much the best way is to stroll 
 quietly through the quarter. Of course, if such places as the numerous 
 gambling-houses and opium dens are visited, it will be wiser to go ac- 
 companied by a policeman. The opium dens are generally dark and 
 dismal places, lit only by the lamps used to light the opium pipes, and 
 around the walls are rough wooden pallets upon which the victims of 
 this fatal habit lie in the various stages of opium influence. There are 
 several Joss-houses or temples, and many Chinese restaurants. 
 
 One of the most popular sights presented by this novel heathen settle- 
 ment is the Chinese theatre. Chinamen are passionately fond of gam- 
 bling and of dramatic representations. One of the two theatres in this 
 quarter is capable of containing about one thousand spectators, and is 
 packed from floor to ceiling. The drama is continued from night to 
 night, and often takes a fortnight for its complete presentation. 
 
 The Golden Gate is the narrow entrance which admits the incoming 
 vessels from the Pacific into the harbor. It is formed by two bold head- 
 lands jutting out into the ocean, and upon the southernmost, known as 
 Port Lobos, are two very popular places of resort — the Cliff House, a 
 kind of hotel; and the Sutro Heights, a fine private residence with 
 splendid gardens, through which the public are allowed to pass. The 
 Golden Gate is reached by a drive of six miles ; but the more popular 
 route is the cable-cars. The name " Golden Gate " was given to this 
 inlet from the fact that the morning and evening sun shining through it 
 gives the water the appearance of molten gold when observed from the 
 eastern shore of San Francisco Bay or from Telegraph Hill. 
 
 From the Cliff House the eye ranges out over the vast Pacific Ocean, 
 the low sandy beach of which spreads far away to the south. Close by 
 
SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 381 
 
 the hotel is the noted Seal Rock, and from the piazza a large number of 
 sea-lions may be seen wriggling over the rocks, while the peculiar bark- 
 ing noise which they make can be heard above the thunderous roar of 
 the ocean. 
 
 At San Raphael, about sixty miles from San Francisco, is located the 
 famous Lick Observatory, remarkable because it possessed the largest 
 telescope in the world, until the Yerkes Observatory of Chicago was 
 opened in November, 1897, with 
 a lens claiming to be more pow- 
 erful ; the lens at Chicago is forty 
 inches in diameter — that of Lick 
 Observatory thirty-six. This 
 splendid observatory was the gift 
 of a Mr. Lick, who died in San 
 Francisco in 1876. The site 
 chosen for the observatory is the 
 summit of Mount Hamilton, 4000 
 feet above the level of the sea. 
 It is the property of the Univer- 
 sity of California. 
 
 A splendid bird's-eye view of 
 the city, bay, Golden Gate, and 
 surrounding country may be en- 
 joyed from the summit of Mis- 
 sion Peaks, 925 feet high, and 
 Russian and Telegraph Hills, the 
 summits of which are accessible 
 by cable-cars. Golden Gate 
 Park, covering one thousand and thirteen acres, is also a very attrac- 
 tive spot, reaching out to the sea. 
 
 Commercially considered, San Francisco is the Metropolis of the Paci- 
 fic coast. She has fifty-odd steamships running to the Sandwich Islands 
 and the Pacific, Asiatic, and Australian ports. The chief imports are 
 sugar, tea, rice, and coffee. Her chief exports are grain, of which she 
 ships one million tons per year. The city has manufactories of iron, 
 glass, woolens, blankets, cable, and wire, flour, mining machinery, cord- 
 
 GOLD-WASHING IN 1849, IN CALIFORNIA. 
 
382 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 age, and sugar; besides, she has recently added many small manufactur- 
 ing plants fur notions and novelties hitherto brought almost entirely from 
 the east or imported from abroad. 
 
 To the visitor from the Eastern States, San Francisco is the most 
 interesting city in America. Its climate is a continual surprise. In 
 August, instead of a dry and dusty sultry heat, it rains in fine mist 
 almost every afternoon, and overcoats are worn with comfort every even- 
 ing. Moreover, the hills are brown and bare of grass as they are with 
 us in winter; but in December they are clothed with verdure, and this, 
 month is remarkably pleasant. Again, this is a wonderfully cosmopol- 
 itan city where almost every civilized language may be heard, and the 
 customs of other nations and peoples may be studied. Mexican infantry 
 marches down the streets to celebrate the anniversary of the independ- 
 ence of Mexico ; Italian societies commemorate the unity of Italy ; the 
 Chinese haul their divine dragon, 100 feet long, through the streets of 
 their quarter, amid amazing din of fire-crackers, drums, cymbals, and 
 flutes; Irishmen celebrate or contemn the battle of Boyne. The beauti- 
 ful bay itself, lined with white cities and reflecting great mountain 
 ranges, has its share of this cosmopolitan feature; for, amid the lively 
 scene of ocean steamships, ferry-boats, and sailing vessels, we see the 
 unwieldy junks of the Chinese shrimpers and the lateen-sailed feluccas 
 of the Maltese and Greek fishermen. 
 
 In the point of education (in the sense of higher culture), religion, and 
 morality, San Francisco does not rank with the old and settled east; 
 but in these respects she is making, we may say, remarkable progress — 
 when it is remembered that fifty years ago its settlement was practi- 
 cally begun by a rough class of miners and adventurers. 
 
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 L_ 
 
XXXIX. 
 
 NIAGARA, 
 
 The Greatest Waterfall of the World. 
 
 ,EW YOKE State has many beautiful waterfalls. 
 Each of them possesses in itself a peculiar 
 charm. But we must leave them all and come 
 at once to u grand and magnificent Niagara," 
 the most stupendous and magnificent spectacle 
 in the form of a waterfall on earth ; for, indeed, 
 nowhere else on this planet does a river, nearly 
 one mile wide, leap, in a volume almost twenty 
 feet thick, over a precipice 160 feet high, carrying 
 one hundred million tons of water, with thunderous 
 roar, every hour into the abyss below. Words fail to 
 describe the beauty of this spectacle and the sensations of grandeur, 
 sublimity, awe, and reverence which it produces upon the sensitive imag- 
 ination of one who first beholds it. Niagara is rightly catalogued among 
 the wonders of the world. 
 
 One hundred million tons of water every hour! The mind of man can 
 hardly conceive it — these figures are too large. Perhaps the best method 
 of comprehending the stupendous scale of this natural marvel is to 
 remember that it is the sole outlet for the water of four great inland seas 
 lying hundreds of feet above the level of the ocean : Lake Superior, 355 
 miles long and 160 miles wide ; Lake Michigan, 320 miles long and 70 
 miles wide ; Lake Huron, 260 miles long and 100 miles wide ; and Lake 
 Erie, 290 miles Ions; and 65 miles wide. It is from these inexhaustible 
 sources that the mighty stream has come age after age and will probably 
 
 (383) 
 
384 NIAGARA. 
 
 continue to come for thousands of years to leap over this precipice which 
 forms the cataract of Niagara. 
 
 Many visitors make the mistake of attempting to see Niagara in a 
 few minutes. Even a view from a railroad train as it crosses the bridge 
 over the river below the falls is richly worth a day's journey to the place, 
 Sut, as Hawthorne said, " days should be spent at Niagara Falls in deep 
 and happy seclusion. This is necessary to him who would come away 
 with a proper impression of Niagara, its wonders and attractions." The 
 hotel accommodations of the city at present are all that the most fas- 
 tidious traveler could desire, and many of the most celebrated people of 
 the world have spent days together at this greatest of American wonders, 
 and gone away feeling that they had not made themselves fully ac- 
 quainted with all of its attractions. But these attractions are so close 
 together that even the sojourner of a single day or a few hours may 
 become well acquainted with the most important. 
 
 Of course, the first thing to be done is to take a general view of the 
 falls, and the best place for this observation is from the new suspension 
 bridge swinging 200 feet above the rushing river a short distance below 
 the great cataract. From the American side, from the centre, and from 
 the Canadian side of this bridge each bird's-eye view presents new and 
 interesting features. Having taken these views, walk up on the Cana- 
 dian side and stand on the jutting rocks and view it again from this 
 point. If you have with you a loquacious guide — and there are many of 
 them — lie will tell you thrilling stories as you stand upon the edge of the 
 precipice of how at different times victims of business failure, disap- 
 pointed love and melancholia have taken the wild leap into eternity 
 from the very spot on which you stand. Crossing again to the American 
 side you may now stroll down through Niagara Park, where a superb 
 view of the American Fall is obtained, the parapet at Prospect Point 
 affording a front view from a position so close to the water you can almost 
 touch it with the hand as it rushes down. A short distance above this 
 fall the rapid leading to it is crossed by a bridge which rests first upon 
 Bath Island, and then extends over a narrow rapid to Goat Island. The 
 total length of the bridge is 360 feet, and it is not easy at first to shake 
 off the sense of painful insecurity as you lean over the slender railing 
 md watch the water gliding beneath your feet with awful velocity and 
 
NIAGARA. 
 
 385 
 
 resistless might. Standing in the centre of this bridge the guide will 
 point out to you a rock half-way down the stream towards the cataract, 
 on which unfortunates have caught and hung for hours, and sometimes 
 
 . _ up, and -finish $ Whale wither - 
 
 Jhe 3eavert have 1woJ>oor* to their l^adfe*. one to the Ti^ater and the other to thiJrand JJAe .According toy French Accounts. 
 
 NIAGARA AND THE BEAVER DAMS. 
 
 (From Moll's "New and Exact Map." 1715.) 
 
 more than a da}^ while excited friends on the bank in vain tried to 
 rescue them from the perilous position by floating rafts or boats or cast- 
 ing ropes. But we believe there is a record of no one lodging upon 
 that rock who was not at last overcome by exhaustion, forced to lose his 
 
386 NIAGARA. 
 
 hold and so carried down by the mad current over the awful cataract, to 
 be seen no more. The view up the rapids from this bridge is also one 
 of the first and most abiding impressions which the " Thunder of Waters " 
 makes upon the visitor. 
 
 Upon reaching Goat Island, which has an area of about sixty acres, 
 a path leads down to the inner edge of the American Fall, and thence a 
 bridge spans what is known as Centre Fall, and gives access to Luna 
 Island, a huge mass of rock placed on the very edge of the cataract, and 
 affording another superb point of vantage whence to study the American 
 Fall. 
 
 Upon Goat Island, Biddle's Stairs, as they are called, enable those 
 who are courageous enough to do so, and who care to go to the trouble 
 and expense of donning a special suit of waterproof clothing, to pass out 
 upon the rocks right across the face of Centre Fall, and then, coming in 
 to the rock between Centre Fall and the American Fall, to pass under 
 the Centre Fall, and so regain the starting-point. It is a perfectly safe 
 journey, and the writer had no difficulty in making it in the company 
 of a lady, and a gentleman, and a guide. Certainly the impressions 
 made are unusual and full of abiding interest. To stand, as you do, well 
 out in front of the mighty cataract, which seems to pour down from the 
 skies, with the awful thunder of the whole of the falls in your ears, 
 rendering any communication with your companions almost impossible, 
 the spray driving so swiftly and strongly towards you that it is difficult 
 to face it, and the vast column of water apparently bent upon sweeping 
 you away before it, is both novel and exhilarating. 
 
 Then as you turn in towards the rock troubles increase. Sight is 
 nearly useless by reason of the driving spray, the rocks appear to present 
 only a precarious footing, you can hardly catch the reassuring words of 
 the guide that it is "perfectly safe," and when you finally get under the 
 very Centre Fall itself, with the grim rock within and the awful mass of 
 falling water without, and with the violent currents of wind created by 
 the torrent seemingly intent upon driving you out into the raging whirl- 
 pool beyond, your sensations are apt to be more lively than pleasurable. 
 Nevertheless there is something very stimulating in thus standing, if it 
 be only for a moment, in the very centre and vortex of this the world's 
 greatest water-wonders. 
 
NIAGARA. 
 
 387 
 
 For those who have the nerve to see them, and who are favored by 
 suitable atmospheric conditions, this trip often affords wonderful rain- 
 bow effects. But there are always rainbows at Niagara when the sun 
 shines, and they are even visible by moonlight. 
 
 At the opposite end of Goat Island, and stretching light out into the 
 midst of the rapids leading to the Canadian Fall, are three tiny rocky 
 islets known as the Three Sisters. These are connected by bridges, and 
 from the outermost a magnificent view of the great rapids is obtained. 
 It is difficult to convey any adequate conception of the grandeur of the 
 
 SUSPENSION BRIDGE, NIAGARA FALLS. 
 
 scene at this point. Here also the enormous breadth of the river and 
 the rapid slope towards the gigantic Horseshoe Fall heighten the interest 
 of the scene. As you sit upon the verge of the outermost of the Three 
 Sisters and look up the stream, the waters appear to be rolling down 
 upon you with a might that nothing can restrain, to sweep both you and 
 the islet away to the dreadful fall just below. But at the very instant 
 when destruction seems inevitable, the waters part and rush by on either 
 side, too intent upon reaching the fall to stay and sweep away so slight 
 an obstacle as the rock on which you sit. After repeated study of the 
 25 
 
388 NIAGARA. 
 
 falls and rapids, the writer's conviction is that the experience which 
 combines best the impressions of awe, of force, of destiny, and of a 
 curious peace produced by the ever-changing and yet ever-present forms 
 of rushing water are nowhere quite so vivid and quite so memorable as 
 upon that last and outermost rocky point in the midst of the Canadian 
 rapid. 
 
 In winter the falls present a very novel appearance. The spray grad- 
 ually freezes, and in front of the American Fall forms ice bridges, which 
 enable the adventurous to obtain a nearer view than is possible any- 
 where except by the path in front of the centre. 
 
 A little steamer, the Maid of the Mist, moves about in perfect safety 
 in the broad expanse of river just below the falls, and from her deck 
 splendid views of the whole extent of Niagara are obtained. After the 
 great plunge the waters act as though they were weary, and the breadth 
 of the river is such that boating is comparatively safe. But about two 
 miles below the falls the walls of the river contract, forming the Whirl- 
 pool Kapids, through which only one boat is known ever to have ridden 
 in safety; and in trying to swim through this foolhardy persons have 
 lost their lives. At the Whirlpool proper, an equally dangerous place, 
 still lower down, the river makes an abrupt turn, and then the waters, 
 after their ten miles of conflict and struggle, flow peacefully on into Lake 
 Ontario. 
 
XL. 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, 
 
 The Wonderland of America. 
 
 " To him who in the love of nature holds 
 Communion with her visible forms, she speaks 
 A various language" * * * From Thanatopsis. 
 
 IjjjliJI HIGH up on the top of the 1 
 BKBEESiliiSiiBi Eocky Mountains in northwestern 
 wtlSSSSPIflMSif Wyoming lies the most picturesque 
 IliSSS^PiltSB an( ^ ^ ne mos ^ wonderful spot in all 
 s^^^^^^^^^J the world, a land rich in landscapes 
 !HH|^BiiSlIH of great beauty, made up of streams, 
 nMjj|||§Jfl||j§§ and waterfalls, and lakes, and vales, 
 |||§|!(|lj§jl|jl and mountains ; a land of snow and 
 Bjjppll|llij ice, of flowers and rich foliage and . 
 BBB§Ep8B gigantic trees ; a land of hot springs ; 
 IHR -;U and running brooks of steaming ; 
 (llllflplllljB water ; a land of lava beds, extinct ; 
 ^ K ^^ :: ,^ s ^ craters of volcanoes, and great gey- 
 sers spouting boiling water high 
 into the frozen atmosphere, while 
 muttering earthquakes rumble be- 
 neath one's feet; a land rich in 
 colored springs and colored stones 
 and geological formations in profu- 
 sion and variety nowhere else so 
 abundantly found ; a land where the 
 buffalo, the bear, and other big 
 game of America roam unmolested 
 
 GEYSER, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 and protected by the government 
 over 3575 square miles, while small game and wild birds are saucily 
 
 (389) 
 
390 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 familiar in their protected freedom within this great national reservation. 
 In short, it is a land to instruct, to delight, to astonish — nay, to bewilder 
 — the beholder at the prodigality of nature's lavish hand in collecting so 
 much that is picturesque, beautiful, strange, startling, grand, and awe- 
 inspiring in this her greatest museum of wonders. 
 
 It is a surprising fact that until the year 1870 the marvels of this 
 district were unknown to all but a few stray trappers and Indians, who 
 began to bring the strange news to the outside world as early as 1860. 
 Their stories, however, were received with positive discredit until in 
 1863 when Captain DeLacey explored the lower geyser basin ; and even 
 these reports were discredited. In August, 1870, General Washburn and 
 Lieutenant Doane, with a party of leading citizens of Montana, traversed 
 the valley of the Yellowstone River, explored the Great Canon, stood on 
 the shores of the Yellowstone Lake, and visited the gevsers of the Fire- 
 hole River. Their discovery led to the organization, in 1871, of a large 
 scientific expedition by officers in the 'United States Army. Their ex- 
 ploration not only confirmed but emphasized and added to the marvels 
 of the previous reports, and as a result the United States Congress, in 
 1872, by a special act reserved the whole district to be preserved forever 
 as a "National Park containing man and beast in all the wildness and 
 freshness of nature's beauty." 
 
 The park is too high and too cold for successful farming, and its vol- 
 canic character forbids mining. It is therefore eminently proper that 
 this great domain should be preserved in its natural wildness as a 
 museum of animal, vegetable, and mineralogical curiosities and as a 
 national pleasure resort. 
 
 The park must be approached from the Montana and Idaho sides, 
 since the intricate and almost impassable ranges of mountains make its 
 entrance very difficult from the Wyoming settlements. On the north- 
 west side the Gallatin range of mountains, 11,100 feet high, enwalls the 
 park. On the eastern wall is the magnificent Absaroka ridge, reaching 
 the height of 11,000 feet, which is practically impassable. On the north 
 Mount Washburn, 10,346 feet, is ascended by a bridle-path. This moun- 
 tain is the fragment of an extinct volcano, and from its top a good view 
 over the long ranges of peaks in every direction, and across the shining 
 Yellowstone Lake, may be had. The Red Mountains, culminating in 
 
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 
 
 391 
 
 Mount Sheridan, 10,400 feet high, form the southern wall. From this 
 point, on account of the purity and the clearness of the mountain air, 
 the eye surveys an area of 70,000 square miles in Montana, Idaho, and 
 Utah. 
 
 The great natural features of the Yellowstone Park are the Mammoth 
 Hot Springs, 
 the various 
 Geyser Ba- 
 sins, the Yel- 
 low stone 
 Lake, and the 
 Falls and the 
 Grand Canon 
 of the Yellow-! 
 stone River. 
 Upon enter- 
 ing the park 
 the first in- 
 dication the 
 tourist sees 
 of subterra- 
 nean heat is 
 the Boiling 
 River, which 
 issues from 
 an opening 
 in the rocks 
 and empties 
 directly into 
 the Gardiner. 
 
 This river is the outlet for the waters of the Mammoth Hot Springs, 
 which find their way to this point through underground passages. A few 
 miles beyond, the Mammoth Hot Springs themselves are reached. 
 
 Here birth, life, and death are strikingly illustrated in the newly 
 formed, the living, and the dead springs seen on every hand. The living 
 springs are marvels of beauty. Their overhanging bowls, adorned with 
 
 MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS HOTEL, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
392 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 delicate fret-work, are among the finest specimens of nature's handiwork 
 in the world, and the colored waters themselves are startling in their 
 brilliancy. Red, pink, black, canary, green, saffron, blue, chocolate, and 
 all their intermediate gradations are found here in exquisite harmony. 
 
 The springs rise in terraces of various heights and widths, having 
 iintermingled with their delicate shades chalk-like cliffs, soft and crumbly. 
 'These are the remains of springs from which the life and beauty have 
 departed. 
 
 As the tourist proceeds through the Golden Gate and along Kingman 
 Pass tow T ard those objects in which his keenest interest centres — the 
 Geysers — he may see to the northward, casting the shadow of its mighty 
 presence over all the valley, that old sentinel of the park, Electric Peak, 
 whose snow-capped head rises 11,150 feet above sea-level. 
 
 Twelve miles from the springs is found a most curious volcanic forma- 
 tion. Obsidian Cliff, as its name indicates, is a cliff of natural glass at 
 the head of Beaver Lake. Here is located the only road of native glass 
 upon the continent. 
 
 After passing Obsidian Cliff evidences of hot-spring action constantly 
 increase, until they reach their climax in the Norris Geyser Basin. This 
 basin is supposed to be among the most recent volcanic developments 
 of the region. 
 
 In the Firehole Geyser region, which includes the Lower, Middle, and 
 Upper Basins, the most peculiar phenomena of the park are seen at 
 their best. 
 
 In the Lower Basin are located the Fountain Geyser, the first one of 
 magnitude the tourist meets and one of the best in the region ; the Great 
 Fountain, in some respects the most remarkable geyser in the park, as 
 its formation is quite unlike that of any other; the Mammoth Paint-pots, 
 the most prominent example of this class of phenomena, and nearly 
 seven hundred hot springs. Here also is located the Firehole, a large 
 hot spring, from the bottom of which, to all appearances, a light-colored 
 flame is constantly issuing, at times assuming a ruddy tinge, and always 
 flickering like the lambent flame of a torch. It is only an illusion, how- 
 ever, and is probably caused by escaping gas. 
 
 In the Middle Basin is located the greatest geyser in the world. Long 
 regarded as a mammoth hot spring, it was not until 1881 that the 
 
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 
 
 393 
 
 Excelsior disclosed its true character and developed into a veritable water 
 volcano. It has an irregular crater three hundred and thirty by two 
 hundred feet and twenty feet deep. During its eruptions it exhibits 
 tremendous power, throwing a column of water fifty feet in diameter to 
 a height of two hundred and fifty feet, and frequently ejecting huge 
 rocks. It has remained inactive, however, since 1888. 
 
 In this basin is also located the wonderful Prismatic Lake, upon whose 
 mist-covered surface is displayed every color of the rainbow. 
 
 GARDINER'S RIVER, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, WITH TERRACES OF 
 
 TRAVERTINE OR CALCAREOUS TUFA. 
 
 But it is not until the tourist arrives at the Upper Basin, however, 
 that he reaches the real home of the genus geyser. Here are fifteen 
 examples of the first magnitude, besides scores of less important ones, 
 and here they hold high carnival. The Grotto, the Splendid, the Gaint, 
 the Castle, the Lion, the Giantess, and the Bee-hive are located here; 
 and here also stands Old Faithful, whose hourly eruption affords the 
 visitor, however transient, an opportunity of witnessing at least one 
 geyser in action. To it fell the honor of welcoming civilized man to this 
 
394 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 
 
 remarkable region, for when the Washburn party, from a dense forest 
 which concealed everything around them beyond a radius of a few hun- 
 dred feet, emerged suddenly into an open, treeless valley, there, directly 
 in front of them, scarcely two hundred yards away, stood the vertical 
 column of Old Faithful, shooting a hundred and fifty feet into the air ; 
 and then it was that the old geyser received its name. For thousands 
 of years it had been performing its hourly eruptions, but upon that day 
 it "bowed out the era of tradition and fable and ushered the civilized 
 world into the untrodden empire of the Fire King.' 7 It is estimated that 
 this geyser alone ejects over thirty- three million gallons of water daily. 
 
 The most beautiful geyser in the whole region, however, is the Bee- 
 hive. While not so grand and powerful as some of the others, from an 
 artistic point of view it is the most perfect geyser in the park. 
 
 About eight miles beyond the Upper Geyser Basin the road crosses the 
 Continental Divide, and from Shoshone Point a glimpse may be had of 
 Shoshone Lake, quietly nestled among the mountains. At Lake Yiew a 
 sharp turn in the forest road brings the tourist suddenly in full view of 
 one of the most striking panoramas in the world. Immediately before 
 him, three hundred feet below, lies the beautiful Yellowstone Lake. 
 Beyond, far away along the eastern horizon, rise the Absaroka Mountains, 
 while on every hand the dark pine forests shroud the slopes and are 
 mirrored in the tranquil waters below. 
 
 Yellowstone Lake is nearly a mile and a half above the level of the 
 sea, or a quarter of a mile higher than Mt. Washington. It has an area 
 of one hundred and thirty-nine square miles and a maximum depth of 
 three hundred feet. At one point upon its shore fish may be caught and 
 cooked in the boiling spring without taking them from the line. 
 
 Another strange phenomenon of this immediate region is the occur- 
 rence of indefinable overhead sounds, w T hich have thus been described by 
 Professor Forbes : "It put me in mind of the vibrating clang of a harp, 
 lightly and rapidly touched high up above the tree-tops, or the sound of 
 many telegraph wires swinging regularly and rapidly in the w T ind. It 
 begins softly in the remote distance, draws rapidly near, with louder and 
 louder throbs of sound, and dies away in the opposite direction." No 
 rational explanation has ever been advanced for this remarkable phe- 
 nomenon. 
 
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 395 
 
 To the visitor who has never stood upon the brink of one of our great 
 Western canons and looked down into its dizzy depths, the canon of the 
 Yellowstone will be a marvelous revelation. For twelve miles it stretches 
 out below the Falls, dropping sheer from a thousand to fifteen hundred 
 feet, and bearing upon the face of its walls the most glorious color work 
 in the world. At the head of the canon, enveloped now in part, now in 
 total, by a floating robe of mist, are the Lower Falls, where the river 
 plunges headlong over a precipice three hundred and ten feet high, and 
 then silently and beautifully winds its way along the bottom of the 
 mighty gorge, a sinuous line of living green. 
 
 Here, indeed, is the climax to all the wonders of this wonderful region. 
 Before its overpowering grandeur geysers, paint-pots, lakes, and rivers 
 sink into insignificance ; and while the tourist may perhaps have come 
 thousands of miles to view more particularly one of the eruptive hot 
 springs, it is here that he stands transfixed with wonder, mute with 
 admiration and amazement. 
 
 Standing on Lookout Point the whole scene lies like a panorama at 
 your feet. Beneath you drops the terrible precipice to such a tremen- 
 dous depth that you shrink back instinctively ; to the right descends the 
 splendid cataract, leaping and dashing and gushing and roaring, to the 
 dark and hollow abyss below; to the left extends a long line of jagged 
 walls with their turrets and towers, their overhanging crags, and their 
 fallen boulders, while immediately in front, in all its grandeur, in all its 
 sublimity, in all its subtle beauty, stands the gorgeously painted rock, 
 decorated by the hand of the Almighty in undying colors. 
 
 For countless ages has this grand and glorious rock been working out 
 its own gaudy ornamentation, impressing into its service frost and snow, 
 heat and vapor, geyser and glacier, volcano and earthquake, until it has 
 evolved from its iron, its sulphur, its lava, and its lime the transcendent 
 beauties with which it stands adorned. 
 
XLI. 
 
 ALASKA AND THE KLONDIKE, 
 
 America's Arctic Land of Wonders and of Gold. 
 
 HALF a century ago 
 half of this great coun- 
 try of ours was wild. 
 West of the Mississippi 
 Eiver there was little 
 civilization. Boundless 
 prairies, unbroken for- 
 ests, wild beasts and 
 wilder men — untutored 
 savages — imperiled the 
 path of the adventurous 
 pioneer and made the 
 "Forty-niners' " journey 
 to California's gold-fields 
 more dangerous by far 
 than that of the " Nine- 
 ty-niner" into the 
 frozen depths and un- 
 broken solitudes of 
 Alaska, the arctic wil- 
 derness of wonders and 
 of gold. 
 
 When Alaska was 
 purchased by the United States in 1867 for the sum of $7,200,000 it was 
 thought by the majority of our countrymen to be a very unwise invest- 
 
 (396) 
 
 BEADY TO START OVER THE CHILKOOT PASS. 
 
ALASKA AND THE KLONDIKE. 
 
 397 
 
 merit ; but Secretary Seward's wisdom in urging its purchase has been 
 proven, for it has turned into the United States Treasury in less than 
 twenty years gold 
 &nd furs alone suf- 
 ficient to cover more 
 than ten times its 
 cost, and we have 
 scarcely begun to 
 draw upon its 
 wealth. 
 
 Alaska is a vast 
 land. North and 
 south it extends 
 1200 miles, equal 
 to the distance 
 from Maine to 
 Florida. Its ex- 
 tension westward 
 from Portland Canal 
 to Attu, the last of 
 the Aleutian Is- 
 lands, is 2100 miles 
 — as far as from 
 Virginia to Califor- 
 nia. Its area is 
 one -seventh as 
 large as all Europe, 
 and it covers a 
 greater number of 
 square miles than 
 all the United 
 States east of the 
 Mississippi River, 
 while its coast-line 
 of over 8000 miles is larger than all the balance of our water-front on both 
 the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. It is a land of towering mountains 
 
 TOTEM POLES OF ALASKA. 
 
398 ALASKA AND THE KLONDIKE. 
 
 and mighty rivers. Mount St. Elias, and its twin, Mount Logan, just 
 over the British line, and Mount Wrangle in Alaska, lift their bald and 
 glistening summits of eternal snow and ice 19,000 feet into the fleecy 
 clouds of this northern sky. These are the tallest mountains in North 
 America. The great Yukon is also the largest river in North America. 
 It brings down the snow and ice from 3000 miles of wild interior and 
 discharges into Behring Sea from its delta mouths, seventy miles wide, 
 one-third more water than is carried by the " Father of Waters " into the 
 Gulf of Mexico. Six hundred miles above its mouth the Yukon is from 
 six to eight miles wide, and a journey by steamer from St. Michael's to 
 Dawson City, a distance of about 1700 miles, on its mighty bosom, will 
 give the traveler who thus crosses the territory of Alaska an impression 
 of its vastness and wildness that no w T ritten description could convey. 
 It would also show him all the civilization to be found in the interior of 
 this unexplored ice-locked wilderness. The Yukon, like the Mississippi, 
 has many tributaries, and there are other noble rivers of Alaska flowing 
 into the sea that we cannot pause to describe, 
 
 Alaska is a land of many wonders. Muir Glacier at the head of 
 Alexandrian Bay is the largest accessible glacier in the world. The 
 tourist ships sail right through its floating icebergs, which, leaping from 
 the glacier's summit, tumble with deafening sound and surpassing 
 grandeur every few minutes into the sea below. The front of this glacier 
 is about three miles wide, and the height of the pure ice- wall, from the 
 top of the glacier to the bottom of the sea on which it rests, is about 
 1300 feet, 200 feet of this being buried in the bottom of the bay. The 
 bergs in summer fall every five or ten minutes, and the thundering noise 
 of their plunge may be heard above the roar of the ocean for a mile or 
 more. It is estimated that there are 5000 glaciers in Alaska, some of 
 them covering more than 1000 square miles. Women and children even 
 climb the sides and walk safely over the icy surface of Muir Glacier. 
 
 Other surprises are found in the climate — the almost tropical vegeta- 
 tion of the islands, the strange inhabitants, the nightless weeks in sum- 
 mer, and the dayless weeks in winter. The Alexandrian Archipelago, 
 in the southwestern part of Alaska, is composed of over one thousand 
 islands, and a sail through them is enchanting. The water is calm and 
 blue, the sunshine bright and clear; the climate is bland and temperate 
 
ALASKA AND THE KLONDIKE. 
 
 399 
 
 as that of Washington City; the islands are clothed- with evergreen, 
 beautiful beyond description ; and the midsummer days when tourists 
 go there are without the darkness of night, for the rosy colors of evening 
 blend with those of the morning, leaving no darkness between. Strange 
 to say also that as these islands do not get as hot as Washington in sum- 
 mer, neither are they as cold as that city in winter. 
 
 To visit Fort Wrangle, with its strange Indian village and curious 
 " totem poles " before every house ; or the Chilkat Indians, with their 
 wonderful 
 handiwork 
 i n carving 
 and weaving ; 
 or the Aleu- 
 tian Islands, 
 with their 
 peculiar peo- 
 ple, so like 
 the Japanese; 
 or the whale 
 fishers and 
 walrus hunt- 
 ers, and the 
 cliff dwellers 
 along the 
 shores, all is 
 most novel 
 
 and interesting in detail, and it is all within that warm belt, kissed and 
 tempered by the Japanese current, where neither summers severest heat 
 nor winter's rigors ever come. The Alexandrian Islands are also covered 
 by the finest forests on earth. The trees are of several varieties, but the 
 prevailing one is the Sitka spruce, which cling like giants 1000 feet up 
 on the sides of the steepest mountains and often grow to a height of 
 250 feet. There are also vast forests of redwood and hemlock awaiting 
 the lumberman. The hickory of that region is particularly tough and 
 serviceable, and the silver cedar, very hard and durable, receives a high 
 polish and is pleasantly perfumed. 
 
 LOG-CABIN CHURCH AT JUNEAU, ALASKA. 
 
400 ALASKA AND THE KLONDIKE. 
 
 Black, brown, and cinnamon bears, deer, lynxes, minks, martens, 
 white and silver-gray foxes inhabit these forests. It is to the animals 
 perhaps that we owe our possession of that land, for their valuable skins 
 lured John Jacob Astor to those wilds, and it was his account of the 
 country and its resources that caused Seward to desire the land for our 
 country. The shores of the islands and of the mainland also form the 
 homes of millions of large birds and water-fowls, which migrate thither 
 in summer from all southern climes of the continent to build their nests 
 and rear their young undisturbed. There are said to be more birds in 
 Alaska than all the rest of the United States combined. The waters are 
 also teeming with the greatest number and the greatest variety of the 
 most toothsome fish and a large number of fur-bearing water animals, of 
 which the sea-otter is the most valuable specimen. His skin is worth 
 from $100 to $250 in the market Alaska may be called the first fish 
 market of the world. The Yukon and all its tributaries abound in fish 
 of the finest quality,. The salmon is the largest anywhere found, weigh- 
 ing frequently from 80 to 100 pounds. There are now nearly fifty can- 
 ning establishments, started within the past few years, and employing 
 fifteen thousand men. 
 
 The Seal Islands have been the Government's greatest source of 
 revenue. These little spots of land, known as the Pribilof Islands, lie 
 north of the Aleutian Archipelago in Behring Sea, and they are the sum- 
 mer homes of millions of seals. Where these beautiful water animals 
 come from and where they go when they leave no one knows ; but here 
 they come in multitudes every summer to rear their } T oung ones, and 
 here the seal hunters, armed with clubs, knock in the head as many as 
 the law allows and skin them to make garments for wealth and fashion 
 to wear. The seals are easily killed, since they cannot move on land 
 except by short, jerky jumps of the whole body. 
 
 The Aleuts, who inhabit the islands, are generally employed to kill 
 the seals. They are very expert in wielding the clubs and taking off 
 the pelts. Besides, the Aleuts know how to select the seals for slaughter. 
 It is against the law to kill females or males which are the heads of fam- 
 ilies. The seal is a Mormon in his family affairs. That is, one male, or 
 bull seal as they are called, will have as many wives as he can win. 
 With these they live together in their rookeries and will fight to the death 
 
ALASKA AND THE KLONDIKE. 401 
 
 any intruder. This forces many bull seals to live as bachelors, and it is 
 these bachelors unaccompanied by females that are killed. Those from 
 three to four years of age have the finest pelts. The danger of extermi- 
 nating the seals does not come from the regular seal hunters on the 
 islands, but from pelagic sealers — those who catch the animals at sea 
 three miles from the coast — who catch the females while out hunting 
 food. Every time a female is killed it destroys two young ones, for the 
 mother seal is always nursing one baby, and it and the unborn seal are 
 both destroyed when the mother is killed, for no mother seal will nourish 
 any but her own young. 
 
 It was not until the year 1897 that the bleak interior of Alaska began 
 to attract universal attention. For ten vears it had been known that 
 there was much gold in the interior, but few had dared venture after it. 
 In the summer of that year the steamer Portland landed at Seattle, 
 Washington, bringing a number of miners who had gone up a year 
 before. The steamer was loaded with little sacks, like small sacks of table- 
 salt ; but they contained precious gold-dust — nearly one million dollars 
 of it. One man, Clarence Berry, for a single winter's work, had washed 
 out and brought home $135,000 worth. Another, W. M. Stanley, of 
 Seattle, had $112,000, which he had washed from the sand and picked 
 up in nuggets in a few months. It is estimated that during the fall of 
 1897 and the year 1898 not less than 100,000 men started for this 
 hitherto unknown wilderness of ice and snow and gold. The largest 
 quartz gold-mine and stamp-mill in the world is near Juneau, Alaska, 
 on one of the Alexandrian Islands, with rich ore enough already in sight 
 to keep its vast machinery turning out $700,000 a month for twenty years. 
 
 As to whether Alaska shall ever be generally populated or not is a 
 question for the future. In 1897 and 1898 little cities sprang up as by 
 magic, and the population of the territory doubled and trebled itself in 
 two years. The Alexandrian Archipelago and the Aleutian Islands might 
 well support a population of many millions, and they doubtless will do 
 so. The interior is too cold and dreary for any residence except that of 
 the hardy miner and explorer. 
 
THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 
 
 HE outside world is woefully ignorant of the greatness 
 of Canada. Indeed, few Canadians even realize 
 what a vast country they have. In area it covers 
 more than three and one-half millions of square 
 miles — very nearly equal to that of the United 
 States, including Alaska, and only about 200,000 
 square miles less than all Europe. One-sixteenth 
 of the entire land surface of the globe is within the 
 Dominion of Canada. England, Ireland, and Scotland 
 united are only one-twenty-ninth as large as this 
 great British possession in the New World. Canada is about one-half 
 larger than Australia, England's next greatest foreign territory. In 
 land area she constitutes forty per cent, of the entire British empire. 
 Her richness of soil and resources in forest and minerals are as vet 
 hardly touched ; and the greatness of her future is only limited by 
 the progress and enterprise of her people. 
 
 Canada is divided into sixteen provinces, the largest being British 
 Columbia, embracing 383,300 square miles. Next is Quebec with 347,- 
 350 square miles, and one and a half million people ; and the smallest 
 is Prince Edward's Island, containing only 2,000 square miles and 110,- 
 000 inhabitants. The whole population of the Dominion is estimated 
 in round numbers to be 5,000,000, nearly half of whom live in the Pro- 
 vince of Ontario. 
 
 The government of Canada is Federal, and is centered at Ottawa, 
 which city is the capital of the Dominion, while all the provinces and 
 the northwest territories have their respective local legislatures. The 
 head of the Federal Government is the Governor-General, who is ap- 
 pointed by the Queen of Great Britain and holds office for five years, his 
 salary, $50,000 per annum, being paid by the Dominion government. 
 
 (402) 
 
THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 
 
 403 
 
 The Governor- General has a Cabinet, consisting of the Premier, who 
 is president of the Privy Committee, and heads of various general de- 
 partments or offices. The salary of each member of the Cabinet is 
 $7,000 per annum, with the exception of the Premier, who receives 
 $8,000. The general legislature is composed of the Senate (or Dominion 
 Parliament), consisting of eighty members, and the House of Commons, 
 with 213 members. The members of the House of Commons are elected 
 under the several provincial fran- 
 chises in accordance with the 
 Federal Act passed in 1898; but 
 the Senators are appointed for life 
 by the Crown on the nomination 
 of the Governor-in-Council. The 
 various provinces have each a 
 Lieutenant-Governor appointed by 
 the Federal Government, for a 
 term of five years. The members 
 of the legislatures are elected 
 directly by the people in the va- 
 rious provinces. The highest 
 court in the Dominion is the Su- 
 preme Court, composed of the 
 Chief Justice and five associate 
 judges, the Chief Justice receiv- 
 ing $8,000 and the associates 
 $7,000 each as an annual salary. 
 The only appeal from this court 
 is to the Imperial Privy Council of Great Britain. All lower courts 
 (except the Court of Exchequer, created for the special purpose of trying 
 revenue cases) are limited in jurisdiction to their respective provinces. 
 
 The progress of Canada during the last quarter of a century has been 
 marvelous, her population being nearly one-half more than it was 
 twenty-five years ago. Eailways have spread themselves like a network 
 over the rich farm lands from ocean to ocean, along the southern borders 
 of the Dominion, and are now rapidly pushing themselves into the deep 
 forests and mineral regions of the interior and the northwest, the total 
 
 26 
 
 RT. HON. SIR JOHN A. MACDONALD, G. C. B. 
 Prime Minister of Canada, 1878-1891. 
 
404 
 
 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 
 
 mileage in 1899 being over 17,000 miles, which, in proportion to the 
 population, is more than any other country can boast. Along the lines 
 of these railroads prosperous towns and cities are springing up. Canada 
 has two cities, Montreal and Toronto, of more than 200,000 inhabitants, 
 while Quebec, Hamilton, and Ottawa have between 50,000 and 100,000 
 each. Following these come St. John, Halifax, London, Winnipeg, 
 Kingston, Victoria, Vancouver, St. Henry, Brantford, Charlottetown, 
 
 MAIN STBEET AND CITY SQUARE, WINNIPEG, MANITOBA PROVINCE. 
 
 Hull, Guelph, St. Thomas, Windsor, Sherbrooke, Dawson City, in the 
 Klondike, and many other prosperous and growing centres of trade, and 
 ranging in population from 10,000 to 50.000 inhabitants. 
 
 In manufacturing almost every branch of industry is to be found, and 
 the progressive enterprise of Canada is second only to her big cousin in 
 the south. In fact, the Dominion's five million people manufacture 
 nearly everything they want, and rival in many specialties the 75,000,- 
 000 children of Uncle Sam. The best evidence of her progress in 
 
THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 405 
 
 manufacturing is seen in the fact that she exports many thousand dol- 
 lars' worth of goods annually more than she buys — her largest sales 
 being made to England, while the United States comes second on her list 
 of purchasers. 
 
 The population of Canada is varied with the locations. In Ontario 
 the people are generally English. In Quebec and many other portions 
 of what was formerly called Lower Canada, the original settlers were 
 French, and their descendants are still in the majority and retain many 
 of the habits and customs of their mother country — so far, in fact, that, 
 though England has ruled the land for about one hundred and fifty yoars, 
 the French language is still almost exclusively spoken. Even in the 
 cities of Montreal and Quebec the prevalence of that language makes 
 the visitor from Toronto feel that he is in a foreign city. 
 
 In the west, until a few years ago, the prevailing population was the 
 original Indian and the half-breed. But this element, though still nu- 
 merous, is fast being swallowed up or hidden by the throng of immigrants 
 who are now pouring into that vast and resourceful region. These immi- 
 grants, unlike those of the older eastern provinces, are made up of all 
 nationalities of northern Europe, the British Isles, however, being well 
 represented. Out of this mixture a new people, combining the good and 
 progressive elements of various nations, is springing up. In this respect 
 the Canadians of the northwest are much like the inhabitants of the 
 northwestern United States. 
 
 Population at present is densest on the southern borders of the coun- 
 try, along the Great Lakes and the shores of the St. Lawrence. The in- 
 terior is very sparsely settled ; and as the latitude increases, except that 
 warmed by the winds of the Pacific, the cold of winter becomes more 
 intense, until, in the northern part of the Dominion, it is practically 
 impossible for the Caucasian race to live with comfort. Much of this 
 unbroken wilderness is covered with gigantic forests, which make lum- 
 bering the chief industry of that section, as agriculture is of the lower 
 latitudes. In fact, lumbering and agriculture are the chief industries of 
 all sections except the sea-coasts, where fishing interests are of great 
 importance, and certain portions of the great northwest, like the Yukon 
 districts, where mining is predominant. 
 
406 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 
 
 Climate. 
 
 The climate of Canada as a whole has strongly contrasted tempera- 
 tures between the summer and winter months ; the only notable excep- 
 tion to this being found in a comparatively narrow strip along the Pacific 
 Coast, on the west side of the Coast Ran^e mountains of British Colum- 
 bia. The eastern division of Canada is everywhere characterized by hot 
 summers and cold winters, during which snow lies upon the ground 
 generally for several months and most of the rivers and lakes are ice- 
 bound, St. John, New Brunswick, and Halifax, Nova Scotia, being the 
 only large eastern ports of Canada proper on the Atlantic side which 
 remain open through the winter. The rainfall in all this region is sea- 
 sonable and ample for agricultural purposes. The moisture-bearing 
 winds come chiefly from the southeast, while in winter cold, dry winds 
 from the northwest are characteristic. 
 
 The Province of Quebec. 
 
 The Province of Quebec extends from the strait of Belle Isle on 
 the east, westward a distance of nearly 1,000 miles, w T ith an average 
 breadth of 300 miles. It includes the southern part of the peninsula of 
 Labrador and the large island of Anticosti in its jurisdiction. The pro- 
 vince is abundantly watered by rivers and lakes, which are well stocked 
 with trout, bass, salmon, and other valuable fish. Fisheries, in fact, 
 furnish a considerable share of the provincial income. 
 
 The province is also rich in minerals, gold, copper, iron, lead, plat- 
 inum, zinc, and asbestos being mined in paying quantities. There is no 
 coal in the province, but large and valuable deposits of peat have been 
 found. There are vast tracts of forest lands and an immense lumber 
 trade. These forests form a most important element, both of the grand 
 scenery and of the natural wealth, the value of her exports in timber 
 alone amounting to from twelve to fourteen millions annually. Animals 
 and their products, however, rank first among Quebec's exports, this 
 item amounting to nearly $18,000,000 annually. Dairying is one of the 
 chief industries of the inhabitants, their butter and cheese being of a 
 superior quality. Agriculture comes next to timber in importance. 
 
 The scenery of Quebec is grand, consisting of deep forests, mountains, 
 elevated plateaus, islands of the gulf, rugged shores and jutting head- 
 
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THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 407 
 
 lands, much of it being in sight from the deck of a vessel on the river 
 and Gulf of St. Lawrence. 
 
 The foreign commerce of Quebec (excluding imports from the United 
 States) exceeds that of all other provinces. Its geographical position 
 gives it naturally this pre-eminence, and it must continue so long as the 
 St. Lawrence is the great Canadian channel of communication with 
 Europe. Ships of the line navigate the river as far as the city of Quebec, 
 and steamships of over 5,000 tons may ascend even to Montreal. The 
 Richelieu River, Lake Champlain, and several short canals connect the 
 St. Lawrence with the Hudson, while Ottawa River is navigable for 250 
 miles, and the Saguenay for seventy-five. These means of communica- 
 tion and of transit, as well as the complete railroad communication 
 enjoyed by Montreal and Quebec with the interior lumber districts, and 
 the agricultural country south and west, make the province one of the 
 most important commercial regions in North America. 
 
 The educational matters of the province are under the control of a 
 superintendent of public instruction, assisted by a council of five mem- 
 bers. The schools are Protestant and Roman Catholic. They are under 
 the immediate charge of local boards and local clergy; and are partly 
 supported by government grants and partly by local taxation. Late 
 reports show that there are nearly 6,000 educational establishments in 
 the province, attended approximately by 300,000 pupils, 82 per cent, 
 of whom are Catholic and 18 per cent. Protestant children. 
 
 Montreal. 
 
 Montreal is the metropolis of the Dominion of Canada, and its chief 
 port of entry. The city is located at the head of ocean navigation, and 
 at the foot of the navigable waters of the great lake, river, and canal 
 svstem. 
 
 Beautiful of situation is Montreal. She is built upon a series of ter- 
 races which rise from the shores of an island lying at the confluence 
 of the St. Lawrence and Ottawa Rivers. Immense basins, locks, and 
 wharves, stretching for two miles along the great river, form a magnifi- 
 cent harbor, while the massive Mount Royal, rising behind the great 
 city, stands like a giant sentinel watching over it, and holding in its 
 bosom stone enough to build homes for a million inhabitants. Most of 
 
408 
 
 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 
 
 the public edifices, and many of the finest churches and residences, are 
 built of stone quarried from the northern face of this mountain. The 
 western slopes of the height are occupied by Catholic and Protestant 
 cemeteries, and a beautiful park of 400 acres is laid out upon its oval- 
 shaped top. Rapid incline railroads take the visitor quickly to the sum- 
 mit, and the view from Mount Royal is one of the grandest in North 
 America. In the distance are seen the Laurentian Hills, and the impos- 
 
 ST. JAMES STREET, MONTREAL. 
 
 jug sweep of river and valley to the north and east; and there, below 
 one's feet, are the array of towers and spires and the massive public 
 buildings, colleges, and convents, sinking away toward the harbor of the 
 St. Lawrence, which is bristling with the spars and masts of crowded 
 shipping; to the west lies a bewildering panorama of valleys, lakes, 
 rivers, and islands ; to the southeast and south are two beautifully im- 
 proved islands ; between which (spanning the St. Lawrence) is the Vic- 
 toria Bridge ; there is also the Lachine Canal (which flanks the rapids 
 
THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 409 
 
 of the St. Lawrence and allows the ascent of lake craft) — and there, too, 
 far away in the blue distance, loom up against the sky the Adirondacks 
 of New York and the Green Mountains in Vermont. The population of 
 Montreal approximates 250,000, and that of the province about one and 
 three-quarter millions. 
 
 Quebec. 
 
 Down the river from Montreal, about 150 miles, stands the second 
 city of the province, Quebec — the most picturesque city, perhaps, in 
 America — the grand fortified gateway to the Dominion of Canada, 
 perched upon a bold table-land rising grandly up on the northwest shore 
 of the St. Lawrence. The traveler on the boat must throw back his 
 head as if looking at a city in the clouds as he approaches it — so high 
 does it seem above the water. On the highest level, 350 feet above the 
 river, is the area of forty acres covered by the famous citadel. This 
 strange old French town must always be regarded as one of the most 
 interesting, as well as one of the quaintest, in America. It was here 
 that the decisive conflict between the French and the English for the 
 possession of 'the St. Lawrence valley took place. To the north of the 
 citadel, between the fortress and the great Ursuline Convent, is a monu- 
 ment erected to the memories of the two heroes of that great battle, 
 Wolfe and Montcalm. The historic Plains of Abraham, where the battle 
 was fought, lie southwest of the city. The harbor of Quebec rivals that 
 of Montreal, but her chief industry — ship building — w T as seriously crip- 
 pled when iron ships took the place of wooden vessels. A staple export 
 of lumber she still holds, especially in white pine. 
 
 The Province of Ontario. 
 
 Ontario is the most important, the most populous, and the wealthiest 
 province of the Dominion of Canada. Its chief wealth is drawn from 
 the forests and products of the soil. The southern country is sheltered 
 and almost enclosed by Lake Ontario, the Georgian Bay and its connect- 
 ing bodies of water, and Lakes Huron, St. Clair, and Erie, and is especi- 
 ally adapted for agricultural purposes. Not only is the soil fertile, but 
 this garden of Canada, as it is called, has a climate so tempered by the 
 great southern waters that the extremes of Canadian winter and summer 
 are both modified. The orchards of apples, peaches, plums, and pears 
 
410 
 
 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 
 
 which flourish in this fertile triangle make it the fruit country of Canada. 
 The cereals flourish also, and further north much of the land is pe- 
 culiarly fitted for the growing of grass and root crops, so that cattle- 
 raising and the beef trade with England are being rapidly developed into 
 leading sources of revenue. Wool-growing is another very profitable 
 industry of these grass-producing regions, the average, wool crop being 
 about 6,000,000 pounds annually. 
 
 CITADEL AS SEEN FROM HAEBOE, QUEBEC. 
 
 The province also enjoys an enormous timber trade, and she has vast 
 mines of minerals which are in their infancy of development. The de- 
 posits of copper near Sudberry are among the richest in. the world, and 
 recent smelting works are prepared now to take care of this ore, which 
 was formerly shipped to England for reduction. Nickel ores of great 
 richness have also been found in the Sudberry district; silver has been 
 found at many points ; iron ore is abundant and of fine quality ; gold, 
 galena, and zinc have been discovered at a number of points; mica, ser- 
 
THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 
 
 411 
 
 pentine, granite, marble, freestone, and sandstone of excellent quality 
 and in inexhaustible quantities. Petroleum exists in abundance, and 
 more than a dozen refineries are kept busy refining the product of the 
 province. No coal of value has yet been discovered, but the southern 
 portions of the province are so near the coal fields of Pennsylvania and 
 Ohio that manufacturing industries do not suffer seriously. The Grand 
 Trunk Railroad, which taps the richest districts of the province, connects 
 
 THE PARLIAMENT BUILDINGS, TORONTO. 
 
 directly with the great northern lines of the United States, which fact 
 has been a material factor in Ontario's surprising development of late 
 years. 
 
 Cities. 
 
 Ontario has a number of important cities. Toronto heads the list, 
 and in point of population stands next to Montreal. The city is situ- 
 ated on a safe and commodious harbor on the north shore of Lake On- 
 tario, in the centre of a rich agricultural district, and has many flourish- 
 
412 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 
 
 ing manufactures. Owing to the excellent facilities furnished by the 
 Grand Trunk and Canadian Pacific Railways, as well as the numerous 
 lines of steamers which connect it with the leading ports of the lakes, 
 Toronto is not only the great point of import and distribution for West- 
 ern Canada, but it is the most important factor in binding the provinces 
 of the far west to the older and more opulent ones of the east. This city 
 is both the financial metropolis and the centre of the wholesale trade for 
 Western Canada. Toronto is also the government and educational centre 
 of the province. She has beautiful monuments of architecture in the 
 new parliament and municipal buildings, as well as in her college and 
 university structures, museums, art galleries, and public libraries. In 
 the 17th century this now flourishing city was a landing or meeting- 
 place for hunting and trading parties. 
 
 The town was founded in 1793, and the Indian title Toronto was 
 dropped and York became its name. During the War of 1812 York 
 was captured and burned by the American forces. In 1834 it was incor- 
 porated as a city and its old name, Toronto, was restored. 
 
 In Toronto at present there are 50,000 public and private buildings, 
 and its population is estimated at from 210,000 to 225,000. The 
 assessed valuation of its property is over $160,000,000. The city is cele- 
 brated for its aquatic sports, and during the boating season, in the 
 afternoon and evening, the bay is the scene of a grand carnival, which 
 in winter is varied by ice-boating — a very exciting sport. Visitors to 
 the city are at once struck with the fact that the streets are well laid 
 out, very spacious, and regularly built. The main arteries of travel are 
 Queen and York Streets, which cross each other at right angles and 
 divide the city into four large sections. Hamilton, London, Brantford, 
 and Guelph are other prominent cities of the province full of enterprise. 
 They are all making a steady growth. 
 
 Ottawa, the capital of the Dominion, is also in Ontario. It was 
 selected by Queen Victoria to be the general seat of government in 1858, 
 because of its (at that time) central geographical location in upper and 
 lower Canada. Quebec, Montreal, and Toronto and other points were 
 quarreling with each other as to which was entitled to the honor of being 
 the capital city. The Queen settled it by selecting a city along the 
 
THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 
 
 413 
 
 Ottawa Biver, which divides the two provinces ; and when the Dominion 
 was formed, it naturally became the capital of all Canada. 
 
 The city had, by the census of 1891, 44,154 inhabitants, and has 
 grown considerably since. It stretches for two miles along the river, a 
 cluster of hills rising from its centre. Upon one of the most prominent 
 elevations, formerly called Barrack Hill, are the government buildings, 
 
 OTTAWA, LOOKING- DOWN THE BIVER. 
 In left corner is seen Tower of the Parliament Buildings. 
 
 composed of Potsdam sandstone. They are in the Italian Gothic style, 
 and are among the finest specimens of architecture in North America. 
 The main front of the capitol building is 470 feet long, and over it rises 
 the Victoria Tower, 180 feet high, surmounted by a great iron crown. 
 The corner-stone of this building was laid by the Prince of Wales in 
 1860. Opposite to Ottawa, in the Province of Quebec, is the city of Hull, 
 really a suburb of Ottawa, and across the waters of the Rideau River 
 is New Edinburg, another suburb. 
 
414 
 
 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 
 
 Ottawa attracts the best people of all Canada ; and, socially, holds 
 first position in the Dominion. The city also is the centre of large busi- 
 ness interests, especially in lumber, for which it is centrally located. 
 
 Other Provinces. 
 
 Of the other provinces we deem it unnecessary to enter into details. 
 Ontario and Quebec contain nearly three-fourths of the entire population 
 
 at this time, and may be taken as 
 fairly representative of the whole. 
 The northwest, however, is rapidly 
 increasing in population, wealth, 
 and influence. Five new prov- 
 inces, namely, Mackenzie, TTngava, 
 and Franklin, with an area of 
 1,019,200 square miles; Yukon, 
 with 198,300; Keewatin, 756,000, 
 have been carved from the pre- 
 viously unorganized regions since 
 1891. The Province of Manitoba 
 is remarkablv rlourishins:. 
 
 Natural Scenery. 
 
 The physical dimensions of the 
 Dominion guarantee a great variety 
 of natural attractions. There are 
 mountains as wild as are to be 
 found anywhere in northern lati- 
 tudes in . both the east and west 
 of the Dominion. There are vast plains covered with grass. There are 
 thousands upon thousands of square miles of untouched forest lands? 
 whose solitudes are as deep as those in the heart of the " Dark Conti- 
 nent ; " there are thousands upon thousands of great and small lakes, 
 and rivers of clear and limpid waters. There are glaciers in the north- 
 west whose proportions rival those of Greenland. 
 
 With the United States of America Canada divides the ownership of 
 the largest fresh-water lakes of the world. She is half-owner in Niagara. 
 
 RT. HON. J. S. D. THOMPSON", K. O. M. Q. 
 
 Prime Minister of Canada, 1892-1894. 
 
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THE DOMINION OF CANADa. 415 
 
 the earth's greatest waterfall, and more than half-owner of the St. 
 Lawrence River, which carries the water of all the great lakes to the sea, 
 pouring more fresh water into the ocean than any other river except the 
 Amazon. The whole story of Canada is intimately connected with this 
 great river, by means of which pioneers, starting from Quebec and Mon- 
 treal, overrun a great part of the interior of the continent before the 
 settlers of the Atlantic Coast had crossed the Appalachian chain. In 
 its upper course the St. Lawrence is from one to seven miles in width, 
 while below Quebec it is from twenty to thirty miles wide. The St. 
 Lawrence River is a proper name, really, for all the connecting links 
 from Lake Superior to the sea. The large bodies of water known as the 
 Great Lakes are but lowlands which this mighty river filled up. Hence 
 the St. Louis, the St. Mary's, the St. Clair, and the Niagara Rivers — 
 connecting links between the lakes — are but the upper St. Lawrence. 
 Counted thus, the St. Lawrence is 2,100 miles long, and drains an area 
 of 530,000 square miles. Throughout its entire length the most beauti- 
 ful scenery abounds. Some of it, like Niagara and the Lake of the 
 Thousand Islands, are among the most famous natural objects of the 
 world. The name, Lake of the Thousand Islands, does not do the place 
 it represents justice. This lake, which is really the exit of the St. Law- 
 rence from Lake Ontario, is forty miles long and from four to seven miles 
 wide, and contains about 1,700 islands. Many of these islands are favor- 
 ite summer resorts, with hotels and boarding-houses, while numerous 
 others of them are owned by private individuals. Scores of summer 
 cottages and luxurious mansions are built upon them. A sail through 
 the Thousand Islands is most delightful, reminding one of some fair 
 dream of fairy-land. The rapids, the bluffs, the forts of England and 
 America, the light-houses — a thousand and one varied objects — make a 
 trip down the mighty river from Kingston to Quebec an unending source 
 of novel delight. 
 
 The Sportsman's Paradise. 
 
 It is not remarkable, with its vast domain of uninhabited wilds, that 
 Canada should be a sportsman's paradise. Both as a fishing and a 
 hunting ground no portion of the earth's surface, can surpass it. In all 
 parts of the Dominion, and especially in the vicinity of Quebec, and to 
 the north, west, and east of it, hundreds of limpid lakes, varying from a 
 
416 
 
 THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 
 
 few acres to miles in extent, are set like gems in the midst of forests as 
 yet hardly touched by the axe. These lakes are teeming with speckled 
 trout, lake trout, and black bass, of a rapacity and size to thrill the lover 
 of Isaac Walton's gentle art with joy. 
 
 The shooting is equally as good as the fishing ; but the game laws of 
 Canada put certain restrictions upon this sport that the fisherman does 
 not encounter. 
 
 Great Men of the Dominion. 
 
 Canada is justly proud of her illustrious sons. Foremost among them 
 
 all stands Sir John Alexander Mac- 
 donald, the organizer of the Domin- 
 ion of Canada, and, longer than any 
 other man, her Prime Minister. 
 This celebrated statesman was 
 largely a self-made man. He was 
 born in Glasgow, Scotland, Janu- 
 ary 11, 1815, but came to America 
 when he was five years old. At 
 the age of fifteen he was appren- 
 ticed to a lawyer at Kingston, Ont., 
 and a short while before he be- 
 came of age, in 1836, he was ad- 
 mitted to the bar. In 1844 he 
 was elected to the House of Assem- 
 bly, and for the last thirty-five 
 vears of his life, from the time he 
 first became premier of Old Can- 
 ada, in 1856, he was the acknowl- 
 edged leader of the Conservatives, 
 and during his final administration, 1878 to the time of his death in 
 1891, was generally regarded throughout Europe as the foremost states- 
 man of the American continent. 
 
 Next to Macdonald, Sir John Sparrow David Thompson stands perhaps 
 highest among Conservative leaders. Notwithstanding the fact that he 
 was nineteen years younger than Macdonald, throughout his public life 
 he and the great organizer were bosom friends, being generally referred 
 
 k 
 
 BT. HOI, SIB. WILFRID LAUEIEE, 
 Prime Minister of Canada, 1896. 
 
THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 417 
 
 to by their admiring constituents as the " two Johns." Macdonald often 
 remarked that the greatest discovery he ever made was Thompson. Sir 
 John Thompson was born in Halifax, N. S., November 10, 1844. He 
 entered public life early, and in 1881 was made premier of his native 
 province. Four years later he was elected to the Dominion House of 
 Commons, where he at once gained a reputation, and in 1892 succeeded 
 Sir John Abbott as premier. He died suddenly at Windsor Castle, Sep- 
 tember 15, 1894, shortly after being sworn in as a member of the Privy 
 Council. 
 
 Among the leaders of the opposition in the Canadian House of Com- 
 mons in recent times, the Hon. Sir Charles Tupper stands prominently 
 to the front. He was born in Nova Scotia, July 2, 1821. In early man- 
 hood he became prominent in provincial affairs, and occupied the posi- 
 tion of premier of Nova Scotia at the time of the confederation in 1867. 
 For fourteen consecutive times he was returned as a member of Parlia- 
 ment, and from 1870 to '72 was president of the Privy Council. In 1896 
 he became premier of the Dominion, but soon after resigned. 
 
 The Rt. Hon. Sir Wilfrid Laurier, the first French Canadian to hold 
 this high position, was elected in 1896 to succeed Sir Charles Tupper. 
 This distinguished descendant of the ancient Gauls has the zeal and fire 
 of his race, coupled with the most farseeing statesmanship, and the 
 highest order of judicial mind and liberal democratic sentiments. He 
 was born in Quebec, November 20, 1841. When thirty years of age he 
 entered Parliament and came rapidly to the front. During the MacKen- 
 zie administration he was minister of the Inland Revenue. In 1891 he 
 became the acknowledged leader of the Liberals, which position he still 
 holds. Perhaps no public man of Canada, aside from Sir John Mac- 
 donald, has stood higher in popular esteem than does the present 
 premier. 
 
 Space forbids reference in detail to other political, educational, and 
 religious leaders who have helped to shape the history, and forecast the 
 great and propitious destiny of the Dominion of Canada — the largest and 
 most promising of Her Majesty's colonial possessions. 
 
 The Canadian government joined heartly in the Pan-American Ex- 
 position, held at Buffalo, in 1901, making the most creditable exhibits 
 on the ground, with exception of that of the United States. 
 
DISTANT VIEW FROM THE CAB WINDOW AT NIGHT. 
 
 XLII. 
 
 A WEEK AT THE 
 PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION. 
 
 LADDIN'S lamp and its marvelous mysteries pale into 
 insignificance before the actual wonders that have 
 been accomplished during the nineteenth century. 
 The history of the world in panorama for the last 
 hundred years was partially done for the fortunate 
 visitor at the great World's Fair at Paris in 1900. 
 But, so far as the New World is concerned, it has 
 been much more completely done in the Pan-American 
 Exposition, held at Buffalo, from May 1st to October 31st, 
 1901. The airy-fairy and wild imaginings of ancient fables 
 have been more than matched, and worked out in concrete 
 form, and examined in detail at Buffalo by millions, to their 
 edification and delight. Such expositions are vast educational institu- 
 tions, and as such their value cannot be measured. 
 
 Professor Glee and his party of young tourists were among the number 
 
 who visited this great show," making it the finishing point — the keystone 
 in the triumphal arch — of their sight-seeing journey around the world. 
 
 They spent a week in viewing and studying the interesting and instruc- 
 tive exhibits, and it is our purpose here to tell you what the young 
 
 (418) 
 
A WEEK AT THE PAN- AMERICAN EXPOSITION 
 
 4li) 
 
 people saw and some of the facts they learned under the skilful guidance 
 of the Professor who had piloted them in a tour of the globe. 
 
 "Why did they call it Pan- American Exposition?" asked one inquisi- 
 tive youth. "Pan means all," replied the Professor. "This is an all- 
 American Exposition. No nations except those belonging to the New 
 World are invited to exhibit. Canada, the United States, Mexico and 
 all Central and South American countries and the islands of the New 
 
 World (also the Hawaiian and 
 the Philippine Islands, be- 
 cause they belong to the 
 United States), are invited to 
 show their products, manners, 
 customs, etc." 
 
 Another thinking young fel- 
 low wanted to know why they 
 invited only people of the 
 New World to take part. The 
 Professor explained that, long 
 ago, the great American states- 
 man, Henry Clay, and later 
 James G. Blaine, had dreamed 
 of a family of American re- 
 publics living harmoniously 
 side by side, and havin<r kindly 
 interests in the welfare of one 
 another ; and how this senti- 
 ment of reciprocity of trade 
 and friendship had grown until 
 this exposition was one of 
 the fruits of it. He told them' that this exposition was first thought 
 of and mentioned by some Buffalo gentlemen at the Atlanta Cotton 
 Exposition, and, like Jack's beanstalk, it grew fast and big beyond their 
 expectations, so that within a few days the Buffalo people had subscribed 
 over half a million dollars; soon it became over a million. They induced 
 New York State to give them $300,000 more, and Congress voted $500,- 
 000. Quickly they organized, and, with their board of twenty-five 
 
 27 
 
 THE ETHNOLOGY BUILDINGS, DEVOTED TO 
 SPECIAL HISTORIC EXHIBITS. 
 
420 
 
 A WEEK AT THE PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION. 
 
 directors, they raised altogether over $10,000,000 for it, and their 
 enthusiasm grew with the money subscribed. One of the directors 
 said: "Let us build the most beautiful group of exposition structures 
 the world ever saw." "And," added another, "we will use Niagara's 
 power to give the scene a day-light brilliancy at night." A third pro- 
 posed to make the grounds a fairyland of flowers. Another said they 
 must have a glow of rich and brilliant color decorations on the build- 
 ings — not like the World's Fair — so much white. "And we will em- 
 bellish the archi- 
 tecture with beau- 
 tiful American 
 sculptures," said 
 another. "And 
 have an art gal- 
 lery with nothing 
 but New World 
 paintings," said 
 another. 
 
 And so thev 
 continued adding 
 beautiful pools, 
 dancing fountains, 
 flower gardens, 
 sodded plots and 
 mossy banks, omit- 
 ting nothing that would help to make the picture one to enrapture every 
 beholder, as well as to make the exposition a source of great education 
 and good to art, science, the advancement of civilization, showing in the 
 most impressive, pleasing manner possible the great progress of the 
 peoples of the Western Hemisphere during the century just closed, and 
 bringing them into a more intimate social and commercial relationship." 
 
 On nearing the city at night our party looked eagerly out of the car 
 windows at the illuminated buildings of the exposition grounds. Noth- 
 ing quite so enchanting had met their eyes in all their journey round 
 the world. But they must wait a closer view to-morrow night, and 
 stand with the multitude in the darkened esplanade, to realize the 
 
 A MUSIC PAVILION ON THE ESPLANADE. 
 
A WEEK AT THE PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION. 
 
 421 
 
 sensational effect of turning on these more than one million electric 
 lights at once, changing midnight into noonday. 
 
 Morning finds the party rested and eager to get into the grounds. 
 There are many entrances, but we enter by the main one — the beautiful' 
 southern gateway at the end of Lincoln Park-drive, where tall maples 
 and elms intertwine their branches above us in the delightful summer 
 atmosphere. 
 
 Fifty cents is the price of admission. We pay it cheerfully, and feel 
 a little thrill of delight as the turnstyle clicks behind us and we stand 
 
 within the charm- 
 ing precincts. The 
 shrubbery is gay 
 with blosssms and 
 the air is heavy, 
 with their per- 
 fume. 
 
 To the right is a 
 lake three-quar- 
 ters of a mile long, 
 on which pleasure ' 
 boats are passing 
 to and fro. We ' 
 might take one of 
 them across to the 
 Art Building, but • 
 we prefer to walk, 
 
 as Professor Glee wants us to cross the beautiful three-arched bridge 
 called the ''Bridge of the Three Americas," in order to impress us, he 
 said, that this exposition was for North, South and Central America. As 
 we stood upon this bridge the Professor remarked : " Now, we are ready 
 to begin our sight-seeing. Directing your attention to the left, you see 
 upon the far bank of the lake a noble white edifice of Vermont marble, 
 which we shall visit soon. It is the New York State Building, and is . 
 one of the few of all these beautiful structures that is to remain. All 
 the others, except the art building and that New Casino and boathouse 
 which you observe on the south bank, will be torn down and moved 
 
 THE OHIO STATE BUILDING AT THE FAIR. 
 
422 A WEEK AT THE PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION. 
 
 away as soon as the Exposition closes. The New York building cost 
 $175,000, and after the Exposition is over it is to be the home of the 
 Buffalo Historical Society. Before we leave the bridge, notice also 
 ranged along the bend of the lake are the various State buildings, typi- 
 fying as nearly as possible the architecture prevalent in the States they 
 represent. 
 
 The visit to the State buildings was begun with eagerness. The in- 
 
 ' teriors were filled with interesting pictures, books, curios and objects of 
 
 information concerning the respective States the buildings represented, 
 
 while intelligent attendants from each particular State were on hand 
 
 ready to give any information desired. 
 
 The State Buildings Visited. 
 
 Of course every member of the party wanted to go to his own State 
 building ; so they visited them all and made comparisons. A few of the 
 States were not represented by special structures, but all had exhibits in 
 the main buildings. All the New England States joined together and 
 constructed one large typical New England house of red brick in Colonial 
 style, with a room devoted to each State — the name lettered over the 
 door — and it was a treat to go from one room to another and see their 
 furniture, pictures, etc., just as customs varied, them in New. England. 
 
 Next to New York, Illinois had the most expensive State building, 
 costing $75,000. The Michigan building with its exhibits cost $40,000 ; 
 the Ohio building, $30,000; Missouri building, $50,000. Pennsylvania had 
 a $35,000 building. Even the faraway new State of Washington spent 
 $25,000 on her State building, as did also the States of Oregon, Wisconsin, 
 Alabama, New Jersey and Maryland. Idaho, with her small population, 
 put up a $15,000 building, and Minnesota had a very pretty house 
 costing $20,000. Georgia, Kentucky, Delaware, Montana, Mississippi, 
 Louisiana and Texas were represented by very creditable exhibits, but 
 had no State buildings. 
 
 The Nebraska Sod House attracted a great deal of attention. It was 
 built of sod brought from Nebraska, with the grass and weeds growing 
 up the sides of the wall. It was in such houses as this the pioneer 
 Nebraskan lived forty years ago, and it is as typical of the Northwestern 
 plain-life in early times as the log cabin is of the early forest settlers. 
 
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 i 
 
 I 111 1 
 
 THE ELECTRIC TOWER, PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION 
 
 This magnificent architectural centrepiece of the Exposition is 409 feet in height. The main body of the tower is nearly 300 
 
 feet high and 80 feet square. The statue of the Goddess of Light which ciowns the tower is 18 feet tall. The 
 
 tower stands in the centre of the great basin, all about its base are many fountains playing, and 
 
 from the southern face a cascade 30 feet wide and 75 feet high pours like a bridal veil. 
 
 There are nearly 100 search lights used in this tower, and it is illuminated by 
 
 40,000 incandescent lamps. It looks like a pillar of fire at night. 
 

 
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A WEEK AT THE PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION. 423 
 
 This house was presided over by Mrs. Bowser, a typical Nebraska lady 
 of the old school ; and as we "were told she had the best restaurant on 
 the ground, our hungry party inade a royal dinner on her famous 
 "creamed chicken." 
 
 Strange South American Buildings. 
 
 Close by the State buildings were stranger looking houses representing 
 some of the South American and Central American countries. "The 
 styles of architecture," said the Professor, "are just such as we saw in 
 the Central and South American countries." In visiting; them we could 
 almost imagine ourselves back on that part of our journey round the 
 world, so faithful and realistic were their exhibits. 
 
 The young people were especially interested in Chili's handsome ex- 
 hibit, which cost $170,000. Their building alone cost $28,000. In pass- 
 ing through it we were struck with the vast agricultural, forest and 
 mineral resources which this narrow little country along the South 
 American Coast displayed. 
 
 Little Honduras of Central America had a graceful house costing $6,000, 
 and her exhibits from mines and forest surprised many Americans at her 
 wealth of valuable woods and ores. 
 
 The Cuban Building, costing $25,000, was very interesting and in- 
 structive. It had a central place among the State and foreign buildings. 
 Its architecture was characteristic of the island, with a tower of Havana 
 as a conspicuous feature. The exhibits gathered from all parts of the 
 island illustrated the great variety and surprising value of the resources 
 of that country, and showed to some extent the opportunities offered there 
 for the investment of capital in mines, agriculture and manufacturing 
 enterprises. 
 
 Porto Rico made a very novel exhibit by representing a Porto Rican 
 Ranch with a building twenty-four by seventy-eight feet and twenty feet 
 high, containing most of the exhibits from that productive island. The 
 enterprising citizens of Porto Rico spent $10,000 in making this inter- 
 esting showing, besides being represented in the main Government 
 building. 
 
 The little Republic of San Domingo, on the Island of Hayti, had a 
 pretty West Indian building, costing $4,000, for their exhibits. 
 
424 A WEEK AT THE PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION. 
 
 Mexico had a two-story building containing only the mining exhibits 
 from that country, at which some of the young people were surprised, 
 and wondered if Mexico had nothing but mines to show. The Professor 
 dispelled this delusion by explaining that when they got to the Agricultural 
 building they would find 3,000 square feet devoted to Mexico's farming 
 exhibit ; and in the Horticultural building they would find 2,000 square 
 feet more devoted to her fruits and flowers, and in the forestry building 
 2,000 square feet more devoted to showing her valuable woods, and in 
 the Manufacturers' building yet another 3,000 square feet devoted to 
 Mexican manufacturing, and still another 2,000 square feet devoted to 
 her historical exhibit in the Ethnology building. "Mexico is a great 
 and growing country," said the Professor. " Look out for her. Before 
 you boys and girls are old men we shall be very proud of her as one of 
 the big nations of the Pan-American family." 
 
 Brazil had an attractive exhibit in a miniature Brazilian Fazenda, 
 showing the cultivation of coffee, rubber and other products. She also 
 occupied 500 square feet in the main Agricultural building. 
 
 Ecuador was represented by a splendid house, for which that republic 
 appropriated $16,000. 
 
 "Where are all the other South and Central American buildings?" 
 asked one of the boys. The Professor explained that only seven of them 
 had buildings, but that eighteen out of the twenty-four governments of 
 the New World were represented by special exhibits in the different 
 large buildings. 
 
 " What about Canada?" asked another. "Canada is not to be left," 
 said the Professor. "We shall see the prettiest of all the buildings 
 when we come to her to-morrow or some other day. She is spending 
 over $100,000 on her exhibit, and has her fine house just east of the 
 Agricultural building on the other side of the Grand Canal. I see by 
 the catalogue she makes a large display of minerals. Her resources in 
 metal deposits and her wealth of rich quarries pass all comprehension. 
 She is also rich in agricultural resources. When on the other side we 
 shall see these, and also the other South and Central American exhibits. 
 But before we pass over let us visit some Canadian Indians." At this a 
 shout went up from the boys. — " Indians! 11 
 
A WEEK AT THE PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION. 
 
 425 
 
 Visiting the Indians. 
 
 Indians — The Six Nations — the famous Iriquois. The Professor ex- 
 plained that the huts and the stockade near the Forestry building (which, 
 by the way, they visited later) were their dwelling-places, and led the 
 young people on a tour of their houses and exhibits. They were engaged 
 in making fancy things to sell. There were women and little children and 
 some very old chiefs and medicine men. Old Chief Fishcarrier, 93 years 
 of age, walked about quite lively and shook hands good-naturedly with 
 the boys and girls of the party. These Indians are all civilized and 
 speak English now. History tells much of the warfare that went on 
 between them and the white people during the 200 years before the 
 red men were forced to 
 confine themselves to the 
 reservations in New 
 York State and Canada, 
 where the remnants of 
 the once powerful Iri- 
 quois are now to be 
 found. Upon these re- 
 servations are the only 
 representatives to-day of 
 the Six Nations which 
 made up the famous 
 Iriquois League (t h e 
 most powerful Indian 
 empire north of the 
 Aztecs of Mexico) — the Mohawks, Tuscaroras, Oneidas, Cayugas, Onon- 
 dagas and Senecas. The fierce Western Indians we saw later in the 
 Midway and will speak of in their turn. "Follow me," said the Pro- 
 fessor, "and I will show you something grand. I have purposely led you 
 through the more commonplace, but instructive, State buildings first, 
 knowing how hard it would be to bring you back to them after the 
 magnificence I am now about to show you." 
 
 Exclamations were heard as the party approached the Triumphal 
 Bridge, and as they walked upon it some of the boys brought rustic seats, 
 at their leader's request, and the whole party sat down to let their eyes 
 
 ON THE CANAL SHOWING THE ESPLANADE. 
 
42(3 A WEEK AT THE PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION. 
 
 revel in the scene of unprecedented splendor spread out before them. It 
 was well, for never in the same space, perhaps, was any exposition so 
 richly endowed with all the elements of beauty. Every view was charm- 
 ing, and every object won the attention by its own distinguishing loveli- 
 ness. 
 
 A Beautiful Scene. 
 
 A thousand feet to the right lay the great buildings of the United 
 States Government, flanked on either side by colonnades and pavilions for 
 special exhibits. A thousand feet to the left was the Horticultural 
 building, the great central structure of another magnificent group, in- 
 cluding the Mines and Graphic Arts buildings. To the north, 2,000 
 feet, the Electric Tower rose with inspiring majesty, crowned by the 
 Goddess of Light. In the immediate foreground from where we stood 
 lay the Esplanade, 2,000 feet from east to west and 500 feet from north 
 to south. From the main groups just referred to two long, curved colum- 
 niated structures called pergolas, fitted up for luncheon places, curved 
 gracefully around to the buttresses of the triumphal bridge. This w T as a 
 happy thought in the architect, for these buildings almost completely 
 shaded the circuit, so that visitors could go almost the entire round of 
 the exposition without exposure to the sun. 
 
 The broad Esplanade, with its music pavilions and abundant space, 
 was the place for open-air concerts and all formal ceremonies of propor- 
 tions too large for indoors. Here the young people day after day saw 
 special State militia government troops and cadets from military schools 
 drill. At either side of the Esplanade there were beautiful fountains and 
 sunken gardens fragrant and gay with flowers and graceful groups of 
 statuarv, all of which durina: the next few davs were examined in detail, 
 but the telling of them would be too long here. 
 
 "Professor," said one of the artistic girls, "at first I thought the color- 
 ing too gay, but now I see how it all harmonizes; the red tile roofs, the 
 water, the flowers, the white statuary, the yellow and green and blue 
 and orange trimmings of the buildings all seem made to complement 
 each other." "Exactly so," said the Professor; "such wonderful and 
 beautiful harmony of colors was never seen in any group of buildings 
 before." And it did not happen by chance. These buildings were first 
 constructed in miniature models and grouped in a large room, as you see 
 
A WEEK AT THE PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION. 427 
 
 here, and the best artists of America experimented on the coloring until 
 they got this effect. The miniature city was painted just like this, and 
 it blended so well they called it the " Rainbow City," and the house 
 painters were required to color the big city exactly like the little one. 
 
 The sun went down while we still sat admiring these beauties, and we 
 took supper in one of the pergolas that we might be at the bridge to 
 view the illuminations at night. 
 
 The Grand Illumination. 
 
 Black darkness without a moonbeam came, and we stood with the 
 great silent crowd in the Esplanade at the north side of the Bridge of 
 Triumph. So gently that we hardly perceived it, dim, faint lights came 
 out in the tower and alone: the bridge and the ed2:es of the building. 
 Gradually they grew stronger, until within the space of a few seconds 
 the brilliancy was startling and grand beyond description. 
 
 The crowning glory of the Exposition was this nightly illumination. 
 We saw it every night from all parts of the grounds and always with a 
 new charm and delight. Pictures and words can never convey the im- 
 pressions it produced. It seemed like a glimpse into another world as 
 those gorgeous and delicate lines of light stood out against the black sky 
 that overhung Lake Erie. We took it as a foretaste of the glories of 
 another century. There were the outlines of the buildings all traced in 
 fi-e and the softening colors and brilliant play of glass and gilding and 
 the reflection of this fairyland in the surrounding waters, where gay gon- 
 doliers and electric launches moved gracefully; the jewelled spray of the 
 cascade falling 30 feet wide and 70 feet high from the electric tower, and 
 the dancing jets of thousands of spouting fountains, catching the light, 
 so that it gave an almost spiritual beauty to the groups of statuary, all 
 formed a picture that can never be forgotten. 
 
 The expressions of admiration when this array of electric gorgeousness 
 was thrown upon the heavens was always spontaneous and unanimous, but 
 the exclamations were not boisterous or vulgar. There was no cheering, no 
 clapping of hands, but a universal expression of " Oh, hoiv beautiful! 1 '' 
 " Oh, how glorious!''' spoken in a subdued and almost worshipful tone, 
 that goes up in a low hum of one hundred thousand voices. It is well it 
 should be so, for this was the most lavish electric display the world ever 
 
428 
 
 A WEEK AT THE PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION 
 
 saw possible only because of the enormous power utilized at Niagara. 
 
 which mighty falls makes the electricity cheaply. It is said Niagara 
 
 Falls furnishes more power in one day than all the coal mined in the 
 
 world in the same time. 
 
 "How many lights are in that tower of fire?" asked one young fellow. 
 
 " Over 1,000," said another. " Look at your catalogue," said the Pro- 
 fessor. They did so and read : "The Elec- 
 tric tower is 409 feet high. The Goddess of 
 Lis:ht on its summit is eighteen feet hieh. 
 And the number of electric lights used in 
 illuminating it is 40,000." A whistle of sur- 
 prise went up. " Read on," said the Pro- 
 fessor. "There are ninety-four search- 
 lights in the basin of the tower for illumi- 
 nating the water," continued the reader. 
 " And, then, there are those great search- 
 lights on top that light up even the tower 
 at Niagara Falls, nearly twenty miles 
 away," said the Professor, " Now, it is ten 
 o'clock ; let us go, and in the morning we 
 will take a fresh start." 
 
 When the young people met at breakfast 
 the Professor handed each member of the 
 party a card, on which was printed the 
 following : 
 
 Interesting Facts in Figures About the 
 Exposition. 
 
 THE GODDESS OF LIGHT. 
 
 The Electric Tower is -409 feet high. 
 
 The Goddess of Light is 18 feet high. 
 
 Number of Searchlights in basin of the Tower, 94. 
 
 Number of incandescent lamps used in the illumination of the courts and buildings, 500,000. 
 
 Number of incandescent lamps used in the illumination of the tower, 40,000. 
 
 Wire used in the installation of the illumination system, 400 miles. 
 
 Weight of this wire, 250 tons. 
 
 Area of courts illuminated, 1,390,000 square feet. 
 
 Power necessary for this illumination^ 5,000 horse. 
 
 Water required for the fountain display, 35,000 gallons per minute. 
 
 Height reached by some of the jets in the court fountain, 50 feet, 
 
A WEEK AT THE PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION. 429 
 
 Height of the cascade falling from the Electric Tower, 70 feet. 
 
 Width of the cascade falling from the Electric Tower, 30 feet. 
 
 Basin of the Court of Fountains is 565 by 225 feet. 
 
 Number of pieces of sculpture, 500. 
 
 Number of hardy perennials planted, 200,000. 
 
 Number of flower beds, 500. 
 
 The organ in the Temple of Music cost $15,000. 
 
 Seating capacity of the Temple of Music, 2,200. 
 
 Number of large exhibit buildings, 20. 
 
 Area of Exposition grounds, 350 acres. 
 
 Cost of Exposition, $10,000,000. 
 
 Machinery and Transportation building is 500 by 350 feet. 
 
 Manufacturers and Liberal Arts building is 500 by 350 feet. 
 
 Electricity building is 500 by 150 feet. 
 
 Agriculture building is 500 by 150 feet. 
 
 Horticulture building is 220 square feet. 
 
 Length of main United States G-overnment building is GOO feet. 
 
 This card was scrutinized and the Professor was saved the answering 
 of many questions for the next few days by it. 
 
 The second day thev entered at the Elm wood gate, which was more 
 popular than the main entrance because it ushered visitors right into 
 the Exposition. The splendid piece of sculpture, "The Chariot Race," 
 gives a sense of force and motion at once, and the great floral gardens 
 located here kept it always fragrant and beautiful. Of course we re- 
 velled in the flowers, and thought it very appropriate that the Woman's 
 building was in the midst of this floral display by rival gardeners from 
 all over America. Through the flowered walks and on to the Triumphal 
 Bridge the party sauntered, and paused again to rest while one of them 
 read from the catalogue the following description of the bridge, and the 
 Professor pointed out every detail as mentioned and explained what was 
 not understood : 
 
 The Triumphal Bridge ushers the visitor into the midst of the Exposition. The bridge is a stately 
 structure, swung from four monumental piers, 100 feet in height. Each pier is surmounted by a sculp- 
 tural group — a muscular youth on the back of a horse 30 feet in height, which rears above a mass of 
 trophies indicative of feudalism, slavery and subordination to tyrannical power, the whole expressing the 
 triumphal struggle of the people of the United States to free themselves from the institutions of despotic 
 ages and governments. Terminating the buttresses to the piers are foui' groups of trophies, typifying 
 Peace and Power. The cables connecting the piers, and running north and south, carry enormous festoons, 
 shields of polished copper, flags and coats-of-arms of the various Pan-American countries. In the niches 
 on the side of the bridge are statues symbolical of Charity, Love Of Truth. Patriotism, Liberty,' etc. On 
 each side of the bridge are fountains composed of groups of rearing horses and figures clustered about a 
 
430 A WEEK AT THE PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION 
 
 tall pole, from which a huge silken flag floats. The fountain on the east typifies the Atlantic Ocean, and 
 that on the west the Pacific, with one base uniting the two. The sculpture in connection with these is 
 by Philip Martiny. The water from these fountains gushes forth from the side of the bridge in a massive 
 waterfall into the Mirror Lake, passing through the subterranean grotto, which constitutes one of the 
 unusual features of the Exposition. This grotto has been modeled after the famous Buttes de Chaumont, 
 at Paris, by Mr. Rudolf Ulrich, the landscape architect. 
 
 For want of space we cannot give details of other buildings here, but 
 the young people read them all and noted down the inscriptions on them 
 as well. 
 
 From the bridge we visited the Temple of Music at the northwest 
 corner of the Court of Fountains and Esplanade. This is a centre of 
 interest for music lovers. The temple is very beautiful in its exterior 
 aspect, and contains an auditorium seating 2,200 people. It has a great 
 pipe-organ that cost $15,000, and this is the place for orchestra, vocal 
 and organ concerts and recitals during the Exposition. It is also a 
 meeting hall for other purposes. 
 
 From here we went to the Electric Tower, which architecturally is one 
 of man's noblest productions. There are elevators in the tower, and, at 
 the expense of 25 cents each our whole party went up, where we had a 
 view with field-glasses for 30 miles in every direction. We saw Lakes 
 Erie and Ontario, the Niagara Falls and Canadian shores from this eleva- 
 tion, and had a magnificent bird's-eye view of Buffalo and the Exposition 
 grounds. At an elevation of 110 feet are a restaurant and roof-garden, 
 from which one may obtain commanding views of the Court of Fountains 
 to the southward and the Plaza at the north. 
 
 A Visit to the Plaza. 
 
 The Plaza. — The splendid vieAV from the tower made us anxious to see 
 the Plaza in detail, and we did. It was to the north side of the tower what 
 the Court of Fountains was to the south side, with its magnificent propor- 
 tions of 350 feet by 500 feet square. Its name was suggested by the 
 predominating character of Spanish architecture in the surrounding 
 buildings. 
 
 In its very centre was a large pagoda of ideal beauty and proportions, 
 which stood in the middle of a sunken garden surrounded by a bal- 
 cony and other pagodas, and ornamented with sculptures. In this 
 pagoda the most famous bands of the Western world played their 
 
NIGHT VIEW FROM THE ESPLANADE LOOKING NORTHWEST 
 
 To the right is the Court of Fountains of the Pan-American Exposition, beyond which the electric tower rises 
 
 like a shaft of gold against the black sky. The illuminated dome surmounted by a crown is the 
 
 Temple of Music. Near the centre and bottom of the picture is a band-stand. 
 
 
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 NIGHT VIEW FROM THE ESPLANADE LOOKING NORTHEAST 
 Imagine this picture placed to the right of the one above, and we have a panorama of the grounds surroundin_ 
 the Court of Fountains. The structure to the right resembling the Temp e of Music is the 
 Ethnology Ruilding, at the Pan-American Exposition. 
 
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A WEEK AT THE PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION. 431 
 
 choicest selections to delighted multitudes. Upon the northern boundary 
 of the Plaza were two towered monumental entrances leading to the Ex- 
 position from the great railway station. They were connected by a curved 
 colonnade, 400 feet long, decorated with brilliant colors and statuary, 
 and forming a screen, shutting out the smoke and noise of trains. The 
 structure was known as the Propylaea. The Plaza was always gay, for 
 upon its eastern side was the entrance to the Stadium, made in imitation 
 of that constructed by Lycurgus in Athens 2,200 years ago. It seated 
 over 12,000 people, the place of athletic events, pageants and formal 
 ceremonies. Upon the western side was the entrance to the Midway, 
 with its wonderful variety of unique entertainments. The sight of it 
 made the young people anxious to go at once into this great variety 
 show, nearly a mile long; but their leader had planned to show them the 
 substantial things first. 
 
 The Government Buildings. 
 
 " Now for the Government buildings," said the Professor. " There are 
 three ways of getting there without much walking. We may take the 
 miniature railway and transfer across the Mall (the Mall is the beautiful 
 street with sunken gardens running through the grounds from east to 
 west, fronting the main buildings and the Court of Fountains), paying 
 two fares ; or we may take a wheel-chair at fifty cents an hour, or one of 
 these queer Japanese ' Jinnikashas ' for one dollar an hour ; or we may 
 go via the Grand Canal in a gondola or electric launch for twenty-five 
 cents each." We chose the water route and got aboard, some in the 
 gondola and some on the launch at the foot of the tower. 
 
 Imagine our pleasure as, for nearly a mile, we glided under the beautiful 
 arched bridges, skirted the Agricultural building on both sides, passed 
 the Dairy building, and went thence under the Mall, followed along the 
 east side of the Manufacturers' and Liberal Arts buildings, passed the 
 Live Stock building, rounded the east side of the Government buildings 
 and on the south side stepped ashore. 
 
 We plunged at once into sight-seeing, and found "Uncle Sam" had 
 expended his $500,000 well in making a magnificent exhibit in three 
 splendid structures. Seven thousand square feet were devoted to the 
 Treasury Department. There was a model Lighthouse here, strange to 
 
432 A WEEK AT THE PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION 
 
 say, and the Mint was represented by a coin-press turning out, while we 
 watched it, eighty imitation coins per minute. 
 
 The Bureau of Printing had a plate-printing press, showing how 
 paper money is printed, also turning out souvenirs, which were rapidly 
 taken up. We also saw here the big knife used for cutting paper money 
 apart. It has cut nearly all the paper money made for twenty-five years. 
 The officers said it must have cut between five and six billions of dollars. 
 
 In the Navy Department we saw the wonderful map used by that 
 department, with 307 models of the warships of the United States 
 located on the map just where they were at that time on the seas. Every 
 ship had its name on a flag. There were also models of all kinds of war 
 crafts, torpedo boats, great naval guns, and all kinds of fighting engines, 
 and dozens of other features full of interest, and, best of all, the deci 
 of a battleship with all officers from admiral down, full life-size. * 
 
 The Post-Office Department had a collection of all the postage stamps 
 ever used by the government. This collection was valued at over $50,000, 
 and made some of our boys and girls almost ashamed of their small col- 
 lections. This department also had models of mail-carriers at work 
 in Port Eico, Hawaii, the Philippines, Cuba and the United States and 
 other countries. It was interesting to note the different uniforms and 
 methods in use in the different countries. 
 
 The Fishery exhibit was beautiful, and so interesting the Professor had 
 a task to get the young people to keep up with him while he explained. 
 There were hundreds of glass tanks built in the sides of the house with 
 the various kinds of fish in them and lit up by electric lights. Every fish 
 was swimming in plain view. There were all varieties of fresh and salt 
 water fish. The fresh water was kept running in from lake Erie, and 
 the salt water was brought all the way from Massachusetts in tank cars. 
 
 The War Department exhibit was particularly attractive, with its big 
 guns weighing 115,000 pounds, mounted upon a disappearing carriage 
 that weighed 350,000 pounds. One of these guns can drive a 1,000 pound 
 steel bullet twenty-five inches into solid steel armor at a distance of a 
 mile and a half. It takes 490 pounds of powder to fire it. All kinds of 
 smaller weapons were shown. They also showed the wonderful wireless 
 telegraph, sending messages and receiving them through the air without 
 wires. The Military Academy at West Point also had and exhibit in this 
 
A WEEK AT THE PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION. 433 
 
 department, which was the first time it was ever represented at an ex- 
 position. There were groups of life-size figures dressed in the uniforms 
 of the Revolution, the war of 1812, the Mexican War, the Civil War, and 
 the late Spanish and Philippine wars. George Washington's own sword, 
 Andrew Jackson's sword, Benjamin Franklin's staff and other most in- 
 teresting relics of our great men and our country's history were also 
 seen and admired by our party. And there was steel armor plate which 
 had been shot through by the big guns and other plate that resisted the 
 bullets. The half we saw cannot be told as we would like. 
 
 The Twentieth Century Food Exhibit was very interesting. The Agri- 
 cultural building ; the Horticultural building ; the Manufacturers' and 
 Liberal Arts building ; the Electricity building ; the Life-saving Station 
 and exhibit on the lake, where all the drills of the crew was gone through 
 every day ; the Ethnology building, with its wonderful story of the races 
 of men and their development in the new world. The Transportation 
 building with all kinds of vehicles for travel up to the mightiest modern 
 engines. The Machinery building, including every kind of machine, was 
 a marvellous place for the mechanical boy. The great Art building, filled 
 with American paintings, was a dream of loveliness and a feast to the 
 eyes of the girls. 
 
 The Fountain and Statuary. 
 
 The largest fountain ever constructed, located on the North Bay, 
 throwing its central stream 200 feet high and illuminated by means of 
 powerful electric lights every evening, was something the like of which 
 had never before been seen. The beautiful landscape effects, the 
 gorgeous coloring of the buildings outside and their brilliant and festive 
 interiors, the magnificent display of statuary — 500 pieces of sculpture, 
 all — all this our party of young people saw in five days, hurriedly, 
 to be sure, for it would have taken a month for it well. And now 
 on Saturday morning they were ready to visit the Wonderful Midway. 
 This the Professor saved for the last because, he said, it was the least 
 instructive. But the young people must not be blamed if they disagreed 
 with him. They thought the Mexican village, with its bull-fight and 
 theatre; the glass factory; the Esquimaux village, with their strange 
 people and houses ; the wonderful trained animals — 1,000 of them in one 
 show — and dozens of other things were very instructive. Anyhow, it took 
 
434 
 
 A WEEK AT THE PAN-AMERICAN EXPOSITION 
 
 them two days to see the Midway, and they voted it the most enjoyable 
 part of the whole Exposition. Besides, had not all the Governors, Sena- 
 ators and even President McKinley and Vice-President Roosevelt been 
 through it to prove that other people besides young folks liked it ? And 
 why not ? It contained forty-four of the best shows one wants to see, 
 many of them only wonder-exciting, to be sure, but others exhibiting the 
 manners and customs and the greatest wonders and curiosities and the 
 most interesting and instructive things of the whole New World ; and with 
 all this a German village, a Japanese village, a reproduction of the city 
 of Venice, an African village, a Philippine village, a Hawaiian village, 
 a South African Ostrich Farm, and the marvellous "Streets of Cario" 
 (as good as it was at the World's Fair) were thrown in for good 
 measure. And the Midway wound up at the Elmwood entrance with 
 a grand Indian Congress of 700 Indians from the wild northwestern 
 country, representing forty-two distinct tribes, all living in a large 
 inclosure in their tents and tepes. They were painted and dressed as 
 they were in their wild primitive state one hundred years ago, indulged 
 in sham battles, ghost and war dances, etc. Among them were the 
 famous " Geronimo " and many other chiefs who had been at war with 
 the United States. 
 

 


1Q/YI 
 
OCT 28 1901