"^BANCROFTS 
 
 TOURIST'S Guide 
 
 THE GEYSERS. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO AND AROUND THE BAY, 
 (NORTH.) 
 
 ' LuCENTio. Here is a wonder, if you talk of a wonder. 
 
 HoRTENSio. And so it is ; I wonder what it bodes. 
 Petruchio. Marry, peace it bodes, and love, and quiet life ; 
 An awful rule, and right supremacy ; 
 And to be short, what not that's sweet and happy. 
 
 — Tajning the Shrczv. 
 
 J'avais une demeure isolee, dans une solitude charmante; maitre chez moi, 
 J'y pouvais vivre a ma mode, sans que personne eut a m'y controler 
 
 — Rousseau. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO : 
 
 A. L. BANCROFT &- COMPANY, 
 
 1871, 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 187 1, 
 
 By A. L. BANCROFT & CO., 
 
 In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D, C. 
 
 
 Bancroft's Steam Printing, Lithographing, Engraving and Book-binding 
 Establishment, San Francisco, Cal. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 De Profundis — A theoretical dissertation on the source of 
 
 sulphurous and thermal springs 5 
 
 A Trip into the Country, ii 
 
 The Tour Northerly, 19 
 
 Napa Valley. 29 
 
 The Geysers, " . . 47 
 
 Clear Lake Region, 68 
 
 The Tour via Santa Rosa, 82 
 
 •Marin County, 84 
 
 Pet alum A Valley, - - - ' 91 
 
 3anta Rosa Valley, 92 
 
 !^ussian River Valley, 95 
 
 Sonoma Valley, 100' 
 
 San Francisco, - - -•- - - -- iii 
 
 Tourist's Guide Advertiser, 227 
 
DE PROFUNDIS, 
 
 Tacendo divenimmo la've apiccia 
 
 Fuor della selva un piccol fiumicello, 
 
 Lo cui rossore ancor mi raccapriccia. 
 Lo fondo suo ed ambo le pendici 
 
 Fatt'eran pietra, e i margin i da \:3,'iO.— Dante. 
 
 It is not a little remarkable, in this age of inquiry and spec- 
 ulation, that no attempt should have been made toward a 
 geographical partition of the inner circle of the earth. Ques- 
 tions equally profound have occupied the minds of the learned, 
 and propositions as difficult of solution have been taken up, 
 discussed, and laid aside as settled, in the vi^orld's store-house 
 of knowledge. The origin of the intellect, the origin of matter, 
 the invisible population of space, the compilation of an accurate 
 map of the abode of lost spirits, a minute description of the 
 celestial city, with detailed recitals of the condition and occupa- 
 tion of its citizens, are a few of the subjects of no small import 
 which have occupied the mighty intellects of our race. It is 
 true that much has been written by philosophers and divines, 
 much has been sung by poets and pictured by genius, in past 
 ages, concerning certain states or habitations of this subaqueous 
 sphere; but no attempt toward geographical position has been 
 made, no lines of latitude and longitude have been di-awn. To 
 present a perfect analysis of any portion of the external structure 
 of the earth, with proper solutions of cause and effect, with no 
 knowledge of its internal organization, is impossible. It is by 
 penetrating beneath the surface that science unfolds her richest 
 treasures. Except the seed be put into the ground, and the body 
 2 
 
6 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 buried in the earth, there is no development of material or 
 spiritual life. 
 
 It is not our purpose to enter this field of inquiry, but merely 
 to take a cursory glance at the subject; and should any clouds 
 of skepticism overshadow the mind in the midst of these investi- 
 gations, let it be remembered that all propositions capable of 
 demonstration a posteriori, are held to stand, unless success- 
 fully refuted. Belief is a creature of the will. It is no more 
 difficult for Omnipotence to adapt beings to life and motion 
 through earth than through air ; to perceive without light as 
 easily as with light ; and as intermundane spaces have been 
 peopled with immortals, would there not exist that vacuum 
 which nature abhors, should the interior abysses of the earth be 
 left an unorganized chaos ? 
 
 The fallacy of the proverb, " Quand on voit la chose on la 
 croit," is evident, when we consider where knowledge and pro- 
 gress would be, if seeing was essential to belief. We see around 
 us all nature teeming with life and animation, the whole uni- 
 verse in motion; life is everywhere, in everything, in things 
 visible and invisibJe, springing up even out of death ; but who 
 can tell what it is, and where it is not? 
 
 The crust of the earth varies in thickness, from a hundred 
 feet to a hundred miles. Geologists are partially correct in the 
 theory of fusion from heat. Climatic diversities exist to as great 
 an extent belov/ as above the surface of the earth. To forever 
 dispel the idea that one igneous liquid mass fills to the brim this 
 vast space, it is only necessaiy to compute the effect of seven 
 thousand miles of molten matter upon the egg-shell covering 
 which envelops it. 
 
 A more rational hypothesis constructs the interior a counter- 
 part of the exterior, cemented by cellulated connections, com- 
 posed of solids and liquids, produced by variations of heat and 
 cold and governed by the same laws of cohesion and gravitation. 
 That the intestine fo'xes of nature are at times stirred into 
 motion by thermic generation of elastic gases, we knov/, from 
 
DE PRO FUND IS. 
 
 occasional earthquake disturbances and volcanic eruptions of 
 igneous matter ; but this only shows the impossibility of the 
 entire occupation of subterranean space by a molten mass. But 
 history will better supply the place of theory. 
 
 The centre of the earth is reached by easy gi'adations, through 
 a concavity which, from the exterior, assumes the shape of an 
 inverted cone. The passage is divided into nine parts, or circles, 
 diminishing in circumference with the descent, and is partitioned 
 vertically, to suit the requirements of different ages and nations. 
 Virgil, who made the tour with both ^'Eneas and Dante, declares 
 the path quite accessible — 
 
 facilis decensus Averno est, 
 
 but easier of ingress than egress. 
 
 Sed recovare gradum superasque evadere ad auras 
 Hie opus, hie laboi est. 
 
 There are also various apertures by which to enter the con- 
 cavity. Korah found a mouth or opening in the wilderness of 
 Paran, but the Hebraic entrance was afterward permanently 
 placed at Tophet, in the valley of Hinnom near the city of 
 Jerusalem. Since the dispersion, the Jewish people avail them- 
 selves of the use of the aperture nearest at hand, being usually 
 that of the nation with whom they dwell. Commencing at the 
 centre of the earth, in the Jewish compartment, is situated, first, 
 Gehenna, the resting place of the Son of the Morning. Next, 
 ascending, is a large perpendicular plain, of various degrees of 
 temperature, and at the bottom of which is situated a burning- 
 sulphurous lake. This plain is sejjarated from the division above 
 by an impassable gulf. The whole is enclosed in bars, and fur- 
 nished with gates and keys. 
 
 The Fathers of the Church have separated their compartment 
 into four divisions. These divisions have been voluminously 
 described in their writings, the boundaries accurately laid down, 
 the dimensions given in leagues, and the extent, use, and occu- 
 pation of every portion, topographically determined. The lowest 
 division, or the one nearest the centre of the earth, is set apart 
 
8 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 as the permanent resting-place of those who are not friendly to 
 the Church, The temperature here is the same as that of the 
 division next above, but the difference consists in the duration of 
 occupation; the second division being tenanted temporarily as a 
 place of purgation. The two divisions above are denominated, 
 respectively, the limbus i7ifantum and the limbiis patriim. The 
 latter is now empty. 
 
 The Mohammedan entrance is from Mecca, over a bridge, 
 finer than a hair and sharper than a sword, called al Sirat. 
 The Mahommedan compartment is divided into seven stories : , 
 the first story, commencing with the uppermost, is called Jehen- 
 nam, and is assigned to refractory believers, subject to release; 
 the second, Ladha, accommodates the Jews ; the third, al Ho- 
 tama, the Christians ; the fourth, al Sair, the Sabians; the fifth, 
 Sakar, the Magians; the sixth, al Jahim, the idolaters ; and the 
 seventh, the lowest, called al Hawiyat, the hypocrites. The 
 climate varies from intense heat to excessive cold, according to 
 the constitutional requirements of the occupants. 
 
 Contiguous to Gehenna, westerly, lies Tartarus, the abode of 
 the ancient philosophers and poets. The entrance of the an- 
 cients to the concavity is situated on the coast of Italy, near Mount 
 Vesuvius, oji the border of lake Avernus^ The river Styx, which 
 encompasses the interior of the earth nine times, takes its rise at 
 this point. It is ci-ossed by the path in several places, and in 
 the fifth circle it widens into a lake. The subterranean habita- 
 tion of the ancients is presided over by Pluto, and is divided 
 into two separate states, Tartarus and Elysium. Upon the dis- 
 appearance of the Isles of the Blessed, from the western ocean, 
 the Elysii Campi were removed below. Erebus, a passage-way, 
 lies above Tartarus. The Elysian fields are lighted by a sun 
 and stars, watered by the river Lethe, which flows through a 
 verdant valley, and separated from Tartarus by a partition wall 
 of darkness. 
 
 Limbo, the first circle commencing uppermost, is a state of 
 indifference. As it is necessary here to cross the river, a ferry- 
 
DE PROFUNDIS. 
 
 man, Charon, keeps a boat for that purpose. Beware the dog 
 Cerberus on landing. To the limbus patrum and the limbus 
 infantian of the Fathers is added, by the ancients, the limbus 
 fatiwrum, which is always full. 
 
 The second circle is the judgment hall of Minos, who receives 
 confessions, and awards to each comer his place of residence. 
 The third circle is assigned to gluttons ; the fourth to the 
 avaricious and prodigal. Crossing the Stygian lake in the boat 
 of the ferryman, Phlegyas, the fifth circle, is entered. Here dwell 
 the wrathful and gloomy. In the sixth circle arch heretics are 
 confined in fiery tombs ; the seventh is occupied by the violent; 
 the eighth by the fraudulent; and the ninth circle, which is a 
 frozen lake, is the abode of traitors. 
 
 The vast spaces partitioned to India, China, the isles of the 
 ocean, and other heathen nations which have peopled the surface 
 of the earth from the beginning, would form an interesting study. 
 Thus might the investigation be continued, and the whole in- 
 terior of the earth opened to view . 
 
 The situation of the general entrance to the concavity from 
 this western shore was for a time enveloped in obscurity. Several 
 claims to the only true way were set up by various persons and 
 parties. In the early days of the settlement of our State, the 
 midnight money-changers claimed to hold the main entrance; 
 which claim was afterward disputed by the fair sex who first 
 graced our shores. The votaries of Bacchus next claimed that, 
 through the special revelation of their deity, they held posses- 
 sion of the key. When these necessary adjuncts to incipient 
 civilization were in a measure dispelled by the vigilance of our 
 forefathers, attention was attracted toward the City Hall. It 
 was claimed that in the ragers for office were vested the com- 
 bined rights of all the other parties. But the lurid cloud that 
 hovers near the true aperture, though hesitatingly flitting here 
 and elsewhere round the bay, finally rested over our sister city 
 Sacramento. It was discovered that the only true way was 
 
10 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 through our legislative halls ; that there principles, as well as 
 men, hold direct converse with the shades below. 
 
 The thinness of the earth's crust in our immediate vicinity is 
 ascertained from two existing phenomena: namely, the character 
 of the inhabitants upon the surface, and the occurrence of the 
 multitude and variety of sulphurous, thermal, and other tartarean 
 springs within our borders. That there exists intimate connections 
 between these springs and primal causes below, is inferred from 
 the fact that every mixture of every ingredient known to those 
 who have passed thither is here ejected. 
 
 The cause of the thinness of the crust at the fair spot to which 
 this little book guides, has been attributed to the fact that it is 
 situated directly over the grand laboratorium of the nations. 
 This work-room is a narrow valley, situated upon the border of 
 the Elysii Campi, at the terminus of the river Lethe, and is 
 surrounded by precipitous mountains, composed of all the exist- 
 ing mineral substances, and upon the sides of which grows every 
 species of medicinal plants. The river here empties into a huge 
 basaltic basin, spontaneously heated, and the entire flow of its 
 waters is absorbed in the compounding of healing mixtures. 
 The basin is divided into innumerable cells of various capacities, 
 each of which holds separate communication, through fissures, 
 with the surface above. Here the goddess Geysa, with myriads 
 of subordinates, holds her sway. For every mixture there is a 
 special attendant, who watches over a crucible, collects the 
 ingredients, and spreads them before the goddess; she alone can 
 mix them. 
 
A TRIP INTO THE COUNTRY 
 
 For me, kind Nature wakes her genial power. 
 
 Suckles each herb, and spreads out every flower ; • 
 
 Annual for me, the grape, the rose, renew. 
 
 The juice nectareous, and the balmy dew; 
 
 For me, the mine a thousand treasures brings ; 
 
 For me, health gushes from a thousand springs. — PoJ>e. 
 
 What is it ? Well, perhaps the cure of a cold, the roasting 
 out of a rheumatism, the pasting up of tattered lungs, one more 
 shuffle for life; perhaps an escape from odorous offices, ugly 
 rows of figures, stagnations and lawsuits ; an armistice, perhaps, 
 in home affairs, a pause of the treadmill, a shifting of position, a 
 momentary stillness in the storm ; a brief escape, it may be, 
 from arbitrary affection, from tinctured sweetness, from love's 
 abrasions ; perhaps it is a packing up of flitting heart-treasures, 
 the wooing back of a gentle life; the last stake, which, when 
 lost, leaves, in place of sweet fullness, a long, deep, noisome 
 cavern. 
 
 But what is it ? It is a towel after a bath, a thawing out of 
 the system, oceanic distillation, extraction of neuralgia, physi- 
 ologic solar lubrication; a coming out into broad sunlight and 
 soft air, amid the ringing songs of birds, the music of brooks, 
 and sweet flowers; out into the wild woods, over foaming streams, 
 and out upon smooth lakes. It is taking a glance upward, a 
 slipping of the fetters, a flash of the spirit into unwonted regions, 
 a square look into the past and into the future. It is a renewal 
 of the lease for another year, an extension of time on the part of 
 our common creditor. 
 
12 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 We came to California to accomplish a purpose. We are 
 somewhat pressed for time, especially if we have made a slip or 
 two ; but, if we are diligent, unwearied in our efforts, we may 
 yet be in at the death; we may get through in time to attend 
 our own funeral. Our life at best is limited, and should it fall 
 short, and should we die before our work is accomplished, there 
 is no knowing what would become of mankind. 
 
 The field is new before us, a virgin soil ; nothing ^is done, all 
 is to be done. We have cities to build, railroads to construct, 
 manufactures to establish, money to make. We put our children 
 •out to educate, snatch the absolute requirements of religion as 
 we pass along, read the newspapers, eat, sleep, and then — die. 
 This is the obituary of thousands. Mingle to one a few more 
 disappointments, to another a little more success, with now and 
 then a failure, drunkenness ; and the Jife of nine tenths of the 
 balance is complete. 
 
 Once a year at least, every man and every woman should for 
 a time loosen the strain upon this one set of nerves, get away 
 from everything, and let themselves down. If time be an object, 
 this is the way to make time; and with time, money. It fre- 
 quently requires less money to go than to stay. Wisdom, virtue, 
 and strength may all be found in profusion, a la belle etoile, two 
 hours ride from San Francisco, Money is a good thing for our 
 children to spend; but it is to be hoped that while spending it 
 they will allow their minds to dwell somewhat upon other things. 
 The root of all evil has become with us the source of all good. 
 We eat, drink and sleep money. We marry with money, and 
 we measure with money. By it we gauge our neighbor's piety, 
 our friend's sincerity, and our own manhood. It outlives reli- 
 gion, and outweighs affection. A base slave, it has become our 
 master, and is placed in dominion over the intellect of man, which 
 rules all else. Then come away from it a little while. Take 
 off the halter, turn the mind out to pasture, and let it roll. 
 
 It is good for the mother and her little ones to escape their cage 
 occasionally, to let free their fancy and mingle their songs with 
 
A TRIP INTO THE COUNTRY, 
 
 the songs of nature. It is good for the fossil-faced father to turn 
 for a moment his ropy meditations upon the most direct route 
 from other men's pockets to his own, and consider what life is. 
 Let him draw a check, and buy health. And it is good for our 
 conventional friends from the East to come out and see what 
 freedom is ; to see old Mayflower liberty young again. Even 
 nature here is free, ungoverned by set rules. If you will follow 
 the lead of this little book, we will show you, among other 
 things, a western apothecary's shop, Nature's grand medicine 
 chest, the world's hospital. With the accommodations for all the 
 world, we modestly offer the attractions of all the world. If 
 it is air you want, we have it softer than Italy's, and more brac- 
 ing than England's. W e have a brighter sky than France, more 
 and better medicinal springs than Germany; and if there are 
 any other blessings in the possession of any other country, we 
 have them. We can cure the world, if the world will come and 
 be cured. A thousand pools of Bethesda stand ready, all greatly 
 troubled. 
 
 Well understood, the charmed spot to which this book is the 
 indispensable key, presents a wealth of natural attractions unsur- 
 passed. When properly known, it will be one of the most 
 popular tours upon the western coast. Nowhere is so much 
 California to be seen for the money; nowhere so much mtilhtm in 
 so little parvo. It is true we have not the largest trees in the 
 world, but we have the stoniest; — hard-hearted trees, petrified 
 through fear of the strange substances, which, ascending from re- 
 gions below, seized hold of their roots, and drove life upward, and 
 outward through their branches. It is true we have not waters 
 falling from the greatest heights, but we have them springing up 
 from the greatest depth; from depths requiring not a clear eye, 
 but a free fancy, to fathom. And such waters! White waters and 
 black waters, and many-hued waters; warm waters and cold 
 waters; waters sparkling and waters sluggish; odorous waters, 
 suggestive of their source ; life-giving waters, and waters to 
 wing the spirit quick below. Kind mother Earth, from whence 
 
14 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 we came, and who ever waits, with open, loving arms to receive 
 us, here expresses relieving draughts to soothe the pain, and soften 
 the effects of our misdeeds. And other drinks she offers. Hun- 
 dreds of soda fountains play invitingly for our refreshment, and 
 to those whose constitutions will not . bear her waters, she 
 presents her wine. From its incipient state, through all the 
 various processes which add to its maddening virtues, to ripe old 
 age, it may be found; of every color, and kind, and quality. 
 Nature's hospital is aptly placed near to her vineyard. But the 
 vineyard is not indigenous. Lot planted a vineyard ; there is 
 'none spoken of in Eden. But if man will make wine, here is 
 his opportunity; care should be taken, however, to preserve it 
 pure, uncontaminated by the springs. 
 
 Other fruits of the earth, and game, and fishes, here abound 
 in profusion. The lake country is the nearest and most access- 
 ible hunting ground that we have, and protection has been so 
 thrown around it, by mountains which bar out the chilly fogs of 
 the ocean, and the burning air from the plains, that houses are 
 not necessary to the comfort of sportsmen. 
 
 And we claim no offsets, only unmitigated good. We have 
 the soft, hazy atmosphere of the tropics, without its enervating 
 and miasmatic vapors; the fresh, invigorating air of ocean with- 
 out its rheuinatics ; a dry season without drouth ; a wet season 
 without chills. A truce is here made by the contending ele- 
 ments. The forces of nature have laid down their arms; the 
 earth puts on her holiday attire ; the air comes gently over the 
 valleys, the joyous water rushes impetuously down the moun- 
 tain side, or gently murmurs through the valleys, the burden 
 and heat of the day are forgotten in the fresh coolness of even- 
 ing. 
 
 First, take a bath; we offer you a broad, clear, cool lake, or 
 a mountain stream that would tempt Diana; a Roman swim- 
 ming-bath, or a Turkish steam bath; a chemical bath, a vapor 
 bath, a shower bath; baths hot and cold, of every" temperature, of 
 medicinal waters concocted for all diseases, and all the free gift 
 
A TRIP INTO THE COUNTRY. 
 
 of bounteous goodness; all mixed by unseen hands, and warmed 
 by unseen fires. Make your choice; — the temperature that best 
 suits you, and name any mixture of any ingredients within the 
 dominions of Pluto, and it is ready waiting you. 
 
 Now, what is your malady and we will cure it. But, first of 
 all, simple existence in this enchanted realm drives the demon 
 of evil out of a man. The sun does not smile here upon disease. 
 Drag its loathsome form out into the broad light of day and it 
 will flee howling into the wilderness ; or should it require a gen- 
 tle reminder of home we will feed it with some of its own fami- 
 liar mixtures. By sticking your leg into that medicinal mud, 
 rheumatism will descend to realms below and the leg will come 
 out whole. By infusing that sulphur freely into your blood all 
 taint of heterodoxy will disappear from your system. Even a 
 mind diseased is here ministered to by the quiet influences that 
 surround it. Sulphur, iron, magnesia, and fifty other curatives 
 flow ready for application internally and externally. Take 
 all the ills of all the spheres and here is provided a reme- 
 dy for each one of them. A hundred varieties of medicinal 
 compound within a hundred yards. Thousands of springs 
 within a hundred miles, and thousands of new fountains of 
 health yet to be discovered within this space. Bathe in that 
 chemical compound, stand in the steam of that sulphurous* 
 spring, take a swim in medicine water. You may drink it, wash 
 your clothing with it, and cook in it. Nature here has outdone 
 herself. For ages she has been concocting her healing com- 
 pound ; she will now make amends for decay and death. 
 
 Where will be a fitter field in which to work out the great 
 problem of man modifying nature and nature modifying man? 
 Nature's work is here done ; it now remains for man to act upon 
 it, and be acted upon by it. The type of civilization that these 
 valleys will exhibit within a few centuries, according to these re- 
 ciprocal rules, will equal or surpass that of ancient Greece or 
 Rome, or any period of the world's history. Here are embodied 
 
1 6 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 all the essential elements of climate, food, and soil, requisite to 
 the highest development of the intellect. It has been clearly 
 demonstrated by the greatest ethnologists of our time that the 
 intellectual development of our race is not governed by inherent 
 natural differences but by outward surroundings. " Tell me 
 what company you keep, and I will tell you who you are," says 
 the proverb. Tell me the physical nature of your surroundings, 
 climate, soil, mountains, plains, rivers, oceans, says the ethnol- 
 ogist, and I will tell you the intellectual and physical state of 
 the people. Their process of demonstration is thus : The accu- 
 mulation of wealth, as that alone gives time for the improvement 
 of the intellect, is the first requisite to social advancement. 
 Wealth can be acquired only where the soil is fertile and the 
 climate genial. In the tropics vegetation is most exuberant ; 
 food costs literally nothing but the gathering, but steady appli- 
 cation to any industry, either physical or mental, is, during a 
 portion of each day, prevented by the heat ; irregular habits and 
 an enervated mind are the results. 
 
 The only partially civilized portions of America at the time of 
 the discovery were the table lands of Mexico and Peru, which 
 lie above the miasmatic atmosphere that surrounds them. 
 Here was found humanity unwittingly working out the same 
 pi-oblems of existence, by means of the same process, that other 
 nations in past ages had done. In the frigid zones the inhabit- 
 ants are compelled to labor incessantly in order to support life ; 
 and therefore have no time for mental improvement. 
 
 Now, in the valleys which we ai-e visiting, the most work can 
 be done with the least wear upon bodily organs, and at the same 
 time producing the largest returns. Soil and climate could not 
 be improved. The general aspect of nature is such as to pro- 
 duce a calm, contemplative effect upon the mind, such as is con- 
 ducive to the highest intellectual improvement. Drought, the 
 evil which sometimes afflicts other portions of our coast, on 
 account of the configuration of the country, and its proximity to 
 the ocean, seldom troubles these favored valleys. 
 
A TRIP INTO THE COUNTRY. 
 
 17 
 
 Sight-seeing in California, like all other young bigness that 
 surrounds us, is destined to increase. Everything with us is in 
 its infancy. Mr. Powers should have sculptured California as a 
 huge baby, in the place of a pensive female with not over grace- 
 ful limbs. Europe having become an old story with many of our 
 Eastern friends, they come to California. They are welcome. 
 We place before them our choicest productions ; their tables 
 groan with the oil and corn and wine of the land. We clothe 
 them in the purest air and brightest sunshine ever tui-ned out 
 of nature's laboratory, and while we do not refuse their money, 
 we agree, for every dollar they spend with us, to spend two with 
 them. Ere they reach home their money will be there ; every 
 man's money in his sack's mouth. Or, better still, should they 
 decide to remain with us, we will divide up our thirty thousand 
 acre farms, modify our earthquakes to suit their gentler nerves, 
 and invent a sprinkler for our dry seasons, if they but leave 
 behind their lightning, ice and coppers. 
 
 The modes of travel over this country are not unpleasant. 
 There is but little old fashioned staging left, and a mustang 
 horse and California saddle, — which, like Solomon's temple, is 
 strung together without a buckle, and with no metal save a few 
 brass nails — are much more comfortable than Alpine ponies or Ita- 
 lian donkeys. In fact, the mustang is a feature of the tour, an in- 
 stitution of the country, a pleasant episode which ean always be 
 engaged in one town and left in another. But do not expect too 
 much from the mustang. He is a horse siii generis, an Ishmael- 
 itish horse. Pat his neck and the leaden eye manifests not 
 the slightest change. He will be your slave but do not attempt 
 familiarity. He is a horse without soul or conscience. In his 
 eye there is no sympathy; only cold, sullen indifference. Like 
 some men, you can trust him while your hand is on him. The 
 mustang does not trot, but enters at once from a walk to a full 
 gallop. Dashing up to the verge of a mudhole he pauses on the 
 brink and passes quietly through. Prick him with a spurless 
 
1 8 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 heel, and with remarkable tenacity of memory, he knows 
 throughout a whole day's ride that there is no sting in it. 
 
 The places herein described are quite accessible. Two hours 
 sail over smooth waters, and our garden is entered, and in the 
 place of traveling two or three hundred miles for two or three 
 objects of interest, here are twenty lesser sights within half the 
 distance. Three days or three weeks will suffice for the trip, 
 It may be taken at any season of the year, though spring time is 
 preferable. 
 
 As it is tlie purpose of the publishers of this work to issue 
 new editions as occasion demands, additions and corrections from 
 all sources will be thankfully received. 
 
 San Francisco, May 5th, 187 1. 
 
THE TOUR NORTHERLY. 
 
 Two departures daily, at 8 o'clock a. m. and 4 
 o'clock p. M., by the steamer " Capital," from Front 
 Street Wharf, San Francisco. Time to Vallejo, 
 one hour and a half; fare, $1.00, baggage free, 
 double carriage and horses to Vallejo, $8.00 ; horse 
 and buggy, $4.00 ; single horse, $2.00. Breakfast 
 on board from eight to half past eleven, a la carte; 
 dinner from four to half past seven, $1.00. At 
 starting. Goat Island, a military station reserved by 
 Goveriiment for military purposes, is seen about 
 two miles distant on the right. Extensive barracks 
 are erected on the eastern side. In ten minutes 
 after leaving the w^harf, Alcatraz Island and the 
 Golden Gate are opposite on the left. Alcatraz, 
 covered wdth fortifications, with a lighthouse upon 
 the summit, occupies a very commanding position, 
 and is of great military importance, but it depends 
 upon the main land for its supply of water. Pass- 
 ing Angel Island, also a station for troops, and the 
 green, grassy hillocks of Point San Pablo, we enter 
 San Pablo Bay, a continuation of the bay of San 
 
20 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 Francisco. Following the track of the Sacramento 
 boats until we reach the Straits of Carquinez, we 
 turn abruptly to the left and enter the narrow sheet 
 of water between Yallejo and Mare Island. In a 
 few minutes, still upon our left, appears the Gov- 
 ernment powder magazine, and shortly after, the 
 Mare Island Navy Yard. On our right the first 
 prominent objects are the Star flouring-mills and 
 the grain elevator, both situated in South Vallejo, 
 the southern terminus of the California Pacific 
 railroad. The navy yard is one of 'ih^ most ex- 
 tensive owned by the Government, and the only 
 one upon the Pacific Coast. Many millions have 
 already been expended here, and many more will 
 be, to fit it for the growing demands of our nav}- 
 on the Pacific . Its extensive ranges of massive build- 
 ings, the sectional dry dock, and the armed vessels 
 generally anchored near the shore, are objects 
 which at once command the attention of the tour- 
 ist. The flouring-mill, which we first saw on the 
 right, is one of the first class, with a capacity of 
 producing four hundred barrels of flour per day. 
 This elevator is the first, and only, one erected 
 upon this coast. In 1869, seven hundred piles, 
 each forty feet long, were driven firmly down into 
 the hard bottom, fastened together with heavy tim- 
 bers, and filled in with rock from eight to thii'ty 
 feet deep. Upon this foundation the grain ele- 
 vator was erected, under the supervision of a gen- 
 
SOUTH VALLEJO. 
 
 tleman from Chicago . Steam power here handles 
 wheat at the rate of 35,000 bushels per day. Three 
 scales weigh it at the rate of fifteen tons each at a 
 draft. Grain can be weighed and run into a ship's 
 hold at the rate of 250 tons per hour. The depth 
 of water alongside is thirty feet. Thirty-eight 
 ships w^ere here laden during the past year, with 
 wheat destined for foreign markets. The storage 
 capacity of the elevator is 350,000 bushels, or 10,- 
 000 tons of wheat. 
 
 South VaUejo. 
 
 South Yallejo is an " addition." Eveiy old Cali- 
 fornian town, as it assumes importance, has its 
 "addition," which soon becomes the place itself . 
 Some have several. San Diego, for instance, is all 
 " addition." The old Mexicans did not understand 
 the scijence of town placing. Drinking waters Vv^ere 
 of more consequence to them than navigable wa- 
 ters ; their minds ran more to corrals than to com- 
 merce. What could Father Junipero Serra have 
 been thinking of when, after coming all the way 
 from Spain, he put himself down upon a bleak, 
 sandy peninsula, in the place of occupying a spot 
 which, in the making of the world, had been pro- 
 vided for the accommodation of a large commercial 
 cit}" ? One hundred years later, and the eyes of 
 Gen. Frisbie and Mr. Fowler, perceived beauties in 
 the aspect of South Yallejo, invisible to the venera- 
 
22 BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE. 
 
 ble Fatlier. "While visions of converting tlie In- 
 dians, peopling heaven and raising cattle and horses 
 filled the mind of the one, the others jDcrceived in 
 it the very spot infended by Nature for the site of 
 a great commercial city, with an ocean fleet and a 
 vast system of railways contributing to its prosper- 
 ity and greatness. 
 
 A large amount of heavy grading has been done 
 here, and many good buildings erected, among 
 which are three hotels. The Frisbie House is ex- 
 tensive, and fitted up in a style of much elegance. 
 The present landlord is J. M. Staples, formerly of 
 the Auzerais House, San Jose. 
 
 The time is not distant when South Vallejo must 
 assume the proportions of an important seaport. 
 The place originated out of the requirements of 
 the California Pacific Railroad Company, and has 
 been built up to its present proportions within the 
 past three j^ears. The officers of the company have 
 from its organization manifested marked ability, 
 shrewdness and foresight, not only in the original 
 conception of the route and location of the cit}^, but 
 in the subsequent prosecution of the enterj)rise to 
 a most successful termination ; in the concentration 
 of the entire railroad interests north of the Bay ; 
 and in the absorption of the most imi:)ortant steam- 
 boat routes on our waters. 
 
 The California Pacific Eailroad was originally 
 known as the Marys ville and Benicia Railroad. 
 
SOUTH VALLEJO. 23 
 
 The first work actually done ui3on it was in 1856. 
 Dr. D. W. C. Eice (since deceased) was its first 
 President, and to the day of his death a most zeal- 
 ous worker in its interests. In the summer of 1867, 
 W. F. Roelofson, Dr. J. M. Ryder, and Col. J. P. 
 Jackson went to Europe to negotiate the bonds of 
 the road, amounting to $2,250,000, and from the 
 proceeds of these bonds the Sacramento and Marys- 
 ville branches were built. The first train of cars 
 ran over the entire length of the road in November, 
 1869. In 1869, this company purchased the Napa 
 Valley Railroad and consolidated it into the origi- 
 nal incorporation. In April, 1871, it also T)urchased 
 the entire property, boats, lands, wharves, etc., of 
 the California Steam Navigation Company, paying 
 therefor about $1,000,000, and causing that com- 
 pany to disincorporate. In April, 1871, the San 
 Francisco and North Pacific Railroad was pur- 
 chased at the price, as stated, of $750,000. By 
 these several purchases this company has become 
 possessed of the carrying trade of the Sacramento, 
 Napa, Sonoma, Santa Rosa and Russian River val- 
 leys, as well as upon the chief rivers and bays of 
 the State. The branches of road measure as fol- 
 lows; Vallejo to Sacramento, 60 miles; Vallejo to 
 Marysville, 91 miles; Yallejo to Calistoga, 45 miles; 
 Donahue to Healdsburg, 38 miles; and the connect- 
 ing link from Petaluma to Suscol, 22 miles. This 
 connection is now being survej^ed, and will be fin- 
 ished in time for the wheat season of this year. 
 
24 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 The steamer Capital, the finest vessel upon this 
 coast, connects the business of this road with San 
 Francisco, making the distance, 23 miles, in one 
 hour and a half. From the earliest existence of 
 the road. General -J. B. Frisbie and A. D. StaiT, 
 Esq. , of Yalkjo, have been associated in its interests, 
 and done much in forwarding the enterprise. The 
 locomotives used are from the well known works of 
 William Mason, Taunton, Mass., and sustain the 
 high reputation of that manufacturer. The passen- 
 ger coaches in use are claimed to be the finest on 
 the coast, and fitted as they are with the Millers' 
 patent platform, they reduce very materially the 
 chances of injury by collision. 
 
 The present officers of the road are : President, 
 Col. J. P. Jackson; Vice-President, F. D. Atherton; 
 Secretary, Geo. W. Kobeiis; Treasurer, Milton S. 
 Latham; Auditor, G. W. Roberts; General Super- 
 intendent, R. S. Mattison; Superintendent of Steam- 
 boats, Capt. W. H. Moor; General Freight and 
 Passenger Agent, L. C. Fowler; Master Machinist, 
 Oscar Ford; Master Carpenter, R. L. Rutherford. 
 
 It is generally understood that the controlling 
 interest in the stock of this company is owned in Eu- 
 rope. A very liberal jDolicy has been manifested in 
 the conduct of its affairs. Local traffic has been 
 largely increased by a system of commutation tick- 
 ets, by which the usual fare is greatly reduced. 
 
 Two trains await the arrival of the boat at South 
 Vallejo ; one for Napa Valley and Calistoga, the 
 
VALLEJO CROSSING. 25 
 
 other for Sacramento and Marj^sville. Passen_ 
 gers for Vallejo may take eitlier train, but if going- 
 bey ond Vallejo, care must be taken to get on board 
 the right one." 
 
 Vallejo Crossing. 
 
 Passengers by either train are conveyed by car- 
 riages from this ]3oint to the city of Vallejo for 25 
 cents, to Vallejo White Sulphur Springs, easterly 
 three miles, for 50 cents, orto Benicia, seven and a 
 half miles southeriy, for $1.00. 
 
 Vallejo is one of the most thriving places in the 
 State, and its population is rapidly increasing. 
 Principal hotel, Capitol, situated on the bay op^^o- 
 site Mare Island ferry; terms, $2.00 a day, special 
 rates by the week ; William Likins proj)rietor and 
 owner. The livery stable of John Brownlie is close 
 at hand on Virginia street, where horses and car- 
 riages can be procured for White Sulphur Springs, 
 or elsewhere, on reasonable terms. 
 
 General Mariano de Guadalujoe Vallejo had the 
 honor of giving his name to this city. He was sent 
 in 1835 by Figueroa, the military commandant at 
 Monterey,* with a body of troops to chastise the 
 Indians about the head of San Francisco Bay, and 
 after defeating them in a hard-fought battle, con- 
 cluded a treaty of peace with them. For this ser- 
 vice and many others of great importance rendered 
 to the Mexican Government, he received large 
 
26 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 grants of land, uj^on a portion of which Yallejo now 
 stands. It was in 1850 the caj^ital of the State, 
 but shortly after the seat of government was 
 changed to Benicia, and subsequently to Sacra- 
 mento. The climate of Vallejo is delightful ; av- 
 erage temperature 66^ in summer, and 49^ in win- 
 ter. Cold winds and fogs are rare. The water 
 front is unsurpassed, the largest ocean-going ves- 
 sels being able to approach the wharf. Much of 
 the prosperity of Vallejo is due to the ability and 
 enterprise of Gen. John B. Frisbie. Vallejo is a 
 lively, thriving place, surrounded by many objects 
 of interest to the tourist. 
 
 Mare Island. 
 
 U. S. Navy Yard. — Ferry every hour; fare over 
 and return, 25 cents. Immediately on landing, 
 strangers are taken in charge by the guard, no one 
 being permitted to roam ah libitum without a i^ass. 
 The origin of the name Ma de la Yegua, is claimed 
 by some to have arisen from a shipwrecked mare of 
 Gen. Vallejo's having reached the island in safety ; 
 by others, as having been used as a breeding' ground. 
 The island is about ten miles in circumference, 
 with a rich soil and uneven surface. Anchorage 
 in the stream is good, and vessels of the largest 
 size can approach the shore. Admiral Farragut 
 took possession for the Government in 1854. Com- 
 modore Goldsborough is at present commandant. 
 
VALLEJO WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 27 
 
 and Capt. Werden, executive officer. The officers' 
 quarters consist of a row of good, three-story, 
 double brick dwellings, well furnished and lighted 
 with gas. The other buildings are the foundry, 
 smithy, ordnance department, magazine, store- 
 houses, &c. The new Naval Hospital was erected 
 at a cost of about $250,000, and the Drj^ Dock and 
 Basin at a cost of $1,000,000. The dry dock con- 
 sists of ten floating sections, and will accommodate 
 the largest ships in the w^orld. From five hundred 
 to two thousand five hundred workmen are con- 
 stantly emplo^^ed. The island must be entirely 
 cleared of them at night, so that four times a day 
 the bay swarms with little boats, presenting quite 
 a lively appearance. 
 
 Vallejo White Sulphur Springs. 
 
 Three and a half miles from the city. Stages con- 
 nect with all the trains and boats at Vallejo ; fare 
 50 cents. Time from San Francisco, 2J hours. 
 These sj) rings, on account of their nearness to San 
 Francisco, will in time, undoubtedly, become very 
 popular. Improvements are being rapidly pressed 
 forward, trees planted, artificial lakes, fed by the 
 springs, buildings, &c. There are two springs and 
 ample facilities for bathing, with hot and cold sul- 
 phur water. The Hotel contains twenty rooms. 
 The bar, ball room, ten-pin alley, and gentlemen's 
 recreation quarters, are in a building separate and 
 
28 BANCROFTS TOURISTS GUIDE. 
 
 apart from the hotel. An unlimited number of 
 cottages will be erected as occasioned by the de- 
 mand. Horses may be obtained on the premises. 
 Board, $15 a week in the hotel, and $18 a week in 
 the cottages. From five to ten persons may occupy 
 a cottage. Children and servants half price. 
 Hawkins & Netterberg, proprietors. Cinnabar, 
 containing sixty per cent, quicksilver, is found on 
 the surface of the hills southeast of the springs, 
 and a seam has been traced some distance under- 
 ground. 
 
 Benicia, 
 
 A beautiful drive of seven and a half miles overground 
 which should have held the metropolis of the Pacific. 
 With the Strait of Carquinez as the centre, in points 
 of climate, soil, water frontage, and natural advan- 
 tages for the site of a large city, this spot is une- 
 qualed anywhere. The rolling highlands on the 
 opposite side only lack the j^icturesque villas to 
 make them fully a match for the Hudson or the 
 Rhine. The Bay of Suisun, Monte Diablo, and 
 the garden spot between, completes this most mag- 
 nificent scene. Benicia contains several large 
 schools: the college of St. Augustine, (Episcopalian) 
 St. Catharine's Seminar}^, (Catholic) Monastery of 
 St. Dominic, and the Arsenal and Barracks. An 
 old brick school house of painful doric simplicity, 
 marks the s^^ot of our incipient legislation. Taking 
 
NAPA VALLEY. 29 
 
 the Napa Valley train upon the arrival of the 
 steamer at Yallejo at 10 a. m. or 5 30 p. m. we pro- 
 ceed on our journey. Shortly after leaving Vallejo 
 Crossing, the traveler will observe the Good Tem- 
 plars' Orphan Asylum, a large building ujDon the 
 hills at his right. The valle}^ continues narrow 
 until we reach the next station, 
 
 Napa Junction. • 
 
 Here a* town site has been laid off under the name 
 of Adelante, but the town is yet in the future. 
 The Napa branch joins the Sacramento branch of the 
 railroad at this point, and the train for Calistoga and 
 intermediate places in Napa Valley is switched off 
 to the left; the Sacramento train taking a direction 
 towards the northeast, while the Napa train pro- 
 ceeds northwardly. 
 
 Napa Valley. 
 
 The magnificent valley of Napa he-re begins to 
 open out in fair proportions. For about fort}'" 
 miles on each side of the valley is a high range of 
 mountains and hills, sometimes covered with grass 
 or wild oats, but more frequently with dark ever- 
 green trees or chajiparal, to the very summit, and 
 all presenting against the sky that sharp, clear-cut, 
 cameo-like beauty of outline x^eculiar in the land- 
 scapes of the Pacific coast. The valley itself ex- 
 hibits every variety of rural wealth : waving grain 
 * 3 
 
30 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 fields, meadow lands, vast orcliards and vineyards, 
 miles upon miles of fertile fields dotted with gi- 
 gantic oaks, pleasant villages and cosy country 
 homes, each enshrined in its own pet wilderness 
 of shrubbery and flowers. No eye can look upon 
 a scene of such transcendent loveliness with indif- 
 ference. No valley in the Stp.te surpasses Napa 
 in fertility or productiveness. There has never 
 been a failure of crops here since the American oc- 
 cupation of the country. In proportion to the area 
 in cultivation, no part of the State excels it in 
 the production of grains, fruits and grapes. Vine- 
 yards are becoming very numerous, and the mak- 
 ing of wine and brandy already constitute an im- 
 portant branch of industry. 
 
 Suscol, 
 
 Formerly called Thompson's station, takes its name 
 from the Suscol ranch, upon which are the extensive 
 and widely-knov\'n orchards of Messrs. Thompson.' 
 When Mr. Sim}3Son Thompson first commenced 
 these orchards in 1852, the Mexicans laughed at 
 him, sajdng that "trees would not gTOw without 
 irrigation, and that without it even wheat would not 
 grow more than six inches high." Indeed, such 
 was the general oj^inion, even among Americans at 
 that period ; but it was soon proved that a thorough 
 'pulverization of the soil rendered all irrigation need- 
 less. This Mr. Thompson demonstrated by show- 
 
NAPA CITY. 
 
 iiig to the Mexicans ripe peaches, only two years 
 old from the pit. The first sales were made at $2.50 
 per pound. At this point was a bloody and decisive 
 battle in 1835, between General Yallejo with a force 
 of six hundred Mexican troops, and a vast number 
 of Indians, in which the latter lost two hundred 
 killed, and a greater number w^ere wounded. 
 
 Napa City. 
 
 This is an active and thriving town at the head of 
 navigation on Napa river, thirt}- -nine miles from San 
 Erancisco. There are six feet of water here at high 
 tide. A steamer and many sail vessels ply on the 
 river, chiefly engaged in carrying freight. The 
 town contains between 3,500 and 4,000 inhabitants, 
 and is the county-seat of Napa county. It has sev- 
 eral hotels, an extensive flouring-mill, a ladies' 
 seminary, collegiate institute, six churches, a bank, 
 two vv^eekly nevv^spapers, gas works, engine house, 
 one fire and one hook and ladder company, a Ma- 
 sonic, Odd Fellows,' and Good Temj^lars' lodge. 
 No point in the State offers better advantages for 
 education. The chief exports are wheat, wool, 
 wine, brandy, fruits of all kinds, and quicksilver, 
 such being the principal productions of the sur- 
 rounding country. The Napa seminary for young- 
 ladies, established many years ago by Miss Maria 
 S. McDonald, and still continued by her sister. 
 Miss Sarah F. McDonald, is an institution of merit. 
 
32 BAAXROFT'S . TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 The Napa Collegiate Institute, under charge of 
 President George, was established and is con- 
 ducted under the auspices of the California Confer- 
 ence of the Methodist Ej)iscopal Church, and fur- 
 nishes every facility for a thorough education. The 
 grounds are five acres in extent, filled with fine 
 ornamental shmbbery, and the school edifice is one 
 of the largest and most perfect in all its appoint- 
 ments to be found in the State. The site selected 
 for the Odd Fellows' College and Home, is a mile 
 west of the town, and is commanding and eli- 
 gible. The town is well built for a place of only 
 twenty years' growth, and its situation is unsur- 
 passed. Few towns in the State at this time are 
 in a more prosperous condition. A greater num- 
 ber of buildings- have been erected within the past 
 twelve months than within five yeare previous, 
 among which ma}^ be named the elegant iron-froiit 
 bank building of Messrs. J. & J. H. Goodman, and 
 a large edifice to be used as a town hall or for 
 public meetings. A stage makes two trips per day 
 to and from Sonoma, connecting with the trains at 
 Napa City; fare, $1.00. There is also a road from 
 Napa City to Monticello,. in Berreyessa Valley, 
 twenty-four miles, upon which there is a tri-weekly 
 stage, which passes on to Knoxville, Lake County. 
 
 Pope Valley Quicksilver Mines. 
 About thirty-five miles northeast from Na^^a City, 
 in Pope Valley, are several quicksilver claims of 
 
QUICKSILVER MINES. 33 
 
 promise, one of wliicli is now being successfully 
 worked by the Phoenix IVIiningf Company. The 
 mine has been worked from time to time by dif- 
 ferent parties for several years, but has never been a 
 paying property until within a few months. Under 
 the administration of George Fellows, Esq., Super- 
 intendent, it has paid several dividends, and un- 
 doubtedly, from present indications, will prove 
 permanently productive. The product of the mines 
 since June, 1870, has been 1,175 flasks, worth 
 $76,116.39, mth only twenty-five men emplo^^ed. 
 Fifty men are now employed. Six retorts are now 
 used, which will fuse 250 to 300 flasks per month. 
 Pope Yalley is about ten miles long and from one 
 to two miles broad, dotted over wdth beautiful oaks, 
 pines and madronas. It contains some fine farms, 
 and is one of the most beautiful of the inland val- 
 leys of the county. 
 
 Since the completion of the railroad, Napa City 
 has become a place of great resort during the trav- 
 eling season, and is often thronged with visitors. 
 The Kevere House is the princi]3al hotel, and has 
 been refitted and furnished throughout in elegant 
 style, for the accommodation of travelers and per- 
 manent guests. The proprietor, Mr. J. W. Sharp, 
 will spare no pains to please all who may visit him. 
 Terms, $2.00 per day ;, $10.00 to $14!'00 per week. 
 A pleasant place for families is the boarding-house 
 of Mr. S. E. Smith, corner of Third and Kandolph 
 
34 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 streets. It is deiiglitfully situated, surrounded by 
 evergreen shrubbery, newly furnished, and kept in 
 elegant style. Terms, $10.00 per v,'eek; children 
 and servants, half price. ^ 
 
 There are many delightful drives in the environs of 
 Napa. For a short excursion, a trip to Brown's Yal- 
 ley, to the soda spring's, or to the magnificent orchard 
 and vineyard of Messrs. Thompson, of Suscol, or the 
 noble Magnolia Farm of Wm. H. Nash, Esq., up 
 the valley, would prove delightful. For a more 
 extended trip, which would afford the tourist a fine 
 view of a beautiful portion of our California valleys 
 and mountain scenery, such a route as the follow- 
 ing would be delightful : Drive the first day from 
 Napa City to Santa Eosa, visiting the famous wine- 
 cellaj's of Sonoma on ihe way ; the second day to 
 Healdsburg and the Geysers ; the third to Calis- 
 toga ; on the fourth to White Sulphur Springs to 
 dinner, with ample time to take the afternoon train 
 for San Francisco. Or, to the Geysers, remaining 
 over night, and back to Napa, stopping at the 
 White Sulx:>hur Springs for dinner. The extensive 
 livery stables of G. B. Clifford, at Napa City, can 
 furnish carriages and horses, with careful drivers 
 if desired, and provide an outfit just such as the 
 tourist may require. One of the points of attraction 
 for tourists near Napa, is found in 
 
THE NAPA SODA SPRINGS. 35 
 
 The Napa Soda Springs, 
 
 Analysis of the Napa Soda Water, by Dr. Landz- 
 weert, Chemist, of San ;Francisco, May, 1856 ; 
 temperature, Fahr., 68'^ : 
 
 Kesidium from EvaiDoration iu qr. gal grs 17.19 
 
 Bicarb, of Soda , 3.28 
 
 Carb. of Magnesia 6.53 
 
 " Lime ^.- • • • 2.72 
 
 Cliloride of Sodium 1.30 
 
 Super. Carb. of Iron ." 1.96 
 
 Sulphate of^Soda 0.46 
 
 Siliceous Acid 0-17 
 
 Alumina 0-15 
 
 Loss 0.62 17.19 
 
 These springs are situated in the ' foot-hills five 
 miles northeast of Napa City, some two hundred 
 feet above the general level of the valley. The 
 landscape from the springs is very extensive and 
 magnificent. A fine hotel was erected here in 1856, 
 but w^as burned to the ground only a few weeks 
 after being opened. The i^roperty has repeatedly 
 changed hands, and is now occupied by Messrs. 
 Fenn & Burdell. The soda^prings are not much 
 frequented by travelers, from the want of accom- 
 modations, but will surely become so whenever a 
 good hotel shall have been erected. The water of 
 these springs is in general use througlfout the State. 
 It is bottled on the s^Dot in its natural condition, by 
 means of very ingenious machinery. One hundred 
 
36 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 and forty-four dozen bottles are daily sent to mar- 
 ket. The water is ratlier pleasant to tlie taste, and 
 is considered of mucli value for its njedicinal prop- 
 erties. 
 
 Oak Knoll. 
 
 The magnificent estate of R. B. Woodward, Esq., 
 at this place (formerly owned by the lamented 
 Capt. J. W. Osborn) giv.es its name to this station. 
 Here is one of the most extensive orchards in the 
 State, which, like the whole of this valuable estate, 
 shows everywhere evidences of careful cultivation. 
 It wdll be remembered by many that Mr. Osborn 
 was assassinated here a few years since, before the 
 eyes of his wife and family, by a desperado nanjed 
 Brittan, who was afterwards executed. 
 
 Yountville, 
 
 This is a small village nine miles from Napa, 
 lying half a mile east of the station. It will prob- 
 abl}' be superseded by a new town nearer the rail- 
 road, the site of whi^h has already been laid off. 
 Mr. G. Grozinger of San Francisco, has made a 
 handsome beginning, by erecting here a wine house 
 of brick, two stories high, one hundred and fifty 
 by fifty feet and of the most substantial character ; 
 and a fine ofi^ce, also of brick. He has twenty acres 
 of grax:)es in bearing and sixty acres newly planted, 
 and consumed last year five hundred tons of grapes 
 
ST. HELENA. 3; 
 
 in tlie manufacture of vvine. Here are forty im- 
 mense casks of tlie capacity of sixteen hundred gal- 
 lons each, besides hundreds of tuns, puncheons and 
 casks of the usual dimensions. The amount of wine 
 kept in store is one hundred thousand gallons. 
 Two hundred acres of vines have been planted the 
 present season about Yountville. Distance from 
 Napa City nine miles. Fare 50 cents. 
 
 Oakville. 
 
 A way-station, about live miles from Yount- 
 ville, in the widest and most beautiful part of 
 Napa Yalley. It is a trading centre for a large and 
 prosperous farming community. About three 
 miles above the station, in the hills on the left, and 
 less than a mile from the railroad, are very promis- 
 ing mines of cinnabar, which, from their favorable 
 location, must prove of immense value, if the ore is 
 found in sufficient quantity. That taken out thus 
 far is of a high grade. One company, the "Oak- 
 ville," has recently put up retorts and is at work 
 with every prospect of success. 
 
 St. Helena. 
 
 A prosperous village, built uj)on a site of re- 
 markable beauty. Population, about six hun- 
 dred. Soil, gravelly. Several beautiful dwel- 
 lings have lately been erected. St. Helena is the 
 centre of a large population of thrifty farmers- and 
 
38 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE^ 
 
 vintagers, and will, doubtless, eventually,' be tlie 
 centre of the grape and wine trade for this region. 
 There are thirty-three vineyards immediately around 
 St. Helena, from nine to one hundred acres in ex- 
 tent, mostly in bearing, besides many which are 
 smaller or newly planted. The business is in a 
 prosperous condition. Six persons are engaged in 
 wine making and two in distilling brandy, affording 
 an excellent home market for grapes. A county 
 road leads from St. Helena to Chile's Valley, via 
 Conn Yalley, and thence into Pope Valley; also, 
 via Howell Mountain into Pope Valley. The lat- 
 ter road is now being completed. The grade is 
 said, in the steepest j)oi'tions, not to exceed seven 
 feet in one hundred. This road also connects with 
 a new road from Pope Valley to Knoxvilie, by 
 which St. Helena vrill be twenty-five miles nearer 
 than Napa City. Distance from Napa City, sixteen 
 miles. Fare $1.00. 
 
 "\^^Iiite Sulphur Springs. 
 
 These springs, which are widely known for their 
 medicinal and curative properties, are situated in a 
 deep and romantic gorge of the mountains, two 
 miles nearly west of the villagje of St. Helena, with 
 which there is constant communication by a stage 
 line. A fine stream flows through the gorge, form- 
 ing a pleasing adjunct to the scenerj^ The moun- 
 tains on each side of the sj)rings are very steep and 
 
CALISTOGA. 39 
 
 sonifi one tlioiisand feet in lieiglit. Nature, so long 
 blnstiing here unseen, is now utilized. Music and 
 the sound of cheerful voices, the romping of groups 
 *of happy children, and all the sounds that rise 
 where merry crowds are gathered, now break the 
 primeval silence of nature, which but a few years 
 ago here reigned supreme. This is truly one of the 
 most charming retreats in the world. No more at- 
 tentive hosts can be found than the present proprie- 
 tors, Messrs. Alstrom & Schonewald. The White 
 Sulphur Springs are a place of great resort during 
 the sr)ring and summer seasons; visitors maybe met 
 here from all parts of the world. There is a well- 
 kept hotel, with separo^te cottages for guests, bath- 
 houses, and all the necessary conveniences for a 
 comfortable sojourn. A magnificent hotel erected 
 here in 1855, by Messrs. Tafft & Brewster, burned 
 with all its contents in the following year. Sev- 
 eral cottages have been recently built and many 
 improvements made the present year. The road 
 from St. Helena winds through vinej^ards and 
 wooded hills, and is one of the best in the State. 
 There are various charmiijg drives in the neighbor- 
 hood. Conveyance from the railway station at St. 
 Helena, 50 cents. 
 
 Calistoga. 
 
 The Hot Springs {aguas calientes) of Calistoga were 
 well known to the Indians and Mexican settlers, 
 who availed themselves of their curative properties 
 
40 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 long before the occupation of the yalley by Ameri- 
 cans. They are situated in a level valley near the 
 foot of Mount St. Helena, in the northern part of 
 the county, surrounded on all sides by mountains. 
 The situation of these celebrated springs is one of 
 much beauty, and the surroundings are j)icturesque 
 in a high degree. No attempt was made to bring 
 this locality into notice until within the i)ast few 
 years. The property came into the hands of Sam- 
 uel Brannan, Esq., in 1857. He determined to 
 make it a place of fashionable resort, and has al- 
 ready expended A^ast sums of money for the purj^ose. 
 The improvements are on a grand scale, including 
 a hotel, some twenty-five elegant cottages, bath 
 rooms, a race-track, an immense number of trees, 
 shrubbery, and flowering plants. Among the recent 
 improvements are a dancing hall and skating rink, 
 sixty by ninet}' feet, for the use of visitors. Upon 
 the summit of Mount Lincoln, a beautiful hill near 
 the hotel, is a reservoir which holds ninety-thou- 
 sand gallons. The water to supply this is j)umped 
 up by steam from Napa Creek, and conveyed thith- 
 er by pipes. From the same source, a pond for 
 goldfish and a fountain are supplied. "Upon Mount 
 Lincoln is also an observatory from which is a mag- 
 nificent view of the valley and the mountains in the 
 neighborhood. 
 
 Directly in front of the hotel, a well was bored 
 several years ago, to the dej)th of seventy feet, 
 
CALISTOGA. 41 
 
 when rock was struck preventing further progress. 
 The uniform temperature of the water is 185° 
 There are many hot springs of different tempera- 
 tures, and varying in their chemical charttcter, and 
 combining sulphur, iron and magnesia in different 
 proportions. 
 
 Baths%re nowhere found in such luxuriant vari- 
 ety as at Calistoga. The visitor will be introduced 
 to some which are peculiar to the place, and which, 
 perhaps, he may never have heard of before. 
 
 The Eussian steam bath is formed by placing a 
 bathing room over a spring of the temperature of 
 195° Fahr. The issue of steam can be regulated 
 by slides, and the bather is supplied with air by an 
 ajDerture provided for the purpose. The curative 
 properties of these baths in certain chronic com- 
 plaints is remarkable. 
 
 The hot sulj)hur water is claimed to serve, with a 
 proper seasoning of pepper and salt, as an excellent 
 substitute for "chicken broth," and to be quite 
 palatable. The incredulous can easily test the mat- 
 ter, and ascertain whether the water is not ' ' victuals 
 and drink" all in one. 
 
 There is evidently some mysterious agency at 
 work underground^ at Calistoga, not quite compre- 
 hensible to visitors. Chemists and savans^ indeed, 
 explain the matter in the most learned and scien- 
 tific manner, by speaking of chemical reaction 
 among mineral substances and the like, and make 
 
42 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 out a veiy plausible theory. But the explanation, 
 to many people, needs as much explaining as the 
 mystery itself ; and when a man finds the ground 
 under hiS feet to be hot, and the waters issuing 
 from it to be in the neighborhood of the boiling 
 point, he cannot well help -harboring a suspicion 
 that the diabolus ipse is at work within perilous 
 proximit}'-, especially since the imagination is some- 
 what helped to the sinister conclusion by a prevail- 
 ing and most Stygian odor. 
 
 A well was bored at this place, preparator}'- to the 
 erection of the bath house, to the depth of sixty- 
 five feet, when the boring instruments were blown 
 out with tremendous, force, high into the air, as if 
 some unseen power beneath was resenting the in- 
 trusion of mortals upon his domain. The work- 
 men ran for their lives, and could not be induced 
 to resume operations on any terms. 
 
 Here is another evidence that the presiding 
 genius of the place does not like to be disturbed. 
 An attempt w^s made to pump water from this 
 well. After a few strokes, a violent stream was 
 blown out of the well, ten or fifteen feet high. If 
 the pumping was stopped the blowing would stop 
 also, but renewed afresh as often as the pumping 
 was resumed. The water at the top being cold, 
 seems to hold in abeyance the steam and intensely 
 hot water below ; the action of the pump relieves 
 
CALISTOGA. ' 43 
 
 the superincumbent pressure, when the hot water 
 below rushes out. 
 
 One of the greatest luxuries afforded at Calistoga 
 is the swimming- bath. The water stands at the 
 temperature of 72^ Fahrenheit in summer, and the 
 bath being fifty by forty feet and four feet deep, 
 there is ample space for the swimmer. It can be 
 engaged by parties of ladies or gentlemen on appli- 
 cation at the office of the hotel. 
 
 There are complete arrangements for chemical, 
 vapor, tub, mud, and shower baths, all arranged in 
 the best maimer to produce the necessary curative 
 effects. 
 
 The mud bath is built over a spring of which the 
 temperature is 165"^, and is considered of remarka- 
 ble efficacy in rheumatism. The chemical bath 
 spring is 118°, and is the strongest sulphur Avater 
 at the place. The ground is almost everywhere hot 
 a short distance from the surface. A stew buried 
 four feet deep comes up nicely cooked in two and 
 a half hours. 
 
 A wash-house is built directl}^ over a S23ring of 
 pure soft water, of 113°, which seems to have been 
 created expressly for laundry pur^joses. 
 
 The average summer temperature at Calistoga is 
 as follows : a. m., 55°, m. 86°; 6 p. m., 74° 
 
 At Calistoga is also a fine race track ; and an 
 excellent liver}^ stable. 
 
 Grizzly, brown and cinnamon bear, deer, and 
 
44 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 every species of wild game, are to be found within 
 ten miles, of Calistoga, and tlie streams from the 
 adjacent hills abound with mountain trout. 
 
 Charges at Calistoga Hotel, ^3.00 per day ; 
 special terms by the week. There is a telegraphic 
 station at the hotel, communicating with all the 
 lines in the Union. 
 
 Mr. E. B. Badlam, proprietor of the Calistoga 
 Springs Hotel, devotes the most unremitting atten- 
 tion to the comfort and accomodation of his guests. 
 
 The National Hotel, kept by P. Sieben, has two 
 dining rooms, one for regular boarders, and another 
 for transient passengers. Charges, $2 per day, and 
 $8 to $10 per week; stable and billiard rooms con- 
 nected with the establishment. This is an excellent 
 house for invalids ; charges, moderate ; neat, clean, 
 newly furnished and lately oj)ened, near the rail- 
 road station. Baggage taken free to and from the 
 cars. 
 
 There is an extensive distilleiw here, in which 
 Messrs. Brannan and KeSeberg produce brandy 
 directly from the grape, by which process the natu- 
 ral flavor is said to be preserved, and the "California 
 Cognac" rendered a rival to the best brands of 
 France. 
 
 A considerable village is springing up about the 
 railroad station, and is assuming the proportions of 
 an inland business centre. It now contains 600 in- 
 habitants. 
 
PE TRIFIED FORE S 7» 45 
 
 Petrified Forest. 
 
 Five miles soutli of Cralistoga, on the ridge tliat 
 divides Napa and Santa Kosa valleys, is a fossil 
 forest, the existence of which was first made known 
 by Mr; Charles H. Denison, of San Francisco, in 
 July, 1870. Prof. O. C. Marsh, who visited the 
 spot in October, 1870, in company with the Yale 
 College scientific party, reports as follows : " It is 
 about two thousand feet in height, and is mainly 
 composed of metamorphic rocks of cretaceous age, 
 which are in places, as we ascertained, overlaid 
 unconformably by later tertiary strata, consisting 
 of light-colored, coarse sandstones and beds of 
 stratified volcanic ashes. This ridge had long been 
 covered with a dense growth of chaparral, but just 
 before our visit a destructive fire had swept over a 
 portion of it, rendering it comparatively easy to ex- 
 amine a large tract of country, which apparently 
 had never been explored. A careful examination 
 oi- the locality where the first prostrate trunks had 
 been discovered, soon made it evident that those 
 now on the surface had all been weathered out of 
 the volcanic tufa and sandstones, which form the 
 summit of this part of the mountain ridge. Several 
 large silicified trees were, ^indeed, subsequently 
 found in the vicinity, projecting from the side of a 
 steep bluff, wdiich had partially escaped denudation. 
 Extending our explorations among the mountains 
 for several miles around, we were rewarded by the 
 
46 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 discoveiy of many additional fossil trunks at vari- 
 ous points, sliowing conclusively that this tertia,rj 
 deposit contained the remains of an extensive for- 
 est of very large trees, which had a^oparently been 
 overthrovrn and entombed by some volcanic irrup- 
 tion. Portions of nearly one hundred distinct trees, 
 scattered over a tract three or four miles in extent, 
 were. found by our part}^, and the information we 
 received from hunters and others familiar with the 
 surrounding- country, renders it more than proba- 
 ble that tlie same beds, containing similar masses 
 of silicified wood, extend over a much greater area. 
 
 The fossil trees washing out of this volcanic tufa 
 were mostly of great size, and appeared to be close- 
 ly related to some of the modern forests of the 
 Pacific coast, especially gigantic conifers. All the 
 trees discovered were prostrate, and most of them, 
 after their petrifaction, had been broken trans- 
 versely into several sections, apparently' by the 
 disturbance of the enclosing strata." 
 
 The trees lie generally north and south, some 
 with portions of roots still attached. Prof. Marsh 
 was unable to determine their age. He thinks the 
 origin of 'the volcanic material which covered the 
 forest, may have bee3:^Mount St. Helena. 
 
 A grotto built of portions of these fossil trees, 
 laid up without mortar so as to show their structure, 
 has been constructed in front of the hotel at Calis- 
 toga. Specimens are furnished to visitors. 
 
MOUNT ST. HELENA. 
 
 Mount St Helena, 
 
 An extinct volcano, is situated northwest from 
 Calistoga. It is about five miles to tlie base and 
 ten to the summit, although in a clear day api^ar- 
 ently much nearer, and bv actual measurement 4.343 
 feet high. It Vv-as named after the Grand-Duchess 
 Helene, of Russia. The summit was visited by the 
 Russian naturalist, Wosnessensky, in 1841. Tne 
 copper plate placed upon the mountain, \vith a 
 record of his visit, was removed for jDreservation by 
 the officers of the Geological Sui-vey. Doubtless 
 it was by eruptions from this mountain, in some 
 long-forgotten age, that the petrified forest ten 
 miles south was entombed. An excellent trail has 
 been cut from Calistoga to the summit. 
 
 The Geysers. 
 
 There are two routes from ^ii^ Francisco to the 
 Geysers; one by the steamer Capital from the foot 
 of Front street, at 8 a. m. and 4 p.m., excepting 
 Sundays, when there is one departui-e, viz: at 8.30 
 A. M. Connection with cars at Yallejo for Calistoga, 
 passing through Xapa valley. Fare to Calistoga, 
 $3.50. 
 • The other route is by steamer Sacramento, which 
 leaves foot of Jackson street at 8.30 a. m., connecting 
 with cars at Donahue, and thence, via Petaluma 
 and Santa Rosa, to Healdsburg. Fare to Santa 
 Rosa, $2. 
 
48 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 Stages leave Calistoga every morning and after- 
 noon for tlie Geysers. Stages also leave Healds- 
 burg every morning and evening for the same desti- 
 nation. The fare either from Healdsburg or from 
 Calistoga to the Geysers is $6. 
 
 Passengers by the four o'clock departure from 
 San Francisco remain over night at Calistoga or 
 Healdsburg, and take stage the next morning for 
 the Geysers. They can return on the same day either 
 to Calistoga or Healdsburg, and, remaining over 
 night, return to San Francisco the next morning. 
 
 The road from Calistoga is called the " new road," 
 that from Healdsburg, the " old road." Distance 
 from Calistoga to Knight's Valley (now called Peace 
 Valley) is eight miles; to Pine Flat, nineteen miles; 
 to Geyser Springs, twenty-eight miles. From Healds- 
 burg to Foss Station, eight miles; to Geyser Peak, 
 fourteen and a half miles, and to Gej^ser Si^rings, 
 twenty miles. ^ 
 
 Over the New Road. 
 
 Mr. J. F. Manning, in LippincoW s Magazine , gives 
 the following vivid account of a trip over this road : 
 
 "Early in the morning we are ready for the world- 
 . renowned stage-ride to the Geysers. ' Punctually 
 at seven, Foss, the proprietor of the stage line, and 
 his assistant, Albertson, are at the hotel door. As 
 promptly as a conductor on a leading raihva}' , Foss 
 shouts out his ' ' All aboard ! " and is impatient of 
 
THE GEYSERS. 49 
 
 dela5^ As the hand passes seven, the hour for 
 starting, away y/e go, in two large open wagons, 
 each d^.wn by four strong and spirited horses, who 
 are familiar with every rod of the twenty-eight 
 miles between us and the Geyser Hotel. 
 
 The first ten miles pass along a narrow valley 
 dotted occasionally with farmhouses. Thus far the 
 road is nearly level, but now the valley ceases ab- 
 ruptly, and the ascent of the mountains begins, 
 ^he horses are changed, and after a few minutes 
 rest we take a fresh start. The countr}^ is wild 
 and broken, no habitations in sight — nothing but 
 Nature as it came from the hand of its Creator. 
 We look ahead in the direction in which the road 
 we are on seems to lead, and endeavor to descry its 
 course, but it is like trying to see through the per- 
 spective of a labyrinth. So we content ourselves 
 with snatching occasional glimpses as some ascent, 
 descent or sharp turn brings a portion into view. 
 
 The track is just wide enough for a single car- 
 riage. In many places, where it has been blasted 
 out of solid rock, there are not six inches of leeway. 
 The hubs of the right-hand v/lleels revolve close to 
 the perpendicular banks, and the others almost jut 
 out over the edge of the j)recipices, some of which go 
 down nearly straight from one thousand to three 
 thousand feet. After a ten-mile drive the summit 
 is reached. It offers one of the grandest views of 
 mountain scenery which the globe affords. As far 
 
BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDi 
 
 as the eye can see (and tlie vision sweej)S many 
 times farther in this clear atmosphere of the Pacific 
 shore than anywhere east of the Mississippi) fount- 
 ains succeed mountains, peaks are piled on peaks, 
 gorges, ravines, canons, divide them, serving to 
 throw into shadow the steeps as the fleecy clouds 
 go scudding athwart the bluest of heavens. Gaz- 
 ing away for scores of miles, the earth's surface 
 seems nothing but mountains. We wonder where 
 the plains are, the fields waving with grain, the 
 vine-clad hills, the orchards, the villages and towns. 
 Api^arently we are in an endless region of mount- 
 ain waste, and doubt if it will be possible to find our 
 way back again to civilization, even with a compass, 
 unless it be by the skill of this daring champion 
 reinsman of the world, Foss. How delicious to 
 linger on this summit! ' The breezes, tempering to 
 an agreeable point the fierce rays of the sun, sweep, 
 not too roughl}^, clear and bracing over these top- 
 most heights. It is a mountain paradise. How we 
 long to tarry here for days, and get new strength 
 and fresh inspiration from this well nigh aerial sj)ot ! 
 As the stages vf ound their way up the steeps we 
 met a carriage coming in the 023posite direction. At 
 first the thought came that one or the other must 
 back to some spot where the way broadened, that 
 we might x^ass each other. But, b}^ unusual good 
 luck, we chanced to be in a portion of the road 
 where vv^e could see ahead several rods, and between 
 
THE GEYSERS. 51 
 
 tlie approaching veliicles the track wiclened out a 
 little, pieces of blasted rock and earth having lodged 
 on a portion of the bank. Bj all of. one party 
 alighting, and the carriage being drawn out to the 
 very verge of the precipice and kept in place by se- 
 veral strong arms, skillful driving managed to get 
 us by safely. As there is only one line of stages 
 running over this route, and private carriages very 
 rarely travel it, little difficulty is experienced in 
 meeting and passing. 
 
 After lingering a while on the top of the mount- 
 ain ridge, the eight mile descent down the other 
 side begins. The horses snuff the air and prick up 
 their ears, preparing for the downward course. 
 Evidently they are glad they are up, and relish the 
 prospect of going down, as easier and more excit- 
 ing. The driver cracks his long whip forward over 
 the leaders-, and, famihar with the signal, away they 
 prance, and are soon in a ten-mile gait. In the 
 whole eight miles there is not a single quarter which 
 is straight. The road winds constantly, turning 
 and meandering the entire distance. Sometimes 
 there are short, sharp, elbow-like turns, almost in 
 ox-bow form. Except at places widely separe„ted, 
 the track is of uniform width, leaving only about 
 six inches between the line where the outer w^heels 
 roll along and the edge of the declivities, v*-hich 
 shoot dov/n one thousand, two thousand, even 
 three thousand, feet to the bottom, where the boil- 
 
52 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 ing, tumbling brooks course along over their rocky, 
 slirub-borclered beds. The sides are rough with 
 projecting rocks and scrubb}^ trees, mostly oaks and 
 madrones. A tripping horse, a sudden lurch of the 
 vehicle to the outer side, or a broken axle, would, in 
 all human probability, throw the load into the 
 abysses. And yet, during the nine years' driving, 
 no harm has ever come to any one. The utmost 
 care is used in keej^ing wagons and harness in ex- 
 cellent order. If one can control his nerves, keep 
 cool and enjoy the majestic scenery, the sure and 
 nimble movements of the trained horses, the peril- 
 ous points, and the skill and daring of the driver, 
 there is not a j)leasanter ride on the continent. As 
 the leaders pass the ox-bow turns, they seem to be 
 plunging head-foremost against the thither bank, 
 but as their noses almost touch it they spring quick- 
 ly and with certain bound to the centre : round 
 come the wheel horses in fine style, and the car- 
 riage follows as smoothl}^ and easily as on the best 
 race-track. The driver's face occasionally wears a 
 conquering smile, and he says, with a slight impa- 
 tience at our timidity, and an assuring tone and 
 manner, " Perfectly safe — driven here nine years^ 
 and no accident has happened. I guess ijoii will 
 get there all right." 
 
THE GEYSERS. 53 
 
 From Healdsburg to Geyser Springs. 
 
 The road from Healdsburg passes four or five 
 miles, tlirougli scenery of singular beauty. Fancy 
 a countiy composed of mounds of from one liundred 
 to five hundred feet in height, arranged in every 
 possible style of grouping, or piled against and 
 upon each other, yet always rounded off with most 
 wonderful smoothness and grace ; not a line but 
 curves as exquisitely as the loins of the antique 
 Venus, covered with a sliort, even sward o:^ golden 
 grass, and studded with trees, singly, in clumps, or 
 in groves, which surpass in artistic perfection of 
 form all other trees that grow. "This," said Bay- 
 ard Taylor, "is certainly the last created portion 
 of our planet. Here the divine Architect has lin- 
 gered over his work with reluctant fondness, giv- 
 ing it the final caressing touches, with which he 
 pronoujiced it good. Our further journe}^ seemed 
 to be through some j)rovince of dreamland. As the 
 valley opened again, and our course turned east- 
 ward toward the group of lofty mountains in which 
 the Pluton river lies hidden, visions of violet peaks 
 shimmered afar, through the perfect trees. Head- 
 lands, crowned with colossal redwood, were thrust 
 forward from the ranges on either hand, embaying 
 i)etween them the loveliest giens. After crossing 
 the Russian river a second time — here a broad bed 
 of pebbles — are fields and farm-houses. The road is 
 4 
 
51 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 continually crossed by deep arroyos, the smaller gul- 
 lies being roughly bridged with loose logs, coYered 
 with brush. We were evidentl}^ ap23roaching the 
 confines of civilization." Eight miles from Healds- 
 burg, at the foot of Geyser Peak, the trayeler 
 reaches Foss station, which is twelve miles from 
 the Geysers. The road passes up a small canon 
 and crosses over the side of a conical mountain 
 called Geyser Peak, w^hich rises 3,800 feet above 
 the sea level, and in clear weather is dis- 
 tinctly ^isible from the bay of San Francisco, 
 Eastward, across intervening valleys, rises St. 
 Helena, 4,343 feet high ; while to the west and 
 south, the valley of Russian river, which here 
 makes an afciaipt curve, S23reads out wide before us, 
 a dazzling picture of w^armth, life, and beauty, cov- 
 ered as with a misty violet bloom. The road is 
 shaded with pines, oaks, and gigantic madronas, 
 with an undergrowth of buckeye and manzanita. 
 Gradually ascending, for a mile and a half, the first 
 terrace or abutment of the mountain chain is 
 reached, where the road follows the top of the ridge 
 for three or four miles. Across a deep hollow on 
 the right, splendidly robed in frosts, rises Geyser 
 Peak, covered to the summit with purple chemisal. 
 Descending into this hollow, which narrows to an 
 abrupt gorge, the road regains the summit of the, 
 ridge beyond the gorge, and gradually winding, 
 brings the traveler to the height of three thousand 
 
THE GEYSERS. 55 
 
 two liiindred feet, tlie highest part of the road, 
 called the "Summit." Here is a region of the 
 wildest sublimity. Sheer down descend huge 
 mountain sides to depths unknown, for they are 
 concealed by the thick-set pillars of the fir and red- 
 wood. Opposite, heights rise equally abrupt ; over 
 their almost level line, the blue wall of a chain be- 
 yond, and scattered peaks in the dim distance. 
 The intervening gorges run east and west, but that 
 which crosses the course of the road, is divided by 
 a narrow partition wall, or sharjD mountain crest, 
 crossing it transversely, and connecting the sum- 
 mits of the two chains ; and over this partition wall, 
 called the "Hog's Back," lies the road. For sev- 
 eral miles the road continues along the curves of 
 this narrow ridge, (forming the "divide" between 
 Sulphur .creek and Pluton river) which, although 
 widened out by blasting and filling up chasms, at 
 an expense of many thousand dollars, is rarely over 
 ten or twelve feet wide, and in one place only seven. 
 On each side the mountain plunges sheer down 
 thousands of feet to the ravines below, the bottom 
 of which is invisible from the steepness of the sides. 
 This part ctf the trip has been compared to riding 
 along the edge of the roof of a Gothic church. 
 'This comparatively level portion of the road opens 
 ujjpn a hilly region, and finally X3itches sharply 
 down a steep mountain ridge, making thirty-five 
 sharp turns, and descending sixteen hundred feet 
 
56 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 in a distance of two miles, to the Pluton river, where 
 the Geyser Sx)ring'S hotel awaits the traveler. 
 
 At the Geysers. 
 
 The hotel stands near the Pluton river, which 
 runs through a deep mountain gorge, called Pluton 
 canon, and empties into Russian river. Standing 
 upon the verandah, the visitor looks up Ge^^ser 
 .canon, in which are the more notable springs, and 
 which enters the Pluton just opposite the hotel, at 
 right angles.- Mr. J. C. Susenbeth, proprietor of 
 the hotel,' has taken every pains to provide good en- 
 tei-tainment to all visitors to the Geysers. Good 
 fare, civil treatment, comfort and cleanliness may 
 be relied upon, and no effoi-t will be lacking to 
 render a visit pleasant to every guest. 
 
 The Pluton canon, extending to the light and 
 left, is much longer than the other, and its sides 
 very precij)itous — in some places perpendicular. 
 The stream which flows through it is filled with 
 mountain trout, that seem to sport, unconscious of 
 the sulphurous odor that pervades the air, and the 
 subterraneous turmoil in jDrogress close at hand. 
 To explore the Geyser canon, we descead the bank 
 of the Pluton by a devious, irregular, winding path, 
 cross a small rustic bridge, and find ourself face to 
 face with the chief wonders of this apparently "iji- 
 fernal region." 
 
 The best method of exploring, is to enter the 
 
THE GEYSERS. 57 
 
 bottom of the canon and climb gradually to tlie top. 
 The distance is half a mile. Many persons, ladies 
 especially, are deteiTed from doing so, but tliere is 
 nothing very difficult, or dangerous in it. The 
 width at the bottom is from one to two rods, and 
 the mountains forming its sides, rise fourteen hun- 
 dred or fifteen hundred feet, at an angle of forty- 
 five degrees. A small stream, rising at the head of 
 the caiion, flows through its whole length. Cold 
 and pure at its source, it- is heated and sullied in 
 its progress, by the spiings that pour their waters 
 into it. Springs of all sorts : white, red, and black 
 sulphur, iron springs, soda springs, alum springs, 
 epsom salt sj^rings, all unite to make of the little 
 brooklet a nauseous, pale, milky mixture of unim- 
 aginable ingredients, beyond the reach of chemical 
 anatysis. 
 
 Commencing at the foot of the canon, we first 
 meet with the "alum spring," so strongl}^ impreg- 
 nated with iron that incrustations are formed 
 around it in a single night. Just beyond it is a 
 deep pool, which receives the united waters of the 
 various springs above it, and which has received the 
 name of the "Medicated Geyser Bath." It is in- 
 deed highl}^ medicated, containing iron, magnesia, 
 sulphur, epsom salts, and other substances ; and be- 
 in^- cooled down in its progress to about the tem- 
 perature of summer, is said by visitors to be a most 
 luxurious bath. Close at hand is a boilino- alum 
 
58 BAA'CROFT'S TOURIST' S^GUIDE. 
 
 and snl2:)linr spring, and a "black sulpliur" spring, 
 both of tlie temperature of loO'^. Beyond these is 
 the "boiling black sulphur spiking," vrhich is con- 
 stantly roaring in a state of violent ebullition. 
 Proceeding further up the canon, the springs, great 
 and small, become more numerous, and are bub- 
 bling and boiling in all directions. The water of 
 the stream is hot, and the earth under foot is nearly 
 as hot as the water. The rocks on all sides are in- 
 crusted with e23Som salts, tartaric acid, alum, mag- 
 nesia and sulphur, which have been bleaching and 
 mingling in all proportions, for unknown ages, and 
 streaked their surfaces with dismal and unearthly 
 colors. One spring is called the "Devil's Ink- 
 stand," and the registry at the hotel is written with 
 its dark colored contents. Every boiling spring 
 has its own peculiar sound, varying with the season 
 and the pressure of the atmosphere. One is called 
 the "Devil's Gristmill," as it produces a sound 
 precisely like that of a mill in motion. 
 
 But high above every other sound, is the roaring 
 of the great "Steamboat Geyser." The steam of 
 this Geyser issues from an opening in the rocks 
 about two feet in diameter, near the bottom of the 
 canon. The heat is so great as to render the steam 
 invisible for five or six feet above the aperture. On 
 a clear day it forms a column three hundred feet 
 high, and which is dangerous to approach too 
 nearly. 
 
THE GEYSERS. 59 
 
 But the prevailing- sound, more terrible to tlie 
 visitor than all others, is the continuous subterra- 
 neous roar, like that which precedes an earthquake. 
 The cavernous ground shakes and trembles under^ 
 his feet ; at the slightest aperture through the thin 
 crust of the surface, hot jets of sulphurous steam 
 escape. The discordant din of the hundreds of 
 steam vents, and the noxious gases emitted on every 
 side, combine to impress the visitor with awe or 
 terror. He feels that resistless power is working 
 all around him and beneath his feet, against which 
 it were in vain to contend, and in spite of himself, 
 finds doubts creeping over him as to the safet}^ of 
 mortals venturing within the scope of its activity. 
 Onl}^ a few steps from the Steamboat Geyser is the 
 *' Witches' Caldron." All around this the ground 
 is shaking continually ; the sm-face iS a clammy 
 mass of mud mingled with crystals of sulphur. A 
 horrible cavity opens in the black rock before the 
 visitor, over seven feet wide, and of fathomless 
 depth, filled with a black, diabolical looking fluid, 
 seething, boiling and raging around the caldron, 
 rising occasionally one or two feet above its sides, 
 and sending forth a most doleful hissing and howl- 
 ing sound, yet never running over. The tempera- 
 ture of the water is 200°. 
 
 A curious incident occurred here in 1861. From 
 some unknown cause the ' ' Witches' Caldron " be- 
 caiiie emptied of its contents and filled with steam. 
 
6o BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 The proprietor of tlie Ge^'ser Hotel, fearing that 
 the place would thus be deprived of oue of its chief 
 attractions, caused a small stream of water to he 
 .led into the caldron, curious himself to see what 
 would be the result. The instant the cool water 
 came in contact with the lower portion of the cavity, 
 a fearful commotion ensued. The ground for sev- 
 eral rods about shook with violence, and in a few 
 minutes after, the inflowing water was ejected with 
 stunning reports, and thrown to the height of near- 
 ly one hundred feet. In about three hours after 
 the water was shut off, the viscid fluid re-appeared 
 and has continued to boil and bubble ever since. 
 No language can adequately describe the impres- 
 sion produced by the first visit to the Geysers. The 
 wild scenery around, the torn, irregular walls of 
 the canons, splintered into form by earthquakes, and 
 dyed in all shades of color by the action of chemi- 
 cals, aided b}^ subterraneous fires, the fierce heat, 
 the stunning, stifling vapors, and the Vvdld, threat- 
 ening sound of the heated and pent-up waters, that 
 seem maddened into fury and struggling to escape, 
 all combine to produce sensations at once novel 
 and startling. 
 
 "The Mountain of Fire" is an extensive eleva- 
 tion, crusted over with brittle crystals of sulphur, 
 and from which steam issues in li hundred places. 
 The sight is less impressive than many others, but 
 a view of it confirms the belief of. the spectat* in 
 
THE GEYSERS. 6i 
 
 the vastuess of the. subterraneous iires at work in 
 this region. 
 
 It would be useless to mention b}' name all the 
 springs in this canon, if, indeed, all of them have 
 received names. As is but natural, in the nomen- 
 clature thus far adopted in this Tartarian region, 
 his Satanic Majesty receives the highest honors. 
 At the Ge^^sers the visitor will find the "Devil's 
 Apothecary Shop,'' the "Devil's Inkbottle," and, 
 strangest of all, the "Devil's Pulpit." The latter 
 is the name of a projecting rock at the head of the 
 canon. 
 
 About four miles northeast, up Pluton canon, on 
 the side of a hill at an altitude of two thousand 
 two hundred feet, are the Little Geysers, a series 
 of hot scorings, but which contain no mineral sub- 
 stances. 
 
 The region about the Geysers is wild and bea.uti- 
 ful, with extensive forests and abundant game. 
 Deer and bears, quail and trout, are still plentiful 
 in these secluded mountain fastnesses. 
 
 Eev. T. Starr King, who visited the Ge^^sers in 
 1860, says: 
 
 "The Gej'sers are situated in a ravine, called, 
 not inappropriately, ' The Devil's Canon,' which is 
 a vast trench a quarter of a mile long, cut out of 
 another large ravine nearly fifteen hundred feet 
 deep. 
 
 Instead of following up the little stream that 
 
62 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 flows through the smaller ra^dne, we started for 
 the upper portion of the canon, in order to follow 
 down the rivulet that enters the frightful trench a 
 pure, cold mountain rill, and issues from it a quar- 
 ter of a mile below, hot and saturated with nearly 
 all the acids of a medical laboratory. Just before 
 reaching the point for the descent, we came upon 
 the 'Boiling Caldrons,' as they are called. ThesB 
 were openings in the ground, partly protected by 
 a back setting of volcanic looking rocks, where 
 pools of water were boiling or simmering. In one 
 of them we could watch the swash, a slaty-hued 
 ditch water, as it seemed, which exhaled the stench 
 of dock mud. It appeared to be a vent for some 
 boiling sewer of the pit. Three feet off, cleaner 
 water was bubbling, with a gentle cooking sound; 
 and at another short remove, steam was issuing 
 from a score of vents in steady whiffs, depositing 
 around each little opening beautiful feathery crys- 
 tals of sulphur.' The ground was very hot, and 
 soon suggested to the feet the necessity of quick 
 observations. Yet the scene was not entirely devoid 
 of life. A bob-tailed lizard, a genuine salamander, 
 was running over the baked and burning soil as 
 though he enjoyed the temperature. And twenty 
 feet distant, charming wild flowers were growing, 
 with a touch of blight from the neighboring heat 
 or steam. 
 
 The ' Devil's Canon,' which we now enter at the 
 
THE GEYSERS. 
 
 upper end, after leaving these caldrons, is from 
 two to three hundred feet deep, and as dreary a 
 piece cf desolation as pne will be likely to find on 
 the surface of the globe, and this side of the moon. 
 It slopes on either hand to so narrow a bottom, 
 that the little Pluton creek has just room to thread 
 its waj^ through. A few very sicklj^-looking trees 
 straggle along the uj^^er edges, but the sides are 
 fatal to any vegetable life. Half-way down the 
 earth is reddish; then vaiious dismal colors are 
 laid in — the signs of a rich variety of chemical ex- 
 periments by nature, on a large scale. There are 
 the white knolls bulging out from the lower slopes, 
 reddish, iron-rust patches, ashy patches, slaty and 
 greenish stains, and every other hue that suggests 
 blight and deadliness. Out of it all, too, steam is 
 hissing in larger and smaller columns, from two to 
 three hundred blow-holes, a fit accompaniment to 
 the aspect of desolation. Standing on a juttingpoint 
 over the upper end of the ravine, that commands a 
 view on both sides, and also of the exquisite fresh- 
 ness and beauty of the larger ravine walls, within 
 which the ' Devil's Canon' is enclosed, the contrast 
 of the organizing and the decomposing forces 
 which nature wields with equal ease, is very strik- 
 ing and impressive. 
 
 The Pluton creek is cool when it first enters the 
 smaller ravine out of the larger one, but it is even 
 then strongly impregnated with sulphur, and 
 
64 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 tliougii beneficial, is an3''tliing but pleasant to take 
 — like most beneficial appliances in nature. As we 
 began to- follow it down bei^ween tlie hissing wails, 
 we were saluted witli a stench which our chemical 
 companion described as pure sulphide of hydrogen — 
 better known to some philanthropists on unpopular 
 platforms, as the gas set. free from venerable eggs 
 when suddenly, ruptured. There must have been a 
 frightfully large subterraneous nest of them not 
 many rods under our feet. 
 
 We hurried by many of the lesser wonders in 
 order to reach the great Steamboat spiing, on the 
 light hand wall of the canon. This is the spout 
 whose loud wheezing we heard, nearly a mile oiF, 
 while descending into the larger ravine on horse- 
 back. Around it is a huge pile of slags and fright- 
 ful clinkers, over which rises the continual roar of 
 escai>ing steam- from an orifice two feet in diam- 
 eter, and, in pulsations, precisely like those of 
 a huge engine hard at work. Each beat sends 
 the vapor up visibly fifty to a hundred feet; but 
 in the early morning, when the air was cool, I 
 saw a column five hundred feet high, and widened 
 to a cloud above, belched from the strange boiler 
 that relieves its wrath through the mountain 
 side. Often, a little after sunrise, too, a rain- 
 bow ' can be seen on the steam-cloud, spanning 
 the whole length of the awful trench, with hues 
 as clear as if thev were refracted in pure water- 
 
THE GEYSERS. 65 
 
 drops, and not in sulpliui'ous va^^ors fresli from 
 Hades. 
 
 How a clieniist would revel in the nofiious and 
 mepliitic vapors that puff or whistle out of the 
 leached, hot 'walls! Here he Avould turn up a 
 patch of brown, crumbly soil, and find a clay that 
 looks like blue vitriol; near by, under a shelving- 
 ledge, is a . brisk, bubbling pool, overhung with 
 verdigris enciTistings; a fev/ feet off spurts a beaded 
 jet of hot waters which sheds a dismal brown cast- 
 ing over the surrounding earth; a little wa}- further 
 still, is a spring that looks like pure hot ink; then 
 we discover a rock of alum that Vv^eighs two or three 
 hundred pounds; then a small fountain of Epsom 
 salts; not far oft", again, a basin apparently of boil- 
 ing soap-suds ; then iron springs, soda springs, 
 white, red, and black sulphur springs; and soon a 
 foul Stygian sluice, close to the wall, from which a 
 steam exhales that covers the overhanging earth 
 with a slimy deposit which eats j^our clothes if 3'ou 
 touch it, as ravenously as aqua fortis. Whether 
 the origin of the heats and va^^ors is volcanic, or 
 simply chemical, is not decided 3'et, I believe, by 
 the scientific gentlemen who have visited the ravine. 
 If it is volcanic, Satan's medicine-shop must be not 
 veiy far below the line of Pluton creek. 
 
 After leaving the ' Steamboat Spring,' and clam- 
 bering along the sides of a cliff, from which steam 
 is flying through fifty fissures, we must sto^^ a few 
 
65 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 minutes at the ' Witches' Caldron.' This is on the 
 same side of the ravine with the Steamboat spring, 
 and some fifty rods below. It is a pool six feet in 
 diameter, without any visible outlet, where a liquid, 
 thick and black, is continually boiling and swash- 
 ing. The portion of the wall that stands immedi- 
 ately over it is begrimed, like a chimney back, for 
 fifteen feet up, and then above is crusted with 
 charming vesicular sulphur crystals. Twenty feet 
 opposite, on the left wall of the ravine, is a crevice 
 called the ' Devil's Glrist Mill,' from which boiling 
 water spurts clean, and the steam issues with pre- 
 ciseh^ the sound of a grist mill in motion. The 
 turbid, miry hue, and substance of the "Witches' 
 C aldron is the more curious from its neighborhood 
 to this clear and powerful hot spring. The proper 
 time to visit this sj^ot would be in some moonlight 
 evening, when mid winds were up, and heavy clouds 
 were drifting across the sky. Then, in the inter- 
 mitting shadows and gleams, one might feel the 
 presence of sjmits akin to the weird sisters around 
 the reechy pool, and almost hear the chant — 
 
 Fillet of a fenny snake 
 In the cauldron boil and bake ; 
 Eye of newt, and toe of frog, 
 Wool of bat, and tongue of dog, 
 Adder's fork, and blind-worm's sting, 
 Lizard's leg and owlet's wing. 
 For a cliarin of powerful trouble. 
 Like a hell -broth boil and bubble. 
 
THE GEYSERS. 67 
 
 The Indians have brought their sick once a year, 
 during the last century, to Sulphur springs, not 
 far below, but they report no legends that attach 
 to the maryelous canon. 
 
 After leaving the canon, we tried to bathe in the 
 Holam, which is conducted at blood heat to a bath 
 house an eighth of a mile distant. It was refresh- 
 ing, as a bath ought to be when the water is medi- 
 cated with ever}^ kind of drug and vapor that sepa- 
 rately^ is accounted serviceable to the human frame. 
 One ablution in such a tide, ought to save a man from 
 the possibility of rheumatism for life. And more 
 grateful than the bath, was the breathing of pure air, 
 and the sight of healthful bloom, after two hours 
 rambling over the hot ashes and through the Tarta- 
 rean streams of the ravine, How delightful tlmt so 
 little of visible nature is a laboratory, in which we 
 see her chemical j^roeesses raw. The more wonder- 
 ful chemistry is that which is sheathed in beauty. 
 There is more violent appeal to the senses in the 
 column of steam that roars through the crevice of 
 clinkers, and mounts a hundred feet to melt away; 
 but there is greater power and a more cunning 
 handling of the chemical forces in the driving of 
 water two hundred feet higli through the tree-veins 
 to be arrested in the substance of leaf and twig, and 
 in the sorcery that converts its drops into the hard 
 column of the tree trunk, that will stand five hun-. 
 dred years. 
 
68 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 In the ' Devil's Canon,' we see nature analytic 
 and critical ; lier work is mostlj^ death. In the 
 floYA^ers and groves, and hillsides lined with beauty, 
 just outside the sulphurous gorge, and in the blue 
 air and noiseless light, we see nature, synthetic 
 and creative, wrapping her acids in sweetness, 
 veiling her noisome vapors in perfume, transform- 
 ing her fires into bloom, harnessing her deadly 
 gases to the work of adorning the earth and serving 
 man. And we will ride away from the Geysers, 
 grateful that we have seen its marvels and terrors, 
 and the more grateful that the Creator hides from 
 us, by so much ever-renewing loveliness on the 
 bosom of the world, the awful fact which the 
 ' Professor' has so concisely stated, that we. live 
 on ti globe which has a ' crust of fossils and a 
 heart of fire.' " 
 
 The Clear Lake Region 
 
 Is the only hunting ground of any great extent 
 or imjDoi-tance near San Francisco, and its abundant 
 game the chief attraction. Notwithstanding the 
 inroads of civilization, the Lake region abounds in 
 deer, bears, panthers, hare, squirrels, foxes, grouse, 
 quail, pigeons, geese, and ducks, and its waters 
 are filled with fish of many varieties; and the faoe 
 of the country is so broken and mountainous, that 
 wild animals can scarcely be exterminated. Doubt- 
 less game will be abundant, at least for the next 
 
THE CLEAR LAKE REGLON. 69 
 
 generation. As germane to this subject, we give 
 the provisions of the Game Law, and the ]3enalty 
 for its violation : 
 
 "Section 1. It shall not be lawful for any per- 
 son or persons hereafter to take, kill, or destroy 
 any of the following game, within the time here- 
 inafter specified, namely: quails, partridges, or 
 grouse, mallard duck, wood duck, teal duck, or 
 spoon-bill duck, and all other broad-bill ducks, 
 shall not be taken, killed, or destroyed be- 
 tween the fifteenth da.y of March and the fifteenth 
 day of September in each year. 
 
 " Sec. 2. It shall not be la^^ful for any person 
 or persons hereafter to take, kill, or destroy the 
 male or female of any elk, deer, or antelope between 
 the first day of January and the first day of *July 
 in each year. 
 
 " Sec. 3. Any person or persons offending against 
 either of the provisions contained in the preceding 
 sections, or who shall buy, sell, or expose to be 
 sold any such game above enumerated, or have any 
 of the same in their possession, within the time 
 and times therein specified, except such as are 
 tamed and kept for show or cunosity, shall be fined 
 in the sum of twenty-five dollars, for each and 
 every quail or partridge, mallard duck, wood or 
 summer duck, elk, deer, or anteloj)e so killed, 
 taken, or destroyed, bought or sold, or exposed to. 
 be sold, or in possession. 
 
70 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 *' Sec. 4. Each and eveiy person or persons 
 offending against the provisions of this Act, shall 
 be guilty of a misdemeanor, and shall be punished, 
 upon conviction, by a fine of not more than five 
 hundred dollars, or imprisonment in the county 
 jail for a term not to exceed thirty days, or b}^ both 
 such fine and imprisonment." 
 
 The stage leaves Calistoga at eight o'clock, a.m., 
 for Lower Lake and Lakeport. Fare to Lakeport, 
 $5 00. Mr. Charles McGreer, proprietor of the 
 line, drives a splendid team over a portion of the 
 road, usually from Lower Lake to Lakeport. 
 
 Where, the object in traveling by stage is to view 
 the scenery, the first step should be^to gain a seat 
 beside the driver, if possible. This will secure 
 several advantages, among which are an easier mo- 
 tion of the vehicle, an unobstructed and more 
 extensive view, and good company. The stage- 
 driver in California is frequently the owner of the 
 line, and a California gentleman, above the average 
 of his passengers in general intelligence and knov,d- 
 edge of the country. The only disadvantages of 
 an outside seat is greater exposure to heat and 
 cold. 
 
 Travel in these parts would be vastly increased 
 if there was a steamer upon the Lake making reg- 
 ular trips to the various landings, and connecting 
 with good stage lines. 
 
 Emerging from Napa valley at Calistoga, on our 
 
THE CLEAR LAKE REG L ON. 71 
 
 trip to the Lake, we ascend Mount St. Helena \)j 
 an easy grade. The road passes on the left side of 
 a deep mountain gorge, gradually rising until the 
 highest point is crossed, at an altitude of two thou- 
 tandfive hundred feet. The summit of St. IJ^lena 
 towers over eight hundred feet above. H^re, in 
 the early morning, a most magnificent spectacle is 
 presented. As the traveler emerges into the sun- 
 light from the sea of mist which fills the valleys of 
 the coast range, and which. until now has been in- 
 visible, he finds himself shut out, completely iso- 
 lated, from all the lower world. A limitless ocean 
 surrounds him on every hand — not }5alpable, yet to 
 the eye as truly an ocean as the Pacific itself. 
 Through this ocean, as if to complete the illusion, 
 rise the mountain peaks, like islands in the expanse 
 — their shore-lines sharp and well defined, and 
 their sides clad in trees and verdure, or glistening 
 with naked rocks. As the sun rises higher and 
 higher, the watery vapor loses its density and its 
 continuity, separating into fleecy clouds, and finally 
 vanishing like a dream. Then the valleys below 
 burst upon the sight in all their loveliness, stretch- 
 ing away in the blue distance, dotted with farm- 
 houses, and traversed by living streams. 
 
 It is not probable that the railroad will ever be con- 
 tinued from Calistoga in this direction, as the most 
 practicable route is probably from Suisun, through 
 Putah canon, Berreyessa valley, and Sulphur canon 
 
72 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 to Lower Lake.. The countiy is quite level to tlie 
 foot of Putah canon, and tlironghout Berreyessa 
 valle}"; Putali and Sulphur canons, and the moun- 
 tainous country from the head of the latter for 
 eighteen miles, to the foot of Clear Lake, present 
 formidable obstacles to the railroad engineer, only 
 to be overcome b}' a large outlay of money. 
 
 Eight miles from Calistoga is the Toll House, a 
 pleasant breathing si:»ot, where the descent begins 
 into Loconome Valley. This is a long, narrow 
 strip, with now and then fertile spots, which are 
 cultivated. Gold and silver have been found in 
 this valley in small quantities. Twelve miles from 
 the Toll House is a station for changing horses 
 called 
 
 Middletow^n, 
 
 ^n einbrj^o city, consisting of stables, a saloon, and 
 a few houses, without much in the visible surround- 
 ings to excite great hopes for the future. 
 
 Three miles northwest of Middletown is situated 
 
 Harbin Springs. 
 
 A variety of mineral springs here abound, and 
 visitors are provided with suitable accommodations. 
 
 Guenoc. 
 
 Four miles from Middletown, we arrive at Gue- 
 noc, a small trading centre in Coyote Valle}^ v^^ith a 
 store, postoffice, and a few other buildings. Coyote 
 
MOUNT ST. HELENA. 73 
 
 Valley is ten miles long, quite level, and remarka- 
 ble for tlie number of detached conical hillocks ris- 
 ing here and there upon its surface. It is a beauti- 
 ful region of fertile valley land, containing about 
 ten thousand acres. From Coyote Valley the trav- 
 eler proceeds, over Clear Lake Mountain — a low 
 range abounding in quail, and a fine field for the 
 sportsman — to Cache Creek Valley. Cache Creek is 
 the outlet of Clear Lake. About twelve miles from 
 Guenoc and tv/o miles from the foot of the latter, 
 and at the junction of several roads entering the 
 valley, is situated the town of 
 
 LoTver Lake. 
 
 Adjacent to this place are the dam and mills of the 
 Clear Lake Water Company, which have given rise, 
 for several years, to much disturbance and litiga- 
 tion. The population is about four hundred. The 
 princijDal hotel is the Virginia House, kept by E-. H. 
 Lawrence. The vicinity offers great attractions for 
 sportsmen. The celebrated Borax Lake is seven 
 miles northward from the town, and the Sulphur 
 Bank, ten miles. Borax is produced in large quan- 
 tities, and has driven the foreign article from the 
 market. Large quantities of sulphur from the 
 works at the Sulphur Bank are consumed by the 
 Marin and Santa Cruz Powder Works. A very fine 
 view of Clear Lake is obtained from the road be- 
 tween Lower Lake and the Sulphur Bank. Eight- 
 
74 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 een miles south, are the Eedington and Manhattafti 
 quicksilver mines, both in successful operation. 
 The Redington mine has proved highly productive 
 for many years. Bartlett Si^rings are twenty-five 
 miles north from Lower Lake. 
 
 Mr. B. H. Lawrence, proprietor of the Vir- 
 ginia House, is familiar with the hunting grounds, 
 spending, as he does, much of his time with his gun. 
 He will give all requisite information to sj^ortsmen 
 visiting his house. Quail, duck, geese, and deer 
 abound in season. Myriads of wild pigeons con- 
 gregate invitingly upon the trees ; trout and perch 
 may Idc taken from the middle of April to the mid- 
 dle of June. Lower Lake is quite a flourishing 
 town, the centre of the borax and quicksilver trade, 
 and is destined to prosperity. 
 
 Seigler Springs 
 Six miles westerly. At the latter, a hotel is kept by 
 Messrs. Snodgrass & Boone, who have excellent 
 accommodations for invalids. The Lakeport and 
 Calistoga stage line, carries passengers from Lower 
 Lake. 
 
 Six miles westerly from Lower Lake is 
 
 Clear Lake, 
 
 The waters of this lake are derived chiefly from 
 
 springs beneath its surface, and along its banks. 
 
 On the north shore, in one of the small bays formed 
 
 by spurs of the mountains jutting into the lake. 
 
THE CLEAR LAKE REGLON. 75 
 
 numerous hot, boiliug springs issue from fissures 
 in the rocky bottom to a distance of two or three 
 hundred yards from the shore, and spreading along 
 it to twice that distance. The bather can here 
 choose his own temperature. In the centre of ^the 
 lake, where the water is seventy-five feet deep, gas 
 bubbles agitate the surface over an area of hundreds 
 of acres, indicating the existence of hot springs at 
 the bottom. Some of these springs are of pure 
 water; others strongly impregnated with mineral 
 substances. The whole region round about abounds 
 in hot and mineral springs, and the aspect of the 
 country leads the observer irresistibly to the llfelief 
 that volcanic fires have been, and still are, at work 
 at no great depth beneath the surface. Indeed, 
 the basin of the lake seems to have been formed by 
 the sinking of the bottom to its present dej)th, as if 
 by the sudden breaking in of a crust, leaving pre- 
 cipitous, banks, with fifty or sixty feet of water, 
 save in a few places, within a fevv^ yards from the 
 shore. 
 
 It is on the eastern slope of the coast mountains, 
 and from twelve hundred to fourteen hundred feet 
 above the level of the ocean. The length of the 
 lake fro]^ the outlet of Cache Creek is twenty-five 
 miles, and the breadth is constantly varying at 
 difi'erent points. For the first tvfelve miles it is from 
 one to three miles, when the mountains on oj^posite 
 sides ai^proach each other, naiTowing it to less than 
 
76 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 half a mile. Beyond, the shores recede, and form 
 a basin nearly circular, twelve miles in diameter. 
 This narrow strait is the division between the 
 "upper" and "lower" lakes. 
 
 The lake contains several small islands, among 
 which are Coj^empo and Alempo ; the former the 
 site of an Indian village, and the latter, containing 
 about thii'ty acres, the residence of Salvador, the 
 chief of the Lake Indians. On the north shore, 
 the mountains jut down almost directly into the lake, 
 throughout nearly its entire length, scarcely afford- 
 ing a footpath. The rocky line is broken only by 
 a fcT^ little vallej^s, the largest of which, "Lone 
 Valley," contains only fifty acres. On the south 
 side • is situated the extensive plain called ' ' Big- 
 Valley," bounded on the south by .the mountain 
 ridge that divides it from the waters of the Pluton 
 river. Here the shores are shelving and bordered 
 by a growth of tule. The average depth of the 
 lake is said to be thirty-five feet. 
 
 From Lower Lake to Manning Lake is five miles; 
 to Kelseyville, is sixteen miles ; to Lakeport, 
 twenty -five miles. 
 
 Kelseyville 
 
 Is a small town uj)on the bordei-s of Kelsey creek, 
 named after Andrew Kelsey, an early settler, who 
 was murdered by the Indians in 1852. His death 
 was avenged shortly after by a detachment of U. S. 
 
THE CLEAR LAKE REGION. 
 
 troops, wlio attacked and severely punished the 
 Indians in a great battle upon the island of 
 Alempo. At Kelseyville is a gas-producing hill. 
 By. sinking a spade in the earth, and applying a 
 lighted match over the spot, the gas is ignited, and 
 burns from one to five minutes. A hole was once 
 dug seven feet, and a pipe put in, from which the 
 gas burned for six weeks, and was then put out. 
 Uncle Sam. 
 Fifteen miles from Lakeport is Mount Uncle 
 Sam (called Co-noke-ti by the Indians). It is two 
 thousand five hundred feet high, and on the side 
 fronting the lake nearly perpendicular. It presents 
 a remarkable columnar aj)pearance from a distance, 
 being composed of sandstone strata, upheaved to a 
 vertical position. At its base are vast masses of 
 obsidian, or black volcanic glass, and a large area 
 over which the road passes, is covered with frag- 
 ments of this 'material, which rings under the 
 horses' feet as we pass. At another point are 
 enormous heaps of pumice-stone, in blocks man}' 
 cubic yards in size, piled up in wild confusion. 
 On the lower lake is a bluff of this stone. Huge 
 masses tumbling down into the water, float off like 
 corks. Soda Bay is at the base of Uncle Sam. 
 Innumerable soda springs here bubble up from 
 the lake and from the shore. The water is said to 
 be highly impregnated with soda, and stronger 
 than any in market. 
 
78 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 Lakeport, 
 
 The county seat of Lake Count}^, is a town of four 
 hundred inhabitants, situated near the shore of the 
 lake in Big Valley. Board at the Lakeport Hotel, 
 S. V. ChaiDman, proprietor, $2 per day, $7 per 
 week. One newspaper, the Avalanche, is published 
 here. This is a pleasant resort for visitors in search 
 of health or pleasure. Boating, fishing, and shoot- 
 ing can be enjoyed here to any extent. The hunt- 
 ing season for bucks commences about the twentieth 
 of June, but the does should not be killed until the 
 first of July, the fawais not being able to take care 
 of themselves before that time. Squirrels, hares, 
 quail, ducks, geese, grouse, deer, grizzly, black and 
 cinnamon bears, panthers, wild cats, foxes and 
 raccoons are to be found in the mountains and foot- 
 hills, and fish of many varieties abound in the 
 lake. Boats per day, 50 cts. to $1; with an oars- 
 man, - $2 to $5 per day. Bartlett Slprings are 
 twenty-five miles northeast, across the lake. There 
 are stage lines from Lakeport to Cloverdale, XJkiah, 
 and Upper Lake. 
 
 Mendocino County 
 
 Is bounded on the w^est by the Pacific ocean, south 
 by Sonoma, north b}^ Humboldt and Trinity, and 
 east by Colusa and Lake counties. The area is 
 about forty by eighty miles, and its coast line over 
 
MENDOCINO COUNTY. 79 
 
 one liundrecl miles. Of its 2,000,000 acres, about 
 900,000 are fit for cultivation. Two parallel ranges 
 of the coast mountains extend north and south 
 through the county. The intervening chains of 
 valleys are very fertile, capable of producing all the 
 cereals and fruits. With the exception of a strip 
 from one to three miles wide, bordering directly 
 upon the coast, which is excellent agricultural land, 
 peculiarly adapted for the production of root crops, 
 the entire region between the mountains and the 
 Pacific, from fifteen to thirty miles wide, is a dense 
 forest of redwood, and the principal industry of the 
 inhabitants is the production of lumber. 
 
 The valleys consist of rich agricultural land, but 
 the country being comj^aratively unsettled, and ac- 
 cess to markets difficult, from the want of good 
 roads, they are chiefly used as a stock range. The 
 climate being moist and equable, the grass is green 
 throughout the year. The whole county is well 
 watered and timbered. Eel River and Russian River 
 are the two principal streams. This county abounds 
 in game of all kinds, and the streams among the 
 mountains abound in fish. For valuable informa- 
 tion in regard to- this county, we* are indebted to 
 Dr. W. G-. Alban, of Ukiah. 
 
 There are two routes to Mendocino. One from 
 Healdsburg in Sonoma County ; the other from 
 Lakeport, the county seat of Lake County. 
 
8o BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 From Lakeport to Ukiah. 
 A line of stages runs between Lakeport and 
 Ukiah, making tri-weekly trips from eacli place, 
 starting in tlie morning. Distance, thirty miles. 
 Fare, $4.00. 
 
 Scott Valley 
 Is two and a half miles from L5-keport, on the road 
 to Ukiah. It is five by ten miles in extent, and 
 very fertile. White oaks grow here of remarkable 
 dimensions. Trees are not unfrequently found six 
 or seven feet in diameter, perfectly straight, and 
 free from branches to the height of sixty feet. 
 These oaks may be split with the same facility as 
 redwood, and were extensively used before the in- 
 troduction of saw mills, for the roofing and siding 
 of buildings. Two or three "cuts" from one of 
 these trees have sufficed to build a fair sized settler's 
 house, with fences and outbuildings. 
 
 The Blue Lakes 
 
 Are situated twelve miles from Lakeport, on the 
 stage road to Ukiah. There are two separate lakes, 
 about one fourth of a mile apai-t, situated in a' 
 canon between tjro steep and lofty mountains. The 
 two lakes are, together, about six miles long, and 
 about a quarter of a mile wide. The water is pure, 
 blue and cold. No bottom has ever been found. 
 
 Proceeding across the mountains dividing Scott 
 and Big Valley from the Eussian Eiver Valley, and 
 following the latter northwestwardly, we arrive at 
 
UKIAH CITY, 
 
 Ukiah City, 
 
 The county seat of Mendocino County. It is situat- 
 ed in the centre of the beautiful valley of the Yok- 
 ayo, (or Ukiah) on the head waters of the Eussian 
 River, and on the inland mail route from San Fran- 
 cisco to Humboldt and the north. It is about one 
 hundred and twenty miles from San Francisco, and 
 thirt^^-one miles above Cloverdale. Yokayo" Valley 
 contains about thirty thousand acres, most of which is 
 of unsurx^assed fertility. The town Avas first settled 
 in 1856, and has prospered with the growth of the 
 surrounding country, of which it is the trading cen- 
 tre. The county buildings, public halls, schools 
 and churches, are creditable to the place, and it 
 contains many neat private residences. There is 
 one newspaper published here, the Mendocino Dem- 
 ocrat. Population, eight hundred. Three miles east 
 from Ukiah, is a mineral spring, strongly impreg- 
 nated with iron. and sulphur. Twelve miles north- 
 westerly is a warm sulphur spring, and in Bell 
 Valley, fifteen miles southwesterly, a fine soda 
 spring, said to be better than that of Napa. The 
 hills, in all directions, abound in mineral springs 
 of various medicinal properties. Game of all kinds 
 is abundant in the neighborhood. Travelers desir- 
 ing to make excursions in other parts of the county, 
 will find excellent teams at the livery stable of J. P. 
 Smith. Stages leave Ukiah and connect with the 
 cars, to reach San Francisco the same day. 
 
82 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 Sanel 
 
 Is fourteen miles south from Ukiali and seventeen 
 north of Cloverdale, in Feliz or Sanel Valley, 
 through which the Russian River flows. It is 
 somewhat smaller than Yokaya Valley, but equally 
 fertile. Good bottom lands are now sold here at 
 from $12 to $20 per acre. Game is plenty in the 
 vicinity. There are soda springs not far from the 
 place. Living is cheap here. At the Sanel House 
 board is $1 per day or $5 per week. The stage 
 stoj)S here for dinner. 
 
 The Tour, via Santa Rosa. 
 
 Between Napa Valley and the ocean lies a succes- 
 sion of valleys through which the North Pacific Rail- 
 way is nearly completed to Cloverdale, its terminus, 
 twelve miles from the Geysers. First in order from 
 San Francisco is Petaluma Valley, through which 
 the road runs about ten miles, .thence through 
 Santa Rosa Valley about the same distance into 
 Russian River Valley. Towards the east are Sono- 
 ma and Guillico's Valleys, noted for extensive vine- 
 yards. Across the Golden Gate, opposite San 
 Francisco, is Marin County, a mountainous grazing 
 region, with intervening valleys and mesa lands, 
 well adapted to dairy and agricultural purposes. 
 The entire region is well watered and timbered, 
 excepting the valleys, which like most others in 
 middle California, are sparsely dotted with oaks. 
 
THE TOUR, via SANTA ROSA. 83 
 
 There is much similarity in the general aspect of 
 Petaluma, Santa Kosa and Russian valleys. To the 
 €yes they appear to be perfectly level, and when 
 cultivation has not modified their surfaces, all have 
 the appearance of vast parks of oak, walled in by 
 mountains and crossed at intervals by streams. 
 They are separated only by low hills . Petaluma Val- 
 ley has considerable flat iide land along the creek 
 which traverses it. Santa Rosa Valley is almost en- 
 tirely agricultural land, and Russian River Valley, 
 the largest of the three, is distinguished by the wide 
 strip of bottom lands along the river, noted for their 
 l^rolific yield of corn. 
 
 In the region of which we have sjDoken are many 
 pleasant places of public resort, and several towns 
 of importance. Four miles from the city in Marin 
 county, Saucelito is a favorite place for excursions. 
 It is accessible by steam ferry daily from Meiggs' 
 wharf. Above it, fourteen miles from the city, is 
 the pleasant town of San Rafael, sheltered from all 
 winds, having excellent hotel accommodations and 
 a charming climate. It is accessible by the steam 
 ferry boat, Contra Costa, making three trips daily 
 (Sundays excepted) to San Quentin Point, and 
 thence by railroad three and a half miles to the 
 town. Further nofth, on a navigable creek empty- 
 ing into San Pablo Bay, is the thriving city of Pet- 
 aluma, and beyond it to the north are the prosi3er- 
 ous towns of Santa Rosa, Sonoma, Healdsburg and 
 
84 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 Cloverclale, all connected Avitli eacli otlier b}" stage 
 or by rail, and each tlie centre of numerous stage 
 lines penetrating the countr}^ in all directions, and 
 bringing the towns on the coast into close connec- 
 tion with those on the bay and with San Francisco, 
 The steamer Petaluma leave San Francisco from 
 Pacific street wharf, daily at two p. m. , for Petaluma 
 via Lakeville, connecting at Lakeville with stages 
 for Sonoma. Stages for Sonoma, also connect at 
 Donahue with the cars of the North Pacific Railway 
 and steamer New World. The " Sacramento" also 
 runs as a freight aild passenger boat to Petaluma, 
 leaving Broadway wharf at 4:30 p. m., and on Tues- 
 days, Thursdays and Saturdays at 10 a. m. The 
 Amelia leaves same wharf for Mare Island, Vallejo, 
 Benicia, Martinez and Suisun. 
 
 San Quentin Point, 
 The landing place of the steam f errj'- boat from San 
 Francisco to San Eafael, is connected with that 
 town by a railway of three and one half miles. At 
 at San Quentin the principal object of interest is 
 the State Prison. The buildings are located half a 
 mile from the landing on a slight elevation, and 
 constitute a conspicuous as well as melancholy ob- 
 ject of contemplation to the traveler in j)assing up 
 and down the bay. The scenery is remarkabty fine 
 in the neighborhood. The buildings are of brick, 
 and situated upon lands belonging to the State. 
 Eight acres are enclosed by a high wall for prison 
 
SAN RAFAEL. 85 
 
 purposes; tlie remainder is devoted to brick making 
 by convict labor. Large quantities of brick liave 
 been sliijDped to San Francisco and other parts of 
 the State. There are about eight hundred convicts 
 confined within the walls, laboring at various trades; 
 that of saddle and harness making being the j)rin- 
 cipal ones. Numerous shops with steam power for 
 various kinds of manufacture, are provided by the 
 State, and the labor of the prisoners is let to con- 
 tractors. There is a hotel and postoffice at this 
 point, and a few other buildings. Taking the cars 
 at the landing, the traveler arrives in a few minutes 
 at the beautiful town of 
 
 Sail Rafael, 
 
 The county seat of Marin, three and a half miles 
 from San Quentin and fourteen from San Francisco. 
 It is situated upon a creek about two miles west of 
 San Pablo Bay, and is completely sheltered from 
 the rough westerly winds by the high mountain 
 range between it and the ocean. The climate is 
 remarkably mild and salubrious. On the north it 
 is also protected by the range of hills which culmi- 
 nate in the grand peak of Tamalpais, two thousand 
 six hundred feet high. Its charming climate and 
 situation, so near the city, have attracted thither 
 many of the business men and wealthy citizens of 
 San Francisco. There are many elegant private 
 residences and gardens, and excellent hotels. The 
 buildino'S of the old mission, established in 1817, 
 
BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 are still used as a Court House. One weekly news- 
 paper, the Marin County Journal, is publislied here. 
 Principal house, the Tamalj^ais Hotel, R. Pardow, 
 proprietor. The accommodations offered by the 
 ' ' Tamalpais " are such as are offered by a city hotel 
 of- the first class. It is fitted throughout with gas 
 and elegantly furnished. Charges the same as in 
 city hotels of its class, $3 per day and $20 per week. 
 An omnibus conveys passengers to and from the 
 depot free of charge. Horses for the ascent of 
 Mount Tamalpais are furnished at the hotel, at a 
 cost of $3 for gentlemen and $4 for ladies. The 
 ascent is made in three hours. The tourist can cast 
 a fly in the trout streams which flow down the 
 mountains, or take a shot at the quail, which are 
 abundant in season, and may perchance meet with 
 deer, of which there are many in the mountain. 
 Stages leave San Rafael for Olema and Petaluma, 
 every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, at 1 p. m. 
 and for Nicasio, on Monday and Saturday ^t 2J 
 P.M. Return trains, connecting with the Contra 
 Costa line, leave San Rafael at 7.45 and 11.15 a. m., 
 and 2.30 p.m. 
 
 Ascent of Mount Tamalpais. 
 
 Saddle horses may be obtained for the ascent of 
 Mount Tamalpais, the summit of which is twelve 
 miles distant, reaching an elevation of two thousand 
 six hundred feet. The ascent is made in about 
 three hours. The stage road is followed for two 
 
OLEMA. 87 
 
 and a half miles to Ross's Landing, where informa- 
 tion may be obtained with regard to the trail. The 
 ascent, though steep and tedious, is not dangerous, 
 and the prospect from the top is magnificent. 
 Eleven miles from San Rafael, on the road to Ole- 
 ma, is the Pioneer paper mill, built in 1856. The 
 buildings are large and substantial. Both steam 
 and the water of Daniel's Creek, upon which the 
 mill is situated, are used for motive power. About 
 forty men are employed, day and night, in the man- 
 ufacture of printing and wrapping paper. Three 
 miles east of the paper mill, is the Pacific Powder 
 Mill, erected in 1866, at a cost of $63,000. The 
 works are scattered over several hundred acres, for 
 greater security against exj^losions. Both steam 
 and water power are employed. Both sporting and 
 blasting j)owder are manufactured ; principally the 
 latter. 
 
 Fifteen miles northwest of San Rafael, is the 
 small but thriving town of 
 
 Olema, 
 
 Situated in a fertile and rich district, producing 
 heavy crops of gi-ain and potatoes, and possessing 
 many fine dairies. The moisture from the ocean 
 keeps the grass green here at all seasons. 
 
 Thirty-five miles northwest of San Rafael, ujDon 
 a level beach, near the entrance of the bay of the 
 same name, is the active and growing town of 
 
88 BA.YCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 Tomales. 
 
 This is a place of about one thousand inhabitants 
 and the shix^ping point for a large portion of the 
 produce of the adjoining country. 
 
 Tex the Geysers, via Santa Rosa, from San Francisco. 
 
 Take the steamer New World at Jackson street 
 wharf, at 8:30 a. m., arriving at Donahue at 11:20 
 A. M., where the Northern Pacific Railwaj^ train 
 awaits passengers. Train arrives at Petaluma at 
 11:50, and at Santa Ptosa at 12:30. 
 
 Passing uj) the bay of San Francisco and into 
 San Pablo bay, the boat enters the estuarj^ of Peta- 
 luma creek, about three quarters of a mile wide, and 
 arrives, after a pleasant sail of two and one half 
 hours, at 
 
 Donahue, 
 
 The southern terminus of the Northern Pacific Rail- 
 road . 
 
 In 1868, the San Francisco and Humboldt Bay 
 Railroad company was organized to build a railroad 
 from Saucelito to Humboldt Bay, \aa Petaluma, 
 Santa Rosa, Healdsburg and Cloverdale. Little 
 was done under this organization except the grading 
 of a few miles of road between Petaluma and Santa 
 Rosa. In 1869 a new company was organized called 
 the San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad Com- 
 pany, to which the San Francisco and Humboldt 
 
DONAHUE. 89 
 
 Bay Eailroad Company deeded all its rights of way, 
 fraiicliises, etc. * 
 
 The newly-organized company actually accom- 
 plished nothing under its then management, until 
 August, 1870, when Peter Donahue bou^iit the 
 stock of the comj^any. Mr. Donahue commenced a 
 vigorous prosecution of the work, about the first of 
 September, 1870, and on the thirty-first day of 
 December, 1870, he had the cars running from 
 Donahue (a new town about six miles south of Peta- 
 luma) to Santa Rosa, a distance of twenty-two and 
 a half miles. In addition to the track laid between 
 those points, a large and substantial wharf has been 
 erected at Donahue, also large car houses, engine 
 houses and commodious workshops. At the present 
 time the road is completed to Mark West, eight 
 miles north of Santa Rosa, and the remainder of 
 the road bed graded to Healdsburg. The distance 
 from San Francisco to Donahue is forty miles, 
 which is run by Mr. Donahue's steamer Sacramento, 
 connecting at the latter point with the cars. 
 
 Mr. Donahue is the only man in California Vv'ho 
 has built so manj^ miles of railroad in such a short 
 time, and paid for it all as he progressed out of his 
 own private means and exclusively with white labor. 
 
 About the middle of last March the California 
 Pacific Railroad Company commenced grading a 
 road from Santa Rosa to Cloverdale by the wa}^ of 
 Healdsburg, thus creating two parallel roads in a 
 
90 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 valley where one was considered ample for the 
 wants of the people. Mutual friends interfered on 
 both sides and the result was a sale of Mr. Dona- 
 hue's road to the California Pacific Railroad Com- 
 pany f©r the sum of $750,000. Thus ceased Mr; 
 Donahue's connection with the road. Mr. Dona- 
 hue is a man of indomitable energ}^, who has been 
 the architect of his own fortune, and to his enter- 
 prise is due, in a large degree, the many public im- 
 provements in San Francisco; for instance the Gas 
 Works, whose founder he was; the street railroads, 
 in which he owns large interests; the steamers, in 
 which he had large interests; and first and above 
 all, the foundry business, which he and his brother 
 established in this city in the days of " '49 and 
 '50." 
 
 In the organization of the San Francisco and 
 North Pacific Railroad Company, Mr. Donahue 
 surrounded himself- with his most intimate personal 
 friends. He w^as President himself, Mr. Edward 
 Martin was Treasurer, and Mr. James O'Neill was 
 Secretary. 
 
 Stages connect at Donahue with Sonoma, fare, 
 $1.50. A mile above is a landing called Lakeville, 
 also connected by stage line with Sonoma. Entering 
 the cars at Donahue, and traveling over almost a 
 dead level, the traveler, in thii'ty minutes, reaches 
 the city of 
 
PETALUMA. 91 
 
 Petaluma. 
 
 A well-built town of 5,000 inhabitants. It was 
 settled in 1853 and incorporated in 1858. It is sit- 
 uated at the head of navigation upon lietaluma 
 creek, the upper portion of which is only navigable 
 at some seasons of the year, at high water, by 
 steamers and sail vessels of one. hundred tons bur- 
 den. The Petaluma theatre, sixty by one hundred 
 feet, is elegantly finished and fitted up with scenery, 
 at an expense of $37,000. The American Hotel, 
 Mr. Wm. Ordway, owner and proprietor, is a three- 
 story fire and earthquake-proof building, with sixty- 
 five rooms, fifteen suits of rooms, lighted with gas, 
 marble water basins, and furnished throughout in 
 a high style of elegance. Petaluma has five public 
 and five private schools, all of a high order. The 
 public schools are under the special control of J. 
 W. Anderson as Principal, aided by nine assistant 
 teachers. The private^ schot)ls have forty pupils 
 each, on an average, and are creditably conducted. 
 One of these, St. Vincent's Seminary, is a Catholic 
 institution, under the patronage of the Sisters of 
 Charity. It has also seven commodious churches, 
 four Masonic and two Odd Fellows' lodges ; an 
 efficient fire department, with three engines, and 
 one hook-and-ladder company; gas, and water 
 works. Two weekly and one daily newspapers are 
 published here. Petaluma is the natui'al outlet and 
 
92 
 
 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 place of trade for an extensive agricultural region, 
 comprising nearly the wliole of Sonoma, and por- 
 tions of Liake; Marin, and Mendocino counties. It 
 lias a large and thriving trade, shipping a heav^^ 
 amounii of produce to San Francisco, and supply- 
 ing merchandise to a fertile and extensive district. 
 Stages leave for Bloomfield daily, at 12:30 p. m. ; 
 for Bodega and Duncan's Mills, tri-weekly. Dis- 
 tance to Bloomfield, fifteen miles, fare, $1.50 ; 
 Bodega, twent3^-five miles, fare, $2.50 ; Duncan's 
 Mills, forty miles, fare, $4.00. Leave Duncan's 
 Mills Wednesday and Sunday mornings for Point 
 Arenas, L. W. Miller, proprietor. Stages for Two 
 Eock and Tomales start every day, (Sundays ex- 
 cepted) at 12:30 p. m. Fare to Two Eock, $1.00 ; 
 to Tomales, sixteen miles, $1.50; Wm. Fairbanks, 
 proprietor. Stages for San Eafael, twenty-two 
 miles distant, depart Mondays, Wednesda^ys and 
 Fridays, at 7 a.m.; fare, $2,00; Charles Tann, 
 proprietor. Stages leave for Nicasio "Wednesdays 
 and Fridays, at 2 p. m. ; distance sixteen miles ; 
 fare, $1.50. For Whitman's Store, Tuesdaj^s 
 Thursdays, and Saturdays ; distance, eighteen 
 miles ; fare, $1.50 ; F. M. Lewis, proprietor. 
 Principal hotel, the American, by Mr. Wm. Ord- 
 way ; charges, $2.00 per day. Free carriage to 
 and from the cars. 
 
 Santa Rosa Valley 
 Extends from Mark West creek to Petaluma valley, 
 
SANTA ROSA VALLEY. 93 
 
 and is about twelve miles wide. In its centre, upon 
 a creek of the same name, is the T)leasant and thriv- 
 ing town of Santa Eosa, the counts-seat of Sonoma 
 county, about twenty miles northerly from Sonoma, 
 sixteen miles from Healdsburg,.and the same dis- 
 tance from Petaluma. It was laid off in 1853, and 
 is now the second town in the county. It was in- 
 cori)orated in 1868, and now numbers 2,000 inhab- 
 itants. Three hundred children attend its j^ublic 
 schools, and two private, schools receive a good 
 support. There are seven churches, the usual 
 county buildings, a fire-proof hall of records, and 
 one weekly newspaper. The Methodist college has 
 recently been transferred from Yacaville to Santa 
 Rosa. From the cupola of the Kessing hotel is one 
 of the fairest views that the eye ever rested upon. 
 St. Helena looms up grandly to the northeast. Gey- 
 ser Peak to the northwest, and the valley stretches 
 away in the distance to Petaluma. The railroad 
 line runs north with very slight grading, for twelve 
 miles in an air line, without a curve, and will fol- 
 low Eussian river eighteen miles to Cloverdale. 
 Six miles east is Guillico's valley, leading into So- 
 noma valle}^ Four miles east are the Moyacamas 
 mountains, which separate Napa and Sonoma coun- 
 ties, and through which a practicable road has been 
 comp)leted to Calistoga. Stage lines i-un in all di- 
 rections from Santa Eosa, connecting with the 
 coast, and with all parts of the county, and with 
 
94 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 tliose adjacent. Lines run regularly to tlie follow- 
 ing points : To Mark West, six miles north ; to 
 Windsor, ten miles ; to 'Healdsburg, sixteen miles ; 
 to Sonoma, sixteen miles ; Napa, twenty-eight 
 miles ; to Sebastoi)ol, seven miles ; Feuston, four- 
 teen miles; Bodega Corners, seventeen miles; Bo- 
 dega Bay, twenty miles ; Duncan's Mill, at the 
 mouth of Russian river, twent^^-five miles ; Fort 
 Ross, thirty-seven miles ; Timber Cove, fort}^ miles ; 
 Salt Point, thirty-two miles ; Fisk's Mill, fifty miles ; 
 Fisherman's Ba}^, forty-four miles ; and to the 
 mouth of the Walhalla, fifty-six miles. The Wal- 
 halla runs north and empties into the Pacific at the 
 boundar}" between Sonoma and Mendocino coun- 
 ties. From the mouth of Russian river the ocean 
 is in sight most of the time. The road is rough, 
 but the scenery magnificent. 
 
 From Sebasto2:»ol to Bloomfield is seven miles ; 
 thence to Valley Ford, four miles ; and thence, pass- 
 ing through Big valley to Tomales bay, six miles. 
 The road from Bloomfield passes through a beauti- 
 ful and fertile country, free from timber. Tomales 
 bay is in Marin county, and supplies Santa Rosa 
 with fish, &c. 
 
 The principal public house at Santa Rosa, is the 
 Kessing hotel, F. H. Coe, proprietor. Board, $2.00 
 per day. Stages to and from station, twenty-five 
 cents. 
 
 Ten miles from Santa Rosa is the small town of 
 
HEALDSBURG. 95 
 
 Windsor, 
 
 a trading centre for a large farming community in 
 tlie neigliborhood. 
 
 Healdsburg 
 
 Is very beautifully situated in the midst of the ex- 
 tensive valley of Eussian river. It is built upon a 
 portion of the '' Fitch, or Sotoyoma ranch," about 
 a mile west of the river, and two miles above the 
 mouth of Dr}^ creek. It was first settled by Har- 
 mon Heald, and from him derives its name. He 
 established a trading post here in 1851, and laid off 
 the towai. The situation is unsurpassed for beauty, 
 the whole town being so completely embowered in 
 a grove of majestic oaks and madronas, that its po- 
 sition, when approaching it from either direction, 
 cannot be distinguished until the traveler is fairly 
 within the limits of the town. It is eighty miles 
 from San Francisco, and the principal resources of 
 the place are derived from farming. The corn- 
 lands in the Eussian river bottoms are of unrivaled 
 fertilit}^, and the area suitable for other cereals, as 
 w^eil as for orchards, vineyards and pasturage, is 
 very extensive. Gold was discovered in the spring 
 of 1854, on Dry creek, two miles south of the town, 
 but not sufficient to pay for worldng at the high 
 ^ price of labor that then prevailed. Healdsburg has 
 one public school, a grammar school and an acad- 
 emy, eight churches, a Masonic, Odd Fellows', and 
 
96 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 Good Templars' lodge, and one newspaper. There 
 are three saw-mills within eight miles of town ; also 
 a flour-mill in the tow^n and another three miles 
 distant. The present population is rtbout two 
 thousand. Healdsburg is twenty miles from the 
 ocean, the same distance from the Geysers, and 
 fourteen from Skagg's Springs. The scenery on 
 the route to the two latter places, is wild and pic- 
 turesque in the highest degree. Three miles south 
 of Healdsburg are the famous Geyser soda sj)rings ; 
 also a Sirring of Seltzer water not surpassed by any 
 in the State. The waters have excellent medical 
 qualities, and are slightly aj^erient. The drive to 
 the spring is delightful. The Ge3^sers, twenty 
 miles distant, north from Healdsburg; and Foss 
 station, eight miles northeast. Game is abundant 
 in the season in the vicinity of the town. Princi- 
 pal hotel, Sotoyama House ; B. C. Wright, propri- 
 etor. .Board, $2,00 per day, and from $10.00 to 
 $12.00 per week. Stages leave daily for Santa 
 Eosa, Cloverdale, Geyser Springs and Skaggs' 
 Springs. Leave for Skaggs' Springs at 7 a. m., 
 arrive at 9, and returning leave at 3 p. m., arriving 
 at Healdsburg M 5 p. m. 
 
 Skaggs' Hot Springs 
 
 Are celebrated for remarkable medical properties, 
 and are strongly impregnated with sulphur, iron, 
 magnesia, borax, and soda. The temperature of 
 
CLOVERDALE. 97 
 
 the water is from 120° to 140°. A fine hotel and 
 separate cottages furnish ample accommodations 
 for tourists or permanent guests. B. Frank Tuck- 
 er, proprietor. 
 
 [ For particulars of the route from Healdsburg 
 to the Geysers, see page 53.] 
 
 Cloverdale 
 
 Is a pleasant place on its own account, and besides, 
 is surrounded by many attractions. It is a small 
 but thriving inland village, situated near the -head 
 of the valley of Kussian river, in the south part of 
 Sonoma county, about four miles from the line of 
 Mendocino, and forty-eight miles north from Peta- 
 luma. The scenery surrounding it can hardly be 
 suri^assed. On the east, north and west, the 
 mountains form almost an amphitheatre, while to 
 the south is a magnificent view of the valley. This 
 place has at present, connection with Healdsburg 
 by stage ; also with the Clear Lake region. There 
 will, however, shortly be railroad communication via 
 the road passing through Healdsburg, Santa Rosa, 
 and Petaluma. Eight miles noi-th, on the TJkiah 
 road, at the toll-gate, is a fine soda sj)ring, said to 
 be better and stronger than the Napa. Another 
 fine soda spring is found near the farm of Mr John 
 Thompson, three miles south, and still another 
 three miles east, near the line of the projected road 
 to the Geysers. Twelve miles to the southwest is 
 
98 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 Skaggs' Si^rings. There is a good stage-road to 
 Lakeport. Sixteen miles from Cloverdale, on the 
 summit of the mountains, is a most magnificent 
 view of Clear Lake. Sulphur creek, on which the 
 Gej^sers are situated, empties into Eussian river at 
 this place. The Geysers are twelve miles south- 
 east, only accessible by a trail. This place is built 
 upon a SjDanish grant, called after an Indian chief 
 who still resides there : , Rincon de Mus^alacon. 
 Gold and copper have been found in small quanti- 
 ties in the vicinity, and mining for gold is still con- 
 tinued. Cloverdale is in a very fertile region, pe- 
 culiarly adapted to grape culture. There is excel- 
 lent trout fishing, and abundant small game and 
 deer in the xioimij. There are two good hotels. 
 The Cloverdale hotel, Thomas S. Colvin, proprie- 
 tor, is the principal house. Charges, $2.00 per 
 day, $8.00 per week. Stages leave Cloverdale for 
 Mendocino city on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sat- 
 urdays, at 6 A. M., and starting at the same hour 
 return on the alternate days. Distance, seventy- 
 five miles; fare, $8.00. Proprietors, Jesse D. Carr 
 & Co. The road sttirts out over a fine grade, and 
 through beautiful scenery. The Boonvill^ post- 
 office, in Anderson valley, is thirty-two miles. The 
 valley is twenty miles long, heavily timbered on the 
 south side with redwood, and on the north with 
 oak. Following the Novarra river about twenty 
 miles, the road leaves it, ascending the ridge of the 
 
MENDOCINO. 99 
 
 Novan-a mountains, and thence tlirongli a dense 
 forest of redwood, fir, and s]3iiice, to Novarra, 
 which lies upon the ocean, ten miles south of Men- 
 docino. The Novarra Hotel is a good house, kept 
 by Jerome W. Moore, one of the owners of the 
 stage line. "jFrom Novarra the road proceeds along 
 the ocean a mile and a half to Salmon creek, a 
 great point for the shipment of railroad ties. One 
 mile further on, the Albion mills, owned by Mc- 
 Pherson & Wetherbee, the first saw-mills in the 
 State, employing two hundred men. Five miles 
 further on is Little river, a town of about three 
 hundred inhabitants, with a good harbor, and a 
 shipping point for lumber; and two and a half 
 miles further, the traveler finds himself at 
 
 Mendocino. 
 
 This is one of the largest towns in the county, 
 containing seven hundred inhabitants. One news- 
 paper is published here, weekly, the Indeijendent 
 Dispatch. An immense lumber trade is carried on 
 here with San Francisco, one hundred and thirt^^. 
 two miles southward. From this point, the traveler 
 can return, via Cloverdale, Lakeport, Calistoga and 
 Vallejo; or via Healdsburg, Santa Rosa, Petaluma 
 and Donahue, to San Francisco. 
 
BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 Route via Sonoma Valley/. 
 
 Besides the railroad route to Santa Eosa, stage lines 
 connect with the steamer at Lakeville, and with the 
 cars at Donahue, and at Napa City, J:wice a day, 
 for Sonoma, from which place passengers are con- 
 veyed by a daily line to Santa Eosa. Taking the 
 cars at Vallejo, for Napa City, the traveler reaches 
 Sonoma, twelve miles distant, in two hours. Fare, 
 $1.00. If stopping at Napa over night, he will find 
 the Napa Hotel, John S. Hogan, proprietor, an ex- 
 cellent house, with ample accommodations. Leav- 
 ing Napa Valley, he crosses Carneros and Haichica 
 valleys, into the large valley of Sonoma. In the 
 most beautiful part of the valley, and upon a creek 
 of the same name, about three miles from the Em- 
 barcadero at its mouth, and surrounded with or- 
 chards and vineyards, he will reach the city of 
 
 . Sonoma, 
 
 The oldest town on the north side of the Bay of 
 San Francisco. It was laid out in 1835, by Gene- 
 ral Vallejo, as a Pueblo, by order of the Mexican 
 Government. A missionar}' station (the last in the 
 State) was established at this i^lace in 1820, biit 
 shortly afterwards shared the general fate of all the 
 Missions after the revolution of 1822, which liber- 
 ated Mexico from Sp'inish domination. It lingered 
 a short time after sc'cuiarization was decreed, but 
 
SONOMA. 
 
 finally succumbed. The town was, at the time of 
 the American conquest, one of the most important 
 in the State, and while San Francisco was onty a 
 heap of sandhills, figured as the Headquarters of 
 the Northern Military Department of California. 
 As a town, it has made little or no progress. In- 
 deed, it may be regarded, in a business point of 
 view, as stationary. It is just the same old Mexi- 
 can town, in apj)earance, that it was in 1846. A 
 few good buildings have been erected b}^ Ameri- 
 cans, but as many adobe structures have gone to 
 decay. The greatest portion of the old Mission 
 building, a very extensive structure of adobe, cov- 
 ered with red tiles, has disappeared, only one angle, 
 which was used as a church, has been preserved by 
 extensive repairs. 
 
 The town consists, mainly, of one and two story 
 adobe buildings, built around a plaza, in the old 
 Spanish style. It has, however, a deep historic in- 
 terest attached to it, from events w^hich transjDired 
 here under Spanish and Mexican rule. It was here, 
 too, that the ominous " Bear Flag " was first raised, 
 and the first steps taken to inaugurate a new gov- 
 ernment for California. It was also for a long time 
 the station of a portion of Stevenson's California 
 Regiment, and will always be visited by those who 
 love to contemplate the old landmarks, which re- 
 call the Past and its vivid contrast with the Present. 
 
 The site of the town is one of the most beautiful 
 6 
 
I02 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 in the State, being upon a level and fertile plain, at 
 the foot of the j)icturesqiie Moyacamas mountains. 
 In approaching the old " city " of Sonoma from any 
 direction, the traveler is struck with the magnifi- 
 cence of the surrounding scenery, and the fertility 
 of the country. The soil seems specially adapted 
 to fruit and grape culture. The number of vines 
 now in cultivation, is about four millions, and Son- 
 oma stands first among the wine-producing coun- 
 ties of the State. Many of the brands produced 
 are of high excellence, and growing constantly in 
 popular appreciation. 
 
 Half a mile east from the Plaza, at the foot of a 
 hill, is a copious and beautiful s]3ring, near which a 
 powerful Indian chief once made his residence. 
 This spring, called by the Indians Gho-koo-yem, 
 or " Spring in the hill-side," now sujiplies a fish- 
 pond and fountain in the extensive and magnificent 
 grounds of General Vallejo's residence. These 
 grounds are well worth a visit. There are found 
 every variety of grapes and fruit in great profusion; 
 the orange and the olive growing side by side with 
 the pear and the apple. Here, General Vallejo, 
 now in his sixty-fourth year, reposes from the ardu- 
 ous and useful labors of his past life, and enjoys 
 the profound respect of a new generation. Gene- 
 ral Vallejo J) rides himself upon being a native of 
 California. Descended from the sangre azul of an 
 old Castilian family, he was born in Monterey in 
 
SONOMA. 103 
 
 1808, and, at an early age, distinguished himself by 
 his intelligence and benevolent disposition. Even 
 before the American occupation, he possessed a val- 
 uable library, and a very brief conversation will 
 show that he has made a diligent use of it. To the 
 charm of great natural urbanity of manner he adds 
 that of an extended acquaintance with the world 
 and with general literature. Even while a Mexican 
 official, he was ever favorable to the government of 
 the United States, and it- was greatly owing to his 
 influence that California became a State of the Union, 
 instead of falling into the hands of England or 
 France. Since the conquest, he has served in many 
 honorable positions under our State Government, 
 and in all acquitted himself with distinguished abili- 
 ty. As a soldier, a statesman, and a polished gen- 
 tleman, he commands, and universally receives, the 
 respect of all. 
 
 From Sonoma the traveler proceeds through So- 
 noma and Guillicos valleys, sixteen miles, to Santa 
 Rosa, the county seat. [For description of Santa 
 Rosa, see page 93.] 
 
a 
 
 I 
 
Tourist's Complete Guide 
 
 San Francisco, Suburbs and Vicinity; 
 
 With Special Trips and Short Excursions in and 
 
 ABOUT THE CiTY. 
 
 I. CITY PKOPER. 
 
 Sketch op the City — Historical, Topographical, General 
 Plan - - 111-122 
 
 Approaches to the City — From tlie east, by boat; from 
 the south, by rail; from the ocean, by steamship, 123-129 
 
 Conveyances — Hacks, Coaches, Cars, Porters, Legal Eates, 
 Caution, Baggage and Package ExjDress, - - 129-132 
 
 Hotels — Grand, Occidental, Cosmopolitan, Lick House, 
 Brooklyn, Kuss House, American Exchange, Morton 
 House, International, Hotel Gailhard, "What Cheer, 
 (males only), - ' 132-137 
 
 Lodging Houses — Nucleus, Clarendon, . _ - 137 
 
 Restaueants — Saulman's, Swain's, Job's, Martin's, Ler- 
 mitte's, . . - 137-138 
 
io6 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 Baths — Fresh, Salt, Turkish, Kussian, Koman, Steam and 
 Vapor, 138 
 
 Places of Amusement — California, Metropolitan, Alham- 
 bra, Maguire's, and Chinese Theatres; Museums, Melo- 2 
 deons, Dance Halls, and Beer Cellars, - - . 138-140 
 
 Hails — Piatt's, Union, Pacific, Mercantile Library, Me- 
 chanic's Institute, Y. M. C. A., Mozart, Dashaway, 141-143 
 
 Billiards, Bowling Saloons and Shooting Galleries, 143-144 
 
 Gymnasiums— Olympic Club, Y. M. C. A., German Turn 
 Verein, Skating Einks, Base Ball Ground, - 144-146 
 
 Gardens — Woodward's, City, - - - - 146-156 
 Menageries — Woodward's Zoological Grounds, North 
 Beach, 156 
 
 Squares and Parks — Plaza, (Portsmouth Square). Wash- 
 ington Square, South Park, 157 
 
 Promenades Montgomery Street, Kearny Street Califor- 
 nia Street. Best Time, ----- 157-160 
 
 Drives — Cliff House Koad, Ocean House Koad, Bay View, 
 New Ocean Koad, Best Time, - - - - 161-164 
 
 Libraries and Kbading Kooms — Mercantile, Mechanic's 
 Institute, Odd Fellow's, Pioneers, Y. M. C. A., What 
 Cheer, Woodward's Gardens, 154 
 
 Public Buildings — Federal: Post Office, Custom House, 
 Old Mint, Nev>^ Mint, Marine Hospital. City and County: 
 Old City Hall, New City Hall, Jail, Almshouse, Indus- 
 trial School, Engine Houses, Engines, Corporation and 
 Society Buildings: Pioneer's, Merchant's Exchange, Bank 
 of California, Mercantile Library Building, Mechanic's 
 Institute, Masonic Temple, Odd Fellow's Hall, Y. M. C. A. 
 Building, Mechanics' PaviHon, - - - 164-173 
 
SAA' FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 107 
 
 Business Buildings and Blocks— Alta California Bnildiug, 
 Bancroft's, Donolioe, Kelly & Co., Harpending's Block, 
 Mnrpliy, Grant «fe Co., Tobin, Dixon & Davisson, Tread- 
 well's, Tucker's, Wells, Fargo & C.'s Building, White * 
 House, - - - 173-174 
 
 Manufactoeies — Kimball Car and Carriage Factory, Paci- 
 fic Eolling Mills, Mission Woolen Mills, Foundries and 
 Iron Works, Locomotives, Boilers, Mining Machinery, 
 Shot Tower and Lead Works, Sugar Kefinery, Glass 
 Works, Ship Yards, ------ 175-177 
 
 Chueches — Baptist, Congregational, Episcopal, Jewish, 
 Methodist, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic, Sweden- 
 borgian. Unitarian, Chinese Mission House, Mariner's 
 Church, Old Mission Church, - - - - 177-183 
 
 Hospitals and Asylums — City and County, French, Ger- 
 man, Protestant Orphan, Eoman Catholic Orphan, 183-185 
 
 Colleges — California Business University, City College, 
 St. Ignatius', St. Mary's, Toland Medical, - 185-180 
 
 School Buildings — Denman, Girl's High, Lincoln, Val- 
 encia Street, 187-188 
 
 Feinting, Lithographing, Binding, and Blank Book Manu- 
 facturing EstabHshment, 188-190 
 
 Peivate Residences — Davis', Eldridges, Laidley's, La- 
 tham's, Bancroft's, Otis', Parrott's, Tallant's, Taylor's, 
 Tobin's, --------- 190 
 
 Points of Obseevation — Telegraph Hill, Russian Hill, 
 Clay Street Hill, California Street Hill, Rincon Hill, 
 Lone Mountain, Twin Peaks, Bernal Heights, U. S. 
 Observatory. Views from each, - - . 190-199 
 
io8. BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 How TO Get About — Horse Car Lines, Eoutes, Distances, 
 Times, Fares, Buggies, Carriages, Coaches and Saddle 
 Horses; qualities of, and charges for. Hacks, with rates 
 of hire, - 200-203 
 
 II. SUBURBS AND VICINITY. 
 
 Commencing at the foot of Market street, thence southward 
 along or near the water front, continuing around the en- 
 tire city and returning to the point of starting. Also, 
 mentioning more distant points, visible to the spectator 
 looking bej'ond the suburbs. 
 
 Lumber Yards; AVharves and Merchant Fleet; California 
 and Oregon S. S. Co.'s Wharves and Ships ; Black Dia- 
 mond Coal Co.'s Pier; Rincon Point; IT. S. Marine Hos- 
 pital ; P. M. S. S. Co.'s Piers, Docks, Sheds and Ships ; 
 Gas Works : C. P. E. R. Co,'s Freight Pier, Depot and 
 Boat ; Mission Bay; Mission Eock ; U. S. Ship Anchor- 
 age ; Steamboat Reserves ; Long Bridge ; Yacht Club 
 and Boat-house, with Yachts ; Potrero ; Glass Works ; 
 Pacific Rolling Mill; Deep Cut; Islais Creek and Bridge; 
 Eope Walk ; Italian Fishing Fleet and Flakes ; Celestial 
 Ditto ; South San Francisco ; Catholic Orphan Asylum ; 
 Hunter's Point ; Dry Dock ; Bay View Eace Course ; 
 Visitacion Point and Valley ; San Bruno Eoad ; New 
 Butchertown ; Ocean House Eoad ; Lake Honda ; Alms- 
 
SAjV FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 109 
 
 house ; Small Pox Hospital ; Ocean House Eace Track ; 
 Lake Merced ; Ocean House; Pacific Beach; SealKocks; 
 Cliff House ; Farallones ; Point Lobos ; Signal Station ; 
 Helmet Kock; Port Point ; Fort ; Light-House ; Golden 
 Gate ; Lime Point ; Point Bonita ; Mountain Lake ; 
 Lobos Creek : Presidio ; Barracks ; Parade Ground ; 
 Black Point ; Pacific Woolen Mills ; North Beach ; An- 
 gel Island ; Alcatraz ; North Point ; Sea V/all ; Ferries, 
 
 204-212 
 
 III. HOW TO SEE THE CITY. 
 
 Under this head we suggest : 
 
 Morning, or half-daj^ excursions, in and about the city and 
 
 its suburbs. 
 
 I. IN AND ABOUT THE CITY. 
 
 1. Montgomery Street, Telegraph Hill, North Beach, 
 Washington Square, The Piaza, City Hall, Kearny 
 street, _----._.. 215 
 
 2. Chinese Quarter, 216 
 
 3. Third street. South Park, Long Bridge, Potrero, South 
 San Francisco, Dry Dock, 218 
 
 4. Water Front, (south), Stewart street, P. M. S. S. Co.'s 
 Docks and Mammoth Steamships, Foundries, Factories, 
 Shot Tower, 218 
 
no BA.VCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 5. Water Front, (nortli), Sea Wall, Nortli Point, Ware- 
 houses and Clipi^ers, Iron Ships, Bay and Eiver Steam- 
 boats and Docks, .-_----. 218 
 
 6. Southwestern Suburbs, Mission street, Woodward's 
 Gardens, Old Mission Church, Jewish Cemeteries, 
 Woolen Mills, Howard street, 218 
 
 7. Western Suburbs and Beyond Bush street. Laurel Hill, 
 Lone Mountain Cemeteries, Cliff House Road, Eace 
 Track, Cliff House, Seal rocks, Pacific Beach, Ocean 
 House, Road Track, Lake Honda, New Ocean Road, 218 
 
 8. Northwestern Suburbs and Beyond: Russian Hill, 
 Spring Valley, Fort Point, Fortress, Lighthouse, Golden 
 Gate, Presidio, Black Point, 219 
 
SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 Historical. 
 
 The site of what is now the city of San Francis- 
 co was first permanently occupied by white men, 
 September 17, 1776. The same year witnessed the 
 entrenchment of a garrison and the establishment 
 of a Mission. 
 
 San Francisco owes its origin to Catholic mis- 
 sionaries and Spanish soldiers. Father Junipero 
 Serra led the missionaries — and virtually command- 
 ed the soldiers. The name San Francisco was 
 given in honor of Saint Francisco of Asisis, a city 
 of Italy, the founder of the order of Franciscans 
 to which Father Junipero belonged. The presidio, 
 garrison or fort, was founded first, Sept. 17, and 
 the mission about three weeks later, Oct. 9th. The 
 site first chosen was near a small lagoon back of, 
 that is, west of, what is now called Eussian Hill, 
 but the prevailing winds proved so high and bitter 
 as to compel its early removal to the more shelter- 
 ed sj^ot, over a mile south, under the lee of high 
 hills, and near the present Mission Creek. Here, 
 
112 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 at the head of what is now Center or Sixteenth 
 Street, the old church still stands. 
 
 For nearly sixty j-ears the mission stood, the nu- 
 cleus of a little village of rude adobe houses, ten- 
 anted by a fluctuating population of Indians, 
 Mexicans and Spanish — and the center of a mili- 
 tary and religious authority, which upon more than 
 one occasion made itself felt and feared for leagues 
 around. The population rarely rose above four 
 hundred and frequently fell to less than a hundred 
 and fift}^ 
 
 In 1835, Capt. W. A. Richardson put up the first 
 pioneer dwelling, with rude wooden walls and sail- 
 cloth roof. On the fourth of July of the next year, 
 1836, Jacob P. Leese finished the first frame house. 
 This house stood where the St. Francis Hotel now 
 stands, — on the southwest corner of Clay and 
 Dupont streets, a single block west of the pres- 
 ent City Hall. Leese had his store on the beach, 
 which was where Montgomery and Commercial 
 streets now intersect. Nearly seven solid blocks 
 of made-land now stretch between where that old 
 beach lay and the present water front. Other 
 houses soon rose near that of Leese, and presently 
 the villagers saw their little settlement fast 
 approaching the dignity of a new town, and 
 cast about to find a name. Nature caused it to 
 spring out of the ground for them in the form of 
 a species of aromatic mint, which, surrounding their 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 113 
 
 dwellings, perfuming the morning air and supply- 
 ing frequent and varied medicinal needs, had 
 proved indeed, as the Sj)aniards called it, " Yerba 
 Buena," the Good Herb. So the herb named the 
 town, and the name '' stuck, " as the Calif ornians 
 say, for nearly a dozen years. During these years 
 the houses grew in number, until 1847, when the 
 town contained seventj-nine buildings, — thirty-one 
 frame, twenty-six adobe, and the rest shanties — and 
 these houses sheltered thj-ee hundred souls, or, at 
 least, that number of bodies. On the 30th of Jan- 
 uary of that 3^ear, these three hundred dropped the 
 old name Yerba Buena, and adopted the older one, 
 which had belonged to the neighboring mission for 
 nearly fourscore years. Thus the town also became 
 San Francisco, and has ever since so remained. 
 The first steamboat aj)peared in the bay, Novem- 
 ber 15th of the same year. In March, 1848, the 
 houses had grown to two hundred, and the pox^ula- 
 tion to eight hundred and fifty. On the third of 
 the next month, the first public school began. 
 
 New Year'e Day, '49, the new city claimed a pop- 
 ulation of two thousand. Three days later the two 
 previously published weekly ^^aj^ers merged into the 
 Alta California, the earliest established of all news- 
 papers now existing in the State. 
 
 The early miners were making from twenty to 
 thirty dollars a day, getting '/bags" of dust and 
 ''piles" of nuggets, and rushing down to "Frisco" 
 
114 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 to gamble it away. These were the " flush times " 
 of the new city. Fresh eggs cost from seventy-five 
 cents to one dollar apiece. For a beefsteak and a 
 Clip of coffee for breakfast one had to pay a dollar 
 and a half, and a dinner cost him from two to ten 
 or even twent}^ dollars, according to appetite and 
 drinketite. Rough labor brought the old Congres- 
 sional pay of eight dollars a day; draymen earned 
 twenty dollars a day; and family " helj) " could 
 hardly be had for forty, or even fifty, dollars a week. 
 The great mass of the men lived in tents. Yery few^ 
 women had come, but those few were overwhelmed 
 with attention; if one wished to cross the street in 
 the rainy season, a score of brawny arms would fight 
 for the privilege of gallantly wading through the 
 sea of mud to carry her across the unpaved street. 
 
 Great fires came, four of them; the first the day 
 before Chistmas, '49 — it burned over a million dol- 
 lars worth; the second, May 4th, '50 — it destroyed 
 three millions dollars worth. A little over a month 
 later, June 14th, 1850, the most destructive fire the 
 city ever saw left it poorer by four millions of dol- 
 lars; and on the 17th of the next September the 
 fourth fire consumed another half million. Nearly 
 nine million dollars worth bui'ned in less than nine 
 months ! 
 
 Business thrived immensely. In 1852, more than 
 seven vessels a day arrived at or departed from San 
 Francisco. Commerce overdid itself. Long piers 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 
 
 ran out over the flats where now solid blocks of 
 loft}^ buildings have stood for half a score of years. 
 Sometimes storms kept back the clippers; then 
 prices went still higher. Between March and 
 November, flour went up from eight to forty dol- 
 lars a barrel, while the ' ' Alta " came down from its 
 usual broad and sightly page to the size of a pai^e 
 of window-glass, fourteen by ten. Villainy flour- 
 ished; drinking, gambling, robbery and murd^- - 
 held high carnival; the law did little, and did thaw^ 
 little shabbily and tardily; so the people woke and 
 resumed their original legislative, judicial, and es- 
 pecially their executive, functions. 
 
 In '51 and '52, and again in '56, they came nobly 
 to the front, hung the worst villains who defied the 
 common law, frightened away the others, restored 
 order, established security for honest men, and re- 
 solved themselves again into law-abiding citizens. 
 And thus, through perils of fire, social convulsions, 
 and financial fluctuation, the cosmopolitan city has 
 swept swiftly on until to-day, though ha\dng barely 
 attaine'd her mtijority, she stands in the first half- 
 score of American cities. Every year she leaves a 
 city or two behind in her steady progress toward the 
 throne of the continent which she will surely occupy 
 before the present century has fully fled. 
 
 Situation and Extent. 
 
 In extent, population, colRimerce, wealth and 
 growth, the San Francisco of to-day is not only the 
 
ii6 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 chief city of California, but tlie great commercial 
 metro]3olis of the whole Pacific slope. It is both a 
 city and a county; the county occupies the extreme 
 end of a hilly peninsula stretching north to the 
 Golden Gate, between the Pacific Ocean on the 
 west, and San Francisco bay on the east. 
 
 The whole peninsula has a length of from thirty- 
 five to forty miles, with an average width of from 
 twelve to fifteen miles. The average width of the 
 county from bay to ocean is four and one half miles, 
 and its extreme length, from the Golden Gate on 
 the north, to the San Mateo County line on the south, 
 is six miles and a half. Its boundary line bein^- the 
 natural one of a coast or shore on the west, north 
 and east, is more or less irregular; on the south it 
 is straight. Its entire area is 26,681 acres, including 
 the Presidio reservation of 1,500 acres, which belongs 
 to the general government. 
 
 The county also includes the Farallon Islands, 
 lying nearly thirty miles west in the Pacific Ocean, 
 with the islands of Alcatraz and Yerba Buena, or- 
 Goat Island, in San Francisco bay. 
 
 The city proper occupies the northeast corner of 
 the county. Its limits extend about two miles and 
 a half from east to west, by three and a half from 
 north to south, thus including between one fifth and 
 one sixth the area of the county. 
 
 The natural surface was very uneven and the soil 
 equally varied — sand beach, salt marsh, mud flats, 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VIQINITY. 117 
 
 low plains, narrow ravines, small and shallow val- 
 le3^s, elevated benches or plateaux, sandy knolls 
 and dunes, and stretches of the close, adobe soil, 
 made up its original surface; while rocky bluffs 
 fortified its shore line, and extensive ledges under- 
 laid its hills or cropped out from their sides, or 
 crowned their tops. These hills varied in height 
 from two hundred and sixty to four hundred and 
 ten feet, Avliile west and south of the city limits 
 they rose still higher. One or tw^o small lagoons lay 
 sluggishly about, and as many small streams found 
 their v^ay thence to the bay. 
 
 The original founders of the city, as is usual in 
 similar cases, seemed never to suspect that they 
 Y/ere moulding the beginnings of a grand metropolis. 
 Hence they laid out what little they did project with 
 the least possible regard to present symmetry, or 
 the probable demands of future growth. The 
 natural inequalities of surface, the grade and width 
 of streets which must become necessary to a large 
 city, reservations for public buildings, promenades, 
 gardens, parks, etc., with the sanitary necessity of 
 thorough drainage, were matters of which they seem 
 to have been serenely unconscious, or, worse still, 
 sublimely indifferent. And many of their immediate 
 successors in authority were legitimate descendants, 
 or humbly imitative followers. 
 
 We have not an important street in the city which 
 conforms its course to the cardinal points of the 
 
ii8 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 compass, and but one main avenue, Market street, 
 which begins to be wide enough. As Cronise tiiith- 
 fuUy says: "The whole town stands askew." 
 
 "We now proceed to "orient" the tourist, as 
 Horace Mann used to say, in regard to such 
 streets, avenues, thoroughfares, cuts, parks, etc., 
 as mainly constitute the highlj^ artificial, though 
 not particularly ornamental, toj)Ography of our 
 little occidental village. 
 
 General Plan. 
 
 Market street is the widest and the longest, start- 
 ing at the water front, half a mile east of the old 
 City Hall, and slightly ascending through eight or 
 nine blocks, it runs thence southwesterly on a 
 nearly level grade beyond the city limits. Its west- 
 ern end is yet unfinished. A mile and a half from 
 the water it cuts through a moderately high and 
 immoderately rock}" hill, beyond which it stretches 
 away toward the unfenced freedom of the higher 
 hills, and the dead level of the western beach 
 beyond, at which it will probably condescend ulti- 
 mately to stoj). Its surface presents every variety 
 of natural conformation ingeniously varied with 
 artificial distortion. Plank, rubble, McAdam, cob- 
 ble, Nicolson, gravel. Stow foundation, gravel, 
 adobe, sand, and finally undisguised dirt, offer their 
 pleasing variety to the exploring eye. From two 
 to four horse-railroad tracks diversify its surface 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 119 
 
 witli their restful regularit}^ while the steam cars 
 from San Jose follow their locomotive a short dis- 
 tance up its western end. # 
 
 Stately blocks, grand hotels, massive stores, lofty 
 factories, tumble-down shanties, unoccupied lots 
 and vacant sand-hills form its picturesque boundary 
 on either hand. When the high summer w^inds 
 sweep easterly down its broad avenue, laden with 
 clouds of flying sand from vacant lots along its 
 either margin, it becomes a decidedly open question 
 whether the lots aforesaid really belong in the 
 department of real estate, or should, properly enter 
 the catalogue of ''movable property." 
 
 We have dwelt thus at length upon this street, 
 not only on account of its central position and 
 suj)erior dimensions, but because it is a representa- 
 tive street. Other are like it as far as they can be. 
 They would resemble it still more closely, did 
 length, width and direction permit. It is fast be- 
 coming the great business street of the city, and, 
 spite of the roughness and crudeness necessarily 
 attaching to all the streets of a new and fast-grow- 
 ing cit}^ it unmistakably possesses all the requisites 
 of the futui-e "Grand Avenue" of the Pacific 
 metropolis. 
 
 On the northeast of Market street, through the 
 older portion of the city, the streets run at right 
 angles with each other, though neither at right an- 
 gles or parallel with Market. One set runs, in straight 
 
120 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 lines, nearly north and soutli. The other set, also 
 straight, crosses the former at right angles, that is, 
 running nearl}^ e*st and west. The principal of 
 these streets, as one goes from the baj^ westerly, back 
 toward the hills, and, in fact, some distance up 
 their slojDes, are Front, Batter}', Sansome, Mont- 
 gomery, Kearny, Dupont, Stockton, Powell, Mason, 
 Taylor, and a dozen others, of which those nearer 
 the bay are gradual!}' growing into importance as 
 business streets, especially along the more level 
 portions of their southern blocks, near where they 
 run into Market street. Beyond these, that is, west 
 of them, the streets are chiefly occupied by dwell- 
 ing houses, among which are many expensive resi- 
 dences of the most modern construction and elegant 
 design. 
 
 Between Front street and the bay run two short- 
 er streets, Davis and Drumm, along which, as well 
 as upon the northern part of Front street, are sev- 
 eral of the principal wharves, j)iers, docks and 
 steamboat landings. 
 
 At right angles with these streets, running back 
 at an acute angle from Market street, and at a right 
 angle with the water front as well as the streets al- 
 ready named, are Geary, Post, Sutter, Bush, Pine, 
 California, Sacramento, Clay, Washington, Jack- 
 son, Pacific, Broadway, with a dozen or more others 
 still further north, and a score or so south. 
 
 Along the eastern blocks of these streets, that is, 
 within five or six squares of the water, stand many 
 
SAN FRAA CISCO AND VICINITY. 
 
 of the leading business houses, hotels, newspaper 
 offices, etc. 
 
 A sufficient variety of pavement diversifies the 
 surface of all these streets — from the primitive, 
 original and everlasting cobble, destroyer of quiet, 
 destruction to wheels and death on horses, to the 
 smooth-rolling Nicolson and the beautifully level 
 Stow foundation, blessed bane of all the above 
 abominations, and not a specially bad thing for the 
 contractors. The sidewalks generally have a 
 liberal breadth. They are commonly covered 
 with plank, asphaltum or brick, and, near the cor- 
 ners and in front of the numerous rum-holes, with 
 gangs of bilks or crowds of loafers, who have only, 
 as S^Tlne}^ Smith once said of a certain vestry in 
 London, to lay their heads together to make a nrst- 
 class wooden pavement. 
 
 South of Market street, that is, in the newer and 
 more rapidly growing j^ortion of the city, the streets 
 were laid out under a new survey, and, of course, 
 have an angle and direction of their own. One set 
 runs parallel with Market, that is, nearly southwest 
 and northeast. Their names, in receding order 
 from Market, are Mission, Howard, Folsom, Har- 
 rison, Bryant, Brannan, etc. These streets are 
 generally wider than those of the older, northern 
 part. Southeast of them are seven or eight paral- 
 lel streets, gradually growing shorter as they come 
 nearer the Mission Bay, ending in South street, less 
 
122 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 than a block and a half long, lying along the water 
 front. The lower or eastern ends of nearly all these 
 streets run down to piers and wharves, uj)on which 
 are the leading lumber and coal j^ards of the city, 
 the largest hay and grain barns and sheds, and the 
 immense docks of the great Pacific Mail Steamship 
 Company. Nearly two miles back from the water 
 front all these streets "swing around the circle" 
 far enough to bring them into an exactly north and 
 south line, and creep southward down the peninsu- 
 la, a block or two farther south every season. 
 
 The streets running at right angles with Market 
 street, beginning at the water front and reckoning 
 back southwesterly, are named by their numbers, 
 First, Second, etc., up to Thirtieth, and even be- 
 yond. Between First street and the present water 
 front, some six or seven blocks have been filled in 
 and are occupied chiefly by gas works, lumber 
 yards and large manufactories. The new streets 
 thus formed are named, in receding order from 
 First street, Fremont, Beale, Main, Spear, Stuart 
 and East. To reduce blocks to miles, one has only 
 to know that in the older part of the city the blocks, 
 reckoning east and west, number twelve to the mile, 
 including the streets between. From north to south 
 they are shorter, numbering sixteen to the mile. 
 South of Market street the blocks are about one 
 seventh of a mile long from east to Avest, and one 
 ninth of a mile wide. In both the older and newer 
 
SA.V FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 123 
 
 13arts of the city, the regular standard blocks are 
 frequently subdivided by one, and sometimes two, 
 smaller streets, running through them each way. 
 Near the city front, the first six blocks, reckoning- 
 back from the water, have from one half to two 
 thirds the standard size. Bearing these dimensions 
 in mind, one can readily reduce blocks to miles, 
 and calculate distance and time accordingly. 
 
 Approaches to the City. 
 
 From only one direction can the traveler ap- 
 proach the city by land; that is, by coming up 
 from the south, thi:ough San Jose and the inter- 
 vening places. From every other direction one 
 approaches by water. Between Sacramento and San 
 Francisco there are two principal routes by rail. 
 The first brings the tourist to Yallejo, sixty miles, 
 and thence twenty-three miles by boat, making a 
 total of eighty-three miles, over the shortest and 
 quickest route. Time, four hours and a half, fare, 
 $3.00. 
 
 Approaching by this route, he comes down upon 
 the city from the northeast. On the left, the San 
 Pablo, Berkeley, Oakland and Alameda shores, ris- 
 ing gently back into broad plains, whose further 
 edges fringe the feet of the back-lying hills. Be- 
 yond the hills. Mount Diablo. On the larboard 
 bow, as the sailors say, that is, a little southwest, 
 rises Goat Island, or Yerba Buena, three hundred 
 
124 BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE. 
 
 and forty feet. This island looks/' very like a 
 whale," and in outline seems a yery monster among 
 leyiathans at that. 
 
 Directly south the waters of the bay stretch so 
 far that one can seldom discern the shore line, and 
 may easily fancj^ himself looking out to sea in that 
 direction. Further round to the right, that is, more 
 westerly, he may catch a glimpse of Hunter's Point 
 with the chimney and engine house of the Dry 
 Dock. Nearer lies the Potrero, with the suburban 
 city fast creeping up the sides, and crowning the 
 summit of its rocky promontory. From the beach, 
 at its nearest base, stretch out Jblie piers and rise 
 the grim}^ buildings of the Pacific Rolling Mills. 
 Still nearer you see the south end of the long- 
 bridge, stretching southerly across Mission Bay, 
 and connecting the Potrero with the city. In a 
 line with the further end of this bridge, and a mile 
 or more nearer, we have the piers and sheds of the 
 Pacific Mail Steamship Company, with the immense 
 ships of their China line, the largest wooden vessels 
 afloat. The steep slope just to the right of them, 
 on which jou see the upper stories of a large brick 
 building, is Rincon Hill, and the building is the U.S. 
 Marine Hospital. That monument^ as it seems, is 
 the Shot Tower, while in front of, around and beyond 
 it, you see the usual medley of ordinary city build- 
 ings, here and there rising into single or double 
 church sj^ires, broken by the bulk of some big busi- 
 
SAiV FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 125 
 
 ness block, and relieved by the regular lines of in- 
 tersecting streets. 
 
 E-ight of Rincon Hill, where the city fills a broad 
 hollow, 3^ou are looking over what was once the 
 " Hapx^y Valley " of early times. In a line beyond 
 it lies the Mission, which you cannot now discover, 
 backed by the " Twin Peaks," and the high hills 
 which form the back-bone of the peninsula. Still 
 following around, the larger buildings of the older 
 city meet the eye, gradually rising up the southern 
 slope. Those singular minarets or mosque-like 
 twin towers or spires, surmount the Jewish Syna- 
 gogue. Here and there a church spire shoots above 
 the roofs, but one sees fewer of them than in eastern 
 cities of equal size, because the jDOssibility of earth- 
 quakes, and the certainty of high winds, restrain 
 architects and builders from attempting anything 
 too lofty or exposed. Several of the finest churches 
 in the city, spread out on the earth much more than 
 they rise toward heaven. One reason may be that 
 they do not own far in the latter dii'ection. 
 
 North of the Synagogue towers, the hill still rises 
 through three blocks, when it reaches its full height 
 in California street hill. Then a slight depression 
 in the hill-top outline, followed by another rise in- 
 to the Clay street and "Washington street hill, two 
 blocks north and three blocks west of the former. 
 
 The higher hill still further north but nearer the 
 front, is the famous land-mark and signal-station, 
 
126 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 Telegraph Hill, from whose top the long familiar 
 observatoiy has but recently disappeared ; pros- 
 trated on a storm}^ night last winter, by one of the 
 giant winds whose fury it had so long defied. 
 
 Beyond, or to the right of Telegraph hill, the 
 city falls away to the northwest, and the bay shore 
 also trends in that direction. Black Point, the 
 Presidio, and finally Fort Point, bring us to the 
 Golden Gate. 
 
 Unfolding to empire its way, 
 
 Wide opened by gold and by fate, 
 
 Swung by tides which no nation can stay, 
 Here standeth the continent's gate. 
 
 Through the narrow Gate one has a single 
 glimpse of the grand old sea, which stretches so 
 peacefully away under the sunset. For northern 
 gate-post you have Lime Point; and thence the 
 vision rests on high hills j)acked in behind, and 
 gradual^ lifting the gaze to Mount Tamalpais, be- 
 yond whose sharply-cut summit, nothing of note 
 attracts the sight. Between us and Tamalpais, four 
 miles nearer and half a mile lower, close at the wa- 
 ter's edge, we have the small but beautifully situ- 
 ated town of Saucelito, with its sheltered picnic 
 grounds and tranquil bay. Beyond the Saucelito 
 bay you can almost see through Raccoon Sti-ait, 
 and discover that the higher land nearer the boat 
 is not a point, but an island. Its name is Angel 
 Island. It is the largest and most valuable island 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 127 
 
 • 
 
 in the bay. The Goyernment owns it and occupies 
 its southwestern side with barracks, garrison and 
 parade grounds. Several batteries dot the shore 
 at different points, and a military road around the 
 island, connects them with the garrison. 
 
 This other small island of solid rock, crowned 
 with a heavy fortress and girt with forts and bat- 
 teries, is Alcatraz, the Pacific Gibraltar. 
 
 Instead of coming by way of Vallejo, the passen- 
 ger from Sacramento may come by rail through 
 Stockton, forty-eight miles; thence by rail to Oak- 
 land, eighty-six miles; and thence by boat to San 
 Francisco, four miles; making a total distance of 
 one hundred and thirty-eight miles, all rail except 
 the last four. Through fare, $2.50. 
 
 By this route you approach the city on the east, 
 and have only to change the point of sight from 
 northeast to east, and remember that Goat Island 
 will be seen close by on the right hand, that is, 
 north of the boat, to make the description of the 
 approach from Yallejo almost equally accurate and 
 easily adaptable for the approach from Oakland, 
 which is the direction from which the great major- 
 ity ai^proach. 
 
 Those who may prefer can have theii* choice of a 
 third way from Sacramento, and a second from 
 Stockton; that is by steamer, usually leaving each 
 of those cities at noon, and due in San Francisco in 
 eight hours. From Sacramento by water the dis- 
 
128 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 • 
 
 tance is one hundred and twent^^-five miles, and the 
 fare, $1.50 ; from Stockton, one hundred and twen- 
 ty miles, fare, $1.50 ; dinner on board, $1.00; 
 staterooms, $2.00, single berths, $1.00. These 
 boats reach San Francisco so early one seldom 
 needs a stateroom, except in case of illness, or a 
 strong desire for seclusion. Both lines of steamers 
 land at the same i^ier, at the foot of Broadway, from 
 ten to twelve blocks from the leading first-class ho- 
 tels. 
 
 The only important route of approaching San 
 Francisco, and riding into the city by land, lies on 
 the south, coming from Gilroy, San Jose, Santa 
 Clara, Redwood City, and intermediate places, in 
 the cars of the Southern Pacific railroad. Coming in 
 by this route, one traverses the fertile plains of the 
 Santa Clara Valley, and skirts the foot-hills lying 
 along the Avestern base of the almost mountains, 
 which form the divide between the ba^^ slope and 
 the ocean slope of the broad x3eninsula. Near Red- 
 wood City, and for the succeeding fifteen miles, 
 the track runs between fresh water fields on the 
 west and salt water marsh upon the east. From 
 the Twelve-Mile Farm in, we strike nearer the 
 centre of the constantly narrowing joeninsula, and 
 near San Miguel catch the first glimpse of the 
 broad Pacific. The large building just west of the 
 track is the Industrial School, our California House 
 of Reformation. The southern suburbs of the city, 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 129 
 
 through which we enter, present nothing remarka- 
 ble beyond the usual medley of old shanties, broad 
 vegetable gardens, pleasant, home-like cottages, 
 and here and there the more pretentious suburban 
 residence, increasing in number as we come nearer 
 the centre. 
 
 We come in by Valencia street, and reach the 
 station upon Market, just east of its junction with 
 Valencia. 
 
 Ocean Approach. 
 
 Besides the aj^proaches already mentioned, one 
 may come in from Panama, Mexico, Oregon, the 
 Sandwich Islands, Australia, Japan or China. From 
 whichever he may come, for the last ten miles be- 
 fore reaching the dock, his track will be the same. 
 A few miles west of Fort Point, all these various 
 ocean routes converge into one, enter San Francis- 
 co Bay by the Golden Gate, and bear away south- 
 ward until they intersect, and for a short distance 
 coincide with, the approach from Vallejo, already 
 briefly described. 
 
 Conveyances. 
 
 Hacks. — Approaching the wharf or the railroad 
 station, you encounter the usual jargon of hotel and 
 baggage runners, each shouting his hotel, hack or 
 coach, as if strength of lungs was his chief stock in 
 trade. It is but simj)le justice to San Francisco 
 hackmen, however, to say that a more obliging. 
 
130 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 prompt, and courteous set, can liardly be found 
 in any American cit}' of e<;j[ual size. That travelers 
 may exactly understand for themselves the law 
 regulating hacks and coaches, we quote order No. 
 718, of the Board of Supervisors of the city and 
 count}'- of San Francisco : 
 
 Section 7. "For a hackney carriage drawn by 
 more than one horse, for one person, not exceeding- 
 one mile, $1.50, and for more than one j)erson, not 
 exceeding one mile, $2.50; and for each additional 
 mile, for each passenger, 50 cents. For a hackney 
 carriage drawn by one horse, for one person, not 
 exceeding one mile, $1.00 ; for more than one per- 
 son, not exceeding one mile, $1.50; for each pas- 
 senger, for each additional mile, 25 cents." 
 
 Sec. 8. "From any landing of any steamboat, to 
 any point east of the west line of Larkin street, and 
 north of the south line of Brannan street, and east 
 of Third street, shall, in all cases, be estimated not 
 to exceed one mile. " 
 
 In forty-nine cases out of fifty, no newly-arrived 
 gentleman or lady will have any personal need to 
 know the law; the foregoing is written mainly for 
 the fiftieth. Bear in mind that these rates, like all 
 fares and charges in the Golden State, are jDayable 
 in gold or its equivalent coin; also, that they are the 
 highest. Hackmen often carry for less. 
 
 Coaches. — Besides the hacks, one may find hotel 
 coaches, which carr}^ free to the hotel for which 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 
 
 131 
 
 tlie}^ run, or charge fifty cents for each passenger 
 within the limits above specified. 
 
 Cars. — The red cars of the City Front line pass 
 the head of the dock every five minutes. These 
 carry one to the very door of the '' Cosmopolitan/' 
 and " Occidental " Hotels, within one block of the 
 "Lick House," and two blocks of the "Grand 
 Hotel." Directly across the street from the pier of 
 the Sacramento and Stockton steamers, half a block 
 from the landing for passengers by rail, and one 
 block from the landing of those coming by Vallejo, 
 the green cars of the Sutter street line carry 
 one directly by the " Cosmopolitan," the " Lick 
 House," and the "Occidental," and within half a 
 block of the " Grand." On both these lines the 
 rate is ten cents coin for. a single fare, or twenty- 
 five cents for a coupon ticket good for four rides. 
 
 Wagons. — At or near any landing, one can always 
 find numbered express wagons, waiting to carry 
 baggage for from 50 cents to $1.00, according to 
 bulk, weight, or distance. 
 
 PoRTEES. — Black, white and yellow, will seryeyou 
 for " two bits, " that is 25 cents, for carrying any 
 reasonable package within reasonable distance. It 
 is well, however, to keep your ejQ on poi'ter and 
 package. 
 
 Baggage and Package Expresses. — Half an hour 
 or more before reaching the city, either by car or 
 boat, agents of the above companies will take your 
 7 
 
132 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 checks and your money, give you a receipt for both, 
 and deliver your baggage, for 25 cents for each or- 
 dinary-sized trunk or valise, at am^ place within the 
 single-fare limits already given. These are reliable 
 and responsible com^^anies, whose agents none need 
 fear to trust. They deliver baggage promptly and 
 in as good condition as received. 
 
 Hotels. 
 
 The foreign tourist can witness to the great- lack 
 of really fine hotels abroad. All England hardly 
 furnishes a single hotel to rank with the best of our 
 second-class hotels in America. Outside of Boston, 
 New York, Philadelphia, Chicago, St. Louis, and 
 Cincinnati, few, even of the northern cities, j)re- 
 sent any notable hotel attractions to the temporary 
 guest. New Orleans has a single good hotel, but 
 hardly one of the other southern cities has yet out- 
 grown the old-fashioned " tavern." 
 
 In respect to these — in good hotels — by the imme- 
 diate and unanimous verdict of every tourist, San 
 Francisco stands preeminent. Nowhere on the con- 
 tinent can the traveler find beds, tables and rooms 
 superior to those of the " Grand," the "Occident- 
 al," the^" Cosmopolitan," and the "Lick House." 
 and in no large cit}^ of America wi'll he find as reas- 
 onable charges, considering the amount and quality 
 of accommodation and the style of service rendered. 
 
 The usual standard rate at the four leading first- 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 133 
 
 class houses, is $3.00 a day, for board and room. 
 At the " Brooklyn," " Russ/' and "American Ex- 
 change, " the rates are $2.00 to $2.50 a daj^, for 
 good rooms and equally good board. 
 
 The Grand Hotel. — This magnificent hotel is the 
 newest of all. It stands on the south side of Market 
 street, occupying the whole block from New Mont- 
 gomery to Second street, and stretching southward 
 along new. Montgomery, across Steyenson street to 
 Jessie. Its north front is 205 feet, its west front 
 335 feet, thus coyering oyer one acre and a half of 
 ground. Its height is three stories, surmounted by 
 a Mansard roof, containing a fourth. Its style of 
 architecture may be called the " modern combina- 
 tion," highly ornamented. In method of construc- 
 tion, it is a complete frame building, surrounded by 
 brick walls of unusual thickness. Its four hundred 
 rooms include chambers, parlors and suits of the 
 amplest dimensions and the richest furnishing. 
 The halls, corridors and stairways are spacious and 
 airy. Through all the halls, at interyals of eyei?y 
 few feet, hang coils of fire-hose, each attached to 
 full hydrants, and always ready for instant use. 
 Bath-rooms and toilets abound. Barber-shop, bil- 
 liard room, and the most elegantly frescoed bar- 
 room upon the coast, occupy the most conyenient 
 portions of the basement and first floor. An amply- 
 supplied reading-room, with most luxurious chairs, 
 inyites and detains all weary guests. Branch offi- 
 
134 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 ces of the leading telegraphs, postal delivery box, 
 and all needed facilities for correspondence, are at 
 hand. Hacks stand constantly at the three spa- 
 cious entrances, and four leading lines of horse- 
 cars mdiate thence to every portion of the city and 
 suburbs. 
 
 The dining-hall accommodates three hundred. 
 Its tables are of moderate size, surrounded by 
 plenty of room, loaded with abundant. " substan- 
 tials," flanked with all the latest delicacies, and 
 served in the most attentive manner. Breakfast 
 rooms for private parties, and separate eating-rooms 
 for servants and children, immediately adjoin the 
 main dining-hall. A large and well-apj)ointed 
 laundry promptly accommodates guests. 
 
 If there's anything else imaginable in the whole 
 list of first-class hotel accommodations, just mention 
 it to your obliging host Johnson, or his courteous 
 and efficient adjutant, Eidgeway, and it shall go 
 hard but they will furnish it for you at once, if it is 
 to be had within the limits of telegraph and ex- 
 press. 
 
 The Occidental. — This popular standard house 
 stands upon the east side of Montgomery'; its west 
 front occupies the whole block from Bush street 
 to Sutter; stretches its north flank half a block 
 down Bush street, while its south flank goes a hun- 
 dred and sixty-seven feet down Sutter street. Ver- 
 tically it rises six stories into the sunshine. Four 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 135 
 
 hundred and twelve elegant single and double 
 rooms, with numerous suits having ample bathing 
 and other accommodations, besides ladies' parlors, 
 dining-halls, billiard-hall, convenient offices, broad 
 stairways, spacious halls, and roomy passages, 
 make up this truly magnificent mammoth establish- 
 ment. The carpets and furniture are of the most 
 elegant and costly description. A large and beauti- 
 fully-fitted patent safety elevator adjoins the grand 
 staircase near the main hall, and reading-room at 
 the Montgomery street entrance. 
 
 Near the main entrance is a telegraph-office — 
 hacks stand always in front, and four leading lines 
 of horse-cars pass the three entrances. A newspaper 
 and periodical stand, vs-ith post-office letter-box, 
 complete the conveniences of the reading-room. 
 
 The walls are braced with iron, and securely 
 anchored, besides being connected across the build- 
 ing by heavy iron ties on every story. Manager, 
 Philip McShane. 
 
 Cosmopolitan Hotel. — This w^orthy compeer of 
 the two alread^^ described, occupies the southwest 
 corner of Bush and Sansome streets. Cen- 
 trally-located, elegantlj^-constructed, conveniently- 
 arranged, and well-furnished, this house is one of the 
 largest and newest first-class hotels. An extensive 
 addition, including some scores of single and double 
 rooms, richly furnished in the most modern style, 
 sufficiently indicate its prosperity. Tubbs & Pat- 
 ten, manaofers. 
 
136 BAXCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 Lic^ House. — West side of Montgomery, between 
 Sutter and Post streets. Its east front occuj^ies 
 tlie entire block between these two streets, and 
 runs up between one and two hundred feet of eacb 
 of them. Whilst this house is excellently finished 
 and furnished throughout, it is especiall}^ cele- 
 brated for its elegant dining-hall, which is probably 
 more artistically-planned and exquisitely-finished 
 than any public dining-hall in the world. Jno. M. 
 Lawlor & Co., managers. 
 
 Brooklyn Hotel. ^ — Next to the elegant hotels 
 alread}' named, one may reckon the "Brooklj'n" — on 
 Bush street, north side, between Montgomery and 
 Sansome. This excellent house makes a specialt}^ 
 of accommodating families, having an unusually 
 large number of suits of rooms esjoecially designed 
 for their comfort. Its rates are about tAvo thirds of 
 those before mentioned. Hotel coaches convey all 
 guests to the house free of charge. Messrs. Kelly 
 & Wood, proprietors. 
 
 Besides the "Brooklyn," the traveler not wishing 
 to stop at any of the grander and dearer houses, 
 may have his choice of the "Buss House," west side 
 of Montgomery, from Sutter to Pine, Messrs. Pear- 
 son & Seymour, proprietors; the "American Ex- 
 change," Sansome street, west side, corner of Hal- 
 leck, Timothy Sargent, pro^Drietor ; the "Morton 
 House," formerly Orleans Hotel,. 117 Post street, 
 south side, just above Kearny; and the " Interna- 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 137 
 
 tional Hotel," Weygant & Partridge, 530-534 Jack- 
 son street, north side, just below Kearny. 
 
 European Plan. — One fond of this style, may 
 suit himself at Gailhard's Hotel, Nos. 507 and 509 
 Pine street, Pereira&Co., proprietors. "What 
 Cheer House" — This famous hotel combines the 
 lodging-house and restaurant under one roof, with 
 a success of which no old Californian needs be told. 
 Besides the usual reading-room, it has also an ex- 
 tensive library and museum, free to all guests; R. 
 B. Woodward, proprietor, 525-529 Sacramento 
 street. 
 
 Lodging Houses. 
 
 Among these we name the " Nucleus" and the 
 '' Clarendon" as equal to the best. The " Nucleus" 
 stands on the southeast corner of Third and Mar- 
 ket streets; David Stern, proprietor. The " Claren- 
 don House," John M. Ward, manager, 574 Folsom 
 street, northwest corner of Second, is new and 
 central. 
 
 Restaurants. 
 
 Whether a man eats to live or lives to eat, he 
 can readily suit himself here. At present rates, 
 the traveler can get better food, greater varietj^, 
 and more of it for the same money, than in any 
 eastern city. Among the best restaurants, are 
 Saulmann's, 520 California street, north side, be- 
 tween Montgomerj^ and Kearny; Swain's Family 
 Bakery and Restaurant, 636 Market, north side. 
 
138 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 between Montgomeiy and Kearny; Maiiin's, Com- 
 mercial street; Job's, 327 Kearny; and Lermitte's 
 Coffee Saloon, 530 Merchant street. 
 
 Baths. 
 
 The hotels usually furnish first-class facilities with- 
 out the trouble of going out from under the roof. 
 Should anyone, however, wish a more extended ap- 
 plication of fresh or salt water, hot or cold, vapor 
 or steam, Turkish, Russian or Roman, he has come 
 to the ver}^ place where they have them even better 
 than in their oiiginal countries. If j^ou doubt it, 
 ask Bayard Taylor. 
 
 Z'eile's Baths, at 527 Pacific street, north side, 
 between Montgomer}^ and Kearnj^ furnish more 
 natural facilities and improved artificial appliances 
 for the scientific aj^plication of Russian, Turkish, 
 and Roman baths, than any other establishment in 
 Europe or America. The visitor will be surprised 
 at the extent and completeness of every appoint- 
 ment in Dr. Zeile's establishment. 
 
 Places of Amusement. 
 
 No matter how bus}^ you ma}^ be at home, 3'ou 
 are liere for enjoyment. When evening comes you 
 want a good lecture, concert or play. "We have 
 them all — the first occasionally, the last two regu- 
 larly. The newest, largest and finest play house 
 is the 
 
SA^Y FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 139 
 
 Califoenia Theater, on tlie north side of Bnsli 
 street between Kearny and Diipont: Jolin McCul- 
 lougli, lessee and manager. If there's a good play 
 in the city, we generally find it here; if there are 
 comfortable chairs and luxurious boxes anywhere, 
 they are certainly here; and if there's an artist of 
 good taste and a successful manager combined in 
 one man, his name is John McCullough. The the- 
 ater is new and spacious, having comfortable seats 
 for over three thousand, one of the largest stages 
 in the United States, with complete mechanical ap- 
 pliances, and finely -joainted scenery and drop- 
 curtain. 
 
 Metropolitan Theater. — Montgomery street, north 
 side, betweenWashington and Jackson. Occasion- 
 ally occupied for transient engagements, often pre- 
 senting excellent plays. Has fine acoustic proper- 
 ties; seats two thousand. 
 
 Alhambra, 325 Bush street. This is a snug and 
 tasty combination of theater, minstrels and opera 
 house, usually presenting some popular and S23icy 
 blending of wit, art and song. 
 
 Maguire's Opera House. — Washington street, 
 north side, between Montgomery and Kearny; 
 Thomas Maguire, proprietor. This is the famous 
 old theater in which Forrest, Kean and Booth de- 
 lighted the California audiences of earlier days. 
 
 Chinese Theater. — At No. 630 Jackson street the 
 curious visitor may witness the most curious medley 
 
I40 B.-LVCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUJDE. 
 
 ever put upon a stage and called a play. An inter- 
 minable and unintelligible jargon of ding-dong, 
 clatter-clattter, turn -turn and rattle-rattle-rattle com- 
 bined with falsetto screeches, wonderful gymnas- 
 tics, graceful contortions, terrific sword combats, 
 and strange old oriental masqueradings, is what you 
 may see in the celestial play house. Half an hour 
 of it will fully satisfy you; but every eastern visitor 
 must needs endure at least so much. 
 
 Museums — "Woodward's. — At "Woodward's Gar- 
 dens, Mission street, between Thirteenth and Four- 
 teenth. This contains over ten thousand specimens 
 of zoology, ornithology, Indian relics, alcoholic col- 
 lections, natural curiosities, ancient coins, etc., be- 
 sides a beautifully arranged and finely lighted^ art 
 gallery, including several rare old pictures, and a 
 sort of floral museum in the shape of a charming 
 conservatory, wherein fragrance vies with beauty to 
 delight and detain. 
 
 Melodeons, Dance Halls, Beer Cellars. — We 
 hardly anticipate that the average tourist will care 
 to be " guided" into places under this heading, but 
 the ^philosophic student of human nature, as well as 
 the curious observer of social customs, cannot con- 
 sider his knowledge of any city comj)lete until he 
 has personally seen and actually known, not onl}' 
 the highest, but the lowest, amusements extensively 
 patronized by its peoj^le. Like all other large cities, 
 San Francisco has its share of low haunts in which 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 141 
 
 realty modest, and sometimes meritorious, perform- 
 ances blend with a much larger proportion of im- 
 modest, meretricious and disgraceful ones. 
 
 HaUs. 
 
 Platt's Haxl. — 216 Montgomery, east side, just 
 north of Bush street, is one of the most popular in 
 the city. Popular concerts, literary lectures, reli- 
 gious anniversaries, educational celebrations, magi- 
 cal entertainments, military balls and social dances, 
 succeed each other so rapidly that there are few 
 nights, especially in the pleasure season, when 
 Piatt's Hall does not offer something worth going 
 to see. Henry B. Piatt, proprietor. 
 
 Union Hall.— South side of Howard, near Third. 
 This is the largest permanent hall in the city, and 
 a grand place for unusually large social parties, ex- 
 hibitions, political conventions and pojjular mass 
 meetings. It easily accommodates upwards of 
 three thousand. 
 
 Pacific Hall. — In the California Theater build- 
 ing, north side of Bush, just above Kearny. This 
 is a centrally-located, tastefully-finished double 
 hall, that is, two connected so as to be used singly 
 or jointly according to need. Capacity, fifteen 
 hundred. 
 
 Mercantile Library Hall. — In the basement of 
 the Mercantile Library Association Building, north 
 side of Bush street, between Montgomeiy and San- 
 
142 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 some. Elegantly fiuislied in pure white, with 
 j)aneled and ornamented walls and ceilings. Ac- 
 commodates eight hundred. The closeness of the 
 neighboring buildings gives it a bad light by day, 
 but no hall in the city lights uj) more brilliantly at 
 night. 
 
 Mechanics' Institute Hall. — Upon the lower 
 floor of the building of that association, south side 
 of Post street, between Montgomery and Kearny. 
 This is another newly-constructad, conveniently- 
 planned, well-furnished and centrally-located hall, 
 with a medium capacity of about six hundred. 
 
 Y. M. C. A. Hall. — Young Men's Christian Asso- 
 ciation building, north side of Sutter, just west of 
 Kearny. A remarkably neat, well-proportioned, 
 lofty and well- ventilated hall, having its caj)acity 
 largely increased by a conveniently-sloj^ing galleiy 
 stretching across the whole of one side, and throw- 
 ing forward its flanks at either end. Capacity, six 
 hundred and fifty. 
 
 Dashaway Hall. — Dashaway Society's building, 
 south side of Post, between Kearny and Dupont. 
 This singular name belongs to the pioneer temper- 
 ance organization of the Pacific coast. Its origin 
 can hardly be better stated than in the brief sen- 
 tences of Tuthill, in his History of California: " A 
 company of firemen, Howard No. 3, sitting in theii" 
 engine house late at night, January 1st, 1859, cele- 
 brating New Year's after the custom of the country. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 143 
 
 fell to musing over tlieir future j^rospects, and were 
 vouclisafed a vision of their probable fate. At last 
 they solemnly agreed to discontinue the use of in- 
 toxicating liquor, or, as they phrased it, to " da^h 
 away the cup." They accordingly^ organized a tem- 
 perance society of " Dashaways," with Frank E. R. 
 Whitney, chief engineer of the fire department of 
 San Francisco, as' their first President, pledging 
 themselves to drink nothing intoxicating for five 
 and one half months. They kept their promise, 
 and liked it so well that, before reaching the limit 
 of their self-imposed i)ledge, they renewed it for 
 all time." Thus began the first temperance society 
 of California, which has enrolled thousands of 
 names, erected a fine building, founded a large 
 library, and maintains weekly lectures to this day. 
 In a country where Avinfe is fast becoming a chief 
 production, and whose greatest present danger is the 
 social glass, the origin, eftbrts and success of the 
 pioneer temperance organization merit more than 
 passing notice. 
 
 Bn^LiARDs. — Tournaments and champions of this 
 king of in-door games compel brief mention of this 
 popular amusement and the places where one may 
 best enjoy it. Every leading hotel has a fine bil- 
 liard room attached ; those of the four first named 
 are palatial in the elegance and richness of their 
 finish and furniture. 
 
 Bowling Saloons and Shooting Galleries. — We 
 
144 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 set these togetlier, not because of any particular 
 affinity between the two, but because the city has 
 hardly enough of either to make an item of one 
 alone. At the southwest corner of Montgomery 
 and Pine, the enthusiastic bowler may probably 
 find as many pins as he can prostrate, with attend- 
 ants who can set them up as fast as he can knock 
 them down ; while at 913 Kearny street, he can 
 keep up his practice, if already an ex23ert, or "get 
 his hand in," if a novice, at 
 
 " Shooting folly as she flies," 
 Those wishing the longer range for rifle practice, 
 find it at Hermann's, near the Presidio, that is, on 
 one's way to Fort Point. 
 
 Gymnasiums. 
 
 Although nominally a christian land, California 
 has yet many sturdy "musclemen" within her bor- 
 ders, while her larger cities have several schools of 
 various kinds, for the training of young disciples 
 in " muscular Christianity. 
 
 Chief among these in San Francisco, stands the 
 Olympic Club, the largest physical culture club in 
 the State. Founded in 1860, during its eleven 
 years of ceaseless and increasing activit}^, over five 
 thousand persons have availed themselves of its ad- 
 mirable facilities for acquiring or perfecting one's 
 ability to "travel on his muscle." It is by no 
 means an association of boys, or of young men 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 145 
 
 only ; some of the best known gray-beard pioneers, 
 with many of the leading merchants and profession- 
 al men, have enthusiastically enjoyed their daily 
 "play-spell" within its walls for many years, and 
 they do it still. At 35 Sutter street, south side, 
 just below Montgomery, one may find their spa- 
 -cious and lofty hall, amply supplied with all the 
 paraphernalia of modern gymnastics, and adorned 
 with several large j^aintings in oil, by prominent 
 artists who are also Olympics, besides the photo- 
 graphs of past and present leading members. 
 
 The San Francisco Turn-verein have their hall 
 and rooms on the north side of O'Farrell, between 
 Mason and T^iylor. Organized in 1852, it is the 
 oldest association in the State, owns its premises, 
 and has an actual present membership of nearly six 
 hundred. It is,, of course, conducted upon the 
 German plan. 
 
 Y. M. C, A. — Those who want a roll at the pins 
 upon strictly orthodox j^rinciples, or to punch each 
 other's heads under the sanction of Christianity, 
 can escaj)e, or at least modify, the censure of their 
 uncharitable spiritual superiors, by resorting to the 
 very neat and comfortable gymnasium in the base- 
 ment of the Young Men's Christian Association 
 Building, already described. This has the great 
 advantage and the unquestionable attraction of 
 providing for ladies also. It has all the necessary 
 conveniences of bath-rooms and dressing-rooms at- 
 tached. 
 
146 BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE. 
 
 Skating Rinks. — Mercury, the fleet messenger of 
 the gods, is fabled to have had xoing8 upon his feet. 
 Forbidden by gravity to emulate him, our modern 
 skaters fasten ivheels to their feet, and make up for 
 their inability to fly by developing their power to 
 skate. The immense floor. of the Mechanics' Insti- 
 tute Mammoth Pavilion, on the west side of Stock- 
 ton, between Post and Geary, affords the largest 
 and smoothest rink to be found in the union. Two 
 or three others exist in the city, besides the very 
 large and fine new one in the j^avilion at AYood- 
 ward's Gardens. 
 
 Base-Ball and Cricket Grounds. — At the south- 
 east corner of Folsom and Twenty-fifth streets, an 
 entire block, inclosed by a high fence, leveled to 
 the necessary smoothness and overlooked by sev- 
 eral hundred well-sheltered sjDCctators' seats, fur- 
 nishes fine accommodations for match games of 
 base-ball and cricket. Here the famous Red 
 Stockings, of Cincinnati, won fresh laurels, and 
 the officers and crew of H. B. M. ship Zealous, 
 played the crack cricket clubs of the State. 
 
 Parks and Gardens. 
 
 woodward's gardens 
 Are on the west side of Mission street, between 
 Thirteenth and Fourteenth. This famous resort is 
 both park and garden, and much more besides. Its 
 fences inclose nearty six acres, but its actual surface 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 147 
 
 consiclerabl}^ surpasses that area, from the fact that 
 the hill-slopes and terraces, with the various j^oors 
 and galleries of the different buildings really double 
 or even treble the original surface beneath, so that, 
 if spread upon one level, they would cover thousands 
 of square feet more. They thus rival any public 
 square in size and far sur^^ass it in variety and 
 beaut}'. 
 
 We reach them, by the red cars of the City Rail- 
 road Compan}^ leaving the west front of the Grand 
 Hotel, at the junction of New Montgomery Avenue 
 and Market street, every five minutes — fare five 
 cents. Or we may go out by either the Market 
 street, Howard street, or Folsom street cars. The 
 first of these carry us within a little over a block of 
 the entrance — fare, five cents; the second wdthin a 
 block, and the third within two blocks. Fare on 
 the last two, ten cents for a single ride, or four 
 tickets for a quarter. On sunny da^^s and holiday 
 afternoons the City Eailroad runs large, open-sided 
 excursion or picnic cars, n'ewly constructed ex- 
 pressly to be run to and from the Gardens. The 
 entrance is upon the west side of Mission, be- 
 tween Thirteenth and Fourteenth, through an 
 elegant architectural gateway, or sort of facade, 
 surmounted by four colossal statues, or carved 
 figures. The two central figiu'es resemble a com- 
 bination of Minerva and the Goddess of Liberty; 
 one might not go far wrong in letting them stand for 
 
148 BAXCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 California and Oregon. The one upon either flank is 
 a notably well-carved grizzly; larger than life and 
 twice as natural, sitting erect upon his haunches, 
 supporting a flag-staff with his fore paws, and with 
 mouth slightly opened in an amiable grin of undis- 
 guised pleasure at the prominence of his elevated 
 position, and of welcome to the visiting thousands 
 who constantly deposit their quarters and dimes 
 beneath his sentinel post. 
 
 Arrived within we seem to have suddenh^ left the 
 windy city and dusty streets far behind. Grassy 
 lawns surround beautiful gardens. Every variety 
 of flowery vine and blossoming shrub alternates 
 with rare trees interspersed here and there with 
 artificial clumj)s of imported trees, or stretching 
 along the border of the original grove native to the 
 spot, while gravel walks wind among thje whole. Im- 
 mediately upon the right of the entrance, in the 
 gate-keeper's building, is a library of nearly two 
 thousand standard volumes, many of them rare and 
 costly. Directly in front of the gateway, stands 
 the 
 
 MUSEUM, 
 
 formerly Mr. Woodward's private residence — at 
 present occupied b}" a miscellaneous museum of 
 natural and artificial Avonders, beasts, birds, fishes 
 and shells, with an occasional freak of nature in 
 the shape of a mammoth or a dwarf, or a still 
 more startling preservation of some double-headed 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 149 
 
 or six-legged specimens. The zoologist or oruitliol- 
 ogist would scarcely get beyond this building the 
 first day. Left of the Museum stands the 
 
 CONSEKVATORY. 
 
 This is the princix^al one of five flower and plant 
 houses, having an aggregate length of three hun- 
 dred feet by one tenth that width. This is a really 
 elegant ciystal palace in miniature, filled with the 
 beauty and fragrance of the rarest exotics. Through 
 this one may j)ass directly to the 
 
 ART GALLERY. 
 
 The vestibule or ante-room of the Art Gallery is 
 in fact another museum, containing two statues, an 
 extensive collection of birds and bull's eggs; up- 
 wards of a thousand coins of all ages and nations, 
 curious idols and weapons, with hundreds of other 
 curiosities helpfully classified, and the whole en- 
 closed in an ante-room elegantly proportioned and 
 beautifully frescoed by Poldeman, in imitation of 
 Pompeii. Thence we enter the Art Gallery proper, 
 lighted from above — frescoed bj^ the same artist — 
 decorated, in the corners, with allegorical represen- 
 tations of Painting, Sculpture, Music and Architect- 
 ure — while over the door hang the two celebrated 
 bas-reliefs, "Night" and "Morning," by Thor- 
 waldsen. Niches on each side contain busts of 
 Schiller, Goethe, Tasso and Petrarch. Over sixty 
 rare old paintings or faithful copies cover the walls. 
 
150 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 Eapliael and Salvator Rosa a^^x^ear in beautiful 
 coj)ies; several gems from the best Dutch masters 
 furnish a transition to the modern school, of 
 which one or two pictures from Bierstadt, and two 
 or three views of California scenerj^ by Yirgil Wil- 
 liams, stand as pleasing types. 
 
 Leaving the Art Galler}^ by another exit, we 
 stand upon the margin of a lovely little lake, around 
 whose centre revolves* the great attraction for the 
 young folks, and no small novelty to most adult 
 visitors, the famous 
 
 ROTARY BOAT. 
 
 This endless craft is a huge circular vessel, rigged 
 with fore and aft sails, and seating a hundred i^eo- 
 ple, who step in from the concave landing upon one 
 side as the radial seats successively come up. It 
 would puzzle the " cutest" old salt to find bow or 
 stern to this curious craft; the shrewdest country- 
 men have to confess that they " can't make head 
 nor tail out of the thing," while the enjoyment 
 which the j^oungsters find in it, like the boat itself, 
 never comes to an end. 
 
 Between the lake and the conservatory, an out- 
 door 
 
 GYMNASIUM, 
 
 with ladders, bars, rings, swings and climbing- 
 poles, accommodates all who may wish to recreate 
 the body. From the lake flows a little stream, 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITV., 151 
 
 along whose banks the pelican, the crane, the alba- 
 tross, the wild goose and the common gull, pom- 
 pously stalk or awkwardly waddle; while in its 
 water, two or three beavers, a i)air of minks and a 
 seal or two, make their homes. Beyond this, the 
 
 HENNERY, 
 
 in which the admirer of fine poultiy may see a large 
 variety of the choicest stock. An adjoining in- 
 closure j^resents a pair of ostriches, and another 
 has two Or three beautiful deer and fawn. Near 
 the southwest corner of the garden, the 
 
 TUNNEL 
 
 carries the visitor through a heavily-tirabered, se- 
 curely planked, cleanly-kept and well-lighted pas- 
 sage under Fourteenth street, into the 
 
 ZOOLOGICAL GEOUNDS 
 
 and the amphitheater. Here, ranged along the 
 north side, backed by a high and tight fence, and 
 fronting the south that they may have the warmest 
 possible exposure, are the animals of the menagerie. 
 Royal Bengal Tigers, Rocky Mountain Grizzlies, 
 Mexican Panthers, and South American Jaguars, 
 Australian Kangaroos, and a curious medley of 
 dissimilar animals known as the "Ha^Dpy Family,'* 
 make uj) the caged collection. The cages are 
 roomy, airy, cleanly and secure. The animals are 
 remarkably fine specimens, kept in capital condi- 
 
152 .BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 tion, and the keeper is intelligent and courteous. 
 Beyond the great cages is another range of small- 
 er ones, containing black and cinnamon bears, fox- 
 es, badgers, raccoons, opossums, and mischievous 
 monkey's of all sizes. Esquimaux dogs, Siberian 
 reindeer and Euroi^ean elk, with many other ani- 
 mals, more than we have space even to catalogue, 
 make up a collection of animated nature sufficient 
 to stock half a dozen ordinary traveling shows, and 
 still leave enough on hand to surpass any of them. 
 Besides these, sjoacious inclosures allow Arabian 
 and Bactrian camels a free j)romenade, while still 
 be^^ond, another yard is tenanted by the shaggiest, 
 sleef)iest-;^ooking, most patient and good-natured 
 donkeys that ever allowed a gang of roistering 
 3^oungsters to j)ack themselves upon their backs, 
 only to be incontinently and ignominously i^itched 
 over their heads into a promiscuous i)ile of dust- 
 covered and disgusted juvenile humanit3\ At the 
 extreme end of the Zoological Grounds the inclos- 
 ure on the right contains a genuine Eocky Mountain 
 Buffalo, while in the larger one upon the left, two 
 or three reindeer contentedly browse. 
 
 AMPHITHEATER. 
 
 In the center of the zoological grounds, a large 
 race-course, securely inclosed between inner and 
 outer circular fences, affords free scope for Koman 
 Chariot races, hurdle races, foot races, and eques- 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 153 
 
 triaii performances generall3^ Within tlie inner 
 fence, a level circle of some eiglity feet diameter, ac- 
 commodates acrobatic performers ; while a lofty pole, 
 rising from its center, furnishes ambitious young- 
 sters all needed facilities for flying swings or skillful 
 *' shinning." Around this stadium are raised seats 
 for three thousand, with a covered portion shelter- 
 ing six hundred, not to mention standing room for 
 ten thousand more. 
 
 Eeturning through the tunnel we turn to the 
 left, ascend the hill and enter the 
 
 PAVILION. 
 
 This is the largest and strongest permanent 
 wooden building upon the coast. It has the form 
 of a parallelogram with the corners unequally cut 
 off, thus giving its ground outline the shape of an 
 irregular octagon. It is one hundred and fifty feet 
 long, by one hundred and thirty wide and fifty 
 high, surmounted by a water-tight roof, nearly an 
 acre and a half in extent. ■ Half a dozen broad en- 
 trances admit us to the spacious interior. Here we 
 have a central floor; one hundred and ten feet long- 
 by ninety feet wide, as solidly laid, perfectly fitted 
 and smoothly planed as art could make it, and 
 furnishing the finest 
 
 SKATING KINK 
 
 imaginable, or the most caj^acious ball-room floor 
 to be desired. Around this floor, a sort of dress- 
 
154 
 
 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 circle, fitted witli easy seats, separated by broad 
 aisles and roomy spaces, rises gradually back to tlie 
 surrounding wall. This dress-circle accommodates 
 three thousand spectators. Above it is a broad 
 gallery of equal size,. similarly fitted and holding as 
 many. The gallery windows command a fine view 
 of the underlying gardens, the meandering walks, the 
 lake, the conservatories, shrubbery and the muse- 
 um ; of the zoological grounds and amphitheater 
 further away, and of the southwestern suburbs, 
 bounded b}^ the Mission hills, bej^ond. This pa- 
 vilion has a seating ca^oacity of six thousand, while 
 for any brief mass-meeting, four thousand more 
 could easily stand in the nine thousand nine hun- 
 dred square feet of space upon the floor. A com- 
 modious and conveniently located music, or speak- 
 er's stand, with broad stairways between dress-circle 
 and gallery, complete the appointments of this 
 mammoth building, whose workman-like finish and 
 enormous strength, fully equal its huge size and 
 immense capacity. Just west of the pavilion stands 
 a picturesque little 
 
 TUEKISH MOSQUE, 
 
 whose exterior faithfully reproduces the oriental 
 original. Its interior is tastefully frescoed, while 
 its domed ceiling presents an astronomical fresco, 
 representing the starry heavens. Near the south- 
 east corner of the pavilion is the 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 155 
 
 RESTAUEANT, 
 
 BO that one need not leave the grounds, should he 
 find occasion to fill his stomach before he has suf- 
 ficiently' feasted his eyes. Between the restaurant 
 and the mosque, occupying the highest point of 
 the hill, stands 
 
 THE OBSERVATORY, 
 
 formed by a secure railing and comfortable seats 
 inclosing and surrounding the circular top of a 
 huge reservoir, or tank. Until the recent erection 
 of the pavilioji, this was the best point of view from 
 which to study the plan of the grounds and. enjoy 
 their scenery; and even now, it well rewards ascent, 
 especially for those who hardly care to climb into 
 the pavilion gallery. 
 
 In various snug places among and under the 
 trees, and, in some places, surrounding their trunks, 
 are scattered scores of 
 
 LUNCH TABLES, 
 
 as a sort of out-post or picket-guard thrown out by 
 the restaurant proper. All about the top of the 
 pavilion hill, and for some distance down its sides, 
 these tables, of all shapes and sizes, round, ring- 
 shaped, triangular, oqtagonal, square, and "par- 
 allelogramical," and surrounded by an abundance 
 of comfortable seats, occupy the most romantic sit- 
 uations. Descending the hill-sloj)e by a winding 
 l^ath, we pass a broad lawn upon the left, on which 
 8 
 
156 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 tlie enterprising proprietor j^roposes tlie early erec- 
 tion of a large, conveniently-arranged fire-proof 
 museum, for the better security of liis valuable 
 collections and cabinets. 
 
 We have now completed the general tour of this 
 elegant park, with its delightful combination of the 
 beautiful in nature and the wonderful in art, with 
 the rarest curiosities of both. As a broad and airy 
 holiday play-ground for tired pupils, as a romantic 
 retreat for family picnics, as a pleasure-j^ark for the 
 quiet promenades of old and young, as a vaiied 
 field of study for the naturalist, as one of the lungs 
 through which the tired and dusty city may draw a 
 cool, refreshing, healthful breath, and, finally, as a 
 grand union of park, garden, conservatory, muse- 
 um, gymnasium, zoological grounds and art gal- 
 lery, no eastern city offers the equal of Woodward's 
 Gardens. 
 
 City Gardens. 
 
 On the south side of Twelfth street, stretching 
 from Folsom to Harrison, and running half a 
 block south. Entrance on the corner of Folsom 
 and Twelfth. Beached most directly by the Fol- 
 som street cars. Admission, 25 cts. 
 
 Menageries. 
 
 The finest in the city is that already described in 
 the zoological department of Woodward's Gardens. 
 
^•^.V FRANCISCO AND VICINIl V: 
 
 Tlie only other is a small collection of bears, 
 monkeys and birds at North Beach. 
 
 Squares and Parks, 
 
 The oldest and best finished public square is 
 Portsmouth Square, commonly called the Plaza, on 
 the west side of Kearny street, extending from 
 Clay street to Washington street, and directly front- 
 ing the old City Hall. Besides these are Washing- 
 ton, Union, Columbia, Lobos, Alcatraz, Lafayette, 
 Jefferson, Alta, Hamilton and Alamo Squares, with 
 Yerba Buena, Buena Yista and Golden Gate Parks. 
 The last named covers nearly 1,200 acres, (of sand 
 at present.) Of these, the Plaza and Washington 
 Square are the principal ones which have been suf- 
 ficiently imj^roved to merit even passing notice. 
 To these one may add South Park, a small but 
 elegant private inclosure occupying the centre of 
 the block between Bryant and Brannan streets. 
 
 Promenades. 
 
 Montgomery Steeet. — This is the San Francisco 
 Broadway. Flanked on either side by many of 
 the largest and finest retail business houses, as well 
 as two of the leading hotels. During the fore- 
 noon business monopolizes it almost exclusively; 
 afternoons fashion claims its sidewalks, and well- 
 nigh crowds business, not exactly to the wall, but 
 rather upon the curbstone, if not fairly into the 
 
158 HANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 gutter. From three to five p. m. the tide of- mara- 
 mon hegius to ebb, and that of fashion svvells in at 
 full flood. Fail- women and frail, beauty and 
 ughness — calicoes, silks, satins, velvets, broad- 
 cloths, beavers and cashmere, make uj) the motley 
 throng, sv/aying and trailing up and down the 
 crowded thoroughfare . The faces are veiy fair, ' ' as 
 far as we can see," and the forms equall}^ graceful, 
 with the same limitation. 
 
 Masculine faces, broad-browed, clear-eyed, bronze- 
 cheeked, firm -mouthed or full-bearded, impress one 
 with the dash, the drive and the nerve which have 
 spanned the continent with rails and bridged the 
 Pacific with ships, ere yet the flush of full manhood 
 has fairly settled upon them. Too many, it is true, 
 show the full, uncertain lip, the flushed cheek and 
 dewy eye that tell of excessive stimulus too fre- 
 quently applied. Nowhere on earth is the temj^ta- 
 tion to drink stronger than here. Business is 
 sharp, competition brisk, and the climate the most 
 stimulating anywhere to be found. So they drive 
 till nature falters or weakens and calls for rest. 
 But rest they cannot or will not afford ; the stimu- 
 lus is quicker, it is everywhere close at hand — it 
 seems to save time. Business men die suddenly ; 
 on the street to-day, at Laurel Hill to-morrow; 
 heart disease, apoplexy, congestion of the lungs, or 
 liver complaint, are among the causes most fre- 
 quently assigned to the inquiring public. The 
 
SAiV FRAA CISCO AND VICINITY. 159 
 
 causes of these causes, few stop to ask, or dare to 
 tell. 
 
 Kearny Street. — Parallel with Montgomery and 
 but a single block above, that is, west of it, runs 
 the rival, if not already the equal, business and 
 pleasure avenue, Kearny street. Though some sin- 
 gle buildings on Montgomery may be finer, the av- 
 erage of the business blocks along Kearny street 
 already equals, if it does not surpass that of its 
 rival. The street itself is broader, the sidewalks 
 wider, while the press of vehicles and the throngs 
 of fashion are fully equal. 
 
 California Street. — At right angles with both 
 these streets, and intersecting them near their cen- 
 tre, California street, the Wall street of San Fran- 
 cisco, runs straight down from one of- the highest 
 summits within the city limits, to withjn two blocks 
 of the water front, and there debouches into Mar- 
 ket. Its upper portion lies between elegant private 
 residences ; half way down the slope stand two of 
 the leading city churches ; below, the Alia office, 
 and leading telegraph offices ; thence from Mont- 
 gomery down, the finest number of business blocks 
 the city presents. On this street below Montgom- 
 ery, the Bank of California, the Merchants' Ex- 
 change, the Pacific Insurance Company's Building, 
 Hayward's, Duncan's, and Wormser's, with other 
 blocks and buildings, present a continuous front of 
 architectural beauty rarely equaled. 
 
i6o BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE. 
 
 Market Street. — This broad, dividing avenue 
 which separates the older city from the nev^er, 
 offers a rare architectural medley to the exploring 
 tourist's eye. Some of the grandest business blocks 
 on the Pacific slope tower up between or stand 
 squarely opposite the frailest wooden shells that 
 yet survive the " early days." Running up from 
 the water, one encounters such noble blocks as 
 Treadwell's, not lofty but broad, deep and strong. 
 Harpending's whole-block front. The Grand 
 Hotel and Nucleus foretell the size and style of the 
 blocks which are 3*et to form continuous fronts 
 along this main artery of trade. 
 
 Second, Third and Fourth Streets. — South of 
 Market, these streets come nearer to fashionable 
 streets than/in}^ others; especially along the blocks 
 nearer to Market. They j^resent several single 
 buildings of notable size and style. 
 
 The Best Time. — For any walk or drive within 
 the city limits, or on the entire San Francisco 
 peninsular, the most comfortable hours of all the 
 day, during the season in which the touiists com- 
 monly visit us, that is from May to September, are, 
 unquestionably, the morning hours; the earlier the 
 better. If you would see men and women go 
 later; take the afternoon, face the wind and the 
 dust, be lifted bodily off your feet, round "Cape 
 Horn," as they call the southeast corner of Market 
 and Third streets, until you have quite enough of 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. i6i 
 
 that ''free-soil" wliicli may be a very fine thing in 
 politics, but is a " beastly disagreeable thing," as 
 our English friends might say, on a promenade. 
 
 Drives. 
 
 The Clief House Road. — Stretches westerly from 
 the city limits, now the west end of Bush street, to 
 the Pacific Ocean beach — originall}" a mere trail 
 over shifting sand hills. It has become the broad- 
 est, hardest, smoothest and, longest track in the 
 State. If you want an idea of California horse- 
 flesh, and San Francisco turnouts, trot out this 
 way almost an}^ day. The track has a fine, hard 
 surface wide enough, in places, for twenty teams 
 abreast, and is often nearly filled from side to side 
 with smooth-rolling or friendly racing teams, from 
 the natty single buggy to the elegant coach, or the 
 stately four-in-hand. A million dollars' worth of 
 legs and wheels flash by a man in a very few hours 
 on this fashionable drive, especially on a race-day. 
 Along this road are one or two wayside inns, which, 
 like the majority of California inns, are chiefly 
 drinking-houses under another name* At the end 
 stands the Cliff House, so named from its site, 
 the solid top of a precipitous rocky bluff or 
 cliff, overlooking the Seal Eocks, a few hun- 
 dred feet west; then a thirty-mile horizon of 
 the Pacific Ocean, broken only by the sharp 
 rocky points of the Farallones low down under the 
 
1 62 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 western sky, visible only wlieu fogs and mists and 
 haze are wanting. Attached to the house are long- 
 horse sheds which shut off the wind from your 
 horse Avhile his driver goes in to interview Fouler, 
 mine host of the Cliff. South of the Cliff the road 
 goes down to and out upon the Ocean House, 
 which differs little from the poi)ular eastern beach 
 drives, except that it is not as wide even at the 
 lowest of the tide, and that the ocean view thence 
 is far more seldom ^ diversified with sails: The 
 beach ' and surf are good, however, and a brisk 
 drive of two or three miles upon it, seldom fails to 
 put the oxygen into the lungs — the iodine into 
 the blood, and the exhilaration into the spirits. 
 Some two or three miles south of the Cliff House, 
 the road bends east, leaves the beach and starts 
 back to the ciij by another wa^^ known as the 
 
 Ocean House Road, named, like the other, from 
 the house standing near its seaward end. Ap- 
 proaching the city by this route, one reaches a 
 greater height than by the Cliff House road, and 
 when about two miles from the city, enjoj's a beauti- 
 ful view of the southern and western city, the ship- 
 ping, the bay, the opposite shore, the trailing cities 
 and towns, whose houses gleam between the- trees 
 of Contra Costa and Alameda counties, with their 
 grassy foot-hills, the whole view backed and bound- 
 ed by old Mt. Diablo beyond. Returning by this 
 road, one enters the city suburbs upon the south- 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 163 
 
 west b}^ Seventeenth, or Corbett street, passes di- 
 rectly by the Mission with the famous old church 
 which named it, and pursues his way back to the 
 centre by Market, Mission, Howard or Folsom 
 streets. Between the Cliff House and Ocean House 
 roads, and nearer the latter, private enterprise has 
 recently constructed a third track, known as the 
 Central Ocean Drive. 
 
 Bay Yiew Eoad. — Drive from Market street along 
 Third to the Long Bridge, cross that to the Potrero, 
 keep straight on through the deej) cut, over the 
 Islais bridge, thence through South San Francisco, 
 up a little rise, from whose summit you look down 
 into a little valley or green bay of vegetable gar- 
 dens, between which and the water stands the Bay 
 View House, on one side of the Bay View race 
 track. From several points as you drive out, you 
 will readily understand why they used the phrase 
 *' Bay View" so frequently in naming localities 
 hereabout. If you wish to return by another way, 
 drive half a mile beyond the track, where your way 
 runs into the older road of early times. If you have 
 time, drive on to the brow of the hill and look down 
 into Visitacion Valley ; if not, at the acute angle 
 where the roads become one, you turn sharply 
 back, and after two miles of slightly uneven road, 
 enter the city between the eastern edge of the Mis- 
 sion flats and the western foot of the Potrero hills. 
 
 The best time for all these drives, as already said 
 
i64 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 concerning the promenades, is morning, the earlier 
 the better. Besides the greater purity and fresh- 
 ness of the air, everj^where accom]3anying the morn- 
 ing hours, one then escapes the wind and dust 
 which, on nearly every afternoon, constitute the 
 chief drawback from the full enjoyment of outdoor 
 pleasure during those hours. 
 
 Libraries. 
 
 In these windy and dusty afternoons, when na- 
 ture seems to frown, art and literature invite you 
 within, and proffer quiet retreats with the best of 
 company — good books. For a city as 3'oung and 
 as distinctively absorbed in business, SansFrancisco 
 has amply provided for the gratification of scien- 
 tific research or literary taste. The chief libraries 
 are the Mercantile, the Mechanics' Institute, the 
 Odd Fellows', the Pioneers', and the Y. M. C. A., 
 each of which is located in the building of the same 
 name, presently to be noticed. Besides these, at 
 the What Cheer House, and at Woodward's Gar- 
 dens, one finds two or three thousand well selected 
 standard volumes, free to guests and visitors. 
 
 Public Buildings, 
 
 FEDERAL. 
 
 Post-Office. — The first of these to every tourist 
 is, naturally, the Government building through 
 which his letters come and go. This is a mode- 
 
SAX FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 165 
 
 rately-sized two-stoiy building' of stuccoed brick, 
 running parallel with the west side of Battery street, 
 between Washington and Jackson. One may enter 
 from any street of the three. The ladies' entrance, 
 which is also common, is from Washingion street. 
 The principal business entrance is on the w^est front 
 of the building, through a cross street entered at 
 either end from Washington or Jackson. The 
 office opens daily at 8 a. m., and closes at 6:30 p.m., 
 except Sundays, when its only open hour is from 
 9 to 10 A.M. The great overland mail for New 
 York, by the way of Salt Lake and Omaha, closes 
 every week day at 7:30 a. m., aiid on Saturdays at 
 3 p. M. N. B. Stone, P. M. 
 
 The Custom House is simply the upper floor of 
 the Post-office building. Entrance on Battery, 
 near Washington. Timothy G. Phelps, Collector. 
 
 U. S. Branch Mint. — The old building still occu- 
 pied, and likely to be for at least a year, stands on 
 the north side of Commercial, near Montgomery. 
 Office hours from 9 a. m. to 2 p. m. Visitors re- 
 ceived daily from 9 to 12. O. H. La Grange, Su- 
 perintendent. 
 
 The New Mint, or what is to be that building, 
 stands on the northwest corner of Fifth and Mission 
 streets. Its ground dimensions are 221J feet on 
 Fifth, by 166J feet on Mission street. The base- 
 ment is already built of California granite. Above 
 the basement, which is 13J feet high, the w^alls are 
 
1 66 BANCROFTS TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 built of blue-gray freestone, from Newcastle Island 
 in the Gulf of Georgia, between Vancouver's Island 
 and the mainland of British Columbia. Thus, Un- 
 cle Sam is building his new Mint of British stone. 
 Two stories of 18 J feet each will surmount the 
 high basement. The lower of these is now nearly 
 completed. From the pavement to the crown of 
 the roof will be 70 feet; Two chimneys will tower 
 to the height of 150 feet. 
 
 The U. S. Maeine Hospital stands at the north- 
 east corner of Harrison and Main streets, u^^on the 
 northeast slope of Rincon Hill. This is the old 
 building. The hospital also occupies the former 
 buildings of the Deaf and Dumb Asjdum, on the 
 southeast corner of Mission and Fifteenth streets. 
 
 CITY AND COUNTY BUILDINGS. 
 
 Old City Hall. — This famous old brick and 
 stucco, two-story, earthquake-cracked, and iron- 
 braced structure, with the adjoining Hall of 
 Records, stretches along the east side of Kearny 
 street froni Merchant to Washington, and extends 
 nearly a third of the block down each of those 
 streets. The j)olice-offices and lock-ups occupy 
 the basement, while the usual District Court rooms, 
 with Judges' Chambers and municipal offices, Su- 
 pervisors' and Board of Education rooms, fill the 
 upper floors, and clamor for more room. 
 
 The New City Hall thus far exists only on 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 167 
 
 paper. The Commissioners have chosen an elabo- 
 rate plan for a costly edifice, which will far surpass 
 anything on the coast in architectural beauty; but 
 the execution of that plan has hardly yet completed 
 the excavation for the foundation walls. Hence it 
 is yet too early to tantalize the tourist with descrip- 
 tions of a beautiful building not yet visible, except in 
 the architect's drawing, or the lithographic copies. 
 If any tourist is curious to see the si/e, he may find it 
 by going out Market street till he reaches what vras 
 known as Yerba Buena Park; corner of Market 
 and Seventh streets. The City Hall Commissioners 
 adopted the plans and specifications of Mr. Augus- 
 tus Laver, of New York, and elected him architect; 
 but, at the present rate of progress, it is hardly 
 probable that less than two -or three years will 
 witness the completion of the urgently -needed and 
 magni^cently-designed new City Hall. 
 
 Jail. — On the north side of Broadway, between 
 Dupont and Kearny, one desirous of inspecting 
 our penal institutions may find ample op2:)ortunity to 
 study the physiognomy of that class which inhab- 
 its them, and learn the crimes which preponderate 
 in the Pacific metropolis. Sheriff, P. J. White. 
 
 Almshouse. — This as^dum occupies one of the 
 healthiest locations in the State, near the Ocean 
 House, or San Miguel road, about four and one 
 quarter miles southwest of the City Hall. M. J. 
 Keating, Superintendent. 
 
1 68 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 Industrial School. — This finely-constructed, con- 
 veniently-arranged and T^^ell-managed reform school, 
 stands on the western slope of the peninsula hills, 
 about seven miles southwest of the city. Like the 
 Almshouse it has as healthful a location as can be 
 found in the State. It receives only boys, who are 
 regularly taught b}" competent teachers, and em- 
 ployed in various indoor occupations or out-door 
 work. Present number of inmates, two hundred and 
 twelve. The order and discipline of this school 
 vf ell repay a visit. Jno. C. Pelton, Superintendent. 
 
 Engine Houses. — In early days, before the estab- 
 lishment of homes, the pioneer firemen seemed to love 
 their machine very much as the sailor loves his ship. 
 They built elegant and costly engine houses, which 
 became to many of tlnem the only homes the}^ ever 
 knew. Since the introduction of the improved 
 steam fire engines, and the organization of the paid 
 fire department, the glory of the old volunteer or- 
 ganizations has well nigh departed. But their 
 houses yet remain, some of them converted to other 
 uses, while others still retain much of their earlier 
 attractiveness. 
 
 Eight first-class steamers, of the Amoskeagmake, 
 weighing from three to four tons each, throwing 
 four hundred gallons a minute, each costing from 
 four to five thousand dollars in gold coin, and 
 manned by twelve men, make up the present paid 
 fire department. At a public trial a week since. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 169 
 
 New York and Philadelphia witnesses voluntarily 
 and unanimously testified that they had never seen 
 machines reach the spot as soon and get a stream 
 upon the flames as quickly, as did the machines of 
 our fire department. This fact may conduce to the 
 sense of security with which the eastern tourist lies 
 down to sleep in his strange bed. For the benefit 
 of any extra nervous gentleman, w^e may add the 
 universal rule of conduct in regard to midnight 
 alarms of fire among us, is this : "When waked by 
 a fire-alarm, place 3^our hand against the nearest 
 wall. If it feels cold, lie still ; if moderately warm, 
 order a different room at once ; if positively ]iot^ 
 leave for another hotel immediately. 
 
 COKPOKATION AND SOCIETY BUILDINGS. 
 
 The* Pioneer's Building. — A finely proportioned 
 building on the corner of Gold and Montgomery 
 streets, above Jackson. This building is not as note- 
 worthy as the society which built and chiefly oc- 
 cupies it. The famous " Society of California 
 Pioneers" was formed in August, 1850. Its con- 
 stitution declares its object to be: 
 
 ' ' To cultivate the social virtues of its members ; 
 
 " To collect and preserve information connected 
 with the early settlement of the countiy; and 
 
 ' ' To perpetuate the memory of those whose 
 sagacity, energy and love of independence induced 
 them to settle in the wilderness and become the 
 germs of a new State." 
 
1 70 BAXCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 It includes three classes: 1st. Native Cali- 
 fornians; foreigners living in California before the 
 American conquest; and citizens of the United 
 States who became actual residents here before 
 January 1st, 1849 — with the male descendants of 
 these. 
 
 2d. Citizens of the United States who became 
 actual residents of California before January 1st, 
 1850, and their male descendants. 
 
 3d. Honorary members admitted according to 
 the by-laws. The society has enrolled over 1,300 
 members. Its historical library and museum well 
 rej)a3" a ^isit. Charles D. Carter, President. 
 
 Merchant's Exchange. — This building, the com- 
 mercial headquarters of the mercantile arm}" of the 
 Pacific, stands on the south side of California street, 
 between Montgomery and Sansome. It ranks 
 among the largest and finest architectural orna- 
 ments of the cit3\ , 
 
 Bank of California. — Northwest corner of Cali- 
 fornia and Sansome. This elegant stone structure 
 is not remarkable for size; but for broad and deej) 
 foundations, slow and strong construction, harmo- 
 nious proportions, convenient arrangements and 
 admirable finish within and without, it ranks 
 among the finest and most costl}' business build- 
 ings in the Union. President, D. O. Mills. 
 Cashier, William C. Ralston. 
 
 Mercantile Library Building. — North side of Bush 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 171 
 
 street, between Montgomery and Sansonie. This is 
 the building for which the great letter}^ paid. It 
 presents a noble front, a finety finished interior, 
 with library room containing over 30,000 volumes, 
 reading room, magazine room, reference room, 
 chess room, with a large ladies' room of remarkably 
 costly and tasteful furnishing. The hall in the 
 basement, has already been noticed. Ogden Hoff- 
 man, President; Alfred Stebbins, Librarian. 
 
 Mechanics' Institute Building. — South side of 
 Post street, just below Kearny. A well-propor- 
 tioned, substantially built, sensible-looking build- 
 ing, and so far truthfull}^ indicative of the health- 
 ful prosperity of the excellenj} organization which 
 Qwns and occupies it. A library of nearly 20,000 
 volumes, including many rare and costly scientific 
 works, a large and well-stocked reading room, a 
 sort of museum, including mineralogical cabinets, 
 mechanical models, scientific apparatus and works 
 of art, with a popular business college, occupy 
 this valuable building. The commodious hall upon 
 the lower floor, has been previously described. 
 
 Mechanics' Pa^^llion. — Union Square, between 
 Geary and Post streets on the south and north, 
 and Stockton and Powell streets on the east and 
 w^est. One of the largest, if nol the largest, wooden 
 buildings now standing in America, covering two 
 and one half acres of ground; originally erected 
 by the Mechanics' Institute Association, for the 
 
172 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 accommodation of tlieir biennial fairs, and found 
 almost indispensably convenient for all grander 
 gatherings; it lias since been retained, and success- 
 ively occupied by fairs, grand masquerade balls, 
 velocipede schools and skating rinks. The most 
 notable event occurring under its mammoth roof 
 was the Grand Musical Festival or Gift Concert, in 
 aid of the Mercantile Library Association, given 
 under the lead of Madame Camilla Urso. After 
 the ap2:>roaching Mechanics' Fair, to be held this 
 summer, the building is to be removed. 
 
 Masonic Temple. — Upon the west side of Mont- 
 gomer}^ at the corner of Post; of j)eculiar and at- 
 tractive architecture, imposing proportions and 
 elegant finish, it justly ranks among the most 
 prominent buildings of the city. 
 
 Odd Fellows' Hall. — Montgomery street, be- 
 tween Pine and California. Not particularly im- 
 posing from without, but attractive from the unity, 
 strength and benificence of the Order which it 
 represents. Within are a library of nearly 20,000 
 standard and popular volumes, a well-supplied 
 reading-room, and a well-managed savings' bank. 
 
 Y. M. C. A. — This quartette of initials has now 
 become so well known throughout the larger cities of 
 the Union, that the visitor in an}^ large city is dis- 
 appointed if he does not find the local habitation of 
 this fast-spreading bond of unity among all good 
 men. Here, upon Sutter street, just above Kearny, 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 173 
 
 he will be agreeably disappointed to discover a 
 lai'ge, new, stone-front building, unique in design, 
 and most pleasing in its general effect. Within are 
 libraiy, reading-rooms, hall, gymnasium, and 
 several convenient lodging-rooms. Chas. Goodall, 
 President; H. L. Chamberlain, Librarian. 
 
 Business Buildings and Blocks. 
 
 Alta California Building — On the south side of 
 California street, betweeji Montgomery and Kearny. 
 Its comparatively great height, as related to its 
 width, give it a somewhat monumental appearance, 
 not inappropriate, however, when we remember that 
 the whole tasteful structure stands as the monu- 
 ment of the enterprise, energy, perseverance and 
 success of the oldest and largest paper published 
 in the State. Fred. MacCrellish & Co., proprie- 
 tors. 
 
 Bancroft's — South side of Market street, between 
 Third and Fourth. Few business buildings upon 
 the continent combine the colossal proportions with 
 the graceful details of this mammoth house of the 
 oldest and largest publishing firm upon the coast. 
 
 DoNOHOE, Kelly & Co.'s Building — Upon the 
 southeast corner of Montgomery and Sacramento 
 streets, deserves mention among the finest business 
 buildings. 
 
 Harpending's Block — On the south side of Mar- 
 ket street, between First and Second; the longest 
 
174 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 and loftiest business front presented by any single 
 business block in the city. 
 
 Murphy, Grant & Go's. Building — Northeast 
 corner of Bush and Sansome. A large and hand- 
 some building, as strong as iron, stone and brick 
 can make it. 
 
 ToBiN, Dixon & Davisson's Building — Northwest 
 corner of Sansome and Sutter, can hardly be 
 omitted from the inspection of our finest business 
 houses. 
 
 Tread well's Agricultural Warehouse — South 
 side of Market street, opposite Front. Not lofty, 
 but broad; not imposing, but extensive. 
 
 Tucker's — Northwest corner of Montgomeiy 
 and Sutter. Lofty, finely-proportioned, monu- 
 mental, and substantial; surmounted by a clock- 
 tower, which has become one of the landmarks of 
 the city. The main salesroom within is beautifully 
 frescoed and fitted throughout with extreme ele- 
 gance and at great cost. 
 
 The White House — Corner of Kearn}' and Post 
 streets. An elegant new iron and brick structure, 
 light, airy and ornamental in its general efiect. 
 Receives its name from its color, which has hitherto 
 been an uncommon one in this city, but is daily 
 becoming less so. Occupied chieflj^ by the leading 
 dry goods firm of J. W. Davidson & Co. 
 
 Wells, Fargo & Co's. Building — Corner of 
 California and Montgomery streets. Who does not 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 175 
 
 know it ? Solid granite blocks, dressed in^China, 
 brought liitlier in ships, and j)ilecl in stern sim- 
 plicity upon that central corner to outstand all 
 earthquake shocks, and survive all business wrecks. 
 A pioneer building v\'hich has already become far 
 too small for its immense business, but ought never 
 to be taken down until the whole city goes with it. 
 
 Manufactories. 
 
 Kimball Car and Carriage Factory. — Corner of 
 Bryant and Fourth streets. Eastern visitors call 
 this the largest establishment of the kind in America. 
 In immense extent, convenient arrangement, and 
 comprehensiveness of scope, it can hardly be sur- 
 passed. Its latest trium23h is the construction of a 
 magnificent Palace Car, built wholly of California 
 woods, undisguised by paint, carving, gilding, or 
 varnish — the most complete and suj^erb palace 
 on wheels ever built. Thirt^^-five different woods 
 enter into its construction, disj)laying a variety of 
 structure and a range of harmonious tints hardly 
 imaginable by those who have seen only the poor 
 imitations of feeble art. The car is a triumph of 
 taste and skill, and is worth a half -day's time of 
 any tourist simj^ly to study and enjoy it. It has 
 been proposed that the merchants of this city buy 
 it, and present it to the President of the United 
 States — to the office, not the incumbent — to be kej^t 
 at Washiiifi-ton, and used as the official car for all 
 
176 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 Presidential tours. A better idea could hardly be 
 suggested. May the motion prevail ! 
 
 The Pacific Eolling Mills stand upon the 
 point of the Potrero. The}^ include all tlie massive 
 machinery of their ponderous business, and turn 
 out heavy castings, forgings, and railroad iron by 
 hundreds of tons daily. 
 
 The Mission Woolen Mills — Folsom street, cor- 
 ner of Sixteenth. Here are made those wonderful 
 blankets of such marvelous fineness and thickness, 
 which have attracted so much attention, and re- 
 ceived even the World's Fair premium abroad. 
 
 Foundries and Iron "Works. 
 
 Union Iron Works. — The oldest and largest in 
 California, employing three hundred and thirty 
 men, and turning out the heaviest and most perfect 
 mining and railroad machineiy, locomotives, etc. 
 Located on the northeast corner of Mission and 
 First streets. H. J. Booth & Co. 
 
 KisDON Iron and Locomotive Works, southeast 
 corner of Howard and Beale streets. Has all 
 the latest mechanical improvements of the business. 
 Can turn out a shaft forty-eight feet long, and 
 weighing thirty tons. It employs two hundred and 
 sevent3'-five hands. John N. Risdon, president. 
 
 The Fulton, Miners', and Pacific Foundries, with 
 the Etna and Vulcan Iron Works, are the other 
 leading ones of the coast. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND vicinity: 177 
 
 Shot Tower and Lead "Works. 
 
 Corner of Howard and First streets. The pioneer 
 
 and, thus far, the only works u^Don the coast. The 
 
 tower is one of the most prominent ^nd sightly 
 
 objects visible in all the water approaches to the 
 
 city. 
 
 Sugar Reflneries. 
 
 The city has four: The Sail Francisco and Paci- 
 fic, Bay, California, and Golden Gate, turning 
 out twenty thousand tons of sugar annually. 
 
 Sliip Yards. 
 
 At North Beach and at the Potrero are the prin- 
 cipal yards. They build mainly river steamers or 
 ferry boats, or smaller ocean craft, rarely construct- 
 ing anything above three hundred tons. For 
 larger craft it is cheaper to go north, where 
 immense forests of the finest shij^-timber run clear 
 down to the ocean beach, and stand asking to be 
 built into ships. 
 
 Glass Works. 
 
 Two: one in the city, on the south side of Town- 
 send, between Third and Fourth; and the other, 
 the Pacific Glass works, on the Potrero, at the 
 corner of Iowa and Mariposa streets. These con- 
 fine their works chiefly to bottles, telegraph caps, 
 etc. 
 
 Churclies. 
 
 Baptist. — This prominent denomination has six 
 
178 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 cliurcli buildings iu the city. The First Baptist 
 Church claims special space from the fact that it 
 was the first Protestant house of worship dedicated 
 in California. This was in August, 1849. The 
 present building of stuccoed brick, pccupies the 
 original site of the first small, wooden pioneer 
 church — on the north side of Washington street, 
 between Stockton and^Dupont. Rev, A. E. Med- 
 bmy. Pastor. 
 
 CoxgeectAtional. — This denomination has the 
 honor of having furnished the first settled Protest- 
 ant chaplain in San Francisco, Rev. T. D wight 
 Hunt. He held the rare position of "Citizens' 
 Chaplain," Nov. 1st, 1848, conducting Divine wor- 
 ship every Sunday in the " Public Institute," (the 
 school-house) on Portsmouth Square — the Plaza. 
 The citizens unitedly invited him from Honolulu, 
 and paid him $2,500 a year. The denomination 
 has four church buildings- -named by their order 
 of erection. The First Congregational Church is 
 on the southwest corner of California and Dupont 
 streets. The pastor is Rev. Dr. Stone, formerly of 
 the Park street church, Boston. 
 
 Episcopal. — This denomination has five church 
 buildings, of which Grace Church, corner of Cali- 
 fornia and Stockton streets, is the oldest and larg- 
 est. The building is 135 feet long, 62 feet v/ide 
 and ^^ feet high. Its gi-eat size and sightly location 
 make it one of the prominent buildings in any 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 179 
 
 general view of the cit}^ Eev. James S. Busli, 
 Rector. The four other Episcopal church build- 
 iugs are — Trinity, St. John's, Church of the Advent, 
 and St. Luke's. 
 
 Hebrew. — Synagogue of the Congregation 
 Emanu-el, Sutter street, between Stockton and 
 Powell. Of the five Jewish congregations, this has 
 "The Synagogue" par excellence — the one always 
 meant when one speaks of " The Jewish Syna- 
 gogue." It is an elegant and costty structure, built 
 of brick, not yet stuccoed, su23porting two promi- 
 nent towers, and finished within in most appropri- 
 ate and artistic style. Total cost, including lot, 
 $185,000, gold coin. 
 
 Methodist. — This popular, powerful and rapidly 
 growing denomination has already erected eleven 
 church buildings in San Francisco — more than any 
 other Protestant Church, except the Presbyterians. 
 Its newest and most elegant church is the First 
 Methodist Episcopal Church, on the west side of 
 Powell, between Washington and Jackson. This 
 is one of the most elegant and really artistic 
 churches, within and without, any where to be 
 found. Eev. Dr. Cox, Pastor. 
 
 Howard Street M. E. Church. — South side of 
 Howard, between Second and Third. This is the 
 most substantial and valuable building owned by 
 the denomination. Value, including lot and par- 
 
i8o BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 sonage, $100,000. Its sWle is medieval gotliic. 
 Pastor, Rev. L. Walker. 
 
 Pkesbyteeian. — This recently united denomina- 
 tion, no longer old and new scliool, lias also eleven 
 churcli buildings; of these the tw^o most noted are 
 the Calvar}^ Presbyterian Church, corner of 
 Gear}^ and Powell streets. This church is as capa- 
 cious and comfortable, even luxurious within, as the 
 most fastidious could desire. Its organ is the 
 largest and finest on the coast. Rev. J. Hemphill, 
 Pastor. 
 
 Howard Presbyterian Church, Mission street, 
 near Third; lately. Rev. Dr. Scudder's. This 
 building, with a plain and unpretentious ex- 
 terior, has greater seating capacity than any other 
 Protestant church in the city. It is of recent con- 
 struction and very convenient internal arrange- 
 ments. Temporary pastor, Rev. J. K. Kendall. 
 
 Fii'st Presbyterian Church — On the west side of 
 Stockton, between Washington and Clay. This 
 gothic building is one of the largest and finest — 
 but its chief claim to notice here, rests upon the 
 fact that the church which built it, organized May 
 20th, 1849, under the direction of the Rev. Albert 
 Williams, was the first Protestant church organized 
 in San Francisco. 
 
 RoiMAN Catholic. — St. Patrick's Church, on the 
 north side of Mission, between Third and Fourth 
 streets. Although so new that it is not yet fin- 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. i8i 
 
 islied, tills church is set first, because it is the 
 largest in the State, being one hundred and sixty 
 feet long by eighty feet wide. Its spire is the 
 loftiest and most beautifully^ proportioned in the 
 city, height 240 feet. Rev. Peter J. Grrey, Pastor. 
 
 St. Mary's Cathedral, California street, at the 
 northeast corner of Dupont. In age, cost and rank 
 this building is entitled to the first place. It is a 
 noble structure of Gothic architecture, which has 
 been carried out in every detail. The front extends 
 seventj^-five feet on California street, from which 
 the cathedral runs back one hundred and thirty-one 
 f feet on Dupont. The tower is at present one hun- 
 dred and thirty-five feet high, and is to be sur- 
 mounted by a spire rising sixty-five feet further. 
 The Most Rev. Joseph S. Alemany is the A-i'ch- 
 bishop. 
 
 Old Mission Church, on the southwest corner of 
 Sixteenth and Dolores streets. This was dedicated 
 Oct. 9, 1776, b}^ Father Junipero Serra, the father 
 of the California missions. Aside from its age and 
 associations, the building is of little note. It is 
 built of the old adobes, which were simply unburnt 
 bricks dried in the sun, and formed a favorite build- 
 ing material with the early Spanish and Mexican 
 inhabitants. The old custom-house, on Portsmouth 
 square, was built of this material. The roof was 
 covered with semi-cylindrical tiles of burnt clay, 
 laid in altern'ate rows, the first one having the con- 
 
i82 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 cave side up, and the next its convex side up. Tlie 
 outside, generally, is very plain, tliougli tlie front 
 sliows some old-fashioned round columns, and a 
 few small bells suspended in square apertures under 
 the projecting, roof. The interior is dark, cold and 
 comfortless. Rev. Thos. Gushing, Pastor. 
 
 Besides the three churches already named, the 
 Catholics have nine others in the city, in addition 
 to five or six chapels and as^dums. 
 
 SwEDENBOKGiAN. — First Ncw Jerusalcm Church. 
 This is a very neat Gothic building, on the north 
 side of O'Farrell, between Mason and Taylor 
 streets. Rev. John Doughty, Pastor. 
 
 A second New Jerusalem Church, of which Rev. 
 Joseph Worcester is pastor, having j-et erected no 
 buiUling, meets in the Druids' Hall, No. 413 Sutter 
 street. 
 
 Unitaeian. — First Unitarian Church. This most 
 beautiful church edifice stands upon the south side 
 of Geary street, just below Stockton. Its front pre- 
 sents, unquestionably, the finest specimen of chui'ch 
 architecture in the State, and can haj'dly be sur- 
 passed in America. The interior is tastefully deco- 
 rated with a colored fresco of extreme beaut}^, and 
 most artistic harmony of tint. The organ, baj)- 
 tismal font, and the pulpit, perpetuate the unique 
 taste of the lamented pastor, whose loved name the 
 public mind cannot dissociate from the beautiful 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 183 
 
 building, wliicli, always known as " Starr King's" 
 cliurch, has become liis fitting monument. 
 
 This is the only church building of this denom- 
 ination in the city or the State, 
 
 Chinese Mission House. — This is a combination 
 church and school-house, new, neat and commo- 
 dious, fifty-six feet by seventy feet, and three stories 
 high. i^djoining school-rooms, readily throvv^n 
 into one, rooms for the Superintendent, Rev. Mr. 
 Gibson and family, and for his assistant, Rev. Hu 
 Sing Me,, the native preacher, and his family, occu- 
 py the various floors. School "keej^s" every even- 
 ing in the week, except Saturda}^ and Sunday. 
 Bible class at half -past ten every Sunday morning, 
 and Sunday school at seven p. m. 
 
 The entire property belongs to the Methodist 
 Church, who maintain it as a most efficient home 
 mission. 
 
 The Mariner's Church, northeast corner of Sacra- 
 mento and Drumm streets. It is a neat and com- 
 modious wooden building, erected in 1867, by 
 contributions from merchants and other citizens of 
 San Francisco. Rev. J. Rowell, Pastor. 
 
 Hospitals and Asylums. 
 
 City and County Hospital. — Stands upon the 
 southwest corner of Stockton and Francisco streets. 
 
 French Benevolent Society. — Has one of the 
 finest hospitals of the State, a large and handsome 
 
1 84 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 brick building, surrounded witli pleasant gardens and 
 ornamented grounds, occupying the ^vliole block on 
 the south side of Bryant, between Fifth and Sixth, 
 making a most agreeable and healthful home for 
 the invalid. Others besides French may receive 
 its benefits, by assuming membership and paying its 
 moderate dues. 
 
 German General Benevolent Society. — Admits 
 only Germans. It has over eighteen hundred 
 members. On Brannan street, near Third, this 
 society has a very large two-story brick building 
 with basement — furnished with every form of bath, 
 and looking out upon fine gardens and shrubbery. 
 
 Protestant Orphan Asylum. — On the West side of 
 Laguna street, between Haight and AValler. A 
 large and elegant building of brick and stone — 
 one of the ornamental landmarks of that ^^^xi of 
 the city. It accommodates two hundred and fifty 
 little ones. Mrs. Ira P. Rankin, President; Mrs. 
 Lucy Stewart, Matron. 
 
 Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum. — Market street, 
 south side, between New^ Montgomery and Third. 
 A noble and capacious brick building accommo- 
 dating three hundred and twenty children, 
 and having a school of five hundred and fifty 
 day scholars attached. The Asylum is under the 
 sole management of Archbishoj) Alemany and the 
 Sisters of Charity. 
 
 San Francisco Female Hospital. — Corner of Clay 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 185 
 
 street and Prospect Place. Any woman who is 
 sick and poor, lias a right to its benefits. It is 
 a genuine charity, regarding neither nativity, relig- 
 ion nor social rank. Mrs. M. E. Koberts, Presi- 
 dent; Dr. C. T. Deane, Physician. , 
 
 Ladies' Protection and Pelief Society. — Frank- 
 lin street, between Post and Geary. The main 
 object of the society is to furnish a real Home for 
 friendless or destitute girls, between three and four- 
 teen years old. Boys, under ten and over three, 
 may be received and provided for until furnished 
 with a permanent home in a christian family. It 
 has over two hundred inmates, nearly all girls. 
 Miss C. A, Harmon, Matron. 
 
 Nearly a hundred other public and private 
 benevolent societies attempt to make up, as well as 
 possible, the lack of friends and homes, always so 
 severely felt by strangers or temporary residents in 
 any large city, and especially so in one of as cos- 
 mopolitan a character as ours. 
 
 Colleges. 
 
 Besides the larger public schools, which are 
 really the peoples' colleges — the city has sixty-five 
 colleges and private schools. The number of 
 pupils attending them in 1870 was 4,582, against 
 21,000 in the public schools. 
 
 City College. — Southeast corner of Stockton 
 and Geaiy streets. This institution has built and 
 
1 86 BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE. 
 
 furnished an elegant French Gothic building at 
 University Mound, some three miles southwest 
 of the city, which it will occupy early in '72. Be- 
 sides the usual studies, this college especially pro- 
 vides the best facilities for obtaining a thorough 
 practical knowledge of Chemistr}^, in all its ap- 
 plications to assaj'ing, mining, medical manufac- 
 tures and mechanics. Rev. Dr. Veeder, President. 
 
 Heald's Business College. — College Buildingj 
 Post street, between Montgomery and Kearny. 
 Its design is to educate boys and young men, with 
 a special view to practical business. It is one of 
 the famous thirtj'-six Bryant and Stratton Business 
 Colleges, located in the leading cities of the United 
 States and Canada. Students, two hundred and 
 fifty. E. P. Heald, President. 
 
 St. Ignatius' College. — Occupies the noble brick 
 building on the south side of Market street, be- 
 tween Fourth and Fifth. It is largely attended, 
 and is successfully conducted by the Jesuit 
 Fathers. 
 
 St. Mary's College. — On the old county road to 
 San Jose, four and a half miles southwest of the 
 city. Building, two hundred and eighty feet front, 
 by fifty feet deep — of excellent proportion and 
 fine appearance. Conducted by the Christian 
 Brothers. B. Justin, President. 
 
 Toland Medical College. — East side of Stock- 
 ton street, between Chestnut and Francisco. The 
 
SAN' FRANCISCO A.VD VICINITY. 187 
 
 building is of brick, capacious, commodious, finely 
 located and admirably adapted to tbe purpose of- 
 its construction. H. H. Toland, M. D., President. 
 
 Public School Buildings. 
 
 Lincoln. — Fifth street — soutli side, near Market. 
 Brick structure, four stories bigh, 141 J feet long, 
 63 J feet wide; 20 class-rooms 129x34 feet, besides 
 eigbt wardrobes and teachers' rooms — wide halls, 
 and four broad stairways the whole height, with a 
 large hall in the upper story. It accommodates 
 twelve hundred grammar grade pu]3ils, all boys. 
 In front stands a finely modeled statue of Abraham 
 Lincoln for whom the building was named. Cost, 
 $100,000, gold coin. B. Marks, Principal. 
 
 Denman. — Bush street, north side, corner of 
 Taylor. Brick stuccoed; length, 98 J feet; width, 
 68 feet; height, four stories, including attic rooms. 
 Fourteen class-rooms, each 28x34, accommo- 
 dating eight hundred pupils, all girls. Cost, 
 $78,000, gold. This building was named in honor 
 of James Denman, one of the pioneer public school 
 teachers of the city — the founder of this school and 
 for many years, as at present, its principal. Few 
 cities in the Union can show school buildings as 
 elegant, convenient, substantial and costly as these 
 two noble monuments of public appreciation of, 
 and liberality towards, the system which must 
 underlie and sustain our free government if it is 
 to stand at all. 
 
1 88 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 Tehama. — Tehama street, near First. Brick, un- 
 disguised; 111 feet long, 75 feet deep, three stories 
 high, besides spacious basement play-rooms — has 
 sixteen class-rooms, each 24x31, hall, 41x49, with 
 ample stairings, and convenient teacher's-rooms 
 and ample j-ards. Cost, $28,300, gold. It accom- 
 modates one thoiisand primary pupils of both sexes. 
 Mrs. E. A. Wood, Principal. 
 
 Besides these, the city has several large and fine 
 wooden school-houses of modern structure. Of 
 these the most sightlj^, is the Girls' High School, 
 south side of Bush street, near Stockton — 57x92, 
 three stories, ten class-rooms, 27x34, with an as- 
 sembly hall, 54x55; whose IcDgth can be increased 
 to 90 feet, by opening folding doors between it 
 and two adjoining class-rooms. It is the most con- 
 veniently arranged, best ventilated, sunniest, most 
 cheerful and healthful school-house in the State. 
 Ellis H. Holmes, Principal. To these the De- 
 partment has recently added, and is now adding, 
 four or five 18 class-room buildings, of .wood, 
 each accommodating one thousand pupils, now 
 occupying the old and small school-rooms of early 
 days or hived in unsuitable rented rooms. 
 
 Bancroft's Book and Stationery Establishment. 
 
 It may appear like exaggeration to say that San 
 Francisco contains the largest and most complete 
 general Book and Stationery, mercantile and manu- 
 
SAN FR A A CISCO AND VICINITY. 189 
 
 factiiring business in the world. Yet, such is the 
 fact. Not that the business, by any means, equals 
 that of Harpers' and Appietons', of New York, Hach- 
 ette of Paris, or the stationers of London. But, 
 between these houses and Bancroft's, there is no 
 comparison. The character of their trade is totally 
 different. One publishes books, another manufac- 
 tures paper, and so each is large in one thing, 
 whereas the Bancrofts, collecting from the manu- 
 facturers of all the world, and manufacturing ac- 
 cording to the requirements of their trade, cover 
 under one management the ground occupied by all 
 others combined. In older and larger cities, one 
 house deals in laAv books alone; another, school 
 books, etc., while this San Francisco house— besides 
 a full stock of books in every department of litera- 
 ture, and stationery from the manufacturers of Eu- 
 rope and America, paper from the mills of New 
 England, 23fincils from Germany, pen-holders from 
 Paris — unite Printing, Book-binding, Lithography, 
 Blank-Book Making, Engraving, &c., every thing, 
 in short, comprised in all the business of all the 
 others. 
 
 The detail is necessarily very great. They buy 
 from a thousand sellers, and sell to many thousand 
 buyers. Over one hundred employes, divided into 
 nine departments, each under an experienced man- 
 ager, ply their vocation like bees in a hive of six 
 rooms, each 37 by 170 feet. To the latest improve- 
 
igo BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE. 
 
 ments of tlie finest macliineiy, driven Idj steam, ap- 
 ply the liigliest order of skilled labor, and San 
 Francisco can do anything as ^'ell and as cheaply 
 as New York, London or Paris. 
 
 The retail department, occupying the first floor, 
 has the most magnificent salesroom on the Pacific 
 coast. Visitors are warmly welcomed, and stran- 
 gers politely shown through the premises. 
 * 
 
 Private Residences. 
 
 For the convenience of the tourist, who may want 
 to see the homes of our city as well as her public 
 buildings and business blocks, we mention the 
 locality of the following, which are among the 
 finest of our private dwellings: Erwin Davis, 
 southwest corner of California and Powell streets; 
 Milton S. Latham, Folsom street, opposite Haw- 
 thorne, on Rincon Hill; D. J. Tallant, corner of 
 Bush and Jones street; Richard Tobin, corner of 
 California and Taylor streets; John Parrott, 620 
 Folsom street. By making two tiips — first, over 
 California street, and returning by Sutter or Bush 
 street; second, over Rincon Hill on Folsom street, 
 and returning by Harrison, the visitor may see the 
 finest of our private residences. 
 
 Points of Observation. 
 
 Telegkaph Hill. — This notable natural landmark 
 stands at the head, that is, at the north end of 
 
SA.V FJ^ A AT IS CO AND VICINITY. 191 
 
 Montgomeiy street. The early settlement, the 
 pioneer hamlet from which the present city has 
 grown, was made in the hollow near the southwest 
 foot. Civilization has encircled it on the land side, 
 and crept two thirds the way up, while com- 
 merce has claimed the water front along its oppo- 
 site base — but the summit still stands as free as 
 when the priestly fathers first looked thence upon 
 the glorious inland sea, which flashes between it 
 and the sunrise. Let us climb it — this way, straight 
 up the Montgomery street sidewalk, Slowly, 
 please; we have the day before us; exhausted lungs 
 impair one's sight. Stop at the corner of each 
 intersecting street, and glance either way, but es- 
 pecially eastward — that is, downward toward the 
 Bay. Now, "Excelsior," again; up these stairs;' 
 now along this natural surface — no asphaltum 
 walks or Stow foundation pavements up here yet, 
 you see — on, by these houses; turn to the left here; 
 now to the right, follow this winding way; patiently 
 please — that's it; only two or three minutes more 
 — ah! here it is — this is the highest point, where 
 the old observatory^ stood. Sit and breathe a mo- 
 ment; slip on your overcoat, or put that extra 
 shawl about you; it's easy to take cold here, far 
 easier than to rid yourself of it in the city below. 
 For the sake of method in oiu' survey, we may as 
 well begin at the northwest; thence " swing round 
 the circle," through north, east, south and west, 
 
192 BAXCROPT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 and return to the j^oint of starting. Looking north- 
 westerly, then, we have first the elevated, undu- 
 lating j)lateau, which stretches along the flattened 
 summits of the northermost spur of the broad 
 peninsular hills, and terminates in the precipitous 
 bluff known as Fort Point — the southern gate-post 
 of the far-famed Golden Gate. Through this we 
 gaze seaward along the further margin of the strait, 
 where it sends in a surging cove upon the rocky 
 beach, between Point Diablo and Point Bonita. 
 The projection of the latter point shuts off the 
 vision, which else might range up the northwesterly 
 trend of the coast, along the ocean-shore of Marin 
 county to Punta de los Reyes, (King's Point) which 
 projects southward between Bolinas bay and the 
 ocean. Between Point Diablo and Lime Point, a 
 slight northerly curve in the shore line makes a 
 shallow cove, from whose edge the vision climbs the 
 successive hills or ridges which fill the ascending 
 space as it roughly rises toward the crowning point 
 of Marin county. Mount Tamalpais, two thousand 
 six hundred and four feet nearer heaven than the 
 beach line whence we set forth. Still following 
 round, we look up into Richardson's Bay; next the 
 southwestern end of Raccoon Strait, and then 
 Angel Island. We are noAv looking north. Alca- 
 traz, the rocky island which nature set just there to 
 support a commanding fortress ; then, an eye- 
 sweep up over the northern part of San Francisco 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 193 
 
 Bay to that narrow strait wliicli joins it witli San 
 Pablo Bay; northeast the San Pablo shore of Con- 
 tra Costa county, and the hills which terminate the 
 Mount Diablo peninsular range. Nearer east, 
 the strangely monotonous hills, whose ridges and 
 gullies look as if plowed out by heavy rains, and 
 rounded by sweeping winds. Grassy or earthy, 
 they look, according to the time of year and kind 
 of season. Now, almost east, the vision falls. This 
 large island, off in the midst of the bay, is Yerba 
 Buena, or Goat Island. It rises three hundred and 
 forty feet above low water mark. Nearly in a line 
 over the island appears Berk"eley, the site of the 
 University of California, of which one large build- 
 ing, already two thirds raised, you may possibly 
 discern. A little further south — that is, to the 
 right, you can plainly see the State Asylum for the 
 Deaf and Dumb and Blind. This noble building 
 crowns a gently-sloping eminence just at the mar- 
 gin between the broad and nearly level plain which 
 stretches between it and the bay, and the foothills 
 back of hich the Contra Costa mountains bring 
 up the rear. 
 
 Almost due east lies Oakland, the tree-city of 
 the beautiful grove-dotted j^lain. Then Clinton, 
 San Antonio, Brooklyn and Alameda, snuggled in 
 together so closely that one can't tell " which is 
 which;" and, as far as the beauty of the viev/ is 
 concerned, it doesn't matter either, for they are all 
 
194 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 fair to look upon and lovely to behold. The clus- 
 tering- trees shut out by far the larger portion of 
 the houses, so that we might hardly suspect the 
 size and population of the towns, whose scattered 
 roofs show here and there among the trees. 
 
 We are looking southeasterly now. That creek, 
 whose mouth jo\x see just beyond Alameda, 
 leads into San Leandro bay; and right over it, 
 nearly hidden by intervening trees, lies tlie town of 
 the same name. A little further south, and too dis- 
 tant to be plainly seen, is Hay ward's. That de- 
 pression in the mountain summits beyond, marks 
 the opening of Liveriliore pass, through which the 
 Western Pacifi<3 Eailroad finds its way. 
 
 Beyond Hayward's, further south, and thence 
 sweeping around to the right, toward the extreme 
 end of the bay, we dimly discern the northern end of 
 the beautiful Santa Clara Valley, where it widens 
 out and flattens down to the bay. We are now 
 looking almost due south. Only four miles down, 
 Hunter's Point shuts off our further view, and com- 
 pels us to look nearer home. A trifle west of that, 
 and half as far away, the Potrero presents its trans- 
 verse ridge, fast disaj^pearing under the rapidty- 
 growing city, and showing a gap of dajdight where 
 the deep cut of the Bay View horse railroad was re- 
 lentlessly dug and blasted through, in its stubborn 
 pursuit of a practicable grade. Between the cut 
 and ourselves, the Long Bridge shuts oft' the Mis- 
 
SAA' FRANCISCO AND VICINITY, 195 
 
 sion bay, and shows where the fast-filling mucl-flats 
 will soon crowd back the bay, and make a new 
 water front. Still nearer, we have the western 
 slope or ridge of Eincon Hill, rising gradually to 
 the left, and packed all over with the huddled and 
 mostly wooden houses of the new and hurriedly- 
 built city. Along the inner base of the hill, and 
 stretching out westward, lies the old " Haj^py 
 Valley." That's just this side of where you see the 
 shot-tower, and runs thence four or five blocks to 
 the right. Between that and ourselves, coming 
 over this side of Market street, we have the oldest 
 and most densely-built part of the city, relieved 
 here and there — by the Occidental Hotel, Tucker's 
 tower, the Merchants' Exchange, Murph}^ Grant 
 & €o's. building, and half a dozen others. Now 
 let the vision range away southwest, again begin- 
 ning at the hills and coming in. The bounding 
 hills are Bernal Heights, west of which Fairmount 
 and the adjacent hills merge into the peninsular 
 range, and form a rude amphitheatre, within which 
 nestles the fast-growing southwestern precinct. 
 Coming up toward the west, the twin summits of 
 the Mission peaks slant the vision up against the 
 sky, or plunge it into the fleecy billows of in-rolling 
 ocean fog, which seldom survives the warmer air of 
 the inner basin long enough to roll far down their 
 western slope. Between them and us lies the Mis- 
 sion Dolorfes, grouped around its century-old 
 
196 BA y CROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 church . Northward of the twin-peaks the hills 
 rise in '' promiscuous prominence." A little south 
 of west, that irregularly conical hill, surmounted 
 by a gigantic solitary cross, is the famous " Lone 
 Mountain," about whose lower slopes, and around 
 whose base are grouj)ed so many *' cities of the 
 dead." Thence northerly, to the point whence our 
 survey began, little of note arrests the sight, more 
 than the broad reach of lower hills and sandy 
 dunes, which patiently wait the coming occuj)ation 
 of the westward-growing city. 
 
 Although the point beneath our feet is but three 
 hundred feet high, the panoramic view isvdder and 
 freer than from any other, even the highest hilltop 
 of the city. 
 
 EussiAN Hill, — About one mile west-south ^vtst 
 from Telegraph Hill, on Vallejo street, between 
 Taj'lor and Jones street, Russian Hill rises nearly 
 sixty feet higher, but offers little additional pros- 
 pect. It was formerly surmounted by a sort of 
 cork-screw observatory, a skeleton structure of 
 open frame-work, surrounded by a spiral stairway, 
 whose summit afforded the loftiest lookout Avithin 
 the cit}^ limits. West-nortliwest of this hill, and 
 about three-quarters of a mile from its summit, lies 
 the small lagoon, near which the founders of the 
 early mission first located. 
 
 Clay Stkeet Hill. — Nearly south of Russian 
 Hill, and about three furlongs from it, rises this 
 
SA.V FRANCISCO AND VICINI7 Y. 197 
 
 hill, the highest within the city limits. It is 
 named from the street which runs just south of its 
 summit, or will do so when cut through. The hill 
 is 376 feet high, and is a little over a mile south- 
 west of Telegrapli Hill. The view from its sum- 
 mit differs only in having moved the point of sight 
 a mile southwest, and raised it about 80 feet. 
 
 California Street Hill — This, too, takes its 
 name from that of the neighboring street. It is 
 hardly proper to call it a separate hill as it is but 
 two blocks south of Clay Street Hill, from w^hich 
 only a slight hollow originally separated it. 
 
 KiNCON Hill. — Three quarters of a mile south- 
 west of the City Hall. Its highest point reaches 
 hardly a hundred feet above the bay level. The 
 whole hill originally offered such sightly locations 
 for building that it is covered on nearly all sides, 
 and crowded upon its very height, by some of the 
 most comfortable and home-like residences in the 
 entire city. This fact makes it almost impossible 
 to get an unobstructed view, in all directions, from 
 any part of it. It was a favorite, and almost an 
 aristocratic site for residences, until the heartless 
 greed for gain procured legal authority to excavate 
 the famous " Second Street Cut;" 75 feet deep, 
 which needlessly ruined the beauty of the hill. 
 
 Lone Mountain. — This singularly symmetrical hill 
 stands two and one-half miles w^est of the City 
 Hall, at the head of Bush street. It is 284^ feet 
 
198 BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE. 
 
 high. From its summit rises a solitary cross 
 which, especially near sunset, stands forth against 
 the western sky with peculiar, beautiful effect. The 
 view hence is full of . inspiration and suggestion. 
 None have caught more of these, or embodied them 
 in finer words than Bret Harte, in hisJavorite 
 lines : 
 
 As I stand by the cross on the lone mountain crest, 
 
 Looking over the ultimate sea, 
 In the gloom of the mountain a ship lies at rest, 
 
 And one sails away from the lea; 
 One spreads its white wings on a far-reaching track, 
 
 With pennant and sheet flowing free, 
 One hides in the shadow with sails laid aback — 
 
 The ship that is waiting for me ! 
 
 But lo, in the distance the clouds break away, 
 
 The Gate's glowing portal I see, 
 And I hear, from the out-going ship in the bay, 
 
 The song of the sailors in glee; 
 So I think of the luminous foot-prints that bore 
 
 The comfort o'er dark Galilee, 
 And wait for the signal to go to the shore ; 
 
 To the ship that is waiting for me. 
 
 Mission Piiaks. — The double peaks already men- 
 tioned in our panoramic e^^e-sweep from Telegraph 
 Hill, lying three miles southwest of it, sometimes 
 called the Twin Peaks. They are five hundred and_ 
 ten feet high, and stand four miles southwest of 
 the City Hall. They are the loftiest points in the 
 county; either summit commands a view which 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 199 
 
 well repays the time and labor expended in gain- 
 ing it. 
 
 Beknal Heights. — This name designates a short 
 range of hills nearly five miles west-southwest of 
 the City Hall. Starting near the bay, they run 
 transYe]«6ely, that is, westerly, for about one mile 
 across the peninsula. Their highest point is two 
 hundred and ninety-five feet above the bay. 
 
 The highest point of the Potrero is three hun- 
 dred and twenty-six feet above low tide, and the 
 San Miguel Hills, near the southerly line of the 
 county, reach the height of about four hundred 
 feet. The Pacific Heights, near Alta Plaza, a mile 
 and a half west of the City Hall, are three hundred 
 and seventy-five feet high. 
 
 These are all the natural elevations of note within 
 the city and county. The best artificial outlooks 
 may be had from the roof of the houses standing 
 on or near the summits of those hills which rise 
 within the settled portion. The roof of Bancroft's 
 building, the cupola of the Grand Hotel, the U.S. 
 Military Observatory, on the southwest corner of 
 Third and Market streets, and the Sliot Tower, if 
 you can persuade Mayor Selby to let you up, all 
 afford extensive and beautiful j)i'Ospects. 
 
 Having thus told the tourist all we know about 
 the most feasible and temperate methods of " get- 
 ting high," we leave him to his own direction, only 
 adding that if he isn't satisfied with our efforts in his 
 
200 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 behalf, lie'd better go " uj) in a balloon/' and view 
 our city as the Germans did Paris. 
 
 riov/ to get about. 
 
 The universal, inexpensive, ahvays-ready and 
 democratic way is by the ever-present Horse Cars. 
 Seven different companies have laid about fifty 
 miles of rail in and about the city, and carry one 
 either directly to or within a very short distance of 
 any desired point. 
 
 Lines, Routes and Colors. — The Omnibus and 
 North Beach and Mission R.R. Companies run 
 yellow cars through Third and Fourth, Sansome, 
 Montgomery and Kearney, the central blocks of 
 Stockton, and the northern ends of Powell and 
 Mason. They also run red cars from the centre of 
 the city to the southwestern limits, through How- 
 ard and Folsom streets. 
 
 The Central R.R. Co. runs red cars from the 
 steamboat landings along the city front, through 
 Jackson, Sansome, Bush, and other leading streets 
 to Lone Mountain. Their cars are commonly called 
 the Lone Mountain cars. 
 
 The Front Street and Ocean E-.R. Co. runs green 
 cars from the steamboat landings at the foot of 
 Broadway, up that street, along Battery, Market, 
 Sutter and Polk streets, by Spring Valley to the 
 Presidio, whence ' busses connect for Fort Point, 
 A branch of this road runs through Larkin street 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 
 
 across Market through Ninth to Mission; thus con- 
 necting the western with the southwestern suburbs. 
 Within the year this company has also constructed 
 and put into operation another branch, carrying one 
 to Laurel Hill Cemetery and Lone Mountain. 
 
 The Market Street R.E., the x^ioneer, runs blue 
 cars from the junction of Montgomery and Market 
 street, opposite the Grand Hotel, through Market 
 by the San Jose Depot, and out Valencia to 
 Twenty-sixth. From the junction of Ninth and 
 Larkin street with Market, it sends a branch out 
 through Ha^^es Valley to Hayes Valley Pavilion. 
 
 The City E,. E.. — Lately built, and newly stocked, 
 runs from the west front of Grand Hotel, at the 
 junction of Market and New Montgomery, along 
 the- latter to Mission, thence out Mission to Twenty- 
 Sixth, passing directly by the . entrance to Wood- 
 ward's Gardens, and within one block of the San 
 Jose depot. 
 
 . The Potrero and Bay View R. R. — Connecting 
 with the North Beach and Mission R. R., at the 
 south end of Fourth street, runs thence across the 
 Long Bridge over Mission Bay — thro ugh the Potrero 
 Deep Cut, over the Islais Creek bridge, through 
 South San Francisco to the Bay View Race Track 
 terminus, within half a mile of Hunter's Point and 
 the Dry Dock. 
 
 Times, Fakes, "etc. — Commencing at about 6 p. 
 M., in summer earlier, the cars run at various in- 
 
202 BAiYCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 tervals of from three to seven minutes until 11 and 
 12 o'clock p. M., and on the City K. R., till 1.30 
 the next morning. Nearly all the roads sell tickets, 
 having four coupons attached, for tv>'enty-iive cents 
 each. Every coupon is good for one fare from one 
 end of the city to the other, and the coupon tickets 
 of one company are received by every other. For 
 single fares, paid without coujDons, they usualty 
 charge ten cents. Nearly a year ago the City R. 
 R. started the half-dime fq^re, asking but five cents 
 for a single ride, and the Market street R. R. has 
 also adopted it. "Children occupying seats, full 
 fare." 
 
 Several of the companies issue transfer checks 
 entitling the passenger to continue his ride upon 
 any intersecting line without extra charge. 
 
 Hacks and Coaches. — For the benefit of those 
 who have occasion to engage any of the above, for 
 the transient service of any excursion Ijmg outside 
 of the regular routes, or beyond the legal limits 
 within which the fixed fare obtains, we subjoin 
 the following legal regulations also contained in 
 the order and section already quoted on a previous 
 page: 
 
 " For a hackney carriage, drawn by more than 
 one horse, for four or less j^ersons, when engaged 
 by the hour, to be computed for the time occupied 
 in going and returning, including detention, $3 for 
 the first hour, and $2 for each subsequent hour. 
 
SA/V FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 203 
 
 *' For a liackney carriage, drawn by one horse, 
 for two persons, when engaged by the hour, to be 
 occupied in going and returning, including deten- 
 tions, $1 50 for the first hour, and $1 for each 
 subsequent hour." 
 
 It is hardly necessary to remark, yet it may pre- 
 vent misunderstanding to add, that the above rates 
 pay for the service of the ivhole carriage, and may 
 be equitably divided among the occupants as they 
 agree. 
 
 Livery Service. — The liveiy stables of the city 
 are numerous, and well-stocked with animals of 
 blood and speed, and every form of two or four- 
 wheeled vehicles from the substantial, three-seated 
 thorough-braced wagon to the elegant or fancy 
 single buggy or sulky. The usual rates, at all 
 first class stables, are five dollars a day, or a drive 
 for a single team, and ten dollars for a double one. 
 F.or a very short trip, and a very short time, they 
 frequently abate something, and when a team is 
 engaged for several days or weeks at once, com- 
 monly make the rate lower. For saddle horses the 
 price is usually one half that of a single team, that 
 is $2 50 for a day or drive — subject to similar re- 
 ductions as above. 
 
 On Foot. — If you have the nerve and muscle of 
 a man, and are not sadly out of training, by all means 
 walk through or about the city and around its 
 suburbs. In several places, as, in climbing Tele- 
 
204 BANCROFT' S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 grapli or any otlier hill, you will liave to walk, and 
 then you can. Even our lady visitors might profi- 
 tabl}^ emulate the pedestrian performances of their 
 English sisters. Provide good easy, wide-bot- 
 tomed, low-heeled walking-shoes, boots or gaiters, 
 and take the beautiful, windless and dustless 
 morning hours for it and, unless your taste is fash- 
 ionably j)erverted or your physical energy hoj)e- 
 lessly exhausted, you will find it most delightful. 
 Among the Scottish Highlands, or in the Swiss 
 Alps, you would certainly do it, endure it, enjoy 
 it, and subsequently boast of it; why not try it 
 here ? 
 
 Suburbs and Vicinity. 
 
 We suppose the visitor to have fairly rested — to 
 have walked about a little through the more central 
 portion; to have somewhat studied the general 
 plan of the city, in view of the larger or shorter 
 time which he has to spend in the city, to have 
 made up his mind how much he will see, and what 
 it shall be. By way of helping his planning and 
 sight-seeing, we now catalogue and briefly remark 
 upon the more notable points, taken in regular 
 order from the most central starting point. We 
 offer the following pages as heljoful suggestions to 
 those who cannot avail themselves of the personal 
 guidance of some resident friend, who can con- 
 stantly accompany them to direct their route, and 
 verbally explain the details which these printed 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 205 
 
 pages attemj^t. If one has not time, or does not 
 wish to see anything here set down, he can easily 
 omit it, and from the remainder select whatever he 
 may chose, transposing, combining, modifying 
 and adapting according to his own good pleasure. 
 
 GENERAL CIRCUIT OF THE CITY. 
 
 Commencing at the foot of Market street, thence 
 southward, along or over the water front, continu- 
 ing around the entire city and returning to the 
 point of starting. Also mentioning more distant 
 points visible to the spectator looking beyond the 
 suburbs : 
 
 The Lumber Yards, Yf harves and Merchant Fleet, 
 first attract our notice. Millions of feet of boards, 
 plank and timber from the northern coast of this 
 State and from Oregon, ranged in immense piles on 
 broad and deep piers — alongside of which the 
 schooners, brigs and barks of the lumber fleet are 
 constantly discharging. 
 
 Thence along Stewart or East street, the latter 
 being nearer the water, by large lumber-j^ards, 
 boat-shops, blacksmithing and ship-chandling es- 
 tablishments, we reach the California and Oregon 
 S. S. Co's wharves and slips. The Folsom street 
 cars run within five short blocks ; nearer than any 
 others. 
 
 Black Diamond Coal Company's Pier. ^-Barges, 
 sheds and j)iles of coal, straight from the bowels of 
 
2o6 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 Mount Diablo, corner Spear and Harrison streets, 
 P. B. Cornwall, agent. 
 
 Kincon Point, foot of Harrison street. The 
 wharves and filling have quite obliterated the old 
 shore line, which originally turning a short corner 
 here, received the name "Rincon," which, in Span- 
 ish, means simply a corner. 
 
 U. S. Marine Hospital, northwest corner of Har- 
 rison and Sjjear. 
 
 P. M. S. S. Co.'s Piers, Docks, Sheds and Slips. 
 Waterfront, foot of Brannan and Townsend streets. 
 Piers having a total front of 1200 feet, shed 600 
 feet long by 250 wide. Steamships over five thou- 
 sand tons register and docks built especially for 
 them. Capt. W. B. Cox, Superintendent. 
 
 Gas Works, corner of King and Second. The 
 other works of the same company, the San Fran- 
 cisco Gas Co., are on Howard street, from First 
 to Beale. 
 
 C. P. R. R. Co.'s Freight Pier, Depot and Boat. 
 Foot of Second street. 
 
 Mission Bay. Foot of Second and Third streets. 
 The broad cove lying between South street and 
 Potrero ; now fast filling in, esjDCcially beyond, that 
 is, south of the Long Bridge. 
 
 Mission Rock.— Off the foot of Third street. Has 
 a shanty on it. Used for fishing. 
 
 XJ. S. Shij) Anchorage. — Between foot of Third 
 and the Mission Rock, and within a quarter-mile 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 207 
 
 radius of the latter. U. S. Eevenue Cutters and 
 Coast Survey vessels, chiefly occup}^ it. 
 
 Steamboat Reserves. — lu the docks between 
 Third and Fourth and the adjacent ones along the 
 south side of the bridge. 
 
 Long Bridge. — From the foot of Fourth street, 
 across Mission Bay to Potrero — one mile. Will 
 become Kentucky street, when the filling-in makes 
 a street of what is now a bridge. 
 
 Yacht Club Building. — East side of Long Bridge, 
 one third across. Yachts at moorings near. 
 
 Potrero. — The point at the south end of Long 
 Bridge. Spanish for pasture ground. Originally 
 a rock}^ ridge. Fast disappearing under houses. 
 
 Glass Works. — Pacific Glass Works, corner Iowa 
 and Mariposa streets, four blocks west of bridge. 
 
 Pacific Rolling Mill. — Potrero Point, water front, 
 east of bridge. 
 
 Deep Cut, is really Kentuck}' street, brought 
 down somewhere near the future grade, by cutting 
 through the solid rock, to an average depth of 75 
 feet for nearly a fifth of a mile. 
 
 Rope Walk runs under Kentucky street, near the 
 north end of the Islais Creek Bridge, which is the 
 same street continued across Islais Creek, now a 
 solidly planked bridge, seven eighths of a mile long. 
 
 Italian Fishing Fleet and Flakes, on the right of 
 the bridge, along the cove-beach just beyond the 
 rope-walk. Their Mongolian competitors have their 
 boats and beach a little further south. 
 
2o8 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 South San Francisco is the rising land or ridge 
 south of Islais Creek. It is a pleasant suburb, rap- 
 idly growing. 
 
 Catholic Orphan Asylum, that large, new wood- 
 en building fronting on Connecticut street, nine 
 blocks west of the bridge. 
 
 Hunter's Point is the east end of South San 
 Francisco, a rocky point in which the Dry Dock, 
 dug out of the solid rock, four hundred and twen- 
 ty-one feet long, one hundred and twenty feet wide 
 at the top, and sixty feet wide at the bottom, which 
 is twenty-two feet below mean high water. With 
 the Floating Dock, near by, it cost two millions of 
 dollars. 
 
 Bay View Race Track, near Railroad Avenue, a 
 mile southwest of Islais Bridge One mile around; 
 broad, smooth and hard. Bay View House at north 
 margin, near west end. 
 
 Visitacion Point and Valley, three quarters of a 
 mile beyond the race course; worth driving out to 
 see, if you have plenty of time. 
 
 San Bruno Road unites with this railroad avenue 
 about half a mile beyond the race course; brings 
 one back near 
 
 New Butchertown, corner of Islais Creek Canal 
 and Kentucky street. 
 
 Drive back this old San Bruno Road, until you 
 come to Twenty-sixth street; along that to Mission; 
 down Mission to Seventeenth, out which you may 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 209 
 
 drive until you find your way winding and climbing 
 up and over the east slopes of the peninsular hills 
 along the Ocean House Road, a broad, hard track, 
 leading over the hills to the house which names it. 
 Opposite Twenty-fourth street is the toll gate, 
 where you pay twelve and a half, or twent3'-five 
 cents, according to your team. A mile beyond, a 
 side gate, free, admits.you to a carriage-way through 
 the fields, leading down, three quarters of a mile, 
 to Lake Honda, the huge double-reservoir of slop- 
 ing-sided masonr}^, covered with cement, and hold- 
 ing thirty-five million gallons. This well merits a 
 visit. The City Almshouse stands on the hill, 
 half a mile south o'f the lake. 
 
 The Small-pox Hosj^ital is the small building 
 standing alone on the hill, a third of a mile north 
 of the Almshouse. 
 
 Returning to, and resuming the main road, a mile 
 southwesterly and then westerly, brings us to the 
 Ocean Race Course, securely enclosed, and having 
 the usual circuit and surface. 
 
 Opposite this, and half a mile south lies Lake 
 Merced, three quarters of a mile long by a fifth of 
 a mile wide. That part of it nearer to, and paral- 
 lel with the road, is a smaller, nearly separate lake 
 called simpl}^ " the Lagoon." 
 
 Ocean House, on a slight sandy knoll, half a 
 mile northwest of Lake Merced. 
 
 Pacific Beach. — This is the sandy shore of the 
 
210 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 " ultimate sea," stretching almost exactly nortli two 
 miles to the base of the cliff, up which a well-built 
 road carries us a score of rods northwesterly to the 
 
 Cliff House, the grand terminus, or at least way- 
 station of all ocean drives. Its broad, covered 
 piazza, well-furnished with easy chairs and good 
 marine glasses, has been for years the popular ob- 
 servatory whence fashion languidly patronizes the 
 Pacific, or gazes with momentarj^ interest upon the 
 
 Seal Kocks — three hundred feet from the shore, 
 and dotted with lubberly seals, clumsily climbing 
 upon the lower rocks, or lazil}^ sunning themselves 
 above. 
 
 Farallones — Twenty-five miles seaward from the 
 Cliff House — seven sharp-pointed islets break the 
 monotony of the w^estern horizon. The highest of 
 these rises three hundred and forty feet, and has a 
 large lighthouse of the first-class, vfith the finest 
 Fresnel light on the coast. 
 
 Point Lobos, a precipitous coast bluff, a third 
 of a mile north of the Cliff House, chiefly noted 
 as the site of the Signal Station; provided with a 
 fine glass and the usual outfit of a marine observa- 
 tor}^ Thence along the beach, or the brow of the 
 bluff, if you like climbing, by the Helmet Kock, 
 whose shape hardly ai)pears from the land, around 
 the curve of the shore, whose general direction here 
 is northeast, a full mile, to 
 
 Port Point, where stands a doubly-strengthened 
 
SA.V FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 
 
 and lieavily-mounted fort, yet unnamed, whose 
 chief interest founds upon its general resemblance 
 to the famous Fort Sumter. 
 
 Lighthouse. — The northwest angle of the fort 
 supports a substantial tower, showing a fixed white 
 light. From the walls of the fort, or better still, 
 from the lighthouse balcony, we look upon and 
 across the 
 
 Golden Gate, the connecting strait between the 
 Pacific Ocean and San Francisco Bay. It is be- 
 tween three and four miles long, from one to two 
 miles wide, and over four hundred feet deep. 
 
 Lime Point, the northern inside gate-post — the 
 southeastern extremity of Marin county. 
 
 Point Bonita. — The outer or oceanward point of 
 the northern shore, nearly two miles west of the 
 fort, crowned with a lighthouse. 
 
 Mountain Lake — One mile south of the fort, and 
 sending a little rivulet called Lobos Creek westward 
 into the Pacific, which it helps to replenish. 
 
 Presidio — Si^anish for garrison or barracks. This 
 is nearly a mile southeast of the fort, as we return 
 toward the city. Its main features are the exten- 
 sive barracks, accommodating several hundred U. S. 
 soldiers, who make this their point of arrival and 
 departure in going to or coming from the different 
 stations to which they may be ordered. Forming 
 the parallelogram front is the parade ground, a 
 broad, open field, gently falling toward the bav. 
 
BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 surrounded by the officers' quarters or the bar- 
 racks, and dotted with batteries here and there. 
 
 Black Point. — The water front at the foot of 
 Franklin and Gough streets. 
 
 Pioneer Woolen Mills — Corner of Polk and 
 Eeade streets. Office, 115 Battery street. 
 
 North Beach — From the foot of Powell* street 
 west to Black Point. 
 
 Angel Island, three and a half miles north of 
 Black Point, across the bay. 
 
 Alcatraces Island- — A mile and a half north of 
 North Beach, off in the bay, heavily fortified, com- 
 manding the Golden Gate. 
 
 North Point — AVater front, foot of Kearny street, 
 corner of Bay street. 
 
 Sea Wall — AVater front from the foot of Union 
 street, southward; a sloping bulkhead of rubble, 
 faced with heavier rock, costing $240 a linear foot, 
 and a mile and a half long. 
 
 Ferries. — Alameda — Corner of Davis and Pacific 
 street. City Front Cars. 
 
 Oakland — Same dock, next slip south. City 
 Front Cars. 
 
 Saucelito — Meiggs' Wharf, foot of Powell street. 
 North Beach cars. 
 
 San Quentin — Davis street, near Vallejo. City 
 Front or Sutter street cars. 
 
 Vallejo — Corner of Front and Vallejo. City 
 Front or Sutter street cars. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 213 
 
 HOW TO SEE SAN FRANCISCO AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 
 
 Brief trips, or short excursions, requiring but a 
 few hours each. Short skeleton tours in and about 
 the suburbs, suggesting the most interesting points, 
 with the walks, rides, drives or sails by which one 
 may reach them — the time required and the best 
 hours of the day, the amount of walking necessary, 
 with the conveniences and cost. 
 
 IN AND ABOUT THE CITY. 
 
 I. Walk up Montgomery street to Telegraph 
 Hill. If you don't feel like climbing clear to the 
 top, follow the foot-path which winds around about 
 two thirds up its east and northeast sloj^es. If 
 you go to the top you can go down into — or if you 
 take the lower path you will come round into, Lom- 
 bard street. Walk down that to Powell; turn to 
 your right and follow Powell north to the water 
 and Meiggs' wharf, down the wharf if you want 
 the bay breeze, and the bay sights from a lower 
 level; come back — take the South Park cars; ride 
 up Powell by Washington Square, up Stockton, 
 down Washington — get out at the upper corner of 
 the Plaza, walk diagonally across, notice the old 
 City Hall on your left, stroll up Kearny to Cali- 
 fornia or Bush, down which you descend one block 
 to Montgomery. 
 
 II. Chinese Quarters. — Sacramento street, from 
 Kearny to Dupont, along Dupont to Pacific, down 
 
214 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 Pacific to Stockton, to Jackson, down Jackson 
 to Kearn}^; cast your eyes down the little alleyways 
 and courts which cut up the blocks along these 
 streets. Look at these signs! " Hop Yik, Wo 
 Ki, Tin Yuk, Hop Wo, Chung Sun, Cheung 
 Kuong, Hang Ki, Yang Kee, Shang Tong, 
 Shun Wo," that last would'nt be a bad one 
 to go over the door of " civilized" rum-hole. 
 *' Wing On Tsiang', Wung Wo Shang, Kwong On 
 Cheang," and scores of others. Most are personal 
 names, some are business mottoes. They are 
 generally phonographic, that is, you pronounce 
 them according to their spelling. Here and there 
 one suggests fun. For instance, "Man Li." Well, 
 why not a Chinaman as well as a white man? Has 
 the superior race the monopoly of lying? That 
 sign is certainly creditable to the Chinese female; 
 it says Man Li; not icoman lie. Not far thence a 
 very appropriate successor finishes the logical se- 
 quence, "Hung Hi." Certainly, why not? That's 
 what ought to be done to any merchant who will 
 lie. Any Man Li, should.be " Hung Hi." These 
 celestials certainly have no bad idea of the eternal 
 fitness of things. What would happen to our 
 Melican * merchants if that rule were rigidly ap- 
 plied ? It would'nt be much trouble to take the 
 next census. This is the out-door glance by daylight. 
 If you want a more thorough exploration by day or 
 by night, call on special officer Duffield, (Greorge 
 
SAN FRAA CISCO AND VICINITY. 215 
 
 W.) at 1,107 Montgomery street, wlio knows tlieir 
 haunts and ways, and can sliow 3'Ou all you'll care 
 to see. His long experience among tliem has also 
 acquainted them with him to such a degree, that 
 they allow him to enter and pass through their 
 houses and rooms whence another might be shut 
 out. In fact, he is their special officer, paid by the 
 Chinese merchants to guard their property, and is 
 em|)hatically the man to have for an escort. He 
 can take you into their gambling saloons, into their 
 pigeon-hole lodging houses where rag-pickers, beg- 
 gars and thieves fill the air with opiiun smoke, then 
 shove themselves, feet foremost, into a sqTiare box 
 of- a pigeon-hole, more like a coffin than a couch. 
 He can guide you into crooked, narrow, labyrin- 
 thine passages through which you can just squeeze, 
 and which you could never find nor enter without 
 guidance; into inner courts, around which, and in 
 the midst of which, stand old rickety, tumble-down, 
 vermin-haunted hives of wooden tenements v/hich 
 rise through three or four stories, all alive with the 
 swarming lazzaroni, packed into the smallest and 
 dirtiest of rooms, and huddled into every dark and 
 filthj^ corner. 
 
 These are the lowest and worst of their race; the 
 infernal celestials, among whom the officer will not 
 take a w^oman at all, and where it would not be safe 
 for any man to attempt entrance alone. The aj)- 
 proaches are so ingeniously constructed and so art- 
 
2i6 BANCROFT'S TOURIST\S GUIDE. 
 
 fully disguised, and tlie passages wind among each 
 other so intricately, and intersect each other so per- 
 plexingly, that not one in a thousand could ever 
 find the beginning, and hardly one in ten thousand 
 could discover the end. 
 
 ' ' For %i:iays that are dark, 
 And for tricks tliat are vain, 
 The heathen Chinee is peculiar ; 
 Which the same I would rise to explain." 
 
 The stranger must not conclude, however, that 
 such as these make up the bulk of the Chinese who 
 come to us. On the contrary, these are the lowest 
 and vilest, the dregs and settlings of their social 
 system; no more fit to be taken as samples of their 
 nation than the low, whisky-drinking, shillaly- 
 swinging, skull-cracking, vote-repeating Irish, who 
 now govern New York, are to be taken as fair t^q^es 
 of the " finest pisantry undher the sun," or consid- 
 ered as a representative of the educated Irishman, 
 than whom a warmer-hearted, freer-handed, more 
 courteous-mannered gentleman one can hardly meet 
 in a thousand miles. 
 
 So the middle classes of the Chinese are cleanly, 
 sober, industrious and honest, while their leading 
 merchants, of whom we have several fine represen- 
 tatives in the city, are models of business integrity 
 and social courtesy. Enter one of their establish- 
 ments, with proper introduction, and you shall en- 
 counter the most perfect politeness throughout the 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 217 
 
 interview, and carry away the impression tliat you 
 were never more heartily welcomed and generously 
 entertained, according to their custom, of course, 
 by any strangers, in your life. 
 
 And one very notable thing should also be said 
 of their street deportment; you ma}^ walk through 
 their quarter every day and night for a month, and 
 not see a single drunken man of their own race. If 
 you encounter one at all, he is likely to belong to 
 the "superior race." 
 
 Your survey of the Chinese quarter would be in- 
 complete without a visit to their temples or joss 
 houses. One of these stands off Pine, just above 
 Kearny. They are also used as hospitals. 
 
 Should you wish an}'' souvenir in the shape of 
 their j)eculiarly ingenious manufacture, you may 
 find them at the Chinese or Japanese bazaars. 
 
 III. Third Street. — Five and a half blocks to 
 South Park; thence three blocks to the water; 
 along Channel street to Long Bridge. Here we 
 may take the Bay View cars, ride across the Mission 
 Bay, visit the Kolling Mills, or keep on through 
 the Deep Cut, over Islais Creek bridge, through 
 South San Francisco, to Bay View track, whence 
 'busses carry us to Hunter's Point and the Dry 
 Dock. Best time, morning, unless some shijD is 
 going into dock on the high tide. Fare in 'bus, 
 twenty-five cents each. 
 
2i8 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 IV. — Watee FKONT-Soutli of Market. -Walk along 
 East or Stewart St., by U. S. Marine Hospital, to E. 
 M.S.S. Co.'s shiiDs and docks andC. P.E.E. Freight 
 piers and depot. Thus far no cars. At foot of 
 Brannan take cars, ride up that to Third, down 
 Third, by South Park, to Howard — along Howard 
 to Second, along Second to Market again. Or you 
 can walk from the water up Second to Market 
 again. Or you can walk from the water up Second 
 through the cut to Harrison, climb the bridge-stairs, 
 walk down Harrison to First or Fremont, turn left, 
 and come back by the Shot Tower, Foundries, and 
 Factories to Market. 
 
 V. — Water Front — North of Market. — No cars 
 here. Stroll northerly by the corners of the different 
 streets, along the heads of the different piers, 
 among the grain and produce boats, river steamer 
 docks and ferry slips, around to North Point, with 
 its bonded warehouses, iron clippers, and sea wall, 
 thence back Sansome to Broadway, whence cars 
 take you again to the centre. 
 
 VI. — Southwestern Suburbs. — From corner west 
 front of Grand Hotel, take city cars out Mission, by 
 fine new church, new Mint, to Woodward's Gar- 
 dens; thence to Sixteenth; up that three blocks, 
 westerly, to Dolores street, w^here stands the old 
 Mission Church, the site of the first permanent set- 
 tlement of San Francisco ; out Dolores; south two 
 blocks, to Jewish Cemeteries; back by same way to 
 
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 219 
 
 Sixteenth ; down tliat to Mission Woolen Mills ; 
 thence home by Folsom street or Howard street 
 cars, either of which brings you to Market street. 
 
 VII. — Western Suburbs and beyond. — From 
 Montgomery up Sutter, by cars, or up Bush by feet 
 or wheels. Either street carries you westerly to 
 Laurel Hill, in which elegant monuments and 
 mausoleums merit more than passing notice; thence 
 east three blocks to Lone Mountain and the ceme- 
 teries grouped about its base, and upon its lower 
 slopes — the Odd Fellows', west; the Masonic, south, 
 and the Calvary north and east. Out the Cliff 
 House Road — you'll need horse probably, or can 
 take the 'bus for 25 cents each way — by the Race 
 Track or Driving Park, to the Cliff House; look at 
 the Seal Rocks, Seals, Ocean andFarallones; thence 
 south along Pacific Beach to Ocean House, whence 
 in by Ocean Road or the new Central Road by 
 Lake Peralta and Lake Honda. The old Ocean 
 Road brings you back through the Mission ; the 
 new one, in by Lone Mountain again. 
 
 VIII. — Northwestern Suburbs and beyond. — 
 Up Geary, Post or Sutter to Van Ness Avenue ; 
 thence twelve blocks north through Spring Valley, 
 b}^ cars from Broadway west to Harbor View, Pre- 
 sidio and Fort Point. Returning from the Presi- 
 dio, keep towards the Bay ; come around by Black 
 Point, whence, skirting the water-front through 
 five or six rough blocks, you reach the foot of Ma- 
 
220 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 
 
 son or Powell street, and find otlier cars waiting to 
 bring you home. 
 
 The routes above suggested, are by no means 
 exhaustive, but will take one to or near the most 
 noted points. If the tourist can have the personal 
 guidance and escort of some well-posted friend, so 
 much the better. In the absence of such friend, or 
 even to accompany him, we respectfully submit our 
 little pocket substitute. 
 
I N r> E X 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Alcatraz 19 
 
 Alempo 76 
 
 Angel Island 19 
 
 Bell Valley 81 
 
 Benicia 28 
 
 Bloomfield 94 
 
 Blue Lakes 80 
 
 Bodega 94 
 
 Borax Lake 73 
 
 Brown's Valley 34 
 
 Cache Creek , 73 
 
 California Pacilic B. R. . . 22 
 
 Calistoga 39 
 
 Carneros Valley 100 
 
 Carquinez, Straits of ... . 20 
 
 Chile's Valley 38 
 
 Clear Lake 68 
 
 Clear Lake Mountains ... 73 
 
 Cloverdale 97 
 
 Conn Valley 38 
 
 Coyempo 76 
 
 Coyote Valley 72 
 
 Devil's Grist Mill 58 
 
 Devil's Inkstand 58 
 
 Donahue 88 
 
 Duncan's Mill 94 
 
 I'AGP-. 
 
 Feliz Valley 82 
 
 Feuston 94 
 
 Fisherman's Bay 94 
 
 Fisk's Mill 94 
 
 Fort Boss 94 
 
 Foss Station 54 
 
 Geysers 47 
 
 Geyser Peak 54 
 
 Goat Island 19 
 
 Golden Gate 19 
 
 Guenoc 72 
 
 Guillico Valley 93 
 
 Haichica Valley 100 
 
 Harbin Sx)riugs 72 
 
 Healdsbv.rg 95 
 
 Hog's Back 55 
 
 Howell Mountain 38 
 
 Kelseyville 76 
 
 Lakeport 78 
 
 Little Geysers 61 
 
 Loconome Valley 72 
 
 Lone Valley 76 
 
 Lower Lake 73 
 
 Mare Island 26 
 
 Mendocino City 99 
 
INDEX. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Mendocino County 78 
 
 ' Middletown 72 
 
 Mount Lincoln 40 
 
 Mount St. Helena 47' 
 
 Mountain of Fire 60 
 
 Moyacamas Mountains . . 93 
 
 Napa City 31 
 
 Napa Junction 29 
 
 Napa Soda Springs 35 
 
 Napa Valley 29 
 
 Oak Knoll 36 
 
 Oakville 37 
 
 Olema 87 
 
 Petaluma 91 
 
 Petrified Forest 45 
 
 Pluton Eiver . . 56 
 
 Point San Pablo 19 
 
 Pope Valley , 32 
 
 Eoss's Landing 87 
 
 St. Helena 37 
 
 Salt Point 94 
 
 Sanel 82 
 
 San Francisco Ill 
 
 Alcatraz 19 
 
 Angel Island 19 
 
 Approaches to City .... 123 
 
 Baths 138 
 
 Bay View 208 
 
 Buildings — Business . . 173 
 Public .... 164 
 
 Chinese Quarter 213 
 
 Churches 177 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 San Francisco — Continued. 
 
 Cliff House 210 
 
 Colleges 185 
 
 Conveyances 129 
 
 Drives 161 
 
 Dry Dock 208 
 
 Excursions about City . 208 
 
 Farallones 210 
 
 Fort Point 210 
 
 Gymnasiums 144 
 
 Halls 141 
 
 . Hills 190 
 
 Historical Ill 
 
 Horse Cars 200 
 
 Hospitals, Asylums . . . 183 
 
 Hotels ' 132 
 
 How to get about 200 
 
 Hunter's Point 208 
 
 Libraries 164 
 
 Lodging Houses 137 
 
 Manufactories 175 
 
 Melodeons 140 
 
 Museums 140 
 
 North Beach 212 
 
 Places of Amusement . . 138 
 
 Plan of City 118 
 
 Potrero . . .' 207 
 
 Presidio 211 
 
 Private Residences 190 
 
 Promenades 157 
 
 Restaurants 137 
 
 Schools 187 
 
 Sea Wall 212 
 
 Seal Rock 210 
 
INDEX. 
 
 223 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 San Francisco — ContiJiued. 
 Situation and Extent . . 115 
 
 Skating Einks 146 
 
 Squares and Parks .... 157 
 Suburbs and Vicinity . . 204 
 
 Telegrapli Hill 190 
 
 Theatres 139 
 
 Verba Buena 112 
 
 Verba Buena Island . . . 123 
 
 San Pablo Bay 19 
 
 San Quentin ... 84 
 
 San Rafael 85 
 
 Santa Rosa 93 
 
 Santa Rosa Valley 92 
 
 Saucelito 83 
 
 Scott Valley 80 
 
 Sebastopol 94 
 
 Seigler Springs 74 
 
 Skagg's Springs 96 
 
 Soda Bay 77 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Sonoma 100 
 
 Steamboat Geyser 58 
 
 Sulphur Bank 73 
 
 Summit 55 
 
 Suscol 30 
 
 Tamalpais 86 
 
 Timber Cove 94 
 
 Toll House 72 
 
 Tomales 88 
 
 Ukiah City 81 
 
 Uncle Sam 77 
 
 Vallejo 21 
 
 Vallejo White Sulphur Sp 27 
 
 White Sulphur Springs . . 38 
 
 Windsor 95 
 
 Witches' Caldron 59 
 
 Yokayo Valley 81 
 
 Yountville 36 
 
224 MEMORANDA. 
 
MEMORANDA. 225 
 
226 MEMORANDA. 
 
MEMORANDA. 
 
227 MEMORANDA. 
 
a. l. bancroft & company, 
 Stationers and Manufacturers, 
 
 No. 721 Market Street, San Krancisco. 
 
 Specimens of Engraving 
 
 For Wedding and Visiting Cards, Monograms, Die Sinking, Color 
 Stamping and Illuminating. 
 
 No. I. Wedding Monograrr.. No. 2. Seal. No. 3. Illuminated Monogram. No. 
 4. Monogram in Color. No 5. Crest. No. 6. Fancy Die. 
 
 .<JL. .■llJ.dbldl 
 
0t$. |»$.(A/^»$tmijs?, 
 
 
 '^.^'^Y"./i\,^^^ 
 
 
 c-^. 
 
 
mmi TO ADVEETISEES. 
 
 Calistoga. 
 
 Calistoga Hot Springs Hotel, 
 E. B. Badlam. - - xii 
 
 Calistoga and Lakeport Stage 
 Line, C. RIcGreer - - xvi 
 
 Lodi Stables, G.B.Clifford, viii 
 
 National Hotel, F. Sieben, xiii 
 
 Clovkrdale. 
 
 Cloverdale Hotel, T. S. Col- 
 vin .... xxxi 
 
 Cloverdale Livery Stable, Hall, 
 Curtis & Brush - - xxxii 
 
 Cloverdale and Mendocino 
 Stage Line - - xxxiii 
 
 Emerson House, P. M. Emer- 
 son .... xxxiv 
 
 Geysers. 
 
 Geyser Stage Line.Foss & Con- 
 nelly ... - xiv 
 
 Great Geyser Springs, J. C. 
 Susenbeth - - . xv 
 
 Healdsburg. 
 
 Healdsburg and Santa Rosa 
 Livery Stables, Emerson.Haw- 
 kins & Co. ... XXX 
 
 Sotoyome House, B, C. 
 Wright ... xxix 
 
 Lakeport. 
 
 Lakeport Hotel, Mrs. S. V. 
 Chapman ... xix 
 
 Lower Lake. 
 
 Virginia Hotel, R. H. Law- 
 rence .... xvii 
 
 Modesto. 
 
 Ross House, J. Cole - xlviii 
 
 Napa Citv. 
 
 Metropolitan Stable, G. B. 
 
 Clifford ... viii 
 
 Napa Hotel, J. S. Hogan - x 
 Revere House, J. W. Sharp vii 
 S. E. Smith, Board . ix 
 
 Navarra. 
 
 Navarra Hotel, Moore Bros. 
 xxxiii 
 
 Petaluma. 
 
 American Hotel Mrs. Wm. 
 
 Ordway - - - xxv 
 
 California Livery Stable, H . B. 
 
 Hasbrouck ... xxvi 
 
 Pescadero. • 
 
 Hotel, Chas. Kinsey, Ixxviii 
 
 Routes of Travel. 
 
 California Pacific R.R. Co. Ixxi 
 Central Pacific R. R. Co., Yo- 
 
 semite route Ixxii — Ixxiii 
 
 Cloverdale and Mendocino, 
 
 J. D. Carr & Co. . xxxiii 
 Geysers, Calistoga route, xiv 
 San Francisco & North Pacific 
 
 R.R. Co. - - - xxiii 
 Yosemite, Coulterville route 
 
 - xlvii 
 Yosemite, Mariposa route Ixxiii 
 
 Sanel. 
 
 Sanel House, J. Sloper - xxii 
 
 San Rafael. 
 
 Tamalpais Hotel, R. Pardow 
 
 - xxiv 
 
 Santa Rosa. 
 
 Fashion Livery Stable, J. P. 
 
 Clark ... xxviii 
 
 KessingHotel, F. H.Coe xxvii 
 
INDEX TO ADVERTISERS. 
 
 Seigler Springs. 
 
 Hotel,Snodgrass& Boone xviii 
 
 Skaggs' Hot Springs. 
 
 Hotel, B. Frank Tucker xxxv 
 
 San Francisco. 
 
 A. L. Bancroft & Company, 
 
 Books and Stationery Cover 
 A. L. Bancroft & Company, 
 
 Pianos - . - - xl 
 Blake, Kobbins & Co., Paper 
 
 ----- xliii 
 Bradley & Rulofson, Photo- 
 graphs ... - xliv 
 California Cotton Growers and 
 
 Manufacturers Assoc. xxxvi 
 California Ink Company, G. L. 
 
 Faulkner - - - xli 
 
 California Silk Manufacturing 
 
 Company - - xxxviii 
 
 Eagle Pencils - Ixix 
 
 R. Eitner, Engraver, Ixxiv 
 
 Jos. Figel, Merchant Tailor Ixxix 
 L, P. Fisher, Advertising 
 
 Agent - - - Lxiii ' 
 
 G. Groezinger, California 
 
 Wines - - . xxxix 
 
 Hobbs, Gilmore & Co. - Ixxii 
 J. Isaac & Co., ' tationery xlii 
 McAfee, Spiers & Co., Boiler 
 
 Makers -, - - xlvi 
 
 J. C. Meussdorffer, Hats xlv 
 
 Miller & Hall - - Ixv 
 
 Occidental Hotel, - - Ixx 
 Overland Monthly, J. H. Car- 
 many & Co. - - - li 
 Geo. T. Pracy - Ixiv 
 
 H. Rosekrans & Co., Hard- 
 ware - - - xxxvii 
 Sherman & Hyde, Music 
 
 Dealers . - - Ixxv 
 Thurnauer & Zinn, Willow- 
 ware - - - - Hi 
 Woodward's Gardens - Ixxx 
 
 Ukiah. 
 
 Fashion Livery Stables, Smith 
 
 & Ramsey - . - xxi 
 Ukiah House, W. G. Alban xx 
 
 Vallejo. 
 
 Brownlee's Livery Stable iv 
 
 Capitol Hote-, Wm. Likins iii 
 Frisbie House, J. M. Staples 
 
 &Co. - - - - vi 
 Vallejo Springs - - v 
 
 White Sulphur Springs. 
 
 Hotel, Alstrom &Schoneu-ald 
 
 xi 
 
 Boston. 
 
 And. T. Graves, Books xlix 
 
 Henry Hoyt, New Prize Books 
 
 lix 
 
 Lee & Shepard, Schwartz 
 
 Novels - - - - Ivi 
 Lee & Shepard, Books of 
 
 Travel - - - - Ivii 
 Loring's R. R. Novels - liv 
 H. A. Young & Co., Books 1 
 
 New York. 
 
 Appleton's Guide Books Ixviii 
 Eagle Pencils - - Ixix 
 
 Gillott's Pens Inside Cover 
 
 Harper's Periodicals - Ixii 
 J. S. Redfield, Books - Iviii 
 S. R. Wells, Phrenology Ixxvi 
 Shipmans' Patent File - liii 
 Spencerian Pens,Ivison, Blake- 
 man & Taylor - - Ixi 
 
 Palmyra. N. Y, 
 
 Globe Printing Presses - Ix 
 
 Philadelphia. 
 
 Chas. Desilver, School Books 
 
 - Iv 
 Kay & Brother, Publishers, 
 &c- - . . Ixxvii 
 
 Springfield, Mass. 
 
 Webster's Dictionaries Ixvi 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 THE CAPITOL HOTEL. 
 
 WILLIAM LIKINS, Proprietor. 
 
 Corner of Virginia and Branciforte Streets, 
 VALLEJO. 
 
 This Hotel is built in modem style and the rooms are large, 
 airy and pleasant, and are furnished in a style to please the most 
 fastidious. 
 
 EXCELLENT ACCOMMODATIONS 
 
 Are warranted to permanent and transient guests. The location 
 of the House is within two or three minutes' walk of the landing 
 of the San Francisco and Napa boats. The different stages arrive 
 and depart daily from the door. 
 
 The undersigned, who has long been known to the California 
 Public, especially in this part of the State (having opened the 
 above establishment over two years ago) assures his friends and 
 the public that nothing shall be wanting on his part to render 
 the Capitol Hotel a FIRST CLASS HOUSE, and in every 
 respect worthy of public patronage. The Table, Bar and Room 
 Comforts shall testify to his desire to render comfortable all who 
 favor his house with their patronage. 
 
 WILLIAM LIKINS. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 BROWNLEE'S 
 
 LIVERY STABLES 
 
 Virginia Street, Near Metropolitan Hotel, 
 
 VALLEJO. 
 
 JOHN BROWNLEE, - Proprietor. 
 
 THE VERY BEST LIVERY HORSES AND THE 
 MOST ELEGANT VEHICLES CAN BE 
 . HAD AT ALL TIMES. 
 
 Horses boarded, and the best care and attention bestowed. 
 Parties furnished with elegant carriages and careful drivers 
 at short notice. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 VALLEJO SPRINGS. 
 
 These Springs are situated three miles from Vallejo. 
 THE WATER camiot be excelled in 
 
 MEDICINAL QUALITIES. 
 
 THE CLIMATE IS DELIGHTFUL. 
 
 The grounds have been elaborately laid out and are 
 very attractive; and the proprietors take pleasure in 
 announcing to the public that those visiting this. Resort 
 will find ever3'thing that is conducive to 
 
 PLEASURE AND COMFORT. 
 
 The Table is laid in first-class style, and every atten- 
 dance that is oifered by the Best Hotels of the State is 
 guaranteed. 
 
 The Bar is furnished with the FINEST WINES, 
 LIQUORS AND SEGARS. 
 
 ||^g=^^ First- Class Stable attached. 
 
 A stage and carriages connect morning and evening 
 with the Vallejo boats and cars of the California Pacific 
 Railroad, conveying passengers to and from the Springs 
 at a moderate charge. 
 
vi TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 FRISBIE HOUSE, 
 
 SOUTH VALLEJO, CAL. 
 
 J. M. STAPLES & CO., 
 
 PROPRIETORS. 
 
 This Hotel is finely furnished throughout, 
 has accommodations for one hundred and 
 fifty guests; situated opposite the Rail- 
 road Station. Time to San Francisco, by 
 steamer, i| hours; to Sacramento, by rail, 
 2| hours; and to Calistoga Springs, by 
 rail, 2 hours. 
 
 Board per day, $2.50, and per week, $10. 
 Parlors extra. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. vii 
 
 REVERE HOUSE 
 
 JOHN W. SHARP, Proprietor. 
 
 Second Street, opposite Court House, 
 NAPA CITY, 
 
 ONLY FIRST-CLASS HOUSE IN NAPA CITY.. 
 
 THIS HOUSE is fitted up in superior style, and is 
 now open for the reception of Permanent and Transient 
 Guests. It is built in modern style, and the rooms are 
 large, airy and pleasant. 
 
 THE BAR is well supplied. THE TABLE shall be 
 second to none in the State. The farming community 
 will find at this House the best of accommodations at 
 reasonable prices. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 GEO. B. CLIFFORD, 
 
 METROPOLITAN 
 
 Feed and Livery Stables^ 
 
 MAIN ST., ABOVE FIRST, NAPA. 
 
 AND 
 
 Lodi Stables, Calistoga, 
 
 G. W. STEVES; Agent. 
 
 All kinds of Carriages, Buggies and fine Saddle Horses for 
 hire on reasonable terms. The most skillful and careful drivers 
 employed, and every effort made to give perfect satisfaction to 
 all. Attention paid to Boarding Horses. Excursion parties, 
 etc., conveyed to any part at lowest rates. 
 
 Calistoga and Harbin Springs 
 
 STAGE LINE. 
 
 Stage leaves Calistoga on Monday, Wednesday and Friday 
 if passengers offer, returning on alternate days, connecting with 
 the noon train for San Francisco and Sacramento City. 
 
 G. B. CLIFFORD. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 BOARD AT NAPA 
 
 MR.& MRS.S. E.SMITH, 
 
 Corner Third and Randolph Streets, 
 NAPA CITY, 
 
 Can accommodate a few boarders from the 
 city. 
 
 Terms — Ten Dollars per Week. 
 
 Children and servants half price. 
 
 A large white two story frame house, 
 large yard filled with shrubbery, the house 
 newly furnished, neat and clean, and very 
 accessible to the city. 
 
 Particular attention will be paid to the 
 comfort of Pfuests. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVipRTISER. 
 
 NAPA HOTEL 
 
 MAIN ST.: NAPA CITY, 
 
 JOHN S. HOG AN, - Proprietor. 
 
 This old established and popular House has been 
 greatly improved and placed in complete order for the 
 accommodation of the traveling public. 
 
 Guests can be furnished with elegant, airy and well 
 furnished rooms. 
 
 THE TABLE is supplied with every substantial and 
 delicacy attainable. 
 
 THE BAR is provided with only the Choicest Brands 
 of Wines, Liquors and Cigars. 
 
 The whole establishment is under the personal super- 
 vision of the owner and proprietor, whose long 
 experience enables him to cater successfully to the wants 
 of all his patrons. 
 
 GOOD ESTABLISHMENT AND REASONABLE 
 PRICES. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 WHITE SULPHUR 
 
 SPRINGS HOTEL. 
 ALSTROM & SCHONEWALD, 
 
 Proprietors. 
 
 White SiilpMir Canon, Napa Co., tivo miles west of St. Helena. 
 
 The proprietors of this popular estabhshment beg 
 leave to announce to the Traveling Public that they 
 have made extensive improvements upon the grounds 
 and buildings, and are prepared to accommodate guests 
 
 IN ELEGANT STYLE. 
 
 Every appointment of this house is on a scale com- 
 mensurate with the beauty of the location, the salubrity 
 of the springs, and the wants of its patrons. Separate 
 
 Elegantly Purnisked Cottages 
 
 are provided for families and parties. 
 
 Beautiful drives are found in the vicinity. Fine 
 Livery Horses and ELEGANT CARRIAGES fur- 
 nished for the accommodation of guests. 
 
 Regular connection, over a hne road, by stages, each 
 day, with the trains of the Valley Railroa.d at St. Helena. 
 
 The White Sulphur Springs are distant from . San 
 Francisco, 57 miles-; from Vallejo, 34 miles; from 
 Napa City, 18 miles; St. Helena, 2 miles. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 Calistoga Springs 
 
 HOTEL. 
 
 HOT MINERAL SPRINGS, 
 or the Little Geysers. 
 
 Napa County, California. 
 
 THE LESSEE of this popular watering place and summer resort would 
 announce to his friends and the public, that the Hotel is now open for 
 the reception of visitors. 
 
 Conveniences.— The Hotel and surroundings, including Family Cot- 
 tages, Swimming Bath, Chemical, Steam, Vapor, Tub, Mud and Shower 
 Bath, have been thoroughly renovated and enlarged. 
 
 Skating and Dancing Hall.— A Spacious Hall, 60 x 90 feet has been 
 added to the numerous attractions of the x'»lace. 
 
 Stage Connections,— The renowned Foss & Connelly's Stage Line 
 leaves Calistoga Hotel diiiy for the Geyser Springs, one of the most re- 
 markable places in the world. 
 
 The Peteified Fouest is situated but a short ride from the Hotel, A 
 Grotto has been built in front of the Hotel, made entirely of the Petrified 
 Wood, without uails or mortar. Specimens of the Petrifications given to 
 all visitors. 
 
 Swimming Bath. The spacious Swimming Bath, supplied with warm 
 sulphur water, is one of the features of the place, and the most timid lady 
 can learn to swim with little practice. 
 
 Inducements to Sportsmen. — Grizzly, Brown and Cinnamon Bear, 
 Deer, and every sijecies of wild game, are to be found within ten miles of 
 Calistoga, and the streams from ihe adjacent hills abound with Mountain 
 Trout. 
 
 An important advantage is the Telegraph connecting the Hotel with 
 every part of the State and overland, 
 
 E. B. BADLAM, 
 
 Proprietor. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xiii 
 
 National Hotel, 
 
 CALISTOGA. 
 
 P, SIEBEN, - - Proprietor. 
 
 Terms S2 a day, IS8 to |io a week. 
 
 The House is newly furnished and pos- 
 sesses every requirement for the copifort 
 and convenience of its guuests. 
 
 Superior acco7nmodatio7is for Families. 
 
 A wagon with the 'name of the Hotel, 
 will convey passengers to and from the 
 Station free of charge. 
 
 General Stage office for all parts of the 
 upper country. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 TO THE GEYSERS ! 
 
 Vallejo and Calistoga Route. 
 
 Parties desiring to visit the wonderful and celebrated Geyser 
 Springs, should take the 
 
 STEAMER "CAPITOL" 
 
 For Calistoga Via Vallejo, which leaves the foot of Front Street, 
 San Irancisco, at 8 A. M. and 4 P. M., daily, excepting Sunday, 
 when it leaves at 8.30 only. 
 
 OUR STAGES 
 Leave EVERY MORNING, and also on the ARRIVAL of the 
 MORNING TRAINS at Calistoga, about 12 M., 
 
 DIRECT FOR THE GEYSERS, 
 Over the New Road, one of the most romantic and picturesque 
 in the world. 
 
 Petaluma and Healdsburg Route, 
 the steamer "sacramento" 
 
 Leaves JACKSON STREET WHARF, San Francisco, DAILY, 
 at 8.30; Sundays also, at 8.30, A.M., for Donahue Cars ; thence 
 to Petaluma and Santa Rosa; and thence (until the completion of 
 the raih'oad) by stage to Healdsburg, where our Stages are in 
 readiness to convey them to the Geysers over the old road and 
 the celebrated "Hog's Back."' 
 
 From either road a fine view is obtained of the Russian Valley, extending 
 for many miles. 
 
 Passengers desiring to go by one route and return by the other can do so 
 at the same cost. 
 
 No pains will be spared on our part to make the trip a pleasant one. 
 
 Maps of both routes, and any further information may be obtained at our 
 office, 214 Montgomery Street, opposite the Russ House. 
 
 FOSS & CONNELLY, 
 
 Stage Proprietors. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 THE GREAT 
 
 GEYSER SPRINGS 
 
 of California. 
 
 THESE celebrated Springs are the greatest natural curiosity in the world, 
 and are reached by the 
 
 NAPA VALLEY ROUTE AND THE RUSSIAN 
 RIVER VALLEY ROUTE. 
 
 For particulars of these routes, see descriptio7i in body of this Guide. 
 
 The Medicinal and Curative Properties of the Geyser Springs are admitted 
 to be equal, if not superior, to Saratoga, Baden-Baden, Aix-la-Chapel, Wies- 
 baden, or Homburg. The Scenery is wild, picturesque, and grand in the 
 extreme, and finer than that of the Lower Alps. 
 
 The Pluton, or Great Sulphur Creek, which runs by the Geyser Hotel 
 is well supplied with mountain itrout ; and the hills abound with deer, and 
 other game. 
 
 THE HOTEL 
 
 Is a large, two-story building, with spacious verandahs surrounding it, above 
 and below, and has been newly furnished. New steam and sulphur bath- 
 houses have been erected, and a large stable has been built. Private 
 Teams can easily and safely drive over the new road from Calistoga, and at 
 the Geysers will find an abundance of good feed for their horses. 
 
 SADDLE HORSES, 
 
 For ladies and gentlemen, are always on hand, at reasonable prices. 
 
 A Good Table is kept at the Hotel, and the best of Liquors and Cigars 
 will be found at the bar. ' The rooms are comfortable, and the beds are all 
 new and provided with spring mattresses. 
 
 Board and lodging per day, $3 00 ; board and lodging, per week, $17 50 ; 
 single meals, each. $1 50. Baths, 25c. Visiting the Geyser Canons, for each 
 person, $1.00. Children under ten years of age, half price. 
 
 jg@="Visitors are requested not to pay the Guides, as they are furnished by 
 the Hotel, free of charge. 
 
 Fare from San Franciso to Calistoga, per steamer and cars, $3 50. Stages 
 from there to the Geysers, $6 00 per passage. 
 
 J. C. SUSENBETH. 
 
 p. S.— For further particulars, inquire at the office of J. S. POLACK, Esq., 
 Room No. I, N. W. corner of Jackson and Montgomery Streets, San Fran- 
 cisco. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 New Arrangement. 
 
 The undersigned, proprieior of the Lakeport and 
 Calistoga Stage Line, announces that from and after this 
 date, the 
 
 Regular U. S. Mail Line, 
 
 Carrying the Expresses will run between 
 
 Calistoga and Lakeport, 
 
 TRI-WEEKLY, 
 Connecting with the evening train of cars at Calistoga. 
 
 Leaves Lakeport at 4 o'clock, A. M,, for Calistoga, via Kel- 
 SEY Creek, Lower Lake, and Guexoc, on Mondays, Wednes- 
 days and Fridays, arriving at Calistoga, in time for passengers to 
 take the evening train for San Francisco. 
 
 Leaves Calistoga for Guenoc, Lower Lake, Kelsey Creek, 
 Lakeport, and Ukiah, at 8 o'clock, a. m., Tuesdays, ^J'hurs- 
 days and Saturdays. 
 
 WAY OR THROUGH TICKETS 
 
 Can be procured of "Wells, Fargo & Co.'s Agents at Lakeport, 
 Kelsey, Guenoc, Lower Lake, and Calistoga. 
 
 IV. M. DAVY. General Agent. 
 
 Thirty-five pounds of baggage allowed each passenger. Or- 
 ders promptly attended to 
 
 CHARLES McGREER, 
 
 Proprietor. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 Virginia Hotel. 
 
 [Stage House) 
 Lower Lake, Lake Co., Cal. 
 
 R, H. LAWRENCE, Proprietor. 
 
 Returning thanks to the public for former 
 favors, would respectfully solicit a continu- 
 ance of the same. 
 
 Plenty of Fishing Tackle, and a neat sail- 
 boat for the accomodation of Guests, and 
 good Livery Turnouts to be had in the town 
 at moderate charges. 
 
 This House is directly on the nearest and 
 best route to the lately discovered but 
 already celebrated ''Bartlett's Sprifigs,'' 
 twenty-five miles from this place. 
 
 Give us a call. 
 
 R. H. LAWRENCE. 
 
xviii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 SEIGLER SPRINGS 
 
 THE PUBLIC HOUSE at these celebrated Springs lias undergone 
 important alterations ; extensive porticos have been erected and the whole 
 supplied with new furniture and is now ready for the accommodation of 
 visitors. 
 
 These Mineral Springs are situated in Seigler Valley, Lake County, a 
 region of unrivalled scenery, the center of a cluster of the greatest 
 natural curiosities in the world, and within a few miles of the Quicksilver 
 Mines, Sulphur Bank, Borax Lake, Clear Lake and the Geysers. 
 
 Tourists pronounce this the most beautiful natural location for 
 Mineral Springs in the State. 
 
 At Seigler Springs a soft, clear, Italian-like climate greets the traveler, 
 and the summer air is healthful and everywhere laden with the delicious 
 fragrance of the fir, cedar and lofty pine . 
 
 Our Hot Springs are CHALYBEATE and Saline, containing minerals, 
 Alterative and Tonic, and the ONLY VALUABLE CHALYBEATE SPRINGS 
 known in the State. 
 
 When used as a beverage, or for bathing purposes, these waters 
 enter the blcJod and visit every portion of the system, opening obstruc- 
 tions that have existed, perhaps for years. Among the diseases cured 
 and relieved are the following: Agues, Intermittent Fevers, Neuralgia, 
 Rheumatism in all its forms, Palsy, Liver Complaint, Dyspepsia, Old 
 Sores, Eruptions, Scrofula. Local Diseases, Female Diseases, General 
 Debility, and in all cases in which a TONIC OR INVIGORATING 
 TREATMENT is required. The hot Chalybeate waters when drank cold 
 possess excellent purgative qualities. 
 
 We have Ground Baths, and large, commodious Bathing Rooms, so 
 regulated that persons can use our Mineral Baths at all temperatures, 
 from as hot as can be borne to the coldest shower bath. 
 
 Gentlemen fond of exercise will find game abounding on hill and 
 mountain, and our streams filled with the choicest Trout. 
 
 Route— There are good roads from the adjoining counties leading to 
 Seigler Springs and a daily stage from Oalistoga, connecting with Seigler 
 Junction, and from thence by hack to the Springs; also, private convey- 
 ance can be had at all hours, at the Lodi Livery Stables, CaUstoga, (on 
 reasonable terms) for this point or any other in this part of the State. 
 
 P. SNODGRASS, , T..._„,ietors. 
 
 J. T. BOONE, 
 
 f- Proprl 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xi> 
 
 Lakeport Hotel 
 
 LAKE COUNTY, . 
 
 MRS. S. V. CHAPMAN, 
 
 PROPRIETRESS. 
 
 Delightfully situated on the border of the 
 Lake, where boats with or without oarsmen 
 may at all times be hired at low rates. 
 
 Good fishing and shooting. 
 
 The House has been newly furnished and 
 refitted throughout. 
 
 Every attention paid to the comfort of 
 
 our ofuests. 
 
 Mr. Howard P. Wells, the owner of the 
 property, devotes his personal attention to 
 the requirements of visitors. 
 
 Board, $2 a day; $7 a week. 
 
XX TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 • 
 
 UKIAH HOUSE 
 
 W. G. ALBAN, - - Proprietor. 
 
 Having leased this well known and popular Hotel 
 and Boarding House, I am prepared to accommodate 
 the traveling public or regular boarders more comfort- 
 ably than any establishment this side of the Bay. 
 
 All the rooms in the house have been and are now 
 being 
 
 RE-FITTED AND RE-FURNISHED 
 
 and no pains will be spared to keep them clean, and 
 render the guest home comforts and good living. 
 
 Call and see for yourselves at the old sta7id. 
 
 CORNER MAIN AND STANDLEY STS. 
 
 UKIAH CITY. 
 
TOURIST'S GUU3E ADVERTISER. 
 
 FASHIOR 
 
 LIVERY STABLES, 
 
 STATE ST,, URIAH CITY, 
 
 Having leased this new and commodious building, 
 we are now prepared to keep 200 head of horses. 
 
 Bttggies, Carriages a7id Horses, 
 
 to let at reasonable rates. 
 
 Horses boarded by the day, week or month, and the 
 best care and attention given to all stock entrusted to 
 our care. 
 
 SMITH & RAMSEY, 
 
 In connection with the Stable we have a splendid 
 pair of FAIRBANKS' SCALES. Hay wagons and stock 
 weighed at reasonable rates. Give us a call. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 SANEL HOUSE, 
 
 JAMES SLOPER, Proprietor. 
 
 BOARD, gi A DAY; S5 A WEEK. 
 
 Sanel is situated in the Russian Valley, on the stage 
 road between Cloverdale and Ukiah, seventeen miles 
 from Cloverdale and fourteen miles from Ukiah. 
 
 The country around is extremely healthy and abounds 
 in game of every description; deer, bear, quails, &c., &c.; 
 also, good fishing. 
 
 Every attention will be paid to the comfort of those 
 who patronize my House. 
 
 SODA SPRINGS FOUR MILES NORTH. 
 
 Particular attention to the accommodation of Hunting 
 Parties. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO AND 
 
 North Pacific Railroad Co. 
 
 NEW ROUTE! QUICK TIME!! 
 
 THE SAN FRANCISCO AND NORTH PACIFIC R. R. 
 to Petaluma, S'onoma, Santa Rosa, and all intermediate points, via 
 Donahue Landing, by steamer to Donahue; and from thence by 
 cars to Petaluma and Santa Rosa, and by stages to Healdsburg, 
 Sonoma City and other points. 
 
 TIME TABLE— On and after Monday, January i6th, 1871, 
 the new and commodious steamer Sacramento, Capt. Wm. 
 Galloway, will leave daily, (Sundays excepted), until further 
 notice, as follows: From Jackson street Wharf, at 8.30 a, m.; 
 Trains will leave Santa Rosa at 10 a. m., Petaluma, 10.50 a. m., 
 Donahue at 11.20 a. m. and arrive at San Francisco at 1,45 p. m. 
 Through tickets to be had on board. Shippers and the traveling 
 public will find this the most expeditious and comfortable route. 
 
 NOTICE TO SHIPPERS -Freight received on dock until 
 8.30 a. m. and after 12 m. For further information, inquire at 
 the office, Room 12, over Hibernia Bank. 
 
 P. DONAHUE, President. 
 
 SUNDAY TIME TABLE.— Steamer leaves as usual, 8.30 
 a. m. arrives at Santa Rosa 12.30 p. m. Stage for Sonoma at 
 12 m. 
 
 Returning — Leaves* Santa Rosa at 3 p. m.; Petaluma at 
 3.40 p. m.; Sonoma at 2 p. m.; arrives in San Francisco about 
 6 p. m. 
 
 Fare for round trip to Santa Rosa and back, only $3. 
 
 P. DONAHUE. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 TAMALPAIS HOTEL, 
 
 San Rafael, Mariii County, CaL 
 
 14 MILES FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 This Hotel is situated in the charming valley of San 
 Rafael, which for salubrity of climate, beauty of scenery 
 and convenience of access is unsurpassed by any other 
 locality in the State. 
 
 Horses can be obtained at the Hotel for the purpose 
 of making the ascent of Mount Tamalpais, (2,600 feet 
 high) which can be done within three hours and without 
 a guide, on the new road that has recently been made 
 to the summit. 
 
 Visitors will take the Steamer ''Contra Costa," foot of 
 Broadway, at 9.30 a. m., i, 4,30 p. m., daily, Sundays ex- 
 cepted, and will reach San Rafael within i:^ hours. 
 
 Returning — trains leave at 8, 11 a. m., and 2.45 p. m. 
 
 The Hotel OmnilDus will be found at the Depot on 
 the arrival of each train and will convey passengers and 
 baggage to and from the Hotel, free of charge. 
 
 R. PARDOJV, Jr., 
 
 SAN RAFAEL. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER, 
 
 AMERICAN HOTEL, 
 
 Main Street, Petahuna. 
 MRS. WM. ORDWAY, Proprietress. 
 
 This Hotel, first-class in every particular, is the leading 
 house in this city and one of the best hotels on the 
 coast. 
 
 THE BUILDING is a large, three-story, fire-proof 
 brick, situated in the center of the business part of the 
 city, well ventilated, supplied with water and gas, perfectly 
 arranged with a view to comfort and convenience, 
 containing sixty three rooms, elegant parlor, pleasant 
 reading room, first-class Bar and Billiard room. Hair 
 Dressing Saloon and Cigar Stand. 
 
 THE ROOMS, single and en-suite, are large, with 
 high ceilings, well ventilated and elegantly furnished. 
 
 THE TABLE is supplied with the best the market 
 affords, prepared and served in first-class style. 
 
 A LIVERY STABLE is connected with the Hotel. 
 Splendid Carriages are furnished upon notice at the office, 
 
 OMNIBUSES convey guests to and from the Hotel 
 to cars and steamers, free of charge. 
 
 STAGES from the city leave from this Hotel. 
 
 Tourists, visiting the city, are shown every courtesy 
 and attention in all departments of the Hotel. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 California Livery Stable s 
 
 H. B. HASBROUCK, Proprietor. 
 
 Washington Street, 
 
 Petaluma. 
 
 Elegant Carriages of all descriptions with the best 
 trained horses, either for carriage or the saddle. 
 
 Pleasure parties furnished with the best of teams and 
 careful and experienced drivers. 
 
 There are beautiful drives in the neighborhood, and 
 many points of interest which travelers and tourists 
 should visit. The proprietor can furnish any number 
 of conveyances for the purpose at short notice and on 
 very reasonable terms. 
 
 H. B. HASBROUCK. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 KESSING HOTEL. 
 
 F. H. COE, Proprietor. 
 
 MAIN STREET, - SANTA ROSA, 
 
 This new and well furnished Hotel is now 
 open for the accommodation of the public. 
 In all its departments the House is well 
 adapted to insure the comfort of all who 
 patronize it. The Proprietor will exert his 
 utmost endeavors to accommodate, in an 
 agreeable manner, all who favor him with 
 their patronage. 
 
 FRANK H. COE, 
 
 Proprietor. 
 
 2a 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 FASHION 
 
 LIVERY STABLE 
 
 NEW BRICK, NO. 9, 
 
 Corner of Main and Second Streets, 
 SANTA ROSA, 
 
 Buggies, Carriages and Saddle Horses at 
 low rates and short notice. 
 
 Persons visiting the Geysers, and localities 
 of interest in that vicinity, will find it to 
 their advantage to give me a call. 
 
 A large number of stalls and sheds, and 
 a large corral connected with the Stable, 
 
 Particular attention paid to transient stock. 
 
 7. P. CLARK, 
 
 Proprietor, 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 SOTOYOME HOUSE, 
 
 HEALDSBURG, 
 
 SONOMA COUNTY, - - CALIFORNIA. 
 
 This long established House has gained a wide-spread 
 reputation throughout this section of the State for its 
 home-like conveniences and comfortable apartments. 
 
 Here the stranger is made to feel himself at home, 
 and his every want anticipated. 
 
 The Rooms are neatly furnished and well ventilated, 
 and the Table supplied with the best the Market 
 affords.. 
 
 This village being situated on the west bank of the 
 Russian River, in a pleasant and healthful valley, is a 
 most inviting resort for the invalid and pleasure seeker. 
 
 B. C. WRIGHT, 
 
 Proprietor. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 Healdsburg & Santa Rosa 
 
 Livery Stables. 
 
 Emerson, Hawkins & Co. 
 
 Having extensive Stables, both in Healds- 
 burg and Santa Rosa, are prepared to furnish 
 every kind of vehicle on short notice, for 
 any part of the Country, 
 
 Carriages for the Geysers and to all points 
 of interest in or around the valleys. Horses 
 and carriages may be engaged from us, 
 either at Healdsburg or Santa Rosa and left 
 at any other point as may be desired. 
 
 Mr. N. W. Bostwick has charge of the 
 business at Santa Rosa, where he will grant 
 every facility to those who favor him with 
 their patronage. 
 
 Emerson, Hawkiits & Bostwick. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xxxi 
 
 Cloverdale HoteL 
 
 THOMAS S. COLVIN, Proprieton 
 
 CL O VERDALE, - CALIFORNIA. 
 
 This House has just been enlarged to 
 more than double its former size, newly 
 furnished throughout, and is now open to 
 
 THE TRAVELING PUBLIC 
 
 The Proprietor will endeavor to keep the 
 House to the satisfaction of all 
 
 Daily Sta£-es to all pa^'ts of the Country, 
 
xxxii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 CLOVERDALE 
 
 LIVERY STABLE 
 
 CLOVERDALE. 
 
 HALL, CURTLS & BRUSH. 
 
 We have constantly on hand a large stock 
 of horses and carriages in fine runningr order. 
 
 Pleasure and excursion parties, and all 
 who desire to drive around our beautiful 
 valley, will find all their requirements at our 
 Stable, at the lovv^est rates. 
 
 HALL, CURTIS & BRUSH, 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 Cloverdale and Mendocino 
 
 TRI- WEEKLY 
 
 STAGE LINE. 
 
 yESSE D, CARR & CO,, Proprietors, 
 
 Carrying U. S. Mail and Wells, Fargo & Go's Express. 
 Fare to Anderson Valley (Booneville), $4; to Navarra, 
 |7; to Albion, $7; to Little River, $8; to Mendocino, 
 
 $8. 
 
 Navarra Hotel. 
 
 MOORE BROTHERS, - Proprietors. 
 
 BOARD, $7 per week; $1.50 per day. 
 
 Well located on the banks of the Sabine Creek, with a 
 fine view of the Ocean; surrounded by a heavy redwood 
 forest. Good Hunting and Fishing in the neighborhood. 
 
xxxiv TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 EMERSON HOUSE, 
 
 CLOVERDALE. 
 PERRY M. EMERSON, - Proprietor, 
 
 Board, $2 a day; $8 to %\2 a week. 
 
 Special attention paid to the comfort and 
 accommodation of families, tourists, pleasure 
 parties and the traveling public. 
 
 The House is a fire-proof brick, neat and 
 well kept. 
 
 Persons wishing to spend some time in 
 the country, can find no pleasanter place. 
 Suites of rooms for families. 
 
 PERRY M. EMERSON. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 SKAGGS' 
 
 HOT SPRINGS. 
 
 B. FRANK TUCKER, Proprietor. 
 
 This delightful and justly celebrated v/atering place, 
 located in a romantic valley, 14 miles southwest from 
 Healdsburg, Sonoma County, has been leased by the 
 undersigned for a term of years; he has thoroughly 
 renovated and re-furnished the Hotel and Cottages, 
 making this establishment on a par with any simular 
 resort in the State. Tourists, pleasure seekers or invalids 
 will find this watering place unsurpassed for the salubrity 
 of its climate, the beauty of its scenery, the medicinal 
 virtues of its mineral waters, and in its facilities for 
 HUNTING AND TROUT FISHING. 
 
 Guests may be assured that nothing will be omitted 
 on the part of the proprietor, which can add to their 
 comfort. 
 
 B. FRANK TUCKER, 
 
 Proprietor. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 THE CALIFORNIA 
 
 Cotton Growers and Mamtfactiirers 
 ASSOCIATION, 
 
 Incorporated for 2^years,fro7n April lo, 1871, to April 10, 
 
 CAPITAL STOCK, - ^500,000.00 
 
 25,000 SHARES OF $20 EACH. UNASSESSABLE. 
 
 The objects of The California Cotton Growers and Manufactureks 
 Association, are briefly: To grow Cotton, and to manufacture the same on 
 their plantation — to save freights — into Domestic Fabrics. 
 
 Money, Land, Machinery, Tools, Horses, Harness, and any value that can 
 be made available for the benefit of the enterprise, will be acceptable for the 
 paid up Certificates of the Stock of the Association. 
 
 TRUSTEES.— Gov. H. H. Haight, William C. Ralston, Charles J. 
 Pilsbury, Edward B. Neely, James Dale Johnston, Edward Spilker, H. H. 
 Bancroft, Robert Christy, J. M. Strong, John Wieland, Charles Rowe. 
 
 Parties living at a distance, but who may desire to secure Shares in the 
 Stock of the Association, can have their Certificates Mailed or Expressed, on 
 the General Agent receiving Post office Order, or the Receipt of any Banker, 
 for Amount Deposited to the Credit of THE CALIFORNIA COTTON 
 GROWERS AND MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATION. 
 
 JAMES DALE JOHNSTON, Secretary, 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xxxvii 
 
 H. ROSEKRA.NS. . S. READ. 
 
 H. ROSEKRANS & Co. 
 
 IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN 
 
 HARDWARE, 
 
 Builders' Materials, Carpenters' Tools, 
 
 HO USE-FURNISHING UTENSILS, 
 
 AND ALL KINDS OF 
 
 shelf hardware, 
 135 Montgomery Street 
 
 NEAE BUSH STREET, 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
xxxviii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 ESTIMATE OF CAPITAL STOCK— INVESTMENT— PRODUCTION- 
 SALARIES-INSURANCE AND CONTINGENT 
 EXPENSES OF THE 
 
 CALIFORNIA 
 Silk Manufacturing Co 
 
 FOE THE FIRST OPERATIVE YEAR. 
 
 Capital Stock --.-... $50,000 
 Estimate of Investment: 
 
 Site, Building, Machinery, Safe and Fixtures - - $22,000 
 
 Active Capital ... 28,000 
 
 3. Estimate of Production .... $150,000 
 
 Profit, 33^^ per cent. ... $50,000 
 
 $78,000 
 
 4. Estimate of General Expenses, Salaries, Insurance etc. $8,700 
 
 Contingent Expense Account ... 1,000 $9,700 
 
 $68,300 
 Deduct Active Capital as in Estimate No. 2 ... 28,000 
 
 Profit on first year's Manufacturing, to be Divided amongst Stock- 
 holders, /rci r^?/^ ---... $40,300 
 
 The furegoing exhibit shows the operations of the 3'ear, dating from com- 
 mencement, as having cleared Estimai e No. 2, being the amount of 1 nvestment 
 in Site, Building, Machinery, Safes and Fixtures, and, in addition to the 
 preservation of the working Active Capital of $28,000, clearing a dividing 
 profit of $40,300. The profits of succeeding years will constantly grow larger. 
 
 It is expected that discriminating men of business will readily avail 
 themselves of this organization, relatively to make money, and to incidentally 
 promote the prosperity of the trade of the City of San Francisco and the 
 Pacific Coast, and purchase the Stock offered bj' the Company while it is at 
 par, as it will shortly command a premium. No more solid basis, as a 
 remunerative business to invest in, can be possibly presented. 
 
 Officers of the Co7npany: — 1". Ellsworth, President; Jas. Dale Johnston, 
 Secretary; Ex Gov. P. H. Burnett, President Pacific Bank, Treasurer. 
 
 Trustees: — Henry F. Williams, Timothy Ellsworth, Hiram Rosekrans, 
 Charles J. Pilsbury, James Dale Johnston. 
 
 OFFICE, 125 SANSOME STREET, ROOM 50. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 G. GROEZINGER, , 
 
 CALIFORNIA 
 
 Red &Wliite Wines 
 
 PORT, SHERRY, ANGELICA, 
 
 CALIFORNIA GRAPE BRANDIES 
 
 ETC., ETC. 
 
 JV. W. cor7ier Battery and Phie Sts,, 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 The undersigned, owning 370 acres of the choicest vineyard 
 land in Napa Valley, planted with the best varieties of German 
 and French grapes, has erected an extensive building at Yount- 
 ville for the storage and manufacture of Wines, the capacity of 
 which is 300,000 gallons. In addition to the supply from his 
 own vineyard, large quantities of grapes are purchased from the 
 upper and lower valleys. Only the best and most experienced 
 Wine Makers and Distillers from Germany and France are 
 employed in this establishment. 
 
 He is prepared to fill all orders for any of the above articles, 
 of guaranteed purity and the finest quality and flavor. 
 
 G. GROEZINGER. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 PIANOS, ORGANS, 
 
 MUSIC PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 NEW PIANO AGENCY.— Messrs. A. L. Bancroft & Co. 
 have organized, under the management of Wm. Henry Knight, 
 a MUSIC DEPARTMENT, where may be found a complete 
 assortment of PIANOS, ORGANS, SHEET MUSIC AND 
 MUSIC PUBLICATIONS. Following are some of their spec- 
 ialties: 
 
 I. The GEORGI PL\NO-FORTE— a new and magnificent 
 instrument; in every respect strictly first-class, and becoming 
 very popular in the East. 
 
 II. The PRINCE ORGANS AND MELODEONS.— 
 There are 46,500 of these now in use. They are unsurpassed 
 among reed organs. 
 
 III. The McCAMMON PIANOS, formerly known as the 
 celebrated " Boardman & Gray" Piano. A very superior, moderate 
 pi iced instrument. 
 
 IV. The COTTAGE AND SCHOOL PIANO.— In small 
 sized cases, elegant in appearance, of low cost, and very durable. 
 
 V. HOOK'S PIPE ORGANS FOR CHURCHES.— The ' 
 best manufactured. 
 
 VI. LUNAN'S GERMAN UPRIGHT PIANOS.— Fine- 
 toned, thoroughly well made instruments. 
 
 VII. MUSIC PUBLICATIONS.— Sheet Music, Instruction 
 Books, etc., etc. 
 
 For Descriptive Circulars and Price Lists, address or apply to 
 
 A. L. BANCROFT & COMPANY, 
 Music Department, 
 Bancroft's Building, SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xli 
 
 THE CALIFORNIA 
 
 INK COMPANY, 
 
 405 & 407 SANSOME STREET, 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 GEORGE L. FAULKNER, Agent. 
 
 Are manufacturing Writing Inks of different colors, equal if 
 not superior to those of Eastern or Foreign manufacture. 
 
 For our Black Writing Fluid, we claim: 
 
 1st. — That it will not corrode or clog the pen, but keep it 
 always in a bright, clean condition. 
 
 2d. — That there is no sediment that can settle and impair 
 the color, 
 
 3d. — That it flows freely from, and is of a rich, deep color 
 as soon as it leaves the pen. 
 
 4th. — It is not affected by acids, as an acid that would remove 
 the ink will eat up the paper. 
 
 5th. — It cannot be washed off with water. 
 
 6th. — It is a California production, and the manufacture of 
 the same keeps thousands of dollars in the State, that have hitherto 
 been sent abroad for Ink. 
 
 We also make a superior article of MUCILAGE that cannot 
 be excelled for its adhesive qualities. 
 
 LIQUID LAUNDRY BLUEING.— A convenient and relia- 
 ble preparation, to take the place of all others hitherto used for 
 Laundry purposes. Put up in 8 oz. bottles and gallon jars. 
 
 The attention of the trade is respectfully solicited to these 
 manufactures. Perfect satisfaction guaranteed. 
 
 Refer, by permission, to Messrs. A. L, Bancroft & Company, 
 who are selling large quantities of our Writing Inks and Mucilage. 
 
 CALIFORNIA INK COMPANY, 
 
 GEO. L. FAULKiNER, Agent. 
 
xlii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 JOSEPH ISAAC. H. ROEITSCHECK. 
 
 J. ISAAC & CO., 
 
 IMPORTERS AND JOBBERS OF 
 
 Stationery, Blank Books, 
 
 MANILA AND WRAPPING PAPERS, 
 Playing Cards, Labels, Liquor Essences, 
 
 ETC., ETC., ETC. 
 
 5/j Sansome St., cor. Merchant, 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 J. ISAAC & CO'S 
 
 Paper Warehouse. 
 
 DEALERS IN PAPERS 
 
 OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS, 
 
 Envelopes, Inks, Twine, Playing Cards 
 
 LIQUOR AND WINE LABELS, 
 
 ESSENTIAL OILS, ETC., ETC 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xliii 
 
 Blake, Robbins & Co., 
 
 IMPORTERS AND JOBBERS OF 
 
 Bookj, NewSj Writing and 
 
 WRAPPING PAPER, 
 
 Paper Bags, Card Stock, Straw Paper, 
 Straw and Binders' Board, Inks, Bronzes, Etc. 
 
 AGENTS FOR 
 
 Carson's Celebrated Letter Papers, 
 
 INFERIOR TO NONE. 
 
 Agents for Dexter's Manila Papers. 
 Agents for Whiting Mill Paper, 
 
 AND OTHER LEADING BRANDS. 
 
 ^ i6 Sacramento & ^ ig Commercial Sts. 
 
 San Francisco. 
 
 Francis Blake, J 
 
 James Moffitt, [ San Francisco. 
 
 Chas. F. Robbins, ) 
 
 James W. Towne, New York. 
 
 New York Office, i8 and 20 Vesey Street, 
 
xliv TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 FOR THE VERY 
 
 Best Photographs, 
 
 GO TO 
 
 BRADLEY 
 
 AND 
 
 RULOFSON, 
 
 429 Montgomery Street, 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 Closed on Sundays. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xlv 
 
 FOR FINE HirS 
 
 GO TO 
 
 J. C. MeussdorfFer. 
 
 NORTH EAST CORNER 
 
 OF 
 
 Montgomery & Bush Sts, 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
xlvi TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 McAfee, Spiers & Co., 
 
 Boiler Alakers and 
 GENERAL MACHINISTS. 
 
 High and Low- Pressure Boilers, 
 
 STATIONARY AND MARINE. 
 
 Howard St., bet. Fremont and Beale, 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 Also Orders received for every descrip- 
 tion of Machinery. 
 
 Having 24 years' experience in this business, we feel 
 confident of being able to compete, as to quality of work, 
 with any establishment on the Pacific Coast. 
 
 Particular and personal attention given to repairs of 
 old boilers on steamships and steamboats. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xlvii 
 
 The shortest and best route to 
 
 rOSEMlTE VALLET. 
 
 C. p. R, jR. to Modesto, thence by stage to 
 
 Cotdterville, Bower Cave, Pilot 
 
 Peak and Crane Flat. 
 
 Leaves Modesto qp Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 5 
 o'clock, A.M., arrives at Coulterville at 2 P. M.; distance 50 
 miles; leaving Coulterville at 4P.M., arrive at I3ovver Cave, 
 at 7 P. M. Next morning leave Bower Cave at 6 A, M., and arrive 
 at Crane Flat at ii A.M. Take Saddle Horse and arrive at the 
 Hotels in the Valley, at 4 o'clock, P. M., 15 miles horseback. 
 Returning, leave Yosemite at 7 o'clock, A. M., distance, 46 miles, 
 arrive at Coulterville at 5 o'clock, p. M., leave Coulterville at 5 
 A. M,, arrive at Modesta, at 4 o'clock p. M. 
 
 The above rouce is superior to all others, as there is less time 
 consumed on the road, more rest, and the whole route gives finer 
 scenery than by any other, from the fact that after you strike the 
 foot hills, you pass along the dividing ridge between the O'uolumne 
 and Merced rivei's, to the East, the Sierra Nevada, with Castle 
 Peak, Mount Dames, and other prominent points, to the West, is 
 the San Joaquin, and the Coast Range; also less dust than any 
 other route, as the route is East and West, and the north winds 
 that are almost constantly blowing, carry the dust from you. 
 
 And as a round trip is aHvays desirable; parties can go by 
 Coulterville, and out via Big Trees and Mariposa, or vice versa. 
 
 By the first of June, there will be but 2% miles horseback 
 riding into the valley. 
 
 The nights at 13ower Cave are cool and refreshing, unsur- 
 passed on the whole route. 
 
 Through Tickets for sale at all the railroad offices, Sacra- 
 mento and Eathrop. 
 
 G. PV. COULTER, Agent. 
 
 Office at C. B. & W; R. R. R. office 214 Montg'y Street. 
 
xlviii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 THE SHORTEST AND 
 
 BEST ROUTE TO YOSEMITE 
 Via .Modesto. 
 
 ROSS HOUSE, MODESTO. 
 
 J AS. COLE, Proprietor, 
 
 Tourists will find this House conducted in first-class 
 style. Charges moderate, and every attention paid to 
 Guests. Stages leave this House daily for iSnelling's, 
 Hornitas, Mariposa, Yosemite, and all points south. 
 
 YOSEMITE STABLES, 
 
 MODESTO, CAL. 
 
 HORSES, CARRIAGES AND SADDLE HORSES 
 
 To let on reasonable terms. 
 
 Horses boarded with the best of care, by the day or week. 
 
 Private Teams Furnished at the shortest notice; also Two 
 
 Four or Six Horse Turnouts furnished for Tourists, 
 
 with Concord or Kimball Carriages, with careful 
 
 and experienced Drivers. 
 
 F. H. ROSS, Proprietor, 
 
 Modesto is situated at the terminus of the Visalia Division of the C. P. R. R. 
 
 The Ross House, also the Yosemite Stables were built by F. H. Ross, almost 
 exclusively for the accommodation of Tourists, and no pains will be spared to 
 make their visit to the House, or transit to the valley comfortable and pleasant. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xlix 
 
 VALUABLE BOOKS, 
 
 For Children and Youth. 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 ANDREW F. GRACES, 
 
 20 CORNHILL, BOSTON, MASS. 
 
 THE SUNSHINE SERIES.— By H. N. W. B. Six volnmes. i8mo., $3.60 
 
 This is an entirely new series of books, by one of the best writers of juvenile 
 books. They are put up in a neat box, and will be found excellent for the 
 "Sabbath School Library." 
 
 AMY GARNETT. One vol., 16 mo. $1.25 
 
 LYNDANEWTON.— By Mrs L.J. H.Frost. 16 mo., - - - 1.50 
 
 An excellent book, and one which will interest every one. 
 DAVY'S MOTTO. 16 mo., . . - 1.25 
 
 It is better to do well than to say well is the motto. 
 JOE AND THE HOWARDS; or Armed with Eyes. By Carl. 16 mo 1.25 
 
 It gives much valuable information in regard to insects, both on land and 
 water, in such a manner as cannot fail to amuse children, while it is storing their 
 minds with that which is useful for them to know. 
 THE RAINFORD SERIES.— By Glance Gaylord. 
 
 Four volumes in box, -...-.... $6.00 
 THE WOODBINE SERIES.— By Mrs. Madeline Lesle. i6mo. Il- 
 lustrated, ........... 1.25 
 
 This is an entire new set, by a very popular author. Other volumes will be 
 issued from time to time. The title pages are printed in colors. 
 THE ARLINGTON SERIES. 4 vols., i6mo. 
 
 Four volumes in bo.x, -..-.-... $5.50 
 
 THE PERCY FAMILY.— By Rev. D. C. Eddy, D. D. 
 
 Five volumes with neat box, - - - - -- - - 5.00 
 
 THE CEDAR BROOK STORIES, or the Clifford Children. By Mrs. 
 A. S. M., author of" Only a Pauper." 5 vols. i8mo. 
 The five volumes handsomely illustrated sn a neat box with illuminated' 
 
 covers, -. 3.25 
 
 CORWIN'S WEST'S SERIES.— 6 vols in a box, .... 4,50 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 GET THE BEST BOOKS 
 
 FOR THE CHILDREN, 
 
 EfQe Wingate's Work. By Mary Dwiuell Chellis, - - - - $1.50 
 
 Dea. Sim's Prayers. By Mary Dvvinell Chellis, - - - - 1.50 
 
 Pleasant Pages and Bible Pictures, 20 illustrations; - - - 1.50 
 
 Carl Bartlettor What cau I do? By D. S. Ericsou, 1 vol. - 1.25 
 
 Bill Drock's luvestment. By Mary Dwinell Chellis, 1 vol. - - l.-'iO 
 
 The Old Doctor's i-OLi. By alary Dwinell Chellis, - - - 1.50 
 
 Mr. Pendleton's Cup. By Glance Gaylord, 1.25 
 
 Miss Patience Hathaway. By Glance Gaylord, - - - . 1,50 
 
 Donald Dcane. By Glance Gaylord, -.-... 1.50 
 
 Good Measure. A story for boys. By D. S. Ericson, - - 1.50 
 
 Clean Your Boots, Sir? A capital story lor boys, - - - - .60 
 
 The Little Peanut Merchant 1.25 • 
 
 Molly's Bible. By Miss M^ry D. Chellis, 1.50 
 
 Truth and Trust, or Iron AJoun tain, 1.25 
 
 Hopes and Fears, or Broad Oaks, 1.25 
 
 Good for Evil, or Rose Cottage, ------- 1.25 
 
 Sidney de Grey, or the Rival School Boys. By Lawrence Lancewood, 1.25 
 
 Nellie Wairen, or the Lost Watch. By Lawrence Lancewood, Esq., 1.25 
 
 Louis Sinclair. By Lawrence L mcewood, Esq., ... 1.25 
 
 Mark Diiuuiug's Enemy. By Mary Dwiuell Chellis, . - . I.50 
 
 The Hermit ot Holcombe. By Mary Dwiuell Chellis, - - 1.50 
 
 Breaking the Rules, 1.25 
 
 Earl Whiting, 1.25 
 
 The Runaway Boy, - - 1.25 
 
 Nellie Milton's Housekeeping, 1.25 
 
 Brownie San dford, 1.25 
 
 Sylvia's Burden. - 1.25 
 
 Ruth Lovell, - 1.25 
 
 Cousin Clara. By Lawrence Lancewood, 1.25 
 
 Jamie Noble, 1.25 
 
 f-eter Clinton. By Lawrence Lancewood, 1.25 
 
 A Hole in the Pocket. By Aunt Hattic, 1.25 
 
 Stopping the Leak. By Autjt Hattie, 1.25 
 
 Lost but Found. By Aunt Hattie, 1.25 
 
 Fashion and Folly. By Aunt Hattie, - ' 1.25 
 
 Gypsy Breynton. By Miss E. Stuart Phelps. 1.25 
 
 Gypsy's Cousin Joy. By Miss E Stuart Phelps, ... - 1.25 
 
 Gypsy's Sowing and Reaping. By Miss E. Stuart Phelps, - . 1.25 
 
 Gypsy's Year at the Golden Crescent, By Miss E. Stuart Phelps, 1.25 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 HENRY A. YOUNG & CO., 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 SUBSCRIBE FOR THE 
 
 Overland Monthly 
 
 The 07ily Literary Magazine 
 PUBLISHED ON THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 The Seventh Volume of this popular California Magazine 
 will commence with the July Number for 1871. Its popularity 
 has induced the publishers to make still greater exertions in 
 producing an interesting and instructive periodical. 
 
 Terms: — $4.00 per ^cmwam., payable 
 in advance. 
 
 Club Rates: — Two copies, $7.00; 
 Fivecopies,$i6.oo; Tencopies,$30.oo; 
 and each additional copy, $3.00. lor 
 every Club of Twenty Subscribers, an 
 extra copy will be furnished GRATIS. 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 JOHN H. CARMANY & CO. 
 
 No. 409 WASHINGTON STREET 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 3^ 
 
lii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 Thurnauer & Zinn, 
 
 IMPORTERS OF 
 
 French and German Fancy Baskets, 
 
 ENGLISH AND AMERICAN WILLOW WARE, 
 
 TOYS, FANCY GOODS 
 
 AND YANKEE NOTIONS, 
 
 CANE AND WILLOW CHAIRS, 
 
 LADIES' WOEK STANDS, 
 
 Wooden Ware, Feather Dusters, Brushes, 
 
 ETC., ETC., ETC. 
 
 533 MARKET STREET, 
 
 Opposite Sutter and Sansome Streets, SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. llii 
 
 FOR SAVING VALUABLE PAPERS, 
 NOTHING EQUALS 
 
 SHIPMAN'S 
 
 pate>;t adhesive 
 
 Letter and Invoice File. 
 
 We would respectfully call the attention of Business Men, 
 Bankers and others,to our Patent Adhesive Letter and Invoice File. 
 
 We claim that it is the best article in use for th'e preservation 
 of all kinds of printed or written documents, such as Letters, 
 Invoices, Bills, &c. &c. They are in use by most of the Business 
 Firms and Companies in the United States. 
 
 Its form is that of a scrap book, of various sizes, having narrow 
 leaves with adhesive surface, which requires only to be moistened 
 and the document applied; thus it becomes a book of 250 or 500 
 letters, arranged in the order of da^es, secure from loss or misplace- 
 ment, and as convenient for reference as a ledger account — and 
 this with the least expense of time. Every lover of order or 
 economist of time must appreciate its importance. 
 
 We also keep constantly on hand, in great variety. Invoice 
 and Scrap Books, Letter Copying Books, Blank Books and a full 
 assortment of Stationery. 
 
 ASA L. SHIPMAN & SONS, 
 
 25 Chambers Street, New York. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 LORING'S 
 RAILWAY NOVELS! 
 
 WE COMIMEND THEM TO ALL TRAVELERS. 
 
 ASK FOR THEM AT THE BOOKSTORES, AT THE DEPOT 
 
 NEWS STANDS, OF THE BOYS IN THE CARS, 
 
 AND ON THE BOATS. 
 
 LORING'S SUCCESSFUL BOOKS: 
 
 Louise M. Alcott's Moods, - - - - - - $1.25 
 
 " " Three Proverb Stories, - - .75 
 
 Virginia F. Townsend's Hollands, - - - - 1.25 
 
 " The Mills of Tuxbury, - 1.25 
 
 Laura Caxton's Marion Berkley, ----- 1.50 
 
 George McDonald's Robert Falconer, - - - 2.00 
 
 «' " David Elginbrod, - - - - 1-75 
 
 " " Adele Cathcart, - - - 1-75 
 
 " " Phantasies, - - - - . - 1.75 
 
 Mrs. A. D. T. Whitney's Hitherto, . - - - 2.00 
 
 «' " " The Gayworthys, - - - 2.00 
 
 " " " Patience Strong's Outings, - I.V5 
 
 «' " " Mother Goose for Grown Folks, 1.50 
 
 " " " Faith Gartney's Girlhood, - 1.50 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 STANDARD SCHOOL BOOKS 
 
 PUBLISHED AND 
 
 For sale by Charles Desilver, 
 No. 1229 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia. 
 
 And by Booksellers generally throughout the Union and the Canadas. 
 
 Descriptive Catalogues furnished on applicatio7t, and any book sent by mail 
 postage paid, on receipt of the advertised price. 
 
 STANDARD SPEAKERS. 
 
 Sargent's Standard Speaker, half roan, ------ $2 50 
 
 Sargent's Intermediate Standard Speaker, half-turkey morocco, - - 2 00 
 
 Sargent's Primary Standard Speaker, half-roan, .... 5o 
 
 Sargent's Selections in Poetry, half-morocco, - - - . . i 50 
 
 Frost's American Speaker, half-roan, 168 
 
 STANDARD SCHOOL HISTORIES. 
 
 Lord's History of the United States, half-morocco, . . . . i 68 
 
 Lord's Modern History, half-morocco, ----.. 2 25 
 
 Summary of History, designed to accompany Lord's Modern History. 
 
 I vol., i2mo., cloth, 60 
 
 Frost's History of the United States. i2mo., half roan, . - -168 
 
 Frost's History of the United States, royal iSmo , half-roan, - - i 00 
 
 History of England, Pinnock's improved edition of Goldsmith, revised by 
 
 W. C. Taylor, LL. D., i vol. i2mo., half roan, . . . i 75 
 
 History of France, by W. C. Taylor, LL. D. . i vol. i2mo., half-roan, . i 75 
 History of Rome, Pinnock's improved edition of Goldsmith, revised by W. 
 
 C. Taylor, LL. D., i vol. i2mo., half-roan, - - - - i 75 
 
 NATURAL SCIENCES. 
 
 Johnston's Turner's Chemistry, half turkey, - . . . . -2 50 
 Johnston's Turner's Elements of Chemistry, i vol. i2mo., half-morocco, i 68 
 Johnston's Natural Philosophy, r vol. i2mo., half-turkey morocco, i 75 
 
 Johnston's Primary Natural Philosophy, i vol. i8mo., half-roan, - 75 
 
 Guy's Astronomy and Keith on the Globes, i vol. i2mo., half-roan, i 25 
 
 CLASSICAL WORKS. 
 
 Virgil, Gaesar, Horace, Cicero, Sallust, Ovid, Juvenal, half-turkey moroc- 
 co, each, 2 25 
 
 Xenophon's Anabasis, and Homer's Iliad, half-turkey morocco, each, 2 75 
 
 Clarke's Practical and Progressive Latin Grammar, half-turkey morocco, i 75 
 
 Gospel of St. John, translation with the original Greek text, - - 275 
 Livy. Interlinear translation by Hamilton and Clarke. {In Press.) 
 To be followed by School Editions of other Classic Authors on the same plan 
 
 For sale by A. L. Bancroft & Co,, 
 
 721 Market St., San Francisco, Cal. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
 The Most Popular Novels 
 
 ARE THE 
 
 SCHWARTZ NOVELS. 
 
 Translated from the Swedish of Madame Marie 
 
 Sophie Schwartz, by Miss Selma Borg, 
 
 and Miss IMarie A. Brown. 
 
 NOW READY. 
 
 GUILT AND INNOCENCE. Paper, $i oo; Cloth. ,^i 50. 
 
 " Madame Schwartz is a writer of much greater literary merit than Miss 
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Ixxii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 
 
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TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. Ixxiii 
 
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 Self- instructor, 75Cts. Phrenology and the Scripture, 25cts. Chart of Physiog- 
 nomy, 25CtS. 
 
 How .TO Write— How to Talk— How to Behave— How to do 
 Business. Bound in one large handsome volume, post paid, $2.25. It is a 
 capital Book for Agents. 
 
 Sent by mail, post-paid, on receipt of price, by S. R. WELLS, Publisher, 
 389 Broadway. Agents wanted. 
 
 N. B.— For sale by A. L. BANCROFT & CO., San Francisco, California. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. Ixxvii 
 
 KAY & BROTHER, ' 
 
 LawPiiblishers, Booksellers 
 
 AND IMPORTERS, 
 
 17 & 19 SOUTH SIXTH STREET, 
 
 PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 PUBLISH 
 
 Brightly's Digest of the Laws of the United States, 2 \\A 
 
 8vo. 
 
 Brightly's Digest of Federal Decisions, 2 vols. Svo. - 
 Brightly's Bankrupt Law, Svo. . - - . . 
 Wharton's American Criminal Law, 3 vols. Svo. 
 \Vharton's Precedents of Indictments and ]*leas,2 vols. Svo, 
 Wharton's Law Dictionary, Svo. .... 
 Wharton's Conflict of Laws, or Private InternaLional Lav 
 
 Svo. (In preparation.) - . - - . 
 \Vharton and Stelle's Medicarjurisprudcnce, Svo. 
 Hilliard on Injunctions, Svo. ' - 
 
 tlilliard on New Trials, Svo. 
 
 Hilliard on Contracts, 2 vols. Svo. (In preparation.) 
 Pennsylvania State Reports,vols,i3to63; 51 vols,8vo.per vol. 4.50 
 etc., etc., etc., etc. 
 
 Kay & Brother always keep on hand a fall asso-.-iniint of 
 the Current Law Publications, together with many books nov/ 
 cither scarce or out of print, at the veiy lowest prices. 
 
 Letters of inquiry promptly answered. 
 
 16. 
 
 50 
 
 ^3 
 
 5,0 
 
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 00 
 
 22 
 
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 7 
 
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TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER, 
 
 LINCOLN HOTEL, 
 
 FESCADERO. 
 
 CAPT. CIIAS. KINSEY, Proprietor. 
 
 This Hotel, one of the best public houses at any of the 
 summer resorts in California, is kept expressly for the pleasure 
 and cotnfort of the ladies and gentlet?ien of San Francisco, many 
 of whom have given this Hotel the preference, and a few of whose 
 names the Proprietor of the Lincoln Hotel refers to, by their 
 permission. — Hon. Sam'l. B. Axtell, M.C., Hon. H. L. Dodge 
 and wife, Judge O. L. Shafter and wife, Mrs. Alpheus Bull and 
 family, Maj. J. T. Hoyt and family, jNIr. J. J. Marks (Harbor 
 Commissioner) and family, Mrs. Harding and family, Mr. F. S. 
 Spring and family, Mr. J, J. Herr (Board of Brokers) and wife, 
 Air. L. L. Baker (firm of Baker and Hamilton) and wife, Mr. A. 
 G. Stiles and family, Hon. Ira. P. Rankin and wife, Capt. vS. 
 Doane (Steamer China) and wife, Mr. W. C. Talbot (of Pope & 
 Talbot) and wife, Mr. Henry Pierce (Board of Brokers), Mr. J. 
 C. Olmstead (of Olmstead &Cone), Mr. Fisher (of Fisher& Co., 
 Hatters) and family, Hon. ElishaCook ( Attorney), T.W. McLellan 
 and wife, (of San Jose), Dr. Chas. Bertody and Mr. Francis 
 Avery. 
 
 The Hotel is centrally located, two miles from the famous 
 PEBBLY BEACH. 
 
 The house is neatly furnished with new furniture throughout. 
 Parlor with a ■McCammon Piano, Reading, Sitting and Sleeping 
 Rooms. 
 
 FREE BATHS AND RIDES TO THE PEBBLE BEACH. 
 
 In short, PESCADERO IS THE FAVORITE SUMMER 
 RESORT, and LINCOLN HOTEL, under the charge of CAPT. 
 KINSEY, aftbrds the best accommodations for pleasure seekers. 
 
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. Ixxix 
 
 JOS. FIGEL, 
 Clothier, Merchant Tailor 
 
 AND DEALER EV 
 
 Men's and Boys' Clothing, 
 
 FURNISHING GOODS, TRUNKS, &C. 
 
 211 MONTGOMERY STREET, 
 
 J^uss Block, opjiosite Platfs Hall, 
 
 Would respectfully invite the attention of the Public to his 
 
 superior Stock of Goods, feeling confident that he can 
 
 suit, both in regard to Price and Quality. 
 
 A FEATURE 
 
 In his business is the particular attention paid to the manufacture 
 of Men's and Boys' Clothing, College and Military Uniforms of 
 every description to Order, from a large assortment of Cloths, 
 Cassimeres, Beavers, Scotch Tweed, etc. 
 
 Elegance of Style and Perfection of Fit are in all cases 
 guaranteed. 
 
 A visit to my Establishment will convince you of my ability 
 to please in every respect. 
 
 JOS. FIGEL, 
 
 No. 2 1 1 ^Montgomery Street, San Francisco, California. 
 
Woodward's Gardens, Mission St,, bet. 13th and 14th, San Francisco, C; 
 
 ^'11 
 
 
 iil; ). 
 
 (^ 
 
 .^;.^^^ 
 
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 'Mi 
 
 
 THE CET\TRAL TARK OF THE PACIFIC. 
 
 (Sue page UO.) 
 
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