Class ' Book - 37 Copyright^ . COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/gardenbeautifuliOObrau THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL IN CALIFORNIA A PRACTICAL MANUAL FOR ALL WHO GARDEN BY ERNEST BRAUNTON \\ LANDSCAPE DESIGNER AND HORTICULTURIST CULTIVATOR PUBLISHING CO. LOS ANGELES, CAL. 1915 ye>ta6/e'<5- Wa//c AN IDEAL PLAN WITH DRIVE 16 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL part of the garden stands for one thing, and one only, and there are no duplications in plan or plant- ing. There- fore, every step forward marks an ad- vance into something new, and from one end to the other "no scene is twice seen," nor anything either in ma- terial or ef- fect met with a second time. It would nei- ther be prop- er, nor pleas- ing, to find roses and carnations, or pines and acacias scat- tered thr'gh- out the gar- den, for all parts would then contain similar ef- ■fpp-J-a o y\ fl THIS ILLUSTRATION SHOWS HOW A CITY p l, QV5 ,«4- on lot mat be laid out to conform cnaracter. WITH ALL THE RULES OF LAND- TV»ptv> wrmlrl SCAPE GARDENING inere WOU1Q IN CALIFORNIA 17 be no incentive or stimulus for a walk about a gar- den where one glance at any part would suffice to show the plants and their disposition obtaining in all parts. Some of the finest examples of beauty in arrangement may be observed in the shrubbery masses on shaded hillsides in the wilds. AVOID STRAIGHT LINES Nature makes no straight lines; for whether it be the canopy above, the horizon about us, the shore of ocean or lake, the course of streams, the lines of a horse, bird, or other animal, beautiful curves, in variety, everywhere abound. Without some specific guide, such as a taut cord or a straight-edge, man cannot make a straight line. It must then be appar- ent that nature never expected he should try. Those who have trampled over freshly fallen snow, though intent upon going in a straight line from one point to another, may easily descry, by looking back- ward upon their course, the most beautiful and smoothly-flowing curves traced upon earth's other- wise spotless mantle. Even the paths of wild or domestic animals are of most artistic and gentle departure from the monotonous straight line. Nevertheless, we should not violate the dictates of common sense by instituting a curve or curves in a walk but a few paces long. Curves should not be made that would subject the maker to ridicule, yet they are, otherwise, always permissible, and advis- able, if it is possible to have them without showing a strained effect or too great abruptness. If it is found advisable or necessary to make a short or sharp curve, plant in the "bay" a large shrub or tree, or a group or object of a large and permanent nature, made to appear as though present before the path and therefore making the curve a necessity in 18 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL order to get around this previously occupied point. General Advice Assuming that the garden plat, or at least the part immediately about the residence, is fairly level, the surface should be so graded, if possible, that water will drain from the house toward all points of the compass. The soil for this purpose may usually be taken from near the outer boundaries, or, better still, from an excavation for a pond, something without which no large orderly garden is complete. If you have plenty of soil the lawns may be filled up in and about the center to give a rounded appearance, for natural lawns are seldom or never smooth and flat. The surface should also drain slightly toward the pond site so that the presence of water there will appear natural, being in a depression. In rebuilding a garden turn under a liberal supply of stable manure over the entire area. If any large trees or shrubs are in the way, leave them if it can be done without too great a sacrifice and make the subsequent or new planting conform so far as possible. Place the pond, if you are to have one, so it will not be shaded by buildings, trees or other large objects; for aquatic life, either animal or vegetable, does not succeed in shade. Planting at the waterside should be confined to the north side and northerly corners. At all other points keep large plants farther away to allow of unobstructed sunshine on the water throughout the day. The garden should be enclosed on sides and back with a wall, hedge, or vine-covered fence. Along the front it is more a matter of taste, though if the property belonged to the author the fence or hedge should inclose it on all sides ; low on front and sides to rear of house, and much higher around the back IN CALIFORNIA 19 yard. Better still would be a low wall along the front and sides, rising to a greater height opposite the rear corners of the residence. Aside from providing privacy, snugness, and se- clusion, such inclosure will keep out would-be in- truders, dogs, paper, leaves and other wind-blown rubbish, and catch and hold much of the dust which otherwise would reach the house. It also allows the garden to be finished right out to the edge, which it could not be were it not divided from surrounding property. If the lot is deep the back yard may be cut off by a hedge, but if this is done put it as far back as possible and as low as its purpose will allow, for a large yard is indicative of good taste, liberal ideas, generosity and good-fellowship. The landscape possibilities, too, are much greater, and the general effect more impressive, without division. Formal Gardens If a formal, Italian, Japanese or other style of garden is to be incorporated in the plan of a large landscape, it should be set off by a wall, hedge, or fence, so as not to be brought into contrast with the larger and more natural prospect or outlook. For- mal or architectural gardens should be built close to the dwelling so that all architectural effects are kept together. Utility Plats Utility areas should also be screened from the main prospect, for clotheslines, ash barrels, wood- piles, compost heaps and rubbish piles must not be in view of visitors to the pleasure garden. It is often possible to use pergolas to connect two separate or distinct parts of a garden and also have them as a shield to obscure undesirable features or acces- 20 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL sories, but never erect a pergola unless its purpose is apparent to even the casual observer. In no other way do Californians so often violate good taste in 9^ / ' y^^W^^' "'** A CLASSIC PERGOLA garden building as by the erection of purposeless pergolas. The Back Yard The back yard should be attractive, interesting, and far more homelike and comfortable than the front yard. The same rules of planning should IN CALIFORNIA 21 apply, but they need not be so closely observed. The back yard should be largely a "family affair." If there is insufficient room at the side of the house, to- ward the rear, for tennis court or croquet grounds, where these are desired, the back yard is the proper place for them. Here is the part upon which to lavish your homely affections. Have a place in which to swing a ham- mock and have at least one arbor or covered seat or a playhouse for the children, and if there is sufficient room, have them all, and more. Here arbors may be covered with grapes or other vines of economic value. The ornamental trees and shrubs may be of orange, loquat, avocado, guava, carissa and others bearing edible crops. The herbs may be artichoke, rhubarb and parsley. In the borders may be all sorts of vegetables in clumps and patches; still it may conform more or less to the first rule of land- scaping — preserve open centers. At the extreme rear should be the chief back- ground of the whole picture, a background of some solidarity, whether of fruit trees or a tangled mass of vines over a tall fence. If at the south end of the premises the taller shade trees may be used, planted for ornament, yet where their shade may contribute to the comfort of the household. It may be that a lawn is desirable even though it prove a bleaching ground for the family washing and is cen- tered by a revolving clothes dryer. If grass is thought to involve too much labor in caretaking or too much dampness through watering, here is a chance for lippia, which needs no summer watering, and the more it is trod upon the better it will qualify as a mere soil cover to protect all from either dust or mud, or both. If ash and garbage cans, compost 22 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL heaps, or hotbeds are necessary or advisable, screen them off from the general view by means of shrubs or vine-covered trellises, but do not give up making the back yard interesting and attractive for the rea- son that these things are present. Recognize utility, but do not banish order, comfort and all display of artistic effects. Utility Should Govern. So far as regards approaches and walks to and from buildings, the object of their introduction is sufficiently apparent; but, in laying out pleasure grounds, it is a too common practice to introduce walks for the mere purpose of variety. This is a very questionable reason at best, and not always successfully accomplished ; but even in cases of this kind, they should appear to aim for some definite object, or lead to points of sufficient importance to suggest their utility. The guiding principle in de- signing the position of roads and walks should be utility. Nature forms no roads. They are the works of men and animals, and would undoubtedly always proceed in nearly straight lines from point to point, if obstructions of various kinds did not interfere and cause deviations. Necessity will there- fore suggest where and how they should be intro- duced. 1. NATIVE STRAWBERRY LAWN, Fragaria Chiloensis 2. BACKYARD LAWN, Lippia canescens CHAPTER II LAWNS AND SOIL COVERS The work of making a fine greensward is the most particular piece of handicraft in the garden, for it is the actual foundation and will never present a smoother or more even surface than the day it is sown. Slight inequalities of surface will become more pronounced with time; soft spots will settle, while hard places will always remain the highest. Lawn surfaces should therefore be made as smooth and even as possible; mistakes can be remedied only by taking up the sod and making the lawn over. In England they say it takes a hundred years to make a good lawn, and one eastern coast writer says: "Four things are required to make a good lawn; time, soil, climate and intelligent labor." Neither expression fits California, for we do not need time, as it is understood east of the Rockies. The greensward is the one permanent feature of a yard; therefore, let us have the very best obtain- able. Our flower beds may be moved or the plants in other parts of the garden changed every year, but we expect the lawn to remain ever the same. One of the first essentials for a lawn is good soil. Many complain that they have black adobe and "it is so hard to do anything with," but it is the best medium in which to grow a fine lawn, even as sand is the poorest. In enriching the soil it is well to understand that it cannot be made too rich for blue grass. After one gets the surface in proper condi- 24 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL tion, the sowing and after care cannot be too care- fully attended to; it is a job worthy of a first-class lawnmaker, and no one who can afford to hire help should attempt his own lawnmaking. Making the Lawn Close observation for a score of years has con- vinced the writer that for California in general soil prepared in March and sown early in April will result in giving us the best of lawns, varying the time according to season and prevailing tempera- tures in your section. Autumn lawnmaking is usual- ly attended with an equal degree of success, but in cold sections the young grass is often caught "in the milk" stage by severe frosts and sometimes killed, though to offset such risk the season offers the welcome rains, for spring-sown lawns necessi- tate careful artificial sprinkling. The first work should be a deep and thorough stir- ring of the soil, without which no crop will grow, whether it be grass or trees. When stirring the soil mix in a liberal amount of well-rotted stable manure (four inches is not too much) and do not be content with merely turning it under where it will lie in chunks for years to come. The full value of fertilizers comes only from thorough incorpora- tion with the soil. Gardeners too often turn under raw bone meal and leave it, a handful in a place. Used in this way it does not all become available to plant life for several years. It should be evenly scattered and thoroughly mixed with the soil and even then it is largely fertilizing for future years. Stable manures, while more readily available to the plant at any stage, should undergo the same thorough incorporation, for after a lawn is once sown you cannot get under it to stir the soil except IN CALIFORNIA 25 at the added expense of a new lawn. Nearly all fertilizer works make a special fertilizer for this preliminary use, which has the advantage of contain- ing no seeds of weeds or Bermuda grass, which often prove before eradicated more expensive than all other work connected with the making of new lawns. Superphosphate. Thomas slag. * ninfn nl|iTntf _ dT^f""]/ L/\ iC ^M. >z /V^\r^^^ Barnyard manure and guano. Lime nitrogen (qal- cium cyanamld). \S^r=^V/ \? / V ■ THE AUSTRALIAN BUNYA-BUNYA Araucaria Bidwillii CHAPTER XII PESTS AND DISEASES Among the worst garden pests we have to deal with are the millipedes, or, as some call them, wire- worms. There seems to be no way of ridding the soil of these pests except by trapping, a very slow and unsatisfactory method. Lime and wood ashes bother them a little, but only a little, and anything strong enough to kill them will also kill the plants. They are especially fond of the bulbs of callas, lilies, gladioli, begonias and anemones, and the roots of stocks, snapdragons, pansies and many other plants. The easiest way to trap them is by laying pieces of boards on the ground, stepping on each piece to see that they are firm. Once a day these should be taken up and the millipedes underneath killed, after which replace the boards and repeat each day until no more are found. The Industrious Ant The most persistent garden pest for a great part of the year, and one that multiplies rapidly unless checked, is the industrious ant. One of our agricul- tural colleges states that greatest success in exter- mination of ants has come through use of an arsenic solution. For instant death of invading ants a one per cent solution with enough syrup to sweeten it is used. Prof. Woodworth of Berkeley states that he has found that a solution of between one-eighth and one- fourth per cent is best for the reason that it acts 154 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL more slowly and the adults carry it to the nests and feed it to the young, and the whole nest is thereby killed through slow poisoning. He recommends that a sponge saturated with the fluid be placed in a closed jar with a perforated cover so ants only may go and come. These jars may then be safely left about the garden or carried into kitchen or pantry. A solution of potassium cyanide at the rate of one ounce to a gallon of water, when poured into a small pit at the exit of a burrow, destroys ants to a depth of one and a half feet below the surface of the soil. This solution can be prepared at a cost of from one and one-half to two cents per gallon. It appears, however, to be injurious to plant life. A very effective, but more expensive method, and one that has been used with great success for a num- ber of years, is to pour one or more teaspoons of bisulphide of carbon into the opening of each nest, preferably while the soil is wet, closing the holes promptly afterward with the foot. This insecticide has the advantage of being more penetrating than the others mentioned; it is heavier than air and descends as a gas into all the subterranean tunnels of the ants, destroying them as well as all other liv- ing creatures which may be present. When liberally applied this chemical will destroy entire colonies of ants. A very good poison for ants in the greenhouse is a mixture of Paris green and sugar, adding just enough of the poison to white granulated sugar to turn it a light green color. This should be dusted lightly among the pots on and under the benches. Be careful not to put any in the pots or on a bench containing soil, as the Paris green is liable to damage the plants. IN CALIFORNIA 155 Ants and Plant Lice Plant lice are familiar objects to all. The general farmer and the casual observer of these creatures on cabbage and other vegetable crops simply recog- nizes them as lice, but to the florist they are better known under the names of green fly and aphis. An interesting fact in regard to them is that most com- mon species exude from two tubes near the ends of the abdominal segments a transparent fluid having a sweetish taste. It is frequently excreted in great quantity, and this is the secret of the attraction of ants to these creatures. The liquid is known as honey-dew, and it attracts, besides ants, wasps, bees, flies and some other insects. Plant Lice, Green Fly, or Aphis Fifty-eight persons competed for a prize offered at Frankfort, Germany, for the best method of de- stroying plant lice. The winner's preparation is as follows : Quassia wood, two and one-half pounds, to be soaked overnight in ten quarts of water and well boiled, then strained through a cloth and placed, with 100 quarts of water, in a petroleum barrel with five pounds of soft soap ; to be used as a spray. In wet or cool weather they are hard to extermi- nate, but during hot days the fumes of both sulphur and of tobacco dust will sufficiently keep the pests in check. Sprinkle both over the damp foliage, spar- ingly but evenly, in the morning of what promises to be a hot day. The sulphur fumes also destroy the fungus known as mildew. One way to get rid of plant lice is to use tobacco water made by pouring boiling water over tobacco stems, or by boiling the stems. After cooling pour off the liquid and add more water. This tobacco tea 156 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL should be used as soon after making as possible and is of little value if allowed to stand two or three days, for it will start to ferment and it then loses its strength. The most convenient form to use is the nicotine extract. A pint of the nicotine is extracted from 150 pounds of tobacco. It comes in pint bottles and is sold to nurserymen for about $1.50 a bottle. Use one tablespoon of the nicotine to five gallons of water. If you use the tea or nicotine it should be sprayed on the plants each morning for three days, and all the aphis will be exterminated. Worms in Flower Pots Wireworms or millipedes often bother pot plants, and occasionally other worms are present. The most effective way to drive out these pests is to use lime water. Dissolve lime in water, one pound of lime to about ten gallons of water, though it does not matter how much you use, as only a certain amount will be held in solution. Allow it to settle until water is clear and then water the plants with it. Bottles of this, tightly corked, may be kept on hand, though worms in potting soil are not a very common trouble. The settled lime should be put in the garden as it will benefit both soil and plants. Cutworms, Sow Bugs, Etc. Thoroughly mix one peck, eight quarts or two gal- lons, of wheat bran with one tablespoon of Paris green, then add a quart of strong molasses. Rub all the ingredients together thoroughly until the mass becomes of the same consistency throughout and crumbles easily. Scatter lightly among the plants where the cutworms are feeding, and you will have no further trouble there. This poison also destrops IN CALIFORNIA 157 snails, sow bugs, etc. ; it never fails and is the sim- plest treatment for this class of pests. One competent authority states that the following formula for a poisoned bran is the most effective he has used : Take of bran eight pounds, Paris green four ounces, common salt two ounces, syrup or mo- lasses one pint. Add sufficient water to make a crumbly or dryish mash. Avoid placing it where chickens or domestic animals will be poisoned. It may be thinly scattered among garden plants that are attacked. Probably the most economically applied spray consists of Paris green mixed in the following pro- portions : Paris green, pure, or to contain at least fifty per cent arsenious acid, two ounces; fresh lime, one pound ; water, 25 gallons. Use no ammonia or soap. Make the Paris green into a paste before placing it in a spray tank and keep constantly stirred while spraying. To make the Paris green more insoluble, and thereby prevent injury to the leaves, dissolve six pounds of fresh lime in water and when the lime has settled add the water to the solution and keep it constantly stirred. Scale Insects, Red Spider, etc. One pound of Gold Dust dissolved in five gallons of water works wonders in cleaning trees and plants of insect life and the smut resultant from their excre- tions. This formula is only for such things as have hard foliage, like citrus trees. A gallon or two more water added to every pound of "dust' will permit its use on soft plants. Kerosene emulsion is also good where an insecti- cide is needed. Dissolve one pound of soft soap in 158 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL a gallon of boiling water, keeping it well agitated with a syringe or pump until the soap is quite melted. Then while still boiling, or nearly so, add one pint of kerosene and continue to agitate the mixture for about five minutes, which will thoroughly mix the soap and oil. Dilute with another two gallons of water and it is ready for use. The mixture may be still weaker and used frequently if preferred. It should always be carefully sprayed, using a very fine nozzle, and applied particularly to the under sides of the leaves. Rats/ Rats/ One wholesale florist says : "Take slaked lime and alum and put the mixture under or on benches, around poultry yards or greenhouses, and you will get rid of all rats. I had them so bad that they de- stroyed my geraniums and carnations. The rat is very fond of water, and when it goes along on this preparation it gets its claws full, rubs its nose, then runs for water ; and as soon as it gets water the ani- mal is destroyed. "For ants and slugs the mixture named cannot be beaten by anything on the market. I have nine greenhouses and have not a slug or an ant in the place." Oak Caterpillars The oak trees in some counties of the state are defoliated by the caterpillar of the oak moth, Phry- ganidia Californica, and people who value these beautiful landmarks are much concerned about it. Frequently whole districts are to be seen in which every tree is stripped of its leaves. The remedy against the worm, and one that should be frequently applied, is a Paris green spray, one pound to 200 gal- IN CALIFORNIA 159 Ions of water. If this is freely used the worms will soon disappear. Gophers and Squirrels Some prefer to use bisulphide of carbon to kill gophers and squirrels. It must be used when the ground is damp, or the fumes will not be confined enough to destroy the rodents. After turning about a gill of the liquid in the hole quickly cover with soil and press down to confine the poisonous vapors. Poison, a good cat or trap, will prove equally effect- ive in killing the gophers. A good formula for poisoning squirrels is: One ounce strychnine, one ounce cyanide of potassium, one-half gallon molasses, and enough wheat to take up the liquid. It takes about fifty pounds. Enough water is added to moisten it. It is of little use to put out poison when grass and weeds are near by; an- other reason for cleaning the roadways of disfiguring weeds. The strychnine should be dissolved in vine- gar, and the cyanide in warm water, before they are mixed with the molasses and the wheat. Mildew on Roses, Etc. Mildew is a fungus plant which is parasitic on the rose and other plants and appears as a gray, pow- dery substance on the young growth, attacking both foliage and stem. It can be checked by the use of sul- phur as it is used to stop mildew on grape vines. Be sure you treat your plants generously with manure and water to keep them in good health. On the first appearance of the disease it is advis- able to dust the foliage with sulphur. This is best done in the evening when there is no wind to blow it off, or in early morning after spraying with water. At this stage some spray with a light solution of sul- 160 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL phide of potassium, but if a spray is found necessary- it will be better to use the Bordeaux mixture, which for our purpose should be made as follows : Copper sulphate, five pounds ; lime, five pounds ; water, forty gallons. A very weak solution of soft soap used as a spray is also beneficial. We give below the two latest approved sprays, the first recipe comes from England and is vouched for by William Payne, F. L. S., Honorable Secretary of the National Rose Society, and a famous rosarian; the second from a skillful rose grower of the United States. Both are good. "Boil two pounds of soft soap in two gallons of water; while still boiling and immediately after it has been removed from the fire add half a pint of paraffme oil and a quarter pound of sulphur. When using add half a pint of this solution to a gallon of water, soft water is best, and apply as a spray." "Shave up a bar of ivory soap, or any kind which contains no free alkali, and dissolve in a pail of boil- ing water. When dissolved, dilute with five pails of cold water. This does not need washing off again as the thin coating is a preventive as well as a cura- tive. It will also kill all kinds of aphids, or green fly, as well as red spider on violets." CHILEAN WINE OR HONEY PALM Jubeae spectabilis CHAPTER XIII THE GARDEN CALENDAR January The planting season for all but tender growths is at hand and new gardening operations should be under full sway. Do not send east of the Rocky Mountains for either seeds or plants. None are so well adapted to local conditions as home-grown stock, and our seeds are famous the world over. Conditions are so entirely different with us that vegetation cul- tivated under other methods and environment is not so well suited to our gardens as that grown here. There is also another good business reason for patronizing local dealers ; they are get-at-able in case you receive unsatisfactory stock. GENERAL WORK Now is the time to attend to manuring and spad- ing vacant beds and borders. After spading leave the ground in a rough state; don't rake it down, as the sun and air will do more good and it will leave the ground in a more friable condition than if raked smooth. Don't be afraid to enrich abundantly as the ground will be in better condition for spring planting. Get rid of all rubbish, dead weeds, etc., so that when the spring crop of garden pests hatches it will find less shelter. Such a cleaning up removes many insects in a dormant state, or their eggs, and very often both insects and eggs. This garden rub- bish should always be burned or deeply composted. 162 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL When taken from a garden full of pests it should be carried, not dragged, over the ground, thereby avoid- ing scattering insects and diseases. SEED SOWING Do not fail to plant a few native wild flowers. Our California seeds, plants, and bulbs are in heavy de- mand the world over, more so in every European country than is the case here at home. We have a long list of beauties that thrive splendidly in the gar- den and range through all shades and colors in the flowers. For summer and fall flowers an early sowing of antirrhinum, arctotis, aster, calliopsis, celosia, cen- taurea, chrysanthemum, dianthus, Phlox Drum- mondi, summer flowering stocks, salvia, etc., may be made now. The seedsman can give you an idea of what will be the better seeds to sow for seasons vary according to amount, time of rainfall, etc., and no hard and fast rule may be laid down. The more tender annuals would be risky at present if you have no greenhouse or protection for them. Hardy varieties may be sown at any time. No better time could be found than January for the sowing of sweet peas for spring blossoms. The plants like to grow in the cool earth, and if sown now the vines will be shading the roots before the soil gets overheated. It matters little how warm the atmosphere is if the soil below is cool and moist, and this it must be if success comes. The modern sweet pea is a wonderful improvement over the old types and may be obtained in nearly every shade from white to black. Of late the orchid-flowered Spencer strain is much in demand and far more beautiful than the plain, unruffled flowers. IN CALIFORNIA 163 DIVIDING ROOTS AND TUBERS If you are going to propagate a stock of chrysan- themums for the present year, either by dividing them to single shoots or by rooting the tips in sand, you should find proper material on the old clumps; water and cultivate so that you may get cuttings in thirty or forty days. A box of clean, sharp sand in a shaded position will give you good results if not neg- lected. Where large beds and borders of canna, cyperus, papyrus and elephant ear have not been disturbed for three or more years, it will be found advisable to dig up the cannas and caladiums and store them away until March or April, and the large clumps of papyrus and cyperus can be divided and replanted in the border when it is spaded up, or divided in spring. These can stand any amount of fertilizer. Dig up the beds as deeply as possible and turn under several inches of well-rotted manure ; leave the beds rough, and later in planting time they will be in a good friable condition to replant. BULBS Gladiolus may be planted now, using rich ground, and plant them at intervals of two or three weeks for the next four months, to get a succession of blooms throughout the summer. Also plant calla, dahlia and Easter lily. Those who have not planted bulbs of anemone, hyacinth, ixia, lily, narcissus, ranunculus, spar axis and tulip should put them in the ground at once, if any of these flowers are desired. If a handful of sharp sand is placed in the hole for each bulb to set on, it will insure success in many cases where failure would otherwise result. Soak bulbs of anemone and ranunculus a couple of hours before planting. 164 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL TREES, SHRUBS AND HERBS Roses are dormant and if planted now will at once start into growth and produce a bountiful crop of blooms early in the season. This is a golden time for the planting of all de- ciduous trees and shrubs, also hardy evergreens ; but citrus trees and the more tender sorts, both fruiting and ornamental, are better left until February or March. The latter class will start only when the soil gets warm in spring from the increasing heat of the sun ; in the meantime they remain dormant. Roses may be pruned and manure spaded in about them any time during the month ; in March they will begin to sprout for the spring crop of blooms. Do not prune such climbers at the present time as Cherokee, Banksia, Beauty of Glazenwood, Gold of Ophir, etc., as their bloom is produced all along the branches. The best time to prune these is after their spring crop of flowers ; then they will have time dur- ing summer to grow long branches for next season's flowers. Pansy plants are ready to plant out, and care should be taken in preparing the ground. Many people complain they bought the best seeds or the finest plants, and they are no better, in flowers, than common ones. The cause of such failures is poor soil or lack of preparation. To prepare the ground for pansies: Choose your location, which should be sunny at least two-thirds of the day ; manure it well ; get some charcoal, pulverize it and spade it in with the manure. After spading sow some soot on top of the ground and rake it in thoroughly. The char- coal and soot are to sweeten the soil, the soot also keeps away snails and other injurious insects; together they give a rich dark color to the plants and IN CALIFORNIA 165 also serve to bring out richness of color in the flowers. Other seasonable flowering plants which may be planted now, include the antirrhinum, calendula, carnation, delphinium, dianthus, hollyhock, pansy, pelargonium or Lady Washington geranium (if you have a hot south front where other plants burn up during summer try a few), pentstemon, phlox, stock, Shasta daisy, verbena (all colors make a splendid display in April if planted now) , and wall- flower. A TIMELY WARNING Do not be in a hurry to fertilize your lawn; the present cold weather is good for the grass, it gives it a resting period. The disadvantage of fertilizing too early is that it will force a new growth at the time we are getting our coldest weather, and the conse- quence is the tender young grass gets nipped by the frost when "in the milk." When it should look nice in the early spring it stops growing and looks brown. It is forced from its natural resting time, the tender growth is frozen, and it takes its rest toward spring when the fertilizer has exhausted its forcing quali- ties or has been washed away. Grass should rest during the coldest weather. February and March or even April will be found the best months to manure the lawns, and from that time there will be a luxu- riant growth until the cold weather of autumn comes again. February The present should be the season of greatest activ- ity in gardening. Bear in mind spring is fully on us and perfection of bloom next summer demands early attention to the garden this month. Plants of all kinds are pushing forth new growths, swelling buds 166 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL on deciduous trees denote the rising sap, all nature feels the pulse of spring. GENERAL WORK Nearly all plants should be pruned and fertilized at this time, soil stirred, rubbish cleared away and plants and seeds put in the ground. A month or so later the value of such work is much less than if done at present. The only plants which should not be set out until later are those of a strictly tropical nature, most of which are foliage plants like cyperus, canna, elephant's ear, etc. Another tropical root or bulb which should wait for a month is the dahlia. Fer- tilize all growing plants, but not dormant ones. After a rain time should elapse sufficient to dry the soil into a workable condition, for soil worked when unfit becomes still more unfit for planting. In the meantime, if soaking rain has not come, put your soil in a condition to receive all that falls. There is always considerable doubt as to our rainfall, in time and quantity, but it is far better for plant life than the water pipe supply, so that we should aim faoth to catch and to hold it. For this purpose leave your soil in the rough, well spaded up, until you need to use it. After each rain, for fear no more will come, hoe and rake the surface as deeply as you may easily go, to conserve what has already fallen. SEED SOWING Begonias of the tuberous rooted section may be grown from the seeds indoors, and it is also time to plant seeds of torrenias which are of a like delicate nature and suitable for the same positions, whole or partial shade. Sow seeds for fall and summer flowers: Antir- rhinum, aster, calliopsis, celosia, chrysanthemum, IN CALIFORNIA 167 salvia, stock, sweet pea, sweet William ; your seeds- man will tell you of the kinds that are timely. Hardy annuals may of course be sown at any time. CUTTINGS AND DIVISIONS Carnation cuttings may be rooted in precisely the same manner prescribed in another chapter for chrysanthemums. Hardwood cuttings of deciduous shrubs such as crepe myrtle, deutzia, hydrangea, lemon verbena, lilac and weigelia should now be made and put in sand or soil. With the first warm weather after a heavy rain it will do to divide herbaceous perennials like golden- rod, golden glow, Shasta daisy, and even chrysan- themum. The latter are best if propagated each season by rooting tips in a box of sand. It is rather early, although the first of March should see them started. By planting the cuttings in sand, keeping moist but not too wet, you can easily perpetuate a stock of your favorite 'mums. BULBS Finish planting lily, anemone and ranunculus. Plant agapanthus, amaryllis, canna, calla, caladium, elephant's ear, dahlia, iris, gladiolus, tuberose and all that class of bulbs, corms and roots. Do not plant all gladioli at once, though earlier plantings give the better flowers. Tuberous begonias may be started in pots during this month and planted out in April. A soil of one- third each of sand, leaf mold, and good garden loam is ideal for this or any other class of begonias, and this should always be the composition for pot cul- ture. Remember in placing the dormant bulb on soil that the hollow side should be up. Set pots away in cool shady spot until tops show through soil, and 168 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL then gradually inure to sun. Every year marks an improvement in this class of begonia, and no garden is complete without them. They range from white to deep orange and crimson, both single and double, also plain and fringed. GENERAL PLANTING During February you may plant bare root, dor- mant roses if a good rain has fallen. It is also timely to prune and fertilize those now in the garden. De- ciduous trees and shrubs should be planted at once, and all hardy seeds and plants should be rushed into the soil for growing weather is with us and only those plants that get a good start in spring come to greatest perfection. Carnation, petunia, pansy, stock, verbena, and salvia can be transplanted from seed boxes to the open beds. February is a good month for planting golden glow, or summer chrysanthemum (a rudbeckia) . Few of the seedsmen or nurserymen handling orna- mentals catalogue it, and few people seem to know it, though it is by no means a novelty. It is a large, showy plant attaining in good soil a height of six or eight feet the same season planted; flowers three and one-half inches in diameter, double, well formed, deep golden color, and borne on long stems which render them suitable for cutting. They are magnifi- cent for indoor decoration. Plants bloom profusely from June to October. TRANSPLANTING EVERGREENS The best time to transplant an evergreen is when the growth is about to start. This is usually in the spring when moisture and heat are adequate to stim- ulate new growth. The best season is from February to May, according to the region in which you are IN CALIFORNIA 169 working. Heat is then sufficient and not excessive, and moisture is usually plentiful. Everything feels like growing under these conditions and the tree quickly establishes itself. The deciduous tree can safely be transplanted dur- ing the whole of its dormant period unless the ground is cold and water soaked; the evergreen does best near the close of its period of dormancy. The tree does not need manure in the hole ; if you wish to push it, use manure on top when you are sure that it has reestablished itself. All evergreens should be taken up with a ball of dirt if possible. It is a great deal better to get a part of the roots in natural position and condition than to get all the roots with their natural connections with the soil destroyed. LAWN WORK February is usually a good month for lawn fertil- ization, though in a backward season March is pre- ferable. The lawn may be covered with well rotted manure. Wet down well to wash manure into soil as much as possible. Rake over every day or two so the grass roots will not be smothered and killed out. After a week or two of this treatment, lightly rake off the manure which may remain on top. See that natural fertilizers, if used, are well rotted for they may be full of unsprouted seeds of Bermuda grass, dandelion and other pernicious weeds and bring to your lawn more harm than good. A safer plan, unless absolutely sure of your material, is to buy a commercial lawn fertilizer, of which there are numerous good brands in the market. Bone meal is fine for a lawn. True up the edges and seed with blue grass or clover where the soil is bare or where weeds have choked out the grass. If Bermuda grass is crowding into the lawn sow a lib- 170 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL eral supply of white clover as advised in the chapter on lawns. March The month of March should be a very active one so far as general garden work is concerned, and planting, pruning and propagation should be the active program, followed by irrigation, cultivation and fertilization. GENERAL WORK Ground should be spaded up and aired for two or three weeks for the tropical perennials. After thor- ough exposure for a time scatter some well rotted manure over the surface, roughly break up the lumps and smooth it somewhat and respade to mix the fer- tilizer thoroughly into the soil. Not until April will the ground be warm enough to induce a quick, vigor- ous growth of these plants. Don't continually stir the soil around shallow rooted plants. Get some well rotted manure and mulch the surface of your beds, being careful not to cover the crown of the plants. You will lighten your work and get infinitely better results. A mulch keeps the soil cool and moist; it checks evaporation and prevents the soil from cracking and drying out. It eliminates a lot of useless labor and will insure you a fine crop of perfect blooms. SEED SOWING In the sowing of all seeds mentioned care must be exercised to keep them constantly moist and to sow them in a rather light compost; this is particularly applicable to asters, which if allowed to become dry at any time during the germinating period will sure- ly perish. IN CALIFORNIA 171 Be careful not to cover seeds too deeply; one- eighth of an inch is sufficient for asters, and in the case of very small seeds not to exceed one-sixteenth of an inch. Sweet peas planted now will not flower before the weather is too warm to allow a normal development. Small, puny flowers will result. March is the ideal month for the sowing of a host of summer annuals. In a month or two beds which you devoted to bulbs for winter and spring bloom- ing will be empty, so make preparations for succes- sional plantings. A few of the more important an- nuals for summer are : Antirrhinum, aster, balsam, celosia, cockscomb, calliopsis, centaurea, cosmos, dianthus, larkspur, African and French marigolds, nasturtium, Phlox Drummondi, salpiglossis, scabio- sa, zinnia, etc. The foregoing are but a few lead- ers. There are dozens of others. PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS Bottom heat either in greenhouse or in a hotbed made with stable manure will prove a great aid, in all cases bringing a much greater proportion of the cuttings to root. However, bottom heat is not needed, though better results can be obtained with such a convenience. The average garden owner would better rely on the nurseryman for needed plants. For those who wish to experiment the fol- lowing is recommended. Make all cuttings with a sharp knife, occasionally wiped clean, cutting through at an angle of about 45 degrees, just below a bud or eye. Insert these cut- tings in a box of clean, sharp sand in rows. Do not force them down but use a lath or other straight edge by laying on sand and making a cut in the wet sand with a piece of shingle, old table knife or simi- lar utensil, and after insertion of cuttings press the 172 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL sand back against them and water well. After this keep damp, not wet, yet never allow to dry, and see that drainage is good by first boring a few small holes through bottom of box. All bedding plants may now be propagated, such as ageratum, alternanthera, begonia, carnation, coleus, fuchsia, heliotrope, iresine, marguerite, salvia and santolina. Select young brittle tips. Propagate violets from cuttings so that you may have flowering plants for next winter. While some prefer the earlier winter months for the propagation of roses from hardwood cuttings, there are many gardeners who have splendid success with March cuttings. All deciduous shrubs and trees that have not yet started into leaf or bloom, such as crepe myrtle, deutzia, hydrangea, lilac and weigelia, will grow very readily from cuttings during this month, and any of these sorts to be moved or planted should be handled at once. The cuttings should be made long enough to have three or more eyes and be set firmly and deeply in a sand box or the ground, leaving one or two eyes above the surface. A par- tially shaded position is best. PROPAGATION BY DIVISION All perennials may now be divided and replanted except the strictly tropical plants, and these had best be left for a while: Delphinium, or larkspur; solidago, or goldenrod ; helianthus, sunflower, peren- nial ; pentstemon ; phlox ; rudbeckia, or golden glow, and Shasta daisy are just right for division, and nearly all are much improved by the process being repeated each year. Old roots of chrysanthemum should be cultivated and watered imediately to provide young and tender shoots for slips or cuttings to be taken during April IN CALIFORNIA 173 or May. If you cannot propagate them from the cuttings, divide the clumps into the smallest rooted pieces you can. Florists and gardeners start all 'mums from cut- tings each year, throwing the old clumps away as soon as cuttings are rooted. Clumps of all the oth- ers noted may be divided and planted according to the taste of the planter. The latter end of the month is early enough to plant your broken up clumps of canna, caladium or elephant's ear, cyperus, dahlia, ginger, etc. BULBS Plant out summer flowering bulbs, especially more gladiolus, reserving a few for later planting, though the early plantings usually give best results. Trito- nia, or montbretia, closely allied to the gladiolus, may be had in a variety of shades from yellow to red ; try a few of the better sorts ; they need no care but being kept free from weeds. Calla, canna, dahlia, tube- rose, and tigridia are also in order for planting. Amaryllis which have been left in the ground should have the surrounding soil loosened up and pulverized, and they should be given a good mulching with well rotted manure, preferably from the horse stable. Tuberous begonias, if started now, should be planted in pots and later placed in their permanent home. They should always be grown in the shade and have a rich, loose, well drained soil. If you in- tend planting the bulbs directly in the soil, hold for a month yet. Tritonias may be treated the same as gladiolus. If they have been left in the ground for years and are very thick, pull out three-fourths of them ; you will get more blooms and better ones than you could obtain by keeping all. 174 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL GENERAL PLANTING March is the month in which to look after plants for next winter's flowers. Especially is this true of carnation, chrysanthemum and violet. Carnations should not be grown longer than three years and should then be replaced by younger plants. Now is the time to plant aster, celosia, centaurea, calliopsis, salvia, Shasta daisy and verbena. If you have planted no pansy seeds, you had best buy plants now for it is rather too late to get the best results from seeds. If your plants are already grow- ing see that the surface soil is kept well stirred and pulverized. Pansies are gross feeders and the beds should be well mulched with manure. For spring flowers plant in sunny place, for summer flowering plant in a somewhat shady place. Now is the time to plant violets, either in young plants or cuttings, to get the best results, next fall and winter, in blooms. Violets like a rich, loose soil, with a top mulch of light manure during the heated term, and don't forget to give them a generous sup- ply of water at frequent intervals. Put your plants in several exposures, not all in the shade, so that you may be able to gather violets over a considerable period of time. PRUNING SHRUBS AND VINES Prune hydrangea now, as it flowers on the current season's growth. Also cut poinsettia back to three eyes of last season's growth. Do not prune deutzia, spirea, syringa, and weigelia at this time. If you do you will lose most of your blooming wood. They should be pruned immediately after they are through blooming. Bignonia and bougainvillea should be pruned now. On bignonia leave as many of the stronger growths IN CALIFORNIA 175 as are needed to cover the object on which it is to grow, and cut out all other main shoots back to the root. All laterals on the shoots left should be cut back to two or three eyes, not more. Cut out all the coarse suckers that came from the roots of the bou- gainvillea last year, for they will produce but few flowers, and thin out the vine to suit yourself, though the main stems should not be trimmed clean at the bottom. These vines look best when well furnished with foliage to the ground. No danger will result from heavy pruning ; it is needed. PRUNE AND FEED ROSES Be careful not to trim spring and early summer blooming climbers now or you will get few flowers. These roses: Banksias, Beauty of Glazenwood, Cherokees, Gold of Ophir, etc., should be given only such pruning as is necessary to keep them within proper bounds immediately after their annual crop of flowers. After this period they bend all their en- ergies toward making flower bearing wood for next year. This in itself is enough to suggest the proper pruning season. During this month roses push out their new growths. New canes will break from the eyes both above and below the surface of the soil. Assist this growth in every manner possible. Give the beds a good forking over, dress the surface with a liberal coat of air slacked lime to sweeten it, following some time later with a heavy mulch of any good fibrous manure. Subsequent rains or waterings will leach the plant food from this dressing and give a sur- passing vigor to the new growths. In proportion as you treat roses now will they repay you in bloom production during April, May and June. 176 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL LAWN WORK There is no better time than the present for lawn work of all kinds, whether it be the planting of new ones or the renovation, rolling or fertilization of old ones. From now until the cold weather of next win- ter comes the grass will make a steady luxurious growth, receiving no check, such as is often noticed on lawns which were fertilized too early. Be sure to fertilize your lawn this month for the increasing power of the sun will soon start it into vigorous growth. A commercial fertilizer is much to be preferred to stable manure full of weed seeds. Also seed the places now bare or where weeds are so thick that no grass remains after their removal. April The warm sunshine is peculiarly severe on plants at this season when the growth is young and tender, and the need for water to keep up this new growth is great. A light sprinkling each morning before the sun shines too fiercely (better still before sun- rise) is an excellent invigorator, but will not take the place of the necessary copious irrigation at the roots that the plants should have about twice each week. This prescription is for herbaceous plants; once each week is enough for shrubs of normal growth. GENERAL WORK This is a busy month in the garden; there is all kinds of work to keep one busy. It is the last month in which spring planting should be done. Now the ground is warm enough to induce a quick, vigorous growth, and all plants will give satisfaction. When watering, do it thoroughly ; sprinkling the top of the ground does little good. Get all spraying for plant IN CALIFORNIA 177 pests and diseases done before it gets too hot. Watch rose bushes for green aphis and if troubled use to- bacco dust freely. In this warm weather pansy roots must be kept cool and moist or the blossoming will be checked; loosen the soil about the plants without disturbing the roots, and then give a good mulch of fine stable manure. Perform the same office for the amaryllis and hippeastrum bulbs, but stir the soil more deeply. Thin out plants sown from seeds, if in their proper place, or transplant at once. Do not try to save sickly ones; they never recuperate satisfactorily. SEED SOWING Sow in seed boxes perennials like campanula, col- umbine, foxglove, daisy, hollyhock, larkspur, pent- stemon, gaillardia, coreopsis, also snapdragon. Sow in the garden all annuals, especially agera- tum, balsam, centaurea, cockscomb, marigold, cos- mos, nasturtium, phlox, poppy, portulaca, scabiosa, salpiglossis, zinnia; also vines such as Australian pea vine, morning glory, cypress vine. DIVISION OF PERENNIALS If you have not yet divided clumps of goldenrod, golden glow, or rudbeckia, etc., by all means do so at once before the new growth gets too large. All per- ennials should be divided or replanted as quickly as possible, for the best growing weather is now with us. During the present month all canna, caladium, cyclamen, banana and dahlia plants still out of the soil should be placed in the garden, and as they are what is known as tropical bedders, they will be most effective if massed, with the tallest at the back; 178 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL planted in "bank" effect. Water often and most thoroughly. BULBS Spring bulb flowers will be nearly past now ; gar- deners who have been very successful still plant: amaryllis, canna, dahlia, gladiolus and tuberose. If you wish good tuberous begonias in the open ground, plant them now, having a good, rich soil, as near to that recommended for pot culture as is pos- sible to obtain. In addition to the ordinary single and double strains, there are superb varieties that should be grown in every garden. These are a great improvement on those ordinarily seen in California gardens. A good compost for potting these begonias con- sists of one-third garden loam, one-third leaf mold, and the remaining one-third of equal parts of sharp sand and well rotted manure. Be sure to place the tubers with the hollow sides upward, as all the plant growth starts from within this hollow. If in pots, put them in a shady place until growth shows through the soil, when they may be moved into the light and gradually exposed to the forenoon's sun. The advantage of starting them in pots is that you may use the ground intended for them for spring blooming plants and bulbs whose season will be past by the time your begonias demand planting out. HERBACEOUS PLANTS It is not too late to put out bedding plants such as salvia, marigold, alternanthera, etc., and they do as well as those planted in early spring. This is a good time to bed out for permanent ef- fect, the very best for geraniums and herbaceous plants of their class. Set out : Aster, antirrhinum, centaurea, calliopsis, chrysanthemum and celosia. IN CALIFORNIA 179 CARE OF LAWNS Lawns will need to be watered often as lawn grass does not root over two or three inches deep, but water thoroughly and induce deep rooting. Some may not have fertilized their lawns as yet, though the time is ripe. Try some commercial fer- tilizer this spring and note the season's growth of grass; these balanced mixtures should prove much superior to weed-bearing stable manures. From now until winter the grass should make a steady, luxu- rious growth, receiving no check. May During the summer it is not best to water many plants during the heat of the day. Water in the evening so that the plants may absorb the moisture during the night and they will be the better able to stand the evaporation occurring during the day; or do the sprinkling very early in the morning. Throughout the summer the air is generally hot and dry and dissipates much of the moisture in- tended for plants to consume; consequently it is during the prevalence of hot weather and rapid growth that plants require food in soluble form. Liquid fertilizers are readily absorbed by the feed- ing roots and at once assimilated by the tissues of plants. The excess of moisture lost through evapo- ration is compensated for by the plant food con- tained in the part that is absorbed. In the case of house and porch plants, small, neat beds against the house, etc., it is often impracticable to use stable manure, especially if none but the coarser kinds are obtainable, but every one, espe- cially in the suburbs or country, may keep a supply of liquid manure. Fill a common grain sack with 180 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL any kind of manure, though the older the better. Put it in a barrel and fill with water. After stand- ing 24 hours it is ready for use. The barrel can be refilled with water several times without replenish- ishing the supply of manure, but with each filling the water must be allowed to stand a longer time hef ore using. SEED SOWING For later planting in the garden sow seeds of primula and calceolaria or set out plants of the same raised from former sowings. Seeds of many annuals and perennials may still be sown, though nearly all seed sowing should be completed this month. It is not too late to sow, either in boxes or in seed beds or permanent places, seeds of carnation, cos- mos, coreopsis, candytuft, centaurea, daisies, digi- talis, forget-me-not, gaillardia, marigold, nasturtium, phlox, petunia, poppies, salpiglossis and scabiosa. BULBS If they have been kept in a cool, dark place you may still procure and plant dormant bulbs of amaryl- lis, allium, begonia, canna, cyclamen, dahlia, freesia, gladiolus, iris, scilla, tigridia and tuberose. Hyacinths, narcissi and other Holland bulbs will now be ripening their tops. If the area they occupy is not to be used for other plants they may as well remain in present position, but if not they had bet- ter be taken up and stored till next season in a cool, dry, dark place. Place them in a box of damp sand and they will cure as the sand dries. If sand is not easily obtainable, well-pulverized soil will do, or take up each bulb with some of the surrounding soil still adhering to it and let it so remain for a few weeks, after which the bulbs may be taken out and kept cool and dry until planting season. IN CALIFORNIA 181 HERBACEOUS PLANTS Chrysanthemum plants should now be well estab- lished in pots and may be put in the garden at once. Also set out in the garden plants of antirrhinum, aster, balsam, centaurea, dianthus, marigold and zinnia. Young plants of carnation are now growing vigor- ously and are usually too slender. They should have the leaders cut or pinched off to induce stocky plants. If they are allowed their natural growth they will run up in tall, spindly flower stalks, bloom too early and produce flowers inferior to those of headed plants. June Little new work or planting should be done at this late period, and work during June will consist mainly in keeping the garden watered and taking care of it in a general way. Garden owners of limited experience are too apt to neglect their gardens during the early part of summer. Having planted, cultivated and watched the unfolding of leaf and blossom of spring growth,, they rest from their labors in the belief that the sea- son's gardening operations are practically over. Weeds grow under the stimulus of water and sun- shine just as luxuriantly now as in the springtime, and the ripening seeds of summer are just as potent and productive as those of early harvest days. The summer's sun is just now stronger and shines longer upon the garden than at any other time of the year ; the evaporation and drain upon the soil moisture are therefore correspondingly greater. Frequent and copious irrigations, followed by thor- ough cultivations, must be rigidly practiced, and the morning spraying, just before the heat of the sun 182 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL strikes the plants, should not be forgotten. Do not water and spray in the evening except for special plants, as it leaves both soil and air cold and damp throughout the night, and the following day with its dry heat brings too great a contrast 'twixt night and day; this is one of the chief causes of mildew on roses, sweet peas, etc., and other fungous diseases. In your garden operations aim to equalize condi- tions of night and day so far as possible. Spray and water in the morning and the plants will have cool, moist soil and atmosphere to help withstand the desiccating influence of our summer's sun and heat. Before nightfall air and plants have taken up the moisture, and both atmosphere and soil are dry and warm for the night. Aim to equalize the temper- ature throughout each twenty-four hours by making the night air warmer and the day air cooler. If a study is made of atmospheric and soil condi- tions we need not have so much of mildew or weak- ened plants. Only the sharp contrast in temper- ature between day and night prevents us from hav- ing perfect roses. Too many think that mildew and similar troubles are due to the winter's rains, but they are just as prevalent and destructive in the gar- den at present as during the rainy season. Then, too, England, a country of fog and drizzle, grows the finest roses in the world, and the "web-foot" Ore- gonians produce the finest on the Pacific Coast, so that mere rain supply would appear to be an ad- vantage rather than a detriment. SOWING AND PLANTING Sow stock for early winter flowers and start euca- lyptus and cypress from seed for winter planting. Seeds of many annuals and perennials may be planted if your gardening is late: Carnation, cos- IN CALIFORNIA 183 mos, coreopsis, candytuft, cineraria, centaurea, digi- talis, daisy, forget-me-not, gaillardia, marigold, phlox, petunia, poppy and salpiglossis. This is the last month in which the bulbs of canna, dahlia and gladiolus should be planted; also plant: Ageratum, balsam, carnation, cosmos, centaurea, coreopsis, celosia, daisy, hollyhock, snapdragon, vio- let and zinnia. Pelargonium can be started from cut- tings now and by next spring will produce strong, bushy plants. It is still time to start late flowering chrysanthemum. Cuttings can be put in from now till the middle of July, and they will produce good flowers. SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS Small greenhouses in which you are growing ferns, begonias and that class of plants should have a heavy shading on the glass, and the houses should be sprayed every morning in bright weather, and on very hot days the woodwork, paths and all absorbent surfaces sprayed two or three times a day to keep down the temperature, for the nearer you can keep the temperature of your greenhouses to 70 degrees the better your plants will do. Late sweet peas, in cool and coastal sections, are now in full bloom and the flowers should be picked off, for the forming of one seed pod exhausts the plant more than the production of a hundred flowers. Mulch the roots with stable litter or clippings from the lawn and spray the foliage at least once a day. The spraying should be done in the early morn- ing. Do all your watering in the morning and never spray your plants after noon for they will not dry off before night, and this may cause mildew. Many rose bushes have had one crop of flowers, and the long barren flower stems are sucking up 184 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL the plant's vitality at the expense of new flowering shoots that are starting vigorously from various parts. Cut off these bygone stems, as they interfere with food, light and air necessary for the small crop of good blossoms you should yet garner. Soon rest- ing time will come for roses and you should hasten the maturity of the remaining flower crop as much as possible. If you are troubled with mildew use sulphur sprinkled by hand over vines and surface of ground beneath. Do this on a hot day, for it is the fumes only, created by the sun's heat, that destroy the mildew. Sulphur used in cool, cloudy weather avails noth- ing, and the fumes rise best from the heated surface of the soil. Therefore, spray the vines or bushes first with water, very lightly, so that sulphur will lodge and stick on the sunny side of the wood, but aim to keep the soil surface from getting so wet that sul- phur will not "fume." Some old country garden- ers put heated bricks beneath rose bushes and sprin- kle sulphur on them ; this is an excellent practice if one cares to take the trouble and does not get the bricks too hot, for sulphur fumes in great volume are injurious to all classes of vegetation. For this reason scatter sulphur very thinly and evenly or foliage in some parts may be damaged on hot days. July As one wanders along the highways and byways during the summer he is oft impressed with the ex- quisite beauty of some plant, shrub or tree in a seem- ingly neglected garden, so perfectly in health and at home that it seems as though specially designed for the place. At this time out should come the notebook and pencil and down should go the name of such plant, for here indeed is the "proof of the pudding." IN CALIFORNIA 185 In no other way may you so surely get a list of plants which will endure to the end. SOWING AND PLANTING You may still sow antirrhinum, Canterbury bell, centaurea, cosmos, lobelia, pansy and stock. Con- tinue sowing eucalyptus and cypress seeds. Great care must be paid to the watering, that beds or boxes do not dry out, and if the sun is very hot they may be shaded by stretching a piece of canvas over a wooden framework and placing this over them, a foot or more from the ground, during the hottest part of the day. Gradually remove this covering until the plants are perfectly strong and stocky. They are then ready for transplanting into flats, boxes or pots. Carnation, cosmos, coreopsis, candytuft, cen- taurea, daisy, digitalis, forget-me-not, gaillardia, marigold, phlox, petunia, salpiglossis, scabiosa and violet may still be planted. SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS Those bulbs now in the ripening stage, should be taken up when the tops have died down and placed in boxes of damp sand in a cool place and allowed to cure as the sand dries. Well pulverized earth will do if you have no sand. Pelargoniums are now in full bloom. These plants do not require very rich soil and should be kept on the dry side. If kept too wet the foliage will shrivel up, and if given too rich soil they make all foliage and no flowers. The foliage or flowers should never get wet. When through watering, do not leave the hose at- tached to the hydrant. Take it off, coil it up and hang on a peg, stub of a tree, limb or something suit- 186 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL able. With such treatment a hose will last at least twice as long as if left lying on the ground full of water. Keeping cut flowers for a considerable time is very easy at this season if a little care is taken. Every day or two, in addition to changing the water, cut off a quarter to half an inch of the stem. This removes the portion with the pores closed by congealed sap and allows the water free access to the stem. Insect pests are hatching every day and must be combated in every way possible. While some propa- gate on leaf and twig the more voracious sorts are hatched or developed in some stage in the soil, so that frequent and thorough stirring of the surface will destroy many of them and also expose them to the predatory birds and garden toads. August During the summer months when many bushes and vines are still covered with bloom there is a dis- position among home gardeners to regard their work as finished and to rest on their laurels, as it were. There is a tendency to neglect the flower garden, to let it take care of itself, and neglect now is more fatal than at any other period. Just a little neglect now means destruction to some of the beautiful plants that cost time and money. Neglect now will give the aphis and other insect enemies a chance to get in some very deadly work. Neglect in tying up the long stalks of late gladiolus will cause them to fall during wind storms. Neglect in watering plants of all kinds will cause them to dry up, wither and die, defeating the object for which they were planted. Neglect to use the hoe will give the weeds a chance to grow and crowd out the flow- ers. In short, neglect of any kind will undo much IN CALIFORNIA 187 of the good work that was done earlier in the sea- son. SOWING AND PLANTING This is the best month in the year in which to sow hardy perennials. Most varieties if sown this month will flower the next year. Also sow calceolaria, cineraria, columbine, calendula, Canterbury bell, cos- mos, lobelia, pansy, pink, primula, petunia and ver- bena. Continue growing eucalyptus and cypress seeds. Those who have shady beds should grow cinera- rias. The proper directions for sowing and the care of young seedlings will be found upon trade packets. But remember that at every stage of its career the cineraria is a cool weather plant and must not be exposed to full sunshine during the middle of the day. Many of the colors are unknown in other plants and consist of what is known as metallic shades, ranging from white to purple. While excel- lent as a short season autumn bedding plant the cineraria is a good subject for potting, and in either situation requires a loose rich soil and frequent feed- ings of weak liquid manure. It must be carefully protected from plant lice, its greatest enemy. You may still plant out: Carnation, cosmos, coreopsis, candytuft, centaurea, digitalis, daisy, gaillardia, marigold, phlox, petunia, salpiglossis, scabiosa and violet. SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS Don't water roses this or next month at all. Let the soil dry out and rest the plants. House plants will dry out fast these long days. Watch them closely and never let the plants get wilt- ing dry. Spray the foliage as often as you can find 188 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL time and you will be rewarded with a stronger and healthier growth. Chrysanthemums will assimilate all the water you may give them from now until the last bloom is picked. Until the color of the buds shows also fer- tilize heavily. Neglect at this time with water means failure of the flower crop. Dahlias that bloomed early and were cut down will now be coming on for a fall crop of blossoms. Those cut down now, if well watered and fertilized, will yield a splendid show of color in November. Too many of our dahlias bloom in hot weather, and they are by no means a hot weather flower. Flowers in April and May and October and November are by far better than those of midsummer. September The month of September may well be regarded as one of the most important in the calendar of garden operations. It is during this period that every owner of a garden should make preparations for the late autumn and winter floral display. Do not wait until the planting time is over, and autumn and winter annuals and perennials have come into flower, and you notice them in your neigh- bor's garden, to find out that you want them. Either make your preparations to get them in in proper sea- son or save the money. SEED SOWING Sow pansy seed this month, and another important winter flowering bedder for putting in at present is stock. Also sow: Columbine, calendula, candytuft and forget-me-not. A few cosmos seed sown at this season will give IN CALIFORNIA 189 you a fine show of bloom by November and on dwarf plants which require no staking. A pinch of mignonette seed sown in September will give you an abundance of fine blooms right through the winter. It is hardy, easily grown and exceedingly fragrant. The best variety to sow is the French variety, Machet. This is the month for the first sowing of winter sweet peas, and followed in October by a second one, will give you an abundant succession of cut flowers right up to the time when the late flowered Spencer varieties or those of the grandiflora type begin to produce blossoms. We have no winter and early spring crop of flowers that surpasses the up-to-date strains of sweet peas. BULBS Commence planting hyacinth, tulip, anemone and other Dutch bulbs toward the end of the month, also amaryllis, calla, f reesia and iris. This is the time of the year to divide your clumps of German iris. If allowed to stand several seasons the rhizomes become crowded and the blooms subse- quently produced are small and on short stems. Make a planting during this month of ranunculus and anemone. There is nothing finer in existence for spring and winter show than these lovely bulbous plants, and they give more satisfactory results than anything of like price in the garden. Anemone put in during the month of September often produces flowers at Christmas. Begin at once to prepare beds intended for bulbs. This work should be done several days in advance of the actual planting time. Dig them over thor- oughly and deeply. Incorporate plenty of rotted manure and turn over several times. The majority 190 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL of bulbous plants require a light loamy soil which is well drained. There are few which do well in soils of a heavy nature. BEDDING PLANTS Prick off calceolaria and primula sown last month, into pots, and continue sowing same for succession. Beds which have contained summer annuals, such as asters, etc., may be filled out with stock, Canter- bury bell, centaurea, sweet William, gaillardia, sal- piglossis, columbine, antirrhinum, perennial co- reopsis, foxglove, pentstemon ; all of which are inex- pensive and will provide a bountiful supply of flow- ers both for garden ornamentation and for cutting purposes. Dead and dying flower stems, leaves, etc., should be gathered and burned or composted. If allowed to cumber the ground they will all too soon begin to harbor insects, and in the process of decay produce fungous diseases. If one has a place for a compost heap, the leaves and herbaceous material may easily be taken care if. If burned, the ashes may be re- turned to the soil with good profit, as they contain a considerable quantity of potash and still more of lime, both good substances to apply to lawn or gar- den soils. AUTUMN LAWNS Don't forget that fall lawn planting may be done in September with excellent results. A fallacious idea is somewhat prevalent in California that lawns are best put in during the winter months. When sown at that period there is a natural germination of all weed seeds, which entails a vast amount of labor for their removal. Sown at this season blue grass and clover germ- IN CALIFORNIA 191 inate rapidly, the former in about eight to ten days and the latter in five to six days. If properly put in, a dense bright green mat will form that will be ready for cutting in six to seven weeks. It should grow so dense that it will choke out in large measure, and prevent the germination of, the crop of winter weeds. In purchasing either blue grass or clover seed insist upon having the highest quality. TIMELY PRUNING Look over Cherokee rose hedges during this month and should they require pruning do it at once. To delay and prune later is proper with those roses of the noisette type, such as La Marque, Reve d'Or, etc., but is fatal to best results in the spring blooming of the Cherokees. During this month cut back, but not too severely, hedges of lantana, heliotrope, geranium, etc. With many plants of this character there is a heavy crop of seed during autumn, which saps their vitality. Trimming them at this period removes the seed and induces a fresh growth of young shoots, which ex- tends their blooming season to the middle of winter. October The month of October should be a busy one in all California gardens, for it stands much in the same relation to us as do April and May in the snow- bound eastern states. Among the flowers it is bulb month. The dry, rainless period is nearly over and ere long the first rains of autumn will wake to life every dormant seed, bulb, and plant. Soon the whole country will be clothed with beauteous green and brilliant blossoms. Gardening should be so ordered 192 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL that cultivated crops will harmonize and keep pace with the fullness of vegetative life about us. SEED SOWING Make a sowing of California poppy and other na- tive seeds during this month, doing it at this time will give them a long growing season and the full advantage of the winter rains. It is also just the time to sow hardy annuals and perennials for bedding plants. The list of these is : calendula, Canterbury bell, centaurea, cineraria, coreopsis, columbine, dianthus, forget-me-not, fox- glove, larkspur, lobelia, mignonette, pansy, phlox, salpiglossis, scabiosa, snapdragon, stock, and sweet pea. BULBS October is the best month for plantings of Spanish iris, cyclamen, freesia, and gladiolus in the early flowering varieties, the Bride, Blushing Bride, and Peachblow. Also plant watsonias, lilies, and all those bulbs that are known to gardeners as Dutch bulbs. These are such as anemones, hyacinths, nar- cissi, ranunculi and tulips. In planting any of the latter it will be well to drop a little sharp sand in the hole before filling in with soil. This method will often prevent rot in case the soil is kept too wet. A most important factor of success in the growing of bulbous plants is to have soil in a sweet, friable condition. They are fond of plenty of manure. Arrange bulb beds so that you can follow with suc- cessive plantings during November and December. Take for example the matter of planting narcissi, or daffodils as they are more commonly called. By making a first planting now, a second in November and a third as late as the fifteenth of December, you IN CALIFORNIA 193 can have a constant succession of blooms from late February up to the first of May. Build the beds with ridges at the sides so that they may be watered by flooding. This gives infinitely better results than sprinkling. Once bulbs are planted mulch the surface with one inch to an inch and a half of good fibrous manure; this retards the evaporation and tends to keep the under soil cool and moist. Bulbs in general give much better results when no surface cultivation is resorted to. The mulch referred to eliminates the necessity of culti- vation. It prevents the ground from either cracking, which is the case in soils of a heavy nature, or from drying out in those of a lighter character. HERBS, SHRUBS AND TREES Plant out in permanent place in the garden : Calen- dula, cineraria, columbine, lobelia, pansy, pink, pri- mula, petunia, and verbena. October is the time for planting evergreen shrubs and trees, and conifers of all sorts handle well at this season. The soft summer growths are now hardened up and the operation of transplanting may be done without endangering the life of the plant. The mild days, with the cool nights and mornings of a California autumn, cause but little evaporation of sap from the foliage; the new feeder roots put forth at once, and with the advent of winter rains new growths of stem and foliage spring forth with surprising rapidity. The moving at this season gives a well established tree or shrub in a short space of time. One of the most important matters for immediate consideration is attention to roses. The fall growths begin to push out during this month and it is time to prune out all the thin straggly growth, leaving the 194 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL plump, well-ripened canes which have plenty of healthy eyes of the previous spring's growth. If you are pruning dormant wood from rose bushes at present you had best make cuttings from it. All the best roses are borne on the new quick growing canes which spring from the base of the plant or from the well ripened eyes a little higher up. Mulch the beds with two or three inches of any well rotted manure after pruning. Then flood with water either by means of basins around the plant or by trenches along the sides. Don't sprinkle your plants overhead and expect results. Put the water where it belongs, at the roots, and you will have good flow- ers if you did not force them to grow during the last two months. SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS Many common garden plants may easily be propa- gated in a box of sand at this time of the year. Among these are: begonia, coleus, fuchsia, helio- trope, marguerite, etc. If left sixty days later it would be impossible to root them except in a green- house. For a dry, hot place plant some of the old-fash- ioned lavender. It will grow and bloom without water during our California summers and is very useful for filling sachets or placing in bureau draw- ers, not alone for the perfume but to keep away moths and other insects. Just as summer is closing is a good time to take note of trees, shrubs and plants that have withstood the hard conditions of summer. Some valuable ob- ject lessons may be found in every community that should prove a guide in the selection of next season's planting list. It is not sufficient to take mental note of these points — a notebook for the purpose should be carried. October is a good time for lawn making. IN CALIFORNIA 195 November Village improvement societies are now on the alert regarding time, material and manner of planting school grounds, public squares, parks and streets. Now is a good time for all preliminary work, for soil is easily worked. Even municipalities, as well as lesser communities, evince unusual activity just at this season, for it seems that with the coming of the rains all the earth must be gay — made spick and span — the natural season for festivity in California. SEED SOWING The following seeds should be sown now for a good crop of spring flowers; antirrhinum or snap- dragon, clarkia, candytuft, eschscholtzia, or Califor- nia poppy, Shirley poppy, and poppies in variety ; ten weeks stock, larkspur, leptosyne, Gypsophila elegans, pansy, saponaria, lychnis or viscaria, Virginia stock, centaurea imperialis, C. Emperor William, calen- dula or pot marigold, Prince of Orange and Meteor. It is a very good time to sow sweet peas now. It brings them into bloom just when they produce the largest and best flowers. It will pay to spade up the ground just as deeply as possible, even to two feet. Dig in a liberal supply of well-rotted manure, and work the soil over until in a friable condition before sowing. This gives not only a good depth of soil, but that good drainage which is so necessary to the suc- cessful growth of first class sweet peas. Keep them free from weeds and the surface well loosened at all times. BULBS At no other season of the year may so many bulbs be planted with both pleasure and profit as the few weeks from now until New Year's Day. This is 196 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL peculiarly the time for what is known as Dutch bulbs, and so strongly do they manifest their desire to grow that they will put forth leaves even in the dry air of the living-room if laid upon the bare table. Planted in almost any soil, they rapidly spring into life and soon give fine heads or sprays of flowers. Anemone, freesia, early-flowering gladiolus, hya- cinth, iris, ixia, jonquil, lily, montbretia, narcissus, ornithogalum, ranunculus, sparaxis and tulip are some of the most popular bulbs to plant now, and all may be obtained at any seed store and also of some of the florists and nurserymen. Do not plant your ranunculus or anemone upside down ; plant ranuncu- lus with the claws down and the anemone with the smoothest side down. This is more easily distin- guished after they have been soaked two hours. TIMELY PROPAGATION At this time you should take cuttings of soft wood and tender herbaceous plants such as : alternanthera, begonia, coleus, fuchsia, heliotrope, Impatiens sul- tani, marguerite, etc. Bottom heat is not needed though better results can be obtained with such a convenience. Get a box of clean sharp sand, see that the drain- age is perfect — plenty of holes in the bottom, wet the sand down thoroughly, put your cuttings in a slit made with a knife or thin paddle, press sand around cuttings and wet down. Watch them closely and don't allow them to dry. SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS Cut back pentstemons this month to within eight inches of the ground and they will come up stronger and bloom better next year. Violets will shortly be at their best, and the time IN CALIFORNIA 197 to fertilize for blooms is now. Give the beds a liberal mulch of manure and see that they get plenty of water without overdoing it. The rains should relieve you of this from now on. Nearly all hardy perennial flowering plants do well if put in at this season. By planting now they receive the benefit of the winter rains, start new root action, produce an abundance of bloom in spring, and become thoroughly established, thus enabling them to better withstand the heat of summer. We are now at the secondary period of bulb plant- ing, the most important operation of all fall garden work. With seasonable weather at hand this work should be prosecuted with vigor if you expect to ob- tain a full return in a wealth of flowers from the spring garden. We advise the thorough preparation of the soil ; dig the ground deeply and thoroughly, incorporating a plentiful supply of well rotted man- ure. The better the tilth of the soil, the more satis- factory will be the results. THE ROSE GARDEN Now is the time to attend to roses if heretofore neglected. Where the bushes have been dried off during the summer, for winter flowers all the weak wood should be cut away and the stronger branches cut back heavily, as this treatment will induce longer stems and a better quality of flowers. Such roses should then be watered thoroughly. Should the bushes be expected to produce a crop of bloom, both for winter and spring, it will be found best to cut away only the weak wood entirely, and the stronger growth just enough to balance the plant nicely, and then prune more heavily the latter part of February. Proper treatment necessarily varies, 198 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL according to the harshness of winter in your section of the state. Give the soil a good dressing of well rotted manure and spade under a few inches only, for if spaded too deeply the roots are liable to be injured, and the bushes will need all the root action possible to de- velop first-class flowers. A deeper spading may be given in the spring. December There is no time like the present to give the garden a general overhauling, to attend to the manuring and spading up of all vacant beds and borders. After spading leave the ground in a rough state, that is, don't rake it down, as the sun and air will do more good, and it will leave the ground in a more friable condition than if raked down too smooth. Don't be afraid to enrich abundantly, as the ground will be in better condition for spring planting. SEED SOWING Now is the time to plant sweet peas. With proper cultivation there is nothing that yields such a boun- teous harvest as sweet peas, and a sowing of sca- biosa made at this period will give a splendid display of bloom in early spring. Seeds of all garden annuals of hardy sorts may safely be sown now, and sweet peas are always on the autumn and winter planting list. Specific sorts for planting in the general garden now are arctotis, dianthus, phlox, salvia and all the "old-fashioned" garden inmates known to eastern gardens. Among other seeds that can be planted during De- cember, the plants of which will give you a fine dis- play of spring blossoms, are sweet alyssum, calen- dula, winter marigold, California poppy, baby blue- IN CALIFORNIA 199 eye, candytuft, of which Emperor and hyacinth- flowered are the two best strains, forget-me-not, larkspur, in the annual sorts, mignonette, pansy, salpiglossis, snapdragon, stock, annual calliopsis, foxglove, and verbena. ' BULBS If you would have a display of blooms from bulb- ous plants, now is the time to act. December is the last call for bulbs. If space is limited and you would like to make use of the ground for spring blooms, all dormant bulbs, dahlia, for example, should now be taken up and stored in a cool, dry place until March or April. The anemone, narcissus, or daffodil, single and double, in shades of orange, yellow and white, the Dutch hyacinth, tulip, Spanish iris, early and late flowering gladiolus, lily, Roman hyacinth, ixia, ra- nunculus, sparaxis, freesia, ornithogalum (Star of Bethlehem) , cyclamen, montbretia, and German iris should all be planted immediately. GENERAL PLANTING Now is the time to plant roses. Planted now they will be forming new roots, the tops will be dormant, but with pulsing spring the buds will swell and soon make a growth that will produce blooms to fill the garden with fragrance and beauty. All hardy peren- nials, vines, ornamental deciduous trees and shrubs, as well as hardy evergreen shrubs and trees and conifers, may be planted. If you have not yet planted pansies, prepare a bed of rich, light, well-pulverized soil in a warm, sunny place so that you may have pansy blossoms in spring and early summer. Now is a good time to stir all- soil whether for immediate use or otherwise. Turn 200 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL it up and allow it to get thoroughly aired and sunned ; after a time level it down, and when beaten solid by- rains, spade up deeply again. If fertilizer is put in at the first spading, a well-mixed, resourceful soil will be the result. SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS Chrysanthemums may be taken up and tempo- rarily planted in some waste piece of ground. Then dig up the ground, enrich with well rotted manure, and you are ready to make a planting. Do not be snipping off the ends of branches on deciduous shrubs that are now dormant or becoming so, or you will rob the plants of the best of their spring's crop of bloom; they should be pruned only immediately after flowering. Neither prune any plant or vine that is very tender, for the frost may do it for you, and the growth so injured may protect the balance of the plant from injury or death during a very cold spell. Now is the time when all clumps of cannas, caladi- ums, etc., should be taken up and stored in a cool, dry place. Late March or early April will be early enough for replanting. While it is not necessary to remove them no advantage accrues from leaving them in the soil, and if old masses of roots are left for years, they do not thrive as well as if divided. It is also advisable, if their room is more desirable than their presence, to so store clumps of golden- rod, golden glow and other vigorous, free-rooting perennials. Do not fertilize lawns. The great disadvantage of fertilizing too early is to force a nice green growth at the time we are expecting our cold weather and the consequence is it makes a spurt, and when it should look nice in early spring it stops growing and IN CALIFORNIA 201 looks brown. It has been forced from its natural resting time, the tender growth is frozen, and it takes its rest toward spring when the fertilizer has exhausted its forcing qualities. February and March will be found the best time to manure lawns, and from that time there will be a luxuriant growth until winter. GLOSSARY The following list of scientific names, with definitions, embraces all those in more common use. The definitions are not all literal but the meaning as applied to plants. A, at the beginning of words of Greek derivation, commonly signi- fies a negative : as aptera = wingless ; from a, without, and ptera, wiDg ; acaulis, a, without, caulis, stem= stemless. acantha, spine, acaulis, stemless. acicularis, sickleshaped. aculeata, spiny, acuminata, taper-pointed, acuta, sharp-pointed, adeno, glandular, affine, related, alata, winged, alba, white, albicans, whitish, albo-lineata, white-lined, alnifolia, alder-leaved, alpestre, alpine, rocky, amabilis, lovely, amoena, pleasing, amorpha, formless, ampla, large, angusta, narrow, aptera, wingless, aquatica, water-loving, aquifolia, holly-leaved, arborescens, tree-like, arenaria, sand-loving, argentea, silvery, argyrea, silvery, aristata, awned. bearded, armata, armed, articulata, jointed, aspera, rough. Atlantica, Atlantic, atrosanguinea, dark-red. atrovirens, dark-green, attenuata, thin, aurantiaca, orange-colored, aurea, golden, auriculata, eared, aurita, eared, australis, southern, azurea, blue. baccata, berry-like, bacillaris, rod-like, barbata, barbed, bella, charming, bicolor, two-colored, bifida, two-cleft, biflora, two-flowered, bifurcata, two-forked, blpinnata, twice-pinnate. brachy, short, brevifolia, short-leaved, bulbifera, bulb-bearing. caespitosa, many-headed, calycina, cup-shaped, campanulata, bell-shaped. Canariensis, Canary Islands. Candida, white, canescens, hoary. Capensis, Cape of Good Hope, capillaris, hair-bearing, capitata, headed, cardinalis, cardinal-red. carnea, flesh-colored, carpa, fruit, caudata, tailed, cerifera, wax-bearing, chlorophylla, green-leaved, chrysantha, yellow flowered, ciliaris, hair-fringed, ciliata, silky-haired, cinerea, ash-colored, circinata, rolled upwards, citrina, lemon-yellow, citriodora, lemon-scented, clavatus, club-shaped, coccifera, berry-bearing, coccinea, scarlet, coerulea, blue, collina, hill, communis, common, concolor, one-color, conferta, dense, congesta, close-headed, contorta, twisted, cordata, heart-shaped, coriacea, leathery, cornigera. horn-bearing, cornuta, horned, coronata. crowned, crassifolia. thick-leaved, crenata, scallop-edged, cretacea, chalked. Cretan, Island of Crete. Cretica, Island of Crete, crispa, curled, cristata, crested, cucullata, hooded, cuneata, wedge-shaped. THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 203 cupressina, cypress-like, cyanea, blue. dealbata, powdery. deca-, ten. decandra, ten-stemmed. decipiens, deceiving. decora, comely. decurrens, prolonged on stem. decussata, opposing pairs. deflexa, bending. demissa, low. denticulata, toothed. dependens, banging. digitata, fingered. discolor, various-colored. disticba, two-ranked. divaricata, straggling. dulcis, sweet. dumosa, busby. eburnea, ivory-like, echinata, bedge-bog-like. edulis, edible, elata, tall, elongata, trailing, emarginata, notched at tip. ericoides, heath-like, eriocarpa, wooly-fruited. esculenta, edible, exaltata, high, excelsa, tall, eximea, excellent. falcata, sickle-shaped. farinosa, mealy. fasciculata, close-clustered. fastigiata, parallel and upright. ferox, fierce. ferruginea, rusty. ficifolia, fig-leaved. filamentosa, thready. filifera, thread-bearing. fimbriata, fringed. flabella, fan-shaped. flagella, whip-shaped. flammea, fiery. flava, yellow. flexuosa, waved ziz-zaggly. flore-plena, double-flowered. floribunda, free-flowering. florida, florid. foetida, stinking. folia, foliage. foliosa, leafy. formosa, beautiful. fragrans, fragrant. frigida, stiff, frosty. fruticosa, shrubby. fulgens, glowing, brilliant. funebris, funereal, dismal. genus, rank above species, gigas, giant, glabra, smooth, gladiata, sword-like. glauca, milky-white, glutinosa, sticky, gracile, slender, gracillima, graceful, graminea, grass-like, grandis, splendid, great, graveolens, strong-smelling, guttata, spotted. hastata, spear-shaped. hederacea, ivy-like. hepta, seven. herbacea, berb-like. herbaceous. heterophylla, variable-leaved. hexa, six. hirsuta, hairy. hirta, hairy. hispida, hairy. hortensis, garden. humilis, dwarf. hystrix, bristly. -ifera, bearing, ignea, fiery, ilicifolia, holly-leaved, imbricata, overlapping, incisa, deeply-cut. Indica, Indian, indigenous, native, indivisa, undivided, simple, inermis, unarmed, integrifolia, entire-leaved. juncea, rush-like. labiata, lipped, laciniata, deeply-cut. lacta, milky. laevigata, smooth-stemmed, lanata, wooly. lanceolata, lance-shaped, lasiocarpa, wooly-fruited. latifolia, broad-leaved, laurifolia, laurel-leaved, laxa, loose. leucorrhiza, white-rooted, leucoxylon, white-wooded, lignosus, woody, linearis, narrow-leaved, lineata, lined, lingua, tongued. linifolia, flax-leaved, lobata, lobed. longifolia, long-leaved, longipes, long-stalked, lophanta, crested, lucida, shiny, lunata, crescent-shaped. Lusitanica, Portugal. macro, large. macrophylla, large-leaved, maculata, spotted, majalis, May. major, greater, majus, large, marmora, marbled. 204 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL maxima, largest. media, middle. mega, large. megarhiza, large-rooted. melan, black. micro, small. microphylla, small-leaved. miniata, vermillion. minor, less. mirabilis, wonderful. mitis, small. molle, soft. mollissima, soft. mono-, one. monophylla, one-leaved. montana. mountain. moschata, musky. multi-, many. multiflora, many-flowered. muricata, short, hard pointed. mutabilis, changeable. myrio, many. myriophylla, many-leaves. myrtifolia, myrtle-leaved. nana, dwarf, nemorale, wood, neriifolia, oleander-leaved, nervata, veined, nigra, black, nitida, shining, nivea, snowy, nodiflora, knot-flowered, nodosa, knotty, knobby, nucifera, nut-bearing, nuda, naked, nutans, nodding. ob-, signifies inversion. obcordata, heart-shaped apex. obovata, broad end outward. obtusa, blunt. occidentalis, western. ocellata, eyed. ochra-leuca, yellowish-white. octo-, eight. odorata, sweet-scented. -oides, like, similar. orientalis, eastern. ornata, adorned. ovata, egg-shaped. oxygona, sharp-angled. -oxylon, wood. oxypetala, sharp-petalled. pallida, pale, palustre, marsh, paniculata, panicled. papyrifera, paper-bearing, parviflora, small-flowered, patens, spreading, pauclflora, few-flowered, pectinata, comb-like, pedata, bird-footed, peltata, stem in center, pendula, drooping. penta, five. pentaphylla, five-leaved. Persica, Persia, phylla, leaf, picta, painted, pinnata, divided, platy phylla, broad-leaved, plumosa, feathery, podophylla, foot-leaved, poly-, many. polypodium, many-footed, populifolia, poplar-leaved, primulina, primrose-yellow, princeps, princely, procumbens, trailing, pruinata, frosted, pseudo, false, like, pubescens, downy, pudica, chaste. pugioniformis, dagger-shaped, pulchella, pretty, pulchra, beautiful, pulverulenta, powdery, pumila, small, punicea, reddish, pusilla, diminutive, pygmea, dwarf. quadri-, four, quinata, in fives, quinquifolia, five-lobed. racemosa, racemed. radiata, radiating, radicans, rooting, ramosa, branched, ramosissima, much-branched, reclinata, curved downwards, reniforme, kidney-shaped, repens, creeping, reticulata, netted, revoluta, rolled back, rhododendron, rose-tree, rhombifolia, diamond-leaved, ringens, gaping open, riparia, river-bank, rosea, rosy, rostrata, beaked, rotundifolia, round-leaved, rubens, reddish, rubra, red. rugosa, wrinkled. salicifolia, willow-leaved, sanguinea, blood-colored, sarmentosa, flexible-twiggy, sativa, cultivated, saxitile, rock, scabra, rough, scandens, climbing, scoparia, broom-like, semi-, half. semper, ever. always, semper-aurea, ever-golden. 6emperflorens, ever-flowering, sempervirens, evergreen. IN CALIFORNIA 205 senile, white-haired, serotina, late, serrata, saw-leaved, serrulata, saw-leaved, sessile, stemless. siliqua, bearing long pods. Sinensis, Chinese, sparsa, few. species, rank below genus. speciosa, showy, spectabilis, showy, spicata, spiked, spiralis, spiral, stellata, star-like, striata, striped, stricta, upright, suaveolens, sweet-scented, subulata, awl-shaped, sulphurea, sulphur-yellow, sylvatica, of woods, sylvestris, of woods. tenella,* delicate, small, tenuifolia, narrow-leaved, tenuis, slender, tetra-, four. tetrandra, four-stemmed, tigrinum, striped, tinctoria, dyer's, tomentosa, downy, torulosa, twisted. toxica, poison, toxifera, poison-bearing, tri,- three. triangulare, three-angled, tricolor, three-colored, trifida, three-cleft, triflora, three-flowered, triloba, three-lobed. truncata, square-cut tip. ulmifolia, elm-leaved. umbraculifera, umbrella-bearing. undulata. wavy. uni-, one. uniflora, one-flowered. urticifolia, nettle-leaved. variety, rank below species, velutina, velvety, venosa. veined, ventricosa, inflated, venusta, lovely, vera, true. versicolor, various-colored, verticillata, whorled. vesca, edible, vestita, clothed, viminea, slender-twiggy, violacea, violet, virens, green, viridiflora, green-flowered, viscosa, clammy, vitella, yellowish, vittata, striped, vivipara, plant-bearing, volubilis, twining, vulgaris, common. INDEX Aberia 51 Acacia 38, 39, 54 Achras 52 Akebia 58 Albizzia 39, 48 Altbea 54, 56 Ampelopsis 62 Annuals, general 71 native 72, 73 exotic and garden 74, 78 Anona 51 Antigonon 62 Ants 153, 155, 158 Aphis 155, 156, 160 Aquariums 92 Araucaria 42 Arbor (illus.) 9 Arbor-vitae 42, 43 Aristolocbia 62 Ash 48,54,55 Asparagus 58 pink 48 Avocado 51 Backgrounds for gardens 21 Bacteria for clover 29 Bamboo 49, 50 Barberry 56 Beaumontia 58 Bedding Plants 190 Beefwood 39, 53 Begonias 106 Bermuda Grass 33 Big Tree 40 Bignonia 58 Blue Grass 28 Borders, house 84 Bottle Brush 54, 55 Bougainvillea 58 Box Elder 48 Bridal Wreath 56 Broussonetia 48 Bulbs, general 109 Dutch or Holland 120, 121 fertilizers for 121, 122 see garden calendar 161 Bunya-bunya 42 Cactus 68, 69 Calendar, garden 161-201 Canna 80 Cape Chestnut 39 Carissa 51 Carnations 81, 83, 167, 181 Carob Tree 39, 55 Casimiroa 51 Casuarina 39, 53 Caterpillars 158 Cedar, true 43, 54 incense 41, 46 white 43 red 43, 54, 55 Port Orford 45 Japan 46, 54 Ceratonia 39, 55 Cherimoya 51 Chestnut, true 48 cape 39 Chrysanthemum 143 propagation 143, 172, 173 planting 146, 181 training 146 staking 147 fertilizing 148 disbudding 148 kinds of buds 149 pot culture 150 sorts to grow 151 history 151 Clover, for lawns 27, 29 Coffee Tree 54 Conifers 39-46 Cotoneaster 56 Cottonwood 48, 53, 55 Cryptomeria 46 Custard Apple 51 Cypress 44, 45, 55 Cytisus 55 Dahlias 112, 114 Deciduous Trees 47, 48, 169 Deutzia 56 Dogwood 56 Dolichos 59 Dracena 49 Elm 48 Eucalyptus 39, 52-54 hardy 52, 53 Eugenia 51 Evergreen Trees 38-47 Evonymus, shrubby 54 climbing 59 Feijoa 52 Fences, hedges, walls 18 Ferns, house 101, 104 Fertilizers, general (illus.)- •• 25 lawn 24,25,34,165 for roses 134, 135 mixing 25 incompatibility of 25 Ficus macrophylla 39 pumila (repens) 59 Flowers, cut 108 Fog-fruit 30 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 207 Fuchsia 79, 80 Garden Calendar 161-201 Gardening, landscape 11 styles of 11 Garden Seat (illus.) 9 Gardens, formal 19 wild 67, 68, 83, 84 cactus : 68, 69 wall . 69, 70 rose 123, 197 Genista 55 Geraniums .79, 84 Ginkgo 41, 48 Gladioli 117-119 Gophers 159 Gourds 63 Grading, from house 18 Grapes, evergreen 62 Green Fly 155-157, 160 Grevillea robusta 39 Guava 52 Hackberry 48 Hanging Baskets 99, 101 Hedges, walls, fences 18 Hippeastrums 110, 114 Honeysuckle 60 Hopvine 63 House Plants 95, 101, 108 potting 96, 97 ferns 101, 104 palms 104 Hydrangea 56 Iris, general 119, 120 waterside 94 Ivies 59 Jacaranda 39 Jasmine 60 Juniper 42, 46, 54 Kai Apple 51 Kentucky Blue Grass 28 Larkspur 80, 81 Lawns, general 23, 24, 176 fertilizers for 24, 25, 34, 169 care of 27 seed for 27 grasses for 28 clover 29 lippia 30, 32 weeds in 26, 27, 33 witch grass 33 devil grass 33 Bermuda grass 33 dandelions 34 chickweed 34 sorrel 34 lime for 34 wood ashes 84 fertilizing 165, 169, 176 soils for 21,22 planting season 24 watering 27 mowing, when 28 Leptospermum 55 Libocedrus 41, 46 Ligustrum 39 Lilac . . . ._ 56 Lilies, garden 115, 116 water 88, 90 Lippia 30-32 Locust Tree 53, 55 Loquat 52 Lotus, Egyptian 91 Maidenhair Tree 41, 48 Mango 51 Maples 48, 54, 55 Mesquite 54 Mildew, on Rose 127,128,159 Mock Orange 56 Monkey Puzzle 42 More ton Bay Fig 39 Mulberry, true 54 paper 48 Myoporum 54 Nerium 39 Oak, cork 39 live 39 caterpillars on 158 Old-fashioned Flowers 78 Oleander 39 Osage Orange 54 Palms 14, 48, 49, 54 house 104 misuse of 12 Palo Verde 54 Parasol Tree 48 Passion vine 60 Peas, sweet 75, 76 Pecan- 48 Pelargoniums 79 Pepper Tree 39 Perennials, herbaceous 76-78 division of 177 Pergola (illus.) 20 Persea 51 Pests and Diseases 153 Philadelphus 56 Phlox, perennial 78, 79 Pine 40, 41, 42, 45, 55 Pittosporum 39 Plane Tree 48, 54 Planning, general 7, 18 what to avoid 8 what to grow 10 open lawns 12 massed planting 14 avoid straight lines 17 utility plats 19 back yards 20 roads and paths 22 Plans (illus.) 13,15,16 Planting Calendar 161, 201 Plant Lice 155-157 208 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL Plants for alkali 81 for sandy soils 81 Platanus 48 Plum, purple-leaved 54 Podocarpus 46 Poinsettia 54 Pomegranate 54 Ponds • • • • §7 Poplars 48, 53-55 Poppies, true 74, 75 Privet 39, 54 Propagation by cuttings 171 by division 172 timely 196 Quercus agrif olia 39 suber 39 Quince, flowering 5b R a ts 158 Red Spider 157,158,160 Redwood 40 Rockeries, building . 65 where to build 66, 67 Roses, garden 123 gardens • . • • l*d types of 123,124 mildew on 127, 128, 159 summer treatment 125-127 winter treatment 127 soils for 125 propagation of 128 cuttings of 129 budding 130 budding (illus.) 131 from seeds 132 pruning 133, 175, 197 fertilizers for 134, 175, 198 lists of 136-141 climbing 139-141 history of 141-142 red spider on 160 planting 199 Sapodilla 52 Sapota 51, 52 Scale Insects 157, 158 Schinus molle 39 Seed Sowing 161 Sequoia 40 Shrubs, fruiting 51, 52 for deserts 54 deciduous 55, 56 see garden calendar 161 pruning 174 evergreen 193 spring-flowering 56 Silk Oak 39 Slugs and Snails 158 Snowball 56 Snowberry 56 Solandra 61 Solanum 61 Sollya 61 Spindle Tree 54 Spirea 56 Spruce 40 Squirrels, ground 159 St. John's Bread 39, 55 Sterculia 39, 48 Sweet Shrub 56 Sycamore 48, 54 Syringa 56 Tacsonia 61 Tamarisk 54, 55 Terrace Covers 31 Thuya 42, 43, 54 Trachycarpus 49 Tree of Heaven 54, 55 Trees, general 35 splitting forks 56 measuring (illus.) 36 planting 37, 168, 169 for streets 37, 38 evergreen 38-40, 168 coniferous 40-46, 198 deciduous 47, 48, 169 ornamental fruit 21, 50, 51 for deserts 53 for alkaline soils 54, 55 see garden calendar .... 161-201 citrus 50 pruning (illus.) 55 Tulip Tree 48 Umbrella Tree 48, 53 Victoria 90 Vines, deciduous 62, 63 evergreen 58-62 misuse of 64 gourds, squashes, etc 63 pruning 174, 175 on buildings 57 heat-resistant 63 Virginia Creeper 63 Vitis 62 Walnut 54 Water Gardens, general 85 Water Lilies 88, 90 soils for 91 pests 93, 94 Weigelia 56 Willow 53, 55 Wire Vine 60 Wistaria 63 Worms, in pots 156 cut-worms 156-157 Yew 46, 47 Zapote 52