F 11% .3 illliiw^^^^^ ill Pi*i Glass. Book_^ PROGRESS OF NEW YORK IN A CENTURY. 1776— 1876. AN AD DRESS DELIVERED BEFORE THE NEW YORK HISTORICAL SOCIETY DECEMBER 7, 1875, BY JOHN AUSTIN 'STEVENS. NEW YORK: PRINTED FOR THE SOCIETY. 1876. NEW YORK HISTORICAL SOCIETY. At a stated meeting of the New York Historical Society, held in its Hall on Tuesday Evening, December 7th, 1875 : Mr. John Austin Stevens read the paper of the evening on " 77/;? Progress of Nezu York ill a Century. 1776-1S76." On its conclusion, Mr. George H. Moore submitted the following resolution, which was seconded by the Rev. Dr. Samuel Osgood, and adopted : Resolved, That the thanks of the Society be presented to Mr. Stevens, for his valuable paper read this evening, and that a copy be requested for publication. E.xtract from the Minutes, ANDREW WARNER, Recording Secretary. I \ THE PROGRESS OF Ni:W YORK IN A CENTURY 1776-1876. Mr. President and Members OF THE New York Historical Society : The members of this Society will remember that early last winter a petition was addressed by it to the Governor and Legislature of the State of New York, praying for authority to prepare a Memorial Volume, showing the growth of the State during the last century ; and it was respectfull}^ in-ged that no more fitting contribution could be made by the State to the International Exhibition, to be held at Philadelphia, than a faithful record of the progress of this great commu- nit}- in political, civil, and social life. Other and more pressing duties have, no doubt, hindered the Governor of the State from paying any regard to this request, and the petition left in his hands by the Committee of this Society has never been presented to the Legislature. A further effort will be made at the approaching session, though the time is short for such an exhibit as the extent and nature of the subject demand. It has not been the habit of New York to pause in its march to count the milestones which mark its progress. In the many new duties which perpetually crowd themselves upon this busy communit}', there has been little time for such considerations, and only here and there sketches -like those of Duer, F"rancis, and King have attracted passing notice ; but now that in the depression which almost in- evitably follo\\s a period of unusual activity, there is a moment of pause and discouragement, the thought ma)' be profitably turned backward, new hope be derived from a retrospective view, and new courage drawn from the example of that wondrous activity which, from a depth of miser)- un- I 4 NEW YORK IN THE REVOLUTION. paralleled in the history of any other of the colonial cities, has lifted New York to its undisputed pre-eminence as the metropolitan city of the Western Continent, and its rank among the few cosmopolitan cities of the world. Early in the war the British Government recognized the importance of occupying the city of New York as a military post and a basis of supplies. Repeating the strategy, old as war itself, of dividing the hostile territory by seizing the great rivers which serve at once as lines of separation and easy avenues of transportation, the plan of subjugation in- cluded the occupation of Quebec and New York, and the establishment of a line of almost unbroken water commu- nication by the Hudson and St. Lawrence, navigable high up for vessels of the largest size, which should isolate the great and populous New England colony from those of the Middle region. With these magnificent harbors, at which all her fleets could ride at easy anchor, Great Britain was sure of safe and convenient bases for the operation of her troops ; and her vessels could patrol the long broad streams as safely as the warlike vessels of the old Northmen the streams and lakes of Southern Europe, from the Seine to the Mediter- ranean. A similar policy adopted by the great Union com- manders during the late war held the Ohio and the Tennes- see with gunboats, and again dividing the Confederacy by the broad and rapid course of the Mississippi, insured the final triumph of the national arms. The failure of Great Britain was not a consequence of her strategy, but inherent to the condition of the two countries. A careful perusal of the journals of the day, which abound in papers of remark- able vigor and sagacity, amply shows that there was never a doubt in the minds of the colonists of their ability to achieve their independence. Nor is it at all probable that, even with entire union in the councils of Great Britain, there could have been any other result. Indeed, as early as 1740 serious alarm had been felt in England by the Ministry, and a defection of the colonies feared. Great Britain, rich in every appliance of civilization, whose foundries and manufactories had increased many fold her NEW YORK IN THE REVOLUTION. 5 manual force by mechanical contriwancc, was poor in men. The com[)laint of Goldsmith, made in the " Deserted Vil- lage," in 1770, was still fresh in the ears of his countrymen, and his sigh of regret over the time — " Ere England's griefs began, When every rood of ground maintained its man," had been wafted across the Atlantic to those of a race who knew no such sorrow. In the land struggles of the Continen- tal powers, where men were abundant and the material of war was scarce, the wealth and resources of Great Britain had always turned the scale, and on the sea she had proclaimed a policy of exclusion and imperial assumption which, since the defeat of the Dutch fleet, had never received more than tem- porary check. But the contest with the colonies was to be ot man to man whh a race to whom the very struggles for mas- tery of the continent with the old enemy, France, had taught the secrets of military science. In this contest no ingenuity or contrivance could make up for numerical inferiority, nor could the British Government hope for any serious advantage from local divisions or dissensions. With but few inconsider- able exceptions the colonists Avere of one mind, and though there were many, particularly in New York, of direct or near English descent, who were unwilling to take up arms against their immediate kindred, yet their secret sympathies were all wnth their old companions and friends. The American spirit was already strong. The king had said, " the test of the colonies is submission." But the colonies had been founded by men who would not submit to arbitrary rule, whether priestly or regal. The first act of repression crystallized re- sistance, and consolidated hesitating opinions into firm and set resolve. It was the misfortune of New York, to AA'hose sagacity and inflexible resolve the union of the colonies was chiefly due, that she should be, from her position of natural and central advantage, the seat of hostile occupation. The American leaders foreseeing, if not informed of the strategy of the enemy, had failed in their first efforts to thwart its accomplishment. 6 THE BRITISH OCCUPATION. The attack upon Quebec had been repulsed, and the St. Law- rence lay open from its mouth to the Lakes. The line of the Hudson became now of the utmost importance, and while the northern army was slowly gathering for its defence, Wash- in^^ton moved from the eastward to New York, to cover the city and prevent the landing of Lord Howe. His efforts were fruitless; on the 22d August, 1776, the British troops were safely landed on Long Island, under the guns of the fleet, and Washington, defeated in a disastrous battle on the 27th, retreated across the river and prepared for the abandonment of the city. It is hardly possible for those who have never personally witnessed the capture of a great city to realize the anxiety and gloom which fall upon the unfortunate population— an anxiety and gloom to which civil war adds double horrors. The re- sult of the battle of Long Island filled New York with alarm, the apprehensions of the citizens being heightened by the memory of their struggles in the past with the royal troops, who had many a discomfiture to avenge. Numbers hastily followed the retreating army, including many sick and help- less, for whom Gen. Washington had provided with humane foresight. On the 15th of September, 1776, the British troops took possession of the city, and in their train were refugees from all sections. Later, traders and speculators came in hordes by every transport fleet from Great Britain, and a large business sprung up in the purchase and sale of army supplies, but the city itself found no profit in this abnormal traffic. Its legiti- mate occupation as the outlet and inlet of product and sup- plies for a large section of country entirely disappeared, and its merchants, one by one, gave way to hucksters and petty traders whose interest was limited by and dependent upon the British occupation. The streets and buildings were allowed to go to decay, with the exception of temporary repairs for sanitary reasons, and the glories of the once thriving city were but a story of the past. Two terrible con- flagrations added to the measure of distress and ruin. Hardly had the British troops taken possession ere (on the 21st of THE BRITISH OCCUPATION. ^ September, 1776) a disastrous fire, breaking out in a small wooden house on the wharf near Whitehall, occupied by dissolute characters, spread to the northward, and consumed the entire cit}^ westward of Broadway to the very northern- most limit. In this terrible calamity, which owed its extent to the desertion of the city and the terror of the few remain- ing inhabitants, 493 houses were destroyed, including old Trinity and the Lutheran Church. Another destructive fire broke out on Cruger's ■i\-harf on the 3d of August, 1778, ^iid burned about 54 houses. At last the fortune of war changed. The thunder of the American artillery at Saratoga, where the sons of New York were in full force on her own battle-field, and at Yorktown, where the same gallant corps vied in friendly and not unequal rivalry with the trained officers of France, had cleared the sky, and beneath the smoke of battle peace was dawning in the near horizon. On the 24th of March, 1783, Eobert R. Livingston, the Secretary of Foreign Affairs, notified Wash- ington, then at West Point, of the agreeable intelligence of a general peace, and on the 9th of April following, at 12 o'clock, peace was proclaimed from the steps of the City Hall by the Town ]\Lijor. The patriots were in giee, the English occu- pants and their friends in alarm. Oliver de Lancey, the Adjutant-General of the Royal army, issued a proclamation a few days later, offering transportation to all those who wished to withdraw from the city, and measures were taken to establish a refugee colony in Nova Scotia. During the summer there was a constant departure by the fleets, and the Whigs began to pour into the city and take possession of their deserted homes and estates. Feeling ran high, and the remaining loyalists awaited in terror the hour when the final \\ithdrawal of the British forces should leave them help- less at the mercy of the irritated patriots. The prudent fore- sight of Gen. Washington, counselling " moderation and steady behavior," and the wise precautions of Gov. Clinton, happily arrested any disposition to excess, and in this they were nobly seconded by the Whig leaders, who at the meet- ing to prepare for the reception of the American troops, 8 DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY. after a signification of their opinion of those who had remain- ed in the city during the British occupation, by a request that any such withdraw from the room, pledged themselves to " prevent any confusion that may arise on and after the day of evacuation." On the 25th day of November the American army, under the command of Major-Gen. Henry Knox, marched from Harlem to the Bowery lane, where they remained until I o'clock, when, the British posts being with- drawn, the American column marched in and took possession of the city. Nothing could have been more grateful to New York than this disposition, for in Knox's artillery command was the favorite regiment, commanded by Col. John Lamb, and officered by men who like himself were of the earlier Patriots and Sons of Liberty. The new era began upon this day ; henceforth New York is to move on her marvellous career. Stripped of everything, her streets in decay, her halls in dilapidation, her churches burned, desecrated, or abused, whole sections charred and blackened ruins, her shops empty — the retiring tradesmen having conveyed away their goods as well as their profits — her tenements vacant, her citizens in poverty and rags ; a city of desolation ; yet like the athlete who has thrown aside every external trapping, and stands stripped to the loins for the contest which is to strain every nerve and draw each muscle to the utmost tension, a contest of which fame, and wealth, and honor are the reward, she is the stronger for her nakedness. In a few years she appears reorganized, rebuilt, with new architecture, new in- stitutions, faci/c J)7'i7iccps the imperial city of the continent. Though New York had suffered the change in its physical surface and interior life, which is in every city the result of foreign hostile occupation, varying its purpose and pursuits, diverting its channels of industry, and disturbing its social organization, the limits of the city itself were the same in 1783 as on the outbreak of war in 1775. The area of the city at this time may be described as comprised within a line drawn from the North River at the foot of Reade street across the island in an easterly direction to the East River at the foot of Catharine street. Within this surface, which was DESCRIPTION OF THE CllY. 9 dix'ided into six wards, known from the time of the charter granted by Gov. Montgomerie in 1730 as the West, South, Dock, East, North, and Montgomerie Wards, was the princi- pal seat of population ; beyond, on a part of what was called the Out Ward, was an irregular parallelogram, with Division street as a base, extending easterly as far as Norfolk, and northerly to Hester, through which ran the Old Bowery Lane to Kingsbridge — a total surface averaging about three- fourths of a mile in width, and embraced within a circumfer- ence of about four miles. Broadway was then, as now, the ridge or back-bone of the lower end of the island. From it the land fell in easy slope to the East River, but to the west- ward a steep embankment, \\ith occasional breaks, separated it from the Hudson, presenting an appearance from the river not unlike that of the Brookl}'n Highlands within oHr own memory. The water line on the East Ri\'er, where the greater part of the shipping lay at this period, and a great depth of water was found at every pier, extended from Whitehall to the ship-yards at the foot of Catharine street, a distance of one and a half miles, passing in its easterly course Coenties slip, or the Albany Basins ; the Great Dock at the foot of Broad street ; Cruger's W'harf, a broad land projection on the line of present Front street, \\'ith extending piers, and Burnet's Key on the line of Water street ; and running with numer- ous other irregularities, and intersecting piers and slips, of which Cofifee-House slip and its extension, Murray's Wharf, at the foot of Wall street, and Burling's, Beekman's, and Peck slips were the most important. From the Fly Market, at the foot of Maiden lane, a ferry communicated with Long Island. On the water-line of the Hudson, extending from the Battery to the foot of Reade street, one and a half miles, there were no wharves below Little Queen (now Cedar) street, and but few and inconsiderable structures above, as far as Murray street. From the rear of the houses on Broadway gardens were laid out on the slope, which ended in a sandy beach. Mr. Duer relates in his interesting sketch of old New York, that his mother was wont, in her youth, to amuse her- lO DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY. self fishing from a summer-house or garden-wall overhanging the water in the rear of one of these Broadway houses. Cortlandt street was the principal street, cut through the green embankment ; at its foot were the Bear (now Wash- ington) Market, and the ferry to Powles Hook (now Jersey City), then as now the thoroughfare to the Jerseys. There was a third ferry from Scotch Johnnie's tavern at Whitehall to Staten Island. The streets were irregular and of great diversity, the better houses being built of brick, after the English manner, except that the roofs were tiled. They were mostly painted. Water and Queen (now Pearl) streets were low and narrow, with insufficient sidewalks, in some parts with none. They were the chief business streets. Broad street, which extended from the Exchange at the water side to the City Hall, on the cor- ner of Wall street, was the main avenue, a street of sufficient width and well inhabited. Wall street was a wide and ele- vated street, and the buildings in it large and elegant. The upper part, toward Broadway, was a fashionable residence, the lower end exclusively given up to stores, auctioneers' rooms, and offices, here and there interspersed with lodging- houses. Broadway was already beginning to be thought the most agreeable and convenient part of the city, being unin- cumbered by traffic, and from its high situation free from the nuisances with which the imperfect system of drainage afflicted the streets near the East River. Beginning at the Bowling Green, there were buildings as far as St. Paul's Church. The lower end facing the green was a favorite resi- dence. The street numbers began here. No. i was the Kennedy mansion. On the corner of Stone street (now Thames street) was the famous tavern, afterwards replaced by the City Hotel. The great fire stopped with the destruc- tion of Trinity Church, and spared the buildings to the north- ward on the front of the street. There were only two brick hou"ses at the upper end of Broadway opposite St. Paul's, both of which have now disappeared. They later made part of the Arden estate, and one of them was for a long period occupied by the Chemical Bank, and, with its neighbor, is THE PARKS OF THE CITY. II now the site of the Park Bank building. On the opposite side of Vesey street there stood on the corner a l^uilding of two stories. A sign-bo-ard affixed upon it bore the inscrip- tion " Road to Albany," while on the opposite corner, on the house which has been replaced first by the American Museum, and since b)' The New York Herald building, a similar board pointed the tra\ellcr the " Road to Boston," through Chatham street, A\hich ran as far as the Fresh Water, a street so called after the great I'^arl, who for so long stood first in the affection of the Colonies fn' his manly support of American rights and liberties. Thence the Boston Road ran through the Old Bowery lane to a point (present corner of Broadway and Twenty-third street) where it forked, and took the direction to King's Bridge, which it crossed. Beyonci lay the open space known as the Commons or Fields, and later as the City Park — a spot celebrated as the scene of many a public gathering during the colonial da)'s. Here was held the great popular meeting on the evening of Friday, the ist of November, 1765, which protested against the Stamp Act, burned the lieutenant-governor in effigy, and here also rallied the " prodigious concourse of people," as the journals of the day termed the armed multitude which, on the 5th of November, marched upon the fort and compelled the royal authorities to surrender the obnoxious instruments into the hands of the popular representative, the mayor of the city. On the western border of the Fields, opposite to what is now known as No. 252 Broadway, between Warren and Murray streets, and nearly opposite the latter, was planted the famous liberty pole about which many struggles took place be- tween the British soldier}^ and the people. The fourth pole was planted here on the 19th of March, 1767, and a flag flung to the winds with the motto of " King, Pitt, and Liberty," which was rr:aintained with many x'icissitudes until the l^ritish occupation. This was the rally-point of the Sons of Libert}', an organization originated in the Stamp Act period, and revived, in November, 1773, to prevent the landing of the tea from the ships of the Plast Lidia Company, which were announced as on the way ; this was also the scene 12 THE PARKS OF THE CITY. of the great popular rising known as the " Great Meet- ing in tlie Fields," on the 5th of July, 1774, at which the youthful Hamilton, then a student at King's College, is said to have made his first appearance in public life. When Washington occupied the city, a part of the troops were quartered on the Commons, and here the Declaration of Inde- pendence was proclaimed and read to the army on the 9th of July, 1776. Later, on the entry of the British, the liberty pole was cut down, and the Commons became a scene of im- prisonment and torture as the site of the new jail, the building now known as the Hall of Records. Above the line of the Commons, on the west side of Broad- way and north of Reade street, built upon the grounds of the old Ranelagh Garden, was the New York Hospital, extending from what is now known as Duane to W^orth street, and opposite to Pearl street, where was then a broad green. Upon this beautiful site a building was begun by private subscription, the corner-stone of which was laid by Governor Tryon in I773- It was hardly completed when in February, I775> it ^vas nearly destroyed by fire. During the war it was occupied in an unfinished condition as a military hospital by each army. Later completed, the New York Hospital was long a model of admirable curative art, but like other landmarks of the city, gave way in 1869 to the march of population, and has lost something of its old prestige. To the northward of the hospital grounds stood the Ranelagh House and Gardens, a summer resort. Beyond were farms and country residences, and to the westward the Church farm, the property of the already wealthy corporation of Trinity Church. The only other open space in the city proper which served as a park was the ancient Bowling Green, sometimes called the Royal Bowling Green. This little green, now hardly noticeable save as one of the few open spots which has been left for public uses in the lower part of the city, was in the days of Dutch rule one of the most conspicuous features of the town. It was then part of the spacious green in front of the fort, where a market was daily and fairs occasionally STATUES OF GEORGE TIT. AND WILLIAM PITT. 13 held ; here the Train bands made tlieir usual parade. In March, 1753, the corporation leased the ground to some of the inhabitants of Broadway, "to be enclosed as a Bowline Green, with walks therein for the beauty and ornament of the street," and it has since been known by this name. In the centre of this green, on a A\'hite marble pedestal fifteen feet high, stood the equestrian statue of George III., erected by the Assembly, Thursday, the i6th of Sep- tember, 1770, the anniversary of the birtluku' of Prince PVederick, second child of George III. This statue is described as made of metal, richh' gilt, and the workman- ship of the celebrated statuar}^ Mr. Wilton, of London. The same artist made a statue of George III. for the Royal Exchange of London. The erection in the Bowling Green was the occasion of a grand public display, the members of the Colonial and City Governments, the Corporations of the Chamber of Commerce and Marine Society, and the officers of the army and na\y, waiting upon the Lieuten- ant-Governor at the fort near by, where toasts were drunk to the accompaniment of military music and artillery. To pro- tect it the corporation in 1771 built an iron railing aroimd the green at a cost of /J'800. The statue stood upon the green in all its gilded glory, the object of lo}'al admiration and patriot contumely until the evening of the 9th of Jul)% 1776, when, after the hearing of the Proclamation of Independence, it was overthrown by the soldiery, an act of \'andaiism for which they received the rebuke of Gen. Washington in general orders the next morning. This was another instance of that disposition for destruction which unfortunately is not confined to the excited populace, but is shared by delibera- tive bodies. But too often the first act of a new order of government is the overthrow and ruin of even the artistic emblems of the old. The mutilated statue, the material of which was lead, is said to ha\'e been taken to Litchfield, Conn., and run into bullets for the use of the American army. Fragments of it still exist, one in the possession of this Society, and a bullet-mould to which a similar romantic story is attach- ed. The slab on which the statue rested was taken to Powles 14 STATUES OF GEORGE III. AND WILLIAM PITT. Hook in 1783, and was used as a memorial stone for the grave of Major John Smith, of the 42d Highland regiment. Later it served as a door-step for the residence of Mr. Cor- nelius Van Vorst in Jersey City, and has now a resting-place in the vestibule of this Society. The marks of the hoofs are still visible. The pedestal remained for some years in its original position, but was removed when the green was re- modelled. It is to be regretted that there is no discrimi- nation in these acts of barbarism. No complaint would be made by the present generation if some modern iconoclasts should destroy the hideous objects which now disgrace our .public places, and are even invading the National capital, proli pudor, in the name of art. At the intersection of Wall and Smith (now William street) stood the pedestrian statue erected to William Pitt " for the services he rendered America in promoting the repeal of the Stamp Act " — a peaceful victory as dear to the Colonies as ever conquest celebrated by triumphal pageant or memorial arches in the streets of ancient Rome. The statue is de- scribed in the journals of the day as of " fine white marble, the habit Roman, the right hand holds a scroll partly open, whereupon we read, Articuli Magna-Charta Libertatum ; the left hand is extended, the figure being in the attitude of one delivering an oration." On the south side of the pedestal there was a Latin inscription, cut on a tablet of white marble. This statue (like that of George HL, the workmanship of Wilton) was erected on the /th September, 1770, by the Assembly of the Colony, " amid the acclamations of a great number of the inhabitants, and in compliance with a request of a public meeting of the citizens held 23d June, 1766," Avhen the news of the repeal of the Stamp Act reached the city. This statue stood in its original position until 1787, when it was removed by city ordinance on the " petition of a major- ity of the Proprietors of the Lots of Ground in Wall street, as an obstruction to the cit}-." It was then a deformity, hav- ing been beheaded and otherwise disfigured in 1776, during the British occupation. It lay for many years in the corpo- ration yard, then in that of the arsenal, after which it stood THE PUBLIC BUILDINGS. I 5 for a long period in front of Riley's Museum, or Fifth Ward Hotel, corner of West Broadway and Franklin street. It was later purchased b}' Mr. Samuel ¥. Mackie, one of our members, and b)- him presented to this Socict)-, in the refec- tory of which it may now be seen. It is hoped that some liberal member will restore it to its original beaut}', as its counterpart, which may serve as a model, is still in existence in Charleston. The ground in front of the Trinity Cemetery was at this time, and for many years after the Revolution, the fashion- able promenade, and was known as the " Church Walk," and the Mall. During the war seats were arranged for the public, and music was given every evening by military bands, while the army officers and such city belles as " lox-ed the military" paraded up and down in pleasant discourse. In the present day, when the rights of the sexes are matters of discussion by the indignant of both in the public prints, it is amusing to notice a protest from a British officer in The Royal Gazette, 1780, against the " want of politeness and decorum in the masculine gender " in monopolizing the seats in the Mall. He remarks, with sense and sensibility, in the elegant language of the day, " that this must be very dis- agreeable to the fair sex in general, whose tender, delicate limbs may be tired with the fatigue of walkincr and bein<r denied a seat to rest them." The Central Park to-day repeats in its broad and beautiful Mall and adjacent music- stand these features of the life of the city a century ago. The public buildings were not striking either for size or beaut}-. The City Hall, which stood at the head of Broad street, where the elegant white marble structin-e occupied by the United States Treasury Department noAv stands, was a three-storv' brick building with wings. The ground floor was open as a thoroughfare. The site of the building was laid in the }^ear 1700, on a bastion and line of stone fortifica- tions which extended across the northern boundary of the cit}^ from, the East to the Hudson River, whence the name of Wall street is derived. First occupied b}- the Common Council in 1703, the edifice was for a long time the most lb THE PUBLIC BUILDINGS. magnificent in the city, and was frequently improved and embellished until the Revolutionary War. While in posses- sion of the British it was occupied by the main guard, and, escaping the ravages of the enemy, remained entire, although much injured, until the evacuation in 1783. The Legislature of the State and the courts met here after the war. The city bell was here. A curious notice in The New York Packet of 1784 warned the inhabitants " not to be alarmed by the ringing of the court bell;" and informed them that "the said bell will be rung daily, at a quarter before ten o'clock in the forenoon, for the meeting of the Legislature," and other papers were requested to copy. It was renovated in 1784, and extensive additions made in the rear, for the use of the Congress, which had adjourned to New York from Philadel- phia ; in the spring of 1789 the first Congress under the new Constitution met in the new edifice, which took the name of Federal Hall ; and here it was that on the 3d of April. 1789, George Washington was inaugurated the first President. The building was demolished in 18 12. The Exchange, at one time called the Royal Exchange, at the foot of Broad street, below the intersection of Dock (now Pearl street), was a building raised upon arches in the middle of the street. Built upon or near the site of a struc- ture which had served as a market-house as well as meeting- place of merchants, from the beginning of the century, it was sometimes called the New Exchange. A subscription was made by the merchants, in 1752, for its erection, but it was assumed and finally completed by the city corporation. At times its lower arch-covered surface seems to have been inclos- ed. Above the arches was a large hall sixty feet by thirty, with walls fourteen feet high, arching to a height of twenty feet, surmounted by a cupola. It was provided with a stove, then a modern invention, and a clock. In 1754, the lower story was used as a coffee-house, and the room above as a ball- room. The Chamber of Commerce hired and repaired it in 1769, and occupied it until their sessions were interrupted by the breaking out of hostilities in 1775. During the war it was used by the British as a market. When the City Hall was I CHURCHES. 17 undergoing repairs after tlie peace, the State Legislature and courts of justice held their sessions here. In 1795 it passed into the hands of the Tamnian)' Society for use as a nuiscum, and was so used under the direction of the eccentric (lardner Baker. In 1799, in consequence of numerous complaints, the city authorities ordered it to be taken down and removed. At the time of its erection, the streets in its neighborhood had been greatly improved, and the commerce of the city for a few }-ears gathered about it, but it gradually lost its pres- tige from the nuisances which were allowed to accumulate about the water edge near by. Then, as now, the system of sewerage was a crying disgrace to the city, and the river banks had become intolerable nuisances. Comparing Eng- lish and x'\merican cities with those of Continental Europe, the thought forces itself upon the mind that the Anglo-Saxon race, neat as it may be in personal habits, has no special " vocation " for public cleanliness. At the south-west point of the island stood the Fort in a square with four bastions, facing the Bowling Green ; within it a building which was the residence of the colonial gover- nors until destroyed by fire in December, 1773. The Fort itself was removed in 1790, to make way for the Government House erected for the use of the State Government. Below the Fort, on the water line, were fortifications of considerable extent. A stone battery was laid here by Governor Cosby, in 1735, and called after his son-in-law, the " George Augus- tus Royal Battery." Hence the name of the Battery, which was before and for many years after the war, in the summer season, a delightful promenade, cooled by the sea breeze, and pre- senting a bay view unparalleled in beauty and extent. It is not improbable that this charming spot may again become a favorite residence. The other public buildings were the new jail called the " Provost " during the war, and " The Bride- well," both in the fields now the City Park. Of the three Episcopal churches founded under one ro}-al charter in 1697, Old Trinity, the most stately edifice in America, had fallen a victim to the terrible fire Avhich swept the city after the British entry in 1776. St. George's Chapel, 1 8 CHURCHES. finished in 1750, stood in Beekman street. It was destroyed by fire in 18 14, again rebuilt, and finally taken down in 1868. St. Paul's Chapel, on the corner of Broadway and Vesey street, completed in 1766, is the finest relic of colonial archi- tecture, and for beauty of design is not excelled by any later structures. Its elegant and graceful spire was added in 1794. There were three houses of worship belonging to the Pres- byterians. The First Presbyterian, or Wall Street Church, a modest building of rough stone, stood at the upper end of Wall street, near Broadway. It was originally erected in 1719, enlarged in 1768, rebuilt in 1809, and finally removed in 1844, and reconstructed in Jersey City. The second or Brick Meeting-house, a branch of the Wall Street Church, was built, in 1768, on the Vineyard lot opposite the Common, rebuilt in i797j ^^'^^^ "^''^is demolished in consequence of the widening of Beekman street. The present New York Times building occupies its site. The last service was held here in May, 1856. This was for a long time, with the exception of a few small wooden houses, the only building on Chatham row. The third or Second Presbyterian church was built in 1768, in Little Queen (now Cedar street), between Nassau and Broadway. This congregation originated about the year 1756? ii"! a separation of the Scottish members from the Wall Street Church, in consequence of changes in the form of worship and a difference of opinion as to psalmody. All these three churches were occupied by the British troops as hospitals and barracks, and were left behind them in ruins and dilapidation. There w'ere three Dutch Reformed churches. The Old South, or Garden Street Church, which stood in the present Exchange place, was built in 1693, rebuilt in 1766, again in 1807, and was destroyed by the great fire in 1835. The New or Middle Church, built in 1729. and remodelled in 1764, still remains. From its cupola one of the best views of the city and surrounding country was to be seen. It was here that Dr. Franklin made some of his experiments in electri- city. Indeed the only steeples high enough to be seen to CHURCIIKS. 19 advantage, after the destruction of Trinity, were those of this cluirch and St. George's Chapel. During the occupation it was used Iw the Britisli as a riding scliool for dragoons. Pubhc worship ceased in it in 1S44, when it \\\as sold to the United States Government, the merchants of New York con- tributing to its purchase by subscription, for the use of the Post-Office Department. It has been this fall abandoned, and is now being demolished. The North Dutch Church was erected in 1769, on the corner of Fulton and William streets, remodelled in 1842, and has been this year taken down. It had become famous, in latter years, as the seat of the Ful- ton street prayer-meetings. The Methodists erected a church in John street in 1768, which is still standing on the south side of the street, near Nassau. The Moravians began their worship in a small frame building which they put up in Fulton street, between William and Dutch streets, in 175 i. The old house was taken down and rebuilt in 1829, and finally removed in 1843. The Bap- tists had their place of worship in Gold street, between Fulton and John streets, in a small building erected by them in 1760. It was rebuilt in 1802, and finally taken down in 1840. The Friends, who had occupied a modest structure in Little Green street (now Liberty place), a small street running from Maiden lane to Crown (now Liberty street), from the early part of the century, in 1775 built a second house of brick in Pearl street, between Franklin square and Oak street, which was taken down in 1824. In 1794 the old building was destroyed and a new one erected, fronting on Liberty street. This continued to be used as a meeting-house until 1826, when it passed into the hands of Mr. Grant Thorburn, who occupied it as a seed store for many years. The French congregation, L'Eglise du Saint Esprit (Church of the Holy Ghost), which had existed from an early day, in 1 704 erected a building, which was long the oldest of the New York churches, in Pine street, fronting the rear of the present United States Sub-Treasury, with a burial ground running back as far as Cedar street. Here the descendants of the French Huguenots continued their worship, according to the tenets of the old faith, for 130 years. The 't3 2 20 EDUCATION AND ART. building was "low, grave and sombre, and its tower heavy and monastic." The Jewish house of worship was built in Mill street, about 1706. This was taken down, and the first Synagogue erected on the same site in 1729. This building, in turn, was rebuilt in 18 18, and occupied till 1833, when the property was sold, and the congregation removed. The first Roman Catholic public worship was held at the Vaux Hall, at the foot of Warren street ; this was the origin of St. Peter's Church in Barclay street, built in 1786. The corner-stone was laid by the Spanish ambassador, Don Diego de Gardoqui, and the building fund contributed to by both the Spanish and French official representatives. It was later rebuilt. Education had not as yet been considered a matter for legis- lative interference. It was held, indeed, to be a matter with which the Government had no right to interfere, and was chiefly in the hands of the clergy. Early in the history of the Dutch colony teaching in Latin had been fostered by the Government. In 17 10 the first free school was opened by Trinity Church, under the teaching of William Huddlestone. In 1754 King's College was established, and a year later the Dutch, tenacious of their old language, imported a school- master for instruction in the Dutch language. During the seven years of war these schools and the college were closed. The first to reopen was the Dutch, many months before the evacuation by the British. King's College (now Columbia) occupied the beautiful square, well remembered, bounded by Church, Chapel (now West Broadway), Murray and Mortlike (now Barclay street). This was an elegant stone structure three stories high, with a chapel, hall, library, museum, ana- tomical theatre, and school for experimental philosophy. The edifice was surrounded by a high fence, which also inclosed a large court and garden. The students resided in the build- ing. The fire of 1776 burned all the houses west of Broad- way up to this limit. There were no public collections of art in the city before 1800; a few occasional portraits, but of a low order of merit. An example may be seen in the portrait of Lieut. -Gov. Cad- wallader Golden, painted for the Chamber of Commerce by EDUCATION AND ART. 21 Matthew Pratt, a picture 4^)x78, for wliich the artist received £37 ■ In the year 1791, ^Ir. Archibald Roliertson, an artist, or- ganized " The Cohimbian Academy of Painting," but this was a private institution. In 1801, the American Academy of Fine Arts was organized under the ad\ice of Robert R. Liv- ingston, then Minister to France, with the active co-operation of Aaron Burr. It opened its rooms with numerous donations, prominent among which were several gifts from the Emperor Napoleon, and in 1808 was incc^rporated, with ICdward Liv- ingston as President. It ceased to exist in 1841, and its \-alu- able collection is scattered. The theatre was on the north side of John street, about half- way between Broadway and Nassau street. The building stood, as described by Mr. Duer, about sixty feet back from the street, and was entered by a covered way. It was opened on the 7th of December, 1767, by " The American Company," with Farquhar's comedy of the " Stratagem," and Garrick's farce or dramatic satire, '' Lethe." A curious incident is con- nected with the histor}' of the theatre at this period. Some Cherokee warriors arrived in the cit}' from South Carolina with Capt. Schermerhorne, among whom were Attakullakulla, or the Little Carpenter; Ocounostola, or the Great Warrior; and the Ra\'en King of Tougooloo, wlio expressed a desire to see the performance of the 14th, which was the play of Richard III., not the most appropriate entertainment, certainl}', for the instruction of savage chiefs. Attakullakulla was a noted Cherokee chief. Lie had visited England and signed the treaty of peace at Westminster, in 1 730. The general de- pression which resulted from the sullen but as }'et peaceful struggle of the colonics with the home Government, brought theatrical exhibitions to a close, and no entertainments were given after Aug. 2, 1773. On the 24th of December, 1774, the Provincial Congress passed a resolution recommending the suspension of all public amusements, and no further perform- ances w^ere given. When the British held the city, amateurs re- opened the John Street Theatre under the name of " Theatre Royal," and plays were given from January, 1777, to June, 22 TAVERNS, MEAD-HOUSES, ETC. 1 78 1, the receipts being for the benefit of the poor of the city. It was here that the accomphshed and unfortunate Major An- dre distinguished himself both as an actor and scene painter. After the peace, in spite of strong pubhc sentiment, which took shape in articles in the newspapers and speeches in the Legis- lature, the theatre was reopened on the 24th of August, 1785, with a prologue and pantomime, which continued until Oct. 14 of the same year. The legitimate drama was not resumed till the 2 1st of November, 1785. The last performance in the John Street Theatre was " Wives As They Were and Maids As They Are," on the 12th of January, 1798. The New, or Park Theatre, which stood in Park row, near Ann street, was opened on the 29th of January of the same year. The principal tavern was the City Arms, a large house on the west side of Broadway, at the corner of Stone, now Thames street. This famous house was a part of the Delancey estate, and until 1754 was the residence of James De Lancey, the Lieutenant-Governor of the colony. On the 15th April of that year it was opened as a tavern by Ed- ward Willet, a noted host, under the name of the Province Arms. In the newspapers of the day it is sometimes called the New York Arms, the York Arms, the City Arms, or, as was often the case, by the name of the proprietor. Willet's opening notice describes the house "as not only the best accommodated with stables and all things necessary to the entertainment of travellers, but the best situated of any house in that business in this city, being nearest the centre ; and in a direct line with the eastern road, and very handy for both the North River, Staten Island, and Long Island Ferries." The New York tavern-keepers were in the colonial days an itinerant class, and moved from house to house with the reg- ularity of lawyers on a circuit. Crawley, Burns, Bolton, and Hull all kept it in turn. It was here, while in the keeping of Burns, that the famous non-importation agreement was signed the 31st October, 1765, by the merchants of the city. Burns succeeded Crawley in 1763. John Adams, delegate to the first Continental Congress, stopped here on his way to Phila- delphia in 1774. During the earlier part of the war it was kept TAVERNS, MEAD-IIOUSKS, KTC. 23 by Hicks, who seems to have been displaced in an arbitrary manner in 1781, to make way for Roubalet. It was a favorite resort of the miHtary, on account of its proximity to the fashionable promenade. On its piazzas and balconies were "coigns of vantage" for the review of the loj-alist belles " walking down Broadway." Later it passed into the hands of John Cape, and was called the " State Arms of New York" (No. 18 Broadway), in his advertisements of May 31, 1784. The house was provided with a large ball-room, where concerts were given and dancing assemblies held. These assemblies were subscription balls under the direction of managers. They were renewed immediately after the war. The first was held on the evening of Thursday, the 1 8th of December, 1783, at 6 o'clock. Rivington, the editor of the newspaper which advertised this ball, announced in the same paper that he had " for sale a supply of white dancing gloves for gentlemen, silk stockings, dress-swords, and elegant Lon- don cocked hats." As he was a loyalist, this was probably the stock of the outgoing officers. of the British army. Cape does not appear to have met with success in his venture. In 1786 Joseph Corre, a Frenchman by birth, took the house, and in 1788 he, in turn, made way for the veteran Edward Barden, who had returned to the city from Jamaica. Long Island, where he kept the inn opposite the Episcopal Church. Broadway was already the favorite street, and the old tavern became the chosen spot for the meetings of societies and great public entertainments, and acquired a popularity which it uninterruptedly maintained for a long period. In 1793 tlie old building, which was still owned by the De Lanccy family, was taken down, and the Tontine City Tavern or City Hotel, erected by a company who organized for its purchase on the Tontine plan. The City Hotel has been taken down within our recollection. There was another tavern largely patronized by the offi- cers of the British arm}' and navy, on Brownejohn's Wharf, at the Fly Market, as it was called. This was kept by James Strachan until 1781, when he changed his quarters. Not far distant, in Water street, Ephraim Smith kept a house known 24 TAVERNS, MEAD-HOUSES, ETC. by his name — Smith's Tavern. lie had previously kept a tavern under the same sign in Philadelphia. The Bull's Head was in the Bowery lane. But of all, the most famous for its historic associations was the house on the south-east corner of Broad and Dock (now Pearl street), which is still standing". It was built in the early part of the last century, by the De Lancey famil}-, on land conveyed by Col. Stephanus Van Cortlandt to Esticnne de Lancey, his son-in-law, in 1 700. It was for some time occupied as a residence by Col. Joseph Robinson ; then by Delancey, Robinson & Co. as a store, and later passed by sale into the hands of Sam Fraunces, the most noted publican of the day (later the steward of General Washington's household), who here opened a tavern in 1762, under the sign of Queen Charlotte. This was in honor of the charming and popular queen of George III., who had already, although only in her eighteenth year, earned the name of " The Good Queen Charlotte." A record of the interesting incidents connected with this old house would fill a volume. The Chamber of Commerce organized here in 1768 ; the clubs and societies often met at its hospitable board. This was the building which was struck by the shot upon the city by the " Asia " man-of-war, but it is most dear to the heart of the patriot as the spot where, at a dinner given to him on the 4th of December, 1783, Gen. Washington bade a touching and affectionate farewell to his officers. Before the war it was known as the Queen's Head ; later, as Fraunces's Tavern. It is now kept as a lodging-house by W. Stiibner, under the sign of Washington's Headquar- ters, in memory of the incident related. On the new road, a continuation of Broadway, there were several mead-houses and tea-gardens, and opposite the Park, where Peak's Museum stood later, was the celebrated garden and public house of de la Montague, where the Liberty Boys had their rendezvous. The Liberty Pole was near by. The Vauxhall was a large garden at the foot of War- ren street, extending as far as Chambers street, overlooking the Hudson, and commanding a beautiful view. This had been the residence of Major James of Stamp Act memory, COFFEE-HOUSES. 25 and had later passed into the hands of the cnterprisincj Fraunces. Besides these, there were bilHard tables at de la Mon- tagne's, in the fields, and near by Walker's Fives Alley, about the corner of Murray street, where Sir Henry Clinton was wont to play with his officers. There was also a Fives alley in John street, near the theatre. In summer the ladies visited the tea-gardens, but then, as now, the men at times preferred to enjoy themselves without the restraining influence of the fair sex. Before the war, coffee-houses, kept on the English plan, were places of great resort. A notice of a Coffee-House appears on the Assembly Journal of 1705, and occasional mentions of it occur until 1/37, ^vhen the Exchange Cofifee-House is noticed in an advertisement in Bradford's Gazette. A few years later {1744) one appears of " The Merchants' Cofifee-House," which stood on the south-east corner of Wall and Water streets, on the site later occupied by The Journal of Commerce. Cofifee- House slip and Cofifee-House bridge, which occupied the cen- tre of Wall street, running from Queen (now Pearl) to Water street, derived their names from their proximity to this Cofifee- House. The Bridge was the place where the " vendues," as auctions were then called, were held. A notice in Parker's Post Boy of August 27, 1744, shows that this was the favorite resort of captains. It was for a long time kept by a Madame Ferrari, until a new building was erected on the opposite cross corner, when she removed to the new house. John Adams, recording his walk about the city in 1774, men- tions a visit to the coffee-house, which he found full of gentlemen, and his reading of the newspapers there ; but for some cause coffee-houses gradually decHned toward the close of the colonial period, probably because of the depres- sion in trade and general want of ease in the fortunes of the population, as the next year a long article appeared in Holt's i^ew York Journal calling on the inhabitants to support these useful institutions, and complaining that those who did take adx-antage of their many conveniences, did not, as was the custom in England, do their part to the support of the 26 COFFEE-HOUSES. house by ordering a cup of coffee, a glass of wine, etc. Cor- nelius Bradford opened the Merchants' Coffee-House after repairs in May, 1776, but his stay was of short duration. A warm patriot, he Avent out with the American army on its re- treat, and remained near Rhinebeck during the war. It then passed into the hands of a Mrs. Smith, probably the person who kept the building next door, where the Insurance Office was. Later, James Strachan moved from the tavern on Brownejohn's wharf, and tried his fortune here, but without success, as appears from a piteous appeal to his debtors, March, 1783. In October of the same year, Cornelius Bradford re- turned, and the Merchants' Coffee-House under his admirable management became a noted resort. He established in 1784 the first Marine List ever publicly kept in New York, from which the newspaper notices were daily taken. He also opened a register where " gentlemen and merchants " were requested to enter their names and residences. This was the first approach to a city directory. The first directory was published by David Franks, in 1786, and contained the names and addresses of 933 persons. Trow's City Directory for 1875 contains 233,971 names. It must be observed, how- ever, that the first of Franks was very incomplete. The Chamber of Commerce and the Marine Society entertained Congress at the Merchants' Coffee-House in February, 1784, Bradford died the next year, but the house remained in the keeping of his widow for some years, until the building of the famous Tontine Coffee-House, on the northwest corner of Wall and Water streets (the opposite cross angle), when the widow withdrew. The Merchants' Coffee-House was de- stroyed in the great fire of 1804, and rebuilt as the Phoenix Coffee-FIouse the next year. The Tontine was projected on the 30th of March, 1791, by an assemblage of gentlemen who met at the Coffee-House, with John Broome, at that time President of the Chamber of Commerce, as chairman. The corner-stone was laid with ceremony on the 5th of June, 1792, and the building formally opened by a great public dinner, at which 120 gentlemen sat down, the 5th of June, the following year (1793). The Tontine became celebrated RESIDENCES— SUGAR-HOUSES. 2/ under the management of John Ilyde, its first host. A letter on emigration, pubhshed in London by a " gentleman lately returned from America," recommends the house as havin"- " as elegant accommodations as an\'in London," and as con- sidered to be the best in the United States. He states the cost of living in a handsome apartment at £'jo to £^o per annum, wine and porter excepted, and speaks of it as fre- quented by all genteel strangers and the superior gentlemen of the town. Hyde died of the yellow fever in 1805. Dur- ing the war a Mrs. Treville kept the London Coffee-I louse at the Exchange. Of the two private houses of note, the chief was the Ken- nedy Mansion, at No. i Broadway, built for Capt. Archibald Kennedy of the British Navy, who had married a daughter of the wealthy colonial famil}' of Watts. This house was the headquarters of Gen. Putnam in 1776, and afterward of the British commanders. The other famous dwelling was the Walton House, an edifice of Holland brick, 50 feet front, and three stories high, still standing, though shorn of its architec- tural ornaments, and known as No. 324 Pearl street. This old house was illuminated for the repeal of the Stamp Act in 1766. Of the four sugar-houses three were in the hands of persons of Dutch descent, by whom this lucrative business was then as now almost monopolized. The old sugar-house in Crown street (now Liberty street, near the Dutch church), built by the Livingstons, is best known as the British prison during the Revolution. That built by Henry Cuyler, Jr., for his heir, Barent Rynders Cuyler, in 1769, is still standing, a mas- sive structure on the corner of Rose and Duane streets. It later passed into the hands of the Rhinelanders, who contin- ued the same business. The Van Cortland sugar-house was on the north-west corner of Trinity churchyard. The Roose- velts also had a sugar-house, in Skinners street, near the Walton House. The Beiyard sugar house, which stood in Wall street, close to the old City Hall, from 1729, had been in 1773 turned into a tobacco manufactory. The Bayards introduced what they termed the " mystery of sugar refin- ing " in New York. s^ 28 THE WATER SUPPLY. Water was supplied to the inhabitants from the Tea Water Pump. Kahii, in his account of New York in 1748, says: " There is no good water to be met with in the town itself, but at a little distance there is a large spring of good water which the inhabitants take for their tea and the uses of their kitchen :" hence the name which the spring and pump long retained. The Tea Waterworks, as they were called, stood in the Out Ward, on a lot 75 by 120, which made, in 17S4, part of the estate of Gcrardus Hardenbrook. This lot fronted on the Bowery road, at what was then the head of Queen (now Pearl street), now the west side of Chatham, nearly op- posite Roosevelt street. It was said to receive its supply of water from never-failing springs, but in reality drew it from a pond not far distant, known as the Cohect Pond or Fresh Water, which lay where the present Tombs building stands in Centre street. This pond had an outlet on the North river, through Vv^hat was called the Canal, over which a stone bridge was erected on the line of Broadway, and another on that to the East river. The Collect was unfortunately filled up by the authorities of the city instead of being enlarged and made a water communication between the two rivers, a plan at one time proposed, which would have afforded ex- cellent basin accommodation for river transports, and a safe winter harbor. Nature seems to have indicated this in her original design. The water still runs through the Canal street sewer. The well which supplied the famous Tea Water Pump was about twenty feet deep and four feet in diameter, and supplied an average daily drawing of from 14,000 to 15,000 gallons. In summer sometimes as many as 28,000 gallons were taken, yet the depth of water never fell below three feet. The water was sold at the pump at three pence the hogshead. In 1796 there was a rumor that the supply of water was failing, but it was immediately contradicted by the proprietor. At this time the water was sold at the pump at four cents the hogshead of 140 gallons. The water was carted through the streets and retailed from door to door. Two years later its reputation became bad, the Collect was reported as being " a shocking hole, where all impure things 'rili; WATER SUPPLY. 29 centre tog-ether." An article in 'J'he Daily Advertiser of September 6th, 1798, urged the citizens, "every man for himself, to leave no stone unturned to provide aqueducts." As early as 1774 Christopher Colles, with his usual saga- cit}', had proposed to erect a reser\-oir and to convey water through the several streets, and with the aid of the corpora- tion erected a steam pumping engine near the Collect, but the war caused an abandonment of this plan. Tliis enterprise was completed in March, 1776. The newspapers describe the engine as carrying a pump eleven inches in diameter and six feet stroke, which lifted 417,600 gallons dail\-. There is a curious notice of these works in the journal of Dr. Isaac Bangs of the New England troops, who was quartered in the cit}' in 1776. He describes the works as consisting of a reser- voir on the top of a hill, from which wooden pipes distributed it through the city (the reservoir a quarter of an acre in extent)- His astonishment was excited by the working of the machine which lifted the water through a wooden tube. With his native curiosity, however, he mastered the problem and gives a lucid description of the steam-engine. In 1799 the Manhat- tan Company was chartered to supply the city with water, and the Bronx river was proposed as the source of supply. ^\ pump was built near the Collect and wooden pipes laid through the streets, and the inhabitants served with water for a long period. It w^as not until the completion, in 1842, oi the Croton Aqueduct, that colossal and beneficent monument of New York enterprise, that there was assured to the pop- ulation a never-failing supply of pure water, the first condi- tion of prosperity and health, an enterprise so eloquently and prophetically described by the late John Romeyn Brodhead at the fortieth anniversary of this Society in 1844 — "the stern and majestic ruins that frown over the desolate Cam- pagna are not more impressive monuments to the Emperor Claudius than will the aqueduct of New York be an enduring memorial of the far-reaching philanthropy of those who pro- jected and advocated this noble work." Even before the Revolution the cit}- provided itself with the purely American luxury, ice, the use of which is only at 30 MARKETS— CEMETERIES. this late day becoming general in Europe by the example of American travellers. There were several ice-houses, all of which took their supply from the fresh water. The prin- cipal of these buildings was situated on the North River, near Trinity Churchyard. The principal market was the Fly Market, so called from Vly, or valley, its site having been originally a salt meadow. It stood at the foot of Maiden lane, and was supplied, as New York has always been, with an endless variety of fish and shell-fish of the most delicious kind, and with meat, poultry and fruit — the latter in abundant profusion. The other markets of importance were the Bear Market, now Washington, on the west side of the city, between Green- wich street and the Hudson ; the Oswego Market, which was built on the site of the old Broadway, in 1771, and stood in Maiden lane, between Broadway and Nassau street, until removed as a nuisance in 18 10, when its stalls were trans- ferred to the Bear Market. There was also a market at Peck slip, built in 1763, occupied as a storehouse by the British, again restored after the war, deserted when Catharine Market Avas built, in 1786, and finally removed in 1792. Still another was opened at the foot of Broad street, at the Exchange, on the petition of the inhabitants during the war, there being no other convenient to the population in this locality. Besides the Trinity Church Cemetery, which was the city burying ground from an early period, and the graveyards attached to the churches, there was a Jewish cemetery at the corner of Oliver and Chatham streets, and a negro burying- ground on the spot immediately north of the common now occupied by A. T. Stewart's dry-goods store. Bradford's New York Gazette and Zenger's New York Weekly Journal^ the one the organ of the Colonial Govern- ment, and the other of the Opposition party, make frequent mention of a club named the Hunc Over De, which met a.t the houses of four gentlemen, where lively discussions seem to have taken place. A letter of one Andrew Merrill to Zenger says, that " the members were merry enough ; but they had like to have demolished the ladies' tea-table at whose CLUBS POLITICAL AND SOCIAL. 3 1 house the chib was. They had not much party till supper came, and then they were as warm as scollopt oysters." Politics ran high at this time, 1735-173^, when Colonel IvCwis ]\Iorris, afterward Governor of New Jersey, and James De Lancey, later Lieutenant-Governor of New York, were struggling for the control of the province of New York. A Whig Club was formed in 1752, which met once each week at the King's Arms Tavern. Of this William Living- ston, William Smith and John Morin Scott, the Presbyterian leaders, were members, and as they were not of the order of men who consent to take secondary places, no doubt the founders. The King's Arms Tavern was at this time in Broad street, opposite to the Royal Exchange, and kept by George Burns. Before the war the Social Club met every Saturday even- ing in winter at Sam P'raunces' Tavern, and enjoyed them- selves after the usual manner. Li svmimer the members met at Kip's Bay, where they built a neat and comfortable house. It was at this point the British landed, September 15, 1776. The club dispersed at the time of the war, and never reas- sembled. An account of the club and a list of its members were found among the papers of Mr. John Moore, and pre- sented to the New York Historical Society by his son, T. W. C. Moore. Among its members were John Jay, Gouver- neur Morris, Robert R. Livingston, Egbert Benson, Gulian C. Verplanck, Morgan Lewis, the Ludlows, Watts, Lispen- ards, Bards and others. The lawyers had a club which they called the Moot, organized in 1770, where disputed points of law were formally debated. Such veteran lawyers as Wil- liam Smith, John Morin Scott, Richard Morris, and among the younger, Samuel Jones, John Jay, R. R. Livingston, James Duane, Gouverneur Morris, and Peter Van Schaack, need only be named to show the character of the society. The Moot was held at Barden's Tavern, on the evening of the first Friday in every month. Barden's Tavern was in 1770 at the corner of Murray and Broadway. After the war the Belvedere was organized by thirty-three gentlemen, and a building erected on the corner of Cherry and 32 CLUBS POLITICAL AND SOCIAL. Montgomery streets, in the }'car 1792. The club building com- prised a ball-room with a music gallery, bar-rooms, and bed- rooms, and had a large balcony from which there was a beauti- ful view of the East River and Long Island. Attached to the house were bowling-alleys, coach-houses, a green, with gravel walks and shrubbery, elegantly laid out and cared for. This was a celebrated club, and included such members as Bab- cock, Constable, Fish, McEvers, Kemble, Ludlow, Seton, Hoffman and Van Hornc — all leaders of fashion and the beaux of the day. They met on Saturday nights, also evenings specially set apart for social gatherings, and the strangers in the city were generally invited guests. The Sub-Rosa was another club of thirty gentlemen, who met on Saturday evenings at a tavern kept by Rebecca Gere, at Corlears Hook. This dame bore the sobriquet in the club of " Our Hostess of the Garter." This club, organized in 1794, was essentially a dining club ; no cards were allowed by the articles until two hours after dinner, and no discussions dur- ing or after dinner. Such men as Robert Lenox, Thomas Roach, Buchanan, Bayard, Winthrop, Henry Cruger, Wal- ton, Gouverneur, Sherbrooke, and Laight composed this solid band of good livers. The minutes of their proceedings show that the proposal of an unfortunate member, that the bill of fare consist of cold beef or lamb, was voted down by the conclusive majority of eleven to three. New York had always been celebrated for the elegance of its life. When, in Parliament, the poverty and exhaustion of the colonies after the French war was given as a reason why they should not be taxed, the " plea was rebutted b)- an appeal to the elegant entertainments given by the city of New York to the officers of the British army, and the daz- zling display of silver plate at their dinners, equal, if not superior, to any nobleman's." John Adams, in his diary, constantly refers in terms of wonder to the luxury of life in the city, to the plate, the damask, and the choice luxury of the food. Even the butter did not escape his notice and his praise. He complains, however, that the gentlemen did not wait for him to finish his sentences before interrupting him SOCIETIES. 2,3 with their remarks. The New Yorkers were then, as now, a mercurial people, a quality they derived from the large intermixture of foreign element in their blood, and perhaps John Adams was himself a little prosy and pompous. New England has always been declamatory. Of the numerous foreign National Societies now in exist- ence, only one was incorporated in the Ccjlonial period, that of St. Andrew, which was instituted on the 19th November, 1756, as a society for charitable purposes, with Philip Living- ston as president. The English, Welsh, and Irish born resi- dents were in the habit of meeting at Sam Fraunces', Bolton's, Barden's, or Burns's Taverns, on their Saints' days of St. George, St. David, St. Patrick, and contributions were then made for the poor of their naticmality. The St. George's Society was established in 1786 ; the St. Patrick's later. The St. Tammany Society, or Independent Order of Lib- erty, was first organized in 1789. It announced itself as "a National Society, consists of Americans born who fill all offices, and adopted Americans who are eligible to the hon- orary posts of warrior and hunter. It is founded on the true principles of patriotism, and has for its motives charity and brotherly love." ^In 1792 its members formed a Tontine association, under the name of the New York Tammanial Tontine Association, to expire in May, 1820, whose primary object \vas stated to be " the building of a hall, with a view to accommodate the Tammany Society ; " but so far as a build- ing was concerned the plan does not appear to have been suc- cessful. The Society was incorporated under the name of the " Society of Tammany, or Columbian Order," on the 9th April, 1805, for the purpose of affording relief to the indi- gent and distressed." It is needless to state how Avidely its practices have diverged from its original purpose, unless upon the principle that charity begins at home. The Black Friars was a society established for social, chari- table, and humane purposes, on the loth November, 1784. The Society of the Cincinnati was organized at the Canton- ment of the American Army on Hudson River, May lOth, ^7^2, by the officers of the Army of the Revolution, as a 34 COLONIAL COMMERCE. Society of Friends, with a provision that its future member- ship should be Hmited to tlieir male posterity. The New York branch organized the 5th July following, at New Wind- sor ; their annual meetings are always held in the city. Besides these societies may be mentioned the Society for the Manumission of Slaves, and protecting such of them as have been or may be liberated, organized in February, 1785, with John Jay as president and John Keese as secretary. Their articles of association were published in Loudon's New York Packet of 21st February, 1785. The General Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen was originally designed in 1784, and appeared before the Legislature in application for a char- ter in the following year, failing which it was formally insti- tuted on the 4th August, 1785. It obtained an act of incor- poration March 14, 1792, which was renewed in 18 10. This Society built the well known Mechanics' Hall, corner of Park place and Broadway,, and is still in existence. A Society for the Promotion of Useful Knowledge was formed, of which Georoe Clinton was President. This was a revival of the old New York Society, which was formed before the war for similar purposes. They met on the 13th July, 1785, at Cape's Tavern. The first directory of 1 786 makes mention also of a Gold and Silver Smiths' Society in existence in 1786, and of a Society of Peruke Makers and Hair Dressers, which met at Mr. Ketchum's, No. 22 Ann street, the same year. Hair- dressing, when perukes and queues were in fashion, was a business of importance. The physical, popular, and social features of New York, at the close of the colonial period, and during the war, have been presented. It only remains to give some account of the commerce of the city, to establish a basis for the comparison of New York as it was in 1776 with the New York of to-day. The preparation of flour for export had always been a chief industry of the city and colony. An old document in the English records of 1698 speaks of " grain as the staple com- moditie of the Province of New York," and adds that "the citizens had no sooner perceived that there were greater COI.nxiAI. COMMERCE. 35 quantities of wheat raised than could be consumed within tlie said Province but the\' contrived and invented the art of bolt- ing, by wliicli they converted the wheat into flour, and made it a manufacture, not only profitable to all the inhabitants of this Province, by the encouragement of tillage and naviga- tion, but likewise beneficial and commodious to all the planta- tions, and the improvement thereof is the true and only cause of the growth, strength and increase of buildings within the same, and of the riches, plenty of money, and rise of the value of lands in the other parts of the Province, and the livelihood of all the inhabitants of this city did chiefly depend thereon." The Minutes of the Common Council of 1692 record that the Supreme Court were of the opinion that the City of New York had the charter or privilege of bolting or packing flour. Gov. Andros prohibited the transportation of wheat " that the same might be improved by the inhabitants of this city in bolting it into flour, and to bake ' bisketts ' for, transporta- tion." Of this privilege New York was deprived by Act of Assembly in 1694. The writer complains that the City of New York, which had been called the granary of America, where never less than 40,000 or 50,000 bushels of wheat were in store, suffered greatly in consequence of this legislation, and the supply fell off to scarce 1 ,000 bushels, insufficient for the supply of the inhabitants. The sketch closes with the re- markable statement that of the 983 houses then in New York, 600 depended upon "bolting;" while in the three counties of Kings, Queens, and Ulster, there were not over 30 " bolters." Notwithstanding the careful attention paid by the Assembly of the Colony to the inspection of flour, as its minutes abundantly show, and in fact compulsory inspection was not abolished until 1843 (April 18), both Pennsylvania and Maryland had excelled New York in this product, and the superfine flour of their manufacture com- manded higher prices than that of New York. In 1768 New York exported 8o,ooo barrels of flour to the West Indies, and received in return rum, sugar, and molasses. Provisions also were exported to the Spanish Main, wheat, flour, Indian corn, and timber to Lisbon and Madeira — and before the Revolution 3 36 COLONIAL COMMERCE. the manufacture of pot and pearl ashes had become an im- portant industry. There was also a considerable export of flaxseed to Ireland, in return for which linens were received. In addition to these there had been from the earliest history of the Colony a large and profitable trade in peltry. All Northern and Western New York was a fur-yielding coun- try, and thousands of hunters traversed the great interior in pursuit of skins. The old seal of the Province itself gives evidence of the importance of the two great interests of the Colony, the beaver and flour-barrel being both borne upon the arms. The beavei figured upon the seal of New Amsterdam from 1654; the flour-barrel was added after the English conquest in 1686. The fur trade had declined after the capture of the Canadas, but was again to revive with the new-born sympathy of the Cana- dians, French, and Indian half-breeds for the Americans. Already young Astor, who arrived here in 1784, was travers- ing the wilderness and organizing the vast trade which was the foundation of the colossal fortune \\hich attracted univer- sal notice a few days since as it passed, quintupled in magni- tude, to a second generation, a fortune in itself the most remarkable witness of the growth of the city which alone has swelled it to its enormous magnitude. With the close of the war with France and Spain, in 1763, began the period of greatest commercial activity in the Colo- nies. In May of that year the lighthouse at Sandy Hook was lighted for the first time. The lucrative business of priva- teering, in which New York largel)' indulged whenever there was an occasion, and to which the rich galleons of Spain, heavy with the freight of the Indies, contributed many a prize, had of course fallen with the general peace. In the year 1773, the importations by New York from England reached the sum of ;!^53i,ooo, and her exports ;^529,ooo, the chief export business being, as has been shown, with the West Indies. In the year ended January 5, 1776, the customs books report among other exports from New York in 705 vessels, 104,357 barrels flour and 19,033 tierces and barrels bread, 700,689 bushels wheat, 66,045 Indian corn, POPULATION AND COMMERCE. 37 111,8-1-5 flaxseed, 99,949 casks of beef and pork, 3,057 casks of butter. Such were the conditions under which New York began her new career. It will not be possible to measure the gigantic strides of her progress in e\ery walk of life through the centur)', or give more than a faint sketch of the innumer- able details which fill its history. In the preceding an en- deav'or has been made to present New York as it was in 1776, and to show the changes caused by the war in its physical appearance. The returning patriots who left the city on the entrance of the British troops found it on their departure not only deserted, but, as Dunlap describes it, a mass of " black unsightly rubbish." The population of the city at this period (1783) cannot be acciu'ately ascertained. A great change was then occurring with the outgoing of the loyalists and the incoming of the patriot population, and the arrival of large numbers of new settlers who, attracted by the natural advantages of New York, proposed to make it their home ; among these many New Englanders, whose energy and enterprise contributed largely to its growth and prosperity. In 1768 the cit}- was estimated by Noah Webster, a competent authority, to con- tain 3,340 dwelling-houses and a population of 23,614 souls. This little cit}- was then the second in importance of the Western Continent — Philadelphia, the first, had at this period 40,000 — Boston, owing to her inferior situation and climate, had been alread)' outrun b\' her more fortunate rivals, and her population did not exceed 15,000. Baltimore followed with 14,000, and Charleston, which at one time had. ambition equal to any of her sisters, 10,000. New York had already begun to feel within her broad loins the throes of empire, and was looking forward to her magnificent destiny. Already it com manded the trade of the larger part of New Jersey, of Con- necticut, and part of Massachusetts, besides the vast interior country to which its imperial river gave it access, and the eye of enterprise was measuring the distances from sea and river to the interior lakes, over which connections might be made, to lock the whole in one grand system of internal com- 38 CURRENCY. munication which should open an avenue for the commerce of a continent. The road to the Canadian provinces and the great North-West was up the banks of the Hudson, and at its 'mouth lay the matchless land-locked harbor, safe anchor- age for fleets of untold magnitude. The mission of New York was commerce, and she early understood it. Phila- delphia had at this period outstripped her sister cities in manufacturing of all kinds, and New York seems never to have undertaken any serious rivalry in this branch of in- dustry. She recognized that commerce was her vocation. During the colonial period New York had always been extremely careful of her credit, and her issues of paper money were never in excess of the absolute demands of trade. The first issue was made in 1710, but no such bills were made a legal tender after 1737. Tater, when a new issue was consented to by Lieut. -Gov. Colden, in 1770, they were only made a tender at the Loan Offices and Treasury, a well-regulated sinking fund prevented depreciation, and New York bills were at par all over the country, and equal to silver. For some time after the war the currency was expressed in pounds sterling. Hamilton, in his famous report to Con- gress, January 28, 1791, on the establishment of a mint, says : "The pound,. though of various value, is the unit of the money account of all the States. But it is not equally easy to pronounce-what is to be considered as the unit in the coins, there being no formal regulation on this point." " But," he continues, " the manner of adjusting foreign ex- changes would . seem to indicate the dollar as best entitled to that character." Before the Revolution, the debasement of coin by clipping and washing had become a general and annoA'ing evil. As all the coins were foreign, and the Lyon dollar, introduced by the Dutch, was the only legal tender of coin in the Colony, the Provincial authorities had been powerless to remedy the evil ; the Lyon dollar, the value of which was fixed as early as 1720 as *' seventeen pennyweight for fifteen pennyweight of Sevil pillar or Mexican plate," having almost disappeared. The proclamation of the King, FOUNDING OF BANKS. 39 June 24, 1774, had directed the brcakhig up of all Rrilish coins which should reach the Treasury deficient in wei'dit • but this rather increased than abated the evil in the Colonies. The dollar was, therefore, only a money of account, and — like the marc banco of Hamburg— a fictitious symbol of value by which all others were measured. After the adoption of the State Constitution in 1777, but two laws were passed making bills of credit. The first, March 27, 1781, was for $41 1,250 to pay the proportion called for by Congress toward the expenses of the war. The bills of the Provincial Congress as well as the Continental bills were made a legal tender. The only other law passed making bills of credit was one of April 18, 1786, for ;^200,ooo, which pro- vided that they be received in all payments to the State Treasury, and limited their circulation to the year 1 800. On the 30th of March, 1780, an act was passed fixing the rates at which the Continental issues should be taken. ]^y the act it was declared that $146 of Continental issue of June I, 1778, was the equivalent of $100; $679 of the issue of Jan. I, 1779; $2,932 of the issue of Jan. i, 1780, and $4,000 of that of March 16, 1780, showing a depreciation in the value of the last issues to two and one half per centum of the face of the bill. In 1781 an act was passed repealing all laws making bills of credit a legal tender, and four years later all such bills in the Treasury were destroyed. Such were the sound principles upon which this mercantile com- munity began its career. During the Colonial period there was no such institution known as an incorporated bank. The Bank of North America, the first of this nature in the United States, origi- nated in the efforts of the merchants and citizens of Philadel- phia to supply the wants of the army in 1780, and the honor of its conception was due to the distinguished financier and patriot, Robert Morris. The bank was incorporated by an ordinance of Congress Dec. 24, 1 781, and by act of the Legis- lature of Pennsylvania April i, 1782. On the lOth of the same month the Legislature of New York, then sitting at Poughkeepsie, passed an act to prevent the establishrnent of 40 FOUNDING OF BANKS. any bank within this State, other than the Bank of North America, during the war. The importance of a local insti- tution became evident soon after tlie peace. On the 12th of February, 1784, a plan of a bank appeared in The New York Packet, and on the 28th a notice was issued in the same journal " inviting all gentlemen disposed to establish a bank on liberal principles, the stock to consist of specie only, to meet at the Merchants' Cofifee-House the next evening." Every effort was made to attract subscribers by notices in the newspapers, public placards on the street corners and per- sonal application. The capital proposed to be raised was $500,000. When about one-third of that sum ($150,000) had been taken, it was resolved to commence operations. On Monday, the 15th of March, 1784, the Bank of New York was organized, with Alexander McDougall as President and William Seton as Cashier. An application for a charter was refused by the Legislature, and the bank did not become a corporate body until the 2ist of March, 1791, with a capital of $1,000,000. This was the only bank in New York before 1800. The Manhattan Company, originally organized in 1799, to supply the city with water, only availed itself of its banking privileges at a later period. The next, the Merchants' Bank, commenced operations without a charter in 1804. In J815, Mr. Isaac Bronson, in a pamphlet entitled "An Appeal to the Public," stated the active capital of the banks of the city to be $13,515,000. On the 31st of December, 1874, there were 59 banks, with a capital of $85,166,100, deposits of $165,918,700, and a circulation of $24,977,300. The transactions of the Clearing-house, in which the banks are associated, for the year 1874 reached the enormous sum of $2,226,832,247.89. This is not the occasion for a history of banking in this city or a eulogy of the banking laws of this State under which this difficult business was carried on for so many years with safety and success. Nor is there room for an account of its vicissitudes and trials. In all financial disasters the banks of this city have borne themselves with credit and courage. Whatever opinions may be entertained of the wisdom of their IMlli INSURANCE COMPANIES. 41 policy, on occasions of grave enicrgcncy, it cannot be denied that the}- liave always kept in view the best interests not only of their stockholders, but of the cc)nimunity at large. By common consent the financial centre of the country, New York has always led the way to resumption when suspension of specie payment became inevitable. Such was the case in 18 1 7, in 1839, in 1857. In 1S61 the scheme was here devised which .associated the banks of the four great commercial cities in support of the Government, and enabled them to make to it the colossal loan of $150,000,000 in coin. It may be truly said of the New York banks that they spared no effort to keep the country on a specie basis and to avert the calamities which have fallen upon it from excessive issues of paper money — a dark disaster to which the well-worn quota- tion may be applied with perfect fitness — " Facilis est descen- sus Averiii, scd revocare gradnui , hie labor, hoe opus est." The first savings bank was the Bank for Savings of the Cit}^ of New York-, incorporated on the 26th of March, 1S19. Its plan was devised in the rooms of this Society by John Pintard, to whose sagacity New York owes so many of its most useful and thriving institutions, and Thomas Eddv. The deposits from the 3d of July to the 27th of December (18 19) reached the sum of $153,378 from 1,527 depositors. On the 31st of December, 1874, there were 44 savings banks in this city, holding $180,010,703 from 494,086 depositors. Insurance companies, or associations of individuals for the purpose of insurance under the management of a chosen board of officers, are of comparatively modern growth. The old fashion was different. Then any persons inclined to under- write risks made their undertaking at some public place where the policies upon which insurance was desired were shown, and kept books of their own in which their liabilities upon such policies were entered. In the middle of last century the "Old Insurance Office," as it was called in 1759, was kept at the Coffee-House, where the clerks of the office, Keteltas and Sharpe, attended every day from 12 till i in the day, and 6 to 8 in the evening. A rival office, the New York Insurance Office, with Anthony Van Dam for 42 INSURANCE COMPANIES. clerk, was established the same year, and a permanent office taken next door to the Coffee-House. This was the office patronized by the Waltons, Crugers, Jaunceys, and other city capitalists. In 1778, when the destruction of vessels and convoys by the adventurous American pri- vateers had greatly enhanced the risk of navigation, " the New Insurance Office " was opened at the Coffee-House. The mode in which this business was done is shown by an announcement of Cunningham & Wardrop, " Insurance Brokers," who advertised in 1779 that they had opened a "Public Insurance Office," where policies are received and offered to the merchants and underwriters generally. Each underwriter subscribed his name for the sum he engaged. x\n interesting hand-book of the insurances of William Wal- ton, in sums varying from ^^400 to ^50, is still preserved. All these offices were for marine insurance. The first marine insurance company organized after the war was the United Insurance Company, founded in 1795, or early in 1796, and chartered March 20, 1798, with a capital of $500,000. The charter allowed fire as well as marine risks. The second was the New York Insurance Company, founded in 1796, and incorporated April 2, 1798, with a capital of $500,000. The first company which confined itself wholly to sea risks was the Marine Insurance Company, which commenced business Nov. 19, 1801, with a capital of $250,000. To-day there are nine marine insurance companies, with assets reported Dec. 31, 1874, at $25,035,785.62. The first proposal for insurance against fire seems to have been a motion made in the Chamber of Commerce by Mr. John Thurman on the 3d of April, 1770, that "as it is the desire of a number of the inhabitants of this city to have their estates insured from loss by fire, and that losses of this sort may not fall upon individuals, the Chamber take into consid- eration some plan that may serve so good a purpose." The consideration of the subject was postponed, and no action taken. On Feb. 16, 1874, a notice appeared in The New York Packet: "Some gentlemen have now in contemplation to form a company for insuring houses in this city against fire. COMMKRCIAI. LIKE. 43 Such houses as arc insurctl will be of course received as secu- rity ill the bank ; " and a further attempt was made by Mr. John Delafield in April, 1785, to establish a " fire insurance office," but they do not seem to ha\e been successful. The first fire insurance company was organized by John Pintard (who became its secretary), June 15, 1787, under the name of the Mutual Assurance Company. An act of incorporation was obtained March 28, 1809. 'J\)-day there are 74 fire in- surance companies in the city, with assets reported Dec. 31^ 1874, cat $44,696,827. The first notice of a life insurance company appears in an act of incorporation of the Mechanics' Life Insurance and Coal Company on the 28th of February, 1822, " with power to make insurance upon lives or in any way depending upon lives, to grant annuities, and to open, find out, disco\er, and work coal-beds within this State." To-day there are in the city 21 life insurance companies, with assets reported, December 31, 1874, at $191,683,513. These companies issued 59,261 policies last year, for the sum of $178,389,450, and had outstanding at its close 272,803 poli- cies, for the amount of $994,151 ,829. In these figures no account is taken of the large business done in this city by insurance companies of other States hav- ing branch ofiices here. A recapitulation of these sums gives the amount of capital employed in banking and insurance at $692,501,627. The recapitulation is as follows : Bank capital $85, 166, lOO Deposits 165,918,700 Savings 180,000,703 Total $43 1 ,0^5,503 Insurance- Marine $25,035,785 Fire 44,696.827 Life 191,683,513 261,416,125 Total $692,501,627 The commerce of the cit>' was under the watchful care of two important societies during the colonial period. The 44 COMMERCIAL LIFE. Chamber of Commerce was founded the 3d of May, 1768 ; chartered 13th of March, 1770, and revived 13th of April, 1784, by an act of the Legislature confirming its charter. This institution established the rates of commission, settled the usages of trade, fixed the value of coins, and otherwise super- vised the mercantile interest. The other commercial society was the Marine Society, chartered April 12, 1770, and rechartered by the State Legislature in May, 1786. The business of this corporation was the " improving of maritime knowledge and the relief of indigent and distressed masters of_yessels and of their children." No sooner was the treaty of peace signed than the great Continental powers hastened to stretch forth a hand of wel- come to the infant Republic, and ambassadors were ap- pointed to the seat of government. France, the Netherlands, and Spain were all represented by first-class Ministers as early as 1785- ^^ "^^'^^ remarked at the time, " every nation in Europe solicited to partake of her trade." Great Britain alone, chafing under her defeat, remained for a long period sullen, and endeavored by navigation acts and other adverse legislation to cripple the commerce of the States. The West Lidia trade, the most profitable in which New York was engaged, was prohibited in American vessels, and all inter- course forbidden, except in British bottoms, the property of and navigated by British subjects. She only consented to a treaty of amity and the sending of an ambassador in 1791, and only then because of the fear of a closer alliance of America with the French Republic. Nor was this the only obstacle to the development of the trade of New York. On the 3d of February, 1781, the Congress of the United States had passed an act recommending to the several States as indispensably necessary that they vest a power in Congress to levy for the use of the United States a duty of five per cent, ad valorem, at the time and place of importation, upon all goods, wares, and merchandise of foreign growth and manufacture, to take general effect when the States should consent. On the 19th of March of the same year (1781) the Legislature of New York passed the required act, suspending COMMERCIAL LIFE. 45 its operation until all the States not prevented by war slioulJ vest similar powers in Congress. Here, again, as in the act authorizing the legal tender of Continental bills as nione)- in this State, New York had without dela}- waived its settled opinion and undoubted interest for the benefit of the whole. On the 15th of March, 17S3, the Legislature, after reciting in a preamble that several Legislatures of other States have passed laws " dissimilar to the true intent and meaning of the act of 1781 ," repealed the same, and passed a new act granting to Congress a duty of five per cent, ad valorem, as in the pre- ceding act, but ordered the duties to be levied and collected by officers under the authority of the State. To the provi- sions of this act the merchants of New York took exception, and on the motion of Isaac Moses, one of the most intelligent and respectable of the Jewish merchants of the cit)', the Chamber of Commerce memorialized the Legislature to aban- don the vicious s}'stem of ad \-alorem duties, which opened ever}' man's invoices and trade to the inspection of his neigh- bors, and adopt in lieu a specific tariff. The Legislature listened to this petition, and on the i<Sth of November, 1784, passed an act levying specific duties, and established a custom- house the same day. The veteran Col. Lamb was appointed the first Collector of the Port. When the State adopted the Federal Constitution in 1789, it was compelled to surrender its preference for specific duties, among other and \aluable privileges. From that day to this each succeeding generation of merchants has urged upon Congress the importance of a change to the specific system., Almost immediately upon the return of the merchants ex- iled by the war, new avenues were sought by them for the extension of commerce. Li the fall of 1783 a ship was pur- chased by some of the most enterprising, in association with their neighbors of Philadelphia, and dispatched to China laden chiefly with ginseng for exchange for tea and Chinese manu- factures. This ship— the Lmpress of China, Capt. John Green— sailed on the 22d of February, 1784 (Washington's birthday), having on board, as supercargo, Major Samuel Shaw of the Revolutionary arm}-, later the first American 46 DEPREDATIONS OF THE ALGERINES. Consul at Canton. This was the first American v^enture in those distant seas. She reached the city (New York) on the I2th of Ma}% 1785, after a voyage of 14 months and 20 days. This venture was one-half for the account of Robert Morris of Philadelphia, and the net profit was ^^o,"/!"/ — over 20 per cent, on $120,000, the capital employed. Other vessels fol- lowed, and as early as 1789 the United States had 15 vessels, against the 21 ships of the East India Company, in the China seas ; and in the six years, from 1802 to 1808, of ^12,831,099 in value of bullion imported into India, iJ"4,543,662 was from the United States, and of £22,^^/0,6^2, the value of goods exported from India, ^4,803,283 was to the United States. The Empress of China carried the original flag of the United States, adopted in 1777 as the national flag, " thirteen stripes, alternate red and white, and a union of thirteen stars, Avhite, on a blue field, representing a new constellation." This flag, first shown in the Pacific at the masthead of a New York vessel in 1784, was taken round the world by the Columbia in 1789- 1790, and by the Franklin of Salem to Japan in 1799. The French Government was quick to stimulate the commerce of the American States, from whose enterprise it anticipated a counterpoise to the maritime power of Great Britain. In August, 1784, the French Consul-General at New York communicated to the merchants an invitation of the King "to avail of the French ports of the Isles of France and Bourbon in their voyages to and from the East Indies," where they were promised " every protection and every liberty they might wish for or stand in need of." To show the importance of the trade which sprung from these small beginnings, it is only necessary to refer to the amount of the total Asian trade of the city of New York, which, in the year closed June 30, 1874, reached the sum of $36,099,362, of which tlie imports amounted to $31,275,679, and the exports hence, $4,823,683. 'In its inception the young marine had other difiiculties to contend'with than the simple unfriendliness of Great Britain. One of the greatest was the terror spread over the colonies by the report in February, 1785, of the capture of an Ameri- UNFRIENDLINESS OF FOREIGN PO\VERS. 47 can vessel by the Barbaiy pirates, who then infested the Mediterranean Sea, and even ventured in pursuit of tlieir prey into the open ocean. It is ahnost impossible for us at this day to comprehend the policy which influenced such a naval power as Great Britain to consent to the ignominy of paying tribute to, and taking papers of safe-conduct from, this petty but audacious power. Probably no better explanation can be given than that she considered it for her interest to have a dangerous sea between the near towns of France and the African coast as a shield to her Indian possessions, the highway to which lay through the Mediterranean. Certain it is that at a later day her agents negotiated a treaty between the Barbary States and Portugal, then wholly under her in- fluence, in which it was stipulated that Portugal should fur- nish no protection to any nation against Algerine cruisers. This treaty, kept secret both by the contracting powers and Great Britain, in 1/93 opened the gateway of the Atlantic to the Moors, and ten American vessels fell unsuspecting victims into their hands. The United States, like the pAU'opean powers, finally consented to pay the required tribute ; but the disgrace at last awakened the pride of the States, a navy was created, and in 18 15 Commodore Decatur met and defeated the Algerine squadron, sailed into the Ba\' of Algiers, and forced the Dcy at the mouth of his guns to surrender all American prisoners and all claims to tribute, an example soon followed by the great powers. The French, though never openly hostile, were never wholly friendly. The French people, who had declared the " rights of man " on the Champs de Mars, and asserted their own freedom in 1789, were dissatisfied with the neutrality of the United States, which they looked upon as signal ingrati- tude. The Imperial Government in the Berlin and Milan decrees, by which it attempted to enforce a Continental land blockade against British trade, was as indifferent to American rights as Great Britain herself in her Orders in Council, and the adventurous trading vessels of the States had to run a double gauntlet. It was not till after the peace of 181 5, and when the gallantry of its youthful navy, led by Hull, Perry, Preble, 48 INCREASED COMMUNICATION WITH EUROPE. Bainbridge, Decatur, and Lawrence, had shown that it was as dangerous an enemy in war as a valuable friend in peace, that the young nation found a fair and unimpeded field for its marvellous activity. Of the rapidity of its movement at this period, the Customs revenue collecteci by the United States Government is a striking example. From $4,415,362 in 1 8 14, it rose in 181 5 to $37,695,625, of which $16,000,000 was taken at the port of New York alone. In the fiscal year ended June 30, 1875, the total amount of Customs revenue for all the United States was $157,167,722, of which $109,- 207,786 was taken at the port of New York. The communications with Europe were now largely in- creased. In 1774 there were only five packet-boats, belonging to the royal service and carrying the mails, stationed between Falmouth and New York, of which one left each port the first Wednesday in every month. They were the Earl of Halifax, the Harriott, the Duke of Cumberland, the Lord Hyde, and the Mercury. Besides these, there were numerous excellent vessels in the merchant service. An instance of the speed of these vessels is to be found in the voyage of the Samson, Captain Henry Coupar, which brought out the act known as the Boston Port bill. This fast ship left London the loth of April, 1774, Land's End the 14th, and arrived at New York on the 12th of May, making the passage in 27 days. The journals record that this vessel brought an ac- count of the receipt of bills (of exchange) sent from New York to London in one month and 29 days, which was in less time than perhaps was ever known before, consid- ering the distance. The French Government was early in establishing regular packet communication with the young nation. In the fall of 1783, on the 19th of November, before the evacuation of the city, the Courrier de I'Europe, Capt. Cornic de Moulin, arrived from the port of I'Orient, and notice was at once given of the establishment of a line of five first-class ships — le Courrier de I'Europe, Ic Courrier de rAm^erique, le Courrier de New York le Courrier de I'Orient, and I'Allegator — to make monthly trips. The line was under the direction of Mr. Hector St. John, the OCEAN STEAM CO.MMUNICATIOX, 49 Coiisul-Gcncral of France for Connecticut, New York, and New Jersey, anti the immediate supervision of 'Slv. William Seton as deputy at;ent. The " noble cabin " of I'Orient was advertised as capable of accommodating forty persons at table. The price of passage was fixed at 500 livrcs at the captain's tables, and 200 livres for those who chose to take ship's rations, and 120 livres the ton of 2,000 pounds weight, or forty-two cubical feet. This vessel sailed on her return Dec. 19, 1783, and took out a number of passengers, among whom, strange to sa}', were several officers of the British army. In the comrnencenient of this enterprise the public were informed that the French packet was an immedi- ate channel of con\e}'ance for letters from and to all parts of the continent of Europe, the General Post-Office at Paris having a daily intercourse with all the capitals. Such was the beginning of regular communication. Tn 1816, the famous Black Ball line to Liverpool was established, a few years later the Swallow Tail line to London, and in 1824 the Ha\'re line. In 1827, the Liverpool line emplo\ed twenty ships, the London line eight, and the Havre line tweh'e, be- sides which there were weekly lines to Savannah, Charleston, Mobile, and New Orleans. The average passages outward of the Black Ball line were made in twent}'-two days, and the home voyage in twent}'-nine days. But steam was soon to change the entire mode of ocean navigation as well as of land travel ; and to such an extent that to-day, of all the passen- ger fleet the only line which continues its regular passages is the old Swallow Tail line. As far back as 1 790 John Fitch had solved the problem of the application of steam to vessels, and is said to have made experiments on the Collect Pond in this city, in which he used the screw as well as the paddle, and within a short period from that date practically carried passengers on the Schuylkill at Philadelphia. In March, 18 19, the steamship Savannah sailed from New York for Savannah, and leaving that port on the 25th of May, made the first ocean passage, arriving in Liverpool the 20th of June. On the 7th of April of the same year, the Legislature of New York incorporated an " Ocean 50 INCREASE OF NAVIGATION. Steam-ship Company ; " but it was not until 1838 that the arrival of the Sirius and Great Western opened ocean steam navigation. The Bremen line was the pioneer of the Ameri- can steam lines. In 1850 the " Atlantic" began the career of the Collins line, which was for a long period the pride of the nation as well as of New York, but at last succumbed after a series of misfortunes and disasters. The history of our once splendid steam marine is but an episode in the pro- gress of New York commerce. Of all the large fleet of steamers only one now carries the flag of the United States across the Atlantic. Yet the exhibit of its commerce is none the less wondrous for this absence. In the year 1770, the ships which entered the harbor of New York were 196 in number, the sloops 431 — a total of 627 sail. In the year 1828, the arrivals of vessels at New York were 1,400 from foreign ports and 4,000 coasting vessels. In the year ended June 30, 1874, the number of entrances at the port of New York of American and foreign, ocean, steam and sail, was 6,723 — 5,044,618 tons, and handled by crews numbering 148,246 men. Of these vessels, 4,290 were foreign and 2,433 American. In this number are in- cluded 1,108 steamers; 877 foreign and 231 American. Of the American steam-vessels, every one, with one single ex- ception, was from the coast, the West Indies, or South America, the ocean trade having been whollj' abandoned to foreigners. The registered tonnage of the customs district of New York was, at the same date, 6,630 vessels of 1,318,- 523 tons; 2,810 sailing vessels of 600,020 tons; 788 steam vessels, 351,686 tons; 546 barges, 123,535 tons; and 2,486 canal boats, 243,281 tons. The coastwise trade engaged 2,742 vessels, 1,774,181 tons, of which there were 1,583 steam vessels, 1,517,481 tons, and 1,159 sailing vessels, 256,700 tons. / The internal tracie has progressed with equal rapidity. The project of a canal connecting the great lakes of the inte- rior with tide water was the first thought of the city after the peace. In 1785 Christopher Colles, an ingenious mechanician, memorialized the Legislature of New York for the establish- INTERNAL TRADE. 5 I mcnt of a canal to connect the Mohawk with the Ilmlsun, and in 1792 a company was chartered, which in five years opened the passage from Schenectady to Oneida, and in- tended to continne it to Lake Ontario, for whicli extension the route hail been surveyed in 1791 ; but it was not till 18 10 that the canal policy found its great advocate in De Witt Clinton. His memorial in 181 5 gave a new impulse to the movement. Through his commanding influence, the act establishing the Erie Canal was passed in 18 1 7, and the grand enterprise completed. On October 26, 1826, the sound of cannon commenced at Buffalo, and, repeated from city to town and town to city, announced to New York tlie comple- tion of the Erie Canal and the final union of the lakes with the Atlantic, the presage of the power and wealth of the city as the great gateway of the western hemisphere. The arri\al of the first canal boat on the iith November following, was the occasion of a grand aquatic and civic pageant, in which the commingling of the waters was t}-pically illustrated by the pouring by Gov. Clinton, the " Father of the Canal," of a keg of fresh water of Lake Erie into the Atlantic Ocean at the Narrows. The measure of this grand improvement may be judged from the amount of produce now brought to mar- ket. In 1874 the transportation of produce from the interior of this State and the Western States b}' canal boats amounted to 3,323,112 tons, and the returns of supplies of various kinds to 753,981 tons. An estimate of the value of the produce brought into this city by the canals and railroads may be made from an examination of the exports from New York in the fiscal year ended June 30, 1874, in which breadstuff's figure to the value of $91,332,669, and provisions to the value of $40,193,947, in all $131,000,000, without estimate of the amounts retained for consumption or traffic with other States. The other principal exports of American product from this port were cotton to the amount of $41,499,597; lard and tallow, $20,319,514; tobacco, $16,117,749; illumi- nating oils, $23,121,059. A summary of the total foreign trade for the same year (ended June 30, 1874) shows that of the total imports by the United States, of $595,861,248 in 4 52 IMMIGRATION. value, New York imported $395,133,622; and of the total exports of the United States, $704,463,120, $340,360,260 were by New York ; and of a total aggregate of foreign trade, in\i'ard and outward, by the whole country of $1,300, - 324,368, New York had $735,493,882, or nearly 60 per cent. It may not be without interest to present a summary of the trade of New York in geographical divisions. Its total trade (in the year ended June 30, 1874) with foreign American ports, Canada, South and Central America, and the West Indies, amounted to $163,523,775. Its total European trade, $53371 1.992- Its total Asian trade, $36,099,362, and its total African trade to $2,158,753. In its imports sugar and molasses figured to the amount of $52,360,176; coffee, $33,485,559; tea, $15,024,794. Soon after the peace, a German society was established under the direction of Cols. Lutterloh and Weissenfels, as President and Vice-President (both of whom had been dis- tinguished in the Revolutionary War, the latter as one of the expedition under Gen. Montgomery to Canada), for the pur- pose of encouraging emigration to the State of New York, " so that the western part thereof may be settled by those useful members; witness the State of Pennsylvania." So runs the card of " A Friend to Cultivation," in The New York Packet of October 14, 1784 ; but no considerable movement took place for a long period. In 1824 the total number of emigrants to all the United States was 7,912. The improve- ment in comfort and diminished risk of the ocean traverse gradually induced a larger movement ; but the great impulse to the exodus, which in the last half century has reached nearly ten millions of people, was given by the Irish famine of 1844. The highest rate of emigration was reached in 1872, when 449,042 persons were landed; of these, 294,581 at the port of New York. Since that year there has been a gradual decline in the number ; in 1873 it fell to 266,449, i'l 18/4 to 149,762, of which 41,368 were from Germany, 41,179 from Ireland, 19,822 from England, and 7,723 Mennonites — a religious sect from Russia. In 1875 the number landed at this port dropped to 84,544. This decline may be ascribed MANUFACTURKS — PUBLIC SCHOOLS. 53 chiefly to the long-continued financial and business depres- sion throughout the country. The movement will certainly be resumed upon a revival of trade and renewal of prosperity. This emigration has been a large and profitable branch of the carrying trade, now in great distress in consequence of its decline. It has been observed that New York lias never claimed any preeminence as a manufacturing city, yet as a o-reat in- dustrial centre it ranks next to Philadelphia. The United States Census of 1870 showed that there were then 7,624 es- tablishments, with 1,261 steam-engines and sixteen water- wheels, employing 129,577 hands, at an annual outlay in wages of $63,824,262, and a capital of 129,952,262. The raw materials used were valued at $178,696,939, and the annual product at $332,951,520. In addition to these, the ship- building in the year ended 30th of June, 1874, comprised 89 sailing and 60 steam vessels, 196 canal boats, and 51 barges, a total of 396 vessels, 64,001 tons. It is a fact too often for- gotten, but of which the increase of the great landed prop- erty to which allusion has been made, by accumulation alone without original enterprise, since the death of its founder in 1848, is indisputable evidence, that no ship arrives, no emi- grant lands, no railroad or canal brings its freight to this city, that does not pay some toll and add some value to its real estate. Let us now pass from the review of the commercial and industrial progress of New York to an examination of its advance in social improvement. Before the Revolution popular education was limited, and chiefly dependent on the aid of churches. Indeed, until this century the education of the lower classes was regarded rather as a favor than a right. Universal sufl'rage has set forever at rest this fallacv in the United States, and if it have no other advantage, it has at least the indisputable merit that it compels capital to educate labor. William Smith, the historian, writing in 1756, says: " Our schools are of the lowest order; the instructors want instruction ; and through a long shameful neglect of the arts and sciences our common speech is extremely corrupt." 54 UNIVERSITIES AND COLLEGES. Noah Webster speaks of the schools in 1788 as " no longer in the deplorable condition they were formerly, and many of them as kept by reputable and able men." But all these remarks apply to private schools. The first action toward general education was in 1791, when the Legislature appro-, priated the sum of $50,000 for five years for elementary and practical instruction in this State. To-day the public instruction of the city is under the charge of a Board of Education, who reported the number of schools within its jurisdiction, December 31, 1874, as 287, held in 121 build- ings, engaging 3,215 teachers, of whom over 3,000 are females, and giving instruction to 251,545 scholars. The system is maintained at an annual cost of $3,475,313- New York may safely challenge rivalry on the part of any com- munity, American or foreign, with this magnificent showing of her system of public education, which includes for the higher branches a Free Academy, a Normal College for the education of teachers, a Nautical school, and a school for the compulsory instruction of delinquents. The institutions for instruction in letters, science, law, medicine, and art must be passed by in silence ; enumeration even would be tedious. Columbia College, the University of the City of New York, and the Rutgers Female College are the principal. Besides these, each religious denomina- tion has its own school system. The College of Physicians and Surgeons heads the list of medical colleges, the Law School that of law — both adjuncts of Columbia College ; but every branch of instruction has its special institution. Re- viewing the whole, there are found 3,365 instructors, 277,310 students, and an annual expenditure of $3,808,381. Li addition to these, all institutions incorporated by the State or making a report to the authorities of the State, there are numerous schools for instruction of both sexes in the higher departments of knowledge, some of which are as extensive as the colleges. Of these, the most famous is the Cooper Institute, the munificent donation of Peter Cooper for the education of the working classes — a model institution, which includes free tuition in engineering and the arts of design and modelling. THE NEWSPAPERS. 55 The earliest organized library in the city of New Yovk \\\is the City Library, founded in 1729. Its rooms were in the City Hall, where the Society Library, organized in 1754 and chartered in i77-. ^^'^'-^ •'I'so kept. Both of tliese libraries, as also that of King's College, were sacked b)- the British and Hessian troops during the war. \n 1784 (February 12) Mr. Samuel Bard, by order of the trustees, made a public recjuest in The New York Packet for the return of such volumes as belonged to the Societ)- Library. To-day there are 23 libraries of circulation and reference, of which the Astor is the most valuable, containing 150,000 volumes. This is a free library, under certain reasonable restrictions. Another, which prom- ises to be of great if not equal value, is that projected by James Lenox. The beautiful structure erected for its recep- tion is one of the principal ornaments of the city. The Mer- cantile Library follows with 158,034, and the New York Society Library is next in order. The New York Historical Society Library, in the rooms of which we are now gathered, has a valuable collection of manuscripts, public and private documents, bound newspapers to the number of 2,319, his- torical works exceeding 6o,000, and includes a fine museum, with the famous Abbot collection of Egyptian antiquities and the Lenox Nineveh collection. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, yet in its infancy, has already brought together a remarkable variety of curiosities, among which is the Cesnola collection of Etruscan antiquities, and the society is erecting a large building in Central Park. The first newspaper in New York was The New York Gazette, established by William Bradford in 1725. During the war the only journals were PLigh Gaines's New York Mercur}', Rivington's Royal Gazette, and Robertson's Royal American Gazetteer, suspended after the departure of the British. Li 17S4 the newspapers were The New York Packet and The American Advertiser, published by Samuel London ; The New York Gazetteer, by Shepard Kollock ; and The Independent Gazette, or The New York Journal, revived by John and Elizabeth Holt; The Independent Journal or The General Advertiser, by McLean & Webster. To-day New $6 CHARITIES. York boasts of 444 newspapers and periodicals, of which 28 are daily and semi-v/eekly, 187 weekly, 22 semi-monthly, 180 monthly, 3 bi-monthly, and 16 quarterly ; 32 are in foreign languages, and 99 have a circulation of over 5,000 copies. Of the 10 principal newspapers, one has a daily circulation of 127,000 copies ; the lowest, printed in German, of 30,000 copies. Of the illustrated papers, one weekl}^ issues 100,000 copies. Of the newspapers devoted to literature and stories, one has a weekly circulation of 300,000, and another of 180,000. One of the religious papers issues 78,000 copies, and one of the monthly magazines 130,000 copies. The weight of newspapers and periodicals mailed by publishers at the City Post-office to regular subscribers for the first three quarters of 1874, Jan. i to Sept. 30, was 17,392,691 pounds, the postage prepaid on which amounted to $249,952.17. The charities of New York are conducted on an imperial scale. Her cosmopolitan munificence is proverbial. To her the eyes of suffering communities, cities, nations, are first turned, and never in vain. Ireland in its famine, France in its floods and desolation, England in the suffering of its manufacturing district.^, Portland, Chicago, Boston, scourged by fire, have all found ready and abundant aid in their day of trial, and at home her charity is no less bountiful. The public prisons, hospitals, asylums, almshouses, and nurseries are 27 in number. The Commissioners of Public Charities and Correction made an expenditure last year of $1 ,54i .685.50 ; the Commissioners of Emigration gave relief to 51,871 per- sons, at an expense of $466,108.22. Besides these great public charities there are endless private associations. That for Improving the Condition of the Poor gave relief in 1874 to 24,091 families. There are also 27 hospitals in the city, of which 15 have large and commodious buildings. St. Luke's, the Roosevelt, and Mount Sinai are prominent examples. There are seven dispensaries, chief among which is the New York Dispensary, established in 1790, Avhich supplies an ave- rage of 40,000 patients annually. There are two institutions for the deaf and dumb ; three for the blind. There are in addition 26 religious, educational, and charitable Roman CLUBS — GROW III OF THE CITV. 57 Ciitholic orj^anizations, 51 benevolent societies, 50 trades- unions, and about 50 other charitable institutions, reforma- tory and educational. The organized local charitable socie- ties receive and disburse about $2,500,000 annually. The Department of Buildings reports 66 hospitals and as)-lums, 1st January, 1876. Where is the community which con- tributes so much of its wealth to the improvement and support of the ignorant and indigent of its members ? Clubs have grown to be a marked feature of city life. Those of New York, including literary and sporting associa- tions, number 40. Of these the most celebrated is the Union, with a handsome and costly building, and a full membership of 1,000 members ; the Union League Club, an offspring of loyalt}' during the late civil war ; the New York, Knicker- bocker, Travellers', the Century, (home of Art and Litera- ture,) the Lotos, and the German Club, all provided with refreshment rooms and restaurants, and largely attended. The limits of the city in i/?>j have been described as con- tained within the irregular triangle formed by the North and East rivers and a line drawn across the island at Reade street. To-day they include the whole of Manhattan Island, 13^2 niiles In length, and averaging l^-^ miles in width, an area of 22 square miles, or 14,000 acres ; and the recent an- nexation from the mainland of part of Westchester County, before known as the towns of Morrisania, West Farms, and Kingsbridge, gives an additional area of about 13,000 acres. Li addition there are the islands of Blackwell, Ward, Ran- dall, Bedloe, Ellis, and Governor, of which the last three named have been ceded to the Government of the United States for Federal purposes ; the other islands have been set aside for correctional, reformatory, and charitable purposes. Of the 27,000 acres comprising the city proper, 1,007 acres, or 8,712,000 yards, are devoted to public parks. The Cen- tral Park needs no mention. There is no park to be found in any European city at all comparable to it. It only re- quires an extension of narrow wings to the river sides near by to combine all possible beauties of location and scenery. Of the other parks, the Battery, Bowling Green, and City 58 GROWTH OF THE CITY. Hall Park are of the last century ; Tompkins, Washington, Union, Madison, and Reservoir-square, and at the northern end of the island, Mount Morris, High Bridge, and Morning- side parks, complete the admirable provision of breathing- places for the fast-growing population. The little town which in 1788 contained in its seven wards 3,340 houses with 23,614 inhabitants, had grown in 1870 to a colossal city, with 64,044 dwellings, and 942,292 inhabitants. Of these 419,094 were foreign born, — 234,594 British and Irish, and 151,216 Germans. To these considerable addi- tions must be made. The Department of Buildings reports the total number of dwellings at 84,200 ; of stores, stables, markets, etc., at 16,438 ; of public buildings, churches, etc., at 524 ; a total of 101,162 of all kinds, ist January, 1876. The recent State census of 1875 carries the total number of the population, including that of the two wards lately an- nexed, to 1,046,037, an increase of 419,707 since 1865. But although this is the actual number of persons residing within the city limits, it is not the measure of its real population : the true location of population is that where it leads its wak- ing not its sleeping hfe. To the enumeration made should be added the number of those who visit the city daily, or depend upon it for livelihood and support. Those added would carry the population of the city and suburbs within a radius of twenty-five miles from the City Hall to more than two millions. The lower part of the city is quite irregular in construction, but from Houston street to the northward is laid out upon a regular and well-devised plan, essentially that made by the Commissioners appointed by the Legislature in 1807 (Gouver- neur Morris, De Witt Clinton and others). There are broad a\'enues running in parallel lines to the end of the island, traversed laterally by parallel streets, all of which are desig- nated by numbers. To this recent changes have added ex- tensive boulevards which connect with the Central Park and offer long and pleasant drives. Broadway, the most famous of New York, and, indeed, of American avenues, is an ex- ception to the general rule of regularity and runs across five GREAT PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 59 of the parallel avenues in a north-westerly direction. This is the great shopping street, and is lined with enormous retail stores and hotels. Fifth avenue, extending northward from Washington square, and skirting the eastern limit of the Central Park, is, with its splendid prix'ate residences, churches and clubs, one unbroken series of architectural display. The public buildings are numerous, and some of them grand as well as graceful. For massivcness, the Custom-house in Wall street, originally built for the Merchants' Exchange, and the new Post-Ofifice, are the most noted : for grace and beauty, the old City Hall, and the Sub-Treasury in Wall street. A new order of architecture has recently sprung up, of which the Tribune building with its tall tower, and the Western Union Telegraph building, are the most aspiring examples. Structures are being erected all over tb.e cit\- ot great size and costliness, both for stores and as private resi- dences. The fourteen churches in which the little city wor- shipped in 1788, have expanded, with their adjuncts of mission organizations, into 470, of which there are 344 distinct edifices, providing seats for 350,000 persons. Connected with the Protestant churches are 356 Sabbath-schools, which give instruction to 88,327 scholars. Many of the churches are large and imposing. Those most marked for their beauty are Trinity, Grace, St. George's, the new Fifth Ave- nue Presbyterian, the Reformed Collegiate, and the Jewish Synagogue. The Roman Catholics are erecting a cathedral in the Gothic order, with all the emblems of the new cardi- nalate, which will surpass all other New York churches in architectural beauty and grandeur. The Croton Aqueduct has been alluded to. The supply of water is drawn from the Croton River, a clear, pure stream of remarkable quality, in Westchester County, which is con- ducted to the city through a covered way of solid masonry 40 iX miles in length. It has a capacity of 60,000,000 gallons a day. It crosses the Harlem River on the High Bridge, a granite structure 1,450 feet long, 21 feet wide, 114 feet high ; is received in two great basins in Central Park, and distributed from two reservoirs through 350 miles of pipes. 60 LIGHT — MARKETS — TRAVEL. The utility of gas was first demonstrated to the citizens in 1817, and in 1825 mains were laid on Broadway. Five char- tered companies now supply the city. Of these the Manhat- tan has two works, which deliver gas through about 170 miles of street mains to 30,000 private consumers and 7,000 street lamps. The markets are 1 1 in number, but with hardly an exception are utterly unworthy of a great city, yet the enormous busi- ness transacted in them deserves notice. The sales of food for cash were reported by the worthy and efficient superin- tendent, who lacks neither the will, energy, nor intelligence to make the market system an honor instead of a disgrace to the city, as amounting to $130,000,000 in the year 1874, of which Washington Market alone received $108,000,000. In the height of the season miles of country wagons from Long Island, Westchester County, and the Jerseys line the streets leading to this great country mart, and form as busy a scene, from daylight until late in the forenoon, as can well be imag- ined. Mr. Devoe, the Superintendent, is authority for the statement that 1,350,000 persons, of both sexes and all ages - — 1,000,000 residents and 350,000 daily visitors — are fed, every business day, in the city. The Superintendent of Pub- lic Buildings estimates the average daily number of guests at the hotels at 200,000. In 1783, and for many years after the beginning of the present century, travel was still in the old-fashioned primitive manner, and communication from State to State, though more frequent than before the Revolution, did not greatly differ in kind until a much later period. The first land route to Bos- ton was opened in 1732, and stages ran to and fro, starting from each point once each month, and made the single trip in fourteen days. In 1787 the Boston stages set out from Hall's Tavern in Cortlandt street (No. 49) every Monday and Thursday morning, arriving in Boston in six days. In the summer months a third trip was made in each week ; the fare four cents per mile. In 1827 a stage left each city daily, and reached its destination in thirty-six hours. To-day the Ex- press trains on the railroads make an easy communication t THE RAILROAD SYSTEM. 6l Avithin eight hours. In 1785 the first stages began their trips between New York and Alban)-, on the east side of the river, with four horses, at the rate of four cents per mile. In 1787 two stages set out for Philadelphia every evening from Powies Hook, Jersey City, at four o'clock, going by the way of Newark, where they stopped for the night, and reached Philadelphia the next day. Another line went by way of Communipaw (Bergen Point), stopped at h'.lizabethtown at night, and arrived at Philadelphia the next evening. Besides these a stage-boat, leaving the Albany pier twice each week, connected with a stage wagon at South Amboy, which took passengers to Philadelphia by the way of Burlington ; and in addition a boat left Coenties slip every Saturday, if the wind was fair, reached New l^runswick the same evening, and re- turned to New York the next Tuesday. To-day the trip is made by railroad in three hours. The first steamboat on the Hudson was the Clermont, built by Robert Fulton in 1807, which moved at the rate of five miles the hour. In 1828 the arrivals and departures of steam- boats at New York reached 6,400. They transported 320,000 passengers. To-day the fast summer boats run to West Point, fifty miles distant, in 2^2 hours, a rate of twenty miles the hour. Steam was first practically applied to railroads in the year 1830, when the Mohawk and Hudson, connecting Albany with Schenectady, was opened. The first railroad out of the city of New York was the Harlem, completed October, 1837. This road began at the Cit\' Hall, and in 1841 extended to Fordham in Westchester County. There are now (1875) three great railroads having their terminus at the Grand Cen- tral Depot, a fine and convenient structure at the corner of Forty-second street and the upper end of Fourth avenue. All these are now under the management and control of the great capitalist and railroad king, Cornelius Vanderbilt. These are the Hudson River, New York Central, and the Harlem, which connect the metropolis with the interior of this State and the Western States. The New York and New Haven carries passengers and freight to the Eastern States, and starts from I 62 CITY CARS AND P^ERRIES. the same depot, below which steam is not allowed on the city streets. Five railroads connect the city with the interior of Long Island, all having their terminus on tlie Long Island side of the East River. These are the Long Island Railroad to Greenport at the eastern extremity of the island, the South Side to Patchogue, the Flushing and North Side to Great Neck, the Central to Babylon, the late construction of A. T. Stewart. From the Jersey shore the Erie Railway runs through the State to Buffalo, thence to the Western States, and communications are maintained by an endless network of roads which centre at Jersey City, with the Middle and Southern States. The average speed on these roads is about thirty miles an hour. The travel was for a long period confined to stages, which, under the name of omnibuses, reached their height in 185 1, when there were twenty-four lines. A few lines still remain, but they are gradually disappearing. Our older inhabitants remember the palmy days of the famous lines of Kipp and Brown, the Chelsea and Knickerbocker. The first cit}' rail- road for horse-cars was the Sixth Avenue, established in 1852. The Harlem R. R. Company had used this mode of conveyance at an earlier day, but rather as an adjunct to their steam line than as a convenience for city travel. The last report of the State Engineer for 1872 gives the number of passengers carried as 134,588,877, at fares varying from five to eight cents. The steam elevated road, the pioneer of rapid transit, carried the same year 167,153 passengers, at a fare of ten cents. The ingenuity' of the best engineers is now tested to devise some mode of rapid transit which may keep pace with the increase of travel, already outrunning all present acconmiodation. The first use of steam on ferries was on the Jersey City Ferry, in July, 1812. To-day there are twenty-three ferries, all steam, connecting NewYork with the west shore of the Hud- son, Hoboken and Jersey City, Staten Island and Long Island. The boats to Brooklyn and Hoboken run every five to ten minutes by day, and every fifteen to twenty minutes b}' night, at fares ranging from two to four cents each passenger. The POSTAL COMMUNICATION. 63 official returns made to the city authorities in 1865 reported the number of passengers carried at 82,321 ,274. The system of leasing the ferries has taken this \aluable franchise from city supervision, but the natural increase of the cit)' and suburbs would carry this number to 100,000, 000 as the lowest estimate for the present year. It has been stated that the estimate of the persons who enter and leave the city (;very day for jnu-poses of business is not less than 300,000. These facts seem to in- dicate that the centre of the travel of the city and suburbs, of AN^hich the cities on the opposite shores are, practical!}', part, is not far distant from the City Hall Park. In 1790 the Hackney Coach stand was at the Coffec-I louse, and the charge one shilling per mile. In 1875 there A\-erc 1,800 licensed coaches in the citv. Yet the citv is in sjreat need of some improvement in the present cab system, for Avhich Paris and London offer such admirable models. The mails were carried in the early days by men on horse- back. In 1673 the post rider began his trips to and from Boston once in three weeks. During the exciting period which preceded the Revolution, the famous Paul Revere, about whose name, as the Express Rider of the Sons of Liberty, cluster memories as sacred as those which attach to the Grecian runner who brought the holy fire from the Delphic altar, kept the communication be- tween Boston and New York, and Cornelius Bradford between New York and Philadelphia. As an instance of the speed of these journeys, it is recorded in the journals of 1789 that John Adams, then at Braintree, received despatches from Congress in fifty hours. In 1775 the mails were made up in New York twice each week for Boston, once for Albany and Quebec, and three times for Philadelphia and southward. In the w^inter the Albany post was carried on foot. In 1783 the post-office was kept in a private house, at No. 38 Smith street, where the postmaster dated his notices and made up his mails. In 18 10 the amount received for postages in New York was $60,000 ; in 1826, $ii3.893-7L 'i"t^ twenty-five persons, including clerks, letter-carriers, etc., were employed in the post-office. To-day the mammoth structure at the 64 TELEGRAPHIC COMMUNICATION. southern angle of the Cit}' Park is one of the chief ornaments of the city. Besides this great building there are twenty branch stations ; the total force employed, including carriers, who make seven daily deliveries, numbers 1,193. In the year 1874 there were delivered by carriers 33,689,117 letters and postal cards, and 16,634,475 city letters ; the postage received amounting to $2,589,384.94. More remarkable is the wonderful growth of the system of telegraphic communication. The Western Union Company, in addition to its large and convenient structure, has 90 branch offices in the city alone, employing 371 operators, 214 messengers, and 238 clerks and other employes. In the year 1875, messages passed over its wires in the city to the number of 242,316, and from the city to other points 1,543,878, in all 1,786,914, or more than ten per cent, of the total messages, numbering 17,153,710, which passed over the lines of this mammoth company in the year mentioned. Of hardly less interest to the citizen is the American Dis- trict Telegraph Company, one of the most useful adjuncts of modern city life ; valuable also in that it employs bo}'s in its service, and trains them to habits of promptness and fidel- it}-, which will in time show good results in efficient public labor of more important kinds. This company, organized in 1 87 1, has now 3,700 instruments in houses, public and private, throughout the city, and a staff of 500 messenger boys. In the past year they delivered 1,107,454 calls, of which 580,886 were their own district business, the remainder deliveries for the Western Union, with whose local offices they are connected. In addition to this service they deliv- ered 1,890,600 circulars and cards of various kinds. It only remains to show the progress in the value of taxa- ble property in the city to complete the showing of its growth and establish its progress in the century, 1776 to 1876, which has been under consideration. In 1801, the total valuation of the real and personal estate of the City and County of New York was $21,964,037. The official valuation in 1875 was, of real estate, $883, 643, 845, and of personal property at $217,300,154 — a grand total of $1,100,943,699. To this TAXABLE PROPERTY. 65 nuist be added the large amount of personal property exempt from taxation held by indi\-iduals and associations, certainly not less than $300,000,000, and the sum of property ^\ ill be found to reach $1,500,000,000. Great complaint is made at this time of the depression of business, but allowance must be made for the extreme expectations of our business men, accustomed as they are to the rapid successes of tlie past. Surely, when the foreign trade alone of New York reached the sum of $735,000,000 in the year 1874, there is still some hope left for the future. Evidently the grass is not to grow in the streets this decade, and the glory of the city is not wholly departed ! It is peculiar to the life of great cities that depression in one branch of trade is the cause of increase and thriving in other ways, and that there is a constant com- pensating balance between the richer and poorer classes of society. Economy and extravagance follow each otlier in alternate rise and fall, and with its injuries, each metes out its benefits to the community as well as to individuals, while stimulated in turn by each alternately, the life of the city itself maintains its health and vigor, all the better perhaps because of the change. The marvels we have witnessed in the present century in the use of steam, and the development of the electric and magnetic forces, which now seem destined to supersede it as motors, are reasonable grounds for hope of new applications and new discoveries as marvellous. What changes they are to make in the life of mankind none may prophesy, but it is not unsafe to predict that New York will continue to grow and prosper, to become greater and wealthier in the same increasing ratio as in the past, and that the values of 1885 will show as wondrous an advance over those of 1875 as those of 1875 over those of 1865. What its progress may be in another century no intelligence can measure, no imagination conceive. In the rapid summary of New York progress a large field of interest has been left wholly untouched— perhaps the most important field of all, that of political government. No- where in the history of modern civilization has the experiment I PROGRESS OF NEW YORK IN A CENTURY. 1776-1876. AN ADDRESS DELIVERED BEFORE THE; NEW YORK HISTORICAL SOCIETY. DECEMBER 7, 1S75, BY JOHN AUSTIN STEVENS. NEW YORK : ^ PRINTED FOR THE SOCIETY 1876. ^, .^:; -/^ :. i I W' ■'i LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 1 1 : ^^^^^H 007 635 361 A% J^^^H t i ^^^^^^mA