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 LETTER XXXr. "^i^fe^ 
 
 Arthur Mlddleton to his Brother Edwin, 
 
 Si. Johis, on Lake Champluin. 
 
 Dear Edwin, 
 
 A PROMISE, ray dear Edwin, should 
 always be observed : I hasten (o fal/il mine, and 
 give 3'ou the particulars of our journey from 
 Albany to Lake Champlain. 
 
 Cohoz is a small village, which is distinguished 
 by the neighbourhood of a remarkable fall in the 
 Mohawk river. Though a cataract is no great 
 novelty for me, I was charmed with the sublimity 
 of this, which difters in many respects from most I 
 bad before seen. The breadth of the river is three 
 hundred yards ; a ledge of rocks extends quite 
 across it, and from the top of them, the water 
 falls about fifty feet perpendicularly. The appear- 
 ance of this grand' spectacle varies according to 
 the quantity of water : after heavy rains, it de- 
 scends in an unbroken sheet, from one bank io 
 the other; ^vh list, at other times, the greater part 
 of the dark-coloured rocks are visible. Following, 
 the direction of the Hudsorf rivet",, we came io. 
 Stillwater, a place that receives its name from the 
 uncommon tranquillity of that part of the stream 
 
 N opposite 
 
•O, «®S 
 
 jopposUe to it. We were slopped an liour or two 
 by some mineral springs upon the borders of a 
 marslr. Each of thcni is contained in ihe crater 
 of a pjrainidal rock, about a man's height. The 
 rocks seem to have been formed by the petrifaction 
 of the water, and the water within them is generally 
 below the rim of t!ie mouth ot the rock : it 
 bubbfes up, as if boiling; and at the beginning 
 of the summer, regularly overflows the bason. 
 The guide sho\*ed us the properties of these springs 
 in several experiments. They extinguish a ligtited 
 -candle in an instant, and suffocate any animal 
 that is put down into the rock ; but neither Mr, 
 Franklin nor myself could suffer any creature 
 capable of feeling, to be tormented for our amuse- 
 ment. After having gratified our curiosity, we 
 quickened our pace, and reached Saratoga before 
 the close of evening. It consists of a few detached 
 houses, and a Dutch reformed church. This place 
 excited no very flattering recollections in my mind, 
 as being remarkable for the surrender of General 
 Burgoyne. Whilst we were examining the remains 
 of the encampments, with painful reflections on 
 the ill success of our countrymen, a grey-headed 
 American, perceiving we wCfe strangers, accosted 
 IBS with a degree of national pride, perfiaps 
 allowable, but not very agreeable to our sensations 
 at that moment, and related the events of that 
 tmfortmiate day. "There, gentlemen," said he, 
 <« is the very spot where U\q British general 
 
 delivered 
 
267 
 
 delivered up his sword to our commander, General 
 Gates." '* Sir," replied Mr. Franklin, with more 
 asperity than I ever heard him s[3eak on any other 
 occasion, " the next time you boast of the exploits 
 of your countrymen, be sure that you know to wlioin 
 you address yourself: we are Englishmen;" and 
 hastily taking hold of my arm, abruptly withdrew^ 
 The next day we renewed our journey, and ob- 
 served that the woods of this part chiefly consist 
 of different species of the oak, hiccory, hemlock, 
 firs, and Weym.outh pines, which dialer from the 
 tree of the same name in Europe. Amongst the 
 under-wood are plenty of wild raspberries, which 
 we found very refreshing. Wretched roads, made 
 of the trunks of trees, brought us, by Fort Edward 
 and Fort Anne, to Skenesborough, a town situ- 
 ated on the borders of Lake Cham plain. Here Mr, 
 Franklin hired a boat to convey us across the lake, 
 and having provided two or three blankets and a 
 basket of provisions, we set sail with a fair wind. 
 Our voyage lasted several days, and was far more 
 agreeable than being cooped up in a large vessel, 
 on the ocean, where nothing is to be seen but the 
 sky above, and a vast expanse of water around ; 
 for we landed frequently, both for the sake of pro- 
 curing refreshments, and observing the mode of 
 life of the people who dwell in the scattered farm- 
 houses that skirt the lake. Many of these arc 
 wretched log-houses, that are scarcely a defence 
 against the weather^ and so badly supplied with any 
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 tliintr eatable, that we coulJ seldom obtain milk, 
 eggs, or even bieacl. At night, we gencr.illy wrapt 
 ourselves in our blankets, and lay down on the 
 cabin floor. This mode of sleeping is not very 
 comfortable, till use has reconciled it ; but \^ hen I 
 am well tired in the day, 1 am not disturbed by the | 
 hardness of njy bed. At Ticondcroga we enjoyed, 
 with double relish, the comforts of a good inn, the 
 only dwelling-house in the place. The agreeable 
 accommodations arise from the good management 
 of the mistress, who is always the active person, 
 whilst the husband minds his larm or* other occu- 
 pations. ; 
 The ruins of the old fort and barracks are to be J 
 seen on the top of a rising ground just behind the^ 
 tavern ; but they are in such a state of decay as to 
 be of no use, nor is there any probability of their 
 being repaired. There are the remains of another 
 fort at Grown Point, which has also been demolished. 
 Some of the ditches are, however, perfect; which, 
 with the ruined buildings, overgrown with different 
 shrubs, partu uhirly ivy, combined with a view of 
 the lake arsd the distant mountains rising beyond 
 it, iiavc a fine effect. This prospect was rendered 
 still more picturesque to us by a large birch canoe, 
 full of Indians, in the dresses of their nation. Their 
 skins were painted of various colours, and in the 
 most whimsical manner: cne leg of the same man 
 was white, whilst the other was daubed with green; 
 liis body was bright yellow, and his face full ot^ red ^ 
 
 spots k^ 
 
269 
 
 spots; and, to give liis countenance (he gi^eatcst 
 pos ible fierceness, his eyes were of different colours. 
 The others had indulged their tjistc with tlie same 
 irreo:alarity ; and all were adorned with feathers, 
 horse-hair, rings, and bracelets; and to complete 
 their attire, each carried a small looking-glass, 
 which was often consulted, in order to touch up the 
 faded colours, or adjust their ornaments. 
 
 In the course of oar voyage we were frequently 
 regaled with magnificent landscapes from the shores, 
 of hanging woods, rocks, and mountains; wlvich in 
 (he evening received a rich glow from the reflection 
 •.of (he setting sun, that at the same time gilded the 
 ' curling waters of the lake. The length of Lake 
 Cham plain is an hundred and twenty miles, and its 
 breadth from (uo to eighteen. In the widest part 
 are a great number of islands : the largest of H.em. 
 is called South Hero, and contains five hundred 
 inhabitants. The brond lake feaches fifty miles, and 
 terminates in a large river, named Sorelle, whitih is 
 lost in the mighty St. Lawrence. I(s waters are of 
 great depth, and the shore in many places moun- 
 tainous and iockj'. The splashing of the waters 
 into their chasms, make an uncomir-on, hollow, 
 murmuring noise, when the wind rises to a breeze. 
 Some of the rocks shelve under the watrr, at no 
 great depth beneath it, as we experienced by a 
 sudden shock, which convinced us that our boat 
 had struck on one of (Iicra, All was confusion in a 
 foment, and every one of us obliged to iiclp to 
 
 N 3 disengage 
 
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 disengage her; in ^vliich we succeeded, with no 
 greater niisfortur.e than a thorough drenching — a 
 circumstance that obliged us to get ashore at the 
 first house that would receive us. It was the 
 dwelling of a plain Scotcli labourer, who also 
 performed the functions of a judge. 
 
 Having passed the boundary that separates the 
 Uniled Stales Irom the British dominions, we 
 reached a garrison town, called St. John's, whither 
 the Indian parly had arrived before us. With 
 them we perceived a middle-aged European, whose 
 languishing, harassed countenance, hati something 
 peculiarly interesting in it; especially, as with the 
 traces of grief, was a mixture of calm resignation 
 painted on his face. Mr. Franklin was so struck 
 ■with his appearance, that he sat down amongst 
 tfaem, and insinuated himself into (heir favour. The 
 jstranger seemed pleased with his attentions, but did 
 not appear very communicative, till an opportunity 
 occurred of conversing in private; when he related 
 bis history, which is so long,^ it must be deferred to 
 a future letter. Adieu. May every happiness 
 attend you. 
 
 ARTHUK MIDDLETON. 
 
 LETTElt