)'.',■■ :\!:vit:: «£s:cK^^CKi fC. <:■ - Miniioo OF (JAUMKXT curnxu. i^j Letters on the Draft. V>, Hiamh for hreast; E. for elbow: F, for fist; L, for length: M, for measure: S. for striiiu'; W, for waist: SL, for sleeve length: LA, for lack; FR, for front; SK, for skirt. Persons who have not a good memory to retain the figures and letters of the foregoing, will l>e better able to avoid mistakes, by putting the numbers on the measuring paper, as they cut the notches in dividing it. as dii'ected, and also names of measures, as you see them on tlie T)]-aft. Sack Coat— Directions for Drafting Back-piece. First. Lay your cloth on the table: ]iut the two ends of the cloth together, and fold it even and smooth, with the right side in. and see that the under, as well as the njtjiei* ])art, lies smooth and free from wrinkles, and have the selvedge next to you. Then, for the Back- ])iece, if your selvedge is lujt straight, lay youi- straight edge, and chalk a sti-aight line near the edge, to mark l>y. Then, lay the notched end of your measure two nund.)ers iVom the top of this line, and dot the place with chalk, or wliat you prefer. Then extend your measure down the sclvetlge, to waist length, and dot this jdace. Then mark the j)lace of skirt length at the end of the pa])er. Then, at the middle or skirt length, make line A, as seen on the draft. Then, on this line, measure four numbers from the selvedge, for the slope of the wai-^t, and dot the place: and then draw lines 13 and C, according to draft; then measure on line 1>. Draw lines F and I>, as seen on the draft. Curve top end with string six numbers long; then measure off, and mai'k the length of these lines l)y the numbers on the draft, and dot the length, etc. Xow, take a string, waist-length, and sweep the curved lines F. and II. (hirve arm-hole; then draw line G, by hold- ing ])ivot hand on toi) end, with stj-inti- Avai. Take width of shoulder-stra]) from back-piece, to get tlie length of )ine H: then curve for side-seam and arm-hole, accordinsf to the 20 DILI) AY '3 MEDHOD OP GARMENT CUTTIKO. draft; then apply skirt leii£;th to line A. Curve line G, by holding' the pivot hand on the upper end of shoulder-strap, and draw lines I and J. Directions for Drafting Sleeve. 1st. Upper Part of Sleeve. — ]\Iake a dot two numbers from the end of your cloth, for the upper point of the back seam of the sleeve ; then draw line A on the selvedge of your cloth. Measure from the np])er point, down six numbers, then three numbers ; then draw lines B and C ; then lay your measure on line A, leaving off the width of the back-piece at the notched end; then dot it at sleeve length. Lay your finger on line B, put the notch for sleeve length under it^ dot it the doulile for elbow length, and draw lines E and F ; then apply your measure, as directed on the draft, and draw curved line D, by placing your left hand on line C, touching the dots on lines A and B; then draAv the curved line G, Avith a string the length of your sleeve. DraAving lines H and I, and it is ready for cutting. 2d. When the upper part is cut, lay it on your cloth, and dot it at the angle, where lines B, D and G meet; then measure two numbers from the upjicr part of line A, on line D. Curve for under part of arm-hole, with a string one length from dot to dot; then curve from line C, on line A, to dot 2 on line D, with a string sleeve length, and it is ready for cutting. For Drafting Collar. Draw line A on the edge of the cloth, or piece; then take tlie length for the collar off the breast-piece. Where the collar is to be sewed on, and the width of the top eiul of back-piece, add them together; for the half length of the collar, dot the whole length on line A. From these dots, draw lines B and C. Then, if the collar is not straight, draw line D. with a string twice the length, from dot to dot, on line A. Directions for Gutting Back-piece of Dress Coat. Lay your cloth, ns directed for Sack-coat, and then draw a line near the selvedge, if not straight. Then lay your measure on the selvedge, or along this line; and, jnitting the notched end two numbers from the end of the cloth, mark the cloth at each end of the measure, and at waist length. Then draw' line A, and measure from the selvedge line four numbers, for slope of Avaist; dot and draw line B. Then, on line B, from to]) down, measiire according to your draft. Lay your square on line B, w-itli the corner, or angle, at each dot. Draw line D. Then di-aw line E at a parallel with line D. Then apply your numbers on each hne. Then, with a string the length of distance to waist of back-piece, draw the curved lines P and II, as seen on the draft. Finish the skirt, according to numbers on the draft, squarmg the lower end bv the first line or selvedge. DILDAY.S METHOD OF GARMENT CUTTING. 21 Breast-piece of Dress Goat. Lay tlic sliort end of tlie sqiiai'C on the end of your clotli, and tlio long end near the solved i^'c, or where you Avant tlie line drawn for the center of the breast, leavino- room for the roundino; of front jiart of l)reast- ]>iece. Then draw line A hy the long end of your square; draw line B by the short end. Apply your front measure to line AJeavino' off two numbers at the notched end, or A\'idtli of back-piece, at collar-seam; then draw line C; then take the length of side-seam from liack-piece. Apply it to line A, measuring from the junction of lines C and A; then draw line D. Apply your measures on lines B, C, and D, as you see them on the draft; then draw line E. Place your pivot-hand at the junction of lines A and C, if youi- customer is high or s(juare- shouldered. If droop-shouldered, six or eight numbers u]i line A, to curve line II, for top end of shoulder-straj). Then curve line F, with string length of side-seam. Then curve for lower and front part of arm-hole, with string four numl)ers long. Finish upper point, to the junction of lines I) and E, Avith string eight mrin1>ers long, and back part of arm-hole the same. Then take the Avidth of shoulder-strap off the l)ack-piece, and put it on line H. Tlien finish the u^iper part of arm-hole to this dot. Then curve for upper part of collar-seam, with string four mimbers long, and four doAvn,from line B, holding your pivot-hand one number beloAV line B; the remainder Avith string' ten or tAvelve numl)ers long. Then draAV curve line for hij), Avith string Avaist length; then round fi'ont part, Avith string from three to five feet long, making it most rounding at the upper ]iart, to suit your custoiner's. breast, or vary, to suit your fancy or fashion. To Draft the Lapel. Draft the Lapel according to the num1)crs on the draft. To do this, draw a line one numl)er longer than line J) of breast-piece; then draw another line the same length, four nmnbers from it. Then, Avith a string the same length that you i-ounded the breast-piece Avith, draw the curved line, as seen on the draft, one numl)er longer than the breast-i)iece, leaving room to clip ends to the form you Avant, after you scAV it on. Obsei've, that the rounded side of the lapel is sewed on, to make it fold back at the top of the breast of the coat. To Draft the Skiit. Place your square Avith one end four numbers from the end of your cloth, the side six numbers from the side of it; then draAV lines A and C by both ends of your square. By these lines, finish the skirt, according to the dii'cctions on the draft. Skirt for Frock or Overcoat. Look on your draft for frock skii-t. Then commence, by draAving •2-2 rULDAT'S METnOT) OP GATiMENT CrTTIXf!. a line skirt length down the edge, with the top end about twelve juimbers from the upjier end of your cloth. ]\Iark this place. Then take a string skirt length, and put your chalk on this mark; and with one end of the sti'ing and chalk in your riglit hand, hold the other end of the string with your left hand, straight above the end of line A, for a ])ivot, and mark tlie curved line B. Then mark the length of this line, as directed on the draft. Then mark the curved line C, either with a sti'ing double skirt length from the same jiivot, or take a string skii't length, and move Ibc left band along on line B, while, with your right band, you chalk line C. Then take a string, or straight edge, skirt length, and ])ut one end on the same pivot point, fi-om which your curved line B was made, where it is marked waist measure. Stretch it across this point, and draw line D, as seen on the di'aft. Double-breasted Waistcoat — Fore Part. Draw line A four numbers from the selvedge of your cloth. Lay yoiir front measure on this line, with the notched end up, leaving off the breadth of back-i)iece at toji, and dot at notch cut for front measure. Thei\ draw lines B and ( ', and apjily your measure to these three lines, according to the draft. Curve line 11, by holding your pivot hand at the junction of lines A and C. Apply your measure for shoulder-strap, according to the draft. Draw line D from line to line E, running through the arm-hole. Then nieasure for arm-hole twelve numbers down; curve lower part with string four numbers long: upper pail with string twelve numbers long; curve for collar with string six numbers long; curve for hip or peak with string waist length. Add lapel, according to the draft. Backpiece of Waistcoat. Measure sixteen numbers from the edge of the cloth. Then draw line A, f(n- the center of the back. Then double the cloth by the line pist drawn. Then lay the measure of the back-piece on the line A. 'with the notched end two numbers from the end of the cloth, and dot at the notched end and at back length. Then curve line B, with a string five numbers long. Measure doAvii from line B, four numbei>; then ten numbers. Then draAV lines V, 1), and E, scpiare from line A. Apply vour measure according to the draft. Curve for arm-hole with onereiiiith of a string from hues E and 1), and finish according to the di-att. To Prepare Measurement for Pantaloons. Prepare your ])a]>er, by folding a long narrow strip, as directed for measuring for coats, and First. Measure round the smallest part of the waist with the notched end: take half the distance, and cut a notch in the closed edg^. Then I)lLI)AVt5 METHOD Of GARMKN'i' CU'I'II.Xl;. T, ])lace the notched end at the smallest part of the waist or top of the hip; take the distance to the ankle, or to the floor, jnst as the panta- loons are wanted, and cnt off your paper. Then take the lower end, and nicasni-e around the knee when bent, and cut a notch on the closed edg'e. Then proceed to make the numbers to draft by, thus: Put the notched end to the notch cut for waist measure, and cut a notch on the closed edge, to make No. IG for ))ants. Then, l)y doultlino- your jiaper between 16 and the notched end, make Xo. 8, then 4 and 2. as directed for makino- coat nund>ers. Then make No. 24, by putting- No. 16 to the notch cut for waist measure, and cut a notch in the open edge at the doubling: this is No. 24. or stride measure. Then double the lower end to stride distance for knee length, and cut a notch in the open edge of your pa])er at the doul)ling. I For Drafting Pantaloons. Lay your measure on the selvedge ol' your clolh, with the notched end at the end of your cloth; make a dot there, at 1(3, at 24, or stride measure, at knee length, and at the ankle, or lower end of your measure. Then, square otf from the selvedge, di-aw the lines A, B, C, D and E, as on the draft. Then measure, on these lines, the lengths signified by the numbers on the draft ; and dot their length, and finish according to the draft ; this is the fore part. The draft for the back part, is made by the letters and numbers seen on your Draft Book. Having given instructions for Measuring, Drafting, and Cutting most of the outer garments of Men, which is the same tor Boys, I now proceed to give proof measure, which will show, that each j)art and piece of a garment cut by this system for one person, will correspond to its proper part in another piece ; so that it matters not what the form or proportions of the body may be, the directions given will enable any person that follows them, to draft correctly, by measuring the parts that are to be sewed together, by the numbers given. Hence, any person wishing to test the measures, taken as adapted to the size and shape of the person measured, can do it as follows : Take a string, and tie it around the waist, at the part where you want the waist of the coat; another, wliere you want the collar-seam, and one around each arm, where you want the sleeve-seam to join the body of the coat, and two strings across the back, between the shoulders — the upper one where you want the sleeve, shoulder-strap and back-piece to join, and tiie lower one, as tiir below as you want the back-piece to sew to the sleeve ; and one across the breast; each of these looped in those that are around the arms. Then apply your measuring paper to each line, down to the first and second strings. Tlien set down the numbers each time, on a blank draft prepared for that purpose. Then measure from point to point, or from seam to seam, continuing each time to set down the numbers on your draft. Determine the leuiith or slope of your shoulder-sfraj), by the use of a string, by moving its pivot up or down on the center of the breast. How to Change the Fashion and Fill Blank Draft Having given instructions for measuring and cutting to fit the body, I will proceed to give some directions how t« change fashions to suit the fancy of 2-1 DILDAY'S METHOU OF GARMENT CL"1T1\(J. yourselves or customers. To accomplisli this : First. Make a blank draft on paper with a pen or pencil. 11^ you have a garment in the fashion you want to use, take a measure of the person this garment fits ; then make the numbers, measuring every part of the garment, and whatever amount of numbers or measures you find on the various parts, set the same down on that part of your draft to which they apply. Then you have a new draft of your desired fashion, which you may cut by, for all otiiers of the same form, whether they be large or small. Caution to Beginners. It would' be well for new beginners to be particular in Jioticing the numbers and measures before they commence cutting. The direction is to take a neat measure and draft correctly by it. When the draft is done, remember the seams are intended to be in the marks made for cutting by. You must then cut far enough outside of the mark, to allow for breadth of seam ; and at the breast, far enough for lapping as much as you wish to suit the fashion you desire, outside of the line intended for the center of the breast. Caution. Notice and count the numbers on the draft. The Sack-coat draft has sixteen numbers marked on the wide part ; and there remains sixteen numbers for the breast-piece, at the same point, extending to the center of the breast. At the waist, you have waist measure, lacking sixteen numbers; then there remains sixteen numbers to be used on the breast-piece, at the waist, to reach the center in front, nothing being allowed for seam or lapping. On the back-piece for Dress Coat, you will find thirteen numbers between the shoulders ; and there remains nineteen numbers for the breast-})iece, to reach the center ; although, on the draft, at that point, you will find twelve, four and five numbers, \vhich make twenty-one numbers, being two numbers over the seam or lapping, besides the lapel. At the waist, you will find four numbers ; then there remains waist-measure, to be used on the breast- piece, at the waist, lacking four numbers, which will just reach the center, and nothing over. These remarks are made, that you may comprehend the size of your garment before you cut it. GENERAL DIRECTIONS. Draft ^o. 1 Has the Draft of the Measuring Paper, with all the notches, measures and numbers marked on it, that are necessary to be used. In drafting by this method for all sorts, styles and lashions of every garment which may be desired, in city or country, to "be worn on the body, no matter what form the person may be, the notches will vary to suit it. Thus, for example, if a man be small around the breast, stoop-shouldered and long in the back, it will cause the waist-length to fall below breast-measure ; but if the size and form be reversed, it would cause it DILDAYS METHOD OF GARMENT CUTTING. 25 to be above waist-measure ; so you must understand, wlien you are measuring and notching, that you are getting the form, as well as size. No. 1 has the Draft, also, of a plain Sack-coat, which is very suitable to learn by, and makes a tolerably good fit. The collar need not be so wide. Tlie sleeve may be a little more crooked at the elbow, if yoii choose, and made one or two numbers smaller at the top, if you want a close fit. Draft Mo. 2 Contains Dress-coat and Frock-coat skirt, and is large enough, witliout the Lapel, and may be used for Frock-coat or Over-coat. Braft STo. 3 Contains a Lady's Dress-sleeve, and was reduced one-third in siz-^ ■^r ' ' the engraver's shop. By adding one-third in length and width, it scale above described. This number contains, also. Double-breasted \\<. and single-breasted, for one row of buttons — by leaving off the lapel and rj ;!■.' the fore part to fit the breast. ^raft Wo. € Contains body of Dress-coat of St. Louis style of fashion, which may also be used for Frock-coat or Over-coat. ^raf t ^o. S Contains Sleeve, Lapel, Collar, and Skirt, belonging to Draft No. 4. These two drafts are drawn by a larger scale. Any person wishing the scale or measurement to iil these, can get it off of Draft No. 4, by applying a narrow strip of paper to the various lines measured on, as if they were taking measure for a coat, and cut notches and make numbers in the same manner. ©rait "Mo. 6 Has Draft of Measurement for Pantaloons, with measures, notches and numbers marked on it, sufficient to draft or cut all sorts, styles and fasliions of Pantaloons, which may be desired in city or country. One draft of Pantaloons, lettered and numbered by it, is plain to learn by, and may be used by those who fancy the fashion. One draft of Spring-bottom, left blank, which may be filled by the same scale. Siraft mo. 7 Will fit the scale or measurement of Draft No. 5, which is Lady's Dress- body. The breast-piece is trimmed about one number off the waist-part of the bottom, for want of room on the diagram, as may be seen by referring to the same. Draft No. 8 Is also by the same measure, and contains Draft of Double-breasted Vest and Rolling Collar, which is neither numbered nor lettered, and may be filled by following the directions given for changing fashions, or by the scale or measure- ment taken from No 3, so far as it applies ; the remainder from No. 8. CERTIFICATE OF MR. KSRSHAW. I hereby certiiy, that Plates Nos. 4, 5, 7, 8, and Ladies' Dress Sleeve in No. ? as well as Spnng-bottoni Pantaloons in No. 6, of Diagrams now being publishe. oy i.. DiLDAY, were engraved by me, after patterns furnished by Mr. C. E Clarke, a practical tailor of this city, who certified that they truly' representee the present prevailing St. Louis Fashions, as used l^y him,' for the garments tiierein set forth. JAMES M. KERSHAW. St. Louis, January, 1855. IMPORTANT TO THE PUBLIC ! DO YOUR OWf^ COTTtNO km TAILORING! E. DILDAY'S NE^v .AND co:noise system OF GARMEW^T CTJTTINa, By which any person oi" ordinary intelligence can learn to cut and fit any garment worn by either gentlemen, ladies, or children, in the best manner, and in a very short time, without the aid of a teacher, is the best system ever presented to the public. The Work has just been published in good style, and is now presented for the first time, at the low price of TWO DOLLARS per single copy, or TWELVE DOLLARS per dozen. ^W" A Chart, containing the Diagrams, will be furnished at FIFTY CENTS per copy, or THREE DOLLARS per dozen. Mr. R. V. Kennedy, 88 Market street, St. Louis, is Agent for the above work, of whom it can be obtained, wholesale, or by the single copy, by addressing him, post-paid, and enclosing the money. Also, of the Proprietor, E. Dilday, Jouesboro', Illinois. (^° Editc -s of Newspapers copying this advertisement, and giving it one or two insertioi , and sending copies of the paper marked to R. V. Kennedy, St. Louis, and L. Dilday, Jonesboro', Illinois, will be furnished with a copy of the work for tl;eir trouble. " "^^ ^ II IIIW "111 ■ II 1 1 II I i_. I -. '' gsga^ coC