il! i I 695 •l95 Siiiiiliilliliiii'l I 11^ s ! i il ! Jlip i l! i ;- i IPIIiilll m if\^;^ ;^^S.Vi' Class. / 3/ J Book '/ 7^ Copyright}!^. IT COPYRIGHT DEPOSrr M^?r ■"..CI 'm>t Pen Pictures of Early Western Days VIRGINIA WILCOX IVINS ILLLSTRATIONS HV \VM. S. IVINS Copyrigkled igo^ LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two CoDies Received MAY 3 1906 yOCopv right Entry CLAS2 OS' XXc, N ' COPT B= ^ TO MY HUSBAND, THE SHARER OF MY JOYS AND SORROWS,* WHO WAS ALWAYS "tO MY FAULTS A LITTLE BLIND, AND TO MY VIRTUES VERY KIND." THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED BY THE AUTHOR. IN PRESENTING THESE PEN PICTURES NO LITER- ARY MERIT IS CLAIMED, BUT THAT IT IS AN AUTHENTIC ACCOUNT OF SCENES AND OCCURENCES IN WHICH THE AUTHOR EITHER TOOK PART, OR TO WHICH SHE WAS AN EYE WITNESS. CHAPTER I. O niiicli has been said and written in reoard to the early settlement of Keokuk that is merely tra- ditional and often with small foundation, therefore it might not be amiss for one who was among- the pioneers of the place to jot down a few events, and describe a num1)er (^f interesting localities. Prior to the year 1827. the little village at the foot of the Des Moines rapids was only known as the Point, by the people living near; it was in fact merely a station of the American Fur Company, and as such a large trade was carried on with the Indian half breeds and French, also with the white people living in the vicinity, most of whom were residents of Illinois. The nearest settlement was at Warsaw, then known as Fort Edwards, being one of a chain of forts on the Mississippi river. The others were Fort Snelling on the north ; Fort Armstrong, now the United States Arsenal at Rock Island ; Fort Madison, and Fort Des Moines, at the present site of Montrose. My father. Major John R. Wilcox, was in charge of the forts on the east side of the river during- the Black Hawk war. }^\\ brothers and lo J\-n Picluvcs of pAirly IVrslrrn Ihiys. sisters were all born at the forts and my mother was a typical soldier's wife, accompanying" him on his trips from one fort to another, often in the dead of winter. The settlers on both sides of tlie river sought protection at Fort Edwards during the war, returning" to their homes at its close. Many close and lasting" friendships were formed, by the mutual need of protection, and residence under one roof go to express it, and the names of many friends of mv parents and grandparents were familiar to mv childhood as household words. ]\iv father and mother both died when I was very small, and mv iirst coming to Keokuk was to make mv home with my uncle. Dr. Isaac Galland, in 1840. The first white settlers of Keokuk were the em- ployes of the fur company, together with the French and half breeds, the latter numbering about thirty- one, although a decree of partition which later lie- came a law, called for one hundred and one, and the Half Breed Tract, land which was given to these people by the government, was divided into that manv shares. The Indians brought many furs and pelts to the trading post, and a large traffic was carried on in exchange for blankets, beads and bright colored calicoes, not to mention liquor in plenty. Game was abundant, such as deer, wild geese, trukevs, quail, phesants and the smaller ani- mals, which could be had for the killing. J\'ii richircs of luirly irrslcni Hays. i r Chief Keokuk's AiHai^e was some five or six miles distant at the YeHow Banks on the Des jMoines river. The l)uil(hns^s at that time were the few log cahins of the French and half hreed settlers near the river. These were built of round logs, with chim- neys on the (Hitside made of sticks and the fire place was faced with flat stones f(^r a fire back and all were chinked with clay. They usually had one small win- dow close beside the door, and were quite warm, with a large fire place occupying most of one side of the cabin, where could be rolled in a huge back log. The rafters overhead were hung with skins of wild animals, ears of Indian ccn-n, strips of pumpkin, and venison hams hung up to dry, while the walls were decorated with gnns, shot pouches and game bags made of buckskin tanned by the Indians. The floors were made of puncheon ; these were logs split in half with the flat side up, and \vere often c|uite uneaven. The headquarters of the fur company, which bore the euphonious title of Rat Row. was built by them, being added to as occasion demanded ; it also served as a steam1)oat landing, being close to the water's edge, between }ilain and IMondeau streets. It was a long rambling structure built of round logs, tw(j stories in ])art with a rude stairway on the outside leading to the second story. These floors were of puncheon also and a platform of the 12 Pcti Pictures of Early Western Pays. same extended around three sides of the biiil(Hn<4'. At the nortli end was a row of one storv cabins occupied by the head men. Boat stores were kept in connection with the company's store for the accommodation of steam and mackinaw 1)oats. the latter were a sort of flat bottomed scow square at both ends, being propelled by poling and paddling. Steamboats were becoming quite numerous and as my earliest home was on the river at A\ arsaw, be- fore my sixth year 1 had learned to spell out the names of the Red Rover, the Black \\'arrior. the Rosalie and the Alaid of Iowa; this was a small side-wheel boat running up the Des Moines river. She was afterwards sold to the Mormons and run in their interest taking passengers from St. Louis to Xauvoo. some twelve miles above Keokuk, in Illinois. The first actual white settler, aside from the fur company, was Moses Stilwell. \\ho came to Keokuk in 1827. His family consisted of his wife, three children and his wife's two brothers. Amos and Valencourt Van Ausdol. The family were domiciled at Rat Row while the men were building a cabin for them at what is now the corner of Ninth and Morgan streets, then a dense woods. The first christening was that of their little daughter a year or two old. who was baptised by the missionary priest. She was named for Mrs. Margaret Aldrich of loving memory who was sponsor for the little RAT ROW IN 1840. Pen Pictures of Early ll'cstcni Days. 13 pioneer. Mark .\klrich, luisl^and of this lady, was the ag-ent of the fur company, living at Rat Row. He was afterwards a settler at Fort Edwards dur- ing" the Black Hawk war. Mrs. Aldrich herself is my authority for this statement, and Margaret Stil- well was a schoolmate of mine. She afterwards married Dr. E. R. Ford, living for a number of years at First and High streets. After the close of the war as people returned to their homes the little village began to improve and log houses were erected farther up on the hillside. About the year 1837. the town of Keokuk was laid out a mile square by my uncle. Dr. Isaac Gal- land, who surveyed, platted and gave it its name. He was assisted in the work by a surveyor named Brattle, whom I remember quite well. Dr. Galland also named the streets, and squares, three in num- ber. Of these there were Franklin scpiare <»n Main between Ninth and Tenth. Chatham square at Sev- enth and ^vlorgan. and Arch square at Eleventh and Timea streets. Unfortunatel}' these squares were not kept for park purposes as intended, for this would have added greatly to the beauty of the town. Dr. (ialland had taken the ])lan of Philadelphia as a model, and our wide Main street was patterned after Broad street in that city. The Doctor had maps struck off. and many were the plats of the town and maps of the surrounding country my 14 Pi^ii Pictures of Early JJ'cstcrn Days. cliiklish fino-ers painted and made ready for distril)u- tion. At the time of my first coming to Keokuk, June. 1840, there were a number of houses in course of erection, mostly of liewed logs with a few of frame. Daniel Hine had built a comfortable hewed log house on W^ater street l)etween Main and Blondeau, bringing his family here froni Warsaw. IMadam St. Amant, one of the leading half breeds who could not speak a word of English, lived on Concert street between h^irst and Second. Her son, Frank Labershier, was the French and Indian inter- preter. He was very handsome with much native polish of manner, a splendid specimen of a man. He died shortlv after I came, lea\ing only his mother and I wo sisters. At that time there were a number of French residents here, among them Maurice and I'iere Blondeau. Joshua Palean, Ed- ward Brishnell and others, most of A\hom had In- dian wi\es. Henry J. Campbell, whose wife was a Potawotamie half breed, had a cabin on First street Ijetween Johnson and k',\cliange; Alex. Ale- Bride, whose wife was a daughter of Madam St. Amant. lixed on B>ank street between l-'irst and sec- ond, and on the corner of ^NFain and Water street, with a porch on the front and a garden back of it, on the slope of the hill lived Mrs. (laines of whom more anon. Dr. (lalland had built (|uite a pretentious house for the times on \\^ater street between Main and Pen Pictures of Early ircstem Days. 15 John.on street which is still standing-, a store below 'and a dwelHng above. Here he bronght his wife and little niece expectino- to remain and send t.,r the other members ..f his family. He also had m conrse nf erection a most comfortable house part wav up the hill on the south side of Main street between First and Second, where the stones of the foundation are still to be seen. This was hnished and the lumber on the ground for the.superstructuro when Mrs. Galland was taken seriously ill and he left at once to seek medical advice for her m St. 1 ouis securing, as he thought, a trusty agent to attend to his lousiness and also to superintend the finishing of the house and have it ready tor us at our return. No sooner were we out ..f the t..wn than the aoent ha.l the lumber hauled out into the country some four or five miles to a piece of land that he had jumped, put it up and moved his family out there. He called it the Hermitage and it still stan.ls solitary and alone. T^^n ^•ears later when we returned the agent met us at the wharf and invited us to go to his countrv i)lace till mv uncle could procure a house. We went and silent two pleasant weeks in the house which should have been our own. The agent meerh- made a joke of the transaction, saying : "Oh, Doctor, ^ve did not expect you back and I needed it badly, and he kept it. Possession was nine in.mts of the i6 Fcii Piciiircs of Early Western Days. law in lliose days and so my nncle was ol)liged to buv a house in which to take his family. This was a small frame cottage on First street between ]\Iain and Johnson and by adding a few rooms we had a cosy home, with a flower garden in front where my cousin and 1 planted and tended pretty old- fasliioned flowers. Pen r id arcs of Early U'cslcni Pays 17 CHAPTliR II. RS (t.MXRS, lieforc mentioned, was a well known character; she was a New Engand woman whose father on coming' west to St. Louis had married a French woman for his second wife, his daughter thus becoming familiar with French customs. She came to Keokuk as the rejjuted wife of John Gaines, who died shortly after, leaving her alone among strang- ers (juite penniless with two small hoys by her former marriage. She was obliged to do something to support herself and them. \Mien her strenuous life began she donned turl)an and handkerchief in imitation of French women and went to cooking, keeping- boarders and managing the affairs of the town to such an extent that she was dubbed the A Favor. She became coarse and hard, losing the fair, delicate looks of her }T)uth. took to swearing in Ixith French and English Ixiasting she w^ould shoot anv one ^\ho molested her, and I think she would ; at anv rate I saw her chase a man a block with an old pistol which had neither lock or barrel. The men were all afraid of her. or pretended to be, and she assumed the position of arl)itrator in many t8 /'(•// richircs of Earl\ U'cslcni Days. of the disagreements and dis])utes naturally arising" in such a waried population. We boarded with her and I knew her well and liked her too, for she was verx- kind to me when my aunt was so ill. There was a most wonderful loft to her house where she kindly stored numerous things l)elonging to my aunt and many of my child- ish toys ; l)ut like the spider and the fl}', whatever went up her ladder ne\'er came down again. This loft was also packed with china taking" a few pieces at a time from the store which my uncle carried on, where he kept goods far in advance of the needs of these earl\- days. Mrs. (iaines would go to the store half a block from her house and fill the check a])ron which she always wore and walk out, while the clerk. Avers l))- name, neither stopped or re- ported her. In this way she had numerous sets of gold band china to gi\e to her friends, some of which might still l)e found in Keokuk. luudy in September. 1840, I left Keokuk with mv aunt and uncle, taking the steamboat Rosalie for St. Louis, from there going on to Louisville, Kentucky where we remained three or four weeks, thence proceeding to Cincinnati, Ohio, where we arrived just when the Harrison campaign was at its height. 1die Henrie House where we stopped was the hcadf(uarters of the Whig ])arty in that cit\-. where ])olitics ran \cry high. My uncle was a staunch Whig and froni hearing almost constant Fen Pictures of Early Jl'cslcrii Days. 19 discussions and conversations on the subject I learned, vonns^" as I was, much about the different aims and issues of the party. We remained at the liotel until after the presidential election when we went to board with the widow of Owen Lovejoy, the first abolition martyr, who was killed and his printint;- ])ress thrown into the river at .\lton. 111., for advocating the al)olition of slavery, in the year '839- \\'e remained with Mrs. Lovejo}- until after the election returns were received. Our next stop was at Chillicothe, Ohio, where we witnessed a grand parade and I helped illuminate our rooms at the hotel. I learned many campaign songs, one of which accurately described the parade. It runs thus : "There were steamboats and fortes and log cabins And then a great Cleveland brig, too, All drawn on wheels by fine horses; Hurrah for old Tippercanoe!" Hurrah for old Tippecanoe!" Proceeding on to Zanesx ille we saw another parade and heard Tom Corwin, a noted politician, deli\er an address. He was known as the Wag- goner bo}- and his rostrum was a lumber wagon. We were joined at Chillicothe by my uncle's two children, a boy of fourteen and a girl of twelve years of age. Going on to Akron, Ohio, we three were placed at school making our home with my grandmother at an old stone mansion on the farm which once belonged to ni}- grandf;ither, now the 20 Pen Pictures of Early Jl'cstcni Days. site of Perkins park in that cit}-. We remained there two \'ears, my aunt and uncle tra\ehn§" most of the time. In the autumn of 184J. ni}- uncle having- fin- ished the husiness in which he was eui^aged and my aunt heing- (|uite restored to health, they decided to return to Keokuk and occu]\v the home which they supposed was waiting' for them. As we were ((uite a good sized famil}'. my uncle jjurchased a canal jjoat and titted it up with the contents of his house, a complete outfit of beautiful mahogany fur- nitiu'c for parlor, dining room and bed rooms, to- gether with a ^^ ell-stocked larder and kitchen, and employing an experienced pilot and taking my aunt's eiflcient housekeeper and cook, we started on the return journe}-. Our 1)oat was to l)e towed l)y horses down the Ohio canal to a point near Pitts- burg where ^ve would come into the Ohio river, thence floating down to Cairo; from there we were to be towed b\' steamboat up the Mississippi to Keokuk. A hue plan had it been earlier in the sea- son, but all together a \ery slow mode of travel for a journev of fourteen hundred and fifty-three miles \vith the winter in prosi)ect. The trip down the canal was delightful in the lovely September days, loitering on the green banks, riding the horses and stopping at all of the villages, while on coming into the river it was e(|ually en- joyable. We saw many places of interest, which Pen rirlinrs of fuirly Western Pays. 21 were rendered doubly so when my nncle described them to us as they were in liis 1x)yhood which was passed at Marietta, Ohio. Among" them was Blen- nerhassett's island where we spent most of a day in rambling over the once magnificent estate. There were still standing the tall stone gate posts of the entrance to the grounds. The ruins of the mansion were now oAcrgrt^wn with ^•ines and sapplings and we drank from the old well which still yielded good water, while mv uncle described its glories as he remembered them before .\aron Burr wrought the ruin of the ambitious Frenchman and his beautiful wife. All this was most interesting to me, for, as my grandmother had told me, and which is now^ a matter of history, it was into the hands of my great-grand- father, James Pritchard of Jefferson county, Ohio, who was Speaker of the Senate, that the proofs of the treasonable plot gotten up by Aaron Burr assisted bv Herman Blennerhassett, which was said to be backed by foreign powers were given; and it was with his aid and that of Abram Shepherd of Adams county. Speaker of the House, that Governor Tiffin was enabled to cjuell the rebellion and cause the arrest of the leaders Ijefore the trouble became known at A\^ashington. Floating slowly down the river, it was late in October when we reached Cincinnati where we should have l)een earlv in the month. Ouite an 22 rcn Pictures of Early H'cstcni Days. exciting- episode occurred on the morning- O'f our arrival there. A passing- steanil>oat caused a heavy swell of waves when hy some mismanagement of the pilot our little craft fell into tlie trough of the river causing it to roll so badly that it came near capsizing. We passengers and the furniture were thrown about in dire confusion, and although none of us were injured it was not a pleasant experience. ]\Iy uncle was so disgusted that on reaching Cin- cinnati he sold the small boat in which we had been so comfortable to the first customer and engaged our passage to St. Louis on the steamboat Raritan. The weather had turned intensely cold and on reaching Cairo we found the Mississippi so full of floating ice that our progress was very slow, and the night of our arrival at St. Louis the river be- came completely blocked. This changed our plans entirely and compelled us to remain there for the ^\ inter. My uncle at once rented a house and placed us children at school. After an absence of two years I returned to Keokuk w ith my uncle's family as before stated, and for se\cral }ears knew all about the place, being of an inquiring mind and good memory. We left St. Louis on the first boat up in the spring, were nearly a week on the wa}-. arriving here on the first day of April. Idle river was barely opened, the ice being- packed almost to the middle. We were obliged to walk quite a distance before reaching the shore. /'(•// riiiurcs of Early ll'eslrni Ihiys. 23 CHAPTER III. AXY cliang-es liad taken place and the village was fast developing- into a town. The Mackinaw boats of the French and the canoe of the Indian had given place to elegant steanilwats. A system of lighting had been es- tablished and boats conld now have their cargo transferred around the rapids by loading it into barges which were towed up along the shore with horses, and re-loading at ]\Iont- rose, thus enabling more rapid transportation. Large f[nantities of freight were handled in this way, there being no other means of moving it except !)}■ wagons. Often steamboats would get fast on the rapids and remain for many days and it was a dangerous task to get them loose from the rocks. Numerous houses had been built and the town was creei)ing up the hill. Both Main and Johnson streets had houses between First and Water streets, but as yet there were none up as far as Second. Lyman E. Johnston was then building the hewed log ho'use on Johnson street which so mysterioush' dis- appeared last year, soon moving into it with his family, his wife and daughter Sarah Marinda, who was my best friend. 24 I'cii Pictures of Juirly U'i'sU'ni Pays. In June. 1S43, this cabin was sold to Charles Tvins who weather-boarded and remodeled it. build- uv^ a small brick addition. J.ater Charles Ivins sold it to liui^^ii Doran, who was the cashier in the I'ioneer Hank established by (ieorg-e C. Anderson about J 845. Doran died there, after occupying- it for several years, then the place went to ruin and now onl}' a few stones mark the spot of the once cos\- home. About 1S43 Lyman K. Johnston built a brick house on Second and Alain and a year later Daniel Iline one on Second and P)londeau streets. These were the tirst brick houses, the material being brought from Xau\oo in flat boats. The cabin of Louise Hood, the onl\- daughter of Dr. Samuel Mnir. was situated on Bank street near the corner of Second. Poor Louise had a checkered career, l^r. AEuir and m}' father were warm friends and his daughter gave me her own history. Dr. Aluir was a Scotchman, educated at the L"niversit\' of Edinburgh. \\ho on coming tO' America obtained a position as surgeon in the Lnited States Arm}', and was stationed at Fort I'lchvards during the Black Hawk war. After com- ing" west he married an Indian woman and had two children of whom he was dexotedly fond. James and Louise. His resignation from the army was caused by an order from the \\ ar Department pro- hibiting the ofhcers from retaining' their Lidian /'(•// /'iiiitirs of Early ]]'cstcni Days. 25 wives. I'lacins;- liis (laughter in the care of Mrs. Mark Alch'ich at Warsaw, after providing for her maintenance and e(hicati()n. he took his son and went west to the Missouri river. T do not know- that he ever returned to Keokuk. His daugh- ter told nie that they both died out west. Louise made her home with Mrs. Aldrich till she was grown hecoining- quite well educated and very much of a lady, moving- in the best circles of tlie place. At the age of sixteen she married Amos Van Ausdul coming to Keokuk to live. Eleven months after their marriage Van Ausdol died leav- ing- his wife a posthumous child, and in most desti- tute circumstances. Being unable to support the child, she gave it to her husband's sister who after- ^vards disowned her on account of her Indian blood, and she was utterly friendless. In desperation she married Alex. Hood who abused her terribly. She gave birth to an idiot child, and Hood was killed in a drunken brawl, leaving her worse off than be- fore. In her loneliness and despair she fell a prev to evil. Augustus Gonzega, a half breed who lived at her house, became her friend and they were tO' have been married; l)ut fate seemed to be against her for he was taken very ill and died without the ceremou}- being performed. She was the owner of two full shares of half-breed land, her brother being dead. This consisted of twenty-four town lots and an undixided share in one hundred and nitieteen 26 J\'ii rirhtrcs of Early U'cslrni Pays. tliousand acres of land, but no money or where to lay her head. The land sharks who were grabbing all the half-breed land they could get hold of, in- duced her to sell her shares for a mere song; and after a long life of toil and poverty she died in 1882, leaving her demented daughter a heritage to the county. She was rmr laundress for many years, so I knew all about her. \l\ uncle and aunt be- friended her many times when she was in trouble. /'('// I'iiiuirs of Early H'csfcni Days. -/ CHAPTER IV. ()l'v1T-l of Keokuk extending- (|uite to the head of the rapids was a dense gTOAvth (^f immense sug'ar maple trees, tall and straight. Xnmerous sngar camps were carried on in the late winter and earl}- spring and large quantities of sugar were made, by both In- dians and white people. Any one could go out and select a camp for themselves and occupy the same from year to year. Madam St. Amant's camp was a favorite resort in sugaring-off time. It was just where the electric light plant is now situated. One year my uncle, Franklin Wilcox, located a camp and made over three hundred pounds of sugar besides almost a barrel of syrup. The road to Montrose led up under the trees which grew along the shore, almost to the water's edge, a fine gravelly road with beautiful shade. It was a favorite resort for horsel^ack riding parties which were ^•ery fashionable at that time. The pioneer church of the \illage was of course Roman Catholic. A lot had been given on the cor- ner of Blondeau and Second streets, upon which to build a church; meantime a small house of two" rooms was put up on the corner of the lot at the 28 /'('// riiiiirrs of Early Wcslcni Ihiys. rear and here masses were said, one of the rooms heini^- htted up as a cliapel. the priest livino- in the otlier. WedcHngs were also solemnized in the small chai)el, one of which I attended, that of ]{liz- aheth Hunt and Henry Louis, my cousin and ni\ - self Ijeing- the only witnesses. Fdizaheth was a memher of our family. Dr. (i. Walter Barr has given the story of their romance as I gave it to him, in his story, "The Victory of the Valliant." in Suc- cess for Septemher, 1904, with few alterations. The lots surrounding the church were used as a cemeter}'. On one occasion twenty-five men were huried there who were killed by the explosion of the steamboat Mechanic in her endeavors to get off a large rock in the first chain of the rapids, from which circumstance it took the name rif Mechanic rock. The prie.st was an elegant man, a native French- man, most zealous in his work, preaching in both French and Fngiish, and was building the church with his own hands. I well remember seeing him at work on the roof in hot July days with his long* coat closely buttoned to the chin. My uncle and he were warm friends. He was a frequent visitor at our house and a most welcome guest. Meetings of other denominations were held in a log school house on the corner of Third and John- son streets, where my young ideas were beginning" to sho(^t, and where at the same school, which was Pen Pictures of Early Western Pays. 29 taught l)v a man by tlie name of Fletcher, were boys who as men became prominent in the affairs of the town. Among these I recall (ieorge E. and Henry Kill)onrne, James Daugherty, William Oldenburg. Edward Brown. \^alenc()urt Still well. Of girls there were Margaret Stillwell. Sarah Marinda John- stone, Zilpha Pooler. Amarilla McCain and Mar- garet Billings. T only remember the name of one preacher and that \\as Pliny Hatchet who was an elder of the Campl)ellite church, as they were then called. The ministers were itinerant, mostly j\Ieth- odist and Christian. The choir for all these meetings was composed of the Wycoff family, the father and five or six white haired urchins, to which I always added my voice, not wishing to be outdone or take a back seat. 'J'he postoffice was established about 1848 or ]84(). At the time of which I write E. \\. I'deck was postmaster. It was kept in a frame building on the corner of First and Johnson streets and with it was also carried on a general store. I remem1)er paying there a verv precious quarter of a dollar for the first letter I ever receixed; postage was somewhat of an item then. The first Fourth of July celebration in the vil- lage was that of 1843. The citizens built an harbor on First street, extending north from the postoffice about seventv feet, under whicli was set a long table, 30 Fen Pictures of Early ll'esleni Pays. All sorts of pi"ovisi()ns were contributed, an ox was roasted and sumptuous dinner served to all who would partake. Cannon \\ere fired, spread-eagle speeches were made and the military company got- ten up for the occasion marched to the music of fife and drum with eagles in their eyes, firing my youthful heart with patriotism. The dear old flag was drawn to the top of a tall liberty pole which blossomed like Aaron's rod in its unfurling. A great bonhre was lighted as the sun went down and the da}- closed in a blaze of glory. About the year 1840 was erected the Rapids Ilotel on \\'ater street at the foot of Blondeau. By some mismanagement it was |)lace(l directly in the middle of the street, a two storv building" with long porches facing the ri\'er. ddie hotel was kept by \\'illiam Coleman whose wife was a relative of D. W. Kilbourne. It was here that the memorable champagne supper and party were given by Henry DeLouis on the occasion of his marriage to Eliza- beth Hunt, which cost the poor Frenchman all the money he possessed. The t()i)ographv of the place has been entirely changed bv the grading of the streets and cutting down of the hills, so that an old settler looking over Keokuk w(juld scarcely be able to recognize the place. There was a deep ravine running directly across Main street near Ninth street, tlixiding the town in two. o\er which was a wide bridge. The Pen Pictures of Early Western Days. 31 west end was called Cataragus. The hills near the river have also heen graded and cut down many feet. The drixe now known as Grand avenue w(nind around the edge of the 1)luff commanding a magnificent view, which is n«j\x- considered one of the finest on the Mississippi river. One of the most interesting and heautiful local- ities in the old days was the Painted Rocks, which have never Ijeen written of and which no one seems to remember. Beginning at the . foot of Johnson and \\'ater streets was, and still is, a low bluff some seventv-five feet in height extending down the ri\er for half a mile. It was quite perpendicular on the river side, with a smooth face of white lime- stone, the entire surface of which was covered with l>ictures painted in bright colors of men, beasts and birds with hieroglyphics running through it all, seeming to tell a story of long forgotten days. It was never deciphered and the Indians knew nothing about it. \\'ind and weather had no eft'ect upon it, but the hand of man soon spoiled its beauty when stone was needed for improvement although there was plenty to be had in other localities. In high water the waves washed the base of the bluff but generally there was a fine pel)bly l)each with an occasional bolder; it was a lovely spot, a favorite resort of the citizens on summer evenings. ]\Iany times 1 have strolled aJong the smodtli shdre withmy aunt and cousin and watcherotege of Mrs. Gaines, with the avowed object of protecting the citizens but in realit}' for (|uite the reverse. No one's affairs was exempt from their interference and an almost unbearable state of things existed. On one occasion the clothesline of L. B. Fleak had been robbed of the week's washing. The vigilants went to work ostensibly to ferret out the offender. Sev- eral different parties were accused of the theft but proved their innocence. At this juncture a man from some where up the country came to town on his way to St. Louis. He was at once pointed out as the criminal and ncjtified to leave town before sundcjwn or be lynched that night. Dr. Galland, who was not at all in sympathy with the vigilants. decided to protect the stranger; accordingly he hunted up the man who was walking' 36 Pen Pictures of Early Western Days. on the bank of the river lookino' anxiouslv for a steamlioat. The Doctor accosted him, savinj^": "M}- friend, do yon know that yon are snspected of being a thief and in danger of l^eing- horsewhipped tonight?''" ddie man rephed : ""S^es. Init T oniv came to the town tliis morning and 1 am perfectly inno- cent: \\liat can 1 do to protect m}'self?"" It was then al)ont fonr o'ckjck in the afternoon. "W'elk" said my nncle. "I can only give }'on a roll or carpet on which to sleep, bnt if yon wish to go home with me I will [M'otect yon till morning when there will probably be a boat here." The man \ery gladly ac- cepted the kind offer and came home with my nncle who told my annt what he had done and that there might be tronble. The honse was not finished, only two rooms being ready for occupancy and there were quite a number of steps up to the front door. As night came on my uncle sent his son down to the levee, heackjuarters of the gang, to reconnoiter; returning he reported great excitement and threats of \engeance against Dr. Gal land for interfering in their proposed sport; that thirty or forty men were coming up to take the man or tear the house down in the attempt. We children were sent into the back room, the door being left open so \\e could see what was going on. Idierc was no light in the house it being a bcautiftil moonlight night. M\' uncle took his posi- licn on the highest step at the front door, my Fen Pictures of Early JJ'csfcni Ihys. 37 aunt stood beside witli the stranjo-er jnst inside awaiting developments. Aliont nine o'clock a crowd of men appeared coming- np First from Alain street, armed with pikes and grapling- hooks to demolish the small honse if necessary. Arriving at the front of the house they halted and for a few minutes there was a dead silence; then the leader. Dr. Hogan, said: "Dr. Galland, we have come for that scoundrel you have here." "Well," replied the doctor, "there is a man here who says he had only been in town a day and is perfectly innocent of what you accuse him ; I be- lieve he is, and I propose to protect hini till morn- ing when he will go on his way. It is an outrage for you to punish him without reliable evidence. If you w-ant him you will have to come and take him, but I warn you that the first man who enters this house it will be over my dead lx>dy." And im- mediately he took out his re^'olver and an immense bowie knife and flashed it in the moonlight. There was a short consultation in low tones when the spokesman said: 'A\'el1, doctor, we do not want to harm you but have come for that man and must have him." "Very well," replied the doctor, "come and get him." And then he proceeded to give them a piece of his mind, and as his conmiand of lan- guage was proverbial they received the full benefit. He then asked for some of the ring leaders in the committee but most of them had fallen by the way- 3(^ Pen Pictures of Early Wrslcni Pays'. side on the march ii]). He then gave them some more plain English and while he berated them thev hegcln one by one to slink away and shortly the handfnl left went hack to their lair more rapidly than the}- came. As they went (;nt of sight the honse was shnt np. the man given his roll of carpet and the family went to bed and slept the sleep of the just. The next morning a boat came, my nncle escorted the stranger to it and he went on his way rejoicing. But the end was not yet. There was resident in town just one negro named John who had been a slave belonging to a wealth}' farmer in Missouri by the name of Mitchell. John was a most reliable negro. He had bought his freedom from his former master and had about six hundred dollars laid by in his trunk with which to buy his wife. The vigilants at once turned their attention to John as he seenied easy prey, accusing him of the theft and ordering him to leave town; his trunk was searched and his money taken and the poor negro was in terrible straits. One evening my uncle walked down to the 1e\-ee, not knowing of the trouble till he reached the scene, where he found Dr. Hogan horsewhipping John with the crowd looking- on, not one lifting a hand to protect h.im. 'Sly uncle always carried a stout cane and lie immediately stepped up to Hogan and began laying it on most vigorously, ordering him to let the Pen Piciinrs of Early U'cstcru Days. 39 poor negTo alone. Xn one came to the rescue of the ruffian and he for once in his hfe received a merited punishment. After giving" him a severe cha.stisement Dr. Galland talked long and earnestly to the men. telling them what a liad reputation the place was having ahroad from such outrages, and appealing to their hetter nature to redeem them- selves and help huild up a town in which it would he a pride and pleasure to live. That he wished to live amicably with his neighbors, but did not intend to stand by and witness any more such out- rages, that there were other means to deal with oft'enders besides lynching, but if it was to be a constant tight he proposed to take a hand. There was no more lynching, but threats of vengence against Dr. Galland were like mutterings of distant thunder that did not materialize. Poor John, how- ever, left town the next day carrying an empty trunk. 40 Pen PicUtrcs of Parly U'rsfcni Davs. CHAPTER yj. S )et there had heen ikv (hvision of the half hreed land and the titles heing" in such an nnsettled state caused untold tron])le. Each half-l)reed ownino- an un- divided interest, which in their ignorance or dishonesty they sold repeatedly to different peo- ple, creating- great confusion and endless litigation. Many peo])le had settled on the land hoping to get a good title later. The r^ecree. a plan for dividing the land, had heen gotten u]). hut the settlers and those left out of the Decree on one side, and those favoring" the l^ecree on the other, \\ere in a constant state of tur- moil, and as a consequence much enmit}- existed. Tn an effort to ameliorate the conditions com- missioners were appointed, who upon not receiving their salaries, sued the owners of the land and ob- tained a judgment against the whole half-breed tract, some one hundred and nineteen thousand acres. This judgment was sold to Hugh T. Reid who in attempting' to enforce his claims received some pretty rough treatment. On one occasion he was chased into the Des Moines river and came near drowning, but was rescued and rode into Keo- Pen Piciurcs of Early JJ'rstcni nays. 41 ki(k liatless \\itli his coat torn from his iKick. Ex- citement ran hii^h. mass meetings were lield and money contrilmted to opjjose the Decree in the courts hut without avail, and it was ratified l)y their decision in 1841. 'Fhis settled the titles and (|uieted the ti'(»ul)le to a certain extent. Much money was paid to different parties to prevent them from bring- ing lawsuits to enforce their claims, but the half- l)reed ghost, as some one has called it, would not down for years. vSo much litigation naturally attracted lawyers and the place became noted for the remarkable abil- ity of the members of that profession, many -of whom became prominent in the affairs of the nation; and we refer with pride to such men as Gen. S. R. Curtis, Judge Samuel F. Miller. Gen. John W. Noble, George W. McCrary, Maj. John W. Rankin. J. G. Wlckersham. Gen. William \\\ Belknap, Judg"e James AI. Love and Judge George H. \\'illiams, be- sides many others, some of whom made out their first l>riefs in the courts of Lee county. The medical profession was also well repre- sented by skillful ])ractitioners, earliest among them being Dr. Isaac Galland, Dr. F. M. Collins, Drs. Hover and Hains, and a few years later Dr. John F. San ford who first established the Keokuk Med- ical College in 1849, '^'i'^ '^ y^'^^' loiter Drs. McGugin and J. C. Hughes. Lhe luercantile business was represented by meii 42 Pen Pictures of Earlv ]Vesten\ Da\s. of honor and integrity. Abrani Chittenden ruid W'ilHani AIcGavic were the pioneers, to l)e closely followed by Ainsworth & Dierdorf. and C (larber. Idiere were few advantag-es here aside from the district school. ^Meantime, 1 had attended one of these taught by Mrs. ^[organ Anderson, the wife of the Sheriff, on Main near Third; also one taught by George A. Hawley at the head of High and First streets, where I never tired of feasting my eyes on the magnificent view from this point. Tn June, 1845, ^ ^^"'^s sent by my guardian, Ben- jamin F. Alarsh, of Warsaw, 111., to St. Louis where T attended Edg-eworth Seminary, not returning' to Keokuk until October, i(S48. Remarkable changes had taken place, and in- stead of the small town I had left was quite a pre- tentious little city. There had been built numerous homes, some (|uite elegant. The l)es Moines Improvement Companv had been organized bringing" to the town such men as ^^'illiam Leighten, Guy Wells, William Timberman, John McCune and some others. Although the en- terprise was not a success the\' made their homes in Keokuk ever afterwards. Sexeral of them built beautiful houses of the stone taken from the Des Moines river quarries; namely, Guy \\"ells one on the corner of Sixth and Timea streets. John Mc- Cune one on Third and Franklin, Gen. S. R. Curtis, who besides being a talented lawyer was interested Pen Pictures of Early JJ'rstrni Pays. 43 in this improxement, one on tlie south side of Sec- ond and High streets. Rev. Williams had also erected the stone octagon house on the north corner of the same streets, establishing a young ladies' sem- inar}- there; later it was sold to Mr. F. C. Davis for a residence. Of brick houses there were quite a number. Ly- man E. Johnstone had erected one on the corner of Second and Concert streets. William AIcGavic one near the corner of the same streets. John Clegliorn a brick on Second between Blondeau and Concert, T. W. Claggett one on the corner of Third and High. Edward Kilbourne one at the corner of Sec- ond and A [organ. G(n-ernor Lowe one at the corner of Third and Fulton. General Belknap one adjoin- ing. James F. Death one at First and Exchange, and Capt. J. C. Ainsworth a brick cottage on First street between Blondeau and concert. Of frame houses there were quite a number. Dr. E. R. Ford had put up a very pretty Gothic cottage on Blondeau between Third and Fourth. Gen. V. P. Van Antwerp one on High between the same streets. Dr. J. C. Hughes one on Second and Exchange, Dr. Gal land one on Exchange. General Bridgeman one on First and High. Ross B. Hughes one at First and Bank, S. F. Miller one at Third and High, A. H. Heaslip a brick cottage on Second below Timea, and H. T. Reid had not only moved his familv here from Fort Madison. l)ut brought 44 J^^^ii Picfinrs of F.arly JJ'csfcni Days. Ills lioiise also, quite a gocn] sized frame of two stories, on flat l)oats and taken it up to the corner of Third and Higli where he lived in it for several years, until ju(l£;-nient titles made him sufficiently wealthy to huild a fine hrick residence, or rather commence one. inr it was never finished. The Veranda, a large brick building, was erected on Johnson street for a Court House, and in that the Postoffice was located with Col. A\'illiam Pat- terson as postmaster. On Concert street was built a curious frame structure by Governor Lowe and a man by the name of Hummer, the plan of which was said to be given by spirits. It was used as a residence for their families, for a Presbyterian church on Sundays, and for spiritual seances during the week, with a resident medium named Marv Alar- grave who made some wonderful revelations. The Market House was sitated on Second street, open below with the city hall above, where public meetings were held as well as public entertainments. Two (H- three churches had been built: A Presbv- terian on the alley between Blondeau and Concert on Second, and a Alethodist on Fourth and Exchange. The Rapids Hotel had been taken down and the material sold to John Burns who rebuilt it on Blon- deau between First and Second, where it is still standing. Two^ newspapers were being published, the Des Moines Valley Whig, edited by James B. Howell, and the Keokuk Post, bv a man named Pen Pictures of Early U'cstcni Days. 45 Reese, lliere were two drug' store, one kept by Dr. Boise and one ])y Mr. Ayres and his son Horace Ay res. The hotels were also two in number, one at Fifth and Main kept by Airs. Giger; and the fashionab/e hotel, the McFadden House, kept by a family of that name on Water street between Main and Johnson. The Laclede Hotel was l)uilding but was not opened until about 1850. Wholesale stores were already being established, Clegiiorn & Harrison, and Burns & Rentgen groc- ers ; with Cox & Shelly in dry goods. While in retail there were P. D. Foster and Samuel Stark- wather, dry goods, and S. Hamill grocers; with Capt. C. l\ Conn, Harry Fulton and A. H. Heaslip clothiers. And pork packing, which was an im- portant business, had as representatives J. F. Death and Frank Rav. 46 Pen Pictures of Early ircslcni Days. CHAPTER VII. ^ --^ -^1?- Ih d. _^p| HE society was good and as usual in a new country very gay with gallant men and many elegant women, almost e\ery state in the union being represented — men were largely preponderant. Par- ties were of frequent occurrence and could be gotten up on short n(lford, Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Anderson, Mr. and ]\lrs. J. E. Darst, Dr. and Mrs. Boice, Mr. and Mrs. Harry Eulton and ]\Ir. and Mrs. Bridgeman ; and ni single men I recall Frank Bridgeman, J. Lafe Curtis, Daniel Cramm, James E. Cox, Dr. Duree, Capt. Charles Mor- rison, William S. and Henry Ivins, Dr. Sullivan, Leroy McGavic, C. E. Davis, Joel Mathews, J. P. Keede, C. E. Stone, Ross B. Hughes, Charles Brad- ford and many others. There were many very pretty girls, some of them lieautiful. Of these I will mention Mary J. Hughes and Ellen Cole, two of the handstmiest girls ever in Keokuk. There was much sociabihly between Warsaw and Keokuk, especially in winter when the river was frozen cjver; as soon as the ice was strong Pen Pictures of Early Western Days. 49 enoui^h some one would l)reak a road and sleighing- j)ai ties were of frequent occurrence with supper and dancino- at the Warsaw House. There was good sleighing- on both the ri\-er and shore for three months of the winter 1848-49. Tiiere was also a large sleighing party to Ft. Madison, where we danced and stayed all night at the hotel kept by Col. C. H. Perry, \\ho afterwards l)ecame a resident of Keokuk. At least three weddings grew out of that sleighride and one or two that were in anticipation were indefinitely postponed. In 1850 the ferry between Keokuk and Hamil- ton was established and the dike was built, but as }et the town of Hamilton was only in name. Rail- roads ^\■ere thought of but not built and the only means of travel was by the river or in the old Con- cord coaches, which carried man}- a weary passen- ger over roads almost impassable. I recollect a trip I made from Burlington to \Varsaw in the spring of 1848. I was just a school girl traveling alone. We left Burlington in a great lumbering coach at four o'clock in the morning, with nine passengers on the inside with four horses attached. The mud was hub deep; sev- eral times we were nearly mired down and the ve- hicle had to be pried out with rails. We did not reach Keokuk until nine o'clock that night, were driven at once to the wharf where a steamboat was just ready to start down the river. 1 asked the 50 Pen Pictures of Early Western Pays. agent, ]\rr. Daniel Hine, to take me on board, paid a dollar for mv passage and reached Warsaw at eleven o'clock that night more dead than alive, as I had been ^ick all day from the rolling of the coach. In 1848 the honse on the corner of First and Johnston street, bnilt by James Tvins, was sold by him to his l)rother, Charles Ivins. who remodeled it into a hotel, having leased to a ]Mr. Emery, who died bef(MX getting it into rnnning order, leaving his widow with small means. Mr. Ivins kindly released her of the responsibility and while waiting f(3r a tenant kept the honse oi)en himself, his son. William S. h'ins, taking temporary charge. As time went on no renter was fonnd and Mr. Charles Ivins" family kept the honse themselves for almost fonr years, giving it the name of the h'ins Honse. It was a most comfortable place for the times, ^lany of the old residents pnt np there on their first arrival in town. I conld name forty or fifty promi- nent men who made their first home in Keokuk at the I\ins Honse. Many young men boarded there and it was very lively with parties, rides, walks and other amusements. In 1855 it was sold to a man by the name of Bunnel who kept it for a number of years. Steamboats were really more numerous then than tbev are at present. A line of elegant packets had been established l)etween here and St. Louis^ /'('// ricturcs of Early Western Days. 51 one of which was a reniarkalile blower and was quite appropriately named the Boreas, whose escape puff could be heard from Canton, twenty miles away; this may seem incredible but it is absolutely true; I have heard it many times and oft. Most of the others could be heard four or five miles ; it was before the introduction of steam whistles and thev \\cre all high pressure engines. AA'eddings were of frequent occurrence here, but many of the young men went away "for the girls they left behind them." Mrs. Emery opened a boarding house on Second street between Main and Johnson streets, and here it was quite the fashion for the newly married people to board. Among these I remember Capt. C. F. Conn and wife, Mr. and Mrs. Charles McDonald, Mr. and Mrs. J. W. Rankin, Judge and ]\Irs. James M. Love, Capt. Chariest Morrison and wife, and Mr. and Mrs. Gil- bert Comstock, besides some others not so vouthful who made their first married home with Mrs. Emery. Mr. and Airs. Abram Chittenden and jMr. and Mrs. A\^illiam McGavic lived in apartments over their store on Water street. The}- were leaders in much of the gaiet}-, in most of which I partici- pated imtil our departure for the West, four years after my marriage to Air. William S. Ivins. :i- Pcii Pictures of Early H'cslcni Days. CHAPTER VIII. [XOTABLE ei)och was marked in the history (jf the United States by the openino- of Cahfornia to settlers, and in the }-ear 1849 the (hscovery of gold made the emigration great, bnt in the year 1853 ^^""^ exodus of enthusiastic emigrants from the states to the Pacific slope had reached its height. Not only had the wonderful gold deposits of California been de- veloped, but the remarkable agricultural resources of the ^\■hole western slope had been demonstrated and an all absorl)ing interest in that far off Eldorad(^ and land of sunshine per\'ade(l the entire country, more marked perhaps throughout the AIississipi)i valley where thousands looked longingly towards that Golden Sunset Land, finally to turn resolutely ^^^estward Ho, all undaunted by the besetting dan- gers of the o\-erland journey or the perils of the tedious voyage around Cape Elorn. Among these mv husband and I decided upon the former mode of travel as l)eing the quicker and perhaps less dan- gerous. Blessed with the fearlessness of youth we started braxeh' forth to seek fortune and a new home with but slight conception of the dangers, difficulties and Pen Pictures of Early U'cslerii Ihiys. 53 hardships we were to encounter and knowing httle of the sterner reahties of hfe upon tlie more remote frontier. Tlie time of our departure was in the spring of the year as early as the weatlier would permit. The pre\-ious winter months were spent hy my- self in hnsy pre])arations for the journey, in con- triving suitable clothing for my husband, myself and for my little boy of a year old and in putting up such preserves, pickles and other delicacies as could be kept to become most accei)table when after- wards compelled to partake of cold meals as we often were throughout our trip. Aside from these the provisions were such as were used in army life and consisted of ham, bacon, smoked beef and venison, crackers, hard bread and flour, tea. coffee and sugar, beans, rice, lard and butter, molasses, ^■inegar and other condiments. No vegetables were taken, the process of canning being then unknown, but a large fruit cake was put in for high feasts, together with wine, brandy and medicine. My husband occupied most of the winter in pur- chasing a drove of cattle and such horses as he would need, in breaking oxen to the yoke and in fitting up the wagons of the outfit, three in number, which w^ere worthy of description. They were strong and heavy, not unlike those in present use on the farm and often met with on 54 Pen Pictures of Early JVrslcrn Days. countr}' roads. The wai^on boxes were divided into conipartnieiits and packed with tlie suppHes not in daily use, and al)ove these they were floored or decked o\er. d'o these decks were attached the l)ows upon which were stretched hea\y (hick covers. To this extent the wagons were identical, ex- cepting mine, which was called the house wagon, to which a more extended description will he ac- corded later. The baggage wagon was stored with bedding and articles in daily use consisting mainly of the camping outfit, tent, stove, etc., extra yokes and chains with two large cans for carrying water on the desert. These with the additionof the drov- ers' l)aggage filled every a^'ailable space. The second wagon was reserved to the use of Dr. and Mrs. Galland, my uncle and aunt, who had decided at a late moment to accompany us, being unwilling that I should undertake the journey with no other woman in the party. This was made as comfortable as possible, in fact quite cosy. The third, the house wagon, differed only from the oth- ers only in construction of the decking which ex- tended out over the wheels, making the interior quite roomy. Its width accommodated a large hair mattress and bed with pillows, bolsters, etc. Back of these at the head of the bed was room for a side saddle and a large box for clothing, which could be used for a tal)le when meals were taken in the wagon. .\t the forward end was a wide spring seat Pen Pictures of Early IVcstcrn Pays. 55 with cushions and 1)iiffal() rohcs. The forward coni- l)artment beneath the deck was made reaihly acces- sil)le ])}■ means of a trap door, where we always kept some provisions and such articles as mii^-ht be needed in an emergency, with a small can of water sufficient for two days' consumption. The back board was arranged to let down with chains so as to form a cupboard ^^•herein were stored provisions for dail}- use, and was most convenient wdien pre- paring meals. The wagon top was lined with thick comforts making it impervious to wind and weather, and from the center swung a large lantern. Along the sides were long boxes like window gardens where were kept sewing materials and A-arious odds and ends dear to the housewife's heart. Above these suspended to the bows by straps hung a shot gun with tiasks and horns of amunition. The fire arms were kept loaded until an accidental discharge of the guii engendered a greater degree of caution, but of this more anon. We are yet many days and hundreds of miles from this point in our chronicle, and it were ill to anticipate. By the first of ,\pril everything was in readi- ness and the party made up, consisting of my uncle and aunt, my husband and myself and little boy, five drovers and a young- German cook ; in all ten adults and one child. Some few days were spent in arranging the last details and on the fifth of the month the start was made. 56 Pen Pictures of Early Western Days. Tlie (lay ^\■as anything l)nt ausi)ici()iis, the chill east \\ ind blew a gale and the occasional gleams of sunshine that struggled through the dull and leaden sky only served to accentuate the glooiiiy and bleak desolation that pervaded the scene. lUit the hearts of the little band were brave and hopeful and the farewells were cheerily said. The wagons were started in the forenoon in charge of the men going out some ten miles to a point where the cattle were herded, and my uncle and aunt with JNIr. Ivins and myself and baby boy went out later to spend the night at the farm house and be read}- for an early- start in the morning. The following" morning, April sixth, the regular line of march was taken up and the e\-entful journey of many months of danger, hardship and privation was well under way. Heading the little train was the house wagon, then followed respectively the wagon of my uncle and aunt, the baggage wagon and lastly the cattle, a hundred of them with the drovers in the saddle. Everything was new and bright and during the first few days presented quite an imposing appearance. The roads were almost impassable ; for weeks it had rained almost unremittingly and they had become rivers and lakes of mud and mire that be- came worse as the train pushed on. Ten miles a day was the greatest possible distance made, and half the time Avas spent in doubling teams, which Pen Pictures of Early JJ'estcni Days. 57 woaild make ten yoke of oxen to a wag-on. to ])n11 them out of the mud holes and ruts while the rain came down in torrents. The train halted at night where good pasture could be obtained for the stock, the family stopping- at farm houses with the drovers camping', for whom Carl, the (German cook, prepared meals. (3n Sunday. Ai)ril ninth, we reached Oskaloosa. the drive through town being made as the church bells were ringing for morning ser^•ice. The sound filled my heart with longing for friends at home who were worshiping in the dear little church which would know us no more for years, but no regrets were spoken and we mo\-ed on at a snail's pace. To add to the general depression my little lx)y was attacked with congestion of the lungs and the train laid by at a place called What Cheer with but small hopes of his recovery, but fortunately mv uncle was a skillful physician and brought him through when death seemed almost inevitable. We were not comfortable at the inn and my uncle thought best to move on and carry the little one on a pillow, so we proceeded on our wa}'. some one walking and carrying him for many days. How- ever, the change seemed to be of benefit and he re- covered rapidly. 5^ Pen ricluvcs of Early Jl'rstcni Pays. CHAPTER IX. TIE State of Iowa is tlirce liiiiidred miles across, the road IcadinL^" up a di\ide lietween two or tliree inland streams and tlirough a fine country, but still made dreary by the cold rains of the early spring. Passing farms and villages, fording creeks and fer- rying rivers, April seventeenth we reached the Fa- bian ri\er, where for the tirst time it was necessary t(j camp and sleep in the wagons. Here Mr. Ivins found.it advisable to substitute fresher oxen, for those driven were very tired. It was distressing to witness the struggles of the poor beasts to keep from being yoked, but after hours of hard work it was accomplished and we drcnxn down a steep hill ex- pecting to ford the stream and dri\-e right on. What was our disappointment, however, to find the river so swollen ]>y the rains as to be impassable except in a dug out made of a hollow log. Here was a di- lemma : fortunately the cattle could swim and some of the men had to do the same in order to keep them together, but how to get the wagons and fam- ily over was the question. However. 'Sir. I\ins soon (le\-ise(l a wav. Unloading the lumber wagon he launched it like Pen Pictures of Early Western Days. 59 a boat, then taking the family in it he towed it some distance up the stream and floated it across guided 1)}- himself in the dug out. In this way by many successive .trii)s the wIkiIc outht was gotten over. It was sundown when the last load was landed. My uncle, who was not much of a water man. was thrown into the stream h}' the upsetting of the dug out early in the fray, but fortunately with no serious consequences. The fire was made and Carl got supper while ni}- aunt and I made the beds and cared for the baby for the night, and a more weary party ne\-er sought their downy couches. The next few days were quite monotonous, the usual routine in camp and the steady gait of the oxen on the rc^ad brought us to Council Bluffs April twenty-first where we stopped a short distance out of the town pasturing the drove, while the family staid at the farm house and the men camped in the yard. Here we remained nine days. Not being' suited with his help, Mr. Ivins changed here for an entirely new set of men, all excepting Carl, and the final preparations were made, for our road now lay beyond civilization. After a good rest at Council Bluff's we were quite ready for the forward mo^'e and on the morn- ing of May first the little train was again in motion, driving through the streets of the town and across the wide flat to the Missouri river to be ferried over. 6o Pen Pictures of Early U'cstcni Days. On reaching the Hat we fcnmd. h()\\e\-er, that tliere were at least five InuKh'ed wagons before ns with thonsands of cattle waiting to cross and were told that we mnst wait onr tnrn. which probably wonld not come for several da\s. Mv hnshand was in no mood for waiting, so watcliing his opportunit}- he rnshed in while some slower per- son was getting ready and before night we were on the Nebraska side and made onr camp where the city of Omaha is now sitnated. To celebrate our fortunate start we killed a fine calf and feasted on the last fresh meat we had for three months, except- ing occasionally when some one would kill a jack rabbit or a sage hen, although they were not very plentiful. At an early hour on the morning- of May second we took up our line of march toward the Golden West on the broad well beaten road, which was lined with vehicles of every description, cattle, horses, sheep and mules with men. women and chil- dren walking to save the beasts of burden. We were almost always in sight of trains for the first five hundred miles, further on as the roads branched off leading to different i)oints or passes we were more alone. It was a bright, beautiful morning and our cour- age was renewed h\ liaA-ing made so successful a start west of the Alissouri river. After luncheon ]Mr. Tvins went ahead to arrange al)out crossing the Pen I'iciiircs of Early U'rslcni Days. 6r Elk H(jni ri\cr, whicli is the first branch (if the Platte on the north side, as onr road A\as to take ns that way. lie also would look for a convenient campinj^' ground for the night. He had been gone l)ut a short time when the sky became o\'ercast and a fearful storm arose with wind, rain and hail which came down in torrents. The train had to be stopped and the oxen turned around to be sheltered b\- the wagons, while the men crept under them \ov i)ro- tection. I was lying down with m}- little boy un- heeding the storm and was singing as was m}- usual habit, but could hear the poor dro\-ers below me complaining' and bewailing" their lot in no mild terms. Suddenly one of them exclaimed, "By George! if she ain't a singin'." Aly song ceased at once: not so ^^■ith the storm which lasted over an hour : then the sun came out and we proceeded on our journey but did not reach Elk Horn till after dark, where we found Air. Ivins waiting for us and anxious at our delay. He had selected a good camp ground and we were soon arranged for the night, but had to be content with a cold supper as we had nothing for fuel, b'rom this on for hundreds of miles our only fuel was sage brush and bulYalo chips which are anything but pleasant to burn. .As soon as Air. Ivins came into the wagon he said: "Well, whom do }(iu think are here? The Crams. 1 ha\e just come from their tent ^\ here 1 left Mrs. Cram with her dress tucked up around 62 Pen Pictures of Early Western Days. her slatxling- on the only dry spot in the tent hohUnij^ a bird cage and the girl trying to get supper." Now the Cram train had l)een a source of much worry to me and so deserves a s])ecial exi)1anation. Pen Pic hires of Early H'cslcni Pays. 63 CHAPTER X. T\. Cram's train consisted of a party from our home town of Keokiiiv and was composed of six per- sons besides drivers and serv- ants. Tlie}' were Mr. and Mrs. Cram, Mr. and Mrs. George, and r\lr. and Mrs. Neuse. The first two ladies were sisters and had been dear friends of mine from childhood. Dur- ing the winter we had planned to go west together. But as Mr. Ivins arranged to take a drove of cattle and Mr. Cram wanted to go with horses and spend less time on the trip, we gave up traveling together, only promising to see as much of each other as possible on the first part of the journey, but of course later on we would be far behind. Three months would be the limit to their tri]), while to ours there was none, with ever}' prospect of a tedious journey. The contrast was just as great between our mode of preparation, ddieir train consisted of three large heavy covered spring wagons painted black, such as were used by the old stage lines for mud w-agons in winter. They were somewhat like an ambulance but opened at the side with the driver's scat in front. There were folding Ijcds inside, 64 Pen Pictures uf Early U'cstcni Days. leavini;" room for small chairs and sewing' tables, work baskets, bird cai^es and prett}- knick knacks around; and the women were tastefnll}- dressed, and had a g'ood girl to do the cooking, and taking all together they were very stylish. ]\lr. Crani rode a white mule \\ith jingling accutrements, and they had an elegant marcjuee tent and camp ecpiipage which was carried in a lumber wagon, and all were drawn by fine horses ; and really they were "no end of swell," and the contrast worried me not a little. The ladies of the [jarty did not cross the state of Iowa in the wagons, but went to St. Louis by boat and thence up the Missouri riAcr on the large steamer Kentucky which was owned b)' Airs. Cram's father, he taking it to Council Bluffs to l)e used as a ferry boat during the rush of emigration. They had been at Council Bluffs two weeks. Their journey so far had l>een a pleasure trip (^nly, as thev had remained on the boat waiting for the water to' sul)side. Their wagons were ferried across the same dav with ours, but l^efore noon They had driven out as far as Elk HcM^n where they were again waiting their turn to be ferried over. This might not come for days as there were hundreds there before them Wciiting for the same thing. The river had overflowed its banks and the water extended for miles on the other side i>f the river. So far we seemed the ukm'c fortunate, and 1 (|uitc congratulated m}sclf thai my house was Pen Pictures of Early JJ\'slcni Days. 65 at least dry, althiiui;h it had only a duck a^ver. My little Dutchman was becoming- most reliable and trustworthy and not at all afraid of the \\eather. While on the road he took care of my little boy, and in camp took entire charge ; and I will say now that he was a true, faithful friend when friends were scarce, ne\-er faltering in his affectionate care for me and mine. May success and hapi)iness attend him wherever he may be. W'e retired early and after a good night's rest awoke bv times in the morning; upon looking out I saw a perfect sea of white wagon tops and exclaimed: "Oh! Ave shall be so long waiting our turn to be ferried over." ]My husband replied : "I do not intend to wait," and started out to recon- noiter ; soon returning in great haste, he said : "If you will hurry we can get across before any one else is ready." Things were just thrown into the wagons, and we were so fortunate as to be the first to be ferried, because we were for once the early birds. Mr. Ivins then went back and had the cattle driven into the stream some distance below^ w here, by keeping them away from the shore, they at last struck out for the other side, soon reaching- it in safety, where the drovers herded them till the wagons were ready to start. We drove on about h\c miles to high ground where we camped for the rest of the day, but no Cram train came in sight for four or live days. The 66 Pen Pictures of Early U'rslcrii Paxs. next stream to cross was Loup J'"oi"k, the second longest 1)rancli of the Platte; this we did, however, without ditticulty. The cattle had learned what was expected of them when driven into the water, and at once made for the other shore where we cam])ed for that nig'ht. The morning' of r\Iay hfth saw us mo\-ing on at the usual rate of ahout twenty-five miles a dav. We stopped at noon for luncheon after which I decided to ride on horse hack, wdiich I often did in the earlier stages of the journey. ]\Iy uncle rode most of the time, so I always had company. After I had mounted Mr. Ivins asked me to go and start up some of the drove which had lagged. The horse knew just h were quite skeptical and were sure that a clump of green some distance from the road must be trees, so we proceeded to investigate, riding off in great glee. It proved to be a ledge of rocks covered with bushes, and to our consternation an immense gray wolf A\-alked out to meet us. \Yt were not sIoav in getting back to the road, quite A\illing in the future to accept the guide book. The w hole country as far as the eye could reach was composed of low sand hills covered with coarse grass, cactus and sage brush, Avith the Platte on one side, along whose banks the road led most of the time. A\'e could see the emigrant trains on the road on the south side of the river. On one occasion, looking across we saw a large herd of buffalo come rushing down a hill towards the river, trampling down l3oth train and people in its mad career, and on into the river before they could escape. Many 68 Pen Piclurcs of Early Ji'cslcni Days. persons must lia\e been injured, but we could not ascertain if such a\ ere the case. The I'latte is a most ]jeculiar ri\er. ( )n stoo]i- in^- down and looking" across tlie water seems to round up hke an o\'er-hlled goljlet, and has a smoky taste like Inickskin tanned l)y the Indians. We were in the midst of the rainy season, and ever\- afternoon were treated to the most terrific thunder storms I e^■er witnessech which came up al>ont four o'clock, the thunder and lightning snap- ping and cracking around like whip c(^rds. Unless we camped earl}- sujiper \\as out of the question, and on many nights a cold eolation had to satisfy us. One night in particular the storm was so violent that the men could not guard the cattle. Since lea\'ing Loup Fork we had been warned to beware of Indians and it was safer to have a guard, but this night it was given u]). AA'e seemed to be right in among the clouds, and in the morning' passed two newl\- made graves of men \\-ho were killed b}- light- ning the night ])efore. We traveled on at the usual rate for several days without incident. Neither Carl r)r I knew how to make bread, and \ve were verv tired of batter cakes and poor, heavy biscuits. One evening we camped near a very nice looking family. The woman was leaking bread and it looked most tempting. I thought, what a fine thing it would be if we could ha\e such bread. .So 1 took coura^'c and crdlcd on m\- neighbor of tlie night to Pen I' id lives of Early U'cslcni Days. 69 ask for information. Slie seemed cjnite willing to teach me and i»a\e me some yeast with instructions how to use it. As I never kept house it was not strange that 1 did not know. We had thrown our stove away and had no way to hake except in a reflector and the w ind alwaws hlew into that wliich- evcr way it came, making things taste of sage, and the lla\-or was an^-thing hut good; all of which I stated in pretty strong terms. She then ottered me a Dutch oven which she said was too large for her use. which I gladly accepted. She also supliecl me with yeast sufficient to last me all summer with care. I went home in triumph; sent Carl after the I^utch o^'en, and at once proceeded to try my hand at the new method. I did just as my kind neighhor directed, and in the morning had two loaves of ele- gant l)read which Carl haked hy making little fires of sage twigs on the lid and under the oven, which did not look as if they were doing any good, but the bread came out a beautiful brown. After that Carl improved on the teacher, made his sponge and Ijread over night, punched it down a little in the morning and baked one loaf while he was getting breakfast and another while we were eating and getting ready to start. I never saw such bread or tasted any as good before, and never expect to again. Upon the whole we were having rather a good time ; were all well, were becoming inured tO' privations, and things were moving along quite satisfactorilv. 70 /'('// ficliirc'S of Early U'cslcni Days. CHAPTER XL Y this time we had readied a point opposite (Iraiid Island, Nel). After a long- day's drive, had camped near the river, snpper Avas ()\-er, the o-uards statione(h and we had all retired with no expectation of danger or harm. All was qniet until about mid- night, when suddenly without any warning" or ap- parent cause, the whole one hundred head of cattle started up, went wild and stampeded, running right over the guards in their frenzy, and were off like the wind. The noise was like the roar of Niagara for a few minutes, and then all was silent. The guards followed and the other men joined in the chase, leaving my uncle and aunt and me cjuite alone in the camp. After hours of running they brought back aliout sixty, all the others having escaped entirelv. There was no more sleep for them or us that night. The poor creatures seemed perfectly terror stricken;, and it took the wdiole force to keep them from rushing off again, ^^'hen daylight came, however, their fears seemed to subside. As soon as it was light in the morning jMr. Ivins prepared to go in search of those that were lost. Selecting his most reliable man, Clark by name, he made ready for l\-}i Picliircs of Rarly Jl'cslrni Pays. yi a three clays' journey. No entreaties of mine could dissuade him and he assured me there was no dan- g'er, hut 1 could not l)e conxinced. After exhaustin.q- all ])crsuasi()n in vain I had Carl ])ut u]) a lirunper of food, as nmch as they could carry, for the horses were so ciMupletely worn out with the nig-ht's chase tliat they were ohliged to j^-o on foot. So takini>' the hamper and a roll of hiankets thev de])arted on their perilous expedition, (loing- directly away from the road they plunged at once into the wild unex- plored countr}', filled with huffalo. wolves and the more terrible hostile Indians. It was with a heavy heart I saw' my husband start on that fearful jour- ne}'. but to him fear was unknown, and he laughed at my anxiety. They soon found the trail of the cattle, which they followed steadily all day, at night sleeping- on the ground. As soon as it was light they resumed their way, at a rapid gait, still keeping their eyes on the ground and beginning to have hopes of overtaking them. They had walked in this way till about four o'clock in the afternoon, when for some cause Mr. Ivins raised his head, and glancing around he saw silently following them five Indians, and exclaimed : "My God, Clark, look at the Indians !" The savages on seeing- that they were discovered, drew up their guns and took aim at the two men. but did not fire, as my husband beckoned to them to come near. They rushed up and danced a war ^2. Pen Piciinrs of Early JJ^'eslcni Days. dance around their prisoners, whooping and velhng- hke mad. Mr. Ivins pretended to tliink them friendly and exi)lained to them Ijv signs that he was hnnting cattle, representing the horns and man- ner of running. They gave liim to understand that they had seen them in a certain direction, and ordered tlie two men to move on with them. My husband refused but they pointed their guns at them again, in a most threatening manner, and lie con- chided that "discretion was tlie l)etter part of valor," so they walked on until the sun was almost down. Again Mr. Ivins halted and signified his intention of having supper, and began building a fire. The In- dians still insisted upon his g'oing on. but he would not look at them and pretended not to understand. As soon as the fire blazed up one of the Indians kicked it out and cocking his gun ordered Mr. Ivins to march in no gentle terms, so on they went till almost dark and the usual storm was arising, hlnally, reaching a small creek where there were willows, they held a council and deciding to camp began cut- ting" willows for a wigwam. Mr. Ivins was hea\"ily armed with a six shooter and large bowie knife and he at once began cutting Avillows, using his bowie knife which was bright and sharp. One of the Indians wanted to take it. Mr. Ivins gave it to him as a matter of course. He examined it closely, then taking a willow sapling cut it into small pieces, exclaiming with every stroke, "Whoo!" After my husband thought he had used it long enough, he Pen Piclurcs of Early JJ'rslcni Pay. 73 look it and ag-ain assisted in 1)iiildino- the wis'wani. Tlie frame w(^rk beino- fmislied they took A[r. Tvins' blankets to hne it and made c|uite a shelter. How- ever, it was small protection against the Nebraska storms. The Indians then examined the ham])er and tdok what food they wanted, discardino- the l)ork, which they called "coche," bnt eating- all Ihc other kinds. Snpper over, they went into the wig- wam taking their prisoners with them, and laid down placing the two men between them. By this time the rain came down in torrents and the water was soon six inches deep where they lay. The Indians with scanty clothing suffered terribly, grunting and groaning constantly. It was as dark as Egypt and as dreary. In the middle of the night, without the slightest apparent cause, thev gave simultaneously the most terrific whoop, and sprang- up dragging their captives out of the wig- wam with the evident intention of dispatching them. As soon as they were released Mr. Ivins told Clark to get back into the wigwam as rapidly as possible, and he did tlie same. One of the Indians remained in the wigwam, and to this circumstance they prob- ably owed their lives at that time, as had they fired into the tent they were in danger of killing their partner. In a little while the rascals crept back and laid down, but there was no more sleep. ^\'hen the sun rose bright and clear thev got up and made a breakfast out of the provisions left in 74 ^t''' Piditrcs of Early JJ\\s^lrni Pays. the hani])cr. but seemed in no luirry to resume their journey. One of their nnml>er amused liimself by representini^' to ^\v. Tvins Imw the\" would shoot and seal]) them, ^oin^" throu,^ii the motic^ns witli ij'reat g'usto. Ah". Kins ])reten(led to think it a joke and lauf^'lied with liini. d"he\' asked how manv times his revoh'er would shoot, and he ex])lained that it was one more times than there were Indians. A I}' husb;md instructed Clark tliat if an attack were made upon them that he should jump at one Indian and gTab his gun, shoot another and that lie would manage the other three. The y\\- lains. however, knew nothing of this. About eleven o'clock in the morning Mr. Ivins made up his mind that it was time to g-et away, so endeavored to make them understand that he nmst go- to his wife and baby on the road. He showed them his ammunition, and proceeded to divide with them, giving to each and shaking the flasks to show that he had gi\'en them an equal share. He also to(jk a paper of pins, which he had in his pocket, giving some to each one; they were so pleased with these, sticking them all over their blankets. He now directed Clark to take down the Ijlankets and roll them up and be read}' to start. One of the Indians wanted part of one of the blankets for leg- gings; upon Clark refusing" to let him have it he liecame greatly enraged. ]\Ir. Ivins seeing this took Pen Picitiirs of lutrly U'cslcni Days. 75 llic hlanket from Clark as if he, too, were offended and cnt in two just as his lionor wanted, i2:ivins- him his choice of tlie pieces, upon whicli he hccame much interested in arranging- them, and went some little distance off. This one seemed to he the chief and was the most o\-erbearing. Mr. I\ins now saw that this was their oppor- tunity, so told Clark to start on and not look hack. As he started my husband .shook hands with each one, said good-bye and walked after his companion. He went rapidly, not looking back for fear of orders to return, but expecting a bullet e^•ery minute; neverthless kept straight on until he was beyond gunshot, when, glancing back, he saw the Indians huddled together talking and wildly gesticulating, all excepting the cross one who was still engaged with his costume. Just then the two men went over a small rise of ground; they immediately started into a run and kept that pace for many miles. AIv husband was convinced that the Indians fully intended to shoot them, but were deterred from doing so by his kindly treatment of them. Of course, if they had looked back and disobeyed orders it would ha\e given an excuse for firing upon them. 76 . Pc}i Pictures of Early JJ\\s'fcrii Pays. CHAPTER X IT. IIJ, (la\- llie two men steadily pnr- sned their way, having" gixen up the idea of going" further to look for the cattle, which were tc")o far away by this time. All da}' they walked over plains and sand hills covered with sage brush and cactus, until their feet ahiiost gave out and their boots became unbearable. Mr. Ivins discarding his walked in his stocking feet till they were worn out. and then in his bare feet, which were filled with the needles of the cactus. Still they toiled on, passing hundreds of l)uffalo who would just look at them, and not quit grazing or even rise if lying" down. j\ir. Ivins had taken his course ttnvards Platte river, guided onlv by the wind. It was a cloudy afternoon and he had no other means (^f judging the points of the compass. A dozen times Clark stopped, refusing to proceed further in that direc- tion, declaring that they were g'ling away from the road, but as niy husband kept on he would follow, not daring to be left alone or wishing" to desert his companion. About nine o'clock that night they found the road, striking" it about hfteen miles ahead of where Pen Pichircs of Early Ji'csfern Days. /y tliev Icfl us. Mr. Ivins directed us 1)et()rc leavin£^ that we sliduld tra\el alxmt li\e miles each da_\- duriin^- liis al)sence. not aiitici])atiiig- the difficuUies tliat would heset us. The first day we had i^one the allotted distance and camped ai^ain on the hank of the river. Supper was over, and as all seemed {[uiet we felt ([uite secure ; hut for fear (^f another stampede we had stationed the wagons at rigiit angles with the river, that forming one side, with chains fastened securely from the wheels of the three, thus making a sort of fence, the open side to he guarded hy the men ; then I had twehe yoke of oxen yoked up and chained to the wheels. Into the hollow sfjuare I had the cattle and horses driven. The guards took their places and the family went to their quarters. I could not sleep, so did n(Jt go to hed and was reading'. Ahout midnight, just as the night hefore, there was a sudden rush, right over the guards and away went the cattle again like the wind. Those chained to the wheels ripped and tore in their mad frenzy, and I thought they would take the wheels off in their terror, l)ut they were securely chained and after a while calmed down. It was not a pleasant experience to he in the wagons while they tugged with such force as to almost pull them to pieces. \\'hen they hecame f[uiet I looked out. Nothing was to be seen or heard hut the breathing of the poor frightened crea- tures ; all the others were gone and the men follow- ing on horses and on foot. Towards morning they 78 Pen Pictures of Early Western Days. came drixing' them all back, none ha\ing t^otten away that night. We had an early breakfast and started, thinking it l)etter to have them on the road than to sta\- in one place. As yet there was no news of n\\ Imsband and I was very uneasy about him. The ])oor ani- mals were nearl}- worn out, so we took a long rest at noon, then made a short tlri\e and camped some distance from the ri\er, quite near the road. That night, with the exception of the regular storm w hich was not severe, was more restful to the most of the train, but my anxiety increased when no word came from m}' husband who was out in that desolate country in such great danger. The next day we made the appointed Ih'e miles. camping as before, but away from the river, near the road. The cattle were becoming more quiet, and we hoped that the worst was over, but before we could have supper the usual storm broke in all its fury. The tent was blown dow. the thunder and lightning' were so terrific that the men could not g'uard the stock, the rain and hail came down in sheets and darkness settled down on us like a |)all. ]\Iy poor husl)and was away with no protec- tion. \vhere I did not know, and my distress cannot be described. If there were only something that I could do it might be some relief, so I tried to keep a beacon light for him, A\ith a lantern raised on a w^agon tongue, which the wind blew down as often as we propped it up. Pen riciurc.s' of Early ircslrni Days. 79 After a ^vhile tlie camp l)ecanie silent and the gloom (leepenetl. .Mone with my baby boy in the wagon I fnlly realized the sitnation, and was certain that I should never see my husband again. As tlie hours W(irc on I became almost frantic. M\' aunt hearing my sobs tried to comfort me with loving words, but both she and my uncle were old people and could not come to me in the fearful storm. ]\Iv senses were unusually acute and about two o'clock I thought that I heard a faint hello. I lis- tened; it Avas repeated, and now surely it was a call. I sprang to the front of my wagon, dashed up the curtain and shouted with all the strength of my not weak lungs, again and again ; and truly it was a call nearer, and I knew the voice of my poor hus- band. It was some little time before they reached the camp, and when he came into the wagon our meeting was very silent. We could not talk then, and it was a long time before he told me of all his dreadful trip and truly wonderful escape. I got out drv clothes for him, l)athed his head, and oiled his face which was blistered, bathed his poor feet, and tried in every way to make him com- fortable. He was utterly worn out, and it took manv days to pick the cactus needles out of his feet. In the morning he told me of his narrow escape, and I said then for the first and only time, "Let us go back ;" but he replied, "No. we will go on to- morrow." So we again took up our journey with 8o Pen Pictures uf Early JVesferu Days. \\Iiat \\as left of our fine herd, thankful to be to- g'ctlicr once more. ^\'e were then nearing Chimney Rock, wliich is an immense shaft of granite resembhng a smoke stack, on the south side of Platte river, in sight of which we traveled five days. The river here makes a great bend, the road still leading up its banks. The cattle were growing footsore and weary and every dav we feared that some of them would give out. The air was filled with odors that were not of "Aral)y the Blest," the road being lined with carcasses of dead animals, and I had to carry my camphor bottle in my hand most of the time. I had a serious cause of anxiety at this time, although not personally concerned. Some stock dealers in California had sent east for ten thousand sheep, which were being driven overland in charge of hired drovers. They had started with them on the south side of the Platte, but finding very poor grass determined to try the other side. At the head of Grand Island, Nebraska, they attempted to swim the sheep across. The flock becoming frightened, rushed onto the island which was under water, and no eft'orts could get them off for twenty-four hours. Standing in the water so long made their feet tender, and as soon as thev stei)[)ed into the alkalie dust thev became .sore and many of the ])<)or creatures laid down in the road, refusing to go any further, and had to be left. They were immediately ahead Pen Pictures of Early W'eslcrn Days. 8i of us, and e\'cr}" iiKirning" we would ])ass the remains of those that the wolves had dex'oured the night hefore. AH da}- we would drixe past the little crea- tures knowing Avhat to expect for them. It dis- tressed me heyond measure. A week's rest would hax'e saved them, hut the men would not wait, so rushed them on. leaving from twenty to hft}- a day for iwo or three weeks. 1 hegged so h;u'd to sa\e one little lamh that my hushand was willing, so 1 took it into the wagon, washed its feet, oiled and w ra])pe(l them up. thinking that 1 xvas going to ha\e a tine pet, hut it was too large to keep in such close quarters. It would not e\en try to walk, so I was ohliged to leaxe it. and another monster of a grey wolf had a feast that night. 82 I'cii I'iciurcs of Early ll'cstcni F\iys. CH ALTER Xili. T WAS iiDW the latter part of June. \\'e had reached a point of tlie ri\-er opposite Fort Laramie, w liere we turned ofT the Platte, wliich we had foho\\ed up to this time, into ^vllat tlie i;uide lK)ok called the Black Hills. Ascending' a steep hill, we drove onto a small, le\el plateau and camped. I walked to one side and looking" down a i)reci])ice saw a deep gorge with the river tumbling" and dashing" through, with none of the cahn. gentle flow we had witnessed for weeks. This was our last sight of the IMatte river. Here the iirst antelope and mountain goats were in sight, hut kept at a safe distance. When the morning came the wind was blowing a gale, making travehng" impossible. All day we Avere shut up in the wagon with the curtains fast- ened closely down, with everything" outside anchored to the rocks, and the men in a ravine some distance away guarding" cattle. It was a day to l)e remem- bered, and we were glad when the sun went down. The following" morning was like spring and we g'ot off in good season, now coming into the moun- tains in earnest. We halted at noon on the l)ank of a beautiful little stream called Goose creek. It Pen Pictures of Early ]\'cstcrn Days. 83 \\as iilled with speckled trout. Mr. Ivins took out tackle aud wcut tisliiui;-. I went, too, but talked so nuicli that he became diss^-usted and sent nie off. Xot haxing" any more fishing" tackle 1 fixed U)) a thread and pin hook, and to my great surprise caught a lot of little beauties l)ef(jre he had a bite. We staid some hours, until we had caught a fine fry for su])])er, and reluctantly left the spot. Among our dro\"e was an immense red ox, too large to ycjke and we had no mate for him. I never saw so large an one; he always led the drove and was gentle as a dog". Mr. Ixins procured a bell for him, to suit his size, and he carried himself with great dignity. He always slept near the wagons and was a great pet. When we crossed small streams the men would jump on his back and ritle o\er. There was something really noble about him. One evening ]\Ir. Ivins said to me, "If we get Rouser," as we called him, "through, I will get a thousand dollars for liim." I laughed at his high figures, and we strolled to where the old fellow was lying down, resting' as we supposed. Mr. Ivins examined his feet and said. "I am afraid they are growing" tender." He looked hollow eyed and we were anx- ious about him, for fear he might be alaklied. The next day he seemed listless but kept up with the drove. We camped early. By this time he did not want to eat but seemed very thirsty, and would stay near the wagfjns as if he did not like to Ije alone. As night came on he grew worse rapidly, 84 Pen Pictures of Early JJ'rslcni Days. and I)\- bed time we knew that diir jxinr dunil) friend was doomed, lie moaned like a luinian l)ein^" in l)ain and would get up and try to follow us. We i;-a\-e him medicine, but it did no i^-ood, and he would look at us ^^•ith his ^-j-eat brown eyes in the most appealing manner. His groans became more dis- tressing, and before dayliglit poor Rouser had crossed his last ri\-er. \A'e could not lnn"y him, so left him with his big bell strapi)ed around his neck. C)ur dro\-e of cattle was growing less, fort}- were Io.-etation. It is a most sin.i^iilar liill. l)cino- almost l)er|)en(hcnlar on ail sides. A miml)er of men were liai'd at work lioistini^- a deserted wa.^on to the tup, intendin.i^- to roll it off to celehrate Independence day. so near at hand. The next day we went a few miles np the stream to Devil's Gorge, a wild and romantic ])lace. The huge rocks seem to ha\e separated to make room for the river wln'ch dashes tlirongh the deep g'orge, rnshing and foaming like a torrent inr half a mile, then spreads out into a calm, gentle river again with grassy hanks and pehl)ly l)ottom. We remained here over the Fourth, and celebrated l)v opening a demijohn of wine, and demolishing that, and a large frnit cake which was baked for the occasion in onr far a\\"ay Iowa home. Onr road led now through the mountains and np into the Rockies, leaving Sweetwater on the morning of July fifth. A\'e were reaching a high altitude going steadily up, although the road was not very steep, arriving at South Pass the same day. 1 rode here on horseliack for the last time, past banks ot snow grown yellow with age. which gave no signs of melting, although the sun was shining brightly. .-\t this place we again overtook the Cram ])artv and traveled together for several days, when thev left us to liurrv forward. 86 Pen richircs of Early U'cslcni nays. AFv uncle also decided that he should he i^-etting- on faster, and joined two youn^- men who were endeav(»ring- to make good time, thinking to try and reach our destination and he ready for us when we should get there, which wished for event seemed a long wav in the future. Tt was w ith a sorrowful heart that I saw the preparations for their departure. Init 1 knew it was hest. and as I had hegun to learn endurance I kept a l)rave face till they were (^ut of sight; then I gave up and felt as if T were deserted hv mv hest friends, and tears "made furrows in my g"rief-worn cheeks." At this time mv hushand had rather a thrilling- experience. Tw(i of his cattle had heen found l)y a train hack of us, and they had sent word for him to come after them. He had no difficulty in iden- tifying' them as they were all l)randed with hi.s initials. He left us one bright morning- to go back for them. After spending the night with the hos- pitable friends of his steers, he started on with them early in the morning. He drove quite rapidly in order to overtake us in the evening. He hurried thcni so that they were pretty tired, so stopping be- side the road at noon to let them graze; he staked out his horse, and making a pallet of his blankets was preparing to take a good nap. Just as he was comfortably settled two men rode up and said: "Stranger, we will just take these steers." Mr. Ivins sprang- up and cocking his revolver, said: 'A\'ill YOU? Let me see you try." They attempted /'('// Pictures of Early Western Days. 87 to parley but the six shooter was a powerful con- vincer. and tlie}- rode off with it still pointed in their direction, ready for service if needed. P>v tliis time tiie noon hour was over and Mr. hins drove tlie steers home in triumph, in lime to make the evening- meal. A\'e now hoped that we mioht reach Cali- fornia hy Sei)teml)er hrst. We had crossed the divide, the crest as it were, for from South Pass the streams flow west, southwest, while on this side of that point they flow in an opposite direction. Driving- over a range of mountains and de.scend- in a steep hill we struck Green River, this being so deep and rapid we ferried o\-er. There was a small settlement here, just the ferryman and his asso- ciates. W'q now turned southwest towards Salt Lake Valley, \vhere we intended to rest and recuperate ourselves and the stock in some of the grassy val- leys near the city. Soon we came into mountains so steep and rocky that it was all the cattle could do to get over them. About noon we came to the foot of one with a rocky surface, perfectly bald, and so steep that in order to climb the road the cattle had to be driven zigzag. My husband and I looked at it in dismay, for how were the dear little bov and I ever to reach the top of that terrible hill. .\fter long deliberation Mr. Ivins devised a plan. After hitching ten yoke of oxen to mv wagon, he took a rope ninety feet long, as large as my wrist, 88 J'cn Pictures of Early ll'cslcni Days. with iron honks at either en(h This he fastened seciircl\- into the )-oke of the lead oxen, then into eacli successi\e }-oke till it reached the \\at^"on. in which J took mv seat 1)ack on the hed with ni\- little ])()}■ in my arms. The rope was then hi-ou^iit into the wagon and wrapped around ns several times and well fastened. Then with a man holding one side of the vehicle and my husband the other the dri\'ers urged the poor oxen up the dreadful roa without help. The men would take blankets and slip under them and set them on their feet, then they could walk or stagger along; all but the white mule which was as jolly as ever. In the morning I went to make a farewell visit to Mrs. Cram and found her sitting on a box crving bitterly; upon inquiry I found that the precious l)ox contained all their pretty keepsakes and elegant wardrobe, and that it must be left, as the horses could not haul anything further, and that she would ha\-e nothing in which to make a respectable appearance upon reaching ci\ilization. While we were condoling with each other upon our trials, our husbands came up and wanted to know the cause of the present trouble. Upon being informed Air. Ivins said : "Oh. don't cr}'. 1 will take your box to Marysville and leave it at the Adams express office subject to your order. How will that suit you?" She at once accepted the offer and was all smiles. "Well," said Air. Cram, '*if you are so willing to do a good turn perhaps you will take a box for me." Mr. Ivins assured him that he would gladly do so, and both boxes were loaded into our lumber wagon without delay. The second box contained a complete set of carpenter's tools, which if we had known would ha\e saved us nmch troul)le a few days later, and ignorance was not bliss in this instance. Pen Pictures of Early Western Days. 107 Carl bad taken a lot of provisions ont of the wag-on toi snn. and as there was a trading post near by the proprietor was looking around to see what the emigrants would sell or leave. He imme- diately wanted some of our supplies. \\'e were sure bv this time that we would ha\e provisions to spare, so Mr. Ivins sold him an hundreds pounds of flour for a dollar a pound, and a large ham for thirty dollars, both of which he carried off in tri- umph. It seemed a big price but it was worth all that to- bring them that far. We still had a month's provision, and expected to reach Marysville in two weeks at most. After a most delightful visit with our life-long friends, on the morning of September ninth w'e bade them good-bye with many tears on my part, for I needed friends then if ever, and we were starting on a perilous road over the niountains. The ascent of the Sierras began now in earnest. The road was very rough, in many place covered with round boulders which made it almost impas- sible. I was obliged to lie down most of the day. In the afternoon, as he usually did, Tvlr. Ivins went forward to look for a camping place. We often had to leave the road to find good grass. There were places about twenty-five miles apart where it could be found, that being a day's journey for oxen. After he went awa}-, the road becoming somewhat smoother. I went to sleep, not waking till quite late. io8 Pen Pirliircs of Early ]\'cstcrn Da\s. 1 found Car] drixino- my learn. On asking- wlicre my regular driver was Carl told nie that soon after Mr. Ivins left Henry had taken a sack of crackers out of the wagon and gone away, saving tliat he was tired of l)eing so slow, and that a few days would lake him to settlements. There wa."? nothing to be done, as we could not overtake liim, but we feared the worst. It was growing late and there were still no signs of my husband and I was greatly worried. It was almost sundown, when we heard away off to the right a faint hello, and saw Mr. Ivins coming towards us. We waited till he came up when he lectured us roundlv for being so- heedless in not watching for him. He had found a fine camp a mile or so off the road, and had been trying to attract our attention for some time in order to go there, but we were past the turn off. 1 wanted to go back but he was cross and said, "Xo. we will go on till we find another place,'" and tm we went. I retired to my abiding place too distressed to say anything more. It was dusk when we drove up to what seemed to be a small lake, and the order was gi\-eu to unyoke. The cattle were driven to the lake to drink but turned away without tast- ing the water. W'hat was our consternation to find it to be an alkalie lake, which looked like ashes and water mixed, not fit to be used at all. and all together the outlook was most distressing. Carl made the fire and cooked the supper b)- the light /'('// riiiiircs of Early JJ'cstcni Days. 109 of a (liin laiitcni. making- the coffee out of a little water which was left oxer in the cans, keeping" about a quart to drink. I fixed my house and Carl brought me my supper but 1 could not eat and spent the time in tears. Little Charlie was put to bed and Mr. hins retired also. After all was quiet 1 lighted ni}' lamp and sat doAvn to sew. 1 had l)een ([uietly at work making a small wardrol)e out of some of the clothes which were in the broken box l>et\)re mentioned, for I realized that 1 might need it before we arri\-ed in California, or \er)- soon after. There was onl}" one more garment to hnish and I thought that I had better get it done. I sewed till about ten o'clock. Outside the poor, thirsty cattle lowed, the coyotes barked and snarled, the owls hooted and the night hawks screamed. It seemed as if we were deserted l)y God and man. I thought that I would go to l)ed and sleep if possible, but found that I could not help myself; that now. indeed, trouble was in store for us. I woke mv husband and told him the situation. He would not believe me at first, but was soon convinced, and God only knows the fear and agony of that dreadful night. I tried to be bra\e for the sake of mv husband and child, and at three o'clock there came to us a dear little daughter, with no one near to help, comfcjrt or relieve. After doing what he could for me, mv husband wrapi>ed the little one in a blanket and laid her in my arm. It had turned verv cold and a dreadful chill no Pen Pictures of Early Western Days. came on. J\ly husband put ^\ arm covers over mc and tried to warm me by holding me in his arms. A bed had been made for Chadie on the spring seat. He was put there and we watched for dayhght with aching hearts. At the first faint ghmmer of dawn ^Ir. Ivins dispatched a man on horseback with a can for water to Pea \'ine springs. It was fi\e miles and Ijreakfast was late that morning. My husband incjuired of the first train that came past for some elderly woman to come in and see me and the somewhat unexpected guest. About ten o'clock a good Samaritan came in, hoked at the baby, said a few kind words to mc and left me to mv fate. /'(■// I'iiiiircs of liarly ll'cslcni Days. iii CHAPTER XVni. TAYIXG at this place was of course impossible. So after noon they hitched up and drove about fi\-e miles to a reasonably good camping- place and laid by for three days. It is useless to say h()\\- I g-ot along\ I simplv en- dured without complaint. I was so sure that both the baby and I would die that all fear was gone. I was not even nervous, and waited for the end, only anxious about my husband and little boy. Charlie just worshiped the little sister and was so good and sweet, sitting by me so pa- tient and gentle. I might have known that I was the mother of an angel even then. My out-door life kept me from taking cold, and I made the best of the somewhat difficult situation and was quite cheerful when my husband was with me. Carl, my little Dutchman, was a friend in the fullest sense of the word, and all the men were gentle and quiet, knowing that the little woman who had shared their hardships was in dire necessity and clanger. It was impossible for us to stop longer as the snow would soon begin to fall in the mountains, so I told my husband that I was able to travel and we resumed our journey. 112 Pen Pictures of Early Western Days. The roads were very rough, up and down hills. or rather mountains, with here and there a level stretch, making- our progress ^•ery slow. On the morning of September fourteenth we came to a most dangerous part of the road, called the Devil's Elbow. It was a huge ledge of rocks with one corner jutting out into the road which had led along the brow of a mountain for miles. There was just room for a wagon to go around and none to spare. The turn was very short, and on the other side of the road was a precipice of thousands of feet down. Just before we came to this Mr. Ivins threw up the curtain of the wagon to let me see the grandeur of the scene. We were near the summit of the Sierras above the clouds. There were just the notched and jagged edges of the mountains in view. ^\ ith the tops of the trees when the clouds lifted for a few moments. I did not know of the narrow pass till we were (juite up to it. Then my husband told me I must not be afraid, that he \\(nild take good care of his little family. He put two men with the oxen to guide and drive them, lca\ing the drove. All the others with my husband went on the lower side of the wagon, pushing it towards the rock, and with great caution we passed it in safety. The other \\agon was less troublesome, being narrower and not having so precious a load. The cattle were dri\en around crowded up towards the rock. My poor, tired husband breathed Pen Pictures of Early U'cslcrii Days. 113 easier when the last creature, man or beast, was past the (lanj^'erous place, where a sinj^^le slip or misstep would have precipitated the unfortunate object hundreds of feet down the cliff. We hurried on, that nig-ht camping on the summit. The morning- of September fifteenth, three cheers were given with a will, in honor of our safe deliverance from dangers passed, and the prospect of a speedy drive down the western slope. How- ever, we were too sanguine as the result proved. When all was ready to start Carl was directed to drive my wagon to the front, as usual. \\'e had gone only about an hundred yards when striking a stump the hind axletree was broken short off. Mr. Ivins looked at the damage, ordering the other wagon and stock driven down to a level place about a mile further on, which he had seen when recon- noitering the road. The driver whipped up and in turning^, out to pass us struck a stone and snap went the coupling pole of that wagon, so there we W'Cre stuck fast. Our tools had all been lost or left, and Mr. Ivins had only an axe, hatchet and jack-knife with which to repair, and no iron or lumber of any kind. It had rained and sleeted all the morning;, freezing onto the top of the w^agon which now began to melt and run through, and for the first time on the journey my bed was getting wet with no way to help it, and we were almost frozen. 114 '^'''" Pictures of Early Western Days. I coA'ci'cd up the 1)aliics as well as 1 could and tried to keep them warm, thinking- little uf myself. Aly husband coming" in to find how 1 was getting on. seeing the state of things, broke down for the hrst time, exclaiming, "Oh! 1 shall lose you yet on this dreadful journey." Dear little Charlie tried to comfort us in his baby fashion, but the tears would come and we wept together. My husband was chilled through, and alto- gether disccniraged, hardly knowing what t() do and seemed io depend on me for advice. He had eaten no breakfast as Carl could not cook in the storm, and I saw that he could not plan or work until he could be made more comfortable, and needed warm clothing first of all. So putting them on we all crept under the covers till we got warm. It was also important that he should have a' nourishing meal ; as there was a trading post near I asked him to gO' and see wdiat he could find. He did so, buying a dried applie pie and a glass of milk, for which he paid a dollar, but it did him many times that amount of good. ^Vhile he was eating his luncheon he related his luishaps to the trader, who told him that a short distance further on was a wagon that had l^een broken down by the snow", which fell to the depth of twenty-live feet there in winter, and ])erhaps he might find something with which to repair Pen Pictures of Early J I 'est cm Days. 115 the (laniage. He went at once and found the axles still whole, but they were for a narrow tread, while ours was a wide tread wagon. He brought them back however, glad to hnd anything in this case of necessity. Coming back to the cani]) he dispatched two men to cut a slim pine sapling, as there were no other trees there. With that and chains he soon fixed the lumber wagon. Then turning his attention to my house he proped it up. taking off the hind axle. Placing them in the fire together with those he had found would char them, then shape them down in a slanting manner until they were of the proper width ; then taking a bolt heated it red hot and bored holes in them, and with a stnjng bolt and nut fastened them together. Put- ting the wheels on he found they fitted, so we were in running order once more. It would have facilitated matters greatly if we had known that Mr. Cram's box contained a com- plete set of carpenter's tools. By the time the repairing was done it was almost night, so we hitched up and dro\-e down to the level place before spoken of and camped for the night, tired but hai>{)y. September sixteenth we started early, glad to leave that land of break-downs, that day passing a mining camp called Seventy-Six, where we heard that a man came there the day before nearly worn out and starving, and knew from the description ii6 Pen Pictures of Early Western Days. tliat it niiist have been our deserter, Henry. No one knew where he had g"one, however, and we ne\'er heard of him aj^ain. We Ijegan to see now and tlien a mining' cami) or soHtary shanty. The roads were not so bad, aUhongh we tra\-ele(l slowlv with the wheels locke(h it being down grade, throngh the Beckworth Cut Oft, and into a fine opening cahed Cirass Vahey. where we remained a day for the cattle to have a good feed. A ranch- man visited ns here, who had tried for half a day to overtake ns, to induce Mr. Ivins to come to his ranch and be comi)any for him and his wife. All he asked was that we should come and live in one of his houses; that he should have all the pasture he needed, and that an hundred dollars a month would be the salary, with nothing" to do l)ut what he wished. lUit our faces were straight-forward, and ease had no charms for us then. A mine (^w•ner made a more liberal offer still if we would only stop with him. Women were scarce and most attrac- tive to the poor, homesick men alone, so far from their families, and I was treated like a superior being. 1 had b}' this time 1)egun to get out of the wag'on in the evening. The weather was lovely and we went on our way rejoicing. Pen Pictures of Early JJ'estcni Days. 1x7 CHAPTER XIV. ^' Sei)teni1)cr twentieth we arrived at Mount Hope Branch, cig"ht miles out of Marys\-ille. As we came dow'n the mountains we had a heautiful view of Sacra- mento Valley, with its varied hues of green, russet and brown, with the Sacramento river runnino- like a silver thread towards the west. The good grass at Mount Hope induced us to rest there for five days taking- a new lease of life. Mv husband went into the town each day. de- lighted to meet men who could talk of something besides the worn out subjects of grass, water, bad roads and alkalie dust. On the twenty-fifth of September we proceeded. going into Marysvill^ in the afternoon, \\diat came near proving a most serious accident occurred on this short drive. Quail were very numerous along the road and Mr. Ivins could not resist the temp- tation tO' shoot some, so came to the wagon and took out his gun. After bagging a dozen or two he brought it back and put it in its place, fastened, as he supposed, by the straps to the wagon bows. The children and I were asleep, and he was careful not to disturb us. On going over a rough place Ti8 Pen Pictures of Early JJ'csfcrn Pays. in the road the g'un feh down close to my head and went off within a few inches of my face, setting fire to the cover. I was so stunned for a few min- utes, that I (hd not know wliat had occurred. The screams of the chikh'en recahed me. but e\'en then 1 (hd not know what liad liappened till Mr. I\-ins rushed up in great affright and exclaimed : "Oh ! are you shot?" and blaming himself for careless- ness. By this time the cotton cover had 1)urst into a blaze, and it took hard work to extinguish it. I began to think I bore a charmed life. It was a dreadful shock and had I been at all nervous would have g"one hard with me. But so far I had been perfectly cool in every danger we had encountered, a trait I inherited from niy father who was a sol- dier, an officer in the regular army. At Marysville Mr. Ivins drove at once to the express ofiice and deposited the boxes belonging to our friends, the Crams, and passing through the town made our camp under some large willow trees on the bank of Feather River, where we staid two days. We were now on the level road leading to Sac- ramento. Our men still remained with us, and would do' so till Ave reached that place. The heat was intense in the middle of the day, but the morn- ings and evenings were cool and pleasant. Oiu' camp was close to the stage road leading to Sacra- mento. It was a Ijeautiful sight to see those elegant Pen Pictures of Early ]]\\^teni Days. 119 niahooan}- colored coaches, triinmed witli "old, drawn hy four spans of fine horses, witli sliining- harness. "oino- at a full o-a]]op on a road level as a floor. Se])teniber 29th we broke up our pretty camp, starting- down the same mad. hut at quite a dif- ferent o-ait. The heat was frightful, the poor cattle suffering- dreadfully, to say nothing- of human be- ings. I beg-an to feel quite bright and enjoyed seeing- the farms, ranches and other signs of civili- zation. The sun beat down furiously. Among- the drove I noticed a poor little red steer who was almost o\'ercome and could not find any shade, pant- ing- f(^r breath; with his tongue hrmging out he would run a little ways and then stop. I watched him curious to know why he did so, and found that it; was from one telegraph pole to another, where he would back up into the long slim line of shade it cast, .\fter a while he discovered a little shade behind the wagon, and kept close to it for shelter. Alxnit noon we came to a wayside inn, putting- up there for the rest of the day and night. The people kept the floors and porches wet to cool the an-. The next morning we resumed our march, and the twenty-eighth of September arrixed at a pomt near Sacramento, making our camp on the .\merican river under some beautiful, large live t^ak trees. I20 Pen Pictures of Early JJ'esleni Days. My husband rind all the men went int(i town except Carl, who staid with me. Louis Smitli ex- ])ecte(l to receive a letter from a brother living in Stockton advising" him what he should do. The others went to look for work, and Mr. Ivins to decide upon a place to take his family. I was almost jubilant, for now I began to see the end of this most trying and tedious journey. After they had all g'one Carl made me a com- fortable couch ^^•here Charley, baby and I had a nice change from the close quarters of our wagon home. We had named the little g'irl Sierra Nevada, in honor of her birth place. She was doing well and was an object of great interest to us all. I did not want to give her that name, but her father wished it so I consented. Carl and I had a long consulta- tion as to what was l)est for him to do. He did not want to lea\'e us, and I certainly did not wish to have him do so, and we settled it that he should stay until some desirable opportunity presented itself. He seemed very happy that he was so well provided for, and I was also, that I could still have my faithful Carl. Late in the afternoon Mr. Ivins came back to tell me that he had rented a ranch across the ri\-er, five miles from the city. The pro- prietor had a young wife who would be delighted to have a neighbor and companion. There was a nice cottage and ])lenty of land, and that we were to go over to it the next day, stopping in the city to buv furniture on the wav. I was wild with de- Pen Pictures of Early JJ\\<^tcni Pays. t2i lio-lii and could scarcely believe that I should so soon be in a home of my own. Clark and the others. except Louis, soon returned to stay the night, get their possessions, say good-bye and each go their \va\' the following morning. just as supper was ready Louis came dashing up, exclaiming, "I have it and you must share my luck." After the small excitement was over he an- nounced that he had received a letter from hi.s brother at Stockton, enclocing a draft for one hun- dred dollars, and that we should have it all but enough to take him to Stockton. Of course that was out of the question, but it was most generous in Louis, and we appreciated his kindness greatly. Louis was almost offended but had to give up his plan. The men seemed loathe to say good-1>ye, but by nine o'clock next morning all were gone except Louis, who lingered to go into the city with us and say good-bye there. At ten o'clock we were again on the road, Louis driving my wagon to be with me a while longer, to tell me all his hopes and fears, and how much he loved us. My tears would come, for T had learned to look upon the noble boy almost as a brother. When we reached the city he left us with a sorrowful face, and I never saw him again. Carl came and drove my wagon for a while as we passed through the street, but soon my husband came and took his place and Carl went to the other, the cattle following from force of habit. 122 Pen Pictures of Early IVesteni Days. Emigrant teams were plenty, 1)nt mine was an extra good one and we had not gone far into the city until some one said : "Hello, stranger, what will you take for that wagon ?" Mr. Ivins replied : "One hundred dollars." The answer was: "Well, unload." I got out with the children, the hcd and other contents were loaded into the lumber wagon, and a i)lace fixed for us to ride the short distance we expected to go. W'e had not yet reached the business part of the city. Shortly after, another per- son exclaimed, "Hello, Ivins. when did you get in?" And a man ^\•hom ni)- husband had known in a neighboring town to ours in Iowa made himself known, asked where we were going and invited us to his brother's house to dinner; said that his family were (ju their way to the coast by land ; describing that part of the state as a land flowing with milk and honey, fine feed and fat cattle, the hills covered with flowers and wild oats, and even Paradise itself would be dull compared with its glories; also, that we would reach there in three days, going" right along wdth them ; that he had some cows that could go along ^^•ith our drove; that he would help drive them, and that Mrs. Hunt, his wife, could assist me if need be, and, in fact, everything be lovely. I was bitterly opposed to the plan, Ijut my husband, contrary to his usual good judgment l)elie\'ed all Hunt told him, and it did no good for me to object. Accordingly he wrote to the man whose ranch he had engaged, giving it up. We staid all night at Pen Pictures of Early IJ'rsfcni Daxs. 123 the Hunts, startini;- early in the morning" for l-'ara- (lise, ordinarily called Petahmia. We could not cook now, having" no conveniences, so hought pro- visions for the trip already cooked. Among other eatahles Mr. Ivins bought a stack of pies a foot high. They were niade with rancid lard and it made me sick to even look at them, and with things thrown into the wagon as they were, our culinary depart- ment was somewhat demoralized. I was terribly cramped for room, so that Mr. Ivins was obliged to sleep on the ground, which he had never done be- fore. We endured the first night, and the next day I tried to pack things to be more comfortable, but it was of no use and the second oiie I laid down in the crowded place with my little ones and forgot my troubles for three days. How the poor chil- dren fared I never knew. There was no stopping now. We would be obliged to pasture the stock which w^ould cost at least thirty dollars a day, which we could not af- ford to pay. No' one came near me. Mr. Ivins and Carl had to drive team and cattle, while the Hunts were absorbed in their own affairs. Their cows were going with our drove, and that was all they wanted of us anyway. My husband said that the baby cried most of the time, and dear, twenty- months-old Charley would alternately pet it and cry himself. Carl woiild sometimes take him in his 124 ^^« Pictures of Early JJ'cstcru Days. arms and carry him wliile driving cattle ; and my husband walked all day and drove oxen with a burn- ing fever. This state of things lasted for three days, when my uncle, Dr. Galland, overtook us. They had reached Marysville after we left there, coming by way of Carson Valley. Having received letters from me that we were going tO' the coast and being uneasy about me, he took horse and followed, reaching us at the third nights' camp below Sacra- mento. My uncle seeing my condition tried to rouse me without a\ail. So taking out medicine he admin- istered it, helped to care for the children and took his place by the camp fire to watch with me. The next morning I was still delerious. My uncle had Mr. Ivins ride his horse and staid with me, cared for the children, still giving me medicine. He tried to have us stop but the urgency of the case would not admit of it. The roads were good, but nothing worried or aroused me. That night again my uncle watched with me while the others slept. I was l)urning up with fever, and he g'ave me all the water 1 wanted to drink. The poor little baby wailed and moaned, but it was too cold to take it out of the wagon- Some time towards morning he heard me moving, and coming to me found me up on my knees in the front of the wagon with my baby in my arms trying to throw it out. He reasoned with me, asking me /'(•// Pictures of Early H'cstcrii Days. 125 what I wanlod to do, talked to me and so(jthed me, sayiiii;'. "M}' child, it is your baby." I looked at him for a few minutes trying- to understand. .Ml at once 1 smiled and said : "Why, so it is," and quietly laid down with it in my arms, and both fell asleep, d he morning" found me free from fe\er but very weak. Aly uncle at once went on to Petaluma and hiring a spring waggon sent it back, with orders to have my bed laid in it and hurry back with me to the hotel. But the Hunt family crowded into it, giving me just a seat. Charley was put on a cushion at my feet, and I held the baby in my lap. As we rode along I would reel from side to side, and had to hold on with all my poor strength to keep from falling out. In this way, about four o'cUick in tlie afternoon we dro\'e up to the hotel at Petaluma, wdiere my uncle had engaged rooms for us. My friend, Mr. I. G. W'ickersham, met me and lifting me out carried me into the parlor and set me in a chair, and I again forgot my troubles. 126 Poi Pictures of Early Western Days. CH A ITER XX. WAS i)ut to bed and my uncle watched over me for two weeks, when, thanks to his skill, I be- gan to improve. B}' this time my children were both sick and my husband down with moun- tain fever. And altogether we were in a most deplorable state. \\^e were paying twenty-fi\e dollars a week at the hotel with very poor accommodations. Our cattle were turned loose in the hills with no one to look after them but Carl, and he just a half-grown boy. As soon as he could lea\'e us my uncle hurried back to ]\Iar}-sville. sold his outfit and brought my aunt back to Petaluma, where they at once rented a house, and took us all home to nurse us back to health; and most gently and tenderly did they care for us and help us regain our exhausted strength. Had it not been for them, my more than father and mother, this family A\-ould have ended then and there. As it was, with all their care, the month of h^ebruary found me just able to begin housekeeping in a small cottage of two rooms which my husband had built, lined with cloth and papered; poor and cheap as it was, it was a \eritablc palace to me, for was it not my home, after six months spent in an Pen P id lire's of Early U'cslcm Days. 127 ox wagon. 'J'hc cosy nest was our home for eight months. 'J'he town which contained onlv f(»nr hnn(h-e dragged his catship down to the house setting him up on the back p(jrch where he was an object of much curi- osity. My little boy called it the big pussy. One lovely day in the latter part of the summer Mr. Ivins went to Tomales for a load of vegetables. It being fifteen miles out he started, very early, taking the ox team which served for all occasions, sometimes as a carriage. After he left the hours dragg"ed slowly, and it seemed as if the day were a week long", that night ne\'er would come. Drunken Indians rode past making the air hideous with their whoops and howls, but no other human being came in sight. After what seemed a day almost intermin- able the night closed down. I put my little ones to bed and waited. Outside the cloth and paper house the coyotes barked, and there were all sorts of alarming sounds. I felt as if I should almost die of fright. I could not leave or carry my chil- dren, and the nearest neighbor was almost a mile away. It was midnight when I heard a shout on the hill back of the house, and shortly after my hus- band came, driving- the big ox wagon straight down a steep hill a half mile high, without any signs of Pen Pictures of Early JJ'csferii [lays. 131 a road. He had turned off the main road to find a shorter route and liad (h'iven over liills and ravines, Avhich he could do as there were tew trees. But I think it was the only time that a loaded \vag(jn \vas^e\er dri\-en straight up and down those Peta- lunia hills. All the vegetables in the state would not have tempted me to live over again that dreadful day. I knew of the grizzly bears that had been killed so near the place, and although my husband assured me that dead grizzlies would not hurt me. I was afraid there might be live ones left. 13^ Pen Pictures of Early I Pest cm Days. CHAPTER XXI. MILE \\e were waiting for affairs to get into running order for business, we had leisnre to take many short trips to places (jf in- terest in tlie vicinity, one of whicli was particularly enjoy- able. Quite a party was ar- ranged to go on a clam bake to Tomales Bay on the ocean, fifteen miles distant, camping over night. There were about thirty in the party. We started at ten o'clock one lovely June morning, a merry part}-, in all sorts of conveyances, even to a lumljer \\agon bedded with ha}' — mostly men, as women were scarce. The ride was through the foothills of the coast range of mountains which were covered with wild oat§, California poppies and other wild l^owers, with now and then live oak trees looking ver}- like orchard trees, with wide spreading shade. \\'e stopped at noon in a convenient spot with a small spring ioY our picnic lunch. l)ri\ing on just before sunset we arrived at the top of the last hill. On reaching the summit a magnificent sight met our eyes. N^o words can express the grandeur oi the scene. Beyond the small promontory which makes the bay, the Pacific stretchetl one grand expanse of Pen Pictures of Early JJ^esfcni Days. 133 water, smooth as t^-lass, the sun liangino- red above it. and in the foregTonnd the httle bay with its green borders coming close to the shore. \\'e (h-ew up and waited to see the snn sink Hke a ball of fire into the water, then driving on down the hill, made oiir camp. and while the men were putting up the tents got supper and made the beds before dark. There was little sleep for we sat by the camp-fire and told stories and sang songs till far into the beautiful moonlight night; then after the women and girls had retired the men serenaded us until almost morn- ing. After breakfast most of the party went across the bay to the main shore, leaving a Mrs. Thompson and me at the camp, as we both had children with us. They crossed the bay in small boats, taking baskets to bring back the spoils, returning about four o'clock in the afternoon, loaded down with clams, muscles, sea weed and beautiful shells. Mr. I\ins had found a number of beautiful shells com- monly called sea eggs, fine specimens, not large but perfect. On reaching the camp as he took his basket down from his shoulder where he had carried it he crushed all but two. I still treasure one of them as a memento of a most enjoyable trip. After having a fine dinner of clams and other fish, we started houie about six o'clock. The moonlight ride was beautiful, as we did not reach Petaluma till after midnight. 134 -^'"^ Piciiircs of Early JJ'cstcrn Days. CHAPTER XXIT. FRIEND of onrs. Mr. Hnlet, had married the daughter of an old Spaniard, Signor Bohockus, who owned many leagues of land, one of the early Spanish grants. Those old land owners kept many retainers dependent upon them, and when money was needed he would have his flocks, herds and manather of horses which roamed over his broad acres of hill and meadow driven up, and as many as were needed sold, at which time money would be plenty. The round-up generally lasted two weeks, after which there was a good time, ending with a fandango and barbecue. Everybody for miles around was invited. Air. Hulet had asked us to come to the next one, which would be in the spring. One night about nine o'clock a spring wagon drove up with a message from Mr. Hulet to come to the fandango, that he would send us home whenever we wanted to come. We at once dressed and taking the baby, left Charley with John. After a drive of five miles we arrived at the place of festivties. The whole house, a large adobe, was thrown open and brilliantly lighted, and dancing was going on to the music of Pen Pictures of Early JJ'csfcru Days. 135 Spanisli guitars. We entered and were most cor- dially o-reeted l)y tlie liost, and introduced as Signor and Signora I\-ins. Tlie 1)al)y was taken to the nursery, a long room having i)eds and cra- dles, with nurses in attendance, where there were at least thirty habies being cared for. The little Sierra was a most accommodating child, and opened her big blue eyes very wide to see the .small Spanish boys of six months old or less dressed in short pants, bolero jackets, and the finest of linen cambric shirts, trimmed with dainty thread and Valenciennes lace, and cunning silk socks and slippers. They were too comical and pretty. We returned to the salon and joined the throng. Mr. Hulet brought up a tall Spaniard, mentioned my name and his. He bowed and offered his arm which I took, and we stepped into the circle of waltzers. One could not help dancing with such a partner, so round and around we went. I could not ask him to stop, but we did when the music ceased. Later Mrs. Hulet took me to the supper room to see the tables before they were demolished, and to the kitchen where the waiters were carving a whole ox, which had been roasted and was steam- ing hot. It was all so interesting to me, but strange ; so like a foreign country. At one o'clock I took my sleeping baby and the conveyance took us home after a most delightful evening. One of my friends sent me a fine pony and I was getting quite inde- pendent, riding into town often, also going with my 1 3'^! Pen Pictures of Early Western Days. liusband to hunt cattle, and it was delightful riding over these beautiful hills. One day I was g'oing into town ; the wind was blowing" a gale, there was a long ra\-ine to pass through where the sweep was greatest ; ^^•hen about the middle of this I saw a carriage comingi out, and what was my sur|)rise and delight to meet our friends, Mr. and Mrs. Cram, on their way out to visit us. They had a big laugh at my expense. I suppose that I looked the perfect C(^untry woman, my hat blown onto the back of my neck, my riding skirt filled with wind and the pony, Flossy, going at a keen gallop. I turned back with ihem, gtad to welcome them, and we had a week to be remembered, filled with reminiscences of our never-to-be-forgotten journey, and anticipations for the future. i\nd now work began in earnest. Making butter and cheese is no child's play, although I had plenty of help and every convenience for making it as easy as possible, and it brought in lots of yellow gold. The knowledge of our prosperous business became known and visitors were numerous at the ranch to see the process which I had learned from an eastern cheese-maker, and to eat the curd and drink the milk and cream. One August day, when we felt more tired than usual a purchaser came, and in an hour's time everything was sold, including four tons of cheese on the shelves. In another hour I was getting clothes ready for my children and preparing to leave that land of grizzlies, coyotes and Pen Pictures of Early JJ'esfeni Pays. 137 rattlesnakes — the latter a loeal institution, how- ever. In a few (lavs we bade good-bye to the lonely ranch, which I even then began to regret, spending the last two weeks at the home of my uncle. Dr. Galland. in Petaluma. Our passage was engaged on the steamer Sierra Nevada, which sailed Sep- tember tifth. Our friends, when they found that we had decided to leave, did everything in their power to keep us, and I began to fear that we had made a mistake in leaving the state, but my uncle and aunt intended to return east in the spring, and there were other dear friends at the end of the an- ticipated journey. If my husband engaged in busi- ness again it would be permanent, for as he said he never put his hand to the plow and looked back. The days passed all too quickly. The dear friends just showered us with kindness, but they could not hold back Father Time. The small stream upon which Petaluma is sit- uated is an arm of San Francisco Bay, and is very crooked, the tide coming in twice a day, and there is a run of five miles in order to make two, and the little steamer could only come in and out with the tide. We were to go by the Isthmus of Nica- ragua, in order to visit a place near San Juan, where Mr. Ivins' sisters had lived, and were looking for- ward to a pleasant journey. On the morning of Septeml)er fourth the house 138 Pen Pictures of Early JVcsicrn Days. was crowded with friends, mostly men. to say good- bye, and wisli us Godspeed. Tliere were few women there then and I had been treated hke a queen by tliem alh and my husband was proud and happv to liave it so. "Jdie captain of the boat said he would wait for us as long as possible, but the bell kept ringing, and iinally a messenger came to say that we must come at once or there would be no water. So with about thirty as escort we rushed down to the boat which pushed off at once. Wdien we ar- rived at the end of the creek, about five miles down, two hack loads of friends were there l>efore us to say one more good-bye. which was sorrow- fully given, for now we began to realize what we were giving up. and that a long weary road lay between us and the old home in Iowa. We arrived in San Francisco in the afternoon, stopped at a hotel till the next afternoon when we went on board the steamer, selected our room and seats at table, any the Hght of pine torches, which occupied most of the night. We were to go in the last trip, and were all on board, Mr. Ivins bringing up the rear with the valuable hamper. As he stepped onto the gunwale his foot slipped throwing him headlong into the midst of us. Just at this moment a voice called out of the darkness, "Is there a man here by the name of Ivins ?"' My husband replied from his prostrate position, "Yes, I am right here; what do you want?" The captain of the scow said that he had orders to look after us and make our trip across as pleasant as possible. This was an agreeable sur- prise, which we learned was due to Mr. Ruggles, the steamship company's agent on the isthmus, a friend of my husband's sister, Mrs. Anderson, who had gone with her husband to Nicaragua for the benefit of his health. He died shortly after, leaving her among strangers, but who proved to be friends. The company offered her great inducements to remain and open a hotel for the accommodation of travelers. Having decided to do so she erected a Pen Pictures of Early Western Days. 147 l^iiikling' of bamboo quite large and roomy, where she hved for five years. The officers of the company were most kind to her. bringing' lier suppHes from New York and helping her in many ways. It was only necessary for her to ser\e meals four times a month, to the outgoing and incoming passengers. Not infrequently they met at Castillo Falls, her home, and she would ser\-e meals to from one to two thousand people in one or two days. At the time of our visit she had returned to Keokuk, but had written to Mr. Ruggies that we would be on the isthmus in September, and he being determined to find us, had made inquiry of every lot of pas- sengers until he met us on this most perplexing trip. Our scow did not reach the lake steamer until after two o'clock in the morning", which we found to be like an excursion boat with no accommoda- tions for sleeping". Imagine se\en hundred people tired out lying around on benches or any other ])lace they could find and you have the scene. My hus- band, children and myself, accompanied by Miss Hughes, were shown at once to the captain's room and went to bed as comfortaljh' as if we were at home. It is always well to have friends at court. There was no prospect of crossing the lake that night. The rain had ceased and the morning dawmed bright and clear with the wind blowing a gale, which rose higher with the sun, but did not go down with it, so we lay here at anchor till the morning of the second day. Our stay gave us ample 14^^ Pen Pidni'cs of Early Western Days. time to admire the lake which is a beautiful sheet of water, witli an island in the center shaped like a sugar loaf, and the shores are lined \\ ith the most luxuriant vegetation, ^^'e were beginning to feel anxious about the steamer on the other side, as we had been so long- in crossing'. ^^ e had turned the hamper over to the rest of our party who were very glad to have it. while we were living high at the captain's table. There were many curious glances cast at us and questions why we had the privilege of the upper deck, which was denied to others. .Vt daylight the second morning we started across the lake; the run was beautiful and occupied the entire forenoon. Every one was enthusiastic, for now we felt that we were making up for lost time. At about noon we reached the head of San ]m\n River and were transferred on movaljle bridges to the waiting river boat, and before one o'clock were again under way down the narrow river whose banks were overhung with tropical trees with droop- ing branches dipping into the water and brushing the sides of the boat. The trees were filled with birds of beautiful plumage, parrots, parroquites and many other varieties, while several kinds of monkeys chattered overhead. At the entrance of the river is an old fort, and some twelve miles down is Fort Castillo, at the falls or rapids of the same name. The adobe buildings stood on the summit of a steep hill overlooking a Pen Piciurcs of pAirly U'csicni Days. 149 few 1)anibo(i houses, among- them that once (nvned 1)y Mrs. Anderson. Here we were oljHged to change steamers, walking around the falls, mean- time stopping for dinner at the hotel where they had been expecting us for three days. The house was then kept by Mr. Crocket, a former resident of Keokuk. When we entered the hotel Mr. and Mrs. Crocket were trying tO' get up a dinner, the former with a sick child in his arms. The tables were filled with a clamoring croAvd who had no prospect of a speedy meal. Having asked Miss Hughes to take charge of the children and packages for me I went immediately to the kitchen where ]\Ir. Crocket was. and asked what I could do to help her. She seemed glad to have me and directed me to scramble eggs. I used a five-gallon keg of them before I left the stove. Mr. Ivins was helping Mr. Crocket wait on the tables. Many of the men were at the kitchen door with their plates. When they saw us go to the rescue a cheer went up and some one said, "We will get something now, one of our ladies is going to help cook." Mrs. Crocket told our party to wait till the crowd had finished, when she would get us up an extra dinner, but before we were half through eating the boat bell rang pre-emptorily and we were obliged to leave on a run. Captain Townsend told us that he had waited for us as long as he possibly could. \\'e took our way on down the river, which grew \\ider and deeper with the same luxuriant vegeta- 150 Pen Pictures of Early Western Days. tion. the dense jungles coming- quite to'tlie water's edge. T\\Q boat was crowded to such an extent that the ol^cers were ol^Hged to keep the people in the center of it for fear it would capsize. At alx)ut two o'clock in the morning we arrived at Grav Town, at the mouth of San Juan River, the small river boat taking us out to the w'aiting ocean steamer, where we climbed up the stairs by the light of torches, feeling as if we were getting home once more. The vessel on which we again embarked was the historical steamer Star of the West, which we all remember so well as being fired into in Charles- ton Harbor — the first shot of the Civil War^ — as she w^as taking troops to Fort Sumpter for the relief of its brave commander, Anderson. I little thought when I traveled on her w^hat vicissitudes the beau- tiful ^•essel would encounter, making her so noted in history. They had been waiting three days for us and had steam up to leave at daylight. The trou- bles at Guatamala had compelled the company to discontinue the Aspinwall line of steamers for awhile, and that was the last vessel leaving- Gray Town for three months. What would have been the consequence if we had been a few hours later it is hard to tell. As it was our long stay on the isthmus cost many poor men their lives. It w'as almost impossible for people to get food even if they had the means, and the steerage passengers lived on green bananas and plantains, the result beine: that the cholera broke out among them as Pen Pictures of Early JJ^esfeiii Days. 151 soon as they boarded tlie Star of the West, and about fifty (bed before we arrived at Key West, where we landed for coal. Strange to say, there was no sickness in any other part of the vessel. I noticed a peculiar motion in the vessel, owing- to the stopping- of the engines, which I found to be for the purpose of giving some poor fellow^ his burial in the briny deep. We spent the most part of the day at Key West, Florida, enjoying the quaint old town, made beautiful by its wealth of magnolia and oleander trees and other beautiful flowers. We also purchased many curios and choice sea shells from the coral reefs nearby. At sundown we again boarded the steamer to find that the steer- age passengers had left in a body for fear of the epidemic. We learned also that the yellow fever was raging in Key West, so I fear they were not much better off. However, strange to say, there was not another case of cholera on the steamer; nevertheless we were compelled to spend the night at quarantine 011 our arrival at New York. I had become quite accustomed to the rolling motion of the Sierra Nevada on the Pacific Ocean, but the Star of the West pitched from bow to stern, and when she mounted a wave and started down the other side my heart went clear down to my boots ; it was like learning all over again. We had the usual storm off Cape Hatteras, l:)ut we weathered it bravelv. The arrival at New York 152 /'('// Pirliircs of Early U\\\icni Days. Septeni1)er l\\ent}'-nintli g'a\-e me no tlirill of ])leas- iire, for I was alread}" loi\g"ing' for my California home. A\'e remained in (juarantine all night ; no one went to bed, hut sang songs, played cards, danced and tried to while away the weary hours. Some one struck up the song. "The sun shies bright on nn- California home," and 1 longed for the lonel}' ranch, e\'en to the coyotes and the grizzly bears. I begged my husband to make a visit and go back, but he said again he never put his hand to the ])l()w and looked back; so with a heavy heart I journeved on to Keokuk to meet man_\- dear friends who were so kind that after awhile 1 became recon- ciled to remain where my lot seemed to be cast, l)ut I have never ceased to remember \\ ith pleasure my lo\-ed home in the land of sunshine and tlowers. Poi Picliirrs of Early JVcslcni Days. 153 CHAPTER XXV. TTILI'^ the clian^'cs on ])rcvi(nis oc- casions of absence had l)een oreat, (hn'ini;- this it was was ahiiost marvelous, and wlien we arrived in Keokuk again with a small fortune in gold, the boom of 1856 was at its height. Prop- erty was held at fabulous prices, people were per- fectly wild and soon my husband was as much so as the rest. Xo persuasion or entreaties on my part could restrain him, and in a short time he had in- \estcd all we had in Keokuk real estate, bought a line home on Grand A\'enue at the head of Sev- enth street, and proceeded to enjoy life. But alas for human plans they "Aft gang agiee." The social side of life was most delightful. Every one seemed prospering; parties, receptions and entertainment was constantly going" on, which were never excelled in this place. The first theater called the Athaeneum, was erected about 1856 on Second street, between Main and Johnson. It w'as well patronized and many * high-class entertainments were given. One of the most elaborate theatricals ever gotten up here was that of the IMistletoe Bough, presented by some young people for a charitable object. It would have 154 -f*'"" Pictures of Early JJ'cstcni Day^. (lone credit to professionals in point of elegance and beauty of the participants. The costumes of the ladies were many of them heirlooms of brocade and velvet trimmed with rare old lace, with rouge and powder and patches. The gentlemen who were in colonial dress of velvet and buff satin, knee pants and buckles with wigs and cues, were royal com- panions for the grace and beauty of the ladies. The play — a pantomine — was given three nights and the house was packed each night. One of the notable gatherings of 1856 was called the "Southern Ball," gotten up by the South- ern element which was very strong, composed of people from several southern states, Kentuckians being largely preponderant. This ball was intended to and probably did sur- pass in point of elegance anything ever given here before. No pains were spared in its appointments; for weeks little else was thought or talked of among the gay set, and it seemed the climax of splendor for the little city. And indeed was almost a forerunner of the crash of 1857, whose faint warnings were even then beginning to be felt, which in a few short months changed the aspect of the town in business as well as socially. Many of those who appeared to be on the top way of prosperity lost their all in the general wreck. Property that had been valued at fabulous prices could hardly be given away ; business was at a stand- Pen Pictures of Early JJ'eslern Days. 155 still; many additions which had been laid off with the expectations of making- their owners wealthy, were returned to their original use as corn fields or ])()tato patches, with no signs of extending the town for years to come. Before there were an}' indications of returning prosperity, the clouds of disagreement between the North and South, which had seemed but clouds in the distance, broke o\'er us, and the first gun fired in Charleston harbor echoed in Keokuk. Being situated so near the border, and with such varied elements, feeling ran high. And now indeed nothing was talked of but the war. It was hoped, however, that before the time of the men enlisted for one hundred days expired, all would be set- tled. Many of the men began to organize com- panies and regiments for the continuance of the strife, which was assuming such alarming propor- tions. As will be seen from history, many Keokuk men received commissions elsewhere. But Com- pany A of Iowa Second Regiment was eminently a Keokuk company, and was composed mostly of the crack militia company of the city wdio had vol- unteered almost in a body. And many of the brav- est Iowa officers were selected from the Keokuk rifles. The regiment was in camp here awaiting orders, w hich might come at any time. The days were re- plete with interesting occurrences. Among them 13^) Pen Piciurcs of P.arJ\ ]]'cstcrn Days. few will remember the making of the first flag- tliat went from Keokuk to the scene of conflict. A small l)an(l of patriotic women resolved that our b()_\s should have a flne flag. I being young and energetic, was awarded the honor of managing the enterprise. I ordered the silk, for it must be made of silk, and when it came planned and cut out the beautiful emblem. For many days a faithful half- dozen met at my house and sewed the long seams, and deft lingers placed the white stars on the field of blue. The staff was made of strong wood, with hea\'y cord and tassels. It was the regulation size, and when all was completed we were quite satisfied with the result of our labors. We went out often to see the soldiers drill, and arranged for a grand presentation. But alas ! before the day arrived to present our beautiful banner, the Iowa Second Regi- ment was ordered to the front. One of the large St. Louis packets, the Jennie Dean, was chartered to take them south. Nothing daunted, however, the faithful half-dozen rose with the dawn on that memorable morning, gathered flowers in the rain, and with them and the beloved flag- hurried down to the wharf, where all the citi- zens were assembled, and amid smiles and tears gave it to those we lo\-ed so well, to be borne by them to victory or death. \\'e showered them with flowers, and as the steamer swung out into the stream a loud hurrah went up from the soldiers l\-)i I'icturcs of Early U'cstcrii Days. 157 l)()\-s for "The twirls they left behind them." Com- pany A carried our Hag- all through the war, bring- ing- it back tattered and torn by shot and shell. It was taken to Des Moines where it is still preserved as a i)recious relic among' others at the capital, \\hile most of those whose love and loyalty were in its making have crossed the divide. Keokuk was selected as a hospital post, and there were established five hospitals, the Estes House and the Keokuk Hotel being the larg'est. Hundreds of sick and disabled soldiers were brought here. The arrival of a steam boat with a yellow flag- was the signal for every one to turn out to their assistance, and the inhabitants never failed in their devotion to those who were defending- our beloved country. Our National Cemetery speaks for itself of those who found their last l:)ivouac on its cpiiet slopes. One niigh go on and relate many interesting- events of the years of the Civil War. They are of so recent date, however, as to be well remembered l)y the present inhabitants. But most of those who played their part in the earlier days have passed to the Beyond, and only two or three remain, and of these only one to gather up the threads of memo- ries of the past and weave them into Pen Pictures of the Beautiful Long Ago. THE END. jmm J^. ^Wi''(^ '^ f,< ill