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TRAVELS 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 THE WESTERN INTERIOR 
 
 OF THE 
 
 Sjnited states, 
 
 FROM THE YEAR 1808 tiP TO THE YEAR I8I65 
 
 , WITH A 
 
 PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION OF A GREAT PART OP 
 
 -^lEXICO, OR NEW.SPAIN. 
 
 # ■ •* 
 
 COSTAINIIfff, 
 
 Aparticular acjpunt of thirteen different tribes of Indians through which the author 
 lassed; describing their Manners, Customs, &c.; wiUi some account of a tribe 
 ^hose customs are similar to those of the aucient W^h. ' 
 
 • VALUABLE HIST 
 
 f 
 
 DRAWN FROM 
 
 ELIZABETHTOWN, N. J. 
 
 PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR. 
 
 1816. 
 
Fd°i-^ 
 
 . K 
 
 '^ c> 
 
 DISTRICT OF XEW'JERSEY, SS; 
 
 Be it rewehbered, that on the thirtieth day ef May, in We fortietli' 
 year of the Independence of the United States of America, Henry Ker, of t*^'" 
 said district, hath deposited in this office the title of a book, the right wherec^^ .e 
 claims as author, in the words following, to wit : 
 
 " Travels through the Western Interior of the United States, from the year 
 1808 up to the year 1816, With a particular description of a great part of Mexi- 
 co, or New-Spain. Containing a particular account of thirteen different tribe^ of 
 Indians through which the author passed ; describing their manners, customs, &c. ; 
 "With some account of a tribe whose customs are similar to those of the anoeot 
 Welch. Interspersed with valuable Historical information, drawr^frora the Ijtest 
 authorities. By Henry Ker." i 
 
 In conformity to an act of the congress of the United States, entitled, ** Ai act 
 for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts and 
 books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein aen- 
 tioned :" and also to the act,.entitled, " An act supplementary to the act, entled. 
 An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, oarts, 
 and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times tet^ein 
 mentioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engivinav. 
 and etching, historical and other prints." 
 
 ROBT. BOGGS, 
 Clerk of tlie District of New-Jc ey. 
 
 ^ TraasJW 
 
 AUG 12 1W7 
 
 ERRATA. 
 Page 63, bottom line, for, brig Dolphin, read, schooner Friendship. 
 Page 1 80, twenty -first line from the top, for, the platina may he cut wit » a knifci^ 
 read, by working round the platina with a knife large pieces of it may be (;4ken oaU 
 
 •r 
 

 PREFACE 
 
 5-e^ 
 
 The author begs leave to offer an explanation of some 
 parts of the work, which he deems necessary for it to be 
 well understood. When he first contemplated writing 
 a history of his travels, his intention was to have given a 
 correct diary of every transaction which might occur 
 tliroughout his tour : but this he sochi found to be im- 
 practicable. The notes which he took ivere many of them 
 injured by the weather and other accidents which oc- 
 curred on the journey, and, although the circumstances 
 were fresh in his memory, the exact date could not be 
 ascertained ; he has, therefore, introduced the dates where 
 it was in his power, and where they were not to be had, 
 left it to the judgment and candour of the reader to sup- 
 ply the omission. 
 
 Some apology is likewise necessary for the style of the 
 work, which the author is fully sensible is in many places 
 objectionable ; but he laboured under disadvantages in 
 writing it, which it is impossible for him fully to ex- 
 plain. 
 
iv PREFACE. 
 
 It is hope^ a candid aild judicioifs ptfbfic ^ill select 
 from the work such informatiou as may li^ correct, 
 and that the remainder,* if* nm, vi^r net^^e irc^Hjted to 
 wilful misrepresentation, but to the ignorance of the au- 
 thor, and the impracticability of his procuring correct 
 information. ^ ^. 
 
 ff^ 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Pago 
 Author's birth and education—General description of London — 
 
 Author departs for the United States — Arrives at Charles- 
 ton — Travels into the interior — Large rattlesnake - 9 
 CHAP. n. 
 
 Author descends the river French Broad — Description of the 
 river — Lead mines — Description of Tennessee river — Chick- 
 asaw Indians — Ohio river — Grandeur of the Missisippi — 
 Causes which render its navigation so dangerous - 21 
 
 CHAP. in. 
 
 Alarm of the author for his salety, with the melancholy fate of 
 one of his men — General cbservat ons on the country —De- 
 scription of the Osark Indians — Arrival at Natches — Pleas- 
 ing appearance of the sugar plantations - - - 27 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Arrival at New-Orleans — Description of the city — Its rapid im- 
 provement — Causes why it is sickly - - - - 4(j 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Author goes to Jamaica — Leaves Jamaica for Port au Prince — 
 Description of a singular cave — Author takes passage for the 
 United States, and is shipwrecked — Melancholy death of 
 Capt. Crasewell — Author returns to Kingston in Jamaica — 
 Departs for the United States, and arrives at New-Orleans 51 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 Author leaves New-Orleans — Ascends the Red river — Arrives 
 at Natchitoches — Beauty of the country — Arrives among the 
 Cadoe Indians — Vast herds of buffalo and deer — Description 
 of streams which empty into Red river — Singular cave - 74 
 
 CHAP VIL 
 Author arrives among the Uames Indians — Ascends a branch of 
 Red river — Salt spring — Immense herds of buffalo — Returns 
 
VI CONTENTS. 
 
 to Red river — Arrives among the Ilisees Indians — Copper 
 mine — Indian iiunt— Author parts with his boat and proceeds 
 by land to the source of Red river ... .' PO 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 More particular description of the Ilisees — Danger of the author » 
 from wild beasts — Arrives at a settlement of Spaniards and 
 Indians— Story of my Spanish host — Parathee Indians - 105 
 CHAP. IX. 
 Difficulties i;.^ crossing the river Gagundo — Alligators — De- 
 scription of the Badies Indians — General remarks on the 
 
 nature of the savages 115 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 Salt springs — Description of a large snake which the author 
 killed — Indian hunting camp — Author loses his rifle - 1 30 
 CHAP. XI. 
 Author arrives at the town of the Yarotees — Is requested to af- 
 ford assistance in a war — ^Weapons of the Yarotees - 1 39 
 CHAP. XII. 
 Success of the Indian enterprise — Author leaves the Yarotees — 
 Similarity between many of their religious ceremonies and 
 those of the ancient Jews — Comparison of ancient prophecies 145 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 Author encounters a bear — Observations on the decline of the 
 Spanish monarchy — Author kills an elk - - - \5$ 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 Author arrives among the Mnacedeus Indians, and accompanies 
 them on a hunt — Their consternation at seeing firearms 1^ 
 
 CHAP. XV. * 
 
 Author visits a larger village of the Mnacedeus — Observes 
 strong marks of their Welch origin — Finds considerable pla- 
 tina in their possession — Feigns sickness — Curious treatment 1 67 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Author is introduced to a white man — His account of himself — 
 Author gains his confidence and is shown the platina mine 173 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 Melancholy of the white man — Author is sentenced to be shot, 
 and is rescued by the chief's daughter — Pursues his journey 18 
 
CONTENTS. vii 
 
 CHAP. XVIII. 
 
 General observations on the country — Author meets a party of 
 Indians and accompanies them to their camp — Their superi- 
 ority to the Mnacedeus — Description of odoriferous shrubs 
 and trees found on the mountains — Delay in the journey 192 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 Author enters the Mexican empire — General account of the pro- 
 vince of Tula — Author visits a monastery — Xilotepec - 200 
 CHAP. XX. 
 Particular description of the city of Xilotepec — Description of a 
 natural bridge similar to that in A^irginia — Description of a 
 cave — Author arrives at the city of Mexico - - 209 
 
 CHAP. XXI. 
 General description of Mexico and its inhabitants - - 218 
 
 CHAP. XXII. 
 Description of the vale of Mexico — Climate, volcanoes, rivers, 
 , lakes, and mineral productions of the country - - 225 
 
 CHAP. XXIII. 
 Vegetable productions of Mexico — Description of a tree which 
 produces liquid amber — Description of animals peculiar to 
 Mexico — Great variety of birds . - - . 234 
 
 CHAP. XXIV. 
 Description of reptiles found in Mexico — Zoophytes - 245 
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 Particular description of the inhabitants of the Mexican empire 
 — Inhumanity of the first conquerors of Mexico — Humane 
 interposition of Las Casas — Illiberality of the government 250 
 CHAP. XXVI. 
 Review of the benefits which have resulted to Europeans from 
 the discovery of America — Expedition of Cortez > - 263 
 
 CHAP XXVII. 
 Author's further residence in Mexico being unsafe, he leaves 
 the country — He is surrounded by a banditti and taken to 
 their cave— He acquires the frieodsbip of the captain - 26S 
 CHAP. XXVIII. 
 The band go on an exp^ dition, and confine the author during 
 their absence — Ctuarrel between the^captaia and one of the men 282 
 
viu CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. XXIX. 
 
 Author leaves the cavern — Reflections oo his former situation 
 and present prospects — Arrival at Natchitoches - - ^293 
 CHAP. XXX. 
 
 Departure for the Tuckapau and ApaUisa towns— Chickasaw 
 Indians — Nashville — Enchanted mountain - - - 299 
 
 CHAP. xxxr. 
 
 Knoxville — Medical spring — Abingdon — Georgetown - 309 
 
 CHAP. XXXII. 
 
 Lexington — Mammoth bones — Tradition of the Shawanese 318 
 
 CHAP. XXXIII. 
 General information respecting the western country - 325 
 
 CHAP. XXXIV. 
 White Court house — Choctaw Indians— St. Stephens — Mobile 
 — Pensacola-^Observations on the soil of West-Florida 328 
 
 CHAP. XXXV. 
 
 Author starts for the northern parts of the United States - 336 
 
 CHAP. XXXVI. 
 
 Fort Hawkins — Remains of the ingenuity of the Indians — Au- 
 gusta — Manner in which the Georgians spend their time 341 
 
 CHAP, xxxvir. 
 
 Columbia — Camden — Pedee river — Fayetteville - - 347 
 
 CHAP. XXXVIII. 
 Description of the soil, climate, &c. of North-Carolina, with the 
 character of its inhabitants - - - - . 354 
 
 . CHAP. XXXIX. 
 Wilmington, N. C. — Author sails for Philadelphia — Wilming- 
 ton, Del. -../..--- 357 
 CHAP. XL. f 
 General description of the city of Philadelphia - -" 364 
 
 CHAP. XLL 
 Trenton — Princeton— New Brunswick — Elizabethtown — Con- 
 clusion of the author's travels 369 
 
TRAVELS, &c. 
 
 CHAP. L 
 
 Autlwr's birth and education — Disposition fox a xvander- 
 ing life — London — General description of it — Puhli<: 
 buildings — St, James'' s Palace — Schools — Povert^^ of 
 the poorer class — Departure for Charleston — Intelli- 
 gence and hospitality of the inhabitants — Travels in 
 
 the interior Orangeburgh Columbia — Abbeville — 
 
 Greenville — Bunkum— rJ^arm Springs — Large rattle- 
 Make — Arrival at Newport. 
 
 The author thinks it necessary, before he commences 
 a detailed account of his journey, to say something 
 relative to his friends and family. When any one intrudes 
 himself upon public notice, every person will naturally 
 enquire, Whence came he ? Who were his family? &c. 
 These queries I shall endeavour to answer, as soon and 
 as satisfactorily as possible. 
 
 I was born in Boston, in the state of Massachusetts. 
 My father, when I was at an early age, removed to Lon- 
 don, where I continued until I was at the age of man- 
 hood. My infantile years I shall pass over in silence,, 
 and shall only observe, that I was placed at Westminster 
 
10 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 schoo!, and received such an education as would fit me 
 for common business. My propensity for a wandering 
 life, however, was very strong, and I found it impossi- 
 ble to content myself in the dull routine of employments 
 which had not noveky to recommend them to the atten- 
 tion of a mind, already dazzled by the glowing description 
 which I received of that part of southern America which 
 had been but superficially explored. My mind already 
 roamed over a country, which was said to be rich in every 
 thing which could render the life of man agreeable, and 
 superabundantly contained that which is now considered 
 as the standard of merit, and without which, let our 
 talents and virtue be ever so great, we are under the ne- 
 cessity of standing in the back ground, and giving way to 
 one* who can count more thousands than oiu'selves, and 
 see him placed in the seat of honour, and complimented 
 with the greatest respect. Educated in what has been 
 called the metropolis of Europe, it may not be thought 
 improper that I should give a general account of it. 
 
 London, the capital of the British empire, is asserted 
 by Mr. Pinkerton to be the largest city in Europe ; 
 whilst others are disposed to allow Paris not only to be the 
 largest in point of popvdation, but in the extent of ground 
 which it covers. Without entering into any discussion 
 on this subject, it is certain that it was a very flourishing 
 city in the time of Nero, and when the Roman empire 
 was at its zenith of prosperity ; it received some conside- 
 rable privileges under the Emperor Augustus, and he not 
 only laid the foundation, but completed an aqueduct, 
 which, for magnificence, was not surpassed by any thing 
 of that time, and the ruins of which may be seen at this 
 day. It was, at a very early period, made the residence 
 of the British court, and almost every king granted it 
 
11 
 
 le privileges. ^Tifmetime of Henry VIII. 
 when almost every city lost its charter, that of London 
 was confirmed, and its citizens protected. It includes 
 the suburbs of Westminster and Southwark, which, it is 
 thought, will be the handsomest part of the city. The 
 streets are for the most part narro^v, and the general ap- 
 pearance irregular. Had the improvements which were 
 suggested by Sir Christopher Wren, after the great fire 
 of 1666, been followed, it would have been the most 
 elegant and beautiful city in Europe ; but the parsimony 
 of its citizens prevented them, at that time, from making 
 such improvements as would have been highly beneficial 
 at the present period. Its docks, and other convenien- 
 ces for commerce, are excellent, and admit of very little 
 improvement. The London dock is a fine harbour for 
 vessels, and under such excellent regulations as render it 
 one of the finest places -in the world for foreign ships 
 which are lading and unlading. At six in the evening 
 the gates are shut, which is notified by the ringing of a 
 bell, and no person is allowed to go out or come in, until 
 a certain hour in the morning. At nine o'clock the lights 
 on board of each ship are required to be put out : a non- 
 compliance subjects to the penalty of five poimds. 
 Watchmen are stationed at proper places during the 
 night, and every thing is calculated for the security and 
 protection of property. 
 
 The public buildings of London are many, and some 
 of them very convenient and elegant. The Royal Ex- 
 change is said to be the largest and most convenient pub- 
 lic building in Europe, next to that of Amsterdam, after 
 ^v hose model it is built. It has been proudly asserted by 
 its merchants, that goods to the amount of more than ten 
 millions of pounds have been sold in one day ; and certain 
 
:^"^Nv^ 
 
 12 KER'i TRAVELS. .^ ^ 
 
 it is, that at particular noiirs you may find nicrchaMs 
 from almost all parts of the globe ; Japanese, Chinese, 
 Grecians, Turks, Spaniards, Frenchmen, and Ameri- 
 cans, mingling and conversing as familiarly together as 
 though they had been born neighbours. The British 
 merchants are said to be punctual and honourable in their 
 dealings, but are too apt to plunge into speculations be- 
 yond their capital and become involved in debt. Hence 
 arise those large failures of which we almost every day 
 hear, and which are often very fatal to many industrious 
 and worthy men : but, however, the instances are rare, 
 where a British merchant fails for the purpose of defraud- 
 ing his creditors, and such is their liberality, that they 
 generally give him an opportunity of compromising on 
 liberal terms. 
 
 The Mansion House is a large stone building, which 
 has nothing very remarkable to recommend it to the at- 
 tention of travellers, except a gallery of paintings, in 
 which are some well executed pieces ; among which is 
 one representing our Saviour on the cross, and another 
 xepresenting him talking with the Samaritan, &c. Many 
 of the rooms are spacious and elegant, particularly the ball- 
 room; and some of them furnished with taste and elegance. - 
 
 Guildhall is a large and spacious edifice, where most of 
 the public business in flie city is done, and where the dif- 
 ferent incorporated bodies have their rooms, for the pur- 
 pose of transacting business : there are a number of these 
 bodies, almost every trade associating together, for the 
 purpose of regulating journeymen's wages, the premiums 
 to be given by apprentices, prices of work, &:c. Many* 
 of the companies are wealthy, and have been of much 
 public benefit, by contributing to the wants of the poo^ 
 in times of scaixity and distress. 
 
KER^S TRAVELS. 13 
 
 The places of public worship are numerous, being 
 upwards of five hundred in number, some of them very 
 elegant, and all worthy of notice. St. Paul's, being the 
 most remarkable, Vidll be particularly mentioned. It ^vas 
 built by Sir Christopher Wren, after an exact model of 
 the one at Rome, and is the most surprising monument 
 of one man's ingenuity, of any thing in the world. It is 
 built in the form of a cross, of white freestone ; it is 
 adorned at the corners with the figures of the four Evan- 
 gelists, and over the door is an elegant representation of 
 St. Paul, as large as life. In the body of tlie church are 
 many fine monuments, reared by the munificence of the 
 British government, for the purpose of doing honour to 
 those who fell in her service. Among them is one erected 
 to the memory of Major General Abercrombie, who fell 
 in Egypt, a most masterly piece of sculpture, which does 
 honour to the artist who designed and executed it. A 
 monumental statue of the celebrated philanthropist 
 Howard, is here erected, and will transmit to posterity 
 the virtues and benevolence of a man, who went about 
 doing good, and spent his whole life in endeavours to 
 ameliorate the distresses of the most -wretched and misera- 
 ble part of creation. Another, in the centre of the 
 church, is erecting, to perpetuate the memory of the im- 
 mortal Nelson, who fell at the battle of Trafalgar. He 
 certainly attained to a high degree of naval skill, and had 
 it not been for his excessive pride, might justly have been 
 called great. 
 
 St. James's Palace, where the court of the present reign- 
 ing monarch is kept, has very little in its exterioi' to 
 recommend it to a traveller \vho is a connoisseur in archi- 
 tecture. It is an irregular building, and of difterent 
 orders of architecture, having had many additions made 
 
14 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 to it by the different reigning sovereigns : the interior, 
 however, is furnished in a style of magnificence which 
 makes ample amends for its exterior. The rooms are 
 sj5acious, and some are wainscotted with English oak, 
 which gives them a very novel and handsome appearance. 
 'Those parts of the house which are occupied by his 
 Majesty, are distinguished for their plainness: indeed, this 
 monarch has never shown a strong desire for parade and 
 magnificence, being contented to be led by those who 
 are plkced about ,his person, and to yield a blind obedi- 
 ence to the directions of his ministers. The buildings 
 situated around it, and at the west end of the town, are 
 distinguished for their elegance, and for the spaciousness 
 of their rooms. Luxury is carried to a very great height 
 in this city, not only in the dress and equipage, but in 
 every thing, however minute, which is found in a noble- 
 man's house. The Duke of Portland built a palace, 
 sometime since, that cost 250,000/. sterling ! 
 
 The public seminaries for the instruction of youth are 
 numerous, and many of tliem well supported : there are 
 about five thousand schools, one half of which may be 
 considered as supported by the different public bodies, 
 churches, &c. 
 
 The great numbers of paupers which daily infest the 
 streets, are a great annoyance to passengers, at the same 
 time that they prove the excessive wretchedness and 
 misery which has pervaded the British capital. There 
 are one hundred and twenty-two asylums for the poor, 
 besides hospitals and infirmaries to receive those who are 
 sick ; yet such is the number of beggars, tliat it is al- 
 most impossible to go an hundred yards without being 
 saluted by half a dozen, humbly intreating for a morsel 
 of bread ^^ «^'^+icfv thf^ rravinp-s of huns:er. Thev arc. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 15 
 
 generally, disabled soldiers or sailors, who, having lost an 
 arm or a leg, are obliged to beg theii' bread from door to 
 door. Such ts the fate of men, who, having toiled arid 
 bled in their country's service, are now reduced to the 
 greatest distress. Although government pretends to pro- 
 vide for them, the provision is swallowed up by the multi- 
 tude of officers who are placed over them, and very little of 
 it reaches the poor wTCtches for whom it is collected. — 
 But enough of misery and distress : I turn with pleasure 
 to contemplate a government which has uniformly sup- 
 ported the unfortunate, and which will ever be the pro- 
 tector of those who expose themselves in the ^* batde's 
 front" for their country's good. The United States have 
 ever displayed a generosity in that respect, which it would 
 have been much to the credit of Europe had she general- 
 ly followed. '' 
 
 In a city containing six hundred thousand people, it is 
 to be expected that there should be all gradations, from 
 the extreme of virtue, to that of vice ; and it is calcu- 
 lated that there are upwards of twenty-six thousand pros- 
 titutes, and more than fifty thousand men who get their 
 living by gambling and theft. I shall make no com- 
 ments, but leave it to the reader to determine, whether a 
 nation can be happy which has more than one-eighth of 
 the population of its capital made up of ^vretches who 
 are unfit for civilized society, and not worthy to be con 
 sidered as any other than the dregs of mankind. 
 
 Being desirous of an expeditious passage to the United 
 States, I engaged my passage on boai'd the ship Bedford, 
 Captain Dennison, and after having bid my friends an af 
 fectionate adieu, I proceeded to Gravesend and went on 
 board. The wind proving unfavourable, we were de^ 
 tained in the roads four days : the Avind then bein^ more 
 
16 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 propitious, ^ve took our departure from the land on the 
 25th of April, 1808, and steered for Charleston. The 
 first ten days of our voyage were pleasariC, and nothing 
 remarkable took place until we made the Western Islands^ 
 when a severe gale came on, which lasted four days ; it 
 blew with extreme violence, and the Captain informed me 
 that such gales were frequent in these latitudes, owing, as 
 he imagined, to the air from off the Atlantic rushing for- 
 w^ard to supply the place of the rarefied air in and about 
 the Western Islands. The weather soon herame mode- 
 rate, and we iirrived at Charleston after a passage of 
 thirty-five days. 
 
 I had now arrived- in a country which gave me birth, 
 but from which, ever since I was an infant, I had been 
 absent. My feelings were wrought up to the highest 
 pitch of expectation, and they were not disappointed : I 
 found the people hospitable and intelligent, and every way 
 disposed to give me that information for which I sought. 
 I had in cash about two thousand dollars, and immedi- 
 ately set about purchasing a horse and such other articles 
 as I should want on my journey, determining to make no 
 delay in its prosecution. 
 
 It \vas my determination to visit some unexplored 
 parts, in quest of the hidden stores of nature, with which, 
 it was reasonable to suppose, the country abounded. 
 During my stay here, which was about two months, I 
 had an opportunity of discovering the different disposi- 
 tions of the people. Some intriguing characters took 
 great pains to lead me into the theory of gaming ; but 
 I found afterwards they were more willing to swindle me 
 in the practical part. After losing a little in this way, I 
 wholly renounced all kinds of gambling. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 17 
 
 On the 10th of August I left Chai'leston. The weath- 
 er, being extremely ^\'Hrm, was to me very unpleasant : 
 but knowhig that I must become a constant companion of 
 heat and cold, fatigue, hunger, thirst, and toil, I con- 
 tented myself with the anticipation of hereafter at- 
 tributing something to myself, or being richly stored with 
 experience. I that day travelled about twenty miles, 
 and at sunset put up \vith a gentleman, by whom 
 I was well treated. After breakfast, I set out with an 
 old man, who was travelling on the same road. From 
 him I received much information. His knowledge was 
 experimental ; and he gave me new plans to act upon, 
 which I have since found advantageous. In him I 
 could perceive the workings of anxiety for mvseif. My 
 ardour and impatience, he had penetration to see, would 
 frequently expose me to those impositions, sufferings, and 
 dangers, inevitably attendant upon an inexperienced travel- 
 ler, among rude and inhospitable men, and furious savages. 
 Nothing worthy of note occurred during my journey to 
 Orangeburgh, a small town containing 40 or 50 houses, a 
 court-house, and goal: it Js about ninety miles from 
 Charleston, and stands on the east side of the north branch 
 of the Edisto river. From thence I steered my course 
 to Columbia, a beautiful town situated in Kershaw 
 county, about half a mile from the Congaree river, on 
 the east side, just below the confluence of Saluda and 
 Broad rivers. It is regularly built, and contains about 
 two hundred houses, many of which are neat and of 
 brick, also a state-house : it is one hundred and twenty 
 miles north northwest of Charleston, and is the seat of 
 government for the state of South- Carolina, in latitude 
 32'' 58' north, and 80° 50' west longitude. The second 
 dav after mv arrival in Columbia, I "was violentlv attack- 
 
18 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 ed with the biHoiis fever, which confined me to my 
 room for diirty days, and was attended with considerable 
 expense. 
 
 About the middle of September I again set out, satis- 
 fied with having had a change of climate. After travel- 
 ling two days 1 arrived at Abbeyville, a small village on 
 a fertile spot of ground. Such spots I found to be very 
 few during my journey over a sandy, bturen waste of 
 country. In this neighbourhood are many good tampers, 
 who raise cotton, tobacco, &c. From this place I 
 went to Greenville, a pleasant town, situated on the 
 west side of the Great Pedee river ; it contains about 
 fifty houses, besides a court-house, goal, and acade- 
 my ; it is ninety miles northeast of Columbia. Here I 
 staid a few days at the house of Col. Alston^ a gentleman 
 of respectability, from whom I received much valuable in- 
 formation relative to the adjacent states, their commercial 
 interests, enterprising spirit of the Americans, &c. He 
 spoke highly of the country west of the Missisippi, wish- 
 ing me great success in my undertaking. During my 
 stay here I was free of expense, and under the direction 
 of one, whose knowledge was extensive and useful. 
 
 From Greenville, I went to Bunkum in North-Caro- 
 lina, a small town subject to different titles, such as 
 Upper and Lower Hog-thief, Scurmagefiil, and Scuffle- 
 town. Whether these terms correspond with the gene- 
 ral character of the inhabitants, or not, I am unable to 
 determine. Here are a court-house and goal, and many 
 good fiirms adjacent. From this place I steered my 
 course for the Warm Springs, a distance of about forty 
 miles, through a broken, mountainous, and hilly country, 
 wishing to spare no pains in visiting all natural curiosit-es. 
 After winding through many romantic scenes I airived at 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 19 
 
 Mr. Nelson's, the proprietor of the springs, who keeps a 
 commodious house for the purpose of entertaining visitors, 
 and had, at the time of my arrival, upwards of eighty- 
 boarders, afflicted with different diseases. How bountiful 
 is nature, in opening her medical treasures to oppose and 
 combat the afflictions laid on the human system. I was 
 informed of several wonderful cures effected by these 
 springs. An elderly gentleman, who was afflicted witfi 
 the palsy, and had been for ten years a burthen to himself, 
 and an object of sorrow to his friends, reduced to a mere 
 skeleton and seemed to be hovering over the grave ; on 
 making use of the water, die first ten days had no effect ; 
 but after remaining there three months was completely 
 restored to health. He was upwards of seventy years old, 
 and on his return home, which was in South- Carolina, 
 he was unknown by his wife, having a fresh countenance ; 
 the blood flowed freely tlirough hiiy withered veins, and 
 in two years two fine children were added to his family. 
 A boy of about sixteen, who was much afflicted with the 
 jaundice, insomuch tliat he had become completely 
 yellow, on using these waters was restored to health, and 
 received his natural colour. It has also proved an enemy 
 to the fever and ague, a malady so prevalent in the south- 
 ern states. There are several of tliese springs, in one of 
 which the thermometer stands at 80°. Over this there is 
 a bathing-house constructed for the convenience of each 
 sex. These springs are in lat. SS"" 50' north, 710 miles 
 southwest of Philadelphia, and hid in a cluster of rocks of 
 stupendous size, hanging over the astonished -beholder, 
 and their bowels pregnant with restorative fluids. 
 
 " Cliffs heaped on cliifs, high towerhig to the skies, 
 " While deep in earth their solid basis Ues.*' 
 
20 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 This countiy is watered with ttiany beautiful streams, 
 which ghde swiftly through the sands — a pleasant sight 
 to a weary traveller. During my stay here, which ^vas 
 about a week, I. took a little excursion into the country, 
 and on my return killed a large rattlesnake, measuring six 
 feet in length and nine inches in circumference. On my ap- 
 proaching him he lay in a posture of defence, with his up- 
 per-jaw thrown back at a right angle with the lower, his head 
 raised eight or ten inches from the ground, launching 
 forth his pointed tongue, dipped in \uenom, exhibiting his 
 crooked fangs,' and striking dumb terror to his enemies. 
 This being the first snake of the kind I had ever seen, I 
 dared not move for fear of being chased ; but drcAv out 
 one of my pistols and shot him in the back, which disa- 
 bled him from running. He then unsluiced his rage, 
 choaking himself with poison, biting himself in several 
 places, and in ten nlinutes died witli his tusks in his 
 own body. There were on his tail twenty rattles, \vhich, 
 as I was informed, indicated his age to be twenty years. 
 The bite of this snake is supposed by many to be incurable. 
 It has, however, been repeatedly proved, that immediate 
 applications an*est the progress of the poison of tliis ven- 
 omous reptile. A mixture of a decoction of plantain and 
 s^veet oil, applied externally, and taken at the same time 
 as a drink, has been found very efficacious. 
 
 On the 27th of September, the weather being pleasant^ 
 I set out for Newport, a small town on the river French 
 Broad. At sunset I arrived, having much difficulty in 
 finding the town ; for it was hid in a deep valley. It is 
 the most licentious place in the state of Tennessee, con- 
 taining pbout twenty houses of sloth, indolence, and dis- 
 sipation. It is not my desire to stigmatize the character 
 of any place ; but Vv hen I discover people inhabiting a 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 21 
 
 Gountry of so much importance, and w here they live in 
 peace and plenty, subject only to wholesome laws, con- 
 tinually violating the laws of God and their country, I can- 
 not avoid expressing my disgust, and considering them an 
 injury to their country, and a disgrace to the human family . 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 The author descends the river French Broad-— Descrip- 
 tion of the river — Prevalence of fogs — Plenty of game 
 — Bears — Lead mines — Leaky boat obliges me to 
 unlade — Excessive rains — Fort Granger — Description 
 of Tennessee river— Description of the Chickasaw tribe 
 of Indians— Enters the Ohio— Beauty and richness of 
 its banks — Singular occurrence at the mouth of Ohio 
 river— Grandeur of the Missisippi— Great quantity of 
 drift-wood— Severe storm — Perilous situation of the ^ 
 author— Causes why the navigation of the Missisippi 
 river is rendered so dangerous — General description of 
 it. 
 
 At Newport I sold my horse, and purchased an ark, or 
 flat-bottomed boat, of about twelve tons burthen, and hired 
 three men to descend the river to New- Orleans. On the 
 1st of October I beg^n to descend French Broad. This 
 river runs a northwest course about 25 or 30 miles, and 
 joins the Holston ; it is very difficult for strangers to pass, 
 in consequence of the number of rocks which lie scattered 
 in the river. It is four or five hundred yards wide at its 
 
22 KER'S TRAVELS, 
 
 mouth. The next morning, at sunrise, we enterd the 
 Holston, a considerable stream, about 200 miles in 
 length ; in its course it receives the Watauga and French 
 Broad, and is navigable for crafts of thirty tons burthen 
 100 miles from its mouth. Its shores abound with much 
 valuable timber of all kinds. There are many indolent 
 people who inhabit these shores, who live solely by hunt- 
 ing and fishing, being very different from those who live 
 in the inhabited parts of the state. The heavy fogs, which 
 frequently arise on these rivers, often detained us for hours, 
 in w^hich time 1 would frequently take a little tour with 
 my gun. This country abounds with game of all kinds, 
 delightful for a sportsman. In one of these excursions, 
 I shot a bear as he was clumsily getting down a tree : the 
 ball entered the fleshy part of his body, and he fell to the . 
 ground. In his fall he was much stunned, and thinking 
 him dead, I went towards him. On my approach he 
 raised himself for an attack. I soon retreated, and 
 getting into the top of a fallen tree, waited his motion. He 
 passed the tree without seeing me, and before I could 
 load and get down, ^vas out of sight. However, I traced 
 him by the blood about a mile, where I found he had 
 crossed a small creek, but was too weak to climb the 
 bank on the opposite side. I here took deliberate aim, 
 and shot him dead. Returning, I sent two of my men 
 after him. When dressed, he weighed four hundred 
 pounds. 
 
 There are several lead mines on these rivers ; one of 
 them, on the French Broad, is very extensive. 
 
 On the 5th October my boat sprang a leak, and I ^vas 
 obliged to take her cargo out and repair her, which em- 
 ployed me for two days. During this time the river rosf 
 
KERS TRAVELS. 23 
 
 seven or eight feet, there having been successive rains for 
 several clays. After reloading we again started, and the 
 Holston soon swept us down to its mouth. At this 
 place stands Fort Granger, which is 370 miles south- 
 west of Richmond, in Virginia. The Holston empties 
 into the Tennessee, a beautiful and bold river, which 
 gives name to the state. It rises in the mountains of 
 South-Carolina, in latitude about 34° nordi, and is up- 
 wards of a thousand miles in length, running a north- 
 westerly course to latitude 30° north, then turning in a 
 circular manner to the north, it mingles with the Ohio, fifty 
 miles from its mouth. 
 
 Boats of almost any burthen can ascend to the Muscle 
 Shoals, which are near three hundred miles from its moutli* 
 Through these shoals the navigation is diflicult. They 
 are three or four miles in breadth, interspersed with small 
 islands, and dividing the stream into many channels. 
 I'he water is very shallow^ and runs with great rapidity. 
 The name is derived from the quantity of shells and fresh- 
 water clams found on the bottom and shores. 
 
 This river is well stored with all kinds of fish common 
 in fresh waters. There is a part of the Chickasaw tribe 
 of Indians that inhabit these shores : of them I purchased 
 a piece of venison weighing twenty pounds. They live 
 transiently in wigwams, and many of them wear clothing. 
 They are very docile ; but addicted to theft, and are few in 
 number. In going down the Tennessee, we had pleasant 
 weather, except the nightly fogs, which were injurious 
 to my health. Time passed away with me, unusually 
 slow ; thinking my experience was not adequate to my 
 present proceedings, and yet not wishing to abandon my 
 undertaking, I passed the time as cheerfully as possible, 
 knowing I must be weaned from all scenes of rural and fan- 
 
54 KER'S TRAYELis. 
 
 ciful pleasure. During our passage down this river, we pass- 
 ed several small towns, which I shall not here describe. 
 
 On the 16th of October we entered the Ohio, a river 
 universally acknowledged to be the most beautiful of any 
 on the continent, or perhaps in the world. It receives 
 many tributary streams, all of which flow through an ex- 
 tensive countrv of rich soil, and covered with valuable tim- 
 ber of immense size. I shall not here particularly de- 
 scribe tlie Ohio, reserving such description for a subse- 
 quent part of my journal. On entering this river, I found 
 the water to be at a medium height, the current delight- 
 fully gentle, and the waters clear, with elevated banks. 
 When we airived near the mouth, we found the current 
 diminishing, and our boat on the point of stopping, the 
 cause then unknown to me ; when all of a sudden, 
 I beheld the Missisippi flowing down with pomp and 
 gi'andeur. 
 
 This river, being much higher than the Ohio, seemed 
 to look upon it with disdain, and receive it with reluc- 
 tance. On entering the Missisippi, we found ourselves 
 carried down by an impetuous current. Night coming 
 on, and looking likely for a storm, I thought it best to 
 come too, which we did after an hour's hard labour. 
 We made several attempts to gain certain objects, but 
 were carried by them with gi'eat rapidity, and our boat 
 being clumsy, it was with much difficulty that we stopped 
 six or seven miles below thfe mouth of the Ohio. Our 
 situation was disagreeable that night, for as ^\t lay in a 
 bend of the river, the drift-wood would set over towards 
 us. As night had come on, and our boat was unmanage- 
 able, we concluded not to look for a better situation, but 
 keep a strict watch with poles, to keep off* the drift. Next 
 morning a storm arose with the sun, and only gave me 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 25 
 
 time to look a little harbour ; it blew a perfect hurricane 
 for six hours, in which time my hauser broke, but being 
 in a small bayau, it did but little injury. It continued to 
 blow hard all night, and a more tremendous storm I 
 never witnessed. Our situation was more dangerous 
 here, than when we lay in the river, on account of the 
 large trees around us. We could hccir, at intervals, the 
 dismal crash of trees at a distance ; one faUing directly 
 across the mouth of the bayau, put us in the greatest fear. 
 The next morning the storm abated, and after cutting a 
 passage through the fallen trees, we cleared out with 
 caution. 
 
 The navigation of the Missisippi is rendered somewhat 
 difficult, and often dangerous, in consequence of the 
 numerous islands, sawyers, planters, &c. which stand 
 in every part of the river. 
 
 Sawyers are large trees standing with their tops fast 
 rooted in the mud, and their butts projecting, some two, 
 some six, and some twenty feet out of the water, inclin- 
 ing down with the current, which keeps them in con- 
 stant motion, rising and falling ; from which they derive 
 their name. They often prove fatal to boats that happen 
 to strike upon them. Their weight is such that they 
 will raise a craft of forty or fifty tons burthen. Old 
 boatmen say they have known them to stand for twenty 
 years, and some not more than two months, appearing 
 and disappearing at different times and different places ; 
 so that the river is always new to an old boatman, and 
 he must k^ep a constant look-out. 
 
 Besides these there are the planters, which stand point- 
 ing up stream, some ynder and some above the surface. 
 They are permanently fixed. Those just under th« 
 >\'ater, may be kno^n by a breach they produce in th^ 
 
 4 
 
i2d KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 water from the rapidity of the cuiTent. "Boats are often 
 stove that run against them. 
 
 There are also many ilsands, formed by the drift- 
 ^vood lodging against the planters above-mentioned - 
 These islands are large and very frequent in this river, 
 some of tliem increasing, and others diminishing. Travel- 
 lers, in going down the Missisippi, are advised on ap- 
 proaching these islands, to ro^v in time into one or other 
 of the sucks, as boats are often carried on their heads, 
 and a saild-bar always projects some distance above. 
 
 The rapidity of this river, and the< great depth of its 
 waters, produce numerous boils, or whirlpools, which ex- 
 tend from shore to shore, and frequently luise under boats, 
 turning them quite round. They arise from the bottom, 
 and bring with them a sediment that gives the water a tliick 
 muddy appearance, which is at first unpleasant to stran- 
 gers. It is of a purgative nature, though thought to be 
 extremely wholesome, and is called the best for sea of any 
 in the world. 
 
 The Missisippi is styled the Nile of North America. 
 It is said to take its rise in the White-bear lake, in 
 latitude between 48 and ^9 degrees north, and, following 
 its windings, it is, accdfding to Morse, up^vards of 3000 
 miles in length, from its source to its discharge into the 
 Gulf of Mexico. 
 
 There are many streams that fall into the Missisippi, 
 fcom the east and from the west. The largest from the 
 west is the Missouri,* 200 miles from the mouth of the 
 Ohio. The Red river enters in about 200 miles above 
 New-Orleans, from the ^vcst. 
 
 On the east, the principal streams are the Illinois and 
 Ohio. The Illinois is received about 20 miles above th< 
 Missouri, and 220 above the Ohio. 
 
 * See LewU and Clarke's Travel? 
 
KER^S TRAVELS. 27 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 JVav- Madrid— Mar m of the author for his own safety, 
 with the melancholy fate of one of his men — Plenty 
 of game — Excessive rain — General observations on the 
 country both sides of the Missisippi — Comparison be- 
 tween the healthiness of the climate and that of Ohio — 
 Author kills a large panther — Slow progress i?i^7rste?id~ 
 ing the river — Description of the manner in which it is 
 performed— Usefuhess of steam-boats in its naviga- 
 tion Crazy state of the author's boat — Impositions 
 
 practiced by boat-builders— Difficulty and danger of 
 descending the river — Beauty of the scenery on the 
 river — Description of the Osar/c tribe of Indians — 
 Hospitality of a French gentleman — Arrival at Natch- 
 es fFashington — Reasons why it is declining in popu- 
 lation—Pleasing appearance of the sugar plantations- 
 Singular appearance of the river. 
 
 On the 20th of October we reached New-Madi'id, a 
 small town on the west side of the river, sixty miles b«^ 
 low the mouth of the Ohio, which contains twenty or thir- 
 ty houses, much scattered. The inhabitants are chiefly 
 French ; the houses small, though neatly furnished. We 
 lay here tlirough the night of the 20th, when a dreadful 
 accident happened. We came too about a quarter of a 
 mile below the town. Two of my men being desirous 
 to go on shore, I consented. They took the canoe and 
 started at dusk. The length of tlieir stay made me un- 
 easy. I knew not their dispositions, and being alone, 
 ivas full of apprehension. I had reason to suspect they 
 
28 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 were going to desert me. About three o'clock in the 
 morning, I heard the cry of Help me, Save me. I hal- 
 Jooed as loud as possible, still ^vas kept up this lamenta- 
 ble cry. I sprang from the boat to the bank, and direct- 
 ed my course the way from ^vhence I judged the sound 
 to come. In leaping a ditch I fell and sprained my \vrist. 
 I made all speed possible for a quarter of a mile along the 
 shore, where I heard a voice that said, Come quick or I 
 shall drown too. This greatly alarmed me. I ran up a 
 little farther and found a canoe, and unthinkingly jump- 
 ed in and shoved off, without a paddle, and was soon in 
 the middle of the stream. However, making a virtue of 
 necessity, I drew oft' one of my botats for a paddle, and 
 made the best of my way towards the poor sufferer, who 
 I found was one of my men, lying across the canoe in 
 which they came to the shore, which was bottom side up. 
 
 On my paddling towards him, he asked me if I had 
 got Sims with me, and on my answering him in the 
 negative, he said the canoe had upset, and Sims, being 
 drunk, had fallen out. I was greatly shocked at this in- 
 formation ; but having no time to lose, as I was by this 
 time t\^'o miles below my boat, he with some difficulty 
 got in with me, and we made the best of our way to the 
 shore. 
 
 On arriving we found several long pieces of bark, with 
 which Ave made paddles, and in about two hours made to 
 our boat, stopping at intervals, to hear, if possible, Srnis 
 hallooing for us, but nothing broke the awful silence, except 
 the screeching of owls. It was one of those nights which, 
 to persons in our situation, is mournful and sickening ; 
 the moon would transiently appear from behind dark 
 clouds, Avhich almost veiled the heavens. 
 
 The drift-wood kept us in constant hopes, for wt 
 
KER'S TRAVELS- 29 
 
 faintly imagined that every stump or log was the unfor- 
 tunate man ; but alas ! he was gone. Giving up all 
 hopes of finding him, we returned to our boat with heavy 
 hearts. I now began to question Adams, for that was 
 the man's name who had accompanied him on shore. 
 His tale was as follows. 
 
 *' We started in order to go up to the barge. We 
 passed four miles up, and finding it tedious rowing 
 against the current, \vhen we got opposite the town I 
 thought it best not to go further. He insisted on gohig, 
 saying that he wished to see them once more, being 
 some of his acquaintance, for he expected to be in h-11 be- 
 fore 1ff]K)rning. I consented to go, and we again started and 
 met his firiends coming down, having plenty of whiskey. 
 We all went on shore, and having made a small fire, 
 formed a circle, and began to pass round the mug. 
 Sims drank uncommonly free ; he drank the devil's 
 health, saying he would see him before he slept The 
 liquor being nearly out, and it growing late, it was pro- 
 posed by the company, before they broke up, to try who 
 could tell the greatest lie. Sims' turn came last, who 
 proposed telling the truth. Did you observe me, says he, 
 dosing a little while ago ? To which they answered, yes. 
 1 dreamed, says he, that our boat had sprung a leak, and 
 was on the point of sinking, and as we were going to the 
 assistance of the Captain, I fell into the Missisippi, and 
 was drowned : I have been uneasy ever since, and, 
 Adams, we will go down and see what is the matter, for 
 I feel much depressed, although I am in liquor. When 
 the company broke up, we started for our canoe, and the 
 rest for the town, which was a mile below. I found 
 Sims so much in liquor that it was with much difficulty 
 \ got him in, making him lie flat in the boat. When 
 
so KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 we got, as I judged, ^vhhill a mile of you, Sims started 
 up suddenly, saj ing he had dreamed again, and on rising 
 up in the boat, he staggered over, and in his fall catched 
 the side of the boat, and turned it over. I got hold 
 of tlie boat, and called several times, but received no 
 answer. Sims ^vQnt do^m, and on rising caught hold of 
 my gi'eat coat, ^^ainly ti-jing to get upon the boat ; he 
 several times pulled me under Avater. At length I ex- 
 tricated myself from him, he immediately went down, 
 and rose no more. I heard you hail me, and you soon 
 came to my relief, or I should liave inevitably perished, 
 as I cannot swim." 
 
 Daylight soon appeared, and at sunrise we cleared 
 out. In endeavouring to run the outside of a sa^vyer, I 
 ran M'ith ni}- stern atliAvart it, and unshipped my steering- 
 oar,* which I lost, but sustained no other material inju- 
 ry. We soon found ourselves at a loss without a guide, 
 and came on shore at a bend about four miles below the 
 place where we set out. On coming , near the shore, 
 judge ^vhat must have been our surprise on finding the 
 body of Sims lodged against some drift. It w^s our in- 
 tention to have made land above him ; but the current, 
 which al^^'ay»nms impetuously round the bends of the 
 .river, prevented, and we landed 500 yai'ds belo\\-. Our 
 first care \vas to secure the boat in a proper manner : \vc 
 then took the small boat which I took from the shore at 
 the cr}^ of distress the preceding night, and made for the 
 body of Sims. With some difficulty we got round the 
 point of a small wooden island that projected some dis- 
 tance from the shore. We found the unfortunate man 
 lying on his back — a mournful spectacle. After fixing 
 
 • A long heavy oar projecting twenty feet from the stern, for throwing th* 
 bgat quickly round. 
 
 ■* 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 31 
 
 a rope round his body, we towed him to the shore. A 
 short inquest was held among ourselves, which was con- 
 sidered necessary : his death was supposed to be acci- 
 dental. I now set one of my men at work in digging a 
 grave, which he executed with a paddle in the course of 
 an hour, while Adams and myself made a coffin, or box, 
 of some loose plank we had in the boat. At 12 o'clock 
 on the 21st of October, we buried the body of Isciac 
 Sims, about five miles from New-Madrid, on the west 
 shore of the Missisippi. Sims was one of my best 
 hands, being an experienced boatman. He had a family, 
 who lived three or four miles from Portsmouth, on the 
 French Broad river. 
 
 Having interred the body, the next thing was to look 
 for a proper stick for a steering-oar. I took Adams with 
 me, and after making our way through a thick cane 
 brake, we entered a beautiful wood of large timber, lifting 
 their heads to an immense height, and seeming to envy 
 each other's glory. The sycamore tree is the monarch 
 of the forest ; its size is incredible to all but those who 
 have seen it. In this place I measured one which was 
 thirty-five feet in circumference, making it about eleven 
 feet six inches in diameter. We looked some time be- 
 fore we could discover a stick to suit us, and at fength 
 found an elm. After preparing it in a proper manner, I 
 proposed to go a little further into these wilds. We pro- 
 ceeded about half a mile, and came to the brink of a 
 small lake or pond, which we found full of ducks, geese, 
 and cranes. With my rifle, in about half an hour, I 
 killed a fine goose and four ducks. We then returned to 
 our boat, with our steering-oar and game : on our arrival, 
 Calford (the other hand I had hired, whose name has not 
 i )cfore been mentioned) had caught a large cat-fish, ^vhicli 
 
52 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 weighed about forty pounds. We were now plentifully 
 provided a\ ith fresh provisions, of which we stood in 
 need. After shipping our oar, we again shoved oif. As 
 the river was fiilling, we thought it best to improve our 
 time ; and having lost our best man, it was judged re- 
 quisite to use every precaution during the remainder of 
 our ^^oyage. The sun not being more than an hour high, 
 only gave us time to float fiir enough down to get a good 
 harbour, which was in an eddy,. below a projecting point. 
 
 The sudden absence of the sun alarmed me ; I turned 
 round, and just had a glimpse of its fiery edge, sinking 
 below an awfully formed cloud, which arose ^vith such 
 astonishing swiftness that in ten minutes the whole hemis- 
 phere was in its blackest robe. 
 
 We secured our boat in such a manner that she could 
 not drive on shore, and fixed both her bow and stern 
 fast. We were no sooner safely moored than the tem- 
 pest came on, sweeping every thing in its way. Its 
 current was generally about a quarter of a mile wide, run- 
 ning an easterly course, and bearing down all opposition. 
 Providentially, we lay on the opposite side from whence 
 it came, or we should have suffered materially ; for the 
 next morning we could discover the opposite shore to be 
 full of trees of enormous size, laying prostrate in the 
 river, and opening a prospect for miles on both sides, 
 exhibiting to view the resistless power and might of the 
 Author of nature. The rain was heavy but not steady, 
 stopping suddenly, and beginning with thick, heavy 
 drops, roaring in the air, and seeming to be forced by the 
 ^vinds to an untimely birth. This tornado did not last 
 more than twenty minutes, and was succeeded by a most 
 beautiful and serene sky, and twilight appeared in its 
 liveliest colours. Storms of this kind are very frequent 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 33 
 
 on the Missisippi, especially in the summer season, and 
 often cause a considerable SAvell. 
 
 Next morning I pursued my journey, but not without 
 being well convinced of the gi'eat danger we had escaped, 
 and what was in all probability but the beginning of 
 perils. We now had fine weather, and enjoved the 
 beauty of a fine landscape, and the music of birds, as we 
 passed swiftly along. 
 
 No river in the world is perhaps richer in its prospects 
 than the celebrated Missisippi. It is bounded on all sides 
 with good land, and stately timber. Nature seems to 
 have spared no pains in laying the foundation of our 
 country ; pointing the various streams to their respective 
 discharge ; making them adequate in size -to bear do^vii 
 the productions of their shores for exportation, and 
 stretching their courses through variegated climes of the 
 fattest soil* 
 
 The shores of the Missisippi are supposed to be more 
 healthy than those of the Ohio, as the fogs are neither so 
 frequent nor heavy. Immediately on the Missisippi the 
 ground is low, and in many places is overflowed in the 
 months of May and June ; but proceeding a little back, 
 the land becomes elevated, excepting when you get near 
 New-Orleans ; there, as you proceed back, it becomes 
 swampy. The upper and middle parts of the river 
 abound with a variety of trees, among which are the syca- 
 more, white and black ash, buck-eye, maple, myrtle, 
 hickory, white and black oak, elm, gum, black walnut, 
 chesnut, and dogwood, which grow to an immense size, 
 in comparison with those in the northern states. On the 
 lower parts of the river, or above Natchcs, the c}^press 
 begins, and grows in plenty, extending quite to the GuH* 
 Tlalts of immense size are taken to New- Orleans, for 
 
 5 
 
34 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 ship and wharf building, kc. The cypress grows very 
 large, and on a foundation uncommon for other trees. 
 For about three or four feet above the ground the body 
 spreads amazingly, forming what are termed knees, 
 which brace out on all sides, forming half sunk columns, 
 and then drawing in suddenly, the tree forms a regular 
 sized tower. Some of them are one hundred feet without 
 a limb. 
 
 Nothing worthy of note occurred during this day. At 
 night we came too on a small island, a little before sun- 
 set. I was much pleased with our delightful situation, 
 and what made me more so, was the barking of our little 
 dog the instant he entered the woods^ I took my gun 
 and ascended the bank, and the first thing that met my 
 eyes was a panther, which lay in the crotch of a large 
 tree, sixty or seventy feet from- the ground. I stepped 
 back a few yards behind a bunch of cane, where. 1 fired 
 and wounded him in the neck : at that instant he leaped 
 to the ground, and on recovering himself made off to a 
 little swamp, where he cried lamentably. We now all 
 assembled, and routed him out, when I got a shot and 
 killed him. This ferocious animal measured eight feet 
 ten inches from his nose to the end of hi& tail. After 
 killing some small game, we returned to tlie boat. 
 
 October 22d. Started early in the morning. At ten 
 o'clock we met a barge ascending the river, of about 120 
 tons burthen. Their progress was slow and tedious* 
 The winds being very unsteady, and the river very crook-* 
 ed, sails are but seldom set. 
 
 It. may be interesting to many readers to have an idea 
 of the manner of ascending against so perpetual a current 
 as that of the Missisippi. Men are obliged to work against 
 nature, and endure all the hardships the elements can in- 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 3S 
 
 flict ; and continual exertions are necessary to make the 
 smallest progress ; these labours and exposures are 
 enough to impair the soundest constitution, and far ex~ 
 ceed the perils of tKe sea. 
 
 It generally takes three, and sometimes four months, to 
 ascend the river from New-Orleans to the falls of the 
 Ohio. The boats for this purpose are generally long, 
 from fifty to an hundred feet, with their bows made sharp, 
 in order to cut the stream that bears so forcibly against 
 them. They have one srnall bow and stern deck ; be- 
 tween these is a deck raised about six feet, having on ei- 
 ther side, from stem to stern, running boards, for the pur- 
 pose of using poles. They have generally but one mast 
 carrying a square sail ; though there are a few barges which 
 are schooner rigged. 
 
 A v€ssel starting from New- Orleans of. an hundred 
 tons burthen, generally employs twenty or twenty-five 
 hands, taking with them provisions enough to last them 
 to the settlements on the Ohio. The hands employed 
 ^u-e generally hired by the trip, and are all w^ell provided 
 with poles and oars. They employ commonly one or 
 two men as sailors, for the purpose of being ready in a. 
 favourable wind, as the Kentuckians are very awkward in 
 the management of sails. Being thus prepared, they 
 shove on with surprising alacrity. Their manner of row^ 
 ing is very singular ; drawing their oars as far through 
 the water as their situation, or the length of their arms 
 will permit, and throwing them back with such agilitj^* 
 that they are scarcely perceptible ; just admitting them to 
 skim the surface, then sinking them deep in the water, 
 and raising themselves, bend the stubborn ash, while the 
 sweat streams down their cheeks. The exact time they 
 Ir.eep in rowing, is pleasing to a stranger, and fron\ which 
 
36 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 they derive no little credit. Thus using every exertion^ 
 they make considerable headway, averaging ten or twelve 
 miles a day. 
 
 For upwards of an hundred miles above New- Orleans, 
 the river is banked up, to prevent the inundation of the 
 land under cultivation. This is a great object to the 
 bargemen in using their cordde, which they extend from 
 the mast-head to the shore, and the men shoulder it and 
 tow up their craft \yith cheerfulness. After getting above 
 their cordaling ground, in swift water they make use of 
 their warp ; at otlier times they use their setting-poles 
 where the sounding will admit, running across on every 
 point. 
 
 With a strong head wind, it is impossible to move up 
 diis current. There have been instances of sailing forty 
 or fifty miles ^vith one wind, notwithstanding the great 
 bends in the river. The wind generally blows up or 
 doAvn the river, when there is any stirring. 
 
 But by Fulton's invention of forcing by the power of 
 steam, vessels of any burthen can ascend. There arc 
 now several steam-boats on the Missisippi and Ohio, 
 which greatly add to the interesting commerce of the 
 western and southern states. There is one which runs 
 from New- Orleans to the moudi of the river, for the pur- 
 pose of towing up vessels. This meets with great en- 
 couragement ; and shortens the passage of vessels, which 
 would otherwise be very tedious. It often requires as 
 much time for vessels from the northern states to reach 
 New- Orleans, as it does to reach rjiy port in Europe. 
 
 We had now pleasant weather for several days, the 
 wind from the north, blowing generally down the river. 
 
 On the 28th we had heavy winds from the southeast, 
 with great rains, such as I had never before witnessed. 
 
KER*S TRAVELS. 37 
 
 "I'hese lasted for several days, an intermission of the rain 
 only, favoured us. The winds prevented us from pro- 
 ceeding on our passage ; though several attempts were 
 made, we were immediately blown on shore again. 
 
 I here found my boat was very crazy and weak, leak- 
 ing in many places, I would caution the inexperienced 
 who may venture down so long and wild a river as the 
 Missisippi, to be aware of whom they purchase boats, to 
 look ^vell through every part, and to spare no pains^ in 
 having the opinion of judges. One will scarcely imagine 
 how much depends on this. The frequent impositions 
 and neglect of boat-builders, often endanger the property, 
 and even the lives of those on board. 
 
 A credible gentleman informed me of several instances 
 of this kind, particularly one where he was himself a 
 sufferer. He purchased a boat at Nashville, Ten. of 
 about seventy tons, and after having it insured, loaded her 
 with flour and horses for New- Orleans. The second day 
 after his entering the Missisippi, he was wrecked in the 
 following manner : While they were proceeding cheer- 
 fully on their voyage, not suspecting but they would 
 reach their destined port in safety, from the fineness of 
 the weather, and the strong sawyer- proof craft under them ; 
 but not observing a small breaker ahead of them, ran on 
 it, and found themselves thrown round and stopped in- 
 stantly, and had just time to gQt the small boat along side, 
 and save the lives of those on board, with a few valuable 
 articles, before she filled. Having got her loose, they 
 endeavoured to get her as near shore as possible before 
 she went down ; forcing out the horses, and clearing 
 away the flour, they discovered the leak, ^^'hich they in 
 a measure stopped. They got as much of the damaged 
 flour 0^1 shore as possible, leaving the boat aground till 
 
S^ KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 the water might fall so that they could repair her. On 
 •examination they found that one third of her bottom was 
 of rotten wood, and not fit for use. They returned to 
 Nashville, where he immediately commenced a suit 
 against the builder. After the defendant's swearing that 
 the craft was sound, the above-mentioned gentleman pro- 
 duced a piece of the rotten plank, broke by the sawyer on 
 which they struck, which could be crumbled to pieces 
 by the hand : by tliis he w^as compensated, after the exam- 
 ination of the insurance company. 
 
 At present all boats are insi:>ected previous to their be- 
 ing launched - 
 
 Nov. 2. The winds abated, and we proceeded this 
 morning. We were in good water, but in the afterpart 
 of the day w^e found the river to be uncomonly crooked. 
 After constant exertions, we made but twelve miles that 
 day. We were carried by the current, in every bend, 
 with a force that would leave us in tlie eddy, or counter- 
 current. These eddies we found more common as we 
 descended the river ; in one of them we were labouring 
 for near three hours, before we were relieved ; we found 
 it impracticable to clear it by rowing, for it ran up with 
 as much force as the current did down before our entering 
 it, w^hich ^vas at the lower end. On endeavouring to 
 gain the descending current, I would row^ as much head- 
 way as possible ; but on the bow's striking the counter^ 
 acting current, the boat was instantly whirled round. 
 Finding this all in vain, I got out my warp, which I ex- 
 tended from the boat to a neighbouring sawyer ; by tliis 
 means we prevented much labour in that part of the 
 river, from the contrariety of currents. 
 
 After this we were carried into several small eddies ; 
 by some we would be carried constantly round like a top, 
 
EER'S TRAVELS. 39 
 
 both sides having equal power, neither would gi\e us the 
 least advantage. After getting a little acquainted with 
 their nature, I would uniformly row as near to every 
 point as possible, and although the current was not as. 
 strong, yet it prevents being drawn into the bend. This 
 practice is generally kept up by the most experienced 
 Avatermen, excepting those who are too negligent to 
 exert themselves, and who thence conclude the Mis- 
 sisippi to be a laborious and unprofitable voyage. 
 
 These coimter- currents are of great importance to 
 bargemen in ascending the river. Some of them are 
 three miles in length ; but on arriving at their head the 
 descending current runs with amazing force. In going 
 round some of these points, the greatest care is required in 
 steering, to keep the boat's bows to the current. I have 
 often seen boats whirl round by the keel's getting the 
 smallest hold of the current, in spite of all the oars. At 
 other times, when a skilful helmsman has the charge, after 
 gaining as much headway as possible in the eddy, striking 
 the opposing stream, their headway begins to deaden : 
 they double their strokes ; but all in vain ; an equilibri- 
 um ensues for a mornent ; till at length, the heavy and 
 steady pressure of nature prevails, and the boat falls back ; 
 the spirits of the rowers flag, and they are carried impetu- 
 ously down till they make the shore again. 
 
 Nov. 3. I this day passed a beautiful tract of wilder- 
 ness, affording a plentiful subsistence to the animal crea- 
 tion, and inviting, by enchanting prospects and luxuri- 
 ant growths, the free sons of Columbia to inhabit and 
 share with them the bountiful gifts of nature. I imagin- 
 ed myself holding a discourse with these stately timbers^ 
 and would answer that it only wanted time to make this 
 a country of \\ ealth and happiness : that though at pre 
 
40 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 sent the attractions of the settled parts were more en- 
 ticing, your hills and vallies, believe me, will one day- 
 be the resort of men of genius and enterprise, who will 
 add to your future glory. 
 
 On the 4th we killed some venison and other game. 
 On the 10th we Were visited by a few of the Osark tribe 
 of Indians, who came to us in canoes, bringing with them 
 a few turkies, percimmons, and deer-skins. I purchased 
 some of those articles, and gave them in exchange, pow- 
 der and lead, and some corn-meal. They say that their 
 tribe is small, and that they remain neutral between the 
 United States and other powers. They are of large 
 stature, and their limbs well proportioned. They appear 
 to be slovenly and filthy, and for Indians they are of an 
 uncommonly dark complexion. They are called by the 
 name of a river they inhabit, on the west side of the Mis- 
 sisippi. 
 
 On the 20th, 21st, and 22d, we passed several Indian 
 camps, and would often be favoured with a visit. There 
 are a part of the Chickasaw and Choctaw tribes who fre- 
 quent this river for the purpose of fishing, plundering, &c. 
 Those Indians belonging to, or living within the United 
 States, I shall hereafter give a particular. description of. 
 
 On the 28th we arrived nt the Walnut hills, a beauti- 
 ful and delightful tract of country, riiese hills are in- 
 habited, and under good cultivation, affording a delight- 
 ful prospect from the river. Whilst I was gazing at the 
 beauty of the scene, and viewing Phoebus just stretching 
 liis course from the broken horizon, and the shepherd 
 loosing his fold, hearing the sound of the huntsman's 
 horn, and the jogging echo of the oars, and lost in con- 
 templation, we were carried into an eddy which soon waft- 
 ed us to the shore. At this I was not chagrined, but 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 41 
 
 made my boat fast, in order to view the beauties of nature 
 on shore. 
 
 After walking about half a mile, over a green-tufted 
 soil of beautiful vales and hills, I arrived at a large 
 and commodious house, where I got a fresh repast, and 
 information of the country. The house belonged to a 
 French gentleman, lately removed from France ; he was 
 a man of taste, who had been through the western and 
 southern states, and had found no place so congenial to 
 his mind as that which he now occupied. I believe he 
 has much intriguing confederacy with the anglos. Cot- 
 ton here produces well ; also corn, tobacco, hemp, 
 fruits, &c. &c. After spending a few hours I returned to 
 my boat ; with some difficulty we cleared the eddy, and 
 hauled out into the current. 
 
 On the 2d of December we arrived at Natches, a very 
 conspicuous town on the east bank, containing at present 
 between three and four hundred houses, well built, and 
 many of them of brick. It stands on an eminence of 
 about 200 feet from the level of the river. A small part 
 of the town is under the hill, immediately on the river ; 
 it is well known to be the resort of dissipation. Here is 
 the bold-faced strumpet, full of blasphemies, who loolcs 
 upon the virtuous part of her sex with contempt and 
 hatred ; every house is a grocer}^ containing gambling, 
 music and dancing, fornicators, &c. This is the stop- 
 ping place for all boatmen from Kentucky, Tennessee, 
 &c. ; yes, 1 have in that place seen 150 boats, loaded 
 with produce, bound to New- Orleans, delaying their 
 time, and spending days in the lowest orders of dissipa 
 tion. Those who live on the hill are possessed of mc«'e 
 pride and decorum. There are many good stores in 
 tliis place, who find considerable business ; also nle- 
 
 6 
 
42 KER'S TRAVELS. ^^ ' 
 
 chanics of every description. The town is generally 
 made up of emigrants from the eastern states. The iis- 
 cent from the river is made easy by means of a dug- way, 
 half a mile in length, up which is carried all the water 
 made use of ui the town for washing ; many use it for 
 drinking, in preference to the well-water, w^hich is ex- 
 tremely hard and unpleasant, especially to strangers. 
 
 Although this place is surrounded by an excellent and 
 Well-cultivated country, yet it wholly depends on pro- 
 duce from up the river, which can be had much cheaper, 
 and for this reason the farmers do not raise corn, w^heat, 
 &c. The common product is cotton and tobacco ; the 
 latter is just beginning to be cultivated. 
 
 There is a market in this place, Avhich is celebrated for 
 fish, particularly the cat-fish, which they take out of the 
 Missisippi in abundance, and of incredible size, weighing 
 from IQ to 200 pounds. Their beef is poor, as also flesh 
 of other kinds* 
 
 Six miles back from this is Washington, a small town 
 with a court-house and goal, and is the seat of govern- 
 ment for the Missisippi territory, it will probably be re- 
 tnoved to Natches. Washington is in a state of decline, 
 owing to its distance from the river. St. Stephens 
 ^vill probably be the seal of government in a short tmie, 
 which place and country I shall treat upon Ik reafter. 
 
 Dec. 5. I again started in the afternoon. This night 
 I floated down -with the current. The river from 
 Natches to New-Orleans, is delightfully smooth, and un- 
 broken by sawyers ; but finding by this 1 should lose 
 sight of a beautiful country, and ^vishing to satisfy my 
 mind with every particular, I determined to lie by the en- 
 suing nights. The night of the 5th was uncommonly 
 pleasant, aided by the smooth waters ; the silence broken 
 
TRAVELS. 43 
 
 ■^^^S^^tel 
 
 only by the solemn cry of owls, a;id the piercing howl 
 of beasts of prey. 
 
 Dec, 6. I he- country begins to get low, and swampy, 
 abounding with cypress trees, which hang full of moss, 
 called Spanish moss. This moss, or tree-grass, is com- 
 mon in the southern states, particularly on the Missisippi ; 
 it hangs on the body, and every projecting limb, four or 
 five feet, loosely entwined, and cloaks the wilderness v/ith 
 still greater gloom, hanging in weeping forms of mournful 
 gray. On this moss the Spanish horses subsist the year 
 round. The inhabitants use it for matrasses, &:c. ; there 
 is also much of it exported for the purpose of stuffing 
 saddles, chairs, Sec. after it is cured in a proper manner. 
 It is found only on low ground, and near water- courses. 
 It has a taste not unpleasant, and is full of juice. I^arge 
 quantities of it are taken to the northern states. 
 
 Dec. 8. We arrived at Baaton Rouge, a smalltown on 
 the east side of the river, containing about one hundred 
 hoirses. The inhabitants are principally French. There 
 iire here a considerable number of stores, chiefly groceries. 
 The town stands on an elevated spot, or sandy bluff*. The 
 productions of the countr}^ around are cotton, indigo, &c. 
 We shoved off* after staying here one hour. We now 
 began to come to the plantations. How beautiful these 
 appeared, after pursuing our way through a rugged wil- 
 derness, I can describe to none but those who liave ex.- 
 perienced it. With their help I can stammer over the 
 outlines of the pleasure it created within me. Slirink- 
 ing from the blast of winter, I was gradually arriving 
 in a warm latitude, and passing plantations of excessive 
 luxuriance. 
 
 On the 9th and 10th we were floating all points of the 
 compass, having entered the extensive bends called 
 
44 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 Rockasee and Tunikee ; the latter is supposed to be 
 fifty miles around and but five across. With a capital of 
 fifty or sixty thousand dollars, there might be many te- 
 dious miles saved in the navigation of this river. By 
 cutting small courses across these necks, there would be 
 no difficulty in uniting or straightening this mighty stream 
 in many places ; some of which are not more than half a 
 mile, and are made up of loose earth. In many places it 
 would save ten, in others twenty, and in one or two in- 
 stances fifty miles. All these added, would be in course 
 of time an object, particularly in ascending the river. It 
 has been contemplated by some characters of enterprise, 
 but fell through for want of funds. But as the country 
 grows older, and its advantages are discovered, improve- 
 ments will assist the workmanship of nature in instances 
 of the above-mentioned kind. This country has far ex- 
 ceeded the most mature nations of Europe, in improve- 
 ments and inventions which have surpassed in their prac- 
 tical results all the theories of the old world. 
 
 The rich sugar and cotton plantations now began to 
 wear a most elegant aspect, with commodious buildings, 
 and out-houses for the numerous servants, who appeai'ed 
 in droves, going to and fro upon the plantations. The 
 manner in which these poor Africans are treated by their 
 overseers, is frequently cruel in the extreme ; but I shall 
 here forbear making any remarks on this subject. This 
 southwestern extremity of the United States has been 
 nursed by European powers, and seems not to have been 
 brought to perfection, nor a state of subordination and 
 rectitude, until it fell into the hands of the mild and judi- 
 cious goven:iment of the United States, whose power and 
 spirit have shown it the defender of all just rights and 
 claims within their happy union. ^ I speak as a free citi- 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 45 
 
 zen, having for several years shared good and evil, luxu- 
 ry and want. 
 
 The weather was now warm and pleasant, and it being 
 the coldest month in the year, the sun's beams were very 
 grateful. 
 
 The Missisippi, differing from other rivers, seems to 
 be elevated above the general level of the land, which is 
 truly the case, especially as you proceed near its mouth ; 
 the land on each side sinks, commencing at its margin and 
 ending in a swamp or lake. While other rivers are de- 
 pressed or compressed within the limits of huge clusters 
 of mountains, and exhibit shores lined with rocks, this is 
 adorned with tlie smile of luxury. 
 
 Nature seems to have been aware of the free race of 
 people that should inhabit this continent of Columbus, 
 (not of Americus,) and although there were suited to ev- 
 ry class or race of people, zones, torrid, temperate, and 
 frigid ; yet she thought her temperate zone not adequate 
 to contain the happy beings that might arise either from 
 an impulse of emigration, or from the natural source of 
 increase : she therefore set her convulsive powers in ope- 
 ration, and assuaged the surging billows from the face of 
 what is now the fattest soil on the terraqueous globe. Ex- 
 posing it in time to the action of the beams of the sun, it 
 became the finest and most productive region of the 
 world ; while the rivers only remain as traces of that 
 ocean which once inundated this portion of the globe. 
 
 The plantations on this coast do not many of them ex- 
 tend more than a mile and a half from the coast, till they 
 are stopped reluctantly in their progress by inaccessible 
 swamps and morasses, and stagnated waters, which render 
 it in the summer and fall seasons somewhat unhealthy. 
 
46 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Arrival at New-Orleans — Difficulty of landing — Descrip- 
 tion of New- Orleans — Badness of the water — Romantic 
 appearance of the Church — Rapidimprovement of New- 
 Orleans — Causes why it is sickly — JSxcellcfJce of the 
 market — Intentions of the author to ship for Jamaica. 
 
 On the 13th Dec. 1808, I arrived at New-Orleans, after 
 encountering many difficulties, on a strange river, and 
 frequent insults from my men. In landing here I found 
 more difficulty than in any part of my journey, as the 
 city lies on a bend of the river which forms an eddy. I 
 here made several attempts to land, but on striking the 
 eddy it would take me near a mile up the river, before I 
 could again make the current. I at length, by a fortu- 
 nate turn of the eddy, drove in with exulting pleasure, 
 and leaped on shore : I secured my boat, and for a mo- 
 ment was fixed to the spot, meditating on the fatigues I 
 had encountered. I here sold my little cargo to unex- 
 pected advantage, and after discharging my men, felt as 
 It were, released from a world of care and anxiety. I» 
 took lodgings with a Dr. De Fludcar, a French gentle- 
 man of great merit, as I afterwards found him to be. 
 
 I shall here give a short description of New- Orleans, as 
 in its present state. It lies in lat. 29° 49' north, and 90° 
 5' west Ion. on the east side of the Missisippi, and 100 
 miles from its mouth. The streets are regularly laid out, 
 and cross each other at right-angles ; they are very low 
 and narrow. The buildings afford no cellars, but the 
 lower floor being raised at a sufficient height, leaves a 
 
KEKS TRAVELS. 47 
 
 kind of cellar on the surface of the ground ; all places 
 below the surface would be filled with water constantly. 
 For the purpose of receiving fresh air, the houses are 
 built as high as the tornadoes common to that country- 
 will permit. They are generally built on a French 
 construction, affording elevated terraces and walks, which 
 open to the gentle breeze in the heat of summer. 
 
 The level of this city is several feet below the surface 
 of the river in its periodical floods, and is saved from in- 
 undation only by a-bank levey on its margin; hence all 
 the water collected in the city runs off from the river, and 
 oozes at length in a swamp and lake, in the rear of the 
 town. The waters and slops, after being used, are thrown 
 into the gutters, or leaders, which are made of he^vn 
 timber, one for the bottom, and one on each side ; here 
 it slowly moves off", creating a very nauseous smell during 
 the dry seasons, and is relieved only by the rains, which 
 cleanse them from the odious filth they had collected. 
 
 All the water made use of in the city, is carried from 
 the river in casks, there not being a well in the place, of 
 which any use is made. A person would naturally sup- 
 pose aqueducts would be stretched through the streets ; 
 but this requires yankeeism, which disbands all claims of 
 European despotism. 
 
 The water of this celebrated river is the best of itself 
 of any in the United States, being cool through the sul- 
 try months of summer, andean, without being attended 
 with the least harm, be drank in the freest perspiration. 
 But filth and negligence will cause the purest waters to 
 become foul : thus it is at Neiv-Orleans, tliere being an 
 eddy, or counter-current, in which all the shipping is 
 moored, and in which every thing loathsome is thrown, 
 
48 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 and there constantly kept in circulation, must conse- 
 quently imbibe a quantity of putrefaction. 
 
 Out of the above-mentioned eddy, all the water made 
 use of is taken ; but when they find that the scourging 
 hand of disease is beginning its career, and dismal mala- 
 dies are making rapid progress from house to house, like 
 New- York, they will cleanse their city, and sweep off the 
 brooding pestilence, drinking pure water in preference to 
 foul. 
 
 This city contains an elegant church for the Roman 
 Catholics, and a monastery for the exercise of the nuns. 
 There are no other public buildings for worship. In 
 front of the church is an elegant square, of level, green 
 turf, from which the church has a very romantic appear- 
 ance. There are many other public buildings, as well as 
 private, which exhibit a pattern of the beauty and ele- 
 gance of French taste, and which the architect views with 
 astonishment. 
 
 New- Orleans, of late years, has been thriving astonish- 
 ingly. Emigi'ants from all parts of the United States, 
 are constantly roving the western and southern country, 
 and naturally descend to New- Orleans ; and although 
 those from the northern states are not subject to the cli- 
 mate, yet under the impression of profiting, they many 
 of them continue till they get attacked, and never return. 
 Others, of loose habits, and inclined to dissipation, meet 
 with great encouragement till they are deprived of the 
 means of subsistence, and then are left to the mercy of 
 the scorching sun ; this, with the use of ardent liquors to 
 drown their sorrows, soon sweeps thenj off the stage of 
 action. From instances of this kind, the country re- 
 ceives the name of sure death, as being the most un- 
 healthy ; but if temperance, the source of health, is 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 49 
 
 there made use of, the .system is under no gi^eatcr afflic- 
 tion than it would be elsewhere, as New- Orleans can 
 produce instances of longevity surpassing most other parts 
 of the United States. 
 
 The nightly air in this vicinity is very injurious, 
 and often proves fatal, in the hottest seasons of the 
 year, although it would be reasonable to suppose the 
 sun would so warm the atmosphere and the animal cre- 
 ation, that his absence would have no eflect in so short 
 a time : but when his last rays disappear, nature seems 
 to change her element ; a cold damp arises, and a 
 thick vapour every where prevails. This is succeeded 
 by chilling dews, which lay in heavy drops, as if act- 
 ing in opposition to the sun's influence. But these 
 vapours are soon scattered when the earth is again, 
 exposed to the sultry beams of that refulgent sun, whose 
 power and attraction keep in subjection all those oi^bs 
 within his care, visiting them in time with his enliven- 
 ing presence. 
 
 Upon the whole, I conclude that the ^vealth of New - 
 Orleans will, in no distant time, equal that of any other 
 American city, and that Louisiana will ultimately be the 
 garden spot of the western continent. 
 
 The exports of Louisiana are sugar, cotton, rice, to- 
 bacco, indigo, oranges, &c. The sugar is universally 
 allowed to be the best of the kind manuflictured in the ' 
 kno^vn world. 
 
 During my stay in New-Orleans I had frequent oppor- 
 tunities for learning, the situation of the countr}- west of the 
 Missisippi'-, and I here found that my early attainment of 
 the French and Spanish languages w^ould hereafter render 
 me great service, particularly in my intended route, o*! 
 which I then expected soon to set out : but I had scenes 
 
 7 
 
50 KER'S TRA.VELS. 
 
 of a different cast yet to go through, perhaps to harden 
 and temper me for new perils. 
 
 The market of New- Orleans is equal to any of its size 
 in the United States. In this market can be had the 
 products of all climes, and as cheap as at New- York. 
 The beef is not so good as in the northern and middle 
 states ; fish, both fresh and dried, and vegetables of every 
 kind, are plenty ; also nuts, mellons, and fruits. The 
 watermellon can be had at any time of the year. This 
 city is wholly dependent on the upper states, namely, 
 Ohio, Kentucky, and Tennessee, for their produce, which 
 is corn-meal, flour, beef, pork, butter, potatoes, apples, 
 cider, whiskey, Sec. &.c. They receive in return some 
 few foreign articles, but most generally and naturally pre- 
 fer cash, abstaining from imported luxuries, being con- 
 tented Avith their own homely fare, excepting coffee, of 
 which they are remarkably fond. In their dress they 
 prefer the rugged leggins and hunting-sliirt, of a ground 
 colour, trimmed with yellow. With this suit and their 
 rifle, they feel always perfectly at home. 
 
 I remained in New- Orleans until the month of April, 
 which was totally averse to my former plan. Commer- 
 cial interest enticed me to ship for Jamaica. Dr. De 
 Fludcar, the gentleman Avith Avhom I boarded, entered 
 with me upon a little adventure, Avhich it was thought 
 would prove advantageous to us both. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 51 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Arrival at Jamaica — Departure of Dr. De Fludcar — 
 Determination of the author to visit Fort an Prince — 
 Departure from Jamaica — Arrival at Port au Prince-^ 
 Project of a tour in the interior of the island — Author 
 sets out^ accompanied by a gentleman — Beauty and 
 grandeur of the scenery — Difficulty and danger of tra- 
 velling — Singular cave discovered — Description of it — 
 Return of the author — Violent illness — Recovery — 
 Takes passage for Savannah — Shipwreck^ and immi- 
 nent danger of the author^ life — Description of Cum- 
 berland harbour — Melancholy death of Captain Crase- 
 well — Return to ICingston — General description of Ja- 
 maica — Productions of the island — Description of Port 
 Royal trade — The author again returns to the United 
 States — Arrival at New-Orleans — Preparations for 
 ascejidmg the Red river. 
 
 On the 10th of May, 1809, we set sail on board the 
 Dolphin. Qn the 20th we arrived at Kingston, the capi- 
 tal of the island of Jamaica. We soon despatched our 
 sales, and De Fludcar returned to New- Orleans. Interest 
 further led me to indulge every flattering hope. I took a 
 tour into the interior of the island, which I found to con- 
 sist of huge clusters of rocks, the veins of which are filled 
 with pure water gushing forth and forming numerous 
 small rivers, which together conspire to cool the scorched 
 plains between the rugged cliffs. In this place the 
 practical romancer may have full liberty of enjoying soli- 
 tude, and ample employment for his profession. Jamaica, 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 is ill latitude 17" north, and about the longitude of the 
 
 eity of Washington . 
 
 On the 4th of June I took a passage on boaixl the Nep- 
 tune schooner for Port au Prince, at which place I ar- 
 rived on the 11th. It litis in latitude 18° north, and about 
 the meridian of Philadelphia. The island of St. Domin- 
 go lies between Cuba and Porto Rico. The face of the 
 country in most parts is beautifully adorned with hills and 
 vallies, and covered Avith handsome groves of large tim- 
 ber, and a variety of rivers running in every direction, 
 Avhich add beauty and elegance to the variegated land- 
 scape. 
 
 During my stay in this port I frequently heard from 
 my parents in London, which relieved my anxiety ; and 
 by sending letters I informed them of my circumstances. 
 I met one day, by accident, with an acquaintance, and 
 proposed to him to take a view of the interior, and if his 
 mind corresponded with that of a naturalist, we would 
 not fail of exploring any internal cavity, or subterraneous, 
 passage that ^ve might discover. He readily yielded to 
 my proposal, but informed me of his acquaintance on the 
 island, and that it was necessary to visit them, before our 
 departure. He sat out for that purpose, and I waited his 
 return with patience. On the 19th he returned, and on 
 the 20th we started, and with no other view than that of 
 prying into natural curiosities, of which I was informed 
 the island abounded. On the 25th we arrived at a ridge 
 of rocks, and broken hiljy ground, where we had many 
 extensive prospects of a w ild forest, which held us in the 
 lowest contempt, regardless of our ramble over her clus- 
 tered summits, the sides of which shone with beautiful 
 cascades, \a inding in irregulai' courses down to their bot- 
 tom, and floAving through meadov/s of richness cind 
 
KER^S TRAVELS. 53 
 
 beauty. These little streams were received by larger, 
 which after winding their courses and augmenting their 
 size, are mingled in the salt waves of the Atlantic. 
 
 We had now reached one of these rivers, and finding 
 it not fordable, and not wishing to damage our provisions, 
 we altered our course from southeast to northeast, follow- 
 ing its margin for a considerable distance. We crossed 
 many lofty precipices, on one of which we discovered 
 distinct signs of silver, very near the surface of the earth. 
 We took an observation of the place, and proceeded- 
 
 On the night of the 27th we encamped on the side of a 
 precipice, down which ran a murmuring stream. Con- 
 cealing ourselves between two shelves of the rock, we 
 felt secure from wild beasts, and only dreaded the clan- 
 destine visits of innumerable reptiles. After placing our- 
 selves in such a manner that we could not fall out of our 
 den, we were soon lulled to sleep by the neighbouring 
 cascade, which drowned all other solitary murmurs, and 
 the lamentations of this re-echoing forest, whose chorus 
 consisted of the night bird's song, the gentle breeze, and 
 sudden blast, winding through the battlements of the 
 clustered mass. In the mornir/g wc awoke much re- 
 freshed, and continued our tour to the summit, where we 
 had a most beautiful prospect of the country. On oiir 
 left we had the small but pure waters of the river, veiled 
 by a scattering fog ; on our right, at a distance, one above 
 another, we had elevated ridges, and each in turn was 
 watered by falling streams, whose reflection of the sun's 
 rays spangled the scene before us. We perceived the 
 ground we had the day previous ascended, falling in even 
 waves, smoothed by the tops of trees of mahogany, pine, 
 wild gum, &c. and at length ending in a fertile valley, 
 which spread at the feet of surrounding mountains. 
 
54 KEHS TKAVELH, 
 
 By turning round we beheld our situation truly peculiiir, 
 for before we could further proceed, we were forced to 
 ascend a narrow peak, and descend on the other side, 
 for on either side our passage was obstructed by perpen- 
 dicular cliffs, but from the peak the descent was more 
 gradual. The scene invited our stay till the sun began 
 to direct his rays on our heads, which hurried us down 
 a rough passage of loose stones, where we were often 
 stopped by the hissing of adders ; but being in high 
 boots we were not daunted. Of these we killed several ; 
 and about 3 o'clock, we found the monster among 
 snakes, having two distinct heads ; it was about twenty 
 inches in length. Its heads were perfectly alike, having 
 in the neck of each a joint by which it could move its 
 heads either way, uniting them together, and then throw- 
 ing them in a right angle, from thence each way to its 
 sides, holding the one and moving the other at pleasure. 
 At the sight of this monster we were much perplexed, as we 
 could not solve in our minds, nor bring any thing of a 
 species born natural, to be in any shape compared with 
 it. On irritating it, both tongues were launched, its 
 body swelled, both lieads flattened, and four eyes spark- 
 led with rage ; each tongue in vibrating would drop 
 \enom ; its body, formed in an awkward coil, would 
 change its colour to a reddish brown, with innumerable- 
 spots of a bright yellow, full of feverish venom. Its mo- 
 tion ^vas slo\v and reluctant, stopping at our approach, 
 and moving off" at our remaining still. On putting a 
 stick near its heads, both upper jaws would be thro^vn up, 
 the skin on each side would be contracted, ^vhich uncov- 
 ered its fatal fang. Getting a forked stick, we confined 
 him to the ground, and then contrived to bleed him to 
 death, in order to preserve nature's work, and recom 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. B5 
 
 pense our labour ; tliis we did without much bruising 
 him. We then took ofFhis skin as cai'efully as possible, 
 which on my return to the port I boxed up, and sent a 
 present to the museum in London. It excited wonder in 
 iill who saw it. 
 
 The water we carried with us had now given out ; 
 accordingly we bent our course tow^ards the river, and 
 after cutting ourselves by falling and stumbling over 
 broken cliffs, we came in sight of it about sunset. The 
 bank was very steep, and it ^vas with difficulty that we 
 procured any w^ater. After satisfying our thirst, we took 
 a little of our provision, which were getting very stale as 
 w^ell as scarce. 
 
 The beauties of die evening were ushered in with the 
 piercing cry of birds of prey, and the plunging crash of 
 amphibious reptiles, which only allowed us a short time 
 for conversation in the intervals of their noise. We were 
 not pleased with our situation in this, it being neai' the 
 margin of a river, and on looking round we could not dis- 
 cover a proper situation without going a few hundred 
 yards down the shore, where we saw some project- 
 ing rocks covered with white moss. We found the 
 spot truly romantic. By a gradual ascent on the west 
 side, we were enabled to get near the summit, where 
 we found each step sounded with a dreadful din. This 
 .aw^akened our curiosity ^ for by every appearance we 
 judged it to be subterraneous, and faintly hoped our con 
 jectures might not be erroneous. At this instant the. 
 moon broke forth in reflecting light through the tliick 
 forest in our front^ on the opposite side of the river. Wc 
 now approached the brink of this rock, and seating our- 
 selves on. its edge, waited for a full prospect of the rising 
 moon, which in a few minutes reared its disk abo^•e. the 
 
56 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 green horizon of the innumerable malioganys, \vhich 
 abound on this island. 
 
 In viewing the wild scene around us we were filled 
 with silent ten'or. In a kind of revery my companion 
 carelessly shoved off a loose fi*agment of rock, which 
 tumbled down and terminated in or near some concave 
 part of the rock below^ while the reverberation between 
 rolled in every direction. It was now determined to ex- 
 plore any part that might be accessible ; the moonlight 
 assisted our external search, and after half an hour's la- 
 bour in seeking for an entrance, we were about to give 
 over any further pursuit. I sat down in a small fissure, 
 leaving my companion still impressed with an idea that 
 the entrance \Ya.s in. some part practicable. While I was 
 dius sitting in a reclined posture, reposing myself from 
 the fatigue I had endured tlie day past, I was disturbed 
 by loud, hollow, and indistinct accents, accompanied 
 with the indirect echo of Ker, Ker : I instantly stepped 
 from my seat to a little elevation, and calling my compan- 
 ion by name, (Watson,) was answered in re-echoing 
 shouts of joy. I hastened to the spot, ^^•here I found 
 Watson standing in the gloomy front of a spacious grotto, 
 situated in the east northeasterly corner of this cluster, 
 and within a few yards of the rn er. Every step, every 
 touch, and every word, bore testimony, by their dying 
 sound, embosomed in the ^vinding cavities, that we were 
 on the borders of a subterraneous adventure. Watson 
 informed me that he had been a fe^v yards into its mouth, 
 that it was a little descending, and the circulation of air 
 was heard in every direction. I proposed to him to defer 
 the attempt of entering till morning : he insisted on im- 
 mediately making preparations. Accordingly, vy^e gatli- 
 ered some pitch-pine, and fastening scAcral- pieces t^geth- 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 57 
 
 er, made two torches ; then procuring fire, we lit one of 
 them, and having our small arms and all things in readi- 
 ness, we entered. Watson took the lead. The chill air 
 oozing from the damp cells, created within me a silent 
 horror. Having proceeded about fifteen yards, we came 
 to a rugged descent, and after a few steps over a ridge 
 of loose earth and stones, we found ourselves buried in a 
 spacious cavern of about ten feet in height, and nothing 
 but thick darkness on all sides. Our torches burnt witli 
 lustre, and reflected with transparent beauty on the falling 
 drops> which proceeded from every part, forming innu- 
 merable little rivulets, which murmured in their courses, 
 and hastening to be absorbed in oblivion, or sink to lower 
 beds, there to remain in various forms of petrifaction. 
 We proceeded in this way for some time without meet- 
 ing with any obstruction, when at length our progress 
 was stopped by a perpendicular wall. The petrifaction 
 here shone in many lively colours, and at a distance ap- 
 peared to possess animal life. Here natural forms of a 
 body and shape resembling human were to be seen ; the 
 imitation of animals and fowls, and one in' particular of a 
 serpent in a spiral coil, with its head raised, on which 
 thick drops would slowly fall, and there consolidate and 
 increase in size. The texture of these are seemingly as 
 hard as that of a rock. Those which from Ions: standine, 
 and the course of the fountains being changed, remain, 
 waiting the slow and sure hand of time to temper and fit 
 them for duration. Some we found to be of an elastic 
 substance, with the cause of which I ^vas at that time 
 unacquainted. 
 
 After pardy satisfying our curiosity, we proceeded 
 along this glittering wall to the left, and in going about 
 ten yards discovered a circular corner ; near this we per- 
 
58 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 ceived a low, nan'ow, arched passage. We now stopped 
 to consult each other with respect to the termination 
 of this remarkable cave. I still proposed to return to 
 the mouth, if possible, as we were much fatigued with 
 the excursion of the day ; to which he with reluc- 
 tance consented. His torch being nearly consumed, I 
 lit mine, which cheered the too visible gloom that sur- 
 rounded us. 
 
 The length of time we had been in the cavern, and the 
 continual droppings of water, "together with the damp air, 
 rendered us very uncomfortable, and we forcibly feit our 
 need of repose. We turned about and pursued the same 
 course we came, and on arriving at the mouth congratu- 
 lated each other on our safe return. The moon shone 
 with unusual brilliancy, and the air seemed to be filled 
 with perfume. Such was the contrast of our momentary 
 situations. We erected a small fire and dried our 
 dampened clothes, took a little brandy we had yet re- 
 tained ; then looked a convenient place, secure as possi- 
 ble, and lay down with the promise of further exploring 
 the grotto when daylight appeai'ed. Fatigue and satis- 
 faction soon lulled us to sleep, insensible of surrounding 
 dangers. 
 
 We arose in the morning refi^eshed ; the sun was not 
 yet risen. The numerous alligators bellowed out their 
 thanks for the return of day, and were slowly floatiiig and 
 swimming in every direction, in quest of food. Geese, 
 cranes, and pelicans were flying in abundance. We 
 made a fine breakfast on a large crane we happened to kill 
 as he was flying close over our heads. The sun had 
 risen, and we again made preparations to explore further 
 our remarkable grotto ; and after procuring a sufficiency 
 of torch- wood, and taking our brandy witii us^ we entered 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 59 
 
 again, resolved to explore it to its end. We proceeded 
 faster than before ; came to the large ridge of loose stone 
 and presently came up with the before-mentioned wall. 
 We continued along to the little arched door, the passage 
 was just large enough to admit a man on his hands and 
 knees. I being the smallest, entered first, and in going 
 eight or ten feet found it began to widen, but grew no 
 higher ; I creeped along, and found a sudden descent of 
 about three feet, down which I got and found myself 
 standing on sand. Watson, in crawling after me, by some 
 means extinguished his torch, which, by his holding it in 
 tlie passage, had enabled me before to see my way : but 
 now the blackest gloom surroimded us — gloom too ter- 
 rific for expression. Luckily, I had brought the fire- 
 works with me, and lighting a match, we lit both our 
 torches, Watson having got with me on this sand bottom. 
 We proceeded, w^alking upright. The dropping of wa- 
 ter had ceased, and the sand under our feet appeared dry. 
 At this instant my eyes met a spark of lustre just before 
 me. I applied my torch to it, and to our joy found 
 symptoms of gold with the sand. We soon found our 
 conjectures were true ; for going a few steps further we 
 came to a small running stream, clear as crystal, in the 
 bottom of \vhich we saw thin specks of virgin gold. We 
 now looked in every fissure of the surrounding rocks, if 
 possible to descry some vein ; but there was none to be 
 found. We followed this stream to its discharge, under 
 the projecting point of a rock : jtill strong marks of gold 
 were visible. We gathered a small quantity in the bot- 
 tom of this stream, and were about to return, when wc 
 proposed to take a little brandy and continue our search. 
 We had now been in half an hour, and our light-wood 
 was half c^onsumed. We took hasty steps from side to 
 
60 KER'S TMl^A^flLS: 
 
 side, and at length came to an £\scei;it of ten or twelve feet, 
 up which we crawled ; then having to stoop on our hands 
 and knees, we still ascended tlirough a craggy broken 
 passage of rocks, some loosely hanging and turning as we 
 moved over them. In this way we continued some time, 
 Watson being before, when I called to him to return be- 
 fore our lights were entirely consumed, and we should be 
 left to perish in tliis dark abode. He seemed to pay no 
 attention to what I said, and still pushed on, observing 
 that the air was not so damp as he proceeded. In a short 
 time Watson informed me he saw light from heaven, and 
 we soon found ourselves in a situation in which we could 
 see the beauties of the morning sky : but the ascent had 
 now become perpendicular, forming a kind of chimney of 
 a triangular form, about nine feet high, and so wide as 
 not to. admit of bracing out. Watson placed himself 
 against the side of the rock, and by getting on his head I 
 Avas enabled to leap out. I then procured a long stick 
 sufficiently strong to bear his weight, by the help of which 
 he got safely out. I had unperceived cut myself in seve- 
 ral places about my knees and legs, by the rugged pas- 
 sage through which we came. With heartfelt satisfaction 
 we sat down by the mouth of the cave \va had ascended, 
 and recounted each particular of our past fears and joys, 
 and drew up satisfactory conclusions with regard to the 
 existence of gold in the bowels of this spacious cavern ; 
 gold which, when tried, w^e found to be of the purest 
 kind. We here made a minute of every particular re- 
 specting what we had seen. 
 
 These caverns lie in latitude 18** 23' north ; they are 
 bounded east by a river which runs a southerly course, 
 the given name of which I have not heard, being neither 
 
KER?S TRAVELS. 61 
 
 krge nor noticed ; on all other sides it is bounded by a 
 ^vild forest, and projecting peaks of stony cliffs. 
 
 29th. We started on our return to the port, calculat- 
 ing our course, and determining to take a near direction. 
 Worn out with fatigue, and the heat of the weather, we 
 made slo^v progress. The course we took shortened our 
 way considerably, yet we Had to cross high mountains', 
 and branches of rivers which constantly intercepted our 
 passage, and the many curiosities would detain us, as well 
 as the heavy rains, which seemed to be let down in one en- 
 tire sheet, sweedy cooling the air and scattering the sul- 
 try vapours, and rendering it pleasant and wholesome. 
 
 On the 3d of July we arrived at the town, where I was 
 taken sick with the intermittent fever, brought on by con- 
 stant exposure to the scorching sun. By good care and 
 attendance I soon recovered my health and strength. 
 During the time of my sickness, Watson had shipped to 
 some place, as I supposed, with the news of his adven- 
 ture ; and I have since learned that he returned with a 
 company and further explored this grotto, where they 
 found gold in abundance. 
 
 On my passage from St. Jago, in the island of His- 
 paniola, to the Havanna, I experienced one of those ter- 
 rible hurricanes which are so frequent in these latitudes. 
 It was after a serene, fine day, in which the beams of an 
 almost vertical sun had just been ameliorated by a gentle 
 sea-breeze, that the sl^y became suddenly overcast ; dis- 
 tant thunder, and the flashes of lightning which gleamed 
 in the west, announced an approaching storm. Our Cap- 
 tain, a man who had a considerable share of nautical 
 skill, endeavoured by his care and attention, to put our 
 little bark in such preparation as to meet it with success. 
 W,f were in imminent danger from a rocky. coast which 
 
* 
 
 62 KEll'S TRAVELS. 
 
 extended from west to east, and on which it was almost 
 impossible for us to avoid being dashed. The storm 
 soon increased to such a rate that we were under the ne- 
 cessity of striking all sail, and driving at the mercy of 
 the waves. In this situation we waited with calm resig- 
 nation for the moment when we should be precipitated on 
 a barren and inhospitable shore, and the tremendous 
 dashing of the breakers to leeward soon convinced us that 
 we had every thing to dread. The Captain, in this ex- 
 tremity, advised us to continue on deck, and taking ad- 
 vantage of some favourable opportunity to gain the shore. 
 In a few minutes our vessel struck upon the beach, and 
 the waves dashed almost continually over us. The coast 
 was so rocky that it was well known she would soon go 
 in pieces. Our boat was immediately launched, and 
 twelve men went into it; but before she had proceeded 
 twenty yards fi'om our vessel, she was upset, and every 
 one on board perished in the surf. The vessel was rapid- 
 ly going to pieces, and death seemed to be staring us 
 in the face ; the Captain advised me to tie myself to a 
 plank, and trust to the mercy of the waves ; I for some 
 time refused, but there was no time to be lost, as our 
 vessel was already broken in two, and could not long re- 
 main. I accordingly tied myself to a plank, and com- 
 mitted myself to the water ; in a few minutes my head 
 struck against a rock, and I became senseless. How long 
 I rem\iined so I cannot say ; but on returning sensation I 
 found myself still fast to the board, and drifted a consid- 
 erable way on the beach. I looked around, but could 
 not perceive a single living being near me. About a mile 
 from the beach was to be seen the wreck of our vessel, 
 and boxes, bales, &:c. in one promiscuous heap. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 63 
 
 in looking about me, I soon judged that I was in Cum- 
 berland harbour, and that the nearest port was St. Jago. 
 To return to that place would be attended with great dif- 
 ficulty ; the coast was dreary and inhospitable, and I had 
 upwards of fourteen leagues to go in order to reach any 
 inhabitants, and through a country thickly infested with 
 wild beasts peculiar to those warm countries. To my 
 great joy and satisfaction I soon was joined by the Cap- 
 tain and four others who had escaped the wreck, and we 
 immediately set about collecting such materials as would 
 be of service to us in our journey through the wilderness. 
 In searching over the beach we soon found plenty of 
 powder and shot ; our provisions were most of them 
 washed on shore, and although much damaged, were 
 nevertheless acceptable. In the morning we started, 
 being in all six persons, carrying with us such articles as- 
 would be useful in our dreary journey. We were now 
 going across a country which exhibits some of the finest 
 and most romantic scenery in the world ; stupendous 
 mountains, intersected with luxuriant vallies ; towering 
 rocks, whose tops are inaccessible to the foot of man, 
 present themselves on every side. 
 
 The coast on which we struck is about a mile in 
 length, extending in an irregular oval form,** being inter- 
 sected with high, craggy cliffs, whose points ejitend for a 
 mile into the sea, and form a very dangerous shore for 
 vessels ; the whole appearance of the harbour is the most 
 dreary and inhospitable of any in the world ; and when 
 viewed in one of those tremendous storms which are com- 
 mon here, by the flashes of lightnings is altogether 
 horrible. 
 
 At the same time was wrecked on the coast about a 
 niile from us, the brig Dolphin, Captain Crasewell, fron> 
 
64 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 St. Jago, bound to Philadelphia. She sailed seven days 
 before us, but owing to contrary winds and heavy fogs, 
 which sometimes pervade this coast and render it impos- 
 sible for vessels to proceed, she had been detained, and 
 had advanced but forty miles in the last four days. When 
 tlie gale came on, Captain Crasewell, who was an experi- 
 enced navigator of these seas, endeavoured by every pos- 
 sible means to get his vessel off from a lee shore, but it 
 was impossible, owing to the cun-ent, which set with vio- 
 lence toAvards the shore, and a strong wind blowing in 
 the same direction. After fruitless endeavours on the 
 part of the crew to keep her off shore, she at last struck 
 on a reef of rocks about a mile from the mouth of the 
 harbour, and almost immediately went to pieces. 
 
 There were on board this vessel two passengers, a 
 French lady and gentleman, who were on their passage to 
 the United States for the purpose of settling. The sea 
 broke in a most tremendous manner over every part of 
 the vessel, and it was impossible to keep the deck. The 
 seamen endeavoured to save themselves, some by swim- 
 ming, and others by getting into the tops and other parts 
 X)f the rigging ; but all those who were tempted to swim 
 on shore, were dashed by the violence of the waves against 
 the reef of rocks, and perished before they could reach 
 the land. Captain Crasewell was twice washed over- 
 board, and each time had the good fortune to regain the 
 vessel. The lady and gentleman were less fortunate : 
 they had been lashed on the quarter-deck, and were wait- 
 ing a favourable opportunity to get on shore, when by 
 some accident the lashing became loose, and before it 
 could be secured, a violent swell broke over the ship and 
 swept them to some distance from the vessel. They 
 screamed, and intreated the mercy of some one to. relie\'e 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 65 
 
 them from their dreadful situation : but in vain ; it was 
 impossible for human aid to reach them, and they were 
 consigned to a watery grave. The masts now went by 
 the board, and the unhappy \^Tetches who were suspend- 
 ed in their tops were dashed with violence against the 
 rocks and perished. Captain Crasewell, who had hither- 
 to continued to direct and assist his crew, now found him- 
 self with only one black man, Avho by lashing himself to 
 the caboose had been enabled to keep on board. The 
 negro assured him that this was the safest part of the ves- 
 sel, and that could he once reach it he would be enabled 
 to sustain life until the storm Was over. Captain Crase- 
 well attempted to join the black, but in so doing lost his 
 life, just as he had quitted that part of the vessel in which 
 he stood. A wave exceeding in violence any thing which 
 had been before, swept over the ship, washed him over- 
 board, and rendered it impossible for him to regain the 
 vessel : his head was dashed with violence against a rock, 
 and he floated lifeless to the beach. 
 
 The consignees, upon hearing of the melancholy event, 
 ordered persons to proceed to the place where the vessel 
 struck, to collect the dead bodies, and inter them. A 
 reward of forty dollars was offered for the body of Captain 
 Crasewell; which was soon found, brought round to 
 St. Jago, and interred with all due respect. This gen- 
 tleman left a family in Philadelphia to mourn his loss, and 
 was considered by all who knew him as an honest and 
 w^orthy man : he had been in the West-Indik trade for a 
 number of years, and was well acquainted with the dan^ 
 gers of the coast ; but such is the violence of these storms 
 that it is found impossible for the most experienced navi- 
 gators to combat them with success. The bl^ick man 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
66 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 succeeded in getting on shore alive, and was the only per 
 son who escaped this scene of death. 
 
 When we arrived in St Jago, I immediately waited on 
 the American consul who furnished me with such assist- 
 ance as enabled me to get over a considerable of the 
 cargo, and such other articles as were valuable ; but they 
 were comparatively very trifling, and were but a small 
 portion of that wealth which we had when we left that 
 place a week before ; we had then a full cargo of goods, 
 valued at 17,000 dollars, two-thirds of which was belong- 
 ing to myself, and now the whole amount of my wealth 
 did not exceed 500 dollars. This sudden reduction of 
 my fortune occasioned a depression of spirits which it was 
 impossible for me to overcome, and for which it ^vas 
 necessary that I should find some remedy, and recruit my 
 diminished finances. But thus it is ; human happiness is 
 ever unstable ; we are never certain of one hour's peace 
 or security, and in the morning we may be possessed of 
 affluence, and in the evening be sunk in poverty. I still, 
 however, was calm and resigned to my fate ; I looked 
 with composure upon the scene around me, and had this 
 cheering consolation, that although I w^as bereft of pro- 
 perty, I was still breathing the pure air of nature, and 
 looked up with gratitude to the Author of all good, for 
 my preservation from many dangers and perils ; to his 
 vuiseen arm I was indebted for sustaining me while float- 
 ing on the liquid expanse, and dashing against the rocks ; 
 and I felt no less gratitude for my safety and protection 
 through a trackless and almost biirren wilderness. In 
 fact, a traveller who traverses any extent of territory, has 
 abundant cause to be thankful for that protection which 
 enables him to visit the barren waste, the wooded forest. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 67 
 
 and the haunts of the uncivilized savage, in safety ; and 
 to repose in his tent, fearless of the spear or tomahawk. 
 
 The harbour of St. Jago is strongly fortified by nature 
 as well as art, and is w^ell calculated for affording refresh- 
 ment to vessels. The fort is well built, and its lofty bat- 
 tlements, rising from the level of the sea, aiford a roman- 
 tic and picturesque prospect. The country is agreeably 
 diversified with hills and vallies, and being always cov- 
 ered with verdure has a lively and gay appearance. To 
 this fort I frequently strayed in the morning, w^ien the 
 gray twilight ^vas gently retiring before those streaks 
 of gold, which are the forerunners of the glorious re- 
 gent of day. The rising of the sun in this country 
 is uncommonly elegant, and w^ould require the pencil 
 of a Raphael, or the descriptive powders of a Burke, to do 
 justice to it : first appears a few light clouds, which 
 quickly disappear and are succeeded by others still more 
 red, until the bright king of the morning appears above the 
 horizon. Notliing can be more grand or majestic than his 
 appearance, just rising above trees and plants eternally 
 covered with verdure ; the feathered songsters welcome 
 his approach ; all nature seems revivified, and the busy 
 hum of men, as they go backwards and forwards fi-om 
 the shore to their vessels, together with the lowing of the 
 cattle, and other occurrences w^hich are common on a" 
 morning in this country, present a scene which is at once 
 cheering and instructive. Mankind being by nature 
 formed for employment, it is not only necessary but 
 proper diat they should commence their labour early, that 
 they may be enabled to rest in the evening — and this not 
 only applies to olir business of a day, but to our journey 
 through life ; we should endeavour by an early and fru- 
 gal application of pur time and talents, to lay up such a ' 
 
... ^ 
 
 68 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 store as will enable us to pass the evening of our days in 
 peace and prosperity, and not to have the bitter reflection 
 that we have wasted our earliest years, without deriving 
 that profit from thenn which ought to be expected from 
 our exertions. 
 
 That chain of mountains which runs through His- 
 paniola, has many detached parts, which are remarkable 
 for their grandeur and beauty ; they possess that bold and 
 romantic appearance, which cannot fail to strike the be- 
 holder with aw^e and admiration. The part over which I 
 •more immediately went, has many beauties to recommend 
 it* to the attention of the traveller who delights in the 
 grand and sublime. The vale from which it rises is about 
 a mile in extent : the rise is gradual for about 600 
 yards, when it becomes more steep, craggy, and difiicult 
 of ascent ; the view from the top amply repays you for 
 all the toil and difiiculty you undergo in arriving at its 
 summit ; you there view an extent of about seven miles 
 in one of the finest countries in the world : the vallies 
 and liills seem as though they were covered with a mag- 
 nificent carpet, which is agreeably enriched with a thou- 
 sand different colours ; the magnolia, the lemon, and the 
 orange tree, in full bloom, yield a delicious fragrance, 
 which scents the air and gives animation to the scene. 
 The feathered songsters tune their little throats, and war- 
 ble with a melody at once exquisite and ravishing ; in 
 fact, there is no country in the world where the music of 
 the feathered tribe is heard with such enchanting melody 
 as in this. The stillness of the scene scarcely interrupted 
 by the rustling of the trees, for as yet civilized man, as 
 Jie is called, has not set his foot in a region which may ; 
 with truth be termed happy, is favourable to reflection , 
 md here the mind, lulled to repose, cannot but indulge 
 
-^fuc^^^^rc 
 
 KER'S TRAVELS. 69 
 
 in retrospective contemplation of the scenes of horror and 
 bloodshed, which once desolated this fair country of its 
 aboriginal inhabitants. Born originally free and indepen- 
 dent, they disdained to cringe at the feet of tyrants, and 
 knew not slavery but by the name. Accustomed to elect 
 their own chief, and dispose of their own territory, they 
 could not behold without indignation, a set of foreigners 
 driving them from their lands, and appropriating its riches 
 to their use. The cruelties exercised by a Cortez, and a 
 Pizarro, have desolated one of the finest countries in the 
 world of more than seven millions of inhabitants. Ac- 
 cording to the estimate made by . the Abbe Clavegero, 
 there was destroyed upwards of one million in a year ! 
 And this too, by a nation professing the religion of Jesus, 
 and who undertook the subjugation of the country for the 
 sole purpose of obtaining converts to a religion which is 
 all love, and is bottomed on the broad basis of infinite 
 mercy, and of which humanity and gentleness are con- 
 sidered among the most radia/it characteristics. 
 
 I soon met with a favourable opportunity, and returned 
 to Kingston in the island of Jamaica. My late excursion 
 had in a great degree reduced my finances, and had 
 taiight me to expect disappointment and trouble wherever 
 I went. On my arrival at St. Jago I endeavoured to ar- 
 range my finances for a speedy return to the United States. 
 My affairs were soon in such order as enabled me to look 
 around and make such observations as would probably 
 be of service. 
 
 St. Jago de la Vega is at present the capital of die 
 island of Jampca, and was settled very early. It con- 
 tains about 600 houses, and 8,000 inhabitants. The offi- 
 cers of government have their public offices in this town, 
 \ad the Governor has a superb palace, in which he reside^;. 
 
70 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 It stands in Middlesex county, and is at the southeast end 
 of the island. The situation is healthy, and the soil fer- 
 tile and calculated to yield all that is necessary for the sup- 
 port of life. ' It is in latitude 18° 24' north. 
 . Having had occasion to mention the island of Ja- 
 maica, I think it will not be improper for me to give a 
 general description of it, as it is considered one of the 
 finest of the West-India islands, and has been famous for 
 its sugar plantations. This island is the largest of the 
 Antilles, lying in latitude between 17 and 19° north, and 
 between 77 and 79° west longitude. It is about one hun- 
 dred and twenty miles in length, and seventy in breadth, 
 and forms nearly an oval. This island was discovered by 
 Christopher Columbus on his second voyage to America, 
 who ^\^as much charmed with it, and prefen*ed it to any 
 other. It was very soon settled by the Spaniards, and 
 continued in their possession until it was subdued by the 
 English under the command of Admirals Penn and Vena- 
 ble. The staple commodity at that time was cocoa ; but 
 the planters introduced the culture of the sugar-cane, 
 which has now become the staple of the country. 
 
 To a traveller who arrives after a tedious passage across 
 the Atlantic, this island has a most beautiful appearance, 
 
 bv reason of its constant verdure. The coast is low, but 
 
 w 
 
 rises agreeably into hills, separated by vallies. The hills 
 are far from being unpleasant, as they are crowned to their 
 very summit with towering trees. The streams of water 
 are numerous and pleasant, altliough none of them are 
 navigable. They give a richness and variety to the scene, 
 and are higlily delightful in a country immediately be- 
 tween the tropics. Thunder is very frequent, and rain 
 storms sometimes last a fortnight. HuiTicanes are also 
 jcommon, and sometimes do great damage among tlv 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 71 
 
 plantations of sugar-cane. There are instances of their 
 being so violent as to unroof houses, tear up large trees 
 by the roots, and even to remove substances of more than 
 two tons weight to the distance of a quarter of a mile. 
 
 The island is divided into three counties containing 
 twenty parishes, over each of which presides a magistrate 
 styled a Custos ; but those parishes in point of size are a 
 sort of hundreds. The whole contains thirty-six to^vns 
 and villages, twenty churches, and about twenty-three 
 thousand white inhabitants. 
 
 This island abounds in maize, pulse, vegetables of all 
 kinds, meadows of fine grass, beautiful flowers, and as 
 great a variety of oranges, lemons, citrons, and other rich 
 fruits, as any island in the West-Indies. There are also 
 useful animals of all sorts, horses, asses, mules, black 
 cattle of a large size, and sheep, the flesh of which is well 
 tasted, though their wool is hairy and bad. Goats and 
 hogs are also plenty, sea and river fish, wild and tame 
 fowls. The articles exported are sugar, cocoa, indigo, 
 pimento, cotton, ginger, and coffee ; trees for timber and 
 other uses, such as mahogany, manchineel, whitewood, 
 which no worm will destroy, cedar, olive, and many 
 more. Besides these they have fustic, redwood, and ^^a- 
 rious other materials for dyeing. To these may be added 
 a multitude of valuable drugs, such as guaiacum china, 
 sarsaparilla, cassia, tamarinds, and the prickly pear or 
 opuntia, which produces the cochineal ; with no incon^ 
 siderab?^ quantity of odoriferous gums. Near the coast 
 they have salt ponds, and might make any quantity of salt 
 they please. 
 
 As the island abounds in. a number of rich articles, it 
 has also a number of safe ports, which enable the diflx^r- 
 ent commodities of the country to be shipped with safctv 
 
72 KER^S TRAVELS, 
 
 and to advantage. Point Morant, the eastern e^tremitr 
 of the island, has a fair and commodious bay. Port Roy- 
 al, to the south, stands on a neck of land which forms one 
 side of it. There stood once the fairest town on this 
 island ; and the harbour is as fine a one as c^ be wished, 
 capable of holding fifteen hundred large vessels, and is 
 still the station of the English squadron. Old Harbour 
 and Macary Bay are both of them commodious ports, 
 and there are at least twelve more between this and the 
 western extremity, which is Point Negrille, where ships 
 of war lie when there is a war with Spain. 
 
 The town of Port Royal stood on a point of land run- 
 ning into the sea, barren and incapable of producing any 
 thmg ; yet tlie excellence of the port, the convenience of 
 having ships of eight hundred tons burthen coming close 
 up to their wharves, and other advantages, gradually at- 
 tracted inhabitants in such a manner, that though many of 
 their habitations were built on piles, there were near two 
 thousand houses in the town, which were let at high rents. 
 The earthquake which happened in 1692 entirely over- 
 threw the town, and destroyed a great number of its in- 
 habitants. This earthquake was followed by an epidemic, 
 of which great numbers died ; some authors say three 
 thousand. Yet the place was rebuilt, and again reduced, 
 by fire, in 1703, and then the inhabitants removed to 
 Kingston. Hurricanes since that time have been very 
 frequent, and have occasioned terrible devastation ; one 
 in particular, in 1800, almost overwhelmed the little town 
 of Savannah la Mar. At present there is but a small 
 number of houses, which are chiefly owhig to the im- 
 portance and convenience of its harbour. A large por- 
 tion of the West-India fleet ride a . great part of the year 
 in this port. 
 
KER'S TBAVELS. 73 
 
 f> 
 
 The trade of Jamaica is very considerable, and is car- 
 ried on directly with Great Britain, Ireland, the United 
 States, and Africa. The articles usually exported have 
 been enumerated, and have generally been advantageous 
 to the planters. By the Inspector General's report made 
 to the British government for 1800, the amount of ex- 
 ports to the United States alone, amounted to 151,071/. 
 sterling, whilst the imports from the same country only 
 amounted to 125,000/. leaving a balance of 26,071/. in 
 favour of the planters. 
 
 The principal article exported to the United States is 
 sugar, which, as has been fouiid by recent experiments, 
 can be made as well in New- Orleans as in any part of the 
 A Vest- Indies. By affording due encouragement to the 
 New- Orleans planters, we should soon be enabled to rival ^ 
 the West-Indies, and preserve the balance of trade in our 
 own hands. 
 
 I found it necessary for me again to return to the United 
 States ; and I thought, as I intended to ascend the Red 
 river and penetrate by that route into the interior of Mex- 
 ico, I should be nearer my destined port, and likewise en- 
 abled to make such arrangements as would be necessary, 
 by sailing again for New- Orleans. I accordingly em- 
 barked on board the ship Golden Hunter, Captain Swan, 
 and after a pleasant passage of eighteen days arrived in 
 the city. I immediately waited on my old friend. Dr. 
 De Fludcai', and found him in good health and spirits, 
 and overjoyed at my return. He informed me that he ar- 
 rived safe, but had been very sick immediately after his 
 return. He had heard of our shipwreck, and was in ap- 
 prehensions lest I should have sustained a more serious 
 ^'^iccidcnt than the loss of my property. I imparted to 
 
 10 
 
 

 ■ m \ .- 
 
 74 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 him my design of visiting the south of Mexico by the 
 Red river, and he cheerfully set about procuring me such 
 information as was in his power. 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 The author lecwes New-Orleans — Arrives at Natches — 
 The immher of stagnant pools highly injurious — Hires 
 a negro — Constructs a canoe — Departure from Natches 
 — Satisfaction of his negro — Relates his story, and 
 promises fidelity — Arrives at the Natchitoches — Beau- 
 tiful appearance of the land — Excessive fall of the dews 
 — Arrives among the Cadoe Indians — Description of 
 them — Vast herds of buffalo and deer — Alarmed by the 
 arrival of Indians — Description of streams- which fall 
 into the Red river — irrives at the cavern called Bal- 
 desod — Description of it — Singular inscription on the 
 
 * inside, 
 
 I LEFT New- Orleans on the 1st Sept. for Natches, taking 
 the nearest route, which was to cross lake Ponchartrain, 
 from Avhich a bayau makes up within one mile arid a half 
 of the rear of the city of Nev/- Orleans. This lake com- 
 municates with the gulf of Mexico, and by lake Maurepas 
 and Ibberville river it communicates with the Missisippi ; 
 it is fifty miles in length and thirty in breadth. The 
 bayau is about eight miles, from its head to the lake, very 
 narrow and crooked ; the motion of its water is very slow, 
 meandering through a low, swampy marsh, inliabited only 
 by alligators and reptiles. 
 
KER^S TRAVELS. 75 
 
 In the summer season nothing could equal the nau- 
 seous and disagreeable smells that proceed from these 
 stagnated waters, which breed innumerable legions of 
 musquetoes, filling the air with their music, and spciring 
 jio pains in visiting strangers, and bestowing their atten- 
 tions upon the whole animal creation. As the evening 
 approaches, the air is di\rkened with clouds of them, 
 arising from the marshes and lakes. The inhabitants, for 
 the preservation of their blood and the safety of their 
 lives, sleep under a netting stretched over their beds, 
 suffering rather witli suffocation than to be devoured 
 alive. 
 
 On my arrival at Natches, I formed an acquaintance 
 with a Spanish gentleman immediately from Mexico, 
 who informed me of the unexampled luxuriance of 
 that country ; of the disposition of the inhabitants in 
 general, situation of the principal rivers which water- 
 ed that extensive region ; likewise of the numerous 
 streams flowing through it — many of these rivers 
 were nameless. He also informed me of the numerous 
 mines with which the country ^vas richly stored, some 
 of which he described to be very extensive, which 
 lay quite in the interior; of several nations of Indians who 
 seemed jealous of their worth, and would prohibit any 
 search, or the giving of any particular account respecting 
 their- situation. 
 
 I informed him of my intended route, in which he 
 wished me great success, still questioning the propriety 
 and prudence of my determination, which was to ascend 
 the Red river to its source, and then to take such direc- 
 tion as circumstances should appear to justify. I was 
 careful to note down all his information, remarks, and 
 opinions. 
 
76 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 1 was now daily impatient, waiting for necessary prepa- 
 rations and arrangements for a precarious and unknown 
 journey, from which I was withheld in the first outset by 
 some providential cause. I now had health and strength,* 
 and was invigorated with fabulous ideas, thinking myself 
 in the sure road to wealth and fame, forgetting all former 
 sufferings, disappointments, and hardships. All was not 
 sufficient to reconcile me to the idea of giving up my love 
 of roving, and I set my own case, as it will appear, as an 
 example for unwary youths who cultivate an early habit 
 of wasting time in fanciful pursuits, destroying their con- 
 stitutions, and flying from domestic enjoyments, in quest 
 of that detested root of all evil, and the only object of our 
 hearts. Such .will mine appear, after several years use- 
 less toil, spent in the search of, alas ! nothing. 
 
 I hired a negro, who being free soon, offered his ser- 
 vices on reasonable terms. Having a boat of my own 
 construction now completed, which was small, merely for 
 the purpose of a temporary use. I spent several weeks 
 in making preparations, and constructed a co^ er over the 
 stern of my boat, that I could take down at pleasure. Be 
 sides this I prepared myself v»^ith oil skins, and a provision 
 chest : I also purchased a number of articles fancied by 
 the Indians, as well as drawing instruments, and paint 
 brushes and colours, having with my uncle in London 
 acquired the art of miniature painting. I had a good 
 brace of pistols, but not thinking them sufficient, I pur- 
 chased a rifle and tomahawk. I likewise procured a 
 prospective glass, compass, thermometer, &c. 
 
 Thus equipped, with a stout, rugged negro, I left 
 Natches on the 5th Oct. 1809, bound for new disco^c- 
 ries. Natches lies in 31o north lat. Various ^^vere the 
 opinions of the inhabitants with respect to my appe^irance 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 77 
 
 at my departure, and where I was destined ; but all their 
 enquiries were in vain. My boat was light, and I soon 
 lost sight of Natches. 
 
 It was now my intention to descend the Missisippi to 
 the mouth of Rouge or Red river, and pursue its waters 
 to their source. I made Edom (my black fellow) ac- 
 quainted with the intended tour, with which he seemed 
 highly pleased, and desirous of gaining my good will, 
 and of entitling himself to my confidence. No pains to 
 please and encourage me was by any means wanting on 
 his part. In short, I ever found Edom to be actuated by 
 the principles of honesty and bravery. 
 
 The weather being extremely warm, my awning of 
 canvass was spread, which afforded a goodly shade, with- 
 out which the heat would have been intolerable. On the 
 6th the thermometer stood at 98° at ten o'clock in the 
 morning. There was not the smallest breeze stirring, 
 which is something uncommon, and what I considered 
 as a forerunner of convulsive winds and rain, I never 
 before felt heat so intolerable. The pitch ran in every di- 
 rection On my little boat. It continued so till three 
 o'clock, when the heavens w^ere clouded with dai'kness 
 until it was relieved by heavy rain and hail, accompanied 
 with such tremendous shocks of thunder that in a little 
 time the stores of nature seemed exhausted, and a cooling 
 breeze succeeded. This was the first trial I had of my. 
 oil-cloths, which kept me perfectly dry, as well as my ap- 
 paratus. 
 
 My negro seemed to be delighted with having an op- 
 portunity of displaying his enterprising disposition, and 
 in the thickest of the storm would use every exertion ; 
 and when the rain descended, not in drops or streams, 
 but in entire sheets, he Avould with seeming pleasure cry 
 
78 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 out, Ah, niassa, dis be notten what we see yet. After 
 the storm had subsided I set him to bailing out the boat : 
 I then informed him of the dangers to which we should 
 in all probability be exposed from the elements, as well 
 as fi'om the wilds of the country, and that the length of 
 our tour ^vas uncertain. I likewise told him of the object 
 of my pursuit, adding if he would be faithful to me he 
 should reap a share of any profit which might accrue- 
 from the undertaking. He consented to every proposal, 
 and I now had an African born negi'o for my companion. 
 He was six feet two inches high, and would weigh 260 
 pounds. 
 
 On the 7th, at night, we reached the mouth of Red 
 river. We came too after entering, and encamped for 
 the night, having made a small fire and smoke, in order to 
 sleep more securely from musquetoes. After we had 
 taken a little supper, I sat down meditating on my plans. 
 My distracted brain filled me with such impatience that I 
 tliought every moment an hour. The fatigue of the day 
 had wearied us both ; but I observed Edom busied in 
 some reflection, and with a very thoughtful air, A kind 
 of melancholy ensued as he turned his eyes towards the 
 dying colours of the west. I watched him for some 
 time, and at length asked him if he wished he was at 
 Natches. He firmly replied. No : but, says he, I was 
 just thinking of my tired life, and the trouble I had seen. 
 I then requested him to relate the account. He took his 
 seat near me, and began as follows : 
 
 " I was brought to this country about twenty years 
 ago, by the Portuguese, who sold me to a very ugly man 
 on the island of Jamaica. By that master I was shame- 
 fully abused for two years, for being, as he called me, 
 dumb ; I could not understand what he said, and could 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 79 
 
 hot for some time handle the tools belonging to the plan- 
 tation ; I was whipped almost every day, and ^vas sink- 
 ing under a pressure of trouble too great for me to bear, 
 when a kind providence interceded, and I was for a 
 short time at ease, by being confined on board a ship ; 
 but I was sorely pinched with hunger, and knew not my 
 destiny. Having been torn from a loving wife who I had 
 lately married, and crammed with several of my compan- 
 ions slaves in the hold of the ship, and there suffocating 
 with heat, hunger, and anguish ; — but as I said before, I 
 was again sold and went on board a ship ; I had done 
 nothing, but run away from my master, and gone to w ork 
 for another man ; this so enraged him that he tied me 
 down to the ladder and gave me seventy lashes, which 
 was near being my end. Finding I was not now able to 
 work, he sold me. I was then taken to St. Domingo, 
 and was made to work with a great chain to my feet, 
 which galled me sorely. My new master was, if possible, 
 -^vorse than the other. I one day was very sick, and was 
 scarcely able to move, though I had much more to do, 
 for I had my chain to carry, as well as to roll a wheel- 
 barrow with stone, as we were building a fort. My sick- 
 ness continued a few^ days, when I sunk down on the 
 ground with acute pains in every part of my body, such 
 as I had never experienced before. I had not lain in tliis 
 posture long before my pains were increased by the tor- 
 menting whip of the overseer, who said as he gave me 
 sixty lashes, that he would teach me to be stubborn. My 
 back was quite raw : I could not rise from the ground 
 when I was told, but lay still ; at which he began- to kick 
 me with violence in the face and sides, which soon de- 
 prived me of my senses. How long I lay there I am not 
 al)le to tell, but on my recovery I found myself in a dark 
 
80 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 cellar ; I gave free vent to my anguish, and prayed to be 
 out of existence. The next day there was brought three 
 more ^vho Avere whipped, and* the blood running in 
 streams from their backs. After the master had left du- 
 cell, my poor companions informed me that they were to 
 receive thirty more lashes in the morning, and for no 
 other crime tlian that of having been asleep ; they also 
 informed me of their hearing the master say I was to re- 
 ceive fifty. This news did not shock me, hoping it 
 might put me to an end ; I resolved, however, that I 
 would not die alone. In the morning one of my com- 
 panions was taken out and whipped. His cry awakened 
 me from melancholy to anger. After whipping him 
 they sent him to ^^'ork, and took out the two remaining 
 prisoners, leaving me for tiie last. I was now resolved 
 on death or victory. While they wxre executing this 
 hon'id deed on my companions, I with some exertions 
 got off my chain, and hunting about the cellar, I found 
 a broken spade. I placed myself by the door, and heard 
 x^urses threatened against me. When the overseer entered 
 J had new strength, and made a blo\v with the edge of 
 my spade, and soon brought him down ; I repeated my 
 blows, and had the pleasure of seeing his brains. During 
 this time he had cried for help, and now came down two 
 or three others, one of w^hich I knocked down ; the 
 others seized me, and bound me with iron bands. I was 
 now in hopes of immediate death ; but I had other scenes 
 to encounter. Thinking it would be losing too much 
 money to kill me, they shipped me on board a vessel. 
 The Captain seemed to use me with more mercy ; he 
 helped to release me from my fetters. We had a good 
 passage to New-Orleans, where I ^vas sold to a sugar 
 planter. The cruelties here, exceeded all I had ever 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 81 
 
 l)efore experienced, and if I should explain every par- 
 ticular, it would cause a hatred to all people of your 
 colour, though I have since found amongst them the ex- 
 ercise of the true principles of virtue and charity. I shall 
 only say, that I could not endure it ; I therefore set out, 
 I knew not whither, but made shift to travel by night till 
 I got to Natches. A worthy gentleman there took com- 
 passion on my distressed situation. Knowing from mv 
 account I had ran away, he advertised me in the papers, 
 and my master soon appeared. I could see determined 
 fury in his countenance, I fell on my knees before my 
 new master, begging him to relieve me from my impend- 
 ing ruin, and to my great joy I found they were making 
 a bargain ; I soon saw the demon depart, and was in a 
 world of happiness. I served my good master with 
 care. He kept me to the boating business for several 
 years. He then called me to his house for his favourite 
 servant. Soon after, he was taken ill, to my great mor- 
 tification, and died. In his will he left me about five 
 hundred dollars, and my freedom. This money was 
 soon swindled from me, and I hired with a gentleman for 
 one year, when I came across you, and I hope you will be 
 a good master, and I will be a good negro. I don't fear 
 any tiling if I can please my new master." 
 
 It was now late, and I retired to sleep. Knowing by 
 the run of his conversation the turn of his disposition, 1 
 felt much pleased with him. I told him that whatever 
 might have been the manner in which he was abused, it 
 would be nothing in comparison to what he would suffer 
 under me, if he used any deception towards me. 
 
 Morning appeared, and we again set forth on our jour 
 ney. This river has a gentle current : the water is of a 
 reddish colour, from which it derived its name ; this 
 
 11 
 
82 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 colour is caused from a red clay on die banks. The 
 mouth of die riYQr is in latitude 29° 50' north. There 
 are a few settlements at the mouth, where they raise cot- 
 ton and indigo. We had some ^v ind this day, to which 
 we set our little sail, and ran about ten miles. My negro 
 was well acquainted with the boating business, and he 
 worked up the little boat with astonishing alacrity. The 
 weather still continued warm, and we had frequent show- 
 ers of rain, which watered the thirsty plains and afforded 
 new life to the animal and vegetable creation. 
 
 On the 15th my negro killed a deer,, which afforded us 
 a fresh supply of provisions. We could discover that we 
 should have game in plenty, \\'hich affordeel me great sat- 
 isfaction. The dry season had now commenced. We 
 made considerable progress, and on the 20th came to a 
 most beautiful tract of country called the Natchitoches. 
 This was the frontier on the Spanish settlements some 
 years back, and is about 125 miles from die confluence 
 of the Red river with the Missisippi. Here the land ap- 
 pears swelling in gentle hillocks, affording a rich pasture 
 to the innumerable herds of cattle and horses which ap- 
 pear in every direction. There are some very extensive 
 plantations in this settlement. Their general produce is 
 corn, cotton, tobacco, indigo, &:c. The cattle may be 
 had for six dollars. Swine run wild, and are in great 
 abundance. They begin their cultivation the first of 
 March. During the growth of the season diey have suf- 
 ficient rains to keep a moisture in the lands ; but in Sep- 
 tember and October, when they enter their second crop,- 
 they ai'c often destroyed by drought. Although the dews 
 arc very heavy and powerful, yet the sun's rays lick up 
 this moisture before it descends to the roots, and only 
 gi^'e it time to cool the withering stalk. The dews are 
 
 y ^i 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 88 
 
 often known to fall in such a manner as to be seen run- 
 ning in little streams on the ground, as if shewing charity 
 to the thirsty soil, and giving beauty and verdure to the 
 landscape. 
 
 The inhabitants here are chiefly Spanish, but intermix- 
 ed with French, and a few Americans. Diseases are not 
 so prevalent here as on the Missisippi : the air is more 
 salubrious and wholesome, and not so liable to contagious 
 diseases. Their manner of living is very temperate, and 
 the richness of the soil is congenial with their indolence, 
 producing a plentiful supply of provisions without much 
 labour in cultivation. 
 
 After remaining in these settlements for a few days we 
 again pursued our course up this river, which runs east 
 and west in its general course. A few days brought us 
 to a nation of Indians, called the Cadoes, who inhabit a 
 fine tract of country lying on die north side of the Red 
 river. A creek emptying into this river I pursued till I 
 found it to be settled with wigwams and Indian huts. 
 During my stay amongst them I was well treated. The 
 Chief informed me that their forefathers sprang from a 
 race of people towards the setting sun, and that they had 
 by wars been reduced to about fifteen hundred. 
 
 These Indians are of small stature in comparison with the 
 other tribes east of the Missisippi : they live principally 
 by fishing and hunting deer, which are in great abundance. 
 They have had the Gospel amongst them, as well as a 
 teacher of the English language ; but their labour was 
 met with coolness. Many of them speak the Spanish 
 language, by which means I received information re- 
 specting the neighbouring tribes. 
 
 I was treated with great politeness by the chief warrior, 
 who was about sixty years of ag€ and of large stature. 
 
84 KER'S TRAVELS, 
 
 He shewed .me his armour, which was \vorii by his 
 great-grandfather, who never saw a white man. His 
 grandfather, he informed me, had had many conflicts 
 with the Spaniards, as well as his own father f but they 
 had -now given up all idea of combating so powerful a na- 
 tion as the whites. He believed the Great Spirit would 
 yet restore them all their lands, and banish the aggressors. 
 
 This little tribe are very filthy in their way of living, 
 only washing themselves on particular days, as a kind of 
 ordinance. They seem not to have that jealous disposi- 
 tion with regard to their wives which other tribes have. 
 
 They informed me of a number of tribes that lived to- 
 wards the setting sun ; that some of them were very nu- 
 merous, and disliked the white men. They also told me 
 that precious metals and stones were found amongst them, 
 but they were jealous of their rights and would not suflfer 
 any search from sti'angers, and that they held correspon- 
 dence with no one except some particular Spaniards, who 
 by intrigue had pried into their secrecy, and by insinu- 
 ating little presents had received from them much wealth. 
 
 My boat and apparatus excited much wonder. Some 
 few of these Indians raise com, w^hich they pound and 
 boil. They informed me that they should in a few days 
 have a grand hunting party, and invited me to stay ; but 
 as I had now wasted much time, I concluded to proceed. 
 
 These nations inhabit a fine tract of countr}', beautiful 
 elevations, and delightful vallies glowing with wild 
 verdure. Such a country ought to be fostered by an in- 
 dustrious hand, and not left in waste by indolence and 
 sloth. > 
 
 Oct. 30. We were escorted out of this bayau into the 
 river, by the chief warrior, in a canoe ro\ved Ijy four men. 
 He wore his hair in three cues behind, encompassed b\ 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 85 
 
 .silver bands, and a ring in his nose of nine inches in cir- 
 cumference, handed down from his great-grandfather. 
 He had an open countenance which bespoke his bravery, 
 and his deportment was complete. Though age had pro- 
 cured him a few silver hairs, yet he did not appear to be 
 over thirty-five years. Contagious diseases are never 
 amongst them ; this is a plain evidence that diseases arise 
 more from intemperance and high living, than from the 
 natural effects of a climate. Although the savages art: 
 
 not blessed with the luxuries of life, yet they enjoy health, 
 \vhich ought to be prized above all other blessings in 
 life. 
 
 We again began to ascend the Red river. It is here 
 about two or three hundred yards wide, and the water 
 had become cleai'er, the banks more elevated, and we had 
 a stronger current to contend with, for several days to 
 gether. We now passed extensive priaiies, and in man} 
 places the eye found no relief, until it would meet hmd at 
 a distance. These plains aiford a rich pasture to the deer 
 and buffalo, which may be seen in droves ; still they arc 
 \ cry ^vild. 
 
 On the 6th Nov. I kille^ some deer. Having a mind 
 to take a little view of the country, I concluded to leave 
 Edom with my boat ; accordingly I took my gun and 
 some ammunition, and set out on one of the priaries, 
 I travelled a considerable distance, without meeting any 
 thing worthy of note. At length coming to a little spot 
 of low ground, I discovered a beaten path to extend quite 
 round it, and lead off in a certain direction ; I followed 
 for three or four miles, where it forked ; I kept the main 
 path. I soon found the weeds and grass were getting 
 high ; still in hopes of discovering my game, I contin- 
 ued 4:l)is way for some miles, fearing nothing but snakes, 
 
86 KER'S TRAVELS, 
 
 ivhich would often dart across my path. The \^ ceds had 
 now become as high as my head, when I found fresh 
 signs of game, and undiscovered I crawled within twenty 
 paces of several deer, feeding like sheep. I singled out 
 one that was nearest, and took deliberate aim, when my 
 gun snapped ; they instantly threw up their heads. I 
 again cocked, and just as they were making off, I brought 
 one down. It now seemed as if bedlam had broke loose. 
 Herds of deer and buffalo were running in every direc- 
 tion, leaping to the top of the weeds to discover from 
 w^hence the alarm proceeded, and discovering the smoke 
 of my gun, darted off with such swiftness that they were 
 instantly out of sight. I approached the one I had shot, 
 which lay in the agonies of death, and reared itself for an 
 attack, but was too weak. I cut its throat, and took off 
 its skin, and the best of the flesh that I could conveniently 
 carry, and started for my boat. I reached it about sun- 
 set. We then prepared a fire, and cooked our venison, 
 w^hicli was very excellent. 
 
 This night I was a little alarmed at a circumstance that 
 occurred : Our fire was extinguished, and we lay very 
 composedly ; but were awakened by a lo^v voice. I 
 raised up my head cautiously, and found there were a few 
 Indians in a canoe, coming close alongside of my boat. 
 They did not discover us, as we lay on the shore. I 
 demanded who was there, and was ansAvered in Spanish. 
 I invited them on shore, and they soon complied m ith my 
 request. They belonged to the tribe Ave had passed a few 
 days before. After informing them that we had been in 
 their nation, they treated us with respect. They told us 
 tliey had been a few days journey up the river, to visit 
 some of their friends amongst another ti'ibe — that they 
 heard the report of my gun, being not more than half a 
 
-#^&^ C^^^^i^^zrf--X^c 
 
 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 t' 
 
 mile from the river where they were — that the river took 
 a great turn, running a south course for some distance. 
 They agreed to remain with me till morning, and we 
 made up a fire. I was much pleased with their company. 
 One of them had an instrument of music of simple 
 construction, in the form of a flute, excepting that he 
 bio wed in the end ; it was about two feet long,^ and their 
 tunes were very striking, and carried along with them 
 such a natural air, accompanied by their voices, that my 
 negro fell a dancing, which much diverted the Indians. 
 
 These friendly Indians wished to trade for some of my 
 ammunition, offering me a number of otter and beaver 
 skins ; having no use for them on n^ tour, I refused to 
 take any, but presented them with some powder and lead, 
 for which I was ten thousand times thanked, and also in 
 return received some roots of different kinds, to make use 
 of In time of sickness, explaining their virtue ; one in 
 particular for the bite of a snake, describing the leaf, that 
 I might at any time be able to procure it. This I put in 
 my medicine chest, as being of great worth. Next morn- 
 ing we took leave of them, and proceeded. This day 
 we passed several tributary streams, some of them of con- 
 siderable size. We now had much bad weather i owins: 
 to this, cur progress was Aow, . 
 
 November 15. We found ourselves in a kind of bay, 
 formed by the junction of three rivers, namely, the W^ill- 
 put on the right, the Kindas on the left, and above these 
 a creek ; all of these falling together into the Red river, 
 formed a kind of bay nearly three quarters of a mile wide, 
 A little above this, on the left shore, we saw a clearing, 
 which attracted my attention. We came too, and after 
 ascending a few hundred yards I came to a steep ascent : 
 on the the summit I found it had the resemblance of ax* 
 
8^ KER'S TRAVELS, 
 
 ancient fortress. Though there were a few scattering- 
 trees of immense size, yet it bore marks of having been 
 once inhabited. The form was an oblong square, with a 
 kind of broken breastwork that would scarcely be noticed 
 without particularly examining it. In the rear of this 
 Av as a kind of hollow path covered over with shrubs, lead- 
 ing to a beautiful spring, which I found to be artificially 
 stoned. Every thing appeared ancient. I took a par- 
 ticular observation of the place and proceeded. 
 
 Continuing our course, oirthe 20th Nov. the clustered 
 summits began to appear, and looked over us with aston- 
 ishing magnificence. The river is here for miles com- 
 pressed within narrower bounds than ordinary, and runs 
 Avith greater rapidity. Being broken with rocks, the pas- 
 sage is in many places rough and dangerous. About tlie 
 middle of these towering precipices is the noted cavern 
 called by the Spaniards Baldesod, which my curiosity in- 
 duced me to visit. We came up with it on the 22d, 
 about twelve o'clock. The river being 'then in a high 
 stage of water, deterred me at first from entering, as the 
 mouth was situated near the margin of the river. How- 
 ever, the mouth being spacious, with all ease admitted us 
 to row in for several yards, where tlje bows struck a rock 
 and our passage was impeded. I stepped forward and 
 found a few feet of perpendicular ascent perfectly dry, I 
 nvas now determined to see the recesses of this cave ; ac- 
 cordingly I backed out, and after takpg a little dinner, 
 (during which time Edom procured some torch- wood,) I 
 entered, but not witliout some caution. I stepped up 
 from the boat on the ascent, and gave Edom his orders 
 to stand there in readiness if I should be in want of him. 
 Upon entering I found several inscriptions carved on the 
 wall^it tlic entrance, some dated as far back as 1384, As- 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 89 
 
 tonishing as this may appear, they were perfectly plain, 
 though partly covered over with a little moss. There 
 Were also curious images ; one amongst the rest was that 
 of an Indian and white man shaking hands together ; near 
 which was the resemblance of a canoe in a sinking condi- 
 tion, and a white man swdmming towards the shore : also 
 the resemblance of a man's hand pointing into the gloomy 
 recesses of the cavern. This last awakened my curiosi- 
 ty. On proceeding a little flirther the passage became 
 narrow and contracted, winding a little to the left. A few 
 yards more brought me into a magnificent hall of at least 
 forty feet in circumference, in the centre of which, horri- 
 ble to my view, I saw a vast number of human bones. 
 A kind of gloomy buz hummed along the passage. I 
 stood fixed to the spot in amazement. (I own my timid- 
 ity on such an occason.) Proceeding a little farther, my 
 passage was stopped by the falling of water, which nearly 
 extinguished my torch. I retreated from this awful spec- 
 tacle, and could form but a faint idea of its meaning. 
 I returned to the mouth with heartfelt satisfaction, and 
 proceeded my way up the river, meditating on what I 
 had discovered. 1st, I was astonished at the date, which 
 could not have been done by an Indian. 2d, This date 
 being placed immediately under the figure of the while 
 man and Indian, both must have been done at the same 
 time, and with the same instrument. 3d, The bones 
 could not have remained for that length of time, but 
 would have decayed into dust ; those I supposed to have 
 been deposited there some time after the carving was exe- 
 cuted. 
 
 12 
 
96 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 . CHAP. VII. 
 
 The author arrives among the Uames Indians — Received 
 tvith coldness — Quarrel betwee?i Edoni and the Indians 
 r^Gains the conjidence of the chief- — l)e scrip tion of the 
 Uames — Informed of a silver mijie — R'eluctance of the 
 Indians to discover it — Sets out to discover the mine — 
 Critical situation of the author — Branch of the. Red 
 river — Author ascends it — Salt spring — Immense herds 
 of buffalo — iuthor returns to the Red river — Sickness 
 of his negro man — Impossibility of navigating the river 
 without him — Arrives among the Ilisees Indians — Au- 
 thor agrees to accompany them — Becomes alarmed for 
 his safety — Apprehensions removed — Meets a Spaniard 
 — Some account of the llisees — Copper mine — Indian 
 hunt — Description of Lake Wauteputsa — Admiration 
 of the Indians on seeing a sail-boat — iuthor parts with, 
 his boat and purchases horses — Separates from the In- 
 dians and journies over land to the source of Red river. 
 
 At the beginning of December the journey was be- 
 coming very irksome, and was. rendered more so by con- 
 stant rains and the rapidity of the current : however, to 
 the head of the river I must go. About the 15th of 
 December I arrived amongst a natioi^f Indians called 
 the Uames. At the first interview I was received with 
 coldness and jealousy. I had now to walk discreetly in 
 every undertaking. My negro was no less suspicious 
 than mvself. A small villas:e situated on the south shore 
 was the port at which I stopped. The shores were soon 
 full of inhabitants, several of whom could speak the 
 
KER^S TRAVELS. 91 
 
 Spanish language. Leaving Edom with the boat, I re- 
 paired to the chief, who was about seventy yeai's old : he 
 spoke the Spanish language, and made much inqmr}^ 
 with respect to my business in his nation. I replied tliat 
 I had no other view than that of seeing the country. He 
 told me immediately of the strength of his warriors. 
 However, after a further interview he used me with civil- 
 ity. I had remained in his habitation till about dusk, 
 when I was surprised at hearing a tumultuous noise at 
 the river. Supposing Edom to be in some difficulty, I 
 hastened down, and found him contending with an Indian 
 about some liquor. Having been asked by the Indian 
 for some whiskey, he refused him, telling him he had 
 none ; but soon after he took the liberty in my absence 
 to make free use of it himself, which he had never done 
 before. The Indian, discovering him pouring some out, 
 stepped into the boat, and was about to help himself, 
 when he was strenuously prohibited by Edom. A scuf- 
 fle ensued, which might have proved alarming had I not 
 been near. This trivial affair could be settled in no other 
 way than by giving each of them a small taste of brandy, 
 which I did Avith reluctance, not for the value of the li- 
 quor, but the effects it might have on their dispositions. 
 
 I gave a few trifling articles to the chief, who w^as 
 highly pleased with them. They were a few of my 
 paintings, representing birds, horses, Indians, 8cc. After 
 this he invited me to spend the night with him, assuring 
 me there was no danger of any further interruption with 
 my property in the boat : many of the most valuable arti- 
 cles I had taken out and kept concealed. 
 
 This is a very subtle and intrepid tribe, well built, 
 rather large, and of an unusually dark complexion. The 
 men liave no other dress than that of a strip of cloth just 
 
^2 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 large enough to cover their waists, and a pair of mocka- 
 sons made of deer- skin. The women wear a bkmket or 
 skin thrown loosely around them. Like all other tribes 
 they expose their infants to tlie elements, and inure them 
 to hardships, thus rendering their constitutions adequate 
 to the different scenes of their life. Soon after the child is 
 born they plunge it into M^ater, in order to prepare it in 
 time for that element : they carry it naked on their back, 
 with the head down, exposing it to the scorching beams 
 of the sun ; and thus used on its entering the world, it 
 becomes hardy, robust, and dauntless. When a few 
 months old they slit their ears and put in leaden w^eights, 
 which, in length of time, give them a singular appearance, 
 having a part of their ears hanging quite down to their 
 shoulders. 
 
 They are very strict in the execution of their laws, and 
 never grant a reprieve. If a woman commits adultery 
 she has her t^^^o last fingers cut oft' ; tlie man but his little 
 finger ; — then they are banished from society, the hus- 
 band not marrying in two years after. The la^^ s are all 
 appointed by the three chiefs belonging to the tribe. 
 
 The towns, or camps, are supported by hunting par- 
 ties, who are very expert in killing their game, having no 
 other weapon than that of a bow and arro^vs. The 
 choicest game is culled out for the chief. 
 
 Their country is well adapted to corn and other grain, 
 but they are too indolent even to clear their lands. I took 
 the liberty of asking the chief some questions respecting 
 agriculture, and whether he would not prefer tilling of 
 lands to living in this way j' To which he answered, that 
 the Great Spirit had shown the white men arts and sci- 
 ences while they were in a poor country, (Europe,) and 
 that he had given the red men an extensive countr\', full 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 93 
 
 of game ; that contrary to the expectations of the Great 
 Spirit, the white people had crossed the big waters and 
 come amongst them to make them unhappy ; that the 
 Great Spirit would yet visit the red men with greater 
 knowledge than he did the whites. He said that if there 
 had been no game given to the red men, they should have 
 had something , else provided for them, and that they do 
 not waste so much of their time to get wealth, but live 
 contentedly ; they do not expose themselves to the big 
 waters, and make slaves of poor black men. At this 
 last sentence he started up, imd with a firm voice said, 
 why do they not make slaves of the Indians ; no, no, we 
 will die under the most excruciating tortures before we 
 submit ; — and remember, the Great Spirit has endowed 
 us wdth fortitude ; he has also fi'eed our minds of any 
 such black crimes ; w^e only contend for our rights, for 
 our lands, of which we have been so often cheated. 
 
 The old man's argument had deep impression on my 
 mind ; though delivered in a simple style, it was sound, 
 and if pronounced by the learned, it would shine with 
 brilliancy before the highest court in the United States. 
 
 They had several horses which were presented to them 
 by the Spaniards ; these they use for the purpose of 
 hunting, to which they are trained up with the greatest 
 care. ■ 
 
 During my stay with these Indians they held a dance, 
 which, notwithstanding the wild appearance of it, was 
 conducted with the greatest harmony, each one keeping 
 step with their pow-wow. After the men had gone 
 through their exercises, the \vomen commenced with 
 such an. ease and elegance of manner, that it was at once 
 pleasing and enticing. Their dance continued till about 
 12 o'clock, when the chief came and asked me if I had 
 
94 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 'any whiskey. Knowing that tliey knew I had some, I 
 thought proper to own the truth. I had about a gallon 
 left, and repaired to my boat where I found Edom asleep, 
 covered with oil skins. It now began to rain. I took 
 about t^vo quarts of brandy up with me, hiding die rest. 
 The dance broke up in consequence of the rain, and we 
 repaired to their huts, 'where they soon drank up their 
 w^hiskey. The old man got a little boozey, and began to 
 tell how much he loved me, and informed 'me he would 
 the next day show me a place of metals. I was much 
 pleased with this conversation, but was soon deprived of. 
 it by his falling asleep. I now went down to my boat 
 and crept in with my faithful Edoni, 
 
 Next, morning I gave Edom his orders, and again re- 
 paired to the hut. The old chief was a litde out of order 
 at his stomach, but soon got over it. I now put him in 
 mind of his promise the preceding evening, at which he 
 was astonished, denying his ever telling me any thing of 
 the kind. When I showed him a small piece of silver 
 ore which he had presented me, he began to curse the 
 brandy as being the instigator of his folly. I smiled, and 
 told him nothing should be betrayed on my part, and that 
 if it was repugnant to his wish, I should not further in- 
 sist. After studying for some time, he suddenly con- 
 sented to show me the place of metals, and seemed highly 
 pleased in the undertaking. He consulted with some of 
 his principal men, and sent two of them with me that 
 could not speak Spanish. After ti'avelling for near two 
 days "you may w^ell imagine the critical situation in which 
 I thought myself ; but the third day I discovered their 
 intrigue. About 10 o'clock in the morning they led me 
 to a lead mine of some extent, at which I was much 
 chagrined. In vain I flattered them by signs, shewing 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 95 
 
 them the piece of silver ore ; still they would point to the 
 lead mine. Finding all in vain, I returned with tliem to 
 the village, after having had a rough travel of about ninety 
 miles. 
 
 The old fellow smiled as I entered his hut, and laughed 
 in his sleeve at the intrigue. I told him I was much dis- 
 appointed. His answer was, that all he was to do was to 
 let me see a place of metals ; by this I naturally sus- 
 pected there was silver in abundance. 
 
 Edom w^as much alarmed at my long stay, but said 
 that no one had been there to disturb him except the old 
 chief, who looked so grand that he thought if master had 
 been there he would have giv^n him some brandy ; that 
 he gave him a little, upon which the chief became very 
 sociable, and talked with him a great while ; that he pre- 
 tended to imderstand him, and answered him yes at every 
 word, till he asked for more whiskey, he then answered 
 him no ; the chief then went home, and glad enough was 
 poor Edom. 
 
 It was now time for me to proceed on my voyage ; but 
 it was jvith regret that I left such strong marks of silver. 
 Pressed forward by an impulse of future prosperity, I 
 again started on the 25th of December. The weather 
 had now become much cooler, and the travelling more 
 agreeable. A few days' journey brought us to a large— 
 branch of the Red river, which emptied in through a clus- 
 ter of rocks, forming an amphitheatre of astonishing- 
 height. I had the curiosity to ascend this branch for a 
 considerable distance, where I found the country to be 
 even, and not broken as at the mouth. Curiosity still 
 led me up this stream, and I was attracted by the beauti- 
 ful growth of timber, the starting of deer and other game. 
 After ascending about five miles we encamped. We 
 
96 RER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 had with us some fresh provision, which we cooked foi' 
 our supper. The scent of our venison attracted many 
 hungry ^isitors, which kept up an incessant howhng 
 during the night, but not approaching within an hundred 
 yards of our fire. 
 
 I arose as dayhght appeared, admiring the wonders of 
 creation. . Being determined on taking a tour witli my 
 gun, I took Edom with me, after securing the boat. We 
 proceeded in the woods for some distmce, and found 
 the ground began to get low and marshy in many places. 
 We saw signs of buftlilo having formed a kind of path, 
 which we followed for a mile, and found it end at a salt 
 spring. The spring afforded a considerable stream, which 
 I found to be extremely salt, leaving in its course a kind 
 of salt slime. The water inclined rather to a reddish 
 colour. The ground for several rods around was beaten, 
 and appeared to be often visited by wild beasts. I was 
 resolved to spend die night by this spring, and sent 
 Edom back to the boat for some articles which I waiited. 
 He returned about two o'clock : we dien made a small 
 ambuscade near the spring w ith a tree standing nearly in 
 front, and waited with patience for our game. Some 
 tim(* in the night we heard, as it were, a multitude of 
 footsteps on the march to the salt lick. On coming near 
 the spring they stopped, snuffing and smelling, as if all 
 was not right. We kept closely concealed till they ap- 
 proached the spring. I took the pams to count them, 
 and found the herd to consist of ten buffiilo. Exulting 
 with joy, I let loose at one of them which was within a 
 rod of me, and shot him dead. The report of my gun 
 alarmed the neighbouring beasts, and was ans^vered by 
 the howling of wolves, the shrill cry of pandiers, and the 
 precipitate retreat of the remaining herd, which darted like 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 97 
 
 lightning through the thicket. I sat some minutes to 
 hear tlie confusion my firing had occasioned : the sound 
 at length died away, after echoing and re-echoing up and 
 down the river. I found the buffalo I had shot quite 
 dead : he was very large, and of the male kind. We took 
 off his skin by torch light, and in the morning returned 
 to the boat with what we could conveniently carry. The 
 skin I found to be of great service after it was properly 
 cured, and the buffalo, though far from being the best*of 
 meat, was very serviceable. Flushed with the success I 
 had gained, and the singularity of my tour, I thought my- 
 self almost invincible. We returned to the Red river. 
 
 I now dwelt with rapture on the discoveries I expected to 
 make, and it was my chief happiness to liave these con- 
 solating thoughts strengthened by past occurrences. The 
 second day after our leaving this creek, my negro was 
 taken sick, which was a great disappointment to me. I 
 endeavoured to work along the boat, but it was in vain, 
 having no person to steer ; I now saw my want of him 
 more than ever. I concluded to encamp until he might 
 recover. I stopped on a small island about half a mile in 
 circumference, where I fixed up a small habitation, and 
 began to doctor my poor negro, who was very ill with .a 
 fever. I administered to him according to the best of my 
 abilities, and had the satisfaction of seeing him better in a 
 few days. During his sickness I would frequently take a 
 tour on the main shore with my gun, and found game in 
 plenty ; I saw many bears, and a few of the catamount 
 species, which I rather feared than loved. 
 
 After Edom had sufficiently recovered, we again pro- 
 ceeded ; he was still weak, and I would often row myself 
 and make hirri steer. In this manner I prosecuted 
 
 this arduous journev. The weather had become quite 
 
 13 
 
98 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 cool and frosty in the morning and evening, succeeded 
 by long storms, which made our situation very unpleas- 
 ant. 
 
 I now reached a nation of Indians ^vho called them- 
 selves the Ilisees tribe, having quite a different appear- 
 ance from any I had yet seen. I discovered them by 
 their canoes, six in number, which lay in a small bayau. 
 I went on shore and waited their arrival, expecting they 
 would soon return. They did not come back until about 
 sunset, when I had just shoved off, and was going up, 
 when they called me back in a kind of broken Spanish 
 language* I returned, and they all expressed their 
 friendship, shaking hands with me in turn, and telling 
 me by signs and broken Spanish, that they lived about 
 one day's journey to the south, and insisted on my ac- 
 companying them thither ; at which I shook my head ; 
 but they almost forcibly insisted, and I at length con- 
 sented. We all entered a creek, which I before thought 
 to be a bayau, and proceeded by Indian file till night 
 overtook us. We all stopped, and they commenced 
 fixing their camps. I did not feel well with respect to 
 our safety, as they had much confederacy together ; and 
 during the whole night I did not close my eyes in sleep- 
 They k^t,^}) a po^v-wow during the night around a few 
 small fires. I was sometimes diverted to hear them 
 mock the owls and wolves, which would so exactly cor- 
 respond with their sound that it would be impossible to 
 distii"iguish them, changing their tones from the gruffest 
 voice up to the keenest shrill. These and many other of 
 their manoeuvres, kept sleep from my eyes ; yet I would 
 pretend to be wholly unconcerned. We pitched our lit- 
 tle tent amongst them. They told me their tribe was- 
 very numerous, and that there was then -witli them a ^ 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 99 
 
 Spaniard who had been with them for the space of six 
 moons, and that he had no desire to leave them. 
 
 On receiving this information, my apprehensions were 
 all removed with regard to the plot I before suspected. 
 When we iirrived at the village, which was the next day 
 about twelve o'clock, I was escorted before the chief, 
 who sat in a drowsy position in his wigwam. I made 
 immediate inquiry for the Spaniard. A small council 
 was held among the Indians, in consequence of which I 
 did not see him until the next day; and then to my great 
 mortification I found him in a revery and almost speech- 
 less : he spake but few words, and none of these ^verc 
 satisfactory. I now had the mortification to see that one 
 of his ears was cut off close to his head : this seemed to 
 be a satisfactory proof of his former character. He con- 
 fessed that he was American born, and that he had been 
 led to commit a criminal act in the first settlement of the 
 Missisippi teiTitory, on Pearl river ; that he was cropped 
 and banished ; that he was the derision of every person 
 he met with, and had sought to hide himself from the 
 view of men in the wilderness, until it should please God 
 to take him from the world ; and that he had at length 
 come to this nation, in which he had found protection. 
 He assured me that they were a cunning artful people, 
 and apt to plunder, especially horses, for which they go a 
 great distance. He informed me that the whole nation 
 amounted to near two thousand ; that they have but one 
 gun, which belonged to the chief; that their weapofts 
 were bows, arrows, and knives, with which they \vere 
 well provided. 
 
 I made inquiry if there were any mineral substances 
 that he had yet discovered in the country. He said there 
 vas one. about an hundred miles to the north of tliem. 
 
100 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 which he supposed to be extensive, but ^hat the diffi- 
 culty in getting to it was greater than die profits arising 
 from it ; but at no great distance there was a mine of 
 copper which he had seen, and which was unknown to 
 the Indians. We clandestinely visited this spot, and 
 found a \em which we supposed to be nearly half a mile 
 in length. 
 
 During this time I was informed that the Indians were 
 to have a hunting party in a day or two, and was invited 
 to stay as it would be very diverting, and was to be on a 
 small lake situated about t\vo miles west of the town. 
 This lake communicated with the river by a small creek. 
 After some deliberation, having had an invitation from 
 them in general, I consented to stay. I was armed with 
 a good never-missing rifle and a pair of belt pistols. The 
 day of our departure from the little town on our hunting 
 tour, was ushered in by a serene sky, and we s^j^rteduith 
 the rising sun. The Indians had been previously pre- 
 paring arrows, and equipping themselves in the best pos- 
 sible manner. It was evident that their object was to 
 outdo me. This I was very willing they should. I cast 
 myself a few balls, cleaned my rifle, and fixed the chief 's 
 gun, which I found to be in a bad predicament, rusty 
 both inside and out, and not having been chai'ged in two 
 years. I cleaned it as well as possible, cut him a few 
 shot for the day, and gave him powder accordingly. 
 
 We arrived at the lake in about an hour, myself and 
 Edom in my boat, and the others, twenty in number, 
 being two in each canoe. This lake is called by the In- 
 dians Wautcputsa, or the water for game ; it is about 
 tlirec miles in length, and a mile and a half in breadth, in 
 the form of a coflin, and is bounded on all sides by 
 priai'ies ; it is interspersed with some small islands. 
 
KER^S TRAVELS. 101 
 
 On this lake and adjacent, there is game in abundance, 
 especially at this time of the year, and they only appointed 
 certain days to sport on this sacred place ; there were 
 geese, ducks, cranes, and pelicans, in thousands, as well 
 as deer, buffalo, and other land game that kept princi- 
 pally on the west side, where I was informed were a num- 
 ber of small salt licks. The white man that was with 
 them refused to accompany us for some reason that I did 
 not understand ; but after we had entered, he came along 
 the shore, keeping at a little distance, in order not to dis- 
 turb the game. The Indians would paddle their canoes 
 with astonishing velocity and exactness. We had come 
 near the centre island in the lake, and as yet had discov- 
 ered no game of consequence ; but towards the head the 
 imer was alive with geese. The Indians all got under co\'er 
 of a small island, and approached in Indian file, not making 
 the least noise in paddling, which I observed, and muffled 
 my oar with some spare cloth I had with me. We had 
 now reached the island, and all followed the chief hunter 
 in a line, putting me in the rear even of my negro. We 
 crossed the island and came behind an artificial breastwork, 
 situate immediately on the bank. After placing them- 
 selves in a proper attitude, those who had arro\vs dis- 
 charged them first, which did not seem to create any 
 alarm among the geese ; several were shot through, and 
 surrounded by others squalling so tliat I could not hear 
 myself speak. After a few were killed with arrows, the 
 old chief fired his gun, but with no other effect than that 
 of alarming the game to a flight. The Indians now sent 
 back for their canoes ; I sent for my boat also, and on 
 bringing them round to the head of the island we all 
 entered as before. After they had picked up their game 
 ^hey gave shouts of joy resembling the scream of the 
 
102 KER^S TRAVELS. 
 
 pelican, crane, and goose ; soon after we discovered a 
 number of cranes hovering around us, and at length 
 alighting at some distance on our starboard bow. The 
 Indians let fly a volly of arrows, but the distance was too 
 great. I had yet retained my fire, and was quite in the 
 rear ; bidding Edom to ease his oars, I levelled my rifle 
 and fired about 250 yards, and had tlie pleasure to see 
 one shot dead. This much pleased the chief, who began 
 to sing with vehemence, but was not followed by the 
 others. I now told Edom to show his dexterity in row- 
 ing, which he did, feathering his oars. We now reached 
 the crane, and returned, presenting it to the chief. The 
 Indians all lay in a row, in silent amazement, as I ap- 
 proached tlie chief, who was making all signs of satisfac- 
 tion in his power. I fired oflf one of my pistols as j> 
 salute. 
 
 The game being dispersed, they all began to sho^v 
 their skill in the management of their canoes, and held 
 a kind of play which I could not understand. Meantime 
 a fi^ne breeze sprang up on the lake : I now thought that 
 it was my time to show tliem an example. We bent our 
 little sail, and hoisted it up with an 0-he-o-hea-vo : it 
 caught the wind, and w^e moved with great celerity, and 
 with such ease tliat it surprised the Indians. Having, at 
 times a beam wind, it would keel up our little boat till 
 she would take in water at the gunwale. We sailed quite 
 to the head of the lake and fired, several salutes, then 
 beating down against the wind far Below them, and then 
 turning before it passed them so swift and so close that 
 they could not endure the sight. Many of them caught 
 hold of their boat when they saw us, thei# eyes being car- 
 ried astray by the sail passing them. I had j ust passed them 
 and lowered sail, when the chief rowed along- side and 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 103 
 
 begged permission to ride with me, suspecting I had the 
 power of the Great Spirit. I took liim in, and alter 
 taking a few turns lowered my sail. 
 
 The sun had now sunk to its western bed, and the 
 Ijreeze died away. Nothing eould exceed the beauty of 
 the evening, and the ronumtic situation I was placed in. 
 I'he rays of the sun were shedding their last lustre on the 
 lake, and trembling as they departed. The wild appear- 
 ance of the savages, and the melancholy aspect of every 
 thing about the lake, brought Edom to a revcry. As we 
 were all returning the Indians began a song, keeping 
 time with their paddles, which continued until wc reached 
 the shore. Hctc we wcTe met by the Spaniard, who 
 congratulated me upon my success, and expressed the 
 pleasure he had felt at seeing a little sail once more spread, 
 a pleasure which he liad not enjoyed for twelve years. 
 
 We returned to our encampment, where I was intro- 
 duced to some squaws I had not before seen. The chief 
 now kept constantly urging me to sell my boat ; but I 
 informed him it vVas the only means I had to continue 
 my travels, and strongly refused parting with it. He now 
 seemed resolved, and told me I should not titke it out of 
 his nation. I seemed to pay no reg-ard to his resolution, 
 and was making preparations to depart, when I was told 
 by the Spaniard they were in earnest, and that I could 
 trade my boat for horses, but if I refused they would take 
 it from me according to their custom, making their own 
 bargains. I felt much cbigrined at this piece of infor- 
 mation, and made strict enquiry concerning the country 
 still westward. He informed me that the source of the 
 Red river was about ninety miles further, a southwesterly 
 course ; that some parts were mounUiinous, but passable. 
 
104 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 and that after getting over the dividing ridge the country 
 i\-as beautiful, and filled ^^'ith extensive priaries. 
 
 I now suddenly changed my mode of travelling, and 
 sold my boat for two small Spanish horses. I remained 
 with diem long enough to make a couple of saddles after 
 a temporary fashion, and s;\ddle-bags, which were made 
 of my oil cloth. 
 
 The poor old chief liked his boat extremely well, but 
 could not manage his sails. He appointed a day in which 
 to make trial, tlie wind being strong from the nortlieast. 
 I advised the Spaniard to accompany him, for fear of some 
 accident ; but the chief ^\'ould have the sole management 
 of it himself. A sudden flaw of wind upset them, but 
 fortunately it happened where the water ^vas not more than 
 waist deep. By the Spaniard's help she was soon righted 
 and bailed out. The chief then gave up the management 
 to the white man, wlio conducted him with safety over 
 this little sea. ' 
 
 Time was now passing swifdy away, and I determined 
 to proceed. After contriving a sort of bridle for each 
 horse, with saddles and stirrups, and loading our equip- 
 age, we started forward, making a most singular ap- 
 pearance. Edom seemed well pleased with this way of 
 travelling, choosing it in preference to rowing ; and in- 
 deed I thought it the more expeditious. 
 
 We left this little town, called by the Indians Wascoo, 
 on the 10th of January, 1810. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS 105 
 
 CHAP. VIIL 
 
 More particular description of the Ilisees — Traditions of 
 the natives — Superstitions respecting the sun — Dan- 
 ger from wild beasts — Enormous wolf— Distress for 
 want of water — Apprehensions of an attack from the 
 Indians — Violent storm — Picturesque appearance of the 
 country — Arrives at a settlement of Spaniards and 
 Indians — Hospitable entertainment — Story of my Span- 
 ish host — Parathee Indians — Some account of them — 
 Cocoa nuts — General observations on the climate ^ bV. 
 
 The Ilisees tribe are a well made people, of large stature, 
 with high, square foreheads, sloping a little back ; their 
 complexion is lighter than any I had yet seen ; their 
 hair had a kind of reddish cast mixed with a shining 
 black. They believe that the sun is the greatest being in 
 existence, and that thunder and lightning were at his 
 command ; they also suppose the moon to be a yilcoo, 
 or wife of the sun, and that the stars are their offspring ; 
 that since the white people began to settle their country, 
 the Great Spirit was striving to scare them off' by sick- 
 ness, and by shaking the earth,* in many places, espe- 
 cially on the Missisippi ; that the red men are the fa- 
 vourites of the sun. 
 
 Their women are beautifully featured and have pleasant 
 countenances, mixed with a certain modesty peculiar to 
 their sex. The boys are early taught the use of the bow 
 and arrow, and the girls the art of making little fancy 
 baskets, &c. 
 
 * See Perry's History of the Earthquakes. 
 
 14 
 
106 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 To be acquainted with their true disposition would 
 require much experience ; but as fcir as I could discover, 
 they were arbitrary and self-willed. They supposed that 
 they originated from a people far towards the east, or 
 rising sun ; that they were at war with some of tlie tribes 
 in tliat place, and were defeated ; that a few of them, ac- 
 cording to the account of their forefathers, had come to 
 this countr}", having crossed big mountains, and come 
 down two big waters, (the Ohio and Missisippi rivers,) 
 and then up the Red river, until they found a country 
 that suited them, being neither too hot nor too cold ; that 
 the time tliat their ancestors came here was before there 
 were any white men. 
 
 The white man I found with them seemed rejoiced to see 
 me again set out. From this circumstance I concluded 
 there must either be something in the nation that attracted 
 his attention, or he had no pleasure in seeing a wlutQ 
 man. I could get from him no particulars of his life, as 
 he would immediately change the subject to something 
 else. He seemed much depressed, and would often 
 utter inarticulate words with a deep sigh, which I sup- 
 posed to proceed from a heavy heart. He slept with me 
 the night before my departure ; in his sleep he seemed 
 much troubled, and at one time exclaimed, O my wife and 
 children ! This man must certainlj^ have been unliappy, 
 and was lingering out a- life of wretchedness and misery ; 
 he had probably committed some desperate act, and to 
 avoid reproaches had wandered into this obscure region. 
 
 The superstition of this tribe in regard to the sun's 
 power is very extraordinary. When one of tliem dies, 
 they cut a small slit in the sole of each foot, and lay in 
 a leaf resembling a plant called the hound's tongue. This 
 leaf is attracted by the sun, looking towards him in the 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 107 
 
 morning, and following him till he sets in the west : it 
 then closes up till morning, and again opens with the day. 
 This they believe will conduct them safely to that ele- 
 ment, as the saviour of their souls. After this piece of 
 superstition is completed, the dead are buried, and the 
 above-mentioned plant is transplanted on their grave : if 
 it should live, they believe their departed friend has ai'- 
 rived at his blessed abode ; but should the plant not live, 
 they suppose the fact established, that the person on whose 
 grave it was placed, remains dead as the beasts of the 
 Avoods for ever. After the burial is o\er, they seek to 
 forget their sorro^v in a festal dance. 
 
 I set out from this tribe on the before-mentioned day, 
 with an escort of a number of the natives, who accompa-. 
 nied me to the head of the lake, and returned. By the 
 directions I had received from the Spaniard, with regard 
 to the source of the river, I concluded to steer west north- 
 west. I was much better equipped than might be ex- 
 pected, having a small axe something larger than a toma- 
 hawk, for which I calculated to have great use. The first 
 day, we lengthened our course by taking a circuitous 
 route to avoid bogs and morasses. At night we encamp- 
 ed on a little priarie, which afforded a good bait for our' 
 horses. We gathered some fuel and erected a small fire, 
 the weather being quite cool. We tied our horses head 
 and foot, not following the directions we had received 
 from the Indians, who told us that we could let them run 
 at large and they would not leave us ; but being appre- 
 hensive of some intrigue, and that they by these means 
 expected to get their horses again, we were cautious. 
 This was only a conjecture of mine. Our horses staid 
 quietly around us, the pasture being good : in substance- 
 
108 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 it resembled the blue grass, and though it was something 
 withered they ate it with greediness. 
 
 But this night was rendered very unpleasant by the con- 
 stant roar of the wolves which surrounded us in an open 
 field. Our horses kept near the lire, and would shudder 
 at their tremendous howl. They often approached so 
 near to us, as to be seen very plainly during the forepart 
 of the night, and towards morning they became quite 
 alarming, and would approach within pistol shot. What 
 rendered our case more dangerous, was the scarcity of 
 fuel, and there being none handy ; we used what we had 
 with economy, but at length it was quite extinguished, 
 and only a few embers left : these we scattered round, 
 which caused a momentary terror in the wolves. I was 
 now resolved to try my rifle at one which cautiously ap- 
 proached towards our horses : I levelled between his 
 eyes, and shot him dead upon the spot. This caused a 
 dreadful howling through the woods, which in a short 
 time died away, and few more were heard till daylight 
 appeared, \vhich to me was the most glorious light I had 
 ever beheld, as I had but one more ball cast, and no fire 
 or fuel. Between daylight and sunrise I cast about 150 
 balls. We cooked provision for the day, and continued 
 our journey. 
 
 The length of the wolf I had killed was six feet ten 
 inches from the snout to the end of the tail ; the tail 
 measured two feet. It was of a ground colour, with a 
 black list or streak running along the back ; its teeth 
 were long and sharp ; its body was slim and poor, and 
 its ribs distinctly to be seen, shewing its want of food ; 
 its ears were about the length of those of a cur dog. 
 ^ The ball liad struck him in the breast, and passed through 
 liis vitals» 
 
KER^ TRAVELS. 109 
 
 January 1 1th. Passed through an extensive tract of 
 open priaries, which afforded neither water nor provender 
 for our horses. We were about encamping for the night 
 without either, or even fuel to make a fire ; but consider- 
 ing the danger we had passed the night before, and that 
 our situation could not be worse, we still pursued our 
 course, and a little in the evening discovered a fog arising 
 on our right. This I knew must proceed from low wet 
 ground, or from a pond. Our horses seemed anxious 
 and impatient, we gave them the reins, and in the space 
 of half an hour they brought us on the margin of a small 
 creek, into which they plungeH and satisfied their thirst, 
 as we did also our own. 
 
 We here saw fresh Indian signs ; a deer having been 
 dressed on the opposite side of the creek, gave us the 
 strongest suspicion. We thought it prudent to keep 
 watch during the night, as we dreaded the clandestine vi- 
 sits of savages more than that of the wolves the preceding 
 night. We made but a small fire, and kept our horses 
 near us. During the night I heard the distant echo of an . 
 Indian voice, after which all was silent till daylight. 
 
 On the 12th we had a cold and tedious storm from the 
 southwest. It rained violently, biit I had now become 
 hardened and capable of any fatigue, either from suffering 
 by disappointment, bodily labour, or exposure to the^ 
 changing seasons and nightly dews — to all, my constitii*- ' 
 tion had become inured. 
 
 We had now come to an old Indian camp ; some of 
 the huts were still remaining. The heavy rains compell- 
 ed us to stop here : we found a plenty of Spanish moss 
 for provender, and repaired to one of the huts, which we 
 made to answer a good purpose by spreading our oil 
 rlotlTS over it. Towiurds evening the storm abated, and 
 
110 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 Edom • expressed a desire to go out and try his skill in 
 shooting for game : to this I consented, as we were near- 
 ly out of provision, having none of the bread kind left, 
 Edom returned a little after sunset, with a rackoon and 
 Itirgc tortoise, which he had taken near a sw^amp. These 
 we diessed and dried. 
 
 Jan. 15th. We crossed a considerable stream running 
 a northeasterly course, which I supposed to be one of the 
 branches of the Red river. Here we were detained for 
 some time in making a small wicker raft, in ^vhich we 
 took our equipage safe across, and then returned and 
 swam our horses over. This stream is about fift;^ yards 
 wide, and runs very rapidly, its course being much bro- 
 ken by rocks, and is very deep. 
 
 Continuing our course west southwest until die 20th 
 of January, the mountains**began to appear conspicuous, 
 gently raising their blue summits one above another until 
 met by the sky. Game, (which was our only dependence 
 for subsistence,) we found not to be so plenty as we had 
 before. 
 
 Our prospects were truly pleasing in going over these 
 ridges, especially as we surmoimted the last one to\A^ards 
 the ^vest that we could observe. On this, one could pcr- 
 cei\'e by turning round, a sugar loaf peak ; a naked sum- 
 mit of rocks, with tailing cascades ; an extensive priarie.; 
 a wild forest ; pleasant vallies — and in short, every thing 
 romantic, sublime, ^^ ild, and solitary. 
 
 During our painful tour over tliese hills we killed a 
 bear, catamount, and wild hog ; though deer, buffalo, and 
 the like, are seldom seen. Tlirough these ridges are vast 
 quantities of iron ore, copper, and some silver — but the 
 principal bed is iron, laying quite bare in many placeSt 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. Ill 
 
 Here my compass refused to obey its polarity, and gave 
 way on every side as attraction excited. 
 
 We had on the last of this month reached the last emi- 
 nence. The thermometer stood at 63"" 25' at 12 o'clock. 
 Immediately on our course I discovered an extensive 
 opening, and on a nearer ken witli my glass, I found it to 
 be a priarie, and could distinguish cattle in abundance 
 feeding upon the plains. We pursued our course, and 
 in the evening found to our great pleasure a settlement of 
 Spanish and Indians. There were but few houses, and 
 those much scattered. Our appearance being somewhat 
 singular, gave a sudden surprise to an Indian belonging 
 to a house we first rode up to ; but making myself known 
 as well as I could, I was immediately conducted to a 
 Spaniard's house. I was truly glad to see him, and he 
 as much astonished to see a regular traveller through this 
 country. I alighted, and after giving him a short detail 
 of my journey he insisted on our staying with them a few 
 days to recruit our horses, and rest ourselves, to which I 
 most willingly consented. Our horses were turned out 
 at large with theirs on the priaries. The kind host re- 
 galed us with a good supper, or good for a wilderness 
 country ; it consisted of ash cake, venison, and bear's 
 meat, besides coffee. I never ate \vith more satisfaction. 
 
 Next morning and a part of the day were spent in con- 
 versation, in which he related to me his proceedings, and 
 the cause of his settling in so remote a part of the country. 
 His narrative was as follows : 
 
 That himself and the others that came with him had 
 been brought thither, or near the place in which he now 
 lived ; that his father, widi several others, had escaped the 
 convulsions in 177P, in which the famous city of Guati- 
 mala was destroyed; that a fev/ families lived on a 
 
112 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 mountain situated about nine miles cast of tlie vale m 
 which the principal to^v^l stood, employed in tlie business 
 of cuttiui; timber. For several days previous to tliat 
 drL\idt\il CNcnt, (as he had been inlbrnied by his fatlier,) 
 tlieiv Mas something in the a])pearanee of natinv that 
 boded notliing gocxl : a sullen stillness prevailed ; the air 
 seemed to be in a state of stagnation ; tlie aniniiil creation 
 was in aA\liil distress ; some fowls were throA\ n into con- 
 A'ulsions ; tlie sun an as scarcely n isible^ and nature seem- 
 ed to have changx^d its appearance, and, lulled to sleep, 
 to be resting on the brink of destruction. On the 20di 
 of June, about ten o'clock, the air seemed to be filled 
 widi dusty fragments ; fowls of e\ er}' description huddled 
 in flocks together, and die beasts howled witli horror. 
 An awful din commenced that rumbled alono* the vale, 
 imd was succeeded by Repeated shocks : tixes, hills, 
 houses, man, and beast, could no longvr maintain an erect 
 posture, but fell prostrate, confessing dieir weakness by 
 repeated cries for mercy. Ancient and modern history 
 fall far short of an instance so tcirible, rendered more so 
 by liaA'ing a warning, and the harbingvr of desolation pre- 
 sented in e>'er\- object. .\ dismal roll swept along the 
 chaos, and suddenly the atmosphere was chiuigx^d, app;\- 
 rently in die horizon towards the city ; alas ! die city was 
 no more, its ruins floated in the air :^ the third shock, with 
 a dreadful crash, tenninated the existence of Guatimaku 
 Our mountain A\as in an awful suspense, vibrating, 
 shaking its basis, and opening large ca>ities on its sur- 
 lace. The night w as dark and solemnly still, excepting 
 the interAals of a dixadful roar. The eiutli seeniexl to be 
 jxiined with con> ulsions for several days togedier, and for 
 months after diey w ould feel slight shocks of eardiquakes, 
 w hich was the cause of their leaving that countr} . They 
 
 ""'^W ' 
 
KER\S TRAVELS. 113 
 
 had settled several times, and were disturbed by the In- 
 dians : at leni^th, after many painful years, they had ar- 
 rived where they now were, near a tribe of Indians ealled 
 tile Parathees, who inhabit a fine traet of eountry on both 
 sides of a eonsiderable stream of water. Their land was 
 fertile, and they were likely to live in peace and plenty. 
 They all had Indian wives except one, Whose wife had 
 died in consecjuence of the excessive fatigue they en- 
 dured for several years together in a wilderness country. 
 They had some land clctired which bore com in great 
 plenty, and had formed a resolution to remain here for life. 
 They have many horses, which they use in hunting the 
 elk. During ftiy stay the weather proved very rainy, and 
 the travelling would have been very tedious. I here pro- 
 cured some wine of a pleasant taste, made by them from 
 an excellent grape. They had a species of the cocoa-nut 
 which afforded much flavour, though not to be compared 
 with those of the southern islands for size nor taste. 
 
 The climate of this country is not surpassed by that of 
 any on the continent, either for mildness, or heat ; and on 
 the elevated situation of high mountains the snow lies dur- 
 ing the year. The maritime places are extremely hot ; 
 owing to their low situation, all vapours of heat driven 
 from colder regions settle here, and render the summer 
 season quite unpleasant. But in latitudes from 29 to 40" 
 north, the climate is pleasant and delightful, being fanned 
 by cooling breezes, which waft along the atmosphere, and 
 salute every pleasant vale and ascent with the blessing of 
 peace and harmony, quiet from cultivation, and CJijoying 
 the sublime sweets of a natural state. 
 
 We have tp regret that a set of arbitrary Ijcings ha\ c 
 
 p(tescssion of a land which might be of much worth to a 
 
 civilized peoj)lc. 'i'heir extensive kingdom is their prin- 
 
 15 
 
114 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 cipal boast : they indulge in indolence and dissipation, 
 being supported by their rich mines of gold and silver. 
 Though sunk in ignorance and superstition, they boast of 
 their abilities, and in many instances rank themselves with 
 a superior class of beings. Their ideas are led to an ex- 
 travagant height by their being so particularly favoured 
 by their gods in being thus situated in a land of riches, 
 while tlie neighbouring countries are in a state of igno- 
 rance respecting their vast wealth, supposing them not 
 even to enjoy happiness without a mine of gold at their 
 very doors. Mistaken people, you are sunk in oblivion, 
 and do not even enjoy the social benefits of society and 
 friendship amongst mankind ; you have wealtli, but you 
 do not know how to enjoy it ; you have the finest coun- 
 try in the world, but you will not cultivate it ; you have 
 noble streams of water, but they envy your weight on 
 tlieir bosom, and only rejoice to bear your riches to en- 
 lightened kingdoms, where it is distributed for the use of 
 mankind. If you would open your hearts and hands to 
 a free intercourse, and live as Christians ought to live, 
 you might enjoy happiness ; if you would distribute 
 your gold for ample returns of merchandize, you might 
 live respected, and be no more perplexed ^vith envious 
 people, who court you for your treasures, while diey 
 despise you for your pnnciples. 
 
 ^W■ 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 11/5 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 The author leaves the settlement and proeeeds on his jour- 
 ney — Useful directions received from the settlers — 
 Difficulties in crossing the river Gagundo — Alligators 
 — Beauty and grandeur of the forests — Imminent dan- 
 ger of the author — Dangerous night from the wild 
 heasts — Meet a tribe of Indians — Misconduct of my 
 negro — His distress and sorrow — Description of the 
 Badies — Author goes on a beaver hunt — His perilous 
 ^ iSitication — Arrival at the camp of the chief of the 
 Badies — Determination of the chief to keep my negro 
 — Distress of my negro — Gcneral\emarks on the na- 
 ture of the savages — Obtain my negro'' s liberty bt/M 
 singular expedient. 
 
 About the 10th of February we again started, having 
 exchanged horses with the settlors, and provided good 
 saddles, and taking as much provision as we could con- 
 veniently carry, with the rest of our load. Our horses 
 travelled free. I got directions for the best and nearest 
 way towards the city of Mexico, which place I was dc- 
 lermfned to visit. Our course was to be west for about 
 200 miles, then southwest until we reached a large clus- 
 ter of mountains ; we were then to steer south, in which 
 course we should find the Spanish settlements. At the 
 same time we were warned of the dangers to which ^ve 
 should be exposed, both from savage men and beasts ; 
 but this news did not shock me, for I had the worst of 
 deaths already painted in my imagination. I feared morr 
 
116 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 from inundations in the spring season, than from the in- 
 habitants. 
 
 For several days we proceeded without much inter- 
 ruption, except that of crossing some large creeks, which 
 were not fordable ; but when we came to a rapid river, 
 called the Gagundo, we were much perplexed in finding 
 means to cross it, and in the attempt, my negro's horse 
 and part of our provisions were lost. The stream was 
 about 300 yards wide, and ran more rapid than I ima- 
 gined. We procured several sticks of timber of a proper 
 size, of which we made a raft ; but on getting our things 
 on board and shoving off, ^ve were carried down with 
 such velocity that it was impossible to set across, although 
 we could* easily reach bottom with our poles, the water 
 being only about six feet deep. We got about half way 
 across, and found it unsafe to proceed, on account of 
 some rocks we discovered below, against which we were 
 in danger of being carried by the rapidity of the current. 
 We just passed the breakers, and were glad to come on 
 shore on the same side from whence we started, about half 
 a mile below. I then sent Edom up for one of the 
 horses, and having put our provision on his back, we 
 returned to our first fording place. Chagrined with this 
 useless labour, I determined to swim the horses across : 
 I took all my ammunition, and aiticles it was necessary 
 to keep dry, and bound them to my head and shoulders, 
 and entered, directing my negro to remain till I should 
 get safe over, and then to follow. In crossing, my horse 
 had many struggles, sometimes touching bottom, and 
 sometimes falling into deep channels ; but at length I 
 got safe across. I now beckoned for Edom, who had 
 with him our provision. After he had got within about 
 an hundred yards of me, his horse stumbled and fell on 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 117 
 
 his side, with Edom, provision, and all : Edom soon 
 recovered himself, and caught a part of the provision ; 
 but the horse, getting his feet entangled in the bridle, was 
 unable to recover, and soon drowned. After struggling 
 for some time, my poor negro got safe ashore, much 
 troubled for the loss of his horse. I comforted him by 
 saying it was a rough passage and dangerous under- 
 taking, and told him I had rather lose both the horses 
 tlian my rifle, which he had saved ; in fact, I was well 
 pleased it was no worse. 
 
 We here encamped, having spent the greatest part of 
 the day in making a raft and crossing. We dried 
 those things that were wet, looking well to the rifle, 
 and cleaning and loading it. My poor negro seemed 
 much disheartened, expecting he should have to ponder 
 his way through the wilderness on foot. During this 
 night I saw a glimmer of light some distance down the 
 stream, and could not imagine what it might be ; how- 
 ever, the next day our curiosity was gratified, for by 
 altering our course in order to escape a pond of ^vater, 
 and travelling some distance down the river, we beheld 
 the same tree we had set on fire the preceding day at 9 
 o'clock, being not more than 700 yards from the river, 
 on the opposite side. We had now got quite round this 
 pond on tlie northeast side. The sun shone very warm, 
 and numerous alligators were seen ; some of them were 
 of a large size mid length ; they lay basking in the sun, 
 and seemed not to move at our approach. Our horses 
 were very shy, not being habituated to them. The smell 
 of the alligator is very disagi'eeable ; it is between that of 
 the musk and the polecat. As they lie thus basking in 
 the sun, they throw open their upper jaw, which forms a 
 right angle with the lower one ; in this manner they lie as 
 
118 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 if tliey were lifeless until a sufficient quantity of insects, 
 bugs, and the like, are collected within their peaceful 
 jaws ; then suddenly dropping the jaw, they enclose their 
 prey and swallow them whole. The great strength of 
 their nature enables them to digest even poison. The 
 younger ones are often destroyed by the catamount, and 
 other beasts of prey ; many are likewise devoured by the 
 larger alligators, and thus nature has provided a way to 
 clestroy these dangerous beasts, and keep their number 
 down, which would otherwise render the country unin- 
 habitable. 
 
 We this day pursued our journey, and the weather 
 proved mild. At 12 o'clock we were in front of an un- 
 commonly large growth of timber, at the entrance of which 
 we encamped for the remainder of the day and night, in 
 order to procure some provisions. Finding plenty of 
 provender for our horse, we let him run at large, putting 
 a bell on his neck. 
 
 I took my rifle and entered the shady recesses of the 
 forest. The sycamore, the buck-eye, the oak, the hick- 
 ory, and the chesnut, rose in beauty and magnificence. 
 An uncommonly large sycamore excited my curiosity, 
 which, on surveying, I found to be sixty-nine feet in cir- 
 cumference, making its diameter nearly twenty-three feet. 
 Although this may appear incredible, I have been inform- 
 ed that they are sometimes found much larger. 
 
 I had proceeded some distance in this beautiful wood, 
 when I discovered a small gro^vth of hickories on a little 
 rise of ground, which appeared alive with something ; 
 and on neai^er approach, I found them to be squirrels of 
 an uncommon size, amongst which were the black, the 
 large cat, and the gray squirrels. There was no necessity 
 of firing at them, for I soon heard a deer rustling through 
 
KER^S TRAYEL9. 119 
 
 (he leaves at some distance from me. Hardly knowing 
 which way to turn myself, or \vhat to shoot at, I stood 
 motionless by the side of a chesnut tree, when I saw a 
 large buck walking up with much assurance towards the 
 place where I stood. He approached within ten rods of 
 me, when I let fly at him, and had the mortification to 
 see him fall only half dead. He soon recovered, and, 
 springing upon his feet, bounded off a few paces. I step- 
 ped out to reload, by which means I was discovered ; 
 when, racking with pain, and with rage sparkling in his 
 eyes, he sprang towards me : I had the ball about half 
 way down, and the ramrod still in my rifle ; in this situ- 
 ation I cocked, and had just time to raise and fire off* my 
 piece, before he reached me : the ramrod and ball enter- 
 ed his breast, and brought him to the ground, as well as 
 myself; for the sudden passage of the fire being stopped 
 when it reached the ball, which was extremely tight, pro- 
 duced such a shock that I fell, and knew not for some 
 time whether the fall was occasioned by my gun or the 
 beast. However, on my recovering I found him just 
 breathing his last. The echoing report of two guns in 
 so short a time, soon brought my faithful negro with 
 both the pistols, he supposing that I was engaged with 
 Indians. 
 
 We lugged the game to our encampment, and cook- 
 ed some of it : this brought us in a dreadful situa- 
 tion, for we were now surrounded with wolves, eager for 
 their prey, and I repented having let at large my faithful 
 horse. I kindled a large fire and gathered a quantity of 
 fuel, and soon my horse came trotting up, and frisking 
 with pleasure, as if safe with us, and near a fire. This 
 night the wild beasts seemed to hover round us by hun- 
 dreds, and I feared I should exhaust my small store of 
 
120 KER'S TRAVELS, 
 
 fuel before daylight appeared. I was under the necessity 
 of lavishing out my little stock of provisions. The deer 
 which I had killed I cut up in small pieces, and at the 
 near approach of the wolves, would heave it to them ; this 
 seemed to satisfy them but for a few moments ; I then 
 tlirew fire brands at them, which seemed only to increase 
 their rage, while it extinguished my fire. I now made 
 two large fires, which had a good effect ; several still kept 
 round us, but approached no nearer than the circle of 
 light which shone with brilliancy from our fire. 
 
 Next morning we again packed up, and started for- 
 ward. This day's travel was rendered very tedious by 
 reason of a large tract of swampy land. Having got 
 quite dirough the swamp we fell into a small trace of a foot 
 path, which unexpectedly came in our way, and created 
 within me some suspicion that we were in the neighbour- 
 hood of savages ; I determined however to keep the path. 
 We encamped a litde after dark. Soon after, my negro, 
 who had been gathering fuel, hastily returned, informing 
 me that at no great distance he saw a fire, and that he 
 also saw several men standing around it. I went to the 
 spot from whence he had seen them, and soon found that 
 they were savages. I now knew not whether to go to 
 them, or to remain where I was ; but concluding that 
 they w^ould see our fire, and might steal a march upon us 
 and plunder us, and then make their escape in the woods, 
 and on the other hand that if I went boldly up to them I 
 might be well received, I resolved to go directly to them. 
 Accordingly we repaired towards the fire, where I found 
 several Indians who were totally naked. I had approached 
 within fifty yards of them undiscovered, and stood still, 
 not knowing in what manner I should inti'oduce myself. 
 At length I began a conversation wdth my negro so loud 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 121 
 
 that they might hear it ; this alarmed them, and several 
 sprang upon their feet who had been laying down, and 
 whom I had not seen before ; they were looking and 
 peaking in every direction. I still continued my conver- 
 sation with my negro, at the same time moving towards 
 them. My negro, being on foot, kept close to my side. 
 At length they got sight of my horse, which was white. 
 They began jabbering, and I could hear them pronounce 
 in a broken voice, Spaniard. I rode quite up to the 
 fire, and the little pappooses ran behind their mothers. 
 After dismounting; I presented my hand, which they all 
 took in rotation ; but they seemed rather shy of my jet 
 black negro, who offered his hand ; they were cautious, 
 and would hardly touch it. I made them to understand 
 that I was their brother, by laying my hand oh my left 
 breast. I made them understand by signs that my horse 
 was hungry, and one or two of the squaws were immedi- 
 ately sent away ; they soon returned, bringing with them 
 some young corn and Spanish moss, which my horse ate 
 very well. They presented us with some fruit not unlike 
 our crab-apple in appearance, but which had the taste of 
 a raspberry. I took out some of my venison and began 
 to eat, and discovermg by their actions that they had got 
 none, I equally divided my little store among them ; with 
 this they seemed much pleased. 
 
 I spake a few words in Spanish, and was answered by ' 
 a very old ifian, who spoke so distinctly that it rendered 
 our conversation quite easy. He made strict enquiry re- 
 specting the course I had come, and whither I was going. 
 I answered all his questions with as much ease as possi- 
 ble, and seemed not to be concerned with regard to my 
 situation. They appeared suspicious when I told them 
 I was exploring the country : they would look at c;tch 
 
 16 
 
122 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 other, then at me, and then at my horse : I immediately 
 added, that I ^vas bound to Mexico to see my friends. 
 We were treated with coldness during the night. They 
 invited us to lay do^vn with them by their fire : we ac- 
 cepted the invitation, and my negro slept well, having 
 had but little rest the night before, on account of the 
 wolves. About four o'clock in the m.orning 1 awaked 
 Edom, and after bidding him not to close his eyes again, 
 soon fell asleep, and did not av/ake until I heard my 
 horse trotting by me : I sprang up, and found a young 
 Indian on the horse, and his father leading him, who 
 made signs that he only wanted to amuse his boy. I 
 found Edom asleep ; but the past fatigues having worn 
 him down, I let him remain. He awaked about sunrise^ 
 and instantly remembering my caution, begged pardon- 
 for his offence. The horse being out of sight, and some 
 of the Indians having gone, knowing the whole of the 
 proceedings, I very coolly asked him where my horse 
 ivas, pretending I had just awoke. In an instant his eye 
 was on ever}' side, but no horse could he discover. I 
 had laid my rifle and ammunition under some skins, and 
 asked him where my rifle was, affecting a look of despair. 
 The poor negro fell on the ground and begged me to kill 
 him, at the same time adding, that if I Avould spare his life 
 he would never sleep again on such an occasion. He be- 
 ing my only friend, and knowing his honesty, and that 
 excessive fatigue had been the occasion of his present ^ 
 misconduct, I pardoned him, but not without telling him 
 the consequences of being unwatchful at such a time. 
 
 The Indians having returned with my horse, I began 
 to make enquiiy with respect to their nation. They in- 
 foi'med me that they were called by the Spaniards the 
 Badies, or in their own tongue the Quasmigdo tribe^ and 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 123 
 
 that their nation was very powerful ; that they had been 
 sent hither for the purpose of hunting, and had that day 
 arrived ; that their brethren Uved about two days journey 
 towards the setting sun ; that their chief was a very big 
 man, and a great warrior. 
 
 I found their principal weapons to be i^ows and arrov/s, 
 the arrows pointed with copper : they ha^'e also spears 
 pointed with deer's horn, which are about ten feet long ; 
 these they throw in the manner of a javelin. They have 
 but few knives, which they use principally in dressing 
 their game. These people are very fond of music and 
 dancing. Their principal way of hunting is by ensnaring 
 their game, in which they are very artful : not only the 
 men, but the women have various ways by which they 
 entice them, sometimes in pens built for that purpose, 
 which are made of cane entwined together. 
 
 We had been with them for some time, and saw many 
 of their manoeuvres, which had no other effect than to 
 give us a proper idea of Indian manners. Their dexter- 
 ity on foot is very surprising. 
 
 One morning they brought wibh them to the camp a 
 number of skins, and amongst the rest some beavers : it 
 was now my determination to visit the pond or lake, in 
 which they said they caught them. Next morning I 
 started^ leaving my negro behind, with the goods and 
 horse. I was during the day impressed a^ ith a strong 
 idea that all wiiR not right at the camp. We killed some 
 deer and beavers, and at about ten o'clock in the eve- 
 ning returned ; but alas ! I missed my faithful negro. I 
 stood speechless for some time, and flattered myself with 
 the hope that he would soon return ; but the two Indians 
 which were left at the camp were also gone, and all my 
 equipments. I spoke at first in a vehement rage, but 
 
424 KER^S TRAVELS. 
 
 was pacified by having an arrow pointed at my breast : I 
 cocked my gun, Avhich greatly terrified the poor fellow 
 that was about letting loose at me. I was told, however, 
 that it was useless to resist, as I should be overpowered 
 by numbers, and that the next day I was to accompany 
 *hem to their chief, who was about tw^o days' journey off. 
 I at first refused to go ; but when they informed me that 
 my negro and horse had gone thither, I consented. The 
 next morning we set out, and in about an hour came to a 
 considerable stream, where the savages had bark canoes ; 
 in these we descended the river until about sunset, when 
 we came to an encampment of several Indians and squaws, 
 who had also been on the business of hunting. The 
 Indians had much conversation together, occasionally 
 looking at me, and then continuing their conversation 
 with repeated shouts of victory. Judge of my feelings in 
 the situation in which I then was ; they had taken from 
 me my gun and pistols, and had tied my hands behind 
 me : in this situation I next morning began to descend 
 the river. One of the Indians was shockingly mangled 
 by means of one of my pistols, with which he was play- 
 ing : while looking very earnestly at the bore of the pis- 
 tol, and playing with his fingers about the trigger, being 
 cocked, it went off, and its contents tore away his left 
 cheek, and shockingly mangled his face. At this, he im- 
 mediately threw the pistol into the river, and fiiinted away. 
 I was in hopes it had killed him, or wounded him mor- 
 tally, at the same time fearing lest I should be held ac- 
 countable for the deed ; but they must know me to be 
 innocent, as I was sitting in the boat with my hands tied 
 behind me. 
 
 At the report of the pistol repeated shrieks re-echoed 
 from e\'ery quarter, and I Avas soon surrounded bV several 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 125 
 
 canoes ; but on examination they found he had committed 
 the act with his own hands. An old man then took my 
 rifle and the other pistol in his boat, and left an ugly 
 squaw to row my boat and nurse the wounded man. I 
 sat in a very resdess state, expecting to undergo some 
 torture for the accident which had happened. 
 
 In the afterpart of the day I found this stream opened 
 into a kind of lake. An island appeared in the centre, 
 surrounded by water of no great width. The sun was 
 just setting, and all nature had a mournful appearance. 
 I saw a smoke at a distance through the opening, and on 
 the island and shores I discovered a crowd of people, 
 eager to see a white man. 
 
 For near two hours were these two parties yelling, be- 
 ing answered by each other, and keeping up a continual 
 noise. Having got within a quarter of a mile of the par- 
 ty on shore, I saw my white horse standing in the midst 
 of a multitude of savages. 
 
 At length we reached the shore, and I was untied and 
 led before the big man ; in reality he was lai'ge enough 
 for a giant : I judged him to be at least seven feet two 
 inches in height, and he was suitably proportioned. He 
 gave shrieks of joy at having such strange looking ani- 
 mals as myself and negro in his power ; but ^vhen the 
 wounded man that had shot himself was brought before 
 him, I could compare his yells to nothing else than bro- 
 ken thunder. The man that was shot proved to be his 
 brother's son ; the cause was explained to him, and he 
 was reconciled towards me. 
 
 On my first landing I saw my negro tied fast to a tree, 
 and he began to cry horribly, his sighs rending the air. 
 I addressed myself to one whc understood Spanish, and 
 requested him to speak in the negro's behalf, which he 
 
125 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 did without hesitation ; but soon returned v^dth an answer 
 that the chief had taken a paiticular hking to him, and he 
 privately informed me that it would be difficult for me to 
 get him away. The idea of losing my faithful negro 
 created a sudden anxiety, which was soon turned to de- 
 pression of spirit. 
 
 I was now stripped and searched, having all my clothes, 
 my shirt excepted, taken off : fortunately riiey missed my 
 little fortune, which I had concealed in a band around me, 
 it being in gold. They gave me my clothes and return- 
 ed to me my horse, the chief at the same time telling me 
 I was at liberty : they also restored to me my gun and 
 other equipments, the lost pistol excepted. I asked if 
 my black man was also at liberty, but was answered in 
 the negative. I then asked them if I could remain in 
 their nation long enough to procure some provision, and 
 recruit my horse: they told me that was repugnant to 
 the chief's wishes ; however they consented, making me 
 promise not to have any communication with the black 
 man, whom the chief boldly said he meant to keep. I 
 had noAv nothing to do but wait with as much patience 
 as possible, hoping that by some means I should be able 
 to rescue my Edom from a life of wretchedness and mis- 
 ery among savages, who would perhaps treat him with 
 contempt, and keep him in slavery. But I was informed 
 that they thought him far superior to white men, in con- 
 sequence of his being black : they supposed him to be 
 made of a superior quality of clay, and that the red clay 
 men ranked next ; but the white men they thought were 
 made of the poorest kind of clay, and that the Great 
 Spirit, after he had made them, had pity on them and 
 gave them learning, but would not bestow it upon black 
 and red men, because they were pure and spotless as they 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 127 
 
 were first made. The white men, they said, had polluted 
 themselves, and their learning had been a great evil 
 amongst all nations and kindreds of people. They be- 
 lieved that the red men would yet be blessed with all 
 the good stores of nature, and have dominion over all 
 the countiy, and that the slaves would be all set at liber- 
 ty. I soon grew wear}^ of this conversation. 
 
 My poor negro, by some means, got information of 
 their proceedings, and was almost mad with rage and de- 
 spair : the dreadfid apprehension of being again in slave- 
 ry, caused him to vent his anguish and threats against the 
 savages, which provoked them to such a degree that a 
 council was held concerning him. He was yet confined, 
 and by an interpreter he was informed, that if he would 
 stay with them and marry a squaw, he should be happy ; 
 at the same time he was given to understand, that in case 
 of a refusal, he would be tortured to death. He firmly 
 refused a compliance, and another council was held, by 
 which it was determined to try the effect of torture. No 
 one could describe the anguish that filled my breast, on 
 seeing my faithful Edom led out by this big monster, the 
 chief, to have his fortitude tried. Having led him to the 
 appointed place, they stripped him naked and tied him to 
 a tree; they then sheared off* his wool close to his head, 
 and the infernal torture then began by throwing hot em- 
 bers on his bare skull, notwithstanding his lamentations 
 and my entreaties : they also threatened me with condign 
 punishment if I said any thing more in his behalf. In 
 this way they served him, for no other crime than that of 
 being faidiful to me. They now desisted for a few mo- 
 ments, and asking Edom if he would yet consent to stay, 
 he answered, that if they would spare his life he would 
 
128 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 live with them and serve them. His head was sorely 
 scorched by these infernal monsters. 
 
 I now began to lose all hopes of regaining his liberty, 
 and concluded to pursue my journey alone, but not with- 
 out regret. These Indians are a cruel race of people, 
 whose only wish is to gratify their own desires : their 
 hearts are unfeeling towards the wretched victims who 
 have the misfortune to be placed within the reach of their 
 power. A few days passed on in anxious suspense, when 
 by a kind providence it was removed by critical means, 
 and such as would cause a feeling heart to shudder. 
 
 We had been with them about seven days ; the man 
 who had wounded himself with my pistol began to re- 
 cover, and they were fitting out another hunting party ; 
 at the same time I was making preparations to go, and my 
 poor negro overwhelmed at the idea of parting, and being 
 left in a place so wretched and forlorn. My gun having 
 been charged some time, I drew oflf the load and put in 
 fresh powder. While this was doing I found they were 
 holding a council, and seemed very much agitated ; at 
 length, to my no little surprise I found myself surrounded, 
 and was quickly disarmed, and at the same instant was 
 informed that unless I would agree to one proposal, they 
 would never let me go out of the nation. After being 
 so cruelly treated, what heart could endure their hellish 
 provocations, and thus tormenting one or two who had 
 fallen into their power ; I quickly demanded of them to 
 pronounce the proposal. They told me all strife was 
 useless, and that the proposal was to have a turtle's egg 
 placed on my head, and let my negro shoot it off at 
 twenty yards distance. As my negro knew nothing of 
 drawing a precise sight, I hesitated, and told, them I 
 would reverse it, and shoot the t egg from the negro's 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 129 
 
 head. By this expedient I obtained my Uberty, together 
 with that of my negro ; for, taking it for granted that I 
 should kill him, they readily consented to my proposal. 
 They tied Edom to a tree, and measured off twenty steps ; 
 but thinking this not far enough, they measured ten more. 
 From this distance I was directed to fire, all things being 
 in readiness ; my enervated hands began to tremble, and 
 I was uncertain jvhether I should accomplish my design 
 or not. My negro requested me not^to be affected, and 
 said that if I should be so unfortunate as to shoot too low, 
 it would be a satisfaction to be put out of his miserable 
 existence by me, rather than by those hideous monsters, 
 who stood ready with dieir bows and arrows to despatch 
 me, if I refused to comply. The tgg was about the size 
 of a goose egg, but rather longer. Thus t^y^oor fellow 
 stood at the distance of thirty paces from me, an object of 
 savage barbarity. I once raised the instrument of death, 
 but my hands trembled and I let it drop ; again, and again 
 I raised it, in order to decide. The victim stood in . 
 awful suspense, awaiting the crisis which should set him 
 at liberty, or take him out of existence. At length, 
 summoning up all my courage, I levelled my rifle with as 
 much deliberation and exactness as possible, and as a 
 wise providence would have it, cut the egg on the lower 
 side, taking the skin off his poor scorched head. With 
 an exultation which nothing but preservation from the 
 worst of deaths could have excited, he cried out, God 
 bless you master : and at the same time the natives stood 
 speechless whh amazement, and seemed to feel sensible 
 of their own cruelty towards one who had never done 
 them an injury. 
 
 My horse was brought me, with all my equipage, and 
 I again mounted and set off towaids Mexico, not without 
 
 17 
 
130 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 having obtained a general description of their nation.. 
 What most excited my astonishment was the extravagant 
 size and great strength of the chief. All his people fear 
 him, for being arbitrary in his laws, he would frequently 
 put to death with his own hands, criminals who Averc 
 falsely accused, without judge or jury. 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Joy ofEdom at his escape from the savages — Salt springs- 
 — BeneJ^fresulting to the United States from the man- 
 ufacture of salt — iuthor kills a large snak e-^De scrip - 
 tion of it — Violent storm — Tracks of Indians — Indian 
 hunting camp — Author loses his rifle — Fruitless en- 
 deavours to obtain it — Sets out to visit the Indian town^ 
 
 My poor negro was overwhelmed with gratitude, at his 
 unexpected liberation from a nation of such ferocious 
 wretches ; indeed the fellow had taken such a liking 
 to me, that he preferred death to a separation. We im- 
 mediately commenced our journey,, and I had abundant 
 cause to be thankful that nothing worse had happened. 
 I had lost some few articles, but the bulk of my property 
 was still safe. 
 
 After pursuing our journey for about four miles, we 
 came to an extensive prairie, covered with a whitish sub- 
 stance ; upon a nearer examination I found it to be salt, 
 and that there were three springs whose waters were as 
 salt as any I had ever tasted. I judged that 10.000^ 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 131 
 
 bushels of salt might be made from these sprhigs in one 
 ^veek ; and when we consider the high price it bears at 
 market, averaging from 90 to 100 cents per bushel, it 
 would surely be an object of vast importance to the 
 United States, and well \vorthy the attention of men of 
 cnterprize, to engage in the manufacture of an article 
 which is in such general demand. 
 
 The maritime part of the United States will, undoubt- 
 edly, procure their salt from the Islands, and other places 
 from whence they have been in the habit of receiving it ; 
 but a large proportion of our inland country, say two 
 thirds of the United States, might be supplied from the 
 interior, and that too with salt of a superior quality, and 
 on more reasonable terms than it can be had elsewhere ; 
 a capital of six or eight thousand dollars vmuld be suffi- 
 cient, and the country is so abundant that it^umishes all 
 the necessaries and many of tlie luxuries of life, almost 
 spontaneously. 
 
 We proceeded but slowly along, owing to the extreme 
 ^veakness of my negro, whose head, and many other 
 parts of his body w^ere very sore and painful ; he however 
 refused to lie by entirely. We encamped this night near 
 a small M'ivulet which was plentifully surrpunded with 
 thick long grass, which was very serviceable, not only as 
 food for our horse, but as a pleasant bed ; the wild Beasts 
 were not so troublesome as formerly, and we slept soundly 
 until the shrill and pleasant notes of the birds awaked us 
 from our slumber. We immediately ai'ose, and after 
 taking a slight breakfast, again pursued our journey. 
 
 We now entered a thick and almost impenetrable 
 forest, and it ^vas with extreme difficulty we forced our 
 w^ay through it ; this difficulty ^vas increased by the \'ast 
 numcfers of reptiles, which were very troublesome. A 
 
132 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 species of snake I had not before seen attracted my atten- 
 tion, and caused me to take particular notice of it. It 
 darted with rapidity from tree to tree, and seemed to be 
 of an enormous size. I ordered Edom to walk behind 
 the horse, and to carry my pistol and a long pole which I 
 used as a spear, whilst I continued on the horse and 
 M'atched the monster with my rifle, ready to bring him 
 do^vn. In a few minutes he attempted to ascend a mag- 
 nolia, whose trunk being clear of branches, I had a fair 
 opportunity to shoot him. I fired, and brought him to 
 the ground : my negro advanced, and perceiving him 
 still alive, dispatched him with his spear. The ball en- 
 tered his neck, and passed entirely through him. It was 
 the largest snake I ever saw, measuring thirty -eight feet 
 in length. |P)is snake is called by Mr. Pernaut the large 
 spotted snake, very likely from the number of small spots 
 on his body. I took the skin off and preserved it : it was 
 of a dusky ^vhite colour, the back interspersed with twen- 
 ty-four large pale irregular spots, and the other parts of 
 the body with an infinite number of smaller ones ; the 
 tail is of a dark colour, and the sides are variegated with 
 different colours. The head is covered with small scales, 
 and has a broad belt back of the eyes. It wants the large 
 dog fangs, of course its bite is not poisonous. The 
 tongue is fleshy and forked. Above the eyes, on each' 
 side, the head rises high. The scales of this snake were 
 all very small, roundish, and smooth : the tail does not 
 exceed one eighth of its whole length. The Indians, who 
 adore this monstrous animal, use the skin for clothes, on 
 account of its smoothness and beauty : I saw several of 
 them among the Indians, who assured me they were held 
 in great veneration. The flesh of this snake is eaten by 
 the natives, who esteem it good food. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 133 
 
 The following is the manner in which this animal pro- 
 cures its food : When impelled by liunger, it frequents 
 caves and thickets, from which places it suddenly darts 
 upon travellers, beasts, &c. When it chooses a tree for 
 its watching place, it supports itself by winding its tail 
 around the trunk, or a branch, and darts with rapidity up- 
 on tigers, wolves, and any animal that comes within its 
 reach. When it lays hold of animals, especially any of 
 the larger kinds, it twists itself several times around their 
 body, and by the vast force of its muscles bruises and 
 breaks all their bones. 
 
 The manner in which it prepares its prey for eating is 
 truly singular, and deserves to be inentioned : I had an 
 opportunity to notice it while on a hunting party, some 
 time after this, ^vith the Indians. It first lays it under 
 the shade of somxe tree which it can ascend in case of dan- 
 ger ; it then begins by licking it all over, its tongue being 
 furnished with a peculiar kind of saliva common to these 
 snakes ; this it does for the purpose of facilitating deglu- 
 tition : if it be a stag or any other large animal, it begins 
 by sucking the feet, and gradually sucks in the body, and 
 last of all the head. When the animal happens to have 
 large horns, the natives assert that they have been known 
 to go about a long time with the horns sticking out of 
 their mouth, which, as the animal putrifies, fall off. 
 
 After this animal has swallowed a stag or a tiger, it is 
 unable to move for some days ; and the natives, being well 
 acquainted with this circumstance, always take this op- 
 portunity of destroying it, for it is so very formidable that 
 they dare not attack it at any other time. When irritated, 
 it makes a loud hissing noise. It is said to cover itself 
 over with leaves, in order to conceal itself from other ani- 
 mals, that it may the more easily lay hold of them. The 
 
134 KER'S TRAVELS- 
 
 skin which I took, on my return I presented to Dr. Dc 
 Fkidcar, ^^'ho was much pleased to add it to his already 
 extensive collection of natural curiosities. 
 
 After travelling about twelve miles through tliis thick 
 and almost impenetrable forest, we arrived where it be- 
 came more clear, and were enabled to make greater pro- 
 gress. We encamped by the side of a spring, after hav- 
 ing travelled eighteen miles. 
 
 The next mori:«ng the weather appeared unsettled, and 
 as my water kegs wanted repairing, and some other things 
 of importance Avere to be settled, I tliought it best to re- 
 main Avhere we were. I sent Edom to collect some 
 wood, while I arranged my papers, and secured such 
 things as were of importance, in case I should be attacked. 
 I had hitherto steered a southwest course, as nearly as 
 possible, but now resolved to steer more westerly, as I 
 had understood there a\ ere two tribes of Indians who were 
 friendly, one of which in their manners and dialect resem- 
 bled in some manner the ancient Welch. As this was a 
 subject Avhich agitated the learned, I felt anxious to ascer- 
 t^n the truth of it, and make such discoveries as were. in 
 my power. 
 
 About noon it bagan to rain most violently, accompa- 
 nied with thunder and lightning. My negro iiDW re- 
 turned, bringing such wood as was necessary, and we 
 immediately set about securing our things from the 
 storm ; a small gi'ove of trees was selected, and our 
 awning was accordingly spread, aftbrding us a safe shelter 
 from the rain. Night now set in, and it rained with as 
 much fury as at first ; the lightning gleamed with such 
 brilliancy around as enabled us to see the least article as 
 clear as at noonda}'. The roar of the beasts Avas truly 
 terrible ; whilst the thunder rolled m awful majesty, and 
 
KER^S TRAVELS. 135 
 
 shook the surrounding hills. My mind was settled and 
 tranquil, and I viewed the surrounding scenery with calm- 
 ness ; I felt that I was entirely dependent on the power of 
 a Being who liad declared that he loved mercy, and 
 would protect the wandering fugitive ; I relied with im- 
 plicit confidence on his word, and slept composedly 
 during tlie latter part of the night. 
 
 March 12. In the morning I awoke ; all nature 
 seemed refreshed, the birds sung with sweetest melody, 
 the grove appeared dressed in a more lively green, and I 
 could not help hfting my heart in thankfulness to Him 
 who gives rain, seedtime, and harvest, and^/ho feeds 
 the birds of the air and the beasts of tlieTi^. After 
 fmding my horse, who had strayed some distance from 
 the tent, we packed up and proceeded on our journey. 
 
 We had travelled about six miles, when we came to 
 an opening. I plainly perceived there had been some 
 one recently there, and felt perplexed, for, according to 
 my information, we were more than forty miles from any 
 Indians. If they were of those two tribes which had been 
 described to me, I had nothing to fear ; but if, on the 
 otlier liand, they were hostile Indians, and should treat us 
 in tne manner we were last, I thought it would be better 
 for us to avoid them. Another thing, I did not wish to 
 be detained, as the season was fast approaching when it 
 would be highly improper to travel, owing to the extreme 
 heat. I however proceeded with caution, and found the 
 country become more clear, and die travelling excellent ; 
 about noon I reached an extensive prairie, about fifteen 
 miles in extent, on which was the largest herd of buffalo 
 I ever saw ; I judge there was fifteen hundred all gi'azing 
 in one held, where there was room for as many more. I 
 attempted to get near, but found it impossible, as they 
 
13G KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 haye sentinels placed out, who on the least appearance of 
 danger give the alarm, and they all fly ofF with incredible 
 speed. 
 
 These prairies, which I have had occasion to mention 
 several times, are natural meadows which abound in this 
 country, and are generally covered with a rich luxuriant 
 grass, which is sometimes three or four feet in height ; 
 the land is extremely rich and fertile, and capable of pro- 
 ducing any thing. These prairies feed innumerable herds 
 of buffalo, who roam without restraint, and on the least 
 appearance of danger fly off for the mountains : their speed 
 is very great, it being impossible for the swiftest horse to 
 overtake <wem. 
 
 After striking off from this prairie and pursuing my 
 route along the margin of the wood, I found a large quan- 
 tity of marine shells, which were incorporated with the 
 soil of the bank : the soil was a blue clay, intermixed 
 with small stones. I preserved a number of the shells, 
 as there was no water near, nor any appearance of there 
 having been any. 
 
 About dark we encamped by the side of a small stream, 
 whose borders were clothed with grass, and afforded 
 good grazing for our horse. Here had recently been fires, 
 and I suspected we were not far from the haunts of In- 
 dians. Accordingly I prepared myself, cleaned my rifle 
 and pistol, cast some balls, and took out a fresh supply 
 of ammunition. We had in the course of the day killed 
 a small animal resembling a ground hog, oh which we 
 supped, and found it very good meat. 
 
 Towards morning it grew cold and unpleasant, but 
 when the sun arose it became mild. After breakfasting on 
 the remains of the animal we killed the day before, ^\ e 
 proceeded on our journey. We had not travelled many 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 137 
 
 miles when we struck an Indian path, and I Avas certain 
 from other appearances tliat wc were not far from a set- 
 tlement ; I accordingly slackened my pa^e, in order to have 
 an opportunity of observing the different paths, and of be- 
 ing prepared for the approach of the natives. About t\vo 
 miles we ascended a hill, and I plainly perceived about 
 twenty wigwams ; in a few minutes more, an Indian, \\ ho 
 had been after wood, came close alongside, without at 
 first perceiving me ; the mstant he discovered me he 
 dropped his wood, and fled with precipitation. I felt 
 chagrined to see him make off so fast, and endeavoured 
 by every means in my power to induce him to come 
 back, but in vain ; he was out of sight in an Mstant. I 
 had not the least doubt he would make such a report to 
 his nation as would alarm their fears, and cause them to 
 receive us with coldness ; nor was I much mistaken, for 
 on coming within about a quarter of a mile of the village, 
 I saw them drawn up in battle Jirray, armed with bows, 
 arrows, clubs, and slings. 
 
 I now dismounted from my horse, and advanced alone, 
 telling Edom to remain behind, and in case he sa^v any 
 violence offered to me, to come up and endeavour to 
 assist me. I had my rifle in my hand, but in such a 
 manner as could not excite their fears ; when I came witli- 
 in about an hundred yards of them, I stopped, held out 
 my hand, and addressed them in the Spanish language ; 
 at this they all seemed to confer one with another, and 
 soon one of them, whom I judged from his appearance 
 Avas the chief, advanced a few steps and laid down his 
 club and arrows, beckoning me towards him. I put 
 down my rifle and immediately advanced towards him, 
 but before I had time to speak one word, three or four 
 
 of them rushed forward and seized mv piece. I now ad- - 
 
 18 
 
138 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 dressed myself to the chief, teUing him from whence I 
 came, and demanding my gun, which I told him was all 
 I had to procure victuals with. He seemed to pay no 
 attention to what I said, but laughed immoderately, often 
 patting me on the cheek, and showing signs of great 
 satisfaction. 
 
 During this time, Edom, who had been an unobserved 
 spectator of the scene, advanced with an intention of af- 
 fording me assistance if possible, when a sudden scream 
 from the squaws proved that he was noticed. All was 
 now confusion ; the chief forcibly drew me in the rear of 
 the Indians, w^ho had resumed their arms, and were wait- 
 ing the approach of my negro. Edom, finding himself 
 discovered, advanced with firmness, and coming in front 
 of the Indians, took off his cap, and after making a low 
 bow, began dancing a Guinea dance. I felt alarmed, and 
 feared it would cause them to commit some violence : I 
 was however mistaken ; they all fell a laughing, and tlie 
 old chief advanced and took liim by the hand, seeming ta 
 be highly pleased with him. 
 
 I now went up to the chief, and requested him to give 
 me my gun : he told me it was out of his power, he be- 
 ing not the head of the tribe, and that I must accompany 
 him to their town, where the head chief was, who would 
 return it, if it could be found : this was what I was afraid 
 of, that the Indian who had my gun would absent himself, 
 and that by this means I should lose it. I found it impossi- 
 ble to obtain it by any other means, and complied. The 
 old man now conducted me to his wigwam, where I found 
 his wife and two of his daughters : he informed me that 
 they were on a hunting party, and should return the next 
 day. Edom was allowed to come and wait upon me, and 
 he very much attracted tlie attention of tlie chief's daugh- 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 139 
 
 tcrs, who indulged their curiosity by examining him 
 very particularly ; and the exclamation Tee^ tee, which fell 
 from both of them, proved that they were well pleased 
 with him. 
 
 During the evening we were amused with dancing, 
 which lasted till a late hour, and was joined in by both 
 sexes. The music was performed on a simple instrument, 
 made of cane, having a hole in the middle, into which the 
 musician blew, and produced not a disagreeable sound. 
 
 CHAP. XL 
 
 The author arrives at the town of the Yorotees — Friend- 
 ly reception — Restoration of my rifle — Author request- 
 ed to afford assistance in a war — Reasoris for so doing 
 — Preparations — Weapons of the Yorotees — War coun- 
 cil — War song — Dance — Commence our journey. 
 
 In. the morning the chief awaked me, and the natives 
 'proceeded to collect their materials for moving towards 
 the town. About noon wc started, and travelled through 
 a fertile country, abounding in venerable trees, which 
 reared their heads in majestic grandeur to the skies. 
 Small rivulets interspersed the pleasant vallies, and at once 
 gave beauty and animation to the scene. We travelled 
 about 'fifteen miles, when Ave came to a tliick sAvamp, 
 through which we found an Indian path that led us about 
 half a mile ; we then opened upon an extensive plain, and 
 the appearance of tlie to^vn caused a general joy in our 
 
140 KEll'S TitAVEl.S. 
 
 little gi'oiip, who had all been out some time, and ^vere in 
 ^v.int of many necessary articles. 
 
 On onr arrival, the chief, \vith all tlie women and others 
 of the tribe, came out to meet us, and seemed much 
 pleased at the return of their friends. I was presented to 
 the chief, who received me with kindness, and spake a 
 few >vords to me ; but finding I did not understand him, 
 he conversed w^ith me by signs, and seemed highly pleas- 
 ed ^vith the answers I gave him respecting the countries 
 I had passed through, the manners of the people, &c. 
 He told me he had been in nineteen battles ; that he once 
 \vent a great way off' to fight the whites, but tlie rain pre 
 vented him from giving them battle. He showed mc 
 nineteen scars, and told me he had two sons killed in n war 
 Avith a great nation in the west. 
 
 I now stated to the chief the loss I had sustained of 
 my gun, and rc(}uestcd him to cause it to be returned to 
 mc. He immediately replied, that if any of his people 
 liad done so tlioy should be punished, and directed mc 
 to follow him. When we came to the square, (a large 
 space found in the ceiUre of almost iill Indian towns,) I 
 was directed to stand still : he then ordered some of the 
 inferior chiefs who attended him to go and collect the 
 men. In a few minutes the sound of shells >vas heard in 
 ever}^ quarter. I began to grow alarmed for my safet}% 
 and the old man, perceiving me to iook grave, demanded 
 the reason, assuring me I had nothing to fear, as this was 
 a customary thing when they assembled a council. 
 
 In a few minutes all the natives of the village were as- 
 sembled, and arranged in two rows. The chief then ad- 
 vanced into the middle of them, and spoke for some time 
 with a loud and commanding Voice ; at the end of ever\ 
 sentence he would stani)) his foot \\ith violence upon the 
 
KER\S TRAVELS. 141 
 
 ♦ground. When he had finished speaking, a profound si- 
 lence reigned throughout the assembly, till at length one 
 ;idvanced and spake a few words to the chief, who an- 
 swered him with mildness ; he went away, and not a syl- 
 lable was spoken during his absence, which was, as 
 near as I could judge, about twenty minutes. At last he 
 returned, bearing in his hand my gun, which had been 
 taken to pieces. I felt concerned lest he had broken it^ 
 ]3Ut I soon saw that it had been taken apart by slipping off 
 the iron rings ; he advanced to the chief and laid the gun 
 at his feet. The old n/annow looked at him with stern- 
 ness, and after addressing him for about twenty minutes, 
 directed two or three to bind him. I now understood he 
 was to be punished, and advancing to the chief, I kneeled, 
 and implored him by signs to forgive the offender. He 
 seemed surprised, and was ready to refuse me ; but 1 
 entreated with earnestness, and he at length consented to 
 pardon him. The moment his pardon was pronounced, 
 the natives all set up a shout, and came towards me, tak-^ 
 ing my hand, and expressing signs of joy and tliankful- 
 ness, assuring me I should be among them as a brother, 
 so long as I, thought proper to stay. 
 
 Upon receiving my rifle, I made the old man a present 
 of some pictures I had drawn, representing a horse, In- 
 dians, hogs, &c. together with a large string of beads, and 
 a small belt, with which he seemed highly pleased ; he in 
 return gave me a pair of mockasins, curiously trimmed 
 with wampum. 
 
 The chief informed me that they were going to war 
 ^vith a neighbouring nation, which was considered very 
 powerful, and he wished very miich to ask of me a par- 
 ticular favour, which, if I would grant, would enable them 
 ■■> b'-»t their enemies ; it was no other than tlvii T sbonlfl 
 
142 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 let Edom go and carry my musket, which would strike 
 terror and dismay into the hearts of their enemies. I im- 
 mediately told the chief, that not only my black man> 
 but myself also would go witli them, and would do all in 
 our power to relieve them from their difficulties ; at this 
 they were overjoyed, and endeavoured to express their 
 gratitude by a thousand different jestures. 
 
 They immediately set about preparing for their intended 
 campaign. I found them to be about two thousand 
 strong, all of them armed with bows and arrows, spears 
 and slings. The arrows WTre about six feet in length, 
 pointed at the head with bone, and made very smooth; 
 they were dipped in a poisonous kind of liquor, which 
 they said no remedy among them could remove. Their 
 spears were twelve feet lo]ig, made of ash, straight, and 
 very highly polished ; these they tlirew to an astonishing 
 distance, and rarely ever missed their object. Their 
 slings were made of the fibres of the sycamore tree 
 twisted, with ^vhich they would send stones the distance 
 of two hundred yards, and with surprising swiftness. On 
 the whole, wlxen they are equipped their appearance is far 
 from being contemptible. 
 
 I now cleaned my rifle and pistol, set Edom to cast 
 some balls, and made other prepai'ations for the ensuing 
 campaign. They intended starting the next new moon, 
 which would be in tliree days. My principal object in 
 taking this tour with the Indians, was to have a view of 
 the country, and ascertain whether there were any mines 
 or other valuables. 
 
 On tlie evening of the day preceding their march, all 
 tlie chiefs assembled in. the square where they were ac- 
 customed to do business ; they seated themselves in a 
 circle round a moimd of earth nearly in the centre of the 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 143 
 
 *iquare, and Avere soon followed by all the young men and 
 t\'omen in the village, who took their seats at a respectful 
 distance from the old men ; next came the boys and girls, 
 from twelve to eight years old, and lastly tlie old women, 
 who ranged themselves in an exact circle on the outside. 
 
 The old chief arose and harangued them for some time, 
 (as 1 afterwards understood,) on the injuries and aggres- 
 sions which they had received from their enemies, whc 
 had destroyed their hunting, waylaid their women and 
 children, and called them cowards. He was succeeded 
 by the next oldest, who recounted the bravery of their 
 fathers, and the many battles they had won from those 
 with whom they were going to contend ; then telling 
 them if thev were now defeated, when the white man was 
 with them, it would be injurious to their country and a 
 disgrace to themselves, he exhorted tliem to fight val- 
 iantly. This chief was succeeded by several others, who 
 endeavoured by their eloquence to inspire their young 
 men with courage. 
 
 After tliis they all rose, and sang their war song in a 
 loud tone of voice ; it was quick, and in many parts not 
 unmusical, and they beat exact time with their feet and 
 hands. 
 
 They now all formed themselves into a sti'aight line^ 
 the old men at the head. After marching twice round 
 the square, the old men and women filed off" for the chief's 
 w^igwam, but the young ones continued on to the centre 
 of the square. Musical instruments were now produced, 
 and preparations made for dancing. It commenced by a 
 young man and woman leading off", who danced for some 
 time, and were then joined by others. Their dancing 
 w^as not graceful, nor did it display any ingenuity ; it con- 
 sisted in moving the foot first backward and forward, and 
 
144 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 then jumping up and down, with a harsh noise made by 
 the clapping of their hands. 
 
 The dance lasted for some time, when the young men 
 disappeared ; they soon returned, habited in their war 
 dress, and painted most hideously. On their appearance 
 the girls retired, and left them in possession of the ground. 
 They commenced their ceremonies by singing and hide- 
 ous jestures, which lasted near an hour ; they then as- 
 sembled in a circle, and commenced dancing with the 
 most wild and savage manner I ever saw. I understood 
 this was their war dance, and was always performed be- 
 fore they gave an enemy battle ; it continued till a late 
 hour, when they separated for the night. 
 
 In the morning early, they all assembled for the pur- 
 pose of invoking their gods, which being done, and three 
 hogs being offered by way of sacrifice, we departed. 
 After a tedious march, we encamped for the night with- 
 in about seven miles of our enemies. 
 
KER^S TRAVELS. U5 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Success of the Indian enterprise — Peace concluded— 
 Description of the mantier in which they conclude a 
 treaty — Some account of this nation — curious manner 
 of counting— Author leaves the Yorotees — Description 
 of them — Striking similarity between many of their 
 religious ceremonies and those of the ancient Jews — 
 Comparison of ancient prophecies in relation to the In* 
 dians — General observations. 
 
 On the 12th of May we a^voke early, and started on our 
 expedition. The Indians were now very cautious in their 
 proceedings, advancing but slowly, and I had an oppor- 
 tunity to view the country, which abounded in all kinds 
 of wild fruits and flowers, with lofty trees whose heads 
 were covered with perpetual verdure. The soil appeared 
 to . be a black loam intermixed with a reddish kind of 
 earth, and it is certainly the richest I ever saw. 
 - About noon some of our scouting parties returned, 
 bringing information that the enemy were drawn up in 
 battle array about half a mile distant. At this informa- 
 tion our party halted, and a council of war was held. I 
 now advanced, and beckoning with my hand that I wish- 
 ed to be heard, they immediately took me 'to the centre of 
 the circle, and listened with profound attention. I told 
 them I wanted sixty of their bravest warriors to accom- 
 pany me, and that with these I would beat their enemies. 
 They seemed to doubt whether that was possible, as there 
 ^v•ere upwards of fifteen hundred of their enemies. I as- 
 sured them that it was possible, and that they had nothing 
 to fear as to the result. 
 
 19 
 
146 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 The sixty wamors were soon selected, and were the 
 stoutest and bravest in the whole tribe : besides their 
 arms, they had a kind of shield which I had not before 
 noticed ; it consisted of buffalo skin cut in a circular 
 form, eight or ten pieces of which, being pounded hard, 
 were fastened together with thongs : it was calculated to 
 resist the force of an arrow, and was a considerable de- 
 fence to them in time of battle. I directed Edom to take 
 the pistol, with balls, &c. whilst I carried the rifle, which 
 was loaded with a brace of balls. An old chief, who knew 
 where the enemy were encamped, undertook to conduct 
 us to them. I told the warriors that when I gave the 
 signal, they must advance and give their enemies battle, 
 and when they were all drawn out, I would fire and rout 
 them ; to this they consented. 
 
 In about an hour we were nearly up with the encamp- 
 ment of the enemy, and could hear them singing and 
 dancing ; and in a few minutes we heard a yell, by which 
 w^e knew we were discovered. We now advanced briskly 
 to the contest, and on coming to a hollow I placed Edom 
 in it, telling him to take a favourable opportunity and 
 sally out among them. A little further on, I espied the 
 natives advancing in order of battle : I now halted, and 
 placing myself behind a tree, told the Indians to advance, 
 and after the first discharge of arrows to retreat near to 
 the tree where I stood. I saw it would be more advan- 
 tageous for Edom to join me, and therefore beckoned for 
 him to come up. In a few minutes I heard the yell of 
 both parties, and saw the arrows flying in the air. Our 
 party jio sooner dischai'ged their arrows thari they retreat- 
 ed near to the tree where I stood, pursued by their ene- 
 mies. Seeing a large party advancing headed by a man 
 I judged to be their chief, I singled him out, fired, and 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 147 
 
 brought him to the ground. I now took my pistol and 
 iired again, when another fell. This created consternation 
 and amazement among them : they lieard a noise, saw 
 their chief fall, but could not see any appearance of what 
 hurt him. I soon had loaded my piece, and our Indians 
 being anxious to advance, I put myself at their head. 
 We charged with quickness, and on coming within fifty 
 yards of the enemy, I levelled and trought two of them 
 to the ground : at the same time the Indians rushed for- 
 wards with horrid yells, and their enemies fled on all sides. 
 They pursued them for some time, and then returned and 
 fell to plundering their camp, and setting fire to their wig- 
 wams. The scalp of the chief was presented to me, but 
 I refused to take it, telling them it was not good. 
 
 The Indians found large quantities of plunder, which 
 detained them till a late hour to collect ; we then all set 
 out for our encampment. When we aiTived within 
 about half a mile, they set up a loud and tremendous 
 noise, and were in a short time ans^vered by all those 
 who were w^aiting for us ; it consisted in a kind of song 
 which they clianted with much vehemence, reciting the 
 praises of the warriors vv'ho had fallen in battle, their own 
 valour, and the many dangers they had inciuTed. 
 
 When w^e returned to the village we were received 
 with great demonstrations of joy by all the women, who 
 came out to meet us, dancing and singing. I was vtry 
 much cai'essed by the old chief's daughters, wlio seemed 
 highly pleased at some presents I had made them of beads, 
 and were continually crying Tee, tee, with much satis- 
 faction. 
 
 When we arrived I was conducted to the chief, who 
 received me with nmch affection, calling me his Yocatee, 
 9r brother ; he told me their enemies would not attempt 
 
148 KEll'S TRAVEI.S. 
 
 to fight them any more, and that they xvould sue lor 
 peace in a few days. He was not mistaken, for on the 
 next day an Indian chief from this tribe was brought in, 
 who said that it was the wish of the nation to have peace ; 
 that they had never wished to go to war, but for the chief 
 who was now dead, who had an enmity against them for 
 killing his father. The old man then told him, that on 
 the morrow he would assemble all the chiefs, and that 
 they must have four of theirs, to agree on terms ; he then 
 departed. 
 
 On the next morning they all assembled round a large 
 fire, nearly in the same order they did when they set out 
 for war, except that the chiefs from the other tribe were 
 placed in the middle. They smoked the pipe of peace, 
 and each chief made a short speech, in which he declared 
 in the name of his nation he had no desire to go to ^\'ar ; 
 this being done, they all fell to dancing, which lasted for a 
 considerable time. 
 
 When they had finished dancing, they went to feasting 
 on a buffalo which had been killed and roasted for the oc- 
 casion. After they had sufl^iciently satisfied their hunger, 
 they arose and once more smoked the pipe of peace, all 
 standing and looking towai'ds the west ;' after this they 
 shook hands and parted. Thus was a war concluded 
 which thi'eatened the loss of hundreds in the contest, with 
 the loss of only fourteen or fifteen, and secured to me the 
 gratitude and esteem of the nation. 
 
 The nation which I have just had occasion to men- 
 tion, according to the information I have received from 
 the old man, contains in all about ^\€^ thousand souls. 
 They are situated about eighty miles from the Red river, 
 about south southwest, on a lake called by the natives 
 Testzapotecas ; their country is fertile, abounding in 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 149 
 
 ^ood pastures, which feed immense herds of buffalo and 
 deer ; some antelopes are likewise to be found in the 
 country, the skins of which are seen in plenty among the 
 natives. They are a warlike people, and fond of plun- 
 der, making frequent incursions upon the neighbouring 
 tribes ; they are stout, robust, and well made, being all 
 of them near six feet in height. 
 
 Their marriage ceremonies are somewhat singular, and 
 deserve to be related. When a young man is desirous of 
 obtaining a wife, he goes out, kills a buffalo, and then 
 proceeds to the hut of his sweetheart ; he now sets up a 
 lamentable howl, which he continues for some time ; at 
 last the damsel appears with a large stick, with which she 
 beats him for some time, he standing entirely still ; when 
 she is tired she desists, and he goes his way. This is 
 continued for some time, and if the lover appears not to 
 flinch from the beating, she at last lays down the stick, 
 and sets herself at his feet ; the old people then come out 
 and invite him into the hut, which he for some time re- 
 fuses, but at length consents. On the next day the mar- 
 riage is solemnized, and he carries her to his hut. 
 
 I now thought of proceeding on my journey, and ac- 
 quainted the chief with my intention, telling him I must 
 proceed. He seemed very loth to have me leave them', 
 and pressed me to stay a little longer : I told him it was 
 impossible. I found we should have to return nearly to 
 the place where we first met the Indians, before we should 
 be enabled to proceed on our journey. I directed Edom 
 to put every thing in readiness, that we mi^ht depart on 
 the next day : he was much joyed at this, for however 
 well treated by the Indians, he did not like to be among 
 them. 
 
 Early in the morning we were both mounted; having 
 
150 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 liad the good luck to procure another horse : akhough 
 tliey Avere a cry scarce, and held in high estimation by the 
 natives, yet they spared me one in consideration of my 
 services to them. We were accompanied by tlie old 
 chief and several of the natives, who seemed sorry at our 
 departure. When we came neai' to the place where they 
 must leave me, tliey all stopped, took me by the hand, 
 and shook it affectionately. They then commenced 
 singing in a low and plaintive tone, ^^^hich lasted for some 
 time ; the old man then advanced, threw a string of wam- 
 pum around my neck, embraced me, and we piirted. 
 
 I was much affected by this attention on the part of 
 the savages ; it was sincere ; they felt what they express- 
 ed ; and I could not help comparing it with the conduct 
 of many of those who call themselves civilized, and who, 
 while professing sentiments of esteem and regard, are at- 
 tempting to do a serious injury. 
 
 I proceeded on my way, steering as nearly as possible 
 a southwest by a westerly course, in order to strike anoth- 
 er tribe of Indians, from whom I expected to collect some 
 considerable information relative to that part of tlie coun- 
 try. We proceeded without meeting with any tiling 
 worthy of notice until night, ^vhen we encamped, having 
 come eighteen miles. 
 
 The Indians which we had just left, are called the Yo- 
 rotees. They are small in stature, but well built, and 
 their women handsome. Their clothing is made of the 
 skins of beasts, or of feathers sewed togetlier : it consists 
 of two pieces, one of which reaches from the waist to the 
 knees, and the other is tlirown loosely over the shoulders. 
 Their huts are simple in their construction, being four 
 poles set in the eartli, which are tied at the top and coverr 
 ed with the lea>es or bark of trees. Their household 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 151 
 
 furniture consists of a few gourds, some leaves, and a 
 stick, with which they strike fire. In their rchgious cere- 
 monies they are very siiperstitious, hkc all other nations 
 who are if^norant of revelation. They have three gods, 
 tlic principal of which is called Tctcwee ; to him they 
 offer sacrifices of hogs, and the first fruits of the season. 
 
 In travelling through difiercnt tribes of Indians, I have 
 liad opportunity to notice many singularities in their reli- 
 gious worship, ^vhich approach near to that of the an- 
 cient Jewish religion : singular as* this may appear, it is a 
 fact which requires investigation, and is highly deserving 
 the attention of the learned. In this particular tribe I ob- 
 served ihany strong traits of Judaism ; they circumcise 
 their children ; in their religious ordinances they havo 
 their high-priest, and in a small house is kept an ark, 
 which it is death for any one to touch but the high-priest. 
 They have likewise tliree towns which are considered 
 sacred, and if any one kills another and flees to these pla- 
 ces of refuge, he is safe and none dare disturb him. 
 They have also, like the Jews, three principal festivals ; 
 one is after their hunting is over, when they all assemble, 
 bringing with them their old stock which has remained 
 over the season, and laying it in a pile, when it is set fire 
 to and consumed ; they now observe a fast of three days, 
 denying every indulgence, and forgiving all their ene- 
 mies. The next day after the fast is closed, the high • 
 priest lights a fire by rubbing dry wood together, from 
 which every dwelling is supplied with the sacred flame- 
 The scene now changes ; hilarity and mirth reign ; new 
 fruits and meats are brought forward, and three days are 
 spent in dancing and amusement. 
 
 These circumstances are no less interesting than true, 
 ■*nd deserve the serious consideration of the curious. In 
 
 -^ 
 
152 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 many of the prophecies mentioned in the Old and New 
 Testaments, respecting the Jews, there is a striking simi- 
 larity. It was said to the Israelites, " And they that are 
 left of you shall pine away in their iniquity in your ene- 
 mies' lands ; the land of your enemies shall eat you up.'* 
 Lev'it, chap. xxvi. And it was very similar with the 
 Indians ; the small number of Europeans who first visited 
 this country, were, in comparison of the immense popu- 
 lation, but as a grain of sand ; yet they succeeded in 
 forcing their way in spite of all opposition, and though 
 the natives were sturdy warriors, nothing but their bones 
 are now left to tell to the world that they once existed. 
 It was also observed in regard to the Israelites, that they 
 should be offered for sale, and few or none should buy 
 them, Deut, ch. xxviii. ; and in the different wars of die 
 state of Massachusetts, the Indians were sent in great 
 numbers up tlie Mediterranean, (according to Mr. Hutch- 
 inson,) and found few or no purchasers. 
 , The resemblance of many words in their language, is 
 thought by Dr. Edwards to be sufficient to identify the 
 people. Whether this similarity exists with regard to 
 this nation, I caimot say, as I do not understand the lan- 
 guage. 
 
 The traditions of this tribe relative to events of the 
 eastern continent, and of remote antiquity, are curious, 
 and deserving attention. They have traditions which 
 evidently refer to the creation, the fall of man, the flood, 
 the tower of Babel, and the longevity of antediluvian ages. 
 They say that in ancient times, their ancestors lived till 
 their feet were worn out with walking, and their throats 
 with eating. 
 
 From these observations it may be seen there is a 
 nearer affinity between the nations of the new continent 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 153 
 
 and the old than has been generally immagined ; and that 
 the speculations of different writers relative to the peopling 
 of our continent, and their conjectures that it 'was accom- 
 plished in part by the way of Asia, is not ^vithout foun- 
 dation. 
 
 I shall conclude my observations on this people in the 
 language of Dr. Mather Megapolensis, a Dutch mission- 
 ary, who returned to Europe and published his travels 
 some time ago. 
 
 " How far some of these circumstances are common to 
 all nations who approximate to the same state of society, 
 or how far they may be characteristic of the same people, 
 I presume not to offer an opinion ; but leave it to those 
 who have more learning and more time for investigating 
 it than myself." 
 
 CHAP. xni. 
 
 Author pursues his journey — Encounters a bear — Ex- 
 treme tenacity of life in this animal — Reasons why the 
 author wishes to meet with the natives — Observations 
 on the decline of the Spanish monarchy — Author kills 
 an elk — Description of it, 
 
 I PURSUED my journey the next morning without meet- 
 ing any obstructions, and about seven o'clock we stopped 
 to breakfast on a large tortoise my negro had caught in 
 the neighbourhood of a pond. After proceeding on our 
 journey for about four miles, we came to a cane brake, 
 ^vhich extended from a sinall rivulet to the margin of a 
 
 20 
 
154 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 wood. I here perceived a number of ducks, one of 
 "vvhich I shot, and found it very good meat, although of a 
 fishy taste. 
 
 We travelled this day about twenty miles, and encamp- 
 ed for the night. The scene around was truly interesting : 
 the last rays of the setting sun shone upon the tops of the 
 surrounding mountains and trees ; the twilight clad all 
 things in a livery of gray ; the moon rose with clouded 
 majesty, and threw over the darksome scene her silver 
 mantle. I contemplated the surrounding objects with awe 
 and admiration. All was silent as the hour of death, for 
 beasts and birds had retired to their grassy couch or to 
 their nests. I felt much depressed in spirits, as I was 
 about entering among a tribe of savages with whose char- 
 acter, customs, and language, I was wholly unacquainted, 
 and was altogether uncertain what reception I should 
 meet with from them, which perhaps would be instant 
 death : but I committed myself to the protection of that 
 omnipotent Being who had hitherto directed all my steps ; 
 who had been my guide by day and guard by night, and 
 Avithout whose permission the fierce ihabitant of the 
 wood, and all the savage bands, cannot harm ; I felt that 
 I was under His sole protection. Having no fi*iend to 
 converse with, or cheer the melancholy hour, my heart 
 sunk within me as my mind reverted to past scenes ; the 
 recollection of the friends I had left, the almost trackless 
 space that separated me from all my heart held dear,**^with 
 a thousand tender reflections, crowded upon my mind, till 
 at length, overpowered with flitigue, I fell asleep, having 
 the cold earth for my bed, and the canopy of heaven for 
 my covering. 
 
 , I awoke in the morning refreshed ; all nature seemed 
 to smile around me. Cheering indeed to the lonely 
 
KER'S TRAVELS, 155 
 
 traveller, are the first rays in the east ; yet how much 
 more glorious and resplendent does it appear, when, risen 
 above the liorizon, the sun comes to full view, to cheer 
 all nature with his beams ; the bloom of spring pre- 
 sents itself on every side, and in the enjoyment of its 
 fragrance are felt new delights, while every sorrowful 
 idea gradually retires from the bosom. 
 
 We arose and pursued our journey ; we had not trav- 
 elled over four miles, when Edom stopped and exclaimed. 
 See there, master. I looked, and saw one of the largest 
 bears my eyes ever beheld ; he seemed to be of a kind I 
 had not before seen, and kept his eyes constantly fixed 
 on me ; I stopped and levelled my gun, which was 
 loaded with ball. The moment I fired he sprang towards 
 me, and I had but just time to get into a tree, when he 
 was at my horse's feet ; he seemed regardless- of him, 
 and immediately prepared to ascend the tree. My situa- 
 tion was truly dangerous ; fortunately I had my ammuni- 
 tion with me, and I set about loading my gun. The 
 bear, although severely wounded, Avas determined to as- 
 cend the tree, and I had every thing to fear ; he had not 
 seen Edom, who now advanced and levelled at him with 
 his pistol ; the ball entered his lungs, but so tenacious 
 was he of life that he now seemed possessed of more 
 strength than ever, and seemed determined to ascend the 
 tree. My rifle being loaded, I levelled and shot him 
 through the head ; he fell to the ground, bellowing and 
 rolling about, and when I descended from the tree he 
 had breathed his last. 
 
 This was the largest bear I ever saw, measuring 
 twelve feet without his tail; I could not tell how 
 much he weighed, but we could not lift him from the 
 gi'ound. He was very fat, and we made a good supper 
 
156 KEU'S TRAVELS. 
 
 off of him, and kept the remainder for the time of need. 
 We proceeded on our journey, and encamped for the 
 night about ten miles distant from where I killed the bear, 
 as it took us some time to skin him, and secure that part 
 of his meat which would be of service to us. 
 
 The next morning the sky was overcast, and I dreaded 
 a storm ; I nevertheless pursued my journey, as I was 
 anxious to arrive among those tribes where I had under- 
 stood there was something which would amply compen- 
 sate me for all my difficulties, toils, and dangers. I had 
 travelled about two thousand miles, through an almost 
 impassable wilderness, and I felt anxious to obtain some- 
 thing which would compensate me for all my sufferings. 
 
 This country abounds in mines and other natural 
 riches, and is abundantly furnished with every thing 
 which could give peace and plenty to the heart of man, 
 arftl that too without any of his labour. I cannot but ac- 
 knowledge, however, that an influx of wealth cannot 
 make a people happy ; and that agriculture is better cal- 
 culated for it than any other employment which we know 
 of. Spain, by the immense sums which it has dra^vn 
 from the mines of Potosi, has been enabled to deluge her 
 country with wealth, without however affording it even 
 the shadow of happiness. She has become effeminate ; 
 agriculture and the fine arts arc neglected. Many of her 
 kings thought themselves, inexhaustible in wealth, and 
 ^vaged long and bloody wars against the different Euro- 
 pean nations ; the consequence has been, that she is 
 drained of her men and money ; her flourishing manu* 
 factures have fallen into decay ; her fleets, which have 
 been the terror of Europe, are all destroyed ; her exten- 
 sive foreign commerce is lost ; the trade between differ- 
 ent parts of her own dominions interrupted, and the ships 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 157 
 
 employed in caiTying it on, taken and plundc red by ene- 
 mies she once despised. 
 
 Such is the present degi'aded state of a country \vhich 
 once furnished the best fleet in Europe ; and whose de- 
 cUne has been hastened by the immense sums she has 
 drawn from the new world. 
 
 Why then, it may be asked, was I anxious to procurq 
 that which had been th'e source of so many misfortunes 
 to flourishing nations ? I answer, because, widi the ma- 
 jority of mankind, I thought that, if used with propriety, 
 it coukl be made the source of happiness, and become a 
 real blessing to mankind; as the right application of 
 riches cannot but ensure to the possessor the happiness of 
 an approving conscience. 
 
 About twelve o'clock it cleared away, and the sun 
 shone with brilliancy. The season had now become 
 mild and serene, and I wa^ rapidly advancing into that 
 climate which breathes perpetual spring ; the birds sang 
 with the sweetest melody, the trees yielded a rich per- 
 fume, and scattered their fragrance over a thousand 
 hills. Having, travelled about twenty-five miles, w^e en- 
 camped for the night- 
 
 In the morning we were much put to it for the Avant of 
 provision, this article having become scarce within a few 
 days. We had proceeded about five miles when we 
 opened- upon a rich meadow, and perceived a small herd 
 of elk grazing, who had not yet observed us ; they wtr^^ 
 the first I had seen during my travels, and I felt anxious 
 to get a shot at them. I directed Edom to dismount and 
 hold both our horses, whilst I advanced cautiously along 
 on my hands and knees : I loaded my gun and pistol, and, 
 taking tlie edge of the woods, crept slowly along for about 
 200 yards, keeping my eye constantly on the herd, which 
 
158 KEIl'S TRAVELS. 
 
 did not observe me ; judging I was near enough, I level- 
 led my piece and brought one of them to the ground, and 
 the others ran off with astonishing rapidity. I advanced 
 to the one I had killed, and found him fkt and fit for 
 roasting. 
 
 As this was the first elk I had an opportunity of seeing, 
 I shall give a short description of him. He measured nine 
 feet from the end of the muzzle to the root of the 
 tail, the head and neck being extended in a line with the 
 body ; its height at the shoulder was four feet six inches ; 
 length of the head one foot six inches ; length of the fore- 
 legs two feet five inches ; length of the neck two feet six 
 inches ; its ears measured nine inches, and its tail three. 
 Its horns were not palmatic, like those of the moose ; they 
 were large, and measured about five feet from tip to tip. 
 The antlers were round imd pointed at the ends, the low- 
 ermost forming a curve downward over each eye, to 
 which they appeared a defence. Its hair was long, of a 
 dark dun colour on the back and sides, and of a dark 
 brown on the head and legs. Its eyes were full and lively, 
 and below each there was a deep slit about two inches in 
 length, the use of which I was unable to determine. They 
 are very lively and active, of great strength of body and 
 limbs ; their hoofs are short and like those of a calf; the 
 division between them is less than in those of the reindeer, 
 aiul when the animal is in motion they do not make a rat- 
 tling noise. They have no mane, but the hair under thq 
 zieck is longer than tliat on any other part of the body. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 159 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 Descnption of the country — Author meets two Indian hunt^ 
 ers — Manner of their taking buffalo — Author goes with 
 them to their tribe — Friendly reception from the chief 
 of the Mnacedeus — Singular treatment received by 
 Eidom — Preparations of the natives for a grand hicnt — 
 Author accompanies them — Consternation of the In- 
 dians at seeiiig f rearms. 
 
 W^E had now a sufficiency of provision, which would 
 enable us to travel some days ; and I felt anxious to arrive 
 among a tribe of Indians, from whom I expected to re- 
 ceive valuable information. I found by e^^mining my 
 maps that I had already deviated a considerable distance 
 from the direct road to Mexico ; and owing to the trou- 
 bles which were daily taking place in that fine countr}-, I 
 determined to take a circuitous route, and explore the 
 western part of that country which borders on Mexico, 
 previous to entering the Mexican empire. 
 
 We pursued our joumfey until we came to a broad 
 stream, over which we swam our horses, and entered into 
 a country which was more mountainous and woody than 
 any I had seen : the wood principally consisted of black 
 ash, sycamore, black walnut, hickory, and lofty magno- 
 lias ; indeed this is the common growth of the country, 
 although there are many other sorts, but not in plenty. 
 Among the number which I saw was the cork tree, some 
 of which were very large, and I presume they would be 
 found quite as valuable as those of Europe, as some of 
 them were larger than any I had seen in Spain. We en- 
 
160 KER'S TRAVELS, 
 
 camped at night, after having come about twenty-five 
 miles. 
 
 In the morning I was awaked by Edom, who informed 
 mc that he heard a noise as of some one singing. I im- 
 mediately arose, and made such preparations as were ne- 
 cessary, fearing I should have to contend with an enemy. 
 As it was daylight, I thought it best to pursue our jour- 
 ney. We had not gone far when I perceived a smoke, 
 which appeared to be at no great distance, and exactly in 
 our track. I examined my rifle and pistol, putting my- 
 self In readiness to meet an enemy. In a few minutes an 
 opening in the trees discovered to me two Indians, who 
 liad not as yet seen us. We advanced with caution, be- 
 ing fearful of giving alarm ; in a few minutes they per- 
 ceived us, and seemed much struck with surprise. I held 
 out my hand, and endeavoured by signs to convince them 
 that I was friendly disposed. 1 dismounted my horse, 
 and advanced towards them : they eyed me with distrust, 
 but did not attempt to run away. When I came near I 
 offered my hand, which one of them advancing took hold 
 of, seeming much pleased with me. 
 
 I now conversed with them by signs, endeavouring to 
 learn how far it was to the next tribe of Indians, and to 
 nvhat tribe they belonged ; they told me their tribe w^as 
 distant three days' journey, and was the nearest tribe by 
 many miles ; that they had been out a hunting, and w^ 
 now returning home. I found to my surprise that I had 
 deviated a considerable distance from the course I had in- 
 tended to steer, which was oAving, as I afterwards found, 
 to my compass varying considerably. They told me if I 
 ^vould wait until they had examined their buffalo traps, 
 they \vould conduct me to their chief, who was a good old 
 man and a great warrior. I immediately consented, and 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 161 
 
 Ihcy set about arranging their hunting apparatus and pre- 
 paring to return. 
 
 1 found tliey had killed ai^out fourteen buffalo, nine 
 bears, and three elk ; the natives inform mc tliat these 
 last animals are caught with difficulty ; and it is very 
 seldom they get more than three or four of them during 
 the season. The buffalo are numerous, and more easily 
 ensnared ; their manner of taking them is singular and 
 worthy of description. 
 
 The traps are comjDOsed of trees laid one upon another, 
 to the height of about six feet, forming a square of about 
 fifty feet on each side. On that side \vhere they intend 
 the animal shall enter, a quantity of earth is laid, to the 
 height of the construction, so as to form an easy ascent of 
 about twenty feet. A numl^er of branches of trees are 
 placed from each side of the front, in a straight line from 
 the raised hill, for about one hundred feet in length, con- 
 tinually increasing in width, so tliat the exterior end ex- 
 ceeds two hundred feet. A number of poles about six- 
 teen feet in length are placed at about fourteen feet from 
 each other, with a piece of buffalo dung on the top, and 
 in a straight line from the boughs abovementioned. At 
 the foot of these poles, the hunter always lies concealed 
 to keep the animal in a straight direction, being wrapped 
 in a buffalo skin. These poles are placed alike on each 
 side, always increasing in breadth from one side to the 
 other, and decreasing as the animal approaches the pound. 
 When these traps are thus made, the hunters set oif and 
 find a herd of buffalo, which they drive easily along till 
 they arrive in the vicinity of the pound ; then one of them 
 advances and clothes himself in a buffalo skin, waiting the 
 approach of the herd, and endeavouring to keep them in 
 .M proper dirrrtion. Bv this means they are condncUfI 
 
 9] 
 
162 . KER^S TRAVELS. 
 
 witliin the exterior line of poles ; if any attempt to go 
 out, which is frequently the c:\se, they are prevented by 
 the hunters' shaking their buftlilo hides, which drives 
 them forward ; so that at last they arrive at the pound, 
 and fall headlong one upon another, some breaking their 
 necks, backs, &c. ; and now the confusion becomes gen- 
 eral, and although the pound is no more than six feet 
 high, none will make their escape. 
 
 On the morning of the next day, the Indians being 
 ready, we commenced our journey, and proceeded 
 through a thick forest of tall and stately trees, after \vhich 
 we opened upon an extensive plain. We saw nothing 
 worth mentioning, and at night encamped, having come 
 tliirty miles. 
 
 The Indians told me they were of the Mnacedeus tribe; 
 diat they had been out about t\velve days, and that they 
 were returning on account of a grand hunting match, 
 which they said was given in consequence of the marriage 
 of their chief's daughter. 
 
 The next morning we started early, and had proceeded 
 a considerable distance, whien Edom's horse became so 
 lame that it was with difficulty he could get along. Un- 
 derstanding that there were plenty of horses in their tribe, 
 I thought it best to leave our lame one, and mount Edom 
 behind one of the Indians, who had ofiered to take him 
 up. This being arranged, we proceeded along through 
 fme level plains, which abounded in. all the fruits common 
 to this country. At night we encamped, having come 
 about t\venty-eight miles. 
 
 The country through which we now passed was level^ 
 bounded on both sides by hills, which gradually sweR 
 into mountains which are clothed to their very tops with 
 verdure. ' The soil was a rich black loam, and in sonic 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 163 
 
 places a clayey kind of earth,, which appeared well calcu- 
 lated for grain of any kind, . 
 
 In the course of this day's journey I picked up some 
 pieces of mica and some cjuartz, which are not common 
 in this part of the country. The natives informed mc 
 that there were stones of a shining aj^pearance and very 
 hard, in a mountain about a day's journey from their vil- 
 lage ; this mountain I was determined to visit, and to 
 examine the stones for myself, if I could obtain the con- 
 sent of the natives. 
 
 The next morning the Indians awaked me early, and 
 we proceeded on our journey widiout any thing remarka 
 ble taking place, until after we entered a defile of the 
 mountains, where we found the road very bad, and were 
 under the necessity of leading our horses. About 4 
 o'clock we came up to the village, where we were re- 
 ceived by all the natives, who were drawn out to see us ;•. 
 from the curiosity that was excited, I judged that a great 
 part of them had never seen a white man before. They 
 conducted me to the chief, who I found habited in a deer 
 skin, which was thrown over his shoulders, with a head 
 dress of feathers, and ear-rings made of bone. He re- 
 ceived me very courteously, and after shaking mc by the 
 hand, enquired by signs from whence I came. I gave 
 him to understand that I had come a great w^ays from the 
 southeast, and was going towards a nation of whites at 
 a great distance off. He seemed satisfied with my an- 
 swers, and directed me to a hut where I found plenty of 
 refreshments. 
 
 My negro underwent a much closer investigation ; he 
 was the first one they had ever seen, and amused them not 
 I little. They would go up to him, feel of his hair, face, 
 and hands, and by rubbing endeavour to get off some of 
 
164 KER'S TRAVELS, 
 
 the black ; when they found this impossible, they would 
 go oft' a great distance, set up a loud laugh, and dance up 
 to him with great good humour. The old chief called 
 him into his tent, and would have made him sleep at his 
 feet, had not Edom told him he must keep ^\ith his mas- 
 ter and take care of him, to which the old chief very 
 readily consented. 
 
 The nation ^vere all busy in their preparations for a 
 hunt, which was to take place in a few days, and in which 
 all the great men and warriors were to be engaged. It 
 was given, as I was made to understand, in consequence 
 of a marriage w hich had been solemnized a few days be- 
 fore, between the principal warrior of the tribe, and the 
 chief's daughter. The warrior was a tall, stout, well 
 made Indian, of a 'rather lighter complexion than the 
 others, which I was told was occasioned by his being 
 •born of a woman who did not belong to their tribe ; it 
 being customary among them to adopt the prisoners taken 
 in war, and marry them the same as their own children. 
 He was called scalper^ which upon inquiry I found ^vas a 
 name he had assumed since he became a man, it being 
 customary for them to have a nhme given, which they are 
 under the necessity of retaining until they perform some 
 exploit either in hunting or war which will entitle them to 
 take a new name, when they are admitted into the coun- 
 cil of warriors with great ceremony. They choose what 
 name they please, which generally has some reference to 
 a distinguished action they have performed. This man 
 was called scalper^ on account of his having taken sixty- 
 three scalps in one day from a nation with Avhom they ^\'ere 
 at war. 
 
 The girl appeared about sixteen, and was handsomer 
 than any I had before seen ; she had an expression oF 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 165 
 
 melancholy in her countenance, which induced me to think 
 she was not entirely happy in her new husband ; and he 
 had a savage look which was fiir from being pleasing, and 
 more so than the natives of this tribe generally have. 
 
 On the morning of the fourth day after my arrival, 
 being the 16th of July, 1812, they sat out on their hunt- 
 ing excursion. The party consisted of all the chief war- 
 riors and young men of five of their principal towns, and 
 amounted in all to about one thousand. They were 
 armed with spears and arrows. Their spears '.vere about 
 fourteen feet in length, made of a kind of ^vood which I 
 did not know the name of ; the tree grows to the height 
 of five and twenty feet, and has small sharp pointed leaves. 
 The spears are pointed at the end with bone, which is 
 very sharp and smooth. Their arrows are made of white 
 oak, about six feet long, and those used for hunting are 
 blunted so as not to injure the skin of those birds they 
 kill ; those used for war are pointed, and dipped in a 
 poisonous kind of liquor. 
 
 We had about eight miles to go to die place ^vhere 
 they expected to find their game, ^vhich was througli a 
 wood, thick and almost impassable. At last we arrived 
 in the neighbourhood of a pond about a mile in extent, 
 around which the land was clear ; in the middle of the 
 lake there was a small island, which was thickly studded 
 with woods, and where there was plenty of game ; but 
 there were no canoes, and I waited with impatience to see 
 in what manner they would kill their game at the distance 
 of an hundred and fifty yards, and ^vhere the birds had 
 the benefit of thick trees to shade them from their ene- 
 mies. I soon found that in this consisted the principal 
 art and amusement of their hunting parties ; for whoever 
 could strike a deer or kill a bird at that distance, was 
 
166 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 considered a great hunter, and received the loudest ap- 
 plause. 
 
 I had brought my musket, wliich in fact was never out 
 of my hands day nor night, and I judged I should be en- 
 abled not only to amuse the natives, but to give them a 
 high opinion of my consequence. I had not as yet fired 
 my gun, and I judged very few of these Indians had 
 ever seen firearms before. They made several attempts 
 ■with their arrows and spears, which, though directed with 
 great exactness, w^ere nevertheless unsuccessful. I now 
 had a fine opportunity of showing my dexterity, as a deer 
 of the largest size came to the beach to drink ; several 
 arrows were discharged, which did not reach their object, 
 nor alarm him, I levelled my gun, and as he raised his 
 head, fired ; he fell, and the noise of the piece rolled 
 along the hills, and re-echoed from every cavern. I lookr 
 ed around me, but not an Indian was to be seen ; they 
 had fled with precipitation. At last the old chief ven- 
 tured to make his appearance, and after contemplating me 
 for some tune, advanced and asked me if the Great Spirit 
 was any more angry. I felt my risible faculties so strong- 
 ly excited by tliis question, that I had much difficulty in 
 keeping from laughing. I assured him he had nothing 
 to fear, and directed him to call his companions. In a 
 few minutes they all appeared, but with astonishment 
 marked in their countenances ; they approached me with 
 caution, and kept a suspicious eye upon my gun. I now 
 directed Edom to go and bring the stag, and three of the 
 Indians offered their services to assist him. In about a 
 quarter of an hour they got Rim over, and it was some 
 time before the Indians could find where he had received 
 the wound. The chief requested to take my gun, which 
 I lent him, and he examined it very attentively ; he thm 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. IG7 
 
 Itanded it to his son-in-law, who, after viewing it for some 
 time, returned it to me, telling me by signs I must fire 
 again. 1 accordingly loaded my gun, and in a few min- 
 utes, seeing four ducks on the wing, fired, and brought 
 three of them down ; when I fired the Indians all stopped 
 their ears and shut their eyes. 
 
 After getting the ducks, the chief directed the hunters 
 to move on to an open plain, and there to hunt the buffa- 
 lo ; this Was to be done on horses, some going on one 
 side , and some on the other, whilst^ those that remained in 
 the rear were to keep the game from escaping. The chase 
 sooi\ began, and was conducted with great skill by the 
 Indians, who were armed with a long spear, and rode 
 without a saddle. This manner of taking game, however, 
 is not so safe nor so quick as with the traps, and is never 
 practiced but upon particular occasions, when they wish 
 to show their horsemanship, which is far from being con- 
 temptible. 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Author sets out for a larger village of the Mnacedeus— 
 Observes strong marks of a Welch origin in this tribe — 
 Similarity of their marriages arid funerals rvith those 
 of the Welch — Author hears of a white man who is 
 among them — Finds considerable platina in their pos- 
 session — Ineffectual attempts to discover where they 
 procure it — Feigns himself sick — Curious treatment. 
 
 I WAS informed by the chief that they had a much larger 
 village near the mountain than ^he one we were now in, 
 and I felt anxious to see it. I accordingly obtained leave 
 
168 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 from the cliief to visit it. He sent an Indian with mc, 
 ^vitli orders to the chief of the village to use me well and 
 take special care of my property. 
 
 I had vmderstood from Dr. Sibley, when I was in 
 Natchitoches, that a number of travellers in our western 
 territories had asserted, that there was a strong similarity 
 • between the Indian language, and many words of the 
 Welch, which had led to conjectures that it was probable 
 they had descended from emigrants from that country, 
 many years before its discovery by Columbus. I had 
 been very careful in my inquiries among the different 
 tribes I had occasion to visit ; but had obtained no satis- 
 faction as yet relative to so important a point. 
 
 When I arrived in this village I perceived something 
 which struck me very forcibly as being different from any 
 thing I had before seen in any Indian town ; and being 
 always attentive to things which had a singular appear- 
 ance, I set about making such observations as would lead 
 to a discovery of the cause. There is a striking similar- 
 ity between their customs and those of the Welch ; 
 exclusive of this, they have printed books among them, 
 \vhich are preserved with great care, they having a tradi- 
 tion that they were brought tliere by their forefathers. 
 
 Besides tliis, many of their customs are very similar ; 
 their marriage ceremonies, for instance, which I had an 
 opportunity of seeing. After the couple are married, a 
 spot of ground is selected, and each one of the male rela- 
 tions contribute in forming a hut for the young couple, 
 A\ liile the care of furnishing it is left to the female rela- 
 tions. In their funeral ceremonies there is something 
 which approaches near to that of the Welch. Each one 
 of the kindred carry the corpse a short distance, and then 
 addi'cssing die deceased, they ask if they have ever failed 
 
K-ER'S TRAVELS. 16^ 
 
 to do their duty towards him. No^v these circumstances, 
 I am well aware, are not conclusive testimony, but the 
 similarity is very striking. In the marriages of the 
 Welch, according to the Rev. Dr. Bingley, they make a 
 collection to defray the expenses of the occasion, and aid 
 the new married couple ; in their funerals, it is customary 
 after prayer for four of the nearest kin to the corpse to 
 carry it to the grave. I did not understand the Welch 
 language, or I should have been enabled to have thrown 
 more light upon so interesting a subject. Hie books 
 appeared very old, and were evidently printed at a time 
 when there had been very litde improvement made in the 
 casting of types. I obtained a ftw leaves from one of the 
 chiefs, sufficient to have thrown light on the subject ; but 
 in my subsequent disputes with the Indians I lost them^ 
 and all my endeavours to obtain more were ineffectual. 
 
 Upon my return to Natchitoches, communicating tl^ 
 above information to some gentlemen whom I met at Dr. 
 Sibley's, one of them assured me that about two years 
 before he conversed with a Welch gentleman who had 
 been . employed by the Hudson bay company, and had 
 been recently in the vicinity of the Red river, that he there 
 met Indians whose dialect he well understood ; whose 
 women were much fairer than ordinary, and many of 
 Avhose customs agreed with those of his o^vn country ; 
 that he too had been shown a printed book, but could not 
 read it, owing as he thought to its being of so ancient a 
 date ; all his attempts to procure it were ineffectual. 
 
 I offer these accounts to tlie public without any com- 
 ments : they are vague, and in many parts unsatisfactory ; 
 but certain it is, if these are facts, it demands the serious 
 investigation of the curious and learned relative to the 
 
 22 
 
170 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 reasons which cause mankind to degenerate when left to 
 themselves. 
 
 The only historical information which serves to throw 
 any light upon die subject, is an account given by Mr. 
 Powell, in his History of Wales, which relates, that in the 
 twelfth century, Madoc, the youngest son of Madoc ap 
 Shenkin, weary of contending for his father's cro\Mi, left 
 his country, and sailed from Wales a due west course till 
 he discovered an unknown country. That he afterwards 
 returned, and made such favourable report of the land as 
 induced numbers to embark with him. He returned 
 again to his country, and sailed a third time, and has never 
 been heard of since. 
 
 jFor some days after my arrival I was quite unwell, 
 which was the only sickness I had experienced for 
 some months. I found the chief with whom I now 
 lived a man about forty years of age, stout, and well 
 made, though not tall ; he was married, and had three 
 children, all daughters. One of his daughters were 
 married to a young warrior who had been wounded in 
 batde and had not yet recovered. He told me that many 
 moons ago there came among them a white man, who 
 wished to stay and become one of them ; that they gave 
 him a wife ; that he ^vas now living, but gone on a hunting 
 party. I felt anxious to see this man, as much from cu- 
 riosity as any tiling ; for what rational being, thought ly 
 who had been accustomed to the sweets of civilized soci* 
 cty, would wish to leave their haunts a^id join a horde of 
 savages. 
 
 In my observations on the women, I perceived some 
 very fine pieces ojf metal which looked like platina ; I 
 (inquired of the natives \\ here they got it, but could get 
 no satisfactory answer, as they always appeared to evade 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 171 
 
 the question whenever it was put to them. I neverthe- 
 less determined to diseover it if possible, as the value of 
 the discovery would amply repay me for all my dangers 
 and disappointments. 
 
 These Indians, although they did not seem acquainted 
 with white men, yet appeared to imdcrstand that the pri- 
 mary cause of all the misfortunes which had attended the 
 aboriginal inhabitants, Avas their havmg mines in their 
 country which were sought after by the whites. Fearing 
 that they might HUl a prey to this avarice and rapacity, 
 they had determined to keep their mines a secret and dis- 
 cover them to no one ; I, however, trusted still to chance, 
 and as I saw enough of the metal and other circumstances 
 to convince me there were mines in their tribe, and that 
 too of considerable extent, I was determined to remain 
 among them for some time at least, in order to discover 
 them. 
 
 I found it would be necessary, in order to remain 
 among them witliout suspicion, that I should feign myself 
 sick ; accordingly one night about 12 o'clock I sent for 
 the old chief, and appeared in violent distress. I told 
 him I was unwell, and requested something which would 
 relieve my pain. He immediately commenced rubbing 
 my temples, applying warm stones to my feet, and en- 
 deavoured to get me into a profuse perspiration. After 
 about half an hour's attendance, finding I was easier, he 
 left me, but in the morning returned, attended by one of 
 the priests, who acted as a physician ; he took out of a 
 small bag some dried leaves, which he pulverized very 
 fine iu his hand ; then taking a small piece of fat of a 
 she bear, he mixed it very carefully together, until it be- 
 came a very fine salve. When this was done, he made a 
 iire in the middle of the hut, and heated some water by 
 
17i^ KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 throwing stones into it ; after it was suflieiently hot, lie 
 threw in a (juantity of herbs, and covered it over widi a 
 piece of bear skin. He now drew me towards the fire, 
 and after stripping off my shirt, he anointed my back ^vith 
 the ointment he had made, rubl)ing it widi such violence 
 as 'to force drops of sweat from my face. He now opened 
 a gourd which contained some tea, and gave me to drink 
 pl(5iitifully of it ; this threw me into a profuse sweat. I 
 felt a dro^\'siness, and in a few minutes after he had left 
 me I fell into a profound sleep. 
 
 When I awoke I foinid myself much weakelied, and 
 on my attempting to stir I was so sore as rendered it im- 
 possible. In a few minutes the chief and the doctor en- 
 tered, who enquired how I did. I assured him I was 
 better, but complained of being very sore. He then 
 looked at my back, and \yithout saying one ^vord, applied 
 more ointment. I expostulated, but all in vain ; he 
 seemed to pay no regard to my entreaties, and by the 
 next morning I found my back as raw as a piece of beef, 
 which confmcd me to my hut for about three \veeks. 
 During my confinement, the chief and the doctor visited 
 me constantly, and seemed b\^ their attentions to be anx- 
 ious for my recovery, although when I complained of my 
 back they would shrug up thvur shoulders, and smile at. 
 each other. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 173 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Author is introduced to the white man — His account of 
 himself- — Author gains his confidence and is shown the 
 platina mine — Description of it — Author returns to the 
 town, 
 
 DuiiiNG the time of my confinement I saw no one but 
 the old man, the priest, who acted a-s doctor, and my 
 faithful negro. I understood that the white man had re- 
 turned from hunting, but \vas not permitted to see him 
 until my recovery ; this was very slow, ov^ing to the ex- 
 treme soreness of my back, for the salve which my doc- 
 tor made use of had drawn more violently than any of our 
 cantharidcs. 
 
 In about three weeks I was allowed to leave my hut, 
 which \vas attended with some ceremony, in the evening 
 the young women assembling and dancing before my hut, 
 as a sign of joy at my recovery. The next morning I 
 was conducted to a hut in which sat a number of Indians, 
 and after remaining there some time was asked if I ^id 
 not see any one who looked like a white man. I now 
 examined every one with attention, but could see no one 
 \vho appeared different from the Indians. At last the 
 man arose, took me by the hand, and spoke to me in 
 English, rendered almost unintelligible h^ disuse. I an- 
 swered him^ and immediately the Indians left us. His 
 emotions were violent, and a tear stood in his eye as he 
 grasped my hand and asked me how long it was since I 
 left the United States. I informed him, and after we had 
 conversed a short time on uninteresting subjects, per- 
 
174 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 ceiving me to look at him with an eye of curiosity, he 
 told me that he would readily tell me what had induced 
 him to leave civilized society, if I would promise not to 
 tell the Indians, nor shun him while I remained among 
 them ; to this I agreed, and he seated himself and began 
 as follows : 
 
 " My name is Davis ; I was born in one of the north- 
 ern states j but shall avoid particularizing where, as my 
 relatives have long thought me dead. My parents, in my 
 early days, endeavoured to instil into my mind the senti- 
 ments of religion, and gave me such an education as 
 their circumstances would permit. My temper was vio- 
 lent, and even in my younger years would break out with 
 such fury, as at times to alarm my fatlier and mother. 
 They would expostulate with me, and endeavour to con- 
 vince me of my error ; but I seldom listened to their ad- 
 monitions, and would frequently, as soon as they were 
 out of sight, make game of them, and turn their good 
 advice into ridicule. It was my disobedience and con- 
 tempt of my parents' commands, which laid the founda- 
 tion of all my future misfortunes. 
 
 " At an early age I left my parents and went to sea. I 
 iiad not been out but about twelve days when a violent 
 storm arose, which in a few hours reduced our vessel to 
 such a wreck as made it necessary for us to take the boat. 
 In this situation we drifted about for three days, when we 
 were picked up by an English sloop of war, and imme- 
 diately seized upon and compelled to do duty on board 
 this vessel. I shall pass over the hardships and difficul- 
 ties I encountered while in this service, which continued 
 for eighteen months ; at the end of this time, while in 
 the West- Indies, I found means to escape, and arrived 
 ia the United States. My parents received me as om 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 175 
 
 risen from the dead, and freely forgave me all the tears 
 and anxiety I had caused them. 
 
 " My mind was softened by the caresses and kind ex- 
 pressions which I received from my parents, and when I 
 contrasted it with the late cruel treatment I had received 
 OH board of British ships, I resolved never to offend nor 
 grieve them more. For some time I kept my resolu- 
 tions ; but alas, the instability of all human resolutions ; 
 those caresses which had made me resolve to conduct 
 with propriety, and govern my temper, were soon treated 
 with contempt, and too often I repai(J their expressions of 
 kindness with rudeness and disdain. 
 
 " I now^ paid my addresses to a young woman of the 
 most amiable temper, who lived about a mile from my 
 father's. She was handsome ; and what was more, her 
 mind was cultivated, her temper sweet, and she possessed 
 all those qualities which adorn her sex, and render them a 
 blessing to mankind. My mother saw my attachment 
 with approbation, and felt anxious that I might attain a 
 woman of so sweet a temper, in hopes that it would 
 soften and ameliorate my own ; alas ! little did she think 
 of the wretchedness it would bring upon one who Avas 
 worthy of havnig her path strewed with flowers. 
 
 " In a short time after we were married, my temper, 
 which had kept within bounds, broke out with renewed 
 violence, and seemed to have gained fresh strength from 
 having been so long smothered. My wife bore it ^vith 
 meekness and resignation, and if ever she murmured it 
 was in secret ; when before me, her face was always clad 
 in smilcs^^r that gloomy sadness which would have 
 melted any neart but mine, which was steeled against all 
 the feelings of humanity. 
 
 *' We lived six years in this manner, in which time ^\e 
 
176 KER'S TRAVELS, 
 
 had two children ; they were lovely as then* mother, and 
 seemed to inherit all her good qualities. My temper 
 grew worse and worse, if it were possible, and at length 
 my wife told me, in mild terms, that if I continued to 
 conduct myself in such a manner, she should be under 
 the necessity of leaving me ; at this I flew at her with vi- 
 olence, and gave her several blows which she bore with 
 meekness ; my oldest child came accidentally between us, 
 and received a blow which laid it dead at my feet. All 
 the feelings of the mother were now roused ; she called 
 me an inhuman wretch, the murderer of my child, and 
 threatened to have me made a public example^ This 
 roused me from the stupor into which I had sunk 
 on seeing my child dead at my feet, and I determined at 
 once to rid myself of the only one who could possibly 
 bring me to punishment ; I seized her by the hair, and 
 In a few minutes she was no more." 
 
 Here he stopped, overcome with his emotion, and 
 covered his face with both his hands. I was so much 
 shocked and surprised that it was impossible for me to 
 ask him to proceed, or even to utter a syllable. At 
 length he recovered, and taking me by the hand, asked 
 me if I did not think him a wretch who ought to be ban- 
 ished from all society and ranked among the brutes. 
 Before I had time to reply, he exclaimed in a wild and 
 frantic manner, *' I know you do, and had you known 
 my beloved Maria you w^ould call me the greatest mon- 
 ster that ever lived : she loved me with tenderness, and 
 sought every opportunity of calming my temper and ren- 
 dering me happy ; but I wilfully refused to be pleased, 
 and took pleasure in contradicting and rendering unhappy 
 the best ^voman in the world." 
 
 As soon as he became sufficiently composed, I request- 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 177 
 
 ed him to inform me how he came among these Indians : 
 Jie told me that he immediately left the house, after se- 
 curing the doors, taking with him what cash he had on 
 Jiand, his youngest child having been left at his father's 
 some days before. He took passage on board a vessel 
 bound to New- York, which sailed at 12 o'clock that 
 night, and had a very quick passage. On his arrival he 
 A vent on board a vessel bound to New- Orleans, which 
 sailed the next day. After his arrival at New-Orleans, he 
 engaged with some men who were about ascending the 
 Missisippi. On his arrival at the Red river he left them, 
 and proceeded till he found this nation, who had given 
 him a friendly reception, and among whom he had con- 
 tinued ever since. 
 
 Having heard him with attention until he had finished 
 liis story, I thought it my duty before I left him to en- 
 deavour to convince him that his present course of life 
 was not calculated to render him happy here or hereafter. 
 I therefore seriously expostulated with him, and assured 
 him of the mercy which was always extended to those 
 who were truly penitent, and who, with the humble pub- 
 lican, approached the mercy seat with this prayer, '^ God 
 be merciful to me a sinner." You may now be enabled, 
 said I, by a variety of employments, to drive the thoughts 
 of a future state from your mind, and for a time to be- 
 come indifferent about your immortal interests ; but this 
 will not always be the case ; the period is approaching ^ 
 in which conscience, if not quite petrified, will be roused 
 from her torpor — in which she will sound the alarm, and 
 the soul, awakened from its sleep, feel the vanity of all 
 that is terrestrial. For what are all the pleasures of sense 
 to you, who are conscious of the depravity of your htfart, 
 and sensible of having heinously deviated from the path 
 
 23 
 
178 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 of duty — of having passed your life heedless of the coun- 
 sels of parental affection, or such as experience or religion 
 dictated. It is indeed possible that your mind ma}' be 
 diverted from a minute attention to the turpitude of its 
 own actions, but the delusion will not last for ever ; a man 
 cannot always trifle ; the hour of reflection will obtrude ; 
 and if you be determined not to anticipate, you will 
 shortly be compelled to realize the period when deception 
 and artifice will be impracticable ; when all terrestrial 
 scenes will be withdrawn ; when the soul, no longer 
 soothed by flattery, nor seduced by hope, must converse 
 with death ; and this too in a moment when the avenues 
 of mercy are closed for ever, and in \vhich your aflPrighted 
 soul will have to exclaim in the terrors of despair, " the 
 harvest is past, the summer is ended, and I am not 
 saved." 
 
 He thanked me for my advice, and seemed much af- 
 fected. I felt a depression of spirits which it was impos- 
 sible for me to overcome, and after assuring him I M^ould 
 Jiot impart it to the Indians, or any one who could do him 
 an injury, I departed for my hut, being unable any longer 
 to bear a conversation with him. When I entered my 
 luit I found die old chief, who had been waiting for me 
 some time ; he examined my back, which he found doing 
 very well, and in a few minutes after he left me. 
 
 I had been about two months with this tribe, during 
 which time I had made vain endeavours to discover where 
 their mine of platina \vas ; all my endeavours to obtain 
 information from the natives had not been attended with 
 success. I concluded the white man would be the most 
 likely to be won over to impart to me the pkice where the 
 muie was, and for this purpose I resolved to gain his con- 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 179 
 
 fidcnce by such presents as it was in my power to give, 
 and were most likely to me(;t his attention. 
 
 In a few days I gave him a knife, some strings of 
 beads, and showed him a quantity of specie, which I told 
 him was at his service ; at the same time drawing him 
 artfully ii'ito a conversation relative to the mine of platina, 
 showing him a small piece I had procured from one of 
 the natives, and requesting him to give me such informa- 
 tion as was in his pow^r respecting it. 
 
 He hesitated for some time, and at last observed, that 
 if it was known to the natives that he had told me, death, 
 and that of the most horrid kind, would be the conse- 
 quence. 1 assured him he had nothing to fear on that 
 account, as I should be so cautious in all my proceedings 
 as to render it impossible for me to be discovered. 
 He at last consented, telling me that the Indians only 
 worked it occasionally, and that it was situated about 
 twenty miles southwest of the town ; that if I had a 
 mind to go he would conduct me, but it would be ne- 
 cessary for us to start m the morning before daylight, that 
 the natives might not discover us ; I consented, and the 
 next morning was appointed for us to commence our 
 excursion. 
 
 During the remainder of the day I arranged my affairs, 
 and cleaned my rifle and pistol. I directed Edom, in 
 case any of the natives should make particular enquiry 
 in the morning for me, to tell them I had gone out, a 
 thing that was customary, but would return in the course 
 of the day. 
 
 I arose the next morning about 2 o'clock, and being 
 joined by . Davis, we commenced our journey. We 
 travelled with great caution and silence until we got out 
 <)f the village, £uid then struck into a path which led 
 
180 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 through the woods, and wound around the foot of the 
 mountain. The road soon began to gi'ow steep and diffi- 
 cult ; huge and craggy rocks, whose sharp points tore 
 our clothes and lacerated our bodies, formed a principal 
 part of the road. We proceeded with the greatest diffi- 
 culty, leading our horses, and clambering over steep pre- 
 cipices that were formed by the fissures of the rocks. 
 After a tedious journey we arrived at the top of one of 
 tlie mountaijis w^hich form this chain, and my guide now 
 informed me we were within a short distance of the ob- 
 ject of ni}^ pursuit. We sat down and rested ourselves 
 for some time ; and when tlie sun arose, hastened to ex- 
 plore the mine before we should be missed by the na- 
 tives. We soon arrived at its mouth, and began to de- 
 scend. I found that the natives had not worked it very 
 deep. It was situated at the top of one of those moun- 
 tains which skirt the village ; the mountain is very flat for 
 near a quarter of a mile, and covered with a rich long 
 grass, which is enamelled w ith a thousand flowers. The 
 vein extends from west to east, and is so rich that the 
 platina may be cut with a knife. Indeed, it would never 
 have been worked by the natives had not that been the 
 case ; for they have no implements suitable for working- 
 mines, nor any idea of what is necessary. 
 
 I took several pieces of the metal, which I found »to be 
 purer than any I had before seen. Davis begged me to 
 conceal it in such a manner as that it ^^^ould not be dis- 
 covered by the natives, and I assured him I should bury 
 it on my return to my hut. 
 
 We returned by the same way we had come, making 
 all possible haste for fear the natives would miss us and 
 suspect where we had gone. We had just cleared the 
 mountain, and were travelling slowly along the commoif 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 181 
 
 l)ath, when we were met by two Indians who were going 
 a fishing. On being told we had been hunting they pass- 
 ed us without suspicion, and I reached my hut in safety, 
 where I deposited my booty, and set about making ar~ 
 rangements for anotlier visit to the mine. 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 Author in detained from visiting the monntaifi by had 
 weather— Melancholy of the white Indian — Author 
 goes to the mine — Betrayed and taken by the natives — 
 Examination by the principal chiefs — Sentenced to be 
 shot — Rescued by the humanity of the Indian chief ^s 
 daughter — Joy ofEdom at my deliverance — Reasons 
 why I was betrayed — Verses by the Duchess of Devon - 
 sJiire — Author pursues his journey — More particulars 
 respecting the Mnacedeus tribe — Importance to the 
 United States of working mines* 
 
 The next morning it rained with violence; the storm 
 continued for four or five days, during which time I had 
 no opportunities of visiting the mine, but employed the 
 time in arranging my papers, and making particular ob- 
 servations on the manners and customs of the natives, the 
 construction of their huts, 8cc. 
 
 The white Indian visited me very constandy, and con- 
 versed on several topics with ease. As he spoke the 
 Indian language with fluency, he was of great help to me 
 «n nil my communications with the natives, among whom 
 
182 KERS TRAVELS. 
 
 he had considerable influence. He appeared to be a man 
 of good information, and would many times converse 
 with gaiety and good humour. He nevertheless would 
 frequently be sunk in the greatest despondency, and set 
 with his eyes fixed upon the ground for hours ; he would 
 then start from his seat, rush into the thickest part of the 
 woods, and remain for the rest of the day. The Indians 
 ceased to be surprised at his conduct, and the old chief 
 told me that they thought him troubled by the Great 
 Spirit ; I was of their opinion, for he must have felt 
 the gnawings of a guilty conscience, which is, to use the 
 emphatical language of Scripture, " the worm that never 
 dies." 
 
 As soon as the weather became fine I made a journey 
 to the mine. The plan I adopted was this : as soon as 
 the Indians retired to rest, myself and Edom would sally 
 fordi, and taking our horses which were grazing near the 
 skirts of the town, proceed with a ^quick pace till we 
 reached the foot of the mountain where the mine lay, 
 leave our horses and proceed on foot; and we generally 
 succeeded in returning by daylight. 
 
 The white Indian hjid never been with me to the mine 
 since the first time, and never attempted to converse with 
 me on the subject ; he would generally visit me once a 
 day. He came in one morning about 10 o'clock, unper- 
 ceived by me as I was ernployed in writing ; he stood some 
 time, and when I turned and discovered him, his counte- 
 nance was visibly altered from its common appearance ;' his 
 large eyes glared with unusual fierceness, and his whole 
 appearance betrayed emotions of the most violent kind. 
 As soon as he saw I noticed him, he advanced, and en- 
 deavoured to converse ; but he was evidently embar 
 rassed, and in a short time retired. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 183 
 
 111 the evening myself and Etlom again started for the 
 mine ; we had now made three journeys, and judging I 
 had as mucli as we could conveniently carry, was deter- 
 mined this should be the last. 
 
 The moon shone with unusual brightness, and I began 
 alread}^ to anticipate a rich reward for all my labours ; but 
 man is born for disappointments, and the moment his 
 cup appears full it is suddenly dashed from his lips, and 
 he is constrained to acknowledge that there is no perma- 
 nent happiness on this terrestrial globe. If we would 
 find happiness, we must look to that brighter and better 
 world which has the immediate presence of Him " with 
 whom there is no variableness nor shadow of turning." 
 
 I arrived at the mouth of the mine and was preparing 
 to descend, when Edom exclaimed that he saw some one 
 among the long grass which covered the mountain. I 
 immediately seized my rifle; but before I could get it in 
 a position to defend myself, I was surrounded by about 
 fifty Indians, ^vho immediately seized my gun and bound 
 me with thongs of buffalo skin. Edom was less fortu- 
 nate, for atttempting to make some resistance, they 
 knocked him on the head, and would in all probability- 
 have dispatched him had it not been for the positive com- 
 mand of a chief, who had orders to bring us alive before 
 the principal council. 
 
 We were cond«cted with much silence, the Indians 
 scarcely speaking a word. I attempted several times ta 
 converse with the chief who conducted us, but was al- 
 ways commanded to keep silence. We were conducted 
 by a nearer path than the one by which we came, and in 
 a short time arrived at the village. They put me in 
 a different hut from the one I had occupied, and placed 
 a strong guard at the door. I had fiere full leisure to 
 
184 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 reflect upon my situation, and expected that nothing but 
 the most lingering death awaited me. 
 
 In the morning I was taken from the hut and examin- 
 ed by the principal chiefs, who were seated around a fire 
 at the door of the old chief's hut. Not a person was to 
 be seen but the Indians who guarded me and the chiefs who 
 formed the council. Profound silence reigned, when the 
 old chief began his interrogations. He first inquired the 
 cause of my going to the mountain ; I told him I had 
 been a hunting a few days before, when I had accidentally 
 discovered some metal, and not knowing what it was I had 
 gone back to get some and see what was its value. The old 
 chief shook his head, and seemed not satisfied with the 
 answer. I was asked several other questions, which 
 principally related to leaving my country, reasons for 
 travelling among them, &c. I answered 4II of them as 
 well as I could, and after being about an hour in their 
 presence they conducted me again to my hut. 
 
 The next day I was permitted to remain where I was, 
 I requested leave to see the white Indian, which they 
 denied me, alledging as an excuse, that he was sick, and 
 could not see me ; my man Edom was however brought 
 to the hut, who assured me that he was free, as the In- 
 dians thought that he was not guilty, and would not have 
 gone had it not have been for me. 
 
 On the morning of the third day I was conducted from 
 my hut to the great square, where I found every inliab- 
 itant of the village who was over fourteen years of age. 
 In the centre of the square was placed a platform, on 
 Avhich sat the same chiefs who tried me a few days be- 
 fore ; on one side stood all the girls of the village, and on 
 the other all the warriors, who were armed with bo\vs and 
 arrows. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 185 
 
 1 was now brought forward, and the old chief addressed 
 me, charging me with a \vish to destroy their nation by 
 tempting white men to come among them ; he charged 
 me with falsehood in telling them that it was the first time 
 I had been at the mine, as I had more platina in my hut 
 than could be brought away at once ; he uncovered a 
 heap that lay at one end of the stage, and showed me all 
 I had brought from the mine ; he then told me that I 
 must prepare for death as I should be shot in about an, 
 hour. 
 
 My feelings cannot be described when this informa- 
 tion was communicated to me ; but it was grateful to 
 me to see that the greater part of the Indians, paiticu- 
 iarly the females, were much affected at the i|^verity of 
 the sentence ; indeed I had conducted myself with such 
 strict propriety, and made the natives such a number of 
 little presents that there was not one who had any ill wil! 
 towards me. 
 
 I requested to see Edom, and he was conducted to- 
 wards me. When the poor fellow understood I was to 
 be shot, he could scarce keep within the bounds of reason ; 
 he tore his hair, threw himself upon the ground, and it 
 was some time before I could induce him to hearken to 
 me ; at last he became more calm. I told him he must 
 endeavour to get back to New- Orleans, on my account, 
 as I wanted him to carry information to my friends ; I 
 told him that after my death he must collect such articles 
 as were allowed him of mine, particularly my papers, and 
 deliver them to Dr. De Fludcar. :* he promised me he 
 would. I then requested him to leave me, as my time 
 was short, and I had some preparation to make before I 
 went hence to " that bourne from whence no traveller re- 
 turns." 
 
 24 
 
186 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 He now left me, and I turned my attention to that 
 Being in whose hands are the " issues of Hfe and death.'* 
 Ahhough I had by no means been faithful to the divine 
 commands, and had, in eommon with all mankind, gone 
 far from the path ^vhich is marked out by strict rectitude 
 and propriety, I nevertheless knew he was a God who 
 cast none off in the hour that they approached his foot- 
 stool, and humbly asked forgiveness of their transgres- 
 sions ; for who was to set bounds to Infinite Mercy ? or, 
 where is the humble, contrite penitent, who went away 
 from the temple of Omnipotence, without receiving some 
 token of the Divine favour ? I prayed with fervency^ re- 
 lying entirely on God for protection, knowing it was in 
 his power to work out my deliverance ; and if it was 
 thought necessary for me to bow my head to the king of 
 terrors, I exclaimed vi^itii the divine Jesus, " Thy will 
 Jiot mine be done." 
 
 I arose from my devotions with calmness, and awaited 
 the determinations of my judges. In a few minutes the 
 chief arose, and by a motion of his hand, announced the 
 time had arrived when I was to be led to execution ; they 
 advanced and bound my hands with thongs ; they then 
 led me to a stake, and fastened me to it by another thong ; 
 six of the natives ^vere arranged in front of me, ready to 
 draw their arrows to the head and pierce me to the heart. 
 At this moment a circumstance occurred, as unlooked for 
 by me, as it was singular and interesting. 
 
 The moment that the arrow^s were drawn to their 
 heads, and the Indians ready to execute their fatal sen- 
 tence, the youngest daughter of the principal chief ad- 
 vanced with dignity in her steps, and stepping before the 
 Indians, waved her hand for them to desist. The bows 
 were immediately bent to the ground. She then advanced 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 187 
 
 towards me, and cutting the thong ^hich bound me to 
 the stake, with a knife I had given her a few days before, 
 she led me forward to the platform on which tlie chiefs 
 sat ; she then addressed them with earnestness, frequently 
 pointing to me and then to the sun. After she had con- 
 tinued for some time in this manner, the old chief arose, 
 and spoke a few words, when the Indians shouted and 
 danced widi great violence. They w^ould have ad\ anced 
 towards me had not the chief in a loud and commanding 
 tone ordered them to desist and retire to their huts ; this 
 they did with reluctance. When they had all gone, my 
 deliverer took me by the hand, and led me to her hut ; 
 she gave me some refreshment, but told me 1 must de- 
 part on the next evening. I was very glad to hear this, 
 and told her I should cheerfully comply ^vith any thing 
 she should deem proper. The exertions of the day liad 
 much fatigued me, and I felt happy to be left alone. 
 
 It is impossible to describe the joy of Edom at my 
 deliverance from almost certain death : he had stood at a 
 short distance from me, and beheld with silent despair 
 the arrows which were to deprive him for ever of my 
 guidance and direction ; and he beheld with the most 
 lively satisfaction the manner in w^hich I had been re%^ 
 cued. 
 
 It may be necessary for me to account in some manner 
 for the detection which caused all my present misfortunes. 
 It will be recollected that I mentioned my being seen 
 writing by the white man j he seemed much surprised at 
 it, and I observed that in his communications with me 
 afterwards he was not so free as before. He once asked 
 me what I had been writing ; I told him it was a memo- 
 randum which I -kept of my journey, and showed him 
 some parts of it ; this rendered him still more gloom v. 
 
188 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 and for some time before my being taken up lie had 
 avoided visiting me, alledging that he was unwell. His 
 gloomy and suspicious temper had led him to imagine 
 that I was making observations for the purpose of doing 
 him an injury ; he therefore resolved to give information 
 to the natives of my having discovered their* mines, know- 
 ing that the consequence of my detection would be im- 
 mediate death. Although I did not see him after my be- 
 ing brought from the mine, yet I had reasons for be- 
 lieving that he directed all their councils ; and the dis- 
 covery of the ore which I had buried sufficiently proved 
 it, as it was secreted in such a manner as to elude the 
 most rigid scrutiny. 
 
 I remained in the hut all ^he next day, during which 
 time my kind benefactress visited me, and endeaA oured, 
 by a thousand means, to cheer my spirits ; her kindness 
 was truly disinterested, as I had but very little acquaint- 
 ance with her, and brought to my mind that interesting- 
 occurrence which is related by Mr. Park in his Travels 
 through the interior of Africa, the leading circumstances 
 of which are so beautifully versified by the Duchess of 
 Devonshire : 
 
 ** Tlie loud wind roared, tlie rain fell fastj 
 The white man yielded to the blast ; 
 Jle sat him down beneath our tree. 
 For weary, sad'and faint was he. 
 
 CHORUS. 
 
 The white man shall our pity share ; 
 Alas ! no wife or mother's care 
 For him the milk or corn prepare. 
 
 " The storm is o'er, the tempest past, 
 A nd mercy's voice has husVd the blast ; 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 189 
 
 The wind is heard in whispers low. 
 The white man far away must go. 
 But ever in his mind will bear 
 Itcmembrance of the negro's care. 
 
 CHORirS. 
 
 The white man shall our pity share; 
 Alas ! no wife or mother's care 
 For him the corn or milk prepare." 
 
 In the evening two of the brothers of my benefactress 
 came to the hut, ready to conduct me on my journey* 
 ?»'Iy horses having been brought up by Edom, and all 
 things being in readiness, we started as soon as the moon 
 arose. They conducted me a considerable distance on 
 my way, and when they ^vere ready to leave me I made 
 them presents of beads and some other articles, with 
 >vhich they were highly satisfied. 
 
 I now determined to steer a west southwesterly course, 
 as I wished to reach the confines of Mexico, from which 
 I was still a considerable distance. It was now the 
 12th of October, and I calculated it would take me at 
 least two months to reach the place of my destination, as 
 in man}^ places the ways were almost impassable. . 
 
 Before I proceed I will give a more particular account 
 of the Mnacedeus Indians than I have hitherto done : 
 tlie country they inhabit is situated about 350 miles 
 southeast from Mexico ; the extent of their tribe I was 
 never able to ascertain, which was partly owing to my 
 ignorance of their language, and partly to a jealousy which 
 they have imbibed against all strangers. That part of 
 the country which I saw was fertile, the soil being very 
 iich. The growth of the forest is black and white oak, 
 hickory, walnut, white pine, cedar,* spruce pine, and a 
 
 * TIic cedars are very majestic ; I measured one uhicU was four f<'Ct in diame- 
 'cr and upwards of thirty-eight fcrt clear of limbs. 
 
190 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 variety of others which I did not particularly notice. 
 The lofty magnolia rears its magnificent head far above 
 all others ; it is the most beautiful tree which grows, and 
 is deservedly celebrated by travellers and naturalists. 
 
 These Indians have two towns which I saw, one con- 
 taining about 150 huts, and the other about twice that 
 number. The huts are constructed in a neater manner 
 than any I had before seen ; they consist of poles driven 
 into the ground a proper distance, in proportion to the 
 size of the hut ; these are fastened at the top with strong 
 thongs of buffalo hide, or twigs of trees ; they are then 
 interlaced with strips of bark, which are rubbed smooth, 
 and some of them stained Avith the juice of berries, which 
 gives them a very neat appearance. They have a raised 
 bench of earth all around their huts, on which they sleep 
 at night. Their cooking utensils are few in number, as 
 they dry the principal part of their provisions in the air. 
 
 Their arms, marriages, burials, 8cc. I have already 
 described, and shall therefore conclude with a few obser- 
 vations on the tribe in general. They are honest, and as 
 far as the nature of a savage life will admit, are industri- 
 ous ; their dispositions are naturally mild, and on the 
 whole they are far from being so savage as many tribes 
 who are situated on the borders of the Red river. They 
 are jealous of admitting white men among them, although 
 I have reason to think they have been visited by very 
 fev/ ; tlieir jealousy is principally on account of their 
 mine of platina, which is encouraged by the white man 
 who is settled among them. 
 
 Platina is a metal which has been but recently discov- 
 ered, but is very valuable, and well worthy the attention 
 of government. I estimated that the mine would yield 
 upwards of a million of pounds sterling Morth of platina .: 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 191 
 
 for the veins are so rich, that without any proper tools, I 
 got more than a hundred and twenty pounds of pure 
 metal, in the three visits I made to the mine ; and that 
 under every disadvantage, and without remaining more 
 than an hour each time. 
 
 America, from the infancy of its settlement, has been 
 under the necessity of drawing a vast quantity of her ne- 
 cessaiy articles from the different European countries. 
 Mines which would have yielded us a rich and profitable 
 traffic, or the means of establishing manufactories, have 
 been little attended to. It is hoped, however, that the 
 encouragement of our government will be afforded to dis- 
 coveries of this kind, and enable us to retain those large 
 sums which are annually expended for articles which 
 from long use are deemed necessary. 
 
192 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 CHAP. XVIII. 
 
 Author pursues his journey — General observations on the 
 country — Large quantities of musquetoes — Some ac- 
 count of the soil — Meet a party of Indians — Accompany 
 them to their village— Description of it — Description: 
 of their huts — Superiority of their trade to that of the 
 
 Mnacedeus — Excellent horses Refections on the 
 
 benefits arising from agriculture and civilization — 
 Author pursues his journey — Description of odoriferous 
 shrubs and trees found on the mountains — Edom taken 
 sick — Delay in our journey — Recovery — Proceed on. 
 our journey, 
 
 October, 1812. I proceeded on my journey widi a 
 light heart, for the imminent danger which I had escaped 
 softened die disappointment I at first suftered from the 
 discovery which took place relative to die mine of platina, 
 and I now congratulated myself that I was in the land of 
 the living. 
 
 I had gained nothing to recompensef me for the deten- 
 tion on my journey ; on the contrary, I was considerable 
 out of pocket from the different presents I had made the 
 chiefs and others ; — but still, that spirit of adventure 
 which had first induced me to travel — that wisli to 
 aggrandize myself, had not yet abated ; I still went for- 
 Avard, with an earnest wish to encounter something which 
 AAOuld amply rewai'd me for all my trouble and" disap- 
 pointments. 
 
 The country through which I passed became more 
 mountainous, and tiie coiu*se I was steering would lead 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 193 
 
 mc over that part of the mountain which hcs to the south 
 southwest of the Mnacedcus tribe. As I occasionally 
 ascended a hill, a fine extensive prospect opened to view. 
 Large prairies, bounded on each side l^y forests, whose 
 towering trees, nodding before the passing wind, added 
 beauty and grandeur to the scene. I had occasionally a 
 distant view of the iofty Andes, whose tops are per- 
 petually " clad in clouds." This view is one of the 
 most beautiful and romantic in this part of the coun- 
 try. 
 
 After travelling about twenty-five miles, we encamped 
 for the night. The musquetoes were very thick, and so 
 large that I was obliged to use my netting in order to get 
 any sleep. 
 
 In the morning I pursued my journey, and about ten 
 o'clock we came to a pond, in which were a species of 
 duck, one of which I shot and found it very good eating. 
 We likewise found plenty of roots which serve the natives 
 for food, and resolved to try the experiment of boiling 
 some of them in my kettle ; they answered very well, 
 being almost equal to a potatoe. This root is long, and 
 about as large as a common sized radish ; it has a 
 tough skin of a ligfit brown colour, w^hich is easily 
 scraped off. There are a variety of roots which are fit 
 for food in this country ; but as the country abounds in 
 all kinds of animal food, they are not much eaten by the 
 natives. 
 
 Towards evening we had a severe shower of rain, which 
 rendered it necessary for me to encamp, and as it was 
 late I thought it best to remain here all night. The rains 
 had now' become more frequent, as I approached tne 
 mountains, from which run a thousand little rivulets which 
 give fertility to -the vallics below. It sometimes happens, 
 
 25 
 
194 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 however, that there is no rain here for several months, 
 but at such seasons the dews are very heavy. 
 
 For three or four days I journeyed through a country 
 much hke that whJch I have been describing, and for that 
 reason I shall avoid particularizing each day's route, as it 
 might be tiresome to the reader. The soil of that part 
 of the country tlirough which I now passed was of a 
 clayey kind, intermixed with small round stones, and a 
 few shells, which upon examination 1 found very similar 
 to our common cockle shell, only something flatter. As 
 this was more than 1700 miles from the sea, it is a matter 
 of much curiosity how shells of tliat description came 
 there. 
 
 On the morning of the fifth day, after travelling about 
 ten miles, we were suddenly surrounded by about forty 
 Indians, of a tribe I had never before seen. They wert 
 ai'med with bows, arrows, and a kind of tomahawk, 
 made of copper, which was suspended in a belt fastened 
 round their waist. They approached me with caution^ 
 and asked me from whence I came. I informed them by 
 signs, and likewise where I was going. They then in- 
 vited me to their town, which they gave me to under- 
 stand was at no great distance, and just on the route I 
 wished to pursue. I accordingly accepted of their invi- 
 tation, and in a few minutes they were mounted on horses 
 and ready to proceed. 
 
 They informed me they had been out for the purpose 
 of hunting, and breaking their horses, of which they have 
 great numbers, and of a colour peculiarly valuable ; they 
 are of a bright cream colour, very large and well made, 
 all of them being from fifteen and a half to sixteen or 
 seventeen hands high. The Indians appeared to Vmder- 
 stand their value, for upon my offering to bargain M^itft 
 
KER'S TRAVELS- 195 
 
 them, they told me they would not part Avidi them 
 unless I could pay them in silver ; and 1 afterwards un- 
 derstood that they traded with the Spaniards, who came 
 every year to purchase of them, and took away all they 
 could spare. I afterwards saw some of the same horses 
 in Mexico, where the}^ were held in high estimation. 
 
 On my arrival at their village, which was situated 
 about five miles from where I first saw them, I was met 
 by all the women and children which were in tlie village ; 
 they appeared to be healdiy, aiul received me with great 
 good humour. I was conducted to their chief, who was 
 an old man, apparently about seventy years of age. He 
 was strong and vigorous, and appeai'ed to possess more 
 strength and sprightliness than is usual at that age. 
 
 The village consisted of about sixty huts, and proba- 
 bly contained one hundred and sixty persons. The tribe, 
 as I understood, was called the Obodeus. The men were 
 for the most part well built, strong, and hardy looking ; 
 the women were smaller than those of the Mnacedeus 
 tribe, and appeared to possess more sprightliness and vi- 
 vacity"!: Most of the labour falls upon the women, such 
 as making utensils for cooking, and snares- for catching 
 birds, drying meat, and various other kinds of drudgery ; 
 whilst the men prepare their arms, hunt, and go to war. 
 They evidently consider their wives more in the light of 
 slaves than compianions, as the husband at his meals not 
 only helps himself, but all his children and whoever he 
 may have to eat with him, before he allo\vs his wife to 
 take any. 
 
 Their huts are constructed something similar to those 
 of the Mnacedeus tribe ; but they do not stain the 
 bark with which they cover them with berries, and they 
 sometimes make use of buffalo hide instead of bark. 
 
196 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 Many of their huts are much larger than any I saw among 
 the Mnacedeus, and in the large square instead of a stage 
 they have four poles erected, which have a covering of 
 buffalo hide on the top. 
 
 In traffic these Indians are much superior to the Mnace- 
 deus tribe, as there is an annual communication between 
 them and the Mexicans, who barter with them for furs of 
 various kinds, bufflilo meat, and horses, and give in ex- 
 change knives, beads, tomahawks, made of copper, which 
 are very hard and preferred by the natives to iron, some 
 pieces of cloth, and a liquor much esteemed among them, 
 called mate, which, when drank to excess, is very injuri- 
 ous to the constitution, bringing on nervous diseases, 
 which in a short time terminate the life of the natives. 
 
 After remaining here a few days I succeeded in 
 making an advantageous exchange widi the natives for 
 two of their fine horses, and proceeded on my journey. 
 The violence of the heat had in some degree abated, and 
 I was much afraid the rainy season would set in before I 
 could reach the confines of the Mexican empire ; but it 
 was necessary that I should travel in such a manner as 
 not to wear down my Jiorses before I reached the end of 
 my journc} , and on that account I never exceeded thirty- 
 fi\e miles in a d^y during the whole of my tour. 
 
 In travelling over some of the most fertile parts of this 
 countiy, I have seen much to admire and much to la- 
 ment. The richness of the soil, and the mildness of the 
 climate, are inviting to every one, and we cannot but ad- 
 mire the magnificent hand which has so plentifully strew- 
 ed this fine country with some of the richest of nature's 
 gifts ; yet, on the other hand, we cannot but lament that 
 this country is inhabited by a race of savages who are in- 
 sensible to the advantages they enjoy, and who take up 
 
KER'S THAVELS. 197 
 
 an extent of territory for their support which is capable, 
 under cultivation, of supplying five times the number of 
 inhabitants with all the necessaries, and many of the lux- 
 uries of life. The tribes who now inhabit this country 
 are undoubtedly its aboriginal inhabitants, and may with 
 propriety argue, that that Being who spake unnumbered 
 worlds into existence placed them here, and that they have 
 a r ight to a residence till he calls them hence. But this 
 would be contrary to that wisdom which is uniform in 
 the works of the Almighty, and therefore, as soon as the 
 country was known to us, it became our duty, as a na- 
 tion, to endeavour to instil into the minds of its inhabi- 
 tants the seeds of virtue, and so far instruct them in the 
 art of agriculture as to enable them to support themselves 
 with comfort on a much smaller space of territory. 
 If we succeeded in these benevolent objects, we should 
 see millions of happy beings living on the same extent 
 of country which now supports only a few thousands, and 
 enjoying every thing which is necessary to render the life 
 of man agreeable. 
 
 I now travelled with as much rapidity as the roads 
 would allow, which were for the most part through rich 
 and entensive prairies, clothed with a long grass that ren- 
 dered the travelling in many places heavy and unpleas- 
 ant. 
 
 On the 6th of November I began to ascend the moun- 
 tains, over which it was necessary to pass, and found 
 them in many places steep and difficult* of ascent. On 
 these mountains are many trees which are worthy of no- 
 tice, on account of the odoriferous nature of their 
 gums. They are mentioned by the Abbe Clavegero, iu 
 his valuable History of Mexico. " From some of them," 
 )iQ.says, *^ a balsam is produced, not in the least inferior 
 
19S KER'S TRAVELS, 
 
 to the celebrated balsam of Mecca ; it is of a reddish 
 black or yellowish ^vhite colour, of a sharp, bitter taste, 
 and of a strong but most grateful odour. The first par- 
 cel of this balsam brought from Mexico to Rome was 
 sold at one hundred ducats per ounce, and was, by the 
 Apostolic See, declared to be matter fit for chrism, 
 though different from that of Mecca." I saw another 
 tree whose wood was highly aromatic, and so hard that it 
 was with great difficulty 1 cut it with a . sharp hatchet ; 
 the leaves are small and of a yellowish cast, the flowers 
 small and white, and the fruit very similar to that of the 
 laurel. 
 
 Edom had hitherto enjoyed perfect health through all 
 the fatigues and perils which he had endured, one short 
 period of illness excepted. He never once complained, 
 or murmured at his lot. His constitution was strong and 
 robust, and he seemed formed by nature to endure hard- 
 ships. He had now for some days been visibly grooving 
 ill, and although he had not absolutely complained, his 
 looks were sufficient to convince me he was far from be- 
 ing well : this evening he uttered a slight complaint, but 
 would not consent to take any medicine. 
 
 In tlie morning I found Edom so unwell as to be 
 scarcely able to stir. I was much alarmed at his situa- 
 tion, and endeavoured to affiDrd him such kind of assist- 
 ance as ^vould be of service in relieving his malady. 
 With some difficulty I succeeded in getting him into a 
 profuse perspiration, and he slept soundly the following- 
 night. The next morning he seemed to be much better, 
 but was so weak as rendered it imprudent for him to pro- 
 ceed. I employed myself in arranging my papers and 
 cleaning my rifle. 
 
 On the morning of the third day my negro appeared 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 199 
 
 somewhat better, and expressed a strong desire to pro- 
 ceed, aldiough it should be but slowly, and only a short 
 distance ; we accordingly got up our horses, and pro- 
 ceeded over steep and rugged parts of the mountain. 
 The passage was rendered difficult by many craggy 
 points of rocks, which were very sharp and dangerous. 
 We had now arrived in that part where I expected to 
 meet with Spaniards or other Europeans, who would be 
 able to give me information of the rout I must take to 
 enter the province of the Otomies, through the principal 
 towns of which I intended to proceed until I reached 
 Mexico. 
 
 The next day, after proceeding some miles on mv 
 journey, I met a trader who had been out buying furs ; 
 lie was a Portuguese, but spoke the Spanish language 
 with fluency. He informed me that I must steer more 
 to the south, and that I was distant about two days' jour- 
 ney. He also said that the provinces were in a state of 
 insurrection, in consequence of the oppressive measures 
 of the Spanish government, which required more from 
 the people than they were able to endure. He however 
 said, that he believed a stranger might pass unmolested 
 among them, if they had no suspicion of his acting under 
 the orders of the Spanish government, of which they were 
 very jealous. 
 
200 KER'S TRAA'^ELS. 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 Author ejiters the Mexican empire — General account of 
 the province of Tula — Description of the town of Tula 
 — Politeness of the commandant — Visits the arsetial — 
 Description of it-— Description oj the court house — 
 Author visits a monaster^/ — Friendly reception from 
 the superior — Description of its chapel — Return to 
 town — Set out for Xilotepec — Information respecting 
 the interior provinces of the Mexican empire — Arrival 
 at Xilotepec, 
 
 On the 26th of November I entered the confines of the 
 Mexican empire, within about twenty miles of Tula, 
 which was once much larger and mor^ populous than at 
 present. I proceeded by easy journeys, and encamped 
 for the night in a fertile plain which was covered with a 
 rich luxuriant grass. The climate is very mild, and it 
 would have been unnecessary for me to use any covering 
 at night, but for the heavy dews, which here constantly 
 set in at sunset, and continue until daylight ; they are so 
 great, that for a considerable time after the sun is risen, it 
 is obscured with the mist which arises from the earth. 
 
 In the moniing I again set forward, and after proceed- 
 ing through a country agreeably diversified with hills and 
 vallies I came in sight of Tula, and in about two hours 
 more I arrived within the to\\'n. I was much pleased 
 with the appearance of order and regularity which were 
 conspicuous in every part of the to\vn, although the 
 greater part of its inhabitants are native Mexicans. The 
 
KER^S TRAVELS. 201 
 
 Spaniards who reside liere, are principally the officers of 
 government, and those whom the desire of gain has drawn 
 hither for the purpose of traffic. The town, nevertheless, 
 has a very neat and compact appearance, and is well reg- 
 ulated in many of its internal arrangements. The inhab- 
 itants are industrious, and appear to be happy and con- 
 tented ; for such is the nature of man, that oppression 
 oftentimes so far weakens the powers of the mind, that he 
 stoops contentedly under the burden, and tamely submits 
 to the greatest indignities without repining. 
 
 On my arriviil at the town I waited on the comjnan- 
 dant, who informed me that there were mules which 
 would set out for Xilotepec in a few days, and I could 
 have an opportunity of going on with company, which 
 would be more agreeable than to go alone, and would at 
 the same time be a safeguard against the wild beasts, and 
 other dangers which are common on the road ; I thanked 
 him for his civility. ' He invited me to dinner, and I could 
 not with propriety refuse. I found him a very hospitable 
 and intelligent man. His family consisted of his wife 
 and three daughters, the youngest of whom appeared to 
 be about seventeen years of age. They were delicately- 
 made ; their complexions were a light olive, which ren- 
 dered them very interesting. They received me with 
 much good humour, and during the whole time I was 
 with them, they were remarkably cheerful and animated. 
 They expressed themselves with elegance, and a degree 
 of information pervaded their conversation which is not 
 often found in the discourses of Spanish ladies. 
 
 After dinner a Wcilk to the arsenal was proposed, and as 
 it met with no opposition from the ladies, we proceeded 
 to examine it. This is a depot for all the arms of the 
 adjacent countrv, and is said to contain 60,000 stands ; 
 
202 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 but I am confident there was not half this number when 
 ' 1 was there. 
 
 The arsenal is a large quadrangular building, built of 
 brick. The arms are a great part of them packed in 
 chests, and the remainder are put up in racks which 
 stand against the side of the wall. The building is 
 divided-into four apartments. The first is a large room, 
 about 125 feet in length and 17 in breadth, in which are 
 ranged all the arms that arc fit for service ; the chests 
 Avhich contain part of them are placed on each side, im- 
 mediately under the racks which contain those that are 
 exposed to view ; they are all bright and make a hand- 
 some appearance, although their locks are so badly con- 
 structed that not one in ten can be depended on. In the 
 next room, Avhich is much smaller, arc all the accoutre- 
 ments, such as cartridge-boxes, bayonets, &cc. ; they are 
 all piled in a heap, so that they 'require overhauling once 
 or twice a month to keep them from mildew, and 'from 
 rats and other vermin which infest the place. I ventured 
 to suggest to the conunandant that it woidd be well to 
 adopt a more rigorous policy j he shrugged up his shoul- 
 ders, ajid replied that it would be imprudent to adopt any 
 new plans relative to the arsenal, as the people ^vere jeal- 
 ous of the government, and would view It as an infringe- 
 ment of their rights. In the third room are the materials 
 proper for mining, raising fortifications, &:c. ; they are 
 well constructed, and in better order than miglit be ex- 
 pected. We passed other rooms, in Avhich were, a num- 
 ber of workmen cleaning and repairing locks, gunbafrels, 
 &c. In the yard there were about ninety pieces of 
 cannon, all brass, whose carriages ^vcre rotting for Mant 
 of .Tcood usage. Here were a number of 'workshops, ir 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 203 
 
 which hands were employed in making ramrods, gun- 
 barrels, and otlier articles for die arsenal. 
 
 On my return I took leave of the commandant and his 
 agreeable family, and returned to my lodgings, where I 
 found PLdom who had been out purchasing some neces- 
 sary clothing, as his journey had completely divested 
 him of all his apparel, and he had for some time been 
 obliged to wear a pair of pantaloons made of deer skin. 
 His appearance was much altered for the better, and he 
 seemed to be not a little proud of it. 
 
 The town of Tula is well situated, and commands a 
 handsome and extensive prospect, being situated on a 
 hill which rises from a rich and extensive valley in a grad- 
 ual and easy ascent ; it is well built, and contains about 
 2,700 houses, and a population of near 14,000 souls. The 
 streets are many of them wide and paved, and where that 
 is not the case the sides are covered witlf mats for foot 
 passengers to walk on. There are nine Roman Catholic 
 churches in the town, two of which are large and well 
 built, of brick which are dried in the sun. In one of 
 them, called the church of St. Dominic, is a figure of our 
 Saviour on the cross, of solid silver, and the cross is 
 richly studded with precious stones. They have a very 
 excellent toned organ, but are in want of some one who 
 understands playing on it. 
 
 The court house, in which all the public business is 
 done, has nothing to recommend it to the attention of the 
 traveller. It is built of brick and stone, and contains the 
 hall of justice, in which all the criminal and other causes 
 are tried — the audience chamber of the province, where 
 they meet to adjust the concerns of the province, inquire 
 into the conduct of their ofiicers, &c. — a clerk's office, 
 two treasury rooms, in which are collected the reve- 
 
^04 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 nue of the country, and the sums which are annually sent 
 to Mexico, amounting in all to about 90,000 pounds 
 sterling. 
 
 Over the river Taltacasae,Vhich runs at the foot of the 
 town, there is a bridge constructed ; it has three arches, 
 one of which is 126 feet, and is a handsome and well 
 built bridge. 
 
 This city, or town, is the see of an archbishop ; it car- 
 ries on a considerable trade with the towns of Xilotepec 
 and Mexico. The articles of trade, are conveyed on the 
 backs of mules, and they sometimes go in companies of 
 iive or six hundred. The police of the town subjects 
 all travellers to the trouble of waiting on the comman- 
 dant within three days after their arrival, or they must 
 suftcr the penalty of a fine. 
 
 I was now informed by the commandant, that the cara- 
 van with which I intended setting out, would start on 
 that day week, and I immediately commenced making 
 such preparations as would enable me to go with them^ 
 as it would not only be the safest, but the quickest way in 
 which I could travel. 
 
 I had understood that there was a monastery of native 
 Mexicans situated a few leagues from the town, and I 
 requested the commandant to give me leave to go and see 
 them ; he very readily consented, and agreed to accom- 
 pany me himself, but unexpected business the next 
 morning rendered it impossible, and he sent his brother, 
 a young man of miich information, and from whom J 
 received many valuable particulars. 
 
 We left the town at the west end, and proceeded by a 
 w inding path up the mountain, which was here so steep 
 that it was impossible to go direcdy forward. Aftci 
 proceeding for about two leagues we stopped in a plaii* 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 205 
 
 oF about a quarter of a mile in extent, to breakfast, and 
 here the eye was regaled with a prospect truly romantic. 
 Just below us appeared the town, whose spires rising in 
 lofty magnificence seemed to tell us that there stood the 
 temple of God, while a little further on tlie winding of 
 the river, which was here but partially seen, gave an in- 
 teresting feature to the whole landscape. 
 
 After viewing this prospect for some time, we pro- 
 ceeded on our journey, and about noon reached the mon- 
 astery. It is situated on a level plain of about a mile in 
 extent, from which the mountain rises in an abrupt man- 
 ner, and shelters it behind from the north wind, while to 
 the south and west it is entirely open. A thick grove of 
 trees at no great distance from the house, gave a sober 
 cast to the whole scenery, and cooled the air with their 
 gentle fannings. 
 
 On our approaching the house we were met by an old 
 man, who saluted us with a friendly bow, and welcomed 
 us to the habitation. He entered into conversation with 
 ease, and displayed much knowledge of the country 
 which he inhabited ; I understood he had once been in a 
 considerable employment under the government. On 
 entering the house we perceived the greatest regularity 
 and neatness, and were every where saluted by the monks 
 with cordiality and frankness. The old man led us to 
 the refectory, where we were received by the superior, a 
 man about seventy-five years of age, as I was afterwards 
 told, although his brow was fi-ee from wrinkles, and he 
 had a freshness in his countenance which would have 
 warranted me in supposing him not more than forty-five 
 or fifty. 
 
 We were now conducted over the building, which 
 'msisted of the refectory, in which the friars meet for 
 
205 KER'S TRAVELS'. 
 
 breakfast, for receiving visitors, &:c. ; a large hall, which 
 is made use of as a dining room, and a room in which 
 Divine service is performed ^vhen the superior is unwell, 
 whose room opens into it. The rooms are all simple in 
 tiieir construction, being hung cither with black or blue 
 cloth. The only furniture made use of is a few rush- 
 bottomed chairs, and stools to pray upon. 
 
 If the interior apartments which ar(^ used by die monks 
 are simply furnished, the inside of tlie church makes am- 
 ple amends, by the elegance and splendour of its decora- 
 tions, which are profusely scattered over every part of it. 
 It is a large and spacijDus room ; the gallery is supported 
 by marble pillars, whiclf^are very line, and brought from 
 a quany at some distance. Nearly in the centre is an 
 cles-imt reading' desk, from which the monks hear a dis- 
 course every Sunday ; it is of marble which has an exr 
 quisitely smooth polish, and is supported by angels Of j 
 solid silver with trumpets in their hands, representing the 
 four winds. But the altar is superior to any thing I had 
 ever seen in Europe ; it was of massive silver, and the 
 railing enclosed a space of about thirty-six feet. In the 
 centre stood a table covered with a cloth of gold, on 
 whicli was placed a box inlaid with precious stones, con- 
 taining the oil for extreme unction and the sacramental 
 bread. Over the altar is a figure of the Virgin Mary 
 dressed in a most superb manner, her robe being of cloth 
 of gold, and richly studded with diamonds and pearls : 
 on her head is a crown of jewels, which is very rich, and 
 worth at least 10,000 pounds. In the niches are figures 
 of the Apostles, dressed in rich robes of blue and green 
 silk, Avith crowns on each of their heads. Up stairs there 
 is a very fine organ, which however is out of repair, and 
 has not been used for many years. 
 
KEIl*rTllAVELS. 207 
 
 On returning to the refectory we found a cold collation, 
 which had been prepared for us by the orders of tlie su- 
 perior, who was very polite to us during the ^vhole of our 
 stay. When we had eaten a slight repast, we mounted 
 our Iprses and set forward for town, where we arrived 
 about dark, and I retired to my lodgings much pleased 
 widi my excursion. 
 
 In the morning I visited some of the shops, which arc 
 kept with great neatness, and make a very handsome 
 show. They are principally stocked with light articles, 
 which are brought by the convoys from Europe, such as 
 silks, muslins, nankeens, &c. which are all of the first 
 quality, and sold very cheap. I received information 
 from the commandant that the caravan would start at 
 night about twelve o'clock, accompanied by a request 
 that I would spend the afternoon with him. I ordered 
 Edom to get things in readiness to start, and proceeded 
 to the commandant's house, where I was well entertmned 
 until the hour came for my departure, when I bade my 
 friends an affectionate adieu and left them. 
 
 We met with nothirig remarkable during the first day's . 
 travel, and encamped for the night in a rich and exten- 
 sive meadow, which furnished ample pasturage for our 
 horses and mules, whilst a stream of water refreshed us 
 Avith a cooling draught. In the morning we proceeded, 
 and about noon passed through the small town of Tzom- 
 panco, which contains about 90 houses and 250 inhabi- 
 tants ; here is a church, \vhich is built of brick dried in 
 the sun. After proceeding about fifteen miles we en- 
 camped for the night. 
 
 In tlie morning we pursued our journey, and I had 
 now leisure to observe the different persons who com- 
 
208 KBll'S TRAVELS. 
 
 posed our cavalcade : I found tliem of a mixed kmci, 
 some Spaniards, some Mexicans, and a few of the mix- 
 ed breed. The principal part of them were going on for 
 the purpose of trading, and had either horses or merchan- 
 dize proper for trafficking. 
 
 Among my fellow travellers there was one who was an 
 Italian by birth, but had been some years in this country. 
 His information was very extensive, and he had travelled 
 in N^arious directions over the country. He informed me 
 that the soil was fruitful, producing Indian corn, wheat, and 
 many other kinds of grain, in abundance ; the native fruits 
 he said were so plenty, that the inhabitants were not under 
 the necessity of cultivating them. Many of the provin- 
 ces through which he had travelled had the appearance of 
 great wealth ; and the furniture and decorations of many 
 of the houses were cosdy and magnificent. He likewise 
 informed me he had visited a tribe of Indians called the 
 Apaches, which he represented as a brave, warlike, reso- 
 lute people, fond of liberty, and the inveterate enemies of 
 tyranny and oppression. They had lately diought them- 
 selves aggrieved, and had been very troublesome to the 
 Spanish government ; they had done much mischief be- 
 fore they submitted, but were now curbed by strong 
 garrisons. He informed me that when the Spaniards 
 first went among these Indians, they found them well, 
 clothed, their lands cultivated, tlieir villages neat, and 
 their houses built with stone ; their flocks were also nu- 
 merous, and they lived more comfortably than most of 
 the other savages ; as to their religion they were idolaters, 
 and \vorshippcd the sun and moon, but whether they of- 
 fered human sacrifices he did not know, although he. 
 thought they did not. Many of thc^m are now Christians 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 209 
 
 Towards evening we arrived at a small village ealltd 
 Huoxacac, where we remained all night. The village is 
 small, but well built ; it contains about fifty houses, 
 the most of which are built of brick or clay, and not more, 
 than two or three of them over one story high. 
 
 In the morning we again started, and calculated by 
 evening to reach the city of Xilotepec. ^We this dav 
 passed a number of small villages, in which nothing- 
 worthy of notice was observed, and I shall therefore avoid 
 particularizing until our arrival at the city of Xilotepec, 
 which we reached about the middle of the afternoon. On 
 our arrival I immediately ^vaitcd on a person to whom I 
 had a letter from the commandant of Tula, and he di- 
 rectly procured me lodgings in a pleasant and airy part of 
 the town. 
 
 CHAP. XX. 
 
 Particular description of the city of Xilotepec — Religion 
 — Government — Commerce — Excellence of the mq^r- 
 kets — Description of the hall of audience — Prepara- 
 tions for leaving this place for Mexico — Description 
 of a natural bridge^ similar to that in Virginia described 
 by Mr. Jefferson — Description of a cave — Description 
 of the country through which the author passes — Ar- 
 rival at Mexico. 
 
 The city of Xilotepec is considered by the Spanish 
 government as the capital of the province of the Otomies, 
 ond lias many fine and even elegant buildings to recom- 
 
 27 
 
210 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 mend it to the attention of travellers. The streets are 
 straight and regular, the principal terminating in three 
 large squares, in which are fountains that supply the city 
 with water the year round. These streets are lined with 
 shops which make a very showy appearance, and do 
 considerable business. The churches are numerous, and 
 the cathedral is a very fine piece of architecture, built of 
 stone, and of an ancient date ; the inside is very rich in 
 its ornaments, but they are heavy and deficient in that 
 elegance which would recommend them to the attention 
 of the connoisseur. 
 
 The government is herq administered altogether by 
 tlie Spaniards, who monopolize all the most profitable 
 branches of trade, and let it to the natives at a high price ; 
 in their dealings they are not very honourable, and they 
 never hesitate to take in a stranger. The principal trade 
 is carried on with Mexico and Acapulco, the one being 
 the capital of the country, and the other the seaport 
 through which the communication is kept up between the 
 different parts of the Spanish empire in America, and the 
 East Indies. The commerce from Xilotepec to Aca- 
 pulco must arrive at the latter place before the month 
 of December, at which time the Great Galleon, attended 
 by a large ship as a convoy, which forms the only com- 
 munication between the Philippines and Mexico, annually 
 arrives there. The cargoes of these ships, although they 
 are forbidden to carry goods, consist of all the rich com- 
 modities of the east. The annual ship from Lima arrives 
 about the same time, and is generally supposed to have 
 on board about two millions of pieces of eight in silver, 
 besides quicksilver, and other valuable commodities, to 
 be laid out in the purchase of the Galleon's cargoes. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 211 
 
 Several other ships from different parts of the Spanish 
 coast Hkewise arrive at this time, and a:n annual fair which 
 lasts thirty days is held, when all the commodities of the 
 world are bartered. This city, next to Mexico, has the 
 largest share in this traffic, and it is said that in some sea- 
 sons there has been 10,000 mules sent over, laden with 
 the produce of the country. The trade with Mexico is 
 less advantageous, and does not employ more than half as 
 many mules. 
 
 Near Xilotepec there is a beautiful river, which runs 
 from southeast to northwest, and waters a considerable 
 extent of territory. In this river are found small grains 
 of gold, which are washed from the mountains ; a great 
 number of the poor inhabitants are employed in collecting 
 this gold, who sometimes find considerable quantities. 
 
 The Spaniards ^vork a mine of copper which is situ- 
 ated about a mile from the town, in which they employ 
 their slaves, and those who are sentenced by the court for 
 small crimes. This mine is not very productive, al- 
 though it has been worked to the depth of about 120' 
 feet. 
 
 I waited on an American gentleman of the name of 
 Lacour, whom I had known in New- Orleans. He had 
 recently amved from Mexico, and informed me that 
 there were some considerable distiu'bances in the city 
 between the Spanish governor and. the people, but never- 
 theless he considered the city safe for foreigners, particu- 
 larly for Americans. He informed me that trade was 
 very brisk in that city, and that it was hardly possible for 
 me to fail of finding a ready market for my two horses. 
 Indeed, their beauty had already attracted the notice of 
 many gentlemen, and I had received t^vo or three liberal 
 
 1 
 
^12 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 offers for them, which I refused, determining not to sell 
 till I reached Mexico, where I should be able to purchase 
 mules much cheaper than here. 
 
 This city is the see of an archbishop, who has an in- 
 come of about six thousand pounds sterling. He is a 
 Spaniard, of the order of Jesuits, and has been in the 
 country about ten years. The inhabitants are very much 
 attached to him, and they never pass him without taking 
 off their hats. 
 
 The markets of this city are excellent, and deserving 
 of high commendation. There are three of them kept 
 in streets near the large squares which have been already 
 mentioned, one half of each of which is appropriated to 
 flesh, and the other half to fish and vegetables. Eggs, 
 butter, cheese, &c. of a good quality, may be bought 
 here very cheap. The regulations of the market will not 
 allow a person to dispose of any article before daylight, 
 nor to stay in the market after 12 o'clock, as the heat 
 is then such that the provisions might be injured. There 
 is an appearance of regularity in their dealings, which ren- 
 ders it probable that they have been accustomed to these 
 regulations for some time. 
 
 -There are a few .vineyards in the neighbourhood that 
 produce a considerable quantity of grapes, from which a 
 pleasant wine is made. It is my opinion that if the cul- 
 ture of the grape was duly attended to, in a short time 
 a large quantity of wine might be exported from this 
 country ; but the indolence of the inhabitants is such 
 th^t they will attend to no business which has not a con- 
 nection with a gold mine. 
 
 I visited, in company with Mr. Lacour and a Spanish 
 gentleman, the hall of audience, as it is termed, where 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 215 
 
 the principal deputies of the province meet to render an 
 account of their proceedings. The deputies are received 
 by the chief clerk of the viceroy of Mexico. This is a 
 spacious and elegant apartment, capable of holding one 
 thousand persons. The room is fourteen feet high, and 
 the ceiling covered with Spanish and INIexican banners. 
 At the upper end of the hall is a chair raised on a throne 
 of marble, which has an exquisite polish ; the chair is 
 richly covered with a cloth of silver, and studded all over 
 with gold nails. Over the chair is a canopy of purple 
 velvet, which is deeply fringed \vith gold tissue. The 
 seats on which the deputies sit are covered with red vel- 
 vet. Behind the chair is the figure of the Virgin Mary 
 in a rich gilt frame, which is the only picture in the 
 chamber. I^ the centre of the room is a chandelier 
 which has sixteen branches. The Spanish gentleman 
 informed me that the deputies meet here only once in a 
 3-ear, when they remain about three weeks, and that the 
 rest of the time the hall is shut up, and never opened ex- 
 cept upon particular request. 
 
 For some days past I had been making arrangements 
 to ' leave this place for Mexico. I called on the gentle- 
 man to whom I had a letter from the commandant of 
 Tula, and ^requested him to inform me of any one who 
 was going on in a few days, as it would be more agreea- 
 ble to travel with company than: alone. He assured me 
 he would enquire, and did not doubt there were some 
 going on who would be glad of receiving an addition to 
 their cavalcade. 
 
 Mv horses were bv this time in • excellent order and 
 
 re the two finest I ever saw. ' I calculated that they 
 
 Muld fetch me a high price. In this I was not disap- ' 
 
214 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 pointed, as on my arrival I sold them to a Spanish gi'an- 
 ^e at my own price. 
 
 In a few days my friend called on me ; he informed 
 me that in three days there would be four gentlemen 
 going on to Mexico, who would be very glad of my 
 company, and with whom he had no doubt I should pass 
 tlie time very agreeably. He mentioned that he was nOw 
 gping into the country, near to some remarkable natural 
 curiosities which would be ^vorthy my attention, and he 
 requested me to accompany him. As I had nothing 
 particular to detain me in town I accepted of his invita- 
 tion, and we prepared to start the next morning. 
 
 In the morning we started on mules, and proceeded 
 directly to the mountains. The road was steep, and in 
 many parts dangerous, owing to the pieces of rocks 
 which had been broken off and lay in the fy\th. We 
 saw nothing remarkable for the first day's journey, and 
 put up about dark at the hut of a cowherd, who enter- 
 tained us very hospitably. Being fatigued with our 
 jounicy we soon retired to rest, and slept soundly until 
 moi'ning. 
 
 At the dawn of day we again started, and proceeded 
 ©ver steep and craggy cliffs, which were very sharp and 
 difficult of being passed. My friend informed me that 
 we were near to one of the most stupendous curiosities 
 m that country, a view of which he considered worthy 
 of the trouble and fatigue we had encountered in coming 
 to it. In a few minutes more, on rising a high part of 
 tlie mountain, 1 discovered a natural bridge, extending 
 across from one mountain to the other, while in the valley 
 ran a stream of clear water ; the distance across I judged 
 lo be about 120 feet. I was struck witli the similaritv 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 2lS 
 
 between this bridge and the one described by Mr. Jeffer- 
 son, in his Notes on Virginia, and which I had so often 
 admired. It appeared to me to be as wide at the bottoxa 
 as at the top, but the sublime appearance of it was eqaaS 
 to the one seen in Virginia, In the centre of the bridge 
 is a large rock which acts as a pier, reaching from the top 
 to the bottom. I understood the bridge was often crossed 
 by the mountaineers, in pursuit of their stray sheep, but 
 I could not muster up resolution enough to venture. My 
 companion now led me to the bottom of the biidgc^ 
 where the view was as delightful as that from the top haJ, 
 been painful and terrific. The hills, clothed with a few 
 trees, and the blue sky, which can here but partially te 
 seen, renders the scene one of the most pleasing ani 
 beautiful I ever saw. 
 
 We now passed on for about a mile, when my com- 
 panion turned off to the right, and in a few minutes iM 
 me to the mouth of a cave situated in the side of ilDac 
 mountain. The entrance was much choaked with weed's^ 
 and appeared not to have been entered for some tmre. 
 It is in the steepest side of the mountain, and is -veiy 
 difficult of access. We, however, succeeded in forcing 
 our way, being provided with torches, from fireworks 
 which we had brought with us. 
 
 On entering the cave, we found the thermometer wMdla 
 stood, at 70° rise in a few minutes to 76°, We contoi-. 
 ued nearly in a horizontal direction, and found thalt alt 
 branched out into many subordinate caverns, some mudk 
 larger than others. The top was arched over, and (itp- 
 peared to be formed of limestone, or some other poraas 
 substance, as the water trickled constantly down the sides; 
 of tlie cave, and had formed itself into elegant drapery ; 
 
216 REUS TRAVELS, 
 
 while that which trickled from above formed stalactites 
 of a conical form, which had a handsome appearance. 
 
 We proceeded slo\vly forward until we had reached 
 the distance of about 400 feet from the mouth of the 
 cave, when we came to a small pond of water which was 
 about ten yards in circumference. I threw a stone into 
 this pond, which produced a rumbling noise throughout 
 the cavern. As our light was nearly extinguished, and 
 we could not with safety proceed any further, we re- 
 turned with all speed. When we arrived at the mouth 
 of the cave we found the sun for past the meridian, and 
 hastened to return to the hut of the hospitable cowherd, 
 who entertained us the night before. On our return he 
 prepa^ for us a comfortable bed, and in the morning 
 \vt agSn set forward, and reached town early in the after- 
 noon. 
 
 The next morning I was called upon by one of my 
 fellow travellers, who informed me that they would call 
 for me in the afternoon. I expressed myself entirely sat- 
 isfied, and about.three o'clock we set out on our jour- 
 ney. We travelled this day through a beautiful country, 
 which was well watered and very fertile. I saw many 
 large herds of cattle, which are here fed by the natives 
 and fitted for the Mexican market. At the time this 
 Country was discovered it produced neither hogs, sheep, 
 cattle, nor any other domestic animal. Columbus car- 
 ried some of these animals to St. Domingo, from whence 
 they were brought to Mexico, where they ha^'e multiplied 
 ^prodigiously. They now count their horned cattle by 
 thousands, and their skins have become a considerable 
 object for exportation. 
 
 In the evening we encamped in a fertile plain, and 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 217 
 
 were regaled with the music of the birds until a late hour, 
 when I sunk in sleep. The next morning we pursued 
 our journey. We passed through several small villages 
 which were seated on the sides of the mountain, and 
 about noon arrived at the handsome town of Chiompo- 
 razo, which is well built, and contains many handsome 
 houses ; it has a population of about six thousand per- 
 sons. The streets are crooked and narrow, which gives 
 the place a disadvantageous appearance. The inhabit- 
 ants are industrious, and carry on a considerable manu- 
 facture of silk, although they are not much encouraged 
 by the government, which is jealous of this manufacture, 
 and for some political reasons throw many obstruction^ 
 in the way of it. 
 
 We remained here all night, and in the morning pro- 
 ceeded. The roads now became more level, and we 
 travelled with rnuch more ease than formerly. This be- 
 ing the great road to Mexico, it is kept with more 
 care and better regulation than any other in New- Spain. 
 Each traveller has to pay a small toll as he passes, at the 
 distance of about ten leagues. 
 
 We met with nothing remarkable, or worthy of notice, 
 until we aiTived at the small town of Lasca, which is sit- 
 uated on the side of a hill, and is a pleasant and thriving 
 little town. The inhabitants are about 700 in number, 
 and manufacture baize in some considerable quantity. 
 They have large flocks of sheep, which graze on the 
 mountains ; but their wool is much coarser than that of 
 our northern sheep, which is, however, the case in all 
 warm climates. We travelled until a late hour this 
 night, as we ^vished to reach Mexico the next day if pos 
 
 sible. 
 
 ^ 28 
 
218 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 About noon the next day I had an agreeable view of tlie 
 lake Tetzuco, on an island in which stands the city of Mex- 
 ico. It has of late undergone soncie considerable improve- 
 ments, which are much for the benefit of the city ; a ca- 
 nal has been dug, which drains the lower lake, and se- 
 cures the city from those inundations which were so fre- 
 quent, owing to the lake being the reservoir of all the 
 water which flows from the different mountains. The 
 appearance of the city was grand and magnificent, it be- 
 ing almost entirely surrounded with water, and the lofty 
 spires of its churches, glittering in the sun, rendered the 
 sight truly pleasing. As we descended the mountain we 
 lost sight of the city. Our road was now winding 
 through a valley, which was rendered gay by the vine- 
 yards, houses for pleasure and amusement, cottages, &c. 
 which were scattered over the scene, and so agreeably 
 employed us that we did not reach the city before it be- 
 came dark. 
 
 CHAP. XXI. 
 
 General description of Mexico — Extent — Population — - 
 Elegance of its churches — Description of the church 
 of St. Antonio — Elegance of the buildings — Commerce 
 of Mexico — General account of its inhabitants. 
 
 On my arrival in Mexico, one of the gentlemen with 
 whom I had travelled soon procured me lodgings that 
 wQ-e neat and comfortable, and in a few hours I found 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 219 
 
 myself as much at home as though I had been brought 
 up there. I found the city flir to exceed any thing I had 
 conceived of its grandeur and magnificence. The build- 
 ings were lofty, and the architecture of many of them 
 executed in a manner that leaves them very little inferior 
 to any in Europe. The streets are regular and well laid 
 out. There are nineteen public squares, which are spa- 
 cious and have fountains of water in their centre. A- 
 round these squares are placed shops, coffee-houses, and 
 bilUard-rooms, which render them the resort of the most 
 fashionable and wealthy part of the inhabitants. One of 
 these billiard-rooms is so large that it can accommodate 
 two hundred people with ease, and has twelve billiiird- 
 tables. The coilee-houses ^re the places to which the 
 Spaniards resort after dinner, to drink coffee, punch, &c. : 
 they have become very numerous in Mexico. 
 
 The exact circumference of the city I cannot give 
 with precision, as authors differ much in their accounts, 
 and Spaniards and Mexicans never agree in that particu- 
 lar at the present day ; but I am induced to believe that 
 it is about ten miles in circumference, and that it con- 
 tains about 250,000 inhabitants. 
 
 The Abbe Clavegero, in his History of Mexico, dates 
 the foundation of the this city as far back as 1325. It 
 was the residence of the kings of the Mexican empire 
 from its foundation, and upon the first arrival of the 
 Spaniards in this country they were much surprised at 
 the neatness and regularity of its appearance, and the 
 magnificence of its buildings. It has suffered greatly in 
 the different struggles which have been made by the 
 Mexicans for their liberty, but has always been consider 
 ^ as the capital of the empire. 
 
220 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 Some of the churches are built with surprising neat- 
 ness and regularity, and the inside work is not only ex- 
 tremely rich, but elegant. The church of St. Antonio 
 is deserving of particular notice. It stands in the square 
 of the same name ; its front is supported by twelve large 
 pillars of beautiful marble of the corinthian order, with 
 ionic capitals. The church is entirely of white marble. 
 Directly over the portico is a figure of St. Anthony, the 
 patron saint, dressed in a superb manner, and having in 
 his hand a cross set with diamonds ; it is asserted by the 
 monks that they are real diamonds, but others, with some 
 authority, say that they are notliing but false ones made 
 of glass. 
 
 The inside of the churCh is adorned with a number of 
 superb columns of marble, some of the ionic and some of 
 the corinthian order, and all having their bases richly 
 gilt. The ceiling is painted in a very neat and handsome 
 manner, representing some of the most interesting scenes 
 in the history of our Saviour ; the paintings are said to 
 have been executed by a native Mexican who had never 
 studied the art ; they are by no means a contemptible 
 performance. 
 
 The altar is very rich and splendid, and far surpasses 
 that of the court chapel in Madrid, which is said to have 
 cost eighty thousand pounds sterling ; the railing is of 
 hoYid silver,' about forty feet in length, forming an exact 
 half moon ; at each end is an angel as large as life, of 
 silver ; in the centre is a chandelier with twelve branches, 
 >vhich is supported by the angels. The entrance into the 
 altar is by a gate, made in the form of a cross, with a 
 cro^vn of thorns on the top, set in rubies. The railing 
 has a covering over it except on particular occasions. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 221 
 
 When I saw it, high mass was performed by the arch- 
 bishop, with great magnificence ; the robes in which he 
 was dressed on that occasion \vere very rich and costly, 
 and the number of monks who composed the processior^ 
 amounted to about two hundred. The lights which were 
 then burning in golden candlesticks, reached to the height 
 of twenty feet, and formed an exact triangle ; they had a 
 beautiful and elegant appearance. 
 
 The greatest curiosity in the city of Mexico is the 
 floating gardens, which are particularly described by the 
 Abbe Clavegero. Their origin is dated as far back as 
 the year 1325, when the Mexicans were subdued by the 
 Columan and Tepecan nations. Their construction is 
 simple, and they are thus described by Clavegero. " They 
 take willows and the roots of marsh plants, and other ma- 
 terials which are light, and twist them together, and so 
 firmly unite them as to form a sort of platform which is 
 capable of supporting the earth of the garden. Upon 
 this foundation they lay the light bushes which float on 
 the lake, and overspread the mud and dirt which they 
 draw up from the bottom of the lake. Their regular 
 figure is c^iadrangular ; their length and breadth various, 
 but generally about eight rods long and three wide ; and 
 their ejevation from the surface of the water is less than a 
 foot. These were the first fields which the Mexicans 
 owned after the foundation of Mexico ; there they first 
 cultivated the maize, great pepper, and other plants ne- 
 cessary for their support. At present they cultivate no- 
 tliing but garden herbs arid flowers. Every day of the 
 year, at sunrise, innumerable vessels or boats, loadjed 
 =with various herbs, flowers,. 8cc. which are culti\'atcd in 
 *^rse gardens, are seen arriving^ by the canal at the great 
 
222 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 market place of Mexico. All plants thrive here siirpri-- 
 singly ; the mud of the lake makes a very rich soil, 
 which requires no water from the clouds. In the largest 
 gardens there is commonly a little tree and a little hut to 
 shelter the cultivator from the sun. When the owner of 
 a garden, or the chimaka, as he is called, wishes to 
 r.hange his situation, to get out of a bad neighbourhood, 
 or to come nearer his family, he gets into his little boat^, 
 and by his own strengtli alone, if the garden is small, or 
 with the assistance of others if it is large, conducts 
 it wherever he pleases, with the little hut and tree upon 
 h." 
 
 The buildings of Mexico arc mosdy of stone, and are 
 very airy and elegant. Many of those which are of 
 modern date are very high. The archiepiscopal palace, 
 which has been lately, erected, is six stories high, and 
 built of white stone resembling marble. 
 
 The trade of Mexico consists of three great branches, 
 which extend over the whole world. It carries on a 
 traffic with Europe by Le Vera Cruz, which is situated 
 on the gulf of Mexico, on the North sea, and is styled 
 by some the gi'and port of Mexico or Ne^v-Spain ; it is 
 said to have a safe harbour, and is considered one of the 
 most considerable places of trade, being the centre of the 
 American treasure, and the magazine for all the mer- 
 chandize sent from New- Spain, or tha,t is transported 
 thither from Europe. It is by means of this port that 
 Mexico is enabled to pour her wealth over the whole 
 world, and receive in return the numberless luxuries 
 and necessaries which Europe affords. To this port 
 the fleet from Cadiz, called the flota, consisting of three 
 men of war as a convoy, and fourteen large merchant 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 223 
 
 •^hips, annually arrive about the beginning of November, 
 Its cargo consists of almost every commodity and manu- 
 facture of Europe ; and there are few nations but have 
 anore concern in it than the Spanish, ^vho send out little 
 except wine and oil. 
 
 Notwithstanding what has been said respecting the 
 cities of Acapulco and Vera Cruz, the city of Mexico 
 ought to be considered as the centre of commerce in this 
 part of the world ; for here the principal merchants re- 
 side, and the greatest part of the business is negociated. 
 Tfie East India goods from Acapulco, and the European 
 from Vera Cruz, pass through this city. Hither also^ 
 the gold and silver are sent to be coined ; here the king's 
 fifth is deposited, and here are wrought all those utensils 
 and ornaments in plate, which are every year sent into 
 Europe. 
 
 The principal inhabitants of the city of Mexico arc 
 Spaniards, who are obliged to aspire to some ecclesiasti- 
 cal, civil, or military employment, to prove that there 
 have been neither heretics, Jews, Mahometans, nor any 
 persons, in their family, who have been called before the 
 inquisition for four generations. 
 
 Merchants, who are desirous of going to Mexico, as- 
 well as to other parts of Spanish America, without be- 
 coming colonists, are compelled to observe the same 
 forms ; they are also obliged to swear that they have 
 three hundred palms of merchandise, their own property, 
 in the fleet in which they embark, and that they will not 
 take their wives with them. On these conditions tliey 
 become the principal agents of the European commerce 
 with the Indies. Though their charter is to continue 
 onlv for three years, and a little longer for countries 
 
224 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 more remote, it is of great importance. To them alone 
 belong the right of selling, as commissioners, the major 
 part of the cargo. 
 
 There are, however, a large class of men who are ex- 
 cluded from all public stations, and are called Creoles. 
 The descendants of the companions of Cortez, having 
 been constantly excluded from all places of trust that 
 -.were in any degree considerable, have seen the gradual 
 decay of the power that supported their fathers. The 
 habit of bearing that contempt with which they have 
 been treated, has at last made them become really con- 
 temptible. They have totally lost, in the vices which 
 originate from the heat of the climate, from indolence, 
 and from a superfluous enjoyment of all things, that 
 firmness and that sort of pride which have ever charac- 
 terized their nation. Luxury, shameful pleasures and 
 intrigues, have enervated all the vigour of their minds, 
 while a blind superstition has completed their degradation. 
 Being blindly devoted to priests who are too ignorant to 
 enlighten them by their instructions, too depraved to edi- 
 fy them by their example, and too mercenary to attend- 
 to both these duties of their functions, they have no at- 
 tachinent to any part of their religion but that which en- 
 feebles the mind, and have neglected what might have 
 contributed to rectify their morals. 
 
 Before leaving the Mexican empire I made some par- 
 ticular enquiries into the natural history of the country, 
 its productions, rivers, towns, population, and the general 
 character of the inhabitants ; in these researches I was 
 much assisted by a Spanish Jesuit priest, who was a man 
 of information, and able to furnish me with many valua- 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 2?5 
 
 ble particulai's, which I have thrown together under one 
 general head, in order to avoid a repetition. 
 
 &HAP. XXII. 
 
 Situation of the Mexicaii empire — Divisions — Descrip- 
 tion of the vale of Mexico — CUmate — Volcanoes — 
 Rivers — Lakes — Mineral productions. 
 
 Xhe Mexican empire is situated between 9** and 40** 
 north latitude, and 18° and 50'' west longitude. Its length 
 is 2000 miles, and breadth 1600. It is bounded on the 
 north by unknown regions ; on the east by the gulf of 
 Mexico ; on the south by the isthmus of Darien, which 
 separates it from Terra Firma, in South America ; and 
 on the west by the Pacific ocean. 
 
 This vast country is divided into three grand divisions, 
 Which are, Mexico, New- Mexico proper, and California, 
 lying on the west. 
 
 The ancient country of Mexico, properly so called, 
 was divided into several provinces, of which the vale of 
 Mexico was the finest in every respect. This vale is 
 surrounded by verdant mountains, measuring upwards ot 
 one hundred and twenty miles in circumference at their 
 base. A great part of the vale is occupied by two lakes, 
 the upper one of fresh water, but the lower one brackish., 
 and communicating with the former by means of a canal. 
 All the water which runs from the mountains is collected 
 in the lower lake, on account of its being at the botton* 
 
 29 
 
226 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 of the valley ; hence it was ready, when swelled by extra- 
 ordinary rains, to overflow the city of Mexico. This de- 
 lightful region contained the three imperial cities of 
 Mexico, Acolbuacan, and Tlacopan ; besides forty 
 others, with innumerable villages and hamlets ; but the 
 most considerable of these, according to Clavegero, 
 Scarce contain one twentieth part of their former mag- 
 nificence. 
 
 The climate of this vast country varies much, accord- 
 ing to the situation of its different parts. The maritime 
 places are hot, unhealthy, and moist ; the heat being so 
 great as to cause people to sweat, even in the month of 
 January. This heat is supposed to be owing to the flat- 
 ness of the coasts, and the accumulation of sand upon 
 them. The moisture arises from the vast evaporation 
 from the sea, as well as from the great torrents of water 
 descending from the mountains. The lands which lie in 
 the neighbourhood of high mountains, the tops of which 
 are always covered with snow, must of necessity be cool ; 
 and Clavegero informs us that he has been on a mountain 
 not more than twenty-five miles distant from the city of 
 Mexico, where there was white frost and ice even in dog 
 days. 
 
 " All the other inland countries," says the author just 
 mentioned, "where the greatest population prevailed, 
 enjoy a climate so mild and sublime, that they neither 
 feel the rigour of winter nor the heat of summer. It is 
 ti'ue that in many of the countries there is frequently 
 white frost in the three months of December, January^ 
 and February, and sometimes it even snows ; but the 
 small inconvenience which such cold occasions continues 
 only till the rising sun ; ^o other fire than his ravs isF 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 227 
 
 necessary to give warmth in winter ; no other rehef is 
 wanted in the season of heat but tlie shade. The same 
 clothing which covers men in the dog days, defends 
 them in January, and the animals sleep all the year under 
 the open sky. 
 
 '' This mildness and agreeableness of climate under 
 the torrid zone, is the result of several natural causes 
 entirely unknown to the ancients, who did not believe it 
 inhabited, and not well understood by some moderns, by 
 whom it is believed to be unfavourable to those who live 
 in it. The purity of the atmosphere, the smaller obli- 
 quity of the solar rays, and the longer stay of this lumina- 
 ry above the horizon in winter, in comparison of other 
 regions farther removed from the equator, concur to les- 
 sen the cold and to prevent all that horror which disfig- 
 ures the face of nature in other climes. During that 
 season a serene sky and the natural delights of the coun- 
 try are enjoyed ; whereas under the frigid, and even for 
 the most part under the temperate zones,_ the clouds rob 
 man of the prospect of heaven, and the snow buries the 
 beautiful productions of the earth. 
 
 " No less causes combine to temper the heat of the 
 summer. The plentiful showers which frequently water 
 the earth after mid- day from April or May, to September 
 or October; the high mountains continually loaded with 
 snow, scattered here and there through the country of 
 Anhuae ; the cold winds which breathe from them in 
 that season ; and the shorter stay of the sun above the 
 horizon, compared with the circumstances of the tenipe- 
 rate zone, transform the climes of those happy countries 
 into a cool and cheerful spring. 
 
 ^^ But the agreeableness of tjje climate is counterbr\lan 
 
228 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 eed by thunder-storms, which are frequent in summer, 
 particularly in the neighbourhood of the mountain of 
 Ilascala ; and by earthquakes, which are at all times felt, 
 though with less danger than terror. Storms of hail are 
 neither more frequent nor more severe than in Eng- 
 land.'' 
 
 One undoubted inconvenience which Mexico has, is 
 that of volcanoes, of which Clavegero enumerates five. 
 One, called by the Spaniards Volcou D'Orizaba, is high- 
 er than the peake of Teneriffe, according to the account 
 of the Jesuit Tallandier, who measured them both. It 
 began to send forth smoke in the year 1545, when it 
 continued burning for twenty years, but has not discov- 
 ered any symptoms of eruption since that time. It is of 
 a conical figure, and by reason of its great height may be 
 seen at the distance of fifty leagues. The top is always 
 covered with snow, but the lower part by pine and other 
 
 valuable timber. It lies about ninetv miles to the east- 
 
 </ ' ■ 
 
 ward of the capital. 
 
 Two other mountains, named Kopscatepee and Iz- 
 taccihuatl, which lie near each other, at the distance of 
 thirty- three miles to the southeast of Mexico, are likewise 
 surprisingly high. Clavegero supposes the former to be 
 higher than the highest of the Alps, considering the ele- 
 • vated ground on which the base of it stands. It has a 
 crater more than half a mile wide ; from which, in the 
 time of the Mexican kings, great quantities of smoke and 
 flame issued. In the last century it frequently tlirew out 
 great showers of ashes upon the places adjacent ; but in 
 the present century hardly any smoke has been observed. 
 This mountain is named by the Spaniards Volcou, and 
 the other Sierra Nevada ythe latter has also sometimes 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 229 
 
 emitted flames. Both of these mountains have their tops 
 always covered with snow in such quantities, that the 
 masses which fall down upon the neighbouring rocks sup- 
 ply the cities of Mexico, Gelspoli, Choluda, and all the 
 adjacent country for the distance of forty miles, with that 
 commodity, of which the consumption in the city of 
 Mexico was so great in 1812, that the impost on the ar- 
 ticle for that year amounted to about thirty- six thousand 
 crowns. 
 
 Besides these, there are the two mountains of Coliman 
 and Tachtlau, both of which have occasionally emitted 
 flames. 
 
 Clavegero does not include in the list of Mexican vol- 
 canoes, either those of Nicaragua or Guatimala, because 
 these countries w^ere not subject, to the Mexican sove- 
 reigns. Those of Guatimala sometimes break forth in a 
 most furious manner, and in the year 1773 entirely de- 
 stroyed that beautiful city. The Nicaragua volcano 
 called Jurugo, was only a small hill before the year 1 760. 
 In that year, however, on the 29th of September, it began 
 to burn with furious explosions, ruining entirely the su- 
 gar works, and the neighbouring village of Guacara ; 
 and from that time continued to emit fire and broken 
 rocks in such quantities, that in six years the erupted 
 matter had formed itself into three high mountains neai'ly 
 six miles in circumference. During the time of the first 
 eruption, the ashes were carried as far as the city of Que- 
 retaro, ^vhich is one hundred and fifty miles distant from 
 the volcano ; and at Valladolid, distant sixty miles from 
 it, die shower was so abundant that the people ^vere oblir 
 ged to sweep their house yards t\Ao or three times in a 
 
 P 
 
230 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 Besides these volcanoes, there are other mountains in 
 Mexico of a very remarkable height. The great chain 
 called the Andes are continued through the isthmus of 
 Panama, and through all Mexico, until they are lost in 
 the unknown mountains of the north. The most con- 
 siderable of that chain is known in Mexico by the name 
 of Sierra Madre, particularly that part of it situated in 
 Cinalo and Tanahumara, provinces no less than one 
 thousand two hundred miles distant from the capital. 
 
 Mexico is well watered by very considerable rivers, 
 though none of them are comparable to those of South 
 America. Some of these rivers empty into the gulf of 
 Mexico, and others into the Pacific ocean. The Alva- 
 rado has its principal source among the mountains of the 
 Zapotecas, and discharges itself by three navigable 
 mouths into the Mexican gulf, at the distance of thirty 
 miles from Vera Cruz. The Coatzocualco rises among 
 the mountains of the Mixtecas, and empties itself into 
 the gulf near the country of Onbualco. The river Chia- 
 pan, which likewise runs into this gulf, rises among the 
 mountains which separate the district of Chiapan from 
 that of Guatimala. The Spaniards call this river Tabas- 
 co, by which name they also call that tract of land which 
 unites Yucatan to the Mexican continent. This tract 
 M^as also called Grijalva, from the name of the command- 
 er of the Spanish fleet who discovered it. 
 
 The most celebrated of the rivers which run into the 
 Pacific ocean, is that which is called by the Spaniards 
 Gaudalaxara, or Great river. It rises in the mountains 
 of Tolocan, and after running a course of more than six 
 hundred miles, discharges itself into the ocean in 22* 
 north latitude. «» 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 231 
 
 •♦ 
 
 There are likewise in this country several lakes of very 
 considerable magnitude, but those of Nicaragua, Cha- 
 pallau, and Pizquorro, which are of the greatest extent, 
 did not belong to the ancient Mexican empire. The 
 most remarkable were those in the vale of Mexico, in 
 which the capital of the empire was founded. Of these, 
 the fresh water one, called tlie lake of Chalco, extended 
 in length from east to west twelve miles, as far as the 
 city of Xochiwiles ; from thence, taking a northerly 
 direction, it incorporates itself by means of a canal with 
 lake Tetzuco ; but its breadth does not exceed six miles. 
 The other of these lakes, lake Tetzuco, formerly ex- 
 tended fifteen, or rather seventeen miles from east to 
 west, and something more from north to south ; but its 
 extent is now much less, by reason of the Spaniards 
 having diverted the course of many of the streams which 
 formerly ran into it. The water of this lake is salt, which 
 Clavegero supposes to be owing to the nature of the soil 
 which forms its bed. 
 
 Besides these there are a number of smaller lakes,, 
 some of which are very delightful. There are a vast 
 variety of mineral waterJj, of the nitrous, sulphureous^^ 
 and aluminous kinds, some of them so hot that meat 
 might be boiled in them. At Tetuhuacan is a kind of 
 petrifying water, as well as in several other parts of the 
 empire. One of them forms a kind of smooth white 
 stone, not unpleasant to the taste, Xht scrapings of 
 which, taken in broth, are celebrated as a diaphoreticj 
 probably without any good reason ; the dose for a person, 
 not difficult to sweat, is one drachm of the scrapings. 
 Many of the rivers of Mexico afford surprising and beau- 
 *ifvi.l cascades, particularly the great river Gaudalaxara 
 
232 KEIl'S TRAVELS. 
 
 *'- 
 
 at a place called Tempizque, fifteen miles to the south- 
 ward of that city. Along a deep river called Aytoyaquey 
 is a natural bridge consisting of a vast mound of earth, 
 along which carriages pass conveniently. Clavegero 
 supposes it to have been the fragment of a mountain, 
 thrown down by an earthquake, and then penetrated by 
 the river. 
 
 The mineral productions of Mexico are very valuable. 
 The natives found gold in several provinces of the 
 empire. They gathered it principally from among the 
 sands of their rivers, in grains, and the people in whose 
 country it was found, were obliged to pay a certain part 
 of it, by way of tribute, to the emperor. They dug silver 
 out of the mines in Tlachco, and some other countries ; 
 '•but it was less prized by them than by other nations. 
 Since the conquest, however, so many silver mines have 
 been discovered, in that country, especially in the provin- 
 ces to the northwest of the capital, that it is in vain to at- 
 tempt an enumeration of them. They had two sorts of 
 copper, one kind of which was so hard as to serve them 
 instead of iron, to make axes, and other instruments, for 
 war and agriculture ; the other kind, which was soft and 
 flexible, served for domestic purposes, as with us. They 
 had likewise tin from the mine of Tlachco, and dug lead 
 out of mines in the country of the Otomies, but we are 
 not informed what use they made of this last metal. They 
 had also mines of iron in Tlascala, Tlachco, and some 
 other places ; but these were either unknown to the 
 Mexicans, or they did not know how to benefit them- 
 selves by them. In Chilapan were mines of quicksilver ; 
 and in many places they had sulphur, alum, cinnabar, 
 ochre, and an earth greatly resembling white paint. 
 
 M 
 
 ^^ 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 233 
 
 ^These minerals were employed in painting and dying, 
 but we know not to what use they put their quicksilver. 
 There was great abundance of amber and asphaltos upon 
 their coasts, both of which were paid in tribute to the 
 eniperor of Mexico, from many ports of the empire ; 
 the former was wont to be set in gold by way of orna- 
 ment, and asphaltos was employed in their sacrifices. 
 
 Mexico produces some diamonds, though but few in 
 number ; but they have in great plenty some other pre- 
 cious stones, such as amethysts, cat's-eyes, turquoises, 
 cornelians, and some green stones resembling emeralds, 
 and very little inferior to them, of all which a tribute was 
 paid to the emperor, by the people in whose temtories 
 they were found. They were likewise furnished with 
 crystal in plenty from the mountains which lie on the * 
 coast of the Mexican gulf, between the port of Vera 
 Cruz and the river Chinquionquiaco. In the mountains of 
 Celpolalon, to the eastward of Mexico, are quarries of 
 jasper and marble, of different colours ; they have like- 
 wise alabaster at a place called Tecalco, now Tecula, in 
 the neighbourhood of the province of Tapeyacac, and 
 many other parts of the empire. The stone tetzortii is 
 generally of a dark red colour, pretty hard, porous, and 
 light ; it unites most firmly with lime and sand, and on 
 that account it is in great demand for building in the capi-^ 
 tal where the foundation is bad. There is a large moun- 
 tain of loadstone lying between Tesitzlau and Chilapan, 
 in the country of the Cohuixcas. They formed curious 
 figures of .nepliritic stone, some of which are still pre 
 served in European museums. 
 
 In this country they have a kind of fine talc, which 
 ^^iirns into an excellent plaister, and with which tliev 
 
 .SO 
 
9.34 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 whiten their paintings. But the most useful stone they 
 have is called itzli, of which there is great abundance in 
 many parts of Mexico. It has a glossy appearance, is 
 generally of a black colour, though sometimes found of 
 a blue or white, and is semi-transparent. In South 
 America the stone is called pictra del golinarro ; and 
 Count Caylus endeavours to show, in a manuscript dis- 
 sertation quoted by Bomore, that the obsidiona of which 
 the ancients made their vores murrica, were exactly simi- 
 lar to this stone. The Mexicans make of it looking- 
 glasses, knives, lancets, razors, and spears. Sacred uses 
 have been made of it since the introduction of Chris- 
 tianity; 
 
 CHAP. XXIII. 
 
 Soil of Mexico — Variety oj its vegetable productions — - 
 Luxurious growth of its forest trees — Description of 
 the trees which produce liquid amber — Description of 
 the animals peculiar to Mexico — Great variety of 
 birds. 
 
 The soil of Mexico, though various, produces every 
 where the necessaries, and even the luxuries of life. 
 The Abbe Spolatro, who lately travelled through the 
 country, and who is an eminent botanist, enumerates in 
 his writings upwards of two thousand seven hundred 
 plants which are peculiar to this country ; and states it 
 us his opinion that there are nearly as many more, whiclj^ 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. . 235 
 
 are esteemed, some for their flowers, some for their fruits, 
 some for their leaves, some for their roots, some for their 
 trunk, or their wood, and others for their gum, resin, oil, 
 or juice. 
 
 Mexico abounds with a great variety of flowers, many 
 of which are peculiar to the country, while multitudes 
 of others, imported from Europe and Asia, rival in lux- 
 ^uriance the plants of the native country. 
 
 The fruits are some of them natives of the Canary 
 islands, and others of Spain, besides those which are the 
 natural growth of the country. The exotics are water- 
 melons, apples, pears, peaches, quinces, apricots, pome- 
 granates, figs, black cherries, walnuts, almonds, olives, 
 chesnuts, and grapes ; though these last are likewise na- 
 tives. There are two kinds of wild vine found in the 
 country, one of which resembles the common vine in 
 its shoots and in the figure of its leaves ; . it pro- 
 duces large red grapes, covered with a hard skin, 
 but of a sweet and grateful taste, which w^puld undoubt- 
 edly greatly improve by culture. The grape of the other 
 kind is large, hard, and of a harsh taste, but they make 
 an excellent conserve of it. 
 
 Clavegero is of opinion that the cocoa ti*ee, plantain, 
 citron, orange, and lemon, came fi'om the Philippine and 
 Canary islands ; but it is certain that these, as well as 
 other trees, thrive in this country as well as in their native 
 soil. 
 
 All the maritime parts of the country abound with co- 
 coanut trees. They have seven kinds of oranges, and 
 five of lemons ; they have likewise four kinds of plantains, 
 the largest of which, called the zapala, is from fifteen to 
 i wenty inches long, and about three in diameter ; it i;^' 
 
'236 KEKS TRAVELS, 
 
 hard, but little esteemed, and only eaten when roasted or 
 boiled. The platano largo, or large plantain, is about 
 eight inches long and one and a half in diameter ; the 
 skin is at first green, but becomes blackish when perfectly 
 ripe. The guirco is a smaller fruit, but richer, softer, 
 and more delicious, though not so wholesome. A spe- 
 cies of plantain called the dominico, is smaller and more 
 delicate than the others. There are whole woods of plan» 
 tain trees, oranges, and lemons ; and the people of Mi- 
 chuacan carry on a considerable trade with the dried 
 plantains, which are preferable either to raisins or figs. 
 
 The Abbe Spolatro enumerates thirty-eight different 
 species of fruit, natives of Mexico, besides many others, 
 the names of which are not mentioned. 
 
 Hernandez, another writer, mentions four kinds of 
 cocoa, the smallest kind of which was in the most use, for 
 making chocolate and other drinks daily made use ofj 
 the other kinds served rather for money in commerce than, 
 for aliment. The cocoa was one of the plants most cul- 
 tivated in the countries of the empire, and many of the 
 provinces paid their tribute to the emperor in this article, 
 particularly that of Xoconocho, the cocoa of which was 
 particularly esteemed. 
 
 Cotton was one of the most valuable productions of the 
 country, as it served instead of flax, though this last arti- 
 cle was also produced in the country : it is of two kinds, 
 the white and tawny coloured. 
 
 The inhabitants of this country make use of rocou, or 
 Brazil-wood, in their dying, as do also the Europeans, 
 Cordage is made of the bark of the same tree, and the 
 ivood is also made use of to produce fire by friction. 
 
 The principal grain of Mexico, before the introduce 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 237 
 
 tion of that article from Europe, was maize, called by the 
 Mexicans tluslis, of which there were several kinds, dif- 
 fering in size, weight, colour, and taste. This kind of 
 grain was brought from Mexico to Spain, and from Spain 
 to other countries of Europe. 
 
 The French bean was the principal kind of pulse 
 in use among them, of which there were more species 
 than of the maize : the largest was called ayacotli, which 
 was of the size of the common bean, and had a beautiful 
 red flower ; but the most esteemed was the small black, 
 heavy French bean. This kind of pulse, which is not 
 good in Italy, is in Mexico so excellent that it not only 
 serves for sustenance to the poorer class of people, but is 
 esteemed a luxury by the Spanish nobility. 
 
 Of the excellent roots of Mexico, the following were 
 the most remarkable : the xicama, called by the Mexi- 
 cans catzotl ; this root is about the size and shape of an 
 onion, solid, fresh, juicy, and of a white colour ; it is 
 always eaten raw. The camate is another kind very 
 common in the country, of which there are three sorts, 
 white, yellow, and purple ; this kind is best when boiled. 
 The cacomite is the root of a plant which has a beautiful 
 flower called the tiger-flower, with three red pointed 
 petals, the middle part mixed with white and red, some- 
 what resembling the spots of the animal from which it 
 takes its name. The huacamate is the root of a kind of 
 cassavi plant, and is likewise boiled. The papa, a root 
 which has been transplanted into Europe and greatly ad- 
 mired for its delicacy and good flavour, was brought frorn 
 South America into Mexico. Besides these ^^ hich have 
 been mentioned, they liave a great numlicr of kitchen 
 
238 KER'S TRAVELb, 
 
 vegetables, imported from the Canaries, Spain, and other 
 countries of Europe. 
 
 The American aloe is very similar to the real one, and 
 is a plant of which the Mexicans did formerly, and the 
 Spaniards do at present, make great use. 
 
 They have in this country a variety of palm trees, from 
 the fibres of which tliey make thread : the bark of some 
 of them, to the depth of three fingers, is a mass of mem> 
 branes, of which the poor people make mats : the leaves 
 of others are used as ornaments at tlieir festivals ; they 
 are round, gross, white, and shining, and have the ap- 
 pearance of shells heaped one upon another. A fourth 
 kind bears nuts called escoas, or nuts of oil ; these nuts 
 are of the size of a nutmeg, having in the inside a white, 
 oily, eatable kernel, covered by a thin purple pellicle« 
 The oil has a sweet scent, and is easily condensed, when 
 it becomes a soft mass, as white as snow. 
 
 Of timber trees there are a great variety, not inferior 
 to any in the world ; ahd as there are a variety of climates 
 in the country, every one produces a kind of wood pe- 
 culiar to itself. There are whole woods of cedars, and 
 ebonies ; vast quantities of agallochum, or wood of 
 aloes ; besides others, valuable on account of their weight, 
 durability, and hardness, or for their being easily cut, 
 pliable, of a fine colour, or an agreeable smell. There 
 are also in Mexico, innumerable trees remarkable for their 
 size. Acosta, mentions a cedar, the trunk of which was 
 sixteen fathoms in circumference ; and I measured one 
 which was one hundred and ten feet in length. In the 
 city of Mexico I saw tables capable of accommodating 
 twenty persons, made out of a single plank. In the 
 valley of Atlixco is a very large fir tree, which would 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 239 
 
 Conveniently hold fourteen horsemen ; nay, we are in- 
 formed by the archbishop of Toledo, that in 1770 he 
 went to view it along with the archbishop of Gautamala, 
 at which time he caused a hundred young lads to enter its 
 cavity. Our author mentions some other trees of the 
 species called ceiba, which for magnitude may be com- 
 pared with this celebrated fir : " The largeness of these 
 trees," says he, " is proportioned to their prodigious ele- 
 vation, and they afford a most delightful prospect at the 
 time they are adorned with new leaves, and loaded with 
 fruit, in which there is enclosed a particular species of 
 fine white cotton ; this might be, and perhaps is made 
 into webs as soft, delicate, and perhaps more so than silk ; 
 but it is toilsome to spin, on account of the smallness of 
 the threads, and the profit does not requite the labour, 
 the web not being lasting. Some use it for pillows, and 
 matrasses, which have the singular property of expanding 
 enormously when exposed to the heat of the sun." 
 De Bomane says, ** That the Africans make of the 
 thread of the ceiba, that vegetable taffeta which is so 
 scarce and so much esteemed in Europe. The scarcity 
 of such cloth is not to be wondered at, considering tlie 
 difiiculty of making it. The ceiba is higher than all 
 other trees yet known.'* 
 
 The tree producing liquid amber, the liquid storax of 
 the Mexicans, is of a large size ; the leaves are similar 
 to those of the maple, indented, white in one part and 
 dark in tlie other, disposed of threes ; the fruit is thorny 
 and round, but polygonal, with the surface and thcr 
 angles yellow ; the bark of the tree partly green and 
 partly tawney. By incision in the trunk, they extract 
 ihnt A-aUiable substance named liquid amber, and the oil 
 
i240 ^ KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 of the same name which is still more valuable. Liquid 
 amber is likewise obtained from a decoction of the 
 branches, but it is inferior to that obtained from the 
 trunk. 
 
 The name copalli, in Mexico, is generic, and common 
 to all the resins, but especially signifies those made use 
 of for incense. There are ten species of these trees, 
 yielding resins of this kind, the principal of which is that 
 from which the copal is got, so well known in medicine 
 and varnishes. A great quantity of this was made use of 
 by the ancient Mexicans, and is still used for similar 
 purposes by the Spaniards. The tecopalli, or tepeco- 
 palli^ is a resin similar to the incense of Arabia, which 
 distils from a tree of moderate size that grows in the 
 mountains, having a fruit like an acorn, and containing 
 the nut inveloped in a mucilage, within which there is a 
 small kernel useful in medicine. 
 
 The misquitl, or mesquite, is a species of true acacia^ 
 and the gum distilling from it is said to be the true gum 
 arabic. It is a thorny slirub, with branches irregularly 
 disposed, the leaves small, thin, and finnated, and the 
 flowers like those of the birch tree ; the fi*uit is sweet and 
 eatable, and contains a seed of which the barbarous 
 Chickemacas used to make a kind of paste which served 
 them for bread. The wood is exceedingly hard and 
 heavy, and the trees are as common in Mexico as oaks 
 are in Europe. 
 
 Of the elastic gums, which are found in plenty in 
 Mexico, the natives used to make foot-balls, which, 
 though heavy, have a better spring than those filled with 
 air. At present they use these gums to varnish their 
 hats, cloaks, great-coats, and boots, in a manner similar 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 241 
 
 to what is done in Europe with wax, and by which mean<^ 
 they are all rendered water proof. 
 
 Clavegero laments that the history of vegetables in 
 Mexico is very little known, and that of animals no bet- 
 ter. Although there have been several writers of consid- 
 erable abilities since his time, yet much remains to be 
 explored, and a vast field is still open to the botanist and 
 zoologist, well worthy of attention ^ 
 
 *' The first Spaniards,'' says he, *' who gave them 
 names, were more skilful in the art of war than in the 
 study of nature. Instead of retaining the terms which 
 would have been most proper, they denominated many 
 animals tigers, wolves, bears, dogs, squirrels, &c. 
 although they were very different, merely from some 
 resemblance in the colour of their skin, their figure, or 
 some similarity in habits and disposition." 
 
 The quadrupeds found in Mexico at the arrival of the 
 Spaniards were, lions, tigers, wild cats, bears, wolves, 
 foxes, the common stag, white stags, bucks, wild goats, 
 badgers, polecats, weazels, martins, squirrels, polatucas, 
 rabbits, hares, otters, and rats. All these animals are 
 supposed to be common to both continents. The white 
 stag, whether it be the same as the other kind or not, is 
 undoubtedly common to both, and was known to the 
 Greeks and Romans. The Mexicans call it the " kinsi; 
 of the stags." \ 
 
 M. Buffon imagines the white colour of this stag to be 
 the effect of captivity ; but Clavegero say a that it is found 
 wild, and of the same white colour, on almost all the 
 mountains. In many other points, the opinions of this 
 r.elebrated naturalist are erroneous, as he will not allow 
 
242 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 the lion, the tiger, or the rabbit, to be natives of thi^ 
 country. 
 
 The animals which are common to Mexico with the 
 other parts of the continent, are the Mexican hog, the mou- 
 sete, the opossum, the armidillo, and the techichi, a small 
 animal resembling a dog, which being perfectly dumb, 
 gave occasion for the report that the Mexican dogs could 
 not bark. The fiesh of this animal was esteemed an 
 agreeable and nourishing food. After the conquest of 
 Mexico, the Spaniards, having neither large cattle nor 
 sheep, provided their markets with this animal, by which 
 means the species became extinct, though it had been 
 very numerous. 
 
 The land squirrel is very numerous in the kingdom 
 of Michuachan ; it has great elegance of form, and is 
 extremely graceful in its movements, but it cannot be 
 tamed, and bites most furiously every person v/ho ap- 
 proaches it. 
 
 Besides these, there are sea-lions, raccoons, and that 
 voracious animal named the tapir. There are likewise 
 great numbers of moiikies, of many diiferent kinds, some 
 of which have heads resembling those of dogs^ and some 
 of them are strong and fierce, equalling a man in stature 
 when they stand upright. 
 
 Among the animals peculiar to Mexico, is one named 
 by Clavegero the coyoto, which appears to have been in- 
 accurately described by historians, some making it of one 
 species, and some of another. The tlacojotl, or ilelcoyoi 
 to, is about the size of a middling dog, and in my opin- ^ 
 ion is the largest animal living under the earth. The 
 tepeizelutly, or mountain dog, though it is but of the 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 24^ 
 
 size of a small dog, is so bold that it attacks deer, and 
 sometimes kills them. 
 
 Another animal, larger than either of the two former, 
 is called the xoloitzcuintli ; some of these are no less 
 than four feet in length ; its face resembles that of the 
 dog, and it has tusks like the wolf; its ears are erect, 
 its neck is gross, and its tail long. This animal is en- 
 tirely destitute of hair except on the snout, where there 
 are some thick crooked bristles ; the whole body is 
 covered with a smooth, soft, ash-coloured skin, with 
 black and tawny spots. This species of animalsj as well 
 as the two former, are almost totally extinct. 
 
 An animal called ocstochly, a kind of wild cat, is re- 
 mai'kable, more for the fabulous account of it, than for 
 any singular property with which it is really endowed. 
 According to the account of Dr. Hernandez, when this 
 creature takes any prey, it covers it with leaves, and af- 
 terwards, mounting on some neighbouring tree, it begins 
 howling, to invite other animals to partake of its prey, be- 
 ing itself always the last to eat, because the poison of its 
 tongue is so strong, 'that if it ate first the prey would be 
 infected, and the other animals which should eat would 
 die. To these must be added a curious animal of the mole 
 kind, which is called the tozan, or tuza ; it is about the 
 size of an European mole, but very different in other 
 respects. 
 
 The birds are so numerous, and of such various ap- 
 pearance and qualities, that Mexico has been called the 
 country of birds, as Africa is that of quadrupeds. A 
 late celebrated writer describes upwards of four hundred 
 birds peculiar to this country. The eagles and hawks of 
 Mexico have a superiority over those of Europe ; and 
 
244 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 the falcons were formerly esteemed so excellent, that by 
 the desire of Philip II. an hundred of them were every 
 year sent over to Spain. The largest, the most beautiful, 
 and the most valuable kind of eagles, is that called by the 
 Mexicans itzquachli, which will pursue, not only the lar- 
 ger kinds of birds, but quadrupeds, and even men. 
 
 I'he aquatic birds are very numerous, and of great va- 
 riety ; there are at least twenty species of ducks, a vast 
 variety of geese, with several kinds of herons, swans, 
 quails, water-rails, divers, king-fishers, pelicans, &:c. 
 The multitude of ducks is so great that they sometimes 
 cover the fields, and appear at a distance like flocks of 
 sheep. Some of the herons and egrets are perfectly 
 Avhite, and some ash-coloured ; others have the plumage 
 of the body white, while the neck, the top and upper 
 parts of the v/ings, and part of the tail, are enlivened with 
 n bright scarlet, or beautiftil blue. 
 
 There are a great number of birds that are valuable 
 on account of their plumage, which was made use of by 
 the Mexicans in their excellent mosaic work, an art 
 which seems now to be totally lost. Peacocks have been 
 brought from the old continent to Mexico, but not being 
 attended to, have propagated very slowly. 
 
 The birds remarkable for their songs are likewise very 
 numerous ; among these, that called the centzouilt, by 
 Europeans the mock-bird, is most remarkable, on ac- 
 count of its counterfeiting the notes of all others it hears- 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 245 
 
 CHAP. XXIV. 
 
 Description of the reptiles found in Mexico — Extraor- 
 dinary size of some of them — Large frogs — Descrip- 
 tion of the flying insects — TForms — Description of 
 the zoophytes found on trees, 
 
 Mexico, as well as all other countries in America, 
 abounds with reptiles, many of which are of an enormous 
 size. In the course of my travels I have had occasion to 
 mention several, whose extraordinary length may have 
 been thought to have been exaggerated ; but although 
 not very common, they are frequently met with, and are 
 mentioned by others without much surprise. 
 
 The crocodiles are not less to be dreaded than those 
 of Africa or Asia, There are likewise some of those mon^ 
 strous serpents which are met with in the East- Indies and 
 in South- America, (and one of them, it will be recollected, 
 I killed, and particularly described,) though happily they 
 are not numerous, being seldom to be met with in any 
 place but in woods and other unfrequented places. 
 
 There are great numbers of lizards, some of which are 
 supposed to be poisonous, but I think this opinion is ilL 
 founded. 
 
 There are several kinds of poisonous serpents, of which 
 the rattlesnake is one. Another kind of poisonous ser-. 
 pents is the cemecoatl, which is remarkable for having a 
 luminous appearance in the dark, by which, as by the 
 ratding noise of the rattlesnake, travellers are warned of 
 their danger. 
 
246 KER'S TRAVELSo 
 
 Among the harmless snakes is a very beautiful one 
 about a foot in length, and of the thickness of the little 
 finger : th'fs snake seems to take great pleasure in the 
 society of ants, insomuch that it will accompany these 
 insects on their expeditions, and return with them to their 
 usual rest : it is called both by the Spaniards and Mex- 
 icans ''the mother of ants." An eminent writer sup- 
 poses, that all the attachment which this snake shows to 
 the ant-hill, is occasioned by its living on the ants them- 
 selves* 
 
 The ancient Mexicans were wont to take delight in 
 keeping a harmless green snake which they caught in 
 the fields, and which, when well fed, would grow to the 
 length of five or six feet. It was generally kept in a 
 tub, which it never left but to receive food from the 
 hand of his master, and this it would take either mounted 
 on his shoulder, or coiled about his legs. 
 
 The aquatic animals are innumerable. Clavegero 
 mentions a species of frogs which are so large that a 
 single one will weigh a pound, and which are excellent 
 food. Of fish proper for food, he says he has counted 
 upwards of one hundred, without taking in the turtle^ 
 crab, or any other crustaceous fish. 
 
 Of flying, and other minute insects, the number is pro- 
 digiously great. There are a variety of beetles ; some, 
 of a green colour, make a great noise in travelling, on 
 which account they are much esteemed by children. 
 There are great numbers of shining beetles, as well as 
 luminous flies, which abound in the country, which make 
 a delightful appearance. 
 
 There are six kinds of bees, and four kinds of wasps ; 
 of which last, one collects wax, and honey of a very sweet 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 247 
 
 taste : another is called the wandenng wasp, from its fre- 
 quent change of abode, and in consequence of these 
 changes it is constantly employed in collecting materials 
 for its habitations. There is also a black hornet with a 
 red tail, the sting of which is so large and strong that it 
 will not only penetrate a sugar-cane, but even the trunk 
 of a tree. 
 
 The lake of Mexico abounds with a kind of fly, the 
 eggs of which are deposited upon the flags and rushes 
 in such quantities as to form large masses ; these are 
 collected by the fishermen, and cai'ried to market for 
 sale ; they are eaten both by Mexicans and Spaniards, 
 and have much the same taste as the caviare of fish. 
 The Mexicans also eat the flies themselves, ground and 
 made up with saltpetre. 
 
 There are abundance of gnats on takes and in moist 
 places, but the capital, by the late improvements which 
 have taken place, is rendered entirely free from them. 
 There are other flies which make no noise in their flighty 
 but whose bite causes a violent itching, and if the part be 
 scratched, an open wound is apt to ensue. 
 
 The butterflies are very numerous, and their wingSj: 
 glow with colours far superior to those of Europe : the 
 figures of some of them are given by Hernandez. 
 
 But, with all its beauties and advantages, Mexico is 
 subject to the dreadful devastations of locusts, which 
 sometimes occasion destructive famines. 
 
 There are some of the worms of Mexico made use of 
 by the inhabitants as food ; others are poisonous. There 
 are great numbers of scolopendrse, and scorpions ; some 
 of the former growing to an immense size. Hernandez: 
 ^ys that he has seen some of them two feet two inches 
 
248 KEIVS TRAVELS. 
 
 thick. The scorpions are very numerous, and, in the 
 hot parts of the country, their poison is so strong as to 
 kill children, and give terrible pain to adults. Their 
 sting is most dangerous during those hours of the day 
 in which the sun is hottest. 
 
 In the province of Michuacan is a singular species of 
 ant, larger than the common one, with a greyish body 
 and black head ; on its hinder parts is a little bag, full of 
 a sweet substance, of which children are very fond* 
 The Mexicans suppose this to be a kind of honey col- 
 lected by the insect ; but I think it rather the eggs. 
 
 There is a mischievous kind of tick, which in the hot 
 countries abounds among the grass : from thence it easily 
 gets upon the clothes, and from them upon the skin ; 
 there it fixes with such force, from the particular figure 
 of its feet, that it can scarcely be got off. At first it 
 seems nothing but a small black speck, but in a short 
 time enlai'ges to such a degree, from the blood which it 
 sucks, that it equals the size of a bean, and then assumes 
 a leaden colour. Oviedo, a celebrated Spanish writer^ 
 says the best and safest method of getting speedily rid of 
 % is by anointing the part with oil, and then scraping it 
 with a knife. If it is not speedily removed, a wound is 
 made similar to that which the rigera, or chegoe makes. 
 
 The following insects were eaten by the ancient 
 Mexicans, viz. fhe atilepitz, a marsh grasshopper, of a 
 dark colour and great size, being not less than six inches 
 long and two broad. The atopiana, a marsh beetle, re- 
 sembling in shape and size the flying beetle, having four 
 feet, and covered with a hard shell. The abuillhuila, a 
 worm which inhabits the Mexican lake, four inches long, 
 and of the thickness of a goose quill, of a tawny colour 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 249 
 
 On the upper part of the body, and white upon the under 
 part ; it stings with its tail, which is hard and poisonous. 
 The ocuithtz, a black marsh worm, which becomes white 
 on being roasted. 
 
 Among the curious productions of the animal kind to 
 be met with in this country, Clavegero mentions a kind 
 of zoophytes, which he saw in the year 1751, in a house 
 in the country, about ten miles from the city of Angelo- 
 poli, towards the southeast ; they are three or four inches 
 long, and have four Very long slender feet, with two 
 antennas. Their body is nothing more than the fibres of 
 the leavesj of the same shape, size, and colour, with 
 those of the other leaves of the trees upon which these 
 creatures are found. The zoophytes, how^ever, are very 
 rare, there being but four in the whole city of Mexico^ 
 which are kept in the cabinets of the curious. 
 
 Cochineal is one of the most "\'aluable products of 
 Mexico, and great care is taken to rear the insect m 
 different parts. The best is that which comes from the 
 province of the Mixtecas. Some have reckoned that 
 more than two thousand five hundred bags of cochineal 
 are sent every year from Mixteca to Spain ; and the trade 
 in that article, can'ied on by the city of Oaxala, is com * 
 puted at two hundred thousand crowns T'alue, 
 
250 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 Particular description of the inhabitants of the Mexican 
 empire — llliberality of denying them the talent of in- 
 vention — Disinterestedness of their character — Com- 
 parison between the ancient and modern Mexicans — 
 Some particulars of the Mestees — Inhumanity of the 
 first conquerors of Mexico — Humane interposition of 
 Bartholomew Las Casas— Partial emancipation of the 
 Indians — Inefficacy of it — llliberality of the Spanish 
 government — Employments of the Mexicans > 
 
 Xhough Mexico was originally inhabited by a number 
 of different nations, yet all of them much resembled 
 each other, not only in character, but in their external 
 appearance. *' They generally rather exceed than fall 
 luider the middle size, and are well proportioned in all 
 their limbs. They have good complexions, narrow fore- 
 heads, black eyes, clean, white, firm, and regular teeth; 
 thick, black, coarse, glossy hair ; thin beards, and gene- 
 rally no hair upon their legs, thighs, and arms. Theii' 
 skin is of an olive colour. There is scarcely a nation on 
 earth in which there ai'e fewer persons deformed ; and 
 it would be more difficult to find a single hump-backed, 
 lamcj or squint-eyed man, among a thousand Mexicans, 
 than among an hundred of any other nation. 
 
 ^' The unpleasantness of their colour, the smallness of 
 their foreheads, the thinness of their beards, and the 
 coarseness of their hair, are so far compensated by the 
 regularity and fine proportion of their limbs, that they 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 25 i 
 
 t:an neither be called very beautiful nor the contrary, but 
 seem to hold a middle place between the extremes ; their 
 appearance neither engages nor disgusts. But among the 
 young women of Mexico there are many very beautiful 
 and fair, whose beauty is at the same time rendered more 
 winning by the natural sweetness of their manner of speak- 
 ing, and by the pleasantness and natural modesty of their 
 whole behaviour. 
 
 " Their senses are veiy acute, particularly that of 
 sight, which they enjoy unimpaired to the latest age. 
 Their constitutions are sound, and their health robust : 
 they are entirely free of many disorders which ai'e com- 
 mon among the Spaniards ; but of the epidemical dis- 
 eases to ^vhich their country is occasionally subject, they 
 are generally the victims ; with them these diseases begin, 
 and with them they end. One never perceives in a 
 Mexican that stinking breatli which is occasioned in oth- 
 er people by the corruption of the humours, or indiges- 
 tion. Their constitutions are phlegmatic ; but the pitui- 
 tous evacuations from their heads are very scanty, and 
 they seldom spit. They become grey-headed and bald 
 earlier than the Spaniards ; and although most of them 
 die with acute diseases, it is not ver}^ uncommon among 
 them to attain the age of an hundred. They are now, 
 and ever have been, moderate in eating, but their pas- 
 sion for strong liquors is carried to the greatest excess ; 
 formerly they were kept w^ithin bounds by the severity of 
 the laws, but now that these liquors have become so com- 
 mon they are unrestrained, and one half of the people 
 seem to have lost their senses ; and this, together with 
 the poor manner in which they live, exposed to all the 
 baneful impressions of disease, and destitute of the means 
 
252 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 of correcting them, is undoubtedly the principal cause of 
 the havoc which is made among them by epidemical dis- 
 orders. 
 
 " Many persons allow the Mexicans to possess a great 
 talent at imitation, but deny them that of invention : a 
 vulgar error, which is contradicted by the ancient histo- 
 ry of that people. Their minds are affected by the same 
 variety of passions with those of other nations, but not to 
 an equal degree : the Mexicans seldom exhibit those 
 transports of anger, or frenzies of love, which are so com- 
 mon in other countries. They are slow in their motions, 
 and show a wonderful tenacity and steadiness in those 
 works which require time and long continued attention. 
 They are most patient under injuries and hardships, and 
 w^here they suspect no evil intention, are most grateful 
 for any kindness shewn ; but some Spaniards, who can- 
 not distinguish patience from insensibility, nor distrust 
 from ingratitude, say proverbially that the Indians are 
 alike insensible to injuries or benefits. That habitual 
 distrust which they entertain of a^l who are not of their 
 nation, prompts them often to lie and betray, so that good 
 faith certainly has not been respected among them- so 
 much as it deserves. They are by nature taciturn, seri- 
 ous, and austere, and show more anxiety to punish crimes 
 than to reward virtue. 
 
 " Generosity and disinterestedness are the principal fea- 
 tures of their character. Gold, with the Mexican, has not 
 that value which it possesses with others. They seem 
 to give without reluctance what it has cost them the ut- 
 most labour to acquire. The neglect of selfish interests, 
 with the dislike which they bear to their rulers, and con- 
 i^equently their aversion to perform the tasks imposed by 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 253 
 
 them, seem to have been the only ground for the much 
 exaggerated charge of indolence against the Mexicans ; 
 and after all, there is no set of people in that country who 
 labour more, or whose labour is more necessary. 
 
 " The respect paid by the young people to the aged, 
 and by children to their parents, seem to be a prin- 
 ciple born with them. Parents are very fond of their 
 children ; but the affection which husbands bear to their 
 wives is certainly less than that which wives bear to their 
 husbands ; and it is very common for the men to love 
 their neighbours' wives better than their own. 
 
 " Courage and cowardice seem alternately so to affect 
 their minds, that it is often difficult to determine whether 
 the one or the other predominates : they meet dangjers 
 with intrepidity when they proceed from natural causes, 
 but are easily terrified by the stern looks of a Spaniard. 
 That stupid indifference about ' death and eternity, which 
 some authors have thought inherent in the character of 
 every Mexican, is peculiar only to those who are yet so 
 rude and uninformed as to have no idea of a future 
 state." 
 
 Thus much with respect to the general character of 
 the Mexicans ; but, as an eminent writer observes, '' the 
 modern Mexicans are not in all respects similar to the 
 ancient, as the Greeks of these days have little reserat- 
 blance to those who lived in the times of Plato and Peri- 
 cles. The ancient Mexicans shewed more fire, and 
 were more sensible to the impressions of honour ; they 
 ■were more intrepid, more njmble, more active, more in- 
 dustrious, but they ^vere at the same time more supersti- 
 tious and cruel." 
 
 The Mestecs, who constitute a third order of citizen'i. 
 
254 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 are held in very gi*eat contempt. It is well known that 
 the court of Madrid, in order to replenish a part of that 
 dreadful vacancy which the avarice and cruelty of the 
 conquerors had occasioned, and to regain the confidence 
 of those who had escaped their fury, encouraged as much 
 as possible the marriage of Spaniards with Indian women : 
 these alliances, which became pretty common throughout 
 Spanish America, were particularly frequent in Mexico, 
 where the women had more understanding, and ^vere 
 more agreeable than in other places. The Creoles trans- 
 ferred to this mixed progeny the contemptuous slight 
 they received from the Europeans : their condition, equi- 
 vocal at first, in process of time became fixed between 
 the whites and the blacks. 
 
 These blacks are not very numerous in Mexico. As 
 the natives are more intelligent, more industrious, and 
 more robust, than those of the other colours, they have 
 hardly introduced any Africans, except such as were re- 
 quired either to indulge the caprice, or perform the do- 
 mestic service of the rich people. These slaves, who are 
 much beloved by their masters, on whom they absolutely 
 depend, who purchased them at an extravagant price, and 
 who make them the ministers of their pleasures, take ad- 
 vantage of the high favour they enjoy, to oppress the 
 Mexicans : they assume over these men who are called 
 free, an ascendancy, which keeps up an implacable 
 hatred between the two nations. The law has studied 
 to encourage this aversion, by taking effectual measures 
 to prevent all connexion between them. Negroes are 
 prohibited from having any amorous correspondence with 
 the Indian women ; the men on pain of being mutilated, 
 the women of being severely punished. On all these 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. ' 255 
 
 Accounts, the Africans, who in other settlements are ene- 
 mies to Europeans, are in the Spanish Indies their warm 
 friends. 
 
 Authority has no need of this support, at least in Mex- 
 ico, where population is no longer what it was formerly. 
 The first historians, and* those who copied them, have 
 recorded that the Spaniards found in Mexico ten millions 
 of souls. This is supposed to have been the exagge- 
 rated account of conquerors, to exalt the splendour of 
 their triumph ; and it ^vas adopted without examination 
 with so much the more readiness, as it rendered them, 
 the more odious. We need only trace with attention 
 the progress of those ruffians who at first desolated these 
 fine countries, in order to be convinced that they had hot 
 succeeded in multiplying men at Mexico and the adja- 
 cent parts, but by depopulating the centre of the empire;: 
 and that the provinces which are remote from the capital; 
 differed in nothing from the other deserts in South and 
 North America. It is making a great concession to al- 
 }o\v that the population of Mexico has been exaggerated 
 one half, for it does not now much exceed two mill- 
 ions. 
 
 It is generally believed that the first conquerors mas 
 sacred the Indians out of wantonness, and that even the 
 priests incited them to these acts of ferocity. Undoubt- 
 cdly these inhuman soldiers frequently shed blood with 
 out even an apparent motive ; and certainly the fanatic 
 missionaries did not oppose these barbarities as they ought 
 to have done. 
 
 This was not however the real cause, the principc^ 
 source of the depopulation of Mexico ; it was the work 
 "^f a slow tvrannv, and of that avarice which exacted front 
 
256 KEB'S TRAVELS. 
 
 its wretched inhabitants more rigorous toil than was com- 
 patible with their constitution and the climate. 
 
 This oppression was coeval with the conquest of the 
 country. All the lands were divided between the crown, 
 the companions of Cortez, and the grandees, or minis- 
 ters, who were most in favour at the court of Spain. 
 The Mexicans appointed to the royal domains, were des- 
 tined to public labours, which originally were considera- 
 ble. The lot of those who were employed on the estates 
 of individuals, was still more wretched : all groaned 
 under a dreadful yoke. They were ill fed, and had no 
 wages given them. Services were required of them, 
 under which the most robust men would have sunk. 
 
 Their misfortunes excited the compassion of Barthol- 
 omew DeLas Casas. This man, so famous in the 
 annals of the new world, had^ accompanied his father, in 
 the first voyage made by Columbus. The mildness and 
 simplicity of the Indians affected him so strongly, that he 
 made himself an ecclesiastic, in order to devote his 
 labours to their conversion ; but this soon became the 
 least of his attention. As he was more a man than a 
 priest, he felt more for the cruelties exercised against 
 them than for their superstition. He was continually 
 hurrying from one hemisphere to the other, in order to 
 comfort the people for whom he had conceived an at- 
 tachment, or to soften their tyrants. This conduct, 
 which made him idolized by the one, and dreaded by 
 the other, had not the success he expected. 
 
 The hope of striking awe, by a character revered 
 among the Spaniards, induced him to accept the bish- 
 opric of Chiapa, in Mexico. When he was convinced 
 that this dignity was an insufficient barrier against that 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 257 
 
 avarice and cruelty which he endeavoured to check, he 
 abdicated it. It was then, that this courageous, firm, 
 disinterested man, accused his country before the tri- 
 bunal of the whole universe. In his account of the 
 tyranny of the Spaniards in America, he accuses them of 
 having destroyed fifteen millions of the Indians. They 
 ventured to find fault with the acrimony of his style, but 
 no one accused him of exaggeration. His writings^ 
 which indicate the amiable turn of his disposition, and 
 the sublimity of his sentiments, have stamped a disgrace 
 upon his barbarous countrymen, which time has not, nor 
 never will have power to efface. 
 
 The court of Madrid, awakened by the representations 
 of the virtuous Las Casas, and by the indignation of the 
 whole world, became sensible at last, that the tyranny it 
 permitted was jrepugnant to religion, to humanity, and to 
 policy, and resolved to break the chains of the Mexicans. 
 Their liberty was now only restrained, by the sole con- 
 dition that they should not quit the territory where they 
 were settled. This precaution owed its origin to the 
 fear that was entertained of their going to join the wan- 
 dering savages to the north and south of the empire. 
 
 With their liberty, their lands ought to have been re- 
 stored to them ; but this was not done. This injustice 
 compelled them to work solely for their oppressors. It 
 was only decreed that the Spaniards in whose service 
 they laboured, should stipulate to keep them well, and 
 pay them to the amount of five pounds five shillings a. 
 year. 
 
 From these profits the tribute imposed by government 
 Was subtracted, together \vith four shillings four pence 
 half penny, for an institution which it is astonishing the 
 
 'f 
 
258 KER'S TRAVELS . 
 
 conquerors should have thought of estabhshing : this was 
 a fund set apart in each community, and appropriated to 
 the reUef of such Indians as were decayed or indisposed, 
 and to their support under private or pubUc calami- 
 ties. 
 
 The distribution of this fund was committed to their 
 caciques. These were not the descendants of those whom 
 they found in the country at the time of the conquest ; but 
 the Spaniards chose them from among those Indians who 
 appeared the most attached to their interests, and w^ere un- 
 der no apprehension from the circumstance of making these 
 dignitaries hereditary. Their authority was limited to the 
 support of tlie police in their district, which generally ex- 
 tends eight or ten leagues, to the collecting of the tribute 
 of those Indians who laboured on their own account, that 
 of the others being stopped by the masters whom they 
 served, and to the preventing of their flight, by keeping 
 them always under their inspection, and not suffering 
 them to contract any engagement without their consent. 
 As a reward for their services, these magistrates obtained 
 from government a property : they were permitted to 
 take out of the common stock two pence half penny an- 
 nually, for every Indian under their jurisdiction. At last 
 they were empowered to get their fields cultivated by 
 such } oung men as were not subject to the poll tax^; and 
 to employ girls till the time of their marriage, in such 
 occupations as were suited to their sex, without allowing 
 them any salary except their maintenance. 
 
 These institutions, which totally changed the condition 
 of the Indians in Mexico, irritated the Spaniards to a 
 degree not to be conceived. Their pride would not suf 
 liir them to consider the Americans as fi-eemcn, nor 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 259 
 
 would their avarice permit them to pay for labour which 
 hitherto had cost them nothing. They employed them- 
 selves successively, or in combinations, craft, remon- 
 strance, and violence, to effect the subversion of an ar- 
 rangement ^vhich so strongly contradicted their ^v^armest 
 passions ; but their efforts were ineffectual. Las Casas 
 had raised up for his beloved Indians, protectors who 
 seconded his design with zeal and warmth. The Mexi- 
 cans themselves, finding a support, impeached their op- 
 pressors before the tribunals that were either weak, or in 
 the interest of the court. They carried their resolution 
 so far as even unanimously to refuse to work for those 
 who had treated any of their countrymen with injustice. 
 This mutual agreement, more than any other circum- 
 stance, gave solidity to the regulations which had been 
 decreed ; the order prescribed by the laws was gradually 
 established. There was no longer any regular system of 
 oppression, but merely several of those particular vexa- 
 tions which a vanquished people who have lost their gov- 
 ernment can hardly avoid from those who have sub 
 dued it. 
 
 These clandestine acts of injustice did not prevent the 
 Mexicans from recovering, from time to time, certain de- 
 tached portions of that immense territory of ^vhich their 
 fathers had been despoiled. They purchased them of the 
 royal domain, or of the great proprietors. It was not 
 their labour which enabled them to make these acquisi- 
 tions ; for this they \vere indebted to the discovery of 
 some mines and other treasures which had been conceal- 
 ed at the time of the conquest. The greatest number 
 derived their resources from the priests and monks, tci 
 whom they owed their existence. 
 
260 KEE'S TRAVELS. 
 
 Even those who experienced a fortune less propitious, 
 procured for themselves by the sole profits of their pay, 
 more conveniences than they had enjoyed before they 
 yielded to a foreign yoke. We should be very much 
 deceived if we were to judge of the ancient prosperity of 
 the inhabitants of Mexico from what has been said by 
 different writers of its emperor, its court, its capital, and 
 the governors of its provinces. Despotism had there 
 produced those fatal effects which it produces every 
 where. The whole state was sacrificed to the caprices, 
 pleasures, and magnificence of a small number of per- 
 sons. 
 
 The government drew considerable advantages from 
 tlie mines which it caused to be ^vorked, and still greater 
 from those w^hich were in the hands of individuals. The 
 salt works greatly added to its* revenue. Those who fol- 
 lowed agriculture, at the time of harvest paid a kind of a 
 third of all the produce of the lands, whether they be- 
 longed to them as their property, or whether they w^ere 
 only the farmers of them. Men who lived by the chase, 
 fishermen, cotters, and all mechanicks, paid the same 
 proportion of their industry every month. Even the poor 
 were taxed at certain fixed contributions, which their la- 
 bour or their alms might put them in a condition to 
 pay. 
 
 The Mexicans are now less unhappy. European fruits, 
 corn, and cattle, have rendered their food more whole- 
 some, agi'eeable, and abundant. Their houses are better 
 built, better disposed, and better furjiished. Shoes, shirts, 
 drawers, and garments of wool or cotton, a ruff, and a 
 liat, constitute their dress. The dignity which it has 
 been agreed to annex to their enjoyments, has mad<^ 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 261 
 
 them better economists, and more laborious. This case, 
 however, is far from being universal ; it is even very 
 uncommon in the vicinity of mines, of towns, and of grait 
 roads, where tyranny seldom sleeps ; but we often find 
 it with satisfaction in remote parts, wliere the Spaniards 
 are not numerous, and where they have in some measure 
 become Mexicans. 
 
 The employments of this people are very various : the 
 most intelligent, and those who are in easy circumstances, 
 devote themselves to the most necessary and most useful 
 manufactures, which are dispersed through the whole 
 empire. The most beautiful manufactures are establish- 
 ed among the people of Lasca, their old capital, and the 
 new one, which is called Angelos, which are the centre 
 of this industr}^ In tliese places tliey manufacture cloth 
 that is pretty fine, calicoes" that have a handsome appear- 
 ance, certain slight silk goods, hats, gold lace, embroi- 
 dery, lace, glasses, and a great deal of hardware. 
 
 The care of flocks affords a maintenance to some Mex-^ 
 icans whom fortune or nature has not called to more dis- 
 tinguished employments. The single province of Tecu- 
 snan sends every year to Vera Cruz and Mexico, upwards 
 of 80,000 beeves, besides a large number of mules 
 and horses.. Their horses, it is said, have degenerated ; 
 but the quality is comj^easated by the number. They 
 substitute hog's lard in the place of butter. Their sheep 
 are numerous, but the wool is cairsc, dry, and bad, as 
 k is every where l^etwecji tlie tropics. 
 
 The vine and olive tree lias experienced the same de> 
 
 r:^eneracy ; the cultivation of them was at first pj'ohibited, 
 
 vith a view of leaving a free market for the commodities 
 
 >f tho mother rri}mtrv. Jn ] 706 perniissio/i was i:>Tantc<f 
 
262 KER^S TRAVELS. 
 
 to the Jesuits, and a little afterwards to the Marquis del 
 Valle, a descendant from Cortez, to cultivate them : the 
 attempts have not proved successful. The trials, indeed, 
 that have been made, have not been abandoned ; but no 
 person has solicited the liberty of following an example 
 which did not promise any great emoluments. Other 
 cultures have been more successful : cotton, sugar, silk, 
 cocoa, tobacco, and European com, have all thriven in 
 some degree. The Spaniards are encouraged to prosecute 
 the labours which these cultures require, from the happy 
 circumstance of their having discovered iron mines, which 
 were entirely unknown to the Mexicans, as well as some 
 mines of a kind of copper that is hard enough to serve for 
 implements of husbandry. However, from a want of 
 men of industry, scarcely any thing is raised more than 
 what is wanted for the consumption of the country : there 
 is only the vanilla, indigo, and cochineal, which make 5 
 part of the trade of Mexico with other nations. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 263 
 
 CHAP. XXVI. 
 
 General observations — Reviexv of the benefits which have 
 resulted to Europeans by the discovery of America — 
 Sketch of the history of the Mexican empire — Expe- 
 dition by Cortex — Death of Montezuma — Cruelties 
 practised upon Gautemozin — Entire subjugation of the 
 country by the Spaniards* 
 
 W^E have now given a long account of the empire 
 of Mexico, in which nothing has been omitted which 
 could give information, or throw any Hght upon a coun- 
 try which boasts of all the varieties of soil, from barren 
 rocks to fertile plains and vallies. The author does not 
 think it proper to pass on without giving a general ac- 
 count of its first subjugation by the Spaniards, In doing 
 this, the mind will be led with astonishment, to contem- 
 plate the many barbarities which were committed by 
 men who called themselves civilized, and whose osten- 
 sible reasons for invading the country were for the pur-^ 
 pose of obtaining proselytes to the religion of Jesus I 
 that religion which teaches us benevolence and good 
 wilj towards all m^n. 
 
 I cannot, however, with some authors, lament that 
 America was ever discovered. Although human depmvity 
 has depopulated one part of our continent of nearly seven 
 millions of inhabitants, who claimed possession imme- 
 diately from the hand of nature's God ; yet it has secured 
 an asylum for thousands ^vho were groaning under 
 tvranny and oppression in their native countr}^ ; ha'y 
 
264 KER'S TRAA'ELS. 
 
 given wealth and independence to a large portion who 
 were groaning in poverty and bondage at home ; and in 
 the United States, created seven millions of freemen, who, 
 having adopted a constitution by which they are enabled 
 to choose their own rulers, are governed by men of their 
 own choice, and laws which secure to every citizen the 
 free use of those rights which were transmitted to him by 
 his forefathers. 
 
 The empire of Mexico, after various attempts by 
 others, was finally subdued by Cortez, in the year 1325. 
 Montezuma was at that time emperor of Mexico. In 
 the course of the year he was treacherously taken by 
 Cortez, and held as a prisoner. During the imprison- 
 ment of Montezuma, Cortez and his army had made 
 repeated attacks on his subjects, but without success. 
 Cortez was now determined, as his last recourse, to try 
 what effect the interposition of Montezuma might have, 
 to soothe or overawe his subjects. This unfortunate 
 prince, at the mercy of the treacherous Spaniards, and 
 reduced to the sad necessity of becoming the instrument 
 of his own disgrace, and of the slavery of his subjects, 
 advanced to the battlements in his royal robes, in all the 
 pomp in which he used to appear on solemn occasions. 
 At sight of their sovereign, whom they had long been 
 accustomed to honour, and almost revere as a god, the 
 weapons dropped from their hands, every tongue was 
 silent, all bo^ved their heads, and many prostrated them- 
 selves on the ground. 
 
 Montezuma addressed them with every argument thaf 
 could mitigate tlieir rage, or persuade them from hostili- 
 ties. When he ended his discourse, a sullen murmur 
 of disapprobation ran through the crowd ; to this sue- 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 265 
 
 ceeded reproaches and threats, and dieir fury rising, in a 
 moment they violendy poured in whole flights of arrows, 
 and volHes of stones, upon this unhappy monarch. Two 
 of the arrows struck him in his body, which, with the 
 blow of a stone on his temple, put an end to his life. 
 
 Gautemozin succeeded Montezuma, and maintained 
 a vigorous ^opposition against the assaults of Cortez ; but 
 he, like his predecessor, after a noble defence, was forced 
 to submit, and his capital was wrested from him by 
 Cortez and his followers. 
 
 The exultation of the Spaniards, on accomplishing this 
 arduous enterprise, was at first excessive. But this was 
 quickly damped by the cruel disappointment of those 
 sanguine hopes which had animated them amidst so 
 many hardships and dangers. Instead of inexhaustible 
 weahh, which they expected from becoming masters of 
 Montezuma's treasures, and the ornaments of so many 
 temples, tlieir rapaciousness could collect only an incon- 
 siderable booty, amidst ruins and desolation. Gaute- 
 mozin, aware of his impending fate, had ordered what 
 remained of the riches amassed by his ancestors to be 
 thrown into the lake. The Indian auxiliaries, while the 
 Spaniards were engaged in conflict with tlie enemy, had 
 carried off" the most valuable part of the spoil. The 
 sum to be divided among the conquerors was so small, 
 that many of them disdained to accept of the pittance 
 which fell to their shar^* and all murmured and ex- 
 claimed, some against Cortez and his confidants, whom 
 they suspected of having secretly appropriated to their 
 
 * The gold and silver, according to Cortez, araonnted only to one hundred and 
 twenty thousand pieces, a sum far inferior to that wliich the Spaniards had for 
 raerly divided in Mexico. 
 
 34 
 
266 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 own use, a large portion of the riches which should have 
 been brought into the common stock ; others against 
 Gautemozin, whom tliey accused of obstinacy in refus- 
 ing to discoyer the place where he had hidden his treas- 
 ure. 
 
 Arguments, entreaties, and promises, were employed in 
 order to soothe them, but with so little effect, that Cortez, 
 from solicitude to check the growing spirit of discontent, 
 gave way to a deed which stained the glory of all his 
 great actions. Witl'iout regarding the former dignity of 
 Gautemozin, or feeling any reverence for those virtues 
 which he had displayed, he subjected the unhappy mon- 
 arch, together with his chief favourite, to torture, in 
 order to force from them a discovery of the royal treas- 
 ure, which it was supposed they had concealed. Gaute- 
 mozin bore whatever the refined cruelty of his tormen- 
 tors could inflict, with the invincible fortitude of an 
 American warrior. His fellow sufferer, overcome by 
 the violence of the anguish, turned a dejected eye to^ 
 wards his master, which seemed to implore his permis- 
 sion to reveal all he knew. But the high spirited prince 
 darted upon him a look of authority mingled with scorn, 
 and checked his weakness by asking, " Am / reposing 
 on a bed of flowers ?" Overawed by the reproach, he 
 persevered in his dutiful silence, and expired. Cortez, 
 ashamed of a scene so horrid, rescued the royal victim 
 from the hands of his torturers, and prolonged a life re- 
 served for new indignities and sufferings. 
 
 The fate of the capital, as both parties had foreseen, 
 decided that of the empire. The provinces submitted, 
 one after another, to the conquerors. Small detachments 
 af Spaniards marched tlii'ough them without interruption-. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 267 
 
 and penetrated in different quarters to the gi'eat South 
 ocean, which, according to the ideas of Cohimbus, they 
 imagined would open a short as well as an easy passage 
 to the East Indies, and secure to the crown of Castile all 
 the envied wealth of these fertile regions. The active 
 mind of Cortez already began to form schemes for at- 
 tempting this important discovery. In his after schemes, 
 however, he was disappointed, but Mexico has ever 
 since remained under the Spanish yoke ; although the 
 late struggles which have animated these injured people 
 to declare themselves free, seem to point out that the 
 time has now arrived when a dismemberment from a 
 Spanish despotism is about to take place, and the time 
 not far distant when the southern will be as free as the 
 northern parts of America. 
 
 In compiling this general view of the Mexican empire, 
 I have with considerable care selected from the latest and 
 most approved authorities. My residence in the city of 
 Mexico gave me an opportunity of consulting works 
 which were valuable and rare, and of receiving much 
 information from gentlemen who had been long resident 
 in the country. 
 
 I feel myself under particular obligations to Mr. I^a- 
 cour, and our vice-consul, Mr. Stephen, who were zeal- 
 ous to procure me all the information in their power, 
 which would be of service to me. To the principal of 
 the Jesuit's college, who allowed me free access to their 
 large and valuable library, and who furnished me with a 
 manuscript written by the celebrated Bomai'e, I feel par- 
 ticularly grateful. From the works of the famous Abbe 
 Clavegero, I have drawn much information and assist 
 ance= 
 
'26S KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 When we consider the important revokitions which 
 are taking place in this country, and the probabiUty that 
 she will one day or other become an independent country, 
 and by far the richest in the world as it respects minerals, 
 it cannot but be desirable to have an accurate account of 
 the country, and that too from such sources as may be 
 relied on. 
 
 CHAP. XXVIL 
 
 Author is taken up as a spy — Further residence in Mex- 
 ico rendered unsafe — Starts for St. Antonio — Arri- 
 val at that place — Description of it — Difficulty of pro- 
 curing a guide — Unexpected disappearance of Edom — - 
 His return — Set out on our journey — Singular con- 
 duct of my guide — Surrounded by banditti — Carried to 
 their cave — Conversatiofi with the captain of the gang 
 — Act in the capacity of a physician, and acquire the 
 friendship of the captain — Singular conversation, 
 
 February, 1814. I now thought of returning to the 
 United States, as my long residence in Mexico had en- 
 abled me to collect all the information in my power 
 respecting its soil, manners, customs, &cc. and letters 
 which I now received from my friends required my im- 
 mediate attention. A circumstance which occurred 
 about this time rendered my further stay here unpleasant, 
 and in some respects dangerous. The affair was this ; 
 during my residence in the city, I had had free access t© 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 269 
 
 many places which it is not common to allow strangers to 
 visit ; and in the course of my visits I frequently took 
 notes of such curiosities as I thought worthy of attention. 
 This had been observed by some of those informers, 
 who are scattered over every .despotic government, and 
 who obtain a living by depriving their fellow creatures of 
 liberty ; mformation was immediately given by them to 
 the officers of government, that 1 was a spy, acting under 
 the orders of a foreign government. I was watched still 
 closer, and some circumstances seeming to justify their 
 suspicion, I was arrested and conducted before the tri- 
 bunal. My papers, at the same time, were seized, and I 
 was not allowed to have communication with any one. 
 Fortunately, in all my writings I had avoided speaking 
 unfavourably of the Spanish government, reserving my 
 observations to some future period. My papers under- 
 went a very strict examination, but nothing appearing in 
 evidence against me, after a detention of three days, at 
 the particular and earnest request of Mr. Lacour, and 
 some other American gentlemen, I was released ; at the 
 same time I was given to understand that my longer resi- 
 dence in the country would be attended with some diffi- 
 culty, and was advised to take my departure as soon as 
 possible. 
 
 Before this affair took place, I had made arrangements 
 for going to St. Antonio, the capital of the province of 
 Apachiera, and had already contracted for a number of 
 mules, which I intended taking by that route through 
 the Tucapan tribe, on to Nachitoches. I made all prepa- 
 tions in my power for a speedy departure, as my actioiis 
 were much confined, owing to the strict watch which was 
 kept over me by the spies of the goA^emment. 
 
270 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 On the 16th of February I started with my guide, a 
 Spaniard, who had been recompiended to me, and two 
 native Mexicans, who were residents of St. Antonio. 
 Our first day's journey was pleasant and agreeable, the 
 road being very good, and the sky serene and clear. 
 In the evening, about dark, we encamped in a fertile 
 plain. 
 
 The next morning we again set forward, and imme- 
 diately entered the thick wood through which ^ve had to 
 pass to get to St. Antonio ; the distance was about three 
 days' journey, and we were under the necessity of taking 
 this road in order to avoid the numerous hordes of petty 
 officersy who infest the main road, and detain travellers on 
 many frivolous pretences ; our journey was therefore uur 
 interesting, dull, and in many places tedious. For twen- 
 ty-four hours previous to our arrival, wc; were drenched 
 with continual rain, which swelled the rivers and brooks, 
 and rendered them almost impassable. On the third day, 
 about dark, we arrived at St. Antonio. 
 
 The town of St. Antonio is the capital of the province 
 of Apachiera ; it is small, and not very regularly built ; 
 many of the houses are of stone ; the streets are nar- 
 row, and, not being paved, are very muddy. The public 
 buildings are large and spacious ; they are built of fi-ee- 
 stone, and form the east side of a large square. In the 
 centre of the square is placed a statue of copper gilt, as 
 large as life. The market of this town is well supplied, 
 and beef may be bought here at two cents a pound ; fish 
 are very high, but poultry is in great plenty, and very 
 cheap ; eggs, butter, &c. are likewise in great plenty^ 
 and reasonable. 
 
 I was informed it would be impossible for me to trans- 
 
KER^ TRAVELS. 271 
 
 port my mules out of the country, without being subject- 
 ed to very heavy exactions from the towns through which 
 I should pass ; this was not done from any legal authori- 
 ty, but the police was so badly regulated in many of the 
 frontier towns, that it would be winked at by the officers 
 of government : I therefore deemed it most advisable to 
 go over the mountains by a circuitous route^ and for that 
 purpose set about procuring a guide who would conduct 
 me with safety on my journey. 
 
 It was some time before I could procure a person who 
 was going over the mountain ; at last one was presented, 
 who brought a letter from a Spanish gentleman of my 
 acquaintance, recommending him very highly. His ap- 
 pearance did not prepossess me very greatly in his fa- 
 vour ; his height was about six feet ; his countenance 
 was dark, and shaded by an enormous pair of whiskers ; 
 a large pair of dark eyes, which glared with uncommon 
 fierceness, completed one of the most savage counte- 
 nances I ever saw. His terms were very moderate, and 
 I employed him. He would be ready in two days, and 
 the morning of the third we agreed to start. 
 
 The next morning, Edom, who had hitherto been the 
 constant companion of my journey, was missing. I en- 
 quired of my landlord where he was, and he informed 
 me that he had not seen him since the night before. As 
 he had never before gone away without obtaining leave 
 of me, I felt alarmed lest he should have met with some 
 difficulty. In the course of the day I searched for him in 
 different parts of the town, but without effect. The 
 next day's search was equally unsuccessful. As it wa5i 
 evident, from the appearance of things in his room, that he 
 had not gone away with the intention of lea^'ing my ser- 
 
272 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 vice, I was determined to wait some time, in order, if 
 possible, to recover him. My guide was much cha- 
 grined at this determination, and endeavoured to persuade 
 me to go on, and leave word for my negro to join me 
 when I reached Nachitoches. I would not consent, and, 
 after some altercation, he agreed to remain till I could 
 go on. 
 
 Four or five days elapsed, and still no intelligence of 
 my man. I began to doubt whether I should ever see 
 him more, when, as I was sitting at my window, con- 
 sidering what was to be done, he entered tlie room. I 
 received him with joy, and after the first salutations, 
 begged him to tell me where he had been. He informed 
 me that he went into the street on the evening of his 
 departure, soon after I went to bed, intending to take a 
 short walk ; he had just turned the corner of a street, 
 when he heard the cry of murder repeated several times, 
 which seemed to proceed from a cellar at no great dis- 
 tance. He hastened to the spot, and when he came 
 there he found a woman, apparently in the agonies of 
 death, and a man standing near her ; as soon as the man 
 perceived him, he started, and in a few minutes was out 
 of sight. The guard, who had been attracted by the 
 noise, now coming up, and seeing no one near the spot 
 but him, and the woman being speechless, took him into 
 custody, and would not allow him to speak to any one 
 till the arrival of the alcaid, who iurived in town the 
 day before. They would not release him, till the woman 
 who had partly recovered was brought, and certified that 
 he was not the one who had stabbed her. He was then 
 set at liberty, and lost no time in coming to my lodg- 
 ings. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. ^73 
 
 I was glad to see him, and as I now had nothing to 
 detain me, sent word to my guide that I would start 
 the next morning. Accordingly, about 3 o'clock in the 
 morning he came to my lodgings, and we commenced 
 our journey. We had not proceeded more than five 
 leagues from the town, before a violent storm of rain 
 came on, which obliged us to take shelter in a miller's 
 house. It rained incessantly for three or four hours, and, 
 the roads becoming choked with water, we concluded to 
 remain here all night. The miller received us with 
 much hospitality, and cheerfully agreed to our remaining 
 with him till the next day. His family consisted of his 
 wife, three daughters, and a son about sixteen, who 
 assisted his father in the mill. 
 
 The next morning we again set forward, the roads 
 having become more dry. The sky was serene and clear, 
 and we entered the forest with the hopes of having a 
 pleasant and delightful journey. We encamped about 
 eight o'clock. 
 
 In the morning we again started, and proceeded with 
 as much speed as the road would allows it being in 
 many places covered with underwood, and a rich long 
 grass, which gets matted, and renders the travelling in 
 some places heavy and disagreeable. The climate is 
 here dry and healthy, and the soil very rich and fruitful ; 
 it is of a thick black loam, and covered with a rich lux- 
 uriant grass, w^hich is much esteemed by cattle. 
 
 We again started forward, and about ten o'clock en- 
 tered more deeply into the wood. I objected to the 
 manner of proceeding, and told my guide we had better 
 continue more at the edge of the wood : he told me that 
 the nearest route ^\^ould be to pursue the road he pointed 
 
274 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 out, as the other was more circuitous and not so often 
 travelled. I told him he might continue ; and we pro- 
 ceeded with difficulty through the long grass and under- 
 wood, which were here very thick. About dark I pro- 
 posed stopping, but he assured me that there was a large 
 spot which was open and clear, only a few miles ahead, 
 and that it would be best to go there. About 8 o'clock 
 we arrived in an open space, which seemed to have been 
 formed by the cutting down of the trees. Before I had 
 time to make any observations, a loud whistle caused 
 jne to turn round, and I saw advancing towards me, a 
 large party, armed with gmis and cutlasses. I seized my 
 gun, but they instantly ran towards me, and in an in- 
 stant I was on the ground. They now blindfolded me, 
 and I was led along between two of them, who held me 
 by the arms. They went forward a considerable dis- 
 tance, and then began to descend, which they continued 
 for a considerable time. The dampness of the air, I 
 felt very perceptibly, which induced me to think that I 
 was a considerable way under ground. 
 
 Whither I was going, or why taken in this manner, I 
 could not account, unless they were robbers, into whose 
 hands I had been betrayed by my perfidious guide. 
 
 After being conducted is this manner for near a quarter 
 of an hour, they stopped, and in a few minutes I heard 
 a voice, ^vhose commanding tone induced me to believe 
 him to be a man of authority, speak in the Spanish lan- 
 guage, and order me to be unbound. They imme- 
 diately loosened the bandage, and I found myself in a 
 small passage which was lighted by four torches. A 
 man of a commanding figure, stood contemplating me 
 T> ith fixed attention ; he was surrounded by about t^^^enty 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 275 
 
 persons, whose ferocious countenances declared them 
 capable of performing any diabolical deed which might 
 be suggested to them. 
 
 He surveyed me some time in silence, and then turn- 
 ing from me, spoke in a low tone of voice to one \vho 
 Btood near him, and departed. The one to whom he 
 spake now took a torch, and beckoned me to follow 
 him ; I did so, and after going along several windings of 
 the rock, all of which I perceived had doors in them, he 
 reached the extremity of one, and opening a door ^vhich 
 Avas made of iron, he pointed in silence that I might 
 enter. When I got in he shut the door, and I heard 
 him turn a key. My reflections were gloomy, and I 
 felt as though 1 was shut out from all the world. 
 
 In about an hour, an old woman whom I had not 
 before seen, made her appearance. She brought with 
 her a cold fowl, and some coffee, which she set down ; 
 she then went away without saying a word. In a few 
 minutes she returned, with a matrass and bedding, 
 which she put on a cot, and made me up a comfortable 
 bed. 
 
 I had hitherto preserved a profound silence, and I saw^ 
 nothing in the face of this old woman which was an in- 
 ducement for me to break it. She was below the middle 
 size ; her countenance sallow, and mlich blackened by 
 the sun. She had a very long nose, and one of her eyes 
 had been put out in some squabble. Her whole appear- 
 ance was the most ugly I had ever seen in womankind. As 
 soon as she had made my bed she departed, locking the 
 door after her, and preserving a profound silence during 
 the whole of her visit. In the morning she came again, 
 and brought me my breakfast, and again left me to mv 
 
^76 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 self. As they had not searched my pockets when they 
 brought me into the cavern, I had still pen, ink, and pa- 
 per, besides a considerable sum of money, which I se- 
 creted against a time of need, for I had an idea that I 
 should yet be enabled to escape from my present situa- 
 tion if they allowed me to remain alive, which, from the 
 manner they treated me, I had no doubt they would. 
 
 I continued in this manner for three days, when on the 
 third night I heard a considerable noise and bustle, which 
 seemed to be some violent contention among the band of 
 robbers, for I had now no doubt of their being such. 
 
 In about an hour my door was unlocked, and a man 
 •whom I had not before seen, entered, and advanced 
 towai'ds me. I kept my eye fixed upon him, expecting 
 he had come with an intention of attacking me. At last 
 he asked me in Spanish if I understood any thing of 
 medicine. ^ As I had a small chest of medicines with me, 
 I did not doubt they had concluded from this that I was 
 a physician, and I answered him in the affirmative. He 
 immediately left me, and did not return for near an hour. 
 When he came back he opened the door, and bade me 
 follo\v him. I immediately went out, and we proceeded 
 in the same direction I had come, until we came to a 
 turning which branched off to the right • we turned into 
 it, and after, proceeding for some time, he opened a door 
 which led me into a large hall ; he now motioned me to 
 sit down. All was silent as the grave, for not a word had 
 been spoken from the time we left my chamber. The 
 faint beams of a solitary lamp glared through the apart- 
 ment, and served to show the horrors of the place. The 
 black walls, which reflected a thousand shadows, and the 
 height of tlie room, which was lost in the darkness which 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 277 
 
 burrounded me, seemed to give a gloomy hoiTor to my 
 situation, and for the moment I felt the impression of 
 fear stealing over me. 
 
 In a short time the man who conducted me here camo 
 back, and desired me to follow him. His accent was 
 respectful, and his whole behaviour seemed to be much 
 altered from what it had been. I followed him in silence, 
 and a few minutes brought me to a small room, in which 
 was a bed with curtains, and the other furniture was rich 
 and elegant ; two lamps of silver with six wicks, hung 
 in the centre of the room, and a sideboard, which stood 
 on one side, contained a rich service of plate. I was led 
 to the bedside, and a man undrew the curtains and ad- 
 dressed me in the Spanish language. The moment he 
 spoke I knew him to be the captain of the band. He told 
 me that he was very ill, and in great pain ; th^t their phy- 
 sician had been killed the night before ; that seeing I 
 had a box of medicines, they believed me to be a phy- 
 sician ; if I was, and would cure him, he should not be 
 ungrateful for it. After a short pause he added, if, how- 
 ever, you should attempt to take my life, in hopes by that 
 means to effect your liberty, be assured that it will be 
 tall in vain, and that the most lingering deadi will await 
 you : I have those who will watch your proceedings, and 
 on the least appearance of my growing worse you will be 
 put in close confinement. 
 
 Although this information rendered it hazardous for 
 me to undertake any thing for him, yet there was no al- 
 ternative, for he assured me I should not be allowed to 
 leave my room unless I consented to use my best endea- 
 vours for his recovery, and that if I succeeded he ^\'ould 
 reward me handsomely and treat me as his friend. 
 
278 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 I accordingly felt his pulse, and found him in a high 
 fever, which, from appearances, I judged to be of an 
 inflammatory kind. I told him I conceived bleeding to 
 be absolutely necessary ; and took from his arm eight 
 ounces of blood, and gave him some medicine which 
 would be of service in relieving his pain. Some refresh- 
 ments were brought to me, and I continued with him 
 until he fell into a profound sleep. 
 
 In about three hours I was again sent for, and found 
 my patient much better than I had expected, he being 
 entirely free from pain. He expressed himself very 
 thankful to me for my assistance, and entered freely into 
 conversation ; in the course of which, he assured me that 
 I need be under no apprehension for my personal safety, 
 as long as I did not attempt to make my escape, but that 
 whenever I attempted that, he could no longer protect 
 me. 
 
 In a few days the captain was so far recovered as to be 
 able to leave his bed for a short time each day. During 
 this time I continued his constant companion, and he 
 seemed to take pleasure in my company ; at night I al- 
 ways retired to the room which I first occupied, and sel- 
 dom left it till after breakfast. 
 
 I one morning went into his room, and was much sur- 
 prised to hear him return the compliment of the morning 
 in good English. He laughingly told me he thought he 
 could speak his native tongue best. I then understood 
 he was a native of the United States, but of what partic- 
 ular part I could not learn, as he had travelled all over 
 it, and there was scarce a town in tlie union that he 
 could not describe. 
 , About noon he generally laid down, being still very 
 
KER'S TRAVELS- 27^ 
 
 weak, and I was frequently left alone in his room. 
 Perceiving this, he told me that there was a small room 
 to the right which contained a few books, but whether 
 any thing worthy of attention or not he did not know, as 
 he seldom read any, and the room had not been used 
 since Frederick, a young man who formerly lived with 
 them, died. I went in, and found about one hundred 
 volumes, ranged on shelves in a very neat and orderly 
 manner. Among them were many good English and 
 Spanish authors, which I judged from appearance had 
 been taken from travellers. With them I passed the 
 time as agreeably as could be expected in my situa^ 
 tion, and the uncertainty when I sliould again be at my 
 liberty. 
 
 In about three weeks the captain was perfectly recov- 
 ered, and one evening there was to be given a little enter- 
 tainment on account of his recovery. I remained with him 
 a great part of the day, and at night, when I was about to 
 retire, he told me that he should be glad of my company 
 to supper that evening. I could not with propriety re- 
 fuse, and about eight we entered the hall which served 
 them for their nightly banquets. They were already 
 assembled, and on his entrance they all arose and wel- 
 comed him with shouts of applause. He bowed, and 
 took his seat at the head of the table, and directed me to 
 a seat by the side of him. 
 
 I now had liberty to look around and observe the room 
 in which we were. It was a natural excavation of the 
 mountain, but had been considerably widened by the 
 art of man ; the roof was neajv^i^ggi feet high, from, 
 "which was suspended nineteen large lamps, each having 
 six wicks. The table \^as long, and covered wh a pro- 
 
280 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 fusion of every thing which could provoke or gratify the 
 appetite. 
 
 The company consisted of about thirty men, whose 
 aspects bespoke them familiar with guilt, and who were 
 only intent on the gratification of their sensual appetites. 
 The captain, whose sickness had rendered him mild in 
 the chamber, now assumed that fierce and determined 
 air which was peculiar to his profession, and for a mo- 
 ment I could not perceive that he was the same man. 
 
 After supper the wine began to circulate, and noise and 
 mirth soon reigned throughout the cavern. The captain 
 drank very sparingly of the wine, and at an early hour he 
 retired to his chamber, being still too weak to set up a 
 great while at a time. I accompanied him to the door, 
 and then retired to my room, meditating on the means 
 most likely to effect my escape from a place of such 
 wretchedness and infamy. 
 
 I repaired in the morning to the library, as I now call- 
 ed it, from the circumstance of its containing all the 
 books in the cavern, and was soon joined by the captain, 
 who, taking a chair nearly opposite me, commenced an 
 animated conversation on the duties of religion, and the 
 divine attributes of the Deity. At first 1 supposed that 
 he was jesting, and that I should soon hear some of the 
 stale observations of Thomas Paine, or others of the same 
 school ; but I was mistaken, and his language was so ner- 
 vous and elegant, and he expatiated with such clearness 
 and perspicuity, that I listened with fixed attention. 
 When he ceased speaking, I ventured to hint to him that 
 thesentiments.which'he'^h'kd just now expressed were not 
 congenial to his present mode of Ufe. " I acknowledge 
 it," saic^he, " but the lips of men oftentimes express 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 281 
 
 isentiments which they cannot but acknowledge the just- 
 ness of, though at the same time their actions are directly 
 opposite to them." 
 
 He now changed the conversation to the books which 
 were in the room, and in the course of it mentioned the 
 young man who had taken so much care of them, whom 
 he called Frederick. I ventured to ask him who he was, 
 and what was the cause of his death. At these questions 
 his countenance changed, and he sat for some minutes 
 silent : at last he replied, " I have no objections to an- 
 swering the questions you put to me as far as it is in my 
 power, provided you will solemnly promise never to relate 
 it to any one here." I without hesitation made the re- 
 quired promise, and he proceeded as follotvs : "It is im- 
 possible for me to tell you correctly who he was ;. but 
 thus much I know, he was an American, and I judged 
 born in one of the southern states ; his manners were 
 mild, and he acquired the good will of the most ferocious 
 of our band ; he was with us about twelve months, but, 
 as his constitution was delicate, he fell into a decline, 
 which carried him off in about three months after he took 
 to his bed ; he selected all the books ^vhich you now see, 
 and arranged them in this room, and this was his chief 
 amusement. I used my best endeavours with the band 
 to have him liberated, but without effect, as there are 
 many among us who have less feeling than the brute cre- 
 ation, and they were fearful that he would betray them, 
 although he assured them in the most solemn manner that 
 he would never divulge their place of concealment." 
 
 Here the ferocity of his countenance was changed, and 
 a tear trickled down his cheek ; he wiped it hastily away,, 
 and then said, " Sir, it may seem surprising to you that 
 
 36 
 
282 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 I should be so much aiFected at the death of a fdlow 
 creature, who have been instrumental iri the death of 
 hundreds ; but there are moments when the principles 
 which were inculcated by my ever respected parents will 
 prevail, and triumph over the vicious principles I have 
 imbibed* To show you that I do not overrate the talents 
 of this young man, I will show you a paper which he 
 wrote a short time before his death, and which seems to 
 be a final farewell to all his relations." He now rose, 
 opened the drawer of a writing desk, handed me a paper^ 
 and left th^ room. 
 
 CHAP. XXVHL 
 
 Contents of the paper given me by the captain — Fare- 
 iv ell verses — The hand prepares for an expedition — 
 Resolution of keeping me confined during their absence 
 — Ineffectual attempt to discover their route — Return 
 of the gang — Qudrrel between the captain and one of 
 the men — resolution of the captain to give me my lib- 
 erty — Interesting conversation x$ith him. . 
 
 Upon an examination of the paper which was handed 
 me by the captain, I found that it contained no regular 
 narrative, but Avhat was evidently written when the mhid 
 was in a state of disquietude, and without the expectation 
 of its ever being seen or read : it was as follows : 
 
 ^' In this hour, when the leaden hand of Morpheus has 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 283 
 
 stretched on their extended couch the innocent and the 
 guilty, when all nature rests, and every thing is silent as 
 the grave, I, who am fast going to the tomb, who have 
 no friend near, no kind mother to smooth the bed of 
 death, and render the path more cheering, am alone 
 awake, and alive to the miseries of my situation. Fancy 
 already paints my tender and aifectionate mother bowed 
 by the weight of sorrow almost to the grave ; and my 
 sprightly sisters, whose affectionate endearments often 
 cheered me in the hour of despondency, now sitting in 
 mournful sadness, and expressing unavailing wishes for 
 the return of their beloved brother ; but I am gone, gone 
 for ever. My mother, never shall I again be encircled in 
 your arms, never will you again behold your lost son. 
 Shut from all society that can with propriety be consid- 
 ered human, oppressed with a disease which is as certain 
 as the sting of death, I have no hope this side the grave. 
 Could I but soften the hearts of those who hold me io 
 captivity, I might yet behold the beams of the rising 
 sun, yet be clasped in the arms of my affectionate parent, 
 and breathe out the remainder of my life on her maternal 
 bosom. But no ; liapiness is not to be mine in this 
 world. The pleasure of once more beholding those who 
 are dear to me, is denied, and I must hnger out the re- 
 mainder of my days in a dungeon, surrounded with 
 wretches whose hearts are steeled against the feelings of 
 humanity. — 
 
 '' But why do I complain? lias it not pleased Him in 
 " whose hands are the issues of life and death," duis to 
 afflict me, that I may come out of the furnace " like gold 
 seven times purified ?" And have I not the consolation 
 to know, that I shall inherit the mansions of eternal rest. 
 
^i^4 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 where joy for ever reigns, — where infinite mercy, and in- 
 finite love, are united as firm as the immutability of God, 
 and lasting as eternity. To Him, then, I go, who has 
 declared himself to be '^ the resurrection and the life, and 
 that whosoever believeth in him shall not perish, but have 
 everlasting life." 
 
 "Farewell, then, my much loved friends; although 
 I shall probably never see you again in this world, yet 
 when you come to die, may you fall asleep in Jesus, and 
 awake on the morning of the resurrection to a glorious 
 immortality ; may you go through the dark valley of the 
 shadow of death rejoicing, and when we meet again it 
 will be in that place where sickness and sorrow will be 
 done away, and where pure pleasures will exist for count- 
 less ages." 
 
 I was much affected at the reading of this piece, and 
 for a moment forgot my own misery to contemplate that 
 of an unfortunate being, whose bright prospects in life had 
 been thus cruelly blasted. Enclosed in the paper there were 
 some verses, which were more regular in their composi- 
 tion, and so applicable, both to the young man's situi^tion 
 and my own, that I here insert them. 
 
 " Adieu, sweet scenes of former hours^ 
 Adieu, ye shades, adieu, ye bowers, 
 
 A lasting, long adieu ; 
 Where erst in infancy I strayed. 
 Or in the grove, or in the mead. 
 
 With pleasures ever new. 
 
 " Anna, adieu ; alas ? no more 
 
 , Shalt fate, or fortune, e'er restore 
 
 The blissful time anew. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 285 
 
 When, by the twilight's fading gleani) 
 Adown the gently gliding stream 
 I rov'd, with heaven and you. 
 
 ** No more, where modern Xanthus laves. 
 Through Hartford's plains, its sacred waves. 
 
 Nor where the riv'Iet purls ; 
 Nor in the sad, sequester'd gloom. 
 Where, twin'd around my mother's tomb, 
 
 The pliant ivy curls : 
 
 ** No more the sylvan seene^ to view. 
 No more to join the jqcund crew. 
 
 Shall I again return ; 
 But, doom'd from native home to dwell. 
 Or else within a cavern's cell, 
 
 I'm left alone to mourn. 
 
 ** Thus, when the lightning's vivid flash* 
 Kends to its base the stately ash^ 
 
 Or the majestic oaki 
 In living death the arbour stands. 
 The plumage from the boughs descends 
 
 Beneath the dreadful stroke. 
 
 ** Sweet girl, when, in thy circling arms. 
 Protected by thy magic charms. 
 
 Shall I resign my fears ? 
 When shall this bosom lose its wo — r 
 When will these eyes forget to flo«r 
 
 For days of other years ? 
 
 <• But love, alas 1 nor sighs, nor tears, 
 Nor all the scenes of former years. 
 
 One ray of hope diffuse ; 
 Put rash despair my bosom fills. 
 And, lost in frenzy's magic spells, 
 
 \ wildly court the muse." 
 
286 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 The reading of these lines pkmged me into a profound 
 melancholy, and I could not but fancy a strong simi- 
 larity between my situation and that of the author ; 
 still, I was blessed with health, and my constitution 
 being naturally strong, I did not absolutely despair of 
 finding my way out of the cave again ; but by what 
 means, or how long before they could be put in execu- 
 tion, it was impossible for me to tell. As I was blind- 
 folded when I entered the cave, and had not since been 
 able to form any judgment of the manner in which they 
 eame in, I judged it impossible for me, without some as- 
 sistance, to be able to make my escape- 
 
 The captain and myself were now constant compan- 
 ions. He had recovered so far as to be able to go out 
 with his troop, and I understood they were preparing for 
 xin expedition which would detain the greater part of them 
 ©ut for a number of days. I judged this would be the 
 time for me to make my escape ;- but one evening after 
 supper, (for I had now supped with them for some time,) 
 they desired me to retire, as they had something confiden- 
 tial to propose to the band : I felt a presentiment that it 
 was something which would operate against me, but rose 
 nnd retired. 
 
 In about an hour the captain came to my apartment : 
 I saw vexation visibly portrayed in his countenance, and 
 judged he had unpleasant news to communicate to me. 
 After a silence of some time he informed me, that, as the 
 band was to leave the cave the next morning, they had 
 come to the resolution of confining me to my room for 
 some time : he added, " You may rest assured that I 
 opposed this resolution as much as I dared to do, and 
 l^ad it not been for that rascal, Jim, I should have been 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 287 
 
 enabled to have got you the liberty of the hall ; but I 
 will teach him better things than to oppose me, before he 
 is much older." He walked the room several times with 
 a quick pace, and then turning to me, added, " but don't 
 be down hearted ; we shall not be gone long, and if you 
 want any of the books which are in the other room, you 
 shall have them." I thanked him for his attention, and 
 requested a few books which I named. After a little 
 more conversation he left me. 
 
 In a few minutes the old woman entered with a basket 
 of books, and, as she possessed all that curiosity which is 
 common to the female sex, and had lately become very- 
 loquacious, I was in hopes of getting a little information 
 from her. After I had praised her manner of cooking a 
 fowl, and prepared her with many well turned complin 
 ments, I asked her if she knew what route the band in- 
 tended steering. " The Lord of heaven knows," she 
 replied, " for I am sure it is impossible for any one else 
 to know, they keep it such a secret ; although for the 
 matter of that, I have always told them they might as 
 well trust me, for I should as soon think of going with- 
 out eating as to mention it to a living soul." But sure- 
 ly, said I, a person who is so useful as you are, ought at 
 least to know where they are going. " So I have told 
 them a thousand times," said the old woman, ^' and when 
 William came into the kitchen just now to get his water 
 boots, says I to him, You suppose one can't tell 
 where you are a going, but I will lay my life that it is 
 another tramp to the river." How far do you call it to 
 the river, my good madam, said I, in a careless tone, al- 
 though I was much interested in the answer, *' Why; 
 bless me, not more than two " Here the appear- 
 
288 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 ance of the captain, who frowned most terribly upon the 
 poor woman, and bid her in a stern voice to quit the 
 room, put an end to our conversation at a moment when 
 I expected to reap some benefit from it. 
 
 After walking the room for some time, the captain 
 stopped, and in a voice at once stern and commanding, 
 censured my conduct for talking to the woman. " You 
 know very well," said he, " that I am to a certain degree 
 responsible for the many liberties with which you have 
 been indulged since you came here : as long as you re- 
 main quiet, and make no attempts to leave this place, you 
 shall be treated with as much kindness as possible ; but 
 the moment you attempt to gain any information respect- 
 ing the situation of the place in which you are confined, 
 a severe punishment awaits you." Having said this, he 
 shut the door and departed, leaving me more disappoint- 
 ed at not gaining the information I sought^ than alarmed 
 at his threats. 
 
 The next day the old lady again appeared, but I 
 judged it not prudent to speak to her. My books were 
 my only employment, and 1 was sometimes busied in 
 conjectures on that part of the old woman's discourse 
 which she had left unfinished. I could not make it out, 
 although I believed myself to be nearer the territories of 
 the United States than I had before thought. 
 
 The time now passed heavily away ; but on the fifth 
 day, at about four o'clock in the afternoon, I heard noises 
 which induced me to think that the party had returned 
 from their expedition. In a few minutes the door of my 
 foom was opened by a person who brought a request 
 from the captain that I would immediately come to him. 
 When I came to his room he received me with cordial- 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 289 
 
 ity, and told me that he wanted me to do something for 
 his lieutenant, who had been badly wounded. I went to 
 the chamber of the lieutenant, and found that he had re- 
 ceived a severe sabre cut in the thick part of his thigh, 
 and that he was very weak from the loss of blood, I had 
 still some of the leaves which had been given me by the 
 Mnacedeus tribe of Indians, who described them as being 
 very excellent in curing fresh cut wounds : I sent for my 
 chest, and applied some of them to the cut, at the same 
 time directing him to keep quiet, and not to drink any ar- 
 dent spirits. 
 
 I returned to the room, and found the party preparing 
 for a grand festival, which was to celebrate their return 
 to their habitation ; the great hall was lighted, and all 
 was bustlCj in the kitchen. About ten o'clock the sup- 
 per was ready, and I again took my seat by the side of the 
 captain, who appeared in an unusually good humour. 
 They soon began to offer copious libations to Bacchus, 
 and noisy mirth reigned throughout the hall. I soon saw 
 that perfect cordiality did not reign among the whole 
 party. Secret whisperings, and i?ow and then an oath 
 of defiance, seemed to show that they were determined 
 to oppose whoever attempted any thing contrary to their 
 wishes. The captain's countenance now assumed that 
 gloomy ferocity which was the forerunner of a storm, and 
 he sat in sullen silence. At last, Jim, who had been the 
 foremost in opposing my having the liberty of the hall, 
 asked the captain if he intended to divide it equally with 
 them. His countenance now assumed the liveliest red : 
 " Do you think that I am to be dictated to ?" said he- 
 " No, captain," replied Jim, " nor are we fools enough 
 to toil and bleed for anotlier to carry off the spoil wh^ 
 
 37 
 
290 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 does not deserve it." " You scoundrel," exclaimed the 
 captain, " do you grumble at my authority ; I will blow 
 you into eternity in a moment :" with this he drew out 
 a brace of pistols and fired at Jim, who fell, and the cap- 
 tain prepared to finish his work with his sabre. The rest 
 of the company now gathered round, and endeavoured to 
 appease the captain's rage ; they were as humble now in 
 their intreaties for the life of the culprit, as they had be- 
 fore been menacing in their deportment. At their ear- 
 nest request the captain agreed to spare his life, but put 
 him into close confinement until he should recover, when 
 he was to be tried by the laws of the gang. 
 
 The captain retired to his room, and I judged it best 
 for me to go to mine, as he was unfit for conversation. 
 In the morning he sent for me, and when I came in I 
 found him counting some money. He motioned for me 
 to sit down, and when he had put his gold in a paper he 
 requested me to inform him how far I intended travelling 
 when I was taken. I informed him, and he dien told me 
 that he had resolved to give me my liberty. " My rea- 
 sons for so doing," said he, "^are a profound secret to 
 the whole gang ; but I feel for your situation ; you are 
 deserving of a better fate than awaits you here. I feel a 
 presentiment that my stay here is not long, and if I 
 bhould be killed I know of no one that would afford you 
 protection." 
 
 My feelings were such that 1 remained silent and mo- 
 tionless. The captain, perceiving my surprise, said to 
 me, " I don't doubt you are much surprised at my de- 
 termination. You considered yourself, and with good 
 reason, among a band of robbery who show mercy to no 
 one. You were not mistaken. There are some amonc: 
 
 ?h<^ 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 291 
 
 us of this gang who are a disgrace to civilized man, 
 and who think themselves at the summit of human happi- 
 ness if they have m\ opportunity to hurl distress and mis- 
 ery among their fellow creatures. Although I am captain 
 of this gang, and may l^e considered as countenancing 
 every act of cruelty which is committed, and as having 
 no feelings but those of rapine and plunder, yet a spark 
 will sometimes fly off from those principles which were 
 inculcated with care by fond and indulgent parents. My 
 prospects in life were as bright, in the morning of my 
 days, as those of any young man. I laid my head on 
 my pillow at night but to devise new pleasures, and 
 waked in the morning but to enjoy them ; but dissipa- 
 tion soon became an attendant on my steps, and from 
 first plunging into debt, and then into dishonour, my 
 name became as much hated and despised as it had be- 
 fore been honoured and respected." His countenance 
 discovered the most violent agitation, and his whole 
 frame shook with convulsion while he spoke : when he 
 had ended, he t;urned from me. 
 
 I now assured him of my gratitude for his intended 
 favours, and told him that any thing which it was in my 
 power to do for him, he might rest assured should be 
 done by me with pleasure. " From the late conversation 
 I have had with you," said I, " and from the confidence 
 with which you have favoured mc, I have reasons for be- 
 lieving that there are moments when you feel a degree of 
 horror at your present pursuits and practices. If you 
 wish or expect to enjoy any happiness here or hereafter, 
 'you must abandon the society you at present associate 
 with. If, on my arrivat in the United States, I can be 
 ^strumental in affording you any assistance, hQ assured 
 
292 KER»S TRAVELS. 
 
 that I shall do it with pleasure. As it is, I am truly 
 grateful to you for the favour you intend me, and have 
 no doubt you will readily agree with me that there is 
 more pleasure in giving than in receiving the means of 
 happiness ; and that, in contemplating its benign influ- 
 ence, you perceive both the propriety and the excellency 
 of that divine aphorism, " It is more .blessed to give than 
 to receive." 
 
 He^ remained for some time silent, and at last ob- 
 served, -' Your observation is correct : I cannot expect 
 any happiness here, nor do I receive any only when I am 
 sunk in intoxication, and my passions have gained an 
 ascendancy over my reason ,- then, for a moment, I feel 
 insensible to every thing but the gratification of my ap- 
 petites, and sink to rest in delusive happiness ; but in the 
 morning the phantom has fled, I am still the wretch I was 
 the morning before, and happiness seems to be farther 
 removed than even As it respects assistance, you can 
 be of no service to me : I am fixed, and must here drag 
 out a miserable existence until death ^terminates the 
 scene. I shall call for you to night at twelve o'clock, 
 but you must solemnly swear that you will not speak, nor 
 stir from the place where I shall lead you, until you hear 
 the report of a pistol, and that you will then take the road 
 which leads you straight forward." 
 
 I readily consented: he then observed, " You had 
 some property which it will be impossible for me to re- 
 store to you, as we are much in want of good horses ; but 
 you will receive this gold," said he, handing me a parcel, 
 " as a compensation, and this," he added, presenting me 
 with another, " as a mark of my esteem." A bell now 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 293 
 
 summoned him to the hall : he bid me remember twelve 
 that night, and left me. 
 
 CHAP. XXIX. 
 
 Preparations for leaving the cavern — Melanchs)ly fate 
 of Edom — Departure — Precautions observed by the 
 captain — Reflections on my former situation and pres- 
 ent prospects — Get information of my journey — Arri- 
 val at Natchitoches. 
 
 I RETIRED to my room, and began to make prepara- 
 tions for my departure. The late conversations I had had 
 with the the captain, convinced me that he was not entire- 
 ly steeled against the calls of conscience, though his 
 pride was yet too great to permit him to leave the com- 
 pany he was associated with. 
 
 I had hitherto heard nothing of my faithful negro, who 
 had been separated from me on being taken into the; 
 cavern, and all my attempts to get any information of 
 him had hitherto proved fruitless. When my dinner 
 was served, I sent a note to the^ captain, requesting the 
 liberty of seeing him. My request being granted, in 
 about half an hour I repaired to his chamber. 
 
 After a little common conversation, I told the captain 
 that the reason of my visit was to inquire about my negro. 
 I observed to him that he had been of great service to 
 me in all my travels, and almost my constant comp^ion 
 through dreary forests that had never before been trodden 
 
294 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 by civilized man ; that in my dangers and perils he had 
 shown an attachment to me superior to tliat generally 
 evinced by a servant to his master. " I am sorry," said 
 the captain, " that it is not in my power to give you 
 any pleasant information of him ; but, the second night 
 after his arrival here, he had a quarrel with one of the 
 band, who stabbed him with a sabre, and he fell dead at 
 his feet. I should have mentioned this circumstance to 
 you sooner, but I did not wish to give you any uneasi- 
 ness." 
 
 I remained silent, for my feelings were such that I 
 could not give them utterance. The captain saw I was 
 affected, and said, " It is with regret, I perceive, that 
 you receive intelligence of the death of your negro, but 
 it was impossible for me to avoid it, and I hope it will 
 not cloud your present expected happiness ; all depends 
 on your being secret and active in your exertions after 
 you leave the cave, and I think it advisable that you 
 should leave me until such time as I send for you, as our 
 being together may excite suspicion after you are gone." 
 I bowed in silence and immediately left the room. 
 
 About twelve o'clock my door turned slowly upon its 
 hinges, and the captain entered ; he bowed and seated 
 himself. We both remained silent for some moments ; 
 at last he said, " Are you ready ?" I told him I was. 
 " Let us be gone then," said he, " for we have no time 
 to lose." I arose, and in a few minutes we left the cham- 
 ber, and proceeded in silence through a number of 
 winding passages. At last we came to one much wider, 
 and which appeared to be the grand entrance ; here he 
 stopped and told me Jie must blindfold me. " You need 
 be under no apprehensions," said he ; " it is impossible 
 
 ^4 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 295 
 
 for us to be discovered, as we are at some distance from 
 the rooms which are inhabited by the men.'* I sub- 
 mitted in silence, and in a few minutes he took me by 
 the hand, and conducted me along the passage. The 
 air now became more damp, and I judged from the feel- 
 ing that we were on a level with the sea, or some neigh- 
 bouring river. 
 
 After walking half an hour, as near as I could judge, 
 we began to rise a steep ascent, which was winding,' 
 and in many places uneven. I now began to feel the 
 fresh air of night, and heard the wind whistling in the 
 trees. I felt revived, and insensibly increased my pace. 
 In a few minutes the captain whispered, you are no\v free 
 from the cavern, but speak not a word lest you should- 
 be betrayed. 
 
 Words cannot describe my joy at once more being 
 free from my dismal abode. I involuntarily clasped his 
 hand, and we proceeded in silence for some considerable 
 distance, oftentimes going through a winding path which 
 rendered it impossible for me to judge exactly the route 
 ^ve were pursuing. In about an hour he stopped, and 
 told me that I was now in a road which would lead me' 
 on my journey, but that I must beware not to stir until I 
 heard the report of a pistol ; he advised me, as I valued 
 my existence, to pursue the road which I should find 
 before me. He informed me that about a mile on the 
 road I should find a horse ready saddled, which I mus^ 
 take, and pursue my journey with all speed. 
 
 Here he made a full stop, and seemed violently agi 
 tated. At last, grasping my hand with both of his, he 
 exclaimed, with a visible tremor in his voice, " Fai'e- 
 ^vell ; may you be happy. You go to meet friends, wl^rv 
 
296 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 anxiously expect your arrival, and will receive you with 
 rejoicing, whilst 1 am an outcast and a villain, and my 
 name is only remembered to be execrated for my base- 
 ness." He again shook me by the hand, and, after cau- 
 tioning me not to remove the bandage from my eyes un- 
 til I should hear the report of the pistol, he left me. 
 
 I listened with some attention to hear in what direc- 
 tion his footsteps sounded, but after he had taken three 
 or four steps, it was impossible for me to hear the least 
 sound, except the rustling of the leaves on the trees. I 
 waited with anxious impatience for the report of the pis- 
 tol, and was many times on the point of tearing the ban- 
 dage from my eyes. About an hour had elapsed, when 
 I heard the distant report of a pistol, which could be just 
 distinguished. 
 
 I instantly tore the bandage from my eyes, and beheld 
 myself at the entrance of a road which led along a rich 
 and fertile valley. I pursued the path with eagerness, 
 and, after walking about a mile, saw a horse tied to a tree, 
 which I instantly loosed and mounted. 
 
 The day was just dawning, and my course lay through 
 a level and fertile plain, where every thing had the most 
 beautiful and lively appearance. Flowers, full and per- 
 fect, as though they had been cultivated by the hand of 
 the florist, with all their captivating odours, and with all 
 the variegated charms that colour and nature can produce^ 
 here, in the lap of elegance and beauty, decorated the 
 smiling groves. Soft zephyrs gently breathed a thousand 
 sweets, and the inhaled air gave a voluptuous glow of 
 health and vigour that intoxicated my senses. The 
 songsters of the forest had just begun their sweet song 
 of morning praise, and appeared to feel the influence of 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 297 
 
 this genial clime, and in more soft and modulated tones, 
 warble their tender notes in unison with love and nature. 
 Every thing here gave delight ; and in the bright efFul-- 
 gence of the " god of day," which had just risen above 
 the eastern horizon, and shed his beams around, I felt a 
 glow of gratitude for that elevation which our all bountiful 
 Creator had bestowed upon us. I felt gratitude for my libe- 
 ration from the horrors of captivity, and from the society of 
 wretches who were a disgrace to the human species ; and 
 it brought to my mind so forcibly the lines of a favourite 
 poet, that I could not help exclaiming, 
 
 ** 'Tis liberty alone that gives the flower 
 Of fleeting life its lustre and perfume. 
 And we arie weeds Avithout it." 
 
 At dark I encamped, after having come nearly thirty- 
 five miles. 
 
 I now examined the gold which the captain had given 
 me the preceding day, and found a liberal price for my 
 mules, and as much more as a present from the captain. 
 I had been about six weeks among them, and had it not 
 been for the friendship of the captain, I should probably 
 have been confined for my lifetime. I had, however, lost 
 very little, except the company of my faithful negroj who 
 had been the constant companion of my travels, and I 
 now missed his society very much. 
 
 I arose very early in the morning, and proceeded on 
 my journey. I was anxious to reach some place where 
 I could gain information of the nearest route to the 
 United States, for I did not know ^vhether I was goinp- 
 towards that country or not. About noon I came to a place 
 where the road appeared to be much travelled, and I 
 
298 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 pushed forward, in hopes of meeting some person whd 
 could give me the information I wanted. Night coming 
 on obhged me to encamp, after having come thirty-eight 
 miles. 
 
 I started forward in the morning, and at about eight 
 o'clock overtook three men who were travelling on to- 
 wards the Tuscarora tribe of Indians, to trade for furs. 
 I enquired what distance I was from the United States, 
 and they told me it was ninety miles to Natchitoches. 
 This was the most agreeable intelligence I could receive ; 
 I thanked them, and rode forward with a much quicker 
 pace. At night I encamped, after having come forty- 
 miles. 
 
 My next day's journey was through a fertile country ; 
 the soil is formed on a bed of limestone, which ex- 
 tends from west to easty and is covered by a rich black 
 soil, which is generally about the depth of two feet, and 
 in some places it is five or six. The weather was re- 
 markably serene, and I travelled this day about thirty- 
 five miles. 
 
 I started early the next morning, and about eight 
 o'clock met two hunters, who were going out to get 
 skins : they told me they left Natchitoches the preceding' 
 day, and should not return under three months. I rode 
 on, and about three o'clock arrived in town, at my 
 friend, Mr. Potter's, who received me with a hearty 
 welcome. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 29^ 
 
 CHAP. XXX. 
 
 Departure from Natchitoches for the . Tuckapau town — 
 General description of the town — Cultivation of the 
 sugar cane much attended to — Apalusa town — De- 
 'scription of it — Departure for Gibsonport — Descrip- 
 tion of that town — Chickasaw nation — Nashville — 
 Celebration of the fourth of July — Patriotism of the 
 inhabitants — Elegant toasts — Ge?ieral description of 
 Nashville — Leave Nashville — Some account of the 
 enchanted mountain, 
 
 JVIay 10th, 1814. My arrival in Natchitoches had been 
 unexpected by me, as I had intended coming through 
 the Tuckapau and Apalusa towns, and my arrangements 
 for that purpose were such as to induce me to repair to 
 these places. After remaining a short time with my 
 friends, and recruiting my spirits, I set forward on my 
 journey. 
 
 As the route was entirely through a country which has 
 very little to recommend it to the attention of the travels 
 ler, or through such parts of the country as I have alrea- 
 dy described, I shall avoid a tedious and uninteresting 
 description of my journey, and shall conduct my readers 
 immediately to the Tuckapau town. 
 
 The Tuckapau town was originally settled by French- 
 men, but is now within the limits of the United States : 
 it is situated on the Tallapoose river, which is the north- 
 east branch of the Alabama, or Mobile river. This 
 river rises in the high lands near the Cherokces, and runt 
 
300 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 through the high country of the Oakfuskee tribe, in a 
 westerly direction, and is full of rocks, falls, and shoals, 
 until it reaches the Tuckafaches, when it becomes deep 
 and quiet : from thence its course is west about forty 
 miles to the town of the Tuckapaus. This river is three 
 hundred yards broad, and fifteen or twenty feet deep in 
 the time of freshets. 
 
 The cultivation of the sugar cane has been considera- 
 bly attended to in this town. It was first planted by 
 Madame Somor, a lady who has displayed considerable 
 enterprise in its cultivation. Her success has induced a 
 mimber of other persons to try the experiment, and sugar 
 is now raised in considerable quantities, and will, at some 
 future period, become an article of much consequence to 
 its inhabitants. The success which has attended the cul- 
 tivation of the sugarcane iathis place, has induced ma- 
 ny of the inhabitants of Georgia to try the experiment, 
 and the result has been, tliat very favourable crops have 
 been raised, and it is thought the cultivation of it would 
 be attended with much success in Georgia and Souths 
 Carolina, and enable our country, at no very distant peri- 
 od, to become independent of the West-India islands for 
 supplies of that article. 
 
 Around the town are large prairies, interspersed with 
 tufts of trees, which have a very handsome and picturesqtle 
 appearance. The country is very unhealthy in the rainy 
 season, ^vhich is owing to the low situation of the town 
 and the dampness of the air. The river is only naviga- 
 ble in the time of freshets, the other seasons of the year 
 the water being so low as to render it impossible even for 
 batteaux to come up to the town. In going down they 
 #rst descend the Plucemin for about six miles, when it 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 501 
 
 opens into a large lake on the right : the other branch 
 runs about nine hundred miles, and empties into the 
 sea. 
 
 Tliis lake is large and extensive, and empties itself in- 
 to the Bistash. There are large numbers of alligators in 
 this lake, which are said to be very fat. During the last 
 war, a number of men employed themselves in catching 
 these alligators, from one of which they would extract 
 four or five gallons of oil, that answei'ed all the purposes 
 of the best fish oil. From the large number of alligators 
 which are said to infest this lake, there is no doubt but 
 that four or five thousand gallons of this oil might be 
 procured in a year- 
 
 After my business was settled at the Tuckapau, I 
 started from thence to the Apalusa town, ^vhich is thirty- 
 two miles distant. The houses in the latter place are 
 many of them neady built, "and there is a handsome 
 church, built by the missionaries. There are in this town 
 about five hundred inhabitants, who manufacture the most 
 of their own wearing apparel. It is a thriving little place, 
 and the inhabitants have the appeai'ance of being very 
 healthy. 
 
 I here met with three men who were going through the 
 wilderness to the state of Tennessee, and I agreed to join 
 them. We were ready to start in a few days, and travel- 
 led with considerable expedition. My companions had 
 been purchasing furs, and trading about the Apalusas, for 
 about six months, and one of them told me he calculated 
 they had made two thousafid dollars, clear of the articles 
 they took out, and all their expenses. , They had some 
 valuable furs, which cost them but a trifle, and which 
 sold very high in Nashville, iUthough it ^^'as my op'm^ 
 
302 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 ion that they would have done much better to have de- 
 scended the river to Natches. 
 
 We arrived, without any accident, at Gibsonport, in 
 the Missisippi territory, where we staid a few days to 
 rest ourselves, and recruit our horses ; during which time 
 I collected the following particulars. 
 
 The town of Gibsonport is situated on a small creek, 
 which is about thirty-five miles frorn the river : it has 
 been settled but a short time, and is a very thriving little 
 place, containing about fifty houses and four hundred in- 
 habitants. The inhabitants manufacture the most of 
 their own clothing. The land is rich, producing from 
 si^ty to seventy bushels of Indian corn to the acre, and 
 generally thirty-five or forty bushels of wheat. The town 
 is very healdiy, and there is not a resident physician be- 
 longing to the town. 
 
 In four days we again started, and proceeded through 
 a beautiful and rich tract of country to Nashville. We 
 saw nothing worthy of notice until we arrived at the prin- 
 cipal town of the Chickasaw Indians, a famous nation of 
 "warriors, who inhabit the country on the east side of the 
 Missisippi, on the head branches of the Tombigbee, 
 Mobile, and Yazoo rivers, and north of the country of 
 the Choctaws. Their country is an extensive plain, tol- 
 erably well watered from springs, and of a pretty good 
 soil. The number of souls in this nation may be about 
 two thousand, of which five hundred are fighting men. 
 The town is situated on the side of a hill, and the inhab- 
 itants are industrious, and a few of them attend to agri- 
 culture. 
 
 The land on this road is rich, producing cane, rye- 
 grass, and the native clover. The cane is a reed th?J. 
 
 ■^i 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 303 
 
 grows frequently to the height of fifteen or sixteen feet, 
 but more generally about ten or twelve, and is in thick- 
 ness from the size of a goose quill to that of two inches 
 diameter ; sometimes, though seldom, it is larger. When it 
 is slender it never grows higher than from four to seven 
 feet. It shoots up in one summer, but produces no 
 leaves until the following year. It is an evergreen, and is 
 perhaps the most nourishing food for cattle upon earth. 
 No other milk or butter has such flavour and richness as 
 that which is produced from cows which feed upon cane. 
 Horses which feed upon it work nearly as well as if they 
 were fed upon corn, provided care is taken to give them, 
 once in thre^ or four days, a handful of salt ; other- 
 wise this food is apt to injure them. The rye- 
 grass, when it arrives at maturity, is from two feet 
 and a half to three and a half high ; the head and beard 
 resemble the real rye, and sometimes produce a small 
 grain, long and slender, not unlike rye. The clover is 
 in no respect different from that which is cultivated in 
 other parts of America, but it is more coarse and luxuri,-^ 
 ant. There is a variety of other kinds of grass 
 found in different parts of the forest, but they do not 
 grow with such luxuriance as diose which I have men- 
 tioned. 
 
 On the 3d of July I arrived at Nashville, and found 
 all bustle and preparation for the celebration of the birth- 
 day of the United States. Every citizen, from the day- 
 labourer, to the man who could count thousands, was 
 anxiously anticipating the moment, when the thunder of 
 cannon would announce the dawn of that day which gave 
 his nation a rank among the empires of the world. 
 
304 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 My feelings were in unison with those of the people,' 
 and I felt desirous of partaking in the festivities of the 
 day. A polite invitation which I received from a gentle- 
 man who was present at the inn when I alighted, accom- 
 panied with a ticket which gave me admission to one of 
 the principal dinner parties the next day, gave me a fa- 
 vourable opportunity for gratifying my wishes in this re- 
 spect. The politeness and attention which I received 
 from a number of gentlemen with whom I was not per- 
 sonally acquainted, can only be accounted for by my be- 
 ing in a land of freemen^ with whom hospitality and po^- 
 liteness are not only natural, but easy. 
 
 The next morning the dawning of day was ushered in 
 by the discharge of seventeen cannon, and joy and mirth 
 seemed to have taken possession of the town. The day 
 was remarkably fine, and a light shower of rain which had 
 fallen the preceding day, had contributed to lay the dust, 
 and rendered the promenading pleasant and agreeable. 
 
 About ten o'clock the different independent companies 
 paraded through the town, and exhibited a very martial 
 appearance. Although many of the citizens were absent 
 on military duty, defending their country from foreign 
 invasion on its northern or ^vestem frontiers, yet the spirit 
 of the inhabitants was not damped by this partial depopu- 
 lation, and there is no doubt, had the exigency of the 
 public service required it, but that the Tennesseeans 
 would have turned out to a man, and rallied around 
 the standard of their country. 
 
 At twelve o'clock a procession was formed at the 
 court-house, which proceeded to the Presbyterian meet- 
 ing-house, where an appropriate oration was pronounced 
 by a young man, who acquitted himself with much credit 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 305 
 
 and reputation. The solemnities were concluded with a 
 short and impressive address to the throne of ^ace. The 
 procession was again formed, and proceeded in regular 
 order to the principal tavern, where a plentiful and ele- 
 gant dinner was provided. 
 
 The dinner-hall was decorated in a style of neatness 
 and elegance which gave much satisfaction. Paintings 
 representing some of the most distinguished naval and 
 military battles of die war were hung in conspicuous 
 places ; portraits of the most distinguished officers in 
 the American service, decorated the sides of the hall, and 
 the whole interspersed with festoons of roses, and wreaths 
 of laural, which had a very novel and pleasing effect, and 
 gave animation and variety to the scene. 
 
 At two o'clock, the party, consisting of about ninety 
 gentlemen, sat down to a dinner, which for the variet}^ 
 of its dishes, and the delicacy and costliness of its viands, 
 challenged the cities of New- York or Philadelphia to 
 exceed. When all was arranged, a short and elegant 
 prayer was delivered by one of the clergymen who .had 
 officiated during the day. This being done, each one 
 took his seat, and mirth and hilarity reigned throughout 
 the assembly. 
 
 After the cloth was removed, a number of appropiiate 
 toasts were drank, which at once displayed the spirit of 
 the people, and the contempt in which they held any for- 
 eign invasion. The distinguished chiefs of the revolu- 
 tionaiy war were not forgotten, while those who were 
 then toiling, or had recently bled in the service of their 
 country, received the well-earned tribute of praise. 1 
 select the following, as most characteristic of their feel 
 ings and sentiments, 
 
 39 
 
306 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 " The memory of the immortal Washingto n — He 
 has built his own mausoleum, the grateful hearts of hap- 
 py millions of freemen. 
 
 " The DAY we celebrate — May our posterity preserve 
 inviolate the liberties which are transmitted to them by 
 their ancestors. 
 
 " Brigadier-gerieral Nash, who fell on the 4th Oct. 
 1777 — He was a patriot in times which " tried men's 
 souls ;" may our youth not only Generate the name, but 
 emulate the example of so distinguished a chieftain. 
 
 " The memory of the immortal Lawrence, who glo^ 
 riously fell fighting in defence of his country's rights. 
 
 " How sleep the brave, who sink to rest 
 With all their country's wishes blest. 
 "When spring, with dewy fingers cold. 
 Returns to deck their hallowed mould. 
 She there shall dress a sweeter sbd 
 Than fancy's feet have ever trod." 
 
 The day Was spent with the utmost good humour, 
 jind in the evening we all separated for our respective 
 homes with order and decency. Our late festivities might 
 with propriety be styled the " feast of reason and the flow 
 of soul." 
 
 Nashville is the chief town of Mero district, Davidson 
 county, and is pleasantly situated on the south bank of 
 Cumberland river, where it is about two hundred yards 
 broad. It was called Nashville in honour of brigadier- 
 general Nash, who fell at the battle of Germantown. The 
 town is regularly laid out, and well built, and contains 
 about one thousand inhabitants. It has a court-house, 
 and is the seat of the courts held semi-annually for the 
 district of Mero, and of the courts of pleas and quartei 
 
KER^S TRAVELS. 307 
 
 .•sessions for Davidson county. There are two houses 
 for public worship, besides a Methodist chapel. Here is 
 also an academy, which is handsomely endowed, and well 
 supplied with teachers. 
 
 The lands about Nashville are rich, and divided by 
 the farmers into first, second, and third quality. Land 
 of the first quality will bear Indian corn or hemp, but it 
 will not bear wheat without being reduced. Land of 
 the second quality does not bear wheat to advantage un- 
 til it has been reduced by two or three crops of corn, 
 hemp, tobacco, or cotton. Land of the third quality 
 bears every kind of grain that is usually sown on dry 
 ground in the Atlantic states. It is asserted as a commoii 
 thing for the land to produce from seventy to eighty 
 bushels of Indian corn to the acre. The soil is deep 
 and light, being a small mixture of sand with a black 
 earth ; hence the farmers assert that it will prove favour- 
 able to the culture of all kinds of roots, as well as of in- 
 digo and cotton. 
 
 I left Nashville on the 12th of July, and proceeded ott 
 my journey to Knoxville, which is the largest town in 
 the state. On my route I passed over Cumberland moun- 
 tain, which, in its whole extent from the Great Kanhawa 
 to the Tennessee river, consists of the most stupendous 
 piles of craggy rocks of any mountain in the western 
 country. In several parts of it, for miles, it is inaccessi- 
 ble even to the Indians on foot. In one place particulai*- 
 ly, near the summit of the mountain, there is a most re- 
 iparkable ledge of rocks, of about thirty miles in length 
 and two hundred feet in thickness, showing a perpendicu- 
 lar face to the southeast more noble and grand than an} 
 artificial fortification in the kno^vn world, and apparently 
 
308 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 equal in point of regularity. Through this stupendous 
 pile, according to some modern authors, the waters of all 
 the upper branches of the Tennessee forced their way- 
 The attempt would have been impracticable at any other 
 place than the one mentioned, for more than one hundred 
 miles eastwardly. Here, then, seems to have been the 
 chasm left by the Creator to convey off those waters, 
 which must otherwise have overflowed, and rendered use- 
 less a vast tract of valuable country enclosed within the 
 mountain. 
 
 The enchanted mountain, about two miles south of 
 Brasstown, is principally remarkable for the curiosities 
 on its rocks. There are on several of the rocks' a num- 
 ber of impressions, resembling the tracks of tlirkies, 
 bears, horses, and human beings, as visible and perfect 
 as they could be made in snow or sand. The latter tracks 
 are remarkable for having uniformly six toes each, only 
 one excepted, which appears to be the print of a negro's 
 foot. By this it may be supposed that the originals 
 were the progeny of Titan or Anak. One of these tracks 
 is very large, the length of the foot being sixteen inches, 
 the proximate breadth behind the toes seven inches, and 
 the diameter of the heel- ball five. One of the horse tracks 
 is likewise of an uncommon size, the transverse and con- 
 jugate diameters being eight by ten inches ; perhaps the 
 horse which some mighty warrior rode. What appears 
 the most in favour of these being the real tracks of the 
 animals they represent, is the circumstance of a track 
 which appears to have been made by the slipping of a 
 horse's foot several inches, and the same kind of tracks 
 having all the same direction, like the trail of a company 
 on a journey. If it be a lusus natures ^ the old dame 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 309 
 
 never sported more seriously ; if the operation of chance, 
 never was there more apparent design. If it were done 
 by art, it might be to perpetuate the remembrance of 
 some remarkable event of war, or engagement fought on 
 the ground. The vast heaps of stones near the place, 
 f5aid to be the tombs of warriors slain in battle, seem to 
 favour the supposition. The texture of the rock is soft 
 and can be easily cut with a knife, and appears to be of 
 the nature of the pipe- stone. Some of the tribes of In- 
 dians entertain an opinion that it rains whenever any one 
 visits the place, as if sympathetic nature wept at the re- 
 collection of the dreadful catastrophe which those figures 
 were intended to represent. 
 
 I met with no occurrence which is worth relating, my 
 j ourney being mostly through a wilderness ^vhich had not 
 yet been subject to the culturing hand of man, and on the 
 evening of the fifth day I arrived at Knoxville. 
 
 CHAP. XXXL 
 
 « 
 
 Knoxville — Medicinal spri?ig — Quality of the land — 
 Rogersville — Greenville — Jonesborough — Mingdon — .- 
 Taarsville — Georgetown. 
 
 K-NoxviLLE is built in one of the most beautiful situa- 
 tions that the state of Tennessee affords. It enjoys a 
 communication widi every part of the state, and is one 
 of the most flourij^hing places in the western country. It 
 is situated on the Holston river,, twentv-t^vo miles abo^'f • 
 
filO KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 its junction with the Tennessee, and four miles below 
 the mouth of French Broad, or Frank river. The town 
 is regularly laid out, and contains about two hundred 
 houses and one thousand inhabitants. Here is a court- 
 house, gaol, and barracks large enough to contain one 
 thousand men. A very elegant church has lately been 
 huilt, and there are a number of handsome houses now 
 building, some of which are three stories high. Here 
 are five stores for European and West- India goods. 
 There are a number of branches of mechanical business 
 caried on by the inhabitants, and the mechanics receive a 
 liberal price for their labour. 
 
 llie district courts of the United States are held semi- 
 annually here and at Nashville. A college has been 
 erected here, which is handsomely endowed, and will in 
 time become a valuable institution ; it is called Blount 
 college. 
 
 The river Holston is three hundred yards wide oppo- 
 site to Knoxville, and affords a fine navigation for the 
 conveyance of produce from the town. 
 
 On Frank river, not far distant from this town, a 
 large, clear, medicinal spring has lately been discovered, 
 "which, on experiments being made, has been found to 
 reheve various complaints of tlie human body ; its temv 
 perature rather exceeds blood heat. The water of this 
 spring contains iron, a mineral alkali, common salt, and 
 lime. From the fixed air it contains it sometimes has 
 in a small degree the effect of spiritous liquors. Physi- 
 cians seldom direct more than three quarts of this water 
 to be drank in a day, but I have known some who have 
 taken as many gallons. This water is injurious in all 
 consumptive complaints, and to all habits prone to in- 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 311 
 
 flammation. It gives relief in difficulty of digestion, want 
 of appetite, hypochondria, and all those complaints in 
 either sex for which chalybeates are proper. The stone, 
 gravel, and phthisic, have been relieved by a free use of 
 this water. 
 
 The land in the neighbourhood of Knoxville is in ma- 
 ny places rich and fertile, and many parts of it are thickly 
 studded with poplar, hickory, black walnut, buck-eye, 
 or the horse chesnut, sycamore, locust, and sugar maple 
 trees. The undergrowth in many places is cane, fifteen 
 or twenty feet high, and so close as to exclude all other 
 plants : where the cane does not abound, we find red bud, 
 wild plum, spicewood, red and white mulberry, ginseng, 
 Virginia and Seneca snakeroot, angelica, sweet anise, 
 ginger, and wild hops. 
 
 The woods abound with a plenty of game, such as 
 pheasants, partridges, or quails, and turkies in abundance 
 through the year. During the winter season the waters 
 of the French Broad aiFord plenty of swans, wild geese, 
 brant, and ducks. Catfish have been caught in that river 
 that weighed upwards of one hundred pounds, and perch 
 that weighed more than twenty pounds. 
 
 After remaining a few days, I set out from Knoxville 
 for Rogersville, which is distant sixty-four miles. The 
 morning was cloudy, and the thermometer stood at 60** , 
 In the evening I put up at Bean Station, which is twenty- 
 seven miles distant from Rogersville. The inn had tol^ 
 erably good accommodations, and my landlord was civil, 
 but so very inquisitive that I hardly had time to answer 
 one question before another was asked. At last I looked 
 him seriously in the face, and asked him if he was not a 
 yankee. He took the hint, and eaid hc^ supposed I 
 
312 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 thought so from his asking a number of questions. He 
 immediately withdrew, and after eating a hearty supper I 
 retired to bed. 
 
 The next morning being clear, I set forward, and pro- 
 ceeded through an agreeable country, fertile and well wa- 
 tered. About ten miles distant from Bean Station, I found 
 a man who was travelling my road, and who appeared to 
 possess some considerable information. I asked him 
 how long he had been in the country. He replied that 
 Jie had been here about two years ; that he emigrated 
 from the state of Pennsylvania, and purchased one hun- 
 dred acres of land on Clinch river, and that he had since 
 purchased about two hundred acres more. He said that 
 the lands were rich, and would produce about 70 or 
 80 bushels of Indian corn to the acre. He recommended 
 the country very highly, and assured me that he had 
 never been more healthy in his life. " Formerly," said 
 he, "I ^vas troubled with a severe pain in the breast, and 
 difficulty of breathing, but now I am perfectly healthy^ 
 and free from any pain." 
 
 About 4 o'clock in the afternoon, I entered Rogersville, 
 a pleasant and thriving little town, the capital of Hawkins 
 county. It contains about thirty houses, and about ninety 
 inhabitants. It has a court-house, in which the business 
 of the county of Hawkins is transacted. The tavern is 
 well kept and furnishes good accommodations. 
 
 In the morning, about six o'clock, I went on for 
 Greenville, which is situated about twenty-six miles from 
 Rogersville. I passed several well cultivated plantations, 
 which appeared to raise all the necessaries of life in abun- 
 dance. Apples, pears, and other fruit, are not as yet 
 plenty in tliis country, although the farmers attend to the 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 313 
 
 r?iising of them, and will soon be able to make excellent 
 cider. Whiskey is made in large quantities ; but as it is, 
 to use the expression of Dr. Belknap, " the bane of so- 
 ciety," it is hoped it will give place to less ardent and 
 more nourishing liquors. 
 
 As I travelled leisurely, I did not arrive in Greenville 
 until three o'clock. It is a small place, of about forty 
 houses, and one hundred and fifty inhabitants. It is sit- 
 uated on the west side of the northeast branch of the 
 Nolachuckee river, six miles distant from Greenville 
 college. It is a post town, and promises to be a tliriving 
 little place. 
 
 The road from thence to Jonesborough is level, and 
 very good. The weather was clear and remarkably mild 
 for the season, and I could travel all day without any 
 inconyenience. 
 
 In the evening I arrived at Jonesborough, the chief 
 town of Washington district ; it is weU laid out, and 
 contains many houses which are handsomely built* 
 Here is a court-house, in which the district and county 
 court business is done. It is a healthy place, and the 
 inhabitants manufacture most of their own clothing. 
 
 In the morning I started forward with the intention of 
 plroceeding to Abingdon in Virginia, which is sixty -four 
 itiiles from Jonesborough. I'he day was fine, and at 
 night I put up at a neat public house, ^vhere I was fur- 
 nished with a good supper and bed ; this, it may be ob- 
 served, is generally the case in these parts. They have 
 plenty of good ducks and chickens, and their cellars af- 
 ford them a plenty of ham and smoked beef, so that let a 
 traveller call at what hour of the day he may, in a few 
 minutes they will furnish him with a broiled chicken, 
 
 40 
 
314 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 some excellent ham, and a plenty of good bread and po^ 
 tatoes, raised on their own farms. 
 
 In the morning I found a gentleman who was going 
 towards Abingdon, and we agreed to proceed in compa- 
 ny. He was a Virginian, and had been into the state of 
 Tennessee to purchase land. He told me that he had 
 bought one hundred and twenty acres of excellent land 
 at forty dollars per acre, and that he judged it to be as 
 good as any land in the state of Virginia. What a trifle 
 to render a man independent, while in Europe the same 
 sum will scarcely maintain a family and pay the enormous 
 taxes for one year ! 
 
 We pushed on with considerable speed, and late in the 
 evening arrived at Abingdon, having co^ne forty miles, 
 I immediately put up at a genteel boarding-house and 
 soon retired to rest, and did not rise in the morning till 
 the bell summoned me to the breakfast table. 
 
 Abingdon is the chief town of Washington county, 
 Virginia, containing about two hundred houses. It is 
 well laid out, and is a healthy and agreeable little place. 
 Here is a court-house and meeting-house, and eight 
 stores for European goods, 
 
 I remained in Abingdon two days, as my horse had 
 become lame. He had been rode very hard for a few days 
 past, but being in every respect a sound and good bodied 
 horse, he recovered in a few days, and was fit to pro- 
 ceed. 
 
 The morning was pleasant, and the travelUng very 
 good. I rode forward through a country which was 
 agreeably interspersed with farm-houses and fields under 
 excellent cultivation. I stopped to dine with a gentle- 
 man of the name of Williams, who entertained me ^\'ith 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 315 
 
 Anuch hospitality. He told me he liad about sixty acres 
 of excellent land under cultivation, and nearly ninety 
 more which he intended clearing as soon as possible. 
 He had four promising children, whose round faces and 
 rosy cheeks proclaimed them in a land of plenty. 
 
 In the evening I put up with a planter who had re- 
 cently removed to this country ; he appeared contented 
 with his situation, and spake with confidence of making 
 great improvements on his land in the course of a few 
 years. 
 
 I proceeded along a road which was low and marshy ; 
 about twelve o'clock the road became better. I stopped 
 to dine wida a gentleman of the name of Harcourt, whose 
 house is situated at a small distance from the road. In 
 the evening I put up at a farm house, where I had good 
 substantial fare and a good bed. 
 
 I started about six o'clock in the morning, and pro- 
 ceeded forward with considerable expedition. 1 passed 
 several thriving orchards of peach trees, which here come 
 to maturity in about three years ; there is an insect, how- 
 ever, which destroys the trees in a few years after they 
 begin to bear. 
 
 About two o'clock I arrived at Taarsville. The town 
 is pleasantly situated, and contains about forty houses ; it 
 has a post-office, and is a place ^f considerable businessc 
 Here is a tavern which furnishes good accommodations, 
 and two stores for European goods. 
 
 The land about Taarsville is good, and that of the first 
 quality is selling at from forty to forty-five dollars per 
 acre ; the common land is worth from fifteen to twenty- 
 five dollars, and is equal to land in many parts ol' the old 
 
316 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 settlements which is selling at sixty and seventy dollar^ 
 per acre. 
 
 From Taarsville I started for Georgetown, which is 
 eighty- nine miles distant. The road was good, being of 
 a light soil, which appears to lay upon a strata of lime- 
 stone five or six feet below the surface. The water is all 
 impregnated with lime, but is soft, and when used for a 
 short time perfectly agreeable. In the evening I put up 
 at the house of a gentleman who entertained me with 
 much hospitality. 
 
 The country here is agreeably interspersed with farm- 
 houses, at the distance of two or three miles apart, so that 
 a traveller is but a short time out of sight of one house 
 before he has a view of another. This day travelling was 
 rendered unpleasant by the heat, the thermometer stand- 
 ing at 84° in the shade. I put up at an early hour, having 
 come thirty miles. 
 
 The next morning was cloudy, and the air very close, 
 I rode about ten miles, and stopped at the house of widow 
 woman to breakfast. Her husband had been dead about 
 eight months, and she informed me that she expected 
 shordy to be married. I smiled when she mentioned it, 
 and told her I thought she was rather in haste. '' I think 
 not,-' said she, *' for I have been courted four months, 
 and I am sure that is long enough for any woman to make 
 up her mind." At this reply I could not help laughing, 
 which not a little chagrined the good woman. I observed 
 as an apology, that it was customary, in the eastern states, 
 to wait at least one year before another courtship com- 
 mences. *' Why so it is," said the woman, " but then 
 a body is so lonesome to live all alone, and a man is such 
 a handy creature to do a thousand little things which a 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 317 
 
 body cannot do for themselves, that I can't see how any 
 body can be contented without one ; for my part, I have 
 not had a sound night's sleep since my poor husband 
 died, for I abominably hate to sleep alone." This pro- 
 duced another hearty laugh, in which I was joined by 
 my kind hostess ; she appeared to be about thirty years of 
 age, and possessed a large portion of that loquacity which 
 is a general characteristic of the female sex. 
 
 About dark I put up at a neat comfortable house, 
 where I was well entertained. After WTiting a short time 
 I retired to bed, and slept soundly till the matin hymn of 
 the feathered songsters roused me from my bed to pur- 
 sue my journey. 
 
 I rode ten miles in the morning, and took breakfast 
 with an elderly gentleman to whom I had a letter from 
 his son in Tennessee. The old gentleman's family con- 
 sisted of his wife, and two daughters, who were about 
 sixteen, and very pretty. Contentment and happiness 
 seemed to preside in the family, and rendered it a picture 
 of domestic felicity. 
 
 It was near four o'clock when I reached Georgetown, 
 the weather being so very warm as to render the travel- 
 ling unpleasant during the middle of the day. I pro- 
 ceeded to the inn, vyhich is well furnished and has good 
 accommodations. 
 
 Georgetown is small and not very regularly built ; it 
 contains about seventy houses and five hundred inhab- 
 itants. It is a place of some business, and promises in 
 time to become a place of considerable trade. 
 
 The land about Georgetown is said to be good, and a, 
 large proportion of it of the second and third quality. 
 The growth of timber is luxuriant, which is generally 
 
318 / KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 bla(5k walnut, hickory, buck-eye, &c. Good land can 
 be purchased in the neighbourhood at twenty and thirty 
 dollars per acre. My next route was for Lexington, 
 "ivhich was formerly considered as the capital of the 
 state of Kentucky. 
 
 CHAJP. XXXII. 
 
 Departure from Georgetown — Lexington — Description 
 of it — Mammoth hones — Causes why superficial ob- 
 servers have supposed the mammoth and elephant to be 
 of the same species — Tradition of the Shawanese In- 
 dians — Frankfort — Description of it. 
 
 In the morning I settled my bill, and proceeded in 
 company with a gentleman who was going to Lexingtoa 
 for his right to some land which he had purchased a short 
 time since. We travelled eight miles, and stopped to 
 breakfast, at a neat house, where we had a good break- 
 fast of veal cutlets. I was informed that they generally 
 killed their veal when about four weeks old, and the 
 average weight was from one hundred to one hundred 
 and twenty pounds each. 
 
 The country through which we now travelled is very 
 rapidly improving. The gentleman informed me that he 
 travelled through this country about fifteen years ago, at 
 which time there was but one house from Georgetown to 
 Lexington, but we now counted more than twenty. In 
 the evening we put up, having travelled thirty-six miles. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 319 
 
 The next- morning we rode forward ten miles to 
 breakfast. T he road is for the most part good ; the soil 
 of a reddish clay, intermixed with small stones. 
 
 About dark we arrived at Lexington, and I put up at 
 the principal inn, kept by Mr. Passelweight, who was 
 very civil and obliging, and the accommodations good. 
 
 Lexington is the largest town in Kentucky ; it is sit- 
 uated on a rich and extensive plain, in Fayette county, 
 in lat. 38° 6' north, and 84*^ 26' west Ion. It is regularly 
 laid out, and well built, contaiiiing about eight hundred 
 houses, and four thousand two hundred inhabitants. It 
 has a court-house and gaol, besides three places of public 
 worship. There are two weekly papers printed in this 
 town. Lexington is twenty -foiir miles north of Frank- 
 fort, and is in every respect a flourishing and well situ- 
 ated town. 
 
 The land in the vicinity of Lexington is rich, and the 
 improvements which are making have caused it of late to 
 bear a high price. Some lots of second quality land have 
 been sold at fifty dollars the acre, and from the progress 
 of improvements it is reasonable to suppose it will be 
 much higher, as it has risen in two years fifty per cent. 
 The inhabitants export large quantities of live stock, 
 which find a ready market at New- Orleans. 
 
 At Lexington there is a mill carried by steam, which 
 supplies the whole town with flour ; it is an ingenious 
 and well- constructed piece of mechanism, and is of much 
 importance to the place. 
 
 In caves near Lexington are found skeletons of the 
 human body, which are arranged in the following order ; 
 First on the ground aie laid large broad stones ; on these 
 3re placed tlie bodies, separated from each otlier by broarl 
 
:^20 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 stones, and covered with other stones, which serve as a 
 basis for the next arrangement of bodies. In this order 
 they were built without mortar^ to the height of a man, 
 tvery laying of the pile being narrower than the one un- 
 der it. This method of burying is certainly totally differ- 
 ent from that now practised by the Indians. 
 
 At several places near Lexington, and in the neigh- 
 bourhood of salt springs in this state, are found bones 
 whose enormous size has attracted the attention of natur- 
 ahsts, and which have been ascertained beyond a doubt 
 to belong to a kind of animals long since extinct. Speci- 
 mens of these bones have been sent both to France and 
 England, where they haVe been examined with the great- 
 est care, and found upon comparison to be the remains 
 of the same species of animals that produced those other 
 fossil bones which have been discovered in Tartary, Chi- 
 li, and several other places, both of the old and new con- 
 tinent. What animal this is, and why its ruins are found 
 in regions so widely separated, in neither of which it now 
 exists, is a question of most difficult solution. The ig- 
 norant and superstitious Tartars attribute these bones to 
 a creature whom they call maimon, which, they say, usu- 
 ally resides at the bottom of the rivers, and of whom they 
 relate many marvellous stories ; but as this is an assertion 
 totally divested of proof, and even of probability, it has 
 justly been rejected ty the learned ; and, on the other 
 hand, it is certain that no such amphibious quadrupeds 
 exist in the American waters. The bones bear a great 
 resemblance to those of the elephant. There is no other 
 ten-estrial animal now known large enough to produce 
 them. The tusks, with which they are both furnished, 
 equally produce true ivory. These external resemblances 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 321 
 
 iiave generally led superficial observers to conclude that 
 they could belong to no other than that quadruped ; and 
 when they first drew the attention of the world, philoso- 
 phers seem to have subscribed to the same opinion. But 
 if this opinion be correct, whence is it that the whole spe- 
 cies has disappeared in America ? An animal so labori- 
 ous and so docile as the elephant, the industry of the Pe- 
 ruvians (which reduced to servitude and subjected to 
 education species so much inferior in these qualities as 
 the lama and the paca) could never have overlooked, if 
 it had been to be found in their country. Whence is it 
 that these bones are found in climates where the elephant,, 
 which i^a native of the torrid zone, cannqt even subsist 
 in his wild state, and in a state of servitude will not propa- 
 gate ? These are difficulties sufficient to stagger credulity 
 itself, and at last produced the inquiries of the celebrated 
 anatomist. Dr. Hunter, whose indefatigable diligence soon 
 discovered the mistake which had misled the naturalists 
 of Europe, 
 
 He procured specimens of these bones from different 
 parts of the western country, and examined' them with 
 that accuracy for which he is distingushed. He has dis- 
 covered a considerable diffi^rence between the shape and 
 structure of these bones and those of the elephant. He 
 observed from the form of the teeth that they must have 
 belonged to a carnivorous animal ; whereas the habits of 
 the elephant are foreign to such sustenance, and his jaws 
 totally unprovided with the teeth necessary for its use ; 
 and from the whole he concluded, to the satisfaction of 
 naturalists, that these bones belonged to a quadruped now 
 unknown, but to which the name of mammoth has been 
 given, with what propriety I will not pretend to say. The 
 
 41 
 
322 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 race is probably extinct, unless it may be found in the 
 extensive continent of New-Holland, whose recesses 
 have not yet been pervaded by the curiosity or avidity of 
 civilized man. 
 
 • Mr. Jefferson says " that the grinders of the mam- 
 moth are five or six times as large as those of the ele- 
 phant." Col. Morgan denies this, and observes, " i 
 have seen the grinders of an elephant as large and as hea- 
 vy as the largest of the mammoth ; they are indeed thin- 
 ner, deeper rooted, and differently shaped, denoting a 
 granivorous animal, whereas the grinders of the mam- 
 moth resemble those of a wolf or dog, and show them to 
 have been carnivorous." 
 
 The following tradition, which is existing among the 
 Shawanese Indians, is given in their own words, to show 
 that the impression made on their minds by it must have 
 been forcible. 
 
 " Ten thousand moons ago, when nought but gloomy 
 forests covered this land of the sleeping sun ; long before 
 the pale men, with thunder and fire at their command, 
 rushed on the wings of the wind to ruin this garden of 
 nature ; when nought but the untamed wanderers of the 
 woods, and men as unrestrained as they, were the lords 
 of the soil, a race of animals were in being huge as the 
 frowning precipice, cruel as the bloody panther, swift as 
 the descending eagle, and terrible as the angel of night. 
 The pines crashed beneath their feet, and the lakes shrunk 
 when they slaked their thirst. I'he forceful javelin in 
 vain was hurled, and the barbed arrow fell harmless from 
 their side. Forests were laid waste at a meal ; the groans 
 of^expiring animals were every where heard, and whole 
 villages inhibited by men were destroyed in a moment. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 32S 
 
 The cry of universal distress extended even to the region 
 of peace in the west, and the Good Spirit interposed to 
 save the unhappy. The forked lightning gleamed all 
 around, and loudest thunder rocked the globe. The 
 bolts of heaven were hurled upon the cruel destroyers 
 alone, and the mountains echoed with the bellowings of 
 deatli. All were killed except one male, the fiercest of 
 the race, and him even the red artillery of heaven assailed 
 i n vain. He ascended the bluest summit which shades the 
 source of the Monongahela, and roaring aloud, bid defi-^ 
 ance to ever>^ vengeance. The red lightning scorched 
 the lofty firs, and rived the mighty oaks, but only glanced 
 upon the enraged rjionster. At length, maddening with 
 rage, he leaped over the waves of the west, and at this 
 moment reigns the .uncontrolled monarch of the wilder- 
 ness, in despite even of omnipotence itself." 
 
 I staid in Lexington a few days, and proceeded on to 
 Frankfort, the capital of Kentucky. This town is in 
 Franklin county, and pleasantly situated on the northeast 
 side of Kentucky river, fifty miles from its confluence 
 with the Ohio. This river rises with three heads from a 
 mountainous p^t of the country ; it is amazingly crook 
 ed, upwards of two hundred miles in length, and about 
 one hundred and fifty yards broad opposite the town. 
 
 The state house is a handsome stone building, and has 
 apartments in which most of the public offices are kept. 
 Here is a tobacco warehouse ; the town is improving 
 very fast, and its situation is agreeable and healthy ; it is 
 in latitude 38° 14' north. 
 
 The township contains one hundred and sixteen thou 
 sand six hundred and fifty-six acres, and the banl^s of the 
 river are better setded than any other parts of the state 
 
324 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 The river is navigable for large craft many miles above 
 the town, and the deep creeks into the interior parts fov 
 boats of considerable size. 
 
 As I intend to leave the state of Kentucky, and the 
 *vestern country, I shall here introduce a few observations 
 which may be of service to those who may w4sh to re- 
 move to this country from England, or any other parts of 
 Europe. 
 
 The numbers which have emigrated to this country 
 from Europe, have awakened the jealousy and the fears of 
 the British government, and they have, by magnifying tri- 
 fling circumstances, attempted to put a stop to a practice, 
 which, though its effects are sl6w, are not the less sure in 
 weakening the strength and resources of the European 
 countries. Slight skirmishes with the Indians have been 
 termed bloody battles ; the fevers which have raged in 
 Philadelphia and New- York have been held forth as a 
 proof of an unhealthy climate throughout the United 
 States. These, however, need no refutation. The rapid 
 increase of population in the United States fully proves 
 that these assertions are totally unfounded. I shall at- 
 tempt to point out some of the advantages vvhich an emi- 
 grant will have in going to the western country, and draw 
 some comparison between this country and many*parts 
 of Europe very much to the advaptage of the former. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 325 
 
 CHAP. XXXIII. 
 
 fjeneral information to settlers, either from Europe or 
 the United States, pointing out tfw advantages arising 
 from settling iti the western country. 
 
 The United States of America are under a free repre- 
 sentative government, and every citizen has a voice in 
 electing such men as will make laws for the good of the 
 community, and preserve inviolate their constitution. 
 
 There are in the country but very few persons, exclu- 
 sive of some who reside in New- York, Philadelphia, and a 
 few otlier cities, who would in Europe be considered 
 rich ; but it is highly gratifying to the feelings of an 
 American to know, that there are very few w^ho can with 
 propriety be considered poor. There is rather a happy 
 mediocrity that prevails throughout the country. You 
 no where see in the United States, that disgusting and 
 melancholy contrast so common in Europe, of vice and 
 wretchedness, and filth and rags, in the immediate neigh- 
 bourhood of the most wanton extravagance and the most 
 useless and luxurious parade. 
 
 Nor are the ppor so depressed as they are in Great- 
 Britain. They have no military to keep them in awe, 
 nor hired spies and informers to pierce the inmost recess- 
 es of society, and call forth one part of a family against 
 another, thus destroying domestic happiness ; but all is 
 peace, order, and harmony. 
 
 In England a young man is restrained from marrying 
 ?>oni the fear of an expensive family establishment. Ti 
 
326 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 is considered as a mark of prudence to remain single ; 
 it is openly commended, and as rigidly practiced as the 
 voice of nature will allow. The married man, whose 
 passions have been stronger, whose morals have been 
 less callous, or whose interest has furnished motives to 
 matrimony, doubts whether each child he has be not a 
 misfortune, and looks upon his offspring with a melan- 
 choly kind of affection that imbitters some of the most 
 pleasurable moments of his life. 
 
 In America, particularly in the western country, no 
 man feels anxious about the support of a family. There, 
 every one feels *the increase of his family to be the in- 
 crease of his happiness, and no farmer doubts about the 
 facility of providing for his children as comfortably as 
 he has lived, where land is so cheap and so fertile, where 
 societ}^ is so much upon an equality, and where the pro- 
 digious increase of population, from natural and accident- 
 al causes, and the improving state of the country, furnish- 
 es a market for whatever superfluous produce he chooses 
 to raise, without incessantly presenting that temptation to 
 artificial expense and extravagant competition, so com- 
 mon and so numerous in European countries. 
 
 This part of the country has not, indeed, many charms 
 for the dissipated and voluptuous part of mankind ; but 
 it has very many for the rational, sober-minded, and dis- 
 creet. It is a part of the United States which affords 
 great opportunities of comfort and prosperity to people of 
 good property, to those in moderate circumstances, and 
 to the industrious and honest poor. Sobriety, industry, 
 and frugality, will soon enable the latter class to become, 
 ){ not rich, at least in moderate circumstances. 
 
 Kentucky, in regard to soil and climate, has certainlv 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 327 
 
 the preference to any state in the union. Nature has 
 given to the regions of this fair country a fertihty so as- 
 tonishing, that to believe it, occular demonstration be- 
 comes necessary. To this advantage, I may add that of 
 the number of European settlers who have emigrated, 
 and continue to emigrate thither, and the consequent 
 rapid state of improvement that has followed. Lands in 
 and near the towns in this state, must continue to increase 
 in their value, and many purchases may now be made in 
 different parts of the country with very great advantage 
 to settlers. Some difficulties will undoubtedly be expe- 
 rienced, and such as must naturally be expected in an 
 unsettled country. 
 
 Farmers, for the most part, do their own work in this 
 «tate, cultivating their farms and living upon the produce, 
 A few slaves may be had, but, for the honour of hu- 
 manity, it is to be hoped that this abominable method of 
 cultivating our fields will be avoided. The whole com- 
 merce between master and slave is a perpetual exercise of 
 the most boisterous passions ; the most unremitting des-- 
 potism on the one part, and degrading submission on 
 the other. The children see this, and learn to imitate it, 
 for man is an imitative animal. This quality is the gerni 
 of all education in him ; from his cradle to his grave he 
 is learning to do what he sees others do. If a parent 
 could find no motive, either in his philanthrophy or his 
 self-love, for restraining the intemperance of passion to- 
 wards his slave, it should always be a sufficient one that 
 his child is present ; but generally it is not*" sufficient* 
 While the parent storms, the child looks on, catches the 
 lineaments of wrath, and puts on the same air in the cir« 
 cle of his smaller slaves, gives a loose to his wor^t 
 
328 KER'S TRAVELS, 
 
 passions ; and thus educated, and daily practised in ty-^ 
 ranny, he cannot but be stamped with its odious peculiari- 
 ties. The man must be a prodigy who can retain his 
 manners and morals undepraved under such circum- 
 stances. Exclusive of this, it begets a habit of indolence. 
 This is so true, that of the proprietors of slaves, a very 
 small proportion indeed are ever seen to labour. And 
 can the liberties of a nation be thought secure when they 
 have removed their only firm basis, a conviction in the 
 minds of the people that these liberties are the gift of God 5 
 that they are not to be violated but with his wrath. 
 
 Religion, in this state, is established on a basis as free 
 as the air we breathe. It allows all its citizens to worship 
 God according to the dictates of their own consciences, 
 so long as they conduct themselves with order and 
 decency. 
 
 CHAP. XXXIV. 
 
 Leave Frankfort for White Court-hou^ — Huntsville--^ 
 Choctaw nation — St, Stephens — Mobile — Pensacola — - 
 Observations on the soil of West-Florida and the cuU 
 ture of cotton. 
 
 On the 20th of October I left Frankfort, intending to 
 take a route by the way of White Gourt-house, Hunts- 
 ville, the Chickasaw and Choctaw nations, to St. Ste- 
 phens. The journey was long, and in many respects 
 tedious, and my sole reason for undertaking it was for 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 329 
 
 the purpose of procuring furs, of which I understood the 
 Choctaws collected great numbers. 
 
 The morning was ver}- fine, and I proceeded on with- 
 out meeting with any thing remarkable during this day's 
 journey, not having yet left the neighbourhood of Frank- 
 fort, of which I have akeady gi\ en some description. 
 
 The distance from Frankfort to VV hite Court-house is 
 one hundred and sixty miles ; the road for the most part 
 is good, and for the first sixty miles agreeably interspers- 
 ed with farm houses ; for about fifty miles more the 
 houses are thinly scattered, and improvements have not 
 as yet begun to take place, ahhough the land is rich, and 
 sold ver}' cheap. I met with no occurrence worth re- 
 lating, and arrived at White Court-house about twelve 
 o'clock on the sixth day after my departure from Franks 
 fort. 
 
 White Court-house has nothing to recommend it to the 
 attention of travellers. It is a small place, and but thinly 
 inhabited, and is situated in Warren county. Almost all 
 the business of the county is transacted in this place. The 
 land is good, and there is no doubt but that in a few years 
 it will become a thriving settlement. 
 
 I proceeded forward in the morning for Fayetteville, 
 and after riding about ten miles, stopped and took break- 
 fast with a farmer. After breakfast I pursued tny jour- 
 ney. The weather was \er\^ warm, and the travelling 
 unpleasant in the middle of the day. I stopped to dine 
 with a gentlemen of the name of Berr}-, who entertained 
 me with much hospitality. In the evening I lodged with 
 a former who appeared to have a large quantity of excel- 
 lent land, and ^vho had a small family of nine boys and 
 two girls. 
 
 42 
 
330 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 The next morning I rode ten miles to a neat farm 
 house, where I obtained a comfortable breakfast. The 
 day was cloudy, which rendered the travelling more 
 pleasant. About dark I arrived at Huntsville, and put 
 up for the night. 
 
 Huntsville is a small but thriving litde place, and has 
 a court-house which is handsomely built. They have 
 no meeting-house as yet, but are about collecting funds 
 for the purpose of erecting one. At present they have 
 preaching in a large log house, which is appropriated to 
 that use. The town is situated at a short distance from 
 Elk river, which is navigable within a few miles for boats, 
 and is of considerable service to the town. 
 
 ' In the morning I went forward on my route, and found 
 the weather cool and agreeable. About eight miles 
 from Huntsville I stopped to breakfast, and then proceed- 
 ed eighteen miles to the house of a farmer, where I put 
 up for the night. 
 
 At six o'clock the next morning I went forward, and 
 at about eight I crossed the river not far from Fort De- 
 posit, and proceeded for the Chickasaw nation. My road 
 now lay, for the most part, through an uncultivated wil- 
 derness, which, although rich in all the productions of 
 nature, has nevertheless nothing which can render a de- 
 scription of it either necessary or entertaining. 
 
 On the fourth day after my crossing the river, I arrived 
 within the territories of the Choctaws, or Flat HeadS;, 
 n'hich are a powerful, hardy, and subtle nation. 
 - They inhabit* a fine and extensive tract of hilly country, 
 with large and fertile plains, intervening between the Ala- 
 bama and Missisippi rivers. This nation had, not many 
 years ago, a number of towns and villages, and mnV^ 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 331 
 
 viiiister about three thousand fighting men ; but by con- 
 tinual wars, in which it has been their destiny to be en- 
 gaged, both with other Indian tribes and with the whites, 
 they have been much reduced, and are becoming weak 
 and pusillanimous. 
 
 Their complexion is brighter than that of the neigh- 
 bouring Indians. They are robust and well made, and 
 taller than any of tlieir neighbours, being generally six 
 feet high. Their women are well made, tall, slender, 
 and delicate. 
 
 The Choctaws, different from most of the Indian 
 tribes bordering upon the United States, have lately be- 
 gan to employ much of their time in agricultural pursuits, 
 after the manner of the whites. 
 
 The distance from the Choctaws to the Chickasawka 
 has been estimated at two hundred miles, which in my 
 opinion is incorrect, and probably one hundred and sixty 
 would be nearer the true distance. The road is, for the 
 most part, through a wilderness, and in some places it is 
 dangerous travelling on account of the straggling Indians 
 which are scattered through the woods. 1 carried my 
 provision with me, and generally took breakfast before 
 starting in the morning, when I would cook enough to 
 last me till evening. In seven days after my leaving the 
 Choctaws, I arrived in Chickasawka. 
 
 Chickasawka is situated on the head waters of the 
 Tombigbee river, which is the dividing line between the 
 Creeks and the Choctaws. This river derives its name 
 from a fort which is situated on the west side of it, about 
 ninety-six miles above the town of Mobile. 
 
 Government has had it in contemplation to cut a road 
 from die Muscle Shoals to the Tombigbee, the distance 
 
332 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 of about seventy miles. Surveyors were appointed for 
 the purpose, but from some causes not generally known, 
 it has never been done. 
 
 The land in and about the Chickasawka is rich and 
 fertile, but the inhabitants do not attend much to agricul- 
 ture. Trading with the Indians for furs, of which they 
 send large quantities to Mobile, forms the principal part 
 of their commerce, and receives their most particular at- 
 tention. 
 
 I remained in this place better than three weeks, during 
 which time I purchased large quantities of furs, with the 
 intention of taking them to St. Stephens, where I expect- 
 ed to dispose of them at an advanced price. 
 
 I purchased two horses, which I used as pack-horses, 
 and started for St. Stephens, which is fifty-five miles 
 distant from Chickasawka. I proceeded slowly along 
 "without meeting with any remarkable occurrence, and on 
 the evening of the 2d of December, arrived at St. Ste- 
 phens. 
 
 The town of St. Stephens is small, and not very regu- 
 larly built ; it is situated on the Tombigbee river, and 
 contains about ninety houses and three hundred inhab- 
 itants. It is a place of considerable trade, and annually 
 furnishes a large number of skins for the European mar- 
 kets. The Choctaw Indians alone, in two years, brought 
 to this market two hundred and twenty-five thousand 
 skins, which were exchanged for European and West- 
 India goods. These skins are shipped by the merchants 
 to those places which furnish the best market. This is a 
 thriving place, and promises in a few years to become 
 of considerable importance to the United States. 
 
 My. skins did not find so ready a market here as I 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 333 
 
 expected, owing to there being a large quantity on hand, 
 and but few shipments, which determined me to go down 
 the river to Mobile, where there was a probability of 
 my meeting with a more advantageous market. Having 
 but few arrangements to make, in four days after my 
 arrival I was ready to proceed. 
 
 I went on board of a boat which was going down the 
 river, and which was the most expeditious mode of tra- 
 velling. I found on board a number of gentlemen who 
 were going on to New- Orleans and Pensacola. We had 
 an agreeable passage, and nothing was wanting to render 
 it pleasing and delightful. On the third day, about one 
 o'clock, we arrived at Mobile. 
 
 I here found a ready market for my furs, at an advance 
 of seventy-five per cent, which, after deducting twenty- 
 five for my expenses from the Choctaws, will leave me 
 fifty per cent on them clear of every charge. 
 
 The fur trade from this place has greatly declined 
 within a few years. They formerly shipped peltry and 
 furs to the amount of twenty thousand pounds sterling, 
 but now it does not amount to more than one half of tliat 
 sum. 
 
 The city of Mobile is in latitude 30° 12' north ; it is 
 pretty regular, of an oblong figure, and situated on the 
 west bank of the river of tlie same name. To the north- 
 westward it is in the neighbourhood of marshes, which 
 render the town unhealthy. The inhabitants are afflicted 
 with the intermittent fever, fever and ague, and other 
 complaints common to such places. 
 
 There are in this town many very elega;it houses, w hich 
 are inhabited by Spanish, French, English, and Ameri 
 an gentlemeUo Towards the loM'cr end of the to\\i» 
 
334 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 stands Fort Conde, a regular built fortress, in' which 
 there is a very neat and commodious square of barracks, 
 for the accommodation of officers and soldiers. The town 
 at present contains about three hundred houses, many of 
 which are built after the Spanish fashion. The guns in 
 the fort at Mobile Point, 30 miles from the town, were all 
 ppiked just before the victory of general Jackson. 
 
 One of the principal causes which has probably ope- 
 rated to effect the decline of Mobile, is the obstructions 
 to large vessels coming up to the town, a bar rendering 
 it impossible for them to come nearer than within seven 
 miles. If this obstruction could be removed, I think 
 that the commercial importance of this place would again 
 revive, and we should once more see its streets thronged 
 with merchants. Its situation is well calculated for com- 
 merce, excepting the objection already mentioned, and it 
 is my opinion that with thirty or forty thousand dollars 
 this might be removed, and the inhabitants have secured 
 to them all the advantages which they formerly en- 
 joyed. 
 
 As I was within eighty miles of Pensacola, the capital 
 of West- Florida, I thought it would be advisable for me 
 to visit the place. I accordingly made preparations for 
 that purpose, and my business being soon arranged, I 
 left Mobile on the 4th of January, 1815. Owing to 
 boisterous weather, I did not arrive in Pensacola before 
 late the next day. 
 
 The town of Pensacola is situated on a bay of the gulf 
 of Mexico, which forms a very commodious harbour, 
 where there is plenty of water, and where vessels may 
 lide secure from every wind. The town is of an 
 oblong form, about a mile in length, and a half a mil*^ 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 335 
 
 ill breadth. It contains about two thousand houses, and 
 seven thousand inhabitants. The houses are many of 
 them elegant and spacious. The chimnies are all built' 
 of soft lime-stone, cut in squares, which lasts for cen- 
 turies. The public buildings are mostly built of stone, 
 and are very large and spacious. The town lias much 
 increased of late, and promises soon to become the prin- 
 cipal mart of all the produce which is disposed of in 
 West- Florida. The mercantile business is well attended 
 to, and many merchants have made their fortunes in 
 Pensacola in a few years. 
 
 The exports of Pensacola consist of skins, logwood, 
 <lying stuiFs, and silver dollars, together with sugar, 
 cotton, and indigo, which in 1812 amounted to 240,500 
 dollars. 
 
 The soil of West-Florida is various, according to the 
 different improvements which have been made upon it 
 It is a mixture of sand and black mould, making what is 
 generally termed a grey soil. A considerable part of it, 
 when under cultivation, yields ""^Dod crops of indigo, 
 cotton, corn, or potatoes. The planting of cotton has of 
 late years been much attended to, several planters having 
 turned their indigo plantations into cotton fields. There 
 are two kinds of cotton which flourish very w^ell here, the 
 annual and tlie West- Indian. The former is low and 
 planted every year ; the phlox long, strong, and perfecdy 
 white. The latter is a tall, perennial plant, the stalk 
 somewhat shrubby, several of which rise up from tho 
 root for a number of successive years, the stems of the 
 former year bei^ig killed by the frosts. The balls of the 
 West- India cotton are not quite so large as the other, but 
 the phlox, or wool, is long, extremely fine, silky, anrJ 
 -^vhite, 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 CHAP. XXXV, 
 
 Author goes from Pensacola to the Alabama — Fort 
 Claiborne — Fort Montgomery — Fort Mins — St, Ste- 
 phens — Author starts for the northern part of the 
 United States — Fliiit river — Description of it. 
 
 From Pensacola, I proceeded by land through a pine, 
 barren country, to the Alabama. The distance is about 
 seventy-five miles, and there are no plantations on the 
 roadj although the culture of cotton might be advan- 
 tageously carried on. In many parts the pine grows to 
 a considerable height. It is not our common pine, but 
 like that which is called the long-leafed pine. The shape 
 of the leaf is nearly like that of other pines, but is a yard 
 in length, hanging in large clusters. 
 
 On the 10th of January I arrived on the banks of the 
 Alabama river at Fort Claiborne. The Alabama is 
 formed by the junction of the Coosa and Tallapoosa 
 rivers, at Little Talassee, and runs in a southwesterly di- 
 rection until it meets the Tombigbee. This beautiful 
 river has a gentle current and pure water, and abounds 
 in excellent fish. It is eighty yards wide opposite the 
 fort, which is situated on a high bluff, called the Choctaw 
 bluff, which is about two hundred and fifty feet high, 
 while the bank on the opposite side of the river is not 
 elevated more than two feet above the surface of the wa- 
 ter. ,T'his river frequently overflows, and the country for 
 some distance is occasionally covered widi water, which 
 continues for a considerable length of time* Travellers 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 337 
 
 have, in the month of May, in nine days descended this 
 river from Little Talassee to Mobile bay, the distance of 
 about three hundred and fifty miles. 
 
 The land on this river furnishes a variety of soil, being 
 in some places very rich, and in others just above medi- 
 ocrity. The regular overflowing of the river might be 
 made of much benefit in the> cultivation of rice, for which 
 this country is well calculated. Many valuable planta- 
 tions might here be taken up, which, with suitable care 
 and attention, would soon render the owners independent. 
 
 From Fort Claiborne I went to Fort Montgomery, 
 which is distant about forty-five miles. This fort was 
 built after the massacre at Fort Mins, which was perpe- 
 trated by the Musaogulge confederacy, where it is said 
 two hundred and fifty men, women, and children, lost 
 their liveSo The ruins of Fort Mins are about two miles 
 distant, it having been burnt to the ground. The site 
 of Fort Montgomery is superior in point of situation, it 
 having a more commanding view, and not being liable 
 to be surrounded. The bones of the unfortunate suffer- 
 ers at Fort Mins are still in a great measure unburied, and 
 exposed to public view ; those which have been buried 
 appear to have been dug up again by wild beasts, or 
 some others. 
 
 At sunrise I went, forward, crossed the Alabama, and 
 proceeded by the way of the Cut-off* to St. Stephens, 
 which is forty-five miles distant from Fort Montgomery. 
 The travelling was very good, and the weather agreeable 
 for the time of the year, it being what may be termed 
 the rainy season, as scarcely a day passed without there 
 being some rain, and very few without its being more or 
 less cloudy. 
 
338 KEH'S TRAVELS. 
 
 On my arrival at St. Stephens I made preparations fgr 
 returning to the northern parts of the United States, and 
 for that purpose I sold my horse, which had become 
 poor and not very fit for the journey, and purchased an- 
 other, which was an excellent sound bodied horse, for 
 which I had to pay one hundred and sLi^ty dollars. Good 
 horses are scarce in St. Stephens, and generally high ; 
 the reason is that very few horses will live there, owing 
 to a disease which is called \ht fatehu^ of which great 
 numbers die every year. 
 
 On the morning of the 8th of February, 1815, 1 cross- 
 ed tlie Tombigbee, and rode through a level, and for the 
 most part a fertile country. The soil was of a rich black 
 loam, and would yield an abundant crop of tobacco or 
 indigo, if put in proper cultivation. 
 
 Twenty-five miles from St. Stephens I crossed the 
 Alabama, which is here about eighty yards broad, and 
 encamped for the night in a fertile and well watered 
 plain. The evening was remarkably fine, and although 
 at a season of the year when Flora presents but few of her 
 gifts to our view, yet the landscape was agreeably inter- 
 spersed with evergreens, which rendered the scenery fine 
 beyond description. 
 
 The next morning I proceeded on my journey, and 
 about nine o'clock entered the wilderness, and proceeded 
 tlirough thick woods of hickory, walnut, buck-eye, and 
 some pines. The road was in many places much choked 
 with underwood, which rendered the travelling very diffi- 
 cult. At night I encamped, having come about thirty- 
 five miles. 
 
 I was well armed and equipped, having a pair of 
 good pistols, and a rifle which was as good as could be 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 339 
 
 purchased in St. Stephens. I had fire- works with me, 
 and my usual method of proceeding was to ride a few 
 miles in the morning, and then to cook my breakfast, at 
 the same time laying in a sufficiency for dinner ; this 
 \vould last me till I encamped for the night, when I again 
 made a meal. I had with me tea and coffee, and a small 
 kettle, and whenever my journey had been unusually fa- 
 tiguing, I generally made either tea or coffee, and this, 
 with a little brandy, never failed to restore me by the 
 next morning. 
 
 In the morning I proceeded on my route, and about 
 eight o'clock crossed Limestone creek. The country 
 through which I rode was uniformly dull, being an entire 
 forest, without any thing to divert the attention. At 
 dark I encamped by the side of a small rivulet, which 
 afforded good water. 
 
 The evening was wild and gloomy, the clouds were 
 thick, black, and heavy, and the thunder was heard in 
 distant murmurs and echoed among the hills. The 
 weather was very cold, and my blanket was scarcely suf- 
 ficient to protect me from the inclemency of the weather. 
 The wolves had now become very troublesome, and I was 
 obliged to keep a large fire to protect me fi'om their 
 fury. 
 
 At daylight I proceeded on, the weatiier being cloudy 
 and cold. I passed a place where a fire had lately been 
 extinguished, which I judged to have been kindled b}' 
 some Indian hunters. I looked for them all day, but 
 without meeting any. I encamped at dark in a place 
 which had much the appearance of a fort. The night 
 ^vas very stormy and disagreeable, and the ran fell in con 
 
340 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 siderable quantities and rendered my lodging truly un<^ 
 comfortabe. 
 
 The next day it continued to rain with as much fury 
 as the preceding night, but nevertheless I proceeded for- 
 ward, and about four o'clock entered a still thicker part 
 of the forest, which was almost entirely composed of 
 pines nearly ninety feet in height. The gloom of the sur- 
 rounding forest, the stormy aspect of the weather, and 
 the distant howling of wild beasts, contributed not a lit- 
 tle to render my reflections melancholy and unpleasant. 
 At an early hour I encamped in a thick cluster of trees, 
 but had to keep a fire continually burning at a short 
 distance, on the outside of the cluster. 
 
 Early the next morning I started forward, the weather 
 having become more pleasant, although not entirely 
 clear. About noon I crossed the Chatabachi river, which 
 was here about twenty yards broad ; the country now 
 became more clear, and the travelling more pleasant. In 
 the afternoon I passed an Indian camp of about a dozen 
 wigwams, and understood the party liad been catching 
 fish, of which they had a considerable quantity. I en- 
 camped in the evening, after having come thirty-five 
 miles. 
 
 The next morning I proceeded forward through a fine 
 country, which had the most agreeable and pleasant ap- 
 pearance. Ai)out noon I crossed Flint river, which is 
 here about thirty yards wide. It is a considerable river, 
 and takes its rise in Georgia, in the country of the Creek 
 Indians, and, running a south, and then a southwesterly 
 course, joins the Apalachicola at its entrance into Flori- 
 da. It has a gentle current, and is about fifteen f«?et 
 deep. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 341 
 
 The country lying on this river has every ' appearance 
 of being as delightful and fruitful a region as any in 
 the United States. It is well calculated for every branch 
 of agriculture, and offers an uninterrupted navigation to 
 the bay of Mexico and the Atlantic ocean, and thence to 
 jthe West-India islands and all parts of the world. 
 
 CHAP. XXX VL 
 
 Author proceeds on his journey — Fort Hawkins — Re- 
 mains of the ingenuity of the Indians — Milledgeville — 
 Augusta — Manner in whicH a Georgia planter spends 
 his time. 
 
 At night I put up at colonel Hawkins's, where I was 
 well received. This gentleman had a fine plantation, and 
 his family consisted of himself, his wife, and two chil- 
 dren. 
 
 In the morning I went forward, and at eight o'clock 
 passed Fort Hawkins, which was garrisoned by about 
 three hundred soldiers, and under the command of the 
 gentleman who so kindly entertained me the preceding 
 night. The country is here more open, and the soil 
 good and fertile. 
 
 At noon I crossed the Oakmulgee, which is a branch 
 of the beautiful Alatamaha river ; at the place where I 
 crossed it, it was about three hundred and fifty yards 
 
342 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 wide. The country on the east side of the river is very- 
 rich and fertile, and is called the Oakmulgee fields just 
 above the confluence of the Oconee with this river. 
 
 On this river there are many remains of the ingenuity 
 and grandeur of the aboriginal inhabitants, which equal 
 any thing tliat has yet been seen of their work. The 
 ruins of a capital town are still to be seen, which was 
 laid out on a regular and elegant plan ; it was of an exact 
 square, the streets running so as to intersect each other 
 at right angles, and forming three large squares. The 
 buildings were of a better construction than those now 
 erected by the Indians, and appear to have been very 
 convenient. Around three of the public squares are tlie 
 remains of terraces, which appear to have been lightly, 
 and even elegantly constructed. In the neighbourhood 
 of the town are several artificial hills, which have been 
 raised, some to the height of sixty feet, and appear to have 
 been thrown up with considerable labour. 
 
 In the evening I stopped at the house of a gentleman 
 who entertained me with much hospitality. The coun- 
 try through which I rode this day was more open and 
 fertile than any I had before seen, and although not very 
 thickly settled, furnishes a number of good sites for 
 plantations. 
 
 At five o'clock the next morning I posted on forMik 
 ledgeville, which was forty-five miles distant. Planta- 
 tions were scattered more thickly along the road, and ma- 
 ny of the houses were very neat and convenient. The 
 day was very warm and pleasant for the season, and the 
 travelling very good. At sunset I crossed Fishing creek, 
 and about seven o'clock arrived in Milledgeville. 
 
 Milledgeville is the seat of government for the state of 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 343 
 
 Georgia, and is a well built and flourishing town, contain- 
 ing about five hundred houses and two thousand inhab- 
 itants ; many of the houses are well built, large, and 
 spacious. There is an elegant state-house erected, in 
 which are most of the ofiices for transacting public busi- 
 ness. A court-house has likewise been erected in the 
 town, in which the district and county court business is 
 transacted. 
 
 The penal code for the punishment of criminals has for- 
 merly been very severe in Georgia ; branding, whipping, and 
 even death being the consequence of committing larcenies, 
 and other crimes of that nature. But much to the honour 
 of the state legislature, they have lately abrogated that 
 law, and made provision for the erection of a state prison. 
 The prison is now erecting in this town ; it is of brick, 
 and has the appearance of being an elegant and commo- 
 dious building. 
 
 In the morning I had a specimen of that republican 
 equality which may with propriety be considered as the 
 national characteristic of the United States. A man 
 whose property and possessions ^vere very extensive, had 
 in a variety of ways injured a black man, who was free, 
 and had never done him any injury. The man com- 
 plained to the legal authority, who immediately sum- 
 ^noned the gentleman into their presence ; and proof 
 being adduced sufficient to substantiate the charge, he 
 was severely reprimanded, fined, and dismissed. I 
 afterwards understood that he was notorious for his 
 oppression of the blacks, and was justly held in contempt 
 by all those who had any pretensions to humanity or 
 benevolence. 
 
 About 12 o'clock I left Milledgevillc, and rrossed the 
 
344 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 Alconey ferry, which is here three hundred yards wide, 
 I put up at the house of Mr Hopewell, who was very 
 obliging. He informed me that land in and about that 
 place had risen very much since the legislature estab° 
 lished Milledgeville as the seat of government, and there 
 was a probability of its increasing in value. 
 
 In the morning my kind host would not allow me to 
 depart till after breakfast, which detained me till after 
 7 o'clock. About 12 o'clock I passed some iron works 
 which were not very large, but flourishing. At 3 
 o'clock I crossed the creek, called Rocky creek, which is 
 here about three yards wide, and abounds with fish. At 
 dark I put up at the house of Mr. O'Neal, a gentleman 
 who had emigrated from Ireland. He owned an extensive 
 plantation, and seemed to be very contented. 
 
 The climate in this part of the state is pure and healthy, 
 and the inhabitants have a more wholesome and agreeable 
 countenance than those who reside in the lower parts of 
 the state, or near the seaboard. The soil is a rich black 
 loam, and raises good crops of wheat of tobacco, although 
 the former article k not much attended to, cotton being 
 considered of more importance, and the staple commodity 
 of the state. 
 
 After breakfast I continued my journey. The day 
 was cloudy, and the weather unpleasant ; the ther- 
 mometer stood at 41°. I passed many fine plantations, 
 which were distant from one to two miles on the roado 
 The culture of sugar cane has begun to engage the 
 attention of some planters, and from experiments which 
 have been made, it promises to do well. Could one half 
 of the plantations which are now in cotton fields be turned 
 to the cultivation of sugar, the United States would soon 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 345 
 
 become independent of those large supplies which we 
 receive from the West- Indies, and the price of this ne- 
 cessary article would be reduced more than fifty per cent. 
 I put up at the house of a Mr. Reynolds, where I had 
 good accommodations. 
 
 In the morning I went forward with an intention of 
 reaching Augusta in the course of the day, which I found 
 distant thirty-six miles. The weather was very cold, 
 and one of my horse's shoes becoming loose, I stopped 
 at a blacksmith's to get it put on. He was the only one 
 of that profession within many miles, and informed me 
 he had an extensive run of business. He had within five 
 years purchased an hundred acres of land, which he had 
 been enabled to pay for solely from the profits arising 
 from his work. At four o'clock I reached Augusta, and 
 put up at the Globe tavern, where I found good accom- 
 modations. 
 
 Augusta was formerly the seat of government for the 
 state of Georgia, and is a flourishing town. It is situated 
 on the southwest bank of the Savannah river, which is 
 here about five hundred yards wide, and has a popula- 
 tion of three thousand souls. The town is on a large 
 plain, which is fertile and good land, and at the foot of 
 the first falls in the river, where, in a dry season, the wa- 
 ter falls four or five feet. It is one hundred and thirt}' 
 miles distant from Savannah, and one hundred and forty- 
 five from the sea. 
 
 The next morning I left Augusta, and crossed the 
 bridge which had lately been erected. I proceeded to 
 Mr. Bardet's to breakfast, who was a gentleman of much 
 information and politeness ; he was one of those who 
 in the revolutionary war were attached to general Sump 
 
346 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 ter's brigade, and related many interesting anecdotes of 
 that officer. 
 
 The soil was here dry and sandy, and in my opinion 
 not generally so good as that which I had passsed forty 
 or fifty miles back, although there are many spots as 
 fertile as any in the state. 
 
 The day was very cold, and the thermometer stood at 
 35° at sunset. I put up at Mr. Lee's, where I found a 
 number of persons who were going to different parts of 
 the state. We had good accommodations, and spent 
 the evening very agreeably^ 
 
 The Georgians are polite, hospitable, and in all their 
 dealings fair and honourable ; they are, however, much 
 given to dissipation, particularly the wealthy part of the 
 population, who attend to no business, and live a life of 
 indolence and voluptuousness. The following descrip- 
 tion of the manner in wliich tliey spend their time, has 
 already been published, but is thought worthy of inser-^ 
 tion here. 
 
 " About six in the morning he quits his bed, and or- 
 ders his horse to be got ready ; he then swallows a dram 
 of bitters, to prevent the ill effects of the early fog, and 
 sets out for a tour upon his plantation. If he sees any 
 of his slaves idle, he inquires the cause ; if sickness be 
 alleged, he shuts them up in the sick -house, wher^ 
 they are bled, blistered, or drenched, till they are dead, 
 or so weak as to be scarcely able to stand. If no reason^ 
 is assigned, he applies his rattan to the slave's naked back, 
 and obliges him instantly to decamp. After examining 
 into the welflire of the poultry, hogs, cattle, &c. about 
 the hour of eight he returns to breakfast, and is receiver! 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 347 
 
 by a whole troop of young negroes in a primitive state x)f 
 nakedness. 
 
 " After eating his breakfast he again mounts a fresh 
 •horse, rides to the first public house, plays at cards, 
 makes bargains, appoints days for horse races or boxing 
 matches, and about the hour of four returns to dinner, 
 bringing with him a number of his friends. If the com- 
 pany be agreeable he seldom rises from table before sun- 
 set. If the weather is fair, after an early supper they set 
 out (preceded by a negro who carries a few bottles of 
 brandy and a large fire) for the purpose of shooting deer. 
 The animals, being attracted by the blaze of light, ^tand 
 still with their eyes fixed upon it until they are shot. 
 
 " About midnight they return, according to luck, 
 with or without game ; their shins and faces sadly 
 scratched, and themselves fit for nothing but to be put 
 to bed. This is tlie general routine of existence among 
 such of the Georgians as live in the more retired and 
 woody parts of the state. Trade is principally managed 
 by the overseers and factors. 
 
 CHAP. XXXVII. 
 
 Ride to Columbia — Camden — Very bad weather — Pedee 
 river — Fayetteville — Description of 1 1. 
 
 In the morning I started, accompanied by a gentlemaii 
 who was going to Columbia, in the state of South- 
 Carolina. As this was my route, I had his company all 
 
348 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 the way. We passed through a level country, which 
 was well watered, and a number of plantations were scat- 
 tered over it about half a mile from the road. In the 
 evening ^ve put up at Mr. King's, where we were well 
 entertained. 
 
 We rose early in the morning and proceeded through 
 a level plain, and about eight o'clock we crossed the 
 Congaree river. This is a considerable river of South - 
 Carolina, and is formed by the junction of Broad and 
 Saluda rivers. It is about three hundred yards wide 
 at Columbia, where we crossed it, which town is situated 
 on the east side of the river. 
 
 The town of Columbia is situated in Kershaw county, 
 Camden district, and is the seat of government for South- 
 Carolina. It contains about five hundred houses and 
 three thousand inhabitants ; the streets are regular and 
 well laid out, and many of the houses are elegant. The 
 public offices are kept here, though in some manner di- 
 vided for the accommodation of the inhabitants, and a 
 branch is still retained in Charleston. Columbia has a 
 court-house and jail, and is inhabited by wealthy and re- 
 spectable people. 
 
 Bacchus, the mirth -inspiring friend, is much respected 
 in this place ; and no objection can be made to the sway 
 of so cheering an auxiliary, when limited by prudence 
 and moderation. But as this seldom happens, the ob- 
 jections against these customs have become serious and 
 weighty. It is a species of luxury the most dangerous, 
 because leading directly to all others ; but it is a species 
 for which the Carolinians are most excusable. With- 
 out the assistance of vvine, in all warm climates, the mind 
 becomes enervated, the spirit languid, and the imagina 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 349 
 
 tion barren. It is known to all physicians that wine, by 
 its tonic quality, obviates debility produced by cUmate ; 
 and that the effects of putrid miasmatia are destroyed by 
 its antiseptic qualities. Hence it is, in all probability, 
 that the inliabitants of this state are more generally. addict- 
 ed to the indulgencies of the botde than those of the 
 northern states. 
 
 Dissolute pleasures, and luxury of every kind, form a 
 distinguishing feature in the character of the Carolinians. 
 I censure not the profusion of their tables, it is the profu- 
 sion of heaven ; but to the pleasures of the table they are 
 too much addicted, and they waste too much of that 
 time in sensual indulgence, which they might improve to 
 the advantage of society. 
 
 The morning ^vas stormy with showers of rain, which 
 detained me in town tiir after breakfast. About nine 
 o'clock it cleared up, and I proceeded on my journey. I 
 crossed the bridge at Spear's creek, and after travelling 
 ten miles took dinner with a gentleman who had recently 
 suffered considerably by fire, which had destroyed his 
 out-houses. He entertained me with great hospitality, 
 and appeared to be a man of much information. At night 
 I an'ived in Camden, which is about thirty-five miles 
 distant from Columbia, 
 
 Camden is a thriving and healthy town in Kersha\\ 
 county, and the chief town of Camden district. It is 
 regularly laid out, and contains about eight hundred and 
 twenty houses, some of which are built of brick and ve- 
 ry handsome. It stands on the east side of the Wateree 
 river, which enables the inhabitants to carry on- a brisk 
 trade, and contributes not a little to its increase. Most 
 T^f the produce of the bnck rountry here finds a readv 
 
350 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 market. This towii was the scene of two memorable 
 engagements during the revolutionary war : the first on 
 the 16th of August, 1780, between general Gates and 
 lord Cornwallis, in which the hero of Saratoga suffered a 
 defeat. The following year another battle was fought 
 between general Green and lord Kawdon, in which there 
 was one hundred and twenty-six Americans killed, and 
 one hundred taken prisoners, while the killed and wound- 
 ed of the British amounted to one hundred. Lord Raw- 
 don at this time sallied out of the town, in which he had 
 entrenched himself, and attacked the American camp in 
 three places ; he however failed of his principal object, 
 and in a few days evacuated the town. 
 
 There is in this town an Episcopal church, besides a 
 court-house and jail, and the public offices for the county. 
 The court for the district of Camden sit-s here twice in 
 a year. 
 
 The next morning it stormed, and a considerable falF 
 of snow had taken place during the night. I rode about 
 eight miles, when I stopped and took breakfast with an 
 elderly gentleman, whose grandmother sat at the table. 
 This woman told me she was ninety- six years of age, 
 and her eye sight was so good that she could read with- 
 out spectacles. I mention this to prove that South- 
 Carolina is not so unhealthy as has been- generally repre- 
 sented, and that instances of longevity are as common 
 here as in many other states. 
 
 The storm continuing to increase, I was compelled to 
 put up, and about two o'clock stopped at the house of a 
 Mr. Debruls, where I was well entertained. The roads 
 had become quite muddy, which rendered the travelling 
 unpleasant. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 351 
 
 The next morning the violence of the storm had in 
 some measure abated, but it still continued to rain, and 
 tlie weather was so cold that it froze considerably. The 
 roads had now become very bad, and the travelling disa- 
 greeable. The thermometer stood at 34° when I start- 
 ed, and the rain froze as fast as it fell. After travelling 
 about eight miles I crossed Wood creek, which is about 
 twelve yards wide, and ten miles from thence came to 
 Lynche's creek, which I had much difficulty in crossing, as 
 the late rain had swelled the creek much beyond its usu- 
 al dimensions, and the quantities of drift-w ood made the 
 passing of it dangerous. About dark I put up at Mrs, 
 Winn's, where I was very well entertained. 
 
 The next morning the weather was extremely cold, the 
 wind being from the northwest. At 10 o'clock I crossed 
 West creek, and proceeded through a level and fertile 
 country, which produced plentiful crops of rice, tobacco^ 
 and cotton. This part of the country is healthy, the air 
 being pure and salubrious in the summer months. It is 
 much resorted to by invalids from the lower parts of the 
 state. Towards 3 o'clock the weather became stormy 
 and disagreeable, which induced me to put up at the 
 house of Mrs. Cruger, a widow lady, who entertained 
 me with much hospitality. 
 
 In the morning I rode forward through a country very 
 similar to what I passed yesterday, and six miles from 
 Mrs. Cruger's crossed the Pedee river. This river has its 
 rise in North- Carolina, where it is called Yadkin river. 
 It receives the waters of Lynche's creek, Little PedeCp 
 and Black river. The land on the borders of this river 
 is good, and there are many valuable plantations situated, 
 ''vhich are of 8:reat wealth to the owners. I went fonvard 
 
52 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 about fourteen miles, and stopped at the house of a Mr, 
 Low, who treated me with great poHteness. 
 
 In the morning I went forward ten miles, and after 
 crossing Lunbee river, proceeded on a good road through 
 a country of a rich soil. The land rises from the north- 
 east into small hills, which are covered with a growth of 
 timber which is large, and in many places very thick. 
 In the evening I put up at Mr. M'May's, having rode 
 about thirty-five miles. 
 
 I started very early, and rode ten miles to breakfast 
 -with a gentleman to whom I had a letter. He informed 
 me that the soil about here was not the richest, although 
 there were many spots which yielded large and good 
 crops. 
 
 The complexion of the inhabitants now began to ac=. 
 quire that yellow sickly cast which is so common to those 
 who reside in the neighbourhood of marshes and swamps, 
 and 'many of the children had not tlie appearance of that 
 cleanliness which is the sure preservative of health. I 
 stopped at the house of a woman to enquire the way, and 
 as 1 rode up to the door was saluted with the barking of 
 dogs, the squalling of the pigs, and the vociferating lungs 
 of about a dozen children who bawled out mamma, 
 mamma, here's a man, and were ready to jump out of 
 their skins. 
 
 This is only to be accounted for by a defect in their 
 education ; the southern states are much behind the 
 northern and eastern states in this particular. General 
 information is more equally diffused in the latter states, 
 and it is a rare thing to find a child of seven years old that 
 cannot read. The southern states being divided into 
 plantations, do not afford that easy communication which 
 
ItER'S TRAVELS. 3S3 
 
 IS to be found where the country is agreeably chequered 
 with towns and villages. Those, however, who reside in 
 large towns, or in the neighbourhood of schools, are gen- 
 erally as anxious about the improvement of their children 
 as any others. 
 
 In the evening I arrived at Fayetteville,' in North- 
 Carolina, having rode thirty-three miles. My horse had 
 become considerably fatigued, and seemed ready to give 
 out, I therefore deemed it advisable to remain here a few 
 days. I found the accommodations good at Mr. Duf- 
 ling's, who _gave me all the information in his power of 
 the town and its vicinity. 
 
 Fayetteville is pleasantly situated on the west side of the 
 northwest branch of Cape Fear river, nearly at the head 
 of navigation, large vessels coming no higher than Wil- 
 miqgton, which is one hundred miles distant. It is the 
 seat of justice for the county of Cumberland, and Fay- 
 etteville district. The principal part of the town is 
 situated about a mile from the river. The town is regu- 
 larly laid out, and contains some very elegant brick 
 buildings, and has four thousand five hundred inhabitants. 
 It has two handsome edifices for the meeting of district 
 and county courts, and the meeting of town officers, 
 citizenSj &c. on public occasions. The Freemason's 
 lodge is a large and handsome building, constructed at 
 the expense of the lodge. Some of the principal streets 
 are very spacious, being one hundred feet wide. 
 
 Near the banks of the river are several tobacco ware- 
 houses which have received in one year eight fliousand 
 hogsheads of tobacco, said to be equal in quality to that 
 which is shipped from Petersburgh. Here are four mills, 
 which supply the neighbourhood with corn- meal ; three 
 
 45 
 
354 KER'S TBAA^ELS. 
 
 distilleries for ardent spirits, and four breweries, besides 
 several extensive tanyards, which do considerable bu- 
 siness. 
 
 The trade from this town to Wilmington is very con- 
 siderable. Large quantities of tobacco, wheat, flour, 
 beef, pork, flax-seed, hemp, cotton, butter, lumber, 
 staves, naval stores, &c. are annually sent down. 
 
 Lumber and naval stores may be considered as the 
 staple commodities of this state. They are derived from 
 the pitch pine, which is a tall, handsome tree, much su- 
 perior to the pitch pine of the northern states. From this 
 tree are made pitch, tar, rosin, and lumber, which to- 
 gether constitute one half of the exports of -the whole 
 state. 
 
 CHAP. XXXVIIL 
 
 bescription of the country^ soil, climate, ^c. of North- 
 Carolina — Manner in which the inhabitants spend their 
 time. 
 
 The western, hilly parts of North- Carolina, are as healthy 
 as any part of the United States. The country is fertile, 
 and abounds with springs and rivulets of pure water. 
 Though the days are generally very warm in summer, 
 yet the mornings and evenings are cooled and refreshed 
 with breezes. The autumns are very pleasant, both in 
 regard to the temperature and serenity of the weather 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 355 
 
 and the richness and variety of the vegetable productions 
 which the season affords. 
 
 The inhabitants of the flat country near the seacoast, 
 during the summer and autumn, are subject to inter- 
 mitting complaints, which frequently prove fatal, and 
 also to bilious and nervous symptoms. These fevers are 
 not dangerous to the residents who are temperate, nor to 
 strangers who are prudent. They however, if suffered 
 to continue for any lengdi of time, bring on other disor- 
 ders, which greatly impair the vigour of the mind, debili- 
 tate the constitution, and terminate in death. The coun- 
 tenances of persons living in the flat country, at this sea- 
 son of the year assume a pale yellow cast, occasioned by 
 the prevalence of bilious symptoms. 
 
 It has been observed that more of the inhabitants, es- 
 pecially of the men, die during the winter by pleurisies 
 and peripneumonies, than in the warm months by bilious 
 complaints. These pleurisies are brought on by intem- 
 perance, and by an imprudent exposure to the weather. 
 Were the inhabitants prudent and cautious in these re- 
 spects, it has been alleged,, and witli some degree of 
 probability, that they might in a great measure escape the 
 danger of these fatal diseases. The wearing of flannel 
 next to the skin during the winter, is reckoned an excel- 
 lent preventative of the diseases incident to this cli- 
 mate. 
 
 The inhabitants of this state are mostly planters, and 
 live at the distance of fi^om half a mile to three or foiu' 
 miles from each otiier, on their plantations. They have 
 a plentiful country, and a natural fondness for society, 
 which renders them hospitable to strangers. 
 
 The general topics of conversation among the men, 
 
356 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 when cards, the bottle, and occurrences of the day do not 
 interfere, are the negroes, the prices of indigo, rice, to- 
 bacco, &c. Less attention and respect are paid to the 
 ^vomen here, than in many other parts of the United 
 States. It has been mentioned by some that respect for 
 the women generally keeps pace with civilization, and 
 that the increase of civilization may be estimated by the 
 respect which is paid by husbands to their wives, and by 
 young men to the young women. ' 
 
 Temperance and industry are not to be reckoned 
 among the virtues of the North- Carolinians. The time 
 which they waste in drinking, idling, and gambling, 
 leaves them very little opportunity to improve their plan- 
 tations or their minds ; the improvement of the former is 
 left to their overseers and negroes, and that of the latter 
 is too often neglected. If the time which is wasted was 
 spent in cultivating the soil and treasuring up knowledge, 
 they might be both wealthy and learned, for they have a 
 productive country, and are by no means destitute of 
 genius. 
 
 This, it is to be observed, is given as the general 
 character of the planters in a body : there are many ex- 
 ceptions to this general estimate, men who are eminent 
 for their learning and virtue ; but in general, the citizens 
 of North- Carolina who are not emplo) ed in better busi- 
 ness, spend their time in drinking, gaming, cock-fightings 
 or horse-racing. 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 357 
 
 CHAP. XXXIX. 
 
 Author takes the stage for TVilmington — Conversation 
 between the passengers —Elizabethtown — Description 
 of the country — PFibnington, N, C. — Depar^ture for 
 Philadelphia — Good accommodations — Arrival at JVil- 
 jningtony Del, — Take stage for Philadelphia. 
 
 At Fayetteville I sold my horse, determining to take 
 the stage for Wilmington, from which place I expected 
 to find a ready conveyance by water to Philadelphia. 
 
 About twelve o'clock the stage arrived at Fayetteville, 
 but was so crowded with, passengers that it was impossi- 
 ble for me to carry my baggage, or find room enough for 
 myself to sit down ; I therefore resigned my baggage to 
 the care of a boatman, who was to descend the river the 
 jiext day, and went forward in the stage. 
 
 The stage contained eight passengers besides myself 
 and the driver. The greatest part of them were gentle- 
 men ^vte were going to Wilmington for the purpo&e of 
 selling tobacco and other productions of their plantations, 
 and as most of them were men of property, and of some 
 mfluence in the part of the country where they belonged, 
 I paid a little attention to their conversation. 
 
 The first one which broke silence after I got into tlie 
 stage was an elderly gentleman, who observed, in reply 
 to some conversation which had before passed, " 1 hope, 
 sir, you will allow that we have at least gained respecta- 
 bility by the war, that our national cliaracter has been 
 raised considerably in the estimation of foreign powers.'- 
 
358 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 " No sir," replied the gentleman to whom this was ad- 
 dressed, " I cannot believe that we have gained any re- 
 spectability, or raised ourselves in the estimation of for- 
 eign powers, by declaring war against a power which was 
 contending for the liberties of the world, and which had, 
 by the number of able negociators she had sent here, en- 
 deavoured to make peace on honourable terms." 
 
 " Very true," observed another gentleman, " and our 
 government is deserving of censure for declaring war 
 against a nation whose resources were so ample, and 
 whose long experience both by land and sea rendered 
 them almost invincible. We ought to have been glad to 
 have come upon any terms sooner than to have attempt- 
 ed such a thing." 
 
 " So, sir," said a gentleman who had hitherto remain- 
 ed silent, " because a nation is powerful, you would 
 tamely submit your liberties to be trampled upon, and 
 yourself to be considered as tributary to a government 
 which is notorious for its ambition, and deride your ow^n 
 government because it had the patriotism to repel the 
 aggressions of such a powerful marauder. Had we been 
 unfortunate during this war, there might have been some 
 excuse for the grumbling of many gentlemen, and the 
 preaching up of the invincibility of the British army and 
 navy ; but the brilliant victories which our American 
 tars have obtained over British seamen who have been 
 inured by practice, with the success of our raw militia 
 under generals Brown, Jackson, and others, fully prove 
 that we are not so vastly inferior as the nick-named peace 
 party would endeavour to make us believe." 
 
 The gentleman who had so ably defended the valour 
 G,f Great- Britain, havuig no answer immediately at hand, 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 359 
 
 temained silent, and our driving up to the inn at Eliza- 
 bethtowai put an end to the conversation. 
 ' Elizabethtovvn, where we put up for the nighty is a 
 small place in Bladen county, about forty -one' miles from 
 Fayetteville, and fifty -five from Wilmington. It has a 
 few handsome buildings, a court-house which is a con- 
 venient building, and a gaol. The accommodations at 
 Mr. Campbell's were very good. 
 
 In the morning, at daylight, we proceeded. The 
 travelling was very good, but our horses were indeed 
 miserable. They were generally composed of brokeix 
 down creatures which had been rendered unfit for use, 
 and then turned over to go in the stages. This is not the 
 case in the northern states, where there are a number of 
 opposition stages, which make it the interest of the pro- 
 prietors to provide good horses and careful drivers. 
 
 The country through which we passed this day was 
 sandy, and appeared to be of a poor soil. The planta- 
 tions had not that neat appearance which they have in the 
 hilly parts of the country. 
 
 Eighteen miles distant from Elizabethtown, we stopped 
 to breakfast at Mr. M'Gilvary's. At this house I saw a 
 lady who was termed the beauty of North- Carolina. She 
 was on her way to the upper parts of the country for her 
 health, which was on the decline. Her form was truly 
 elegant, and her face might with truth be said to be the 
 model of perfection. Although robbed of that bloom 
 which gives animation to the countenance, her features 
 derived an interesting expression fi*om their paleness, 
 which it was impossible for any one to behold without 
 admiration. The charms of her person, however, were 
 c-clipsed by the charms of her mind. Her expressioi^ 
 
360 KER^S TRAVELS. 
 
 was elegant, and her politeness truly unaffected. She: 
 conversed with ease on many subjects, and seemed to 
 possess that information which is not generally afforded 
 to her sex, and which the time devoted to the toilet 
 almost always excludes. 
 
 About three o'clock we arrived in Wilmington, and 
 put up at a house where we had excellent accommoda- 
 tions. I was informed by the landlord that the brig 
 Pioughboy, which had superior accommodations, woiild 
 in three days sail for Philadelphia, and that the captain of 
 the brig would be at the tavern in a short time. He soon 
 called, and I engaged a passage for Philadelphia. 
 
 Wilmington, the capital of Wilmington district, is 
 ,situated on the east side of the eastern branch of Cape 
 Fear river, and is thirty- four miles distant from the sea» 
 It is pleasantly situated, and contains about four hundred 
 houses, many of which are very handsome. There is a 
 handsome court-house, and other public buildings, in 
 which most of the district business is transacted. There 
 IS also an elegant Episcopal church, and some other 
 houses for public worship. 
 
 This to\vn carries on a considerable trade with the 
 West- Indies, and with the middle and eastern states. 
 The exports for the year 1812 amounted to 200,538 dol- 
 lars, above one half of which consisted of lumber and 
 naval stores. They export from this place tar, pitch, 
 turpentine, rosin, Indian corn, boards, scantling, staves, 
 shingleSj furs, tobacco, pork^ lard, tallow, beeswax, gcc. ; 
 and they receive from the northern states flour, cheese, 
 cider, apples, potatoes, iron wares, cabinet wares, hats, 
 and dry goods of every kind. 
 
 It is no uncommon thing for a planter in this state to 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 361 
 
 inark from five hundred to one thousand calves in a 
 year. After this no further attention is paid to them un- 
 til they are fit for slaughter. Their pork is raised with 
 as little trouble, though from being fed on acorns it is apt 
 to become oily unless hardened with corn. 
 
 The captain of the Ploughboy was detained by contrary 
 winds and unsettled business until five days after my ar- 
 rival in Wilmington ; during which time a number of 
 passengers arrived, which promised to render the passage 
 very agreeable. i 
 
 Early onjthe morning of the fifth day after my arrivajy 
 the captain informed me that he should be ready to start 
 in the afternoon of that day. My things were soon ar- 
 ranged and put on board the vessel, and I waited with 
 impatience for the time of our departure. About four 
 o'clock we cleared from the wharf, and proceeded out of 
 the river under easy sail. 
 
 The accommodations of the Ploughboy were of a su- 
 perior kind, every attention having been paid by the 
 captain to procure good servants, and such provision as 
 would be agreeable to passengers. Those persons who 
 wish to go on to the northward by the way of Philadel- 
 phia, would find it advantageous to go to Wilmington 
 and from thence to proceed by water, as the conveyance 
 is not only the cheapest, but the best which can be pro- 
 cured. 
 
 There were about eighteen passengers on board the 
 Ploughboy, five of whom were ladies. The gentlemen 
 were principally merchants who had been making pur- 
 chases at the southward, and their company was very 
 agreeable and entertaining. 
 
 The weather was remarkably fine, and we were fa- 
 
 46 
 
362 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 voured with a good wind which carried us along at the 
 rate of seven miles an hour. 
 
 About dark we passed Brunswick, which is situated 
 on the west side of Cape Fear river, and was formerly 
 the best built town in the state. It is seventeen miles 
 distant from Wilmington. Formerly it carried on con- 
 siderable trade, and was the seat of government ; at pres- 
 ent there are but few houses inhabited. 
 
 The second day after our departure from Wilmington 
 tve crossed Cape Hatteras straits,^ which are sometimes 
 very dangerous, and have proved the ruin of many fine 
 vessels, and the bankruptcy of their owners. This 
 shoal has been accurately laid down by a number of skil- 
 ful navigators ; but experience demonstrates that the 
 strong cun*ents hereabouts, which are only the counter- 
 currents of the gulf stream, shift the sands, and cause 
 them to be continually varying their position. 
 
 At present the out shoals, which lie about fourteen 
 miles southwest of the cape, are but of five or six acres 
 in extent, and where they are really dangerous to vessels 
 of moderate draught, not more than half that number of 
 acres. On the shoalest part of these there is at low w^ater 
 about ten feet, and here at times the ocean breaks in a 
 tremendous manner, spouting as it w^ere to the clouds, 
 from the violent agitation of the gulf stream, which touch- 
 es the eastern edge of tlie banks, from whence the de- 
 clivity is sudden, from ten fathoms to no soundings. In 
 moderate weather, however, these shoals may be passed 
 over at full tide, if necessary, without much danger, by 
 vessels not drawing more than eight, nine, or ten feet of 
 water. 
 
 On the sixth day after our departure from the mouti: 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 363 
 
 of the river, we arrived at the capes of Delaware and the 
 next day we arrived opposite to Wihnington, which has 
 a ^ery handsome appearance from the water. Most of 
 the water and Fovision for vessels bound to fore.ga 
 ports are here taken on board. As the wind was unfair 
 I indeed it most expeditious to go on shore, and found 
 that a majority of the passengers were of the same opm- 
 
 '""riie town of Wilmington is the most considerable in 
 the state of I>elaware, and derives considerable advantage 
 from the number of vessels which are employed in gomg 
 to and from Philadelphia. It is situated on Christiana 
 and Brandywine creeks, which unite, and are four hun- 
 dred yards wide where they empty into the Delaware 
 river The principal part of the town is situated on die 
 southwest side of a hill, on the opposite side of which 
 are a number of mUls for grain, well known by the name 
 of the Brandywine mills, in which large quantities of flour 
 are manufactured. The Christiana admits vessels of fif- 
 teen feet draught of water up to tlie town, and those ot 
 ten feet eight miles further. r o, •, , , , • 
 
 Wilmington is laid out on the plan of Philadelphia, 
 and contains upwards 6f eleven hundred houses and five 
 thousand inhabitants. The houses for public vyorship 
 are many of them neat and elegant; the prmcipal of 
 which are two for Presbyterians, one for Swedish Luthe- 
 rans, one for Baptists, one for Friends, and a Methodist 
 
 ^ On the west side of the town stands the poor-house, 
 which is a neat building, one hundred and twenty feet by 
 forty, and three stories high. It is a monument of the 
 humanity and benevolence of the inhabitants. The 
 
364 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 schools in this town are well supported, there being 
 above four hundred children who go to the public semi- 
 naries in town. The Latin and Greek languages are 
 taught here, and the town can boast ' of some men of 
 eminent learning and integrity. 
 
 I met with an occurrence soon after my arrival in town, 
 which caused me once more to take notice of that perfect 
 spirit of equality which reigns among those respectable 
 people called Quakers. Wanting some information rela- 
 tive to the seminaries of learning, pubUc edifices, &c. I 
 was directed to the house of a respectable gentleman who 
 held a public station in the town. 1 went to his house, 
 and, on my ringing the bell, a servant girl came to the 
 door, of whom I inquired if her master was within. She 
 stood for a moment, and then replied, " I have got 
 no master." I then inquired if her mistress was at home. 
 To which she answered, " I have got no mistress." 
 *' Why, don't you live here, my girl ?" said I. " No," 
 she replied, " 1 only stay here : if you want to see Mr. 
 Willis, I will call him, but he is no master of mine." I 
 apologized for my mistake, and resolved for the future 
 to drop the application of master and mistress. 
 
 CHAP. XL. 
 
 Arrival in Philadelphia — General description of the city. 
 
 In the course of the next day I took passage in the Dili- 
 gence stsge, and proceeded for Philadelphia. The com- 
 piiny consibled of four passengers besides myself, two of 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 365 
 
 whom were residents of Philadelphia, and two of Balti- 
 more. The time was spent very agreeably, an animated 
 discourse being kept up by the party until we arrived in 
 Philadelphia. I put up at the Washington Hotel, and 
 found excellent accommodations. 
 
 The city of Philadelphia is the most regular and best 
 built city in the United States. Its streets are most of 
 them straight, spacious, and clean. Its dwellings are 
 principally of brick or stone, and from three to four sto- 
 ries high. It is said, and with justice, to be the besfe 
 governed city in the world. 
 
 The ground plot of the city is an oblong square, and 
 fronts on the west side of the Delaware, where the river 
 is a mile in breadth. The streets which are parallel with 
 the water are named from number one to fifteen, and are 
 all of them paved. 
 
 The population of this city, according to the census of 
 1810, amounted to one hundred and eleven thousand one 
 hundred and thirty- six ; but the increase of its population 
 has been very considerable since that time. 
 
 The trade of the whole state of Pennsylvania is princi- 
 pally carried on from this city, and its merchants drive a 
 trade to the four quaners of the globe. The elegant con- 
 struction of their ships has given them a superior advan- 
 tage in this respect, and many of the ship builders have 
 made themselves independent. Some of the merchants 
 are immensely rich, having capitals of from half a million 
 to three millions of dollars in circulation, and owning from, 
 twenty to thirty sail of vessels. 
 
 This city has been severely afflicted with pestilential 
 diseases, which have swept off thousands of its inhab- 
 itants, and kft an impression that the local situation of 
 
366 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 Philadelphia is unhealthy ; but the indefatigable exer^ 
 tions of the corporation to render the streets perfectly 
 clean, and the judicious experiments of the learned Dr. 
 Rush, have proved that it is of foreign importation, and 
 under judicious health regulations this city is as free from 
 disease as any part of the United States. 
 
 In this city there are thirty houses for public worship ; 
 five for the Friends, six for Presbyterians and Seceders, 
 two for German Lutherans, one for German Calvinists, 
 geven for Episcopalians, four for Roman Catholics, one for 
 Swedish Lutherans, one for Moravians, one for Cove- 
 nanters, one for Baptists, one for Africans, and one for 
 Universalists. 
 
 A society for alleviating the miseries of prisoners is es- 
 tablished in this city, and is an honour to the philanthropy 
 and benevolence of its inhabitants. Under the care of 
 this society, the penitentiary has become a regular manu- 
 factory. A variety of the different branches of manufac- 
 tures arc there canied on, and to excite the industry of 
 the prisoners, they receive all they have earned after de- 
 ducting one shilling and six pence for their daily ex- 
 penses. The penitentiary of New- York is said to be an 
 improvement of this plan, and the prisoners are said to 
 be better lodged and fed there than they are in this city. 
 
 The public library is a valuable institution, and con- 
 tains upwards of fourteen thousand volumes, besides a 
 valuable collection of rare books, which were presented 
 to the institution by James Logan, Esq. It has a muse- 
 um attached to it, with a valuable and complete set of 
 philosophical apparatus. 
 
 The museum, kept by Mr. Peale, is celebrated all over 
 the United States for the valuable collection of birds and 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 367 
 
 other rare natural curiosities. Here the mineralogist will 
 find many specimens of ores, fossils, Sec. which are not 
 only extremely rare, but well worthy his attention. 
 
 The academy of the fine arts have erected a neat and 
 elegant building, in which are some well executed speci- 
 mens of ^jainting and sculpture, which do credit to the 
 American artist, and will receive the just tribute of praise 
 from the connoisseur and the man of taste. 
 
 The hospital is a large and commodious building, and 
 under such wise and salutary regulations as render it a 
 blessing to the community at large. It is well attended 
 with physicians and surgeons, and the celebrated Dr* 
 Rush has performed many cures in it which have been of 
 much service to the medical world. Attached to this 
 building is a poor-house, which, with the hospital, is said 
 to contain five hundred persons* 
 
 Two of the banks which are established in this city 
 are vei^ elegant, particularly that which was formerly 
 considered the United States' bank, now belonging to 
 Mr. Gerard, the front of which is of white marble. Tht? 
 national bank of the United States, it is understood, is to 
 be estabhshed at Philadelphia. If another building should 
 be erected as elegant as that which has been mentioned, 
 this city would be famous for the number and beauty of 
 its public buildings. 
 
 The markets of tliis city are excellent, and exceeded 
 by none in the United States in extent, or the vai'iety and 
 abundance of their productions. The beef is reckoned 
 superior to that of New- York, and the variety and excel- 
 lence of their vegetables are said to be exceeded by none 
 in the United States, or even in Europe. 
 
 An university is established in this city, which is hand- 
 
' / ■ 
 
 368 KER'S TRAVELS. 
 
 somely endowed, and well furnished with learned and 
 able professors. This university has probably furnished 
 its full quota of men of eminence on the practical theatre 
 of the United States. Men of high professional charac- 
 ter in law, physic, and divinity, have there imbibed the 
 elements of science ; and not a few of them have been 
 indebted to it for their whole education. 
 
 The masonic hall, lately erected by the grand lodge of 
 Pennsylvania, is a superb and elegant piece of architec- 
 ture, and reflects credit upon the talents of the American 
 architect. There is a great number of subordinate 
 lodges. 
 
 Education receives particular attention in Philadelphia, 
 almost every religious society having a school under its 
 immediate patronage ; besides there are respectable acade- 
 mies and schools in different parts of the city, in which 
 the sexes are taught various branches both useful and 
 ornamental. A school for the Africans is likewise estab- 
 lished and has received liberal encouragement and sup- 
 port from the inhabitants of this city, and is productive 
 of much good. 
 
 " In short," to conclude in the language of a pious and 
 elegant writer, " whether we consider the local situation, 
 the size, the beauty, the variety, and utility of the im- 
 provements in mechanics, in agriculture, and manufac- 
 tures ; or the industry, the enterprize, the humanity, and 
 the abilities of the inhabitants of the city of Philadelphia^ 
 it merits to be viewed as the first city in the United 
 States." 
 
 A^-i: 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. o69 
 
 CHAP. XLI. 
 
 Trenton — Princeton — New -Brunswick — Briclgetortn — 
 Arrival at Elizabethtown, and conclusion of the author'' s 
 travels* 
 
 I STAID a few days in Philadelphia, and then took pas- 
 sage in the steam-boat line for New- York. I went on 
 board the steam-boat at 8 o'clock in the morning, and 
 had an agreeable passage up tlie Delaware to Borden - 
 town, which is pleasantly situated at the mouth of Cross- 
 wick's creek, on the east bank of the Delaware river, 
 about twenty- six miles from Philadelphia, and seven 
 miles from Trenton. It is a small thriving place, and 
 has an academy. From Bordentown we proceeded by 
 stage to Trenton. 
 
 Trenton is one of the largest towns in the state of 
 New-Jersey, and is pleasantly situated on the east side 
 of the Delaware river, opposite die falls. The river is 
 not navigable above these falls, except for small boats. 
 The town contains about three hundred houses, and 
 about three thousand one hundred inhabitants. The le- 
 gislature meets here, and there is a handsome court-house 
 for their accommodation. The supreme court sits in this 
 town, and most of the public offices are kept here. The 
 Episcopalians, Presbyterians, and Methodists, have each 
 a church for religious worship. There is a flourishing 
 academy in the town, and the public houses afford ex- 
 cellent accommodations for travellers. 
 
 There are a number of elegant country seats in the 
 
 47 
 
370 KER»S TRAVELS. 
 
 neighbourhood of Trenton, situated on the banks of the 
 Delaware river, which are ornamented with taste and 
 elegance. 
 
 The road through part of the country is over a fine 
 turnpike, which has been made at a considerable expense 
 and is kept in excellent repair. It shortens the distance 
 to ninety-five miles from Philadelphia to New- York. 
 
 Ten miles from Trenton we passed through Prince- 
 ton, which is pleasantly situated in Middlesex county. 
 It has the appearance of being a flourishing and well built 
 town. Nassau Hall college is situated in this place, and 
 is one of the best conducted seminaries of education in 
 the United States. It is a handsome stone building 
 one hundred and eighty by fifty-four feet, three stories 
 high, and stands on an elevated and airy situation, com- 
 manding an extensive and beautiful prospect. The offi- 
 cers consist of a president, who is a professor of moral 
 philosophy, natural and revealed theology, history, and 
 eloquence ; a professor of mathematics, a professor of 
 chemistry, and a sufficient number of tutors. On Sab- 
 bath evenings lectures are delivered in the college hall, 
 to the students, on revealed religion, the Jewish and 
 Christian antiquities, and sacred criticism. On Thurs- 
 day evenings lectures are delivered to a theological class, 
 who are bachelors of arts, on the system of divinity. 
 The same class, on Tuesday evenings, exhibits essays 
 or sermons to the president, for his remarks apd criti- 
 cism. On Friday evenings, in the winter season, the 
 graduates who reside in the college, meet to improve 
 themselves in composition, and to discuss moral or lite- 
 rary subjects. Most of the students belong to the two 
 classes who meet, the one on Monday, and the other on 
 
KER'S TRAVELS. 371 
 
 Wednesday evenings, for the same purposes. Between 
 these two classes there is an ardent emulation, none being 
 admitted into either who have a bad character. The 
 seminary has turned out some men eminent for their 
 learning and piety. 
 
 Sixteen miles from Princeton we passed through 
 
 New- Brunswick, which is a place of considerable trade. 
 
 It is situated in Middlesex county, on the southwest side 
 
 i*^ of tlie Raritan river, on low ground. There are a num- 
 
 ,)ber of buildings erected on a hill which rises back 
 
 I of the town, >vhich is a pleasant and healthful situa- 
 
 ^vUion. Queen's college is situated in this town; it is of 
 
 ^'}M secondary rank, and is said to be in a flourishing state. 
 
 ^ The town contains about seven thousand inhabitants. 
 
 :'<^ The road from New-Brunswick is very good, and the 
 
 line of stages well supplied with good horses and careful 
 
 ,?t::^drivers. The accommodations for travelling from Phila- 
 
 ^t'^'delphia to New- York are, in every respect, equal to those 
 
 •: on any road in the union, and I think superior to those 
 
 from Liverpool to London. 
 
 We stopped to change horses at Bridgeto\vn, which 
 , is more generally known by the name of Rahway. It 
 contains a number of stores filled with an extensive as- 
 >^ sortment of goods, and appears to be a thriving town. 
 5 The inhabitants are mostly Friends, and, as is usual with 
 i< ' that respectable body of people, they are orderly, indus- 
 ious, and attentive to business. 
 
 At half past one o'clock we arrived at Elizabethtown, 
 
 nd found the steam-boat ready to convey us to New- 
 
 ork. My stay was so short that I was not able to obtain 
 
 much information respecting the town ; but the number 
 
 d r^egularity of its buildings, its shops filled with all the 
 
572 
 
 KER'S TRAVELS, 
 
 productions of Europe, the elegance of its churches, and 
 the excellence of its accommodations for travellers, con- 
 vinced me that it was a thriving place, and that it might 
 justly be considered as one of the first towns in die state. 
 We were soon hurried on board the steam-boat, which 
 in a short time conveyed us to the city of New- York. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
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