SF 503 .C65 Copy 1 J ^>^> THR -♦>— 1 i & b^CKlg^l 3|GUIDE.te m -.v^W TO TRAiT^i, FEcw B R E ED GAME COC?: £ FOR THE r:^. l!^ I ! ITH VALUAE IMPC: KlLllAkU K. KUX. XXT?'^ -i^^'rHE »— Police Gazettk STANDARD BOOK OF RULES COBiXAIBJIBJG RUIZES OM ARCHERY, BAGATELLE, BICYCLE, BILLIARDS, BOAT RACING, BOWLING, ALL KINDS OF BOXING, CLUB SWINGING, COCK FIGHTING, CRICKET, CURLING, DOG FIGHTING, FOOT BALL, HAND BALL, LACROSSE, POLO, POOL, QUOIT THROWING, RAT KILLING, SKATING, SKITTLE, SHOOTING, SWIMMING, SWORD CONTESTS, PUTTING THE STONE, THROWING THE HAMMER, TOSSING THE CABER, WALKING. RUNNING, WHEELBARROW RACING, AND ILL KINDS OF WRESTLING. Sent Postpaid by mail to any address ok receipt of pru'e. RICHARD K:. KOX, F'tjiblisl::Ler, Franklin Square, Ne\ir ITork. -^"^THEa^* COCKER'S GUIDE HOW TO TRAIN, FEED AND BREED GAME COCKS FOR THE PIT, WITH VALUABLE HINTS, RULES AND OTHER IMPORTANT INFORMATION. By an Kxf>erx. published by Franklin Square, N. Y, 1888, Co INTRODLCTORY. Owing to the great increase of cock fighting in the United States and Canada, and the progress made in breeding the game Eowls for the pit, we have compiled this book to aid and assist the many breeders and cockers, there being no book on training game fowls now in print. The book contains all the necessary information in regard to breeding and preparing game fowls for the pit, and it will be found a valuable addition to every sporting man's library, as well as a monitor for those who make it the custom of arranging mains and fighting game fowls. The author has had years of experience in the pit, has owned some of the best strains that ever fought, while his experience in feeding and training game fowls has not been limited. The breeding of game fowls is just as much a science as the breeding of thort>ughbreds. "In crossing colors in breeding the following cases — first, when there are more than six hens to each cock ; second, when the hens are dark with dark legs and the cock light ; third, when the hens are full grown and the cock not full grown ; also in breeding games from hens with a barn-door cock the progeny will be gamer than if breeding from a game cock and barn-door hen. The fighting qualities are, however, inherited more directly from the cock than from the hen. In breeding game fowls together, which made the best breeders for the pit in general more careful of their brood cocks than of their brood hens. In all animals of both sexes those taking the most after their sires are considered to be the strongest and most spirited. As a rule, breeding from fowls not full grown is a great mistake, as even if they produce quicker birds (which some say, though contrary to my experience), they at any rate produce weaker, smaller and softer birds both in bone and flesh." It is a well known fact that every breeder has his own ideas and no amount of talking could induce him to change it. One of these is not dubbing his breeding cocks, as they select their finest stags and keep them undubbed, putting them on a walk alone with a few hens onlv. When our stock has bee-i bred in-and-in too INTRODUCTORY. long they begin to be slower in their motions, the hens do not lay- as well and also moult later each season and feather more slowly. In this case they should be crossed with a strong, healthy brood cock, as all birds from a first cross are more vigorous if the cross is good, and also best for the pit. Each succeeding cross grows less vigorous and spirited. By keeping two distinct breeds a first cross can always be had when wanted. It is said the first laving hens never breed the best birds, i. e., hens that lay in winter are not the best to breed from, having exhausted themselves before the proper season. Breeders for the pit generally allow three hens to the stag, and five to the code, but we are convinced from our own experience that the best stock can be bred from a single cock and two ^ood hens ; still it is often the case that two hens will not prove suf- ficient and others will have to be put in. But as a general thing we like to breed from tv^o heiis if possible. THE COCKER'S GUIDE. A COCK PIT— DIMENSIONS. A pit should be made with eight corners or circular, sixteen or eighteen feet in diameter, be from eighteen to twenty-six inches in height in order to prevent the cock from breaking his heels while in combat with his opponent. The sides of the pit should be padded and lined in order to make it resemble a cushion. Carpet should cover the floor of the pit, or other suitable material. In the center a scratch should be maiie and two other marks drawn twelve inches each way from the center mark or scratch. The sides of the pit may be padded with hay, straw or aay soft packing, and any kind of cheap material may be used to cover the stuffing. Chopped hay or straw is the most useful. HO^^r to handle fowls in the pit. Never pit a fowl that is sick or out of condition. Every pitter should be thoroughly acquainted with his fowls before he handles them. A handler should never allow the jeers or shouts of the specta- tors to attract his attention, but give undivided attention to his bird during the battle. In giving either cock the wing great care and gentleness should be displayed, and t'.ie pitter must not use force enough to throw his bird off his feet. It is the handler's duty to see the game fowl's weight at once after the fight. Handlers should be sure to heel wide hitters more closely than close hitters. Great caution must be taken in heeling close hit- ting fowls, or else they are liable to cut themselves instead of their adversary. 8 THE COCKER'S GUIDE. Trimming fowls and heeling them for the pit *' cutting out " can be successfully done by the handler after weighing, and it is very beneficial, for it gives the cock greater force and activity in the pit. Cutting out means trimming the neck and hackle feathers close from his head to his shoulders, and clipping off all the feathers from the tail close to the rump. After this has been success- fully done the handler should take the wings and extend them from the first feather and clip the rest sloping, leaving sharp points that in rising he may endanger the eyes of his opponent when fighting in the pit. In regard to heeling fowls Dr. Cooper says : , " Let your fowl be held so that the inside of the leg will be perfectly level, then take your thumb and fore finger and work the back toe of the fowl. While doing this you will see the leader of the leg rise and fall at the upper joint. You will set the right gaft on a line with the out- side of the leader at the upper joint of the leg, and the left gaft you will set on a line with the inside of the leader at the upper joint. Be careful not to set the gaft too far in, as it would cause the cock to cut himself." The spurs should be sawed off when the cocks are put up for feeding, and should be left with a length sufficient to reach nearly through the socket of the gaft. Thin paper folded and dampened, or soft buckskin can be used to fit the spur to the socket of the gaft. The two methods given above are extensively practiced, and when followed cannot lead astray. Holding the fowl on either side fit tlie heel tightly to the stub, having the point just pass the outside or back of the leg and fasten it while in that position. Holding on to the leg just heeled, turn the fowl and proceed to heel the other in the same manner, with the point occupying a similar position. Fowls heeled in this manner will be found to do good cutting in the body and neck, and frequently will bring down their opponents with either a broken wing or leg. A fowl fighting for the head and neck exclusively requires a much closer heeling, to accomplish which, if the heel is to be placed on the right leg, set it so that the point will be on a line with the center of the slight hollow perceptible in the upper joint of the right leg. The point of the heel on the left leg should be placed on a line with the outside of the upper joint of the left leg. Nearly every old cocker has rules for feeding of his own which he follows, often producing good rtsults, but our object is to print rn:^ COCKERS GUIDE. rules which are regarded as standard authority, and if carefully- observed will result in marked success. The first thing to be provided is a coop of sufficient size and suitable for a cock to exercise in. Probably two and a half feet wide, three feet high and three feet deep, with a roost running through the middle, would be sufficient, providing there was plenty of air and light. Put up your cocks in the evening two weeks before they are to fight, if stags ten days will be sufficient. For the first three or four days the feed should be mush and molasses. If your cocks be very fat mix a little vinegar with the evening food. After the third day physic them with one ounce of Epsom salts to three ounces of butter mixed well together, and at night be sure that they have no food in their coop. Give each cock a pill the size of a marble. The next day let them have as much water as they will drink. The first. feed after giving the physic should be mush and milk. One tablespoonful to each cock and one feed of the white of hard boiled eggs chopped fine and mixed with barley. During the last week do not feed any barley but feed bread and eggs in the morning and cracked corn and eggs in the evening. Wash their feet once a day and sponge their head with rum and vinegar in equal parts. Before feeding in the morning they should exercise for a short time, increasing the length of time each morning. To give them their exercise toss them on a cushion or a bag stuffed with straw, until they become tired. If the cock should be very fat give him extra exercise, and im- mediately after sponge and wipe dry. Then place him in a coop and do not give him drink until he has become quite cool. If possible let their drink be spring water and that only to be given once a day at noon. Two or three swallows are enough. Be careful to examine each cock before cooping in case there are any signs of disease about them, and if so, remove at once. If the cock is very thin in flesh beat up the white of an &%^^ with a little boiled milk and give him two swallows twice a day. The utmost care should be taken to keep the coops clean, and fresh straw should be used every morning. Frequent use of the weights is necessary to show the order and condition of the cocks. If a cock is extremely eager to drink it shows too much fever. In this case give a little nitre in water and the fever will be re- 10 THE COCKERS GUIDE. duced in a short time, this should be repeated until the desire for drink subsides. In no case feed a cock unless his crop is empty, extra fat cocks will require longer exercise and otheis in proportion. Large fat cocks can be reduced from eight to eighteen ounces, smaller ones from tnree to eight ounces. Some cocks will need physic twice a week, when taken up, others only once. This can only be determined by the feeder. The feeder should be provided with a good pair of scales that can weigh do A^n as low as half an ounce, and he can only feed intel- ligently by their frequent use. Fat cocks require long sparring or flirting, and when much wearied let them rest. As long as their appetites are good you need have no fears of over exercise, but if you should not be able to keep them down in flesh feed sparingly with barley bread and scalded barley. If they should become too much reduced and wanting in ap- petite let them have such food as they are most fond of. A raw egg or two will probably restore it. When they are inclined to drink too much it is a sign of heat and sometimes happens at the latter part of the keep. Then they should have a little sorrel or plantain leaf cut and mixed with their iood. Give them also milk and cool spring water with a little fine rectified spirits of nitre in it to drink which will cool and moderate their heat. This should be repeated until their thirst or desire for drink subsides. In no in- stance give a cock water after being heated by sparring or other- wise. When' cocks begin to purge give them new mi'.k well boiled with barley bread vvhili warm. Their d.ink ought to be warm toast and spring water. In giving cocks drink do not let them have more than four dips at a time, say at eight and eleven o'clock in the morning and three o'clock in the afternoon; and never feed a cock unless ihe crop is empty. Gi\ e him drink and exercise rnd 1 1 will soon go off. Reducing the weight of the cock depends entirely on the size and the order in which they are put up. Large iat cocks should lose from ten to sixteen ounces. A cock in medium order should lose from six to ten ounces, smaller ones in proportion. Lean cocks will lose one or two ounces, but will nearly gain it in feed- ing, and every cock when f')ught should rather be in the rise in weight. If the weather is warm they should be trimmed the day before the fi.;ht, but must be kept warn t'^at night; be careful and THE COCKERS GUIDE. do not cut their wino^s and tails too short. Care should be taken to keep the cocks clean. Shift the straw at least once in two days in their coops. Every evening, three days before the fight, wash the head, legs and feet in urine and in the morning wash them in v/ater not too cold, and wipe dry. This will heal the bruises about their lieads and the cracks in their toes. Stags ought to be put the ninth day before they fight, anl ouglt to have but one sparring and one purge. They eire to be treated in other respects as old cocks. To make sulphur v/ater take a pint of boiling water, putting in the same half an ounce of sulphur and pouring off as it cools. To scald barley pour on it very hot water, letting it ttand no< more than ten minutes, after which pour it off and spread the barley on a table to dry. The water that is poured off is served for their drink which ought to be made fresh every morning. It is best weak, a slight taste of the barley being Sufficient, otherwise it is rather heating. In mixing milk and water for their drink be careful not to put more than one-fourth skimmed milk to three-fourths spring water. A greater proportion of milk is not so cooling. The different sorts of bread for feed, such as oat, barley or corn meal, must be heated and should be baked the day before they are used. Tr.ey are made in the following manner: Take equal measures of the white of eggs and milk, beat well together, then add as much meal as will make up for bread which must be well worked up together and bake J, caie being used to prevent, the crust from burning. Underno circumstances should sour milk be used for it will cause them to purge, which is very hurtful. When raw beef is recommended, if it should be found to purge, discontinue its use. The following is also another very good .vay : The fowl is supposed to come from his walk in good condition in which case he will be too fat for fighting and will have no wind until he is reduced. To effect this, medicine and abstinence from food are required for seven or eight days before he can be brought to th^ hit. His tail and spurs should be cut short and he is placed in his coop and the first day receives no food, the second day he shiuhl have his physic consisting of cream of tartar or jalap, or both united in a dose of about five grains each. If it be a very large and fat cock the dose may be increased to ten grains of cream of tartar, 'i he&e are gi^'en him mixed in fresh butler. Tnis gent rally purges briskly and scours out the intestines. 12 THE COCKER'S GUIDE. Immediately after the physic is given and before it efiects him, he is placed on loose straw or a gjass plot with another cock and allowed to spar with him, the boots or muffles having been pre- viously tied on their short spurs. In this way he may be exercised until he is a little weary. He is then returned to his pen. Before putting him up it is necessary to examine his mouth to see if he has been picked or wounded in the inside, as such wound is apt to canker. To prevent this it is washed with a little vinegar and brandy. He is now allowed his warm nest to work off his physic. This is a diet made of warm ale or sweetwort with bread in it, also a little sugar candy, or bread and milk and sugar candy about as large as a tea cup full. He is then shut up close until the next morning or about twenty-four hours. If the weather is warm he may be clipped out for fighting, but if the weather is c jld the room should be made warm or a blanket placed over his pen. The room should be kept dark except at feeding. Early on the the third morning his pen must be cleaned out from the effects of the physic, etc., and clean dry straw put in the same. This should be done every day. His feet should be washed and dried clean before he is returned to his pen. If his feet feel cold his pen should be made warmer. He is next to be allowed some bread, a sort of bread made of ingredients in the following proportion. About three pounds of fine flour, two eggs, four whites of eggs and a little yeast. This kneaded with a sufficiency of water for a proper consistency and well baked. Some add a small number of annis seed or a little cinnamon. Of this bread as much as would fill a tea cup cut into pieces, is given him twice a day. No water is allowed him at this stage as it is considered highly injurious. On the fourth day, early in the morning he should have a tea cup of good barley and a little water in which a toast has been steeped for some time. Having eaten this, clean his pen, etc., and let it be uncovered for about an hour, while he scratches and picks the straw. Some think it is highly advantageous to prepare the barley for them by bruising it, thus taking away the sharp points of the barley and the husky shell or covering, which is blown away. In the after- noon the same quantity of barley may be repeated, but no water. On the fifth day he may have the bread as before but only three portions of it, and no water. THE COCKERS GUIDE. ij On the sixth, or weighing day, very early in the morning, give him the bread as before. He is then to be weighed and afterwards a good feed of barley and water should be given him. Some hold it a valuable secret to give them flesh, such as sheep's heart for this and the succeeding day, chopped small and mixed with the other food. On the seventh day, or day before fighting, early in the morn, ing let him have the same feed of barley. In the afternoon bread and the white of an egg boiled hird and a little water. On the eighth, or day of fighting, he may have a little barley, about forty grains. IMPORTANT HINTS TO BREEDERS. 1. Fanciers must not select their cocks from one yard and hens from another if they expect to raise reliable fowl for the pit. 2. Breeders must never allow their old and well tried stock to run out. Never breed from game you know nothing about. 3. Breeders when i-aising game for the p t should give special attention and procure cocks and hens of good size with large bone and muscle. 4. A game cock, especially one to be used for breeding pur- poses, should set well on his legs, be broad at the shoulders, have strong wings and tough, wiry feathers. 5. Game fowl must not be confined to one kind of food. 6. Water must be supplied game fowl twice a day and care must be taken not to supply them with too much food. 7. Great care should be displayed in selecting the game to breed for the pit. Do not be led astray by color but look for strength and endurance with all the necessary fighting qualities. 8. The best cock to breed from to battle in the pit is a well- tested cock of a reliable breed, a good striker and biller, a savage and determined fighter. 9. In breeding for the pit, the rule is three hens to a stag and five hens to a cock. 10. Burn out every nest box before and after using. The charred surface will not favor the lodgment of vermin. Fill each nest bottom with freshly cut sod slightly hollowed towards the cen- ter, covering with fine straw. 14 THE COCKER'S GUIDE, 11. Always sprinkle nest and hen with carbolic powder. Don't u?e too much sulphur ; in fact if carbolic powder is obtainable don't use it at all. Let your hen get accustomed to the nest be- fore trusting her with the eggs ; then give the eggs to her, quietly inserting them under her rather than giving her to the eggs. 12. Ten days before a cock is taken from his walk if he does not show any sign of disease he should be given six grains of cream of tartar and six grains of rhubarb made into pills with un- salted butter or lard. 13. He should then be exercised, when he may be given a warm mash of bread steeped in sweetened water or boiled rice and milk. 14. After twenty-four hours have elapsed he can be turned oiit. 15. During the next ten days he must be fed on grain such aa he has been accustomed to. 16. lie can also be fed some fine chopped raw beef which is very beneficial if it agrees with him. 17. Having been prepared as above suggested, the cock will now be taken up preparatory to being fed and drilled for the pit. Cut ofi his spurs, which should be done with a small saw made for that purpose, leaving about half an inch. 18. The cock should then be exercised or '* flirted " until he is tired, then receive a dose of sulphur water lukewarm. 19. In the evening physic as before directed, spar him, then give him a mash of barley or oat bread and milk to work off the physic. 20. At twelve o'clock noon, feed boiled rice and milk, late in the evening flirt him, then give warm sulphur water. 21. Clean out your coop weU, then wash your cock's mouth, legs and feet, wipe dry and put him back in the coop. 22. His first feed should be barley or oat meal bread moistened with skimmed mik or water. Give him three feeds of this, and his drink should be barley water three times that day. Flirt him. 23. Feed oat bread and scalded barley mixed; at twelve o'clock oat bread and the white of a hard boiled egg ; late in the evening exercise by flirting, feed with scalded barley and corn bread. Give him free-stone water three times for drink. 24. Feed corn bread and raw beef chopped fine and mixed in the morning, oat bread and the white of a hard boiled ^^•g at twelve o'clock, Art him in the evening for exercise, feed oat bread and \ We cockers guide jj scalded barley ; give barley water cool three times and let him roost at night. 25. Feed oat bread and raw beef chopped fine and mixed in the morning ; at twelve o'clock feed with corn bread and the white of a hard boiled egg. 26. Exercise him in the evening by flirting, and feed him oat bread and scalded barley. His drink should be spring water and milk. Let him roost at night. 27. Feed corn bread and scalded barley mixed, in the morning ; at twelve o'clock feed on oat bread and the white of a hard boiled ^SS' ^^ ^^® evening flirt him for exercise, and feed corn brt- ad and scalded barley mixed. His drink should be barley water three times. Let him roost at night. 28. When the cocks are on the pit, the judges are to examine whether they answer the description taken in the match bill, and whether they are fairly trimmed and have on fair heels. If all be right and fair, the pitters are to deliver their cocks six feet apart (or thereabouts) and retire a step or two back ; but if a wrong cock should be produced, the party so offending forfeits that battle. 29. All heels that are round from the socket to the po?nt are al- lowed to be fair ; any pitter bringing a cock on the pit with any other kind of heels, except by particular agreement, forfeits the battle 30. If either cock should be trimmed with a close, unfair hackle, the judge shall direct the other to be cut in the same manner ; and at that time shall observe to the pitter that if he brings another cock in the like situation, uuless he shall have been previously trimmed, he shall forfeit the battle. 31. A pitter, when he delivers his cock, shall retire two paces back, and not advance or walk round his cock, until a blow is passed. 32. An interval of ten minutes shall be allowed between the termination of one battle and the commencement of another. 33. No pitter shall pull a feather out of a cock's mouth, nor from over his eyes or head, or pluck him by the breast, to make him fight, or pinch him for the like purpose, under penalty of forfeit- ing the battle. 34. The pitters are to give their cocks room to fight, and are not to hover or press on them, so as to retard them from striking. 35. Greasing, peppering, muffing and soaping a cock, or any ITHE tOCKERS GUIDE, other external application, are unfair practices, and by no means admissible in this amusement. 36. The judge, when required, may suffer a pitter to call in a few of his friends to assist in catching his cock, who are to retire immediately as soon as the cock is caught, and in no other instance is the judge to suffer the pit to be broken. 37. All cocks on their backs are to be immediately turned over on their bellies, by their respective pitters, at all times. A cock, when down, is to have a wing given to him, if he needs it, unless his adversary is on it, but his pitter is to place the wing gently in its proper position, and not to lift the cock, and no wing is to be given unless absolutely necessary. 38. If either cock should be hanged in himself, in the pit or canvas, he is to be loosed by his pitter, but if in his adversary, both pitters are immediately to lay hold of their respective cocks, and the pitter whose cock is hung shall hold him steadily whilst the adverse party draws out the heel, and then they shall take their cocks asunder a sufficient distance for them fairly to renew the combat. 39. Should the cocks separate, and the judge be unable to de- cide which fought last, he shall, at his discretion, direct the pitters to carry their cocks to the middle of the pit, and deliver them beak to beak, unless either of them is bh'nd, in which case they are to be shouldered ; that is, delivered with their breasts touching, each pitter takmg care to deliver his cock at this, as well as at all other times, with one hand. 40. When both cocks cease fighting, it is then in the power of the pitter of the last fighting cock, unless they touch each other, to demand a count of the judge, who shall count 40 deliberately, which, when counted out, is not to be counted again during the battle. 41. Then the pitters shall catch their cocks, and carry them to the middle of the pit, and deliver them "beak to beak, "but to be shouldered if either of them is blind, as before. Then, if either cock refuses or neglects to fight, the judge shall count ten, and shall call out *'once refused," and shall direct the pitters to bring their cocks again to the middle of the pit, and put to as before ; and if the same cock in like manner refuses, shall count ten 1 again and call out " twice refused," and so proceed until one cock , thus refuses six times successively. The judge shall then deter- ^ mine the battle ajrainst such cock. \ Th£: CO CIDER'S GUIDE. tf 42. If either cock die before the judge can finish the counting of the law, the battle is to be given to the living cock, and if both die, the longest liver wins the battle. 43. The pitters are not to touch their cocks whilst the judge is in the act of counting. 44. No pitter is ever to lay hold of his adversary's cock unless to draw out the heel, and then he must take him below the knee. Then there shall be no second delivery : that is, after he is once delivered, he shall not be touched until a blow is struck, unless ordered by the judge. 45. No pitter shall touch his cock, unless at the times mentioned in the foregoing rules. 46. If any pitter acts contrary to these rules, the judge, if called on at the time, shall give the battle against him. W^ESTERN NEW YORK RULES. Rule i. — The pit shall be at least twelve feet in diameter and ten inches in height. A chalk mark in the center and two outer marks eighteen inches from the center. Rule 2. — The handlers shall choose a judge to decide all matters in dispute during the match. In all cases of appeal the fighting ceases until the judge gives his decision which shall be final. If any dispute arises between the pitters the cocks are not to be taken from the pit nor the spurs taken off until it is decided by the judge. Rule 3. — Cocks whose difference in weight is only two ounces are a match, except blinkers, when three to five ounces difference in their weight should be allowed. Rule 4. — The spurs shall be one and a quarter inches in length, round head, tapering from socket to point. They are to be changed every fight. Rule 5. — The pitters shall deliver their cocks fair on their feet on the outer mark, excepting the first scoring, which should be at least four feet from the center score. Rule 6. — When one cock has refused to fight the pitter of the fighting cock shall count ten, clear and distinct, and appeal to the jB the COCKER'S GUIDE. judge for a count. If allowed he will count five tens naming and scoring each ten at the outer score. At the fifth ten the cocks will breast at the center and the pitlerof the one who has the count shall count twenty and win the fight. Rule 7. — If during a count both cocks refuse to fight, the pitter of the cock fighting last shall be entitled to the count. The judge shall decide who is entitled to the count if both pitters claim the count. Rule 8. — If a cock fights last he wins the fight even should he die before the count is out. A cock picking is a fighting cock ex- cepting on the fifth ten being uttered when he must be a breaking cock to break the count. A fighting cock does not break his own count. Rule 9. — A pitter is not allowed to handle his own cock after he has been delivered without counting ten clear and distinct and one cock refusing to fight. The judge shall overlook a small error and to the best of his knowledge let the best cock win. Rule 10. — Any pitter guilty of squeezing his bird or shoving him across the score, or taking feathers from or sucking or wiping his beak shall be deemed foul handling, and if claimed he shall lose the fight. Rule ii. — The birds shall be weighed before leaving the pit and before or after the fight as agreed upon. If the winner is heavier than the match list provides he loses. Two ounces over check weight is a match. Rule 12. — The pound age shall be twenty to one. The pitter of the cock pour ding shall count twenty twice, at the end of which he shall say : "Who takes" three times. The money shall be put in the pit. If not taken he wins ; if taken he shall count five times as usual. A cock can be pounded five limes. If taken once he can be pounded again. The odds and taken money to be handed to the judge by one of the pitters. Rule 13. — A cock pounded, if he in turn has recovered, can pound the cock that the odds were first on. Rule 14. — The birds shall if hackled be sure to have no foul hackle. Rule 15. — A cock on his back can be turned over by his handler, but not on his side. The handler can only handle his bird with. out asking the judge when he is fast in himself or in the pit. The ^ THE COCKER'S GUIDE. 7^ judge should say quickly when they are fast in each other, the word, *< Handle." Rule 16.— The judge's decision in all cases is to be final. Rule 17. — A cock running away cannot win. If both run they shall be tried by a fresh cock. If one fights and the other does not, the fighting cock wins. If both refuse, the fight shall be de- clared a draw. Rule 18. — Any violation of the above rules loses the fight. NE^V ORLEANS (LA.) RULES. Rule i. — All birds shall be weighed; give or take two ounces shall be a match or otherwise if parties see fit to make it so. Rule 2.- All heels to be fought with shall be round from socket to a point or as nearly so as possible. Rule 3. — When a stag is matched against a cock the stag will be entitled to four ounces advance in weight. Rule 4.— It shall be fair for handlers to pull feathers and sling blood or any other thing to help the bird between handlings. Rule 5.— It shall be foul for A or B to touch their birds while fighting un'ess one is fast to the other, but if a bird should unfor- tunately fasten himself with his own heel, it shaU be fair to handle, but on no other consideration ; and either handler violating or de- viating from the above rule shall lose his fight. Rule 6. — Thirty seconds shall be allowed between each and every round. Rule 7. — In counting, the bird showing fight last is entitled to the count, but if his handler refuses to take the count the op- posite handler shall be entitled to it. Rule 8. —The handler having the count shall pit his bird in his respective place when time is called and count ten and handle three more successive times. When time is called again the birds shall be placed in the centre of the pit breast to breast and forty more covmted, and if the bird not having the count refuse to fight, the one having it shall be declared the winner fO T^E COCKER'S GUIDE. Rule 9. — A peck or blow at his opponent's bird and not at his handler will be considered fighting. Rule 10. — When time is called the handlers must let go their birds from their respective places fair and square ; it shall be foul for either handler to pitch or toss his bird upon his opponent's, and either one violating this rule shall lose the fight. Rule ii. — Each party shall choose a judge and the judges choose a disinterested party as a referee. No referee will be com- petent who has bet on either side, or is otherwise interested. Rule 12. — It shall be the duty of the judges and referee to watch all movements of the fight and judge according to the above rules. The referee will be confined to the opinions of the judges only and his decision is final. Rule 13. — It shall be the duty of the referee to keep time be- tween the rounds and notify the handlers to get ready at twenty- five seconds, then he must call time at thirty seconds when the handlers must be prompt in pitting their birds, and if either handler refuse to do so, he shall lose his fight. DETROIT (MICH.) RULES. Rule 1. — All birds shall be weighed ; give or take two ounces shall be a match. Rule 2. — When a stag is matched against a cock the stag shall be allowed five ounces the advantage. Rule 3. — All birds shall be cut out and deprived of their hackle or glossy feathers. Rule 4. — Gafis, spurs or heels must be round from socket to point. Rule 5. — It shall be fair for handlers to pull feathers and sling blood. Rule 6. — It shall be foul for A or B to touch their birds while fighting unless one is fast to the other. But if a cock should unfortunately fasten himself with his own heels it shall be fair to handle, but on no other consideration, and either handler violating or deviating from the above rule shall lose his fight. THE COCKER'S GUIDE. 21 Rule 7. — The longest liver, when both cocks are mortally wounded, shall be declared the winner. Rule 8. —Thirty seconds shall be allowed between each and every round. Rule 9. — In counting, the bird showing fight last shall be en- titled to the count, but if the handler does not take the count the opposite party shall be entitled to take it. Rule 10. — The handler having the count shall count ten and pit his bird in his respective place, and count ten again, and so on until he has counted forty, then the birds must be piled breast to breast, and he must count forty, and the battle is over unless the opposite bird shows fight by making a peck, which breaks the count, and the fight proceeds. Rule ii. — When time is called the handlers must let go their biids from their respective places fair and square, for it shall be foul for either handler to toss or pitch his bird upon his oppo. nent's, and either violating the above rule shall lose the fight. Rule 12. — Each party shall choose a judge, and the judge shall choose a disinterested person, who shall be styled the referee. No person shall be considered competent to act as referee if it be known that he has bet one cent, more or less, on the match or matches. Rule 13. — It shall be the duty of the judges to watch the mo. tions of the handlers, and, if anything foul occurs, they must ap. peal to the referee, and his decision must be final ; however, i< will be the duty of the referee to notice all complaints from the judges only, and, after due consideration, his decision must be given in strict accordance with the above rules. Rule 14. — It shall be the duty of the referee to call time be- tween the rounds, and at the call of time the handlers must be prompt, and if either handler refuses to obey he shall lose hi!> fight. 22 THE COCKER'S GUIDE. NEW YORK RULES. Rule i. — The pit shill be circular \\\ shape, at least eighteen feet in diameter and not less than sixteen inches in height. The floor sha 1 be covered with carpet or some other suitable material. There shall be a chalk or some (^ther mark made as near to the center of the pit as possible. There shall al:o be two outer marks which shall be one foot each way from the centre mark. Rule 2. — The pitter shall stlect one jud;e who shall choose a referee. Said judge shall decide all matters in dispute during the pendency of the fight, but in case of their inability to agree, then it shall be the duty of the referee to decide and his decision shall be final. Rule 3.— Chickens shall take their age from the first day of March and shall be chickens during the fighting season. Rule 4. — It shall be deemed foul for any of the rcsprclivc pittsrs to pit a cock or chicken with what is termed a foul hackle, that is, any of the feathers left whole on the mane or neck. Rule 5. — The pitter shall let each cock bill each other three or more times, but this is not to be construed that the pitter of a cock has a right to bill with his opponent's cock for the purpose of fatiguing him. Rule 6. — No person shall l>c permitted to handle his fowl aficr he is fairly delivered in the pit unless he counts ten clear and dis- tinct, without either cocl< making fight, cr shall b6 fast in his ad- versary, or fast in the carpet, or hung in the web of the pit or in himself. Rule 7.— Any cock that may get on his back shall be righted again by the pitier, but not taken off the ground he is lying on. Rule 8. — Whenever a cock is fast in his adversary the pitter of the cock the spurs are fast in shall draw them out, but the pitter of the cock has no right to draw out his own spurs except when fast in himself or in the carpet, or in the web of the pit. Rule 9 — When either pitter has counted ten tens successively without the cock refusing fioht, or makirg fight, or on the two cocks being again breasted fair on their feet, beak to beak on ihe centre score or mark, the cock refusing to fight t,hall be declared the loser on ten being counter). The pitters are bound to tell each ten as they count them, as follows : Once, twice, etc. THE COCKERS GUIDE. 23 Rule 10 — No pitter after the cocks have been declared in the pit shall be permitted to clean their beaks or eyes by blowing or othei-wise, or le permitted to squeeze his fowl or press him against the floor during the pendency of the fight. Rule ii. — When a cock is pounded and no person takes it until the pitter counts twenty, and then counts nineteen or twenty and calls three times, " who takes it," and no person takes it, it is a battle to the cock th3 odds are on ; but the pitter of the pounded cock has the right to have the pound i)ut up that is $20 against $l. It this is not complied with tlie pitter shall go on as though there was no poundage. Rule 12. — If a cock is pounded and the poundage is taken, and if the cock the odds are paid against should get up and knock down his adversary, then if the other cock is pounded and the other poundage not taken before the pitter counts twenty twice, and calls out, "Who takes it," three times, he wins, although there was a poundage before. Rule 13. — It shall be the duty of the respective pitters to de- liver their cock fair on its feet on the outer score or mark facing each other, and in a standmg position, except on the fifth ten being told when the}'', the two cocks, shall be placed on the centre score, breast to breast and beak to beak in like manner. Any pitter being guilty of shoving his foot across the score, or of pinching or using any other unfair means for the purpose of making his cock fight, shall lose the fight. Rule 14. — If both cocks fight together, and then both should refuse until they are counted out, in such cases a fresh cock is to be hoveled and brought into the pit, and the pitters are to toss for which cock is to set to first. He that wins has the choice. Then the one which is to set to last is to be taken up but not carried out of the pit. The hoveled cock is then to be put down to the other and a lowed to fight while the judges, or one of them, shall count twenty. The same operation shall be gone through with the other cock and if one fight and the other refuse, it is a battle to the fighting cock, but if both fight, or both refuse, it is a drawn battle. N. B. — This rule is rare'y carried into effect, but any pitter can exact it if he think proper to do so. Rule 15. — If both cocks refuse fighting until four, five or more or Lss tens are counted, the pitter shall continue their count until one cock has refused trn times, for, when a pitter begins to count he counts for both cocks. THE COCKER'S GLTlDE. Rule i6. — If a cock should die before he is counted out he wins the battle if he fights last. This, however, is not to apply- when his adversary is running away. Rule 17. — The crowing or raising of the hackle of a cock is not fight, nor is fighting at the pitter's hands. Rule 18. — A breaking cock is a fighting cock, but a cock breaking from his adversary is not fight. Rule 19. — If any dispute arises among the pitters on the re- sult of a fight the cocks are not to be taken out of the fight, nor the gaffs taken off until a decision has been made by the judges or referee. Rule 20. — Each cock within two ounces of each other shall be a match except blinkers, when they are fighting against two eyed cocks. An allowance from three to five ounces shall be made when blinkers are matched against each other. The same rule to apply in reference to two-eyed cocks. Rule 21. — All matches must be fought with heels, round from the socket to the point, not exceeding one and a quarter inches in length unless otherwise agreed upon. Drop Sockets, Cutters, Slashers and twisted heels shall be considered foul. Rule 22. — Previous to heeling the cocks in fighting mains the , four spurs of same pattern and size shall be placed together and thepitter shall toss for choice of them. Rule 23.— In all mains at the end of each battle the judges shall order the spurs to be changed, i. e., the spurs of the win- ning cock must be placed on the loser's next fowl and changed at the end of every battle. Rule 24. — Any person fighting a cock heavier than he is rep- resented on the match list shall lose the fight, although he may have won. Rule 25. — In all cases of appeal, fighting ceases until the judges or the referee give their decision, which shall be final and strictly to the question before them. Rule 26. — When a bet is made it cannot be declared off unless by consent of both parties, all outside bets to go according to the main bet. Rule 27. — Each pitter when delivering his cock on the score shall take his hands off him as quickly as possible. Rule 28. — Any person violating any of the above rules shall be deemed to have lost the matcli. THE COCKER'S GUIDE. 2S ALBANY (N. Y.) RULES. Rule i. — ^Each and every cock to be weighed before fighting. Any cock exceeding the weight named, forfeits the match, two ounces always being given or taken. Rule 2 -Cocks to be shown with long hackle, with fair inch and a quarter round, low socket heels. Rule 3 — The crowing of a cock or throwing up the hackle in the hands of the handler does not denote fight. Rule 4.— The cocks must be picked and brought to the station and delivered Rule 5. — Cocks shall not be handled while fighting. Rule 6. — The last cock showing fight is entitled to the count, which is five times ten, counted out loud, when the two cocks are breasted. Rule 7. — If either cock refuses fight after the count of ten five times in succession, on being breasted the one that had the count counts thirty and then twenty, when the other cock is counted out. Rule 8. — When a cock is pounded and not taken, the pitter counts twenty, then asks " who takes it ? " three times and that wins. Rule 9. — If one cock is standing on another, neither cock is to be touched while their feathers are touching. When free if one cock is on his back or if his wing is away from him the handler can put his wing under him, but not to put him on his feet. Rule 10.— -The referee's decision is to be final in all SYRACUSE (N. Y.) RULES. Rule i. — The pit shall be at least twelve feet square with a board two feet six inches long across each corner and eighteen inches high ; the bottom covered with sawdust, tanbark or carpet as shall be agreed upon. There shall be a line drawn across the penter and also one 12 inches each way from the center line. 26 THE COCKERS GUIDE. Rule 2.— Each pitter shall choose an umpire, the umpires in turn choosing a referee, whose aecision, when the umpires cannot agree, shall be final. Rule 3. — After the first handling the cocks shall be delivered on the outer lines square on their feet. Rule 4.— A fair inch and a quarter round heel must be used unless otherwise agreed upon. Rule 5 — Chickens shall take their age from the first day of March and shall be chickens during the following fighting season, that is for the following fifteen months. Rule 6.— The hackle may be cut off or not as the parties shall agree upon. Rule 7. — The pitter shall not handle his cock after being de- livered in the pit without counting ten and his adversary's cock re- fusing to fight, except that he is fast in the pit, in himself or in the other cock. Rule 8. — A cock on his back mav be turned on his side, or if his wing is out it can be placed under him without putting him on his feet. Rule 9., — No pitter shall draw his own heel when it is fast in the other cock. Rule id.— In billing the cocks before the fight, if one cock re- fuses and the other bhows fight, the one showing shall win the match. Rule ii. — The pitter who has the count shall count ten five times, naming each ten as once, twice and so on, and shall handle. After each ten and after the fifth ten the cocks shall be f..irly breasted. He is then to count thirty and breast them, twenty and out. Rule 12. — When a cock is pounded and no one takes it, the pitter of the cock the odds are on shall ccmnt twenty and tay '' Wixo takes it? " three times and win. If the poundage is taken tie pitter shall count as if there was no poundage. The poundage shall be twenty dollars to one, to be thrown into the pit or put up in the referee's hands, the pitter to be satisfied that the money is up If this is not done the pitter is tu count as if there was no poundage. Rule 13.— The pitter of the cock meiking fight last to have the count. THE COCKERS GUIDE. Rule 14. — Ii" a cock is pounded and the poundage is taken, and the cock the odds are against shall knock down the other cock, and the other cock is pounded, and if the pitter of the cock pounded last shall count twei.ty, say "Who takes?" three times before the poundage is taken, he shall win the fight. Rule 15. — After the cock has been delivered the pitter shall not clean his cock's beak or eyes, nor squeeze nor press him against the ground. Rule 16. -The cock having the count wins the fight if he dies before the count is out. A cock breaking to get away is not a fighting cock. Rule 17.— Neither cock to be taken from the pit or the heels taken off without the referee's consent. Rule i8.— A man fighting a cock heavier than represented in the marked list, shall lose the fight, although he wins. The cocks to be weighed before leaving the pit. If both cocks are over weight it is a draw. Rule 19.— In case of appeal the fighting shall cease until the decision is given. Rule 20. — All bets to follow the referee's decision. Rule 21. — Any violation of the above rules loses the match. BOSTON (MASS.) RULES. Rule i. — All fowls brought to the pit must be weighed and marked down for those to see who have fowls to fight. Rule 2. — Fowls within two ounces are a match. Rule 3. — a stag is allowed four ounces when he fights against a cock. Pule 4. — A blinker is allowed four ounces when he fights against a sound fowl. Rule 5. — Fowls being ready may be brought to the pit. Rule 6 —Each man takes his station and sets his fowl to the r'g'it or left as he pleases. He may remain there till the fowls are m one another, or in the tan, or one or both is on his back. ^S THE COCKER'S GUIDE. Rule 7. — The handler shall not assist his fowl from where he stations him. If he does he forfeits the battle. Rule 8. — In no case shall the fowls be handled, utiless they are in one another, or can count ten between fighting. Rule 9.— The fowls in hand, each man to his station, and on either counting ten the fowls must be set or the delinquent loses the match. Rule ic— The fowls being set, if either refuses to show fight the last that showed has the couut, which is five times ten when the two cocks are breasted. Rule ii. — The fowls are breasted at every five times ten. Rule 12. — When the two fowls are brought to the breast, the one that had the count, counts five times ten more and then twenty ; then he claims the battle which is his. Rule 13. — In case the fowls show fight while counting, it des- troys the count and the count is commenced again. Rule 14. — In case a fowl is on his back his handler can turn him over. Rule 15. — In all cases the parties can select judges from the company present. Rule 16. — In no case shall any person talk with the handlers while the fowls are fighting. Rule 17. — All weighing will be left to a man selected for the purpose. Rule 18. — All matches will be fought with round heels unless otherwise agreed upon. Rule 19. — A man known to use any but round heels, unless agreed upon, forfeits the battle. Rule 20. — All cutters, slashers and twisted heels, are barred from the pit. Rule 21. — In all cases the last fowl that shows fight has the count. Rule 22. — All fowls brought to the pit that do not show fight do not lose the battle, unless otherwise agreed upon. THE COCKER'S GUIDE i^ BALTIMORE (MD.) RULES. Rule i. — All birds shall be weighed. Give or take two ounces shall be a match, or otherwise, if parties see fit to make it so. Rule 2. — When a stag is matched against a cock the stag will be entitled to four ounces advance in weight. Blinkers are al- lowed four ounces when fighting against two-eyed cocks. Rule 3. — The handlers shall each choose one judge who shall choose a referee. Said judges shall decide all matters in dispute during the pendency of the fight, but in case of their inability to agree, then it shall be the duty of the referee to decide, and his decision shall be final. Rule 4. — Thirty seconds or a count of fifteen by the judge (or referee as the handlers may agree) shall be allowed between each .and every round. Rule 5. — It shall be the duty of the referee to keep time be- tween the rounds, and notify the handlers to get ready at twenty-five seconds. On time being called at thirty seconds, the handlers must be prompt in pitting their cocks, and if either handler refuse to do so, he shall lose the fight. Rule 6.— It shall be fair for handlers to pull feathers and sling blood or any other thing to help the bird between handlings. Rule 7. — It shall be foul for A or B to touch their birds while fighting, unless one is fast to the other, but if a bird should un- fortunately fasten himself with his own heel, it shall be fair to handle, but on no other consideration, and either handler violating or deviating from the above rules shall lose the fight. Rule 8. — In counting, the bird showing fight last shall be en- titled to the count. Rule 9. — The handlers shall pit their birds in their respective places when time is called, and the handler having tlie count, shall count ten, then handle two more successive times and count ten each time. When time is called again the birds shall be placed in the centre of the pit, breast to breast and beak to beak, and twenty more counted ; and if the bird not having the count refuse to fight, the one having it shall be declared the winner. Rule id— It shall be the duty of the respective handlers to de- ^6 THE COCKER'S GUIDE. liver their birds fair on their feet at each pitting on the mark or score, facing each other and in a standing position. Rule ii. — A peck or blow at the opponent's head and not at his handler will be considered fighting. Rule 12. — When time is called the handlers must let go their birds from their respective places fair and square, for it shall be foul for either handler to pitch or toss his bird upon his opponent's, and either one violating the above rule, shall lose his fight. Rule 13. — If both birds fight together, and then if both refuse they are to be pitted at the outer score twice and then breasted on the centre score breast to breast and beak to beak in a standing position. In this case the birds are to lay in the pit thirty seconds at each pitting and at the last pittmg if both should refuse, it is a drawn battle. Rule 14. — In the case of a bird that dies, if he fights last and hia handler has the count, he wins the battle. Rule 15. — ^Whenever a bird is fast in his adversary the handler of the bird the spurs are fast in shall draw them out, but the handler of a bird has no right to draw out his own spur except when fast in himself or in the floor or in the web of the pit. Rule 16. — Greasing, peppering or soaping, or any other exter- nal applications made to a cock, are unfair practices and by no means admissible in this amusement. Rule 17.— The handlers are to give the birds room to fight and not to hover and press on them so as to retard their striking. Rule 18. — Any person fighting a bird heavier than he is repre- sented to be on the match list, shall lose the fight, although he may have won. Rule 19.— In all cases of appeal, fighting ceases until the judges or the referee give their decision, which shall be final and strictly to the question before them. Rule 20. — Each handler when delivering his bird on the score shall take his hands off him as quickly as possible. Rule 21. — No handler shall touch the bird except at the times mentioned in the foregoing rules. Rule 22. — If any dispute arises bet'veen the handlers on the result of th-j fight, the birds arc not to be taken out of the j.it, nor the gaffs taken off until it is decided by the jv:dges or referee. Rule 23. — It shall be the duty of the judges and referees to THE COCKER'S GUIDE. ^i watch all movements of the fight and judge according to the above rules. Rule 24. — When a bet is made it cannot be declared off unless by consent of both parties. All outside bets to go according to the main bet. Rule 25.— Any person violating any of the above rules shall be deemed to have lost the match. VIRGINIA OR SOUTHERN RULES. Rule I. — On the morning the main is to commence the parties decide by lot who shows first. It is to be remembered that the party obtaining choice generally cIkjoscs to weigh first, and con- sequently obliges the adverse party to show first, as the party showing first weighs last. When the show is made by the party the door of the cock house is to be locked and the key given to the other party, who immediately repairs to his cock house and prepares for weighing. There ought to be provided a pair of good scales and weights as low down as half an ounce. One or two judges to be appointed to weigh the cocks. Each party by weigh- ing the cocks intended for the show a day or two beforehand and having all their respective weights, vvould greatly facilitate the business of the judges. There ought to be no feathers cut or plucked from the cocks before they are brought to the scale, ex- cept a few from behind to keep them clean, and their wings and tails clipped a little. Rule 2. — As soon as the cocks are all weighed the judge, the writers and the principals of each party and as many besides as the parties may agree upon, are to retire for the purpose cf match- ing. They are to be all even matches first, then those within one ounce, and afterwards those within two ounces ; but if more matches can be made by breaking an even or one ounce match, it is to be done. Rule 3.— On the day of the showing, only one battle is to be fought. It is to be remembered that the party winning the show gains also the choice of fighting this first battle with any par- ticular c cks in the match. Afterwards they begin with the liglit- est pair first and so on up to the heaviest, fighting them in rotation as they increase in weight. The first battle too, will fix the mode of trimming. S2 THE COCKER'S GUIDE. Artticle I. — When the cocks are in the pit, the judges are to ex- amine whether they are fairly trimmed and have fair heels. If all be right and fair, the pitters are to deliver their cocks six feet apart (or thereabouts) and retire a step or two back ; but if a wrong cock should be produced, the party so offending forfeits that battle. Art. 2. — All heels that are round from the socket to the point are allowed to be fair ; any pitter bringing a cock into the pit with any other kind of heels, except by particular agreement, forfeits the battle. Art. 3. — If either cock should be trimmed with a close, unfair back, the judge shall direct the other to be cut in the same man- ner, and at the time shall observe to the pitter that if he brings another cock in the like situation, unless he shall have been pre- viously trimmed, he shall forfeit the battle. Art. 4. — A pitter when he delivers his cock shall retire two paces back, and not advance or walk around his cock until a blow has passed. Art. 5. — An interval of — minutes shall be allowed between, the termination of one battle and the commencement of another. Art. 6. — No pitter shall pull a feather out of a cock's mouth or from over his eyes or head, or pluck him by the breast to make him fight, or punch him for the like purpose, under penalty of for- feiting the battle. Art. 7.— The pitters are to give the cocks room to fight, and arej not to hover and press on them so as to retard their striking. Art. 8. — The greasing, peppering, muffing and scoping a cock, or any other external application, are unfair practices, and by no, means admissible in this amusement. Art. 9. — The judges, when required, may suffer a pitter to call in some of his friends to assist in catching the cock, who are to re- tire immediately when the cock is caught, and in no other instance is the judge to suffer the pit to be broken. Art. id. — All cocks on their backs are to be immediately turned over on their bellies by their respective pttters at all times. Art. II. — A cock when down is to have a wing given him if he needs it, unless his adversary is on it, but his pitter is to place the wing gently in its proper position, and not to lift the cock ; and no wing is to be given unless absolutely necessary. THE COCKER'S GUIDE. 33 Art. 12. — If either cock should be hanged in himself, in the pit, or canvas, he is to be loosed by his pitter; but if in his adversary, both pitters are to immediately lay hold of their respective cocks, and the pitter whose cock is hung shall hold him steady while the adverse draws out the heel, and then they shall take their cocks asunder a sufficient distance for them fairly to renew the combat. Art. 13. — Should the cocks separate and the judge be unable to decide which fought last, he shall at his discretion direct the pit- ters to carry their cocks to the middle of the pit and deliver them back to back, unless either of them is blind ; in that case they are to be shouldered, that is, delivered with their breasts touching, each pitter taking care to deliver his cock at this, as well as at all times with one hand. Art. 14. — When both cocks cease fighting, it is then in the power of the pitter of the last fighting cock, unless they touch each other, to demand a count of the judges, who shall count forty de- liberately, which, when counted out, is not to be counted again during the battle. Then the pitters shall catch their cocks and carry them to the middle of the pit and deliver them beak to beak ; but to be shouldered if either are Wind as before. Then if either cock refuses or neglects to fight, the judge shall count ten, and shall direct the pitters to bring their cocks again fo the middle of the pit and pit as before ; and it the same cock in like manner re- fuses, he ««hall count ten again and call out "twice refused," and so proceed until one cock thus refuses six times successively. The judgj shall then determine the battle against such cock. Art. 15.— If either cock dies before the judge can finish the counting of the law, the battle is to be given to the living cock, and if both die, the longest liver wins the battle. Art. 16. —The pitters are not to touch their cocks whilst the judge is in the act of counting. Art. 17.— No pitter is ever to lay hold of his adversary's cock, unless to draw out the heel, and then he must take him below the knee. Then th^re shall be no second deliverv, that i-. after he is once delivered he shall not be touched until a blow is struck, un, less (ordered. Art. 18.— No pitter shall touch his cock unless at the time men- tioned in the foregoing rules. Art. 19.— If any pitter acts contrary to these rules, the judge, if called upon at the time, shall give the battle against him, 34 THE COCKER'S GUIDE. \SrESTERN RULES. Rule i. — All birds shall be weighed, give or take two ounces, shall be a match or otherwise if parties see fit to make it so. Rule 2. - All heels to be fought with shall round from socket to point, or as near so as can be made. Rule 3. — When a stag is matched against a cock, the stag will be entitled to four ounces advance in weight. Rule 4. — It shall be fair for handlers to pull feathers and sling blood, or any other thing to help the bird between handlings. Rule 5. — It shall be foul for A or B to touch their birds while fighting unless one is fast to the other, but if a bird should unfor- tunately fasten himself with his own heel it shall be fair to handle, but on no other consideration, and either handler violating or de- viating from the above rules shall lose his fight. Rule 6. — Thirty seconds shall be allowed between each and every round. Rule 7. — In counting, the bird showing fight last shall be en- titled to the count ; but if his handler refuse to take the count, the opposite handler shall be entitled to it. Rule 8. — The handler having the cou t shall pit his bird in his respective place when time is called, and count ten, then handle three more successive times ; when time is called again, the birds shall be placed in the center of the pit, breast to breast, and forty more counted, and if the bird not having the count refuse to fight, the one having it shall be the winner. Rule 9.— A peck or blow at the opponent's bird, and not at his handler, will be considered fighting. Rule 10. — When time is called, the handlers must let go their birds from their respective places f. ir and square, for it shall be foul for either handler to pitch or toss his bird rpon his opponent's, and either one violating the above rule shall lose his fight. Rule ii. — Each party shall choose a judge, and the judges choose a disinterested party as referee. No referee will be com- petent who has bet on either side, or is otherwise interested. Rule 12.— It shall be the duty of the judges and referee to watch all movements of the fights and jud^e according to the 7 HE COCKERS GUIDE 35 above rules. The referee will be confined to the opinions of the judges only, and his decision final. Rule 13. — It shall be the duty of the referee to keep time between the rounds and notify the handlers to get ready at twenty- five seconds, then call time at thirty seconds, when the handlers must be prompt in pitting their birds ; and if either handler refuse to do so, he shall lose the fight. PHILADELPHIA RULES. Article i. — The pit must be a ground floor, unless otherwise agreed to. Art. 2. — The cock or stag must be weighed enclosed in a small bag, and then two ounces deducted for the weight of the bag and feathers. A stag fighting a cock has an allowance of four ounces in weight, a blinker cock fighting a two-eyed one has four ounces; a blinker cock and a stag of one weight are a match. Art. 3, — The cocks being weighed and matched, you will cut them out ; you must cut the hackle with all the shiners off; you can use your own pleasure about cutting out other parts of your cock. Art. 4. — Your cock now being cut out you will heel him ; you can heel him with paper and water and nothing but that ; if you do you will lose the battle if the opposite party finds it out. Art. 5.— Your cock being heeled, you will bring him in the pit for battle ; you will bill the cocks one minute, and then put them down behind your scores for their battle. Art. 6. — In fighting a battle, according to Philadelphia Rules, when you deliver your cock on his score, you must stand back of him and not lean over him to hide him from the other cock. Art. 7. — A cock breaking with another cock is fight, and a cock picking at any time when on the ground is fight ; but picking while in your hands is not fight ; he must make fight after you de- live: him out of your hands. Art. 8. — When the cocks are fast, you must handle by my drawing your spur out of my cock and you drawing my spur out of your cock, you then have thiriy seconds to nurse your cock ; the judge will call "down cocks;" then you must strictly obey and put your cock down to renew the battle. In case one of the 36 THE COCKER'S GUIDE, cocks gets disabled, you can count him out ; you can lay your cock down on his wing on his score, and count ten without the other cock making fight ; you can handle him again, and so on until you count five tens ; then you can get ready to breast your cocks ; you must put them down on their feet and breast to breast, and if the crippled cock refuses to fight while the opposite handler counts twenty more, he has lost the battle. Art. 9. — You are not bound to lay your cock on his wing, you can use your pleasure whether to lay him on his wing or on his feet ; if it is to your advantage for your cock to fight, put him down on his feet and let him fight. Art. 10. — In counting a cock out, after you breast the cocks and you are counting twenty, if the cock should ge^ in the disabled cock, you dare not put your hand on them unless the disabled cock makes fight ; and if he does make fight, you can handle, and by his making fight it will renew all the counting from the first, and if the disabled cock should make fight last it is his count. Art. II. — The judges cut the heels off, and if all is right you must get ready for the next battle ; you are allow^ed twenty minutes to be in the pit with the next cock. The judges are to keep the time. Art. 12. — All outside bets go as the main stakes. Art. 13. — Any man not paying bets that he lost will not be allowed in any pit in Philadelphia hereafter. ENGLISH RULES. 1. That every person show and put his cock into the pit with a fair hackle^ not too near shorn, or out, nor with any other fraud. 2. That every cock fight as he is first shown in the pit, without shearing or cutting any feathers afterwards, except with the con- sent of both the masters of the match. 3. When both cocks are set down to fight, and one of them runs away before t:iey have struck three mouthing blows, it is adjudged no battle to the persons who bet. 4. No persons to set.t<» but those who are appointed by the mas- ters of the malch. THE COCKER'S GUIDE. 37 5. When a cock shall come setting-to, and both cocks refuse to fight ten times successively according to the law, then a fresh cock shall be hoveled, and the masters of the match must agree which of them shall turn the cock down ; after that, if both fight, or both refuse, to be deemed a drawn battle ; but if one should fight, and the other refuse, the battle to be allowed won ly the fighting cock. 6. After the person appointed by the masters to tell the law shall have told twice twenty, the cocks to be set-to, beak to beak if they both see, but if either be blind, then the blind cock to touch ; and on their refusing to fight, the person aopointed as before is to tell ten between each setting-to, till one of the cocks has refused to fi.ght ten times successively. 7. When ten pounds to a crown are laid on the battle, and not taken, after twice twenty is told, the battle is determined as won by that cock the odds are on. 8. That no person shall make any cavil or speech about match- ing of cocks, either to matchers or owners, after the cocks are once put together. 9. A master of a match has a right to remove any person out of the lower ring. 10. No person can make a confirmed bet void without mutual consent, 11. Bets to be paid on clear proof by creditable witnesses, even though they have not been demanded immediately after the battle is over. 12. It is recommended that all disputes be finally determined by the masters of the match, and two other gentlemen whom they shall appoint ; and in case the four cannot agree, then they shall fix on a fifth, whose determination shall be final. GAME COCKS-FAMOUS BREEDS. GAFTS, HEELING, ETC. There never was a time when interest in game fowl was so universally felt as at present. The country, especially New Jersey, New York, Long Island, and the New England States, seems to be flooded svith the different strains of show and pit fowl, and to say that any breeder has stock that will not take their death THE HEATHWOOD. in the pit would be an unpardonable offence, the penalty of which varies according to the size of the pocketbook of the gentleman who considers himself slandered. Cock fighting dates back for centuries, and it is vulgarly im- agined that the game cock is the offspring of the domesticated fowl and the pheasant. This idea is, however, not assented to by THE COCKER'S GUIDE. jg ornithologists or the amateurs of the art of cocking. Pliny, the historian, says that cock fighting was usually practiced by Per- gamus, a city in Asia. The Athenians practiced it at an annual festival in the time of the great general, Themistocles, who en- couraged his soldiers to acts of bravery by admonishing them to imitate the example of the cock. Euboea and Chalcis were famous for their breeds of game cocks; they were large, such as our own specimens of the game cock raised and bred in the South. THE IRISH SLASHER. At Alexandria, Egypt, they had a breed of hens, according to George H. Butler of New York, that produced the best fighting cocks in the world. The Romans fought quail, and it is an historical fact that they were the first to introduce the sport of cock fighting in England, although the game cock was in England before Caesar's arrival in Albion. During the reign of Henry VIII., in England, cock fighting was all the rage, and daily there were battles between the feathered 40 THE COCKER'S GUIDE. warriors. The famous cock pit, known as the Westminster pit, was established near where the houses of Parliament now stand. In the reign of Charles IT. cock fighting figured conspicuously as one of the sports that received royal patronage, and it was during Charles II.'s reign that famous breed of pyle cocks was first intro- duced, and was for many years held in high estimation, and even at the present time are much liked and preferred. In Cuba, San Domingo, Mexico, and nearly all tropical climates at the present day, cock fighting is one of the institutions of the land. THE DERBY COCK, In this country, ever since 1812, cock fighting has been one of the popular sports of the winter, and decades ago important mains were fought, and some of the leading lights of the political and social world kept their famous breeds and engaged in mains upon which depended thousands of dollars. August Belmont, James Gordon Bennett, Col. Daniel McDanicls, Col. Hunter, John Mor- rissey, Thomas Hcathwood, John Franklin, Harry Genet, and others equally as well known, have owned game fowls and fought mains upon which thousands were wagered, The COCKER'S guide. 4i Cock fighting in this country in 1867 was a national institution. Thousands of dollars were expended in breeding, training and crossing game fowls, but the organization of the cruelty to animal associations and the crusade by Henry Bergh against cock fighting helped to partially put a stop to the sport. The well-bred game fowl is the very embodiment of courage, and no one who admires this desirable quality in anything can help admiring the proud, haughty carriage and noble ways bf THE DOMINICK. these birds, while their handsomely marked bodies make them still further objects of interest. Aside from their appearance, they are a really valuable breed to raise, though they should have ample range to secure their best qualities. Among the old breeds of game fowls known years ago in this country were the Dominicks, John Long (Southern breed), Genets, Waltons, Storey, Morrissey, Ludlow and Heathwood's Champions, Garibaldi Trot- ters, Dare Devils, Madcaps, Ironclads, Tornadoes, Tartans, Earth- quakes, Hurricane and Counterfeits, Derbys and Mulhollands. 42 THE COCKER'S GUIDE. The names of new strains of fowl are continually springing up, and every breeder who makes a cross seen s anxious to outstyle his rivals in giving them some name by which to strike terror, without the gafts, to the heart of any fowl they happen to be pitted against in battle array. Now, if some of the above names are not sufficient to strike terror to the gamest bird in the world, what is? ^till, the parties who make a business of fighting game fowls and who breed these different strains of fowl appear to be doing a profitable business in THE STONE FENCE. New Jersey, New York and New England, and in fact all parts of the United States ; and the buyers, when they fight their fowls in mains and happen to lose their money on " a duffer " or a run- away, they simply swear at their misfortune and hard luck, and when they next desire to purchase, they try the next advertiser, who is trying to excel his neighbor in the selection of heart-rend- ing names. A first-class fighting cock has eyes sparkling with fire, boldness in his demeanor and freedom in his motions, and displays force in his proportions. THE COCKERS GUIDE. 43 The general outline of the finest game cock, taken as a whole, approaches that of a lengthened cone or sngar-loaf shape, exclud- ing the legs and tail, the apex of the cone being the head, and the base being the ^'ent and the belly. Under such external form may exist the best prop<')rtion of the fighting cock. In cock fighting, after the fowls have been trained prior to a main, shake bag, or battle royal, the fowls are trimmed for the pit. This is an operation known as cutting out. It is done after the we'ghing in process, and tends to give the cock greater force and activity in the pit. THE ESLIN COCK. Cutting out consists in trimming the neck and hackle feathers close from the head to his shoulders, and clipping off all the feathers from his tail close to his rump. The wings are then ex- tended, and they are clipped from the first feather in a sloping way, leaving sharp points, so that in rising he may endanger the eyes of his adversary. Of late years this practice is not followed, and most fowls are required to be shown in full feather One of the principal points in preparing a cock to enter the pit is the heeling. The rules fur heeling are to fit the heel of the gaft tightly to the stub, having the point just pass outside or back 44 THE COCKERS GUIDE. of the leg, and fastening it tightly while in that position. It is then necessary for the handler's assistant to hold the leg heeled, turn the fowl and proceed to heel the other in the same manner, with the point occupying a similar position. In heeling fowls in this manner it gives them a great advantage, and makes them be able to do effective cutting in the body and neck ; also enabling them to bring down their opponents with TARTAR GAME COCK. either a broken wing or leg. A fowl fighting for the head and neck exclusively requires a much closer heeling ; to accomplish which, if the heel is to be placed on the right leg, set it so that the point will be on a line with the centre of the slight hollow per- ceptible in the upper joint of the right leg. The point of the heel on the left leg should be placed on a line with the outside of the upper joint of the left leg. THE COCKER'S GUIDE. 45 The Heathwood is one of the most famous breeds that was ever in this country. The Heathwoods are a noted strain of games, named after Thomas Ileaihwood, of Lowell, Mass. They breed various colors and weigh from 4^^^ to 6 pounds. They are remark- ably quick fighters, fighting with force and vigor, stand up well, and are liberally possessed of bone and muscle. The Irish Slasher is a favorite breed, being desperate fighters, fighting as well on their opponent's hold as their own. They are THE TORNADO, CHAMPION GAME COCK OF MICHIGAN, excellent in the pit, mature early, fight rapidly, and possess good wind and endurance. The Derby cock is a fanious English breed, which was years ago imported. The Dominick breed is well known in the North and South, where breeders and cockers place great faith in it, although it is not held in high esteem in the North. They are quick, skillful fighters, are of good size, well made, and stand up well on their legs, which are either white or yellow. 46 THE COCKER'S GUIDE. The Stone Fence breed has been claimed to have been kept in purity for more than five decades. They were formerly raised by the Arlington family in North Carolina, and the Stone Fence breed still figures in important mains in the South as well as in the North. The Eslin cock famous breed originated at Washington, and was bred by the Eslin family, from which it takes its name. It is oi fine plumage and weighs from five to seven pounds. The Tartar strain is one of the best ever known. It is in hun- dreds of mains and shake bags. These cocks are unflinching game. They have a large breast, heavy-limbed claws, and large red eyes. The " Tornado " is one of the best specimens of the game fowl in Michigan. He has a way of handling an adversary from the start that is pleasing to witness, and does not stop to rest until his work is done. It is seldom a bird lives to win so many hard bat- tles in the pit, and deserves the position he now holds. He is a pure Tornado, bred and originated by his owner, and i? a com- bination of several good crosses, which are perfect. This cock is a fine, well stationed black red, and is to all outward appearance a good one. DESCRIPTION OF GAFFS. There are six different styles of steel gaffs at present used in cock fighting. In Fig. i are shown what are styled the regulation gaff. These are used in cock fighting in the North, and are considered the fairest and best ^'^^' i- heel in use for all purposes, being nearly straight and perfectly round from the socket to point with a short, round socket varying but little from the Singlelon, which is also very much in use. The gaffs shown in Fig. 2 arc extensively used by heelers. The socket is light, short and round, with the spur nearly straight, round'ng from the lower part. These s^urs are con- sidered the fairest in use. They can be Fig, 2, obtained of any desired length, from one THE COCKER'S GUIDE. 47 inch and a quarter to one inch and three-quarters in length. In Fig. 3 the gaffs differ both ia weight, size and pattern from either the Regulation or Singleton style. The socket is heavy, long and while deep, the spur curls upward in. a murderous 1^"^*^^ curve from the bottom of the socket. It Fig. 3. is a favorite with many handlers, and cannot be barred from any pit. The gaffs represented in Fig. 4 are principally used in the West, and many of the advantages claimed for it are possessed by no oihef spun The* [,' socket is thimble shaped, with no Open- ing at the end, constituting the only Fig. 4. essential difference from other heels. It is claimed that by filling up the socket, the heel is removed farther from the leg, giving the fowl greater purchase in striking and slashing its adversary. The full drop socket spurs, shown in Fig. 5 are the most brutal and murderous weapons used in cock fighting. The blade comes directly from the back and lower part of the socket and, dropping, throws the gaffs even with the foot. In using these terrific FiG. 5. slashers, leather is frequently placed on the under part of the socket to make the drop greater. These gaffs are generally used in Georgia, North Carolina and the great cities of the South, where cock fighting is all the rage, also in Cuba and Mexico, but they are not used in Ohio, Pennsylvania or Northern cities. The half drop socket gaffs are shown in Fig. 6. They differ from the full drop socket in having the blade come directly from the front part of the socket with a less long and deep drop. Fig. 6. 4B THE COCKER'S GUIDE. A GOOD SYSTEM. It is a very difficult thing to persuade farmers and others to adopt a good system of keeping game fowls. Shows may bej visited, and the fine specimens seen tliere may be admired, but al lesson is not learned, and the farmer continues to keep his mongrels in his old fashioned way, without a single effort to change them or to improve the system on which he works. Sup- posing we take an example of an ordinary farmer and see what his system is. We find that he keeps from 60 to 100 hens of no particular breed, or perhaps it would be more correct to say desti-l tute of breed. If we could investigate their ages, we might find that some are six or seven years old, the majority four to five, and a few from one to three years. At all events, the major por- tion will have seen their best days, and be returning what does not pay for their food. The farmer's argument, of course, is that he receives so much weekly for eggs, and that the fowls cost him nothing, inasmuch as they only get their tail corn. These fowls are, perhaps, housed wherever they can find a beam or rafter to roost upon. The hen house is either a msss of filth or it is ex- posed to every wind that blows, as well as every shower, and consequently the fowls forsake it, and as a matter of course their eggs are laid on all parts of the farm. Some are lost, others stolen, and others broken and spoiled. To make poultiy keeping a success all this should not be. It is all very well to assume that, because fowls consume the tail corn, they do not cost any- thing ; but that corn has its value, and would sell well, and surely return more than it does by being given to the birds, and again, it would return a larger percentage if given under a good system and to good birds of proper breed and of a proper age. The best plan to show a farmer what his loss is or what his gain might be is to value his run for a year. It is very well known that in some parts farmers let the dairy for so much to a cow keeper. This includes stabling for the cows, meadow, hay, straw, etc., for THE COCKER'S GUIDE. 40 a certain number. The cowkeeper simply pro\ides his own cows, milks them, sells his milk, and out of the proceeds pays his rent. If he cares to give an extra food, such as cake or corn, he does so at his own cost, and reaps a result in additional milk. Upon the same principle a farmer might let a yard to a person to run a cer- tain number of fowls, which should be entitled to all they picked up and the whole of the tail corn. An experienced poultry keeper would know how to value this privilege, and if, for example, he estimated it and made a farmer an offer of a certain amount, he would no doubt astonish him. At all events, the idea would show the farmer whether he was losing or making money by keeping poultry himself, and disabuse him of the idea that all he made was profit. A farmer who is determined to make the most of every branch of his farm — and of course would include poultry and game fowls — would commence well ; his birds would necessarily he judic- iously selectod both as to age and breed ; he would see that regular attention was devoted to them, just as it is upon all stock farms to the cows and calves, lambs and colls. Who ever hears of a farmer inquiring whether the hens are all roosting in their house, seeing that it is thoroughly cleaned out or lime washed.? He considers it beneath his notic-?. He would provide a properly made and well arranged building, which would be periodically cleaned out and whitewashed. The nest boxes would be properly made, and the perches placed at the proper height and made the required width. The whole would be made vermin-proof and at stated times it would be visited at night to see that all is safe and the hens are none of them missing. Without attention being paid just as regularly as it is to other stock, poultry cannot be expected to pay. It does not necessarily take much lime, but the master's eye must be upon it and he must see that all is done that is required. If it is right to give pigs and cows additional warmth, better food and housing, surely the same principle should apply in deal- JO THE COCKER'S GUIDE. ing with poultry. Some animals feed all night as well as all day, and in this respect winter makes no difference to them ; but with fowls it is quite different, for the poor things have to combat severe weather and long hours without food, and yet they are expected to be productive. Long, cold winter nights are enough to give disease to any fowl in the world when its stomach is empty and it has nothing to supply artificial warmth ; but no one seems to think of this. In the month of December, for instance, feeding must take place soon after ^our, and it cannot well be repeated until seven the next morning at the earliest, and on cold mornings that is in all probability eight, so that the birds' last meal has to last ihem sixteen hours out of the twenty-four. This is not as it should be, and our opinion is that feeding should be equalized, and, above all, the birds should have ample sustenance in the night to enable them to withstand cold ; it is more important than the day feeding, because then they are active and find a great deal of food. We can only say that if we kept a farm and intended to supply eggs to the markets our first idea would be to arrange a system of night feeding in winter, so that the birds would have food enough at the last meal to carry them on well to the morning. Stimulated food would then do wonders, more than warmed houses and all the artificial heating we hear about. In the summer time there is no necessity, for the hours of daylight permit of three times feeding, say at six a. m., at two o'clock and at eight o'clock at night. We know very well that many of the finest birds have been reared to their size in this way. This feeding has won many prizes and improved breeds, and, depend upon it, would increase the number of eggs laid by a very large number, and when the system has been well adopted it will not be found to be very irksome. In selecting a brood cock it is best to pick one weighing from six to seven and one-half pounds on the walk, as they are apt to be better birds than heavier or lighter ones. They should be high -stationed, but not stilty, with a long, large neck bone ai.d THE COCKER'S GUIDE. j/ short hackle, medium-sized, bright red head, with large, full eyes, beak short and stout, curved or hooked, with a short, quick crow, broad across the shoulders, tapering to the tail, the tail long and strong and carried open a little above the horizontal position, shallow between the breast and back with long, strong, bony wings carried puffed out at the butts and a little dropped at the points, long thigh and large muscle, leg medium, flat or hollow ground spur, low toward the foot, toes long and thin, a quick lively fighter, fierce in battle and ready at any moment to defend his hens. Let the hens turn t'-e scales well up to the standard, say four or four and a half pounds ; have them perfect in form, the larger the bet- ter, as all breeders know that the hen is the parent that gives wind and muscle to the stags and cocks. Having used the utmost care in the selection of your hens and brood-cock, you at once take them to a place where there are no other fowl, and where they can have sufficient care and attention. Your coops should be large, airy and properly ventilated, and in order to keep clear from lice should have occasionally a coat of whitewash, and the perches should be made from sassafras trees. Plenty of fresh water and a change of food frequently have a ten- dency to make the hens lay early in the season, a very important feature, I assure you, as the earlier you get the chicks out, the la ger and stronger the stags are when needed, which usually comes about Thanksgiving time or about the holidays— Christmas and New Year. Yo\\\ need a grand run as they do much better than when cooped up, and if there is a stream of water running through the grounds, it will be found exceedingly beneficial. Too much im- portance cannot be paid to this matter, as fowls, especially games, require the cooling stream to wet their parched throats in the wa:"m, sultry days of mid-summer, and the little chicks need shelter from the scorching sun under the shade trees and arbor vines. For a change of food, a small portion of raw beef cut in small pieces and fed occasionally is proper. A few onions chop- j-j- THE COCKER'S GUIDE. ped fine seems to act as a tonic, and keeps them free from disease; now and then a bit of fresh fish does no harm ; on the contrary it seems to sharpen their appetite, and when the change comes from whole and cracked corn, they appear to take to it with a keen reh'sh. One of the best feeds on a very cold day is a hot mash, made of boiled potatoes mixed with shorts, with a little red pep- per. It is but natural that fowl require a change of food as well as every other living object. In collecting your eggs for setting, care should be taken not to handle or shake them too much, as it injures the yolk, thus spoil- ing them for any practical purpose. In selecting eggs most people make a mistake by thinking the larger the egg the better ; a small G^^ nine cases out of ten, will have a larger chicken than a large egg. A long egg with a large butt-end, one that tapers off with a true taper to the small end should be selected, chickens coming from such eggs more often have large and full breasts, conse- quently i here is plenty of room for the lungs to expand, and this insures good wind, if the cocks are properly worked, when being conditioned, a very important point when it comes to a longbattk-, which often occurs when short heels are used. The eggs should be kept in corn bran, with small end down, although there are many cockers who keep them in cotton batting, one layer of egi^s and then one layer of batting, and occasionally turning them over, say every few days, until you are ready to set them. The more care some people seem to take with their eggs the worse luck they have in hatching them. This is often the fault of the brood-cock and not the breeders ; then again hens cooped up do not do as well as those who have a good large run. Another thing which is inadvisable is to set eggs laid after the hen has commenced to cluck and run from the cock, for it would be but natural for a chicken from such an e.^g to turn and run :n a hard fight. Many old and reliable cockers firmly believe this to be a fact, the reason for which will suggest itself at once. In set- ting your eggs, select a warm, dry place, and arrange your nests THE COCKERS GUIDE. 53 so that the hen can get on and off easily. This will cause her to feed frequently. Have plenty of dry sand conveniently near, as the hen likes to get oft and wallow in the sand after taking her feed and water, which, by the way, should always be near the nest. An ordinary butter-tub, cheese-box or halfbairel make good places to set eggs. The nest should be made of clean straw, with a sprinkling of cedar shavings ; the latter prevents the breed- ing of lice or other vermin. As the time grows near, say the last week for the eggs to hatch, it will be well to sprinkle them with cool water three or four times ; this will make the shells pip and burst open easy at the proper time, thus giving the chicks much easier work in freeing themselves from the shell. Many use warm water, but cool water is decidedly the best, as it seems to refresh the little fellows and give them strength even in t' eir enclosure. After the hen has hatched all her chickens, leave them on the nest twenty-four hours at least, then remove her to a dry place and coop her on the ground ; my coops are without bottoms, for from floors the toes get crooked. Feed them for the first two weeks on what they will eat of soft food, but do not give them any more than they can eat at one time. An egg boiled hard and cut fine, with some soaked cracker mixed, together with a little black pepper occasionally, does nicely. Now and then a change to oat meal mixed with a little milk is excellent feed. Then, when they get to be large enough, give them cracked corn, oats, and whole corn, and you will find them making rapid progress. You must take special pains to keep them free from lice when young, and although there are plenty of remedies, among the most simple ones are Persian insect powder, and another is a com- pound of olive oil, 6 oz., and sassafras, % oz. Grease the hen and little chicks around the head and under the wings, and you will find that lice and fleas will disappear at once, as this is a deadly poison to them and they will not stay where it is. Game chickens are extremely sensitive, care should be taken of them while young. 34 ' THE COCKER'S GUIlfE. Tom Heath wood, of Lowell, Mass., the originator of the famous Heathwoods, probably the best breed of game fowls in America, thus writes authoratively on the game cock, he says: Game fowls do very well if they have the free range of a farm, but when winter comes they will only lay once in a while. Take the same fowls and care for them as they should be cared for both winter and summer, and you will be astonished at the difference in Q^^^ production. Extra care and feed not only produces more but better eggs. In the first place hens must be free from lice and in good health. Construct your houses good and warm, so as to avoid damp floors and afford a flood of sunshine. Sunshine is better than medicine. Provide a dusting and fresh water or milk daily, and never allow them to go thirsty. Feed them systemat- ically two or three times a day, and scatter the grain so that they cannot eat too fast or without proper exercise. Do not feed more tlian they will eat, or they will get tired of that kind of food. Give soft feed in the morning and grain at night. Cooked meal or vegetables mixed with bran, a teaspoonful of charcoal and a little red pepper is a good morning meal, and three-fourths corn and one-fourth wheat or screenings is good for evening. I once knew a man who fed whole red peppers to his fowls to make them savage, but I never saw any evidence of its working on them in that way ; but it is very good to keep the fowls in good condition, those breeders of poultry who have cows can supply their fowls with milk, and it is very good for laying hens. Most of the refuse milk generally goes to the pigs, and no doubt benefits them greatly* but it would pay better to turn it into chick'^n flesh instead, unless you have encugh for both Sweet or sour, thick or not, the fowls and chicks relish it and should have a supply kept in a convenient place. It is not absolutely necessary that game fowls should thus be taken care of. They may be left out of doors to roost on trees or fences and they may get along all right ; but it is always best to be sure your fowls are all right, as a little extra care will be more than repaid by better results. THE COCKER'S GUID^; Jj A VARIETY OF FOOD. In winter, when Jack Frost demands so much heat to counter- balance his icy touch, we must keep our fowls comfortably warm, and feed them on such food as will supply the requisite amount of heat. It is true, corn is a most excellent winter food, in connec- tion with other grain, to enable the stock to successfully withstand the c