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THow to flfcake Battenberg 
 ano point Xace 
 
 BY 
 
 NELLIE CLARK BROWN 
 
 Published by 
 
 THE PRISCILLA PUBLISHING COMPANY 
 
 BOSTON, MASS. 
 
MRS 6 1l 
 
 5G910 8tCUNU«-OHV. 
 
 
 Copyright, iqoo 
 
 By The Priscilla Publishing Company 
 
 Boston, Mass. 
 
How to Make Battenberg and Point Lace* 
 
 $ 
 
 Selection of Materials. 
 
 jHE same rules and instruction apply- 
 to Battenberg and modern point lace. 
 The latter, being much the finer and 
 more delicate, requires more time and 
 patience. Both deserve equal care. 
 
 Braid and Thread. 
 
 The pattern being chosen, select a smooth linen 
 braid. Great care should be taken to avoid getting 
 a cotton braid. The beauty and value of many a 
 piece of Battenberg lace has been lessened because 
 it was made with a cotton braid. 
 
 The working thread, as well as all other parts 
 of the wtrk, should always be linen. There are 
 various lace threads that are jjood, and each has 
 its friends. Some of the threads that are so 
 slightly twisted as to resemble floss are good for 
 the filling of rings, and, when a soft, indefinite 
 effect is desired, is the right thing for their cover- 
 ing of buttonhole stitch or crochet. When it is 
 desired to have each thread in the covering of the 
 ring stand out distinctly, thread more tightly 
 twisted should be used. For overcasting the braid, 
 Nos. 70 or 80 may be used, while for the filling-in 
 stitches, Nos. 40 to 60 should be selected, according 
 to the degree of fineness desired in the work. The 
 -narrow braid calls for a finer thread than the 
 wider braid requires. None of the cotton threads 
 should be used for any part of the permanent 
 work. To avoid knots and tangles in the working- 
 thread, the needle should always be threaded from 
 the right end of the thread, and before working 
 the thread should be drawn through the thumb 
 and finger of the left hand to lessen its liability to 
 twist and tangle. 
 
 For needle point lace the best thread is the 
 "Petit Moulin" linen lace thread, manufactured 
 for the purpose in France. This thread may be 
 had in numbers from 30 to 1500. For the very 
 finest lace, Nos. 1000 to 1500 should be used, 
 while for doilies and handkerchiefs it is advisable 
 to use a slightly heavier thread. Nos. 600 to 1000 
 are good. In making Honiton and princess lace, 
 Nos. 400 to 600 are most effective. The coarser 
 threads are excellent for Battenberg lace. 
 
 1 
 
 This thread comes in balls, varying in size from 
 the tiny ball of No. 1500 to the large ball of No. 
 30. Arouud the outside is pasted a ring of stiff 
 paper, which serves as a protector for the thread, 
 and keeps it free from soil. This paper should 
 not be removed, but the thread should be used 
 from the centre of the ball. On one side of the 
 ball is a thread passing across from the centre to 
 the circumference. By pulling this thread an end 
 is discovered, and the ball unwinds from the in- 
 side in the fashion of most balls of thread and 
 twine. It is advisable to put the ball into a little 
 box, through a puncture in the lid of which the 
 thread may be drawn without risk of soil or injury. 
 Thread bags of various kinds may be used instead 
 of the box. 
 
 Rings. 
 
 Very excellent rings may be bought read)- for 
 use, but many ladies prefer to make them. For 
 their use a very handy little ring gauge has been 
 invented, and is shown in miniature in Fig. 1. 
 This provides for the making of rings 
 in six different sizes, and permits of 
 their being made of any thickness de- 
 sired. The thread or floss is wound 
 around the chosen section of the ring 
 gauge a sufficient number of times, 
 perhaps twenty, to make the ring of 
 the necessary thick- 
 ness. The thread or 
 floss should be loose 
 enough to allow of its 
 being overcast. To do 
 this, thread a needle 
 and pass it repeatedly 
 around the roll of 
 threads by pushing 
 the needle between the threads and the ring gauge. 
 When it is closely overcast, push the thread ring 
 carefully off the ring gauge without marring its 
 circular shape. To do this successfully, give it a 
 series of little pushes with the thumb around and 
 around its circumference until it slips off. It is 
 now a ring of threads held in place by the over- 
 casting thread which is coiled around it. It may 
 
 Fro. l. Ring Gauge and Button- 
 holed Ring fob Battenbekg 
 and Point Lace. 
 
now be finished in either one or two ways. It 
 may be covered with a close row of buttonhole 
 stitches, and so resemble the ready-made ring, or 
 it may be covered with a close row of single 
 crochet. The end may be fastened by passing it 
 through the threads of the ring. If the needle is 
 thrust through the body of the ring, and carries 
 the thread a short distance from the finishing 
 place, and then with another stitch returns to its 
 starting-point, the end will be safely secured. To 
 
 make the rings exactly alike, care should be taken 
 to have the thread circle the ring gauge exactly 
 the same number of times in each. ring. 
 
 Rings for the needle point lace should be very 
 slender and delicate. The thread should be wound 
 around the gauge from four to eight or ten times, 
 then overcast and buttonholed. Crochet is not 
 practical for these dainty rings. When a substi- 
 tute for the ring gauge is desired, bone knitting- 
 needles, pencils, or tiny glass bottles may be used. 
 
 Basting and Overcasting. 
 
 aHE first work is basting the braid to the 
 pattern. In most patterns the braid is 
 represented by a double line. In bast- 
 ing, one edge of the braid should follow 
 the outer line of the pattern, and the basting 
 threads should be placed through the open edge of 
 the braid and upon the outer line of the pattern 
 designating the braid. When the progress of the 
 pattern changes the outer line or curve, to which 
 you have been basting, to the inner curve, the 
 basting thread should be carried across the braid 
 as is shown in the illustration (Fig. 2), and the 
 basting continued along what is now the outer 
 curve. 
 
 FIG. 2. METHOD OF BASTING BRAID IN BATTENBERG AND 
 
 Point Lace. 
 
 The basting stitches should be rather close and 
 short, and should be drawn tightly so as to hold 
 the braid firmly to its place. Should the basting 
 stitches be loose, the putting in of the lace stitches 
 will inevitably draw the braid from its place on 
 the pattern and spoil the perfection of the lines 
 and curves of the design. 
 
 Back stitching is neither necessary nor advis- 
 able. The forward stitches taken closely and 
 firmly will hold the braid securely, and are easy 
 
 to remove. Braid that is back stitched to the pat- 
 tern makes an unnecessarily tedious task of the 
 separating of the work from the pattern just at 
 the time when the completion of the stitches makes 
 the worker unusually eager to see the work com- 
 pleted. 
 
 Never under any circumstances should any but 
 a straight length of braid be basted through the 
 middle. Should the braid be basted through the 
 middle when following a curve, it is almost im- 
 possible not to draw it too tight, and as a result 
 the outer edge will curl up and utterly spoil the 
 work, as no amount of care in placing the stitches 
 can make right a piece of work where the outer 
 edge of the braid around a curve rises in its might, 
 and reaches longingly towards its opposite and 
 inner edge. 
 
 Turning Corners. 
 
 Great care should be observed in turning corners, 
 and various methods are employed for corners of 
 different angles. In an obtuse corner (Fig. 3, a), 
 or one so broad and shallow as to be almost a curve, 
 it is only necessary to follow the outer curve of the 
 pattern of the braid, and allow the resulting fulness 
 to remain loose until the overcasting stitches draw 
 it down into shape. 
 
 In sharp or acute angles (Fig. 3, b) the braid may 
 be basted to the extreme point of the angle, and 
 the fulness folded over, so the fold will lie along 
 the edge of the braid, as the basting is continued 
 along the second side of the point. 
 
 In a sharp angle the fold of the braid may also 
 be turned under (Fig. 3, c), the fold being so regu- 
 lated that its ends reach from the exact point of 
 the outer edge of the braid or pattern to the exact 
 
point of the inner edge. This forms a niitered 
 corner and divides the point exactly in halves. 
 
 Still another way (Fig. 3, d) is applicable to an 
 angle of any degree, but it cuts off the end of the 
 point. In this method, when the point is ap- 
 proached, the braid is simply turned over upon 
 itself at the angle necessary to allow the braid 
 upon either side of the fold to follow the line of 
 the design. 
 
 Fig. 3. Method of Basting Battenberg and Point Lace 
 Braid on Corners and Cubves. 
 
 In all cases the point of the braid should be 
 securely fastened to the pattern in such a way 
 that its end will not stand out from the pattern 
 and form a hook or projection, around which the 
 working thread will be prone to catch at the risk 
 of pricked fingers, tangled thread, and stitches 
 dragged out of shape. A stitch or two carried 
 from the point of the braid to the pattern beyond 
 will hold all points securely and will repay the 
 care expended many times. Hurried basting, with 
 loose points and corners, often results in great loss 
 of time and perfection of work. 
 
 Scallops and Loops. 
 
 Where the pattern contains a series of overlap- 
 ping scallops or loops, with one width of braid 
 between them (Fig. 3, e), the braid should not be 
 3ut but doubled back upon itself. Baste the 
 braid upon the outer edge of the design until it 
 reaches the braid that checks its course. Turn it 
 back upon itself so that the fold just touches the 
 other braid and may be overcast to it. Let the 
 edge of the returning braid follow the outer line 
 of the pattern of the next scallop or loop. 
 
 Where the design of the pattern contains a series 
 }f scallops or loops on either side of a central fig- 
 are (Fig. 3, e) the braid may be put on with the 
 
 foldings in the order in which they come, but this 
 destroys the similarity of the two sides. A better 
 appearance is obtained by having the two siiles 
 similar. In tinning the braid back upon itself 
 at the end or top of the loop, it is brought »<•<•/• 
 the already basted braid of the preceding loop. 
 On the opposite side it is best to turn the braid 
 under the side of the preceding loop. This must 
 be done before the basting of the preceding loop is 
 completed. 
 
 Upon reaching the point where the two braids 
 diverge, the end of the braid nearest the bastings 
 is taken in the fingers of the left hand, and with 
 the fingers of the right hand is doubled back or 
 under that held in the left hand. Lay the doubled 
 braid down upon the pattern, being sure that it is 
 just sufficiently long to reach the end of the loop 
 or scallop. One row of basting fastens the two 
 layers of braid into place. It is best to cut the 
 braid as seldom as possible, and this method of 
 turning back the braid saves many cuttings, ami 
 presents a much neater appearance than when it 
 is cut at every opportunity. 
 
 Overcasting'. 
 
 After the braid has all been carefully basted 
 into place, the full inner edges of the curves must 
 also be brought into place. To do this they must- 
 be overcast with a very fine linen thread. This 
 overcasting thread should pass over and over the 
 edge of the braid and into each of its marginal 
 loops. Only occasionally, on very large, slightly 
 curved lines, may a loop be here and there omitted. 
 
 On the edges of spaces to be filled with twisted 
 bars, spiders, wheels, and other similar stitches 
 where the working thread must pass from point 
 to point along the edge of the braid, the overcast- 
 ing may be omitted, and the passage of the working 
 thread utilized to draw the braid into place as it 
 proceeds in its course of completing the stitch. 
 Familiarity with the work will show when the 
 work of overcasting may in this way be lessened. 
 The overcasting thread should not be drawn tight 
 enough to draw the braid from its place on the 
 pattern, but it should be tight enough to hold 
 the inner gathered edge smoothly down to the 
 pattern, where it must fit as flatly as its opposite 
 outer edge. 
 
 Whenever the overcasting thread reaches a place 
 where two edges of the braid meet or cross, the 
 needle should be passed through both braids, either 
 
ill a simple overcasting stitch or with a single 
 buttonhole knot. When the thread passes from 
 one side to the other of two braid edges the thread 
 should connect them at both sides. 
 
 When in the course of the overcasting the curve 
 of the braid changes, and the inner curve becomes 
 the outer one, a buttonhole stitch should be taken 
 in the edge of the braid at the point where the 
 curve changes and the thread carefully woven 
 through the braid to its opposite side, where 
 another buttonhole stitch should be taken and the 
 overcasting continued. 
 
 Cutting the Braid. 
 
 Where, the ends of a braid meet at a corner, or 
 other place having no other braid to hide the junc- 
 ture, fold the end of the under braid up and the 
 end of the upper braid down, and lay the one upon 
 the other. Overcast them together at the end of 
 both braids. The beginning of the basting of the 
 braid to the design, as well as the joining of two 
 ends, should occur at the crossing of two braids. 
 Pass the second braid over the end of the first, and 
 when you again reach that point in the design put 
 tin- second end under the overlying braid with the 
 first. This makes the upper side the right side. 
 
 If it is desired to have the under side of the 
 work, or the side next the pattern, the right side, 
 the manner of procedure should be reversed, and 
 the two ends placed over the other braid. These 
 ends should be either turned over and hemmed 
 down neatly, or very carefully overcast to the other 
 braid, that no ragged edges may be seen on either 
 side. The folding over of the ends makes the 
 work a. little thicker just at that point, and is 
 more easily noticed than the other finish, which, if 
 carefully done, is hardly visible, and is especially 
 fitted for the finer laces. 
 
 Basting the Rings to the Pattern. 
 
 When basting on the rings it is well to remem- 
 ber that the basting threads have to lie removed 
 later. Only enough are needed to hold the ring 
 in place If the needle is thrust through the 
 ring four times, twice downwards and twice up- 
 wards, it is sufficient. As the rings are not exactly 
 alike on both sides, it is necessary, when placing 
 them, to be very careful to see that the same side 
 is always uppermost. Very pretty effects are 
 obtained by graduating the size of the rings in a 
 
 row or series. The centre ring may be the largest* 
 and those on either side may decrease in size as 
 they approach the end or point of the space allotted 
 to them, or a large ring may lead a row of others 
 of decreasing size. 
 
 When the pattern requires the rings to be placed 
 so close together that they touch, they should be 
 united by threads entering each ring at one point 
 only, and these uniting threads should not be 
 drawn tight enough to bring the rings firmly 
 together, but should serve as a hinge, which, while 
 it keeps the rings together, allows them to move 
 freely. Rings should, under no circumstances, be 
 sewed together along their circumferences, as the 
 effect is stiff and clumsy, and not at all dainty 
 and lace-like. 
 
 It is best to baste the rings to the pattern only 
 as the progress of the work requires. The working 
 thread is very apt to catch between the basted 
 rings and the pattern, and so delay the work. 
 After the work of attaching the rings to the braid 
 with the lace stitches has been completed, it is 
 impossible for the thread to catch in this manner. 
 
 Fastening the Thread. 
 
 Knots should never appear in any lace, and the 
 worker should aim to have both sides of the work 
 appear equally neat and perfect. When the com- 
 pletion of a stitch or the limit of a thread permits 
 the fastening to be made at the intersection of two 
 braids, a single buttonhole knot should be made, 
 and the thread passed, by means of the needle, 
 back and forth two or three times between the 
 braids with a tiny backstitch at each change of 
 the direction of the thread. When a new thread 
 is to be fastened at the intersection of two braids, 
 the needle should be passed between these two 
 braids with the point toward the place at which 
 the thread is to be fastened. The thread should 
 then be carefully drawn through until the end 
 just disappears from sight between the braids. A 
 buttonhole knot should then be made, and back of 
 it a second one to guard its predecessor. 
 
 When, in the course of the work, the end of a 
 used thread must be fastened to a single braid, it 
 may be overcast along the edge of the braid with 
 an occasional buttonhole knot, or a single button- 
 hole knot may tie the thread to the edge of the 
 braid, and the needle may then pass in a series 
 of tiny running stitches, with an occasional back- 
 stitch, along the body of the braid for a short 
 
distance. The new thread should then be carried 
 by the needle in a similar manner along the braid 
 from the direction opposite that taken by the 
 retiring thread. At the point where the thread is 
 to be fastened, and the work continued, two button- 
 hole knots are all that is necessary. 
 
 It is often well, when filling in with stitches that 
 permit, to begin the new thread on the side of the 
 space opposite the ending of the former thread. 
 This serves to make the place of j uncture still less 
 conspicuous. 
 
 All patterns should be able to be considered as 
 composed of two parts — design and background. 
 The design should be prominently brought out, 
 and, to accomplish this, the network and other 
 showy stitches should be used, keeping the spider- 
 webs, bars, and other open stitches for the back- 
 ground. It is well to put in the background. 
 stitches first, as they will hold the curves of the 
 braid in place, and preserve the shape of the de- 
 sign until the work is finished. 
 
 When working, either side of the lace may be 
 considered the right side. Each has its advantages 
 and disadvantages. The aim of the worker should 
 always be to make both sides so neatly and care- 
 fully that they are equally beautiful, and there is 
 no wrong side. Ribbed wheels and some other 
 stitches cannot so easily be worked on the wrong 
 side, and some other stitches appear better on the 
 side upon which they have been worked. Other 
 stitches appear alike on both sides. The overcast- 
 ing of two braids together, and the beginning and 
 ending of each thread, often appear more plainly 
 upon the upper side and mar the effect of the 
 work, but with care that can be avoided. When 
 the wrong side is up, care must be exercised in 
 placing the rings, which must also be wrong side 
 up. If there is any fear of soiling the work, it is 
 always advisable to make it wrong side up. The 
 under side is usually smoother, but the pressing 
 of the piece when finished makes both sides equally 
 smooth and handsome. 
 
 Preparing a Sampler. 
 
 VERY lace-maker should prepare a sam- 
 pler upon which to reproduce the 
 various lace stitches, which may be 
 worked, cut out, and repeated until pro- 
 ficiency is acquired, and this without danger of 
 soiling or in any way spoiling the piece of work 
 in which the stitch is to be introduced. If 
 every stitch is practised in this way the worker 
 will in the end, besides having become very fa- 
 miliar with the various stitches, have them illus- 
 trated in a compact, practical form. Only those 
 workers who have prepared them for use know the 
 comfort and satisfaction to be had in the posses- 
 sion of a sampler. 
 
 To prepare this sampler an oblong piece of cam- 
 bric or holland is required. The size of this 
 depends upon the size of the collection of stitches 
 the worker hopes to obtain, and a sampler is a 
 great incentive to new stitches. What the kodak 
 book and the stamp album are to their devotees, 
 so is the sampler to the lace-worker. A new stitch 
 becomes a great prize and is eagerly added to the 
 collection. In view of this, and that there are 
 over a hundred stitches in common use, it is well 
 to make the sampler sufficiently large. 
 
 When holland — the smooth, shiny holland — is 
 used, no additional background is needed. When 
 cambric is used, it is necessary to line it with a sheet 
 of strong but not too stiff paper, or a light weight 
 canvas. With narrow tape or Battenberg braid a 
 part of this sampler is checked off in one-inch 
 squares and the remainder in oblongs one inch by 
 one-half inch in size, as shown in Fig. 4. The 
 squares are for the networks and wheels, while 
 the oblongs are for insertions and bars. The 
 braid presents a very neat 
 appearance, and is delight- 
 fully firm if it is first basted 
 in place and then stitched 
 through the centre on the 
 machine. The last piece of 
 braid to be attached should 
 be the one that passes around 
 the others like a frame and 
 covers up the cut ends of 
 the braid. Or a sampler 
 may be made on an all-over 
 lace pattern; this would 
 show the best application of the different stitches 
 to the various shaped spaces. 
 
 Fig. 4. Diagram of Sam 
 pleb for Lace Stitches 
 
Lace Stitches. Bars. 
 
 > i h J j a j a a i b t 
 
 Fig. 5. Plain Twisted 
 Bar. 
 
 ACE stitches may be classified as bars, 
 wheels, insertions, and networks. The 
 first two are used in filling in the back- 
 ground of designs, while the insertions 
 
 and networks are reserved for the filling in of 
 
 the design itself. 
 
 Sorrento Bars. 
 
 The plain twisted bar, Fig. 5, also called the Sor- 
 rento bar, is the simplest of all stitches. The 
 thread is fastened securely in the proper place and 
 carried across the space to be 
 filled, where it is held smoothly 
 over the pattern and again 
 secured either by passing it 
 through the edge of the braid 
 or fastening it with a button- 
 hole knot. The work is then 
 held so that the first fastening 
 of the thread is away from the 
 worker and the second attach- 
 ing is nearer. The needle is 
 then repeatedly passed under 
 the bar, and the working thread drawn tightly 
 each time, until the opposite end of the bar is 
 reached. 
 
 The overcasting away from instead of toward 
 the worker secures a better twist or rope effect, 
 and each twisting or overcasting of the thread 
 helps to keep the preceding overcastings in place, 
 and avoids the loop in the nearer end of the bar, 
 where the thread turns back upon itself. 
 
 The working thread is carried from one com- 
 pleted bar to the point from which another is be- 
 gun by a series of overcasting stitches along the 
 selvage of the braid. 
 
 The double twisted bar, Fig. 6, is formed by 
 casting three threads across the space to be filled. 
 These threads are stretched 
 just sufficiently to cause them 
 to lie in a straight line between 
 the braids without pulling them 
 from their places. They are 
 then overcast together in an 
 open effect that allows the 
 foundation threads to show 
 between the coiling of the over- 
 casting thread, which winds 
 F t» [stki. 1 bar LE around them like a tendril. 
 
 These bars may be arranged according to fancy, 
 and are grouped in clusters of three, arranged in 
 points and in rays from a common centre, or are 
 placed in parallel lines, when they are sometimes 
 tied through the centre with a series of buttonhole 
 knots, and this tying thread overcast as are the 
 bars. 
 
 Plain Buttonhole Bar. 
 
 When a bar heavier than the twisted bars is 
 desired, the plain buttonhole bar may be used, as 
 in Fig. 7. The thread is fastened securely and 
 carried across the space to be filled two, three, or 
 four times, according to the weight or size of the 
 bar desired. The working 
 thread is then carried one 
 loop of the braid-edge 
 lower than the one into 
 which the foundation 
 threads are placed, and the 
 entire bar filled closely and 
 smoothly with a row of 
 buttonhole stitches, which 
 may be worked either from 
 left to right, or from right 
 to left; but the former is 
 the easier, as the thread 
 does not have to be thrown 
 around into position, but falls in place with the 
 working of each stitch. The carrying of the 
 working thread one loop of the braid-edge be- 
 low the foundation threads of the bar keeps the 
 finished bar in place, and avoids all tendency to 
 curl or twist out of shape. For the same rea- 
 son, when the end of the bar is reached, the 
 thread is fastened just below the last stitch. 
 Where a series of bars is to be worked, the work- 
 ing thread is overcast along the braid-edge to the 
 desired position of the second bar, and the process 
 repeated. These buttonhole bars may be grouped 
 in various ways, and are often called Point de 
 Venise bars. 
 
 Buttonholed Bars with Pinned Picots. 
 
 When open picots (also called dots or purls) are 
 desired on the buttonholed bar, they are formed 
 as the work proceeds, at intervals of halves, thirds, 
 quarters, or according to whatever arrangement is 
 chosen. See Fig. 8. A small pin is thrust into 
 
 Fig. 7. Plain Button- 
 hole Bar. 
 
the pattern at a distance from the bar correspond- 
 ing with the desired length of the picot. The 
 working thread is passed under the pin, and is 
 carried over and behind the foundation threads, 
 and outside of the loop held down by the pin. 
 The needle is then thrust with a buttonhole stitch, 
 at right angles to the bar, under the pinned loop 
 and the other thread, which has just reappeared 
 
 tI!8 ofe 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 " 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i_n 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 
 
 
 txi 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 LU 
 
 
 
 " J 
 
 PIG. 8. BUTTONHOLE Bak 
 
 with Pinned Picot. 
 
 Fig. 9. Buttonhole Bar 
 with Picot. 
 
 from behind the foundation threads. This button- 
 hole stitch is then drawn tightly to the bar, and 
 close to the last buttonhole stitch on the bar. The 
 buttonholing is then continued until another picot 
 is desired, when the process is repeated. When it 
 is desired that more than one buttonhole stitch is 
 to bind the picot in place, the first one is fastened 
 sufficiently far from the bar to allow the others 
 to be fitted closely between it and the bar, as is 
 shown in Fig. 9. 
 
 Bar with Buttonhole Picot. 
 
 In making the buttonhole picot, the button- 
 holing of the prepared foundation threads is 
 continued for six or more stitches beyond the 
 point where the picot is to begin; or, in other 
 words, the buttonholing is continued to the farther 
 end of the proposed picot. The thread is then 
 carried back to the sixth 
 stitch, and passed between 
 it and the seventh. It is 
 then carried forward again 
 and over the foundation 
 threads close to the end of 
 the buttonholing. Again it 
 is carried back to the sixth 
 buttonhole and secured. 
 The needle is then thrust 
 between the seventh and 
 eighth buttonhole stitches. 
 This is done to prevent the 
 end of the picot from curling up out of place. 
 
 
 
 
 ■nm'jij 
 
 t 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 j H 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . ^ 
 
 
 
 ■ n 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 : = 
 
 
 
 
 
 « 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Fig. 10. Bar with Button- 
 holed Picot. 
 
 The three foundation threads just made are then 
 buttonholed until the picot is completed. The 
 remainder of the bar is then buttonholed. 
 
 Bar with Two Rows of Dots. 
 
 One of the prettiest and most effective bar 
 stitches consists of a foundation of two threads, 
 upon which are worked two rows of buttonhole 
 knots. One of these rows being on each side of 
 the foundation threads, causes both sides of the 
 finished bar to be exactly alike. The working 
 thread is fastened to the braid at the right-hand 
 end of the proposed bar, and is carried across to 
 the opposite side, and there secured to the braid 
 by passing the needle under one thread of the 
 braid edge. It is then returned to the right side, 
 and the buttonhole knots placed along the lower 
 side or edge of the foundation threads. 
 
 The first stitch is a regular buttonhole stitch ; 
 the second is a reversed buttonhole stitch. This is 
 worked in the following manner: The thread is 
 held securely close to the just completed button- 
 hole stitch, by placing the left thumb upon it. 
 The loose end of the thread (the end on which 
 the needle is threaded) is then drawn upwards 
 toward the end of the thumb, and secured beneath 
 it, thus forming a loop 
 whose loose end is the 
 one nearer the foundation 
 threads. The needle is then 
 passed back of the two 
 foundation threads, over the 
 upper or nearer thread of 
 the thumb-held loop. 
 
 This reversed buttonhole 
 stitch is drawn closely to 
 the foundation threads. The 
 result is two close button- 
 hole stitches secured by a 
 tiny bar of the thread be- 
 neath them, and parallel to 
 the foundation threads. The next regular button- 
 hole stitch is placed upon the foundation threads 
 just far enough from the former pair to permit the 
 filling in of the space between by the pair of stitches 
 to be worked from the other side. The reversed 
 buttonhole stitch is then placed close to its com- 
 panion, and the work so continued to the end of 
 the foundation threads, which will show groups 
 of two buttonhole stitches at regular intervals 
 along its length. 
 
 Fig. 11. Bab with Two 
 Rows of Dots. 
 
The entire pattern is then reversed, bringing 
 the unfinished side of the bar into position for 
 completion. A group of the two buttonhole knots, 
 the first regular and the second reversed, is then 
 inserted in each of the spaces left for this pur- 
 pose. The result is a closely covered bar of intri- 
 cate appearance, and of a very braid-like "effect. 
 In fact, the ambitious worker may accomplish a 
 piece of lace which, though containing a braid, is 
 entirely hand made. To do this, a long, narrow 
 strip of holland, or paper-lined cambric, is secured. 
 The ends are then basted together, and a large 
 hoop or ring thus formed. To this the two foun- 
 dation threads are couched at regular intervals in 
 a straight line, circling the hoop a number of 
 times sufficient to furnish the required length of 
 braid. 
 
 The pairs of buttonhole knots are then worked 
 down the length of the threads on one side of the 
 foundation threads. The holland hoop is then 
 reversed, and the other side of the braid com- 
 pleted. The couching threads are then cut, and 
 the dainty strip of "braid" released. The loop- 
 like appearance of the edges furnish very excel- 
 lent openings for the needle, when the filling-in 
 stitches are placed. 
 
 A wider braid may be secured by increasing the 
 number of foundation threads, which may also be 
 of a larger size than the filling-in stitches, if so 
 desired. A very pretty network results from the 
 use of this pair of regular and reversed buttonhole 
 stitches. The work is done in rows, and is exactly 
 like the Brussels net two-stitch, except that the 
 second buttonhole stitch of each pair is reversed. 
 
 Raleigh Bars. 
 
 Another form of the buttonhole stitch bars is 
 called the Raleigh bar. In this stitch the foun- 
 dation bars are first laid throughout the space 
 to be filled, using a coarse thread. These bars are 
 often put in sufficiently loose that they may be 
 twisted by the working thread several times before 
 the next loop is made. This twisted .length serves 
 as another division, and increases the desired irreg- 
 ular appearance of the bars. After the foundation 
 threads are all in place the buttonholing is accom- 
 plished with occasional picots, either pinned, lace, 
 or bullion, worked at irregular intervals. 
 
 This stitch may be worked in a regular design 
 of squares or triangles, but its chief beauty lies in 
 its irregularity of form. 
 
 Fig. 12. Raleigh Bars. 
 
 Bar with Picot Made in Bullion Stitch. 
 
 The foundation threads are prepared as for the 
 plain buttonhole bar. These threads are covered 
 with buttonhole stitches set close together until 
 the place where the picot is to be placed is reached. 
 The needle is then thrust part way through the 
 last buttonhole stitch, and 
 the thread wound from left 
 to right ten to twenty times 
 around its point. These coils 
 of thread must be drawn up 
 closely and evenly along the 
 length of the needle, but not 
 so tightly that it is difficult 
 or impossible to draw the 
 needle through them. The 
 left thumb is placed upon 
 the coil, and the needle 
 drawn through with the fin- 
 gers of the right hand. The 
 thread is pulled up so tightly that the coil is drawn 
 almost into a semicircle. The buttonholing of the 
 bar, against which the picot will rest securely, is 
 continued until the point for the next picot is 
 reached. 
 
 This coiling of the thread about the needle may 
 be used in various ways. At the intersection of 
 two twisted bars four bullion picots, meeting at 
 the point of intersection, may be placed one be- 
 tween each right angle formed by the meeting 
 of the twisted threads. See Fig. 14. A space 
 filled with a network of lines at right angles, 
 forming a checkerboard appearance when com- 
 pleted, with a quartet of these bullion picots at 
 
 TfTrrTTTfT 3 
 
 nmjp^fl Un it n 
 
 kx^ ^* KS B XX 
 
 I . II 171. . H ^^a, sx 31 IT 
 
 Fig. 13. Buttonholed 
 Bar with Picot in 
 Bullion Stitch. 
 
 8 
 
Fig. 14. 
 
 Way of Working Quatrefoil 
 in Bullion Stitch. 
 
 each intersection, is very effective. Closely worked 
 
 networks may 
 be embellished 
 with good ef- 
 fect, as shown 
 in Fig. 15. The 
 needle in this 
 case is passed 
 down through 
 the completed 
 network at the 
 point which is 
 to be the centre 
 of the figure, 
 and it reap- 
 pears through 
 the network at the point which is to be the outer 
 end of the figure. The thread is then coiled 
 around the point of the needle a sufficient num- 
 ber of times to fill the space between the disap- 
 pearance and reappearance of the needle. The 
 thumb is placed upon the coil, and the needle and 
 thread drawn through until the coils are closely 
 held together, but in a straight line. The needle 
 is then thrust through the point where it made its 
 former disappearance, and the coil lies on the net- 
 work like a tiny leaf. Clusters of three or four of 
 these coils meeting at a common centre are very 
 effective. 
 
 The rounded bullion picot may also be worked 
 upon a completed network, and when it is desired 
 
 to have it lie flat, a 
 stitch may be taken 
 through the network 
 and the under-side of 
 the picot, thus fasten- 
 ing the coiled loop se- 
 curely to the network. 
 Three bullion picot 
 coils meeting at a cen- 
 tre, and with a worked 
 stem attached, make a very pretty clover leaf. 
 See Fig. 15. 
 
 Branched Bars, or Buttonholed Bars. 
 
 "When it is desired to fill with bars spaces too 
 wide to admit of the use of any of the bar stitches 
 already given, branched bars will be very appropri- 
 ate. They may be used with good effect, also, 
 in filling in backgrounds. A piece of lace 
 
 Fio. 15. Trefoils in Bullion 
 Stitch Worked on Button- 
 holed Foundation. 
 
 Fig. IB. Branched But- 
 tonhole Bars. 
 
 whose background is filled 
 with branched buttonholed 
 bars presents an especially 
 rich appearance, and the 
 extra time and labor neces- 
 sary to accomplish this back- 
 ground is fully repaid by 
 the beauty of the result. 
 
 The usual foundation of 
 three threads is laid loosely 
 across one corner of the 
 space to be filled. These 
 foundation threads are then 
 closely buttonholed for about 
 half their length, when the working thread is car- 
 ried to the point selected for the end of the next, 
 loop. A second and third passing of the thread 
 supplies the new foundation for this next loop, 
 which is then- buttonholed for half its length, 
 when a third foundation is prepared. 
 
 This is continued until the spacing of the bars 
 is accomplished. When in the placing of these 
 bars it is necessary to complete the buttonholing 
 of an unfinished bar before another is begun, it 
 should be done, but the work should be so planned 
 that the thread need never be broken, but will 
 pass in a continuous circuit from bar to bar. 
 
 All the bars being placed, the work of complet- 
 ing the buttonholing of them is begun. The com- 
 pletion of one loop brings the working thread to 
 the next unfinished bar awaiting completion, and 
 so, one by one, the buttonholing of the bars is 
 completed. 
 
 Bar with Lace Picot. 
 
 The lace picots are formed somewhat differently. 
 See Fig. 17. The pin is placed as for the open 
 pinned picots, and the thread passed around it 
 and over and behind the foundation threads as 
 before, but reappears in- 
 side or between the sides of 
 the loop. The pin should 
 be far enough from the bar 
 to allow four buttonhole 
 stitches to be set snugly 
 upon the loop. The first 
 one should be placed as 
 near the pin as possible, 
 in order to cover entirely 
 „ „ „ the foundation loop. The 
 
 Fig. 17. Buttonhole Bar x 
 
 with lace picot. other three stitches should 
 
 i '»' h (i ' i ' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 LL 
 
 
 
 
 
 5b8g! 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 J fft n 
 
follow the first ones closely and evenly, the last 
 one lying against the last buttonhole stitch of 
 the bar. 
 
 Point d'Anvers Bars. 
 
 For the filling in of leaf -shaped spaces, and used 
 as an insertion for long narrow spaces, Point d'An- 
 vers bars are equally good. The thread is fastened 
 at the middle of one end of the space to be filled, 
 and carried along the 
 edge of the braid, one 
 stitch to the right. It 
 is then brought across 
 the length of the space 
 and attached to the 
 braid, the same distance 
 from the centre of the 
 space as it is removed 
 by the overcasting stitch 
 at the opposite end. 
 The thread is then car- 
 r i e d by overcasting 
 stitches a distance to 
 the left, equally distant 
 from the centre. It is 
 then carried back in a 
 
 parallel line to the opposite, or first end of the 
 .space, and fastened. The two lines of thread should 
 
 Fig. 18. Point d'Anveks Bar. 
 
 be perfectly parallel, and drawn tightly across the 
 space, but not so tightly that they will draw the 
 braid out of place. Keeping these foundation 
 threads absolutely parallel, the working thread is 
 passed in a darning or weaving stitch over and 
 under them for the desired distance. Then the 
 first pair of side loops or leaflets is made. The 
 process of the weaving brings the working thread 
 over the right bar. It is then passed behind it 
 and over the left bar as during the preceding weav- 
 ing, and is passed through the edge of the braid at 
 the left side of the space, with the point of the 
 needle toward the already woven end of the work. 
 The thread is then passed under the left bar and 
 over the right as before, and, with the point of the 
 needle thrust from the woven end of the work, is 
 carried through the edge of the braid, at the right 
 side of the space. It is then brought under the 
 right bar and under the last passing of the thread 
 across the bars. It is then passed behind the left 
 bar and over the right, and the two side loops 
 being in place, the weaving of the bar is continued 
 until the place for the next pair of side loops is 
 reached, when the process is repeated. This is con- 
 tinued until the filling of the space is completed. 
 For short connecting bars the Point d'Anvers bar is 
 sometimes used without the side loops. 
 
 Wheels or Spiders. 
 
 JHEELS or spiders are made on a foun- 
 dation of plain twisted bars. The 
 number of bars depends on the size of 
 the space. They are cast across the 
 space to be filled at distances from each other, and 
 
 Fig. 19. Spinning Wheel. Fig. 20. Spinning Wheel. 
 
 in such a manner that they all cross in the centre 
 the space. They form diameters, whose halves of 
 are radii of a circle. The first bar divides the 
 space into halves and is overcast back to the start- 
 
 ing-point. The thread is then overcast along the 
 edge of the braid for the required distance and 
 again carried across the space, crossing the first 
 thread and entering the braid at the right place 
 and overcast back to its beginning. This is re- 
 peated until the last bar has been overcast to the 
 centre, when all the threads may be fastened to 
 gether with a buttonhole knot or not, as preferred 
 The spider is then woven. 
 
 This is accomplished by passing the needle over 
 and under the different radii formed by the bars 
 and keeping the woven thread drawn tightly or 
 snugly to the centre. This is continued until the 
 spider is of sufficient size, when the remaining ra- 
 dius or half bar is overcast and the thread cut. 
 
 There are various kinds of spiders. The sim- 
 plest is shown in Fig. 19, and is formed by the 
 regular over and under weaving of the radii, and 
 results in keeping every alternate radius on the 
 
 10 
 
Fig. 21. Spinminq Wheel 
 with Knotted Cikcles. 
 
 them 
 
 upper side of the spider when finished. The 
 thread occasionally passed 
 between the two twisted 
 threads of a radius will 
 keep the circling thread of 
 the spider from rolling upon 
 itself. Another effect is pro- 
 duced by skipping one ra- 
 dius in every circuit of the 
 thread forming the spider. 
 This alternates the thread 
 over and under the same radius and hide 
 all from view, as shown in Fig. 20. 
 
 In many uneven places the putting in of the 
 bars may be so regulated that their completion 
 permits a final half bar, or a radius, instead of a 
 diameter. This is carried to the centre and the 
 spider woven as before. Here the odd number of 
 radii admits, in fact necessitates, the continual al- 
 ternating of the bars or radii. 
 
 A pretty result is obtained by circling the spider 
 with one, two, or more rows of the thread, tied at 
 each radius with a buttonhole knot as shown in 
 Fig. 21. These circles are to be perfectly true and 
 equally distant from the spider. To form these 
 circles the last radius is overcast two or three 
 times, and the series of knots tied around the spider 
 at each radius. Upon completing the circle a few 
 more overcasting stitches carries the thread a 
 sufficient distance, and a second circle is knotted 
 in. When enough circles have been made, the rest 
 of the radius is overcast and the thread fastened 
 off. Smaller spiders, Point de Venise "shells," 
 and other similar stitches may be placed at the 
 tying of each knot, and become very effective. 
 
 Spinning Wheel Rosettes. 
 
 The spinning wheel rosettes, Figs. 22 and 23, 
 also called ribbed wheels, are made on a founda- 
 
 tion of twisted threads crossing in the centre simi- 
 lar to the foundation threads for the spider or 
 wheel before given. The working thread is carried 
 under two radii, drawn up closely and firmly in 
 place. The needle is then passed under the second 
 of these radii, and also under the next one (see 
 Fig. 23), and the thread 
 is again drawn into posi- 
 tion. In this manner the 
 working thread is always 
 carried back over the last 
 radius under which it 
 
 passed, and forward under 
 Fig. 22. Spinning Wheel tne uext one T bj s resiuts 
 Rosette. . ... 
 
 m a raised twist or coil 
 
 over each radius as shown in the finished wheel, 
 Fig. 22. When the lace is being made with the 
 right side next the pattern, these ribbed wheels 
 must be made wrong 
 side up. To do this 
 the needle is thrust 
 under one radius at a 
 time, with the point 
 of the needle toward 
 both the worker and 
 the last radius around 
 which the thread has 
 passed. The thread 
 is then carried over 
 the radius and on to 
 the next one, where 
 the process is re- 
 peated. The two ways 
 may be combined, and 
 the result is a very 
 effective rosette that 
 is often seen in drawn work. The centre is worked 
 with the coil on the upper or working side for a 
 sufficient space, when for a similar space the work 
 is reversed, and the coil worked on the under side. 
 
 Fig. 23. Detail of Spinning 
 Wheel Rosette. 
 
 11 
 
Insertions. 
 
 Plain Russian Stitch. 
 
 ,HE plain Russian 
 
 stitch, Fig. 24, is 
 
 the simplest of the 
 
 insertions, and, like 
 all insertions, is suitable for 
 long, narrow spaces in the 
 design of the pattern. This 
 is accomplished by a series 
 of buttonhole stitches, alternat- 
 ing from one side of the space 
 
 Fig. 24. Plain Rcs- 
 
 to the other. SIAN stitch. 
 
 The thread is securely fastened in the upper, or 
 farther, left-hand corner. It is then brought for- 
 ward over the space and held against the pattern 
 by the left thumb. The needle is then thrust 
 through the braid on the right side of the space, 
 with the needle pointing directly across toward 
 the braid at the left side. The thread is carried 
 through the braid and again secured by the left 
 thumb. The work is then repeated from the left 
 side of the space, with the needle pointing toward 
 the right side. Holding the thread down with the 
 thumb makes it impossible to make a wrong twist, 
 as the needle never passes under the thread held 
 in this way. 
 
 This stitch may be varied by tying each cross- 
 ing thread in the middle with a buttonhole knot. 
 
 Twisted Russian Stitch. 
 
 The twisted Russian stitch, Fig. 25, is a trifle 
 more complicated. As in the former, the stitches 
 alternate from right to left, but the method of hold- 
 ing the thread down with the left thmnb differs. 
 
 The thread is fastened at 
 the upper left-hand corner and 
 carried forward over the space 
 to be filled. The thumb is 
 then placed upon it as near 
 the point of fastening as is 
 practical, and the thread is 
 brought to the right and again 
 slipped under the thumb, form- 
 ing an open loop, upon both 
 sides of which the thumb rests. 
 The needle is then thrust 
 through the edge of the braid 
 at the right, with the point directed to the op- 
 
 Fig. 25. Twisted Bus 
 sian Stitch. 
 
 posite left. It is then passed over the right-hand 
 thread of the loop, under the left-hand thread, and 
 drawn up. It is well to leave the thumb on the loop 
 till the stitch is nearly completed, as it avoids 
 tangling the thread and causes a more even 
 twist- 
 Again the thumb holds down the thread, which 
 is then brought up on the left side and slipped 
 under the thumb as before. The needle is thrust 
 through the braid at the left over the loose side of 
 the loop and under the other or right side. This 
 is repeated until the space is filled. 
 
 The same effect' may be produced by using the 
 plain Russian stitch, and with an overcasting stitch 
 producing the extra twist; but this takes more 
 time and is not as even in results. 
 
 Column Stitch. 
 
 Column stitch, shown in Fig. 26, is a combina- 
 tion of plain and twisted Russian stitch. Each 
 stitch on one side of the space to be filled is a 
 plain Russian stitch, while all those on the other 
 side are twisted Russian stitches, with the work- 
 ing thread passed three or more times around the 
 already twisted thread. This stitch makes a very 
 pretty insertion for either 
 straight or curved spaces. 
 In the latter, the twisted 
 side of the stitch may be 
 at the outer curve of the 
 place to be filled, and the 
 twisted threads will radiate 
 evenly outwards. The op- 
 posite effect may be obtained 
 by reversing the order of 
 the stitches, when the coils 
 of the twisted side will con- 
 verge, and, if the curve is 
 pronounced, will almost meet, and have the ap- 
 pearance of the spokes of a wheel. 
 
 Insertion of Single Buttonhole Stitch. 
 
 Along both sides of the long, narrow space to be 
 filled, a row of Brussels net (single buttonhole) 
 stitches is worked very evenly and quite loosely. 
 If the space is a curve the stitches along the inner 
 or smaller side of the space must be made closer 
 together, in order that the stitches of the two rows 
 
 Fig. 20. Column Stitch. 
 
 12 
 
will be in pairs, with each loop of the inner side 
 between two loops of the opposite side. This 
 
 WMUMWk 
 
 1. J. — r— H — — 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i . b .h. h. m 
 
 . Jl. B .H JL 
 
 
 Fig. 27. Insertion of Single Buttonhole Stitch. 
 
 arrangement places a loop opposite every button- 
 hole stitch on either side of the space, and makes 
 an even, regular spacing for the Russian stitch, 
 which connects the two rows of net stitches. To 
 do this the thread is fastened at one end of one of 
 the rows of net stitches, and is carried from side 
 to side, looping into each net stitch in turn. This 
 connecting stitch may be either plain or twisted 
 Russian stitch, or, as shown in the cut, may be 
 plain Russian on one side, and twisted Russian on 
 the other. Column stitch may also be used. 
 
 Insertion of Buttonhole Stitch. 
 
 A very pleasing variation of the foregoing stitch 
 is made by arranging the single rows of Brussels 
 net stitches with the loops directly opposite each 
 other. The space between the two rows is then 
 filled with a row of double Russian stitch. This 
 is made by placing two stitches of either plain or 
 
 rp 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 = 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 /\XAY Mm MaY YlAT Mm 
 J~~^ (Mm JWhS (ail IwQi JWw 
 
 
 
 
 ™= 
 
 
 
 
 \mX\ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ,;SfH!L 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 K 
 
 
 
 Fig. 28. Insertion of Buttonhole Stitch. 
 
 twisted Russian stitch in each loop. Where a 
 close or compact insertion is desired, triple or 
 quadruple Russian stitch may be used. This is 
 accomplished by placing three or four Russian 
 stitches in each loop. For all ordinary purposes 
 double, or at most triple, Russian stitch is all that 
 is necessary. A more or less compact effect will 
 be gained bv using a finer or coarser thread. 
 
 Insertion with Cones. 
 
 When a heavy, showy effect is desired, cone 
 insertion may be used. The working thread is 
 fastened to the middle of one end of the space to 
 be filled. A single row of plain Russian stitch is 
 worked throughout the length of the space. The 
 stitches of this Russian insertion must be placed at 
 regular intervals, but somewhat far apart. Upon 
 this as a foundation, the cones are placed. These 
 cones are worked over each pair of threads diverg- 
 ing from the braid. The working thread is at- 
 tached to the point of divergence of the first two 
 threads, which is, in other words, the point where 
 the thread forming the Russian stitch is first 
 attached to the braid. The thread is then carried 
 by means of the needle over and under these two 
 diverging threads until a closely woven, cone-shaped 
 figure, reaching from its point at the edge of the 
 
 
 
 
 U 1 J 
 
 E CCO 
 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ff 
 
 T|3. 
 
 En 
 
 Tin 
 
 
 i 
 
 p::: ~ 
 
 
 
 A J 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^jEf^ ^1? ^& »? =:: = 
 
 
 
 
 3 _ _ 
 
 
 
 i« ::: 
 
 
 
 ; C 
 
 
 iik 
 
 i i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 IE 
 
 
 
 j5 
 
 
 V 
 
 
 
 
 CD 
 
 Fig. 29. Insertion with Cones. 
 
 braid to the middle of the width of the space, is 
 finished. 
 
 The working thread is then carried by means of 
 a series of overcasting or twisting threads along 
 the other half of the thread which is to form one 
 foundation or side of the first cone on the other side 
 of the space. The braid being reached, the thread 
 is carried through the open margin of the braid at 
 the point where the thread of the Russian stitch 
 enters. A cone is woven over these threads, and 
 the working thread carried as before to the adjoin- 
 ing threads on the opposite side of the space. 
 
 Insertion with Reversed Cones. 
 
 A still more massive effect is produced by revers- 
 ing the cones, and in this way having their bases 
 rest upon the braid along the sides of the space to 
 be filled, and the points of each pair of opposite 
 cones meeting at the centre of the width of the 
 space. 
 
 The first row of plain Russian stitch is worked 
 throughout the length of the space as before. A 
 
 13 
 
second row of the same stitch is then worked over 
 the first in such a manner that the working thread 
 is attached to the braid just half way between the 
 attachments of the first row. This results in the 
 threads of the two rows crossing each other exactly 
 
 - 1 AUIl 
 
 EC " 
 
 i i/ .:, i M u M o, J 
 
 
 
 TT7T " T I mi "ill II * T ' 
 
 : j -fix 
 
 :5c . 
 
 QT rij n i| I- 
 
 =| = /^= 
 
 xc!; 
 
 
 T^t *■■'- 
 
 Jiiftj 
 
 m 
 
 km 
 
 m^r- 
 
 Fig. 30. Insertion with Reversed Coxes. 
 
 in the centre of the width of the space. The work- 
 ing thread is then carried over and under the first 
 two threads that will meet in the centre. The 
 weaving thread having arrived at the point where 
 the threads cross each other, the point or apex 
 of the opposite cone is reached, and the weaving 
 continued over these two threads until the second 
 cone is completed at the arrival of the working 
 thread at the edge of the opposite braid. The 
 succeeding pairs of cones are worked in the same 
 manner. 
 
 Beaded Insertion or D'Alencon. 
 
 As in Fig. 27 a row of Brussels net stitches, 
 with the long loops opposite each other, is worked 
 on both sides of the narrow space to be filled. 
 The working thread is then carried once around 
 the end loop to which it is nearest, and that 
 loop and the one opposite are then joined to- 
 gether by four connecting loops, which must lie 
 in close parallel lines. They must never cross or 
 lie upon each other. To make these loops the 
 needle is thrust under the loop at the right side of 
 
 n 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 TX 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Fig. 31. Beaded Insertion, or D'Alencon Bars. 
 
 the space, across to the opposite loop, under which 
 also the needle passes, and is drawn out between 
 the loop and the braid. This is repeated the other 
 
 three times necessary to make the " bead " of four 
 threads. At the completion of one "bead," the 
 working thread is carried once around the filled 
 net loop, and once around the next one, which is 
 then joined, as was the first pair, to the next op- 
 posite net loop. This brings all the overcasting 
 of the net loops, when carrying the thread from 
 one pair of stitches to the next, on the same side 
 of the work. 
 
 Insertion with Small Wheels. 
 
 To make this pretty stitch, the space to be 
 filled is first covered with an insertion of plain 
 Russian stitch, having the distance between the 
 stitches on either side of the braid just twice as 
 far apart as you desire them to be in the com- 
 pleted work. A second row of plain Russian 
 stitch is then worked over the first, with the 
 stitches on either side of the braid exactly half 
 way between those of the 
 former row. The threads 
 of the two rows of stitches 
 cross each other in the mid- 
 dle of the space, and form a 
 series of diamonds and tri- 
 angles, and the result is a 
 very pretty insertion with- 
 out further work. 
 
 To place the wheels at 
 the points of intersection 
 of the threads, the working 
 thread is first carried to 
 the middle of one end of 
 the space, and then to the 
 crossing of the first two threads. Here, if desired, 
 a knot may fasten them together, but it is not 
 necessary, and the effect is better if the weaving 
 of the wheels is begun over the crossing of the 
 loose threads. There being an uneven number of 
 threads (five), the weaving thread will alternate 
 over and under into a basket weave that will hold 
 the work securely in place. The completion of 
 each wheel must be on the side nearest the next 
 wheel to be worked. The needle is passed behind 
 or under two threads of the finished wheel, and to 
 the next point of intersection (see Fig. 32), where 
 the next wheel is worked. 
 
 When it is desired to make the work more elab- 
 orate, half wheels may be worked at each or at 
 every alternate connection of the thread with the 
 braid. These half wheels are formed by weaving 
 
 
 
 i° 
 
 ii ij i :~ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ji 11 i ] ~ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 '/rtS^'^ " : 3 " 
 
 = 
 
 
 *f^JE;j = 
 
 llsJ \ - 
 
 
 
 = 
 
 
 
 32>5=£S^ : + 
 
 
 
 
 J^M=| = 
 
 Fig. 32. Insertion with 
 
 Small Wheels. 
 
 14 
 
the working thread through the edge of the braid, 
 over and under the two diverging threads, and 
 through the edge of the braid on the other side 
 until the half wheel is of sufficient size. 
 
 Bars of Point d'Angleterre. 
 
 Insertion with big wheels. When a more showy 
 insertion is desired, a design with larger wheels 
 may be used. To accomplish this a thread is car- 
 ried lengthwise across the middle of the space to 
 be filled and fastened into position in the braid at 
 the ends of the space. The working thread is 
 then carried by means of overcasting stitches 
 along the open edge of the braid to the corner of 
 the space. A loose loop is then formed across 
 this end of the space by passing the working 
 thread through the opposite corner, and leaving 
 the loop loose enough to form the vertical half of 
 a diamond-shaped space. The thread is then car- 
 ried by means of overcasting stitches a sufficient 
 distance along the braid at the side of the space to 
 be filled. 
 
 The needle is then thrust over the former loop, 
 under the horizontal thread that was first carried 
 
 across the length 
 of the space, and 
 again over the 
 thread of the 
 loop. It is then 
 carried to the op- 
 posite side of the 
 space and fas- 
 tened to the edge 
 of the braid at 
 exactly the same 
 distance from the corner as is its opposite end from 
 the other corner. The thread is then carried di- 
 rectly across the space from one end of this second 
 or inverted, loop to the other, and just tightly 
 enough to form a straight line across the space. 
 This thread is then overcast to the middle of the 
 space, where a wheel of four or more circlings of 
 the threads is woven with the thread passing each 
 time over the same threads of the intersection. 
 
 Should the circles of the resulting wheels be 
 prone to slip out of place the needle may be thrust 
 between the two threads of the twisted length, but 
 with careful work this will not be necessary. The 
 wheel being completed, the thread is carried back 
 of it to its opposite side, where the other half of 
 the straight thread is overcast and the needle 
 
 - 1- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 = 1= 
 
 jf^L^MM_\ — 
 
 g a^y %,^^^/%^ 
 
 
 
 ~" tt " 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Tf 
 
 
 ^T 
 
 Fig. 33. Insertion'with Large Wheels. 
 
 passed through the braid. From this point a new 
 loop is formed, reaching from one end of the 
 straight twisted thread to the other. The thread 
 is then carried along the braid and the work con- 
 tinued. 
 
 The beauty of this insertion lies in the exactness 
 with which it is made. The space between the 
 straight threads must always be exactly the same, 
 and the loops must all be of the same length, so 
 that each diamond may be exactly like its neigh- 
 bors, and surround a wheel exactly the size of all 
 the other wheels. 
 
 Insertion with Branches. 
 
 These are two very pretty leaf or branched in- 
 sertions. They are especially appropriate for oval 
 or leaf-shaped openings. The working thread is 
 fastened to the middle of one end of the space to 
 be filled and carried to the middle of the opposite 
 end of the space, where it is carried by the needle 
 under four or five threads of the open edge of the 
 braid. This ensures the rounded open shape of 
 the leaflet. The needle is then thrust, in a similar 
 manner, under the same number of threads, along 
 the left side of the braid near the upper end of the 
 space, with the needle pointed upwards. The loop 
 so formed is left slack or loose enough to form the 
 loose, open loops at the braid edges, and, for the 
 middle of the loop, to lie close to the lengthwise 
 thread or midrib to which it is soon to be tied. 
 
 
 
 
 rr 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Fig. 34. Insertion with 
 Branches. 
 
 Fig. 35 Insertion with 
 Branches. 
 
 The thread is then carried horizontally across the 
 space, and the needle thrust with its point directed 
 downwards under four or five threads of the braid. 
 The thread is then carried in the midrib, and the 
 needle thrust behind or under the first or left-side 
 leaflet, the midrib and the second or right-side 
 leaflet, and under the point of the needle, which is 
 
 15 
 
then drawn through, and the thread tightened in 
 the buttonhole knot which results. This com- 
 pletes the first group of leaflets. The needle is 
 then again thrust into the braid at. the left side of 
 the space, and the second pair of leaflets begun. 
 
 After the leaflets are tied together with the but- 
 tonhole knot, the working thread may be carried 
 alternately over the leaves and under the midrib, cir- 
 cling the knot a sufficient number of times to make 
 a wheel or rosette at the intersection of the leaflets. 
 
 Leaf Insertion. 
 
 An insertion with leaves in darning stitch is 
 excellent where a heavy, rich effect is desired. 
 The working thread is attached to the end of the 
 space at which the first terminal leaf of the inser- 
 tion is to be worked. This thread is then carried 
 to the opposite end of the space, thrust through a 
 single loop of the braid, and carried back, un- 
 twisted, to the starting point. It is then carried 
 to the left side of the space, and attached to the 
 braid at that point by having the needle thrust 
 under not more than two 
 threads of the open edge 
 of the braid. The thread 
 is then carried to the right 
 side of the space, and 
 caught into the braid in 
 the same manner at a point 
 exactly opposite the point 
 of attachment on the left 
 side. The thread is then 
 brought back to the mid- 
 rib, or two long threads. 
 The needle is then thrust 
 behind all the threads, and drawn up in a tight 
 buttonhole knot, as is shown in the illustration 
 for insertion with branches, Fig. 34. 
 
 The thread is then carried, for a second time, 
 around the terminal or first leaf, which is then filled 
 from point to knot with a close succession of darn- 
 ing stitches over and under the threads outlining 
 the leaf. At the completion of this leaf, the thread 
 is carried around the left leaf, and passed again 
 through the braid at its point. This makes three 
 
 Fig. 36. Leap Insertion. 
 
 foundation threads on one side, and two on the 
 other side of the leaf. When an effect not so heavy 
 is desired, the thread passing all around the leaf 
 may be omitted. This makes two foundation 
 threads on one side and one on the other, and is 
 somewhat more difficult to darn. This leaf is then 
 darned, after which the leaf on the right side is 
 finished in a similar manner. 
 
 The outlines for the second pair of side leaves 
 are then made and tied to the midrib with a but- 
 tonhole knot as were the first two. The working 
 thread is then passed one and a half times around 
 the two threads of the midrib that is to form the 
 middle of the next trio of leaves. The needle is 
 passed through the knot each time at the point of 
 this leaf. This is at the base of the completed 
 trio of leaves above. The middle leaf is then 
 filled with the darning stitch, as are each of the 
 side leaves. The work proceeds in this way until 
 the entire space is filled. 
 
 Cluster Insertion. 
 
 This is one of the most charming and use- 
 ful of the insertions, and the ease with which 
 it is made increases its popularity. It is equally 
 appropriate for straight or curved spaces. Two 
 twisted parallel bars are worked, and the thread 
 for the third bar carried across and overcast nearly 
 to the middle, when the three bars, two twisted 
 and one incomplete, are joined by fine, tight but- 
 tonhole stitches, worked over them close together. 
 The twisting of the third 
 bar is then completed. 
 
 The first and third bars 
 of each group should be j ust 
 loose or slack enough to 
 admit of their being fas- 
 tened, by the buttonhole 
 stitches, to the middle bar, 
 without drawing the braid 
 out of place. The first bar 
 of each succeeding trio 
 should be placed close to 
 the last bar of the preced- 
 tion. ing group. 
 
 A ^vrrrr 
 
 X£ 
 
 
 
 
 
 ™ ; i <8-^w^^fj 
 
 
 a \ g aCLy^*^ ^^i* 
 
 
 1 ** : t+ ' J fM- jtj >>mTf^Vc4 
 
 
 n ■ 5 a | [ 
 
 
 u : g b / 
 
 
 Fig. 37 
 
 16 
 
 
Network Stitches. 
 
 loosely. 
 
 Single Net Stitch. 
 
 •INGLE net stitch, called Brussels point 
 (Point de Bruxelles), is the foundation 
 of many of the net stitches, and consists 
 of rows of buttonhole stitches worked 
 The beauty of this stitch lies in the even- 
 ness and regularity of the stitches. The loops 
 should all be of the same length, and the buttonhole 
 stitches must fall in even lines, forming parallel 
 diagonal lines both from the upper right-hand cor- 
 ner toward the lower left, and from the upper left 
 toward the lower right. The chief difficulty in 
 working this stitch is at the ends of the rows. 
 The loops form diamond-shaped spaces, and great 
 care must be taken at the ends of each row to so 
 place the stitches that the fractional spaces shall 
 
 be true parts of whole 
 spaces. A little care 
 in regulating the dis- 
 tance along its edge, 
 in carrying the 
 thread to position 
 for the next row of 
 stitches, and trial 
 placing of the thread 
 to note the effect, will soon lead to great profi- 
 ciency in this respect. Every loop should, in the 
 following row, receive a buttonhole stitch, and all 
 widening and narrowing must be done at the ends 
 of the rows. The stitches must be kept even, and 
 the loops of the same size. When this is done, 
 the widening and narrowing attends to itself. The 
 worker should never attempt to retain the same 
 number of stitches in every row throughout an 
 irregular space. The space must regulate the 
 number of stitches, and accommodate only just 
 so many as there is room for when keeping them 
 at their regular size. This stitch may be made 
 with large open loops, giving a very open, lacy 
 effect, or the loops may be made small, and conse- 
 quently the work much more close in appearance. 
 Both for background and for filling in, this is a 
 very useful stitch, and will be found especially 
 desirable for large spaces. 
 
 Venice originated Point proper, which may have 
 been worked there in isolated instances before 
 1600, but it came prominently forward towards the 
 middle of the seventeenth century. Designs given 
 
 Fig. 38. Single Net Stitch. 
 
 
 Doi ULE Net Stitch. 
 
 in the pattern books of the sixteenth century are 
 all of the Reticella type, and cannot be bought 
 under designation of real Point. 
 
 Double Net Stitch. 
 
 Double net stitch, also called Point de Sorrento, 
 shown in Fig. 39, and the two stitch, is made in 
 the same manner as is the single net stitch, except 
 that here the loops between the buttonhole stitches 
 are somewhat less rounded ; that is, they are drawn 
 a little more closely, and, instead of one buttonhole 
 
 stitch, two are made 
 close together. In or- 
 der to keep them thus 
 near each other, the 
 second stitch must be 
 drawn tightly up to 
 the first. The same 
 rules as to evenness, 
 regularity, widening, 
 and narrowing that are given for the single net 
 stitch apply to this as well as all other net 
 stitches. The two stitch, while taking twice as 
 long as the single net stitch, is more easily made 
 perfect, as the two stitches aid in keeping the 
 work firm and true. This is one of the most sat- 
 isfactory of the net stitches. 
 
 Three Stitch. 
 
 The three stitch is also called Point de Sorrento, 
 and is identical with the two stitch, except that 
 three close buttonhole stitches are used instead of 
 two. This results in a heavier, more solid effect. 
 If a still closer effect is desired, four buttonhole 
 stitches may be used. In this case the intervening 
 loop should be just long enough to accommodate 
 the four stitches that 
 are to be placed in it 
 when working the next 
 row. These stitches 
 may be combined and 
 varied in different 
 ways. A good effect 
 is produced by alter- 
 nating first a row of 
 
 single net stitch, and then a row of three stitch. 
 Three rows of single net stitch may be followed 
 by three rows of the two stitch. In fact it is the 
 variation and combination of these stitches that 
 form many of the intricate lace stitches. 
 
 Fig. 40. Three Stitch. 
 
 17 
 
Buttonholed Net 
 Stitch. 
 
 Buttonholed Net Stitch. 
 
 Where a network showing a heavy effect is 
 desired, buttonholed net stitch is excellent. A 
 row of Brussels net is worked with wide, regular 
 loops. Into each of these loops is worked a regu- 
 lar number of buttonhole stitches sufficient to 
 completely fill the loop from one buttonhole stitch 
 to the next. The third row is like the first — a 
 row of wide Brussels net stitches. Each stitch is 
 placed in the little loop between the groups of 
 buttonhole stitches of 
 the second row. The 
 fourth row is like the 
 second. When finished 
 the groups of close but- 
 tonhole stitches should 
 form vertical rows across 
 the space filled. Care 
 should be taken not to 
 draw the work to one 
 side or the other, and in this way pull these rows 
 out of the vertical. In an oblong or long pointed 
 space, the group of close stitches at the middle of 
 the top row should extend to the extreme point 
 of the opposite end. As buttonhole stitch is made 
 more readily from the left to the right, the rows 
 of close stitches may be worked in that direction, 
 and the open rows from right to left. This is 
 accomplished by beginning the work at the upper 
 right-hand corner. 
 
 Another buttonholed net stitch is shown in Fig. 
 42. The first row of this stitch is formed by 
 working three buttonhole stitches rather close 
 together (with just a little more than room be- 
 tween them for another stitch), and then begin- 
 ning a second group of three stitches sufficiently 
 
 far from the first to 
 make the long loop be- 
 tween the two groups 
 equal in length to the 
 space occupied by the 
 groups of three stitches. 
 In the second row the 
 long loops are nearly 
 filled with a close row 
 of buttonhole stitches, 
 anil a single buttonhole stitch is placed in each of 
 the two loops formed between the groups of three 
 stitches of the previous row. The third row is 
 like the first, and the fourth row is like the second. 
 The result is a more open, fanciful arrangement 
 
 ■ 
 
 Fig. 42. 
 
 Buttonholed Net 
 Stitch. 
 
 of stitches than the preceding pattern, but, like it, 
 the rows of close buttonhole stitches form vertical 
 lines from end to end of the space filled. 
 
 Point de Venise Stitches. 
 
 Point de Venise, often called shell, seed, or side 
 stitch, is very popular, and suitable either for 
 edgings or for the filling in of spaces. For the 
 former a single row of "shells" is worked around 
 the edge of the completed lace. For filling in 
 spaces, the work is done in rows. Beginning at 
 the right-hand corner of the space to be filled, a 
 row of even, rather loose buttonhole stitches is 
 worked. The thread is carried down the side of 
 the braid the distance equal to the width of a 
 stitch. Into the first loop is pilaced a buttonhole 
 stitch, and as in the Petit Point de Venise, this 
 stitch is tied by another buttonhole stitch worked 
 sideways. This stitch should be far enough from 
 the top of the buttonhole stitch being covered to 
 accommodate three other rather tightly drawn 
 buttonhole stitches, which are worked side by side 
 and each above its predecessor until the last one 
 covers the end of the loop upon which the shell 
 is built. This shell being finished, a buttonhole 
 stitch is placed in the next loop of the first row, 
 and another shell worked upon it. In placing the 
 stitches of the shell, the 
 needle is thrust under 
 and at right angles with 
 both threads of the but- 
 tonhole stitch to be cov- 
 ered. 
 
 The size of the shell 
 depends upon the num- 
 ber of side stitches 
 worked, and upon how tightly they are drawn. 
 Four stitches is the usual number. A more curved 
 effect is obtained if the first stitch is quite tightly 
 drawn, and the others made looser. The row of 
 shells being completed, the third row is worked. 
 This consists of a row of single net stitches, one 
 buttonhole stitch being placed between each shell, 
 and the loop drawn up so as to fit like a saucer 
 around the shell above it. This gives a rather 
 close effect, and is decidedly pretty. Where a 
 more open result is desired, the loops may be 
 made larger. In this case the loops upon which 
 the shells are made must also be made larger, as 
 all the loops throughout must be of the same size. 
 
 Fig. 43. Point de Venise. 
 
 18 
 
Fig. 44. Point de Venise. 
 
 In widening, very great care must be taken not to 
 make the loops larger, 
 or stint the number of 
 shells, and so give the 
 latter part of the work 
 a straggly, loose appear- 
 ance, very different from 
 the first part. 
 
 Another variation of 
 Point de V e n i s e is 
 shown in Fig. 44. In this the row of single net 
 stitches is omitted, and a shell is worked upon 
 every loop of each row. This causes the shells of 
 the first and third rows to slant toward the left 
 while the shells of the second and fourth rows 
 slant toward the right. Worked in this way, the 
 result is a heavy, sumptuous stitch, and is very 
 beautiful. Perhaps the fact that it is so much 
 more slowly worked is the reason we find it less 
 often in use than the more favored variety with 
 the row of net stitches. 
 
 Still another Point de 
 Venise stitch, Pig. 45, is 
 varied as well as made 
 more open, and worked 
 in less time by omitting 
 every other shell. The 
 alternating rows of Brus- 
 sels net stitches are made 
 as in Fig. 43. In the 
 second row a loop is made, and a shell worked 
 upon it. A second loop has the shell omitted. 
 On the third loop a shell is worked. Alternating 
 in this way the row is finished. Great care must 
 be used in putting in the net stitches of the third 
 row to avoid skipping a stitch. A stitch must be 
 placed close upon each side of every shell of the 
 row above. This ensures a buttonhole stitch upon 
 each side of the single stitches between the 
 shells. When finished the pattern shows rows of 
 parallel diagonal lines of shells across the space 
 filled. The beauty of this stitch depends upon its 
 perfect regularity. 
 
 A pleasing arrangement of Point de Venise 
 stitches is made by working one net stitch beneath 
 which three or four side stitches are placed. This 
 stitch may be worked in two ways. The loops 
 between the single net stitches are made sufficiently 
 loose to admit of the placing of the three or four 
 siae stitches, which fill the loop until it is almost 
 Straight. The work is begun at the upper left 
 
 Fig. 45. Point de Venise. 
 
 Pig. 46. Point de Venisk. 
 
 corner, and when 
 the opposite up- 
 per right corner 
 is reached the 
 thread is fas- 
 tened to the 
 braid and carried 
 down its edge for 
 a space equal to 
 the width of the 
 stitches of the 
 first row. The second row is like the first, except 
 that it proceeds from right to left. This method 
 causes the side stitches of every alternate row to 
 point to the left, and the intervening rows to point 
 to the right. When it is desired to have all the 
 side stitches lie in the same direction, the thread, 
 at the completion of the first row, is carried to the 
 left side by thrusting the needle once through 
 each loop of the first row, and in this way carrying 
 it across the space. This gives a corded effect to 
 the loops. The thread is carried down the side of 
 the braid, and the working of the second row is 
 begun. 
 
 These Point de Venise stitches may be distin- 
 guished from each other by calling them accord- 
 ing to the number of stitches used. The two-one 
 Point de Venise stitch consists of two net stitches 
 and one side stitch. The two-two stitch is com- 
 posed of two net stitches and two side stitches. 
 The three-one is made of three net stitches and 
 one side stitch, while one net stitch and three 
 side stitches is called the one-three Point de 
 Venise. 
 
 Petit Point de Venise. 
 
 This stitch may be worked openly or as com- 
 pactly as desired. The first method gives an 
 open lacy effect, while the second shows a 
 stitch almost solid in appearance, so little space 
 is there between the stitches. Beginning at the 
 upper left corner, a 
 loose buttonhole stitch 
 is first made, and a 
 second buttonhole 
 stitch is worked side- 
 ways over or around 
 the first one. This is 
 drawn tightly, and so 
 secures the first stitch FlG - 47 ' PETIT PolNT DE Venise - 
 in place. A second loose buttonhole stitch is 
 
 19 
 
worked and tied by a " side " stitch, and this is 
 continued to the end of the row. The thread 
 is then carried down the braid for a distance equal 
 to the width of the stitch. The second row is 
 then worked in the same way as the first. This 
 is continued until the space is finished. 
 
 A pretty Point de Venise stitch is formed by a 
 
 union of the double 
 net stitch, or Point 
 de Sorrento, and 
 the side stitch. 
 The thread is fas- 
 tened at the upper 
 left corner of the 
 
 Fig. 48. Point de VeniseT* gpace to be filledj 
 
 and two net stitches set close together along the 
 
 edge of the upper 
 
 braid. These are 
 
 bound together by 
 
 a third buttonhole 
 
 stitch set sideways 
 
 across the base of 
 
 the two net stitches. 
 
 To accomplish this, 
 
 after the second net 
 
 stitch is in place, 
 
 Fig. 49. Point de Venise. 
 
 Fig. 50. Point de Venise. 
 
 the needle is thrust in the loop at the left of the 
 
 two stitches, and 
 drawn up closely 
 in the buttonhole 
 knot. Two more 
 net stitches are 
 then made in the 
 edge of the braid 
 at a distance from 
 the first pair equal 
 to the space they 
 occupy, and with 
 the connecting loop drawn sufficiently tight to 
 make the rows of stitches lie in straight, parallel 
 lines. The side stitch is then placed in position 
 beneath them, and the work continued to the end 
 of the row. The second row is like the first, except 
 that in working from right to left the direction of 
 the stitches is reversed. 
 
 Variations of this stitch are formed by placing 
 two side stitches beneath to guard the two net 
 stitches, or by working three net stitches with one 
 side stitch. Other variations of these useful 
 stitches will suggest themselves to the lace 
 maker. 
 
 Point d'Espagne — Spanish Point Stitches. 
 
 The Spanish point stitches form a group of very 
 distinctive difference from the other lace stitches. 
 Instead of the scalloped or looped appearance of 
 the foregoing stitches, they produce a rectangular 
 effect of horizontal parallel lines connected at right 
 angles by the vertical twisted stitches. Their 
 appearance is very open and effective, and, besides 
 making very good filling-in stitches for the design 
 of the pattern, they give excellent results when 
 used to fill in backgrounds. As in all the filling 
 stitches, the lines must be perfectly even and reg- 
 ular to obtain a satisfactory effect. 
 
 Open Spanish Point. 
 
 The long effect of the stitch is the result of the 
 extra twist given the thread by the method of 
 forming the stitch. The thread is fastened at the 
 upper left corner of the space and carried down 
 the edge of the left-hand braid for the required 
 distance, or the width of the stitch, which varies 
 in length according to the degree of fineness or 
 coarseness of the 
 working thread. 
 The thumb of the 
 left hand is placed 
 upon the thread as 
 near the braid as is 
 conveniently prac- 
 tical. The thread 
 
 is then carried to Fig. 51. Open Spanish Point. 
 
 the right of the thumb, and again placed under it 
 in such a way that the thumb holds down both 
 sides of the loop which is beneath it. The needle 
 is then thrust at the proper place through the 
 upper braid, over the nearer thread of the loop, 
 and under the farther thread. The thumb is kept 
 on the loop until the working thread has been 
 drawn nearly to the completion of the stitch. 
 This is repeated to the end of the row, when the 
 work is reversed and the second row of stitches 
 put in. This is accomplished by forming the 
 loop on the left side of the thumb, proceeding 
 as before. This method of working the stitch is 
 clearly illustrated in Fig. 51. 
 
 Spanish Point. 
 
 The first row of this stitch is worked just as is 
 the first row of the preceding one. At the com- 
 pletion of the row the working thread is car- 
 
 20 
 
=ttj =c 
 
 Fig. 52. Spanish Point. 
 
 ried back to the 
 left side of the 
 space by passing 
 the needle once 
 through each loop 
 of the first row 
 and drawing the 
 thread up tight. 
 Only one stitch 
 can successfully be 
 taken up by the needle at a time, as putting the 
 needle through several loops and then drawing 
 the thread is very apt to prdl the stitches out 
 of place, and so make them slant instead of 
 maintaining the desired vertical position. 
 
 When the working thread has reached the left 
 side of the space, it is carried down the edge of 
 the braid and the second row of loop stitches 
 worked. 
 
 Spanish Point. 
 
 A very pretty variation of this stitch is formed 
 by placing the stitches in groups. See Fig. 53. 
 
 Three Spanish point stitches are worked at 
 regular, somewhat close intervals, as in the 
 former stitch. Space enough for two stitches 
 is omitted, and the first stitch of the next group 
 of three stitches is placed just where the sixth 
 stitch would have been worked had not the 
 stitches belonging to the fourth and fifth spaces 
 been omitted. 
 
 These groups of 
 three stitches are 
 continued across 
 the space and the 
 working thread 
 entered into the 
 luaid. The needle 
 is then thrust once 
 through each of the 
 two smaller loops 
 and twice through 
 the longer loop that separates the' groups of 
 stitches. When the thread has been brought 
 clear across the space, it is entered into the 
 braid and carried by overcasting stitches the 
 necessary distance along the edge of the braid. 
 
 The second row of the groups of stitches is then 
 begun. The first stitch of the first group is placed 
 in the loop between the first and second stitches of 
 the row above. The second stitch is placed in the 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 PSsELnfifi 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Fig. 53. Spanish Poiht. 
 
 other or following loop, and the third or last stitch 
 of the group is placed on the long loop just beyond 
 the third stitch of the row above. This is contin- 
 ued across the space. The thread is carried back 
 to the left side of the space as before by thrusting 
 it through the loops of the last row. 
 
 Each succeeding row is begun by placing the 
 first stitch to the right of the first stitch of the 
 preceding row, and the result is a series of 
 diagonal lines of stitches in groups of three, 
 extending from the upper left corner of the 
 space toward the lower right corner. 
 
 Another combination consists of a group of six 
 Spanish point stitches set close together, followed 
 by a space wide enough for four stitches. See 
 Fig. 54. Another group of six stitches is worked 
 and followed by another space the size of the 
 
 former one. 
 This is con- 
 tinued until 
 the braid at 
 the opposite 
 side is 
 
 reached. The 
 thread is then 
 carried in the 
 regular way 
 back to the left side of the space. A stitch is 
 worked in the loop following the second stitch of 
 the first group of six stitches of the row above. 
 This is followed by a stitch in each of the two 
 following loops, and results in a trio of stitches 
 directly under the middle of the group of six 
 stitches above. 
 
 Three other stitches are worked in the open 
 space or long loop, and these are followed by 
 another trio of stitches worked under the middle 
 of the second group of six stitches above. This is 
 continued to the end of the space. The third row 
 is like the first and the fourth is like the second. 
 
 Another arrangement of the Spanish stitches 
 is shown in Fig. 55. The first row consists of 
 stitches placed closely together at regular inter- 
 vals across the space. At the completion of each 
 row the working thread is overcast back to the left 
 side of the space. The second row consists of 
 four stitches placed in each of the first four loops 
 between the stitches of the preceding row. One 
 loop is omitted and another group of four stitches 
 worked. This is continued across the space. The 
 third row consists of groups of three stitches 
 
 Fig. 54. Spanish Point. 
 
 21 
 
Fig. 55. Spanish Point. 
 
 placed in the loops between the groups of four 
 stitches of the second row. The fourth row con- 
 sists of groups of 
 two stitches placed 
 between the 
 groups of three of 
 the preceding row, 
 and the fifth row 
 consists of one 
 stitch between the 
 two of the fourth 
 row and forms the 
 point of the tri- 
 angle. The sixth row is a repetition of the first, 
 and a row of new points is begun. A long, narrow 
 diamond design may be made by reversing the 
 order of the stitches at the beginning of the second 
 row of points. To accomplish this a row of two 
 stitches would be worked on the row following 
 the fifth row of single stitches. This would be 
 increased to three stitches in the next row, and so 
 continued until the ninth row would be reached 
 and worked like the first. 
 
 Spanish Point Insertion. 
 
 Long, narrow spaces may be filled with Spanish 
 point stitches. Row after row of these stitches 
 are worked along the length of the space, and may 
 be so continued until the opposite edge of the 
 
 space is reached, 
 when the returning 
 thread is used to at- 
 tach the last row of 
 stitches to the adj oin- 
 ing braid. In the 
 case of spaces of 
 irregular width, 
 when only one row 
 of stitches remains 
 to be worked at the 
 narrow parts of the 
 space, the pattern is turned around, and the last 
 row worked from the edge of the second braid, 
 and each stitch, as the work proceeds, is attached 
 by overcasting stitches to the already finished 
 rows. Where the space is wider, longer stitches 
 are formed by increasing the number of the twist- 
 ings of the working thread around the stitch, as 
 shown in the illustration. A little practice will 
 enable the worker to adapt this stitch to spaces of 
 different shapes. 
 
 Fig. 56. Spanish Point Insertion. 
 
 Shell Insertion. 
 
 One of the most beautiful of all the insertions is 
 composed of Spanish point stitches. The thread 
 is fastened at the upper left corner of the space, 
 or, in the case of an oval-shaped space, in the 
 upper point. It is then carried by overcasting 
 stitches down the left edge of the braid, a distance 
 equal to the length of the Spanish point stitches. 
 Into the middle of the braid, at the end of the 
 space, four Spanish point stitches are w r orked, 
 entering the same point in 
 the braid. The thread is 
 then attached to the edge 
 of the braid at the right side 
 of the space exactly the 
 same distance from the cor- 
 ner as it is on the left side. 
 The working thread is over- 
 cast once (or twice if the 
 space be wide) over the 
 straight thread connected 
 with the braid at the right 
 side and once over each 
 small loop between the 
 Spanish point stitches, and, 
 finally, once or twice over 
 the thread connected with 
 the braid at the left side. 
 It is then carried down the side of the braid the 
 same distance as before, and four Spanish point 
 stitches are placed between the second and third 
 stitches of the first row. The thread is again 
 fastened to the braid and overcast through the 
 stitches to the left side of the space, and the work 
 so continued until the space is filled. 
 
 Spanish Net Stitches. 
 
 The various arrangements and groupings of the 
 Spanish net stitches form many beautiful and 
 
 practical n e t w or k s . 
 Where a very close ef- 
 fect is desired, good 
 results may be obtained 
 by working row after 
 row of close Spanish net 
 stitches as shown in 
 Fig. 58. Beginning at 
 the upper left corner 
 of the space, a row of 
 Spanish net stitches is 
 worked, with just space 
 
 Fig. 57. Shell Insertion. 
 
 Fig. 58. Spanish Net. 
 
 22 
 
enough between them to provide room for the 
 stitches of the next row, one of which is placed 
 on each tiny loop between the stitches of the pre- 
 ceding row. The second row may be worked 
 from right to left, or, when a heavier effect is 
 desired, the working thread may be carried to 
 the left side by overcasting it once through each 
 loop. 
 
 Double Spanish Net 
 
 Is the more open result obtained when the stitches 
 are arranged in pairs. Two close Spanish net 
 stitches are worked ; a space sufficient to accom- 
 modate two more stitches is left open, and is 
 followed by a second pair of stitches similar to 
 the first pair. In other words, the stitches are 
 exactly as in close Spanish net, except that every 
 
 other pair of 
 stitches is 
 omitted. In this 
 stitch, to obtain 
 good results, it 
 is necessary on 
 reaching the end 
 of each row to 
 overcast the 
 working thread 
 through the loops 
 back to the left 
 side of the space. 
 This maintains 
 the parallel effect 
 desired. The second row is exactly like the first, 
 except that the pairs of stitches are placed upon 
 the long bar between the pairs of stitches of the 
 preceding row. 
 
 Triple Spanish Net. 
 
 Still another arrangement is called triple Spanish 
 net, or treble Point d'Espagne. This arrangement 
 
 is exactly 
 like t h e 
 d o ub 1 e 
 Spanish 
 net, except 
 that the 
 stitches a re 
 in groups 
 of threes 
 instead of 
 being in pairs as in the double Spanish stitch. 
 
 Fig. 59. Double Spanish Net. 
 
 I j 
 
 L1L 
 
 i 
 
 
 i ii 
 
 
 1 1 | 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i rfr 
 
 
 
 n ii 
 
 U ' 
 
 £■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 u 
 
 5X53J 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i ii 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 ^ i i"/i" 
 
 E 
 
 i ii it i 
 
 1 
 
 'WAV 
 
 
 j H n ' r r r _ 
 
 Fig. 61. Spanish Net. 
 
 Fig. 60. Triple Spanish Net. 
 
 Grouped Spanish Net. 
 
 This illustration shows an arrangement of Span- 
 ish net stitches in groups of six. Six close Spanish 
 net stitches are worked from left to right across 
 the space, with exactly the same space between 
 the groups as they themselves occupy, so that the 
 groups of six stitches of the next row, which will 
 be worked on the bars between the spaces of the 
 first row, will exactly fill them, with no room to 
 spare, and no crowding. Great care must be taken 
 to keep the long loops or bars between the groups 
 drawn sufficiently tight to keep the lower edge of 
 
 tlie stitches 
 exactly par- 
 allel with the 
 upper edge 
 all along the 
 length of the 
 row. 
 
 When the 
 first row is 
 completed the 
 thread is car- 
 ried to the left 
 side of the 
 space by overcasting it once through each little 
 loop between the stitches of each group, and several 
 times, carefully and smoothly, over the long loop 
 or bar between the groups. The second row of 
 stitches is then worked in groups of six over the 
 long bars of the preceding row, and the thread 
 again brought, by overcasting, to the left side. 
 The third and succeeding rows are then worked 
 until the space is filled. When carefully done, 
 the alternating filled and open spaces appear as 
 little oblongs regularly placed. This stitch may 
 be worked from side to side without overcasting 
 the thread back to the left side after each row, but 
 great care must be taken to get the loops or bars 
 even and of equal length. 
 
 Somewhat more elaborate is the network shown 
 in Fig. 62. The thread is fastened as usual at the 
 upper left corner of the space. Two close Spanish 
 net stitches are worked. A space just equal to 
 that required for five close Spanish net stitches is 
 left without stitches ; then two more close Spanish 
 net stitches are worked. This is continued to the 
 end of the row. The working thread is then 
 overcast once through each of the small loops 
 between the pairs of Spanish net stitches, and 
 several times over the long loop or bar. The 
 
 23 
 
Fig. 02. Spanish Net. 
 
 second row consists of groups of five Spanish net 
 stitches worked over each long loop or bar. The 
 
 thread is 
 again overcast 
 to the left 
 side, and the 
 third row be- 
 gun. This is 
 like the first 
 row, and is 
 composed of 
 pairs of Span- 
 ish net stitches 
 worked over 
 the loops be- 
 tween the 
 groups of five stitches of the second row. After 
 •each row the thread is overcast to the left side of 
 the space, unless it is preferred to work alternately 
 from left to right, and right to left. When finished, 
 this network presents a broken check appearance, 
 ■of oblongs and little squares, that is very effective. 
 In the Spanish Net stitch illustrated in Fig. 
 63 the thread is fastened in the corner and then 
 ■carried by overcasting stitches along the edge of 
 the braid about a quarter of an inch below. A net 
 stitch is then placed in the upper braid about one- 
 eighth of an inch from the comer. This is followed 
 
 by two other net 
 stitches set close 
 together. A sec- 
 ond group of three 
 stitches is then 
 worked at a dis- 
 t a n c e from the 
 first group equal 
 to their own 
 width. Between 
 these groups of 
 net stitches the 
 thread is allowed 
 to fall in a long loop that reaches a very little 
 below the level of the thread at its starting-point. 
 These loose loops and groups of three net stitches 
 are continued across the width of the space. 
 The thread is then carried to the same distance 
 from the corner as it is at the opposite side. 
 
 In every long loop of the first row three close 
 buttonhole stitches are worked, and the intervening 
 thread drawn quite tight in order to form a straight 
 line across the space. The thread is then carried 
 
 Fig. 63. Spanish Net Stitch. 
 
 = ■PrA aifeiij a gi— 1^^ 
 
 Fig. 64. Spanish Net Stitch. 
 
 along the edge of the braid for the same distance 
 as before, and three buttonhole stitches are worked 
 beneath the three of the former row, leaving the 
 long loop between each group. These three 
 stitches are not placed in the loops between the 
 
 former groups of 
 stitches, but the 
 needle is thrust 
 between the two 
 threads of each 
 buttonhole stitch. 
 This brings the 
 n e w r o w o f 
 stitches exactly 
 beneath the other 
 three above. 
 
 A variation of this stitch is shown in Fig. 64, and 
 is obtained by working only two buttonhole stitches 
 in each group of this row, and putting them on the 
 loops between the buttonhole stitches of the former 
 row. 
 
 Venetian or Point de Sorrento Stitch. 
 
 Point de Sorrento. — Line Stitch. — The Vene- 
 tian stitches form one of the prettiest and most 
 effective groups of stitches used. They are always 
 less transparent than similar stitches without the 
 straight line. When worked openly they present a 
 cobwebby, misty effect that is decidedly beautiful. 
 The thread is fastened at the left-hand corner 
 
 of the space to be 
 filled, and a row 
 of single net 
 stitches is worked 
 across the space 
 at regular dis- 
 tances from each 
 other, and f a r 
 enough apart to 
 leave medium-sized loops between, as is shown in 
 the illustration. When the end of the row is 
 reached, the thread is carried down the side of the 
 braid, until it is on a line with the lower edge of 
 the loops. It is then carried across the space in a 
 straight line, and passed through the edge of the 
 braid at the left side. Care must be taken to have 
 the thread tight enough to admit of no sagging, 
 but not tight enough to draw the braid one particle 
 from its place, and each successive line must be 
 exactly parallel with its predecessors. 
 
 The second row of loops is then worked, and in 
 
 Fig. 65. Line Stitch. 
 
 24 
 
every stitch the needle is thrust through the loop 
 above and back of the parallel thread, so that it is 
 always held with the loop in the twist of the net 
 stitch, and forms a part of the body of the lace. 
 
 A very novel effect is produced by missing some 
 of the loops of the network, and in the next row 
 working the same number of stitches in the loops 
 so formed. The result is a series of open spaces 
 in the close net work that is very odd. These 
 open spaces may be placed at regular intervals over 
 the entire network, or may be so spaced as to 
 form a design. In Fig. 66 the first row is a series 
 of close buttonhole stitches. The thread is then 
 carried back to the opposite side, and a second row 
 of buttonhole stitches over it is begun. Four of 
 these stitches are placed, and the next four omitted. 
 The following six 
 
 Fig. 66. Venetian Stitch. 
 
 are worked, and 
 the next four 
 omitted. The next 
 four are w o r k e d. 
 The next row is 
 worked without 
 any omissions. 
 When the open 
 spaces are reached, 
 the same number of stitches are worked in each as 
 were omitted in the former row. In the following 
 row the open space is left just between and below 
 the two spaces of the upper row. Another com- 
 plete row follows. The sixth row is a repetition 
 of the second row. 
 
 Double Venetian or Cobweb Stitch. 
 
 One of the most beautiful and popular of all the 
 lace stitches is the double Venetian. This is made 
 in the same way 
 as the single Ve- 
 netian, except 
 that, instead of 
 a single button- 
 hole s t i t c h in 
 each loop, two 
 are used. The 
 two stitches aid 
 each other in 
 
 keeping the thread firmly in place, and make a 
 very regular, substantial filling, that has a very 
 fine lace-like appearance. The loop between the 
 stitches is left loose and held in place with a pin 
 as shown in the illustration. 
 
 Fig. 67. Cobweb Stitch. 
 
 This stitch may also be made with three button- 
 hole stitches in each loop, as shown in Fig. 68. 
 Worked in 
 this way the 
 effect is de- 
 cidedly close 
 and solid, un- 
 less the loops 
 are made suf- 
 ficiently large 
 to allow ample 
 space for the 
 three stitches. 
 
 =lffi 
 
 ESi 
 
 Ht 
 
 h 
 
 TfW 
 
 II ii n ii ii ii 
 MTU II II lllfrr 
 
 EH = 
 
 
 l|j_ 
 
 
 L 
 
 
 II IIIIIIIIIIIHI 
 
 
 
 
 
 -1 - 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 = 1 ~ 
 
 
 
 Fig. 68. Venetian Stitch. 
 
 Darned Figures on Venetian Background. 
 
 After a space has been filled with the plain, 
 close Venetian stitch, it may be embellished in a 
 variety of ways, and so made very effective and 
 rich in appearance. With a fine linen floss, or 
 other loosely twisted thread, pretty tufts or spots 
 may be darned over two rows of the Venetian 
 background. When worked at regular intervals, 
 they add greatly to the richness of the work. 
 Stars and trefoils in bullion stitch, buttonholed 
 rings, and other fancy stitches may also be used. 
 
 When a very solid, cloth-like effect is desired, 
 the Venetian stitch is worked with the net stitches 
 very close together. Only sufficient room is left 
 for the placing of 
 the net stitch of 
 the succeeding 
 row. The straight 
 tli read aids also 
 in producing an 
 almost solid effect. 
 This compact 
 method of work- 
 ing this stitch is 
 seen most frequently in Venetian lace, where it is 
 used as a filling for leaves, scrolls, and various 
 parts of the design to be thrown out most effect- 
 ively by the open background of Raleigh bars, or 
 the even regular net ground. 
 
 Spider or Wheel Stitch. 
 
 This is a very rich and beautiful filling for large 
 spaces. Beginning at the upper left corner, a diag- 
 onal line is laid across the space at an angle of 
 forty-five degrees. The thread is then returned, 
 but without twisting, to the first end of the diago- 
 nal line, so that the two threads form a double line 
 
 iraraB 
 
 Fig. 69. Venetian Stitch, 
 
 25 
 
Fig. 70. Spider or Wheel Stitch. 
 
 lying close together but not crossing. At the se- 
 lected distance a second line parallel with the first 
 is laid across the space, and the thread as before 
 returned to its beginning. This is repeated until 
 the space is filled with rows of double parallel 
 lines at equal distances apart. 
 
 Beginning near the upper right corner, a diago- 
 nal line is laid across the first lines at an angle of 
 forty-five degrees, which makes it at right angles 
 
 with the first se- 
 ries. The thread, 
 on its return to 
 the starting place, 
 is passed three or 
 four times around 
 the threads of the 
 i n t e r s e c t i o ns, 
 which are not tied. 
 This working 
 th read must al- 
 ways pass under 
 the double threads 
 of the completed 
 series of parallel lines and over the single lines. 
 When the wheel is sufficiently large, the thread is 
 passed to the next intersection (which in case of 
 the first row is the braid). A second thread is 
 thrown across the space parallel with the first, and 
 upon its return wheels are made at each intersec- 
 tion. This is continued until the space is filled. 
 
 Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Point). 
 
 A very pretty arrangement of Brussels point 
 stitches is shown in Fig. 71. A row of net stitches 
 
 is worked in pairs 
 across the space. 
 The two stitches are 
 placed nearly but 
 not quite close to- 
 gether. A space 
 slightly greater than 
 that occupied by 
 these pairs of 
 stitches is left be- 
 tween each group. 
 The second row consists of a single net stitch 
 placed between the pairs of net stitches forming the 
 groups of the first row. The third row is formed 
 by placing two net stitches in every loop formed 
 by the distance between the single net stitches of the 
 second row. The fourth row is like the second. 
 
 Fig. 71. Point de Bruxelles. 
 
 
 Fig. 72. Point de Bruxelles. 
 
 Point de Bruxelles. 
 
 Another variation of Brussels point is made by 
 arranging the stitches in points or triangles. In 
 Fig. 72, the first row consists of Brussels point 
 stitches in an even, regular row just far enough 
 apart from each other to easily accommodate the 
 stitches of the next row. In the second row two 
 stitches (or one loop) are omitted, and one net stitch 
 worked in each of the next two loops. Two more 
 stitches are omitted and followed by two net 
 
 stitches, one 
 placed in each 
 of the two loops 
 following. This 
 arrangement of 
 two stitches and 
 an omitted loop 
 is continued to 
 the end of the 
 row. 
 
 In the third 
 row one net stitch 
 is placed between each group of two net stitches 
 of the second row. This row should be worked 
 just loose enough to allow the long loops between 
 the single net stitches to fall in very slightly 
 curved lines. The fourth row is worked by plac- 
 ing three net stitches on each of the long loops of 
 the fourth row. This is the first row of the second 
 series of triangles, and is followed by a row of net 
 stitches in pairs placed in the same way as in the 
 second row, that is, two net stitches, one in each 
 loop, and then the omission of one loop, followed by 
 two more net stitches. The next row is the row 
 of single net stitches that form the points of the 
 triangle. 
 
 Larger triangles (see Fig. 73) are worked in the 
 same way, except that the number of stitches in 
 the triangles is increased, and consequently more 
 
 rows are re- 
 quired to com- 
 plete the fig- 
 ures. 
 
 The first 
 row is the 
 same continu- 
 ous r o w of 
 single net 
 stitches as is 
 shown in the 
 smaller tri- 
 
 
 Fig. 73. Point de Bruxelles. 
 
 26 
 
angles. In the second row four stitches are worked 
 and one loop omitted. In the third row three 
 stitches are placed in the three loops of the pre- 
 ceding row, and so the work is continued till the 
 points of the triangles are formed. 
 
 In this stitch, the loops being longer, they must 
 be kept tight or straight enough to prevent the 
 work from becoming too full for the space it occu- 
 pies, and so the group of five stitches that begin 
 each series or row of triangles may just fill the 
 long loop prepared for them between the single 
 stitches of the last row. 
 
 Many very pleasing results may be obtained by 
 the arranging and grouping in various ways of 
 Brussels net stitches. In Fig. 74 the first row con- 
 sists of a series of single net stitches set at regular 
 distances apart. The second row is the same 
 until the middle loop is reached, when three net 
 stitches instead of one are worked. The single 
 
 net stitches 
 are then con- 
 tinued to the 
 end of the 
 row. In the 
 third row a 
 group of 
 three net 
 s t i t c h es is 
 placed in the 
 first whole 
 loop at the 
 right of the 
 group of three in the second row. A single net 
 stitch is placed in the half loop at either side ad- 
 joining the group of three in the second row. In 
 the next whole loop following, a second group of 
 three stitches is worked. The fourth row is like 
 the first. This brings the three net stitches ex- 
 actly below those of the second row, and completes 
 the quadrilateral or diamond-shaped pattern of 
 the design. 
 
 In the fifth row two figures are to be begun, so 
 the first group of three stitches is placed in the 
 third whole loop preceding the close stitches of 
 the row before, and another group of three is 
 placed in the third whole loop following the close 
 stitches of the previous row. These two groups 
 of close stitches are the upper ends of the two 
 quadrilateral figures to be worked. In the next 
 row the close net stitches are, as in the third row, 
 placed in the first whole loop at the right and at 
 
 H II ' 
 
 JJ 
 
 □ 
 
 
 
 L|0 
 
 II 
 
 
 II 
 
 lUL 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Tn 
 
 3 
 
 i 
 
 
 Mo 1 
 
 l 
 
 
 n 
 
 r nP 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 FaBl 
 
 Fir.. 74. POINT DE Bruxelles. 
 
 the left of the group in the row above. The plac- 
 ing of the groups in the seventh row just beneath 
 those of the fifth row completes this group of 
 quadrilaterals. 
 
 Point de Bruxelles, "Pea" Stitch. 
 
 One of the prettiest of all arrangements of the 
 Brussels net stitches is the one commonly known 
 as the pea stitch, because of the open pea-shaped 
 spaces formed by the method of the grouping of 
 the stitches. This stitch is excellent for the filling 
 in with networks of large spaces, and belongs to 
 the design stitches, and not to the background 
 stitches. 
 
 A row of Brussels net stitches is worked across 
 the upper edge of the space to be filled. They 
 should be placed regularly at even distances apart, 
 and with room enough between them to place the 
 stitches of the next row. In the second row a 
 single net stitch is placed in the last loop of the 
 first row. Two loops, which include three but- 
 tonhole stitches, are 
 missed, and then 
 one net stitch is 
 worked in each of 
 the next two loops. 
 Two more loops are 
 missed, and then 
 two more net 
 stitches are placed 
 in the next two 
 loops, and so the 
 work is continued 
 until the end of the row is reached. The third 
 row is the row requiring care lest a mistake be 
 made. Three net stitches are worked on the long 
 loop of the previous row, and a single net stitch is 
 placed between the two stitches between the long 
 loops. The fourth row is like the second, and the 
 fifth row is like the third. The long loop must be 
 sufficiently loose to allow the curved appearance 
 necessary to make the large openings nearly round. 
 
 Greek Net Stitch. 
 
 Greek net stitch is excellent for filling in large 
 spaces, and is often used instead of spiders and 
 twisted bars for the filling in of the background of 
 lace patterns. As the beauty of this stitch lies in 
 the perfection with which it is made, absolute 
 regularity in the length and spacing of the stitches 
 is necessary. The thread is fastened at the upper 
 
 Point de Bruxelles, 
 " Pea " Stitch. 
 
 27 
 
left corner of the space to be filled and carried 
 
 down the side 
 
 of the braid a 
 
 distance nearly 
 
 twice the length 
 
 of a Spanish net 
 
 stitch. At the 
 
 same distance 
 
 from the right 
 
 of the corner, 
 
 the needle is 
 
 thrust into the 
 
 edge, of the Fig. 76. Greek Net Stitch. 
 
 braid, and a single Spanish net stitch worked. 
 The thread is left loose or slack enough to fall 
 in a rather long or decided loop equal in length 
 to two of the Spanish net stitches. These single 
 stitches are worked at regular distances across the 
 entire length of the space, and are lifted up or 
 shortened by a thrust of the needle in order to 
 lengthen the loops and keep the net stitches the 
 length of one side of the hexagon under construc- 
 tion. Each loop forms two sides of the hexagon. 
 When the first row is completed, the thread is 
 carried through the braid by a single stitch, and 
 is overcast twice over each loop, evenly, and with- 
 out drawing the loop out of its proper position, 
 until the opposite side of the space is reached. 
 The thread is then overcast along the edge of the 
 braid the required distance, and a second row of 
 single Spanish net stitches, like the first row, is 
 made. The fourth row, like the second, consists 
 of two overcasting stitches in each loop of the 
 previous row. 
 
 Point Turque — Turkish Point. 
 
 The distinctive feature of Turkish point is the 
 way in which the threads are knotted. When a 
 diamond-shaped mesh is desired, the straight 
 thread crossing the space may be omitted. 
 When there is danger of not getting the loops 
 exactly the same length, it is wise to thrust a pin 
 through the pattern at the proper place, and pass 
 the thread to form the loop around it. The expe- 
 rienced worker will doubtless find this use of the 
 pin unnecessary. The thread is fastened in the 
 upper left corner, and is carried down the edge of 
 the braid a distance from the upper braid equal 
 to the required length of the loops. The first 
 stitch in the upper braid is placed a distance 
 from the corner just half the width of the re- 
 
 
 
 u 
 
 ii ii ii i 
 
 
 J 
 
 
 I III 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 fr (tWW r i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 n 
 
 
 
 
 
 un 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 'fX' V-tf 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 • 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 nrti 
 
 
 
 liiu 
 
 
 
 Fig. 77. Point Turque. 
 
 quired diamond. As the triangles formed by 
 each row of loops should be equilateral, each fol- 
 lowing stitch should be a distance from the pre- 
 ceding one equal to the length of one-half, or one 
 side of the loop. To make the knot used in this 
 stitch, the thread is laid in a circular loop just 
 below the braid at the point of the proposed stitch. 
 This loop is formed by passing the thread in a 
 curve toward the right, extending close to the 
 upper braid, and passing around toward the left 
 and over the beginning of the loop. The needle is 
 then thrust through the braid, under the upper 
 curve of the loop, 
 over the lower 
 curve, and drawn 
 up into a tight 
 knot. This 
 stitch, repeated 
 at regular inter- 
 vals between 
 loops of exactly 
 the same length, 
 forms the first 
 row. The thread 
 is then attached 
 to the braid at the right side, and carried down 
 its edge to a point exactly in line with the 
 middle of the loops. It is then carried across the 
 space in a line parallel to the upper braid and 
 attached to it. The next row is exactly like the 
 first, the straight thread taking the place of the 
 upper braid, and the needle at each stitch being 
 passed under the loop above, under the straight 
 thread, under the upper curve of the laid loop, 
 over the lower curve of the loop, and drawn up 
 into a tight knot. 
 
 Turkish Point. 
 
 Another form of Turkish point is usually made 
 without the straight parallel lines thrown across 
 
 the space. 
 They may be 
 made, if de- 
 sired. The 
 thread in this 
 illustration is 
 fastened i n 
 the upper 
 right corner 
 of the space. 
 A short dis- 
 
 Fig. 78. Point Turque. tance from 
 
 
 2S 
 
the corner a plain buttonhole stitch is worked in the 
 upper braid. Close to this a Turkish point stitch 
 is worked. At the required distance from this pair 
 of stitches a second pair is placed, with the loop 
 between the two pairs long or slack. This is re- 
 peated to the end of the row. The thread is then 
 carried down the side of the space, and the second 
 row begun. This is like the first except that, being 
 begun at the left side, the plain buttonhole stitch 
 is each time at the left of the Turkish point stitch. 
 This is continued until the second and each suc- 
 ceeding row is completed. 
 
 Point de Filet. Net Groundwork Stitch. 
 
 Point de Filet is an easy, speedy, and, at the 
 same time, very beautiful stitch used for back- 
 ground or groundwork, instead of Brussels net. 
 It is really an imitation of netting. It is worked 
 diagonally across the space to be filled. The 
 thread is fastened at the upper left corner of the 
 space, and brought down the edge of the braid a 
 distance equal to one side of the desired squares 
 of the network. It is then carried across the left 
 
 corner of the 
 space, and 
 fastened t o 
 the upper 
 braid at a 
 point equally 
 distant from 
 the corner. 
 The loop 
 must be just 
 twice the 
 length of the 
 proposed 
 square, s o 
 that when held in place by the knots of the next 
 row it will form two sides of the corner square. 
 The thread is then carried along the edge of the 
 upper braid the same distance as before, and is 
 fastened into the corner loop by means of a Turk- 
 ish net stitch. The thread is then attached to the 
 braid at the left the same distance as before from 
 the adjoining fastening. These rows of diagonal 
 loops, secured by knots of Turkish net stitch, are 
 continued until the space is filled. The beauty of 
 this stitch lies in its perfect accuracy. The verti- 
 cal lines must be parallel and the horizontal lines 
 must be parallel. This necessitates the making of 
 all the loops of exactly the same length. To facil- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 f.ii N ottt 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 BH 
 
 
 
 
 n — ft 1 ' 
 
 
 
 
 Fir.. 79. Point de Filet. 
 
 Fig. 80. Point de Filet. 
 
 itate this, pins may be stuck into the pattern at 
 the right places, and the thread passed under them 
 when the loops are being made. The work may be 
 made still easier, if, before the stitch is begun, the 
 space to be filled is checked off on the pattern 
 with pen or pencil. Upon the finished network 
 the various stitches used in netting, and many 
 beautiful lace stitches, may be worked. 
 
 Point de Filet. 
 
 This stitch shows another method of tying the 
 knot in point de filet. The thread is secured to 
 the loops above it by a single Brussels net or 
 
 buttonhole stitch. 
 
 igKViHHHrw <* u Mn m jAifwa^gj >pi ie ne edle is then 
 
 passed under this 
 buttonhole stitch or 
 knot, over the work- 
 ing thread, under 
 it, and drawn up 
 tightly. This 
 
 method very closely 
 simulates netting 
 and makes a good 
 background for other 
 stitches. 
 Bruges Stitch. 
 
 The Bruges lace stitch is well adapted for the 
 filling of large spaces, and may be used with or 
 without the rosettes that give it its elaborate 
 appearance. 
 
 Fasten the thread at the front left corner of the 
 space, and overcast it along the edge of the nearer 
 braid for the distance of one-fourth of an inch. 
 Carry the thread across the space to the back or 
 farther braid, and fasten it with a buttonhole stitch 
 
 just one-fourth of 
 an inch from the 
 back left corner. 
 Overcast the 
 thread along the 
 edge of the braid 
 for a distance of' 
 one - sixteenth of 
 an inch. About 
 three-sixteenths of 
 an inch from the back braid work a single button- 
 hole stitch over the long thread thrown across the 
 space. Over the length of this buttonhole stitch 
 place two other buttonhole stitches close together 
 and extending toward the front end of the space. 
 
 Fir,. Rl. Bruges Stitch. 
 
 29 
 
This is exactly as the " shells " in Point de Venise 
 are made, only two instead of four stitches are 
 used. This forms the " knots " that hold the 
 parallel threads in place. One-half inch nearer 
 the front braid work another buttonhole stitch over 
 the long thread and fill its length as before with 
 two buttonhole stitches. Repeat this at intervals 
 of half an inch until the nearer or front braid is 
 reached. Overcast the working thread along the 
 edge of the braid for half an inch, and carry it 
 across the space in a line parallel with the first 
 thread. Fasten it with a single buttonhole stitch 
 to the edge of the braid. If the thread is kept 
 parallel, this point of attachment will be exactly 
 half an inch from the first thread. Again carry 
 the thread one-sixteenth of an inch to the right of 
 the thread just fastened. At spaces exactly in line, 
 from right to left, with the knots of the first row, 
 make a new series of knots exactly one-half inch 
 apart. Continue this until the entire space is filled 
 with parallel lines from front to back of the space 
 and at even distances apart, and whose knots form 
 parallel rows from right to left across the space. 
 The work is now ready for the second series of 
 parallel lines, which must intersect the first series 
 exactly half way between the knots of the first 
 rows. Turn the work around so that the finished 
 lines extend from right to left instead of from 
 front to back. This places the working of the 
 second lines in the same position for working as 
 were the first lines. Carry the working thread 
 by overcasting stitches along the edge of the braids 
 until a thread carried across the space wdl inter- 
 sect the parallel lines almost half-way between the 
 first two rows of knots. Fasten this thread with a 
 buttonhole stitch and overcast it one-sixteenth of 
 an inch along the edge of the braid. Work a but- 
 tonhole stitch over this long thread just as far 
 from the intersection of the two lines as are the 
 knots of the first lines. Over this buttonhole stitch 
 work the two close buttonhole stitches that form 
 the knot. Work another buttonhole stitch over the 
 long thread exactly at the point of intersection. 
 Work the two stitches that are to form the knot 
 over both the buttonhole stitch and the threads of 
 the finished line./ Draw these stitches tight. This 
 knot holds the two sets of lines together. At the 
 proper place on the long thread (which is the same 
 distance from the intersection as the other three 
 knots surrounding it, and is also half-way between 
 the first and second parallel lines already finished ) 
 
 work another knot. Continue in this way until this 
 line and the others which are necessary to fill the 
 space are completed. This results in the open 
 Bruges lace stitch, which is very effective when an 
 open network is desired. 
 
 When it is decided to have the rosettes at the 
 intersections, they are worked as each intersection 
 is reached. The work is exactly as above until 
 the knot which ties the intersecting threads has 
 been worked (see Fig. 81). Around this knot the 
 working thread is woven two or three times, by 
 passing it over and under the surrounding threads 
 in the manner of making a spider, as shown by the 
 position of the needle in Fig. 81. This weaving 
 being completed, the work of making the knots 
 that form the rosette is begun at the space to 
 the left of the long thread. In this right angle 
 between the front aud left-hand threads two but- 
 tonhole stitches, not too tight, are worked over the 
 last threads of the spider. The needle is then 
 thrust through the spider from beneath the work 
 at the next angle, between the left hand and 
 back threads, and two more buttonhole stitches are 
 worked. This is repeated in the third and fourth 
 angles. The needle is then thrust through the 
 spider from beneath near the long thread, and the 
 rosette is completed. The knot just between this 
 and the next point of intersection is worked, and 
 then the knot that ties the next crossing threads 
 is made and the next rosette begun. This is con- 
 tinued until a rosette adorns each intersection 
 throughout the space. A variation of this stitch 
 may be obtained by surrounding the centre with 
 a spider, but omitting the outer knots. 
 
 Point d'Angleterre. 
 
 This ground network 
 spaces. The thread is 
 
 Fig. 82. Point d'Angleterke. 
 
 ing the working thread 
 
 is excellent for large 
 fastened at the upper 
 left corner, and 
 carried along the 
 upper braid the 
 required distances 
 for one check or 
 square of the net- 
 work. It is then 
 carried across the 
 space to the oppo- 
 site side and en- 
 tered into the 
 braid, always keep- 
 perfectly parallel to 
 
 30 
 
the edge of the left braid. The working thread 
 is then overcast along the edge of the front braid, 
 a distance equal to the distance between the first 
 thread and the left braid. It is then carried to 
 the upper or back braid and attached, forming 
 another parallel line. These threads are contin- 
 ued across the space, all equally distant, and all 
 parallel. Similar parallel threads are then laid 
 across the space from right to left, and form a 
 network of little perfect squares. The thread is 
 next carried in diagonal lines from the end of 
 each alternate parallel thread crossing the squares 
 from right to left, and from left to right, and 
 completing the network. 
 
 The thread is fastened in the upper left corner 
 and carried along the left braid to the first hori- 
 zontal parallel threads. This is overcast, and 
 when the first vertical parallel thread is reached, 
 the needle is passed back of both threads, thus 
 securing the back one in the twist. At the first 
 meeting of the four lines a half wheel is woven in 
 an over and under darning stitch. The thread is 
 then overcast in the same way to the next meeting 
 of four threads, and a second half spider or wheel 
 is worked. This is continued across this and each 
 succeeding row until the space is filled. 
 
 Point d'Angleterre Rosette Stitch. 
 
 The thread is fastened at the upper left corner 
 and overcast along the edge of the upper braid the 
 
 required distance. 
 It is then carried 
 across the space 
 to the lower or 
 front edge of the 
 braid and entered 
 into it, making 
 the thread so 
 stretched across 
 the space parallel 
 with the left 
 braid. The work- 
 ing thread is then 
 overcast along the 
 edge of the front braid a distance equal to that 
 between the left braid and the first placed thread. 
 A second thread parallel to the first is then laid 
 across the space, and is followed by other equally 
 distant parallel threads until the right side of the 
 space is reached. Similar parallel threads are then 
 carried across the braid from right to left, over 
 
 II J] 
 
 1 11 11 II II II II II II 
 
 
 
 Rll 
 
 Nil 
 
 
 ^n. _ : _ 
 
 
 
 j_.ll. - j. — 
 
 
 
 
 Fig. 83. Point d'Angleterre. 
 
 and under, and at right angles to the first series. 
 The thread is then fastened to the left braid at the 
 middle of the second square from the upper left 
 corner. It is carried across the space diagonally 
 to the upper right corner of the second upper 
 square from the upper left corner, and crosses 
 at the meeting of the horizontal and vertical lines. 
 It is then carried one square to the right and again 
 brought across the space in a line parallel with the 
 first diagonal line, These parallel diagonal lines 
 are continued across the entire space. The thread 
 is then fastened to the right braid at the lower 
 corner of the second square from the back right 
 corner and carried to the upper left corner of that 
 small square, where it makes the seventh ray di- 
 verging from that point. These threads are not 
 tied together, but the needle is passed over and 
 under the seven rays in several circles to form a 
 wheel. Then the needle is passed from under that 
 side of the wheel having the seventh ray and 
 through the last circle of the thread of the wheel 
 at the opposite side. This supplies the eighth ray / 
 by the fastening of the thread into the braid at 
 the upper left corner of the little square thus 
 entered. The thread is overcast along the braid 
 to the upper right corner of the square to the left, 
 crossed diagonally to its lower right corner, and 
 a second wheel made. This diagonal line is con- 
 tinued across to the right side of the space and 
 another wheel made at the next intersection of 
 threads. The making of these diagonal lines and 
 the wheels at the intersections is continued until 
 the network is filled. 
 
 Hour-glasses. 
 
 Figure 84 shows still another arrangement of 
 darning over the network described in No. 82. In 
 
 this pattern two 
 fans form little 
 vertical h o u r- 
 glasses. The 
 thread is fastened 
 to the upper left 
 corner, carried 
 along the left 
 braid, and over- 
 cast along the 
 first horizontal 
 parallel line to 
 the first meeting 
 of the parallel and diagonal lines of the network. 
 
 I" 
 
 l.v .*rt»»'»*«>M ■■•• 
 Fig. 84. Hour-glasses. 
 
If preferred, these connecting threads may 
 be fastened at their point of meeting by a single but- 
 tonhole stitch. The three upper threads are then 
 covered with a woven fan and the thread carried 
 back through the weaving to the centre. The lower 
 three threads are then covered with a second woven 
 fan and the thread again carried to the centre. 
 The overcasting of the horizontal parallel thread 
 is then continued till the location for the next pair 
 of fans is reached. This is continued until all the 
 double fans are worked. 
 
 Net with Rosette Stitch. 
 
 For thisexceedingly beautiful net work the Pe- 
 nelope canvas, used for tapestry work, is imitated. 
 
 The thread is 
 fastened at the 
 upper right 
 •corner of the 
 space and over- 
 cast along the 
 
 = = U»rl ILssi ^irkxU \ = 
 
 Fig. 85. Net with Rosette Stitch. 
 
 edge of the 
 right braid a 
 distance equal 
 to one side of 
 the required 
 larger square of 
 the network. It is then carried to the left braid 
 in a line parallel to the upper braid, attached to 
 the braid, and overcast one stitch along its edge. 
 It is again carried to the right side in a line 
 parallel to the former one, and then overcast along 
 the braid the length of the larger square. A 
 second pair of parallel threads is passed across 
 the space, and this is continued until the entire 
 space is covered at regular intervals with these 
 pairs of parallel threads. 
 
 The thread is then overcast along the front 
 edge of the braid a distance equal to one side of 
 the larger squares and woven under the lower and 
 over the upper thread of each pair of horizontal 
 lines. It is then overcast one stitch along the 
 edge of the braid and returned to the lower edge 
 by passing under the upj^er and over the lower 
 threads. This alternates the weaving. 
 
 Upon this pretty network the rings are made. 
 The thread is woven several times around the 
 small squares and closely buttonholed. The 
 thicker the foundation of circling threads and 
 the more raised the buttonholing upon it, the more 
 effective will be the result. At the completion of 
 
 Fig. 86. Gkeek Crosses. 
 
 each buttonholed ring the thread is securely fas- 
 tened and then cut. This makes each little ring 
 independent of the others. 
 
 Greek Crosses. 
 
 The network for this filling stitch of little Greek 
 crosses is the same as for the half spiders or wheels. 
 When the net- 
 work is com- 
 pleted, the thread 
 is fastened at the 
 upper left corner 
 and overcast to 
 the first horizon- 
 tal parallel line. 
 This thread is 
 overcast to the 
 first meeting of 
 four threads, se- 
 curing the verti- 
 cal thread in the overcasting. From the centre 
 of this group of four threads, or eight radii, the 
 thread is passed over and under the middle and 
 left upper threads, forming a little fan. The needle 
 is then passed through this fan to the centre, and 
 a second fan woven over the middle and lower left 
 threads. The third fan covers the middle and 
 right front threads, and the fourth covers the re- 
 maining two threads. From the outer end of this 
 last fan the thread is overcast to the next group 
 of threads to be woven. A Greek cross of fans is 
 thus made at every intersection of the vertical and 
 diagonal lines of the network. 
 
 Point de Reprise. 
 
 The network for Point de Reprise may be pre- 
 pared in either of two ways. In the first way 
 
 horizontal par a 1 1 e 1 
 lines are carried 
 across the space at 
 even distances apart. 
 The thread is then 
 attached to the left 
 braid at the left end 
 of the upper line, and 
 is then entered into 
 the upper braid at 
 one - half that dis- 
 tance from the upper 
 left corner. It is 
 then passed under the upper parallel line and 
 again entered into the upper braid at a distance 
 
 w 
 
 - ' - t^=F4i=^W=^ks^ : - 
 
 ni|§;i§j§i;ijjih 
 
 Fig. 87. Point de Reprise. 
 
 32 
 
equal to the distance between the upper thread 
 and the upper braid. This is continued across the 
 space and makes equilateral enclosures. At the 
 completion of the first row of enclosed triangles 
 the thread is at the right end of the upper line. 
 It is then passed under the second line and back to 
 the first, passing under both the first thread and 
 the thread looped around it at that point. It is 
 again passed under the second thread and back to 
 the first, forming the equilateral triangles of the 
 second row. This is continued row by row until 
 the entire space is laid off in a canvas-like network. 
 The second method of preparing this network is 
 simpler. The parallel horizontal lines are laid as 
 before. A series of diagonal parallel lines the same 
 distance apart as are the horizontal lines are then 
 woven over and under the first lines, across the 
 space from the upper and right sides to the left 
 and lower sides, crossing the horizontal lines at an 
 angle of sixty degrees. A second series of diago- 
 nal lines is then woven in the same way and at 
 the same angle from the upper and left sides to the 
 
 right and lower sides. This completes the network 
 of equilateral triangles. 
 
 These triangles are then covered with cones of 
 darning. The thread is attached to the point or 
 apex of the triangle to be covered, and the thread 
 is passed over and under the foundation threads 
 forming the sides of the triangle until the space 
 is filled. It is then passed under the threads at 
 the corner (which form the apex of another tri- 
 angle) and carried down the side of the adjoining 
 triangle to its apex. The darning of this triangle 
 is accomplished and the work continued until the 
 remaining triangles are covered. 
 
 Another method of covering the triangles con- 
 sists of the use of buttonhole stitches. The thread 
 is attached to the apex of the triangle. Two close 
 buttonhole stitches are worked over the right 
 foundation thread of the triangle. Then two are 
 worked over the left side. In this way the work- 
 ing thread passes from one side to the other of 
 the triangle after every second buttonhole stitch 
 until the triangle is filled. 
 
 Combination and Miscellaneous Stitches. 
 
 Combination Stitches. 
 
 IGURE 88 illustrates several stitches 
 applied to different shaped spaces. In 
 the leaf-shaped space marked A the 
 stitch is worked as folows: 
 Fasten the thread at the upper right corner 
 of the braid. Make a loop across the space and 
 fasten the thread to the left side. Overcast one 
 stitch along the edge of the braid and work seven 
 buttonhole stitches into the loop. Attach the 
 thread to the braid again and overcast two stitches 
 along the edge. The third and fourth rows are 
 Brussels net stitches. In the third row the stitch 
 is taken in the fourth stitch of the group of seven. 
 The fifth row is like the second. 
 
 For Fig. 88 B : Fasten the thread to the braid at 
 the upper left corner. Carry the thread across 
 to right side of the space, leaving the thread loose 
 so as to form a loop. Overcast one stitch along 
 the edge of the braid and stretch the thread back 
 from right to left, keeping it perfectly straight. 
 Overcast two stitches down on the braid, and 
 work four buttonhole stitches into the loop and 
 over the straight thread. The fourth sow is an 
 open network where the buttonhole stitches are 
 
 33 
 
 taken between each group of the 
 The fifth row is Brussels net 
 sixth row is like the third. 
 
 four close 
 stitches, 
 
 stitches. 
 and the 
 
 Bullion Stitch Used for Background. 
 
Point de Valenciennes. 
 
 Point de Valenciennes is another form of dia- 
 mond stitch (see Fig. 88 C ). The thread is fastened 
 at the upper left corner of the space and carried 
 down the braid at the left side of the space, a dis- 
 tance slightly more than one buttonhole stitch. 
 Near, but not close to, the corner a row of eight 
 close buttonhole stitches is worked into the upper 
 braid. A space equal to three buttonhole stitches 
 is omitted and a second row of eight stitches is 
 worked. This is continued across the space. 
 
 The thread is again carried down the edge of 
 the braid at the right, and a buttonhole stitch is 
 placed in the loop between the second and third 
 stitches from the right of the first row. This is 
 followed by a single close buttonhole stitch in 
 each of the next four loops of the group of eight 
 stitches. The result is five close buttonhole stitches 
 worked in the middle loops of the row above, and 
 leaves the two end stitches at either side to ex- 
 tend beyond the five below. Into the loop be- 
 tween the groups of eight two close buttonhole 
 stitches are worked. Five more stitches are placed 
 below the next group of eight, and are followed by 
 the two stitches on the long loop between the groups. 
 This is continued across the 
 space. The third row consists of 
 two buttonhole stitches placed 
 in the two middle loops of each 
 group of five stitches of the 
 row above, and five stitches 
 placed below the groups of two 
 stitches. These groups of five 
 are formed by placing two close 
 buttonhole stitches close to the 
 first stitch of the group of two 
 above. One stitch is placed 
 on the loop between them, and 
 two close to the second of the 
 two stitches. The fourth row 
 consists of groups of eight 
 stitches placed below the groups 
 of five of the row above. 
 The fifth row is like the sec- 
 ond, and the sixth is like the 
 third. This arrangement of 
 stitches forms broad, flattened 
 diamonds, and is suitable for 
 filling large spaces. Another 
 variation of this stitch is shown 
 in Fig. 89. 
 
 Combination of Brussels Net. 
 
 The stitches shown in Fig. 88 D may be used for 
 wide or narrow spaces by increasing or decreasing 
 the length of the long loops, or, in filling large 
 spaces, the width may consist of alternate rows 
 of the short and the long loops. 
 
 The thread is fastened in the upper left corner, 
 and one buttonhole stitch is worked into the upper 
 braid one-third of the distance across the space. 
 Two close buttonhole stitches are worked in the 
 middle of the space. This is followed by a second 
 single buttonhole stitch equally distant from the 
 first, The thread is then carried to the braid and 
 fastened. The second row is worked from right 
 to left, and consists of six or more close button- 
 hole stitches worked on the long loop, completely 
 filling it. Two close buttonhole stitches are 
 worked on each of the small loops, and the second 
 long loop is covered with six close buttonhole 
 stitches. The third row is like the first, and the 
 fourth row is like the second. 
 
 The stitch illustrated in Fig. 88 E, like the pre- 
 ceding one, is suitable for broad or narrow spaces, 
 and is used for wide spaces by repeating the stripes* 
 of the pattern. 
 
 COHBlSiATl 
 
 34 
 
The thread is fastened at the upper left corner 
 and carried down the side of the braid one stitch. 
 •A short distance from the corner a single stitch is 
 worked into the upper braid. Space for two 
 stitches is omitted, and a second single stitch is 
 worked. These stitches should occupy one-third 
 the distance across the space. At the end of the 
 second third of the space a single buttonhole stitch 
 is worked, making a long loop extending across 
 the middle of the space. Space for two stitches 
 is then omitted, and a second single buttonhole 
 stitch is worked. The thread is then fastened 
 into the braid at the right and carried down one 
 stitch. A single buttonhole stitch is worked into 
 the short loop between the two buttonhole stitches 
 above. Six or more stitches are then placed upon 
 the long loop, filling it. A single stitch is then 
 worked in the left short loop, and the thread 
 attached to the braid. The third row is like the 
 first, and the fourth is like the second. 
 
 The stitch used in Fig. 88 F is the Petit Point 
 de Venise and is described on page 19. 
 
 Fans. 
 
 Woven fans make a very effective filling (see 
 Fig. 88). They may be made singly, in pairs, or in 
 trios. They may be built like hour-glasses or like 
 Greek crosses. They may have few or many 
 foundation threads. They may have graduated 
 points or they may have a flat end. 
 
 To make a trio of fans as illustrated, the thread 
 is fastened at the point of the braid selected for 
 the base of the fans. It is then carried to a point 
 on the opposite side of the space a distance to 
 the left of the 
 centre just half 
 the width of 
 the middle sec- 
 tion or division 
 of the fan. 
 The thread is 
 passed through 
 the braid and 
 overcast back 
 to the base of 
 the design, al- 
 ways over- 
 casting from 
 the worker. To do this the pattern is so held 
 that the base is the farthest point in the space 
 from the worker. This way of overcasting ensures 
 
 Combination of Fans with Other 
 Stitches. 
 
 a better twist to the threads. When the first thread 
 is brought back to the base it is entered into the braid 
 at the same point from whence it started. It is again 
 carried across the space and entered into the braid 
 at a point j ust as far from the centre to the right 
 as the first one was to the left. This is overcast 
 to the base. The third thread is entered into the 
 braid a sufficient distance to the left of the left 
 thread already in place and overcast to the base. 
 The opposite right thread is then placed in the 
 same way. The remaining distance at the left of 
 the threads already in place is now filled with four 
 similar threads, all overcast, equally distant and 
 meeting at the base. The right side of the space 
 is filled in the same way. The weaving of the 
 fans should be begun with a long thread and at 
 the base. The middle fan may be woven first. The 
 thread is carried over and under the four threads 
 alternately in a weaving or darning stitch and must 
 be drawn just tight enough to keep the twisted 
 threads in place, to preserve a sharp point at the 
 base and an even edge at the sides of the fan. 
 When it is desired to begin the pointing, the two 
 outer threads are dropped and the weaving is con- 
 tinued over and under the two middle threads. 
 When the weaving is completed the needle is 
 passed from the point to the base of the fan 
 through its centre, or between the threads of the 
 weaving, so as to be invisible. The thread is now 
 in place to begin the weaving of the second fan. 
 This and the third one are then woven. 
 
 Woven Rays. 
 
 Woven rays form another showy effect (see 
 Fig. 88). The base is naturally the converging part 
 of the space, and the outer edge of the group of 
 rays is the side of the larger curve. Each ray has 
 its own base and these bases are located close 
 together, so that each, though a part of the whole 
 central effect, is complete in itself. 
 
 The desired positions of the outer ends of the 
 rays are selected at equal distances from each other, 
 and three threads for each ray, diverging from its 
 own base, are put in position and overcast. These 
 are covered with the over and under darning or 
 weaving stitch throughout their entire length. 
 All weaving must begin at the narrowest point in 
 the design to be woven. The thread may be at- 
 tached to the braid at the completion of each ray 
 or may be carried back through the interior of the 
 first ray and overcast to the base of the next. 
 
 35 
 
Diamond Stitch. 
 
 When a rich, showy effect is desired, there is no 
 stitch more appropriate for large spaces than the 
 diamond stitch. The beauty of this stitch lies in 
 its regularity, and in keeping the diamonds suffi- 
 ciently close together and in straight rows. The 
 thread is fastened in the upper left corner and 
 brought down the side of the braid the distance of 
 one buttonhole stitch. 
 At a short distance from 
 the corner, equal to the 
 space necessary for two 
 stitches, a group of four 
 buttonhole stitches is 
 worked. These stitches 
 must be just far enough 
 apart to admit, on the 
 second row, one similar 
 stitch on each of the 
 loops between them. 
 These four stitches being 91 1 
 completed, a space equal 
 to three stitches is 
 omitted, and one button- 
 hole stitch worked. An- 
 other space of equal 92 1 
 length is followed by a 
 second group of four 
 stitches. These groups 
 
 of four Stitches and Fig. 89, Diamond. Figs. 90 and 91, 
 , , . . , Point de Sorkento. Fig. 92, 
 
 single stitches are con- bullion insertion, fig. 93, 
 
 tinued across the Space Knotted Russian Stitch. 
 
 to be filled, great care 
 
 being taken to keep the spaces between them of 
 
 equal length. The first row being completed, the 
 
 thread is carried down the edge of the braid one 
 
 stitch. 
 
 In the second row begins the alternate increas- 
 ing and decreasing of the diamonds started by the 
 first row. One buttonhole stitch is placed on the 
 long loop, close to the right side of the single stitch 
 of the first row. This is followed by a second 
 single stitch placed close to the left side of this 
 same single stitch of the first row. Into each of 
 the three loops between the four stitches of the 
 next group of the first row, a single buttonhole 
 stitch is worked. In working the first of these 
 three stitches care must be taken to make the loop 
 between this and the group of two stitches already 
 made of the same length as the loops between the 
 groups of the first row. All the long loops through- 
 
 out the work must be of the same length. At each 
 side of the next single stitch of the first row a 
 single buttonhole stitch is worked, both stitches 
 being kept close together. Into the loops between 
 the following group of four stitches three button- 
 hole stitches are worked. This is continued to 
 the end of the row. The third row also consists 
 of groups of two and three stitches. Into the loops 
 between the stitches of the groups of three in the 
 second row two buttonhole stitches are worked, 
 and this is followed by three stitches below the 
 following group of two. The first stitch is placed 
 on the long loop close to the left of the two stitches ; 
 the second stitch is placed between them, and the 
 third on the long loop close to the right of the two 
 stitches. Two stitches placed one in each of the 
 two loops of the next group are followed by three 
 stitches below the next group of two. This is con- 
 tinued to the end of the row. 
 
 The fourth row, like the first, consists of groups 
 of four and single stitches. Below the group of 
 three stitches, at the left of the space, four stitches 
 are worked, care as usual being taken to keep the 
 first and last of this group, which are worked on 
 the long loops, close to the other two. This group 
 of four stitches is followed by a single stitch be- 
 tween the two stitches of the row above, and com- 
 pletes the half diamond begun at the first row. 
 The next group of four stitches follows, and so the 
 work is continued to the end of the row. 
 
 The fifth row begins the new diamonds below 
 the half diamonds begun at the first row, and di- 
 minishes the diamonds begun by the single stitch 
 of the first row. Two stitches are placed below 
 the single stitch, and are followed by a group of 
 three stitches below the group of four of the pre- 
 ceding row. This is continued to the end of the 
 row, and is followed by the sixth row, which is 
 composed of groups of three stitches below the 
 groups of two stitches of the preceding row, and 
 groups of two stitches below the groups of three. 
 The seventh row is like the first, and completes 
 the alternate whole diamonds begun by the first 
 row. 
 Point de Sorrento. 
 
 Point de Sorrento is very similar in appearance 
 to the double net stitch. The method of placing 
 the stitches makes it exceedingly firm, and, where 
 an open network is desired, this stitch is very 
 practical and beautiful. The thread is fastened 
 at the upper left corner of the space, and at equal 
 
distances two buttonhole stitches are worked close 
 together. The first is a plain buttonhole stitch 
 worked into the edge of the braid ; the second 
 stitch is placed close to the first, and is passed 
 through it. To do this, the needle is thrust both 
 through the braid and betweeu the two threads 
 that form the sides of the loop of the first stitch, 
 and is then drawn up close in a buttonhole stitch. 
 At the proper distance from this pair of stitches 
 a second buttonhole stitch is worked in the edge 
 of the braid. Into the loop of this stitch a second 
 ibuttonhole stitch is made as before, and so the 
 work is continued to the end of the row. The 
 rows are all alike, each pair of buttonhole stitches 
 being placed on the loop between the two pairs of 
 stitches above, and each pair of stitches is inter- 
 locked. 
 
 Point de Sorrento. 
 
 This stitch should not be worked too closely. 
 The more open it is, the more showy the effect. 
 In making buttonhole stitches from right to left, 
 the thread must be thrown or carried around into 
 position for each stitch, while, when working from 
 left to right, the thread naturally falls into posi- 
 tion, and the extra movement of placing it is 
 obviated. Hence, it is always well when begin- 
 ning a stitch, to so regulate your work that the 
 rows having most buttonhole stitches may be 
 worked from left to right. Because of this it is 
 aest to fasten the thread for this arrangement of 
 Point de Sorrento at the upper right corner of the 
 space. At equal distances, and somewhat far 
 ipart, groups of two buttonhole stitches, placed 
 rather close together, are worked across the space. 
 The thread is then carried down the edge of the 
 Draid the length of a buttonhole stitch, and the 
 second row of stitches begun. On the loop be- 
 ;ween each pair of loose buttonhole stitches of the 
 irst row a group of three close buttonhol e stitches 
 s worked. The third row is like the first, that is, 
 ;wo rather loose buttonhole stitches are worked on 
 sach of the long loops between the groups of 
 ;hree stitches of the second row. The fourth row 
 8 like the second. 
 
 3ollion Insertion. 
 
 When a heavy, showy insertion is desired, Fig. 
 )2 is excellent. The thread is fastened at the 
 lpper right corner and carried down the edge of 
 he braid a distance equal to the length of a Span- 
 sh net stitch. Into the upper braid, at the middle 
 
 of the space, a single Spanish net stitch is worked, 
 and the thread attached to the edge of the braid 
 at the left side, a distance from the corner equal 
 to the distance the thread at the right side is from 
 the right corner. The thread is then carried one 
 stitch down the edge of the braid, and on the 
 left long loop three close buttonhole stitches are 
 worked. Through the loop between the second 
 and third stitch, the needle is thrust for about half 
 its length, and the thread is wound around its 
 point ten or twelve times. The thumb is then 
 placed upon the coil of threads, the needle drawn 
 through, and the thread pulled up so closely that 
 the coil assumes a circular shape. 
 
 This is followed by three more buttonhole 
 stitches on the long loop. The long loop at the 
 right of the Spanish net stitch is covered exactly 
 as was the left loop. The three close buttonhole 
 stitches are followed by the picot in bullion stitch 
 and completed by three more close buttonhole 
 stitches. The third row, like the first, consists of 
 a single Spanish net stitch placed on the loop in 
 the middle of the second row. The fourth row 
 is like the second. When the space to be filled 
 is rather wide, a greater number of buttonhole 
 stitches will be necessary on either side of the. 
 bullion stitch. 
 
 Knotted Russian Stitch. 
 
 Knotted Russian stitch is a very neat, easily 
 made, and effective insertion. The space is first 
 filled with plain or twisted Riissian stitches made 
 at even distances apart, and somewhat close- 
 together. When the space is curved, care must 
 be taken to regularly place the stitches on the 
 outer curve at an equally greater distance apart.. 
 This ensures regularity in the result. When the 
 space is entirely filled, the thread is passed to 
 the middle of one end of the space, and a close 
 buttonhole knot is tied tightly on each single 
 tli read of the insertion as it passes the middle 
 of the space. 
 
 The stitch is especially useful for filling leaf or 
 other long narrow space. 
 
 Point Lace proper was not produced to any ex- 
 tent before 1620, whatever may be said to the con- 
 trary. Reticella work of the seventeenth century 
 is the nearest approach to it, but still retains 
 traces of plaiting and Genoa stitch, which were 
 never employed in real point. Point proper became 
 the dress lace par excellence under Louis XIV. 
 
 37 
 
Combination Stitches. 
 
 Another pretty network is made by a combina- 
 tion of Brussels net and Spanish net stitches, as 
 shown in Fig. 94. The thread is fastened at the 
 upper right corner of the space to be filled, and a 
 row of Brussels net stitches worked at regular in- 
 tervals. The thread is then fastened to the edge 
 of the braid at the left of the space, and overcast 
 along its edge a distance equal to the length of 
 the Spanish net stitches. Into the first loop of 
 the Brussels net stitches of the first row a single 
 Brussels net stitch is worked. Into the second 
 loop three Spanish net stitches are placed. The 
 third loop holds one Brussels net stitch, and into 
 the fourth are worked three Spanish net stitches. 
 This is continued to the end of the row. The 
 third row is like the first — a row of open Brussels 
 net stitches. The first stitch is placed at the right 
 of the three Spanish net stitches of the row above, 
 and the second is placed in the loop at their left. 
 In this way the trio of Spanish net stitches is 
 considered as one stitch, and the loop between the 
 first and second Brussels net stitch encloses them 
 all. The next Brussels net stitch is placed in the 
 next loop of the row above, and the work so con- 
 tinued to the end of the row. The fourth row is 
 composed like the second, of single Brussels net 
 and trios of Spanish net alternating. The Spanish 
 net stitches are placed in the loops below or under 
 the single Brussels net stitches of the second row. 
 This results in the Spanish net stitches occurring 
 in diagonal lines across the network, and is more 
 graceful and artistic than if placed in lines under 
 each other. 
 
 One of the prettiest of networks is composed of 
 alternating rows of Spanish net and Brussels net 
 stitches, as shown in Fig. 95. The thread is fas- 
 tened at the upper left corner, and a row of single 
 Spanish net stitches is worked at regular intervals 
 far enough apart to admit on the loop between 
 them five or six close Brussels net stitches. When 
 the opposite edge of the space is reached, the thread 
 is attached to the braid, and overcast along its edge 
 the required distance. A group of five or six close 
 Brussels net (or buttonhole) stitches is worked over 
 each loop between the Spanish net stitches. These 
 Brussels net stitches must be evenly and closely 
 worked and there should be enough of them to fill 
 closely, but not crowd, the loop upon which they 
 are worked. Each loop of the first row of stitches 
 is filled in this way with the Brussels net stitches. 
 
 The thread, upon reaching the end of the row, is 
 again attached to the braid and overcast along its 
 edge the length of the Spanish net stitch. The 
 third row consists of the single Spanish net stitches 
 placed on the little loop between the groups of 
 Brussels net stitches and just under the stitches 
 of the first row. The fourth row is like the second. 
 When completed the network shows a pattern of 
 open squares, with the heavy lines of Brussels net 
 stitches reaching in parallel lines from right to 
 left across the space, and the lighter Spanish net 
 stitches forming parallel lines at right angles to 
 the Brussels net stitches. 
 
 A similar but less' geometrical network is made 
 wholly of Brussels net stitches (see Fig. 96). 
 
 The thread is fas- 
 tened at the upper 
 left corner and a row 
 of open Brussels net 
 stitches is worked at 
 regular intervals 
 across the space. 
 The thread is then 
 overcast along the 
 edge of the braid as 
 usual, and a second 
 row of open Brussels 
 net is worked into 
 the loops of the first 
 row, one stitch being 
 placed in each loop. 
 The third row is the 
 close row. Into each 
 loop of the second 
 row is worked five or 
 six close Brussels 
 net, or buttonhole, 
 stitches. There 
 should always be 
 the same number of 
 these stitches in each 
 loop, and there should be enough of them worked 
 closely together to nearly fill the loop. A row of 
 open Brussels net stitches is next worked, one 
 stitch being placed on each loop between the groups 
 of close buttonhole stitches of the third row. The 
 next, or fifth row, is like the second, and the sixth 
 row is like the third. 
 
 An exceedingly delicate and attractive stitch is 
 shown in Fig. 97. The thread is attached to the 
 upper right corner of the space, and three rows of 
 
 Combination Stitches. 
 
 38 
 
open double net stitch are worked. To accomplish 
 this, two buttonhole stitches close together, and 
 drawn rather tight, are worked at regular intervals 
 into the braid across the space. The second row 
 consists of two close buttonhole stitches worked 
 into each loop of the first row. The third row is 
 like the second. At the completion of the third 
 row the thread is overcast along the edge of the 
 braid for a distance about equal to that necessary 
 for a Spanish net stitch. A single buttonhole 
 stitch is worked into the first loop of the preced- 
 ing row, and left somewhat loose. Point de Venise 
 or side stitches are now used. A close buttonhole 
 stitch is worked over the single net stitch close to 
 the loop to which it is attached. This is drawn 
 closely and followed by three or four more side 
 stitches set closely together. There must be 
 enough of them to so fill the long loop that there 
 is only a slight downward curve to that part left 
 uncovered, and into which the next row must be 
 worked. When the first group of side, or Point de 
 Venise, stitches is completed, another single long 
 Brussels net stitch is worked into the next loop, and 
 this in turn is filled with the same number of side 
 stitches as were used to cover the first long stitch. 
 This is continued to the end of the row, and is 
 followed by three rows of double net stitch, after 
 which the row of long Point de Venise stitches is 
 repeated. This is continued in the same order of 
 three rows of double net and one of Point de 
 Venise, until the space is filled. 
 
 Combination Stitch. 
 
 In Fig. 98 is shown a pretty combination of 
 Brussels net, Spanish net, and Venetian stitches. 
 The thread is fastened at the upper left corner, 
 and two rows of Brussels net stitches are worked. 
 The thread is then overcast one stitch lower, along 
 the edge of the braid, at the side of the space, and 
 then carried in a straight line across the width of 
 the space and through the braid at the right side, 
 just below the second row of Brussels net stitches. 
 Two close buttonhole stitches are worked over each 
 loop, and in every instance over the straight thread 
 also. This makes the Venetian stitch. The thread 
 is again carried across the space, and a second row 
 of Venetian stitch worked. In this row one button- 
 hole stitch is worked between each of the stitches of 
 the row above. The working thread is then overcast 
 along the edge of the braid the required distance, 
 and a Spanish net stitch is worked between every 
 
 Fig. 98. Comiunation Stitch. 
 
 Brussels Net, Spanish Net, and Venetian 
 
 Stitch. 
 
 other stitch of the row above. The working thread 
 is then carried twice across the space, and should lie 
 in close parallel lines just at the edge of the loops 
 
 of the row of 
 Spanish net 
 stitches. A row 
 of Venetian 
 stitch is then 
 worked over 
 these two- 
 threads, and the 
 the loops of the 
 Spanish net 
 stitches by plac- 
 ing two Brussels 
 net stitches on 
 each loop be- 
 tween the Span- 
 ish net stitches. If preferred, only one straight 
 thread may be carried across the space for this row 
 of Venetian stitch. A second row of Spanish net 
 stitches is then worked, one between every two 
 Venetian stitches of the row above. This places 
 the Spanish net stitches exactly under the Spanish 
 net stitches already worked in the row above. Two 
 rows of Venetian stitch are next made and the 
 space is completed by the working of two rows of 
 Brussels net. 
 
 A very pretty effect is produced by alternating 
 two or three rows of Venetian stitch with one of 
 Spanish net throughout the space. In this case 
 the Brussels net stitches at the beginning of the 
 network are omitted, and the network should begin 
 with one row of Spanish net stitches and should 
 also end with a row of the same. 
 
 Combination Stitch. 
 
 Another pretty stitch is shown in Pig. 99. The 
 thread is fastened at the upper right corner and a 
 row of open Brussels net stitches is worked across 
 the space. The thread is overcast along the edge 
 of the left braid a distance equal to the Brussels 
 net stitches. A single net stitch is worked in the 
 first loop of the row above. This is repeated at 
 the second loop. Into this second stitch a group 
 of four close buttonhole stitches is worked. The 
 thread is passed through the middle of the net- 
 stitch and drawn up in a rather close buttonhole 
 stitch. Three other similar stitches are worked 
 close together in the same opening. A single 
 Brussels net stitch is placed in the next loop of 
 
 39 
 
the row above, and 
 this single Brus- 
 sells net stitch is 
 followed by an- 
 other cluster of 
 four stitches with- 
 in the single Brus- 
 sels net stitch 
 placed upon the 
 next loop. This 
 is repeated to the 
 end of the row. 
 The third row i-> 
 like the first and the 
 
 Combination Stitch. 
 
 Fig. 90. Combination Stitch. 
 
 fourth is like the second. 
 
 This exceedingly beautiful stitch was taken 
 from a piece of lace made in Ireland. The thread 
 is fastened at the upper left corner. It is then 
 held by the thumb, or secured by a pin, in a long 
 loop, and at a distance to the right of the corner 
 •equal to one side or half of this long loop five 
 close buttonhole stitches are worked. A second 
 long loop is secured, and five more buttonhole 
 stitches worked. The third long loop follows. 
 These loops must be of exactly the same length. 
 The thread is entered into the braid at the left, 
 and overcast along its edge a distance equal to 
 two buttonhole stitches. Into the first long loop 
 two close buttonhole stitches are worked. These 
 are held in place by the thumb, and two more 
 stitches are placed on the middle loops of the five 
 
 stitches of the row 
 above. Two more 
 stitches are then 
 placed on the next 
 long loop, and are 
 followed by two 
 on the middle loops 
 of the next group 
 of five stitches. 
 This is continued 
 to the end of the 
 row, 
 
 The thread is again attached to the braid, and 
 two close stitches are worked at the left of the 
 first group of two stitches of the second row. One 
 stitch is placed upon the loop between the group 
 of two stitches, and close to them at the right two 
 more close stitches are worked. This makes a row 
 of five close buttonhole stitches under the two of 
 
 Fig. mo. Combination Stitch. 
 
 Fig. 101. Combination Stitch. 
 
 the row above. The thread is not carried up to 
 the next group of two stitches, but a long loop is 
 secured, as in the first row, and five close button- 
 hole stitches are worked below the group of two 
 stitches, swinging on the long loop of the row 
 above. Another long loop is secured, and five 
 more close stitches worked. This is continued 
 across the space. The fourth row is like the sec- 
 ond, and the fifth is like the third. 
 
 Combination Stitch. 
 
 Fig. 101 is a very showy stitch, suitable for heavy, 
 sumptuous effects. The thread is fastened at the 
 
 upper right cor- 
 ner, and a row 
 of large loops is 
 made by work- 
 ing single Brus- 
 sels net stitches 
 rather far apart. 
 and making the 
 loops between 
 somewhat long. 
 The thread is at- 
 tached to the left 
 braid and car- 
 ried down one stitch. A row of ten close button- 
 hole stitches is then worked upon the first loop, 
 filling it smoothly but not tightly. The left 
 thumb is then placed firmly upon the second loop 
 to prevent its being pulled out of shape, and to 
 bring the stitches close up to the edge of the braid 
 in order to preserve the scalloped effect. The first 
 buttonhole stitch is then placed upon the second 
 loop and drawn up very tightly to the braid. The 
 other nine stitches are then worked, and the thumb 
 placed upon the third loop, ready to assist in the 
 shaping of the next curve. This is continued to 
 the end of the row. The third row is like the 
 first, except that the buttonhole stitches are placed 
 between the fifth and sixth stitches of each group 
 of the row above. The fourth row is like the 
 second. 
 
 Connected Needle-made Picots. 
 
 Connected needle-made picots make a pretty 
 finish for the edge of a piece of lace, and are made 
 after the lace is completed. The thread is at- 
 tached to the edge of the braid with a buttonhole 
 stitch. Over this another buttonhole stitch, called 
 a seed or side stitch, is worked. This is the little 
 
 40 
 
Fig. 102. Coxxected Picots. 
 
 Point de Yenise stitch already given. The thread 
 is then carried over and through the loop, and is 
 
 tied with a 
 second b u t- 
 tonhole knot 
 or side stitch. 
 This is re- 
 peated at reg- 
 ular intervals, leaving the loops between of uniform 
 size, and long enough to fall in graceful curves. 
 
 Isolated Needle-made Picots, 
 
 Another method of finishing the edge of lace is 
 to make isolated picots. These have open pendent 
 loops, and resemble to some extent the machine- 
 made edges. The thread is attached to the braid 
 with a buttonhole stitch. A pin is then thrust 
 through the pattern, upon which the lace is 
 still basted, at a point indicating the required 
 
 length of the picot. The thread is then passed 
 around this pin from right to left, and crossed 
 again to the right, forming an oval loop. It is 
 then passed across the loop again, and the needle 
 thrust behind the buttonhole stitch and the end 
 of the loop over the thread that again crosses the 
 picot, and drawn up in a tight buttonhole knot. 
 At the required distance from the first picot, a 
 second buttonhole stitch is made into the edge of 
 the braid, and the thread between this and the fin- 
 ished picot is drawn up to form a straight line 
 parallel with the braid. The pin is again placed 
 
 in position, and 
 the second picot 
 is made and 
 tied with a but- 
 tonhole knot, 
 
 Fig. 103. Isolated Picots. &S before* 
 
 These picots are repeated at regular intervals 
 along the edge of the braid. 
 
 Net or Applique Lace. 
 
 [ANY beautiful effects may be obtained by 
 combining lace braids and stitches with 
 net. Marie Antoinette is a net or ap- 
 plique lace on a larger scale. The same 
 methods may be employed to make the finest and 
 daintiest of filmy laces. In the former, cords, rings, 
 and various heavy showy braids are used to pro- 
 duce flowers and foliage, bow-knots and scroll 
 effects. In the finer laces the regular point and 
 honiton lace braids are used. 
 
 The net is basted carefully and smoothly on 
 the stamped pattern. Much of the perfection of 
 the finished work depends upon the neatness and 
 exactness of this part of the work. The lines 
 of the pattern will be clearly seen through the 
 net, and over these the braid is basted. 
 
 Where the net underneath is to be cut away 
 the edge of the braid must be fastened to the net 
 with close buttonhole stitches of fine thread. The 
 inner curves must be fastened into position, and, 
 if the net is not to be cut away, these edges must 
 also be buttonholed to the foundation. With care 
 the drawing of the inner curves into position may 
 be done with the buttonholing. When this can be 
 done the overcasting is unnecessary. 
 
 When the net is not to be cut away the braid 
 
 41 
 
 may be attached by close overcasting stitches. 
 A row of braid almost always outlines the edge 
 of the lace. This is also buttonholed firmly to 
 the net and has an edge of purling overcast to its 
 outer edge. Occasionally the braid is omitted and 
 the purling alone is buttonholed to the net. This 
 
 Wftirrmr«iWiiffi?(iBW<w«««ii!7S5 ffi 
 
 Fio. 104. Mrthop of Applying Braid to Net. 
 
makes a lighter but less durable finish for the 
 lace. The various lace stitches are then worked 
 into the design of the braid. In honiton applique 
 the braid medallions are buttonholed into position 
 according to the pattern, which is usually a floral 
 design. The stems of the various leaves and 
 flowers are sometimes worked in tent stitch and 
 sometimes are darned into the meshes of the net. 
 The centres of flowers are usually finished with 
 needle-made buttonholed rings. 
 
 Instead of the lace stitches used in the point 
 applique, a very pretty effect is obtained by filling 
 in the spaces with darned net stitches. 
 
 Dots may be sprinkled over the net by weaving 
 
 the thread around and around a selected mesh of 
 the net. Another way is to work bird's-eye stitches, 
 using several threads. These bird's-eye stitches 
 make pretty leaves and sprays when worked in 
 the design of the lace. A third method of dot- 
 ting the net is to work little buttonholed rings at 
 regular intervals, or the tiny rings used in point 
 lace may be added if the net is heavy. 
 
 When the lace is finished it is removed from 
 the pattern, and the net to be removed from under 
 medallions and lace stitches is carefully cut away. 
 The edge is also cut close to the buttonholing that 
 holds the lace edge in position. The lace is then 
 pressed under a damp cloth. 
 
 How to Wash Lace. 
 
 jO wasli lace successfully, plenty of time 
 and great care are necessary. There 
 are instances where hurried work is 
 followed by success, but the chances 
 are against it. A Battenberg doily became soiled 
 in the making, so the maker rubbed white soap on 
 it, thrust it in a basin of hot water, and rubbed it 
 vigorously between her hands, until all trace of soil 
 was gone. She then pulled it out into shape, placed 
 it between two towels, and rolled it up. When 
 nearly dry, she ironed it, still between the towels, 
 and, strange to say, that doily showed no bad 
 results from its rough treatment. 
 
 A still more remarkable instance was that of a 
 fine modern point lace handkerchief, made with 
 thread No. 1000. This handkerchief accidentally 
 went with the family linen to the washerwoman. 
 The adventures it went through at her hands will 
 forever remain a mystery, but when it reached 
 home it was white and clean, ironed and folded, 
 and none the worse for its experiences. 
 
 But these cases are rare, and are also unfor- 
 tunate, as they lead to carelessness in accomplish- 
 ing a work that should receive the most careful 
 treatment. Sometimes all that is necessary to 
 clean a piece of lace is to lay it between two sheets 
 of white or blue paper, first sprinkling it well with 
 powdered magnesia. Then place it between the 
 leaves of a book, and allow it to remain for several 
 days. When the magnesia is shaken out, the lace 
 will be found to be very greatly improved. Lace 
 placed between sheets of blue paper will keep white 
 longer than when placed between white paper, or 
 laid away in a box. 
 
 When actual washing is necessary, take a glass 
 bottle whose body is as nearly cylindrical as possi- 
 ble. Half fill this with sand or water, to prevent 
 the water when boiling from tossing the bottle 
 about too violently in the kettle. Very carefully 
 wind the lace around this bottle, and cover it with 
 a layer of cheesecloth or muslin. A still better 
 way is to baste the lace smoothly and exactly on 
 a piece of cheesecloth, then wind it securely around 
 the bottle, and cover the whole with another layer 
 of the cheesecloth. 
 
 Into a granite saucepan put some cold water, a 
 small piece of soap, and, if the lace is very dirty, 
 a pinch of salt. Into this plunge the lace-wound 
 bottle, and let the water come to a boil. As the 
 water gets dirty, pour it off, and replace with more 
 cold water and soap. Continue this treatment 
 until the boiling water remains perfectly clean. 
 Then remove the bottle, and plunge into a basin of 
 clean, cold water, and rinse thoroughly. Allow 
 the lace to remain on the bottle until it is dry, then 
 remove it and separate from the cheesecloth. 
 
 When real lace has become stained or greasy 
 from wear, place it in a bath of pure olive oil, and 
 allow it to remain for several hours or even a day 
 or two. This gives to the lace the softness of 
 texture it possessed when new. After this is 
 accomplished, wind the lace on the bottle, and 
 proceed with the boiling, as already described. 
 
 When the lace is too large to wind around a 
 bottle, baste it evenly and securely to a piece of 
 cheesecloth, with small stitches in parallel lines 
 across the surface of the lace. Baste another piece 
 of cheesecloth over it, and boil in a series of waters. 
 
 42 
 
After the rinsing, which must be accomplished by 
 pressing and squeezing, but never by wringing, pin 
 the cloth upon which the lace is basted smoothly 
 to a sheet stretched in curtain frames ; or, if this 
 is impossible, to a sheet stretched and pinned over a 
 carpet. Allow the lace to dry, and then remove from 
 the sheet and from the two layers of cheesecloth. 
 
 If you wish the lace starched, dissolve a suffi- 
 cient amount of starch in cold water. Boil half of 
 it, and, when partly cool, stir in the uncooked half 
 and add cold water until the mass is of the consist- 
 ency of cream. Into this dip the lace, and gently 
 squeeze out the extra amount. Lay the lace in a 
 flat mass in the left hand, and spat it thoroughly 
 with the right until the starch is well worked in. 
 Repeat the process if desired, and roll the lace in 
 a towel and leave for some hours. 
 
 To color lace a cream shade add a few drops of 
 black coffee to the starch. To make the lace a 
 greenish hue use a little cold tea. 
 
 Machine laces may be ironed directly upon then- 
 surfaces. First carefully and smoothly pull all the 
 picots into place and see that the lace is exactly in 
 its original shape ; iron until dry. Then pull the 
 lace along its entire length between the fingers 
 from the footing or engrelure to the opposite edge. 
 Pass the iron again over its length. The pulling 
 relieves the lace of the stiff, starched effect, and 
 makes it as pliable as new lace. 
 
 To iron unstarched lace place it right side down 
 upon a pad or ironing-board covered with several 
 thicknesses of white flannel. Over this spread care- 
 fully a damp cloth and press with a hot iron until 
 this cloth is thoroughly dry. This is also the way 
 to press newly made lace, and should be done as 
 soon as the lace is removed from the pattern. A 
 little white sugar added to the water in which 
 this over-cloth is dampened will stiffen the lace, 
 and is in some cases much better than starch. 
 Another excellent method is to dampen a piece of 
 new organdy or other white goods containing starch 
 or dressing. Place this over the lace and iron till 
 dry. This gives a crisp new appearance to the lace 
 without making it at all suggestive of starch. An- 
 other method of washing lace is to soak it about 
 fifteen minutes in a bowl of suds made of white 
 soap and water. Pour this off and replace with a 
 
 clean suds. Place the basin where the sun will 
 shine upon it. Change the lather twice a day and 
 let the rays of the sun restore the lace to its orig- 
 inal whiteness. When it is clean rinse it in several 
 clear waters, pressing but never squeezing, and drop 
 it in a dainty heap on a plate. Leave it here till 
 it is only damp, not wet. Dissolve two lumps of 
 white sugar in a pint of water, and into this drop 
 the lace. Allow it to remain for about five minutes. 
 Squeeze this sweetened water out and spread the 
 lace smoothly upon the soft, flannel-covered ironing- 
 table. Over it place a piece of white muslin and 
 iron with a warm, not too hot, iron until it is dry. 
 Remove the cloth, and, taking the lace in the hands, 
 carefully manipulate with the fingers until the lace 
 has been restored to its original shape. Then with 
 a fine lace needle, which has no point to tear and 
 split the delicate threads, carefully open and shape 
 each picot. 
 
 Irish guipure and real point lace should be 
 pinned out, not ironed. This is quite a task, and 
 should be attempted only when the worker has 
 ample time and is not liable to be interrupted. A 
 large wooden drum or hoop of sufficient width is 
 best, but if this is not to be had, a large circular 
 box or a straight board may be used. Pad the 
 outer surface of this drum on both sides and the 
 ends of the board with several layers of white 
 flannel, and, if preferred, cover this with a piece 
 of white muslin stretched smoothly. 
 
 Lace must, of course, be damp when pinned, 
 and then the pins will not tear the threads of the 
 picots. Only a portion of the length should be 
 removed from the damp cloth within which it is 
 rolled. Should the lace, being pinned, become dry, 
 dampen it with a wet cloth or sponge. First pin 
 the footing or engrelure down to the padded sup- 
 port, using plenty of pins placed close together. 
 Spread the lace across its width smoothly over the 
 support, and pin each picot separately by thrusting 
 the pin through it and into the flannel support as 
 if it were a cushion. The pins must be the exact 
 size of the picots, as their size must keep the 
 picots in their original shape. Leave the lace until 
 it is thoroughly dry and then remove the pins. If 
 the lace has a raised design, stamp it on the wrong 
 side with a lace awl. 
 
 43 
 
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