LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. T^nm^ %It ©apjrigp lo Shelf.B.S... UNITED STATES OF AMEKICA. • SAMUEL SLATEE, The Father of American Cotton Manufacture. Samuel Slater was born at Belper, Derbyshire, Eng- land, June 9, 1768. He was apprenticed at the age of fourteen to Jedidiah Struti, partner of Arkwright, in the business of cotton spinning. In 1789 he arrived in the United States, and entered into a contract with William Almy and Smith Brown, of Providence, R, I., to construct new cotton spinning machinery. December 21, 1790, he started at Pawtucket, in the same State, a mill with three carding machines and seventy-two spindles, which was virtually the beginning of the cotton manufacture in this country. In 1812 he erected cotton mills of his own at Oxford (now Webster), Massachusetts — to which, in 1815-16, he added woolen mills. He also established and maintained schools for the education of the children of his employes. He died at Webster, Mass., April 21, 1835. COTTON GOODS GUIDE — FOR BUYER AND SELLER. t IliliUSTRATED. ) tl 'Sj*. - \k( A POCKET MANUAL V^^^ EMBODYING THE MOST ESSENTI/VL, PRACTICAL AND USE- FUL HINTS, SUGGESTIONS, POINTS, FACTS, FIGURES, ETC., RELATIVE TO THE MANUFACTURE, PUR- CHASE AND SALE OF PLAIN, DYED AND PRINTED COTTONS; Togsther VV'TH A SYNOPSIS OF THE ORIGIN, CHRONOLOGY, PRO- DUCTION, KIND, CHARACTER, QUALITY, WEIGHTS, MEASURES, COUNTS, ETC., OF THE LEADING COT- TON MANUFACTURES OF THE WORLD; Also A CONCISE HISTORY OF THE RAW MATERIAL, ITS CHARACTER, VARIETIES, QUALITIES, CULTIVATION, PR,ODUCTION, CONSUMPTION, ETC. PREMIUM BOOK For Subscribers to the Dry Goods Chroniclj; only, CAN BE OBTAINED IN NO O DRY GOODS CHRONICA 143 CHAMBERS STREET AND 335 BROADWAr, NEW YORK. 6 S'^ Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1889, by the Dry Goods Chronicle Publishing Company, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. All Rights and Privileges Reserved. ^iwYY?^ CONTENTS. A. PAGE Acid Colors in Calico Printing 93 Acres on which Cotton Crop of the World is Produced 46 Acreage of Cotton in the ten Cotton Growing States, 1879 to 1889. 144 Additional Points on Calico Printing 96 Adulterated or Loaded British Cottons « 88 African Cotton ,.... 129 Ageing Process in Calico Printing » 97 " Allen " Cotton 132 Alhambra Qiiilts 38 Alizarins in Calico Printing 101 American Cotton o 127 American Print Cloths 92 American Cotton Plant — Illustration and Description 122 American Ginghams , 37 American Cambrics 39 Analysis of the Widths, Weights, Counts, etc., of Domestic Cottons 170,171, 172 Ancient Spinning Wheel of Hindostan 36 Aniline Blacks and Blues in Calico Printing 100 Aniline Colors in Calico Printing 93 Annual Crops, Exports and Home Consumption of American Cotton Since 1841 152 Anthracene Colors in Calico Printing 100 Appleton Comj)any in 1835 .... 72 Austro-Hungarian Exports of Cotton Yarns and Tissues . . , 78 Austrian Cotton Industries 124 Azo Colors in Calico Printing 94 Average Length of American Cotton 132 Average Weight of American Cotton Bales 146 Average Selling Price of Ordinary Plain Cotton Cloth in Eng- land from 18 J 4 to 1833 80 B Back Starching Printed Cottons 104 Badly Covered Cotton Cloth* . 33 Bahia Cotton 12S Bed Ticking (Made in the United States in 1809) 75 Beginning of American Cotton Manufactures 17 Belgian Co.tton Industries 124 Bengal Cotton 129 "Bender " Cotton. 132 Benzol Colors in Calico Printing 100 Berbice Cotton , 128 Beverly Cotton Company , . 17 Biaz (Cotton Cloth) 74 Bleached Canton Flannels (Amei-ican) Widths, Weights and Picks 201 Bleached Sheetings and Shirtings (American) — ^Widths, Weights and Picks 185 to 195 Bleaching Printing Cloth 91 Block Calico Printing 105 Blue Mottle (British Cotton Cloth) 120 Bokharian Biaz {Cotton Cloth) 74 Bourbon ( 'otton 129 Bourette (Cotton Cloth) , 37 Bottom, or Swamp Cotton 132 Bowing Cotton 31 "Bull-hide" (British Cotton Cloth) 37 Burnley ' ' Lumps ' ' (British Cotton Cloth) 119 Bundling Cotton Yarn 54 Bundling (Cotton Yarn) Press 54 Bunting (Cotton)— Widths, Weights and Picks 199 Burnley Printers (British Cotton Cloth) 119 Butternut (Cotton Cloth) 23 Buying Cotton for Future Delivery 42 CONTENTS. Brazilian Cotton Industry 126 Brilliants (British Cotton Cloth) 74 British Calicoes and Muslins Printed in 1796 and 1800 115 British Cottons — Widths, Lengths, Reeds, Picks and Weights. .. 203 British Exports of Cotton Yarns and Tissues 78 British Exports Sewing Thread 86 British Muslins in 1793 151 British Shirtings 118 Brocades 32 Broken Picks in Cotton Cloth 33 Brown Sheetings and Shirtings (American) — ^Widths, Weights and Counts 173 to 184 Brown Cotton Flannels (American) Widths, Weights and Picks 200, 201 o Calico Finishing Machine ■ Ill Calico in the Form of Sateen 110 Calico Printing (Additional Points) 96 Calico Printing Machine— Illustration and Description 95 Calender Machine— Illustrated 102 Calendering Printed Cottons , 104 Cambrics (American) 39 Cambrics (British) 120 Cambrics (American) - Widths, Weights and Picks 199 Camlets (American)— Widths, Weights and Picks. , 199 Canadian Cotton Goods Industry .. 126 Capacity of our Cotton Bagging Mills 124 Capital, Eax'nings and Dividends of some New England Cotton Mills ,. 142 Caraccas Cotton 128 Carding, Roving and Drawing Cotton 5;j Carthagena Cotton 12H Cayenne Cotton 128 Census Report of United States Cotton Factories in 1810 18 Chambrays 74 Character of Bed ticking, Stripes. Checks, Ginghams, Shirtings and Counterpanes Made in United States in 1809.. 75 Characteristics of Some Cotton Textures 130 Character of Cotton Goods Trade of New York, Boston and Philadelphia Forty Years Ago 47 Checks (American)— Widths, Weights and Picks 199 Checks (British) 120 Checks (Made in United;States in 1809) 75 Cheviots (American) —Widths, Weights and Picks 198 Clironology of American Cotton Manufactures 165 Chronology of Raw Cotton, Cotton Yarn, Cotton Goods, etc., of the World.... 204 to 208 Classification of Leading American Cottons 60 Classification of Cotton in New York . .... 138 Classification of Cotton Cloth 34 Cleaning and Opening Cotton 21 Cleaning Cotton by Hand 72 Cloth Looking or Examining 33 Cloth Selvages 107 Coal Tar Colors in Calico Printing 94 Colors (Definition of Tones, Scales and Hues) 103 Colors — Fastness of 164 Cockley Cotton Cloth ... 33 Comparative Cost of Compressing and Stowing Cotton in United States 141 Comparative Expenses of Cotton Manufacturing in 1860 and 1880 in United States -. 60 Comparative Filaments i!i a Pound of Cotton . 124 Comparative Strength of Mule Twist. fi2 Comparative Values of Difterent Kinds of Cotton 143 Comparative Wages of American and English Cotton Operatives 60 Common Cotton Fabrics of the World Compared . . 55 Common Jenny and Stock Card 18 CONTENTS. Consolidation of British Customs in 1787 114 Consumption of Cotton in Soutliern Mills 142 Consumption of Cotton Goods Throughout the World 46 Consumption of Twine in United States 4G Cops (Cotton Yarns) 50 Cost of Cotton in Lowell and Lancashire 136 Cost of Cotton Spindles in United States 133 Cost of Heavy Cottons in United States 38 Cost of Operating Northern and Southern Mills 48 Cost and Selling Prices of Various Kinds of Cottons in United States for a Series of Years 62 to 70 Cost of Raising Cotton per Pound 133 Cost of Shipping Cotton at Various United States Ports 134, 135 Cost of Weaving Print Cloths in England and America 92 Cost of " Woven Wind " Muslins 152 Cotton Beating with Sticks and Rattan Frames 26 Cotton Bunting— Widths, Weights and Picks 199 Cotton Centre of the United States 140 Cotton (Classification in New York) 138 Cotton (Gleaned by Hand) 72 Cotton Cloth (Classification of) 34 Cotton Cloth (Cockley) 33 Cotton Cloth (Looking or Examining) 33 Cotton (Comparative Expenses of) Manufacturing in United States in 1860 and 1880. 60 Cotton (Cost of Spindles in United States) 133 Cotton (Cost of Shipping at Varioiis United States Ports... 134, 135 Cotton (Cost of in Lowell and Lancaster) 136 Cotton (Cost of Raising per Pound) 133 Cotton (Consumption of in Southern Mills) . . 142 Cotton Consumed in Manufacturing in United States in 1805., . . 159 Cotton Cords (British) 37 Cotton Consumed in Manufacturing 110 Cotton Consumed in England in 1787 , 112 Cotton Crops of Egypt. 86 Cotton (Diflerent Staples of) 149 Cotton Export Sacks (United States) 59 Cotton Fabrics (Common) of the World Compared 55 Cotton Factories in 1810 18 Cotton Factories in Providence, R. I. . in 1809 18 Cotton Factories (American) in 1791, 1805, 1812 and 1817 159 Cotton Factory — Illustration and Description 87 Cotton Flannels (American)— Widths, Weights and Picks... 200, 201 Cotton Gin— Illustration and Description 40, 41 Cotton Goods (Consumption of Throughout the World) 46 Cotton Goods Credits in United States in 1818 101 Cotton Goods, Domestic (Sold in Philadelphia in 1804-1806) 31 Cotton Goods Industry (Displacement of Labor by Machinery in United States 55 Cotton Goods Trade of United States Forty Tears Ago ... 47 Cotton Industry of the World in 1888 110 Cotton Loom— Illustration and Description 23 Cotton Looms of United States in 1887 147 Cotton Looms of Other Countries in 1888 147 Cotton Manufacturing in Providence, R. I. , in 1809 75 Cotton Mills (Old and New) ... 78 Cotton Mills. Rhode Island, Massachusetts and Connecticut, in 1815 . 18 Cotton Manufacturing in Lowell, Mass., in 1835 72 Cotton Manufactures of United States in 1880 154, 155 Cotton Manufactures of Augusta, Ga 34 Cotton Manufacturing in the North and South Compared 160 Cotton Manufacturing Districts of England 116, 117 Cotton Manufactures of Philadelphia in 1782 161 Cotton (Opening and Cleaning) 21 Cotton Operatives (Daily Wages of American, 1827) 75 Cotton (Our Long Staple) ..139 Cotton Picking in United States 135 Cotton Plant in Bloom —Illustration and Description 143 CONTENTS. Cotton Power Loom — Illustration and Description 81, 82 Cotton Power Looms of Great Britain in 1833 113 Cottons Printed at Lowell, Mass., in 1827 75 Cotton Production of the World Prior to 1880 139 Cotton Spindles in United States in 1807 18 Cotton Spinning in Rhode Island in 1788 , 17 Cotton Spindles in the United States in 1889 c. . . 158 Cotton Spindles of Other Countries in 1889 1.58 Cotton Skips and Cops (Cotton Yarns) 50 Cotton Stowing and Compressing in United States 41 Cotton Supply of the World in 1889 -90. Ui Cotton Terry Cloth 39 Cotton Thread of American Origin , ifil Cotton Twine and Shoe Thread , ; 48 Cotton Warp Yarn .... . . 50 Cotton Yarn Calculations 51 Cotton Yarns (Duties in Eoi'eign Countries) 76 Cottonades (Decline in Demand for) 42 Cottonades — Widths, Weights and Picks 201 Cottons (Classification of Leading American!. 60 Cottons (Cost and Selling Prices of Various Kinds in United States for a Series of Years) 62 to 70 Cottons (Diversification of American) , 56 Counterpanes 34 Counterpanes (Made in United States in 1809) 75 Corduroy 37 Cretonnes 121 Cuniana Cotton 128 Curtain Damask 32 Customs, British (Consolidation of in 1787) 114 Cylinder Printing on Cotton Cloth 105 Cypress Cotton 129 D Daily Wages of American Cotton Operatives in 1827 75 Damask 32 Decline in the Demand for Cottonades 42 Definition of Tones, Scales and Hues of Colors 108 Demarara Cotton 128 Denims (Amei'ican) — Widths, Weights and Picks 202 Derries (British) 37 Design of Fabric 27 Dhooties (British) 118 Diapers (British) 37 Differences in Textile Fibres 88 Difference Between Mule and Throstle Twist 52 Difference Between Cylinder and Block Printing on Cotton Cloth ,. lOS Difference 1 etween Twill Cloth and Plain Cloth . . 29 Different Staples of Cotton 149 Dimity (British) , 32 Discharging Process in Calico Printing 98 Displacement of Labor in the Cotton Goods Industry of United States by Machinery 55 Diversification of Kind, Style and Quality of American Cottons. 56 Domestic Cotton Goods Sold in Philadelphia in 1804-6 .... , . 31 Domestics (British) 121 Doriah Stripes (British) 121 Dunging Process in Calico Printing ... 97 Duties on Cotton Yarns in Foreign Countries 76 Duties on English Cottons in 1700, 1712. 1714, 1720, 1736, 1774, 1784, 1785, 1787 to 1S31 .. .. 113,114 Duties on Foreign Cottons Imported into United States Reduced from 55 to 23 per cent, in 1883 , 74 Duty of Cloth Looker 33 Drawing Cotton 53 Drawing Frame 22 Draw-Loom 160 CONTENTS. Dressing Machine ,. 24 Drawing and Slubbing 22 Drills (British) 1'20 Drill Sacks (American) 59 Drills (American) —Widths, Weights and Picks 191 Dyewood Extract Colors in Dyeing and Printing Cotton Cloth. . 94 E Early Kestrictions on Calico Printing in England 113 Early British Cotton Industries 112 Early History of Calico Printing 89 East India Cotton 129 Effect of Heat on Cotton Fabrics 110 Egyptian Cotton , 129 Electricity in Printing Cottons 109 Embroidery Cloth (British) 120 Engraved Copper Cylinder and Blocks in Calico Printing 105 Engraving Copper Rollers for Printing Calico 106 English Cotton Blankets and Flannels 47 English Print Cloths .. . 92 English Cotton Goods of Standard Make in 1800, 1830 and 1S4G. . 74 English Cotton Yarn Standard 51 English Ginghams 37 English and Scotch Cotton Power Looms in 1820 and 1829 . . . 112 Establishment of Cotton Goods Commission Houses in New York . 47 Estimated Number of Working Spindles in United States, 1880- 1889.. .. 153 Estimated Number Cotton Spindles in Europe, 1888-89 153 Ethics of Cotton Buying in United States 135 European Exports of Cotton Yarns and Cotton Tissues 78 Exports of American Cottons in 1887 and 1888 148 Exports of British Cottons to United States from 1831 to 1846. ... 147 Exports of Cottons from England from 1701 to 1800 112 Exportation and Consumption of British Calicoes in 1814, 1S20 and 1830 115 Extract Styles in Calico Printing 98 F Fabrics Produced from Different Varieties of Cotton .... 61 Fancy Jacquard Cloths (British) 121 Fastness of Colors 164 Faults in Cotton Cloth 33 Fibres of Cotton Magnified , 156, 157 Fibres (Difference in Textile) .... ' 88 Figured Borders (British Cotton Cloth) 34 Figured Canvas (British Cotton Cloth) 32 Figured Checks (British Cotton Cloth) 34 Figured Gauze (British Cotton Cloth) 32 Finishing Printed Cottons 103, 104 First Cotton Goods Made in England 105 First Mechanical Invention Employed in Spinning Cotton 36 Fixing Process in Calico Printing 97 Fixing Colors on Cotton Cloth 96 Flannels, Cotton (American) — Widths, Weights and Picks... 200, 201 Floats in Cotton Cloth 33 Furniture Damask 32 Fustians (British) 37 Friction Calender for Calendering Cottons 104 Freight and Insurance on Cotton . 141 French Cotton Maniifactures , 123 French Cotton Yai-n Standard 51 French Exports of Cotton Yarns and Tissues 78 French Nainsooks . 39 From Raw Cotton to Cotton Cloth . . . , 20 Future Delivery (Buying Cotton for) 42 CONTENTS. Gauze-Leno (British) 74 General Method of Planting Cotton 146 Genoa Cotton Cloth (British) , 37 German Cotton Manufacturing Interests 123 German Exports of Cotton Yarns and Tissues 78 Ginning Cotton.. — 20 Ginghams (American)— Widths, Weights and Picks 198 Ginghams (British) 120 Ginghams (Made in United States in 1809) 75 Giron Cotton 128 Glossop Printers (British Cotton Cloth) 119 Grecian Quilts (British) 38 H Hamilton Company in 1835 72 Hand-Loom — Illustration and Description 49 Hair-Cord Muslin (British) 120 Highest and Lowest Prices for Middling Upland Cotton in New- York and Liverpool, 1882 to 1890 138 Hindoo Bowing Cotton — Illustration and Description 31 Hindoo Churka— Illustration and Description 26 Hindoo Cotton Cloths (British) 119 Hindoo Cotton Foot Eoller— Hlustration and Description 19 Hindoo Cotton Loom — Illustration and Description 45 Hindoo Cotton Weaver at his Loom— Illustration and Descrip- tion 45 Hindoo or East Indian Cottons 74 Hindoo Woman Spinning Cotton— Illustration and Description. 36 Hooking or Plaiting Machine 33 Holland Cotton Industries. , 124 Homespun Cotton Cloth 23 Honey Comb Quilts 38 How Cotton Eollera for Printing Calico are Engraved 106 How Cotton Yarns are Measured 161 Horse Power for Propelling Cotton Machinery 57 How Indigo Prints are Made 90 How to Distinguish Cotton from Flax 124 How Spool Cotton is Made 44 Hues of Colors in Dyeing and Printing on Cotton Cloth 108 " Hungarians " (British Cotton Cloth) 37 I Italian Cotton Industries 124 Import Duties (United States) on Bleached Cottons 58 Imported Cambric 39 Import Duties (United States) on Cotton Galloons, Gimps, etc. . . 59 Import Duties (United States) on Cotton Thread, Yarn, Warps.. 163 Import Duties (United States) on Unbleached Cottons 58 Import Duties (United States) on Strictly Cotton Goods 58 Index to Selling Agents of Domestic Cottons 166, 167, 168, 169 Influence of Light on Dyed Colors .. — 108 Interweaving of Warp and Weft Threads in Cotton Cloth 30 Introduction 13, 14 Invention of Cotton Thread 43 Iron Steam Blacks in Calico Printing 100 J Jaconets (British) 120 Jacquard Cotton Cloth 32 Jacquard Loom ■ 164 Javanese Cotton Cloths (British) 119 Jeanette (British Cotton Cloth) 37 Jean Stripes (British Cotton Cloth) 37 Jute Export — Sacks (American) 59 K Kinds and Qualities of Raw Cotton Produced Throughout the World 127 CONTENTS. L lia Guayra Cotton 128 Largest Cotton Mill in the World 163 Lawrence Company in 1835 72 Liming Print Cloth . , . . 91 Loaded British Cottons " * " 88 Location of the Cotton Goods Trade of Great Britain. . .......... 86 Logwood Extract in Calico Printing. 101 Loose Reeds in Weaving Cotton Cloth [ 33 Long Cloths (British) .'* 119 Loss of Length in Twisting Cotton Yarn 75 Loss of Weight in Bleaching Cotton '.".'. .' . 1 ! .' .' .' '. 86 Lowell Company in 1835 \ 72 M Madapollams (British Cottons) 119 Madapollam Percale (American) 39 Madder Styles in Calico Printing 99 Madras Cotton 129 Manufacture of Cotton Counterpanes and Quilts 38 Manufacture of Cotton Cords, Fustians, etc 37 Manufactured Cottons Consumed by the World....' 151 Maranham Cotton , .'.'. 128 Marseilles and Toilet Quilts ' 38 McCarthy Cotton Gin . .' 20 Merrimack Company in 1835 72 Metric System of Length 159 Mexicans (British Cotton Cloths) V V 119 Mill Brands of British Cottons 46 Mills in United States Making Brown, Bleached and Colored Cottons , 56 Mineral Colors in Calico Printing [... 93 Moleskins (British Cotton Cloths) 37 Mordants in Calico Printing. . , 94 Movement of Cotton Production in United States Southward and Westward 140 Mule-Jenny , .'. 57 Mule Yarn 57 Mulls (British Cottons) .., .'." V.V. . . . , 120 Muslins (British) in 1793 151 Nainsooks, Cambrics and Percales for Underwear 39 Nankeen Cloth 42 Nankeens— Widths, Weights and Picks 199 Naphthaline Colors in Cailco Printing , 100 Naturally and Artificially Dyed Nankeen Cloth 42 Natural Organic Colors in Calico Printing and Dyeing 94 Needle Saw Cotton Gin 20 New Orleans Cotton , 127 Norwegian and Swedish Cotton Industries 124 No Sheetings, Shirtings, Ginghams, etc.. Made in United States Before 1790 106 Numbers in Threads. 43 o Old and New Cotton Gins 140 Old and New Cotton Mills - 78 Old Time Spinning Wheel — Illustration and Description 35 One Pound of Cotton Yarn Reaching 1,000 Miles 59 Only Two Ways of Prodvicing a Heavy Cotton Fabric" 51 Our Cotton Goods Trade Forty Years Ago 47 Our Long-Stapled Cotton 139 Ornamental Weaving of Cotton Cloth 25 Original Gingham 37 Original Spinning Frame 22 Origin of the Manufacture of Thread . i i3 Osnaburg Sacks (American) ...... 59 Oxidation Colors in Calico Dyeing and Printing 94 CONTENTS. Padding Styles in Calico Printing 98 Passing Warp Over and Under the Weft in Weaving Cotton Clotli 30 Percentage of Different Lengths in the Staple of Cotton 136 Percentage of Sizing in English, French and American Cottons. . 65 Perched Quiltings (British) . .. 38 Perforations Between Warp and Weft Threads in Cotton Cloth.. 28 Perforations in Plain Cotton Cloth — Illustration 28 Pernambxico Cotton 127 Philadelphia " Blue Goods " (Colored Cottons). 47 Philadelphia Cotton Manufactures in 1782 161 PicMs of Standard American Sheetings and Shirtings 145 Pick or Thread Counting Machine— Description and Illustra- tion . 170,171,172 Picks per Minute in Weaving Cotton Cloth 55 Pigments Used in Dyeing and Printing Cotton Cloth 93 Pira or Cop (Cotton Yarn Spinning) 36 Plain Cotton Cloth 27 Plain and Ornamental Weaving of Cotton Cloth 25 Plain Weaving of Cotton Cloth 25 Price (Average Selling) of Plain Cotton Cloth in England from 1814tol833.. 80 Price of American Cotton Goods in 1789-91 79 Price of American Bleached Cottons in 1827 75 Price of British Printed Cotton Cloth Exported to United States from 1827 to 1832 80 Price of British Cottons Exported to United States and Other Countries in 1833 79 Price of Cotton Lands in United States . 133 Price of Domestic Ginghams in 1818 101 Prices of Domestic Cottons in 1859, 1860, 1887 and 1889 83, 84, 85 Price of Hudson (N. Y.) Calicoes in 1836 26 Price of Middlings Cotton in United States in 1859, 1860, 1887 and 1889 138 Price of Prints in United States in 1827 . 75 Price of Standard Printing Cloths in United States During the War 133 Principal Colors, etc.. Used in Dyeing and Printing Cotton Cloth 93, 94 Print Cloth (Cost of Weaving in England and America) 92 Printed Colors and Dyed Colors Used on Cottons 97 Printers (British Cotton Cloths) 119 Principal Machinery Used in Cotton Spinning 21 Processes Cotton Cloth in the Gray Undergoes Before it Becomes Printed Calico 90 Product of Almy & Brown, of Providence, R. I., in 1789-90 18 Product of Printed Cottons in New England in 1824 and 1860. ... 89 Production and Exportation of British Cotton Goods 150 Production per Week of Print Cloths at Fall River and Lowell . . 92 Production of Cotton Goods in England from 1793 to 1833. 162 Production of Cotton Goods in Philadelphia in 1788 162 Profits of Cotton Manufacturing in United States 150 Progress in Cotton Spinning and Weaving 107 Q Qualities of Cotton Used in Making Different Kinds of Cottons . . 61 Qualities of Raw Cotton Produced Throughout the World 127 Raw Cotton to Cloth . 20 Raw Cotton Consumed by the World 145 lied Woods Used in Dyeing and Printing Cotton Cloth 99 "Reeler" Cotton 132 Reedy Cotton Cloth 33 Regular and Fancy Brands of American Cottons 56 Relative Cost of Cotton in New England and Old England. . . . 60 Report of Committee on Manufactures to Congress in 1815. ... 13 CONTENTS. Requirements of a Cotton Factory 73 Resist Process in Calico Printing 98 RioCotton .... 128 Rope — Hints on Selecting 163 Roving Cotton 53 Russian Cotton Industry 125 s Salonica Cotton 129 Sateens (Araericau) 34 Sateens (Calico in the Korm of ) ■ 110 Sateens (American) — Widths, Weights and Picks 202 S.itin Checks (British) 74 Scales of Colors Used in Dyeing and Printing Cotton Cloth 108 Singeing Print Cloth 91 Six-Cord Spool Cotton 43 Sizing or Dressing Cotton Cloth 54 Sea Island Cotton of Georgia— Illustration and Description 131 Seersuckers (British) 37 Selecting Rope - Hints on .... 163 Selling Prices of Cotton in England in 1780 , 115 Selling Prices of American Cottons and Prints in 1827 75 Scouring or Boiling Print Cloth 91 Sheetings (British) 120 Sheetings.JbJrown (American) — Widths, Weights and Counts.l73to 184 Sheetings, Bleached (American) — Widths, Weights and Counts 185tol95 Shirting Cloth (British)— Widths, Weights and Picks 202 Shirtings, Brown (American) — Widths, Weights and Count8.173 to 184 Shirtings, Bleached (American) — Widths, Weights and Counts 185 to 195 Shirtings (British) 178 Shirtings (Made in United States in 1809) 75 Skips (Cotton Yarns) 50 Skirtings (American ) — Widths, Weights and Picks 199 Slasher and Sizing Machine — Illustration - 76 Slater, Mrs. Samuel 43 Slater, Samuel— Portrait and Biographical Sketch 2 Sliver of Cotton 53 Slubbing Frame , 22 Snick in Cotton Yarn 50 South American Cotton 127 Spanish Cotton Industries 124 Spinning Cotton 22 Spinning Cotton on the Hand-WheeL 35 Spinning Wheel (Old Time) 35 Stamping Print Cloth . 91 Standard Makes of British Cottons 121 Standard American Grain Sacks and Bags 59 Statistics of Special Cotton Mills in United States in 1880 . . 153 Starching Printed Cottons = .' . . 103 Steam Mineral Colors in Calico Printing. 94 Steam Styles of Prints • 107 Stretching Printed Cottons 104 Stripes and Checks 34 Suitings— Widths, Weights and Picks 199 Suffolk Company in 1835 72 Surat Cotton 129 Surinam Cotton 128 Smyrna Cotton t . . 129 Swiss Cotton Industry 126 Syrian Cotton Industries.... 125 T Taffechelas (British Cottons) 120 Tan Jibs (British Cottons) 74, 120 Tanty or Hindoo Weaver 45 Tape Checks (British Cottons) 121 Tariff Revision (United States) on Foreign Cottons in 1883 74 CONTENTS. Tarletan Muslin (British) 120 TashkeiKl Biaz (Cotton Cloth) 74 Teclmical Classification of Cotton 132 T-Cloths (British Cottons) 119 Teudel or Buyak (Cotton Cloth) 74 Tenuity of Cotton Fibres 124 Tenison of Cotton Fibres 54 Terry Towelling 39 Thickening or Sizing Materials Used in Dyeing and Printing Cotton Cloth 94 Thicksets (British Cottons) • 37 Thread (Cotton)— United States Import Duties 163 Three-Cord Spool Cotton 43 Three Operations In Dyeing Cotton Cloth 115 Throstle — Illustration and Description 61 Throstle and Mule- Jenny 23 Throstle Yarn 57 Tickings (American)— Widths, Weights and Picks 196, 197 Tones of Colors 108 Topical Process in Calico Printing 98 Turkey Ked Goods » 101 Turkey Reds (British) 119 Turkish Towelling 39 Tremont Company in 1835 72 Twilled Cotton Cloth 29 Twill of Very Common Order 29 Twine (Consumption of in United States) 46 Twist (Difference Between Mule and Throstle) 52 Twist in Thread of English Muslin . . 54 Twist in Thread of Dacca Muslin 54 Twist in Thread of French Muslin 54 Twist of Weft and Warp in Cotton Cloths 29 Two Kinds of Cotton Goods Printers 92 TJ Umbrella Ginghams i 37 Upland Cotton...; 127 V Value of American Cotton Crop in 1889 27 Value of English Cotton Manufactures in 1767 and 1787 112 Varieties of British Cotton Cloth 118 to 121 Varieties of American Cotton 130 Velveteens (British Cottons) 34 Victoria Lawns 120 Wages of American and English Cotton Operatives 60 Warping and Dressing Cotton Yarns 24 Warping Frame — Illustration 71 Waste Plains (British Cottons) 120 Water Frame ■■ Cotton Spinning) 22 Water Twist (Cotton Yarn) 22 Warp and Weft Threads (Cotton) —Illustration 27 Weaving Plain ^nd Twilled Cotton Cloth 27 West India Cotton 128, 129 West Indian Cotton Plant— Illustration and Description 137 Where 25 Per Cent, of our Brown Cottons are Made. . ... 34 Whitney Cotton Gin. 20 Widths, Lengths, Reeds, Picks and Weights of British Cottons. 203 Winding Machine (Cotton Winding)— Illustration 67 Woven or Warp Pile Cotton Cloth 34 Wrapping Cotton Yarn 51 "WovenWind' Muslins (Cost of) 152 Y Yarns (Cotton)— How they are Measured . . 161 z Zephyrs (Cotton) 37, 120 INTRODUCTION, THE DRY GOODS CHKONICLE, appreciating the want, on part of the general trade, of more spe- cific and practical information relative to the cotton goods which they handle, buy and sell, has prepared this book for their behoof and benefit. In its preparation (which has extended over many months) great care, exactitude and research have been used in the writing, collecting, collating, compiling and arranging of matter specially interesting and useful to the buyers and sellers of plain, dyed and printed cottons, as well as to the grower, the factor and the manufacturer of raw cotton. Aside from the varied research indicated, and the consultation of manufacturing and other textile authori- ties bearing directly upon the subjects treated — skilled experts have been employed in the examination, the measuring, the weighing, and the computation of the weft and warp threads which obtain to the square inch respectively in the various domestic makes of brown, bleached and colored cottons, ginghams, prints, etc. For these purposes mechanical appliances of the most accurate description — specially made to order at home and abroad — have been employed, viz. : weighing scales, counting-glasses, width and length measures, automatic and graduated pick or thread enumerating machines, such as are now used by the most progressive of the modern cotton factories of Europe and America, The work has also been freely illustrated with cuts of the principal machinery employed in cotton manufac- turing — showing the various processes which raw cotton undergoes before it becomes yarn, thread or woven cloth. The most reliable authorities in each instance have been referred to, and facts, figures, and other data of trustworthy character have been drawn from nearly every available source — embodying much matter which here- tofore has not appeared in print— and all arranged in such a compact, ready-reference form as to make the book an invaluable pocket-companion, not only for the cotton goods manufacturer and dealer, but also for the grower and the factor of the raw material. It is the work of the *'Dry Goods Cheonicle," and its counterpart can be found in no publication in any language or country under the sun. It is issued as the '^Premium Book" for Subscribers to the "Dry Goods Chkonicle," and can be obtained only through that means, as it is not for sale, nor will it be placed on sale. The *' pocket" form in which it appears was selected and adopted with especial reference to the convenience of the men for whom it is intended to be a guide — its size and shape making it readily transportable in the coat-pocket, without bulkiness. As a great deal of the information contained in it has been drawn from almost every accessible source under circumstances making it impossible to give due credit in all instances — suffice it, that we extend herewith a general tender of thanks for all such indebtedness. THE DKY GOODS CHRONICLE. New York, Jan. 1, 1890. 17 Beginning of American Cotton Manufacture. In a petition to the Senate and House of Representa- tives of Massachusetts, presented June 2, 1790, only- three years after the Beverly Cotton Company had com- menced operations, the owners stated that their expen- diture had already amounted to "nearly £4,000, whilst the value of their remaining stock was not equal to £2,000, and a further very considerable advance was absolutely necessary to obtain that degree of perfection in the mannfactures which alone could insure success.' This petition and other collateral facts, sufficiently prove that cotton spinning in this country, further than the hand-card and one-thread wheel, was carried through its first struggles by the Beverly Company, in Massachusetts. And from this State the manu- facture was carried to Ehode Island, though it must be acknowledged that both States were indebted to foreign immigrants for instruction and assistance in spinning and weaving, as well as in pfeparing the cotton. Cotton spinning commenced in Ehode Island in 1788, in which year Daniel Anthony, Andrew Dexter and Lewis Peck, all of Providence, entered into an agree- ment to make what was then called " home-spun cloth," The idea at first was to make jeans of linen warp spun by hand; but hearing that Mr. Ore, of Bridge- water, and the Beverly Company, of Massachusetts, had imported some models of drafts of machinery from England, they sent thither and obtained draw- ings of them, according to which they constructed machinery of their own. The first they made was a carding machine, which was something similar to those now in use for carding wool, the cotton being taken off the machine in rolls and afterward being roped by hand. The next was a spinning frame, something similar to the water frame, or rather the common jenny, but a very imperfect machine. It consisted of eight heads of four spindles each, being thirty-two spindles in all, and was wrought by means of a crank turned by hand. Such were the rude machines used for spinning cotton previous to 1790, and the wonder is not that the manufacturers failed in their undertakings, but rather that they were able to persevere. And we can now perceive that from these small beginnings the present brightened prospects received their foundation. 18 COMMON JENNY AND STOCK CARD. Previous to 1790 the common jenny and stock card had been in operation in various parts of the United States, and mixed goods of cotton and linen were woven principally by Scotch and Irish weavers. Mr. Moses Brown, of Providence, E. I., had several jennies employed in 1789, and some weavers at work on linen warps. The jennies were used for making weft, and operated by hand in the cellars of dwelling houses. During 1790 Almy and Brown, of Providence, E. I., manufactured 326 pieces, containing 7,823 yards of various kinds of goods. There were also several other companies and individuals in different parts of the Union who manufactured goods from linen warps and cotton weft. In 1807 it was estimated that the whole number of cotton spindles in operation in the United States aggre- gated 4,000. In 1809 there were seventeen cotton mills in operation within the tawn and vicinity of Provi- dence, E. I., working 14,296 spindles. Tench Coxe, in his report of the census of 1810, gives the number of cotton factories as follows: Massachusetts 54 Pennsylvania 64 Vermont 1 Delaware 3 Ehode Island 28 Maryland 11 Connecticut 14 Ohio 2 New York. 26 Kentucky 15 New Jersey 4 Tennessee 4 None in any other State. In 1815 the following number of cotton mills and spindles in Ehode Island, Massachusetts and Connecti- cut were enumerated in a memorial to Congress: Cotton Mills. Spindles. Ehode Island 99 68,142 Massachusetts 52 39,468 Connecticut 14 11,700 Total 165 119,310 A report of the Committee on Manufactures to Con- gress in 1815 also gives the following particulars of the cotton manufacture of the United States at that date: Capital... $40,000,000 Males employed of age of 17 and upwards 10,000 Boys under 17 24,000 Women and female children 66,000 Wages of 100,000, averaging $1.50 per week $15,000,000 Cotton manufactured, 90,000 bales lbs. 27,000,000 Number of yards 81,000,000 Cost, averaging 30 cents per yard $24,ii00,000 19 Mm 3^ 4 •»>'*:^ -■'-■'i^- Hindoo Cotton Foot EoUer. The following is the explanation of the above cut : A, a smooth stone; B, a stool; C, an iron; DD, wooden soles; E, the seed; F, the cotton. In ancient times the natives of India literally sep- arated the cotton from the seed with their feet, and then cleaned it with their hands. This practice still obtains in the Southern Mahratta country. The cotton is placed on a flat stone. A woman sits on a stool be- fore it. Her only implement is an iron roller, but wooden soles are fastened to each other feet. This iron roller she places on the cotton, and then rolls it back- wards and forwards with her feet, until the cotton is fairly separated from the seed, and the seed is rolled out in front, while the cotton comes out under the stone in a continuous web. The woman picks this cotton with her hands— picking away all the dirt, pieces of leaf, stray seeds, smashed seeds, and other objection- able trash. 20 PKOM EA¥ COTTON TO CLOTH. The lobes in every boll of cotton contain seeds resembling unground coffee which, when removed, leave only about one-third of the quantity gathered from the plant in clean cotton; or, in other words, according to the best authorities on the subject, two-thirds of the cotton grown and picked consist of seed, and one-third of the raw material fit to be used by the manufacturers. The most primitive machine for removing the seeds from the fibre is the Churka, used in the East Indies. It consists of two rollers, made of hard wood, fixed in a rude frame, through which the cotton is drawn and the seeds forced out in the process. The operation is said to be tedious and laborious, and the quantity of cotton that can thus be cleaned by any one machine is ex- ceedingly small. The fibre, however, is not injured, except in some slight degree by the curl which* it re- ceives in passing through the Churka. GINING. The invention of the saw gin by Eli Whitney in 1792, inaugurated an entirely new system of separating the seed from the fibre or wool. This gin and those made upon a similar principle consist of a " series of saws re- volving between the interstices of an iron bed upon which the cotton is placed, the fibre being drawn through the silts in the bed, leaving the seeds behind." Of late years the saw gin has been variously improved . but still it is stated by many manufacturers that the fibre is somewhat injured by this mode of ginning, es- pecially long-stapled cottons. However, more work can be performed by the saw gin than probably any other machine used for a similar purpose made. Its use is very general throughout the cotton-growing belt ol" the South. Other inventions for removing the seed from the wool have latterly been perfected, such as the "needle saw, consisting of steel wire set in block tin, leaving the bot- tom of the teeth round and smooth," which, it is said, prevents the fibre from being "cut and nepped ;" and a machine called the "McCarthy gin," which is ot very simple construction. By the means of the latter "the cotton is drawn by a leather roller between a metal plate called the doctor, fixed tangential to the roller, and a blade called the beater, moving up and down in a plane immediately behind Mnd parallel to the fixed plate. While the cotton is drawn through by the roller the seeds are forced out by the action of the movable blade." This machine has undergone several improve- ments and is considered the most succ ssful competitor of the saw gin yet produced. Other new inventions of similar design and character might be adverted to, but their application and use are rather exceptional than otherwise. 21 CLEANING AND OPENING. Tbe next proce -s which follows In regular order is spinning:. The principal machinery in use for this pur- pose comprises the opener, scutcher and lap machine, carding engine, drawing frame, slubbing frame, inter- mediate frame, moving frame, throstle, self-acting mule, hand-mule, doubling frame or mule doublers or twinets. The raw cotton is cleaned and opened out in the first two of these machines, and in the lao maehine into flat folds ; in the carding machine it is still further cleaned and the fibres straightened ; in the drawing Irame the fibres are laid parrallel ; the process of twisting is com- menced and carried on in the slubbing and intermediate frames, and in the throstle and mule it is converted into yarn. The raw cotton, which is received in bales, has first of all to be opened and thoroughly mixed, in order to lessen the irregularity which might ai ise from a differ- ence of quality. This process is performed by spread- ing out the contents of various bales in layers one above another; and to insure that a portion of each layer shall be in the opening machine, vertical si ices are taken from the slack of cotton or mixing, and placed in posi- tion to feed the opener. This machine is used to break up any hard lumps that there may be, and to remove any dirt which the cotton may contain. Different ma- chines are employed for the purpose which bear various designations, and their acrion carries the cotton, first placed on a feeder, forward by a combination of rollers, and before delivery by these rollers, it is struck several times by revolving blades or teeth which serve to loosen the fibres, at the same time disengaging the dirt and permittiDg it to fall through grids, which allow the im- purities to pass, but retain the fibre. The draught caused by a fan carries the cotton forward to cages, whence it is delivered to the lap machine. The scuteh- ing and lapping maehine is designed to effect a further separation of the fibres of the cotton, and to remove 8uch refuse material as may still remain. The cotton is left by the opener in fleecy state, but by means of the scutcher, to which the lap machine is attached, is formed into a roll or "lap," preparatory to the operation of carding. CAEDING. The carding engine comprises a large or main cylin- der, covered with cards, a smaller cylinder, called the doffer, and a still smaller one, called the taker-in. The last named is the first to operate upon cotton, which it receives from a pair of feed rollers, and which, after striking out the heavier part of the dirt, it delivers to the main cylinder. This main cylinder is furnished with small ones, called rollers, also covered with cards, revolving in an opposite direction to that of the l^rge cylinder, and with different velocities, by means of which the cotton is carded and put on the second cyl- inder called the doffer. The fleece of cotton is taken from ttie doffr^r by a vibrating cam and is then called the sliver, which passes through a trumpet-mouthed aperturA with the fibers straightened, and is coiled in the doffing tins or cans in readiness for the drawing frames. 22 The process oi elongation or attenuation are carried on ttirougli tlie drawing, slubbing, intermediate and finishing roving frames. The drawing frame comes into operation after carding, and is a machine for straightening and laying parallel the fibres of cotton. In it the process of doubling is commenced, and the cot- ton is drawn out by doubling and drawing out the sli- vers repeatedly through successive pair of rollers with which the drawing frame is furnished, the low or bot- tom rows being fluted and the upper or top i oiler covered with flannel or cloth and leather neatly cemented together and weighted down to the under rollers, so as to be arlven by friction from the lines of the under rollers. DRAWING AND SLUBBING. The next operation which follows drawing is that of alubbing, where the sliver has a certain amount of twist imparted to it, and is wound on a bobbin. The slub- bing frame (quoting tbesame manufacturing authority) is a machine which draws out the end, or sliver, from the last head of the drawing frame by means of three pairs of rollers, and this is twisted as It emerges from the front line of rollers by means of vertical spindles and flyers, which at the same time wind the ends upon bobbins in successive layers. The slubbing frame answers three purposes : it draws out the cotton, twists it and winds it upon a bobbin, the first being done by the rollers, the second by the spin- dles, and the third by the flyer.'^ and pressers. The in- termediate frame follows the slubbing frame, which it resembles in construction, though it has a larger num- ber of spindles and generally smaller- sized bobbins. Instead of having cans put up at the back it has "creels" in which the slubibng bobbins are put, so as to be drawn off through the rollers of the frame and doubled two into one. In spinning low numbers of yarns this frame is sometimes entirely omitted, and the slubbing frame bobbins put directly into the "creels" of the roving frame. '.Che latter resembles in principle the slubbing and intermediate frames, and is the last required before the operations of spinning, strictly so-called, com- mence. It has a greater number of spindles than either of the two preceding frames, which are set closer together, and its bobbins are also shorter and smaller than the intermediate frame. The degree of elongation com- pleted by the roving frame is technically described by the number of hanks per pound, each hank consisting of 840 yards, and the thread of a certain thickness is called so many hanks roving. In the spinning of flne numbers or counts the "jack frame" is used for a sec- ond roving, making a 30 or 40-hank roving from the bobbins of the first roving frame. SPINNING. In the Fpinning operations proper there are two kinds of frames, or machines, in general use — throstles and mules. The throstle, an extension and modification of the original spinning frame, first called "water frame," is employed in the spinning of yarn for warps, and the yarn eo spun is still known by tne name of "water twist." 23 This frame consists of a "creel containing: thie bobbins for the rovinfe frame in the centre, having on each side a set of tbree rows of rollers, througli which the roving is passed or drawn out to the required fineness. The bottom rollers are iron fluted, and the top ones are covered with leather, the speed being- so adjusted that the front rollers move faster than those behind them. Below the rollers on each side is a row of spindles filled with bobbins, and on the top of the spindles flyers are screwed, around which the thread passed and is twisted by the spindles revolving at a great velocity, while it is lapped upon the bobbin by the flyers." THEOSTLE AND MULE-JENNY. The ring and traveler spinning frame is also more or less extensively used in this country, and has, instead of a flver on the top of the spindle, a Small steel traveler working in a ring, placed in a rail called the ring rail, passing over the bobbin, and moves up and down the whole length of the bobbin. The iwist is given by the revolutions of the spindle, and the winding of the thread on the bobbin (fixed to the spindle and carried round with it) is effected by the friction of the traveler in its revolutions round the ring. The mule or mule-jenny differs from the throstle In having the spindles placed in a carriage moving back- wards and forwards. " The twist is put in as the car- riage recedes or is drawn ou^ and the winding of the yarn upon the cap is performed by a separate motion as the mule or carriage moves up, the principle of drawing being the same in both throstle and mule.% The yarn spun upon the throstle has the fibre closer twisted than that spun upon the mule, and is more ps- teemed for certain purposes, especially for making thread, than the latter. Throstle yarn is stronger and more even than mule yarn, and better adapted for warps, but the range of throstles is limited, and the counts seldom exceed 40s, though thros les are made capable of spinning y^rn up to 80s or even 100s. The reason is that the fine thread has not strength to stand the 'drag' j equired to wind the yarn on the bobbin. The mule, on the other hand, will spin both twist and weft as high as No. 100s or more, wnile still finer numbers can be spun by band- mules. Mule yarn is softer and more wooly in texture than throstle yarn, which arises from the vibration of the thread as the carrias?e is drawn out from the rol- lers." Yarn when spun, besides being woven into cloth, is also doubled and used for a variety of purposes. THE LOOM. The loom is the machine on which weaving is per- formed. The simplest form of which is the hand-loom, which is not now used in this country in weaving cot- ton fabrics unless in some few families in the Southern States, where "homespun." "butternut" cloth, etc., are still produced in the household. ' But even the produc- tion of these by the hand-loom is now very rare. The pow;pr-loom has greatly facilitated and cheapened the production of cotton fabrics so that it has entirely re- placed the former. 24 Weaving is always preceded by warping:, the object of wliich is so to arrangre all the longitudinal threads which are intended to form the chain or warp of the web, as to lorm, when spread out, a plane of parallel threads. In forming the warp a sufficient number of bobbins, filled with yarn, must be taken to furnish the number of threads of the required length of the piece of fine cloth, would be unhandy to operate with. The warp Is usually divided into six or eight parts, and as many bobbins are used to form one of tne strands as there are threads in such a part. These strands are then united on the reel and form the complete web. The spools of thread are mouted horizontally upon a square frame and revolve upon wire skewers, so that the yarn may pass off them as freely as possible. WAKPING AND DKESSING. There are two distinct forms of warping machines, one of which, the reeling machine, is used chiefly in the formation of chain for the hand-loom. This reel is of a vertical shape, from 5 to 9 feet in diameter, 7 feet high, and is moved by hand, ihe strands of thread are wound upon this reel in a screw line, and the winding is repeated six times, or oftener, or, in fact, until the re- quired number of threads for the chain is laid upon it. The threads are run singly through the steel plate, called a hec&, which forms the lease of the warp and serves for the weaver to put his lease rods in. In weaving formerly done on the power-loom the dressing of the warp was a serious obstacle, and re- quired a frequent stoppage of the loom and unwinding of the beam. The difficulty was overcome by the dressing machine, which led to the invention of the warping machine. On the latter the warp is wound directly upon a beam ; six or eight or even a greater number of these are mounted upon the dressing machine, and, on being unwound, form the warp. These machines are 'very simple and ingenious. Such a warp mill, with its numerous threads and spools, would require much attention, and would work but slowly If the motion of the machine was not checked by a very simple contrivance in case one of the threads break. This object is attained by the drop wires; a hook made of iron wire is hung upon each thread, or rather, thread passes through it ; this hook has a long stem whichmovesin the frame of the machine, and as soon as the thread breaks it drops down and arrests the mo- tion of an iron rod, which then leads the strap upon the loose pulley. The dressing machine on which the warp-beams are placed and are unwound slowly until their contents are united upon a single beam. " During its transit to a single beam the yarn passes over brushes, which move backwards and forwards, from which it receive a dress- ing, and is again dried before it reaches the main warp- beam. This drying is done by a current of heated air, which is forced upon the warp by a revolving fan, and in passing through the moist threads of the warp it dries them and makes the warp fit for winding and weaving. 25 PLAIN AND OENAMENTAIi WEAVING. It is almost next to impos?ible to accurately describe the power-loom without the aid or diagrams as it is such a complicated machine. According to the best manufacturing authorities on this subject, power-looms are now in operation in this country and Europe at the rate of 140 revolutions per minute, and on plain goods 160 revolutions per minute, and some looms will make 200 and even 250 revolutions per minute. According to this statement, as "common sheetings and shirtings require about seventy to eighty picks or threads to the inch, the loom would make at least 200 picks per minute or about five yards per hour, but coarse goods can of course be woven much faster. There are, in fact, looms In operation which work six treadles and as many shuttles with perfect ease and security, and of course weave much faster." The weaver of cotton goods, in all cases, makes it his first business to adapt those parts of his loom which move the warp and which is technically called the draught, drawing or readying-in. In every kind of weaving, whether direct or cross- weaving, the whole difference of the pattern is pro- duced either by the order of succession In which the warp is introduced into heddles. or by the order of suc- cession in which the heddles are moved. When the hed- dles have been thus far adjusted, it is the weaver's next business to connect the leaves, or heddles, with the levers or treadles, by which they are moved in such a manner as to form the desired plan. When this opera- tion is performed correctly there is no further diflficulty in obtaining the pattern wanted in the goods ; the only thing necessary is to move the treadles in the order in which they have been placed. The method of operation in ornamental weaving is first, to draw the pattern upon paper, which has pre- viously been laid out into small rectangular spaces, each line or space representing one thread of the warp as wellasolf the filling. The pattern thus drawn repre- sents in its enlarged size the figure as it will appear in the cloth when reduced to the size of the number of threads contained in it. The paper pattern thus forms a double scale, by which, to judge of the effect and to determine with great precision the readying-in, and all the subsequent operations. If great strength and thick- ness of the cloth are wanted, two different modes of weaving are resorted to, one of which makes double cloth, or weaves two webs and joins them together in one operation, and the other consists chiefly in laying three or more threads upon the face of the cloth, with such intervals between as the pattern requires, instead of crossing each thread as is done in ordinary plain weaving. Plain weaving is done by the power-loom more perfectly than it can be done on the hand-loom, and the former can be so adjusted as to weave the heav- iest goods to advantage ; any number of shuttles- at leasn as many as six -may be used with ease, and dam- ask figured goods, such as table cloths, etc., may be pro- duced in greac perfection, with the assistance of the Jacquard machine. 26 The Hindoo Glmrka. This simple implement is only one step in advance of the cotton foot roller. It consists of two rollers set in a wooden frame, with a small interval between them. These are turned with an ordinary handle, the motion of one being communicated to the other by a sort of endless screw. The cotton is passed between these rollers, and the staple is thus separated from the seed; but the cotton is turned out in a matted state, with the fibres all lying confused in different directions, so as to give a great deal of trouble to European carders. More- over, the cotton is mixed up with all the dirty bits of leaf and seed already indicated. The natives, however, can completely clean it by the laborious process of hard picking, and they appear to resort to this process for home consumption ; but for exportation they seem to content themselves with beating it with sticks on rattan frames. ■ i^«» Price of Hudson Calicoes in 1836. In 1836 the calicoes made by the Hudson Print Works at Stockport, N. Y. were sold for 18c. per j^ard. These works were established in 1826; employed 42 block printers and 5 printing machines — 2 printing four colors at once, and 3 three colors each. 27 Weaving Plain and Twilled Cotton Oloth. We are indebted to Thomas R. Ashenhiirst, Head Master of the Textile Department of the Technical Col- lege of Bradford, England, for the following general plan of plain and twilled cotton cloths: PLAIN COTTON CLOTH. The illustration given immediately below (Fig. 1) represents the general plan of what is known as plain cloth. It will be seen by examining it that there are two sets of threads, which cross each other at right angles, and which interweave alternately. WAEP AND WEFT THKEADS. The threads marked a, or the longitudinal threads, or those running in the direction of the length of the piece, are termed the warp threads, and tbe transverse threads, &, are termed the weft threads. In all woven fabrics we have these two sets of threads to deal with, and the relation which one bears to the other, as well as the order of interweaving for the purpose of forming patterns, constitute the design of the fabric. In the plain cloth plan in figure 1 it will be seen that although there is produced a very firm texture by the manner in which the two sets of threads interweave, yet there cannot possibly be produced a very close texture. Certainly the fabric will be strong, each thread sup- porting the other to the utmost, yet it cannot be made sufficiently compact to produce a heavy fabric. By tbe very manner in which the threads intersect each other, thej are prevented from lying perfectly close together; consequently, the fabric must be, in a greater or less degree, perforated. 28 PEKFOKATIONS IN Pr.AIN COTTON CLOTH. The perforations in a plain cotton cloth will vary greatly under certain conditions. For instance, the thicker the threads from which the fabric is made, the larger will be the perforations, and the thinner the threads the smaller the perforations. Of course, in such cases the perforations will bear exactly the same ratio to the diameter of the thread if the relation of the warp to weft be the same, but cloth made from fine 3'arns will possess the useful properties in a much greater degree in proportion to its weight than that made from thick threads. aaaaaaaaaa Fig. 2. PERFORATIONS BETWEEN WARP AND WEFT THREADS. If we desire to produce a cotton fabric of close tex- ture — one which will have the perforations reduced to the smallest possible dimensions — we must iisea yarn in which the fibres of which it is composed are laid as loosely together as possible. We can then, in the me- chanical operation of weaving, bring these threads closely together, and the looseness of the fibres will per- mit of their spreading out and so of reducing the inter- stices to the lowest point. On the other hand, if the threads are twisted very hard — that is, if the threads are made solid and com- pact — they will resist compression in the operation of weaving, and, the fibre being held firmly together in the thread, there is nothing left to spread out and cover the interstices; consequently we shall have an open fabric, but the fibres being firml}^ interlocked in the thread, we shall have a fabric which will bear more strain, and will offer also more resistance to friction than in the other case. 29 TWIST OF WEFT AND WARP, Another matter which materially affects the closeness of texture in a plain cotton cloth is the direction of the twist of the weft in relation to that of the warp. On reference to figure 1 it will be seen that the two sets of thread, when placed together in the fabric, have the twist running in the same direction; that being so, the fibres — or, if one may so term them, the strands — ^of the two sets of threads will become embedded into each other, and so make a close and compact fabric. If, on the other hand, the twist of the weft be contrary to that of the warp when the two are placed together, as shown in the figxire 2, the threads cannot become so intimately connected, and, consequently, the fabric cannot be so close and free from perforation. Twilled Cotton Olotli. The class of fabrics which comes nearest to plain cloth is that known as twills or twilled fabrics ; and in their production we may have two objects in view — first, increase of bulk or bulkiness of fabric ; and second, ornamentation. Fiff.3. TWILL OF VERY COMMON OEDEE. The first and chief difference between twill cloth and plain cloth is that on the latter the warp and weft inter- weave alternately, whereas in twilled fabrics they inter- weave at such intervals as may be required for the formation of the pattern. Again, what is termed the complete pattern in plain cloth is represented by two ends of warp and two picks of weft, while in twilled cloth a greater number of ends and picks are required to complete the pattern; or, in other words, in all plain cloths every alternate end is a repetition; the same holds of the picks, but in twilled cloths the repetition will occur at longer intervals. Figure 3 shows the plan of a twill of a very common order, and one regularly in use in fabrics made from cotton as well as from all other kinds of materials. 30 PASSING OP WAKP OVEB AND UNDER THE WEFT. In figure 3 it will be seen that each warp thread passes alternately over and tinder two weft threads or picks, and in like manner each weft thread passes al- ternately under and over two warp threads. But each end does not pass under and over the same two picks, nor does each pick pass under or over the same two ends, nor are they alternate in their action, as are the ends and picks of plain cloth; but they change in regu- lar consecutive order; that is, if the first end passes over numbers one and two picks, the second end passes over numbers two and three picks, and so on, each end advancing one pick before it rises to the surface, or passes to the back, and each pick advancing one end in the same manner. This order of changing of the ends and picks will have the effect of producing a distinct pattern upon the fabric, a species of cord running in a diagonal direction across it. But another matter of much more importance than the mere pattern is the fact that the order of working permits us to introduce more material into the fabric, and so make it more bulky and closer in construction. The reason for this is to be found in the simple fact that the weft and warp interweaving only at intervals of two ends or picks permit the two threads, both warp and weft, to lie closely together, and consequently to allow of a greater number per inch to be introduced into the fabric than can be done in plain cloths, True, as previously shown, we may make plain cloths in which the warp threads lie close together, and others in which the weft threads lie perfectly close together; but in the one case the weft threads are a considerable distance apart, and on the other the warp threads are a considerable distance apart, whereas in the twill cloth the weft and warp both lie equally close together, so that we obtain the requisite closeness of texture in both directions, and a corresponding one in the bulk of the fabric. Along with the closeness of texture, and in- creased weight or bulk, we also obtain another advan- tage over the plain cloth, viz, : that by the order of interweaving the v/arp bends round the weft, and the weft round the warp in an equal degree, exactly as in the first order of plain cloth. 31 Hindoo Bowing Cotton. The Hindoo bow for cleaning cotton is made of bam- boo, and is fastened by strings to the wall of the room, at about five feet from the floor. To the middle of this bow a cord is tied, to which a second bow is attached of a larger size, strung with thick cat-gut. This second bow hangs about two feet above the ground. The man sits down, lays hold of it with the left hand, and holds a strong ebony club in his right. Thus equipped, he strikes the string of the bow with his club, so as to make it toss a flock of the cotton, spread upon the floor round about him, up into the air with great vio- lence, and thus discharges its impurities. Domestic Cotton Goods Sold in Philadelpiiia from 1804 to 1806. The amount of domestic cotton goods sold in Philadel- phia, the produce of New England, from 1804 to 1806, inclusive, is given in the following statement : 1804. 1805. 1806. Cotton Yarn $2,388 $3,805 $6,185 Cotton Woven Goods 1,526 1,581 2,185 Total .- $3,914 $5,386 $8,370 Total of sales for the three years, $17,670. 32 Jacquard Cotton Cloth. Regular cloths vary from small patterns on twenty ends and twenty picks to others with 2,000 ends and picks in a round, while for exceptional cases these limits are far exceeded, according to textile authority. "A feature of many Jacquard cloths is a figure more or less fanciful on a ground which may be plain, twill, satin or oatmeal weave. Spots and brilliants are ex- amples of this style. "Damasks are extensively made. The true damask weave consists of a design of large extent, woven, we will suppose, with weft predominating in the figure, which may be bound by satin or twill weave. The ground is also in similar weave, but with warp predomi- nating. Thus the cloth is firmly bound at all parts of the surface, and is reversible. **The damasks woven in cotton do not always fulfill these conditions, but are sufficiently similar to war- rant their being classified together. Frequently they are made in light goods of about sixty ends and picks per inch for export to China and other countries, or heavier both in yarn and pick, with a finer reed, for the home grade. These goods are of great variety of pat- tern, and are generally finished before use, or, as in the case of furniture and curtain damasks, dyed. "Dimity is a cloth of smaller pretentions with regard to figure, which is arranged in stripe form. The cloth is firmly bound and the figure somewhat raised, which gives it an embossed effect. *' Brocades are Jacquard cloths of fine yarns, the pat- tern arranged in weft spot on plain ground, or narrow stripes of spotted figures, which, when well finished, have a charming effect. The brocade is not limited to the longitudinal stripe or figure, but may be arranged as a brocade check, while the ground cloth in either case may be of plain weave. A good effect is also produced by arranging this style in diamond figures b}^ introduc- ing honeycomb diagonally. *' Figured canvas gives a pleasing effect when dyed. The figure is woven in plain cloth, and the work between the figures shows the ends cramped together alternately with open spaces, so as to give an open effect, on which the figures show to advantage. "Figured gauze cloths are woven b3'- the Jacquard." 33 Oloth-Looking, or Examining. In Englfind the pieces are brought into the warehouse of the mill by the weavers, and are hooked in folds of one yard. This operation is performed on the hooking or plaiting machine. In some concerns the looking is done on this machine. Probably the cost is lessened, and the ontlooker sees the whole of the piece (not missing one side of the "flue," as it not infrequently happens in the counter-looking), but the fact that the smaller faults are not all seen renders the advantages question- able, unless the cloth is afterwards counter-looked. The cloth-looker's duty is to examine each piece of cloth, reporting any fault to the person responsible, and throwing out as seconds the pieces which are not up to the quality Faults in Cotton Oloth. Bare, badly-covered cloth is caused by the back rest of the loom being too low, the shed too large, late treading and picking, too much weight or uneven sheds. Cockly cloth looks raw, and has raised lumps on the face, caused by too little weight. Cracks are sometimes weavers' faults, in not letting back after weft breaking, take up motion working unequally, or through some parts not being screwed up tightly. Uneven cloth is generally attributable to the weft, although anything tending to unequal release of the warp from the beam, such as weights touching the floor, damp ropes or loose pivots, cause it. Reedy cloth is caused when a few dents of the reed are bent out of position. Bad sides are either slattered, caused by unsatisfac- tory bottoming, or are frayed or raw from lack of suf- ficient side ends. Occasionally a bad picker catches the weft and causes a peculiar ridgy selvage. Floats are the result of obstruction in the shed gener- ally, broken twist keeping down the warp threads and preventing their interweaving with the weft. Mashes are on a larger scale. If the shuttle is en- trapped without the reed flying out, in loose reed looms, or the protector acting in fast reeds, the twist is gener- ally broken out for several inches in the width. Broken picks are caused by several layers of weft coming off" the cop into one shed. 34 Classification of Cotton Cloth. Woven fabrics of any material may be divided into four main classes, says Prof. Brooks: "Plain, figured, gauze, and woven pile cloths; laces formed on an en- tirely different stnicture being disregarded. "Plains show no figure of any nature on the face of the cloth, have every end and pick interwoven alter- nately, while the warp forms a right angle with the weft. Apparent figures, ribs and stripes may be made by using fine and coarse weft or alternate counts of warp. Stripes or checks of color may be introduced, but if the weave be unaltered the cloth is still classed as plain. "Figured is a very comprehensive group, consisting of the twills, sateens, velveteens, figured borders, figured checks, damasks, brocades, dimity, w«ft pile, counter- panes, fustians, cords, etc., and almost all fancy cloths, except gauze and warp pile. " Gauze has a peculiar structure, pure gauze differing from plain cloth in the ends, weaving at an angle more acute than a right angle. Leno is one kind of gauze. "Woven or warp pile cloth has a nap woven on the face, and cut whilst in the loom — a class of cloth not frequently met with in cotton, but generally in the silk and carpet trades." Where 25 Per Cent, of our Brown Cottons are Made. A reliable authority states that 25 per cent, of the brown cotton goods manufactured in the United States are made in Georgia, within a radius of ten miles of Au- gusta, where there are thirteen plants or mills operating 179,236 spindles, 5,883 looms, and furnishing employ- ment to 4,320 hands, to whom is paid in salaries annually $991,039.96. The amount of capital employed in these mills is $8,755,000; 75,224 bales of cotton are cousunied iinuually, and the value of their combined production IS $5,444,823. During the year 1888 the number of spindles was in- creased by 17,840 and 47G looms, and these, togethei- with other improvements, caused a further investment of capital to the extent of $286,500. Old Time Spinning Wheel. Two kinds of household spinning wheels are said to have been used from time immemorial. The first is commonly called in this country the " big wheel," from the magnitude of its rim, or the "wool wheel," from its being employed in spinning sheep's wool. It was well adapted to spin cotton, from the analagous form of its filaments, which it did in two independent operations. At first the spongy cylinder turned off from the hand card was drawn out and slightly twisted into a porous cord, called a roving ; at the second, this cord was stretched and twisted into a fine cohesive thread; in either case the spinster, having fixed round the spindle the extremity of the carding or roving, seized it a few inches from the end with the finger and thumb of the left hand, and, while she turned round the wheel with the right, so as to make the spindle revolve, she piogressively extended the cotton cord by drawing her hand from near the spindle to the position in which it is placed as represented in the above cut. 36 She now completed tlie torsion of the cotton by turning the wheel till the thread had acquired the desired degree of twist, and then, by a slow counter rotation of the wheel and proper giving-in of the left liand. she wound up the thread upon the spindle into a conical shape, called pira or cop. This is the ancient spinning implement of Hindostan. The first mechani- cal invention regularly employed in England was con- structed upon this principle; several spindles — at first eight, afterwards eighty — being made to whirl by one fly-wheel, while a movable frame, representing so many fingers and thumbs as there were threads, alternately receded from the spindles during the extension of the thread, and approached to them in its winding on. Hindoo Woman Spinning Cotton Yarn. The above illustration represents a Hindoo woman spinning cotton yarn on the primitive spinning wheel of India. In that country women of all castes prepare the cotton thread for the weaver, spinning the thread on a piece of wire, or a very thin rod of polished iron, with a ball of clay at one end; this they turn round with the left hand, and supply the cotton with the right; the thread is then wound upon a stick or pole, and sold to the merchants or weavers; for the coarser thread the women make use of a wheel very similar to that used by our grandmothers. 37 Manufacture of Cotton Cords, Fustians, etc. Cotton cords, moleskins, corduroy, fustians, bull- hides, thicksets, made in England, are all jjile fabrics of a heavy character. The pile is all in the weft, floating upon a ground cloth. Different makes of each fabric are woven and named frequently according to the style of the- ground or backing weave, e. .g, tabby back means plain, Genoa is a4-end twill, Jeanette is a 3-end twill, double Genoa, double Jeanette. The cords show a broad wale or stripe running lengthwise of the piece, consisting of weft floating over the warp and ground cloth, and in such a manner that when slit along the centre of each stripe the divided threads stand up to form a cord. The weft of the next wale being cut simi- larly, a stripe of pile fabrics is now formed, having its centre above the groove which divided each stripe of uncut yarn. A rounded effect is given to these cords by having the threads forming the centre of greater lengths than the sides of the cord, they having had a longer float in the weaving. This cloth is dyed and finished, being sold as corduroy. ^i»i The Original G-ingham. Gingham was originally introduced with its present name from India, and in the early days was more or less largely imported into Europe. At first the India ginghams consisted of cotton cloths, with two or more colors arranged as a small checkered pattern. Now a great variety are formed of this material, and in the case of umbrella ginghams, the whole piece is woven with yarn of one color. In England ginghams are known by the following names: Plain, common light grounds; plain, common dark grounds; Earlston ginghams, power loom seersuckers and checks, colored diapers, cross- over stripe, derries, Hungarians, jean stripes and um- brella ginghams, American ginghams include staples, fancy staples, fancies, cords, crinkle seersuckers, novel- ties, light and dark dress styles, zephyrs, indigoes, bourettes, and also the particular names or brands of the different makes, such as Amoskeag, Abbotsford, Arlington, Bates, Johnson, Lancaster, Manchester, Park Mills, Plunkett, Renfrew, Slatersvllle, Westbrook, White Manufacturing Co., Whittenton, York, etc. 38 Manufacture of Cotton Counterpanes and Quilts. The Jacquard loom is largely used in the counterpane and quilt industry. Marseilles and toilet quilts, with which may be associated the well known toilet cloths, on the double-cloth principle, present a good face of plain weave in fine yarns, being embossed, as it were, in the cloth by additional warp threads. This backing weft sometimes floats outside the cloth, sometimes is bound inside just below the plain face, and at other parts the whole of the yarn is firmly united. Where the backing is brought inside, the top cloth is raised up, while at those places where all the ends are woven to- gether a depression is caused. Large embossed figures may thus be shown on the cloth, although it appears to have an unbroken surface. A coarser quality is made where both face and back wefts are coarse and from the same cop. Perched quiltings are in this style, but the figures are small, diamond-shaped and irregular. The honeycomb quilt, as its name implies, is a cloth with the figures on its surface formed by raised ridges, both warp and weft way. This is generally woven in bleached knitting cottons two or threefold, and as with this weave others may be combined and stripes of colored worsted in- serted, great scope is given to the designer. A Grecian quilt is woven in bleached knitting cottons, and j'^et the coarse threads give a smooth, glossy surface in conse- quence of the weave being on the damask principle — i. e., the figure may be formed in a weft satin while the ground is a warp satin. The Alhambra quilts are fig- ured in various designs and woven with vari-colored yarns. Cost of Heavy Cottons. ' A writer of some experience says the expense of the Eastern cotton mills for coarse goods, such as common heavy sheetings, may be estimated as follows: Cents. Middling cottons, delivered 13 . 40 Waste 1 .48 Labor 3 . 80 General Expenses 2 . 08 Total 20 . 88 2.80 yards cloth to one pound of Cotton would equal 7.45 cents per yard. 39 Nainsooks, Cambrics and Percaierj for Underwear. Many American women now use French nainsooks, linen cambric and percales for underwear. There is less of imported cambric used than formerlj^ owing to the superiority of our own domestic cambrics. The Wamsutta, Lonsdale, and especially tlie Berkeley mills all make cambrics which rival the best imported goods, and are sold at less than one-half. Madapolam is a heavy quality of percale which sells at about twenty-five cents per yard, retail, and is especially recommended as durable goods for underwear. Nearly all stores now keep Hamburgs worked on madapolams, for use on garments made of this material. These embroidered bands are finished without dressing, and are far superior to all Hamburgs, even French Hamburg, which has been con- sidered the best of all. Unfortunately, they are sold only in four and a-half yard lengths, in all widths — a length which does not always cut to advantage. Cotton Terry Cloth. A pile fabric of cotton which has attracted great attention during the last few years is the Turkish or Terry towel. This is woven with two beams, one for the loop pile, and the other carrying the ground warp, which is always kept tight. After two picks have been inserted and tightly beaten up, the reed is allowed to fly loose by a peculiar arrangement, and both warps being kept tight, two picks are put in without beating up. Then the reed is fastened, the loop warp slackened, and on the next pick being beaten up, the two previous ones are also driven home, and with them the loop warp, which stood between the fell and the two neglected picks, thus forms loops on both sides of the cloth. This weave is not confined to the making of fabrics with an unbroken pile surface, but is adopted in stripes for bath towels and wraps, in check and even figures for quilts, combined with color in other effects, and also woven alternately in some special cloth with entirely different patterns. The headings, also for the towels, are of a firmer weave and afford great scope for ornamentation. 40 The Cotton Gin. Dr. Ure gives the following description of the cotton gin: "The principal parts of the saw-gin are two cylinders of different diameters (see F H, Figs. 1 and 2) mounted in a strong wooden frame (A), which are turned by means of a pulley and belt, acting upon the axis of a fly wheel attached to the end of the shaft opposite to that seen in the section of figure 1. Its endless band turns a large pulley upon the end (D) of the saw cylinder (F) iind a smaller pulley on the end (E) of the brush cylinder (H, Fig. 2), so as to make the latter revolve with greater rapidity. Upon the wooden cylinder (F), ten inches in diameter, are mounted three-quarters of an inch apart, fifty, sixty, or even eighty circular saws, edged as at 1, figure 1, of one foot diameter, which fit very exactly into grooves cut one inch deep into the cylinder. FIG. 1. — SECTION OF WHITNEY'S SAW-GIN. "Each saw consists of two segments of a circle, and is preferably made of hammered sheet iron. Opposite to the interstices of the saws are flat bars of iron, which form a parallel grid of such a curvature that the shoul- der of the slanting sawtooth passes first and then the p^int." 41 "The hollow cylinder, H, is mounted with the brushes c, c, c, the tips of whose bristles touch the saw-teeth, as at d, d, fig. 2, and thus sweep off the adhering cotton. The cylinder H revolves in an opposite direction to the cylinder F, as is indicated by the arrows in fig. 1. "The seed cotton, as picked from the pods, is thrown into the hopper, L, fig. 1; the disc-saws, I, in turning round encounter the cotton filaments resting against the grid, ciitch them with their sharp teeth, and drag tliem inwards and upwards, while the stripped seeds, too large to pass between the bars, fall through the bot- tom, N, of the hopper, upon the inclined board, M. The size of the aperture, N, is regulated at pleasure by an adjusting screw to suit the size of the particular spe- cies of seeds. The saw-teeth, filled with cotton, after returning through the grid, meet the brushes c, c, c, of the cylinder H, and deliver it up to them." PIG. 2.— PLAN OF SAW BRUSH AND CYLINDER OF WHITNEY SAW-GIN. "The cotton is thereafter whisked down upon the sloping table, 0, and thence falls into the receptacle, P. A cover, Q, fig. 1, encloses both the cylinders and the hopper; this cover is turned up round its hinges (as shown in fig. 1) in order to introduce the charge of seed cotton into the machine, and is then let down be- fore setting the wheels in gear with the driving power. The axes, e, e, f, f, of these cylinders (fig. 2) are well fitted into their plummer box-bearings, so as to pre- vent any lateral swagging, which would greatly injure their operation. The raised position of the cover is obvious in fig. 1, the hinges being placed at B." 42 Decline in the Demand for Oottonades. The reason why eottonades have lost their former popularity, according to a manufacturer's authority, is found in the very great improvement in the manu- facture of woolen goods, and the constantly declining prices at which they are sold. The improvement in woolen manufactures was succeeded by the production of stylish cotton cassimeres by the cottonade mills, many of which to-day do not make a piece of the old fabric except in small quantities for special orders. Several of the once prominent cottonade makers are even scarcely remembered. The decline in the demand for oottonades is one of the many things to be noted in the period covered, but as a specialty for men's clothing the decrease in the production of this article has been wonderful. Naturally and Artificially Colored Nankeen Olotli. Cotton cloth of the kind called "nankeen," or naked, was formerly extensively exported from China to Europe and this country, and was said to be the manufacture of Nanking, the color, a yellowish buff, being the favorite one. It was supposed that the Chinese held the secret for dyeing this color, which was found to be remarkably endurable, but it became known that it was not an artifi- cial color at all, the cloth being made of a colored variety of cotton, which was produced occasionally in China and India. Artificially dyed nankeen cloths now form a con- siderable export from Eugland to China. The color of artificial nankeen cloth is produced by an elaborate process, in which the yarn or cloth is first dipped in a saturated solution of alum, then in a bath of lime water, and next in a bath of nitro-muriate of tin. Another, but less permanent, nankeen dye is produced by boiling annatto in a strong solution of pearl ashes and diluting with water to the required tint. Buying Cotton for Future Delivery. Cotton bought for future delivery is purchased on the basis of the price for middling cotton, that is, the terms of the sale apply to middling cotton, but the seller has tlie option of delivering higher or lower grade cotton when the time agreed upon arrives, adding or subtract- ing from the basis of the contract, the current difference in price between middling and the grade he delivers. The purchaser does not necessarily buy middling cot- ton, but a certain number of bales of cotton on a basis of such a price for middling. 43 Origin of the Manufacture of Thread. The use of the spinning wheel, which is an improved method of twisting the thread, was introduced into England in the time of Henry VIII., from India, where it had long been in use. The modern application of machinery to spinning thread began in England in 1767 by James Hargreaves' invention of the spinning jenny. This was improved upon by Eichard Arkwright, and in 1779 by Samuel Crompton, of Bolton, England. The latter completed a machine which combined the jenny of Hargreaves and the roller of Arkwright, which was called a mule jenny, or now more generally known as the mule. In this country spinning has been a very im- portant industry from a very early date. At first it was necessarily a domestic industry, and the spinning wheel was an indispensable utensil in every household. The first sewing thread ever made of cotton was produced at Pawtucket, 11, I., in 1794. Prior to this time flax had bf en the material used in this manufacture. The idea of using cotton is said to have been suggested by Mrs. Samuel Slater, the wife of the pioneer of the cotton in- dustry of this country. With the introduction of ma- chine-made thread the development has been very rapid. Numbers of Thread. When 840 yards of yarn weigh 7,000 grains, a pound of cotton, the yarn is No. 1. If 1,680 yards weigh a pound it will be No. 2 yarn. For No. 50 yarn it would take fifty multiplied by 840 yards to weigh a pound. This is the whole of the yarn measurement. The early manufactured thread was three-cord, and thread took its number from the number of the yarn from which it was made. No. 60 yarn made No. 60-thread, though, in point of fact, the actual calibre of No. 60 thread would equal No. 20 yarn, being three 60 strands. When the sewing machine came into the market as the great consumer, six-cord cotton had to be made as a smoother product. As thread numbers were already established, they were not altered for the new article, and No 60 six- cord and No. 60 three-cord are identi- cal in size as well as in number. To effect this the six- cord has to be made of yarn twice as fine as that de- manded by the three-cord. The No, 60 six-cord would be six strands of No. 120 yarn. The three-cord spool cotton is the same number as the yarn it is made of. Six-cord spool cotton is made of yarn that is double its number. u How Spool Cotton is Made. Few people ever stop to think of the twistings and turnings and thb various processes that cotton fibre goes through after it is taken from the pod before it is wound upon a spool and ready for the housewife's needle. The Sea Island cotton is used for thread on account of the length of the fibre. The first thing that is done with the cotton is to subject it to the " picker " process, by which the cotton from several bales is mixed to secure uniformity. During the picker process much waste, in i;he form of dust, dirt and short fibres, is sep- arated from the good ftbres by the picker. Next the picked cotton is wound on a machine, in sheets or laps, into a roll. The next process is the carding, by which the sheets of Qotton are combed or run out into long parallel fibres. The cotton is next seen drawn through a trum- pet-shaped opening, which condenses it into a single thread or sliver. Then eight such slivers are run to- gether into one, six of the strands thus produced are drawn into one, and again six of the strands from the last drawing are combined into one. Then comes the slubbing or fast "roving" process, whic^h consists of widening the strand and bobbin. Two strands are twisted and again wound on a bobbin. After a number of other twistings and windings, during which the strand is gradually reduced in size until it begins to assume a thread-like appearance, two strands of this fine "roving" are run togeUier and twisted, under considerable tension, on a bobbin that makes 7,000 revolutions a minute. Two of the cords thus pro- duced are then wound together on a spool, and then twisted from that spool to another, and then three threads of two cords each are twisted together, form- ing six-cord thread. One who has followed the process sees the cotton gradually transformed from a wide band or sheet of loose cotton to a thread that will pass through the eye of a needle. The six-cord thread is at last taken from bobbin and reeled into a skein, in which form it is bleached or dyed. Then it is wound back from the skein upon a big spool, from which it is supplied to little white birch spools, upon which it is wound in regular courses, and is then ready for t he market. The machine that regulates the last winding measures the number of yards wound on eaoh spool. The spools are made of various sizes, to nold from 200 to 12,000 yards of thread- The labels that decorate the ends of the spools when they are sold are last put on. They are cut and pasted on by machinery with great rapidity. 45 -;^^>^ Hindoo Cotton Weaver at his Loom. The Hindoo loom consists of two bamboo rollers— one for the warp and another for the woven cloth— and a j)air of heddles for parting the warp in the decussation of the woof. The shuttle performs the double office of shuttle and lay for driving home the parallel yarns. The Tani^/ (weaver) carries this rude apparatus to any tree which may afford a comfortable shade. There lie digs a hole large enough to receive his legs and the lower part of the gear or treadles; he then stretches his warp by fastening his twp bamboo rollers at a proper distance from each other with pins into the turf; the treadles he fastens to some convenient branch of the tree overhead; he inserts his great toes into two loops under the gear to serve him for treadles; he finally sheds the warp, draws the weft, and afterwards strikes it up close to the weft with his long shuttle, which thus performs the office of a bobbin. 4G Oonsumption of Ootton Goods. The world, it is estimated, uses probably about 12,000,000 bales of cotton of 480 pounds, commercial weight, annually. The yearly consumption of cotton goods in the United States is stated to average about fifteen pounds per capita, and of the entire world over three and under four pounds per capita. The portion of the world's cotton product, worked on modern ma- chinery, does not exceed 7,000 000 bales. Of the whole force of labor engaged in specific cotton manufactures in this country — numbering in 1880, 172,000 — about 160,000 were employed in making woven goods and yarns for our home consumption. It is also calculated that it would take 16,000,000 persons to make the same number of yarns by hand that these 172,000 turned out through the use of improved machinerj'. Calculating the present average pejXacre, the cotton of the world could be produced on //ess than 25,000,000 acres. Our export trade of cottoj/ fabrics takes about seven to eight per cent, of our annual manufactured product. ^ Consumption of Twine. Few persons have an idea of the enormous consump- tion of twine in this country. One of the greatest demands for the article comes from the farmers, who consume 35,000 tons annually upon self - binding harvesters. AUowiug five pounds to the mile, this would be equal to a string long enough to go more than six times around the earth. It takes a length of about three feet of twine to tie a bundle of straw. The farmer sits on his machine, drives alone through his grain field, and without any assistance cuts, bundles and ties twelve acres of wheat grain per day. Mill-Brands of Britisli Cottons. Few cottons in England are known by the name of the factory which produced them. The yarn is mostly spun in one establishment, woven in another, and fin- ished in a third. In this country the yarns are sj^un and the goods woven usually in the same factory, and the cloth, whether sold in the gray or bleached, is marketed under the name of the factory in which it is mad,e. This also applies to calicoes. 47 Our Cotton Goods Trade Forty Years Ago. About forty years ago the dry goods commission •bouses were mostly centred in Boston for the sale of domestic cottons mainly, such as brown and bleached shirtings and sheetings, prints, ticking, etc. In Philadel- phia they manufactured .what was called "blue goods," which included checks, denims, stripes, etc. The general trade of the country were then obliged to make visits to the two markets — Boston and Philadelphia — to obtain their supplies of cottons. They had to go to Boston to buy their brown and bleached sheetings and shirtings and printed goods, mostly calicoes. They returned to New York and bought their imported goods, and then went to Philadelphia on their way home, and bought their lines of checks, denims, stripes, ticks, etc. It was then suggested, for the convenience of country merchants, that the commission houses doing business in Boston and Philadelphia should send agents or open branches in New York City. At first the Boston mer- chants, who were the agents of the Eastern mills, op- posed the project, and only a few of them could be induced to open small offices in New York. But it was soon discovered that in the small offices opened in New York a larger business was transacted in the same given time than was done by the parent houses in the East, and so one house after another, and mill after mill, opened agencies in New York for the sale of the goods which they represented or manufactured, and the business soon developed into very extensive proportions. The prices of nearly all kinds of textiles in those early days were much higher than they are now. No good American calico could be procured for less than 12J cents a yard, and some of it even at that price was often found to be steam colors instead of being printed with madder. The best and choicest foreign calicoes brought from 20 to 30 cents a yard, and even higher prices. English Cotton Blankets and Cotton Flannels. In England there is a heavy cloth woven from coarse (waste) yarns named cotton blankets and cotton flannels. This fabric passes through a razing machine in which its surface is scratched by pointed steel teeth. It is largely exported. 48 Cotton and Hemp Twine and Shoe Thread. It is estimated that there are about $8,000,000 worth of flax and hemp strings made in this country every year, not the big sorts, such as lines, ropes, cables and hawsers, but just such strings as are lumped together under the broad name of twines. And, besides, there are great quantities of cotton strings, and here and there still a few paper ones, though the latter — invented when cotton was high priced during the war, and then quite common — are now seldom seen. There are eight twin6 factories in the country: three in the upper part of New York, two in Masachusetts, two in New Jersey, and one (the largest) in New York city. The latter employs 800 hands, and turns out li.OOO pounds per diem of finished twines and shoe thread, ranging in value from 14c. to $1.50 per pound. In addition to these eight, there are scattered through the Eastern States several small establishments, but there is none, large or small, in the West or South. dost of Operating Sonthern and Northern Cotton Mills. Comparison of the cost of running a weaving room of 500 looms in the South and 500 looms on the same class of goods in Philadelphia, Pa., is given as follows : Southern Mill: 500 looms; overseer, $18- per week; sec- ond hand, $12 per week ; 10 fixers, $90 ; 4 filling boys, $12 per week ; 2 sweepers, $8 per week ; total, $140. Production of Southern weaving room, 156,250 yards of domestic checks, 42 picks to the inch, weight about 5 yards to the pound; warp and filling about number 15 at 50 yards to the cut give 3,125 cuts at 30c. per cut, $937.50. This is a trifle over 50 yards per day. Some Southern mills will run close up to 60. Running ex- penses South, $140; weavers' pay South, $937,50; total, $1,077. Philadelphia Mill: 500 looms; overseer, $18 per week; 7 loom fixers at $15 per week, amounting to $105 ; filling boys, $12; total, $135; second hands are unknown in Philadelphia mills. Production per week of domestic checks, 500 looms ; 42 yards per daj^ each loom 126,000 yards, divide by 50 yards for each cut, $1,512 ; running expenses per week, $135; total, $1,647,- > - 49 Hand Loom. The following represents the hand loom in its simplest form: A A is the frame of the loom, and is of no other use than to hold the working parts in their proper position. At each end of the frame two rollers are placed, B C, so that they will readily turn on their axis; and from one to the other the threads of the warp are attached, and kept tight by the weights h b. The warp threads are wound around the roller B, which is called the beam or yarn-roll, only as much of each thread being left unwound as will reach the other roller, C, which is the cloth-heam, to which the ends are fastened, and upon which the cloth is wound as- it is woven. The next step is to divide the warp thread into two equal sets by raising up every alternate one, and inserting between a smooth rod of wood to prevent them entangling or returning to their former position. This separation takes place before the final fixing of the ends of the threads to the cloth-beam, because, previous to that, each thread must be passed through a small loop in a perpendicular thread called the heald. The united action of the two healds opens the space between the two sets of warp threads, and this space is called the shed, and through it is thrown the shuttle, a small boat-like instrument which carries the thread of the imft. The harness in a loom is that portion of the ap- paratus by which the warp threads are moved to make the decussation. 50 Cotton Warp Yarn. Warp 3'arn is generally stronger than weft, and the hardness is generally obtained by extra twisting of the thread. Owing to this peculiarity, warp yarn is gen- erally called "twist." For heavy sizing purposes a soft spun twist is advisable, and one made out of the harder and wiry stapled cottons. The spongy and size-absorb- ent properties are obtained at the expense of the strength of the yarn, and therefore a good sizing twist often winds badly. The color of the warp yarn is not im- portant, and therefore whiter cottons are reserved for weft. Fine twists are spun out of longer and finer cot- tons, forming a close thread, which is used for better classes of cloth lightly sized. Strength and elasticity are great advantages in twist, and these properties should be obtained and preserved for the last process of weaving. Cotton Skips and Cops. In England cotton warp yarn is generally received by the manufacturers from the spinners in skips of 200 to 250 pounds weight, and in the form of a cop. This has a cylindrical formation, coned at each end, the more pointed end, on which the yarn is wound, being called the nose, and the opposite end the cop bottom. The best spinners make the cop about 7^ inches long and 1^ inches in diameter. In each twist of the yarn preference is given to the most even thread, round and free from motes, knotty places and snarls; the latter is recognized by slack ends at the mule, tortion of the thread taking up the loose yarn in the form of a twisted cop. A similar efifect, called a " snick," is caused by loose ends and inferior traverses at the winding frame, but wherever caused the fault is most annoying to the weaver, and deteriorative to the weft which is intended for printing, as the loops arise after the weft has re- ceived the impression of the pattern, showing white specks of an objectionable character. The twisted cop should be of full dimensions, firm and hard, cop free from loose ends, and being clear from apertures at the bottom of the winder's skewer. Any fault in this respect causes an increased percentage of waste most objection- able to manufacturers. 51 Cotton Yarn Calculations. The fineness of cotton yarns is indicated by the counts (otherwise numbers or grist). The counts refer to the number of hanks in the pound, avoirdupois. "A cotton hank is always 840 yards, and, therefore, if we speak of 10s, we refer to yarn of which 10 hanks, or 8,400, weigh one pound; or, in referring to 36, of that which 36x840, or 30,240, weigh one pound. This applies to either twist or weft. The cotton yarn measure is: 120 yards equal 1 lea; 7 leas, or 840 yards, equal 1 hank; and the cotton yarn weight is peculiar, being an avoir- dupois pound divided into pennyweights and ounces, as in Troy weight: 24 grains equal 1 pennyweight; 437A grains equal 18 11-48 pennyweights, equal one ounce; 7,000 grains equal 16 ounces, equal 1 pound; Is are taken as a standard with 840 yards in 7,000 grains, and a higher count means finer yarn; then 840 yards of say 2s would weigh 35,000 grains, or 70s would weigh 100 grains. " If we measure a hank of yarn and find that it weighs 100 grains, then 7,000 divided by 100 gives the counts. It is convenient in wrapping yarn to measure 840 yards; therefore a lea of yards is taken as the standard length for Is, and also the proportionate weight equal to 1,000 ■grains. The wrapping roll is 1| yards in circumler- ence, and by revolving eighty times we can wind 120 yards from a cop placed in the machine. Suppose this lea of 120 yards weighs 25 grains, then l,000-25s equal 40s. Should less than a lea be taken, say 60 yards, the 500 grains must be the dividend. Generally the grade to obtain the counts of any yarn, 120 yards are weighed. "In French, the cotton standard is 1,000 metres in 500 grammes— equivalent to 992.4 yards in 1 pound. Thus 1.181s in English would be Is in French. To transfer cotton measure to any other, take the cotton count and equivalent inversely to the cotton in the hanks." . ^ t» — — Only Two Ways of Producing a Heavy Pabric. A well-known cotton goods manufacturer says that to produce a heavy fabric there are only two ways of doing it— either the use of thick, bulky threads or the use of an increased number of fine ones. "If we use bulky threads our fabric must present an appearance of coarse- ness, no matter what may be the order of interweaving, and we have no possible means of reducing the coarse- ness. If we use fine threads it is more than likely that the order of interweaving will prevent the introduction of as many threads as will produce the weight of fabric we desire." 52 Difference Between Mule and Throstle Twist. Mule twist is used for weaving muslins and the finest kinds of cotton goods. The essential difference between this and water-twist is, that the mule produces much finer articles than can possibly be made upon throstles, at the same time making a softer thread. As it re- quires much less power to run the same number of mule spindles than throstles, the manufacturer spins every kind of j^arn which he can upon the mule; but it will produce only the softest kinds of thread. It will spin all numbers, from the lowest up to 300 hanks to the pound. The yarn spun upon the throstle has its fibre closer twisted than that spun upon the mule, and is more es- teemed for certain purposes, especially for making thread, than the latter. Throstle yarn is stronger and more even than mule yarn, and better adapted for warps; but the range of throstles is limited, and the coiints seldom exceed 4:0's, though throstles are made capable of spinning yarns up to 80's or lOO's. The reason is that the fine thread has not strength to stand the " drag " required to wind the yarn on the bobbin. The mule, on the other hand, will spin both twist and weft, and as high as No. lOO's, or more, while still finer numbers can be spun by hand mules. Mule yarn is softer and more woolly in texture than throstle yarn, which arises from the vibration of the thread as the carriage is drawn out from the rollers. Comparative Strength of Cotton Mule Twist. The following table, prepared by an English expert, will give a general idea of the comparative strength of mule twists having for American cotton the standard turns in — i. e., square root of counts multiplied by 3| : 20's American Cotton equal 80 pounds. 30's '« " " 54 40's ♦• '•' " 40 40's Egyptian " " 50 50's American " " 28 " 50's Egyptian " " 37 GO'S ' " " " 30 70's " *' " 3G *' In yarn diameters of the threads do not vary inversely as the counts, but inversely as a square root of the counts. 53 Carding, Drawing and Eoving. The accompanying cut gives a more or less graphic illustration of the operations of the carding, drawing iiud roving of cotton. The carding engine derives its name from the cards by which its functions are fulfilled. Each fibre of cot- ton is more or less twisted around those near it, and the object of the carding process is to separate these fibres and to lay them all in parallel directions, because if this were not done the yarn produced would be uneven and knotty. The sliver or long ribbon of cotton produced from the carding machine has to undergo the process of " drawing," that is, it must be made of an even thick- ness throughout, and its width diminished. This is effected by the drawing frame. The sliver thus pro- duced is next converted into " roving." This is effected by giving a moderate amount of twist to the cotton to form a yarn of about the thickness of an ordinary lead pencil. The next process is spinning. On the right of the above plate the roving frame is shown, with the carding and drawing machines on the left. The above cut represents machinery in use in some of our older cotton mills, modern fixtiires being lighter, more com- plex and automatic. 64 Bundling Cotton Tarn. In order that cotton banks may J^be conveniently packed for sending to market, tliey are squeezed into a bundling -press. All hanks are the same length, 840 yards ; all are weighed by the same unit of weight, 1 lb. ; and the number attached to each kind denotes the number of hanks of that kind which go to a pound. Usually about ten pounds, of whatever number or fineness, are pressed together to form a bundle ; and from thirty to forty of these bundles are pressed together into a bale, which then weighs from 300 to 500 lbs. Sizing or Dressing Cotton. Cotton is never woven in its natural state. It always receives a dressing or coating of some kind of liquid size, which is allowed to dry before the weaving begins. The object is to diminish the roughness on the fibrous surface of the yarns, and thereby facilitate the weaving. The yarns from several rollers are unwound and made to pass through a vessel of hot liquid size, and then be- tween rollers, which squeeze the glutinous composition into the very heart of the thread. Thence the yarns pass over drying cylinders, made of sheet iron or copper, heated within by steam pipes. This quickly dries the size, and prepares the yarn to be wound upon the loeaver's beam, a roller which receives uniform layers from end to end. ^»» Tenison of Cotton Fibres. The average length of staple Sea Island cocton is nearly two inches, v^hile that of Surat is but a litile over one inch. The tension strength of this cotton Is, however, much inferior to that of many other cloths, breaking with 83 grains, while Pernambuco and Surat stand a weight of 140 grains. It is said that the amount of twisting in cotton thread is a very important element in the establishment of its strength, and that the Dacca muslins of India, owe a large part of their superiority in lightness and strength to the lightness of the twist of the delicate film of which they are composed. Ac- cording to Dr. Watson, the average number of twists in the French muslin is 68 ; in the English, 56 ; in the Dacca they amount to 110. Somoideaof the lightness of this Dacca muslin may be inferred from the fact that a piece of it, one yard wide and ten yards long, weighs only a little over three ouncis. 65 Displacement of LalDor in the Ootton Q-oods Industry by Machinery, The cotton goods industry of the United States offers perhaps as striking an illustration as any of the appar- ent displacement of labor by machinery. With a hand- loom a weaver used to weave from 60 to 80 picks per minute in weaving cotton cloth of good quality, with twenty threads of twist to each one -quarter square inch. A power loom now weaves 180 picks per minute of the same kind of cloth. Even in power machinery, a weaver formerly tended but one loom. Now, one weaver minds all the way from two to ten power looms, according to the grade of goods. The ratio of cost per pound for labor of common cotton cloth for the years 1828 and 1880 was as 6.77 to 3.31, wages for the same dates being as 2.62 to 4.84. The average consumption of cotton, which indicates the standard of life as well as any one item, was per capita of total population for the year 1831, 5.90 pounds, while in 1880, the con- sumption rose to 13.91 pounds, this being exclusive of exports. In Great Britian in 1833 the consumption, exclusive of exports, was 6.62 pounds per capita, and in 1880, 7.75 pounds. Working time has been de- creased on an average 12 per cent. Common Ootton Fabrics of the World Compared. The common cotton fabrics of England, Belgium and Germany could now hardly be sold in the United States at any price. French cottons, however, are better. The calicoes produced in the United States for the masses are better, finer in color, and more varied in style than those made in Europe. In this country, the sizing up on the warp, in order to weave it, is made from corn or potato starch, which contributes about 2 1-2 to 5 per cent, of the weight in the gray color. In England, pure sizing is made of wheat flour. One hundred pounds there has been known to be used to one hundred pounds of cotton. Sizing is intended to lose 10 to 12 per cent, of weight on first washing. English cotton fabrics exported or used by the working classes at home are generally loaded with 10 to 40 per cent, clay and other substances. 56 Mills in United States Making Brown, Bleached and Oolored Cottons. On a more or less close calculation it is estimated that there are about the following number of mills engaged directly and indirectly in the production of brown, bleached and colored cottons, print cloths and prints in the United States : Mills making brown and bleached cottons 125 Mills making brown, bleached and colored cottons. . 150 Mills making colored cottons 250 Mills making print cloths 70 Mills making prints 15 The above, if added together, would make 610 estab- lishments, but the number is not so large as that, for the reason that many of the same make in varying quantity all the different classes of cottons describe. 3, while others are devoted exclusively to specific manu- factures, such as brown and bleached sheetings and shirtings, or brown, bleached and colored cot toes, or print cloths, or prints, and are necessarily contained within each respective classification. However, the above exhibit shows one thing, that all the various reg- ular and standard tickets, as well as fancy brands of brown, bleached and colored woven cottons made in this country, are produced by these factories, and that the names of the same have been so multiplied in num- ber and variety within the past few years that they now extend well into the thousands in number. While diversification of kind, quality and style of our domestic cotton fabrics is steadily and rapidly enlarg- ing, it is a question whether they will keep pace in this direction with the increase in the variety of the fancy names given to them. As an illustration : one make of brown, bleached or colored cottons that has a standard reputation will not only be maintained and sold under its own original and regular ticket, but to satisfy the caprices -or contingencies of the trade in various parts of the country, will have probably a dozen different fancy names that bear no relation whatever to the original cognomen. This is due to the keen and close competition on the part of both the jobbing and the re- tail trades, which reduces sometimes the profits of both to such a low ebb, that they cannot afford to carry the goods unless they have eome protection or compensa- tion in the way of fancy tick(ts that are not strictly competitive 60 far as brand is concerned. 57 Tlie Mule-Jeiiny. The above gives the front and side views of the mule- jenny. For the spinning of fine cotton yarns this machine is generally used. The bobbins containing the cotton "^rovings are placed on a fixed frame; the spindles by which these rovings are to be twisted into yarn are on a movable frame; the movable frame, by traveling four or five feet outward, then an equal dis- tance backward, and so on alternately, stretches and attenuates the threads. The two sets of operatiotis, elongating and spinning, succeed each other with ex- quisite regularity; 600 or 700 threads, all arranged par- allel, being managed by self-regulating mechanism. Mule-yarn, as it is technically called, being twisted more softly and carefully than throstle-yarn, is suitable for the weft, or cross-threads of coarse goods, and for both warp and weft of fine goods. ^^^ Horse Power for Propelling Cotton Spinning Machinery. Baird gives the following illustration of a horse-power in cotton spinning: A one horse-power is calculated to drive, at an average speed, 100 throstle spindles, on No. 25 cotton-yarn twist, including the necessary preparation. A one horse-power will drive 250 mule spindles, with preparation, on No. 25 yarn filling. A one horse-power will drive 500 mule spindles, with preparation, on No. 60 yarn filling, and for intermediate numbers in proportion. A one horse-power will drive 12 power-looms, with warping, sizing, etc. 58 U. S. Import Duties on Strictly Cotton Goods. According to the tariff act of March 3, 1883, the follow- ing are the import duties on strictly cotton goods : UNBLEACHED COTTONS. Not over 100 threads to square inch, value not over 8c. per square yard, 2|c. per square yard. Not over 100 threads to square inch, value over 8c. per square yard, 40 per cent. Over 100, not over 200, threads to square inch, value not over 8c. per square yard, 3c. per square yard. Over 100, not over 200, threads to square inch, value over 8c. per square yard, 40 per cent. • Over 200 threads to square inch, value not over 10c. per square yard, 4c. per square yard. Over 200 threads to square inch, value over 10c, per square yard, 40 per cent. BLEACHED COTTONS. Not over 100 threads to square inch, value not over 10c. per square yard, 3^e. per square yard. Not over 100 threads to square inch, value over 10c. per square yard, 40 per cent. Over 100, not over 200, threads to square inch, value not over 10c. per square yard, 4c. per square yard. Over 100, not over 200, threads to square inch, value not over 10c. per square yard, 40 per cent. Over 200 threads to square inch, value not over 12c. per square yard, 5c. per square yard. DYED, COIiOEED, STAINED OE PRINTED COTTONS. Not over 100 threads to square inch, value not over 13c. per square yard, 4|c. per square yard. Not over 100 threads to square inch, value not 13c. per square yard, 40 per cent. Over 100 and not over 200 threads to square inch, value not over 13c. per square yard, 5c. per square yard. Over 100 and not over 200 threads to square inch, value over 13c. per square yard, 40 per cent. Over 200 threads to square inch, value not over 15c. per square yard, 6c. per square yard. Over 200 threads to square inch, value over 15c. per square yard, 40 per cent. Cotton cloth, the threads of which are incapable of being coiinted under a glass, or actually separated, not otherwise specified, 35 per cent. 59 U. S. Import Duty on Cotton G^alloons, Gimps, Etc. Cotton goods, such as galloons, gimj)S, gloves, goring, iinhemmed bandkercliiefs (single or in strap), webbing, suspenders or braces, and all goods made of cotton, not otherwise specified, 35 per cent. Cotton damask embroideries, handkerchiefs (hem- med), insertings, laces, lace window curtains, trimmings, velvet, and cotton hosiery, fashioned, narrowed, or shaped wholly or in part by knitting machines or frames, or knit by hand, 40 per cent. i^»» One Pound of Cotton Yarn EeacMng 1,000 Miles. An English cotton manufacturing concern some years ago produced the finest, that is, the thinnest, cotton yarn ever seen — 700s — of which muslin was made. The same firm has produced since, yarn of 2,150, which is much finer than that of the famous Dacca muslin. A pound of the finest Sea Island cotton spun of this fineness would be 1,000 miles in length. Standard Grain Sacks and Bags. One hundred and forty pound jute export sacks should be from the best material, double stitched, not using less than an equivalent to 40x49-inch mangled or crape - finished material, weighing not less than 12 ounces per yard, of 40 inches in width, or 16 ounces for the complete bag. If from starched or sized material, the complete bag should not weigh less than 17 ounces. Two hundred and eighty pound jute export sacks should be from the best material, double stitched, not using less than an equivalent to 50x63-inch mangled or crape-finished material, weighing not less than 15 ounces per yard, of 50 inches in width, or 25 ounces for the complete bag. If from starched or sized material, the complete bag should weigh not less than 26^ ounces. Seamless jute sacks must be from same heft and quality of material, etc., but require 4 per cent, less material, and may weigh 4 per cent. less. One hundred and forty pound cotton export sacks should be double stitched, best drill or osnaburg, free from starch or sizing, using of drill not less than an equivalent to 40x47 inches, or if osnaburg not less than 37^x51^ inches to material, the complete bag weighing not less than 9i ounces. GO Comparative Expenses of Manufacturing in 1860 and 1880 Mr. Edward Atkinson, the well-known statistician, in referring to the comparative expenses of cotton manu- facturing in the United States in 1860 and 1880, says : "While the cost of labor was higher in 1880 than in 1860, it has been reduced in the finest fabric by the greater productive power of the machiner3\ The fabrics upon which by far the largest part of the spindles and looms of the country are operated may be divided sub- stantially into the following classes : 1. The printing cloth 28 inches wide and 7 yards to the pol^nd. The cost of mill labor in making this fabric, including the salaries, wages or earnings of every one employed, is now less than 1 cent, or half a penny, per yard. 2. The heavy sheeting, 36 inches wide, and the heavy drill, 30 inches wide, each weighing from 2| to 3 yards to the pound. The cost of mill labor in making these fabrics is about 1| cents per yard. 3. Shirtings and sheetings, 30 to 36 inches wide, Nos. 20 to 30 yarns, each weighing from 3 to 4 j^ards to the pound. The cost of mill labor in these goods is from IJ to 2 cents per yard. 4. The fine sheeting or shirting, from 30 to 40 inches wide, Nos. 30 to 40 yarns, weighing from 3 to 4 yards to the pound. The cost of mill labor in these goods is from 1| to 3 cents per yard 5. Fabrics of similar kind to the above from 1 to 3 5'ards wide. 6. Heavy cotton duck, cotton grain bags, cotton hose and other special articles. 7. Blue denims, stripes, tickings, brown denims and dtick, and other heavy colored goods, substantial ging- hams, cottonades and other fancy woven fabrics of medium and heavy weight. These seven classes comprise more than 95 per cent, of our cotton fabrics of weight ; to these are to be added hiwns, woven fabric of light weight for dresses and spool cotton. In respect of one-half of these fabrics, being those of lieavier grade, our proximity to the cotton field, com- puted at not less than half a cent per pound — often three quarters — enables the New England manufacturer to ])iiy 15 to 20 per cent, higher wages, and yet make the goods, other things being equal, at the same cost as liis competitor in Lancashire, On a large portion of other kinds of cotton this advantage in the cost of cot- ton is from 10 to 15 per cent. 61 The Throstle. The above cut represents the front and side views of the throstle. Bobbins full of prepared cotton roving are placed on the top of the machine. Eollers and bobbins and flyers draw out the fibres, elongating and attenuating them, and at the same time twisting .them tightly into a compact yarn, well adapted for the warp or long threads of woven goods. In the technical lan- guage of a cotton mill, the throstle is used for the hard, coarse yarns up to about No. 40. ^« »' Pabrios Produced from Different Varieties of Ootton. According to a well-known authority who has closely studied the manufacture of cotton in all its various stages, in India, England, the United States and other coun- tries, " the finest qualities of cotton (the Sea Island class) are made into lace and muslin of the most beautiful texture. "Other qualities — Egyptian, New Orleans and 'Bow- eds' (Bowed Georgia, etc.) — are made into cambrics and calicoes for printing, as well as into shirtings, sheetings and fustians, and, when mixed with the bet- ter kinds of waste, into bed covers and heavy fabrics. "But East Indian cotton is rarely at present used alone, except for the lowest purposes, because of its general inferiority, and it is generally disposed in adul- teration." 62 Cost and Selling Prices of Various Kinds of Ameri- can Cottons for a Series of Years. The followine: tabular statements of the sellicg prioeg of various kinds and classes of cottcns. together with the labor cost involved in the production of the same, are from the United States Census reports of 1880. They have been prepared by leading manufacturers, and are actual transcripts from their books. A leading firm gives the following selling prices of sheetings and bags in 1870, 1875 and 1880 : SHEETINGS AND BAGS. 16 ounce 40-m Sheet- 11-in Sheet- l-hush ing, per yd. ing per yd. Bags, each. Gents. Gents. Gents. 1870 ., . . . 15 37 81 1875 12 27 26 1880 9 28 10 The cost of labor in producing the same at the three different periods is given in the annexed statement : 16 ounce 40-m Sheet- ll-in Sheet- 2-hush ing, per yd, ing, pei" yd. Bag i^, each. Gents. Gents. Gents. 1870 03 46-100 ,06 48-100 .06 7-100 1875 03 20-100 .05 75-100 .05 1880 0210-100 .03 28-100 .03 11-100 As illustrating the percentage of wages to total cost of the production of such goods in the years named, the following showing is presented : ■40-m 11-in 16 ounce Sheeting, Sheeting, 1-hu. bag$, per cent. per cent. per cent. 1870 29 24 20 1875 35 31 26 1880 ; 82 25 19 WIDE SHEETING. The accompanying table from the same firm also gives the^selliug price,. labor cost and percentage of wages to cost per yard for wide sheeting in 1875-80 : Ge7its. Selling price 0.06% Labor cost 0.01 21-100 Percentage of wages to cost 0.02 15-100 f.3 SHEETINGS, DBILIjIMG AND BATTING. An Indiana cotton manufacturing company gives the following as the selling prices of their sheetings, drill- ing and batting for the years named : 1875. 1880. Sheeting, pryd. Cts. .09 .07% Dr illing, pr yd. Gts. .09% .08 Batting, pr yd. Ots. .10 .10 GEAIN BAGS. As regards the selling prices, cost, etc., of bags, a Kentucky bag manufacturer furnishes the following : Selling vrice. • Labor cost. > Grain Picking Grain Picking sacks, sacks sacks. sacks, per 100. per 100. per lOO. per 100. 1870 $33 00 $— $6 50 $— 1875 25 00 40 00 6 00 9 00 1880..; aO 00 35 00 5 50 8 00 CHEVIOTS, QUILTS, ETC. Another concern in Kentucliy also gives the following statement of the labor co^t of various classes of cottons in 1870, 1875 and 1880 : Crochet Marseilles Basket Gingharn,s, quilts. quilts. cheviots. per yd. each. each. per yd. 1860 17 1865 1870 14 $2 00 1875 10 1 65 $3 60 12% 10% 1880 10 1 12 2 50 SEEKSUCKEES, FANCY DUCK, ETC. A leading cotton factory in Maine sends the annexed statement of the selling prices of ginghams, quilts, cheviots, etc. : Dress Basket Fancy Ginghams. goods. sheeting. duck. yard. yard. yard. yard. 1870 04.83 1875 04 03 ... 04 83 1880 t'3 86 04.24 03.69 03 22 Cheviot Marseilles Cottons. Seersuckers. quilts. Shirting Sheeting 36- inch, 40- inc/i, ^1-inch. 48-inc/i. per cent, per cent pei' cent, per cent. 1870 22 22 — — 1875 26 26 26 26 1880 25 25 25 26 DRILIiING, DYED DUCK, ETC. From a cotton manufacturing concern in Maryland, which has been in existence sine 3 1808, making standard lines of sheetings, twills and duclis, the annexed tabular statement i^ presented : 1830 .... 183t ... 18 K> Fonr-yard s fleeting pr yd. $0.08 standard Thre sheeting dri pr yd. pr $0.10^4 12 09 06 08 05% 06 Cost »f labor pel- yard, cotton cloth weighing ? yds to lb. $0.03.26 02.58 02.03 01.88 0173 02.09 02.40 08.36 e-yard lling yd Pet of to cottc Dye due] pr y 'centai wagi cost ( m clot 28.50 d k d. 1845 . . . . 185U . . 1855 1860 . . . . 1865 .... 1830 Mil '« 7e "S ^f h. 1835 . 2610 1840 .... 1845 1850 ... 1855 22.75 27.05 2966 1860 .... 1865 .... 23.4-i 65 SEIililNa PRICES ( F PRINT CLOTH FOR A SERIES OP YEARS. The latter firm also gives the selling price, labor cost, and percentage of wages to cost of a yard of 64x64: piiut cloths covering the same periods of time, as below : Selling price Labor Percentage per yard, cost per yard. of wages Gents. Cents. to cost. 1855 05.20 01.45 35 1860 05.13 01.35 30 1865 12.27 01.45 15 1870 09.33 01.96 28 1875 05.36 01.75 31 1880 04.40 01.28 32 The foregoing establishment worked their employees 11 hours per day fom 1853 to 1859, and since that time to 1880, 10% hours per day, and paying them cash monthly. EXTRA 64X64 CiOTHS. The foregoing is supplemented by the following ad- ditional showing from a well-known print cloth factory in the same State, which produces extra 64x64 cloths : Selling price, per yard. Gents. Labor cost, per yard. Gents. Percentage. ofioages to cost per cent. Cents. 06 8 05.6 04.6 01.75 01.43 01.01 27.5 28.5 32.5 1870 1875 1880 . , . . The manufacturing concern last noted paid their employees cash and worked them only ten hours per day. COST OF COTTON IN A YARD OF PRINT CLOTH. From a New Ham pb ire print cloth manufacturing Arm, which was established away back in the forties and which produces 64x64 cloths in grey, using warp No. 30 and filling No. 38, we have the following state- ment of the cost of the cotton necessary to make a yard of 64x64 print cloth : Cost. Gents. 1855 01.98 1860 02.35 1865 07.71 1870 04.31 1875 03.14 1880 01.96 66 A POPTJIiAR BBAND OP TIOKIN&. Another cotton manutacturing establiahment in New Hampshire, makiner tickings, denims, cotton flannels, shirtings, stripes and ginghams, gives the following ex- hibit of the labor cost per yard for making one of the most popular brands of ticking produced in this coun- try, for two periods, with twenty-flve years intervening : Per yard. 1855 -• 02.78 1880 02.42 This establishment was founded in 1826, and states that the wages of their employees x^ere 25 per cent, lower in 1855 than they paid in 1880, and that by the utilization of improved machinery they were enabled to accomplish the reduction in the labor cost as above in 1880. SELLING PRIOES OF TICKING, ETC. Tiie same factory also gives the subjoined list of the selling prices, labor cost, etc., per yard of ticking and gingham which it produced in the years named : Percentage of wages Selling Drioe. > Labor cost ^ to cost TicWg, Gingh'm. Tick'g G-ingKm. ofVk'g, p r yd. per yd. per yd, per yd pe cent. 1845.. 14% .... 08.97 ... 28 1850.. 14% .... 02.38 .... 25 1855.. 14% ... 02.87 ... 26 1860 15% .... 02.41 .... 20 1865.. 77 .... 02.65 10 1870.. 31% 17 04.28 04 44 19 1875.. 21.16 10.89 04 03 43 22 1880.. 16 08 02.42 02.96 aS YARNS, TWINES, ETC. A cotton factory in Missouri, which makes sheetings, yarns, twines, batts and bags, which have large sale in the West and Southwest, furnishes the subjoined list of the selling prices of sheetings, yarns, twines, batts and bags for a series of years : Sheet Ya7~ns. Twines. Batts. Bags. Yd. Lb. Lb. Lbs. each. Cents. Cents. Cents. . Cents. Cents. 1860 09 22 19 10@12 20 1865 30 90 40@45 65 1870 16 40 35 20@25 30 1875 08 21 20 11@14 21 1880 08% aO 19 G9@U 30 67 68 GINGHAMS AND COTTON DEESS GOODS. A well-known cotton manufacturing concern in Con- necticut, which was established in 1824, and which has been in successful operation ever since, says that from "1830 to 1855 all classes of their operatives worked 12 hours per day ; from 1855 to 1865 11% hours, and from 1865 to 1880. 10 to 11 hours per ddy." This same concern also gives the following selling prices of ginghams and cotton dress goods for a series of years : Year. 1845 1850 1855 .... Ging- ham <. Pryd. Cents. 12 12 12 Dress Goods. Pryd. Gents. Year. 1865 1870 1875 1880 Ging- l.ams. Pr yd. Gents. 20 11 09 10 Dress Goods. Pryd. Cents, 1860 14 129. According to the statement of this concern, "the labor cost for the production of ginghams 1877 was 3.44c per yard, and of cotton drees goods, 8.78c per yard, and wages were 44 per cent, of the total cost of ginghams for that year." BBOWN SHEETING. A large and well-known cotton mill in the State of Connecticut makes the following transcript of the sell- ing price, labor cost, etc., of brown sheeting, the brand of which is very popular, and largely sold in all mar- kets : Selling Price Labor cost Percentage b'wn sheeting Vwn sheetiiig of wages per yard per yard to cost of Gents. Gents. b'lon sheMing^ 1864-5 54 .02 54-100 48 1870 11 .02 36-100 " 38 1875 08 .01 90-100 25 1880 06 .0121-100 27 SPOOIi OOTTOK. Of spool cotton, a celebrated oonoern in the New England States, which makes several varieties, gives the folllowing range of the selling prices of the same per dozen for a period of years : Selling price. 1860 40to$l 75 1865 80 to 110 1870 72to 80 1875 55 to 72 1880 .56 69 f/HITE COTTONS. A ootton factory est iblished in Massachusetts since 1823, which worked its employes twelve hours per day from 1845 to 1859; eleven hours per day from 1859 to 1874, and ten hours per day from 1874 to 1880, mak- ing use of the most improved machinery dating the periods noted, submits the subjoined statement of the selling prices, etc., of white cottons : SELLING PRICES AND LABOR COST. Selling price Labor cost % ver yard. per lb. per yard. per lb. 1845 .... $0.01.517 $0.05.305 1850 .... 01.649 06.290 1855.. $0.07.81 $0.25.58 01.583 05 310 1860.. 08.55 29.75 01.337 04.330 1865.. 25.70 1.12.00 02.562 08.605 1870 . 14.30 50.00 02.884 04 615 1875.. 11 38.00 02.259 07.008 1880.. 09.50 28.30 01.465 04 217 The above concern also states that latterly, through the use of improved machinery, it has not only in- creased its output and reduced the cost of the same 12 t o 15 per cent., but has also diminished the number of its employees 10 to 12 per cent. PRINTING CLOTHS. An old and prominent print-cloth and print-manufac- turing concern in the same State furnishes the follow- ing interesting list of the labor cost per yard of print cloths for every five years iotervening between 1850 and 1880 : PRICES. 1830 $.01.74 2855 01.56 I860 01.40 1 865 02 . 65 1870 02 02 1875 01 .44 1880 00.87 HOURS OP LABOR. The hours of labor per day of the employees of this concern, during the time named, were as follows : 1830 to 1845, 12 1-6 hours; 1850 to 1855, 11 54-60 hours; 1855 to 1860, 11 34 60 hours ; 1860 to 1870, 11 hours ; 1870 to 1880, 10 hours. 70 OOTTON CLOTH. An establishmeiat in Coflneoticut submits the follow- ing exhibit of the labor cost, etc., of cotton cloth, since -1855 : Labor cost of Percentage of cotton cloth 7iumber yarn Pe)'centage of per lb. used. wages to cost Gents. Gents. of cotton cloth 1855.... 12 22-100 30.00 42.70 1860 09 6-100 25.36 39 20 1865 ... . . . : 12 23-100 34.72 15.45 1870 22 2-100 42.88 40.10 1875 13 95-100 35 21 38.70 1880 .... 09 87-100 25.37 36.70 The latter Arm also state that the improvements in machinery, in pickers, cards, winders, railway heads, drawing frames, speeders, spinning frames, mules, spoolers, warpers, creels, cylinders, looms, etc., of late years have been very marlied and have considerably lessened the general cost of production. The same es- tablishment also says wages have averaged about 25 per cent, of the total cost of production, and divides the latter up as follows : Goit.per cent, Kaw material 65 Labor 25 Golcrlng 10 OOTTON WINDOW SHADE OLOTH. A well-known Delaware cotton manufacturer gives the subjoined sellinsf prices for cotton cloth in the grey, 39 inches wide, counting 52 by 50 picks and weighing 6% yards to the pound, which is bleached and starched for window makers use : Selling price per yd. Gts. 1860. 08 1865 25% 1870 09 7-16 1875 06% X880 oey^ PLAIDS, DRILLS, BTO. A cotton factory still further South— in the State of Georgia— submits the following table of selling prices of their sheetings, plaids, etc., for a series of years : 1870 1876. . . . 4-4 sheeting per yai'd. Gents. 14 09 Standard plaids. pel' yard. Gents'. ' 19 10% 09% Ball Thread Gents. 65% 40 1880 -07% 28 71 o Pi 72 Cotton Manufacturing in Lowell, Mass., in 1835. The following is taken from a letter dated Lowell, Mass., April 20th, 1835, written by Kirk Boott, the wealthy merchant of Boston, after whom the Boott Cotton Mills are named : " The Merrimack (7o.— Capital, $1,500,000; have exten- sive print works and five cotton mills. They run 34,432 spindles, 1,253 looms, give employment to 1,321 females and 437 males, and make 172,000 yards clotli per week. *• The Hamilton Co.— Capital, $900,000 ; have large printing establishment and three cotton mills. They run about 19,000 spindles, 600 looms, employ about 800 females and 200 males, and make 78,000 yards of prints and drillings p«r week. " The Appleton Co.— Capital, $500,000; run two mills, between 10,000 and 11,000 spindles, 350 looms, employ 475 females, 70 males, and make 80,000 yards of No. 14 sheetings and shirtings per week. •' The Lowell Co. — Capital, $500,000; manufacture cot- ton, carpets, rugs, negro cloths, etc., of a very superior quality. They run 4,500 or 5,000 spindles in their cot- ton mills, 140 cotton and 68 carpet looms, employ 330 females, 150 males, and manufacture in the aggregate about 43,000 yards per week. •• The Suffolk Co.— Capital, $450,000; run two mills in the manufacture of No. 14 drillings, with 10,240 spindles, 350 looms, give employment to 460 females, 70 males, and make 90,000 yards per week. " The Tremont Co.— Capital, $500,000; run two mills, 11,000 spindles, 400 looms, employ 450 females and 80 males, and make 120,000 yards of No. 14 sheetings and shirtings per week. " T/ie iaiorence Co.— Capital, $1,200,000; went into operation since either of the above. They run at present four cotton mills for the manufacture of sheetings and shirtings, Nos. 14 to 30, 37 to 41 inches wide." Cleaning Cotton by Hand. In early times cotton was cleaned from its seeds, etc., b}'^ hand, a method, which while it was wholly imper- fect, caused also a considerable loss of the fibre. 73 Equipment of a Modern Cotton Factory. The following requirements of a modern cotton factory in the way of equipment are given by a British manu- facturing authority: Condensing engine, cylinder 37 inches diameter; stroke of piston, 7 feet; volume of piston space, 53.6 cubic feet; average pressure of steam, 16.73 pounds per square inch; revolutions, 17 per minute; friction of engine and shafting (indicated), 4.75 pounds per square of piston; indicated horse-power, 125; total power =: 1; available deducting friction = 717. (The foregoing has reference to an English mill for driving 22,060 hand mule spindles, with preparation, and 200 looms, with common sizing.) Remakes. - Each additional horse-power will drive 305 hand-mule spindles, with preparation ; Or 230 self-acting, ' Or 104 throstle, Or 10.5 looms, with common sizing. Including preparation : 1 throstle spindle = 3 hand-mule, or 2.25 self-act- ing, spindles. 1 self-acting spindle = 1.2 hand-mule spindles. Exclusive of preparation, taking only the spindle: 1 throstle spindle = 3.5 hand-mule, or 2.56 self- acting, spindles. 1 self-acting spindle = 1.375 hand-mule spindles. The throstles are the common spring, 34 twist, for power-loom weaving; the spindles 4,000 times per min- ute. The self-acting mules are one-half spring, 36's weft, spindles revolving 4,800; the other half spring, 36's twist, spindles revolving 5,200. The hand-mules spring about equal quantities of 36's weft and twist. Weft spindles, 4,700, and twist spindles 5,000 revolutions. Average breadth of looms 37 inches (weaving 37 inch cloth), making 123 picks per minute. All common cot- tons about 60 reed, Stockport count, and 68 picks to the inch. No power consumed by sizing When the yarn is dressed, instead of sized, one horse-power cannot drive so many looms, as the dressing machine will absorb .17 to .14 of the power. 74 English Cotton Goods of Standard Make in 1800, 1830, and 1846. The English cotton goods of all standard makes at the commencement of this century comprised prints, mus- lins, corduroys, fustians, sheetings, shirtings, twills and ginghams. In 1830 the records give madapolams, tanjibs, domestics, jaconets, gauze leno, figured muslin, splits and velveteens. In 1846 there were chronicled lawns, books, nainsooks, figured counterpanes ; and in 1864, brilliante, chambrey, blue mottle, satin checks, in addition to previously mentioned goods, from which list the absence of dhooties, turkey reds, Turkish towels and cloths of later origin will be noted. Hindoo or East Indian Cottons. Biaz is a cotton material resembling linen, manufac- tured in Central Asia to a considerable extent, both for native use and exportation to Russia. There are three sorts of it: the best, or Bokharian; the medium, or Khivan, and an inferior variety manufactured at 'JTash- kend. The Bokharian biaz is brought to the bazars and purchased by dealers for Russia. It is sold in pieces from 12J to 16J yards in length and 10^ inches in breadth. The Tashkend biaz is slightly inferior in quality to the Bokharian. A blue biaz called tendel, or huyak, dyed with indigo, is also exported from Bok- hara, Khiva and Tushkend to Russia. Tariff Kevision on American Cottons in 1883. The tariff revision of 1883 made a heavy cut in the duties on cottons, the cotton goods schedules being re- duced from 55 per cent, on the lower grade of unbleached goods or cloth containing less than 100 threads per square inch, to 23 per cent, on bleached goods exceed- ing over 200 threads per square inch. On cotton warp yarns or thread the reduction ranged fron 16 67-100 to 33 33-100 per cent., according to the value of the yarn. Selling Prices of American Cottons and Prints in 1827, "In 1827 Lowell, Mass., had six cotton mills, four stories high, 155 feet by 44, containing 25,000 spindles, and about 150 looms, in which were made in 1826 5,042,408 yards of cotton cloth, weighing 1,045,386 pounds, from 1,176,082 pounds of raw cotton. The numbers of yarn were 22, 26, 30 and 40. There were two mills for twilled and four for plain goods. There were employed 12,000 persons in the mills — nine-tenths of whom were females— 20 from 12 to 14 years of age. Daily wages average 50c., the minimum being 37Jc. and the maximum $2. About 2,500,000 yards of cottons were annually printed, and the residue sold bleached. The average value of the prints was about 18c., and of the bleached goods 12c. to 13c. per yard." — Kirk BootCs Letter to Matthew Carey, Oct. 25, 1827. Cotton Manufacturing in Providence, K. I, in 1809. **In 1809 seventeen cotton mills were in operation within the town of Providence and its vicinity, work- ing 14,296 spindles, and using 640,000 pounds of cotton, which yielded 510,000 pounds of yarn. About 1,000 looms were employed in weaving cotton cloth. The cloths manufactured were bed-ticking, stripes and checks, ginghams, shirtings and counterpanes. They were superior to the imported goods of the same kind." — Benedict's History of Rhode Island, published in 1813. Loss of Length in Twisting Cotton Yarn. Yarn must always lose a littte length in twisting, the loss being proportionate to the thickness of the yarn, and the hardness of the twist, and therefore, of course, varying with every count of spinning woolen and wor- sted yarns. If two bobbins of the same counts are twisted together, the count will, of course, become half of what it was before, just as the weight will be double. Thus, two-folds 40's is equal to single 20's, not allowing for running up of the twist. When different counts are twisted together, to find the count of the combination multiply the numbers by the two counts together and divide the product by the sum of the two added to- gether. 76 77 Duties on Cotton Yarns in Foreign Countries. In Russia the duties on cotton yarns range from £1 15s. 6d. per cwt., unbleached. No. 45 and below, to £3 9s. for twisted yarns of two or more threads. In Ger- many they run from 6s. Id. per cwt. for numbers up to 17, single, bleached, up to £1 15s. 7d. for cable twist and sewing thread. In Holland all kinds are free; in Turkey all pay 8 per cent, ad valorem; in Sweden, Nor- way and Denmark the tarifls are simple, and, save for sewing thread in Sweden, low; the same is the case for Belgium. In France the tariff is very complicated, and Very high in some instances. It ranges from 6s. Id. per cent, to £7 6s. 4d., the latter being the rate for un- bleached twisted, of above 170,500 metres to the half millogramme; single unbleached, twisted unbleached, bleached, dyed or clouded, warped (bleached, un- bleached and dyed), and thread in balls or reels, are all different categories. In Portugal the duties begin at £1 10s. lOd. and go up to £4 4s. 7d. ; in Spain they run from £1 10s. up to £3 lis. 2d. ; in Italy from 7s. 4d. to £2 4s. 8d. ; in Austria from 6s. id. to £1 15s. 7d. ; in Switzerland from 5^d. to 14s. 3d., and in Greece from 19s. 3d. to £2 8s. Although the United States tariff has not such a minute classification as that of France, it i-e even more remarkable in another direction. The duty on thread and yarn varies, not with the length of a thread to a particular weight, or with the bleaching or dyeing, twisting or otherwise, but with the value. Where the yarn does not exceed 25c. a pound in value, the duty is £2 6s. 8d. per cwt., which in the most favorable condi- tions possible would be 50 per cent., and might be 75, 80 or 90 per cent. The duty goes on rising as the value per pound rises, until for thread or yarn of the value of 80c. to $1 per pound the duty is £11 4s. per cwt., which is about 50 per cent, under the best circum- stances. About a dollar per pound the duty is 50 per cent, ad valorem. Value of American Cotton Crop of 1889. It is estimated that the cotton crop of the South of 1888-9 was worth anywhere from $325,000,000 to $350,000,000. 78 European Exports of Cotton Yarns and Cotton Tissues. The following table shows the exports of cotton yarns and cotton tissues from the principal Euro- pean countries Austria-Hungary, Germany, France, Great Britain — during the years comprised between 1881 and 1885, inclusive : Articles, ^^^l^^ry. Germany. France. g^^f^ Francs. Francs. Francs. Francs. Cotton Yarn. 1881 2,000,000 42,000,000 2,500,000 394,700,000 1882 2,200,000 40,200,000 2,700,000 385,700,000 1883 2,500,000 32,000,000 2,200,000 405,000,000 1884 2,200,000 28,000,000 2,200,000 416,500,000 1885 2, 200, 000 23, 000, 000 3, 200, 000 355, 700, 000 Cotton Tissues. 1881 18,500,000 148,200,000 88,500,000 1,952,000,000 1882 16,200,000 183,800,000 97,700,000 1,888,500,000 1883 20,500,000 180,700,000 89,600,000 1,887,200,000 1884 18,000,000 192,500,000 89,200,000 1,766,700,000 1885 17,000,000 188,200,000 102,200,000 1,652,000,000 ■^«^ - ■ — - Old and New Cotton Mills. The erection of a cotton mill or factory at the present time is on a far more comprehensive scale than in the early days of manufacturing. The new cotton mills, covering large areas and constructed on the principle of good light, temperature and ventilation, are as widely diJBferent from the old style as the modern house is from the dwelling of the mediaeval age. The old mills were almost wholly of a narrow type, while many of the tex- tile establishments now erected vary from 300 to 125 feet in width, being necessary in many cases for the high stories characteristic of the present building age. Perhaps the most noticeable difference in the modern mill structure, to the ordinary observer, is the unusual facilities for natural light. Light from combustion is comparatively poor and costly. In many of the weaving departments of mills built years ago and poorly win- dowed, the constant use of gas or oil for lighting pur- poses so overheats the air that the ordinary operative loses physical vigor. In a wide ujill, with high stories, the windows must be necessarily large in order to secure good natural light, occupying at least 40 per cent, or more of th)^ side walls, and leaving but little width of the brick work between them. 79 Price of Britisli Cottons Exported to United States and other Countries in 1833, The following statement shows the average declared price per piece and per yard, and yards in piece, of British cottons exported to United States in 1833. Average Averarge Length of price per price per each piece. piece. yard. Description. s. d. s. d. Dimity 60 yards. 26 3 5^ Quiltings and Eibs . . . . 60 " 52 6 10* Lawns and Lenos 20 " 10 10 6^ Calicoes, Printed 28 •' 11 llj 5J Calicoes, Plain 24 " 7 4 3^ Cambrics and Muslins . 20 •* 10 f» 6^ Cotton and Linen, Mixed 40 '•' 11 4 3| Ginghams 20 " 10 5 6^ Imitation Shawls 12 " 6 3 6| Nankeens 50. " 17 8^ 4i Velveteens 60 " 52 6 10^ Lace 40 *' 10 10 SJ Tecks, etc 50 " 25 5 6^ Damasks 36 *' 24 9 8| Counterpanes 6 H each Shawls Dozen 6 3 6} Tapes " 19 2 Hosiery " * 11 lOJ pair. — Official Custom Returns of Great Britain Prices of American Cotton Goods in 1789-91. According to the statement of Almy & Brown, of Providence, R. I., who were among the pioneers of cotton manufacturing in this country, the following were the selling prices of the goods produced by them from June 6, 1789. to Oct. 15, 1791 : s. d. s. d. Corduroys 3 6 to 4 per yard. Boyal Ribs,Denims, etc 3 to 4 Cottonets. 2 6 to 3 Jeans 2 to 2 6 Fustians 1 8 to 2 Thickets 4 to 4 4 Fancy Cords 3 6 to 4 Velvirets 4 to 4 4 80 Average Selling Price of Ordinary Plain Cotton Cloth, in England from 1814 to 1833. The average selling price throughout the year of one piece of calico (plain cotton cloth, 24 yards to piece), in Manchester, England, from 1814 to 1833, according to the British official returns, and the approximate value per yard, in U. S. money of to-day, are given belovv^. Years. Average price per piece in Manchester, Eng. £. s. d. value in U. S. currency of to-day, per yd. Cents. 1814 1 4 19 7 8| 25.58 1815 20.54 1816 16 ^ 17.37 1817 16 1 16.75 1818.. - 16 ^ 17.37 1819 , . 13 9 13.91 1820 12 U 12.62 1821... . 9 Si 9.75 1822 9 3i 9.66 1823 8 Hi 9.29 1824 8 5| 8.77 1825 8 4 8.77 1826 , 6 3^ 6.52 1827 6 6 6.75 1828 6 51 6.68 1829 5 8 5.54 1830 6 3i 6.52 1831 .'... 6 2^ 6.43 1832 5 6 8 2 5.54 1833 6.41 Price of British Printed Cotton Cloth Exported to U. S. from 1827 to 1832. British Customs statistics give the average declared price per yard of printed cotton cloth exported to the United States in the years named, as follows: Equal in U. S. Price per yard. curr-^ncy of Declared value. to-day, per yd. Years. Pence. Cents. 1827 9 18 1828 8| m 1829 9^ 19 1830 8" 16 1831 7^ 15 1832 6" 12 81 The Cotton Power Loom, The machine required for weaving plain cotton cloth in which each end of weft and twist is interwoven alternately, and on the face of which no figure is shown, is simple. The warp yarn is con- tained on a beam, the weft is i)laced in a shuttle, and the loom con- sists of the necessary frame work and mechanism for holding the warp in the required position, passing the weft between alternate warp threads. A general view of the cotton power loom is given in the follow- ing cut: FKUNT VIEW OF POWER LOOM FOR WEAVING PLAIN COTTON CLOTH. In the process of weaving it is necessary to hold the warp some- what tightly, each portion at the same tension, and to obtain this condition the cloth is pulled forward by the taking-up roller as it is woven, but the warp is held back by the friction of weighted chains or ropes on the collars of the beam. The warp passes up- wards from the beam, over the back rest, and thence to the back of the healds; between the back rest and healds are the lease rods — a large one, with a smaller rod nearer the healds. By means of these rods the warp is separated into equal portions,, two ends passing alternately over or under the thick rod; those passing over the thick one also passing under the thin rod. The rule commonly observed for four healds is to have the ends passing the first and third heald over the thin rod, and those drawn through the second and fourth, over the thick rod, and consequently under the thin one. The first heald is the one nearest the front of the loom; that is, 1, 3, 2, 4, and applies to plain cotton cloth, although the first and second healds are worked as one, and the third and fourth together. Respecting the two ends which pass together at the lease rods, the one through the front heald is to the left of the one through the third heald; whilst with the other coui^les the end through the more forward heald is to the left of the other. t82 I As will be seen by looking at the accompanying illustration, which gives the back view of a power loom for weaving plain cot- ton cloth, the healds are suspended on each side of the heald-roller, A, by means of straps and cords, wliicb are shown in the cut. BACK VIEW OF A POWER LOOM FOR WEAVING PLAIN COTTON CLOTH The portion of the heald roller supporting the back healds is larger than for the front ones ; this is to make the former when lifted make the shed at the same angle as the front healds. Below are seen the crauk shaft, B, and the tappet shaft, C, driven from it at exactly half the speed. The latter shaft bears the picking plates, H, and shedding taj^pets, K. The slay, supported by the slay- sword, D, on the rocking shaft, is shown also. It carries the reed at E, held in position by the slay cap, F. The back rest at G, over which the warj^ passes, and the weight levers and driving pulleys are also noticeable parts. The cloth is woven pick by pick, and the whole action of the loom may be confined in repetitious of the operations contingent on putting in one pick. Supposing the warp to be in position and the machine in running order, the first move- ment is to open the warj) into two ijarts, and is called shedding; the second is to pass the shuttle through the opening thus made, called picking; and thirdly, to beat up the weft close to the pick last put in — technically, to fill the cloth. In addition to these, aux- iliary movements are taking i^lace for winding on the woven cloth, keeping it distended and checking the motion of the loom in case of accident. EXPLANATORY NOTE. Beam is the flanged roller on which the warp yarn is wound. Counts.—^ system of indicating the fineness of yarn. Fell. — ^The edge of the fabric (in the loom) which has most re- cently been woven. nmld^^' Eu"' [ '^^^ arrangement of leashes. I'ick — The insertion of a thread of weft, Sftvage. — The sides of a fabric. slieAl. — The opening made in the warp for the* passage of the tih-iitlo. Slaij. — Lay or lathe. Tappet. — Scotch for wiper March. June, Oct. 1860. 1887. 1889 Cents. Cents Cents 9 ^y. 7 6% 8% 7^4, 7 83 Prices of Oottons in 1859, 1860, 1887 and 1889. 1 ho first column gives the jobbers' prices in Maich, 1859 ; the second column, jobbers' prices in March, 1860; the third column, agents' pric< s for June, 1887; and the fourth columD, jobbers' prices for the month of October, 1889. The omissions of prices in the third and fourth columns in so- e instances are owing to the fact that there has been a change in the tickets or qualities of the goods, and in some cases the goods are no longer made. BROWN SHEETINGS AND SHIRTINGS. March, 1859. Cents. AgawamF, 36-in lY^ Amoskeafi: A, 36-i.j 9 Appteton A, 36-ln 9 Atlantic A, 36-iii. 9 Granito vilie EE , 36-iu 8^ Great Falls E, 36-iu 7% Indian Head, 36-in ... . ... 9 Indian Head, 30-in 7 Indian Head, lO-in 11% Massachusetts A, 36-in .... 7^ Nashua K, 36-ia 8% Nashua O, 30-iu 7 Pepperell E,39.in 9^^ Pepperell E, 36-in 8% Pepperell O, 33-ln. . - 8^ Pepperell N, 30-ia 7% Pocasset Canoe, 36-in 9 StarkA, 36-ii 9 Waltham, 39-in 9% Waltham, 51-in. 12 Waltham, 58-in 14% Waltham, 77-in 20 Waltham, 87-in 23 Waltham. 97-in 26 Indian Orchard W, 33-m . ... 7% Indian Orchard B, 30-in, .... 8% BLEACHED SHEETINGS AND SHIRTINGS. Amoskeag, 32-in 8% Amoskeag, 37-iQ 10% Amoskeag, 42-in 11% Amoskeag, 46-in 12% AmoslJeag Z Blackstone A, 36-iu 10 BoottR 30-in 6% BoottS... 9 BoottW 11% Great Falls '^ , 36 in 9 Great Falls Q, 36-iu 12% Great Falls M, 33-in 8% Harris, 36-in 9% HoDe A, 36-in 9 Hil! . 11 Hl'l, 32-in 10 8^ 1% 8% 7% 9% 9 ■7% 6% 7 7% 10% 6% 5% 7 6% 6 5% 6% 7% 6^ 6% 6% 6% 10 6% 7 "7" 6% 6 5% 6% 7 11% 12% 13% 8^^ 10 7% 7% 5 6% 9% .... ■9% '9* *6% "6% 8^ 7% 11% 1% 10% 7% Si Prices of Cottons in 1859, Etc.— Continued. {Bleached Sheetings unci Shirtings. — Continue I.) 3IarcU, 1859 CeiitS' Lonsdale, 36-in 10% Masonvill6, 36-in 11% Slater ville, 36-in 9% New York Mills 15 Waltham, 42 in 10 Waltham, le-in 12 Waltham, 54-in 15% Waltham, 72-in. 21 Waltham, 81-in 24 Waltham, 90-in 28 Wamsutta, 36-in 12% Wamsutta, 40-in ; 14% Wamsutt», 45-in 15% Warren, 36in 9% Waure^aa WT, 36-in 11% White Kock, 36-in Pepperell, 6-4 Pepperell, 8-4 Pepperell, 9-4 Pepperell, 10-4 Utica Steam Cot. Miils, 36-in Utica Steam Cot. Mills, 5-4 Utica Steam Cot. Mill^^, 6-4. ... Utica Steam Cot, Mills. 9-4 U tica Steam Cot. Mills, 10-4 March, June, Oct. 1860. 1887. 1889. Cents. Gents. Cents. 11% s% 8 s% s% 10% 15% ii io 11 „ 15% 23% .... 27 30 13 11 10 15 14 16% 16 14% 11% 11 13 s% 9X 13 8 8 16 14% 13% 23 18 18 26 20 "20 30 22% 24 10 11 8% 15% 15 13% 18% 17% 15% 30 25 22% 33 27% 24% Amoskeag: brown Amoskeag bleached. Amosbeag blue Laconia brown Laconia bleached Laconia blue Massachusetts Pepperell Stark Suffolk.... Boott BROWN DKIIiLS. ... s% ... 10% ... 9% ... 10 ... 10% ... 8% ... 9% ... 9% ... 9 9% BEOWN DENIMS. Amoskea^r A 14% Columbian XXX 10 Otis AAA 10 Pearl Kiver 14 Warren BB 9% York 15 COKSET JEANS. Amoskeag, colored 9% Amoskeag, bleached 9% Ppperell, colored 9 Pepperell, bleached 9% Naumkeag:, colored 9% Naumkeagr, bleached 9% Laconia, colored 9% L'iconia, bleached 9% 15 10 10 14% 9% 14^ e% 6% T4 10% io G% ^% 6% 6% 6% 7 6% 6% 6% ey. 14 13 12 10 12% 10 13% 9% 13% 12% 9 n% ^4 8% 7% 6% 8 8 7 7 6% 6^ 85 Prices of Cottons in 1859, Etc.— Continued. (Bleached Sheetings on i Shirtings.— Continwd.) HIOKOKT STKIPES. March, 1859. Cents. Amoskeag 11 Boston 9% JewettCity 9% Thorndike S% TICKINGS. Amoskea^ ACA, 32-in 16% Amoskeag A, 32-m 13 Amoskeaff B, 32-in 11% Amoskeag C. 32-in 11 Amoskeag D 10 Amoskpag awning, 32-in 11 Conestogo A, 30-in 9% Conestogo AA, 30-in 10% Conestogo HT, 30-in 11% Conestogo XX r. 30-in 12% Conestogo CCA, 30-in ... 14% Hamilton, 30-ia 11% Methuf^n, 32-iQ 14 Pearl Kiver, 32-in : . . . 15% Thorndike A 9% York, 30-in 12% York, 32-in 16 ] COTTON FliANNEIiS. Amoskeag A, brown 11% Amoskeag B, brown 11% Amoskeag A, bleached 14 Amoskeag B, bleached 13% Hamilton F, brown 10 Hamilton BF, bleached 10% March, Jane, Oct. I860. 1887. 1889 Cents. Cents. Gents. 9% 9% 7% 6% 7% 7% .... 9%@1U 9% 17 13% 12% 11% 10% 11% 9% 10% il% 12% 14% 11% 14% 15% Ql/ COTTON BAGS. 23 S^ark A, 2-bush.. PRINTS. {lilens..... 10 American 10 Gloucester 9% (Jonestoga 9% Garner 9% Merrimack D. 10 Merrimack W 10% Spragues 10 GINGHAMS. Lancaster staples '. ... 10 Glasgow . 10 Manchester 9% 9% 9% 9% "9% 14 13 12 1 ii/ il/Q 11 13 13 11 12% 13% 14 13 15 14 10% 21 5% 5% 5% 5% 5% 6 6% 7% 7 6'i 12% 11% 15 11 10 12 12 7% 12 14 13 12 14% 13 9 10 20% 6 6 6 e" 6% 6 5% 80 British Exports of Sewing Thread. In 1888 the total quantity of sewing thread exported from Great Britian was 21,719,100 lbs., valued at £3,180,885. The figures for the previous year, 1887, were 20,392,000 lbs., valued at £2.979,184. «#>» Location of the Cotton Trade of G-reat Britain The bulk of the cotton trade in England is found in Lancashire, and it is the chief and most absorbing occupation of cities and towns like Manchester, Liver- pool, Preston, Blackburn, Bolton, Bary,Wigan, Oldham, Chorley, Barnley, Padinam, Accrington, Middletown, Bacup, and countless villages. The chief cotton centres of Scotland are Glasgow, Paisley, and a few of the Ayrshire towns. ^^^^■^^^ Loss of Weight in Bleaching Gotten. In bleaching cotton it loses a portion of its weight, because the bleaching process is, in all cases, suhstractive. It loses much resinous and coloring matter, often amounting from 10 to 12 per cent. On dyeing, etc., on the contrary, it acquires a portion of the drugs employed, because this process is additive ; and as much as 10 to 15 may be added to the weight of the raw yarn, by its pass- age through the various coloring processes. Cotton Crops of Egypt. The following is a tabulated statement of the cotton crops of Egypt from 1873 to 1888, inclusive. The weight of the bale is 750 pounds: 1873-4 413,611 2.575,648 1874-5 348,802 2,206,443 1875-6 466,894 2,982,287 1876-7 438,536 2,817,482 1877-8 403,270 2,605,453 1878-9 254,342 1.677,749 1879-80 471,726 3,202,051 1880-1 409,101 2,794.321 1881-2 . ■ 425,315 2,930,962 l'<82-3 326,077 2,267,863 1883 4 380,801 2,265 531 1884-5 '. 501,686 3,564,717 1885-6 407,970 2,901,607 1886-7 418,372 2,983,123 1887-8 413,891 2,942,638 87 Cotton Factories. The accompanying illustration gives a fair representa- tion of the modern cotton factory: A MODERN COTTON FACTORY. The general height of the cotton mills in this conntry (that is, those built prior to the late war) is three to four stories with an attic, but some mills since then, or more recently, are five, six and even more stories, with plain roof. The height of cotton mills in Scotland is six stories, with plain roof. Those in England are from six to eight stories high. Inventor of the Cotton G-in. Eli Whitney, the inventor of the cotton gin, died on Jan. 8, 1825, and was buried in the cemetery of New Haven, Conn. His tomb is after the model of Scipio's at E,ome. It is simple and beautiful, and promises to endure for years. It bears the following inscription : ELI WHITNEY, The inventor of the cotton gin. Of useful science and arts, the efficient patron and improver. In the social relations of life, a model of excellence. While private affection weeps at his tomb, his country honors his memory. Born December 8th, 1765. -Died Jan. 8th, 1825. 88 Adulterated or "Loaded" Britisii Cottons. Britisli cotton goods are still sold fully loaded, and sometimes so much so that it is hardly fair to call them cotton, when that material can scarcely be considered the chief constituent of them. According to a British textile authority; "They will probably continue to sell so long as they constitute our cheapest textile; but if any of the efforts to find a new fibre, or to improve the processes in those in use, were to be rewarded with suc- cess, the English sized calicoes would have had their da3^ Th^re is no doubt that ingenuity in bleaching and finishing has been brought to such a degree that the marketable cotton cloth now covers a multitude of sins, and that a third-class article can be brought almost to equal in appearance a cloth of the best quality." Differences in Textile Fibres. The textile fibres, cotton, wool, silk, flax and hemp differ considerably from each other in their structure. The first three consist of definite and entire filaments not divisible without decomposition ; the last two con- sist of fibrils bundled together in parallel directions which are easier separated into much more minute fila- ments. These bundles are bound together by paren- chymatous rings, from which they are freed by opera- tions of heckling, spinning and bleaching. The downy filaments are cylindered tube?, growing in that state, but get more or less flattened in the maturation and dyeing of the wool. They are shut off at both end^ , and their flattened diameters vary from 1-500 to 1-1000 of an inch, according to the quality. The filaments of wool, when seen through a power- ful microscope, have somewhat the appearance of a shale, with the edges of its scales turned out a little from the surface so as to mike the profile line of the sides like a fine saw, with the teeth sloping in the di- rection from the roots to the point. Each fibre of wool seems to consist of serrated rings imbricated over each other like joints. The teeth differ in size and promi- nence in different wools, as well as the annular spaces between them, the latter being in genfral from 1-2000 to 1-3000 of an inch, while the diameter of the filament itself may vary from 1-1000 to 1-liOO. The cocoon-^ilk threads are twin tubes laid parallel in the act of spin- ning and glued with more or less uniformity together by the varnish which covers their whole surface. Each filament of this thread varies in diamett^r from l-sno to 1-2500 of an inch, the average breadth being 1-1000 ; but it is variable in different silks. Early History of Oalico Printing. The art of impressing colored piitterns or designs on white cotton cloth seems to be as old almost as historj' itself. Herodotus speaks of a people on the shores of the Caspian Sea who painted the forms of animals on their garments with vegetable dye. Indeed, calico print- ing has been one of the industries of India for centuries, and from there it was introduced into Europe. It was brought to England in 1696, but it was not practiced in Lancashire until about 1768, as its introduction en- countered great opposition from the silk weavers. As early as 1720 a law was passed by Parliament prohibit- ing the wearing of all printed calico whatsoever, although ten years later, by special act of legislation, the manufacture and wearing of printed cloth made of cotton weft and linen warp was permitted. In 1744 Par- liament allowed cloth made entirely of cotton to be printed, but so many burdensome restrictions sur- rounded its manufacture that no very great progress was made until 1831, when all the oppressive laws relat- ing to it were repealed. As early as 1824 the product of printed cottons in the New England States amounted to 60,000 yards per we6k, and in 1860 the product of print cloths in the same States aggregated 271,800,871 yards, or 5,223,000 yards per week, which indicates how rapid has been the progress made in this industry in this country. Eng- land and the United States are the largest producers of calico in the world, although France and Germj*ny make considerable quantities. Calico printing involves a variety of very nice operations : 1. Calendering, or making the cloth smooth and even. 2. Fixing the colors, i.e., the use of substances which have an affinity for both fibre and color. 3. Patterns, madder styles, by printing -the mordant in figures and subsequently producing the colors in dye liquors ; padding, bron:^ing indigo, pencil blue, China blue styles, etc., by printing one component of the color and then passing the cloth through a solution of the other component ; steam colors, spirit colors, aniline black, etc., by printing the color together with the mor- dant, and developing it by air or steam ; resist styles, by printing reserve pastes which protected certain portions of the cloth and prevent the fixing of the color in the subsequent dyeing operations ; discharge styles, by dis- charging the color from portions of the cloth previously dyed. 90 Processes Cotton Cloth in the Gray Undergoes Before It Becomes Printed Calico. When the plain, unbleached cloth is received at the print works, it undergoes the following processes before it can be delivered to the agents as a print : 1, Shearing ; 2, singeing ; 3, bleaching ; 4, preparing; 5, drying ; 6, winding ; 7, printing ; 8, drying ; 9, steaming ; 10, ageing ; 11, soaping ; 12, washing ; 13, drying ; 14, clearing ; 15, drying ; 16, starching ; 17, drying ; 18, inspecting ; 19, calendering ; 20, winding ; 21, measuring ; 22, folding ; 23, pressing ; 24, boxing. To secure good results, high, artistic talent is neces- sary in the designing department, supplemented neces- sarily with personal direction, based upon good artistic judgment and practical knowledge of trade wants. The engraving department must also make fine mechanical work to transfer to the rollers the designs, so they will print perfectly, while the color maker must develop the delicate tones required to make the harmony and blending of colors necessary to make the finished article a success. In the processes following the printing, such as steaming, calendering, etc., the same skillful treatment is necessary as in the preceding work ; and in the final work of inspection, folding, pressing, and ticketing, great care is necessary to put the fabric into the most attractive form for selling. ^t^- How Indigo Prints are Made. Patterns on indigo-dyed goods are produced either by resisting or by discharging; the first method is not so largely used now as formerly, as by the discharging process better and neater impressions can be obtained. The dyeing of cotton cloth in tlie indigo vat has not experienced much change oT late years, except that the continuous dyeing machines have come more promi- nently into use in preference to the round vats formerly employed. The machinery now mostly in use consists of a square tank, generally imbedded in the ground, througli which the cloth is passed in its full widtli over a sj^stem of rollers. As a rule, the reduction on the indigo is eff'ected in tubs, and then the necessary quantity is added to the dye vats. After dyeing, the goods are scoured to remove the lime and other impurities, and well washed and dried, and are then ready for the dis- charging. 91 Bleaching Printing Oloth. The first operation the gray pieces have to undergo before they are bleached is the ^ Stamping.— This is necessary in order that the goods can be recognized after they have been bleached. Then follows the stitching of the pieces to each other, end to end, in order to form a long ribbon, by means of which the cloth is treated in a continuous way. As is well known, cotton cloth contains on its surface a certain amount of light down, consisting of the ends of cotton fibre, and this will have to be removed before the goods are bleached. The removal of this down is of special importance if the goods are afterwards intended to be printed, since these small filaments of cotton would interfere with the formation of clean prints. This down is removed during the operation of Singeing.— This is performed on specially constructed machines, working on the principle of passing very rapidly the pieces over red-hot plates, revolving hot cylinders or gas-burners, which only burn off the small outstanding filaments without touching the cloth, if the operation is well conducted. The gas-singeing machine is now mostly employed, but plate or cylinder singeing still does very good service, and among the newer methods recommended may be mentioned the singeing - by electricity. The goods are washed thoroughly on the washing machine and then allowed to steep or lie in a heap all night. A kind of fermentation sets in, which allows the sizing materials to be removed. Liming. — This operation consists in passing the pieces in a continuous way through milk of lime, the pro- portion of which has been so arranged that the cloth takes up about five per cent, of lime to the weight of cotton. ScouEiNG OR BoiiiiNG.— The pieces are then brought into the kiers by means of machinery. In these they are so arranged that they fill up all the space of the kiers in a regular way, boys entering the vessels and helping in the laying of the cloth in the apparatus by means of sticks. As a rule, all the operations of bleaching are performed on cloth folded up in the form of a rope, this being a very convenient form, especially for running the pieces from one apparatus or machine through the other, but in some cases the cloth is worked quite open, and spread out to its full width. 92 Cost of "Weaving Print Cloths in England and America. The cost of weaving printing cloths in England and America is given as follows : 28 in., 56 reeds, 28 in., GO reeds, 14 picks (G4x63) IG picks (64x64) 58 yards. 58 yards. Englano. Cents. Pence. Cents. Pence. Ashton Under-Lyne.. . 24.G8 12.34 27.70 13.85 Blackburn 25.04 12.52 29.06 14.53 Stockport 25.04 12.52 29.48 14.74 Hyde 25.28 12.68 29.30 14.65 General Average 25.00 12.50 28.88 14.44 America. Rhode Island 16.82 8.41 Unknown. Providence 17.26 8.63 22.30 11.15 Fall River , 19.96 9.98 23.20 11.60 Lowell 19.96 9 98 23 20 11.60 General Average 18.50 9.25 22 90 11.45 The weight of a cloth 28 inches, 56 reed, 14 picks,. 58 yards long, is 7 pounds and 4 ounces, and the cost of weaving in wages per pound, is 0.898 cent, or 0,449d. less in America than in England, while the difference in favor of America in a cloth 28 inches, 60 reed. 16 picks, 58 yards long, weighing 8 pounds and 4 ounces, is 0.726 cent, or 0.363d. per pound. American print cloth is made of coarser yarn than the English, the usual counts being about No. 29 for warp and No. 3f! for weft, while in England they are respectively about No. 31 and No. 41. The usual production at Fall River and Lowell for each loom, per week of sixty hours, is 5^ pieces of 28- inch, 16x16 (64x64), 45 yards, making each loom earn for its attendant 99c., or 4s l^d. It is quite an ordinary thing for eight looms to be worked by one weaver. Printing cloth in America is 28 inches wide and in England 32 inches wide. The former being made of coarser yarn and the latter of finer, makes the foregoing a fair comparison. Two Kinds of Cotton Goods Printers. In both England and this country there are two kinds of cotton goods printers — those who sell direct to the merchants themselves, and those who print the cloth for merchants at piece price. 93 Principal Colors, etc., Used in Dyeing and Printing Cotton Cloth. The aniline colors are divided into basic and acid colorirg matters; the basic products are those which are neutral salts — the combination of an acid with base of the dyestuff itself — while the acid colors are those which have been obtained on the bases of the aniline colors by means of sulphuric acid. As a general rule much faster shades are obtained by means of the basic aniline colors, and these are also much more employed in printing on cotton cloth than the acid colors. Of the colors which can be fixed by steaming, we have, in the first instance, the pigments, then the ani- line or coal tar colors, and the dyewood extracts, among which may be mentioned indigo and some mineral colors. The pigments are fixed by means of albumen, the principle of their fixation relying on the fact that albu- men becomes coagulated by the action of steam, and thus keeps the pigments impressioned in the coagulated substance and permanently fixed on the fibre, so that they cannot be removed either by washing or soaping. The thickenings only react in a mechanical way by keeping the colors on the spots for which they are intended, and preventing them from running. The new class of azo dyestuffs (unlike the others de- rived from coal tar) can be applied on cotton without the aid of mordants, and in a single bath. The azo colors are, without doubt, the richest class of colors derived from coal tar, and have been found especially useful for cotton yarns. Mineral colors are fixed on cotton in two ways — as ready-made pigments, by the aid of a fixing medium, such as albumen, etc, or by applying first the mordant, and afterwards developing the color in another bath. They form a very important group, not so much for printing purposes as in producing white patterns on colored cotton goods, but some of them are largely em- ployed in the finishing processes. They include white pigments, yellow pigments, metallic powders, red pig- ments, green pigments, blue pigments, prussiate blues, brown pigments, blacks and grays, etc. 9A Natural organic coloring matters include logwood, red woods, madder, cochineal, yellow dyestuffs, Persian berries, fustic, tumeric, annatto, cutch or catechu, aloes, indigo, etc. Coal tar colors represent the benzole colors (princi- pally aniline) — aniline, magenta, soluble blues, diphenyl unime, methyl violets, Hoffman's violets, crystal violets, methyl green, methylene blue, aethylene blue, safranine, phosphine, indulines, neutral red and neutral violets, Bismarck brown, chrysoidine, flavantine, etc, Azo colors are victoria blue — auramine, red coraline, the eosines — the soluble azo colors (new class of azo colors) — indo-phenol, artificial indigo, alizarin, alizarin orange, alizarin blue, gallein, cerulein, etc. Mordants comprise alumina mordants, iron mordants, chromium mordants, tin mordants, copper mordants, lead mordants, manganese mordants, zinc mordants, arsenic mordants, antimony mordants, vanadium com- pounds, cereum salts, dunging material, astringents, or tanning materials, soaps, oils, prepared oil mordants, solvents, etc. In some kinds of calico, pieces containing much white are bleached after printing in order to clear the white. This is done by passing the pieces through a weak chlorine bath, and then directly through a steam- ing box; then washed, and either dried or starched, as the case may be. The pieces are often slightly blued with ultramarine. In some cases the mordants are first printed on calico, and the colors fixed by dyeing. Thickening or sizing materials include the various starches — dextrine, gums, tragacanth, albumenoid mat- ters, caseine or lactariue, glue, gelatine, etc. Dj'ewood extract colors are an important class of color- ing matters which are even now very largely used in printing; in fact, from these the steam or extract style derives its name. The most important of these is the logwood extract, v/hich is employed in very large quan- tities for the production of steam blacks^ and in a smaller way for the production of compound shades. Steam mineral colors are chrome yellow, cadmium yellow, iron buff, steam prussiate blue, steam manganese brown, etc. Oxidation colors are aniline black colors and chromed colors, such as calectin, logwood black, Prussian blue, etc., chrome yellow, etc. — Antonio Sansome. 95 Calico Printing Machine. The Calico Printing Machine consists of a large drum, revolv ing on its axis. The drum is covered with several layers of a coarse cloth called lapping, in order to form a kind of elastic cushion. Against this drum is pressed the engraved copper cylinder, which receives the color from a wooden cylinder, cov- ered with cloth, and revolving or dipping in the color trough. In order to remove the surplus color from the copper roller, the so- called doctor is supplied. The latter is simply a sharp blade, which is pressed at an angle on the roller, and scrapes off all the color from the roller except that which is contained in the en- graving. In order to remove any loose threads or filaments the so-called lint-doctor is also supplied, working on the other side of the roller, opposite to the color-doctor. TWELVE-COLOR CALICO PRINTING MACHINE. Cloth to be printed passes between the engraved copper roUer and the drum, and, in order to have an elastic under layer, it is supplied with the blanket, which is a thick, strong cloth, generallj^ made of pure wool, and which is arranged as an endless web, both ends being carefully sewn together. For keeping the blanket clean the hack cloth is allowed to go between the blanket and the printing cloth. The back cloth is simply formed of gray ploth, which has to be bleached and printed in its turn. The three cloths — ^that is, the blanket, the back cloth and the printing cloth — go through at the same time between the drum and the printing roller. The latter gives the color in the engrav- ing over to the printing cloth next to it, and this giving up is caused, first, by the pressure of the printing roller against the drum, and secondly by the action of the lapping and the blanket, which, by forming a kind of elastic cushion, press the print cloth into the engraved cavities of the roller and force the cloth to ab- sorb the color, which is prevented spreading over by the pressure asserted at the time. For each color one roller is necessary, and therefore a pattern containing more than one color or shade requires a separate roller for each, each roller, of course, containing the engraving of the color it has to give up to the cloth, and must be suppUed with the other accessories of doctor, color-trough, cylinder, etc. 96 Additional Points about Calico Printing. It is generally desired to make the dye or colors on calico as permanent as possible, so that they may resist the action of water, soap, soda, and other articles in ordinary domestic use for washing garments, etc., and in this respect cotton, woolen and silken goods vary greatly. The two latter have ordinarily a great affinity for vegetable coloring, with or without the aid of mor- dants. Cotton, on the other hand, has little X)r none independent of mordants ; and, even with them, the colors it receives have little permanency when compared with that shown in dyed stuffs of an animal origin. This fact is familiarly known in the loss of color which even the best dyed cotton dresses, furniture hangings, etc., undergo in the operations of repeated washing. However, the discovery and utilization of coal tar colors in dyeing and printing on cotton have greatly modified or changed the process formerly employed. The latter have the singular property of not requiring a mordant; hence, in nearly every case, they are directly trans- ferred to the cloth, etc., by a simple immersion of it in a suitable solution of the dye. FIXING COLORS ON COTTON CLOTH. To fix the colors derived from a vegetable source on calico, mordants are used. They usually consist of some mineral substance, as the sulphate of iron or copperas, chloride of tin, acetate of lead, alum, etc. They act by uniting with coloring matter of the plant, rendering it insoluble, so as to prevent its being washed away from the article thus dyed. The mordant is only applied in places where a cer- tain color is to be produced. The mordants are fixed on by paste, etc., at certain portions of the cloth, and this being passed through a tub containing the coloring matter, they affect only those parts which have been covered with them, so as to permanently dye them. Any number of vegetable colors may be produced in calico printing by a proper application of mordants, and subsequent immersion in a solution of vegetable coloring matter. Superfluous color is generallj' removed by a weak solution of chloride of lime and abundant washing in water. 97 PRINTED COLORS AND DYED COIjORS. In some instances the mordants are first printed on calicoes and the colors fixed by dyeing, in others by printing and then steaming. Indeed, the method of fixation of the different coloring matters in printing vary considerably according to the nature of the dye- stuffs, but they can be divided into two distinct classes, comprising — 1st. Printed (direct) colors. 2d. Dyed colors. The dye colors are produced either by first printing with mordants, then fixing and dyeing in a bath with coloring matters ; or the cloth is dyed all over and designs produced by the resisting or discharging pro- cesses. The printed or direct colors are applied at once on the cloth, and fixed by .different methods, relying either on the steaming, oxidation, or reduction process, etc., and are therefore styled steam or oxidation colors. All dyestuffs capable of being fixed on cotton cloth by means of mordants can be employed for dyeing cloth on which the mordants are printed, and this plan is sometimes followed, but not so much since the devel- opment of steam colors. AGEING, DUNGING AND FIXING PROCESSES. The ageing process has for its object the decomposing of the acetates, so that acetic acid is driven off and a basic insoluble product is deposited on the fibre. For this the steam ageing apparatus is now successfully used, the cloth passing rapidly through it, and exposed for about two minutes to a temperature of 185° F. The ageing process is followed by the so-called dunging or fixing process. This operation consists simply in passing the cloth in a continuous manner through an apparatus or cistern containing the dunging liquors. The object of this is — first of all to eomplete precipita- tion of the insoluble compound on the fibre, and at the same time the removing of the thickening, and also any portion of the mordant which has not been fixed on the fibre. The brightening process consists in treating the cloth with a so-called acid soaj). 98 topicaij, resist and discharge processes. At times colors are printed on calico topica lly; that is, they are applied, mixed with gum, etc., directly on the cloth. By this method the dye is imprinted on at once, and no further manipulation is required. On the other hand, resists, or substances which prevent the action of the dye on cloth, are used; and places so marked return a white appearance, or that of the " ground " already dyed. Another method which is often employed in calico printing is that of "discharging." If, for example, a piece of black cotton cloth be marked over by blocks covered with a paste containing tartaric or eitric acid, wherever the latter touches the cloth, its color will be removed.or "discharged," and thus white spots are pro- duced on the black ground. Numerous modifications of this principle with other discharging agents, and various coloring matters, are of frequent use for pro- ducing colored patterns on an even-dyed ground. In the discharging process the goods are padded all over, or on one side only, with mordant and dried, and afterwards the discharge is printed on, which, by dis- solving the iron or alumina mordant where it is applied, prevents any color from being formed there, and there- fore causes the production of white spots on colored grounds when the goods are dyed in alizarin, etc. Still another method is found in cases where the same mordant produces various colors with different coloring matters. EXTRACT STYLES. The steaming method is generally known as the extract style, and, as a rule, the majority of alizarin steam colors — reds, pinks, purples, chocolates, browns, etc. — are fast, being printed on cloth previously prepared with oleine or alizarin oil. Alizarin reds and pinks are also printed with alumina mordants, purples with iron, and chocolates with mixtures of iron and alumina mordants. In fact, alizarin is fixed on calico by two distinct methods, either by dyeing or j)rinting. In the latter case steaming is necessary for the development of the shades. 99 PADDING AND MADDER STYLES. The so-called padding styles in calico printing are, in reality, a modification of the madder styles or alizarin dyed colors, and, although not used so largely as for- merly, are still employed in print works to a certain extent. The madder styles, which were atone time very largely used, have not been much in vogue the last few years, but prints in which dyed alizarin red enters have been, and are now, very extensively produced, especially for designs of red and aniline black on white grounds. In printing works the practice of steaming varies considerably. While aniline colors generally are steamed, sometimes at about four pounds pressure, alizarin steam reds are sometimes steamed at much higher pressure, some printers maintaining that at much higher pressure better colors are the result. Starchy substances are generally employed as thick- eners, or as sizing or finishing materials in printed cot- tons, such as wheat starch, rice starch, Indian or maize starch, potato starch or farina starch, wheat flour, gums, albumens, glues, gelatines, etc. PIGMENTS AND KED WOODS. The pigment colors now generally used are the iollowing: First in importance is ultramarine, then chrome orange, chrome and cadmium yellow, chrome green, vermillion, huiff or oxide of iron, ochre, burnt sienna, lampblack, etc. These can be fixed by steaming, as also the aniline or coal tar colors and the dye wood extracts. Eed woods are not now often used as self-colors, but they are still used to a great extent in compound shades, principally for the production of chocolates, browns, etc. Since the lowering in price of artificial alizarin the chocolates derived from the red dye-wood have lost a great deal of their importance, the more so as the pro- duction of these chocolates with alizarin, on red or purple colors of the print works, are mixed together, the shades being modified according to requirement by the addition of dye wood extracts, etc. The extracts of dye woods are also very extensively used for the pro- duction of fancy or light shades of great variety. 100 COAIi TAR COIiOBS. The coloring matters derived from coal tar are of three kinds: The 6enzoZ coZors, which comprise all the aniline dyes, and also the carbolic acid or phenol dyestuffs; the naphthaline colors, which comprise the azo products, and the anthracene derivatives, principally alizarin, etc. Coal tar colors now form the most important class of dye products used in printing. For calico printing the aniline and the anthracene colors are of the utmost im- portance, while those derived from naphthaline, princi- pally the azo colors, are only employed to a moderate extent in printing, on account of the difficulty or impos- sibility of obtaining fast shades with these products. One of the great difficulties at first experienced in the printing of aniline was the liability of the color either to turn to a greenish hue by exposure, owing to the effect of the sulphurous acid, or the danger of rottening the fabric. These difficulties, however, are not so much encountered now as formerly. MINERAL COLORS, ETC. Mineral colors are fixed on cotton in two ways— as ready-made pigments, by the aid of a fixing medium, or by applying first the mordant and afterwards developing the color in another bath. The dyeing of cotton cloth in the indigo vat has not experienced much change in late years, except that the continuous dyeing machines have come more promi- nently into use in preference to the round vats formerly employed. White patterns under aniline black are now often pro- duced by padding the goods with aniline black color, then printing on alkaline resist, and afterwards exposing the goods to ageing in the usual way. The acid colors are not so much employed in calico printing as the aniline basic dyestuffs ; the aniline blues, however, are pretty largely used, and they sup- ply shades which will stand even lukewarm soaping, and are also very bright, but they do not come up in the point of fastness. Iron steam blacks are not now so much employed as formerly. There are now some logwood preparations which yield some very good steam blacks. 101 DYEWOOD, EXTRACTS, ETC. Indeed the most important of the dyewood extracts in calico printing is still the logwood extract, which is employed in very large quantities for the production of steam blacks, and in a smaller way in the production of compound shades. The brands of alizarins generally used for steam reds are those of yellow shades, because they give a color which is more pleasing to the eye, as can be easily understood. Turkey red goods, obtained by the discharging process after dyeing, are produced in very large quantities. The cloth is first of all dyed Turkey red, and then the pat- terns are produced by discharging, and thus whites, yellows, blues, greens and blacks are obtained on red grounds. Violets and greens produce deep blue colors on cali- coes, and are extensively used for the purpose in print works, but the shades obtained are not as bright as those produced by some other methods. Olive greens are very largely employed in steam color printing, and are mostly produced by means of log- wood, berry extracts, etc. — Extracts from " Calico Print- ing." Price of Domestic G-inghams in 1818. Extract of letter from Samuel Slater, Jr., of New Povidence, R. I., to J. & M. Brown, Philadelphia, Pa,, August 14, 1818 : •' A Providence friend of mine sent me a letter to-day which he had recently received from his correspondent in Philadelphia, stating that you, he and others, could not obtain more than about /Mr^?/ cents for good ging- hams, on a credit of four to six months." 102 The Calender. This is a machine for smoothing or hot-pressing cotton fabrics between rollers to give them a glossy appear- ance. The domestic processes of starching and ironing afford simple illustration of the object and resiilt of calendering. The mangle effects the same object as the flat-iron, and is a near approach in construction to the calendering machine. The latter was originally of wood. Hollow iron and copper cylinders are used where heat as well as pressure are requii-ed, the cylinders being heated by steam passed through the interior, or by red-hot heaters; but it is desirable that one of the cylinders shall be of a material combining considerable hardness with a degree of elasticity; for this purpose solid paper cylinders are used. Before the final calendering the fabric is flatly smoothed by passing over warm cylinders. Cotton goods are starched with flour, thickened with plaster of Paris, porcelain clay, etc., to give them the appearance of stoutness, which of course vanishes when the article is washed. The fabric is then simply passed between plain cylinders, which produces the desired effect by flattening the threads; .when, by means of a cylinder with a pattern raised upon it, the amount of this flatten- ing is unequal on different parts of the cloth, the effect known as watering is the result. Glazing is produced by the rollers being made to move with different velocities, so that one side of the fabric is rubbed as well as pressed by the roller whose surface moves with greater rapidity. A copper roller is used for glazing, so hot that if the machine stops it burns the goods. 103 Finishing Printed Cottons. The finishing of printed cotton fabrics is a very im- portant question, as upon the way the goods have been finished depends, to a great extent, their saleable value. With the exception of Turkey red prints, and some kind of indigoes, all printed goods are subjected to the finishing operations. The finish varies considerably, according to the styles, and especially according to the markets for which the goods are intended; and finishing is a branch of indus- try which can only be learned by practice, therefore we shall only treat of the principle here, and indicate the apparatus usually employed. For some goods no stiff- ening is required, while for others a starching all over is necessary; but prints are, as a rule, only starched at the back. In some instances a lustre is required on the cloth, while on others only a matt finish is wanted. The starching of prints all over is performed on the starching machines, and is still in principle the old arrangement of a frame supporting three rollers, one of brass or copper between two of hard wood. The cloth, after passing through a trough, is squeezed by passing between the copper and the wooden rollers to remove the excess of starch; the cloth is then dried on the dry- ing machine, and in order to give smoothness is passed through the mangle or calender. The starch is simply prepared by boiling starch in a pan, often only by direct steam in a tub, and can be made thinner or thicker ac- cording to requirements. Sago flour and potato starch are, as a rule, preferred by the finisher, but mixtures are found in the market suitable for special purposes. In boiling the starch a low temperature gives better results than a hard boil- ing. To impart a more pleasing appearance to goods containing white, a small quantity of blue, principally ultramarine, is added to the starch, and, as a rule, also a softening, such as soap, tallow, etc., and for some pur- 104 poses glycerine, which is the best material that can be used for the purpose. Often China clay and other white pigments are added to the starch, in order to give arti- ficial weight and to fill the cloth. The hack starching machine is largely used now in the finishing of modern prints; it relies on the principle of a roller revolving in a starch trough, taking up starch on its surface, and giving it to the cloth, which is passed in full width over it. The drying of this back starched cloth is also performed on the cylinders or tins, which are provided with a special arrangement of skeleton wooden cylinders, in order to allow only the surface without the starch to touch the heated cylinder until the starch is sufficiently dry to be passed to the set of cylinders in the ordinary manner. The Stretching. — For widening the pieces which have been stretched only in the direction of the length by the different operations of bleaching and printing, sev- eral arrangements are devised, working on different principles, such as with grooved cylinders, etc., or on the principle of widening, or as in the so-called sienter- ing machine, by the arrangement of a long frame, the widening performed by means of endless traveling bands containing pins or clamps on both sides of the pieces. The Calender is of different construction, but it con- sists in principle of an intermediate iron bowl, and two other bowls, generally made of paper or compressed cotton, which assert a very heavy pressure on the cloth, which passes around the iron bowl, and consequently between this and consecutively one and the other of the bowls, which assert a heavy pressure on the interme- diate iron, one by means of screws or other suitable arrangements. The iron bowl is generally made hollow, in order that it may be heated by steam, or sometimes by means of heated cannon balls or gas. The friction calender or mangle, which is often required to impart a higher gloss to the goods, works on the principle of two paper bowls, with an iron one on top, and this latter, besides asserting a heavy pressure on the other two, is made to revolve at a higher speed than they do, and thus a friction is caused on the cloth. — Cotton Mfg. 105 Engraved Copper Cylinder and Blocks in Calico Printing. Baines thus describes the engraved copper cylinder used in calico printing : " A polished copper cylinder, several feet in length (ac- cording to the width of the piece of cotton cloth to be printed), and three or four inches in diameter, is en- graved with a pattern round its whole circumference, and from end to end; it is then placed horizontally in the press, or printing machine, and, as it revolves, the lower part of the circumference passes through the col- oring matter, which is again removed from the whole surface of the cylinder, except the engraved pattern, by an elastic steel blade, placed in contact with the cylin- der, and reduced to so fine and straight an edge as to take off the color without scratching the copper. " The color being thus left only on the engraved pat- tern, the piece of cotton cloth is drawn tightly over th6 cylinder, which revolves in the same direction, and prints the cloth. After the piece is printed it passes over several metallic boxes, heated by steam, which dry it. A piece of cloth may be thus printed and dried in one or two minutes, or in even shorter time, which, by the old method, would have required the application of the block 448 times. " Two, three, four, or even twenty cylinders may be used at the same time in one machine (according to its size and construction), each cylinder having engraved upon it a different portion of the pattern, and being supplied with a different color. The piece of cloth passes over them successively, and receives the entire pattern almost in the same moment. To produce the same effect by hand-block printing would require 896, 1.344, 1,792, or 2,240 applications of the blocks, accord- ing as two, three, four or five cylinders are employed." ^■^ Pirst Cotton Goods Made in England. The first cotton goods of English make in which both the warp and weft were wholly or entirely of cotton, were made at Derby, in 1773. After a considerable quantity of these goods had been made, the manufac- turers discovered that an existing law imposed not only a double duty upon them when printed, but also pro- hibited the sale of them in the home market. 106 How Copper EoUers for Printing Calico are Engraved. The copper roller used in the calico printing machine is a hollow cylinder, from J inch to 1^ inches in thick- ness, and is mounted on an iron axis to revolve and be pressed against the iron drum of the machine. The engraving of copper rollers is done sometimes by hand, but more often by mechanical or chemical process. The mechanical method, or mill engraving, relies on the following principle : The pattern to be engraved is cut by hand on a small cylinder of soft steel, which is then subjected to the. process of hardening, and the design is then produced on another soft steel cylinder by a heavy rolling pressure on specially constructed machinery. The second cylinder is then utilized to produce the design on the copper roller, on which it is pressed by heavy pressure on suitable machines, when the copper, being softer, easily takes the impression, the design being repeated all over the roller wherever required. In the chemical process, or etching method, the copper roller is covered all over with a layer of varnish, on which the design is cut through by a sharp point moved by means of a pentagraph machine, according to the design required; the varnish is removed by the sharp point, and the copper is laid bare. The roller is then immersed, or rather allowed to revolve for a short time in a bath of weak nitric acid — sometimes along with chromic acid, when the copper is, to a certain extent, dissolved in the portions not protected by the varnish — and etched to a sufficient depth to carry the necessary amount of color. It is finally washed and dried, and after the varnish has been removed the roller is, if necessary, polished, and is ready for printing. No Sheetings, Shirtings, Cingliams, etc., Made in the United States Before 1790. According to the most reliable historical and manu- facturing authorities, no cotton sheetings, shirtings, ginghams, or checks, were made in the United States prior to the year 1790. All such classes of goods then used by our people were imported, being of English manufacture, and of linen warp, with cotton weft. 107 Steam Styles of Prints. Many Print Works doing steam styles have left off the boiling in lime, which was usually the first treat- ment in bleaching, contenting themselves with a good soda boil and an increased strength of bleaching powder before the final scouring, and the result is their whites are only passable. The goods will do for the lower class of steam work, but alizarine red and pinks do not show up well. The cloth is not thoroughly bottomed, and will not serve for dyed styles. It seems true, what old bleachers maintain, that for a thorough cleansing from the bottom, the lime boil is quite necessary. Progress in Cotton Spinning and Weaving. Great progress has been made in this country in spinning and Weaving fabrics of Nos. 60 to 100, such as lawns and fine dress goods ; also spinning fine yarns for spool cotton. Yarns as fine as 80 to 180 are now spun on ring-spinning frames, which are being more largely used for warp-spinning than any other. This machine was invented here, and is now also used in Europe. Yarns as fine as 650 are spun on mules for three-cord sewing cotton. The cotton factories of the Carolinas and Georgia are said to have twice the advantage of Lancashire that New England possesses. Cloth Selvages. Nothing adds more to the appearance of a piece of cloth than a good selvage. Whether the cloth is to be used by the consumer in a gray, or in some finished state, a good selvage is equally a desideratum. " In those countries where gray calicoes are used for clothing, with- out passing through the hands of tailors or dressmakers, where civilization has made more or less progress, an even, clean selvage is, necessarily, of vital importance. In goods which undergo some process of finishing be- fore they are purchased by the consumers, the qualities required to form a perfect selvage have to be considered from another standpoint. In these goods the selvages are usually cut away when the material is being made up into a garment. Ladies, however, when purchasing goods, whether made of silk, wool or cotton, hesitate be- fore buying a piece of material which is bordered by even one ragged selvage, rightly judging that a manu- facturer who would be content to produce cloth thus imperfectly made, could not be trusted to turn out pieces free from imperfections between the selvages." 108 Influence of Ligtt on Dyed Colors. The chemical activity of the sun's rays is well known, and certain unstable mordant solutions seem to be decomposed and precipitated more readily under the influence of light. It is not surprising, therefore, to find that light should also have a very marked effect upon dyed colors. Under the prolonged influence of light and air almost all colors fade, and according to their relative behavior in this respect they are broadly divided into two classes, namely, those which are "fast to light" and those which are "not fast to light." Each of the colored rays of the spectrum possesses a different fading power. White light is the most active, then follow the yellow, blue, green, orange, violet and red rays. Direct sunlight is more energetic than dif- fused daylight. The light of the electric art acts in the same sense as sunlight, but is less powerful. According to the best authorities on colors, the presence of oxygen and moisture assists very materially in the fading action of light, so that even some fugitive colors, dyed, for example, with safflower, anuatto, orchid, do not fade if exposed to light in dry oxygen, or in vacuo. Definition of Tones, Scales and Hues of Colors. Tone of a color is intended exclusively to designate the various modifications which that color, in its greatest intensity, is capable of receiving from white, which lowers its tone, or of Hack, which heightens it. Scale is applied to the assemblage of tones of the same color thus modified. The pure color is the normal tone of the scale, that is, if the normal tone does not belong to a scale of which all the tones are made dull with black. Hue is applied exclusively to the modifications which a color receives from the addition of a small quantity of another. Colors are distinguished as pure, broken, reduced, gray or dull. Pure colors are those termed simple, as red, yellow, blue, and those which result from their binary compounds, orange, green, violet and other hues. Broken colors are the pure colors mixed with black, from the tone of the lightest to the deepest. — Chevreul. 109 Electricity in Printing Cottons. The application of the electrical current to the pro- duction of coloring matters, or for the fixation of dye- stu£fs in dyeing and calico printing, according to San- sone, has attracted considerable attention in the last few years at the hands of chemists. " The application of electricity for the developing or fixing coloring matters is based upon the chemical pro- cesses largely utilized in printing, viz., oxidation and reduction, and when it is remembered that' both pro- cesses can be separately effected by the electrical cur- rent, we can easily imagine that all the colors which can be produced by oxidation or reduction ought to be ob- tained by the electrical process. " Consequently we have of the oxidation colors or of the methods relying on oxidation, the following: Ana- line black, persulphocyanogen yellow (canarin), the discharge of indigo or turkey red, and the formation of some coloring matters, such as alizarin from anthra- quinone, etc., the bleaching of vegetable fibres and formation of oxycellulose being also possible by the same process. " In the reduction processes, of course, is concluded the preparation of an indigo vat for dyeing, and the investigator has also tried to print indigo in a direct way on calico, by utilizing the reducing action of the current in the color box. He has also aimed at pro- ducing an electrical printing machine, by which colors could be fixed on calico by the electrolitic direct pro- cess, but, as said before, we must wait awhile before we can pass any judgment over the feasibility of electrical application in calico printing. " So far, however, electricity has been utilized in calico printing, but in a different manner from the galvan- oplastic processes, and depositing either copper or iron shell rollers, thus producing printing rollers with a copper layer at a very low cost; or for the commonly called galvanizing process, by coating the ordinary cop- per roller with a thin layer of nickel, in order to render them more liable to stand acid colors. The gilding of copper rollers has scarcely ever been employed, but considering the low cost of depositing a very thin film of gold, which can be done by the modern galvanoplas- tic process, it is a matter well worth trying for those roll- ers which are used for printing very acid colors." 110 Calico in the rorm of Sateen. Calico in its new form and under the name of sateen, is the same fabric, with the same material and process of printing, except that sateen is woven on three, four or five harness, which enables the manufacturer to make what is called a warp or satin face. French sateen is, in weaving parlance, " quarter satin " — both these fabrics take their name from the method or manner of weaving. .Satin is woven on sixteen harness, with fifteen threads up every time a filling pick is thrown in ; while sateen is woven on four harness, usually with three -warp threads up every time a filling pick goes in. Cotton Industry of the World in 1888. The following figures are given for the spindles, looms and thread-spindles of the industrial countries of the world in 1888: Spindles— England, 42,740,000; Euro- pean Continent, 23,380,000; United States, 13,525,000; East India, 2,490,000; total, 82,135,000. There were be- sides, in Canada, Mexico and South - America some 600,000, and in Japan, 100,000; grand total, 82,825,000. On the European Continent, Germany occupied the first place with about 5,500,000 spindles, France being second with 5,200,000. The total number of mechanical looms in Europe in 1888 was estimated at 1,000,000, of which about 600,000 were in England. Effect of Heat on Cotton Fabrics. Recent experiments have shown that cotton may be heated to 248 deg. F., for three hours, without apparent injury. The same may be said of printed cottons. The same temperature, however, will, if continued for a longer period, slightly change the color of cotton, but will not otherwise injure it, ^9^ Cotton Consumed in Manufacturing. The estimated annual consumption of cotton in Eng- land, for the past ten years, has been 1,416,440,000 pounds, as against 770,343,200 pounds for the United States. England requires rather more cotton than all the rest of the Continent of Europe put together, the total of the combined countries amounting to no more than 1,295,600,000 pounds annually. Ill 112 Early Britisli Oottou Industries. The quantity of cotton imported into England, ac- cording to tlie custom-house returns of that countrj^ from 1701 to 1800, inclusive, is given as follows: Tears. Pounds. Years. Pounds. 1701 1,985,868 1751 2,976,610 1701 to 1705— av. 1,170,881 1764 3,870,392 1710 715,008 1771 to 1775 4,764,589 1720 1,972,805 1776 to 1780 6,766,613 1730 1,545,472 1790 31,447,605 1741 1,645,031 1800 56,010,732 EXPORTS OF COTTONS FEOM 1701 TO 1800. The value of British cottons exported from 1701 to 1800, inclusive, was as below: OFFICIAL VALUE. Years. £. Years. £. 1701 23,253 1764 200,354 1710 5,698 1766 220,759 1720 16,200 1780 355,060 1730 13,524 1787 1,101,457 1741 20,709 1790 1,662,359 1751 45,986 1800 5,406,501 COTTON CONSUMED IN ENGLAND IN 1787. The purposes for which cotton was used in the year 1787 are thus stated: Pounds. Calicoes and Muslins 11,600,000 Fustians 6,000 000 Mixtures with silk and linen 2,000,000 Hosiery 1,500,000 Candlewicks 1,500,000 Total 22,600,000 VALUE OF ENGLISH COTTON MANUFACTUBES IN 1767 AND 1787. The value of English cotton manufactures in 1767 and 1787 is shown in the annexed table: 1767 £600,000 1787 3,304,371 The above shows an increase in the twenty years of 5^ fold. In 1787 the number of cotton mills in Eng- land was 119, and in Scotland, Wales, and Isle of Man, 24, making altogether 143 mills or factories. ENGLISH AND SCOTCH COTTON POWER LOOMS IN 1820 AND 1829. In 1820 and 1829, the number of cotton power looms in England and Scotland was given as below: 1820. 1829. In England 12,150 45,500 In Scotland 2,000 10,000 Total 14,150 55,500 113 COTTON POWER LOOMS OF GRKAT BRITAIN IN 1833. In 1833 the showing of cotton power looms in Great Britain was as follows: In England 85,000 In Scotland , 15,000 Total 100,000 EARLY RESTRICTIONS ON CALICO PRINTING IN ENGLAND. As regards calico printing in England, the business was subjected to onerous duties and vexatious excise regulations from its infancy to 1831. In 1700, Act 11 and 12, T. illiam III., Cap. 10, forbade the introduction of Indian printed calicoes into !Eng- land, for domestic use, either as apparel or furniture, under penalty of £200 on the wearer or seller; other acts for the same purpose were passed at a later date. In their petition to His Majesty's Privy Council for trade in 1831, the natives of Bengal, India, state that Bengal cottons, when used in England, are charged with a duty of 10 per cent. There was also levied up to that time in England an excise duty on English printed calicoes of 3^d. per yard. In 1712 Parliament imposed an excise duty of 3d. per square on "calicoes printed," stained, painted, or dyed," and in 1714 the duty was raised to 6d. per square yard. In 1720 Parliament prohibited the use or wear of any printed or dyed calicoes whatsoever, whetjtier printed at home or abroad, and even of any goods in which cotton found a part; excepting only " calicoes dyed all blue, and muslins, heck cloths, and fustians." In 1736 (by the 9th, George II., C. 4,) so much of the act of 1720 was repealed as forbade the use or wear of printed goods of a mixed kind containing cotton; and thenceforth cloths were made and printed of linen warp and cotton weft, probably approaching in appearance to calicoes. In 1774 Parliament removed the prohibition as re- gards English calicoes and allowed them to be printed on paying an excise duty of 3d. per square jard. In 1779 and^l782 three several additions of 5 per cent., making on the whole 15 per cent., were made to that duty. 114 DUTIES ON COTTONS AND MIXED GOODS IN 1784. In 1784, the Act 24, George III., C. 40, laid a new duty on all cottons and mixed goods of Id. per yard, of bleached or printed, under 3s. per yard in value, and 2d. on all above that value — in addition to the former duties of 3d. per yard; and 15 per cent, additiona was charged on new duties as well as on the old. In 1785, owing to the opposition of the cotton manu- facturers, a short bill (25, Geo. III., C. 24,) was passed by Parliament, repealing all the new duties imposed by the previous bill on the linen and cotton manufactures. By the 25, Geo. III., C. 72, all cottons, muslins, and stuffs of which cotton formed a part, when printed, painted, dyed, or stained, were made liable to an ad- ditional duty of 2d. per yard, if of the value of Is. 8d. and not more than 3s, per yard; and to a duty of 4d. per yard, if worth more than 3s. The addition of 15 per cent, was also charged upon these duties, as well as upon the duty of 3d. per yard imposed in 1774. There- fore the duties stood thus: ADDED DUTIES ON COTTONS IN 1785, Duty Additional 15 per cent. imposed imposed on the Total in 1774. in 1785. whole. Duty. Per yard. Per yard. Per yard. Per yard. Above the value of Is. 8d., and not above 3s. per yard. ..... 3d. 2d. fd. 5|d. Above the value of 3s. per yard. 3d. 4d. lid. 8id. CONSOLIDATION OF BRITISH CUSTOMS IN 1787. On the consolidation of the British customs in 1787 all former duties were repealed, and cotton, linen, or mixed goods of any kind were subjected to a duty of 3^d. per square yard, when printed or dyed. The whole duty was returned by drawback on the exporta- tion of the goods. At the same time, foreign calicoes and muslins were charged with a duty of 7d. per square yard, when printed or dyed in Great Britain. The duties fixed in 1787 continued till 1831, when, on the earnest representations of the calico printers, .thej' were entirely remitted, and released the trade from the shackles of the excise. 115 BRITISH CALICOES AND MUSLINS PRINTED IN 1796 AND 1800. The calicoes and muslins printed in Great Britain in 1796 and 1800 were as follows: Bate of 1796. 1800. In England. Duty, yards. yards. Foreign calicoes and muslins. 7d. 1,750,270 1,577,536 British " * ♦* •' 3|d. 24,363,240 28,692,790 In Scotland. Foreign calicoes and muslins. 7d. 141,403 78,868 British «' " *' 3id. 4,258,557 4,176,939 EXPORTATION AND CONSUMPTION OF BRITISH CALICOES, ETC., IN 1814, 1820, AND 1830. The accompanying table gives the printing, home consumption, and exportation of British calicoes, mus- lins, etc., in 1814, 1820, and 1830. (The average duty per piece was 5s., which, when exported, was refunded). Consumed Printed. at home. Exported. Years. Pieces. Pieces. Pieces. 1814 5,192,228 1,868,068 3,324,160 1820 5,456,196 1,728,340 3,727,820 1825 8,140,876 2,015,972 4,082,684 1830 8,596,952 2,281,512 6,315,440 SELLING PRICES OF COTTON IN ENGLAND IN 1780. In 1780, the prices at which cotton sold in England are given as follows: Per Pound. B. d. Berbice 2 1 Demarara 1 11 to 2s. Id. Surinam 2 Cayenne ' 2 St. Domingo 1 10 Tabago 1 9 Jamaica 1 7 Isle of Bourbon 7 6 to 10s. ■ ^ > » ■ Three Operations in Dyeing Cotton. The dyeing of cotton usually requires three distinct operations, namely, the impregnation of the fibre: first with tannic acid, secondly with nitrate of iron, stamic chloride, or tartar emetic, and thirdly, with the solution of coloring matter, 116 Cotton Manufacturing Districts of Great Britain. Blackburn is the most northern of those districts in England which take an important part in the cotton goods industry. It takes the lead in Lancashire, with regard to its importance as an exclusively cotton manu- facturing town, says Prof. Brooks. The class of goods made there are of a plain character, principally shirtings, mulls and jaconets, while a large number of looms are engaged on dhooties. Darwen weaving industry is of a similar character, and there is a fair trade in yarn by several sale-spinning mills, Preston and Chorley have a connection with goods of a distinctly finer and more " fancy" character, such as leno, velveteen, damasks, embroidery and brocades, while the plain trade, including the well-known home made shirting, is important. Here also the spinning trade is comparatively small, the yarns spun being 40 — 80's T and 4:0-90's W. Burnley is remarkable for the recent increase of cot- ton manufacturing within its borough, and has a most extensive trade in Burnley printers and shirtings, with a few heavy twills ranking second to Blackburn in quantity produced. Accrington, Harwood and district have a plain trade, but in yarns the goods are of a much finer character than other plain districts. A large business is done in the better classes of printers for the supply of the local print and dyeworks. Bolton has centered in it the spinning of medium fine yarns, 40 — 200's, from Egyptian cotton, also the manufacture of heavy fancy goods, especially Alhambras, Marseilles, and other counterpanes and towels, with some finer fancies of leno, damasks and velvets, although many mills are to be found engaged in Blackburn goods. Haslingden, Bacup, Kawtenstall, and many smaller districts in East Lancashire are engaged in manufac- tures of coarse and heavily-sized goods, shirtings, T- cloths, wigans and domestics. Manchester, while being pre-eminently the English market of the manufactured cotton goods, is also known as the locality where the finest yarns known to com- merce are spun, i.e., yarns from Egypt and Sea Island cottons, 80— 200's in twists and 80— 350's in weft. The 117 finer numbers, however, are not used for the ordinary purposes of manufacturing, their consumption being divided between the lace curtain manufactories of Not- tingham and the great sewing thread factories. The "weaving trade of Manchester consists of checks, ginghams, Harvard and Oxford shirtings mostly. Oldham is the spinning town. Here the coarsest yarns, 4:-24's, made out of the waste from finer mills, have their spinning centre, and here the spinning of medium yarns from American cotton has made the name of the town familiar wherever English cotton yarn is known. Rochdale depends mainly on the coarse trade, 12-24 wraps (water T) made from Indian cotton, together with some mule spinning up to 30-40's. The weaving of the heaviest cotton goods from waste, twills, sheets, T-cloths, velveteens, fustian and cords is here carried on. Mossley, 30-50's, wrap yarn ; Shaw Lees, Eoyton, Dukinfield, Ashton, Heywood and Hyde, may be placed in the same category as Oldham, minus the waste trade. Stalybridge spins 30-150's. Stockport has good trade in spinning, as high as ISO's gassed and doubled yarns with varied weaving, includ- ing the well-known Turkish towels. Cotton weaving extends no further into Yorkshire than Todmordeo, and about 2,000,000 spinning and doubling spindles are in use about Halifax, Brighouse, Sowery Bridge and district, these being employed on yarns for dress fabrics made of a mixture of cotton and worsted, as well as for cotton and hosiery in the Not- tingham and Leicester districts. In Scotland the cotton trade is confined to the coun- ties of Lanark, Renfrew and Ayr. The doubling spindles there are on the increase, especially for the Paisley thread trade. The weaving department is also increas- ing, there being in 1888 in the three counties 28,853 looms, as compared with 20,963 in 1856. Superior classes of cloth are made for the home trade — fine reeds, fine muslin, plain and figured — and the manufacture of Turkey reds is also extensive. In Ireland there are three cotton-spinning firms, three cotton-weaving firms, and one both spinning and weaving, with a total of 70,900 spindles and 2,501 power looms. Summarizing the different classes of work into which the cotton industry of England is divided, we may allot to the coarse plain trade the Rossendale Valley and Rochdale, locating the medium plain trade in Black- burn, Burnley and Darwen, with the finest plain goods in Accrington and Preston, the light fancy trade in Preston, Chorley and Ashton, and the heavy fancy in Bolton and Bury. — British Cotton Mfg. 118 Varieties of British Cotton Cloth. The principal makes of British cotton cloth are given by C. P. Brooks, M. S. A., as follows: SHIKTINGS. Shirtings are heavily-sized goods, 125 per cent, not being nnusiial. The widths vary from 38 to 50 inches, length always 37J yards, long stick, Keed and pick from 12 square to 16x15. These goods are made to weight thus : A 39-inch, 16x15, weighs 8 lb. ; a 45-inch, 9 lb. ; a 50-inch, 10 lb. Various kinds are made, some medium-sized. What is known as Indian shirting is the heavy-sized class. Shirtings are exported to India, China, Japan, Turkey, Italy, Levant. A good class is made, bleached, and exported to Egypt, Japan, India and China, as white shirtings. DHOOTIES. Dhooties are shirtings ornamented by stripes of graj' or colored yarn, and in suitable lengths for Hindoo loin cloths. The stripes are of a Varied character in gray dhooties, being simply tape edges formed by cramping gray or bleached yarn at the selvage. In colored dhoo- ties, stripes of vari-colored warps are introduced about an inch from the edge of the cloth, and varying from ^ an inch in width to 4 inches, sometimes being intro- duced at intervals all across the piece. A range of dhooties includes all widths from 22 to 50 inches, and the length of scarf varying from 2 yards in the smaller size to 5 yards in the larger. A scarf is the distance between the headings, which in these goods is very extensive, sometimes reaching to 20 inches in length at the junction of the two scarfs : A Eange — 22 inches and 23 inches 2-yard scarf. 24 " 25 " 2^ " 26 *' 28 " 3 " 29 ',' 32 " 3J " " 35 inches , 4 " The higher widths being variously 4^ or 5 yards. Dhooties are made up in about 40-yard lengths; thiis a piece 44 inches wide would contain 4 double scarfs. The 5'arns employed vary similarly to shirtings, from 30s to 40s warp, 36s to 60s wefts. 119 HINDOO AND JAVANESE CLOTHS. The dress of a male Hindoo consists of a dhootie con- taining 4 square yards, a doputtaof 8 square yards, and a turban of 12 square yards, while in addition the Hin- doo woman wears a sarrie, a similar cloth to the dhootie. India is the recipient of the dhooties in greatest quan- tity. Savongs go to Java ; patadiongs to the Philippines. To this class of shirtings belong long-cloths, mediums, wigans (plain and twill), double wraps and twills. Ex- port long cloths arc plain goods, shirting style, 36 yards long, generally 36 inches wide, 12 square, medium size. T CLOTHS, MEXICANS AND MADAPOIiLAMS. T-cloths are always 24 yards in length, of coarse yarns, heavily sized, from 28 to 32 inches wide, 12x10 to 16x16, 4 lb. and 6 lb. in weight. Domestics for export are from 28 to 39 inches, 60, 72, 80 or 96 yards. Warp, 18-24's; weft 16-40's; and from 14 to 16 reed and pick; medium to heavy size. A better class is made for the home trade. Mexicans are of better quality than the foregoing, and are always above 17x17 reed and pick, yarns, twist, coarse; weft, medium; medium size; 28 to 32 inches in width. Madapollams are lighter in reed and pick than the foregoing, being about 11 and 12 square: width 28 to 32 inches, and similar in length to the T-cloths and Mexi- cans ; sized medium. TURKEY BEDS AND PBINTEBS. Dyeing and printing cloths form an important de- partment. Turkey reds, like printers, are cloths of good quality. Shirting counts and widths, but about twice the length; pure size. Printers, Burnley make, sometimes dubbed Burnley lumps, are 32 inches, 116 yards, 16x16, 32's to 50's yarn. Quality important, yarns good, lightly sized, warps even and hard twisted, weft free from unevenness, snarls, etc. Glossop printers, 36 inches, 19x22 ; 50 yards, llf lbs. These are not the only descriptions of printers, coarse cloth of varied dimensions being required, which, when stamped with patterns of every conceivable style, are exported to India, Persia, Italy, Brazil, -Levant, Java and Japan. 120 TANJIBS, JACONKTS, MULLS, CAMBRICS, ETC. In light goods, tanjibs, jaconets, mulls and cambrics maybe classed together. Tanjibs are the coarsest ; 30 to 50 inches wide, 38 yards long, 32s to 40s ; lightly sized. Jaconets and nainsooks are finer ; 39 to 44 inches, 14x14 to 16x16, 32s to 50s ; always 20 yards long. Mulls are somewhat similar in style ; 39 to 50 inches wide, 20 yards, 16x16 to 20x20, from 60s to 100s, yarn ; pure size. Cambrics are the finest of the group, generally wide from 24 square to 36 square, 80s to 160s, yarn ; pure size. Turkey, India, China, Japan, Eoumania, the Levant, Egypt are all customers for these four cloths. Book and tarletan muslins are very fine home trades. A variety of cambric called embroidery cloth is largely made in some districts. It is of first-class quality, usually about 50 inches wide and cut up into short lengths. SHEETINGS, GINGHAMS, CHECKS, ETC. Sheetings are very wide goods — 60 to 100 inches. The yarns are coarse, generally 12s to 20s, although fine sheetings are frequently made. Waste plains are coarse goods woven with yarn spun from waste. Ginghams, checks, zephyrs, although colored goods, are of plain weave and of unclassifiable dimensions. Other plain cloths, needing little remark in conse- quence of their unimportance, are: Inches. Yards. Square. Tarletan Muslin 52 40 13 Chambray, 28 30 27x22 Hair-cord Muslin 59 24 20x22 Wrapped one twofold and one fine single. Blue Mottle 27 96 16x11 Blue warp, white weft. Victoria lawns, fine goods and Tafiechelas, formerly important goods, are now in little request. DRILLS, ETC. Cotton cloths other than plain: Drills — Heavy 3-shaft twills, narrow, heavily sized. Exported chiefly to China; few to Cyprus, Levant, Tur- key and Brazil. 121 CEETONNES, JEAMS, SATEENS, ETC. Cretonnes— Printed twill, made from coarse was4;e wefts, finer warps, various widths, generally narrow. Home trade ; also exported to Turkey and British colonies. Jeans— Finer 3-shaft twills, plain borders, narrow, for printing or finishing. Sateens— 5-shaft broken twills, 30 to 36 inches, 75 to 90 yards, 70 to 96 reed, 40 to 80 picks, 36s to 80s weft. Velveteens— Narrow, heavy-picked cloths, from 90 to 120 to the quarter-inch, yarns fine and best quality, 80 to 100 yards. Home trade and general export. COBDS, FUSTIANS, CORDUROYS, ETC. Cords, Fustians, Corduroys— Heavy, figured cloths, 20s yarn, 90 to 140 picks * to a quarter-inch, 70 to 90 yards. Brocades— Fancy jacquard goods; 38 inches, 75 yards; 72 to 96 reed, 20 to 26 picks. Doriah Stripes— Cloth carrying crammed stripes— not in color— are often narrow, 26 to 30 inches, 10 yards long, 12 to 30 reed by 13 to 14 picks; yarn, 40s to 50s T, and finer wefts. Leno— Narrow, generally 30 inches, 24 to 40 yards, very variable in reed and pick; yarns. In white check we find: Figured Checks— 30 to 36 inches, 13x16 to 18x20; 12 yards single cuts. Inches. Yards. Satin check 40 32 16x20 Tape check-. 36 24 22x20 37 48 20x24 STANDABD MAKES OF BRITISH COTTONS. _ Reed and Yarn or Weight Width. Length. Pick. Lbs. Shirtings 39 37J 16x15 30- 36s Si T-cloths 32 24 14x14 6 Mexicans 32 24 18x18 ... 7 Jaconets 44 20 14x14 40- 50s Mulls 50 20 20x20 80-lOOs Domestics.... 29 80 14x14 18- 18s Dhooties 44 40 16x15 30- 40s Printers 32 116 16x16 32- 50s * Where reed and pick are given, it must be understood as referring to a quarter of an inch, unless otherwise specified. Thus— 12 X 10 means 12 ends and 10 picks in a quarter of an inch, or 48 ends and 40 picks per inch. 122 American Cotton Plant, (short staple.) This species of cotton is cultivated in the United States. Its stem rises to the heighth of two or three feet, then divaricates into boughs, which bristle with hairs. The leaves are also hairy on their inferior sur- faces, and are three or five lobed. The upper leaves are entire or heart-shaped ; the petroles are velvety. The flowers near the extremities of the boughs are large and somewhat dingy in color. The capsules are ovate, four-celled, and nearly as large as a moderate sized apple, and yield a fine silky cotton of short staple. The seeds are greenish. 123 Cotton Manufactures of France, In 1880 France exported cotton yarns and cotton fab- rics, as follows: Value. Cotton Yarns $725,258 Cotton Fabrics $15,822,999 The cotton mills or factories of France in 1878, ac- cording to the report of the French government pub- lished in that year, represented the following: Cotton spinning mills 417 " spinning and weaving 76 " weaving .,^,. 564 ^ Total 1,058 They employed operatives : Men.... 44,092 Women 33,513 ChUdi-en 19,483 Total 97,088 Cotton spindles : In operation 4, 552, 392 Not in operation 281,734 Total 4,834,126 Cotton power-looms : In operation 57,828 Not in operation 4,322 Total 62,150 Cotton hand-looms 50,578 In 1880 there were imported into France cotton yarns to the value of $6,319,792, and cotton fabrics, $13,284,83. G-erman Cotton Manufacturing Interests. According to the most reliable German statistical authorities, the cost of cotton mills in that country in 1877 varied from $10.59 to $15.47 per spindle. The official statistics of the German Empire, about the same date, make the follo\ying exhibit: Cotton hand spindles 1,613,318 " self-acting spindles 4,602,103 " water " 862,135 " twist " 548,060 " weaving looms, Jacquard power 16,333 " " " ^' hand 9,852 " " " power .. 111,046 " " " hand 29,948 " bobbin machines, power 1,588 hand 304 ' ' embroidery machines, power , . . . . 76 hand 1,344 " bobbinet " power...... 455 " hand 202 According to the census report of Germany in 1875, there were in that country at that date, the following: Cotton spinning and weaving factories 104,619 Cotton operatives 296,827 From the annexed statement it will be seen that in the foregoing enumeration, what we would term petty or household enterprises, are dignified in Germany with the title of " factories." In cotton weaving alone 97,588 establishments em- ployed 203,489 operatives. Cotton factories, which employed more than 5 hands in each, had an aggregate of 4,265,336 spindles. 124 Cotton Industries of Norway, Sweden, Austria, Switzer- land, Holland, Belgium, Spain and Italy. The following is given as about the number of cotton spindles in Sweden and Norway, Austria, Switzerland, Holland, Belgium, Spain and Italy in 1880 : Total Con- Number Pounds sumption Cotton Cotton per Pounds Countries. Spindles. Spindle. Cotton. Sweden and Norway .. . 305,000 65 19,825,000 Austria 1,555,000 67 104,185,000 Switzerland 1,850,000 25 46,250,000 Holland 230,000 60 13,800,000 Belgium 800,000 50 40,000,000 Spain 1,750,000 46 80,500,000 Italy 800,000 56 44,800,000 Total 7,290,000 349,360,000 Capacity of Some of our Cotton Bagging Mills. The capacity of the cotton bagging factories in Ala- bama is said to be sufficient to supply the demand for cotton bagging in this country. In 1889 these mills were turning out 30,000 yards a day, which can be in- creased to 45,000 yards per day. The cotton bagging which they produce is said to weigh about three-quarters of a pound to the yard of forty-four inches wide, and the cost of the same per bale .of cotton to the planter averages somewhere in the neighborhood of eighty cents. Tenuity of Cotton Pibres. Some idea of the tenuity of the cotton fibres may be formed when it is remembered that 14,000 to 20,000 in- dividual filaments of American cotton only weigh one grain, so that there are about 140,000,000 to every pound, and each hair only weighs on the average about the 1-17000 part of a grain, and if the separate fibres wei-e placed end to end in a straight line, one pound would reach 2,200 miles. How to Distinguish Cotton from Flax, To distinguish cotton from flax, dip the mixture in a boiling solution of caustic potassa, and let it remain for two minutes. The flax will assume a dark yellow color, while the cotton will be a light yellow, or nearly white. 125 Russian Cotton Industry. The cotton industry of Russia is without the most important trade of that country, seen from the annexed synoptical table: ^-No. of mills— A exception as will be 1887. ^ CO >7-i ^ fp HH» n> p P p < e . which are very large, "have a deep yellow color. The capsule is also large, and produces a large body of cot- ton. The seeds are black. This is the species in most general cultivation in the West India Islands. There is also in the West Indies and elsewhere a cotton-bearing tree called the Umbrella tree, which attains to the height of 100 feet. The produce of the latter, however, is of so short and brittle a fibre that it is unfit for spinning or any other purpose, except stuffing pillows and beds. 138 Price of Middling Cotton in 1859, 1860, 1887 and 1889. The price ot* Middling: Cotton, April 1, 1859, was 13e and on April 1, 1860, ll%e. The -price in June 1887. was 11 7-16C, and the present price is 10%c. The lowest cotton ever touchpd was 5%o t^ m CO cq »n T-f CO rtt tH o T— 1 CD T-l kO OS m T-l OS 00 T-l 11 tH CO ■^ t^ ■w-t cq t- CO CO 00 - CO o oo a, la o T-l CO 00 t- OS CO 00 IS OS o *< c- T-l -* CO CD OS •c T-t t— CO o tr- 00 CO •T-l cq os" : o »o CO CO io CO t- 00 CO »« ^ T-l cq *« cq ■rJ^ OS »o CD la CO t- t- t- CO CO CQ^« iH i-i 1-1 tH T-l iH T-t rH O . »o I^ in> CO CO .00 00 QO 1-! CO e r-l CO la ■* -* TjH CO CO o CO ■*s.S OS »o T-H lO in O cq cq CO CO »c CO tH o o T-l cq cq CO y-i 5elRium 17,400,000 3 26 60,000,000 11.35 Switzerland 42.500,000 15 30 France 19,900,000 0.54 249,900,000 6 77 Spain and Portugal 25,700,000 1.21 105,600,000 4.96 Italy and Malta.... 51,100,000 1.59 103,900,000 3 85 Greece 6,900,000 4.75 6,900,000 4,75 Turkey, Kou mania, etc 87,000,000 2 40 37,000,000 2.40 Total 289,700,000 0.99 l,269,e00,000 4.38 Russia 2 600,000 0.03 145,106,020 1.68 Rest of Continent. 287,100,000 1.41 1,124,500,000 5 52 Great Britain 195,700.000 5.72 Total Europe. . 289,700,000 0.89 1,465,300,000 4.52 Turkey, Persia, etc. 38,000,000 1.54 38,000,000 164 India 330.000,000 1.32 625,000,000 2 50 nhioa 100,000.000 23 1,100,000,000 2.52 Japan 20,000,000 0.59 85,000.000 2 52 Siam, Java, etc. . . 30,000,000 2.40 30,000,000 2 40 Total Asia 518,000,000 t).69 1,878,100,000 2 48 E;?ypt and N.Africa 34.000,000 2 00 34 000,000 2.00 W., S. and E. Africa 2^,000,000 2.15 28,000 000 2.15 Interior of Africa Total Africa.... 62,000,000 0.26 62,000,000 0.26 U. S. and Canada. . 22,000,000 0.45 650,000,000 13.30 Cen. & So. America & West Indies.. 135.000.000 3.12 135,000,000 3 12 Total America. 157,000.000 1.70 785,000,000 8.32 Australia 15,000,000 5 66 15,000.000 5.66 As early as 1793 British mnslins were said to be equal in appearance to those of India, while the patterns were far more elepraut. and the cost was less than one-third. 152 A,iinual Orops, Exports and Home Consumption of Cotton Since 1841. Home Consumption. Total Season. Crop. 1841-42 1,684 000 1842-43 2.379,000 1843 44 2.030,000 1844-45.-. 2,394,000 1845-46 2,100,000 1846-47 1,779,000 1847-48 2,423,000 1848-49 2,840,000 1849-50 2,204,000 1850-51 2,415,000 1851-52. 3,126,000 1852-53 3.416,000 1853-54 3,075,000 1854.55. 2,983,000 1855-56 3,665,000 1856-57 3,094,000 1857-58 3,257,000 1858-59 4,019,000 1859-60 4,861,000 1860-61 3,849,000 1861-65 1865-66 2,278,000 1866-67 2,233,000 1867-68 2,599 000 1868-69 2,434,000 1869-70 3,114,000 1870-71 4,347,000 1871-72 2,974,000 1872-73 3,848,000 1873-74 4,130,000 1874^75 3.831,000 1875-76 4,632,000 1876-77 4,474,000 1877-78 4,774 000 1878-78 5,074,000 1879-80 5,761,000 1880-81 6,606,000 1881-82 5,456,000 1882-83 6,950,000 1883-84 5,713,000 1H84-85 5,706,e00 1885-86 6,575,000 1886-87 6,499 000 1887-88 7,046,833 1888-89 6,938,290 1889-90 Northern. Southern. Exports. Mills. Mills. 1.465.000 268.000 2,010,000 325,000 1 629,000 347,000 2,084,000 389.000 1,667,000 423,060 1,241,000 428,000 1,858,000 532,000 75,666 2,228,000 518,000 112,000 1.590,000 488,000 107,000 1,989,000 404,000 60,000 2,444,000 588,000 111,000 2,528,000 650,000 153,000 2,319,000 592,000 145.000 2,244.000 571,000 135,000 2,995,000 633,000 138,000 2,253,000 666,000 154,000 2,590,000 452,000 143,000 3,521,000 760,000 167,000 3,774,000 793,000 186,000 3.127,000 650,040 193,000 1,555,000 541,000 127,000 1,557,000 573,000 150,000 1,656,000 800,000 168.000 1,447,000 822,000 173 000 2.179,000 777,000 80,000 3,168,000 1,072,000 91,000 1.957,000 977,000 120,000 2,676,000 1,063,000 138,000 2,811,000 1,192,000 128,000 2,674.000 1,071,000 130,000 3,232.000 1 220.000 134,000 3,028,000 1,302,000 127,000 3,356,000 1,345,000 151,000 3,4f:6,000 1,375,000 198,000 3,864,000 1,574,000 223,000 4,565,000 1,713,000 230.000 3,551,000 1,677,000 287,000 4,724,000 1,759,000 313,000 3,917,000 1,537.(00 346,000 3,920,000 . 1,437,000 318,000 4,336,000 1,781,000 385,000 4 445,000 1,687,000 422,000 4,627 502 1,859,009 456,090 4,742,347 1,834,310 479,781 Cost of ''Woven Wind" Muslins. At two places in Bengal, India — Sonar-ga and Vickrum- poorn— muslins are made by a few families so exceed- ing!}' fine, tbat four months are required to weave one piece, wliich sells at from 400 to 500 rupees. When this muslin is laid on the grass and the dew has fallen on it, it is no longer discernible. 163 Estimated Number Cotton Spindles in Europe on Sept. 30 of the Year Named. Total Great Britain. Continent. Europe. 1883 42,000,000 22,450,000 64,450,000 1884 42,750,000 22,650,000 65.400,000 1885 43,000,000 22,750,000 65.750,000 1886 42,700,000 22,900,000 65,600,000 1887 42,740,000 23,180,000 65,920,000 1888 42,740,000 22,380,000 66,120,000 1889 Estimated Number of Working Cotton Spindles in tlie United States on Sept. 1, in the Years Named. Northern Southern Total Tears. States. States. U. States. 1880 10,095,000 484,000 10,679,000 1881 10,625,000 750,000 11,375.000 1882.... 11,350,000 800,000 12,150,000 1883 11,800,000 860,000 12,660,000 1884 12,250,000 1,050,000 13,300,000 1885 12,250,000 1,125,000 13,375.000 1886 12.250,000 1,150.000 13,500.000 1887 12,300 000 1.200,000 ' 13,550,000 1888 12,275,000 1,250,000 13,525,000 1889 12,725,000 1,450,000 14,175,000 Statistics of Special Cotton Mills in 1880. Below we give the mills which were* employed in working raw cotton, waste or cotton yarns into hose, webbing, tapes, fancy fabrics, or mixed goods or other fabrics, which are not sold as specific manufactures, either of cotton or wool. Some of these mills worked both fabrics, but belonged more in the class of cotton manufactures than in that of woolen manufactures : Eastern Middle Southern Western States. States. States. States Establishments.. 70 161 11 7 Capital $3,970,803 $6,616,645 $381,500 $255,500 Spindles 15,348 34,922 9,072 Looms 897 2 804 234 Operatives 3,169 9,271 271 181 Cotton con- sumed bales 9,006 27,794 684 8,114 Cost $578,705 $1,600,358 $39,016 $189,366 Wages paid operatives $877,007 22,898,931 $66,024 $34,947 Value Of produot.$5.539,192 $12,760,128 $235,395 $325,058 154 Ootton Manufactures of tlie United States in 1880. The statistics of cotton manufactures in the Unit#*d States for the year 1880, make the f cHowinfi: showinj? : Establishments 756 Caoital invested; $208,280,346 Spindles 10,653,435 Looms 225,759 Employees 174,659 Wages paid $42 040.510 Cotton consumed, bales 1,570,344 Cotton consumed, 1' s 750,843,981 Cost of cotton consumed $86,945,725 Value of all materiais used $102,206,347 Pounds of goods manufactured , . 607,264,241 Yards of goods manufactured 2,273,278,025 Value of total product $192,090,110 The foregoing were subdivided among the different geographical sections of the country as below : New England States. Factories 439 Spindles 8,632,087 Looms 184,701 Average number of yarns 30 Capital invested $156,754,690 Hands employed 127,185 Wages paid $32,170,861 Cotton consumed, lbs 541,373,880 Ootton consumed, bales 1,129,498 Value of cotton consumed $63,069,434 Value of materials used $74,290,026 Cotton goods manufactured, lbs 432,744,610 Cotton goods manufactured, yards 1.813,478,967 Value of entire product $143,363,030 South, m States. Factories 161 Spindles 542.048 Looms -. 11,898 Average number of yarns 11 Capital invested $17,375,897 Hands employed 16,741 Wages paid $2,750,9.-6 Cotton consumed, lbs 84,528,757 Cotton consumed, bales 182,349 Value of cotton consumed $8,890,408 Valu ^ of all materials used . , $9,999,145 Cotton goods manufactured, Ib^ 68,858,265 Cotton goods manufactured yards 148,058,675 Value of entire product $16,356,598 Middle States. Factories 139 Spindles 1.391,164 Looms 27,318 Average number of yarns 22 Capital invested $31,014,759 Hands employed 28,367 Wages paid $6,613,260 155 Ootton Manufactures of the United States in 1880. CONTINUED. (MiddU States Continued ) Cotton consumed, lbs 108,329.428 Cotton coDSumed, bales •. 228,729 Value of cotton consumed $13,258,526 Value of materiala used $16]l91,758 Cotton goods manufactured, lbs 93,574.519 Cotton goods manufactured, yards 289,762.256 Value of the entire product $29,389,286 Western States. Factories 17 Spindles : . 88 136 Looms 1,842 Average number of yarns. , 12 Capital invested $3,135,000 Hands employed 2.366 Wages paid $505,403 Cotton consumed, lbs 15,119,916 Cotton consumed, bales 29,768 Value of cotton consumed $1,657,367 Value of all materials used $1,725,418 Cotton goods manufactured, lbs 12,086,847 Cotton goods manufactured, yards 21,978,127 Value of the entire product $2,981, J 96 Eastern States. Material consumed, bales 1,129,498 Material consumed, lbs 541,373,88i> Cost $63,169,434 Value of all materials $74,290,(i26 Goods manufactured, lbs 432,744 610 Goods manufactured, yards 1,813,478,967 Total product $543,363,030 Middle States. Material consumed, bales 228,729 Material consumed, lbs 109,321,428 Cost $13,258,526 Value of all materials $16,191,758 Goods manufactured, lbs 93,574,519 Goods manufactured, yards 289,762,256 Total products. : $29,289,286 Southern States. Material con mmed, bales 182,349 Material consumed, lbs 84, 528,757 Cost $8,89)),408 Value of all materials $9 999,145 Goods manufactured, lbs 68,858,265 Goods manufactured, yards 148.058 675 Total products $16,356,598 g Western States. Material consumf d, bales 29,678 Material consumed, lbs 15.119,916 Cost $1,627,357 Value of all materials $1,725,418 Goods manufactured, lbs 12,086,847 Goods manufactured, yards 21,978,127 Total product . $2,981,196 156 Magnified fibres of Cotton. The following is the explanation of the accompanying cuts • FIBRES OF UNEIPE COTTON. A, — Fibres of the unripe cotton. In that state the fibres are perfect cylindrical tubes. A* is a fibre, repre- sented as seen under water, indicating that the water had gradually entered and enclosed several air-bubbles, proving the tube to be quite hollow and without joints. ^ FIBRES OF RIPE COTTON. 157 B. — The first two fibres are from ripe cotton and are already twisted, though the pod or capsule is not yet burst, and is still on the growing plant. The other three fibres are of raw cotton prepared for manufacture. C, '^■v,t:'>if1 FIBRES OF UNEAVELIiED THREADS OF MANUFACTURED COTTON. C.— Various fibres of unravelled threads of manu- factured cotton. The fibres of cotton in the above drawings represent ^It, of an inch in length, and are magnified 400 times in 100 ^ ' *-■ diameter. In thickness those fibres vary from ^^q to __i__ of an inch. The twists or turns in a fibre of cotton are from 300 to 800 in an inch. ■^>^ How Sewing Cottons Are Made. Sewing cottons are made by "doubling" the yarn produced generally by the throstle-frame, a modification of which is also employed for this purpose. Sometimes six threads are combined in pairs, so as to give great strength for sewing purposes. 158 Cotton Spindles in the United States in 1889. The accompanying table gives the number of cotton spindles in the United States in 1889, as compared with 1880 and 1887: 1880. 1887. 1889. Alabama 49,432 104,791 96,647 Arkansas 2,015 6,400 13,700 California .... *No returns *No returns Colorado Connecticut 936,376 1,092.524 1.023,928 Dakota ... Delaware 46,188 67,706 61,714 Florida 816 816 1,300 Georgia 198,656 406,330 442,148 Idaho .. . Illinois 4,860 27,000 26,000 Indiana 33,396 59,896 61,868 Iowa .. . 6,000 Kentucky 9,022 27.666 42,666 Louisiana , 6.096 44,028 61,168 Maine 695,924 824,432 812,722 Maryland. . , 125,706 176,800 176,800 Massachusetts 4,236,084 5,330,120 6,905,875 Michigan .- 5,100 5,500 Minnesota 1,708 Mississippi 18,658 47,050 54,800 Missouri 19,302 17,500 17,500 Montana .... New Hampshire..'...'. 944,053 1,180,648 l,207,3i2 New Jersey 232,221 351,068 351,068 New York 561,658 631,676 619,472 North Carolina 92,385 227,348 321,070 Ohio 13,327 28,152 26,152 Oregon Pennsylvania 425,391 452,735 445,962 Rhode Island 1,746.539 1,856,982 1,948,958 South CaroUna 82,334 232.692 351,040 South Dakota Tennessee 35,736 100,277 116.783 Texas 2,648 5,174 17,734 Utah 432 676 288 Vermont 55,081 63,868 62.775 Virginia 44,340 68,912 79,612 Washington Territory .... .... West Virginia. .. ... Wisconsin 10,000 32,480 32.128 Wyoming Territory Total 10,653,435 13,470,981 14,385,024 * One MiU. Cotton Spindles of other Countries in 1889. According to the most reliable reports, the cotton spindles of the world, not including the United States, in 1889, represented the following: England. 42,740,000; European Continent, 23,380,000; East India, 2 490,000; Canada, Mexico and South Amer- ica, 600,000, and Japan, 100,000. On the European Continent Germanv occupies the first place with about 5,500,000 spindles, and France next with 5,200,000. 169 Our Cotton Pactories in l/Ui, 1805, 1812 and 1817. Samuel Wilkinson, of Oonnecticnt, says : "Nearly all the cotton factories in tliis countrj'-, from 1791 to 1805, were built under the direction of men who had learned the art or skill of building machinery in Mr. Samuel Slater's employ. Mr. Slater used to spin both warp and filling on the water frame up to 1803. The operations of maniifactories up to 1817 were confined to spinning yarn only, which was put out in webs and woven by hand-loom weavers. Mules for spinning filling had not then been introduced. The cotton used to be put out to poor families in the country and whipped on cords, stretched on a small frame about three feet square, and the motes and specks were picked out at four to six cents per pound, as it might be, for cleanness. "In 1812 each spindle in Khode Island and Massa- chusetts produced yarn enough weekly to make two and a half yards of cloth of the value of 30 cents per yard." Only 1,000 Bales of Ootton Consumed in Manufac- turing in tlie United States in 1805. In 1805 the total consumption of cotton by the manu- factories of the United States was a little more than 1,000 bales. Metric System of Length. The metre, the unit of length, is the ten-millionth part of a line drawn from the pole to the equator. 1 millimetre = xoVo*^ °^ ^ metre = 0.03937 inches. 1 centimetre = y^^th of a metre = 0.39370 inches. 1 decimetre = Jgth of a metre = 3.93708 inches. 1 metre = as above == 3. 2809 feet. 1 decametre = 10 metres == 10.9363 yards. 1 hectometre = 100 "metres = 109.3633 yards. I kilometre = 1,000 metre = 0.62138 miles. IGO Cotton Manufacturing in the South and North Compared. According to some authorities the South has several advantages over the North and Northeast as a manu- facturer of cotton. Some of these are given as follows : 1. Proximity to raw material. 2. A superior climate. 3. Cheaper jDower. 4. Lower cost of rent and living. 5. Lower wage scales. 6. Less liability of strikes. 7. Cheaper buildings. 8. Less expense for heating mills. 9. Saving on freight. The dividends paid in 1888 by many Southern mills ranged between the extremes of 4 and 28 j)er cent., while the average was 11^ per cent. As to wages, it would seem that in large Southern manufacturing centres the scale of prices does not materially vary from those prevalent in the Northern mills, there being possibly 5 to 10 per cent, advantage in favor of Southern mills, which is probably made up to the Northern mills by superior expertness. The smaller cotton mills at country points in the South get labor for 20 to 25 per cent, less than the scales in vogue at the great centres both North and South, and it is safe to say that the average paid in the South for the same hands is 15 per cent, below the Northern average. The Draw-Loom. So long as a fabric is plain, like shirtings, sheetings^ etc., the hand loom will suffice to weave it; but if it is figured, an additional apparatus is necessary. In this case the warp threads, instead of being raised alter- nately, are raised two or more together, then one only, then two or more, according to the exigencies of the pattern. Hence, two healds will not suffice; there must be other mechanism for raising the warp threads in some prescribed order. A draw-hoy was at one time employed for this purpose. But as the excellence of the work depended on the right group of healds being pulled up at the right time, and as a boy could not always be relied upon here, an improvement called the draw-loom was devised, which insured something like mechanical precision in this work. 161 Philadelphia Ootton Manufactures in 1782. The following advertisement is from the Pennsylvania Gazette of April 3, 1782. The advertiser is said to have been the first one to make "jeans, fustians," etc., in America : Philadelphia Manufactures-~BXiit&h\e for every season of the year, viz: Jeans, Fustians, Coatings, &c., to be sold by the subscriber at his dwelling house and Manufactory, in South AUey, betweea Mar- ket Str. and Arch Str., and between Fifth and Sixth Streets, on Hudson's Square. Samuel Wetherill. Ootton Thread of American Origin. The Mw York Transcnpl (1831) contains the following correspondence, dated South Oxford, Slaterville, R. L, November, 1831: " Here resides Samuel Slater, the patriarch of manu- factures in this country. It is only known to a few that the world is indebted to this gentleman for the discovery of cotton thread. In 1794, while spinning a- quantity of Sea Island cotton, the evenness and beauty of the yarn attracted the attention of Mrs. Slater. The question arose, if this is doubled and twisted, why will it not make good sewing thread? The experiment was made, and, in order to be fully satisfied of the result, a sheet was made with one-half of linen thread and the other half with cotton. It was immediately put into use, and the first thread that gave way was the linen. From this period he commenced the manufacture of thread, and it soon spread into England, France and other European countries, where it is generally supposed to be of English origin." How Cotton Yarns Are Measured. Cotton yarn is measured as follows: 54 inches, 1 thread; 4,320 inches, 80 threads, 1 lea or rap; 30,240 inches, 560 threads, 7 lea, 1 hank, 840 yards. One spin i le of 18 hanks is 15,120 yards. A reel is 54 inches in circuit. The "number" of a yarn is the number of hanks, of 840 yards each of that yarn, weighing 1 pound, thus; Or No. 60 yarn, 60 hanks, 840 yards long, weigh 1 pound. Of No. 70 yarn, 70 hanks, 840 yards long, weigh 1 pound. Of No. 80 yarn, 80 hanks, 840 yards long, weigh 1 pound. 162 Production of Cotton G-oods in PiuladelpMa in' 1788. Samuel Wetherill, Chairman of the Committee of Manufactures, in his report to the Board of Managers of the Pennsylvania Society for Promoting Manufactures and Useful Arts, says that, from April 12, 1788, to Aug. 23, 1788, twenty-six looms had wrought the following goods: Jeans 2,959^ yards. Corduroys 197J " Federal Ribs 67 " Beaver Fustian , 57 " Plain Cottons 1,567| " Linen 725 Tow Linen 1,337^ " Total 6,911 " ^'Besides in the looms there are 200 yards of jeans, corduroys, cottons and linen, and of manufactured goods they have sold at this time (Aug. 23, 1788,) of jeans, dyed cotton and linen yarn, fine and tow linen, etc., to the amount of £448, 5s., ll^d. "In addition to the enumerated articles manufactured to the 23d of August, 1788, the following were made up to November 1, 1788: Jeans 759| yards. Corduroys ... 383| ' ' Flowered Cotton 39 " Cottons 2,095 " Flax Linens 123 " Tow Linens 494 " BirdEy^ 123 " Total 4.017 '' "And about 240 yards of different kinds of goods now iu the looms, the whole amounting to 11,367 yards." Production of Cotton G-oods in England Prom 1793 to 1833. In the article of cottons alone, the exports from Eng- land between 1793 and 1815, according to Barnes, amounted in value to £250,000,000. From 1816 to 1833, inclusive, cottons were sent from England to foreign markets to the enormous aggregate value of £570,000,000. 163 U. S. Import Duty on Cotton Thread, Tarn, Warps, Eto On cotton thread, yarn, warps or warp yarn, whether single, or advanced beyond the condition of single, by- twisting two or more single yarns together, whether on beams or in bundles, skeins or cops, or in any other form, except spool thread, the U. S. import duty is as follows : Per lb. Per lb. Values not over 25c 10c. Values over 25c. not over 40g 15c. Values over 40c. not over 50c 20c. Values over 50c. not over 60c 25c. Values over 60c. not over 70c 33c. Values over 70c. not over 80c 38c. Values over 80c. not over $1 48c. Values over $1. per Ib.^ 50 per cent. On spool thread of cotton, each spool not to exceed 100 yards of thread, 7c. per dozen spools. On the same, ex- ceeding 100 yards on each spool, for each additional 100 yards of thread, or fractional part thereof in excess of 100 yards, 7c, per dozen spools. The Largest Cotton Mill in the World. The largest cotton mill in the world is that of Krahn- holm, in Russia. This colossal establishment contains 340,000 spindles and 2,200 looms, disposes of a force of 6,300 horse power, and gives employment to 7,000 hands. The motive power is obtained from a fall on the river Marowa, which actuates eight turbines. Four of these turbines produce a force of 4,000 horse power each, and discharge 16,000 litres of water per second. The shafting of the machinery represents 9,426 running metres. The workpeople are Russians and Esthonians. The week's work is calculated at 79 hours, and the wages vary from 12 to 38 roubles per month. ^^^ Hints on Selecting Eope. A good hemp rope is hard but pliant^ yellowish or greenish gray in color, with a certain silvery or pearly lustre. A dark or blackish color indicates that the hemp has suffered from fermentation in the process of curing, , and brown spots show that the rope was spun while the fibres were damp, and is consequently weak and soft in those places. 164 Fastness ot" Oolors. The term "fast color" generally implies that the color in question resists the fading action of light, bnt it may also imply that it is affected by washing with soap and water, or by the action of acids and alkalis, etc. In its wide sense it means that the color is not affected by any of those influences to which it is des- tined to be submitted, but its technical influence is often restricted. Many colors may be fairly fast to washing with soap and water, and yet be very fugitive towards light; or, they may be fast to light, and yet very sensitive to the action of acids or alkalis. The term *' loose color" generally implies that the color is much impoverished, or even entirely removed, by washing with water or a solution of soap; it may, however, also mean that it is not fast to light. The word "permanent," as applied to color, generally denotes that it is fast to light and other natural influ- ences. A "fugitive color" is generally understood to be one which is not fast to light, or which volatises more or less under the influence of heat. In the absence, then, of any definite meaning being attached to the above terms, it becomes imperative, in speaking of the fastness of a color, to refer specially to the particular influence which it does or does not resist. The Jacquard Loom. The Jacquard loom, invented toward the end of the last century, is used for weaving figured goods. In this loom a chain of perforated cards is made to pass over a drum, and the strings by which the threads of the warp are raised pass over an edge with a wire or laden weight of small diameter suspended from each. These weights at each stroke of the loom are presented to each successive card, and some of them are inter- cepted by the card, while others pass through the holes therein, the latter thus determining which threads of the warp shall be raised. In this way the figure of the card determines the nature of the figure on the fabric. 165 Chronology of Ameidcaii Cotton Manufactures. 1786— Legislature of MaQsactiusetts made a grant to Kobert and.Alexander Burr'to aid them in build- ing machinery for spinning cotton. 1787— Grant to Thomas Somers, by the Legislature of Massachusetts, to aid him in completing a ma- chine for spinnicg cotton. First cotton lactory built in the United States at Btverly, Mass. 1788— Some spinning jennies were put in operation in Philadelphia, Pa., and Providence. R. I. 1789— Commencement of the cultivation of Sea Island cotton in Georgia from Pernambuco seed. Sam Slater came to this country, and was employed at New York, where, he said, they had in operation one carding machine and two spinning jennies at the close of the year. 1790— Samuel Slater went to Providence, E. I., and began building a cotton factory. 1791— The Slater factory in Providence, R I,, commenced spinning early in the year. 1794— Cotton gin invented by Eli Whitney in 1793, and patented March 14, 1794. 1798 -Cotton mill built by Slater at Pawtucket, E. I. 1802— Water mill at Beverly, Mass . had Arkwright ma- chine put in. 1804— First cotton mill in New Hampshire commenced at New Ipswich in 1803, and began operation in 1804. 1805— Second cotton mill built at Pawtucket, E. I. 1806— Cotton mill built at Pomfret, Conn. 1807— Mill built at Smithfleld, R. I., by Slater ; also a mill built at Watertown, Mass. 1808— Norfolk cotton factory incorporated at Dedham, Mass., and a mill built at New Ipswich, N. H. 1809— First cotton mill in Maine, at Brunswick, 1811— Mill at Dorchester, Mass., incorporated. 1813— Incorporation of Boston Manufacturing Co., known as the Waltham Co. 1814 - Power-looms in opeiation in Waltham, Mass., be- ing the first in the United States. 1817— William Gilmore migrated to this country in 1815 and put the crank-loom in operation in Ehode Island in 1817. 1822— First coUon manufactory built at Lowell, Mass. 1849— First cotton mill built at Lawrence, Mass. 166 Index to Selling Agenis of Domestic Cottons. The following is an Index to the Selling Agents of the principal brands of domestic cottons, arranged in such manner as to make it compact, reliable and convenient for qiiick reference on the part of buyers and dealers generally. The names of agents are represented by figures; e. g.. reserving for the letter A figures 1 to 9; B 10 to 19; C 20 to 29; D 30 to 39, and so on all the way through. The various brands of cottons are also ar- ranged in alphabetical order under their general head- ings, and each brand has attached to it the figure or fig- ures which represent the selling agent. SELLING AGENTS. 1. 2. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14:. 15. 16. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 20a 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 51. 52. 53. 60 65. 66. 67. 70. 71. 90. 100. ALDEICH. IDDINGS & CO. AMMIDOWN & SMITH. BAILEY k CO., JOSHUA L. BAKER & CO., FRANCIS. BLTSS, FABYAN & CO. BREMER & CO., JOHN' L. BRINCKERHOFF, TURN ER & CO. BUTLER, CLAPP, WENTZ & CO. BERNHEIMER & BROS., JACOB S. BYRD GEORGE H, CATLIN & CO. CHAPMAN, MARTIN & CO. CONWAY & CO., JOHN M. COOKE & CO., CHARLE'5 D. COFFIN, ALTEMUS & CO. CAKEY, BAYiSE & SMITH. CONVERSE, STANTON & CULLEN. COOKE & CO.. JAMES W. CLAFLIN & CO., H. B. CONTINENTAL MILLS. CARUTH, JOHNG. DALE, REED & COOLEY. DALE & CO.. HENRY. DANA, TUCKER & CO. DEERING, MILLIKEN & CO. DESNY. POOR & CI. DUNHAM, BUCKLEY & CO. DAVIS & CO., THOS. J. FARNUM & CO., JOHN (Phila). FAULKNER, PAGE & CO. FISH, Jr.. & CO., WM. GAR-^ER & ( O. GROSVENOR & CARPEN- TER GRISWOLDVILLE M'F'G. CO. GREER & HERTZEL, (Phila). HARPER, M. ORLANDO, JAFKRAY &C0., E. S. JOY, LANGDON & CO. KNIGHT, B. B. k R. 101. KIBBE, CHAFFER & CO. i:0. LANGLEY & CO., W. C. 111. LAWRENCE,TAYLOR & CO, 112. LAWRENCE & CO. 113. LEWIS, H. & W H. 114. LOW & CO.. JOSEPH T. 115. LESHER, WHITMAN & CO. 116. LONG BROTHERS & CO.^ •JAMES (Phila). 120. MINOT, HOOPER & CO 121. MITCHELL, MORRIS & CO. 130. NEVINS & CO. 141. OELBERMANN, DOMME- RICH k CO. 150. PARKER, Wn.DER & CO. 171. ROBINSON, SHACKELTON & COOLEY. 180. SIMPSON, SONS & CO., WM. 181. SMITH, HOGG & GARD- NER. 182. STRONG & CO., WM. L. 1S3. SHERIDAN & CO., G. K. 184. SAMPSON & CO.,0. H. 185. SWEETSER, PEMBROOK & CO. 186. STORER, WILLIAM. 190. TOWNSEND & YALE, 191. TEFFT, WELLER & CO. 192. TRAINOR & SONS, D. (Lin- wood, Pa.). 193. TIBBITS, HARRISON & ROBBINS. 194. TODD, MURPHY & CO. 210. VAN VALKENBURGH & CO, P. 220. WHEELWRIGHT, ELD- RIDGE & CO. 221. WHITE, PAYSON & CO. 222. WHITMAN. CREIGHTON & CO. 223. WHIT IN. COLLINS & CO. 224. WOODWARD BALDWIN. 225. WEED & BROTHER. ^.26. WESTBROOK MFG, CO. 2>7. WILSON & BRADBURY. 228. WOODRUFF. HENRY G. 229. WEST & INGALLS. 230. WILLIS, GRINNEL. Note — This list is made up to December 18, 1F89, but as change.? of firms and transfers of accounts a.?nally take place about January 1st of each year, some corrections and additions will probably have to be made to it by the insertion of an addenda leaf. 167 Index to Bleached Sheetings and Shirtings. ABC, 223; Adriatic, 24; Allendale, 11 and 30; Alpine JRose, 228; Altoona, 11; Alexandria, 13; AUegtianj', 70; Amesbury, 90; Amory, 13; Androscoggin, 12; Art Cambric, 223; Atlantic, 20; Aurora, 11; Avondale, 24. Ballardvale, 24; Barker, 33; Bay Mills, 110; Berkley Cambric, 111; Berkley Madapolam, 111; Berkshire, 30; Best Yet, 11; Big Bonanza, 13; Blackstone, 111; Blizzard, 24; Boston, 190,220; Bric-a-brac, 24; Brentwood, 11; Brighton, 90; Boott,181; Burleigh Long Cloth, 230; Busy Bee, 11, Cabot, 220; Cascade, 33; Cast Iron, 33; China, 33; Champion, 181; Chapman, 100; Charter Oak, 114; thicopee Mfg. Co., 20; Clinton, 100; Cock of the "Walk, 223: CHftou Mills, 220; Ceutreville Mills, 24; Conestoga, 51; Conquest, 114; Columbia 33; Continental, 29; Conway, 120; Cooley Homestead, 30; Copper Fastened, 25; Coral Reef, 24; Cohasset, 13: Crusader, 11; Cumberland, 111, Dauntless, 24; Davol Mill. 24; Defiance, 11; De Soto, 171; Devon, 24; Dial, 181; Diamond Field, 223; Diamond-Hill Cambric, 230; Dunedin, 11; Dwight-Anchor, 120; Dunellen Mills, 30, Easthampton, 70; Edwards, 12; Edward Harris, 23; Eldorado, 13; Elkwood, 228; Ellerton, W. S, 20; Excelsior, 23; Exeter Manufacturing Co , 220. Fairfax, 113; Fairmount, 33; Farmers A., 11; Farmers Choice, 111; Farwell, 220; Fairfield, 24; Family Favorite, 11; Favorite, 223; Fauntlerov, 101; Fearless, 24; Fidelity, 100; Pirst Call, 114; Fitchville, 111; P. P. F. Cambric, 65; Forget-Me-Not, 111; Forrest Mills, 223; Forrestdale, 113; Franklin ville. 90; Fruit-of-the Loom, 100; Full Value, 11; First Prize, 11. Garland, 24: Gem-of-the Spindle, 11; GlenAlpine.il; Gleudale, 12; George Washington, 120; Gilded • Age, 220; Gilt Edge, 25; Golden Rod, 15; Gold Medal, 223; Great Fans, 120; Golden Wedding, 30; Greene, 111; Green Ticket. 30; Grin- nell, 230; Great Republic, 24; Grosvenor Dale, 65; Gypsy Queen, 24; Gibraltar, 33; Globe, 30. Hercules, 33; Harvest, 11; Harvest E., 181: Hillsdale, 229; Homestead. 30; Hope, 111; Hills Semper Idem, 32; Holly Tree Cambric, 193; Hero, 100; Holmesville, 1 ; Housekeeper, 33; H. G. W., 228; Homespun, 33; Honest Household, 11; H. T, B., 30, Imperial. 13; Indian Head, 32; Iron Pier, 30; Iron Prince, 228; Invincible, 70. JcAvitt Citv, 184; Jacque Rose Cam- bric, 228; Just Out, 24. King PhiHip Cambric, 26; Knight's Cam- bric, 100; King Bee, 24; K. M. Q., 230. Laconia, 12; Lafayette, 11; Lancaster, 150; Landseer, 100; Langdon, 13; Lexington Mfg. Co., 11; Lily of the Valley, 11; Linwood, 223; Little Chief, 100; Loch Lomond cambric, 31; Lockwood, 33; Lonsdale, 111; Lonsdale cam- bric, 111; Lowell, 150, Magic, 114; Magnolia. 70; Masonville, 65; Milton Falls, 111; Mohawk VaUey Cotton Mills, 111; Shrunk, 23; Monadnock, 150; Monohansett, 24; Monogram, 30. Nan tuck, 191; Newmarket, 90; Naumkeag, 13; Nashua, 32; New Bedford, 230; Ne Plus Ultra, 24; New Candidate, 171;' No Dicker, 171; New York Mills, 114. Oak Grove, 11; Oak Lawn, 114; Oak View, 90; One of the Finest, 15; Ontario, 11; Our Choice, 11; Our Own, 24; Our Reliance, 24; Oakland, 33. Paragon, 24; Pembroke, 24; Pelham, 20; Peabody, 20; Pennant, 15; PeppereU, 12; Perennial, 13; Plymouth, 11; Pride of the Nation, 30; Pequot, 13; Paragon, 24; Powhattan, 24; Pioneer, 24; Pioneer of the Market, 11; Pennant, 15; Pocahontas, 24; Pride of the West, 24; Prosperity. 24, Quinnebaug, 33; Queen, 70. Reading Dairy, 24; Rutledge, 30; Resolute, 191; Rhode Is- land, 111; Royal, 24; Rosalind, 181; Rosebud, 100; Rochdale, 24. Scituate, 15; Shamrock, 70; Senate, 114; Second to None, 114; Sea Island, 100; Snow White, 11; Sensation, 24; Security, 24; Sentinel, 24; Signal. 24; Silver Queon, 15; Standard, ICO; Star W., 223; Sterl- ing, 24; Simlight, 24; Social, 23. Tea Rose, 228; Trump Card, 171; Trosseau, 24; The Cooley Homestead, 30; Ten Strike, 223; The Penuant,15; The Sun Cotton, 120; Tiger Lily, 171; True-as-Steel, 181; Tuscarora, 113; Thistle Mills, 24. Utica Steam MiHs, 111; Utica Diamond U., 111. Valley Mills, 171; Victoria long cloth, 230; Vine- yard, 220 Wamsutta, 230; Warren Mfg. Co., 12; Washington, 120; Water Witch, 24; Wauregan, 113; Water Lily. 220; Whiting, 24; White Horse, 111; White Rock, 111; WhitinsviBe, 223; Williams- ville, 24; Woodbury, 24; Winchester, 120; Wealth of the Country, 114; Wessacnmcou, 90. X, Y, Z, 223. 168 Index to Brown Sheetings and Shirtings. Adriatic, 32; Alaska, 11; AHenclale, 30; Alligator, 24 ; Aniory Mfg, Co., £, 13; Androscoggin, 12; Anuiston, 223; Appleton, 32; Arch- ery bunting, 222; Argyle, 181; Arizona, 24; Ashland, 181; Atlanta, 24; Atlantic, 20; Augusta, 224. Bedford, 181; Bellview, 19; Ben- nington, 181; Black Crow, 24; Big Bonanza, 13; Blue Ridge, 224; Boott, 181; Boston, 220; Buck's Head, 33; Busy Bee, 11; Burlington 11; Burley, 150. Cabot, 120; Calvert, 33; Cameron, 33; Capitol, 24; Cast Iron, 33; Central Falls, 70; Century, 33; Ceylon bunting, 33; Charleston, 110; Chesterfield, 223; Chieftain of the Glen, 11; Comet, 20; Conestoga, 182; Constitution, 12; Columbia, 33; Crusader, 11; Cresenta, 23; Charter Oak, 23. Darlington, 33; Decatur, 24; Derby, 24; Dwight, 120. Echo Lake, 120; Eldorado, 13; Ellsworth, 191; Enterprise, 224; Ettrick, ]9; Exeter, 220; Exposition, 23, Euf aula, 224. Farmer A., 11; Farmer No. ].. 24; Fountain City, 53; Foxhall, 220; Fruit of the Loom. 100; Full Yard Wide. 220. Great Falls, 120; Grafton, 223; Graniteville, 19. Hamilton County, 53; Harvest, 11; Honest Width Yardstick, 181; Housewife, 120; Hill, 32; Huron D., 120. Indian Head. 32; Integrity, 24. Just Eight, 120. King Mfg. Co., John P., 53. Lacouia, 12; Lancaster, 32 and 150; Langley, 110; Law- rence, 190; Lehigh, 24; Lockwood, 33; Laurel Dale, 24; Log Cabin, 120; Lowell, 150; Lyman. 120. Massachusetts, 181; Mechanics, 24; Milton, 28; Mohawk Valley Cotton Mills, 111; Monadnock, 150; Mystic River, 181. Nabob Royal, 70; Nashua, 32; Natchez, 24; National bunting, 66; Naumkeag, 13: Newberry, 223; Newmarket, 90; New York Mills, 114; Niobe, 90; Norfolk, 90. Oriental, 24; Ozark, 13, Pacific, 20; Pacolet, 33; Park, 24; Pelzer, 110; Plymouth, 11; Pembroke, 24; Pepperell, 12; Pequa, 51; Pequot, 13; Princeton, 183; Piedmont, 224; Pocahontas, 24; Pocasset Canoe, 24; Pioneer, 24; Portsmouth, 2; Prescott, 181; Pride of the Nation, 30; Princess bunting, 66. Riverside, 90, Rockingham, 183; Royal "340, ' 191; Rosalie, 23; Rose of the Valley, 24. Salisbury, 12; Saracen, 181; Saranac, .32; Scotia, 70; Sea Foam, 33; Sea Shore, 24: Shamrock, 70; ShaM'mut. 181; Sherman, 70; Springfield, 181; Stark, 13; Statue of Liberty, 191; Sun Tissue, 33; Superior W. E., 220. Tennis, 223. Utica Cotton Co., Ill; Utica Steam Mills, 111. Vir- ginia Family, 19. Wachiisett, 32; Wamsutta, 113; Washington, 24; Wasuc, 223; WaterviUe, 33; Wbitefield, 33; Williamsville, 24; Win- throp. Continental Mills, World Wide, 220. Yardstick, 181„ Cotton Drills. Adriatic, 32; Anniston, 224; Appleton, 32; Atlanta, 24; Augusta, 224. Boott, 181. Calvert, 33; Charleston, 110; Clifton, 220; Cones- toga, 51; Continental, 51. Darlington, 33. Ettrick, ]9; Eufaula, 224. Graniteville, 19. Hamilton, 90; Harper, 70. King Mfg. Co., John P., 220. Laconia, 12; Lanark, 24; Langley, 110; Lyman, 120. Massachu- setts, 181. Natchez, 24. Pacolet, 33; Piedmont, 224; Pepperell, 12; Prescott, 181. Rock River, 12; Rosalie, 23. Sheldrake, 23. Roval Standard, 191. Stark, 13; Sibley, 23; Sufliolk, 181; Superior .181. Tennessee, 70. Denims. Amoskeag, 13; Artisans, 13. Beaver Creek, 12; Boston Medal, 12. Columbian, 12. East.n. 23; Everett, 181. Hamilton, 90; Hay- maker, 12. Jewitt City, 184. Lawrence, 190; Lewistou, 2. Omega, 192; Otis, 12. Palmer, 12; Pearl River, 13; Pemberton, 130. Rosa- lie, 23. Saco River. 181; Shetucket, 32; Sibley, 23. Thorndike, 12. Uncasville, 170. Wachusett, Ibl; Warren 12. York, 181. Ginghams. Abbotsford, 11; A. F. C, 13; Amoskeag, 13; Arasapha, 10; Arling- ton 224. Barnaby Mfg. Co., 24; Bates, 12. Calcutta, 20; Cumber- land, 22. Everett Classics, 181; Egremont, 224; Empire, 224. Glou- cester, 114; Gotham, 67; Greylocks, 224. Imperial Seersucker, 13. Johnson Mfg. Co., 34. Lancaster, 32, Manchester, 23: Manville Co., 141; Marguerite. 224; Massabesic, 13. Normandie, 32. Parkhill Mfg. Co., 34; J ark Mills, 170. Renfrew, 210. Saccarappa, 226; Slaters- ville. 227. Toile du Nord, 34; Tuscany, 224. Wamsutta, 24; West- brook, 226; White Mfg. Co., 20; Whitteuton, 52. York. Ibl. 169 Index to Checks and Cheviots. Amoskeagf, 13; Arasapha, 10; Alabama, 1. Bates, 12; Bengalese Cloth, 116. Columbian, 12; Conestoga, 51. Degner, 13; Delhi, 27. Eagle, 12; Everett, 181. Greenville, 12. Eastou, 23. Jewitt City, 113. Kenmore, 116. Maasabesic, 13. Great Western, 22. Otis, 12. Loch Lomond, 33. Sea Island, 27; Slatersville, 227; Sibley, 23; Slater, 184. Thorudike, 12. Uncasville, 170. York, 181, Corset Jeans. Amory, 13; Androscoggin, 12. Biddeford, 12. Conestoga, 182. Ed- wards, 12; Empire, 2. Kearsage, 220. Laconia, 12; Lexington, 24. IS'aumkeag, 13; Narragausett, 24. Pepperill, 12. Quiunebaug, 2. Eockport, 12. Printed Calicoes. Allen's, 111; American, 12; Anchor; Shirtings, 180; Arnold's. 52. Berlin, 180. Charter Oak, 60; Cocheco, 112. Dresden, 11. Eddy- stone, 180; Elberon, 11. Garner & Co., 60, Hamilton, 90; Har- mony. 60. Imperial, black, 180. Lodi, 34. Manchester, 221 ; Martha "Washington, 24; Merrimack, 220; Mystic Print Works, 184. Pacific Mills, 112; Passaic, 34. Ramapo, 60. Steel River, 60; Stirling, 25; St. Ledger, 60; Sultan, TurkevRed, 180. Victoria, 180. Washington, 24; Windsor, 210. Silesias and Sateens. Black Rock, 36. Caledonia, 16; Cambridge, 121; Capitol, 115; Centennial, 136; Conestoga, 182: Crown, 115. English, KK, 16; French, XX, 16. German, AB, 16; Globe, 30. Hopeville, 186." Kearsage, 220. Lonsdale, ill; Lonsdale, colored cambric, 111. Pepperill Sateens, 12. Social, 23. Victory, 20. White Star, 36- Windsor, 36. Tickings. Araoskeag, 13. Brandywine Mills, 51. Conestoga, 51 ; Cordis, 12; Challenge, 20a; Colchester, 27. Everett, 181; Elmwood, 184. Falls Co., 32; Farmers, 184; First Prize. 90. Hamilton, 90; Heifer, 184. Imperial, 90. Jewitt City, 184. Lancaster, 51. Massabesic, 13; Methuen, 130; Monroe, 27. New England, 12. Oakland, 52; Ocean, 113; Omega, 192. Palmer, 12; Pearl River, 13; Pemberton, 130; Poole, 52; Princeton, 184. Rosemont, 51. Slatersville, 227; She- tucket, 32; Swift River, 12. Thorndike, 12; Warren, 12. Yeomans, 313; York, 181. Cambrics (Flat Pold). Edwards Mfg. Co., 12. Equity, 2. Fifth Avenue, 2. Lockwood, 33. Slater & Sons, 185. Warren, 12; Washington, 20. Canton Plannels. Amoskeag, 13. Chicopee Mfg. Co., 20. Ellerton, 20. Hamilton, 90. Laconia, 12; Lawrence, 190; Lyman, 120. Massabesic, 13; Massa- chusetts, 181; Methuen, 130. Nashua, 32. Ocean, 12; Otis, 12. Pem- berton, 130. Royal Standard, 19i. Tremont, 181. Cottonades. Aberdeen, 16; Andover, 115; Albany, 15. Bell D. & T., 10; Bruns- wick 10. Fairhaven, 10; Falls Co., 32. Chicopee, 15. Everett, 181. Golden Rvile, 15. Kenmore, 10. Manchester, 15; Merrimack, 181. N. Y. Mills, D. & T., 114; Nova Scotia. 17; Niantic, 16. Our Choice, 15; Oxmead, 16. Park Mills. 170; Pemberton, 130. Southern, 10. Trenton, 186. Unadilla, 186. Wachusett, 181; Wear Well, 10. York, 181. Stripes. American, 32; Amoskeag, 13. Bates, 12: Boston, 12. Cordua, 184; Columbian, 12; Conestoga, 51. Eagle, 12; Easton, 23; Everett, 181. Granville, 90; Glasgow, 184. Hamilton, 90. Jewitt t ity, 184, Mass- abesic, 13. Omega, 192; Ctiz, 12. Rock River, 23. Sheridan, 184. Thorudike. 12. Volunteer, 184. Uncasville, 170. York, 181. 170 Analysis of the Widths, Weights, Counts or Picks of Domestic Cottons. Beginning on page 173, under the respective headings of "Brown Sheetings and Shirtings," "Bleached Sheet- ings and Shirtings," etc., will be found tables giving the widths, weights, counts of threads or picks of the prin- cipal makes of domestic cottons, ginghams, etc. In each instance these have been carefully measured, weighed^ and the picks counted by expert?, with the aid of the most approved modern appliances used for such pur- poses. In addition to the ordinary magnifying glass usually employed in counting the threads or picks of cotton cloth. The Dey Goods Chkonicle sent to Switzer- land and had specially made to order an improved and graduated thread or pick counter, of which the following is a good illustration : UNIVEBSAL THREAD OB PICK COUNTER. This instrument consists of a highly polished steel plate with beveled sides, upon which the desired scales are engraved. The side containing the scale is placed upon the sample, the threads of which are to be counted running parallel either with the warp or the filling. The lines of the scale are of such a length that the operator, in his counting of the threads, is not confined to certain principal lines, such as one-quarter or one- half inch, but may cease counting at any line he may desire. 171 Upon the tipper face of the steel plate stand two brass uprights with perforations, serving as bearings to a small shaft which is throughout its whole length, from one upright to the other, furnished with a fine screw thread of about one millimeter pitch. When this screw is revolved by means of the small milled head it moves backward or forward a square nut, the lower side of which rests upon the steel plate. Upon the front side of the nut is a magnifier, which can be moved up or down. One-half of it is above the scale on the beveled side of the steel plate, while the other half projects be- yond it and includes the weave under examination. Under the centre of the magnifier, fastened to the lower edge of the square nut, is a fine index needle, reaching to the outer edge of the scale division, so that its point always touches the thread and the scale division at the same place. When the screw is turned it moves the nut, together with magnifier and index needle, and the operator may at his ease count thread for thread in the steady prog- ress of the needle, it being only necessary to watch the latter and the thread pointed to, until it arrives at a division where it is desired to stop counting. If the operator wishes to continue counting, he may simply jot down the number and proceed after having rested his eye. The steel plate is beveled upon each side, and corre- sponding scales are engraved upon each. The needle can be displaced about 1^ inches, and the magnifier can be raised or lowered to suit the eye of the opei'ator. For these reasons this improved magnifier and thread counter is now the instrument chiefly used in the analysis or inspection of weaves in Switzerland and other European countries. The old magnifier com- monly used is set in a piece of metal hinged to an up- right, with a foot hinged to the latter. The three 172 pieces, each about one inch square, can be folded to- gether and carried in the vest pocket. The little square hole in the foot piece of the ordi- nary magnifier varies in size according to the kind of ■weave to be examined. On the one hand, a small hole is objectionable, because "with the least displacement it causes errors in the counting of the threads. On the other hand, a large hole is equally objectionable, es- pecially if a weave with a close warp is to be counted. Every manufacturer or expert knows how difficult it is to count from thirty to fifty and more threads in a space of one-quarter of one square inch with a mag- nifier of this kind. The eye tires, and the result is so uncertain that after repeated countings the operator arrives at only approximate results. In order to avoid difficulties of this kind, perhaps nearly every one has recourse to some method of his own invention to assist Jiim in his labor. Most universally used, perhaps, is a fine needle, in order to offer a certain rest to the eye, after having counted a definite number of threads. Even this is not entirely reliable, because, while mark- ing on the paper, the analyzer may forget the number ■of threads counted, and must recommence counting. In order to avoid as much as possible the difficulties enumerated, the Universal Thread Counter has been used, in conjunction with ordinary counting glass. The most approved weighing scales and width measures have also been employed, with the results, it is believed, of making generally the most accurate and reliable tables of widths, weights and counts or picks of brown, bleached and colored cottons, ginghams, etc., ever pre- sented to the trade of this country. "While the tables in question are not altogether complete in some in- stances (and possibly some few errors may have unavoid- ably crept into the analysis of the same), they will in due time be completed, and all errors be corrected in the revised editions of the work, which will appear an- nuall}', with added improvements. 173 BEOWN SHEETINGS AND SHIRTINaS. f^ctrnp Width. J\ame. Inches. Aberford Standard 36 AcorD 36 Adriatic 36 Agawan 36 Agawan, XX 30 Alabama . . 27 Albany, LL 36 « BB 36 Aliska 36 Alexandria 42 Alpha 36 Allendale 54 ♦' 7-4 «• ; 8-4 9-4 10-4 11-4 L 12-4 Alli«:ator 27 '• 26 American, XX 36 American Mills, CD 36 Amory Mfg. Co 36 36 «' LL 40 Anchor, L 36 Androscoggin 46 ♦* 48 7-4 8-4 9-4 ]0-4 11-4 Antelope, A 36 Anniston 36 Appleton A 36 A 36 *' FineAA 35 FineAA 35 GG 35M Hne GG 35% •« R 36 XX 36 Archery Bunting 36 Argyle Family cotton 36 " " 40 Arizona 36 Arrow 36 Ascot 36 Ashland 36 Ashland 36 AtlantiAA improved 36 '-' AA....:. 36 BB 30 Altantic A 36 " H 36 p 36 •• T).'.'.'. 36 '« V 30 Yards to Picks to Found. Inch. 2.84 48x48 4.00 4 00 52x44 12.00 86x36 4.00 56x56 64x72 3.95 72x80 3 ".86 64x68 2.B6 60x64 2.07 60x64 1 84 60x64 1.65 60x64 1.51 60x64 1.38 60x64 13.00 36x36 13.55 40x32 2 54 52x56 3.98 5lix48 3.84 80x76 3.68 76x76 3.49 80x72 6.65 44x44 3 36 72x72 3.10 72x72 2.14 72x72 1.87 72x72 1.66 72x72 1.50 72x72 "" , 72x72 3.26 44x44 3.2) 48x44 2.76 48x52 2.80 44x50 4.39 60x60 4.37 60x56 2.86 4.53 56x60 8.70 64x64 4.17 56x56 8.20 44x48 3.52 60x64 3.25 60x64 68x76 6.90 44x44 3 00 46x48 3.00 46x48 3.50 48x48 2.85 48x48 2.95 52x56 4.00 56x56 3.33 48x48 3.61 52x52 174 Brown Sheetings and biiirtingB » ,, Width. Name. Inches. Atlantic LL 36 LL 36 5-4 «« * 5-4 «« ■ 6-4 «' ""*.'.' 7-4 « ■" * 8-4 »• 9-4 «' ■/.■.*. 10-4 ;;.* 11-4 " Comet 36 " Comet 40 A^las E 35 Augusta A, No. 1 36 ■;; .■;.■.■;; 27 Aur. ra LL 36 «• () 31 •« R 36 •' B 36 Badgrer Scate LL 36 RR 36 •• R 36 Bangor J.. 30 »< F 36 BB..'."., 36 •• C 30 Banner . . 36 Baltic HL 33 Beaver Dam LL 36 Bedford R 30 BellviewXX 36 Belfast ii 30 «' H 30 Bea'^on 36 Bennington AL 36 '« FF 36 , «« M 36 R 30 «« C 36 Black Crow 36 36 Black Rock 36 Boott FF Sandard 36 -'• Sterling 36 •' 2d * 36 •• " 66 Boott, Warwick 36 " C 34 *• Sq. Sterling 36 " AL 36 •' PL 40 Boston 45 •« 50 " 5-4 •« 6-4 •< .. 7-4 .' ."■*.'.... 8-4 " 9 4 «' . 10-4 Continued. Yards to Picks to Pound. Inch. 5.03 64x64 4.94 64x64 2.69 68x72 2.74 6Sx68 2.18 68x68 1.82 68x68 1.68 68x68 1.46 64x68 1.32 68x68 3.'45 64x64 3.11 64x64 3.79 60x60 3.03 48x48 3.63 40x40 4.52 40x40 4.00 56x60 5.50 40x44 3.60 68x68 64x68 4.00 56x56 3 75 64x64 3.45 64x64 4.13 48x44 2.90 48x48 4.05 56x66 4.50 56x5« 4. 00 56x56 S.96 64x68 3>7 56x56 3.15 64x68 2 90 48x48 3 54 60x64 6.00 64x64 3*. 70 60x64 3.66 60x64 3.61 64x68 2.89 48x48 3.60 60x64 3 81 6ox60 3.81 62x60 4. '09 58x60 3 ".29 68x68 2.86 68x68 2^22 72x72 2.49 68x64 2.29 68x68 1.97 72x72 1.73 72x72 1.52 72x72 1.38 72x72 175 !^^ Brown Sheetings and Shirtings- ^ „ Width, Name, Inches. Boynton 28 Broadway 36 Brigrhton Mills, A 40 R 36 Busy Bee 36 33 .* 7-8 Burlington *-4 •' 7-8 Buckshead 86 Buck's Head 40 Buckingham 36 Cdbot, A (Dwight) 36 " No.lO(M) 36 " W 36 Calvert Mfg. Co 36 " " 36% Cambria 36 Calumet, A 56 B 36 •• c 36 LL 36 X 36 Cameron, D 36 Carlyle 40 " 28 Capttol, A. 36 " B 30 •' c 28 XX 36 Cartwright 36 •« CW 36 Cartwrlght Mills 36 Cary,a.W 36 Cast-Iron Brand, C 36 «« " 36 Cedar Falls, AA 36 Central 36 32 Central Fads 36 Century, A 40 •' B 86 " B 36 « C 32 " D 27 «• E 36 L ". 28>; Century Cotton B 36 L 28 Ceylon Bunting 36 Charleston O 36 ER 30 ^ •« C 27 Star 36 Cherry Mountain 36 Charter Oak 36 Champion Mills K 31>^ Chatham AA Stan'd 36 Chesterfield Mills A 36 Chippewa C 36 -Continued. Yards to Picks to Pound. Inch 8.38 56x56 4.50 44x56 3.18 3.18 4.35 64x64 2'. 85 48x48 3.17 48x48 2! 97 48x48 76x80 3 45 48x48 2.93 48x48 2.86 48x48 2^85 48x48 2 95 48x52 3 30 56x60 4.00 56x56 5.45 48x48 5.24 6.22 3' 69 4.08 4 82 3.69 4.82 5.92 2.78 64x66 4.83 48x52 4.64 52x56 4.86 52x56 3.03 48x44 3.13 68x72 3.07 68x76 44x40 68x72 68x72 64x64 68x72 64x64 64x64 48x46 176 Brown Sheetings and Shirtings— Continued. ■KFnrr^o Width, iVame. Inches. Chittenango A 36 Clarion LL 36 Clifton COO 36, ceo 36i (World wide) E 36 (Arrow) 36 CC C D Oohasset A, heavy. Comet C. 31 29 28 36 J) 36 40 Common Sense 36 Concord 36 Collingwood . . . 36 Columbia 36 Coneetoga W 36 S 33 G 30 D 28 Conestogo 10-4 11-4 Constitution 36 9-8 " 40 f. " f2 •« 45 •• 48 36 40 40 42 45 48 36 Continent 1 C D D " E " W E " half bleached Cotton Vrt lley Mills C 36 Orescent D 36 CrownXXX 36 DanRiver 36 Darlington 36 « 40 Daphne 36 Dayton 36 Decatur 28 Derbv 36 Des Moines 36 Diamond B 36 Dwiffht 36 Improved X. DMC. Star. 30 27 36 36 36 40 " Anchor 36 '• '♦ 40 '• " 42 Eagle A 36 36 Yards to Pound. 4.70 4.00 3.03 2.87 3.64 8.68 4 66 Picks to Inch. 44x44 48x44 48x44 48x44 3.45 64x64 3.11 64x64 4 02 68x72 B.hi 60x60 4.18 60x60 4.73 60x60 5.11 60x60 1.28 56x52 1.12 56x52 3.48 64x68 s'.ii 64x68 2.93 64x68 2.76 64x68 2.76 64x64 3.50 64x68 3.27 68x72 3.05 64x72 2.92 64x78 2.75 64x68 2.63 64x68 3! 79 . 60x62 2. '85 48x48 2!85 * * * * 52x52 64x72 3.94 76x84 4.65 64x64 4.78 60x64 3.81 72x72 3 97 76x80 4.02 80x76 3.40 80x76 3.26 72x72 8.00 72x72 177 JBrown Sheetings and Shirtings Name. ?^^i^^' „ , ^ Inches. Echo Lake 36 40 Edgefield A 36 Eldorado^ 36 Empire AA 36 *' 32 Enterprise EE . . . ...... . 36 EttricikAA 36^ '• EE 36 Eufaula 36 " 32 " 27 Eureka 32 Exeter A 36 " S.. 33 " C 40 Exposi ion A 36 B 30 FairmouQt E 28 H 36 Fall Brook 36 Farwell Mills hf-blc'd 36 Farmer A 36 " BB 32 " extra No. 1 28 Fine Sheetings 36Vi First Call 3-4 Florida 36 Forest Mills 36 Fountain City. 36 Foxhall A 27 Fruit of the Loom .... 8-4 " 9-4 " 10-4 Georgia A 36 B. 36 - 32 Germain 36 Globe BB 34 Glendale 36 30 " B 36 Golden Gate 36 Good as Wheat 36 Grafton Extra A 28 Granite A , 36 B 32 C 28 Graniteville A 36 EE 36 HHH 36 C 27 BR 27 RR 29t% Great Falls Co , E 36 J 36 N 36 XX 36 Great Western . . 36 Greystone Steam Mills, R . 86 — Continued. Yards to Pound, 3 60 8.49 4.08 4.56 4 ".66 Picks to Inch. 72x63 64x64 68x64 3.95 52x52 2.81 48x48 2.91 48x48 64x64 64x64 48x48 4.00 4 55 64x64 6.69 60x60 5.15 44x44 3. '65 68x68 4.63 48x52 4.33 36x44 1 70 68x68 1.P6 68x68 1.32 68x68 2.96 44x44 3.40 4.02 4;i6 76x84 6 95 64x68 4 '77 48x62 3!66 48x52 3.00 48x48 4'. 67 40x40 3.77 48x48 3.42 .... 3.00 52x56 4.27 64x68 5.17 50x48 4.60 56x56 2 98 48x48 3.70 64x6C 178 Brown Sheetings and Shirtings— Continued. Name, Griffla AA... Width. Indies. 36 ♦' H 30 Hamilton Co. Mills 36>$ H roldM 36 Hartford, A 35 Harvest 36 " 33 Henderson A. 36 Henrietta EE 36 " FFF 36 Here You Are 36% HildrethA 36^ Hill Semper Idem 36 Hill Semper Idem 36 Holbrook Mills R 36 Honest Household 86 Honest Width 86 36 36% 40 7-8 HoosierLL 86 Housewife Friend LL 36 " extra. 36 Huguenot Mills C... ...... 36 A 36 A 36 B 36 H Huron D 353/$ Hyde Park, AAA 36 Hyde Park. XXX 36 Hyde Park, XX 36 Hyde Park, X 36 Illinois C 36 Indiana Standard C 36 LL 36 Indian Head A. . . . : 36 E 48 D 49 B 30 Integrity XX 36 International, C 36 Invincible 30 Ironside A 36 Irving Mills XX 36 James River, HH 36 Jellico Mills, A , 36 B 30 Jonesville 36 Jones' long cloth, CC 39% Just Right 36 Juniata, B 36 r-- King Mfg. Co., AA. EX.. EC. RR.. EC. XX.. IXL 36 36 32 30 32 40 40 Yards to Pound. 5.15 4.17 5.25 3.82 5.51 86 10 83 4.15 3.50 3.52 5.51 4.00 3.98 4.05 3.94 2.73 8.87 2.75 3.01 4.53 Picks to Inch. 44x44 56x60 52x48 44x48 80x64 72x84 60x60 60x60 52x48 52x56 52x56 48x48 48x48 48x48 52x.^2 56x56 3.25 4.00 2.83 2.12 2.57 3.42 40x48 44x50 46x50 44x50 48x48 5"i6 8.02 3.92 44x44 48x48 3".76 48x48 3. '59 ... 3!03 48x48 4.42 56x66 179 Brown Sheetings and bhirtings - Continued. Name. Laconia B. Width. Inches. 36 7-4 8-4 9-4 10-4 11-4 36 36 Lake George, AA AA Lanark, A 36 B 30 C 27 Lancaster 10-4 Langdon Fine, '76 36 GB 36 Langley, A 36 A 30 . 27 Lane 36 •* 30 Laurel Dale 36 Lawrence, LL 36 Lake George, A... 36 AA Lenox Mills, H. Lehigh, E .... Level Best Live Oak, 0. . . S. . . Lock wood, A. B. R. C, D « p " e! 35^ 36 36 36 86 40 36 36 30 28 30 36 42 5-4 6-4 Lockwood 7-4 8-4 9-4 10-4 11-4 Lonsdale 36 Lowell 10-4 Log Cabin 4-4 Louise 35% " 40 Lyman, A 45 B 40 C 36 Macon, A 36 Mathews 36 Mass. Fine, BB 36 J 29 " C 28 Staiid'd." .".'.'.'..* 36 P 30 Magnet • xtra heavy 4-4 Marlboro 7-4 Yards to Pound. 2.38 2.12 1.80 1.65 1.48 3 15 4.38 4 27 5.27 1-98 3.74 3.50 3.00 3.90 4.60 4.72 3.90 3.91 9.00 3.60 3.88 3.75 4.35 7.20 6.59 3. '04 2.32 2.11 1.75 1 56 1 41 2.13 3!54 2' 35 2.56 2^87 4.00 4.03 4 44 2 90 2 '07 Picks to Inch, 64x64 64x64 64x64 64x64 64x64 48x44 56x6U 44x44 44x48 44X44 60x60 72x80 44x44 44x44 44x44 56x56 3e*s36 68x76 68x68 68x72 68x76 64x63 64x64 64x72 68x72 64x68 64x72 64x72 64x72 68x68 76x88 56x60 76x88 48i48 48x54 48x48 60x60 48x48 41x40 48x48 48x48 72x64 180 Brown Sheetings and Shirtings — Continued. Name. Marlboro Maginnis, EE Master Workman, D. Mechanics, AA C Milton, R Middlesex, A Michigan, LL Mohawk Valley Mills . Monticello.XXX. Monadnock Monhansett Mfg. Co. Mystic River Nabob Royal C Nashua, E, Fine..... R »' F •' o".V.V.'.'.'.'.'. p w Nantuck Sheeting . . Nashvill*^, A A. Natchez, A 2.'.'.'.*.'.'.".".V 1 G H.... S. Neponset New Hartford, AA. Newburg C Newberry Mills, A , Newport, A D Newmarket, B ... G... N .. DD.. X.... K « KK New York Mills...'. 9-4.. 10-4. Width. Jnch.es. 9-4 9-4 36 36y, 36 27 SO 36 36 45 7-4 38 8-4 9-4 10-4 11-4 31 29% 8-4 9-4 10-4 11-4 36 36 36 40 27 40 36 42 33 45 48 10-4 36 36 36 35^ 30 30 36 30 36 36 36 31 . 36 36 36 36% 36 36 36 36 31 29 48 57 78 86 Yards to Pound. 1.45 4.00 3.38 12.23 4.00 2" 66 2.14 1,98 1.70 1.53 1.86 3! 92 2.55 1.92 1.82 1.70 5.29 5! 59 3 70 3 53 2.95 3.80 2.74 2.56 2.19 3.35 4.15 2.52 4.20 5.00 4! 40 5.50 4 60 4.19 2.87 4.44 4.47 4.77 3.90 4.00 4.58 5.86 2.30 1.83 1.35 1.25 Picks to Inch. 68x72 72x72 32x28 68x68 64x66 64x64 64x64 64x64 64x64 56x56 50x38 64x60 64x60 64x60 64s60 48x52 72x64 48x52 68x68 64x63 68x68 72x72 68x68 68x68 68x56 4Sx48 40x44 60x60 48x48 40x44 60x64 52x52 44x44 56x60 48x48 52x56 48x52 56x60 64^64 52x60 64x68 64x64 66x60 64x68 64x68 181 Brown Sheetings and Shirtings— Continued. Name. New York Mills, 11-4. Width. Inches. 98 12-4 106 Niobe, E 36 Nonpareil 36 Oeia.XX 28 Old Dominion. AA 36 Oriental Bunting, A 36 36 Osceola, LL 36 B 27 Fine 36 Ostrich 36 Ozark, AA 36 Pacifle, Extra 36 " H 36 •' 54 *• 7-4 •' 8-4 Pacolet Mfgr. Co 36 Pacolet, LL 36 Palatka Bunting S5% Park, A 33 " BB 30 Pedro, B 32 Pelzer, 3-4 " B 4-4 " A 4-4 ** Standard 4-4 Pembroke 45 6-4 7-4 8-4 9-4 Pembrooke 10-4 11-4 12-4 Peerless 27 K 30 Pepperell, E 40 '* R 36 " 83 •• N 30 45 48 " (extra N, 9 twills) 48 7-4 8-4 9-4 10-4 11-4 *' 12-4 Pequa 10-4 Pequot, A. B . W. 36 40 45 48 6-4 7-4 8-4 9-4 Yards to Pound. 1.13 1.00 4.52 5.88 10.28 10.42 2.85 Picks to Inch. 64x68 64^68 52x56 52x52 40x40 36x32 2.79 48x52 2 85 48^48 8.13 56x56 4.33 68x68 1.87 68x72 1.63 64x72 4.07 56x60 4.00 . 8.73 56x64 4.32 44x50 .... 44x40 48x48 60x68 2.15 60x68 1.85 60x68 1.63 60x68 1.52 60x68 3' 44 66x68 3.70 64x64 4.00 64x64 4.39 64x64 2.90 64x64 64x64 2 '.36 64x64 2.10 64x64 1.79 64x64 1.63 64x64 1.47 64x64 1.00 64x64 1.51 64x64 3.17 68x64 2.80 64x64 2 59 72x76 2.34 68x76 2.18 72x76 2.07 72x76 1.71 72x76 1.45 72x76 182 Brown Sheetings and Shirtings Warnp Width, ^^^'^^- Inches. Pequjt 10-4 " 11-4 Pequot E dorado 36 Perkins, X 30 Y 33 Z 36 Phoenix, AA 39 Piedmont 36 30 27 Pioneer, XX 28 Piymouth, H 29% Pocahontas, B 36 E 40 D 30 Pocasset Canoe, E 40 Pocasset, C 36 33 Portsmouth, P 28 B 31 36 Prescott, L 36 Pride of the Nation 36 Preston 36 Prarie Bunting, A 36 Princeton, 401. 36 Princess 36 40 Queen 36 KandolphAA 36 Rexford Stand'd, A A 36 Richmond Co. Mills DB... 36 Riverside Mills XX 36 Rockingham A 36 Rosalie F 36 Royal Standard 36 Royal Standard 35 Rye Rock A 36 Sa'isburyE 39 R 36 33 N 30 Saracen 36 SaranacA 36 E 40 R 36 O 30 Salisbury R 36 Scotia Mills O. M 36>^ Sea Foam 36 S^a Shore Sheetings 21% Shawmut LL 36 XX 36 Shamrock 36 Sherman 30 Sherman, LL 86 Sibley B 40 •* F 40 Silver Lake 36 Snow Flake 36 Continued. Yards to Pow'd. 1.33 Picks to Inch 72x76 68x76 4. 67 4.31 3.90 3.50 3.09 4! 62 60x60 64X64 64x64 64x64 48x48 38x44 48x44 4'96 3 90 3.65 80x72 80x72 3!i6 3.63 7. '66 9.41 64x64 64x64 64x64 64x64 48x48 4!56 3.85 64x64 84x84 3 93 44x36 56x60 2'. 76 4.69 5.36 48x44 48x52 52x48 2" 96 2.90 3.60 48x48 52x52 48x48 3'. 40 3.72 4.05 4.40 4.38 4.83 3.08 3.45 64x64 64x64 64x64 64x64 54x60 52x52 68x68 64x68 4. '74 48i48 2.73 4.00 3.21 40x32 52x52 64x64 5. 09 46x40 2!56 183 Brown Sheetings and Shirtings v>,*«z, Width. ^^^^ Inches. Springfield B 36 Square 36 Sc. Lawrence 36 Statue of Liberty 36 Stark AA 36 Sterling AA 36 Stanley Mills 30 Superior W. E 36 Superior W. E 36 Superior Sea Island 36 Sua Tissues W 37 Swift Creek 36 Tallahassee AA 36 A 30 Tennessee Premium 36 Tennis 36 Terrace City K 36 The Square Shirting 36 The Derby 36 Tit for Tat Al 36 Trenton Steam Mills 28 TremontO 36 CC 36 Tuckahoe Superior 36 Universal 36 UtieaC 36 Utioa Cotton Co 36 UticaMfffOo 36 Utica Steam Mills 39)^ Nonp'l. 40 « <( <( 48 " " •• 58 «< «« •» Q_4 u .i .i jO-4 " « «• " 11_4 " «. « 12-4 Veil 36 Verona 36 Virginia Family 36 Vineland 36 Victoria R 36 AA ?6 E 40 LL 36 Volunteer L 36 B 32 C 28^ D. 28 WachusettA 36 B 30 40 48 Warren AA 40 Wamsutta 36 " 0,XX. 40 59 72 79 89 99 Continued. Yird8 to Pound. 96 85 4.83 4.79 4.86 4.76 9.00 Picks to Inch, 60x68 18x48 56x56 48x54 48x52 56x56 4.14 56x60 4*00 48x52 48x44 5.45 48x44 5 44 48x44 3.14 68x84 2.94 92x96 2.23 68x72 1.91 64x64 1 37 64x68 1.31 68x68 1.14 68x68 .98 64x68 8.77 88x84 3' 68 64x64 3.95 52x52 64s 64 3.92 52x56 5.42 .... 5.98 8.18 6.93 2.85 48x48 3.42 48x48 2.57 48x52 2.12 48x52 1.80 72x76 1.45 72x76 1 30 72x76 1.16 72x76 1 05 72x76 184 Brown Sheetings and Shirtings- ^''™- lit,. WamButta 108 Washington, A 86 Wasuc 36 Waterville 36% Washaucum, A 36 Whtfield 36 Fine 40 Windsor, H 36 Winthrop, L 36 48 WilllamsvilleSealsl- and 36 Wolcott, A 36 Yard Stick 36 Yoeemite 40 -Continued. Yards to Pound. .96 3.59 Picks to Inch. 72x76 52x60 6.16 64x68 3.66 5.34 56x60 52x48 S.90 80x80 3.52 60x60 185 BLEACHED SHEETINGS AND SHIETINGS. Name. Width. Inches. ABO 36 Alleghany 36 Allendale 42 45 6-4 7-4 8-4 9-4 10-4 11-4 Alex 36 Alexandria 36 .? 42 46 Alpine Jacque 36 Alpine Rose (Batiste) 36 (twilled) 36 Alpine Twill 36 AltoonaH 27 Amesbury C 32 Amory 36 Anchor 32 Androscoggin AA. ... 36 L : .. . 36 L 26 42 46 6-4 7-4 8-4 9-4 10-4 Art Cambric 36 Ashbyrne 36 Atlantic 42 , 5-4 " 6-4 " 7-4 " 8-4 " 9-4 " 10-4 " 11-4 36 36 36 36 36 Aurora ** Cambric Ballardvale Btrker Barker , Bay Mills 36 BB fine muslin cambric. . . 36 Beaver Falls Mills 26 Bell Brand 36 Berkley cambric 36 Berkley cambric 36 Berkeley, No, 60 36 No. 150 36 No. 180 36 " Madapolam 36 Berkshire X 36 RHR 86 " Hiawatha 36 Yards to Pound. 2.65 2.35 2.08 1.87 63 50 3.73 3!23 50 69 8.70 Picks to Inch. 64x60 64x60 64x60 64x60 64x60 64x60 80x80 72x72 72x72 104x96 84x96 88x88 3.98 88x88 4.17 80x76 3 65 80x7tj 3.64 72x64 3.37 72x64 2.57 72x64 2.20 72x64 1.92 72x64 1.71 72x64 1.54 72x64 100x98 * • • ■ 84x88 3.80 88x84 100x100 5.00 64x64 4 25 80x80 4.27 80x76 3 91 88x84 5.90 100x80 7 86 64x60 5'. 27 120x168 5.28 112x112 5.58 88x84 5.27 120x108 7.32 120x128 4.40 108x100 4.50 80x80 72x72 5.38 56x60 186 Bleached Sheetings and Shirtings— Continued. Name. Berkshire Lily Best Yet Width. Inches. 33 Peacock 31 Bugle 31 Wire Twist... . 33 AX 36 XIX 3 4 X 3-4 36 " 32 Big Bonanza 30 t < { t no Big Drive 36 Big Injun 27 Blackburn AA 86 Blackstone Mfg. Co. A A . . . 36 •' "... 36 BoottK 28 " E 36 Boston 5-4 " 42 '* , 45 " 50 ' 6-4 •• = 7-4 " 8-4 " 9-4 10-4 26 28^ 36 36 5ard Bound-to- Win Buntin, Trump ' Branch Elver Bric-a-Brac Broadway . 36 B Shlrtmaker's Finish 36 Burleigh Long Cloth 36 " «' 36 Cabot 36 36 31 9-8 42 46 Canoe River 27 Capitol 36 Cascade O 36 Casco 46 Cast Iron 36 Chain Lightning 27 Champion 36 Chapman X 36 Chariot 36 Charter Oak 36 Chesterfield 36 Chestnut Hill. Clinton Al Clover Dell Cock- of-the- Walk Commonwealth O Conestoga Steam Mills. 36 24 36 27 36 3-4 10-4 90 Yards to Pound. 5.75 6.20 6.20 5.18 4.80 4.45 4.67 5.93 4.34 2.37 2.09 2.75 2.52 2.33 1.97 1.72 1.52 1 41 9.89 5.70 4.63 4.68 4.65 4.58 5.68 4" 25 3.92 7.70 3.81 Picks Inch. 72x68 60x6) 60x60 64x64 56x60 64x60 68x52 76x76 76x76 68x60 64X64 76x68 76x64 72x60 76x68 76x68 76x68 76x64 76x64 76x72 60x46 64x48 108x92 92x88 80x76 76x76 80x76 80x76 80x76 60x56 80x76 5.50 4.31 60x56 72x64 4-.' 80 64x64 5*26 4.30 64x60 84x80 8. '66 1.11 56x52 60x48 60x48 187 Bleached Sheetings and Shirtings — Oontinued. Name. Width. Yards to Picks t» Inches. Pound. Inch CoBgress 36 Conquest 36 Continental Mills 36 3.02 70x60 H 48 2.62 64x68 LN 36 4.00 88x88 A 36 4.20 84X84 half bleached. 36 68x72 Conway W 36 Cooley Homestead 36 Copper Fastened 35% 4.38 60x55 Coral Eeef A 32 30 B Cream-of-the-Mill 36 36 ••••■ Crusader Cumberland 36 80x84 Dauntless 36 5.85 60x60 DavolMlll 36 36 3.75 3.90 84x88 Defiance 84x88 (t 36 . 36 36 86 36 3.90 3.14 7". 05 88x84 De Soto Mills E 52x48 Dexter XX Diamond Field Diamond Hill Cambric. . . 88x80 Dorchester 36 Duneilen Mills 36 36 36 3.48 Dunham OCO D wight Anchor Co 76x76 " Cambric . . 36 (( 42 45 . 36 4.66 «« Dyerville A 80x76 East Hampton 36 Edwards AA 36 . 30 5". 86 Edward Harris 72x72 Eikwoods . 36 Ellerton WS 36 . 36 4.50 72x72 EMC Exc^iaior . 27 Exeter . 36 4.20 72x68 CI . 30 . 36 . 36% 5.00 4! 66 72x6& P-PP Cambric 88x76 88x!$0 PairmountQ . 36 5.00 64x64 Parmer's Choice . 36 5.00 64x64 Farwell Mills . 36 . 42 . 45 . 36 4.38 3.72 3.48 80x80 (< 80x80 ({ 80x80 Favorite Fearless-of-all-Competit'n 36 4.45 72x72 Fidelity . 36 4 30 84x80 Field and factory. 4-4 First Bale . 36 . 36 . 32 . 22 7-8 . 3-4 5.54 4.80 68x64r First Call 68x64 tc i< il « Fitchville . 36 4.60 72x72 Flower-of-the-Mlll 36 Forget-me-not 36 188 Bleached Sheetings and Shirtings Name Width, ^^""^^- Indies. Forrestdale 36 Forrest Mills 36 36 31 7-8 Fruit of the Loom 36 31 Night Robe 36 " Cambric... 36 (100s) 36 31 42 - " 50 5-4 6-4 7-4 (extra) 8-4 9-4 10-4 10-4 Full Value 36 Full Yard Wide 36 Gem of the Spindle 36 George Washington XX ... 36 Gibraltar 36 Gilded Age 36 Gilt Edge 36 Gladstone 36 Glad Tidings 36 Glen Alpine 36 Glendale 36 Globe AAA 36 " AA 36 Glory 36 Golden Wedding 36 Gold Medal 36 32M Great Falls Mfg. Co. J. . . . . 39% S Tiger 31 M.Dog. 33 Great Republic 36 Greene G 36 GrlnnelltiDe 9-8 5-4 6-4 7-4 8-4 9-4 10-4 11-4 Grosvenor Dale 35 Gypsy Queen 3-4 Happy Hit 36 Hartford 86 Harvest E 36 Hercules 36 Hero 36 Highland Mills 36 Hillsdale Mfg.. Co 36 Hill's Semper Idem 36 -Continued. Yards to Picks to m Pound. Inch. 4 25 80x76 5 00 72x68 4.77 70x68 5.80 62x68 4.10 88x84 4 10 S8x84 4 32 88x80 3.72 100x100 4 32 83x80 3.64 88x80 2.96 88x72 3.07 88x80 2.78 88x76 1.98 80x60 1-69 80x64 1.49 80x60 1.12 80x60 1.43 72x64 80x76 3.62 76x72 1.63 4 36 76x72 5.46 72x64 4.27 64x68 5.18 72x68 4.72 76x72 4.20 80x80 5.00 . 64x64 3 47 104x96 3.21 100x100 2.69 104x92 2.58 104x92 2.04 104x92 104x92 4.60 72x72 8.70 76x68 5.00 68x68 4 24 80x80 189 Bleached SBeetings and Shirtings — Continued. Hill ITaine. 6 Semper Idem (MDl'd) HEP Fine Cambric TT rri -r> H. W. G * Shrunk " Finish .' ,' Holly Tree Long Cloth. . . " Cambric Holm(}sville Night Gown. B H&E H&E WT XXX Homespun Homestead Mills " Cooley's " Cambric Hope Housekeeper Housewife Howe Hubbard Ideal Q Indian H ad Shrunk Industry Invincible Iron Pier Jack Horner Jaeque Bose Com. Cambric. Jacque Eose, Cambric J. C. Knight, Cambric JewetL City Mills John Hancock Jumping Horse Just Out Kennebec Eivtr XX BB King Bee Cambric King Philip AP OP... " Cambric . . KMQ King's Shrunk Finest. Knight's Cambric Laconia Mills. Good-Night Cambric. Width. Inches. . 36 . 36 . ^2 . 7-8 36 45 36 96 42 ;6 36 36 36 31 33 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 35 45 36 36 86 30 36 36 33 48 36 36 27 36 36 36 33 36 36 36 36 • 36 36 33 42 46 6-4 7-4 8-4 9-4 10-4 11-4 36 Tai-ds to Pound. 4.26 4.36 3.76 3.44 5.75 5 16 4.85" 6.00 5.75 4.50 4.15 4.80 4!65 5.39 5.73 5.40 5.40 4.80 3.65 4!75 6.15 3.80 3.67 5.75 7.00 2. '70 2 35 2!69 1.89 1.65 2.63 Picki^ to Inch. 84x76 84x80 84x84: 84x84 84x72 64J.64: 72x68 68x64 68x64 72x68 76x76 76x72 76x72 60x40 48x48 56x56 64x64 84x84 84x84 76x84 68x64 64x60 84x84 88x84 96x104 84x80 64£64 64x64 64x64 64x64 64x64 64x64 96x80 190 Bleached Sheetings and thirtings T,r Width. Name. Inches. Iiafayette 36 Lancaster 10-4 Landseer. 36 Ijangdon GB 36 " "76" 36 «« 42 " 45 Langham Cambric 33 Lexington 36 lilly ot the VaUey, h'f bl'd . 36 Xiinwood 36 Lion 36 Little Chief Cottons 36 Loch Lamond Cambrics.. . 36 Loekwood VVV 36 •' " 42 «• '« ' 42 '* !!!!!!..!!! 45 •• 45 •« " 50 " 5-4 " 6-4 «« «« 7_4 " '.'.'.\'.'.'.'.'.'.'. 8-4 " 9-4 " 10-4 " 11-4 Lonsdale 36 32 . Cambric . 36 Nameless Star. . . 363^ Lowell 10-4 Lucky Hit Cambric 36 Maconpin Mills 36 Madapolam Cambrics 36 M gic 32 ♦' 26 Magnolia 36 Masonvill 36 « 36 Medal 36 MelroseMill 36 Millview 36 Milton Falls 36 Mohawk 7-8 Mohawk Valley Mills 42 .... 5-4 .... 6-4 .... 7-4 .... 8-4 " .... 9-4 •* " .... 9-4 " .... 10-4 " .... 11-4 Monadnock 8-4 9-4 10-4 " 12-4 Monohansett h'f b'ld 36 M'f g Co. . . . 36% Continued. Yards to Picks to Pound. Inch. 5.00 64x64 1.90 64x5£ 4.10 80x80 3.86 92x84 3.80 88x84 88x80 4^25 76x68 4.30 84x80 4.71 80x64 5.26 76x68 3 75 88x84 3.12 72x64 3 12 08x64 2.99 68x60 3.01 68x60 2.57 68x64 1*89 68x64. 1.67 68X^4 1.45 72x64 4 3i 84x80 4.70 84x84 104x96 4.37 80x72 4.40 108xl"cb 8 '39 52x40 4." 02 88x84 3.98 88x84 390 84x88 5.06 64x64 2.22 72x60 2.91 64x64 2.56 64^64 2.21 72x60 1.86 72x60 1.76 68x60 1.69 68xeO 1.52 72x60 1.36 64x64 2.11 6Sx52 1 88 68x52 1.69 68x52 1.10 68x52 4 46 72x64 72x68 191 Bleached Sheetings and Shirtings — Continued. Name Width. Inches. Monogram 36 Mont Clare 36 Morning Star 36 Nashua E 36 P. W. Naumk€ag rwill.. 42 5-4 0-4 10-4 8-4 9-4 10-4 Needle Cotton. 36 Netherwood 36 New Candidate 35% New Bedford Sheetings... . 9-8 .... 5-4 .... 48 .... 50 .... 6-4 .... 7-4 .... 8-4 " .... 9-4 " Cambric '* Night robe. New Jersey Newmarket New iTork Mills, Extra Water Twist... Twilled Jeans. N Dicker. 100. Nonpareil . Odk Grove. Oakland.. . . Oak Lawn. O Shlrtmaker's Finish Our Choice , Our Own Oar Pride Our Reliance Paragon Peabody Mills H " Mill View. Pedro Peerless PelhamQ Pembroke. 10-4 11-4 36 36 36 36 36 36 5-4 6-4 8-4 9-4 10-4 10-4 11-4 36 31>< 36 " 32 27 36 36 32 36 36 30 36 36 36 36 32 27 36 36 36 42 45 Yords to Pound. 3.50 3 11 3.02 Picks to Inch. 76x68 76x68 76x68 1.60 1.43 1.28 30 72 89 60 .73 4.55 4.87 2 61 06 50 23 20 20 1.00 4.75 5 '.77 5.17 4 50 5.73 5.60 4.40 4.74 4.70 4.70 4.70 76x80 80x76 92x84 88x84 76x68 68x64 96x96 92x104 68x56 68x56 72x56 72x60 60x48 72x68 68a64 72x68 68x60 72x64 76x72 64x64 60x56 72x68 60x52 68x60 68x64 64x64 192 Bleached Sheetings and Shirtings— Continued. WamP Width. Pembroke 6-4 7-4 7-4 8-4 9-4 ;.. 10-4 11-4 ; 12-4 People's Cry, (The) 36 Pepperell E 40 R , 36 33 N 30 45 48 7-4 8-4 8-4 9-4 9-4 10-4 11-4 12-4 •' Mfg.Co.,Ex-HG Tw'ls 36 Pequa 10-4 Pequot A, Heavy 36 •• B 40 45 W 48 6-4 6-4 7-4 7-4 8-4 8-4 9-4 9-4 10-4 11-4 Eldorado 36 PerkinsZ 36 Y 33 " X 30 Phoenix AA 39 Piedmont 36 ; 30 27 Pocahontas R 36 E 40 D 30 Pocasset Canoe E 40 Pocasset C 36 33 Portsmouth 36 B 31 P 28 Prescott L 36 Pride-of-the-Nation 36 Preston 36 Princeton 401 36 S 93 Yards o Picks to Pound. Inch. 2.65 64x64 2 40 64i64r 60x68 2 i5 60x68 1.85 60x68 1.63 60x68 1.52 60x68 . • « • 72x56 3 44 66x68 3.70 64x64: 4.00 64x64 4.39 64x64: 2.90 64x64 64x64 2.36 64x64 2.10 64x64 1.95 68x64 1 79 64x64 1.73 72x60 1 63 64x64 1.47 64x64 1.00 64x64 3.26 100x60 1.51 64x64 3.20 68x64 2.80 64x64 2.59 72x76 2 34 68x76 2.18 72x76 2.29 72x68 2.07 72x76 1.89 72x64 1.71 72x76 1.68 72x72 1.45 72x76 1.49 72x72 1.33 72x76 68x76 3!96 64x64 4 31 64x64 4 67 60x60 3.50 64x64 3.09 48x48 48x44 4 62 48x44 3.90 80x72 3,10 64x64 310 64x64 3.63 64x64 64x64 9!4i 48x48 7.00 64x64 4.50 64x64 3 85 84x84 56x60 193 Bleached Sheetings and Shirtings— Continued, Name. Qainnebaug Co Rochdale (h'f bl'd) Rosalind (As You Like It). (( »( tc Second to None , Security Senate Mills (h'f bl'd) Sentinel , Silver Queen AA Shamrock. , Sibley Signal A " B..... Snow White Sonora Social C " g::::-;.;:::.-.::::::: " W Standard Standish Star ot the Nation StarW State-of -Maine Statute , Sterling Sun Sunlight Superior American " Boyal Bunting. . Telegraph Ten Strike The "Cooley Homestead". The Sun Cotton The Victor The Pennant Thorndale Cambric Top-of-the Heap Trump Card. True-as-Steel. . . Triumph Tuscarora Mills Night Robe Universal Dtica Cotton Steam Mills, '• Ex. Heavy.. " Nonpareil . . " Ex. Heavy. . Width. Yards to Picks to Inches. Pound. Inch. 36 4.70 80x72 36 4.94 68x68 36 76x76 36 4.32 80x76 36 5.32 68x60 7-8 27 30 6.20 60x56 36 4.18 68x72 27 36 36 36 36 32 5.66 64x64 27 6.12 64x64 36 36 32 36 4.75 80x76 36 5.10 72x72 36 5.97 68x64 36 4.15 88x84 36 4.35 80x76 36 36 5.30 64x64 36 36 32 36 3.59 80x68 27 56x60 36 76x80 36 8.97 44x40 30 6 00 60x52 36 4.50 72x68 36 36 36 4-4 36 36 32 36 7-8 27 36 36 5.68 68x60 36 3.28 80x68 36 3.28 80x60 36 36 3.65 80x76 3C 3.00 68x64 86 3 30 92x96 36 3.55 96x80 5-4 2.72 68x60 6-4 2.17 68x56 7-4 8-4 1.81 68x60 8-4 1.68 72x 72 194 Bleached Sheetings and Shirtings - Continued. j^ame Width. Yards to Picks to ^^,. „ ,, ' Inches. Found. Inch. Utica Cotton Steam Mills. 8-4 1.61 72x60 9-4 1 35 68x64 10-4 1.31 68x60 10-4 1.68 72x60 100 1.14 68x60 " Diamond U. 36 3.47 72x72 Valley Mills 27 Q 85% 7.89 60x61 Q 25 6.80 52x44 Victor 36 Vineyard 36 Waltnam XX (h'f bl'd) 36 3 48 72x60 Wamsutta Mills O-XX. ... 36 3.50 92x92 " 42 " ST 45 2.b3 72x64 " 50 2.28 88x88 " 60 3.35 " Cambric 36 .... 68x56 " Cambric, fine.... 36 6.15 100x96 " 9-8 3.47 88x88 " 5-4 3.09 72x72 " ST 6-4 1.98 72x72 ♦• 7-4 2.06 72x64 " Twilled 8-4 1.44 72x68 " 9-4 1.33 " 9-4 1.33 72x72 " Twilled 10-4 1.17 " ST 10-4 1.17 72x68 " 11^ 1.03 72x64 " ^ 12-4 " Ex. Heavy Jean,! 86 4 82 68xe4 " Gold Medal 36 4.82 68x64 " •• NB.. 36 3.36 63x56 " Nift:tlt Bobes.... 36 4 82 68x64 " " d'blewarp 35^ 2 82 80x60 Warren Mfg. Co. linen fin.. 36 ... . .. Washington 86 5.00 64x64 Wessacumcon B 36 " D 36 4.33 Water Witch 36 " " 80 .... .... Wauregan lOO's 36 .... lOOslOO ISO. 1 36 8.90 88x88 " Cambric 36 .... 108x94 White Horse 36 5.00 64x64 White Eock 36 4.10 88x80 Whiting 36 Whitinsvilie Cotton Mills. 36 4 50 80x76 " '• . 36 • 4.58 • 80x76 Williamsville Al 36 3.60 88x64 Winchester 36 Winona 36 8.60 88x84 WinthropAA 36 " E 42 3.62 60x68 " 45 2 75 64x68 Woodbury 36 5 30 64x64 World Wile 86 Worth 36 4.80 72i60 Note. — Four ounces to the yard is equal to four 3-ar(ls to the pound avoirdupois: and five ounces to the yai-d is equarto 3.20 yards to the pound avoirdupois. 195 Addenda to BleacLed Sheetings and. Shirtings^ Name. Width. Beaver Falls Mills XXX... 26 Ed^ewood 37 Ideal Q 36 Just Out , . 26 Monohansett, Hf-Bl'oh'd.. 36 Nameless Star 36% Newport Mills 36 Ked Star Nameless 36 White Star Nameless 36 Sunbeam Cottons 36 Yards Picks to to Pound. Inch. 7.85 64X60 5.17 6UX60 5.39 60x40 6.55 64x60 4 46 72X64 3.37 80x72 4.92 68x60 4.51 76x72 4.94 76x60 4.91 72x64 196 TICKINGS. Yards Picks Name. Width. to to Jnclies. Pound. Inch. Amoekeagr Mfg Co 32 1.96 52x80 It ■< 3.^4 2 00 AC a! .' . . ?6 31^ 1 85 1 94 It It ^ 31% 2.03 i > li a", .'.v.. 30%@31 2.27 (( ( XX " 32 1.'86 56x6» <> <> X " 3l@32 2 64 56x60 " "Awn'g: satine 32 1.97 56x80 •■ " Garniture 32 2 01 Belgrade, fancy red 135. . . 30 2.76 76x52 Berwick Mfg Co. BA, fancy colored 30 2.84 84x64 Brandywine Mills, No. 10. 31% 3.08 44x96 Birmingham Uonestoga Steam Mills .... 33 2. '64 Prem. A 36 1.99 " FF .. . 33 2 04 Extra 36 2 25 ( •« 32 36 2.50. 2.30 Gold Medal'. ■... * CT.... 36 2.42 CCA. . 31% 2.58 AA.... 29 3.40 fancy red EK. . 33 2.04 32x60 Cordis, ACE ... 32 2.07 • • • • " No. 1..... 32 32 2.07 2 23 " No. 2 ^ " No. 3 30 2.48 " WS., 29 4.00 60x76 Challenge, fancy 30 3.84 36x84 3.71 36x84 Endurance, fanc> r 32 2.66 44x96 Evei ett, plaid PT 30 2.40 Farmer's 2 88 36x80 Hamilton Mfg Cc ) 30% 2.42 56x56 i 2.77 72x48 John K. King Mfg. Co. . . , 30 2.93 68x48 London Mills XX 30 > 30 3.52 2.85 64x38 Massachusetit, stan'd. . .E DN 26%-7 2.98 DN 27 3 05 DN 27 3.05 G 29-30 3 80 G r 29-30 3 80 Normandie, standard 29- 2.73 70x52 ki (• 29 2.78 68x52 Pacolet Manufacturing Co . 29% 2.87 Peppereil, brown 29 2.84 72x52 " bleached' . 27 3 28 80x48 " dragon brand. 11% 3 36 80x48 Plymouth Standard my. 2.89 300 29,^4 2.60 Prescott, standard blue D 29-30 3.25 Eoyal, standard brown . . 29 2.72 64x68 250X 30>^ 2.49 68X56 " bleached 27>^-8 3.11 76x18 Stark HD, brown stan'd. . 37 2.42 66x52 " A. Imp'd " 29%@30 " A, blpached 28 7dx6S Suff ilk, standard D ! 30 2!85 198 COTTON CHLVIOTS. Yards Name. Width. to l^iches. Pound. Amoskeag (stripes) 27^ 3.32 (stripes) 27% 3.55 Alabama (stripes) 26 4.513^ Algeron (plaids) 4.36 J5engal (strip -s) 273^ 4 . 13 Crown A (strines & checks) 26 4.89 " (plaids) 27% 4.16 Conestoga (stripes) 28 2 . 69 Falmoutn checks, BB 27 4 52 Forresn Hill 28 4.18 Great Republic . . 25% 4. 26 ladna Mills 26^ 4.84 Philadelptiia 4.51 Pioneer Plaids 28 4.36 Prodigy (stripes). 29% 3.85 Rosedale 27 5.42 Slater 27 3.42 Santa Rosa % . . 27% 4.45 Real Calpdonia, the JCK 4.30 Unca^ville 27 '^.37% '27 2 37 ► ♦ ^ DOMESTIC GII&HAMS. Yards Name. Width. to Inches. Pound. Amoskeag Mfg. Co 26% 6 . 28 Staples 26% 5.56 " Fancy Staples. 26% 5.56 Canton 26 6.91 " Checks ._ 26% 6.34 Chalon Cloth... 26 7.53 " • Persian 26% 6.61 •« Zanzibar -I-... 25>^ 5.58 Arasapha Mrg. Co 29 6.44 Bay State 25% 8.34 Caledonia 26^ 6.68 El oeron, Seersuckers 25% 6.87% Everett Classics 26 5 . 6!j Franklin Suitings 26% 6.89 Glpnarie : 25% 6.37 G)tham 25% 5.91 Johnson Mfg. Co • . 26 6 . 53 Pin Checks 26 6.52 PlaM Checks 26 5.92 Loraine Knotted. 29 5 42 Manchester 27 6.04 Monogram 26% 6.52 Nevelle Seersucker.^ 26 — Parkhill Mtg. Co. (Toile Du Nord) 25% 6,70 Pontiac Seersuckers 25 7 . 58 Rindelman Reufrew. Dress 26 6.24 Novelties 5.86 Tacoma Cloth 25^ 7.27 Woodboro Mfg. Co 27 7 . 08 York Mfg. Co, Staples 26 ' 6 . 38 Picks to Inch. 48x33 36x40 40x44 Picks to Inch. 72x76 68x76 68x76 56x60 56x60 48x72 48x56 60x76 36x40 36x44 48x56 40x56 52x72 44x72 40x48 44x53 56x68 56x64 64x64 76x80 44x52 48x56 52x68 60x72 40x56 40x44 60x60 52x56 48x56 48x56 52x56 199 CAMLETS. Yards Picks Name. Width. to to . Inches. Pound. Inch. York CT 28 2.75 ► ♦ ^ OOTTOIS BUNTDTa. Yards Picks Name. Width. to to Inches. Ppund. In^h. Arehery 36 8.63 38x40 ICatioaal 1150 34x82 ► ♦ 4 OOTTON OHEOKS. Yards Picks Name. Wid h. to to Inches- Pound. Inch. Otis, i.pron 30 3.21 * *Dli!fioult to oount, pieks. ► ♦ 4 PLAT-POLD OAMBEIOS. Yards PioT^ 44x52 York Manul'g Co. XXX 3.44 40x66 ► ■♦ 4 STJITINaS AND SKIETINGS. Yards Picks Name. Width. to to Inches. Pound- Inch. York Skirting.... 27 4.84 52x76 Novelty Suitings 26 .... 60x60 " 26 .... 64x64 Sherwood Suitings 26 7.34 52x68 Fenno Stripes 27 .... 60x68 200 BEOWN COTTON PLANNELS. Name. Width. Inches. BUerton HHH 85^ WH ■ 35 H 31 WN 36 N 32 O : 28% P 27% Q 28 R ... 28 S 28 T 28 V 27% CL 30% CM. 28 ON •- 27 GlendaleNN 26 Buokskln EE 36 GooiLuak4 27% 5 6 28 U 28K 18 29% 24 27 ■ " 80 Maesaehu?etts E... ...... . 28 Royal Standard, No. 1 " 8 28% '^ 5 27 " 10.... 27 "20.... 27% " 80. .. 27% •' 40.... 27 "..45.... 27% " 45.... 27% "50.... 28 " 90.... 35% " 100... 36 TremontM 27% DL 28% D 28% H 28% P 28% T 28 A 28% Y 29% Z 28% X 31 XX 30% XXX 32% XXXX 36 F 27 U 26% Yard$ io Powid. 1.44 1.78 1.96 2.08 2.15 2.58 2.84 .91 .10 .37 ,56 98 4.36 4.80 7.10 4.8g 5.00 4.84 5.57 2.90 3 49 2.57 2.46 3.43 4.00 ■4! 86 4.53 3.99 8.41 3.34 3.57 2.83 3 34 2.72 1.79 1.45 5.30 5 00 4.50 4.00 3.60 3.25 3.00 2.80 2.60 2 50 2.20 2.00 2.00 5.00 4.50 Picks to Inch. 84x48 76x52 76x48 80x56 76x52 84x56 84x64 3SX48 84x48 84x48 84x48 84x48 e4s44 64x44 201 Brown Cotton Plannels— Continued. Name, Width. Inches. Tremont L 26% B 36>^ N 28 283^ E 29 Z 2S% W 29 V 28K G 30% EX 31% R 31^ G— GG 36 Saoo, ooiored plush Syracuse, ooiored plush ... 2^ Yards to Pound. 4.00 3.75 3.40 3.00 2.75 3.ft0 2.85 2 20 2.00 1.75 1.60 1.50 2.7S 8.54 Pleht to Inch. 28348 52sde 24s72 ► ■» ■< BLEACHED CASTTGIT FLANNELS. Nmme. Width. Inches. EUertonHHH 32 WH 36 H WN 32 N 20 28^ P 28 Q 26 E 8 28X n * rri CL 27 CM 25 CN 24 Good Luck "6' 26 "14" 26 Eoyal Sta^idard "50" 28 "30" " "5" Yards Picks to to Pound. Inch. 1.64 * 2.30 .... i'.bk 2 62 2.83 3.10 3.10 3.62 4!67 5.29 5.49 4.41 88x48 8.79 80x48 2.90% 84x44 8.48 88x48 5.57 80 x56 *Picks cannot be taken owing to h^,vy nap. -»••♦••< OOTTONADES. Navne Width. Inches: New York Mills D and T. 37>^ Wachusett 33>^ York Mfg. Co. XXX 43 Yards to Pound. 2.40 8 56 3.75 Picks to Inch. 48x60 48x72 40x40 202 DENIMS. Yards Name Width. to Inches. Pouni. Amoskeag Mfg Co. brown D, 9oz... 27%@28 1.67 '• " 27%@28 1.69 " blue D... 27H®28 2.20 " 9oz. 27%@28 2.24 Oolumbian XXX brown .... 27^-^28 2 . 98 '• heavy m'x'dfoy 27^@28 2.94 " XXX blue fancy m'x'd 27^@28 2 . 98 Everett blue, DD 28 2.45 " imp'd brown, BD.. 28%@2B% 2.48 28@28)^ 2.45 " slate, SD 28 2.45 " imp'd blue, DDN.. 28 2.45 " faney stripes 28 2.45 " " checks 28 2.45 Oakland Mills A brown .... 263^ 3.78 OtisDD 26% 3.25 Palmer MiIIr, fa-, oy, 418. . . 27X@28 2 58 Pearl Eiver BD bro\ra. ... 28 Sioo River, slate, D 28 2.75 blue, DD 28 2.75 Shetuoket Co., blue 28 1 ' 84 Uncasville 28 2.71 Warren Cotton Mills, 941 . . 28 2 . 79 Whittenton a A 27% 3.25 York, blue, DD 28 2.45 " brown, DDXX 28 2.45 " slate, DDA 28 2.45 " fancy stripes 25 2.45 '* fancy plaids 28 2.46 ► ♦ ■< SHIETING OLOTH. Yards Name. Widih. to Inches. Pound. Brerett, Tiger Checks JP . . 29 2 . 75 " Plaid JPC. 29 2.75 Strip's JPS 29 2.75 Picks to Inch. 48x48 40x48 48x84 40x72 28x86 28x86 36x68 36x64 48x84 28x44 48x52 40x44 36x72 28x40 Pieks te Ineh. ► ♦ ^ SATTEElfg. Name. Wtdtfi. Inches. Amory Silesia Jean Dale River Twills Naumkeag Twills Yeurds io Pound. Pi»hs to Ineh. 4.26 4.84 2M% 64xli2 203 Widths, Lengths, Eeeds, Picks and "Weights of British. Cottons. The accompanying table gives the width, yards, reed, pick and weight of British cotton piece goods, such as Madapollams, Shirtings, Jaconets, Mulls, T— cloths^ Mexicans, and Long Cloths: Inches. 32 . .Madapollams 46 Weight. Yds, Reed. Picks. Lbs. Ozs. 12 10 6 32. a 46 12 12 6 32. . 46 14 14 7 39. .Shirtings 37* 12 8 5 4 86 (( 37i 1^ 1^ 6 36. • ( 37* 13 11 7 39. <( 374 14 13 7 36. i( 37* 16 13 8 8 39. " (China quality). .37* 16 15 8 4 39. " 37* 16 15 8 4 39. ( ( 37^ 17 18 9 12 39. (1 37* 19 19 10 45. (C 37* 13 10 7 45. (( 37* 14 12 8 45. (( 37* 16 15 9 50. (( 37* 14 13 9 50. < 20 20 12 14 12 12 2 2 39. C( 4 39. (( 20 14 14 2 8 39. (< 20 16 15 2 14 45. (( 20 14 12 2 8 45. «• 20 14 14 2 12 45 (( 20 20 16 16 15 15 3 3 4 50. (( 10 39. .Mulls 20 10 8 0* 39. (< . 20 10 10 2 39. (( 20 12 10 Of 39. (( 20 12 12 5 39. (< 20 14 12 6-7 39. t( 20 14 14 8 39. < < 20 16 14 9-10 39. (1 20 16 16 12 44. ( ( 20 16 15 2 49. iC 20 16 15 2 4 54. (i 20 16 15 2 8 60. '• 20 16 15 2 12 30 .T Cloths. 24 24 12 12 12 12 4 5 8 32 (( 32. i( 24 14 14 6 10 82. '* (Mexican) 24 18 18 7 r 36, ,Long Cloths 36 12 12 8 39. (( . 36 12 12 9 45 << 36 12 12 10 204- Early Okronology of Kaw Cotton, Cotton Yarn, Cotton Goods, Etc. The following represents the chronology of Kaw Cotton from A. D. 800 to A. D. 1845; Cotton Yam from A. D. 1530 to A. D. 1837; Cotton Goods from A. D. 1252 to A. D. 1787; and Printing and Dye- ing Calico from A. D. 1631 to A. D. 1831: RAW COTTON. 800 Cotton used in Greece as a material for making paper. 1298 Cotton used in England for Candle Wick. 1560 Cotton imported into England from the Levant. 1S41 Cotton Wool imported into England exclusively from the Levant 1688 450,000 lbs. of cotton wool imported into Marseilles from the Levant. 1750 3,831,620 lbs. cotton wool imported into France. 1778 Gold medal given by the Koyal Society of Arts of England to Mr. Andrew Bennett, of Tobago, for the best specimen of West India cotton 1780 The finest grained and cleanest cotton brought to the English market waa from Berbice. The prices were per lb.: Berbice, 2s. Id.; Demerara, Is. Id.; Surinam, 2s.; Cayenne. 2s. 1781 Brazilian cotton first imported into England from Maranham in a very dirty state. 1782 A panic created in Manchester, England, in consequence of 7012 bales of cotton being imported between December and April. 1783 Brazilian cotton first brought to Manchester. 1785 Premium offered by the Royal Society of Arts of England for the production of oil from cotton seed, and from the re- mainder of the seed hard cake for cattle. 1785 A small quantity of seed sent from the Bahamas is the parent of all the Sea Island cotton of Georgia and South Carolina. 1785 Cotton imported into England from America this year: 1 bag per Diana, from Charleston; 1 'per Tonyn, from New York; 3 per Grange, from Philadelphia; 9 per Friendship, from Philadelphia. Part of these cottons were seized in Liver- pool by the Custom House otficers, under the impression that cotton was not the product of the United States. 1786 6 bags of American cotton imported into England: 2 per Thomas, from Charleston, and 4 per Juno, from Charleston. 1786 A small quantity of cotton of the best quality then known was received in England from the Island of Bourbon, and was sold at from 7s. 6d. to 10s. per lb. 1787 103 bales of cotton imported into England from America. Until this year the supply of cotton was principally from the West Indies. 1793 Whitney's Saw-gin invented for cleaning cotton. 1798 Premium of a gold medal offered by the Eoyal Society of Arts of England to any person who should import into the port of London during the year 1799 one ton of Bhangul- pore cotton, of which cloths were made in imitation of nankeen without dyeing. 1823 Long-stapled cotton of excellent quality first imported into England from Egypt. 1833 Duty on cotton, the' product of, and imported from, any Brit- ish possession, 4d. per cwt., and of any foreign countrv, 2s lid. 1844 February 3d, this week 109,000 bales of cotton were sold in Liverpool, England. 1845 British duty on cotton wool repealed, 22d March. COTTON TAEN. 1530 Spinning wheel invented at Brunswick, Germany, by Jurgeu. 1641 Cotton yarn imported into England from the Levant. 1650 Indian yarn was spun as fine as 29 yards to 1 grain. 1688 1,450,000 lbs. of yarn imported into France from the Levant. 1738 Machine for spinning with rollers invented in England by John Whyatt, patent taken out by Lewis Paul, a foreigner. 205 1748 Lewis Paul's second patent taken out in England. 1750 3,381,625 lbs. of yarn imported into France from the Levant. 1753 A cotton reel invented in England by Mr. Earnsliaw. 1757 Duty of id. per lb. on cotton yarn imported into England from India. 1760 Premium offered by the Royal Society of Arts of England for the best invention of a machine for spinning 6 threads of wool, cotton, flax or silk at one time, and that would only require one person to work and attend it. 1763 First spinning jenny made in England by Highs. 1764 Hargreavea invented a machine in England to spin 11 threads at once. 1767 Spinning by machinery first used in England (the water frame ^ 1769 Water frame for spinning patented in England by Arkwright. 1770 Spinning jenny patented in England by J. Hargreaves. 1770 Lewis Paul takes out a patent in England for carding. 1771 Messrs. Arkwright's mill built at Cromford, England. 1772 The feeder invented in England by J. Lees. 1773 J. Hargreaves, England, applied a crank, or comb, to take wool off the cards in a continuous fleece. 1775 Mule spinning invented in England by S. Crompton. 1776 Mr. Arkwright took out another patent in England for card- ing, drawing and roving. 1776 First cotton mill erected in Staleybridge, England. 1777 First " " Preston, England. 1783 Premium given by the Koyal Society of Arts of England for improving several machines used in manufacturing, viz.: comb pots, cards for wool and cotton, doubling and spin- ning wheels, etc. 1783 Arkwright's machinery for spinning and carding cotton by steam first used in Manchester, England. 1784 First machine imported into France ^from England) for spin- ning cotton by M. Mortin, Amiens. 1784 Machinery for spinning thrown open to the trade in England. 1784 A German fined £500 in England for seducing operatives to Germany. 1784 Improved method of carding in England by Arkwright. 1786 A person fined £200 in England for having a quantity of ma- chinery, with a view to export it to Germany. 1787 Forty-one spinning factories in the county Of Lancaster, England. 1788 Model of a machine for spinning cotton, etc., presented to the Royal Society of Arts of England by Mr. John Barton. 1788 A gold medal, value £20, was awarded by the Royal Society of Arts of England for the invention of a machine for carding waste silk, cotton, etc. 1789 A mule jenny constructed at Amiens, France, with 280 spindles. 1791 First cotton mill erected in the United States. 1792 A self-acting mule invented by Mr. Kelly, of Lanark Mills, England. 1793 First attempt to spin yarn from lOO's and upwards by power in England. 1799 First spinning mule erected in Saxony, Germany. 1802 Subscription of £500 raised in England for Mr." S. Crompton by Mr John Kennedy and others. 1805 Premium given by the Royal Society of Arts of England to Mr. John Beard for a machine for cutting and crooking wires for cards used in cotton and wool. 1806 Cotton manufacturing considered completely established in France. 1812 Number of spindles at work in Great Britain between 4,000,000 and 5,000,000. 1812 Mr. S. Crompton, inventor of the mule, rewarded by the English Government with £5,000. 1812 English Parliament granted Mr. Wright £5,000 for the inven- tion of his double mule. 1815 8 lb. of cotton twist sent out to India on trial. 1816 Yarn trade opened with the continent. 206 1817 Fly frame introduced from America, patented by Mr. J. C. Dyer in 1825 to 1829. 1821 First notable exportation of cotton twist from England to India. 1825 104 factories in the neighborhood of Manchester, England. 1825 40 '• " Preston, 1825 47 " " Stockport, 1825 22 " " Staley bridge, 1825 Mr. Dyer's first patent for cards in England. 1825 Mr. Roberts takes out a patent for a machine for mule spin- ning in England, 1825 Tube frame patented in England by Mr. J. C. Dyer. 1827 De Jough's self-acting mu]e invented. 1829 Average price of yarn sent from England to India, ls.3?id. 1832 Capital supposed sunk in cotton mills in England, £10,600,000 1834 Average price of yarn sent from England to India, Is. 5Xd. 1836 113 cotton spinning mills in Saxony, Germany. 1837 152 cotton spinning mills in Prussia, Germany. COTTON GOODS. 1252 Cotton goods made in Persia. 1253 Linen first made in England by Flemish weavers. 1328 A quantity of Flemish emigrants came to England, a few set- tled in Manchester, and made a species of woolen goods called "Manchester cottons." 1330 Manufactures of Flanders introduced into Manchester, England. 1352 Manchester cottons made in England from the fleece in an unprepared state. (These were woolens.) 1368 Cotton manufactured in China. 1390 Cloth first made at Kendal, England (woolen). 1430 Fustians first made in Flanders with a linen warp and cotton weft. 1497 First manufacture of cotton goods in Europe was attempted in Spain or Italy. 1516 The Caffres in Southern Africa wore cotton dresses. 1582 An English mercantile commission sent to Constantinople and other parts of Turkey to learn any secrets in the arts of manufacturing, dyeing, &c. 1590 Cotton cloth brought to London from Benin, on the coast of Guinea. . 1634 Linen trade began in Ireland. 1641 At this period in England all warps were made with linen, and wove with cotton imported from Cyprus and Smyrna. 1790 Messrs. Grimshaw, of Gorton, England, erected a factory in Manchester for power looms, under a license from Dr.. Cartwright, but the factory was burned down before they commenced work. 1794 A power loom invented by Mr. Bell, of Glasgow, Scotland, but it did not succeed. 1796 Another power loom j)atented by Mr. Robert Miller, of Glas- gow, Scotland. 1801 First application of Dr. Cartwright's power loom. 1801 Power loom adopted in Glasgow, Scotland, by Mr. John Monteith. 1802 A dressing machine invented by Messrs. EatcUffe and Ross, of Stockport, England. 1803 A patent for a power loom taken out by Mr. Horrocks, of Stockport, England. 1806 A patent for a power loom with a double crank taken out by Mr. P. Marsland, of Stockport, England. 1806 Power looms began to be used to advantage in England. 1806 Machine for dressing warps invented in England by Mr. Johnson. 1809 British Parliament granted Dr. Cartwright £10,000 for his invention of the power loom in 1787. 1817 Persons employed in the cotton trade of Great Britain esti- mated by Mr! Kennedy at 110,763. 1825 Roberts' British patent for mule spinning. 1825 Persons employed in the cotton trade in Great Britain esti- mated by Mr.' Greg at 160,000. 1825 22,150 cotton looms in Prussia. 207 1832 The quantity of flour used in the manufacturing of cotton goods in Great Eritain this year was 215,824 barrels of 196 lbs., or 176,256 loads of 240 lbs. each; average of each loom being 4 lbs per week. 1841 Number of persons emi^loyed in cotton manufactures in Eng- land 281,000. 1846 Niimber of persons employed in cotton manufactures in Eng- land 316,000. 1641 Fustians and dimities first introduced into England. 1645 Fustians imported into England from the continent of Europe at a duty of 3d. per piece. 1650 Very fine calicoes and muslins made in India, at Calicut, which wei-e whitened with lemon water. 1670 Muslins first worn in England. 1676 Introduction of the Dutch loom engine in England. 1677 Value of East India calicoes consumed in England £160,000. 1698 First steam engine constructed in England and successfully turned to useful purposes by Savery. 1701 Value of cotton goods exported from England £23,000. 1738 Fly shuttle invented in England by J. Kay. 1739 The manufacture of cotton goods in England, mixed and plain, was supposed to have arrived at great perfection. 1756 Cotton velvets first made in England. 1760 Value of cotton manufactures in Great Britain, £200,000 per annum. 1760 Warping mill invented in England. 1760 Drop shuttle box invented in England by R. Kay. 1760 Previous to this year the machines used in cotton manufac- ture were nearly as simple in England as in India. 1763 Muslins and cotton quiltings first made in England. 1765 Calicoes (so called from their resemblance to Indian manu- factures brought from the province of Calicut) first at- tempted in England. 1765 Cotton velvets first made in Amiens, France. 1766 British duty on foreign cambrics and lawns per piece of three ells, 3s. (Ell= 45 inches.) 1766 Value of cotton goods made in England, £600.000 per annum. 1770 Manufacture of ginghams greatly improved in England by Mr. Meadowcroft. 1772 Messrs. Arkwright & Co. successfully attempted the manu- facture of calicoes in England. 1772 First English cotton goods made with cotton warps by Messrs. Strutt, of Derby. 1774 Fabrics made entirely of cotton were declared by Act of British Parliament to have been lately introduced. 1776 Two pieces of calicoes sold in England to Messrs. Peel, Yates & Co. for £5, 9s. 8d. 1780 Muslin trade began to flourish in England. 1783 Act reducing the duty on foreign muslins, calicoes and nan- keen cloths to 18 per cent, ad valorem, with 10 per cent, drawback on exportation, passed by British Parliament, 1784 Fustian tax imposed in England. 1785 First attempt at the power loom in England by Dr. Cartwright. 1785 Population employed in the cotton trade of England estimated by Mr. Pitt at 80,000. 1785 First steam engine for cotton mills in England made by Watt. 1785 Eepeal of the fustian tax, celebrated in Manchester, England, by a grand procession. 1787 Power loom invented in England by Dr. Cartwright. 1787 An immense ciuautity of muslins and calicoes imported into England from India. Memorial to British Board of Trade, praying that restrictions might be placed on the East India Comijany's sales, answered, that " the greater part of them had been exported." PRINTING AND DYEING CALICO. 1631 Painted (printed) calicoes imported into England from India. 1675 Calico printing first inti'oduced into England. 1676 Calico printing commenced in London, in England. 1678 A loud cry raised against the admission of Indian calicoes, muslins and chintzes into England, as it was stated they were ruining the British woolen trade. 208 1690 A small priut works established on the Thames, at Richmond, England. 1700 Act passed forbidding the importation into England of Indian silks and printed calicoes, under a penalty of £200 on buj-er and seller. 1712 Duty of 3d. per yard first imposed on printed and dyed cali- coes in England. (These were of foreign manufacture.) 1714 Duty on printed calicoes raised in Eugland to 6d. per yard. 1720 Act prohibiting the use or wear of printed calicoes in Eug- land, whether printed in England or elsewhere, under a penalty of £5 wearer, and £20 seller. 1736 So much of the act of 1720 repealed in England as forbade the wear or use of mixed printed g09ds, that is, goods not all cotton. 17^3 Bleaching generally introduced in England. 1764 Calico printing first practiced in Lancashire, England. 1765 English printed calicoes exported to Holland. 1774 Duty of 3d. per square yard imposed in England on printed cottons of British manufacture. 1774 Penalties for exporting tools or utensils used in manufactur- ing from England, of £200 on shipper, and £200 on com- mander of any vessel. 1774 Chlorine, or oxymuriatic acid, discovered by Scheele. 1777 Green dyes for calicoes introduced into England by Dr. R. "Williams. 1782 Act prohibiting the exportation of engraved copper plates and blocks, or enticing any workmen emploj'ed in printing calicoes in England to go beyond the sea, £500, and twelve months imprisonment. 1783 Act giving bounties on the export of British printed and dyed cottons, viz.: Under the value of 5d. per yard before printing, >^d. per yard. Over the value of 5d. and under 6d. before printing. Id. t)er yard. Over the value of 6d. and under 8d. before printing, 13^d. per yard, besides the drawack of excise duty. This act was repealed shortly afterwards. 1784 Bleachers, printers and dyers compelled to take out licenses in England under an annual tax of £2, by Mr. Pitt. 1784 A tax of Id. per yard imposed in England upon all bleached cottons. (Repealed May 17th, 1785.) 1785 Cylindrical printing invented in England by Mr. Bell, and greatly improved by Mr. Lockett, of Manchester. 1785 Acid for bleaching introduced by Bartholet, of France, 1786 Bleaching with acid introduced in the bleach works of Mr. McGregor, near Glasgow, Scotland, by James Watt. 1787 First copyright for printers in Eugland. 1787 Excise duty of 3}.^d. per square yard on printed calicoes im- posed in Great Britain, and the same allowed as drawback on exportation, and foreign calicoes charged with a duty of 7d, per yard when printed or dyed in Great Britain. (May 10th.) 1788 Acid first used for bleaching in Manchester, England. 1791 Improved method of bleaching cotton goods in England with acids in five hours, 1798 Chloride of lime for bleaching patented by Mr. Tennant, of Glasgow, Scotland. 1801 Discharge work in printing successfully adapted in England by Messrs. Peel. 1802 New method of block cutting, introducing brass and pin work , in Eugland. 1805 Engraved wooden rollers used, invented in England by Mr. Barton, engraver to Messrs. Peel. 1808 New method of engraving with dies introduced in England by Mr. Lockett. 1810 Turkey red first introduced in calico printing in England by M Koechlin. 1813 Discharging Turkey red with acid in calico printing in Eng- land, patented by James Thompson, Esq., F. R. S. 1831 Duty on printed calicoes repealed by Great Britain March 1st.