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 Copy 3 
 
NELSONS' GUIDE 
 
 LAKE GEOEGE 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIN, 
 
 WITH OIL-COLOUR VIEWS DRAWN FROM PHOTOGRAPHS 
 TAKEN EXPRESSLY FOR THIS WORK. 
 
 " Bright scenes of mountain and of lake. 
 With rugged glens, where torrents break 
 
 In floods of silver white ; 
 Mid cliffs, and crags, and fliniy peaks. 
 Green woods, and isles, and flowing creeks- 
 
 In checkered shade and light.' 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 T NELSON AND SONS, PATERNOSTER ROW; 
 
 EDINBURGH : AND NEW YORK. 
 
IND 
 
 EX. << 
 
 Page 
 
 Albnrg Springs, 47 
 
 Ash Island, 47 
 
 Au Sable River, 38 
 
 Au Sable Chasm and Falls, 38 
 
 Basin Harbour, , 33 
 
 Benson, 31 
 
 Black Mountain, 15, 16 
 
 Bloody Pond, 5 
 
 Bolton, 7, 9, 15 
 
 Bui'lington, 35 
 
 Caldwell, 6, 7 
 
 Camel's Hump, 31, 37 
 
 Chazy Landing, 45 
 
 Chimney Point, 33 
 
 CroAvn Point, 31 
 
 Cumberland Head, 45 
 
 Diamond Island, H 
 
 Dome Island, 15 
 
 Essex, 34 
 
 Fort William Henry Hotel, 6 
 
 Fort William Henry, Ruins of; 7 
 Fort William Henry Massacre, 10 
 Fort George, Ruins of, ... 7 
 
 Fort Ticonderoga, 20 
 
 FortCassin 33 
 
 Four Brothers, 35 
 
 Fourteen Mile Island, 16 
 
 Gai-field 7 
 
 Glen's Falls, 4 
 
 Highgate Springs, 47 
 
 Howe's Landing, ?0 
 
 Isle La Motte, 45 
 
 Isle aux Noix ; 47 
 
 Juniper Island, 35 
 
 Keeseville, 38 
 
 LaColle, 47 
 
 Lake Champlain 25 
 
 Lake House, 7 
 
 Lake George, 8 
 
 
 Lake George, Headwaters of. 
 Lake George, Islands of, 
 Lake George, the Narrows 
 
 Long Island, 
 
 Mansfield Mountain, ., 
 Minne-ha-ha Steamer, 
 
 Missisquoi Bay, 
 
 Mohican House, 
 
 Moimt Defiance, 
 
 Mount Independence, .. 
 
 North-West Bay, 
 
 Orwell 
 
 Plattsburg, 
 
 Plattsburg, Battle of; .. 
 
 Port Henry, 
 
 Port Kent, 
 
 Port Jackson, 
 
 Pottier's Point, 
 
 Prisoners' Island, 
 
 Rock Dundee, 
 
 Rogers' Slide, 
 
 Rouse's Point, 
 
 Sabbath-day Point, 
 Saratoga Springs, 
 
 Saranac River, 
 
 Shelving Rock, 
 
 South Hero, 
 
 Split Rock, 
 
 St. Anthony's Nose, 
 Ticonderoga Fort, 
 Ticonderoga Falls, 
 Tongue Mountain, 
 
 Toole's Inn, , 
 
 Trembleu Point, 
 
 Valcour Island, 
 
 Westport, 
 
 Whitehall 
 
 Winooski, 
 
LAKE GEORGE AND LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 [The Steel Eiigrsviiigs wiib which this work is embellished were executed from 
 Photographs taken expressly for it by Mr. Holmes, of Broadway, New York, 
 who was commissioned by the publishers to visit the scenes represented.] 
 
 It has been remarked that, in America, Lake George 
 holds the place of Loch Katrine in Scotland— that it is 
 the Trosachs on a larger scale. There is much tmth in 
 this. The scenery of this charming district is indeed 
 most beautiful; — mingling the soft and gentle with the 
 bold, magnificent, and picturesque. Historical associa- 
 tion also lends additional interest to Lakes George and 
 Champlain. In days long gone by, these wild solitudes 
 were frequently disturbed by the savage wars of the 
 Indian tribes who then possessed the land ; and in later 
 years, the peace of these beautiful lakes was broken by 
 the loud artillery of modern warfare. Civilized soldiers 
 and savages have fought side by side upon their shores, 
 while fleets have contended on their waters. Indians, 
 Americans, French, and British, have each played their 
 part in the thrilling dramas and tragedies that have been 
 enacted on and around these romantic waters. 
 
 Besides being in themselves extremely grand and 
 
4 qlen's falls. 
 
 b(!autiful, the lakes are easy of access ; being situated 
 near the head waters of the celebrated Hudson River, 
 and on the route between New York and Canada. 
 
 We will take it for granted that the traveller has reached 
 Saratoga Springs^ that celebrated resort of lovers of 
 mineral waters, fresh air, and amusement. We will 
 suppose that he has visited the springs, tasted the 
 health-giving waters, wondered at the extraordinary 
 powers of the invalids, who rise early in order to drink, 
 and sit up late in order to dance, and we will conclude 
 that he is now desirous of visiting the two romantic 
 lakes which form the subject of this little volume. 
 
 Let us proceed, then, by rail and plankroad, to Cald- 
 well, at the head of lake George. The distance is twenty- 
 eight miles, — fifteen miles from Saratoga to Moreau 
 Station, by the Troy and Whitehall line, and thirteen 
 from thence to Caldwell. On the way we pass two spots 
 of great interest and beauty, — Glen's Falls, nine miles, 
 and the Bloody Pond, four miles from the lake. These 
 spots ought to be visited from Caldwell, and should have 
 a day devoted to them. We have only time to glance at 
 them in passing onward to the lakes, but we will pause 
 to describe them particularly here. 
 
 GLEN'S FALLS 
 
 are situated in the upper Hudson River, about nine 
 miles distant from Lake George. The total descent is 
 
BLOODY POND. 6 
 
 72 feet, and the width of the river at the top of the fall 
 is about 900 feet. The water descends in a succession 
 of leaps over rugged rocks, amid which it boHs and foams, 
 spirts and thunders, in magnificent style, especially 
 when the river is in full-flood-, as it finds its way through 
 the wild ravine, and emerges into the quiet lands 
 below. 
 
 It was here that Cooper laid. some of the scenes in his 
 well-known tale, " The Last of the Mohicans." Here 
 the brave yet gentle Uncas, the stalwart Hawk-eye, 
 and the other dramatis per sonce of that exquisite novel, 
 enacted some of their finest parts ; and the caves below 
 the bridge are associated with these stirring incidents of 
 savage warfare. The traveller must be prepared, how- 
 ever, to throw himself rather violently into these 
 memories of the past, aud to indulge romantic associa- 
 tions under difficulties ; for modern civilization, and pro- 
 gress, and peace, have planted on the stream mills of 
 stern utility, and manufactories of sentiment-expelhng 
 common-placeness, which are apt to damp the spirits of 
 all, save the most ardent enthusiasts. Clank, whirl, and 
 spin, have taken the place of the rifle-crack, the stealthy 
 tread, and the war-whoop of the savage ! Shortly after 
 leaving Glen's Falls, the road passes near the 
 
 BLOODY POND. 
 
 Here, in 1755, Colonel Williams was killed in an en- 
 gagement with the French and their Indian allies, under 
 
b CALDWELL. 
 
 General Dieskau. An old boulder in the neighbourhood 
 is still known as Williams' Rock. The slain, on both 
 sides of this sanguinary fight, were thrown into the pond, 
 which derives its name from this circumstance. 
 
 A little farther on, we obtain our first view of Horicon, 
 and a surpasshigly beautiful view it is. Descending 
 the hills towards the lake, we soon arrive at the vil- 
 lage of 
 
 CALDWELL. 
 
 The view in our engraving is taken from Fort William 
 Henry Hotel, which stands near to the ruins of the Old 
 
 FOKT WILLIAM IIKNKV IIOTRI- 
 
 Fort. Here we will take up our abode, as the views 
 from this new and elegant building are most exquisite, 
 
CALDWELL. 7 
 
 aad the entertainment is admirable. The Lake House 
 is also a first rate establishment, commanding a very fine 
 view of the lake, with its beautiful islands and the hills 
 beyond. 
 
 We may remark here that Toole's Inn, a few miles 
 along the eastern shore, is conveniently situated for 
 fishing quarters, and is more secluded than those at 
 Caldwell. Bolton and Garfield may also be mentioned 
 as good spots for a pleasant sojourn. The former is a 
 particularly charming spot. Here, in the Mohican 
 House f we may enjoy the comforts of a well-appointed 
 hotel, while outside, all that is beautiful and attractive 
 in nature awaits us. We strongly recommend a halt at 
 this place. 
 
 The village of Caldwell is beautifully situated at the 
 southern end, or head, of Lake George. It contains two 
 churches, a court-house, a jail, and a number of elegant 
 private residences. There are above two hundred inha- 
 bitants, and, during the summer months, it is crowded 
 with visitors in search of health, or pleasure, or both. 
 It is delightfully and conveniently situated for being our 
 head quarters while engaged in exploring the beauties 
 ofthe lake. 
 
 The Ruins of Fort William Henry, which was built 
 by the Enghsh in 1755, are close to the hotel of the same 
 name. A short distance from the village, and about a 
 mile to the south-east of this, are the Ruins of Fort 
 George. A steamboat plies regularly between this 
 
y LAKE GEORQE. 
 
 village and the landing near Ticonderoga^ at the 
 other end of the lake, the distance being 36 miles. The 
 trip there and back can be accomplished in a day, but 
 we would strongly recommend a more leisurely survey of 
 this Queen of Waters. In the summer of 1856, the 
 steamer John Jay was destroyed by fire near Sabbath- 
 day Point. It has been replaced by the present hand- 
 some vessel, the boiler and furnace of which have been 
 placed in a fire-proof iron case. Her name, Minne-ha-ha, 
 which signifies laughing water, is taken from Longfel- 
 low's poem, HiawatM. 
 
 LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 It may, perhaps, be advisable, before launcliing our- 
 selves upon the placid and beautiful waters of this lake, 
 to make a few brief statistical observations in regard to 
 it. Lake George, then, is situated close to the eastern 
 border of the State of New York, and its waters dis- 
 charge in a northerly direction, into Lake Champlain. 
 It is 36 miles long, lying north and south, and from 2 to 
 3 miles wide. It is 243 feet above the tide-waters of the 
 Hudson River. The water of the lake is remarkably 
 pellucid, and the basin in which it rests is covered with 
 a yellow sand, so that the bottom is visible at a depth 
 of seven fathoms. The surface of the lake is every- 
 where dotted with the most romantic-looking islands, 
 and its shores are encompassed by picturesque hills, 
 clothed with rich vegetation, and, many of them, rising 
 
THE HEAD WATERS OP LAKE GEORGE. 9 
 
 to a height that entitles them to rank as mountains. 
 The islands are said to equal in number the days 
 in the year. Many are large and fertile, others are 
 mere barren rocks. 
 
 There are thousands of fish in the lake. Salmon-trout, 
 silver-trout, brook trout, perch, pike, &c., are abundant, 
 and of the finest quality. 
 
 Fish may be caught in all parts of Horicon, but the 
 best fishing grounds are at the head of the lake, near 
 Bolton Landing and Shelving Rock. 
 
 The Indian name of this lake is Horicon, or the sil- 
 very waters, and we cannot help expressing regret that 
 this euphonious appellation has not been exclusively re- 
 tained. The natives also called it Caniderioit, or, the 
 tail of the lake, in reference to its position near the 
 southern termination of Lake Champlain, It was named 
 by the French Lac Sacrament, on account of the purity 
 of its waters. 
 
 This singular transparency of the water is the more 
 remarkable that the waters on eveiy side, — those of 
 Lake Champlain, of the Hudson, and of the whole 
 region between the Green Mountains and the Mississippi, 
 —are more or less impregnated with lime. 
 
 THE HEAD WATERS OF LAKE GEORGE, 
 
 From the grounds of Fort William Henry Hotel. 
 This view is exceedingly fine and animated, — the 
 islands in the distance resting, if the weather be calm, 
 
10 THE MASSACRE. 
 
 on their own reflected images, and beyond these, the 
 graceful outline of the hills cutting against the clear sky. 
 The grounds of the hotel and the wharf in front are 
 usually crowded with gaily dressed visitors, especially 
 when the bright-looking steamer darts from the shore 
 on its trip down the lake. Tliis steamer is a gi-aceful 
 little boat, elegantly fitted up, and, in the beauty of its 
 appearance, very much in keeping with the lovely lake 
 over which it darts with arrow-speed. She is 145 feet 
 long, by 26 feet wide. During the summer season her 
 decks are crowded with gay tourists, whose joyful voices, 
 ringing over the lake, make the name of "laughing 
 water" seem very appropriate. As the steamer rushes 
 away, the flag that floats from the stern waves adieu to 
 the stripes and stars that flutter from the flag-stafl" in 
 front of the hotel. 
 
 It is a gay, brilliant scene, and little fitted to call to 
 remembrance the dark deeds that have been enacted 
 here in former days. Nevertheless, we must beg the 
 reader to turn aside while we relate one, perhaps the 
 blackest of these. 
 
 THE MASSACRE 
 
 at Fort William Henry, 1757, is one of the most ter- 
 rible episodes in the wars between the English and 
 French :— 
 
 " A British and provincial army having been collected at 
 Port Edward and Fort William Henry, under General Webb, 
 
THE. MASS ACHE. 11 
 
 for the reduction of tlie French works on Lake Champlain, 
 the French sent a large army up the lake, under General 
 Montcalm, for their defence. General Webb, then at Fort 
 William Herry, learning from Major Putnam that this force 
 had entered Lake George, returned immediately to Fort 
 Edward ; and the day following sent Colonel Monroe with 
 his regiment to re-enforce the garrison at the lake. The day 
 after Monroe's arrival, the French appeared at the furt, laid 
 siege to it, and demanded its surrender. The garrison, con- 
 sisting of 2500 men, defended themselves with much bravery 
 for several days, expecting succour from Fort Edward ; but 
 as none came, Monroe was obliged, on the 9th of August, to 
 capitulate. By the articles of the capitulation, all the public 
 property was to be delivered to Montcalm, and the garrison 
 were to march out with their arms and baggage, and to be 
 escorted to Fort Edward, on condition of not serving against 
 the French within the period of eighteen months. 
 
 " The garrison had no sooner marched out of the fort, than 
 a scene of perfidy and barbarity commenced, which it is im- 
 possible for language to describe. Regardless of the articles 
 of capitulation, the Indians attached to the French army fell 
 upon the defenceless soldiers, plundering and murdering all 
 that fell in their way. The French officers were idle specta- 
 tors of this bloody scene; nor could all the entreaties of 
 Monroe persuade them to furnish the promised escort. On 
 that fatal day about 1500 of the English were either mur- 
 dered by the savages, or carried by them into captivity, 
 never to return. 
 
 " The day following these horrid transactions. Major Put- 
 nam was despatched from Fort Edward with his rangers, to 
 watch the motions of the enemy. He reached Lake George 
 just after the rear of the enemy had left the shore; and the 
 scene which was presented he describes as awful indeed. 
 * The fort was entirely destroyed ; the barracks, out-houses, 
 and buildings, were a heap of ruins; the cannon, stores, 
 boats, and vessels, were all carried away. The fires were 
 
12 ISLANDS OP LAKE aEORQE. 
 
 still burning — tlie smoke and stench offensive and suffocating. 
 Innumerable fragments of human skulls and bones, and car- 
 casses half consumed, were still fi-ying and broiling in the 
 decaying fires. Dead bodies, mangled Vith scalping-knives 
 and tomahawks in all the wantonness of Indian barbarity, 
 were everywhere to be seen. More than a hundred women, 
 butchered and shockingly mangled, lay upon the ground, still 
 weltering in their gore. Devastation, barbarity, and horror, 
 everywhere appeared ; and the spectacle presented was too 
 diabolical and awful either to be endured or described. ' " 
 
 IIow peaceful the scene now ! and how difficult to be- 
 lieve that a spot so lovely — so eminently fitted to soften 
 tlie heart and fill it with gi-atitude to the almighty 
 Creator— should have been the theatre of deeds of ruth- 
 less barbarity wliich the arch-fiend himself might strive 
 in vain to out-do ! 
 
 We turn gladly from this dark picture to the contem 
 plation of the now peaceful and beautiful 
 
 ISLANDS OF LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 Our view is taken from the west side of the lalce. 
 
 As we have before remarked, these are very numerous 
 as well as varied in size and form. Some are of consi- 
 derable extent, level and cultivated ; others rise in rug- 
 ged clifis from the water, their summits crowned with 
 tufts of vegetation, and their crevices filled with ding- 
 ing shrubs and stunted trees : some are bare rocks, on 
 which the water-fowl make their nests ; and many are 
 
ISLANDS OF LAKE GEORGE. 13 
 
 mere points, rising but a few feet above the water: but 
 all are beautiful and interesting to those who have the 
 good fortune to traverse their labyrinths. 
 
 There are plenty of skiffs and boats on the lake, in 
 which we may row and dream upon the placid waters 
 and among the sweet islets of Horicon, until we have 
 forgotten the present, and are revelling in the romantic 
 memories of the past, — when these crystal ripples were 
 cut only by the light bark-canoe of the red man, as he 
 glided noiselessly through the vast solitudes in search of 
 game, perchance of enemies. The pictures that are 
 seen, in a retrospective glance, are generally strongly 
 defined in powerful light and shade. The sunbeams of 
 romantic association and adventure may be broad and 
 vivid ; but the shadows of evil deeds and savage warfare 
 are terribly dark and sombre. The woodman's axe now 
 awakens the echoes which were wont to answer to the 
 ring of the pioneer's rifle and the yell of his Indian foe ; 
 while the canoe has given place to the more con- 
 venient boat and the rapid steamer. Yet we may get 
 out of the way of civilized sights and sounds, and find 
 spots here where the descendant of the first owners of 
 the soil might wander and dream until he should fancy 
 the time of his forefathers had returned, and that he 
 was still alone in the vast wilderness. 
 
 But however pleasant dreaming may be, we are con- 
 strained to interrupt it. The steamer is rapidly sweep- 
 ing us through the midst of the most fairy-like scenes. 
 
14 ISLANDS OP LAKE GEORGE. 
 
 and opening up to our view prospects of ever-changing 
 grandeur and beauty, which claim our undivided atten- 
 tion. 
 
 " With every changing hour," writes Addison Rich- 
 ards—" dawn, sunset, and night— with the varying 
 weather — ^from the calm of drowsy morning to the eve 
 of gathering storm— these islands are found in ever- 
 changing phases. As they sleep for a moment in the 
 deep quiet of a passing cloud-shadow, you sigh for rest 
 in their cooling bowers. Anon the sun breaks over 
 them, and you are still as eager to mingle in their now 
 wild and lawless revelry. You may shake up the lake 
 like a kaleidoscope, seeing with every varying change a 
 new picture, by simply varying your relative position to 
 these islands. Now you have a fore-ground of pebbly 
 beach, or, perchance, of jagged rock or of forest debris^ 
 with the spreading water and the distance-tinted hills, 
 to fill up the canvass ; or, peeping beneath the pendent 
 boughs of the beech and maple, an Arcadian bower dis- 
 closes vistas of radiant beauty." 
 
 Description attempts in vain to convey an accurate 
 idea of beautiful scenery. We quote the opinion of 
 others, in order to tempt the traveller to visit this lovely 
 spot— to go and see that which is so well worthy of being 
 seen, but cannot be adequately described. 
 
 The first island of interest that we pass, after leaving 
 Caldwell, is Diamond Island, near Dunham Bay. It 
 was a dep6t of military stores for Burgoyne's army in 
 
ISLANDS OP LAKE GEORGE. 15 
 
 1777, and the scene of a sharp skirmish between the gar- 
 rison and a body of Americans. 
 
 Long Island is close to Harris Bay, in which Mont- 
 calm moored his bateaux in 1757. 
 
 On Dome Island^ twelve miles from Caldwell, Put- 
 nam's men took shelter while he went to acquaint 
 General Webb with the enemy's movements. 
 
 Northwest Bay, just beyond Bolton, is an exceed- 
 ingly beautiful part of the lake. 
 
 Bolton itself is nothing, a mere " huddle" of huts, as 
 its inhabitants appropriately term it. Its inn is every- 
 thing, and that is everything to us ! The vicinity of 
 Bolton is the favourite resort of the hunter and the pis- 
 cator. The trout and bass taken here are frequently of 
 enormous size. From the Pinnacle and other elevations 
 in the neighbourhood, splendid views of the surrounding 
 country and of Lake Champlain may be obtained, by 
 those who love to tread the mountain-tops at break of 
 day. This is one of the broadest parts of the lake, and 
 the islands are numerous. 
 
 Tongue Mountain protrudes itself into the water 
 here, cutting off North-west Bay from the main pas- 
 sage ; and hard by, on the eastern shore, is 
 
 Shelving Roclc, a bold semicircle of pallisades, famed 
 for its dens of rattlesnakes and its good fishing. 
 
 Black ^fountain rises immediately behind Shelving 
 Rock. It is a bold, prominent, and ever-visible object 
 in the scenery of the lake, 2200 feet high. 
 
18 THE NARROWS. 
 
 Fouiieen-Mile Island, in front of Shelving Rock, is 
 the favourite temporary residence of those who chase the 
 deer among the crags of Tongue Mountain. 
 
 But let us prepare for a change in the scene, for our 
 little vessel is now approaching 
 
 THE NARROWS. 
 
 The View of the Narroics given in our Engraving is 
 taken from the south. 
 
 The hills extend into the lake at this poiot, and con- 
 tract it very considerably, while the height of the moun- 
 tains renders the contraction more impressive and appa- 
 rent. The Black Mountain rears his bulky form here to 
 a height of above 2200 feet, and around are the boldest 
 and most picturesque parts of the shores of Lake George. 
 The water here is 400 feet deep, and wonderfully pel- 
 lucid, permitting the eye to penetrate far down into its 
 mysterious depths. 
 
 The passage of the Narrows is a most interesting part 
 of our voyage. There are few scenes more enchanting or 
 more romantic than the intricacies of an island-studded 
 lake. In passing through such scenery every faculty of 
 the mind is roused to an unusual state of activity. Like 
 the moving pictures of a panorama, scene follows scene 
 with a rapidity that gratifies and excites the mind, fill- 
 ing the eye with ever-changing visions of beauty, and 
 raising expectation to its utmost pitch, as each point or 
 headland is passed, and the prospect is slowly unveiled. 
 
THE NARROWS. 1? 
 
 Scenery of this fcmd, even although the land be unpic- 
 turesque or barren, is always interesting from its novelty 
 and variety ; but when, like the Narrows of Lake George, 
 all around is gi'and, verdant, and lovely, the scene be- 
 comes one which it is beyond the power of language 
 to describe. 
 
 " Between some of its beautiful islands, and between 
 those islands and the shore, the lake assumes the char- 
 acter of quiet river scenery. From the undisturbed 
 state of the luxuriant vegetation at the water's edge, 
 however, and the absence of the debris that is usually 
 left by the freshets to which running streams are liable, 
 the scenery is lovelier than that of most rivers, and 
 differs from them as the shores of the tideless Mediter- 
 ranean do from those of the distm-bed Atlantic. At one 
 point, in passing one of the NarroAvs, a broad expanse of 
 lake opens up to view ; a distant island is seen resting on 
 its soft reflection in the calm water ; beyond that is a 
 neck of the mainland, darkened by the shadow of a 
 neighbouring hill; and, in the extreme distance, a mas- 
 sive mountain, raising its bold top into the clouds, and 
 rendered soft, blue, and indistinct, by the intervening 
 atmosphere ; while several islets, clothed with rich ver- 
 dure, shroud the foreground of the picture in deep, 
 effective shadow. At other spots the prospect widens, 
 revealing a sweep of the lake, studded with islands of 
 various shape and size, whose verdure is tipped and 
 streaked with trickling gleams of light." 
 
18 SABBATH-DAY POINT— ROGERS' SLIDE. 
 
 Several miles beyond the Narrows we approach 
 SABBATH-DAY POINT. 
 
 Here historical associations and natural beauties crowd 
 upon us in profusion. Towards the south the view of 
 the Narrows is extremely fine ; while to the north we 
 have the broad bay ; the landing and hotel at Garfield's ; 
 Rorjeri Slide, and the precipice of St. Anthony's Nose 
 reiiected in the clear water. 
 
 In the year 1758 General Abercrombie landed on this 
 fertile point, to rest and refresh his army of 16,000 men, 
 while on his way to attack the French at Ticonderoga. 
 It was Sabbath morning when they landed, — hence the 
 name. Here, in 1756, a small band of colonists were 
 attacked by a party of French troops and Indians, whom 
 they defeated with great slaughter. Again, in 1776, the 
 green sod of this point was stained with blood. A fight 
 took place between a band of Tories, with their Indian 
 allies, and a party of American militia, in which the 
 forfner were signally defeated. 
 
 The next point of peculiar interest that we come to is 
 
 ROGERS' SLIDE, 
 
 sn named from Major Rogers, who, while flying from the 
 Indians in 1758, practised upon them a riise, by which 
 he persuaded them that he had actually slid down the 
 stupendous declivity, which is about 400 feet high, with a 
 steep front of naked rock ; and well might the savages be 
 
ROGERS' SLIDE. 19 
 
 surprised at the bold Major's supposed descent, as they 
 stood baffled on the brink of the tremendous diflF. It 
 happened thus : — The Major was flying from his enemies, 
 on snow-shoes, during the winter, and eluded pursuit until 
 he reached the summit of this mountain. " Aware that 
 they would follow his track, he descended to the top of 
 the smooth rock, and, casting his knapsack and his 
 haversack of provisions down upon the ice, slipped off 
 his snow-shoes, and, without moving them, turned him- 
 seK about and put them on his feet again. He then re- 
 treated along the southern brow of the rock several rods, 
 and down a ravine he made his way safely to the lake 
 below, snatched up his pack, and fled on the ice to Fort- 
 George. The Indians in the meanwhile coming up to 
 the spot, saw the two tracks, both apparently approach- 
 ing the precipice, and concluded that two persons had 
 cast themselves down the rock rather than fall into tlieir 
 hands. Just then they saw the bold leader of the 
 Rangers making his way across the ice ; and, believing 
 that he had slid down the steep face of the rock, con- 
 sidered him under the special protection of the Great 
 Spirit, and made no attempt at pursuit." 
 
 The lake is narrowed here by Rogers' Slide on the one 
 hand, and St. Anthony's huge Nose on the other. 
 
 Prisoners' Island is two miles farther on. Here, 
 during the wars, the prisoners taken by the English 
 were confined ; and from this spot some of them escaped 
 by swimming ashore. 
 
20 FORT TICONDEROQA. 
 
 How^s Landing lies to -the west of Prisoners' Island. 
 Here the Englisli army under Abercrombie landed in 
 1758, previous to attacking Ticonderoga. It is named 
 after Lord Howe, who fell in that expedition. A little 
 farther and we reach the foot of the lake, and the ter- 
 mination of our pleasant voyage down this beautiful 
 sheet of water. 
 
 FORT TICONDEROGA. 
 
 This fort was built by the French in 1756, and was 
 named by them Camllon. Happily its present beautiful 
 Indian name has entirely supplanted the other. Ticon- 
 deroga signifies noisj/; and it is the name given by the 
 natives to the falls at the outlet of Lake George. The 
 fort is a peaceful ruin now ; but it was the scene of many 
 a fierce struggle in the warlike days of old. 
 
 Before reaching this fortress, however, we have a 
 delightful walk or drive of four miles before us, along the 
 short and sparkling stream that connects Lake George 
 with Champlain, for Ticonderoga belongs to the latter 
 lake. 
 
 The turbulent little stream makes a descent of 230 
 feet, in the course of which there are two series of 
 beautiful cascades, called The Falls of Ticonderoga. 
 The romance of these is done away, however, to some 
 extent, by the manufactories which the good people of 
 the villages of Alexandria and Ticonderoga have erected 
 on the banks. Through these villages we pass on our 
 
FORT TICONDEROGA.. 21 
 
 way down. The walk is most charming. The scenery 
 varies continually, and openings in the foliage reveal 
 vistas of the distant landscape, — the lake, and the hills 
 and valleys of Vermont beyond ; while the riotous stream 
 foams and tumbles beside us, presenting at every turn 
 new and beautiful combinations of rock and water, 
 draped with rich verdure, the coloiu-s of which harmo- 
 nize pleasantly with the bright blue peeps that we obtain 
 of Lake Champlain ever and anon as we jog along. 
 
 The Upper Falls, near the village of Alexandria, con- 
 sist of a succession of bold leaps, which make a descent 
 of 200 feet within the distance of a mile, The water 
 power is unlimited ; for which latter utilitarian remark 
 we apologize to the romantic reader. 
 
 The Lower Fall descends 30 feet perpendicularly, and 
 is situated near the village of Ticonderoga, where it is 
 turned aside and compelled to work, ere it continues its 
 headlong passage to Lake Champlain. 
 
 In 1758 Fort Ticonderoga was attacked by an English 
 army of 16,000 men under Abercrombie ; the same army 
 to which we have already referred as having landed, in 
 passing, on Sabbath-day Point. They traversed Lake 
 George in upwards of a thousand boats, and landed at 
 the lower end in safety. Here, however, the good for- 
 tune of the English forsook them. Their progress was 
 much retarded as they approached the French lines, and 
 they had frequent skirmishes with the enemy, in one of 
 which Lord Howe was filled. Still they pressed for- 
 
22 PORT TICONDEROGA. 
 
 ward, until their columns were broken and thrown into 
 such disorder by the thick woods, that their leader 
 deemed it pmdent to fall back and encamp for the night 
 at the lower end of Lake George. 
 
 The following day was one of dire disaster to the Eng- 
 lish. The French garrison amounted to 6000 men, and 
 an additional body of 3000 was on its way to re-enforce 
 them. This was known to Abercrombie, who, anxious 
 to make the assault before the succours could arrive, led 
 forward his army to the attack early in the morning. 
 The only point at which the fort was assailable was de- 
 fended by a strong line of breastworks, composed of 
 felled trees and bushes. As the English approached, a 
 well-directed fire of artillery was opened upon them ; 
 but they continued to advance with unflinching firmness 
 until they gained the breastwork. Here, however, their 
 progress was completely arrested. For four hours they 
 vainly endeavoured with their swords to cut through the 
 tangled masses of timber and branches, while a murder- 
 ous fire of artillery and musketry was poured into them 
 by the French, who were completely under shelter. At 
 length Abercrombie, becoming convinced that his troops 
 would be annihilated if the unequal conflict should be 
 prolonged, gave the order to retreat, and the remnant 
 of that fine army returned once again to their former 
 encampment, having lost nearly 2000 men. The retreat 
 was efl"ected without further loss, as the French did not 
 pursue them. 
 
FORT TICONDEllOGA. 23 
 
 The stronghold which had cost so much brave blood 
 was obtained without a struggle the following year, 
 when it was abandoned by the French and taken pos- 
 session of by the English under General Amherst. 
 
 Ticonderoga on another occasion changed hands with 
 scarcely any shedding of^blood. In 1775 it was ordered 
 to be taken by a body of Americans. " The Green Moun- 
 tain Boys" were selected for this work, and marched to 
 the attack under their famous leader, Ethan Allen. 
 On reaching the shore of the lake opposite the fort, 
 Allen endeavoured to obtain a guide who was acquainted 
 with the ground and the places of access to the foi-t. 
 He was successful. A boy named Nathan Beman, who 
 was in the habit of playing with the boys of the fort, 
 and knew every hole and corner about it, agreed to 
 guide them. Some difficulty was at first experienced in 
 procuring boats, but at length enough were obtained, 
 and a party of 83 Americans crossed silently over about 
 dawn on the 10th of May. While the boats returned 
 for the remainder of his troops, Allen resolved to make 
 the attack at once with the men that he had. Drawing 
 them up m three ranks, he made them a short harangue, 
 and then, placing himself at their head, led the way 
 stealthily and rapidly up the heights. So silently had 
 all the arrangements been made, that on arriving at the 
 gates they were found wide open, and the first intimation 
 the sentinel had of the presence of a foe was the sight 
 ^f Allen and his men marching into the barrack-yard. 
 
24 FORT TICONDEROGA. 
 
 The astounded sentinel snapped his musket at the bold 
 leader and retreated. Another sentinel, more resolute 
 than his comrade, wounded an officer with his bayonet, 
 but was immediately cut down by Allen, and was con- 
 strained to beg for quarter. 
 
 The Americans now drew up on the parade-ground, 
 and announced their presence to the slumbering gan-ison 
 by giving three hearty cheers. Allen then found his 
 way to the apartment of the commandant, whom he 
 aroused by demanding, in no gentle voice, that the fort 
 should be instantly surrendered. The astonished French- 
 man sprang from his bed, rubbed his eyes as if he sus- 
 pected himself of dreaming, and asked by what authority 
 his rude visitor presumed to make such a demand. "In 
 the name of the great Jehovah and the Continental 
 Congress," answered Allen. 
 
 At first the commandant seemed inchned to argue the 
 point, but a peremptory repetition of the demand, and 
 an unmistakable gesture with the sword from the stout 
 American, convinced him that descretion was the better 
 part of valour. He ordered his men to parade without 
 arms, and Ticonderoga was surrendered. 
 
 The garrison consisted of a captain, a lieutenant, and 
 forty-eight privates, all of whom were taken prisoners 
 and forwarded to Hartford. One hundred and twenty 
 pieces of cannon, besides swivels, mortars, and small 
 arms, fell into the hands of the captors on this 
 occasion. The fort remained in the possession of the 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 25 
 
 Americans till 1777, when General Boiirgoyne laid siege 
 to it. 
 
 Mount Defiance, a hill not far from the fortifications 
 at Ticonderoga, completely commands the fort, being 
 considerably higher. The Americans supposed that it 
 was impossible to convey cannon to its summit. They 
 were mistaken, however ; Bourgoyne took possession of 
 the hill and began to erect batteries on it. Seeing that 
 all prospect of holding out against such circumstances 
 was hopeless, St. Clair, the American general, resolved 
 to abandon the post, and also Moimt Independence, 
 which he held at the time. The retreat was effected 
 next morning, and Ticonderoga was taken possession of 
 and held by the British till the close of the war. 
 
 In our spirited engraving of the south end of Lake 
 Champlain, Fort Ticonderoga is seen on the left, with a 
 background of woods ; while, on the right, we have the 
 windings of the lake, dotted with small craft. 
 
 Leaving the old ruin behind us, we now turn to 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 This is one of the most interesting of the American 
 lakes, both on account of its beautiful scenery and its 
 historical associations. It was discovered in 1609 by 
 Samuel Champlain, the great founder of Quebec and the 
 early settlements in Canada. 
 
 Having established the infant colony on Cape 
 
 Diamond, and passed the winter of 1608 there, Chara- 
 
 4 
 
26 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 plain started, on the 28th of May 1609, to explore the 
 interior. In order to facilitate his operations, he entered 
 into an agreement with his Indian friends, who belonged 
 to the celebrated Algonquin nation, to assist them in a 
 proposed invasion of the lands of the Iroquois. Accord- 
 ingly he took a band of soldiers along with him. Hav- 
 ing passed Lake St. Peter, they arrived at the mouth of 
 the river which he was told took its rise in the country of 
 the Iroquois. This was the Richelieu. They had not pro- 
 ceeded far, however, ere their progress was interrupted by 
 the Chambly rapids, which dashed furiously from bank to 
 bank amid rocks and stones. Up this the boat could not 
 be taken, and the obstacles in the way of cutting a road 
 through the woods were so great, that Champlain deter- 
 mined to commit himself to the canoes of his savage 
 allies, and share their fate. His men, however, refused 
 to accompany him, with the exception of two, who seem 
 to have been more courageous than the others. 
 
 Leaving the rest of the party behind, the bold dis- 
 coverer and his two men followed the savages. They 
 carried the light canoes, arms, and baggage, half a league 
 overland, and, re-embarking above the falls, they con- 
 tinued their joui-ney. Finally they emerged upon the 
 magnificent bosom of the lake on which Champlain 
 bestowed his name. The party, on deadly war intent, 
 continued their voyage until they reached the beautiful 
 waters of Lake George ; and here they caught the first 
 glimpse of their enemies. 
 
liAKE CHAMPLAIN. 27 
 
 The Iroquois instantly flew to arms, on beholding 
 the invaders, and intrenched themselves behind a strong 
 fortification of trunks of trees. Nothing was done that 
 night, however. It was spent by both parties in dancing 
 their war dances, and shouting defiance to each other. 
 Next day the two bands drew near to fight. Then, for 
 the first time, the echoes of the lake reverberated with 
 the report of fire-ai-ms, and the breasts of the awe- 
 stricken savages heaved with terror. Champlain fired 
 an arquebus loaded with four balls, by which he killed 
 two Indians and mortally wounded a third. Still the 
 brave Iroquois stood their ground, recovered from theh* 
 sui'prise, and poured in clouds of arrows; when another 
 and another deadly shot from the thickets struck such 
 terror into their hearts that they turned and fled pre- 
 cipitately, abandoning their fortification, and seeking 
 protection in the heart of the forest. A number were 
 killed, and ten or twelve taken prisoners; and these 
 latter were put to death in the usual savage fashion, 
 with horrible tortures. 
 
 The extent of Lake Champlain is as follows : It is 
 120 miles long, from Whitehall at the southern to St. 
 John's at the northern end. It lies north and south, and 
 its northern extremity crosses the line that divides the 
 United States from Canada. In breadth the lake varies 
 from one fourth of a mile to thirteen miles, and it covers an 
 area of 500 miles. Its waters are well stored with salmon, 
 sturgeon, trout, pickerel, and other varieties of fish. 
 
28 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 Lake Champlain forms part of one of the main routes 
 between the United States and Canada. The navigable 
 waters of the Hudson are connected witli it by the Cham- 
 plain Canal, which is sixty-four miles long, and forty feet 
 wide. It has twenty-one locks, and rises to a height of 
 134 feet above the Hudson, descending again fifty-four 
 feet to the lake. At Sandy Hill it has a feeder of con- 
 siderable size, which is navigable. The cost of construc- 
 tion was nearly 1,080,000 dollars; and it took about 
 three years to complete, having been commenced in 
 1816, and finished in 1819. This lake is also connected 
 with the St. Lawrence and Montreal by canal and rail- 
 way ; and also with New York, Boston, and Ogdensburg. 
 
 Its waters are crowded with shipping of all kinds; 
 steamers, tugs, sloops, schooners, canal-boats, barges, 
 and small craft, are constantly passing to and fro, giving 
 life and animation to the scene. The steamers are first 
 rate in ail respects — swift, elegant, commodious, and well 
 manned. They run daily from Whitehall to Rouse's 
 Point, stopping at intermediate stations. 
 
 The appearance of steamers at night is exceed- 
 ingly grand. The wood with which their fires are fed 
 sends forth clouds of the most brilliant sparks, which 
 issue from their funnels like a magnificent pyrotechnic 
 display; and when the night chances to be so dark that 
 the bodies of the vessels are not visible, they have the 
 appearance of monstrous fiery serpents as they go rush- 
 ing past. The first steamboat built on this lake com- 
 
WHITEHALL, 29 
 
 menced to run in 1S09. There have been ui3wards of 
 twenty steamers launched on its bosom since then, and 
 there are upwards of 200 sloops from 50 to 100 tons 
 burden. 
 
 From the town of Whitehall, situated at the southern 
 extremity of Champlain, to Ticonderoga, the lake is 
 very narrow, seldom exceeding a mile in breadth, and 
 frequently being much less. There is a bend called the 
 Elbow, about half a mile from Whitehall, which is so 
 naiTOw that large boats have considerable difficulty in 
 passing ; and steamers sometimes use a rope, fastened to 
 the shore, to assist their helm in making the sharp turn. 
 At Shale's Landing, a short distance from Mount Inde- 
 pendence, the lake is only forty rods wide. As we approach 
 the centre of the lake a large sheet of water spreads out 
 to view, and the scenery is extremely picturesque, bold 
 headlands appearing as we advance, and magnificent 
 mountain ranges stretching away on either side, — 
 the Green Mountains with the conspicuous Camel's 
 Hump on the east, and the Adirondack range on 
 the west. The latter abounds with iron ore and fine 
 timber, and the highest peak rises to upwards of 5000 feet. 
 
 The starting-point from the head of the lake is 
 
 WHITEHALL. 
 
 This is a bustling town, close beside the junction of 
 the canal with lake Champlain. 
 Travellers who have readied Champlain via Lake 
 
30 WHITEHALL. 
 
 George do not touch here, but as some prefer to travel 
 from Albany direct by rail to Whitehall, we will begin 
 with this village. 
 
 It was a place of considerable importance during the 
 early French and Indian wars, and afterwards duiing 
 the war of Independence. It was known by the name 
 of Skeenesborough, after Major Skeene, who resided here 
 before the Revolution. The town is a great thorough- 
 fare and very prosperous. It is situated in a wild rocky 
 ravine at the foot of Skeene's Mountain. It was incor- 
 porated in 1820, and contains a population of upwards 
 of 4000. There are four churches, a bank, upwards of 
 thirty stores, and numerous warehouses and mercantile 
 establishments; besides two dry docks, two ship-building 
 yards, and several tanneries, brickyards, &c. 
 
 The hills in its immediate neighbourhood are high 
 and rugged, while to the southward Ues the valley formed 
 by Wood Creek, in which were marshalled the French, 
 English, and American armies, during the wars of 1759 
 and 1776. During the latter war the American forces 
 rendezvoused here, when the country was invaded by 
 General Bourgoyne, this point and Lake George being 
 the only two approaches from Canada. 
 
 Duiing the old French war General Putnam escaped 
 from the Indians, it is said, by plunging into the lake a 
 mile to the north of Whitehall, and swimming his horse 
 to the opposite shore. 
 
 From this point travellers may, if so disposed, pro 
 
CROWN POINT. 31 
 
 ceed on their journey northward by railway via Ver- 
 mont, Castleton, Rutland, Burlington, &c., to Rouse's 
 Point. 
 
 Bemon, thirteen miles from Whitehall, is the first 
 place at which the rushing steamer checks her onward 
 course, and glides up to the landing. The lake begins 
 to widen here a little. 
 
 Orwell is the next halting point, seven miles farther 
 on. The lake widens to two miles here. At the tv/enty- 
 fourth mile from Whitehall the steamer reaches Ticon- 
 deroga. Here she stops to pick up passengers who have 
 sailed down Lake George, and here we will embark and 
 proceed to examine the beauties of Champlain. 
 
 During the greater part of the passage between Ticon- 
 deroga and Burhngton, a fine view is had of the Green 
 Mountains, stretching along the eastern shore of the 
 lake ; and conspicuous features of the scene are the 
 CameVs Hump, and the Nose and Chin of Mansfield 
 Mountaiiis, farther to the north. 
 
 The first place of peculiar interest that we come 
 
 to is 
 
 CROWN POINT. 
 
 The fort here was sui-prised and taken by the Green 
 Mountain Boys, under Seth Warner, on the same day 
 in which Ethan Allen took Ticonderoga. The lake 
 widens up a little between Ticonderoga and Crown 
 Point, and there are two or three landing-places on the 
 east side. 
 
32 CKOWN POINT. 
 
 The first settlement was made here in 1731, by the 
 French, who built a fort, which they named Fort St. Fre- 
 derick, after Frederick Maurepas, the French Secretary 
 of State. This fort was erected on the brow of a steep 
 bank close to the water, and the dilapidated ruins of its 
 ovens, bomb-proof covered way, and walls, are still to be 
 seen. 
 
 The settlement here flomished for some time under 
 the protection of the French garrison, from wliich, dur- 
 ing the colonial wars, parties were sent out frequently 
 to destroy the frontier EngUsh settlements and massacre 
 the inhabitants. In 1749 there were well cultivated 
 fields and gardens around the fort, and a small church 
 within its walls. Close to it were two strong redoubts, 
 and a battery named Grenadier's Battery. 
 
 In 1759, Crown Point fell into the hands of the Bri- 
 tish. On the approach of General Amherst and the 
 English army, the French abandoned the position and 
 retired to the north end of the lake. Instead of repairing 
 the French works, however, the British General com- 
 menced a new fort on higher ground, about 200 yards to 
 the south-west of the old buildings, and named it Crown 
 Point. The work, however, was never finished, although 
 enormous sums were expended upon it by the British 
 Government. It was begun on a magnificent scale, as 
 the remains show. The ramparts were twenty-four feet 
 high and about twenty-five feet thick, and riveted with 
 solid masonry. The whole circuit of tlie fort was nearly 
 
FORT CASSIN. 33 
 
 half a mile. In one of the bastions there is a deep well, 
 and an under-ground communication with the lake. The 
 barracks, some of which are still standing, were built of 
 solid masonry, and the width of the Point on which the 
 remains of the fort stand is about a mile. 
 
 Chimney Point is on the opposite shore. It was pro- 
 bably so named on account of the chimneys of the French 
 huts, which remained standing after the position was 
 abandoned in 1759. The width of the lake between the 
 two points is about half a mile. 
 
 Port Henry is situated on Cedar Point, on the same 
 side with Crown Point— from which it is one and a half 
 mile distant — at the mouth of Bulwagga Bay. Tliere 
 is excellent iron ore in this neighbourhood, which is 
 worked by the Port Henry Iron Company. 
 
 West Port, sixteen miles from Crown Point, is on 
 North-west Bay, on the east side of the lake. There is a 
 ferry here across the lake to Basin Harbour, in Ver- 
 mont. The place is prosperous, and contains upwards 
 of 800 inhabitants. 
 
 Basin Harbour is the landing for the city of Vergennes, 
 from which it is five miles distant. 
 
 FORT CASSIN 
 is three miles north of Basin Harbour, and was formerly 
 a landing-place of passengers for Vergennes. Here was 
 fitted out the fleet with which Commodore Macdonougl? 
 gained his victory over the British in 1814, The fort 
 
34 SPLIT ROCK. 
 
 was named after Lieutenant Cassin of the American 
 navy. This gallant officer, with 200 men, commanded 
 by himself and Captain Thornton of the artillery, re- 
 pulsed, on the 14th May 1814, a strong British force 
 which attempted to destroy the American fleet, then 
 getting ready for sea in the neighbouring creek. 
 
 SPLIT ROOK. 
 
 This is the most remarkable natural curiosity on the 
 lake. It is an enormous mass of rock, about half an 
 acre in extent, and thirty feet above the level of 
 the water, which has been detached from the neighbour- 
 ing cliff, and separated from it about twelve feet. The 
 cause which effected the separation is not very certainly 
 ascertained. Some think that a convulsion of nature 
 did it; but it is more probable that a dike of soft 
 material formerly filled up the chasm, and that this has 
 been washed out. The water flows through this narrow 
 gorge when the lake is high, but when the lake is low 
 the passage is nearly dry. The rock is covered with 
 bushes and luxuriant herbage. This rock is noticed in 
 Charlevoix's map of 1744 as Rocher Fendu. 
 
 Beyond this point the lake widens considerably, and 
 at M'Neil's Ferry, between the village of Essex and 
 Charlotte's Landing, it is nearly three miles in width. 
 
 A lighthouse stands a little to the south of Split 
 Rock. 
 
 Essex is a little village opposite Charlottes Landing^ 
 
BURLINGTON. 35 
 
 sixty-one miles from Whitehall It contains upwards 
 of 700 inhabitants. 
 
 Four Brothers are four small islands, on which, in con- 
 sequence of their lying out of the line of passage, and there- 
 fore being undisturbed, the gulls delight to congregate. 
 They lie about seven miles to the south-west of Burlington. 
 
 Juniper Island lies four miles beyond the Four 
 Brothers. A lighthouse was erected on it in 1826. It 
 has precipitous banks of slate rock, about thirty feet high. 
 
 Not far from this, Rock Dundee rises out of the 
 water to a height of about thirty feet ; and close to it 
 is Pottiefs Point, at the mouth of Shelburn Bay. There 
 is a ship-yard here, called the Harbour, in which some 
 of the large steamboats are usually laid up during the 
 winter ; and here several of them have been built. 
 
 Two and a half miles farther on we come to a halt at 
 the landing-place of 
 
 BURLINGTON. 
 
 Our Engraving represents this beautiful toivn as seen from 
 the land, not frotn the water. 
 
 This is one of the most important towns in the State 
 of Vermont. It is twenty-five miles from Plattsburg 
 and fifty from Rouse's Point, situated on a fine bay of 
 the same name on the eastern shore of the lake, and 
 possessed of an excellent harbour for steamers and large 
 craft. A breakwater protects it from the westerly winds 
 and renders it doubly secure. The town is the centre of 
 
36 BURLINGTON. 
 
 several important lines of railway and steamboat com- 
 munication: it contains a population of about 9000 
 inhabitants, and is rapidly increasing in size and pros- 
 perity. Burlington is a port of entiy, and, by aiTange- 
 ments between the American and British Governments, 
 is one of the two ports on the lake at which merchandise, 
 passing from England through the United States into 
 Canada, is entered for inspection and exportation. The 
 other port of entry is Plattsburg. 
 
 The position of the town is exceedingly beautiful, and 
 some of the buildings are very picturesque, particularly 
 those of the University of Vermont, which was founded 
 in 1791. They consist of four spacious edifices. From 
 the dome on the principal of these the view is magnifi- 
 cent. On one hand we have the Wiiwoski River, which 
 tumbles in wild haste through dark ravines until it finds 
 rest in the peaceful meadow-lands to the north. Farms 
 and hamlets spread out in the distance, while at our 
 feet lies the bustling town, with its Episcopal Institute, 
 its court-house and jail ; eight churches of dijfferent 
 denominations, banking-houses, hotels, factories, mills ; 
 and four wharves, with warehouses, merchandise, and 
 shipping. Beyond lie the beautiful waters of the lake 
 — nearly ten miles wide at this point— on which steamers, 
 sloops, barges, and boats are continually passing, while 
 the shouts of their crews mingle with the buzz of the 
 busy fraternity on shore. 
 
 There is a gas-work here which supplies the town. 
 
BURLOGTON". 37 
 
 There is a pioneer mechanics' shop, in which are 
 several extensive manufactories carried on by steam- 
 power. 
 
 Wherever we travel in this world, we find a certain 
 class of individuals whose chief delight is to ascend to 
 the highest possible pinnacle of the highest mountain or 
 hill in any given locality. For the benefit of such in- 
 dividuals we may mention that Mansfield Mountain 
 (4279 feet high) lies twenty miles to the north-east of 
 Burlington, and the Camel's Hump (4183 feet high) is 
 about the same distance to the south-east. To both of 
 these hills conveyances may be obtained here. The 
 Vermont Central Railway runs near the base of the 
 latter mountain. From the summits of both the views 
 are most magnificent. 
 
 Winooski is a thriving manufacturing village little 
 more than a mile from Burlington, near the Lower Falls 
 of the Winooski River. The water-power here is very 
 great, and the inhabitants have made use of it pretty 
 extensively, various mills, and cotton and wooUen fac- 
 tories, and other establishments, having been erected 
 near the banks of the turbulent stream. 
 
 Port Kent is situated on the opposite side of the lake, 
 about ten miles distant. The site of the village is beau- 
 tiful, and the view of the lake from the landing is 
 particularly fine. 
 
 Tremhleu Point, the commencement of the Clinton 
 range of mountains, lies to the south of the landing at 
 
38 AU SABLE RIVER— PORT JACKSON. 
 
 Port Kent. An immense quantity of iron is shipped 
 from this port. 
 
 From this place to Plattsburg the course is along 
 the western shore of the lake. 
 
 THE AU SABLE RIVER, 
 
 which flows into the lake a little to the north of Port 
 Kent, passes through a region wliich is rich in iron ore. 
 On its banks there are several flourishing manufacturing 
 villages: Au Sable Fork, CHntonville, Keeseville, Bu-- 
 mingham, &c. At Birmingham and the A u Sahle Chasm 
 below — two miles from Port Kent — the falls on the river 
 are very fine and well worth visiting. The ravine at the 
 Chasm is singularly beautiful and romantic. The rocks 
 rise pei-pendicularly on either side of the river from 80 
 to 150 feet for a distance of nearly two miles, the aver- 
 age width being about fifty feet. We strongly advise a 
 short sojourn here. At Keeseville, four miles from 
 Port Kent, there is an excellent hotel named the Au 
 Sable House. 
 The next landing we reach is 
 
 PORT JACKSON. 
 
 This neighbourhood is noted for a severe naval engage- 
 ment which took place near Valcour Island, opposite, 
 in 1776, between the American fleet, under General 
 Arnold, and that of the British, under Captain Pringle. 
 The action began about twelve o'clock, and lasted until 
 
PORT JACKSON. 39 
 
 night closed in, neitlier side having gained the victory. 
 Arnold found his ships in such a crippled condition, 
 however, that he resolved not to risk another engage- 
 ment, and under cover of the night he made a bold dash 
 through the enemy's line, and escaped without having 
 been observed. 
 
 In the morning the British gave chase. The result 
 was the destruction of the American vessels. Arnold 
 held out gallantly to the last, and, when he found that 
 there was no chance of escape, boldly ran his vessels 
 ashore, about ten miles below Crown Point, and set them 
 on fire. After they were burned, he and his men made 
 good their retreat to Crown Point. 
 
 About six miles east from Port Jackson, the steamer 
 Phoenix was burned. This is the only accident of the 
 kind, worth mentioning, that has occiured since the 
 commencement of steam navigation on the lake in 1809. 
 It happened on the 5th of September 1819. 
 
 " On the morning of the accident, the Phoenix left 
 Burlington about one o'clock, against a strong head-wind. 
 About three o'clock, while off nearly west of the south 
 end of Grand Isle, the boat was discovered to be on fire, 
 and all efforts to extinguish it were unavailing. There 
 were at this time forty-four persons on board, thirty-one 
 of whom entered the small boats, and succeeded, with 
 considerable difficulty, in reaching a small island about 
 a mile to windward, called Providerice Island. The 
 remaining thirteen were soon obliged to commit them- 
 
40 PLATTSBURa. 
 
 selves to the water upon bits of plank, and such other 
 things as were within their reach. The small boats 
 returned just after daylight, and succeeded in saving six 
 of those who had managed to keep themselves afloat. 
 The remaining seven were drowned. The wreck drifted 
 southward, and lodged on a reef extending from Col* 
 Chester Point." 
 The next point we pass is the village of 
 
 PLATTSBURG. 
 Our View is taken from the land. 
 
 This is a spot of peculiar interest, as having been the 
 scene of a brilliant engagement during the last war with 
 the British. 
 
 This flourisliing village is pleasantly situated on both 
 sides of the Saranac River, in Clinton county, New 
 York. It contains about 4000 inhabitants, and on the 
 river there are several mills and manufactories. The 
 water-power here is considerable, and there is a succes- 
 sion of falls which make a total descent of forty feet. 
 This is one of the United States military posts, where 
 the Government have extensive barracks. The country 
 is rich in mineral productions, particularly iron ore of 
 fine quality. The steamers touch here daily during the 
 season of navigation, and there is a good break-water 
 for the protection of the shipping in the harbour of 
 Cumberland Bay. The Plattsburg and Montreal Rail- 
 
NAVAL ENGAGEMENT. 41 
 
 way starts from this village, running to Caughnawaga, 
 a distance of sixty-two miles. 
 
 The engagement that took place here between the 
 British and American fleets and armies, in September 
 1814, is a stirring incident in the history of those times. 
 
 NATAL ENGAGEMENT AND BATTLE OF 
 PLATTSBUKG. 
 
 In the summer of 1814, Lake Champlain became the 
 theatre of one of the fiercest struggles that took place be- 
 tween the Americans and the British during the last war. 
 The battle on the lake and the assault on land occurred 
 on the same day, the 11th September ; and terminated with 
 the same result, — the total defeat of the British. 
 
 Commodore Macdonough commanded the American flotilla, 
 which was lying in Plattsburg Bay, and which consisted of 
 the flag-ship Saratoga, of 26 guns; the Eagle, of 20; the 
 Ticonderoga, of 17 ; the Preble, of 7 ; and ten gun-boats, 
 carrying in all 16 guns. The crews amounted altogether to 
 880 men. 
 
 Commodore Downie commanded the British fleet, which 
 consisted of the frigate Confiance, of 37 guns ; the Linnet, of 
 16 guns; the Chub, of 11; the Finch, of 11; and 12 gun- 
 boats, carrying together 20 guns. The crews amounted in 
 all to upwards of 1000 men. The metal on both sides was 
 very heavy. 
 
 On the 7th of September, General Prevost appeared before 
 Plattsburg with the British army, consisting of 14,000 men, 
 and taking up a position, awaited the arrival of the fleet un- 
 der Captain Downie. Plattsburg was commanded by General 
 Macomb at the time, and was garrisoned by one brigade, and 
 a large body of militia. 
 
 It was Sunday morning when the fight began. Just as 
 the sun rose over the eastern mountains, the American 
 
42 NAVAL ENGAGEMENT 
 
 guard-boat on tlie watch was seen rowing Bwiftly into the 
 harbour, bearing intelligence that the enemy was in sight. 
 The drums immediately beat to quarters, and every vessel 
 was cleared for action. The preparations being completed, 
 Commodore Macdonough summoned his officers around him, 
 and read prayers on the deck of the Saratoga. It was a 
 solemn and thrilling spectacle. One probably never before 
 witnessed in a ship of war cleared for action. 
 
 As the enemy drew near, the churches on shore were de- 
 serted, and every eminence was crowded with anxious spec- 
 tators. On one side was the hostile squadron coming down 
 to the sound of music, — on the other stood the armies on 
 shore in order of battle, with their banners flying, — between 
 lay Macdonough's little fleet at anchor, silently awaiting the 
 coming struggle. 
 
 The English vessels, under easy sail, swept one after an- 
 other round Cumberland Head, and approached bows on. 
 The first shot was fired by the Americans from the Eagle, 
 which opened her broadsides. Startled by the sound, a cock 
 on board the Saratoga, which had escaped from the coop, 
 flew up on a gun-slide and crowed ! an action which was re- 
 ceived with a loud laugh and three hearty cheers by the crew, 
 who regarded it as a happy omen. Macdonough reserved 
 his fire tOl the enemy sailed closer up, and, when the Con- 
 fiance came within range, he sighted a long twenty-four and 
 fired. The heavy shot struck the Confiance, and, passing 
 along the entire length of her deck, killed many of her men, 
 and carried away the wheel. This was the signal for all the 
 vessels to open fire, and in a moment the quiet bay resounded 
 with the thunder of artillery, while clouds of thick smoke 
 rose into the clear sky. 
 
 The Confiance did not return the fire, but held steadily on 
 till within quarter of a mile of the Saratoga ; then she let go 
 her anchors, swung round, and delivered her whole broad- 
 side with a terrific crash. The Saratoga quivered from kel- 
 son to crosstrees under the tremendous discharge; nearly 
 
AND BATTLE OF PLATTSBURG. 43 
 
 half her crew were knocked down, and fifty men were either 
 killed or wounded. The next moment the men recovered 
 from the stunning efi"ects of the siidden and awful discharge, 
 and the Saratoga poured her broadside into the English ship 
 with terrible effect, while the latter replied so rapidly that 
 she seemed enveloped in flame. 
 
 The fire soon became so hot that the Eagle could not with- 
 stand it; she changed position, and fell in nearer shore, 
 leaving the Saratoga to sustain almost alone the whole weight 
 of the unequal contest. She returned broadside for broad- 
 side, but the weight of metal was against her, and she was 
 fast becoming a wreck, while her deck presented a scene of 
 the most frightful carnage. Suddenly a cry of despair rang 
 out from stem to stern, — " The Commodore is killed ! " and 
 the brave commander lay senseless upon the blood-stained 
 deck. This was a mistake, however ; Macdonough had been 
 knocked down by the boom, which was cut away by a shot, 
 and fell upon him ; but in a few minutes he recovered, and, 
 taking his place beside the gun that he had sighted from the 
 comme'Qcement of the action, again cheered on his men. 
 
 A second time the cry was raised, " The Commodore is 
 killed!" and every eye was turned to Macdonough, who 
 had been hurled completely across the ship, and lay between 
 two guns Covered with blood. But again the hero revived, 
 and, limping to his gun, coolly continued to huU the enemy. 
 At last aU the guns on the side of the Saratoga next the 
 enemy were rendered useless, and it seemed as if there were 
 nothing left but to surrender. But the sailing-master hit 
 upon an expedient by which the vessel was swung round, 
 and the other broadside brought to bear. 
 
 Meanwhile the Confiance was tembly shattered. The 
 British Commodore, Captain Downie, had fallen soon after 
 the battle began, and the ship had been huUed a hundred and 
 five times. Observing the manoeuvre of her antagonisl, she 
 endeavoured to imitate it, but failed, and lay with her 
 crippled side exposed to the fresh fire of the Saratoga. 
 
44 NAVAL ENGAQEMEXT 
 
 Fiorther resistance was therefore useless, and in a few minutes 
 she surrendered. The Saratoga then brought her guns to 
 bear on the Linnet, which struck after twenty minutes fire. 
 
 While this tei-rific contest was going on between the chief 
 ships of the opposing squadrons, tbe others were not idle. 
 The Ticonderoga, especially, under Lieutenant Cassin, was 
 handled in a manner that astonished every one. This 
 fearless officer walked backward and forward over his 
 blood-stained decks encouraging his men, and apparently 
 quite unmindful of the iron storm that rained around him. 
 His broadsides were so rapid and incessant, that several 
 times the vessel was thought to be on fire. 
 
 Soon after the commencement of the engagement the Chub 
 received a broadside from the Eagle, which so crippled her 
 that she drifted between the opposing vessels and struck. 
 The Finch was driven from her position by the Ticonderoga, 
 and drifted on the shoal near Crab Island. Here she was 
 fired into by the battery on that island, and surrendered. 
 Soon after this, the British gun-boats attemjjted to close, and 
 compelled the sloop Preble to cut her cables and anchor in 
 shore of the line, where she was of no service during the en- 
 gagement. They also made several gallant assaults on the 
 Ticonderoga, but were unsuccessful. Afterwards, as flag after 
 flag was lowered, the gunboats took to their sweeps and escaped. 
 
 The action lasted two hours and a half, and the loss on 
 both sides was very severe. So fiercely had the contest raged, 
 that there was not a mast in either fleet fit for use at its close. 
 
 Among those killed on the British side were, Captain 
 Downie, Captain Alexander Anderson, Midshipman William 
 Gunn, and Lieutenant William Paul. Among others the 
 Americans lost Lieutenant Peter Gamble, Lieutenant John 
 Stausburg, Midsliipman J, M. Baldwin, and Sailing Master 
 Rogers Carter. 
 
 Lieutenant Gamble of the Saratoga was on his knees sight- 
 ing a gun when a British shot entered the port, split the 
 quoin, drove a portion of it against his breast, and laid him 
 
AND BATTLE OP PLATTSBURG. 45 
 
 deaii on the deck without breaking the skin. Quarter of an 
 hour later an American shot struck the muzzle of a twenty- 
 four in the Confiance, which was driven bodily inboard, and 
 struck Captain Downie on the groin, killing him also without 
 breaking the skin. 
 
 Th.e Battle of Plattshurg \r^^ fought on shore while the 
 conflict was raging on the lake. The first shot from the 
 ships was the signal to begin; and, as the thunder of Provost's 
 heavy batteries mingled with the incessant broadsides of the 
 squadrons, the very shores trembled, and far over the lake 
 the echoes rolled away, carrying anxiety and fear into the 
 quiet farm-houses of Vermont. But when the flag of the 
 British Commodore was struck, the enemy on land, disheart- 
 ened and confused, retreated across the Saranac, and the 
 battle ceased. 
 
 Leaving the scene of this tremendous conflict we con- 
 tinue our voyage. 
 
 Cumberland Head, just passed, is a peninsula which 
 extends between two and thi-ee miles into the lake, oppo- 
 site the village of Plattsburg, and forming Cumberland 
 Bay, into which the Saranac River flows. On this point is 
 situated the farm presented to Commodore Macdonough 
 by the Legislature of Vermont. The point is connected 
 with South Hero Island by a ferry. This is the largest 
 island on the lake. It belongs to the jurisdiction of Ver- 
 mont, and is connected with the main shore by a bridge. 
 
 Proceeding onward, we next pass Chazij Landing, 
 sixteen miles from Plattsburg. 
 
 Isle La Motte is a fine large island, six miles long by 
 two wide, with a good marble quarry. It is attached to 
 Vermont. 
 
46 rouse's point. 
 
 At length we reach the termination of the lake and 
 of our voyage at 
 
 ROUSE'S POINT. 
 
 This is the last landing-place on the lake within the 
 United States, 25 miles from Plattsburg and 125 from 
 Whitehall. Immediately beyond is the head of the 
 Richelieu, or Sorel River, and the British territory. 
 " On a low point about a mile northward of the landing, 
 the United States Government commenced building a 
 fort in 1815, and after expending about two hundred 
 thousand dollars, it was discovered that the ground was 
 British soil. The work was abandoned, and so remained 
 until the conclusion of the treaty formed by Daniel 
 Webster and Lord Ashburn in 1842, when the territorial 
 line was run a little north of the fort, the building of 
 which was then resumed. 
 
 The line of separation is twenty-three miles south of 
 St. John's. A broad strip, running east and west, cut 
 into the forest on either side, indicates the limit of 
 American and British dominion. 
 
 Railways come in here from the eastern States through 
 Vermont, and are prolonged by the Champlain and St. 
 Lawrence Road to Montreal. 
 
 Travellers to Canada may continue their voyage by 
 steamboat to the head of navigation on these waters, at 
 the town of St. John's. A long and massive drawbridge 
 is thrown over the foot of Lake Champlain, for the ac- 
 
rouse's point. 47 
 
 commodation of the railway traffic passing from Montreal 
 and Ogdensburg to New York and Boston. This is 
 the only thoroughfare between the Eastern States and 
 Canada during the winter months. 
 
 Rouse's Point is a port of entry, and travellers on arriv- 
 ing or departing, are subjected to the annoyance of having 
 their baggage examined by the custom-house officers. 
 
 Ash Island, between three and four miles north of 
 the line, is regarded as the termination of the lake and 
 the commencement of the Richeheu River, which forms 
 its outlet. The river here is about half a mile wide. 
 
 La Colle, on the west side, was a mihtary post of the 
 British during the last war. An unsuccessful attack 
 was made on it by the Americans in 1814, 
 
 Isle aux Noix^ a strongly fortified position, twelve 
 miles north of Rouse's Point, is the British frontier post 
 and the first landing in Canada. It is occupied by 
 British troops, and completely commands the channel 
 of the river. 
 
 Alburg, Vermont, is on a triangular piece of ground 
 projecting from Canada into the lake, which surrounds 
 it, except on the Canada side. The village of Alburg, 
 a port of entry, lies on the eastern shore; and to the 
 north of this a few miles, are the Alburg Springs, a 
 celebrated watering-place. 
 
 Highgate Springs, seventeen miles from Rouse's 
 Point, is another favourite resort, affording excellent 
 fishing and hunting. 
 
48 rouse's point. 
 
 Misdsquoi Bay lies chiefly in Canada, or north of 
 the forty-fifth degree of north latitude. This large sheet 
 of water is romantically situated amid very beautiful 
 scenery. The climate is delightful and invigorating. 
 Fishing and hunting are to be enjoyed on its shores, and 
 hundreds of visitors crowd to it aunually in search of 
 health and amusement. 
 
 It is a fitting termination to Lake Champlain, which, 
 in connection with Lake George, forms one of the most 
 beautiful, interesting, and enjoyable localities and sum- 
 mer resorts in the United States of America. 
 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
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