Qass V \Z^ 
 
mym^^ 
 
 S^T>^*'— 
 
 "S 4 Xr-ni ■ 
 
 f ^ — - — 
 
 ^'%^m..- ,^-r;;i{ 
 
 i)is<o\ fioii i»v LESTER HOW'l M<in 11 li»'i_\ 
 
11 
 
A DESCRIPTION 
 
 HOWE'S CAVEr 
 
 WITH A POPXIEiAB TREATISE ON THE 
 
 FORMATION OF CAVES IN LIME ROCK, 
 
 FKOM THE SIZE OF A QUILL TO A MAMMOTH. 
 
 Slluetrateb m\\\ Nutnercits ©ngratjings. 
 
 ALBANY : 
 
 WEED, PAESONS AND COMPANY, PRINTERS. 
 1865. 
 
hl'2.<=l 
 
 otl^ 
 
 <y< 
 
HOWE'S CAVE. 
 
 Oayes are found in various portions of the world and in 
 various kinds of rock, but lime rock is their choice seat, 
 and contain more than all other formations in the world. 
 
 The primary limestone formations contain the largest 
 number of caves, but they are limited in extent by the 
 limited extent of the rock in which they are found, while 
 the largest caves are found in lime rock of a much larger 
 extent and of a more recent geological date. 
 
 Having now glanced at the rock in which the largest and 
 most numerous caves are found, let us now look at the tools 
 or agents with which nature performs her work, and see how 
 from such simple means such wonderful results are produced. 
 
 The direct and indispensable agent employed is water, 
 and the incidental are sand or gravel which operate by 
 mecii«,nical action, which consists in wearing away the rock 
 with which it comes in contact in passing along the chan- 
 nel ; but when water has absorbed carbonic acid from the 
 atmosphere or other sources, then another action is added, 
 which is chemical action, which consists in absorbing a 
 small portion of the lime rock with which it comes in con- 
 tact, and carrying it off in its passage. 
 
 The chemical action may. operate with equal or greater 
 rapidity upon the hardest rock, while the reverse is true of 
 ^mechanical actipn. 
 
 Having now briefly examined the tools with which 
 •na»ture works in the formations of caves, let us examine 
 the manner in which they are used, and see how, from two 
 agents, water ^nd sand, and two actions incidental to those 
 
agents, mecbauical aud clieniical, caves, stalactites and 
 stalagmites, which assume ten thousand different ludicrous 
 and indescribable forms, are produced, and trace them in 
 their growth from their embr^^ouic state through their dif- 
 ferent periods of existence to their decay. 
 
 The first aud absolutely indispensable agent is water, 
 which first operates by finding a passage between some 
 strata of rock or through some crevice, and having found a 
 passage, its own mechanical action begins, aud if it contain 
 carbonic acid, then in addition to the mechanical action is 
 the chemical action of the water. 
 
 When the passage of the first drop of water is effected 
 the existence of the cave in embryo has commenced, and 
 although it may require innumerable centuries to enlarge it 
 to the size of the quill with which you write, the continued 
 action of the same agent, with the addition of sand and 
 gravel as the cave enlarges, will develope a cave of magni- 
 ficent dimensions and give to it a thousand curious arches 
 and notches and nooks and conical cavities of almost every 
 conceivable size and form. 
 
 When water trickles down from a crevice above into the 
 cave, the water, either by chemical or mechanical action, 
 slowly carries off the rock with which it comes in contact, 
 thus producing cavities varying in size from the slightest 
 perceptible depression to those high conical chambers whose 
 height is yet to be measured. 
 
 But this is not all ; the water and detritus falling from 
 above may, by its own mechanical action, wear away the 
 rock upon which it falls and form a cavity on the floor of 
 the cave beneath ; but, in addition to this, if the falling 
 water is not fully saturated with lime rock before it falls, its 
 chemical action will again be brought iuto play aud the rock 
 removed with increased rapidity ; and these cavities, like 
 those formed above, vary in size from the slightest percep- 
 tible depression to those of an immense depth. 
 
 AVhen the water trickles down the sides of the cave, it 
 forms niches, some of which resemble those in the Capitol 
 at Washington made for the deposit of statuary. In this 
 
manner cavities in the sides of the cave are often made of 
 almost every conceivable shape and size. 
 
 But sometimes exactly the reverse of this takes place, 
 and instead of a cavity being formed in the top of the cave, 
 a pendulous material is formed, pointing down like an 
 icicle, and instead of a cavity being formed below, a mass 
 is formed extending upward ; and this leads us to the sub- 
 ject of stalactites and stalagmites, and first, incidentally, to 
 the ornaments formed by them. 
 
 I^ature having now formed the cavern with its thousand 
 curious curves and windings, and niches above and below 
 and on the walls, with its music halls and museum depart- 
 ments, with its Harlem tunnels and haunted castles, with its 
 winding ways and rotundas, with running streams and 
 Stygian lakes, has as yet only prepared it for the reception 
 of her finer artistic work. 
 
 In architecture it is yet to be stored with columns, arches 
 and gargoyles, and a thousand other things. 
 
 In sculpture, the niches are to be filled with statues of 
 every size and form, and clothed in the habiliments of 
 nudity, and the waters with mermaids and other appropriate 
 designs. 
 
 In music, the rooms are to be hung with the harp and the 
 lyre. 
 
 The museum department is yet to become the abode of 
 wild animals whose bones are yet to be incased in marble, 
 and perhaps to be exhumed to fill some museum by 
 races of men whose progenitors are not yet denizens of 
 earth. 
 
 The rooms are yet to be filled with drapery and things 
 bearing a strong resemblance to household furniture. 
 
 The menagerie is yet to be painted upon the walls, and a 
 thousand other things too numerous to mention, all of 
 which is done by the action of water. 
 
 We have seen that water holding carbonic acid has 
 acquired the property of dissolving a small portion of lime 
 rock, with which it comes in contact, and carrying it off in 
 its passage. 
 
6 
 
 We have now to examine the process by which this same 
 ■water, instead of carrying oif its lime rock, is made to 
 deposit it upon the part with which it comes in con- 
 tact. 
 
 AVhen a drop of water charged with lime rock to its point 
 of saturation hangs on the arch of the cave, a small portion 
 evaporates and deposits jnst the amount of lime rock held 
 in the water evaporated ; but if the water is not fully satu- 
 rated with lime rock no deposit takes place till the point of 
 saturation is reached, and it is by a continuation of this 
 process for long periods of time that pendulous masses 
 hanging from the arch of the cave are formed, called sta- 
 lactites, but when the water collects faster than it evapo- 
 rates, it falls off on the floor beneath, which, by slowly 
 evaporating, deposits its lime rock, thus forming a material 
 extending upwards called a stalagmite. When these 
 extend so as to meet, they form pillars, and sometimes 
 columns. 
 
 AVhen several of these stalactites and stalagmites form 
 within a few inches of each other, they often extend in 
 length and size so as to unite and form a large column. 
 
 When the water drips over some jetting rock it forms 
 sheets and valances, and a thousand strangely shaped 
 forms. 
 
 When the cave is partly filled with clay, and the falling 
 water deposits its lime rock on its surface, it forms a cover- 
 ing of variable thickness, and when the clay on which it 
 was deposited is washed away, it forms a bridge spanning 
 the cave from side to side. 
 
 When the material of which these stalactites are formed 
 is pure, the stalactites are white and often translucent, but 
 when the water from which they are deposited contains 
 impurities, the color varies from a white to a dark brown, 
 and frequently the color varies in the same stalactite, in 
 layers or concentric rings, the number of which may be 
 greatly increased by the microscope, thus, perhaps, record- 
 ing tlie wet and dry seasons of the year ages ago. 
 
 Small stalactites resemble icicles, except in being hollow 
 
several inches from the lower end, which is caused by the 
 evajjoration of the water from the outside of the drop, 
 which hangs from its lower end, thus causing a deposit of 
 stalactite where the evaporation takes place, and thus 
 forms a tube. They continue to increase in size by the 
 evaporation of the water which runs down the outside, and 
 the larger the surface exposed the more rapidly is the water 
 evaporated and the material deposited. 
 
 Stalagmites, unlike stalactites, are never hollow, and are 
 generally more blunt. 
 
 Stalagmites vary in size from a small icicle to a haystack, 
 and sometimes completely obstruct the passage in the cave. 
 
 The rapidity with which these stalactite formations are 
 produced depends upon the extent to which the water is 
 charged with lime rock, and the rapidity with which it 
 is evaporated. 
 
 Having now seen how stalactitic formations are produced, ' 
 let us now see how the same agent which gave them birth 
 and growth again assumes its prerogative and denies their 
 title to the land of their nativity, a title which they seem to 
 have acquired by prescriptive right for unknown ages. 
 
 When water holding carbonic acid, which is not completely 
 saturated with lime rock, comes in contact with stalactitic 
 formations, it absorbs the stalactite and removes it in its 
 passage, precisely in the same manner as the rock of which 
 it was formed was removed. 
 
 Hitherto only two agents (water and sand), and two 
 actions incidental to those agents (mechanical and chemi- 
 cal), have played a part in the drama. 
 
 Let us now examine the effect of gravitation (perhaps 
 hastened by earthquakes), and see how large rooms are 
 formed, mountains raised and destroyed, side passages or 
 new caverns brought into existence, sink-holes in the earth 
 are made, and death or decay of the old cave accomplished. 
 
 Coeval with the development of the larger rooms is the 
 beginning of decay, the formation of mountains and the com- 
 mencement of new caves. 
 
 Sometimes earthquakes or other causes separate an im- 
 
8 
 
 mense mass of rock from the arcli of the cave, which falls 
 and forms a nearly corresponding elevation on the floor 
 beneath, and this is the first great step toward decay. This 
 fallen mass of rock may, after a long time, he reduced in 
 size, or even removed by the stream flowing over its summit 
 or through its base, thus altering the relation of the arch 
 above to the mountain below. 
 
 Thus large rooms are formed which, though often of 
 irregular shape, are well calculated to excite wonder and 
 amazement. 
 
 The next result which follows from the fallen mass of 
 rock, is the obstruction afforded to the stream, which, if 
 complete, begins at once to hunt some passage around the 
 mountain, between some strata or through some crevice, 
 and form a side passage or cave which may enter the main 
 cave many rods below, or, like some strange comet, acknow- 
 ' ledge no law but its own, and pursue its course, by virtue 
 of its own prerogative, to parts unknown. 
 
 When the fallen mass of rock only obstructs the passage 
 of water during the floods of spring, the boring of the cave 
 will continue only for a few weeks in the year, but, perhaps, 
 before the new cave has reached its x)eriod of childhood, the 
 fallen mass is removed, and the growth of the cave sus- 
 pended for an eternal age, which means only till another 
 mass of rock falls, perhaps from the same place, and again 
 compels the water to resume its labor and bore out the rock 
 slowly and, perhaps, interruptedly, till it rivals the old cave 
 in size and magnificence, and which, in its turn, is to meet 
 with similar obstructions, and rear another brood of young 
 caverns. 
 
 It is by a repetition of the fallen mass of rock that so 
 weakens the arch of the cave, that the surface of the ground 
 falls in and forms tunnel shaped holes called sink-holes, 
 which always mark the course and extent of caves whose 
 glory has departed. 
 
 Having now briefly glanced at some of the most import- 
 ant items in relation to caves in lime rock, let us now 
 
9 
 
 proceed to examine one of nature's most wonderful freaks, 
 known as Howe's Oaye, which in its present traversable 
 extent is second to one only in the United States. 
 
 Howe's Gave is situated in the town of Oobleskill, county 
 of Schoharie, l^ew York, thirty-eight miles from Albany, 
 immediately on the line of the Albany and Susquehanna 
 Eailroad. 
 
 It was a knowledge of the kind of rock in which large 
 caves are found, and the sink-holes which mark the track of 
 old caves, together with a general knowledge of the coun- 
 try around that led Lestek Howe to suppose the country 
 to be cavernous. Thus stimulated by the light of science, 
 he was led to search the country for caves, which he com- 
 menced in the spring of 1841, and, after a diligent search, 
 his efforts were crowned with success on the 22d of May, 
 1842, by the discovery of one of the most extensive and 
 interesting caves in the world, and which now bears his 
 name. 
 
 Although nature had formed the cave countless cen- 
 turies ago, she had also almost completely closed it for 
 the first three-fourths of a mile with clay, gravel, rocks, &c., 
 the largest part of which was done by the action of water 
 alone. To remove this obstruction by the pick, shovel and 
 barrow would be the work of an age. But Howe, whose 
 capital consisted jDrincipally in genius, energy and persever- 
 ance, only used the pick, drill and barrow to loosen the 
 obstructions, and then closed the side water passages above, 
 thus causing the water to again resume its labor and 
 remove from the cave the same material it had so rudely 
 deposited ages ago, and reveal to man for the first time this 
 great subterranean passage, where for unknown ages nature 
 and nature's work lay hid in night. 
 
 The hill into which the Cave passes, fronts nearly to the 
 southeast, and rises by perpendicular heights, terraces and 
 steep tuclined planes to the height of about ninety feet in 
 about the same distance. 
 
 The main Cave, as far as it has been explored, is almost 
 wholly embraced by two strata of lime rock, its lower por- 
 2 
 
10 
 
 tion passing through a strata of cement or water lime rock, 
 and the upper portion through a strata of peutamerous lime 
 rock. In a few places the upper portion of the Gave just 
 passes through the pentamerous lime rock into the delthyrus 
 strata. 
 
 The majority of the branch or side caves are in the same 
 strata as the lower portion of the main Cave, but several of 
 the branch caves are wholly in the pentamerous strata and 
 only a few in the delthyrus strata. 
 
 The direction of the main Cave varies from north to 
 northwest, but the branches pass in all directions. 
 
 The strata through which the Cave passes, dips slightly 
 to the south. 
 
 The water always flows towards the entrance of the main 
 cave, but the whole of it is discharged by the side passages 
 except during the high water of spring. 
 
 High water is seldom sustained more than a day or two 
 at a time, except during the floods of spring. 
 
 Almost the whole of the water is furnished by caverns 
 which are now too much filled with gravel to follow for a 
 long distance, but that it passes through caves for many 
 miles, is evident as the cold water of spring is raised to the 
 temperature of 48 f h. before it reaches the traversable por- 
 tion of the Cave. 
 
 The temperature of the air is said to be uniformly at 48 f h. 
 at the distance of half a mile from the entrance at all times 
 of the year. 
 
 One interesting phenomenon connected with this Cave is 
 the strong currents of air which blow in different directions 
 at different times, and which is subject to annual and often 
 to diurnal changes. 
 
 During the warm season of the year, when the tempera- 
 ture out of the Cave is higher than within, the current 
 blows out, but during the cold season when the air out of 
 the Cave is colder than within, the current blows into the 
 <;ave, and the rule which applies to seasons of the year also 
 govern the daily changes of the wind in the Cave. 
 
11 
 
 It is by this natural to and fro current of wind that the 
 air in the Cave is always fresh and wholesome. 
 
 The best time for visiting the Oave is from May till Octo- 
 ber and from December till February. 
 
 Generally, within these periods, the visitor may pass over 
 three miles and return without being wet by a drop of 
 water. It may, also, be frequently visited at other times 
 of the year with but little inconvenience from water. 
 
 Having now obtained some general ideas of Howe's 
 Cave, let us now prepare for a visit ; and, first, the gentle- 
 men are furnished with a pair of overalls, a loose coat and 
 a hat, and the ladies with pants, a bloomer coat, shoes and 
 hat, and all with lamps so hung in gimbals that when we 
 are lost in amazement and silent rapture and the lamps for- 
 gotten, they will still stand upright. 
 
 Being now equipped according to the law of custom and 
 convenience, let us now pass down two or three flights of 
 stairs in the Oave House to the entrance of the Gave, and 
 think for a moment of passing for miles into the bowels of 
 the earth and hundreds of feet below the forests and fields, 
 where darkness reigns supreme and death to vegetation 
 holds her silent court. 
 
 The entrance to Howe's Oave (fig. 1), for the first few 
 rods, is about twelve feet in height, with an averge width 
 of about eight or nine feet. The floor is very even and 
 gently ascending for the first sixty rods or more. After 
 passing about four rods we come to an irregularly shaped 
 notch (fig. 2) on the left, at the further end of which is a 
 cave which varies very much in depth at different years, 
 owing to the amount of gravel deposited or removed by the 
 spring floods. This cave is noted for the immense amount 
 of barytes it formerly furnished for adulteration of whitelead. 
 
 Immediately beyond this notch we come to a door D, 
 which is about six feet square and opens directly into 
 
 THE SUBTEEEANEA]!^ LEOTUEE EOOM (Fig. 3), 
 Where the Oave suddenly expands in height from six to ten 
 feet, and in width from six to thirty-five or forty, which con- 
 
12 
 
 tinues for about one hundred feet, where it begins to contract, 
 which continues to the entrance of Washington Hall, where 
 it is six feet in height and eight in width. The floor of this 
 room is very flat and even, as is also the top, with the excep- 
 tion of a notch which is about twelve feet wide and eighteen 
 or twenty in height. This notch extends across the Gave 
 on the right, and forms a cave (fig. 4) which extends twenty- 
 five or thirty rods. 
 
 This side cave has a few guards in the shape of stalag- 
 mites, which give no passes to the corpulent. 
 
 This room is sometimes used as a temporary storehouse 
 for the deposit of hydraulic cement which is being hauled 
 from the cave bej^ond. 
 
 But the most remarkable item to be noted in connection 
 with this room, is the occasional appearance of a half-invisi- 
 ble being who styles himself king of this subterranean 
 world, and who ever and anon addresses his alien visitors 
 by some brief discourse pertaining to his dominions. 
 
 At one time the following scene occurred : The room 
 contained groups of ladies and gentlemen from almost all 
 parts of the upper world. 
 
 Each group with its standard bearer, and each individual 
 with his gimbal lamp in hand, and all wrapped in the habi- 
 liments of cave attire, x)resented at once a scene unique 
 yet strangely enchanting. 
 
 Here stood groups of Albanians and Trojans, with their 
 merchants and mechanics and artizaus, and nearby a group 
 of the Cohosians and others from the regions of the north. 
 Conspicuous in the crowd, are groups from the Empire City 
 and her suburbs, representing almost every department of 
 business. 
 
 Conspicuous in the crowd is the standard of the Boston- 
 ians, and i^eople from the hundred New England villages. 
 
 Suddenly we see a number of standards raise in the groups 
 from the cities and villages of the States of I^ew York and 
 Pennsylvania, each as if to say, we too are here on a visit 
 to your empire. 
 
 Here are standards from the Green Isle and their neigh- 
 
13 
 
 bors, even to the continent beyond, and from our own western 
 world we find re]3reseutatives from Ohio to Oregon and 
 California, l^ow we see a group from, the sunny south, who 
 to evade the sweltering heat peculiar to their clime, have 
 come here where nature seems exhaustless in the variety and 
 grandeur of her works, and where the never changing tem- 
 perature of this subterranean world fans a cooling breeze 
 to the southerner in summer and a warm breeze to the 
 northerner in winter. 
 
 Further in the dim distance we find the Canadian, who, 
 unable to quench his thirst for the wonderful by the world- 
 renowned Falls of Magara, has come here to obtain his fill. 
 
 Amid this scene the king of this subterranean world 
 appeared an(f addressed the crowd as follows : 
 
 My alien friends from all jjarts of the world above, I 
 always welcome your visits through my dominions. My 
 country, no less than yours, abounds in strange and wonder- 
 ful things. Whether you look above or below, to the right 
 or to the left, every scene is a page in the natural history of 
 my empire, but whether you are to read a page or a volume 
 Is a problem to be solved only by your own close attention 
 and study. Knowledge here, no less than in your world, is 
 the result of self labor and thought, which no babbling pen 
 can supply, and the only possession you can truly and em- 
 phatically call your own. Open then your eyes that you 
 may see and understand, and thus obtain the trophies by 
 which you will be surrounded in your journey through every 
 part of my empire. Take them to the land of your domicile 
 and there bear in mind that your torch will shine none the 
 less bright from having lighted your neighbors. 
 
 While journeying here, cast a lynx eye upon all things as 
 you pass, and ask how and why. 
 
 Do you see my heavens rise in height beyond where 
 light can dart its glimmering ray, ask how came it so. 
 
 Or, Alp on Alp ascend beyond where vision's misty rays 
 extend, ask what made it there. 
 
 Or, round my mountain in some solid rock or junior cave, 
 ask what office does or has it filled. 
 
14 
 
 Or, in mj Harlem tnnucl, a liue more even, straight and 
 true than ere your boasted Gu^'TEl^ ever drew, ask how 
 came it so. 
 
 Or, in some gorgeous room, where walls are made to echo 
 sound as if from heaven the voices came on mercy's errand 
 down, ask who first designed reflecting walls. 
 
 Or, in my statelj^ music rooms, where walls are just so 
 formed that every sound is music, ask where in all nature 
 first the music halls were formed. 
 
 Your people of the upper world carried from my empire 
 your first conceptions of habitations, your catacombs and 
 sepulchres, your places of worship and dungeons. 
 
 It is here that you first bowed to the shrine of your deity 
 and offered prayers of adoration to the Infinite Being. It 
 is here that your first conceptions of architecture were 
 formed, both in outline and detail. It is here that you first 
 conceived of a pedestal, a base, a shaft, a capital, or pu 
 entablature, and countless centuries ere the pendant twigs 
 of your willow marked in outline the gothic arch or the foli- 
 age of the acanthus, the volute all were prefigured in my 
 empir3. 
 
 Boast ye not of antiquity, boast ye not of unborrowed 
 conceptions. Pass on in your journey, and gather gear by 
 every wile that's justified by honor. 
 
 Here the crowd passed on to the next department, 
 which is 
 
 WASHINGTON" HALL (Fig. 5), 
 
 'N^Tiere the cave suddenly expands in height from six to 
 twenty-five feet, and in width from eight to twenty-five feet 
 or more. The arch of this room ascends a little for the first 
 twelve or fifteen rods, where it begins to descend gradually 
 to the Chapel. The floor ascends more rapidly towards the 
 further end of the hall. The sides show decided water-worn 
 marks, almost to the top for nearly the whole length, but 
 this has disappeared ; in the top it has now become more 
 rough and uneven, which is just the beginning of the de- 
 stroying hand of time. 
 
15 
 
 Turning to the right, we ascend about sixteen feet by two 
 flight of stairs, which land us directly in the 
 
 BEIDAL OHAMBEE (Fig. 6), 
 Where many a nuptial knot has been tied, including the 
 two daughters of the discoverer. 
 
 This chamber is about nine feet in height, sixteen in 
 width, and twenty-five in length. Here, for the first, is seen 
 a few stalactites, which are described by the guides as 
 "Washington's epaulet, another as Lady Washington's 
 hood, and another as the statue of Washington, &c. 
 
 Kear the further end of this room we find, on the right, a 
 double conical cavity or chamber extending upwards to the 
 height of thirty feet, which is partly filled with stalagmite 
 deposit. Just beyond this we come to a door which opens 
 directly into the 
 
 WINE EOOM, 
 
 Which is about eight feet in height, ten in width, and six- 
 teen in length, and embraces a large stone cistern of clear 
 water, and a store-room for replenishing the stone counter 
 with wine, &c., for the guests of the bridal chamber. 
 
 On retracing our steps to the foot of the stairs, we find 
 upon our right a wide cave (fig. 7), which is nearly filled 
 with gravel, which the fioods of spring are gradually 
 removing. This cave has been explored only about thirty 
 rods, and contains some very high chambers. 
 
 On passing along Washington Hall, we find high clay 
 banks on either side, and are shown some stalactites and 
 their close resemblance to human beings clearly pointed 
 out, all dressed in the habiliments of nudity ; one of these 
 is called the Daughter of the Cave. Also some indurated 
 clay formations, which exactly resemble cakes fresh from the 
 baker's oven. Passing along we come to a cave on the 
 right (fig. 8) called the Old Cave, which enters the main 
 cave at fig. 13. It is through this cave that thousands 
 passed annually for three years to the main cave beyond 
 the chapel. Near the entrance of this cave we descend 
 about six feet, where we find a wide cave on the right,. 
 
16 
 
 wLicli passes under the main cave at fig. 9. This cave is 
 sometimes nearlj^ filled with gravel by the floods of spring, 
 and perhaps the next it is removed. 
 
 From the foot of this descent the Old Cave is about three 
 feet high, and from three to six in width, and is smooth and 
 water-worn almost its whole length. The bottom of this 
 cave is broken through in two places into what appears to 
 be caves passing below, and which is now filled with gravel. 
 
 There is one place in this cave where the sound of falling 
 water can be distinctly heard by applying the ear close to 
 the bottom, indicating beyond a doubt that a cave and a 
 stream of water jjasses below. 
 
 Retracing our steps to the main cave, we soon come to a 
 cave on the left called the New Cave (fig. 10), which has 
 been recently discovered by the settling of a clay bank. 
 This branch has been explored about twenty rods, and con- 
 tains some high chambers and bottomless pits. On leaving 
 Washington Hall we come to 
 
 THE CHAPEL (Fig. 11). 
 
 Here the cave suddenly expands in height from six to 
 forty feet, and in width from six to twenty-five feet or more, 
 and at the distance of about a hundred feet contracts to six 
 or seven feet in height and width. Immediately on enter- 
 ing the Chapel, we ascend some rather steep stone steps to 
 the top of the hill, which is just beyond the center of the 
 room. Here, on looking high over head and to the right, 
 we find a rock of immense size projecting into the Chapel, 
 called by the guides the Rostrum. 
 
 Turning now in the direction of the main cave, on look- 
 ing high into the region of darkness, we see an overhead 
 cave, fig. 12 (indicated by the dotted lines), which is about 
 three feet in diameter, which continues about twenty feet, 
 where it descends six feet, and increases in height to from 
 six to twelve feet. Just at the foot of the descent, we find 
 a cave on the left, c, which is about six feet wide. The 
 main overhead cave passes over the main cave for several 
 rods and then leaves it from the right hand side. At the 
 
17 
 
 distance of about thirty rods we find some high conical 
 chambers. The walls of this cave are almost completely 
 covered with stalactite formations. This cave is only 
 accessible by a long ladder, which makes it an undesirable 
 place for the general visitor. 
 
 On leaving the chapel, we pass down some steep, rocky 
 steps to the foot of the hill, where we come to 
 
 HAELEM TUI^NEL (Fig. 14). 
 
 Here, on the right, we find the upper end of the old cave 
 (fig. 13). The first portion of this tunnel is a straight, level 
 portion of the cave, which is about twelve feet wide at the 
 bottom, a little narrower at the top, and about seven feet 
 high. This is probably the upper portion of a high cave, 
 the lower portion being filled with clay, stone, &c. After 
 passing a few rods, the visitor is desired to stop while the 
 guides go a long distance in advance to show the straight 
 and even walls of the tunnel, which scarcely varies from a 
 straight line in the distance of nearly thirty rods; but 
 beyond this the walls become more uneven and the top of 
 the cave lower. 
 
 On the left side we find a round tube (fig. 15), for the 
 discharge of water through the side of the cave, and a cor- 
 responding notch in the top of the cave, which on passing, 
 we come to the next department, which is 
 
 OATAEAOT HALL (Fig. 16), 
 Which received its name from the continued murmuring 
 sound of falling water, which runs through the square tube 
 (fig. 17) in the left side of the cave and falls into one of the 
 bottomless pits. This hall is from seven to twelve feet in 
 height above the clay which fills the lower portion of the 
 cave, and which, when washed out, will reveal one of the 
 rooms well calculated to excite wonder and admiration. 
 The walls are more or less water-worn and even. A stream 
 of water fiows on the right, which is crossed near the mid- 
 dle of the hall. IS^ear the further end of this hall, the cave 
 widens on the right side and terminates rather abruptly, 
 
 3 
 
18 
 
 the passage being on tlie extreme left. From the right, in 
 the corner of the wide portion of the cave, a side cave 
 (fig. 18) passes to the distance of several rods, where it 
 becomes iilled with clay. On passing into the narrow por- 
 tion of the cave, on the left, we come to the 
 
 POOL OF SILOAM (Fig. 19), 
 
 Which is from seven to twelve feet in height and width. 
 The sides and top are water-worn and often smooth. A 
 stream of water flows on the left. Here we find ourselves 
 among arches and cavities of almost every size and descrip- 
 tion, and which are likened to almost everything. The 
 guides point out the Giant's Spectacles, the Iron Kettle and 
 the Wash Basin, while neighbor x>lowman sees the exact 
 imprint of the face and horns of his favorite ox, the one he 
 has so often driven o'er the lea, and Lady Lynx-eye finds a 
 dozen figures in pantomime. 
 
 On leaving the Pool of Siloam we come to 
 
 THE INDIAl!T STONE LADDEE (Fig. 20), 
 
 Which consists of some well laid stone steps which lead to 
 the top of a hill of rocks, where, on our left, on looking 
 over a low stone wall, we find a i)it (fig. 21) five or six feet 
 in width and about twelve feet in length, which the guides 
 tell you has no lower end. This pit seems to consist of a 
 portion of rock sei)arated by fracture, and gone where? 
 Into a giant cave below. Here, with lamp in hand, the 
 visitor will often gaze over the wall into the depths of 
 impenetrable darkness, and wonder and ask if it is really 
 bottomless, and, perhaps, now, for the first in life, realize 
 the danger of the pit with no bottom. 
 
 Turning now to the right hand side of the main cave, we 
 find a cave (fig. 22) leaving the main cave at right angles. 
 This cave is about three feet high at its entrance, but 
 increases in height as it goes in. 
 
 After advancing four or five rods we come to some large 
 stalactitic formations, one of which is six feet in diameter 
 and twenty feet in height, and which is strangely broken 
 
19 
 
 off t.ud displaced, called by the guides the Tower of Babel 
 (fig. 23). This cave is probably the extreme upper portion 
 of a high cave, the bottom being filled with clay, the top of 
 which forms the path. 
 
 Eetracing our steps to the main cave, we pass down the 
 hill at the foot of which we find 
 
 FEANKLIl^ AYENUE (Fig. 24). 
 
 Turning now to our left, we find a cave (fig. 25) leading 
 to the further end of the bottomless pit, near which it is 
 now obstructed by a wall, except for the passage of water. 
 
 This avenue, we are told by the guides, was once the resi- 
 dence of Fkanklik^, and that this world can boast of its 
 celebrities as well as the world above. This avenue pre- 
 sents a great variety of views. The walls are often water- 
 worn smooth but not even. One person sees port-holes, 
 shot-holes, &c., and likens it to the inside of some ship of 
 war, while another person sees cradles, milk-pans and demi- 
 johns, all of which are in the arch of the Gave, and of 
 course empty ; but the guides inform you with much 
 gravity, that when the earth rolls over, all these utensils will 
 be right side up. The guides point out William Penn's 
 monument, hat, &e. 
 
 Near the further end of this avenue we find a large sta- 
 lagmite (fig. 26) six or seven feet in diameter, which just 
 fills a cave, except in height. This cave is probably the 
 upper portion of a high cave which is now almost com- 
 pletely obstructed by clay, and the depth of the stalagmite 
 below the path is not known- 
 
 On passing this stalagmite, we ascend some steps which 
 land us in the next department, which is 
 
 FLOOD HALL (Fig. 27). 
 
 This hall is from eight to twelve feet in height and width. 
 The walls are not very even, and the clay is of an undeter- 
 mined depth. 
 
 On leaving this we come to 
 
20 
 
 CONGRESS HALL (Fig. 28), 
 TMiere the Ctave is from twelve to eighteen feet in height 
 and width. The walls are generally even and often water- 
 worn smooth. The stream flows first on the right and then 
 on the left. Almost the whole of this room is well adapted 
 for public speaking. 
 
 Here, for the first, sounds reflect so as to become musical. 
 Here, for the first, the visitor often thoughtlessly begins his 
 musical strains, and gazing and stopping, and marching to 
 the tune, he at length arrives at the further end of the hall 
 where the Cave widens on the right, which is called the 
 
 GHOST EOOM, OR HAUNTED CASTLE (Fig. 29). 
 
 This room is upon a clay bank which is probably from ten 
 to twenty feet deep. 
 
 At the right-hand corner we find a branch cave (fig. 30), 
 w^hich is of some interest, as it shows the decomposition of 
 the rock in a striking manner. This room, like the hall we 
 have passed, is musical, but has that peculiar formation 
 which fits it for the reflection of sound from and to certain 
 l)laces with peculiar force, and to some extent from all 
 places. Let a person place himself in one of the niches 
 (fig. 31) and utter sounds while the listener is standing in 
 front, and he will find difliculty in telling its source, while 
 if he steps a little to the right the sound appears to proceed 
 from overhead. 
 
 Here the visitor often calls and listens for departed spirits ; 
 here he invokes the gods to listen to his wants ; but here, as 
 in the upper world, the prayers of the faithless are heeded 
 not. 
 
 Having now become slightly acquainted with reflected 
 and musical sounds, let us proceeed to the next department, 
 which is 
 
 MUSIC HALL (Fig. 32), 
 
 Where every sound is music, and where he now sings who 
 
 never sung before, and who after leaving never utters more. 
 
 This hall is from twenty to thirty feet in width, and from 
 
 fifteen to twenty-five in height. The floor is level and even 
 
21 
 
 till near the further end, where it becomes somewhat rocky. 
 The sides and especially the arch, present a great variety of 
 cavities and smooth, contorted surfaces which front in all 
 directions, and which seems to favor the reflection of sound. 
 A pistol fired in this hall sounds like a heavy piece of artil- 
 lery, and reverberates a long time. 
 
 J^ear the further end we find two large stalagmites on 
 the right (fig. 33), which are from ten to twelve feet in 
 diameter, and near by a naturally formed column of cement 
 rock, which seems to support a world of rock above. 
 
 A small stream meanders along the whole length of this 
 hall, which has its fountain in the 
 
 STYGIA:N^ lake (Fig. 34). 
 
 This lake is nearly one-fourth of a mile in length, and is 
 scarcely less in size or less musical than the room we have 
 just passed, but all else how changed. 
 
 The rocky terra firma has here given way to a long deep 
 sheet of water, and our pedestrian pilgrimage has changed 
 to boating. 
 
 The smooth water-worn contorted surfaces of Music Hall 
 have disappeared, and the roof and the rocky walls are now 
 draped with stalactites which assume a thousand different 
 forms, and in which a person of even a slightly imagina- 
 tive turn of mind, can find not only the prototype of the 
 whole vegetable and animal world in whole and in parts, 
 but the works of art included. 
 
 The water is from two to sixteen feet deep, and is remark- 
 able for its transparency, the bottom being plainly seen by 
 lamp light even where several feet deep. 
 
 This lake is crossed by a boat of sufficient capacity to 
 carry ten or twelve persons with convenience, and twenty 
 or more persons may ride with safety and but little incon- 
 venience. 
 
 The boat lying now in wait, let us embark for Plymouth 
 Eock (tig.35), and as we pass ever and anon stop and gaze 
 and wonder. Just ahead on the right, the guides point out a 
 larger stalactite hapging from the roof called the Harp, which 
 
22 
 
 beloDgs to tlie Lady of the Lake, and wliich on being gently 
 struck with a stick, emits musical sounds, which vary accord- 
 ing to the i>lace struck. On our right we find high clay 
 banks, which are often covered with stalactitic formations. 
 
 Near the center of the lake on the left, we are shown a 
 stalagmite called the Lady of the Lake, and near the further 
 end a large stalagmite on the right called the Church Organ. 
 
 Just bej^ond this we come to the wharf which leads 
 directly to 
 
 PLYIMOUTH EOOK (Fig. 35), 
 
 Where we soon find our passage obstructed by a large 
 stalagmite (fig. 36), which, not satisfied to just fill the cave 
 from top to bottom, it extends in its length. 
 
 Upon this stalagmite, as upon many other parts of the 
 cave, we find the initials of many a visitor chiseled on 
 marble. 
 
 Turning now to our left we come to a ladder by which 
 we ascend about eight feet, to the threshold of 
 
 THE DEVIL'S GANGWAY (Fia. 37). 
 
 This gangway is a cave about three feet in diameter, 
 passing around the large stalagmite, and enters the main 
 cave beyond, where we come to 
 
 THE MUSEUM (Fig. 38). 
 
 This room is from eighteen to twenty feet in height and 
 width. The Stygian river flows first on the right and then 
 on the left. 
 
 This museum has a liberal supply of specimens, and 
 althougli more ancient than Barnum's, is still deficient in 
 one specimen, for which the whole caA^e emi)ire has been 
 searched in vain, a specimen which plays so important a 
 j)art in the affairs of the upper world, and flourishes only in 
 barren soils where needed. This specimen is called Hum- 
 bug. 
 
 On leaving this room at the foot of a hill we come to 
 
23 
 
 THE GEOLOGICAL "BOOMS (Fig. 39). 
 This room is generally liiglier and wider .tban tlie room 
 we have just j)assed, and the top is generally more even 
 and studded with stalagmites. A large part of this room 
 has a floor of stiff clay, the depth of which I have no very 
 definite idea. The next room we come to is 
 
 UI^OLE TOM'S OABm (Fig. 40), 
 Which is a short exj)ansion of the Cave in height and width 
 for less than a hundred feet, and, although unimportant in 
 size, nature has here engraved in bas-relief one of the most 
 important events in the history of the upper world, which 
 consists of Uncle Tom and his funeral attendants in pro- 
 cession. So say the guides. 
 
 On leaving this room we come to 
 
 THE GIANT'S STUDY (Fig. 41), 
 In which the arch of the Cave is rather more elevated than 
 the room we have just passed, hut the floor is more rocky 
 and uneven. Here we find some large rocks rather 
 strangely arranged by the hand of nature, one of which is 
 called, by the guides, the Speaker's Stand, another the 
 Writing Table, another the Book, in which is recorded the 
 history of the Cave, and all things connected with it, and 
 when we take into consideration that it is a specimen of a 
 strata in which there is entombed more than a hundred 
 different petrifications, we find some truth in the assertion 
 of the guides, whether so intended or not. 
 From this we pass into 
 
 GIAKT'S E^UESEEY (Fig. 42), 
 Which is from ten to sixteen feet in height and width. 
 Here the guides point out tables, bathing-tubs and cradles, 
 in short, a copious sui)ply of implements suited to this de- 
 partment, nearly all of which are in the arch of the cave. 
 From this we pass into 
 
 THE PIRATE'S OAYE (Fig. 43), 
 Which commences at the large stalagmite on the left, called 
 
24 
 
 by the guides the Hottentot's Tent, with the juveniles 
 playing on the top; the juveniles being the small stalag- 
 mites on the large one. This room extends to the foot of 
 the Eocky Mountains, and contains many arches and 
 columns formed of the natural rock. A stream of water 
 flows on the left, which is crossed at the foot of 
 
 THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS (Fig. 44). 
 "Which is the next place on our line of march. 
 
 These mountains afford the most wonderful scenery to be 
 found in the whole subterranean world. Here we find piles 
 upon piles of gigantic rock thrown together in the most 
 promiscuous manner. 
 
 Here we find stalagmites, the growth of eternal centuries, 
 broken and sharing in the common confusion. Here one is 
 forced to doubt the truth of the assertion of Pope, where 
 he says. 
 
 Order is heaven's first law. 
 
 On climbing up these mountains we come to a large bro- 
 ken stalagmite called the Leaning Tower of Pisa, of which 
 the one at Pisa is a very perfect imitation. On advancing 
 a little further we come to some large stalagmites on the left, 
 which are from twelve to sixteen feet in diameter, and 
 whose base is supposed to be on the same plane as the 
 mountains above whose pinnacle they tower. One of these 
 is called the Elephant's Back, and which is often a resting 
 place for the weary i)ilgrim. 
 
 Here the Bloomers often request the animal to go, but he 
 don't ; they urge him to go, but he don't ; they command 
 him to go, but he, like some of his riders, the more he's 
 urged the more he won't, so our pedestrian journey must 
 be resumed, and on traveling a short distance we halt a 
 moment, when, lo ! our whole heavens are at once lighted 
 up by the red light which extends our vision distinctly into 
 all the regions of si^ace, both in the heavens above and in 
 the mountains around, and which can only be appreciated 
 by being seen." After passing a few rods we come to what 
 the guides call the Mermaid, which seems to be strangely 
 out of place. A pilgrim probably. 
 
25 
 
 On passing down tlie mountains, we go under and be- 
 tween a huge pile of rocks (fig. 45), which are wedged in 
 between the sides of the Gave, at the foot of which we 
 come to one low, short place where (humiliating as it may 
 be) the upper tens must decidedly bow. 
 
 On passing this low, narrow place, we come to a depart- 
 ment which bears the name of one who reigned almost 
 three thousand years ago, which is 
 
 THE YALLEY OF JEHOSAPHAT (Fig. 46). 
 
 This valley is from eight to twelve feet in width, and in 
 height one is forced to think of the pine-tree tops told of by 
 TcrppER, or some one, who says, too high to be seen except 
 by the stars. Along our left, high up in the region of dark- 
 ness, may be seen a kind of projecting rock called the 
 Table Eock, which is accessible over and through the de- 
 tached mass of rock in the mountains we have just passed ; 
 but this is never visited except by those of the Blondin 
 type. The floor is full of rocks, which are unevenly distrib- 
 uted ; sometimes you rise some sharp pinnacle, then go to 
 the extreme left or right, then down or across the stream 
 which meanders among the rocks for the whole distance, 
 which is over one-fourth of a mile. 
 
 In this valley may be seen fragments of large stalagmites, 
 which some unknown force has broken and distributed in 
 various i3laces, and the corroding action of the water in 
 destroying them is plainly to be seen. 
 
 This valley terminates where the Cave divides into three 
 divisions ; the right-hand division, being the most interest- 
 ing division, is next to be noticed, and is called 
 
 THE WINDING WAY (Fig. 47). 
 The arrow indicates its direction from the main cave. 
 Here again, more than ever, it seems that nature is 
 exhaustless in the variety and grandeur of her works ; here 
 the scenery is entirely unlike anything we have heretofore 
 seen. Separate the skull bones of an animal where it is 
 joined by sutures, and you get an idea of the ground view 
 4 
 
26 
 
 of its windings. In width it is from two to four feet, and 
 in lieiglit from three to twenty feet. The walls are often 
 covered with stalactitic formations, most of which are per- 
 fectly white or translucent. Here we find a few bridges of 
 stalactitic formation. In length it is about one-fourth of a 
 mile. After having passed about two-thirds the distance, 
 we come to where a large triangular rock is broken out on 
 the right hand side, and gone perhaps thirty feet below the 
 clay path on which you walk. The large cavity thus formed 
 is called the Sitting Eoom (fig. 48), where we all take a rest 
 and chat about the wonders of the past journey, each call- 
 ing to mind something peculiar which had escaped the 
 notice of all the rest. Here we all blow out our lights, and 
 at once appreciate darkness. Here we all try to keei) 
 perfectly still one whole minute, and find it a long period 
 of silence. Here the muscular system often begins to cave 
 in. Here is the x^lace where the back track is usually 
 taken. 
 
 On pursuing our course to the end of Winding Way, 
 we find, low down on the right, a round hole (fig. 49), about 
 the size of a barrel, which enlarges after a few feet and 
 leads to 
 
 THE EOTUN^DA (Fig. 50), 
 Which consists of a high, round chamber, the height of 
 which has never been measured. 
 
 GENERAL EEMAEKS. 
 
 There is good reason to believe that the water-worn rock 
 bottom of this cave is not to be seen for more than one- 
 twentieth of the Avhole distance traveled, the lower portion 
 being filled with clay, which is sometimes mixed with stones 
 of various sizes. In mauj' places clay banks may be seen 
 extending up either one or both sides of the cave, sometimes 
 to the height of eighteen feet. 
 
 Generally we have no means of ascertaining the depth of 
 these clay deposits, but that it is over thirty feet deep in 
 some places is almost certain. Frequently we see the 
 stream, which runs along close to the side of the cave, wash 
 
27 
 
 away the clay ten feet below the path on which you walk, 
 without any sign of a rock bottom. So that generally it 
 may be considered that in walking through this cave we 
 are near its upper portion. In a few places we pass where 
 the bottom seems to consist of loose rock which fell cen- 
 turies ago from the arch of the cave, and which now give 
 it that pointed form of the arch which, at first sight, seems 
 to bid defiance to any further destruction by the hand of 
 time. 
 
 The branch or side eaves are, with few exceptions, more 
 or less filled with clay, and it is probable that some of the 
 branch caves are, in reality, larger than the main cave is 
 above the clay which fills the lower portion. In fact, there 
 is good reason to believe, that what are now called branch 
 caves are, in reality, much the oldest. 
 
 From a general view of. Winding Way and its junction, 
 with the high valley of Jehosaphat, there is good reason 
 to believe that its real rock bottom is at least twenty feet 
 below the clay path. 
 
 There are several branch caves which are almost com- 
 pletely filled with clay, which are not noted in the illustration, 
 and it is probable that many more will be discovered as the 
 clay is washed out of the sides by the floods of spring, and 
 as the clay which fills the lower portion is removed, it is 
 probable that they will increase both in size and number. 
 
 There are no fish in the waters of this Oave, excei)t such 
 as have been carried there for a new abode, and which are 
 said to flourish for a season, but leave during the floods of 
 spring for a climate more congenial to their nature. 
 
 During the fall and winter months large numbers of bats 
 resort here to hibernate and, like Shakspeake's toad, to 
 fatten on the vapors of a dungeon, till the warmth of spring 
 in the upper world is suited to their wants. 
 
 They may often be seen hanging to the side of the Cave 
 in clusters of several dozen, each clinging to his neighbor 
 like bees at the time of swarming. 
 
 In some places there are small patches of mud which 
 
28 
 
 swarm with the common fish-worm which seems to be 
 acclimated here. 
 
 This Cave does not abound in the bones of animals ; 
 only one skeleton was ever found more than a mile from its 
 entrance, and this the bones of a bear, which were procured 
 for the Smithsonian Institution at Washington. 
 
A DESCRIPTION 
 
 HOWE'S GAVE; 
 
 WITH A POI'ULAH TREATISE ON THE 
 
 FORMATION OF CAVES IN LIME ROCK, 
 
 FROM THE SIZE OF A QUILL TO A MAMMOTH. 
 
 Jliustrateb tnitli Numerous (Ettgraoings. 
 
 ALBANY : 
 
 WEED, PARSONS AND COMPANY, PRIN'i" 
 
 1865. 
 
LBJelO 
 
 ^