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MY RUSSIAN AND 
 TURKISH JOURNALS 
 
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MY RUSSIAN AND 
 TURKISH JOURNALS 
 
 BY THE DOWAGER MARCHIONESS 
 OF DUFFERIN AND AVA 
 
 AUTHOR OF "our VICEREGAL LIFE IN INDIA," "MY CANADIAN JOURNAL," ETC. 
 
 WITH ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 
 
 597-599 FIFTH AVENUE 
 
 1916 
 
3? 
 
 /7 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^^^^^ 
 
PREFACE 
 
 The first of these journal letters; addressed to my 
 Mother, was written thirty-seven and the last thirty- 
 two years ago. 
 
 These years represent a very long time in the life of 
 a person, but a very short time in the history of a 
 country, and yet between the years 1879 and 191 6 
 very great changes have taken place in the countries 
 mentioned in these pages. And although I only tell 
 of the social life in our Embassies, and of my own 
 personal experiences, and make no pretence of writing 
 a book about Russia or Turkey, my readers cannot 
 but realise that times are greatly changed since these 
 letters were written. 
 
 ' When we were in Russia a dark cloud of Anarchism 
 hung over her chief cities, unrest and discontent were 
 spoken of on all sides ; while now the enthusiastic 
 patriotism of her people, their self-sacrifice, their 
 dogged perseverance, and their serious and reverent 
 attitude towards life, fill us with admiration. We 
 rejoice in her strength and are proud of our great Ally. 
 
 Turkey, alas I is now our enemy, but it is impossible 
 not to have a kindly feeling for a country in which 
 one has spent a happy time, and I am glad to believe 
 that Turkish soldiers fight " like gentlemen," and 
 that they treat their prisoners with humanity. 
 
 I had special opportunities of knowing how terribly 
 their women and children suffered in the last Balkan 
 War : I can well imagine how sad must be their 
 condition now, and I think of them with the greatest 
 pity. 
 
 It was a very much brighter Turkey I knew, even 
 though it was reigned over by Abdul Hamid. 
 
 This account of life in our Embassies is altogether 
 one-sided; the business part of it is entirely left out. 
 No mention is made in it of diplomatic pourparlers, 
 
vi PREFACE 
 
 of despatches, of telegrams sent and received, or of 
 the current business of which there is so much both 
 in Russia and Turkey ; nor have I told of the days and 
 nights spent by the Chancery in ciphering and de- 
 ciphering the communications which pass between the 
 Foreign Office and His Majesty's Ambassadors. 
 
 Indeed, I feel that I owe an apology to the members 
 of our Embassies for so completely ignoring the 
 laborious side of Diplomacy. 
 
 I trust that no one of those mentioned in this 
 journal will object to the inclusion of his name, or to 
 anything I have said of him. I look back with the 
 greatest gratitude to all the kindness and friendship 
 shown to us by those who shared our life in these 
 Embassies. The Ambassador and I always realised 
 how much we owed to the loyal support of " the 
 Chancery " in everything that we attempted to do. 
 
 Of the Ambassador himself I cannot write. The 
 work he did and all that he accomplished in the 
 various offices he held is told in other places, but from 
 the restricted point of view of this Journal I may add, 
 that in his home and social life the unusually great 
 gift of sympathy which he possessed enabled him to 
 enter into the joys and sorrows, the disappointments 
 or the plq^sures of those amongst whom he lived, 
 while his own powers of enjoyment and his desire 
 that all around him should be happy were the main- 
 spring of everything that was cheerful and socially 
 successful in our Embassies. 
 
 Although it is an anachronism, I have thought it 
 best to change the St. Petersburg of my journal to 
 " Petrograd," by which name we are already accus- 
 tomed to speak of that city. 
 
 I have to thank Susan, Countess of Malmesbury, 
 for allowing me to use some illustrations from Sir 
 John Ardagh's water-colour drawings, Miss Florence 
 Wyndham for some of her sketches, Major A. P. Black- 
 wood for photographs taken by him in Moscow, and 
 Baron Cyril Wrangel for permission to reproduce an 
 old print of Petrograd. By their kindness they have 
 greatly added to any interest this book may have. 
 Hariot Dufferin and Ava. 
 
CONTENTS 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 PAGB 
 
 BERLIN AND PETROGRAD .... I 
 
 CHAPTER n 
 
 THE WINTER AT PETROGRAD — MOSCOW . . 60 
 
 CHAPTER HI 
 
 OUR SECOND WINTER AT PETROGRAD BERLIN 
 
 EN ROUTE FOR CONSTANTINOPLE . . I08 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 WINTER ENTERTAINMENTS RETURN TO CON- 
 STANTINOPLE . . . . .181 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 ENTERTAINMENTS OUR JOURNEY UP THE NILE 
 
 LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE . . 263 
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE . . . . . - 321 
 
 INDEX 339 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 THE KREMLIN ...... Frontispiece 
 
 FACING PAGE 
 
 THE NEVA . 34 
 
 THE SACRED GATE 94 
 
 THE BRITISH EMBASSY, THERAPIA, BURNT DOWN 
 
 DECEMBER IQII 128 
 
 ST. SOPHIA . . . . . . . . 150 
 
 THE FRENCH EMBASSY, THERAPIA .... 166 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE, 1888 .... . . 188" 
 
 THE "lady HERMIONE" 2l6- 
 
 MOSQUE AND CITADEL, CAIRO, 1 887 .... 24O 
 
 KARNAK ......... 286 
 
 VIEW FROM THE GARDENS OF THE BRITISH EMBASSY, 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE 302 ' 
 
 BROUSSA 332 
 
 IX 
 
It is the Author's purpose to present the proceeds 
 of this book to War Charities. 
 
MY RUSSIAN AND TURKISH 
 JOURNALS 
 
 [Lord Dufferin left Canada at the end of the year 1878, and very 
 shortly after was appointed Ambassador to Russia. 
 
 He and I went there in February 1879, and returned home in May. 
 
 The Ambassador only remained in England a month and then went 
 back to Petrograd. 
 
 He was again in England in August, and intended to return to 
 Petrograd with me in November, but was detained by Lord Salis- 
 bury till December, when he rejoined me and the children. — H. D.] 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 BERLIN 
 
 Tuesday, February 2$th, 1879. — ^We reached Berlin at 
 10.30 p.m., and drove to the Kaiserhof Hotel. It is 
 very large and very comfortable, but we have entered 
 the region of stuffiness. The rooms are warmed with 
 hot air, and there are no fireplaces, and no slits in 
 the double windows such as we had in Canada, for 
 letting in a little ozone ! We shall be hardened to 
 this in Russia, I hear ! 
 
 Wednesday, 26th. — ^Weather, a wet snow falling. 
 Breakfast, substantial and good. View, cheerful ; a 
 large square, surrounded by handsome buildings, and 
 plenty of people scurrying about, to and from church, 
 I suppose (Ash Wednesday): from the other window 
 a street with a cab-stand in it, and a row of coach- 
 men in large cloth pelisses. 
 
 We had a little man to lunch, who has been sent 
 out by the English Government to value the furni- 
 
2 INVITATION TO THE PALACE [ch. i 
 
 ture in our Embassy. He talked so much that I 
 thought we should never get away, and when we did 
 escape we were too late for any sight-seeing, all 
 picture galleries, etc., being closed at three. 
 
 D. saw Lord Odo Russell in the morning, and we 
 both dined at the Embassy. Mr. and Mrs. Bering 
 and some Attaches were the only other people there. 
 I inquired about some of my duties from Lady 
 Odo, and find that my office will not be so easy as 
 it was in Canada. Lady Odo arranges and writes all 
 her own invitations, manages her house, and has 
 endless leaving of cards and visits to do. She is 
 also ** at home " every evening after four. 
 
 Thursday, 2'jth. — At breakfast I received a note 
 from " la Comtesse Perponcher, Grande Maitresse de 
 sa Majeste L'Imperatrice et Reine " to say that Her 
 Majesty will receive D. and me at a quarter to five 
 this afternoon, and that the audience will be followed 
 by a dinner with the Emperor and Empress.* A 
 card of invitation also came " Auf allerhochstem 
 Befehl Ihrer Kaiserlichen Majestaten beehrt sich 
 der unterzeichnete Oberhof und Haus Marschal'l 
 seine Exc?ellenz Lord und Lady DufFerin zu einem 
 Diner am 27. Feb. 1879, um 5 Uhr, im Koniglichen 
 Palais einzuladen. Anzug : Uniform." I have written 
 to ask Lady Odo what dress is worn at these early 
 dinners. 
 
 D. and I took a walk in the town, and were much 
 disappointed with the shops ; they are very poor. The 
 streets were wet and slippery, the houses dripped upon 
 one, and piles of snow were swept up to the pavement. 
 
 On our return I had a pleasant visit from Lady 
 Odo Russell, and before she left D. came in from 
 Prince Bismarck's. D. was delighted with him, and 
 came to tell me that the Prince was coming to see 
 me I It was 3,30 p.m., and I had to start for the 
 * William I and the Empress Augusta. 
 
l879] PRINCE BISMARCK 3 
 
 palace in an hour, so I felt rather alarmed lest my 
 time for dressing should be cut short. I waited a 
 little, and then had my hair done, waited longer, and 
 then in despair began to put on my evening dress ; 
 but he arrived while my maid was still lacing and 
 " tying back." It was broad daylight, so I put on 
 a long fur cloak, and went in to receive the great 
 man. I only hope he either understood or did not 
 notice the peculiarity of my costume, but I am not 
 sure about that. 
 
 He was in uniform, a large, tall man with a very 
 pleasant face. He sat down and talked all the 
 time, very good English, in a deliberate manner. 
 He told me a great deal about Prussia, and I enjoyed 
 his visit very much, though feeling a little anxious 
 about the time. D. had, however, the happy thought 
 to send and tell me that the carriage was at the 
 door, and then my visitor picked up his shining 
 helmet and left. 
 
 I was very much pleased by his visit, but was 
 still more flattered when I saw Lord Frederick 
 Hamilton's surprise at hearing of it. " Why," he 
 said, " Prince Bismarck does not go out of his house 
 four times a year, and only goes to Parliament in a 
 close carriage, and all the Emperors, etc., have to 
 go to him. He just came to see * Dizzy * once 
 when he was ill here, and could not go out himself." 
 
 Well, I hurried back to my dressing, and got off 
 in time, arriving at the palace most punctually. It 
 is not at all imposing outside, being in the street, 
 and inside there is nothing very large or fine about 
 it. The staircase is marble, and is like the one at 
 Clandeboye, only round instead of square. 
 
 The lady-in-waiting met us in a long room at the 
 top of it, and took us into another empty one to 
 await the Empress. As she approached, the doors 
 of a third were opened, and we advanced to the 
 
4 THE EMPEROR AND EMPRESS [ch. i 
 
 threshold, and curtseyed and bowed as we saw her; 
 then she shook hands, made some civil speeches, 
 and instantly proposed that we should sit down. 
 There was a sofa fitting into a corner, and in front 
 of it a marble table, behind this she and I sat, while 
 D. and the lady sat in front. We talked for about 
 ten minutes (French), and then the Emperor came 
 in — such a fine old man ! He still uses a sling for his 
 right arm, not yet having recovered the use of it. 
 The " Interview " lasted a little longer, then the 
 Empress got up, told us who the portraits in the 
 room were, curtseyed, and said she would have the 
 pleasure of seeing us again, and returned to her 
 boudoir. The Emperor led the way into the other 
 room, and then joined the Empress. 
 
 We returned to the long room in which we had 
 been first received, and found there assembled a 
 brilliant array of officers in handsome uniforms, and 
 a few ladies. The Emperor and Empress soon came 
 in ; we all bowed as they entered, and then they 
 began to go round and speak to every one, but 
 first the Empress told her lady to show me her 
 boudoir, .and her picture of the Queen. As I fol- 
 lowed her out, a gentleman said, " I must introduce 
 myself. Lady Dufferin," upon which I graciously 
 held out my hand. " I am the husband of the 
 Princess Royal." It took me a second to realize 
 that this was the Crown Prince 1 
 
 I instantly curtseyed, and felt much taken aback; 
 but he is so nice, such a frank, simple manner, one 
 feels at once that he is a " real man." I counted 
 twenty-one orders on his coat, but there were more. 
 
 The boudoir was not very remarkable. It had 
 two writing-tables in bowers, surrounded on three 
 sides by trellis work, and green leaves and flowers, 
 and family photographs and pictures, one of our 
 Queen when young, with a large wreath of roses on 
 
1879I DINNER AT THE PALACE 5 
 
 her head. When we got back to the saloon the 
 Crown Prince came and talked to me, and introduced 
 his son-in-law/ a very young-looking boy ; he did 
 not say anything, and, though he sat at one side of 
 me at dinner, we did not make much acquaintance. 
 
 The Empress went in with her son, and then, to 
 my surprise, the Emperor gave me his arm ! He 
 was very nice at dinner, and talked to me a great 
 deal. He knew D.'s mother long ago, and used to 
 write to her. 
 
 Dinner was not very long, and we all left the 
 room together, the Empress going out at one door, 
 and our side of the table at another : we met in the 
 next room, and the Empress again sat down with 
 me, behind another marble table. 
 
 The dining-room holds about thirty, the walls are 
 a shining white, one end of the room covered with 
 plate ; it was well lighted, there were flowers on the 
 table, and everything was very nice, but simple for 
 a palace. Numbers of the servants wore rows of 
 war-medals, and indeed there is a great sentiment 
 of reality about people and things at this Court. 
 The men have all seen active service. The Emperor 
 is so natural and simple. There is solidity even 
 about the food, and no affectation about any one 
 except perhaps the Empress, whose manners are 
 somewhat artificial. She wore white, and a small 
 tiara of diamonds with cameos set in it. Talking 
 went on for about twenty minutes, and then the 
 party broke up at half-past six. The Empress went 
 to the French theatre, and the gentlemen all went 
 to a " Court Circle," to say good-bye to the Duke 
 of Connaught's bride. 
 
 After I had changecj my dress D. and I went to a 
 German theatre, and saw a spectacular piece, of 
 which the scenery was the best part. It was the 
 
 1 The Prince of Saxe-Meiningen. 
 
6 DINNER AT PRINCE BISMARCK'S [cii. i 
 
 Sleeping Beauty, and after it there was a very good, 
 well-dressed, decent ballet. It was over before ten, 
 and on our return we had a visit from Lord Frederick 
 Hamilton, D.'s godson, who is attache here. 
 
 Friday, 2Stk. — D. and I went over the National 
 Gallery. The pictures are arranged in a number of 
 small rooms, on three different stories. There is a 
 handsome marble staircase, and a few good pictures, 
 but not many. They were all modern, and of 
 course there were several large battle-pieces. 
 
 In the afternoon I left some cards, and at half- 
 past six we went to dine at the English Embassy. 
 
 I have had a shock I Having provided myself 
 with a trousseau for Petrograd, I learnt last night 
 that a " Grand Duke," a young boy, has died, and 
 that I shall have to wear mourning for three months I 
 I had been particularly told not to get black for 
 Russia, as I had intended to do, so now I have to go 
 off to a dressmaker here, and buy a black evening 
 dress, a bonnet, etc. It is vexatious, when one has 
 ruined oneself in coloured gowns, to let one's gay 
 feathers grow old-fashioned in a box, and to have 
 to live in a limited supply of black. 
 
 Count H. Bismarck came in the evening, and we 
 are to dine with his father to-night at live, in our 
 travelling dress. He wanted to ask us on Thursday, 
 but his wife told him their two " Pomeranian aunts " 
 were coming that night, and he said " they would 
 not amuse Lord Dufferin." 
 
 Saturday night, March ist. — ^We have just returned 
 from dining with Prince Bismarck. He was in an 
 undress uniform, his wife in a green silk of a bright 
 shade, his daughter (married) in grey, I in a dark 
 morning dress. There were two sons, a son-in-law. 
 Lord Odo Russell, and one or two other men, and 
 there was present Bismarck's own enormous big 
 black dog, which follows him everywhere. 
 
1879] ARRIVAL AT PETROGRAD 7 
 
 We had oysters, chicken patties, fish, young wild 
 boar, venison, cheese, ice. The Prince talked very 
 pleasantly all the time. He spoke of the way in 
 which his salmon river used to be poached, and told 
 me that he easily stopped that by " throwing in a 
 few dead horses, and then they touched the fish no 
 more." We all left the dining-room together, and 
 when we came out Prince Bismarck bowed to me, 
 and said, " In Germany we say, * God bless you ' " 
 — then everybody shook hands, and he kissed his 
 wife, his daughter, and his sons, a pretty and un- 
 sophisticated custom. I was then asked if I would 
 allow smoking, and everybody lit a cigar, and Bis- 
 marck sat and talked to D., smoking a very long 
 pipe meantime. We have now come home, seveii 
 o'clock, to pack up. 
 
 Sunday, 2nd. — ^Travelling all day ; had a comfort- 
 able car for the night. 
 
 PETROGRAD 
 
 Monday, February 2>^d. — ^At four yesterday we 
 crossed the frontier, and got into a very good Russian 
 carriage, in which we slept and spent to-day, reaching 
 Petrograd at six. 
 
 Mr. Plunkett, First Secretary, Lord William 
 Compton, and Mr. Condie Stephen, Secretaries, and 
 Mr. Michell, Consul, met us, and we drove to the Hotel 
 d'Europe,* where we have comfortable rooms. We 
 were very glad of our dinner, and went early to bed. 
 D. was delighted to find two open fireplaces. We 
 drove here on wheels, and not in sleighs, as it has 
 been a very mild winter here, unlike the rest of 
 Europe. 
 
 My dress troubles are not nearly over. Now I am 
 
 1 Lord and Lady Augustus Loftus had not yet left the Embassy* 
 2 
 
8 FIRST IMPRESSIONS [ch. i 
 
 told that I must go into white for all joyful occa- 
 sions, and that when we are presented to the Empress 
 I shall probably have to wear a white woollen dress 
 (which I have not got) ; then I am to wear black 
 wool every day for a month, then black silks, etc. 
 All this involves more ordering and buying, and no 
 time to do it economically through one's maid, or 
 comparatively so, by getting things from England. 
 
 I think we must have some Russian lessons, so as 
 to know the letters, and be able to pronounce a 
 little. It is so odd not to be able even to spell the 
 names of the streets and shops. 
 
 We have been to the Embassy to see Lord and 
 Lady Augustus Loftus. The house is in a good 
 situation, facing the Neva, and the rooms are cheer- 
 ful and good. Of course everything there is in 
 confusion, as there is to be a sale of their things, so 
 I will not attempt a description now. We made our 
 first Russian acquaintance while paying this visit. 
 Princess Soltikoff came in ; she is our landlady, and 
 lives in the back part of this house. Lady Augustus 
 kindly told me some of the things I wanted to know, 
 and recommended some of her servants whom we 
 take on. 
 
 In the afternoon D. and I took a walk in the 
 town. The streets are in a bad state now, very wet, 
 the pavements rough and uneven, the shop windows 
 poor, and the large houses look dull, and as if they 
 suffered from damp. 
 
 The sleighs are not so handsome as the Canadian 
 ones. The horse, the coachman, and the lady, all 
 seem squashed up together ; but some smart ones 
 have a very large net thrown over the horses and 
 attached to the sleigh, which looks very pretty. 
 
 Wednesday, Sth. — D. called on Prince Gortschakoff, 
 who returned his visit instantly, in accordance with 
 rules laid down in a book : 
 
1879] OFFICIAL VISITS 9 
 
 ** L'Ainbassadeur fait notifier son arrivee au Ministre 
 des affaires ^trangeres," etc. 
 
 ** L'Ambassadeur ayant ^te prevenu de I'heure k 
 laquelle il peut ^tre regu par le Ministre des affaires 
 etrangeres, se rend chez lui pour lui communiquer ses 
 lettres de creance, et pour demander ses audiences 
 de presentation," etc. 
 
 So far D. has got ; he has paid his visit, and it has 
 been returned. 
 
 ** Madame L'Ambassadrice " (says the book) ** fait 
 la premiere visite a Madame la Grande Maitresse de 
 la Cour. A cet effet elle lui fait demander le jour 
 et I'heure oh elle peut la recevoir." 
 
 So far have I got. 
 
 In the afternoon I went with D. and looked through 
 the Embassy furniture. I forget whether I told 
 you that we are going to live in one corner of it till 
 the state rooms are refurnished. Our formal recep- 
 tion, which introduces us to the society, is to be 
 put off till the autumn, by which time the Embassy 
 will be swept and garnished. 
 
 Then I went to buy a bonnet to wear with a white 
 silk when I am presented to the Grand Duchesses. 
 There are a number of these, and each one appoints 
 her own day, so it may be months before I have 
 done. There is an alarming ceremony to be gone 
 through at Court, and I copy out for you the direc- 
 tions published for me. 
 
 " Le jour et I'heure de la presentation de Madame 
 L'Ambassadrice etant fixes, elle se rend au paiais 
 imperial, et vient descendre au perron qui lui est 
 indique. Madame I'Ambassadrice y trouve un coureur 
 de la cour, et dans la premiere salle les aides des 
 ceremonies viennent a sa rencontre et la conduisent 
 k la chambre d'attente; elle y est recue par le Grand 
 Maitre des c^r^monies. 
 
10 COURT CEREMONIES [ch. i 
 
 " L'ordre etant donn^ d'introduire Madame rAm- 
 bassadrice, elle se rend dans les appartements de sa 
 Majeste rimp^ratrice, conduite par le Grand Maitre 
 des ceremonies. Le Grand Chambellan prend les 
 ordres de sa Majeste Imperiale pour I'introduction de 
 Madame I'Ambassadrice. 
 
 " Madame la Grande Maitresse pr^sente Madame 
 I'Ambassadrice. Deux demoiselles d'honneur sont 
 dans la chambre qui precede la salle d 'audience. 
 Ensuite Madame I'Ambassadrice est reconduite avec 
 les m^mes formalites qu'a son arrivee." 
 
 And it adds that, after this, I shall be received by 
 the Empress like any other lady of the country. 
 
 " Apr^s que Madame I'Ambassadrice a ^t^ pre- 
 sentee k sa Majesty Imperiale, elle en informe les dames 
 des quatre premieres classes du pays, qui lui font la 
 premiere visite." 
 
 The rules for the Ambassador are still more strict. 
 The beginning is much the same, but, the day being 
 fixed for the Emperor to see him — 
 
 *' Un Maitre des c^r^monies va le chercher dans les 
 carrosses de sa Majeste Imperiale. Dans le premier 
 se placent les deux A.D.C. Dans le second, L'Ambas- 
 sadeur se place seul dans le fond, le Maitre des 
 ceremonies vis-a-vis de lui. Troisieme carrosse pour 
 la suite de I'Ambassadeur. 
 
 " Si I'Ambassadeur souhaite que son secretaire ou 
 un de ses parents soit place dans le carrosse de sa 
 Majeste Imperiale cela lui est accorde, mais en 
 observant qu'il prenne place au-dessous du Maitre 
 des ceremonies, et qu'il n'entre dans le carrosse 
 qu'aprfes lui." 
 
 More court people, A.D.C.'s, etc., meet the Am- 
 bassador than the Ambassadress. When everything 
 is ready, and the Emperor is about to receive him — 
 
1879] PRINCE GORTSCHAKOFF 11 
 
 " L'Ambassadeur ayant le Grand Maitre des cere- 
 monies h sa droite, le Maitre des ceremonies a sa 
 gauche precede du gentilhomme de la chambre, se 
 rend dans les appartements de sa Majeste Imperiale." 
 At the door, the " Grand Marechal de la cour " re- 
 ceives him, and the " Grand Chambellan se trouve 
 en dehors de la porte par laquelle on entre dans la 
 salle d 'audience." 
 
 No one enters the room, but the great officials 
 stand outside. The Guards present arms to the 
 Ambassador ; he is reconducted with the same cere- 
 monies. Then he is taken to the Empress, one lady 
 being present, and two being outside. 
 
 I thought all this would interest you, and now, 
 when the day arrives, I shall only have to tell you 
 what I thought of it all, and how I got through such 
 an ordeal. 
 
 In the evening I heard from the Countess PratasofF, 
 the Grande Maitresse, that she will receive me on 
 Thursday at four o'clock, and in the morning D. 
 calls upon the Grand Maitre de la Cour, Prince 
 Lieven, who will follow D. out of the house, and 
 come and call upon us. 
 
 Thursday, 6th. — I went over the Embassy very 
 early, and bought a good deal of Lord A. Loftus's 
 furniture. On my return I changed my dress and 
 awaited visitors. The first who came (unexpectedly, 
 as he had called yesterday) was Prince Gortschakoff, 
 a charming old man of eighty-four, full of the grossest 
 flatteries, expressed- in the most delightful manner. 
 He was surprised at my youthful appearance ; he 
 thought me like D.'s family. He was sure (he said 
 to D.) that although I looked sweet and gentle, I 
 was very firm, etc., etc., etc. Then he told me he 
 relied on me to help him to keep the peace, and to 
 make friends, that he always inquired, when he 
 heard a new Ambassador was coming, whether he 
 
12 THE GRANDE MAITRESSE [ch. i 
 
 had a pretty wife, and that if the answer was " No ! " 
 he always said, '* Alors il perd son meilleur argu- 
 ment." 
 
 He was in England in 1 816-17, and knew every- 
 body, and remembers all the people so well. They 
 say here that he is getting feeble, but he certainly 
 appeared most vigorous. 
 
 After him came the Greek Minister, whom we 
 knew in London, M. Brailas Armeni, and Prince 
 P. de Lieven (Grand Maitre des Ceremonies) and 
 then came Count Khreptovitch (Grand Chambellan), 
 who was an old friend of D.'s, and Count Nesselrode, 
 a cosmopolitan Russian, whom we both knew some- 
 where, but where I can't remember. 
 
 It was now time for me to go and pay my state 
 visit to the Grande Maitresse. D. came with me. 
 When calling in Petrograd you take off your cloak 
 in the hall, and your own servant takes charge of 
 it. At the top of the stairs the servant of the house 
 meets you and ushers you in ; this is the same every- 
 where . 
 
 I found myself in a long, empty room with a parquet 
 floor, opeping into another rather dull and dark 
 room, where the ladies were. In the centre was a 
 pyramid of dark green plants, another pillar of the 
 same was in a window, and these helped very much 
 to darken the apartment ; there was a bare round 
 table, and a number of cane chairs, and nothing at 
 all pretty or comfortable to be seen. 
 
 Countess Pratasoff came forward to meet us. 
 With her was a niece ; we four talked away very 
 pleasantly ; they were not at all stiff. I find that 
 it is to Prince Gortschakoff I have to apply about 
 my presentation to the Empress. 
 
 D. went to see a Madame Schouvaloff whom he 
 had known before at Nice, and I received a visit 
 from Baron and Baroness Jomini. They came to 
 
1879] THE RUSSIAN BALLET 13 
 
 my rooms by mistake, for no one is supposed to call 
 on me yet. 
 
 After dinner we went to the opera to see a ballet 
 d'action. The Opera-house is a very fine one, but 
 looks a little bare, as there is no cloth or curtains 
 about any but the Imperial boxes. 
 
 There is one large box opposite the stage, where 
 the Emperor's suite sit, and his own is just like our 
 royal boxes. They are trying the Jablockoff electric 
 light in the Opera-house. I don't like it at all ; if 
 you look at the lamps they dazzle you, the light 
 flickers and changes colour, is not so gay as gas, 
 and spoils the effect of the chandeliers, which have 
 wax candles in them. 
 
 The ballet is a great institution in Russia, the 
 dancers all being brought up and cared for by the 
 State. This one was called Roxana. The last act 
 was really very pretty : all the people wore Monte- 
 negrin costumes, and the arrangement of the colours 
 and the grouping of the figures were beautiful. One 
 dance was performed by small boys and girls ; this 
 was encored, and was well worth seeing again. The 
 beauty of the corps dramatique is called Petit pas, 
 which I thought was a nickname, but it is her real 
 Russian one. The best danseuse was brought before 
 the curtain four times ; the best part of her acting 
 was, I thought, the profound gratitude, and the 
 " overwhelmed-with-your-goodness " feeling she ex- 
 pressed in her curtseys. 
 
 I am not yet at the end of the dress question. 
 So many people seemed surprised at the instructions 
 I had received about the dress to be worn at my 
 presentation to the Empress, that last night I sat 
 down and wrote to the Grande Maitresse, to ask 
 her point-blank what it is to be, so now if I am 
 wrong I have her letter to show. 
 
 She says," High black dress, coiffure, but no bonnet." 
 
14 ST. ISAAC'S [CH. I 
 
 Monday, loth. — D. and I accomplished a good deal 
 of walking to-day, even did some sightseeing. First 
 we made our way to write down D.'s name at the 
 Cesarevitch's palace, as " Earl of Dufferin." It is 
 the Cesarevitch's birthday, and flags are flying every- 
 where. Not having yet presented his credentials, 
 D. could not do it officially. 
 
 After this we went to see the "St. Isaac's " Church. 
 It is on a grand scale, and is very magnificent, but 
 very dark inside. I am curious to see a service there, 
 as there is not a seat in the place, and the whole 
 space is cut up by enormous pillars. There are a 
 great many pictures, and the faithful buy little 
 candles at the door, to burn in their honour, and 
 bow down to the ground before them. At the back 
 of what I suppose to be the altar are some gigantic 
 pillars, some of malachite, and some of lapis-lazuli — 
 of course these precious stones are veneered over 
 iron tubes, but they are unique, and the light is not 
 sufficient to accentuate the want of harmony in the 
 colours. Between these pillars are life-size (or larger) 
 pictures of saints in mosaic. 
 
 The guide took us up some steps to a place behind 
 this screen, and opened a door through which I 
 was about to walk — ^but he quickly barred the 
 passage with his arm (women are not permitted to 
 enter), and suggested that I should peep through 
 the hinges of the door while D. went in. I saw a 
 very large figure of Christ in a stained glass window, 
 and a model in gold of the church. 
 
 After this I went to say good-bye to Lady Augustus 
 Loftus, and I also settled myself at the Embassy. 
 
 My household consists of a Swiss butler, one 
 Russian housemaid, speaking English, one German 
 ditto, a Russian chasseur who always goes out with 
 the Ambassador, and stands behind his chair at 
 dinner, a Russian porter, a footman, a polyglot under- 
 
1879] WE GO TO COURT 15 
 
 butler, a French cook, five moujiks (who do all 
 the work), two servants belonging to the office, and 
 our maid and valet, also two laundry-maids. 
 
 D. and I were very glad to find ourselves established 
 here, with an open fire, and a sense of peace, after 
 the week at the hotel. 
 
 Tuesday, nth. — At one o'clock to-day the Em- 
 peror's carriages came to fetch D., and three court 
 officials arrived to escort him to the Palace. They 
 came up to our room for a little, and I went in to 
 see them. D. wore uniform, and everybody looked 
 very smart. From the window I saw the proces- 
 sion : first came a coach drawn by four black horses, 
 the coachman and footmen in scarlet ; the A.D.C.'s 
 went in this. Then followed D. and the Maitre des 
 Ceremonies in a coach drawn by six white horses, a 
 third carriage with four horses followed, and then 
 four or five men in scarlet on horseback. 
 
 At two o'clock I started in my own carriage, and 
 arrived at the Palace. I walked up the staircase 
 alone, and through rows of soldiers, then into 
 a great room, in which stood a number of splendidly 
 dressed servants. Then a demoiselle d'honneur took 
 me into a handsome drawing-room, with red silk 
 walls and tables covered with rich cloths. The 
 Countess Pratasoff met me here, and we had a little 
 time to wait, as D.'s audience with the Emperor was 
 not over, and he had to see the Empress before I 
 did. Presently he came through the room, and was 
 taken in to Her Majesty. 
 
 When he came out my turn came, and here my 
 reading of those dreadful rules confused me. I 
 entered a room, in which stood a lady in black, all 
 by herself. I made a low curtsey, but no one said 
 anything, and Countess Pratasoff did not " present " 
 me as I expected. The lady said at once, " Sit 
 down here a moment," so I made up my mind that 
 
i6 THE EMPRESS [ch. i 
 
 this was not the Empress, and felt rather ashamed 
 of my curtsey. She pointed out the most imposing- 
 looking of the chairs to me and began to talk, and 
 I to answer her pretty fully. When she said, " You 
 saw my daughter the other day, " I felt quite taken 
 aback; and she added " the Duchess of Edinburgh," 
 so then I knew it was the Empress. My first thought 
 was that I had been too familiar ; so I got in " Your 
 Majesty " as quickly as I could, and felt very un- 
 comfortable. She is remarkably ladylike, but has 
 neither the " queenly " way of our Queen, nor of 
 the Empress of Germany. When I had been there 
 about ten minutes she got up, curtseyed, and went out. 
 
 As I came out Prince Lieven began to apologize 
 to me, saying that at the moment he had not been 
 able to say my name, so I dare say it was the want 
 of some sort of presentation that made me feel un- 
 certain that I had actually reached the Empress. 
 
 D. was with the Emperor about forty-five minutes. 
 The Imperial carriages brought him back. 
 
 D. being now a full-fledged Ambassador, went off 
 at once to visit the Ambassadors, and I to see the 
 Ambassadresses. There are only two, the Austrian 
 and the German, Countess Langenau and Baroness de 
 Schweinitz ; the latter is an American, a Miss Jay ; 
 they are both very nice. All the other people have 
 to call on me first. 
 
 To-night D. is busy preparing a telegram and a 
 despatch. When he writes home about any con- 
 versation he has had with the Emperor, the despatch 
 has to be submitted to the Emperor to read. The 
 whole time of his audience with the Emperor the 
 members of the Embassy, and the officers about the 
 Court, stood at attention outside, in another room. 
 
 We gave a dinner to our Embassy, Colonel Swaine, 
 Mr. Plunkett, First Secretary, Lord William Comp- 
 ton, whom D. has made his private secretary, and 
 
1879I A TROIKA DRIVE 17 
 
 Mr. Condie Stephen, an Attache, who speaks Russian. 
 We six were the party, and about ten o'clock we 
 followed a custom of the country, and went for a 
 troika drive. 
 
 The troika is a large sledge drawn by three horses. 
 One horse is in the shafts, and he trots. The other 
 two are loosely harnessed on either side of him, and 
 the}^ canter. This team goes at a furious pace, and 
 the Russian moujik screams out to the horses and 
 to the people on the road, " To the right," " To the 
 left," etc., etc. The night was lovely, and we had 
 a charming drive of about five miles to a sort of 
 restaurant, where we alighted, and where we hired a 
 sitting-room and some singers. Twenty-two gipsies, 
 men and women, were the performers. They were 
 all dressed like ourselves, but were very dark and 
 Indian-looking. 
 
 They sat in rows before us, three of them having 
 guitars, and then they sang lovely wild Russian 
 songs ; seven songs and a dance was the bargain. 
 The dance was performed by two women, and was 
 very peculiar ; it consisted in waving their arms, and 
 moving slowly backwards and forwards with a sort 
 of trembling motion all over them, which would be 
 very difficult to copy. We had some tea " for the 
 good of the house," and then drove home, having 
 enjoyed the evening immensely. 
 
 Sunday, i6th. — ^We received notices of three audi- 
 ences for to-morrow, at twelve, at one, and at four 
 o'clock. 
 
 " Le Grand Maitre des Ceremonies a I'honneur 
 d 'informer Son Excellence M. le Comte de Dufferin, 
 Ambassadeur d'Angleterre, qu'il aura I'honneur d'etre 
 re^u par son Altesse Imperiale Monseigneur le Cesare- 
 vitch,^ Grand-Due Heritier, demain Lundi le 5 Mars 
 ^midi." 
 
 ^ The Emperor Alexander III. 
 
i8 THE CESAREVNA [ch. i 
 
 I received the same order for the Cesarevna,^ and 
 since then they keep dropping in from other Grand 
 Dukes and Grand Duchesses. 
 
 We were at the Palace in good time D. in uniform, 
 I in black dress without a bonnet. Several beautiful 
 uniforms were waiting, and I should think Prince 
 Lieven and the other masters of court ceremonial 
 will be very glad when we have finished our rounds, 
 as they have to appear at each place. 
 
 We sat in a sort of conservatory room, till we were 
 ushered in different directions to our interviews. 
 While D. was with the Cesarevitch I went to the 
 Cesarevna. She is charming, very sweet and gentle, 
 and like our Princess in many ways, though not so 
 pretty. I stayed with her some time, and heard 
 one of her children playing the piano in the next 
 room, with as much incompetence as any un-imperial 
 child of its age. I waited as before, while D. saw 
 " Marie Feodorovna," which is the proper way to 
 speak of Emperors and Grand Duchesses here, and 
 this is the Cesarevna's name. 
 
 We were free at ten minutes to one, and then 
 D. went to Prince d'Oldenberg, who is, he says, a 
 very nice old man. We had some breakfast after 
 this, and I received the Belgian Minister's wife and 
 daughter. 
 
 At four we had another audience with a widow 
 and her daughter, the Grand Duchess Catherine 
 Michailovna. Here we were given tea before we 
 were admitted. D. and I went in together, and I 
 found the audience very long. I sat beside the 
 Grand Duchess on a short sofa with a big table in 
 front of us, D. on the other side and the young lady 
 next him. The chairs were arranged round the 
 table, the walls of the room were white with pink 
 and mauve lines, a picture and a bust of the late 
 * The present Dowager-Empress. 
 
1879] MORE AUDIENCES 19 
 
 Grand Duke, a big statue of Una and the Lion, large 
 glass and gold monuments for candles, etc., placed 
 against them; but the staircase of this Palace St. 
 Michail is very magnificent, so enormous and so lofty. 
 
 Tuesday, iSth. — Our first audience to-day was at 
 the Grand Duke Vladimir's. D. was shown up one 
 staircase, and I up another one, and he saw the 
 Grand Duke while I saw the Duchess Marie Paolovna, 
 such a charming young woman, very pretty and 
 very nice. She said she thought we must be very 
 much tired with seeing so many of them. When I 
 go in I curtsey at the door, then they take my hand, 
 and I curtsey again, then they generally make me 
 sit either with my face to the light, or on a sofa 
 beside them, and we generally talk — Canada. 
 
 I waited with a dame de palais while D. paid his 
 visit to the Grand Duchess. Then we proceeded a 
 little farther down the quay (where we live ourselves) 
 to the palace of the Grand Duke Michael. He is 
 away now, and we were received separately by 
 ** Olga Feodorovna." I liked her very much too ; 
 she was so simple and natural and pleasant, and she 
 talks English perfectly. 
 
 The Grand Duke Vladimir told D. that he would 
 come and see me, so I waited at home to receive him. 
 He arrived in a splendid uniform, and is a very 
 nice-looking man ; he talked a great deal (which is 
 a great comfort) in French, and was very civil with 
 good wishes, etc. In the morning the Prince of 
 Oldenburg came, a benevolent old man, with a 
 mania for abolishing armies. 
 
 Wednesday, igth. — Our audience at one to-day was 
 with " Eugenie Maximiliovna," Princess of Olden- 
 burg. She received us together, and was very nice. 
 In fact, all the Grand Duchesses appear to be 
 charming. 
 
 In the afternoon I paid visits as usual, and saw 
 
20 VISITS AND BALLET [ch. i 
 
 two English families ; one of the ladies looked so 
 young that I was on the point of saying to her ** Is 
 your mother at home ? " Happily I didn't commit 
 myself. 
 
 Thursday, 20th. — ^At 11.30 we had another audi- 
 ence, with the Grand Duke and Grand Duchess 
 Nicholas. They live in a very fine palace with a 
 magnificent staircase, and on an enormous easel in 
 one room was a very beautiful picture by a j^'oung 
 Russian artist, of a sunset light on a bit of wild 
 bush. It was very simple, but extremely striking 
 and pleasant to look at. I waited while D. was 
 with the Grand Duke, and then we went together 
 to see the lady " Alexandra Petrovna." We like 
 all the Imperial family very much, but I believe 
 we shall never see them again, as they only appear 
 at the state ceremonials.^ 
 
 This was my " Day," and I sat at home by a tea- 
 table and had visitors from about two to six. I 
 was not alone for an instant all that time, and gener- 
 ally had to keep up the conversation in French. 
 
 Mr. Plunkett and Mr. Condie Stephen dined with 
 us, and ^Ye went to see a lovely ballet, La Bayadere. 
 In it a young lady received some flowers, but a 
 viper which was concealed in them bit her, and she 
 died on the stage, denouncing her rival as her mur- 
 derer. The rival, during the rest of the piece, was 
 always on the eve of being married, and was always 
 thwarted by the ghost of the deceased, which kept 
 appearing and pirouetting between her and the 
 bridegroom, who became quite distracted. Finally, 
 there was a great coup de theatre, thunder and light- 
 ning, and the sudden destruction of the whole com- 
 pany, while in the background the deceased is seen 
 in excelsis. 
 
 Friday, 21st. — I managed a walk to-day, and paid 
 
 1 We never did. — H. D. 
 
1879] DINNER AT ITALIAN EMBASSY 21 
 
 some visits. D. had an audience with the unmarried 
 Grand Dukes, and they have given us permission 
 to skate in their garden. I received a very civil 
 letter about it from the secretary of the Grand Duke 
 Serge. The invitation includes my family and all the 
 members of the Embassy. 
 
 We dined with M. Nigra, the Italian Ambas- 
 sador. As this is my first dinner here, I will tell 
 you about it. The great peculiarity is the " Zak- 
 huska " (or some such word) of which one partakes 
 on the way in to dinner. You start arm-in-arm, as 
 usual in England, but you pass through an ante- 
 room where a table is spread with caviare, cheese, 
 sardines, liqueurs, and all sorts of good things. 
 There you let go your gentleman, and everybody 
 goes dipping about into these dishes, with a fork or 
 with their fingers, eating a bit here and a bit there ; 
 then you take arms again and go on in to dinner. 
 The table was very nicely arranged, and we had 
 pretty menus, and there were a number of fancy 
 bonbons on stands, little hats, jockey-caps, etc. 
 (which it is quite the fashion for the guests to take 
 away with them). I sat between our host, the 
 Chevalier Nigra and Baron Jomeni ; the latter is 
 Prince Gortschakoff's right-hand man, and he was 
 very pleasant. Count Schouvaloff ^ came in the 
 middle of dinner, from the Palace, where they dine 
 at six, and was put in between me and M. Nigra. 
 We all left the dining-room arm-in-arm together, 
 and went away at a quarter-past nine. M. de Giers 
 came in to see D. on business, and what with that, 
 and sending telegrams after he left, D. was busy 
 till one o'clock. The business always seems to come 
 at night, and sitting up till four in the chancery is 
 common. 
 
 Monday, 24th. — I took a constitutional round the 
 
 1 At that time Russian Ambassador in England. 
 
22 PETROGRAD [ch. i 
 
 gardens, and then set off in my open carriage to pay- 
 twelve visits. As I was on my way to the fourth, I 
 said to myself, " These pavements are so bad, it 
 would never do to have a very good carriage here," 
 and a few minutes later off came a wheel, the car- 
 riage went down on one side, and the horses set off; 
 but happily the united efforts of the coachman and 
 footman pulled them in ; we drew up to a pave- 
 ment and I got, for the first time, into one of the 
 little sleighs they use here, the most uncomfortable 
 little machine I ever was in : it has no back at all, 
 the high seat is too large for one person, and too 
 small for two, the coachman sits on a little bar just 
 over your knees, and you feel that both he and you 
 are most insecure for rattling over Petrograd streets, 
 I met D. as I returned in this humble manner, and 
 he lent me his carriage to finish my visits in. 
 
 We dined at the German Embassy with General 
 and Madame von Schweinitz. He is much liked by 
 the Court and the Russians. I sat between our host 
 and Prince Orloff Davidoff, an old gentleman who 
 was educated in Edinburgh, had dined with Sir 
 Walter, Scott and Moore, and stayed with Miss 
 Edgeworth. Our landlord and his very pretty wife. 
 Prince and Princess Soltikoff, were there ; she wore 
 lots of diamonds, but we are all in black. Then 
 there were Baron and Baronne de Budberg (a pretty 
 old lad}^). Count and Countess Pahlen, Princess 
 Oblonski, who was a great beauty, and who now has 
 a sort of political salon. There was also an old 
 Madame Bariatinski who has translated some Rus- 
 sian poetry into English. I enjoyed the dinner very 
 much. 
 
 Tuesday, 2 5 /A. — Mr. Plunkett came in to tell us 
 that the chief of the secret police had been shot at 
 just round the corner of our house. The assassin 
 was on horseback, and the shot went through two 
 
1879] ATTEMPTED ASSASSINATION 23 
 
 windows of the carriage, but happily missed the 
 man. He ordered his coachman to follow, but 
 came against a sleigh and was stopped, the assassin 
 riding on and getting out of sight ; his horse fell 
 with him, but he got into a sleigh and drove away. 
 The police have the horse, but not the man, and 
 this is the second horse they have in custody in the 
 same way. General Dreuteln, whom they have thus 
 attempted to assassinate, is well known for his cour- 
 age, and some time ago a message was sent to him 
 saying, " We know you are brave and will persevere 
 in your duty whatever we do ; we shall therefore take 
 the life of your daughter." However, they have 
 made one more attempt to take his. 
 
 I went to skate at the Tauride ; there was one 
 young Grand Duke there, " Paul Michaelovitch," 
 who was tobogganing. He wanted to take me down, 
 but I told him I was afraid. 
 
 Thursday, March 2'jth. — I took a constitutional 
 before lunch, and then sat at home all the afternoon 
 for visitors. This is rather a fatiguing performance 
 when so many of the visitors are unknown to one. 
 In the evening we had the new French Ambassador, 
 General Chanzy, to dine with us, and Baron Jomini. 
 The former was very interesting, as he described to 
 us his imprisonment by the Commune, and many 
 of his experiences during the war. D. knew him 
 very well in Syria. 
 
 Friday, 2Sth. — ^We went to some amateur theatri- 
 cals at the Princess Paskevitch's. I was so glad 
 to be asked to this, first, because the piece acted 
 was Les Pattes de Mouche which we played at 
 Ottawa, and, secondly, because the crime de la creme 
 of society were there, and I was able to make many 
 nice new acquaintances. 
 
 The Princess is an excellent actress, and the 
 " Prospere " of the play (Prince John Galitzin) was 
 3 
 
24 THE CZAR [ch. i 
 
 also extremely good in his part. They all speak 
 French as their own language, but are perhaps a 
 little too fast in their utterance. On the staircase 
 of the house are some beautiful panels worked 
 by the Princess. There are four large ones repre- 
 senting the birds of the four quarters of the globe ; 
 a peacock for Europe, an ostrich for Africa, etc., 
 and smaller panels of flowers in which the same idea 
 is carried out. They are made of satin, the birds 
 most beautifully embroidered, and the scenery 
 painted on the satin . You can only tell by looking very 
 close which part is painting and which embroidery, 
 and the feathers of the ostrich, etc., are so fluffy 
 and so wonderfully done. She worked them from 
 large models before her, and as decorations they are 
 most successful. In the centre of one room there 
 is an enormous Sevres jar, which is said to be very 
 valuable. 
 
 Saturday, 2gth. — D. and I walked in the gardens, 
 and we were looking out for the Emperor in order 
 to avoid him if we saw him in the distance, but there 
 were a number of nurses and children about and we 
 came dh him unawares. He stopped and asked D. 
 to introduce " him to me," for this is the polite way 
 in which he put it, and then he said something to 
 me about making my acquaintance " de cette maniere 
 un peu originale," and told me to take care of the 
 cold, which is treacherous at this time of year, etc. 
 He then shook hands, and we left the garden. He 
 is tall, his face is thin, and he is suffering a good 
 deal from asthma. 
 
 M. and Madame de Langenau dined with us, and 
 we took her to the circus. We got out, by mistake, 
 at the royal door, and were ushered into the Im- 
 perial box, where we sat for some time in great 
 state, but the people found us out, and invited us 
 to take a lower seat. 
 
i879l DINNER AT THE PALACE 25 
 
 We are dining at the Palace to-night, but it is 
 doubtful if the Empress will be able to appear. 
 She is very delicate. 
 
 The dinner at the Palace was at six, so, having 
 dressed myself in black, with all my diamonds, 
 and D. in evening coat with brass buttons and 
 orders, we started off a few minutes before the hour 
 for the Winter Palace. When we arrived there we 
 passed through soldiers the whole way, and were 
 preceded by a servant in red, who turned and bowed 
 continually, and then we found ourselves in the 
 dining-room. I thought this very odd at first, but 
 Prince John Galatzin met us there, and showed us 
 where we were to sit, everybody being brought 
 through the room to learn their places. He told me 
 I was to sit between the Emperor and the " Grand- 
 Due Heritier." Then we went on into the drawing- 
 room, where we found a brilliant array of uniforms, 
 and ladies in black and diamonds. There were 
 eighty- two people for dinner. 
 
 I was introduced to several more people, and met 
 a great many that I had known before, and then 
 the Emperor was announced. He came and spoke 
 to me, I was the first of the ladies, and then I was 
 presented to the Cesarevitch, and in a few minutes 
 we started for the dining-room, the Emperor taking 
 in the Cesarevna, I following with the Cesarevitch, 
 and D. with the Grande Maitresse. The Empress 
 did not appear. All the members of our Embassy 
 were there, and General Chanzy and all his staff. 
 D. sat on the other side of the Cesarevna. She is so 
 like the Princess of Wales, and has all her charm. 
 
 The Emperor is very nice. He talked to me a 
 great deal, and is so perfectly simple in his manner 
 that he does not alarm one. I always imagined the 
 Russian Court to be so stiff, but there appear to me 
 to be fewer formalities than at our own. The dinner 
 
26 DINNER AT THE PALACE [ch. i 
 
 lasted only an hour and five minutes, I got very 
 little to eat, for in the first place I don't yet under- 
 stand what is coming, and, in the second, when you 
 are sitting by an Emperor, and he is talking to you, 
 you don't like to turn and help yourself to a great 
 dish which is being handed to you, for at these real 
 dinners d, la Russe, the joint is carried round and 
 you help yourself ; but that takes longer than simply 
 nodding to a servant to put the plate down. I 
 made a great mistake, however, in saying " No " to 
 a big fish. It is called a " sterlet," is very like an 
 eel, and is very good and I like it, but for above 
 reasons I refused it, and both the Emperor and the 
 Grand Duke remarked that I did. It is essentially 
 Russian, and of course I felt that I ought to have 
 taken some, and could give no available reason for 
 not having done so ! Then we all went arm-in-arm 
 back to the drawing-room, and the Cesarevna came 
 and spoke to me, and I was presented to the Grand 
 Dukes Paul and Serge, and the Emperor talked to 
 D., General Chanzy, and a few other people, and then 
 went away, and we were home about eight. 
 
 April 2nd. — ^We went to our first " Drum." It 
 was at Madame Delanoff's, a lady who is particu- 
 larly friendly to strangers and diplomats here. As 
 we could not go to her till after eleven o'clock, we 
 paid an evening visit to Princess Paskevitch first. 
 She is always " at home " after dinner. Prince 
 Paskevitch is a great collector of arms, china, etc., 
 and we found them in a lovely room, a long gallery, 
 the walls covered with swords and daggers, bucklers, 
 old harness, and other beautiful things, precious 
 cabinets, one or two good pictures, and a vase for 
 which he has been offered fabulous sums. It is a 
 shell supported by figures beautifully moulded in 
 silver. One other gentleman came in, and then we 
 went off to our party. 
 
 1 
 
i879l STRICT ETIQUETTE 27 
 
 We had a visit from the Chinese Ambassador. He 
 came in a beautiful yellow jacket, and was accom- 
 panied by two interpreters and a secretary. We 
 gave them tea, but they accepted our suggestion 
 that they should not drink it if they did not like it, 
 and after a spoonful or two they seemed glad to 
 put it down. 
 
 At half-past six we dined with M. and Madame 
 Due — ^there were only a few people, but a very good 
 dinner, as our hosts pay great attention to the sub- 
 ject, and understand " forming " a cook. D. had 
 to go and see Gortschakoff directly after, and I was 
 brought home by one of the guests. 
 
 Monday, yth. — In the morning I had a visit from 
 Countess Adleberg, a Minister's wife, and I found 
 out that, after all my struggles to follow the strictest 
 etiquette, I ought to call upon the Ministers' wives 
 first. I have asked the question over and over 
 again, as I thought it so odd they had not called on 
 me, though very civil when they met me. It now 
 appears that, after discussion, they decided that, as 
 I had not had the " official reception," I should call 
 first on them, but, as they sent me no notification of 
 the fact, it was impossible for me to know it. 
 
 Wednesday, gth. — D. was very busy all day, and 
 only had a bit of a walk with me on the boards in 
 the garden. We were just about to meet the Em- 
 peror again, but I saw him coming, and turned 
 quickly round. 
 
 I afterwards saw him leave the gardens. A few 
 boys in uniform, who happened to be there, drew 
 up at the gate, and, as he passed, he spoke to the 
 first one, then he got into a very plain, I may say, 
 shabby victoria, driven by one of the common and 
 badly dressed coachmen, and drove off, with no 
 footman or other attendant. There was a police 
 officer outside the gate while the Emperor was in 
 
28 CHURCH SERVICES [ch. i 
 
 the garden, but when he left, the officer drove off 
 in his " buggy." The dress of the coachmen at this 
 time of the year is a dark-blue cloth gown lined 
 with fur, and with a little silk band round the waist, 
 and a hat ! Oh, such a hat ! It is a short tall- 
 hat, bent up and twisted and curled like a caricature 
 of a Frenchman's chimney-pot. My Jehu wears 
 gold stripes on his broad back, which show that 
 mine is a diplomatic carriage, and the chasseur's 
 plumes show that it is an Ambassador's carriage ; 
 but one can't be puffed up with pride with such a 
 back, and such a costume to look at, so very ugly 
 and tawdry. 
 
 Thursday, loth. — As this was " my day," I did 
 not go out. General G. brought his daughter to see 
 me. He began by reproaching me with not having 
 been to church the last three days. Did I not 
 belong to the Church ? Why had I not been ? 
 He goes every day in Passion Week, but not at any 
 other time of the year. The rest of the year he has 
 not time, and so he looks in at the services of the 
 " Orthodox Church " (Greek) in the chapel in his 
 own house. This he told me with perfect good faith. 
 Church twice a day (with supper after the second 
 service) during Passion Week, and a very modified 
 attendance to religious services at other times. This 
 General is descended from a Scotch family, and 
 imagines himself to belong to our Church. 
 
 Good Friday, nth. — Our clergyman seems to have 
 other members of his congregation who devote them- 
 selves to church this one week only, for he warned 
 them against this system in his sermon to-day. He 
 told me General G. comes to church three times, 
 twice in undress uniform to signify that he is " in 
 training," the third time in full dress to take the 
 Communion, and there it ends, so far as our Church 
 is concerned, till next year. In the afternoon D. 
 
1879] A GREEK CATHEDRAL 29 
 
 and I w«nt into the Kaizan Church, a Greek Cathedral. 
 There are no seats in any of the Orthodox Churches, 
 and there are always great pillars, so that the church 
 looks more like a big hall than a church. The people 
 prostrate themselves in front of the pictures, with 
 their foreheads touching the ground, and then kiss 
 the frame. There is a miraculous Virgin in this 
 church, covered with precious stones, and a stream 
 of people passes before her, kissing her ; they also 
 buy little candles at the door and stick them into 
 stands prepared for the purpose in front of the image 
 they wish to honour. On this day there was a 
 coffin lying in state, which is, I believe, carried in 
 during the night, and there were crowds of people 
 round, kissing particular parts of it. In several 
 parts of the church screens were put up, and wor- 
 shippers with unlighted candles in their hands were 
 passing in behind these. There are fifty-six pillars 
 in this church, all monoliths of Finland granite, and 
 the keys of many fortresses, and flags taken in war, 
 are hanging up round the walls. 
 
 Saturday, April 12th. — ^Mr. Grosvenor, a son of Lord 
 Ebury's, who has made a journey right through 
 China, arrived here as Secretary of Embassy. He 
 breakfasted with us, as well as Mr. Condie Stephen, 
 and in the evening we had the whole of our Embassy 
 to dinner. At eleven we went to St. Isaac's Church, 
 to see Easter begin. A space within the altar rails 
 was kept for the Diplomatic corps, and we had seats. 
 The congregation stood. When we arrived the 
 building was very dimly lighted. It was quite 
 crowded, and nothing happened till about ten 
 minutes to twelve, when a little movement began 
 amongst the priests. Three stood on a platform in 
 the middle of the church, and there was some chant- 
 ing. Then the great doors of the Holy Place were 
 opened behind the altar, and some more splendid 
 
30 EASTER EVE [ch. I 
 
 priests came out, and began to search for the Body 
 of our Lord. Finally they retired behind the doors 
 till twelve, when the church was lighted up — every 
 individual in the crowd had a taper, which he lighted, 
 so that the effect of these stars all over the building 
 was very pretty. The chandeliers were lighted in a 
 clever way : a cotton thread is tied round the wicks 
 of all the candles, and a long end hangs down, that 
 is lighted, and the fire flies up to the candles, and 
 burns its way along the thread, lighting the wicks 
 as it passes along. 
 
 These do not, however, light the building bril- 
 liantly enough ; it would be magnificent if lighted by 
 gas. The announcement that " Christ has risen " 
 had not as great an effect as I expected. Their joy- 
 ful music is not very different from their doleful ; it 
 is monotonous, and there is no organ to sustain the 
 voices. One priest after another walks round to all 
 the great pictures and bows to them, and swings 
 incense over them and over the congregation, and 
 one wonders how the older men can stand so many 
 hours of bowing and chanting after their Lenten 
 fasts. The priest kissed several soldiers and all the 
 choir, three kisses each, and then he began to read 
 out of a book ; but we left, as the most interest- 
 ing part of the ceremony was over. The congregation 
 crossed themselves continually. They must have 
 felt faint with standing. The priests look strange 
 with their long hair. We only got home about two 
 o'clock, and then lOO guns were fired in honour of 
 the day. 
 
 Easter Sunday. — Church. I did nothing else, but 
 D. had certain visits which have to be paid on this 
 day, and he was out all the afternoon. 
 
 Monday, 14th. — ^The first thing I heard this morn- 
 ing was that when the Emperor was walking round 
 the Palace, as he always does at nine o'clock, he was 
 
i879l ATTEMPTED ASSASSINATION 31 
 
 shot at four times. The report comes through the 
 servants, and they say that he is not touched, and 
 that the men are taken. How fearful these attempts 
 
 at assassination are ! 
 
 I 
 
 The report is too true, and every one is full of it. 
 The man actually shot at the Emperor five times 
 without even touching his clothes. He passed the 
 Emperor and saluted him, and the Emperor says 
 that he thought to himself, " How easily that man 
 could kill me if he chose." Then he heard the shot ; 
 he went off the pavement and dodged as the shots 
 were fired ; some say a woman seized the man, 
 and some say that a soldier hit him on the head. A 
 policeman had his face grazed by one shot, and the 
 Emperor was put into a caleche standing by, and 
 was driven home. He suffers from asthma, and was 
 very much out of breath at first. The news flew 
 round the town, and all the Russians jumped into 
 uniform, and rushed to the Palace, where there was 
 immediately a thanksgiving service, and the Imperial 
 Family saw every one afterwards. All the houses 
 put out flags, and we had the Russian and English 
 ones flying on ours. 
 
 In the afternoon I was out walking with D., and 
 I looked round and saw the Emperor passing us in a 
 carriage. He called out twice " Bon jour. Milord." 
 He was going round the town to show himself ; poor 
 man ! is it not horrible to be subject to such excite- 
 ments ? The assassin was very sick afterwards, and 
 at first they thought he had taken poison ; but now 
 they think it was from the blow he received on his 
 head. They say he expressed great regret at the 
 failure of his plan. I saw the Schouvaloffs and 
 M. de Giers, all very much upset about this. 
 
 Tuesday, i $th. — ^The assassin did take poison, but 
 the antidotes were effective, and he is better. They 
 
32 A CONCERT [ch. i 
 
 say he has been doctor and schoolmaster, and was 
 educated at the expense of the Grand Duchess 
 Helene. 
 
 In the evening we went to our first smart party. 
 It was a little concert, and what time do you suppose 
 we got home ? At ten minutes to three ! 
 
 It was at Baron Steiglitz's house. It is the finest I 
 have seen here ; a marble staircase, and a drawing- 
 room done with blue silk (which, by the way, killed 
 my gown), and then a white concert room with flowers 
 arranged in it. The music began about eleven, and 
 there was a great fuss made over a pianist, who broke 
 one wire in the piano, and ought to have broken 
 them all, I should think. She was given three 
 beautiful bouquets. I wanted to see the whole 
 course of a party here, so I stayed on till the end, 
 the finale being a sitting supper. 
 
 It would all have been very nice if the hours were 
 reasonable. As my place in Petrograd is third after 
 the Grand Duchesses, I am always in the front places. 
 No. I is Madame de Langenau, the Austrian Ambas- 
 sadress, who is doyenne of the Corps Diplomatique, 
 having been here the longest. In this instance the 
 front place meant a great deal too near the music. 
 The German Ambassadress does not go out much. 
 
 Thursday f lyth. — D. assisted at my " At Home"; 
 we had rather a pleasant afternoon, people coming 
 in an agreeable way. 
 
 I think I told you that there was a question raised 
 as to whether I should call upon the Ministers' wives 
 first, or they on me. The minute I heard there was 
 a doubt about it I determined to go to them, but this 
 led both them and me into a difficulty. I was told 
 that there was one I must not go to, as no one visits 
 her, not even Russians, as she is not sufficiently 
 noble by birth ; but I replied that I had been pre- 
 sented to her at Court, and that if I was to make 
 
1879] ^ A CHARITY BAZAAR 33 
 
 the first visit I must certainly go and see her. I 
 did, and she came yesterday, and received a most 
 insolent bow from one of the guests, while a much 
 nicer lady shook hands with her, which I was very 
 glad of. 
 
 It appears I have got another undesirable acquaint- 
 ance (this time morally unsuitable) and I am told 
 that to her I must simply jeter des cartes. 
 
 Friday, iSth. — I had promised to sell at a bazaar 
 given for the German poor, in the house of the Ger- 
 man Ambassador. He and his wife are away, so 
 Madame de Langenau took most of the trouble. I 
 went there and found tables laid out in five or six 
 rooms. My duties were at the tea-table, and, as 
 the food and the flowers were presents, they made 
 the most money, whereas everything else came from 
 shops and only made a percentage. 
 
 Many people came with a certain sum, and spent 
 it anyhow ; for instance, Baron Steiglitz gave me 100 
 roubles (;^io) for a sandwich. With little generosities 
 of this kind we made 400 roubles (;£4o) in the after- 
 noon. There was a band playing, and I found it 
 rather amusing. 
 
 Saturday, igth. — In the morning I saw a little 
 about the furnishing of the Embassy, and later went 
 again to the bazaar. My doubtful friend appeared 
 on purpose to bring me two sovereigns for a 
 cup of tea ! Will it be possible to jeter des cartes 
 after this ? To-day we made 600 roubles . The 
 weather was lovely, and every one says the Neva is 
 going to break up. 
 
 Sunday, 20th. — A new sensation ! When I looked 
 out of my window yesterday evening a sheet of flat, 
 dirty-looking ice lay before me, this morning a 
 splendid river flows by my windows with not a scrap 
 of ice to be seen, a blue sky overhead, and a bright 
 sun I It is perfectly wonderful the rapidity with 
 
34 EDUCATION [ch. i 
 
 which this change takes place, and I am only sorry 
 that the ice passed away in the night. There is 
 generally a great ceremony about opening the Neva. 
 The Governor goes forth in a state barge, surrounded 
 by thousands of boats, and carries a letter to inform 
 the Emperor of the good news ; but for some reason 
 or other, there was not much show to-day, only a 
 great excitement, and crowds of people along the 
 quays. I can't tell you how delightful this sudden 
 promise of summer is . At church there was a thanks- 
 giving for the safety of the Emperor. 
 
 Monday, 21st. — ^There is nothing that surprises 
 me as much here as the education the Russians give 
 their children. I was talking of it to a lady yester- 
 day, and she said, " You know the one thing that I 
 do insist upon with a governess is, that she shall 
 teach nothing," because, she says, " I may have a 
 very nice woman, and I may like her very much, 
 but I may not like her teaching, and if once she has 
 begun to give lessons I can't stop her." They have 
 very expensive English governesses and tutors to 
 live in the house to teach English, and then masters 
 by the hour for every other subject. I know of a 
 tutor who lives in the house for a boy of eleven, 
 superintends his preparation for other masters, gets 
 3,000 roubles per annum, and has his journeys paid 
 home for a holiday. One lady told me her son's 
 education cost her 12,000 roubles a year, and we 
 think Eton expensive with board, lodging, and 
 clothes, for ;{^300 ! The boys have no amusements ; 
 only a walk and a few gymnastics for exercise. 
 
 Tuesday, 22nd. — Spent some time with the archi- 
 tect, received a visitor, and went to pay a number 
 of visits, finding several people in. 
 
 D. dined with the Prince d 'Oldenburg, who, of 
 course, made a speech about his hobby, universal 
 peace. 
 
i879l NIHILIST PLOTS 35 
 
 There is a great deal going on in the way of anti- 
 revolutionary measures here. Every householder 
 has to put extra guards on to his house — ^to declare 
 the names of occupants, etc. Every individual 
 possessing arms has to declare them ; and we spent 
 the evening in a house the walls of which are decorated 
 with ancient swords and guns, of which the owner 
 had sent in a list that morning. 
 
 Thursday, 24th. — ^We are still talking here of the 
 attempt on the Emperor's life, and of the arrests, 
 and measures taken to discover the Nihilists. All 
 along the streets you see a row of sleepy men crouch- 
 ing into their great sheepskin coats. These are the 
 new watchmen set upon every house, and they have 
 a most absurd effect. 
 
 An officer was tried and condemned to death this 
 week. Among his comrades he was considered a 
 very quiet, inoffensive man, but the moment he was 
 taken he became most violent. He shot one man, 
 tried to stab others, and was overcome with diffi- 
 culty. At his trial he jumped a barricade, and, being 
 taken again, he began to roar, so that he had to be 
 removed to a dungeon. He has appealed against 
 his sentence. Among his papers all sorts of direc- 
 tions for assassinations, etc., were discovered, and 
 they say he was to have killed the Emperor. 
 
 I think I told you of a girl who walked into a 
 party at Moscow and shot a man. They say that 
 her victim had been designated to shoot the Em- 
 peror, but that he fled from Petrograd to avoid 
 doing it, and that the girl was sent after him to 
 punish him. These stories, and every one's opinion 
 upon them, form our whole conversation here, 
 occasionally lightened by a little local gossip. 
 
 Tuesday, 2gth. — D. and I went to look at the 
 Gymnastic Establishment. It is for active and 
 passive exercise ; they are greatly recommended by all 
 
36 GREEK CHURCH SERVICE [ch. i 
 
 the doctors. It is a very curious place to see. The 
 room looks more like a flax-mill than anything else, 
 being full of machinery, a great deal of which is 
 worked by steam. They undertake to exercise every 
 muscle in your body in the easiest and least fatiguing 
 way. In one chair you sit, and are given in two minutes 
 the same amount of exercise that you would take 
 in 200 steps and another gives you the same move- 
 ments of muscles as you would have on horseback, 
 etc. You put your foot or your hand into a machine, 
 and find it suddenly being twisted and turned and 
 moved in various directions by steam. Several 
 little girls and some fat old ladies were there. 
 
 May 1st. — ^A very wintry first of May. The Neva 
 again covered with ice, which is coming down from 
 Lake Ladoga. In the morning the sun was shining 
 pleasantly and D. and I went to the Hermitage. 
 Outside there are eight gigantic figures in grey 
 marble holding up the portico ; they are very fine 
 indeed, and on entering there is a grand staircase. 
 The Hermitage contains an immense collection of 
 pictures, but we had only just time to walk round, 
 and we "did not find our way to the lower floor where 
 there are statues and Egyptian things. 
 
 Sunday, 4th. — I went with Madame Schouvaloff 
 to the chapel in the Palace for the Greek Church 
 service. The singing was lovely, the chapel very 
 empty. The priests wore dark blue velvet much 
 embroidered in silver. The Gospel and Epistle were 
 read, the former by a priest, the latter by one of the 
 choir. I remarked to Madame Schouvaloff that the 
 Epistle was not read by the priest, and she implied 
 a very decided " Of course not." I don't know why. 
 I intended to make up for neglecting my own church 
 by going there in the evening, but I walked and 
 failed to find it. It is an ordinary door in a row, 
 and I looked into several and asked several Russian 
 
1879] A WEDDING 37 
 
 porters ; but, as we could not understand each other, 
 I did not succeed in my quest. After the morning 
 service we walked through some interesting portrait 
 galleries in the Palace ; there is a great deal to see 
 there, but we must go some day with plenty of 
 time to spend over it. 
 
 Friday, May gth. — I have to write rather in a hurry 
 just before going to bed, and after a tiring day. I 
 have been busy from the moment I got up . First of 
 all I did a good deal of business about the house, as 
 we leave for England to-morrow, and I, at any rate, 
 do not return till the autumn. 
 
 In the midst of my arrangements one of the court 
 officials came and asked me if I would like to see 
 his wedding at two o'clock; so I went. The chapel 
 was square, and on one side stood the husband's 
 friends, on the other the bride's. The moment she 
 reached the door a beautiful chant was sung. Then 
 the couple stood together, and the priest gave them 
 each a lighted candle to hold, which they retained 
 throughout the service. It was long, and there was 
 a great deal of reading, the remarkable parts of the 
 ceremony being the following : A strip of satin is 
 put down in front of the couple, on which they stand. 
 They both put rings on their right hands, a glass of 
 wine is given them, out of which they drink in 
 turns three times, the priest holding it ; the bride- 
 groom's moustache being a great difficulty. Then 
 crowns are held over their heads by the best men, 
 whose office is no sinecure ^ They got very tired and 
 had to take it in turns and change arms, etc. They 
 also had to follow the couple and the priest three 
 times round the church, still holding up the crowns. 
 The service is very interesting to see, and the sing- 
 ing was very good. The bride was pretty, and, after 
 shaking hands with her, I rushed away to finish off 
 my adieux. 
 
38 TSARSKOE-SELOE [ch. i 
 
 D. took me to see Prince Gortschakoff, who was 
 very charming, and gave me his photograph. 
 
 In the evening Baron Jomini came and stayed a 
 long time. He is very agreeable, and speaks beau- 
 tiful French, a language he is said to know better 
 than Russian. 
 
 Saturday, loth. — We are off ! ! The Langenaus, 
 General Chanzy, and suites came to say good-bye at 
 the station. 
 
 [Lord Dufferin returned to Petrograd in June. 
 The following are a few extracts from his letters to 
 me during his absence. — H. D.] 
 
 July loth, 1879. — It being a fine day, yesterday 
 I determined to go off to Tsarskoe-Seloe and see the 
 Schouvaloffs. They were very glad to see me, and 
 ordered out their carriage and drove me through 
 the park, or rather, round the succession of parks 
 that surround the cluster of palaces inhabited by the 
 several members of the Royal Family. 
 
 Tsarskoe seemed to me a dull place. The villas, 
 and the grounds which surround them, being very 
 large, give a gloomy and desolate appearance to the 
 localifey. The parks also, though nicely laid out and 
 well kept, have the air of green dullness, such as 
 Irish demesnes so often wear. There was a lake in 
 the Emperor's park, on whose banks were congre- 
 gated a collection of all the different kinds of boats 
 that have been invented by the various nations and 
 tribes of the universe. 
 
 July ijth. — ^To-day I have been on an expedition, 
 not a very prosperous one, as the weather was 
 miserable, cold, and wet. 
 
 Grosvenor and I, with a certain Baron Koehne of 
 the Hermitage, went off to Peterhof to see palaces 
 and the pictures inside them. We had agreed to 
 go by sea, and to return by land. In about twenty 
 minutes we were in comparatively open water, and 
 
1879] PETERHOF 39 
 
 I should think there would be many an occasion on 
 which the passengers would be very ill. Even as 
 it was, with the wind off the land, it was rather jumpy. 
 We saw Cronstadt on our starboard bow, and the 
 masts of what, I suppose, were ships of war. After 
 a traversee of about an hour and a quarter we 
 arrived at our destination. The parks and garden 
 which surround Peterhof and the neighbouring 
 palaces are very pretty with avenues, fountains, 
 statues, and other adornments. Peter the Great 
 seems to have had a fancy for building to himself 
 a little miniature palace on every spot that took 
 his fancy. The first we visited was Mon Plaisir, 
 which is kept pretty much as he left it. It is close 
 to the shore, and is on the same plan as Sans 
 Souci at Potsdam. 
 
 Then we visited a house which I believe is called 
 the Farm. It is the private habitation of the Em- 
 peror when he goes to Peterhof, and both inside and 
 outside has the appearance of a handsome Isle of 
 Wight villa, with some modern French pictures, and 
 a good many family photographs. 
 
 Then we went to the Cottage, another villa where 
 the Cesarevitch has his abode. We finished off with 
 the Palace of Peterhof. In this there were some 
 magnificent rooms, a splendid dining-room, and ball- 
 room ; but the most curious thing was a hall, whose 
 walls are covered as closely as they can be stuck 
 together, as though upon a screen, with oil portraits 
 of all the beauties whom the artist could lay his 
 hands on. Not, indeed, that they are very pretty. 
 They are in every attitude, and display every pos- 
 sible expression, some crying, some laughing, some 
 sentimental, some coquettish. Each picture being 
 only separated from its neighbour by a narrow wooden 
 band, the effect was very unpleasing, like that of 
 a nightmare. No repose, and no breadth of colour. 
 4 
 
40 CRONSTADT [ch. i 
 
 Attached to the Palace is a chapel, where they 
 showed me the keys of Tashkend, a Central Asian 
 city recently conquered by the Czar's troops. They 
 must find the climate very different from what they 
 are accustomed to, and, to show their spite, have 
 already begun to rust. 
 
 I forgot to mention that in one of Peter the Great's 
 little pleasure palaces there was a table which 
 mounted by machinery from the kitchen below to 
 the dining-room above. The plates, or rather, the 
 centre of the table, performed this evolution. Each 
 plate did the same, and its owner had in front of 
 him a string, which pulled a bell, and, as each bell 
 had a different note, the cook always knew which 
 of the guests it was that wanted his plate changed. 
 
 Petrograd, July iSth. — ^This morning I went on an 
 expedition with Count Lutka, his wife, and some 
 other men to see the imperial yacht at Cronstadt. 
 Fortunately it did not rain, though the sky was 
 very much overcast. It took about an hour and a 
 half to reach the quay at Cronstadt, which is a pretty 
 big one at the head of the gulf. The wind being 
 easterl3» off the land, we had a smooth passage, but 
 it is sometimes so rough that the steamboats dare 
 not put to sea. The yacht is a tidy enough vessel, 
 not so fine as the Osborne as a ship, but very com- 
 fortably arranged, airy, sweet, and clean. We after- 
 wards went on board a corvette which had just 
 returned from Japan, the captain of which showed 
 us the photographs of a number of Japanese ladies, 
 which were rather interesting. Then we took a turn 
 round the harbour in a steam launch, passing round 
 a couple of turret-ships, and one or two torpedo- 
 boats, and so back to dinner on board the royal 
 yacht. 
 
 July 2Sth. — ^All the morning I sat with M. de 
 Giers over a map, and the Asiatic boundary of 
 
1879] FETE IN THE SUMMER GARDENS 4! 
 
 Turkey. Then I wrote some telegrams, and at five 
 o'clock started off on a dinner expedition to Mr. 
 Clark, who lives on the way to Peterhof. He is an 
 old-established English merchant, he and his family 
 having lived at Archangel for three generations. 
 The rest of the company consisted of Schweinitz, the 
 Danish Secretary, Grosvenor, and one or two sons 
 of the house, and a pleasant Russian General. 
 Schweinitz was rather interesting, telling us stories 
 about old General Moltke and the Austro-Prussian 
 War, in which he took part. 
 
 One day, at a Council of War, another General 
 objected to a suggestion of Moltke 's on the ground 
 that it was dangerous, upon which Moltke said reflec- 
 tively, " Yes, yes, war is a dangerous thing, a very 
 dangerous thing." 
 
 July 2Sth. — Yesterday was a beautiful day, bright 
 sun and nice fresh, dry wind. After breakfast, I 
 sent for a horse and went out for a ride. They gave 
 me a wretched, tumble-down creature, and I expected 
 every moment he would be on his knees ; but, with 
 all that, I enjoyed the ride very much. The roads 
 and lanes were crowded with people in holiday cos- 
 tume, and as most of them wore cotton prints, pink 
 or white, every place looked gay. There are a great 
 diversity of rides and park-like drives among the 
 islands. Indeed, I lost myself going home, thanks 
 to a policeman who would not understand my 
 Russian. 
 
 In the afternoon there was a fete and fancy fair 
 under the auspices of Countess Adlerberg, held in 
 the Summer Gardens. I went there for an hour in 
 the afternoon, and again for another hour after 
 dinner. The place was crowded, and there were 
 bands in every corner. A Punch and Judy Show, 
 and I believe the gipsies, although I did not come 
 across them. But what was rather interesting was 
 
42 ORANIENBAUM [ch. i 
 
 a lot of soldiers, who, standing round in a small 
 circle, kept singing the whole time what I suppose 
 were national airs. They were all in the minor key, 
 and, consequently, pleased my unsophisticated ear. 
 Towards the end of the singing one of them got a 
 tambourine and began beating on it, whilst another 
 danced. I have a good deal of business on hand 
 for to-day. 
 
 August 8th. — In the afternoon I went off to the 
 Grand Duchess Catherine at Oranienbaum. On 
 arriving at the station one of her gentlemen came to 
 meet me, and asked whether I had brought a servant 
 with me. This caused me rather a shock, as I had 
 come in a frock-coat, and it looked as if they had 
 expected me to dress. However, I told him " No," 
 and that I hoped my not having on a wedding 
 garment would be excused. We then drove up to 
 the Palace, and they turned me into a little suite 
 of rooms where, for want of something better to do, 
 I washed my hands, then the carriage came round 
 again to the door, and I was driven off to a smaller 
 palace, which is the residence of the Grand Duchess. 
 This i!^ really a very pretty place, the prettiest of 
 all the palaces I have seen, and used to be inhabited 
 by Catherine before she became Empress. All the 
 decorations are in the rococo style, and in good 
 preservation . 
 
 After dinner we went into the garden, where there 
 was a lawn- tennis court ; none of them could play, 
 but I taught them as well as I could, and showed 
 them how to strike the ball. We then drove in 
 carriages round the park, and eventually adjourned 
 to the terrace of the big palace, where we had tea, 
 and after tea we played at intellectual games. 
 
 August i2th, 1879. — I was sorry I could only 
 manage one little line to you yesterday. I hope 
 you will not be disappointed ; the reason was that 
 
1879] KRASNOE 43 
 
 I was all day on horseback, engaged in military- 
 pursuits, 
 
 Sunday afternoon, I went to Tsarskoe and dined 
 with the Schouvaloffs, and late in the evening I 
 drove to Krasnoe like a Roman Emperor, sitting in 
 a car with four horses harnessed abreast. I arrived 
 about eleven, and found a charming bedroom and 
 ante-room, and a quantity of servants awaiting to 
 receive me, including Nowell, whom I had sent on 
 straight from Petrograd by an earlier train. The 
 house is a handsome villa which has been built ex- 
 pressly for the reception of Ambassadors on these 
 occasions, and all my colleagues are as well accom- 
 modated as myself. I immediately went to bed, 
 and slept till eight. 
 
 Next morning Nowell came with a little dejeuner 
 of tea and rusks. At nine I was dressed, and found 
 a carriage waiting to take me to the place where 
 our chargers had been sent on to, a couple of miles 
 off. On arriving at the spot I found a brilliant staff 
 of about a couple of hundred officers in every variety 
 of uniform, as well as the representatives of two or 
 three other European Armies, who had been sent by 
 their respective Governments to assist at the Russian 
 manoeuvres. In about half an hour we saw the 
 Emperor's caleche approaching in the distance, upon 
 which we formed two lines, the foreign contingent 
 on the one side and the staff on the other. As soon 
 as the Emperor had mounted we followed in his 
 wake, until we reached a great plain of undulating 
 turf, five or six miles long and as many broad. The 
 morning was devoted to the inspection of the cavalry, 
 of which there were about five or six thousand under 
 arms. I will not describe their evolutions ; it is suffi- 
 cient to say, nothing could be more beautiful than 
 the way in which they alternately massed themselves 
 into columns, spread out into line, changed their 
 
44 THE MANOEUVRES [ch. i 
 
 front, and charged their imaginary foes ; but there 
 was one thing very remarkable — each regiment was 
 mounted upon horses of a uniform colour and 
 shade, black, bay, and grey. This gave an additional 
 glory to their appearance. In the centre of the 
 plain is a small truncated portion of earth, on 
 whose top the Emperor eventually took up a posi- 
 tion. They had given me a very quiet horse, with 
 a good mouth and easy paces, so that I had no bother 
 no matter what noise or disturbance was taking 
 place around me, and, as I had already known a 
 great number of the officers, there was always some- 
 body near at hand for me to talk to. When the 
 whole thing was over the Emperor rode up to 
 each regiment in turn, and expressed his approval, 
 upon which the entire regiment sang out in 
 reply, " We thank you very much, we hope to 
 do better next time.'' This sentence is taught 
 them, and these interchanges of compliments 
 were repeated several times during the day's 
 proceedings. 
 
 About twelve the show was concluded, and we 
 got into our carriage and drove back to Krasnoe. 
 Next to our villa, there is a large hall where we all 
 lunched. Prince Galitzin was the one who did the 
 honours. After lunch every one retired to their 
 respective quarters, the Russian officers to sleep ; 
 but I had my mail to attend to, which kept me so 
 busy that half -past three o'clock, the hour named 
 for our getting on horseback, again overtook me 
 before I had time to write to you. 
 
 We again got into our carriages and drove to the 
 same place, but this time it was to witness some 
 artillery and rifle- target practice. Naturally this 
 performance was less lively than what we had already 
 seen, nor from a professional point of view was it 
 so satisfactory, as the shooting was certainly bad. 
 
1879] THE MANOEUVRES 
 
 45 
 
 We got home just in time to wash our hands before 
 dining with the Emperor. Indeed, I was a httle 
 late, and everybody had already sat down before I 
 reached his house, but it did not matter, as the 
 etiquette is not strict on these occasions. In the 
 evening I went to the theatre, and for the first time 
 witnessed a Russian play; it was a farce, and the 
 story was easy enough to understand, the acting 
 being decidedly good. After the farce there was a 
 very pretty ballet, the result being that we did not 
 get to bed before half-past twelve. 
 
 This morning I was called at six and dressed by 
 seven, ratthng off, as before, in a carriage to the 
 rendezvous, for the horses. The programme of the 
 day was even more splendid than yesterday's per- 
 formance. 
 
 The entire force, horse, foot, and artillery, was 
 arranged in two divisions with a view of attacking 
 an imaginary enemy. Our Hne of battle must have 
 been seven or eight miles wide. At first the right 
 wing advanced its artillery to some convenient 
 heights, and, after blazing away for half an hour, we 
 hurled our cavalry at the foe ; but the attack was 
 repulsed, and both guns and dragoons had to retire. 
 Soon after, however, the left wing commenced its 
 advance. Nothing could have been prettier than to 
 see the several batteries discover themselves among 
 the woods in the far distance, by their unexpected 
 puffs of white smoke. Indeed, the way in which 
 the whole field of vision became imperceptibly 
 peopled with battalions was extraordinary. Catch- 
 ing first a head here and then another there, in 
 the short brushwood before us you gradually 
 perceived, as the eye wandered on, that the place was 
 alive with scattered pelotons of tirailleurs, then whole 
 regiments advancing in loose formation, wave upon 
 wave, round two-thirds of the vast arena, while the 
 
46 THE MANOEUVRES [ch. i 
 
 distant horizon became fringed with thunder, smoke, 
 and fire. 
 
 At the commencement we took up a position in 
 an old redoubt where the enemy was supposed to 
 be making a stand, and from this point of vantage 
 we watched our foes gathering round us nearer and 
 nearer, until, with a wild rush, thousands of men 
 shouting at the top of their voices, cleaving the open 
 space which lay between the cover and the bastion, 
 before we knew what had happened, were in 
 amongst us. It was very beautiful, but this was a 
 mere outwork that was captured. We then retired 
 with the Emperor, and all his staff, to the same 
 mound he had occupied the day before. This time 
 he asked us to come up and stand beside him, and 
 then if possible the spectacle became even more 
 striking. The artillery from all sides approached 
 nearer and nearer, the two corps of infantry, into 
 which the army had originally been divided, drove 
 down upon us in a joint attack, and at last, dashing 
 through the intervals of the regiments, the light 
 brigade on one side, the heavy dragoons on the 
 other ^ide, the entire cavalry charged simultaneously 
 upon the flying foe. This last performance was really 
 splendid. There must have been from six to seven 
 thousand horsemen engaged in the operation, and 
 the rapid movement of such warriors, their breast- 
 plates and helmets glittering in the sun, with the 
 shouts of their commanders, produced an effect which 
 it is impossible to describe. 
 
 This concluded the day's doings. We descended 
 from our eminence, mounted our horses, and followed | 
 the Emperor, while he expressed his approval, in the 
 same manner as I have already described, to his 
 various battalions, and then drove back to lunch 
 in the same way as the day before. 
 
 August 14th. — I wrote you a very shabby letter 
 
i879l A MILITARY STEEPLECHASE 47 
 
 this morning, but when I tell you what I did yester- 
 day, you will better understand the reason. 
 
 All the morning I was engaged in knocking off 
 the arrears of business which had accumulated while 
 I was away campaigning, and it was not until five 
 o'clock that I was able to start by the train to 
 Krasnoe, where I was invited by the Emperor to 
 attend the Military Steeplechase. When I reached 
 the spot I found a concourse of people, which really 
 reminded me of Ascot, and I very much regretted I 
 had not got away earlier. There was a row of very 
 handsome and convenient stands filled with people, 
 and the scene looked very gay and lively ; all the 
 officers, being in uniform, contributed a good deal 
 more colour to the picture than we can boast of on 
 a similar occasion in England. As soon as the 
 Emperor caught sight of me in the crowd, he sent 
 an aide-de-camp down to ask me to go up into his 
 own box. I do not know, however, but that I should 
 have seen more if I had been elsewhere, as one was 
 scarcely at liberty to put oneself in the best place. 
 There were only one or two falls, but, just as the 
 horses passed the Emperor's stand, two of them 
 swerved, and their riders were pulled off their backs 
 by ropes which lined that part of the course. How- 
 ever, nobody was a bit the worse. 
 
 This finished the affair, and I then went off to dine 
 in the great hall, where I had already dined the two 
 previous days with the officers of the Emperor's 
 staff. 
 
 After dinner we went to the theatre, where we had 
 rather an amusing play, which I was able, with some 
 little assistance from my neighbours, to follow 
 pretty closely, and there was an excellent ballet. 
 The performance was not over till past twelve, and 
 when we got to the station we had to wait for 
 another hour until the ballet-dancers and actresses 
 
48 A DAY'S SHOOTING [ch. i 
 
 had changed their things and got some supper. It 
 was amusing to see them all arrive accompanied by 
 devoted friends in uniforms, carrying the enormous 
 bouquets with which they had been presented on 
 the stage. 
 
 To-day I have been very busy getting off my 
 courier, and sweeping up all my outstanding corre- 
 spondence. To-morrow I am invited again to go to 
 the wars. What are called the great manoeuvres are 
 now about to begin . They are to consist of the siege 
 of Tsarskoe by one force, and its defence by another. 
 The Neva is to be crossed, and I daresay there will 
 be a good deal that is interesting. 
 
 August i$th. — I have just returned from a day's 
 shooting with M. Paulotsoff who called for me at 
 eight in the morning, and drove me out to a little 
 villa just beyond the island. We then each got 
 into a cart, he going one way and I another. After 
 rather a bumpy drive of half an hour, I found myself 
 in a kind of prairie district, great breadths of which 
 were covered with a stunted vegetation of birch, 
 alder, etc. I had a couple of pointers with me, a,nd 
 after a good deal of tramping, I killed four wood- 
 cock and three white partridges. All this was done 
 on a cup of chocolate. After an hour's rest I again 
 resumed my labours, but got very little shooting 
 during the rest of the day. I have just returned to 
 the Embassy, very glad to find myself in a com- 
 fortable arm-chair. 
 
 August i6th. — I dined last night by myself, and at 
 nine o'clock started for Tsarskoe, finding, of course, 
 in the train all my brother warriors. Instead, how- 
 ever, of going straight to the palace, on my arrival 
 I paid a visit to the Schouvaloffs, and, as a conse- 
 quence, had some difficulty in discovering my rooms, 
 my modesty having prevented my asking at the 
 main building, if I lived there. This, however, I 
 
1879] MORE MANCEUVRES 49 
 
 found to be the case, and was soon very comfortably 
 installed in a handsome apartment on the ground 
 floor. They offered me tea, which I declined, as I 
 was very tired and wanted to get as much sleep as 
 possible, inasmuch as I was told we were to be in 
 the saddle at four o'clock the next morning. It 
 turned out not so bad as this, our start not taking 
 place till six. We had an hour's ride to the place 
 where our horses had been sent to. The operations 
 are supposed to consist of a hostile army attacking 
 Krasnoe, the place where the recent reviews were 
 held ; but as a preliminary proceeding, it must 
 make itself master of Tsarskoe. The first thing the 
 attacking force had to do was to cross the river, and 
 this was the only thing at all striking in the morning's 
 spectacle. This part of the business was, however, 
 really very pretty. The river, making a bend and 
 having a high bank on one side, gave a picturesque 
 character to the scene, and we had an excellent view 
 of the crowds of men first putting the pontoons 
 together, and then rowing them across full of 
 soldiery, while a battery of artillery protected the 
 proceedings. The force on our side was compelled 
 to retire in the face of superior numbers, and we 
 had rather a long, tiresome ride homewards, and 
 then another spurt which concluded the performance 
 for the day. It is now half-past one o'clock, but 
 something has gone wrong with the breakfast arrange- 
 ments, as we are to be provided with food in our 
 apartments. As yet there is no appearance of any- 
 thing of the kind. 
 
 August lyth. — ^After closing my letter of yesterday, 
 I took a stroll through the palace, which has got no 
 pictures or ornaments of any sort, but is remarkable, 
 as most Russian palaces are, for a succession of 
 magnificently large rooms. The rest of the after- 
 noon I spent in reading and writing. There does 
 
50 A REGIMENTAL FETE [ch. i 
 
 not seem to be any change of the Emperor's plans 
 in contemplation, in which case I shall start, I sup- 
 pose, on the 28th; but I may perhaps stay another 
 day in Berlin to see the Princess of Prussia, as she 
 sent me a message to let her know when I pass 
 through. 
 
 August 20th. — I have just returned to Petrograd 
 with all my laurels. I must begin with Monday. 
 It was the first day consecrated to the fete, that is 
 to say, to the first regiment of Foot Guards. We all 
 assembled on foot in the courtyard of the palace at 
 twelve o'clock. It was a beautiful day, and the 
 whole place was flooded with light. In the midst 
 of the Grande Place an altar had been erected, round 
 which were assembled three priests, and a couple of 
 dozen acolytes with four standards of the regiment 
 being planted before it. A solemn Mass was then 
 chanted, which had a very fine effect, the priests 
 blessed the colours and sprinkled them with holy 
 water, and then came the review. This being con- 
 cluded, we adjourned to a great field where tents had 
 been erected, and rank and file, as well as all the 
 staff, were given a breakfast by the ofiicers. The 
 entertainment concluded with a few toasts, after 
 which we separated. 
 
 The rest of the afternoon I spent in visiting the 
 Schouvaloffs and one or two other people, and at 
 six the Emperor entertained the officers of the regi- 
 ment, whose fete we had celebrated at a banquet in 
 the great hall of the palace. 
 
 On Tuesday the battle, which had lain dormant 
 since Saturday, was recommenced. We got up at 
 seven, and drove, as usual, half a dozen miles to where 
 our horses were awaiting us. The military incidents 
 of the day were not very striking, but, the weather 
 being lovely, the early outing was very enjoyable. 
 At twelve the fighting ceased, and we sat down to an 
 
1879I END OF THE MANCEUVRES 51 
 
 al fresco breakfast in the shadow of a wayside school- 
 house. The Emperor entertained us at his table. 
 
 On Monday evening, after the banquet, we went 
 to the play. The theatre is a lovely little one, done 
 up in the Chinese fashion by Catherine, and is in the 
 same state as she left it. The first piece was rather 
 stupid, but there was a pretty ballet. During the 
 entr^acte we were sent for to the salon off the 
 Emperor's state box. The Ambassadors were told 
 to sit at the Emperor's own table, where there were 
 one or two ladies. 
 
 This morning we were up again pretty early, and 
 had a very interesting day ; but I will not bore you 
 further with military gossip. We again lunched at 
 the Emperor's. During the morning he had asked 
 me very civilly about you, and again later he took 
 me aside and talked to me a little about the political 
 situation, being very kind and conciliatory in his 
 language both as regards the Queen, the country, 
 and myself personally. Most of my fellow warriors 
 returned to town by the 2 o'clock train, but I remained 
 behind to pay a long visit to Madame Schouvaloff, 
 whom I found alone. I have enjoyed my outing 
 extremely. I have made a number of pleasant 
 acquaintances and increased my intimacy with a 
 good many of the diplomats. The fresh air and 
 exercise have done me good, but I feel rather in 
 want of a good night's sleep. 
 
 [August 24th. — The Ambassador returned to Eng- 
 land on leave. — H. D,] 
 
 MY RETURN TO PETROGRAD 
 
 November, 20th. — Nelly and I had to leave Paris 
 early this morning. We had a very comfortable coupe 
 to Cologne, and there we met Mrs. Hall ^ and the four 
 1 Children's nurse. 
 
52 JOURNEY TO PETROGRAD [ch. i 
 
 children in charge of one of Cook's couriers. We had 
 time to dine, and then we settled into two little 
 cabins in the train, containing four berths each. The 
 line was rather rough, and we were a good deal 
 shaken. We reached Berlin early in the morning 
 and drove to the Kaiserhof, where we all had baths 
 and breakfast. 
 
 Friday, 21st. — I then took the children out in an 
 open carriage for a couple of hours and showed them 
 the town. I had visits from Lady Odo Russell and 
 Madame de Schweinitz, and dined at the Embassy ; 
 Lord and Lady Odo were quite alone and I was in my 
 travelling dress. I returned to the hotel at nine, 
 and we all got ready for a fresh start. The train left 
 at 1 1. 1 5 p.m., and we packed into our little berths 
 and had a very good night. 
 
 Saturday, 22nd. — ^The children were as good as 
 gold all day, not the least bit troublesome or irritable. 
 They enjoyed the picnic in the train, and all the 
 little incidents of the journey, and thought the time 
 went quickly. At 4.30 we reached the Russian 
 frontier, and changed carriages. We were treated 
 with the utmost civility by the tall Russian who 
 keeps the line, and the change of scene, the tea and 
 rest were very pleasant. We were now shown into 
 certain " blue carriages " which are wonders of 
 comfort — no jar and no noise. 
 
 Sunday, 22,rd. — ^We found it rather difficult to feed 
 so many mouths to-day. The breakfast was brought 
 into the car — bread, and hot tea in glasses, which we 
 were told we must drink in five minutes. Then we 
 only had fifteen minutes for dinner, and the little 
 ones did not get through much in that time, and we 
 had to finish up in the car with cake and chocolate. 
 At 6 p.m. we arrived at Petrograd, well, and in 
 the best of spirits. All the Embassy met us, and 
 we drove home, the children much interested in the 
 
1879] SETTLING INTO EMBASSY 53 
 
 coachman's dress, and in every other novelty. Victoria 
 expressed her contentment at being in a town and 
 not at Clandeboye, — " where there is nothing to see 
 but trees." The children's rooms have all been 
 cleaned and painted, and are extremely comfortable 
 and nice. 
 
 Wednesday 26th, Thursday 2yth, Friday 2Sth. — I 
 have spent every morning in arranging furniture 
 and in unpacking. There seem such endless things 
 to settle. I have also received some visits and have 
 paid some. I have been twice to the Schouvaloffs, 
 and they have been here : she, to pull about my 
 chairs and tables, and he to choose the furs for the 
 sleigh. While she was here one day, a dancing- 
 mistress arrived, who is to give the children lessons, 
 but I found she only knew Russian, and a few French 
 words, such as chassez, balancez, etc. She did 
 not appear to think this an insuperable objection, 
 and I got Madame Schouvaloff to interpret for me. 
 To-day the lesson was given, and I am told it was 
 excellent, though of course the language is a difficulty. 
 
 I have had visits from the Langenaus, who are 
 leaving Russia, much to their regret, and from 
 Madame Chanzy, the new French Ambassadress. 
 Yesterday, when I went to call on the F.'s, they were 
 alone, and immediately began to tell me how Madame 
 Chanzy had not called upon them. They seemed 
 to hope that I would speak to her, but I believe they 
 are in the wrong, so I shall keep out of the discussion. 
 They paid me heaps of compliments, but at the same 
 time told me they did not care a fig for an Ambassa- 
 dress unless they liked her personally, which is horrible 
 treason, of course. 
 
 Thursday evening I had my Embassy to dinner. 
 We tried the cook and the dining-room, and things 
 went off pretty well. After dinner we were prin- 
 cipally engaged in arranging the furniture, a most 
 
54 A TROIKA DRIVE [ch. i 
 
 absorbing subject. I am keeping all descriptions 
 till things are really settled. 
 
 December yth. — ^We went to church, and afterwards 
 as it was such a lovely day I determined to take the 
 children a troika drive. We hired one, and set off, the 
 five chicks, Mrs. Hall, and myself, and a Russian coach- 
 man with whom we could not converse ; but when 
 I made him a sign to go faster he gave a shout and 
 set off at such a pace that the family screamed with 
 delight. Basil looked startled for a moment, and 
 then said, " I thought the wolves were after us." 
 We all came home with white hair and eyelashes. 
 The frost was very severe. 
 
 Monday, Sth. — ^As usual — ^visits. I went to see 
 Madame Pahlen, and lent her nice daughter a book. 
 On my way home I saw Madame Schouvaloff, and 
 told her we had received a telegram to say D. would 
 start on Thursday. We are all jubilant ! 
 
 I attended a dancing-lesson and took Victoria. 
 Hermie did well, but Basil did not distinguish him- 
 self. The funny little Russian mistress, not being 
 able to speak French, shouts out " Basil," and alarms 
 and confuses him. She accompanies her shout by 
 imitating him. She likes Victoria, and kisses her 
 even when she does badly. 
 
 Tuesday, 9th. — I went first to Madame F., who 
 amongst other things said, " We count upon you, 
 Lady Dufferin, to amuse us this winter." Then to 
 an American lady, who amused me, first, by saying 
 that she was so lonely here that she " cultivated " 
 our Embassy as a sort of forlorn hope, and then, 
 when I said that I did not sleep quite so well here as 
 usual, by asking me if I ever took a " soak " (bath), 
 and by recommending me to eat an orange in the 
 night . 
 
 I had a great " lark " in the evening, which I must 
 describe to you. I was invited by the Plunketts to 
 
1879I A RESTAURANT PARTY 55 
 
 join a troika party, and happily the weather was 
 perfect. It was scarcely freezing, and very fine. 
 You understand by this time that a troika is a 
 large sleigh drawn by three horses abreast, the two 
 outside ones cantering, while the horse in the shafts 
 trots. (Don't let me have to repeat this.) We set 
 off, in two troikas, Mr. Plunkett and I, Lord Frederick 
 Hamilton and a Danish secretary in one, and Mrs. 
 Plunkett, Lord William, Mr. Kennedy, and " M. le 
 Jonkheer van der Staal de Hiershil," Dutch ditto, 
 in the other. We had a delightful drive, and in 
 about an hour and a half arrived at a sort of restaurant 
 where we were shown into a magnificent ball-room 
 with a splendid floor, and most lively dance music 
 played on the piano by a man. Of course we had 
 a few good dances, " to warm ourselves," and then 
 we went into a dining-room, and were provided with 
 a first-rate dinner, opened by an excellent Zakouska 
 caviare, oysters, etc., etc. After this, as the music 
 still went on, we danced again, and, as we were two 
 ladies and six gentlemen, we ladies had the hardest 
 work. Some other couples were there, but they 
 seemed to think it more amusing to look at us. At 
 half-past ten we started home, and had a lovely drive 
 back. Between the dance and the start Lord Frederick 
 sat at the piano imitating an opera, amusing us very 
 much. 
 
 Wednesday, 10th, — I went out in my sleigh. It is 
 not nearly so comfortable or so large as the Canadian 
 ones. The coachman sits on a sort of bar covered 
 over with the end of my fur rug, it being black bear 
 inside and out, no cloth about it. The Chasseur, in 
 cocked hat, sword and belt, stands behind. 
 
 The whole family was dressed in its best, and we 
 
 were all ready to meet D. when he arrived. He spent 
 
 the night at Bismarck's " ramshackle " abode, and 
 
 had two hours* long talk with him upon European 
 
 5 
 
1 
 
 56 SOCIAL EVENTS [ch. i 
 
 politics, which was very interesting and amusing. D. 
 slept next night at Dantzig and the third in the train. 
 I am happy to say that he is delighted with the house. 
 We had the Plunketts, Lord William Compton, and 
 Mr. Kennedy to dinner, and had singing and talking. 
 
 Thursday, iSth. — Such a lovely day, just freezing. 
 I had to be " at home " in the afternoon, and had 
 twenty-nine visitors ; but, as I always see people if 
 they come at five, I do not have so many on the 
 " day," which is a great comfort. D. had to go 
 and see Prince Gortschakoff after dinner. 
 
 Saturday, 20th. — ^We had a visit from Prince 
 Gortschakoff. The old gentleman arrived in evening 
 dress, brass buttons, and a magnificent diamond 
 order. He was full of compliments, as usual, telling 
 D. that if he would take his place he would give 
 up his portfolio at once ; calling Nelly, who was 
 introduced to him, my eldest sister, etc. ; and asking 
 me to keep his visit secret, as he did not go anywhere 
 else. 
 
 In the afternoon D. and I went to the Usopoff 
 gardens to skate. It was only just freezing, and was 
 very pleasant. I soon recovered my skating powers, 
 and enjoyed a couple of hours' exercise very much. 
 There' were very few people at that hour, and they 
 were English. 
 
 Monday 22nd. — ^We are very busy now making out 
 lists of dinners, and preparing for the official reception. 
 We are going to invite a party of English to dine on 
 our New Year's Eve, and the big reception is to be 
 the night before. 
 
 We dined with the Schouvaloffs to meet M. Labanoff, 
 the new Ambassador to England : as it happened he 
 was unable to come to dinner as he had to go to the 
 palace, but he came in the evening. We were only 
 five for an excellent dinner. 
 
 Tuesday f 2-^rd. — Hanging pictures all the morning. 
 
1879I A BALL 57 
 
 In the afternoon I took the children to Madame 
 Schouvaloff, who had a party for them. The prin- 
 cipal game consisted in throwing 100 india-rubber 
 balls at each other, and I introduced " Mulberry 
 Bush " to the Russian world. They had a cup of 
 ( chocolate and a biscuit each, and came home at 
 four. 
 
 Wednesday, 24th. — I went out for a walk with the 
 children. We lost our way, and had to take two 
 little sleighs. I did not know my address in Russian, 
 so I said " Kaisan " to the driver, and he took me 
 to that church ; once I got there I was able to point 
 out the direction in which we wished to go, and so we 
 got home. 
 
 Thursday, 2$th. — (Not Christmas Day.) No, this 
 was not our Christmas. It was the most awful day, 
 rain and wind, and I did not go out at all. From 
 two till six I had visitors, and then a dinner at seven. 
 First came the old peace-loving Prince d 'Oldenburg, 
 and then all through the afternoon one person after 
 another, sometimes the room being quite full. 
 
 Saturday, 2'jth. — D. and I went to a dancing-party. 
 In our ignorance we arrived there at 10.30, and, 
 finding the preparations going on, and the lamps 
 unlighted, we almost went home again. The extreme 
 discomfort of this step overcame my shyness, so I 
 went up, and we had three quarters of an hour at 
 least tete-d-tete with our hostess. This was, I may 
 say, my first dance here, and I was interested in the 
 arrangements and in looking at the people. I 
 waited on and on to see the Mazurka, and after all 
 only just saw it begun. In the refreshment- room I 
 found tea and biscuits, and when two o'clock arrived 
 I began to think there was to be no supper. I found, 
 however, that there is a sitting-down meal at four in 
 the morning ! ! This is an odd arrangement for people 
 who dine at six. Of course I went supperless to bed. 
 
58 OUR OFFICIAL RECEPTION [ch. i j 
 
 Monday, 2gth. — ^The da37 promised badly ; it looked 
 cold and windy, and, as we had a troika party on 
 foot, I was rather unhappy about it. However, I may j 
 tell you at once that nothing could have been more 
 charming than the weather. We assembled here at 
 six o'clock, a party of twelve. The Italian Am- 
 bassador has a private troika which he lent me, and 
 we had two others, and we drove along very merrily 
 to Oserki, where after the usual warming-up dance 
 we had a magnificent Zakouska, and a grand dinner. 
 Then we danced polkas, waltzes, quadrilles, and Sir 
 Roger) had tea, and played " innocent " games, winding 
 up with " Russian scandal." Every one was very 
 lively and merry, and they were delighted with the 
 party ; they are very seldom so gay here. When 
 we got back to Petrograd we dropped our guests 
 at their various houses, and were in bed about 1*30. 
 Fred says these parties sound to him like a cross 
 between a " surprise party " and a happy day at 
 Rosherville. 
 
 Tuesday, $oth.^ — Now I have to tell you of a very 
 different affair — our official reception ! ji 
 
 We were busy all day, furbishing up everything, 
 and putting finishing touches everywhere. 
 
 I have not time to describe the house to-day, but it 
 really looked lovely at night, and was much admired. 
 
 We were dressed by six, and at that time came 
 four court officials, two for me, two for D., and they 
 explained to us what we had to do and where to 
 stand. 
 
 The scene of our performance was the large, empty 
 (unfurnished) drawing-room. It has two big doors 
 opposite each other ; the people were to come up 
 the stairs, pass through two bright and well-lighted 
 ante-rooms, through my drawing-room, by one door, 
 and into the ball-room by the other. D. was placed 
 by the first door with his two guides, and I was 
 
1879] OUR OFFICIAL RECEPTION 59 
 
 opposite him on the other side of the door with my 
 two gentlemen in splendid uniforms. 
 
 When the people came in the gentlemen stopped 
 and were presented to D., and then came on to me, 
 whereas the ladies came straight to me and had 
 nothing to say to the Ambassador. 
 
 The ball-room soon became a gay scene, all the 
 gentlemen being smothered in golden uniforms, and 
 through it people could pass into the dining-room, 
 where a very substantial refreshment was provided 
 them. They seemed pleased, said that they enjoyed 
 it, and, instead of going straight away, they remained 
 till twelve, and made quite a pleasant party of it. 
 
 On the stairs were twelve footmen wearing our 
 liveries — at the top the two chasseurs in a costume 
 too gorgeous for description, any amount of gold, 
 breeches and boots, sword, etc. In the dining-room 
 about twenty butlers who volunteered their services. 
 I wore white brocaded satin, and my tiara, D. his 
 Lord- Lieutenant's uniform. 
 
CHAPTER II 
 
 THE WINTER AT PETROGRAD 
 
 Wednesday, January ist, 1880. — I wish you all a 
 very happy New Year 1 Ours is a sort of muddle 
 between an old and a new year, as to the foreigners I 
 it is New Year's Day, to the Russians it is not. We 
 had a small dinner of ten, the Laws, Beauclerks, and 
 Embassy. We played whist till eleven, and then 
 we went to a party at Madame Santos, where at 
 twelve we all shook hands with each other. There 
 was dancing ^t)ing on. 
 
 Thursday, 2nd. — Basil and Freddy and I took a 
 drive in the sleigh to " La Pointe," which is a place 
 from which you see the Gulf of Finland, and in 
 summer all the world drives there to look at the 
 sunset. _ All the afternoon I had visitors. I am in 
 despair about my own "morning calls"; I have at 
 least 600 to pay, and I feel bewildered. 
 
 We dined with the Grand Duke Vladimir. The 
 Grand Duchess is very pretty and nice. We were 
 a party of twelve ; D. and I went in with our host and 
 hostess. The table was very plain, three candelabra, 
 three dishes of fruit, straight down the middle, that 
 was all. After dinner smoking and talking till about 
 nine, when the Grand Duchess got up, and we left. 
 
 Friday, -^rd. — I went out shopping with Madame 
 Schouvaloff. As Christmas is next Tuesday the 
 shops were very full, and it was very tiring dragging 
 oneself about in an enormous velvet and fur cloak. 
 
 60 
 
i88o] CHRISTMAS SHOPPING 6i 
 
 We bought things to put on a Christmas-tree, and 
 when we came home at five I had to rush off to pay 
 my devoirs to Madame de Langenau, and then to 
 scurry back to dress for dinner at the German 
 Embassy. 
 
 The Langenaus were there, Madame in a magnificent 
 pink gown, which every one admired. I wore black 
 velvet. Generally people go away after they have 
 been fed, but a few of us stayed on, and adjourned 
 to M. de Schweinitz's study, a very nice room, where 
 we talked till midnight. 
 
 January 4th. — ^More shopping, and in the afternoon, 
 as it was too mild for skating, I sent the children out 
 in a troika to see the Christmas preparations in the 
 streets, and to do their own shopping. Every man, 
 woman, and child has a Christmas-tree here, so the 
 streets are lined with them, all ready decorated, the 
 poorest ones only with paper rosettes, and all the 
 shop windows were gay with golden and glittering 
 trifles. 
 
 We had a banquet with some very rich people. 
 They have a very fine house, had lots of flowers on 
 the table from their own conservatory, chickens from 
 one end of France, truffles from another, and all that 
 sort of thing. 
 
 Wednesday, Sth. — I began my official round of visits, 
 starting with an enormous bundle of cards, a long 
 list, and a pencil, and I got through about twenty. 
 Happily between three and four every one was out, 
 but after that I began to find them in, and I did not 
 get on so fast. 
 
 In the evening we had our first big dinner. There 
 were twenty-six people, and though all the servants 
 are so new, it went off very well, and the cook is 
 approved of, which is a great comfort. The gentle- 
 men come out of the dining-room with the ladies, and 
 then retire to the smoking-room. They stay a very 
 
62 THE ICE HILLS [ch. ii 
 
 short time (till 9.30), so there is not much of an 
 evening. D. and I went to a dance, and were not 
 home till 5.30; but we sat up " on business " to see 
 how the thing was done. A great deal of time is 
 wasted, as the windows are opened between each 
 dance, and every creature had to leave the ball- 
 room while it was being aired. Here the gentleman 
 only gives " a turn " to a girl, and does not ask her 
 for a whole waltz. I think it answers rather well, 
 and makes a ball lively. 
 
 Wednesday , 22nd. — I went with Madame de Lan- 
 genau to visit a hospital. The newest idea (to me) 
 in it was an arrangement for receiving the children 
 of poor women who are invalids in the hospital during 
 their stay there. The children, being themselves in 
 good health, and being very well cared for, looked 
 so happy and comfortable. 
 
 Thursday, :^oth. — Ninety visitors ; busily engaged 
 from 1.30 till six. Then read to the children, dined, 
 and went to French play ; it was a pretty piece {Le 
 Fils de Giboyer) and well acted. 
 
 Friday, ^ist. — In the evening D. and I started off 
 in our sleigh to the Ice Hills, where Lord William 
 and three other gentlfemen were giving a party. As 
 we approached we saw the place illuminated, and, 
 upon mounting some stairs, we found ourselves in a 
 good-sized room at the top of a " Tobogganing 
 slide." The " slide " is of ice, and here the hills 
 are arranged so that you go from one to the other 
 and always find yourself at the foot of the staircase 
 up to the second slide. All the English people were 
 there and they " tobogganed " in every sort of way, 
 backwards, forwards, kneeling, sitting, lying, stand- 
 ing, on two sleighs, on three, on four or on six, or on a 
 piece of carpet. I refused to go down till near the 
 end, when I thought I must try it, and, as the hills are 
 a much gentler slope than those at Ottawa, I liked it 
 
i88o] A THAW 63 
 
 and continued the amusement. The gentleman sits 
 in front and the lady kneels behind him, with her 
 hands on his shoulders. Mulled claret was pro- 
 vided and afterwards there was supper. We came 
 home at twelve ; the night was very fine and 
 pleasant. 
 
 February '^rd. — ^There is such a thaw, the most 
 unseasonable weather. You may imagine how un- 
 usual it is, when I tell you that a great wooden 
 establishment just built upon the Neva, for trotting 
 races which always go on in January and February, 
 has given way, and had to be taken down. The 
 streets are impossible to walk in, but the sun shines, 
 so one must not complain too much, though (to recur 
 to the dark side of affairs) these thaws are very 
 unhealthy, and result in a resurrection of smells 
 hitherto buried in the snow. In the morning I 
 attended to my visiting accounts, and having made 
 out a list of eighteen debts to be paid, I went the 
 round and got through them all, so I am tolerably 
 free for the week ; that is to say, till Thursday, when 
 fresh names are added to my book. This reminds 
 me of a saying of Victoria's which shows the social 
 atmosphere in which she lives. She was telling 
 me that the French nurse had been to see her friend, 
 the wife of a coachman, — and says Victoria, " I think 
 it must have been her reception day, for there were 
 several other visitors there." 
 
 Friday y yth. — I saw Miss Corry, who is in waiting 
 on the Duchess of Edinburgh, her cold is so bad she 
 could not dine with us to-night. Captain Haig 
 came, and at nine o'clock the " pupils " arrived for 
 our Mazourka lesson. We have determined to learn 
 that national dance ! The class consists of about ten 
 men, and four ladies. Our teacher is a Pole, who 
 dances the Mazourka in the ballets, and who is grace 
 itself. The ladies only have two steps to learn, the 
 
64 DINNER AND DANCE [ch. ii 
 
 gentlemen about six. It is very pretty, and has a 
 great deal of " go " about it. 
 
 Wednesday, nth. — Ks I knew that from five o'clock 
 I should be rather hard worked, I took care of myself 
 in the early part of the day and neglected many of 
 my social duties. People always arrive punctually 
 for dinner at seven, and on this occasion our guests 
 were English ; we asked the rest of the " Colony " 
 in the evening, and all the Diplomatic Corps, and 
 we had a very nice dance. We had the Mazourka, 
 and a cotillon and Sir Roger, and all the people 
 who don't generally dance (myself included) did 
 dance, and it was very lively. Dancing here is very 
 hard work, as you do not give your partner a whole 
 dance, but only a turn, so a fresh one appears the 
 moment you stop, and you have to go on again. 
 Certainly under this system there is no ball-room 
 conversation or flirtation possible, and the quadrilles 
 are even less restful than the fast dances. 
 
 Friday, i^th. — ^We went with Prince and Princess 
 Andre Lieven to " L'ficole des Mines," where we saw 
 specimens of the Russian minerals, and below, models 
 of the mines. We had to walk about with lighted 
 candles^ and passed through imitation coal, gold, and 
 copper mines. 
 
 At the end, I was presented with a dagger of Russian 
 workmanship, and D. and M. Nigra each with a 
 magnificent sword. They said it was the custom of 
 the Institution. 
 
 Tuesday, February lyth. — ^We dined at the Chanzys', 
 and the evening became historic. 
 
 M . de Giers ^ heard a noise before leaving his house, 
 and though he seems to have thought it was at the 
 Palace, he did not go himself, but sent his servant. 
 During dinner a message came to say there had been 
 an explosion " of gas " in the Winter Palace, and 
 
 ^ Foreign Minister. 
 
i88o] EXPLOSION IN THE PALACE 65 
 
 before we left in the evening, the report reached us 
 that thirty people were killed. We hurried home, 
 and found Captain Haig in our house. He told us 
 that he was just going to dress for dinner, when he 
 saw a flash of light and his window was blown in ; 
 he looked out and found all the passages dark and 
 full of smoke. The servant entreated him to go 
 back lest he should be killed ; but he got a light, and 
 went to see what had happened. The explosion 
 took place two stories below the Emperor's dining- 
 room and was arranged to take place during his 
 dinner. However, the Prince of Hesse was late, and 
 instead of being at table the Emperor and his guests 
 were having Zakuska in the outer room. There was 
 not sufficient damage done to the Emperor's room 
 to have hurt him had he been there, but the windows 
 were all broken. In the room beneath this the guard 
 was dining, and, as far as they knew last night, six 
 men were killed and nineteen severely wounded . Two 
 enormous holes have been made, and on the way to 
 Miss Corry's room a great gulf is opened. Mercifully, 
 the Empress slept through it, and will know nothing 
 about it ; it would have killed her had she known . 
 
 Miss Corry's maid had just gone to dinner, and 
 was in a room by herself when the lights went out, 
 and the doors and windows were burst open. 
 
 D. put on his uniform and went to the palace, 
 where he saw the Emperor and Duchess of Edinburgh 
 and Miss Corry. Captain Haig asked his Russian 
 servant what he thought of it, and he said, " Oh, 
 some one has been bought, the General most likely ; I 
 dare say he is in prison by this time." 
 
 We hear five carpenters who lived underneath have 
 been taken, and that one escaped. Had the wretches 
 succeeded in their designs they would have killed 
 the Emperor and all his sons, our Duchess, and the 
 Prince of Bulgaria and Prince of Hesse. 
 
66 VISIT TO THE DUCHESS OF EDINBURGH [ch. ii 
 
 Wednesday, iSth. — I went over to the Palace to-day 
 to call on the Duchess of Edinburgh. When I got 
 there I found there was a service going on, and I 
 asked the servants if they thought I could slip in 
 quietly ; they said yes, and off I went after one of 
 them. We went all through the Duchess's rooms, 
 and down endless passages, until at last I found 
 myself on the grand staircase : it was crowded with 
 people coming down, ladies in gorgeous dresses, 
 and gentlemen in still more gorgeous uniforms. I 
 was smart, but in a short dress, so I felt rather shy ; 
 but I could not speak to my guide and there was 
 nothing left but to follow him. Having run the 
 gauntlet of a whole astonished society, I found myself 
 at the door of the great drawing-room, and there 
 even my guide began to falter, and just as I was 
 wondering what I had better do the whole party of 
 royalties came out — so I made a curtsey, and they 
 all shook hands with me, and I spoke to our Duchess. 
 When they were gone I said to my guide, " Miss 
 Corry." He understood, and we started off again 
 through all the grandees to find her room. 
 
 This time I met Prince Lieven, who looked 
 immensely astonished and discomfited at my presence, 
 as it is his business to take in charge Ambassadresses 
 when they come to the Palace, and to find one roaming 
 about alone was quite improper ! I hurried back to 
 the Duchess's rooms, and there met Captain Haig, 
 who took me to see the ruins. 
 
 Exactly above the big room was the Emperor's 
 dining-room, and above the explosion is a great hole, 
 but, as the roof was arched, it has not actually gone 
 through the ceiling above. 
 
 There is a hole in the outer wall of the room down- 
 stairs and a crack in the wall of the room above. 
 Below, the guards were dining, and the whole of 
 them were simply swallowed up in the ruins ; forty- 
 
i88o] NIHILISTS 67 
 
 five were taken out, six already dead ; I believe six 
 more have already died, and many more may do so. 
 
 I went afterwards to see various people. All are 
 much agitated, and there is a feeling of horror every- 
 where, especially as it is thought that more efforts 
 will be made before the 19th, the Nihilists having 
 always stated that they would kill the Emperor 
 before that date, the twenty-fifth anniversary of his 
 reign. 
 
 Yesterday the Nihilists got out a sheet in which, 
 after first of all avowing that they ordered the ex- 
 plosion, and that a few days ago they had murdered 
 a spy, they advise all persons valuing their lives to 
 keep as far as possible from the Emperor ! 
 
 At the time of the " Dynamite Plot " the Com- 
 mandant of the Palace was missing, and was not 
 found for two hours. The story now told is, that he 
 was going upstairs in a lift when the explosion 
 occurred, that the men who were sending him up ran 
 away, and that he remained shut up in his cage in 
 mid-air, until accidentally released by some new 
 passenger wanting the machine. (This is true.) 
 
 A curious thing discovered now, in this land of 
 Dvorniks and passports, is, that in the Palace the 
 servants and their families have been making money 
 by letting out the corners of their rooms to homeless 
 vagabonds ; and it is only a wonder that more 
 Nihilists have not been living there. 
 
 A despotic dictator has been appointed, Loris 
 Melikoff by name. He has power of life and death 
 in his hand, but whether it is a step in the right 
 direction, or whether he can do any good, is a doubtful 
 question. 
 
 Since writing the above he has been shot at ; his 
 coat was touched, but he was not hurt. 
 
 The would-be assassin was at once taken prisoner, 
 and made no resistance. 
 
68 A COURT CEREMONY [ch. ii 
 
 February 2gth. — ^The Duke of Edinburgh came to 
 see us, in a smart Russian Lancer's dress. 
 
 Tuesday, March 2nd (19th February). — ^The twenty- 
 fifth anniversary of the Emperor's reign. We re- 
 ceived invitations to go to Court to " congratulate " 
 him, so by 11.30 I was in my court plumes, and D. 
 and I drove off to the Palace. That miserable class 
 of beings called " Diplomats " were shown into one 
 room by themselves and there remained seeing 
 nothing, while the great procession walked into the 
 chapel, where a " Te Deum " was sung. Then we 
 were marshalled into another room, and arranged 
 in a circle according to our diplomatic rank, the ladies 
 on one side, the gentlemen on the other. When the 
 Emperor came in he went all round us, speaking to 
 all the Ambassadors and Ministers, and thanking the 
 ladies for having come. He was followed by the 
 Court, the Grand Duchesses in Russian costume, and 
 all the maids of honour and ladies in the same. It 
 is very handsome. The head-dress is a high velvet 
 band, like a diadem, covered with embroidery or 
 jewels, with a veil flowing from the back ; the body 
 of the dress and the train are velvet, with gold and 
 silver embroidery. 
 
 The Cesarevna wore cloth-of-gold trimmed with 
 dark fur. The maids of honour all wear crimson 
 and gold. We did not see them very well as they 
 passed us in a crowd. Heaps of people were there, 
 and all were very proud of their courage in coming. 
 The Emperor seems well, but speaks very asthmatic- 
 ally. Nothing happened in the way of fire or murder, 
 and the illuminations, etc., went off well. The only 
 drawback was a thaw, which prevented people from 
 enjoying the holiday. 
 
 Wednesday, -^rd. — ^We have been to a wedding. 
 The ceremony was at the house of our semi-detached 
 neighbour, the Prince d 'Oldenburg. The chapel 
 
i88o] DUKE AND DUCHESS OF EDINBURGH 69 
 
 is very small, so there was not a very good view 
 of the ceremony. Last year I described a Greek 
 Church marriage, so I will not do so again. The 
 bride was much kissed afterwards, and we all rushed 
 frantically about with champagne glasses, trying to 
 touch hers. Then we went on to the house of her 
 aunt, who brought her up, and there we were expected 
 to do the same again. The bridegroom is in the 
 Diplomatic Service, and they go off to Spain to-night. 
 
 It was on my return from this that I heard of the 
 attempt to murder Loris Melikoff. He was at our 
 door at one, leaving cards. 
 
 Friday, ^th. — I have been busy arranging our dinner 
 for the Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh. Lord William 
 Compton was not back from his bear- shooting, so I had 
 to settle the order of precedence at the table myself, 
 and as a General very high up in the social scale was 
 carried off at the last moment by the Emperor, it 
 all had to be done twice over. I let the four younger 
 children appear so that Victoria might present the 
 Duchess with a bouquet, and they all made the most 
 admirable curtseys and bows. 
 
 Everything went off very well, but the Duchess 
 was not able to stay for the Mazourka lesson. It was 
 very lively, and lasted till two. People seem to 
 enjoy themselves here very much, and I am now 
 being asked for invitations, which is terrible ! 
 
 Saturday, 6th. — ^To-night there was a fancy ball given 
 by Countess Kreutz. I copied a Sheridan picture with 
 a Gainsborough hat ; the dress was perfectly plain, 
 white Indian muslin, Leghorn hat, no ornaments, 
 powder, mittens, and a long cane. It was quite 
 different from the other costumes, and was so com- 
 fortable that I danced all night I 
 
 Some of the dresses were very pretty ; there was a 
 sun who looked very handsome with golden rays from 
 her head, ancient Russian dames — a " Cenci," (very 
 
70 CARNIVAL WEEK [ch. ii 
 
 pretty). You will be fearfully shocked when I tell you 
 I got home at 6 a.m. ! 
 
 March Sth. — I am now settling a little dance for 
 Wednesday, and sit with my nose in my visiting-book, 
 making lists, and hardening my heart against people 
 who will be expecting to come ! 
 
 Lord William has returned, having (with his 
 friend) killed seventeen bears. He and Lord Frederick 
 and Miss Corry dined with us last night. She said 
 that after the fancy ball, when she was breakfasting 
 with the Emperor, they asked her all about it, and 
 said, "I suppose you got home late?" "Yes." 
 They suggested three o'clock, and went on guessing 
 till they arrived at six, when they jeered at her ! 
 She had been dressed as Snow, and had her own 
 hair, which is lovely, down her back ! 
 
 I hope you don't imagine this is Lent ; no, it 
 is Carnival week, and all next week we shall do 
 nothing. 
 
 Wednesday, loth. — My first ball here ! Rather a 
 nervous affair. Who will come ? When will they 
 come ? and so on. I have begun a crusade against 
 the late hours, and had put " lo o'clock " on my 
 card, and had asked many people to attend to it, so 
 I felt it was possible we might be about twenty 
 ladies and no men, or vice versa, between ten and 
 twelve. However, people were most civil about it, 
 and at 10.30 we began to dance, the party gradually 
 swelling up to 250. The ball was a success, and we 
 hope we have not offended any one. 
 
 The dancing went on with great spirit till 5.30 ! ! 
 At 1.30 we had the Mazourka, which lasted an hour 
 and a half, then supper. It was in the supper -room, 
 which we opened for the first time. We had round 
 tables holding ten each, and seated 147 people. 
 There was a short cotillon afterwards, and we were all 
 dropping with fatigue at the end. I got my black 
 
i88o] THE CARNIVAL 71 
 
 lace fearfully torn by the real spurs which officers 
 wear here. 
 
 Thursday, nth. — I was naturally very tired, but I 
 did not like to shut my doors on " my day," so I had 
 a lot of visitors, and regiments of young officers 
 whom I had asked last night. 
 
 We dined with our landlord and semi-detached 
 neighbour, Prince Soltikoff. We can get through 
 our house to his, and the Princess is a very pretty, 
 charming person. The dinner was more Russian 
 than any I have been to. Some guests failed, and 
 there was a great alarm about our being thirteen ; 
 we sat down twelve, but a brother arrived, and the 
 governess had to be sent for. After the soup we 
 had a dish of round pancake to be eaten with melted 
 butter, sour cream, and caviare. It was very good 
 without the sour cream, but I believe that is generally 
 added by Russians, 
 
 Friday, 12th. — On the "Champs de Mars" at the 
 back of our house a quantity of little wooden theatres 
 have been put up for the Carnival, also merry- 
 go-rounds, tobogganing hills, and all sorts of amuse- 
 ments. We determined to visit them, so Nelly, 
 D., Lord William and I went off to see the sights. 
 I was quite surprised to find how good the 
 theatre was. 
 
 The scenery and dresses and acting, all excellent, 
 very comfortable seats, and a ballet. The dancers 
 had long sleeves to their under- garments, and their 
 poor hands looked very red from out of these flesh- 
 coloured coverings. The theatres are built on snow, 
 and are very cold. The performance lasts about 
 twenty minutes, and as soon as one audience comes 
 out another goes in, and the play begins again. 
 
 Saturday afternoon. — ^We took the whole family out. 
 First of all to the merry-go-rounds, and then we 
 adjourned to another theatre, where a military 
 6 
 
72 A CUSTOM OF THE COUNTRY [ch. ii 
 
 spectacle was going on. We saw the crossing of the 
 Danube, the taking of a spy, the release of a quantity 
 of Bulgarian women captured by the Turks, and 
 various other historical incidents. Then we bought 
 coloured balloons, and on our way home we saw all 
 the Emperor's carriages, taking the school-children 
 out for a drive. I suppose there were thirty 
 carriages, all with six or four horses, postilions, 
 coachmen, and footmen, and a crowd of girls in green 
 dresses and red hoods in each. 
 
 March 14th. — In the afternoon Nelly and I went 
 to the hospital, and then to see Madame Schouvaloff, 
 whose mother is very ill at Baden ; she is going to 
 her on Tuesday. I shall feel quite lost without her 
 here, as I go to five o'clock tea with her at least 
 every other day, and she and her husband are both 
 so very kind to us. 
 
 Tuesday, 16th. — Lord Frederick Hamilton and Mr. 
 Kennedy came back from a bear-shooting expedition. 
 They did not kill their bear, but they saw some of 
 the customs of the country. They had to sleep in a 
 hay-loft, and were invaded by all the women of the 
 village, who came in a body to toss them. Seizing 
 hold of them, they threw them up in the air and 
 then gaught them, the victims having to pay to be 
 released. This is considered an honour which is 
 paid the visitor. 
 
 Lord Frederick then amused them by putting 
 lighted matches in his mouth, etc., so next day the 
 women tossed them again. 
 
 When paying a visit the other day I heard some 
 rather interesting things about Loris Melikoff ; he 
 has been in 163 battles. When appointed, all the 
 Ministers (over whom he is put) went to call upon 
 him, except one, and he, when presented to Loris 
 Melikoff at the Palace, said he was very busy, and 
 regretted not having had time to call ; the new 
 
 i 
 
i88o] LORIS MELIKOFF 73 
 
 " Dictator " replied, " Pray don't mention it, M. 
 le Comte ; when I want you, I will send for you ! " 
 
 Another anecdote of him. At Kharkoff, one day, 
 a student passed him without saluting. He stopped 
 the young man, and said, " Do you not know you 
 have to salute all Generals ? " 
 
 " I did not know you were a General." 
 
 " You know very well who I am ; now go home 
 and tell the Head Master what has happened." 
 
 This he did, and the master being asked a few days 
 after by Loris Melikoff what he had done, said, " Oh, 
 I have expelled him." 
 
 Then the General said, " You are here to teach the 
 boys their duty, and not to send them away when 
 they fail in it : send for the young man at once, and 
 take him back." And, in a couple of days, the master 
 himself was removed I 
 
 We went to a china manufactory. There is nothing 
 very pretty to be seen at the place. The Emperor 
 pays so much a year, and the manufactory is bound 
 to supply all the china for all the palaces, and for all 
 the employees of the royal family, so the whole time 
 is taken up with these orders, and the officials say 
 bitterly, " No wonder we make no money." I think 
 we saw them at a particularly cross moment, for they 
 are just finishing off the Easter order for 5,000 eggs. 
 These are made of china, some of them beautifully 
 painted, and they have a ribbon run through them, 
 but they are not even boxes. Much time and art are 
 expended upon these useless things. We could not 
 buy one, as they all go to the Palace, and are given 
 away on Easter Day, 
 
 Wednesday, 24th. — I have just returned from the 
 most delightful expedition, which I must try to 
 describe to you. 
 
 On Sunday night at ten o'clock, we started — D. 
 and I, Lord Frederick Hamilton, and Mr. Kennedy — 
 
74 BEAR-SHOOTING [ch. ii 
 
 and our object was bear-shooting. We knew of one 
 bear, and had a royal permission to shoot another 
 which had been heard of in the same neighbourhood, 
 and there were rumours of two cubs and their mother 
 somewhere about. We left Petrograd by train and 
 reached a station called Luban at one o'clock. There 
 we packed ourselves into sledges, two in each, and 
 drove all the rest of the night, reaching our destination, 
 " Ostroff," about six o'clock. We were able to sleep 
 a little in the sleighs, as one was almost able to lie 
 down in them. It was painfully cold, but, being 
 well wrapped up, we arrived warm and comfortable, 
 and were quite ready for our breakfast, which Nowell, 
 who got there first, had prepared. We found our- 
 selves in a largish village, all the houses being wooden, 
 log-houses in fact, with large projecting gables, and 
 some carving about them ; but, on the whole, looking 
 dull and shabby. The only bit of colour in the 
 place was the church, the cupolas of which were 
 painted a bright green. The surrounding country 
 is very flat, bad soil and woods of thin maypoles, 
 either fir or birch. The house in which we were lodged 
 looked the same as the others, but there was one good 
 room which they gave us ; it was a plain wooden 
 room, quite empty. We got a table and four stools, 
 and we each brought a camp bedstead, and our 
 provisions. The ** boys," that is Lord Frederick, 
 Mr. Kennedy, and Mr. Clark, had a similar room in 
 another part of the town, and when I went to see it 
 I visited the owner's living-room, which was an 
 excellent specimen of a Russian peasant's house. It 
 was very small, and about a fifth of it was taken up 
 with the oven, or stove, which is built of brick, and 
 which is also the family bed ; they all sleep on the 
 top of it. At the end of a long, flexible pole, hung 
 a baby in a cradle ; it was ill, and they could get no 
 doctor, as that functionary only comes to see grown- 
 
i88o] BEAR-SHOOTING 75 
 
 up people. There were two other nice children, one, 
 a dear little girl, with clean white shirt, printed 
 skirt, and little red handkerchief tied round her 
 head. Lord Frederick, who had been here before, 
 brought these children some sweets, and afterwards, 
 when he turned out to be the fortunate person to 
 kill the bear, the father said to him, " You killed it 
 because you brought my children those things." 
 The reward of virtue ! 
 
 Well, we had our breakfast, and immediately 
 started after our bear. This time we went in common 
 carts, with hay in the bottom of them ; we were a 
 great procession, as we had all the beaters following, 
 that is, seventy men and women. The latter wear 
 coloured handkerchiefs on their heads, sheepskin 
 coats (the skin outside) made like a gown, with a 
 waist and skirt, very short print skirts, white petti- 
 coats, and top boots of felt. I was an object of 
 great interest to them ; I wore top boots the same 
 as theirs, a thick Ulster coat and fur cap. When we 
 were near the place, we got out of the sleighs ; the 
 buzz of conversation ceased, and we all walked 
 silently through the wood, in very deep snow, till 
 we were put in our places for shooting. The system 
 is this. A peasant finds a bear, and the animal 
 becomes his. He comes up to Petrograd to sell it, 
 and a sportsman buys it ; ours cost £6. For this 
 money the owner is obliged to give the purchaser 
 a good shot at it, for if he does not see it, or get a 
 chance of shooting it, he does not pay. He, the 
 owner, marks exactly where the animal is, and then 
 the beaters form a semicircle round it, and the guns 
 are placed along the line. On this occasion D., I, 
 and Mr. Clark were in the centre. Mr. Clark was not 
 to shoot unless some accident happened. 
 
 The silence continued until all was ready, and then 
 there broke upon the stillness a volley of shrieks and 
 
76 THE BEAR [ch. ii 
 
 shouts, and guns going off, and dogs barking ; it 
 was most exciting, and one was kept watching anid 
 expecting all the time, and occasionally above the 
 noise one would hear " The bear 1 the bear ! " and 
 then you knew he had been seen, and you redoubled 
 your attention. 
 
 This bear was very wily, and was a long time 
 appearing, so that our excitement was subsiding and 
 we were beginning to think he had escaped, when 
 D. said, " What is that ? " and there in front of us, 
 but rather far for a good shot, I saw him lumbering 
 calmly along. It was so interesting ! As he was 
 making straight for Lord Frederick, D. thought it 
 best not to shoot, and a moment after we heard a 
 shot, a groan, and shouts of triumph ! All the beaters, 
 etc., were so excited, and, to my intense amusement, the 
 women seized Lord Frederick, and tossed him up and 
 down in the air like a baby. Then they rushed at Mr. 
 Kennedy, who resisted and succeeded in evading 
 them, but the first moment he was off his guard they 
 all seized him and tossed him too. D. and I got off 
 on this occasion, but, after returning to the village 
 and eating our lunch, we were about to take a walk, 
 when 'we found at least fifty women surrounding 
 the door, and no possibility of getting out without 
 going through the ceremony. I don't think I ever 
 laughed so much ! They seized me very nicely, 
 holding down my petticoats, and not letting go of 
 me, but only dancing me up and down. No one 
 escaped. 
 
 We gave them something to drink our healths, 
 but Lord F. was too generous, the result being 
 that some of the men got drunk. In this state they 
 are most amiable — and they kissed the bear, and 
 hugged each other most affectionately. 
 
 We visited the church, and the court house, and 
 walked about till dinner, and went early to bed. I 
 
i88o] RETURN TO PETROGRAD 77 
 
 bought some native towels, which are much em- 
 broidered, and had my " boudoir " almost cram-full 
 of sellers. 
 
 At six next morning we were ready for breakfast, 
 and at seven we started off in our sleighs . We found 
 that the Government bear was already dead, so we 
 went after the mother and young ones. We had a 
 delightful drive, the day being too lovely I a bright 
 sun and glistening snow. 
 
 When we reached the spot we found that the she- 
 bear had caught the alarm and was off, but the little 
 ones remained. We got into our places and at the 
 first shot they scampered out. I saw them beauti- 
 fully, but a most terrible thing happened — tell it not 
 in Gath — no less than ten shots were fired at them, 
 and they escaped uninjured ! 
 
 The sportsmen were very unhappy and immensely 
 astonished ! and I don't think they have got over 
 it yet I 
 
 Then we fired at marks (to show what we could 
 do), and walked back to the sleighs, drove three miles 
 to the station, and were home at ten. The whole 
 thing was perfectly delightful. I believe that when 
 they heard that I had gone the Petrograd ladies 
 thought I was mad ; and I fear that when they see 
 how very sunburnt I am, they will not be encouraged 
 to follow my example ! 
 
 Friday, 26th. — We had a command from the 
 Emperor to dine at the palace. The cards said 
 " 6 heures," " en frac et cordon," " robe montante," 
 and so in these costumes and at this hour we went. 
 The Duchess of Edinburgh and the Cesarevna, and 
 four Grand Dukes were there. I went in with the 
 Grand Duke Alexis, and sat by the Emperor in the 
 room that was intended to have been blown up. 
 The Emperor is always so very kind and pleasant, 
 and talks so easily, that I enjoyed my dinner very 
 
78 DINNER AT THE WINTER PALACE [ch. ii 
 
 much. D. sat by the Duchess of Edinburgh. The 
 Emperor described to me all about the explosion, 
 and asked about my bear and my Mazourka, and told 
 me some funny stories about the Shah of Persia's 
 visit here. 
 
 After dinner he talked to D., but the whole thing 
 was over at 7.30. Then I came home to what was 
 to have been a very small Mazourka party ; but, as 
 people do not dance in Lent, we resolved to do some- 
 thing else, but I felt rather nervous about the success 
 of the evening. We began at ten, and went on till 
 three (imagine it !) playing innocent games — " Magic 
 Music," " Clumps," " Dumb Crambo," etc. It really 
 was too ridiculous, but our guests delighted in these 
 amusements, and I think I must try them at " Mul-' 
 berry Bush." 
 
 We never thought of going on so long, but 
 when D. proposed to me at twelve to have some 
 supper I was overwhelmed with suggestions about 
 various games, and saw no one was thinking of j 
 going. As I dined at six, I was pretty hungry for 
 supper at three. 
 
 We dined with Princess Dolgorouky, almost a 
 family party. It was very pleasant. People here 
 are very easy to talk to and they enjoy getting up a 
 discussion on some matter of opinion, such as " whether 
 women understand women better than men do ' 
 " whether a man knows a man better than a woman 
 can " ; " whether as a rule people improve upon 
 acquaintance, or the reverse " ; " whether the voice or 
 the * regard ' gives the truest impression of a person's 
 feelings," etc. 
 
 Monday, 2gth. — ^We got a box for a Russian Opera, 
 called La Vie pour le Czar, in which the Mazourka 
 is danced. That was quite lovely, so spirited and 
 original, but I thought the Opera itself heavy, especi- 
 ally one act, where an old gentleman sings by himself 
 
i88o] THE "CHEVALIERS GARDES" 79 
 
 in a wood during the whole act ; I longed for him to 
 lie down and go to sleep, and he finally did so. 
 
 Tuesday, April 6th. — ^This is the fete-day of the 
 " Chevaliers Gardes," and we were asked to attend 
 the ceremony with which they celebrate it. We went 
 to their Riding-school, and at the door I was pre- 
 sented with a lovely bouquet, as were all the ladies 
 invited. Then I was shown up to a raised " box " 
 at one end of the enormous place. 
 
 The building was beautifully decorated with flags 
 and arms, and at each end of it were two stands for 
 ladies. One could, however, only just make out that 
 there were ladies opposite, so large is the building. 
 The regiment ranged the whole way round the place. 
 The uniform is beautiful, white tunics with red 
 facings, dark trousers with red stripes, and a brass 
 helmet surmounted by an eagle. In the centre of 
 the long square was an altar, candles, and some 
 priests in gorgeous array, and, in another part of the 
 great space, an enormous staff of officers, Ambassadors, 
 guests, etc., etc., all in different uniforms. 
 
 When the Emperor came in, and the band played, 
 and the men all shouted together some sentence of 
 welcome, it was a grand and touching scene. The 
 Emperor and the staff walked all round the troops 
 and then there was a religious service with chanting. 
 
 The soldiers crossing themselves continually had 
 a most curious effect, and at first one could not 
 imagine what all the long white gloves were waving 
 about for. After the Emperor and the Grand Dukes 
 had kissed the cross, and a picture, the Metropolitan, 
 followed by another priest holding a golden bowl of 
 water, walked down the ranks with a great brush in 
 his hand, which he kept dipping in the bowl, and 
 with which he sprinkled the soldiers. They crossed 
 themselves when they felt the drops. 
 
 The priests then went away, the altars were re- 
 
8o TELEGRAM FROM THE QUEEN [ch. ii 
 
 moved, and a marching past began. It was most 
 beautiful to see the golden helmets flashing as the 
 regiment passed up and down the school, and Colonel 
 Villiers says he never saw anything smarter than the 
 men were, or in fact ever saw so lovely a military 
 spectacle. The gentlemen were asked to lunch with 
 the regiment. 
 
 In the evening we went to a Charity Concert, which 
 does not call for much remark. 
 
 Tuesday, 13/A. — ^This week I have spent in nursing 
 the children and myself, as we have all had bad colds. 
 D. has been bear-hunting, and only came back last 
 night. He left on Thursday evening with Colonel 
 Villiers, and Baron Bechlolsheim, and went a long 
 way off, had an exciting hunt, and D. and Colonel 
 Villiers each got a bear. Colonel Villiers came back 
 on Saturday, and Lord William and Mr. Kennedy 
 joined D. and went off in another direction. D. was 
 again fortunate in killing a bear, which animal behaved 
 in a most extraordinary manner ; after having a 
 bullet right through him, he climbed a tree, and was 
 shot at again in that elevated position. D. enjoyed 
 the holiday immensely. 
 
 On Sunday, I was surprised by receiving a telegram 
 from the Queen, asking how I am after my " fright 
 with the bear " — and all my letters now are full of the 
 ridiculous story which has appeared in the papers, 
 reporting that Lord Frederick Hamilton killed the 
 bear at my feet. 
 
 Monday, igth. — I set off this morning on a house- 
 hunting expedition, a summer place being wanted 
 for the children. I left Petrograd at nine o'clock, 
 and arrived at Narva, an old fortified town, on a 
 fine river, at 2.30. Our Consul and his wife met me 
 at the station and hurried me down to a small steamer, 
 he coming on board with me, and taking me to 
 Oustia. We were an hour getting there, and, as the 
 
i88o] AN EXPEDITION 8i 
 
 weather was fine, it was very pleasant on the river. 
 Landed, I had some lunch, and then drove to a house 
 which a friend had recommended to me. He was 
 most anxious to go there with me, but I absolutely 
 forbade it, and when I got to the house, I was very 
 glad not to have the landlord with me. It was a 
 most horrid house, in a thick wood, with access to a 
 lovely beach, but itself most uninviting. 
 
 I drove on farther and went over another, which 
 I like very much indeed. Having done my business, 
 I had twelve miles to drive back to Narva, and we 
 reached there at 7.30 p.m. 
 
 The Consul's wife gave me a most excellent dinner 
 and a most comfortable bed to lie down upon, where 
 I slept a little, but was called up again at 3.30 a.m., 
 and had to drive to the station. There I walked about 
 for an hour, and then had jftve very long and un- 
 comfortable hours in the train, to Petrograd. 
 
 Wednesday, 2Sth. — On awaking this morning I 
 found a desperate snow-storm going on, which was 
 serious, as we were to start on a sporting expedition. 
 Miss Corry came to breakfast with us early, and at 
 nine our hosts arrived to fetch us. They are a charm- 
 ing young couple, Narischkine by name, and a M. 
 Tchoglokoff was associated with them in their 
 hospitality. Miss Corry and I were provided with the 
 most enormous and the longest of top-boots, and we 
 had plenty of wraps, in spite of which the three hours' 
 voyage down the Neva in the snow was rather cold. 
 
 When we arrived at our destination we were re- 
 warded for our courage by finding the weather getting 
 quite fine, though too cold for good sport. The house 
 in which we were to spend the night is a villa on the 
 banks of the Neva, with an occasional chair and 
 table in it, and some bedsteads, but otherwise quite 
 unfurnished. 
 
 Next door to it is the ruined palace of Potemkin, and 
 
82 WOODCOCK [CH. II 
 
 we looked into its ball-room, now full of weeds and 
 small trees, and saw the vestiges of paintings on the 
 wall, and imagined the great Catherine amusing 
 herself there. It is difficult, however, to reconcile one's 
 ideas of splendour with the uncared-for and miserable 
 appearance of this country place. 
 
 Of course food was our first thought, and we soon 
 had a good lunch ready, which prepared us for the 
 labours of the day and night. 
 
 We were first of all to see what we could find in 
 the way of woodcock. The gentlemen started on 
 foot, Miss Corry and I got into a cart, drawn by two 
 horses, one being in the shafts, the other loose outside, 
 troika fashion, and Madame Narischkine followed 
 behind in another primitive machine. Our drive 
 was a wonderful one ; we were jolted, shaken, knocked 
 about, sometimes deep in the mud, sometimes rattling 
 over corduroy, sometimes wading through lakes and 
 rivers — laughing all the way. Madame Narischkine 
 jumped out at the first bad place, and, getting into a 
 mire, had to return home. We, strange to say, 
 arrived safely, very warm, and very much amused 
 by our adventures, though rather nervous at the 
 prospect of a similar drive back. 
 
 Of course, as is the case with all the " sport " I have 
 ever seen, we ought to have seen whole flocks of 
 woodcock, and we did actually see six. It was 
 rather interesting, however, as one heard the bird 
 coming, and could recognise its note long before it 
 appeared, and there was great excitement among 
 the guns until they had a shot at it. Our bag was 
 one woodcock ! 
 
 We got back rather more easily than we came, 
 and, as it was about lo p.m., we had a supper, and 
 then rested till midnight, when we started off again in 
 the well-known traps. D. went by himself with a 
 chasseur, and I will tell you his adventures first. 
 
i88o] CAPERCAILZIE 83 
 
 His object was " capercailzie." This bird is shot in 
 the middle of his love-song, the reason being, that he 
 is so interested in his own performance that he can 
 hear nothing else ; but, the moment he ceases to sing, 
 his hearing becomes acute. 
 
 The sportsman stalks him, and the moment the 
 song begins he runs in its direction, stopping dead 
 short when it ceases ; if he even puts his foot down 
 after it ends, the bird hears, and is off. The night 
 was too cold for serenading, and so D. walked and 
 walked, hearing nothing and unable to say a word 
 to his Russian chasseur. Once he was lost, and felt 
 like a babe in the wood, and at last he was obliged to 
 shout, even at the risk of disturbing all the birds of 
 the air ; then another time his guide left him alone 
 for an hour and a half while he went off to look about, 
 and during this interval, the keeper having taken 
 away his gun, D, saw the only bird that came near 
 him that night. 
 
 Now for our adventures I Miss Corry and I having 
 steeplechased safely through the mud and over 
 several ditches, arrived on a sort of com.mon, where 
 we got out, and were conducted to two little huts 
 formed of boughs. M. Narischkine and I were to be 
 together in one, Miss Corry and M. Tchoglokoff in 
 the other. I had to creep into mine on hands and 
 knees, and inside I found some pillows and cloaks, 
 and was requested to lie down and sleep till dawn. As 
 there was only just room for two, I could scarcely 
 keep my countenance when M. Narischkine began to 
 stretch himself out for a rest, especially when I thought 
 of Miss Corry and her companion in their hut. 
 
 They took to talking, and, as we could hear their 
 voices, my sportsman became greatly irritated, and 
 at last shouted out to them to be silent. Our object 
 was blackcock, and I was told that when the dawn 
 came I should see them playing round my hut. 
 
84 BLACKCOCK [ch. ii 
 
 Almost at the first faint glimmer of light I heard one 
 crow, then another, then several, then a sort of 
 cooing began all round one, and the flapping of wings, 
 and the birds came so close that I could see them. 
 Had we remained quiet another half-hour we should 
 have been surrounded by them, and, as the morning 
 was very light, I should have seen everything ; but 
 M. Narischkine fired at some bird which flew over 
 us, and then they went away, and never came back. 
 Still, that first half-hour was delightful. The stillness 
 first, and then the gradual awakening of nature with 
 its sounds and sights, and the dramas of which we 
 generally know nothing being enacted before our eyes ; 
 all the tricks and the manners of these living creatures 
 being revealed to us. I enjoyed it immensely, and was 
 quite sorry when we had to creep out of our holes, 
 and proceed after " gelinottes," of which we found 
 none. We went to bed at 6 a.m. and slept, being 
 very tired, till twelve, when we had breakfast, and 
 then got into our steamer and returned here. We 
 found news of all the new political appointments 
 made at home awaiting us. 
 
 April -^oth {Good Friday). — We went to church 
 in the morning, and in the evening I went with Lord 
 William to see the service in a private Greek chapel. 
 The singing there was beautiful, and the service was 
 very interesting. We were most kindly received 
 and shown into a sort of box off the church, where we 
 could sit down. The priests were dressed in black 
 and silver ; there was a coffin in the centre of the 
 chapel, and all the children of the family stood the 
 whole service through, two hours, the only change 
 they had being two or three prostrations they made, 
 touching the floor with their foreheads. 
 
 We were all given lighted candles to hold, and were 
 told that when the procession was formed we might 
 follow. There was a great deal of reading, some 
 
i88o] EASTER 85 
 
 singing, much crossing and bowing, all very devout, 
 and it was fine and touching when the coffin was 
 lifted and carried through the house, every one follow- 
 ing. We went through rooms full of the most lovely 
 pictures, and arms and gold and silver things, the 
 choir wailing, and each of us carrying a candle. I 
 almost wondered that they liked to see the un-Orthodox 
 taking part. When we got back to the chapel I 
 returned to my seat, and soon the service was over. 
 This is the most striking of the Greek services I have 
 seen. We sat, but the real worshippers have to stand. 
 
 Wednesday, May <-,th. — Miss Corry told me that 
 on Easter Eve, being on duty, she stood from 1 1 till 
 2.30 at night, and that she was ready to cry with 
 fatigue. She was given three kisses by the Emperor 
 and by the Grand Duke Serge. 
 
 The children spent two afternoons in colouring 
 eggs, and on Sunday we took them to give to the 
 hospital children. 
 
 Monday and Tuesday I paid a quantity of Easter 
 visits , and wrote down my name at all the palaces . The 
 weather is very fine and nice, and my whooping-cough 
 patients (Victoria and Freddy) get out a good deal. 
 
 The Bridge of Boats is being placed across the 
 Neva. It is just by our house, and I fear will make 
 our neighbourhood very noisy. It is not pretty 
 either, and rather spoils our view. 
 
 This afternoon we went to the fair, that is, D. and I 
 and the children. They had several rides on wooden 
 horses, and they also went into some chairs which 
 revolved windmill fashion. 
 
 We sent the little ones home after this, and Nelly, 
 D., and I went into one of the temporary theatres 
 where we saw a little piece capitally done, with 
 wonderful changes of scenery, and very good dresses. 
 In the evening Miss Corry and the Embassy dined 
 with us. 
 
86 AN EASTER FEAST [ch. ii 
 
 Thursday, 6th. — We were invited to an Easter 
 feast. It usually takes place in the night, or rather, 
 very early on Easter morning, and there are numerous 
 appropriate dishes, but our hostess kept up the dissi- 
 pation later in the week, and we were asked to 
 luncheon. She is very kind, but very " strealy," 
 and her lunch was like herself. First, something 
 went wrong, and at 1.30 it did not appear to be 
 ready, and the husband got impatient and said, 
 " It will soon be two, and we dine at six, and how can 
 I have any appetite ? " 
 
 She replied cheerfully, " Oh, oui, nous allons, nous 
 allons." 
 
 " Oh, oui," replied he, " nous allons, nous allons, 
 c'est comme un opera, n'est-ce pas ? " etc., etc. 
 
 At last we were shown into a big room, where 
 there was a dinner-table and a tea-table. We began 
 with a little soup, then cold veal, cold ham, hard- 
 boiled coloured eggs, cakes with doves sitting on them, 
 a cake in the shape of a Paschal Lamb, butter made 
 into fleecy lambs, and a kind of sour-cream-shape, 
 which is a favourite dish here. Afterwards came 
 some nice little cutlets. The only real novelty I saw 
 was burnt salt, which they have for Holy Thursday ; 
 it is black. 
 
 As soon as we had eaten enough lunch we removed 
 to the tea-table, and sat down there, drinking tea and 
 eating cakes. 
 
 Saturday, Sth. — I took some of the children to the 
 Botanical Gardens, and, after their town life, they 
 went into perfect ecstasies over the plants, especially 
 the well-known ones, ivy, daisies, dandelions, etc. 
 
 We asked M. Wassilitchki, the Curator, to show 
 us the Hermitage. He was an excellent guide, 
 showing us the best things both in pictures and anti- 
 quities, and not obliging us, as experts generally do, 
 to look at every fragment of dust, " which is 6,000 
 
i88o] PRESENTS TO THE CZAR 87 
 
 years old." I do not attempt to tell you about the 
 things described in so many good books, but as you 
 will not read in any of them a description of the 
 Emperor's twenty-fifth anniversary presents, I may 
 mention them. 
 
 They are in a room by themselves, the side of 
 which looks just like a fancy bazaar, displaying an 
 immense collection of what the Curator called " des 
 cochonneries," pocket-handkerchiefs, slippers, towels, 
 Oriental dresses, bits of em-broidery, filigree silver 
 bracelets, fur cuffs, mats, a bright green rug with 
 a yellow lion in the centre, etc., etc. Then there 
 were many religious pictures, ikons, and a present 
 from every town in Bulgaria, and heaps of addresses, 
 and an enormous centre-piece in silver and gold, com- 
 posed of coats-of-arms in many colours and other 
 ornaments, which is interesting as being a present 
 from a ci-devant serf, and a token of gratitude for his 
 liberation. He has become a rich railway contractor. 
 Saturday, i^th. — ^The great event of this day was 
 the annual Parade held on the Champ de Mars by 
 the Emperor, but I was obliged to go out early, a 
 most unfortunate time to have an appointment, for, 
 in the first place, I was in a great fuss to return home, 
 and, in the second, the streets were so full of soldiers 
 that even the plumes of my chasseur could scarcely 
 make way for me. 
 
 Coming back, I found myself quite blocked up, so 
 I got out of the carriage and walked. When I got 
 nearly home I had a bridge to cross, and there I found 
 a policeman, who declined to let me pass ; seeing I 
 could not explain, he wanted to take a card I had 
 out of my hand, but as this bore a doctor's name and 
 address I did not think it likely to prove an " Open 
 Sesame," so I resisted that, and in extremely broken 
 Russian said, " English Ambassador." I passed him, 
 and got within two steps of my own door, when two 
 7 
 
88 PARADE ON THE CHAMPS DE MARS [ch. ii 
 
 more men stopped me, and I only succeeded in shaking 
 them off by making a rush to the handle of the hall 
 door and getting in, laughing very much at my adven- 
 ture. 
 
 I quickly changed my dress, and, getting into my 
 carriage, which had returned, I went to the tent to 
 which Madame de Schweinitz and I were invited by 
 the Emperor. We were the only people there besides 
 the Grand Duchesses and their ladies-in-waiting. 
 
 There were 25,736 troops on the ground, and it 
 was a magnificent sight. The day was lovely, and 
 the variety of uniforms made a great effect. The 
 Emperor arrived at twelve, surrounded by a brilliant 
 staff of officers, Ambassadors, etc. He took up his 
 position close to the tent, so that we saw him and 
 everything else to perfection. As each detachment 
 passed he said, " 'Tis well, I thank you " — and then 
 all the men replied, as with one voice, " We are very 
 glad to serve your Majesty." 
 
 The cavalry have beautiful uniforms, and all the 
 horses of each regiment are of the same colour, 
 which has a very good effect. There is one regiment 
 with a most old-fashioned and extraordinary head- 
 dress, and all the soldiers in it are chosen with turned- 
 up noSes ! because it is the Emperor Paul's regiment, 
 and he had a turned-up nose (" tip-tilted " I should 
 say). 
 
 The last scene was, when all the cavalry rushed, 
 or rather " charged," the tent. They enveloped us 
 in dust, but it was very fine as far as we could see it. 
 
 MOSCOW 
 
 Though I have sent you my journal for so many 
 years, I never sat down to write it before in a state 
 of bewilderment as to what I should, and what I 
 should not, tell you. I never had to describe any- 
 
i88o] MOSCOW 89 
 
 thing which had previously been incorporated in a 
 " Murray " — and I never started on an expedition so 
 saturated with the essences of historical, archaeo- 
 logical, and all the other " logical " knowledge which 
 that good man puts at one's finger-ends. In fact, 
 hitherto I have only had to think of my personal 
 adventures and of the country, not the things in it ; 
 so to-day, when I find myself expected to describe 
 " Moscow," I feel most helpless. However, here goes. 
 
 Wednesday evening, May 26th, at 6.30 p.m. — I 
 routed up D. and hurried him into his great-coat, 
 and got him into the carriage with Nelly and Archie 
 and me, he saying, " Five minutes more would have 
 made all the difference in his comfort," and " feeling 
 sure " we were much too soon, and so we were — ^we 
 had half an hour to wait ; but we were off, which is 
 a great thing when you are starting on an expedition. 
 Lord William arrived in about ten minutes, and then 
 we took possession of a palatial car which will remain 
 at Moscow to bring us back. 
 
 At Luban we had an excellent dinner, and then we 
 played games till it was time to retire to our respec- 
 tive sofas. The night was very cold, and in the 
 morning, when we found a pouring rain and a very 
 cold air for our first day in Moscow, we felt as low as 
 people on a holiday can feel. 
 
 We had taken rooms at the " Slaviansky Bazar " 
 Hotel. It is clean and very nice in every respect. 
 Our bedrooms are very good rooms, and look like 
 sitting-rooms, — the beds being hidden behind screens. 
 I may say now, that my bed was most comfortable, 
 and, as you will soon see, I earned a good night. 
 
 We arrived early Thursday, 2'jth, and had some 
 breakfast, which we took in the restaurant to the 
 sound of splashing rain. 
 
 • This meal over, we immediately began to sight-see. 
 Count Bobrinski, to whom Count Schouvaloff had 
 
90 THE KREMLIN [ch. ii 
 
 kindly telegraphed, and a Count Boehler came to 
 see us, and gave us tickets for various things and 
 promised to show us the Treasury, and the Palace in 
 the Kremlin at once ; so we drove to the Treasury — 
 and here the guide-book intervenes ! All the rooms 
 in it are large and very lofty, and the most interest- 
 ing things (to me) exhibited there are, first, a carriage 
 with painted panels given by Queen Elizabeth to 
 the Czar Boris Godunof, and a sleigh which looks 
 like a glorified railway carriage, in which the Empress 
 Elizabeth used to travel to Petrograd. There were 
 in the same room several other lovely old carriages. 
 Peter the Great's bed, Indian saddles, and quantities 
 of silver chains which were used to keep the crowds 
 off when the Czars drove through the streets. Up- 
 stairs there is a fine collection of arms, and a most 
 beautiful collection of old silver plate, given by the 
 generous sovereigns of old days, when people were 
 much more magnificent in their ideas than they are 
 now. 
 
 In one room we saw the crowns of the Emperors, 
 and the robes and dresses they wear for their coro- 
 nation, including the present Emperor's uniform, and 
 the Empress's cloth-of-silver dress. In this room is 
 the throne where Peter and his idiotic half-brother 
 used to sit, with a hole at the back through which 
 Sophia prompted the latter. I think in Russia one 
 seems much nearer to history than at home, and I 
 look upon Ivan the Terrible as a great deal more 
 living than George IV, and half expected to meet 
 Peter the Great himself at Moscow. 
 
 We went through the Treasury into the Palace, 
 the greater part of which is modern. The remark- 
 able rooms are the St. Andrew's Hall, a most 
 magnificent room 200 feet long by 68 wide ; it is 
 much gilded, and must look beautiful at night. We 
 went out of the window on to the terrace — but I 
 
 I 
 
i88o] THE KREMLIN 91 
 
 won't speak of Moscow itself till the sun shines. This 
 room is hung with blue silk, the colour of the order 
 of St. Andrew. 
 
 The next very fine room is the Alexander Hall, 
 and then comes the Hall of St. George. It is lighted 
 by night by 2,095 candles. The names of the regi- 
 ment and individuals who have the order are inscribed 
 on the walls. 
 
 The old part of the Palace was, to us, the most 
 interesting. There is a little old room with seats 
 in the thickness of the walls, where the Councillors 
 used to sit and consult ; and then the Banqueting- 
 hall, where at the time of the coronation the Emperor 
 sits enthroned and dines alone in the midst of his 
 nobles. 
 
 Then the rooms of the Czarinas in four stories, 
 each story growing smaller, till at the top you find 
 the modest space considered necessary for a royal 
 nursery in those days. 
 
 Of course all these rooms are full of interesting 
 things, about which it is quite impossible for me to 
 tell you. 
 
 Having seen all the modern living rooms in the 
 Palace, we said good-bye to Count Bobrinski, and 
 went off to see things on our own account. 
 
 First we " did " the Cathedral of the Archangel 
 Michael, a square building with five gilded domes. 
 John the Terrible is buried here, and many other 
 Czars lie under velvet coverings within the walls. 
 Next we went into the Cathedral of the Assumption, 
 the most sacred church in Russia ; the whole of the 
 walls, pillars, and ceiling are covered with pictures. 
 Here the Emperors are crowned, and here lies St. 
 Philip, the Metropolitan, who was so badly treated by 
 John the Terrible, and here we saw the Picture of the 
 Virgin, said to have been painted by St. Luke. The 
 jewels with which it is adorned are valued at £45,000. 
 
92 SIGHT-SEEING [ch. ii 
 
 These churches are in the KremHn. Outside its 
 walls we were attracted by a most curious building, 
 which looks as if it had been in the sea for a year or 
 two, and had come up with its brilliant colours 
 mingled, and with sea-weed covering its domes. Of 
 these there are eleven, one in the middle and ten 
 round it. They are green and red, some smooth 
 and others like the sides of a pine-apple. This is the 
 Cathedral of St. Basil, and it is quite as curious inside 
 as out. You go in and out of very narrow passages, 
 into small chapels with fine altars, each cupola being 
 a chapel, until at last you come to a place where you 
 can look into the centre chapel, under the middle 
 cupola. Its walls and columns are painted with 
 fruits and flowers, and, on the whole, I think the Czar 
 was not without excuse when he put out the architect's 
 eyes so that he might never repeat his design. St. 
 Basil's ought to remain unique. 
 
 Do you suppose that after this we went home and 
 rested ? not at all ; we proceeded to the Sacristy of 
 the former Patriarchs, where we saw the robes they 
 wore, weighing 60 lbs. each thickly embroidered in 
 pearls, and worth ;^7,ooo apiece. Then the most 
 amiable of sacristans showed us the place where the 
 Holy Chrism is prepared by the Metropolitan of Mos- 
 cow for all the churches of Russia, and the magnifi- 
 cent silver vessels in which it is held, and then we 
 drove off to the Romanoff House. This gives one an 
 idea of a Russian home of the Middle Ages, but it 
 has been restored, and is not an actual antiquity. 
 The rooms are lined with wood and smell very sweet. 
 
 The stoves are made of coloured tiles with pictures 
 and mottoes on them ; for instance, one of a tortoise 
 with " there is no better house than one's own " as a 
 sentiment for him, in Russian of course. 
 
 The steps up to the rooms were very narrow and 
 very high, whereas in the Palace they were very 
 
i88o] MOSCOW 93 
 
 broad and very low. When one does so much sight- 
 seeing in a day, one begins to notice the quaUty of 
 the stairs one has to mount. 
 
 At last we went home, and although I bore up well 
 for so far, when I got to my rooms I became conscious 
 of a bad headache, which it required tea and a rest 
 till dinner-time to get rid of. We dined at home. 
 The cooking is good, and the bread and butter too 
 delicious. We had a game of cards, and — Hurrah for 
 bedl 
 
 Friday, May 2Sth, — Oh I such a glorious sun ; with 
 it rose our spirits ; we resolved to enjoy ourselves 
 immensely, and so we did. Immediately after break- 
 fast we got into an open carriage and left a few cards, 
 saw something more of Moscow, drove round the 
 Kremlin, and then mounted the Tower of Ivan to get 
 a view of the town from a height. We are all en- 
 chanted with Moscow, and think it the most lovely 
 city ; no words can describe the effect of the Kremlin 
 from a bridge where we stopped to look up at it ; 
 below, the river with its strong embankment, the 
 walls of the Kremlin rising above, broken by towers 
 of various shapes, the sloping grass banks, the trees 
 in their freshest green, the golden domes, the great 
 Palace, and then Moscow itself surrounding this 
 splendid fortress. Then from a height you look down 
 upon the town, with its houses set in trees (for they 
 rise up in lovely patches all through the streets), 
 most of the houses roofed with green, and gleaming 
 points of gold and colour studded everywhere. 
 Even D., who has travelled so much in the East, 
 says he never saw a more beautiful Oriental city. I 
 believe that secretly we are each under the impres- 
 sion that sunshine and verdure are peculiar to Moscow, 
 as we left winter in Petrograd, and we revel in them 
 accordingly. 
 
 Perhaps if you came here straight from London, 
 
94 SIGHT-SEEING [ch. ii 
 
 you might find the pavement bad, but we, who 
 come from Petrograd, think it rather good than 
 otherwise, and are quite enchanted when we get on 
 to the asphalte in front of our hotel. 
 
 Having made our tour of the walls, we entered the 
 Kremlin by the Sacred Gate, where all the passengers 
 take off their hats as they pass through, and drove 
 to the great bell, which lies at the foot of the Tower 
 of Ivan the Great. It weighs 444,000 lbs., and has 
 a large piece broken out of its side by its fall from a 
 wooden beam from which it was suspended. 
 
 After examining it, we mounted the stairs, and 
 stayed for a long time looking out upon ther glorious 
 panorama below. When we came down we went 
 again into the Church of the Assumption, and into 
 the Cathedral of the Annunciation, where the Em- 
 perors are married and baptized. When John the 
 Terrible married a fourth wife he underwent a sort 
 of excommunication, and the place is shown where he 
 listened to Mass outside the sacred precincts. There 
 is also a little seat in the wall where he used to sit 
 in this church. There are holy pictures here too, 
 but to us, who have no personal religious feeling about 
 them, one looks very like another. Often one can 
 scarcely ^ee the painting at all, as the head-dress 
 and garments are laid on in gold, and ornamented with 
 jewels. 
 
 We returned home to lunch, and, after having 
 rested a little, four of us went to see the Foundling 
 Hospital. 
 
 The irreverent Archie afterwards remarked that 
 he would as soon have seen a collection of young 
 mice ; but it is really very interesting, though (I 
 think) a most immoral institution, as any such 
 establishment must be where babies are taken in 
 wholesale, without any sort of investigation, and 
 where even married people can get rid of their " en- 
 
THE SACRED GATE. 
 From a photograph- by Major Albemarle P. Blackwood. 
 
 94l 
 
^ 
 
i88o] THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL 95 
 
 cumbrances " without straining their consciences too 
 far. We saw the whole thing from beginning to end. 
 First we saw an infant arrive ; a poor woman brought 
 it, handed it over, was asked no questions, except 
 whether she wished it to be given any particular name. 
 '* Yes, Pauline." It was taken out of her arms, and 
 out of the very scanty clothing which covered it, 
 was put into a " Foundling " cloth, popped into the 
 scales, had a number tied round its neck, ** 749," a 
 similar number was given to the woman, who then 
 departed. The baby was taken straight into the 
 next room, where we followed it, and in two minutes 
 after its entrance and desertion it was in a bath, 
 being washed and talked to by a woman who for 
 forty years has done nothing but wash babies on 
 their first arrival. We also saw, in this department, 
 peasant wet-nurses arriving to take infants into the 
 country, for they are all sent off in six or seven days 
 to families, who get three roubles a month for keep- 
 ing and feeding them ; and downstairs, we " inter- 
 viewed " six calves kept for the vaccination of the 
 babies. 
 
 The arrivals-of-the-day remain downstairs till the 
 next morning, when they take their places in the 
 rows and rows of little cradles which one sees upstairs. 
 The moment " 749 " came out of her bath, she was 
 given to a wet-nurse in a picturesque costume. About 
 fifty babies come in every day. 
 
 The building is enormous, and all the wards are the 
 same. One side of the passage is an immense long 
 room down each side of which is a row of cots, 
 and a row of wet-nurses with red caps, and white 
 chemisettes, and reddish cotton gowns, the throat 
 very open, and generally adorned with a necklace. 
 These all make a profound salaam to our conduc- 
 tress, the head of the Institution, who is a nice, 
 pretty woman. The ward opposite is a little warmer. 
 
96 A RUSSIAN DINNER [CH. ii 
 
 and is for sick and dying babies : a sad sight ; 
 premature little mites swaddled into melancholy 
 bundles. Some poor atoms have life kept in them a 
 few hours longer by sleeping in hollow copper ber- 
 ceaunettes lined with hot water. The place was 
 beautifully clean and well aired ; but I need not give 
 you all the details of medicine-closets, linen-cupboards, 
 etc., so I will only add that there were 600 babies 
 in the house to-day, but that they often have 1,000. 
 
 We went back to the hotel to fetch D., and then 
 we got a troika with four horses abreast, and drove 
 out to Sparrow Hill. This is the spot from which 
 Napoleon first saw Moscow. The view is lovely, 
 and we enjoyed the drive very much, and spent half 
 an hour there, while the accomplished members of 
 our party (D. and Lord William) made sketches. 
 
 On our return to Moscow we went to dine at the 
 " Moscovski Traktir," a restaurant, where we had 
 previously ordered a thoroughly Russian dinner. 
 
 The waiters probably thought us a little mad, as 
 we began by eating three sorts of soup ; first a cold 
 iced soup of kvass with pieces of herring and cucumber 
 and meat floating in it, called okroshka, then stchi, 
 a cabbage soup, to which you add sour cream, 
 and thirdly a bouillon of fish, which I thought 
 decidedly nasty. Next came rastigai — patties of 
 the isinglass and flesh of the sturgeon (very good) ; 
 then Pojarsky cutlets, which have penetrated to 
 England, and roast mutton stuffed with buck- 
 wheat, two very good puddings, the last being a 
 combination of an ice and a jelly ; wine from the 
 Caucasus, and the universal cup of coffee to finish 
 up with. 
 
 After dinner we went to some gardens, called the 
 " Hermitage," where the gentlemen shot at china 
 animals, and paid extra when they broke them ; 
 where we saw one act of Les Cloches de Corneville, 
 
 II 
 
i88o] THE SIMONOFF MONASTERY 97 
 
 saw a clown performing, had a cup of tea, and at 
 last, home to bed I 
 
 Saturday, May 2gth. — We have been dying to do 
 some shopping, and to see the Gostinyi Dvor, so we 
 consecrated this morning to it, but were much dis- 
 appointed with it and its contents. 
 
 " O. K." (Madame Novikoff) lunched with us, and 
 then we drove to the " Simonoff " Monastery. It is 
 about an hour's drive from town, and, after going 
 along rather an ugly road, we came upon a most 
 picturesque building, commanding a lovely view of 
 Moscow. 
 
 Outside the walls there were smooth green grass 
 and old trees, and immediately under them a straight 
 row of what looked like orange-trees, and the walls 
 themselves were crowned with curious- shaped towers ; 
 inside there rose a very high belfry, and the numerous 
 cupolas of a church, everything full of colour, and 
 glistening in the sun. Then we went through the 
 gateway, and found ourselves in an old-fashioned 
 garden, with rows of the " imitation orange-trees," 
 and hedges of lilac, sweet smells pervading the air. 
 Immediately round the church was a graveyard with 
 some curious old tombstones in it. We climbed the 
 belfry (310 steps), and admired the view, and walked 
 about and had tea outside the walls, and then came 
 in again and sat on the grass and enjoyed ourselves. 
 Conscience did ask aloud, whether we considered we 
 were thoroughly doing our duty as tourists, and 
 whether we did not think we ought to be rushing in 
 and out of museums, etc. ; but we boldly answered, 
 " No, we are thoroughly enjoying Moscow, and are 
 storing up agreeable recollections of the place, and 
 what would you have more, you absurd and exacting 
 Conscience ? " 
 
 He, she, or it has been silent ever since. 
 
 This night we dined at home, and had intended 
 
98 TROITZKY MONASTYR [ch. ii 
 
 to drive out and see a Park after dinner ; but when 
 our driver heard our destination he struck work, so 
 we ignominiously got out of the carriage and walked 
 up to look at the Kremlin by night. 
 
 Sunday, ^oih. — Every one here seems to consider 
 it absolutely necessary that we should see the Troitzky 
 Monastyr, so we hardened our hearts and deter- 
 mined to get up at 5 a.m., and to go by the early 
 train, which we did. When we reached the station 
 there we were surprised to find a carpet laid down, 
 and a semi-royal reception prepared for us. We got 
 into carriages, and drove to the monastery. I do not 
 like it nearly so well as Simonoff, and the great 
 interest felt in it by Russians must be chiefly religious. 
 
 We had a very kind and voluble lady to show us 
 everything ; she is the head of some charitable in- 
 stitutions which have only just been separated from 
 the monastery. We saw a great many churches, 
 the refectory, the charities, and the arrangements 
 for feeding all the pilgrims who come here. We were 
 given coffee by the Archimandrite, and photographs 
 and rosaries he brought from Jerusalem, and our 
 lady-guide gave us tea and books, and some of the 
 sacred bread, and we bought things made at the 
 convent,* and then we said we should like to go on 
 to see another monastery and some catacombs two 
 miles farther off. 
 
 Ladies are not admitted to this monastery, but an 
 exception was made in our favour, and we saw a very 
 nice old chapel, all wood, and in the real old Russian 
 style. We walked through the gardens to the cata- 
 combs, and there, underground in the darkness and 
 the damp, we saw a cell and a man who has lived 
 in it twenty years. He looked wonderfully well 
 considering. 
 
 Outside the Troitzky Monastyr there was a market, 
 and it was very interesting to see the crowd of Russian 
 
i88o] DEATH OF THE EMPRESS 99 
 
 peasants in their very gay-coloured clothes doing 
 business out there, and inside the walls others attend- 
 ing to their prayers. 
 
 We returned to Moscow in the afternoon and I went 
 to see the Temple of the Saviour, a very large new 
 church, begun in 1812 but not yet finished. It is 
 really very fine, light and lofty, with some fine paint- 
 ings, a beautiful marble floor and screen. 
 
 We left Moscow that evening, and had rather fun 
 in the train, playing " innocent games." 
 
 D. and I found that we were invited to dine with 
 the Prince d 'Oldenburg, who is now living in the 
 Islands. He is at the head of most of the charities, 
 and so immediately asked if I had seen the Foundling 
 Hospital at Moscow : " Very fine institution, but a 
 great want of wet nurses," he said ; then — " there is a 
 very fine one here, and no want of wet nurses, thank 
 God." This expression of gratitude has become 
 rather a habit with this good old man, who told me 
 later that he did not smoke, " thank God." 
 
 We all sat out of doors, and saw the people driving 
 out to the Point, where the fashionable world goes 
 to see the sun set. D. and I drove out there after- 
 wards ; we saw plenty of fashion, but little beauty. 
 
 Thursday, June -^rd. — ^The Empress died this morn- 
 ing at 7 .30 . By the afternoon we were all in mourning. 
 We have not yet received oi^.r orders, but I believe 
 the mourning is only for six months, and that we 
 Diplomats only attend one funeral service. The 
 servants' liveries and the harness have to be black. 
 
 The Empress lies in state, first of all in her room, 
 then in the chapel at the Winter Palace, then at the 
 Fortress. Four maids of honour keep watch by her. 
 Miss Corry told me she looks very nice, her bed 
 entirely, covered with white tulle and flowers, her 
 head surrounded with the same, 
 
 I went to order a crepe bonnet and found ail the 
 
100 FUNERAL OF THE EMPRESS [ch. ii 
 
 black being bought up quickly. My head-dress for 
 the funeral is a Marie Stuart cap, with a crepe veil 
 at the back and one over my face ; a long black 
 gown trimmed with crepe. 
 
 Monday, June yth. — ^To-day I attended a service at 
 the Fortress. The Empress's body was transported 
 there from the Palace, and there was a very grand 
 procession, which of course I missed seeing, as I had 
 to be in the church. The morning was fearful as to 
 weather, though I believe it cleared at the time the 
 procession started. The principal features of this 
 procession were : the Empress's own gala carriage 
 drawn by eight horses, a magnificent thing all gold 
 and silver ; the hearse, which was gold and white, 
 with an imperial mantle thrown over the coffin, the 
 Emperor and the Imperial family riding behind, all 
 the priests in gold and white vestments, etc. 
 
 Our balcony is in black petticoats, the lamp-posts 
 (the lamps are never lighted now) are swathed in black, 
 and we ladies are in the most sombre mourning. 
 
 When I got to the church I found all the Corps 
 Diplomatique assembled. We were given chairs, so 
 we sat there till the procession arrived. The coffin 
 was lifted in by the Grand Dukes, and placed under 
 a magnificent catafalque of gold and silver cloth 
 lined with ermine (the latter an imitation) ; under 
 this was a red velvet dais, with a rest for the coffin ; 
 the Imperial mantle was thrown over this, leaving 
 the face and head uncovered, and the relations all 
 bowed over it and kissed it. The Grand Duchesses 
 and Dukes stood in front of us, and I could see the 
 Emperor well. 
 
 He bowed to us when he came in and when he left. 
 The singing was beautiful, and the service short. The 
 family all kissed the Empress again, and went, and, 
 as I saw the rest of the world going up to the coffin, 
 I went too. The face had a veil of tulle over it and 
 
i88o] FUNERAL OF THE EMPRESS loi 
 
 looked like wax. The Imperial family attend a 
 service every morning and evening till the funeral, 
 and the body is exposed all the time, except from 
 5-7 in the morning. I must not forget to tell you 
 that the reason the priests were in white, and that 
 the catafalque was not black is, that the Greek 
 Church never mourns during the first fortnight after 
 Easter. The funeral is on Wednesday, and Thursday 
 being a Fete-day (Ascension Day), we all go into 
 colours for the day. 
 
 A Herald in black and gold, followed by a detach- 
 ment of Life Guards, has just passed by giving the 
 orders for to-morrow. 
 
 Wednesday , gth. — ^This morning we left our house 
 before ten, and drove to the Fortress. The Church 
 arrangements were the same as yesterday ; but, as a 
 great number of " illustrious strangers " have arrived, 
 there was more glory of uniforms, very slightly veiled 
 by the bit of crepe covering the gold and silver on 
 them. 
 
 There were the Duke of Edinburgh, and the Crown 
 Prince of Germany, and the Crown Prince of Den- 
 mark, and an Austrian Archduke, and the Queen of 
 Greece, and Prince Alexander of Hesse (who truly 
 mourns his sister) and many " Ambassadors Extra- 
 ordinary " with their suites, and all the candles were 
 lighted, and there were wreaths of flowers ready to 
 be put on the coffin ; and the four maids of honour 
 stood at their posts at the corners of the bier, and 
 two or three officers with drawn swords stood there 
 too ; and when the family came in there was a crowd 
 of very fine young men, and the Grand Duchesses, 
 also looking very handsome, with their veils and long 
 black gowns relieved by the red ribbon of an Order. 
 
 The singing was very beautiful, and the chanting 
 went on and on, and we (diplomats) sat down 
 occasionally and rested till twelve, when the Emperor 
 
102 A SUMMER HOUSE [ch. ii 
 
 came. Then everybody held a lighted candle for a 
 portion of the service, and, at the end, all the relations 
 went up to the coffin and kissed the Empress, and 
 then the sons and nephews lifted the coffin, and put 
 it down into the tomb prepared for it, the Imperial 
 mantle being thrown over all. 
 
 Monday, 14th. — I started early in the morning, 
 accompanied by Hermie, to go to Merikiill, there to 
 make arrangements for the children's arrival at their 
 seaside house. 
 
 I felt rather nervous about it, as I chose it in the 
 depth of winter, and feared the improvement in its 
 appearance might not be as great as I had expected. 
 
 At Narva our Consul met us, and put us into a 
 carriage, which took us to our wooden castle here at 
 " Schmetzky " near Merikiill. We were very busy 
 all day arranging the rooms and looking about us. I 
 am very much pleased with the place. There are 
 splendid sands, and the unsalt sea looks very like 
 the real article. Then on the other side of us we 
 have pine woods, and in the garden there are gym- 
 nastics, which are a great joy. 
 
 The other children arrived next day, and on 
 Thursday Archie came, and on Saturday D. ; so I 
 am going to tell you all about the week at once as 
 we do the same thing every day. 
 
 We sit out in the lovely sunshine, sometimes on 
 the balcony, sometimes on the sands, and in the 
 afternoon we take a nice walk through the woods to 
 Merikiill and come back by the sands. When there 
 we listen to a band that plays on a charming promen- 
 ade, or the children do gymnastics, and then we come 
 back to dinner and stay out afterwards till bedtime, 
 or read by the daylight till eleven p.m. 
 
 On Sunday afternoon we made a long expedition 
 to a place called Uddrias, where we had chocolate 
 and brown bread. We took a carriage to accompany . 
 
i88o] LAKE LADOGA 103 
 
 us, and we each took turns to drive in it. The invahd 
 Freddie went with us, and was very happy, and much 
 dehghted with everything. He looks wonderfully 
 better now. 
 
 Friday, July 2nd. — D. and I, Colonel Villiers, and 
 Lord Frederick Hamilton went by train to the 
 Schweinitz, who gave us an early dinner, and took 
 us a charming drive to Peterhof . 
 
 There we visited the Palace, and Peter the Great's 
 little house called " Mon Plaisir," and we were for- 
 funate enough to see the fountains play. They are 
 Very fine. The drive through the Parks and the 
 view of the sea are lovely, but I believe on dark 
 days Peterhof is very gloomy. In the Palace one 
 room is papered with portraits of pretty ladies ; they 
 are small squares, and each one touches the other. 
 There are some rather nice full-length pictures of 
 maids of honour dancing. 
 
 Wednesday, 2Sth. — ^Mr. Parish having asked us 
 down to Schliisselburg for two days, he and Mrs. 
 Parish came to fetch us at five o'clock, and we set 
 off towards Lake Ladoga in a small steamer. 
 
 In about an hour's time we reached a cotton-mill 
 belonging to our hosts, Messrs. Parish and Hubbard, 
 and thejre we had a reflection of a Canadian reception, 
 flags and bouquets and fire engines. We looked into 
 some of the rooms of the cotton-mill, and then got 
 on board the yacht which was waiting for us here. 
 
 She is called the U dacha (Success), and is a good- 
 sized steamer. We dined on board, and reached 
 Schliisselburg at ten. 
 
 The Firm have a large house here, in which the 
 manager of the printing works lives, with his wife and 
 ten children in the lower stories, while the upper one, 
 which is very nicely arranged, is kept for the owners 
 when they come here. There is a nice garden, and 
 the manufactory looks yery clean and bright ; the 
 8 
 
104 SCHLUSSELBURG [ch. ii 
 
 Neva flows in front, and to the right there is the great 
 lake, with the Fortress of Schliisselburg in the fore- 
 ground. 
 
 Thursday, 2gth. — Directly after breakfast we went 
 all over the works, and saw how much trouble, and 
 what valuable machinery it takes to produce a six- 
 penny yard of print for a dress 1 It was very inter- 
 esting. Afterwards they gave an alarm of fire, and 
 all the people rushed to their engines, and Lake 
 Ladoga was turned on to put out the imaginary 
 flames. 
 
 Friday, ^oth. — Happily the weather had improved, 
 so we set off in the yacht, first to visit the Fortress 
 of Schliisselburg, which, although it occupies the 
 whole of an island between the Neva and Lake 
 Ladoga, and so is a prey to every wind, managed to 
 smell very bad. 
 
 There was not very much to see. " The Archives," 
 which they volunteered to show us, were in an old 
 lumber-room, piled up, without any attempt at 
 arrangement, and the half jocular proposition made 
 by one of the party, that we should carry off a few 
 of the old papers, was met with the most ready " Yes." 
 The gentlemen each took a shot at some targets, 
 representing Turks, at which the soldiers were firing, 
 and made much better practice than they did, D. 
 and Terence both hitting the enemy in vital parts. 
 
 The Commander came just as we were leaving, 
 and was much upset at not having known sooner who 
 D. was. He gave us his boat to put us on board, 
 and told us how he had been in the Crimea, had been 
 left for dead on a field of battle, and had been rescued 
 and nursed by a lady, whom he afterwards married. 
 
 We went a little way in to Lake Ladoga, and then 
 anchored the yacht, and separated for shooting and 
 fishing. The fishers got nothing, but the others 
 brought back nine snipe and eight duck. 
 
 i 
 
i88o] A BEAR-HUNT 105 
 
 When we got back to Schliisselburg we fished 
 again till dinner-time with small success. 
 
 Saturday, Dec. 2$th. — ^A bear-hunting expedition ! 
 Up at six, and off at eleven, in a troika. A dark 
 morning, but happily only four degrees of frost. D. 
 and I were together in one sleigh, and in a great 
 close carriage Count Schouvaloff ^ (our host), M. 
 Nigra, and General Werder came after us. 
 
 We changed horses once, and at 9.30 reached 
 Count Schouvaloff 's country house. We breakfasted 
 in a room surrounded by all the birds and beasts to 
 be found about there, stuffed. At ten we set off 
 again, and drove twenty-four versts more. About 
 five versts from the place we each got into a little 
 cart-sleigh and had a very amusing drive. The 
 rough Finnish ponies go very fast, and, as the snow 
 is in deep ruts, one is always on the point of being 
 upset, and the driver puts down a leg on one side, or 
 leans over the cart on the other, so as to prevent the 
 catastrophe. 
 
 When we reached the beaters we all lapsed into 
 silence, and began to trudge through the wood — a 
 very tiring performance to me, with my great felt 
 boots and long heavy Ulster ; however, I got on 
 very well, and D. and I were placed in the second 
 place, with a Royal Chasseur holding an enormous 
 spear, in case the bear should attack us. 
 
 We had about ten minutes' excitement, listening to 
 the howls of the beaters, then we heard shots, and a 
 shout which told that the bear was shot, and that 
 without our having seen him. We ran to the place, 
 and Count Schouvaloff was very anxious that I should 
 fire into the poor animal, and " finish him " (he was 
 really quite dead), but of course I refused. Then we 
 all examined the prize, a very fine bear, and they 
 have given it to me. 
 
 ^ Late Ambassador to England. 
 
io6 A DIPLOMATIC PARTY [ch. ii 
 
 When we had trudged out of the wood again we 
 found lunch set out on the snow, and what do you 
 think we had to eat ? First, a Russian fish pie, and 
 then plum-pudding and mince-pies ! It was your 
 Christmas Day. 
 
 We drove home in the same way that we came, and 
 had tea at Count Schouvaloff's, half-way. Here I 
 found the children much excited over some presents 
 they had received in their stockings, and I must not 
 forget to tell you that before we started in the 
 morning D. and I found ours tied to our bedposts, 
 full of various works of theirs. Our Christmas really 
 lasts a fortnight, for there are a few presents on 
 the 25th, and then Christmas- cards keep dropping in, 
 and then the tree comes on January 6th. 
 
 December 2gth, 20th, sisi. — I must finish off this 
 year by telling how you I spent the last three days. 
 Wednesday, I selected a district of the town, and in 
 it went a tour of visits, " house-to-house visiting " — 
 while on Thursday I stayed at home, and received 
 seventy-five people. In the evening we went to a 
 party at Madame Chanzy's. She is at home every 
 Thursday. One enters and sees five Japanese, four 
 Chinamen, a few Turks, Persians, Roumanians, 
 besides specimens of all the other civilised nations, 
 standing in the middle of the room. Through an 
 interpreter one says a few words to the Japanese 
 Minister, then one turns round and asks the " Marquis 
 Tseng " some foolish question in English ; after that 
 one has a round with the Turk (or several Turks), 
 with the Italians, the Germans, the Austrians, the 
 Swedes, the Brazilians, and finally, one makes one's 
 way up to the farther end of the room, where two 
 or three ladies are sitting, and one spends ten minutes 
 again with an interpreter, talking to the Japanese 
 lady. When one wants a change, one has a cup of 
 tea, and then, having found out where all the old 
 
i88o] THE ICE HILLS 107 
 
 habitues spent their summer and when they came 
 back, and how all the new people like Russia, and 
 when they arrived, one gladly slips away home. 
 Friday afternoon (31st), I voluntarily spent in the 
 society of the Japanese lady. She is very ladylike 
 and dignified, and, at the same time, much delighted 
 with any amusement she can get. 
 
 She is learning to skate, and we asked her to come 
 and try the tobogganing hills. We drove out to them 
 and she came with the Americans. She enjoyed it 
 so much, and her little secretary was so delighted, 
 and went twice down the slide by himself, each time 
 getting the most tremendous falls, and rolling over 
 like a rabbit that has been shot. She can just say 
 " Merci," but she is learning French, and has a lesson 
 every day. 
 
CHAPTER III 
 
 OUR SECOND WINTER IN PETROGRAD 
 
 Sunday, i6th — Wednesday, igth,Jan. 1881. — Real cold 
 weather. The thermometer from ten to twelve below 
 zero (Fahrenheit)^ It is not so nice as in Canada, where 
 one could go out to walk or skate ; here one has to 
 pay visits, and getting in and out of a carriage is ven 
 disagreeable. I kept the children in, and the^ 
 amused themselves by dressing up. 
 
 Tuesday evening I went to a party. It was a really ' 
 smart party in a Russian house. The rooms were 
 large and well lighted, and every one was very welL 
 dressed, the gowns new and fresh. Last year, witl 
 the perpetual fear of mourning, the girls never seemed^ 
 to have any new clothes. 
 
 The entertainment began with the gipsies, who sang^ 
 The music is curious, but in a drawing-room a littlt 
 goes a long way, and they spoil the effect by wearing 
 old ball-dresses which fit them badly and are half-i 
 dirty. The dancing especially is spoilt by this. T( 
 see a lady in a train get up and, with wild screams, 
 run about trembling through every fibre of her body,j 
 is, to say the least, incongruous. 
 
 Friday, March 4th. — We had our third ant 
 last ball before Lent this evening, and I think it was 
 the best of the three. There were just the right 
 number of people, and they all looked very pretty^ 
 The invitations were for 220, and we sat down k 
 to supper at 2.30. I was very pleased with this 
 party. 
 
 J08 
 
i88i] ASSASSINATION OF THE CZAR 109 
 
 Sunday, 6th. This is a great day here — a journee 
 folk for most people ; they dance all afternoon, 
 and stop at midnight, if the clocks have not previously 
 done so ; or rather, the clocks stop at eleven and the 
 people stop at twelve. There is no dancing in Lent, 
 nor does it begin again after. 
 
 Sunday, i^th. — ^We went to church in the morning, 
 but D. went to a manege where the Ambassadors have 
 an occasional chance of seeing the Emperor. D. had 
 just come in and taken off his uniform when I went 
 out with the two girls to visit a sick woman. She 
 lives quite near us, and on the way we saw a wretched 
 horse with a broken leg being dragged along by 
 soldiers. 
 
 When we got into the house the poor woman, who 
 was in tears, said to me, " Is it true ? " " What ? " 
 " Why, that there has been an attempt on the 
 Emperor, and that, if not killed, he is wounded." 
 Then she told me she heard two explosions, and that 
 he was certainly wounded. I almost ran the whole 
 way home to tell D. and at the door I met the secre- 
 taries coming with the news, — and then one of the 
 Chancery men told us that he heard the bombs, and 
 then saw the Emperor's carriage with the back and 
 side blown out. D. went off to the Palace, and I 
 have just seen Mr. Kennedy, who went with him and 
 who has left him there. He says a shell was thrown 
 under the Emperor's carriage, which destroyed it 
 but did not wound him ; he got out, and another was 
 thrown, wounding him seriously — and they fear he 
 will die. I cannot tell you what a fearful impres- 
 sion it makes upon one, such cruel, persistent murder. 
 I sit at the window and watch for D.'s return while I 
 write. Soldiers are going about in every direction, 
 and sleighs bringing all the people who have just 
 heard it to the Palace. I believe D. had great 
 difficulty in getting in ! 
 
no DEATH OF THE CZAR [ch. hi 
 
 The wretched horse we saw was one ridden by a 
 Cossack close to the carriage, — for you know, since 
 these attempts, the Emperor is always surrounded 
 by mounted soldiers. 
 
 4.30. — It is all over. He is dead. D. has not 
 returned yet, but one of the Court officials has 
 brought word. He was insensible when D. arrived 
 there. It is indeed terrible, and I feel much for all 
 those left. 
 
 Monday, 14th. — ^The whole story is this. After 
 the parade, the Emperor went and breakfasted with 
 the Grand Duchess Catherine, and on his way back 
 a bomb was thrown at his carriage, which killed 
 a Cossack, wounded some people and horses, and 
 smashed his carriage, which, however, could have 
 taken him home. Instead of driving on, he got out, 
 crossing himself as he did so, and looked round. A 
 second bomb was thrown at his feet and exploded. 
 He was picked up insensible, and taken home in the 
 carriage of the Police Officer, who was also wounded. 
 He died in two hours. When D. arrived at the 
 Palace, he could scarcely get in, but he insisted, and 
 then he saw the Grand Duke Vladimir, who told him 
 there was no hope. A priest arrived at the same time. 
 
 At the Parade he talked to D. and spoke with 
 great affection of the Duchess of Edinburgh. This 
 morning there is a proclamation from the new 
 Emperor — ^Alexander HI. 
 
 All the afternoon D. was busy telegraphing to the 
 Queen, Prince of Wales, Duchess of Edinburgh, etc. 
 
 The Russians go to the Palace to congratulate the 
 new Emperor. " Le roi est mort, vive le roi ! " 
 
 In the afternoon I went to see my friends the 
 Schouvaloffs. He had been to Court in the morning 
 and said it was a most painful ceremony ; every one 
 dressed as for a great fete, but all crying. The new 
 Emperor and Empress terribly overcome. They say 
 
i88i] SERVICE IN THE PALACE iii 
 
 she cries all the time, even in the carriage, driving 
 along, when he had to keep acknowledging the salu- 
 tations of the people. The young Cesarevitch, too, 
 cried during all the service. 
 
 The Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh arrive on 
 Wednesday, and the funeral is to be on the 26th. 
 
 You will find this letter very disjointed, but I put 
 down the things as I hear them. 
 
 Wednesday, 16th. — Last night there was a service 
 at the Palace. It was for the translation of the 
 body from the room to the chapel. 
 
 We walked through long galleries and rooms and 
 found crowds of people there. Then we found 
 ourselves among the maids of honour, and two of them 
 were most kind, and said to me, " Stay with us." 
 Otherwise my position was a little uncomfortable, as I 
 did not know to what category I belonged, and people 
 were all placed in different rooms according to rank. 
 These two were very tall, so they put me in front of 
 them, when we formed in two lines for the'procession to 
 pass through. Of course I meant to look at everything, 
 but it really was such a sad moment that one forgot 
 to look. What I did see was, first, the priests and 
 choristers marching through singing, then the lid 
 of the coffin borne by four men, then the coffin itself 
 with the Emperor lying in it, the face exposed ; we 
 all knelt down here. I did not see the new Emperor, 
 but I saw the Empress, who seemed to have cried 
 away all beauty from her face for the moment. 
 
 When they had passed, the big maid of honour 
 took my arm, and dragged me along with them all, 
 and got me right into the chapel where very few 
 people were able to penetrate. 
 
 There was a great golden catafalque with gold 
 curtains lined with (imitation) ermine, and at the 
 end of the service the royal family went up one by 
 one to kiss the body. 
 
112 GLOOMY FOREBODINGS [ch. hi 
 
 I must tell you one strange effect. The service 
 was just over, but the priest in a monotonous voice 
 was reading the Gospel as the Imperial family walked 
 out, and then, in the very midst of this funeral rite, 
 one heard the soldiers outside greeting their new 
 Emperor. They all say together some sentence ; it 
 has the effect of a cheer. D. saw him walk through 
 them, and said he looked very fine and majestic. 
 
 I got out easily, but D. had great difficulty in getting 
 in — such crowds of people. 
 
 My big maid of honour and her mother were very 
 good to me after, and would not leave me till D. got 
 back to me. 
 
 The body will be moved to the fortress on Friday, 
 and lies in state there till Saturday week. The Gospel 
 is read over it without ceasing all that time. 
 
 Thursday, lyth. — D. and I went to call upon the 
 /" Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh, but D. only saw the 
 Duke. 
 
 One does nothing but listen to gloomy forebodings, 
 and stories of the " incapacity of the police," and 
 the " inefficiency of everybody." The mine now 
 found in a street through which the Emperor might 
 have returned is an immense affair, and, had it been 
 sprung,1iouses and hundreds of people would have been 
 destroyed. It appears this very place was marked 
 as a suitable spot for a mine, on a map which the 
 Government got last year. The people living in the 
 house were under suspicion, and the house was visited 
 a fortnight ago, but nothing was found. 
 
 Last night we were told there was a mine on the 
 Quay a little way below us, but it was not true. 
 
 Saturday, igth. — ^The day of the first ceremony 
 connected with the funeral. I did not intend to try 
 to see the procession, but, at the last moment, D. 
 persuaded me to go with him and the children to 
 Mrs. Clark's, whose windows had a splendid view of it. 
 
i88i] THE FUNERAL PROCESSION 113 
 
 Mr. George Augustus Sala appeared at breakfast, 
 having come here on behalf of the Daily Telegraphy 
 and we took him with us. 
 
 We started at 9.30, and got to the house without 
 much difficulty. Almost the best part of the sight 
 was the crowd. I never saw such a mass of people 
 swaying to and fro ; they had to be kept back by 
 soldiers, and it was quite fearful to see the way in 
 which they were pushed about. Some quite well- 
 dressed women were there, and that they should 
 escape with their lives seemed almost impossible. 
 
 There was such a curious effect when all the men 
 took off their hats, and when, instead of looking down 
 upon a blackish mass, one saw a sea of pink faces and 
 fuzzy light brown hair. 
 
 The greatest precautions were taken all along the 
 route of the procession. An inspector was sent in 
 charge of each house, the garrets were locked, and 
 the roofs were forbidden as standing places. Most 
 of them were draped in black. 
 
 As to the procession, it was a great disappointment. 
 On paper it sounded beautiful, but it was so strag- 
 gling that one never quite knew when it had begun. 
 The only striking bits of it were, a most gorgeous 
 man in gold armour sitting on a white horse covered 
 with a crimson and gold cloth, and a man in black 
 armour walking behind him ; but these two passed 
 quite by themselves, and nothing more appeared for 
 a long time. 
 
 Then the funeral car, all gold, with cloth-of-gold 
 curtains, and surmounted by white plumes, was fine, 
 the Emperor walking on foot behind it . The Empress 's 
 carriage was covered with black cloth. Another 
 thing that would have looked well, had the gentlemen 
 only marched better and looked more stately, was, 
 the group of officers carrying golden cushions on 
 which were fastened the late Emperor's orders, and 
 
114 SERVICE IN THE FORTRESS [ch. hi 
 
 his crowns, but there was nothing imposing in the 
 way these bearers walked. 
 
 When we had seen the most interesting part of the 
 procession, we struggled down a side-street in our 
 carriage and hurried round to the fortress. The 
 gates were closed, and we had to walk in. 
 
 We got there some time before the procession, and 
 saw all the people coming in. The cushions, with 
 the sceptre, crowns, and decorations, were laid on 
 stands prepared for them, and the Grand Dukes 
 carried in the coffin and laid it in its place. 
 
 To any one assisting at the service once, it is all 
 very sad, and one is astonished to see those most 
 concerned shedding no tears ; but when one comes to 
 think that every day, from the death to the funeral 
 (next Sunday) the same service, and the same fare- 
 well to the body is gone through twice a day, one can 
 understand how it becomes a mere ceremonj'". The 
 service is not very long, and at the end of it all the 
 family go up to the coffin and kiss the body. The 
 Emperor's face was covered with a piece of muslin. 
 
 In the afternoon I wrote my name down on all the 
 Royalties, and paid one or two gloomy visits. Every 
 day I hear horrid stories and melancholy forebodings 
 for the future. Lady Harriet Grimston dined with 
 us, and the Equerry, Captain L'Estrange, came in the 
 evening. He is brother to Mrs. Laurence Oliphant. 
 
 Monday, 21st. — ^We went out to the ice hills to 
 brush away the cobwebs. The sun was shining, and 
 I felt quite cheerful, till I paid a visit on my way 
 back, and listened again to all the despairing talk that 
 goes on. One thing I was told was that, in Petro- 
 grad, two million francs are spent on police, as com- 
 pared to eleven million spent in Paris for the safety 
 of the same number of people ; what ruinous economy 1 
 Also, that the Russian character is entirely unsuited 
 for police purposes — they take everything so easily. 
 
i88i] ARRIVAL OF PRINCE AND PRINCESS 115 
 
 For example, an ojDficer examined the house where the 
 mine was, two days before, and discovered nothing ! 
 He was to have been tried, but has blown out his 
 own brains. His defence was, that he was not told 
 that there was any suspicions about the house, and 
 was only asked to see if it was damp ! The Emperor 
 has changed the head of the force ; the new police- 
 man is a sailor. 
 
 Petrograd is cram- full of royalties. May they all 
 get safe home ! 
 
 Thursday, 24th. — D. went to Gatchina to meet the 
 Prince and Princess of Wales, ^ and at four I went 
 to the station here, 
 
 I arrived a quarter of an hour before the time and 
 was shown into a waiting-room, where I found all 
 the Grand Dukes, who offered me tea and were very 
 civil. Then all the Grand Duchesses came, and then 
 the Empress. 
 
 When the train was heard coming we went out to 
 the platform, and then there was a tremendous on- 
 slaught of kisses — " Kisses to right of them, and kisses 
 to left of them " ; kisses on hands and cheeks, kisses 
 between men and men, and then every one got oif as 
 best they could, and I, finding that Miss Knollys 
 was going to the hotel, invited her here, and, as she 
 is very pleasant, and glad to be here, and as she 
 hardly ever sees her Princess, it is very nice having her. 
 
 Friday, 25^/5. — D. and I went to the Anitchkoff 
 Palace, where the Prince and Princess are, to write 
 down our names, and D. saw the Prince. The Queen 
 has informed D. that she looks to him for the safety 
 of the Prince, so I, at any rate, am very nervous 
 about this week, and long for it to be over. All 
 the English suite dined with us — Sir John Cowell, 
 Lord Suffield, Sir Dighton Probyn, Colonel Stanley 
 Clarke, Colonel Teesdale. 
 
 1 King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra, 
 
ii6 FUNERAL OF THE CZAR [ch. hi 
 
 Saturday, 26th. — ^The Prince of Wales came to see 
 us this afternoon. I hope he appreciated our stair- 
 case, which is all draped in black. We showed him 
 the house, and he had some tea, and Freddie and 
 Victoria were introduced, and he was very kind and 
 nice. All his suite dined with us. 
 
 Sunday, 2jth. — ^The funeral is over, and I am so 
 thankful for it. I confess I felt horribly nervous 
 when I considered what a number of royalties would 
 be all under one roof and what a haul the Nihilists 
 would get, if only they could send one little bomb 
 into their midst. I considered whether it would not 
 be best to leave Nelly at home to look after the 
 younger ones, in case such a catastrophe should occur, 
 but D. threw cold water on this precaution ; so I put 
 her on a cap and veil, and when she came into the 
 church with me many people wondered who that 
 jeune dame could be. 
 
 We had to be there at 10.30, and I stood in a 
 crowd in a very hot church, full of incense, for four 
 hours. 
 
 The Russian royal family arrived at the same time 
 as we did, but the foreign princes only came in at 
 twelve after the Mass, and for the funeral service. 
 
 The catafalque, old gold and imitation ermine, took 
 up the centre of the church ; on the steps of the 
 platform stood the Emperor, Empress, and some of 
 the Grand Duchesses and royal guests. On the floor 
 close by came a circle of Ambassadors and their 
 wives, then the Ministers, and, in front of us all, miles 
 of Grand Dukes ; I never saw such tall young men 
 as they are ! The whole church was perfectly full, 
 and all the men were in uniform. It was difficult to 
 find kneeling room, but it was a great relief to change 
 one's position for a few minutes in the midst of such 
 a long service. 
 
 At the end of it, all the family took a final leave 
 
i88i] THE PRINCE AND PRINCESS OF WALES 117 
 
 of the body ; the coffin was covered over by them, 
 and then the Grand Dukes carried it to the vault 
 prepared for it in the church. We followed. 
 
 The new Emperor seemed much affected, and they 
 were all crying round the grave. Every one passed 
 by, and threw in a little sand, and the vault was soon 
 filled up with all the wreaths presented by different 
 people. The English both here and at Moscow gave 
 wreaths, costing ;^30 and £40 apiece. The Queen 
 sent one from England. 
 
 The Emperor's great friend and servitor, a very 
 old man, and himself in delicate health, has, I am 
 told, stood hours both day and night at his dead 
 master's side. 
 
 Monday, 2Sth. — ^There was a great ceremony at the 
 Anitchkoff Palace this morning, but unfortunately 
 for me I was not asked to it. 
 
 The Prince of Wales invested the Emperor with 
 the Order of the Garter. The whole Embassy went, 
 and the ceremonial was all written out in a book — 
 and four beautiful red velvet and gold cushions were 
 bought at ;<Ji2 apiece, to bear the insignia of the Order. 
 
 Tuesday, 2gth. — To-day we had a lunch for the 
 Prince and Princess of Wales and the Duke of Edin- 
 burgh. We had all the Ambassadors and their 
 wives, three Russian Ambassadors belonging to 
 London, Berlin, and Paris, two special Ambassadors 
 just starting off on missions to announce the acces- 
 sion of the new Emperor to the European Courts, 
 our Embassy, and some gentlemen in waiting on the 
 Prince, thirty in all. 
 
 The children presented the Princess with a bouquet, 
 and made most beautiful bows and curtseys. 
 
 She looked so pretty in her black dress, and long 
 black veil with Marie Stuart cap. Every one was so 
 delighted both with her beauty and her amiability 
 in speaking to every one. 
 
ii8 OUR LUNCHEON PARTY [ch. hi 
 
 I had a " regulation " black dress, a perfectly plain, 
 very long black princess gown, with white mourning 
 collar and cuffs. I sat between the two Princes, and 
 the Princess between D. and the Italian Ambassador. 
 
 The table looked very pretty, and the cook exerted 
 himself, and I received many compliments on his 
 behalf. After lunch, we stood and talked over 
 cigarettes and coffee for about an hour, and both the 
 royalties spoke to every one, and made the thing a 
 great success. 
 
 The Princess said she would like to see the children 
 again, so I sent for the little ones. In the meantime, 
 she went to see Miss Knollys's room, and, I find, had 
 a peep into mine and D.'s on her way. Miss Knollys 
 sleeps downstairs, and, as the Princess did not want 
 to come up again, she brought her round to the big 
 staircase by the children's rooms, and there she 
 came upon Nelly waiting to have a peep at her. 
 She had darkened the room, so as not to be seen, but 
 the Princess took her in the rear, at first to her 
 horror, but afterwards to her delight, as she saw her 
 so well. 
 
 Nelly had been suppressed as being too old and yet 
 not old enough to appear ; but after this she came 
 upstair^ to say good-bye with the others. 
 
 Thursday, ^ist. — D. went as far as Gatchina with 
 the Prince of Wales, who left to-day. The Princess 
 remains behind him. Miss Knollys stays with us 
 and General Probyn is left. 
 
 Friday, April ist. — ^Miss Knollys, General Probyn, 
 and I went to see the Museum of Carriages. There 
 are some wonderful specimens of golden coaches, 
 with painted panels, and monograms in diamonds, 
 and some enormous sleighs, as long as a saloon rail- 
 way carriage. We also saw the carriage the Emperor 
 was in when the first bomb was thrown. The back 
 of it is completely smashed, as is the frame under the 
 
i88i] THE WINTER PALACE 119 
 
 seats, and under the coach-box. The glass from all 
 the windows has utterly disappeared. Inside, the 
 carriage looks almost untouched, but when you lift 
 the cushions you see how it is broken up. The wheels 
 and doors seem scarcely hurt. The way in which 
 the coach-box was broken was that when the bomb 
 exploded the carriage was thrown up, and in coming 
 down smashed it. 
 
 Saturday, 2nd. — ^The Master of the Horse lunched 
 with us, and then we went in a procession, selves, 
 children, Embassy, etc., to visit the Imperial carriages 
 and horses (the former I saw yesterday). There 
 are 500 horses, in beautiful lofty stables. It was quite 
 a long walk we had to take through stables and 
 yards, and we wound up by seeing some of the best 
 horses led about in the Riding School. 
 
 Sunday, ^^rd. — Church twice, and a visit to the 
 Schouvaloffs. Miss Knollys went to breakfast with 
 the Empress. 
 
 Monday, 4th. — We went over the Winter Palace 
 with Count Apraxine. It is a sight one ought to see, 
 though it really is not very interesting. 
 
 First we saw the crown jewels, which are very 
 magnificent. The Orloff diamond is lovely, and 
 there is a priceless diamond necklace which looks 
 almost too much like the bits of a chandelier as one 
 sees it under the glass case. 
 
 Then we visited the plate, with which we were 
 disappointed. Of china there was a poor display, 
 and I can't believe we saw all that is possessed by 
 the Emperor. 
 
 Then we walked miles through enormous ball- 
 rooms, drawing-rooms, etc. The only liveable room 
 seemed to be the late Empress's boudoir, which was 
 the room I waited in when I went to be presented to 
 her. The other " saloons " are very uncomfortable- 
 looking and I think altogether the Palace is most 
 
120 INSTITUTION AT SMOLNA [ch. hi 
 
 disappointing. There is one interesting gallery of 
 portraits, but most of the pictures are enormous 
 battle pieces. 
 
 In the evening D. presided and spoke at a mission- 
 ary meeting, and afterwards we went to the Gosselins, 
 where Miss Knollys had dined. 
 
 Tuesday, ^th. — ^Miss Knollys and I had arranged to 
 lunch with Lady Harriet Grimston, and to go with 
 her to see the great Institution or School for " Jeunes 
 filles nobles " at Smolna ; but the Princess wanted 
 her, so she could not come, and the consequence was 
 that, after driving all the way to Smolna, I only saw 
 an asylum for old people. I was glad, however, to 
 see this enormous charity. 
 
 The greater part is kept up by the Government, 
 though a few rich people support a room or two. 
 There are 2,000 old women, and 800 old men, and, 
 with a smaller institution of the same kind near to 
 this one, there are over 3,000 persons provided for. 
 
 On the whole, it seems very well arranged. There 
 are enormous long and high corridors on to which 
 the rooms open ; the space on either side is divided 
 into rooms by arches, but, as there are no doors in 
 them, they are really long and uninterrupted galleries 
 of beds^= — and they are, I must say, wonderfully sweet 
 and fresh, all things considered. A curious plan, and 
 one which I think is a mistake, is, that their dinner 
 is brought to each individual on a tray and is eaten 
 in the bedroom. A change of room, and a table to 
 eat upon at meal times, would be an improvement. 
 
 I was struck by the idleness of the 2,000 old ladies ; 
 I did not see more than five with a bit of knitting, and 
 though Satan must find it difficult to suggest any 
 mischief for their idle hands to do, I feel sure that, 
 metaphorically, they must (to mix two of Dr. 
 Watts's hymns) " tear out each other's eyes." 
 
 The Russian bath is heated three times a week, 
 
121 
 
 i88i] THE IMPERIAL LIBRARY 
 
 and they go into it when they hke. They say that 
 the change of hfe from hardship to comfort, and the 
 absence of all anxiety for the future, lengthens their 
 lives wonderfully, and that the mortality is very low. 
 
 There are in the building a Greek church and a 
 small chapel, in which Protestant services in Finnish, 
 Polish, German, and two other languages are alter- 
 nately performed. 
 
 There is one very good idea carried out in this 
 asylum. There are a few rooms for old couples, and 
 we saw an old lady and gentleman who had 'been 
 married fifty-three years, and who have lived together 
 comfortably for the last ten in this institution. They 
 have a room very nicely furnished, and I saw their 
 " samovar " ready to make their cup of tea. 
 
 There is a small school below, and some rooms for 
 one or two persons, in which the most aristocratic of 
 the poor live in a little extra comfort and privacy. 
 
 Wednesday, 6th.~The Princess of Wales sent for 
 p. and me at two, and as it was a fete-day I dressed 
 in white, and D. stripped the cr^pe from his 
 uniform. 
 
 The Princess looked lovely in a white gown trimmed 
 with crepe. 
 
 On my return I took Miss Knollys to see the 
 Imperial Library. It is very interesting. They 
 have a splendid collection of manuscripts and auto- 
 graphs ; all the engravings of portraits of Peter the 
 Great, and a large picture of Catherine II. It took 
 a long time even to walk through it. There is one 
 small room in it arranged like the library of some 
 ancient monks, the large old books being chained 
 to the desk. We had a dinner of seventeen; I 
 sat next to Baron Jomini, the second at the F.O. 
 here. 
 
 A boy called Eric Gisiko dined with us, and played 
 the violin ; Mr. Gosselin accompanied him. I had 
 
122 " LES JEUNES FILLES NOBLES " [ch. hi 
 
 hoped to have a violoncello too, but unfortunately 
 the performer is an official, and none of them are 
 allowed to make any music till the Emperor has been 
 dead forty days I 
 
 Thursday, yth. — ^At ten D. and I went to the 
 funeral of Prince Ghika, the Minister for Roumania, 
 who died of a cold caught at the Emperor's funeral. 
 The service was very long. We hurried home, had 
 lunch, and went to the station to see the Princess off. 
 The Empress was crying very much, and one felt 
 very sorry for her. D. went as far as Gatchina with 
 H.R.H. 
 
 Friday, Sth. — I went with Lady Harriet Grimston 
 to see the Institution of Smolna, a school for " Jeunes 
 filles nobles." As to the building, it is very fine, 
 enormous passages and class-rooms. There are five 
 hundred girls. They sleep forty in a room, and each 
 class has a different- coloured dress, the make of the 
 uniform being the same. It consists of a blue, brown, 
 green, or grey frock made low with short sleeves. A 
 white tippet is worn over the neck, and there are 
 white sleeves which can be put on the arms, and a 
 white apron. The best-looking girl I saw was in the 
 kitchen, and there was scarcely any difference between 
 her dress and that of the pupils. 
 
 Twice a year they have a drive in the Imperial 
 carriages, and then they wear red hoods and green 
 capes, not a pretty dress. 
 
 D. has been appointed Ambassador at Constan- 
 tinople, and so our minds are full of packing and 
 selling. We feel as if we had only just settled here, 
 and to pack again seems most unnatural. 
 
 I have told the children of the coming change, and 
 they, of course, are delighted. Freddy is anxious to 
 know if there are ponies in Turkey, and supposes " we 
 shall not do any lessons there." 
 
 The Schouvaloffs, who have been the very kindest 
 
i88i] FAREWELL TO PETROGRAD 123 
 
 of friends to us ever since we came to Russia, are 
 helping us in all our arrangements for leaving. 
 
 At twelve this morning the Emperor received the 
 gentlemen of the Corps Diplomatique. D., on his 
 return, went to see the Nihilist prisoners being tried. 
 
 Sunday, loth. — Letters from London and Constan- 
 tinople, which decided D. to start on Friday. Next 
 three days busy from morning to night — settling, 
 packing, visiting, etc. 
 
 Thursday, 14th. — General Schweinitz asked us to a 
 farewell dinner. We were a party of twelve, and he 
 drank our health, and said he never felt so inclined 
 to make a speech before. After dinner we went to 
 the Schouvaloffs. I am so sorry to leave these good 
 friends. Their kindness to us has been extraordinary. 
 We could always go to them for help and advice, 
 were always welcome in their house, and we met 
 there intimately some of the nicest people here. D. 
 paid a round of visits which kept him out till nearly 
 two. 
 
 Friday, i^th. — ^We left Petrograd ! All the morn- 
 ing I kept receiving notes and bouquets, and at the 
 station all our friends met us, and more flowers were 
 given me. The Chevalier Garde (the smart regiment) 
 sent me a magnificent bouquet. Madame Schouvaloff 
 came to the station too. The servants seemed very 
 sorry to lose us, and my Chasseur wept. 
 
 BERLIN 
 
 Monday, April iSth. — D. and I were told that the 
 Emperor and Empress of Germany would receive 
 us at 1.30, so we went to the Palace then. The 
 Emperor had a bad cold, and received D. without 
 his ribbon, for which he made many apologies, and 
 regretted that, on this account, he could not see me. 
 This amused us, as our Russian Emperor received 
 
124 BERLIN [CH. Ill 
 
 the whole Corps Diplomatique in solemn state, and 
 for the first time, without his ribbon. 
 
 The Empress talked with me. She was so kind, 
 and kissed me, and complimented me upon D.'s 
 success in Russia, and expressed her great interest in 
 all he might do in the future. Then he came up to 
 see her, and, during their conversation, her lady took 
 me into her boudoir. 
 
 At five we went to the Crown Prince's Palace. 
 There we dined with them and their three daughters, 
 a very nice homely dinner. There were primroses 
 from Osborne on the table. 
 
 After dinner we talked, and the Princess showed 
 us her rooms, and then we left, and went to a play, 
 finishing up with tea at the Embassy. 
 
 We stayed a night at Darmstadt, and, leaving 
 there early in the morning, we saw the best part of 
 the Rhine from the train. D. could not get over 
 " doing " the Rhine in a few hours, for he had 
 made the journey as a child and remembered it as a 
 very great business indeed ! 
 
 And so back to London. 
 
 • EN ROUTE FOR CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 Venice, June Sth, 1881. — Here we are, so far on 
 our way, and instead of being baked on the plains of 
 Lombardy, and basking in the sun on the canals of 
 Venice, we have been wrapped in furs, covered with 
 rugs, and glad of our umbrellas ever since Monday 
 morning in Paris ! Is it not sad that I should see 
 this enchanting city, for the first time of my life, 
 under leaden skies and pouring rain ? M 
 
 The Consul and the smart young Lieutenant in^ 
 command of our ship have been to see us. We go 
 on board to-morrow, and are to stop at Corfu to see 
 the Commander-in-Chief (Sir Beauchamp Seymour). 
 
i88i] H.M.S. HELICON 125 
 
 Thursday, June gth. — ^The weather was rather 
 better, and, having but one day, we determined to 
 spend it in going about Venice in a gondola, and not 
 to waste it in trying to see too many sights ; so 
 we got into a boat, and sometimes with umbrellas up 
 and sometimes in a gleam of sunshine, we wandered 
 about enjoying the quiet, and the lovely old houses 
 and bridges which we saw as we passed along. 
 
 We went into St. Marks, and to the Doge's Palace, 
 and into the Layards' house, and walked through 
 some of the narrow streets, and were out the whole 
 day, going on board the Helicon at ten o'clock. Our 
 cabins are beautiful, and nothing could be more 
 comfortable than we are — if only the sea were still ! 
 
 Sunday, 12th. — ^We were to be in harbour at Cepha- 
 lonia at nine. The swell outside kept me in bed till 
 we had anchored. When I came up on deck I found 
 that we were lying in a quiet place, surrounded by rather 
 barren-looking hills, a blue, blue sea, and above a 
 bright sky, a small town in sight, composed of very un- 
 picturesque houses, and quite a fleet of ironclads near 
 us. The Admiral's ship is the Alexandra. She is a 
 very fine ship, light and airy below and very high be- 
 tween decks. The officers we met were Lord Walter 
 Kerr, Mr. Burke, and Mr. Lambton. The Thunderer 
 was close to her, and I was sorry not to see Mr. 
 Bickford, who was with us in the Amethyst, which took 
 us from San Francisco to British Columbia in 1876. 
 
 Monday, i-^th. — ^A real blue sea, and land in sight 
 all day, a bright sun, an awning, a comfortable arm- 
 chair, an interesting novel, excellent meals, and, at 
 night, a lovely moon — thus we passed through the 
 Greek islands, all of them barren at this time of 
 year ; in fact, they look like bare and rocky hills, 
 and one would almost think them uninhabited. 
 
 H.M.S. Antelope, Tuesday, 14th. — Now we may 
 begin to speak officially, for this morning we anchored 
 
126 THE DARDANELLES [ch. iii 
 
 in the Dardanelles, and found our official yacht, the 
 Antelope, awaiting us. 
 
 Mr. Kennedy ^ came off early, and brought me some 
 letters from the children who had arrived there from 
 Petrograd, and who are all well and happy ; and then 
 we breakfasted, and, later, two Pashas came on 
 board. We had a rather trying morning, and began 
 to feel the yoke of office I One Pasha, Suleiman by 
 name, has been sent by the Sultan to meet the new 
 Ambassador ; he is a very nice man, and speaks 
 English perfectly, but neither the Governor of the 
 Fort of Chanak nor the Military Governor speaks 
 anything comprehensible, and I confess that, when I 
 was set down in front of them, and was told by the 
 English-speaking Pasha that he was ready to trans- 
 late my remarks, I felt very much at a loss to find 
 suitable ones. Then the Consul came on board, and 
 the Consul's son brought a bouquet, and after about 
 four mauvais quarts d'heure, we transferred to the 
 Antelope first saying good-bye to the officers of 
 the Helicon. A guard of honour consisting of six 
 marines received the Ambassador. We were intro- 
 duced to the officers of the Antelope by Captain 
 Joliffe, and were shown our rooms, which are charm- 
 ing. The cabin on deck is very smart, the fore part 
 of the deck is covered in with flags, and the floor 
 laid with rugs, so that it makes a comfortable sitting- 
 room (in which I am now writing). Then the 
 Consul's wife and daughters came on board, and 
 we had lunch, after which we went ashore and had 
 our first glimpse of Turkey. The Pashas went 
 with us, and took us to the fort, where they showed 
 us an enormous old gun, from which great granite 
 balls used to be fired, like those we have at Clande- 
 boye,* and a very big new cannon, presented to the ; 
 
 1 Sir Robert Kennedy, K.C.M.G. 
 
 2 Brought home by Lord Dufierin some years ago. 
 
i88i] CONSTANTINOPLE 127 
 
 Sultan by Krupp ; we examined these, and all their 
 appurtenances, and then we went into the Com- 
 mandant's room, and, for the second time this after- 
 noon, drank Turkish coffee (it is quite thick, and 
 I do not like it yet), while the band played Turkish 
 music for us ; one must get accustomed to this, as 
 well as to the coffee, before one can appreciate either. 
 Then we walked through the town, and saw quan- 
 tities of picturesque, dark, dirty, gaily dressed men, 
 but only one yashmak. The lady was draped in 
 purple, and her veil was thick muslin, showing very 
 little of her face. 
 
 A cheap kind of pottery is made here, something 
 like the Vallauri ware, and we laid in a stock of it, 
 which, at the small cost of one pound, will fill many 
 a bare corner in the Embassy. When we went into 
 the shops, a crowd soon collected round the door. 
 
 We visited the Consul's family, and then came on 
 board again, and set sail, or rather, steamed away, 
 Suleiman Pasha alone being left with us. Chanak is 
 not a pretty place, though with sun and bright blue 
 sea and hills, it cannot be called ugly ; we thought, 
 however, that the Consul's daughters (one of them 
 very pretty) must have a dull time of it, and Katie 
 says she should prefer to vegetate in a Co. Down 
 villa. 
 
 Constantinople, Wednesday, i$th. — ^This morning I 
 rushed on deck to have a view of Constantinople. 
 One ought to see it first at sunrise or sunset, when the 
 golden points of the minarets shine, but so late as 
 9 a.m. they looked quite black. I do not think 
 the first view so very lovely, but when one turns 
 round " Seraglio Point," and looks up the Golden 
 Horn, both sides of the town coming into view at 
 once, it is very fine. The mosques, and the remains 
 of the old walls, and the cypress-trees, which rise in 
 every cemetery (these being anywhere and every- 
 
128 THERAPIA [cH. iii 
 
 where), are all very picturesque. As we steamed up 
 the Bosphorus, every house on its banks was pointed 
 out as a place of interest, the residence of this person, 
 or the harem of that, the window where the late 
 Sultan was murdered, or the one out of which the 
 mad ex-Sultan looks. The harems have lattices in 
 the windows, so one knows them at once. Each 
 house seems to have a picturesque garden at its back. 
 
 We passed a beautiful ruin at the " Sweet Waters 
 of Asia," and at eleven weighed anchor in front of 
 our own Embassy ! A lovely caique came for us. 
 It is my carriage, and it is gorgeous. The carved 
 wood is gilt, and the seats crimson velvet ; the crew 
 wear red fez, red sleeveless jackets, embroidered with 
 gold, and white or cream-coloured shirts ; in the 
 bows, steering, is a splendid old man, a perfect 
 picture, and when I go out in the caique in front of 
 him will sit Mustapha, the armed guard ! 
 
 At Therapia we were met by all the staff of the 
 Embassy, who came on board the Antelope to greet 
 us, and then we went ashore and found the children 
 very well and in a great state of excitement. They 
 positively hauled us over the house and garden. 
 The latter is very pretty, and as it is on a hill there 
 is a gi%at deal of walking to be got out of it for its 
 size. 
 
 I am very pleased with my house ; at present it is 
 poorly furnished, but it looks out on the Bosphorus, 
 and up the Black Sea, and it has fine rooms and 
 great corridors, and we can be most comfortable in 
 it. The children have a lovely school-room, with a 
 bow-window looking towards the Black Sea. 
 
 In the afternoon I ordered the caique, and we 
 went to call upon the Russian Ambassadress, Madame 
 Nowikow. D. was with him in Syria, and I met 
 them at Petrograd, so we are by way of being friends. 
 We told our Embassy we should be "at home " in 
 
i88i] FIRST IMPRESSIONS 129 
 
 the evening, and so began to make acquaintance with 
 them. 
 
 Friday, lyth. — ^This morning everything looks very 
 lovely. The sun is very bright, and I have opened 
 all my outside wooden shutters, so as to give me the 
 best views everywhere. While things are new to 
 me, I will tell you two or three of the customs of the 
 place. 
 
 The minute the Ambassador gets into his caique, 
 the flag is hoisted, the consequence being that each 
 time we pass a mail steamer, or a government vessel, 
 or a ship belonging to one of the other Embassies, a 
 horn blows, or a drum beats, and the Ambassador is 
 saluted, and has to take off his hat in reply. When 
 this happens three or four times in half an hour it 
 becomes rather comic to us who look on, and rather 
 aggravating to D. 
 
 Then, the cavass who walks before us when we go 
 out is very funny. He has a tremendous swagger, 
 as he goes along, sword in hand, and you may imagine 
 how very ridiculous it is when you see one of these 
 solemn personages in attendance on Freddy — who has 
 even led him up into a tree. 
 
 Saturday, iSth. — Saturday is always to be a half- 
 holiday, and we are to get up an excursion each week ; 
 so to make a beginning, we arranged to go to the 
 Forest of Belgrade, and Mr. Sartoris treated us to 
 tea there. Katie and I and all the children went in 
 the carriage, a cavass riding in front. The " Em- 
 bassy," and Mrs. Plunkett ^ rode. We went up-hill 
 all the time, and when we got to the aqueduct, we 
 had a most beautiful view of Therapia and the 
 Bosphorus, and the air was delightful. In the 
 forest we found tea and ices prepared for us, and 
 the children climbed about, and amused themselves 
 extremely. 
 
 * Mr. (afterwards Sir) Francis Plunkett was First Secretary. 
 
130 THE SULTAN [ch. hi 
 
 In the evening we had our first dinner, ten people. 
 General Hamlyn, who is going out to delimit the 
 Greek frontier, dined with us, and was most amusing. 
 
 Sunday, igth. — ^We went to church in the wood- 
 cellar, which serves as a chapel till the new one is 
 built, and when we came out we went over the 
 secretaries' house. Just as we were leaving a 
 tremendous thunderstorm came on, with such pouring 
 rain that it was impossible to go even across the 
 little garden to our house. We were kept there quite 
 an hour and a half. 
 
 Tuesday, 21st. — ^The Sultan (Abdul Hamid) re- 
 ceived to-day, D. and twenty-eight persons, who 
 in various ways represent England, put themselves 
 into full uniform and went down the Bosphorus in 
 the Antelope. The Sultan sent carriages to meet 
 them, and the Ambassador went up to the Palace 
 in a carriage and four. We are told that special 
 honours have been shown D. in ways which have to 
 be known to be appreciated : e.g. — ^A great swell 
 (Suleiman Pasha) was sent to meet him at the 
 Dardanelles. Then, an A.D.C of the Sultan's was 
 sent here. The audience was soon after D.'s arrival ; 
 at it, all the staff were presented singly, and, greatest 
 condescension of all, D. is asked to dine to-morrow, 
 the measure of the civility being the earliness of the 
 invitation. These marks of favour will, I hope, make 
 all the other Embassies green with envy. 
 
 Well, on arrival, D. read a speech, and then the 
 Sultan said that, when he was rested, he would see 
 him privately, so they all retired to smoke cigarettes 
 (which are replacing the pipe) and to drink coffee. 
 After that, a select few went back to the Sultan. 
 They say his Majesty looked quite happy yesterday. 
 Generally, he looks so miserable and frightened. 
 
 The Antelope got back at seven, and we had a small 
 dinner, and a few people came in the evening. Captain 
 
i88i] DINNER AT THE PALACE 131 
 
 Joliffe and Captain Pusey and his wife, and a Mr. Butler 
 were the principal strangers. 
 
 Wednesday , 22nd. — ^This lovely morning we went 
 out directly after breakfast to look at a donkey and 
 a pony for the children — a matter of great import- 
 ance ; we ended by buying two donkeys, and the 
 children rode them about all day. Katie and I went 
 for a row in the small caique over to Asia. 
 
 D. dined with the Sultan, and I will give you his 
 description of the entertainment. He, and six others, 
 went in the steam launch at six o'clock, and they 
 did not get back till one. When they reached the 
 Palace they had some time to wait. The Sultan 
 always dines at sunset, and I dare say you know that 
 Turkish time changes every day, as it follows the 
 setting of the sun. When the Sultan came into the 
 room they proceeded to the dining-room, where they 
 found all the Pashas waiting. The Sultan had with 
 him two boys, his son and his nephew. He sat at 
 the head of the table, and with rather a large space 
 left between him and his neighbours. D. sat on his 
 right hand, and beside him stood, not an ofQcial, or 
 a servant, but one of the great swells of the country, 
 Munir Pasha, who acted as interpreter. Each time 
 the Sultan spoke to him (or to any other Pasha) he 
 salaams. The idea is that of picking up dust, and 
 casting it over oneself ; but the present way of doing 
 it is by touching the stomach, chest, and forehead 
 rapidly. 
 
 The Sultan would say something to Munir Pasha, 
 he would salaam, and repeat it in French to D., whose 
 reply was conveyed to the Sultan with the same 
 submissive air. No one else at table spoke, but, 
 happily, beautiful music was played all the time. 
 It is only lately that the Sultan has condescended 
 to eat with other people ; he used to look on at his 
 dinner-parties. The dinner was long, and the Sultan 
 
132 VISIT TO THE PORTE [ch. hi 
 
 asked about me, the children, etc., ordinary small- 
 talk. The only other subject which interested him 
 was that of shooting-machines, such as Dr. Carver 
 uses, with glass balls to fire at ; D. is to get one for him. 
 
 After dinner D. and two interpreters were left 
 alone with the Sultan, and they talked politics for 
 an hour ^nd a half. 
 
 We generally spend the morning indoors. Katie 
 takes Victoria for an hour's lessons, and I take Freddy ; 
 then there are letters to be written, and social arrange- 
 ments to be made, and sometimes domestic squabbles 
 to be dealt with : for one does not settle down into a 
 polyglot household without some difficulties to be 
 smoothed over. English and French in the nursery, 
 Greek and Turkish and English servants elsewhere, 
 each one has a different idea as to what is right 
 and proper as regards themselves ; and who can 
 decide these things but me ? I am often reminded 
 of the Fox and Goose and Cabbage puzzle when 
 I try to solve the domestic problems put before 
 me. However, after many failures and much 
 wrangling, I begin to think that peace is possible 
 and that we shall all settle down and be happy 
 evermore. 
 
 ThuTisday, 2ird. — ^This has been rather an eventful 
 day, as I have visited the " Porte," and the Embassy 
 House in Constantinople for the first time. D. had 
 to pay his official visit to the said Porte, the 
 Government being represented by the Grand Vizier 
 and another Minister, Azim Pasha, and Said Pasha. 
 Every one was in uniform, but Katie and I con- 
 descended so far to go as private individuals. The 
 Antelope took us, and when we landed we got into 
 a hired carriage, while D. and all the secretaries were 
 taken in royal conveyances. 
 
 First came the Ambassador and a Master of the 
 Ceremonies in an open carriage, lined with bright green 
 
 I 
 
i88i] OUR EMBASSY IN PERA 133 
 
 satin with red trimmings, four horses, a postilhon, 
 and behind, two footmen dinging on to a strap, 
 these all dressed in beautiful gold-embroidered jackets. 
 More carriages of the same kind, but less splendid, 
 followed with the staff. 
 
 They went on their way to the Porte, and saw 
 two old gentlemen, and ate sweets with them, and 
 drank coffee. Let us (as it says in a book) leave 
 them thus employed, while we accompany the ladies 
 to the " Palace," in which the British Embassy lives 
 during the winter. " Palace " indeed it is. You 
 never saw such an enormous house ; it quite alarms 
 me. 
 
 You enter through big doors into a great court, 
 with a marble floor, which originally was open, but 
 is now covered in with a glass roof, it is lighted at 
 night by a sun-light. All round this, with windows 
 opening on to it on each story, is a great wide corridor, 
 on to which the rooms open. From the court you 
 go up a fine marble staircase, and, after looking at 
 the gallery, you visit the reception-rooms ; two sitting- 
 rooms and a waiting-room for his Excellency, two 
 drawing-rooms and a waiting-room for me. I was 
 pleased with these rooms ; they are well furnished, 
 and not too gigantic. Then come a big ball-room, 
 a dining-room, and a billiard-room. This is only two 
 sides of the square ; a third side is taken up by stair- 
 cases (even the back-stairs are marble), and the 
 secretaries' rooms. Upstairs we have eleven bed- 
 rooms, out of which I have to get school-room, day 
 nursery, and a boudoir for myself ; for as there are 
 eighty-seven high steps up to this floor, I must have 
 a sitting-room at the top of them. The floor above 
 is excellent too, but so high up ! One must have 
 " Excelsior " perpetually in one's mind, not to feel 
 disheartened by the fatigue of so big a house. 
 
 Katie and I went all about the place, and tried 
 
134 TEA IN ASIA [ch. in 
 
 to arrange how I should dispose the rooms, and then 
 we went down to the garden. 
 
 It is very large (for a town), with good trees ; it 
 will be a great comfort to the children. 
 
 By this time D. had come back, and the two old 
 gentlemen had been to return his visit, and one 
 hundred Englishmen came to be presented, and 
 coffee and sweets were going on upstairs, so the 
 secluded ladies found it difficult to hide themselves, 
 and for some time sat on the back-stairs, and ate 
 ices and drank coffee ! 
 
 When the ceremonies were over we again got on 
 board, and reached home at eight, after six hours' 
 outing, which had tired us much. 
 
 Saturday, 2i,th. — Katie and I paid visits in the 
 small caique, and then followed the children to the 
 German Park — so called because it is a site for the 
 German Embassy, given by the Sultan. They rode 
 their donkeys, and we sat about and looked at the 
 view. The Plunketts came in after dinner, and we 
 gazed at a beautiful comet which is visible now. 
 
 Sunday, 26th. — Church in the morning. The ser- 
 vice is early, and is over by 11.30. Then we sat out 
 in the garden and watched (under the children's 
 auspices) some creatures of the cockchafer species, 
 which pervade the garden, and which are now coming 
 out of the hard shells in which they begin life. We 
 saw them creeping out, and saw their tiny, thick- 
 looking wings expand into the beautiful gauzy ones 
 they finish life with. 
 
 Later we got into our big caique, Mr. Kennedy 
 having invited us to five o'clock tea in Asia 1 I 
 took two little children with us, and the young men 
 came in the launch. When we reached the other 
 continent (in about a quarter of an hour) we found 
 donkeys waiting, and we ladies and children got on 
 them, and had the most lovely ride through trees, , 
 
i88i] A TURKISH KIOSQUE 135 
 
 some of which have gigantic trunks, age written in 
 every Hne of them, the whole made more interesting 
 by the picturesque figures walking about under 
 them : a group of women huddling together in one 
 place, muffled in gay-coloured garments, funny little 
 be-turbanned, and be-dressing-gowned infants toddling 
 about ; men of all kinds, some like the brigands of 
 one's imagination, the ordinary Greek, and the con- 
 ventional Turk, our magnificent " caique-chi " (the 
 old gentleman who steers our boat), in his crimson and 
 gold, all just like real tableaux- vivants. We rode on 
 to a Kiosque, or small Palace, which is utterly deserted 
 and ruinous outside, but indoors, the decorations on 
 the walls were lovely ; patterns painted on a gold 
 foundation — ^it gave one a good idea of a real Turkish 
 house. When we had seen everything, we rode back 
 to a little garden near the landing, where tea was 
 laid, and there, under the shade of a magnolia-tree, 
 we rested and refreshed ourselves. The children 
 were in great excitement about the frogs, which were 
 jumping about, and in his delight, Freddie managed 
 to fall in, and we had to take him home bare-footed. 
 The sun was setting when we got back. 
 
 Tuesday, 2Sth. — ^A quiet day in the garden. I saw 
 Mrs. Hanson, who employs four hundred refugee 
 women in doing embroideries, of which she has sold 
 £1,100 worth this year. 
 
 We had a small dinner, but one of our guests did not 
 appear at all (Mr. Mackenzie Wallace), and Mr. 
 Plunkett only came at ten. He had been all day at 
 Midhat Pasha's trial, and told us the prisoner had 
 been found guilty of inciting to murder. His de- 
 meanour was very dignified, while the other ones 
 accused looked frightened to death. The trial is 
 about the murder of the last Sultan, Abdul Aziz. Nine 
 of the prisoners have been condemned to death, 
 Midhat Pasha included. 
 10 
 
136 DINNER AT THE RUSSIAN EMBASSY [ch. hi 
 
 Thursday, 2)^th. — I was " at home " to the EngUsh 
 ladies to-day, and, as it was very fine, I received them 
 in the garden. There were about eighty, and the 
 afternoon went off very well ; it was not at all stiff, 
 and I think they were all pleased. I must tell you 
 the sort of weather we have now. When I wake I 
 find a brilliant sun shining into my room, and I open 
 wide a great door-window while I dress. Till twelve 
 o'clock it is warm, but comfortably so, and at that 
 hour a breeze comes up from the Black Sea, which 
 cools the air, and is quite delightful. This lasts all 
 day, and towards 6.30 one is glad of a little woollen 
 shawl for sitting out. At night, two or three blankets 
 are supportable, and at no time need one complain 
 " how hot it is." We have one place in the garden 
 where it is always shady and cool, and the children 
 are able to play lawn-tennis there, even at ten o'clock 
 in the morning. 
 
 Friday, July ist. — ^We dined at the Russian Em- 
 bassy. The dinner was in the Entrance Hall, which is 
 a fine room, and the table was very prettily arranged. 
 The most curious part of the proceeding was, that no 
 two people who came down arm-in-arm sat together. 
 The plan is for you not only to go down to dinner 
 with the right person, but to sit in the place that ac- 
 cords with your rank, and so a sort of chassez-croisez 
 goes on when you reach the dining-room, and when 
 you are about to leave it. For example, our hostess 
 went down with the Italian Ambassador, who, putting 
 her at one side of the table, himself went and sat 
 opposite her. The Austrian Ambassador took me 
 down, and, placing me by the Italian, went oppo- 
 site, and sat by our hostess — and so on through 
 the whole of the twenty people. When we got 
 up at the end, the gentlemen had to skurry about 
 looking for the person they brought down. After 
 dinner, we sat out on a terrace in the dark, and I 
 
i88i] VEILED LADIES 137 
 
 was introduced to several new people whom I could 
 not see. 
 
 Saturday, July 2nd. — We had our half-holiday 
 expedition to-day. We went in the Antelope about 
 ten miles up the Black Sea, to Kelia, a place where 
 there is a life-boat station. The Captain of this boat 
 and his wife (Mr. and Mrs. Palmer) took us up to 
 their house, while tea, which we brought with us, was 
 laid in an arbour. After it, we were shown all the 
 life-saving apparatus, and saw a rocket take a rope 
 to an imaginary ship in distress. Then we set the 
 children to a few running games, and started so as 
 to get into the Bosphorus before sunset. 
 
 Sunday, 'i^rd. — In the morning, we had the most 
 fearful rain-storms, and a squall in the afternoon 
 capsized a boat close to our house, and drowned four 
 people. We had to dine with the Calicis (Austrian) 
 at Buyukdere, and drove there instead of going by 
 sea. 
 
 I forgot to mention before that, during church, 
 a mysterious message was brought in to D., who 
 disappeared at once. When the service was over 
 I found him in the company of two veiled Turkish 
 ladies. One was elderly, the other young and pretty. 
 They both wore yashmaks (very thin ones), and the 
 young one had a yellow silk dress, circular yellow 
 cloak, a blue silk hat, with a diamond brooch in 
 front, the whole being covered with the white muslin, 
 which is brought over the forehead and mouth as a 
 yashmak. These were the sister and niece of Midhat 
 Pasha, and they came to see if D. could do anything 
 for him. As I told you, he is condemned to death. 
 They want D. to see him, but this is not possible. 
 The ladies only spoke Turkish, and they were very 
 anxious no one should know they had come. They 
 wanted to go out a back-way, but I thought their visit 
 would be much less remarked upon if they went out 
 
138 CANDILI [CH. iii 
 
 as usual. I was surprised to find that they were 
 free enough to get away on such an expedition. 
 
 Wednesday, 6th. — Katie and I went in the steam 
 launch to pay visits at Candili. It is a place about 
 half-way between us and Constantinople, and, like 
 all places here, with the exception of a few houses 
 built at the very edge of the water, it is on a 
 high hill. The roads being of the most primitive 
 description, it would have been very hard work to 
 climb them on foot, and a carriage would be impos- 
 sible ; so we had two open sedan-chairs to take us up, 
 and the procession moved on thus : The cavass in 
 front with pistols, sword, whip, and card-case ; then 
 her Excellency, borne aloft by two picturesque beggars ; 
 and then Miss Katie, with the same sort of carriage 
 and horses. They carried us first up the hills and 
 then down, and once, down a great flight of steps, 
 when it was rather hard to stick on. Our pleasant- 
 est visit was to Mrs. Arthur Hanson. Her house is 
 situated on a little promontory, and from the front 
 of it there is a magnificent view towards the Black 
 Sea, and from the garden one towards the Sea of 
 Marmora. The garden is a series of terraces, and at 
 the top of it one can sit under a tree (celebrated in 
 Murray) and look at Constantinople, the Sea of 
 Marmora, and the mountains beyond . The picturesque 
 towers of Roumeli Hissar, and of the " Sweet Waters 
 of Asia," are in the foreground of this lovely 
 view. \ 
 
 Thursday, jth. — ^To-day I had to make an expedi- 
 tion with some of my family to the dentist. We found 
 him a most primitive performer, with the most rusty 
 old instruments and no new inventions. He amused 
 us by proposing that our next appointment with him 
 should be at seven a.m., and when I remarked that 
 we lived at Therapia, he told me that other people 
 who lived there got to him at six. 
 
i88i] BEIKOS 139 
 
 Mr. Plunkett ^ has been appointed First Secretary 
 at Paris, and goes there at once. 
 
 In the evening there actually was a French play at 
 Buyukdere. The theatre was a sort of long arbour- 
 cafe, but the acting was very good. I was told the 
 third little piece was not very proper, so at the end 
 of the second I sent the young ladies of the party to 
 row about in the caique. 
 
 Saturday, gth. — Our half-holiday took the form of 
 a cricket-match and a visit to a Turkish villa. 
 
 We went in our steam launch, taking with us the 
 Greek Minister and his two daughters ; it is through 
 them that we got leave to visit Ibrahim Pasha's place. 
 We landed at Beikos, and had six donkeys there 
 for the children. They rode, while we walked up to 
 the cricket ground, and we sat under those great 
 trees I described once before watching the same. 
 We then proceeded to the place we were to visit. 
 Ibrahim Pasha sent two carriages and two bullock- 
 carts to meet us, and we got into the latter. We were 
 much shaken, of course, but it would have been very 
 poor-spirited to go in a common carriage. The house 
 is on a very high hill (on the Asiatic side), and the 
 place is large, and quite beautifully kept. I never 
 saw anything neater in England, and you know neat- 
 ness is not an attribute common to this part of the 
 world. There were large aviaries, and a lovely five- 
 o'clock tea-house in the grounds, and a beautiful view 
 from them, and in the house a great entertainment 
 for us. 
 
 Upstairs, we were handed sherbet and biscuits — 
 and expected nothing more. Then we were told there 
 was tea downstairs, and there we found a table spread 
 with an enormous cake in the centre, sandwiches, tea 
 and ices ; so we all sat down and ate again. Then 
 we were given bouquets, and the children each a pot 
 
 ^ Sir Francis Plunkett. 
 
140 THE ITALIAN EMBASSY [ch. hi 
 
 of fern, and the carriages drove us down to his 
 landing-place, where the steps were marble. Like 
 the hosts in the Arabian Nights, Ibrahim Pasha 
 himself did not appear. 
 
 Freddie, having wandered away from his friends, 
 had a fall from his donkey and severely scratched 
 his nose, forehead, and knee. He can't bear any one 
 to notice his wounds, and says, when the state of his 
 nose is alluded to, " It's only a crack — everybody 
 has cracks." 
 
 Sunday, loth. — Church in the morning. In the 
 afternoon we sat under the trees, and Mr. Nicolson ^ 
 read us a lecture he wrote for us, giving a sketch of 
 Turkish history from 1826 to the present day. He 
 is the head of the new college here for educating 
 Englishmen to be dragomans. The moment I asked 
 if some one would give me a resume of Turkish 
 modern history, he set to work, and wrote this lecture. 
 
 Monday, nth. — I had my first ride, Nelly and I, 
 D. and Mr. Kennedy. As we had a dinner at the 
 Italian Embassy, and a ball in the evening, we did 
 not go very far. 
 
 When I came down to dinner I found that Katie 
 and L had been sent a couple of the most enormous 
 bouquets you ever saw. They were the circum- 
 ference of a five-o'clock tea-table, and weighed pounds. 
 Katie was very unhappy about hers, but I insisted 
 that she should carry it as it was. However, we did 
 not use them much, for our host, Count Corti,* 
 snubbed the bouquets tremendously (I think because 
 he had not given them himself), and he did not allow 
 Katie's to come upstairs at all. 
 
 I did not mean to dance, but I changed my mind, 
 and joined in it till the end, at 4 a.m. (began at ten). 
 
 There was a beautiful moon, and people enjoyed 
 
 * Lord Camock, 
 
 * The Italian Ambassador. 
 
i88i] PRINKIPO 141 
 
 the garden very much ; but about two o'clock wind 
 came on, and some people who came in boats could 
 not get home. 
 
 Wednesday, i-^th. — Our half-holiday. We started 
 directly after lunch in the Antelope, and went to the 
 island of Prinkipo. The voyage took two hours and 
 a half, passing all down the Bosphorus into the Sea 
 of Marmora, and the day was lovely. When we 
 landed we were surrounded by crowds of donkey- 
 boys, and it was only through a vigorous use of 
 the cavass's whip that way was made for us to 
 mount. The two Miss Bartholeyns ^ and I, and all 
 the gentlemen, rode donkeys, mine being a superior 
 creature, with a charming canter. Katie, Mrs. 
 Plunkett, Lord Bath, and Count Corti went in a 
 carriage, but they got the worst of it afterwards, as 
 they had to walk up a very steep hill. The road was 
 good, and the views lovely, and the air (alas !) very 
 superior to that of Therapia. The smell of pine- 
 woods, too, was delicious. We got very high up, and 
 perched ourselves upon rocks, from which we could 
 see mountains and sea and islands, and Constantinople 
 in the distance — ^we had coffee there, and then rode 
 back, getting on board at half-past seven. 
 
 The deck was very prettily arranged, with two 
 round tables for seven persons each, and we soon sat 
 down to dinner, and then steamed home in the moon- 
 light, having had a very happy day. 
 
 Thursday, 14th. — Our patience was sorely tried 
 this morning. We had to be at " Robert College," 
 an American institution for educating Bulgarians, 
 Turks, Armenians, Greeks, etc., to assist at the 
 giving away of prizes at ten in the morning ; so, 
 hurrying through breakfast, we went off in the launch 
 to Roumeli Hissar, whose beautiful old towers are 
 spoilt by the great modern American building behind 
 
 1 Daughters of Belgian Minister. 
 
142 A GIPSY ENTERTAINMENT [ch. hi 
 
 them. We had a steep dimb up to it, and when we 
 at last got into the room where the ceremony was 
 to be, we read the programme with sinking hearts ! 
 
 We had to hsten to twelve essays, read by the 
 authors, each taking at least ten minutes, and all on 
 the driest subjects ; then to occasional performances 
 by a very loud band — and at the end of this, " giving 
 diplomas " — " giving prizes " — " addresses " — (eight 
 of them) — Prayer and Doxology ! 
 
 The result was, that we were kept till after two, 
 and the way we rushed upon a plate of biscuits, when 
 released, was a sight to see. 
 
 To refresh myself after this trial, I went a ride with 
 D., Lord Bath, and Mr. Kennedy. We went farther 
 than we intended, and did not get home till late. 
 Then we hurried through dinner, to go to a gipsy 
 entertainment given us by Mr. Sartoris. 
 
 It was so prettily arranged, upon a terrace in the 
 garden. We sat in a tent, Chinese lanterns were 
 hung about, and, with trees in the background, and 
 a beautiful moon shining upon them, the gipsies 
 danced and made curious music. One tried to tell 
 fortunes, but was a very bad hand at it. 
 
 The most interesting part of the performance was 
 the whirling of one of the ladies. She went round 
 and round in one spot for five minutes, and so fast 
 and so steadily that her petticoats stood out stiffly 
 in a sort of umbrella form, and she looked quite like 
 a machine. She was not the least giddy after it, to 
 our astonishment. 
 
 Saturday, i6th. — ^We had a small dinner, and, as 
 we had arranged for two ladies to sing on the water 
 outside our house, I invited some people in the even- 
 ing. The music was very pretty, and it went on till 
 nearly twelve. One of our guests who likes to sit up 
 all night, sat on and on — and I thought she never 
 would go ; and when I had sent away the professional 
 
i88i] VISIT TO PERSIAN EMBASSY 143 
 
 music she wanted to begin some amateur singing, 
 but I dropped the subject. 
 
 Monday, iSih. — ^We are all very busy discussing an 
 entertainment that we want to get up, to raise money 
 for a new English church. I shall not act in the play, 
 as it is for money, but I am to be President and 
 general manager of the thing. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Goschen ^ have arrived, so our Embassy 
 is becoming a very large company. Some of them 
 always come in, in the evening, so that, in spite of 
 there being " no society," our life is not nearly so 
 domestic as at Petrograd. 
 
 One of our visits yesterday was to a Turkish lady ; 
 she is twenty-three years old, and has been married 
 nine years. Her husband has only just let her 
 appear, and she has been in Paris five years ; so I 
 imagine he was educating her. 
 
 Tuesday, igth. — I went to call upon the Persian 
 Ambassadress. The husband received me. When 
 I asked if I could see his wife, he went and knocked 
 at the door of the harem, and, not getting in that way, 
 we had to go round to get it unlocked on the other 
 side. When we were admitted we found ourselves 
 in a very small bare room, in the presence of a large 
 lady in a long European dress — and with a very 
 untidy head of hair. She had to speak to us through 
 her husband, but, when he went to order some tea, 
 she chattered to me in an unknown tongue. The tray 
 was brought in by a black woman who stood there 
 while we drank it. Her dress was pink, and h*ad 
 a train, which, when she was standing, came out 
 between her feet in front ; a violet handkerchief on 
 her head, and a long jacket completed her costume. 
 On our way back we got a good deal splashed, as 
 it really was rough on the water. 
 
 Wednesday, 20th. — In the afternoon we went with 
 
 * Now Sir Edward Goschen, Bart. 
 
144 THE SWEET WATERS OF EUROPE [ch. m 
 
 all the children, in carriages, to the Belgrade Forest, 
 and after tea a large party of us mounted our 
 horses and rode for six miles, through a lovely wood, 
 to Pergos. There are two beautiful aqueducts to be 
 seen there, and the ride is a very pleasant one. 
 
 After twelve miles on horseback, and two drives 
 (for I came home in a carriage), I was rather tired. 
 Some of the young men, however, appeared in the 
 evening, and we had a discussion about some plays 
 we are getting up, to make money for our new church. .■ 
 
 Wednesday, 2'jth. — ^The next half-holiday expedition 
 this week was to the " Sweet Waters of Europe." I 
 drove for about an hour, and then got on my horse, 
 and, with eleven others, rode another hour and a half 
 through a very pretty farm, and over some grass, to 
 the sweet waters, where the Palace stands, in which 
 the Sultans spend their honeymoon. 
 
 It is a villa with very fine rooms in it. The harem 
 (it is uninhabited now) is magnificent as to size. The 
 floors are covered with matting, and, with the exception 
 of a few divans round the walls, the rooms are empty. 
 Our tea was set out in a marble pavilion in front of 
 the Palace, and we were all very glad of it. 
 
 The-" Sweet Waters " themselves do not deserve 
 their name. In reality they are very like a canal, 
 and are not at all romantic-looking. 
 
 Friday, 2gth, — ^The Committee met about the 
 theatricals, and it was resolved, first, to raise the price 
 of the tickets, which are to be £,i . It seems enormous 
 to me, but people say you can get a hundred people 
 here to give that, so I hope it may succeed. Then 
 we gave up one of the pieces we had thought of, and 
 settled to have some tableaux and waxworks instead. 
 
 August 2nd. — ^We had a party which began with 
 a small play which Mr. Nicolson and I acted together. 
 
 When it was over I changed my dress like lightning, 
 and came down while the guests were still drinking 
 
i88i] MY FIRST PARTY 145 
 
 tea and eating ices. I looked round, and, as if I had 
 never thought of it before, said, " Why, here's a 
 musician ; let's have a dance," — and actually there 
 was a place all ready ! a beautiful round room, with 
 a chandelier lighted in it, and an excellent floor, and 
 off we set, and danced till one o'clock — when I caused 
 the musician to disappear, and, after a few sandwiches 
 and a little supper, the guests went too, and every one 
 was delighted, and considered " My -first party " an 
 enormous success. We were all very pleased with 
 ourselves. The two actors were very conceited, and 
 the prompter (Katie) was equally delighted. We 
 all went to bed in the best of spirits. 
 
 Wednesday, ^rd. — ^After tea in the garden we started 
 in the big caique, and the Antelope barge, for the 
 Genoese Castle, at the mouth of the Black Sea. On 
 our way, we went in a body to congratulate the Russian 
 Ambassadress on her f^te-day. 
 
 Arrived at " Kavak," we climbed up a great hill, 
 to the old Castle, which is a very picturesque ruin, 
 and from which there is a very fine view over the 
 Black Sea on one side and over the Bosphorus on the 
 other. 
 
 Thursday, 4th. — I think I told you we have a little 
 refugee boy in the house, who is by way of being a 
 servant, but who is in reality much more of a pet 
 and plaything. He was sent us by Mrs. Hanson, an 
 English lady who has done much for all these poor 
 people. His mother works for her, and his sister was 
 living as a servant in the house. The girl is only 
 fourteen, and is very delicate, in fact consumptive, 
 and she hated the yashmak over her mouth so much 
 that she would not wear it. Well, a groom there 
 fell in love with her, and, although all his relations 
 were very angry at his marrying a woman who had 
 been seen by Christian and other men, he determined 
 to do so. Mrs. Hanson wrote and asked the children 
 
146 A WEDDING [ch. hi 
 
 if they would like to see the wedding, and I said I 
 would go too. The news of this had the effect of 
 healing the family feud, and all the bridegroom's 
 relations came to the ceremony. 
 
 When we arrived at Mrs. Hanson's house the bride, 
 (who has not a farthing, and was dressed in presents), 
 appeared, looking very pretty, with a very thin 
 yashmak, a brown silk gown, a green gauze veil over 
 the yashmak, and streamers of gold and silver thread 
 in her hair ; she kissed our hands, and we presented 
 some little gifts ; then we walked to her new abode, 
 she following. At the door of the house the bride- 
 groom, a nice-looking young man, met us, kissed our 
 hands, and received us in a little hall at the bottom of 
 the stairs. As soon as the bride entered the women 
 seized upon her and took off her yashmak, and then 
 turned her round to the man, who was supposed to 
 see her for the first time. He then put his arm under 
 hers and helped her upstairs, this being the ceremony. 
 He conducted her to a sitting-room, where the door 
 was shut for one minute, and then he was hustled 
 away, and we were all admitted to her presence. She 
 sat on a sofa, and we on divans round the room. 
 Two sisters-in-law, with strongly painted eyebrows, 
 sat each side of her, and her mother-in-law in front, 
 and she might not speak until this new relation of 
 hers gave her leave. The bride's nails and the tops 
 of her fingers were stained black. Some bonbons and 
 little biscuits were handed round, and after a time 
 we made conversation. The bride, at a big wedding, 
 sits in state for three days, and has a feast, and the 
 bridegroom also feasts in his part of the house 
 for the same time. In the afternoon he goes to the 
 mosque, where he meets a male relation of the 
 woman's ; he is asked what dowry he gives, and he 
 says some prayers. 
 
 There is also some little betrothal ceremony when 
 
i88i] PRINCESS HALIM 147 
 
 a ring is given, but the actual marriage is astonish- 
 ingly simple. In the evening, when he sees his bride 
 again, he lays a mat at her feet, and says his prayers 
 before her. 
 
 Friday, ^th. — We were watching for the arrival of 
 our school-boys almost all the afternoon, but they 
 only got here at eight. We had managed, opera-glass 
 in hand, to get dressed for dinner, and when the 
 steam launch appeared we went on to the quay, 
 the children in the wildest excitement, to receive 
 the new-comers. They all three looked very well, 
 and till the last two days had had beautiful weather. 
 
 Saturday, 6th. — ^There was a most exciting cricket- 
 match to-day. The Embassy against the World. I 
 am quite beginning to understand the game, which I 
 never did before. We won by a hundred runs in 
 one innings, and were proportionately proud of 
 ourselves. 
 
 Sunday, yth. — Church. In the afternoon, one of 
 our dragomans asked us to have tea at his kiosque. 
 He has built a little two-roomed house on a hill, 
 with a magnificent view of the Black Sea from it, 
 and he had tea in a tent for us. He has a great 
 collection of rifles, which he produced, and got the 
 gentlemen to fire at some glass balls. Our host is 
 Sir Alfred Sanderson. 
 
 Monday, Sth. — I had some visits to pay to-day, 
 so, after making my company rehearse their play, K. 
 and I started in the Mouche, to see Princess Halim. 
 Her husband is the great-grandson of Mehemet Ali. 
 She was educated with his daughter, and is very nice- 
 looking, gentle, and lady-like. 
 
 They knew we were coming, so Prince Halim met 
 me at the door, and armed me up through a house, 
 and then over a little bridge, and through his garden 
 to a small house, where the Princess received us. 
 The room was European and so was her dress — 
 
148 A FANCY BALL [ch. in 
 
 white gaze de Chambery, with mauve bows. Prince 
 Halim stayed in the room. While we were talking, 
 two women came in, bearing long and most gorgeous 
 pipes, and two more brought little stands for the bowl 
 of the pipe — ^made of gold and amber — which were 
 placed on the floor. My pipe had a beautiful amber 
 mouthpiece, surrounded by diamonds. I smoked 
 a little and thought it delicious ; but, as I had to talk 
 too, the pipe soon went out. Then four women 
 brought us each a cup of coffee. Princess Halim 
 herself smoked a cigarette, which she held in the most 
 lovely jewelled pair of pincers. The two sons, boys 
 of seventeen and eighteen, who speak English well, 
 showed us their drawings, and Prince Halim also 
 exhibited an oil picture he is doing, which he is going 
 to give D. 
 
 Wednesday, loth. — I had a rehearsal to-day, but 
 every one was much too full of a coming Fancy Ball 
 given by the officers of the Antelope to think of their 
 acting ; and now I have to tell you about this 
 great and most successful event. 
 
 I will begin with our own dresses. D. wore the 
 Down Hunt coat. I dressed after one of the Sheridan 
 pictures — ^white muslin, powder, large hat, and tall 
 cane. 
 
 Katie wore a mob cap on the top of a curly head, 
 and a Pompadour dress, which was very pretty. 
 
 Archie was an Algerian in white and gold. Mr. 
 Kennedy, in blue and silver, was a character in some 
 opera. Mr. Nicolson was Ruy Bias, all in black ; 
 but the great success of the party was Mr. Sartoris 
 and Terence as a Chinaman with his wife. Mr. 
 Sartoris is very tall, and he got up the Chinese dress 
 beautifully. He had a bald head, with long pigtail — 
 the correct hat and the long moustaches — a yellow 
 silk jacket, purple petticoat, and the shoes with very 
 thick white soles, which raised him a good bit. He 
 
i88i] THE PERSIAN AMBASSADRESS 149 
 
 looked the character to the hfe, and he towered 
 above every one. 
 
 Then Terence wore a real and very beautiful 
 Japanese dress, which was lent, and I had a wig made 
 for him. You never saw such a perfect little figure 
 as he looked, with his parasol and his fan, and his 
 grave face. 
 
 The Antelope was beautifully arranged. The 
 whole deck and bridge were covered in with sails 
 and flags — every square corner was filled with 
 flowers, and lines and lines of coloured oil-lamps were 
 slung about. Chandeliers were also hung up, and 
 the whole was beautifully lighted. 
 
 As for dancing, we began at ten, and finished at 
 three ; and Katie not only danced every dance, but 
 had four or five partners for each — ^for here, gentle- 
 men allow their partners to take turns with other 
 people, so that girls get a great deal of dancing, — 
 and when they are popular, they need never stop. 
 The supper and the refreshments were all good, and 
 there was not a hitch of any kind. 
 
 Thursday, nth. — ^We thought that a nice quiet 
 afternoon would do us good, so we went in the 
 caique and launch down to a deserted palace and 
 garden belonging to the Khedive, and there we had 
 tea, and the children played about. 
 
 Friday, 12th. — ^A hot day. The Persian Ambassa- 
 dress came to see me. When she arrived she came 
 into the drawing-room muffled up completely. She 
 and her maid, or governess, wore thick coloured 
 handkerchiefs over their faces ; that is the Persian 
 yashmak. They had cloaks which looked as if they 
 had put their petticoats over their heads ; the lower 
 part covered the dress, and was fastened to the waist, 
 and when the upper part was thrown back it was just 
 like a large tunic over the skirt. When my friend 
 did unveil she displayed more than her face, for she 
 
150 ST. SOPHIA [CH. Ill 
 
 is a very large woman, and she had a square gown and 
 short sleeves. 
 
 As it is Ramadhan, she would neither eat nor 
 smoke, and the conversation, which was interpreted 
 by a small black boy, lagged fearfully. It was very 
 hard to think of subjects of interest, and each new 
 topic was very quickly exhausted. And the black 
 boy, who was there to interpret, would answer our 
 simple questions himself, without passing them on 
 to her, which was tiresome of him. All men were 
 carefully excluded, and she would not even see the 
 Ambassador. 
 
 As soon as she left we started off in the Antelope 
 for Stamboul, where we went to see St. Sophia 
 illuminated. We had a pleasant journey down, 
 dining on board — a party of twelve — and in town 
 we met Mr. Sartoris and Terence, who had gone to be 
 photographed in their Chinese dresses. My poor 
 maid had a fearful day of it. She started by an early 
 boat, to go and dress Terence for the photograph, 
 but he and Mr. Sartoris missed the steamer, and she 
 landed all alone at Pera, unable to speak to a soul, 
 or to ask for a carriage, or say where she wanted to 
 go. Then she was surrounded by men trying to get 
 her bag from her, and this went on for two hours in a 
 hot sun. When Mr. Sartoris got to town, he sent 
 to look for her, and she was rescued, but even her 
 angelic temper was a little ruffled. 
 
 We reached St. Sophia at half-past eight, and, 
 being a little early, the church was only half lighted. 
 Our places were in a gallery, and we reached it by 
 steep winding pathways (not stairs), a man walking 
 before us holding a dim light. When we reached our 
 seats we looked down upon the immense space — 
 quantities of chandeliers far below us, and children 
 rushing about, shrieking and thoroughly enjoying 
 their enormous playground. St. Sophia having been 
 
 II 
 
ST. SOPHIA. 
 From stereograph copyright bj' Underwood & Underwood, New York. 
 
I 
 
i88i] ST. SOPHIA 151 
 
 built for a Christian church, the altar did not face 
 quite the right way for the Mahomedans, and so 
 everything in it is a little askew, which has a curious 
 effect. The steps to the altar slant a little, and the 
 lines and lines of carpet all lie slanting. It is a 
 beautiful church, but there are enormous wooden 
 shields hung up, with the name of the prophet, etc., 
 on them, which are not worthy of the marble columns 
 and beautiful architecture. 
 
 It was lighted with oil-lamps, rows and rows of 
 them ; one row round the dome, which is very beauti- 
 ful, and which in the day-time looks as if it was 
 resting upon nothing. 
 
 Soon we heard the call to prayers, and the place 
 filled rapidly. The men came in carrying their boots, 
 and all placed themselves in lines, with spaces 
 between each. I never saw anything more impres- 
 sive than the service. There was the melancholy 
 and barbarous wail of the priest reading the Koran, 
 and every now and then more voices joining in, then 
 a rustle, when the whole congregation bent forward, 
 and then the sound as of a great wave, when they 
 all fell down upon their knees, with their faces on 
 the ground. The sight of all these human beings in 
 the attitude of profoundest humility was most 
 striking, and, although dead silence prevailed, one 
 seemed to feel " Lord have mercy upon us, miserable 
 sinners," in the air. 
 
 The same thing happened over and over again, but 
 it always produced the same effect upon me. Self- 
 abasement, adoration, devotion, all seemed thor- 
 oughly expressed by the service, and one scarcely 
 knew which was most effective, the barbaric wail or 
 the moments of silent meditation. 
 
 People differ about it as a sight ; some say there is 
 nothing to see, that it is all dull, etc. I think it one of 
 the grandest things I ever saw, and, seated far above 
 II / 
 
152 A GARDEN PARTY [ch. hi 
 
 these people, I felt as if I was assisting at a dream, 
 a sort of revelation, and not at a real church service. 
 Home by moonlight. 
 
 Tuesday, i6ih. — ^The day of my large garden party. 
 We had little establishments in various parts of the 
 garden ; but our great salon was on the terrace 
 by the tennis-ground. There we had a band, and 
 some Danish young ladies, who sang with it. A 
 long table for refreshments, and any ugly walls were 
 hidden by flags. 
 
 The people began to arrive punctually at four, 
 and, as those who speak no known language generally 
 come first, the mauvais quart d^heure at the beginning 
 was very mauvais indeed. 
 
 I had Turks to whom I found it very difficult to 
 talk, the Sultan's brother-in-law being the first 
 arrival ; and then a number of Greek and Armenian 
 priests, bishops, and archbishops, in wonderful 
 dresses. I walked along with two, whose mitres were 
 covered with red and purple veils, to the tea-table, 
 and I was much relieved when the crowd began to 
 pour in. Everybody seemed very much pleased, 
 and the party is esteemed a success. There were 
 276 guests at it. 
 
 Wednesday, 17th. — ^My enterprising boy, Archie,^ 
 swam across the Bosphorus this morning ! It is 
 quite a feat, and he could get no one else to do it 
 with him. It took him an hour, and a boat followed 
 him. D. was anxiously watching with a glass, and 
 we were glad when we heard he had landed. 
 
 In the afternoon we went a very long ride and 
 drive to the Bends. We did not get home till eight, 
 and had to dress hurriedly for dinner and a rehearsal. 
 
 Friday, igth. — ^The ladies who are to sing at our 
 performance came to see me. One, a Mademoiselle 
 
 ^ Then Lord Clandeboye — afterwards Earl of Ava. Fell mortally 
 wounded at Ladysmith, January 6th, 1900. 
 
i88i] STAMBOUL 153 
 
 Vincino, has a lovely voice. She has lived all her 
 life by the Bosphorus, but had never been on it before 1 
 
 Saturday, 20th. — Katie and I, and children, went 
 in the steam launch with M. Onou to see a fair going 
 on in the Pigeon Mosque at Stamboul. This part of 
 our sight-seeing was disappointing, as the fair was 
 absolutely nothing to see. The court of the mosque 
 was full of pigeons. M Onou then took us a very 
 interesting drive through the streets of Stamboul, 
 where every passer-by is a picture ; showed us the 
 Hippodrome, and Suleiman's Mosque, after which 
 we went to St. Sophia. 
 
 It is beautifully lighted, and looks much finer by 
 day than at night, as one can see its enormous size, 
 and admire the mosaic ceilings, and the beautiful 
 marble columns, with their carved capitals. 
 
 We shuffled along in the slippers we were given at 
 the door, and, in addition to the building, we saw an 
 interesting service going on. A preacher was ex- 
 pounding the Koran, and round him sat the faithful 
 with their hands reverently spread out, and giving 
 him the warmest expressions of approval by con- 
 stantly calling out, with great fervour, "Amen," or 
 " God is great." 
 
 In another part of the church was a second 
 preacher, and all about its vast proportions lay, sat, 
 or knelt people sleeping, reading the Koran, listening 
 or praying. We thought they looked askance at us, 
 and I am sure our presence is disagreeable to them ; 
 and in Ramadhan, they are in very bad humour. 
 
 You know, of course, that this is their great fast, 
 and that they neither eat, drink, nor smoke from 
 sunrise to sunset. I feel so sorry for my boatman, 
 (the others are Greek), and I fancy that he looks 
 even hotter than usual when he rows, and that it is 
 cruelty to animals. The men miss their cigarettes 
 so much that many of them carry a rosary, and 
 
154 BEIKOS [CH. Ill 
 
 occupy their fingers with the beads, trying to cheat 
 themselves into not missing the roUing up and the 
 holding of the accustomed weed. 
 
 When we came back we saw two such very smart 
 Turkish ladies in a caique. Their yashmaks were 
 of the thinnest, their dresses Europeanised as much 
 as possible, and they had a beautiful red-and-gold 
 embroidery thrown over the boat. But I heard of a 
 lady of good family being taken up by the police the 
 other day because she allowed her Feridje (cloak), 
 to fly open as she walked, in order to display a beauti- 
 ful Parisian dress ; so, at any rate, the police try 
 to maintain the old customs. I am invited to the 
 last remaining real old-fashioned harem, the first 
 day of Bairam. 
 
 Wednesday, 24th. — ^A family birthday! We set off 
 in caique and steam launch to have tea at Beikos, 
 on our way to Bala Bay. This is a very fine palace 
 on the Bosphorus, uninhabited now, like many others. 
 It was quite sad to see such a lovely place empty. 
 The rooms are beautifully decorated, and there are 
 handsome stuffs, clocks, etc., in them. One room 
 was very beautiful, being entirely done from ceiling 
 to floor with wood of various colours in mosaic 
 patterns, and polished columns, etc. The gardens 
 are pretty, too, and we were all interested and excited 
 over two magnificent tigers they have there. They 
 are in an enormous cage, and, far from being sleepy 
 as they look in England, they rushed about, growhng 
 and flying at the bars, causing us all to retreat 
 precipitately — our protector, the cavass, almost 
 tumbling down in his alarm. 
 
 Thursday, 2Sth. — Had a dinner of fourteen, and a 
 dance of a hundred after. Happily, one is able to 
 do this very simply here — ^just a refreshment- table 
 with sandwiches, tea, cakes, etc. It was a hot 
 night, but the doors into the garden were open, and 
 
i88i] VISIT TO AN EGYPTIAN PRINCESS 155 
 
 people danced vigorously, and roamed about outside 
 to cool. 
 
 Friday, 26th. — Bairam. We were all much dis- 
 appointed at not being allowed to go to the great 
 ceremonies ; but it appears that so many people 
 asked for tickets that they could not all get them, 
 and so the Sultan let no one go. I was consoled first 
 by the fact that we should have had to get up at 
 four — and secondly, by knowing that I was to see 
 a harem in the afternoon. 
 
 I had received permission to visit a daughter of 
 the great Mehemet Ali, a Princess of Egypt, who 
 keeps up the old style ; she is a widow. 
 
 When we arrived, Katie and I and a lady who 
 is staying with Count Corti, we were shown into a 
 very large room, or hall, laid down with matting, 
 and at first sight containing no furniture, though 
 there were really some low divans and mattresses on 
 the floor. We were received by a rather plain old 
 lady, in a white princess dress, short hair, and a 
 muslin turban or fez, with a large emerald brooch to 
 fasten it behind. She wore an enormous gold medal 
 as a brooch, which the English gave to her father, 
 and which had an inscription on it. Her watch had 
 rows of diamonds on it, and on one side Mehemet 
 Ali's portrait, on the other his arms. There were 
 lots of diamonds at the other end of the chain and 
 seals, etc. On her finger a big diamond. She pos- 
 sesses splendid jewels, but unhappily most of them 
 were in town, she said. We shook hands, and passed 
 through into another room, where we sat down on 
 a divan and smoked cigarettes (yes, both of us), 
 and drank coffee out of diamond-encrusted cups, 
 and ate bonbons which were carried in on a table 
 with a splendid velvet embroidery hanging over it. 
 There must have been from seventy to a hundred girls 
 in the large room, and they came in and passed out. 
 
156 A HAREM [ch. hi 
 
 and brought things, and stood with folded arms, 
 and we looked at them and their dresses. They all 
 wore bright colours, and all had a muslin turban or 
 some ribbons or something on their heads. Their 
 dresses were mostly thin silk, and so long that even 
 when they lifted one end, and tucked it into the band 
 at their waist, it still trailed on the ground, I was 
 very glad to find Princess Halim and her sons (young j 
 boys) there. We know them, and, as they speak j 
 French and English, it was much easier to carry on j 
 the conversation. Another old and very fat lady | 
 came in and squatted on a mattress, smoking. | 
 
 Presently, in the large room, eight or ten girls 
 began to play different instruments. The music was 1 
 Turkish, and very peculiar and monotonous. One j 
 girl had a fiddle, and several had tambourines, and j 
 they sang or rather crooned some melancholy ditties. 
 This went on for some time, and then another set 
 gave us Egyptian music, different instruments and 
 slightly different music. We stayed about an hour 
 and a half, and occupied ourselves principally in 
 looking at the innumerable women flitting about, 
 and at their dresses, I saw no pretty faces. There 
 was one with golden hair and painted face, very 
 unlike the others. We wondered who she was. 
 
 The princess is a clever old woman. She adopts 
 and brings up these girls, and I suppose, in time, 
 marries them, I thought the harem life must 
 be very dull ; there was not a symptom anywhere of 
 any employment. We got on very well as to con- 
 versation, but there is nothing to relate, I was rather 
 amused at the old lady, who, hearing that Princess 
 Radzivill (the visitor with me), had married at 
 fifteen, asked her if it was a love match. 
 
 Princess Halim suggested what a fine room it would 
 be for a ball, " if we gave such things." I asked 
 her if the ladies ever danced together, but she said, 
 
i88i] DANCING DERVISHES 157 
 
 " there would be no charm in that." However, she 
 said she " would much rather travel than go to a 
 ball." We parted with many compliments and 
 messages from our hostess to D. 
 
 Tuesday, '^oth. — I went into town with the children 
 to see the Dancing Dervishes. We lunched at the 
 Embassy at Pera, and then proceeded to the place 
 where they perform. We were shown upstairs, and 
 found ourselves in a gallery, which made the square 
 room into an octagon shape, and which looked down 
 upon the parquet prepared for the Dervishes. In the 
 next partition in the gallery were four most superior 
 Dervishes. One in pink, one in green, others in brown 
 and grey cloaks with loose sleeves. Their head-dress 
 is a tall brown or white felt hat like a clown's. In 
 the " ball-room " there were seventeen dressed in the 
 same fashion, but in various shades of brown, and 
 with bare feet. The chief had a green turban round 
 his hat, and his cloak reached to the ground. The 
 service began with prayers, prostrations, and the 
 most extraordinary singing you can imagine. It 
 proceeded from our neighbours in the gallery, and, 
 with all my sense of reverence for other people's 
 devotions, I could not but think- it funny to hear 
 such odd sounds proceeding from the mouth of the 
 grave green gentleman. The singing of the man in 
 pink, accompanied by a pressure of his hands upon 
 his chest, and an inclination of his figure, which 
 ended by bringing his forehead to the ground, the 
 voice meanwhile appearing to emerge from the depths, 
 was irresistibly suggestive of a sea voyage. 
 
 The performers below were sitting on their heels 
 during these prayers, every now and then falling for- 
 wards on their faces. The chief man sat opposite 
 the gallery, in the dancing enclosure, on a mat spread 
 for him. Once he took up the role of minister, and, 
 with his hands open before him, recited something. 
 
158 DANCING DERVISHES [ch. hi 
 
 When this service had been going on for some time 
 the man in green suddenly produced a long cane, 
 and, blowing into one end of it, brought forth some 
 feeble sounds by way of music. The seventeen below 
 squatted round the enclosure. Presently one got 
 up, and we saw that he had, in some mysterious 
 manner, become possessed of a long white skirt ; 
 and then all the others gradually lengthened out into 
 white petticoats. We saw, afterwards, that these 
 were all tied up with a string round the waist. The 
 pipes (four) in the gallery now played as vigorously 
 as they could, and the chief in the green turban, 
 gravely bowing to the assembly, stepped forward 
 and walked slowly round the room followed by all 
 the others in procession. When he got back to his 
 mat he took his place again, and as each Dervish 
 came up to him and bowed, kissing the front of his 
 dress, the chief stooped and kissed his ear, and the 
 Dervishes continued to march slowly round. The 
 second time they passed, it was very pretty and 
 graceful to look at. As the man reached the corner 
 of the mat he stopped and bowed profoundly, with 
 his arms crossed on his breast ; then with two steps, 
 and keeping his face to the chief, he reached the other 
 corner of the mat, and turned again, bowing pro- 
 foundly, this time to the Dervish following him, who 
 was now at his original place. As the procession 
 went round, there were always two making these 
 profound salutations across the mat, and the regu- 
 larity and grace of it were very striking. The second 
 time they went round the Dervish began to turn 
 slowly the moment he had made his bow ; at first his 
 arms were crossed, but after a few turns he stretched 
 them out, and when the whole seventeen were turning 
 at once, with distended white garments, and out- 
 stretched arms, it really was a most curious thing to 
 see. Their feet were bare, and one could not see how 
 
i88i] THE TREASURY 159 
 
 they moved, or what step enabled them to get round 
 so smoothly. 
 
 They got to look quite like machines, but some 
 did it better than others. Unfortunately, we forgot 
 to time them, but they go on for a surprisingly long 
 time, and when they finish they bow as profoundly 
 and as steadily as ever. When twisting, they do 
 not appear to move, but in reality they do change 
 places. At the end of the twirl they again go round, 
 in procession, and begin again as before. They all 
 take off their cloaks before dancing, and appear only 
 in white jackets and skirts ; and when they have 
 finished and begin to pray again, some one goes 
 round and covers them up with their cloaks. 
 
 Thursday, Sept. ist. — ^We went to see the Treasury, 
 and the big Palace to-day. There is a great fuss about 
 getting permission for the Treasury, and when you 
 get there a host of men follow you about, and make 
 you feel very ticket-of-leavish. 
 
 I did not care much for it. Precious boxes, and 
 watches, daggers, and inlaid trays are charming if 
 you can have them in your own room, but all collected 
 in glass cupboards, with " touch not, handle not, 
 flatten your nose, and see what you can " sort of 
 feeling in the air, I do not personally care the least 
 for them, and emeralds in a jar, and pearls in a basin, 
 are not more beautiful than the ordinary pebble, 
 when they are stowed away in the dark recesses of 
 these cupboards. 
 
 Of course there are lovely things, but you will 
 appreciate them far more if you read about them 
 than if you go to see them and have to pay all the 
 policemen who stand over you, largely for their 
 trouble. The thing that did interest me sounds 
 frivolous — the dresses of about thirty Sultans, begin- 
 ning with " Mahmoud, the Conqueror." The turbans 
 and the daggers^began by being enormous, and they 
 
i6o THEATRICAL ENTERTAINMENT [ch. hi 
 
 gradually grew smaller, till one fine day when a 
 certain enterprising Sultan jumped from his oriental 
 robes, and large white head-dress, into a sort of 
 lancer uniform, and a red fez. There the illustrations 
 stop. 
 
 We were taken round by an A.D.C. of the Sultan, 
 a young man who served six years in the Russian 
 army, fought with it, and was wounded by the Turks, 
 ran away from the Russians, and, like the Prodigal of 
 old, has had the fatted calf and the ring of gold for 
 his portion, on his return. We were given a spoonful 
 of rose jam, a glass of water, and cigarettes (for the 
 men), before leaving. 
 
 Next we went to Dolmah Batchi, the Palace. I 
 was much disappointed with it : bad French furni- 
 ture, hideous carpets, horrid pictures, and the one 
 magnificent hall in it spoilt — ^first by the dreadful 
 bad taste of the painting, and, secondly, by having 
 no fine entrance to it. 
 
 Thursday, Sth. — ^The great entertainment for the 
 new church came off last night, and so of course 
 there was much to do in the day, and, thanks to Mr. 
 Sartoris, the stage was lovely, with vines overgrowing 
 the outside, and the lighting most successful. 
 
 People began to come before half-past eight, while 
 I was busy putting final touches of paint to different 
 people. The play Naval Engagements came first, 
 and went off admirably, before a hundred and twenty 
 people. After it was a lovely trio, and then the 
 spectators were allowed to walk about a little 
 before the second part began. 
 
 The first tableau was Le Printemps, after the 
 picture of that name, and with Gounod's song sung 
 to it. I cannot tell you what a lovely effect it had, 
 when a mysterious voice was heard in the darkness, 
 and when a curtain slowly rolled up, revealing a 
 most idyllic picture. 
 
i88i] ABDUL HAMID i6i 
 
 The boy in a loose brown shirt, with bare arms and 
 legs, the girl in pale blue, with bare feet and dis- 
 hevelled golden locks, appeared together in a swing. 
 The background was a wood, and the scene was the 
 success of the night. 
 
 These two pictures were the best, but the others 
 were also very pretty. Freddy sat beautifully in 
 his. He was on the floor playing with a net, and the 
 group consisted of Italian peasants and fisherwomen. 
 
 I am happy to say every one was pleased, and 
 that all went off admirably. The music was beautiful, 
 and I hear a rage for tableaux-vivants has set in. 
 
 Mr. Kennedy asked us all to supper afterwards, 
 and he had it most beautifully arranged in the secre- 
 taries' house — Chinese lanterns, bouquets for the 
 ladies, flags, a band, etc. 
 
 Friday, gth. — Next morning we went to Pera in 
 the steam launch, to see the Sultan go to mosque. 
 
 Sir Alfred Sanderson went with us, and we arrived 
 quite early, and saw everything. The Sultan is in 
 such fear of his life (a mania he has), that he goes 
 to a mosque quite close to his gate ; but, although 
 the space is small, it is a very fine sight. 
 
 One sees quantities of soldiers, and very fine ones 
 they are, numbers of most picturesque dresses, and 
 some very gorgeous ones. We stood on the steps of 
 a guard-house, half-way between the gate of the 
 Palace, and the mosque — so that we could see the 
 whole route plainly. Troops lined the whole space, 
 and different bands played all the time. 
 
 When the Sultan was ready, the gates opened, 
 and all the Pashas walked first in their fine uniforms, 
 and behind them came the Sultan on a splendid 
 horse. He is small, and very pale and melancholy- 
 looking, and he just glanced out sideways at where 
 we stood. Then he went into the mosque, and the 
 service lasted half an hour. 
 
i62 THE SALAMNIK [ch. hi 
 
 When it was over, but before he came out, all the 
 troops left, and this was a very interesting part of 
 the performance, as they passed us twice. The 
 space being limited, they went up, turned round, and 
 marched back again. The two columns going in 
 different directions, the music and the dresses, all 
 made this a very fine sight. The Sultan's own black 
 regiment with green turbans was a feature of it. 
 The Sultan drove back in a victoria lined with blue 
 satin, some splendidly dressed footmen running by 
 him. 
 
 He sent his secretary to tell me he was glad to see 
 me, and that, if the Ambassador had been present, he 
 would have asked to see him. 
 
 One of the ladies of the Harem had come in a 
 carriage to look on, and, as she drove away, she threw 
 money out of the window, upon which, beggars 
 swarmed into the place, and such a scramble ensued 
 as you cannot imagine. The cripples threw away 
 their crutches, and grovelled on the ground in search 
 of the coppers ; fezes were lost in the scrimmage, the 
 most picturesque and barbarous confusion prevailed, 
 and, finally, when a chamberlain continued the 
 largesse, he was set upon by the crowd and almost 
 torn to pieces, the soldiers having great difficulty in 
 keeping the greedy mob off him and off us. We saw 
 some bloody cheeks, and heard a few howls, but five 
 minutes after every one looked as good-tempered as 
 possible. 
 
 Monday, 12th. — ^We had a delightful sail to the 
 Islands, where we all got on donkeys, and rode up 
 to the top of " Prinkipo." One of the children was 
 ill, and D. was too busy to come, so they spoilt by 
 their absence what was to have been a complete 
 family party, and a farewell to the boys who now 
 return to school. We dined on board the Antelope, 
 and, unluckily, the captain accepted my invitation, 
 
i88i] SCUTARI . 163 
 
 and was at table when a crash was heard overhead. 
 We ran into a brig which did us some Httle damage ; 
 she was carrying no Hght. 
 
 Thursday, i^th. — D. went to see the Sultan, and 
 had a satisfactory interview. His Majesty wishes to 
 see the " Hero of the Bosphorus " (Archie). He had 
 his horses shown to D. 
 
 In the evening Prince and Princess Halim dined 
 with us. D. was permitted to be present, and we 
 had a great discussion about the men servants, but 
 finally settled to let them wait on us. She came in 
 her yashm.ak, which I undid for her, and wore an 
 order over her shoulder and diamonds in her hair. 
 We were eight ladies and two gentlemen, and after 
 dinner we all had to smoke. Though she is very nice, 
 it is hard to talk to her, as she does not carry on a 
 conversation, and one has to be continually inventing 
 new subjects. 
 
 Thursday, 22nd. — Mr. and Mrs. Plunkett leave next 
 Wednesday for Paris, where he has been appointed 
 first secretary, and, as they were very anxious to see 
 the Howling Dervishes before going, we went with 
 them to-day in our lovely steam launch, and had a 
 picnic lunch in her on our way to Scutari. When 
 we got there we had time to drive up to a hill from 
 which we had a magnificent view, the Sea of Marmora 
 on one side, a bird's-eye view of Constantinople and 
 the Golden Horn, and the Bosphorus winding its way 
 to the Black Sea, and plains with distant mountains 
 on the other, completing the circle. Then we pro- 
 ceeded to the mosque, having rattled over the 
 roughest roads you can imagine, we inside the 
 carriage knocking against each other, and feeling at 
 every moment on the verge of going over. 
 
 Scutari is a most picturesque, dirty, characteristic- 
 looking village, and I walked through it on our way 
 back, so as to enjoy the sight of the inhabitants and 
 
i64 HOWLING DERVISHES [ch. in 
 
 the funny little shops. One feature of a Turkish 
 village at this time is the fruit. The greengrocers' 
 shops are lovely ! The walls are covered with rows 
 and rows of melons and pumpkins of every size and 
 colour, and a great sloping counter is laid out with 
 tomatoes, cucumbers, " aubergines " (which in the 
 dictionary is " mad-apple " in English), a long, purple 
 fruit, figs, etc., and all along the streets in every 
 available place one sees great hampers of white 
 grapes, which even the beggars feed upon I These 
 are famous grapes, and the proper way to eat them, 
 is to put about ten into your mouth at once ; they 
 only have one seed each ; their skins are thin, and 
 they really are delicious ; the very thought of these 
 lovely fruits has carried me away from the Dervishes. 
 
 In case your ideas on the subject should have been 
 similar to my own, I will correct your wrong impres- 
 sions. The greater number of the performers are not 
 Dervishes at all, but are passers-by who volunteer 
 to come in and howl, or who are moved by the spirit 
 to do so ; their powers of working themselves into 
 hysterics vary, therefore, and on this occasion they 
 were not great. 
 
 We were admitted into the mosque, which is very 
 small — a narrow passage is railed off on three sides 
 of it, and upstairs is a little gallery where we sat. 
 The Sheik wore a black surplice and a turban, and he 
 was very grave and calm and dignified all the time. 
 He sat on a rug at one end, and opposite him, with 
 their backs to the railing, stood the worshippers. 
 Altogether we saw about twenty, but they did not 
 all go on all the time — two hours. When they meant 
 to begin seriously, a man came round with white 
 skull-caps, which they put on in place of their fezes ; 
 and when they were well into the thing, some of them 
 threw off their robes and displayed themselves in a 
 single white garment, which was soon wringing wet. 
 
i88i] HOWLING DERVISHES 165 
 
 The best performers were black men, and very- 
 hideous they did look. They stood in a row, and none 
 of them ever moved their feet, but they threw them- 
 selves backwards and forwards, and seemed to be 
 doing their very best to get excited ; and the blacks 
 twisted about their heads, and contorted all their 
 muscles, and one of them contrived to look very 
 horrible indeed. The most dreadful sounds pro- 
 ceeded from his chest, and I really began to think, 
 " If they all get like that, it will be very disagreeable 
 indeed " ; but when there was a pause, even the 
 worst of them stopped at once, and seemed neither 
 out of breath nor anything but very hot, and at the 
 end, when we came out, we saw the most violent of 
 them all quite well, and calmly enjoying a cigarette. 
 
 The chief joined, in a very gentle manner, towards 
 the end, and did not even warm himself, and then he 
 retired to his niche, and another interesting ceremony 
 was begun. Babies (supposed to be sick) were 
 brought in and laid on the floor for him to walk upon. 
 One was such a miserable little creature, I felt quite 
 nervous about it ; but I soon saw the Sheik knew 
 what he was about. It is surprising that a baby's 
 body can stand the weight, but evidently if you know 
 where to place your foot the infant is unhurt. 
 
 Tuesday, Sept. 2'jth. — ^The weather quite awful, and 
 all the subscribers are in a great state of mind about 
 the ball which is being given to the officers of the 
 Antelope. Every one has subscribed, except the 
 Heads of Missions, who are invited. It is difficult to 
 get out here in bad weather, as there are so few 
 carriages, and it is so disagreeable for ladies in full 
 dress to get in and out of boats. I had several 
 visitors all bemoaning themselves, and at half-past 
 nine we got into our carriage, the wind howling and 
 the rain pouring. 
 
 The ball committee hired a house for the occasion 
 
i66 ISMID [CH. Ill 
 
 and it was decorated with flags, and there were 
 chandeHers made with swords and pistols, etc. We 
 began at ten, and danced till four in the morning. I 
 was rather horrified to find that the coachman, not 
 having received any orders, had stood at the door 
 the whole night ! He was scolded for his stupidity. 
 
 Tuesday, Oct. 2$th. — ^The time has arrived for moving 
 into Pera, and I feel quite low at leaving Therapia, 
 and having before me the prospect of a new start, 
 new house, new life ! 
 
 Everything is bare now, and boxes are lying about 
 gaping and asking to be filled. Everything one may 
 happen to want has already gone, and it is only the 
 useless things that stick by one to the last. It is 
 really dreadful the idea of moving everything twice 
 a year. We pack, take a last look at the tennis 
 ground, and the gardens, and then we dress for 
 dinner. We are invited by the wardroom officers of 
 the Antelope to dine with them, and we have settled 
 to sleep on board, starting in the night to go to Ismid 
 and spend a day there. 
 
 The dinner was beautifully arranged on the bridge, 
 which was all covered in with flags, and decorated 
 with flowers, the wheel looking particularly pretty 
 with its garlands of Virginian creeper. 
 
 Wednesday , 26th. — I believe the night was rather 
 rough, but I knew nothing about it, and we were in 
 the Gulf of Ismid for breakfast. When we anchored, 
 we went ashore, a party of nine, taking lunch with us, 
 and determined to see all that was to be seen of the 
 ancient " Nicomedia." 
 
 This once great city is now a collection of very 
 poor wooden houses ; very few stones of its walls 
 remain. We went through the bazaars and the 
 streets, saw an Armenian church, and the graves of 
 those who were killed by the bursting of the gun on 
 board the Thunderer. Had a merry luncheon in the 
 

 ^?# 
 
 
 
 ifil 
 
 Na- 
 
 
 THE FRENCH EMBASSY, THERAPIA. 
 From a sketch by Miss Florence Wyndham. 
 
i88i] CONSTANTINOPLE 167 
 
 corner of a field, and then climbed up a high hill to 
 see the view. We had two donkeys to help us a 
 little. A great excitement on the way was, the 
 finding of " Trapdoor spiders," and trying to dig 
 them out with their houses. We succeeded in bring- 
 ing home three. The little house is carefully lined, 
 and at its mouth is a door which opens and shuts, and 
 the spider lives inside and devours flies at his leisure. 
 I can't find any account of these creatures, so I don't 
 know whether the flies " walk into his parlour," or 
 whether he goes out to look for them. As mine must 
 lead an artificial life, I pin down the doors, and put 
 flies in once a day. I also became the happy possessor 
 of a fascinating little tortoise. 
 
 The view over the Gulf of Ismid was well worth the 
 climb, and when we went back to the Antelope we 
 all agreed we had had a most charming afternoon. 
 
 We asked three of the officers to dine with us, and 
 they sang afterwards. At midnight we started for 
 our new home. It has been a very short holiday, but 
 D. dreads an accumulation of business, and won't stay 
 any longer. 
 
 Thursday, 2'jth. — ^We got to Constantinople early 
 and breakfasted on board. 
 
 On arrival at our Embassy I immediately began to 
 arrange my things, and to try and get one room to 
 look habitable, and after lunch we explored the 
 garden, and visited stables, laundry, church, gardener's 
 house, etc. All these buildings open into the garden. 
 Happily the sun shines, and gives us cheerful 
 impressions of our palace. We have had a walk in 
 the streets, a thing we do as new people. The shops 
 are not worth looking at ; the pavements are 
 extremely bad, and ladders, pianos, water- barrels, 
 beds, etc., walk about upon men's backs, so that one 
 has to look down at one's toes lest one should fall 
 into some hole, or trip over some stone ; then, behind 
 12 
 
i6S BAIRAM [CH. Ill 
 
 and on every side so as not to be knocked down by 
 any of the perambulating loads projecting far beyond 
 their bearers' heads. It is not a sociable walk, for 
 one is too occupied to talk. The dogs which sleep 
 comfortably in the very middle of the narrow path 
 add another difficulty, and a dignified and stately 
 gait is impossible. 
 
 However, one takes in, during one's side-glances, 
 an immense number of picturesque figures. In fact, 
 every native is a picture, and it is very interesting to 
 watch them. 
 
 Wednesday, Nov. 2nd. — ^We had rather an adven- 
 turous ride, for just when we got on to an exposed 
 and dusty common, the most fearful squall came on, and 
 the dust flew in such clouds that we could not see 
 an inch before us. We turned our backs to it, but 
 the moment there was a temporary lull we rode down 
 into a sort of area, and there remained more than a 
 quarter of an hour. When we emerged we were 
 covered with dust, and all looked as if we had had 
 falls from our horses ; we had many another terrible 
 mouthful of the dust before we got out of the streets 
 on to a grass field. This storm swept all over the 
 town, 'and delighted the children, who pretended 
 to be camels, and lay down to let it pass over them. 
 It is the eve of the second Bairam, and every 
 native seems to have provided himself with a sheep 
 to kill to-morrow, partly as a sacrifice, partly as a 
 feast. The sheep here are most fascinating ; they have 
 such long silky wool, and are so large, and many of 
 them are got up for the occasion with paint on their 
 cheeks or backs, and gold on their horns ; but the 
 funniest thing to see is the way they are carried home. 
 We passed many men with them on their backs, 
 holding a paw in each hand over their shoulders, just 
 as one would take a child. One man I saw on horse- 
 back, with a great live sheep lying across his knees, 
 
i88i] THE STREET DOGS 169 
 
 and a few are dragged and pushed unceremoniously 
 along much like Irish pigs. 
 
 Before we got; home the minarets were lighted 
 with three rows of lamps, forming a band of light 
 round the largest part of the circle. 
 
 The squall brought up the clouds, and I think we 
 are losing our lovely weather. 
 
 Certainly it is impossible to exaggerate the noise 
 of the Constantinople dogs. We live entre cour ei 
 jardin, still at night I can hear a distant roar of 
 barking, which in the streets must be intolerable ; 
 and added to them is the tramp of the watchman. 
 He does not go on the principle of surprising the 
 unwary, but announces his approach most systemati- 
 cally, by tapping the iron point of his stick along the 
 curb-stones- as he walks. That is the way I should 
 feel inclined to do if I thought robbers were about, 
 but I should not have thought it was the best plan 
 for a policeman to go upon. 
 
 Thursday, 3rc?. — Drove to do a round of visits. 
 Such a business, rough-and-ready pavements, and very 
 ready ruts and holes, and such narrow places to 
 turn in, and such impossible places to walk down. 
 I saw the Russian and French Embassies, but will 
 describe them another day. 
 
 Saturday, $th. — Such a horrid, cold, wet day. In 
 spite of the weather, we kept an engagement we had 
 made to go and visit the Student Interpreters' 
 College, and very cold and wet, when we got there, 
 were we. Their house is at Ortakui. There are six 
 of them, and they have an Armenian teacher living 
 with them. It seems to me an excellent opening 
 for a needy young man, especially if he has any turn 
 for languages. The students are kept and lodged, 
 and have ;^200 a year for five years while studying, 
 and then, if they behave well, they are sure of appoint- 
 ments as consuls or dragomans. The college is always 
 
170 THE BAZAAR [ch. hi 
 
 under one member of the Embassy, and Mr. Nicol- 
 son is now their chief. 
 
 Sunday, 6th. — We went a walk in the afternoon 
 right over to Stamboul and up to the Pigeon Mosque 
 there, in front of which we saw the Turks enjoying 
 the last day of the second Bairam. Grave gentle- 
 men in turbans swinging, and children in merry-go- 
 rounds. 
 
 Tuesday, Sth. — ^At last I have been to the " Bazaar." 
 Mrs. Hanson took Katie and me. She came for us 
 about eleven, and we decided to go in a thoroughly 
 plebeian manner, no cavass, or sign of Ambassa- 
 dorial dignity. You have no idea how thoroughly 
 " Monarch of all I survey " one feels, walking with a 
 cavass through the town ; every biped and four- 
 footed creature is ruthlessly thrust out of the way 
 by the magnificent creature who swaggers in front of 
 one, with his sword in one hand and his whip in the 
 other. 
 
 This time we had only a very shabby old Turk 
 of Mrs. Hanson's carrying a carpet-bag. We walked 
 to the underground railway station, and prepared to 
 go down the tunnel. You go down in one set' of 
 carriages, the weight of which pulls another set 
 up. We went second-class, because, in case of a 
 smash, it appears safer than the first. Then we 
 trudged through some crowded streets, and got into 
 a caique, which took us over the Golden Horn, then 
 a cab conveyed us to the Bazaar. It is a most 
 amusing place, full of every sort of odd costume. It 
 is not very light, but one sees all sorts of things — 
 china, carpets, jewellery, etc., etc., in little shops 
 round it ; and when you begin to bargain for some- 
 thing it is quite a new experience. 
 
 You are told something is worth £i,, and you 
 immediately offer ;^i . The man says that all in his 
 shop is yours — " that he will give you a present of 
 
i88i] THE BAZAAR 171 
 
 it," etc. You produce your one pound and put it 
 down. He sweeps it away, but you calmly take hold 
 of the article you wish to buy, and generally walk 
 off with it, while he shrugs his shoulders and says 
 he is ruined, at the same time picking up the money 
 and putting it in his purse. 
 
 One charming old Turk produced coffee, which we 
 drank in the intervals of bargaining. 
 
 Then we thought we would like to taste " Kabobs," 
 so we got into a thing that looked much like a cab- 
 men's shelter, and, sitting by several Street Arabs, 
 tasted some tough specimens of a very good dish. 
 We also had rather a nice Turkish dish — squares of 
 a sort of blanc-mange with Devonshire cream and 
 sugar. A walk through the Drug Bazaar finished our 
 inspection. It is very pretty, with its bowls full of 
 brilliant- coloured powders, and there are some old 
 wood-carvings along the top of it. 
 
 Friday, nth. — D. went to the Selamnik. He 
 arrived rather late for the procession, but the Sultan 
 returned from the mosque on horseback, instead of 
 in a carriage, so that D. might see him. 
 
 Saturday, 12th. — In the evening we had a dinner, 
 the chief guest being Monsignor Vanutelli, the 
 Pope's Legate, a very tall man looking splendid in 
 his purple silk cloak. 
 
 Monday, 14th. — K. and I paid visits, being carried 
 in Sedan-chairs ; the motion going up-hill is not 
 pleasant, but on rough pavements and precipices 
 such as there are here it is not a bad means of pro- 
 gression. 
 
 Tuesday, 22nd. — ^A bazaar has been arranged to 
 i pay off a debt on the organ in our church. About 
 sixty pounds have been spent locally in buying water- 
 jugs, dessert service, marking-ink and nail-brushes, 
 [ and there is absolutely nothing to raffle or to thrust 
 upon gentlemen victims, so the frivolous members of 
 
172 A DINNER PARTY [ch. hi 
 
 the committee have to set to work to try to pay 
 the debt by means of tea, cake, fortune-telHng, and 
 a fish-pond. Fortunes were written out beforehand, 
 and, as the fortune-tellers know every one, they will be 
 very successful in always saying the right thing to their 
 clients. 
 
 Thursday, 24th. — ^The plot succeeded, and the for- 
 tune-tellers made ^^13 by their divinations ; the sum 
 made by the bazaar was ;£200. 
 
 In the evening we gave a grand dinner to the Turks, 
 our first entertainment here. By some happy inspi- 
 ration I was dressed by twenty minutes past seven (we 
 dined at eight), and calmly entered my drawing-room 
 at that hour to see if all was nicely arranged, when I 
 found a Turk already there ! Luckily he spoke 
 French — but I was left fully twenty minutes alone 
 with accumulating Turks, and all the few possible 
 subjects of conversation were being used up, and 
 I was feeling very shy before any help in the 
 shape of dragomans, secretaries, or a husband ap- 
 peared. 
 
 We were thirty at dinner, and we had a band. My 
 neighbours " The Grand Vizier," Said Pasha, and 
 the Minister for Foreign Affairs, " Assym Pasha," 
 both spoke French, so we got on very well, and Katie 
 sat between the latter and the " Minister for Eccle- 
 siastical Properties," also a French-speaking Turk. 
 The whole thing was much less solemn than I had 
 expected, and I think they really enjoyed it, and were 
 pleased at the thing being well done, and the evident 
 care taken to receive them with honour. I invited 
 the Corps Diplomatique to meet them afterwards, and 
 the band played on, and people seemed to enjoy 
 themselves very much. 
 
 Friday, 2^th. — I went with Mrs. Heap to see the 
 wife of a Pasha. He was once Grand Vizier, and is 
 really a Tunisian. As she cannot speak French, we 
 
i88i] A TURKISH FAMILY 173 
 
 had to have the husband to translate, which always 
 spoils a visit to a Turkish lady. They offered us 
 neither coffee, sweets, nor cigarettes, which was 
 unusual. 
 
 The lady is handsome, but wore an ugly kind of 
 back tarlatan pork-pie, and a European dress. 
 Three daughters came in ; one a bride, engaged since 
 three years of age, and just married. She had a long 
 blue silk gown and diamond necklace, she looked very 
 languid and dull. A second daughter was in pink, 
 and the third, not yet nine, wore a very long yellow 
 silk dress, with a train, her hair done up and a 
 flower in it. The father talked French ; he seemed 
 devoted to this child, and told us she governed the 
 house. 
 
 Presently he ordered his second daughter to play 
 to us, and a servant came in to open the piano. He 
 stopped her in the middle, and said it was too much 
 noise ; and then he made the married one play. This 
 must as yet be a very rare accomplishment for 
 Turkish women. 
 
 When we came in the harem door was locked upon 
 us, and when we went out the key was safely turned 
 upon its inmates. The Pasha then showed us his 
 part of the house. The seats are always arranged 
 straight round the room, and there is seldom anything 
 in the middle of it. He had, however, a table with 
 books on it, and in his own room he had bookshelves 
 (filled), and several instruments, electric and micro- 
 scopic, etc. 
 
 On my way home I went to the German Embassy 
 " Day," always a dull performance. I am struggling 
 not to have mine, that is not to be at home to visitors 
 one afternoon, till after Christmas. I really think 
 seven months of it is too much of a good thing, for I 
 have it in the summer too. 
 
 Saturday, 26th. — We went to a charming little dance 
 
174 A PERSIAN CEREMONY [ch. iii 
 
 in the evening at the Swedish Legation. There were 
 few people, and every one danced vigorously. 
 
 D. went to see a wonderful Persian ceremony, of 
 which he has written me this account : 
 
 " The Persians, who are Shiites, hold in highest 
 reverence Hussein the son of Ali, who was himself 
 the son of Mahomet. Hussein lost his life at Kerbela 
 near the Euphrates, whither he had gone with his 
 wife and children and some seventy followers, to 
 claim the Caliphate, counting upon the support of 
 the people of Kouffa. These, however, failed him in 
 the time of need, and his small party were surrounded 
 by the troops of the actual Caliph, and killed to a man 
 in a succession of single combats, Hussein himself 
 being the last to fall. His wife and an infant son were 
 the only persons who managed to escape from the 
 fatal field. In the course of time a * congeries * of 
 poems and legends gathered round Hussein's name 
 and the event, and every year a tragedy which lasts 
 nine days is performed to celebrate this martyrdom. 
 The Persian colony in Constantinople keep the feast 
 with great solemnity, which culminates in a ceremony 
 which I witnessed. 
 
 " At sunset we repaired to a great khan in Stamboul. 
 Entering through a fine old portal, we found our- 
 selves in a large square surrounded by high buildings, 
 with a mosque or fountain in the centre. The ground- 
 floors of these buildings are ordinarily employed as 
 shops, but on the present occasion they were used 
 like boxes in a play, and were crowded with spec- 
 tators. A regular course was formed by ropes and 
 Turkish guards right round the square, on either side 
 of which all those who could not be accommodated 
 in the boxes were crowded to watch the procession. 
 Its approach was announced by a loud rhythmic 
 thud, which was accompanied by the men who com- 
 posed it beating their naked breasts in response to the 
 cadence of a hymn which was intoned by the officiat- 
 ing priest. In advance of the mass of the procession 
 there came half a dozen men naked down to their 
 
i88i] A PERSIAN CEREMONY 175 
 
 waists, and beating time on their shoulders with their 
 heavy chain-whips, which they flung first over one 
 shoulder and then over the other, until their backs 
 were bloody with the discipline. The crowd marched 
 three times round the square, and then gave place 
 to a still more extraordinary spectacle. This was 
 intended to represent the mournful return of the wives 
 of Hussein to Medina from the scene of the slaughter. 
 First came three or four horses bearing his arms, his 
 steel helmet, his bow, his quiver, and his buckler. 
 Then others carrying a covered palanquin, in which 
 were seated boys dressed as women to represent the 
 harem of the saint. These were followed by rows of 
 children carrying candles, and all dressed in black 
 calico. The whole scene, I must say, was illuminated 
 by a profusion of candles, and by bale-fires placed in 
 buckets along the course, which shed a lurid light on 
 the performance. 
 
 " After the boys there followed some more men, 
 lashing their backs with iron scourges, and various 
 weird-looking figures chanting and gesticulating. 
 Then came the sight. Two rows of wild fanatics who 
 had worked themselves up into a state of frenzy 
 during the course of their nine days' celebration of 
 the festival, linked arm in arm, and each covered 
 with a white robe. Their heads were shaven, and 
 every man held a sword. They walked sideways, 
 with their backs towards the spectators. Between 
 them, marching up and down, were priests and 
 saints gesticulating, chanting, singing, and exciting 
 their fury, which they expressed by slashing their 
 foreheads and the crowns of their heads with their 
 swords, cutting the flesh to the bones till the blood 
 flowed down in streams over their faces, necks, and 
 white mantles. Three times they passed round, each 
 time presenting a spectacle which deepened in its 
 horror. The last time, indeed, they ceased to look 
 human, so wild were their gestures, and so stained 
 and disfigured were they by their gore. The whole 
 air was filled with the smell of blood. Some fainted, 
 others still tottered along supported by their friends, 
 their white faces looking still more ghastly in contrast 
 
176 O'DONOVAN'S ADVENTURES [ch. hi 
 
 with the red streams which trickled, or rather poured, 
 from their gaping scalps. Behind them followed a 
 set of men armed with sticks, whose duty it was as 
 far as possible to mitigate the force of the blows they 
 dealt themselves, by intercepting the blows of the 
 swords before they touched the victims' foreheads, 
 but the zeal of the celebrants constantly beat down 
 these ineffectual barriers. In the procession were 
 three or four children, staggering along after their 
 elders in the same frantic fashion, the line being 
 brought up by a little fellow of six or seven, whose 
 sword, however, they had taken the precaution to 
 blunt, but he kept striking his forehead as furiously 
 as the rest. 
 
 "The Persians present told us that no serious result 
 followed from this performance, and that the wounds 
 are supposed to heal miraculously. Three or four 
 days after, however, there was a rumour that some 
 of the men had died ; but this may not have been 
 true." 
 
 I meant to have gone to hear Mr. O 'Donovan lecture 
 but was unable to do so. He was a prisoner in Merv 
 for nine months, wrote letters to the Daily News, and 
 ended by being appointed their Ambassador by the 
 Turcomans, and, having a robe of honour put upon 
 him, was escorted to the frontier by a guard of honour 
 and was saluted by twenty-one guns. He tells the 
 most wonderful stories of his adventures — for he came 
 to dine with us. He has a strong accent of some 
 kind, not exactly a brogue, and, as he fiercely pulls 
 his moustache, his eyes gleam, and he half gets 
 off his chair with excitement. He has been in 
 French, Spanish, Russian, and Turcoman wars, and 
 so has plenty to tell, and now he goes home to 
 write a book, which he will call From a Prison to, 
 a Throne. 
 
 Have I told you that we are actually going to acti 
 our Great Grandfather's play, The Critic? Is it noti 
 ambitious of us ? Our caste is as follows : 
 
i88i] 
 
 THE CRITIC 
 
 177 
 
 Tilburina 
 
 Confidante 
 
 Two Nieces 
 
 Don Wkiskerandos 
 
 Sir Christopher Hatton 
 
 Lord Leicester . 
 
 Governor of the Fort 
 
 Sir W. Raleigh . 
 
 Master of the Horse 
 
 Lord Burleigh . 
 
 Beefeater 
 
 Sentinels 
 
 Mr. Puff 
 
 Dangle 
 
 Sneer 
 
 Prompter . 
 
 Lady Dufferin 
 
 Helen Blackwood 
 
 Mrs. Goschen — Miss Hamilton 
 
 Major Swaine 
 
 Colonel James Baker, V.C. 
 
 Mr. Bland 
 
 Mr. Kennedy 1 
 
 Hon. C. Hardinge * 
 
 Mr. Nicolson ' 
 
 Hon. R. Bourke * 
 
 Mr. Charteris ^ 
 
 Children 
 
 Mr. Goschen * 
 
 Mr. M. Wallace ' 
 
 Mr. Block 
 
 M, Preciozi 
 
 Nelly has been making the most lovely coat of 
 arms for one of the dresses in The Critic, and my 
 maid Miss Blackwell is inundated with business. 
 She has on hand two fancy dresses, two dominoes, 
 three ruffs, two Marie Stuart caps, three frills for 
 gentlemen, two hats for ditto, etc. etc. It is lucky 
 I have one with " a passion for work," which was the 
 character I received of her. 
 
 Dec. 26th. — Our performance of The Critic ! We had 
 some trouble in the morning, for we had to change 
 our Lord Burleigh. We had arranged to have Mr. 
 Bourke, then he thought he would have left Con- 
 stantinople, so we asked Count Collobiano to do it, 
 then the Sultan invited him to dine at the Palace to- 
 night, so, as Mr. Bourke had not gone we went back 
 to him, and we had to see about his clothes. 
 
 Our local journal had a most flattering notice of 
 
 1 Sir Robert Kennedy, K.C.M.G. 
 
 * Viscount Hardinge of Penshurst. 
 3 Lord Camock. 
 
 * Lord Connemara. 
 ^ Earl Wemyss. 
 
 * Sir Edward Goschen, Bart 
 
 ' Sir Donald Mackenzie Wallace, K.C.I .E. 
 
178 A TURKISH LADY [ch. hi 
 
 our performance, and every one seemed to have en- 
 joyed the evening, which ended up with a dance. I 
 must tell you that the night before we had had a dress 
 rehearsal of the piece, the servants being present. 
 They liked it, but the coachman said he thought it 
 was rather " too scientific." D. was thoroughly 
 pleased with it, I am glad to say. A part was created 
 for Freddie, and he was as grave as a judge, and did 
 it very nicely. We dressed him as a soldier, and he 
 marched in with " Whiskerandos " as his jailor. 
 When the latter left the stage in tears Freddie marched 
 forward and said, " Poor Whiskerandos ! " 
 
 One afternoon I had a very interesting visit from 
 a Turkish lady. She is well educated, and speaks 
 French beautifully. She wore a thin yashmak, but 
 did not take it off. D. came in, and she bitterly 
 bewailed the hard fate of oriental women, and said 
 that, although she was educating her daughters, she 
 often asked herself whether it would not be kinder 
 to leave them in ignorance, as it was only the women 
 who knew nothing who could be happy here. 
 
 She praised her husband, but said how illogical it 
 was that she must not be seen out with him any- 
 where, though poor women go about with theirs. 
 She is " at home " on Tuesdays — and I shall go to 
 see her. 
 
 The children are very happy here. The little ones 
 like it better than Therapia, and say they find some- 
 thing new to do every day. 
 
 That is to say, one day they try to make the 
 donkeys jump, another day they harness them in the 
 cart ; one day they play with the cats, another climb 
 trees, and to-day the excitement is quite intense, 
 because I have allowed them to pick up a scavenger 
 puppy, whose acquaintance they have made in the 
 streets ; so they are going out to look for him, and 
 hope to domesticate him in the garden. 
 
i88i] AN IMPORTANT EVENT 179 
 
 These street dogs really are nice animals, so grateful 
 for the smallest attention ; in the day-time they are 
 as quiet as mice, and sleep peacefully right in the way 
 of everybody ; at night they wake up, and certainly 
 do make a noise. 
 
 Tuesday, 6th. — ^We had a small dance, seventy 
 people. It went off very well indeed. We danced in 
 the blue drawing-room. 
 
 Wednesday , jth. — K. and I called on Madame Halim 
 Pasha . We were handed a tray on which were a bowl 
 of sticky sweet stuff, spoons, and mugs of water. I 
 made a dash at how to use them, but soon saw that 
 I did quite the wrong thing. The lady of the house 
 ate a morsel of the jam, drank a little water, and then 
 left the spoon in it. 
 
 Tuesday, 20th. — I have been very busy with doing 
 nothing, and have not kept up my journal for the last 
 ten days, so now I can only tell you of one important 
 event that has happened. 
 
 On the tenth, Mr.^ and Mrs. Wyndham arrived to 
 take Mr. Plunkett's place. They want a house, 
 and find great difficulty in getting one. They have 
 one child with them, and two more coming. The 
 one already here suits my children exactly, having 
 the same tastes for donkeys, puppies, and cats. 
 
 Sunday, Christmas Day. — ^We had church service 
 in the morning, and then the children were to have 
 had their presents, but a " Pasha " was with their 
 father, and they waited till after lunch ; but when 
 we had all done the Pasha was still there, and at 
 last Freddie's feelings overcame him, and without 
 saying anything he went off to the " Ambassador's " 
 room, walked in, made a bow to the Pasha, who 
 salaamed in return, and said clearly, " Dinner is 
 ready." He came back and told us what he had 
 done, and when it was suggested that probably the 
 
 ^ T he late Sir Hugh Wyndham. 
 
i8o "DINNER IS READY" [ch. hi 
 
 Pasha did not understand English he was quite ready 
 to go off and say it in French. There were shouts of 
 joy when the visitor really left. 
 
 The whole Embassy dined with us ; we were twenty 
 persons in all. 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 WINTER ENTERTAINMENTS 
 
 Sunday, January ist, 1882. — ^There is a great dearth of 
 water here, but our supply of that useful article costs 
 us three pounds a day. It is a case of " Water, water, 
 everywhere," and not a drop to be had. You would 
 think the Bosphorus might supply us, but the last 
 two or three Sultans have unfortunately believed 
 that if they began to construct waterworks they 
 would die, so they have left the city very badly 
 supplied. 
 
 Monday, 2nd. — Princess Halim was to have dined 
 with us to-night, and I had arranged a ladies' dinner 
 for her; but she was prevented coming, so then I 
 asked the husbands, and one or two people in the 
 evening, and we had an impromptu dance which 
 every one said was the jolliest they had ever been to. 
 All the guests were friends, and they were all in good 
 spirits — and we had a tiny cotillon, and the Swedish 
 Sir Roger de Coverley, and everything went off as 
 well as possible ; but I have begun with the evening, 
 and have forgotten the afternoon of this day, which 
 was most important. 
 
 The children had long ago issued invitations for a 
 tea-party in the schoolroom. The guests assembled 
 at half-past four, and in my room upstairs they found 
 a little theatre arranged, and rows of seats for the 
 audience ; all the performers were behind screens. 
 This was a home-made play, called " Snowwhite," 
 in which all the children acted very nicely indeed and 
 
 181 
 
 L 
 
i82 WINTER ENTERTAINMENTS [ch. iv 
 
 the only comic incident which a Httle disturbed us 
 all was caused by the page in the play. 
 
 He had learnt his part at home, and had only 
 rehearsed once, so the first time he got his cue he 
 said his whole part right through to the end ; and 
 later on, when I thought I would get him to say the 
 end of it in its proper place, he began again at the 
 beginning. 
 
 When this was over, we had tea in the schoolroom, 
 and then all sorts of games, tournaments, snap-dragon, 
 and bobbing for apples followed. The Wyndhams, 
 Goschens, and the young men were the guests. They 
 are all so nice, and enter heartily into everything. 
 
 Saturday, January 14th. — Snowy and cold. There 
 was a ball at the Austrian Embassy last night. It is 
 a very difficult place to get to, and K. and I had to 
 be carried there in Sedan-chairs. Most people had 
 falls, but my men slid along carefully, and I arrived 
 safely. Every one was very smart, and it really was 
 a very pretty ball. The Persian Ambassadress looked 
 on from some concealed niche, while I danced with 
 Ambassadors who never had danced before, and who 
 are greatly delighted with themselves for beginning 
 now. • 
 
 Sunday, i$th. — In the afternoon, through snow and 
 cold wind, I had to go to Stamboul, as I had promised 
 to call on Princess Halim, while she was staying with 
 Princess Zeineb, whose harem on the Bosphorus I 
 visited. You will remember if I tell you she is an 
 Egyptian Princess, daughter of Mehemet Ali. 
 
 They certainly do live in an uncomfortable way. 
 The house is very large, but the passage to the harem 
 is very cold and draughty. 
 
 There was an open fireplace in the room, but all 
 the " females " in it were wearing loose fur jackets, 
 and looked very plain and shapeless. Most of them 
 have short hair, and they wear httle tarlatan turbans. 
 
 1 
 
i882] WINTER ENTERTAINMENTS 183 
 
 Two Syrian women were sitting on the floor making 
 the most unearthly sounds by way of singing, which 
 sounds I was constantly appealed to, to admire. K. and 
 I sat in seats of honour and smoked and drank coffee. 
 I get on very well with Princess Halim, and an 
 occasional remark was translated to the old lady. 
 Then one of the Syrian women stood up, and danced 
 before us ; that is to say, she waved her arms about 
 and shook her shoulders a little, and made a sound 
 like castanets with her fingers. 
 
 Sunday, 2gth. — It was a lovely day, so in the after- 
 noon fifteen of us went a walk to Stamboul. We 
 went up to the Hippodrome, and looked at the 
 Brazen Serpent, and visited the Museum, where the 
 dresses of the ancient Janissaries are. It sounds 
 grand, but anything more tumbledown than the 
 series of wooden figures with their old clothes hanging 
 on them, I never saw. On our way back we called 
 upon " Hadji Baba," the owner of a sweet-shop, and 
 tasted many things, and watched a yellow jelly 
 converted, by pulling and beating, into a lovely shiny 
 white bonbon. 
 
 Two men of war are in, the Cockatrice (Captain 
 Grenfell) and the Falcon (Captain Selby). These two 
 captains are going on a shooting expedition. 
 
 February 4th, — ^We went to look on at a Jewish 
 Ball of which I am Patroness. We sat in a box and 
 I was given a gigantic bouquet. " God save the 
 Queen " was sung when we arrived, and a copy of 
 Magna Charta was hung up in the box! 
 
 Monday, 6th. — ^There was the ball at the Persian 
 Embassy, at which I was to do the honours, the 
 mistress of the house being immured in her harem. 
 So I went early, unaccompanied (alas 1), by D., who 
 had a bad headache. 
 
 I went at half-past nine, and I stood at the door 
 till a quarter to eleven, shaking hands with every- 
 13 
 
i84 A FATAL ACCIDENT [CH. iv 
 
 body. The ball was a curious one in some ways. 
 There were crowds of Persians in their black fezes, of 
 Turks in their red ones, and of Turcomans in dressing- 
 gowns and white turbans. All these looked on at 
 the dancing Christians. There was a linen drugget 
 on the floor, which emitted a good deal of dust from 
 the soap with which it had been rubbed, so that there 
 was a depressing fog in the room. The buffet and 
 the supper were very well done, but the people did 
 behave so badly at the latter, it quite vexed me to 
 see the way they called for things, and tore at them 
 under their host's very nose. He had provided a 
 quantity of presents for the cotillon, but half of them 
 had been stolen by the time it began, and a great 
 many people who ought to have come to the ball 
 stayed away. They had this excuse, that he lives 
 a long way off, and that the roads were very slippery. 
 I am in hopes, however, that he will have thought the 
 ball a success. He has written to thank me for my 
 share of the labour, and has sent me two handsome 
 Persian cushions — baksheesh I 
 
 Tuesday, 14th. — Just as the last of my visitors was 
 going this afternoon, D. came in and told me of the 
 horrible accident to Captain Selby of the Falcon. 
 He and Captain Grenfell had gone on a shooting 
 expedition. The trouble began through a misunder- 
 standing. 
 
 It was the " breeding season," and at that time the 
 shepherds object to any intruders on their premises, 
 and train their fierce dogs to keep them off. The two 
 captains could neither speak to the shepherds nor 
 understand what they said, and they thought that 
 these men were setting their dogs at them. 
 
 Captain Selby put down his gun so that he might 
 not be tempted to fire, and though Captain Grenfell 
 put his to the man's head to frighten him, he did not 
 let it off. 
 
 A 
 
i882] DEATH OF CAPTAIN SELBY 185 
 
 While he was grappling with a second man who 
 came up, the first one hit Captain Selby over the 
 head with some weapon, and, although he was 
 actually able to walk after it, there seems to be little 
 hope of his recovery. The men bound him and all the 
 rest of the party, and it was only when the Consul 
 came up and explained who they were that they were 
 released. 
 
 The dragoman went off to the Sultan's Palace to 
 inform his Majesty, but though it was only eight 
 o'clock, the Sultan had gone to bed, and no one dared 
 to wake him, so the story was written out and left 
 by his bedside. The Vizier, however, sent word to 
 arrest all the villagers. 
 
 The Sultan sent his secretary at night to express 
 his regret at Captain Selby's accident, and also to 
 remark that people who do not understand the lan- 
 guage should not go out alone, which is quite true. 
 If he and the men had understood each other there 
 would have been no trouble. 
 
 Another sad event has been the very sudden death 
 of Mme Bartholeyns, the wife of the Belgian Minister. 
 Her husband is away, and I have begged her two 
 daughters to come here till his return. We have put 
 off our ball, which was to have been to-morrow, and 
 the Germans have postponed theirs. 
 
 In the afternoon we went a long walk on the rocks, 
 between the old wall and the new. The views were 
 lovely. 
 
 Tuesday, 21st. — ^We are in the midst of the saddest 
 things now. Captain Selby died last night, and his 
 wife comes to us on Thursday, a terrible thing for 
 her to arrive amongst strangers in her great sorrow. 
 
 Thursday, 22,rd. — Mrs. Selby was to have arrived 
 to-day, an hour or two before her husband's funeral, 
 but a telegram has come to say that she could not 
 cross the Danube, so can not arrive till Sunday. 
 
i86 ARRIVAL OF MRS. SELBY [ch. iv 
 
 She is at some wretched hotel by the way, and there 
 she has learnt her misfortune. We have telegraphed 
 to say all is ready here for her, but she may perhaps 
 return straight to England unless she comes on to 
 see the grave and to talk to Captain Grenfell, who can 
 tell her all the details of this sad event. 
 
 D . went with all the Embassy to the funeral at one 
 o'clock, and they did not get back till seven. The 
 Sultan sent representatives, as did the other Embassies, 
 and D. was the chief mourner. It was a very long 
 and very cold afternoon for them all. 
 
 D. had to go and dine at the Persian Embassy to 
 meet the German Mission ; these official things wait 
 for nothing, and it has been very unfortunate that 
 these people should have been here this week. We 
 had already put off our entertainment to them twice, 
 and now have to have it the very day Mrs. Selby 
 arrives. It is most disagreeable; but, of course, she 
 won't know anything about it, and it can't be helped. 
 
 We heard by telegram of the death of our great 
 friend, Count Schouvaloff, in Petrograd. 
 
 Saturday, 2$th. — Now I must turn to brighter 
 things. Mr. Nicolson and my sister are engaged to 
 be married, and I am very happy about it. 
 
 Sunday, 26th. — ^There is a great mixture of joy and 
 sorrow in this house to-day ; the radiant young 
 couple, and the arrival of Mrs. Selby and Captain 
 Selby's sister. Up to the last ten days we seemed 
 to have nothing but brightness and pleasure here, 
 but since then there has been much sorrow. I was 
 with Mrs. Selby for some time after her arrival, and 
 then I took my young people a lovely walk to the 
 old walls. We crossed the Golden Horn in boats, 
 and visited an old mosque which has beautiful mosaics 
 in it. '^1 
 
 I like Mrs. and Miss Selby so much; they do not 
 shut themselves up in their grief, and so one can be _ 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
i882] A BALL 187 
 
 some comfort to them ; they Uke to see those who 
 knew Captain Selby, and take interest in everything 
 that is going on here. They have been to the 
 Falcon to see his ship and to get his things. A sad 
 day for her. They leave us early in March. 
 
 It has been decided that Katie is to be married here, 
 and that ten girls are to be bridesmaids. They are of 
 every nationality. No one will, Lam sure, ever have 
 had such a polyglot international wedding before. 
 i| Thursday y March i6th (Mi-careme). — The dance that 
 I we had put off, took place to-day, so in the morning 
 I we made all the final arrangements for it. Our ball- 
 ;' room looked lovely, with the stage at one end . The 
 footlights were converted into a bank of flowers. 
 The musicians were on the stage, twelve instruments. 
 The fireplace was filled with flowers, and the chimney- 
 piece covered with them. Supper was laid for a 
 hundred and sixty-seven on small round tables in 
 the dining-room and billiard-room, and we had 
 refreshments elsewhere. 
 
 There is one enormous chandelier in the ball-room, 
 and we had rows of candles over the doors and 
 windows. The furniture is yellow, and the stage 
 curtain (looped up) is blue, with a yellow fringe. The 
 floor was very good, and we began dancing soon after 
 ten, and danced twelve dances before supper. 
 
 After supper we had a cotillion, and it was pro- 
 nounced a great success. They generally have long, 
 complicated figures here, and long pauses, and we had 
 only those that go easily and are lively, and we never 
 kept one on too long. 
 
 We had heaps of congratulations to-day about K.'s 
 engagement, and the first wedding present arrived. 
 Quotation from a letter just received : 
 
 " Your ball was an enormous success. It is not a 
 compliment to say it was the prettiest one ever seen 
 
i88 THE SACRED MOSQUE [ch. iv 
 
 in Pera, but it was one of the prettiest ever seen 
 anywhere, I am sure. ... I heard lots of people who 
 have hitherto disliked cotillion say, that, for once, 
 they had thoroughly enjoyed one." 
 
 Sunday, igth. — ^We went to see the Memorial Church 
 — a memorial to the soldiers killed in the Crimea. 
 
 It is a very pretty church, and I felt as if I had not 
 been in a real one for months, our Embassy chapel 
 being more like a room than a church. 
 
 In the afternoon we went a walk behind the walls 
 on the shore, but so much rubbish has been thrown 
 over the walls that it was disagreeable. 
 
 Sunday, 26th. — ^We had the American Minister * and 
 his wife to dine, and some other people. They were 
 so late that we had to go in without them, and she 
 told me afterwards that she was in a " cold sweat," 
 and certainly she looked as pale as a ghost when she 
 did arrive. She uses such funny expressions. Talk- 
 ing of the dust here, she said, " I am sure I have 
 swallowed enough to make a new Adam." 
 
 Wednesday , 2gth. — We went to Therapia in the 
 Antelope. Our steering chain snapped on the way. 
 This \yas soon remedied, and happily in the interval 
 we did not drift into anything. Arrived at Therapia, 
 our own buoy got into our paddle-wheel, but we had 
 luncheon while it was being extricated, and then 
 landed. Unfortunately, instead of its being a lovely 
 summer day like yesterday, it was extremely cold, 
 and our " Summer Palace " did not look inviting 
 even for a honeymoon, which it is soon to be used for. 
 
 Sunday, i6th. — ^We started in carriages and then 
 got into caiques and rowed down the Golden Horn, 
 Constantinople looking too lovely 1 We landed at 
 Eyoub, and actually made our way into the Court of 
 the Sacred Mosque ; we should not have gone there, 
 
 * Mr. Lew Wallace, author of Ben-Hur. 
 
 I 
 
4 
 
i882] A FORTUNE TELLER i8g 
 
 but we were innocent of the fact, and before we were 
 signalled off that Holy Ground, had time to admire 
 that most curious place, with its walls covered with 
 fantastic, curious tiles, and the two beautiful trees 
 growing in its centre. Then we walked up the hill 
 through a Turkish cemetery, untidy as they always 
 are, but with much brilHant colour on the tomb- 
 stones, till we arrived at the cottage of a fortune- 
 teller I 
 
 We were admitted, and passed into a yard, where 
 the lady — a woman with a nice face and lovely eyes, 
 seated herself by a well, and made the person whose 
 fate was to be read in its waters sit opposite her. 
 
 " What is your name ? " said she. " Katherine." 
 " Katina," said the woman, and then she waved her 
 hand about, described a circle over the well, bent her 
 head in her hands, and began an incantation, in 
 which the names of " Allah " and of " Katina " 
 were mixed. 
 
 At last she spoke, and, as K.'s was considered a 
 test case, we listened with anxiety. She told her 
 she was engaged, which was a great success, but 
 the details which followed about a bearded man 
 coming over the sea were less satisfactory. I regret 
 to tell you, also, that in seven days, seven weeks, or 
 seven ^''ears, a man with a hat on is coming (also 
 over the sea), to disturb my peace or D.'s. I have 
 also had an illness, which may recur, and I am advised 
 to get a Mollah, (a green turbaned Turk) to come 
 and read over me when it returns. 
 
 On the whole we found the lady had little imagina- 
 tion, and was a poor witch. 
 
 Walking down-hill, the view of Constantinople, 
 the Golden Horn, and the snow-capped Olympus, 
 was lovely, and we passed through most picturesque 
 places, and saw some lovely bright feridges with 
 Turkish ladies in them ; and, as we passed, Victoria 
 
igo A WEDDING [ch. iv 
 
 confided to me this profound observation, " I see 
 that all the pretty Turkish ladies have very thin 
 yashmaks, and all the ugly ones have them thick." 
 
 We were a party of eighteen children, governesses, 
 and Embassy, and we sat on the edge of the water, 
 and drank coffee and ate oranges. 
 
 Thursday, April 20th. — My sister was married to- 
 day. A crimson carpet was laid across the garden to 
 the church. In front of the wedding party walked a 
 splendid porter in uniform, cocked hat, and mace, 
 then four cavasses in scarlet, after them the ten " inter- 
 national " bridesmaids, followed by D. and the bride. 
 
 My brother Fred had come to us for the wedding, 
 and he and I got into our places as soon as we had 
 seen the procession pass. On our return we found 
 Munir Pasha waiting with a gift the Sultan had sent 
 Katie. We had a band in the house and another in 
 the garden, and a buffet with a big cake in the large 
 Central Hall. After this had been cut in the orthodox 
 way, the bride and bridegroom drove off to Therapia, 
 and we had a dance for the bridesmaids in the evening. 
 
 Saturday, 22nd. — We went in the launch up to the 
 Seven Towers, passing all along the walls, and 
 having lovely views of the picturesque Towers, and 
 of the town behind them. 
 
 We had sent on lunch, and all our riding-horses, 
 so we first found a nice warm spot in a tea garden, 
 where a fine but rickety table was put up and where 
 we ate, and enjoyed ourselves for some time. Then 
 an Armenian school for orphan boys turned out and 
 sang songs, astonishing us by performing an English 
 one, in which the " Chimpanzee and the Kangaroo " 
 figured, and ending up by a beautifully pronounced, 
 loyal one about our Queen. To reward them, we 
 picked up the fragments of our feast, and by dint 
 of ingenuity, our five apples, four oranges, a small 
 cake, and a bit of wedding-cake was made to go some 
 
i882] THE HOWLING DERVISHES 191 
 
 way round them. Then we rode home by the walls ; 
 splendid ruins they are, but in another week they 
 will be prettier, as the green which covers them is 
 scarcely out yet. It was a charming ride ; nearly all 
 the Embassy came with us, and we got home just in 
 time for our cup of five-o'clock tea. 
 
 Thursday, 2'jth. — ^We determined to make a great 
 effort to show my brother some sights, so we lunched 
 early, and then started off in the launch, accom- 
 panied by most of the Embassy, to see the Howling 
 Dervishes. 
 
 As usual, we were told, on arriving at their haunts, 
 that we had an hour to wait, so we strolled up to 
 a Turkish cafe, sat in an arbour and drank coffee. 
 Fred, Mr. Hardinge, and Mr. Clarke tried to smoke 
 narghiles, and said they felt very giddy after it. 
 
 Then an old gentleman, who was enjoying his, 
 tucked up on a bench, produced from his breast a 
 book, and told us he was a fortune-teller ; so, with 
 some difficulty, " Hariot " was written out in Turkish, 
 and under it " Katrina," for my mother's name, 
 and the old gentleman did some complicated sum over 
 these names, and found my star, and told me I was 
 married to a gentleman with dark hair, with a little 
 white about it, that my father was dead, and that, 
 forty years from the time of his death, I should get a 
 great fortune. 
 
 The Dervishes were in great force. There were a 
 number of them, and a great many people praying 
 in the centre of the place. They got very hot and 
 excited, and made horrible noises, and appeared 
 almost at death's door, until the chant changed, and 
 they calmed down at once, and were quite well again. 
 
 At the end, the Chief Dervish, whom I may call 
 the High-priest, blessed some garments which were 
 sent to him for the purpose, and tied a knot in the 
 sleeve of each to show he had done it ; and then he 
 
192 SCUTARI [CH. IV 
 
 proceeded to cure the sick — men, children, and babies — 
 by walking on them. There was a stiff-legged soldier 
 who got down with difficulty to be trodden on, and 
 who arose apparently as stiff as ever. Then a little 
 avenue of boys and girls was formed, they lay flat in 
 a row, and the holy man walked up and down this 
 human path twice, and then the smallest babies were 
 flattened out and trodden upon, and all the time 
 the row of very hot Dervishes went on groaning and 
 throwing themselves about. 
 
 The service lasted fully an hour and a half, and 
 it was five before we got to the launch again, and 
 went on to the cemetery at Scutari — such a lovely 
 one it is ! Some of the graves are beautifully kept — 
 pretty shrubs and flowers everywhere. 
 
 The Crimean graves look the least well, because 
 they are simply green mounds, with one monument 
 for the whole of them, and the other two graves, 
 which we were specially interested in seeing, though 
 the newest, looked in reality the least cared for, as 
 the grass had not yet grown over them, and they have 
 no headstones, — I mean Captain Selby's and Madame 
 Bartholeyn's. 
 
 Friday, zsth. — ^We had a delightful picnic to-day, 
 given by the Persian Ambassador. He came for 
 us at ten in the morning, himself got up in a velvet 
 jacket, with a waist (he is enormous), knickerbockers, 
 and boots. Mrs. Hobart told him he looked like a 
 brigand, all but the hat and feathers. 
 
 The party consisted of twenty-four persons on 
 horseback, quite a cavalcade, a launch full of chil- 
 dren, and some carriage loads of ladies. The day 
 was lovely, and we had a beautiful ride of about 
 twelve miles to the Ambassador's country place. 
 There we had an excellent lunch, one dish being a 
 lamb roasted whole and stuffed with currants, rice, 
 nuts, etc. Then we wandered about the garden 
 
i882] ATHENS 193 
 
 and went up to a kiosk on the hill, where we had tea. 
 The room was an odd-shaped one, and there were two 
 curious things in it, one an echo, and the other a 
 sort of whispering-gallery effect. 
 
 Sometimes you thought you heard people who 
 were the other side of the room, speaking close to your 
 ear, and from certain parts of the room you could 
 hear every word that was said at the other side of it, 
 while you could catch nothing your nearer neigh- 
 bours were talking of. 
 
 We rode home by the " Sweet Waters," and 
 reached the Embassy at seven, all the twenty-four 
 horses having behaved with great propriety, and no 
 accidents having happened to any one. We all 
 enjoyed the day extremely. 
 
 Wednesday, May ■^rd. — I was busy all the morning 
 making arrangements for our trip to Athens. 
 
 On our way to our own ship, the Arva, we called 
 at the Wolvertons' yacht ; they have just arrived, 
 and have two very pretty ladies on board. 
 
 Our ship is very large, having been on the China 
 station. The captain is a most amusing Frenchman, 
 and, having Fred and Mr. Bland with us, we enjoy 
 our voyage much. 
 
 Friday, $th. — ^Was woke by hearing Fred's voice. 
 The ship had stopped, and we were in the Piraeus, and 
 Fred was energetically starting at five in the morning 
 to go up and see the Acropolis. Mr. Bland went with 
 him, and D. and I remained on board till their 
 return, when they left for home. 
 
 It is the king's birthday, and a fete-day here, so 
 after a little breakfast, with honey from Hymettus, 
 at it, D. and I walked across the square which is in 
 front of the hotel and watched the royal procession 
 going to the church. 
 
 Then we wrote our names down at the Palace, a 
 large, ugly building at one side of the square, facing 
 
194 ATHENS [ch. iv 
 
 the Acropolis. Behind, it has a lovely garden, 
 going off into the hills, and this is what makes the 
 view from our little balcony here so pretty, the wild 
 hills mixed up with the town, and the picturesque 
 ruins of the Acropolis behind the modern houses. We 
 went to the Legation at two, and looked at Mr. Ford's * 
 house and his drawings, collections of china, etc., 
 and were introduced to his son, " Johnny." 
 
 Mr. Ford, Mr. Greville, D. and I and " Johnny," 
 went up to the Acropolis, and, as Mr. Ford knows all 
 about it, he was the best guide we could possibly 
 have had. 
 
 We only got back late, the day had been warm, 
 and we had walked a great deal, so I felt very little 
 inclined to dress for a ball at the Palace. However, 
 it had to be done, and we entered the Diplomatic- 
 pen at nine o clock. How grateful I felt to have no 
 Court at Constantinople, when I found myself in my 
 exact right place, standing waiting for the King and 
 Queen, and, as time went on, changing from one foot 
 to another in hopes of finding a little rest that way. 
 
 Well, we stood and stood, and at last the King and 
 Queen came in, followed by an old friend in the shape 
 of a tall young Russian Grand Duke, and they went 
 slowly, slowly down one side of us, and slowly, 
 slowly up the other. 
 
 The Queen is very nice-looking, is very simple and 
 charming, and every one likes her. She wore pink 
 tulle over satin, dotted about with violets. The King, 
 who is the brother of our Princess, is most civil and 
 kind. 
 
 D. and I danced a quadrille with the King and 
 Queen. The rooms are very fine, but the heat was 
 tremendous, and I confess that by four in the morn- 
 ing I was completely done up. There were four 
 quadrilles, and three waltzes. Then supper (for us 
 1 Afterwards Ambassador at Rome. 
 
i882] ELEUSIS 195 
 
 in a private room with the Royalties, and what a 
 mercy to sit down !), and then a cotiUion. I was too 
 tired to think of dancing anything but the quadrilles, 
 and only waited to see the cotillion begin. I was 
 curious to see the ball, and am glad to have been at it. 
 
 Saturday, 6th. — Got up late, and stayed very 
 quietly at home till five, when I went a round of visits 
 — knocked off all my new acquaintances with cards, 
 and then dressed for a dinner at our Legation, where 
 Mr. Ford asked me to do the honours. I sat between 
 the Prime Minister M. Tricoupi, and the Speaker of 
 the House. 
 
 Sunday, yth. — ^We had a delightful day in the 
 country. Mr. Ford came to fetch us at nine, and we 
 drove with him and Mr. Greville to Eleusis, looking 
 at a pretty old church on the way. The scenery was 
 beautiful, and the weather perfect. When we reached 
 the place we walked about, and saw the ruins that 
 remain of the Temple to Ceres, and then we lunched 
 out of doors, and were just going to drive back when 
 we heard the peasants were going to dance ; so I 
 sat down in a little sort of chapel, which the man said 
 had something to do with the Prophet Zechariah, and 
 read letters from home which came just as I was going 
 out. 
 
 Then we went about a little among the peasant 
 women. They were so polite, getting me a chair, 
 picking me flowers, and giving me raw beans to eat. 
 
 Their costume is most picturesque, and the smart 
 ones were lovely. They wore plain white skirts 
 touching the ground, rather long sleeveless jackets, 
 made of a white woollen material, and trimmed in a 
 particular pattern, with very wide black worsted 
 braid ; they were quite open in front, and coloured 
 waistcoats and coloured sleeves were worn with 
 them ; sometimes the whole underdress was white, 
 and there was a great breast-plate of coins and neck- 
 
196 DANCING AT ELEUSIS [ch. iv 
 
 laces, and long chains fastened to the jacket, and 
 enormous buckles at the waist. They all had yellow 
 handkerchiefs tied round their heads. Many of their 
 faces were pretty. They had beautiful eyes, and 
 often very charming expressions. They were long 
 collecting, and there seemed to be great doubt as to 
 where the ball-room should be, but at last they fixed 
 upon the old temple, and we followed them there. 
 
 The old stones and broken marble columns were 
 covered with spectators — old women, and funny little 
 children — ^while about twenty of the girls danced at a 
 time. They took hands across each other — that is, they 
 gave the right hand to their left-hand neighbour, and 
 the left to the right, which made a very close chain — 
 and then, singing a slow and melancholy wail, they 
 stepped backwards and forwards and round. 
 
 We were fortunate in seeing this curious sight, and 
 the ruins looked all the more picturesque for the 
 costumed group that filled them. 
 
 But what an uncivilised ball — no music, and no men 1 
 
 The men we had seen before looked very smart too 
 — ^with long black gaiters, short white petticoats, 
 sleeveless short jackets and red caps. One had 
 approached us at lunch, and, though himself a little 
 the worse for wine, he offered us some, with a most 
 courtly grace. It was the wine of the country, and 
 nastier than any medicine, but I did the civil thing 
 and drank it down. 
 
 Monday, Sth. — ^We were ready at seven in the 
 morning, when Johnny Ford and Mr. Greville came 
 to fetch us, and we started in a carriage for Mount 
 Pentelicus. The flowers in the hedges, and especially 
 the poppies, are beautiful now, and the fresh morning 
 air was very pleasant. We passed through the birth- 
 place of Pericles, '^nd arrived in two hours at a 
 monastery, where we left the carriage, and took to 
 mules. On them we rode another two hours, up, up. 
 
 i 
 
 J 
 
i882] MOUNT PENTELICUS 197 
 
 up the mountain. Half-way we got off to look into 
 a chilly cave, and to admire enormous cliffs of marble 
 — and all the way, we kept occasionally looking back 
 upon the splendid view beneath us. 
 
 The hill is 3,400 feet high, and when we reached 
 the top we could see the country in every direction, 
 and on a clear day could, I believe, have seen the 
 whole of Greece. Directly under us lay the plains of 
 Marathon. The bay is very small, and so regular 
 in shape that one can scarcely believe its banks are 
 not artificial. The sea was beautifully blue, and the 
 islands and mountains rising out of it made quite 
 an ideal landscape. We sat and looked for some time, 
 and then began our descent. I sat sideways on a 
 country saddle with no pommels or other conveniences, 
 and I found that, at some of the steep places, I must 
 abandon my parasol, and hold on with both hands to 
 the saddle. 
 
 The mules were wonderfully sure-footed, and walked 
 safely down the most fearfully dangerous-looking 
 ground ; they were comfortable enough as long as 
 they walked, but when they trotted, or when they 
 hopped down some step with both fore-legs together, 
 they shook their rider a little. 
 
 Mr. Ford met us at the monastery, and we had 
 lunch under the trees, and then drove home. 
 
 I had an hour to recover from the exertions of the 
 day before dressing to dine at the Palace. 
 
 It was a small party — ^with the household making 
 sixteen. I sat by the King, and found him extremely 
 nice and pleasant. He talked all the time — just like 
 any other man I I saw his likeness to our Princess, 
 but he screws up his eyes and fails in that feature. 
 
 D. sat by the Queen. After dinner we all went into 
 a room and stood for the rest of the evening, the King, 
 Queen, and Grand Duke speaking to every one in 
 turn. Both going in and coming out we walked alone, 
 
198 SIGHT SEEING [ch. iv 
 
 the Queen, then myself, and the other ladies, and 
 then the King and the gentlemen. 
 
 The roses here are in profusion and lovely, some 
 of the biggest I have ever seen. I wore some in my 
 dress, and they were much admired ; I believe they 
 never thought of wearing real flowers before. 
 
 Tuesday, gth. — I stayed at home to write letters in 
 the morning, while D. visited some museums. In the 
 afternoon we went by train to Phalerum, a bathing- 
 place near Athens, and in the evening we dined with 
 the Russian Minister. He is a nice old man, who came 
 to Quebec while we were there, and who seems to 
 have a lively remembrance of Gwen, who laughed at 
 his English. 
 
 I took a little walk in the King's garden. He opens 
 it to the public every afternoon. It is a lovely garden, 
 and is the sweetest-smelling one I ever walked through. 
 There are roses climbing up the trees, and masses of 
 all sorts of flowers. 
 
 The Queen lost a child last year, and her little bed 
 remains in its place in the nursery, with wreaths laid 
 upon it. Blackwell was much struck with the extreme 
 simplicity of the rooms. 
 
 Wednesday, loth. — We did a round of sight-seeing 
 with Mr. Ford in the afternoon. The Temple of 
 Theseus, the Pnyx, the Stadium, the Temple of the 
 Winds, and, to wind up with, the " House of Com- 
 mons." The members were sitting, so we looked 
 and listened for a few moments. The Speaker faces 
 the seats, which are arranged in a semicircle, the 
 Government and Opposition being divided by a 
 narrow path up the middle. The orator has a little 
 pulpit in front of the Speaker, There are large 
 boxes all round the House, and they were crowded 
 with people, soldiers, children, etc. 
 
 The day was not hot, and there was a pleasant 
 breeze, so we saw everything very comfortably. 
 
i882] INVITATION TO THE PALACE 199 
 
 I don't attempt to describe the sights to you — ^it 
 would be an endless task, and you would find it very 
 dull reading. 
 
 Thursday, nth. — I called upon Madame Schlie- 
 mann, whose husband is away digging at Troy. She 
 lives in a marble palace, and is an interesting woman, 
 fine eyes, and pleasant manner. 
 
 She speaks English very well, but one bit of our 
 conversation amused me afterwards when I found 
 out what she meant to say. 
 
 She knew I had been to Eieusis, and said," Did you 
 go by the Secret Way? " I looked a little blank, and 
 then said, "We went by the high road." "Yes," 
 said she, ** that is the Secret Way." 
 
 I found she meant Sacred. 
 
 There were private theatricals at the Palace in the 
 evening. First a Greek piece, then a little French 
 piece, very well done, called L'Etre de St. Martin, 
 and then, Le Serment d'Horace, in which there was 
 a smiling, namby-pamby lady, whom I could have 
 shaken. 
 
 Our Princes arrived in the morning, but Prince 
 George ^ had a feverish attack, and could not come 
 ashore. 
 
 The King was very nice to me, gave me supper, 
 and talked a great deal. I said good-bye to both 
 King and Queen, thanking them for their kindness 
 to us ; but I see they can't part with us, for — 
 
 Friday, 12th — this morning the Grand Marechal 
 has come to ask us to dine with the King and Queen 
 quite quietly, " without dressing." 
 
 In the meantime D. and I went to see the Academy, 
 which is a lovely new building, but which unfortu- 
 nately is rather crushed by its surroundings ; such a 
 beautiful thing should have stood alone. It is white 
 marble, with a great deal of gilding and carving out- 
 
 * King George V. 
 14 
 
20O DINNER AT THE PALACE [ch. IV 
 
 side, and the effect of the big room inside, which is 
 not quite finished, will be splendid. There are very 
 large frescoes on the walls, and the marble pillars, 
 and the general colour of the room is a very brilliant 
 red (painted), with the carved part of the marble 
 standing out in white upon the red ground. 
 
 We went on to Schliemann's Museum, and saw 
 things he has found. There is a model of a tomb just 
 as he saw it, with the skeleton warrior lying there, 
 his rusty sword by his side, and gold trinkets, little 
 cups, etc. at his head. 
 
 Our dinner at the Palace was delightful. There 
 was not even a maid of honour present. The King 
 met us at the door of his apartments, and took us 
 in to the Queen, who looked lovely in a square black 
 dress and diamond and ruby ornaments. Then all 
 the five children came in, and we went into the next 
 room without taking arms. It was a small room, 
 and, as there were only two ladies, I sat opposite 
 the Queen, between the King and Prince Albert 
 Victor, — while she had D. and her brother the 
 Grand Duke Constantine, on either side of her, the 
 two boys, her sons, at the ends of the table, and the 
 youngest boy and two girls sitting in the room, and 
 much taken up with their cousin (Prince Albert 
 Victor), behind whose chair they often came and 
 stood to ask him questions. The Queen says he is 
 so good to the children, and has the smallest on his 
 knee all day. Her boys are very big, and the eldest* is 
 said to be very clever. We had a very merry dinner, 
 and the servants only appeared when they were rung 
 for. Two dogs, one a very big one, stayed in the room. 
 After dinner, we went next door and sat down for 
 quite a long talk ; then the Queen asked me if I 
 would like to see the next room, and when I had 
 looked at all the things there we said good-bye and 
 
 ^ Present King of Greece. 
 
i882] RETURN TO CONSTANTINOPLE 201 
 
 left. I can't say how nice they were, nor how 
 charming and pretty the Queen is. D. and I went on 
 to Mr. Ford's, who had asked some people to meet 
 us at dinner. He and Mr. Greville have been most 
 kind to us here. 
 
 Saturday, iT^th. — We had to be down at our ship 
 by seven, and, as it is an hour's drive to the Pirseus, 
 we were up early. Mr. Greville appeared at six, 
 and went with us, and when we got down there after 
 making this great effort we found that, owing to 
 the bad weather, the steamer had only just arrived, 
 and would not start for three hours ! 
 
 So D. went off to the Bacchante, and saw Prince 
 George.* He is better, and will be allowed to go 
 ashore. D. also called on the French Admiral, who, 
 to his surprise, saluted him, and afterwards came 
 and called on me. 
 
 We did not expect to find the Italian steamer as 
 comfortable as the French, but in reality we had 
 much better accommodation and very good food. 
 This first day I did not require much ! 
 
 RETURN TO CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 Sunday, 14th. — ^We had a lovely warm day on 
 board, and should have landed at midnight, but 
 unfortunately our launch, which was on the look-out, 
 missed us, and did not discover us till 4 a.m. How- 
 ever, we got to Therapia at five, and, by going to 
 bed for a few hours, managed to feel as if we had 
 arrived at night. 
 
 Monday, i^th. — In the afternoon we sat in the 
 garden. Mr. and Mrs. Goschen, Mrs. Wyndham 
 with Miss Kennedy, Mr. Oliphant (who is busy 
 trying to send the Jews back to Jerusalem), Lord 
 and Lady Wolverton, and Madame Marinitch, Prince 
 
 ^ King George V. 
 
 L. 
 
202 A TURKISH WEDDING [ch. iv 
 
 Victor Bariatinski, and Captain Grenfell all came. ^ 
 The children were playing about with eleven kittens i| 
 (which were perpetually on the point of being trodden 
 on), two sheep, and three dogs. I am devoutly in 
 hopes that some mysterious Providence will interfere 
 with the kittens. 
 
 It was delightful under the trees. Lord Wolverton, 
 his niece, Miss Greathed, and Admiral Wellesley 
 dined with us, and to meet them we had the Wynd- 
 hams, Miss Kennedy, Sir Richard Temple (of Indian 
 celebrity), and Mr. Sartoris. 
 
 Tuesday, i6th. — A very busy morning for me, and 
 a very bad day for the Chancery, and the Ambassador 
 — a telegram that took seven hours and a half to 
 decipher, and a perpetual rushing to and fro of 
 Ambassadors and Charges d 'Affaires. 
 
 The Ohphants, Goschens, Mr. Wallace, and Mr. 
 Hardinge dined with us. Mrs. Oliphant was very 
 interesting, telling us how she earned her own living 
 for three years in America, first by needlework and 
 then by teaching. 
 
 Thursday, 2$th. — I have to tell you about a Turkish 
 wedding I have been to. I took all the children, 
 and Miss S., Mrs. Wyndham, and her children, Mrs. 
 Goschen and two female interpreters. We drove in 
 three carriages, starting at nine o'clock, and reached 
 our destination far away in Stamboul, at the ap- 
 pointed hour, ten. We soon found, however, that 
 a couple of hours later than that for which you 
 are invited, is about the time one is expected to 
 arrive, but on the whole we were not sorry to be so 
 early, as we saw the people comfortably before the 
 crush. 
 
 We drove into a covered way, on each side of 
 which there was a door leading into the house. Half- 
 way upstairs we were met by the hideous black men 
 who regulate the affairs of a harem. At the top of 
 
i882] A TURKISH WEDDING 203 
 
 the staircase there were numbers of women clad in 
 many-coloured, shapeless garments. The first one 
 attempted to sprinkle me with scent, which gave me 
 a fearful shock (on account of my best gown) ; but 
 happily the shower did not reach me, and I escaped 
 without a spot. 
 
 We were ushered into a small sitting-room ; all 
 the rooms in the house were very small, and all had 
 divans round the walls, and little other furniture. 
 There we sat, and brilliant yellow or purple females 
 handed us, first cigarettes, then jam, of which we ate 
 a spoonful in the orthodox way, taking a sip of water 
 after it, then a cup of coffee. 
 
 While we were enjoying ourselves thus, and 
 wondering whether this sort of thing would go on 
 for ever, we were well amused by looking at the 
 figures round us. One old woman (and an old 
 Turkish woman is an unlovely object) came and 
 looked at us, and said we were all charming — she 
 did not know which of us was the most so — ^while 
 we wondered whether she was a relation or a servant 
 of the family. She wore a skirt and jacket of some 
 hard woollen stuff in very large stripes of yellow and 
 magenta, which (after the manner of her kind), she 
 lifted well off the ground as she trotted about, showing 
 much white cotton stocking. Her hair (another 
 fashion amongst the old ladies) was cut short, reach- 
 ing straight to the ears, and was dyed red, while a 
 mysterious tight little plait coming from you can't 
 tell where was brought up from the back, and was 
 fastened to a bit of stuff tied round the head, a very 
 ghost of a turban. Her eyes were very red, and 
 altogether she was very unlike a guest at a grand 
 wedding ! 
 
 The woman who brought in the coffee was a stout 
 female, in lilac (also of a bed-gown pattern as to 
 fit) ; she stood well back upon her legs, her tray 
 
204 A TURKISH WEDDING [ch. iv 
 
 resting against her capacious form, a grand em- 
 broidered velvet and gold cloth over her shoulder, 
 her hair short, with a wisp round her head too. There 
 were also many women running about covered up in 
 sheets, but I never made out why they were so 
 attired or what they were doing. 
 
 We had been looking about us for some time, when 
 it was suggested that we should go and see some of 
 the preparations that were being made, — so we passed 
 through the central room at the top of the stairs, 
 where guests were assembling, and saw many curious 
 specimens of womenkind. Any one who is invited 
 to a Turkish wedding brings her whole establishment 
 with her, so the guests are not all ladies, and amongst 
 the elderly it is very difficult indeed to guess which 
 are servants and which are mistresses. 
 
 Besides these invited guests, the house is open to 
 all who choose to enter, and even the streets are full 
 of veiled forms, who at some time during the day 
 will come and have a look at the bride. 
 
 When we made our move we were first shown the 
 room where the bride would sit to be looked at, and 
 a large throne prepared for her ; and then we were 
 taken -to the " Nuptial Chamber." You will excuse 
 my describing it to you, for it was very amusing! 
 The room was small, and in it there was — a washing- 
 stand, devoid of jugs and basins, but with two bed- 
 room candlesticks and a few cosmetics on it, and 
 in front of it, festooned on to a horse, two gold and 
 silver embroidered towels. Next came the bed — a 
 squat four-poster, covered in at the top, and curtained 
 with lovely cream-coloured satin, dotted all over 
 with beads — really very beautiful. There were two 
 counterpanes in rich stuffs and grand embroideries, 
 the pillows were all embroidered in gold (comfort- 
 able !), and there were muslin embroidered covers 
 thrown over them as well, while more cushions of 
 
i882] A TURKISH WEDDING 205 
 
 various degrees of splendour were disposed along 
 the wall side of the bed. 
 
 There was just room to pass between this couch, 
 and a chest of drawers, on which were laid out the 
 bride's " robe de nuit " (I give you the word as told 
 me, in case of any mistake). It was clear book 
 muslin, beautifully embroidered in white silk. 
 
 Then there was the bridegroom's- dressing-gown — 
 pale blue plush and silver — and then a little parcel of 
 his clothes, presented by the bride ; these he wears 
 the day after his marriage. There were his little 
 shirt, and his little tie, his waistc6at, studs, cigarette 
 case, pocket-handkerchiefs, and other under-gar- 
 ments — she does not seem to provide him with 
 cloth clothes. Then came a dress-stand, with the 
 bride's dress for the next day set out upon it, a mauve 
 silk. 
 
 Having seen these sights, we wandered back again 
 through more little rooms, and made acquaintance 
 with a very pleasing young Turkish lady, dressed in 
 a white silk, with immense train, and beautiful gold 
 spangled trimming ; with another of a handsome 
 barmaid type, golden hair, much rouge, a pink-and- 
 gold embroidered gown, a fine set of emeralds and 
 diamonds, and one enormous diamond worn outside 
 her glove. They could not speak to us, but we said 
 a little through an interpreter, and we looked at 
 their jewels, and admired their gowns — and the pink 
 one said she had much sympathy for me, and regretted 
 we could not converse, and she sat by me a good 
 deal, and we nodded and smiled occasionally. 
 
 I also made friends with a clever-looking old lady, 
 who had seen me at Princess Zeineb's ; she wore a 
 quilted jacket, but had not cut her hair short, and 
 looked better in consequence. 
 
 Then, for a change, we were taken upstairs, and we 
 saw the lady who did the honours. She is aunt of 
 
2g6 a TURKISH WEDDING [ch. iv 
 
 the bride, and, the mother being delicate, she under- 
 took this very hard work. She was a most interesting- 
 looking woman, and would anywhere have looked 
 distinguished. Her hair was a good golden (not the 
 fearful dyed colour they use so much). Of course 
 her face was painted white, but it had much character 
 and expression. Her figure was good, though even 
 she, when she changed her gown, and got into a Euro- 
 pean dress, burst a few buttons during the enter- 
 tainment. 
 
 When upstairs, the unhappy idea seized them of 
 getting a man to amuse us ! as if we hadn't plenty 
 at home, and weren't much more amused with the 
 women ! 
 
 He was the husband of the " pink one," and had 
 been two years in Vienna, so he spoke French well ; 
 but in order to admit him (he was the uncle of the 
 bride), all the ladies not related to him had to retire. 
 The only interesting thing in his advent was, the 
 opportunity of seeing the way he was greeted by his 
 female relations, and the shyness he felt at being so 
 greeted before us. They literally " kissed the hem 
 of his garment," while others were not obliged to 
 go lower than his hand, which he very impatiently 
 pulled away. The greetings between women seem to 
 vary from kissing the edge of the gown, or a slight 
 inclination touching the breast and forehead at the 
 same time ; this last is a very pretty salutation, and 
 takes place between equals. We soon got rather 
 tired of our man, and most politely suggested to 
 him, " that we hoped he would not remain on our 
 account," but he " felt honoured, and had nothing 
 whatever to do," so this failed, and I must now con- 
 fess that we all, one by one, left him and went 
 downstairs, where things were becoming ** fast and 
 furious." 
 
 The halls were crowded with people, and it was 
 
i882] A TURKISH WEDDING 207 
 
 most amusing to stand in the crowd and watch. 
 One black woman began to sing — ^in street fashion — 
 and caused some laughter, and ladies stood upon 
 divans so as to see the bride when she appeared, and 
 there was a good deal of noise and chatter going on. 
 Some friendly person was always seizing me by the 
 arm or hand, and leading me off somewhere, and now 
 I was dragged into a small room, and seated there 
 to await the bride. 
 
 She soon appeared. She was not bad-looking, but 
 some of the details of her costume were trying. She 
 wore a very handsome, long, salmon-coloured dress, 
 — on her head, two small diadems, one behind the 
 other, and very long tulle veils edged with silver lace, 
 and with streamers of gold tinsel hanging on each 
 side bits of which she gave, after the marriage, to the 
 unmarried women. Her hair was yellow, her face 
 painted pale, and on her forehead, cheeks, and chin 
 were gummed four enormous diamonds in gold 
 frames. These quite prevented a smile, and induced 
 a most passive expression. She shook hands with us 
 all — and then sat down and waited. Soon there was 
 a commotion outside, and we were told to come 
 out and see the first part of the ceremony ; and then 
 we saw the eunuchs at work — the brutes ! 
 
 They had to make a line through the crowd, and 
 the way they pushed, and knocked and banged about 
 them, and the way they seized a girl I knew, and 
 pushed her back, made me laugh in spite of my indig- 
 nation at their want of respect to my sex. I took 
 good care to keep out of their way, for they would 
 have thought nothing of seizing hold of me and 
 pushing me where they wished. 
 
 When room was made the bride came out, and was 
 met by her eldest male relation, (the man who had 
 been " amusing " us) ; he tied a scarf round her waist 
 to show that she was an unmarried girl, and then 
 
2o8 A TURKISH WEDDING [ch. Iv 
 
 she went back to her room, while he (the uncle) 
 was skurried away, and we went back, too, to see 
 the bridegroom come in. 
 
 They declare that the two have never seen each 
 other, but I feel sure that she must have had him 
 pointed out to her, and that he had seen her with a 
 yashmak oh; but of course they never have spoken. 
 She is fifteen, he eighteen. When he was coming 
 she pulled the veil over her face. He was led into 
 the room, walked up to her, and, taking her hand, 
 put it on his arm, and as man and wife, walked away 
 with her, to the room with the throne, we following. 
 The doors were shut upon them for a second, and then 
 out he came, the eunuchs hustling him out of sight 
 of the other women, and bringing out whips — actually 
 whips — to drive back the excited females. You can't 
 imagine such a scene ! A regular, common scuffle, 
 every one pushing and pulling and screaming. I kept 
 one child in front of me, and expected her to be 
 frightened, but she laughed and was intensely amused, 
 while N. took to carrying Freddie lest he should be 
 squashed. 
 
 They were very kind in wishing us to see every- 
 thing/ and one of the Blacks (eunuchs) seized Miss 
 S., who happily was in front of me, and dragged her 
 on to the room where the bride was " on view." I 
 followed, and we were given chairs, and the whole 
 room-full came and sat and looked at the victim, and 
 we were shown all her relations, and women in yash- 
 maks and feridjes came in from the streets and stood 
 and gazed ; and then I got a hint that they were 
 keeping the room rather clear for us, so we got up 
 and went. I wanted then to send the children home, 
 but they insisted upon our all staying to lunch, 
 and we were shown into a room where we had a 
 great meal. There were meat dishes, and then a 
 sweet, none of them to our taste, and we starved 
 
i882] A TURKISH WEDDING 209 
 
 in the midst of plenty, though we had to pretend to 
 eat. 
 
 The dishes were handed separately, and plates 
 changed, but we kept our forks right through. Then 
 we went upstairs, and had coffee. 
 
 A very brilliant young lady arrived, whom we had 
 met at Princess Zeineb's. She had golden hair, of 
 the most unnatural colour, a long and elaborately 
 trimmed blue satin gown, a tiny hat fastened on the 
 back of her head, and French high-heeled shoes laced 
 on ; she remembered me, and sat by me, and when 
 she got up to go, kissed me ! 
 
 Having dined there, we had to stay a little while 
 afterwards, and it was more than half-past three 
 before I could suggest a move. Then there was some 
 difficulty in recovering my bonnet, and the parasols 
 which had been ravished from us, and while waiting, 
 I saw some characteristic scenes. One of the ladies 
 of the house took me down and waited with me in the 
 hall. There was a poor little girl sitting on a chair 
 there, and this she absolutely refused to give me, 
 until pushed out of it by force ; then I watched 
 with interest a woman who, being already in a short 
 white petticoat, kept tucking it up and up, until it 
 reached her knees, and then she walked about quite 
 happy. 
 
 Suddenly there was a great commotion, and it 
 was a moment before I saw what it all meant. The 
 women cowered into a corner, or else put their arms 
 in front of their faces, while a Black guardian gesticu- 
 lated at them, and at things in general — a white 
 waiter was passing ! 
 
 Upstairs they tell me there was tremendous excite- 
 ment over this, the women hiding their faces, and the 
 eunuchs enjoining them so to do, the plain ones quite 
 as anxious to hide themselves from the sight of man 
 as the young and beautiful were. The ladies of the 
 
210 A HOLIDAY AT PRINKIPO [ch. iv 
 
 house made all sorts of excuses to us for the crush 
 and scrimmage, but of course that is just what amused 
 us. The mother of the bride is a widow, but we 
 never clearly understood who the bridegroom was, 
 though I believe he is a relation of an ex-Foreign 
 Minister. I asked if there were any wedding presents. 
 I was told, " Yes, the guests give presents ; but they 
 all go to the mother to defray the expense of the 
 wedding." All the people who came in were fed. 
 
 Tuesday, T,oth. — The mail having been despatched, 
 we went in the launch to Therapia, D. and I, Mrs. 
 Wyndham, the Goschens, and the three bachelors. 
 It was a very nice afternoon, and we hoped D, would 
 be made to wish for the country. However, it is no 
 use wishing, for anything more uninhabitable than 
 our house looks at present can't be imagined. There 
 are workmen in every corner, no papers on any sitting- 
 room, and all the chintzes still to come from London. 
 Matting to be laid down everywhere, and the smell 
 of paint to be got rid of. 
 
 The roses in the garden were lovely, and my new 
 balcony splendid ; the church nearly finished, and 
 very nice. We had tea on the Antelope, and then 
 came home. 
 
 Wednesday, June yth. — ^A great holiday at Prinkipo, 
 the Bakers having asked us all to spend the day with 
 them. 
 
 On our way we went to look at the Tilburina, Mr. 
 Goschen and Mr. Hardinge's yacht. She is fifteen 
 tons, and has a big cabin. 
 
 The Bakers have a very nice house, but we all had 
 rather a shock when we first arrived, for we were 
 extremely hungry, and there were no signs of lunch, 
 but, on the contrary, the donkeys were at the door, 
 and we were asked if we could start at once. 
 
 We began to fear that we had not been expected 
 to lunch at all, but the boldest of the party said 
 
i882] KADEKEUI AND THERAPIA 211 
 
 plainly that he could not move till he had something 
 to eat, and then we were all given sherry and biscuit. 
 This proved an unnecessary meal, however, for after 
 riding a short way on our donkeys, we came upon a 
 splendid lunch spread by the seaside, which we all 
 thoroughly enjoyed. Mrs. Baker and the Pasha, ^ D., 
 and all of us rode to the place, where we sat on the 
 ground to eat, and rest. 
 
 Then we mounted again, and rode up to the Monas- 
 tery, where we stayed a short time before riding home. 
 On the way back, the children had some exciting 
 donkey races, and enjoyed themselves thoroughly. 
 
 Friday, gth. — ^We spent a very pleasant afternoon 
 at Kadekeui. First of all we had tea at Mrs. Baker's, 
 and then went on to the tennis-ground, where the 
 Embassy beat Kadekeui by six to one, ]\:r. Goschen 
 and Mr. Hardinge being our victorious representatives. 
 
 The children were made supremely happy by the 
 gift of two rabbits and two guinea pigs, and in another 
 basket Teddie Goschen carried off a second pair of 
 rabbits. 
 
 We were given antiquities, little lamps, pins and 
 rings, dug out of the ground there — and some lovely 
 roses. On the way back, the guinea-pigs got loose 
 in the carriage, and there was great excitement lest 
 they should be squashed, and lest they should take 
 to climbing, and when we got home we had to stand 
 on the seats, and search before we could venture to 
 open the doors. 
 
 Saturday, loth. — We had another afternoon at 
 Therapia. The day was beautiful, and the place 
 looked lovely. Our house is still full of workmen, 
 but it looks so nice, and is so fresh and cool and clean- 
 looking, with its greenery-yellery complexion. I 
 think we shall get into it on the 2ist, though as 
 my curtains and chintzes only start this week from 
 
 ' Sir Valentine Baker. 
 
212 TRANSLATION FROM A RUSSIAN BOOK [ch. iv 
 
 London, it will be long before we really are properly 
 established there. 
 
 The roses covered the trees, and the garden was 
 looking its very best, so that I really began to wish 
 to be there. 
 
 The church is a great success, and is nearly 
 finished. When I had done my business, I went to 
 call on the Bartholeyns, and found them in a nice 
 little house. Their father detests Therapia, and 
 never ceases abusing it. Mrs. Wyndham, who 
 thinks it the most beautiful place in the world, said 
 so; but he replied, " Then you can't have seen the 
 Boulevard des Italiens." 
 
 You will remember that the children came here 
 straight from Petrograd. I have just been sent the 
 following description of them, which amuses me very 
 much : 
 
 Translation from Mordoflisf's Book on " A Visit 
 TO THE Pyrenees " — in Russian 
 
 The author travelled with the children from Odessa to 
 Constantinople in May 1881 
 
 " We had with us on board, bound for Constan- 
 tinople, the family of Lord Dufferin, formerly English 
 Ambassador in Russia — three daughters and a son, 
 and with them an old Bonne as nurse. 
 
 " The daughters of the honourable diplomatist were 
 still quite girls, though the eldest of them is in appear- 
 ance fifteen to sixteen, and perhaps more ; she is still 
 quite a child. She does not, however, romp like her 
 younger sisters, nice girls like herself, but rather 
 reads a book. One of the other two, a charming 
 little romp, has the name of her Queen, Victoria. 
 The eldest * Lady ' conducts herself with unusual 
 simplicity and modesty, and she is dressed and 
 coiffee also in the most simple way. In her dress 
 there is not the least indication of ornament. What 
 specially pleases young ladies in general, high heels 
 
i882] TRANSLATION OF RUSSIAN LETTER 213 
 
 on their boots, is, in the case of this young * Miladi ' 
 entirely absent, though her boots are not altogether 
 slippers. Heaven forbid ! Shocking ! Her dress, 
 though not a short child's dress, was without even an 
 innocent inclination to an amiable falsehood, to un- 
 necessary length, or the least bit of a tail. 
 
 " Her second sister is a frightful despot in love. 
 She never for a moment separated herself from her 
 little dog, dragged it everywhere with a chain — and 
 such a thick one that, as our captain wittily proved 
 to the little lady, it was fit for a lion rather than for 
 her little dog. But then I saw in that chain a trail 
 of the British national character : to hold with a 
 strong chain, so that it should not break everything 
 that falls into their hands, whether it be India, or 
 Ireland, or the pet dog of a little child. The dog 
 evidently was not conscious of its frightful slavery, 
 probably because it had never known what it is to 
 run about without a chain at its neck. It never 
 took a step without its amiable despot, and always 
 looked into her eyes more lovingly even than Uncle 
 Tom could look into the eyes of those he loved. 
 
 " The young lord, of six or seven years of age, 
 always showed himself a genuine Englishman ; 
 loving order and cleanliness in everything. For the 
 young future diplomatist — and perhaps Prime Minis- 
 ter, some one of the sailors or the servants had made 
 a miserable broom, and my lord never left the deck, 
 or hurricane deck, constantly sweeping again and 
 again the same place. He even did not play with 
 the other children, but swept and swept. It is 
 wonderful how that occupation did not weary him 
 all the way to Constantinople. 
 
 " The steamer arrives in the Golden Horn, and is 
 at once surrounded by boats and caiques filled with 
 unfortunate ' Midianites ' and ' Arabians.' " 
 
 The author then continues : 
 
 ** At the same time, pushing aside the caiques of 
 these ' Midianites,' and ' Arabians,' flew up to the 
 
214 TRANSLATION OF RUSSIAN LETTERS [ch. iv 
 
 steamer an elegant steam-launch, wheezing and grace- 
 fully trembling, and carrying the British flag. 
 
 '* On it appeared in uniform a red-haired (of course) 
 Englishman, with elegant gloves, and a solid, appar- 
 ently good-natured Turk (Mustapha, the cavass), 
 covered with braid and gold lace, and fully armed, 
 evidently not of low rank, to receive with honour the 
 dear guests, and these dear guests pay no attention. 
 The elder * Miladi,' of course, exchanges salutations 
 with the gentleman in the elegant gloves, and smiles 
 in reply to the cordial salutations of the fat Turk, 
 but the younger branches of the Embassy continue 
 their occupations ; my lord busies himself with his 
 broom, and looks in the faces of the Pharaohs and the 
 Ethiopians ; the younger lady thinks only of her little 
 dog, and makes him jump over his lion's chain — ^whilst 
 the younger Miladi drags her dolls into the cutter. 
 Their worldly greatness is still not understood by them. 
 
 " You should have seen with what tenderness and 
 veneration the fat Turk took in his greasy paw the 
 little hand of the child-lord, freed from its broom, 
 and decidedly feared to let go the treasure as a 
 guarantee of the future and the hope of Turkey. 
 
 " Why, that flat-nosed little lord, following in the 
 footsteps of his papa, may likewise be Ambassador 
 in Turkey, and perhaps physician to the so-called 
 * sick man,' as Turkey has been incorrectly styled 
 for the last two centuries. The steam cutter, with 
 the hope of Turkey, rapidly disappeared, and I 
 occupied myself with the meetings of other dear 
 guests." 
 
 Having heard this read, Freddy insisted upon 
 writing a letter to Mr. Mackenzie Wallace, who had 
 made the translation. I give it with its original 
 spelling. 
 
 ** My dear Walis, 
 
 " I am sorry that he thinks I did nothing but 
 swep all the time on the boat. 
 
 " That fat Turk was Mustapha; he is very nice. 
 
i882] BEGINNING OF A CRISIS 215 
 
 Do you think that I have got a very flat nose ? I 
 think that boys do not mind what other people say 
 about flat noses and other things Hke that. I hope 
 I win be a very clever man like papa, but then I 
 think I will not be so clever as papa, and I think I 
 will not be the hope of Terky. 
 
 " Good-bye, my dear Mister Walls, 
 " Your affecshonate, 
 
 " Freddy Blackwood." 
 
 Lots of telegrams, and much Egyptian excitement. 
 Some newsmonger drops in of an evening generally ; 
 D. enjoys this business very much, and feels as if it 
 were really worth doing. 
 
 Monday, igth. — ^Three Ambassadors, and two 
 Charges d 'Affaires lunched with us, and sat afterwards 
 in solemn conclave till half-past three, when they 
 went off in a body to the Porte ; D. only returned at 
 a quarter to eight. The morning was wet, but I was 
 able to go out in the afternoon in the garden. 
 
 Therapia, Friday 22,rd, Saturday 24th. — Sir Frederick 
 Goldsmid is out here, bringing with him his special 
 knowledge of Egyptian Finance questions. 
 
 Sunday, 2$tk. — Our new church was opened. 
 Every available singer was pressed into the choir, 
 and many people came from a distance, and all the 
 Embassy stayed for the sermon (which is not always 
 the case), and every one admired the little chapel. 
 
 There has never been one here before, and this is 
 very pretty, the old English style, with red tiles on 
 the roof, and beams showing outside and in. 
 
 Monday, 26th. — D. is very busy with a Conference, 
 every other day — occasional visits to the Porte, etc. 
 
 In the afternoon I went on board Mr. Goschen's 
 and Mr. Hardinge's yacht, and had tea there, Mrs. 
 Goschen presiding. I hoisted the flag, bearing her 
 name, the Tilburina. 
 
 Thursday, 2gth. — D. dined with Count Corti, a 
 15 
 
2i6 RECEPTION AND VISITS [ch. iv 
 
 Conference dinner, the business being done after, 
 and going on till nearly two o'clock a.m. 
 
 In spare moments, D. goes and looks at his boat 
 (the Lady Hermione), which is being got into order. 
 
 Captain Grenfell came to tell us that the trial was 
 at last over, and that the man who struck Captain 
 Selby was condemned to fifteen years' imprisonment, 
 and the one who began the quarrel to one year's. He 
 thought the trial had been very well conducted. 
 
 Monday, July ^rd. — -We went a lovely ride over the 
 hills, and home by the Buyukdere mines. D. and 
 other Ambassadors went down to the Porte, and made 
 a great commotion when they found the Ministers 
 were out. D. was the spokesman of their indigna- 
 tion, and he says he made the said Porte shake in 
 its sublime shoes. 
 
 Tuesday, 4th. — I had my first monthly reception, 
 and it was most successful after the first hour, when 
 people were inclined to resolve themselves into a 
 formal circle ; that inclination once overcome, they 
 stood about and talked, and kept together, and 
 seemed happy. 
 
 Wednesday, Sth. — I heard, to my great disappoint- 
 ment, that my curtains and furniture will not get 
 here till the 30th, so I have no chance of seeing my 
 drawing-room nicely arranged yet. We have put up 
 quantities of prints and photos in the gallery, which 
 furnish it very much. 
 
 D. had a sail in his boat in the morning, and sat 
 at the Conference all the afternoon. 
 
 Saturday, Sth. — ^Visits from two gay Turkish ladies, 
 gave them five o'clock tea, and introduced them to 
 three gentlemen, which was great dissipation for 
 them. Then we went out riding — a lovely ride over 
 the hills. 
 
 Monday, loth. — I paid visits on the Hill. *' The 
 Hill " is the upper part of Therapia, and is just at 
 
THE " LADY HERMIONE 
 
i882] THE CRISIS 217 
 
 the back of our garden, but I always find great diffi- 
 culty in getting there 1 
 
 I must tell you how D. spent the day. He had 
 been writing up to nearly two a.m., and in the 
 morning he was extremely busy till lunch, when he 
 started off to go to the Porte ; just as he left the 
 quay, however, a telegram came, begging him not to 
 come ; so he returned, and, after a very short rest, 
 set to work again. Before dinner he was inter- 
 rupted twice, by Russia and Germany, coming on 
 business. When dinner was ready we began with- 
 out him, and he came in with the pudding. Then, 
 before he left the dining-room, General Wallace came 
 with a message from the Sultan, and before he went 
 the other Wallace (Mackenzie Wallace), arrived full 
 of news and business too. D. talked with him till a 
 quarter past eleven — then did a little more business, 
 and to bed about half-past twelve. 
 
 But no rest even there 1 At two o'clock came 
 a knock at the door, " The Foreign Minister is here^ 
 and wishes to see his Excellency," so poor D. had to 
 get up and dress, and did not get back to bed till 
 four. There is a picture of an Ambassador in a 
 crisis 1 
 
 Thursday, I'^th. — D. took me out in the Lady Her- 
 mione, but we did not have a very long sail, as Mr. 
 G<3rdon Bennett's big yacht, the Namouna, came in, 
 and we went on board, and were taken into the Black 
 Sea and back by her. She is 600 tons, and is very 
 prettily arranged as to cabins, the decoration being 
 most aesthetic. The vessel is lighted by electricity. 
 
 Tuesday, iZth. — D. and Nelly and I sailed in the 
 Tilburina, with the owners and Mr. Bland. It was 
 a lovely day, and all went well with us. We made 
 tea on board, and got home at 8 p.m. 
 
 As we were hurrying up to the house Count Corti 
 put his head out of the window, and asked D. to 
 
2i8 CONFERENCES [ch. iv 
 
 come in. He told him the Turks had telegraphed to 
 ask for a Conference that evening, but Count Corti, 
 having a dinner-party, and not being very keen about 
 it, had not answered the telegram ; still, he thought 
 they might appear on the scene later, and he asked 
 D. to have the meeting here. A room was arranged 
 for the purpose, but when no one appeared at 1 1 p.m., 
 the lights were extinguished. Very soon after, how- 
 ever, three of the " Powers " walked in, just to see if 
 anything was going on, and they had just given up 
 all thoughts of conferring, when Said, Pasha appeared. 
 Finally, however, it was decided not to sit so late at 
 night, and the meeting was put off till to-day. It was 
 very funny to see how, just as each " Power " said 
 good-night, he seized hold of Said, and whispered a 
 few last words to him — ^just like a thing in a play. 
 He stayed behind with D. and kept him up till half- 
 past one. 
 
 Monday, Aug. yth. — D. went down to Said's house 
 for the Conference, and only got back at dinner-time. 
 I sat ill the garden, and looked on at a little languid 
 tennis . 
 
 Wednesday, i6th. — ^We had a delightful ride, - a 
 party of twelve, to Kelia, a life-boat station on the 
 Black Sea. We had " telephoned " to Mr. Palmer 
 that we were coming, so the place was decorated with 
 flags, and the Turkish sailors were drawn up in line 
 to receive us. The ride is lovely, over hills and 
 downs, with now a view of the Bosphorus, and then 
 one of the Black Sea, and the road is good. We took 
 about two hours to get there, and, after tea and a 
 rest, we came back in time for dinner. 
 
 Friday, i8th. — D. broke his mast against a Station- 
 naire at Buyukdere, which is a great bore for him, 
 as it shuts up his little ship, his greatest pleasure, for 
 a few days. He then went to town to settle about 
 the Military Convention with Said Pasha. It was 
 
i882] A PERSIAN PICNIC 219 
 
 so late when he had finished that he had to stay for 
 dinner, and did not get home till i a.m. 
 
 Saturday, igth. — ^The Persian Ambassador gave a 
 sort of picnic dinner, to which he asked all the 
 married diplomatists, and all the children ; I took 
 all my seven ! 
 
 We went in the steam launch and big caique to the 
 Sweet Waters of Asia. There is a very picturesque 
 bit up a narrow river, with rickety wooden Turkish 
 houses rising out of the water, rushes on the other 
 bank, and some big trees ; it was very pretty to see 
 the caiques going up this narrow way. There were 
 ninety-six people seated at dinner, and everything 
 was well managed. We were two hours at table, but 
 Baron Calici was very pleasant, and I did not find 
 it long, and I had opposite me the children's table, 
 where they seemed to enjoy themselves very much. 
 
 At the end of the dinner, the landscape was lighted 
 up with coloured fires (a little tea-gardenish), and 
 by nine o'clock we all left, and had a delightful row 
 home — even an exciting one — ^for our men raced 
 another big caique, and we were all bent upon winning, 
 which we did; but sometimes the long pointed end 
 of the rival seemed as if it would almost get into 
 our eyes, so close was it. The Russian Stationnaire 
 lighted up as we passed. 
 
 Wednesday, 2ird. — D. went out sailing, and while 
 he was out Munir Bey came from the Sultan ; we had 
 to send out after D., and it was amusing to watch 
 the chase from the windows. He went to Said Pasha's 
 house, dined with him, and got home at eleven. 
 During the interview the Turks tried to go back upon 
 some of their promises, so D. got up, left the room, 
 and walked downstairs, followed by all the Ministers, 
 and all the servants, begging him to return, which 
 he did. 
 
 Thursday, 24th. — D. sailed in the afternoon, and 
 
4 
 
 220 GARDEN PARTY AND SAUCE [ch. iv 
 
 again two sets of messengers from the Sultan arrived, 
 and again they had to be told he was out on the 
 Bosphorus. The Turks must be so astonished at 
 an Ambassador who goes wandering about the 
 Bosphorus alone. D. always waits at home till two 
 o'clock, and they never send to say they are coming, 
 so they cannot expect to find him here whenever 
 they choose to come. 
 
 Friday, 2 $th. — ^We gave a large garden-party. The 
 Turks did not flock to it, at which we were not 
 surprised. There were 320 people. The terrace 
 where the tennis-ground is was decorated with flags, 
 and carpets laid down in places, so that it looked like 
 a very big drawing-room. A band played, and every 
 one seemed pleased and amused. Mr. Greville came 
 from Athens to stay with us. 
 
 Wednesday, 2>'^th. — ^We had a farewell dance for 
 Madame Wallenberg (daughter of the Swedish 
 Minister), who is a great favourite with us all. In 
 the morning I arranged the house, which looked very 
 pretty, and was much admired at night. There is a 
 round central hall, open to the roof, with a wide 
 gallery leading out of it on two sides, a large door 
 into the garden, and big doors into a room on the 
 other two. The garden doors were open, and a 
 flag-lined tent made to close in a space of about 
 twelve feet ; this was carpeted and had sofas in it, 
 and one lamp, with a shade which looked like a big 
 owl, glared upon the dancers. It was a charming | 
 place to sit in, and with all these exits, the circular 
 ball-room was never too crowded, and the open 
 windows on the story above kept it very cool. 
 
 In the middle of the party Said Pasha arrived 
 on business. The Sultan was again troublesome, and 
 wanted to put off signing the Convention " for two 
 days more " (as usual). 
 
 When the business was over the poor old Pasha 
 
 i. 
 
i«82] THE TILBURINA AND THE HERMIONE 221 
 
 came into the ball-room, and seemed much amused. 
 The Sultan works his wretched Ministers day and 
 night, and Said told me he really does not know 
 when he sleeps ; since he has been in office (three 
 months) he is never sure of a night in bed. He stayed 
 till about two, then he went back to town and to the 
 Palace, and when I came down to breakfast next 
 morning, 
 
 Thursday, 31 si. — I heard he was back here again ! 
 This time D. was pleased ; the Sultan is capitulating, 
 and is ready to do anything. 
 
 I went out in the Tilburina with Mr. and Mrs. 
 Goschen and Mr. Greville, and as soon as we had 
 had a nice sail we anchored, and began to cook our 
 own lunch on some small lamps we have. While we 
 were enjoying it, the Lady Hermione sailed round us, 
 and got ashore ; and then there was a great hauling 
 upon anchors, and pushing and pulling, and many 
 nautical manoeuvres were gone through, and the crews 
 got into the water ; but all to no purpose till a caique 
 came near with two Hercules on board, who calmly 
 got out of their boat, put their shoulders under the 
 bows of the Hermione, and with one more strong pull 
 at the anchors, seemed to lift her easily off into deep 
 water. 
 
 When thiswas accomplished we thought it about time 
 for tea, so we boiled the kettle, and then sailed home. 
 
 We were all dining with Count Corti — another fare- 
 well entertainment to Madame Wallenberg. She has 
 many great admirers here, but the general public 
 also regrets her departure, as she is bright and lively, 
 always ready for everything, and liked by everybody. 
 
 Friday, September ist. — ^We are going in the Ante- 
 lope for a little fishing expedition to the Islands. 
 The fleet (three boats) goes with us, and we shall 
 stay four days. The weather is quite lovely. 
 
 Let no one say Friday is an unlucky day to start 
 
222 THE ISLANDS [ch. iv 
 
 on an expedition, for we have tried it, and have had 
 a most charming holiday. 
 
 At two o'clock in the afternoon our whole fleet, 
 consisting of the Antelope, the Lady Hermione (D.'s 
 single-handed sailing-boat), the Tilburina (with her 
 captains, Mr. Goschen and Mr. Hardinge), and the 
 Rambler, manned by Archie and Mr. Macfarren, — not 
 to mention the very magnificent steam launch, 
 Gazelle, and her humble companion the " steam cut- 
 ter," moved out of Therapia Bay on a cruise to the 
 Islands ; the children watched the grand departure 
 from the shore, and we on board the Antelope — Mrs. 
 Goschen, Mr. Bland, Captain Joliffe, and myself — 
 all became deeply interested in watching the move- 
 ments of the yachts, as they took their different 
 courses, the one getting a little more current, the 
 other a little more wind, etc. 
 
 At first our interest was more in the race than in 
 anything else, but when the wind rose into a real live 
 ** gale," our emotion became more serious, and we 
 had some frightful shudders when we saw the vessels 
 heeling well over. I got Captain Joliffe to keep with 
 them, and when we got to Moda Bay, we decided to 
 anchorT— and not tempt the stormy seas any more. 
 A short period of calm ensued, with all our yachts- 
 men " on shore " — that is, on board the Antelope — tea 
 and cigarettes, and a feeling of being in port, are 
 restful after a rough voyage ; this was ruthlessly 
 broken into by Captain Joliffe, who suddenly suggested 
 going on again. He declared the wind had moderated, 
 though no one else thought so. He was obeyed, but 
 the Tilburina had to unpack her sail, and to get up 
 her big anchor, and so started a little later. D. 
 happily took a man with him, for it was quite dark 
 when we got to Prinkipo, and it would have been 
 difficult for him to manage alone. When we were at 
 anchor we burnt blue lights to show the yachts where 
 
i882] AMATEUR COOKING 223 
 
 we were, and we were very glad when they were all 
 safe beside us. 
 
 Saturday, 2nd. — The high winds continue, so, al- 
 though Mrs. Goschen and I went in the Antelope to 
 Bulwer's Island, we did not attempt to land, and 
 the yachts sailed about at their own sweet will, and 
 were independent of us. We had a rendezvous at 
 two o'clock in a little harbour in another island, which 
 we found so charming that we resolved to spend 
 the night there. We landed at a little cafe close 
 by, taking with us our cooking-stoves, and the raw 
 material, and, having chosen a nice sheltered, but 
 rather sunny spot for our kitchen, we began to 
 prepare our luncheon. 
 
 Just at this moment the giant " Business ** fol- 
 lowed the Ambassador, and he found he must go up to 
 town ; so v/e quickly cooked him some sausages and 
 potatoes, and ** the very best eggs he ever ate in his 
 life," and he went off in the Hermione, sailed her to 
 Constantinople, and came back for dinner. 
 
 We, in the meantime, had great fun over our 
 luncheon. Great was the jealousy amongst the cooks, 
 and great the desire of the rest of the party to 
 assist ; but of course " too many cooks " (you know 
 the end), so we would not hear of their putting their 
 fingers in the pie, and we made some lay the tables, 
 and do the messages while others superintended the 
 pots on two little stoves, and Mrs. Goschen had one 
 all to herself, in which she did her favourite dish 
 of fried potatoes. We used twenty-four eggs — the 
 breaking of each one being a joy in itself — and we 
 fried " Wiltshire bacon," and cooked marvellous 
 sausages, and when it was all ready we proved the 
 success of our efforts by eating up every morsel. 
 
 This brought us very near tea-time, so we next had 
 to boil water for that, and we sat under the trees 
 enjoying ourselves most of the afternoon. 
 
224 FISHING [CH. IV 
 
 Then we thought we ought to do something ener- 
 getic, so we laid down a ** paraketta," that is, a line 
 with 250 hooks attached to it buoyed up at each 
 end, which you leave for an hour or two, hoping 250 
 fishes will be tempted to swallow the 250 baits ; let 
 me say at once, that the virtuous monsters of this 
 deep resisted the temptation put before them. While 
 we were waiting their pleasure, we began to fish 
 with lines, and we all discovered, I will not say a 
 talent, but certainly a strong inclination for the 
 sport ; so much so, that we settled to begin again at 
 daybreak next morning. 
 
 Some of the party had been putting down a seine 
 meantime, and we arrived to see it drawn in — ^with 
 not much in it ; then we went on board, waited 
 for D.'s return, and dined very late. 
 
 Sunday, 2^d. — ^The fishermen were awoke by the 
 news that " Lady D. is on the bridge " ; so I was, at 
 a quarter past five. Mr. Bland, Mr. Hardinge, and 
 Archie joined me there, and we had cocoa and biscuits ; 
 and then, having picked up Mr. Goschen, who slept 
 on the Tilburina, we went off on our fishing expedition. 
 There were various very small sums bet upon the 
 first fieh, and the most fish, which appeared to add to 
 the interest ; and before our return to the ship for 
 breakfast, we had caught thirty between us. The 
 morning was lovely, and I enjoyed the " outing " 
 immensely. 
 
 Later in the day we picked up another paraketta, 
 on which a dog-fish, a skate (with an absurdly comical 
 face), and a large orange star-fish had met their fate. 
 
 Again D. was dragged off to town. He bears this 
 with resignation, as, owing to the strong winds which 
 continue, he is able to sail down in his beloved little 
 ship. 
 
 A lovely morning, but not very good fishing ; only 
 thirteen fish caught. The day was less windy, so we 
 
 I 
 
i882] SQUALLS 225 
 
 determined to " have a good sail," and to meet for 
 luncheon at two o'clock. 
 
 D. went alone in the Hermione, Clandeboye and 
 Mr. Macferran ^ in the Rambler, and the rest of us in the 
 Tilburina. We had a very nice sail round the island 
 of Prinkipo, with only one adventure, which I confess 
 did bring my heart into my mouth for a moment. 
 The rendezvous place seemed to be a perfect cave of 
 the winds ; squall after squall came out of it, and, as 
 we had just come from a summer sea, we had not much 
 weigh on, and were an easy prey to the wind. It 
 laid us over very flat, and the water came over our 
 " combings " ; at this moment the boat came off to 
 fetch us, and Mrs. Goschen and I were very glad to 
 get into it before a fresh blast should attack us. I 
 am bound to say the Tilburina recovered herself 
 beautifully, but I felt rather nervous, even on shore, 
 till I saw the whole fleet safely anchored. 
 
 Our luncheon place was on the top of a hill, and we 
 had something of a climb to get to it. The wind was 
 rather playful, and blew a claret bottle over me, but 
 one likes this sort of " roughing it " occasionally. 
 
 I embarked on the Hermione to go home, and, as 
 the wind was steadier, I had a nice sail with D., and 
 later on board the Antelope, changed my claret-stained 
 gown, and called on Mrs. (Valentine) Baker, where most 
 of our party met, some having walked there. We had 
 tea and talk, and congratulated her upon the General's 
 Mission to Egypt. Then home to dinner — afterwards 
 sat on deck while Captain Joliffe held forth upon the 
 rules and regulations for the diet of sailors, and the 
 mystery of " Extra Cocoa." This sent Mr. Bland to 
 sleep, and, as none of us seemed particularly wide 
 awake, I went off to bed. 
 
 After breakfast, but while still at table, we de- 
 ciphered a telegram, and then D. gathered together 
 
 * Private Secretary. 
 
226 BULWER'S ISLAND [ch. iv 
 
 his papers and started for town. As he had business 
 to do, I took my passage in the Tilburina. We sailed 
 on to Moda Bay, without any tacking or trouble, 
 but when we got there we began to " beat," and 
 finally got to the Antelope about half-past six. 
 
 Lest you should think we are quite idle, I may 
 tell you that kavasses, steam launches, and drago- 
 mans are ever on the move about us, that telegrams 
 are ciphered and deciphered on board — ^in fact, we 
 are in the midst of a crisis. 
 
 Monday, 4th. — ^The wind is still very high. D. and 
 Archie, who are the keenest of yachtsmen, decided 
 to sail, but the owners of the Tilburina preferred to 
 stay with us on board the Antelope, on our trip to 
 Bulwer's Island. It was so rough that we found it 
 most difficult to land there, but we did finally dis- 
 embark (having picked up Archie and D.) at the foot 
 of a very steep and rocky precipice. 
 
 The Sultan gave Sir Henry Bulwer this very small 
 and rocky island, so he built at the top of it a queer 
 habitation, with a quantity of small rooms, with as 
 little view as he could manage to get from them, 
 with false books round the walls, very gloomy and 
 miserable. Nearer the sea, a gateway and stables with 
 towers and turrets, imposing and useless. Having 
 finished this " Folly," he sold it to the Khedive. It 
 is said that when Sir Henry's successor called upon 
 Lord Palmerston for instructions, the only advice he 
 gave him was, " Don't get shipwrecked on an island." 
 
 We scrambled down successfully, and without 
 accident, but we could not see that any animal but a 
 goat could ever reach those magnificent stables. 
 
 The launch was here at half-past three, and the 
 boys went off, their holidays being over, Nelly and 
 Hermie going with them as far as town, and coming 
 back looking very tearful. 
 
 I drove to Buyukdere, to do a visit or two, and 
 
i882] LONG HOURS AT THE PALACE 227 
 
 afterwards sailed with D. I took on board to him 
 the news of an Egyptian victory. 
 
 Friday, i$th. — ^The news of Egyptian victories 
 pours in, and is very exciting. 
 
 To-day D. went down to the Palace. He was away 
 fourteen hours, eleven of them actually at the Palace. 
 He declined to " argue with monarchs," and so sat 
 in another room with about fifteen diplomatising men, 
 who brought messages from the Sultan, argued with 
 him, and held him by the coat-tails when he threatened 
 to leave. 
 
 The Convention was not signed, and the Govern- 
 ment now think it too late. The Turks have made a 
 dreadful mess of it ; if they had gone to Egypt instead 
 of us, how they would have improved their position ! 
 And now ? Baker ^ Pasha says that " no one but D. 
 could have managed this affair," and that, " in spite 
 of everything, the Turks like him." 
 
 Monday, i8th. — I went in the big caique this after- 
 noon with Mrs. Wyndham and Mrs. Goschen, and 
 paid three visits. One to the Persian Ambassadress, 
 who received us in her empty sitting-room, where 
 we sat on divans, and had a very good cup of tea ; 
 but the conversation, as filtered through a black 
 boy, was not very interesting. We then proceeded 
 
 to Madame H Pasha, a representative of an 
 
 " advanced " Turkish lady — the most fluent French 
 chatter, Alfred de Musset on the table, etc. We next 
 visited Princess Halim, a real lady, emancipated as far 
 as possible from the trammels of female bondage in 
 this country, but very quiet and nice. I have never 
 liked to go there since Egyptian troubles began, lest 
 we should be supposed to be intriguing with the 
 prince ; and she seemed so pleased to see me, and said, 
 " The quarantine is lifted." 
 
 Wednesday, 20th. — ^We all went in the Antelope to 
 1 Sir Valentine Baker. 
 
228 THE GIANT'S MOUNTAIN [ch. iv 
 
 the Kadikeui Regatta. The Hermione, Tilburina, 
 and Rambler were all to sail, but there was not nearly 
 enough wind for D.'s boat. On our way down we 
 had the satisfaction of beating Admiral Hobart's 
 Hawk, and the Italian Stationnaire. Then we 
 anchored in Moda Bay, and had luncheon on board. 
 At three the boats started. The Tilburina' s mast 
 broke at the outset, so she was out of it, and D.'s 
 great rival and the winner of the race was a twenty 
 ton yacht, so he looked a mite beside her, and con- 
 soled himself with a little private race with Mr 
 Macfarren, which he won. We went on shore to 
 tea, and on our return to the vessel played games 
 till the j'-achts came in — ^when we started for home 
 The children enjoyed the day very much, and Freddy 
 amused himself and others by his sports on the top 
 of the awning, which makes a delightful sort of '■ toss 
 in the blanket " game. 
 
 Friday, 22nd. — ^We went such a beautiful exploring 
 ride all over the hills, and found such soft roads 
 and such lovely views, and enjoyed the fine air in 
 Belgrade Forest. 
 
 Wednesday, 2jth. — ^We had a very successful tea 
 picnic^ to the Giant's Mountain. We went in the 
 launch to Beicos, and then walked or drove in arabas 
 (ox-carts) to the top. The views on the way were 
 perfectly lovely. At the top there is a well, down 
 which the children shouted, and were answered back 
 by a resounding echo ; and then we all proceedec 
 to the wishing- trees. They are in a small court off 
 a mosque, and are planted on the grave of Joshua 
 or rather over one of his legs, which must have been 
 a gigantic limb. The wishers tie a bit of something 
 belonging to them on a branch, and the shrubs 
 produce a most curious appearance, covered as they 
 are with rag-blossoms of all sorts and colours. 
 
 Preparations are being made for a regatta, and 
 
i882] A REGATTA 229 
 
 much rehearsing and discussion goes on about it. 
 The amateurs' rowing race, for which the ladies give 
 a prize, is exciting. The Enghsh, Itahans, Austrians 
 and Russians have boats, but the EngHsh is the 
 only one which keeps to its own countrymen, the other 
 crews being mixed. They go out to practise twice a 
 day, and our men are in a great state of anxiety, 
 because they feel that as Englishmen they must win, 
 and yet they fear they are very bad. Our big caique 
 is also practising, and the Bosphorus is quite gay with 
 competitors of various kinds, in spite of very rough 
 and showery weather. 
 
 Wednesday, Oct. nth. — ^The " Upper Bosphorus Re- 
 gatta " is over, and has been the greatest success I 
 Weather splendid, no contretemps, crowds of people, 
 great interest shown in the races, and the English 
 sufficiently victorious. 
 
 We made ourselves smart in honour of the occa- 
 sion, and, directly after breakfast, went out on the 
 balcony, from whence we could see the whole course ; 
 the view up into the Black Sea, round by Buyukdere, 
 and then all along our quay and down the Bosphorus, 
 was lovely. The water was covered with caiques, 
 sailing-boats, launches, etc., and the quay was crowded 
 with sight-seers . Later on carriages, too, promenaded 
 up and down, and yashmaks could be seen in some of 
 them, while some Turkish ladies even ventured on the 
 water. The first race was for the state caiques, and we 
 went down to see them start ; at first the men struck, 
 and said they must have more money for rowing, but 
 a fervent " Go home I " brought them to their senses, 
 and four started. They had a first-rate race, and 
 we won. Our old caiquejee (steerer) in his red-and- 
 gold costume, embraced his men when they passed 
 the winning-post. 
 
 Meantime we had returned to our balcony, and 
 were in a state of the wildest excitement over our 
 
230 REGATTA SPORTS [ch. iv 
 
 amateur race ; we rather feared the ItaUans, so, 
 when we saw our boat ahead of them, there was 
 such a waving of sashes and handkerchiefs as they 
 passed the Embassy as never was, and Mr. Bland who 
 followed them in the steam launch was standing on 
 the top of the cabin, waving his hat, and cheering in 
 the most frantic manner. It was most exciting. We 
 also won the men-of-war sailing race, and the Italians 
 the rowing race. 
 
 Another very interesting one was between the 
 life-boats. 
 
 After this the greasy pole began. It was just 
 under our balcony. There was a pig in a basket at 
 the end of it, and any one who could get to the end, 
 was to let it out ; the pig would drop into the water, i 
 and there would be a great chase after it. All round 
 the place were quantities of boats of all sorts. At 
 first there was the usual fun of men starting off in 
 various states of balance, and finally tumbling into 
 the water ; no one reached the pig, but at last he 
 worked himself out of his basket, and plump he went 
 into the Bosphorus ; an excited sailor in full dress, 
 jumped after him and seized him in his arms, which 
 brought all the half-naked athletes to a sense of the 
 situation, and they all jumped in too, and there 
 was such a struggle and a squealing from the pig, 
 and then the sailor tried to clamber into the boat 
 with the pig in his arms, and the boat capsized, and 
 two more dressed sailors went over with it, and more 
 " scrimmaging " began. Then they all seized hold 
 of another boat, and were on the point of capsizing 
 it, when they suddenly discovered that D.'s sailor 
 had slipped round in his dinghy to the other side, 
 and was carrying off the pig in triumph. 
 
 The life-boat exercises were very interesting, too. 
 They upset their boat, clambering up under the seats 
 as they did so, and remaining under several minutes 
 
i882] AN IMPORTANT TELEGRAM 231 
 
 till the boat righted itself, and like bees, one saw them 
 coming out from their cells . My balcony was crowded 
 with guests all day. I had some people to lunch, 
 and more to tea. 
 
 One of the kavasses said to Arthur, " I never saw 
 such people as you English are. You do everything : 
 you ride, and you play games, and you sail, and now 
 you row." 
 
 The wind, which generally is to be found at Ther- 
 apia, has failed altogether, and this week there is 
 no sailing to be had. We tried fishing on Saturday 
 evening, but there was so much phosphorus that the 
 fishes saw the golden line let down to them, to say 
 nothing of the stars of light that wandered over the 
 surface of the water, and were too enlightened to bite. 
 October 16th. — Early Monday morning we got up 
 to see the comet ; such a magnificent one 1 Its 
 reflection in the Bosphorus was a sight ! 
 
 October 2gth. — I had just come out from breakfast 
 when D. called me, and showed me a telegram he 
 had just received from Lord Granville. " Would you 
 be willing to go to Egypt for a time ? " D. replied 
 that he would be ready to start in three days. So 
 it was decided on Monday morning that we should 
 lift our camp and start on Thursday with plate, 
 linen, china, and glass. A palace is to be lent us at 
 Cairo, and we are to travel in the Antelope. 
 
 The Sultan was much displeased at D.'s appoint- 
 ment, and sent his private secretary to protest, 
 saying, " He would look upon his going as an offence." 
 D. replied that he could receive no message affecting 
 the relations of the two countries except through 
 the Sultan's responsible Ministers. The result of this 
 answer was that the Sultan telegraphed to say that 
 he would receive D. before he left. 
 
 So, on November 2nd, D. went to the Palace and 
 was most cordially received. 
 16 
 
232 EN ROUTE TO EGYPT [ch. iv 
 
 I left Therapia in the Antelope, and D. came on 
 board at Pera after this satisfactory interview. We 
 are about twenty on board : ourselves, Nelly (whom I 
 have emancipated from the school-room), Katie and 
 Arthur, Mr. Bland, Mr. Macfarren, two maids, four 
 men-servants, two kavasses, cook, etc. The Antelope 
 is not very fast, but we have passed through the 
 Dardanelles, and the weather is lovely. 
 
 Saturday, November 4th. — ^We arrived at Syra 
 about ten o'clock, and, as we had to coal, we were 
 glad to leave the ship. Syra looks like a cardboard 
 town, very white square houses built along the 
 quay, where all the " Orthodox " live, and then, after 
 a space of neutral ground, on which are no buildings, 
 comes the Catholic quarter, climbing up a very steep 
 hill, with their church at the summit. Everything 
 is built of marble, and there is a square with a broad 
 white marble pavement in the middle for a promen- 
 ade — not a tree is to be seen anywhere, and the place 
 looks intensely barren. Mr. Binney (a nephew of 
 our old Dr. Binney) is the Consul, and the head 
 of all the Eastern Telegraphs there. He took us a 
 drive to a garden, which, from the difficulty of 
 growing flowers here, is a sight, and, though the place 
 belonged to the mayor, we broke into it in a most 
 burglarious manner. The view from the yacht is 
 lovely — the sea a beautiful blue — the town climbing 
 the hill is picturesque in the distance, and the other 
 islands are all lovely when you get far enough from 
 them. Tenos we passed very close to, and it looked 
 just like a raised map. A mountain-range on the 
 map is a stone wall in the island, and there are 
 curious volcanic hills with odd shapes. Our weather 
 is beautiful, and we have a fair wind. 
 
 Sunday, ^th. — ^Weather still fine, and wind fair. 
 Passed by Crete. We had a telegram from Sir E. 
 Malet at Syra, to say he had accepted the palace 
 
i882] ARRIVAL AT ALEXANDRIA 233 
 
 offered by the Khedive for us on our first arrival ; but 
 that, as it is some way out of town, he has arranged 
 for us to move into another house lent us in the 
 town, " with beautiful rooms and large garden," as 
 soon as it can be got ready. 
 
 Tuesday, jth. — ^The flat coast of Egypt in sight, and 
 great scrubbing going on on board, so that we may 
 look smart on arrival. Captain Joliffe is beaming 
 at having made so good a passage, and the navigating 
 Lieutenant is deep in the difficult entry to the har- 
 bour. We all stand on the bridge and look at the 
 holes made in the fortifications, and then, as we 
 approach nearer, we begin to make out what ships 
 are there, and what " rig " the sailors on them wear 
 — ^we are so afraid of not being quite correct — and 
 then an Arab pilot comes to take us to our mooring, 
 and different officials board us, and, as we pass 
 the Khedive's yacht, a big band begins to play, and 
 bugles on the other ships to salute, and then from 
 several ships the nineteen guns are fired, and so we 
 are fastened to our buoy amidst a flourish of trumpets. 
 
 Then comes an official sent by the Khedive to 
 receive us — and the Consul, and Captain Fitzroy of 
 the Orion (who led the Naval Brigade), and it is 
 settled that we shall go for a drive round Alexandria, 
 — have lunch at one of the palaces, and proceed by 
 special train to Cairo at one o'clock. So we get into 
 a magnificent barge of the Khedive's, and I sit on a 
 blue velvet and gold throne, and we are rowed by 
 eighteen men in sailor uniform, who have a very 
 peculiar stroke. They have great heavy oars, cut 
 in an octagon shape, and each time they turn them 
 over with a rattle. At starting, they went very fast, 
 but, as we are great swells, and must be moving along 
 in a dignified fashion, the " stroke " soon gave a 
 signal, and then they all made a long pause as they 
 bent forward over the oar, and another as they pulled 
 
234 . ALEXANDRIA [ch. iv 
 
 back. So we landed, and got into the Khedive's 
 carriages. Two smart runners ran before us — men 
 with fezes, sleeveless gold-embroidered jackets, long 
 white sleeves fastened together behind, white loose 
 trousers and bare brown legs ; in their hands they 
 carried sticks. As we passed along the streets all 
 who were sitting rose, and everybody made some sort 
 of salute. The streets are very well paved, but all 
 the finest part of the town was burnt down. The 
 curious thing is that the ruins do not look burnt. 
 You see no trace of smoke, and what is demolished is 
 done thoroughly, a house being a mere heap of white 
 stones, and not a ruin in the ordinary sense of the 
 word. It was curious to look at the veiled women, 
 with a wooden guard over their noses, and thick 
 cloth hanging from it, so that one really has no idea 
 of their faces — very different from the Turkish 
 yashmak ; but in this drive the palm-trees and the 
 flowers interested me most. There are now great 
 red-and-yellow bunches of dates hanging from the 
 palms, and the palings to the houses are laden with 
 lovely coloured flowers, and all sorts of shrubs the 
 same. The Poinsetia, which I have only seen _in 
 small plants, is a tree here, and very beautiful it is. 
 We lunched in a palace, and then got into the train 
 for Cairo. On the way we saw with interest the 
 picturesque figures that turn up at every moment, 
 one on a camel, another on a donkey, a child lying 
 on a buffalo's back, one little brown figure walking 
 calmly along shining with wet, and carrying its shirt 
 in its hand, tall thin upright Arabs in every sort of 
 coloured garment, black men in the whitest of tur- 
 bans and dressing-gowns, mysterious females in dark 
 blue, carrying infants who seem to dread the light 
 for their poor sore eyes — humanity is very curious 
 to look at here ; one never sees a commonplace speci- 
 men. 
 
i882] CAIRO 235 
 
 Then the wretched mud encampments of the fellahs, 
 far exceeding in wretchedness the worst of Irish 
 cabins, came constantly into view, while the scenery 
 in general was that of a flat plain — green at the 
 present moment after its recent immersion ; palm- 
 trees everywhere ; cotton plants, Indian corn, and 
 bamboos. Then we crossed the hill twice, and finally 
 got to Cairo at 6.30. 
 
 There we received in our special car (very like a 
 Pullman) Sir Edward Malet, Baker Pasha, and several 
 other people ; there was a crowd outside, and 
 carriages waiting, and we drove to this palace (Kasr- 
 el-Musa), which is lent us, where forty-six beds are 
 prepared for us, and every comfort in the way of 
 food. I am in a blue satin apartment, Nelly sleeps 
 under yellow satin curtains, and we have a sitting- 
 room between, to say nothing of dressing-rooms 
 supplied with powder and scent and every luxury. 
 There is a very large " saloon " in the centre of the 
 house, and Katie lives on the other side of it, but we 
 only stay here a few days. Sir E. Malet dined with 
 us, and, when he left we all went to bed at once, being 
 desperately tired. 
 
 The people seem to take great interest in D.'s 
 arrival — some think he is come to be a Viceroy, and 
 accept the giving up of the country quite calmly, and 
 others think he is to let Arabi out of prison. 
 
 Wednesday, Sth. — ^We went to take a little walk in 
 the garden, being tempted out by the lovely bushes 
 of jasmine, bushes of roses, and bushes of holly- 
 hocks, and we were rather amused when, having 
 started without Katie, a soldier came up to tell us 
 by signs that she was the other side of the house ; we 
 followed him all over the garden asking every one 
 where she was, until at last we met her with another 
 soldier also looking for us ; the one then went before, 
 and the other behind us, and we walked about thus, 
 
236 AN EGYPTIAN WEDDING [ch. iv 
 
 until, being unable to get rid of our guard, we came 
 in. D. went at ten to see the Khedive, and then His 
 Highness came to see us. He is a stout young man, 
 with good eyes and teeth, and is happily a great 
 talker. He speaks most fluent French, only says 
 " chose " whenever the proper word does not turn 
 up, and never stops to replace it. 
 
 In the afternoon we went to see our future house. 
 It is enormous, and has a lovely garden, but it is 
 very discouraging at first, for the splendid saloons 
 are quite destitute of tables, and much space is wasted 
 in large stone halls, which have to be lighted with 
 candles ! The bedrooms, too, are very un-English, 
 and I shall have to try and hire a lot of things for 
 them. 
 
 We went a very pretty drive by the Nile under 
 shady trees, and saw the East and the West mixed. 
 Palms, camels, the British soldier, the veiled woman, 
 and the Highland kilt — the latter looks very funny 
 on a donkey. 
 
 Thursday, gth. — I received a message inviting me 
 to the Palace this morning for part of a wedding (the 
 contract), so Katie and Nelly and I went there. At 
 the gate of the Harem we left our A.D.C., and pro- 
 ceedecf alone. The first sight was very like what I 
 have before described to you, a large hall with females 
 in every sort of queer dress wandering about, some 
 smoking, some standing with folded arms, and all 
 with very long trains to their dresses, and " pork- 
 pie " caps on their heads. After sitting amongst 
 them for a few moments, we were asked into a room, 
 where a majestic woman sat on a divan. It was an 
 appalling moment, for she took not the smallest 
 notice of me, and only acknowledged my bow by 
 waving me to a chair by her. There I sat down 
 meekly and gazed, first at her gigantic proportions 
 robed in magenta and silver stripes, wondered at the 
 
i882] THE BRIDE 237 
 
 fatness of her fingers, and replied (when at last she 
 said something in Arabic to me), " Je ne comprends 
 pas, madame." Then I looked at the throne pre- 
 pared for the bride, with its gold embroideries, 
 and silver tinsel spread everywhere, over plants, 
 fastened to the chairs, etc. After some time, a lady 
 who spoke French came, and a short conversation 
 passed between us ; but even then I did not find out 
 that the majestic lady by my side was the Khedive's 
 mother and not his wife, whom I afterwards saw. She 
 has a charming face, speaks French, and was as nice 
 as possible. She said, " We shall always pray for your 
 Queen, for she saved our lives " — and she told me 
 they were thirty-four hours at Alexandria without 
 a bit of food, and that her sister died during the bom- 
 bardment, when they had not even a bed to lay her on. 
 
 Princess Nazli I met too — she is an emancipated 
 Egyptian lady who sees everybody, and goes about 
 as she likes. All the ladies present were relations. 
 
 The bride was plain but magnificently dressed, and 
 bowed down with diamonds. She was brought in 
 and set upon a throne, where she sat for an hour — in 
 front of her on a cushion the bridegroom's presents 
 — diamond tiara, bracelet, etc., etc. While she sat 
 there, four girls in blue satin and silver danced ; part 
 of their performance was very pretty. They had 
 their hair down, and they swayed about and twisted 
 it over, and bent themselves in every direction, the 
 hair always following the motions of the body — this 
 part was very graceful, but the vibration part is less 
 so. They shake all over, and have a way of moving 
 the stomach which is quite inconceivable. It is as 
 though they had a machine to do it with, and I 
 can't think how the human figure can be made to 
 ** upheave " in the way they make it. It is extremely 
 curious and ugly. 
 
 When this was over the Princess threw handfuls 
 
238 THE WEDDING PARTY [ch. iv 
 
 of small gold coins about. Some of the ladies stuck 
 one of these on their foreheads. 
 
 After this there was more sitting still, the bride 
 having been led away, and, as there was music in the 
 outer hall, I was too glad to accept Princess Nazli's 
 invitation to go and hear it. Men closely screened off 
 were playing, and we squatted on a divan till lunch- 
 time, when the Khedive's mother sailed through the 
 room and we all followed. I sat on her right, and we 
 had a very good lunch, all the " sisters, the cousins, 
 and the aunts " being present. Arab music was being 
 dinned into our ears behind our chairs, so conversation 
 would have been difficult even had it been possible 
 for me to accost my neighbour. When we came out 
 of the dining-room we were amused to see the we«- 
 musicians brought in to play — they all were blind- 
 folded, so that they should not see the houris. 
 
 I must say most of the women are plain ; the younger 
 ones often have their hair dyed. They wear most 
 unbecoming headdresses, and have long strealy gowns. 
 A great many cut their hair quite short, and so few are 
 at all distinguished-looking that it is very difficult to 
 tell which are slaves and which ladies. I don't think 
 the reigning mother can come of an aristocratic family. 
 
 D. is paying visits all day, and I am interrupted 
 every time I sit down to write ; so I shall be very glad 
 when I am settled. 
 
 We all dined with Sir E. Malet. There were six- 
 teen people, and Nelly made her first appearance, and 
 was fortunate in having a talkative young officer next 
 her, to counterbalance the Prime Minister (Sherif 
 Pasha) on her other side. Lady Strangford was 
 there too ; she has a hospital here. Sir Auckland 
 Colvin, two Ministers, and Sir Edward's staff were 
 the other guests. 
 
 Friday, loth. — I had a long business morning. I 
 went to the house we are to have, and went over it 
 
i882] OUR HOUSE IN CAIRO 239 
 
 about four times trying to arrange it. Rather a 
 difficult matter, for, though it is enormous, it is wasted 
 in things one does not want. There is a synagogue 
 in it, but no pantry ; open courts and marble halls, 
 but a deficiency of bedrooms ; satin chairs and sofas 
 by the hundred, and not one table, big or little, in 
 any room. Then I found the owner thought of 
 shutting up about half of it, and I had to get room 
 after room from him by degrees, for, as he lends us 
 the house, one has to deal gently with him. Then 
 he said, " You won't mind the wardrobes being locked 
 up ? " I mildly suggested that we had just a few 
 things to put in them, but he went on to say, " You 
 know, you can see yourself in them just as well when 
 they are locked." Then downstairs there is very 
 little attempt at servants' offices, and I don't think 
 our butler and cook were as careful of his feelings as 
 I was I We are a difficult party to house, for D. has 
 to have study, secretary's room next to him, and a 
 waiting-room to receive people in. Then the Chancery, 
 Arthur's study, school-room, etc. — all these cut into 
 a house. I think, on the whole, we have arranged it 
 pretty well ; but we shan't get in for a week. 
 
 In the afternoon we took a little drive through old 
 Cairo and its very picturesque narrow streets, but our 
 coachman took us so fast that we did not see much, 
 and, as I began to wonder whether it was safe for 
 us to go through this part of the town alone, I did 
 not try to stop him. 
 
 Saturday, nth. — I went to the citadel to-day and 
 found when I got there that my visit was looked upon 
 as official. I had only thought of seeing the view 
 from it. The Commandant (Colonel Leith of the 
 Cameron Highlanders) and his A.D.C. (Mr. Baines) 
 took us all over barracks and hospital, and finally 
 gave us tea in their rooms. The hospital is in an 
 old palace, and there are fine large rooms ; but, alas ! 
 
240 THE BAZAARS [ch. iv 
 
 there are two hundred and ninety sick, and only four 
 nurses ! I shall try to go there often, and at least 
 may cheer up a few of the invalids by the sight of an 
 English face (the nurses are Italian Sisters). There 
 is one fine mosque and one old one to be seen up there, 
 and there is a very fine view over the town, with the 
 Pyramids in the distance. 
 
 Sunday, 1 2th. — ^This is the first day of a new century, 
 so all the men had to go and congratulate the Khedive. 
 We went to church. The clergyman is Dean 
 Butcher, who came here from China. Then I called 
 upon Lady Strangford at her hospital. She has forty 
 beds, and is very proud of her own superiority over 
 the Military Hospital ; but, as they say, " We have 
 fourteen hundred sick to provide for, while she is 
 able to cut her coat according to her cloth." In the 
 afternoon we walked, and in the evening three men 
 dined ; but there was nothing interesting to tell of this. 
 
 Monday, i^th. — ^We were to have gone to the 
 Pyramids to-day, but, although our lunch did start, 
 we put off the expedition as the mail had to be got 
 ready, and several of us felt a little " seedy." I 
 suppose one has to be acclimatised, for at present all 
 my Constantinople energy seems to have vanished, 
 and I am not up to doing much. Instead of this, 
 we drove to the bazaars, and walked about there. I 
 don't think they are as good as those in Constantinople, 
 but they may be more curious, and the street leading 
 to them is like an uncovered bazaar ; it is narrow, and 
 there are little shops on either side, small, square 
 places, in which the owner squats and carries on his 
 trade, his eyes close down over the work he has in hand. 
 " Eyes " — if he has two ; but it appears to me that it 
 is much more fashionable here to have only one. 
 
 We went also to see a real Egyptian house, owned 
 by the eldest descendant of the Prophet. He was 
 away, but his son received us, a very intelligent 
 
I . 
 
i882] AN INTERESTING HOUSE 241 
 
 boy, with charming manners. The house was most 
 interesting. We entered first into a courtyard, with 
 a very big tree growing close up to it. All the 
 windows have elaborate woodwork of a very pretty 
 pattern, and are lovely outside, but so successful in 
 keeping out the light that it was difficult to see 
 the ornamentation of the rooms from the inside. 
 These rooms were at long distances from each other ; 
 one either passed through a garden or a court to 
 get from one to the other. They were alike in shape — 
 long squares, and there were square recesses on every 
 side, the floors of which were raised above that of the 
 middle, while divans went round the sides of them. 
 Every bit of the place — floor, ceiling, walls — was orna- 
 mented either with old tiles, or mosaic, or painting ; 
 but, as I say, one could not see the details well. We 
 had had coffee in a court all roofed in with trellis-work 
 covered with vines. 
 
 Mr. Burton (the traveller) and Mr. L. Moore dined 
 with us. The former " held forth " all the time, and 
 was both interesting and amusing. 
 
 Tuesday, 14th. — I went to the hospital with Mrs. 
 FitzGerald, and took some flowers to the invalids. 
 It is such a hopelessly big place that we just kept 
 to the worst cases. Another day I will tell you more 
 about them. Afterwards we looked at the Artillery 
 Barracks, and had tea with Major Lloyd and Colonel 
 Minto Elliot, and saw an enormous goat, the regimental 
 pet. They have made the barracks so nice and 
 clean. The natives must be astonished to see people 
 take such trouble to paint and arrange for a limited 
 period. The filth there had been terrible; 10,000 
 Egyptian troops had occupied quarters which we 
 find small for a thousand. 
 
 Wednesday, i^th. — ^To-day we went to the Pyra- 
 mids. In addition to our own party, we had Mrs. 
 FitzGerald, Sir E. Malet, Major Ardagh, and Captain 
 
242 THE PYRAMIDS [ch. iv 
 
 Joliffe. We went in a large char-a-banc, with four 
 horses, one of the wheelers being ridden by a French 
 postilion, who, from his saddle, drove the other two. 
 We went very fast along a beautiful road with trees 
 on either side arching over it, and making a complete 
 shade. Of course we saw the Pyramids almost all 
 the way, but when I came really up to them, I could 
 only think of the ascent. To stand at the foot of a 
 wall 500 feet high which seemed simply to have a 
 rough surface, and think that one was expected to go 
 up it, took one's breath away ! — I felt I could not 
 do it, it was so infinitely worse than I had imagined ; 
 but D. wanted me to try, and Nelly was half-way 
 up, and the Arabs were buzzing round me, and making 
 me very nervous lest they should carry me up against 
 my will, so I said I would try if everybody swore 
 that I should be allowed to return if I did not like 
 it. So I started ; but every moment the feat appeared 
 to me more impossible, and when I imagined myself 
 climbing along narrow ledges of stone, two, three, four 
 and then five hundred feet from the ground the idea 
 became intolerable, and even when I got safely back to 
 the ground (having ascended only about twenty feet), 
 I had to make a great effort to recover myself from 
 the ef^ct produced upon my nerves. People tell you 
 about " great broad slabs " ; there may be some 
 occasionally, but I only know that, in my little bit, 
 I often had to walk sideways because there was no 
 room to go forwards, and that, looking upon it in cold 
 blood, I think it the most dangerous thing to under- 
 take without some real necessity or object. So I 
 returned to Katie, and we sat and watched the ascent 
 of the party, who looked like flies on a wall as they 
 clambered about. Afterwards we saw a very curious 
 temple, and the head of the Sphynx, and some tombs ; 
 but " are not all these things written in the Book of 
 Murray ? " One thing that made the view different 
 
 i 
 
i882] THE HOSPITAL 243 
 
 from usual was the water. At the present moment 
 the Pyramids rise almost from the sea. There is 
 water on every side, and very pretty it looks ; but the 
 floods will soon go down and the aspect of the place 
 be quite changed. I have not mentioned the prosaic 
 lunch, which, however, took place. 
 
 Thursday, i6th. — I went in the morning to see the 
 house which the owner hands over to us to-day. I 
 was delighted with it. It looks quite a different 
 thing now, and we shall be so glad to get into it. It 
 is palatial. Mr. Catawe has been so very kind and 
 thoughtful in arranging it for us, and has given us 
 the whole of it, besides the Lodge, where we set up 
 a laundry and stables. I must describe it when we 
 get there. 
 
 All the afternoon Nelly and I and Mrs. FitzGerald 
 (Lord Houghton's daughter) spent at the hospital. 
 We took flowers to the men, and wrote some letters 
 for them, and we talked to great numbers. From what 
 I observe, I think the character of the fever is getting 
 much milder ; none of the new arrivals in the hospital 
 seem to be bad, and the deaths are fewer ; but still, 
 going every other day, there are vacant beds to be 
 seen each time — vacant through death. 
 
 We dined at the FitzGeralds. They have such a 
 lovely little house ; the doors and all the woodwork 
 are Egyptian carving, and he has collected some very 
 pretty china, also oriental ; so everything matches, 
 down to the magnificent turbaned black, the " Chief 
 Butler." I sat between Mr. FitzGerald ^ and Sir Archi- 
 bald Alison, both very pleasant men, and Nelly between 
 " Russell of the Times " and Sir E, Malet. I thought 
 it was rather formidable for her, but she said she liked 
 it " awfully," and was only rather overcome at 
 taking precedence of Lady Alison, who has just 
 arrived. She has two daughters, one of whom she 
 
 ^ Sir Gerald FitzGerald. 
 
/ 
 
 244 OUR NEW HOUSE [ch. iv 
 
 is bringing out prematurely, just as I have done with 
 Nelly. Several people came in the evening, and Mr. 
 Harrington Foote sang some very amusing songs, 
 besides some sentimental ones, as did the other per- 
 formers . 
 
 Friday, November lyth. — I had a very long morning 
 of letter- writing, and began the afternoon by paying 
 visits ; it is very fatiguing making a quantity of tem- 
 porary acquaintances ; at 4.30 we went to tea with 
 Sir Edward Malet's staff, bachelors, who have a very 
 nice house here. 
 
 Saturday, iSth. — ^We left Kasr-el-Musa for good 
 this afternoon, and are very glad to be at home once 
 more. Of course we are not settled yet, but we have 
 many of our home comforts, and can do as we like, 
 and are in town instead of being some way from it. 
 There are three drawing-rooms opening into each other. 
 The first, being hideous and unnecessary, we have 
 handed over to Arthur to see people in. The second 
 is a dull room with windows only at one end. The 
 third, my boudoir, is gorgeous indeed ! True, the 
 colours are rather mixed, but one imagines it is 
 oriental splendour. The walls are green, with red 
 stars in the pattern ; the ceiling is a " ceiling of many 
 colours." There is a maroon velvet divan richly 
 embroidered in gold, a large assortment of bright blue 
 chairs, of sage-green ones, of old gold, of grey satin, 
 all also embroidered in gold — some of the woodwork 
 is red and green and blue and gold — the curtains are 
 grey satin (very pretty), the doors mauve, with 
 variegated patterns on the panels — there is one bright 
 crimson, and one pale blue chair, and in the centre 
 of the room a Meuble to hold three persons, each 
 seat being a different colour. There is a handsome 
 Persian carpet, and low seats of all these varied 
 colours scattered over it. The European element 
 has just been introduced into this sanctum, and an 
 
i882] ARRANGING THE HOUSE 245 
 
 irruption of photographs has now come out all over 
 it. An enormous writing-table has been introduced 
 into it, and two other tables suggest, by the things 
 on them, that the inhabitants sometimes read and 
 sometimes work. Out of this Nelly has a dear little 
 room with many oriental seats in quieter tints, and 
 only a very little magnificence introduced ; then 
 comes a very nice waiting-room in which we break- 
 fast, then D.'s study, and Mr.Macferran's room — and all 
 these open into an enormous hall, which opens into a 
 billiard-room, which opens on to an open court. 
 
 Upstairs you find yourself in another " Alhambra," 
 a great Moorish circular place on to which our bed- 
 rooms open — to say nothing of a big sitting-room in 
 yellow satin. I must leave Katie to describe to you 
 her gorgeous blue satin embroidered curtains, which 
 were intended for me ; but I took a lower place, as it 
 was much more convenient for me to be elsewhere. 
 In the garden we have a lake, a boat, and lovely 
 roses ! 
 
 We dined with the " Staff " in a thorough draught 
 (people will imagine it is warm here), and they danced 
 after, which did warm us up a little. 
 
 Sunday, igth. — I have not got acclimatised yet, and, 
 not feeling very well, I remained at home, and did not 
 stir out of the garden. Princess Nazli, a self-emanci- 
 pated cousin of the Khedive's, came to see me, and 
 was introduced to all my gentlemen. She speaks 
 'English very well, and is nice-looking. Sir Edward 
 Malet also came to see me. 
 
 We shall have three operas a week (the fourth is 
 Sunday), and I shall try being at home one night, 
 and see whether " drums " are successful in this place. 
 Mr. Lionel Moore (who speaks Arabic) arrived to help 
 D.'s Chancery. 
 
 Tuesday, 21st. — I went to see Princess Said, the 
 wife of an ex- Khedive, and the one who was in power 
 
246 VISIT TO PRINCESS SAID [ch. iv 
 
 when my mother-in-law was here. I had often heard 
 of her. She is a gaunt, but lady-Uke woman, and she 
 has very good manners. She received me in a court 
 outside the house, and conducted me into her sitting- 
 room, which had some pictures on the walls, and 
 which looked more comfortable than most of the 
 harems. We sat on a divan, and very long pipes 
 were brought, and then coffee, and Princess Nazli 
 talked and translated. Katie and Nelly were taken 
 round the house and gardens, and then we were 
 given a peculiar dish which is eaten on this day, the 
 tenth of the New Year. A silver table was brought 
 in, and then an enormous silver tray, round which 
 five of us sat. The stuff was in very large glass 
 bowls, and we had one each, though one would have 
 been enough for us all. Princess Nazli declared that 
 it was a Biblical dish, and that Noah made it out of 
 all the stores that remained in his ark at the end of 
 the Deluge ! It was rather good, and Shem, Ham, 
 and Japhet must have enjoyed it immensely. It was 
 like thick barley gruel full of pistachio nuts, and 
 walnuts , and almonds . After this , we wiped our fingers 
 on napkins heavy with gold embroidery, and sipped 
 something out of a golden cup, and took a stately 
 departure. Princess Nazli told us a great deal about 
 the amount of money wasted on weddings. Her 
 sister (whose wedding we were at the other day), 
 having been conveyed to the palace in a carriage of 
 the Khedive's, had to give the servants connected 
 therewith presents to the amount of ;£200 — that part 
 of the ceremony cost her ;^2,ooo, and the husband, 
 besides ;£8,ooo worth of diamonds to the bride, must 
 have spent a great deal on other presents ; ;£40,ooo 
 is the sort of sum a complete marriage may cost in 
 high life. The ladies are deeply in debt — one received 
 the other day forty cases of dresses from Paris. The 
 duty on them amounted to ;^2,ooo, and this lady's nurse 
 
i882] THE THEATRE 247 
 
 ran up a little bill of £10,000 for her own dresses. 
 Fancy Hallie doing such a thing — or even me ! and 
 there are no men to see all this finery ! The " Vice- 
 Reine's " sister who died during the troubles in 
 Alexandria left a debt of £150,000. She was twenty- 
 four years old. 
 
 Wednesday, 22nd. — ^We went to look at the theatre 
 here — a monument of the extravagance of Ismail. 
 It is curious to see the enormous stores of scenery 
 and properties. Scenery for every opera — and boxes 
 full of satins, and velvets, and gauzes, and other 
 materials to make new costumes, besides wardrobes 
 full of ready-made ones, a room full of wigs, a room 
 full of boots, one for armour, another for musical 
 instruments, a row of umbrellas, beginning with a 
 Japanese paper one, and ending with the veriest 
 Gamp ! — a room full of jewellery, and especially that 
 which was made for Alda and which is copied 
 from the antique, beautiful and too elaborate for the 
 stage. Then we saw the original score of Alda for 
 which the Khedive paid £8,000. 
 
 All the time we were there a rehearsal was going 
 on, and it was amusing to come in for a bit of it every 
 now and then. After seeing it all, we went on to 
 the hospital. Mr. Cartwright and Colonel Stuart 
 dined ; the latter is going to the Soudan at once. We 
 had a fearful night with mosquitoes — a blood-thirsty 
 army of them took possession of the curtains, and 
 candles had to be lighted, and finally a fumigation 
 made to get rid of them. 
 
 Thursday, 2T,rd. — ^This morning an A.D.C. from 
 the Vice-Reine was announced, and he appeared, fol- 
 lowed by a Hamal (porter), bearing on his head a tray 
 covered over with a velvet cloth embroidered with gold 
 and pearls ; under it were three silver dishes with the 
 barley gruel I have already described in them, and 
 small gold coins spread over each. This was a little 
 17 
 
248 DINNER AT THE ABDIN PALACE [ch. iv 
 
 attention from the Khedive's wife. The cover and 
 the dishes we returned, and I gave two " lots " of the 
 food and coins to the servants. 
 
 Monday, 2'jth. — I have been very busy doing the 
 invitations for a drum we are going to give next 
 Friday. It really was a labour, for people write their 
 names so badly, and one has to look them out in the 
 Army List, and, as they are single men (280 men 
 and 32 ladies !) they take twice as many cards for 
 the number as an ordinary party would. I was two 
 very long mornings over them. In the evening we 
 had a small dinner, the only remarkable thing being 
 that we sat in the drawing-room for the first time, 
 and found it simply gorgeous 1 there is a foot of gold 
 carving round each chair, and the furniture and 
 curtains are of a beautiful cherry colour ; it is lighted 
 by 180 candles, and is most brilliant. 
 
 Tuesday, 2Sth. — I had just got my invitations safely 
 out of the house when I received one for the same 
 night from the Headquarters Staff for a concert ; 
 but they must give way. We dined with the Khedive 
 at the Abdin Palace, all of us. There was a band 
 stationed outside, which played " God save the 
 Queen." as we arrived. A chamberlain took us in, 
 and conducted me to the top of the handsome stair- 
 case, where the Khedive met me. We had some time 
 to wait before dinner, but it was not at all stiff — • 
 everybody talked. Then the Khedive took me in, 
 and Sir E. Malet sat on the other side, having taken 
 Nelly in, and the Khedive discoursed to me upon the 
 evils of polygamy, and the education of his children, 
 the extravagance of his father, and the smallness 
 of his own suite (60 persons instead of 700 as in the 
 days of Ismail) ; and the table was beautifully arranged 
 with beds of flowers flat on the cloth, little Turkish 
 and English flags, and large silver candelabra ; the 
 food was very good, a band played outside, and it 
 
i882] AN ANECDOTE 249 
 
 was all very well done. I wore red satin and my 
 tiara ; Katie her wedding-dress and diamonds (she 
 looked very well). The Alison family were there 
 (the General took in his own daughter), and all the 
 Ministers. The Khedive proposed the Queen's health, 
 and D. his. 
 
 D. had a very busy day, but got through " a good 
 stroke of business." 
 
 Wednesday, 2gth. — We rode along a beautiful shady 
 road, and through the garden which belongs to the 
 exiled Prince Halim. There I saw large orange- 
 trees covered with fruit, smelling so sweet as one 
 passed them. 
 
 Lord and Lady Charles Beresford dined with us. 
 They had been shipwrecked on their way to India ; 
 he had behaved with his usual gallantry and decision, 
 and every one was saved — ^with their baggage. 
 
 He was very pleasant, and told many amusing 
 stories. One, of Sir H. Havelock Allan, who, during 
 the war, wore some nondescript uniform, and who in 
 consequence passed by a sentry without receiving 
 the proper salute. " Sir, I am a General in the 
 British Army. You must salute me whenever I pass 
 you." " All right, sir " — upon which Sir Henry went 
 up and down the road, and passed the man about 
 seven times, always receiving the salute due to him ; 
 then he went up to the man, and said, " Now 3''ou 
 need take no further notice of me for the rest of the 
 campaign." 
 
 Friday, December ist. — We went with the Fitz- 
 Geralds to see two houses built in the Egyptian style. 
 The first belonged to a Count St. Moritz, a penniless 
 Frenchman. He came here because he had no money, 
 was taken a fancy to by Ismail, and made some, 
 which he spent upon this really beautiful house. 
 He picked up old ceilings, doors, tiles, etc., and has 
 pieced them all in in a wonderful way. I never saw 
 
250 A BEAUTIFUL HOUSE [ch. iv 
 
 anything more lovely than the drawing-room, where i 
 highly decorated ceilings, stained windows, marble 
 dados, a dome through which stream many coloured 
 lights — all combine to make a sort of Arabian Nights 
 effect ; and outside a court surrounded on three sides 
 by the house, with picturesque carved staircases 
 and galleries, and the walls a mass of decoration — old 
 tiles let in, and a peculiar kind of work which has the , 
 effect of carving in the material of the walls. All 
 the doors leading into this court, and all through the 
 house, being carved wood inlaid with ivory, have a 
 richness and a beauty quite fairy-like ; of course the 
 house ruined the owner, and he wants to sell it. The 
 second house was the same sort of thing, but erred on 
 the side of darkness. There is so much carving out- 
 side the glass of the windows that very little light 
 can come in. The stained glass is all in a very deep 
 setting, and looks like jewels in the upper panes. 
 
 My big dinner and drum came off, and were most 
 successful ! We were twenty-seven at dinner, and 
 250 after. The uniforms looked very gay, and, as 
 people never do meet here, they found some pkasure 
 in the mere assembling of themselves together. 
 
 Tuesday, ^th. — Lord Charles Beresford has incited 
 the officers to get up what he calls a Gym- 
 khana — that is, a small race-meeting, and we 
 went to see the various performances. There were 
 donkey-races, which were spoilt by the enthusiasm of 
 the Arab donkey-boys, who would rush frantically 
 down the course urging on their animals with voice 
 and stick ; there were running races, tandem races, 
 and finally a " menagerie race," the runners being 
 anything but the usual running animals. There were 
 dogs, monkeys, turkeys, and several other birds, 
 and a camel. The start was very amusing — and a 
 dog won. The sand of the desert is rather trying on 
 these occasions ; one comes home quite covered with it. 
 
i882] SIGHT SEEING 251 
 
 Thursday, yth. — I went to see the Vice-Reine again. 
 She is a very nice, but silent woman, and I should 
 have found it hard to get through a long visit had it 
 not been for Princess Mansour, the Khedive's sister, 
 who was there. She talks the most fluent French, 
 and is the only woman I have met, here or in Turkey, 
 who has any tastes, or who seems to have any idea 
 of life as apart from cigarettes, divans, Arab music 
 if strictly kept, and French novels if more eman- 
 cipated. She has a collection of antiquities, likes 
 pictures, flowers, dogs, cares for the pretty arrange- 
 ments of her house, etc., etc. She began by giving 
 me a long account of the dangers they went through 
 at the beginning of the war, and then went on to 
 other subjects. I stayed an hour. 
 
 After this we went to look at lawn- tennis on Sir E. 
 Malet's ground, and in the evening to see Madame 
 Favart at the Opera. We took Lord and Lady 
 Alexander Kennedy with us. 
 
 Friday, Sth. — ^The well-known " Mr. Cook " invited us 
 to go an expedition, with a party of our friends. There 
 were forty-two of us altogether. We met on board 
 his steamer at 8 a.m., and started immediately ; he 
 gave us a breakfast, and then we went on deck and 
 looked about — ^but I will give you my ideas on Egyptian 
 scenery another time. About 10.30 we landed near 
 Memphis, and went on donkeys to Sakkarah. Happily 
 it was a little cloudy, so that the ride was very 
 amusing and pleasant, which would not have been 
 the case had we had the sun pouring down upon us 
 as we rode through the desert. We halted at 
 " Marriette's " house, having ridden there in an hour 
 and a half — sand, sand, everywhere, and yet he — 
 Mariette, lived here a whole year digging. It is a 
 good thing that tastes differ I We were first taken 
 to the Serapeum. It is the place in which the 
 sacred bulls were buried, and it is marvellous. You 
 
252 SIGHT SEEING [ch. iv 
 
 find yourself in a great subterranean place consisting 
 of a gallery, one a thousand feet long, with high arched 
 roofs, and on either side small " rooms " almost filled 
 by the enormous granite sarcophagi, each one of 
 which held the body of a bull. There are about 
 seventy in this place, and one's imagination stops 
 short when one even begins to think how any one 
 of these gigantic boxes can have been got into its 
 place. They are so big as to leave very little room 
 in the passage for any great number of men, and 
 they weigh about eighty tons. Cook had candles all 
 the way down the gallery, so we saw the great length 
 very well. 
 
 Next we visited the tomb of " Thi." Here the 
 pictures on the walls are most interesting ; they are 
 done in red, and are perfectly distinct — one sees 
 Ancient Egypt there, doing just what Modern Egypt 
 does now, using the same tools, and boats, carrying 
 water in the same bottles, and walking in the same 
 stately way with loads upon their heads. Mind and 
 body were exhausted after this, and a very good 
 lunch in Marriette's house was highly appreciated. m 
 
 We then mounted our donkeys again, and w£nt 
 over to the tomb of Onnas. This has only just been 
 discovered, and the opening of it has been paid for 
 by Cook. You descend a little way down a sliding 
 plane into the earth, and then you find j^ourself in a 
 room, the walls of which are entirely covered with 
 hieroglyphics, very neatly cut, perfectly fresh-looking, 
 and with a little colour still left upon them ; out of 
 this was another room in which was Onnas' coffin 
 — and this room was beautifully decorated, the 
 walls being of alabaster with colour in beautiful 
 patterns. The paint is scarcely destroyed at all, and 
 the colour is really most artistic. Our minds having 
 been opened wide by these sights, we rode our i 
 donkeys to the river, and returned to our steamer. 
 
i882] HAREM VISITS 253 
 
 I had a small donkey-boy who kept asking me at 
 intervals during the day, " How do you like your 
 donkey-boy ? " Of course I liked him immensely, 
 and proved my regard substantially ; but he was a 
 naughty little boy, and when he saw me safe on the 
 steamer, he cleverly went to Arthur and said I had 
 sent him for his " backsheesh " — and he got it too. 
 
 Monday, nth. — ^We paid two harem visits to-day, 
 one to Princess Hussein, and the other to Princess 
 Mansour. Both these houses are prettily and com- 
 fortably furnished, and look as though they were 
 inhabited by reasonable beings. Both the ladies 
 speak French well, and the visits were very pleasant. 
 The only difference between their arrangements and 
 our own, to a casual observer, is the presence of 
 slaves. When I say " slave," I hope you don't picture 
 to yourself a woolly negro in a scanty garment . One of 
 those I saw yesterday was most beautifully dressed in 
 white satin and silver, and sat in the room, though 
 she accompanied me to the outer door when I left. 
 The Princess Mansour's daughters were there, girls 
 of thirteen and fourteen, who have already taken the 
 yashmak. 
 
 I don't think I have told you about the opera. 
 The house is a pretty one, and we can go four times 
 a week if we wish to. We have seen Girofle Giro/la, 
 and Madame Favart. The company is not very good, 
 and I am sure we shall get very tired of them, but 
 it is very convenient, when one wants to be civil to 
 any one, to ask them to go with us to our box. 
 
 Tuesday, 12th. — ^The children arrived to-day, having 
 had a splendid passage. They stopped at several 
 places, and spent several hours at Smyrna. They 
 are full of stories of the voyage. Freddie made great 
 friends with a Turkish General, with whom he used 
 to converse in French. Victoria found one gentle- 
 man who conversed " interestingly," and another who 
 
254 BREAKFAST IN A HAREM [ch. iv 
 
 was a " fuminate man " (effeminate), and Hermie 
 described a little maid they had with them as " as- 
 tonished at everything — even down to the chain 
 which held the stopper in the wash-basin." When 
 they saw us standing on the steps to receive them, 
 they set up such shouts of joy that the soldiers 
 and calm Orientals in the neighbourhood were filled 
 with amazement. 
 
 The garden was first inspected, and a boat on a 
 very shallow pond gave great pleasure — and Victoria 
 very soon found her way into the water ; and then 
 came a tour of the house, and much satisfaction was 
 expressed at everything. 
 
 Monday, iSth. — ^We drove out to Abbasiyeh, where 
 General Earle took us over the hospital — a much 
 nicer one than that at the Citadel — and afterwards 
 gave us tea in the palace in which he lives. There 
 are such lovely satin brocades on the chairs — quite 
 the prettiest I have seen here. We could see from 
 a balcony the house where Arabi surrendered, and 
 the line of march by which General Drury-Lowe came 
 into Cairo. 
 
 Tuesday, igth. — Nelly and I were invited to break- 
 fast with the Princess Mansour. We had a long time 
 to wait for breakfast, and I began to wonder whether 
 I had mistaken the invitation. We sat by the 
 Princess, who happily is very amusing, and talked for 
 about an hour and a half, she smoking all the time, 
 and then, when the breakfast was ready, she told me 
 she was going to give it to us in the Turkish fashion. 
 On our way into the dining-room we washed our 
 fingers in silver basins, preparatory to eating with 
 them. 
 
 Lunch was laid on a very large silver tray, round 
 which we sat on chairs, as she said the cushions were 
 uncomfortable with our modern dresses. We had 
 napkins with gold embroidery at either end, and we 
 
i882] BREAKFAST IN A HAREM 255 
 
 began with soup. There was one blue velvet stand 
 in the centre of the tray on which each dish was 
 put in succession, and all round that were little 
 plates of salad, sardines, foie-gras, etc. The first 
 piece de resistance was a joint of mutton, and, after 
 helping me with a knife and fork, the Princess neatly 
 helped herself with her fingers ; it is not a very nice- 
 looking process, even when well done, and of course all 
 through the meal every one ought to dip about amongst 
 the various dishes, and no one should require a change 
 of plates and silver. Consequently the enormous 
 number of dishes which appeared one after the other 
 on the blue stand were far too many for me, who eat 
 in a European way. I can't remember them all, but 
 there came a dish of vegetables, then a fish, then a 
 sort of Yorkshire pudding with meat in it, then 
 ducks, then a sweet dish, then a turkey. Pilau, cold 
 meat, etc., etc., etc., and more sweets. At the end, 
 dessert, and a small bottle of champagne. When 
 we left the room we washed our fingers again, and 
 began once more to smoke and talk ; ices were brought, 
 and then coffee. 
 
 The Princess showed us her own room, and the way 
 she writes with a Turkish pen, and her garden, gave 
 us flowers, and told us much about her own ways. 
 She is a very clever woman, and has a great sense of 
 her own dignity. She keeps twenty white slaves, and 
 twenty black, and two semi-slaves, that is to say, 
 liberated slaves, who may sit in her presence, and eat 
 at her table. The dress of all these slaves — and they 
 dress very smartly — is arranged by her, and after 
 eight years' service she provides them with a fortune, 
 house, and husband, settles their disputes, divorces 
 them if necessary, and provides them with new 
 husbands if they become widows. Her baby of two 
 years old was brought down and made to make its 
 salaam, and then sent away because it would not 
 
256 EGYPTIAN LADIES [ch. iv 
 
 talk. Two gigantic dogs were exhibited, and the 
 two elder daughters sat there most of the time. 
 They got up whenever their mother did, and the 
 younger always rose when the elder did, though there 
 is only a year between them. 
 
 The Princess told me she arranged all her own 
 dresses and cloaks, and that she wore a big hat, and 
 then she went and dressed up in them to show me, 
 and was very funny with her fan, which she uses 
 when gentlemen look at her in her carriage ! I said 
 I had been commissioned to ask whether she did not 
 make an exception for an Ambassador ; but she said 
 No, if it was very important business, she could see 
 him, but with a curtain drawn between them or in 
 the presence of the eunuchs, and with her yashmak 
 on. The world says she does see people, though she 
 is by way of being very strict. 
 
 We were there from 1 1 to 2 .30, but were very much 
 amused with her ; the children are to be invited 
 some day. 
 
 When I came home another Egyptian lady was 
 announced, and I found it was the wife of one of 
 the rebels, bringing a petition. There was a veiled 
 lady with her, and an English woman to interpret. 
 The two Egyptians were dreadfully afraid of being 
 seen and I had to pull down my blinds, and several 
 times when there was a noise at the door, they gave 
 screams and covered up their faces, till I got quite 
 nervous myself. The wife said, that when she married 
 her husband, he had only a box of clothes of his 
 own, and that all the property was hers, and so she 
 begged that it might not be confiscated. She also 
 wanted leave to see her husband before he left, as 
 she is not going with him into exile. 
 
 I still go up to the hospital every other day nearly. 
 I think the general condition is better, but there are 
 an endless number of cases. To-day a man there gave 
 
i882] TEL-EL-KEBIR 257 
 
 me a most enthusiastic description of the chmate 
 of Glasgow, as compared with the very inferior one 
 of Egypt. 
 
 Thursday, 21st. — We go on an expedition to Tel-el- 
 Kebir ! We were a party of twenty-five, and we met 
 very punctually at 7.30 a.m. at the station. We had 
 over three hours in the train, and when we got to 
 our destination we had breakfast in one of Mr. Cook's 
 boats. We took down donkeys and horses with us, 
 and immediately after breakfast we mounted our 
 steeds. I had the very best donkey I ever saw, and 
 was quite able to keep up with the horses. 
 
 I had no idea of Tel-el-Kebir before seeing it, in 
 spite of all the pictures and descriptions, and yet it 
 seems a very easy thing to describe. 
 
 Imagine an immense plain without a shrub or tree, 
 or blade of grass on it, an ocean made of sand, but 
 rather shingly sand, so that it is hard, and not un- 
 pleasant to walk on. Then suppose you see, straight 
 across a part of it, a bank with a ditch on either side 
 of it, this bank being five miles long, and occasionally 
 curving out into a little battery for two or three 
 guns. These curves were full of Egyptian soldiers, 
 and all along the five miles of ditch stood soldiers 
 in single file, 28,000 altogether. This ditch, and these 
 curves, are very small objects in the midst of the 
 desert ; but the length is great, and the fact that 
 all this was made last August is extraordinary. What 
 a number of men must have been employed ! Though 
 comparatively easy to climb into, it was of course 
 less pleasant to fight your way up the bank, and we 
 had only 11,000 troops engaged. What strikes the 
 unmilitary mind is this : " Why should Arabi have 
 chosen this spot on the desert rather than any other ? 
 How should he know Sir Garnet would ever come 
 near him there ? — or, if he did, which way he would 
 come?" These questions can be answered, but it 
 
258 TEL-EL-KEBIR [ch. iv 
 
 looks just as if you were to place a man-of-war 
 somewhere in the middle of the Atlantic, and take 
 your chance of the enemy's coming near it. A great 
 stretch of desert on every side is all one sees, but 
 the canal and the railway had of course something to 
 do with Arabi's choice of this place. 
 
 The celebrated little battery which no one knew 
 of, and which, by the most extraordinary good luck, 
 our troops passed in safety, was the first place we 
 visited, and then we went all along the lines and were 
 pointed out the various points of interest, and we 
 picked up shells and balls, and the officers explained 
 everything to us, and the air of the desert was fresh 
 and delightful. The ride home was very hot, but I 
 liked it all very much. 
 
 The night march must have been most exciting. 
 Sir A. Alison told me it was most solemn ; he per- 
 sonally enjoyed it, but the slow, monotonous tread of 
 the men got on one General's nerves, and he turned 
 to Sir Archibald and said, " For heaven's sake, alter 
 the step or do something; this is dreadful," After 
 the intense stillness came a sudden burst of sound, 
 the roar of cannon, the shrieks of the men, and the 
 flashes of light, and, as day dawned, the battle was 
 at its height. To look at, — Tel-el- Kebir is a little 
 ditch dividing a great barren field in two, and yet 
 one comes away, after seeing it, with a much greater 
 opinion of the feat we performed there than one ever 
 had before. 
 
 Having imbibed all sorts of thrilling and heroic 
 ideas, we rode prosaically back to lunch on the 
 dahabiyeh, and then returned to our train. On our 
 way back we played games, and everybody was very 
 merry ; but in the evening we were very tired after 
 six hours' train, four hours' donkey ride, and two hours' 
 meals, and getting to the stations 1 
 
 Friday, 22nd. — I went to call on Princess Nazli and 
 
 I 
 
i882] A WET DAY IN CAIRO 259 
 
 was rather amused at being shown up into her bed- 
 room, and still more so when I found the Alisons 
 already there. Princess Fatma, the lady we saw 
 partly married when we first arrived, came in while 
 I was there. 
 
 The children went to see Princess Mansour's little 
 girls, and came home laden with the most magnifi- 
 cent bon-bon boxes. The visit was a great success, 
 and the Princess was delighted, because Freddy said 
 " he did not like Egypt." She made many jokes, 
 which were highly appreciated by her satellites, as 
 to his peculiarity in this respect, implying that the 
 English were rather too fond of it. 
 
 Sunday, 24th. — In the afternoon I bethought me 
 that I had never been to see the B.'s, who are living 
 in a dahabiyeh ; it is their own, and they have spent 
 twelve winters in it. I can imagine the pleasure 
 of living in a yacht, however small, and this is very 
 nice indeed as a yacht, but to pass one's time close 
 up against a mud bank in one, I can't conceive. And 
 this is what Mrs. B. does. Of course they generally go 
 up the Nile and pass from one mud-bank to another, 
 and he goes ashore and shoots, but she remains in 
 her shell, and the sand and the flies and the mosquitoes 
 come in upon her. I do think Egypt is far too much 
 idealised in people's thoughts : "to spend a winter 
 in Egypt " is always talked of with enthusiasm, but 
 there is a great deal of prose in the reality I think, 
 and Egypt in bad weather is truly dreary. A rich 
 soil, which is easily turned into the thickest and most 
 clinging of muds, palm-trees which should never be 
 seen out of a brilliant sunshine, villages which melt 
 in the rain, houses which let in the water, people 
 who dress in white garments, and give one a cold to 
 look at them, draggle-tailed roses, despondent orange- 
 trees — such are to be seen in Cairo on a pouring wet 
 day. 
 
26o CHRISTMAS DAY [ch. iv 
 
 Christmas Day. — Yes — 'tis too true — a horrid, wet, 
 cold, muddy Christmas Day. Church (the church 
 let in water) under difficulties, its decorations even 
 suffering from the depressing influences of such a 
 day — one's dress suffering terribly from getting in 
 and out of muddy carriages, and from the muddy 
 aisle — and no possibility of exchanging Christmas 
 greetings on the way home. The children kept up 
 their spirits wonderfully, and were very happy giving 
 presents. Unfortunately, the box containing ours 
 had not arrived, so we could only tell them what is 
 coming for them. When the rain ceased, I sent them 
 out for a donkey ride, and I went to see Princess Nazli 
 about an Oriental dress for Nelly (there is a fancy 
 ball coming off). Princess Mansour was there, and 
 was amusing as usual. She came to us later with a 
 pile of things, and Nelly looked so pretty done up 
 in a yashmak — the most becoming of veils. 
 
 In the afternoon I went up to the hospital, and 
 Nelly and I went round our friends there giving 
 them cards, and wishing them a " Happy New 
 Year," — a " Merry Christmas " was a mockery to 
 them. 
 
 Wednesday, 2'jth. — ^To-day there were Highland 
 Sports in the Abdin Place. The Khedive looked on 
 from a balcony, and invited me up there, but I 
 thought it much pleasanter in my carriage. It was 
 close to the games, and we were able to see everything 
 very well. The tugs-of-war were most exciting, 
 and the dancing very pretty. The day was fine, and 
 lots of people were there. 
 
 I was amused to find my friend the Princess Man- 
 sour kicking over the traces ! She was in a carriage 
 with Princess Nazli, and Sir A. Alison went up and 
 spoke to the latter, and was introduced to the former ! 
 a most fearful falling off from the strict seclusion in 
 which she is by way of remaining. I heard after- 
 
i882] ANECDOTE OF LORD STRATFORD 261 
 
 wards that she was immensely deHghted, and so 
 excited about all the acquaintances she made. 
 
 Friday y 2gth. — ^A race meeting. There were num- 
 bers of people there, and it really was very bright 
 and amusing. The gay Egyptian princesses were 
 again there, and I wished D. had come, but he said 
 he had too much to do, and he was in fact quite over- 
 worked by the evening. I went and talked to them, 
 and now they are full of looking on at the coming 
 fancy ball. We are expected to go in " oriental " 
 costume, but I am getting out of it by wearing a 
 black gown and a big crescent of diamonds on my 
 head, and calling myself the Turkish Crescent. 
 
 A cricket and lawn- tennis club has been started, 
 and we went to see the first games on Saturday. The 
 officers have got some grass to grow, but I fear it 
 will not last — for the moment it looks very nice. 
 Pipers walked about playing on it, but there have 
 been too many afternoon entertainments this week, 
 and so there were not many people there. 
 
 Mr. Lionel Moore dined with us. He was ten 
 years with Lord Stratford at Constantinople, and 
 when he is started on that subject he is most 
 amusing. The Great Eltchi seems to have kept 
 them all in a state of abject terror. He could only 
 remember one instance in which some one stood up 
 to him, and, as it ended in the Ambassador laughing 
 heartily, I will tell it to you, though it requires 
 some swearing. 
 
 A wretched Attache had copied out a despatch 
 seventy pages long, and when Lord Stratford was 
 reading it over he came to an " i " undotted. He 
 pointed angrily to the place, and got more and more 
 furious as the Attache was unable to see his mistake. 
 
 " D ■ your eyes, sir," he said, " don't you see itj? " 
 
 " D your Excellency's ' i's,' " was the reply — 
 
 and this did overcome Lord Stratford's wrath. He 
 
262 THE HOSPITAL [ch. iv 
 
 used to shake his fist in their faces, and Mr. Moore 
 looks upon him as such an awful being that he says 
 now he can't believe he is dead. He told us how a 
 rich Greek had ventured to vote for a Patriarch who 
 was not Lord Stratford's candidate; so he watched 
 for him in the street, and, walking up to the Greek, 
 seized him by the throat, and, pushing him up against 
 a wall, asked him why he had not voted as he (Lord 
 Stratford) wished, and so frightened the man that 
 he promised all that was required of him. 
 
 Sunday, 315^. — I went up to the hospital. The 
 nurse tells me the sick are coming in as fast as ever — 
 but they all come from one place. It is in the desert, 
 and supposed to be very healthy ; but it is very cold 
 at night (the men sleep in tents), and very hot in 
 the day, as there is no shade ; and, as the regiments 
 there are gradually coming wholesale into hospital, 
 I wonder they don't give up this camp. 
 
CHAPTER V 
 
 ENTERTAINMENTS 
 
 January is/, 1883. — ^The Khedive gave a sort of 
 " school feast " at the school his sons attend, and 
 we all went. It was rather a '* hugger-mugger " 
 entertainment, the ground not being well kept, and 
 people crushing in upon the performers. 
 
 First we went into a fine tent, where the heir- 
 apparent received us. He is a pretty little man 
 (children don't look like children here, with their 
 uniform coats and fezes) ; then we went all over the 
 school, and one boy read an address to M. le Comte, 
 and Madame la Comtesse ; but, as M, le Comte had not 
 arrived, I had to bear the brunt of it. After this we 
 returned to the tent, and saw some very feeble 
 juggling, some very poor performing monkeys, and an 
 equally poor tight -rope dancer, but we left her before 
 she had performed her great feat, which was a very 
 nasty one to see. She cut the throat of a lamb 
 while on the rope, cooked bits of it, and, hacking out 
 pieces, threw them about. Instead of this, we went 
 to see some horses which were being shown off in 
 the square, " Wild Arab horsemen " on them. I 
 believe they were good, but there was not half enough 
 room to move them about. The Khedive himself did 
 not appear. 
 
 In the evening there was the masked ball, with 
 dental dresses. I don't think the masked part 
 mused us very much, as we don't know people here 
 
 ell enough ; but it was a pretty sight, and the men's 
 18 263 
 
264 THE HOLY CARPET [ch. v. 
 
 dresses were particularly handsome. Nelly looked 
 very well in her Albanian dress, and my big crescent 
 was most successful. I think the fact of the dresses 
 being all oriental gave more unity to the spectacle 
 and made it handsomer than when all sorts of dresses 
 are mixed together ; and even the commonest Eastern 
 dress is picturesque. 
 
 Mr. Bland had a magnificent red-and-gold dress, 
 and Arthur was lent something handsome ; but we 
 don't know what it was supposed to be. 
 
 We have no more evening gaieties in prospect just 
 now, and I am glad of it. 
 
 January 4th. — I have just returned from seeing 
 the return of the Holy Carpet from Mecca. 
 
 Sir E. Malet and Mr. Portal came to breakfast 
 with us, and all our gentlemen were in their uniforms, 
 looking very smart. The Khedive sent a victoria in 
 which D. and Sir E. Malet went, attended by an 
 escort and followed by their suites. Katie and 
 Nelly and I went in our own carriage, and Miss S. 
 and the children followed. We went to the Harem, 
 and were received most graciously by the Vice- 
 Reine. Even the " Princesse Mere " was civil to-day, 
 and had enlarged the holes in the screen that we 
 might see better. We looked down upon our hus- 
 bands, and the state officials, and they formed a 
 very magnificent group — red uniforms, dark blue and 
 grey uniforms, with much gold embroidery, and some 
 very beautifully dressed ecclesiastics in purple robes 
 and white turbans. Beyond them was a great crowd 
 of natives, and lines of white gendarmes, blue native 
 soldiers, and here and there masses of our own well- 
 known red. 
 
 The Khedive's turn-out was really lovely, and the 
 colouring of his procession, as it approached, was the ' 
 prettiest thing I have ever seen. The advance guard 
 had blue and gold richly embroidered jackets, loose 
 
1883] THE HOLY CARPET 265 
 
 red trousers and red fez, the body guard have a 
 blue uniform with red trimmings, and his carriage 
 had four white horses ridden by postilHons in red 
 and gold. Inside the carriage the Khedive, Prime 
 Minister and suite, displayed a vast expanse of gold 
 embroidery on their uniforms, and the red livery 
 was repeated behind. 
 
 When His Highness reached the afore-mentioned 
 group of Magnificences, he shook hands with D. and 
 others, and then retired to a throne which was under 
 cover, but open to the front, and sat down between 
 D. and Sir E. Malet, and in a stately row sat the 
 sheiks in their beautiful clothes. When the pro- 
 cession from Mecca came in sight the cannon fired, 
 and all the bands began to play at once, and then one 
 saw a camel with a tottering howdah on its back 
 approaching, and, when near, one could see that it 
 was all made of splendid embroidery. There were 
 about six camels all " clothed." On the first sat a 
 turbaned individual carrying a flag, on the second 
 was a very fat man naked to the waist, with grey 
 hair and beard, his head turning about in a state 
 of ecstatic enthusiasm (so I suppose). He is said 
 not to have eaten for forty days, and is extraordi- 
 narily holy. After the camels came some travel- 
 stained white soldiers. They marched four times 
 round the square, and then approached the Khedive, 
 who kissed the tassels of the howdah, and pressed 
 them to his heart and forehead, as did the sheiks. 
 As the procession passed on, we saw the people in 
 the crowd rushing out to touch the howdah with their 
 hands. 
 
 When this procession left Cairo, Arabi was in the 
 height of his popularity, and received an ovation 
 from the people, who tore off his gloves to keep bits 
 of them. 
 
 Our children were somewhere with the young 
 
266 THE HOLY CARPET [ch. v 
 
 Princes, and they say they got on very well and 
 talked, but I am always alarmed when they are in 
 an Eastern house, as the3i' have not the oriental calm 
 of the smallest child here. Victoria says the Princes 
 were rather hard to talk to, as they never began 
 anything, and she felt the difficulties of continued 
 effort. She inquired " if they were afraid of thunder 
 and lightning," and they asked each other's names. 
 On hearing those of the Princes, my children said, 
 " How funny I " but on learning theirs, the Princes 
 said, " How good 1 " 
 
 I have been learning some particulars as to all we 
 saw to-day. It appears that the Carpet is not there 
 at all, and the howdah is supposed to cover the 
 wife of the greatest sheik, but I think every one is 
 very vague about it. The half-naked man is a mys- 
 terious individual who has attended the Carpet- 
 procession for fifteen years ; he always leaves Cairo 
 with it, enters Mecca and leaves Mecca in its com- 
 pany and re-enters Cairo ; but in the interval, and 
 during the journey, he disappears, and it is not 
 known where he lives, or how he gets to these places. 
 The soldiers say he is very much thinner now than 
 when he started. 
 
 January 2gth. — ^A long interval has elapsed since I 
 wrote anything, and I must just put down quickly 
 what has happened ; it has not been a cheerful 
 month for our Embassy anywhere . At Constantinople 
 poor Mr. Sartoris died of typhoid fever, to the great 
 grief of us all, and since then Mrs. Goschen, of whom 
 I am very fond, has had a most terrible illness, was 
 completely given over, and must still be in a very 
 critical condition. 
 
 Here, on the 7th, I retired to bed with a slight 
 attack of typhoid fever, from which I have recovered, 
 and am now getting up my strength. 
 
 On the 9th Katie fell ill of the same. 
 
i883] TOURISTS 267 
 
 A housemaid also got the fever, and Freddy had 
 jaundice. D. was dreadfully busy, and it was all 
 very hard upon him. To the rest of the household 
 it was very dreary and miserable, I am told. There 
 were, however, some gaieties going on. D. had to 
 ask a good many people to dinner, and at these Nelly 
 did the honours very nicely. 
 
 Now we are very quiet. I take a little drive, but 
 have not seen many people yet, and am not up to 
 much exertion. 
 
 February 4th to 12th. — ^There have been a great 
 many tourists about and we have seen something of 
 th-^m all. 
 
 The Duke of Sutherland is staying with us, the 
 Balds have been to dinner, theatre, tea, and drum. 
 Lady Brassey has dined, and I took her to a harem. 
 Mr. Chaplin came with the Duke, and always dined 
 with us, and became a great favourite with every one. 
 Mr. Maxwell, who stayed with us in Canada, is also 
 here, and we see a good deal of him. Then there 
 are stray people. Sir Arnold Kemball, Sir Henry 
 Green, etc., and Lord Napier of Magdala is staying 
 here, but is ill. 
 
 We have had some strangers at dinner every day, 
 and I must now try to tell you a little more in detail 
 what we have done. 
 
 Thursday we dined with the Alisons, the dinner 
 being given for Lord Napier, but he could not come. 
 I got very tired with this first outing, and so next 
 day, as I was to have a dinner and drum myself, I 
 stayed quiet, and borrowed a chaperon for Nelly to 
 go to the races. She had a terrible fate there, for 
 the Khedive put her in my place on a throne beside 
 him on a dais, with no one else (which would have 
 been trying even for me), and she could not escape 
 for more than an hour, when D., coming up to speak 
 to His Highness, she " bolted." 
 
268 EXPEDITIONS [ch. v 
 
 We had 26 at dinner, and a drum of 120. The 
 house looked very pretty, and the party was suc- 
 cessful. 
 
 Saturday, February loth. — ^We had a very amusing 
 afternoon looking at the sports of the new Egyptian 
 Army. The Khedive would not come lest they should 
 not succeed 1 but every one else did, and the men got 
 very excited over the tug-of-war, but they ran badly. 
 There was a race with a big water jump, and I was 
 surprised to see about fifty start, and also to see that 
 they did not seem to mind how late they got off, 
 or how far behind they were ; we heard afterwards 
 that they thought every man would be paid. 
 
 Monday, 12th. — Now that Mr. Hardinge has come 
 to stay with us, we are doing more sight-seeing, 
 and had such a nice day at the Pyramids. Three 
 gentlemen rode, and the rest of us went in carriages, 
 taking lunch with us. The children. Miss S., and 
 Mr. Hardinge went up, and Miss S. nearly fainted 
 on the way I but in spite of this, they all enjoyed 
 it very much, and when they had had a good lunch 
 they explored the inside of the Pyramid — and then 
 rode on camels, and went to see the sights of the 
 place, while I sat down and watched a wonderful feat 
 being performed. 
 
 An English lady went up the Pyramid entirely 
 alone, by a route of her own choice, and in a riding 
 habit too I She did it quite quickly and easily ; her 
 brother tried to follow, but we had to send help to 
 him. 
 
 Wednesday, 14th. — ^We went to Heluan, an oasis 
 in the desert, where we stayed with Greneral and Mrs. 
 Arbuthnot, and where I presented the Tel-el-Kebir 
 medals to the officers and men of the 19th Hussars. 
 The " oasis " is not an ideal one. It is a great sandy 
 plain, with a village of hideous square villas, and some 
 sulphur baths which smell strong. It is very cold, 
 
1883] HELUAN 269 
 
 and we shivered as we found our bedrooms all opened 
 on to an open court. We arrived in time for lunch, 
 and afterwards sat out till three, when the ceremony 
 was to begin, and when such a horrid sand-storm 
 came on that tents were blown down, and all the 
 preparations had to be " counter-marched," so that 
 our clothes, and not our eyes, should suffer. I handed 
 out 400 medals as quickly as I could, and then D. 
 made a nice little speech, and a little rain came on 
 but cleared up directly everything was over. 
 
 The Hussars' Christmas cake arrived this day, 
 and I cut it open with a sword, but I shall never get 
 over having not thought of giving the men a " drink " 
 to go with it I We had a very nice dinner-party 
 and games in the evening, and then, covered over 
 with all the rugs and fur cloaks we could find, we 
 managed to sleep comfortably. 
 
 Thursday, isth. — ^We went round the camps on 
 donkeys — the prettiest was that of the 7th Dragoon 
 Guards — and then on by train to picnic in some 
 caves. We had a mile to go in an artillery wagon, 
 and then we had our lunch in an enormous cave. 
 They are innumerable, and open one into the other. 
 They are quarries from which the stones for the 
 Pyramids were taken, and are very wonderful places. 
 As I am not very good at clambering about just now, 
 I did not explore much, but sat under a rock and 
 enjoyed the sunshine, the desert air, and the view of 
 the Pyramids. We kept the train waiting a quarter 
 of an hour while we made tea, and then came home 
 in it. 
 
 Friday, 22,rd. — I sat over an almanack all the 
 morning making out a programme of all that has to 
 be done within the next few weeks. I am getting 
 up three entertainments for charity, and the arrange- 
 ments take time. First there is to be a charity ball 
 for the poor of Alexandria, and I am going to have 
 
270 THE BOULAK MUSEUM [ch. v 
 
 some theatricals at home for the same object. Then 
 I have a garden fete for the church, which also gives 
 a deal of trouble, as we are to have a number of 
 amateur entertainments at it. 
 
 Then there is a dinner to the Khedive, and a big 
 drum, and we were going to give Nelly a dance ; but 
 the floors of our house won't stand it 1 
 
 In the afternoon I drove, and we had a few people at 
 dinner, amongst them " Brugsch Bey," the Savant. 
 
 Saturday, ijth. — Even aided by Nelly and Katie 
 I spent a good three hours in writing invitations for 
 a big drum next Friday. I meant to have this the 
 end of all things, but thought that by having it first, 
 and by asking every one, I might help my charities I 
 (that's diplomacy). 
 
 In the afternoon there was the end of a great lawn 
 tennis tournament which ended in our Embassy 
 beating (by implication) the whole of the Army. 
 The FitzGeralds and a Canadian traveller dined and 
 we went to the opera. 
 
 Sunday, iSth. — ^This afternoon we went to the 
 Boulak Museum, and made the personal acquaintance 
 of many defunct kings and queens. 
 
 It is a most interesting collection, and there is- a 
 wooden statue — thousands of years old, with much 
 expression in its face. The eyes are wonderfully done, 
 'and look like the best glass. One visit is not enough, 
 and, as Murray and Baedeker would find me out if I 
 made any mistakes, I will not attempt to tell you 
 who anybody was, to wit — a husband and wife 
 sitting side by side, lately extracted from some 
 tomb, she in a pure white garment, he with his clothes 
 more highly coloured, both looking so new, and with 
 such life-like expressions in their faces. Then a 
 queen-mummy, with an infant princess at her feet, 
 she having died in child-birth, golden jewellery, and 
 of course hieroglyphics, sphinx, and the usual Egyp- 
 
i883l PREPARATIONS FOR A CHARITY BALL 271 
 
 tian curiosities to any amount. We were shown every 
 thing by Brugsch Bey, Hermie was much struck with 
 him, and with his accounts of how he found out this 
 and that, and said to me she thought he would have 
 made an excellent detective. The Nubar Pashas 
 dined with us. 
 
 Monday, igth. — Consulted Nowell about ball supper 
 (charity ball, got up by me for sufferers at Alexandria), 
 and about supplies for the tea at the garden f^te in aid 
 of church fund. Wrote notes and letters till twelve, 
 when Mrs. B. came by appointment, principally about 
 last-named entertainment. More writing till lunch. 
 
 At three, drove to Ismailia Palace, and saw the 
 Vice-Reine to ask her to look on at the ball from her 
 box, and to ask the other harems to take boxes, as 
 we propose to arrange the whole of the grand tier 
 for them, with lace curtains in front. 
 
 Home for tea, when General Earle came in after play- 
 ing lawn-tennis with D. Then Colonel Grenfell came 
 about putting up my stage. Sir E. Malet followed 
 with M. Sinadino and M. Ornstein (the ball 
 working-committee), and we went into every sort 
 of detail as to decorations, supper, tickets, prices, 
 etc. These were all there together, and all wanted 
 advice or sympathy, or at least my attention. They 
 only left at a quarter to seven, and we had people to 
 dine at seven in order to go to a benefit at the theatre, 
 so I dressed at my usual speed, dined, and then went 
 to the opera till ten, when Nelly came for me to drag 
 me to a dance. I had promised to let her stay for 
 the cotillion, and so I did not get home till a quarter 
 to three this morning. 
 
 Tuesday, 20th, — I have " passed the list of lady 
 patronesses," signed all the letters asking for their 
 patronage, written to Madame Martino Bey to come 
 and see me about the harem boxes ; to Lady Alison 
 to ask her to get up a reel of twelve couples ; to 
 
272 THE CAIRO BAZAAR [ch. v. 
 
 Madame della Sala to ask her to choose bows for the 
 stewards and patronesses ; to Sir Edward Malet about 
 programmes, champagne cup, state quadrille, and gas, 
 and it is mail day to boot ! 
 
 Another thing that takes a little time is, a sale 
 of Turkish work. I have sold a hundred-pounds* 
 worth here, and I have to write orders, and make 
 out bills, and receive and send the money, which 
 all entails writing. I expect to be worn to a thread 
 these next three weeks, and then I must try to rest. 
 The Duke of Sutherland left us to-day. 
 
 After lunch we rode on donkeys to the bazaars. 
 Does it not sound a little primitive for the English 
 Ambassadress to be able to ride through the best 
 streets of Cairo in the afternoon on a donkey? 
 
 Our visit was to the " gold and silver bazaar," and 
 we bought several things after much bargaining, 
 and then had it proved to us that we had paid the 
 man well, by his presenting four of us with a bracelet 
 each as " backsheesh." 
 
 He was asleep when we reached his shop, so we 
 woke him up, and in the middle of our transactions 
 he got up, produced basin and water, and washed 
 his face to awake himself more thoroughly, and then 
 proceeded to business. He also gave us all coffee. 
 I had not realised the fatigue of a donkey ride, and 
 was dreadfully tired when I got in, and scarcely 
 up to the number of visitors who came, especially as 
 they came uncomfortably, ladies who don't speak to 
 each other arriving together. I also had two on 
 business. The Earles and Villiers Stuart dined, and 
 went on to the opera with D. 
 
 Wednesday, 21st. — ^The medals were given to the 
 regiment of Cameron Highlanders, and the officers 
 asked us to lunch. D. afterwards went to see the 
 New Army drilled, and he dined with the 60th ; so he 
 had a very military day. 
 
1883] THE CHARITY BALL 273 
 
 All my time is taken up with my ball, thanking 
 for money, and sending tickets. The Khedive sent 
 me ;^ioo, his grandmother ;^ioo, and an Alexandria 
 merchant ;^ioo ; then I have had twenties, thirties, 
 and forties from different people. 
 
 I also have on hand some rehearsals, and many 
 other things, people to dine nearly every night, etc., 
 and so my journal has collapsed ; but to-day, March 5th, 
 I will try and pick up a few of the threads, but instead 
 of doing it by days, I will do it by subjects. 
 
 The ball which took place the ist of March is the 
 first. 
 
 History of the Great Charity Ball 
 
 One morning, at breakfast, D. said, " I think we 
 ought to do something for Alexandria ; get up a 
 charity ball, for instance." 
 
 Says I, '* Do you really mean it ? fbr if you do — I'll 
 undertake it." 
 
 He replied in the affirmative, so I began the propa- 
 ganda. People here are awfully afraid of not being 
 select, and tremble at the idea of being in the room 
 with the un-smart ; so I had to take them gently. 
 But by making all the most fearful of them lady 
 patronesses, and by endowing them with tickets to 
 be disposed of, I gradually led them up to the idea of 
 admitting the second class Cairo-enes, and, in their 
 desire to sell, they soon came round to my views. 
 We met, became enthusiastic, and arranged to 
 decorate ourselves with " Grands Cordons " on the 
 occasion — this idea gave great delight. 
 
 Then, for days and days, I wrote and wrote note after 
 note, principally thanking for money received. I 
 never asked any one to take a ticket, and I have been 
 sent over ;£900 in cash. 
 
 The great day came at last. Everything had been 
 
274 THE CHARITY BALL [ch. v 
 
 arranged by two gentlemen, a M. Ornstein and a 
 M. Sinadino — the latter full of tact, and a wonderful 
 organiser. These two qualities of his made the bail 
 a success ; the first gave it a private house character, 
 and the second made every arrangement go smoothly. 
 The theatre is a very pretty one, and that night it 
 looked lovely. The pit and the stage were all thrown 
 into one, the stage became a very large garden, with 
 walks and kiosk (for the bands), and refreshment 
 places, and a fountain of real water lighted with 
 electric lights. The Khedive's box had the front 
 taken out of it, and a dais projected from it, so that 
 he could walk in and out, and have people to sit 
 there. 
 
 All the lower boxes were open, and served as seats 
 in the ballroom, but, being raised, people saw very 
 well from them, and were themselves most ornamental. 
 The next row of boxes were veiled with white muslin 
 curtains, behind which the harems sat, and one 
 could see holes being torn in the curtains, and faces 
 peeping out from the sides. 
 
 Above these came ordinary spectators, and in 
 the gallery our British soldier in red, an invited guest, 
 looked very well, and finished the effect right up to 
 the roof. The uniforms (kilts especially), the ladies' 
 dresses, the bright-coloured sashes of the patronesses, 
 the scarves of the young ladies who were to dance the 
 reel, made the floor a pretty sight. 
 
 I received the Khedive, and kindly " excused " 
 his dancing with me, and condescended to his cousin 
 Prince Osman instead, and I went through a Lancers 
 with Sir E. Malet, and that was the end of my dancing ; 
 but I looked after Nelly, who looked very nice, and 
 who wore a beautiful silk scarf — ^for she danced the 
 reel — and I went up to the harem boxes, and visited 
 several. The Vice-Reine was much amused, and 
 looked so fat and comfortable and good-natured, 
 
1883] THE CHARITY BALL 275 
 
 that I ought not afterwards to have felt odd when I 
 talked to the Khedive, and knew her eye was upon 
 me ; but it has a curious effect to talk to a man with 
 his wife peeping through a curtain at you, and natur- 
 ally thinking (as all these shut-up ladies do), that the 
 very fact is extraordinary ! 
 
 One band played for dancing, and another played 
 between, and a third played in the supper-room. 
 That supper, too, was beautiful 1 I am grieved to say 
 we were cheated over that — ^it was all given to us, 
 and I decreed that we should charge ten francs a 
 head for it, light refreshments being gratis. Well, 
 400 people took supper tickets, and 1,000 people 
 supped ! still it made £100, and there was no dis- 
 cussion or fuss, and it helped to add to the good- 
 humour and the general success of the ball. The 
 reel of twelve couples was greatly appreciated, and 
 the natives tried to encore it ! It was very pretty, 
 and I looked on at it from the Khedive's dais, and had 
 the pleasure of seeing that he acknowledged all his 
 errors with regard to this ball. He had always said 
 we should get money, but that no one would go to it ! 
 I believe we shall be able to pay ;£2,ooo to the charity. 
 
 We dined with Cherif Pasha (the Prime Minister). 
 He gave me pleasure by a most delicate attention ; 
 at my place there was my name on a card, in 
 the corner of which was a lovely little drawing of 
 our house at Therapia ! was that not nice of him ? 
 But oh ! we were cold 1 I rubbed my hands under 
 the table to warm them, and suppressed my shivers, 
 and felt thankful that my fever was over. You 
 may imagine how D. felt ! We drank to Queen and 
 Khedive, and got away early, and, once home, sat on 
 the hob, and had jorums of hot sal-volatile. 
 
 Another thing that takes my time is the arrange- 
 ment of a garden f^te for the church — but I have now 
 put it off for a week — and the preparation of some 
 
276 THE BALL ACCOUNTS [ch. v 
 
 theatricals. It is very hard to get in rehearsals at 
 all here ; there is always something to prevent some- 
 body's coming, and the stage is unfinished, so that 
 one does not know what space one has to use. How- 
 ever, now the Khedive is invited to come, and they 
 must be got ready. 
 
 In the way of tourists and visitors, Hugh Graham 
 came with another engineer to see about a new canal ; 
 but the route they proposed to take was declared 
 dangerous, and so they had to give it up. Then Lord 
 Alfred Paget, Captain and Mrs. Paget, Mr. Oliphant, 
 Lord Napier of Magdala, etc., etc., are here, and they 
 all dine with us ; so that lately we have never been 
 less than twelve, and the cook is grumbling. 
 
 Monday, March $th. — I asked all the patronesses of 
 the ball to tea, so that we might settle the accounts, 
 and see how much we had made. 
 
 You may imagine my surprise and pleasure when 
 the sum was announced — ^£2,750 sterling. We shall 
 be able to send ^{^2,350 to the charity, after every 
 expense is paid. 
 
 I think it is perfectly wonderful to produce such a 
 sum in this small place. 
 
 The mother of Ismail (the poor old paratysed Prin- 
 cess) sent me some Egyptian stuff, and two lovely 
 coffee cups set in diamonds. I had to return the 
 latter, and I hope the poor old lady will understand 
 that I was obliged to do so ; it is a difficult idea for 
 the oriental mind to digest. I have, however, got 
 one present from a lady who was a friend of D.'s 
 mother, and who has given me an ornament of her 
 own, with her portrait at the back. She has no 
 political relations, and, as she would have been terribly 
 hurt had it been refused, I was permitted to take it 
 — and you shall see it some day 1 
 
 Thursday, Sth. — I paid my visit with the children 
 to Princess Hassan ; mine were delighted with hers, 
 
1883] THE KHEDIVE'S GRANDMOTHER 277 
 
 " they are so nice and rompy " — and they are all to 
 come to tea here on Saturday. The Princess has 
 lived like a widow during her husband's absence, and 
 is more shut up than most Egyptian ladies. Lord 
 de Grey and the Arbuthnots dined with us, and we 
 went to see Boccaccio at the theatre. 
 
 We had our play last night. Two short pieces, 
 one of them written b}?" Sir E. Malet. He and I acted 
 it. There were 160 people at it and the Khedive. 
 There was a guard of honour of 100 Highlanders 
 for him, and a band, and D. said that our steps, with 
 all these people on them, made a beautiful sight. The 
 Khedive was immensely delighted with everything, 
 and enjoyed his outing thoroughly. He assured me, 
 with beaming face, that it was so " chose," and that 
 he felt " chose," and his " choses " came in so con- 
 tinually that I was only able to make out the point 
 of all he said, which was that he was very pleased. 
 I send you a programme. 
 
 In the afternoon I went to see his grandmother, 
 Ismail's mother — a dear old lady with charming 
 manners. She is paralysed, and is very unhappy of 
 course, having lost son and fortune and position 
 entirely. She lives in a gigantic palace, occupying 
 two rooms in it, and has not been out of the doors 
 for four years. She seemed very pleased to see me. 
 I suppose no one pays her any attention now, and 
 when her son was Khedive her position was the 
 highest in the land. She said she would come and 
 see me were she able — and the Princess Mansour, 
 who was translating, said, " Why, she's more civilised 
 than I." 
 
 Friday, i6th. — Much preparation for garden fete 
 to-morrow, and a ball at the Citadel. How nice a 
 rest on the Nile will be 1 
 
 Saturday, lyth, — ^The day of my garden fete in aid 
 of the church funds. The moment I got up I looked 
 
278 GARDEN FETE [ch. v 
 
 out of my windows, and saw a lovely sunshiny day ; 
 the garden looking most fair-like, with its tents, 
 marquees, and placards. 
 
 At the far end of it there is a grotto in which a 
 real live general sat all day dressed up as a hermit, 
 with a small table and a pack of cards before him, 
 telling fortunes. On the top of this cave was a lady 
 with a weighing machine, and a very prettily arranged 
 tent, in which a girl, in an Egyptian costume, sold 
 various things, and just below (belonging to the 
 same party), was a tent, containing the " Rhoda 
 Mystery." This was on the same principle as the 
 " Sphinx," and looked like a detached head. The 
 face was pretty, and this entertainment was most 
 successful. I am going to tell you all the entertain- 
 ments provided first, and then how each went off. 
 The next thing was an island, on which Sir Edward 
 Malet had a mystery ! He professed to show you 
 the person you love best, and when you put your 
 face into a hole, you saw yourself in a glass opposite, 
 in some unusual costume perhaps as a Highlander, or 
 a ballet dancer. On either side of the pond were 
 two splendid marquees, the one a refreshment tent, 
 the other a post office, and a voting place. For the 
 post office, we had written lots of little rhymes for 
 different people. Then I gave two prizes, the one for 
 a lady, the other for a gentleman, it being decided by 
 vote who was to have them . The vote cost half a franc, 
 and we made £38 by this 1 Then we had a stall and 
 a fish-pond, a photographing machine, and a camel 
 to ride, and a living Aunt Sally to aim at, and tea to 
 be had, and a Kiosk had been put up, in which there 
 was a little model electric railway ! 
 
 The entrance was three francs, and each enter- 
 tainment was one franc, and we made over ;S390 ! 
 The people began to come at three, and stayed till 
 seven, and every one was delighted. 
 
 I 
 
1883] THE COPTIC CATHEDRAL 279 
 
 Two harem carriages came with Princess Said and 
 Princess Mansour in them, and they were tempted to get 
 out, and were especially delighted with the " Rhoda 
 Mystery." Princess Said told D. that, if the Khedive 
 was displeased at their getting out, he must take all 
 the blame. 
 
 Every one is so astonished at the money I have 
 extracted from Cairo. I am getting quite a reputa- 
 tion as a " lucky-hand." The Khedive's little boys 
 came, and showered about sovereigns. 
 
 Sunday, 18th. — Of course, as this was a last day at 
 Cairo, we wanted to do some sight-seeing, and I asked 
 R. Bey to take us to see some old Coptic churches. 
 He did us in the most shameful way, and we lost our 
 afternoon, he employing it to his own glorification. 
 
 But what happened was rather funny, and most 
 extraordinary. In the carriage he mentioned inci- 
 dentally that we were going to see the New Coptic 
 Cathedral, and that he had let the Patriarch know. 
 As we approached it, the bells began to ring, but in 
 my humility it never struck me it was for me. How- 
 ever, when I got to the door of the church I saw the 
 aisle lined by the choir holding lighted tapers, and 
 a priest in full canonicals inviting me in. 
 
 Taking all my sang-froid in my hands, I marched 
 slowly up the church between the boys, who chanted 
 on either side of me, till I came to some sofas and arm- 
 chairs placed for me in front of the screen which 
 divides what we should call the altar from the body 
 of the church. Here we sat, and the nasal singing 
 went on and on, and I was told that the first was a 
 psalm and the second a hymn in honour of Queen 
 Victoria. 
 
 When I suggested leaving, I was told the priest would 
 
 make a little address, which he did ; he had a curious 
 
 face, with a very amused expression of countenance, 
 
 and at the end of his sermon he requested that I 
 
 19 
 
28o THE COPTIC PATRIARCH [ch. v 
 
 might be told what he had said. He began by men- 
 tioning that sin had come into the world by a woman, 
 but that, in compensation for this, another woman had 
 been created to be the Mother of our Lord. He then 
 gave a list of several virtuous women, ending with 
 Queen Victoria, for whom he prayed. The choir 
 sang a very out-of-tune " Amen," and he went on 
 again, and got to her representatives, and I heard 
 the name of " Dufferin " two or three times before he 
 ended. 
 
 My procession formed again and, as I marched 
 down the church, the congregation said, " God save 
 the Queen." 
 
 Then I had to go and see the Patriarch, and sat in 
 solemn state by him, the others seated all round the 
 room, and sweet stuff and cigars were handed — and 
 he gave me two little horn things which are supposed 
 to be a charm against poison. 
 
 After this we did some mosques, but not very inter- 
 esting ones, and then home 1 
 
 D. was much displeased with R. Bey for having got 
 up this Coptic demonstration, as it might be supposed 
 to have some political meaning. He has ordered him 
 to be told of his displeasure. 
 
 A few people came in in the afternoon to say good- 
 bye to me, as we start up the Nile to-morrow. 
 
 Our Journey up the Nile 
 
 Monday, igth. — Our steamer started last Thursday, 
 and we go by train to Assiout, where we meet her. 
 
 Our party consists of D. and I, with Miss S,, Hallie 
 and the children, Mr. Bland, Mr. Macfarren, Mr. 
 Moore (as interpreter), and Miss Colvin, who is a 
 very pretty, nice, merry girl, Sir Auckland Colvin 's 
 eldest daughter. 
 
 We had a saloon carriage, and the day was cool 
 
 1 
 
1883] THE NILE 281 
 
 and very moderately dusty, and the children were 
 as good as gold, and we had luncheon and tea in the 
 train, which divided the time, and it passed pleasantly. 
 Towards evening the scenery got quite pretty, and 
 the lights on the stony hills lovely — and I saw palm- 
 trees to perfection. They no longer rose from sandy 
 ground in a dull monotony of colouring, but there 
 were groves of them with bright green at their feet, 
 and beautiful small bushy ones breaking the line of 
 their usually unbroken trunks, and they had an air 
 of luxuriance, which about Cairo they so sadly want. 
 Then we saw a glimpse of the " Corvee " — the people 
 at their forced labour, and lightly clad children 
 at the stations, and buffaloes, camels, and " baby- 
 donkeys " in the fields, which were a perpetual source 
 of interest to the children ; and at seven we reached 
 Assiout. There we all mounted donkeys, and felt as 
 if we were a very picturesque group, as, surrounded 
 by Arabs, we wended our way in the twilight, to our 
 steamer. 
 
 Such a grand steamer 1 On deck a fine dining- 
 room, and above it a large place to sit by day — and 
 the most charming cabins below. Freddy was wild 
 with delight at having a cabin to himself, and im- 
 mediately appropriated the key — and wished he could 
 live for ever on board, or that he might take the 
 cabin to Pera — and at dinner he held forth a great 
 deal in his excitement, making us all laugh. We 
 sat out a little while in the moonlight, but, being tired, 
 went very early to bed. 
 
 Tuesday, 20th. — Such a lovely day 1 bright and 
 bracing. We all wear jackets, and at night it is cold. 
 
 How am I to attempt the scenery ? There are palms 
 and mud villages ; there are high, flat-topped ridges 
 of stone, made pretty by shadows and lights upon 
 them ; there are green fields, and stretches of sand, 
 and every now and then we look as if we were going 
 
282 THE NILE [ch. v 
 
 straight ashore, and then we just manage to edge off 
 again ; and when a few dahabiyehs are in sight, their 
 big sails give great variety and Hfe to the landscape. 
 There is Httle to tell, as we pass all the day sitting 
 on deck, writing, reading, or working ; the children 
 play draughts with different people — and we all 
 enjoy ourselves lazily. Most people are to be seen 
 beginning the day with a Murray, or a deep work on 
 Egyptology, but they are soon seen to fall back upon 
 a novel. Our meals are excellent, and the dinner- 
 bell is always a joyful sound, for we have got very 
 hungry. The Khedive was so robbed when we lived 
 in his house (;,^i,200 for ten days), that we had this 
 steamer put into the hands of " Cook," and he has 
 arranged everything. In the evening the light 
 became perfectly beautiful, and I saw for the first 
 time that glow of absolute colour on the hills which 
 in pictures looks so impossible. 
 
 Apart from scenery, the working of the " shadoof " 
 all along the banks of the Nile is interesting to look 
 at. The shadoof is a series of levers, each one 
 raising a bucket of water to the level of the fields 
 above, and what one sees is, four or five bronze 
 figures with a bit of dark blue or white rag bound 
 round* them, working in tiers one above another, 
 dipping the long, slanting pole into the water, and 
 raising with it a little pot of water which is emptied 
 as it comes up ; at the end of each pole is a heavy 
 lump of clay, which enables them to work it easily 
 — there is something ancient and uncivilised and 
 melancholy in the sight of these human beings spend- 
 ing their lives in this dreary -looking work. 
 
 Then we pass many villages, and, if your mind is 
 innocent and unsophisticated, you think that the 
 picturesque ruins of an old castle are before you ; 
 but, as you approach, the imaginary fortress dissolves 
 into the most squalid of mud villages. Its square 
 
1883] THE NILE 283 
 
 towers are built for pigeons, and its broken-down walls 
 are really the habitations of the fellah. It is all one 
 colour and this saves it, for even when you have 
 thoroughly looked into it, and have even observed 
 the funniest little round oven-kind of places as form- 
 ing part of its architecture, you can't help taking it 
 as a whole, and with a sort of mental reservation you 
 still feel that it is an ancient Keep. 
 
 In the evening we sat for some time in the moon- 
 light, listening to a few of Mr. Moore's dramatically 
 told stories of old days at Constantinople, and of 
 " that man who moved in the icy circle of his own 
 pride," * feared by everybody — and then we went 
 down to the saloon, and were sung to by Miss Colvin 
 and Mr. Bland. 
 
 Wednesday, 21st. — It is still cool, strange to say ! 
 By cool, I mean perfectly delightful weather. We 
 stop at night and go on at dawn. The only excite- 
 ment on the way was that our awning got on fire, 
 and had to be taken down just in the heat of the 
 day, so we had to retire to a small shady corner 
 where we had not much view ; but in the evening 
 we were able to come out of it and watch our arrival 
 at Luxor. 
 
 Luxor is not much to look at from the river. As 
 we passed along we were saluted by the various 
 Consulates, and as soon as we anchored several people 
 came on board. Our own Consul, " Mustapha Aga," 
 is a very old, dark-coloured man, and he invited us to 
 an entertainment in the evening ; so after dinner, 
 at which Freddie again in the wildest spirits kept up 
 the chief part of the conversation, we went ashore, 
 and walked up to Mustapha's house, which desecrates 
 an ancient temple — ^it is built in between the pillars 
 which form a colonnade, and on this occasion it had 
 a gimcrack arch in our honour erected in front of it. 
 
 ^ Lord Stratford de RedcliflEe. 
 
284 LUXOR [CH. V 
 
 We found Arab music and dancing-girls awaiting us. 
 The latter were ugly women dressed in loose gowns, 
 short waists, and round-balloon skirts, with many 
 ornaments hanging from neck and waist. Their 
 dancing is very peculiar. It is neither pretty nor 
 graceful, but anatomically speaking it is most 
 curious, and how they manage the convulsions which 
 they exhibit is more than I can imagine. Their 
 gowns move in every direction, all the ornaments 
 jingle, while their feet remain still, and one moment 
 you think a thigh must be out of joint, then you ask 
 yourself if it was a knee, or if it was only a gigantic 
 sob that so agitated their garments ; they stand still, 
 and, trembling in every muscle, seem to sink into the 
 earth, then up again, and more jerks and throbs pro- 
 ceed from every part of these mysterious anatomies. 
 
 One girl performed the whole dance with a bottle 
 of water on her head, and finished off by lying down 
 on the floor and rolling the whole length of the room, 
 still keeping the bottle steadily in its place on her 
 head. Many more were waiting to show off, but we 
 left early, being tired, and knowing that we should 
 see nothing new. Our orders to-night are for an early 
 start to-morrow, and breakfast at seven. 
 
 Thursday, 22nd. — Our cabins being all together, 
 one is let into many confidences of a morning, dis- 
 cussions as to whose turn it is to enjoy the one 
 bath, inquiries for missing garments, Victoria's voice 
 singing " Wake, puppies wake," etc., and so, when 
 we do meet at breakfast, we feel that it is not as 
 strangers we come together. 
 
 The breakfast is a light one, and, directly it is over 
 we all mount donkeys, endless donkey-boys and guides 
 in turbans and light garments following us, telling us 
 our special donkey is " glorious," " magnanimous," 
 " exquisite," "goes like a steamboat," and so on to 
 Karnak. 
 
1S83] LUXOR .285 
 
 I had looked at many books to try and get some 
 idea of Karnak, but all the descriptions have been 
 so overladen with historical digressions, that I really 
 had no idea at all as to what is really left ; so I will 
 try to tell you what I have seen without any allusion 
 to history, nor will I burden your mind with dates 
 or dynasties, nor unsettle your conviction as to the 
 creation of the world having been in 4004. 
 
 Amidst the square, mud-coloured cabins of an 
 Egyptian village, we came upon an avenue of pillars, 
 a bit of a wall covered with hieroglyphics, the heads 
 of two gigantic buried figures, and an obelisk — and, 
 passing them, we rode for half an hour, sometimes on 
 an unshaded road, and sometimes through a grove 
 of palm-trees, till we came to the great gateway of 
 the Temple of Karnak. There are the broken re- 
 mains of many sphinxes, sufficient to show the direc- 
 tion of the avenue of them which once stood there 
 in solemn grandeur, and then, turning through the 
 magnificent portal, we found ourselves in an open 
 court ; bits of walls and pillars covered with carvings 
 stood about, but all too much in ruins to show the 
 plan of the building ; through this, we walked into 
 the most splendid Hall of Columns. There are, I 
 believe, 134 gigantic pillars, close together, rows and 
 rows of them, traced all over with hieroglyphics, as 
 clear as the day they were cut, and with traces of 
 colour on them still. Those on the stone rafters 
 above, being less exposed to the sun, are quite 
 bright. The size of all this, and the beauty of it, 
 exceed one's wildest imaginations, and when you 
 look out from this place, and see the two beautiful 
 obelisks rising among the ruins, and on every side 
 more rows of enormous stone figures, and find that 
 every bit of wall and every stone is covered with 
 writing, and that there were three of those great 
 avenues of sphinxes leading to the different gates, 
 
286 KARNAK [ch. v 
 
 one is bewildered with ideas too big for one, and I 
 feel that it would take weeks, and not hours, to digest 
 it all. How very, very small, in comparison, is the 
 very grandest temple we should even conceive of 
 building in these times I Certainly one does come 
 away from these monuments saying, " There were 
 giants in those days." 
 
 We rode home through ground covered with figures, 
 sitting, tumbling down, half buried, headless, or foot- 
 less, but showing the immense space of ground 
 covered by these buildings. 
 
 The afternoon. — I don't think one knows what 
 bigness means until one comes here. I have just 
 seen the great statues of Amenhotep III, called the 
 " Colossi," sitting in their majestic grandeur, the 
 hills behind them only serving to show the greatness 
 of their size. One stands by them looking at them 
 in amazement, and wishes that nobody would speak ! 
 No account of these figures ever gave me the faintest 
 idea of their enormous size — one seems to enter upon 
 a new order of ideas altogether, when one realises 
 that men ever could have created such works. There 
 they are, the faces destroyed, and yet the whole 
 vision so grand, and so full of dignity and repose, 
 that one does not miss the features which should 
 give expression, and cannot imagine that anything 
 could enhance the impression they create — it is 
 simply one of awe and reverent admiration. 
 
 Then we went on to the Ramesseum, where the 
 remains of a still larger figure lie, its head in the 
 sand, with all the features perfect except the nose — 
 and very beautiful it is. The drawings on the walls 
 and columns here are particularly interesting, and 
 one is beginning to take quite an affectionate interest 
 in Rameses II ; in another week we shall know him 
 really well. 
 
 These grand ideas are mixed up with the conver- 
 
KARNAK. 
 
 From stereograph copj'right by Underwood & Underwood, New York. 
 
 286] 
 
1883] THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS 287 
 
 sation of the donkey-boys, and all the incidents of 
 donkey-riding, which we all enjoy very much. 
 
 Friday, 2^rd. — ^We made a long expedition, and 
 remained out all day. We breakfasted at seven, 
 and set off directly after for the Tombs of the Kings . 
 Our road lay first through a sandy plain, then over 
 green fields, and then through the mountains, the 
 yellow sandstone hills all round us, and a bright blue 
 sky above. 
 
 There are thirty-five tombs, but we thought two 
 or three would be enough to visit, and I am sure it 
 will satisfy you if I give you an idea of one of them. 
 That one is No. 17, the tomb of Seti I. 
 
 We descended a long way, down stairs and slanting 
 paths, the walls of the passages being covered with 
 hieroglyphics, into a court supported by pillars and 
 elaborately decorated ; still lower we went into a 
 vaulted chamber, where the drawings on walls and 
 ceilings were most interesting, as was the room with 
 a shelf all round it, on which the mummified remains 
 of the household of the king were placed. The 
 magnesium light enables one to see everything quite 
 plainly ; but it is so impossible to give the slightest 
 idea of the acres of drawings one sees that it is 
 useless to try ; there was one room in which the 
 designs had been drawn, but they had never been 
 carved, and so one sees the hieroglyphics in their 
 first process. We went through three more tombs, 
 and then retired to another, where we found a 
 splendid lunch laid out for us and where we remained 
 till the day was cool. Then we started on our 
 return journey, and looked at the Temple of Gurnah 
 as we passed it. The wall-pictures there are much 
 defaced, and, after the other things we have seen, 
 it is not so interesting. 
 
 All the time we were out we were followed by little 
 girls of about ten, carrying water-bottles on their 
 
288 NATIVE CHILDREN [ch. v 
 
 heads — they are such pretty figures, their loose blue 
 dress reaching to the ground, a veil or shawl flowing 
 from the back of the head, long loose sleeves with a 
 brown arm coming out, and gracefully supporting the 
 bottle. They all speak a little English, and each 
 one attached herself to a particular person saying, 
 " Me, Fatma, stand by you, good lady, nice lady " ; 
 two of them had a fight for me, but I was faithful to 
 the original " Fatma," and so, when we all parted, 
 " Fatma " kissed my hand in return for a coin 
 secretly given in excess of the regulation two piastres, 
 while the rival " Maria " would not even look at me. 
 You have no idea what beautiful colours in skin one 
 sees here, especially at the shadoof, where little cloth- 
 ing can be worn. It makes one very doubtful as to 
 whether white is really the superior tint for the human 
 race — there is a brown approaching black, with a 
 purple hue in it, which, with a bit of blue cotton to 
 show it off, is beautiful ; then there are many shades 
 of a golden brown, and the children (who mostly 
 run about without a stitch on) are simply " dark- 
 coloured " — a light brown. Last night I saw an 
 infant on a sand-heap all by itself, looking too small 
 to be alone, or even to sit up ; but there it was, clothed 
 in its necklace, smiling as happily as possible. I 
 noticed that when some one admired the little water- 
 carrier's arm, she immediately drew her sleeve across, 
 so as to hide a great part of it, a modesty one would 
 scarcely expect at ten years old. 
 
 Saturday, 24ih. — ^We remained quietly on board all 
 the morning, and at three we started off as usual, a 
 great cavalcade on donkeys, to see the tomb which 
 D. found when last here, and some diggings which 
 he is making now. I think I have not yet told you 
 about this — but it is a great excitement, and he goes 
 off to look at it at every spare moment, and there 
 is a mummy now to be examined which was found 
 
i883l PRINCESS HATASU 289 
 
 last night. The children are greatly bitten with the 
 idea, and are longing to dig themselves, besides collect- 
 ing curiosities which are given them on every side. 
 The only rivals to the antiquities are the " baby 
 donkeys," infant sparrows, and young bats, which 
 they are perpetually finding, and I hear one moment 
 a shriek of delight over some hieroglyphic or picture 
 which they understand, and the next an equally 
 fervent one over some juvenile animal. Well, we 
 rode on our way, and looked into the new pits, 
 and all the family, myself excepted, went down into 
 D.'s tomb. It was rather difficult to get into, and I 
 was tired, so I only sat and looked at the enormous 
 hole he had made before finding it. 
 
 Then we looked at the remains of the temple 
 built by the Princess Hatasu, and on one wall of it 
 is almost the most interesting fresco we have seen. 
 She seems to have been quite a character, this Prin- 
 cess, usurping her brother's throne, styling herself 
 " King," and dressing herself as such, and in male 
 attire she is depicted on the wall. Like the Queen of 
 Sheba, she made a journey, and brought home from 
 her travels many things — trees, for instance, and there 
 are the pictures of the trees being carried along, and 
 placed in her ships, the masts and ropes of which 
 are clearly defined, and the river flows below with 
 rows of fishes swimming at stated intervals through 
 the water. There are cattle browsing, and scales 
 full of rings on one side, and weights in the shape of 
 cows in the other — and so on through all the story 
 of her return home. We had very little time to see 
 it all, and, as it was, we had to stop on our way 
 till the moon had risen sufficiently to let us see the 
 crossing, and when we got home we had dinner, at 
 which Mr. Mackenzie Wallace — an antiquarian, and a 
 French artist — assisted. 
 
 Easter Sunday, 2$th. — We were to have gone out 
 
290 MEDIN-ET-ABU [ch. v 
 
 early and spent the whole day with " Maspero," 
 who is the head of the Museum at Cairo, and who is 
 digging here ; but, as we had two invalids, I decided 
 that the " women and children " should give up the 
 morning expedition, and only join the rest of the 
 party in the afternoon. So D. and the other gentle- 
 men went off at 7.30, and spent the day in visiting 
 the tombs of the Queens, and of some private indi- 
 viduals, until 4 o'clock, when we all met at Medin-et- 
 Abu. 
 
 Medin-et-Abu is a combination of temple and 
 palace, and is built like a fortress, every wall and 
 gateway being of the most massive description, and 
 each side of every wall and every pillar being entirely 
 covered with pictures and hieroglyphics. Rameses III 
 has immortalised himself in his portraits all over the 
 place ; he is for ever fighting and victorious ; he is 
 borne along in a splendid chariot, attended by gods 
 and goddesses, he draws the bow, and his enemies are 
 scattered around. He chucks a young lady under 
 the chin, and through all these centuries she has 
 supported his elbow while he does so ; the waters of 
 life are poured over him, and birds are sent flying 
 to all the quarters of the globe to proclaim his power 
 and his greatness — and so on, and so on, all the history 
 of his life is depicted on these walls. One of his 
 great battles was at Migdol or Magdala, and, as Lord 
 Napier of Magdala was with us, he greatly appre- 
 ciated this fact as explained to us by M. Maspero. 
 
 Monday, 26th. — We looked at the temple of Luxor 
 this morning. Numbers of mud huts are built in 
 the ruins, but now they are all to be demolished, and 
 when that is done Luxor will have a much more 
 imposing appearance as you approach it, for then 
 the columns and portions of the walls of a great 
 temple will be seen from the water instead of a 
 number of ugly houses. There is here a most 
 
1883] THE HALL OF COLUMNS 291 
 
 charming hotel with a lovely garden, quite a place 
 for an invalid to spend the winter in. 
 
 As soon as the afternoon was cool enough, we 
 went off to have another look at Karnak, and we 
 were all glad to finish off as we had begun, with the 
 finest ruin in the world. In spite of all our senti- 
 ments of admiration and veneration, we had tea in 
 the great Hall of Columns, and I am not sure that, as 
 we sat prosaically there enjoying our creature com- 
 forts, we did not realise the magnitude and grandeur 
 of our surroundings even more fully than if we had 
 taken them more aesthetically. We stayed there till 
 it was quite dark, and saw the sunset on the ruins, 
 and then two Bengal lights were carried about, throw- 
 ing the most lovely glows and shadows everywhere, 
 and this was our last glimpse of Karnak. We rode 
 home in the dark, and all the evening there was great 
 " settling up," and great discussions going on be- 
 tween D. and various people, for they say, '* We are 
 on the eve of great discoveries — on the tomb of a 
 king," and D. is tempted to stay and see. However, 
 it was finally settled that he should go up to the 
 place in the morning and then decide our plans. 
 
 Tuesday, 2yth.—D. went off early to look at his 
 diggings, and came back at nine. He thinks one of 
 the holes really is promising, but he settled not to 
 stay, but to let the men go on under one of M. 
 Maspero's superintendents. 
 
 I wonder if you know that last year a number of 
 mummy-kings were found, not in their own fine 
 tombs, but in a heap together, where some " body- 
 snatcher " had hidden them, and D. hopes to have 
 found another collection of these disentombed mon- 
 archs. If so, Egypt will immortalise us — no matter 
 how well or ill our " Constitution " succeeds I 
 
 And now we are off once more ; Luxor has faded 
 away in the distance — ^for ever ? I wonder. 
 
292 ASHORE [CH. V 
 
 I was very glad to go ashore a little, which we did 
 at five o'clock, just seeing the temple at Denderah 
 before it got quite dark. 
 
 It is a very fine temple of a much later date than 
 the others we have seen, and in a good state of pre- 
 servation. The Hall of Columns there is very magni- 
 ficent, but the details are much coarser than those on 
 the walls and pillars in the more ancient buildings. 
 
 It was quite dark when we left it, and we rode 
 home by the light of some magnesium candles borne 
 aloft by a man on a donkey. 
 
 Wednesday, 2Sth. — ^At this moment we are ashore, 
 and the funniest efforts are being made to get us 
 off — hundreds of men have swum out from the shore, 
 and are now standing half under our vessel trying to 
 push it side-ways with their backs — and one only 
 sees the oddest heads appearing from underneath the 
 steamer, some altogether shaved, some with a lock 
 left on the crown, and all most hideous. Just now, 
 a boat with a cargo of lightly clad brown people is 
 approaching, with the view of helping us — and all 
 round there is such a jabbering going on I We are 
 very anxious to get off, as we have no time to spare. 
 
 . . . We got off and on again several times during 
 the day, and so did not get quite so far as we intended, 
 having to spend the night some way from the proper 
 stopping-place — ^Assiout . 
 
 Thursday, 2gth. — By breakfast time we got there, 
 and an hour was spent in bargaining for ivory sticks 
 and native pottery. 
 
 We intended to stop at Beni-Hassan, but, as the 
 expedition there was very long, and the weather hot, 
 and as it would have put off our arrival at Cairo by 
 a night, we decided to go straight on. We had, 
 however, to stop a moment to pick up Sultan Pasha, 
 and a number of other Egyptians who had come 
 down to meet D. We told them we had to go on, 
 
i88s] EVENING ON THE NILE 293 
 
 but that if they would come on board we would take 
 them back to their homes. This they did, and D. 
 had a good two hours' talk with them through an 
 interpreter. 
 
 Everywhere that we have been the Governor or 
 " Mudir " of the place came to see us, and two of 
 them dined with us one night. 
 
 The evening was lovely, and even when quite dark 
 there was a golden glow upon the waters which 
 looked quite mysterious, and I sat for a long time 
 looking at it and at the black palms growing at the 
 water's edge. The worst of travelling at this time 
 of year is that there is so very little time in which 
 you can see the scenery. All day it is too hot to be 
 out, even under an awning — at five it gets cool, but 
 at seven it is pitch dark. So from ten till five the 
 day is lost as far as the tourist is concerned. The 
 heat is not excessive indoors ; it is only the great 
 power of the sun which makes it dangerous to go out. 
 
 You see I have done with tombs and monuments 
 and ancient kings, and so ought to write no more about 
 the Nile. 
 
 Now I'll tell you how we have all " taken " this 
 expedition. 
 
 D. read a great big history of Egypt by Brugsch 
 — took an interest in his " diggings," and was 
 delighted to revisit all these sights — did some official 
 business at every place, and kept an eye on passing 
 gendarmes and Mudirs. 
 
 Lady D. — Read Erasmus Wilson, Miss Edwards, 
 Murray, and Narda (by Ebers), liked the temples 
 immensely, but is not sufficiently of a gambler to 
 enter heartily into the " diggings." 
 
 Helen. — ^A quiet and rather languid interest, but 
 was sorry to miss some sights owing to a feverish 
 attack. 
 
 Three Children. — Extremely happy, and greatly 
 
294 DRAMO PERS. [ch. v 
 
 excited over everything — cabins, donkeys, monu- 
 ments, hieroglyphics, passing animals, wildly desirous 
 of finding some antiquity for themselves. 
 
 Miss S. — ^A reference on historical facts when a 
 book is not at hand — very pleased and happy. 
 
 Mr. Bland. — ^Went through the sight-seeing with 
 a proper amount of interest. 
 
 Miss Colvin. — ^The life of the party until she 
 fell ill. 
 
 Miss Blackwell. — Despises a steamer, having once 
 spent the winter in a dahabiyeh. 
 
 Mrs. Hall. — Has gone religiously through every- 
 thing : rode donkeys, gone into tombs, edged near 
 the children when they were receiving any informa- 
 tion, so as to pick up the crumbs that might fall, 
 and has displayed, on all occasions, the energy of a 
 young woman — and she must be nearly seventy. 
 
 NowELL. — ^Was invested with authority at the 
 diggings, and always thought he was close " upon a 
 king." 
 
 Mr. Moore, the interpreter, has told wonderful 
 stories, and has done his business to perfection. 
 Then there was a M . Alexandre, sent by Cook, who 
 has managed everything, and thought of everything, 
 down to bringing out toilet vinegar to refresh us in 
 the tombs on a hot day — a wonderful organiser. 
 
 Friday, ^oth. — I wound this up too soon, and must 
 take another sheet to finish it. As we were hurrying 
 on to get home before dark, we saw on the banks 
 a large tent, a great array of turbaned individuals, 
 and a guard of white-clad gendarmerie. A landing- 
 place had also been put up, and so there was nothing 
 for it but to take the hint and stop. This we did, 
 and D.went ashore, was seated in the tent — the " tur- 
 bans " took off their black robes, and displayed 
 the most lovely green, yellow, and purple garments 
 underneath, and all sat round, while the great man 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
1883] THE CHILDREN 
 
 295 
 
 was coffeed and cigaretted. A " pow-wow " took 
 place, and then D. walked " around " the gendarmes, 
 — the turbans came on board, and shook hands with 
 the harem of the Grand Bashaw, and off we went 
 again. However, we were too late, and the sun went 
 to bed so earty that we had to unpack again, and 
 stay on board. 
 
 The children have been so good, and so amusing 
 on board, that I must give them a separate chapter. 
 
 They take such an interest in all the history, 
 and in everything they see — are greatly " bitten " 
 with Egyptology, and really know a great deal for 
 such little things. Freddie talks with familiarity of 
 Rameses II, and Queen Hatasu, and they go about 
 trying to spell the cartouches, and at home study 
 books on the subject, to try and draw their own 
 names in hieroglyphics. Their chief amusement on 
 board has been playing draughts, and now nursing 
 Miss Colvin is an occupation. Freddie got quite 
 sentimental over her — he says she " ghtters," that is 
 his description of her very beaming face — and the 
 first time he saw her dressed for dinner, he said, 
 " How nice you look in evening dress 1 " And then he 
 set to work most diligently and worked a marker for 
 her with her initials on it, and put it in an envelope, 
 on which he put, " For her I love best." He is very 
 pleased with the idea of telling the Wyndhams all 
 he has learnt about Egypt, and last night he said, " I 
 shall ask Willie Wyndham what the Sacred Bull was 
 called — Cow, he'll probably say." 
 ^ Cairo, Monday, April 2nd. — I am leaving here some 
 time before D. can get away, and so I have begun 
 my farewell visits. Those to harems are trying to 
 the constitution in every way — fatiguing, as they are 
 so long, and the conversation is laboured, and then 
 one has to taste so many things, and to inhale so 
 much smoke. 
 
 20 
 
296 FAREWELL VISITS [ch. v ! 
 
 To-day I began at 1 1 .30, and went to Princess \ 
 Said, the widow of an ex- Khedive. She is clever and ; 
 nice ; writes very pretty Arab poetry, and when I : 
 told her that D. had admired a hymn she had written, , 
 she was much amused, and clapped me on the back \ 
 — ^for it happened to be of a rebellious nature 1 She i 
 did not like the English invasion, but now she says , 
 that they are doing good in the country. She re- ] 
 ceived me in the hall, and led me to a divan in her ; 
 drawing-room, offered me a pipe, and smoked her- ; 
 self. A very nice girl acted as interpreter. ' 
 
 In about half an hour, we went in to lunch, had 
 our hands washed en passant by damsels holding > 
 silver basins and ewers, and embroidered towels, and 
 sat ourselves round a large silver tray. We had lentil , 
 soup, and then a very good dish of rice and minced ' 
 meat wrapped up in vine-leaves, a stuffed joint of ' 
 lamb, a dish of savoury pastry, rissoles, fish, sweet ] 
 pastry, and many other things, and one kind of J 
 sweet wine — Malmsey, I think. She told me to ' 
 tell the Prince of Wales that, since we bombarded ^ 
 Alexandria, she no longer liked the English. I told ^ 
 her that I would give her message, and would add i 
 that I don't believe it. She said she would send D. 1 
 Turkish dishes when I had left — that he would be ' 
 under her care, and that she looked upon herself as i 
 his mother-in-law. ' 
 
 Arab music was being played all the time by 
 four Houris, and once they broke into an air from ; 
 Rigoletto, to which the Princess had put Turkish j 
 words. V 
 
 When we had finished we again washed our hands, ; 
 looked at some of the pictures and ornaments in the \ 
 large hall, and then sat ourselves down on divans 1 
 in another room. Coffee was brought, and after a | 
 little time the musicians came in, and four girls 
 dance. 
 
1883] DANCES 297 
 
 They were all dressed in a deep pink — body and 
 " divided skirt," the latter quite touching the ground. 
 At first the dance was the usual thing. I may call 
 it the " Dislocated Hip " dance, and they repeated 
 it with water-bottles on their heads. Then they per- 
 formed a wonderful gymnastic feat. A ring was put 
 down upon the floor, and, throwing themselves back 
 till their hands reached the floor, they walked back- 
 wards on hands and feet till they got to the ring, 
 when, turning their heads under, they picked it up 
 in their mouths. They finished off this part of the 
 performance by turning head over heels in " wheel 
 fashion " three times. 
 
 Then they danced a Tunisian dance. I believe it 
 represented love. They held handkerchiefs in their 
 hands, and waved them about gracefully enough, then 
 they danced for some time, holding them up to their 
 eyes — ^weeping ; then took hold of the corners and 
 twisted themselves in and out. 
 
 After this came a Circassian dance, which was rather 
 amusing, for a tall and rather elderly young lady, in a 
 grey gown represented a man, and all the dancing 
 was in her hands (or feet ?). She did some wonderful 
 steps (in grey and red stockings), flung about the 
 room, and then, with a hiss and a whoop, seized a 
 young lady and turned her round. This, and another 
 Circassian dance, in which there was a good deal of 
 vocal accompaniment, resemble the Scotch reels. Ice 
 was next brought in, and when we reached the hall 
 door to go out, a drink in a golden cup was offered us. 
 
 The Princess embraced me, and again told me to 
 have no anxiety about D. 
 
 I left about 2.30, and went off to Princess Man- 
 sour's. I was rather glad that some other visitors 
 were there too. Here we tasted sweets and tea, and 
 I felt quite unable to go on with the harems, and 
 have three on my hands to-day. 
 
298 FAREWELL VISITS [ch. v 
 
 Tuesday, 2,rd. — ^We have got a reprieve, as there is 
 no room for us in the China boat ; however, as my 
 harems were by appointment, I had to try and do 
 them. The Vice-Reine was very Hvely, and Madame 
 della Sala was there, so the conversation was pretty 
 brisk. She gave me her family photographs, and I 
 am to send mine. 
 
 Then I went on to the grandmother, a dear old thing, 
 and then started off to Princess Hassan. I was in a 
 great hurry, as it was a quarter to six, and we were 
 to dine at seven, and a harem visit must be long ; 
 so, looking at my watch every five minutes, I arrived 
 at a palace a long way off, went into a room, slaves 
 attended, but no sign of the Princess, and I began to 
 fume at her delay. Another person came in, and sat 
 herself down by Katie. I thought it funny, but sup- 
 posed she was a friend. No one could speak any 
 known tongue ; at last, after coffee, the person got 
 up and sat by me ; then a slave pointed first to a 
 picture, and said, " Hussein,'^ and then to the lady, 
 and said, " Mother " — so I found that, instead of 
 being at Princess Hassan's, who was expecting me, I 
 was with Prince Hassan's mother. I said, " Hassan 
 Hanoun," and pointed to myself to express that she 
 was expecting me ; but twent}^ precious minutes 
 were gone, and the right palace was far away from 
 this one, and very far from our house. I had to 
 go, but settled to say at once that I had been 
 kept, and that I would return another day to 
 pay my visit. This I did as soon as possible, but 
 I had to go in and have coffee. The Princess is a 
 very pretty person, speaks French, and was really 
 in a state of joy, because her husband is allowed to 
 come back. She said I was to thank D. — that it 
 was his doing, and that she was so glad he had come 
 to Egypt. 
 
 April gth. — ^The Khedive kindly came to our house 
 
1883] FAREWELLS 299 
 
 to say good-bye to me, and Nelly and I left in the 
 afternoon for England. 
 
 The children returned to Constantinople at once, 
 and on the second of May D. himself was able to leave 
 Cairo. He went by special train to Alexandria, all 
 the English officers and officials, and most of the 
 Egyptian Ministers, being at the station to see him 
 off. At Alexandria he went on board H.M.S. 
 Helicon, which was to take him to Constantinople. 
 
 On May loth he had an interview with the Sultan 
 in reference to Egypt and the Armenian question, 
 the latter being the business which took him back to 
 Constantinople on his way home from Egypt, 
 
 After a week there he again went on board the 
 Helicon, was landed at Varna, and arrived in London 
 on May 22nd. 
 
 London to Constantinople 
 
 September. — All night in the train, and a few hours at 
 Marseilles. We did a little sight-seeing there, passing 
 through a very fine entrance to a " Zoo," museums 
 on either side, flights of stairs, and a centre-piece of 
 great bulls and gigantic infants struggling through 
 waterfalls which flow down into a pond surrounded 
 by gardens. This is at the end of the street, and 
 behind this very handsome gateway is a real garden 
 d'acclimatation, as the animals are passed on to 
 other places when they become accustomed to the 
 new climate. 
 
 Then to our ship. Lovely weather, but the time 
 passed slowly till Monday, when we had the whole 
 day ashore at Naples. We made the most of this, 
 got up early, breakfasted at an hotel, and then off 
 by train to Pompeii. 
 
 It was most interesting, but quite Lilliputian after 
 
300 POMPEII [CH. V 
 
 Karnak. The little houses, with their little rooms, 
 little courts, little gardens, make the Romans appear 
 small compared with the ancient Egyptians ; but the 
 ruins are very interesting, giving one such a complete 
 idea of the life of the inhabitants . You see the paintings 
 on their walls, the mosaic on their floors, the wine- 
 bottles still cooling in the halls, the wine-merchant's 
 shop and the baker's oven, the public bath and the 
 " drying room," the Hall of Justice and the theatre ; 
 everything that can tell of a people's life is there, 
 and then in the museum are those wonderful castes 
 of the people themselves. There is an old Roman 
 with the conventional nose, and a ring on his finger, 
 apparently unconscious of the fate that overtook 
 him, and several others ; the only figure showing 
 any signs of agony is that of a dog twisted into an 
 extraordinary attitude. Having spent two hours there 
 we returned to Naples, and had time to look into the 
 Museum, where there is a great collection of paint- 
 ings, sculpture, and mosaics taken from Pompeii, 
 and then once more on board. The day seemed 
 interminable, and every one on board seemed to feel 
 it so, and the arrangement of meals added to this 
 length. Breakfast at nine, and dinner at five ! 
 Such a time between ! I particularly noticed a little 
 French bride as looking very much bored, so Wednes- 
 day morning I spoke to her, upon which she jumped 
 up and sat by me and talked for hours. I never 
 saw any one so glad to unloose her tongue. All day 
 we were close to the Greek coast, which made the day 
 pass pleasantly. Vessels are not allowed to go into 
 Athens till daylight, so we were some hours outside. 
 The Greeks who were going to land there got up 
 about 5 a.m., and laughed and talked all the time, 
 waking up all the other passengers. We had a 
 pleasant surprise at the Dardanelles. Arthur turned 
 up there and gave us all the news of Therapia. 
 
1883] RETURN TO CONSTANTINOPLE 30T 
 
 We got into Constantinople early in the morning, 
 and by nine were off on our own house, hearing the 
 welcoming shrieks of the children as they watched 
 our approach. 
 
 All the Embassy were there, Katie, of course, and 
 she and Arthur came in to breakfast. D. had only 
 begun his when the Russian Secretary arrived, then 
 the Austrian, and so on. No rest for him now. 
 
 In the afternoon we valiantly went off to call on 
 the Ambassadors, and in the evening our secretaries 
 came in to celebrate our return. 
 
 Sunday, September z^th, to Saturday, October 6th. — 
 I have been settling down this week, and picking up 
 the threads that were dropped eleven months ago, 
 as well as some new ones that have been added since 
 I left. For example, we find two new Ambassadors 
 here — M. Radowitz for Germany, and M. Nelidoff for 
 Russia. 
 
 The weather has been extremely hot ; I bathe in 
 the morning and ride occasionally as late in the day 
 as it is possible to go. Monday I went up to town to 
 see how our house is getting on, and found it in a very 
 backward condition, papers torn off, but none put on 
 as yet. 
 
 D. saw the Sultan, who was most gracious, and 
 talks of inviting us to dinner. 
 
 October nth, — ^The weather continues to play the 
 most extraordinary pranks. First it was unbearably 
 hot, then unbearably cold, and so stormy ; and then 
 came a really nice day, which was most fortunate, as 
 we had to spend it on board a yacht. Mr. Pender * 
 came here with the Volta, a cable-laying and cable- 
 picking-up ship, and gave a great luncheon. We 
 really enjoyed it very much, for he kindly consulted 
 our feelings, and did not take us into the Black 
 Sea, but gave us lunch on deck, in the calm waters 
 
 1 Sir John Pender. 
 
302 DINNER AT THE PALACE [ch. v 
 
 of the Bosphorus. We looked at all the machinery, 
 and saw a " mend " or " join "in a broken 
 cable, and really felt quite pleased with the in- 
 formation we had gained, till Katie called it a useless 
 " smattering." 
 
 We had to lunch in relays, and when I heard that 
 the second relay was speech-making, I drew near to 
 listen, and heard a Turk propose the Sultan's health 
 in the following terms : " Nous avons assez bu, 
 nous avons assez dit, mais il faut boire a la sante 
 de Sa Majeste le Sultan, I'ami du progres et de la 
 civilisation." When Mr. Pender heard this he 
 apologised for not having proposed the toast sooner, 
 and proposed it a second time. 
 
 Wednesday, October ijth. — I have to tell you to-day 
 of our dinner at the Sultan's, and I may mention at 
 once that it is a somewhat fatiguing affair, as we began 
 to dress at 3.30, and only got home at midnight. 
 The Sultan always puts off the day he originally fixes 
 (as a matter of principle, or superstition), so we knew 
 that when we were invited for Monday we were sure 
 not to go that day. Wednesday was then named, 
 and we were asked to be at the Palace at 12.30, 
 Turkish time, that is half an hour after sunset, 6.30 
 by our time. It is a long drive to Yildiz, and when 
 I had all my diamonds and my evening dress on in 
 the broad daylight I felt as if I was going to a 
 drawing-room. D. and I, Nelly and Sir Alfred 
 Sanderson went in our carriage, with two kavasses 
 riding in front. 
 
 When we got to the Palace, which is a very small 
 one, we found Munir Bey waiting to receive us. He 
 is the Grand Chamberlain, and a very nice man, 
 superior in manner and appearance to the others. 
 
 Mr. Pender was also a guest, and he went in to see 
 the Sultan first. 
 
 When he returned we were taken to a room where 
 
 < 
 
1883] DINNER AT THE PALACE 303 
 
 the Sultan met us at the door, and, offering me his 
 arm, led me to a divan, where we both sat down in 
 opposite corners, exactly at the same moment. 
 
 D. and Nelly were placed opposite, and Munir Bey 
 stood near to interpret. The Sultan has a very good 
 face and pleasant manner, but his body is too small 
 for his head, so he looks chetif. 
 
 He began by expressing his regret at not having 
 seen me before ; I replied that His Majesty was very 
 good, and that the honour of seeing him was also a 
 great pleasure to me. He then (always through the 
 interpreter) congratulated me upon having " une fille 
 si distinguee." After a short conversation we got 
 up again, and were presented to the three young 
 Princes, and then, giving me his arm, the Sultan took 
 me to the dining-room. The Pashas were standing 
 in their places round the table. The Sultan sat at 
 the end, and there was the space of one place left 
 on either side of him ; then came D., and opposite 
 him, me. Said, the Grand Vizier, was next me, 
 and the poor frightened little man, who has an 
 absolute incapacity for small talk, was told twice 
 during dinner to talk to me, an order which he 
 nervously obeyed, rushing into some perfectly un- 
 intelligible remark ; of course, when I saw we 
 were intended to talk, I helped him as much as 
 possible. 
 
 The table was very long, and Nelly sat at the far 
 end of it, next to the young Prince. Munir Bey 
 stood in a submissive attitude near the Sultan, and 
 received his conversation, passing it on to the person 
 for whom it was intended ; he salaamed all the time. 
 His Majesty talked to me a good deal about fishing, 
 and said he hoped I liked the dinner, which was 
 Turkish ; but you will be amused to hear that our 
 national dish, " ploompouding," appeared on the 
 menu, at the top of which was printed both the 
 
304 DINNER AT THE PALACE [ch. V 
 
 English and the Turkish date: October 17th, 1883; 
 15 Yilhidje, 1300. 
 
 The dinner is cooked in another Palace, and waits 
 several hours after its arrival at Yildiz ; so it is warmed 
 up, and is really bad and cold. 
 
 The Sultan talked a good deal to D. too, and was 
 much interested in hearing of the Clay pigeon machine. 
 He is very fond of shooting, and has things thrown up 
 in the air for him to aim at, so this thing will please 
 him greatly. He told me that he wanted to get up 
 a concert in aid of some sufferers from earthquake 
 at Smyrna, and said that he wished me to take the 
 direction of it. (I hope my " colleagues " won't 
 mind.) 
 
 A servant always stands at a little distance, with 
 his eye fixed on the Sultan, and only approaches to 
 hand or to take away anything at a signal from him. 
 Indeed the servants all down the room are half 
 turned towards His Majesty, and have their hands 
 laid flat upon their stomachs. This attitude gives 
 a very submissive and frightened look to a human 
 being. 
 
 Nothing was handed to any one until the Sultan 
 had helped himself. Very good music went on all 
 the time, which was a comfort, as no one spoke but 
 ourselves. The Sultan never spoke to any one else, 
 so the Pashas don't gain much by dining with him. 
 
 At dessert, he picked out two large bonbons and 
 gave them to me for my children. When dinner was 
 over, he offered me his arm again, and we returned to 
 the room he had first received us in. 
 
 I again sat on the divan, Nelly opposite, D. and 
 Munir Bey next. The Sultan asked me if I minded 
 smoking, and then lit a cigarette. 
 
 He apologised once more for not having seen me 
 before, and then started a long admonition to Nelly. 
 " Your father tells me that you like drawing and do 
 
1883] AFTER DINNER 305 
 
 not care for music, but the two arts should go together, 
 and you would look so very well at the piano. I have 
 a first-rate professor, and I shall be happy to send 
 him to you " — and much more on the same subject. 
 D. said that, if ever she was idle again, he should ask 
 His Majesty to speak to her. It was verj^ amusing. 
 D. did a little business, and then, with many more 
 polite speeches, the Sultan congratulating D. upon 
 having " une femme et une fille si distinguees," we got 
 up and curtseyed and bowed, and were conducted to 
 the door. As soon as I got to the other room, where 
 all the Pashas were assembled, the Grand Vizier 
 brought me the Order of the Shefakat from the Sultan, 
 and all the Pashas helped me to put it on, and they 
 shook hands with me and congratulated me, for the 
 moment you receive any mark of the Sultan's favour 
 you rise at once to a great height in their estimation ! 
 
 I hear we made a most favourable impression on 
 the Grand Turk, and it amuses me, because all the 
 " colleagues " were in a state of excitement as to 
 how we should be received. 
 
 As a diplomatic precedence-squabble may amuse 
 you, I will give you an account of the first in which 
 I have been unwillingly mixed up. I have often heard 
 of them, but I never experienced one before. 
 
 The Sultan sent his Chamberlain, Munir Be}^, to 
 me on Thursday to repeat that His Majesty wished 
 to have a concert and a bazaar arranged, in order 
 to procure money for the poor of Smyrna, who have 
 lost their all through an earthquake. That the 
 Sultan desired that there should be a committee of 
 the Ambassadresses, and that I was to be the presi- 
 dent and manager of the whole affair. He (Munir) 
 was to go round to all the Embassies, and state this 
 distinctly as His Majesty's wish. When I received 
 the message I said I was very grateful to the Sultan, 
 and should be happy to carry out his wishes as well 
 
306 AFTER DINNER [ch. v 
 
 as I possibly could. " But," I said to Munir, " I must 
 tell you that the Austrian is the first Ambassadress 
 here, and that I am the second, so in giving the 
 Sultan's message to her, perhaps you could say that 
 her delicate health would, you understand, prevent 
 her from enduring the fatigue of herself arranging 
 such a business, and that therefore I would do it 
 instead, at the Sultan's request." 
 
 That is all that I thought I could do, and that 
 evening I went quite happily to dine with the Aus- 
 trians, and talked both to my hostess and to the other 
 Ambassadresses about it all. 
 
 However, after dinner, Baron Calici told me that 
 he could not accept the secondary position for his 
 wife. I told him that I had myself drawn Munir 's 
 attention to the difficulty, but that I thought less of 
 it, as I took it for granted Madame Calici was not 
 strong enough to do it. 
 
 He was very nice to me, but continued to repeat, 
 " We must find some way out of it," and also said 
 he should speak to the Sultan about it. 
 
 When I told D. all this, he went over next morn- 
 ing to see Baron Calici, and found him in exactly 
 the sarne frame of mind ; so we wrote to him in the 
 evening, and said that " it was needless to say that, 
 should he so arrange it with the Sultan, I would join 
 my colleagues in doing all I could to make the thing 
 successful under the presidency of Madame Calici.** 
 In fact, I have resigned, and am now waiting to 
 see what the Sultan says. Baron Calici goes to him 
 to-day. D. told him I had no wish for my name to 
 appear in any printed paper as " president," and 
 that in the advertisements our names should be placed 
 in their proper order. He seemed tolerably satisfied 
 with this, and said he would suggest it to Munir 
 Bey. 
 
 Late in the evening, {Saturday 20th), the Baron 
 
1883] A PRECEDENCE DIFFICULTY 307 
 
 came back, the Sultan had a toothache, and did not 
 receive him, so he made the above suggestions to 
 Munir, and then came to us and arranged that we 
 should not wait for any further orders from the 
 Sultan, but that we should meet at his house, that 
 his wife would then say to the assembled committee 
 that she, being doyenne, had called them together 
 to arrange a concert and bazaar at the Sultan's desire ; 
 but that, owing to her bad health, she felt unequal to 
 the task, and therefore that she begs Lady Dufferin, 
 who comes next in regular order of precedence, to 
 undertake the task. This arrangement suits me 
 perfectly, for, though appointed by the Sultan, I shall 
 take the place by right of seniority, so no one can 
 object. I will not close this history till the meeting 
 is over. 
 
 Monday, 22nd. — I arrived first, and the others 
 dropped in soon after, but the Russian Ambassadress 
 was rather late, which spoilt the effect of Madame 
 Calici's little speech, as it came in the middle instead 
 of the beginning. She managed it better than her 
 husband did, and said I had asked her, as doyenne, 
 to have the meeting at her house, etc., etc. The 
 rest of the business rather amused me. I had 
 written down all the things I wanted to have settled, 
 and I got them settled, and had everything done in 
 order. Both Baron Calici and his wife are so nice 
 and kind that I am very glad this all-important 
 question has been settled amicably. 
 
 November ^rd. — ^The Helicon, with the Admiral, 
 Lord John Hay, on board, and a whole host of sea- 
 captains, should have arrived yesterday, but, owing 
 to the usual delays of the Turks, the Firman per- 
 mitting the ship to pass through the Dardanelles was 
 not sent in time, and the ship was detained there 
 until it should be sent. There was great wrath about 
 it here, but the Admiral seems to have borne it with 
 
3o8 H.M.S. HELICON [ch. v 
 
 great calm, and to have utilised the time in thor- 
 oughly investigating the forts. He left Chanak 
 Friday morning, but the night was rough, and I 
 believe all the captains were so ill, that they anchored, 
 and only got here at three o'clock Saturday. 
 
 D. had just started for a sail, and, when we saw the 
 Helicon coming, Katie and I went down to the hotel 
 to see the arrival. While she steamed up to her buoy, 
 D. came back sailing proudly in to pick up his ; 
 the Tilburina, the other Embassy yacht, went out, 
 and boats from the Italian and French Stationnaires 
 started to pay short visits to the Admiral, and Arthur 
 in a tall hat and frock coat, and Major Trotter in 
 uniform, also went to welcome him, Nelly and D. 
 very soon going on board too. When Lord John 
 landed we met him on the quay, and walked home 
 with him, and then all the Captains called- — Captains 
 Rawson, Fairfax, Stephenson, Winsler. Lord John 
 and his Flag-Lieutenant, Mr. Tyrwhitt, are staying 
 in the house. They were all very glad to see fires 
 and tea. 
 
 Seven of them dined with us, and we were to be a 
 party of twenty. There was great discussion over 
 the arrangement at table, as an Ambassador and a 
 Minister were to dine, and yet the dinner was to 
 Lord John. However, we decided to keep to the 
 letter of the law, and to send the Diplomat first — 
 Fancy our feelings, therefore, when, just before 
 dinner, a second Ambassador was announced. 
 
 Baron Calici had mistaken my invitation for the 
 evening to be one for dmner, and there he was, the 
 very top of the list. 
 
 We had to put in a place, and to rearrange the 
 whole, but it was beautifully done by Arthur, and 
 no one found out that we had an unexpected guest. 
 To show you, however, the care one has to take about 
 details, we had put the people's names at their places. 
 
1883] DINNER TO LORD JOHN HAY 309 
 
 In the hurry of adding one, Baron Calici's was written 
 too quickly, and was rather untidy, and the card had 
 his name on it instead of " Ambassadeur d'Autriche- 
 Hongrie." He kept looking at this, as if he was going 
 to keep it, so I took it up and tore it ; upon which 
 he said, " I am sorry you tore it. I should like to 
 have kept it as a souvenir, as one would be sure never 
 to get such a card at another dinner." Only that 
 he was so very good-humoured as he spoke, I should 
 have thought he meant to be disagreeable. I said 
 to myself, " If you only knew what a thunder-clap 
 your arrival was, you would be surprised how well 
 we have concealed it." This dinner and whole 
 entertainment really was a tour-de-force, and reflected 
 great credit upon Nowell. On Friday morning he 
 was told we should be sixteen at dinner, and made 
 arrangements accordingly ; on Friday evening he 
 was told we should be twenty at dinner, and would 
 have a dance, to which eighty people were asked. 
 He had, on the morning of the day, to send up to 
 town for a table, large table-cloths, more glass, plate, 
 etc., and the cook, who was short of provisions, had 
 also to exert himself. They succeeded admirably, 
 and nothing could have gone off better. 
 
 We danced in our round room, and every one seemed 
 to enjoy it. Lord John says that, last time he was 
 here, all the Ambassadors were very solemn and 
 pompous, and he was surprised to see them all dancing. 
 He said to M. de Radowitz, " You seem to be fond of 
 dancing." Upon which he replied, ** What is the 
 use of being Ambassador here if you don't dance ? " 
 and started off again. 
 
 We were supposed to end at twelve, but it was nearly 
 two when I got to bed. 
 
 We have to go on with a series of dinners while 
 the Admiral is here. After one dinner (fourteen) 
 we had singing, and after another (sixteen) people 
 
310 CHARITY CONCERT [ch. v 
 
 talked and sang a very little. The weather has taken 
 a fine turn, after days of storm, and on Monday we 
 went to sail, and found the sun quite hot and no wind. 
 D. had to take the Admiral down to pay his visits at 
 the Porte, and the Sultan gives him a dinner on 
 Tuesday. D. has had enough of dining at the Palace. 
 This is the third time he has been lately. 
 
 Wednesday, November 14th. — ^The Admiral left us 
 on Saturday. His visit was successful, the weather 
 having been quite lovely. 
 
 The rehearsals for the concert took place. The 
 music is all amateur and bad, but nothing is long, 
 and the constant change of performers amuses 
 people. 
 
 I was kept very busy over the tickets. The Palace 
 having waited till the last moment, the Sultan suddenly 
 sent for seven hundred tickets ! I had to get them 
 printed as quickly as I could, and there was some 
 trouble over that. He took five hundred for himself, 
 and made his surroundings take the others. The 
 Wyndhams lunched with us, and we went to the 
 steamer to see them off to England. They had quite 
 a beau depart, every one coming down to say good- 
 bye to them. We are very sorry to lose them, and 
 fear tfiey may not return. 
 
 Then came the Concert. It was quite a brilliant 
 assembly for this place, and with gifts, etc., we shall 
 have made about ;^ 1,800. During the concert the 
 Sultan sent me his ;£soo in a bag, and Mr. Blared 
 walked home with it and locked it up. 
 
 The question now arises, " What is to be done with 
 the money ? How make sure that it reaches its 
 destination ? " After much deliberation, we decided 
 to ask the Sultan to appoint a Turkish official to go 
 with our treasurer to see that it is properly spent, 
 and " would His Majesty allow us to name a delegate 
 to send with it ? " He has accepted that suggestion. 
 
1883] THE CHARITY BAZAAR 311 
 
 I wanted to choose our Military Attache, Major 
 Trotter, who arranged all the money sent to Chios, 
 but the other Embassies evidently objected to an 
 Englishman being selected, and, after some discussion 
 at a five o'clock tea meeting I had here to-day, we 
 decided to ask the Ottoman Bank, where the money 
 is lodged, to send some one with it. I have not yet 
 heard if they can do so. 
 
 We had rather a nice dinner, fourteen people, and 
 some strangers, which makes an agreeable change here. 
 The chief guests were the " Hobes." He is a German, 
 and is the Sultan's " Master of the Horse." Both he 
 and his wife are very nice. 
 
 November 24th. — It is settled that M. Lafontaine, 
 Secretary of the Ottoman Bank, is to take the money 
 to Tchesme. He is an Englishman, but he has a foreign 
 name, so every one is pleased. Mr. Pender has sent 
 me a hundred pounds' worth of things for my bazaar, 
 and the " Nordenfeldt Gun " is going to spend a 
 hundred on a fine Christmas-tree, so now there are 
 only two anxieties — where to have the sale, and will 
 the things I have ordered from London come in time ? 
 They only left the seventeenth. 
 
 Monday, December 2>i^d. — ^The vexed question of 
 where the bazaar is to be is settled at last. I had 
 offered our Embassy, so had the French, and so had 
 the Russians. When I saw the Russian I thought it 
 was more suitable than ours for the purpose, so gave 
 my vote for it, and we feel quite relieved now that 
 it is settled. 
 
 December, 1883. — I am delighted to have been able 
 to send some one we could trust with the money to 
 Tchesme, as it certainly would not have been wisely 
 spent by the Turks. The Delegate telegraphs, " Am 
 leaving for Tchesme to distribute relief personally. 
 Have undertaken very difficult task with insufficient 
 funds and large demands to meet." I hope the 
 21 
 
312 HAREM VISITS [ch. v 
 
 bazaar will make a good deal, but I don't see that it 
 can do very much as compared with the £1,900 of the 
 concert. 
 
 In the afternoon, in spite of pouring rain, I went 
 to see Princess Fatmah, a sister of the Khedive's, who 
 is here. We had to go in the steam launch, and I 
 took the Greeks with me. Princess Fatmah is a 
 very pretty woman ; painted, of course, but so very well 
 done that it does not strike one as " got-up " ; reddish 
 hair, lovely complexion, and dark eye-brows. She 
 speaks French, and seems really a nice person. There 
 is a German governess there whom we knew before, 
 and she met us at the door. There was a smart 
 array of slaves in the " Harem," and the Princess 
 herself, in a handsome stamped velvet gown, a diamond 
 comb at the side of her head, and little turban 
 above it. She had splendid rings and earrings, and 
 a brooch like a dead bird, all in jewels. On a table 
 before her was a gold salver set in diamonds, and the 
 most lovely little saucers and cigarette-tubes, with 
 large precious stones in them, the mouth-pieces being 
 emeralds. The coffee-cups were also set with rubies 
 and diamonds, and they were handed by a fat young 
 man. Madame Condouriotti ^ said in French, for- 
 getting she would be understood, " That's a girl." The 
 Princess burst out laughing and said, " You did not 
 expect to find boys in here ? " We asked to see her 
 children, and they came in, a very nice boy and girl. 
 She seemed so fond of them, and made the boy 
 translate for her into English. 
 
 She has been a widow many years. When the 
 troubles broke out in Alexandria she sent her children 
 here, and when she wanted to come here herself, 
 knowing that the Sultan cannot bear the descendants 
 of Mehemet Ali, she got the children to write a petition 
 saying that they were the children of " a Prince," 
 ^ Wife of the Greek Minister. 
 
 2^1 
 
1883] BUSY DAYS 313 
 
 that their mother was a widow, and wanted to come 
 to them. 
 
 The Sultan did not notice who she was, and gave 
 permission. She thinks this place suits her health 
 and has bought a house here. I don't know how it 
 was I did not know her at Cairo. She is sister to 
 Princess Mansour, but is stricter in her Turkish ways, 
 though even she seems much bored by them, does 
 not care to go out, and speaks of the trouble of the 
 yashmak — " toute cette Histoire," to prepare for the 
 public gaze. 
 
 I have been busy preparing for a dinner and dance 
 on Monday. All the Ambassadors and Ministers 
 and some Turks, and in the evening a hundred and 
 fifty guests are asked. I wrote all the invitations 
 myself. 
 
 I generally have a good many visitors now at five, 
 for I have not begun a " day," and so they expect 
 to find me at home every day at that time. They all 
 like my room, which, with its Sheridan pictures, looks 
 different from any other here. 
 
 I am rather anxious about the arrival of all my 
 bazaar goods; it will be terrible if they are late. I 
 think I told you what funny things I have been 
 sent ; biscuits, boot-blacking, knife-polish, etc. Mr. 
 Pender's i^^ioo is my great stand-by, but the Germans 
 will cut us all out, as their Royalties have sent ;^330, 
 besides presents to sell. I am going to unpack all 
 my china now and price it, which will be rather 
 amusing. 
 
 Tuesday, December 4th. — I have been so extremely 
 busy the last few days that I am quite puzzled as 
 to the exact date at which anything happened, but 
 I must try and give you a faint idea of my doings. 
 On Wednesday morning Madame Wallenberg came 
 in early to discourse upon the " Christmas-tree " 
 and the bazaar, and we set to work and priced a 
 
^14 FIRE AT HASKEUI [ch. v 
 
 quantity of things that have arrived for it. While 
 so engaged a servant came and told me there was 
 a fire, and I looked out of the window, but was 
 much too busy to attend to the smoke I saw. 
 After lunch we went a short ride and when we 
 got on the hills we found the wind so high we 
 could hardly keep on our horses and the smoke kept 
 blowing in our faces from the fire. Then we came 
 to a place where the poor burnt-out people were. 
 Looking down the hill, we could see the houses burn- 
 ing, and all round the top of it were thousands of 
 people with their bedding and the things they were 
 able to save lying out on the grass. The burning 
 quarter was the poorest of the town, and was inhabited 
 by Jews. I believe they might have got shelter at 
 night, but they could not bear to leave their things, 
 and the consequence was that they would stay with 
 them and were exposed to the most awful weather 
 — wind, rain, and snow ! Several children died and 
 three women were confined, and the sufferings must 
 have been awful. I came home and had a meeting 
 about the bazaar that afternoon. 
 
 Thursday, 6th. — ^When I came down to breakfast 
 I found a letter from Mr. Rous (the Nordenfeldt gun), 
 suggesting that the Christmas-tree should be for the 
 sufferers by this fire instead of for the earthquake 
 people. I agreed. 
 
 Then I had to write off to every one I could think 
 of to ask them to sell tickets at once and to tell them 
 of the change. This took all the morning — before 
 I had finished lunch people came to buy the tickets, 
 and I had to sign each one, count the money, etc. 
 
 Friday, yth. — ^The tickets for the Tree are selling 
 so fast that they cause me the greatest anxiety. 
 Some people think that in the cause of charity one 
 may do anything, but I am anxious to conduct the 
 business honestly, and only to have a fair amount of 
 
1883] REFUGEES AT HASKEUI 315 
 
 blanks, and to be able to accommodate the people 
 who come. 
 
 I managed to get a little ride in the afternoon, but 
 otherwise I worked with my pen all the morning and 
 had interviews all the afternoon, and long discussions 
 as to the system to be carried out. I did some bazaar 
 work too, and also had some distressed ladies coming 
 to me for advice. I can't tell you the hundred and 
 one things that turn up to be done. 
 
 Saturday, Sih. — Writing from 9.30 till 12. Then 
 went to Russian Embassy, and was there till four. 
 Great discussion over tableaux and about the arrange- 
 ment of the rooms for the bazaar. It will really be 
 very pretty as we have arranged it. They give four 
 rooms for the purpose. Then, on my return home, 
 [adame Fernandez (the rich Jewess of the place), 
 :ame to me about the burnt-out people and I am 
 joing with her at nine to-morrow to see them. The 
 rermans and the Bank people all came afterwards, 
 10 that it was half-past five before I was alone. Then 
 
 wrote to acquaint " France " and " Austria " of 
 the arrangements made to-day, and then I began to 
 scribble this off as fast as I could write ! 
 
 I have not explained well that the Christmas-tree 
 will be in this house on the twenty-ninth. 
 
 The Bazaar is to be the 20th and 21st, and evening 
 of 22nd. 
 
 Sunday, gth. — Madame Fernandez came for me 
 at nine o'clock, and we drove in a hired carriage to 
 Haskeui. The road there was dreadful, and we seemed 
 to be constantly on the verge of upsetting. We went 
 first to an English missionary establishment, where 
 there are two hundred refugees. There seemed to 
 be about four families in each room, and they were 
 warming their fingers over small charcoal braziers. 
 My Jewish friend seemed to think they were pretty 
 comfortable, and I had to remind her that it was 
 
3i6 THE TREE AND THE BAZAAR [ch. v 
 
 through charity they were so. I left ten pounds 
 (tree money) and have sent twenty pounds since, 
 which is to be spent on coverings (" Yorgans " they 
 call them), thick-quilted counterpanes. Then we went 
 on to the Barracks, where the crowding is fearful. 
 Each family has about a square yard of space to live 
 in. Of course we only saw a specimen, about ten 
 rooms full, for we could do no good. I suggested 
 that the first desideratum was that the sick should 
 be separated from the other people, and I think a 
 soup-kitchen is badly needed ; but organisation is 
 very bad here, and I don't think there is much 
 chance of managing that. 
 
 The tree has already made over five hundred pounds. 
 Large sums, such as one thousand pounds from Baron 
 Hirsch, are to be spent on building little huts, for as 
 the people live by small industries, the moment they 
 get space enough they can begin their usual mode of 
 existence. These huts will be on the ground, and 
 will be damp and wretched, but all agree that this 
 is all that can be done just now. (Interrupted here 
 to see two missionaries with two lady helps.) 
 
 Monday, loth. — The Sultan is complicating our 
 bazaar terribly. At the last moment he goes and 
 buys hundreds of pounds' worth of things, here, and 
 sets up a stall with Madame Hobe to sell for him 1 
 and we have such lots of things, and want buyers I 
 I always feel he may spring a mine on us and ruin 
 everything ! It is dreadful having to do with people 
 who live out of the world and don't know how to do 
 things. 
 
 I continue to be too busy, and am also in a great 
 state of mind about the boxes for the bazaar. Two 
 of the most important have not arrived. I have 
 sold six hundred pounds' worth of tickets for the tree, 
 and am only alarmed lest 2,000 people should come. 
 Several people have many tickets, so I hope there 
 
1883] THE BAZAAR 317 
 
 will not be more than a thousand people to draw. 
 Even that is fearful. Then there are to be tableaux 
 vivants against which we all struggled to no purpose ; 
 and, not to appear disagreeable about it, I am letting 
 two of the children appear in them. They are to be 
 a Marquis and a Marquise (Louis XV), and are to do, 
 in four tableaux, Le Mariage d, la Mode. 
 
 I still have endless writing, for, though I have 
 stopped the sale of tickets, there is a great deal to do 
 in connection with them. 
 
 December 2^th. — I write at the end of the week, 
 and have to tell you about the bazaar, which occupied 
 all my thoughts and all my time for several days. 
 
 On Monday I began my preparations, but I need 
 only try to describe to you the finished effect of my 
 stall. Behind it were three panels which were hung 
 and draped in crimson. In the side ones there were 
 beautiful embroideries at the top, and shelves of 
 china for sale. In the centre one a portrait of the 
 Sultan's father (as none of himself could be found) 
 and at the foot of it a stand of flowers. There was 
 no table in front of this centre panel, but on either 
 side of it I had large tables covered with crimson and 
 draped with oriental material, and at each end large 
 Stageres. 
 
 Germany was selling Japanese and Spanish things, 
 and her young ladies were in costume. France had 
 only expensive things, and I don't know yet what she 
 made. 
 
 Neither the Lord Mayor of London's box nor a 
 large order I had sent to England had arrived, and 
 I was dependent upon a handsome present I had 
 from Mr. Pender and upon £$0 of china I had bought 
 myself to begin with. 
 
 With this I opened on Thursday at one o'clock. 
 There really were not a great many people there, 
 but my china was soon cleared, and I was glad when, 
 
3i8 THE BAZAAR [ch. v. 
 
 about three o'clock, I heard the Lord Mayor's box 
 had arrived and I could replenish my tables for the 
 evening. 
 
 It contained a curious lot of things, many of them 
 highly appreciated : soap, needles, blacking, knife- 
 polish, a bed, biscuits, etc. We sold from eight till 
 eleven, and I was again getting very low in the world 
 when a box of really very pretty fancy-work arrived, 
 and so I got on till Friday. I was in despair then to 
 see how little I had left, when lo ! my last case reached 
 the Embassy at one o'clock. Katie and Blackwell 
 unpacked and priced it and sent it on to me. When 
 the people saw the things coming in they rushed to 
 my stall, and I could scarcely take the things out 
 before they were seized : the writing-paper which I 
 had sent for had an enormous success, but I had to 
 sell in such a hurry that I let it go rather too cheap. 
 Had I been able to take the things out quietly and 
 price them I should have made more. 
 
 Nelly worked hard, and did wonders with her Fish- 
 pond. She took eighty-five pounds in francs. All 
 our Embassy were so nice, as they always are, and 
 helped with all their might. Mr. Bland and Mr. 
 Hardinge worked at the Fish-pond, Mr. and Mrs. 
 Goschen helped me, and I had of course several other 
 ladies. Mr. Hardinge and Mr. Goschen also did all 
 the decoration of my stall. 
 
 The buffet was in the first room and my three 
 children helped there. Freddy and Teddie Goschen 
 were dressed as cooks, they enjoyed themselves 
 immensely and showed great talent for commercial 
 pursuits. 
 
 The Austrians had sent their Embassy £300 and 
 a case of guns from the Emperor, the Germans ditto, 
 and the Sultan bought their gifts for large sums, 
 whereas he only spent £20 at my stall, for which I 
 gave him things to the value of £16; so I started at 
 
i883] THE CHRISTMAS TREE 319 
 
 a disadvantage. I feared I should be far behind 
 the other stalls ; however, I made (clear profit) at my 
 stall ;£474, and, as the Lord Mayor sent £275 through 
 me to Tchesme, I count it and make £749. The 
 Austrians made ;^6oo with their presents, and the 
 Germans ;^4i4 with theirs. We have ;^ 1,999 iri hand, 
 and we still have three important stalls to get the 
 accounts of. 
 
 I think we all enjoyed this bazaar, and when the 
 bell rang at the end of it on Saturday evening I felt 
 truly glad that we had got through it and had no 
 quarrel or disagreement with anybody. We all 
 ended in the best of humours, delighted with our- 
 selves and with each other and with the success of 
 the undertaking ! 
 
 And now I have to devote myself to the Tree. 
 
 Friday, 2Sth. — My last charitable venture for the 
 year is over and it was, I am glad to say, a great 
 success. I don't think I ever saw a prettier sight 
 than the Hall and its Christmas-tree were. The 
 Hall is an inner court paved with marble and roofed 
 with glass. It is the whole height of the house, and 
 was eminently safe and suitable for a gigantic Christ- 
 mas-tree. It was decorated with flags and had a 
 line of little lamps all the way round it and Chinese 
 lanterns hung across it, so that there was a great deal 
 of colour about it. The tree was very tall, and was 
 covered with glass balls and gold fishes and little 
 flags and small lamps and all sorts of ornaments and 
 bon-bon boxes, and at one end of the Hall was a 
 long table with 1,100 presents spread upon it. A band 
 played, and there were crowds of people, and it made 
 over ;^700 pounds. 
 
 The decoration took two days, we all worked at it, 
 and it was very amusing. I am glad, however, to 
 have all these great labours over. I may now give 
 you the sum-total of what I have helped to make in 
 
320 TOTAL PROFITS [ch. v 
 
 charitable entertainments this year. It is a curious 
 chance that I should have been asked to manage 
 so many things in so short a time. I write " I," 
 but I could not have succeeded in any of these things 
 but for D.'s sympathy and support, and the help I 
 had from all our Embassy. Every one worked hard 
 to make these efforts successful. 
 
 Ball at Cairo ...... 
 
 Church at Cairo : Garden FSte . . , 
 
 Fish-pond, London, for English Church at Berlin 
 Concert : Tchesme, Constantinople 
 Bazaar : Tchesm6, Constantinople 
 Christmas Tree : Fire at Haskeui . 
 
 ;£2,400 
 
 1,900 
 
 2,700 
 
 700 
 
 Sent through me by Lord Mayor of London for 
 
 Tchesm6 ....... 275 
 
 Clear profits . . ..... i^.5'i■^ 
 
 The weather is perfectly odious, so wet and cold. 
 The children have had a very happy time, first the 
 bazaar, which was a great pleasure to the little 
 cooks, then a Christmas-tree at the Germans' and 
 a tea-party at the Greeks* (whom they helped at 
 the bazaar) then our Christmas festivities, and lastly 
 our gfeat Tree, and now we must all settle down 
 quietly, and, as D. says, " return to domestic duties.'* 
 Mine have been greatly interrupted, first by the 
 amount of writing these things entailed, and then by 
 all the putting up of stalls and various decorations. 
 I still have innumerable letters of thanks to write. 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 Saturday, January 4th. — I saw Mr. Wrench about a 
 plan for getting out some nurses for this place. I have 
 also visited a Greek charity for work-women, and took 
 upon me to buy fifty pounds' worth of their clothes 
 to send to Tchesm^. I shall probably buy more of 
 these, as Ralli Brothers are sending me money from 
 Manchester. 
 
 I was trying to keep back some of our bazaar 
 funds till April, but the Sultan has issued an Irade 
 to say it is to go at once ; so I have handed over 
 £2,600 to the care of the Ottoman Bank official and 
 the committee at Tchesme. I also send them the 
 clothes I buy here.* 
 
 January 26th. — I do not think I have ever men- 
 tioned to you our Dorcas Society, a very good inter- 
 national charity here, managed by the English. I 
 have been attending the meetings, and proposed some 
 new rules which were passed by the Committee ; upon 
 which the President retired, and left me to carry out 
 the reforms myself, which I now have to do. 
 
 I put all our books before the manager of the Bank 
 here and asked him and two other men to start us 
 with a clear method of keeping all the necessary 
 
 * The distribution was most carefully done by the delegates, and 
 receipts were taken for every penny that was given out. When all 
 was finished the whole of these receipts were sent me in a book. — H. D. 
 
 321 
 
322 THE DORCAS SOCIETY [ch. vi 
 
 records and accounts of the Society ; there were 
 other questions for them to decide, and it is very satis- 
 factory to have this Court of Appeal estabhshed. 
 
 We are by way of giving needlework to the poor 
 women, but there never seemed to be any to give, so, 
 in the hope of getting regular orders, I wrote to the 
 prison, the Hospital, the Sailors' Home, and the 
 Bank, and have already got the prison clothes and all 
 the money-bags at the Bank — a good beginning. 
 
 January 31st, — ^We are working at two plays we 
 mean to do in about a fortnight : My Uncle's Will, 
 and Our Bitterest Foe ; so we have rehearsals for 
 these, and there are a good many gaieties going on, 
 as all the Embassies and Legations have dances 
 during the season here — amongst other things, a Ball 
 at the Russian Embassy and the tableaux vivants for 
 the Haskeui fire. They were very pretty and suc- 
 cessful and I thought my two children looked charm- 
 ing in their four scenes oi Mariage d la Mode. 
 
 Monday, loth. — I went to the " Dorcas Meeting " 
 and found the house invaded by " cases." They 
 lined the stairs and filled the hall, and as they all 
 speak unknown tongues I looked on in bewilderment. 
 However, the Financial Committee arrived with the 
 new books, and it was delightful to see order coming 
 into the concern. I also went to see two of our 
 cases at a small hospital, which is nicely kept. It 
 is called the " Geremiah " — not after the prophet, as 
 you may see by the G. 
 
 Friday, March 6th. — ^The Bishop of Gibraltar came 
 to stay with us. He told us that his diocese spreads 
 from Gibraltar to Tiflis. He has no home, and is 
 always travelling. Once when asked by some one 
 where his palace was, he replied, " My palace is in my 
 portmanteau." " Oh ! " said the lady, " I thought I 
 knew all the ports of the Mediterranean, but I never 
 heard of Port Manteau." Before being made bishop 
 
» 
 
 i884] THE DORCAS SOCIETY 323 
 
 he had a very small parish, about which he always 
 walked. When about to leave it he tried to explain 
 to an old woman the size of his new " parish," and, 
 having taken it well in, she said, " Well, you'll have to 
 keep a pony now." His name is Sandford, and he 
 used to be a great cricketer. He and D. were at 
 Christchurch together. 
 
 Monday, iSth. — Lord and Lady Wolmer arrived 
 here this morning in a snowstorm, and were very wet 
 and cold when they got here. 
 
 Friday, 22nd. — ^They went to the Selamnik and 
 had a great day with the Sultan. Having heard that 
 Lady Wolmer was Lord Salisbury's daughter, he 
 treated them with the greatest distinction, saw them 
 both, sent them round his stables, in charge of Osman 
 and Dervish Pasha, General Hobe, and Munir Bey, 
 gave them lunch in a kiosk in his garden, wanted to 
 decorate them both, sent them back in his carriage, 
 and said all his horses and carriages were at their 
 disposal while they remained here. 
 
 We had the theatricals I told you of, and a dance 
 after. I have such a very good " Company " in the 
 Embassy here that we make this our special kind of 
 entertainment. Both our plays were very much 
 liked, and of course we enjoyed doing them. 
 
 March 6th. — ^The Grand Rabbi came to thank me 
 for my exertions on behalf of his people. Ancient 
 history by this time ; the Christmas-tree was for them ! 
 
 April gth. — Nelly and I started for Athens to-day. 
 The wind howled in a way that made us dread 
 the passage, but I am happy to say it turned out 
 to be a purely local gale. D. came on board to 
 see us off, and we found Count Corti there. It was 
 an Italian ship, so he was giving orders for our 
 comfort. The Captain in consequence looked after us 
 well, and, finding I would not have any tea in the 
 evening, suggested " one poonch." 
 
324 ATHENS [ch. vi 
 
 Friday, nth. — ^We arrived early at Athens, and 
 Arthur, who is " in charge " here, came down to fetch 
 us at eight a.m. We found Katie looking very well. 
 He took Nelly and me a drive in the afternoon, and 
 showed her one or two sights, but as I must have given 
 my impressions of all I saw here two years ago, I wash 
 my hands of all attempt at description of places or 
 things, and keep to the purely domestic details. 
 
 Saturday, 12th. — I felt bound to call upon all the 
 Diplomats and people I had known here before, so I 
 visited first. Miss Tricoupi, the sister, counsellor, and 
 secretary of the Prime Minister. 
 
 Monday, i6th. — ^The day was lovely, and we drove 
 to Daphne, and looked at the Bay of Salamis, and 
 on our return Nelly and Arthur energetically climbed 
 up Lykabettus, and only came back in time for dinner. 
 
 Friday, i8th. — ^We heard vague rumours of pro- 
 cessions on this (Greek) Good Friday night, but every 
 one said they were not worth seeing. However, just 
 as we were saying good-night we heard a band playing, 
 and we went out on the balcony to see what was going 
 on. All the houses near had people on the balconies 
 holding lighted candles, there were rockets going up 
 and stars walking about in the distance ; so we decided 
 to put on morning gowns and go out to look. We were 
 a little late for the best part of the performance, but 
 we saw a great deal that was interesting. It seems 
 that at a certain hour crowds meet in the Cathedral 
 and then they break into separate processions, every 
 person carrying a lighted taper, and all following a 
 bier or a representation of the dead Christ. Each 
 procession walks round its own church, and all the 
 houses on the streets are illuminated and the balconies 
 crowded, and, as you look up at them you see hands 
 moving quickly as they make the sign of the cross. 
 It really is a very striking thing, this universal illumina- 
 tion, especially when one remembers what the object 
 
i884] RETURN TO CONSTANTINOPLE 325 
 
 of it is, and the walking candlesticks have a fine 
 effect as they go down a street. Men, women, and 
 children were all out, and every one had a candle. 
 There was not, however, anything very reUgious in 
 the appearance of the people. They were quiet, 
 orderly, and good-tempered, but not at all solemn or 
 overawed. Last year the Prime Minister tried to put 
 an end to this custom, but it evidently is considered 
 a national one, and he failed utterly. Fireworks of 
 all kinds went on day and night, and with each pro- 
 cession a band played minor music, while regiments of 
 soldiers walked with them. 
 
 April 2gth. — Safe back home again ! and very nice 
 it is. Every one so glad to see us, and D. declaring 
 that his house had been intolerably lonely ! He had 
 also been listening to a howling wind and pitying us, 
 but we really had a lovely passage. The journey 
 from Athens is an interesting one, for all the " out-of- 
 sight-of-land " part is in the night, and all the day 
 one sees terra-firma, and, as an enthusiastic tourist 
 kept telling me, " the most classic spots you can look 
 upon." Tenedos, the Plains of Troy, Europe and 
 Asia within pistol-shot of each other, etc., etc., and 
 then, when you have passed through the Dardanelles, 
 you come upon the islands of the Marmora . 
 
 We were very thankful for the good weather, for 
 our Captain told us there was absolutely nothing in 
 the ship, and she would have rolled pitilessly on the 
 smallest provocation. 
 
 I found it summer here, and our garden was so 
 nice in the afternoon that we had tea there. 
 
 Friday, 2$th. — ^The Bishop of Gibraltar consecrated 
 our little church at Therapia to-day, " St. Mary's." 
 We all went down there in the Bittern, lunched 
 at Therapia, and got back at six, having called on 
 Princess Halim on our way back. The children 
 enjoyed themselves on board ship immensely, and 
 
326 OUR GARDEN [Ch. vi 
 
 the grown-up people liked the holiday. Unfortu- 
 nately, there was some Black Sea fog which was chilly. 
 The church looked very nice, and the four clergymen 
 were almost too many for it. 
 
 May $th. — ^We had some more theatricals and this 
 time did The Happy Pair, and Our Wife, the latter 
 a costume piece. We introduced the Singing quad- 
 rilles and part of a minuet, and the whole was very 
 pretty and a great success. 
 
 May 6th. — ^We went to hear a Russian choir of 
 forty-five — girls, boys, men, and women. It was at 
 the Russian Embassy. All the singers wore gorgeous 
 costumes, ancient Tartar ones, and Slavanski, the 
 leader, standing on a raised stool looked like a splendid 
 oriental Sovereign. The sight was very fine, and the 
 singing beautiful. The audience was most enthusi- 
 astic, and encored them over and over again. 
 
 May iSth. — Mrs. Goschen, Nelly, and I spent the 
 day in the garden, and a good number of people came 
 to see us, and walked about enjojdng this oasis in the 
 middle of Pera. It is lovely at this time of the year. 
 There are successions of flowering trees ; directly the 
 Judas tree is over, the acacias and chestnuts, pink 
 and white, come out. I do not know whether the 
 " Judas " tree is peculiar to the Bosphorus or not, 
 but at any rate there are great quantities of it along 
 its banks. It is a good-sized tree, and when in flower 
 it is a pink mass. The leaves come later, and for a 
 time the flowers monopolise the whole of the tree, 
 sometimes even creeping on to the trunk and appear- 
 ing in bright patches on the rough bark. We had 
 half an hour's excitement pursuing Nelly's parrot, 
 which had escaped, but which was finally captured 
 and brought down wrapped in a shawl from the top 
 of a high tree. 
 
 May 2gth. — ^We lent the garden to Mrs. Newman 
 for a Charity Fete in aid of her school for bringing up 
 
1884] OUR YACHTS 327 
 
 destitute girls as servants. The weather kept us 
 very anxious beforehand, but happily it was a very 
 nice day, and all the people who came seemed to 
 enjoy it. There was a band in one part of the garden 
 and in another there was singing to be heard, English 
 glees and German songs. There were a refreshment 
 table and a bran- tub. The garden looked very gay, 
 and the charity thinks it has made ^118. 
 
 Friday, T,oth. — ^The weather causes us the greatest 
 anxiety. It is simply vile, and we were all ready to 
 start on a yachting expedition, about which I shall 
 send you a separate letter, when it comes off. 
 
 Saturday, May 315^. — Fine ! We made sure of 
 that, early in the morning, and by ten o'clock we 
 were all ready to start. We ladies had on our sea- 
 gowns, and the gentlemen appeared in navy blue and 
 nautical buttons. Numerous little bags and parcels, 
 hampers, and tin cases were sent off, and then we 
 followed, driving down to Tophane. I joined D. in 
 the Hermione, and received a farewell visit from the 
 Russian Ambassador on board. He was much struck 
 with the fact of our going quite alone, and with the 
 appearance of my cabin, which during the day is full 
 of ropes and boats, and wheels, etc., and looks very 
 unlike a lady's bedroom. It really is a covered well, 
 for the Hermione is only 2| tons, and the Tilburina 
 10 tons ; she is owned by Mr. Goschen and Mr. 
 Hardinge. We had a delightful sail to the Islands 
 and reached our harbour in time for lunch ; we got 
 out all our pots and pans, and settled that this meal 
 should be a cold one, but that at all future times 
 hot dishes should be provided (cooked by ourselves). 
 D. went out sailing again, but Mr. and Mrs. Goschen, 
 Mr. Hardinge, and I went on shore and enjoyed the 
 pine woods and the view, and the change from town. 
 Our island, " Halki," is a very pretty one, and, except 
 for a college on the heights, it looks quite countrified. 
 22 
 
328 A YACHTING TOUR [ch. vi 
 
 D. came back in time to give us some tea on the 
 Hermione, and then we soon had to begin our cooking 
 for dinner. After dinner we sat out in the moonlight 
 till bedtime. 
 
 Sunday, June ist. — ^Mr. Hardinge made a large 
 supply of cocoa, and sent us up a bowl-full, supplying 
 his own ship too. When we were dressed we rowed 
 about the bay, and examined the coast to see how 
 near the ships could get in. Then we sailed round 
 the island of Antigone, D. and I getting back at six, 
 the others rather sooner. We took a lovely walk on 
 shore ; the scenery is very Italian, and one feels far 
 away from Constantinople. 
 
 Monday, June 2nd. — Having had our early cocoa 
 and a row, and our breakfast, we went for another 
 row in the Tilburina's gig, and, leaving the harbour, 
 went close round the coast of the island, which is 
 very rocky and precipitous. We gazed down at the 
 bottom of the sea, which was perfectly lovely with 
 many-coloured seaweeds. Then we sailed again, the 
 wind being very light, and made for Mal-Tepe, a 
 village on the coast of Asia, where we settled to lunch. 
 There we sat for some time, looking at the ceremony of 
 blessing a new boat, which was being performed close 
 to us — at some boats with a mast in each, on the top 
 of which a man stood, looking out for sword-fish, 
 and at the village which lay before us. When we 
 did start we only flopped about for an hour or so, 
 when the steam launch, which had been ordered to 
 come and look for us to-day, if it were calm, was 
 descried in the distance, and, coming up to us, took 
 us back. We got home at 9 p.m., and all dined 
 together in our yachting garments, and with very 
 burnt faces and hands. 
 
 I forgot to mention that, as we lay at anchor in the 
 harbour on the first night, a long caique suddenly 
 came round the bay ; it was filled with men, and there 
 
1884] CARRIAGE ACCIDENT 329 
 
 was one standing up dancing very gracefully. He 
 looked most picturesque in the moonlight. 
 
 Tuesday, -^rd. — D. had a very narrow escape of an 
 accident. He took a hired carriage to go down to his 
 boat. The road is very steep, and is in fearfully bad 
 order ; the horses ran away, banged the carriage up 
 against a house, which bump just gave D. and Mr. 
 Macferran time to get out. They then rushed against 
 another building, knocking the coachman off, and 
 went wildly down the very crowded street. Several 
 people were hurt, and the populace got so angry about 
 it that when the coachman came running after his 
 carriage they seized him and would have beaten him 
 badly had not D. tucked him under his arm and 
 gesticulated to them. The man was handed over to 
 the safe keeping of the police, and some one whispered 
 to D. in French, " You had better get away as quickly 
 as you can," which he did. 
 
 When he came home he went and got the coachman 
 released, and explained that he had behaved very 
 well. The Sultan sent his Chamberlain to inquire 
 the moment he heard of D.'s accident, and, as all the 
 Ambassadors and Ambassadresses kept pouring in 
 congratulations, I began to understand that he really 
 had had a narrow escape, and that, sitting peacefully 
 in the garden I had very little idea of the gravity of 
 the circumstances. 
 
 June gth. — ^The Pera season is ended and to-day 
 we are preparing for our move to Therapia. 
 
 Tuesday, June loth. — ^We left Pera at 10 a.m., 
 and went on board the Bittern, where Count Corti 
 joined us for a trip to Broussa, while our move to 
 Therapia is being made. The children were to spend 
 the day at Kadikeui, and to-morrow they go to 
 Therapia, We had a delightful day on board. Cap- 
 tain Mann made us very comfortable, and it was 
 perfectly calm, not too hot, and very pretty. We 
 
330 BROUSSA [CH. vi 
 
 reached Mudania at four, and got into a carriage 
 for a three-hours' drive. We had one of " Cook's " 
 dragomans to make all the arrangements for us. 
 
 Broussa is at the foot of Mount Olympus, and all 
 the scenery surrounding it and on the way there, is 
 quite beautiful. Our ideas of Asiatic scenery were 
 quite at fault, for, in the first place, we edged along a 
 thunderstorm all the way, and, instead of burning sun, 
 dust, and barrenness, we had a rather clouded sky, 
 a very damp road, and the greenest vegetation one 
 could wish for. In fact, the freshness of everything 
 strikes one very much. From our Hotel (Bellevue), 
 we look over a magnificent plain, bounded by moun- 
 tains which are green to the summit, and covered 
 with fine trees, walnut, maple, oak, and very splendid 
 Cyprus, which rise up here and there to break the 
 outline. 
 
 The village itself is set amongst trees, and the 
 innumerable mosques and minarets add to its beauty 
 and picturesqueness. On the way we halted for ten 
 minutes under a grove of oaks, but the thunder-shower 
 had left this rather a damp oasis. It was curious 
 what luck we had in just missing the storm ; we faced 
 the heavy downpour all the way, and seemed to drive 
 towafds the rainbow without ever getting into the 
 rain. We were very glad of our dinner when we 
 arrived, and very glad to see how nice and clean the 
 Hotel looked. 
 
 Wednesday, nth. — More thunder showers going on, 
 and, instead of being baked, as we expected to be, we 
 are quite cool, and, joyful fact I there are no mosquitoes. 
 I look out of my window the first thing, and, though 
 I am filled with admiration at the view, I shake my 
 head over the clouds that are about, and Nelly 
 reproaches me with having advised her to bring a 
 summer gown instead of a nice warm one. We had 
 a good little breakfast, and then started on a tour of 
 
i884] BROUSSA 33i 
 
 sight-seeing. This consists principally in visiting 
 mosques and tombs. One of each will suffice to give 
 you an idea of what we saw. First the " Green 
 Mosque," so called because the tomb of the Sultan 
 who built it is close to it, and is a good-sized, 
 dome-covered building, entirely covered with " green " 
 (really blue) tiles. The windows and doors of this 
 mosque are surrounded by delicate carvings in stone, 
 and there are some of the most beautiful old tiles 
 which exist. Even the unlearned can appreciate 
 the merits of an enamel which makes the tile look 
 transparent, and which, in addition to a lovely colour 
 for the ground, adds a variety of different designs for 
 borders and frames. There is a dado of these old 
 tiles all round the mosque, a sort of arched recess in 
 the centre which reaches to the top and is all covered 
 by them, and then there are little chapels off the central 
 church decorated in the same way. 
 
 It is the finest old monument remaining in Turkey. 
 The shuffling about in slippers which will come off, 
 is the most troublesome part of mosque-seeing. The 
 tombs I spoke of are circular buildings with graves 
 inside, or coffins laid out. The sultan is in the middle 
 and his family at his feet. 
 
 We saw many more, but the really interesting part 
 always is the magnificent view that meets one's eyes 
 in every direction. 
 
 D. wanted to take a sulphur bath, so we left him, 
 and I went in to see what the women's baths looked 
 like. There was a very hot room with a number of 
 tubs of water in it, and outside were divans in which 
 two or three ladies were reposing. There was one 
 very pretty young woman, who, with very rosy cheeks 
 and dark eyes, looked nice in her " Turkish towel " 
 robe. This, however, was a very small " bath," and 
 Mrs. Longworth, who came in after lunch, offered 
 to show me a big one, so Nelly and I went off to see 
 
332 BROUSSA [ch. vi 
 
 it. In the first room we entered we found crowds of 
 women and children sitting in various stages of dress 
 and undress on raised platforms which went all round 
 the large apartment. Anything less " divine " than 
 the human figure as displayed by the ordinary Turkish 
 woman under these circumstances can scarcely be 
 imagined. They spend their whole day here, once 
 a week, and there were babies swung up in impromptu 
 hammocks, and infants toddling about the damp floor, 
 while the mothers also toddled about lightly clad, or 
 sat in loose garments on the dais, or took a little nap. 
 I had on a gown which had some distant resemblance 
 to a Turkish towel, and this struck them at once, 
 and a very fat one came down several steps to feel it. 
 The second room was hotter, and, if possible, more 
 undressed, and in the third, which was extremely 
 hot, was the swimming-bath, a great round place 
 filled with natural hot water. This looked rather 
 tempting, and I thought of trying one, but scarcely 
 liked to make the experiment as I have so short a 
 time here. We bought some pottery, and visited 
 Lady Strangford after this, and then D. and Nelly 
 and I rode a little way up the hill on donkeys 
 and got a splendid view of this magnificent plain, 
 with its surrounding chains of hills. 
 
 Thursday, June 12th. — In the morning we went 
 to the Bazaars, and after lunch D., Nelly and I and 
 the Consul's wife mounted donkeys, while Count 
 Corti rode the nobler steed, a horse. We were to 
 meet Lady Strangford at some lovely spot, and to have 
 tea with her. On our way we stopped at a silk factory, 
 and I was very much interested in seeing it wound 
 off the cocoons, as I found my ideas on the subject 
 had been most hazy. Then we rode on, looking all 
 the time at the magnificent view, which became more 
 and more extensive as we mounted. When we 
 reached Lady Strangford we found tea spread out on 
 
O-yh 
 
1 
 I 
 
 I 
 
i884l THERAPIA 333 
 
 the ground, and a very good one it was. We sat 
 there for some time, and only got back in time for 
 dinner. 
 
 Friday, i^th. — We had to be up early, and set off 
 to drive back to Mudania, where the Bittern awaited 
 us. The weather was lovely, and our whole journey 
 to Therapia was most delightful. The house is really 
 settled, and so here we are for the summer. 
 
 Tuesday, lyth. — ^Another yacht has been added to 
 our fleet. It belongs to Mr. Macferran. Freddy 
 considers he has a share in it, and Archie will sail in 
 her when he is here. Victoria broke a bottle over 
 her and called her the Lady Muriel. 
 
 June 2$th. — ^The Wyndhams are returning. There 
 was an alarm that they would be kept in quarantine 
 as Syra, and had they gone to Athens they would have 
 been kept five days ; but at Smyrna they were less 
 particular, so there was great excitement here when 
 the children heard they would arrive in the afternoon. 
 We all gain companions when they are here. 
 
 Friday, July iSth. — ^We had a long day at sea. At 
 ten o'clock we started for the Black Sea, taking our 
 lunch in the launch, and ourselves sailing in the yacht 
 up to a very pretty bay. When we arrived there at 
 half-past one we found our lunch all ready, and we 
 spent about an hour before going on. 
 
 We had quite a rough voyage to the Black Sea, a 
 great swell, and the waves looked very high from our 
 little boat. The Hermione behaved beautifully, and 
 went faster than any of them. The launch had gone 
 back to fetch our families, and at five we all met at 
 the Lazarette station. 
 
 We thought it would be interesting to see it in case 
 they begin to use it instead of keeping quarantine on 
 the ships. It is a lovely place. 
 
 Saturday, igth. — We spent a quiet day, and after 
 dinner had an Embassy " Bee " to tie up parcels for 
 
334 QUARANTINE [ch. vi 
 
 the " Fish-pond " at our Dorcas F^te. We got 
 through 496, which, with those we did last night, 
 approaches 600 parcels ! Count Corti came in by 
 accident, and was much amused. 
 
 Our boys and Colonel Teesdale, who is bringing a 
 horse as a present to the Sultan, are in quarantine. 
 Every day we pay them a visit, sitting by the ship 
 in a caique and talking to them. We try to take 
 them amusements and a little food, for though we 
 pay fifteen francs a day each for them during quaran- 
 tine, they say everything is very bad. 
 
 Tuesday, 22nd. — Colonel Teesdale came out of 
 quarantine, and the horse which he was to present 
 to the Sultan got here the same day from Marseilles. 
 We expected that he would have to wait some time 
 before the Sultan took any notice, but His Majesty 
 telegraphed at once for the horse to be brought to 
 him ; and, as Colonel Teesdale had first to be found 
 and then to be dressed, and to drive all the way to 
 the Palace, he got there too late either to see how 
 the horse looked after his voyage or to see the Sultan 
 himself, and he only got back here when we had 
 finished dinner. 
 
 Monday, May 2Sth. — ^Archie came of age to-day, 
 and We kept his birthday in a very domestic 
 way, all such official demonstrations as used to 
 be got up by tenants being over now ! What a 
 change since D. came of age, or even since we were 
 married ! We had arranged to go in the yacht to 
 lunch in one place, and then to sail to another for 
 tea, when the children were to meet us, either riding 
 or in the launch. We had a most lovely sail, with a 
 very good breeze blowing, and landed for lunch at 
 two. We sat at it and over it for a good while, 
 enjoying the rest, and when the time came we started 
 off again and crossed the Bosphorus to the European 
 side, saw that all the riders had arrived, and that 
 
1884] ANOTHER CHARITY FETE 335 
 
 the launch was just coming, and got into small boats 
 to row ashore. What was our surprise to find that 
 the shore was guarded, and that we were not allowed 
 to land on account of the quarantine regulations. 
 We explained who we were, and the officer telegraphed 
 for instructions, but the answer was " No ! " So 
 we all who were on the sea returned to the launch 
 and had tea there, while the rest of the party who 
 had ridden out to meet us had to ride back again tea- 
 less I All the Embassy dined with us, we were 
 eighteen, and we drank Archie's health, who replied 
 very nicelj'- in a few words, then we were joined by 
 the children of the party, and after sending off some 
 rockets we went into the round room, and had all sorts 
 of games and romps. 
 
 Friday y August ist. — ^The day of my " Dorcas 
 Fete." When we went to bed the night was perfectly 
 lovely, and I had no sort of fear for the morrow, but 
 about 5 a.m. I heard a howling wind, and when 
 we got up a deluge was pouring down. I really was 
 in despair. Every one had taken such interest in the 
 Fdte, and all were looking forward to it, so that it was 
 trying to feel that it was going to be spoilt by the 
 weather I We settled that it was impossible to 
 have it, and so set to to telegraph everywhere to put 
 off the special steamers and the band, and sent a 
 circular all round to Kadekeui and Candelli and 
 Therapia. At twelve I got a reply from Kadekeui : 
 "All ready to start; can't come to-morrow." The 
 weather was a little better, so we answered " Come." 
 Then we tried to put the Fete on again, chose a dry 
 (comparatively) spot for tables and band, and deter- 
 mined to make the best of it. The end of it was that 
 the afternoon was excessively lively, that every one 
 enjoyed themselves immensely, and that we made 
 
 Saturday, 2nd. — ^The rain yesterday morning turned 
 
336 AN IMPORTANT TELEGRAM [ch. vi 
 
 my F^te into a two-days' entertainment, but the 
 second was quite different and quite as amusing as 
 the first. Altogether, in spite of overwhelming 
 misfortunes at the beginning, my " Dorcas Fete " as 
 an entertainment went off beautifully, and was a 
 financial success, having made £41$. But I can see 
 now what a splendid thing it would have been if Friday 
 had been fine. The whole neighbourhood would have 
 come, and people would have enjoyed it so ! 
 
 August nth. — On returning from the Porte to-day 
 D. found a telegram offering him the Viceroyalty of 
 India. This has to be kept secret for the present. 
 
 August 26th. — The Antelope is gone (superannuated), 
 and the new Embassy Yacht H.M.S. Imogene arrived 
 to-day. Captain Gough is in command of her. 
 
 August 2'jth. — I was fired with ambition to have a 
 Regatta at Therapia, and it was decided that it should 
 be here ; but the " Press " thought Buyukdere was 
 the proper place for it, and in one newspaper, after 
 eloquently describing the merits of the one place and 
 the defects of the other, it went on to say that it was 
 " not because men thought themselves capable of 
 calming for one day the violence of the wind, or of 
 diminishing the force of the current, or of changing 
 the mouth of the Black Sea, or of enlarging the poor 
 quays of Therapia. No ! the only reason for this 
 illogical decision was that the English Ambassadress 
 le veut." 
 
 *' Devant la volonte d'une dame le comite s'est 
 incline, et en faisant cela ces messieurs ont agi en 
 gentleman." The writer also " submits," but asks 
 whether " Ces fagons r^gences seront-elles adoptees 
 par les ^l^ments ? Nous en doutons, car ils sont 
 diablement mal eleves." 
 
 After this you will be pleased to hear that the 
 weather was lovely. We had the right wind for 
 Therapia, and the wrong one for Buyukdere, and 
 
1884] FAREWELL TO CONSTANTINOPLE 337 
 
 " the oldest inhabitant " had never seen so many 
 people there before. The Bosphorus was covered 
 with boats, and it was a beautiful sight. Even the 
 enemy acknowledged the success of the day. In the 
 evening Archie let off some fireworks from our 
 balcony, but by misfortune the sparks from one rocket 
 fell on a bundle of others and these went off one after 
 the other in a most alarming manner. Happily no 
 damage was done. 
 
 September loth. — D.'s appointment to the Vice- 
 royalty of India was announced. 
 
 September 12th. — ^We gave a farewell garden party 
 to the British colony and the Diplomatic Body, and 
 until the sixteenth, when we left Constantinople, we 
 were very busy preparing for our departure — too busy 
 to continue this journal. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Abbasiyeh, 254 
 
 Abdul Aziz, Sultan, trial of his 
 murderers, 135 
 
 Abdul Hamid, Sultan of Turkey, 
 receives Lord Dufferin, 130, 163, 
 299, 301 ; dinner-parties, 131, 
 302-305 ; goes to mosque, 161, 
 171 ; appearance, 161, 303 ; 
 protests against Lord Dufferin 
 leaving, 231 ; requests Lady 
 Dufferin to arrange a concert, 
 304-307 ; takes tickets, 310 ; 
 receives Lord and Lady Wol- 
 mer, 323 
 
 Adlerberg, Countess, 27, 41 
 
 Albert Victor, H.R.H. Prince, at 
 Athens, 200 
 
 Alexander II, Emperor of Russia, 
 receives Lord Dufferin, 15 ; 
 meeting with Lord and Lady 
 Dufferin, 24 ; appearance, 24 ; 
 dinner-parties, 25, 77 ; at- 
 tempts on his life, 31, 65, 109 ; 
 at the army manoeuvres, 43-50 ; 
 25th anniversary of his reign, 
 68 ; at the" Chevaliers Gardes" 
 fete-day, 79 ; presents, 87 ; 
 review of troops, 88 ; at the 
 funeral of the Empress, 100 ; 
 assassinated, no ; funeral cere- 
 monies, 111-117 
 
 Alexander III, Emperor of Russia, 
 receives Lord Dufferin, 17 ; 
 proclamation, no; at the 
 funeral of Emperor Alexander 
 II, 113; Order of the Garter 
 conferred, 117 
 
 Alexandra, Queen, likeness to her 
 sister, 25 ; arrival at Petro- 
 grad, 115 ; at the funeral of 
 Alexander II, 116 ; appearance, 
 117, 121 ; entertained at lunch 
 by Lord and Lady Dufferin, 
 117 ; leaves Petrograd, 122 
 
 Alexandra, the, 125 
 Alexandre, M., 294 
 Alexandria, 233, 299 ; Charity 
 
 Ball in aid of the poor, ^'j'^-t.'j^ ; 
 
 result, 276 
 Alexis, Grand Duke, 77 
 Alison, Lady, 243, 271 
 Alison, Sir Archibald, 243 ; at 
 
 Tel-el-Kebir, 258 
 Allan, Sir H. Havelock, anecdote 
 
 of, 249 
 Ambassador at Petrograd, rules 
 
 for the, 8-1 1 
 Ambassadress at Petrograd, rules 
 
 for the, 9 
 Amenhotep III, statues of, 286 
 Antelope, H.M.S., 125, 130, 132, 
 
 137, 141, 145, 150, 210, 221, 
 
 227, 232, 336 ; Fancy Ball given 
 
 on board the, 149 ; accident 
 
 to, 163, 188 ; dinner given by 
 
 the officers of, 166 
 Antigone, island of, 328 
 Apraxine, Count, 119 
 Arabi, ovation at Cairo, 265 
 Arbuthnot, Gen. and Mrs., at 
 
 Heluan, 268 
 Ardagh, Major, at the Pyramids, 
 
 241 
 Armeni, M. Brailas, 12 
 Armenian boys, their performance, 
 
 190 
 Army manoeuvres, Russian, 43- 
 
 50 ; Parade, 88 
 Arva, the, 193 
 
 Asia, 134 ; Sweet Waters of, 219 
 Assiout, 281, 292 
 Assym Pasha, Minister for Foreign 
 
 Affairs, 172 
 Athens, 193, 324 ; Academy, 
 
 199 ; House of Commons, 198 ; 
 
 Palace, ball at, 194 ; religious 
 
 procession at, 324 
 Augusta, Empress of Germany, 
 
 339 
 
340 
 
 INDEX 
 
 2 ; receives Lady DufEerin, 4, 
 124 ; boudoir, 4 ; dinner-party, 
 5 ; dress, 5 
 
 Austrian Embassy, Constantino- 
 ple, ball at the, 182 
 
 Ava, Archibald, Earl of, at 
 Moscow, 89 ; Merikiill, 102 ; 
 costume at a Fancy Ball, 148 ; 
 swims across the Bosphorus, 
 152 ; fishing expedition, 224 ; 
 celebration of his coming of age, 
 334 ; lets ofE fireworks at the 
 Regatta, 337 
 
 Azim Pasha, 132 
 
 B., Mr. and Mrs., life in a dahabi- 
 yeh, 259 
 
 Bacchante, the, 201 
 
 Bairam, the first, 154 ; the 
 second, 168, 170 
 
 Baker, Colonel James, takes part 
 in The Critic, 177 
 
 Baker, Mrs. Valentine, 211, 225 
 
 Baker, Sir Valentine, 211 
 
 Bariatinski, Madame, 22 
 
 Bariatinski, Prince Victor, 202 
 
 Barnes, Mr., 239 
 
 Barthoieyns, Madame, death of, 
 185 ; grave, 192 
 
 Barthoieyns, Miss, 141 
 
 Bath, John, fourth Marquis of, 
 expedition to Prinkipo, 141 
 
 Bazaar, a Charity, at Constanti- 
 nople, 317-319 ; result, 320 
 
 Bechlolsheim, Baron, 80 
 
 Beikos, 139, 154, 228 ; palace, 
 
 154 
 Belgrade. Forest, 129, 144, 228 
 Beni-Hassan, 292 
 Bennelt, Gordon, 217 
 Beresford, Lord and Lady Charles, 
 
 at Cairo, 249 
 Berlin, i, 52, 123 ; the palace, 3- 
 
 5 ; theatre, 5 ; National Gal- 
 lery, 6 
 Bickford, Mr., 125 
 Binney, Mr., Consul at Syra, 232 
 Bismarck, Count Herbert, 6 
 Bismarck, Prince, receives Lord 
 
 Dufferin, 2, 55 ; appearance, 3 ; 
 
 dinner-party, 6 
 Bittern, the, 325, 329, 333 
 Black Sea, 128, 137, 138, 145, 147, 
 
 163, 218, 229, 333 
 Blackwell, Miss, 198 ; adventure 
 
 at Pera, 150 ; passion for work, 
 
 177 ; result of her journey up 
 
 the Nile, 294 
 
 Blackwood, Lady Helen, at Paris, 
 51 ; Petrograd, 56 ; the Car- 
 nival, 71 ; at Moscow, 89 ; at 
 the funeral of Alexander II, 
 116 ; meeting with the Princess 
 of Wales, 118 ; at Constanti- 
 nople, 140 ; takes part in The 
 Critic, 177 ; yachting expedi- 
 tion, 217 ; at Cairo, 235 ; first 
 dinner-party, 238 ; ascends the 
 Pyramids, 242 ; at the hospital, 
 243 ; dines at the Abdin Palace, 
 248 ; Oriental dress, 260, 264 ; 
 at the races, 267 ; the Charity 
 Ball, 274 ; journey up the Nile, 
 280, 293 ; dines with the Sultan, 
 
 303 ; admonition from him, 
 
 304 ; result of her Fishpond at 
 the bazaar, 318 ; at Athens, 
 324 ; Broussa, 330-333 
 
 Blackwood, Lady Hermione, at 
 Petrograd, 54 ; Merikull, 102 ; 
 Cairo, 254 ; opinion of Brugsch 
 Bey, 271 
 
 Blackwood, Lady Victoria, at 
 Petrograd, 53 ; dancing lesson, 
 54 ; story of, 63 ; presents a 
 bouquet to the Duchess of Edin- 
 burgh, 69 ; attack of whooping- 
 cough, 85 ; at Constantinople, 
 132 ; opinion of yashmaks, 
 190 ; at Cairo, 253 ; christens 
 the Lady Muriel, 333 
 
 Blackwood, Lord Basil, at Petro- 
 grad, 54, 60 
 
 Blackwood, Lord Frederick, at 
 Petrograd, 60 ; attack of whoop- 
 ing cough, 85 ; at Merikiill, 
 103 ; Constantinople, 132 ; falls 
 from his donkey, 140 ; takes 
 part in tableaux, 161 ; in The 
 Critic, 178; story of, 179; 
 letter to Mr. M. Wallace, 214 ; 
 at Cairo, 253 ; attack of 
 jaundice, 267 ; journey up the 
 Nile, 281, 283 ; opinion of Miss 
 Colvin, 295 ; at the charity 
 bazaar, 318 
 
 Blackwood, Lord Terence, 104 ; 
 costume at a Fancy Ball, 
 149 
 
 Bland, Mr., takes part in The 
 Critic, 177 ; on board the Arva, 
 193 ; at Athens, 193 ; yachting 
 expeditions, 217, 224 ; at a 
 Fancy Dress Ball, 264 ; journey 
 up the Nile, 280, 294 ; at the 
 charity bazaar, 318 
 
INDEX 
 
 341 
 
 Block, Mr., takes part in The 
 
 Critic, 177 
 Bobrinski, Count, 89, 91 
 Boccaccio, performance of, 277 
 Boehler, Count, 90 
 Bosphorus, the, 128, 129, 141, 145, 
 
 163, 218, 229, 334, 337 
 Boulak Museum, Cairo, 270 
 Bourke, Hon. R., takes part in 
 
 The Critic, 177 
 Brassey, Lady, at Cairo, 267 
 Broussa, 329, 330; the " Green 
 
 Mosque," 331 ; sulphur baths, 
 
 331 
 Brugsch Bey, 270 
 Budberg, Baron and Baronne de, 
 
 22 
 Bulgaria, Prince of, 65 
 Bulwer, Sir Henry, house on a 
 
 rock}'- island, 226 
 Bulwer's Island, 223, 226 
 Burke, Mr., 125 
 Burton, Mr., 241 
 Butcher, Dean, 240 
 Butler, Mr., 131 
 Buyukdere, French play at, 139 
 
 Cairo, 235 ; Artillery Barracks, 
 241 ; bazaars, 240 ; charity 
 ball, 273-275, 320 ; church, 
 garden-fSte in aid of, 277- 
 279, 320 ; citadel, 239 ; Gym- 
 kana, 250 ; Highland Sports, 
 260 ; Holy Carpet, return from 
 Mecca, 264-266 ; hospital, 240, 
 241, 243 ; Pyramids, 241 ; 
 theatre, 247 
 
 Calici, Baron, 219 ; on the ques- 
 tion of precedence, 306 ; dines 
 with Lord and Lady Dufferin, 
 308 
 
 Calici, Madame, 307 
 
 Candili, 138 
 
 Capercailzie, stalking, 83 
 
 Carnock, Lord, 140, 177 w 
 
 Cartwright, Mr., 247 
 
 Catawe, Mr., 243 
 
 Catherine II, Empress of Russia, 
 portrait of, 121 
 
 Catherine Michailovna, Grand 
 Duchess, receives Lord and 
 Lady Dufferin, 18 ; at Oranien- 
 baum, 42 
 
 Cavass, use of a, 170 
 
 Cemetery, a Turkish, 189 
 
 Cephalonia, 125 
 
 Chanak, 127 
 
 Chanzy, General, Ambassador at 
 Petrograd, 23 ; dines at the 
 Palace, 25 
 
 Chanzy, Madame, 53 ; number of 
 foreigners at her receptions, 106 
 
 Chaplin, Mr., at Cairo, 267 
 
 Charteris, Mr., takes part in The 
 Critic, 177 
 
 Cherif Pasha, dinner-party, 275 
 
 Chevaliers Gardes, fete-day, 79 
 
 Christmas Tree, at Constantinople, 
 319 ; result, 320 
 
 Clandeboye, Archibald, Viscount, 
 152. See Ava 
 
 Clark, Mr., 41 ; bear-shooting 
 expedition, 74-77 
 
 Clarke, Colonel Stanley, at Petro- 
 grad, 115 
 
 Coachmen, in Petrograd dress, 28 
 
 Cockatrice, the, 183 
 
 Collobiano, Count, 177 
 
 Cologne, 51 
 
 Colvin, Miss, journey up the Nile, 
 280 ; illness, 294 
 
 Colvin, Sir Auckland, 238 
 
 Comet, view of a, 231 
 
 Compton, Lord William, Secretary 
 at Petrograd, 7, 16, 56 ; takes 
 part in a troika drive, 55 ; bear- 
 shooting expeditions, 69, 80 ; 
 at the Carnival, 71 
 
 Condouriotti, Madame, 312 
 
 Connemara, Robert, Baron, 177 n. 
 
 Constantine, Grand Duke, 200 
 
 Constantinople, 127, 201, 301 ; 
 Austrian Embassy, ball at the, 
 182 ; Bazaar, method of bar- 
 gaining, 170 ; British Embassy, 
 133. 167 ; charity bazaar, 317- 
 319, 320 ; climate, 136 ; con- 
 cert, 310, 320 ; dogs, barking of 
 the, 169, 179 ; dust-storm, 
 168 ; Italian Embassy, 140 ; 
 the Palace, 160 ; Persian Em- 
 bassy, ball, 183 ; Russian Em- 
 bassy, 136; performance of the 
 choir at, 326 ; Treasury, 159 ; 
 water, supply of, 181 
 
 Cook, Mr., expedition to the 
 Serapeum, 251 
 
 Coptic Cathedral, service, 279 
 
 Corry, Miss, lady-in-waiting to the 
 Duchess of Edinburgh, 63, 65, 
 66 ; at a fancy dress ball, 70 ; 
 long hours of standing, 85 ; 
 sporting expedition, 81-83 
 
 Corti, Count, 323, 329, 334 ; 
 dinner-party, 140, 218 ; ex- 
 
342 
 
 INDEX 
 
 pedition to Prinkipo, 141 ; at 
 Broussa, 332 
 Cowell, Sir John, at Petrograd, 
 
 115 
 Critic, The, 176 ; caste, 177 ; 
 
 performance, 1 77 
 Cronstadt, 40 
 
 Dancing girls, their performance, 
 237, 284, 297 
 
 Dantzig, 56 
 
 Dardanelles, the, 300 
 
 Darmstadt, 124 
 
 Davidoff, Prince OrolofE, 22 
 
 Delanoff, Madame, 26 
 
 Denderah, temple at, 292 
 
 Denmark, Crown Prince of, at the 
 funeral of the Empress of 
 Russia, loi 
 
 Dering, Mr. and Mrs., 2 
 
 Dervishes, dancing, 157-159 ; 
 Howling, 164, 191 
 
 Dogs of Constantinople, their 
 noise, 169, 179 
 
 Dolgorouki, Princess, 78 
 
 Dorcas Society, 321, 322 ; fete, 
 335 ; result, 336 
 
 Dreuteln, General, attempts on his 
 life, 23 
 
 Due, M. and Madame, 27 
 
 Dufferin and Ava, Frederick, first 
 Marquis of, at Berlin, 1-7, 123 ; 
 Petrograd, 7, 55 ; audience with 
 the Emperor, 15 ; presented to 
 the Cesarevitch, 18 ; audiences, 
 18-20 ; at Tsarskoe-Seloe, 38, 
 43 ; Peterhof, 39, 103 ; Cron- 
 stadt," 40 ; at a fete in the 
 Summer Gardens, 41 ; at Ora- 
 nienbaum, 42 ; Krasnol, 43 ; 
 present at the army manoeuvres, 
 43-50 ; at the play, 45, 47, 51, 
 85 ; shooting, 48 ; return to 
 England, 51, 299 ; official re- 
 ception, 58 ; presented with 
 a sword, 64 ; bear-shooting 
 expeditions, 73-77, 80, 105 ; 
 stalking capercailzie, 83 ; at 
 Moscow, 89-99 ; Merikiill, 102 ; 
 Schliisselburg, 103 ; receives 
 the Prince and Princess of 
 Wales, 115 ; at the funeral of 
 Alexander II, 116 ; presides at 
 a missionary meeting, 120 ; ap- 
 pointed Ambassador at Con- 
 stantinople, 122 ; leaves Petro- 
 grad, 123 ; received by the 
 
 Emperor of Germany, 123 ; at 
 Constantinople, 127 ; received 
 by the Sultan, 130, 163, 231, 
 299, 301 ; dines at the palace, 
 131, 197, 200, 302-305 ; official 
 visit to the Porte, 132 ; re- 
 ceives two veiled Turkish ladies, 
 137 ; dress at a Fancy Ball, 
 148 ; at the Selamnik, 171 ; 
 account of a Persian ceremony, 
 174-176 ; at the funeral of 
 Captain Selby, 186 ; at Athens, 
 193-201 ; yachting expeditions, 
 216, 222, 327-329; Confer- 
 ences, 216, 218, 227; a day's 
 work, 217; treatment of the 
 Ministers, 219 ; despatched to 
 Egypt, 231 ; at Cairo, 235 ; the 
 Pyramids, 242 ; present at the 
 return of the Holy Carpet from 
 Mecca, 264 ; journey up the 
 Nile, 280-295 ; discovery of a 
 mummy, 288 ; leaves Cairo, 
 299 ; accident to his carriage, 
 329 ; at Broussa, 330-333 ; ap- 
 pointed Viceroy of India, 336, 
 
 337 
 Dufferin and Ava, Harlot, Mar- 
 chioness of, at Berlin, 1-7, 52, 
 123 ; receives Prince Bismarck, 
 3 ; presented to the Emperor 
 and Empress of Germany, 4 ; 
 dines at the palace, 5 ; with 
 Prince Bismarck, 6 ; at Petro- 
 grad, 7, 52 ; at the opera, 13, 
 78, 251, 271 ; the Embassy, 14 ; 
 servants, 14 ; presented to the 
 Empress, 15 ; troika drives, 17, 
 54. 55. 5^ J presented to the 
 Cesarevna, 18 ; audiences, 18- 
 20 ; dines at the Italian Em- 
 bassy, 21 ; at the German Em- 
 bassy, 22, 61 ; meeting with the 
 Emperor, 24 ; dines at the 
 palace, 25, 77 ; at a concert, 
 
 32 ; sells at a charity bazaar, 
 
 33 ; at a Russian wedding, 37, 
 68 ; leaves for England, 38, 
 124, 299 ; at Paris, 51 ; at a 
 dance, 57, 62, 69, 148, 166, 182, 
 183, 194, 263 ; official recep- 
 tion, 58 ; dinner-parties, 61, 64, 
 85, 121, 130, 154, 308 ; at the 
 play, 62, 85, 139, 277 ; at the 
 Ice Hills, 62, 114 ; learns the 
 Mazourka, 63 ; presented with 
 a dagger, 64 ; at the Winter 
 Palace, 66, 119 ; entertains the 
 
INDEX 
 
 343 
 
 Duke and Duchess of Edin- 
 burgh, 69 ; gives a ball, 70, 108, 
 154, 179, 1S7, 220 ; at the 
 Carnival, 71 ; bear-shooting ex- 
 pedition, 73-77, 105 ; at the 
 " Chevaliers Gardes " fete- 
 day, 79 ; at Narva, 80 ; sport- 
 ing expedition, 81-84; ^.t the 
 Parade of troops, 88 ; Moscow, 
 89-99 ; orders a Russian din- 
 ner, 96 ; at the funeral of the 
 Empress, 100-102 ; Merikiill, 
 102 ; Peterhof, 103 ; Schliis- 
 selburg, 103 ; receives the 
 Prince of Wales, 116, 117; at 
 the funeral of Alexander II, 
 116; luncheon-party to royalties, 
 117 ; leaves Petrograd, 123 ; 
 received by the Empress of 
 Germany, 124 ; at Darmstadt, 
 124 ; Venice, 124 ; on board 
 H.M.S. Helicon, 125 ; trans- 
 ferred to H. M.S. Antelope, 126 ; 
 at Chanak, 126 ; Constanti- 
 nople, 127 ; reception at Thera- 
 pia, 128 ; visits the Porte, 
 
 132 ; inspects the Embassy, 
 
 133 ; takes tea in Asia, 134 ; 
 dines at the Russian Embassy, 
 136 ; expedition to Kelia, 137, 
 218; at Candili, 138; Beikos, 
 139, 154 ; dines at the Italian 
 Embassy, 140 ; size of her 
 bouquet, 140 ; at Prinkipo, 
 141, 162, 210, 225 ; visit to the 
 Persian Ambassadress, 143 ; 
 acts in a play, 144, 277, 322, 
 326 ; success of her first party, 
 145 ; at a Turkish wedding, 
 146, 202-210 ; received by 
 Prince and Princess Halim, 147, 
 182 ; receives the Persian Am- 
 bassadress, 149 ; at Stamboul, 
 150. 153. 170. 182 ; garden- 
 parties, 152, 220, 337 ; visit to 
 a harem, 155 ; receives Prince 
 and Princess Halim, 163 ; at 
 Scutari, 163, 192 ; preparations 
 for leaving Therapia, 166 ; at 
 Ismid, 166 ; at the British 
 Embassy, 167 ; caught in a dust- 
 storm, 168 ; visits the Bazaar, 
 170 ; entertains Turks, 172 ; 
 visits a Turkish family, 173 ; 
 takes part in The Critic, 177 ; 
 fortune told, 189, 191 ; marriage 
 of her sister, 190 ; picnics, 192, 
 219; trip to Athens, 193-201, 
 
 23 
 
 324 ; at Eleusis, 195 ; ascends 
 Mount Pentelicus, 196 ; dines 
 with the Sultan, 197, 200, 302- 
 305 ; return to Constantinople, 
 201, 301, 325 ; description of 
 her children, 212-214; yacht- 
 ing expeditions, 217, 221-226, 
 327-329, 333, 334 ; at the 
 Giant's Mountain, 228 ; Syra, 
 232 ; Alexandria, 233 ; Cairo, 
 
 235 ; receives the Khedive, 
 
 236 ; at an Egyptian wedding, 
 236-238 ; her house, 239, 243- 
 245 ; at the citadel, 239 ; the 
 Pyramids, 241-243, 268 ; visits 
 the hospital, 241, 243, 256, 260, 
 262 ; boudoir, 244 ; receives 
 Princess Nazli, 245 ; present 
 from the Vice-Reine, 247 ; 
 dines at the Abdin Palace, 248 ; 
 drum, 250 ; expedition with 
 " Cook," 251-253 ; at Sera- 
 peum, 251 ; breakfasts with 
 Princess Mansour, 254-256 ; 
 receives an Egyptian lady, 256 ; 
 expedition to Tel-el-Kebir, 257 ; 
 attack of typhoid fever, 266 ; at 
 Heluan, 268 ; charity ball, 271- 
 275 ; garden-fete in aid of the 
 church funds, 277-279 ; at the 
 Coptic Cathedral service, 279 ; 
 journey up the Nile, 280-295 ; 
 at Luxor, 283, 290 ; Karnak, 
 285, 291 ; return to Cairo, 295 ; 
 farewell visits to harems, 295- 
 
 298 ; at Marseilles, 299 ; Naples, 
 
 299 ; presented with the Order 
 of the Shefakat, 305 ; requested 
 by the Sultan to preside at a 
 concert for the sufferers in the 
 earthquake at Smyrna, 304- 
 307 ; entertains Admiral Lord 
 John Hay, 308-310 ; result 
 of the concert, 310 ; charity 
 bazaar, 317-319 ; Christmas 
 Tree, 319 ; at the Dorcas 
 Society, 321 ; moves to Thera- 
 pia, 329 ; expedition to Broussa, 
 330-333 ; Dorcas Fete, 335 
 
 Dust-storm at Constantinople, 168 
 
 Earle, General, 271 ; at Abbasi- 
 
 yeh, 254 
 Edinburgh, H.R.H. Duchess of, 
 
 63, 65, 66, 69, 77 
 Edinburgh, H.R.H. Prince Alfred, 
 
 Duke of, 68, 69 ; at the funeral 
 
 of the Empress of Russia, loi ; 
 
344 
 
 INDEX 
 
 of the Emperor Alexander II, 
 
 112 
 
 Education, cost of in Russia, 34 
 
 Edward VII, King, arrival at 
 Petrograd, 115 ; at the funeral 
 of Alexander II, 116; invests 
 Alexander III with the Order 
 of the Garter, 117; entertained 
 at lunch by Lord and Lady 
 Dufferin, 117; leaves Petro- 
 grad, 118 
 
 Egypt, climate, 259 
 
 Egypt, Khedive, appearance, 236 ; 
 his mother, 237 ; wife, 237 ; 
 dinner-party, 248 ; school-feast, 
 
 263 ; present at the return of 
 the Holy Carpet from Mecca, 
 
 264 ; at the Charity Ball, 274 
 Egypt, the Vice-Reine, 237 ; gift 
 
 to Lady Dufferin, 247 ; receives 
 
 her, 251, 264, 271, 298 
 Egyptian Army, the new, sports, 
 
 268 ; house, 241, 249 
 Eleusis, 195 ; ruins of the Temple 
 
 of Ceres, 195 ; costume of the 
 
 peasants, 195 ; their dancing, 
 
 196 ; costume of the men, 196 
 Elliot, Colonel Minto, 241 
 Eyoub, Court of the Sacred 
 
 Mosque, 188 
 
 Fairfax, Captain, 308 
 
 Falcon, the, 183 
 
 Fatma, Princess, 259 ; receives 
 Lady Dufferin, 312 ; appear- 
 ance, 312 
 
 Fernandez, Madame, 315 
 
 Finland, Gulf of, 60 
 
 Fishing with a " paraketta," 224 
 
 FitzGerald, Mrs., at the Pyramids, 
 241 ; dinner-party, 243 
 
 FitzGerald, Sir Gerald, 243 
 
 Fitzroy, Captain, 233 
 
 Foote, Barrington, 244 
 
 Ford,. Johnny, at Athens, 194, 196 
 
 Ford, Mr., at Athens, 194, 197, 201 
 
 Fortune-teller, a Turkish, 189, 191 
 
 Foundling Hospital, Moscow, 94- 
 96 
 
 Frederick, Crown Prince of Ger- 
 many, 4 ; at the funeral of the 
 Empress of Russia, loi ; enter- 
 tains Lord and Lady Dufferin, 
 124 
 
 G., General, mode of attending 
 
 church, 28 
 Galitzin, Prince, at Krasnoe, 44 
 
 Galitzin, Prince John, 23, 25 
 
 Gazelle, the, 222 
 
 George V, King, attack of fever at 
 
 Athens, 199, 201 
 Ghika, Prince, funeral, 122 
 Giant's Mountain, 228 
 Giers, M. de, 21, 40, 64 
 Girofld Girofla, performance of, 
 
 253 
 
 Gisiko, Eric, 121 
 
 Goldsmid, Sir Frederick, at Thera- 
 pia, 215 
 
 Gortschakoff, Prince, 8, 11, 38, 56 
 
 Goschen, Mrs., at Constantinople, 
 143 ; takes part in The Critic, 
 177 ; at Therapia, 201 ; yacht- 
 ing expeditions, 222, 327 ; cook- 
 ing, 223 ; illness, 266 ; at the 
 charity bazaar, 318 
 
 Goschen, Sir Edward, at Con- 
 stantinople, 143 ; takes part in 
 The Critic, 177 ; at Therapia, 
 201 ; yachting expeditions, 224, 
 327 ; at the charity bazaar, 
 318 
 
 Goschen, Teddie, 211 ; at the 
 charity bazaar, 318 
 
 Gosselin, Mr., 121 
 
 Gough, Captain, in command of 
 H.M.S. Imogene, 336 
 
 Graham, Hugh, at Cairo, 276 
 
 Granville, Granville George, 2nd 
 Earl, telegram to Lord Dufferin, 
 231 
 
 Grapes, mode of eating, 164 
 
 Greathed, Miss, 202 
 
 Greece, King of, at Athens, 194 ; 
 appearance, 197 ; entertains 
 Lord and Lady Dufferin, 197, 
 201 
 
 Greece, Queen of, at the funeral of 
 the Empress of Russia, loi ; at 
 Athens, 194 ; appearance, 194, 
 200 ; death of a child, 195 
 
 Greek Church service, 29, 36, 84 
 
 Green, Sir Henry, at Cairo, 267 
 
 Grenfell, Captain, 183, 216 ; at 
 Therapia, 202 
 
 Grenfell, Colonel, 271 
 
 Greville, Mr., 194, 195, 196, 201 ; 
 at Therapia, 220 
 
 Grey, Lord de, at Cairo, 277 
 
 Grimston, Lady Harriet, 114, 120, 
 122 
 
 Grosvenor, Mr., 29, 38, 41 
 
 Gurnah, Temple of, 287 
 
 Gymnastic Establishment at 
 Petrograd, 35 
 
INDEX 
 
 345 
 
 Hadji Baba, sweet-shop, 183 
 
 Haig, Captain, 63, 65 
 
 Halim, Prince, 163 ; receives 
 Lady Dufferin, 147 ; garden at 
 Cairo, 249 
 
 Halim, Princess, 156 ; receives 
 Lady Dufferin, 147, 179, 182, 
 227 ; dines with Lord and Lady 
 Duflferin, 163 
 
 Halki Island, 327 
 
 Hall, Mrs., 51, 54 ; journey up the 
 Nile, 280, 294 
 
 Hamilton, Lord Frederick, 3, 6 ; 
 takes part in a troika drive, 55 ; 
 bear-shooting expedition, 72, 
 73-77 ; tossed by women, 72, 
 76 ; at Peterhof, 103 
 
 Hamilton, Frederick, at the mar- 
 riage of his sister, 190 ; at 
 Athens, 193 
 
 Hamilton, Katherine, at Con- 
 stantinople, 129, 131 ; Candili, 
 138 ; size of her bouquet, 140 ; 
 at Prinkipo, 141 ; dress at a 
 Fancy Ball, 148 ; at Stamboul, 
 153; visits a harem, 155 ; takes 
 part in The Critic, 177 ; en- 
 gagement, 186 ; bridesmaids, 
 187, 190 ; fortune told, 189 ; 
 marriage, 190 ; gift from the 
 Sultan, 190. See Nicolson 
 
 Hamlyn, General, 130 
 
 Hanson, Mrs. Arthur, 135, 138, 
 145, 170 ; view from her house 
 and garden, 138 
 
 Happy Pair, The, performance of, 
 326 
 
 Hardinge, Hon. C, takes part in 
 The Critic, 177 ; yachting ex- 
 peditions, 224, 327 ; at Cairo, 
 268 ; the charity bazaar, 318 
 
 Harem, a Turkish, 155 
 
 Haskeui, fire at, 314 ; refugees, 
 
 315 
 
 Hassan, Princess, receives Lady 
 Dufferin, 276, 298 
 
 Hatasu, Princess, 289 
 
 Hawk, the, 228 
 
 Hay, Admiral Lord John, 307 ; 
 reception at Constantinople, 
 308-310 ; entertained at dinner 
 by Lord and Lady Dufferin, 308 
 
 Heap, Mrs., 172 
 
 Helene, Grand Duchess, 32 
 
 Helicon, H.M.S., 125, 299, 307 
 
 Heluan, 268 
 
 Hermitage, the, collection of pic- 
 tures at, 36, 86 
 
 Hesse, Prince of, 65 
 
 Hesse, Prince Alexander of, at 
 
 the funeral of the Empress of 
 
 Russia, loi 
 Hiershil, M. le Jonkhier van der 
 
 Staal de, 55 
 Hirsch, Baron, 316 
 Hobart, Admiral, 228 
 Hobart, Mrs., 192 
 Hobe, General, Master of the 
 
 Horse to the Sultan, 311, 323 
 Hobe, Madame de, 311, 316 
 Hussein, Princess, receives Lady 
 
 Dufferin, 253 
 
 Ibrahim Pasha, house at Beikos, 
 
 139 
 Ice Hills, toboganning slide, 62 
 Imogene, H.M.S., 336 
 Ismail, his mother, 276, 277 
 Ismid, Gulf of, 166 
 Ivan the Great, Tower of, 93, 94 ; 
 
 the bell, 94 
 
 John the Terrible, 90 ; burial-place 
 of, 91 ; excommunicated, 94 
 
 Joliffe, Captain, 126, 131, 222, 
 233 ; at the Pyramids, 242 
 
 Jomini, Baron, 12, 21, 23, 38, 121 
 
 Jomini, Baroness, 12 
 
 " Judas " tree, flowers of the, 326 
 
 " Kabobs," 171 
 
 Kadekeui, 211 ; Regatta, 228 
 
 Karnak, 285 ; Temple of, 291 
 
 Kelia, 137, 218 
 
 Kemball, Sir Arnold, at Cairo, 267 
 
 Kennedy, Lord and Lady Alex- 
 ander, 251 
 
 Kennedy, Miss, at Therapia, 201, 
 202 
 
 Kennedy, Sir Robert, 55, 56 ; 
 bear-shooting expedition, 72, 
 73~77. 80 ; on board H.M.S. 
 Antelope, 126 ; dress at a Fancy 
 Ball, 148 ; takes part in The 
 Critic, 177 
 
 Kerr, Lord Walter, 125 
 
 Khreptovitch, Count, Grand Cham- 
 bellan, 12 
 
 Kiosque, a Turkish, 135 
 
 Knollys, Miss, at Petrograd, 115, 
 118 
 
 Koehne, Baron, 38 
 
 Krasnoe, 43 
 
 Kremlin, the, 90, 93 ; churches, 
 91 ; the Palace, 90 ; Sacred 
 Gate, 94 ; Treasury, 90 
 
346 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Kreutz, Countess, fancy dress 
 ball, 69 ' 
 
 Labanoff, M., Ambassador to 
 
 England, 56 
 La Bayadere, ballet, 20 
 Ladoga, Lake, 36, 103, 104 
 Lady Hermione, the, 216, 217, 222, 
 
 225, 327, 333 ; goes ashore, 221 
 Lady Muriel, the, 333 
 Lafontaine, M., Secretary of the 
 
 Ottoman Bank, 311 
 Lambton, Mr., 125 
 Langenau, Countess, Austrian Am- 
 bassadress, 16, 24, 61, 62 ; her 
 
 position, 32 
 Langenau, M. de, 24 
 La vie pour le Czar, performance 
 
 of, 78 
 Le Fits de Gihoyer, performance of, 
 
 62 
 Leith, Colonel, Commandant at 
 
 Cairo, 239 
 Le Mariage d, la Mode, tableau, 
 
 317. 322 
 Le Printemps, tableau, 160 
 Les Cloches de Corneville, per- 
 formance of, 96 
 Le Serment d'Horace, performance 
 
 of, 199 
 L'Estrange, Captain, 114 
 L'Etre de St. Martin, performance 
 
 of, 199 
 Lieven, Prince and Princess Andre, 
 
 64 
 Lieven, Prince, Grand Maitre de 
 
 la Cour, II, 12, 16 
 Lloyd, l^ajor, 241 
 Loftus, Lord and Lady Augustus, 
 
 7 w, 8 
 Longworth, Mrs., 331 
 Luban, 74, 89 
 Lutka, Count, 40 
 Luxor, 283 ; temple of, 290 
 Lykabettus, 324 
 
 Macfarren, Mr., 222, 225, 228, 329 
 journey up the Nile, 280 ; 
 yacht, the Lady Muriel, 333 
 
 Madame Favart, performance of, 
 
 251 
 Malet, Sir Edward, receives Lord 
 and Lady DufEerin at Cairo, 
 235 ; dinner-party, 238 ; at 
 the Pyramids, 241 ; dines with 
 the Khedive, 248 ; present at 
 the return of the Holy Carpet 
 from Mecca, 264 ; at the charity 
 
 ball, 274 ; acts in a play, 277 ; 
 naystery entertainment at the 
 Garden Fete, 278 
 
 Mal-Tepe, 328 
 
 Mann, Captain, 329 
 
 Mansour, Princess, 251 ; receives 
 Lady DufEerin, 253, 297 ; en- 
 tertains her at breakfast, 254 ; 
 number of her slaves, 255 ; 
 dresses, 256 ; use of her fan, 
 256 ; entertains Lady Dufferin's 
 children, 259 ; at the Highland 
 Sports, 260 ; the Garden Fete, 
 279 
 
 Marathon, Plains of, 197 
 
 Marie Feodorovna, Dowager-Em- 
 press of Russia, receives Lady 
 Dufferin, 18 ; likeness to her 
 sister, 25 
 
 Marie Pavlovna, Grand Duchess, 
 receives Lady Dufferin, 19. See 
 Vladimir 
 
 Marinitch, Madame, at Therapia, 
 201 
 
 Marmora, Sea of, 138, 141, 163 
 
 Marriette, M., house, 251 
 
 Marseilles, 299 
 
 Martino Bey, Madame, 271 
 
 Maspero, M., head of the Museum 
 at Cairo, 290 
 
 Maxwell, Mr., at Cairo, 267 
 
 Mazourka dance, 63, 70 
 
 Mecca, return of the Holy Carpet 
 from, 264-266 
 
 Medin-et-Abu, temple and palace, 
 290 
 
 Mehemet Ali, 147, 155 
 
 Melikoff, Loris, appointed Dicta- 
 tor, 67 ; attempts on his life, 
 67, 69 ; anecdotes of, 72 
 
 Memphis, 251 
 
 Merikiill, 102 
 
 Michael, Grand Duke, 19 
 
 Midhat Pasha, trial, 135 ; con- 
 demned to death, 135, 137 
 
 Moda Bay, 222, 226, 228 
 
 Moltke, General, story of, 41 
 
 Moore, Lionel, 241, 245 ; stories of 
 Lord Stratford, 241, 283 ; jour- 
 ney up the Nile, 280, 294 
 
 Mordoflisf, " A Visit to the 
 Pyrenees," translation, 212-214 
 
 Moscow, 89 ; Cathedral, 91, 92, 
 94 ; Foundling Hospital, 94- 
 96 ; Kremlin, 90, 93 ; Romanoff 
 House, 92 ; Sacristy of the 
 Patriarchs, 92 ; Temple of the 
 Saviour, 99 
 
INDEX 
 
 347 
 
 Mouche, the, 147 
 
 Mudania, 330, 333 
 
 Munir Pasha, 190 ; acts as in- 
 terpreter to the Sultan, 131, 303 
 
 Mustapha Aga, Consul at Luxor, 
 283 
 
 My Uncle's Will, performance of, 
 322 
 
 Namouna, the, 217 
 
 Napier, Lord, of Magdala, at 
 Cairo, 267, 276, 290 
 
 Naples, 299 ; Museum, 300 
 
 Narischkine, Madame, sporting 
 expedition, 81 
 
 Narischkine, M., shooting ex- 
 pedition, 81-84 
 
 Narva, 80, 102 
 
 Naval Engagements, performance 
 of, 160 
 
 Nazli, Princess, 237, 245, 246 ; 
 receives Lady Dufferin, 259 ; 
 at the Highland Sports, 260 
 
 Nelidoff, M., Ambassador at Con- 
 stantinople, 301 
 
 Nesselrode, Count, 12 
 
 Neva, the, ice on breaks up, 33 ; 
 ceremony at the opening, 34 ; 
 frozen over, 36 ; the Bridge of 
 Boats, 85 
 
 Newman, Mrs., 326 
 
 Nicholas, Alexandra Petronova, 
 Grand Duchess, receives Lord 
 and Lady Dufferin, 20 
 
 Nicholas, Grand Duke, receives 
 Lord Dufferin, 20 
 
 Nicolson, Arthur, chief of the 
 Student Interpreters' College, 
 140, 170 ; sketch of Turkish 
 history, 140 ; acts in a play, 144, 
 177 ; at a fancy ball, 148, 264 ; 
 engagement, 186 ; marriage, 
 190 ; at the Dardanelles, 300 ; 
 return to Constantinople, 301 ; 
 at Athens, 334. See Carnock 
 
 Nicolson, Katherine, marriage, 
 190 ; at Cairo, 235 ; dines at 
 the Abdin Palace, 249 ; attack 
 of typhoid fever, 266 ; return 
 to Constantinople, 301 ; at 
 Athens, 324 
 
 Nigra, M., Ambassador at Petro- 
 grad, 21 ; presented with a 
 sword, 64 ; bear-shooting ex- 
 pedition, 105 
 
 Nihilists, arrests, 35 ; plots, 67, 
 112 ; trial, 123 
 
 Nile, the, 236 ; journey up, 280, 
 
 293 
 
 Novikoff, Madame, 97 
 Nowell, 43, 74, 271, 294, 309 
 Nowikow, Madame, Russian Am- 
 bassadress, at Constantinople, 
 128 
 
 Obolenski, Princess, 22 
 O'Donovan, Mr., From a Prison 
 
 to a Throne, 176 
 Okroshka soup, 96 
 Oldenburg, Prince d', 18, 19, 57 ; 
 
 views on abolishing armies, 19, 
 
 34 ; mode of expressing grati- 
 tude, 99 
 Oldenburg, Eugenie Maximiliovna, 
 
 Princess of, receives Lord and 
 
 Lady Dufferin, 19 
 Olga Feodorovna, Grand Duchess, 
 
 receives Lord and Lady Dufferin, 
 
 19 
 Oliphant, Mrs, at Therapia, 201 ; 
 
 Cairo, 276 
 Oliphant, Mrs., at Therapia, 202 
 Onnas, tomb of, 252 
 Onou, M., 153 
 Oranienbaum, 42 
 Orion, the, 233 
 Ornstein, M., 271, 274 
 Ortakein, Student Interpreters' 
 
 College at, 169 
 Oserki, 58 
 Ostroff, 74 
 Our Bitterest Foe, performance of, 
 
 322 
 Our Wife, performance of, 326 
 Oustia, 80 
 
 Paget, Captain and Mrs., at Cairo, 
 
 276 
 Paget, Lord Alfred, at Cairo, 276 
 Pahlen, Count, 22 
 Pahlen, Madame, 22, 54 
 Palmer, Captain and Mrs., 137 
 Paraketta, mode of fishing, 224 
 Paris, 51 
 Parish, Mr., cotton-mill at Schliis- 
 
 selburg, 103 
 Parish, Mrs., 103 
 Paskevitch, Prince, collection of 
 
 arms and china, 26 
 Paskevitch, Princess, amateur 
 
 theatricals, 23 ; embroidered 
 
 panels, 24 
 Pattes de Mouche, performance of, 
 
 23 
 
348 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Paul Michaelovitch, Grand Duke, 
 23, 26 
 
 Paulotsoff, M., 48 
 
 Pender, Sir John, at Constanti- 
 nople, 301 ; dines with the 
 Sultan, 302 
 
 Pentelicus, Mount, 196 
 
 Pergos, 144 
 
 Pericles, birthplace of, 196 
 
 Perponcher, Comtesse, 2 
 
 Persian Ambassador, picnics, 192, 
 219 ; appearance, 192 ; Am- 
 bassadress, receives Lady Duf- 
 ferin, 143, 227 ; costume, 143 ; 
 visits Lady Dufferin, 149 
 
 Persian ceremony, account of a, 
 174-176 
 
 Persian Embassy, Constantinople, 
 ball at the, 183 
 
 Peterhof, 38, 103 ; chapel, 40 ; 
 the Palace, 39, 103 
 
 Peter the Great, palaces, 39, 103 ; 
 portraits of, 121 
 
 Petrograd, 7, 52 ; impressions of, 
 8 ; Botanical Gardens, 86 ; 
 British Embassy, 8, 14 ; Car- 
 nival, 71 ; carriages. Museum 
 of , 1 1 8 ; Champ de Mars, annual 
 Parade, 88 ; china manufactory, 
 73 ; German Embassy, 22 ; 
 Gymnastic Establishment, 35 ; 
 Imperial Library, 121 ; Italian 
 Embassy, 21 ; Opera House, 13 ; 
 Winter Palace, 119; explosion 
 at, 64-67 
 
 Phalerum, 198 
 
 Plunkett, Mrs., 55 ; expedition 
 to Prinkipo, 141 
 
 Plunkett,' Sir Francis, First Secre- 
 tary at Petrograd, 7, 16, 20 ; 
 takes part in a troika drive, 55 ; 
 First Secretary at Constanti- 
 nople, 129 ; at the trial of 
 Midhat Pasha, 135 ; appointed 
 First Secretary at Paris, 139, 
 163 
 
 Police, Chief of the Secret, at- 
 tempt on his life, 22 
 
 Pompeii, 299 
 
 Potemkin, ruined palace of, 81 
 
 Pratasoff, Countess, Grande 
 Maitresse, 11 ; receives Lady 
 Dufferin, 12 ; at the Winter 
 Palace, 15 
 
 Preciozi, M., takes part in The 
 Critic, 177 
 
 Prinkipo, island of, 141, 162, 210, 
 222, 225 
 
 Probyn, General Sir Dighton, at 
 
 Petrograd, 115, 118 
 Pusey, Captain, 131 
 Pyramids, the, 241, 268 
 
 Radowitz, M., Ambassador at 
 Constantinople, 301, 309 
 
 Radzivill, Princess, 156 
 
 Ramadhan fast, 153 
 
 Rambler, the, 22, 225 
 
 Rameses II, 286, 295 
 
 Rameses III, portraits of, 290 
 
 Rawson, Captain, 308 
 
 Regatta, races, 229 ; sports, 230 
 
 Rhine, the, 124 
 
 " Robert College," prize-giving, 
 141 
 
 Rous, Mr., 314 
 
 Roxana ballet, 13 
 
 Russell, Lady Odo, 2, 52 
 
 Russell, Lord Odo, 2, 6 
 
 Russia, ballet, 13 ; dances, system 
 at, 62, 64 ; education, cost of, 
 34 ; police, amount spent on, 
 114 ; wedding service, 37 
 
 Russia, Cesarevitch, receives Lord 
 Dufferin, 18. See Alexander III 
 
 Russia, Cesarevna, receives Lady 
 Dufferin, 18. See Marie Feodo- 
 rovna 
 
 Russia, Empress of, receives Lady 
 Dufferin, 15 ; death, 99 ; lying- 
 in-state, 99 ; funeral, 100-102 
 
 S., Miss, at Cairo, 264 ; the V 
 
 Pyramids, 268 ; journey up the 
 
 Nile, 280, 294 
 Said Pasha, Grand Vizier, 132, 
 
 172, 218, 303 ; hard work, 221 
 Said Princess, receives Lady 
 
 Dufferin, 245, 296 ; at the 
 
 Garden Fete, 279 
 St. Basil Cathedral, Moscow, 92 M 
 
 St. Isaac's Church, Petrograd, 14 ; fl 
 
 ceremony at, 29 
 St. Moritz, Count, style of his 
 
 house, 249 
 St. Sophia, Stamboul, 150-152, 
 
 153 
 Sakkarah, 251 
 Sala, George Augustus, at the 
 
 funeral of Alexander II, 113 
 Sala, Madame della, 272, 298 
 Salamis, Bay of, 324 
 Sanderson, Sir Alfred, 147, 161 
 Sandford, Dr., Bishop of Gibraltar, 
 
INDEX 
 
 349 
 
 story of, 322 ; consecrates the 
 church at Therapia, 325 
 
 Santos, Madame, 60 
 
 Sartoris, Mr., 202 ; gipsy enter- 
 tainment, 142 ; dress at a fancy 
 ball, 148 ; death, 266 
 
 Saxe-Meiningen, Prince of, 5 
 
 Schliemann, Madame, 199 
 
 Schliemann, M., Museum, 200 
 
 Schliisselburg, cotton-mill, 103 ; 
 Fortress, 104 
 
 Schmetzky, 102 
 
 SchouvaloflE, Count, 21 ; bear- 
 shooting expedition, 105 ; 
 death, 186 
 
 Schouvaloff, Countess, 12, 51, 53, 
 54 ; at the Greek Church ser- 
 vice, 36 ; children's party, 57 ; 
 illness of her mother, 72 
 
 Schweinitz, General von. Am- 
 bassador at Petrograd, 22, 41 ; 
 dinner-parties, 61, 123 
 
 Schweinitz, Madame von, 16, 22 ; 
 at Berlin, 52 
 
 Scutari, 163 ; cemetery at, 192 
 
 Selby, Captain, shooting expedi- 
 tion, 183 ; accident, 184 ; death, 
 185; funeral, 186; grave, 192; 
 murderers sentenced, 216 
 
 Selby, Mrs., death of her husband, 
 185 ; arrival at Constantinople, 
 186 
 
 Selby, Miss, at Constantinople, 
 186 
 
 Serapeum, the, 251 
 
 Serge, Grand Duke, 26 
 
 Seti I, tomb of, 187 
 
 Seymour, Sir Beauchamp, at 
 Corfu, 124 
 
 " Shadoof," working of the, 282 
 
 Sherif Pasha, 238 
 
 SimonofE Monastery, 97 
 
 Sinadino, M., 271, 274 
 
 Sleeping Beauty, performance of, 6 
 
 Smolna, Institution for " Jeunes 
 Filles nobles," 120, 122 ; 
 asylum for old people, 120 
 
 Smyrna, concert in aid of the 
 sufferers in the earthquake, 310 
 
 Snow-white, performance of, 181 
 
 Soltikoff, Prince, 22, 71 
 
 Soltikoff, Princess, 8, 22 
 
 Sparrow Hill, 96 
 
 Stamboul, Museum, 183 ; Pigeon 
 Mosque, 153, 170; St. Sophia, 
 150-152, 153 
 
 Stchi, or cabbage soup, 96 
 
 Steiglitz, Baron, 32, 33 
 
 Stephen, Condie, Secretary at 
 
 Petrograd, 7, 17, 20 
 Stephenson, Captain, 308 
 Sterlet, 26 
 
 Strangford, Lady, 235, 332 ; hos- 
 pital, 240 
 Stratford, Lord, de Redcliffe, 
 
 anecdotes of, 261, 283 
 Stuart, Colonel, 247 
 Suffield, Charles, fifth Baron, at 
 
 Petrograd, 115 
 Suleiman Pasha, receives Lord 
 
 Dufferin, 126, 130 
 Sulphur baths, at Broussa, 331 
 Sutherland, George, third Duke of, 
 
 at Cairo, 267, 272 
 Swaine, Colonel, 16 
 Swaine, Major, takes part in The 
 
 Critic, 177 
 Syra, 232 
 
 Tahleaux-vivants, 160 
 Tchesme, 311 
 TchoglokofE, M., 81, 83 
 Teesdale, Colonel, at Petrograd, 
 
 115 ; in quarantine at Con- 
 stantinople, 334 
 Tel-el- Kebir, 257 ; battle of, 258 
 Temple, Sir Richard, at Therapia, 
 
 202 
 Therapia, 128, 129, 188, 201, 211 ; 
 
 English Church opened at, 215 ; 
 
 consecrated, 325 ; Regatta, 366 
 " Thi," tomb of, 252 
 Thunderer, the, 125 ; explosion on 
 
 board, 166 
 Tilburina, the, 210, 217, 221, 222, 
 
 225, 308, 327, 328 ; accident to, 
 
 228 
 Toboganning in Russia, 62 
 Tombs of the Kings, 287 ; of the 
 
 Queens, 290 
 Trapdoor Spiders, 267 
 Tricoupi, Miss, 324 
 Tricoupi, M., 195 
 Troika drives, 17, 54, 55, 58 
 Troitza Monastery, 98 
 Trotter, Major, 308 
 Tsarskoe-Seloe, 38, 43, 48 
 Turkish family, receive Lady 
 
 Dufferin, 173 ; ladies, their 
 
 dress, 154, 203 ; yashmaks, 190 
 Turks, entertained at dinner by 
 
 Lord and Lady Dufferin, 172 
 Tyrwhitt, Mr., 308 
 
 Udacha yacht, 103 
 Uddrias, 102 
 
350 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Vanutelli, Monsieur, 171 
 
 Varna, 299 
 
 Venice, 124 
 
 Victoria, Queen, telegram to Lady 
 Dufferin, 80 
 
 Villiers, Colonel, 80 ; bear-shoot- 
 ing expedition, 80 ; at Peterhof , 
 103 
 
 Vincino, Mile, 153 
 
 Vladimir, Grand Duke, no; re- 
 ceives Lord Dufferin, 19 ; din- 
 ner-party, 60 
 
 Vladimir, Marie Pavlovna, Grand 
 Duchess, receives LadyDufferin, 
 19 ; appearance, 60 
 
 Volta, the, 301 
 
 Wales, Prince of , 115. See Edward 
 VII 
 
 Wales, Princess of, 115. See 
 Alexandra 
 
 Wallace, Sir Donald Mackenzie, 
 135 ; takes part in The Critic, 
 177 
 
 Wallace, Lew, American Minister 
 at Constantinople, 188 
 
 Wallace, Mrs. Lew, funny ex- 
 pressions, 188 
 
 Wallace, M., 289 
 
 Wallenberg, Madame, 220, 221, 
 
 313 
 
 Wassilitchki, M., Curator of the 
 
 Botanical Gardens, 86 
 Water-carriers, 288 
 
 Wedding, an Egyptian, 236-238 . 
 the bride, 237 ; cost of, 246 ; 
 Russian, 37, 68 ; Turkish, 146, 
 202-210 ; the " Nuptial Cham- 
 ber," 204 ; the bride, 207 ; 
 bridegroom, 208 
 
 Wellesley, Admiral, 202 
 
 Wemyss, Francis, ninth Earl of, 
 ijj n 
 
 Werder, General, bear-shooting 
 expedition, 105 
 
 William I, Emperor of Germany, 
 2 ; receives Lord Dufferin, 5, 
 123 ; characteristics, 5 
 
 Winsler, Captain, 308 
 
 Wolmer, Lady, at Constantinople, 
 
 323 
 Wolmer, Lord, at Constantinople, 
 323 ; received by the Sultan, 
 
 323 
 
 Wolverton, George, second Baron, 
 at Therapia, 201 
 
 Wolverton, Lady, at Therapia, 201 
 
 Wrench, Mr., 321 
 
 Wyndham, Sir Hugh, Secretary 
 at Constantinople, 179, 333 ; 
 leaves, for England, 310 
 
 Wyndham, Mrs., at Constanti- 
 nople, 179, 333 ; at Therapia, 
 201, 212 ; leaves for England, 
 310 
 
 Zakhuska, custom of, 21, 55 
 Zeineb, Princess, 182 
 
 Printed by Hazell, Waison & Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury, England. 
 
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