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I 
 
A CENTENNIAL 
 
 COMMISSIONER IN EUROPE. 
 
 1874-76. 
 
 BY 
 
 . 
 
 JOHN W. FORNEY, 
 
 EDITOK OF "THE PHILADELPHIA PRESS.' 
 
 
 PHILADELPHIA! 
 
 J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 16 SOUTHAMPTON STREET, COVENT GARDEN. 
 
 1876. 
 
THE LIBRARY 
 Of CONGRESS 
 
 WASHINGTON 
 
 Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1876, by 
 
 J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO., 
 In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. 
 
 
ftf 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 Immediately after my return home I was greeted 
 
 by a general request that my letters from Europe 
 
 should appear in book form ; and overrun as I was by 
 
 a pressure of new engagements, I asked my old friend 
 
 and co-laborer, Dr. R. Shelton Mackenzie, to see them 
 
 through the press, which he has done with his usual 
 
 fidelity. 
 
 J. W. F. 
 
 Philadelphia, April 20, 1876. 
 
 (Hi) 
 
1776.] THE COMMISSION. [1876. 
 
 TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS MAY COME, GREET- 
 ING. 
 
 JOHN W. Forney, Esquire, of Philadelphia, is hereby authorized to 
 represent the United States Centennial Commission and the Centennial 
 Board of Finance in Great Britain and Ireland, and in the several nations 
 of Europe, in the circulation of all the needful information for a proper 
 understanding of the International Exhibition to be held in Philadelphia 
 in 1876, and for the encouragement of the people of those nations to be 
 represented therein by such of their productions as may exhibit the most 
 advanced skill in every department of the fine and useful arts. Com- 
 mending him earnestly to the respectful consideration of the people of all 
 nations, soliciting their attention to his presentation of the International 
 Exhibition, we are, etc., 
 
 (Seal) (Signed) A. T. GOSHORN, 
 
 Director- Genera I of the United States Commission. 
 (Attest signed) JOHN L. Campbell, Secretary. 
 
 (Seal) (Signed) John Welsh, 
 
 President of Centennial Board of Finance. 
 (Attest signed) FRED. FRALEY, Secretary. 
 
 Philadelphia, July 10, 1874. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGB 
 
 I. At Sea. — Approaching 1 Liverpool. —American Steamships. — 
 
 The Centennial. — Future Market of the World . . 9 
 
 II. "The Good Old Town" of Liverpool. — Noble Public Insti- 
 tutions. — Former Complicity in the Slave-Trade . . 14 
 
 III. Chester. — The Staffordshire Potteries. — The Ceramic Art. — 
 
 Birmingham. — Stratford. — Kenilworth. — Leamington. — 
 University of Oxford 18 
 
 IV. London to Folkestone and Boulogne. — England and France 
 
 Contrasted, with a Side-Look at America. — Paris during 
 the Siege, with Especial Reference to the Commissariat 
 Department. — A Model Boarding-House. — Present Con- 
 dition of the Gay Capital 24 
 
 V. France Reorganizes her Armies. — The Civil Service. — 
 French and English. — The Centennial Feeling Abroad — 
 Art News and Gossip. — The New French Opera-House. 
 
 — What it Costs to Live in Paris 30 
 
 VI. Hampton Court Palace. — Holland House. — Marden Park. 
 
 — Hotel Life. — Mrs. Dion Boucicault . . . -37 
 
 VII. Scientific Farming. — Mr. Lawes of Herts. — Succession and 
 
 Variations of Crops. — St. Albans Abbey . . . -41 
 VIII. A Professional Naturalist. — Zoological Gardens in London 
 
 and Philadelphia ........ 46 
 
 IX. Dulwich College. — Endowments by and for Actors . . 48 
 X. Municipal London. — Lord Mayor's Feast. — Official Costume 
 
 and Insignia ......... 50 
 
 XI. Windsor Castle, an Exterior View. — Its Scenery and Sur- 
 roundings • • • • 53 
 
 XII. In Whitefield's Chapel. — Mr. Bevan's Experiences in America 57 
 
 XIII. Captain Coram and Stephen Girard. — The Foundling Hos- 
 
 pital in London 61 
 
 XIV. Lyceum Theatre. — First Night of Henry Irving's " Hamlet." 63 
 XV. Crystal Palace at Sydenham ...... 67 
 
 XVI. Moncure D. Conway in the Pulpit. — His Peculiar Disbeliefs 72 
 XVII. Harrow-on-the-Hill. — Records of Illustrious Schoolboys . 75 
 
 (v) 
 
VI 
 
 XVIII. 
 XIX. 
 
 XX. 
 
 XXI. 
 XXII. 
 
 XXIII. 
 
 XXIV. 
 
 XXV. 
 
 XXVI. 
 
 XXVII. 
 
 XXVIII. 
 
 XXIX. 
 
 XXX. 
 
 XXXI. 
 
 XXXII. 
 
 XXXIII. 
 
 XXXIV. 
 
 XXXV. 
 
 XXXVI. 
 XXXVII. 
 
 XXXVIII. 
 XXXIX. 
 
 XL. 
 XLI. 
 XLII. 
 LXIII. 
 XL1V. 
 XLV. 
 XLVI. 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Flying Visit to Brighton 78 
 
 Manchester and Rochdale. — Visit to John Bright, M.P., 
 Tribune of the People ....... 79 
 
 Monsignor Capel. — His Preaching. — Catholics in the 
 
 United Kingdom -83 
 
 England and the Centennial ...... 86 
 
 Paris in New Year's Week. — Contrasted with London. — 
 Centennial Enthusiasm ...... 90 
 
 Louis Blanc. — The National Assembly in Session. — Ver- 
 sailles and Washington ...... 92 
 
 Lyons. — French Railway Travel. — Underpaid Foreign 
 Labor .......... 95 
 
 Lyons to Marseilles. — The Chateau d' If . . . . 100 
 
 Cannes. — Scenery and Climate. — Lord Brougham's Cha- 
 teau and Tomb ........ 102 
 
 Nice. — Thronged with Citizens of the World. — Unfor- 
 getting Patriots ........ 105 
 
 Gamblers at Monaco. — Genoa. — Relics of Columbus. — 
 The Bank of St. George ...... 107 
 
 Italian Railways. — American Artists in Florence. — Sculp- 
 ture 112 
 
 Among American Artists in Rome 115 
 
 American Church in Rome ...... 118 
 
 The Three Powers in Rome. — Garibaldi at Home . .122 
 Lafayette's Grandson. — His American and Family Sur- 
 roundings. — Enthusiasm for the Centennial . . 125 
 Captain Paul Boyton. — Swims across the English Chan- 
 nel. — Queen Victoria's Telegram .... 128 
 
 Chantilly Races.— The Courses and Stands. — Colonel 
 
 Bridgland on Franco-American Stock . . . 131 
 Bartholdi, the French Sculptor. — Scope of his Work . 137 
 Art Sales in London. — Plethora of Wealth. — Bank De- 
 posits . 141 
 
 American and British Hotels ...... 145 
 
 A " Blue Law" revived. — Sunday in London. — The 
 People and the Sabbath. — Sunday Newspapers . . 147 
 
 The Heralds' College in London 151 
 
 London Newspaper Press Fund Dinner .... 159 
 
 The Record Office in London. 164 
 
 The Peabody Buildings ....... 169 
 
 Visit to the Empress Eugenie 171 
 
 Chatham Dock- Yard. — British Iron-clads . . . 175 
 Relics of Early London 178 
 
CONTENTS. v ii 
 
 PAGE 
 
 XLVII. Canine Exhibition. — Home for Dogs. — Edwin Forrest's 
 
 " Dog of Montargis" 180 
 
 XLVIII. Fourth of July in London. — Journalism. — Political Aspect 186 
 XLIX. The Streets of London. — Ancient and Modern Lighting 
 
 of a City ......... 190 
 
 L. Centennial Feeling in France. — Diorama of the Siege of 
 
 Paris. — American Products and Securities . . . 193 
 LI. Belgium and Germany. — The Centennial in Berlin . . 199 
 
 LI I. Frankfort-on-the-Main 205 
 
 LI II. Spa. — Gaming-Houses Suppressed. — Friends Abroad . 208 
 LIV. Wiesbaden. — German Universities. — Champagne Man- 
 ufacture .......... 213 
 
 LV. Brussels. — Enthusiasm for the Centennial. — What Bel- 
 gium has done ........ 217 
 
 LVI. French Contributors to the Exposition .... 221 
 
 LVII. Diving. — Surrender of Yorktown. — Dion Boucicault . 224 
 LVIII. Bartholdi's Colossal Lighthouse. — M. Laboulaye. — Healy 
 
 the Painter . 226 
 
 LIX. The Continental and the English Sunday Street-watering 230 
 
 LX. The Drama in London 232 
 
 LXI. Sale of American Products Abroad ..... 238 
 
 LXII. London Journalism on American Topics. — Politico-Re- 
 ligious Issues ........ 253 
 
 LXIII. Slang — American and English ...... 261 
 
 LXIV. Wealth of London. — The Hebrew Race .... 267 
 
 LXV. The Season at the Sea-Shore ...... 270 
 
 LXVI. The Civil Service Supply Association .... 273 
 
 LXVII. National Education . 277 
 
 LXVIII. Catholic Cathedral at Westminster 282 
 
 LXIX. Chipping Norton. — A Master of the Hounds. — An An- 
 cient Manufactory 2S4 
 
 LXX. The Black Country 294 
 
 LXXI. Centennial Items 302 
 
 LXXII. A National Cat-Show 305 
 
 LXXIII. Panic on 'Change. — Turkish Insolvency and American 
 
 Securities . 310 
 
 LXXIV. European Financial Insecurity. — Atlantic Cable Tariff. 
 
 — Restaurant Prices 314 
 
 LXXV. Stonehenge. — Old and New Sarum ..... 319 
 
 LXXVI. Accession of Italy to the Centennial. — The Bartholdi 
 
 Monument ......... 330 
 
 LXXYII. Mr. P. Cunliffe Owen's Centennial Suggestion for 1976. 
 
 — A Curious Old Volume 333 
 
viii CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGB 
 
 LXXVIII. Russia and Italy come in 338 
 
 LXXIX. The Six Hundred of Balaklava. — Tennyson's "Charge 
 
 of the Light Brigade," and Drayton s " Agincourt" 340 
 LXXX. High Tone of the British Press. — Earl of Darnley's 
 
 Strange Proceeding 347 
 
 LXXXI. Foreign Exhibitors. — The Gramme Light . . . 351 
 LXXXII. Queen Victoria. — Murmurs of the Press. — Her Char- 
 acter of John Brown 354 
 
 LXXXIII. Russia, Tunis, and France at the Exposition . . 358 
 LXXXIV. Martin Farquhar Tupper's drama of " Washington" . 361 
 LXXXV. Social Gathering in Paris. — M. Laboulaye's Eloquence 368 
 LXXXVI. Captain Harrell. — The " Herald" Reading-Room in 
 
 Paris 372 
 
 LXXXVII. The Suez Canal 374 
 
 LXXXVIII. Mr. P. Cunliffe Owen, C.B 379 
 
 LXXXIX. "The Times" 383 
 
 XC. Queen Victoria opens the Parliamentary Session of 1876. 386 
 
 XCI. Weston the Pedestrian 389 
 
 XCII. The Change in British Feeling 393 
 
 XCIII. Homeward Bound 399 
 
 XCIV. Conclusion 404 
 
A CENTENNIAL COMMISSIONER 
 IN EUROPE. 
 
 i. 
 
 At Sea. — Approaching Liverpool. — American Steamships. — The Centen- 
 nial. — Future Market of the World. 
 
 When Dr. Samuel Johnson described a ship as a prison 
 with a fair chance in which to be drowned, he had no such 
 vision as a steamer like the Illinois. A century ago, when 
 the great philosopher wrote and talked, the world had not 
 been roused from its sleep, and men traversed sea and land 
 by slow and often painful methods. We left Philadelphia 
 at 8.30 a.m., Thursday, July 9, 1874, and from that hour 
 to the present the trip has been a summer excursion, 
 slightly varied by a little sickness among the passengers. 
 It was like one family party on a pleasure-jaunt. When 
 I got aboard I found that I knew nearly everybody, and 
 certainly that everybody knew me. Herein lies the charm 
 of this Philadelphia line. Apart from the superior, stanch 
 sea-going qualities of the ships, their multiplied modern 
 conveniences, and the stern discipline of their manage- 
 ment, the fact that they are floating homes makes them 
 peculiarly attractive. They are in all respects American : 
 organized in America, with American accommodations, 
 a* 9 
 
IO AMERICAN STEAMSHIPS. 
 
 the only vessels bound to Europe floating the American 
 flag, built of American wood and iron, by American me- 
 chanics, at an American port. You feel as you enter them 
 as if you were entering your own residence. 
 
 Everybody is well and happy. There have been several 
 hot days, and sleep has been disturbed, but not more than 
 in many a house ashore. The discipline is so good, the 
 ventilation so unexceptionable, and the behavior of the pas- 
 sengers to one another so cordial, that nobody complains. 
 The price of a ticket from Philadelphia to San Francisco 
 by rail is one hundred and forty dollars, exclusive of meals. 
 The price to Liverpool from Philadelphia by the Illinois, 
 board included, is, for the cabin, seventy-five to one hun- 
 dred dollars; intermediate, thirty-five dollars; steerage, 
 twenty-five dollars; from which you can see how much 
 cheaper it is to see the Old World than it is to visit only a 
 portion of your own country. Many wealthy people are 
 intermediates, who pay but thirty-five dollars, and the 
 steerage company includes many intelligent persons, from 
 whom I have gathered much information. They are going 
 to England and Ireland to see their parents or their friends, 
 to return after a short stay to their adopted country. 
 Though emigration has largely fallen off, few of our for- 
 eign population go back to Europe to remain. Many of 
 those on the Illinois have grown rich in America, and look 
 forward to their native places in Europe with the more in- 
 terest that, having left them very poor, they return well off 
 in the world. I could name several who left Europe forty 
 years ago, young and destitute, and are ar present prosper- 
 ous and influential. How such examples operate I need 
 not discuss. They are the most effective of all agencies. 
 There are no such characters sent forth from any other 
 country. They are our best missionaries. In England 
 there is a system under which, no matter how fortunate 
 Capital may be, Labor never rises to the hopeful and con- 
 
THE CENTENNIAL. n 
 
 trolling attitude it maintains in America. It is this dif- 
 ference that must largely affect the destinies of the two 
 countries ; a difference that will be strikingly developed 
 in 1S76. Our World's Exhibition, growing rapidly and 
 largely in the eyes of foreigners, will of necessity be the 
 event of the age. As an eminent Englishman remarked 
 to me in Washington a few months ago: "Your Centen- 
 nial is important to Great Britain in every sense, but 
 chiefly in a commercial sense. Your manufacturers are 
 our successful rivals in many branches. We must open 
 new avenues for our fabrics, and your fair is our oppor- 
 tunity." 
 
 Manage that Exposition as we may, it will therefore 
 greatly affect the United States abroad. I learn from good 
 authority that it is becoming a topic of general discussion 
 in Europe ; and now that the Government has directed 
 our diplomatic and consular representatives abroad to give 
 it attention, and that hundreds of voluntary agencies are 
 at work in the persons of American travellers, there is con- 
 stant inducement to the Centennial Commissioners to in- 
 crease their exertions. They need not be told that this 
 memorial is not the work of one government among many 
 on the same continent. It is not like England in 1851 
 and i860, or France in 1867, or Austria in 1873 — tne 
 affair of one people only. It is the demonstration of an 
 entire continent, and of the dominant power of that con- 
 tinent — a power which is the best customer of England, 
 and one of the best of France ; which is largely occupied 
 by an immense infusion of Irish blood and brain ; which 
 has drawn and is drawing heavily upon the energies of 
 Germany; and which is an object of growing interest to 
 every other foreign country. No such elements operated in 
 any of the former European expositions. They were mag- 
 nificent displays of art, science, and invention ; but they 
 had none of th-.- peculiarities of the American Centennial. 
 
12 FUTURE MARKET OF THE WORLD. 
 
 Each spoke for a particular government or race. That of 
 America must of necessity reflect the ideas of the children 
 of many races ; must attract the attention of the leaders 
 of every school. In fact, the American Centennial is the 
 Genesis of a new civilization. 
 
 The enthusiasm of the passengers on the Illinois in re- 
 gard to Philadelphia and the Centennial is a study. I 
 hope they will pardon me when they read this for saying 
 that it made me very happy. Gathered from every walk 
 in life, and from every portion of the State, each seems to 
 be full of the subject. This is singularly true of the 
 adopted citizens who are going home to see their friends 
 in Ireland, England, and Germany. They are all proud 
 of the city and State in which they have grown rich. They 
 will tell the story of their rise from poverty to wealth 
 among their proud and wondering friends at home, and 
 they will not fail to relate the story of the Centennial. 
 Lawyers, doctors, actors and artists, correspondents and 
 editors, all seem to be animated by the same feeling. 
 Confidence in ourselves is the key to the future; make 
 that universal, and the end is sure. 
 
 I am more than ever impressed, as I see the good results 
 produced by our noble American-built steamers, with their 
 heavy freights, full complement of happy passengers, and 
 excellent management, as to the paramount justice of pro- 
 tecting American' manufactures. All late experience proves 
 that what we call free trade helps foreign capitalists alone. 
 On the other hand, e>ery aid granted by Congress to 
 American capital, in the development of American industry 
 or resources, healthfully reacts 1 upon the masses and upon 
 government. What peopled the West, what gave us the 
 mighty empire on the Pacific, but the principle of govern- 
 ment protection to American enterprise? 
 
 If this Government had not bought California, had not 
 helped individual enterprise to build the Pacific Railroad 
 
FUTURE MARKET OF THE WORLD. 
 
 *3 
 
 and to rival British steamers on the Pacific, we should be 
 at the mercy of our European rivals, with no such States 
 as Illinois, Iowa, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Kansas, and Ne- 
 braska, and no such treasure-houses of gold and wheat as 
 California, Nevada, Oregon, and Washington. To-day we 
 are masters of the trade of the future, by English confes- 
 sion. Our tariff saves us from the rivalry of the pauper- 
 paid products of England. Our well-paid workmen are 
 forcing their way even into the British market. Our ship- 
 ping interest, destroyed by the rebellion, is retarded alone 
 by the fact that British ships can be built cheaper by the 
 cheap labor of Europe. England has free trade only to 
 help herself. She builds railroads in India with English 
 money, given by millions and almost hundreds of millions 
 of dollars, to check the advance of her rival, Russia. She 
 subsidized her ocean steamers heavily up to the period 
 when she felt she might withdraw her help, because America 
 might become her customer for cheap steamers on the 
 Clyde. At the beginning of this century she was the most 
 despotic protectionist of her own interests in the world. 
 No improved machinery could be sent from Liverpool to 
 America, lest the latter might compete with England in 
 the markets of America. To-day, her best customer and 
 also her most formidable rival is this same America. It 
 remains for us to say whether we shall consent to a policy 
 which leaves us wholly at the mercy of a power which is 
 free trade or protection, as it suits her interests or incli- 
 nation. 
 
 If our statesmen of both parties desire to relieve the 
 country, let them relieve our industries, build more Pacific 
 railroads, revive our shipyards, and freely subsidize our 
 great steam lines on the ocean. There is nothing England 
 fears so much as tin's policy. Establish it firmly, and main- 
 tain it for a reasonable period, and you transfer the market 
 of the world from London to Philadelphia or New York. 
 
 2 
 
14 LIVERPOOL. 
 
 There can be no geographical centre when we divide the 
 earth with steam and lightning. The nation most success- 
 ful in preserving its independence by the development of 
 its own resources is sure ultimately to revolutionize and 
 control the world. 
 
 July 20, 1874. 
 
 II. 
 
 "The Good Old Town" of Liverpool. — Noble Public Institutions. — For- 
 mer Complicity in the Slave-Trade. 
 
 Comparatively few Americans stop at Liverpool ; they 
 hurry through to the great world of London, and thereby 
 lose much of interest in the leading seaport of the nations. 
 Liverpool is a very interesting town. Its present popula- 
 tion is 493,405, and yet its commerce is larger than that of 
 any other port on earth. It is the distinctive "City of the 
 Sea," situated on the eastern bank of the estuary of the 
 Mersey, very near its junction with the Irish Channel, in 
 the county of Lancaster, one hundred miles west of Leeds, 
 two hundred and one miles northwest of London, two 
 hundred and twelve miles south of Edinburgh, two hundred 
 and twenty miles southeast of Glasgow, and one hundred 
 and twenty miles east of Dublin. 
 
 What especially interests the American in modern Liver- 
 pool are the municipal government, the streets, and the 
 public buildings. Three members of Parliament are elected 
 for Liverpool ; there are forty-eight Councillors, sixteen 
 Aldermen, and a Mayor. The office of Mayor is generally 
 conferred on the most distinguished citizen. It is the 
 universal verdict that no taint of corruption attaches to 
 any of these servants of the people. 
 
 The environs are exquisitely beautiful, and the gre.it 
 
LIVERPOOL. 
 
 15 
 
 parks objects of ever-renewing interest. Stanley Park, 
 opened in 1S70, cost the Corporation about one hundred 
 and fifty thousand pounds sterling. The view from this 
 splendid enclosure, laid out in walks, drives, grass-plots, 
 and flower-beds, and adorned by a spacious ornamental 
 lake, opens before you extensive glimpses of the surround- 
 ing country and the distant ocean. Sefton Park, an area 
 of four hundred acres, purchased from the Earl of Sefton 
 at a cost of one hundred and fifty thousand pounds sterling, 
 is singularly picturesque, opening out a noble prospect of 
 the adjacent residences of the nobility and gentry. There, 
 also, is the celebrated Prince's Park. 
 
 The churches are very numerous, representing every de- 
 nomination; some of them are inconceivably grand. I was 
 particularly struck with the Exchange News Rooms. We 
 happened to arrive just as the merchants were congregating, 
 and their appearance, dignity, manner of speech, and cos- 
 tume, altogether indicated refinement and great wealth. 
 In the quadrangular area of the Exchange stands a monu- 
 ment to the memory of Lord Nelson, a colossal work of 
 art, erected at an expense of nine thousand pounds ster- 
 ling. The News Rooms cover an area of one thousand 
 and eighty-four feet, and one room is one hundred and five 
 feet in length and ninety in breadth, exclusive of the bar. 
 The height is fifty feet to the base of the dome or ceiling. 
 At night this room is lighted by eight massive chandeliers, 
 and here are found not only the subscribers, of whom there 
 are four thousand, but strangers from all parts of the world. 
 
 St. George's Hall is a magnificent structure ; the organ, 
 by Willis of London, is one of the largest instruments in the 
 world, and of stupendous power. I noticed statues in honor 
 of Sir Robert Peel, Sir William Brown, Joseph Mayer (the 
 bountiful donor and founder of the museum which bears 
 his name), George Stephenson, the late Lord Derby, and 
 Mr. Gladstone. The total length of this splendid edifice 
 
:6 NOBLE PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 is four hundred and sixty-five feet. At the northern end 
 there is an equestrian statue of Queen Victoria, finished in 
 1S71, to correspond with the statue of the late Prince 
 Albert. 
 
 Brown's Free Public Library and Museum was pre- 
 sented by the late Sir William Brown. The corner-stone 
 was laid in 1857, and the building finished in October, 
 1 £60, at a cost of forty thousand pounds. Here is the 
 great collection of potteries and the noble collection of 
 birds bequeathed to Liverpool by the late Lord Derby, 
 and here is also deposited the munificent gift known as 
 the " Mayer Collection," a remarkable product of energy 
 and perseverance, the life-work of one man. The Free 
 Library is supported by the public, and is open from ten 
 a.m. to ten p.m. When we came in, many persons, men 
 and women, evidently of the middle class, were seated 
 reading at the desks. In addition to these treasures I must 
 not forget the representative collection of ceramic works, 
 said to be the most perfect specimens of the great Wedg- 
 wood. The services are very rich, and there is one of the 
 thirty copies which were made of the Portland Vase. The 
 value of this collection is upwards of one hundred and 
 twenty thousand pounds, not including the gift of Mr. 
 Mayer and a most extensive collection of coins. 
 
 The Corporation Baths occupy a handsome building of 
 two hundred and thirty-nine feet in length and eighty- 
 seven feet in breadth, with separate divisions for both sexes, 
 and are fitted up very elegantly. The water is taken from 
 the Mersey into a spacious tank, capable of receiving eight 
 hundred tons, and then raised by steam-engines into a 
 reservoir, where it is filtered until it becomes as clear as 
 crystal. The charges are for warm baths, twopence, four- 
 pence, and eighteenpence ; for cold baths, threepence and 
 sixpence ; warm shower-baths, sixpence. Precisely such 
 an establishment is grievously needed in Philadelphia. 
 
FORMER COMPLICITY IN THE SLAVE-TRADE. 
 
 17 
 
 In Liverpool the American meets for the first time the 
 well-known cab called the " Hansom." Here also are our 
 familiar street railroads. 
 
 Such a thing as a telegraph-pole — the unsightly nuisance 
 which disfigures all our American cities — is unknown in 
 England. The wires are stretched along the tops of the 
 houses, or are laid under the streets, and I am constantly 
 asking why the same plan is not adopted in our country. 
 
 You have an explanation of the hostility at Liverpool to 
 the North during our civil war, when you are reminded 
 that from this port, in 1760, one-quarter of its vessels were 
 engaged in the inhuman Slave-Trade. No fewer than 
 ninety vessels engaged in this nefarious traffic sailed from 
 this one city alone, and carried about twenty-five thousand 
 seven hundred and fifty slaves. Privateering also engaged 
 the capital of many of the merchants, precisely as blockade- 
 running did from i860 to 1865. It is pleasing to know 
 that the bitterness and anger too common in this great town 
 eight and ten years ago is succeeded by an evident desire 
 to promote amicable arrangements with the United States. 
 
 July, 1874. 
 
 2* 
 
THE STAFFORDSHIRE POTTERIES. 
 
 III. 
 
 Chester. — The Staffordshire Potteries. — The Ceramic Art. — Birmingham. 
 — Stratford. — Kenilworth. — Leamington. — University of Oxford. 
 
 What a garden is England ! There is infinite progress 
 in the large towns, but the beauty of the country must be 
 the work of the ages. The old castles, the ancient inns, 
 the super-solid roads, the vast estates, closed in with high 
 stone or brick walls, the narrow streets, even the small 
 towns, are so many evidences of the centuries of experience 
 through which this great country has attained its present 
 strong position. 
 
 You leave Liverpool by rail, and after a short ride reach 
 the famous and ancient city of Chester, with its cathedral 
 eight hundred years old ; the curious wall that still sur- 
 rounds it, from one tower of which Charles I. saw his 
 army routed by the hosts of Cromwell ; the ancient "Rows," 
 distinctly recalling a period far remote ; the Castle, a record 
 in stone of the Roman occupation ; and the luxurious estate 
 of the new Duke of Westminster, Eaton Hall. 
 
 After a good night's rest in Chester at the principal 
 hotel, "The Queen's," we started for the Staffordshire 
 Potteries, traversing a region of varied interest and beauty. 
 The miniature houses and gardens at most of the stations 
 looked like toy-shops, with their flowers woven into all 
 sorts of figures and forms, and seemed an odd set-off to 
 the great palaces of the gentry and nobility, of which we 
 had glimpses in the distance. The history of the world is 
 traced in the progress of the earthen, glass, or stone arti- 
 cles of the saloon, the parlor, the library, and the kitchen, 
 used by the respective nations. Under the generic name 
 
THE STAFFORDSHIRE POTTERIES. 
 
 *9 
 
 of pottery, which includes all the varieties of earthenwork, 
 from porcelain down, you go back to the fifteenth and six- 
 teenth centuries in Italy, Belgium, Germany, France, and 
 in the seventeenth and eighteenth to England. England 
 unquestionably leads in supplying the demand of most 
 countries with all the varieties of these elegant and useful 
 works. I was attracted to the Potteries by the growing 
 interest in the ceramic art in the United States, illustrated 
 by the enterprise at Trenton, N. J., and by the immense 
 sums of money spent in our great cities for the products 
 of these English manufactories. 
 
 Our visit to the Potteries in Staffordshire was a revela- 
 tion. The district in which they are located is only about 
 ten miles in length by one and a half in width ; yet into 
 this narrow space are crowded two hundred and sixty estab- 
 lishments, of which one hundred and thirty-four are devoted 
 to earthenware, sixty to china, twenty-six to Parian, and 
 forty miscellaneous. Here most of the finest wares and 
 ornaments are manufactured, and thousands of persons are 
 employed. The clays are mainly English; some are dug 
 in the vicinity of Burslem. The English trade dates back 
 into the seventeenth century. In i 759, Josiah Wedgwood, 
 whose marble statue at Stoke-on-Trent attracts much atten- 
 tion, invented the exquisite adaptations, including terra- 
 cotta, jasper, and the famous queen's-ware so much in 
 fashion a few years ago, that made him illustrious in 
 English history. 
 
 We traversed the renowned Minton works, in which the 
 finest conceptions of Wedgwood and his successors are 
 wrought into marvellous forms by the skill of the present 
 age. I was surprised at its comparatively small and an- 
 cient appearance. Yet here were fourteen hundred men 
 and women, boys and girls, closely engaged. The show- 
 room was a treasure of vases, flowers, figures, goblets, with 
 curious devices of all ages and tastes, copies of the long- 
 
20 BIRMINGHAM. 
 
 gone past and models of the living present. The process 
 of manufacture was very curious. Here was the clay in its 
 plastic state turned into inconceivable shapes by the wheel 
 of the machinery and the cunning of the human hand ; the 
 kneaded lump worked into cup and saucer, bowl and 
 goblet, next passed into another room to dry, then to 
 another to receive the picture, then to the oven to be 
 annealed into perfect beauty. The exquisite statuettes we 
 see in terra-cotta in our windows at Gay's, Tyndale & 
 Mitchell's, Caldwell's, and Bailey's, with the flower-baskets 
 and bouquets, and the wonderful conceits on walls and 
 pillars, all come hence. It was a liberal education to 
 watch how skilfully the artists did their work, and how 
 quickly. 
 
 There was, however, in all this rapid review a practical 
 side. I allude to what are known as "encaustic tiles," 
 which have become an essential feature in nearly every 
 public and private building in England, and which, as 
 contributing to beauty, cleanliness, and durability, and 
 freedom from vermin, I hope to see covering the sides and 
 ceilings of our American houses. They are sometimes 
 used on our floors, but rarely on the sides and ceilings of 
 our rooms and halls. They are not so cheap as our modern 
 processes, such as what we call calcimining, but they out- 
 last all other methods. 
 
 From Stoke we rode to Birmingham — a robust, healthy, 
 noble town ! We came into it with a sort of moral pro- 
 logue worthy of remembrance and imitation in Philadel- 
 phia. The railroad station is over a mile from our hotel. 
 We took a four-wheeled hack. Two friends who were with 
 me asked, as we started, "How much apiece?" I said, 
 "One shilling." We got to the hotel, and each offered 
 his shilling to Cabby. He said, "No, gentlemen, my 
 charge is only a shilling for all." 
 
 Birmingham had a population of 444,545 at the last 
 
BIRMINGHAM. 21 
 
 census, and 65,371 inhabited houses. In 1841 the popula- 
 tion was only 182,122, a growth that, large as it is, bears 
 no proportion to the increase of Chicago or St. Louis. 
 We must look at a k\v of the products of Birmingham to 
 see the diversified capacity of this wonderful workshop 
 of the nations. In its rifle-factories it employs 4328 per- 
 sons; in brass, 3892; in locomotives, 1661 ; in iron, 
 1561 ; in buttons, 1578; it has goldsmiths, 2477; coach- 
 makers, 1 1 48. Women are largely employed in lace, 
 polishing, japanning, ribbons, steel pens, silk, and cotton. 
 I name these occupations to show how nearly they are 
 similar with ours ; and when I showed a friend in Bir- 
 mingham how many people are employed in Philadelphia, 
 and at what wages, and our population, the value of our 
 annual products, the number of our houses, many owned 
 by our mechanics, he exclaimed, "And this is only one 
 of your cities ! What you tell me of New York, Chicago, 
 and St. Louis, is equally wonderful. Of course, I will be 
 at the Centennial." 
 
 The churches and hospitals of Birmingham impressed 
 me beyond utterance. The Hospital of St. Thomas was 
 founded in 1285 ! St. Martin's Church is so old that its 
 origin is lost, and the foundation of the present structure 
 belongs to the early part of the thirteenth century ! The 
 public buildings are superb, as you may judge when the 
 town hall is one hundred and forty-five feet in length, 
 sixty-five in width, and in height sixty-five. Here John 
 Bright, who represents Birmingham, has frequently spoken 
 to four thousand persons. I cannot describe its parks, 
 its railroad stations, its great Exchange, its theatres, its 
 statues, its devotional temples, its great colleges. 
 
 Stratford-on-Avon is about twenty-six miles from Bir- 
 mingham, and a pleasant ride it was. We had a second- 
 class car, and a first-class farmer to talk to. "Your crop 
 is thin this year," I said. "Yes," he replied; "we have 
 
2 2 STRA TFORD.— WAR WICK. 
 
 had little rain to speak of. Pray, are you not Americans?" 
 "Yes, all three." " You like England ?" "Very much, 
 but our own country ever so much more." " I don't won- 
 der ; my boy is away over yonder in Marysville, California, 
 and is doing right well, sir, and he is asking me to come to 
 him." "Are you well off here, sir ?" "Very nice, indeed, 
 but we need our boy." " Stay where you are and let him 
 come to you, as he can for a small sum, if he is only sober 
 and good." "I thank you, sir. Here you are in Strat- 
 ford, and you will find Shakspeare waiting for you. He 
 has a strong, warm side for you Americans." 
 
 Stratford, like all the show towns of England, is swept 
 clean as a parlor. The streets in these places are a marvel. 
 The rain here cools the air, but never makes mire. The 
 sun never makes ague. Americans were in force at Shak- 
 speare's house and grave. The English were few. No 
 French ; no Dutch ; no Italians, and few Germans ! Nearly 
 all Yankees — keen, sharp, cultured, generous, grateful; 
 never tell me America does not love England and her 
 treasures. 
 
 We posted across the country from Stratford to Kenil- 
 worth, Warwick, Guy's Cliff, and Leamington. How level 
 the road ! Great oaks or beeches, large, fine houses of the 
 gentry, suffocating villages of the poor, strong beer and 
 bad gin, no population on the roads, all elegant, odorous, 
 and silent — a breezy day and a desolate distance. We saw 
 Warwick, its entrance carved through stone, its lordly halls 
 half ruined by the fire of 1871, its pictures by the oldest 
 artists, the bed in which Queen Mary slept, the great tower 
 — and having duly paid our shilling apiece at the Castle, 
 and our sixpence to see the great " Warwick Vase," found 
 in the Emperor Adrian's villa at Tivoli, capable of hold- 
 ing one hundred and sixty-eight gallons, we retired, and 
 posted on to Kenilworth, five miles. When we got there 
 the lovely evening had made a picture of the venerable 
 
UNIVERSITY OF OXFORD. 2 % 
 
 place, not less lovely because there were sweet children 
 and ladies on the lawn, and an artist, with his canvas on a 
 portable frame, painting the scene from the green fore- 
 ground. Here you stand in the midst of the centuries. 
 From Henry I. to Elizabeth, Kenilworth was the theatre 
 of war, diplomacy, and intrigue. Earl Clarendon is the 
 present owner. 
 
 From Kenilworth to Leamington is about five miles. 
 If Kenilworth is redolent of the past, Leamington is the 
 trophy of the present. It is the growth of modern man- 
 ners and customs — a mitigated sort of Saratoga — its heal- 
 ing waters and historic surroundings attracting crowds. 
 England never suffers from what we know as summer. 
 When Americans run off to the mountains and seaside in 
 July, " the season" is at its height in London. 
 
 From Leamington by rail to another cluster of the cen- 
 turies — Oxford — fifty-five miles from London. Here we 
 stood among the stony records of ages of literature. From 
 Alfred to Victoria we read the story of the gigantic growth 
 of England. Over eight thousand students gather in these 
 venerable chambers. Twenty-one Colleges and six Halls 
 constitute what is called the University. One library — the 
 Bodleian, of three hundred thousand volumes, next to the 
 British Museum ; a vast procession of portraits of the great 
 graduates and chiefs of the venerable institution ; ancient 
 groves, and lawns, and alcoves, with "Addison's Walk," 
 recalling the memory of the gentle Spectator. You might 
 give a week, a month, a year, to Oxford, and still find 
 material for interest and information. 
 
 August, 1874. 
 
24 LONDON TO BOULOGNE. 
 
 IV. 
 
 London to Folkestone and Boulogne. — England and France Contrasted, 
 with a Side-Look at America. — Paris during the Siege, with Especial 
 Reference to the Commissariat Department. — A Model Boarding-House. 
 — Present Condition of the Gay Capital. 
 
 From London, with Mr. McMichael, to look into Paris 
 and to see if we could not together help the Centennial 
 before he returns, is a ten hours' ride. A trip ticket costs, 
 going and coming, about twenty-five dollars in a first- 
 class carriage. Seven years ago I crossed from Dover to 
 Calais ; last week we crossed from Folkestone to Boulogne, 
 and both times the sea was as smooth as the De'aware, be- 
 tween Philadelphia and Camden, on a summer evening. 
 
 Folkestone was full of English people seeking health from 
 the sea. The English girls are not nearly so lovely as ours, 
 yet they excel in " the low sweet voice." They are never 
 loud, and the flexibility and sweetness of their tones are, 
 let me say it, in strong contrast to the too often sharp and 
 aggressive utterance of our ladies. Call it affectation, if 
 you please, the cultured English speak the best English. 
 And now we are at Boulogne — the Boulogne of English 
 bankrupts in olden railroad times escaping from hungry 
 creditors. How French, how white, how sandy, and how 
 sunny! Where are all the people? The day is not hot ; 
 but, save the idlers on the long bridge, Fashion seems to 
 have gone asleep. Two hours ago I left England, and 
 here is France ! Engl.ind, robust, ruddy, and self-assuring 
 — France, prim, peculiar, and opinionated. At Folkestone 
 the sea-shore was full of gayly-dressed crowds, and there 
 was hardly any visible commerce. At Boulogne there were 
 
ENGLAND AND FRANCE CONTRASTED. 
 
 2 5 
 
 great ships unloading, and sailors and tar and nets and an 
 ''ancient and fishlike smell." Workingmen in blue blouses, 
 and women without bonnets or caps, old and young, with 
 curious shoes, some wooden and some slippers. It was a 
 picturesque contrast. 
 
 From Boulogne to Paris, a long waste of nearly two 
 hundred miles of willows and poplars and the sepulchral 
 stone that prevails in France from chateau to cottage; 
 women in the fields cutting the grass and grain, following 
 the horses, and bending over among the vegetables for the 
 towns. It was so dry and white, and evidently so sterile, 
 and the crops looked so thin, and the little houses so 
 broken, and the roads so ghastly white, that I shut my 
 eyes and longed for the green lanes of England or for the 
 broad, fresh acres of Chester and Lancaster in my own 
 native Pennsylvania, to come back to me. 
 
 I have been staying since my arrival in Paris at Madame 
 Dijon's Pension, 29 Rue Caumartin. A pension is a board- 
 ing-house, but it is very different from that institution as 
 we know it in Philadelphia. You get into it, as you do 
 into most Paris edifices, public and private, by what looks 
 like the gate of a great stable or barnyard. The house 
 is built round a court, and the windows of nearly all 
 the rooms, instead of opening into the street, look down 
 into this court. You ring at the outer gate, which swings 
 open, and a Frenchwoman, who talks no English, motions 
 you to the first floor, which ought to be the second, but is 
 not, and there you meet Madame Dijon, who, happily, 
 talks French and English, and is a sharp, curly lady, who 
 has divided her century with a smile for the wintry half 
 upon which she has entered. Think of it — nine francs a 
 day (about two dollars of our money), with a good room, 
 good bed, attendance, and meals ! That is what her 
 boarders pay. At the Grand Hotel, the L'Athenee, and 
 the Louvre, you escape well at twenty-five francs, or six 
 
2 6 PARIS DURING THE SIEGE. 
 
 dollars a day. Better bread, butter, coffee, omelets, beef- 
 steak, fruit, or pastry, than you get from Madame Dijon, 
 could not be provided. Two meals a day — breakfast from 
 nine to eleven ; dinner from six to eight. Waffles at 
 breakfast and wine at dinner included in the nine francs. 
 Madame Dijon has about thirty boarders, and her fine fare 
 and low rates attract about thirty more from the hotels, 
 and she is rich, having been at the business for forty years. 
 
 Madame was in Paris during the siege and the Commune, 
 and although, as I talked to her, she was a little chary 
 about the cats, I thought she yielded a little on the question 
 of horse. I have before me now a curious little record of 
 the sufferings of the Paris people during these terrible in- 
 tervals. It is entitled " Diary of the Siege of Paris," taken 
 from GalignanV s Messenger, the English paper, and was 
 written by one of the editors and owners of that great 
 journal, J. C. Mackenzie, Esq., the brother of Dr. Mac- 
 kenzie of The Press. I fear if Madame Dijon ever reads 
 these pages she will think I betrayed her secret, but as I 
 may not see Paris often before the next Centennial, 1976, 
 I venture a few extracts from this little book. It is the 
 journal of one hundred and thirty-two days during which, 
 to employ Mr. Mackenzie's language, " Paris was hemmed 
 in by an impenetrable circle of iron. The railways had 
 been cut, the post-office was no longer able to transmit 
 letters, and the telegraph lines had ceased to act— in fact, 
 the great French capital had been as much debarred from 
 communication with the outer world as if it had been all at 
 once reduced to the very lowest depth in the scale of civil- 
 ization." 
 
 After chaffing Madame Dijon about the food she supplied 
 to her boarders during these one hundred and thirty-two 
 days, and conversing with the author of this interesting 
 little volume, I was not surprised to read in it such state- 
 ments as these : 
 
PARTS DURING THE SIEGE. 
 
 27 
 
 Sept. 29, 1870.— Provisions rising in price ; fresh butter, 4 francs a pound ; 
 a fowl, 6 francs ; a rabbit, 7 francs. 
 
 Oct. 8. — All salt provisions have now disappeared from the market, and 
 there is no butter to be found there ; a lean fowl, 8 francs; a fat one, 12 
 francs; carp, 10 to 12 francs. Asses' flesh has appeared on some of the 
 stalls at 1 franc 25 centimes the pound. 
 
 Oct. 12. — Horseflesh eaten very generally, and considered palatable. 
 Turkeys have risen to 25 francs (#5), and some to 30 francs; chickens, 
 12 francs. 
 
 Oct. 15. — Provisions continue to advance in prices. 
 
 Oct. 22. — Provisions scarcer every day ; ass, 3 francs the pound ; horse- 
 rump steak, 5 francs the pound. 
 
 Nov. 16. — A shop opened in Belleville for the sale of dogs, cats, rats, and 
 sparrows. 
 
 Dec. 1. — Seventy-ninth day of the siege. Weather dreadfully severe, 
 four degrees below zero. 
 
 Dec. 3. — Mortality increasing in consequence of the terrible cold ; a 
 turkey, 70 francs (about $16). 
 
 Dec. 10. — Fresh butter, 30 francs the pound ; a turkey, 95 francs ; nearly 
 all the gas-lamps without lights; theatrical representations entirely at an end. 
 
 Dec. 16. — At Central Market, horse fillet, 16 francs a pound; dog, 3 
 francs per pound ; a rabbit, 30 to 35 francs ; a turkey, 100 francs (about $2u). 
 
 Dec. 25. — Horses of the Paris Cab Company reduced from 4000 to 1000, 
 part taken for the army, the rest for human food ; a turkey, no francs ; a 
 duck, 36 ; a rabbit, 40; a chicken, 30. 
 
 Dec. 26. — The bodies of the animals of one of the public zoological 
 gardens exposed for sale for food. The camel, dromedary, kangaroo, and 
 elephant, 10 francs a pound; antelopes, stags, and bears, 15 francs at first, 
 then 20 ; large sale of dead dogs and cats in the Market St. Germain at 
 about 30 francs the pound. 
 
 Dec. orj. — Outcry for wood becoming more and more desperate, poorer 
 classes at night pulling down palisades and wooden defences. 
 
 Dec. 31. — Mortality, afflicting to say, much increased. In the market a 
 turkey sells for 180 francs; a goose, 150; eggs, 3 francs (60 cents) apiece. 
 
 jfan. 1, 1871. — One hundred and fifth day of the siege. The writer ot 
 these brief items was to-day waited on by his landlord, a man of large 
 property, probably 150,000 francs a year, and after the usual compliments 
 of the season, very gravely stated that in ordinary times he would most 
 probably have offered a box of bonbons or some other such trifle, but at 
 the present time he would show his esteem by bringing something useful, 
 at the same time presenting his tenant a paper bag containing 25 potatoes. 
 Present received with gratitude. 
 
 There are over two millions of people in Paris, and as I 
 
2 8 THE BOULEVARDS. 
 
 pass along these boulevards and streets, walking or riding, 
 it is almost impossible to believe these statements; and yet 
 with such a witness, whose figures are facts, and whose facts 
 are tragedies, we dare not question. 
 
 We are on the Boulevards. What a variety of costumes 
 and of character ; what a medley of the nations ! On 
 these benches and under these trees, we see the old men 
 and women looking the last of life, and the young making 
 love for the generations to come. A beautiful thing in 
 Paris is the devotion of the children to their parents. The 
 son with his mother on one side, and his sweetheart on the 
 other, is a familiar sight. The blue blouse of the work- 
 man is seen near the broadcloth of the parvenu. Before 
 the private houses gather the old and the young to see the 
 passing throng — the mother knitting, the father smoking, 
 the children playing, while on the broad pavements of the 
 hotels sit hundreds before the little tables, drinking cheap 
 wines and chatting cheap gossip. Meanwhile, the broad 
 avenues, or boulevards, are crowded with carriages occu- 
 pied by the other actors in this Vanity Fair. Many of 
 these were absent during the interval described above, but 
 the great majority were glad enough to eat rats, cats, cows, 
 horses, and rhinoceros during that fearful siege. "What 
 a tender dish you gave us to-day," said a satisfied gourmand 
 to the chef of his restaurant. "Yes, indeed," was the 
 answer, " but it was hard enough for me to kill my favorite 
 Newfoundland to please my guests." 
 
 I wish I had Mr. Stokley and Mahlon H. Dickinson here 
 now, to walk or drive with me through these Paris streets. 
 I am not Mayor of Philadelphia or Superintendent of 
 Highways, but if I were either, I should learn a good deal 
 from these magnificent foreign cities. I board in a street 
 like Locust, between Sixth and Seventh, Philadelphia, only . 
 more shops, more travel, and therefore more excuse for 
 dirt. I declare to you it is as clean always as the floor of 
 
PARIS AND THE CENTENNIAL. 
 
 29 
 
 a banking-house. This morning I got up early to write 
 my letters — at seven o'clock, and I saw the cart to carry 
 offal tome on. The servants of the house were out to 
 deposit their tributes, the fountains were running, and the 
 Rue Caumartin was made ready for the day. Observe, this 
 is so all over Europe: in England, with her Queen; in 
 France, with her military President ; in Germany, with 
 her Emperor, and in Switzerland, with her annually elected 
 republican Executive. Why ? Because the law is made to 
 be obeyed, not to be broken. Because a public trust is 
 more sacred than, or as sacred as, a private trust ! These 
 people get crazy every decade or so, but their municipal 
 administration is the best in the world. 
 
 Paris is getting to be full of the Centennial. I am doing 
 all I can to see that she comes over. The newspaper 
 people are almost spontaneous on the subject. The truth 
 is, there is no excuse for anybody to go against the Cen- 
 tennial. It is nobody's specialty. It takes from nobody. 
 It proposes to help all round. There is therefore hardly 
 anything left for envy. The period is auspicious abroad 
 and at home. Our own quarrel adjusted, we have closed 
 all our differences with other governments. And it looks 
 as if Providence or Destiny had so shaped things that the 
 American Centennial should be the exact opportunity for 
 all the nations to square accounts, and to start forward in 
 a fair race for the command of the commerce of the world. 
 
 Yesterday's Galignani, the great English paper in Paris, 
 which goes all over the Continent, gave up two of its prom- 
 inent columns to an elaborate editorial on the American 
 World's Fair in 1876. To-morrow the American Register, 
 a journal which has attained an immense circulation, and 
 has just been purchased by our old townsman, the million- 
 aire, Dr. Thomas W. Evans, long resident in Paris, will 
 speak even more at length on the same subject. 
 
 August, 1874. 
 
 3* 
 
3° 
 
 IRA NCR REORGANIZES HER ARMIES. 
 
 V. 
 
 France Reorganizes her Armies. — The Civil Service. — French and English. 
 — The Centennial Feeling Abroad. — Art News and Gossip. — The New 
 French Opera-House. — What it Costs to Live in Paris. 
 
 France is putting herself in military order after the 
 Prussian model. The catastrophe of 1870 was a great 
 educator. There is a fine lad of seventeen in my "pen- 
 sion," who has been helping me with my correspondence. 
 He talks English, and yesterday he said, "I must now go 
 to my professor." "Your professor, Armand ! how is 
 that?" "Why, you see, when I am nineteen I go into 
 the French army, under the law passed after the war, by 
 which all our young men must serve five years, unless they 
 show themselves qualified in certain branches of education, 
 as history, geography, arithmetic. If they are up in these, 
 they need only serve one year. I have my teacher one 
 hour every day, and I feel sure of a good number and 
 an early and honorable discharge for superiority in his- 
 tory, geography, algebra, and the natural sciences. If I 
 prove proficient in these branches I serve only one year ; 
 so I am working to get the other four years to myself." 
 It is unnecessary to discuss the advantages of such a sys- 
 tem in a military power. The government secures good 
 soldiers and intelligent citizens at the same time. 
 
 "What keeps this great city in such perfect order through 
 all these revolutions? Here it is to-day almost as beauti- 
 ful as it was in 1867, though the fire of the siege has bat- 
 tered its houses, and the red ocean of the Commune has 
 poured through its streets." This is the question I put to 
 an intelligent gentleman who has lived here forty years. 
 
THE CIVIL SERVICE. 
 
 31 
 
 His answer deserves to be remembered by the people of 
 our American cities : " There is a very large class of offi- 
 cials in the government who take no part in politics, and 
 from generation to generation discharge the same duties. 
 These are all experts. They are never removed. Their 
 places are a sort of property, and when they retire it is 
 with a pension, in every case made up by per-centage con- 
 tributions from themselves. These are the men who give 
 us our magnificent streets, sewers, lights, and police ; our 
 lovely gardens and cheap fares ; who keep our great gal- 
 leries in order, and organize fetes for the poor and operas 
 for the rich. Public money is rarely if ever stolen in 
 France ; when it is appropriated, or when a wealthy citizen 
 gives a large sum for public purposes, it is as carefully pre- 
 served and disbursed as if it was the private property of 
 the chief of the bureau to whom it is entrusted." He had 
 read of the wholesale removal of men in office after every 
 change of administration in the United States, and he re- 
 garded it as the curse of our system. In a recent article 
 in Lippincotf s Magazine, by Reginald Wynford, on the 
 "British Civil Service," you will find these words: "For 
 a clerk in any department in England to lose his appoint- 
 ment in consequence of a change of administration is a 
 thing absolutely unknown." 
 
 I walked to my quarters from a meeting of Americans 
 and Parisians, late the other night, alone. It was half-past 
 twelve, and the gay crowds were rapidly dispersing. I 
 sauntered through the Champs Elysees ; the lights of the 
 little theatres were fading out ; the music was over and the 
 booths were silent ; Punch and Judy had gone to bed ; the 
 flying horses were at rest after a hard day's work, and the 
 tired feet of the tinselled dancers were in repose. But 
 every few yards there was a policeman or gendarme in clean 
 uniform, with his medal on his breast, watchful and polite. 
 Long rows of the little iron chairs used by the people, 
 
32 
 
 FRENCH AND ENGLISH. 
 
 from which to look at the sights, and hired out for a sous, 
 were exposed under the trees, and, like the flowers in the 
 un fenced squares, were safe from the prowlers. As I 
 loitered on, a woman with a sweet face, in exquisite dress, 
 stopped before me and spoke in her best French. I 
 answered her in my best American, and, after a good deal 
 of conversation, we parted friends in the innocent con- 
 sciousness that neither understood what the other had said. 
 It is the only time, since I have been here, that I have 
 profited by my ignorance of the French language. 
 
 Now for the other side of the picture. Yesterday a 
 friend and myself came to grief by an experiment with a 
 hackman, whom we employed to drive us for an hour. 
 He drove at his slowest pace. " The fellow intends to 
 cheat us," said my friend ; "he will force us into a second 
 hour." "Let us baffle him," was my reply. "We will 
 stop exactly at the expiration of the bargain, and walk the 
 remainder of the way;" and so we did; but the scamp 
 demanded an extra franc with such a torrent of French, to 
 which we could not reply, that we paid it to avoid a scene, 
 and sorrowfully pursued our way. We consoled ourselves, 
 however, with the thought that many of the Frenchmen 
 we had met could not talk English. This is notably so of 
 M. de Girardin, M. Thiers, and others of equal eminence. 
 The English and Americans are the great travellers of the 
 nations, and their language is an ever-increasing influence. 
 "English spoken" is the symbol of all the successful 
 traders. You may traverse the earth with that magician. 
 You may do without French, or German, or Italian, but 
 when you talk what Shakspeare and Milton wrote, you 
 hold the key to many mysteries. It is true that every new 
 language opens up a new world, but it is also true that the 
 most useful and governing is the English. 
 
 Before this letter reaches you you will have noticed the 
 emphatic manner in which Galigiiani and the American 
 
ART NEWS AND GOSSIP. 
 
 33 
 
 Register, in Paris, have endorsed the Centennial World's 
 Fair. During the present week most of the French pap 
 will follow. But no interest is being more thoroughly 
 aroused than the artists'. I hear from them frequently. 
 On Saturday I had the opportunity of being present at the 
 studio of two American ladies, who have won solid fame 
 by their paintings — Mrs. Robinson Morrell, of Massachu- 
 setts (well known in Washington), and Miss E. F. Gardner, 
 of New Hampshire. The first picture was Mrs. Morrell's 
 " Washington Waiting for the Provision Train," a Revolu- 
 tionary study, the chief objects of which are Washington, 
 Colonel Alexander Hamilton, General Greene, and two 
 others, on superb horses. The story of the piece is admir- 
 ably told by the artist. The troops were in a starving con- 
 dition, and Washington felt, unless he received supplies, 
 there was danger of mutiny and desertion. At the last 
 hour the provision trains are announced, and Washington 
 and his staff ride out to meet them. Mrs. Morrell displays 
 immense talent in the group, especially in the animal life; 
 so well, indeed, that when Goupil, the celebrated dealer, 
 heard of her picture he called to see it, and immediately 
 offered her ten thousand francs (two thousand dollars) for 
 permission to make an engraving of it as a companion for 
 the fine steel-plate of Leutze's " Washington Crossing the 
 Delaware," the splendid original of which is now in the 
 gallery of Marshall O. Roberts, New York. Mrs. Morrell 
 intends offering her Washington for exhibition at the Cen- 
 tennial, and no doubt Mr. Roberts will do the same with 
 his, so that these two historical chefs-ef ceuvre may be seen 
 side by side. There is another noble work, " The First 
 Battle of the Puritans," taken from Longfellow's poem, 
 with Miles Stand ish and a glowing picture of savage life, 
 and early American scenery, with sun and shade and foliage 
 — another gem I hope to see in the Art Gallery at Fair- 
 mount Park in 1S76. 
 
 B* 
 
34 
 
 ART NEWS AND GOSSIP. 
 
 The younger lady, Miss Gardner, has had her triumph 
 in another school. She was a pupil of Merle, who painted 
 the glorious " Marguerite, in Faust," which I have several 
 times seen in Colonel Scott's Philadelphia residence, and, 
 once seen, never forgotten. If to make money by genius 
 is a test of success, both these ladies have attained it. Miss 
 Gardner received two thousand dollars from Mr. Jonas G. 
 Clark, of New York, for her "Cinderella," the scene 
 being the fitting of the glass slipper, with the dazzled 
 prince and angry sisters at her side. It is a lovely realiza- 
 tion, and I do not wonder that it won a prominent place 
 in the French Academy, and was surrounded by approving 
 spectators. Her " Corinne," after Madame de Stael's 
 story, and her portraits of the two children of Mr. Steb- 
 bins, an American gentleman living in Paris, were spoken 
 of in the Pall Mall Gazette, a high English critical author- 
 ity, as follows: "The 'Corinne' wears a laurel wreath, 
 and the sunlight strikes her shoulder and hand, the rest of 
 the figure being in shadow. It is difficult to imagine a 
 figure more finely drawn, or a type of face more interest- 
 ing : grave yet gentle, maidenly and full of sweet pen- 
 siveness. The soft harmony of colors and the delicate 
 firmness of the drawing are the salient features of the 
 picture and its neighbor, a portrait of two children in the 
 dress of Louis Fifteenth's time. Taken altogether, they 
 struck me as among the most attractive performances of 
 the exhibition." The French connoisseurs talk of the 
 " Corinne" as a work of surpassing merit. Among other 
 American artists in Paris who take a deep interest in our 
 World's Fair, I must not forget Mr. Daniel R. Knight 
 (who has just sold one of his last pictures for a large sum 
 to a Spanish gentleman living here); George P. Healy, 
 whose portraits of the Pope, M. Thiers, and Minister 
 Washburne attracted much attention ; Mr. Edward H. 
 May of New York, Miss Clementina Tompkins of Wash- 
 
THE NEW FRENCH OPERA-HOUSE. 
 
 35 
 
 ington, Mr. Bridgman of New York, Mr. Baird of Chicago, 
 and Miss Mary Stephenson Cassatt of Philadelphia, whose 
 Spanish head in the exhibition was much commended. 
 These, with their coadjutors all over the Continent, and 
 with Bradford and Miss Lea, in London, and their asso- 
 ciates, are doing a world of good among the foreign artists 
 in the matter of arousing a proper interest in the Centen- 
 nial. 
 
 The new opera-house in Paris is undoubtedly the grandest 
 in Europe. Begun under the auspices of Napoleon III., it 
 is announced to be completed and opened on the ist of 
 January, 1875. After a long effort we at last got admis- 
 sion for three, and on Monday we saw its matchless inte- 
 rior. It is a world in itself. The great pile occupies an 
 entire square, as large as that occupied by our new Public 
 Buildings. Its main front, indeed, all its facades, consti- 
 tute a variety of architecture and statuary beyond de- 
 scription. Inside, all these wonders increase. The space 
 allotted to the stage, the dressing-rooms, rooms or studios 
 for the artists, reception-rooms, machine-shops, with the 
 endless devices for scenery, seem to be more than half the 
 entire area ; and as you gaze into this mysterious combina- 
 tion, the auditorium looks comparatively small, even with 
 its tier after tier of boxes and its sweeping corridors. 
 Some idea of this immense edifice may be gathered from 
 the size of the saloon, or foyer, a rectangular hall over one 
 hundred and sixty feet long and forty feet high. It is 
 lighted in the day by five windows looking into the boule- 
 vard, and in the night by a bewildering array of chande- 
 liers. In this saloon the great artist Vaudrey achieved his 
 last triumphs, which are now setting Paris wild. The 
 panels they were to fill, the spaces for the mirrors, the 
 lofty and widespreading ceilings, the walls, the very floors, 
 conveyed an idea of vastness, heightened by the gorgeous 
 decorations in bronzes and gold, in mosaic and fresco, in 
 
36 
 
 WHAT IT COSTS TO LIVE IN PARIS. 
 
 marble and the other products of French and foreign quar- 
 ries. I forbear an estimate of what this palace of music 
 will accommodate, or what it costs, but its acoustic ca- 
 pacity seems to have passed judgment. Nilsson has tried 
 it, and given it her approval. All the seats are taken for 
 the first representation, and for six months ahead. Work 
 on it was arrested, of course, during the siege and the 
 Commune, and it was several times in danger, but the 
 present Government has given it an immense appropria- 
 tion to finish it by January. The new opera-house is in 
 the very heart of Paris, near all the leading boulevards, 
 and is unquestionably the finest of the fresh wonders of 
 the French capital. 
 
 I spent twelve days in this lovely city, and my bill for 
 rooms, meals, and generally first-class accommodations, 
 was less than fifteen dollars a week. It would have been 
 reduced at least thirty francs if I had not required ac- 
 commodations for my correspondence and visitors, — an 
 item for Americans who do not wish to be fleeced at the 
 hotels. 
 
 August, 1874. 
 
JJAMPTON COURT PALACE. 
 
 37 
 
 VI. 
 
 Hampton Court Palace.— Holland House. — Marden Park. — Hotel Life. — 
 Mrs. Dion Boucicault. 
 
 Suburban life or villa life in England opens a view of 
 history and society at once. You sometimes visit a house 
 four hundred years old, with ancient paintings, furniture, 
 trees, and architecture ; all these curiously mingled with 
 the products of modern times. A picture by Vandyck or 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds, even a Titian or a Murillo, is hung 
 in contrast with a Turner or a Landseer. A few evenings 
 ago I dined at an old mansion long occupied by Lord 
 North, the stubborn Minister of George III., and often 
 the scene of his Cabinet councils. In the superb gallery, 
 prominent among the old masters, were three of Bier- 
 stadt's studies of the Rocky Mountains, and an excellent 
 portrait of President Grant, while in my bed-room was a 
 choice Washington by Gilbert Stuart. From the beautiful 
 grounds surrounding this ancient mansion we had a near 
 view of Hampton Court and Bushey Park. The former of 
 these, a fine structure of red brick, with stone ornaments, 
 was originally built by Cardinal Wolsey, who presented 
 it to his sovereign Henry VIII. The great saloons are 
 filled with the portraits of the beauties of Charles II. 's time 
 and paintings of many of the old masters, including the 
 favorite picture of Charles I. on horseback, by Vandyck. 
 In this splendid solitude, crowded with memories of the 
 past, it was difficult to believe that you were so near the 
 terrible roar of London. Very few people were in the 
 lovely walks, and there was an air of quiet pervading the 
 whole, hardly disturbed by the herds of deer grazing peace- 
 
 4 
 
38 HOLLAND HOUSE. 
 
 fully in these gorgeous spaces and under these ancient 
 trees. 
 
 On another occasion I spent an evening with an Ameri- 
 can gentleman who owns a portion of the vast demesne 
 once attached to Holland House, Kensington. He has 
 built for himself what is known as Oak Lodge, and his gar- 
 dens are full of trophies and relics. The larger portion of 
 the estate is still held by the descendants of the founder, 
 but giant London, with the blood and fire of modern 
 Progress in its veins, will soon absorb it. Holland House 
 is among the last of the great mansions venerable for its 
 appearance, and for its connection with old times, left in 
 the metropolis ; and as I followed my friend through the 
 walks of his beautiful grove and garden, I felt that our feet 
 were deep in the dust of the ages. Here was the scene of 
 the celebrated duel between Lord Camelford and Mr. Best, 
 ending in the death of the former, who had wantonly pro- 
 voked it. In the great house itself is the chamber where 
 Addison died; the bed-room of Charles James Fox; that 
 of the poet Rogers; that of Sheridan, where a servant at- 
 tended him all night, it is said, to supply the thirsty orator 
 with champagne when he awoke. In the library we are told 
 how Addison paced up and down, dictating for The Specta- 
 tor, with a bottle of wine upon a table at each end. You go 
 back several centuries to the founders of this almost royal 
 house, where Kings and Cabinets dined and counselled, 
 through long lines of favorites of both sexes, and an almost 
 endless procession of noble and celebrated characters, and 
 you read individual and national vicissitudes in the long 
 and varied story. 
 
 Another delightful day at Marden Park, in Surrey, was 
 spent with J. H. Puleston, M. P. for Devonport, and his 
 family and friends. Mr. Puleston is well known in Penn- 
 sylvania for his activity during the war as a journalist and 
 a military agent for Governor Curtin at Washington, D. C. 
 
HOTEL LIFE. 
 
 39 
 
 I was glad to note his high position in England. In London, 
 by his integrity in business, and his excellent manners, he 
 soon acquired and held the confidence of the community. 
 His successful efforts to preserve the credit of the house 
 of which he is a partner, and the boldness and skill with 
 which he made good all his obligations after the great 
 panic of September, 1873, made him very strong with the 
 cautious Englishmen. Puleston is a Conservative in Eng- 
 land. He has lost none of his love of America, and nothing 
 gives him more pleasure than to meet his old friends, and 
 stand forth for his old home. 
 
 I have often said that the English in the hotels do not 
 live so well as we do, and I have yet to meet an English 
 restaurant equal to Augustin's in Philadelphia, or Delmon- 
 ico's in New York ; and no establishment like those of the 
 Continental and the Colonnade in the first, or the Brevoort 
 House or Fifth Avenue in the second. But in their rural 
 or suburban, or London homes, they rival our best. With 
 the best cooks, the best wines, attendants trained by long 
 service, their dinners are, to say the least, unapproachable. 
 They generally breakfast about nine, lunch at one, and 
 dine at seven or eight, the last often extending long into the 
 night, winding up with billiards and cigars. Champagne 
 is not taken so freely as with us ; it comes on after the 
 lighter wines, and is never much iced, except for their 
 American guests. An English gentleman seldom drinks 
 before dinner, but he does justice to his appetite when he 
 gets his legs " under the mahogany." 
 
 Glimpses of suburban and villa life in England were 
 happily contrasted by an evening among the literary men 
 and artistes at the residence of Mrs. Dion Boucicault, 
 Regent Street, London. Two continents remember Agnes 
 Robertson, "the fairy star" of the stage, her graceful 
 beauty, gentle humor, and musical tones. When I was 
 first invited to meet her, after so many years, I was pre- 
 
4 o MRS. DION B O UCICA UL T. 
 
 pared for some changes of time ; but I found the beautiful 
 girl ripened into the lovely woman. Mother of five chil- 
 dren, Mrs. Dion Boucicault is as graceful as when she made 
 great capitals ring with praises of her gifts of mind and 
 person. There was not a trace of the actress. Nothing 
 could be more natural. A lady in everything ; considerate, 
 well-poised, and perfectly at home, she was like one who 
 had been reared in private life and had never known the 
 dangerous applause of the theatre. That rare charm which 
 makes a lovely woman more lovely without ornament is 
 hers. The tact that makes everybody happy and at ease 
 is an inborn quality, invaluable in the artiste, because 
 never taught in the discipline of the drama. All her chil- 
 dren were present — Eve, her eldest daughter, and Dion, 
 her eldest son, at the dinner, and the next daughter and 
 the next son and the baby at the reception afterwards. 
 The English song of their mother and the French chanson 
 of the second boy delighted everybody ; and when the last 
 of the five, the little Boucicault, kissed us all "good- 
 night," it was a picture for Meissonier alone to paint. 
 
 Of those present, and there were a good many, I will 
 mention only Charles Reade, the novelist. I expected to 
 find an aggressive, angular, ostentatious social despot; but 
 imagine a figure like our William Sellers, of Philadelphia; 
 with gray, almost white, hair and beard, soft voice, excel- 
 lent address, and an evident eagerness to please and be 
 pleased. Slightly deaf, and therefore not demonstrative, 
 it was still not necessary to force him to talk. He sought 
 others, and was, I noticed, that excellent thing in man 
 and woman, a good listener. Mr. Reade is Fellow of a 
 College at Oxford, also D.C.L., a prodigious worker, and, 
 I should think, a very amiable person in private life. He 
 never once talked of himself, was dressed in plain black, 
 and seemed more anxious for fame as a dramatist than as 
 a writer of fiction. He is engaged on a new novel, but I 
 
SCIENTIFIC FARMING. 
 
 41 
 
 did not ask its title nor when it was to appear. He spoke 
 highly of his American readers, and when I sent him a 
 copy of my Anecdotes he returned a note written in plain, 
 open hand, which I probably shall forward to my friend 
 Ferdinand J. Dreer, of Philadelphia, to embalm among 
 his library of autographs. If I can get for him a photo- 
 graph of the author of "Peg Woffington," "White Lies," 
 " Put Yourself in His Place," and "Hard Cash," I shall 
 expect a world of thanks from that enthusiastic collector 
 of the calligraphy and countenances of famous men. 
 
 September, 1874. 
 
 VII. 
 
 Scientific Farming. — Mr. Lawes of Herts. — Succession and Variations of 
 Crops. — St. Albans Abbey. 
 
 The farm of John Bennett Lawes, Esq., at Rothansted, 
 Hertfordshire, about twenty-three miles from London, 
 which I had the pleasure of visiting a few weeks ago, is 
 in a singularly romantic and antiquated region. The 
 mansion is more than eight hundred years old, and the 
 combination of early architecture with modern additions, 
 in keeping with the original plan, is a source of constant 
 interest and surprise to the archaeological student. You 
 approach it from the railroad station through an exquisite 
 English village, and over a broad road roofed with noble 
 trees. The venerable mansion stands in a beautiful lawn, 
 and was a singularly antique and striking figure, surrounded 
 with the unrivalled flowers of the season, and in the centre 
 of a lovely grove. Mr. Lawes is an enthusiastic, scientific 
 agriculturist, and he was himself an object of no less in- 
 terest than the broad fields upon which he conducted his 
 
 4* 
 
42 SCIENTIFIC FARMING. 
 
 thorough experiments. I should think the entire estate 
 included at least two thousand acres, five hundred of 
 which are given up to the special purpose of testing the 
 theories to which he has devoted nearly all his life, having 
 already provided in his will that after his death one 
 hundred thousand pounds shall be expended to carry on 
 the project in which he has long and successfully per- 
 severed. I walked with him through the best part of his 
 magnificent property. It was a breezy day in August, not 
 unlike an American September, and I noticed that he dis- 
 carded his hat, and strolled along with uncovered head, 
 explaining his work, over his splendid acres. He has 
 become an authority among the scientific farmers of the 
 world, having given thirty years to this peculiar specialty. 
 In what he calls the "park" the land has been laid down 
 with grass for some centuries ; no fresh seed has been 
 artificially sown within the last forty years, nor is record 
 of there being any sown since the grass was first laid down. 
 His experiments on this farm began in 1856, at which 
 time the . character of the herbage appeared uniform all 
 over the plots. Yet he has produced large and heavy 
 crops of hay by the application of varied manures, in- 
 cluding ammoniate salts, superphosphate of lime, nitrate 
 of potassa, etc. 
 
 On what he calls the "four hundred field" similar ex- 
 periments in the growth of barley have been made year 
 after year on the same land, without manure and with 
 different kinds of manure. The first crops on this tract 
 were Swede turnips, in 1847 > tne second, barley, in 1848; 
 the third, in 1849, clover; the fourth, in 1850, wheat; 
 and, in 1851, barley, grown mainly with ammoniate salts. 
 His own experiments in barley began in 1852, with equally 
 favorable results, under the same application of farm-yard 
 manure, ammoniate salts, nitrate of soda, sulphate of 
 potash, etc. You have the average produced per acre on 
 
SCIENTIFIC FARMING. 
 
 43 
 
 all his tracts for twenty years from 1S52 to 1873 arranged 
 in tables easy to understand by the practical farmer. On 
 what he calls " Broadback" field, wheat is the object of 
 his experiments, with and without manure, for the same 
 period, and with the same accurate.and useful results. He 
 also showed us his crops of peas, beans, tares, and red 
 clover, and on his "barn" field the product of the same 
 applications, 'the growth of sugar beet. 
 
 On the Adgdell field, one-third of which had been 
 constantly unmamired for twenty years, and the others 
 partially manured, all have rewarded his experiments with 
 a wonderful produce. His experiments with ammonia, 
 and in the use of nitrogenous manures, have been of in- 
 calculable use in this country where land 'is scarce. He 
 has found that generally less than half the nitrogen sup- 
 plied in such manures as guano and ammoniacal salts is 
 recovered in the increase of the crops for which they are 
 used, that a considerable amount remains in the soil in 
 a comparatively inactive state, and that a considerable 
 quantity may be carried away by drainage on the land. 
 It seemed desirable, therefore, to commence a series of 
 experiments to determine whether any saving could be 
 effected by burying comparatively small quantities near to 
 the seed, instead of large amounts in the usual way of 
 sowing and harrowing in. This quiet gentleman, absorbed 
 in his efforts to simplify the cultivation of the land, and to 
 utilize every foot and acre, is an example of how much 
 one man can effect in the course of a lifetime. His labora- 
 tory is a wonder in itself. Here at a stated season of every 
 year he employs a thorough agricultural chemist, whose 
 business it is to discover the properties of various plants, 
 seeds, roots, and grass, and he is aided by a number of 
 boys in the collection and distribution of the plants and 
 seeds. This laboratory looks like a great school of science. 
 Adjoining it is what is known as the club-house, for his 
 
44 ST. ALBANS ABBEY. 
 
 farm hands, who, living in comfortable buildings near by, 
 meet for conversation and reading in this club-house every 
 evening, and especially every Saturday and Sunday, at 
 leisure hours cultivating the little patches of ground set 
 apart for each by Mr. Lawes, which furnish not only 
 pleasant employment, but vegetables for their families. . 
 
 It must not be supposed that these facts were freely fur- 
 nished. I had rather to extract them by repeated sugges- 
 tions; and though his answers were always kind and full, 
 yet, nevertheless, I did see that he was not anxious to make 
 an advertisement of his benevolence; but nothing could 
 exceed his modesty in describing the wonderful results of 
 his long and careful studies among the acres which have 
 been the scene of his continuous experiments. After giving 
 us several hours of his most pleasant and rare experience 
 we returned to the mansion, where the scientific fanner, 
 discarding his plain working dress, soon appeared as the 
 accomplished host of a refined family circle. 
 
 In this same historic vicinity is the magnificent Abbey 
 of St. Alban, now undergoing a thorough reparation under 
 the influence of the nobility and gentry of Great Britain. 
 Mr. John Chappie, a resident of Romeland in the neigh- 
 borhood, and a guest of Mr. Lawes on the day above re- 
 ferred to, is the most active of those engaged in this 
 interesting work. St. Albans is one of the favorite monu- 
 ments of the great English Church. To give you an idea 
 of the age of some of these old edifices you must try to 
 realize that he who paces slowly within the walls of St. 
 Albans, looking out upon the eminence on which it stands, 
 can see close at hand where stood the rude capitol of the 
 native prince Caswallon, who, half a century before the 
 birth of Christ, resisted the invasion of the first Caesar — 
 B.C. 54. a.d. 61, a destructive persecution overtook the 
 consecrated ground, and two and a half centuries afterwards 
 the Emperor then upon the Roman throne, Diocletian, 
 
ST. ALBANS ABBEY. 
 
 45 
 
 issued an edict to root it up. This was the last persecu- 
 tion of the Christians — the most furious and sanguinary. 
 Under the rule of the Emperor Constantine was built the 
 first church in memory of St. Alban, who is called Eng- 
 land's first martyr. 
 
 " For his friend he died, 
 And for his faith ; 
 Nor shall his name forsake this hill, 
 Whose flowery platform seems to rise 
 By nature decked for holiest sacrifice." 
 
 Century after century, down to the present period, 
 through wars and revolutions, changes of religious posses- 
 sion, and even of religious creeds, through successions of 
 martyrs and kings, St. Albans has been an object of rever- 
 ence and pride. Under the active influence of Mr. Chappie 
 the work of restoration is going on, with the aid of heavy 
 contributions from all parts of the Kingdom. As much as 
 fifty thousand pounds sterling will be required to put it in 
 order ; and as this burden is too great for one county to 
 bear, an appeal has been made to the nation at large. In a 
 short time St. Albans will be made a Bishopric, the endow- 
 ment to be supplied by private liberality. I have been 
 most careful in getting at these points, because St. Albans 
 is a sacred spot among all the members of the English or 
 Episcopal denominations, including the increasing thou- 
 sands in America who are in constant intercourse with the 
 Established Church in Great Britain. I am quite sure Mr. 
 John Chappie, Romeland, St. Albans, England, would be 
 glad to hear from his American friends. 
 
 September, 1874. 
 
46 A PROFESSIONAL NATURALIST. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 A Professional Naturalist. — Zoological Gardens in London and Phila- 
 delphia. 
 
 Charles Tamrack, naturalist, 180 St. George Street, 
 East London, is a well-known character among those who 
 deal in wild animals, birds, reptiles, and the insects of land 
 and water. In fact, his business is to supply living and 
 dead specimens to menageries, zoological gardens, and 
 public and private museums. For more than forty years 
 he has been engaged in this special commerce, and is con- 
 stantly on the look-out through his agents and sons in 
 selecting the choicest varieties from all parts of the world. 
 A friend and myself mounted an omnibus at the top of 
 Regent Street on Tuesday last, and for five miles, at a cost 
 of fivepence each, pursued our way to his somewhat unique 
 collection. It is within a short walk of the Tower of Lon- 
 don, directly in the vicinity of the immense London 
 Docks, and near the parish of St. Katherine's, where Wil- 
 liam Penn was born. It was not an agreeable sensation 
 to pass between the somewhat rickety cages, separated from 
 one another by a narrow passage of not more than three 
 feet, in which the wild citizens of the wildernesses of India, 
 Africa, and Japan are temporarily exhibited and offered 
 for sale. It was not a pleasant sensation to feel that any 
 one of them might have given us a rather rude welcome to 
 the mysteries of the place, especially as the keeper himself, 
 bare-armed and thong in hand, seemed to have been lacer- 
 ated from hand to shoulder in his frequent conflicts with 
 his untamed prisoners. 
 
 The first lot, a recent arrival, consisted of five young 
 
ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS OF LONDON. 
 
 47 
 
 elephants, evidently, from their looks, much indisposed 
 after their long voyage from India. Three of them had 
 already been sold, and the price of the remaining two was 
 stated to be four hundred pounds each. The leopards com- 
 manded seventy pounds, the lions five hundred pounds a 
 pair. The dromedary, which had broken its ankle on the 
 passage, was evidently laid up in hospital, and did not seem 
 to be in the market at all. The variety was not as exten- 
 sive as expected, but a new cargo was looked for within a 
 few days. There were in this collection, however, some 
 curious specimens: two of the " yak" covered with long 
 hair resembling a horse's mane and tail ; and a zebu from 
 Hindostan, a combination of reindeer and bison. There 
 were hyenas, wolves, jackals, antelopes, a fair colony of 
 monkeys, and two porcupines. What might be called 
 the "aviary" was of a better description, especially the 
 magnificent Amherst pheasant, rare and valuable. Here, 
 also, were several rooms crowded with savage implements 
 of warfare, old vases, and every description of Oriental 
 oddity. It made up a sort of wild curiosity shop, well 
 worth a visit. 
 
 The Zoological Gardens of London, on the north- 
 west side of Regent's Park, and now covering seventeen 
 acres, had a very small beginning in 1826. Until the 
 ground was drained and tastefully planted there was great 
 mortality among the animals. The gardens were first 
 opened in 1S28. During seven months there were upwards 
 of thirty thousand visitors, at a charge of one shilling 
 each. There were then four hundred and thirty animals, 
 and the expenses were fifty thousand dollars. Since then 
 these gardens have become one of the favorite resorts 
 of London fashion. The new monkey-house has cost 
 over twenty-five thousand dollars. In 1863 the income 
 amounted to over one hundred thousand dollars. In the 
 year 1864 the visitors numbered five hundred and seven 
 
48 DULWICH COLLEGE. 
 
 thousand one hundred and sixty-nine. The natural in- 
 come of the society is now over one hundred thousand dol- 
 lars, and the ordinary expenses seventeen thousand dollars. 
 Visitors on Mondays and holidays only pay sixpence per 
 head and supply the larger portion of the income, their 
 numbers being more than double those of the visitors on 
 the shilling days. The number of annual subscribers in 
 1866 was two thousand four hundred and fifty-nine; the 
 visitors, five hundred and twenty-seven thousand three hun- 
 dred and forty-nine ; animals, two hundred and thirteen ; 
 quadrupeds, five hundred and thirty-five; birds, one thou- 
 sand three hundred and five. The society's museum in 
 this garden is arranged to convey an idea of the generic 
 forms of the vertebrate division of the animal kingdom. 
 It was projected on an extensive scale, but gradually be- 
 came eclipsed by the rapid accumulation with which 
 Doctor Gray enriched the galleries of the British Museum. 
 From this general statement it will be seen that the com- 
 mencement of the Philadelphia Zoological Garden is at 
 least as auspicious as that in London, and with the incen- 
 tive of our World's Fair, and the noble liberality of our 
 citizens, cannot fail to become as popular as its great 
 London prototype. 
 
 September, 1874. 
 
 IX. 
 
 Dulwich College. — Endowments by and for Actors. 
 
 Riding out a few evenings ago with an American who 
 has had a fortunate career in London, but who has not 
 lived here long enough to forget his native country, my 
 attention was directed to an imposing pile of buildings in 
 the pleasant suburb of Dulwich, near the Crystal Palace, 
 and in the direct neighborhood of my friend, whose pleas- 
 
DULWICH COLLEGE. 4 o 
 
 ant home is within sight of the magnificent edifice which 
 is perhaps the most popular of all the British resorts. 
 "That," he said, "is Dulwich College, built and en- 
 dowed in 1619 by Edward Alleyn, a celebrated actor in 
 his time, who erected the Fortune Theatre, and with 
 Henslow was co-proprietor of the Paris Bear Garden, at 
 Bankside. He named the foundation ' The College of 
 God's Gift,' to be governed by a master and warden, to 
 contain six poor brothers, six sisters, twelve scholars, and 
 thirty out-fellows, lodged principally in almshouses. This 
 was more than two hundred and fifty years ago, during 
 which time the annual income of the college has increased 
 to about eight thousand pounds, or forty thousand dollars, 
 or nearly tenfold the value of the original gift. In 185 1 
 the Archbishop of Canterbury extended the education of 
 the school to chemistry, surveying, engineering, and the 
 allied sciences. In 1858 Parliament decided that this 
 trust's income should be expended in proportion to its 
 wealth. There are now two schools — an upper, which 
 provides a more advanced education for boys of the 
 better class, and a lower, for the preparation of boys for 
 commercial life. In the upper school the fees are eight 
 pounds per annum, and in the lower one pound. New 
 buildings have been completed on a site of thirty acres, 
 between the present college and the Crystal Palace. The 
 founder of Dulwich College was also a friend of Ben Jonson 
 and Shakspeare, and, in addition to that noble institution, 
 built and endowed three almshouses in London. He him- 
 self laid the first brick of one of them — the Bath Street 
 Almshouse — in 1620, and they were all rebuilt in 1707." 
 
 There are in London several establishments for the 
 care of the orphans and aged members of the theatrical 
 profession. The Dramatic College for poor players, situ- 
 ated at Mayberry, in Surrey, consists of a central hall, and 
 residences in the London style. 
 c 5 
 
5 o MUNICIPAL LONDON. 
 
 The gift of the generous actor, whose best monument is 
 •Dulwich College, reminded me of another great legacy 
 soon to assume shape and organization on the banks of the 
 river Delaware, near the city of Philadelphia. I allude, 
 of course, to the provision made by Edwin Forrest in his 
 late will for the benefit of the aged and indigent members 
 of the profession of which he was the distinguished orna- 
 ment. Every precaution should be taken, not only in the 
 face of the certainty of the increased value in the course 
 of time of the beautiful estate set apart by Mr. Forrest for 
 the purpose, but in view of the increase of tenants of the 
 splendid buildings to be constructed and controlled ac- 
 cording to his exact and careful direction. Not fifty years 
 will elapse before all his fine domain north of Philadelphia 
 will be covered with costly and comfortable houses. It is 
 well, therefore, to take advantage of the lessons of older 
 and more experienced communities. 
 
 September, 1874. 
 
 X. 
 
 Municipal London. — Lord Mayor's Feast. — Official Costume and Insignia. 
 
 The Lord Mayor of London is chosen annually. His 
 salary and allowances amount to about ten thousand pounds 
 per annum. He resides in the Mansion House, near the 
 Royal Exchange. This is. sumptuously furnished, and 
 provided with plate, etc., of great value. He is provided 
 with a gorgeous state coach, but not with horses. He is 
 expected to give a certain number of state banquets during 
 the year, in addition to bearing half the expense of the in- 
 auguration dinner, at Guildhall, on the 9th of November. 
 The dinners are provided by contract, but the wines are 
 
LORD MAYOR'S FEAST. 
 
 51 
 
 supplied from the Mansion House cellars. The Mayoralty- 
 expenses almost always exceed the city allowance. The 
 state liveries usually cost five hundred pounds. 
 
 The Guildhall, where the Lord Mayor and his friends 
 will dine on the evening of November 9, is magnificently 
 decorated for royal entertainments, at which the sovereign 
 is seated beneath a state canopy at the east end. The 
 architectural lines of the edifice are marked out with five 
 thousand gas-jets, and from the roof hang two painted 
 chandeliers, each twelve feet in diameter, the whole flood 
 of gaslight exceeding that of forty-five thousand candles. 
 The fair average width of the hall is forty-nine feet six 
 inches. The height from the present pavement to the 
 underside of the ridge is eighty-nine feet. The total 
 length is one hundred and fifty-two feet. 
 
 Tli is vast hall will contain between six and seven thou- 
 sand persons. Here have been held the inauguration 
 dinners of the Lord Mayors since 1501. Charles I. was 
 feasted here in 1641, and Charles II. was nine times enter- 
 tained here at dinner. From 1660, with only three ex- 
 ceptions, the sovereign has dined at Guildhall on Lord 
 Mayor's day after his or her accession or coronation. The 
 exceptions were James II., who held the city charter upon 
 a writ of quo warranto at his accession ; George IV., who 
 was rendered unpopular by his quarrel with his Queen, 
 and William IV., who apprehended political tumult. 
 
 The dinner on Lord Mayor's day is always a magnificent 
 spectacle. The Lord Mayor and his distinguished guests 
 advance to the banquet by sound of trumpet, and the 
 superb dresses and official costumes of the company, some- 
 times twelve hundred in number, with the display of costly 
 plate, are very striking. The hall is divided : at the 
 upper, or hustings tables, the courses are served hot ; at 
 the lower tables the turtle only is hot. The baron of beef 
 is brought in procession from the kitchen into the hall in 
 
5 2 
 
 OFFICIAL COSTUME AND INSIGNIA. 
 
 the morning, and, being placed upon a pedestal, at night is 
 cut up by "the city carver." The old kitchen wherein 
 the dinner is dressed is a vast apartment; the principal 
 range is sixteen feet long and seven feet high, and a baron 
 of beef (three cwt.) upon the gigantic spit is turned by 
 hand. There are twenty cooks, besides helpers; fourteen 
 tons of coal are consumed. Some forty turtles are slaugh- 
 tered for two hundred and fifty tureens of soup; and the 
 serving of the dinner requires about two hundred persons 
 and eight thousand plate changes. Next morning the frag- 
 ments of the great feast are given to the poor. 
 
 At state banquets the Lord Mayor wears an "entertain- 
 ing robe, richly embroidered with gold." A new robe, in 
 1867, cost one hundred and sixty guineas. 
 
 He also wears a collar of SS., of pure gold, composed of 
 a series of links, each formed of a letter S ; a united York 
 and Lancaster, or Henry VII. rose'; and a massive knot. 
 The ends of the chain are joined by a portcullis, from the 
 points of which, suspended by a ring of diamonds, hangs 
 the jewel. The entire collar contains twenty-eight S's, 
 fourteen roses, and thirteen knots, and measures sixty-four 
 inches. The jewel contains, in the centre, the city arms, 
 cut in cameo of a delicate blue, on an olive ground. Sur- 
 rounding this, a garter of bright blue, edged with white 
 and gold, bearing the city motto, " Domine dirige nos," in 
 gold letters. The whole is encircled with a costly border 
 of gold S's, alternating with rosettes of diamonds set in 
 silver. The jewel is suspended from the collar by a port- 
 cullis ; but when worn without the collar, is suspended by 
 a broad blue ribbon. The investiture is by a massive gold 
 chain, and when a Lord Mayor is re-elected, which has 
 happened on some few occasions, by two chains. 
 
 September, 1874. 
 
WINDSOR CASTLE. ^ 
 
 XL 
 
 Windsor Castle, an Exterior View. — Its Scenery and Surroundings. 
 
 In Windsor Castle, an educated gentleman, evidently a 
 retired officer of the army, who met us as we ascended a 
 stone stair of about two hundred steps, and walked us 
 round at this lofty height, in an intelligent and easy way 
 described the history spread out before us in the mag- 
 nificent panorama which surrounds this regal dwelling. 
 Twelve counties were visible on that clear afternoon. The 
 Queen being in Scotland, the royal standard was not dis- 
 played from the flagstaff on the Tower of Windsor. This 
 ensign is seven yards in breadth and twelve in length. 
 The circumference of the Round Tower is three hundred 
 feet, and its elevation from the Park below to the top of 
 the flagpole is two hundred and ninety-five feet. 
 
 The first object pointed out was the Home Park, extend- 
 ing on the north and east side to the banks of the Thames, 
 containing about five hundred acres of land, including 
 several avenues of elms planted in the reign of Queen 
 Anne. The serpentine course of the Thames could be 
 discerned for a long distance till it was lost in the pros- 
 pect, and faded away like a silver ribbon. The royal dairy 
 is thirty-seven feet long by thirteen feet wide, the reser- 
 voirs formed of encaustic tiles, and supplied with a flowing 
 stream of cold water. The walls are lined with elegantly- 
 painted tiles, bordered with green, of agricultural subjects 
 in bas-relief, and medallion portraits of the Queen and 
 royal family. Heme's oak, which stood so many centuries 
 in the Park, is immortalized by Shakspeare in his "Merry 
 Wives of Windsor." 
 
 5* 
 
54 WINDSOR CASTLE. 
 
 Nothing was more attractive than the mausoleum in the 
 grounds of Frogmore, erected by Queen Victoria, at a cost 
 of several millions of dollars, for -receiving the remains of 
 Prince Albert. It consists of a central cell, with four 
 transepts branching east, west, north, and south, with a 
 porch adjoining the western transept. The whole floor is 
 supported by brick vaults of massive work, which at the 
 same time form chambers, with loop-holes for the purposes 
 of ventilation and prevention of damp. They are entered 
 by a small flight of stone steps. The central cell is lighted 
 by three semicircular-headed windows in the clere-story, 
 which are externally decorated with Aberdeen granite shafts 
 and heads. The copper roof of the central cell, which is 
 octagonal in plan, rises from the wall-head to the apex with 
 a flat pitch, in the manner of an Italian campanile, and is 
 surmounted with a gilt cross. The sarcophagus, of Aber- 
 deen granite, occupies the centre of the building, on a block 
 of black marble, on which is placed a recumbent statue of 
 the Prince Consort, in white marble, by Baron Marochetti. 
 In gold letters, on the side of the sarcophagus, is the fol- 
 lowing inscription : 
 
 Francis Albert Augustus Charles Emanuel, 
 
 Duke of Saxony and Prince of Saxe-Coburg 
 
 and Gotha, 
 
 Prince Consort, 
 
 Second Son of Ernest I., 
 
 Reigning Duke of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha. 
 
 Born at Rosenau, near Coburg, August 28, 1819. 
 
 Married February 10, 1840, to Victoria, 
 
 Queen of Great Britain and Ireland. 
 
 Died at Windsor, December 14, 1861. 
 
 The porch is entered by a handsome flight of stone steps, 
 lighted with circular-headed three-light windows, with 
 shafts and heads of Guernsey granite, and the front is sup- 
 ported by monolithic columns. The whole of the interior 
 
WINDSOR CASTLE. 5 r 
 
 is faced with colored marble and serpentines, with frescoes 
 and other decorations. The building is in the Italian style, 
 reminding one of the Campanile at Pisa. It is seventy feet 
 in length, and the same in height. The foundation-stone 
 bears the following inscription : 
 
 The foundation-stone of this building, erected by Queen Victoria in 
 pious remembrance of her great and good husband, was laid by her on 
 the 15th day of March, A.D. 1862. 
 
 " Blessed are they that sleep in the Lord." 
 
 No public visitors are admitted to this exclusive tomb; 
 but once a year, on the anniversary of Prince Albert's 
 death, the family and servants of the household are per- 
 mitted to enter. 
 
 The Royal Gardens, near Frogmore, are thirty acres in 
 extent, and enclosed with a wall twelve feet in height. 
 There are two splendid apartments for the use of the Queen, 
 out of which she proceeds to the conservatories, which 
 cover a total range of glass of nine hundred and twenty 
 feet. The vinery is one hundred and two feet long, two 
 peach-houses fifty-six feet long, and there are pits for forcing 
 melons, cucumbers, and asparagus, heated with hot water. 
 
 " Yonder," said our guide, " is the Long Walk, of nearly 
 three miles, shaded all the way by a double row of ancient 
 elms. It was replanted in the year i860, and among its 
 other advantages is a saline spring of great effect in chronic 
 diseases. On one side of Cumberland Lodge is the broad 
 approach to the celebrated lake called Virginia Water, of 
 which you have heard so much, surrounded by a succession 
 of delightful views, improved by artificial aid. It is about 
 seven miles in circumference, one mile and a half in length, 
 and in width one-third of a mile, and is one of the largest 
 artificial sheets of water in England. Now," sakl he, 
 "let me draw your attention to Magna Charta aid to 
 Runnymede, about three and a half miles off, the spot 
 
5 6 SCENERY AND SURROUNDINGS. 
 
 where the barons retired that they might the better obtain 
 the signature of King John to the charter of English 
 liberty, which he gave on the 15th of June, 1215. The 
 table on which the great charter was signed is still well 
 preserved. Here, according to tradition, Henry VIII. met 
 and wooed the beautiful Anna Boleyn, under the large 
 yew-tree, which has flourished upwards of a thousand years, 
 and is thirty-two feet six inches in circumference. Within 
 nine miles of where we stand is the town of Staines, the 
 boundary of the city of London, the market-place of Chert- 
 sey, where Cowley, the poet, lived and died. St. Ann's 
 Hill, near Chertsey, is the place where Charles James Fox 
 resided for some years. Ascot Heath and race-course, one 
 of the finest spots of the kind in the country, is in view. 
 Binfield, away off on the borders of Windsor Forest, was 
 once the residence of Pope, and about a mile from the 
 village is Pope's Wood, named after his celebrated poem 
 of ' The Wood.' The pretty village of Datchet is rendered 
 famous by Shakspeare in his 'Merry Wives of Windsor,' 
 and is a great resort of anglers. In that direction is 
 Beaconsfield, where Waller the poet and Burke the states- 
 man lie buried, and near to which Mr. Disraeli resides 
 during the summer. Eton College, immediately in our 
 front, you will of course visit for yourselves, but it is well 
 enough to tell you that it was founded by Henry VI., and 
 in 1440 that monarch purchased the perpetual possession 
 of the parish of Eton fpr the purpose of this great institu- 
 tion. In directing your attention to various other objects 
 in the distance, — to Salt Hill ; to Stoke Pogis, the pictur- 
 esque church immortalized by Gray's ' Elegy'; to Stoke 
 Park, formerly occupied by a portion of the Penn family ; 
 to the celebrated Burnham beeches, and in fact to all the 
 historic objects in view, and many others which cannot be 
 seen, but are full of interesting memoirs, — I have given 
 you," said our courteous guide, "a bird's-eye view of one 
 
IN WHITEFIELD'S CHAPEL. 
 
 57 
 
 of the most thoughtful and exciting localities in the world." 
 We then left him, and, as we descended the long stair, I 
 told him that I regretted he could not have the opportunity 
 of repeating to the people of the United States his agreeable 
 personal knowledge of these localities. 
 
 October, 1874. 
 
 XII. 
 
 In Whitefield's Chapel. — Mr. Bevan's Experiences in America. 
 
 I have at last had the experience of seeing a repre- 
 sentative body of English people listening to one of their 
 favorite orators. On Wednesday evening, October 7, in 
 company with Paymaster-General J. O. Bradford, of the 
 navy, now stationed here, I walked to Tottenham Court- 
 road Chapel, where, according to the newspapers, the Rev. 
 Llewelyn C. Bevan was to lecture on the subject, "What 
 I Saw and Heard in America." It was George Whitefield 
 who founded this church. It is called a "Chapel," is 
 one of the headquarters of the Dissenters, exceedingly 
 comfortable, with an organ behind the pulpit, cushioned 
 seats, and is an admirable place to speak in. It stands 
 back from the street or road. I paid a fee of sixpence on 
 entrance and another sixpence for a reserved seat. Mr. 
 Bevan, who had only just returned, was warmly welcomed 
 by a very large audience, composed of well- and even 
 elegantly-dressed people, among them many ladies. He 
 is a man about forty, with a very handsome presence, fine 
 expressive face, his head set square on broad shoulders, 
 with something of the look of Anthony J. Drexel, though 
 younger, a flexible tenor voice, with not much of the Eng- 
 lish yet a good deal of the Welsh dialect. He read rapidly 
 
5 8 MR. BE VAN'S EXPERIENCES IN AMERICA. 
 
 from notes, which he frequently left for admirable extem- 
 pore comment. He was very full of his subject, paying 
 much attention to the good ship Scotia, in which he went 
 out from Liverpool, all of which was evidently new to an 
 audience the greater part of which had probably never 
 seen an ocean steamer. He was charmed with Boston — 
 especially at the first-class hotel at which he stopped — 
 with the politeness of the negro and Irish waiters, the ex- 
 quisite cleanliness of the halls and corridors, and the cor- 
 diality of the clerk in the office, who, seeing his name on 
 the register, immediately addressed him as "Mr. Bevan," 
 and after that "he was as intimate with me as if he had 
 known all my relations; and so with all the other hotel 
 clerks I met in America." 
 
 His description of an American bill of fare convulsed 
 his audience with laughter; its length, variety, the excel- 
 lence of the cooking, and the manner in which he and his 
 wife were accommodated in their bed-chamber ; how they 
 were lifted up by the elevator ; how they walked up the 
 heavily-carpeted stairs and along the little corridors, but 
 he winced a good deal when he found he had to pay for all 
 these accommodations four and a half dollars a day, and 
 wondered what would have become of his money if he had 
 brought his mother-in-law and all his other relations .with 
 him. He described with just indignation the frightful 
 habit of tobacco spitting and chewing, and spoke of his 
 disgust at the manner in which the white floors of our 
 public buildings were soiled by this filthy practice. Our 
 rivers were to him inland seas ; our lakes great fresh-water 
 oceans. The splendid steamers running between New 
 York and Boston excited his wonder and delight. He 
 could not adequately describe them ; they were simplv 
 floating palaces, and three-story palaces at that. The com- 
 pany gave him the "Bridal Chamber," the description of 
 which occasioned another roar of laughter. It was not a 
 
MR. SEVAN'S EXPERIENCES IN AMERICA. 
 
 59 
 
 berth like that he had on the ocean steamer, but an airy, 
 elegant, even regal room ; and then the music, the great 
 crowds of happy people, the splendid prospect, and this 
 mighty machine moving along without a jar, at the rate 
 of fifteen miles an hour. 
 
 He liked Boston, with its English air and crooked streets, 
 and he liked Philadelphia too, except that it was too angu- 
 lar, too straight, too regular; but, above all, he enjoyed 
 its abounding hospitalities. He stopped with my friend 
 Alexander Whildin, on Broad Street, and rode out to see 
 the Centennial grounds, and then invoked a blessing, with 
 infinite grace and fervor, upon the close of the century of 
 American liberty, and hoped that the two nations, with all 
 the other nations, would meet there in 1876 in one vast 
 community, devoted to peace, commerce, art, and religion. 
 "Long," he said, "may the Stars and Stripes and the 
 Union Jack float together ! Long may these two great 
 English-speaking nations move hand in hand in their great 
 mission of peace and progress !" Here the whole audience 
 broke out into prolonged cheering. "I deny," he said, 
 " that the English people were against the North in the 
 late war. I was for the North and you were for the North, 
 not so much because we were hostile to slavery, as we were, 
 but because we desired to see that mighty empire united 
 and unbroken." Another tremendous burst of applause. 
 " There are many questions to solve in America," he con- 
 tinued, "but let us hope that grace will rest upon them, 
 and around them will be found the influence of Almighty 
 God." 
 
 He did not like our railroad cars because they gave no 
 resting-place for the head, and it was amusing to listen to 
 his description of the long rows of seats, two on each side, 
 with a passage between, and the manner in which the 
 people poured out like ants from their- holes. But what 
 interested him most was the general intelligence of the 
 
6o MR. BE VAN'S EXPERIENCES IN AMERICA. 
 
 people. They were not so inquisitive as he had expected ; 
 he was the inquirer, and the people answered always with 
 courtesy and wonderful aptitude. " Everybody reads the 
 newspapers," he said, "and a great many write for them. 
 Every town of ten thousand inhabitants has at least two 
 dailies, and where a weekly would starve with us these 
 two dailies would prosper. It was amazing to see how 
 all classes rush for the newspapers, and my wife became 
 alarmed at the manner in which I squandered my pennies 
 in that direction." He spoke in this way, touching on 
 many other subjects, for more than two hours, as I have 
 said, and finished with the remark that he had yet to refer 
 to the religious and educational aspects of his experience, 
 and that a week hence he would resume his narrative. 
 What impressed me during this delightful evening was the 
 easy and unimpeded eloquence of the speaker, and the 
 magnetic responses by the audience, the occasional " Hear, 
 hear!" and frequent expressions of approval. I was so 
 much touched that before the vote of thanks to Mr. Bevan 
 was put I rose in my seat among the audience, and in 
 such fitting terms as I could command — for I confess I was 
 literally overwhelmed with emotion at this unexpected and 
 hearty tribute to my country — I told him that I regretted 
 that all the people of America could not have heard his 
 admirable lecture, and that I felt profoundly grateful for 
 the just and generous manner in which he had spoken ; 
 that we had our faults, and that he had been lenient to 
 them, and had estimated us far above our merits; that I 
 rejoiced as an American citizen, not as a stranger, for I felt 
 that I was among friends, to say that every word he had 
 spoken of the kindly feeling entertained for Great Britain 
 in America was true, and that I could not recall a single 
 newspaper nor a single statesman in my country that enter- 
 tained or expressed anything like hostility to Great Britain ; 
 that all the causes of our differences had passed away, and 
 
CAPTAIN CORAM AND STEPHEN GIRARD. 61 
 
 that nothing remained in the future but a common interest 
 in art, science, manufactures, and civilization. After which, 
 in company with General Bradford, I sought Mr. Bevan's 
 acquaintance, and realize that I have made a valuable 
 friend, and that in listening to him and in mingling with 
 his parishioners I have spent one of the most profitable 
 evenings since my sojourn in London. 
 
 October, 1874. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 Captain Coram and Stephen Girard. — The Foundling Hospital in London. 
 
 If there is no monument more instructive to the stranger 
 in Philadelphia than Girard College, and the history of the 
 eccentric and liberal foreigner who founded it, so there is 
 nothing in London more deserving a visit than the Found- 
 ling Hospital in Guildford Street, Bloomsbury. Stephen 
 Girard began his career as a cabin-boy, sailor, and mate, 
 eventually becoming a master and an owner of ships. 
 Thomas Coram, who originated the Foundling Hospital in 
 London, was also master of a trading vessel, so that these 
 remarkable institutions were commenced by men who had 
 followed the sea. The difference was that Girard left an 
 immense fund at the beginning, while Captain Coram's 
 scheme had to grow rich with years. The title of this in- 
 stitution indicates its purpose. The present system on 
 which children are admitted requires that they should be 
 illegitimate ; that the mother should have borne a good 
 character previous to her misfortune, and that she be poor, 
 and without relations able or willing to maintain the child. 
 The mother never sees her child unless she mixes with the 
 visitors to the church on Sunday, but may inquire after it 
 
 6 
 
62 THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL IN LONDON. 
 
 at stated periods, the benevolent object being to hide the 
 shame of the mother, as well as to preserve the life of the 
 child. There are at present five hundred children receiving 
 the benefit of this charity, from extreme infancy to fifteen 
 years of age. The girls are put to service at fifteen, and 
 the boys to trades at fourteen. The revenue of the hospital 
 is derived from the improved value of the site of fifty-six 
 acres of land in the heart of London. Originally pur- 
 chased in by the Governor in 1741 for five thousand five 
 hundred pounds, as London increased the property ad- 
 vanced in value, and now is mostly covered with squares, 
 and streets, and houses, the ground rents producing an 
 annual amount equal to the original purchase money. 
 
 Last Sunday I visited this interesting place, saw the chil- 
 dren in church and at their meals, passed through their 
 dormitories, examined the pictures and statuary, and at- 
 tended the service in the chapel, where the girls and boys 
 clustered, the first covering their sweet faces with their 
 white aprons when they knelt and prayed ; the second 
 folding their hands and bowing their little well-combed 
 and many-colored heads. 
 
 The scene was exquisite. Nothing could be more touch- 
 ing than these five hundred voices with the enchanting 
 tones of the organ, played by a master-hand, and the fine 
 accompaniment of other singers, including several profes- 
 sionals. The service was prolonged with needless reitera- 
 tion, filling up over two hours, and of course putting the 
 little people almost unanimously to sleep. The sermon 
 which supplemented the whole was brief and sensible. 
 These three hours were well spent, and I felt, as we emerged 
 into the fresh air, that we had witnessed what we could 
 never forget. 
 
 October, 1874. 
 
HENRY IRVING S "HAMLET: 
 
 63 
 
 XIV. 
 
 Lyceum Theatre. — First Night of Henry Irving's " Hamlet." 
 
 Last Saturday night (October 31) we had Shakspeare in 
 London, two hundred and fifty-eight years after his death, 
 recalled by his play of " Hamlet," two hundred and sev- 
 enty-one years after it was first known, the principal char- 
 acter sustained, at the Lyceum Theatre, by Mr. Henry 
 Irving, under the management of Mr. H. L. Bateman, who 
 had made great efforts to present this immortal production 
 with new scenery, costumes, and furniture. At an early 
 hour the spectators began to gather, and before the open- 
 ing farce was closed every place was occupied ; indeed, no 
 tickets could be had at any price a week before. From 
 the seat I occupied I had a good opportunity to see and 
 hear. 
 
 In a private box to my left was John Oxenford, the critic 
 of the London Times, a copy of " Hamlet" open before 
 him — tall, white-haired, and evidently eager for the play; 
 Mr. George W. Smalley, London correspondent of the 
 New York Tribune, at my side; directly in front, Mr. 
 George Augustus Sala, a strong head, protruding brow, 
 and short, turned-up nose, with his beautiful wife ; a few 
 seats farther on, Mr. and Mrs. Edmund Yates ; at the end 
 of the first row, Charles Reade, quiet and alone ; close by, 
 Chevalier Wikoff, with Mrs. Boucicault and her family, 
 and Mrs. E. A. Sothern ; on my left, Mr. Charles Dickens, 
 with the face of his father; back of me, Lord and Lady 
 Harding, well known in literary and dramatic circles; then 
 Miss M. E. Braddon and husband, and in the same vicinity 
 Lord Houghton, the poet. I also noticed Justin McCarthy, 
 
64 HENRY IRVING S "HAMLET." 
 
 James McHenry, and many other celebrities of the press, 
 the stage, the bar, Parliament, and society. The deep in- 
 terest of the great audience was manifested from the start. 
 The earnest conversation, the anxious faces, and the "hush" 
 as the moment for raising the curtain drew near, showed the 
 event to be of universal concern. It was like the first night 
 of the new work of a favorite author. 
 
 Shakspeare, acted in the calm atmosphere of English 
 experience, is of necessity a riper fruit than its transplanted 
 copy — that must be admitted. So much that was new to 
 me last Saturday night was not so new to many of those 
 around me. But Mr. Irving took them frequently by sur- 
 prise, and several times carried critics and audience fairly 
 off their feet. The first act was a scenic wonder. Here 
 Irving revealed his intellectual purpose. Here he fore- 
 shadowed his plan of making Hamlet a colloquial, not a 
 declamatory, character. He was subdued in voice and 
 manner throughout, until his emotions carried him away, 
 and in these he was intense rather than loud. The Ghost 
 (Mr. Mead) was successfully sepulchral, and was aided by 
 a contrivance never seen, I think, in America. He leads 
 Hamlet into a ravine near the rocky coast, and warns him 
 in a mist, which half conceals his figure, and finally hides 
 him altogether as the dawn advances. This was finely 
 done ; but it was the art of the scene-painter alone. Irving 
 is a slight, dark man, the size of Edwin Booth, with a long 
 stride, a fine dark eye, a pale face, black hair, and a stoop, 
 with a voice not unlike the elder Booth. He is called 
 affected, but all stage tragedy is affected. The most 
 successful tragic actors have been the most extravagant. 
 They are like famous statues and pictures ; it is their exag- 
 geration that awakens and holds the passions. Nature is 
 never so effective as when dramatic genius gives it new 
 grace or force. And Irving is of the school that invites 
 imitation. There never was a successful tragedian whose 
 
HEXRY IRVING S "HAMLET." 
 
 65 
 
 best points were not imitated and ridiculed, and who did 
 not make his fame by his eccentricities. Need I quote the 
 travesties of Kean, Kemble, Macready, Charlotte Cush- 
 maii, and, above all, of Forrest? This young man Irving 
 did not succeed by his odd ways, but by his wonderful 
 quietude. Here he was attractively peculiar. " Hamlet," 
 well set, with a good company, always holds any ordinary 
 audience. It is a fine story, and fills two or three hours 
 profitably; but a new Prince, with a fresh young head on 
 his shoulders, and a talent for finding strange jewels in the 
 old mine, and who makes gray, seasoned judges stare, and 
 finally applaud — such a man is a discoverer ; and it is in 
 this that Irving will sway the theatres of both continents 
 before he gets through. 
 
 Not to speak of his interview with the guards on the 
 platform, or with the Ghost, in tones hardly ever above 
 ordinary talk, his rare powers were first clear to me when 
 he met Rosencrantz and Guihierstein, and wormed their 
 secret that they had been sent for to manage him. Here 
 we had the student using his princely name and his boyish 
 impulse to confuse his schoolfellows, and he did it in a 
 grace and style most fascinating. 
 
 The London Examiner complains that his whole ideal of 
 Hamlet is too intellectual ; but that alone will make it a 
 permanent favorite. He gives us a young nobleman, who 
 talks like a scholar, not like a stump-speaker ; who, in his 
 fine soliloquy "To be, or not to be !" takes the reflective 
 mood seated, leans his face on his hand as he begins, and 
 ponders to himself and not as if he were roaring to a mob. 
 How novel and touching Irving's speech to the players ! 
 He comes in with the leader of the strollers, arm in arm, 
 in easy converse, in a quick walk, and, as he enters, he 
 says, "Speak the speech," etc. No wonder the house 
 came down at this like an avalanche. Nor, in the same 
 fine spirit, but full of affection, did he fail to sway and 
 
 6* 
 
66 HENRY IRVING' 'S "HAMLET." 
 
 sweep his audience in his devotion to Horatio. This was 
 simply exquisite, and yet he never once raised his voice out 
 of a conversational tone. All fair Hamlets make points 
 out of the players' scene before the King and Queen. 'The 
 stage was splendidly upholstered and attended. It was the 
 King 's reception-room, robed in Danish hangings, with 
 the regal chairs of the period, a recess with scrolls and 
 books, crowded with guards and pages clad in the Court 
 attire. The act over, the play a "hit," the uncle-king 
 and queen-mother frightened off, Irving flings himself into 
 the monarch's vacant chair, and gives way to his hysteric 
 joy. Here he was magnificent, full-armed with new points. 
 So in his after-banter with the courtiers, with Polonius, with 
 his mother in the finale of the third act. Art could really 
 go no higher, I thought, in these fine revelations. He 
 spoke the contrast between the Kings, not with the two 
 portaits or miniatures before him, but in his mind's eye, 
 and with great effect. These successive triumphs closed 
 the interest of the play. The piece consumed four hours, 
 and the audience worried through the last two acts with 
 evident impatience. 
 
 November, 1874. 
 
CRYSTAL PALACE AT SYDENHAM. 67 
 
 XV. 
 
 Crystal Palace at Sydenham. 
 
 The Directory of the Crystal Palace is composed of 
 eight gentlemen; Thomas Hughes, Esq. ("Tom Brown"), 
 the chairman. I had the pleasure of renewing my ac- 
 quaintance with him. He recalled his pleasant recollec- 
 tions of Philadelphia, and expressed his earnest interest in 
 the prosperity of our Centennial. 
 
 Since 1854, thirty-four millions of visitors, a large pro- 
 portion of them Americans, have been attracted by this 
 marvellous treasure-house. Take Capitol Hill, in Wash- 
 ington City, or George's Hill, in Fairmount Park, each 
 the crest of a magnificent natural panorama, the first facing 
 a glorious amphitheatre made by the curve of the Potomac 
 River, and the second overlooking the Schuylkill and Dela- 
 ware and the superb rural domain including the garden 
 counties of Eastern Pennsylvania, and you may have some 
 idea of the height which is crowned by what well deserves 
 to be called the most instructive and novel exhibition in 
 Europe. A temple of inconceivable beauty stretches along 
 this elevation, towering high into the air, and easily seen 
 from a long distance. Studied from the outer grounds — 
 say, from the Italian flower-garden — you obtain an admir- 
 able view of the whole crystal structure. The stupendous 
 length of the building, its wonderful aerial appearance, and 
 its vast and dazzling effects, produce an impression surpass- 
 ing every other architectural elevation in the world. 
 
 The main building consists of a grand central nave, two 
 side aisles, two main galleries, two transepts, and two 
 wings. Above the level of this main floor it is constructed 
 
68 CRYSTAL PALACE AT SYDENHAM. 
 
 entirely of iron and glass, with the exception of a portion 
 of the western section, which is panelled with wood. The 
 whole length of the main building of the Crystal Palace is 
 one thousand six hundred and eight feet, the wings five 
 hundred and seventy-four feet each, making a total length 
 of two thousand seven hundred and fifty-six feet, which, 
 with the seven hundred and twenty feet in the colonnade 
 leading from the railway station to the wings, gives a total 
 length of three thousand four hundred and seventy-six feet, 
 or nearly three-quarters of a mile, covered with a trans- 
 parent roof of glass. This edifice took nearly twenty years 
 to reach its present perfection. As you pass in from the 
 low, level railway you enter by a colonnade seven hundred 
 and twenty feet long by seventeen feet wide, with a super- 
 ficial area of fifteen thousand five hundred feet, and by a 
 covered passage of glass and iron. Here you receive at 
 one glance a coup d' ceil unspeakably glorious. Nothing 
 touches the observer more in this mighty receptacle than 
 the copies of the antiquities, the architecture, sculpture, 
 and mural decorations of the ages in chronological sequence. 
 They include all styles, from the earliest known time, from 
 the remote ages of Egypt to the sixteenth century; the 
 originals brought back in faithful similitudes, not in minia- 
 ture but in full size. Here are Egyptian, Greek, Roman 
 Courts, — the latter with a fine model of a portion of the 
 Coliseum, showing its enormous range, capable of seating 
 eighty-seven thousand spectators. 
 
 Now we stand in the Alhambra, with its Saracenic and 
 Moorish architecture, sprung from the Byzantine period. 
 The novel gorgeousness, the exquisite fineness of the work 
 in gold, green, and red, recall the descriptions of Washing- 
 ton Irving. There are no statues or pictures here, for the 
 religion of the Moors forbade the representation of living 
 objects. But the delicately wrought tracery on every side, 
 the concentration of artistic power and skill, irresistibly 
 
CRYSTAL PALACE AT SYDENHAM. 69 
 
 enchain your attention. The German Mediaeval Court is 
 another interesting section. The English Mediaeval Court 
 extends over a long space, with its startling history in 
 statues and castle-churches. Then the French and Italian 
 Mediaeval Vestibules, and the Renaissance Court, beginning 
 with the fifteenth century. But perhaps nothing is more 
 visited and marvelled at than the Pompeian Court of nearly 
 eighteen hundred years ago. I do not pretend in these 
 dislocated remarks to give my American readers anything 
 more than a glimpse, much less to enter into a narrative, 
 of the nave and the transepts, the figures and animals from 
 all the islands of the sea, alike of India, Asia, Africa, and 
 America ; the long lines of statues in marble or plaster, the 
 wonderful marine aquarium, or the endless picture-gallery, 
 said to be, if not the finest, the largest in the world, in the 
 upper regions of the palace. These would require a volume. 
 
 The prospect from the great towers embraces an horizon 
 including parts of six counties, — Middlesex, Surrey, Kent, 
 Essex, Bedfordshire, and Bucks, — the towers of London 
 and Windsor, and the downs of Epsom. A fine family 
 hotel adjoins the palace, where rooms can be obtained 
 at reasonable rates, overlooking the rich historic scene 
 to which I have referred. Many persons take lodgings 
 here and remain for days, while in the thickly-populated 
 neighborhood are found hundreds of students, educated in 
 the various schools of the palace, who reside there during 
 their terms. 
 
 The distance from London is about ten miles. The 
 price of admission to the palace and grounds on the first 
 three days of the week is one shilling. Schools are ad- 
 mitted on fete days at sixpence each. Eighty-five thousand 
 persons have been fed in one day by the refreshment de- 
 partment, under Mr. Frederick Sawyer, and excellent din- 
 ners are provided inside the building for one hundred to 
 five hundred persons. By inquiring at the office I obtained 
 
70 CRYSTAL PALACE AT SYDENHAM. 
 
 from the books the following figures : In 187 1, for one day 
 in August, the Foresters' fete-day, eighty-four thousand 
 nine hundred and twenty-five people were entertained in 
 the palace and grounds; in 1872, on the same occasion, 
 eighty-four thousand nine hundred and fifty-five; in 1873, 
 sixty-eight thousand five hundred and forty-three ; and in 
 1874, sixty thousand eight hundred and thirty-two. The 
 grounds themselves, with all their adornments of statuary, 
 buildings, and walks, deserve especial notice, and if you 
 lift your vision over and beyond you see the waters of the 
 lakes and islands, with life-size illustrations of the mon- 
 strous animals that inhabited the earth countless ages ago, 
 when the world was young; and far beyond the palace pre- 
 cincts is visible the great garden of nature, always a picture 
 of rural loveliness almost unmatched by any scene so close 
 to the great London town. 
 
 There is one point to which I would direct especial atten- 
 tion, and that is the Crystal Palace system of education in 
 art, science, and technology. In the "Ladies' Depart- 
 ment" there are four hundred pupils. A lady can learn 
 drawing and water-coloring for three pounds and three 
 shillings for twelve lessons, and seven pounds and seven 
 shillings for thirty-six lessons. The same for drawing and 
 modelling, .and the same for painting in oil from the life. 
 The price for English, German, French, and other lan- 
 guages, ranges from two pounds and two shillings to five 
 pounds and five shillings for three months. Cooking and 
 practical economy are taught separately for two pounds and 
 two shillings for twelve lessons ; artistic wood-carving, 
 twelve lessons for three pounds and three shillings. The 
 nobility send many of their children here, and a few days 
 before my visit Sir Edward Thornton's daughters were 
 admitted. The professors selected to teach the different 
 studies include some of the first intellects of England. 
 The famous Sir Julius Benedict presides on Thursday over 
 
CRYSTAL PALACE AT SYDENHAM. 7I 
 
 the musical department ; Edward Goodall on Wednesday 
 over the drawing and modelling; C. Arniitage over the 
 painting in oil ; W. R. Shenton over the drawing, and 
 Mrs. Mary Hooper over the practical domestic economy 
 and cooking. 
 
 Not to speak of the technological department, or the 
 school of practical engineering, each worth a long descrip- 
 tion, let me pass to the reading-room and library, where I 
 find two special features most worthy of imitation. The 
 first is a complete representation of practical advertising 
 of all new books and older publications, British and for- 
 eign, and a means of obtaining all literary information. 
 The second, the reading-room, fitted like a club room, is 
 supplied with two hundred and fifty newspapers and jour- 
 nals, and is well warmed and ventilated. Accommodation 
 for writing, with post-office and telegraph departments, 
 statistical information, and all similar conveniences, are 
 found here. The library adjoining is open for consulta- 
 tion by means of a catalogue, and visitors can obtain from 
 it any book they please. The British and French pub- 
 lishers are awarded space here, where they print the name 
 of the firm and notices of their books, for which great 
 privilege they gladly supply gifts of their respective fresh 
 publications. I found the newspapers arranged in alpha- 
 betical order, but only two were American. 
 
 November, 1874. 
 
72 
 
 MONCURE D. CONWAY IN THE PULPIT. 
 
 XVI. 
 
 Moncure D. Conway in the Pulpit. — His Peculiar Disbeliefs. 
 
 Among the best-known preachers in London is Moncure 
 D. Conway, the head of the Materialistic congregation at 
 South Place Chapel, Finsbury, the temple in which for 
 many years preached the celebrated W. J. Fox, some time 
 member of Parliament for Oldham, and known as the 
 champion of the principles of Radical Democracy. Mr. 
 Conway is a Virginian, who came here first as an advanced 
 advocate of the Union cause seven years ago. The prom- 
 inence with which he identified himself with the North in 
 London soon gave him a large hold among certain advanced 
 thinkers who have always sympathized with America. In 
 this way he was called to the pulpit at Finsbury, where he 
 continues to preside, attracting large numbers every Sunday 
 morning by the peculiarities of his opinions and his style. 
 His ability is conceded to be of the highest order. A 
 tall, spare man of about forty, with a most intellectual yet 
 ascetic face, closely resembling John A. Kasson of Iowa, 
 member of Congress, his oratory is quite unpretending, 
 rarely rising to declamation, and only when presenting his 
 strongest point expressing intensity. He is of the mate- 
 rialistic school, in fact a bow-shot beyond John Stuart Mill 
 in his Theism, rejecting a personal deity and insisting that 
 what we call God is within us — our inner conception, man- 
 ifested by our aspirations after truth. It was a novel sensa- 
 tion to follow this brilliant student and scholar through his 
 intricate reasonings in support of this position, and to mark 
 the effect of his rhetoric upon his large and thoughtful 
 audience, most of whom belonged to the better classes. 
 
MONCURE D. CONWAY IN THE PULPIT. 73 
 
 They accept his platform with enthusiasm, and as most of 
 them are people of rare culture, their number is rapidly 
 increasing. The singing was exquisite, and the hymns, 
 of which I here transcribe two, were given with unusual 
 sweetness and power. 
 
 ANTHEM. 
 
 We never, never will bow down 
 
 To the rude stock or sculptured stone. 
 
 We worship God, and God alone. 
 
 HYMN. 
 
 Everlasting ! changing never ! 
 
 Of one strength, no more, no less, 
 Thine almightiness forever. 
 
 Ever one Thy holiness ; 
 Thee eternal. 
 
 Thee all glorious, we possess. 
 
 Shall things withered, fashions olden, 
 Keep us from life's flowing spring? 
 
 Waits for us the promise gulden, 
 Waits each new diviner thing. 
 
 Onward ! onward ! 
 Why this hopeless tarrying ? 
 
 Nearer to Thee would we venture, 
 
 Of Thy truth more largely take; 
 Upon life diviner enter, 
 
 Into day more glorious break ! 
 To the ages 
 
 Fair bequests and costly make. 
 
 By the old aspirants glorious, 
 
 By each soul heroical, 
 By the strivers half victorious. 
 
 By thy Jesus and thy Paul, 
 
 Truth's own martyrs. 
 
 We are summoned one and all. 
 
 By each saving word unspoken, 
 
 By Thy truth, as yet half won, 
 By each idol still unbroken, 
 D 7 
 
74 MR. CONWAY'S PECULIAR DISBELIEFS. 
 
 By Thy will, yet poorly done, 
 
 O Almighty ! 
 We are borne resistless on. 
 
 Mr. Conway receives two hundred and fifty pounds, or 
 one thousand two hundred and fifty dollars, a year for 
 preaching once on Sunday morning at South Place Church, 
 and probably almost as much for his discourses on Sunday 
 evening at Camden-town. He is also the correspondent 
 of an American journal, a contributor on theological sub- 
 jects to several of the London scientific reviews, and a 
 great favorite in society. I could not help smiling on 
 Sunday, after Conway had denied the existence of a devil 
 and proclaimed his doubt as to a personal deity, insisting 
 that every man had his own God in his better actions, 
 when among the announcements of the proceedings of the 
 coming week he read a notice of a lecture to be delivered 
 at St. George's Hall, by Dr. Zerffi, of the South Kensing- 
 ton Museum, on the " Concrete and Abstract Nature of 
 the Devil." An American gentleman at my side, who had 
 been repeatedly startled by the extraordinary positions of 
 Mr. Conway, quietly remarked, "What is the use of lec- 
 turing about the devil, when he has just been trying to 
 convince us that he has no existence?" 
 
 November, 1874. 
 
HARROW-ON-THE-HILL. 75 
 
 XVII. 
 
 Harrow-on-the-Hill. — Records of Illustrious Schoolboys. 
 
 Two weeks ago, on a very fine day (November n), I 
 visited the famous school of Harrow-on-the-Hill, situated 
 about seven miles north of London. It derives its chief 
 claim from its start as a "free grammar school." The 
 founder was John Lyon, yeoman, the owner of a farm at 
 Preston, a neighboring village, and in the year 1571 Queen 
 Elizabeth granted the charter, but it was not until 1590 
 that the laws of the school were framed. The primitive 
 object of the founder was the teaching of thirty poor chil- 
 dren of the parish of Harrow, to which end he had de- 
 voted a yearly sum during his lifetime of " twenty marks 
 of lawful English money;" but in his will he set apart a 
 large body of land and tenements for the purpose of erect- 
 ing a free grammar school, to remain there forever under 
 certain restrictions. 
 
 The school-building consists of the master's house (the 
 school- and speech-room) and the chapel. They are built 
 in the Elizabethan style, of red brick, with neat stone 
 dressings, unencumbered by any elaborate ornament, lofty 
 bay-windows being the prominent features in the school- 
 and speech-rooms. The school, erected about three years 
 after the founder's decease, stands below the church, a little 
 to the south. The arrangement of the interior of the an- 
 cient part of the building remains exactly in its original 
 state. 
 
 The ancient school-room is oblong, about fifty feet in 
 length by twenty-one wide, and proportionably high. The 
 walls are wainscoted with oak to about one-half of their 
 elevation, above which are large, square, heavy- framed 
 
7 6 HARK O IV- ON- THE- HILL. 
 
 windows. The room- has a gloomy appearance, which is 
 somewhat increased by the dingy color of the wainscoting, 
 entirely covered with the names of many generations of 
 Harrovians, cut in the panels in every variety of shape, 
 size, and character. 
 
 These inscriptions are held in great veneration, and are 
 certainly extremely interesting. They are not suffered to 
 be desecrated by paint or varnish, but remain exactly in 
 the rude state in which they were cut. Among them will 
 be found the names of many distinguished public char- 
 acters of the last eighty or ninety years ; of Dr. Parr, 
 Sheridan (only the initials R. B. S.), W. Jones ('Sir Wil- 
 liam), Bennett (Bishop of Cloyne), Ryder (Bishop of 
 Lichfield and Coventry), Murray (Bishop of Rochester), 
 Dymocke (the Champion), Ryder (Lord Harrowby), Tem- 
 ple (Lord Palmerston), Hartington (Duke of Devonshire), 
 Lord Normanby, Lord Byron, and Peel (Sir Robert). On 
 account of the lamented death of Sir Robert Peel, this in- 
 scription has excited considerable interest ; it is carved on 
 the panel to the left of the seat of the head-master, and it 
 is pleasing to observe that on the same panel appear the 
 names of three of his sons, " R. Peel, 1835 ;" " F. Peel, 
 1836;" and " W. Peel, 1837." Between the two last let- 
 ters of Sir Robert Peel's name, and in smaller letters, 
 appears the name of (Spencer) Perceval. 
 
 Among the objects of interest to be noticed in the library 
 are the portraits of Dr. Parr, Lord Byron, and John Sayer, 
 captain of the school in 1770, afterward founder of the 
 Sayer Scholarships] a bust in marble of Lord Byron, pre- 
 sented by Lord Dungannon ; a sword worn by Lord Byron 
 when in Greece, and a rich mosaic table from the Temple 
 of Peace at Rome, presented by Captain Keane. 
 
 On the 20th of May, 1871, three hundred years since 
 the original charter was granted by Queen Elizabeth, the 
 anniversary was commemorated by a statement of the 
 
HARROW- ON- THE-HILL. 
 
 77 
 
 extraordinary history and progress of Harrow School. 
 The number of scholars in 1745 had risen to one hundred 
 and thirty; and on that day, in 1S71, the number had 
 grown to five hundred and sixty-seven. It is six hundred 
 now, and the applications for admission are more numerous 
 than at any former time. In the chapel, the church, and 
 the school there is no distinction of seats for sons of noble- 
 men. It was for this reason that Rufus King, the American 
 ambassador, sent his sons to Harrow, as the only school 
 where no ostensible distinction was shown to rank. There 
 are several Americans now among the scholars. No charge 
 is made for tuition, but all the other expenses amount to 
 about two hundred and fifty pounds or one thousand two 
 hundred dollars a year; and, judging by the fact that it is 
 now rather an institution of the aristocracy than for the 
 class for which it was intended, considerable discrimination 
 is exercised. John Lyon's original bequest has largely in- 
 creased in value. The building leases left to repair the 
 road from London to Harrow, and other property in the 
 neighborhood, which sixty years ago produced only one 
 hundred pounds per annum, now return an annual income 
 of over four thousand pounds; but it is much complained 
 that this income should be used rather for keeping roads 
 in repair than for additional accommodations for the 
 scholars on the hill itself. The visitor reaches this mag- 
 nificent elevation by ascending a steep, long hill, which 
 rises in the midst of the flat surrounding country, from 
 which Windsor Castle is visible, with an intervening space 
 of highly cultivated landscape. The hedge-rows are still 
 green, among which stately elms luxuriously wave. When 
 we walked around the ancient enclosure in this lofty seat 
 of learning, after passing through the beautiful English 
 village of Harrow, the air was so pure, the country so quiet 
 and fresh, and the trees hardly yet stripped of their au- 
 tumnal leaves, — the fact that more than five hundred boys 
 
 7* 
 
78 FLYING VISIT TO BRIGHTON. 
 
 had gone home for a day's holiday leaving very few of 
 the youngsters at their favorite games, — it seemed almost 
 impossible that we were within view of giant London, with 
 its four millions of people. For hours we wandered about 
 the historic grounds, amid a solitude so profound that it 
 was easy to recall the clustering memories of the past. 
 
 November, 1874. 
 
 XVIII. 
 
 Flying Visit to Brighton. 
 
 While American watering-places are probably assailed 
 with storm and snow, and certainly closed to all visitors, 
 the South Coast of England is radiant with fashion and 
 wealth ; and Brighton, queen of the circle of these lovely 
 cities by the sea, finds her regular population of eighty 
 thousand nearly trebled by crowds of visitors. Brighton 
 is about fifty miles from London — less than two hours by 
 rail ; and when I got here the first sight was the sea as 
 smooth as glass, exactly like the aspect of the Atlantic 
 from the American beach on a summer afternoon. Imagine 
 Long Branch on a hill facing the ocean ; the beach ex- 
 tending back, and the town seated on a hill ; a long, level 
 drive raised above the sands, flanked by three miles of 
 bright stone palaces, and behind these crescents of streets, 
 of the same material, busy with trade and travel — in fact, 
 a mimic London. It was a crisp November day in London, 
 and we had cold feet on the ride ; but here the breath of 
 the sea seemed to temper and lighten the air. There was 
 no frost ; men were working in the gardens ; the birds 
 were singing on the wing ; the sun shone warm on the 
 
 
MANCHESTER. 
 
 79 
 
 water ; and though there were rugs in the passing carriages, 
 and the stout English on the Parade wore heavy coats, the 
 climate was very like our Indian summer. The winter is 
 the season of the aristocracy, and they seemed to be here 
 in force, judging by the long procession of equipages, the 
 throngs in the magnificent hotels, and the universal gayety. 
 Here all is solid ; no frame houses, ready to take fire and 
 burn like tinder, but permanent and massive architecture, 
 recalling ages past and defying ages to come. 
 
 It is difficult to say which is most the glory of Brighton, 
 its superb Parade or its Aquarium, directly on the coast. 
 The latter is a subterranean palace, a succession of grot- 
 toes filled with living inhabitants of the sea. It was a fairy 
 home under-ground, and the effect was heightened by the 
 strains of a fine band of music, sounding as it were from 
 the distant caves, as if in harmony with the falling waters. 
 
 November, 1874. 
 
 XIX. 
 
 Manchester and Rochdale. — Visit to John Bright, M.P., Tribune of the 
 People. 
 
 "Cotton is undoubtedly king!" you exclaim, as you 
 ride through the royal streets of Manchester. And even 
 more so since the abolition of slavery in the United States. 
 The cotton used in Manchester is chiefly from South Caro- 
 lina and Georgia, grown upon the small islands of the sea- 
 coast bordering upon those States, and is therefore called 
 "sea-island cotton." When Mr. Roebuck, one of the 
 members for Sheffield, demanded in the House of Com- 
 mons that the paper blockade should be broken in order 
 
80 MANCHESTER. 
 
 that cotton might be supplied to the suffering districts in 
 England, he was properly answered that the time would 
 never come when the produce of slave labor would again 
 supply that prime ingredient of British prosperity. "You 
 will never procure cotton from the United States unless 
 from the hands of freemen," was the reply of one of the 
 few members of Parliament who stood by the North in its 
 trying and tumultuous days. And now, as you study the 
 enormous production of the great district of which the city 
 of Manchester is the capital, you will realize the fulfilment 
 of this splendid prophecy. 
 
 Better than this is the happier change in the feelings of 
 the people, not of Manchester alone, but of all this opu- 
 lent Kingdom. The downfall of slavery has given them 
 all, and more than all, the cotton they require from the 
 United States, has opened to them the door of a wider and 
 more diversified commerce, has filled their hearts with 
 kindlier sympathies for their American kindred, has extin- 
 guished the last embers of war, and is bringing the two 
 great English-speaking nations into closer neighborhood 
 every hour of every passing day. 
 
 Manchester, one hundred and eighty miles west of Lon- 
 don and over thirty-one miles east from Liverpool, is the 
 centre of a district which includes thirty-one towns, all of 
 them mostly engaged in the manufacture of cotton goods 
 of almost endless varieties. Here you find the latest im- 
 provements in machinery, and the different methods by 
 which the steam-engine has decreased human labor. For- 
 merly every little cottage by the roadside, every other 
 house in the smaller streets of the towns, had at least one 
 hand-loom with a weaver at work. Now there are hun- 
 dreds of looms, and in some cases upwards of one thou- 
 sand, in a single one of these stupendous factories, all 
 worked by steam-power, and attended by young women 
 and girls. Apart from the incalculable production of va- 
 
VISIT TO JOHN BRIGHT, M.P. 8 1 
 
 rious cotton -cloths, so called, some of the weaving-facto- 
 ries make velveteen, fnstian, moleskin, etc., while others 
 confine themselves to sewing- and knitting-cotton, tape, 
 thread, and other little etceteras of a lady's work-box. A 
 million yards of tape are produced in one mill in the 
 course of a week. 
 
 In company with the Right Honorable John Bright, 
 M.P., the illustrious man whose name is sincerely loved 
 and venerated in the United States, — in the North, because 
 of his determined devotion to its cause during the war, 
 and even in the South, in view of his persistent advocacy 
 of free trade, heretofore accepted in that region, — I passed 
 through the mills belonging to the great firm of which he 
 is still a partner, and heard his description in full view of 
 the practical evidences of the progress of the manufacture 
 of cotton. He pointed out the various processes by which, 
 from the raw material to the finest fabrics, including beauti- 
 ful carpeting, this wonderful industry has developed human 
 genius and lessened human labor. Together we mounted 
 the long stairs leading to the extended floors, upon some 
 of which there were as many as five hundred girls and 
 women employed ; together we descended to the regions 
 where the cotton was cleaned, separated, dyed, and sent 
 forth to the various other departments, and finally witnessed 
 the exquisite finish of the complete material as it was being 
 packed and directed to the markets of the world. Roch- 
 dale, the beautiful town in which Mr. Bright lives, one of 
 many of equal prosperity and magnificence, is about ten 
 miles from Manchester, and you approach it by rail, bor- 
 dered on both sides by huge rows of factories. In the 
 evening it was a wonderful sight, as I looked through the 
 window from the train upon this almost unbroken illumina- 
 tion, showing thousands of human beings still at work, 
 preparing goods for their own and distant nations. Roch- 
 dale contains upwards of forty thousand people actively 
 
 D* 
 
82 TRIBUNE OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 engaged in the manufacture of cottons and calicoes, and is 
 directly on the Yorkshire border, which is the great wool 
 district, where the factories are mainly engaged in the pro- 
 duction of flannels, wool, fustians, and friezes. Many of 
 these fabrics are also made in Rochdale, and there is 
 scarcely a neighboring hamlet without a woollen- or cotton- 
 mill. 
 
 Of John Bright at home, in the bosom of his family, I 
 cannot speak. I was his guest during two delightful days, 
 and do not feel justified in discussing what transpired at 
 his fireside 'in the unrestrained freedom of private life. 
 It will, however, gratify our countrymen to hear that he 
 is restored to excellent health, and that he is now, as he 
 has always been, the devoted counsellor and friend of 
 America. 
 
 Mr. Bright lives in a substantial house, with modest out- 
 buildings, on an eminence overlooking the town, directly 
 in view of the cotton-mills of the firm, and over the way 
 from his brother Thomas, whose residence is a contrast, 
 with its pictures and statuary, to the plain and unpretend- 
 ing home of the eminent Commoner. Jacob Bright, former 
 M.P. for Manchester,* is also a Rochdale man. I did not 
 meet him, but I was present when he presided at a Woman's 
 Rights gathering in the parlor of the Mayor of that place, 
 and heard his speech — a quiet, sensible statement in favor 
 of female householders voting at all elections, instead of 
 as now (and this was good news to me) only in the choice 
 of city officers. Jacob does not resemble his brother John 
 in the slightest ; the latter has one of those countenances 
 which beam with benevolence, and when lighted up, as is 
 frequently the case, are singularly magnetic. Imagine such 
 a man before ten thousand people, swaying them with the 
 added fascinations of a strong brain and a melodious voice. 
 
 * Re-elected n 1876. 
 
MOlYSIGNOK CAPEL. 83 
 
 Jacob is tall, gray, and graceful in manner, alike of talk 
 and walk, and I do not know how better to bring John 
 Bright before you than to say he is not unlike John O. 
 James or Colonel Thomas A. Scott, with a pair of white 
 whiskers running under the chin, and snowy hair. 
 
 Rochdale has the honor of being the first place in Eng- 
 land that started the system of co-operative stores, which 
 present here an important social feature. The Equitable 
 Pioneers' Society number nearly seven thousand in their 
 ranks, and the North of England Co-operative Society 
 more than thirty-two thousand. The system is extended 
 to various branches of business, such as corn-mills, lands 
 and buildings, manufactures, etc. The new central store 
 at St. Mary's Gate cost ten thousand pounds, and is worth 
 seeing. 
 
 December, 1874. 
 
 XX. 
 
 Monsignor Capel. — His Preaching. — Catholics in the United Kingdom. 
 
 The favorite Catholic orator, Monsignor F. J. Capel, 
 resides in a beautiful mansion, Cedar Villa, Wright's Lane, 
 Kensington. It was purchased from Mr. E. A. Sothern 
 (Lord Dundreary), the actor, is set in handsome grounds, 
 and has the air of a comfortable student's retreat. It is 
 near the newly established Catholic college of which 
 Monsignor Capel is the chief, and in close vicinity to the 
 Cathedral. I found him alone, when, in response to his 
 imitation through Mr. Girard and Mr. Saner, correspond- 
 ents of New York papers, we lunched with him, and had 
 the pleasure of enjoying his fascinating conversation. He 
 
84 MONSIGNOR CAPEL. 
 
 is young, evidently not yet forty, of fine presence, hand- 
 some face and features, erect, tall, and stout. He soon put 
 us at our ease, and we talked on various topics with the 
 utmost familiarity and freedom. In a marked English 
 accent, for the Monsignor is an Englishman born, and 
 with a pronunciation singularly pure and distinct, he con- 
 versed with us for more than an hour with candor and 
 ability. A profound Catholic, believing in all the recent 
 declarations of his Church, he is, nevertheless, keenly sen- 
 sitive in regard to his loyalty as an Englishman, and does 
 not hesitate to take strong issue with Mr. Gladstone's state- 
 ment that a fervent believer in Papal infallibility and the 
 Immaculate Conception cannot, in consequence, be a 
 faithful British subject. He was preparing a rejoinder to 
 the late English Premier, which is intended, like the great 
 "Expostulation," to be cheaply printed for universal 
 circulation. 
 
 The title of Monsignor has been conferred upon only 
 four or five Catholic priests in England, and is intended as 
 a reward for having performed signal service to the Catho- 
 lic Church near the Pontiff, and, in his case, as a recogni- 
 tion of high talents. Those who have read " Lothair," 
 the last novel of Mr. Disraeli, the present British Prime 
 Minister, need not to be told that this Monsignor Capel is 
 the same who figures in its brilliant pages. The peculiar 
 province of this gifted priest is believed to be the conver- 
 sion to Catholicism of eminent English men and women, 
 one of his captives for the Church having been the young 
 and wealthy Marquis of Bute, whom he met in a foreign 
 country and convinced by his rare personal and mental 
 attractions. 
 
 Preferring not to enter into the controversy now raging 
 in England, I directed the attention of the Monsignor to 
 the number of gentlemen of the Catholic religion in 
 America whose friendship I had enjoyed, and I was glad 
 
]\IOA r SlGNOR CAPEL'S PREACHING-. S5 
 
 to observe that most of them were familiar names to him. 
 We talked of the late Archbishop Hughes, of New York ; 
 of the present Archbishop McCloskey ; of Bishop Wood, 
 of Philadelphia — and on this subject we dwelt for a long 
 time ; of my personal friend, Daniel Dougherty, of whom 
 he spoke with much admiration ; of the venerable Father 
 Keenan, of Lancaster, still living when I left America last 
 July, at a great age — ninety-five — and I hope yet remain- 
 ing among his people; and of many more, including the 
 Catholics who had figured in our public councils, fought in 
 our armies, and held high rank in the republic of letters. 
 I then called his attention to the celebration of the Cen- 
 tennial of American Independence, and gave him a rapid 
 sketch of the causes which led to our separation from Great 
 Britain and the benefits which had resulted to both countries 
 from it, and the universal anxiety in the United States to 
 cultivate yet closer relations with the great English-speak- 
 ing nation of the world. We commented at length on 
 that noble feature in our Constitution, the separation of 
 Church and State, and the incalculable blessings that had 
 crowned our experience in that regard. 
 
 Last Sunday evening I attended the Spanish Chapel, near 
 Manchester Square, and heard a sermon by the Monsignor. 
 This handsome chapel was crowded to suffocation, and I 
 had much difficulty in obtaining a seat in the upper gallery 
 near the organ. The Monsignor occupied the pulpit, situ- 
 ated on the left side, about midway between the beautiful 
 columns. He was dressed in full canonicals ; and after 
 reading the last decree of the Pope, in which all unbelievers 
 in his infallibility and in the Immaculate Conception were 
 anathematized, he proceeded with rare ease to pronounce 
 an extempore oration, in which he enforced the last mess 
 from Rome with much emphasis. I must confess that he 
 did not make his case very strong to my mind. His 1 
 bilities are unquestioned, and I could readily perceive why 
 
 8 
 
86 ENGLAND AND THE CENTENNIAL. 
 
 he had attained a commanding position, but I did not find 
 the learning nor the philosophy I had looked for. The 
 fact is, the sermon was rather orthodox than Catholic — in 
 truth, a little commonplace, having few salient points, save 
 indeed where he announced his full concurrence in the 
 Papal decree; on the whole, a very sensible and practical 
 appeal to his hearers. The singing was fine, the worship- 
 pers most devout, and the service neither tiresome nor 
 lengthy. 
 
 December, 1874. 
 
 XXI. 
 
 England and the Centennial. — Vienna Exhibition. — Our Advantages. 
 
 Considering that the British Government makes a merit 
 of acting with due deliberation, it was only natural that 
 some time should elapse before a decision should be reached 
 in regard to the International Exhibition at Philadelphia 
 on the Fourth of July, 1876. The former Ministry under 
 Mr. Gladstone had, I understand, declined to take part in 
 our Centennial for prudential reasons, doubtless in conse- 
 quence of the unusual monetary revolution which began in 
 America in September, 1873; anc ^ their successors under 
 Mr. Disraeli, mindful of this memory, evidently waited 
 until they could see their way clear. But the subject itself 
 gradually took hold of the public mind. 
 
 At first there was a strange indifference throughout Great 
 Britain. One by one the great newspapers took it up, and 
 by means of correspondence and personal interviews the 
 matter reached the provinces and the great cities of the 
 United Kingdom, until within the last month the Philadel- 
 
ENGLAND AND THE CENTENNIAL. 87 
 
 phia World's Fair assumed an importance and a dignity 
 which could not escape official attention. The energy of 
 the American legation in London, seconded by the hearty 
 appeals of Sir Edward Thornton, British minister at Wash- 
 ington, during his late sojourn here, kept the subject steadily 
 before the Ministry, and on the third of this month, Lord 
 Derby addressed a letter to the United States minister, 
 cordially accepting President Grant's invitation, and in- 
 forming him that the British Government would take all 
 necessary measures to be properly represented at Philadel- 
 phia in 1876. On the 5th instant General Schenck replied 
 to this letter in appropriate terms. 
 
 The importance of the recognition of our exhibition by 
 the British Government cannot be overestimated. Judging 
 by the British department at Vienna in 1873, and by the 
 many powerful reasons which will operate to secure its 
 larger representation at Philadelphia, we may now look 
 forward to an example which cannot fail to act magically 
 at home. This example will prove the necessity of the in- 
 ternational feature repeated in the bill which passed Con- 
 gress on the 5th June last. You will recollect that many 
 distinguished men doubted the propriety of that feature, 
 and the illustrious Charles Sumner expressed his opinion 
 that Great Britain would not participate in the celebration 
 of the close of the first century of American civilization. 
 Yet now, in the face of the acceptance of all the European 
 powers, with I believe one exception, supplemented by the 
 great authority of the United Kingdom, we may prepare 
 for a demonstration in America one year from the Fourth of 
 July next that must enlist the best capacities of our people. 
 
 The volume published by the British Commission in 
 1874, containing a full account of its proceedings in re- 
 gard to the Vienna Universal Exhibition, is large and 
 beautifully printed. The British commissioners were : His 
 Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, K.G., President; 
 
88 VIENNA EXHIBITION. 
 
 the Right Hon. Sir A. Buchanan, her Majesty's ambassador 
 at the Court of Vienna ; his Serene Highness the Duke of 
 Teck ; his Serene Highness Count Gleichen ; the Most 
 Honorable the Marquis of Ripon, Lord President of the 
 Council; Right Honorable Lord Cathcart, President of 
 the Royal Agricultural Society of Great Britain ; the Right 
 Honorable Earl Cowper, K.G. ; Lord Henry Lennox, 
 M.P. ; Right Honorable Lord Acton; Right Honorable 
 H. E. Childers, M.P. ; Sir Anthony Rothschild ; Sir Rich- 
 ard Wallace, Bart., M.P. ; Sir Francis Grant, President of 
 the Royal Academy ; Henry A. Brassey, M.P. ; Thomas 
 Hawskley, President of the British Institute of Civil En- 
 gineers, with P. Cunliffe Owen, Esq., the new head of the 
 South Kensington Museum, as Secretary. There were in 
 addition commissioners for India, for the Crown Colonies, 
 and superintendents of the colonial sections, besides special 
 committees, such as those for fine arts, horticulture, agri- 
 culture, an executive staff, juries, translators, correspond- 
 ents, and assistants. Then comes a list of the proprietors 
 of objects of fine art lent for the Vienna Exhibition, be- 
 ginning with her Majesty the Queen and the Prince of 
 Wales, including oil and water-color paintings, architec- 
 ture, sculpture and engravings, filling near four octavo 
 pages of printed matter. Following this come the ac- 
 knowledgments from the commission to a large number of 
 firms which lent certain specimens of art and manufacture 
 for use in the Vienna Exhibition. This catalogue covers 
 over six closely-printed octavo pages. The articles in- 
 cluded in the British section in Vienna in 1S73, anc ^ tne 
 dictionary of objects exhibited, including those from all 
 the British Colonies, fill one hundred and fifty pages of 
 the same volume. Succeeding these are at least fifty pages 
 of advertisements, with much more important information 
 classified and arranged with characteristic nicety and tech- 
 nicality of detail. 
 
 
OUR ADVANTAGES. 89 
 
 You will recognize from this short statement exactly what 
 the recognition of Great Britain means, and how complete 
 and extreme her demonstration will be at Philadelphia in 
 1S76. Although as I write the action of the Government 
 is not yet announced here, all interests having impatiently 
 awaited its decision for the past month, my table is literally 
 piled with applications for information, for photographs of 
 our buildings, and for various American publications. 
 
 The advantage we shall have over every other exhibition, 
 at least so far as England is concerned, is that transporta- 
 tion will not only be cheaper and safer, but that English 
 exhibitors and visitors will find themselves in a community 
 in which their own language is spoken ; and unless I mis- 
 take the character of my countrymen, they will be welcomed 
 with a warmth and generosity which they have never before 
 experienced. During the last four months my relations 
 to the Centennial have thrown me into association with 
 men of all parties and conditions, and it is simply just to 
 say that I have always been received with kindness and 
 courtesy, and have heard no word disparaging to the 
 American Government or people. The subject of our 
 Centennial is discussed in all its aspects ; our history pre- 
 vious to the Revolution ; the history of the Revolution 
 itself; the succeeding growth of our institutions, and the 
 increase of our prosperity ; our public men dead and living, 
 and all information that can be collected in regard to our 
 condition, and prospects. No one feeling has been more 
 auspicious than the almost universal desire and determina- 
 tion to visit the United States in 1876. It now remains 
 for the American people to continue and augment their 
 exertions. The ponderous British locomotive has been 
 hitched to the vast Continental train, and soon the mighty 
 procession will move to its American destination. 
 
 December, 1874. 
 
 8* 
 
9 o PARIS IN NEW YEAR'S WEEK. 
 
 XXII. 
 
 Paris in New Year's Week. — Contrasted with London. — Centennial 
 Enthusiasm. 
 
 Once more in Paris. Beautiful and attractive as this city 
 is, I confess that, without occupation, I should soon tire 
 of it. It is so different from London that the contrast is 
 constant and constantly new. Last Sunday, for instance, 
 the second day of the new year, silent and sombre in the 
 great English capital, was here a succession of fetes, of 
 course more exciting than usual because of the holidays, 
 but a fair copy of every French Sabbath for hundreds of 
 years. The weather had been fearfully cold for ten days, 
 but a sudden thaw called out the populace, who overflowed 
 the streets, cafes, and theatres. Walking along the boule- 
 vards in the evening, the crowds were as dense as they are 
 in Philadelphia or New York during some novel procession 
 or parade. The temporary booths for the display of holi- 
 day goods of inconceivable varieties, inwardly facing the 
 brilliant shops of the more wealthy and pretentious traders, 
 made a sort of avenue through which happy thousands 
 poured in ceaseless volume. Here was an orator describing 
 some new toy to the delight of his extempore audience ; 
 there a lovely woman chattering in rapid French from her 
 wooden stall the merits of a household novelty; here an 
 old crone, bronzed and wrinkled, adjusted her little pieces 
 of statuary or bijouterie while she told, in the coarse tones 
 of the lower classes of Paris, the praises and prices of her 
 wares ; while high in the air floated the little balloons and 
 danced the little figures for the children of all ages and 
 both sexes. The places of amusement were early filled ; 
 and from the circus to the opera, from the ballet to the 
 
PARIS CONTRASTED WITH LONDON. 
 
 91 
 
 vaudeville, from the bal masque to the more sober Theatre 
 Francais, there was hardly room to stand in. Society held 
 high revel in the palaces. In the cafes you could see men 
 smoking and drinking; in the upper rooms gay dresses 
 flashed through dazzling lights; all was a pageant, a vast 
 Vanity Fair, made popular by ancient custom and sanc- 
 tioned — I will not say sanctified — by the support of 
 government and sojourner. 
 
 I thought of austerer London, where you cannot get a 
 meal out of your hotel for the best part of Sunday, where 
 every restaurant is closed at midnight, and where such a 
 thing as a place of amusement is as rare on Sunday as it is 
 in Boston. The broad contrast between the two systems 
 and peoples could not be more distinctly marked. Revo- 
 lution in the one — repose in the other. Which is the 
 happier it would be hard to decide. The gayety of the 
 French and the sobriety of the English have often puzzled 
 the philosopher. The renewing struggle almost every year 
 for stable government in France is a fact not less curious 
 than the increasing wealth and comfort of her population. 
 Other nations have undoubtedly taken France, as idealized 
 in Paris, at her own estimate. They accept this gay capital 
 as the international centre of fashion and enjoyment. It is 
 the magnet that attracts all the elements of pleasure and 
 science from other countries. French habits are as fixed 
 as the fixed stars. Centuries that have changed others have 
 left them the same, and the strange fact is always apparent 
 that foreigners soon fall into or tolerate them. That they 
 enjoy them is proved by the presence of thousands from 
 other countries. Many come here to stay. You are pointed 
 to the splendid residences of the Russians, the English, the 
 Spanish, the Americans, the Italians, the Turks, the He- 
 brews, and, before the late war, the Germans were in large 
 proportions. All these come here to be pleased, and not 
 to reform the peculiarities of the people. 
 
9 2 
 
 FRANCE AND THE CENTENNIAL. 
 
 I find on my return here that the French are alive to the 
 Centennial. They regard it as the event of the age, and 
 they recall, with characteristic pride, the efficient aid of 
 Louis XVI. to the American Colonies, and the romantic 
 story of young Lafayette. The names of the French who 
 fought under the handsome Count are still fondly cherished. 
 Franklin's sojourn in Paris is spoken of as worthy of historic 
 revival, and also that of Jefferson; the sale of Louisiana by 
 Napoleon I. in 1804, under President Jefferson's adminis- 
 tration, is again discussed in high quarters; and all this 
 supplemented by the statistics of the growth of both nations 
 and the valuable trade between them. Our minister, Mr. 
 Washburne, takes a lively interest in the work, and is 
 heartily aided by Consul-General Torbert. France accepted 
 the President's invitation several months ago, and will, I 
 am quite sure, take further steps to give efficiency to that 
 act and emphasis to her unbroken devotion to the American 
 Government and people. 
 
 January, 1875. 
 
 XXIII. 
 
 Louis Blanc. — The National Assembly in Session. — Versailles and Wash- 
 ington. 
 
 Marshal McMahon is the Septennial President of a 
 Septennial Republic, elected in 1873 by the National As- 
 sembly for seven years. The question now before the 
 French people is whether they shall elect a new Assembly, 
 or whether it shall stand, like the Marshal, until 1880, and 
 it is this question which now excites France throughout all 
 its borders. There have been several changes of the Cab- 
 inet since the choice of the Marshal-President, and a few 
 
VERSAILLES. 93 
 
 days after my arrival in Paris another took place. I was 
 anxious to hear the questions discussed. I was therefore 
 most grateful to my friend, M. Louis Blanc, a member 
 of the Assembly, for the two cards which admitted my 
 daughter and myself to two good seats in the theatre at 
 Versailles in which the sessions of the Assembly are now 
 held. 
 
 A few words about M. Louis Blanc. He is about the 
 size of the lamented Stephen A. Douglas, is over sixty 
 years old, with very black hair, a pleasant and compar- 
 atively youthful countenance. He speaks English with an 
 excellent pronunciation, and we in America should never 
 forget him for his ardent support of the Union cause 
 during the war. 
 
 Versailles is about eleven miles west of Paris, and a 
 beautiful ride it is. When we took our seats in the cars, the 
 Deputies from Paris, each with a portfolio under his arm, 
 were coming in. It was an exquisite day, after two weeks 
 of severe cold. In our carriage were several Deputies, 
 one of whom had the proofs of a report, or a speech, with 
 the marks of the printer. Reaching Versailles, and follow- 
 ing a procession of dignitaries under a beautiful alcove of 
 trees, freshly cut and trimmed for the coming spring, and 
 along a beautiful walk, we finally got to the National As- 
 sembly, one of the dependencies of the Palace, called the 
 Salle de Spectacle, in the Rue des Reservoirs. It is a 
 theatre larger and better arranged than that in our Walnut 
 Street, but with a poor entrance. We ascended to our seats 
 in the third tier by long stone stairs, and I wondered how 
 in case of fire the audience would be disgorged. When we 
 got into our places and looked down upon the seven hun- 
 dred and fifty members, after infinite pressure, I could not 
 help recalling the magnificent accommodations of the Con- 
 gressional halls in Washington. All the tiers and the boxes 
 were filled with well-dressed people, except the diplomatic 
 
94 
 
 THE NA TIONAL ASSEMBL V IN SESSION. 
 
 gallery. A great debate was expected. There was a full at- 
 tendance of members, and with our printed programme we 
 could see by the number marked opposite each name the 
 several celebrities. Ex-President Thiers was evidently not 
 in his place, but we saw our kind host, Louis Blanc, with 
 his black gloves, and our dear friend, Laboulaye, with his 
 long, thin hair ; the dark-complexioned Jules Favre, Gen- 
 eral Changarnier, and many, many more. 
 
 The session opened by the ringing of a bell. There was 
 no prayer. There were no soldiers, unless a few gendarmes 
 here and there might be so called, and there was a pleas- 
 ing decorum. At the slightest confusion subordinates 
 enforced silence. The word sounded like hush, and in its 
 effect was instantaneous. All the officers of the House on 
 the floor wore steel chains around their neck and small 
 swords at their sides, in which guise they distributed letters 
 and documents. The President, M. Buffet, was exceed- 
 ingly graceful and articulate. Every member spoke from 
 a tribune very like the reporters' desk before the Speaker 
 of our House or the President of our Senate, only higher 
 and farther off; in fact, a sort of prolonged pulpit, allow- 
 ing the orator to walk up and down. There was no vio- 
 lent debate on the situation, and one gentleman who began 
 with a clamor of objections toiled through an hour of tedi- 
 ous iteration. As he labored on, I mused upon the legis- 
 lators of this grand empire. How many bald heads, how 
 many bowed backs, how many care-worn countenances ! 
 In the whole body I think I did not see twenty full heads 
 of hair. I knew there were princes and dukes and counts 
 and magnates of high degree, but really in the long run 
 they did not seem to be half so superior a class as the men 
 I have seen in our Congress at Washington for the last 
 chirty years. 
 
 The creditable thing was the entire absence of foppery 
 of dre^s and manner. Not one of them looked to the 
 
L YONS. 
 
 95 
 
 gallery, as is the bad habit of many in Washington. There 
 were no pages on the floor, no loud displays of stationery 
 and books, and not a lobbyist in the gallery. We retired 
 before the debate was closed, and walked quietly down the 
 long avenue of trees to the railroad station, our time not 
 allowing us to linger among the thousand tragical and his- 
 torical associations around us. We returned by the evening 
 train to Paris, thanking M. Louis Blanc for a pleasant day 
 at Versailles. It was a delightful ride home, made not less 
 agreeable by the fact that we expected to see the French 
 Assembly in a great uproar, and found it as decorous and 
 quiet as an American Congress when it has no personal 
 quarrels on hand. 
 Paris, January, 1875. 
 
 XXIV. 
 
 Lyons.— French Railway Travel. — Underpaid Foreign Labor. 
 
 A city older than the Csesars, which claims an origin 
 five hundred years before Christ, abounding in archaeologi- 
 cal relics, and in itself a history of religious and political 
 revolutions for the last two thousand years, is a volume 
 open to the student in which he may read the records of 
 the ages in many a stormy chapter. Such is Lyons, a delta 
 between the two lovely rivers, the Rhone and the Saone. 
 Lyons is distant from Paris three hundred and seventeen 
 miles. We left Paris at eleven a.m., and reached here at 
 half-past ten p.m. We studied the appearance and man- 
 ners of our fellow-passengers. 
 
 A Frenchman talks as rapidly with his hands and shoul- 
 ders as with his mouth, and it is sometimes difficult to tell 
 which is the most expressive. There was a fine old Cath- 
 
96 FRENCH RAILWAY TRAVEL. 
 
 olic priest, with a figure like Archbishop Wood and a face 
 like Shelton Mackenzie, who alternately devoured the pages 
 of the Revue de Monde and discussed politics with his 
 neighbor. There was a tall blonde Parisian, who consumed 
 columns of the morning papers, and was intensely delighted 
 when I told him that the lady in my company would not 
 mind if he smoked his cigarette, especially when I proved 
 my selfishness by lighting my own cigar at his match. 
 There was a young officer who incontinently went to 
 sleep. 
 
 After leaving Paris, were the white villages and white 
 roads, the women in the gardens and fields, the tall, slim 
 poplars, the utter absence of heavy timber, and the evident 
 sterility of the soil, judged by prolonged chalky develop- 
 ment, and yet everywhere economy and productiveness. 
 Soon came the vineyards in their firstlings, every hillock 
 covered. After a while we rushed past country villages that 
 seemed to have been planted by the Romans. Arrived at 
 Dijon, a sort of Altoona on the great line between Paris and 
 Marseilles, we stopped half an hour for a four-franc dinner 
 (about eighty cents of our money), clean, comfortable, 
 good, and plentiful, a bottle of red wine for every two 
 guests, excellent soup, fresh salmon with Mayonnaise sauce, 
 beef a la mode, chicken and salad, delightful spinach dressed 
 in butter, confitures of rice, and a mild cream cheese. 
 There was no hurry and no confusion — in fact, the whole 
 cuisine deserved translation to my own country as one of 
 the many things we might profitably imitate. 
 
 In this long ride from Paris to Lyons, we saw the con- 
 ductor but once, when he came to inspect our tickets at 
 Lyons. There is this to be said in favor of the foreign 
 carriages— the passenger can always rest his head. In this 
 long run I prefer the American railway system, with its 
 cheaper fares and facilities for intercourse on the trains; 
 but it is an inexpressible relief to rest the entire body. 
 
L YONS 
 
 97 
 
 under the plan of England, France, and Italy. Even our 
 luxurious palace cars do not boast of this advantage. 
 
 As we emerged from the Hotel de l'Europe next morning 
 into the broad light of Southern France, Lyons was a 
 wondrous revelation to our American eyes. We felt that 
 we were approaching Italy, with its early luxuriance and 
 cheering sunshine. The whole town was astir. The open 
 squares; the French bonnes in their white caps, tending 
 the little children; the fountains playing, the grass already 
 green in the parks, and the distant hills, beautiful in their 
 centuried buildings, hidden in a sort of Oriental mist, gave 
 to the place a mysterious aspect. It was Paris over again, 
 and yet not Paris. If you stand on the banks of the Rhone, 
 the first thing that attracts you is the startling architecture 
 on the hill where the workingmen live, which rises street 
 above street, very much like the weird Pennsylvania town 
 of Mauch Chunk ; and if you stand on the banks of the 
 other river, the Saone, you are again startled by what is 
 called Old Lyons, which seems to hang on the side of 
 the other elevation, beautifully crested witli magnificent 
 churches and public buildings. Between these two rivers 
 and hills stretches the business part of the city, with its 
 boulevards, public offices, theatres, churches, museum, 
 Bourse-Exchange, palatial hotels, etc., a rich delta, indeed, 
 full of romance, revolution, enterprise, and money. 
 
 But to me the most interesting sight was the study of the 
 great silk and velvet industry, famous all over the world, 
 and so I sought the first opportunity to visit the renowned 
 establishment of Carquittat, and personally to observe the 
 process by which these exquisite and costly fineries are 
 produced. The general plan closely resembles the carpet- 
 weaving which I saw at Crossley's, in Halifax, England, in 
 1867, and at Rochdale, last summer, with John Bright as 
 my kind interpreter; but the manner of weaving the silks 
 and velvets at Lyons is much slower and more tedious. 
 e 9 
 
98 L YONS SILK MANUFACTURES. 
 
 You have heard of the superb portraits and landscapes 
 woven on silk by these Lyons artists; they almost rival the 
 matchless tapestries at Windsor Castle. As we entered the 
 show-room of the director, quite a collection of likenesses, 
 so produced, looked down upon us from the walls; — Mar- 
 shal-President McMahon, ex-President Thiers, Napoleon 
 III. and the Empress Eugenie; Pedro, King of Portugal, 
 in his youth ; Pope Pius IX. ; Jacquard, inventor of the silk- 
 loom, born in Lyons in 1752; and over all a marvellous 
 portrait of George Washington. And as if to prove the 
 veneration with which the father of our new country is 
 cherished in this beautiful metropolis, one of the oldest 
 communities in the Old World, directly under his silken 
 picture are the following words woven in English, taken 
 from one of Washington's public papers; they are signifi- 
 cant at a time when the spirit of sceptical unbelief seems to 
 have acquired a new force among the European people: 
 
 " Of all the dispositions and habits which lead to political prosperity, 
 religion and morality are indispensable supports. In vain would that man 
 claim the tribute of patriotism who should labor to subvert these great 
 pillars of human happiness, these firmest props of the duties of men and 
 citizens. The mere politician, equally with the pious man, ought to respect 
 and cherish them. 
 
 "George Washington." 
 
 But the pleasure of the visit did not stop here. " I have 
 got something else to show you, my American friend," said 
 the manager; upon which he unrolled an almost-speaking 
 likeness of Abraham Lincoln. I thought I could do nothing 
 better than to purchase three silken portraits of the same 
 size — one of Washington, one of Lincoln, and one of 
 Jacquard, and to preserve them as another humble deposit 
 in the National Museum at Independence Hall. 
 
 The silk manufactures of Lyons were begun in 1450 by 
 the Italian refugees who fled here from religious persecu- 
 tions. They are claimed to be superior to the English 
 
UNDERPAID FOREIGN LABOR. 
 
 99 
 
 work, and are produced twenty-five per cent, cheaper ; but 
 it is asserted that the hotfte-loom weavers, of which there 
 are thirty-one thousand in Lyons, are much worse off than 
 the weavers of Spitalfields, in the east of London. There 
 are really no great factories here. The work is done in 
 humble homes and by individual looms. The employer 
 simply buys the raw material, and gives it out to be woven 
 by the weavers in their own rooms. He has one artist to 
 produce the patterns, and another to lay them out and 
 prepare them for the weaver. These poor people live in a 
 very humble way, and get very poor wages. I could not 
 collect the data to prove this assertion, but watched one 
 workman at his loom weaving a piece of superb velvet, and 
 saw how slowly and carefully he proceeded, and when the 
 price of the fabric was given I could easily see how little 
 was left for him. 
 
 Most of these people live in the suburb called the Croix 
 Russe — the Faubourg St. Antoine of Lyons — in densely 
 narrow streets, as many as twelve and twenty families being 
 piled one above the other in the lofty houses. They are 
 said to be always ready to break into revolution; and so, 
 of the eighteen heavy forts within a circle of twelve miles 
 around the town, the guns of several bear directly down 
 upon the quarters occupied by the workers in silk and vel- 
 vet. It must be said to the credit of both sides that there 
 is an organization in Lyons, composed half of masters and 
 half of workmen, called the "Concile des Prudhommes," 
 which has done great good, and might be safely introduced 
 into other countries. Its province is to settle all disputes 
 between the employer and the employed on the subject of 
 wages, and to promote a spirit of mutual conciliation and 
 concession. 
 
 LYONS, January, 1875. 
 
ioo LYONS TO MARSEILLES. 
 
 i 
 XXV. 
 
 Lyons to Marseilles. — The Chateau d'If. 
 
 From Lyons to Marseilles (two hundred and twenty 
 miles) you traverse a region full of strange sights, his- 
 tory, and tradition. The whole route was instinct with 
 ancient recollections and modern progress. At Vienne, 
 twenty miles from Lyons, there is a depository of Roman 
 ruins — the temple of Augustus — which has been " restored" 
 and utilized as a museum, and other interesting antiquities. 
 The Roman emperor banished Pontius Pilate to Vienne. 
 Three-quarters of an hour ahead, "Hermitage," the favor- 
 ite wine of Napoleon I., and the best produced on the 
 Rhone, is grown, and a few miles farther on the sparkling 
 "St. Peray," claimed to be ''purer than champagne." 
 Mont Blanc is visible on a clear day, seventy-five miles 
 distant. Beautiful and bizarre is the venerable city of 
 Avignon, one hundred and forty miles from Lyons. How 
 strange to read that it had a population in 1664 of 80,000, 
 while in 1864 it had but 40,000 ! Here, from 1305 to 1370, 
 seven Roman pontiffs lived ; here Petrarch lived ; here 
 Rienzi was confined after his fall at Rome ; and here the 
 citizens shot by the revolutionists of 1789 were flung, some 
 half slain and struggling, into its "Glaciers" and stifled 
 with quick-lime. On the top of the palace there is a gilt 
 statue of the Virgin. 
 
 At last, through one of the longest tunnels in France 
 (three miles long ; time of passage, six minutes), we 
 emerge into a dazzling view of the Mediterranean and 
 Marseilles. The outside view of Marseilles is Moorish 
 and Italian ; some of the houses partake of the Sara- 
 cenic style, but Italy is evidently struggling with France. 
 
 
MARSEILLES. io i 
 
 Already, near the close of January, the vegetation in the 
 gardens, the primroses in the windows, the violets every- 
 where offered for sale and grown in the open air show, in- 
 deed, that we are passing from "lands of snow to lands of 
 sun." 
 
 There is as much difference between Lyons and Mar- 
 seilles as between Manchester and Liverpool. The one 
 is the seat of manufactures, the other of commerce, and, 
 although I saw little of either, yet I think the advantage is 
 in favor of Marseilles. In its broad streets, that after- 
 noon, the populace seemed to be out in holiday attire. 
 The evening was exquisite, and the peculiar odor of the 
 sea and the strange multitude about us told us that we were 
 on the shores of the blue Mediterranean and in another of 
 those ancient cities subjected to the Roman rule half a cen- 
 tury before the Christian era. On the Prado the people 
 were out for the evening promenade, while on the boule. 
 vard by the sea we passed numbers of splendid equipages 
 and light wagons carried along by fast horses. The sun 
 was just descending, and we could see across the level 
 waters numerous little boats, filled with gay pleasure-par- 
 ties, and outgoing and incoming ships, which relieved the 
 twilight hush : also the Chateau dTf, the scene of Dumas' 
 "Monte Christo," the quarantine grounds, the prisons, 
 while the dark mountain on which they are located grew 
 darker and darker as the shades of night came on. 
 
 Marseilles, January, 1875. 
 
 9* 
 
CANNES. 
 
 XXVI. 
 
 Cannes. — Scenery and Climate. — Lord Brougham's Chateau and Tomb. 
 
 The incomparable ride from Marseilles to Cannes de- 
 serves a more elaborate description than I can now write. 
 Directly after leaving the beautiful Mediterranean metrop- 
 olis the orange-trees, olives, palms, and cactus-plants began 
 to appear; then came Toulon, the Plymouth of France, 
 with its vast fortified dock-yards, fronting the sea, and 
 Fort Napoleon, otherwise called Petit Gibraltar, which the 
 young subaltern Bonaparte in 1793 compelled the English, 
 who had been admitted into the town by the French loy- 
 alists, to evacuate, and so earned the first distinction which 
 gave him final command of this great Empire, and made 
 him the temporary master of Europe. Between Toulon 
 and Hyeres the train passed through a country exquisitely 
 cultivated. There were miles of olive vineyards, fig-trees, 
 mulberries, and the luxuriant hills were clothed with pines. 
 Here begins the splendid orange growth, and though we 
 are in the month of January the golden fruit is already 
 shining in the gardens and from the garden walls. All the 
 intermediate stations were surrounded with the same char- 
 acteristics, Roman remains, tropical flowers and fruits, and 
 an equal and delightful climate. Cannes, however, seems 
 to profit by the preference of foreigners. 
 
 Cannes has become a favorite winter sea-side resort, and 
 may be said to have been discovered by the late Lord 
 Brougham. On his way to Italy, in 1S34, he was forced to 
 stop here — a fatal epidemic preventing him from crossing 
 the frontier, and he was so much pleased with the climate 
 and the productions of the soil that he built a residence in 
 
LORD BROUGHAM'S CHATEAU. 
 
 103 
 
 Cannes, which he visited in every succeeding winter, and 
 here he died on the 7th of May, 186S. A massive stone 
 cross, bearing his name, the date of his birth, and the day 
 of his death, marks the grave of a statesman who united 
 the rare qualities of orator, statesman, lawyer, historian, 
 biographer, and essayist. 
 
 To an American a place like this, so lovely and so placid, 
 is a novelty compared with the dash and heat of a water- 
 ing-place at home. At night especially it is as silent as 
 Goldsmith's " Deserted Village." There are few or no 
 amusements, no drinking-houses, no balls or parties ; but 
 there is that admirable police which you find everywhere 
 in these French towns. In a week or two the whole neigh- 
 borhood will be in bloom, and the sky is so clear, the air is 
 so pure, that I should think an invalid must soon recover 
 his health after a (c\v weeks' residence. Here, again, an- 
 cient and modern history teach us their double lessons. 
 Near by are the lies de Lerins, especially St. Marguerite, 
 noted as once having been the prison of the Man in the 
 Iron Mask, and lately of Marshal Bazaine; while a short 
 distance from the town is the place where Napoleon Bona- 
 parte landed from Elba in 1815. 
 
 Lord Brougham's residence, called the Chateau Eleonore 
 Louise, after this daughter, who died in 1839, is a villa in 
 the Italian style, the main building of two high stories, 
 with two wings, the material of the peculiar French white 
 and buff, the armorial bearings of his house in the broad 
 front, and the whole spacious and commanding, yet unpre- 
 tending and plain. We were admitted by the concierge, 
 who told us that the house was unoccupied and to let for 
 six weeks, and that Lord Brougham left no sons, but several 
 daughters, (!). The approach to the mansion was through 
 a thick orange-grove, the fruit already half ripe, and the 
 trees coming up to the broad, white steps leading to the 
 main portico, whence you see the ocean, blue, calm, and 
 
io4 
 
 LORD BROUGHAM'S TOMB. 
 
 sparkling in the warm sunshine of a day like May in 
 America ; the dark rocks projecting from the shore on the 
 right, which half formed the bay of Napoule, rising in 
 their respective ranges, each assuming a different shade in 
 this delicious atmosphere, and the distant shore of the op- 
 posite curve, with its white houses glittering in the bright 
 afternoon, made altogether a scene wondrous fair. In the 
 right wing is the dining-room, in which, doubtless, the 
 venerable master had often entertained his guests. 
 
 The sea, the air, the sky, the climate, and the scenery, 
 existed long before Brougham came to enjoy them, but the 
 influence of his name did much to attract attention to this 
 place, and to make it the fashion among the multitudes 
 always trying to escape the rigors of winter and to prolong 
 their lives. Undoubtedly he did much to modernize, 
 or rather to Anglicize, Cannes. There are four English 
 churches (three Episcopalian and one Presbyterian) in this 
 French town of ten thousand people. English newspapers 
 are in all the hotels, and our hotel is occupied almost en- 
 tirely by English and Americans. The shop-keepers are 
 happiest when they can attract English and Americans by 
 a clerk who can talk our language. The servants aspire 
 to the same distinction, and there is an Anglo-American 
 circus in the great square here on Sunday evening. 
 
 In the cemetery, the tomb of Henry Brougham towers 
 kinglike among his dead countrypeople. His monument 
 is a plain gray marble slab — broad and massive — surmounted 
 by a heavy cross above six feet in height, upon which are 
 cut only his name and the dates of his birth and death, 
 all in Latin. 
 
 Cannes, January, 1875. * 
 
NICE. 
 
 I°5 
 
 XXVII. 
 
 Nice.— Thronged with Citizens of the World. — Unforgetting Patriots. 
 
 It can readily be believed how bitterly Garibaldi, who 
 was born in Nice, must have bewailed its surrender to 
 France under the treaty of Villafranca in i860, for a love- 
 lier spot never came more fully finished from the hands of 
 Nature, and never was more gracefully adorned by the 
 genius of man. It has a settled population of sixty thousand, 
 increased by annual visitors during the winter and early 
 spring to eighty thousand; being situated on the Mediter- 
 ranean, with a splendid background of hills, more than one 
 hundred miles off, clearly visible on a cloudless day, it 
 seems to lie in a crescent, unvisited by fogs and rarely by 
 clouds, its valleys clothed with olive-, orange-, fig-, and 
 lemon-trees, with here and there the palm and the pine. 
 This is the 10th of February, but the flora is already exu- 
 berant. 
 
 Nice was an early and a principal Italian city, and bore 
 alternate disaster and fortune. Its climate attracted the 
 early Roman families, bu-t imperial favor could not save it 
 from successive centuries of barbarian invasions. To-day 
 Nice is, in fact, the living evidence of English energy, 
 French genius, and Italian co-operation — the robust result 
 of all these elements. From 1S15, when she was given 
 to Austria, down to i860, when she was taken from Austria 
 and given back to France, her best capabilities were com- 
 paratively unutilized, but when Louis Napoleon got pos- 
 session he introduced his wonderful modern inspiration 
 into all her institutions, and attracted here that English 
 element which, with its cultivated tastes and enormous 
 wealth, is doing so much to bring into modern use and 
 
 E* 
 
106 UNF0RGETT1NG PATRIOTS. 
 
 pleasure the beautiful French and Italian cities of the Med- 
 iterranean. 
 
 Nowhere else is there to be found such a variety of phys- 
 iognomies, and manners, and costumes. Foreign princes 
 and potentates, now and then a king, or a queen; the ver- 
 satile Frenchman, the olive Italian, the silent Turk, the 
 blonde German, the picturesque Tyrolean, of course the 
 American, but over all and beyond all, the Englishman. 
 He runs from the London fog and damp early in Novem- 
 ber, and entrenches himself at Cannes and Nice, at Men- 
 tone and St. Reno, and among the old villas and palaces 
 in and near Genoa, and Florence, and Naples, and Milan, 
 and Turin, and Venice, and stays there until the season 
 opens in London, — about May, — when he returns ready for 
 the society of town and country, abundantly satisfied with 
 his exertions during his Italian campaign. The English 
 promenade in Nice is more than a mile in length. Its 
 growth has been most considerable since 1862, after the 
 annexation of Savoy to France. This boulevard is lined 
 with a succession of beautiful villas and hotels, and from 
 two o'clock in the afternoon to a little before sunset the 
 drive is thronged with promenaders and carriages from 
 every part of the world. It is very pleasant to meet in 
 Nice many Americans who came here young and have 
 grown old — some of them grandfathers and grandmothers, 
 and yet never forgetting their country. As I have repeatedly 
 said, there is no object more contemptible than a man or a 
 woman ashamed of the place that gave him or her birth, 
 and so it is something more than satisfying to meet the 
 men and women who left the United States thirty and 
 forty years ago — to marry in the Old World — and whose 
 eyes glisten with pride as they say that they are coming to 
 join us in celebrating the Centennial in Philadelphia in 
 1876. 
 
 Nice, February, 1875. 
 
GAMBLERS AT MONACO. 
 
 107 
 
 XXVIII. 
 
 Gamblers at Monaco. — Genoa. — Relics of Columbus. — The Bank of St. 
 George. 
 
 Public gambling, driven from Germany by Emperor 
 William, has found a home in Monaco, within forty min- 
 utes' ride of Nice. This principality, one of the smallest 
 in Europe, has been the property of the Grimaldi family 
 since the year 968. Its Prince had permitted the profes- 
 sional gamblers to settle, on payment of a heavy rent, at 
 Monte Carlo, the beautiful suburb of Monaco, its little 
 capital, which seemed to crown the crest of a volcanic hill, 
 the path to which was a broad easy granite stair. We fol- 
 lowed the talking crowd, and soon reached the top, to find 
 ourselves in the midst of a scene unspeakably enchanting. 
 It seemed rather a paradise for the worship of the beautiful 
 than a rendezvous for the gamester. 
 
 The burst of music attracts us to the Casino, and we fol- 
 low the crowd into a large and highly ornamented build- 
 ing, with a classic exterior, an imposing entrance, broad 
 high hall, with, floors like glass, and an air of somewhat 
 pretentious gentility. We enter, and find ourselves in a 
 handsome and crowded concert-room, an orchestra of sixty 
 performers playing the overture to "La Prophete." On 
 presentation of a card, easily obtained at the bureau, on 
 stating names and nation, we enter the gaming-house 
 proper, consisting of two rooms, each almost as large as the 
 foyer of the Academy of Music of Philadelphia. There 
 are four tables, each about the size of a very large billiard- 
 table, covered with green — two dedicated to roulette and 
 two to cards. There is a crowd around them all, intense 
 
lo8 GENOA. 
 
 and quiet. The men seem to prefer the game with cards, 
 the women the hazard of the wheel. 
 
 I am glad to say that, with a few exceptions, only old 
 women played at Monte Carlo when I was there. The 
 younger females were evidently rather disposed for display 
 than for success, but there were several desperate game- 
 sters. One old man and one old woman, each with rou- 
 leaus of napoleons, risked them with a cool decision which 
 proved them to be practiced hands. One young French- 
 man literally poured his gold upon the table, and lost it, 
 and a blue-eyed English boy got rid of his Bank-of-Eng- 
 land notes with a rapidity that proved, I hope, either that 
 he had come for a lesson and had got it, or that he had 
 plenty of the same sort to throw away without injuring 
 anybody but himself. 
 
 From Nice to Genoa, a distance of one hundred and 
 twenty-three miles, over ten hours by the railway, through 
 many tunnels. Very naturally, the first thing an American 
 looks for in Genoa is something about Christopher Colum- 
 bus, claimed to be native here, but believed to have been 
 born at the little village of Cogoleto, which we pass about 
 half an hour distant on our way from Nice. I have just 
 inspected several interesting memorials of the great dis- 
 coverer, the first being his portrait in Mosaic in the Muni- 
 cipal Palace. It faces an equally exquisite companion 
 Mosaic portrait of Marco Polo, presented at the same time 
 to Genoa in honor of the same event and by the same 
 city. These splendid productions are about five feet square, 
 and the delicate tracery of all the features, the colors of 
 flesh and costume, the anatomy of the hands, and the easy 
 pose of the figures, fairly rival the master-efforts of the 
 great painters. It is, in fact, painting portraits with jewels, 
 and these are specimens of modern Venetian genius. In 
 another hall, the kind custodian was so good as to unlock 
 a little brass door in a pedestal surmounted by a marble 
 
RELICS OF COLUMBUS. 
 
 ioo 
 
 bust of Columbus, from which he drew several manuscripts, 
 one of them an autograph letter of Columbus to the Bank 
 of St. George in relation to his deposits in that four-cen- 
 turied institution. This letter was addressed to the pro- 
 tectors of the bank shortly after the discovery of America. 
 In it he states that though absent in body he is present in 
 spirit ; that the Lord has conferred greater favor upon him 
 than upon any one after David ; that the King and Queen 
 [Ferdinand and Isabella, of Spain] wish to honor him 
 more than ever, and that his undertakings are meeting with 
 brilliant success; that he is about to embark for the Indies 
 in the name of the Holy Trinity, with a view of returning 
 immediately, but since he is mortal, he desires to make 
 some disposition of his interest in the funds of the bank in 
 favor of his son, D. Diego. Then follow his instructions 
 to the directors — then a long list of his titles as admiral, 
 viceroy, governor-general, captain-general, and then his 
 simple signature, Christo-ferens (Christ-bearing). To this 
 letter to the bank Columbus received no answer, and he 
 addressed them another, to which the directors made a 
 formal and most humble reply. Turning over the vellum 
 pages of another sacred deposit, I found the commission 
 of Ferdinand and Isabella to the great admiral, in ancient 
 Spanish, and other curious contemporaneous documents 
 written in imperishable characters with illuminated borders, 
 one of them a Papal bull dividing the discovered regions 
 of the earth, by an imaginary line across the ocean, between 
 Spain and Portugal. How mysterious and yet how instruc- 
 tive these lessons, when Spain dominated the Western 
 world and began that career of glory which may be said to 
 close with the island of Cuba ! 
 
 A few years ago an American Frenchman, Admiral David 
 Farragut, steamed with his squadron into this very harbor 
 of Genoa — La Superba — and was entertained by this mu- 
 nicipality in the magnificent council-chamber to which I 
 
 10 
 
no THE BANK OF ST. GEORGE. 
 
 have referred, between the two Mosaic pictures of Marco 
 Polo and Christopher Columbus. Next day the Genoese 
 authorities presented him with photographs of the original 
 letters of Christopher Columbus, and I am not without 
 hopes of being able to secure copies for the National Mu- 
 seum in Independence Hall. 
 
 Nothing in La Superba Genoa is a more valuable study 
 than the old custom-house, or, as it is called, the Dogana. 
 It is directly on the harbor, and the building was the old 
 Bank of St. George, one of the most successful and singu- 
 lar moneyed institutions in human history. I visited it 
 because I had read Macaulay's description of it. When 
 we entered the porters were busy receiving boxes of goods 
 and bales of merchandise, and the clerks, the majority of 
 whom were of the fairer sex, were busy in making the 
 entries. The great marble staircase leading to the grand 
 council-chamber of the old bank is now worn into deep 
 channels by busy merchants. Solemn, dark, and dusty 
 are the crumbling relics of the past. A number of grimy 
 statues look down from their gloomy niches, intended to 
 represent the citizens who left legacies to the Genoese 
 Republic or to benevolent enterprise in shares of the 
 bank, for which every such benefactor was rewarded with 
 a memorial in marble. 
 
 The powers wielded by this institution from 1345 to 
 1797, when the example of the French revolution roused 
 the people of the whole Continent against all special privi- 
 leges, and led to its overthrow, read just now like some 
 fairy-tale. To use the words of Mr. O. M. Spencer, Amer- 
 ican consul here, " Foreign capitalists became its deposit- 
 ors, sovereign princes its creditors, moribund millionaires 
 remembered it munificently in their legacies, while fire, 
 plague, and pestilence, by diminishing its liabilities, aug- 
 mented its resources. It was not then simply a banking- 
 house, exercising the ordinary functions of a bank of 
 
THE BANK OF ST. GEORGE. IIX 
 
 deposit, exchange, and circulation. It coined money, 
 constructed dock-yards, improved harbors, built bonded 
 warehouses, monasteries, churches, public bake-shops, and 
 ducal palaces. It erected fortifications and manned them ; 
 it constructed galleys and equipped them ; it acquired pro- 
 vinces and governed them. It was a savings bank, a sink- 
 ing fund, a revenue office ; and as a prototype of the East 
 India Company, a politico-commercial oligarchy that made 
 warlike merchants and engaged in commerce like sultans." 
 Mr. Spencer goes on to describe the increasing influence 
 of this mighty corporation, its successful management of 
 the public debt of Genoa, its reduction of the public bur- 
 dens, the economy and integrity of its management, its 
 absorption of the duties and excises in return for the loan 
 of its credit, its gradual possession of the colonies of the 
 Republic, its perfect tranquillity in war. But the French 
 revolution closed it out forever. The Government resumed 
 its sovereignty, the bank lost its credit with its preroga- 
 tives, the discovery of the Cape of Good Hope had trans- 
 ferred the commercial supremacy of Europe to England, 
 and the commerce of Genoa became the shadow of its 
 former greatness. 
 
 GENOA, February, 1875. 
 
112 ITALIAN RAILWAYS. 
 
 XXIX. 
 
 Italian Railways. — American Artists in Florence. — Sculpture. 
 
 Winter seems at last to have wrapped all Europe in its 
 icy chains. After leaving the smiling and sunny fields of 
 Southern France, and basking in the rich luxuriance of St. 
 Remo, we met the cold blasts of Northern Italy, first at 
 Genoa, where we took the train for Florence, two hundred 
 and ninety miles distant, which we reach in a little more 
 than thirteen hours. The skill and patience displayed in 
 the construction of the three or four great Italian railways 
 show that the Government and people, although immensely 
 aided by French and English experience and money, are 
 not unworthy descendants of the great men who built the 
 splendid Roman roads centuries ago, the remains of which 
 to-day excite our admiration and amazement. They seem 
 to have been laid down as if to last forever ; and the sur- 
 prising smoothness and ease with which the carriages are 
 run, the absence of all noise or confusion or rudeness in 
 the management, are not the least among the pleasures of 
 the traveller. 
 
 Modern art, after Rome, finds its best expression in Flor- 
 ence; and he must be dull indeed who, contrasting the past 
 with the present, remains unaffected by the superb originals 
 of the old masters and the ambitious efforts of their living 
 successors. Very naturally, an American promptly seeks 
 information in regard to the artists of his own country, 
 sensible, and sometimes sensitive, that the United States 
 are far in the rear in comparison with other nations. 
 
 It was very pleasant, in company with my friend, Mr. 
 James L. Graham, American consul in Florence, to visit 
 
 
AMERICAN ARTISTS IN FLORENCE. 
 
 n 3 
 
 most of the American studios. I do not wish to indulge 
 in a wearying description of what I saw, and much less 
 in extravagant praise of the artists, all of them already- 
 familiar by their works in their native country. Of one 
 hundred and sixty painters, all are Italians with the ex- 
 ception of three Americans, Messrs. J. L. Craig, Walter 
 Gould, and Edwin White, and a few Germans and French- 
 men. It is among the sculptors that the Americans take a 
 leading part. The sculptors number about ninety. We 
 have Thomas Ball of Boston, P. F. Connelly of Phila- 
 delphia, Thomas R. Gould of Boston, J. T. Hart of 
 Kentucky, J. Jackson of Connecticut, Larkin G. Mead 
 of Vermont, H. R. Park, Preston Powers, son of the late 
 Hiram Powers, and William G. Turner. A visit to their 
 respective studios strikingly revealed their genius and their 
 energy. 
 
 In Mr. Ball's studio we saw the colossal model of his 
 Edwin Forrest as Coriolanus, his statues of John A. Andrew 
 of Massachusetts, Charles Sumner and Edward Everett, 
 and the large group representing Lincoln Freeing the Slave, 
 ordered and paid for by the colored people of the District 
 of Columbia, and to be placed by them at or near the 
 nation's capital. The studio of Mr. P. F. Connelly con- 
 tained many exquisite pieces, and especially the models 
 and finished busts of some of the English nobility, also the 
 preliminaries of a magnificent fountain, which is to include 
 specimens of the genius of several of the leading Italian 
 artists, and is intended to be the crowning effort of his life. 
 Mr. Connelly is the nephew of the late Mr. Harry Con- 
 nelly, of Philadelphia. This promising artist is but thirty- 
 three, and has not seen his native country for many years, 
 yet has a most vivid recollection of his friends in Phila- 
 delphia. Mr. Hart's studio was interesting as a collection 
 of the old statesmen of America — Mr. Clay, Mr. Critten- 
 den, Mr. Wickliffe, and others. In Mr. Jackson's studio 
 
 10* 
 
H4 SCULPTURE. 
 
 we found several familiar faces, and an exquisite Eve, the 
 original of which is now in possession of William G. Moor- 
 head, Esq., West Philadelphia. Mr. Larkin G. Mead has 
 a very large establishment, and was the successful competi- 
 tor for the great Lincoln monument, with its numerous 
 groups and devices, formally dedicated a few months ago at 
 Springfield, 111., and for which, it is said, he received two 
 hundred and fifty thousand dollars. Apart from the other 
 subjects in these rooms, all of them exhibiting culture and 
 originality, was a fine head of Justin S. Morrill, United 
 States Senator from Vermont. The Powers' studio was 
 singularly interesting, and the immense variety of models 
 and copies of memorable statues and groups revived the 
 love and veneration of our people for the famous founder, 
 the late Hiram Powers. Here was the model of the origi- 
 nal Greek Slave ; also, a statue of Webster, full of expres- 
 sion and dignity, now in Boston; also, Edward Everett, 
 General Jackson, copies of many well-known works now 
 in America, and a successful bust of Sumner, modelled in 
 the Capitol in Washington a few weeks after the death of 
 the beloved tribune by Mr. Preston Powers, the successor 
 of his father. 
 
 I do not pretend to convey more than an idea of the 
 patient industry and honorable ambition of these our artists 
 in Florence, nor to enumerate the manner in which they 
 have perpetuated many famous characters in our history. 
 Here were Franklin, Washington, Jefferson, Jackson, John 
 Quincy Adams, Webster, Whittier, Ethan Allen, Agassiz, 
 Lincoln, Longfellow, Sumner, Bellows, Everett, Marshall, 
 Clay, and H. W. Beecher. In the sphere of romance and 
 tradition were many evidences of close study and brilliant 
 imagination. Living as most of these men have lived for 
 many years in Florence, some of them having grown gray 
 here, they have gathered experience and learning, culti- 
 vated their tastes, and passed to the front rank in their pro- 
 
AMONG AMERICAN ARTISTS IN ROME. 
 
 IJ 5 
 
 fession, never ceasing to be passionately attached to their 
 country. 
 
 There are many things in Florence to arouse our better 
 nature. The eloquence of marble is something very strange. 
 You go into one of the studios and stand before a face like 
 that of Sumner, or of Garibaldi, or a figure of the Greek 
 Slave, or Adonis, or Venus, and turn the sculpture on its 
 pedestal, and it seems to talk to you in what I would call 
 the grave silence of its features. It is not so with bronze. 
 But the spotless marble of Carrara, produced within a few 
 hours' distance, has a language of its own when translated 
 into statuary. Every different position, as you move these 
 figures, has a new expression, sometimes a smile and some- 
 times a frown, and, as you feel these emotions, you begin 
 to understand why the world is so enthralled by Art. 
 There are some pictures that follow you with their living 
 eyes till you leave the room to avoid them, and if you look 
 long into those of Vandyke and Raphael, painted by them- 
 selves, you almost think they are about to add a spoken 
 welcome. 
 
 Florence, March, 1875. 
 
 XXX. 
 
 Among American Artists in Rome. 
 
 In company with the Rev. Dr. Robert J. Nevin, this 
 morning I visited most of the American studios in Rome, 
 and my only regret is that I have not the time to relate all 
 the incidents of the occasion. There were enough to fill a 
 small library; every studio was a book in itself, and every 
 statue or picture a biography or a romance. Mr. Wm. W. 
 Story, who, since the death of the lamented Powers, may 
 
Il6 AMONG AMERICAN ARTISTS IN ROME. 
 
 be called the dean of his guild, allowed us the full range 
 of his magnificent collection, the ripe fruits of years of 
 high culture and congenial toil. Mr. Story is the son of 
 the late illustrious Joseph Story, of Massachusetts, one of 
 the justices of the Supreme Court of the United States, 
 and outside his high position as a sculptor is also a pro- 
 found lawyer and a successful poet. It is difficult to say 
 whether his fame rests most upon the offspring of his chisel 
 or the products of his pen. It was natural, therefore (as 
 I looked into the face of the statue of his father standing 
 near those of Shakspeare and Peabody, and in close prox- 
 imity to the venerable Josiah Quincy and Edward Everett, 
 of Boston, and from these turned to his superb Cleopatra, 
 a more than full-length reclining figure, with her Egyptian 
 visage, voluptuous form, and marvellously Oriental orna- 
 ments and robes, and then followed the line of glittering 
 marble, including Beethoven, Saul, Sappho, Salome, Judith, 
 and many more idealisms of Scripture and mythology, end- 
 ing with a fine realistic statuette of himself, by an Italian 
 brother, leaning against a column upon which were en- 
 graved a partial list of his sculptures), that from this study 
 I remembered the catalogue of his printed poetry. I could 
 not help saying that the gifted son was worthy of the great 
 father. 
 
 In Mr. St. Gandeus' studio there is a colossal ''Hia- 
 watha," of much merit, and another of "Silence," of 
 equal proportions, intended, I am told, for the new Ma 
 sonic Hall of Philadelphia. Mr. St. Gandeus was absent 
 in America, but his janitor informed me that he contem- 
 plated an appropriate contribution to our Exposition. Mr. 
 Franklin Simmons, of Maine, showed us the model of his 
 great " Naval Group," ordered by Admiral Porter, accord- 
 ing to an act of Congress, and to be placed, I hope, not at 
 Annapolis, but in one of the fine spaces in the city of 
 Washington. The whole composition is to be forty-five 
 
AMONG AMERICAN ARTISTS IN ROME. 
 
 117 
 
 feet high, including two female figures representing "Grief" 
 and "History," eight and a half feet high, while the base 
 is covered with ideals of exquisite grace and significance. 
 Here also was a fine model of William King, the first Gov- 
 ernor of Maine, larger than life, and the cast of the cele- 
 brated Roger Williams for the art gallery in the old hall 
 of the House of Representatives in our National Capitol. 
 
 It was a rare pleasure to ascend to the saloons of Mr. 
 Tilton, the favorite American painter, overlooking the gar- 
 dens of the Capucin Convent, and to enjoy some of his 
 latest Egyptian and Roman subjects. He had just returned 
 from the Nile, and was full of his theme. One of them 
 just completed for that generous patron of art, Marshall 
 O. Roberts, of New York, was especially beautiful. We 
 then called in succession upon Mr. Yedder, born in New 
 York, whose specialty is a marvellous combination of sym- 
 pathy with the atmosphere, and water, and trees, added to 
 a weird imagination ; upon Mr. Montalant, well known in 
 Philadelphia, the artist who completed the noble picture 
 of the Palatine owned by Mr. J. Gillingham Fell ; upon 
 Mr. Haseltine, landscape painter, in his gorgeous saloons 
 in the Palazzo Alteria ; upon Mr. Geo. H. Yerrell, of 
 Maryland ; upon Miss Lewis, the young colored sculptress, 
 who had just sold one of her pieces for eight hundred dol- 
 lars; upon Mr. Albert Harnisch, of Philadelphia, sculptor, 
 ambitious and successful, and finally upon Miss Harriet 
 Hosmer, in her bower of a studio, and had a good word 
 from each and all. I cannot designate the many beautiful 
 things in these several collections, and therefore avoid in- 
 vidious distinctions, as I save time and space. I leave 
 Randolph Rogers until the last, because he is so essentially 
 a Philadelphian and an American, and has done so much 
 by his works for our State and the nation that it would be 
 idle to speak of his deep interest in the Centennial. His 
 studio is the resort of our countrymen, and you feel singu- 
 
nS AMERICAN 7 CHURCH IN ROME. 
 
 larly at home in the midst of his works. It was pleasant 
 to see the models of the bronze doors which he had made 
 for the Capitol at Washington, and through which I had 
 passed so many, many times while I was Clerk of the 
 House and Secretary of the Senate. 
 
 Rome, March, 1875. 
 
 XXXI. 
 
 American Church in Rome. 
 
 Passing from art to religion, I have to mention a work 
 rising in all its fine proportions directly in the vicinity of 
 the Hotel Quirinal, where I am stopping. I refer to the 
 American church begun not long ago, — after Victor Eman- 
 uel had become the monarch of United Italy, — chiefly 
 through the exertions of the Rev. Dr. Nevin, for several 
 years rector of Grace Church, in Rome, when that church 
 (the Protestant population being refused any house of wor- 
 ship within the Roman walls) was an old granary outside 
 the gates, approached through filthy streets and in the 
 direct vicinity of the hog-market. First, a word about 
 Dr. Nevin, the son of the distinguished clergyman, Rev. 
 Dr. John W. Nevin, head of Franklin and Marshall Col- 
 lege, Lancaster, Pennsylvania, and the brother of Mr. 
 William Wilberforce Nevin, of the Philadelphia Press. 
 He was born in Lancaster County, like his brother, and 
 like him fought all through the war as an artillery officer, 
 on the Union side. I found him, on my arrival here, 
 busily at work in the double relation of pastor of a ver\ 
 large congregation and superintendent of the splendid 
 church now going up in the handsomest portion of modern 
 Rome. Crowded though he be by these heavy duties, I 
 soon realized that he had time enough to spare for the 
 
AMERICAN CIJURCI1 IN ROME. 
 
 119 
 
 Centennial. Accepting that memorial event as alike a 
 patriotic and a moral manifestation, he helps it forward 
 also as a native Pennsylvanian. And in his constant inter- 
 course with society in Rome, where he is a deserved favor- 
 ite, and among the most prominent of the Papal Monsig 
 nori, by whom he is sincerely respected, however dreaded 
 for his Protestant perseverance, he never fails to present 
 the truly cosmopolitan design of the International Exposi- 
 tion as worthy of the support of every party and of every 
 sect. 
 
 When the Americans in Rome found that the Imperial 
 City was to be thrown open for free worship, one of their 
 number called upon Prince Humbert, the heir-apparent, 
 and informed him that if their purpose of erecting an ap- 
 propriate edifice in which to worship within the walls would 
 in any way interfere with the mission of Victor Emanuel by 
 arousing still more the angry enmity of the Vatican, it 
 would be postponed to a more opportune period. The 
 reply was that they should go on with their project ; that, 
 although, like his father, he was a good Catholic, yet the 
 day of religious intolerance had gone by, and that, in the 
 new order of things, nothing was more essential to Italy 
 than that this truth should be practically enforced; and he 
 hoped it would finally be realized and obeyed by the Vati- 
 can. "Your American Protestant church," he said, 
 "steadily going up under the eyes of the Vatican and 
 under the auspices of the Government, will be at once 
 the sign that you are in earnest and the pledge that we 
 mean to support you." 
 
 Now for the dimensions of the American church in the 
 new Roman quarter, which Mr. T. Adolphus Trollope, the 
 leading English correspondent at the Italian capital, has 
 called " the most beautiful ecclesiastical building in the 
 city, and, even including the great Basilicas, altogether 
 the best in ecclesiastical feeline: and architectural taste." 
 
120 AMERICAN CHURCH IN ROME. 
 
 The exact dimensions are: Length, one hundred and 
 thirty-six feet ; width, sixty-four feet ; height, sixty-six 
 feet ; tower, twenty feet square, one hundred and thirty- 
 six feet high (gift from clere-story up of Miss Catharine 
 Wolfe, of New York, with a full chime of bells, from 
 Belgian foundries, presented by Henry Messenger, Esq., 
 of Brooklyn). The style, Italian Gothic; the architect, 
 G. E. Street, R.A. Material, — outside, travertine from 
 near Tivoli, brick from Farina; inside, ashy stone, richer 
 in color and of a larger grain than the Paris stone ; side- 
 aisle roof of vaulted brick and stone ; nave roof, timber, 
 — chestnut and fir ; pillars that support clere-story, of gran- 
 ite, surrounded by columns of bluish Carrara marble; bases 
 of red marble from Perrugia ; cellars sixteen feet deep to 
 prevent dampness ; double floors for same reason. 
 
 As I walked around the building in company with Dr. 
 Nevin, and heard his interesting narrative of the efforts 
 made in America to raise the money to finish it, I appre- 
 ciated the justice of Mr. Trollope's praise. When com- 
 pleted, this church will indeed be very beautiful. Placed 
 as it is, fronting a new avenue so different from the narrow 
 streets of the old city, and on a corner, with its main front 
 facing another wide street, it will always be a most impres- 
 sive monument. Its general characteristics are reality and 
 solidity; no imitative work is admitted, and this.is much in 
 modern Rome, where there are many shams, I regret to 
 say, both spiritual and material. As I recollected that 
 Rome, under the improved system of travel and steadily- 
 increasing railroads, is certain to become more and more 
 a great school of art for the Americans, and art not as the 
 mere agent of a single denomination, but the teacher of 
 people of every belief, and that it will be no longer simply 
 accessible to the rich and luxurious, but also to the poor 
 and ambitious, I could not doubt that my countrymen 
 would make the completion of Dr. Nevin's church a matter 
 
AMERICAN CHURCH IN ROME. I2 i 
 
 of earnest determination. The English are amazed at his 
 progress; they have a national church, the Americans have 
 none. Their rich men of the Established Church, their 
 prelates and their nobility, are always in Rome in great 
 numbers. London is only three days distant, with its 
 countless millions of money, and yet, far-off America, by 
 voluntary contributions collected by this young soldier- 
 priest, who has given to his mission the same energy and 
 self-sacrifice which carried him to the war for liberty, has 
 nearly finished this magnificent Protestant temple.* Per- 
 haps it is because our people have entered more deeply 
 into the true significance of this practical expression of free 
 worship and genuine toleration. But Dr. Nevin must not 
 be allowed to pause for the want of funds to close out what 
 he has so splendidly begun. He needs thirteen thousand 
 dollars in gold at once, and if he gets it his church will 
 be open on next Christmas. He has raised the most of the 
 money, over seventy thousand dollars, by persistent effort, 
 and his friends at home, indeed all liberal men, should give 
 him the benefit of prompt generosity. He is no more 
 interested than thousands of others, and no money can 
 ever control his unselfish labors. He received a subscrip- 
 tion a few days ago of two thousand dollars from a Boston 
 gentleman, who had heard his sermons and watched his 
 able and unwearied exertions to complete his beautiful 
 church. Will not the people of the United States take the 
 matter in hand, and send forth the requisite amount at the 
 earliest moment? I could name a dozen men who could 
 supply the deficit in as many minutes, if they would only 
 look into the issues involved in Dr. Nevin's movement. 
 Rome, March, 1875. 
 
 * It was opened for divine worship in March, 1876. 
 
THE THREE POWERS IN ROME. 
 
 XXXII. 
 
 The Three Powers in Rome. — Garibaldi at Home. 
 
 There are many conspicuous characters now in Rome — 
 princes of the blood from all the nations, great scholars 
 and antiquarians, a perfect college of artists of every de- 
 gree, and eminent strangers from the Occident to the 
 Orient — but the three men most sought and most discussed 
 are Guisseppe Garibaldi, Victor Emanuel II., and Pope 
 Pius IX. The great age of the latter seriously complicates 
 the political position, while the vigor of the King and the 
 solid popularity of Garibaldi increase the solicitude of the 
 adherents of the Vatican and the Quirinal, the first repre- 
 senting the Papal authority and the second Imperial power. 
 Between these two influences Garibaldi in his individual 
 isolation is a curious study. No such personage has ever be- 
 fore figured in Italian history. If you look over the long 
 line of Pagan and Christian rulers, whether Popes or 
 Princes, you seek in vain for a type so peculiar as the sailor, 
 the mechanic, the soldier, and the philosopher of Caprera. 
 His life has been the romance of fact and the fact of ro- 
 mance. Precisely as he won a great empire in i860 only 
 to refuse supreme civil command, so he comes as a mem- 
 ber of Parliament to take his stand by the side of Vi< tor 
 Emanuel as the best embodiment of United Italy. He now 
 devotes his time to a great scheme of internal improve- 
 ment, by which the capital of his beloved country may, if 
 possible, be restored to its ancient commercial supremacy. 
 Reflecting upon this wonderful record, and upon the fact 
 that I had personally met General Garibaldi nearly thirty 
 years ago at the Astor House, New York, when he was an 
 
GARIBALDI AT HOME. 
 
 123 
 
 humble candle-maker at Staten Island, I resolved to seek 
 an interview with him. Garibaldi lives at the Villa Casa- 
 linni, outside the Porta Pia, a twenty minutes' drive from 
 Rome. Our party consisted of Mr. M. D. Eyre, the 
 banker; Mrs. Eyre, and their interesting little boy, Ar- 
 thur ; Mr. Carter, Mr. Sherrod, Mr. Forney and Mrs. 
 Weigley of Philadelphia; Randolph Rogers, the artist; 
 Mr. Washburne, of New York, and two English gentle- 
 men, Mr. Wm. Porter and Mr. F. D. Finley, correspondent 
 of the Belfast Northern Whig. 
 
 When we reached the closed gate of the villa and rang 
 the bell, the old servant shook his head and said that the 
 General was too ill to see company, but Mr. Eyre, a native 
 Philadelphian, who has lived in Italy for the last seventeen 
 years, gathered our cards (among which was a large pho- 
 tograph, with an engraving of the Centennial Art Gallery, 
 which I had brought with me to present to Garibaldi), and 
 told him that the General's son, Minotti, had assured us 
 that we could see his father that day, upon which the old 
 man carried in our names, and soon returned with a smiling 
 welcome. We passed the Italian garden and ascended the 
 usual Italian stone stairs, and without the slightest cere- 
 mony were ushered into a long, unfurnished, half-frescoed 
 room on the second floor. 
 
 There was a common mahogany table in the middle of 
 the room, a cabinet with writing materials, a few chairs, 
 no pictures on the walls, and, sitting in a large arm-chair, 
 Garibaldi himself, in gray clothes, with the inevitable red 
 shirt, which has been the uniform of hundreds of thou- 
 sands of his followers, and is still the badge of the Liberals 
 of Italy. We were duly presented by Mr. Eyre, and when 
 it came to my turn he said, " I am proud to call myself a 
 citizen of the United States." I answered, "I thank you, 
 General, for this compliment to my country, but you are 
 also the republican citizen of the world." His hands and 
 
124 
 
 GARIBALDI A T HOME. 
 
 feet are gnarled and knotted like the great live oak or ilex 
 tree, which he has survived so many years, but his eye 
 shone like a star, and he had an unwrinkled face. He is 
 strikingly likchis photographs. 
 
 I conversed freely with him for some minutes, and as we 
 turned to leave I saw Minotti Garibaldi carefully examining 
 the engraving of the Centennial Art Callery. He is a 
 very interesting man, with all the amiability of his father, 
 and he turned to me and said, "I remember this picture 
 well from the description in our Roman newspaper." 
 Then, after we had said good-by to the quiet General, 
 who talked to us in the most gracious English, Minotti 
 descended the same stone stairs, at the foot of which a 
 little pamphlet was placed in the hands of each of us ex- 
 plaining General Garibaldi's great scheme to make Rome 
 a port of entry. It is handsomely printed in Italian, and 
 has been circulated very widely. 
 
 The General proposes so to direct the course of the 
 Tiber as it flows toward the sea as not only to promote the 
 commercial prosperity of Rome, but to prevent the annual 
 inundations which have inflicted so much misery upon the 
 people of the capital. The drainage of the Campagna 
 (the great outlying desert district adjoining Rome in sub- 
 lime and heretofore insoluble sterility and periodical con- 
 tagion) can then be carried on by improving the current 
 of the Tiber. This is his general view, and he demands 
 for it the consideration of the scientific men of the civil- 
 ized world. It has already excited much discussion among 
 the French and English engineers, and I have had sent to 
 me a large number of documents on the subject. The 
 vitality of Garibaldi in his old age is not less remarkable 
 than his republicanism, and it is strange how his example 
 is felt all over conservative France and England, and how 
 this single proposition attracts and fascinates the capitalists 
 of the world. In his quiet and unfurnished chamber he 
 
LAFAYETTE'S GRANDSON. 
 
 125 
 
 preserves that undaunted devotion to the people, that 
 untempted love for his race, which make him the living 
 contrast to all precedents. 
 
 Rome, March, 1875. 
 
 XXXIII. 
 
 Lafayette's Grandson. — His American and Family Surroundings. — En- 
 thusiasm for the Centennial. 
 
 Oscar de Lafayette, grandson of the illustrious Mar- 
 quis de Lafayette, and Deputy from the Seine-et-Marne 
 in the National Assembly, is the president of the National 
 Committee to secure an appropriation for the Centennial. 
 He lives in plain apartments, No. 70 Rue de Bac, Paris, and 
 yesterday Mr. Gratiot Washburne, of the American lega- 
 tion, Mr. Clement M. Biddle, member of the Centennial 
 Finance Committee, Mr. A. Canbert, a Paris lawyer of 
 eminence, and myself, paid him a visit and received a 
 genial welcome. The room in which he received us was 
 adorned with engravings of his ancestral and living rela- 
 tives. A fine likeness of Washington, after Stuart, hung 
 on the left of the mantel, with the standing figure of 
 Lafayette, so well known in America, on the right, near 
 an excellent print of the heroic Madame Lafayette, hardly 
 less celebrated than her illustrious husband. There were 
 others, among them George Washington Lafayette, the 
 father of our host, in his beautiful uniform as captain of 
 the French cavalry. M. Oscar de Lafayette is about sixty- 
 five. He speaks English rapidly and reasonably well, and 
 desires a proper representation of France at the Centen- 
 nial. I had sent him a copy of the last pamphlet of the 
 Philadelphia Commission, with engravings of the five great 
 
 11* 
 
I2 6 ENTHUSIASM FOR THE CENTENNIAL. 
 
 buildings and the details of their progress, and he was 
 much gratified. Mr. Biddle said that his presence in 
 America next year would be hailed by a grateful people 
 with universal enthusiasm. "It is impossible; it is im- 
 possible !" was his reply. " I am too old for the journey; 
 but I could not love America more than I do. These are 
 my idols," as he turned to the historic pictures in his 
 room. He made many suggestions, and is evidently deeply 
 in earnest. M. Lafayette is a profound republican, — that 
 I was glad to know, — and by no means anxious to be con- 
 sidered of consequence as one of a noble family. He was, 
 however, proud of his relationship to the great Frenchman 
 who was the first in France, in Europe, to come forward to 
 help the infant Colonies in the darkest hour of the Ameri- 
 can Revolution. That it is which makes him eager that 
 France shall have a prominent place in the Centennial. 
 He has a distinct recollection of his grandfather, the 
 great Marquis, who died forty-one years ago, and con- 
 verses with French fervor of the wonderful growth of the 
 "United States. I felt quite near to the Past when I saw 
 this active representative of the man who came at the right 
 moment to save our infant Colonies, and I could well an- 
 ticipate his welcome in Philadelphia should he be induced 
 to visit us next year. 
 
 Intelligence from all the French departments indicates 
 increasing desire to visit Philadelphia in 1S76. We are 
 the second best customer of this great nation, a point well 
 made by Consul-General Torbert at the Hoffman dinner in 
 Paris last January. The silk men of Lyons, the wine- 
 growers of Bordeaux, the sardine-packers of Marseilles, the 
 iron, steel, glass, cotton, wood, and wool manufacturers, 
 the jewellers and weavers, the paper- and book-makers, and 
 the indescribable variety of inventors and producer; of all 
 sorts of material for show and substance, in this vast hive 
 of industry and genius, are impatient to move. There is 
 
ENTHUSIASM FOR THE CENTENNIAL. 
 
 127 
 
 no political feeling in regard to the Centennial in France, 
 although there is much about almost everything else. It is 
 true the Republicans in the Assembly have taken the in- 
 itiative, but there is an outspoken sentiment in the other 
 parties. The Orleans Princes, the Count cle Paris and the 
 Duke de Chartres, are as deeply interested as the Empress 
 Eugenie and the Prince Imperial at Chiselhurst, and the 
 several members of Marshal MacMahon's Cabinet respect 
 the popular feeling as daily reflected in the public journals 
 of all opinions. 
 
 Much of this widespread solicitude is to be traced to the 
 quiet and sympathetic suggestions of our minister, Mr. 
 Washburne, who moves in all circles, official and unofficial, 
 including those who produce and those who consume. 
 The repeated admonitions of Mr. Secretary Fish to our 
 ministers and consuls in foreign States, not to be "offi- 
 cious" in regard to the Centennial, have been carefully 
 obeyed; but now that the Governments of all the civilized 
 nations have, with one or two possible exceptions, taken 
 up the invitation from America, and acted upon the ample 
 explanations of the Centennial Commissioners, our repre- 
 sentatives abroad would be cold indeed, if not culpable, if 
 they did not respond to an enthusiasm so natural and 
 wholesome. 
 
 France has a peculiar reason for taking a forward place 
 at Philadelphia next year. With her enormous and diver- 
 sified capabilities, she has not sought purchasers like Eng- 
 land and Germany. She has not been a successful colo- 
 nizer, nor have her people been eager and steady emigrants. 
 She has contrived and invented, an 1 waited for her cus- 
 tomers to come to her. Her fabrics of inconceivable splen- 
 dor and novelty; her gold, silver, brass, iron, steel, stone, 
 wood, silk, wool, cotton, hemp, paper; her art; her litera- 
 ture ; her science ; her agriculture have been subjected to 
 what we call middlemen, so that the original article is 
 
128 CAPTAIN PAUL BOYTON. 
 
 handed down with extra charges or commissions before it 
 reaches the buyer, whom she ought to have captured by 
 going directly to him. The Centennial offers her an op- 
 portunity to change this localism by opening a market 
 where she can meet her competitors face to face, and, 
 while helping herself to new customers, help to cheapen a 
 thousand articles of use and ornament to the benefit of 
 mankind. 
 Paris, April, 1875. 
 
 XXXIV. 
 
 Captain Paul Boyton. — Swims across the English Channel. — Queen Vic- 
 toria's Telegraph. 
 
 We are at Boulogne-on-the-Sea, where, 55 years B.C., 
 Julius Caesar embarked for the invasion of Britain, a feat 
 Napoleon I. threatened, but did not execute, some seventy- 
 one years ago. We came hither to receive a now very 
 noted American, Captain Paul Boyton, of the Life-saving 
 Service at Atlantic City, who, backed with the personal 
 good wishes of Queen Victoria, who had witnessed many 
 of his bold and skilful performances in the harbor of 
 Cowes, now proposed to swim across the English Channel, 
 and arrived at Dover, accompanied by several newspaper 
 reporters, and made his final preparations to drop into the 
 ocean at three o'clock on Saturday morning, April 10, 1875. 
 
 Having resolved to witness the issue of this bold venture, 
 we left Paris that morning for Boulogne, which we reached 
 at half-past two o'clock p.m., and found unusually alive. 
 The people crowded along the piers and on the hills, and 
 small boats were skimming the tranquil waters. The 
 French, American, and English flags were flying from the 
 public places, and there was a general air of expectancy. 
 
BOYTON CROSSES THE ENGLISH CHANNEL. 
 
 129 
 
 The project of the gallant Captain was regarded as in the 
 last degree dangerous, and the Englishmen, always prone 
 to make wagers on any trial of skill, were actively betting 
 among themselves. 
 
 About six o'clock in the afternoon a steamer from Dover 
 came in with the news that it had passed the Captain about 
 twelve miles off, and that he was doing bravely. As the 
 evening advanced the people left the hills and crowded 
 into the streets, and about half-past seven Boyton's well- 
 known rockets were seen at a distance of several miles, 
 signalling his approach. A little after eight he landed at 
 the pier, amidst an immense crowd of people, who greeted 
 him with prolonged cheering. He was immediately con- 
 veyed to the quarters of the Boulogne Humane Society, 
 where, after removing his life-preserver, he retired to rest, 
 and was quietly resting when his brother introduced my 
 friends and myself. He received our sincere welcome with 
 much emotion. This was about nine o'clock in the even- 
 ing. 
 
 At six o'clock the next morning (Sunday) he rose much 
 refreshed and proceeded to the Hotel Christol, where, at 
 eleven o'clock, I met him, surrounded by the reporters of 
 the London and Paris press, looking as strong and bright 
 as if he had just come from a bath. " Well, you see, my 
 good friend," was his first greeting, "if you have kept 
 your promise, made to me last December in London, to 
 meet me on the French coast after I had crossed the Brit- 
 ish Channel, I have kept mine by carrying the Centennial 
 flag during the fifteen hours I have buffeted the stormy 
 waves and contended with fifty miles of the cross-currents 
 between here and Dover; and there the flag hangs from 
 the window." Outside the hotel had gathered, Sunday 
 morning though it was, a great throng of people, eager to 
 catch a glimpse of the young swimmer, while over their 
 heads floated the Centennial banner. " This flag," con- 
 
 F* 
 
130 QUEEN VICTORIA'S TELEGRAPH. 
 
 linued the Captain, " is yours to hand over to the Centen- 
 nial Commission, as a pledge of my devotion to my coun- 
 try, and my earnest wishes for the success of the great 
 Exposition in my cherished home, the city of Philadel- 
 phia." [I hope to forward this precious memento by one 
 of our American steamers that will leave Liverpool on the 
 28th of April or 10th of May.] In consideration of the 
 gracious favor extended to Captain Boyton by Queen Vic- 
 toria, and in fulfilment of a promise he had made to her, 
 immediately after his arrival at Boulogne he sent forward 
 the following telegram : 
 
 To Genera/ Ponsonby, Osborne ; for her Majesty the Queen : 
 
 According to her Majesty's gracious desire, I have the honor to announce 
 to your Majesty the success of my attempt to cross the Channel, over fifty 
 miles in fifteen hours. The kind interest of her Majesty nerved me in my 
 long and arduous struggle in the cause of science and humanity. God 
 save the Queen ! 
 
 While I was speaking to him in the Hotel Christol, he 
 opened and read to me the following answer : 
 
 From the Queen. 
 Osborne, April 11 — 10.17 a.m. — 1875. 
 To Captain Boyton, Boulogne. 
 
 The Queen has received the news of your safe arrival at Boulogne with 
 much pleasure, and commands me to congratulate you on the success of 
 your expedition. 
 
 General Ponsonby, Osborne. 
 
 This was immediately succeeded by one from the Lord 
 Mayor of London, viz. : 
 
 Captain Paul Boyton, Boulogne : 
 
 I congratulate you upon the success you have achieved so gallantly in 
 the interest of humanity. 
 
 A splendid public demonstration from the authorities of 
 Boulogne greeted Captain Boyton, next day. 
 
 Boulogne, April, 1875. 
 
CHANTILLY RACES. 
 
 XXXV. 
 
 Cliantilly Races. — The Courses and Stands. — Colonel Bridgland on Aniei i • 
 can-French Stock. 
 
 The old adage, profane as it is extravagant, that this 
 great metropolis is " Heaven for men, Paradise for women, 
 and Hell for horses," is certainly untrue as to the horses, 
 if we may judge by the care with which they are reared 
 and the prices which are paid for them. The collection 
 of horses in the later days of the Vienna Exhibition of 
 1873 ' s remembered among the most valuable features of 
 that great display, and there is no doubt that the noble 
 expanses of Fairmount Park, in 1876, apart from the special 
 accommodations in the Centennial grounds, will attract the 
 best specimens from all the American States, and perhaps 
 from Europe. The horse-show now open at the Palace of 
 Industry is crowded daily, and is certainly an extraordinary 
 affair. The presence of buyers from every corner of Europe, 
 and of the English, French, and Italian nobility, adds to 
 the interest of the show. When you are told that the 
 French cavalry and artillery employ from seventy thou- 
 sand to eighty thousand horses, that there are nine thou- 
 sand in the omnibus lines of Paris, five thousand absorbed 
 by the cabs and public coaches, you can form some idea of 
 the private stables and the studs of the various racing men, 
 and so estimate the steady demand upon the supply. 
 
 Chantilly, the property of the Duke d'Aumale, fourth 
 son of Louis Philippe (of Orleans), is about an hour's ride 
 by rail from Paris. Its chateau, park, gardens, fountains, 
 and drives, with its forest of six thousand seven hundred 
 acres, are admirable. It is also curious from the historic 
 
132 
 
 CHAN TILLY RACES. 
 
 stables of the Duke, capable of holding one hundred and 
 eighty horses. In May the Derby cups and in October the 
 St. Leger prizes are contended for at Chantilly. Many 
 valuable horses are kept and trained in the vicinity, in 
 readiness for the semi-annual sport. Government provides 
 some of the stakes, and outside organizations contribute to 
 tne competition. 
 
 Last Sunday I attended the course at Longchamps, close 
 to Paris, and witnessed six magnificent races, for sums of 
 from three thousand to ten thousand francs. All the horses 
 advertised in these six races appeared except five. The 
 Marquis of Rothschild had an entry in five; the other 
 owners were noblemen and men of fortune, several having 
 three and four in one race. The time was excellent, close, 
 compact, and evidently honest. The order on the ground 
 was not less marked than the punctuality. They began at 
 two p.m., and finished the whole programme before six. 
 The crowd was immense, but not a drunken man, nor a 
 riot, nor a dispute. The excitement was French and harm- 
 lessly fervid. 
 
 The scene was altogether new to me. The course was 
 green turf, not like ours — made ground ; the horses shod 
 lightly only on the hind feet ; the riders in the colors of 
 the owners ; the horses distinguished by white numbers on 
 numerous black boards, and the winner seen at once as the 
 only white figure left on the black boards. The course is 
 one hundred and fifty-three acres ; there are four great 
 stands, two on each side of the president's pavilion. The 
 roofs have seats for eight hundred persons. In all there 
 are places for eight thousand persons. There are three 
 courses — one one thousand nine hundred metres, one two 
 thousand three hundred, and one two thousand nine hun- 
 dred — a metre being a little more than an American or 
 English yard. The broad view from the stand is very beau- 
 tiful, not unlike the look-out from George's Hill, in our 
 
AMERICAN-FRENCH STOCK'. 
 
 l 33 
 
 Park, east and west. In the noble space between the tracks 
 there are frequent military displays, and in the distance 
 you have the Bois de Boulogne, many elegant villas, the 
 hills of St. Cloud, Mt. Valerien, and the river Seine. It 
 is a gorgeous panorama on a race-day, when the stands are 
 crowded with spectators, and the intervening expanse 
 packed with carriages, filled with people watching the 
 horses. 
 
 On Sunday last there were many eminent and curious 
 characters in the throng — sportsmen from all the nations, 
 a long array of notables, and facing us the Count de Paris 
 and his family, with Madame Erlanger, formerly Miss 
 Slidell ; they held a gay court of their own. Among other 
 men, the American consul-general for France, General 
 Torbert, and Colonel Bridgland, the American consul at 
 Havre. Conversing with them I gathered some valuable 
 information in regard to French horses. General Torbert 
 was a distinguished cavalry officer during the war, and -his 
 tastes naturally inclined him to a careful examination of 
 the subject. About a year ago he purchased a valuable 
 Normandy stallion, now on his farm, near Milford, Dela- 
 ware, and he speaks highly of his qualities. 
 
 I asked Colonel Bridgland for his experience, and, as he 
 comes from another part of France, I took down his words 
 almost literally in answer to my questions. 
 
 "What shall I say to our American horse-dealers and 
 raisers, Colonel, who expect to be in great force at the 
 Centennial, about the French breeds of this noble ani- 
 mal?" 
 
 Colonel Bridgland; — "I will tell you with pleasure. 
 Soon after my induction into office at Havre my attention 
 was called to the legalization of invoices of horses. 
 Knowing that we were capable of producing horses at home 
 cheaper than they can be produced here, in consequence 
 of the low price of land and feed, I at once set about to 
 
 12 
 
134 AMERICAN-FRENCH STOCK. 
 
 ascertain for what purpose these horses were being shipped 
 to the United States, and what were their grade and char- 
 acter. I visited several lots that were in stables at Havre 
 for export, and found them to be in most instances the 
 descendants of the original Percheron, a horse of great 
 size and endurance, weighing anywhere from one to three 
 thousand pounds, with almost the action of an Arabian 
 thoroughbred in many instances, and at the same time 
 possessing the comparative strength of an elephant. Many 
 of them are at work in the drays and truck-wagons in the 
 French and other cities of Europe, where one of them of 
 good average size, and in good condition, will haul with 
 apparent ease twenty-five bales of American cotton, which 
 is equal to two loads of cotton hauled in New York by two 
 horses, or, in other words, is the work of four of our 
 American truck-horses. 
 
 "The pure-blooded 'Percheron horse' is a cross be- 
 tween the thoroughbred Arabian and the original ' Nor- 
 man draft horse,' — the first possessed of great fleetness and 
 delicacy of form, the latter of great size and strength, — 
 which constituted the ' stage stock' of France before the 
 introduction of railroads. I can say, with positive cer- 
 tainty, having had some experience as a stock-raiser, that 
 these horses, now being largely imported into our Western 
 States, if properly bred and the crosses properly made, will 
 do more in the next ten years to give the United States a 
 high order of general-purpose horses, or horses of all work, 
 than all the horse importations that have hitherto been 
 made, as nearly all of our importations hitherto have been 
 racing running horses, which are worthless except for 
 gambling purposes. We have bred that class of stock, and 
 another class much more useful, the trotter, whose perfec- 
 tion as such has been unequalled by any other part of the 
 world, until we have bred our stock down so small that we 
 have but few general-purpose or business horses that are fit 
 
AMERICAN-FRENCH STOCK. 
 
 135 
 
 for the common work of our country. These Percheron 
 stallions, crossed with our small trotting and running 
 mares, must produce very much the same kind of stock in 
 our country that the Norman draft horse and the thorough- 
 bred Arabian mare produced in France many years ago, 
 which constitutes the present Percheron stock that I have 
 referred to, and of which our farmers and stock-raisers im- 
 ported last year from Havre alone more than one hundred. 
 The prospect up to this time this year is that our importa- 
 tions will double. 
 
 " Our importers and dealers are now charging too much 
 for them, but, as all new enterprises of this kind are ex- 
 periments, the prices obtained at first are much larger than 
 when the people have become familiar with the article they 
 deal in. A good Percheron stallion can be delivered in 
 New York for from one thousand to fifteen hundred dol- 
 lars, and pay a reasonable profit to the importer, while the 
 same are now selling in Illinois at from two to three thou- 
 sand dollars ! 
 
 "I have just returned from one of the great annual horse 
 fairs in France, that of Bernay, in the department of the 
 Eure, within my consular district, where there were more 
 than three hundred of them, mares and horses, brought in 
 by the farmers and dealers for sale. They were exhibited 
 and sold by their owners, not at auction. Many of them 
 were purchased by English dealers for the London and 
 other English markets. Russia is becoming quite interested 
 in this class of horse-raising, and the French Government 
 was a buyer of several at this fair for the purpose of send- 
 ing them to the Government herds in Algeria, there to be 
 crossed with the Arabian thoroughbreds. 
 
 "There were three or four American buyers, who, I 
 think, made the very best selections, but, of course, as is 
 usual for Americans over here, paid the biggest prices. 
 Among them, Mr. Cicero Brown, a merchant and a long 
 
I3 6 AMERICAN-FREXCH STOCK. 
 
 resident of Havre, shipped per steamer Canada, which left 
 on March 3, some six Percheron horses, addressed to 
 Mr. John Virgin, at Fairbury, 111. Of these was a beautiful 
 bay colt, three years old, of rare beauty of form and bear- 
 ing for a large horse ; also, a coal-black horse, four years 
 old, very stylish, and of great size and power. Mr. B. H. 
 Campbell, of Batavia, Kane County, 111., was likewise 
 present at this fair, and made, I think, as excellent a 
 selection as I have seen anywhere. I feel confident there 
 is no part of our stock-raising in America that has been so 
 neglected during the past twenty years as the business horse 
 or horse of all work. I think, however, it would be better 
 for our importers to import some Percheron mares as well 
 as stallions, as upon our cheap food we can breed and raise 
 a four-year-old stallion in any of our Middle or Western 
 States at a cost to the farmer of not more than two hundred 
 dollars, whilst the same animal, bred and raised on this 
 side, would cost one thousand to fifteen hundred dollars, 
 as I have already mentioned, to import. 
 
 "On this trip I visited many large woollen and cotton 
 manufactories, and am glad to say that in every instance 
 the proprietors seemed not only willing, but anxious, to 
 send specimens of their wares to our Centennial Exhibition 
 at Philadelphia in 1S76. I believe that my consular dis- 
 trict will be a liberal contributor to that great enterprise." 
 
 Paris, April, 1875. 
 
BARTIIOLDI, THE FRENCH SCULPTOR. 
 
 XXXVI. 
 
 Bartholdi, the French Sculptor. — Scope of his Work. 
 
 Four years ago a French sculptor, Auguste Bartholdi, 
 visited Philadelphia, bearing letters from that good friend 
 of America, M. Laboulaye, to several persons, myself 
 among the rest, and remained long enough to attract 
 special confidence by his modesty and ability. He saw 
 some of the members of the Fairmount Park Commission, 
 among others Theodore Cuyler and Henry M. Phillips, and 
 he impressed them favorably by his several studies of the 
 capacity of that spacious breathing-place of our city. One 
 of these was a superb gate to the main entrance at the foot 
 of Green Street, a combination of Revolutionary history 
 and municipal development. He also made drawings 
 showing the necessities and capabilities of Philadelphia in 
 the matter of fountains in her various squares and spaces. 
 There was something in the manner and in the experience 
 of the young Frenchman that soon made him a favorite. 
 He had fought under Garibaldi in the legion raised by the 
 Italian hero during the Franco-German war, and he came 
 to America after the German conquest to find a home and 
 a republic for himself. He was in no sense a Communist, 
 but believed, like his friend Laboulaye, that there could 
 be no real rescue for France unless in a pure, representative 
 democracy. I hoped he would have remained in America 
 after having seen the Pacific coast, including the Yosemite, 
 after visiting Chicago, Washington City, Boston, New 
 York, and Philadelphia, and I had hopes that he would 
 make Philadelphia his chosen residence. But he had a 
 
138 SCOPE OF BARTHOLDPS WORK. 
 
 mother whom he loved better than life, and a country not 
 yet given over to despotism, and so he returned to France. 
 
 Visiting him here, I found him in his studio, No. 40 Rue 
 Vavin, on the other side of the Seine, and spent a delight- 
 ful hour with him, and this evening I have had a long talk 
 with him in my little parlor at the Hotel Castiglione. The 
 recent declaration of France in favor of a Republic has 
 lifted him out of his gloom, and the approach of the cele- 
 bration of the first century of American Independence — 
 an independence saved and sealed by French valor — gives 
 eloquent confidence to his deportment. The example of a 
 spirit as noble as Bartholdi's proves that the love of liberty 
 is not dead in Europe. It is wonderful how his ideal per- 
 vades all his works; how an elevated religion and a cos- 
 mopolitan humanity soften and strengthen them. While 
 at Marseilles, in February, I saw his magnificent fountain 
 before the new Museum, near the railroad station, with its 
 four mighty lions couchant, the bright waters foaming into 
 the beautiful marble basin, and the two shining temples, 
 right and left, of science and education completing and 
 fronting the splendid square; and though the guide could 
 not remember the artist, I knew it was Bartholdi by the 
 model he had shown me in Philadelphia nearly four years 
 ago. Yesterday I saw the group in his studio, and recog- 
 nized it at once. 
 
 The next object belongs to our Centennial : also a foun- 
 tain, to be cast in iron, and placed, as a specimen of 
 his work, I trust, in one of the spaces in the American 
 division. It embodies Light and Water, the twin goddesses 
 of a great city. Three colossal nymphs of exquisite form 
 upbear a wide circular shield into which the water falls from 
 other figures, while ten lamps held up by as many beautiful 
 arms shed light at night from their gas-globes, as they in- 
 spire harmony in the day ; but the water is to flow forever. 
 This rich and delicate group would cover some twenty 
 
SCOPE OF BARTHOLDPS WORK. 
 
 J 39 
 
 feet, and rise about forty. All he asks is that our authori- 
 ties should supply the water and the light. It is the joint 
 production of M. Bartholdi and a Paris moulder of dis- 
 tinction, and I have no doubt it will find a ready sale, 
 and lead to many orders from our cities, too sadly in need 
 of such lovely objects in their squares and parks. His 
 next work is his colossal figure of Lafayette on' his way to 
 America in early youth. He stands on the prow of the 
 ship that bears him, his right hand holding his sword to 
 his breast and his left opened, while a serene expression 
 lights his countenance, as he may be imagined to exclaim, 
 "The moment I read the Declaration of Independence I 
 offered my services to America," or words to that effect. 
 This masterly conception is to be placed in Central Park, 
 New York, by the French residents of that city. 
 
 Here are the four models of the four famous bas-reliefs 
 on the Brattlestreet Church, Boston, in red stone, over the 
 front of that historic temple, and pronounced to be per- 
 fect. They are called the "four steps of Christian life" 
 — Marriage, Baptism, Communion, and Death. In one 
 of the groups he has introduced the whole family of 
 Laboulaye, and in another an accurate likeness of Charles 
 Sumner. The figures in the photographs, with the angels 
 at the pillars, alike those who typify of life and those who 
 idealize death, are singularly faithful in expression and in 
 pose and drapery, making of each bas-relief a study full of 
 pathos and beauty. 
 
 For the French frontier town of Belfort he has just 
 finished a gigantic lion to face the great rock upon which 
 the battlement stands, illustrating the heroism of the men 
 of 1 87 1 who defended that post and saved it to France. 
 The huge king of the forest, seated on the pedestal, yet 
 rising on his front feet, glares over the border in stern de- 
 fiance at the foes of France. I should think it at least 
 thirty-five feet high. 
 
l 4 o M. BARTHOLDPS LIGHTHOUSE. 
 
 Some of my readers perhaps may recollect that in 1871-2 
 I attempted to describe, in The Press, M. Bartholdi's idea 
 of a massive lighthouse, one hundred feet high, on Bedloe's 
 Island, in the approach to the harbor of New York, to be 
 constructed of copper, and to stand on a broad granite 
 base : a female figure, with a tiara round her brow, to be 
 composed of lights that might be seen for fifty miles at 
 night. This is to be the contribution of the French Re- 
 publicans to America, and all they will ask is that their 
 compatriots in the United States shall see it well placed 
 and kept in order. Till the French Republicans felt that 
 they had a Government in accord with their sentiments, 
 this colossal work could not be pushed ; but now that they 
 can speak, and write, and paint, and carve their senti- 
 ments, though not with the full freedom they might desire, 
 the grand project is renewed and will be carried forward. 
 The artist's thought is that all the nations may see by day 
 the figure of Liberty welcoming them to the United States, 
 and follow her shining welcome in the darkest hours of 
 their despair. He made a survey of the outer waters of 
 New York harbor before he began his sketches and finished 
 his model. It is a conception worthy of Michael Angelo. 
 
 This rapid sketch is not "a business notice" of M. 
 Bartholdi. He requires no such advertisement. His 
 hands are full of orders. His models on competitive 
 occasions are generally successful, especially for fountains 
 for towns and cities. I do not, indeed, conceal my per- 
 sonal attachment to this gifted young Republican, but I 
 think I do other people quite as much good as himself 
 when I attempt to describe his character and his produc- 
 tions. But he will be in Philadelphia in 1876, to speak for 
 himself. 
 
 Paris, April, 1875. 
 
ART SALES IN LONDON. 141 
 
 XXXVII. 
 
 Art Sales in London. — Plethora of Wealth. — Bank Deposits. 
 
 Nothing would be more useful than a faithful statement 
 of the individual and collective wealth of Great Britain. 
 The income of the estates of the leading families of the 
 nobility, and especially of the persons engaged in manu- 
 factures of cotton, iron, ale, glass, porcelain, silk, and the 
 leading ship-builders and shippers, including the endless 
 revenues of the various mines, and the returns of persons 
 engaged in the wine and tea trades, would in the aggregate 
 startle the world. We can approximate the national wealth 
 by noting the growth of exports and imports from 1859 to 
 1870, and the increase of the national indebtedness from 
 1688 to 1871. 
 
 Every week the newspapers contain a list of wills and 
 bequests, and I have often thought of digesting these dis- 
 closures to illustrate the almost incalculable riches of thou- 
 sands who are never heard of till they die; not the least 
 suggestive feature being the way in which they finally dis- 
 tribute their money. 
 
 A specimen of the manner in which a good deal of 
 money is spent in high life was furnished in the recent 
 sales of pictures, two at the Manley Hall Gallery, on the 
 23d and 24th of April, and the other on May 1, when the 
 celebrated Brieul collection was put up at auction. I 
 will not run through the whole catalogue. On the first 
 day, "The Night Before Naseby," a picture forty inches 
 by fifty, was sold for nearly one thousand five hundred 
 dollars; another, Marsand's "Venus," thirty-seven by 
 twenty-five inches,, was sold for two thousand six hun- 
 
142 
 
 ART SALES IN LONDON. 
 
 dred and twenty-five dollars ; another, " Hermione, in the 
 'Winter's Tale,'" for over two thousand seven hundred 
 dollars. An unfinished picture by J. Philip, "Winnowing 
 Corn," thirty-seven by thirty inches, for two thousand five 
 hundred dollars ; a painting by Leslie, twenty-three by 
 thirty-four inches, from " Henry VIII.," being the King 
 unmasking to Cardinal Wolsey (sold a few years ago for 
 nine hundred and sixty guineas), now brought one thou- 
 sand three hundred and sixty-five pounds, or nearly seven 
 thousand dollars. A picture by L. Gallait, forty-four 
 inches by sixty, was started at one thousand six hundred 
 guineas and sold for two thousand six hundred and seventy- 
 seven pounds, nearly fourteen thousand dollars. All these 
 sums are in gold, and this one day's sale realized more 
 than one hundred and sixty thousand dollars. 
 
 At these auctions you notice all sorts of characters, the 
 rooms are always crammed, there are agents from most of 
 the nations, and there is a Babel of tongues. The aristocracy 
 are present in person or by their representatives. Next 
 day (April 24, 1875) tne sa ^ e was dramatic in its numerous 
 living characters and the almost speaking pictures, and in 
 the great excitement of the rival bidders and buyers. The 
 experience proves one thing conclusively, — the vast amount 
 of money in England ready to be paid for good objects of 
 art, pictures, statuary, plate, engravings, and, very natu- 
 rally, old wines. In this day's sale there was a famous 
 water-color by Turner, known as "Venice — the Grand 
 Canal." This fine picture, thirty-six by forty-eight inches, 
 was painted by the artist for three hundred guineas, and 
 fourteen years ago was sold for two thousand four hundred 
 guineas. It was now started at a bid of four thousand 
 guineas, and went up in two bids, one of which came from 
 the rich Earl of Dudley, to six thousand guineas; but here 
 the struggle for this small painting really began. It was 
 as good as a play to watch the audience as the contest for 
 
ART SALES IN LONDON. 
 
 143 
 
 this vvater-color painting deepened, and when finally the 
 hammer fell, and Mr. Agnew, the daring dealer in these 
 expensive works of art, finally secured it, the cheering was 
 loud and long. His bid was seven thousand guineas, or 
 over thirty-six thousand five hundred dollars. It is be- 
 lieved that Mr. Agnew bought it for the Earl of Dudley, 
 who had just previously paid fifteen thousand dollars for 
 an oil painting by Landseer, called "The Deer Family." 
 Much enthusiasm was created by a work of P. Frith, R.A., 
 entitled " Before Dinner at Boswell's Lodgings in Bond 
 Street, in 1769," thirty-eight inches by sixty-three. The 
 characters in the picture are Johnson, Garrick, Goldsmith, 
 Reynolds, Murphy, Bickerstaff, Janes, and Boswell. It 
 started at two thousand guineas, and was struck down to 
 Mr. Agnew at four thousand five hundred and sixty-seven 
 pounds, or about twenty-four thousand dollars. A picture 
 of J. Millais was sold for about sixteen thousand dollars, 
 and ethers in almost equal proportion ; as both Millais and 
 Frith are living, they ought to feel highly complimented 
 by these tremendous prices for their work. This day's sale 
 amounted to sixty-five thousand five hundred and ninety- 
 three pounds, which, with that of the day before, makes 
 the total sum paid for pictures ninety-seven thousand nine 
 hundred and eighty-two pounds, and adding this to the 
 sums received for plate and porcelain, for wines and en- 
 gravings, the two days' auction netted one hundred and 
 fifty thousand one hundred nd forty-seven pounds, or, in 
 round numbers, over seven hundred and fifty thousand 
 dollars. On Saturday, the 1st of May, forty-eight thou- 
 sand three hundred and ninety-three pounds, or nearly 
 two hundred and fifty thousand dollars, were paid for one 
 hundred and sixty-five pictures at the same rooms belong- 
 ing to the so-called "Bedel" collection, so that you will 
 see that in little more than a week about one million dol- 
 lars have been expended by a few persons almost entirely 
 
144 PLETHORA OF WEALTH. 
 
 for pictures. As other sales are to be held during the 
 present week, including English and foreign porcelain, 
 water-colors, and sculpture, what I have here described 
 will be somewhat, no doubt, repeated. Such is the record 
 of expenditure in one department of taste alone. 
 
 Let me now call attention to a fact which bears some- 
 what significantly upon the general desire in England for 
 safe investments in good paying securities. In conversa- 
 tion a few evenings ago with a gentleman well versed in 
 finance, he referred to the plethora of money in London, 
 and confidently asserted that most of it was not drawing 
 more than from two to three per cent, per annum, and he 
 added that he had no doubt that the moment the United 
 States recovered from their panic, so as to be able to con- 
 vince the moneyed interests of Europe that they could and 
 would pay all their suspended interests, and be strong 
 enough to make good all their obligations in the future, 
 that capital would rush irresistibly to our side of the At- 
 lantic. "There is a natural desire to invest in America," 
 he said, "and I beg of you to impress the lesson upon 
 your people that nothing is needed on their part but good 
 faith to absorb all our dead capital ;" and he then handed 
 me the following account of deposits in the public banks 
 of London at midsummer last year, 1874. No mention is 
 made in this list of the Bank of England, inasmuch as the 
 private deposits there are chiefly bankers' balances, nor 
 does he take into account the Indian, Australian, Cana- 
 dian, and Cape banks, which all receive deposits more or 
 less. There are in addition thirty-one private bankers, 
 who make no return of their deposits, one of them, in 
 fact, having larger deposits on hand than any of the pub- 
 lic banks named. In fact, my information leads me to 
 believe that the private banks of London are holding as 
 much money in their vaults as are the public banks, and I 
 think it is a safe assertion that there are at least three hun- 
 
AMERICAN AND BRITISH HOTELS. 145 
 
 dred millions of pounds sterling on deposit in London, 
 or fifteen hundred millions of dollars, which, with any- 
 thing like common sense and fair dealing, we could in 
 great part attract to the United States. I now submit the 
 interesting table of my financial friend : 
 
 DEPOSITS JUNE 30, 1S74. 
 
 London and Westminster Bank ,£31,243,608 
 
 National Provincial Bank 21,822,175 
 
 London Joint Stock Bank 21,870,615 
 
 London and County Bank 18,928,918 
 
 Union Bank 13,918,162 
 
 City Bank 3,206,086 
 
 Consolidated Bank 2,929,492 
 
 Imperial Bank 1,976,266 
 
 Alliance Bank 1,722,739 
 
 London and Provincial Bank ...... 1,319,098 
 
 National Discount Company 9,568,718 
 
 Standard Discount Company 3,997,286 
 
 United Discount Company ....... 2,272,733 
 
 Total j£i34.7-5.396 
 
 London, May, 1875. 
 
 XXXVIII. 
 
 American and British Hotels. 
 
 In the matter of hotels, by almost universal consent, 
 especially on the part of the strangers who have tried those 
 in the United States, we are far ahead of the Europeans. 
 Edmund Yates, who visited our country a few years ago, 
 returned with such an appreciation of the Continental, in 
 Philadelphia; the Brevoort, in New York; the Revere, in 
 Boston; Welker's and the Arlington, in Washington, that it 
 is a treat to hear him talk about them ; and I have previously 
 
 G \% 
 
146 AMERICAN AND BRITISH HOTELS. 
 
 referred to the experience of Rev. Llewellyn Bevan, detailed 
 to his London congregation, in regard to his own experi- 
 ences of American hotels. My own judgment concurs in 
 this verdict, not only in point of comfort, but in point of 
 expense. I aver that you can live cheaper at any of our great 
 hotels than you can in the same class in London or in Paris. 
 Of course, there are boarding-houses in all the English and 
 Continental cities where, with ordinary economy, you can get 
 on with very little expense, but there is such an infinitude of 
 small charges everywhere that, do what you may, you find 
 yourself at the end of the week considerably out of pocket. 
 For instance, if 50U try to send the waiter off on an errand 
 he takes your message to a Commissionaire, who charges 
 you a shilling. It is sixpence here and sixpence there, and 
 the accumulated items in one of the bills of the Langham, 
 or the Midland, or the Charing Cross, or the Westminster, 
 would make you stare. You pay extra for lights, for fire, 
 for attendance, for " Boots" ; all outside of fees extra to 
 a legion of servants, and with all the talk about cheap 
 fares you must be on the qui vive to avoid swindling hack- 
 men and drivers. An experienced Londoner gives it as 
 his opinion that if the great hotels in this metropolis were 
 half as good as they are in America, the system of clubs 
 would not have grown as it has into the present colossal 
 organization. 
 
 London, May, 1875. 
 
A "BLUE LAW" REVIVED. 
 
 147 
 
 XXXIX. 
 
 A " Blue Law" revived. — Sunday in London. — The People and the 
 Sabbath. — Sunday Newspapers. 
 
 There are some aspects of Sunday in England which 
 have just received a curious illustration. About two weeks 
 ago an old law, passed a hundred years ago, was revived, 
 providing that any place of amusement opened on Sunday 
 for which a price of admission is charged shall be fined 
 two hundred pounds for every such offence. The fanatic 
 who did this work brought the case before one of the 
 Courts, but the terms of the statute were so clear that the 
 learned judge, while not failing to denounce the motive 
 which induced the resurrection of the law, was compelled 
 to decide that it must be enforced. The special object 
 was to deprive the laboring classes, who have for many 
 years been able to enjoy themselves at the Brighton Aqua- 
 rium on Sunday, by means of low railroad fares and cheap 
 tickets of admission, of this method of rational relaxation; 
 and if the decree of the judge is permitted to stand, by 
 allowing the old statute to remain unrepealed they will be 
 excluded from the few other places of amusement accessi- 
 ble to them the first day of the week. It will require little 
 ingenuity on the part of any narrow bigot to compel the 
 closing of the Zoological Gardens and of the Alexandria 
 Palace on Sunday. Of course there is considerable excite- 
 ment, and, although there is a general belief that Parlia- 
 ment will sweep away the ordinance which, until now, has 
 remained a dead letter, the work will not be accomplished 
 without much angry discussion. In connection with this 
 event the directors of the London, Brighton, and South 
 
I4 8 SUNDAY IN LONDON. 
 
 Coast Railway Company have suppressed all Sunday ex- 
 cursions by abolishing cheap fares on that day. In con- 
 trast with this is the liberal action of our Park Commis- 
 sioners, who allow the multitudes of Philadelphia the free 
 range of Fairmount on Sunday, and the humane policy of 
 the managers of our Zoological Garden. 
 
 To-day, which is Sunday, as I again strolled past the closed 
 shops and taverns of London, and noted the universal cessa- 
 tion of business, the dead calm of the mighty ocean of trade, 
 which to-morrow will roar with the rush of the tempest of 
 traffic, I did not forget that there were many noble parks 
 and spaces in London in which the people may always roam 
 at pleasure on the Sabbath day. These glorious expanses, 
 already bright in the heavy verdure of May, and soon to 
 be garlanded with the flowers of this moist and moderate 
 climate, are the special charms of London, and it is to the 
 enduring honor of Government that they are jealously 
 guarded among the precious privileges of the people. 
 
 William Penn, when he founded Philadelphia, 1682, kept 
 in view the many gardens and parks of London, and to his 
 wise forecast we are indebted for those we now have, in- 
 cluding the additions inspired by his example. In his 
 "Instructions for Settling the Colony," dated September 
 30, 1681, he directed for Philadelphia "that each house 
 should be in the middle of the breadth of the ground, so 
 as to give place to gardens, that it might be a green coun- 
 try-towne which might never be burnt and always whole- 
 some." And I gather from documents in the British 
 Museum that when Penn reached Philadelphia in Novem- 
 ber of 1682 he changed the names and location of some 
 of the streets. " Many had been named after prominent 
 colonists. For instance, what is now Walnut was first 
 called Pool Street ; Mulberry was Holmes Street ; Chest- 
 nut was Union Street, which was not satisfactory to the 
 proprietor. He gave the name of High Street to the wide 
 
LONDON PARA'S. 
 
 149 
 
 central avenue from river to river, and the other main streets 
 parallel with it he called after the forest-trees found there. 
 The cross streets were named according to their numbers, 
 as Front, Second, Third, etc., beginning at each river, and 
 counting to Broad Street. He reserved in the middle of 
 the city, at the intersection of High (now Market) and 
 Broad Streets, a large square for public buildings and for 
 health and recreation ; in each of the four divisions of the 
 city was a square for public walks. It was his intention 
 and original plan not to permit buildings to be erected on 
 the river banks, but to have there a wide promenade the 
 whole length of the city. This beautiful and salutary 
 arrangement was in after-years allowed to be infringed 
 upon." And then mark this paragraph from the same 
 authority: "Broad Street, which is parallel with the Dela- 
 ware, and lies nearly midway between that river and the 
 Schuylkill, had not been located on the highest ground, 
 and the Governor had it changed to the top of the ridge, 
 though nearer to the Schuylkill, so that the public buildings 
 intended to be placed there should overlook the whole city." 
 I have had much satisfaction in showing the beautiful pho- 
 tograph of the new Philadelphia city buildings, and the 
 fine descriptive pamphlet of the president, Mr. Perkins, to 
 our friends abroad, and the ancient document is a full con- 
 firmation of the policy which dictated their erection on 
 the present site. 
 
 You can thus see where our founder obtained his model 
 nearly two hundred years ago, when he established Phila- 
 delphia, as you saunter through the numerous parks — "the 
 lungs of London." There are fourteen of these parks or 
 pleasure-grounds open to the people every day in the week, 
 including the magnificent expanses of Hampton Court and 
 Kew. It is interesting to notice how these magnificent 
 spaces are made tributary to the comfort of the people. 
 The troops are drilled in some of them. Portions are set 
 
r 5° 
 
 SUNDAY NEWSPAPERS. 
 
 apart for trap-ball, rounders, cricket, and other games. 
 The lakes are used for bathing and boating. Excursion 
 parties are permitted and encouraged, and in Hyde Park, 
 while the aristocracy drive and ride in all their splendor, 
 the people by thousands enjoy the beautiful sight as they 
 walk through the grounds. Romance and history are com- 
 bined. On the sides of most of these parks lines of noble 
 mansions are built, and you recall the past in the midst of 
 the royal expanses of the present. Statues, arches, and 
 gates add to their superb adornment. If the population 
 of London should prefer to go farther, they have the out- 
 lying country and the cheap steam excursions on the Thames, 
 from all of which you will see that notwithstanding the 
 vigor with which the great city itself is kept in order on 
 the Sabbath, plenty of opportunities for rational enjoyment 
 have been provided by this watchful and considerate Gov- 
 ernment. 
 
 As I am writing about Sunday in London, let me say 
 a word about the weekly papers most largely read by 
 the people on that day. The principal are the Observer, 
 the Court organ ; the Sunday Times (not connected with 
 the daily Times, as it is a fact that no daily paper here has 
 a Sunday edition) ; Lloyd' s Newspaper, the Weekly De- 
 spatch, the Weekly Times, and Reynolds' Newspaper. With 
 the exception of the Observer and the Sunday -Times, 
 these are badly written, and filled with the scandals of the 
 week past, especially murders, seductions, and divorces. 
 Reynolds' does not hesitate to speak of the nobility, and 
 even of the Royal Family, in the most offensive terms. It 
 is positively asserted that Reynolds' is read by five hundred 
 thousand persons, and the other penny weeklies have a large 
 circulation also. I cannot help thinking, as I contrast the 
 learning, ability, and courteous impersonality of the London 
 daily papers with the unconstrained and indecent material 
 of the London Sunday papers, that the chasm between the 
 
THE HERALDS' COLLEGE LN LONDON. 
 
 151 
 
 two is appallingly wide, and that, until what are called the 
 lower classes are supplied with a purer popular literature, 
 there must always be discontent, and the requirements of 
 the law must be severely enforced. 
 
 The other weeklies, aesthetic, art, religious, sporting, 
 critical, illustrated, and scientific, most of which are very 
 large fortunes in themselves, are published for cultivated 
 reading. For all classes are comic journals, — Figaro, 
 Punch, Punch and Judy, and Vanity Fair. There is 
 nothing in this mighty metropolis more worthy of careful 
 study than its ephemeral literature of the day. 
 
 London, May, 1875. 
 
 XL. 
 
 The Heralds' College in London. 
 
 Shakspeare's Henry the Fifth, in his often quoted 
 soliloquy before the battle of St. Crispin, and after his 
 interview with two of his private soldiers, Bates and Wil- 
 liams, as a stranger knight, uses the following language : 
 
 And what art thou, thou idol ceremony? 
 
 What kind of god art thou, that suffer'st more 
 
 Of mortal griefs, than do thy worshippers ? 
 
 What are thy rents? What are thy comings in? 
 
 O ceremony, show me but thy worth ! 
 
 What is thy soul of adoration ? 
 
 Art thou aught else but place, degree, and form, 
 
 Creating awe and fear in other men ? 
 
 Wherein thou art less happy, being fear'd, 
 
 Thin they in fearing. 
 
 What drink'st thou oft, instead of homage sweet, 
 
 But poison'd flattery 1 Oh ! be sick, great greatness, 
 
 And bid thy ceremony give thee cure ! 
 
!52 
 
 THE HERALDS COLLEGE LN LONDON. 
 
 Such seems to be the general idea of the forms and 
 fashions of State, and, in fact, such has been my own judg- 
 ment ; but a recent visit to what is called the Heralds' 
 College, on the east side of Bennet's Hill, Doctors' Com- 
 mons, largely modified this impression. It is a perfect 
 repository of the pedigrees of the nobility and of all per- 
 sons of rank, including the old families, commoners as 
 well. Here you realize that what we know of England is, 
 in fact, the history of its great houses, beginning with the 
 original founders, and running through the ages down to 
 the present time. In our country such a thing as an old 
 family thus preserving itself through the generations is un- 
 common. Here, many a person may look back over his 
 ancestry for a thousand years, tracing his own name and 
 lineage through long periods, by means of printed and 
 written documents carefully laid away. 
 
 With us (where we have no such system as that of entail 
 or primogeniture) the man alone is considered, not the 
 family; and while many of our most distinguished persons 
 have attempted to transmit their greatness through their 
 children, it seems as if by some Providential ordinance 
 that each should have been the sole conspicuous instance 
 of his name. 
 
 The province of the Heralds' College is to preserve the 
 pedigrees of the nobility and gentry. It also forms a trib- 
 unal by which spurious aspirants for arms are detected 
 and punished. It gives elaborate details of coronations, 
 royal marriages, christenings, funerals, visits of kings and 
 princes, cavalcades, jousts, tournaments, and combats. 
 The funerals of the kings and princes fill sixty-five folio 
 volumes, in which a representation of the royal body and 
 the procession, with every pennon and hatchment that was 
 used, is quaintly and beautifully executed; also lists of all the 
 noble and official persons present. It is, in fact, an immense 
 library, entirely dedicated to the one object of keeping 
 
 
THE HERALDS' COLLEGE JN LONDON. 
 
 153 
 
 alive that respect for Rank which is, after all, one of the 
 strong fortresses of English power. Nor are these forms, 
 as we examine them in the light of this old establishment, 
 insubstantial things. They frequently decide not only 
 legal questions, but are often produced in Parliament to 
 determine the claims to peerages, or to verify some point 
 in diplomacy or statecraft. 
 
 The present College was built in 1683, from the design 
 of Sir Christopher Wren, upon the site of the former 
 college, destroyed in the great fire of London, in 1666 ; 
 but fortunately the valuable collection of books and docu- 
 ments was saved. It is of brick, and, like all these ancient 
 edifices, discolored by time and the climate. The main 
 building stands back from the highway, two projecting 
 wings forming a square or court in front. It is a note- 
 worthy fact that even Cromwell had his King-of-Arms. 
 
 The College itself was incorporated by Richard the 
 Third, in 1484, and is composed of an Earl Marshal (the 
 Duke of Norfolk, one of the leading Roman Catholic 
 noblemen of England), three kings-of-arms, six heralds, 
 and four pursuivants. The office of Earl Marshal is heredi- 
 tary in the house of Norfolk, and the other members hold 
 by appointment of the Queen. The heralds, as the officers 
 of the College except the Earl Marshal are generally 
 termed, attend at court on formal State occasions, espe- 
 cially at the opening and closing of the House of Lords by 
 the Queen, and the royal ceremonies above alluded to. 
 Their dress is singularly rich, quaint and ornamental. Mr. 
 Stephen I. Tucker, the Rouge Croix pursuivant, who kindly 
 accompanied us over the College, showed us his Court 
 dress, — a scarlet coat richly embroidered in gold, with 
 buttons of the royal household, a cocked hat, with cockade 
 of the House of Hanover, dark pantaloons with a broad 
 golden stripe, and a small sword. 
 
 The first records of the College were obtained by visi- 
 
 G* 
 
J 54 
 
 THE HERALDS' COLLEGE LN LONDON. 
 
 tations into the counties of England in 1530, the last 
 visitation in 1687, tne object being to secure authentic 
 lists of the title and pedigree of the gentry, not only in 
 justice to the rightful claimants but to avoid imposition. 
 The heralds cited all parties wearing or claiming the right 
 to wear armorial bearings before them in the King's name 
 to show their right to "bear arms," which means the 
 privilege of wearing upon their persons and equipages the 
 badge or order of their respective families. This power is 
 still lodged in the College, and the records constitute a 
 perfect and authorized catalogue of all the nobility and 
 titled commoners of England since the time of the first 
 visitation. Every successor to the privilege of bearing 
 arms must attest his family record in the presence of two 
 of the Queen's heralds, as follows: "We certify that the 
 above account of our family is true to the best of our 
 knowledge and belief." We saw a very recent attestation 
 of the present Duke of Bedford, and were also shown, 
 among others, the signature of Sir Isaac Newton, certifying 
 to his pedigree. 
 
 Passing into another room we found ourselves in the old 
 Court of Chivalry and Honor, which was adorned with 
 portraits of the whole succession of Earls Marshal from the 
 time of the Conquest, and contained the throne in which 
 the Earl Marshal used to sit and adjudge all matters con- 
 nected with honor and arms. This court, which has been 
 abolished, became nearly as oppressive and almost as de- 
 testable as the Star Chamber. At one time it imprisoned 
 and ruined a merchant citizen for calling a swan a goose, 
 and at another fined Sir George Markham ten thousand 
 pounds for saying, after he had horsewhipped the saucy 
 huntsman of Lord Darcey, that if his master justified the 
 insolence which he had punished he would horsewhip him. 
 
 When a person desires to obtain what is called a grant 
 of arms, he employs one of the heralds, and through him 
 
THE HERALDS' COLLEGE IN LONDON. 155 
 
 presents a memorial to the Earl Marshal, praying "that his 
 Grace will issue his warrant to the king-of-arms authorizing 
 and confirming to him proper armorial ensigns to be borne 
 according to the laws of heraldry by him and his descend- 
 ants." If on examination the claimant proves his right, 
 this patent is registered in the books of the College, and 
 receives the signatures of the Garter king-of-arms and of one 
 of the provincial kings-of-arms. The fees for such a grant 
 amount to seventy-five guineas, about four hundred dollars. 
 An ordinary search of the records costs five shillings, and 
 a general search one guinea (twenty- one shillings). 
 
 Besides the original grant, the arms are sometimes aug- 
 mented for meritorious service, whether in battle, in sci- 
 ence, in art, or in statesmanship. When Sir William 
 Gull, the eminent physician, was made a baronet, the 
 Heralds' College made him a grant of arms representing 
 the serpent of yEsculapius and three gulls, surmounted by a 
 crest, with two hands upholding the torch of life, with the 
 motto Sine Deo frustra (unless God prevents). After he 
 had rescued the Prince of Wales from his late dangerous 
 illness, the Queen, to signalize her gratitude, sent to the 
 College a special order for an augmentation of his arms, 
 and this was effected by adding to his arms one of the 
 feathers of the Prince of Wales's plume and the lion of 
 England on an escutcheon. All these things may seem 
 absurd to Americans, but there is a certain value attached 
 to this recognition of distinguished ability higher in fact 
 than any pecuniary compensation, inasmuch as such tokens 
 are transmitted from generation to generation and rank 
 among the imperishable memorials of the name. With 
 all our republicanism we must not forget our pride in the 
 men of the Revolution and in those great characters who 
 have reflected honor upon our country, and the care with 
 which we pay all respect to their memorials, which is really 
 an unconscious imitation of British custom. 
 
156 THE HERALDS' COLLEGE IN LONDON. 
 
 Another instance shown us of the minuteness with which 
 family honors are preserved was a document containing a 
 full statement of the seven marriages of Sir Gervase Clifton, 
 who was a widower six times; and the pedigree of his 
 descendants through these seven marriages, apparently 
 complicated, is here clearly unravelled. A curious family 
 history contained the petition of Thomas Greenhill in 1698 
 to the Earl Marshal humbly praying that " in consideration 
 of your petitioner being the seventh son and thirty-ninth 
 child of one father and mother, your Grace will please to 
 signalize it by some particular mark or augmentation in 
 his coat-of-arms to transmit to posterity so uncommon a 
 thing." This odd petition was granted by the Earl Mar- 
 shal and a warrant was issued to the heralds authorizing 
 them to distinguish the arms of the petitioner, which they 
 differenced by adding thirty-nine mullets or spur-rowels to 
 his bearings. 
 
 A strange old vellum volume, beautifully written and 
 decorated, the work of a monk of the fourteenth century, 
 professes to be "The Pedigree from Adam, to the Saxon 
 Kings;" but not content with beginning with Adam, the 
 skilful genealogist commenced with the three persons of 
 the Trinity as the founders of the family of the Saxon 
 kings. Nothing could be more ingenious than the highly- 
 decorated pages of this wonderful book, displaying a skill 
 equal to that of Albert Durer. A picture of the Trinity is 
 followed by one of Adam and Eve in the Garden, with their 
 memoirs, as well as the history of the leading members of 
 the family. His sketch of the life of Adam concludes in 
 these words: " And when he had lived 930 years he died, 
 and is buried at Ebron, and he died of the gout." This 
 laborious and artistic work is further embellished with pic- 
 tures of the ark, the tower of Babel, Jacob wrestling with 
 the Angel, etc. 
 
 We were shown a fine manuscript, said to have been 
 
THE HERALDS' COLLEGE LN LONDON. 
 
 *57 
 
 compiled to teach heraldry to Prince Arthur, the elder 
 brother of Henry VIII., who died young, and whose 
 widow, Catharine of Aragon, was the first of Henry's six 
 wives. It begins with the arms of Prince Arthur impaled 
 with Aragon, and contains the arms of that period, the 
 royal badges, the size and importance given to crests, how 
 standards were borne by one supporter of the house, and 
 many other illustrations magnificently illuminated on vel- 
 lum. 
 
 Another volume contained a history of the College, the 
 lives of the heralds, their portraits, signatures, arms, pedi- 
 grees, and what they had done and written. Our courteous 
 conductor, Mr. Tucker, showed us an interesting scrap of 
 his own family history. His ancestor, Stephen Tucker, 
 had the high honor conferred upon him by Henry VIII. 
 of being permitted to sit covered in the royal presence, a 
 privilege accorded to but six families. The deed, dated 
 July 2, 15 19, is a curious study of the time, and is a li< ense 
 to the said Tucker " to use and weare his bonnet upon his 
 hede as well in our presence as elsewhere at his libertie ; 
 wherefore we will and command you and every of you to 
 permit and suffer him so to doe without any your chal- 
 lenges, lets, or interruptions to the contrary." 
 
 A remarkable vellum roll gave the pedigree of the Earls 
 of Warwick down to the Kingmaker of Edward the Fourth, 
 beginning with Guitheln, King of Britain, who founded the 
 town of Warwick about the period of the birth of Alexan- 
 der the Great, B.C. 356. The portraits were quaintly and 
 artistically executed, showing the memoir and full achieve- 
 ment of arms. If the ancestor was represented holding a 
 house, it signified that he had acquired lands; if with a 
 sword, that he was a warrior ; a church, that he founded 
 an abbey ; a child, that his son and heir had died in the 
 lifetime of the father. 
 
 We were shown the ring, sword, and dagger taken from 
 14 
 
158 THE HERALDS' COLLEGE IN LONDON. 
 
 the body of James the Fourth, the grandfather of Mary 
 Queen of Scots, at Flodden, as trophies of the victory by 
 the Earl of Surrey, who commanded the British forces and 
 was of the Duke of Norfolk's family, and therefore Earl 
 Marshal of the Heralds' College. The ring, which is set in 
 turquoise, had been sent by the Queen of France to poor 
 James the Fourth on the eve of the battle of Flodden, tell- 
 ing him to break a lance for her, and the gallant Prince 
 put it on his finger as a. gage (Tamitie. 
 
 We next entered a room the walls of which were adorned 
 with portraits of eminent heralds in their tabards. Here 
 were shoals of pedigree, the Gloucester pedigree alone 
 filling eleven large volumes, and the indexes to wills com- 
 prising about a hundred volumes. One of the most in- 
 teresting collections was the Talbot Papers, of the time of 
 Queen Elizabeth, being mainly correspondence with the 
 Earls of Shrewsbury, particularly the Earl who had the 
 custody of Mary Queen of Scots in his castle in Sheffield 
 Park. I was struck with a postscript in the handwriting of 
 Queen Elizabeth to a letter written to the Earl of Shrews- 
 bury by her secretary, Sir Francis Walsingham. The Queen 
 at this time had just recovered from the smallpox, and 
 such was her vanity that she- imagined the Earl, then at a 
 great distance from her, would think she was disfigured; 
 therefore she added the following postscript in her own 
 hand : 
 
 My Faithful Shrewsbury : Let no grief touche your harte for 
 feare of my disease for I assure you if my creadit were not greatar than 
 my showe ther is no beholdar wold beleve that ever I had bin touched 
 with suche a maladie. 
 
 Your faitheful lovinge soveraine, 
 
 Elizabeth R. 
 
 But to speak in detail of the beautiful illuminated collec- 
 tions, of the quaint chronicles and vellum rolls, of arms 
 of abbeys and priories, arms of Knights of the Bath, arms 
 
NEWSPAPER PRESS FUND DINNER. 
 
 159 
 
 of Esquires of the Bath, baronets' patents, summonses, cere- 
 monials, royal grants and appointments, is beyond the 
 compass of a letter; a volume could be filled with what 
 we saw in one afternoon. 
 London, May, 1875. 
 
 XL I. 
 
 London Newspaper Press Fund Dinner. 
 
 Venerable in years and eminent in all the higher, and 
 perhaps in many of the lower attributes of our nature, 
 nothing captivates the stranger half so completely as the 
 numerous benevolent institutions of London. They are 
 difficult to count — remedies as they are for almost every 
 degree of human want and suffering. Thus we have from 
 thirty to fifty different leading hospitals, a long catalogue 
 of Freemasons' lodges, with the organizations of the For- 
 esters and Odd-Fellows ; also, what are called the Funds 
 of the different trades, many institutions connected with 
 the Establishment, the Roman Catholic, and Nonconform- 
 ist Churches, and a great list of societies containing pro- 
 vision for their aged and poor; but until within the last 
 few years there was no such care for the necessitous mem- 
 bers of the literary departments of the newspaper press and 
 for their widows and orphan children. While the press was 
 successfully advocating the claims of institutions founded 
 for the benefit of unfortunate members of other classes, 
 there was nothing for similar cases connected with its own 
 body. Some twelve years ago it was resolved to estab- 
 lish the present organization. I have just "assisted" at 
 the twelfth anniversary, celebrated at Willis's Rooms, — 
 
160 NEWSPAPER PRESS FUND DINNER. 
 
 historic quarters opened February 12, 1765, by a great 
 ball, at which the Duke of Cumberland, the hero of Cul- 
 loden, was present. From that time they have been used 
 for many celebrated meetings, dramatic readings, lectures, 
 concerts, public gatherings, religious or political. The 
 large ball-room is about one hundred feet in length by 
 forty feet in width, chastely decorated with gilt columns 
 and pilasters, classic medallions, mirrors, etc., lit with 
 gas in cut-glass lustres. Seventeen hundred persons have 
 more than once gathered under its fretted ceilings. Here 
 Mr. Peabody gave a memorable entertainment, while Ab- 
 bott Lawrence was American minister in London, at which 
 the Duke of Wellington attended, only a few months be- 
 fore his death, and had a royal greeting from the American 
 ladies and gentlemen who clustered to take the illustrious 
 hero by the hand; and here I saw the twelfth anniversary 
 of the Newspaper Press Fund celebrated under very inter- 
 esting auspices. It was beautiful to see the whole space 
 covered with tables, glittering with flowers and plate, with 
 the company over two hundred in number, not including 
 the ladies who came in after dinner to enjoy the music and 
 the speeches. 
 
 To me the Very Rev. Arthur Penrhyn Stanley, D.D. , 
 Dean of Westminster, who took the chair about the centre 
 of the table, was the most interesting person. Not only 
 among the adherents of the Established Church, but among 
 all intelligent thinkers and readers, the venerable Dean 
 may be said to have attained universal respect and admira- 
 tion, as well because of his polemic writings as of his liter- 
 ary accomplishments. Nothing gave him a warmer, stronger 
 hold upon the American mind than his unique and striking 
 sermon over the grave of Charles Dickens in Westminster 
 Abbey. He was born in 181 5, and is, therefore, about 
 sixty years old. Educated under Dr. Arnold at Rugby, 
 and finishing his collegiate career at Oxford, he passed 
 
NEWSPAPER PRESS FUND DINNER. 161 
 
 through the highest degrees. He was twelve years tutor 
 of his college, Canon of Canterbury from 1851 to 1858, 
 Regius Professor of Ecclesiastical History at Oxford, 
 Canon of Christ Church, and chaplain to the Bishop of 
 London from 1858 to 1863, when he became Dean of 
 Westminster. To such a mind Westminster Abbey is in 
 itself an endless and eloquent text in stone, and therefore 
 what he has spoken and written upon that prolific subject 
 adds, if possible, new value to the treasure-stores within 
 its antiquated walls. How inspiring the enthusiasm with 
 which he describes the old abbey: "There is no other 
 church in the world," he says, "except perhaps the Krem- 
 lin, at Moscow, with which royalty ,is so intimately asso- 
 ciated. Here, however, sovereigns are crowned and buried 
 under the same roof, whereas in Russia the coronation 
 takes place in one church, the marriage in another, and a 
 third is reserved for the reception of the dead." As the 
 Dean entered the outer room in which the guests were 
 received at the Newspaper Press Fund dinner, in formal 
 but not ungraceful clerical costume, with the scarlet ribbon 
 and jewel of the order of the Bath, of which he is ex-officio 
 Dean, he seemed like a figure from some antique picture. 
 Quiet, graceful, gentle, with almost feminine manners, he 
 was the object of respectful attention. Something like 
 Mr. William M. Evarts, of New York, though not so tall, 
 and older, his diminutive stature did not detract from his 
 natural dignity, and his speech on taking the chair was a 
 model of composition, difficult to hear as he spoke it, and 
 yet delightful to read as it is printed in the newspapers. 
 
 Lord Houghton, the president of the Fund Association, 
 was also conspicuous. Everybody in America has heard 
 of Richard Monckton Milnes and his marked liberality of 
 opinion, his high literary attainments, social talents, and 
 warm attachment to the United States. Born in 1809, 
 twenty-seven years in the House of Commons, created Lord 
 
 14* 
 
1 62 NEWSPAPER PRESS FUND DINNER. 
 
 Houghton, and raised to the dignity of a peer by Lord 
 Palmerston, as well for his support of the policy of Lord 
 Palmerston as for his literary merits, he has nevertheless 
 always been what is called an independent man, and seems 
 to have thrown his whole soul into this Newspaper Press 
 Fund organization. 
 
 Among this brilliant coterie I met my friend, William 
 Howard Russell, LL.D., the famous correspondent of the 
 London Times, who will accompany the Prince of Wales to 
 India and is exceedingly anxious to visit America during 
 our Exposition next year. There were also present Sir 
 Joseph Whitworth, the celebrated ordnance inventor; Jus- 
 tin McCarthy, the rising novelist of the day and one of 
 the editors of the London Netus ; Count Beust, the Austro- 
 Hungarian minister; our old friend the Chevalier Wikoff, 
 as fresh, genial, and sympathetic as he was forty years ago, 
 the same keen observer of men and things, and the same 
 kindly and ubiquitous man of the world ; Monsignor Capel, 
 the great Roman Catholic pulpit orator, the original of 
 a leading character in " Lothair," and many more scarcely 
 less known. 
 
 The progress of this Fund is worth noting if only as an 
 example for American editors and their friends. There 
 are now nearly fifty thousand dollars safely invested in the 
 best securkies, and every annual dinner adds to the sum. 
 Among the honorary members are the Prince of Wales and 
 many other public men of note. The special object is to 
 raise, by subscriptions and bequests from persons connected 
 with the press and general literature, and others disposed to 
 assist the society, a fund for the relief of journalists in want 
 or distress, and for the widows, families, parents, or other 
 near relatives of deceased members. Editors, proprietors, 
 managers, sub-editors, reviewers, musical, art, and dra- 
 matic critics, correspondents, and reporters are eligible to 
 membership. Ten guineas, equivalent to fifty dollars in 
 
NEWSPAPER PRESS FUND DINNER. 
 
 163 
 
 gold, creates an honorary membership. The annual sub- 
 scription of a regularly-elected member is one guinea, or 
 five dollars and twenty-five cents in gold. There is no 
 publication of those who receive assistance from this fund. 
 Judging from the deep interest taken in the work of the 
 society by many noble persons not connected with news- 
 papers, it is quite certain that a large and active co-opera-, 
 tion has been secured, and that the aid afforded to aged 
 and unfortunate newspaper men is already very substantial. 
 Lord Houghton has tntered into the work with character- 
 istic enthusiasm, and I find his name down for several large 
 contributions. Charles Dickens, before his death, spoke 
 of this Fund as follows: "I verily believe that if I had 
 never quitted my old calling [that of a newspaper reporter] 
 I should have been foremost and zealous in the interests of 
 this institution, believing it to be a sound, wholesome, and 
 good one." 
 
 The only difficulty in our country in organizing such a 
 charity is the danger of its lapsing into disuse ; but the 
 peculiar element of the English character is to persevere 
 and to maintain a good thing to the end, which is done 
 not only by obtaining the names of prominent persons, 
 but by gathering into the treasury generous donations from 
 the aged rich and frequently by securing liberal bequests. 
 
 London, June, 1875. 
 
1 64 THE RECORD OFFICE IN LONDON. 
 
 XL I I. 
 
 The Record Office in London. 
 
 In a late visit to that famous institution, " The Record 
 Office," between Fetter Lane and Chancery Lane, where 
 Great Britain has collected all her public papers, the Domes- 
 day Book, which is there preserved, at once attracted my 
 attention. It was made by order of William the Con- 
 queror, nearly eight hundred years ago, and consists of 
 two great volumes, kept in the library in glass cases, under 
 lock and key, and wrapped in rich velvet coverings. The 
 Anglo-Saxon Chronicle explains the purport of this strange 
 book in the following quaint language: 
 
 "At midwinter the King [William] was at Gloucester with his Witan 
 [or Parliament], and there held his court five days, and afterwards the 
 Archbishop and clergy had a synod three days. . . . After this the 
 King had a great council and very deep speech with his Witan about this 
 land, how it was peopled, or by what men ; then sent his men over all Eng- 
 land, into every shire, and caused to be ascertained how many hides [one 
 hundred and twenty acres] were in the shire, or what land the King him- 
 self had, and cattle within the land, or what dues he ought to have, in 
 twelve months, from the shire. Also, he caused to be written how much 
 land his archbishops had, and his suffragan bishops, and his abbots, and 
 his earls ; and what or how much each man had, who was a holder of land 
 in England, in land or in cattle, and how much money it might be worth. 
 So very narrowly he caused it to be traced out that there was not one single 
 hide, nor one yard of land, nor even an ox, nor a cow, nor a swine, was 
 left that was not set down in his writ." 
 
 A photograph of that part of the Domesday Book de- 
 voted to Berkshire, — called the Royal County, because 
 Windsor Castle is situated in it, — I destine for and shall 
 immediately send to the National Museum in our Inde- 
 pendence Hall. This national work is not only a monu- 
 
THE RECORD OFFICE IN LONDON. ^5 
 
 ment of the sagacity and statesmanship of William the 
 Conqueror, but a valuable memorial of many families, 
 extant and extinct; yet some survive who may proudly 
 claim it as the authentic proof of their direct lineage. 
 During the ministry of Mr. Gladstone, arrangements were 
 made to photograph these two ancient tomes, and in 1863 
 Sir H. James applied the photo-zinco-graphic process and 
 produced the fac-similes, a limited number of which are 
 now offered for sale. In making these copies the original 
 document was not even handled or touched. Each leaf 
 of the book wasplaced in succession before the camera by 
 the officer of the Public Record Office, in whose charge it 
 constantly remains. 
 
 The public records of England are now gathered in 
 two hundred and twenty-eight rooms, two hundred of 
 which can accommodate nearly half a million cubic feet 
 of records ! The charge and superintendence of these 
 invaluable documents is vested in the Master of Rolls, Sir 
 George Jessel, a Jewish lawyer of very great ability, who 
 was Mr. Gladstone's Solicitor-General in 1S71. All records 
 that have accumulated for twenty years in the counties or 
 towns are delivered for safe-keeping to him. Searches and 
 extracts are made on the payment of a small fee, but any 
 literary inquirer is permitted to make searches without pay- 
 ment. In this overwhelming repository, Lord Macaulay 
 obtained much information for his history of England, and 
 in 1852 one laborious scholar consulted nearly seven thou- 
 sand documents in preparing the history of a single English 
 township. 
 
 In one of these rooms is a long parchment roll, com- 
 posed of nearly sixty membranes, or sections, being the 
 deeds of the Palatinate of Durham. The Feed era, the pub- 
 lication of the diplomatic documents of the country, is 
 very rare. The royal autograph book contains the earliest 
 written treaty known in Europe, which is the treaty of 
 
1 66 THE RECORD OFFICE IN LONDON. 
 
 peace between Richard I. of England and Baldwin, Earl 
 of Flanders, a.d. 1197. This unique book contains one 
 of the letters of King Edward IV. and his Council, with 
 the signatures of the great men of the time, Richard 
 Duke of Gloucester, the Earl of Northampton, Lord Pem- 
 broke, Lord Dorset, and others. Here is the first ex- 
 ample of a royal signature ever known, that of Richard II. , 
 before whose time no King of England could write his 
 name. Another exceedingly rare autograph is that of the 
 unfortunate Lady Jane Grey, wife of Dudley, who was 
 Queen of England only ten days. There is a recipe for 
 making " hynke" (ink) about the time of Edward IV., 
 and the deputy keeper, Mr. Burtt, informed us that the 
 ink in those olden times was far superior to our modern 
 preparation. But nothing was more impressive than the 
 letter of Richard III. to the Lord Chancellor, with the 
 famous postscript in his own handwriting denouncing the 
 treason of Buckingham. It is printed in " Ellis's Letters," 
 and has been fac-similed. Another celebrated signature is 
 that of Lord Hastings, who appears in Bulwer's "Last of 
 the Barons," while a very extraordinary specimen of pen- 
 flourishes is the autograph of Queen Elizabeth, which 
 shows a skilled hand. There are fine examples of the neat, 
 straightforward writing of the time of Edward I., in the 
 bastard French of that time. 
 
 In a number of thin quarto volumes are preserved the 
 treaties of peace between Henry VIII. and Francis II. 
 The pages are beautifully illuminated. One illustration 
 represents the celebrated meeting on the Field of the Cloth 
 of Gold. Here is the Book of Indentures between Henry 
 VII. and the Abbots of Westminster and other parties to 
 build what is now known as Henry VII. 's Chapel, the most 
 beautiful part of Westminster Abbey, for the performance 
 of services for the repose of his soul ; and this work ex- 
 hibits every element of pomp and style that could be in- 
 
THE RECORD OFFICE IN LONDON. 167 
 
 vented, from its inception to its completion in the building. 
 This chapel is perhaps the most magnificent in England. 
 The Book of Ir dentures is wrapped in rich velvet and 
 enclosed in a strong box with the seal of the King upon 
 the lock, and is said to have cost at least five thousand 
 dollars, a great sum in those days. 
 
 The National Museum shall also receive a copy of the 
 Great Seal of England, a fine head of Queen Victoria 
 forming one impression, sent by Lord Chancellor Cairns 
 to General Schenck, the United States minister in London, 
 in response to his request. 
 
 An original portrait of Charles II. is lent to the Na- 
 tional Museum by Mr. William Thompson, the accomplished 
 American consul at Southampton, and a native of Phila- 
 delphia. This is a bust-portrait, originally in the collec- 
 tion of the late Duke of Buckingham, at Stowe, and 
 recently came into the possession of Mr. Thompson. 
 
 As an appropriate pendant to the gift of the British Lord 
 Chancellor to the Exhibition, I take from an ancient vol- 
 ume now before me a letter from William Penn, in which 
 he announced that the Great Seal of England had that day 
 been affixed to the royal patent or charter of Pennsylvania, 
 under date 4th of March, a.d. 1681. This venerable 
 document, which is still preserved, and now hangs in the 
 office of the Secretary of State at Harrisburg, is written 
 on strong parchment in the old English handwriting, each 
 line underscored with red ink and the borders gorgeously 
 decorated with heraldic devices. The satisfaction of Penn 
 on this occasion, and the delicacy of his feelings with 
 regard to the name bestowed on the province, may be seen 
 in the following letter to his friend, Robert Turner : 
 
 5th of 1st Mo., 1681. 
 Dear Friend : My true love in the Lord s;ilutes thee and dear friends 
 thai love tin- Lord's precious truth in those parts. Thine I have, ami for 
 my business here, know that after many waitings, watchings, solieitings, 
 
1 68 THE RECORD OFFICE IN LONDON. 
 
 and disputes in Council, this day my country was confirmed to me under 
 the Great Seal of England, with large powers and privileges, by the name 
 of Pennsylvania : a name the King would give it in honor of my father. I 
 chose New Wales, being, as this, a pretty hilly country, but Penn being 
 Welsh for a head, as Penmanmoire in Wales, and Penrith in Cumberland, 
 and Penn in Buckinghamshire, the highest land in England, called this 
 Pennsylvania, which is the high or head woodlands ; for I proposed, when the 
 Secretary, a Welshman, refused to have it called New Wales, Sylvania, and 
 they added Penn to it ; and though I much opposed it, and went to the 
 King to have it struck out and altered, he said it was past, and would take 
 it upon him ; nor could twenty guineas move the Under Secretary to vary 
 the name, for I feared lest it should be looked on as a vanity in me, and 
 not as a respect in the King, as it truly was to my father, whom he often 
 mentions with praise. Thou mayest communicate my grant to Friends and 
 expect shortly my proposals. 
 
 It is a clear and just thing, and my God that has given it me through 
 many difficulties, will, I believe, bless and make it the seed of a nation. I 
 shall have a tender care to the government, that it be well laid at first. No 
 more now, but dear love in the truth. Thy true friend, 
 
 William Penn. 
 
 The royal patent or charter of Pennsylvania consists of 
 twenty-three articles, and is too long for insertion here, 
 but the short preamble is worth transcribing. It declares 
 that William Penn's application for the territory arose out 
 of " a commendable desire to enlarge the British Empire, 
 and promote such useful commodities as may be a benefit 
 to the King and his dominions ; and also to reduce the 
 savage nations by just and gentle manners to the love of 
 civil society and the Christian religion." 
 
 Nor would this triple chapter of history be complete 
 without the letter of William Penn to the inhabitants of 
 Pennsylvania, dated " London, 8th of the month called 
 April, 16S1:" 
 
 My FRIENDS : I wish you all happiness here and hereafter. These are 
 to let you know that it hath pleased God, in His providence, to cast you 
 within my lot and care. It is a business that, though I never undertook 
 before, yet God hath given me an understanding of my duty, and an honest 
 mind to do it uprightly. I hope you will not be troubled af your change, 
 and the King's choice, for you are now fixed at the mercy of no governor 
 
THE PEABODY BUILDINGS. 169 
 
 that comes to make his fortune great; you shall be governed by laws of 
 your own making, and live a free, an J, if you will, a sober aiui industrious 
 people. I shall not usurp the right of any, or oppress his person. God 
 has furnished me with a better resolution, and has given me his grace to 
 keep it. In short, whatever sober and free men can reasonably desire for 
 the security and improvement of their own happiness, I shall heartily com- 
 ply with, and in five months resolve, if it please God, to see you. In the 
 mean time, pray submit to the commands of my deputy, so far as they 
 are consistent with the law, and pay him those dues (that formerly you paid 
 to the order of the Governor of New York) for my use and benefit; and 
 so I wish God to direct you in the way of righteousness, and therein pros- 
 per you and your children after you. 
 
 I am your true friend, 
 
 William Penn. 
 
 History, which teaches by example, as the philosopher 
 tells us, has never had a field, at least in modern days, like 
 that opening before us next year, and whether we look 
 back or forecast the future with the aid of such lights as 
 these three mementos, we shall write a page in the great 
 volume of human experience in 1S76 that will surprise and 
 elevate the world. 
 
 London, June, 1875. 
 
 XLIII. 
 
 The Peabody Buildings. 
 
 I have visited the new Peabody Buildings in company 
 with Sir Curtis Lampson, one of the original trustees. On 
 the 25th of May, 1S67, I saw, under the guidance of this 
 same gentleman, the first of these splendid edifices for the- 
 accommodation of the industrious poor of London, and 
 the difference of eight years was a very great surprise. For 
 order, cleanliness, and beauty of the several squares that 
 have since growl) up, the happiness and comfort of the in- 
 mates prove that the munificent plan of Mr. Peabody has 
 h 15 
 
170 
 
 THE PEABODY BUILDINGS. 
 
 been faithfully carried out by the trustees. I cannot better 
 illustrate the amazing growth of this almost royal benevo- 
 lence than by the " Report of the Trustees of the Peabody 
 Donation Fund for 1874." Ponder these figures carefully, 
 and you realize the unspeakable benefaction that an Amer- 
 ican citizen has conferred upon the poor of London : 
 
 The trustees of the Peabody Donation Fund submit to the public a re- 
 port of their proceedings and financial statement for the year ending the 
 31st of December, 1874. 
 
 As stated in the last report, the amount of the fund on the 31st of De- 
 cember, 1873, was .£578,059 9s. 5d. To this sum has been added, from 
 rents and interest on investments during the past year, £15,568 8s. 2d., 
 making the total fund on the 31st of December last, £593.627 17s. 7d., as 
 shown in the annexed statements of accounts. 
 
 During the year the trustees have spent in the purchase of land and 
 the erection of buildings the sum of ,£80,223 7 s - 3d., and the whole amount 
 thus expended since the creation of the trust has been ^380,284 19s. 7d., 
 leaving ^213,342 18s. available for future operations. 
 
 The two new blocks of buildings at Blackfriars, alluded to in the report 
 for 1873, are now occupied by forty-four families. 
 
 The new buildings in Duke Street and Stamford Street, with accommo- 
 dation for three hundred and fifty-two families, are completed, and will be 
 ready for occupation in April next ; and the six new blocks in East Lane 
 Bermondsey, for seventy-two families, will be opened during the summer. 
 Before the close of the year the trustees will have accommodation for thir- 
 teen hundred and seventy-six families. 
 
 Considerable progress has been made in the erection of twelve new 
 blocks of buildings on the Southwark Street site, which will contain two 
 hundred and sixty-four separate tenements, but these will not be ready 
 for occupation until 1876. 
 
 The number of families in residence at the end of the year was nine 
 hundred and fifty-four, consisting of three thousand eight hundred and 
 fifteen individuals — an average of four persons to each family. The aver- 
 age weekly wages of the head of each family was £1 3s. 3d., varying from 
 £1 os. 6d. at Chelsea, to £1 4s. 2d. at Spitalfields and Blackfriars. The 
 average rent of each dwelling was 3s. nd. per week, and that of each room 
 is. iod. No charge is made for water; and the weekly rent includes the 
 use of bath-room and laundry. 
 
 The net returns from all the buildings now opened show an income of 
 £6426 12s. 8d. per annum, being at the rate of 2J per cent, upon the capi- 
 tal expended. 
 
VISIT TO THE EMPRESS EUGENIE. 
 
 171 
 
 The trustees have pleasure in stating that the buildings last erected not 
 only give to the tenants greater conveniences and larger rooms, but return 
 a higher percentage upon the outlay than those first built. 
 
 In consequence of scarlet fever having been so extensively prevalent 
 during a portion of the past year in the east of London, the number of 
 deaths in the buildings at Shadwell was beyond that of any previous year; 
 but notwithstanding this the death-rate in the whole of the buildings taken 
 together was only 23 per 1000; but omitting Shadwell, the death-rate in 
 the other buildings was as low as 17.4 per 1000. 
 
 London, June, 1875. 
 
 XL IV. 
 
 Visit to the Empress Eugenie. 
 
 Chiselhurst (Kent) is a lovely village, with a popula- 
 tion of three thousand three hundred, about forty minutes 
 by rail from Charing Cross. You can walk from the sta- 
 tion, if the weather is fine, to Camden House, the English 
 residence of Eugenie, ex-Empress of the French; but as 
 the day was gloomy we drove over in a fly, and reached 
 the outer gate in about twenty minutes. As we were ex- 
 pected, we had not long to wait before our presentation. 
 Camden House, the residence of her Majesty, was chosen 
 after she had landed at Ryde, in the Isle of Wight, on the 
 9th of September, 1870, having escaped from Paris in the 
 midst of the Revolution on the 4th of the same month. 
 Her passage over the Channel was in itself a romance. 
 The mansion is of three stories, built of dark stone beau- 
 tifully inlaid with white, with two wings, and is handsomely 
 located in a fine park. 
 
 We were conducted by a chamberlain from the anteroom 
 into the drawing-room, where the Empress received us, 
 and I was immediately impressed by her exceeding grace 
 and beauty. Time has dealt very gently with her. Born 
 
172 
 
 VISIT TO THE EMPRESS EUGENIE. 
 
 May 5, 1826, she lately entered into her fiftieth year, but 
 does not look forty, and she seemed in better health and 
 wore a brighter aspect than when I saw her in the Paris 
 Palace of Industry on the 2d of July, 1867, when the Em- 
 peror Napoleon distributed the prizes to the successful com- 
 petitors at the Universal Exposition of that year. She was 
 dressed in deep mourning, without the slightest ornament, 
 and, speaking English perfectly, she opened the conversa- 
 tion and asked questions without reserve in regard to our 
 International Centennial Exhibition. I described the ex- 
 tent of Fairmount Park, the several groups of buildings 
 now in course of construction, the amount of money raised, 
 the action of the National Government, and the visit of 
 r the President of the United States. Here she quietly in- 
 terrupted me by stating that she had read with great pleas- 
 ure the statement of his visit and of his satisfaction at the 
 progress of the work. She seemed to be anxious to know 
 whether any of the French princes had been invited, and 
 I told her Majesty that the President of the United States 
 had simply invited existing governments, and that none of 
 the royal princes of any country had been specially asked. 
 To her question whether I thought the Prince Imperial 
 would be well received, I ventured to express the opinion 
 that his welcome would be most cordial, and' that our people 
 held the fact in grateful remembrance that to the statesman 
 ship and liberality of the First Napoleon we were indebted 
 for the acquisition of the valuable territory of Louisiana, 
 and that this, together with the recollection of French 
 sympathy during our struggle for independence, was one 
 of the most cherished of our national reminiscences. I 
 ran over the list of the governments that had made prepar- 
 ations to be present next year. Alluding to the subject 
 of free-trade, which she said she did not feel herself com- 
 petent to discuss, she gracefully intimated that she thought 
 some provision should b made by which thedelicate fab- 
 
VISIT TO THE EMPRESS EUGENIE. 
 
 173 
 
 rics of France might have a partial drawback, when sold 
 in America, on account of the necessary deterioration of 
 the goods from exposure in a sea-voyage, and the changes 
 constantly taking place in fashionable attire. 
 
 The gentleman who kindly accompanied and introduced 
 me, our good friend, the Chevalier VVikoff, inquired for the 
 Prince Imperial, when we were informed that he was with 
 his battery at the military camp at Aldershot, and she 
 regretted that he was not present in order that he might 
 participate in the conversation. before retiring I ex- 
 pressed the hope that her Majesty would send us some 
 token of the interest she manifested in the Exhibition, 
 to which she responded by saying, "Ah! what have I to 
 send? What can I send? I am here simply the tenant of 
 another's house ; all you see about me I have no control 
 over." But I am not without hope that the suggestion 
 will bear good fruit ; and on renewing the request that 
 she might consent to let her son come to America next 
 year she said, " I fear that is impossible. I should like 
 myself to be present in Philadelphia; I have always felt 
 the greatest interest in the United States. But we are 
 the creatures of circumstances; we cannot tell what may 
 transpire to-day, or to-morrow, or a icw months hence" — 
 evidently referring to political contingencies. Just as she 
 was bidding us adieu I placed in her hand one of the large 
 lithographs of the Main Exposition Building, and since my 
 return to London have forwarded her the last publication 
 by the Centennial Commissioners containing engravings of 
 the other edifices. 
 
 It is impossible to convey an idea of the winning grace 
 and candor of this lovely lady; I should rather say cor- 
 diality than candor; nor would the word "dignity" fairly 
 typify the peculiar charm alike of her manner and her con- 
 versation. She talks fluently, articulates her words clearly, 
 and surprised me by her stores of information, showing 
 
 15* 
 
i74 
 
 VISIT TO THE EMPRESS EUGENIE. 
 
 that she was a close reader and thinker. Others were wait- 
 ing in the anteroom as we passed out into the park, and 
 on our road to the station I did not hesitate to give utter- 
 ance to my satisfaction at one of the most delightful inter- 
 views of my life. A republican myself, more so now than 
 ever, I could easily perceive the great influence she exer- 
 cised over her husband. 
 
 The Empress Eugenie continues to enjoy in her exile 
 the warm friendship of Queen Victoria, with whom she 
 frequently interchanges visits. She is everywhere called 
 the Empress, not the ex-Empress, and receives royal honors. 
 Within the last two weeks she visited, in company with the 
 royal family, the camp at Aldershot, and saw her son taking 
 part in the great review which attracted so much attention. 
 Whatever may be her fate hereafter, she will ever be an 
 object of deep interest, as she has always enjoyed unbounded 
 popularity for the purity of her life, her charity, and mu- 
 nificence. It will never be forgotten that during the preva- 
 lence of the cholera in France, she everywhere visited the 
 hospitals, utterly regardless of danger. Her name will live 
 in history as one of the most successful and accomplished 
 women of her age. France is, I think, at this moment, 
 passing under the republican form of government. The 
 moderation of the Republican leaders is not less apparent 
 than their unity and determination, and while the Empress 
 Eugenie would undoubtedly add new lustre to the position 
 of Dowager Empress of France should her son ascend the 
 throne of his father, yet I think a safer, if not a more bril- 
 liant, destiny would be that retirement in private life in 
 which, while she may not be surrounded by as many flat- 
 terers as she would find in Paris, she would certainly escape 
 the always present danger that hedges around the occupant 
 of imperial power among that changeful and volatile people. 
 
 London, July, 1S75. 
 
CHATHAM DOCK-YARD. 
 
 «75 
 
 XLV. 
 
 Chatham Dock-yard. — British Iron-clads. 
 
 In company with Messrs. Cramp, the well-known ship- 
 builders of Philadelphia, I have paid a long-desired visit 
 to the celebrated Chatham Dock-yard and work-shops, dis- 
 tant about an hour and thirty minutes from London. It is 
 not easy to secure admission to this famous institution, 
 England is not one of the Powers that publish their inven- 
 tions in gunnery and preparations for war, and for the ob- 
 vious reason that they do not desire to be copied or to be 
 advertised. When the hour of conflict comes she is 
 always "ready." These great docks, so called, and the 
 shops with which they are connected, now entirely de- 
 voted to the construction of the iron-clad navy of England, 
 are admitted to be the most extensive in the world. They 
 are situated near the town of Chatham, on the Medway, a 
 tidal river. 
 
 There are four wet-docks, built out of solid stone, massive 
 and grand indeed ; the tidal basin, the largest, being four 
 hundred by ninety-six feet. The Rupert, an iron ram, was 
 in dock as we passed, a magnificent and colossal mass of 
 guns and armor-plates, looking a true thunder-bearer. It 
 belongs to the second class; its armor is twelve inches thick 
 on the breastwork and twelve to fourteen inches on the 
 turret ; its armament is two eighteen-ton guns. The ram, 
 its main feature, has its sharp point eight feet below the 
 water-line and twelve feet in advance of the upright por- 
 tion of the stem. It makes fifteen knots an hour, and is 
 intended for quick work, like the ram which played such 
 havoc with the Union fleet at Hampton Roads in 1S62. 
 
1 7 6 CHA THA M DOCK- YARD. 
 
 The Temeraire, another of these fast rams, was still on the 
 stocks; horse-power, nine thousand; eight, guns, four of 
 them of twenty-five tons ; nine-inch armor — a terrible 
 machine. The Alexandra, also in the dock ; horse-power, 
 nine thousand; armament, like the Temeraire; recently 
 launched by the Princess of Wales, after whom she is 
 named. Two other high-speeded vessels were finishing, 
 each with eighteen sixty-four-pounder.s. 
 
 Standing on the main deck of the Alexandra, we looked 
 out upon the busy scene — in one respect at least not unlike 
 the sight that met my eyes two years ago, when I visited 
 League Island, near Philadelphia, the iron-clad navy depot 
 of our own country ; only this was the work of years, begun 
 in the reign of Elizabeth, when the "wooden walls" of 
 England terrified the world and swept the seas; now, 
 wholly given up to iron-clad monitors and rams. The 
 outlook was wonderful. The ships in ordinary, in dock, 
 and in repair; the mighty ship-houses; the rope-house, 
 eleven hundred and forty feet long and fifty feet wide, 
 where cables two feet in girth and seven hundred feet in 
 length are made ; the mammoth saw-mills, erected by the 
 elder Brunei, with eight saw-frames, for one to thirty saws, 
 impelled by a mammoth engine, capable of eighty revolu- 
 tions of the saws in a minute, and slicing and shaping the 
 giant trees of Norway with lightning quickness; the smith- 
 shops, with forty forges, where anchors are made; the mast- 
 house, two hundred feet long; then the rolling-mills, where 
 iron plates twelve inches thick are made for these grim 
 monsters ; the engine-house, etc. 
 
 So vast is this depository that the men are conveyed to 
 and from work by rail, and the officers visit and superin- 
 tend their post in dummies, which skim along the level 
 roads with the silent velocity of fireflies. The Royal Ma- 
 rine Barracks are here, and officers and men were on parade 
 as we passed in and out. I did not stop to ask how many 
 
BRITISH IR ON- CLADS. 
 
 177 
 
 workmen were employed in the docks, and shops, and ships 
 — that might have seemed impertinent. 
 
 The present iron-clad navy of Great Britain, used for 
 the defence of her own coast and colonies, and for visiting 
 different portions of the globe, consists of sixty-two ves- 
 sels, divided into seven classes, viz. : Four first class, — the 
 Devastation, two hundred and eighty-six feet long, sixty- 
 two feet in extreme breadth ; the Thunderer, about the 
 same size; the Inflexible and Fury, fourteen hundred 
 tons larger; all nearly iron-clad, capable of immense 
 resistance and of throwing metal of enormous weight to 
 a great distance. Second class, — the rams Rupert and 
 Hotspur. Third class, — nine mastless turret-ships for 
 coast defence, heavily armored, and armed with twelve- 
 ton guns. Fourth class, — five first-rate iron ships for 
 cruising, of the Temeraire and Alexandra style. Fifth class, 
 — ten second-rate iron ships, with twelve-ton guns behind 
 six-inch armor. Sixth class, — seventeen third-class, same 
 armor and armament, and capable of great speed. Seventh 
 class, — eleven iron-clads for coast defence. I have not 
 deemed it necessary to add the numerous iron -armored 
 and wooden vessels to this list, nor several floating bat- 
 teries. This naval force is continually being added to, 
 and it is estimated that from fifteen to twenty millions of 
 dollars in gold are annually spent in keeping this vast iron 
 fleet in repair. Of course an emergency will increase this 
 outlay. Much may be said for such busy and expensive 
 preparations by the English. Apart from the plea that 
 they must not be caught napping, the fact that hundreds 
 of thousands of persons are kept employed in the various 
 establishments, military and naval, who must otherwise be 
 without work, and therefore full of idle mischief, is a great 
 point. Whatever may be said of our own country, Europe 
 is not in a condition to disarm. On all sides we read of 
 new inventions in gunnery, new experiments in firing, new 
 
 H* 
 
xyS RELICS OF EARLY LONDON. 
 
 torpedoes, massive armies, and powerful navies. A spark 
 may explode the magazine, and Great Britain had far better 
 be in a situation to defend herself and to protect others 
 than to be found a prey to neglect in the hour of revolu- 
 tion from within or invasion from without. 
 London, June, 1875. 
 
 XLVI. 
 
 Relics of Early London. 
 
 The National Safe Deposit building, at the Mansion 
 House, London, was lately opened, with fitting ceremonial, 
 in the presence of a distinguished party, by Mr. Puleston, 
 M.P., chairman of the Company which owns and has had 
 it constructed. The Safe Deposit Company was organ- 
 ized upon the idea of the "Fidelity" in Philadelphia, and 
 the vast building is an elaborated extension of the noble 
 structures of the same class of which several are now in 
 Philadelphia. Nowhere in the world is such a place of 
 security so needed as in London. The things lost or 
 stolen in this human hive are countless. A few months 
 ago jewels worth a quarter of a million of dollars were 
 stolen from Lord Dudley at one of the railroad stations, 
 and our countrywoman, Mrs. Paran Stevens, has just been 
 robbed, by her French maid, of diamonds and valuables 
 estimated at seventy-five thousand dollars. 
 
 In the heavy excavations necessary to establish the 
 foundations of this massive edifice, the Company's work- 
 men came upon a perfect mine of Roman antiquities. It 
 is a strange fact that as modern enterprise was preparing 
 to preserve the wealth of the present age, deep down in 
 the earth were discovered the. proofs of the riches of Lon- 
 don nineteen hundred years ago. The Romans remained 
 
RELICS OF EARLY LONDON. 
 
 179 
 
 masters of England for over four hundred years, and 
 the grandeur of Britain began with their occupation. 
 Those who trod the Old World twenty centuries since lie 
 in dust, but many of their works and weapons of war 
 survive in the midst of their own ashes, and modern Lon- 
 don overlays a perfect storehouse of antique mementos. 
 Mr. Puleston found these eloquent revelations of the past 
 so many and so valuable that he has based an essay upon 
 them crowded with useful information. What his workmen 
 threw up has been utilized wonderfully by his graceful pen, 
 so that in his Report you fairly see the Romans in their 
 London homes, and it is with an odd feeling that you find 
 the likeness between their ways and ours. Nearly twenty 
 centuries have elapsed since they lived and died like us; 
 not, indeed, with all our conveniences and comforts, but in 
 many things using the exact originals from which we have 
 copied in England and America. There are no signs of 
 steam and electricity and the wonders born of these twin 
 genii, but there is enough to show that we have not risen 
 too high or gone too fast to discard the experience of 
 these men of the vanished centuries. Among the relics 
 discovered in the excavations prior to laying the founda- 
 tions of the splendid edifice were the following: 
 
 Red glazed pottery, of beautiful forms, mostly in bowl 
 shape, beautifully decorated with figures of birds and ani- 
 mals and foliage. The variety seems to be very large. 
 
 Roman-British specimens, chiefly urns, exactly like those 
 now in use. 
 
 An immense quantity of stylii, the instruments with which 
 the Romans wrote on their tablets. 
 
 A variety of knives and daggers, with handles and rings 
 to hold or hang up by. 
 
 Keys and bolts of every description, made different from 
 those in modern use, but very like in form. 
 
 Bronze ornaments for the person, brooches, and toilette 
 
T So canine exhibition. 
 
 bijouterie ; some are enameled. Also the pins for fasten- 
 ing garments, now in use ; seals, lockets, tweezers, hair- 
 pins, etc. 
 
 Bronze egg-spoons, chain-work, etc. 
 
 Coins, brass and copper, of which there are seventy 
 specimens, proving the other discoveries by their dates 
 and vignettes. 
 
 Many miscellaneous objects, — fragments of glass, wooden 
 spindles, horse gear, chisels and other tools of iron, and 
 a lot of leather work, with sandals and shoes resembling 
 what we wear to-day. 
 
 Mr. Puleston closes his sketch as follows: "If in the 
 small area occupied by the premises of the National Safety 
 Deposit Company it has been possible to bring together so 
 many illustrations of the early occupation of our city, who 
 can say what yet remains beneath the surface of adjacent 
 sites to corroborate or correct opinions which have been 
 expressed by past and present writers on the history of 
 Roman London ?" 
 
 London, July, 1875. 
 
 XLVII. 
 
 Canine Exhibition. — Home for Dogs. — Edwin Forrest's " Dog of Mon- 
 
 targis." 
 
 The apparent scarcity of wandering dogs in the streets 
 of London surprises many an American. Constantinople 
 is said to be the dog-heaven, and there is no feature in the 
 towns of the United States more unpleasant than the mul- 
 titudinous canine population, and the consequent hydro- 
 phobic panic every summer. In England, however, there 
 is a systematic effort to improve the canine species, and the 
 result is their marked absence from the highways. There 
 
CANINE EXHIBITION. 181 
 
 is not quite as much care taken, perhaps, in the rearing of 
 dogs as in the breeding of horses, cows, sheep, and other 
 valuable animals, but when you are told that an exhibition 
 of dogs at the Crystal Palace is one of the most attractive 
 of the present attractions of that brilliant resort, you will 
 understand that the system has become a sort of commerce, 
 and that large sums of money are paid for the different 
 varieties. The published report of the grand national ex- 
 hibition of sporting and other dogs at the Crystal Palace 
 on the first four days of June of this year is a singular 
 document. 
 
 Among the bloodhounds which belong to the first class 
 the price of the dog called " Rival," three years and nine 
 months old, was five hundred pounds, and that of " Rolla," 
 one year and eleven months old, five hundred guineas. 
 Among the mastiffs, the price of the "Champion Turk," 
 seven years and three months old, the dog that has won 
 more than thirty first prizes and cups and is of immense 
 size, is five thousand pounds (twenty-five thousand dollars), 
 while that of the mastiff named "Granby," which won 
 the first medals for 1874 at the Crystal Palace, for the same 
 year at Northampton, and for the years 1873-74 at Ports- 
 mouth, an animal nearly as large as a lion, is ten thousand 
 pounds sterling or fifty thousand dollars ! The price of the 
 mastiff known as "Duchess" is one thousand pounds ster- 
 ling, while in a list of one hundred and seventy-one of the 
 same breed there are four at one thousand pounds, six at 
 five hundred pounds, two at three hundred pounds, six at 
 two hundred and fifty pounds, nine at one hundred pounds, 
 ten at fifty pounds, and the remainder varying in price 
 from twenty pounds to five pounds. Some of the mastiff 
 puppies commanded prices ranging from one hundred 
 pounds to twenty.-five pounds. Several of the St. Bernard 
 rough-coat dogs were held at two thousand pounds apiece, 
 one at one thousand pounds, and a number more from three 
 
 16 
 
1 82 CANINE EXHIBITION. 
 
 hundred to twenty pounds. The St. Bernard puppies 
 brought from twenty guineas down to ten. One Newfound- 
 land dog brought one thousand pounds, one five hundred 
 pounds, some one hundred pounds, and several as low as 
 twenty pounds. The prices of the deerhounds ranged 
 from five hundred pounds to one hundred pounds. Of the 
 greyhounds, "St. Patrick" and " Warwick" were each held 
 at five thousand pounds, and "Lauderdale," "Queen 
 Bertha," and " Bit of Fun" at one thousand pounds each; 
 "Black Beauty" at five hundred pounds. Ten of the 
 pointers brought one thousand pounds each, a number five 
 hundred pounds, and others one hundred pounds and 
 fifty pounds. Among the setters I counted a large number 
 held at one thousand pounds each, and one, aged five 
 years, was labelled ten thousand pounds sterling. I 
 counted six retrievers at one thousand pounds each, and 
 very many from five hundred pounds to one hundred and 
 fifty pounds. Among the Irish water-spaniels, " Shamrock" 
 was held at one thousand pounds, the others at prices rang- 
 ing from one hundred pounds to fifty pounds. Six of the 
 spaniels were labelled for sale at one thousand pounds each, 
 two or three five hundred pounds, and a large variety from 
 five hundred pounds to two hundred pounds. Ten pounds 
 was regarded as a very reasonable charge. There were 
 two hounds at five hundred pounds each. The beagles, not 
 exceeding fifteen inches high, ranged from one hundred 
 pounds to twenty pounds. There were nearly two hundred 
 fox-terriers, held at extraordinary rates, at least half a dozen 
 at one thousand pounds, and about twenty at five hundred 
 pounds, the others ranging from one hundred pounds to 
 fifty pounds, twenty pounds, ten pounds, and five pounds. 
 The sheep-dogs were also very high, a dozen commanding 
 one thousand pounds each, and others five hundred pounds, 
 very few running as low as twenty pounds. A Dalmatian, 
 known as " Crib," nine years old, was held at ten thou- 
 
CANINE EXHIBITION. 
 
 183 
 
 sand pounds sterling! Another, called "Sancho," three 
 years and five months old, price six hundred pounds. The 
 bull-dogs ranged from two hundred and fifty pounds to 
 twenty-five pounds. One bull-terrier, "Young Puss," was 
 held at one thousand pounds sterling; another, belonging 
 to the same owner, at the same price. This seemed to be 
 a favorite breed. Many commanded one hundred pounds 
 each, and a few ran as low as five pounds. Black-and-tan 
 terriers exceeding fourteen pounds weight commanded one 
 hundred pounds each, very few as low as five pounds. One 
 of the drop-eared blue Skye terriers, named "Sam," was 
 held at ten thousand pounds sterling ! There was a Dandy 
 Dinmont terrier, called " Toper," price one thousand 
 pounds, and another called " Macbeth," price five hundred 
 pounds — general rates from fifty pounds to five pounds. A 
 Yorkshire terrier called "Mozart," price one thousand 
 pounds. The Bedlington terriers commanded from one 
 hundred pounds to five pounds; of one species called 
 " Dachshund," black and tan, three commanded one thou- 
 sand pounds, and the rest rated from one hundred pounds 
 down to five pounds. There was a white Pomeranian, six 
 months old, named "Tory," price one thousand pounds. 
 The pug dogs were held at from one thousand pounds; 
 "Tomahawk," at five hundred pounds; several at one 
 hundred pounds, and a number at from sixty pounds to 
 ten pounds. One of these pugs, named "Chung," six 
 years and eight months old, was held at ten thousand 
 pounds sterling. Maltese dogs, several at one hundred 
 pounds, two at fifty pounds, three at twenty pounds. King 
 Charles spaniels, from one hundred pounds to ten pounds. 
 Italian greyhounds, two hundred pounds, one hundred and 
 fifteen pounds, and fifty pounds each. Toy terriers, smooth- 
 haired, not exceeding five pounds weight, commanded as 
 high as from three hundred pounds to two hundred pounds 
 apiece, some one hundred pounds, and a large number fifty 
 
!84 HOME FOR DOGS. 
 
 pounds, thirty pounds, and twenty pounds. The sporting 
 puppies were held at a charge of about five pounds each ; 
 non -sporting puppies, twenty guineas, ten guineas, and five 
 guineas. An immense assortment of harriers was exhib- 
 ited, but they were so valuable as not to be offered for sale. 
 Many of these were owned by clergymen. The Prince 
 and Princess of Wales, and most of the nobility, figured 
 largely in the catalogue as owners. There have also been 
 dog-shows in Ireland, the west of England, and other 
 places, very attractive and successful. 
 
 If the aggregate of money spent upon pet dogs could be 
 faithfully set forth, it would startle many. As you walk the 
 streets of London you see hundreds of thousands of these 
 little animals carried or led by ladies, and it is a common 
 thing, as the nobility and gentry ride along in their splen- 
 did equipages, to see a variety of spaniels and poodles 
 resting on the costly cushions. Some of these pets are not 
 much larger than a cotton- or snow-ball, and with their fine, 
 fleecy covering, nothing else visible save their black, piercing 
 eyes, they present a laughable appearance. 
 
 In this connection the Temporary Home for Lost and 
 Starving Dogs, in Battersea Park, is worthy of notice. A 
 humane nobleman, the Marquis Townshend, is President of 
 this organization ; and the treasurer's report shows an 
 annual expenditure of over two thousand pounds (ten 
 thousand dollars) for wages, food, medicine, printing, and 
 interest on mortgage. In order to remove any induce- 
 ment for dog-stealing no fee is paid on the delivery of lost 
 or starving canines at the Home, the chief reliance being 
 upon the duty and humanity of the police. There is a 
 large list of donations and legacies, many of the former 
 being from anonymous hands. This establishment was 
 established in i860 by the late Mrs. Tealby, who, although 
 not possessed of large means, was its unwearied benefac- 
 tress. The late Mrs. John Hamilton left a legacy to the 
 
HOME FOR DOGS. 185 
 
 institution of a thousand pounds, and others are following 
 her example. Thirty-two hundred dogs were last year 
 either restored to their former owners or sent to new homes, 
 being an increase of ten hundred and ninety-four over the 
 previous year. After being kept for three days the keeper 
 is empowered to dispose of inmates of the Home either by 
 death or sale, but they are usually kept in their pens for a 
 week, and sometimes much longer. Prussic acid is used to 
 poison them, which by its almost instantaneous effect is 
 considered the most humane method. The Home affords 
 accommodation for six hundred dogs, although there are 
 not usually more than half that number. All brought in 
 during one day are put into a double pen, with a yard for 
 exercise, and small cells are provided for special cases, such 
 as quarrelsome or afflicted dogs. It is a singular fact that 
 among thousands of dogs brought into the Home there 
 has been no case of hydrophobia, which is attributable, no 
 doubt, to the absence of excessive heat in this moderate 
 climate. 
 
 A dog-show during our Centennial Exhibition would be 
 an attractive feature. Our Western and Southern people 
 might teach their British cousins some new things in canine 
 culture. The dog has been the subject of prose and poetry, 
 of the pencil of the painter and the chisel of the sculptor, 
 from Walter Scott to Byron, and from Landseer to Foley. 
 Gradually these English habits are creeping into our Ameri- 
 can civilization, and I have known men to become as ex- 
 cited over a good hunter and women to fall into as many 
 ecstasies over a beautiful poodle in Philadelphia and New 
 York, as the descendants of their more ancient ancestors 
 in London. Edwin Forrest had a peculiar fondness for 
 this animal. As you ascended the main stairway of his 
 residence in Philadelphia, you faced on the first landing 
 the painting of the "Dog of Montargis," which he habit- 
 ually characterized to his visitors as a portrait of the best 
 
 16* 
 
1 86 FOURTH OF JULY IN LONDON. 
 
 friend he ever had in the world — the friend which had fol- 
 lowed him in the varying and trying fortunes of his early 
 life, and more than once played with him on the boards of 
 the Western towns when he acted the character in that now 
 almost forgotten melodrama. He has gone to his long 
 home, and yet I have no doubt that this expression of a 
 brilliant but not happy life will often be recalled by men 
 who have passed through the same sad experience. 
 London, July, 1875. 
 
 XLVIII. 
 
 Fourth of July in London. — Journalism. — Political Aspect. 
 
 Far and wide the proceedings of a great American fete 
 at the Crystal Palace, in honor of "Independence Day," 
 have been published in Europe. Even the most critical 
 and sardonic journals have not found fault. All the Lon- 
 don dailies made full and favorable reports. . The discre- 
 tion of our chairman, the American minister, General 
 Schenck — the genial welcome of Mr. McCullagh Torrens, 
 M.P. from Pimlico, in his reply to "Great Britain and 
 the United States" — the manly impromptu answer of Gen- 
 eral Lucius Fairchild to "Concord at home and abroad" 
 — have touched the English tortoise with a coal of living 
 fire. Many prominent English people were present, and 
 delighted. I sat near a bevy of British cousins, and noted 
 their surprised pleasure. Brother Jonathan has a character 
 here for gush and brag which he does not deserve. He is 
 advertised as a loud fellow, clad in a coat of stars, striped 
 breeches, and an American eagle for a hat ; and when he 
 gets up to speak our quiet relations generally expect an 
 explosion. At the Crystal Palace dinner there was every 
 
METROPOLITAN JOURNALISM. 187 
 
 possible temptation to do his worst. He did not yield to 
 it, but did his best. Easy, natural, unaffected, and candid, 
 without rudeness, Jonathan captured all hands and dis- 
 armed criticism. There was no sensibility, and no boast- 
 ing, and the result is a harvest of the kindliest memories. 
 
 I have seen a good many of the English country papers 
 since our Independence fete, and they all speak in one 
 kindly tone. Have you any idea of the number of British 
 newspapers and periodicals? Let me tell you that there 
 are in London alone twenty-four dailies, two hundred and 
 ninety weeklies, fourteen fortnightlies, and four hundred 
 and sixty-four monthlies. From this one fact you can 
 realize the character of a metropolis which compresses 
 within twenty miles about four millions of people, almost 
 the population of Pennsylvania. These various papers 
 serve to illustrate the ideas at work in these four mil- 
 lions of minds. There are four American papers : the 
 Anglo-American Times, the Cosmopolitan, the American 
 Traveller, and the American Press. Then we have at 
 least one hundred and fifty religious, twenty devoted to 
 sports of all kinds, twenty-five to finance, eighteen to chil- 
 dren, twenty to science, five to architecture, four to the 
 army and the navy, thirteen to farming and horticulture, 
 ten to art, eighteen to law and medicine, five to ultra-lib- 
 eral or republican ideas, one to matrimony, eight to foreign 
 affairs, three to butchers, five to fashion, six to temperance, 
 ten illustrated, five to Jews, one to tailors, two to homoe- 
 opathy, besides a number devoted to every sort of scheme 
 and theme. I should say there are hundreds of papers 
 printed in London not included in this list. 
 
 You will observe the large proportion of religious pub- 
 lications. Here you have the better inner view of England. 
 It is an intensely Biblical country. Divided into many- 
 sects, each with its peculiar tenet, there is a constant 
 reaching for theological literature, especially among the 
 
1 88 POLITICAL ASPECT OF EUROPE. 
 
 Protestants. The Established Church prints enormously, 
 but the Dissenters literally devour religious books and news- 
 papers. When you recollect that there are eleven millions 
 who do not belong to the Established Church in England 
 and Wales alone, and that the adhering membership of the 
 Established Church in England and Wales is not thirteen 
 millions, you will see that this dissenting element is some- 
 thing of a power in itself. 
 
 Many people distress themselves about a "certain war" 
 in Europe, and even in Parliament the declaration is com- 
 mon that the Continent is " an armed camp." The shadow 
 of a religious conflict, growing out of the supposed preten- 
 sions of the Catholics and their eagerness to recover their 
 lost temporalities, is offensively pushed into the foreground 
 of this discussion. I do not know — I cannot forecast a 
 future which disturbs so many strong minds; which has 
 enchained Mr. Gladstone and Cardinal Manning ; which 
 commands the attention of Bismarck in Germany, absorbs 
 Gambetta and Buffet and Rouher in France. These are 
 serious and sincere men, who have no motive but justice 
 to their several constituencies. Yet all of them anticipate 
 a religious war in Europe. Mr. Gladstone and his party 
 evidently think the Pope stands ready to embroil Europe 
 in a deadly struggle to recover his lost political prestige. 
 Bismarck denounces the German Catholics as the enemies 
 of Germanic order. The Cardinals at Rome appear to 
 think that the world is given over to Satan, because they 
 have been forced to part with political authority. 
 
 Admitting the perfect candor of these learned pundits, 
 what remains? What remains to the American who sits 
 in the upper tier of this vast world's theatre and calmly 
 watches the actors below? He may feel deeply mortified 
 at many things in his own country. He may see that while 
 the United States is only too glad to wash its daily dirty 
 linen in public, England takes care to push hers into the 
 
POLITICAL ASPECT. 1 89 
 
 closets of her confidential loyalty. He can take to him- 
 self a supreme and sufficient compensation. His own 
 country does not sleep on its arms, fearing a sudden sur- 
 prise from ambitious neighbors. The Pope could proclaim 
 infallibility from Washington without harm. Our people 
 would greet his Eminence with a politic enthusiasm only 
 less than that they would extend to Garibaldi. The ex- 
 iled Prince Imperial of France would be as welcome as the 
 Liberal leader Gambetta ; and the Prince of Wales would 
 be hailed with an outburst as expressive as that which would 
 be extended to John Bright. We may not, perhaps, be as 
 courtly as our friends abroad, but we need no armies to 
 keep the peace with our neighbors, no navies to protect our 
 waters from suppositious foes, nor censor to correct the 
 press. This is a great deal to say. I confess I am not 
 quite so sure about the way we shall manage our millions 
 next year. Whether we shall be able to feed and house 
 them as they will deserve and desire, and whether we shall 
 be altogether adjusted for our general obligation and op- 
 portunity, I trust to that same good Providence that has 
 carried us through -so far. Henry V. said to the French 
 Princess Katharine, after he had captured the French pro- 
 vinces, while he was laying siege to her heart, that "Nice 
 customs courtesy to great Kings." So, perhaps, our plain 
 American sovereigns may make a new road for us through 
 our next year's difficulties. At least we can imitate the 
 best which ancient nations have learned through their cen- 
 turies. What, indeed, would the world be without the 
 great right of copying after those who have gone before us? 
 London, July, 1875. . 
 
190 
 
 THE STREETS OF LONDON. 
 
 XLIX. 
 
 The Streets of London. — Ancient and Modern Lighting of a City. 
 
 Philadelphia is peculiarly fortified in her eight hundred 
 miles of city railroads, notwithstanding the objections that 
 have been raised to the increase of these modern highways; 
 and yet this fact, however consoling, must be discounted 
 by the condition of many of the streets through which 
 they run. So much has been lately done by Philadelphia, 
 burdened though she has been by business perplexities and 
 heavy taxes, that the hope may be fondly cherished that 
 she will not neglect the supreme duty of repairing and 
 improving her public roads. The streets of London, their 
 cost and their management, their durability and cleanli- 
 ness, are endless objects of interest for the stranger. When 
 you recollect that the area traversed by the metropolitan 
 police is five hundred and seventy-six square miles in ex- 
 tent, and is occupied by a population nearly as large as that 
 of Pennsylvania, crowded within a diameter of about thirty 
 miles, you may have some idea of the London streets, ave- 
 nues, and highways. Six hundred and thirty-five miles were 
 added to these streets between 1861 and 1871, and it is 
 estimated that there are at least four thousand miles of 
 them. Within this area it is estimated that a birth takes 
 place every five minutes, and a death every eight minutes. 
 London covers seventy-five thousand three hundred and 
 thirteen acres, and of its four million inhabitants the last 
 complete return shows that one hundred and thirty-nine 
 thousand are paupers. The total annual expenditure for 
 poor-relief, including poor rates and workhouses, orphan 
 asylums, roads, watering, lighting, sewerage, public works 
 
THE STREETS OF LONDON. 
 
 191 
 
 and police, is four million six hundred and sixty-seven thou- 
 sand nine hundred and forty-seven pounds, — over twenty- 
 three million dollars, — for the district of London alone. 
 
 There are several wooden pavements in London, all of 
 which seem to wear well, owing, doubtless, to the modera- 
 tion of the climate and the absence of severe cold in 
 winter or extreme warmth in summer. The main thorough- 
 fares are composed of sand and rubble, laid in deep founda- 
 tions, and then pressed and levelled by heavy steam rollers, 
 which as you pass along you find busily engaged repair- 
 ing old and forming new streets. The system of London 
 sewerage appears to be perfect. The sidewalks are all laid 
 with broad stone slabs, and such a thing as a rough or un- 
 even or dislocated pavement I have not seen since I have 
 resided in London. No matter how steadily and long it 
 rains, the streets are almost instantly dried by the first burst 
 of sunshine. Early in the morning the scavengers remove 
 whatever offal has accumulated during the night, and even 
 in the busiest hours of the day boys are employed to col- 
 lect the casual manure, which is instantly carted away. 
 
 It is unnecessary to go into the details of this vast met- 
 ropolitan government, but it is just to say that all these 
 stupendous works are conducted with rigid economy, and 
 made at comparatively low rates. Such a thing as a dis- 
 honest official is unknown. As a distinguished gentleman 
 told me in Manchester, in answer to my inquiry as to the 
 fidelity of the public servants, "any man holding a respon- 
 sible office in England would as soon think of putting his 
 hand into the fire as of using the public money for his own 
 purposes." 
 
 Of course, this wonderful system is the result of years, 
 though the present splendor of London is in a large degree 
 the growth of the last half-century. We read in old books 
 that an order of Council was promulgated during the threat- 
 ened approach of the Spanish Armada, in which every 
 
192 
 
 THE STREETS OF LONDON. 
 
 London householder was enjoined, under penalty of death 
 at the hands of the common hangman, to suspend a lighted 
 lamp before his door after sundown, and before the days 
 of Elizabeth the only lights in London streets on moonless 
 nights were supplied by cressets and lanterns hung by long 
 poles carried by the night watch ; and there are those living 
 who will tell you that they recollect the period when the 
 streets of London were deplorable sinks of filth and wretch- 
 edness. Now the broad blaze of gas at night improves, as 
 it were, these thousands of miles of smooth and solid 
 streets, making them pleasant to the pedestrian and a special 
 comfort to the horses. 
 
 There has been much complaint about the streets of 
 Philadelphia, and yet I learn from many of our friends 
 who frequently call to see me, and who rapturously describe 
 the Centennial work in Fairmount Park, that there is every- 
 where a determination to put our house in order for the 
 coming international gathering. Individuals can do much 
 to help the city government. Indeed, there is hardly a 
 man, woman, or child that cannot in some way contribute 
 to this desideratum ; and now that 1876 is everywhere dis- 
 cussed as the great event of the close of the century, now 
 that I can fearlessly say to our English and foreign friends 
 that the movement will be one worthy of our country and 
 of the time, and now that thousands who have never visited 
 us will pour into Philadelphia to take part in that historic 
 event, no words of mine are needed to inspire our people 
 to the discharge of this eminent obligation. 
 
 London, July, 1875. 
 
CENTENNIAL FEELING IN FRANCE. 
 
 193 
 
 L. 
 
 Centennial Feeling in France. — Diorama of the Siege of Paris. — American 
 Products and Securities. 
 
 On ray way to Berlin I remained over two days in Paris,' 
 to gather some data in regard to the American International 
 Exhibition. The result is most satisfactory. The details 
 would fill many pages. I supply only the general facts. 
 
 The six hundred thousand francs voted by the French 
 Chamber in June will be wisely distributed by M. Leon 
 Say, the Minister of Finance, and by M. De Someraud, 
 the head of the Department of International Exhibitions. 
 The work of the Government is largely aided by outside 
 voluntary effort. In such an exceptional case as the Amer- 
 ican Centennial, local American sympathy is indispensable. 
 Left to themselves, foreign nations might conclude that 
 our countrymen abroad are indifferent to the novel memo- 
 rial event ; but when tl ter take an active interest in 
 the work the energy of the accepting Governments is corre- 
 spondingly increased. We are especially fortunate in Paris, 
 as we are in London and Rome. Apart from the earnest 
 example of the American minister, Mr. Washburne, and 
 the American consul-general, Mr. Torbert, there is a work- 
 ing committee, of which General Sickles is the chairman, 
 which promotes careful organization of American influ- 
 ence in France. This committee devotes itself to ( the cir- 
 culation of information, the encouragement of the American 
 artists to be ready for the United States vessel that is to 
 take forward their pictures and statuary to the Exhibition 
 next winter, and to the answering of all questions not in 
 the exact province of the French authorities. Among the 
 1 17 
 
194 CENTENNIAL FEELING IN FRANCE. 
 
 members of the committee are Dr. Evans, Mr. E. Det- 
 mold, of New York; Mr. Stebbins, and Mr. Anderson. 
 From the speech of General Sickles at the last meeting, 
 held at the banking-house of Drexel, Harjes & Co., I take 
 the following significant extract : 
 
 " The history of the world may be read in vain for a like occasion to 
 celebrate the marvellous progress of a nation. From small beginnings our 
 foreign trade now amounts to more than a thousand millions of dollars a 
 year. We have created a literature rich in many branches of knowledge. 
 We have a standing army of school-teachers preparing the coming genera- 
 tion for their great heritage of liberty, prosperity, and power. In the use- 
 ful arts we are already rivals of the foremost nations; and what we have 
 done in sculpture, pointing, and architecture shows that we have not 
 neglected these essential types of culture. 
 
 " Our territory spans a continent, from ocean to ocean, embracing many 
 varieties of climate, many products, a population not inferior in number to 
 some of the most important European Commonwealths, and more cosmo- 
 politan than that of any other nation. Forty millions of freemen, enjoying 
 equal civil and political rights, obedient to the law, kneeling to their Divine 
 Master in their chosen places of worship, illustrate their fitness for self-gov- 
 ernment ; an imperial domain, and not an acre of it gained by conquest ; at 
 peace with all the world, and offering in the Tribunal of Geneva a sublime 
 example of power doing homage to justice. 
 
 " Our form of government is established. Under Providence, it has sur- 
 vived every peril and defied all evil predictions. It has fulfilled all that 
 Hamilton and Madison and Adams and Morris foretold of its adaptation 
 to our situation. And our" Centennial anniversary will afford a happj 
 opportunity to bury all that is painful in the past and to inaugurate a new 
 and grander epoch in our history. We have seen in the judicious action 
 of the Commissioners the best proof that all sectional and party feeling is 
 merged in the more elevated purpose of a national solemnity. The dis- 
 tinguished men chosen from all parts of the Union as managers of the 
 Exposition, as orators, marshals, and committees, all give evidence of the 
 broad patriotism which inspires and directs this great undertaking. 
 
 " We have, indeed, achieved quite enough as a nation to justify our pro- 
 I celebration. It is not merely that we have numbered a hundred 
 years, but that we have accomplished more, much more, in that period 
 has ever been done in the same time by any other country. In mere 
 [uity the Asiatic and European States may look down upon us as pa/r- 
 ; Wat in much that constitutes the true glory of an empire we are to- 
 day the teacher of older nations. 
 
 " I am told there is a disinclination in certain quarters in Europe to take 
 
D 10 RAMA OF THE SIEGE OF PARIS. 
 
 *95 
 
 part in our Exposition of the progress of the arts, because we adhere to a 
 protective tariff. This policy of ours has either retarded or promoted our 
 advancement. If other countries have surpassed us, let their products 
 prove it when compared with ours, and we shall not be slow to profit by 
 the lesson. If, on the other hand, we have done well, it should not move 
 others to wonder or cavil if we follow a path that seems to be approved by 
 our experience and success. In any event, if the free-traders in Europe 
 decline competition with us at Philadelphia, their absence will not be 
 attributed to their notions of political economy." 
 
 Many of the French have responded to this appeal, but 
 none have been so useful as M. Caubert, the gentleman 
 who spent a few weeks in America last spring, and who is 
 kindly remembered by our people of Philadelphia for his 
 enthusiastic friendship. His time and means have been 
 freely and constantly given, and in connection with Mr. 
 Gratiot Washburne, son of the minister, he is doing great 
 good. He is in correspondence with the leading manufac- 
 turers and artists, and sees daily the leading men of the 
 French Chambers and the editors of the most prominent 
 papers. 
 
 A visit to the new Diorama of the Siege of Paris, now 
 being rapidly executed for the company organized to place 
 it on exhibition in Philadelphia before and during the 
 Centennial year, was extremely gratifying. The prepara- 
 tions convinced me that it is to be a magnificent addition 
 to the great commemoration and a rich reward to the 
 originators. The building in which the diorama is being 
 painted is about as large as the new Adams Express office, 
 corner of Market and Sixteenth Streets, Philadelphia, well 
 lighted from a glass roof, and when we came in the artists 
 were busy on the gigantic picture, part of which was spread 
 out upon the spacious floor. The director of the work, 
 Lieutenant-Colonel Luinnard, an officer of the Army of the 
 Loire in the late war, was giving his orders to his brother- 
 artists. A man of splendid proportions, about forty years 
 of age, and over six feet in height, he is evidently the very 
 
196 DIORAMA OF THE SIEGE OF PARIS. 
 
 person to conduct and manage such a project. He re- 
 ceived us with true French courtesy, and showed us over 
 the place as he illustrated the comprehensive programme. 
 It is about the size of the " Siege of Paris" in the Champs 
 Elysees, one of the most attractive spectacles in that bril- 
 liant metropolis. The view is taken from the south side 
 of Paris, from the elevation known as Mont Chatillon, 
 and is different, more original, and more grand than the 
 outlook of that superb chef-d" ' asuvre. You are brought 
 face to face with the real features of the fight — those nearest 
 to you, horses and men, being life-size, and, at a certain 
 stage of the exhibition, batteries will be exploded to add 
 to the fidelity of the description. The optical illusion is 
 so perfect that you pass from these objects, and from trees 
 and houses the natural or usual size, and follow the city 
 and the conflict till the vision is as realistic as if you 
 looked down upon Philadelphia from the top of the State- 
 House. The Tuileries, the Madeleine, the Palais dTn- 
 dustrie, the Hotel des Invalides, the Place Vendome, the 
 Place de la Concorde, the new Opera- House, Notre Dame, 
 the river Seine, in fact the streets of Paris in that dread 
 hour, with a resolute people behind its walls and a deter- 
 mined foe without, are seen. 
 
 Colonel Luinnard has left nothing to conjecture. He 
 has reduced his picture to a system, and paints the battle- 
 field which he saw as he portrays the city in which he was 
 born. His many lay figures are dressed in the original 
 uniforms, whether French or German. Here is a dead 
 Landwchr ; here a writhing Zouave. We have the war- 
 horse in his agony of death; the shell bursting within a 
 German fort, and all so drawn and done as to make you 
 feel that you are in the presence of a genius such as you 
 see only in these ripe schools. Of the thirty artists at 
 work when we came in we secured the names following, 
 pleased as they were of the justice of my statement and of 
 
 
DIORAMA OF THE SIEGE OF PARIS. 
 
 197 
 
 the rare enjoyment in store for the American people. Colo- 
 nel Ltiinnard is at once soldier, sculptor, painter, and 
 anatomist. He applies mathematical rules to his distances, 
 and judges of perspective as lie does of figures and colors. 
 His associates have all been selected for excellence in their 
 special schools. There is Lehnert, the celebrated figure- 
 painter, some of whose perfected soldiers, whether they 
 fired standing or kneeling, or lying on the ground, were 
 marvels of life and force ; Betseller, who executed the cele- 
 brated picture of the Marshal-President, MacMahon ; Plon- 
 sey, the sculptor; Greux, the painter of cannons, caissons, 
 etc.; Brancous and Leprince, famous figurantes; Grand- 
 champs, portraits; together with familiar names like Bar- 
 nard, Desbrosses, Bonton, etc. All these artists have noble 
 works admitted to the annual French Exhibition for 1875, 
 Betseller's picture of MacMahon having just been sold for 
 thirty thousand francs. Colonel Luinnard speaks of the 
 new diorama with the quiet confidence of certain success. 
 He, as well as his distinguished assistants, declare that it will 
 be the most effective work of the kind yet seen. It was 
 easy to understand that their hearts were in it, and I shall 
 be surprised if this experiment does not attract them to the 
 United States, where the diorama, apart from its novelty 
 and the courage of the men who began it, may create a 
 school of art worthy of the French masters and American 
 pupils. 
 
 The diorama is to be sent from Havre to New York in 
 September, and Colonel Luinnard will accompany his own 
 work with assistants to see that it is properly placed, ex- 
 plained, and launched before the public. I described to 
 him our city, its resources and population, and the object 
 of our Centennial ; and it gratifies me to find that the sug- 
 gestion I threw out in July of 1867, when I saw the dio- 
 rama of the Battle of Solferino, that it should be imitated 
 in another of equal magnificence, has now been utilized by 
 
 17* 
 
1 9 8 AMERICAN PR OD UCTS AND SE CURITIES. 
 
 Mr. Dobbins, who was my fellow-passenger on the Illinois 
 to England just one year ago. He and his comrades will 
 be repaid for their gallant venture. Millions of people 
 vsited the " Battle of Solferino" during the Paris Exposition 
 of 1867, and five thousand a day crowd to see its successor, 
 the "Siege of Paris," now — a sure sign of the mass that 
 will come from town and country to study the new splendor 
 in course of completion. But their profits in money will 
 be nothing to the good they will accomplish in setting be- 
 fore our youth a new world of art. That will be a better 
 sequel to their manly public spirit. 
 
 A word on the commercial aspects of the hour may be 
 permitted here. This is the beginning of the European 
 fall, or autumn as it is invariably called in Europe. I have 
 made inquiry about the failure of the crops on the Euro- 
 pean Continent. It seems to be general ; and one American 
 gentleman, partner in a house for the sale of agricultural 
 implements, is so impressed with the fact that he has con- 
 cluded to return to America, convinced that the trade will 
 not pay him to remain. The following note, just received 
 from him, is worth quoting : 
 
 " Enclosed I have the advantage to hand you a report of the wheat crop 
 of France up to the 19th instant, by sections — north, south, east, and west. 
 Since then the time has not been favorable at all for the ripening of grain. 
 The price of biead has changed as follows : In Paris, from September, 
 1874, to June 1, 1875, 6 S C - P er two kils. ; June 1 to July 18, 70c. ; since 
 July 18, 75c. In some sections I learn this morning that they are asking 
 another advance of .05, or 80c." 
 
 After all, if from our full granaries Ave can supply the 
 demands of stricken Europe, the good end will equalize 
 the bad loss. When European gold comes to the United 
 States to pay for our breadstuffs, the very first result will 
 be the appreciation of the very securities which our British 
 cousins have bought so freely and think they have lost 
 entirely. Put our American industries to work by moving 
 
BELGIUM AND GERMANY. 
 
 199 
 
 our crops at good prices to foreign markets, and there will 
 not be a State, or county, or railroad security that has 
 passed its interest or suspended its dividend, with a few 
 exceptions, that will not rise and repay the original in- 
 vestors. The fact will then be again vindicated that the 
 United States is now the best country in the world for the 
 profitable investment of foreign capital. It is also the 
 safest, clear as it is of war and the fear of war, of the 
 dangerous accumulation of land and money in a few hands, 
 of the evils of unpaid labor, of the perils of a State relig- 
 ion, and of that growing and grievous problem, an over- 
 crowded population fighting for a livelihood, without a 
 hope for individual ambition. 
 Berlin, July, 1875. 
 
 LI. 
 
 Belgium and Germany. — The Centennial in Berlin. 
 
 Berlin, now the capital of the great German Empire, is 
 about as distant from Paris as Philadelphia is from Chicago, 
 — say eight hundred miles, — and you reach it from the 
 French capital almost as rapidly and comfortably as you 
 travel between the two chief cities of Pennsylvania and 
 Illinois. The ride from Cologne, four hundred and three 
 English miles, was by express. I left that Catholic centre at 
 9.30 a.m., and got here before eight in the evening. There 
 was dust enough, in all conscience, but the carriages, or 
 cars, were comfortable, the fare reasonable, the attendants 
 silent and courteous, and the weather superb. Twenty-five 
 dollars is the price for these accommodations between Paris 
 
200 BELGIUM AND GERMANY. 
 
 and Berlin; and if you take "a sleeper," which I did 
 not, you pay about double the rate charged for that luxury 
 in the United States. The German railways are better than 
 the French, but even they lack the superior personal ac- 
 commodations found on all American trains. There are 
 no water-closets or lavatories, no checking of baggage, and 
 the absence of these conveniences leads to many painful 
 embarrassments to travellers, and especially to strangers. 
 The fact is, the American railroads at home have so spoiled 
 our people that even the critical American, who is always 
 ready to fall in love with European habits at first sight, is 
 glad to express his grateful recollection of and preference 
 for his national railway luxuries. 
 
 I would that I had time to describe the other impressions 
 of this rapid jaunt through the three countries — France, 
 Belgium, and Germany — so close to one another, and yet 
 so different. You are hardly over the frontier before you 
 realize the contrast in language, dress, and architecture. 
 The French houses and roads shine in their ghastly white, 
 and the French people prove their industry and thrift ; but 
 how much superior are their Flemish neighbors, especially 
 those of the country watered by the river Meuse ! An 
 aggregate population of seven millions swarms over this 
 kingdom among endless fields of grain, clover, potatoes, 
 hops, vines, interspersed with coal, iron, limestone, marble, 
 rivers abounding in delicious fish and forests with game. 
 The banks of the Meuse between Namur and Liege may 
 be said to form and frame a gorgeous picture of varied 
 scenery. Indeed, the whole ride in Belgium was through 
 an almost continual town. You are never out of sight of 
 human habitations, workshops, foundries, factories, villas, 
 thriving fields, and a happy people. The architecture has 
 lost the French whiteness, and there are a vigor and a 
 variety in the work alike of man and nature that tell their 
 own story. This one valley is a vast granary and factory 
 
 
BELGIUM AND GERMANY. 2 oi 
 
 combined, and you can easily realize why the great Powers 
 long for the possession of this beautiful country, and why, 
 left alone in its isolation, it grows so strong' and so lovely. 
 Lying between France and Germany (both preparing for 
 a new conflict, however it may be denied), Belgium, so 
 often "the cock-pit of Europe," may again become the 
 theatre of a quarrel not of her own making, and to gratify 
 a stranger's ambition may be torn into fragments simply 
 because of her geographical position. When will the trade 
 of the man-killer be ended? 
 
 From Belgium you may pass into Germany, with instant 
 notice of the fact. Here are the black eagle, the military 
 guard, the Teutonic language, the signs of Germany, and 
 all the marks and memorials of authority and vigilance. 
 As we flew along between Cologne and Berlin I saw much 
 to impress this fact on my mind. A long, level country 
 without tunnels and. few hills, yet what a flash of force in 
 man and fruitfulness in nature ! The elements of aggres- 
 sion lie all around you. The small fields, full-cropped 
 even after the late rains ; the gardens and orchards of 
 vegetables and fruits, every field and garden with its men 
 and women workers ; the lordly stations, the vast iron, 
 coal, and granite beds; the red-bricked houses, gleaming 
 crimson against the green landscape, were not more per- 
 suasive of German power than the colossal iron-works of 
 Krupp, covering four hundred and fifty acres, with its 
 eight thousand employes and one hundred and ninety-five 
 steam-engines. Along this flat prairie, that nearest Berlin 
 being alone apparently sterile, you find chapters full of 
 warning, and which may be read with curious and profit- 
 able emotions by the great Powers. A few days ago I saw 
 new forts rising round Paris, and I did not need ask why; 
 if I had waited for the solution, I should have found it in 
 the no less manifest preparations of the Germans. What 
 adds to the strength of this chapter is the fact that both 
 i* 
 
202 THE CENTENNIAL IN BERLIN. 
 
 sides are eager and intent for the crash : — Germany in the 
 belief that she cannot be entirely safe until her neighbor 
 meets a third Sedan or Waterloo, and France that her pres- 
 tige demands a giant effort for the restoration of Alsace 
 and Lorraine, and for the vindication of the fame she won 
 under the first and lost under the third Napoleon. How- 
 ever faulty the logic of both, it becomes the philosopher to 
 accept the fact that each side believes its own argument. 
 No third party can arbitrate between such foes. France is 
 " spoiling for a fight," and Germany is quietly putting on 
 her gauntlets. Both profit by the events of 1870 and '71, 
 but it remains to be seen which has gained the most expe- 
 rience. Nations are like individuals — they rarely learn the 
 value of a good example till it is too late. France may 
 precipitate a fight with Germany a second or third time, 
 and if so, she may be crushed; but even as a victor, will 
 Germany be the lasting gainer? It is a dark outlook, and 
 we may thank our stars that the bloody wave of this im- 
 pending conflict cannot redden our shores. 
 
 But I have no time for the politics of war, nor even for 
 the healthier topic of the peaceful productions of these 
 great peoples. Therefore, let me tell you of the German 
 position in regard to our International Exposition at Phila- 
 delphia in 1876. There has been some doubt and delay in 
 regard to Germany. Many causes operated, not only the 
 mistakes at Vienna, the hard times, the cost of the late 
 war, and the belief that the American Government was 
 hostile to the Philadelphia Exposition — there were others, 
 but these were chief. My experience convinces me that 
 the German Government has never allowed anyone of these 
 causes to dampen its own determination to be well repre- 
 sented at the Centennial. Hesitation was natural under 
 the circumstances, but now the aspect is one of hope and 
 energy. The Parliament voted five hundred thousand 
 "marks," — a mark is equal to an English shilling, — and 
 
 
THE CENTENNIAL IN BERLIN. 
 
 203 
 
 the Commission, of which Mr. Jacobi is the chief, is in 
 active operation. I have had two long interviews with him 
 and his executive assistant, a gentleman of much intelli- 
 gence, and find that the organization is almost complete. 
 In company with the American consul-general, Mr. Her- 
 mann Kreisemann, I have conferred with the German Com- 
 mission, and while none of the obstacles I have enumerated 
 were denied, they have all been modified or removed. Mr. 
 Kreisemann himself, like Mr. Bancroft Davis, the Amer- 
 ican minister at Berlin (now on a summer leave on the 
 Rhine), has been most useful within the lines of his office 
 and the instructions of Mr. Fish, and I have been specially 
 aided by him. His thorough knowledge of the German 
 language and people, and his long experience in America, 
 have made him a most valuable adviser. The necessity of 
 some friendly voice at these foreign courts was never more 
 a [(parent than now. We cannot convince them that we 
 are in earnest if we remain absent or indifferent, and our 
 warm words add much to their efforts. 
 
 Germany will be represented at Philadelphia next vear in 
 her art and manufactures as follows : Mr. Krupp, the great 
 nanufacturer, has a.^ked for a large space, and one of 
 his specialties will be a mammoth gun capable of throwing 
 a thousand-pound ball. The laces, silks, and textiles will 
 need a space of at least ten thousand feet ; the books, en- 
 gravings, especially chromos and illustrated works, and 
 typography of Berlin and ■Leipsic, at least four thousand 
 feet ; Stuttgart and Berlin, Dresden and Munich, will send 
 paintings ; there are already forty exhibitors of wines from 
 the Rhine and forty from the Palatinate. Wurtemberg, 
 Alsace and Lorraine, the Grand Duchy of Baden, and 
 other provinces, will be well represented. One of the ad- 
 vantages in the German machinery for the Centennial is 
 the fact that its home agents are detailed from other bu- 
 reaus, and so cost nothing extra. Most of its exhibitors 
 
204 
 
 THE CENTENNIAL IN BERLIN. 
 
 are men quite competent to expend money for the purpose 
 of showing their own goods. It gave me pleasure to say 
 to Mr. Jacobi that such was the case with the gentlemen 
 appointed to manage the Government part of the Philadel- 
 phia Exhibition, and that nearly all the active men in the 
 Home Commission not only gave their time and labor gra- 
 tuitously, but also their money. I am well satisfied with 
 my visit to Berlin. The authorities were most interested to 
 hear my plain statement of the progress of things at home 
 and abroad, and I return to London armed with a budget 
 of useful facts. The editorial article in the London Times 
 of Saturday, July 24, embracing the elaborate history of 
 the Philadelphia Exposition and the progress of the work 
 up to date, from the pen of the Philadelphia correspondent 
 of that paper, came in good time to Berlin, and shall be 
 duly translated for the German public. 
 
 Our International Exhibition grows apace upon for- 
 eigners and ourselves. They take in its vast dimensions 
 with a surprise not less novel than the sensation of our 
 own increasing obligations to it. A gentleman writes me 
 from London : " The article in the Times is a marvellous lift 
 to the Centennial cause. I pray you will all be equal to the 
 work laid upon you." I am sure of it. The opportunity 
 is one that comes only once in a hundred years, and this is 
 the first of the procession of centuries. All interests look 
 to it, and there is no longer indifference or doubt. It has 
 ceased to be a local affair. It is no longer even national. 
 Cosmopolitan in all its details, with every civilized people 
 to help it forward, it would be very sad if the good men 
 who began the work when it had no friends should fail now 
 when everybody is in its favor. 
 
 Berlin, July, 1875. 
 
FRANKFOK T- ON- THE- MA IN. 205 
 
 LI I. 
 
 Frankfort-on-the-Main. 
 
 From Berlin to Frankfort-on-the-Main in twelve hours, 
 in the first sleeping-carriage I have seen in Europe — pro- 
 prietor, Colonel Mann, an American, owner of the Mobile 
 Register, of which John Forsyth is still the editor. Mann 
 is a dashing fellow, full of grit, and considerably cosmop- 
 olized by his foreign success. His carriages are like ours, 
 with more conveniences, such as separate apartments, 
 and electric bells for each, which are instantly and politely 
 answered by the German " kellner" (servant). Commend 
 me to the Swiss and German attendants, and to the Swiss 
 and German hotels — the former attentive and kind, and 
 the latter almost invariably clean, cheap, and quiet. 
 
 The Frankfort people are awake to the Centennial, espe- 
 cially when I reported the vigorous co-operation of the 
 Government at Berlin. Here are collected for sale the 
 exquisite Bohemian and Bavarian glass so much in vogue, 
 and the delicate and costly varieties of table service so 
 much affected by our rich families. I have always held 
 one language to "intending" foreign exhibitors, and I 
 think I have met a thousand: " The American Interna- 
 tional of 1876 is your opportunity as well as ours. We 
 invite you cordially, but do not come reluctantly. Your 
 American customers are among the best. In Rome and in 
 Florence Americans are spending vast sums for pictures and 
 statuary, among their own and Italian artists. In Venice 
 it is the same. And I would not speak of the money laid 
 out for all manner of objects by my countrymen in Paris, 
 Dresden, Munich, and London. All this expenditure does 
 
 18 
 
206 FRANKFOR T- ON THE- MA IN. 
 
 not include what is known as the bulkier articles of com- 
 merce. Much as you have seen of American liberality in 
 Europe, recollect there are thousands of rich men in the 
 United States who have never seen Europe, and who will 
 see it for the first time in its various exhibits in the Phila- 
 delphia Exhibition. They will assuredly buy if you will 
 send over your best ; but you must take some risks. I 
 know how you feel about free trade, and I have experienced 
 the necessities that have compelled us to protection. Come 
 over to us, and test your system by comparison with ours. 
 We are not afraid. We offer you a new market, and we 
 challenge you to a free competition. Our Government 
 has offered you very liberal terms, and our people will give 
 you a hearty greeting ; but, I repeat, do not come grudg- 
 ingly. It costs as little to take goods from London and 
 Paris to Philadelphia as it did to Vienna in 1873; ar, d 
 then you have a new and vast country to see, full of curious 
 and profitable studies. You now send a letter from any 
 part of Europe, except France, to any part of America for 
 one-fourth as much as it cost twenty years ago to send a 
 letter from Edinburgh to London, and competition has 
 reduced the rate of travel to a mere trifle. The telegraph 
 enables you to talk to your American friends several times 
 a day, and you are neighbors of the most distant nations 
 by railroads and steamships." 
 
 It is very interesting to watch this process of assimila- 
 tion. You reach Frankfort-on-the-Main (having left Ber- 
 lin the night before at eight) at eight in the morning, and 
 you stop at the West End Hall, the hotel where all the 
 railroads are combined. Here passengers come from and 
 go to Paris, Vienna, St. Petersburg, and to all the inter- 
 mediate places along the Rhine. The trains are constantly 
 arriving and departing, and from the porch of the West 
 End Hall, which stands between three stations, and re- 
 ceives many travellers for rest and refreshment, I have 
 
FRANAFOK T- ON- TIIE-M. 1 f.Y. 
 
 207 
 
 studied the diversified throng passing to and fro. It is a 
 sort of human kaleidoscope. Aided by a German friend, 
 I disentangled the different characters in the unceasing pro- 
 cession. First the Englishman and his family, with a red 
 book, — Murray or Budeker, — a bundle of canes and um- 
 brellas, and a roll of wraps ; they stop for cold roast beef 
 and pale ale. A German, with a long pipe, and his wife 
 with a poodle-dog; they stop for Sweitzer cheese and a 
 huge pitcher of beer. A company of marksmen, each 
 with his wife, at least fifty in all, on the way to the Schuetz- 
 enfest at Darmstadt to-morrow (Sunday). A platoon of 
 German soldiers, fully equipped, in marching order, with 
 carbine, sword, tin cup, a roll of water-proof, and strong 
 shoes; half a dozen working people from the fields, with 
 their wooden pattens over their shoulders — men and women, 
 sad and worn ; a party of Americans on the way to Hom- 
 burg, keen young men, bright, small-footed girls, a mother 
 in black silk, with anxious eyes, and a well-satisfied father; 
 now a bevy of young Germans from the University, their 
 faces literally embroidered with gashes received in sword 
 fights, — a hideous custom, not yet extinct, worthy only of 
 savages. Then we have the inevitable Hebrew, the im- 
 passive Turk, the jaunty Frenchman, well-dressed women 
 with advertising eyes, artists with their "traps," on their 
 way to Wiesbaden and Cologne, invalids en route for the 
 baths, officers in full uniform, quiet scholars in search of 
 repose, and London clerks out for their autumn vacation. 
 I have watched this tide of humanity from my quiet perch 
 for hours, and no point of view is more instructive than the 
 little notice each takes of the other, and the pervading tone 
 of separate individuality. It is the world in miniature. 
 Frankfort-on-the-Main, July, 1875. 
 
2o8 SPA. 
 
 L 1 1 1. 
 
 Spa. — Gaming-Houses Suppressed. — Friends Abroad. 
 
 I have reached Spa, in Belgium, formerly one of the 
 most celebrated fashionable watering-places in Europe, but 
 latterly mostly frequented by those who woo Fortune at that 
 "Board of Green Cloth," the gaming-table. On the ist 
 of January, 1873, the whole of the real estate of the gam- 
 blers of Germany was declared public property; the Gov- 
 ernment allowing them to play only until December3i, 1872, 
 on the payment of a million of thalers (each two-thirds 
 of our dollar) for the improvement of the towns in which 
 they " plied their vocation." In addition to this, the gam- 
 blers paid over one hundred thousand thalers for the same 
 purpose. These towns know them no more, and yet crowds 
 gather every season at such resorts as Baden-Baden, Wies- 
 baden, and Ems. Hundreds who avoided them when pub- 
 lic gambling was the fashion visit them now, and, as I have 
 already described, "the black sheep" find occupation at 
 Monaco, near Nice, and a little village in Switzerland. 
 Spa, where I am now writing, is in Belgium, about midway 
 between Cologne and Brussels. It is among the oldest and 
 brightest of its sanitary schools. For two centuries Spa 
 was the favorite retreat of the titled and the rich ; it now is 
 full of them again. The population is eight thousand, and 
 the visitors amount annually to about sixteen thousand. 
 Up to within a short time its gambling-rooms cleared easily 
 two hundred thousand dollars a year after paying for the 
 public balls, music, and theatres, and giving large sums for 
 the improvement of the roads and the town. In early days 
 these gaming-houses were the property of the Prince-Bishop 
 
SPA. 209 
 
 of Liege, who divided the profits of the gaming tables, and 
 no new table could be erected without his authority. 
 
 Like Homburg and Wiesbaden, this gay place is very 
 beautiful. It lies in a sort of semi-basin in the midst of 
 the Ardennes, and its healthy and airy walks, its noble 
 avenues and alleys of lime-trees, its bath-houses, numerous 
 springs, and fine houses, attract crowds. There are nine 
 chalybeate springs, all cold and sparkling, in a circuit of 
 six miles, and you reach them by agreeable roads and paths 
 bordered by fragrant trees. The excursions in the vicinity 
 are full of historic interest. Spa is also famous for a pecu- 
 liar manufacture of toys, made of wood stained by the min- 
 eral waters, and many artists are employed in decorating 
 them with paintings and flowers. The interest of the Bel- 
 gians in our Exposition shows itself plainly in this romantic 
 spot. Not only was it the theme of conversation, but pho- 
 tographs of the Exposition Buildings were suspended in 
 the public places. The progressive and liberal monarch 
 of this workshop and granary of a Kingdom, Leopold II., 
 is personally active in urging contributions to Philadelphia 
 in 1876. 
 
 An amusing incident marked my visit to Spa. Although 
 only four hours from Cologne, where I put to good use my 
 small stock of German, I found that I could not make my- 
 self sufficiently intelligible to ask for a cold lunch at the 
 Spa station, where all was French ; not a word of German 
 spoken or understood ! There were three boys and a girl, 
 and they listened to me in open-eyed wonder. But a happy 
 relief was at hand in two young Philadelphia gentlemen, 
 temporarily resident here, aged respectively ten and twelve, 
 who had just put on trousers for the first time, and whose 
 father is my valued friend. They came in opportunely, 
 supplied me with all the language I wanted, and brightened 
 my short stay. How strange, that a few hours should so 
 completely change the habits and language of a people ! 
 
 18* 
 
210 GERMAN CUSTOMS. 
 
 You realize this, singularly, in the difference between the 
 English at Dover and Folkestone and the French at Calais 
 and Boulogne, after you cross the Channel. In two hours 
 you pass from one world to another. In our own country 
 we travel three and four thousand miles through the same 
 people and language, and yet these changeful idioms pro- 
 mote and create a genuine cosmopolitanism. 
 
 Some of the habits of the Germans are primitive enough. 
 Even in the best hotels dinner is often served at one o'clock 
 P.M., and the fashionable stranger falls into it by making 
 that meal his breakfast ! The Germans go to the theatre 
 and opera at six o'clock in the evening, and most of them 
 are in bed at ten. In England the men go into the streets 
 or gardens to smoke ; in Germany they smoke over the 
 whole house, and light their cigars and pipes at your side 
 in the dining-room ; and, truth to add, they are just as 
 clean and polite as the English for all that. I notice, too, 
 that the ladies never object to these masculine indulgences. 
 In all the German towns the dogs are made to work, and not 
 left, as in England, to play. Hitched to little carts, either 
 in the shafts or under the wagon, they supplement the man 
 or woman who owns the barrow, and pull by ones or twos 
 with a surprising fidelity ; and, better than all, they seem 
 to be proud of their service. You get so used to all these 
 things, and now a hay or grain field without women at 
 work seems almost an offence. The rural gentle sex like 
 it, I should think from the eager energy of their labors. 
 Nothing in these Germans and French is so wholesome as 
 their almost universal temperance. Living among wines, 
 and making the wines of and for the world, they are nearly 
 as sober as the Turks. Take the lowest of the men and the 
 most degraded of the women, and the especial vice they 
 avoid is that of drunkenness. It ought to be easy to 
 govern multitudes who possess this one great virtue of 
 governing themselves. 
 
FRIENDS ABROAD. 211 
 
 It is a great satisfaction to me to meet ever) where my 
 country-people, and to find them so wide-awake about our 
 International Exhibition. There has been such a constant 
 crusade upon our credit and character in late years, in 
 many cases without cause — and I insist, in no one case 
 which I could not match in other countries, placed under 
 the same fierce light of outside criticism and inside expos- 
 ure — that a noble mission like our Centennial was needed 
 to lift us from our demoralization at home and our despon- 
 dency abroad. You see and feel this now as you travel in 
 Europe. It is like a new and a' better atmosphere. I am 
 met every day by congratulations upon the growing prom- 
 ise of the Centennial, and uplifted by the pride of our 
 countrymen in Europe over the magnificent preparations 
 of the great Powers who are to sit as guests at our interna- 
 tional love-feast. Let me name among those who have 
 been most useful in their voluntary and unpaid exertions 
 Hon. E. P. Carpenter, of Scarborough, Massachusetts, 
 who, after a long sojourn in London, returned in a late 
 steamer, and is now at his home. Equally earnest and 
 generous are ex-Governor Claflin, of the same State, now 
 in Dresden, and ex-Governor Clifford, also of Massachu- 
 setts, at present in Switzerland. I spent an evening lately 
 with my old friend, Hon. Robert M. McLane, of Mary- 
 land, and found him as fresh as when I first saw him in 
 Washington, thirty years ago. A Southern man heart and 
 soul, a ripe statesman, having filled high stations at home 
 and abroad with vast ability, it was cheering to mark his 
 enthusiasm over the Centennial as the era of international 
 and internal reconciliation. Mr. Henry D. Moore, of 
 Philadelphia, is working for the good cause in Russia, and 
 we owe much to General Daniel E. Sickles, in Paris, where 
 he improves his rare opportunity to aid us among his large 
 circle of friends. I can with equal justice speak of the 
 valuable and substantial sympathy of Dr. Evans, of the 
 
212 FJiIEA T DS ABROAD. 
 
 American Register in Paris, and the steady aid given by- 
 its able editor, Dr. Crane. Nor forget, in this connec- 
 tion, Mr. J. C. Mackenzie, in Galignani, who almost daily 
 discusses the International, and Dr. Ryan, the new Paris 
 editor of the New York Herald. In Rome we have W. 
 W. Story and Randolph Rogers and their brother-artists, 
 with William Hooker, the banker; in Florence, M. D. 
 Eyre, the American banker, and a long array of American 
 painters and' sculptors ; and, indeed, I have yet to hear of 
 an American, from whatever State, who is not doing his 
 best for the Centennial abroad. The Philadelphians are, 
 of course, foremost in their appeals. 
 
 Nobody has done more generous and practical good than 
 Thomas H. Dudley, of New Jersey, elected a Centennial 
 Commissioner about a year ago. I saw him in London in 
 July, and he is now in Paris. I wish we had a dozen such 
 men in every European capital. It is the perfect ignoring 
 of self, the utter abnegation of party, the generosity that 
 gives- time and money with equal munificence, the mag- 
 nanimity that goes more than half way to forgive an enemy, 
 and the broad catholic spirit that soars above creeds and 
 critics — it is all these that constitute the platform and the 
 purpose of those who are pushing the work of the Centen- 
 nial at home and abroad. Mr. Dudley will show on his 
 return how well he has used his time since he left the 
 United States last June. He comes armed with many 
 valuable suggestions, the result of his own experience as 
 American consul for ten years at Liverpool, of his fresh 
 knowledge of the new work at home, of his recent inter- 
 views with many of the ablest men in Europe, and of his 
 own native enthusiasm. I will not anticipate his recom- 
 mendations, save in so far as I may generally refer them to 
 the favorable consideration of Congress and the country. 
 They are all practicable and necessary. 
 
 Sl'A, August, 1875. 
 
WIESBADEN. 
 
 213 
 
 LI V. 
 
 Wiesbaden. — German Universities. — Champagne Manufacture. 
 
 In Wiesbaden, the capital of Nassau, a lovely resort, and 
 a short ride from the classic Rhine, I find much worthy of 
 comment apart from its natural beauty, pure atmosphere, 
 and healing waters. In this month of August the absence 
 of heat, of flies, and of mosquitoes, the exquisite tempera- 
 ture, the glorious old trees in the old public grounds, the 
 fountains and public buildings, invite to rest and reflection, 
 and I do not wonder that thousands flock to the retreats 
 along this storied river in search of health and repose. 
 Yet there is material for a more active life, especially to 
 those who, like myself, travel for an object, and keep their 
 eyes open and their hearts steadily fixed upon their home 
 beyond the seas. Indeed, such an object is the real flavor 
 of experience; without it, without occupation, or the sense 
 of service in a good cause, absence would be a pain and 
 travel a labor, but now every mile opens a new thought, 
 and every hour offers a useful opportunity. 
 
 Sitting alone and unknown last evening in the beautiful 
 grounds of the Kursaal, the former gambling-house of 
 Wiesbaden, now a library and reading-room under the 
 reforming rule of the German Emperor, who celebrated 
 the union of his Empire by closing all these haunts of dis- 
 sipation, I spoke in very bad German to a very young man 
 on one of the chairs at my side, and received a polite 
 reply. He was a Norwegian, attending a chemical labora- 
 tory at Wiesbaden preparatory to his admission into one 
 of the great German universities. After asking him some 
 questions he found that I was an American, and at once 
 
214 GERMAN UNIVERSITIES. 
 
 informed me that there were several of my young country 
 people among his associates. "One of them is here," he 
 added, calling out from a group near by a bright-faced 
 young fellow, who came eagerly forward to meet me. His 
 name is Henry C. Steifel, he lives in Pittsburgh, Pennsyl- 
 vania, and he was sent to Germany by his father to finish 
 his chemical studies. Thus began a very pleasant acquaint- 
 ance. Next morning, in company with young Steifel, I 
 visited the laboratory and obtained some insight into one 
 of the educational institutions of this great country, and 
 especially into the extraordinary interest taken in chem- 
 istry. 
 
 Germany has twenty -one universities, the principal 
 being Leipsic, Berlin, and Heidelberg. Leipsic has al- 
 ways between two thou; and and two thousand five hundred 
 students, about two hundred or three hundred studying 
 chemistry. Berlin has between one thousand five hundred 
 and two thousand students} about two hundred studying 
 chemistry. Heidelberg has about one thousand students, 
 of whom about one hundred study chemistry. There are 
 also nine large polytechnic schools, the two largest being 
 at Munich and Stuttgart; many private laboratories, the 
 largest in Germany being at Wiesbaden, with about ninety 
 students, under Professor Frisenius. There are many cele- 
 brated chemists at German universities : Hoffman at Ber- 
 lin, Kolbe at Leipsic, Bunsen at Heidelberg, Kekule at 
 Bonn, Wohler at Gottingen, etc. Many of these univer- 
 sities are very ancient, Heidelberg being about three hun- 
 dred years old. Many Americans study in the German 
 universities, Heidelberg alone having about fifteen each 
 on. 
 
 Here, as in other places, I found the International Ex- 
 position the prevailing topic; and more than one of the 
 young men spoke of coming over to see it. Indeed, the 
 number of visitors to America in 1876, estimated by the 
 
CHAMPAGNE MANUFACTURE. 215 
 
 information I receive, will be very great. Our country is 
 exciting various sensations abroad. Many are curious, 
 many are surprised at our growth, many doubt our ability 
 to endure, a very few fear or dislike ns, but the great body 
 of the people everywhere look to the United States as 
 their ever-ready and safe reserve. Among these must be 
 classed the young scholars who, finding no reward for their 
 talents in the Old World, will crowd eagerly to the New. 
 
 Science figures largely in all the productive arts, and 
 chemistry in the lead. You find the evidences in all na- 
 tions, and these German statistics show how it enters into 
 the practical operations of the world. The cultivation of 
 the soil, not alone for what that soil will grow, but for that 
 which remains undeveloped, is a chief mission of the chem- 
 ist ; and in our own country, where nature is so generous, 
 the field is almost boundless. Here the earth is made to 
 give forth streams of wealth in wondrous and varied pro- 
 fusion. The valleys and hills of the Rhine are converted 
 into gardens. Every few miles a different grape is seen, 
 although the soil seems to be the same, while from the 
 rocks rise springs filled with medicinal waters. After 
 I had visited the laboratory in Wiesbaden, I rode out to 
 see a champagne factory, a few miles distant on the Rhine. 
 One of the proprietors, Mr. Frederick Poths, of the Hotel 
 Rhiers, accompanied us and explained the process of pre- 
 paration from the grape. A million of bottles of sparkling 
 champagne, made at this establishment, were all ready for 
 market. The demand is constant and increasing. The 
 process is the same as it is in France. When the wine is 
 young and has not yet finished fermentation it is mixed 
 with older wine which has finished its fermentation, im- 
 mediately bottled off, put into a room heated to thirty 
 degrees, where it remains and ferments for one month. 
 Sometimes the wine is too strong for the bottles, but it is 
 astonishing how few are lost. All the bottles are then 
 
216 CHAMPAGNE MANUFACTURE. 
 
 placed, end up. in vaults, where they remain for one year, 
 during which interval the sediment of the wine settles on 
 the corks (the wine being turned up), and when the wine 
 is recorked the sediment escapes and the bottle is filled 
 with old Rhine wine and sugar. The champagne is then 
 ready for the market. You will realize what an immense 
 trade there is in champagne when I tell you not only that 
 I saw one million of bottles in the vaults of Mr. Poths, 
 but that he informed me that Moet & Chandon manu- 
 facture annually at their French establishment about a 
 million and a half dozen bottles. I told you from Berlin 
 that the wine-makers of the Rhine had resolved to send 
 forty varieties to our Exhibition next year. 
 
 Plans of the International buildings have been circulated 
 all through this valley. Our people must learn much from 
 the presence of the growers of the grape and the makers 
 of the wine, which contributes so much to the health, 
 wealth, and power of France and Germany. While they 
 cannot forget that the light wines of these countries have 
 only reached present perfection by the long trials of cen- 
 turies, improved by the discoveries of modern science, in- 
 cluding the chemical analysis and cultivation of the various 
 soils, they should also remember that the United States 
 offers a thousand inducements for the growth of the grape, 
 which gives the juice for almost the same varieties. Our 
 experiments have been most successful. It is true the for- 
 eign products still rule our market. The consumption of 
 French champagnes and red wines, of German Johannis- 
 berg, Rudisheim, Cabinet, Moselle, and other sparkling 
 hocks, still draws from lis millions of our gold every year, 
 but time will put us far on the way of a reasonable inde- 
 pendence, and 1876 will be the opportunity for contrast 
 and observation. Once we have reached a fair, practical 
 sense of this new source of wealth, whisky and brandy, 
 with all "hot and rebellious liquors," will disappear. 
 
BRUSSELS. 
 
 217 
 
 A city railroad in Wiesbaden, projected by an American, 
 my friend W. T. Valentine, now and for many years a 
 resident of London, is rapidly approaching completion, and 
 will be opened in a few days. Aided by some English capi- 
 talists, he will soon have it in profitable operation. I found 
 this American institution in London, Antwerp, Brussels, 
 and Paris, rapidly growing into favor. What would Phila- 
 delphia be during the Centennial year without her eight 
 hundred miles of city iron roads? This single fact goes 
 far to add to the magnitude of the Exhibition in foreign 
 eyes, even as the answer to my question disposes of the 
 complaints so common a few years ago, when our Legisla- 
 ture granted the charters to our city railroad companies. 
 A question as easily and as forcibly answered, in view of the 
 same period, is: What would Philadelphia be without the 
 American line of steamships between her own wharves and 
 the great British port of Liverpool? An International 
 Exhibition in America without direct steam communication 
 with Europe would dwarf into a mere provincial fair. 
 Wiesbaden, August, 1875. 
 
 LV. 
 
 Brussels. — Enthusiasm for the Centennial.— What Belgium has done. 
 
 Brussels, on my arrival from Spa, was under a copious 
 rain. The streets were flooded and desolate, yet the next 
 morning a bright sun showed this beautiful capital of Bel- 
 gium washed bright and clean, her great parks glittering in 
 their summer robes. Another city of the centuries, with 
 an aggregate population of about one hundred and seventy- 
 five thousand, the commercial metropolis of a kingdom of 
 six millions of people, the seat of the ancient nobility and 
 
 K 19 
 
2i8 BELGIUM AND ITS ADVANTAGES. 
 
 kings, the centre of alternate war and revolution, the best 
 part of Brussels looked as new and as freshly painted this 
 lovely August morning as if it had just come into being 
 full fledged and perfect. Here again we meet the light 
 and graceful architecture of the French, with French dress 
 and living, French music, French in the theatres, the 
 Court, and the streets. But with all the perils of its inter- 
 mediate position — lying, as it were, in the road between 
 the Gallic and the German giants — Belgium may well boast 
 (monarchy though it is) of being a purer republic than 
 France, and a more tranquil and popular government than 
 Germany. Protected, let us hope, by the last treaty of the 
 Five Powers against the danger of encroachment from either 
 of the still hostile Empires, Belgium will flourish as a sig- 
 nificant example of the value of successful industry, thor- 
 ough education, and enlightened legislation. Leopold II. 
 is a ruler of excellent qualities, and seems to deserve the 
 title of the People's King. Their institutions are, in some 
 respects, highly democratic, especially the feature of pri- 
 mary or communal control, and their devotion to manufac- 
 ture, commerce, and art is a better sign of progress than 
 are huge preparations for war. No act of Parliament can 
 become a law in Belgium, even after its approval by the 
 King, until it has been sanctioned by the Ministry. There 
 is a freer press in Belgium than in Germany, and evidently 
 a more settled and satisfied populace. 
 
 My first visit, in company with Mr. A. J. Drexel, was to 
 the American consul, Dr. John Wilson, of Pittsburgh, Penn- 
 sylvania, now, in the absence of any diplomatic representa- 
 tive from the United States, the sole medium of American 
 communication with the Belgian Government. I found 
 him sympathetic and earnest in regard to the Philadelphia 
 Exhibition, and he gave us full and interesting details. 
 At a later hour he kindly accompanied me to the Bureau 
 ^of the "Exposition Internationale de Philadelphie," and 
 
WHAT BELGIUM HAS DONE. 
 
 219 
 
 presented me to Mr. J. Clerfeyt, member and secretary 
 of the Belgian Commission to Philadelphia. I found the 
 latter deeply immersed in his work, which seemed to be a 
 real labor of love to him. He had just received a London 
 letter from our constant friend P. Cunliffe Owen, Esq., ap- 
 pointed to systematize the business of his department. I 
 found — 
 
 JFirst. Duplicates in French of all the American regula- 
 tions and statistics issued by the Philadelphia Commission 
 and Government of the United States. 
 
 Second. Elaborate descriptions, in French, of the five 
 great Exhibition Buildings in the Centennial Grounds; the 
 dimensions of Fairmount Park ; the approaches by land and 
 sea. 
 
 Third. A list of the accepting Governments, a circular 
 describing Mr. Owen's visit to Philadelphia and descriptive 
 of the progress of the British preparations. 
 
 Fourth. A copious and well-displayed advertisement of 
 the Red Star line of steamers between the Belgian port 
 of Antwerp and that of Philadelphia, in connection with 
 the Pennsylvania Railroad, with minute details as to accom- 
 modation, fares, etc. 
 
 Fifth. The corrected list of the Belgian Commission to 
 Philadelphia ; it being intended that a full quorum of this 
 body shall be present during the Exhibition. Mr. Clerfe\ t 
 will be there as the executive and resident secretary. 
 
 Sixth. The letters of the Belgian Commission, signed 
 by the president, Baron G. de Woelmont, and counter- 
 signed by Mr. Clerfeyt, to the agriculturists, artists, manu- 
 facturers, and scholars of Belgium. 
 
 Seventh. Full lists of the Belgian exhibits, - which include 
 all varieties of productions, and these varieties are beyond 
 conception: Paintings, sculptures, bronzes, engravings, 
 books, glass, wood, marble, steel, iron, cotton, linen, 
 wares, laces, metallurgy, grains, chocolate, coffee, cocoa, 
 
220 WHAT BELGIUM HAS DOXE. 
 
 vegetables and animals, perfumeries, preserved fruits, hats 
 and caps, sugars and syrups, liquors, biscuits, candles, 
 acids, fertilizers, chemicals, paints, drugs, terra-cotta ware, 
 a vast collection of toys, table service of all kinds, military 
 goods, paper hangings, poplins, delaines, satins, sacred 
 vestments, precious stones, artificial hair, hair ornaments, 
 etc., etc. 
 
 The collection includes science and education; among 
 other things a Belgian school-house, the catalogues and 
 books and the whole organization as perfect as a military 
 school. 
 
 And this is "little Belgium," with a population only 
 one-half larger than Pennsylvania! 
 
 me here say, once for all, that in all my efforts to 
 promote the International Exhibition I have had the gen- 
 erous aid of the American ministers and consuls, as well 
 as the enthusiastic co-operation of the American residents 
 and travellers in Europe. The consul-general at Paris, 
 General A. T. Torbert, has been unwearied in his labors, 
 and I hope I may be pardoned for adding that his accom- 
 plished wife is as earnest as himself. I can speak with 
 equal justice of Consul-General and Mrs. Dahlgren, at 
 Rome; of Corfsul-General Kruesen and lady, at Berlin; of 
 Consul Spencer, at Genoa; of Consul Duncan, at Naples; 
 of Consul-General Webster, at Frankfort; of Consul Bridg- 
 land, at Havre; of Consul Vesey,.at Nice ; of Consul Potter, 
 at Marseilles; of Consul Thompson, at Southampton; and 
 of Consul Crane, at Manchester — indeed, I might name 
 the whole catalogue of our commercial representatives 
 when speaking of their disinterested and voluntary services 
 the Centennial. The American ministers at all the 
 European courts have, like the consuls, observed their in- 
 structions from the Department of State in Washington, 
 and have kept the different foreign powers fully advised of 
 the progress of the Philadelphia Exhibition. General 
 
FRENCH CONTRIBUTORS TO THE EXPOSITION. 221 
 
 Schenck at London and Mr. Washburne at Paris - have 
 tfiven much strength to the movement by their intelligent 
 juggestions and sincere sympathy. 
 Brussels, August, 1875. 
 
 LVI. 
 
 French Contributors to the Exposition. 
 
 Edmond About, the celebrated French litterateur, and 
 editor of the dashing Republican paper, the Paris Dix- 
 neuvieme Siecle (the Nineteenth Century), has announced 
 his intention of visiting the Centennial Exposition for the 
 purpose of writing up that international gathering, and also 
 of describing the varied resources and peculiar institutions 
 of America. He has been engaged by Hachette & Co., 
 one of the largest publishing houses in Paris, and as his 
 work is to be published in handsomely illustrated numbers, 
 a large sale may be expected. M. About is a prominent 
 Mason, and informs me that some one hundred members 
 of the Masonic order, including the best mechanics and 
 artists, will go forward to Philadelphia at an early day for 
 the purpose of practicing their various trades and pro- 
 fessions during the Exposition. They will be supported 
 on their outgoing trip by the Masons of France, and I have 
 assured them that they will be hospitably received by their 
 brethren in the United States and have written a notice of 
 this fact to the head of the Masonic order in Philadelphia. 
 
 Robert Fleutey, the distinguished French artist, a mem- 
 ber of the French Institute, now in his eightieth year (who 
 well remembers the first Marquis de Lafayette and is a 
 friend of the last), is engaged on a work for the Phila- 
 
 19* 
 
222 FRENCH CONTRIBUTORS TO THE EXPOSITION. 
 
 delphia Exposition illustrating the visit of Benjamin 
 Franklin to the French Court in the last days of his life. 
 M. Fleurey received me with distinguished courtesy at 
 the venerable institute of which he is a member, and 
 entered with characteristic enthusiasm into the suggestion 
 which I had the honor to make, that we should like tq. 
 have one picture at least from his historic brush in our 
 cosmopolitan collection. 
 
 The American people will never forget that it was in the 
 spring of 1824 that the Marquis Gilbert Motier de La- 
 fayette left Havre for America on his second short visit to 
 that 'country ; and while at Havre a few days ago in con- 
 versation with Mr. Vesey, the American consul at Nice, 
 France, I had an interesting description vividly recalled 
 by the latter of the embarkation from that port of the 
 illustrious Frenchman. Mr. Vesey was then a lad, em- 
 ployed in the American consulate at Havre, and when 
 Lafayette was bidding adieu to his numerous friends 
 crowded on the quay, young Vesey was sent to the French 
 soldier with the imperative message from the captain of 
 the vessel, then waiting for him in the stream, that if he 
 did not soon take boat they would be compelled to weigh 
 anchor without him. It would be a happy coincidence if 
 the grandson of the great Marquis, the present Oscar de 
 Lafayette, now living in Paris, surrounded with the respect 
 and love of the people, could be induced to leave this same 
 port of Havre, early next spring, in an American ship, as 
 the guest of America at our International Exhibition. No 
 visitor from abroad would be so welcome as the descendant 
 of the Marquis de Lafayette, except, perhaps, John Bright 
 or Guiseppe Garibaldi. I have repeatedly said so to M. 
 de Lafayette, but he is so modest and retiring that up to 
 this moment he has declined to accede. Full of love as 
 he is for America, he shrinks from a crowd, and does not 
 desire to be made the object of conspicuous attentions. 
 
FRENCH CONTRIBUTORS TO THE EXPOSITION. 223 
 
 A letter from Thomas Cochran, Esq., chairman of the 
 Centennial Buildings Committee, accepting the proposition 
 of Major Auguste Bartholdi, who offers his beautiful bronze 
 fountain, which 1 have already described, as a free gift to 
 the Centennial Co'mmissioners, asking only that it should 
 be placed in a proper position and supplied with gas and 
 water, has given much satisfaction to that brilliant and 
 disinterested artist and his numerous friends, and long be- 
 fore the winter sets in I hope that you will be able to enjoy 
 the sight of what I conceive to be the most symmetrical 
 and effective fountain I have ever seen. As a model for 
 all our cities, and especially for such places as Reading, 
 Lancaster, Easton, Erie, and other towns of equal and even 
 larger size in other States, it will be well worthy of study 
 and purchase, for its cost will be moderate. The same 
 artist' lias under way his colossal lighthouse, to be placed 
 on Bedloe's Island, in the approach to the harbor of 
 New York, to which I have already called attention. Ex- 
 clusive of the pedestal it is more than one hundred feet 
 high, is surmounted by a gigantic female figure holding 
 a torch in her right hand, and when completed will be 
 one of the most striking objects of the kind on any coast in 
 the world. A committee of prominent Frenchmen and 
 Americans has been raised for the purpose of securing 
 funds for this extensive work. Among the names are 
 Oscar de Lafayette, Laboulaye, Flobert, Washburne, and 
 Rochambeau. Next Monday, September 7, M. Bartholdi 
 calls his committee together at his studio, 40 Rue Vavin, 
 Paris, for the purpose of consulting upon the necessary 
 arrangements. One part of this colossal figure, the arm 
 alone, has been modelled for display at the Philadelphia 
 Exposition. The size of the complete statue may be con- 
 jectured when I tell you that this single limb looks like the 
 mast of a ship. 
 
 Paris, September, 1875. 
 
224 SURRENDER OF YORKTOWN. 
 
 LVII. 
 
 Diving. — Surrender of Yorktown. — Dion Boucicault. 
 
 There is now on exhibition at the Alexandra Palace — 
 the new competitor with the Crystal Palace — a curious col- 
 lection of the various processes of diving, which attracts 
 great crowds, and has already, at the low rate of three- 
 pence for admission, well paid the projectors, who are 
 anxious to place a copy of it "in our Exposition if they can 
 be supplied with the necessary water, — a problem easy of 
 solution when we remember that the Schuylkill is our 
 boundary, and that the Alexandra Palace and its grounds 
 are situated on a hill and the water supply consequently is 
 artificial. Engagements permitting, I hope to have an 
 opportunity of personally inspecting this interesting work, 
 at once so useful and so novel. A recent article in the 
 London Daily News explains with much minuteness the 
 great advantages resulting from the successful application 
 of the various processes of diving, especially in the recent 
 exploration in the wreck of the Schiller, by which forty 
 thousand pounds have already been recovered. 
 
 A number of Philadelphians have secured another pano- 
 rama — this time the representation of the surrender of the 
 English armies at Yorktown, Virginia, which closed the 
 Revolutionary War. The artist- is Colonel Luinnard, the 
 same who has completed the new siege of Paris for Mr. 
 Dobbins and his associates, and I cannot doubt that both 
 will be remunerative enterprises. "The Surrender at 
 Yorktown" is on a flat surface, some ninety feet in length 
 and thirty feet high, and is pronounced by those who have 
 
DION B O UC1CA ULT. 225 
 
 seen it a vivid, faithful, and picturesque representation of 
 that great historical event. 
 
 William Blackmore, Esq., an intelligent English 
 resident at Salisbury, famous for its ancient cathedral, and 
 in the neighborhood of the mysterious colossal relic, 
 " Stonehenge," is about preparing and publishing, chiefly 
 for the benefit of the Philadelphia Exposition, an illustrated 
 book descriptive of the early life of William Perm, copies of 
 which will be forwarded in due time. Mr. Blackmore is the 
 owner of some choice old engravings relating to the youth- 
 ful days of Penn, which will be of rare interest to our 
 National Museum. Identified in many ways with America 
 and deeply interested in her progress, Mr. Blackmore is 
 one of a very large class of Englishmen who will utilize 
 the Centennial year by reproducing such relics of our 
 primitive history and experience as will throw new light 
 upon the men and events of the past. 
 
 Dion Boucicault, who played in San Francisco on the 
 evening of July 31, left California on the 1st of August 
 and reached New York on the 7th. Taking the steamer 
 on the nth for Liverpool, he arrived in London ten days 
 after, and is already fully prepared to open at Drury Lane 
 with his popular play, "The Shaughraun." It marks the 
 progress of the age that he should have travelled, with in- 
 tervals for rest, a distance of nearly seven thousand miles 
 in less than three weeks without fatigue. I attentively 
 listened to his interesting description of his last meeting 
 with the lamented William S. Ralston, of San Francisco, 
 whose sad death excites so much surprise and comment. 
 Having myself known Mr. Ralston, and gratefully remem- 
 bering his princely hospitalities to Colonel Scott and his 
 party a little more than three years ago, when we visited 
 the Pacific coast, I felt naturally anxious to know whether 
 the shadow of the fate which finally befell him was manifest 
 at all during his intercourse with Boucicault ; and I was 
 
 K* 
 
226 BARTHOLDI'S COLOSSAL LIGHTHOUSE. 
 
 prepared, therefore, to hear that when the latter left him 
 he seemed much preoccupied with business, though at in- 
 tervals naturally cheerful and buoyant. Mr. Boucicault 
 paid him the warm tribute of a kindly heart, and said that 
 he could only now remember the fact that Ralston was the 
 benefactor of the Pacific coast, the friend of the poor, the 
 patron of art in all its phases, and the most unselfish and 
 liberal of men. "Even," said Mr. Boucicault, "if all 
 that I left in his care — and it was a large sum — should be 
 sunk in the general wreck, no word of reproach against 
 William S. Ralston should pass my lips." Still speaking 
 of Boucicault, let me add his very practical suggestion, that 
 after the Exhibition at least one of the great buildings 
 should be left standing, in connection with the Art Me- 
 morial Hall itself, in which the most valuable specimens 
 of manufactures should be preserved as the beginning of a 
 great Museum like that at South Kensington or the Crystal 
 Palace at Sydenham. 
 London, September, 1875. 
 
 LVIII. 
 
 Bartholdi's Colossal "Lighthouse. — M. Laboulaye. — Healy the Painter. 
 
 Invited to Paris for a few days to meet the committee 
 appointed to make preparations for Major Bartholdi's colos- 
 sal lighthouse, the model of which has just been finished, 
 and which is to be erected by the generous subscriptions of 
 the French Republicans and their associates in America on 
 Bedloe's Island, in the bay of New York, I had an oppor- 
 tunity of again meeting M. Laboulaye, the distinguished 
 political economist, whose noble leadership in the Chamber 
 of Deputies promises what I trust will be a permanent 
 
M. LABOULAYE. 
 
 227 
 
 Republic for this magnificent Empire. Among others 
 present at this interesting consultation, which took place at 
 the private residence of M. Bartholdi, were M. Edmond 
 About, Henry Martin, the historian, and Grand Master of' 
 the five hundred thousand Masons in France, and several 
 other gentlemen of distinction, including Consul-General 
 Torbert, Mr. Vesey, American consul at Nice, Mr. Walter 
 McMichael of Philadelphia, and Gratiot Washburne, Jr., 
 of the American legation in Paris, who represented his 
 father, now absent at Carlsbad. I have more than once 
 mentioned this imposing lighthouse, which is in the form 
 of a female figure in bronze, one hundred feet high, to be 
 placed on a granite pedestal sixty feet high. If you could 
 see the preparations making for it you would realize at 
 once its peculiar magnificence and the genius of the Repub- 
 lican artist who is executing it. M. Laboulaye predicts 
 that it will be one of the wonders of the Western Conti- 
 nent, and taken in connection with the superb lion of Bel- 
 fort — the frontier-town defended so bravely against the Ger- 
 mans during the late war — itself perhaps the largest figure 
 of the kind in the world — you obtain another idea of the 
 artist, whose fountains beautify the principal cities of 
 France, and whose bronzes are among the finest in Europe. 
 M. Laboulaye, I regret to say, is too much engaged in his 
 legislative duties, and is too essential to his party in France, 
 to pay us a visit. We all remember his book on America, 
 that wonderful insight into our domestic life and political 
 institutions which showed a far closer knowledge of both 
 than that of many a traveller who had given time and at- 
 tention to the subject. When we consider that M. Labou- 
 laye has never seen our country, we can better appreciate 
 the almost inspired temper of a production which, besides 
 its large sale in our own country, has been translated into 
 Russian, Greek, Assyrian, Spanish, Italian, Portuguese, 
 German, and Dutch, and is a standard work in all libraries. 
 
228 IIEALY THE PAINTER. 
 
 Short though my stay in Paris must be (for I return to 
 London immediately), I called at the studio of Mr. G. A. 
 Healy, the American artist, 64 Rue de Rochefoucauld, 
 to see his contribution to the Centennial, being the fine 
 full-length painting of the interview between Lincoln, 
 Grant, Sherman, and Admiral Porter, preparatory to the 
 march into Georgia. It is a noble work, worthy of the 
 fame of Mr. Healy as an unrivalled portrait-painter, giving 
 us perhaps a better Lincoln than any yet painted. I have 
 known Mr. Healy for twenty-five years, and can therefore 
 confirm the fame he has obtained since the time when a 
 struggling artist in the National Capitol at Washington he 
 produced the memorable likeness of that noble-hearted 
 man, President Franklin Pierce. Hung around his studio 
 were many familiar faces, showing not alone the improve- 
 ment of the artist but the advance in his worldly position. 
 Mr. Healy is going home to America to remain for the 
 Exhibition, and will doubtless be one of its most active 
 promoters. He had just received his appointment from 
 Philadelphia as one of the committee of three to select and 
 send forward such contributions as may be furnished by the 
 American artists in France ; and, although his absence from 
 this committee is unfortunate, we shall not lose the benefit 
 of his practical friendship. 
 
 The rapid growth of the sentiment in this beautiful capital 
 in favor of the Exhibition is now very obvious. In several of 
 the windows along the boulevards I find the engravings of 
 the Centennial Buildings surrounded by admiring crowds, 
 while in all circles it is the favorite subject of conversation. 
 One carriage-maker has applied for permission to send for- 
 ward thirty vehicles, the specimens of his manufacture, while 
 the glass, silk, lace, cotton, wool, steel, iron, and gold and 
 silver work, not to speak of the contributions of the French 
 artists, to be forwarded, indicate the justice of the demand 
 for more space at the hands of the Government officials. 
 
BISHOP SIMPSON. 229 
 
 M. Martel, a member of the National Assembly, and the 
 producer of the celebrated brandy which bears his name, 
 will be present in person with the rarest varieties of his 
 manufacture. The Masonic Grand Masters are busily en- , 
 gaged in teaching the one hundred Masons who are to go 
 forth to the Exhibition, representing various trades and 
 conditions, the Masonic service in English, so that they 
 will be able to converse and work with their brethren of 
 the mystic tie in America. An application has been made 
 to the Minister of Marine to establish another line of 
 steamships between Havre and Philadelphia, and as the 
 applicants represent many important interests, there is 
 every prospect that the request will be acceded to. 
 
 Bishop Simpson and his daughter, now in Paris on their 
 way home, have visited many places on the Continent, and 
 will go back to Philadelphia full of information in regard 
 to the progress of the Centennial in Europe. Everywhere 
 he went he found it an object of interest among all classes, 
 and with his wide acquaintance and ripe experience he has 
 not failed to push forward the good work. Indeed, every 
 American that I meet shows the same spirit, and you must 
 not be surprised if, in addition to the vast multitude of 
 strangers, hundreds of our own people who have lived 
 abroad for many years will next year return to their native 
 country for the purpose of witnessing what on all sides 
 promises to be a most unique and commanding display. 
 
 Paris, September, 1875. 
 
SCXD.JV IX EXGLAXD. 
 
 LIX. 
 
 The Continental and the English Sunday Street-watering. 
 
 I venture to make a few suggestions, the result of a 
 somewhat close observation during my sojourn in Europe, 
 strengthened by some recent discussions in the Philadel- 
 phia papers, first, as to what is called the Continental Sun- 
 day as contrasted with the Sunday in England. The latter 
 is the example which commends itself naturally to the 
 United States, and, while furnishing a severe contrast with 
 the license on the first day of the week in France and 
 Italy, is also best adapted to our habits and our institutions. 
 Some persons insist that the closing of the taverns in Eng- 
 lish cities during the day, and the opening of them from 
 six to twelve o'clock at night, invites and encourages- a dis- 
 creditable dissipation, and that if the rule common to the 
 Latin countries were observed here a different state of 
 things would prevail. The characteristic of the French, 
 Italians, and Germans, that which promotes an almost 
 universal sobriety, is the abstinence of the populace from 
 strong drink, while here the five or six hours of the Sun- 
 day evening during which the taverns are thrown open are 
 generally productive of the wildest and most dangerous 
 excesses. 
 
 England does not shut out her populace from all amuse- 
 ment on Sunday. Even while the grog-shops are closed, 
 all the parks and squares are open ; the railroads and omni- 
 buses are in constant operation save during church hours in 
 the morning, while through the week — and this is the point 
 to which I desire to call the attention of the Centennial 
 Commissioners and the city authorities in Philadelphia — 
 
SUNDAY STREET-WATERING. 231 
 
 such resorts as the Crystal Palace and the Alexandra Palace 
 are made attractive by many varieties of amusement, and 
 in the matter of restaurants any number at very low rates. 
 In fact, there is scarcely any kind of recreation that is not 
 made available in all the public places throughout England 
 during the week. As our great Exposition is to be nothing 
 if not cosmopolitan, the English example deserves careful 
 consideration. 
 
 No part of the great display of next year will be more 
 instructive and useful than the number of blooded horses 
 sent in from our own and other countries, and these ought 
 certainly to be furnished with opportunities to try their 
 speed. Whether the two established race-courses, that at 
 Point Breeze and that at Suffolk, can be utilized with this 
 view, is a subject for your own consideration. 
 
 In The Press just received I notice a paragraph referring 
 to the clouds of dust on Broad Street, and I can easily re- 
 call the annoyance which often arises from the same cause 
 in Fairmount Park. Here, again, we may take a leaf from 
 the experience of our English and Continental brethren. 
 The watering of the streets of London, Paris, and Brus- 
 sels, and of all their parks and open places, is one of the 
 delights of residents and travellers. During their visits to 
 the Old World, most of the Centennial Commissioners 
 have watched the process, common to every summer day, 
 so that dust on the great European thoroughfares is almost 
 unknown. I need say no more, save to add that we are 
 certainly as well provided with water as are foreigners, 
 and I believe better. The public hose here are divided 
 into sections and placed on wheels, and are never in the 
 way of travel. On warm days they are constantly em- 
 ployed, so that every road is kept free from dust of every 
 description. As you rise in the morning you find all the 
 water-plugs open and the refuse carried off from the gutters 
 into the sewers. 
 
232 THE DRAMA IN LONDON. 
 
 Bear in mind that these suggestions are not simply for the 
 Centennial, but, properly attended to now, may constitute 
 a system to last through coming generations and become 
 the example for every other city on the American Continent. 
 
 London, September, 187s. 
 
 LX. 
 
 The Drama in London. 
 
 I have not had much time for the theatres, but as public 
 amusements of the highest order must form an essential 
 feature of the Centennial, I did not neglect the double 
 impulse of inclination and duty. Drury Lane has lately 
 been dedicated to the revival of what is called the Walter- 
 Scott drama. For many weeks "Amy Robsart" has been 
 played to crowded houses. The sojourn of Queen Eliza- 
 beth at Ken il worth, and her reception by the Earl of Lei- 
 cester, makes real the superb romance of history described 
 by the "Wizard of the North." The Virgin Queen visited 
 her favorite in 1566, 1568, 1575. On the stage, as in the 
 novel, one might revel in the fascinating fictions of that 
 chivalric period, and see stately Elizabeth, courtly Sir 
 Walter Raleigh, accomplished Darnley, villainous Varney, 
 noble Tressillian, with poor Amy, who sought a refuge in 
 the Castle, and was discovered by the angry Queen. The 
 pleasures provided for the amusement of the capricious and 
 self-willed haughty monarch, the processions, the masques, 
 the music, and the ballet, were presented with all the acces- 
 sories of modern art. Old Drury has put on its royal 
 robes; it is a splendid house, with sweeping tiers, filled to 
 overflowing ; a spacious stage, a perfect orchestra, and fine 
 acting. A bust of Sir Walter Scott was in the broad en- 
 
THE DRAMA IN LONDON. 
 
 233 
 
 trance, and a Queen's Guardsman, in scarlet uniform, mus- 
 ket in hand, paced the passage, significant of the patronage 
 of the Crown for this establishment. Another of Walter 
 Scott's conceptions, the thrilling story of " The Talisman," 
 was also produced at this theatre ; with Richard of the Lion 
 Heart, Sir Kenneth, Saladin, and the grand pageant of the 
 allied armies of the Crusade. 
 
 " The School for Scandal," which was played for over a 
 hundred nights at the "Prince of Wales," was too sure a 
 card to be set aside, and is one of those old things made 
 new with fresh scenery, novel situations, and unique ren- 
 derings, so frequent in London. Thus you have Dickens, 
 Shakspeare, Bulwer, and other writers most familiar to us, 
 made over again by the genius of the playwrights. Ham- 
 let is not the Hamlet of the common stage, but another 
 character, perhaps more in keeping with the idea of the 
 great inventor. Piekwiek is a different Pickwick, and even 
 history is made to pass before you in a style wholly unlike 
 your accustomed reading. The able men who write for the 
 London theatres, the magnates who manage them, the 
 newspapers that criticise them, and the crowds who flock 
 to them, are never satisfied without some strange effect; 
 and it is wonderful how generously genius supplies the de- 
 mand, and how patronage devours and rewards it. 
 
 John S. Clarke, now as well known on the London as on 
 the American stage, has been at the Adelphi, filling his 
 house and his pockets, and Lydia Thompson at the Char- 
 ing Cross, equally prosperous. The latter startles the Lon- 
 don Times this morning with two new American actors she 
 has introduced here. The Times says: "But the great 
 event of the evening was the appearance of two American 
 actors — Messrs. Willie Edouin and John Morris — in parts 
 which scarcely pertained to the story. Of these the for- 
 mer portrayed the 'Heathen Chinee,' celebrated by the 
 pen of Bret Harte, while the latter sustained a protean 
 
 20* 
 
234 
 
 THE DRAMA IN LONDON. 
 
 character, and underwent about half a dozen changes of 
 costume, all effected in the presence of the audience. 
 These two actors, one accurately presenting a type of 
 humanity perfectly new to London, the other performing 
 a feat of ' personation' altogether unprecedented, took the 
 audience completely by surprise. The extravaganza has 
 been played with much success in the United States, and, 
 well put upon the stage, has all those attractions which 
 belong to pieces of the kind. But it is of Messrs. Edouin 
 and Morris that the town will chiefly talk." 
 
 Our actors are well received in all the English theatres. 
 Last year I found Mr. H. L. Bateman in fine feather at the 
 Lyceum, growing rich by his resistless energy, aided by his 
 two gifted daughters, Kate (Mrs. Crowe) and Isabella, the 
 latter ripening into fame and beauty and already a star. I 
 afterwards met Bateman in Paris in company with Carl Rosa 
 (poor Parepa's husband) and Brignoli, just after he had 
 seen Victor Sardou, the reigning dramatic author, who lives 
 near Paris at Marly, and who is at work on what promises 
 to be a mine of wealth in the shape of a fresh French sen- 
 sation. Sardou, whose "Uncle Sam" was a dire failure, is 
 ambitious to recover his laurels, and Bateman thought that 
 what he was then furnishing would do it. A sketch of Mr. 
 Bateman's career in London may be interesting. 
 
 The Lyceum had for years been one of the worst theatre- 
 properties in London. Fechter leased it in 1862, and had 
 only one successful season. After his lease expired the 
 house had no regular tenant. In September, 1871, Mr. 
 Bateman took the theatre for a term of years and assumed 
 the management. The opinion was universal that he too 
 would be added to the list of failures. Mr. Bateman, a 
 man of wide dramatic experience on both sides of the At- 
 lantic, saw that the house was most advantageously located, 
 well constructed, and in every way capable of being made 
 a handsome and popular theatre. He saw, too, that almost 
 
THE DRAMA IN LONDON, 
 
 235 
 
 all the leading places of amusement were given up to bur- 
 lesque, light comedy, and similar productions of little 
 solidity, and he perceived a desire on the part of the public 
 for something more real and substantial. He therefore 
 caused the house to be thoroughly renovated and rede- 
 corated, enlarged and altered the stage, removed the seats, 
 replacing them with luxuriously upholstered fauteuils, con- 
 structed on the American plan, so as to admit of easy in- 
 gress and egress by the aisles — in a word, expended a large 
 sum in making the house one of the most beautiful in Lon- 
 don. He then selected with great care a company capable 
 of rendering the best works of the great masters of dramatic 
 literature. He secured for his theatre two of the first scenic 
 artists in England, who gathered around him a corps of 
 assistants, each of whom was in his own department an 
 expert. The first play produced — entitled "Fanchette" — 
 was an earnest of what Mr. B.'s future course would be in 
 every detail of costuming, scenery, and misc-en-scene. The 
 attention of the public was at once attracted, the new order 
 of things noted, and though immediate success was not under 
 the circumstances to be anticipated, still the main point 
 had been gained, and the Lyceum was no longer avoided. 
 The next production was "Pickwick," founded upon 
 Dickens's novel, admirably cast, which added still further 
 to the reputation of the theatre. While engaging his com- 
 pany, Mr. Bateman saw Mr. Henry Irving in the part 
 of Digby Grant in the "Two Roses." He was at once 
 struck by the excellence of his acting, and, believing that 
 he saw in him the ability for a higher sphere, at once en- 
 gaged him. The third piece presented at the Lyceum was 
 one which created a great and lasting sensation. It raised 
 to eminence an artiste whose powers had never before been 
 tested, the tide of popularity flowed into Bateman's theatre, 
 and has never since turned. This play was "The Bells." 
 A psychological dramatic study of extraordinary power 
 
236 THE DRAMA IN LONDON. 
 
 and absorbing interest, it was produced with every ad- 
 vantage. Mr. Irving's superb creation of the Burgomaster 
 Mathias carried the town by storm. The play ran one 
 hundred and fifty consecutive nights to immense houses. 
 
 Miss Kate Bateman next appeared at this house, playing 
 the character of Leah for six successive weeks, and closing 
 the season with the tragedy of "Medea in Corinth," in 
 which, in the title-role, she surpassed all her previous im- 
 personations. 
 
 Mr. Bateman's first season at the Lyceum having been so 
 extraordinary, his best friends thought its second could not 
 rival it. But my redoubtable friend thought otherwise. 
 He had met and conversed much with Mr. W. G. Wills, 
 author of the " Man o' Airlie," "Hinko,"and other plays, 
 and became convinced that Wills was capable of writing a 
 grand historical play which should be in itself a marvel in 
 our time, and which would further reveal Mr. Irving's 
 talents ; and accordingly during the summer vacation 
 "Charles the First" was written, and produced on the 
 opening of the Lyceum for its second season. Its success 
 was instantaneous and continuous. Seldom, if ever, was 
 such unanimity displayed by the London journals as in their 
 recognition of the wonderful rendition of the part of Charles 
 by Mr. Irving. Miss Isabel Bateman (the second daughter), 
 as Queen Henrietta Maria, received also the warmest com- 
 mendations for her acting. The manner in which the piece 
 was placed upon the stage was commented upon by every 
 one. The play was run uninterruptedly for one hundred 
 and eighty-eight nights, being the longest run of any seri- 
 ous play on record, except Miss Bateman's performance of 
 "Leah," which ran two hundred and twelve consecutive 
 nights at the Adelphi Theatre in 1863-64. 
 
 " Charles the First" was succeeded by "Eugene Aram," 
 by the same author, fittingly designated a dramatic poem, 
 and in this Mr. Irving gave further evidence of his ability. 
 
THE DRAMA IN LONDON. 
 
 237 
 
 The triumphal season was closed by the reappearance of 
 Miss Bateman in her impersonations of Medea and Leah. 
 Upon the main attraction for his third season Mr. B. had 
 determined long before it commenced. He resolved that 
 Irving should play Richelieu, and on the occasion of the 
 late Lord Lytton's visit to the Lyceum at the performance 
 of "The Bells," presented the question to him, and re- 
 ceived the assurance that in his opinion the character could 
 not be entrusted to better hands. 
 
 "Richelieu" was produced at the commencement of the 
 third season, and, as the Cardinal, Irving far surpassed any 
 contemporaneous performer. "Richelieu" ran one hun- 
 dred and fifty consecutive nights — the best comment on the 
 merit of the performance. For his next attraction Mr. 
 Bateman was determined to produce a new play, which 
 while differing from should at the same time equal in in- 
 terest his previous productions. He therefore procured 
 from the pen of Mr. Hamilton Aide, a novelist of great 
 popularity, a play called "Philip," written expressly for 
 Mr. Bateman, and this was produced on the withdrawal of 
 " Charles I." The cast was exceptionally strong, present- 
 ing Mr. Irving in the title-role, a character well fitted to 
 display some of his most admirable characteristics; Miss 
 Isabel Bateman as the heroine. The third season was 
 brought to a brilliant close by the revival for a short period 
 of each of the great plays here named. After this, the 
 crowning triumph of all was " Hamlet," which perform- 
 ance I have previously described in detail. The Lyceum 
 closed, on the 2d of July, with the two hundredth per- 
 formance of "Hamlet." Mr. Irving, now in his thirty- 
 seventh year, looks to America as a new and extensive 
 field for the exhibition of his powers, which are very 
 great, peculiar, and original in execution, and to a large 
 extent magnetic in their influence. 
 London, September, 1875. 
 
238 SALE OF AMERICAN PRODUCTS ABROAD. 
 
 LXI. 
 
 Sale of American Products Abroad. 
 
 Sentiment is one thing, and common sense quite an- 
 other. European nations are coming to Philadelphia, not 
 alone to cultivate a better feeling with our great country, 
 not alone to ward off the possibilities of future conflicts, 
 nor, especially so far as England is concerned, to promote 
 a closer assimilation between the two English-speaking 
 peoples, but also, and chiefly, to open and maintain new 
 markets on the other side of the Atlantic. This is the 
 realistic view of the question, and it was a wise forethought 
 of the British Government, nearly two years ago, when they 
 sent forth one of the ablest men in the diplomatic service 
 at Washington to examine the various industrial centres 
 in the United States in order to find new avenues for 
 goods of British manufacture. 
 
 While Europe is coming to America for a practical ob- 
 ject, while, in fact, there is an honorable selfishness at the 
 bottom of the vast preparations for next year, let us turn to 
 another point and see how far American enterprise and 
 genius may find opportunities for compensation among 
 the European nations. The facilities between the United 
 States and foreign nations are so rapid and numerous and 
 comparatively cheap that riot many years will elapse after 
 the Centennial before we shall witness an increase of 
 mutual transatlantic commerce before which present sta- 
 tistics will pale their ineffectual figures. 
 
 I have taken some pains to gather a few facts in refer- 
 ence to the demand for American products in the Old 
 World, simply to show what Americans may expect from 
 
SALE OF AMERICAN PRODUCTS ABROAD. 
 
 2 39 
 
 this auspicious beginning. There is an imaginative aspect 
 which, relates to the contributions of American actors and 
 actresses, and also to the enormous number of our literary 
 works sold and read in foreign countries, particularly along 
 the more frequent lines of travel. In literature we can 
 point to the dictionaries of Webster and Worcester, to the 
 histories of Irving, Prescott, Motley, and Bancroft. In 
 poetry to Longfellow, Bryant, Whittier, Edgar Allan Poe, 
 James Russell Lowell, and Edmund Clarence Stedman ; 
 and in fiction and humor it may be fairly said that the 
 American writers also stand high. There is a large trade 
 in the works of " Artemus Ward," "Mark Twain," 
 "Hans Breitmann," Bret Harte, J. G. Holland, Louisa 
 M. Alcott, Nathaniel Hawthorne, J. Fenimore Cooper, 
 and William Carleton, while the works of our scientific 
 and theological writers are eagerly read and accepted in 
 the highest quarters. 
 
 It is when we come to the more substantial utilitarian 
 products that we may be most surprised. I have before 
 me now the catalogue and price-list of John G. Rollins & 
 Co., American merchants and factors, Old Swan Wharf and 
 33 King William Street, near London Bridge. This house 
 has been in existence for about fifteen years, and they are 
 doing an extensive business, equal to at least a million a 
 year, in American goods, among which the following are 
 most noteworthy : 
 
 As for American Ploughs — They have a large sale at the 
 " Cape" for an American "sulky" or "gang" plough, as 
 also in the various countries of Continental Europe for this 
 and for ordinary single-furrow ploughs; same in Australia. 
 
 Reapers and mowers they send largely to the various 
 British Colonies and to Continental Europe. 
 
 Hay-presses they are shipping in large numbers, mostly 
 for Ireland, but also for the Continent and for the colonies. 
 
 They have bought the patent right of, and manufacture 
 
240 SALE OF AMERICAN PRODUCTS ABROAD. 
 
 upon an extensive scale, one of the most popular of Amer- 
 ican lawn-mowers. That the excellence of this class of 
 American inventions is becoming yearly better recognized 
 in English markets is clearly shown by the greatly-increased 
 demand for this machine, which has been so great that they 
 have been compelled to enlarge their manufactory in order 
 to meet it. It is used in her Majesty's gardens at Bucking- 
 ham Palace and in many other public places — Hyde Park, 
 Horticultural Gardens, Battersea, Victoria and Kensing- 
 ton Parks, etc., from all of which have been received testi- 
 monials of approval expressed in most enthusiastic terms. 
 
 Corn-shellers, hay-cutters, grain and fanning-mills, rice 
 and coffee-hullers, etc., are among their regular importa- 
 tions from America. 
 
 For next season's sales they are now receiving a shipload 
 of American grindstones, which find a ready market in 
 Great Britain and on the Continent. For small harvesting 
 goods, such as scythes, snaths, rakes, and forks, they have 
 a large sale, but more notably for the celebrated forks 
 made by Messrs. Batcheller & Sons, of Wallingford, Vt. 
 They are now receiving orders by thousands of dozens from 
 single houses for these forks for next year's use. Shovels, 
 spades, picks, and draining-tools form a very large part of 
 their trade. Of these they ship immense quantities to 
 Australia and New Zealand. Another large branch of 
 their business is in handles. They ship by hundreds of 
 cases every variety of American-made fork, axe, pick, 
 broom, adze, and small-tool handles to Great Britain, the 
 Continent, and to the Colonies. They ship large quan- 
 tities also of various kinds of farmers' and gardeners' small 
 tools, such as hoes, floral, grass, lawn, and garden rakes, 
 pruning shears, etc. Wood ware, such as tubs, pails, wash- 
 boards, clothes-pins, toy pails, etc., make a large branch in 
 themselves. 
 
 There is also an extensive sale of American folding 
 
SALE OF AMERICAN PRODUCTS ABROAD. 
 
 241 
 
 chairs, which are becoming very popular because of their 
 peculiar lightness and ingenuity of construction, which en- 
 ables them to be folded into smaller space when not in use 
 than European productions. They also have a very large 
 sale for ordinary chairs and other American furniture. The 
 next items which attract attention in their extensive general 
 catalogue are such domestic articles as wringing-machines, 
 carpet-sweepers, ice-cream freezers, apple-parers, egg-beat- 
 ers, churns, sewing-machines, etc., in all of which, espe- 
 cially the latter, they have an almost unlimited trade. They 
 sell large quantities of our plated ware. In American clocks 
 they carry a very large stock of various kinds, which are 
 well received, now that they are known to be thoroughly 
 reliable. Some of their largest articles of trade are the 
 pumps and hydraulic machinery made in Middletown, 
 Conn. Their catalogue contains over two hundred dif- 
 ferent varieties of these pumps, etc., and their sale in all 
 markets is literally enormous. 
 
 This firm represent in England several well-known Amer- 
 ican houses: in Boston, Troy, Wallingford, New York, 
 New Haven, and many others. They are sole English 
 agents for the celebrated Otis Excavating Machine, made 
 in Boston. They have recently imported one of these 
 enormous machines, which is in successful operation at the 
 extension of the Royal Albeit Docks at Hull, excavating 
 at the rate of eighteen hundred cubic yards per day. 
 
 This enterprising firm well knows the value of " printers' 
 ink," therefore I was not surprised to learn'that they have 
 long since made themselves known the "world over" as 
 " pushing" American merchants. They have issued an ex- 
 tensive series of catalogues descriptiveof their numerous arti- 
 cles of trade, and these are distributed broadcast throughout 
 Europe and the British colonies. In addition to this they 
 have travelling agents constantly "on the road" in Eng- 
 land, Ireland, and on the Continent, and periodically send 
 
 L 21 
 
242 SALE OF AMERICAN PRODUCTS ABROAD. 
 
 a representative around the world on their account— call- 
 ing at Australian, New Zealand, Chinese, Japanese, Indian, 
 and Sandwich Island ports, and they strive to maintain 
 at home the name their representatives create for them 
 abroad. 
 
 Next we have Charles Churchill & Co., American mer- 
 chants, No. 28 Wilson Street, Finsbury, dealers in Ameri- 
 can tools, machinery, pumps, oil-stones, and chase-pipe 
 screwing machines. Their head house is in New York, 
 and their London catalogue covers fifty-nine closely-printed 
 folio pages, with photographs of their different manufac- 
 tures and inventions. Their pipe-cutting and threading 
 machines are in large use and warmly commended by many 
 English houses, while their American endorsers include 
 most of the sugar-refiners, railroad companies, and machin- 
 ists in our country. Their patent dies and lightning plates, 
 their screwing machines, their parallel vises, their swivelled- 
 jaw vises, their rocking swivelled vises, their combination 
 bell-punch, their universal rolling machine, their belt fas- 
 teners, their improved oilers, their upright self-feeding 
 drills, their patent planers, their drilling machines of all 
 kinds, their various car-wheel chucks, their iron-cutters, 
 their foot-lathes, their apple-parer and egg-beater, their 
 hand planing machine, their automatic tool grinder, with 
 many other inventions, not only exhibit American inge- 
 nuity in a new light, but show the magnitude of their 
 trade, supplemented as it is by the highest testimonials, 
 including the medals awarded at the Vienna Exhibition in 
 
 1873- 
 
 A recent article in the London Times described the new 
 trade in shovels and edged tools which has grown up in 
 England under the auspices of the enterprising firm of 
 Hussey, Binns & Co., at Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. The 
 catalogue and price-list of the Brown & Sharpe Manufac- 
 turing Company, manufacturers of machinery and tools, 
 
SALE OF AMERICAN PRODUCTS ABROAD. 
 
 2 43 
 
 and of Darling, Brown & Sharpe, manufacturers of United 
 States standard tools, cast-steel iron squares, American 
 standard wire-gauges, and a variety of tools for accurate 
 measurements, the chief house being at Providence, Rhode 
 Island, both exhibit a large European patronage. Their 
 various machines have been introduced into Germany, 
 Belgium, Norway, France, and England, and they secured 
 a silver medal at Paris in 1867, and one at Vienna in 1873. 
 H. Disston & Sons, of Philadelphia, are also largely sell- 
 ing their products in Germany. Mr. D. Strunk, the effi- 
 cient agent of a firm at Janesville, Wisconsin, which is 
 engaged in the manufacture of agricultural implements, 
 has been eminently successful in introducing reapers and 
 mowers in North Germany, Denmark, and other countries. 
 Woods & Co., of 36 Worship Street, have opened a large 
 trade in American reapers and mowers in England, and 
 other reapers — as the Buckeye and the McCormick — have 
 attained great popularity. On Queen Victoria Street is 
 the branch house of the Remington Rifle Company, the 
 parent manufactory being at Ilion, New York. This branch 
 is said to be doing a larger business than any other manu- 
 facturer of arms in London. About two years ago they 
 commenced the introduction of their sporting rifle and 
 pistol here, and have met with great success. The Ameri- 
 can sewing-machines are everywhere, of every description, 
 having almost complete command of the English and Con- 
 tinental market. Philadelphia is represented in London 
 by the American Sewing-Machine and Buttonhole Com- 
 pany, and there are thriving agencies for the sale of others. 
 The great Hoe fast printing-press manufacturers lead all 
 competitors here and on the Continent. The finest part 
 of their work is imported from America, but their heavy 
 castings are made here, where they have also an office, a 
 repair-shop, and other buildings. They furnish most of the 
 daily papers of London, including Times and Telegraph, 
 
244 SALE OF AMERICAN PRODUCTS ABROAD. 
 
 with their presses. The Waltham Watch Company have a 
 splendid establishment in High Holborn, and near by is 
 the branch of the Elgin Watch Company. The latter com- 
 pany have an agency located in St. Petersburg, and the 
 former are rapidly extending their trade to all parts of 
 Europe. The American tramways (for street cars) are 
 already in operation in London, Liverpool, Manchester, 
 and Birmingham, and in Paris, Antwerp, Brussels, Berlin, 
 and Wiesbaden, they are not only profitable investments, 
 but greatly preferred by the people to any other mode of 
 locomotion. While all these are founded on the American 
 model, and some of them are still conducted by Ameri- 
 cans, they are gradually passing under foreign control. 
 The statistics of the trade in petroleum, of which the 
 house of Peter Wright & Sons, of Philadelphia, may be 
 called the chief, shows that all over Europe, and even in 
 Asia, that peculiar product, although now suffering from an 
 overabundant supply, is certain at no distant day to enter 
 into universal consumption. London and Antwerp are the 
 chief European distribution points for petroleum. 
 
 The high price of American pianos, with a heavy impor- 
 tation duty upon them, prevents their sale abroad, but their 
 excellence is everywhere admitted and commended, espe- 
 cially by musical professors; the cabinet organ of Mason 
 & Hamlin, which was used by Mr. Sankey at the recent 
 large gatherings in Great Britain, is now being fast intro- 
 duced into family and chapel use, while the firm of George 
 Wood & Co. are also opening a successful trade in the same 
 line. 
 
 The capital employed in American cheese is something 
 enormous, and there is a constant and an immense demand 
 for that cheese in the English markets. 
 
 The pottery works which have been going on for some 
 years at Trenton, New Jersey, may be called the promise 
 of a great manufacturing interest, and a gentleman recently 
 
SALE OF AMERICAN PRODUCTS ABROAD. 
 
 245 
 
 from Staffordshire assures me the interest can readily be 
 extended into all our States and a large trade built up. 
 The English manufacturers admit that we have the peculiar 
 varieties of clay necessary for the finest descriptions of 
 earthenware, now become a fashionable product. Ceramic 
 ware is the mania all over Europe, and the porcelain, 
 parian, majolica, the various Wedgwood conceptions, in- 
 cluding the magnificent tiles of Minton, the exquisite 
 works in flowers and in statuary — all these, now exclusively 
 in the hands of the great Staffordshire establishments, may 
 in the course of time be successfully imitated by American 
 skilled labor, and thus, though we may not enter into com- 
 petition with these unrivalled masters of the art, we may at 
 least finally keep at home the money now spent here, and 
 in this aspect the beautiful specimens that will be shown at 
 Philadelphia next year will be so many unconscious edu- 
 cators of our people. 
 
 The Pullman and the Mann palace and sleeping-carriages 
 are only the commencement of what is certain to become 
 a profitable business; and already the air-brakes of West- 
 inghouse and Smith have been introduced on some of the 
 leading railways. 
 
 The venerable Mr. Goodyear, the pioneer in the india- 
 rubber trade, is now in London, and the enormous demand 
 for the endless varieties of india-rubber or gutta-percha 
 goods shows how his example and enterprise have been fol- 
 lowed. 
 
 American canned fruit is to be found, not only in Lon- 
 don, but all over the Continent. In fact, there is not a 
 metropolis or town in which American signs and placards 
 are not frequently seen; and it is stated that if the Ameri- 
 can and British travel were to cease in Italy flourishing cities 
 would be comparatively desolate. 
 
 American locomotives are supplied to Russia notwith- 
 standing our high protective tariff. That able and candid 
 
 21* 
 
246 SALE OF AMERICAN PRODUCTS ABROAD. 
 
 Englishman, Professor I. Lothian Bell, in his paper read 
 before the Iron and Steel Institute of London in May, 
 1875, says, " High prices enable the American iron-mas- 
 ters and machine-makers to pay high wages, which has so 
 fostered the inventive genius of our relations across the 
 water that the economy with which they can construct 
 machinery, and its excellence when constructed, render 
 them able successfully to compete with the old country. 
 No one can deny the existence of great ingenuity on the 
 part of the American mechanicians, and I deem it simple 
 justice to place their achievements as a worthy continua- 
 tion of what had been effected in this country by their 
 ancestors and pursued since by their cousins." 
 
 Last but not least in this interesting summary is the 
 valuable trade of Fairbanks & Co., manufacturers of Amer- 
 ican railway and other weigh bridges, rolling-mill, ware- 
 house, and other weighing machines, adjusted to the stand- 
 ards of all nations; also, platform, counter, and small 
 scales for farmers, millers, seedsmen, dairy, and general 
 use. Such is the variety of these scales that they range 
 from the tiniest contrivances to weigh letters, drugs, and 
 gold, up to the railway scales capable of ascertaining the 
 weight of an entire train at once. This firm is well known 
 in Philadelphia. Their indefatigable European agent and 
 representative, our fellow- citizen, Mr. George C. Ewing, 
 Jr., is now established at 34 King William Street, London. 
 Fairbanks' scales are found everywhere. They can weigh 
 from a pennyweight to a boat-load of five hundred tons. 
 You find them -in China, Japan, India, Persia, Turkey, 
 Arabia, and the Barbary States. Caravans of camels 
 loaded with these scales tread the deserts of Arabia, and 
 Chinese junks carry them far into the vast interior of 
 the Celestial Empire. Their yearly sales amount to over 
 two millions of dollars. Their annual product is fifty 
 thousand scales of three hundred different sizes. It is not 
 
SALE OF AMERICAN PRODUCTS ABROAD. 247 
 
 many years since three members of this family, one of 
 whom still survives, founded the famous factory at St. 
 Johnsbury, Vermont, which is to-day the largest of the 
 kind in the world. It employs six hundred men, and with 
 its branches gives work to four hundred more. They are 
 now used everywhere in England, and are recognized as 
 standard weighing instruments. There were four thousand 
 seven hundred and forty-seven scales manufactured at their 
 works during the month of April, 1875, being nine hundred 
 and seventy-five more than during the same time in 1874. 
 The company are now filling a large order to be sent to 
 Mexico and St. Petersburg. An instance of the immense 
 patronage extended to this wonderful invention is the single 
 fact that in the past seventeen years seventeen millions four 
 hundred and ninety-seven thousand three hundred and 
 twenty-five live animals have been weighed upon Fair- 
 banks' scales in the Union stock-yards of Chicago, a total 
 that would outweigh the entire human population of North 
 and South America; and of the sixteen hundred now in use 
 on railroads not one has yet been reported as breaking down. 
 These scales have been put on the leading railways of 
 England, and a thirty-ton scale is now being constructed 
 for the Midland, between Liverpool and London. The 
 company are also engaged in fulfilling a contract for eleven 
 thirty-ton scales in Sweden, besides having furnished a 
 number of scales of smaller sizes. But they are applied to 
 hundreds of other purposes, not only for light but for the 
 heaviest weights. Fourteen different European govern- 
 ments have adopted these standard scales, including Rus- 
 sia, France, Denmark, Spain, Prussia, and Austria. Their 
 value on the railroads in Europe, not alone in America, is 
 proved by their extraordinary accuracy, and necessitated 
 by the constant blunders in the weighing of baggage, a 
 source of endless annoyance to travellers. The highest 
 prizes were awarded for these scales at the Paris Exhibi- 
 
248 SALE OF AMERICAN PRODUCTS ABROAD. 
 
 tion in 1867, at the Vienna Exposition in 1873, and at the 
 great fairs in New York, Lowell, Baltimore, Cincinnati, 
 and Atlanta. The imperial order of the '-Knightly" 
 Cross was conferred by the Emperor of Austria upon Thad- 
 deus Fairbanks, the surviving inventor of Fairbanks' scales. 
 W. Hepworth Dixon, the well-known English writer, has 
 written several letters from St. Johnsbury, Vermont, in the 
 past few years, which were printed in the Edinburgh Daily 
 Review, and I cannot better close this description than by 
 an extract from his account of the town where the scales 
 are chiefly manufactured : 
 
 " We are seated in a small but handsome public gallery in front of Bier- 
 stadt's famous picture of the Yosemite Valley, with the glorious domes 
 and sparkling cataract of spray, crowned by a mass of gray and silvery 
 cloud, through which the blue of the pacific sky breaks here and there — 
 the masterpiece of this great master of American landscape. Some other 
 specimens of the young and energetic American school — landscapes by 
 James Hart and by William Hart ; an Indian summer in the woods, by T. 
 McEntee ; an emigrant's corral on the prairie, by Samuel Coleman, and 
 a noticeable view of the Catskill Mountains and the Hudson Valley, by S. 
 R. Gifford — court our eyes and dare our criticism. Books, cases, carvings, 
 lie about — each choice in kind, and useful for illustration of peculiar arts. 
 Behind us stretches a suite of rooms containing books, and what belongs to 
 books when they are used for serious work, a collection well selected, 
 brightly bound, and handsomely shelved, rich in works of English litera- 
 ture, and especially rich, as such a collection ought to be, in works on 
 American history and topography, beginning with the earliest notice of the 
 Indian tribes and coming down to the last debate on the Maine liquor law. 
 Behind this library lies a public reading-room, supplied with magazines 
 and periodicals in great variety, both English and American. Gallery, 
 library, and reading-room are free to all the inhabitants of the place, and 
 to all strangers who are properly introduced. A cosier place to read and 
 write in could hardly be contrived ; in fact, this Athenaeum is a literary and 
 artistic gem. 
 
 " Where are we? In some great and wealthy capital — some city of his- 
 toric fame, the home of great traditions and the heir of much inherited 
 wealth? Are we in a university — a rival of Harvard and Yale? In none 
 of these; in none like these. We are not in a city — not even in a town. 
 Our place is called a village. 
 
 " Let us step out of the picture-gallery, leaving Bierstadt's stately domes 
 
SALE OF AMERICAN PRODUCTS ABROAD. 
 
 249 
 
 and shining spray, into the street. It is a wide, green lane, with lines of 
 maple-trees in all the splendor of an Indian summer in their leaves. This 
 green lane is Main Street. On either side stand cottages and mansions, 
 built of wood and painted white, with delicate green shutters and veran- 
 das running over fluted columns. Here and there rise piles of greater 
 consequence ; a handsome court-house and town-hall, in front of which 
 stands Mead's fine group of ' Fallen Heroes.' A still more handsome 
 building called the Academy — a high school conducted by Rev. H. T. 
 Fuller — and adjoining it South Hall, a residence for the principal and 
 boarding-house for the students. Here is a church and here a grammar 
 school. Turning towards the edifice we have left, we find it is a red-brick 
 building, in the Tudor style, not wanting in a kind of solid dignity. The 
 sky lines are good. Yet the place is only a New England village, with the 
 population of two or three London streets. 
 
 " Lovely as the scenery of a dream is the situation of St. Johnsbury. 
 Sliding out of White River Junction, a spot to recall some favorite nook 
 in the Neckar Valley, you push into a gorge of singular beauty, with along 
 reach of the Connecticut River lying under high and wooded hills of varied 
 form and wondrous brightness. Pine and maple, oak and chestnut, clothe 
 the slopes. White houses lie about ; some in secret places, utterly alone 
 with nature, others in groups and village systems, with their gardens, fruit- 
 trees, and patches of maize, in which the orange gourds lie burning in the 
 sun. Sometimes the hills fall back, and give up grassy banks and even 
 meadow to the grazier. Then the scene is animated by herds of cattle and 
 squads of horses. But the charm of the landscape is the water — first, of 
 the Connecticut, afterwards of the Passumpsic ; for these water-courses 
 combine the beauties of flowing rivers with those of mountain streams — 
 here frisking over rocks in small cascades, there singing in and out of 
 broken stones and over pebbly beds, now sweeping slowly, with a kind of 
 matronly dignity, between the level banks. A pause occurs; we leave the 
 cars ; we mount a gentle slope ; and we are in the main street of St. Johns- 
 burv, with its Athenaeum, court-house, and Academy in our front and on 
 our flank, and leaf-strewn avenues on our right and left. 
 
 "Eye of man has rarely seen, and heart of man has hardly conceived, a 
 residence of men more perfect, save for those who cannot stand the healthy 
 rigor of a Vermont winter. Nature has been lavish of her gifts. A ridi;e 
 of hill — here called a plain — rises between two streams, the Passumpsic 
 River and Sleeper's Creek. Uplands start from the nether bank of both 
 these streams, and shut us in with green and purple heights, on which the 
 sunrise and sunset play with wondrous harmonies of light and shade. This 
 village is made of scales. We seem to eat scales and drink scales. We 
 are lodged in scales, are weighed in scales, and driven about in scales. We 
 have our minds engaged with scales, with casting, notching, polishing, and 
 testing scales, from sunrise to sunset. Scales are in the air, in the roadway, 
 L* 
 
250 
 
 SALE OF AMERICAN PRODUCTS ABROAD. 
 
 and on the waters. Scales have dredged the Sleeper's Creek and bridged 
 the Passumpsic River. Scales have brought one railway line up the valley 
 from White River Junction, and are pushing another line through the 
 mountains to St. Albans and Lake Champlain. In short, scales are here 
 the power, the inspiration, and the means of all material progress. In other 
 places justice may have one pair of scales; in St. Tohnsbury civilization 
 herself would be nothing without a thousand pair of scales." 
 
 A. B. G. Northrop, recently appointed Commissioner of 
 Education for the Empire of Japan, writes of St. Johns- 
 bury as follows: 
 
 " It has long been a marvel how such a concern could be made a per- 
 manent success for nearly fifty years in this remote corner of the State, so 
 far from tide-water, with heavy and expensive freightage, the items of coal 
 and iron being yearly about ten thousand tons, with numerous other sup- 
 plies from Boston or New York, and the necessity of transporting the 
 manufactured products to the seaboard. Throughout New England the 
 tendency of manufacturers has been from the interior to the seaside. The 
 cost of transportation has led them to abandon old sites and water-privi- 
 leges far inland and build nearer the great markets. For this reason, though 
 they must there run by steam only, manufactories are multiplying in New 
 Haven and along'the shore to New York more rapidly than elsewhere in 
 Connecticut. But in St. Johnsbury, notwithstanding these great disad- 
 vantages, the business has steadily grown and become a success, which, in 
 view of the difficulties overcome, is unparalleled in this country. 
 
 " Now, what is the explanation of this marvellous prosperity? What is 
 the condition of the workmen? These points I came here to investigate. 
 For this purpose I inspected the works, covering ten acres, examined the 
 processes, talked freely with the hands as well as with the owners and with 
 the citizens of St. johnsbury not connected with the factory. To observe 
 the home-life of the operatives, I entered their houses and conversed with 
 their families. These inquiries brought out facts and inferences which will, 
 I think, be of interest and use alike to employers and employed generally. 
 
 "There is a superior class of workmen in this establishment. All are 
 males. Their work is proof of skill. Their looks and conversation indi- 
 cate intelligence. They are mostly Americans, and come from the sur- 
 rounding towns. More than half of them are married and settled here as 
 permanent residents, interested in the schools and in all that relates to the 
 prosperity of the place. Many of them own their houses, with spacious 
 grounds for yard and garden, and often a barn for the poultry and cow. 
 These houses are pleasing in their exterior, neatly furnished, and many of 
 them supplied with pianos and tapestry carpets. How different from the 
 
SALE OF AMERICAN PRODUCTS ABROAD. 
 
 25 1 
 
 nomadic factory population swarming from Canada and from other lands 
 to densely crowded tenement-houses, who never bind themselves to civili- 
 zation by home, much less by a house of their own ! The tenement-houses, 
 also, are inviting and comfortable, and surrounded with unusually large 
 grounds. The town is managed on temperance principles, and drunken- 
 ness, disorder, and strife among the hands are almost unknown. Most of 
 them are church-goers, many of them church-members. 
 
 " I examined the pay-roll and found the wages very liberal. The work- 
 men seem well satisfied on that score. Wherever it is possible the work 
 is paid for by the piece. The work itself is largely done by machinery, 
 and that sui generis, invented here and for the special and peculiar results 
 here reached. The men are encouraged to expedite their processes by 
 new inventions, and share largely in the benefits of all such improvements. 
 I conversed with one of the hands who invented a curious apparatus by 
 which he marks a hundred register-bars with greater accuracy and in but 
 little more time than he could formerly do one. He now finds working 
 by the job especially profitable. Paying by the piece has worked well 
 here. The men say it is fairer to pay for results than by hours. The 
 worth of labor depends upon its products. This plan stimulates industry, 
 promotes skill, and fosters inventiveness.- It apportions awards to the 
 quantity and quality of the work done. But more than all, this plan is 
 nized by the men as just and satisfactory. With the time left 
 practically to their own choice, there is no eight-hour movement here. 
 No ' labor league' or union has ever existed — no strike ever been sug- 
 d. Tins would be a poor place for the Internationals to preach the 
 gospel of idleness or agrarianism. Imagine one of these delegates just 
 arrived at St. Johnsbury and beginning his arguments for a strike with 
 
 Mr. , whose house I visited ! 1 fancy him replying somewhat as 
 
 he did to my inquiry: 'Why is it you never have any strikes here.' 1 ' 
 'Well, we have a good set of nun to start with — temperate and moral. 
 Then we are well paid. Wages have often been advanced. The owners 
 take an interest in the men.' " 
 
 From this somewhat rapid summary, necessarily incom- 
 plete, the American people will understand that while 
 their country is a new field to European skill and capital, 
 Europe is not less interesting to them. The London Daily 
 Telegraph, commenting upon the ruin of the Bank of 
 California and the death of Mr. Ralston, says, " We in 
 England are, for the present at any rate, fortunately secure 
 from such catastrophes. Our wealth is so vast, and our 
 trade upon the whole so sound, that no speculator, or even 
 
252 
 
 SALE OF AMERICAN PRODUCTS ABROAD. 
 
 ring of speculators, has the power to destroy an essentially- 
 sound concern; and combinations such as that of the New 
 York gold ring, or of Messrs. Flood and O'Brien, are prac- 
 tically unknown in the magic region which lies east of 
 Temple Bar." 
 
 This suggestion, though somewhat boastful, is distinctly 
 true as to the large wealth accumulated in London and in 
 most of the European capitals. This wealth, much of it, 
 is secured at very low rates of interest, yet there can be 
 no doubt that as our American panic passes off, a whole- 
 some condition must follow the succession of calamities 
 under which we have been prostrated, Europe will again 
 turn to the United States as at once the most remuner- 
 ative, and, after such an experience as that we have en- 
 dured, the safest spot of earth in which to invest money: 
 the most remunerative, because the most productive and 
 prosperous ; the safest, because rescued from all dangers 
 of revolution and war ; and in the same connection we 
 must not forget, with the several examples I have quoted, 
 that there is no portion of the globe in which the peculiar 
 skill and originality of the American people will find so 
 wide and so tempting an arena upon which to exercise 
 their genius and skill as in the wealthy countries of the 
 Old World. 
 
 London, September, 1875. 
 
LONDON JOURNALISM ON AMERICAN TOPICS. 253 
 
 XLII. 
 
 London Journalism on American Topics. — Politico-Religious Issues. 
 
 It is really surprising, notwithstanding a steady crusade 
 of criticism upon the United States, how much sincere 
 praise and good counsel are intermingled with the censor- 
 ship. To read the London daily newspapers is in itself a 
 task, for each is a sort of cyclopedia of news and comment. 
 London is the focus of modern commerce, where the largest 
 amount of the world's money is accumulated, and where 
 every subject interesting to human development is con- 
 stantly examined and discussed. It is noteworthy that 
 nothing attracts so much attention as the growth of the 
 United States, and you may rest assured that while our 
 good traits are not concealed, the weak features of our sys- 
 tem are constantly laid open. To-day, for instance, The 
 Times has two articles bearing upon this point. One, on 
 the appointment of the six new cardinals at Rome by Pope 
 Pius, closes as follows : 
 
 " The mere presence of Cardinal McCloskey would suffice to teach the 
 authorities of the Roman Church that they must be very cautious indeed' 
 in the practical assertion of her claims to absolute supremacy. To the 
 United States of America they can look with some degree of comfort. 
 There emigration from the Old World, and especially from Ireland, is rais- 
 ing a Catholic community which may in time be more numerous than that 
 of some exclusive Catholic countries. The American Catholics are build- 
 ing splendid churches and spreading rapidly. They have gained great 
 political power, and they sometimes control the election in certain towns. 
 With much foresight they have bought large strips of land by the side of 
 the railways which run westward, and thus their Church will soon have 
 a princely endowment. They may also win many converts from rich 
 classes eager to find some greater relief from the bareness of democracy 
 than the bareness of Protestantism. But the prospects of the Catholics in 
 America would indeed be blighted it they were to make arrogant claims of 
 
 22 
 
254 LONDON JOURNALISM ON AMERICAN TOPICS. 
 
 political superiority. Somehow they must accommodate the overshadow- 
 ing pretensions of the Vatican to the modest part they have to play yet a 
 while. They must not only make terms with the democracy, but speak its 
 language, use its instruments, and try to outdo it at its own work. Nay, 
 the Vatican itself must soon set itself to the same task, if it would avert 
 losses in the Old World which will more than outweigh the gains in the 
 New. The present Pope, of course, will never so far bend to the neces- 
 sities of modern society, but his successor will doubtless be more pliable, 
 and so elastic are the doctrines of the Papacy, when manipulated skilfully, 
 that Rome may still make a bold bid for democratic favor. Ultimate suc- 
 cess she will not attain, for the genius of her whole system is alien from the 
 free life of modern society ; but she may gain temporary triumphs even in 
 places where she now excites animosity by the vehemence of her intoler- 
 ance." 
 
 The other article treats of the prospects for the supply of 
 food or wheat to Great Britain for the year 1876, and con- 
 cludes as follows : 
 
 "A very small rise of price in our market tells amazingly upon countries 
 where money is scarce, where it is more a matter of account than a thing a 
 man can see and handle, and where fixed deductions leave out of every pay- 
 ment a very small margin for the nominal recipient. It would be most inter- 
 esting to see whether a rise often shillings a quarter would really fail to extract 
 from the rye-eating populations of Russia and Germany more than the tenth 
 or eleventh of the wheat crop — all they send us now ; still more, whether it 
 would fail to draw hither from France more than a fortieth of her own wheat. 
 She is holding on for good prices, Mr. Caird thinks, and, notwithstanding 
 her reverses, is not an easy seller. We once received 1,800,000 quarters 
 from her at fifty shillings ; but that, it seems, is not likely soon to recur. But 
 Ave have to go further for our chief purveyors. When people talk of our 
 putting our fortunes, our lives, and our national existence into the hands of 
 foreigners, they may not be always aware that it is the citizen of the United 
 States and the Canadian whom we have made the masters of our destiny. 
 More than half our foreign wheat comes from them, and it follows that the 
 American harvest is more important to us than the Irish or Scotch, and, it 
 may be said, nearly as important as the English itself. The difficulty of any 
 estimate lies, not in the remoteness, for distance is nothing in these days, 
 but in the fact that every item of information comes through those who are 
 deeply interested in keeping the truth to themselves However, they can- 
 not quite conceal it, for they buy and sell, and the public prices tell tales. 
 Mr. Caird thinks the prospect not so cheerful in that direction. There have 
 been short crops both on the Eastern and Western shores, and the question 
 is said to be everywhere one of deficiency, more or less. Let us hope that 
 
LONDON JOURNALISM ON AMERICAN TOPICS. 255 
 
 it is somewhat over-early to know the truth when the harvest is scarcely 
 yet in. At any rate, from one quarter or another we cannot doubt that our 
 wants will be well supplied." 
 
 In reference to popular education in England compared 
 with popular education in America, the Daily News, lately, 
 commenting upon Mr. Gladstone's recent speech before the 
 Havvarden Literary Institute, says, — 
 
 " It would be superfluous to dwell on the advantages of such institutions 
 as that which Mr. Gladstone addressed in helping the work of popular 
 education. They are not, as a rule, very common or very successful in 
 England, or at least in the south of England, and we do not know whether 
 they are very strong in Wales. In some of our northern and midland 
 counties they flourish with a certain vigor. In Scotland they really consti- 
 tute an important element in the national education. In many of the 
 States of the American Union they find their greatest favor. A town, a 
 city of a dozen years' existence and a street and a half of population, will 
 have its lyceum, with its reading-rooms, its class-rooms, and its winter 
 course of lectures. These institutions, some philosophers say, engender 
 superficial ways of reading and thinking. But we are inclined to believe 
 that the choice is between superficial reading and no reading; and we 
 should like to know how many really profound readers all our universities 
 together annually turn out. Mr. Gladstone thinks that in all classes 
 throughout this country we are a rather indolent people as regards mental 
 cultivation." 
 
 On the same subject The Times of the same day makes 
 the following admission : 
 
 " But the one great obstacle to be overcome is that of which Mr. Glad- 
 stone spoke in his reference to Scotland. It is the utter inefficiency of 
 the education of English laborers for any permanent intellectual culture. 
 Mental culture and the enjoyment of intellectual pleasures are impossible 
 without a thorough facility in reading. Until this faculty is acquired, the 
 perusal of a book or a newspaper is the very reverse of a recreation. It 
 is an exercise of the attention of the most fatiguing kind ; and after a long 
 day's work it is too much to expect of a laboring man. The greatest prob- 
 lem, perhaps, remaining to be solved in popular education in England is 
 that of abolishing this preliminary incompetence. There can be no insu- 
 perable difficulty in the task ; for, as we have said, it seems to be accom- 
 plished on the Continent, and is probably accomplished in America. But 
 in England, at present, the average schoolboy is pushed just far enough up 
 the hill of the six standards to roll back with great velocity the moment the 
 
256 LONDON JOURNALISM ON AMERICAN TOPICS. 
 
 pressure of school is removed. Reading and writing have never become 
 to him anything but troublesome labors, and he feels no temptation to seek 
 recreation in occupations to which they form the avenue. The dullest of 
 those indolent intellects which Mr. Gladstone recognizes in other classes of 
 society finds an occasional diversion from grosser amusements in a novel ; 
 and a laboring boy need not be clever to read well enough to enjoy a 
 similarly harmless stimulation of a languid mental circulation. The lit- 
 erary and scientific institutes of a generation ago began by putting the cart 
 before the horse ; and we have been slowly putting the motive-power in 
 its right place ever since. By all means let such institutions be sustained 
 and utilized in the manner of which Mr. Gladstone sets so good an exam- 
 ple. But their vitality, as he says, depends on the intelligence of the mass 
 of the population, and that depends on the success of the schoolmaster. 
 We have now provided the machinery of education in abundance, and we 
 have no lack of exhortations to make use of it. Will no one set the ex- 
 ample or show the way of laying the necessary foundations for this intel- 
 lectual superstructure ?" 
 
 Colonel Muter, in the Anglo-American Times, of the 
 17th, commences an article on the Roman Catholics in 
 America as follows : 
 
 " It is noteworthy, though not much noted, to witness the decline in the 
 spirit of animosity exhibited by the Irish in America towards England. 
 As the field for the exercise of the agitators' eloquence narrowed, in the 
 decrease of the sentiment upon which they worked, fewer were enticed, 
 and the two causes acting and reacting on each other have carried ' Irish 
 grievances' out of the category of insufferable bores, so long inflicted 
 upon foreign countries, especially the United States. It is noticed in the 
 British Colonies how admirably adapted the Irish are to make prosperous 
 and contented settlers, and they would long before have lost the ranting 
 character acquired in America, had it not been that the masses, found 
 grouped in a few cities, furnished the professional agitator with a profitable 
 means for exercising his vocation. When his denunciation of English 
 tyranny had elicited free contributions, it became necessary that something 
 practical should be done for the money, hence the Fenian invasions, which 
 cast discredit on the agitators, and lessened materially the area for their 
 operations, which ever since has been a diminishing domain. Those who 
 read any of the well-edited papers of the Irish-Americans will perceive 
 the change very distinctly marked. There is none of that wholesale abuse 
 of England and the English which formerly characterized such organs; 
 none of that disregard for facts and the truths of history which made un- 
 prejudiced persons receive their assertions with a -discount so liberal. The 
 questions are discussed with moderation and on their merits, according to 
 
LONDON JOURNALISM ON AMERICAN TOPICS. 257 
 
 the light of the journalists who deal with them; and, instead of relating 
 to their kindred in a distant island, these questions for the most part now 
 have reference to themselves, as members of the community settled on the 
 continent of America." 
 
 Mr. Horace White, late of the Chicago Tribune, has 
 secured the endorsement of the Standard, the leading Con- 
 servative organ, as will be seen from the following: 
 
 " We would invite the attention of our readers to a very interesting 
 article in this month's number of the Fortnightly Review, entitled 'An 
 American's Impressions of England.' It is the first paper in the number, 
 and will be found exceedingly well worth perusal. The opinions formed 
 by an able, observant, and impartial foreigner on the institutions, customs, 
 manners, and circumstances amidst which we have grown up from child- 
 hood are always instructive. But they are especially so in the present 
 instance. An American, speaking our own language and inheriting so 
 large a portion of our traditions, feelings, and modes of thought, is neces- 
 sarily better able to enter into the spirit of our social and political system 
 than the native of a continental country can possibly be. And Mr. White 
 is a distinguished American writer. Moreover, Mr. White conveys his 
 impressions by drawing a contrast between his own country and ours. 
 This it is which constitutes the special interest of his paper. Of all foreign 
 countries the United States most nearly resemble the United Kingdom. 
 Tiny have been settled by our own people, they have inherited our 
 language, our religion, and our institutions. Have they upon new soil 
 and under a democratic form of government developed a higher civiliza- 
 tion, or, at ;8ay rate, a better and a happier society? Or have they by 
 transplantation lost any of the excellences of the old home? Or, finally, 
 h ive they simply perpetuated the prepossessions which they took with 
 them ? We know the answers which Englishmen give to these questions, 
 but what is the reply of a cultured and thoughtful American revisiting the 
 country of his ancestors ? The key-note of his remark is struck in the 
 following passage: 'In recording some of the impressions which a first 
 visit to England makes upon an American, I mention this as the most 
 striking in its effect upon my own mind. The new Republic has, if any- 
 thing, veered towards Monarchy, while the old Monarchy has manifestly 
 drifted to Republicanism. It seems rather a startling thing to say, that 
 England is more republican than the United States, but I have ventured 
 to say it in an American publication, and I repeat it here." In this pas- 
 it will be understood that by ' republican,' Mr. White means a 
 country in which 'public opinion acts more speedily, surely, and effect- 
 ively' than in another. In this sense the statement will not be new to 
 readers of the Standard. We have often pointed out, more particularly 
 
 22* 
 
2 5 8 
 
 POLITICO-RELIGIOUS ISSUES. 
 
 on the occasions of the great Democratic victories last autumn, that in the 
 United States public opinion has no ready means of acting upon the 
 Government ; that, on the contrary, a discredited Administration may 
 survive its popularity for years, and a party which has lost its hold upon the 
 people may, through the Senate and the Presidency, thwart the will of 
 the nation, and may lose power just when it is recovering favor. But we 
 are glad to be able to cite in our support the opinion of an educated and 
 travelled American. With true political insight Mr. White perceives 
 clearly that the existence of an aristocracy in no way militates against his 
 argument, and he has the courage to say so. And then he proceeds to 
 administer a lesson to our small clique of republican agitators, which their 
 importance certainly does not deserve, but which, nevertheless, as the un- 
 biased opinion of an observant American, has an interest quite apart from 
 the persons to whom it is immediately addressed. ' In the wider sense," 
 he writes, ' it appears to me that the republican agitators of England have 
 already got all and more than they can ever attain by copying after us.' 
 And having thus plainly intimated his contempt for the folly of these agi- 
 tators, Mr. White goes on to say, what all competent judges feel, that 
 universal suffrage has worked mischievously in the United States. ' That 
 it would have been better for us in America, especially in the large cities,' 
 • — is his outspoken expression — ' if some such test had been adopted and 
 adhered to, in place of universal suffrage, is the opinion of nearly all who 
 have either education or property." 
 
 Are we on the eve of a great religious controversy in the 
 United States and Europe ? Are the evil passions of Native 
 Americanism in 1844 and the paroxysmal excesses of Know 
 Nothingism in 1854 to be revived? In looking over the 
 field there would seem to be an obvious affirmative answer 
 to these questions, and yet perhaps a warning word in ad- 
 vance may save us from the calamities of another similar 
 excitement. With no desire, certainly, to provoke a result 
 that all must deplore, it may serve a historical purpose to 
 summarize the various symptoms of the times. 
 
 I. The Papal Nuncio in Madrid, in a remarkable circular 
 to the Spanish bishops, protests against the religious tolera- 
 tion granted under the proposed new Spanish constitution, 
 which it denounces as "a false principle in a nation emi- 
 nently Catholic." The following is the text of the offen- 
 sive article in the proposed constitution: 
 
POLITICO-RELIGIOUS ISSUES. 
 
 2 59 
 
 " No one can be molested on Spanish territory for his religious opinions, 
 nor for the exercise of his respective worship, unless necessary from the 
 respect due to Christian morality." 
 
 This passage is declared by the Nuncio to be "fraught 
 with disastrous consequences to the Spanish nation, which 
 from time immemorial has been in the possession of the 
 precious treasure of Catholic unity." 
 
 II. The formal denunciation of the Masonic order in 
 England and France, and the natural resistance of the or- 
 ganization, composing more than a million Freemasons, to 
 this ostracism. 
 
 III. The appointment of a list of six new Cardinals by 
 the Pope, five of them Italians and one a Frenchman, 
 which is characterized by the London Times as a practical 
 nomination of an Ultramontane successor by Pio Nono, 
 who, having recovered from "his brief dream of liberal- 
 ism," follows that by "a war against modern society in 
 the syllabus," and selects Italian cardinals solely because 
 of their sympathy with the obvious preparations of Jesuita 
 and other extreme Catholics. 
 
 IV. The increasing virulence of the contest between the 
 Roman Catholics and Protestants in Germany. 
 
 V. The manifest signs of bitter antagonism between the 
 Roman Catholics and the Low Church element of the 
 Church of England led by Mr. Gladstone. 
 
 But it is when we turn to the United States, or rather to 
 the North American Continent, without at all including the 
 too visible indications in South America, that we find rea- 
 son for the most gloomy forebodings: 
 
 First. The late scandalous riot at Montreal, on the second 
 of September, against the decision of the Judicial Commit- 
 tee of the British Privy Council, ordering the cemetery 
 authorities of Montreal to permit the ecclesiastical burial 
 of the body of Joseph Guibord, who died six years ago a 
 devout Roman Catholic, and whose remains were refused 
 
260 POLITICO-RELIGIOUS ISSUES. 
 
 interment because he was too liberal to please the Canadian 
 Ultramontanism. The facts of this frantic outburst, com- 
 posed of a mob of five hundred French Canadian roughs, 
 who prevented the burial of the dead body, are already 
 sufficiently familiar in America. 
 
 Second. The movement of the Roman Catholics of Ohio 
 in regard to the school question, vigorously denounced by 
 the Democratic leader, Senator Thurman, and leading 
 almost irresistibly to the defeat of the Democratic party 
 of that State in the October election. 
 
 Third. The excited discussion in New Jersey, produced 
 by the circular of the Roman Catholic bishop denouncing 
 several of the proposed amendments to the constitution of 
 New Jersey as hostile to the interests of the Church of Rome. 
 
 Fourth. The organization of an anti-Catholic party in 
 Maryland, a State containing a very large and influential 
 Roman Catholic population. 
 
 I have called these symptoms, and they might be multi- 
 plied by other references, but they are sufficient indications 
 of the temper of the public mind at the present moment. 
 Some prophets read these as sure forerunners of the over- 
 throw of the Roman Catholic Church, and insist that in 
 proportion as the Church advances in its exactions and 
 reiterates its extremest doctrines, it will only serve to in- 
 crease the antagonism of its adversaries; and thus society 
 will be arrayed in two hostile sections, one to defend what 
 are called the prerogatives of the Roman Catholics, and 
 the other to resist and put them down. Perhaps a religious 
 frenzy may completely obliterate all other issues in 1S76, 
 and those who have been looking for divisions in parties 
 on financial questions may be surprised by a revolution 
 arising from entirely different causes. In any case the 
 subject is certain to awaken intense agitation ; and in this 
 aspect it possesses extraordinary interest to the statesmen 
 and publicists of all nationalities. We may readily con- 
 
SLANG— AMERICAN AND ENGLISH. 2 6i 
 
 sole ourselves in the United States that whatever the revul- 
 sion with us may be, it cannot end in a conflict of arms. 
 We have a conservative element which opposed and sur- 
 vived the two religious excitements of 1844 and 1854, and 
 after all our best remedy is the ballot-box ; but this cannot 
 be said of Continental Europe, where there are already too 
 many other turbulent elements at work not to make of this 
 new demonstration a probable cause of speedy civil wars. 
 England, like the United States, possesses a strong barrier 
 against the encroachments of the Pope upon one side and 
 the evils of infidelity upon the other in a Church nomi- 
 nally national here, and almost equally so with us, which in 
 its conservatism affords full scope to form sentimentality 
 and tradition in religion, at the same time that it is the 
 bulwark of a determined Protestantism. 
 London, September, 1875. 
 
 LXIII. 
 
 Slang — American and English. 
 
 Every English writer, without exception, insists that an 
 American abroad is easily and instantly recognized by the 
 peculiar tones of his voice ; and even Anthony Trollope, 
 a very liberal man, does not hesitate, repeatedly in his last 
 novel, "The Way We Live Now," to complain of the 
 nasal twang of his transatlantic cousins. Let me admit at 
 the start that there is nothing more delightful than the 
 conversation of an educated Englishman or Englishwoman ; 
 but the moment you pass from their < irele you are assailed 
 at every quarter by a mingling of dialects, and in many 
 cases a most incomprehensible jargon. I often find it 
 
262 SLANG -AMERICAN AND ENGLISH. 
 
 difficult to understand an English clergyman, and it is the 
 common remark of Americans who visit the theatres that 
 they lose a large portion of the play in consequence of the 
 rapid and indistinct enunciation of actors in subordinate 
 parts. The same observation may be made with justice of 
 most of the speakers in the House of Commons. Take 
 out Mr. Disraeli, Mr. Gladstone, Mr. Bright, and a few 
 more, and it is next to impossible to comprehend what 
 nearly all the others say. 
 
 Whatever may be said of the Americans, whether they 
 come from the far North or from the far South, however 
 they may be distinguished by the characteristic idioms of 
 their vicinities, you can always understand them ; and this 
 cannot be said of a very large majority of the people of 
 England, particularly those who are popularly called the 
 laboring classes. The New Englanders are indeed easily 
 recognized. But where in our country have we had better 
 orators than the New England orators? Where has the 
 English language been better spoken than by Webster, 
 Everett, Sumner, Winthrop, and Charles Francis Adams ? 
 If you go to the South, who can ever forget the splendor 
 of the diction of Clay, Hilliard, Wise, Benjamin, William 
 C. Preston, and John C. Breckenridge and his illustrious 
 uncles? while of the Middle and Western States quite as 
 much may be said of their representative men. The most 
 popular orator in England is the man who approaches 
 nearest the American style, — John Bright. 
 
 A few days ago the London Standard, in a leader on the 
 negro riots at Clinton, Mississippi, said that the outbreak 
 was denominated, "in that peculiar slang which is fast 
 becoming the language of America, a ' big scare.' " Now, 
 let us consider for a moment whether what is called slang 
 is confined to the United States. You will be surprised to 
 learn that nearly all our catch-words are derived from Eng- 
 land, and those that are exclusively our own, though by no 
 
SLANG— AMERICAN AND ENGLISH. 
 
 263 
 
 means commended to imitation, are often productive of the 
 rarest humor, a forcible illustration of which is the popular- 
 ity of the writings of " Artemus Ward," "Orpheus C. Kerr," 
 " Mark Twain," Bret Harte, and their copyists in England. 
 Without slang, so to speak, none of these original humor- 
 ists would have an audience of any kind. The old Eng- 
 lish slang was coarse and vulgar. The word itself is of 
 Gypsy origin, yet it has been so universally adopted and 
 naturalized in Great Britain as now to pervade the entire 
 body of the best English conversation. " Beastly" and 
 "nasty" are constantly used even by elegant ladies in their 
 daily discourse. "Nasty" is employed to indicate ill-tem- 
 peredaxid cross-grained, while " beastly" is more familiarly 
 applied to bad weather. " Screwed" is the common ap- 
 pellation applied to an intoxicated person; and surely it 
 is a peculiar slang which transforms a sixpence into a " tan- 
 ner," a shilling into a "bob," and a half-crown into a 
 "bull." The word "awful" is made to perform many 
 parts in England. You hear on all sides of an "awful 
 fine woman," " I am awful sorry," " it was awfully grand ;"■ 
 and then follows "jolly," a word as commonly used here 
 as any other in the English language; as, for instance, 
 "awfully jolly;" "he is jolly;" "she is jolly." The 
 expression, "a bad egg," is not of American, but of Eng- 
 lish invention. " Banged up" also comes from this side of 
 the water. " Batter," to designate roystery or debauchery, 
 originates here. "Biddy," an Irish servant; "bilbo," 
 a Toledo sword ; " bilk," a cheat or swindler ; " billy." a 
 policeman's truncheon; "blinker," a black eye; "bloody," 
 an expletive used to intensify a phrase; "blow," to ex- 
 pose; "blowout," a feast; "blue devils," delirium tre- 
 mens; "bog-trotter," an Irishman; "bone," to steal; 
 "boozy," fuddled ; "bore," a troublesome friend ; "bosh," 
 nonsense; "bother," trouble; "bottle-holder," a prize- 
 ring term ; " bracelets," handcuffs ; " brags," impudence; 
 
264 SLANG— AMERICAN AND ENGLISH. 
 
 "break the ice," to make a commencement; "brick," 
 ajollygood fellow; " broadbrim," a Quaker ; "bruiser," 
 a righting man; "buffer," a good-humored old man; 
 "bully," a braggart; "cake," a flat. All these and a 
 thousand others that I could select, though much affected 
 in America, have come from England, and not a few of 
 them drawn from Shakspeare. 
 
 When you pass out of the educated circle and mingle with 
 the middle-class English the dropping and misapplication of 
 the " h" is almost without exception. Even among profes- 
 sional people I have noticed men and women saying " 'orse" 
 and " 'ouse," " hegg" and " hice ;" while as you descend 
 into the regions where reading and writing are almost un- 
 known you find yourself in the midst of an atmosphere, so 
 to speak, in which what is called the mother tongue is 
 utterly unintelligible. The distinctive manner and pro- 
 nunciation in Yorkshire and Lancashire are well known 
 through the medium of English novelists, and a capital 
 illustration of the varied dialects of the interior is given by 
 the lamented Hawthorne, who describes a conversation with 
 a Westmoreland peasant at an inn in Grasmere, "A very 
 civil, well-behaved, kindly sort of person, of a simple char- 
 acter, which I took to belong to the class and locality rather 
 than to himself individually. I could not very well under- 
 stand all that he said, owing to his provincial dialect, and 
 when he spoke to his own countrymen, or to the women of 
 the house, I really could but just catch a word here and 
 there." Lately, on a Saturday evening after paying a visit 
 at the Westminster Hotel, I turned a sharp corner and found 
 myself in the midst of a mass of people marketing for the 
 next week, and it seemed impossible that this countless 
 crowd should be within a stone's throw of the Houses of 
 Parliament and Westminster Abbey. A more dissolute, 
 wretched, debauched assemblage I never witnessed. It was 
 not English they spoke, but an indescribable and unpro- 
 
SLANG— AMERICAN AND ENGLISH. 265 
 
 nounceable babble. Yet these are people who glory in 
 speaking the tongue of Shakspeare and Milton ! 
 
 Our own slang is also used freely in England, and if you go 
 into one of their fashionable drinking-places you are amused 
 at the catalogue of American drinks printed for the delecta- 
 tion of Brother Jonathan and his English imitators. Here 
 are "eye-openers," "appetizers," "settlers," "digesters," 
 "smashes," "'cocktails," "cobblers," " breast -warmers," 
 "blizzards," etc. ; but in our dictionary of slang we have 
 nothing that calls champagne .phiz, or mixed ale and porter 
 * af-and- af. Even " loafer," supposed to belong to us, is an 
 improvement upon "loper," a very early English phrase, 
 and doubtless comes from "landlubber." "Lingo" (talk) 
 comes from the Italian. " Mare's nest," a supposed dis- 
 covery, is of cockney origin. The word "monkey" is 
 made to perform many parts. When an Englishman wants 
 to speak of another's ill-temper he says he has "got his 
 monkey up." A military "monkey" is the instrument 
 which drives a rocket ; a money "monkey" is five hundred 
 pounds ; a legal " monkey with a long tail" is a mortgage; 
 a sea " monkey" is a vessel that gives full allowance of grog 
 to the men ; a " monkey's allowance" is to give blows in- 
 stead of alms, — " more kicks than ha'pence." A "mot" 
 is a girl of bad character. A " mouchey" is a Jew. The 
 word "nail" also assumes many forms: " paid on the nail ;" 
 "nail," to take up; "dead as a door-nail;" as, for in- 
 stance, Dickens in his " Christmas Carol," when he speaks 
 of Old Marley, in one paragraph says three times that Old 
 Marley is as "dead as a door-nail." 
 
 You are astonished frequently in conversation with the 
 best-informed men to hear the word "rot" adopted in ex- 
 planation of anything bad, disagreeable, or useless; "Oh ! 
 that is rot!" "It is nothing but rot!" When an Eng- 
 lishman is fatigued he is "knocked up." Strong ale is 
 "knock me down;" "up to the knocker" means finely 
 m 2.1 
 
266 SLANG— AMERICAN AND ENGLISH. 
 
 or showily dressed; "knock-in" is the game of loo • 
 "knock-outs" are disreputable persons who visit auc- 
 tion-rooms and unite to purchase articles at their own 
 prices. "Levy," a very common word in many parts of 
 America before paper money, is a Liverpool slang phrase, 
 and here means a shilling, or a sum obtained before it is 
 due. " Rip" in England is a rake; an "old rip" a liber- 
 tine or debauchee, a corruption of reprobate, while in 
 America, according to the English derivation, it is cor- 
 rectly reported as "Let her rip; I am insured." "Shunt" 
 is the railroad slang to avoid or to turn aside from, and is 
 equivalent to our word "shift" when applied to cars. 
 "Skedaddle," heretofore supposed to be American, is de- 
 clared by a writer in The Times to be excellent Scotch. 
 The Americans only misapply the word, which means in 
 Dumfries to spill, milkmaids saying, for example, "You 
 are skedaddling all that milk." "Sky-blue" is the term 
 for London milk diluted with water. " Slick" is an Amer- 
 icanism, now very prevalent in England since the publica- 
 tion of Judge Haliburton's facetious stories. "Slavey," a 
 maid-servant; "smasher," one who passes bad coin; 
 "smoke," London. Country people when going to Lon- 
 don frequently say they are on their way to " the Smoke." 
 "Snob," a low, vulgar, or affected person; "cad," ap- 
 plied to the objectionable class immortalized by Thackeray 
 under the title "snob." "Sov." is very much used as a 
 contraction for sovereign, the gold coin of England. 
 "Spoon" is defined to be a thing that touches a lady's 
 lips without kissing them ; and "spoony," as to be spoony 
 on a girl, meaning excessively fond of her. To "squeak" 
 on a person is to inform against him. A " tabby" part}' is 
 a party consisting entirely of women ; but a "stag" party, 
 referring to a gathering composed exclusively of men, seems 
 to belong to our country alone. A " welcher" is a person 
 who makes a bet, never intending to pay it, and is very 
 
WEALTH OF LONDON. 
 
 267 
 
 much used on the turf, where a " welcher" is often severely 
 handled when his swindling is discovered. "Whistle," 
 supposed heretofore to be an Americanism, as " wet your 
 whistle," is now found to be from Chaucer's " Canterbury 
 Tales;" and the readers of " Pickwick" will remember how 
 Sam Weller and Mr. Jingle's amiable attendant went into 
 a private place in the Fleet Prison, called a "whistling- 
 shop," and had a drink on the sly. 
 
 These examples, which I might multiply indefinitely, are 
 sufficient to show that, if we have our slang phrases in 
 America, we cannot approach those embodied in the lan- 
 guage of England, and that even what we use are in the 
 main either borrowed from the mother country, or, when 
 original with us, are rather suggestive of good humor than 
 of profanity or vulgarity. 
 
 London, September, 1875. 
 
 LXIV. 
 Wealth of London. — The Hebrew Race. 
 
 More than once I have directed attention to the enor- 
 mous wealth of London, represented in its accumulated 
 capital, public and private. The frequent wills and bequests 
 printed in the newspapers show not only the extent of this 
 wealth, but also the manner of its distribution, and in this 
 respect the example cannot be too strongly recommended 
 to opulent people in the United States. I have now before 
 me a notice of the will of the Rev. Henry Charles Morgan, 
 dated May 27, 1S73, his personal estate being sworn at 
 about two hundred thousand pounds, or one million of 
 our money. He bequeathes one thousand pounds each 
 to nineteen hospitals and benevolent institutions, and five 
 
268 THE HEBREW RACE. 
 
 hundred pounds to five other charitable organizations. 
 Then comes the will of Mr. Thomas Bliss Pugh, his estate 
 about eighty thousand pounds, or four hundred thousand 
 dollars. He gives three thousand pounds to the Royal Sea- 
 bathing Infirmary and three hundred pounds each to three 
 other public charities. Next we have the will of Mr. John 
 Springs Morse Churchill, his estate worth sixty thousand 
 pounds, or three hundred thousand dollars; a large portion 
 of his fortune is given to various hospitals and churches. 
 
 The Hebrew population of London is very large and 
 influential, and their wealth, represented as they are by 
 the Rothschilds and other great houses, is simply enormous. 
 They have only a limited representation in Parliament. 
 Baron Lionel Nathan de Rothschild was elected a Liberal 
 member from the city of London in August, 1847, ar *d 
 though again returned in June, 1849, in July, 1852, and 
 in March, 1857, was not, owing to the exclusion of Jews 
 from the House of Commons, permitted to take his seat 
 and give his vote until 1858, Avhen that odious order was 
 set aside by a resolution in favor of himself and his co- 
 religionists. He lost his seat at the general election in 
 February, 1874. One of his name and family represents 
 the borough of Aylesbury ; two of the Goldsmids, also of 
 Hebrew lineage, respectively sit for Reading and Rochester, 
 and Mr. Serjeant Simon, a barrister in good practice, is 
 M.P. for Dewsbury. There are several Hebrew baronets, 
 — all created, I believe, in the reign of Queen Victoria. 
 Sir George Jessel, Master of the Rolls, is a Hebrew. Mr. 
 Disraeli, though a baptized member of the Established 
 Church of England, has never denied his Hebrew ances- 
 try, nor has he attempted to conceal his Hebrew predi- 
 lections. 
 
 The residences of the wealthy Jews in London and 
 throughout the Continent may be truthfully termed palatial. 
 
 Knowing the interest which this important and exem- 
 
THE HEBREW RACE. 269 
 
 plary class takes in our Centennial, I must mention an in- 
 teresting incident which lately occurred at the Great Syna- 
 gogue, Duke's Place, Aldgate, it being a special thanks- 
 giving for the safe return to England of Sir Mo-es Monte- 
 fiore : "As is tolerably well known, about three months 
 ago Sir Moses Montefiore left London for Jerusalem, in 
 order to make a thorough investigation of the condition 
 of the Jews of Jerusalem, and to examine into the charge 
 of laziness and incapacity for work which has been 
 brought against them. .The greatest interest was, of course, 
 felt in the visit of Sir Moses Montefiore by the Jews of 
 London, who collected in the Great Synagogue in large 
 numbers on Saturday afternoon. This handsome house of 
 worship was densly crowded, and many hundreds were 
 unable to obtain admission. Sir Moses on being called 
 to the ' Reading of the Law,' presented several large sums 
 of money to the synagogue. During the service a special 
 prayer was recited in Hebrew by the Rev. the Chief Rabbi, 
 Dr. Adler. The choristers excellently rendered some 
 selected hymns, in which the congregation joined. It was 
 with the greatest difficulty that the venerable Baronet was 
 able to make his way out of the synagogue, hundreds of 
 the congregants pressing forward to shake hands with him 
 — a wish with which Sir Moses heartily complied. In Duke 
 Street the scene was even of a more enthusiastic character. 
 Sir Moses Montefiore was received by a dense crowd with 
 tremendous cheers, and it required great exertion to reach 
 the house in Bevis Marks at which he was staying. There 
 he was compelled to address the crowd from the window. 
 Sir Moses, despite his great age (he will be ninety-two 
 years old in October, 1876), appeared in excellent health." 
 He had attended a similar ceremony in the Spanish and 
 Portuguese Synagogue, Bevis Marks, on the morning of the 
 day on which I saw him. 
 London, September, 1875. 
 
 23* 
 
270 THE SEASON AT THE SEA-SHORE. 
 
 LXV. 
 
 The Season at the Sea-Shore. 
 
 This is that period of the year in London when every- 
 body is " out of town," yet the great hive seems to be as 
 full of busy bees as ever. It is only as you pass along the 
 castellated rows of Belgravia, Grosvenor Square, Caven- 
 dish Square, and Portland Place, and notice how hermeti- 
 cally they are closed, save to the active operations of 
 carpenters and/nasons, who are putting them in repair for 
 the return of the occupants, that you realize what is meant 
 by this remark. Perhaps as you saunter past the flower- 
 covered borders of Hyde Park and note the absence of the 
 thousands of costly equipages and gay horsemen and horse- 
 women you have another realization of the absence of those 
 who supply so much of the means which maintain the trade 
 of the middle classes. It must also be said that the city, 
 the money-centre, is dull and spiritless; but the still vast 
 volume of population rolls along the Strand and Fleet 
 Street incessantly during the day, and pours through the 
 narrow alleys at night, while on Sunday, especially between 
 six and twelve p.m., the great highway of Regent Street is 
 literally thronged with people taking evening walks or 
 crowding in from the public squares. 
 
 The fashionable element is absent at the country-houses 
 and along the seaside. I have more than once stated that 
 just as the Americans are coming home from the ocean, just 
 as they are settling back into their city residences, the exo- 
 dus of the wealthy and higher classes in Europe begins; 
 they leave the city for the country and the seaside, and re- 
 main there sometimes into the winter. A friend of mine 
 
THE SEASON AT THE SEA- SHORE. 
 
 271 
 
 who lives near London, in one of the most delightful subur- 
 ban houses, has just left for Folkestone, where he will take 
 up his quarters until January in a residence built so that he 
 can enjoy the ocean ; while Brighton, Scarborough, New- 
 haven, Margate, Southampton, Portsmouth, and all the 
 Channel Islands, of course including the Isle of Wight, 
 are literally crowded with the wealthy classes. The same 
 is true of the French seaside resorts, notably Dieppe, Biar- 
 ritz, Boulogne, Havre, Trouville, and Deanville. It is too 
 early to visit Nice and more Southern France. A friend 
 writing from Nice on the 19th of September speaks of the 
 excessive heat of that famous winter metropolis; but it is 
 when you get near the places I have just named that you 
 understand exactly what foreign life is during October, 
 November, and December on the ocean -side. 
 
 Five hours by express from Paris lands you at Havre, the 
 second commercial city in France. The famous Hotel 
 Frascati, directly facing the beach, is now swarming with 
 guests, who come from afar to enjoy the ocean. They are 
 of all nations, the French predominating; and it is amus- 
 ing to see them in the full tide of their midday repast. 
 Breakfast (the real dejeuner) is the great French noon 
 meal. A cup .of coffee and a rusk only directly after ris- 
 ing, then to work till between twelve and two, when all 
 classes report themselves at breakfast — the fashionable hour 
 for dinner being seven in the evening. Frascati's rooms, 
 alcoves, and balconies are quite full. There is a fair pro- 
 portion of English and Americans, with a k\v Germans, 
 the latter having almost entirely deserted France since the 
 war, with the bitter memories which make business and 
 pleasure in a French town difficult, and almost impossible, 
 to a German. The Germans are far more generous to the 
 French in Germany; perhaps because magnanimity is the 
 attribute of conquest. 
 
 The bathing hour is eleven at Havre and othei French 
 
272 
 
 THE SEASON AT THE SEA-SHORE. 
 
 seaside resorts, and it is a novel sight to eyes accustomed 
 to the scenes of an American seaside. The men are en- 
 tirely nude, save a slight girdle round their middle. The 
 women are dressed in varied suits. The former move out 
 along the piers and throw themselves into the water like 
 circus-riders. The latter are carried out in boats, from 
 which they descend by small ladders at the side into the 
 water, alternately swimming around the boat and get- 
 ting into it to rest from their exercise. At no one 
 time were there more than a hundred people bathing at 
 the same time, though the sterile, sunny, sandy shore was 
 filled with spectators ; nor was the surf half so fine or 
 the beach as smooth as at Atlantic City and Cape May. 
 And how different from the gay and laughing thousands 
 who go in to bathe at these and other favorite summer 
 places ! Such a thing as men two-thirds naked would not 
 be tolerated there ; but here custom has so familiarized it 
 to society that it is not noticed. Frascati's Hotel is also 
 most unlike our hotels by the sea — the cooking is all French, 
 and there is a wonderful avoidance of strong liquors ; 
 music twice a day for the guests ; but no crowd, as with 
 us; no late hours, no brilliant balls, no children's dances. 
 At ten o'clock all is dark and solitary. Of the food and 
 attendance I cannot speak too highly. The cuisine of the 
 French is confessedly unapproachable, and their exquisite 
 bread, butter, and coffee are not less worthy of imitation 
 than their skill in composing a soup or an omelet. This is 
 a grave subject for next year, especially that of bread. 
 Cheap, sweet, delicate bread is a luxury which supplies 
 many deficiencies. 
 
 Havre is in the vicinity of some of the finest watering- 
 places on the French coast — notably Trouville and Dean- 
 ville, distant by steamer about an hour. Again, how dif- 
 ferent the people on the boat and the people on the shore, 
 compared to a similar excursion in America ! Nothing 
 
THE CIVIL SERVICE SUPPLY ASSOCIATION. 273 
 
 could be more decorous than a French crowd, whether 
 afloat or on land. They are painfully quiet, perhaps be- 
 cause of the restraints of their military situation. With us 
 an ocean excursion is an event of brass bands, gay dresses, 
 and innocent fraternization. Trouville is to the French 
 what Long Branch is to the Americans or Brighton to the 
 English, but different from both in most respects. Dean- 
 ville, its immediate neighbor and rival, possesses the same 
 characteristics, and what I have written about Havre may 
 be applied with equal justice to those two places. M. 
 Thiers lived for many years near Trouville, and is very 
 much beloved in all the country round about. 
 London, September, 1875. 
 
 LXVI. 
 
 The Civil Service Supply Association. 
 
 It is admitted that Americans surpass the English in 
 their hotels and boarding-houses. There are no such in- 
 stitutions as our first-class hotels anywhere in the United 
 Kingdom, while those who select quarters and depend for 
 their conveniences in private houses cannot be accom- 
 modated as comfortably as they can in the United States. 
 There are many luxurious private hotels in this vast world 
 of a city where the conveniences are too costly for the 
 ordinary traveler; but the average superiority of our 
 American public houses seems to be everywhere conceded. 
 It is different, however, when you meet the Englishman at 
 home. There he is fully equal to the American ; and it is 
 in this association that you can better appreciate English 
 life. Their comforts are abounding, and the taste with 
 
 M* 
 
274 TIIE CIVIL SERVICE SUPPLY ASSOCIATION. 
 
 which their residences are furnished cannot be surpassed. 
 Lately I met a very interesting family, whose acquaintance 
 I made last winter at Cannes, in France, where their quiet 
 style and unostentatious manners hardly prepared me to 
 find them living as luxuriously as they do in their pleasant 
 mansion in Cambridge Street, Hyde Park. 
 
 It is not, however, to speak of the manner in which they 
 entertained me, of the elegancies and comforts of their 
 residence, the excellence of the dinner, the intelligence 
 of their conversation, the heartiness of their cordiality, and 
 especially their sympathy for my country; another topic far 
 more interesting, if possible, suggested this letter; and that 
 is the fact that the appointments of this beautiful house, the 
 clothes worn by its occupants, the furniture, the service of 
 the table, and the delicacies of the dinner, all came 
 through what is known in London as the Civil Service 
 Supply Association. 
 
 This institution, little heard of in the United States, is 
 one of the peculiarities of the British capital, though rather 
 recently established. The object is to supply families with 
 articles for consumption and general use at the lowest 
 possible prices. It originated in a combination among 
 persons holding subordinate positions under the Govern- 
 ment, municipal and national; hence the title. With their 
 comparatively small salaries, and their anxiety to live re- 
 spectably, they found it impossible to pay the high charges 
 for the various necessaries of life, so they adopted a co- 
 operative system, a little like that attempted by the granges 
 of the Patrons of Husbandry in some parts of America, or, 
 in other words, something like the old-fashioned plan of 
 orders adopted in many of the manufacturing towns in our 
 own country, the difference here being that cash must be 
 paid for everything on the spot. The institution I am now 
 trying to describe issues forty-five hundred shares to its 
 members, each of whom pays five pounds or twenty-five 
 
THE CIVIL SERVICE SUPPLY ASSOCIATION. 
 
 275 
 
 dollars per annum, which, besides securing the benefit of 
 the society, entitles the holder to take part in the meetings 
 of the association and to have a voice in the management. 
 Tickets may be sold to others on the payment of half a 
 crown (sixty-two and a half cents), which tickets secure the 
 right of purchasing goods at the stores and from the firms 
 connected with the Association, but the mere ticket-pur- 
 chasers cannot attend the meetings or take part in the 
 management. Tickets may also be obtained by the widows 
 of civil servants upon the payment of half a crown yearly, 
 and by the widows of members without payment. When 
 you are told that this organization consists of hundreds of 
 thousands of persons, and that the supplies are furnished by 
 thousands of establishments, and that no such thing as a 
 pecuniary loss has ever happened, or anything like dis- 
 honesty in any one of the branches, you may realize how 
 successful it has been. This fact is more apparent as you 
 examine the prices paid by those who enjoy the benefits of 
 the system. In looking over the list of articles furnished 
 I perceive that it includes literally everything — groceries, 
 wines and spirits, provisions, tobacco and cigars, hosiery, 
 drapery, gents' and ladies' clothing, fancy goods, drugs, 
 plate, furs, stationery and jewelry, books and music, house- 
 hold furniture ; in fact, luxuries as well as necessaries. 
 
 The price-list for the quarter ending the 31st of August, 
 1875, shows a reduction of from five to twenty-five percent, 
 on the prevailing rates. Understand that when the mem- 
 bers or ticket-holders begin to make their purchases they 
 first leave the list of the articles required and the money with 
 the cashier. In the printed catalogue before me I notice 
 men's best shirts at five shillings sixpence ($1-37/^); col- 
 lars to match, sixpence ; dressing-gowns, seventeen shillings 
 sixpence ($4.37^) ; imitation seal-skin wrappers at about 
 $ 1.75 ; water-proof gray tweed coals at $5 ; woollen shawls 
 at $2.37)4 ; cambric handkerchiefs from 87*2 cents to 
 
276 THE CIVIL SERVICE SUPPLY ASSOCIATION. 
 
 $5.50 per dozen ; hemstitched, from $2 to $9.50 per dozen ; 
 merino dresses for ladies at $2.50 to $5 ; ladies' lavender 
 dress kid gloves from 62^ cents to 75 cents ; men's kid 
 gloves, $1 a pair ; silk umbrellas, $1.50 to $1.75 apiece; 
 sunshades, 87^ cents ; French merino, 50 cents to $1.12*^ 
 per yard ; woolen reps, 50 cents to $1 a yard ; black silks, 
 75 cents to $1.25 a yard; French satin, 40 cents to 62^ 
 cents per yard; printed cambrics, I2j4 cents to 22 cents 
 per yard ; printed muslin, i2j4 cents to 30 cents per yard; 
 unbleached cotton, 18 cents to 20 cents per yard ; bleached 
 cotton sheetings, 30 cents to 45 cents per yard ; calicoes, 
 from 10 cents to 22 cents per yard ; linen sheetings, from 
 25 cents to 75 cents per yard ; Scotch linen, from 50 cents 
 to $1 per yard; Irish linen, from 75 cents to #1.75 per 
 yard; double linen napkins, $1.12*4 to $3.75; damask 
 cloths, 12 j4 cents to 68 cents; blankets, per pair, from 
 $2.50 to $3; better qualities (Whitney), $7.75 per pair; 
 an extra superfine black frock or dress coat, lined through- 
 out with Italian cloth, $17.37^2 ', an extra superfine black 
 morning coat, lined throughout with Italian cloth, $15.62^; 
 superfine black frock or dress coat, $15.62^; morning coat, 
 superior, $13.87)4 ; superfine black waistcoat, single- 
 breasted, $3.50; double-breasted waistcoat, superfine, 
 $3.75; doeskin trowsers, $6.62 ^ ; and ready-made over- 
 coats, various sizes, textures, and colors, $5.25. 
 
 These reductions run through the entire catalogue ; and 
 when you reflect that this organization is not patronized 
 by the poorer classes only, but is really, as in the case of 
 the family to which I refer, supported by persons in very 
 good circumstances, and includes, as I learn, many of the 
 nobility, you will see at once not only how useful it is, but 
 to what extent integrity is essential to its management. At 
 first there was a decided protest against it among old estab- 
 lishments, but now it has become so powerful that it in- 
 cludes thousands of Co-operative Stores, and of course com- 
 
NATIONAL EDUCATION 277 
 
 pels by the very nature of its competition reasonable prices 
 among those who are not connected with it. During the 
 Christmas holidays some of these civil-service stores re- 
 ceived over their counters as much as two hundred thousand 
 dollars in a single day, and it is a noteworthy fact, as illus- 
 trated, for instance, by Mr. Forster, M.P., in a recent speech 
 on the Odd-Fellows, which is in England a kind of mutual 
 relief organization, that the co-operative system as applied 
 to working people has been a triumphant success. 
 London, September, 1875. 
 
 LXVII. 
 
 National Education. 
 
 We must not forget, while American institutions are 
 constantly under fire in Europe, or rather are constantly 
 criticised and too often condemned for various reasons, 
 sometimes out of sheer dislike, sometimes because of the 
 apprehensions they excite, and not unfrequently for want 
 of full knowledge of the facts, there are nevertheless cer- 
 tain conservative or saving elements in our system which 
 cannot be ignored. 
 
 I have already referred to the substantial value of re- 
 ligious toleration in America, to the steady reduction of 
 our national debt, and to the increasing solidity of our 
 national securities ; but now comes a still greater question 
 if possible — that of the admitted superiority of popular 
 education in the United States. At last the necessity for a 
 wider and more thorough intelligence among the English 
 people is forced upon the attention of the Conservative 
 leaders. A nation so full of money, abounding in so many 
 
 24 
 
278 NATIONAL EDUCATION. 
 
 learned institutions, placed by all its associations at the 
 very head of modern literature, knitted to the past by a long 
 train of glorious traditions, is to day far behind other 
 powers in the great matter of the education of its people. 
 That nation is England, and in this assertion I need go no 
 further for support than the utterances of its public men. 
 Switzerland, Germany, Belgium, and France are far ahead 
 of England in this respect ; but no example is more fre- 
 quently and profitably quoted than that of the United 
 States. 
 
 During the late session of Parliament a measure was 
 adopted called the Elementary Education Act, the object 
 of which was to secure the attendance of children in the 
 schools, a higher standard of acquirements in teachers, and 
 better school-books, all to be supported from the common 
 fund raised by taxes or rates upon the people. And it 
 marks the difference between the present and the past that 
 Mr. Cross, the Home Secretary of Mr. Disraeli's adminis- 
 tration, at the opening of a bazaar at Orrell, near Wigan, 
 the other day, unqualifiedly asserted his determination to 
 execute this law at whatever hazard, and in illustration of 
 his resolute purpose he proclaimed sentiments which a few 
 years ago would have been denounced as the wildest radi- 
 calism. He regards the absence of such a system as he 
 now demands as the great danger of the times, and believes, 
 to use the language of the Daily Standard, " if England is 
 to retain her place among the nations and hold her own 
 against foreign competition in manufactures and industry 
 generally, we must in every way we can, and by a better 
 literary education among other ways, draw out and develop 
 the talents and capacities of the whole of the people." 
 In the same article the following allusion is made to the 
 United States: 
 
 " Lastly, the spread of sanitary knowledge will necessitate improved, 
 and therefore more costly, school-houses. On the need - of this special im- 
 
NATIONAL EDUCATION. 
 
 279 
 
 provement the official literature of some of the New England States — 
 more particularly Massachusetts — is very instructive. The common-school 
 S) stem is an ancient institution in New England, and it embraces a very 
 large proportion of the population. The State Board of Health of Mas- 
 sachusetts has consequently made the influence of school attendance upon 
 the health of the pupils the subject of some very valuable reports. Now, 
 as the whole youth of this country is gathered into the schools, this ques- 
 tion of the sanitary condition of the schools will become of at least as 
 much importance as that of the sanitary condition of factories and work- 
 shops. For these reasons and others that might be enumerated the cost 
 of elementary education will tend to increase in the future. But this ques- 
 tion of cost appears to us of very minor importance. When popular edu- 
 cation was neglected by Government and had no advocates among poli- 
 ticians it was originated by voluntary effort, and was maintained, extended, 
 and improved until at last it compelled the attention of Cabinets and Par- 
 liaments, and forced itself into the front as a great national question. The 
 same spirit of enlightened self-sacrifice and patriotic enterprise which ac- 
 complished so much will continue the work, and will furnish whatever 
 funds may be necessary to support voluntary schools." 
 
 It illustrates the march of liberal principles in England, 
 and at the same time the vigilance of the Conservative Min- 
 istry not to be outdone by their political adversaries, that 
 the Home Secretary should unhesitatingly declare his de- 
 termination to establish in England as thorough and com- 
 plete and generous a system of popular education as there 
 is to be found in any part of the world ; and strange to say 
 the youngest of all the nations, our own, has unquestionably 
 surmounted most of the difficulties now in the path of Great 
 Britain. Our common schools are everywhere in full tide of 
 successful experiment. In other words, England must now 
 begin, with all her experience and wealth, where the United 
 States began forty years ago. England now finds its best 
 security in the education of its masses, and so refutes by the 
 act of its Conservative Ministry the violent denunciations 
 of those who insisted that to educate a great people was to 
 make them unworthy of liberty and disdainful of labor. 
 As time goes on, this subject, as presented in the United 
 States, will get to be more and more interesting in England, 
 
2 So NATIONAL EDUCATION. 
 
 and the money expended directly by the several States and 
 indirectly by the General Government for the purpose of 
 educating all classes and conditions of men will be made 
 so familiar in Great Britain that no man can forecast the 
 future. Our example alone will go far to dispel many pre- 
 judices which have grown out of our more recent and tem- 
 porary misfortunes. 
 
 I observed the effect produced upon the mind of Lord 
 and Lady Amberley when they were in Philadelphia sev- 
 eral years ago, on the occasion of their visit to one of 
 the Girls' High Schools. Lady Amberley was introduced 
 without previous notice to four or five hundred young ladies 
 from fourteen to eighteen years old, and found them fully 
 prepared to answer all her questions, and she found these 
 young women so far ahead of her expectations in the higher 
 accomplishments, that she did not hesitate to say that much 
 as she had seen of the world, — for she had been a great 
 traveller, — she had never before enjoyed a sight at once so 
 novel and so instructive, and she was free to admit that, 
 proud as she was of her own country, there was not in 
 England such an institution for the education of the girls 
 of all classes as that which she had seen in Philadelphia. 
 
 That the present Ministry intends a revolution in educa- 
 tion in this country is clear, and that they will not allow 
 their Liberal rivals to surpass them in the march of improve- 
 ment is evident from the resolute tone of the speech of the 
 Home Secretary a few days ago. It will cost much to 
 create and conduct such a system as that of the United 
 States in this old country, and it will be not only neces- 
 sary to enforce the attendance of the children of all classes, 
 but to compel the rich to pay the expense, in proportion 
 as they are better able to bear the burdens of the State. It 
 was the education tax that came near destroying the Amer- 
 ican system in Pennsylvania when Thaddeus Stevens led 
 the way as the champion of popular education, and I no- 
 
NATIONAL EDUCATION. 281 
 
 tice here that people of wealth already protest against 
 being called upon to educate the children of the poor. But 
 precisely as in the United States all these objections perished' 
 before the salutary experience of a well-conducted educa- 
 tion for the people, so will they fade away before the in- 
 tended experiment in England. What will grow out of 
 this revolution is quite another subject; but you can better 
 understand how ready the Conservative statesmen here are 
 to meet all the difficulties of the far-off future when the 
 Home Secretary uses the following language: 
 
 " Whatever may be our differences in political questions, whatever dif- 
 ferent views we may hold upon religious matters, whether they be far apart 
 or not, at all events to-day there is one purpose in every person's heart 
 assembled in this room, and that is a feeling of the necessity of education. 
 It is always a matter of delight to me to see a whole village meeting as 
 here to-day, and that you are all agreed. Now, let us examine for one 
 moment what you are agreed upon, because I take it that the object is a 
 very important one. You are agreed upon this — that at all events within 
 this district the education provided for every child, male or female, within 
 it, shall, so far as you are concerned, not be separated from religious 
 teaching ; that you will not attempt to force your own particular religious 
 views upon any child who comes to this school whose parents do not agree 
 with those views ; that the teaching which is given here shall be of the best 
 and highest standard ; and that you are willing to have your standard of 
 excellence in teaching tested by a Government test. 
 
 " You do not allow a parent to let his children go into the streets with- 
 out clothes for the sake of decency. You will not allow a parent let his 
 children, if he can afford it, go into the street without food for the sake of 
 humanity ; and what right has a man to let his children go into the streets 
 without education, and become a prey to all the criminals who are about 
 him — to lead a life of crime, of misery to himself, of distress and wrong to 
 others, of enormous expense to the country, for he is sure to become a 
 criminal ? You cannot in any reason suppose that a man who has the 
 power of sending his child to school has a right to neglect to teach him 
 any more than he has to feed or clothe him. If he does not do it, he must 
 be made to do it, and the question you have to solve is whether, without 
 assistance from the State, you can succeed in getting your children to 
 school, for at school they must be; and the State has a right to take care 
 that it is not flooded with persons who are living a life of crime and misery 
 to all around them. Do not run away with the notion that simple educa- 
 
 24* 
 
282 CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL AT WESTMINSTER. 
 
 tion alone will do everything, or that improving your dwellings will do 
 everything. You are required to undo that which has been done for years 
 past, and it is only by gradual improvement that we can hope to reach a 
 better state of things than we have at the present moment ; and I believe 
 as surely as I stand here that that improvement is gradually going on more 
 extensively than many of us think, and that if all goes on prosperously, as 
 we hope it will do, we may trust in the next generation to find a very dif- 
 ferent state of things to that which some of the older of us remember to 
 have existed when we were children." 
 London, September, 1875. 
 
 LXVIII. 
 
 Catholic Cathedral at Westminster. 
 
 The Roman Catholics of England are preparing to begin, 
 under the auspices of Cardinal Manning, the erection of a 
 cathedral that shall be worthy of their metropolitan see. It 
 is to be placed in what is called the Archdiocese of West- 
 minster, in the rear of Victoria Street, near the Parliament 
 House and the ancient Minster. The ground, bought by the 
 accumulation of some nine years, cost one hundred and sixty- 
 five thousand dollars, and the vastness of the work may be ap- 
 preciated when it is stated that Cardinal Manning does not 
 expect to live to consecrate it, for if finished in his lifetime it 
 would not be a metropolitan edifice worthy of the Church. 
 The architect has chosen as his model the latter half of the 
 thirteenth century, when Gothic art had culminated. The 
 great western facade of the new Cathedral will not be less 
 than one hundred and seventy feet in width, flanked with 
 two towers each fifty feet square. The front will be one 
 hundred and thirty feet and the towers two hundred feet 
 high, to be finally surmounted by spires, making the full 
 altitude nearly four hundred feet, almost that of the cross 
 
CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL AT WESTMINSTER. 283 
 
 of St. Paul's. On entering, the visitor will find himself in 
 a spacious nave fifty feet in breadth, separated by a set of 
 double aisles, on his right and left an arcade of seventy 
 lofty solid arches, each bay or arch twenty-two feet wide 
 and sixty feet in height. Then there are to be aisles, stained 
 windows, transepts, etc. The exact dimensions of the 
 building will be four hundred feet long, one hundred and 
 forty feet wide, one hundred and thirty feet high. There 
 will be twenty-five side chapels, each with a separate altar. 
 The entire fabric is to be built of Portland stone, and the 
 whole of the interior vaulted with the same material. It 
 is estimated that two generations will elapse before it is 
 finished. The cost of the first instalment is estimated at 
 four hundred thousand dollars. Subscriptions have already 
 been received from the Emperor and Empress of Austria, 
 ex-Queen Isabella of Spain, the late Count de Montalem- 
 bert, and most of the Roman Catholic nobility and gentry 
 of this country. Cardinal Manning heads the subscription 
 with a donation of one thousand pounds sterling and a be- 
 quest of five thousand more, which has been placed at his 
 disposal. There are also donations from Mr. Charles Man- 
 ning, six hundred pounds sterling ; the Countess Tasker, 
 one thousand ; Monsignor Patterson, eight hundred, and 
 the late Mr. J. R. Hope Scott, Q.C., five hundred. The 
 London Times, in reporting this project, speaks of it as "a 
 strange demonstration ;" but this, together with other indi- 
 cations, proves the steady growth of the Roman Catholics 
 in England. 
 
 London, September, 1875. 
 
284 CHIPPING NORTON. 
 
 LXIX. 
 
 Chipping Norton. — A Master of the Hounds. — An Ancient Manufactory. 
 
 Chipping Norton is the old and odd name of a beautiful 
 rural town in Oxfordshire, of which I had never heard until 
 invited to visit it by an English friend ; a place, in fact, of 
 which many of the oldest inhabitants of London know 
 nothing. My host, William Bliss, Esq., who has connec- 
 tions in the United States, and some of whose relations 
 are resident in Philadelphia, having intermarried with one 
 of our oldest families — the Dalletts — had visited our coun- 
 try three years ago, and though he remained but four months 
 among us, he imbibed such an admiration for nearly every- 
 thing he saw, that it is to him a genuine pleasure to wel- 
 come Americans to his hospitable home. The town of 
 Chipping Norton was in existence eight hundred years 
 ago, and it looks likes an ancient place, with its quaint old 
 houses, its broad square, narrow streets, and numerous tav- 
 erns, one of them the "White Hart," the favorite resort 
 of King George IV. when he lived a very gay and roving 
 life as Prince of Wales. Distant three hours from London 
 and about an hour from venerable Oxford, its own imme- 
 diate surroundings are hardly less interesting than that 
 centuried city of colleges and churches. 
 
 Inconceivably lovely are the hills among which Chip- 
 ping Norton stands, and on a day of rare autumnal mag- 
 nificence, recalling our Indian summer in all its glory, it 
 was an interesting ride with Mr. Bliss through the town 
 itself and its romantic and historic environs. The name 
 of Chipping is derived from the Saxon " Chepen," to 
 cheapen or to buy. It signifies a market-place. Time, 
 
CHIPPING NORTON. 285 
 
 however, has changed it into "Chipping," and if you 
 trace the old records even to the reign of Edward I., 1293, 
 mention is made of the " Churche of Cheping Norton." 
 Immediately after the Norman Conquest the manor of 
 Chipping Norton became the property of one of the great 
 families, and, after passing through various hands, became 
 a town corporate in 1673, and is now, although part of a 
 district which sends several members to Parliament, a 
 " borough" that never makes the acquaintance of a Speak- 
 er's "writ," and is never corrupted by a contested elec- 
 tion. 
 
 When I reached the railroad station on the Great Western 
 line, I found Mr. and Mrs. Bliss Waiting to drive me across 
 the country to their residence. Nearly the entire distance 
 between these two points was through the estate of Lord 
 Ducie, which extends seven miles along the railway, and 
 nearly as many on both sides. This vast estate is farmed 
 on the closest and best English system, producing a large 
 annual revenue to the noble owner, many of whose tenants 
 are themselves men of high position, some of the farms in- 
 cluding more than a thousand acres. Within three miles 
 of Chipping Norton is a still more extensive estate, "Hey- 
 throp," four thousand five hundred acres in extent, formerly 
 the property of the Earl of Shrewsbury, but now in possession 
 of a new owner, Albert Brassey, the youngest son of the great 
 English contractor — the late Thomas Brassey. Two other 
 sons of Mr. Brassey — the first and second — are members 
 of Parliament, and all received at the death of their father 
 sufficient to give them property popularly estimated at 
 eighty thousand pounds sterling per annum, which they 
 spend with an enlightened liberality. It is said of this 
 celebrated builder that, although passing through many 
 trials and vicissitudes, he expended'in his various enter- 
 prises in England and on the Continent at least seventy 
 millions of pounds sterling, or three hundred and fifty mil- 
 
286 A MASTER OF THE HOUNDS. 
 
 lions of dollars ! A comparatively illiterate man himself, 
 but with fine natural capacities, especially in the manage- 
 ment of men and in the selection of his agents, his maxim is 
 said to have been that an ignorant man could only spend 
 five thousand pounds per annum, while it required educa- 
 tion and a knowledge of the world to distribute the large 
 profits which he was realizing for his children. So he gave 
 them the best education that_could be procured, and now 
 they are men of position and high standing. Heythrop is 
 certainly magnificent, and- it is evident that the new pro- 
 prietor is making good use of the enormous wealth he has 
 inherited. 
 
 As we drove through the splendid park, passing a noble 
 avenue of beeches, and saw the various improvements in 
 progress — the neat little village for the accommodation of 
 the tenants ; the new school-house, with its handsome gar- 
 dens, walks, and play-grounds ; the village church ; the 
 long range of stables for the large stud of the young 
 owner ; the old chapels erected by the Shrewsburys in 
 Catholic times, but now dismantled under the new regime ; 
 the hundreds of workmen engaged upon the main castle, 
 now in course of thorough renovation — it was easy to see 
 that the money which had been accumulated by the skill 
 and energy of the father was not put to a bad use by the 
 generous and judicious outlay of his son. 
 
 Here, too, for the first time, I realized what is meant by 
 the "Master of the Hounds." We know so little of the 
 peculiar domestic amusements of England that a short de- 
 scription of one of these hunting establishments may be 
 useful and interesting. Mr. Albert Brassey, who has not 
 yet attained his twenty-fifth year, and who has married a 
 titled lady, has been "Master of the Hounds" for this 
 part of Oxfordshire for three years past, and early in No- 
 vember next the first "meet" of the coming season will 
 assemble on the beautiful plateau around Heythrop House, 
 
A MASTER OF THE HOUNDS. 287 
 
 whence they commence the pleasures of the day. Two or 
 three hundred of the nobility and gentry of the country 
 for ten to twenty miles round gather on these occasions, 
 and with their variegated dresses, — the men with their red 
 coats, white buckskin breeches, and neat top-boots; the 
 ladies in their long riding-habits, — the splendid horses, the 
 huntsmen, the whipper-in, out-riders, and hounds, all eager 
 for the sport, make up such a scene as well deserves the 
 graphic pen of the novelist, and shows that the sports of 
 the past in England continue at the present day. 
 
 At the time of the Norman Conquest (a.d. 1066) Eng- 
 land was a combination of forests and moors of vast extent ; 
 the population was estimated to be under three millions 
 (the population of London alone in the present day is more 
 than four millions), and only a small portion of the land 
 was under cultivation ; there were few towns and hardly 
 any roads, except those left by the Romans. Robbers 
 roamed over the country without stop or hindrance, and 
 consequently there was no security to life or property, 
 while gross ignorance and superstition prevailed every- 
 where. Civilization, however, has come like a providential 
 deliverance to sweep these evils away, but the popular sports 
 continue to be cultivated and maintained with incredible 
 assiduity and extravagance. It must cost young Mr. Bras- 
 sey at least ten thousand dollars a year to uphold his posi- 
 tion as "Master of the Hounds" for his district in part 
 of Oxfordshire. He has about thirty horses in his own 
 stables for the use of his own friends, while in what are 
 called the "kennels" twenty-one more are used by the 
 servants and the huntsmen who go out with him on one of 
 the hunting days. 
 
 Let me tell you about these "kennels," situated not 
 quite four miles from the Heythrop House. My visit to 
 them was full of compensation. Each member of the 
 "Hunt" of which Mr. Brassey is "Master" has to con 
 
288 A MASTER OF THE BOUNDS. 
 
 tribute generously out of his own funds towards the general 
 expenses of the establishment, and it is estimated that five 
 thousand pounds, or twenty-five thousand dollars, were 
 paid for the buildings in which the hunters and hounds are 
 kept. First, as to the horses and their management : I 
 think far more care and expense were bestowed upon them 
 than upon hundreds of human beings of the lower classes; 
 in fact, I may safely allege that one of these "hunters" 
 costs as much on the whole as would provide for a large 
 family. They are kept in what is called by the horse- 
 dealers " tip-top" condition, in comfortable stalls, and 
 carefully groomed until their coats fairly shine. Each of 
 these splendid animals originally cost a high price, and as 
 soon as they begin to decline, through age or infirmity, 
 are expelled in favor of their younger and more thoroughly 
 capable successors. The manager or keeper seemed to be 
 proud of his trust, and was evidently deeply interested in 
 the preparations for the coming " meet." He showed me 
 an ingenious machine for clipping horses, a novelty to me, 
 by means of which he could completely clip three horses 
 in a day, whereas under the former old-fashioned process 
 it took at least one or two days for each animal. 
 
 Passing from these beautiful stables and their twenty-one 
 fine hunters, we were introduced to the huntsman, Mr. 
 Hazleton, a spry, wiry, intelligent young fellow. The 
 hounds, all of the black-and-tan species, were confined in 
 their kennels, each one opening into a yard with stone walls, 
 over which it was easy to look. There were in all seventy- 
 four couples, the females kept separate from the males, and 
 all clean and in robust condition. Mr. Hazleton would 
 stand at the door of the kennel, after having driven the 
 dogs into the yard, and call them by name, to which they 
 would each directly answer. For instance, in the ladies' 
 pack he would ask for "Sparkle," "Fanny," "Dew Drop," 
 "Rosy," "Charmer," and so forth, all through the cata- 
 
A MASTER OF THE HOUNDS. 289 
 
 logue, and each would spring up and pass under his hand 
 into the kennel; and the same with the gentlemen's pack 
 of the canine household, who responded with equal alacrity 
 to their appellations. There are generally eighteen couples 
 sent out in a pack; one of these packs had been out the 
 day previous, and as the dogs belonging to it responded to 
 his cry, they seemed to be sleepy and tired, and not a few 
 were torn and lacerated by passing through the brambles 
 and undergrowth of the day's hunt. These hounds were 
 once the property of Lord Redesdale, and are esteemed 
 the finest in the country. The stables and kennels were of 
 stone, admirably constructed, with quarters for the whip- 
 pers-in and huntsmen. 
 
 As a preparation for the hunt or "meet," Mr. Brassey, 
 accompanied by his first whipper-in and huntsman, and a 
 considerable pack of the best hcainds, have been very busy 
 for the last week in clearing the "covers" of the cubs or 
 young foxes, the object being not only to get rid of the 
 young ones, but to accustom the hounds to hunt the old 
 foxes, which have naturally greater power of endurance. 
 These foxes abound in what are called "covers," or clus- 
 ters of heath and undergroAvth, and when the hunt begins 
 men and hounds are sent into the "covers" to beat out 
 the fox, while the sportsmen remain outside in a circle 
 waiting for Reynard to appear; and when he does, they fol- 
 low over hedges and ditches in a direct line after the hounds, 
 scouring the country far and near, and rarely without acci- 
 dent to some one of the dashing riders — through the villages 
 and farms, over the hills, past water-courses and village-dams, 
 .flying over gates and stone walls. I fear these ladies and 
 gentlemen work very much harder for pleasure than many 
 of their poorer brethren and sisters do for their daily bread. 
 
 Some amusing stories are told of the way in which they 
 often come to grief. The women are frequently as daring 
 as the men ; and I was told of one lady who was carried 
 
 N 25 
 
290 
 
 AN ANCIENT MANUFACTORY. 
 
 by her unmanageable horse into a deep moat filled with 
 mud. Her male admirers stood on the bank, watching her 
 flounderings, and were so ungallant as to fear that, by inter- 
 ference, they should spoil their white unmentionables. At 
 last a laboring man was induced to haul the lady from her 
 horse and carry her to the bank in his arms, while the poor 
 animal was dragged out by ropes. The fair sportswoman 
 after a bath and change of clothes rejoined the hunt, as 
 eager and reckless as ever, on a fresh steed. A Master of 
 the Hounds occupies a high social position; indeed, all his 
 recompense is the society which the position assures him. 
 None are equal to it, unless, like Mr. Brassey, they are 
 owners of large estates and plenty of money. 
 
 It was not to see these glittering and expensive prepara- 
 tions for England's national sport that I visited Chipping 
 Norton. I had a far more interesting and substantial ob- 
 ject in view, and that was to obtain some knowledge of the 
 manufactures of the town, especially those of wool. This 
 trade was introduced to Chipping Norton by Mr. Bliss the' 
 grandfather of my host; it was commenced by the manu- 
 facture of tilling and linsey-woolsey, and you may obtain 
 some idea of its enormous growth when I tell you that the 
 expenses of William Bliss & Son, fifty years ago, for wages 
 to the men, were about seventeen dollars a week, while 
 they now are about five hundred pounds sterling, or two 
 thousand five hundred dollars per week, and from six hun- 
 dred to eight hundred hands are employed. Founded in 
 1757, and therefore one hundred and eighteen years old, 
 their place has become one of the most important manu- 
 factories of woollen fabrics in the world. 
 
 The new building, a beautiful specimen of architecture, 
 constructed entirely of iron, stone, and glass, is insured 
 with its contents for seventy thousand pounds. The busi- 
 ness is conducted on the strictest business principles, and 
 turns out, I should think, at least two hundred thousand 
 
AN ANCIENT MANUFACTORY. 
 
 291 
 
 to three hundred thousand pounds' worth of goods per 
 annum. The goods manufactured are nearly all special- 
 ties, the town making a large amount of stuff for the army 
 and navy, especially blue and red cloth, horse clothing, 
 and serges. Their machinery is of the latest invention, 
 from which our great manufacturers in the United States 
 might copy with profit. The manufacture of these nu- 
 merous fabrics consumes large quantities of wool, which 
 are obtained chiefly from the British colonies, although 
 I saw much of English and Italian production. I need 
 not recount the graceful hospitality of Mr. Bliss and his 
 family, his enthusiastic experiences of the United States, 
 the high compliments he paid Philadelphia, in which he 
 spent many happy days, nor his anxiety in regard to the 
 approaching International Exhibition, where he will be 
 found one of the most enlightened exhibitors. 
 
 What most interested me during this most pleasurable 
 day, and left the most wholesome reflection, was the fact 
 that in the midst of their own prosperity Mr. Bliss, his 
 sons, and their families do not forget the condition of their 
 employes, men, women, and children. A little chapter 
 in connection with this fact deserves to be repeated here, 
 and to be imitated everywhere. Their special industry has 
 been recognized by awards of the highest prizes in England, 
 America, and on the Continent, but that which ought to 
 be the most valued by them is the gold medal, one of five, 
 awarded to their firm by the International Exhibition at 
 Paris, 1867. This gold medal was given not alone because 
 their fabrics were the best, but because they proved to the 
 satisfaction of the French jurors that their works had at 
 that time been carried on an entire century for the best 
 interests of employer and employed, without disputes of 
 any kind, while the social interests of those engaged had 
 been carefully attended to; that during all that time none 
 of their workmen had joined the trades' unions, or had to 
 
2Q2 AN ANCIENT MANUFACTORY. 
 
 strike for higher wages; none had gone into the workhouse, 
 while many families had worked for the firm for three gen- 
 erations. Many had saved money and bought life in- 
 surances, and no children under thirteen years of age had 
 ever been employed by them. Schools, reading-rooms, 
 lectures, and amusements of every kind had been provided, 
 and also a beautiful park of one hundred acres. Mr. Bliss 
 himself is an excellent public speaker, and -frequently ad- 
 dresses his employes, one of his most interesting dis- 
 courses being his experiences of America in 1872, which I 
 am told always attracts great crowds, exciting alternate 
 wonder and admiration. He has just passed his sixty-fifth 
 year, but does not look over fifty-five. He very mi:ch re- 
 sembles John Bright, and has all the enthusiasm of youth. 
 I do not know when I have met a more sympathetic and 
 well-informed gentleman. He has been Mayor of Chip- 
 ping Norton for successive years, and, if the fruits of a 
 well-spent life have ever been freely and gracefully gathered, 
 such may be said to have been his good fortune. If he is 
 not a happy man, then an amiable disposition, congenial 
 labors, good health, and bounteous wealth are not the signs 
 of that rare and enviable condition. 
 
 A practical insight into such an organization as W. Bliss 
 & Son's is worth a dozen theories on social or political 
 economy. The marvellous improvements in machinery by 
 which human labor is saved and increased in value, and the 
 consequent improvement in the condition of human life, 
 may be called lesson first. After that follows the fact, no 
 longer denied by realistic men like Mr. Bliss, that the 
 advance in the wages of labor in the United States has 
 compelled an almost corresponding advance in Great 
 Britain, if skilled workmen are to be retained in the latter. 
 Just here the free-trade policy comes in as the crucial test 
 upon the manufacturers, for whom it was established to 
 secure for them the markets of the world. Under that 
 
AN ANCIENT MANUFACTORY. 
 
 2 93 
 
 policy the manufacturers of the Continent, notably those 
 of Belgium and Germany, send in fabrics as good as those 
 of Great Britain, produced by workmen who get wages 
 more than one-third less than those paid in Great Britain. 
 These fabrics are sold in England and in other nations 
 at prices far below those for which the same materials can 
 be made here ! So you see that, in England's anxiety to 
 sell to the world at the lowest rates, she opens her doors 
 to rivals who boldly undersell her everywhere. Under her 
 liberal laws she must educate her people ; she must pay 
 high wages to retain her skilled labor, since autocratic 
 governments, a few hours distant, pay their working-classes 
 what they please, and send their goods here, which they 
 offer at correspondingly reduced rates. The English 
 manufacturers survey the future with gloomy fear. They 
 see not only the fierce competition of the Continent, but 
 the British Colonies are setting up for themselves, and de- 
 manding "protection" to manufacture their own goods, 
 while the Americans are sending the proofs of their 
 skilled labor into English markets, and preparing to make 
 cotton and woollen fabrics on their own soil out of the 
 raw material. This is the other view of " free trade," and 
 may be accepted as the key to an ominous future. 
 Chipping Norton, September, 1S75. 
 
 25* 
 
294 
 
 THE BLACK COUNTRY. 
 
 LXX. 
 
 The Black Country. 
 
 Acting steadily upon the principle which I wish were 
 more carefully observed by those who write of the United 
 States in the English papers, namely — that of presenting the 
 best side of everything English, including, of course, what 
 relates to labor, I have not in this correspondence reflected 
 the offensive details constantly published in London, show- 
 ing how difficult it is in this overcrowded country to ad- 
 minister to the wants and the comforts of the working- 
 classes. Indeed, if I had not made it a rule to keep out of 
 sight these details I could have presented a far more start- 
 ling exhibit of matters to be regretted here than that which 
 too frequently appears in the British journals in regard to 
 the shortcomings and misfortunes of the United States. 
 There is so much in Great Britain to admire, alike in the 
 government and among the people, so much that I would 
 gladly see repeated in my own country, that I leave the 
 task of presenting the worst side of the picture to those 
 who deal in that sort of writing. 
 
 But there is a duty present to every intelligent observer 
 that must be discharged. I mean the exposure of the 
 evident mischiefs resulting from the severe and inexorable 
 application of the system of free trade. I have spoken of 
 the admission, or rather of the frank statement, of an intel- 
 ligent woollen manufacturer in Oxfordshire in regard to 
 the ruinous competition from which he and others suffer 
 from the sale of the products of the cheap labor of Germany 
 and Belgium. Take another witness : On the 28th of Sep- 
 tember, the London Times contained a statement from Mr. 
 Baker, Inspector of Factories, for the half-year ending with 
 
THE BLACK COUNTRY. 
 
 295 
 
 April, 1S75, which gives extracts from a remarkable report 
 made to him by Mr. Sub-Inspector Brewer on the nail and 
 chain district of the "Black Country," a district in the 
 counties of Warwick and Stafford, between Birmingham 
 and Wolverhampton, the capital of which, named Wednes- 
 bury, has twenty-one thousand voters, and was created a 
 Parliamentary borough by Mr. Disraeli's Reform Bill of 
 1867. I have frequently read in journals hostile to the 
 Government, such as Reynolds' Newspaper, appalling ac- 
 counts of the terrible privations of the poor women who are 
 compelled to work in these trying trades in that region, not 
 only for their own support, but for the support of their 
 drunken fathers or husbands and neglected children ; and 
 I put the picture aside as one not fit to be spread before 
 the American people. But here, in the candid and ac- 
 cepted organ of the best society, the London Times, I find 
 the whole story printed in full. Mr. Baker does not hesi- 
 tate to say in regard to this report of his subordinate: "I 
 have not introduced a tithe of what he and other writers 
 have said of this Black Country. In a report of this 
 kind, or of any kind, it is indescribable and much must 
 necessarily be omitted. But I believe, from what I have 
 myself seen, all that I have written is true, and I am 
 afraid that all I should have written is true also." "The 
 outcry," Mr. Brewer says, "against the colliers' and pud- 
 dlers' wives working is very great, and I am continually 
 asked whether I cannot do something to stop women's 
 labor, especially in and around Halesowen (where ' hun- 
 dreds' work, making the large nails, or spikes), and where 
 it is the order of the day, and is far fitter for men than for 
 women. And these women work night and day, and toil 
 and slave, and for what? Not for the price that straight- 
 forward masters would give, but for any price any crafty 
 knave of a master chooses to offer. These women work 
 so long as they can get something to satisfy their half- 
 
296 THE BLACK COUNTRY. 
 
 starving families, while the ought-to-be bread-winner is 
 luxuriating in some public-house at his ease. Day by day 
 I am more and more convinced that this women's labor is 
 the bane of this place. Nor do I confine this remark to 
 the nail and chain trade alone. It was only the other day 
 that a young woman, addressing me, said, ' I say, master, 
 I wish you would make my man do a little more work, and 
 me less. I married a swell, I did.' On my inquiring 
 what she meant by a swell, she replied, 'Why, when I 
 married him in the morning he had a smart gold watch 
 and chain, and a smart dickey, but when we came to go to 
 bed at night I'm blessed if he had e're a shirt on; and 
 ever since I've had to keep him by working in the brick- 
 yard, and not only keep him, but find him money to drink.' 
 Nor is this state of things confined to the Black Country. 
 At Bromsgrove I heard also of the growing custom of idle, 
 lazy young lads looking out for skilled, industrious wives, 
 in order to obtain an easy life. Things go on smoothly 
 for a time, but then come children and perhaps sickness, 
 and the idle hand of the legitimate bread-winner has lost 
 its craft, or a course of drunkenness has so debilitated him 
 that he can no longer stand the fatigue and heat. While 
 the mother toils and slaves the children are left uncared 
 for, to wander, shoeless and in rags, till they are old enough 
 to blow the bellows for their father at a miserable pittance 
 per week — to be kicked and cuffed, hear filthy, indecent, 
 and blasphemous language, and are then sent into the shop 
 amid men degraded by drink and gambling in time to 
 follow the same course. Take, again, the instance of a 
 collier's wife in this Black Country who works at chain- 
 making about ten hours a day, for which she is paid eight 
 shillings a week, though if she had taken her work to an 
 honest master she might have had twelve shillings. Out of 
 this, before she can take any for herself, she has probably 
 to pay for nursing her baby while she works, two shillings 
 
THE BLACK COUNTRY. 297 
 
 a week for her breezes — i.e., firing for her nail-making, — 
 and one shilling for the hire of her stall, leaving her half a 
 crown for her subsistence. Women certainly work often 
 in an advanced state of pregnancy. Not many days since 
 a tale was related to me by an iron-master of what hap- 
 pened in a brickyard near Bilston a short time back. The 
 manager noted a girl carrying clay looking exceedingly ill. 
 Thinking she had been drinking over-night he exclaimed, 
 ' Why, Clara, you don't look up to much this morning?' 
 ' No more would you,' was the retort, 'if you had had a 
 child during the night.' " 
 
 Now, turn to the Lo ndo n Times of this very day (October 
 4, 1875), an d you find a report from the senior Inspector 
 of Factories, Mr. Redgrave, far more careful, written with 
 an evident effort not alone to hide these horrible details, 
 but to provide a possible remedy against the growing dis- 
 comforts of other and better branches of manufacture, like 
 that of my friend in Oxfordshire, who notes the increasing 
 competition of the products of Germany and Belgium with 
 undisguised alarm. The two facts commented upon by 
 him, namely, the necessary advance of wages in England 
 and the necessary shortening of the hours of labor, which, 
 of course, largely reduce the profits of the manufacturer, 
 and in the same degree invite the rivalry of his foreign 
 competitors, are here met by certain indefinite suggestions, 
 which only serve to increase the force of the argument 
 against free trade. A few extracts from the article of The 
 Times will show to you the justice of this assertion : 
 
 " We are the more delighted to receive Mr. Redgrave's trustworthy as- 
 surance that at least the state of our textile factories is far better than it has 
 been represented, and to learn also that some of the facts of the case, ap- 
 parently most unfavorable, are in reality not at variance with conclusions 
 we should all be anxious to accept. Wages, for example, are higher than 
 thev have ever been, while the hours of labor have been very considerably 
 shortened. How, then, it has been urged, can it be expected that profits 
 should be maintained at anything like their former level? And, if so, how 
 N* 
 
298 THE BLACK COUNTRY. 
 
 is England to keep her place in the teeth of the sharp foreign competition 
 to which she is more and more exposed? Mr. Redgrave admits the facts 
 which have given so much anxiety to alarmists ; but he adds, as the ex- 
 tracts we publish this morning show, some others, which tend to modify in 
 a very important way the practical lessons to be derived from them. 
 Though labor is dearer than it used to be, and the hours of work are 
 shorter, yet, owing in part to the increased skill of the laborer, but still 
 more to the enormous improvements lately made in machinery, production 
 and profits have not suffered as we might expect. We have been told 
 again, on no mean authority, of the great physical deterioration which has 
 affected the entire ranks of those who have been engaged in our factories 
 and we have felt that if this were so the evil was far too grave to be made 
 up for by the material gains which might accompany it. The perusal of 
 Mr. Redgrave's report may serve on this point, too, to quiet our alarm, or, 
 at any rate, to reduce it very considerably. He finds that the balance of 
 evidence points really to an improvement rather than to a deterioration. 
 There is much, it is true, which still has to be done, but our course for 
 some time past has been in the right direction, and a fuller knowledge of 
 the evils which still remain unremedied may be trusted to be a further and 
 almost certain step towards their cure. 
 
 " The excessive labor of adult females is an evil with which the law can- 
 not as directly deal. The objections on the ground of freedom of contract 
 to further legislative intervention for the protection of women from ex- 
 cessive labor have been successfully met, but the interference of the law 
 cannot be extended indefinitely. It is not in the manufacturing districts, 
 however, that the strongest case for interference has been made out. It 
 is in the ' Black Country,' and over the hard toil of nail and chain making, 
 that the lot of the workwomen appears to be most deplorable. Mr. 
 Brewer's report on this subject, some extracts from which we published 
 last Tuesday, does not, of course, represent the common state of the dis- 
 trict to which it relates ; yet even as isolated facts the contents of his nar- 
 rative are not pleasant reading. But, however great the evil may be, we 
 must look for its complete cure to the influence of causes more potent in 
 the long run than any new enactments which Parliament can add to the 
 statute book. The working-classes in our manufacturing districts now 
 hold their destinies in their own hands. They are in a very real sense 
 their own masters, and it is for them to determine in what way the power 
 they have gained is to be exercised. Their employers, as a body, are alive 
 to the duties of their position. But dependence on the employer belongs 
 rather to the patriarchal than to the modern stage of industry. Valuable 
 as the good-will of the master may be, it is of far less consequence at 
 present than the enlightened self-help of the workmen and workwomen 
 under him. The interest involved in the textile manufactures of the 
 
THE BLACK COUNTRY. 
 
 299 
 
 country are, in particular, so enormous, and the mischievous result of any 
 mistake in dealing with them would, as Mr. Redgrave truly remarks, be 
 so terrible to all concerned, that there is need for the utmost caution on 
 the part of the Legislature. In the gradual and spontaneous remedy 
 which the operative classes can themselves apply and regulate there is no 
 such danger to be feared. It is to this that we should now naturally look 
 for the improvements we desire to see in the condition of the whole body 
 of our operatives ; nor shall we despair if it is some time yet before our 
 confidence has been justified by the event." 
 
 Observe the extreme care with which The Times avoids 
 the slightest reference to the main cause of this widespread 
 depression, — the policy of attempting to compete with other 
 nations who pay their workmen smaller wages and work 
 them a longer time. Great Britain, you will perceive, in 
 the inexorable sternness with which she adheres to free trade, 
 cannot, with her large intelligence and the progressive 
 spirit of her leaders, refuse to follow the example of the 
 United States by increasing the wages of her working peo- 
 ple wherever she can, and by yielding to their demand for 
 shortened hours ; and it is natural that her manufacturers 
 should suffer from their confessed inability to maintain 
 their position in a market of which their German and Bel- 
 gian rivals are the masters. The gloomy picture told by 
 the official authorities of the revolting degradation and 
 misery of the working-women of the "Black Country" 
 may be called the sombre background to the situation of 
 those who are known to be more comfortable, and yet 
 whose future is darkened by the saddest forebodings. I 
 will enter into no encomium upon what is called the pro- 
 tection policy of the United States, which we have been 
 constrained to adhere to in consequence of our great debt, 
 and which we might yet consistently maintain in view of 
 the concessions of our British cousins ; but I will close this 
 letter by asking you to read the communication in the 
 London Observer (October 3), addressed by Mr. David A. 
 Wells, late United States Revenue Commissioner, to Mr. 
 
3°° 
 
 THE BLACK COUNTRY. 
 
 T. B. Potter, M.P., one of the free-trade leaders. The 
 merit of this letter of Mr. Wells is his appeal to the hesi- 
 tating carpet-manufacturers of England to be represented 
 at the Philadelphia Exhibition. It is true he invites them 
 to reconsider their refusal on the ground that their presence 
 will be an argument in favor of the free-trade doctrines of 
 Mr. Bright and Mr. Potter. We are not afraid to com- 
 pare the two systems, especially in the light of such ad- 
 missions as I have quoted from official sources and from 
 the columns of the London Times. The International 
 Exhibition of 1876 will be nothing if not cosmopolitan. 
 It will be something more than a comparison of fabrics : it 
 will be an interchange of great thoughts and great ideas, 
 and we shall be as glad to welcome the free-traders of 
 England as the protectionists of France. 
 
 "United States. August, 1875. 
 " To Thomas Bay ley Potler, Esq*, Af.P., Secretary of the Cobdcn Club. 
 
 " Dear Sir: It is not necessary for me to inform you that an Interna- 
 tional Exhibition of the products of all nations, commemorative of the 
 completion of the first hundred years of the United States as a nation, will 
 open in the city of Philadelphia in May next. To be present and con- 
 tribute to this Exhibition, an invitation to the people of all countries has 
 been officially extended by the President of the United States, and from 
 Great Britain especially, by reason of a common blood and close com- 
 mercial intercourse, a cordial response has been anticipated. An impres- 
 sion, however, very generally prevails in the United States that foreign 
 manufacturers, artists, and artisans are not disposed to contribute of their 
 products to this Exhibition — an impression due, doubtless, in part to some 
 recent remarks of Mr. Bright, and also to the circumstance that, in at least 
 one instance, an entire class of English manufacturers (English carpets) 
 have considered and officially determined not to participate. For what 
 inducement, it has been pertinently asked, can be offered to citizens of 
 other countries to send to the United States specimens of their skill, excel- 
 lence, and cheapness in production, when the laws and fiscal policy of the 
 United States have for years been specially framed and maintained with a 
 view of excluding these same products from their markets, and also for 
 preventing their own citizens from taking advantage, through the recipro- 
 cal exchange of their domestic products, of this same skill, excellence, or 
 cheapness ? 
 
THE BLACK' COUNTRY. 
 
 301 
 
 "Pertinent undoubtedly as is this question, and difficult as it certainly 
 must be for any citizen of the United States interested in the Exhibition to 
 satisfactorily answer it, it is nevertheless my opinion that foreign manufac- 
 turers will make a grievous mistake in withholding their products from the 
 Philadelphia Exhibition of 1876, and that there are in some respects more 
 cogent reasons, even, for their contributing to the United States Centennial 
 than have existed in the case of any of the prior European international 
 exhibitions. For what better opportunity can possibly be afforded to a 
 foreign manufacturer to convince a benighted people of the terrible economic 
 blunder committed in restricting exchanges by an extravagant, prohibitory 
 tariff on imports than to publicly contrast the prices of foreign productions, 
 free of duty, or under moderate imposts, imposed solely with a view to 
 revenue, with the prevailing prices under the existing American tariff? In 
 short, I have no doubt that by a judicious show of foreign commodities, 
 bearing placards stating clearly the conditions and cost of production, 
 more can be accomplished in a single season in educating the American 
 people up to a clear perception of the immense benefits certain to result 
 from an unrestricted commercial intercourse with foreign nations, such as 
 now exists between the separate and industrially diverse States of Ihe Union, 
 than h;is been achieved by all that has been written and said on this subject 
 in tli is country during the last quarter of a century. 
 
 "Through you, therefore, as Secretary of the Cobden Club, I desire to 
 impress upon the members of the Club, and upon all friends of economic 
 reform in Europe and elsewhere, the importance of urging foreign manu- 
 facturers to send to the Philadelphia Exhibition not only a full and typical 
 assortment of their respective products, but that each exhibitor also cause 
 to be prepared for exhibition or general distribution therewith a clear and 
 succinct statement of the price at which his goods are now sold in the 
 United States under the existing American tariff, and which they could be 
 sold for in gold if allowed importation free of duty, or under a duty of 
 twenty per cent, ad valorem. To do this it will not be necessary, in my 
 opinion, to obtain any official authorization in advance from the Directors 
 of the Exhibition; for the fundamental idea involved in all industrial 
 exhibitions, and more especially those of an international character, is 
 education in respect to all the conditions involved in the production and 
 use of the things exhibited. So that it may be confidently asserted that 
 if any attempt should be seriously made at Philadelphia to restrain any 
 exhibitor from properly stating the cost or selling price of his commodities 
 under varying conditions, the motive would be so obviously a desire to 
 prevent, for purely selfish and class interests, the people from obtaining 
 legitimate information, that public opinion would not for one moment tol- 
 erate the restriction. 
 
 " In further illustration of this subject, I append the following extract 
 of a letter recently addressed to me by Mr. ]. S. Moore, of New York 
 
 26 
 
3° 2 
 
 CENTENNIAL ITEMS. 
 
 one of my former official assistants under the Government, whose thorough 
 acquaintance with our American fiscal system enables him most happily to 
 confirm my views in respect to the opportunity now afforded for exposing 
 to the people of the United States the extravagance and absurdities of*" 
 their existing tariff: 'As an example of what may be taught at Philadel- 
 phia,' writes Mr. Moore, ' suppose we take the well-known fabric which 
 bears the name of " alpaca." A quality of this article of women's wear, 
 which costs in Bradford, England, from eight to nine pence per yard, 
 cannot be sold in New York, owing to a duty of sixty-seven per cent, ad 
 valorem, and a premium of from twelve to fifteen per cent, on gold, for 
 less than thirty-eight to forty cents currency. But if an exhibitor of this 
 quality of fabrics should append to them a placard bearing in clear-printed 
 letters words to this effect : " This alpaca, which now sells in New York for 
 forty cents per yard currency, could, if admitted duty free, be sold for 
 twenty-two cents per yard gold," then " he who runs may read," and needs 
 no interpreter to tell him the meaning of what he reads ; and if a similar 
 course were taken by all foreign exhibitors and a truly great display of 
 foreign goods were made, then every woman, to say nothing of the men, 
 who enters that devoted "Centennial" will become a free-trader, and I need 
 hardly prophesy to you the influence such an important auxiliary will have 
 on future political platforms and elections. The Centennial " cactus tariff" 
 may thus blossom for the last time, and then wither under the glass roof 
 of the Philadelphia Exhibition, with no prospect, let us hope, of blossom- 
 ing again with the coming century.' 
 
 " I am, yours most respectfully, 
 
 " David A. Wells. 
 London, October, 1875. 
 
 , 
 
 L X X I. 
 
 Centennial Items. 
 
 r 
 
 It is a great satisfaction to report the voluntary activity 
 
 of all the Americans that I have met now travelling abroad 
 in presenting our International Exhibition to their friends 
 in Europe. Mr. Edward D. Holton, one of the Centen- 
 nial Commissioners for Wisconsin, has just returned from 
 a long tour through Northern Europe full of enthusiasm 
 
CENTENNl. t L ITEMS. 
 
 3°3 
 
 and good news. His letter to a leading paper in Wiscon- 
 sin, which lie has kindly read to me, relating his experience 
 abroad and abounding in excellent suggestions, will no 
 doubt be welcome reading to his numerous friends at home 
 and will have a good effect in other quarters. Mr. Holton 
 is a gentleman of true American energy and progress, and 
 his intercourse with many of the public men of Germany, 
 Russia, and Sweden, including in the latter the King and 
 Queen, has awakened a new interest for the Centennial in 
 those countries. 
 
 Our townsman, Mr. Joseph Patterson, who is about re- 
 turning home, has been in steady communication with 
 influential people in London, and lias rendered efficient 
 service by his disinterested and intelligent efforts. In- 
 deed, the daily discussion of this subject in foreign journals 
 makes it impossible for any American traveller to remain 
 indifferent to the cause which excites so much curiosity 
 among strangers. Every variety of product and invention 
 will be sent forward for exhibition, and not only in the 
 merely material arts, but the attention of the Europeans is 
 constantly awakened to the historical aspects of the Expo- 
 sition. For instance, I am promised a painting which 
 represents a party of Indians gold-washing in a pool by the 
 river Apalachicola — an engraving of which, by Debry, is 
 to be found in the "Historia American," an old Latin 
 work published in Frankfort in 1634. It is not known 
 who painted the picture. The figures are all cleverly fin- 
 ished in bas-relief, and in a manner totally different from 
 that of any known master. It is on canvas, fifty by forty 
 inches. Photographs have been taken of this curious relic 
 by the British Museum, one of which I shall send to our 
 National Museum. The painting itself is at present in the 
 Leeds Exhibition, where it will remain till the end of Oc- 
 tober, and where it attracts much attention. 
 
 Mr. Stephen I. Tucker, the very accomplished Rouge 
 
304 CENTENNIAL ITEMS. 
 
 Croix Pursuivant in the Heralds' College, to whom I have 
 been much indebted for valuable information, sends me 
 the enclosed paragraphs, which may attract the notice of 
 old Philadelphians and antiquarians, and he will be grate- 
 ful for any information that may be forwarded to him. 
 His address is " Heralds' College, London." 
 
 1. Tucker Family. — In or about the year 1808 Mr. Jonathan Tucker, of 
 the city of Exeter, England, settled in Philadelphia with his wife (Sarah 
 Chappie) and an only daughter. He was shortly afterwards visited by his 
 father, Mr. William Tucker (of Exeter), who died in Philadelphia. Mr. 
 Micaijah Tucker (brother of Jonathan) also went to Philadelphia, with an 
 only son (Thomas), before his father"s death. Any information as to the 
 dates of death and places of burial of William Tucker, and Jonathan and 
 Micaijah, his sons, or of the subsequent history of Thomas Tucker, son of 
 Micaijah, or of the daughter of Jonathan, will be thankfully acknowledged, 
 and all expenses attending it paid by Mr. Tucker. 
 
 2. Tucker Family. — Wanted to purchase, " A Genealogical and Histori- 
 cal Account of the Descendants of Henry Tucker," by George H. Tucker. 
 New York, 1851. Printed by William C. Martin, ill John Street. Any 
 other works by persons of the name or relating to the family of Tucker 
 will be purchased. 
 
 3. " Beauties of Tucker." — A small volume so called, being a selection 
 from the writings of Abraham Tucker. Published in America. Copies 
 wanted. 
 
 4. Sanger Family. — Genealogy of the Descendants of Richard Sanger, 
 the Puritan, by Rev. Abner Morse. Boston: George Coolidge, 1851. 
 Copy wanted. 
 
 5. Genealogy of the Descendants of Several Ancient Puritans. — By Rev. 
 Abner Morse. Boston, 1857. Copy wanted. 
 
 6. Life of Henry Funster, First President of Harvard College. — By 
 Rev. Jeremiah Chaplin, D.D. Boston, 1872. Copy wanted.* 
 
 Let me say, en passant, that justice compels the state- 
 ment that Mr. living's Macbeth at the Lyceum is not 
 nearly so successful as his Hamlet. His great popularity 
 in London and his admitted genius have saved him from 
 criticisms which would otherwise have been severe, and, as 
 
 Xos. 2, 4, 5, 6 are all included in Mr. Whitmore's " American Genealo- 
 gist." 
 
A NATIONAL CAT-SHOW. 
 
 3°5 
 
 it is, there is no doubt that the play will have to be with- 
 drawn at an early day. The English public are too famil- 
 iar with the ideal of Macready as Macbeth, and Mrs. 
 Siddons as Lady Macbeth, not to speak of the noble per- 
 sonation of Edwin Forrest, who is still remembered and 
 praised by those who recall his performances in London 
 some forty years ago ; and thus Mr. living's conception 
 appears feeble and insufficient. 
 London, October, 1875. 
 
 LXXII. 
 
 A National Cat-Show. 
 
 Curiosity is a controlling element in human nature, and 
 yet when Charles Sprague made it the subject of a beautiful 
 poem many years ago he never anticipated, even in his 
 fruitful imagination, what strange schemes it would suggest. 
 He never, certainly, dreamed of a baby-show or a fat man's 
 exhibition. He might have had a vision of dogs in pens, 
 of goats, and of donkeys, but I do not think he ever con- 
 ceived such a thing as a national cat-show in London. And 
 yet it is just that which is now going on at the Crystal Palace, 
 Sydenham, and this is the seventh of the annual series. 
 Some years ago an ingenious American advertised for thou- 
 sands of cats, which were to be utilized for their skins, but 
 the enterprise closed — no joke is intended — in a catastrophe, 
 and it was not until the authorities of the Crystal Palace 
 took the matter in hand that our feline friends were put to 
 any practical purpose outside of their fidelity as household 
 favorites and their dexterity as rat-catchers. The present 
 
 26* 
 
306 A NATIONAL CAT-SHOW. 
 
 season has attracted no less than two hundred and thirteen 
 exhibitors. It would not seem possible that there is suf- 
 ficient interest in the matter in England, in these busy 
 times, to aid in the breeding and training of cats. Never- 
 theless, such is the case, and the fact that the seventh an- 
 nual cat-show of the Crystal Palace, Sydenham, attracts 
 such a number of exhibitors, shows it. 
 
 In my letter on the London dogs I referred to a home 
 where they were cared for and made comfortable when lost 
 or neglected. There is no such institution provided for the 
 cats of London, simply because, being more domesticated 
 and without the peripatetic desires of their canine acquaint- 
 ances, a cat rarely gets so very far away from the hearth 
 as to need a search-warrant to bring it back. When such 
 an accident occurs, pussy relies upon two sources for suste- 
 nance. First, the happily abounding charity of the people 
 of London to a poor creature suffering from the pangs of 
 hunger. It is not at all exceptional to see some Good 
 Samaritan in the form of a lady, frequently in the highest 
 class of society, going out of her way to purchase food for 
 one of these strayed and starving inhabitants of the London 
 " area" or basement of the houses. The other source from 
 which a lost cat is most certain to derive food is from the 
 nearest pantry or kitchen, and then the rats in the old 
 streets. I should say that half the households of London 
 and Philadelphia each contain a cat — not confined to the 
 residences of the rich, the middle class, and the very poor, 
 but many business houses keep sometimes two or three ; 
 they are found to be extremely useful, without causing 
 trouble. You see them everywhere. In the machine-room 
 of a steam manufactory you look up, and there, sitting quite 
 comfortably — perhaps within a few inches of a wheel revolv- 
 ing at the rate of some thousands of evolutions a minute — 
 is Miss Pussy. Last year, when visiting the yard where 
 Mr. Charles Jamrach temporarily keeps the wild beasts 
 
A NATIONAL CAT-SHOW. 
 
 3°7 
 
 destined for the various Zoological Gardens of Europe and 
 America, I saw two or three tame cats, one of which was 
 sitting just above an iron cage containing a ferocious jaguar, 
 a late arrival, much interested in the movements of the 
 beautiful prisoner. One of them, the head-keeper informed 
 me, had been in his yard for more than two years, but its 
 predecessor had met with a sad but sudden death by drop- 
 ping into the mouth of a hungry lioness. 
 
 So much care and love being devoted to cats in London, 
 it was not surprising that the efforts of the Crystal Palace 
 authorities to improve the breed, as well as to encourage 
 the kind treatment of the animals, should be successful. 
 At first, numbers of people were attracted by. the novelty 
 of the scene alone, but, though this section of the visitors 
 to the cat-show is still large, many now come with a party 
 of children. The centre transept of the Crystal Palace, 
 at once a beautiful promenade and a delightful resting- 
 place, was crowded by the visitors who came to see the 
 cats in cages down each side. Each cage contained a 
 cushion for pussy, and a little saucer filled with milk, etc., 
 while the prize cats were distinguished by a blue flag hung 
 from the top. Some idea of the enterprise of the authori- 
 ties at the Palace may be gathered from the fact that about 
 one hundred and thirty prizes were offered for competition, 
 from five pounds to fifteen shillings, while marks of dis- 
 tinction, which are equally coveted, such as "very highly 
 commended," are also awarded. In certain classes, where 
 there is a great competition, and only say three prizes, those 
 cats which are highly commended have a good chance of 
 carrying off the first prizes at local shows or exhibitions, 
 where their standing would be more completely recognized. 
 The best tabby cat received a silver cup. For this prize 
 there was a general rivalry; there were thirty-six candi- 
 dates, and as they were all first-class the decision of the 
 judges was not made until after much discussion. The 
 
308 A NATIONAL CAT-SHOW. 
 
 prizeman at last appeared in Master Shuckard's "Tommy 
 Dodd," aged nine years, and valued at one hundred pounds 
 (five hundred dollars); the winner of the second prize was 
 also held at the same amount, while the value attached to 
 others in the same class was never below five pounds. Miss 
 Shorthouse's cat, "age unknown, possesses a tabular pedi- 
 gree for six generations," and is valued by its owner at 
 ten thousand pounds, but in face of these substantial argu- 
 ments Miss Shorthouse's favorite was not among the prizes, 
 only receiving a high "commendation." Others of the 
 candidates were magnificent creatures, graceful in their 
 movements, their furs shining with gloss resembling the 
 richest velvet. These cats were the best in the show, and 
 were specially considered by the judges to be a superb 
 class. The average weight of each was about sixteen and 
 one-half pounds. One of the prizes was for the " heaviest 
 cat in the show," and this was won by a specimen weigh- 
 ing a few ounces over eighteen pounds. This gentleman 
 was so overcome with joy at the honor he had won that lie 
 gave himself up to amusement the whole day, glad to en- 
 gage in a game with the first youngster that came along. 
 Few out of the five hundred pussies showed bad tempers ; 
 the exceptions were among the black cats, which, for the 
 most part, seemed discontented. Very different was the 
 conduct of the long-haired Angora species, with their 
 splendid coats white as snow, their pink eyes, and fiery 
 appearance, forming one of the most interesting features. 
 
 The crowds of children who almost, in these days, live 
 at the Palace make their choice without regard to the deci- 
 sion of the judges, and their favorites are at once exalted 
 among themselves. The newest juvenile favorites are three 
 kittens belonging to one family, of the Angora breed, 
 strikingly beautiful, and a lady cat, the happy possessor of 
 eight kittens about two days old, all like their mother, 
 perfectly white and quite undistinguishable from one an- 
 
A NATIONAL CATS HO IV. 
 
 3°9 
 
 other. Another specimen had greatness thrust upon him, 
 because, poor fellow, he had the misfortune to be born with- 
 out forelegs. This gentleman gets about after the fashion 
 of the kangaroo, and his manner of getting over the ground 
 is certainly curious, if not graceful. This unique specta- 
 cle is under distinguished auspices; as usual, a titled per- 
 sonage heads the list of patrons, which closes with the 
 name of Charles Robert Darwin, the renowned philoso- 
 pher and naturalist. In one of his last works he infers that 
 "man is descended from a hairy quadruped, furnished with 
 a tail and pointed ears, probably arboreal in its habits." 
 He may have found the feline species a proper theme for 
 his researches. Mr. Darwin is now in his sixty-fifth year, 
 and has been greatly honored in his day and time. In 
 1S39 he married the granddaughter of Josiah Wedgwood, 
 the well-known manufacturer and importer of earthen or 
 ceramic ware. I never think of him without recollecting 
 what the venerable Joseph Henry, of the Smithsonian 
 Institute, said to me of the Darwinian theory of "The 
 Descent of Man," after somebody had been assailing the 
 eccentric English scientist: "Well, sir, I don't care to 
 know about where we come from, but this I will say, that 
 I would rather think that the human race had risen from 
 the ape, than that it descended from the angels." 
 London, October, 1875. 
 
3 io PANIC ON 'CHANGE. 
 
 LXXIII. 
 
 Panic on 'Change. — Turkish Insolvency and American Securities. 
 
 Just now the English capitalists have been struck be- 
 tween wind and water by the scarcely unexpected half 
 repudiation of Turkish bonds by the Government of the 
 Sultan, and I am reminded of the forcible words of an Eng- 
 lish traveller after he had examined the internal condition 
 of the great Mohammedan Empire. " The day will come," 
 he said, "and that is not far off, when civilized Europe 
 will be compelled to take stern action in regard to Turkey, 
 and for my part I think that if it were blotted from the 
 map of the world, and divided among other nations, it 
 would be the best thing that could happen to its people 
 and to thousands of foreigners who are constantly investing 
 in its funds with a certainty of bankruptcy." These words, 
 uttered only two weeks ago, are now recalled in the face of 
 a recent decree of the Turkish Government, which is thus 
 characterized in The Times, the most moderate and careful 
 of all the London journals : 
 
 " There is no need to emphasize the fact, which was stated in our second 
 edition of yesterday, that the Turkish Government is unable to pay the full 
 claims of its creditors. Sufficiently grave is the simple announcement that 
 from the ist of January next the Porte will, for five years, pay the interest 
 and the amortissement of its public debt, half in cash and half in bonds 
 bearing interest at the rate of five per cent. Thus the holders of Turkish 
 stock will find the half of their dividends reduced to an uncertain quantity 
 for a certain time, and beyond that period the possibilities must, of course, 
 be dim. Such an announcement has naturally caused much commotion 
 in the circles both of politics and finance; yet there is no reason why it 
 should have surprised any moderately well-informed person, except as all 
 great changes startle us at the moment of their occurrence even when 
 
TURKISH INSOLVENCY. 311 
 
 they have been clearly foreseen. It has for a long time been certain that, 
 unless the Porte should essentially change its plan of administration, it 
 would be forced to come to such a decision as it has now reached, and 
 every year made the prospects of such an amendment seem more hope- 
 less. Ambassadors lectured it on the ruinous waste of its expenditure. 
 Our own Government plainly warned it again and again that it was on the 
 high road to bankruptcy. 
 
 " But the main cause of the embarrassment is the ease with which Turkey 
 has been able to borrow money. Her expenditure was comparati\ cly 
 small before the Crimean war, because she was then content with a form 
 of government which, if very bad, was also very cheap. No Ottoman 
 minister then thought of public works. The cost of police was as trivial 
 as the institution itself. The army was small, badly fed, poorly clothed, 
 irregularly paid, and therefore far from costly. The enormous expense of 
 ironclads still lay in the future. The Porte was, of course, in a state of 
 financial embarrassment, but it resorted only to the rude expedients of 
 debasing the coin and issuing an inconvertible paper currency. The rev- 
 enue was so small that it imperiously checked the extravagance of the 
 Palace. Rut everything was changed as if by magic when Turkey entered 
 into the community of European nations, when the Great Powers en- 
 couraged her to develop her resources, and when she found how much 
 more easy it was to negotiate loans than to raise taxes. Her expenditure 
 then mounted swiftly, and the waste has been reckless. As fast as one 
 loan was spent another was raised, and there have been no fewer than 
 fourteen in about twenty years. The modest demand for three million 
 pounds, with which she began in 1854. had grown in 1865 to a call for 
 thirty-six million pounds, and last year her necessities impelled her to ask 
 for forty million pounds. Thus she has piled up a debt of more than one 
 hundred and eighty million pounds in twenty years, and she has to spend 
 nearly half her revenue in paying her 1 creditors. As the riches of her soil 
 are undeveloped, even that enormous debt might not cause much misgiving 
 if most of it had been applied productively ; but little has been done either 
 to. construct railways or open mines. Each loan has been used to build 
 ironclads which are worse than useless, to supply the means of riotous 
 waste, and to pay the creditors of the Empire. The Porte, in fact, has been 
 systematically living beyond its means, borrowing money everywhere to 
 !\ its extravagance, and then borrowing again to pay the interest of 
 the loans already raised. As fast as one amount has become due another 
 has been borrowed to pay for the first. Such advances could be obtained 
 only at a very high rate of interest, and thus the real sums obtained by 
 Turkev have been fir less than those she has promised to pay. Still, she 
 has obtained an enormous sum, and by far the greater part of it is represented 
 bv nothing whatever. It is as clean gone as if it had been flung into the sea." 
 
312 
 
 Ti'KA'fS/I INSOLVENCY. 
 
 The scene on 'Change after the Sultan's repudiating de- 
 cree was published was exceedingly exciting. A resistless 
 panic took possession of the whole market. Turkish 
 securities fell with appalling rapidity. Nothing, indeed, 
 stood firm but the Massachusetts loan, which was all taken 
 in a moment, and if it had been larger it would have been 
 likewise instantly absorbed. The Turkish and Egyptian 
 stocks were for a time unsalable. Then came a reaction, 
 which was followed by another collapse. The corn market 
 has been steadily rising, which is a very good indication 
 for the United States. The money article of The Times 
 tries to stop the panic; other papers have gone so far as to 
 demand the interference of the Governments of Europe in 
 regard to Turkey. It is clear that something must be done 
 at once. Nothing, in fact, but the known designs of Rus- 
 sia against the Ottoman Porte would prevent such a parti- 
 tion of the Turkish Empire as would close out her constant 
 drafts upon European capital and confidence.* 
 
 Now let me turn to another side of the financial picture. 
 In the midst of this Turkish panic, Mr. Edward D. Holton, 
 Centennial Commissioner from Wisconsin, asked me to 
 accompany him to the International Chamber of Commerce, 
 where the Mississippi Valley Society have rooms. The 
 president of the society is John Crossley, Esq., M.P., and 
 his associates are all Englishmen of the highest character. 
 Their special objects are stated as follows : 
 
 First. To fix attention upon the Valley of the Mississ : ppi as the ^rcat 
 coming market ; the world's new th nd consumption. 
 
 Second. To promote the application of European capital to the develop- 
 ment of this market ; to the cultivation of the soil ; the working of the 
 mines; the improvement and cheapening of inland and ocean transporta- 
 tion, and the establishment of direct trading. 
 
 * The Sultan's decree reducing the interest on the Turkish debt to one- 
 half of the legal amount has the date of " October 6, 1875." Within six 
 months after this another decree deferred until July the payment of the 
 instalment due in April, 1876. 
 
AMERICAN SECURITIES. 
 
 3 T 3 
 
 Third. To direct European labor to the same objects. 
 
 Fourth. To establish in Europe the legitimate business credit of the South 
 Atlantic and Valley States by defending the integrity of honest operations 
 against unfounded prejudice; by furnishing correct infori on about 
 public and private enterprise; by piv I adoption of immature 
 
 undertakings by exposing adventurous schemes and impostures, and by 
 promoting greater personal intercourse between the two peoples. 
 
 In conversation with the Directors I found that they had 
 fixed upon the United States as, after all, the safest in which 
 to invest British capital, and I need not tell you that the 
 explosion in regard to Turkish securities has given extraor- 
 dinary emphasis to their mission. At a moderate calcula- 
 tion there are now in London from six hundred million 
 to eight hundred million dollars in gold upon which 
 literally no interest is paid, and which needs only assurance 
 of security to induce its investment at moderate rates. This 
 Mississippi Valley Society proposes to examine and report 
 upon the resources of the entire Mississippi Valley by 
 means of deputations to be sent out by the parent office 
 during the summer and autumn of 1876. The chairman 
 of the Executive Committee, Mr. N. V. Squarey, is an ex- 
 perienced traveller, having visited nearly all the countries 
 on the globe, including the United States, and it was very 
 interesting to hear him give his reasons why the money of 
 the English could, after all that has happened in our coun- 
 try, be more profitably trusted with us than with any other 
 nation in the world. Mr. Crossley, the president, has only 
 lately returned from America with the same impressions. 
 As yet they have not selected the branches with which 
 they intend to correspond and co-operate, but the scheme 
 of their deputations is comprehensive and shows the earn- 
 estness of the undertaking. There are six committees — 
 one on real-estate loans, one on mining and mineral invest- 
 ments, one on public-railway and other corporate securities, 
 one on laws regulating investments, one on agriculture and 
 immigration, and one on direct trade with Europe. The 
 o 27 
 
3 J 4 
 
 EV 'R OPE. IX FIXANCIAL JXSECCRITY. 
 
 first deputation, which starts from New York and Philadel- 
 phia on the 15th of July, 1876, for purposes of exploration, 
 will consist of not less than fifty nor more than one hun- 
 dred members. The second, same number, will start from 
 the same cities on the 15th of August, 1876; the third, 
 same number, will start from the same cities, September 
 15, 1S76; the fourth, October 15, 1876; the fifth, Novem- 
 ber 15, 1876. Each deputation will occupy about thirty 
 days, and the American cities and towns at which each is 
 to stop and the days they are to remain are marked out 
 on the printed circular. 
 
 There have been so many schemes of every description 
 intended to divert British capital to America, many of 
 them failures and some of them impostures, that the project 
 I now have the honor to explain deserves from its high 
 respectability the serious attention of our people, and with- 
 out any more words I commend the matter to them. Mr. 
 Holton, himself a cautious, prosperous man of business, 
 has taken great pains to ascertain the personal and financial 
 character of the members of this organization, and what I 
 have written here meets his full approbation. 
 
 London, October, 1875. 
 
 LXXIV. 
 
 European Financial Insecurity. — Atlantic Cable Tariff. — Restaurant Prices. 
 
 It is not gracious to utilize the axiom that " it is an ill 
 wind that blows nobody any good," but certainly the last 
 financial calamity that has befallen Great Britain, and largely 
 France and the Continent, awakens a general comment in 
 regard to the money securities of the United States. Men 
 everywhere contrast the hopeless bankruptcy of the Turks 
 
EUROPEAN FINANCIAL INSECURITY. 315 
 
 with the conceded vitality of the Americans. The great 
 error seems to have been that the English and French people 
 were tempted to invest in Turkish bonds by high and un- 
 natural rates of interest, s >me of them receiving as much 
 as eighteen per cent. Here, as in all similar cases, ruin 
 has been the result. The sad part of this case is that under 
 the belief, growing out of the political protection extended 
 over Turkey by the British and other great powers, many 
 persons in humble circumstances and others with fixed in- 
 comes, never thinking that the day of settlement must 
 come to nations as well as to men, and believing that where 
 the interest, however large, is regularly paid upon a debt 
 steadily increasing, there is no need to look to the pay- 
 ment of the debt itself, have thrown their little all into the 
 vortex and have come to grief. To give you some idea of 
 the statistics of this Turkish debt, which you will not fail 
 to contrast with the figures of our own steadily-reducing 
 national obligations, by the act repudiating half the in- 
 terest of this debt the Turkish Government will save six 
 million pounds annually, while England alone loses about 
 eight millions of dollars a year, The result is that the 
 English and French papers are crying out for a protec- 
 torate over the Sultan. Some propose that the whole ma- 
 chinery of Turkish government shall be taken in charge 
 by the Great Powers, and others allege that Turkey should 
 be blotted from the map of nations and divided among 
 these powers. 
 
 Turn now to another Europ:an country: Contrast the 
 obligations and resources of Spain with those of the United 
 States. In 1872 the consolidated debt of Spain was two 
 hundred and ninety-seven millions three hundred and 
 forty-three thousand pounds sterling. It is now known to 
 exceed five hundred and thirty million pounds sterling, 
 or over two billions six hundred and fifty millions of 
 dollars. As late as April last the Spanish Secretary of 
 
316 EUROPEAN FINANCIAL INSECURITY. 
 
 War declared that the war expenses would absorb the whole 
 revenue of the country, leaving absolutely nothing for the 
 other branches of the administration. The productive 
 powers of Spain are paralyzed by the interruption of com- 
 munication, the withdrawal of laborers from useful employ- 
 ment, and the treading down of wealth by contending 
 armies. Not to speak of the utterly impoverished condi- 
 tion of many of the South American nations in which 
 England has largely invested, it is not wonderful that cap- 
 ital is looking steadily across the Atlantic, and that Amer- 
 ican securities are once more accepted as the safest and 
 most profitable. In this connection let me again direct 
 you to the International Chamber of Commerce and the 
 Mississippi Valley Society. 
 
 A significant article in the London Times comments upon 
 a recent speech of Sir Stafford Northcote, Chancellor of 
 the Exchequer, and that of Mr. Grant Duff, president of 
 the Economy and Trade section of the Social Congress at 
 Brighton. Both of these distinguished authorities freely 
 admit the rapid growth of the protection sentiment on the 
 Continent, and the increasing embarrassments of the manu- 
 facturers of Great Britain in consequence of the system of 
 free trade under the financial policy of this Empire. These 
 points cannot be too carefully considered by American 
 statesmen, nor must the fact that discussion on this point 
 has been awakened in Europe by voluntary action, and not 
 in consequence of English opposition to protection in 
 America, be left out of account. Now more than ever is 
 it essential that all free-traders and protectionists should 
 be represented next year at the Centennial Exposition. 
 While they are discussing the subject with so much sincer- 
 ity in Europe, they cannot certainly object to the honorable 
 controversy which must result from a contrast with Amer- 
 ican manufactures and arts under the revenue system of the 
 United States. If parties in England and throughout the 
 
ATLANTIC CABLE TARIFF. 
 
 3 r 7 
 
 Continent which have insisted that free trade is not only 
 the necessary condition of commerce, but that it is the 
 essential means of universal comfort to the laboring classes, 
 now openly divide on this question — and England herself 
 freely confesses her alarm at the injuries inflicted upon her 
 national interests by this much-boasted theory — how much 
 allowance ought we not to make for differences of opinion 
 on the same subject in a new country like the United 
 States ? 
 
 I see that the French steamer France, which left Havre 
 for New York on the 25th of September, arrived safely at 
 the latter port. She had on board the new panorama of 
 the Siege of Paris, contracted and paid for by Mr. E. T. 
 Dobbins and his Philadelphia associates, who intend to 
 exhibit it in the iron building known as the Coliseum, in 
 New York. After it has been seen there, the building and 
 the panorama will be transferred to Philadelphia in time for 
 the Centennial Exhibition. Great credit is due to Dr. 
 Leonard R. Koecker, of Philadelphia, who was delegated 
 by the American owners of the panorama to see to its 
 speedy execution and transportation from France. He 
 arrived in time, and amended to his duties, and with so 
 much assiduity and energy that the contractors were enabled 
 to comply with their obligations, and the good ship, to- 
 gether with the chief artist and his family, was sent forward 
 with its precious freight on the day fixed in the agreement. 
 • There is a deep and growing hostility in England, and 
 I am not surprised to see that it is spreading throughout 
 the United States, in consequence of the over-prompt 
 action of the Anglo-American Telegraph Company in 
 restoring the tariff on telt grams between the United States 
 and England to four shillings per word immediately after 
 the accident by which the new Direct Cable was severed 
 on the American side. This was simply quadrupling their 
 fares, putting them up from one to four shillings a word in 
 
 27* 
 
3'S 
 
 RESTAURANT PRICES. 
 
 consequence of this accident. So powerful has this Anglo- 
 American monopoly become that many of the newspapers 
 confess that, with its ability to break down all new-comers 
 and force them to hand over their cable to them, no 
 more capital can be raised to lay another cable. It remains 
 to be seen whether this assumption is true. The intima- 
 tion that the Direct Cable can never be repaired,* and that 
 every effort will be made to prevent its reconstruction, so 
 that the directors of the old company may share the ex- 
 traordinary profits they have been realizing in consequence 
 of the complete control of the market, will undoubtedly 
 increase the popular feeling against them, and compel 
 another line, even if they should be powerful enough to 
 defeat the noble efforts of Mr. Siemens and his associates 
 to restore the broken link of the Direct Cable. 
 
 I have been giving a little attention to the prices charged 
 by some of the best restaurants in London, in view of a 
 statement which excites great satisfaction throughout Europe 
 that there are to be several large eating-houses on the Eu- 
 ropean plan within or near the Centennial Grounds next 
 year. When I repeat to you that I am constantly receiving 
 intelligence from all parts of Great Britain and the Con- 
 tinent that great numbers of strangers will visit us next 
 year, you will understand how anxious they are in regard to 
 their accommodations when they arrive. These people are 
 so accustomed to moderate charges for good living, that it 
 requires considerable ingenuity to convince them that com- 
 petition in the United States is as certain to result advanta- 
 geously as it does in Europe. Five shillings, or a dollar and 
 a quarter in gold, secures for you a capital dinner without 
 wine at Verrey's, on Regent Street. I have known two per- 
 sons to dine well for five shillings at the Cafe Royal, also 
 
 * This intimation, in which the wish was probably master of the thought t 
 turned out to be incorrect. 
 
STONEHENGE. 
 
 3*9 
 
 on Regent Street, and Blanchard's Beak Street restaurant 
 supplies meals at the following rates : With soup or fish, 
 sixty-two and a half cents; with soup and fish, seventy-five 
 cents. Without soup or fish you obtain for two shillings 
 (fifty cents) ham croquettes, curried chicken, potatoes, 
 roast beef, roast mutton, ham and beans, cheese, and bread 
 and butter, and for sixpence extra boiled fowl. A single 
 dish of mayonnaise of chicken costs seventy-five cents; a 
 chop, including vegetables and cheese, one shilling and 
 sixpence (thirty-seven and a half cents) ; a steak, with 
 vegetables and cheese, fifty cents. Then there are dinners 
 for eighty-seven and a half cents, with soup, fish, fruit, and 
 sweets; then dinners for one dollar and twenty-five cents, 
 with more elaborate courses. If you order dinners a la 
 carte it is more expensive. Game, lobster, real turtle soup, 
 if ordered, of course increase the price of the dinner; but 
 nothing can excel the meals in the quality of cooking and 
 in the generous supply that you receive for from fifty to 
 seventy-five cents. 
 London, October, 1875. 
 
 LXXV. 
 
 Stonehenge. — Old and New Sarum. 
 
 The stranger who visits the city of Salisbury, in the 
 county of Wilts, eighty-two miles southwest from London, 
 must be immediately captivated by the exquisite quiet and 
 loveliness of the place. It is not the seat of commerce, 
 but rather of tradition — a word far more expressive than 
 "antiquity" — from which one traces the decay of prim- 
 itive manners and customs, the growth of what is known 
 
3 2 ° 
 
 STONEHENGE. 
 
 as mediaeval civilization, the overthrow of an ancient re- 
 ligion, and the successive conquests by a new order of 
 things typified in the present establishment, "the Church 
 of England." On this spot we have a dim conception of 
 ages so long ago that their stony monuments still excite 
 discussion over their origin and objects. Here are the 
 rude beginnings of government — Pagan, Roman, Danish, 
 Saxon, and Norman. Here, also, we honor as we wonder 
 at the superb creations of the original Catholic Church, 
 and, finally, the sequestration of all its great temples under 
 a successive and more successful autonomy. 
 
 There has been so much curiosity in America about 
 Stonehenge that a few words in reference to it may be in- 
 teresting to my readers. This mystical monument is sit- 
 uated about seven miles north of Salisbury, crowning the 
 memorable Salisbury Plain referred to more than once in 
 Shakspeare, and approached, until you come to the Plain 
 itself, through a country of romantic scenery and refined 
 cultivation ; in fact, a region in which the wealth of modern 
 England is displayed in handsome villas, cosy little hamlets, 
 broad and emerald-green fields, and that peculiar silence 
 which, in this little island, supplies a strange contrast to 
 its overcrowded populace. Nothing impresses me more, 
 as I reflect upon the twenty millions of people in England 
 alone, than the evident absence of inhabitants until you 
 reach the busy cities. But the solitude of the rural dis- 
 tricts is explained by the accumulation of the soil in the 
 hands of a comparatively small number of families. 
 
 To return to Stonehenge — a mystery not less inscrutable 
 than the Pyramids, and often compared to them. Some 
 of the historians call these strange remains a mysterious 
 temple, which originally consisted of two circles and two 
 ovals. The outward circle is about three hundred feet in 
 circumference, composed of huge, upright stones bearing 
 others placed horizontally on their tops. These horizontal 
 
STONEHENGE. 321 
 
 stones touch each other, and form a continuous circular 
 crowned arch. Irregular in form, they bear marks of 
 having been wrought with tools. There were originally 
 thirty uprights and as many imposts. Of the former seven- 
 teen are still standing ; of the latter only six. The uprights 
 are about sixteen feet high and eighteen feet in circum- 
 ference, of a quality of hard sandstone, which must have 
 been carried from a point at least seventeen miles from the 
 spot on which they stand. At the distance of between 
 eight and nine feet from the outer circle is the inner circle, 
 composed of similar stones irregular in shape, bearing no 
 marks of ever having been wrought. Of this circle, con- 
 taining originally forty stones, the traces of twenty only 
 remain. The sanctum, which is the most imposing part 
 of the structure, consists of two ovals, formed of five pair 
 of other stones, or two large upright stones, with a third 
 laid over them. They rise gradually from east to west. 
 The first on your left hand, as you stand with your back to 
 it, is sixteen feet three inches high ; the next seventeen 
 feet two inches high, and the central one twenty-one feet 
 six inches. One of the uprights of this grand central 
 group has fallen, and is broken into two pieces, together 
 measuring twenty-six feet three inches. The other upright 
 is nine feet out of the perpendicular, and is the most 
 striking object in the group. 
 
 Stonehenge overlooks Salisbury, a, plain ridge on ridge, 
 which leads the eye onward to the bolder hills of the ex- 
 treme distance. Although civilization is trenching upon 
 it, it still retains the aspect of a desert solitude. The date, 
 origin, and uses of this peculiar memorial are unknown to 
 the most critical antiquarians. But we have Stonehenge 
 restored, resembling an ancient circular British temple, 
 which it is believed to have been, with strong, upright 
 columns, overlaid with a heavy stone entablature, and a 
 main entrance or gate, of a larger, although of the same 
 o* 
 
322 
 
 OLD AND NEW SARUM. 
 
 kind. The accepted theory is that within this stony circle 
 the religious ceremonies of the Druids were performed, and 
 this speculation is sustained by the fact that the tenets of 
 Druidism in early Britain were coeval with its original in- 
 habitants. A similarity is traced between these tenets and 
 those of the Brahmins of India, the Magi of Persia, and 
 the Chaldeans of Assyria. The earliest published notice 
 of Stonehenge was in the ninth century, by Nennius, who 
 narrates the particulars of the murder of four hundred and 
 sixty British noblemen at a conference between King Vorti- 
 gern and Hengist, in the latter part of the fifth century, 
 at or near the spot on which Stonehenge is placed, and 
 attributes the monument to the surviving Britons, who thus 
 endeavored to perpetuate the tragedy. But nearly all other 
 writers are at a loss to devise why such a work should have 
 been raised. One insists that supernatural agency was 
 called in to remove the stones from Kildare in Ireland : 
 another, that the monument was raised by the Britons to 
 the memory of Aurelius Ambrosius ; while John Aubrey 
 attributes the origin to the Britons prior to the Roman 
 invasion. Still, Stonehenge is connected with the primi- 
 tive form of worship, which appears to have been coexten- 
 sive with the migration of the human race ; a form of 
 worship which existed among all the nations of antiquity, 
 and was transmitted to mediaeval times, still rampant as in 
 the worship of Siva at Benares, or lingering in the wearing 
 of amulets and the like, as in Italy at the present day. 
 Men of science have written huge volumes upon Stone- 
 henge, and poets have sung its mysteries, while grave and 
 earnest archaeological disputations have arisen among its 
 • ruins without settling upon any definite idea of its origin. 
 As you approach and leave Salisbury, by rail, and as you 
 ride out to and from Stonehenge, another piece of antiquity, 
 not so inscrutable, is Old Sarum, described in a favorite 
 Salisbury ballad, by Dr. Pope: 
 
OLD AND NEW SARUM. 323 
 
 " Old Sarum was built on a dry, barren hill, 
 A great many years ago ; 
 'Twas a Roman town of strength and renown, 
 As its stately ruins show." 
 
 It is a combination of deserted mounds elevated above 
 the plain, below a once flourishing and populous city, now 
 standing out upon the wide landscape like some mysterious 
 formation in the wild regions of the Rocky Mountains. 
 Continuous inquiries have produced a reasonable history 
 of Old Sarum, and the study of it proves equally the an- 
 tiquity of Great Britain and the repeated terrible struggles of 
 its primitive and later populations before reaching its pres- 
 ent unparalleled civilization. The accepted account is that 
 Old Sarum was wrested from the Britons during the reign 
 of the Emperor Claudius, when his general, Vespasian, 
 captured twenty British towns and subdued two powerful 
 nations. Its importance as a subsequent Roman station 
 may be conjectured from the fact that six Roman roads 
 radiated from it. After the expulsion of the Romans Old 
 Sarum becomes more familiar to the antiquary, and grad- 
 ually, as these half- Pagan forces were compelled to retire, 
 we trace the growth of the works of the Church of Rome 
 in Great Britain. In the early part of the eighth century, 
 Iva, King of the West Saxons, endowed the Church of St. 
 Martin's in this vicinity. In 871 the outer entrenchment 
 is supposed to have been added by Alfred the Great imme- 
 diately after his accession to the throne, and within a month 
 "after his great battle with the Danes at Wilton. 
 
 After the successful Norman invasion all the States of 
 the Kingdom were summoned to Old Sarum to do homage 
 to William the Conqueror, and to submit their lands to the 
 military tenure. Successive councils, religious and polit- 
 ical, were held here. Royal Courts gave dignity and 
 power to the place, and in the twelfth century the prelates 
 and the barons of the realm came to do honor to the mon- 
 
3 2 4 
 
 OLD AND NEW SARUM. 
 
 arch. These were the days of princely pomp and church- 
 man's pride. At last, after repeated vicissitudes, battles, 
 and changes of government, the site of the new cathedral 
 at Salisbury or New Sarum was laid April 28, 1220, and 
 with the growth of that magnificent Roman Catholic edi- 
 fice began the decay of Old Sarum, the Saxon, and the rise 
 of the Norman rival city, so that now while Salisbury is 
 brilliant in all the comforts of modern times, nothing is left 
 of the primeval castle and court but a deserted mound and a 
 ghastly ruin, at once a surprise to the passing traveller and 
 a source of interest to the enthusiastic student. On the 
 removal of the cathedral Old Sarum rapidly decayed. The 
 besom of destruction swept over it. Tower and town fell, 
 and the materials were carried away. As the local histo- 
 rian expresses it, " Old Sarum can hardly be said to be 
 present even in the ruin of a State, for the city has been 
 removed to the valley, and the deserted hill is restored to 
 nature." Another writer says, " The Briton has driven 
 his war-car down its sides ; the Roman has waved his Im- 
 perial truncheon from its summit ; the invading Saxon has 
 planted his dragon standard on its top; the avenging Dane 
 has rolled the blazing tide of war at its feet, and here Wil- 
 liam, the conqueror of England, received the kneeling 
 homage of an assembled kingdom." It looks now like 
 some vast mausoleum reared only to cover and commemo- 
 rate the dead. 
 
 In the fourteenth century King Edward the Third 
 granted Old Sarum the right, as a then populous borough, 
 to send two members to Parliament. This privilege con- 
 tinued to be exercised long after the borough had fallen 
 into decay and utter ruin, and when only two or three 
 nominal burgesses could be found to vote. By the Reform 
 Bill of 1832 this strange condition of affairs was abolished. 
 
 I confess, as we entered what is called " the close," 
 which surrounds the Cathedral, with its smooth, lawn-like 
 
OLD AND NEW SARUM. 
 
 325 
 
 expanse of ever-green turf, intersected with gravelled walks, 
 planted with rows and avenues of fine trees, flanked on the 
 outer square by English residences, most of them occupied 
 by the canons of the Church, I did not wonder at the in- 
 dignation with which the faithful Roman Catholic recalls 
 the origin of these antiquated splendors, and mourns, like 
 the Hebrew, over his lost Jerusalem. It cannot be con- 
 cealed that to these earlier Christians, the successors and 
 inheritors, and, let us add, the improvers of the Pagan 
 Romans, Great Britain is indebted for every one of the 
 ancient architectural glories of her Established Church. 
 And although no praise can be too strong to do honor to 
 the generosity and diligence with which what is left of the 
 Roman Catholic temple is repaired and restored, still the 
 candid observer will readily forgive the bitter sincerity of 
 the remark attributed to Cardinal Manning when he was 
 told how admirably the old Catholic churches were being 
 restored by the authorities of the Established Church: 
 "Yes, I hear they are being restored, but I have yet to 
 hear that they are being returned to their real owners." 
 You read history in these stony monuments, and, however 
 republican you may be, you cannot fail to feel that to the 
 aristocracy, clerical and political, of the ages gone by, 
 modern civilization is indebted for the many exquisite 
 originals which adorn its towns and cities. It took thirty- 
 eight years to complete the Cathedral of Salisbury, at the 
 comparatively moderate expense of forty thousand marks, 
 or about one hundred and thirty thousand dollars, when 
 the effigies of money were four or five times more valuable 
 than they are to-day. It was solemnly dedicated in the thir- 
 teenth century by the Archbishopof Canterbury, in the pres- 
 ence of the King and Queen, and it was passed over under 
 the iron rule of King Henry VIII. early in the sixteenth 
 century ; so that the fact remains that whatever of beauty 
 belongs to it is certainly not to be credited to the present 
 
 28 
 
326 OLD AND NEW SARUM. 
 
 religious institution. An American gentleman, when he 
 first saw the severe grandeur, so to speak, and the impress- 
 ive symmetry of the Cathedral, broke out with the expres- 
 sion : " It is the eloquence of art in stone ; it is an oration 
 by Daniel Webster on Christianity; it is human genius in 
 a Gothic flower." 
 
 The singular uniformity of its design and style, the har- 
 mony of its several parts, the lightness and elegance, invest 
 it with a peculiar charm ; while the graceful elevation of its 
 tower seems to make it worthy of the praise of the English- 
 man that it is the loftiest and loveliest spire in the King- 
 dom. It is admitted to be the only cathedral church erected 
 before the Reformation without any intermixture of styles, 
 and is the first instance of pure unmixed Gothic in Eng- 
 land. It is built in the form of a double or archiepiscopal 
 cross, extending in its extreme dimensions, from west to 
 east, four hundred and seventy-three feet, and from north 
 to south two hundred and twenty-nine feet seven inches; 
 while from the intersection of the grand cross springs 
 
 The lessening shaft of that aerial spire 
 
 to the astonishing height of four hundred feet from the 
 ground. I will not carry you through the whole structure 
 — its transepts, its aisles, its north porch, its west front, its 
 tier of angels, its tier of Old Testament patriarchs and 
 prophets, the nave, the organ, the choir, the chantry chapel, 
 the altar-piece, the lady chapel, the library, the muniment- 
 room, the chapter-house, nor the cloisters. A few words 
 in regard to the expense of the restoration of this mag- 
 nificent cathedral, which was begun in 1863, and which 
 will cost, before it is entirely finished, forty thousand 
 pounds, or two hundred thousand dollars. The assiduity, 
 the enthusiasm, the genius of the ecclesiastical and literary 
 people interested in its restoration are in themselves a lib- 
 eral education, while the proud respect of the surrounding 
 
OLD AND NEW SARUM. 
 
 3 2 7 
 
 population of Wiltshire, who look upon their cathedral 
 with as much — aye, and even far more — reverence as that 
 with which Philadelphians regard Independence Hall, are 
 so many proofs of the effect of religious architecture upon 
 every condition of life. Indeed, the Salisbury Cathedral 
 may be said to refine the whole district ; and while there 
 is much in the opposition of the Dissenters to the ac- 
 knowledged expenditures and extravagance, and, perhaps, 
 the favoritism of the Established Church, yet I think it 
 may be fairly said that even the Dissenters of Salisbury 
 and Wiltshire never see the Cathedral without a throb of 
 pleasure or of pride. 
 
 In happy illustration of these thoughts it is now proper 
 that I should refer to the gentleman to whom our party, all 
 of them Americans, were indebted for this specially agree- 
 able visit, not the less agreeable because the weather has 
 been a fair specimen of an English October — alternate rain 
 and sun, none of the excessive heats we sometimes find at 
 home at this season, and serving by its curious changes of 
 climate to relieve and set off the singular beauties of an 
 English landscape. I refer to Mr. William Blackmore, of 
 Salisbury, well known in the United States, especially in 
 our Western Territories, where he is the owner of large 
 tracts of land, and particularly for his intelligent and per- 
 severing researches into the early history of the family of 
 William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania. It is easy to 
 see that Mr. Blackmore, the descendant of an old Wiltshire 
 family, has caught the inspiration of the place. He and 
 his fathers have not lived in the vicinity of Old Sarum and 
 Stonehenge and Salisbury Cathedral without imbibing much 
 of their peculiar fascinations. Prosperous in themselves, 
 largely identified with the progress of the region, closely 
 connected with many of the earlier and later political 
 struggles and generally on the Liberal side, the large wealth 
 of Mr. Blackmore is distributed in characteristic harmony 
 
328 
 
 OLD AND NEW SARUM. 
 
 with his teachings. He has travelled far and wide, and 
 seems to have fixed his affections, after his own country, in 
 Western America. But even as he extends his literary re- 
 searches into America he has built for himself a monument 
 in the Blackmore Museum at Salisbury, a repository not 
 alone of valuable relics of the traditions and histories 
 of his own native surroundings, but of everything relating 
 to the past ages, as these are gathered in England and in 
 far distant countries. The "Literature of the Blackmore 
 Museum," printed under his own direction, and the Guide 
 to that Museum, edited with very great ability by the cu- 
 rator, Mr. Edward T. Stevens, are in themselves invaluable 
 contributions to every archaeological collection. 
 
 You pass through this Museum surprised at the variety 
 and multiplicity of the specimens — an archaeological col- 
 lege in stone, bronze, flint, and metallurgy, gathered from 
 every country and every aboriginal tribe — and not less at 
 the intelligent elegance with which they are severally 
 organized and described. It is an example after which 
 many other museums might usefully copy. The museum 
 is opened three times a week gratuitously to the public ; 
 the organization was collected and the whole management 
 is paid by himself, and he is every hour adding to the un- 
 equalled depository. I could not help admiring the unsel- 
 fish enterprise of an English gentleman who could so 
 usefully employ his large fortune at his own home, and at 
 the same time devote himself to a diligent study of the 
 institutions of the United States. My friend Mr. C. D. 
 Poston, well known in Philadelphia, several years ago a 
 delegate in Congress from Arizona, and now resident in 
 London, describes the Blackmore Museum as follows: 
 
 " The Blackmore Museum, at Salisbury, was founded by Mr. William 
 Blackmore, a native of that city, in the year 1864, and dedicated to the 
 public, for the purpose of affording them an opportunity of studying the 
 habits, customs, and manners of past ages of mankind, as evidenced by 
 
OLD AND NEW SAKUM. 
 
 3 2 9 
 
 the relics, implements, and utensils they have left behind them, and thus 
 be able to compare their condition with the generations of men who have 
 preceded them, so that they can form a correct judgment as to the ascend- 
 ing or descending scale of civilization. The illustrations of the Stone Age 
 are probably more complete in the Blackmore Museum than at any other 
 place in the world, and some idea of their extent may be gathered from the 
 fact that a description of them by Mr. Stevens, one of the trustees of the 
 museum, fills a volume of six hundred pages, called ' Flint Chips.' It 
 must have been a rude age in the history of man when all the cutting, saw- 
 ing, grinding, drilling, and dressing was done with stone implements ; but 
 here in this museum are evidences of the fact, arranged and classified in 
 such a way as to present a stone chronology showing the improvements of 
 man in this primitive struggle with nature and reaching up to the age of 
 bronze. The advantage of this chronological stone history is its inde- 
 structibility, and its reading shows the gradual improvement of man from 
 a mere animal struggling with nature for subsistence, and with his fellows 
 for mastery, until our own age guides the steamship, speeds the railway, 
 and writes with the lightning. In the museum alluded to the gradual 
 advancement is read by direct steps upward and onward from the flint 
 chips of the primitive man to the highly-polished steel instruments of 
 surgery made insuch perfection at the present day. The benefits accruing 
 to the youth of our country towns from local museums and reading-rooms 
 is incalculable, and will germinate thoughts which might not fructify in the 
 confusion of great cities. Every county town in England might have a 
 museum of local curiosities and objects of foreign interest, as every county 
 possesses the nucleus of such an institution, and the representatives of every 
 county in England in foreign lands would gladly contribute the benefit of 
 his researches to a museum at home if such existed. It only needs in each 
 county some enterprising and liberal mind to organize the machinery for 
 gathering the scattered history of the struggle which mankind have made 
 to leave some evidences of their existence. Even in this remarkable old 
 town of Salisbury the progress of man may be traced with historical 
 accuracy for a period of two thousand years. There are the ruins of Old 
 Sarum, which was a fortified city before the Roman invasion, connecting 
 that southern stronghold with other Roman fortresses, with the Roman 
 road, and the race-course of Vespasian. And there is the Salisbury of 
 to-day, with the railway passing through it, connecting London with the 
 
 After enjoying the graceful and generous hospitalities of 
 our English host and his intelligent family, including a 
 special and delightful entertainment at the old White Hart 
 Inn, in Salisbury (which I beg to commend to all Amer- 
 
 28* 
 
33° 
 
 ACCESSION OF ITALY TO THE CENTENNIAL. 
 
 icans who may be attracted to this beautiful spot), we left 
 Mr. Blackmore and his relations with many grateful thanks, 
 but not before I have exacted from him the promise that 
 during the Centennial year he will read us a paper, which 
 I know he is carefully preparing, upon the antecedents of 
 William Penn. 
 
 London, October, 1875. 
 
 LXXVI. 
 
 Accession of Italy to the Centennial. — The Bartholdi Monument. 
 
 Italy is gracefully coming to the front. A late number 
 of the influential journal, II Fanfulla, of Rome, publishes 
 the following in regard to the Philadelphia Exhibition : 
 
 The Minister of Agriculture and Commerce on his journey through 
 Florence met there Signor Padovani, the president of the Executive Com- 
 mittee for the Philadelphia Exhibition, and the result of their interview has 
 been the definite settlement of a general agency which is to represent the 
 Government of Italy at the Centennial .Exhibition. 
 
 " In order not to increase the budget of Italian expenses the Italian 
 Cabinet has decided to select the Commissioners to represent it on that 
 august occasion from among the Italians residing in the United States." 
 
 Signor Guiseppe d'Assi, president of the Voluntary 
 Committee of Artists at Milan, has issued an eloquent ad- 
 dress to the people of Italy, from which I have had the 
 following translated : 
 
 The united work of all, ordered by special committees, will surely lead 
 to favorable results and aid the Government in giving practical help to the 
 Exhibition. There is no nobler aim than the fraternal union of nations in 
 peace and industry. Let us all unite to attain that object. On account 
 
THE BARTHOLDI MONUMENT. 
 
 33 1 
 
 of past mournful times Italy will not be able to compete in industrial pro- 
 ducts with those nations which have preceded her in the possession of 
 liberty, but Italy can and must be represented at the Centennial Exhibi- 
 tion. The people of the United States, already so far advanced in the waj 
 of progress, say of their Centenary, " We will teach something and learn 
 much," and Italy will move under the auspices of her newly-acquired 
 liberty in a firm desire to acquire, with instruction and industry, that dej 
 of advancement to which she is entitled. 
 
 The more embarrassing our financial situation the harder must we work 
 to better our condition by extending our commerce and increasing our 
 exports. A favorable opportunity presents itself in the International Ex- 
 hibition at Philadelphia. Can Italy afford to absent herself upon an 
 occasion which will be so favorable to her interests ? Italy is not the land 
 of the dead. The Chamber of Commerce, agrarian committees, associa- 
 tions to promote art, science, or agriculture, and especially the industrial 
 societies, should raise subscriptions and follow the noble example of Baron 
 Eugene Cantoni, who has subscribed five thousand Italian pounds. Various 
 products of our land are sought after, particularly by North America, 
 where they arrive second and even third hand on account of lack of direct 
 commercial intercourse, leaving the principal profits to foreign interme- 
 diaries. In arts it is certainly no presumption to affirm that we can hold 
 the field. with honor, and equal, if not surpass, other nations. The nation 
 which boasts a Washington, a Franklin, a Jefferson, a^ Lincoln, and a Tea- 
 body, together with many other great men, should be studied closely. If 
 an energetic initiative be taken by individual effort, neither Parliament nor 
 Government can remain indifferent to the cause. Every nation will be rep- 
 resented, for each Government has voted munificently the required funds. 
 Let then all men whose hearts beat for Italy's welfare do all in their power 
 to have her represented in that great assembly of nations to be convocated 
 for' the emulation of human ingenuity and for instruction, and through 
 these to promote peace and liberty. 
 
 As another proof of the persevering energies of our friends 
 in France, I subjoin the address of the Franco-American 
 Union Committee appointed to take in charge the prepara- 
 tions for the commemorative bronze monument on Bed- 
 loe's Island, in the harbor of New York, designed and in 
 the course of execution by Major Auguste Bartholdi, the 
 foundation-stone of which it is supposed will be laid during 
 the Centennial ceremonies : 
 
33 2 
 
 THE BARTHOLDI MONUMENT. 
 
 Union Franco-America ink. 
 
 Subscription for the Building of a Commemorative Monument of the Cen- 
 tennial Anniversary of United States Independence, Erected in Remem- 
 brance of the Ancient Friendship of France and America by the Friends 
 of both Nations. 
 
 " America will very soon celebrate the Centennial Anniversary of her 
 Independence. This date marks an epoch in human history; to the New 
 World it records its sublime work, the foundation of the grand Republic ; 
 to France, one of the most honorable pages of her history. 
 
 " We believe, as well as our friends of the United States, that it affords 
 a solemn occasion to unite France and America in a common manifesta- 
 tion. Notwithstanding the long past time, the United States like to recall 
 to mind an ancient fraternity in arms ; the name of France is always hon- 
 ored by them. The great event, which will be performed 4th of July, 
 1876, permits us to celebrate with our American friends the old and sincere 
 friendship which so long united both nations. 
 
 " The New World is preparing to give to this great festival an extraor- 
 dinary splendor; some friends of the United States thought that the spirit 
 of France should show itself in a cordial and striking manner. A French 
 artist rendered that idea in a project worthy of its purpose and which has 
 secured all approbations ; in going to America he came to an understand- 
 ing with our friends and prepared all the means of execution. 
 
 "The question is to elevate in commemoration of the glorious anniver- 
 sary an exceptional monument. In the middle of New York harbor, on a 
 little island belonging to the Union, facing Long Island, where the first 
 blood was shed for independence, will be raised a colossal statue, showing 
 its grand figure in the space, horizoned by the large cities of New York, 
 Jersey City, and Brooklyn. At the entrance of that vast continent, full 
 of new life, where ships meet from all parts of the world, it will look as 
 springing up from the bosom of the deep, representing Liberty enlighten- 
 ing the World. At night a luminous aureola projected from the head will 
 radiate on the far-flowing waves of the ocean. 
 
 " The monument will be erected by both nations, associated in this fra- 
 ternal achievement as they were formerly to carry out the independence. 
 We shall amicably offer our American friends the statue, and they on their 
 side will meet the expenses of the pedestal. 
 
 "Thus shall we consolidate by an eternal remembrance the friendship 
 sealed by the blood of both people's forefathers. 
 
 " Let us unite to celebrate this fete of modern people: We must give 
 to this manifestation the fervor which it requires in order to equal the ever- 
 memorable past events. Let each one bring his obole ; however trifling 
 each person's offering may be, it will be received with thanks. Let the 
 number of subscribers show the sentiments of France. 
 
MR. P. CUNLIFFE OWEN'S SUGGESTION. 
 
 333 
 
 " We shall organize our lists in volumes, which will be offered to our 
 American friends. 
 
 " The members of the committee, grateful for the friendship with which 
 they have been honored in America, assume the direction of the move- 
 ment ; the example will be nobly followed on the other side of the ocean. 
 We hope to meet with sympathetic adhesions everywhere. 
 
 "LE COMITE DE L'UNION FRANCO-AMERICAINE. 
 
 " Membres d'Honneur — Washburne, ministre plenipotentiaire desEtats- 
 Unis a Paris; M. de Noailles, ambassadeur de France a. Rome; M. de 
 Rochambeau ; Am. Bartholdi, ministre plenipotentiaire de France a Wash- 
 ington ; J. W. Forney, commissaire general des Etats-Unis en Europe. 
 
 " Ed. Laboulaye, president du Comite Directeur ; Henry Martin et 
 Dietz-Monin, vice-presidents. 
 
 " Comite — Oscar de Lafayette, Jules de Lasteyrie, Paul de Remusat, C. 
 de Tocqueville, Waddington, Cornells de With, Jean Mace, C. Serurier, 
 Wolowski, L. Simonin, V. Borie, Aug. Bartholdi. 
 
 " Caubert, commissaire delegue. 
 
 " De Lagorsse, secretaire-tresorier. 
 
 " Les Bureaux du Comite sont, 175, rue Saint-Honore, a Paris." 
 
 London, October, 1875. 
 
 LXXVII. 
 
 Mr. P. Cunliffe Owen's Centennial Suggestion for 1976. — A Curious Old 
 Volume. 
 
 A practical idea connected with the International Ex- 
 hibition, originating with Mr. P. Cunliffe Owen, deserves 
 record, so that it may not be forgotten when we come to 
 the disposition of the great edifices at the close of the Cen- 
 tennial. It is a suggestion that the permanent buildings, 
 if any are to be preserved in addition to the beautiful 
 temple dedicated exclusively to Art, should be so managed 
 that when our posterity comes to do honor to the close of 
 the second century of American civilization they will find in 
 
334 
 
 A CURIOUS OLD VOLUME. 
 
 them trophies of the hundred years which will terminate 
 July 4, 1976. In each succeeding year let us plac e in the s e — 
 permanent structures the peculiar American discovery or 
 improvement of that year in every imaginative and sub- 
 stantial production. To this end there should be no haste 
 in making the collection, and the committee to whom this 
 delicate task is to be entrusted should be appointed after 
 careful consideration. It seemed to me, when I first heard 
 this proposition, as one altogether admirable and deserving 
 serious attention. The great museums of the Old World 
 are depositaries of the long gone ages, invaluable in them- 
 selves and wholly characteristic of the growth of time; but 
 under Mr. Owen's plan we may be said to begin history 
 with the coming Centennial, and to start with our centuries, 
 making of each a separate feature of the immediate past and 
 an eloquent promise of the mysterious future. 
 
 In pursuing these reflections I am again reminded of the 
 value of our International Exhibition as the practical.-xe=__ 
 storer of history. It will quicken research in all directions. 
 He who desires to write of the days gone by will find the 
 material accumulating and ready to his hand in the vast 
 amount of matter rescued from the obscurest quarters and 
 revealed to the light of day for the first time. No spot will 
 be more compensating than the National Museum in Inde- 
 pendence Hall, and I am happy in being the medium of 
 placing in it another record of the olden time. Two days 
 ago I received a note from General Schenck enclosing to 
 me a small volume, unbound, but valuable, entitled " Eng- 
 lish Empire in America : or, A Prospect of their Majes- 
 ties' Dominion in the West Indies, namely, Newfoundland, 
 New England, New York, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Mary- 
 land, Virginia, Carolina, Bermudas, Berbuda, Anguilla, 
 Montserrat, Dominica, St. Vincent, Antego, Mevis or 
 Nevis, Saint Christopher's, Barbadoes, Jamaica. With an 
 account of the Discovery, Situation, Product, and other 
 
A CURIOUS OLD VOLUME. 335 
 
 Excellencies and Rarities of these Countries. To which is 
 prefixed a Relation of the first Discovery of the New World, 
 called America, by the Spaniards. And of the Remarkable 
 Voyages of several Englishmen to divers places therein. 
 Illustrated with maps and pictures. London : Printed for 
 Nath. Crouch at the Bell in the Poultry, near Cheapside. 
 1698." 
 
 This date is one hundred and seventy-seven years back, 
 when our country was included in the general West Indies! 
 In looking over the map or frontispiece, I find that New 
 England, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Carolina take up 
 more than two-thirds, while outside are Rhode Island, 
 "Cape Himlopen," " Roanoak Inlet," and Florida. The 
 book itself is complete, comprising one hundred and eighty- 
 eight closely-printed i6mo pages, and, although the print 
 ing is ancient, the style is good and exceedingly interest- 
 ing. It opens with the following short poem : 
 
 " As if our Old World modestly withdrew, 
 And here in private had brought forth a new, 
 Here Nature spreads her fruitful sweetness round, 
 Breathes on the air, and broods upon the ground, 
 x Here Days and Nights the only seasons be, 
 
 The Sun no climate does so gladly see. 
 When forc'd from hence to view our parts, he mourns ; 
 Takes little journeys, and makes quick returns ; 
 Nay, in this bounteous, and this blessed land, 
 The golden ore lies mixed with common sand; 
 Each downfall of a flood the mountains pour 
 From the rich bowels rolls a silver shower, 
 All lay concealed for many ages past, 
 And the best portion of the Earth was last !" 
 
 The opening chapters contain an excellent account of 
 the various voyages, English and otherwise, from Columbus 
 and Cortez to Sir Francis Drake, after which there is "A 
 Prospect of Newfoundland," chapter iii. ; "A Prospect of 
 New England," chapter iv. ; " A Prospect of New York,"" 
 chapter v.; "A Prospect of New Jersey," chapter vi. ; 
 
336 A CURIOUS OLD VOLUME. 
 
 "A Prospect of Pennsylvania," chapter vii. ; "A Pros- 
 pect of Maryland," chapter viii. ; "A Prospect of Vir- 
 ginia," chapter ix. ; "A Prospect of Carolina," chapter 
 x., succeeded by chapters devoted respectively to "Ber- 
 mudas ; or, The Summer of Islands," and to the " Caribee 
 Islands of Berbuda, Anguilla, Montserrat, Dominica, St. 
 Vincent, Antego, Mevis or Nevis, St. Christopher's, and 
 Barbadoes," and then Jamaica, closing with " A Catalogue 
 of Books Printed for Nath. Crouch, at the Bell in the Poul- 
 try, near Cheapside," the list including volumes that per- 
 haps may be still in existence, well deserving the researches 
 of the antiquary. A few of the titles may be quoted : 
 
 " England's Monarchs; or, A Relation of the most remarkable transac- 
 tions, from Julius Caesar; adorned with poems, and the picture of every 
 monarch from K. Will the Conqueror to this time, with a list of the nobil- 
 ity, etc." Price, one shilling. 
 
 " The History of the two late Kings, Charles II. and James II., and of 
 the most observable passages during their reigns." Price, one shilling. 
 
 " The History of Oliver Cromwell, L. Protector. Relating matters of 
 fact without reflection or observation." Price, one shilling. 
 
 " Historical Remarks and Observations of the Ancient and Present State 
 of London and Westminster, showing the Foundations, Walls, Gates, 
 Bridges, Churches, Rivers, Wards, etc., with the most remarkable acci- 
 dents as to Wars, Fires, Plagues, etc., for above nine hundred years past." 
 Price, one shilling. 
 
 " Admirable Curiosities, Rarities, and Wonders in England, Scotland, 
 and Ireland; or, An account of many remarkable persons and places, and 
 of the battles, sieges, earthquakes, tempests, inundations, fires, thunders, 
 murders, and other occurrences for many hundred years past." Price, one 
 shilling. 
 
 " The Unfortunate Court Favorites of England, Men and Women." 
 Price, one shilling. 
 
 " The English Empire in America" — [the book now before me]. Price, 
 one shilling. 
 
 " The English Hero ; or, Sir Francis Drake Revived." Being a full 
 account of his dangerous voyages, etc. As, i. His voyage in 1572 to 
 Nombre de Dios in the West Indies, where they saw a pile of bars of silver 
 near seventy feet long, ten feet broad, and twelve feet high. 2. His in- 
 co'mpassing the whole world in 1577. which he performed in two years 
 and ten months, gaining a vast quantity of gold and silver, etc." Price, 
 one shilling. 
 
A CURIOUS OLD VOLUME. 
 
 137 
 
 "Two Journeys to Jerusalem, being descriptions of the Holy Land, 
 Captivities of the Jews, the State of the Jews, the seventy Jewish Inter- 
 preters of the Laws of Moses; the final Extirpation of the Jews in Persia, 
 with other material." Price, one shilling. 
 
 " The History of the Nine Worthies of the World, three whereof were 
 Gentiles, three Jews, and three Christians, with accounts of their lives." 
 Price, one shilling. 
 
 " Female Excellency ; or, The Ladies' Glory. Illustrated in the lives of 
 nine famous women : Deborah, the prophetess ; the valiant Judith; Queen 
 Esther; the virtuous Susanna ; the chaste Lucretia; Boadicea, Queen of 
 Britain in the reign of Nero, with an account of the original inhabitants 
 of Great Britain; the History of Danaus and his fifty daughters, who 
 murdered their husbands in one night, etc." Price, one shilling. 
 
 " Wonderful Progress of Judgment and Mercy, discovered in above 
 three hundred memorable histories, etc." Price, one shilling. 
 
 This summary will give the general reader a foretaste of 
 the book and the class of ancient English literature to 
 which it belongs, and perhaps induce more investigations. 
 The British Museum no' doubt contains copies of some, if 
 not most of the old books referred to. In this volume 
 nearly the entire description of Pennsylvania is the letter 
 of William Penn, which I have already referred to, and is 
 found in Samuel M. Janney's Life of William Penn, run- 
 ning from page 227 to page 238. I have compared the 
 letter in the old and in the new, and they are exactly alike, 
 the sketch of Philadelphia being the same in both. 
 
 London, October, 1875. 
 
 29 
 
338 RUSSIA AND ITALY COME IN. 
 
 LXXVIII. 
 
 Russia and Italy come in. 
 
 Our International Exhibition would have been, if not 
 exactly like "Hamlet" without the Prince, at least like a 
 play with an imperfect cast of characters, if Russia and 
 Italy had stood aloof; and now that both have come in 
 with unusual emphasis, the work, so far as foreign Powers 
 are concerned, may be said to be complete. The Italians 
 are moving not only through the Government bureaux, but 
 among the guilds of art and manufacture in their various 
 cities, and this action, handsomely supplemented by the 
 co-operation of the American painters and sculptors in 
 Rome, Florence, Genoa, and Naples, will make the Italian 
 department unusually magnificent. 
 
 From what I can hear, the Russian section will be un- 
 commonly interesting, and the acceptance of the Czar, 
 while in complete harmony with our former peaceful rela- 
 tions with his great Empire, is also a complete oblivion 
 to recent differences. Mr. Boker, American minister at 
 St*. Petersburg, has contributed rare good sense and tort 
 towards securing this fortunate decision. There has long 
 been a peculiar relation between Russia and the United 
 States, and particularly between Russia and Pennsylvania. 
 The venerable William D. Lewis, still, I trust, alive and 
 surrounded by his friends in Philadelphia, occupied an 
 official position in St. Petersburg very nearly sixty years 
 ago, while our ministers at the Court of the Czar have in- 
 cluded such Pennsylva-nians as William Wilkins of Pitts- 
 burgh, James Buchanan of Lancaster, George M. Dallas 
 of Philadelphia, Simon Cameron of Dauphin, Andrew G. 
 
RUSSIA AND ITALY COME IN. 
 
 339 
 
 Curtin of Centre, Wayne MacVeagh of Chester, and now 
 George H. Boker, again of Philadelphia. 
 
 The Russian Messager Officiel has announced the names 
 of the members of the Commission which has just been 
 formed by the Minister of Finance to take steps for the par- 
 ticipation of Russia in the International Exposition at 
 Philadelphia in 1876. The President of the Commission 
 is Privy Counsellor Boutovsky, Director of the Depart- 
 ment of Commerce and Manufactures, and the members 
 are Privy Counsellor Cobeko, Acting Chancellor of the 
 Minister of Finance ; Counsellor of State Yermakon, Vice- 
 Director of the Department of Commerce and Manufac- 
 tures; Counsellor of State Vychnegradsky, Director of the 
 Technological Institute ; Counsellor of State Bielsky, re- 
 tained for special missions by the Department of Com- 
 merce and Manufactures; Counsellor of State Podobedow, 
 chief of section in the same department ; Counsellor of 
 State Iliine, professor in the Technological Institute ; Coun- 
 sellor of State Behr," retained for special missions by the 
 Minister of Finance; and College Counsellor Timiriazew, 
 chief of section in the Department of Commerce and Manu- 
 factures, i 1 1 
 
 The administration of the affairs of the Commission is 
 intrusted to M. Bielsky, who is named at the same time as 
 general commissioner of the Russian section in the Phila- 
 delphia International Exposition. 
 
 The Commission makes an appeal to the industrial asso- 
 ciations and institutions who desire to take part in the 
 Philadelphia Exposition, and begs them to address the 
 Commission, in the Department of Commerce and Manu- 
 factures, for information or assignments of right to exhibit. 
 The further steps taken by the Commission will be made 
 known through the public journals. 
 
 London, October, 1875. 
 
34° 
 
 THE SIX HUNDRED OF BALAKLAVA. 
 
 L X X I X. 
 
 The Six Hundred of Balaklava. — Tennyson's " Charge of the Light 
 Brigade," and Drayton's " Agincourt." 
 
 England is sleepless in keeping alive the popular loyalty 
 to our Centennial. Not a day passes without some new 
 effort to attract the people to her museums and galleries — 
 to her Crystal and Alexandra Palaces — her South Kensington 
 Collection — her Parks and Parades. Just now, for in- 
 stane, there are to be two banquets, one at Alexandra 
 Palace, to the surviving men, the other at Willis' Rooms, 
 to the surviving officers, who made the historic charge in 
 the Light Brigade, October 25, 1854. At the Palace one 
 shilling only will be the charge, and the anniversary will be 
 greeted as follows : 
 
 " Mr. Woodham, who has been the life and soul of the 
 whole movement, has taken care to send absent comrades 
 the wherewithal to enable them to join in the feast in spirit 
 and 'drink a cup of wine,' as the Laureate worded it, to 
 Balaklava and the brave who lie on the Black Sea shore. 
 Fabulous sums have been offered for seats at the dinner, 
 but the committee has been compelled to exercise the 
 most rigorous exclusiveness. In addition to the remnant 
 of the Light Brigade — officers and men — the foreign repre- 
 sentatives, a very limited number of guests (none of whom 
 could be passed over), the directors of Alexandra Palace, 
 in their capacity as hosts, and the irrepressible reporters, 
 nobody will be admitted to the board. The dinner will 
 be served in the large saloon where the banquet was given 
 on the occasion of the opening of the Palace last May. 
 The upper table has been reserved for the officers and 
 
THE SIX HUNDRED OF BALAKLAVA. 
 
 341 
 
 guests, a space has been set apart from which the female 
 relatives of those invited can hear the speeches, and ac- 
 commodation has been provided for the band of the Royal 
 Irish Hussars and a choir of thirty voices, who are to sup- 
 ply the musical and vocal accompaniments of the feast. 
 There will be anterooms and smoking-rooms for officers 
 and men — in short, nothing that could add to the cosiness 
 of the company has been neglected. The immense room 
 has been luxuriously carpeted and decorated, and looks 
 like an old baronial hall from the multiplicity of effigies 
 in coats of mail reared on pedestals around. There are 
 trophies of flags and arms, and shields with the regimental 
 badges on the walls, and the names of the battles in which 
 the Light Brigade has been engaged and of the fifteen 
 gallant officers who met their death at Balaklava, with 
 mottoes in French, Italian, Turkish, and Russian, are in- 
 scribed on conspicuous scrolls. Behind the chair a marble 
 group of St. George slaying the Dragon has been placed, 
 and at either side are the legends 'Agincourt, Oct. 25, 
 1415/ and 'Balaklava, Oct. 25, 1854.' The card on 
 which the bill of fare is printed is a veritable work of art. 
 Across the top there is a representation of the advance of 
 the Light Brigade in the valley, and on one flank at the 
 bottom are figures of a Lancer of the 17th and a Hussar of 
 the nth, and on the other a Russian gun with a dead 
 artilleryman beside it. Messrs. Bertram and Roberts have 
 some ingenious surprises as artistic in their way as the carte 
 in preparation, and each man is to be presented by Messrs. 
 Burt, the printers to the Palace, with an elegantly-bound 
 little volume of poetry in memory of the celebration. Nut 
 the least remarkable peculiarity connected with the en- 
 thusiasm excited by the revival is the amount of gushing 
 poetry which has been written. The committee has been 
 inundated with contributions in verse, good, bad, and in- 
 different, most of them the latter. Among the best of the 
 
 29* 
 
342 
 
 THE SIX HUNDRED OF BALAKLAVA. 
 
 poems sent are those by Mrs. R. Chandler, Mr. E. H. 
 Pember, Trumpet-Major William Smith (one of the sur- 
 vivors), and Major Compton Noake. 
 
 " The toast list has been drawn up with much care and 
 discrimination. Supplementary to the loyal toasts, which 
 have this out of the common, that her Majesty is to be 
 mentioned as Empress of Hindostan, and that his Royal 
 Highness the Prince of Wales is to be associated with the 
 colonelcy of the ioth Hussars, but few sentiments are to be 
 given. The chair will be taken by the senior officer pres- 
 ent, on whom will devolve the duty of proposing ' The 
 British Flag,' 'The Memory of the Dead,' 'Our Gallant 
 Allies,' and, the last toast of all, 'The Soldiers of the 
 Pen,' which is to be responded to by Mr. N. A. Woods, 
 the special correspondent of the Standard during the 
 Crimean War. Grace is to be said by a military chaplain 
 and sung by the choir; and when the Queen's health is 
 proposed a Royal salute will be fired. The trumpeters of 
 the 8th Hussars are to sound, in succession, the ' walk,' 
 'trot,' 'gallop,' and 'charge' before the speech of the 
 evening, which is to be made by Sir Edward Lee, in giving 
 'The Survivors of the Six Hundred.' Representatives of 
 the I Troop R. H. A. and of the five cavalry corps present 
 are to be called on to respond. Mrs. Stirling will recite 
 'The Charge of the Light Brigade;' and the only other 
 ladies whose voices will be heard at the banquet are Miss 
 Emily Mott and Miss Ellen Home, the latter of whom 
 will sing 'La Cantiniere.' Miss Mott will be heard in 
 Ciro Pinsuti's composition, 'England's Dead,' in which 
 the following appropriate verse has been interpolated : 
 
 ' Where Russia's cannon pealed 
 They lie, their bold ride o'er; 
 On Balaklava's glorious field 
 
 They sleep for evermore. 
 'Neath India's jungles thick they lie, 
 Where the palm-tree rears its head ; 
 
" CHARGE OF THE LIGHT BRIGADE." 
 
 There's not a glimmering light on high 
 But shines on England's dead.' 
 
 343 
 
 "Mr. Wilford Morgan will sing ' Come if you dare;' and 
 among the appropriate pieces of music to be performed 
 are the ' Dead March' in Saul, and the new French 
 national air 'La Marche de Roland a Roncevaux,' from 
 Mermet's opera, arranged for a military band by M. Coard, 
 chef de musique of the 31st Regiment of the French line." 
 
 And yet, while Great Britain keeps alive the patriotic 
 fires by these honors to her brave soldiers, a strange guest 
 comes from the grave to dispute the laurels of her great 
 poet Tennyson, author of the popular lyric, "The Charge 
 of the Light Brigade." In Notes and Queries for October 
 23, 1875, edited by Dr. John Doran, an article appeared 
 entitled "Agincourt," avowedly from his pen, which 
 will undoubtedly excite much discussion, and sensibly 
 diminish the fame of the Poet-Laureate, whose noble 
 " Charge" is to be recited at the Alexandra Palace. It 
 reads thus : 
 
 "On St. Crispin's day, October 25, 1415, Henry V. of 
 England, when in sore distress and difficulty, with less than 
 ten thousand men, defeated six times that number of brave, 
 stout Frenchmen, ill led. The English were suffering from 
 want of food and from disease ; but those poor, brave men 
 were not only of yeoman mettle but they were well led. 
 They gained the victory at a cost of fewer hundreds than 
 it cost the French in thousands to lose it. On one side, 
 ten thousand killed and fourteen thousand prisoners ! On 
 the other, the highest estimate is one thousand six hun- 
 dred killed and wounded ! It sounds like reports of fights 
 in the times of fabulous romance; but it is no fable that 
 Agincourt was 'a glorious victory.' 
 
 "Nearly a century and a half after the victory for which 
 thanks, alike humble and hearty, were thus offered, a poet 
 
344 
 
 DRA YTOAT S "A GINCO UR T.' 
 
 was born who took Agincourt for his theme — namely, 
 Michael Drayton, a Warwickshire bard, born in 1563, a 
 year before Shakspeare. In 1627 (eleven years after Shak- 
 speare's death), the author of The Polvolbion published the 
 ballad of Agincourt. Many persons have read this stirring 
 poem, but not many possess it; we therefore take advantage 
 of this anniversary season to print it here, especially as the 
 poem has been alluded to in former columns of Notes and 
 Queries, but no full reprint furnished of a martial song, 
 the echoes of which, as before remarked in our columns, seem 
 to have fallen on the well-attuned ear of the author of ' The 
 Charge of the Light Brigade:' 
 
 " Fair stood the wind for France, 
 When we our sails advance ; 
 Nor now to prove our chance, 
 
 Longer will tarry ; 
 But, putting to the main, 
 AtKaux, the mouth of Seine, 
 With all his martial train, 
 
 Landed King Harry. 
 
 " And taking many a fort, 
 Furnished in warlike sort, 
 Marcheth towards Agincourt, 
 
 In happy hour, — 
 Skirmishing day by day, 
 With those that stopped his way, 
 Where the French general lay 
 With all his power, 
 
 " Who, in the height of pride, 
 King Henry to deride, 
 His ransom to provide, 
 
 To the King sending; 
 Which he neglects the while, 
 As from a nation vile ; 
 Yet, with an angry smile, 
 
 Their fall portending. 
 
 " And turning to his men, 
 Quoth our brave Henry then, 
 
DRAYTON'S "AGINCOUJtT." 345 
 
 ■ Though they to one be ten, 
 
 Be not amazed. 
 Yet have we well begun, — 
 Battles so bravely won 
 Have ever to the sun 
 
 By fame been raised. 
 
 " ' And for myself,' quoth he, 
 ' This my full rest shall be : 
 England ne'er mourn for me, 
 
 Nor more esteem me. 
 Victor I will remain, 
 Or on this earth lie slain : 
 Never shall she sustain 
 Loss to redeem me. 
 
 " ' Poitiers and Cressy tell, 
 
 "Where most their pride did swell ; 
 Under our swords they fell. 
 
 No less our skill is 
 Than when our grandsire great, 
 Claiming the regal seat, 
 By many a warlike feat 
 Lopped the French lilies.' 
 
 " The Duke of York so dread, 
 The eager vaward led ; 
 With the main Henry sped, 
 
 Amongst his henchmen. 
 Excester had the rear, — 
 A braver man not there: 
 I [ow fierce and hot they were 
 On the false Frenchmen ! 
 
 " They now to fight are gone ; 
 Armour on armour shone ; 
 Drum now to drum did groan — 
 
 To hear was wonder ; 
 
 That with the cries they make, 
 
 The very earth did shake; 
 
 Trumpet to trumpet spake, 
 
 Thunder to thunder. 
 
 " Well it thine age became, 
 O noble Erpingham ! 
 
346 DRAYTON'S « AG INC OUR T." 
 
 Who didst the signal aim 
 
 To our hid forces ; 
 When, from a meadow by, 
 Like a storm suddenly, 
 The English archery 
 
 Struck the French horses, 
 
 " With Spanish yew so strong, 
 Arrows a cloth-yard long, 
 That like to serpent stung, 
 
 Piercing the weather. 
 None from his fellow starts, 
 But playing manly parts, 
 And like true English hearts, 
 
 Stuck close together. 
 
 " When down their bows they threw, 
 And forth their bilboes drew, 
 And on the French they flew, 
 
 Not one was tardy ; 
 Arms were from shoulders sent, 
 Scalps to the teeth were rent ; 
 Down the French peasants went ; 
 Our men were hardy. 
 
 "This while our noble King, 
 His broadsword brandishing, 
 Down the French host did ding, 
 
 As to o'erwhelm it ; 
 And many a deep wound lent, 
 His arms with blood besprent, 
 And many a cruel dent 
 Bruised his helmet. 
 
 " Gloucester, that Duke so good, 
 Next of the royal blood, 
 For famous England stood 
 
 With his brave brother ; 
 Clarence, in steel so bright, 
 Though but a maiden knight 
 Yet in that famous fight 
 
 Scarce such another. 
 
 " Warwick in blood did wade, 
 Oxford the foe invade, 
 
HIGH TONE OF THE BRITISH PRESS. 347 
 
 And cruel slaughter m ide, 
 
 Still as they ran up ; 
 Suffolk his axe did ply ; 
 Beaumont and Willoughby 
 Bare them right doughtily ; 
 
 Ferrers and Fanhope. 
 
 " Upon St. Crispin's day 
 Fought was this noble fray ; 
 Which fame did not delay 
 
 To England to carry ; 
 Oh ! when shall Englishmen 
 With such acts fill a pen, 
 Or England breed again 
 
 Such a King Harry?" 
 
 There is something of the ring of the Poet-Laureate's 
 well-known poem in this noble lyric by Drayton, written 
 more than two centuries ago. 
 
 London, October 25, 1875. 
 
 LXXX. 
 
 High Tone of the British Press. — Earl of Darnley's Strange Proceeding. 
 
 There is a manly independence in the British press which 
 compels admiration and deserves imitation. Intensely de- 
 voted to English institutions, the men who control it are at 
 once cultivated and bold. Restrained by no censorship, 
 as in France and Germany, beyond the penalties inflicted 
 by laws against defamation, they do not hesitate to take 
 even royalty by the throat when it transcends justice, and 
 an injury inflicted on the humblest citizen is at once re- 
 sented and avenged. It is true, they are adepts in the art 
 of hiding that which with us is made public. They never 
 
348 
 
 EARL OF DARNLEY' S STRANGE PROCEEDING. 
 
 attack each other in their newspapers. They rarely boast 
 of their enterprise or expenditures. They never indulge 
 in personal articles on politicians or statesmen. But they 
 reach the remedy by a broader and a more knightly proce- 
 dure. They force reform by argument couched in the best 
 language. They secure obedience to law by appeals to a 
 judiciary that never quails to bribes or threats. Woe to 
 the pretender or the snob, to the foolish nobleman who 
 forgets his place, or to the suddenly rich who seek admis- 
 sion into good society ; for these there are a short shrift 
 and a condign vengeance. Their satire is as keen as a 
 scimetar. It cuts sharp and close and deep, because it is 
 wielded by a skilful surgeon, and felt equally by the guilty 
 and by the general public. The British press reaches two 
 audiences by this process. It conciliates the rough mil- 
 lions who here lie in eager and envious watch over the luxu- 
 ries of the fortunate few, and it warns the latter, who are 
 often disposed to forget the dangers in the midst of the 
 advantages of their position. Herein lies the safety of the 
 British Empire. The power that can muzzle "the fierce 
 democracy" (even now in this mighty Empire a growing 
 and dissatisfied element), and at the same time check and 
 admonish the weak men and women of the so-called upper 
 classes, is the real conservative despot, if I may use the 
 phrase, of modern Europe. 
 
 The last case in which the English press has exerted 
 itself is that of Earl Darnley and his tenants. The radical 
 organ, Reynolds' Newspaper, I shall permit to tell the story; 
 and when I state that this weekly paper circulates five hun- 
 dred thousand every Saturday and Sunday you can realize 
 the effect of such a statement : 
 
 " A remarkable correspondence has just taken place between Lord 
 Darnley, the owner (by virtue of parchment deeds) of extensive estates at 
 Cobhani, and Mr. William Lake, the Mayor of Gravesend. It appears 
 that, not very long since, the pugnacious Earl was colonel of the West 
 
EARL OF DARNLEY' S STRANGE PROCEEDING. 
 
 349 
 
 Kent Yeomanry, but, owing to disputes that had arisen between himself 
 and the officers of that corps, the commandant considered it the best 
 policy to retire from the regiment. In fact, in consequence of the strong 
 opposition his proceedings evoked, In- hail no other alternative left. It 
 was but natural to expect, under the painful circumstances attendant upon 
 his Lordship's retirement, that his feelings would be wrought upon, and 
 that his temper should be ' riled.' Desirous to break up the regiment, if 
 ible, he took steps in this direction. For example, the Mayor of 
 Gravesend, whose son was a private in the West Kent Yeomanry, was 
 requested to employ his influence to induce the young man to quit the 
 coips, at the same time observing that all his other tenants had obi 
 his behest. Not only so, but the Mayor was informed that such a blind 
 compliance with a feudal command would ' make a great difference be- 
 tween us as landlord and tenant.' Thus the dictum went forth, which the 
 tyrannical Lord considered would be most slavishly and profoundly sub- 
 mitted to 'with bated breath and whisp'ring humbleness.' 
 
 " Not so, however. Lord Darnley had this time mistaken his man and 
 his influence. With the true spirit of a free English citizen, the Chief 
 Magistrate of Gravesend replied to the impudent letter in the style and 
 spirit which it deserved. He stated that he had solicited his son to enter 
 i vice of his country, and thit he failed to see why any dispute which 
 had occurred among the officers would justify him in asking his son to 
 ret in-. Not this alone, but Lord Darnley gets a severe rap over the 
 knuckles in being told, ' Nor can I think that the relationship between a 
 loyal subject and his Queen should in any way be interfered with by that 
 of landlord and tenant.' To this sharp note the irritable Earl sent an 
 enigmatic response. It was to the effect that the position which the Mayor 
 of Gravesend occupied on his bumptious Lordship's estate was a peculiar 
 one, and required consideration ; adding, that if his meaning was not self- 
 evident, he was ready to explain his innuendoes. As Mr. Lake was be- 
 fogged by the lordly epistle, he wrote to state th.it lie could not compre- 
 hend Lord Darnley's meaning — indeed, who could? — and urged further 
 explanation. 
 
 " To this particularly curt communication the secretive man of blue blood 
 responded elaborately. Therein, he particularizes an affected act of kind- 
 ness performed in suffering the Mayor to retain one of his Lordship's best 
 farms, ' notwithstanding your change of residence,' an event allowed be- 
 cause of the supposed unhealthiness <>f the locality of Chalk, and as he had 
 proved himself ' a good tenant as to care and culture.' Really, this is com- 
 bining the philanthropic with tin- practical and profitable in an unusual de- 
 Further, the perturbed Peer essays to attack his antagonist, chiding 
 him for the sort of ' reward' he returned to his lord and landlord. Why 
 should the Mayor of Gravesend have acted differently to the rest of the 
 tenants and the tenants' sons? These poor people had the 'good taste' to 
 
 3° 
 
35° 
 
 EARL OF DARNLEY' S STRANGE PROCEEDING. 
 
 show with what commendable feeling they regarded their late commander- 
 in-chief, by abandoning, of their own accord, it is said, the ranks of the 
 Yeomanry service. More fools and snobs they for so doing! Again, the 
 recalcitrant Mayor is upbraided for having entered upon a position and 
 formed associations different from the tenant farmers on the Cobham estate 
 generally. Next follows a reprimand because Mr. Lake has not pleased 
 to think as do his fellow-tenants, or to have met the big Earl and them 
 during five years at the anniversary dinners. Lord Darnley holds to the 
 absurd opinion that it is decidedly wrong for his correspondent to maintain 
 a position of isolation. Nay, he ventures in this noon-tide of nineteenth 
 century civilization to erect the fell standard of feudalism, and descends to 
 justify a relationship between landlord and tenant which it is impossible to 
 maintain without abject forfeiture of manhood and manly independence. 
 What Lord Darnley deigns to characterize as ' sympathy of sentiment and 
 identity of interest' in such relationship, is nothing less than deliberate sub- 
 jection to the will and whims of land purloiners, who labor under the de- 
 lusion that they have their holdings, and should rule their tenants, by a kind 
 of ' Divine right.' In conclusion, the irate representative of the old intoler- 
 ance gives Mr. Lake a polite notice to quit. He observes : ' It appears to 
 me to be a fair matter for consideration how far any person who prefers to 
 disregard this kind of understanding, is justified in keeping out some one 
 else who would not disregard it.' Taking it altogether, the entire affair is 
 disgraceful, whatever complexion his Lordship of Darnley may please to 
 put upon the same. Why a father should be punished for the sins of his 
 children is something new in the moral code. But the aristocratic eye is 
 blind and cannot see ; the aristocratic judgment is warped and cannot pro- 
 nounce aright; the aristocratic will is obdurate, and cannot help being 
 despotic. We recommend to Lord Darnley the study of his own motto, 
 ' Look to the end' — may it be of aristocratic assumption ! But there is 
 another feature in this case that must not go unnoticed. This conceited 
 and browbeating Earl has deliberately endeavored to break up the 
 Yeomanry corps he once commanded, and this in an underhand way. 
 Is it fitting such a man should longer remain a deputy-lieutenant and 
 magistrate of the county? Most certainly not." 
 
 This is the democratic view of Earl Darnley's position, 
 and I would not send it you, from such a source, if all the 
 English papers, with few exceptions, — and one of these, I 
 ought to add, The Times, — had not rebuked the insufferable 
 insolence of this snob, Darnley, who, if he were a true rep- 
 resentative of his class in Great Britain, would speedily 
 necessitate a revolution more absolute than that which made 
 
FOREIGN EXHIBITORS. 
 
 35* 
 
 Oliver Cromwell an illustrious necessity. But the press 
 steps in and says " Halt !" and " Halt !" it is through all 
 the realm. 
 
 London, October, 1875. 
 
 L X X X I. 
 
 Foreign Exhibitors. — The Gramme Light. 
 
 My correspondent at Geneva writes as follows, under 
 date of October 23 : " You will have a good representa- 
 tion from Switzerland at the International Exhibition. 
 There will be embroideries from St. Gall, silks from Zurich, 
 music-boxes, watches, and jewelry from Geneva and the 
 mountains. Last winter everything was gloomy — now all 
 is bright and cheerful." 
 
 The Democracy of Italy have issued an address to the 
 Centennial Commissioners. It is written on parchment, 
 with a beautiful vignette, and is said to be a fine specimen 
 of the old Latin style. Italy, like Russia, is rapidly 
 making up for lost time, and you may be sure the Italian 
 section will be almost as well filled as it was in Paris in 
 1867 and in Vienna in 1873. 
 
 The last intelligence from Russia in reference to the 
 International Exhibition will be found in the Voix and the 
 St. Petersburg Gazette. These journals agree in the dec- 
 laration that an active participation on the part of Russia 
 in the Exhibition will be an excellent way to renew the 
 good-fellowship up to this time existing between Russia 
 and the United States. Above all, they remark the advan- 
 tages to us from an interested point of view, with direct 
 reference to commercial and agricultural products that will 
 
352 THE GRAMME LIGHT. 
 
 . be sent, and these are additional reasons for congratulat- 
 ing the Minister of Finance on the amiable spirit he has 
 evinced in the matter. At this time Russia, it is well 
 known, consumes annually a considerable quantity of 
 American cotton and petroleum, but there is no direct 
 commercial relation established between the two countries ; 
 England and Germany continue to impose a tax on all 
 their American importations sent to Russia. It is probable, 
 also, that Russia will find these traders and merchants in 
 Philadelphia, who will endeavor to come between our 
 transports that could as well be sent direct, through our 
 own organized agents, from the Baltic to New York and 
 New Orleans and Philadelphia. No less advantage will we 
 derive from the personal observation of rules of science, 
 professional manners, and the classification of arts, which 
 are said to have reached a high point, of which to this time 
 we are entirely ignorant. In enumerating these advan- 
 tages, our contemporary has the candor to point out a dis- 
 advantage arising from the American peculiarity of avoid 
 ing the distinction conferred by decorations and medals, 
 which were so prodigally bestowed at the European exposi- 
 tions. 
 
 The Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, a small Principality 
 of two hundred thousand souls, mostly Germans, is wonder- 
 fully stirred by the Centennial preparations of the great 
 Governments around it. A part of the territory of Hol- 
 land, yet still maintaining its peculiar organization, its 
 charge if affaires at Paris asks for a separate section in the 
 International Puddings. But as Holland has accepted the 
 President's invitation, Luxembourg must take its place in 
 that special department. 
 
 A very ingenious process for illuminating the whole of 
 Fairmount Park with the Gramme light, which has been 
 shown for several weeks past from the lofty tower at Char- 
 ing Cross Station, is about to be presented for the consid- 
 
THE GRAMME LIGHT. 
 
 353 
 
 eration of the Park Commissioners. I have seen a model 
 of it, and have no doubt of its perfect success. Aided by 
 the chart or map of the Park and its environs, the super- 
 intendent of this beautiful contrivance proposes placing one 
 light on the hills east of the Park, near the Schuylkill, 
 another on George's Hill, and several more on the north 
 and the south. In mixing the rays of this extraordinary 
 invention he is quite sure that he will reveal every hill and 
 dale of the three thousand acres. I hope to send forward 
 his schedule or scheme at an early day. Of course, many 
 considerations will enter into the project of lighting the 
 Park, the chief being whether the International Exhibi- 
 tion will be open at night. Next will come the important 
 item of expense. But the invention is so useful and so 
 simple that it will deserve a careful examination. Mr. 
 Zerdeman, who has been for several weeks making his 
 scientific calculations, is a German resident of London, 
 and seems quite confident that he can accomplish this im- 
 portant task at a comparatively moderate cost. Applied 
 to lighthouses on the coast and to ships in danger on the 
 sea, it has received the highest commendations from some 
 of the largest Governments in Europe. 
 
 In my mention of American enterprises in London, I 
 failed to do full justice to the great firm of Arkell, Tufts 
 & Co., shipping and commission house, 32 Great St. 
 Helen's, London, and their main house in New York. 
 This house has been established in England for twenty 
 years, and from the first took a leading place in American 
 business. They ship all classes of goods to all quarters of 
 the globe. 
 
 London, October, 1875. 
 
 30* 
 
354 QUEEN VICTORIA. 
 
 LXXXII. 
 
 Queen Victoria. — Murmurs of the Press. — Her Character of John Brown. 
 
 Her Gracious Majesty, Queen Victoria Alexan- 
 drina, was born at Kensington Palace on the 24th of May, 
 1819. She is the only child of the late Duke of Kent and 
 of the Princess Louisa Victoria of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfield. 
 Nothing is more interesting or amusing to Americans than 
 the complaints of what are called the middle classes be- 
 cause the Queen faithfully cherishes the memory of the 
 Prince Consort and refuses to live in London. Just now 
 our English cousins have a new cause of objection to her 
 Majesty. Whenever she can get rid of Windsor and its 
 duties, she retires to her castle of Balmoral in Scotland, 
 where, in the midst of her little court, and surrounded by 
 her humble retainers, she enjoys herself in a quiet way. 
 This, for years past, has become a sort of habit. 
 
 Her favorite and faithful servant, who was also the 
 favorite and faithful servant of Prince Albert, is a gigantic 
 Highlander named John Brown. The other day the old 
 John Brown, his father, passed out of the world, and his 
 remains were followed to the grave by her Gracious Majesty 
 Queen Victoria. This act, in itself alike praiseworthy 
 and innocent, at least to the American visitor, has roused 
 intense indignation, and John Bull is roaring through all 
 society, high and low, simply because the poor Queen con- 
 descended to walk in the funeral train of the father of her 
 favorite servant. You would be startled if you could hear 
 the innuendoes against her Majesty in consequence of this 
 somewhat republican proceeding. One of the widest circu- 
 lating weekly papers, the Sunday Times, under the head 
 
MURMURS OF THE PRESS, 355 
 
 of "A Royal Prank," breaks into a fierce explosion of 
 rage, of which the following short extract is a specimen : 
 
 " The time has, we think, arrived when some one should speak, and that 
 boldly, on a subject which, however delicate, can no longer be overlooked. 
 With a full knowledge of the responsibility which rests upon us in doing 
 so, we should be omitting a duty we owe to the public if we refrained from 
 calling attention to the embarrassment which is likely to arise if the Chief 
 Magistrate of the realm continues to exhibit that lack of prudence which 
 has lately characterized her public conduct. We may safely say that a 
 thrill of positive astonishment went through the public mind last week on 
 reading the extraordinary prank in which the sovereign of this great nation 
 has been indulging. Some ten days ago a respectable old Scotch croften 
 went the way of all flesh. His only claim to public notice consisted in the 
 fact of his being the progenitor of a morose- looking gillie who, by some 
 strange fatuity, has worked himself into the position of walking shadow to 
 the greatest Queen in Christendom. And yet the obsequies of this obscure 
 little northern farmer, but scarcely removed above the rank of a common 
 laborer, are honored by the personal attendance of her Majesty, who 
 followed the coffin from the cottage to the nearest point where a hearse 
 can approach. In thus parading herself before the world as a laughing- 
 stock for the whole of Europe, we do not hesitate to say that the Queen 
 has done one of the most ill-advised acts which has marked her long 
 reign. The tongue of scandal is ever busy, and ' the fierce light that beats 
 upon a throne' will not admit of actions which, however harmless or even 
 laudable in themselves, are derogatory to the dignity of the nation repre- 
 sented in the person of the sovereign. Recent circumstances with reference 
 to the lamentable accident in the Solent have shown the public that the 
 advice tendered to her Majesty is not always of the soundest, but it seems 
 to us beyond comprehension that those court officials whose duty it is to 
 arrange the Queen's public movements should have allowed her to place 
 herself in such an invidious position as that of the chief movirner to John 
 Brown's father. We are willing to make every allowance for the Queen's 
 well-known kindness of heart, and had the deceased been a favorite old 
 servant, the unusual breach of etiquette might have been allowed to pass • 
 but even when that poor excuse does not exist, the public want to know 
 why such unusual honor is showered on an unknown Scotchman, when an 
 empty carriage and a red-faced coachman arc considered the proper 
 ' mourning' for the greatest and best men in the country when they are 
 borne to their final rest. It is almost impossible to realize the effect which 
 will be produced on the unthinking portion of the community when they 
 see in every shop-window a certain cheap illustrated paper, in this week's 
 number of which her Majesty is depicted with a woe-begone aspect follow- 
 ing a coffin borne by four bare-legged Scotchmen, and immediately pre- 
 
356 MURMURS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 ceding two brawny persons in very scanty clothing, representing the two 
 eldest orphan Browns. The most rampant Red Republican could never 
 have suggested an act more calculated to serve his views than this unfortu- 
 nate spectacle." 
 
 I am often reminded here of what the English call the 
 excessive brutalities of the American press, but I do not 
 think anything quite as coarse and vulgar as the above pas- 
 sage has ever appeared in a respectable newspaper in the 
 United States. The Queen's standing offence is the com- 
 parative simplicity and seclusion of her life. She goes to 
 no places of amusement, gives few entertainments, and is 
 only seen in London on great public occasions. This ab- 
 sence from society incenses the shopkeepers, who literally 
 live by the lavish expenditures of the nobility. There is a 
 want of manliness in such articles as that from which I 
 quote. The writer goes as far as safety will permit, and 
 leaves room for suspicions of the most revolting kind. Yet, 
 strange to say, there is hardly an Englishman whose anger 
 would not be aroused when an American, which, I am glad 
 to say, rarely occurs, echoes any slander upon the Queen 
 of Great Britain. A paragraph like that I copy published 
 in France against a high official would lead to instant sup- 
 pression of the offending newspaper. There is not a lady 
 in the realm who can point to a purer personal character 
 than Queen Victoria. The mother of nine children, she 
 excels not only in domestic virtues, but refuses to recognize 
 in her court circle or her drawing-rooms any person of 
 doubtful character. If it were proper to introduce names 
 into this correspondence, I could print numbers of cases 
 in which ladies of the best families have been excluded 
 from the court in consequence of their fast lives. It seems 
 to me quite reasonable that an act of such voluntary kind- 
 ness as that of going to old John Brown's funeral arouses 
 such unmanly criticisms as these, chiefly because Victoria 
 sets a democratic, or, rather, a liberal example. 
 
 Considering what liberties have been grossly taken with 
 
VICTORIA'S CHARACTER OF JOHN BROWN. 357 
 
 Queen Victoria's name and character, in connection with 
 John Brown, her attendant, it is only fair, considering that 
 Majesty cannot defend itself, to quote a passage, which 
 comes in very apropos, from one of Queen Victoria's books, 
 — " Leaves from the Journal of Our Life in the Highlands, 
 from 1848 to 1S61." In this work, published in 1868, 
 mention is made of a boating-party on Loch Muich, in 
 September, 1850, when the Queen and her husband were 
 rowed by "Duncan, Brown, P. Cotes, and Leys." This 
 is the first time that Brown is named, and, following her 
 habit of giving some particulars about persons in the Scot- 
 tish Highlands, the Queen has supplied the following 
 foot-note to his name. "He is," she wrote, "the same 
 who, in 1858, became my regular attendant everywhere in 
 the Highlands; who commenced as gillie in 1849, anc ^ 
 was selected by Albert and myself to go with my car- 
 riage. In 1 85 1 he entered our service permanently, and 
 began in that year leading my pony, and advanced step by 
 "step by his good conduct and intelligence. His attention, 
 care, and faithfulness cannot be exceeded ; and the state 
 of my health, which of late years has been sorely tried and 
 weakened, renders such qualifications most valuable, and, 
 indeed, most needful in a constant attendant upon all occa- 
 sions. He has since, most deservedly, been promoted to 
 be an upper servant, and my permanent personal attendant 
 (December, 1865). He has all the independence and ele- 
 vated feelings peculiar to the Highland race, and is singu- 
 larly straightforward, simple-minded, kind-hearted, and 
 disinterested; always ready to oblige, and of a discretion 
 rarely to be met with. He is now in his fortieth year. 
 His father was a small farmer, who lived at the Bush, on 
 the opposite side to Balmoral. He is the second of nine 
 brothers, three of whom have died, two are in Australia 
 and New Zealand, two are living in the neighborhood of 
 Balmoral, and the youngest, Archie (Archibald), is valet to 
 
358 RUSSIA, TUNIS, AND FRANCE. 
 
 our son Leopold, and is an excellent, trustworthy young 
 man." This record, creditable alike to the Royal lady 
 who was not afraid to do justice to a faithful servant, and 
 to him who is its subject, was written, it appears by its 
 date, in December, 1865. 
 
 John Bright told me a few months ago that Queen Vic- 
 toria was one of the most careful and domestic women he 
 had ever met, and you will remember Mr. Bright had 
 frequent opportunities to meet her while he was a member 
 of the Government, during Mr. Gladstone's ministry. Per- 
 haps her Majesty sees that the time is coming when all 
 crowns, titles, and privileges will be swept away, and that 
 it can be no loss of dignity to her womanhood to mingle 
 occasionally with the humbler classes of society. There is 
 one nation on earth that can never forget, and that is the 
 United States, how Queen Victoria and the Prince Con- 
 sort frustrated the attempt of at least one domineering 
 statesman, Lord Palmerston, to place the Government of 
 England on the side of rebellion during our civil war. 
 
 London, October, 1875. 
 
 LXXXIIL 
 
 Russia, Tunis, and France at the Exposition. 
 
 The Russians are making tremendous efforts to be rep- 
 resented at the Centennial. All the departments of the 
 Russian Government have now taken hold with extraor- 
 dinary zeal. This is in consequence of Imperial orders, 
 and as those are imperative every class co-operates with the 
 Royal Commission. The Russians care very little about 
 money. They pour it out like water, and now that they 
 
 
RUSSIA, TUNIS, AND FRANCE. 359 
 
 have reconsidered their action, you must prepare for a 
 superior display. The Russian chief of the Royal Com- 
 mission cabled to Philadelphia for additional space in the 
 International Buildings ; but the demand came too late, 
 and Russia could not be accommodated with more than had 
 been originally allotted to her. They were much disap- 
 pointed at this natural decision ; but it did not slacken 
 their zeal. They have engaged two large steamers at Ham- 
 burg to carry out their specimens. The great Russian 
 organ, The Golos, or Voice, of the 23d of October, has 
 published the Imperial view of the Centennial situation. 
 It is a comprehensive retrospect upon our past relations 
 with the Russian Empire, and a noble pledge of amity in 
 the future. 
 
 There is other good news from another part of the Old 
 World — a new proof of the cosmopolitan character of the 
 Exhibition. The following official document from the 
 Bey of Tunis, one of the Barbary States, addressed to 
 our well-known fellow-citizen, Mr. George Harris Heap, 
 for nine years American consul in that small State, shows 
 the anxiety of its ruler to utilize President Grant's invi- 
 tation. The condition of the Tunisian representation at 
 Philadelphia is the acceptance of the honor conferred 
 upon Mr. Heap by the Bey of Tunis. Permission to dis- 
 charge the duties of this station will, it is hoped, be granted 
 by Congress early in the next session. There is no pay 
 attached to the position, and if Mr. Heap can be author- 
 ized to undertake its duties it will secure to us from Tunis 
 a valuable and unique contribution : 
 
 [Translation.] 
 PRAISES TO THE ONLY GOD! 
 From the servant of God (may His name be glorified)! From the one 
 who relies on the Almighty for the conduct of all his affairs. The Moo- 
 slicer Mohammed El Sad ok, Pacha Bey, possessor of the Kingdom of 
 Tunis, to the most venerated and respected Mr. (i. Harris Heap, consul 
 of the United States of America in our capital of Tunis. 
 
360 RUSSIA, TUNIS, AND FRANCE. 
 
 Agreenbly to the invitation which you presented to us in the name of 
 your Government to send a personage to represent our Government in the 
 Tunisian section of the Exhibition at Philadelphia, we have given orders to 
 prepare such of the important productions of the country as was done for 
 the exhibitions at Paris and Vienna, that they might be sent to the afore- 
 mentioned Exhibition, and this in order to demonstrate the good relations 
 which exist between the two Governments. 
 
 As we have been informed that you desired to ask permission to visit 
 your country at the opening of the Exhibition, and as we know that you 
 have always shown a great love for our country and constant wish for the 
 welfare of our person, we have deemed it advisable to place this mission 
 under your charge ; that is to say, to appoint you our envoy as our First 
 Commissioner in charge of the Tunisian section of the Exhibition. 
 
 We are confident that your Government will authorize you to accept 
 this mission, and that you will not decline it. 
 
 Your long residence in this country ; your acquaintance with its re- 
 sources and products ; and, above all, your good intervention, which has 
 produced the best relations with your Government, give us the greatest 
 security that you will represent our Government in the manner most satis- 
 factory to us and the most honorable to yourself. 
 
 May you remain under the safeguard of God ! 
 
 Written the 21st Rajeb, 1292 (23d August, 1875). 
 
 Khairedine, 
 First Minister. 
 
 Many indications combine to justify the hopes and pre- 
 dictions that the Centennial year will show a large improve- 
 ment in business. A useful illustration will be found in 
 the report just published by General Torbert, American 
 consul-general for France. The table of exports to the 
 United States from all the French departments in 1874 
 shows an increase over the previous year of two million 
 seven hundred and forty-one thousand seven hundred and 
 forty-nine dollars and eleven cents, and a total expenditure 
 of sixty-one millions even hundred and sixty-seven thou- 
 sand four hundred and four dollars and four cents. This 
 official statement shows what good customers we are in the 
 purchase of French goods, and also why France is making 
 such great preparations for the Centennial. 
 
 London, October, 1875. 
 
TUP PER' S DRAMA OF "WASHINGTON:' 361 
 L X X X I V. 
 
 Martin Farquhar Tupper's drama of "Washington." 
 
 Several English and American gentlemen lately met 
 the well-known Mr. Martin Farquhar Tupper at the resi- 
 dence of the American minister, in London, for the 
 purpose of hearing him read his new play called " Wash- 
 ington," a drama in five acts, which he introduces as 
 follows : 
 
 " Having all my life through had an honest admiration of George Wash- 
 ington (in a very early book, ' The Modern Pyramid,' he is one of my 
 worthies of mankind), I rejoice in the chance of making a monograph of 
 his noble life, and my well-known international sentiments now for nearly 
 half a century, dating as they do ancestrally from much older times, will 
 be a good excuse, if such be needed, for producing this play on the Cen- 
 tenary of American Independence." 
 
 Mr. Tupper was born in London in 1S10, and from 1838 
 down to the present time has contributed many volumes to 
 English literature. His " Proverbial Philosophy," pub- 
 lished in 1844, is well known on both sides of the Atlantic. 
 This was followed by many other sketches and poems. 
 Severely criticised as he has been, it is conceded that he 
 has done great good by the high moral tone of his writings, 
 many of which are far above mediocrity. It was a novel 
 experience to hear an English gentleman reading a drama 
 in which the whole argument and much of the history of 
 the Revolutionary War is illustrated and condensed, and it 
 was specially gratifying to notice the effect upon his own 
 countrymen as he carried us through the varied scenes of 
 the play. I am not quite sure that his " Washington" 
 could be successfully produced in America, although the 
 English gentlemen present insisted that it would be favor- 
 Q 3 1 
 
362 TUPPER'S DRAMA OF « WASHINGTON" 
 
 ably greeted in London. I have no doubt that after some 
 necessary alterations, if represented in America during the 
 Centennial year, it would be handsomely rewarded. Mr. 
 Tupper introduces Washington, Franklin, Patrick Henry, 
 John Adams, Benedict Arnold, Marquis de Lafayette, 
 Major Andre, Bishop (Washington's negro body-servant), 
 Martha Washington, and Mary Arnold, the sister of the 
 traitor. A tew passages will give you a touch of the quality 
 of the play. 
 
 It opens with Arnold's violent patriotism, as if to show 
 that extreme men are always to be distrusted, and he fol- 
 lows with several excellent pictures of Franklin and of 
 Washington. The former has just returned from England, 
 and reports his reception by the British Council in London. 
 I quote what Franklin said : 
 
 I said we hated priestcraft, and would none 
 Of State religion and its hierarchy ; 
 We would have none of foreign laws or judges 
 Or taskmaster officials grinding us 
 By tyrannous taxation everywhere ; 
 I told them we denounced, renounced all these, 
 And claimed, though loyal still, self-government. 
 Yet all fell through ; an utter chaos of failure 
 <■ Seemed to crash round me, like a shattered world; 
 And I then felt much as that self-strong man, 
 Horace, you remember, who defied, 
 As you, with me, defy, the thunderbolt 
 Even of tyrannic Jove himself. Alone, 
 In the calm majesty of self-respect, 
 I then threw down your gage of Independence, 
 And, full free conduct granted, came away 
 Pledged, like yourselves, a rebel for the right. 
 
 And Washington's answer: 
 
 Thus, England, we must break away from thee; 
 My fathers' home for full four hundred years, 
 Or ever we came here, a century back, 
 
TUPPER'S DRAMA OF "WASHINGTON." 363 
 
 Must be renounced forever. 
 
 Be it so. 
 If in this struggle I win the glorious prize, 
 Our people's freedom to the end of time, 
 A nation that shall overflow the globe, 
 Making this hemisphere the fountain-head, 
 Lo ! what a Pisgah view to one who stands 
 The Father of his country to all ages, 
 Living in them revered — but if I lose, 
 How swift and terrible the penalties ! 
 The vast estates my honored father left me 
 Forfeited, my rich revenues by marriage 
 Confiscated, and that best-loved wife a beggar, 
 While for myself the traitor's hideous doom, 
 Hanged, drawn, and quartered. What a fearful price 
 For the mere strife to conquer liberty ! 
 Is there no middle track? — too late, too late; 
 The sword is drawn, the die of fate is cast ; 
 Liberty shall be conquered if I live, 
 And if I die, for others let me die 
 In their just cause of freedom: be the past 
 Wiped out as dead — the present bloody effort, 
 The future dark as night; but, what of duty, 
 What of obedience, what of just affection? 
 Are these all sure and safe on freedom's side ? 
 Can I abjure my country and my King, 
 Nor feel a parricide against a mother ? — 
 Mother! Yet are there seen some so-called mothers 
 Unmotherly, harsh-featured, heavy-handed, 
 The callous and hard-hearted sort, in whom 
 Maternal instinct is all dead, while those 
 Counted her children, driven from hearth and home, 
 Can no more call her blessed ! Mother ! well — 
 If she neglects to teach and train her sons, 
 Crushes their energies for selfish gain, 
 Makes them her serfs and drudges, keeps them down, 
 Though they are grown full-fledged for liberty, 
 When freedom is their right— is this a mother 
 To taunt me with ingratitude, or claim 
 Parental honor? No! King George's England 
 Has shown small mercy to her far-off sons, 
 Exiled for conscience-sake in evil days ; 
 And we are still fallen on days as evil ; 
 Tyrannically taxed, straitened, kept down, 
 
364 TUPPER'S DRAMA OF "WASHINGTON: 1 
 
 Treated like children — worse, like slaves! O soul ! 
 Pray hard for better times. May some glad change 
 ( Haply long hence — perhaps a hundred years — 
 For nations move but slowly) yet find England 
 Leaning upon America, her son, 
 Returned to love and bless her; thanking Heaven, 
 Whose overruling wisdom ordereth all things, 
 Making man's wrath work the good-will of God, 
 That these twin giant peoples linked together 
 Shall hold both hemispheres in fee between them, 
 Making the world their one Imperial realm ! 
 
 Here is John Adams' description of the opening of the 
 war : 
 
 At Lexington first blood was drawn : 
 Pitcairn attacked us ; but we answered him 
 So stoutly that we drove him for six miles. 
 He had thrice our force, and we, undisciplined, 
 Hunted him to his ships at Charlestown Neck, 
 Where he took shelter with his Grenadiers, 
 Leaving the victory ours. Massachusetts 
 Flung out the watchword, " Death or Liberty !" 
 And everywhere the beacons blazed defiance, 
 From State to State, through thirteen Colonies. 
 Then the great giant woke, and stood up strong ; 
 A mighty people, flaming red with rage, 
 Gathered by drum and trumpet everywhere ; 
 The steeples clashed to arms — even pious preachers 
 Stood on their pulpit stairs calling to arms. 
 The teamster left his ploughshare in the furrow, 
 And galloped with his horses to the war; 
 The yeoman tore his rifle from its case ; 
 The draper leapt across his counter straight, 
 Eager to fight for freedom ; even women 
 Swarmed in as volunteers, and very children 
 Shouldered the muskets they could scarcely lift. 
 We soon had thirty thousand men in arms, 
 Selected from three hundred thousand more, 
 And at their head our noble Washington, 
 Chosen Commander-in-chief. 
 
 In the second scene of the second act Patrick Henry 
 and Washington are in conference, of which the following 
 will be read with interest: 
 
TAPPER'S DRAMA OF ''WASHINGTON." 365 
 
 P. Henry. We can rejoice together, general, 
 That our own dear Virginia joined the league, 
 Albeit at bloody cost already : Norfolk, 
 That loyal town of peaceful homes, burnt down 
 By the cold, cowardly despot, Lord Dunmore, 
 Who, hiding on a man-of-war in the Roads, 
 Dared thus to cannonade us : O King George ! 
 If Cresar had his Brutus, Charles his Cromwell, 
 'Twere well you profited— I say no more — 
 By such examples. 
 
 1 1 'ashington. This is saddening news ; 
 Friend, I have more to make me sorrowful. 
 New York is falling away ; Connecticut 
 Is wearying, is half-hearted in the cause, 
 Her levies at our need deserting us, 
 Even by battalions — they had served their year 
 And must get home; they say, Let others fight. 
 
 sir! my soul has groaned. Where are the men 
 With whom I must defend America? 
 
 The weight of care lies heavy at my heart. 
 Shamed by desertions, vexed with meanness, 
 The jealousy of Congress, and the taunts, 
 Even of brother soldiers, slandering me. 
 
 P. Henry. I hear that General Lee has brought a charge 
 Of sloth, incompetence — I know not what. 
 
 Washington. Osir! the worst afflictions of a man 
 ( .1111' from false friends, envious competitors, 
 Whispering detraction in a private sense, 
 More than from public foes; I can endure 
 Defeat, but not defection ; all the toils 
 Perils, and open accidents of war, 
 But not the secret jealousies of peace ; 
 They thwart me, doubt me, misinterpret me, 
 Maligning all that's done, and left undone. 
 
 1 may stand up serene, but feel it still. 
 
 A street in Baltimore, Scene III., Act II., is curious as 
 revealing what Mr. Tupper insists is the true history of the 
 origin of the American flag : 
 
 Rachel. But we're not English now. 
 Timothy. Who told you that? 
 
 We're Greater Britain, England magnified, 
 
366 TUPPER'S DRAMA OF "WASHINGTON." 
 
 In origin, and laws, and soul the same. 
 
 What language do you speak ? Who were your fathers ? 
 
 What's your religion, if not Protestant? 
 
 Your books, your liberties, your stalwart force 
 
 Of independent character? — all English; 
 
 They fill an island, we a continent ; 
 
 We are republicans, they monarchists ; 
 
 But our Head Man looks very like a king, 
 
 And their great Ruler is the sovereign people ! 
 
 The name seems well enough, our Yankee flag 
 
 Rachel. You saw it, Timothy? 
 
 Timothy. Yes, girl, at Boston. 
 
 There first was shown that glorious flag unfurled. 
 
 Nathan. Yes, friend, I too stood by when they tore down 
 The Union Jack of England, and flung out 
 Those stars and stripes. Tell me why stars and stripes ? 
 
 Timothy. It's fair enough ; they make a pretty show 
 Shining and wriggling in the sun like snakes. 
 
 Nathan. That's a poor answer. Why choose stripes and stars ? 
 
 [Enter FRANKLIN.] 
 Oh ! here comes one can tell us everything. 
 Good-morrow, Brother Franklin. Dost thou know, 
 And wilt thou say, why they chose stars and stripes ? 
 
 Franklin. Yes, Nathan, I proposed it to the Congress. 
 It was their leader's old crusading blazon, 
 Washington's coat, his own heraldic shield. 
 
 Nathan. Can this be known, and was it not ambition 
 
 A Cromwell come again? 
 
 Franklin. Listen, good friends : 
 
 It is not known, and it was not ambition. 
 He never heard of it till fixed and done. 
 For on the spur, when we must choose a flag 
 Symbolling independent unity, 
 We, and not he — all was unknown to him — ■ 
 Took up his coat of arms, and multiplied 
 And magnified it every way to this, 
 Our glorious national banner. 
 
 Rachel. Coat of arms ? 
 
 What was this coat of arms? 
 
 Franklin. I'll tell you, friends. 
 
 I've searched it out, and know it for myself, 
 When late in England there, at Heralds' College, 
 And found the Washingtons of Wessyngton, 
 
TIPPER'S DRAMA OF "WASHINGTON:' 367 
 
 In County Durham, and of Sulgrave Manor, 
 County Northampton, bore upon their shield 
 Three stars atop, three stars below the fess, 
 Gules — that is red — on white, and for the crest 
 An eagle's head upspringing to the light. 
 The architraves at Sulgrave testify, 
 As sundry painted windows in the hall 
 At Wessyngton, this was their family coat. 
 They took it to their new Virginia home ; 
 And at Mount Vernon I myself have noted 
 An old cast-iron scutcheoned chimney-back 
 Charged with that heraldry. 
 
 Timothy. Well, this is strange, 
 
 And no one knows it ; surely such a relic 
 Must soon be cared for, if not worshipped. 
 
 Franklin. Sir, 
 
 Causes are soon forgotten ; consequents 
 Quickly close-shadow them as plants their seeds. 
 I wot I am the first to tell you all 
 This root and reason for our stars and stripes. 
 I must be gone. 
 
 Nathan. Farewell ; we thank thee, brother. 
 
 Timothy. Well, Nathan, this is grand about those stars; 
 The stars are now thirteen — each star a State, 
 And may soon be thrice that, say thirty-nine, 
 With " forty stripes save one" to whip the world. 
 How say you, Quaker friend? 
 
 Nathan. Well, I opined 
 
 Friend Franklin must have known, and I perceive 
 That eagle's head hath pulled a body out 
 Full-fledged, as mounting up to the higher heaven 
 Trailing a mantlet-cloud of stars and stripes. 
 I am a man of peace ; I love not wars ; 
 Yet were it well that none should strive with me, 
 Or touch, unless in love, those stars and stripes. 
 
 Timothy. Well said, old Nathan ! but we stay too long. 
 Come to headquarters ; there is all the news. 
 
 After this the treason of Arnold begins to dawn, fol- 
 lowed by its discovery, his flight, and the trial and execu- 
 tion of Andre. 
 
 The difficulty of producing a patriotic play is well under- 
 stood by dramatists and actors, but the value of Mr. 
 
368 SOCIAL GATHERING IN PARIS. 
 
 Tupper's effort is the fact that it is a sincere tribute to our 
 country, and in proper hands may be a useful addition to 
 dramatic literature. Mr. Tupper stated that his aged aunt 
 had met Benedict and Mrs. Arnold in London, and he had 
 often heard her describe them. I recalled the fact to my 
 English friends that popr Major Andre had lived in Phila- 
 delphia during the British occupation, and was an especial 
 favorite in consequence of his amiable temper and graceful 
 manners, and that he was quite active in organizing private 
 theatricals. Mr. Tupper will visit us during the Centennial 
 year, and will doubtless personally superintend the intro- 
 duction of his play, if it is to be performed there. Only 
 a few copies of it have been printed for private circulation, 
 one of which he placed in my hands. 
 
 LONDON, November, 1875. 
 
 LXXXV. 
 
 Social Gathering in Paris. — M. Laboulaye's Eloquence. 
 
 The Hotel du Louvre has been the scene of many bril- 
 liant gatherings, but few more impressive than the recent 
 gathering in honor and aid of the colossal monument to 
 'be erected on Bedloe's Island, in the harbor of New York, 
 the foundations of which are to be laid during the Centen- 
 nial year. The banquet originated with Major Bartholdi, 
 the young artist who conceived the monument, and his 
 compatriot, the generous M. Caubert, who visited Phila- 
 delphia in 1874, and returns to us early in the spring of 
 1876, in company with him. Two hundred French and 
 Americans were invited on this interesting occasion, and 
 nearly every character famous in politics, war, and litera- 
 ture in this beautiful country was present. At a time 
 
SOCIAL GATHERING IN PARIS. 369 
 
 when party spirit runs high all parties met in response to 
 the call of the designer of the monument, which was. 
 strikingly symbolized in a superb transparency at the end 
 of the hall, facing the company. 
 
 The Republican leader, Laboulaye, presided, surrounded 
 by the descendants of Lafayette and Rochambeau; the 
 Marshal-President, MacMahon, with his immediate staff; 
 Leon Say, Wallon, De Meaux, and Jules Simon, of the 
 Cabinet; De Tocqueville and Henri Martin, the historian; 
 Emile de Girardin, the journalist, with Beranger, Alexan- 
 der Dumas, Jr., Dietz-Monin, the chief of the manufactur- 
 ing interest ; Michael Chevalier, the political economist; 
 all the Parisian editors and most of the French artists ; 
 Offenbach, the king of the opera bouffe ; Galliaudet, 
 formerly of the Courrier des Etats-Uiiis, in New York ; 
 General d'Abzac, Admiral De Fourichon, Admiral Pothu- 
 nan, the minister of the Swiss Republic, Mr. J. C. Kern, a 
 large number of Deputies, and most of the American 
 sojourners in Paris, including the artists, May, Bacon, etc. 
 The American minister at London sat on the right of the 
 President, and Mr. Washburne directly in front ; Consul- 
 General Torbert, Major-General Sickles, General Eaton, 
 United States army; Dr. Evans; Mr. J. W. Tucker, the 
 banker; Mr. J. F. Ryan, the able Paris editor of the'New 
 York Herald ; Mr. Guelyn, of the New York Times; Mr. 
 Bainbridge, of the Philadelphia Press ; Dr. Crane, of the 
 American Register ; Hon. Richard Parsons, of Ohio ; Gen- 
 eral McKee Dunn, of the Department of Justice, Wash- 
 ington, D. C. ; Dr. Johnston, the favorite American phy- 
 sician ; J. C. Mackenzie, of Galignani 's Messenger ; George 
 B. Mickle and E. Detmold, of New York, and many more. 
 The spacious banqueting-hail of the Hotel du Louvre, one 
 of the finest in the world, with two tables parallel the 
 whole length^ and another extending the whole width at 
 the end, presented a scene of rare splendor. 
 Q* 
 
370 M. LABOULAYE' S ELOQUENCE. 
 
 The events of the evening were a cable despatch to Presi- 
 dent Grant that Frenchmen of all parties had joined their 
 American brethren in hearty preparations for the Centen- 
 nial year; then the news from the Centennial Commission 
 at Philadelphia, conveyed through Mr. Owen, the British 
 Executive Commissioner, to the American Commissioner 
 to Europe, Mr. Forney, that the most liberal concessions 
 had been made to foreign exhibitors at the Centennial, and, 
 finally, the two remarkable speeches of Mr. Washburne, 
 American minister at Paris, and M. Laboulaye, the presi- 
 dent of the banquet. Mr. Washburne's address contained 
 a mass of interesting facts relating to the French participa- 
 tion in the Revolution, collected from the choice treasures 
 in the great libraries of Paris. Although Mr. Washburne 
 spoke in English to an audience largely composed of French- 
 men, his impassioned syllables reached every breast, and 
 the vast saloon rang with responsive cheers. His speech is 
 now in many a Paris household, and thus the undying grati- 
 tude of a great people across the Atlantic is felt in every 
 French breast to keep alive a peaceful affection by means 
 of an increasing commerce and a constant intercourse be- 
 tween the two peoples. 
 
 But if the French caught the American enthusiasm of 
 Mr. Washburne, what shall I say of the American response 
 to the French welcome of M. Laboulaye? His words ex- 
 cited a prodigious enthusiasm. What he said has been well 
 translated into English for some of the papers here ; but it 
 is impossible, by that means, to realize the quiet and easy 
 grace with which he pronounced it. It was the perfection 
 of semi-colloquial oratory. Names and dates came to him 
 in magical succession, and his rhetoric was dignified with- 
 out dulness, and convincing without dogmatism. He struck 
 the rock of the past till the finest memories flashed before us 
 like living waters. No one who then heard Laboulaye for 
 the first time could wonder that he is so ardently beloved 
 
M. LAB O LEAVE'S ELOQUENCE. 371 
 
 and so obediently followed by the people. He spoke for 
 three-quarters of an hour without notes, rather like a philos- 
 opher than a statesman, and as he carried his hearers along, 
 he wove into the web of his story alternate jewels of wit 
 and pathos that called forth laughter and tears. I noticed 
 that some of his political opponents tried to be indifferent at 
 first, but he gradually unlocked their hearts till he had the 
 whole house on his side. Nothing escaped him. Every 
 incident of American history, and of the night, was ab- 
 sorbed in his generous tribute. No name was left un- 
 noticed — and when he finished he was as unruffled as when 
 he rose. I hope the letter he has addressed to President 
 Grant in favor of Bartholdi's colossal lighthouse in New 
 York harbor will be responded to as it deserves. The 
 French are giving the largest part in work and money to 
 it, and our share of it should be forthcoming readily. 
 Although I have had the pleasure of knowing M. Labou- 
 laye several years, having been presented to him by my 
 lamented friend, Mr. Charles Sumner, in 1867, this was 
 the first time I ever heard him speak in public. Every- 
 body recollects his marvellous work, "Paris in America," 
 and, perhaps, some of my readers may possibly recall his 
 magnificent letter, addressed to myself, which appeared in 
 The Press in 1S68, in support of General Grant's election 
 to the Presidency. As I have said, the charm of his written 
 rhetoric is nothing like the charm of his spoken eloquence. 
 Such was the effect produced by this wonderful effort that 
 it was followed by the most generous subscriptions to the 
 lighthouse, forty thousand francs, or nearly ten thousand 
 dollars, having been raised on the spot. 
 
 The descendants of the Frenchmen who helped us during 
 the Revolution watched him with affectionate solicitude 
 while he was speaking, and the Americans were quite as 
 rapturous in their cheers as the Frenchmen. How M. 
 Laboulaye can resist the constant, earnest invitation of 
 
372 CAPTAIN HARRELL. 
 
 his American friends to visit Philadelphia in 1876, is to be 
 wondered at. He says he is too old. He was sixty-four 
 on the 1 8th of last January, but does not look more than 
 fifty. 
 
 Paris, November, 1S75. 
 
 LXXXVI. 
 
 Captain Harrell. — The "Herald" Reading-Room in Paris. 
 
 Captain J. W. Harrell, the English gentleman who 
 sent to our International Exhibition a valuable collection 
 of paintings by the old masters, still stored in the ware- 
 house attached to the Philadelphia Custom House, has been 
 denounced in some of our newspapers as something of an 
 impostor, and his pictures either valueless or fraudulent. 
 The time has come to correct this by stating the plain 
 truth. Captain Harrell is connected with one of the oldest 
 families in Great Britain ; is a member of the Junior 
 United Service Club, one of the most influential in Lon- 
 don ; served with great distinction in the British army 
 during the troubles in India, and resigned his commission 
 at the time of his marriage. I do not know any gentleman 
 in London who is more warmly appreciated than Captain 
 Harrell. His friends are devoted to him, and those who 
 have known him longer than I have pronounce him a man 
 of the strictest integrity and honor. His pictures are 
 genuine works of art by the old masters. I have seen the 
 catalogue and conversed with connoisseurs who have ex- 
 amined them, and declare that they are equally rare and 
 valuable. So much is due to a gentleman who has been 
 made the target of severe and undeserved reflections. 
 When I remember that this gentleman has expended a 
 
THE "HERALD" READING-ROOM IN PARIS. 
 
 373 
 
 large sum of money in packing and sending these fine 
 works of art to Philadelphia, and will revisit our city in 
 1876, I feel certain that these voluntary words in his be- 
 half will be responded to by my brethren of the press at 
 home. He came among us a stranger, and was surprised 
 at his rough and somewhat uncourteous reception, and I 
 hope when he returns he will receive an honest and hos- 
 pitable welcome. 
 
 Lately, in Paris, I visited the beautiful office of the New 
 York Herald in the Place d'Opera, an evidence of the 
 thoughtful generosity of James Gordon Bennett. The 
 chief of this handsome establishment, John J. Ryan, Esq., 
 has so organized and ornamented it as to make it one of 
 the most agreeable resorts in the gay French capital. On 
 the broad is of the bulk window of the first floor you 
 
 find every day the latest cable dispatches from all parts 
 of the world, particularly from the United States. Inside 
 on this floor are the business offices of the Herald, where 
 you find the clerk and the chief. On the second floor you 
 enter by convenient stairs into a reading-room admirably 
 furnished. There are two hundred American papers on 
 the files, a larger variety than is found anywhere else in 
 Europe. There are always gathered the most intelligent 
 of our country people, ladies and gentlemen. It has all 
 the advantages of a club, without the disadvantages, and 
 you make and renew many valuable acquaintances. There 
 is an air of comfort and quiet — an American home-feeling 
 — in the place perfectly delightful. 
 
 LONDON, November, 1875. 
 
374 THE SUEZ CANAL. 
 
 L XXXVI I. 
 
 The Suez Canal. 
 
 John Emil Lemoinne, a celebrated French writer, born 
 in London of French parents on the 17th of October, 1815, 
 at present one of the editors of the Journal des Debats, 
 has been devoting himself for years to the exposition of 
 British policy. A man of remarkable wit, boldness, and 
 originality, he is something of a prophet withal. Within 
 the last year he has repeatedly predicted that Great Britain 
 would quietly give the conge to Turkey and as quietly 
 assume the protectorship of Egypt. This design has been 
 steadily denied by the English until the collapse of Mo- 
 hammedan credit and the repudiation of Mohammedan 
 securities compelled a frank development of the ultimate 
 designs of Great Britain on the Eastern question. The 
 London Times of November 26, 1875, proved that M. 
 John Lemoinne was something more than a political pam- 
 phleteer, by announcing an achievement on the part of the 
 British Government which shows that he had truly foretold 
 the future. By a stroke as sudden as it was startling, The 
 Times announced the purchase of all the interest of the 
 Khedive of Egypt in the celebrated Suez Canal. There are 
 four hundred thousand shares in this company. The Khe- 
 dive owned one hundred and seventy-seven thousand, which 
 he has sold to Great Britain for four millions sterling, or 
 twenty millions of dollars. To give you a full idea of the 
 manner in which this transaction was laid before the English 
 people I quote The Times' 1 announcement : 
 
 "THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT AND THE SUEZ CANAL. 
 " The following- is a copy of a telegram received by the Bank of Egypt 
 from their head office at Alexandria : 
 
THE SUEZ CANAL. 375 
 
 " ' Egyptian Government sold to English Government Suez Canal shares 
 for four million pounds sterling. Minister is authorized to chaw this amount 
 on Rothschild at sight.' 
 
 "The following may be stated to be the effect of this transaction: The 
 Khedive having offered to sell to her Majesty's Government the shares 
 which he holds in the Suez Canal for the sum of four millions sterling, the 
 Government has accepted the offer, subject to the approval of Parliament. 
 The Khedive is the holder of about one hundred and seventy-seven thou- 
 sand shares out of the four hundred thousand into which the capital of the 
 company is divided. 
 
 " We have to-day to make a somewhat startling announcement. The 
 British Government has bought from the Khedive shares of the Suez Canal 
 to the amount of four million pounds sterling, and the Egyptian Government 
 is authorized to draw on Messrs. Rothschild at sight for the amount. An 
 event like this will rouse curiosity to the utmost, and let loose the flood of 
 conjecture and speculation. There is an audacity about it which we do not 
 generally associate with the acts of a British Ministry. We seem to trace 
 in the business the hand of Mr. Disraeli. While people are looking towards 
 the East in doubt and apprehension, discerning nothing but darkness and 
 trouble, political confusion and financial collapse, while they are wonder- 
 ing what is to be the end and how far England will be perforce concerned 
 in it, the Queen's Government resolves on an act which will at once fix the 
 regards of the world. No waiting for Parliament, no feeling of public 
 opinion, no mysterious hints to prepare the city and the country for some- 
 thing remarkable. The nation awakes this morning to find that it has ac- 
 quired a heavy stake in the security and well-being of another distant land, 
 and that it will be held by all the world to have entered upon a new phase 
 of Eastern policy." 
 
 Ismail Pacha, Viceroy, or Khedive, of Egypt, the con- 
 senting party to this transaction, son of Ibrahim Pasha, and 
 grandson of Mehemet Ali, was born at Cairo on the last 
 day of 1S30, was educated in Paris, and in 1855 visited 
 France on a confidential mission, which undoubtedly led 
 to the construction of the Suez Canal. The French diplo- 
 matist and engineer, Viscount de Lesseps, originated this 
 gigantic scheme in the face of the doubts and opposition of 
 the English engineers, and also against the steady hostility 
 of Lord Palmerston, then at the head of the British Gov- 
 ernment. Many difficulties, diplomatic and physical, pre- 
 vented the rapid completion of this stupendous work. The 
 
376 
 
 THE SUEZ CANAL. 
 
 Emperor Napoleon interposed his authority to hasten this 
 end, and on the 15th of August, 1869, the Canal was for- 
 mally opened at Port Said in the presence of the Empress 
 of the French, the Emperor of Austria, the Crown Prince of 
 Prussia, Prince William of Orange, the English and Russian 
 ambassadors, and many English, American, and French 
 visitors and journalists. Every subsequent year has added 
 to the importance of this great canal, and especially its 
 necessity to English commerce, being the nearest, safest, 
 and most direct way to the English possessions in India. 
 The finances of Egypt, though not so deplorably hopeless 
 as those of Turkey, were in just that position that any acci- 
 dent might tumble the whole machine into chaos, and no 
 doubt the knowledge of this fact impelled the English Minis- 
 try to begin that series of negotiations just closed in the prac- 
 tical absorption of Egypt by the British Government. In 
 one sense the acquisition of the Canal will certainly recoup 
 many English holders of Turkish and Egyptian securities, 
 the latter having largely increased in value since the publica- 
 tion of the despatch and the comments of the London Times. 
 France has been quietly shoved out of the great canal com- 
 pany, and there can be no doubt that Great Britain is to- 
 day the owner of a large number of the four hundred 
 thousand shares. 
 
 The entire English press of all parties cordially supports 
 the bold act of Mr. Disraeli and his associates. In fact, the 
 suddenness of this coup d' ' ctat left none of the newspapers 
 time to think ; they had to act at once, or to fall into the 
 rear as timid and ignorant doubters. It remains to be seen 
 what other powers will say, especially France. Judging 
 from the news from Paris this morning, the shock was far 
 greater there than even in London. Perhaps M. John 
 Lemoinne will speak again, and, judging by the unanimous 
 attack that was made upon him a few days ago in conse- 
 quence of his prophecy, he will strike still heavier blows 
 
THE SUEZ CANAL. 
 
 377 
 
 in the Journal des Debats and call forth still more angry- 
 denunciations from the English newspapers. The Times 
 boldly passes from the acquisition of the Canal itself to the 
 practical British ownership of the whole Kingdom of 
 Egypt : 
 
 " The possible results of this national investment are so large and indefi- 
 nite that it would be vain to speculate upon them, and yet they present 
 themselves persistently to the imagination. It is plain that we acquire an 
 interest in Egypt and its administration which will compel the constant 
 attention of the Queen's Government. We have purchased nearly half 
 the shares of the Suez ('anal. We are the largest proprietors, and it need 
 not be said that the others will look to us for the management of the prop- 
 erty, the protection of the common interests, and the maintenance of satis- 
 factory relations with the local Government and with the other powers of 
 the world. To this country will belong the decision on every question, 
 whether scientific, financial, or political ; administration and negotiation 
 will be in our hands, and as we have the power, so we shall have the respon- 
 sibility before the world. Add to this that we shall probably receive offers 
 of further large amounts of shares, and that the interest of the British 
 Government will inevitably tend to increase. It is evident that the position 
 of a company in which the principal proprietor is the first naval and com- 
 mercial power in the world is very different from that of a company con- 
 sisting of a multitude of sm ill French shareholders under the patronage 
 of one monster proprietor, the ruler of the land. The possession of the 
 Suez Canal is now a great political power which must be considered in all 
 discussions of the Eastern question. Any scheme derogatory to the rights 
 of the company will be met, not by a feeble body of investors, but by a 
 nation which can make its will respected, and has the strongest interest in 
 doing so. We have now an abiding stake in the security and welfare of 
 Egypt. Our possession is in the nature of things fixed and local. It will 
 grow in value with the growth of the regions in its neighborhood as well as 
 in the increase of distant traffic; and to this growth we must look in part 
 for the profit on the investment. Everything, therefore, that concerns that 
 southeastern corner of the Mediterranean becomes of importance to Eng- 
 land. The security of Egypt is part of the policy of this country. This, 
 which connects itself with the general attitude of England on the Eastern 
 question, is the first consequence of the recent act of her Majesty's Gov- 
 ernment. We feel sure that the nation will not shrink from this respon- 
 sibility, but will rather be glad to know that our policy in the East will 
 henceforth be not merely the prompting of a vague partisanship, the justice 
 of which our rivals might question, but will be based on substantial interests 
 which we have an undoubted right to maintain." 
 
 3 2 * 
 
37§ 
 
 THE SUEZ CANAL. 
 
 Every hour adds to the interest excited by this bold 
 transaction. The Suez Canal shortens the voyage to India 
 by more than five thousand miles, and this fact alone ex- 
 plains the reason why the British Government has decided 
 upon a step with such promptitude and boldness. Neither 
 press nor Parliament nor people were consulted, yet the 
 proceeding will be sustained, especially if France begins to 
 threaten, as, under all the circumstances referred to, may 
 be anticipated. The Canal itself has never been English up 
 to this time in any one of its features, either in its origin, 
 its progress, or its completion. Lord Palmerston, as I have 
 said, while at the head of the Government, set his face 
 against the whole scheme, and offered every kind of resist- 
 ance. The consequence has been, the Canal Company had 
 a legal domicile in France, where most of the money was 
 subscribed. The French courts had given judgment in all 
 disputes and the authority over the Canal was wholly vested 
 in them, and the French Commission on the Suez Canal, 
 which sat in October of 1871, declared that although Eng- 
 land used the Canal more than any other nation, still Eng- 
 land had no locus standi in the matter. It is a little 
 curious, that while several of these great newspapers rush 
 to the front in bitter denunciation of the United States, 
 because of the alleged purpose of President Grant to assume 
 the protectorate over Cuba, the British Government was 
 at that very moment of time busily engaged in providing 
 for the absorption of Egypt as a simple commercial trans- 
 action, without consulting its own people, or paying the 
 slightest attention to any of the European Governments. 
 
 LONDON, November, 1 75. 
 
MR. P. CUNLIFFE OWEN. 
 
 379 
 
 L XXXV III. 
 
 Mr. P. Cunlifie Owen, C.B. 
 
 It is quite time that the long silence in reference to the 
 resignation of P. Cunliffe Owen, Esq., Executive Commis- 
 sioner of the British Commission to Philadelphia, should 
 be broken ; first, in justice to himself, and secondly, in 
 justice to the people of England and America, who have 
 been equally startled by this wholly unexpected action. I 
 do not propose going into a full explanation of the reasons 
 which compelled him to abdicate a position in which he 
 was doing so much good. None of the causes originated 
 among the Americans, either here or in Philadelphia. The 
 whole affair has been confined within official and English 
 limits. Nor was the final action of the Government 
 prompted by the slightest question of his private integrity 
 or public fidelity. Suffice it to say that in the face of 
 instructions which must have fettered his usefulness and 
 impaired his independence he could have done nothing 
 but resign. He twice tendered his resignation to the Duke 
 of Richmond, and finally, that Minister, who is the Lord 
 President of the Privy Council, accepted it. Colonel 
 Herbert Sandford, who visited Philadelphia last spring, 
 and Professor Archer, of the British Museum at Edinburgh, 
 succeed in the management of the British section at Phila- 
 delphia. I violate no confidence when I tell you that the 
 American minister (General Schenck) and myself did every 
 thing that could properly be done to induce the declination 
 of Mr. Owen's resignation ; and in this effort we were aided 
 by prominent officials as well as by many influential Eng- 
 lishmen. Mr. Owen remains the Director of the South 
 
380 MR. P. CUNLIFFE OWEN. 
 
 Kensington Museum, and it is most gratifying to state that, 
 while he does not deny his disappointment at being unable 
 to return to Philadelphia to resume there congenial labors, 
 he still retains the deepest interest in the Centennial, and 
 will never neglect an opportunity to help us. It was very 
 natural that the news of his resignation should excite sur- 
 prise and dissatisfaction among the English exhibitors, and 
 a deputation called upon the Duke of Richmond to protest 
 against the policy which compelled Mr. Owen to retire. 
 It must not be forgotten that many Exhibitors had de- 
 cided to come to Philadelphia in consequence of Mr. 
 Owen's personal and persistent efforts. Hearing of this 
 deputation to the Duke of Richmond, Mr. Owen called 
 upon them, and stated that it was his duty and their duty 
 to continue to support the Centennial Exhibition, and 
 that the only effect of their refusing to send their con- 
 tributions would be to place the British Government in a 
 false position and to do him [Owen] a personal injury. 
 This is like the man, and it had the desired effect. The 
 following is the reply, taken from the Anglo-American 
 Times, to the deputation of British exhibitors, who called 
 upon the Duke of Richmond and asked the restoration of 
 Mr. Owen : 
 
 " A deputation of exhibitors having addressed the Lord President on 
 the subject of Mr. P. Cunliffe Owen's resignation of his appointment as 
 Executive Commissioner, the following answer was given : 
 
 " ' Education Office, 
 " ' Whitehall, 9th December, 1875. 
 
 " ' SIR : I have, as I promised to the gentlemen whom I saw here with 
 you on the 6th, and again on the 8th of December, communicated to the 
 Duke of Richmond the statements they made on behalf of themselves and 
 other intending exhibitors at Philadelphia, on the subject of Mr. Owen's 
 resignation. 
 
 "'His Grace desires me to inform you that, having the interests and 
 success of the Exhibition warmly at heart, he was very glad to obtain the 
 assistance of Mr. Owen as chief executive officer of the British section. 
 
MR. r. CUNLTFFE OWEN. 381 
 
 He is fully aware of the confidence reposed in Mr. Owen, both by the 
 directors of former Exhibitions and by those who took part in them as ex- 
 hibitors, and therefore regrets he has been compelled to accept Mr. Owen's 
 resignation. 
 
 " ' His Grace is himself personally directing the business of the British 
 section, in the hope and with the express view of securing for it a brilliant 
 success; and he thinks himself fortunate in having been able to secure the 
 services of two gentlemen in whom he has the fullest confidence. One of 
 these, Colonel Sandford, R.A., who was employed in the Exhibition of 
 1862, was appointed official delegate to represent the British section in 
 America, at the express request of Mr. Owen, under whom he has been 
 acting ever since the exhibition. He is, therefore, acquainted with all the 
 preliminary steps that have been taken in connection with the exhibition. 
 His colleague, Professor Archer, as is well known to the leading exhibitors, 
 has taken a prominent part in various capacities in the principal interna- 
 tional exhibitions held of late years in Europe, and is thoroughly familiar 
 with all the details of these undertakings. 
 
 " 'The Lord President is very confident that the interests of the Exhibi- 
 tion, and of the British exhibitors, have been entrusted to the officers who, 
 under his own supervision, will be both able and willing to promote the 
 success which it is his Grace's earnest desire to secure. I am, etc., 
 
 "'J. R. Sandford. 
 
 " ' A. B. DANIELL, Esq., 46 Wigmore Street, Cavendish Square, W.' " 
 
 The same journal editorially says, — 
 
 " Mr. Cunliffe Owen, C.B., has resigned, to the profound surprise and 
 disappointment of Philadelphia. The Commissioners desire the reconsid- 
 eration of this movement, in view of Mr. Owen's experience in exhibitions, 
 ami his known value as an executive officer. There appear, however, to 
 be strong reasons against the President of the Council acceding to the 
 wish expressed by the Commissioners, of which he may be the better judge. 
 Yet it is to be deplored that there should have been a misunderstanding, 
 culminating, too, in what is little less than a catastrophe. The Duke of 
 Richmond has filled the vacancy with Mr. Archer, well known to art in 
 Scotland, the chief executive officer being Colonel Sandford, R.A., who pro- 
 ceeds immediately to Philadelphia, while the Duke will himself superintend 
 the arrangements in England. The number of British exhibitors appears 
 to be in the neighborhood of seven hundred — of course excluding the Col- 
 onies, which will be more fully represented than ever before. The names 
 include many of the best known manufacturers of the United Kingdom, 
 and we feel assured that they will have no reason to repent the step. 
 Indeed, it was those who hung fire till too late who have to be condoled 
 
3 82 
 
 MR. P. CUNLIFFE OWEN. 
 
 with. Since this was in type we have received the Duke of Richmond's 
 reply to the deputation of exhibitors who addressed his Grace on the sub- 
 ject of Mr. Owen's resignation, which will be found under our heading of 
 ' Centennial News.' " 
 
 It will also gratify Mr. Owen's friends in America to know 
 that he will use all his influence to encourage and confirm 
 the Continental exhibitors to the Centennial. I can per- 
 sonally testify that there was not a Government authority 
 on the Continent which did not, when I called in reference 
 to our International Exhibition, refer to Mr. Owen's ex- 
 perience and energy as essential to the general enterprise. 
 He had met the commissioners of all the nations at Paris 
 and Vienna, and it was as natural for them to look to him 
 while making preparations for Philadelphia for 1876, as it 
 was for him to send forward his own suggestions, either 
 voluntarily or in response to their requests. It gives me 
 pleasure to add, as you will perceive from the letter of the 
 Duke of Richmond's secretary in reply to the British ex- 
 hibitors, that his Grace pledges himself to make every ex- 
 ertion, so far as Great Britain is concerned, so that while 
 losing the direct influence of Mr. Owen we shall have the 
 more emphatic action on the part of the new agencies 
 appointed by the Government. 
 
 London, December, 1875. 
 
" THE TIMES." 3S3 
 
 LXXXIX. 
 
 " The Times." 
 
 Nothing marks the broad difference between the public 
 sentiment of Great Britain to-day and say fifteen years 
 ago in regard to the United States than the tone of the 
 London newspapers, and especially The Times. That 
 journal is now as fair and intelligent in its discussion of 
 American subjects as it was unfair and reckless before and 
 during our civil war. There are a fulness and a fidelity in 
 its editorials — a noble impersonality and dignity — which, 
 while exciting my admiration and surprise, are cherished 
 as models of composition and examples for imitation. A 
 friend of mine has presented me a file of The Times during 
 the Rebellion, which I often read, not alone because of 
 the contrast between the comments then and those of the 
 present time by the same paper on our country, but because 
 it seems impossible that the two conditions of thought and 
 opinion should appear in the same paper. The Times takes 
 in the whole range of European politics, morals, religion, 
 and science ; not in long essays a week after the special 
 event has happened, but at once, so that a telegram re- 
 ceived the night before of a battle in Herzegovina, an elec- 
 tion in Paris, a princely progress in India, a Turkish or 
 Egyptian default, a German debate, a Roman decree — is 
 the next morning treated with elaborate facts and in a style 
 of commanding eloquence. And now the United States 
 has attained the position of a leading subject in the same 
 great journal. Not less than three times a week is this 
 subject discussed in its many-sided aspects. There is no 
 partisanship apparent. The scales are held with even bal- 
 
384 " the times:' 
 
 ance and steady hands. The Times has shown strong sym- 
 pathies with our Southern people, and yet within the last ten 
 days it has twice, with great emphasis, while commenting 
 upon the late debate in our National House of Representa- 
 tives on the universal amnesty bill, referred to the wholly 
 unprecedented clemency of the victorious Government to 
 the men who attempted its overthrow under such dreadful 
 and tragical circumstances. Not less candid was its view 
 of the position of General Grant's Administration on the 
 Cuban question, a view which showed what England would 
 do with such a nuisance near its borders as an endless and 
 bloody insurrection. This reiterated judgment of The 
 Times has mortified the local vanity and sounded like an 
 unalterable verdict to Spain and the Continent. This 
 same great journal has come to consider free trade as a 
 fair topic for manly difference, in view of the depression 
 of manufacturing at home and the loud cry for "protec- 
 tion" in Canada and other British colonies. 
 
 Established the 1st of January, 1788, by the grandfather 
 and namesake of the present proprietor, Mr. John Walter, it 
 has become the conceded leader not alone of public opinion, 
 but the feeder of a whole realm of other journals, daily, 
 weekly, and monthly. It receives the first news of the 
 action of the Government, because it really dominates 
 and moulds public sentiment by its impartiality, and not 
 because it flatters power. But let it not be said that The 
 Times abuses the Government ; it abuses nobody, and is as 
 free from a foul word as it is from a deliberate misstate- 
 ment. It simply speaks out in manly and courteous terms 
 on all topics, and is open to conviction from others, as it 
 is free to condemnation of them. Its immense wealth and 
 opportunities give it, of course, enormous influence, but it 
 deserves to be said of its present management, at least, 
 that these rare advantages are rarely abused, and certainly 
 that with all its gigantic means it never descends to the 
 
" THE TIMES." 385 
 
 artifices of the newspaper bully or speaks of an adversary 
 in the slang of the streets. It lias its side; it is conserva- 
 tive to the core, and yet, while it takes issue with Mr. 
 Bright or Mr. Gladstone, it does not hesitate to take issue 
 also at times with Mr. Disraeli or Lord Derby. It is in 
 favor of the restoration of the Empire in France, and 
 yet it treats Gambetta and the Republicans with almost 
 knightly consideration. To-day it prints articles in favor of 
 putting vvorkingmen on English juries, and its leader this 
 morning on the "Centennial" is only one of many of 
 equal ability. This utterance is not so much that of the 
 Government as of the English people, and I am sure it will 
 give a certain satisfaction to our own countrymen. The in- 
 telligence that Congress would pass the one million five 
 hundred thousand dollar appropriation came in simulta- 
 neous with the news that all obstacles to foreign exhibitors 
 had been removed by the Treasury Department at Washing- 
 ton, which has been followed by an increase of British 
 exhibitors and by more enthusiasm among all classes. If 
 our modern American statesmen could understand how 
 closely their votes are watched and how carefully their 
 words are weighed on this side of the Atlantic, they would 
 be wiser than they seem to be at this distance. They will, 
 however, realize in a short time that the best amnesty bill 
 of the age is the Centennial Commemoration, and that no 
 money is half so well expended as that lately given to the 
 Centennial Commissioners. 
 London, January, 1876. 
 
 R 33 
 
386 QUEEN VICTORIA OPENS PARLIAMENT. 
 
 XC. 
 
 Queen Victoria opens the Parliamentary Session of 1876. 
 
 A subdued glitter of bronze, gold, and red, with the throne 
 at one end — or, as we would call it, the speaker's chair — 
 and a gallery at the other, running deep from the back 
 wall, while around the two sides of the chamber is one 
 tier of seats — the House of Lords is always impressive ; 
 but this afternoon as I looked upon the scene preparatory 
 to the entrance of Queen Victoria to open the British Par- 
 liament, the first time since 1S71, it was strangely interest- 
 ing to me. I had seen this gorgeous hall before, and I had 
 also seen her Majesty, but I had never enjoyed the oppor- 
 tunity of a royal opening of the British Legislature. The 
 House of Lords is an oblong square, not so large, I think, 
 as our own Senate Hall, and six hundred people would fill 
 it. To secure a ticket for this occasion was like winning 
 a prize in a lottery, and as mine was a sort of farewell 
 before going home, I utilized it by putting in my appear- 
 ance precisely at one o'clock. I took a hansom cab from 
 my hotel, and ordered the driver to take me to the north 
 gallery of the House of Lords. The distance was not a 
 mile, but the people had turned out en masse to greet 
 her Majesty, and the streets in all directions were packed. 
 Over three thousand policemen were organized to hold 
 this fearful multitude in check, while regiments of horse 
 and foot were in read'iness to punish any violence. A 
 London mob is not more significant than the prepara- 
 tions of the (Government to put it down. This vast con- 
 course was waiting for the royal procession with a wonder- 
 ful quiet and good temper. The windows and doorways 
 
QUEEN VICTORIA OPENS PARLIAMENT. 387 
 
 were filled with spectators at a guinea a seat, while the 
 walks were black with the populace, with the police and 
 soldiers before them in double walls of staves, swords, and 
 muskets. 
 
 After passing between files of guards and Parliamentary 
 officials, I found myself in the north gallery, facing a blaze 
 of peers and peeresses, churchmen and judges, statesmen, 
 soldiers, and courtiers. I was a little late, and the cham- 
 ber seemed to be nearly full. My first impression was a 
 mingling of white and crimson ; then a sense of oaken 
 roofs and panels, and through all an incense of flowers and 
 antiquity. The stained windows at the sides, the Scrip- 
 tural paintings at the opposite or throne end, where the 
 Queen's chair was waiting for her with the royal robes 
 thrown over it — all under a sort of religious mist to me in 
 the half-twilight of this expectant hour. Gradually I 
 began to pick out the people from this maze and color 
 with the aid of a polite Englishman at my side. But he 
 bewildered me with his knowledge of the great people 
 before me. He was an abridged peerage, especially when 
 he discovered I was an American. I confess I am so much 
 of a republican that I soon got tired of his painful itera- 
 tion, till suddenly the twilight was lost in a sudden blaze 
 of gas from ten burners, each in the shape of a crown, 
 pendant from the vaulted roof of the noble oblong square. 
 Then I could see in the midst of the response of glad sur- 
 prise always awakened by a quick burst of light that nearly 
 all this bright audience was composed of women, and that 
 the men were few and far between. Along the lower floor 
 the raised seats of the peers were occupied by their wives 
 and daughters, and the middle oaken tables of the Ministry 
 were crowded with canonical bishops and pages. 
 
 The Queen is memorably and militarily punctual, and 
 the few minutes before the appointed hour of two soon 
 passed, at almost the exact moment of which she entered, 
 
3S8 QUEEN VICTORIA OPENS PARLIAMENT. 
 
 accompanied by the Princess of Wales (the Prince, her 
 heir-apparent husband, being in India), the Duchess of 
 Edinburgh, the Princess- Louise of Lome, the Princess 
 Beatrice, the Duke and Duchess Mary of Teck, and others. 
 The ladies in the audience had been previously notified 
 that when her Majesty came in their shawls should be re- 
 moved, and when the royal cortege came we had a display 
 of busts of all ages. There was no prayer, no guns or 
 drums, no choir, no anthem. As her Majesty advanced 
 the whole audience rose, and as she ascended the throne 
 she bowed in response, when the company nestled down 
 with obedient grace. She is a smaller woman than I ex- 
 pected, dressed in black and gold, aged fifty-seven, and 
 evidently accustomed to command. There was a long 
 pause to allow the Commons to come in under the back 
 gallery. Then the Chancellor (Lord Cairns) handed to the 
 Queen a roll of paper on which the "Speech from the 
 Throne" was written. Her Majesty slightly bowed and 
 returned it to him, with the request, not audible but under- 
 stood, that he would read it. This he did, standing close 
 to the throne, and was very audible. This done, the Queen 
 rose and bowed again, and with her ladies and gentlemen 
 retired, after which the spectators took their leave, and 
 the members of the House proceeded to the work of ap- 
 proving or amending the royal speech. 
 
 It is clear that this state document, really a ministerial 
 manifesto, is a remarkable concession to liberal ideas. No 
 one can stay in London for a year without seeing that the 
 English Government can no longer be administered in the 
 Tory interest. Great questions lie in the immediate future 
 — perhaps great troubles. An overcrowded population, a 
 loud clamor for popular education, a demand for more 
 markets, for manufactures, and more wages for the work- 
 men, the monopoly of the lands by the nobility (that old 
 thunderbolt just re-launched by John Bright), the foolish 
 
WESTON THE PEDESTRIAN. 
 
 389 
 
 Slave circular of the present Ministry, the purchase of the 
 shares in the Suez Canal, the complications in Turkey, the 
 impatience of the peoples of India, where two hundred 
 millions of natives are held in subjugation by sixty thousand 
 foreign soldiers, and last, not least, the increasing restive- 
 ness of the people in consequence of the enlightened and 
 independent press — all these are questions or troubles that 
 demand attention. As I passed out of the north gallery 
 of the House of Lords, and once more beheld the enor- 
 mous multitude, held back by a resolute constabulary and 
 ready military reserves, I felt that England was fortunate 
 in having a woman for a monarch, and that the gentle 
 ministrations which saved the world from a war between 
 England and America twelve years ago may be the surest 
 medicine for the evils, secret and open, which threaten 
 the Commonwealth of Great Britain. 
 London, February 8, 1876. 
 
 XCI. 
 
 Weston the Pedestrian. 
 
 There has been a little excitement in London, within 
 the last few days, owing to the friendly challenge of 
 Edward Payson Weston, the American pedestrian, to walk 
 the greatest number of miles for twenty-four consecutive 
 hours, addressed to Mr. William Perkins, the English 
 champion, who accepted it with the declaration that Eng- 
 land was behind no other nation in athletic accomplish- 
 ments, and particularly in the matter of pedestrianism. 
 The prize was a handsome silver cup to the declared 
 winner, and the match began on Tuesday, February 8, at 
 9.25 p.m. The place selected was the vast Agricultural 
 
 33* 
 
39° 
 
 WESTON THE PEDESTRIAN. 
 
 Hall at Islington, where the great cattle-shows are annually 
 held, and where Moody and Sankey held their monster 
 religious festivals alternately with their colossal assemblies 
 at Covent Garden Theatre. It is a hall as large or larger 
 than the depots at Broad and Prime and Thirty-second and 
 Market Streets, Philadelphia, equal to the accommodation 
 of thirty thousand people, around which two oblong circles 
 were set apart, one for the Englishman, the other for the 
 American. At first Weston wore a velvet coat, jaunty hat, 
 and white kid gloves, with top-boots of thin patent-leather, 
 and carried a thin riding-whip in his hand. The com- 
 petitors never met till after the Englishman had accepted 
 the challenge of the American, and it was interesting to 
 note the early confidence of our British cousins as they felt 
 sure of success. 
 
 Muscular philosophy is one of the cherished institutions 
 of these populous islands. To ride, to hunt, to run, to 
 yacht, to jump, to punt, and, above all, to walk, not to 
 say to rink, which, like the spelling-bees, is copied from 
 our American example, and is now called j-inki/alisjn (to 
 the horror of the High Churchman), are dear to the Eng- 
 lish man or woman. I have seen athletic young England, 
 red-faced, red-necked, red-handed, fearlessly fresh from 
 some terrific encounter with stormy weather on land and 
 sea, walking through the parlors of the great, as proud of 
 their rough complexions and their pugilistic encounters, 
 their running with the hounds and hunting with the hares, 
 as if they had just come in from some victorious battle. 
 Thus they cluster to every physical competition with far 
 more readiness than they gather to a ball or theatre. It 
 must be added that these young Orsons are the preferred 
 favorites of the gentler sex, who, in their turn, are them- 
 selves proud of riding with. the hounds, at the risk of their 
 fair anatomies. So, when John Bull and Brother Jonathan 
 met at Islington, it was no wonder that John anticipated 
 
WESTON THE PEDESTRIAN. 
 
 59 1 
 
 an easy triumph over Jonathan. What made them natu- 
 rally confident was the announcement early on the morning 
 of Wednesday that the former had outwalked the latter. 
 "You see, my friend," was the expression of one of my 
 English visitors, " our superiority in athletics is an in- 
 herited virtue. It comes from our climate as well as our 
 ancestors. It is a part of our education, and accounts for 
 our big men and women ; in fact, from our Saxon origin. 
 Yours is the race of admixtures. We can admit the fragile 
 beauty of your ladies, and the elasticity of your men, but 
 you know that ours is a permanent population, and yours 
 necessarily short-lived and evanescent. Perkins is the tried 
 hero of pedestrianism, and he will give Weston not only 
 fair play, but beat him like a gentleman." 
 
 To all this courteous boasting I listened with due hu- 
 mility, and about eight o'clock took a hansom and drove 
 out to Islington to stand by my countryman in his threat- 
 ened defeat. One of my acquaintances quietly remarked 
 that it would not be a very agreeable experience to get in 
 as a witness to the failure of Mr. Weston ; but with a cer- 
 tain old-fashioned notion that he is the best friend who 
 stands by you in your hour of distress, I accompanied our 
 American minister, and without knowing anything of the 
 progress of the walk, we got into the building about half- 
 past eight to find that the Englishman, Mr. Perkins, had 
 broken down after he had completed but sixty-five miles, 
 while Weston in the last half of his twenty-fourth hour 
 was followed by cheering crowds of English and Ameri- 
 cans, the band playing enlivening airs. There was some- 
 thing impressive in the scene, although the throng was not 
 quite so genteel as that I had seen in the House of Lords 
 when her Gracious Majesty opened the British Parliament. 
 Here we saw the better side of John Bull ; the confidence 
 of the morning in his own triumph gave way to the candor 
 of his admission of defeat. As the light young American, 
 
39 2 
 
 WESTON THE PEDESTRIAN. 
 
 with head erect and quick, elastic step, passed round the 
 oblong circle, he was greeted with " Hurrah for the Yan- 
 kee ; go it, Brother Jonathan," and "God bless him, he 
 belongs to us anyhow!" Lightly built, agile, pale, and 
 firm, with a bright, flashing eye, he looked a sort of young 
 Antinous. He saw and recognized us, and with a flash of 
 glad and grateful welcome, repeatedly kissed his hand to 
 us as he passed. When he finished his one hundred and 
 nine miles in twenty-four hours he quietly put on his black 
 velvet coat of the morning and again passed round several 
 times amid the applauding shouts of the multitude. 
 
 I need not dwell upon the feat of twenty-four consecu- 
 tive hours' walking, with scarcely any rest, but I can see 
 that our English cousins are readjusting their spectacles 
 and begin to realize that we are not a race of little red- 
 legged Frenchmen, or a community of dwindling mongrels. 
 As we passed out of the great hall and heard the band and 
 the shouts of the honest crowds, I could not help asking an 
 American friend whether the lamented James Buchanan, 
 while minister to England, with his chilling white cravat, 
 or Charles Francis Adams robed in his cold ancestral man- 
 tle, would have gone out like Robert C. Schenck to mingle 
 with the boisterous and somewhat perilous British crowd to 
 offer comfort to a young American stranger in London, in 
 the hour of his expected defeat, with no hope of his over- 
 whelming triumph. 
 
 London, February, 1876. 
 
THE CHANGE IN BRITISH FEELING. 
 
 593 
 
 XCII. 
 
 The Change in British Feeling. 
 
 There have been spring, autumn, and winter — all in 
 twenty-four hours. Such is frequently the division of an 
 English day. When I left London for Liverpool (Feb- 
 ruary 13, 1876) the streets at 2.40 p.m. were as dry as if it 
 had never rained, the sun was out in exceptional splendor, 
 and there was an April odor in the air. A warm good-by 
 from a party of dear English and American friends who 
 met me at the Midland Railway station, followed by a 
 grateful farewell response, left me seated in a comfortable 
 carriage, on my way to spend a few parting days with a 
 hospitable Liverpool family, before taking the steamer 
 Indiana for Philadelphia, after an absence of nearly twenty 
 months. Before we had got half-way — Liverpool is about 
 two hundred and fifty miles from London — the atmosphere 
 got cold enough to make me wish for the tin foot-warmers 
 (there are no stoves or fires in the English carriages), and 
 in the dusk I saw the ground white with snow, which was 
 deep when we reached the station" at Liverpool at nine p.m. 
 Such is winter in England. The snow melts in a few hours, 
 and then comes an alterative of damp, succeeded by rain, 
 or a burst of sunshine that soon dries the pavements and 
 the highways. These climatic eccentricities are far from 
 healthy to the unaccustomed traveller or sojourner, but they 
 make the English robust. To face the rain and the fog 
 is part of the English education; to walk in all weathers 
 is almost a part of the English religion, but to live in cold 
 houses is a habit which the American rarely acquires, no 
 matter how long he lives here. He shivers as he tries 
 
 R* 
 
394 
 
 THE CHANGE IN BRITISH FEELING. 
 
 to gather warmth from their small grates, and longs for the 
 heated rooms of his distant home as he watches his Eng- 
 lish cousins radiant after their long walks, defiant of cold. 
 From May till September there is no country in the world 
 so delightful as England, with its moderate heat and long 
 days, but from November to March it is a trying and often 
 an unhealthy interval. Our own frequent fierce summers 
 and our frequent fierce winters are happily varied by the 
 sweet months of May and June and the protracted glory of 
 our Indian summer, and England has no such alternations 
 as the American California, or Florida, or White Moun- 
 tains, — those delicious pauses, where you can enjoy cool 
 breezes in the hottest July or an equal warmth (without the 
 fitful chills of the Mediterranean resorts) in the coldest 
 January, or the unsurpassed Oriental climate and produc- 
 tions lasting through the most of the year, all within easy 
 range by rail, and all in the same country. You reach 
 them untroubled by change of cars, or currency, or tariffs, 
 or language. You sleep and eat in your own flying parlor, 
 with no care of baggage to worry you, and when you 
 arrive at your destination you find your traps in your bed- 
 room at the hotel where you stop. These things will be 
 seen by our stranger friends in a few more weeks, and I will 
 leave them to decide between the two systems. 
 
 Liverpool, with its seven hundred thousand inhabitants, 
 is as different from London as Pittsburgh is from Phila- 
 delphia. It is quite stirred by the interest in the near-at- 
 hand International Centennial Exhibition. The municipal 
 Corporation has just decided, in response to the request of 
 the Duke of Richmond, to send over its splendid pictures 
 of the Death of Rienzi and the trial of Julian the Apostate. 
 Many interesting exhibits will be sent from Liverpool, 
 representing many varieties of art and manufactures. 
 
 Time has dealt wonderfully with Liverpool. Its growth 
 fairly baffles the science of figures, and not more impressive 
 
THE CHANGE IN BRITISH EEELEXG. 
 
 395 
 
 sermons were ever preached than the increase of shipping, 
 cotton, grain, gold, and iron as illustrated chiefly at Liver- 
 pool. In 1840 there were in the whole Kingdom 414 
 steamers of all grades, with a tonnage of 108,321, and 8446 
 men employed; in 1874 there were 2946 steamers, with a 
 tonnage of 1,827,624, and 74,873 men. The imports of 
 cotton rose from 59,248,800 pounds to 1,566,864,432 in 
 1874; the exports from ^38,673,229 10^258,967,632. 
 Of different varieties of wheat and corn there were im- 
 ported into Great Britain from 1840 to 1S74 1,641,962.16 
 cut. The imports of gold in fourteen years, from i860 to 
 1S74, were ^30,379,188. Most of these articles came 
 through the port of Liverpool. 
 
 Still more suggestive is the improvement in the senti- 
 ments of the people. When our war broke out, early in 
 1 S6 r , Liverpool, with a few memorable exceptions, was 
 entirely in the hands of the pro-slavery men. Society and 
 commerce were completely in their power. The North 
 was doubly disliked because it was rapidly becoming the 
 rival of England in manufactures. The South supplied 
 the cotton and favored free trade. The cotton-dealers 
 came to Liverpool like princes on their travels. They 
 were courted by the best people, and in return gave exag- 
 gerated ideas of Southern superiority and Northern igno- 
 rance and inferiority. Comparatively few had ever seen 
 the North save through the travelling buyers for great mer- 
 chants at home. When the first cannon of rebellion was 
 fired, Liverpool echoed it with her sympathy, her ships, her 
 press, and her money ; and so loud was the roar of hostility 
 to the Union that the few brave men who stood up for it 
 were in frequent peril. But now all is changed. There is 
 American cotton sufficient for the vast consumption of 
 England and the world, but it is made by free men and 
 not by slaves — by men who work for themselves, and not 
 for those who never worked in their lives. The cotton 
 
39 6 
 
 THE CHANGE IN BRITISH FEELING. 
 
 lords are deposed, and the cotton trade is in the hands of 
 fair men of business, who do not deal in politics as a part 
 of their ventures, nor insist on selling their principles with 
 their products. Liverpool society and commerce, the great 
 men of the cotton and corn combinations, at last recog- 
 nize that it was best for America, for England, and for the 
 world, that American slavery should die. Northern men 
 are now as welcome in the houses of the rich and well- 
 born class as their Southern brethren were before the war ; 
 and, indeed, Northern ideas are seen in the local struggles 
 for education, for better houses for the poor, for higher 
 wages, and for enlarged suffrage. 
 
 In July of 1874 the very name of the Centennial was 
 unknown to the mass of the people of Liverpool. Now it 
 is the topic of the town, and the artists and mechanics, 
 etc., to be at Philadelphia, are only the beginning of a 
 better and closer and wider assimilation. 
 
 Much of this state of things is to be credited to the 
 presence as American consuls at Liverpool since 1861 of 
 two such men as Thomas H. Dudley, of New Jersey, and 
 Lucius Fairchild, of Wisconsin. We must not blame the 
 people of Liverpool if, under the circumstances I have 
 referred to, they preferred the South to the North during 
 our civil war, especially when the other fact is stated that 
 for many years most of our diplomatic and consular agents 
 in Europe were men wholly pledged to the interests and 
 opinions of the South, and whose business or pleasure it 
 was to keep alive the .strife of our sections at home and to 
 hold up the American anti-slavery leaders as agitators and 
 demagogues. 
 
 Sitting in the office of Consul Fairchild a few hours each 
 day before I started, I recall d my own relation to this 
 consulate. Nineteen years ago, in this very month of 
 February, James Buchanan, President elect, offered me 
 this very Liverpool consulate, when it was worth four times 
 
THE CHANGE IN BRITISH FEELING. 
 
 397 
 
 its present value, which is six thousand dollars per year. 
 It had always been the choice plum of past Administra- 
 tions, and set apart for the favorites of power as their best 
 opportunity. President Polk sent the amiable General 
 Robert Armstrong, of Tennessee, and President Pierce 
 sent out the gifted Nathaniel Hawthorne, of New Hamp- 
 shire, both of them their warm personal friends. I claim 
 no credit for promptly declining Mr. Buchanan's offer, 
 and I never blamed him for making it. I believe that if, 
 for any office, I had left my country just in the beginning 
 of the struggle against Slavery, I should have been false 
 to my pledge in 1856, when I worked to make him Presi- 
 dent ; and he, no doubt, decided it was best to get me out 
 of the way. No doubt both of us were sincere. I know 
 I was, and he had every reason for being equally so. 
 
 While General Fairchild — you will recollect he lost his 
 left arm at Gettysburg on the 3d of July, 1863 — was talk- 
 ing about this incident and the possible results to myself 
 if I had come to Liverpool in 1S57, a tall, sunburnt man 
 walked in, and after a warm welcome from the consul he 
 was presented to me as Captain John Short, of Bangor, 
 Maine, just arrived with his ship, a sailing vessel, from a 
 long southward voyage. I found him intelligent and ob- 
 serving — a fair specimen of the New England seaman, 
 proud of his calling and of his country. He had paid off 
 his crew a few days before, and was waiting for a return 
 cargo. " It was vain, General," he said to Mr. Fairchild, 
 " for me to plead to them to take care of their money, 
 which was a considerable sum to each. They will all be 
 without a cent in a day or two. The soberest and best 
 sailor on board ship cannot resist the allurements on shore 
 for an hour." — " Is this rule universal ?" I asked. " I am 
 sorry to say it is — the few exceptions only go to prove it." 
 — " What is the proportion of Americans among the sailors 
 of the mercantile or trading service ?" — " Not five per cent. 
 
398 THE CHANGE IN BRITISH FEELING. 
 
 — no, not three. You see our boys look higher, and you 
 never find an American among our crews, unless he enters 
 himself before the mast, that he may rise to be second mate, 
 and finally captain and part owner of the vessel he com- 
 mands. But for the Italians, Portuguese, French, and Ger- 
 mans we should be in a sad plight; how they spend and 
 save I have told you." I need not point the moral of this 
 story. 
 
 Now (February 16) the time has come to take my place 
 among the passengers of the steamer Indiana, which lies 
 waiting in the Mersey, a short distance from the magnifi- 
 cent "Landing Stage," or moving wharf, a splendid trophy 
 of the greatness of Liverpool, on whose magnificent docks an 
 aggregate sum of three hundred millions of dollars has been 
 expended. The tug that carries us to the American steamer 
 performs her office in a few minutes, and we pass to the 
 upper deck to receive the welcome of Arthur H. Clark, the 
 commander. She had rested in port for two weeks, and 
 had undergone a complete renovation. She looked almost 
 as bright and fresh as if she had been painted for the first 
 time ; her decks white and ultra clean ; her parlors and 
 staterooms newly carpeted and varnished ; the spacious 
 dining-room shining under the double polish of its wain- 
 scoting of American wood and Philadelphia brasses — even 
 the old flag at the fore seemed to be new. For one, at 
 least, I felt that I was at home, or auspiciously on my way 
 to family and friends. 
 
 This is the twelfth round voyage, or twenty-fourth pas- 
 sage, of the Indiana since December of 1874, at which 
 time Captain Clark assumed command. She has not had 
 one accident, but like her three sisters, the Ohio, the 
 Illinois, and the Pennsylvania, has had almost invari- 
 able good luck, if we except the catastrophe to the latter 
 in February of 1873, when, after losing her captain and 
 three of her other officers, she survived a terrible tern- 
 
HOME WA RD B O UND. 
 
 399 
 
 pest, and was brought into our port by Mr. Brady. Pray 
 heaven we may escape the perils of the deep on our home- 
 ward way ! 
 
 At Sea, February, 1S76. 
 
 XCIII. 
 
 Homeward Bound. 
 
 On board the Indiana I meet Colonel Herbert Bruce 
 Sand ford, one of the two new Commissioners of the British 
 section of the Centennial Exhibition, in connection with 
 his associate, Professor T. C. Archer (already on the 
 ground), on his way to take full command. He is accom- 
 panied by his immediate staff — Mr. Hodgkinson (finance), 
 Mr. Charrington (correspondence), and Mr. Brett (India) 
 — and by one Government Messenger, two non-commis- 
 sioned officers of the Royal Engineers, two sergeants, eight 
 men of the London Metropolitan Police, and two carpen- 
 ters. With what force there is already on the ground, and 
 what is to come, the British organization at the Exhibition 
 will amount to about fifty men in all. Amiable, intelligent, 
 receptive, and energetic, Colonel Sandford is certain to 
 become popular. He enters into his work with his whole 
 soul ; and having once tasted of America, he returns to us 
 eager to prove himself worthy of the high trust reposed in 
 him by his Government. 
 
 Pages could be filled with details of European interest 
 in the Exhibition. The Ladies' Pavilion attracts much 
 attention in London, and many interesting objects will be 
 sent to it by the women of Europe Emily Faithfull is 
 actively sympathetic. Miss E. Thompson, the artist, whose 
 
4oo 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 beautiful painting of the "Roll Call" has suddenly made 
 her famous, is engaged on a splendid picture for the Pavil- 
 ion, and I was told before I left of some exquisite speci- 
 mens of fine needlework about to be contributed to the 
 same institution. The women's movement in England, 
 and indeed all over the Continent, has received great en- 
 couragement from the tact and energy of Mrs. Gillespie 
 and her associates in Philadelphia, and their example is 
 daily honored in generous assistance from these distant sis- 
 ters. The women's departments at the Crystal Palace, at the 
 Alexandra Palace, and at the South Kensington Museum, 
 are worthy of a great nation. Here all the arts are taught 
 to all classes, high and low. Practical experience in do- 
 mestic life is conveyed to the highest to fit them for the 
 future. The abject are raised from their degradation by 
 other agencies ; the poor are shown new paths to self-de- 
 pendence, and the well-born and the nobility are forced 
 to consider their duties to others as well as themselves. 
 These influences are a loftier education — a broader science 
 than that of the ordinary schools — and it is easy to see 
 that the wonderful women's Centennial organization, with 
 its latest expression in the Centennial Exhibition, should 
 awaken a new and livelier interest in the labors of a coun 
 try which awards to women the superior advantage of the 
 chivalric devotion of the men, and superior advantages for 
 social improvement at the hands of our National and State 
 Governments. Both systems reflect their brightest sides 
 upon each other, and while we gather food for imitation 
 from the museums of England, we offer in return the les- 
 sons of the individual endowment of a 'Scotch brewer, 
 Matthew Vassar, at Schenectady, New York, for the ex- 
 clusive education of women, and the unexampled spectacle 
 of the facilities offered by the people and government of 
 New England and other States for the special preparation 
 of women for the cares and duties of life. The Cooper 
 
HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 401 
 
 Institute, of New York, founded by the illustrious Peter 
 Cooper, and now admirably administered by himself, his 
 son, and his son-in-law, Mr. Abraham S. Hewett (one of 
 the Centennial Commissioners), where thousands of poor 
 girls are provided with the means of useful learning, is 
 perhaps the most perfect product of a system peculiar to 
 our better civilization ; while that model work, the Girls' 
 High School of Philadelphia (which I dare to say lias 
 no parallel in any other country), and the female colleges 
 of Ohio and the West, and the seminaries founded by in- 
 dividuals or by the States, in which both sexes are taught 
 alike and at the lowest rates, needed only some such 
 new recognition as that offered by the Ladies' Pavilion to 
 nationalize and internationalize the great mission for the 
 education and elevation of women. Mrs. Gillespie, Miss 
 Mary McHenry, and their sisters have builded better than 
 they knew. 
 
 As an indication of Colonel Sandford's efforts to help the 
 Exhibition in Europe, I have his permission to refer to a 
 publication which is shortly to appear in the European 
 papers explaining the preparations for the carriage and ac- 
 commodation of our guests. This is the great question, 
 and it is pleasing to see that the British delegate has met 
 it in away so direct. The article states that the subject of 
 taking care of visitors was begun by a survey of the city 
 of Philadelphia, from which it appeared that there are one 
 hundred and twenty-seven thousand houses in Philadelphia ; 
 that with the favor of the Centennial Commissioners and 
 the co-operation of the four great steam lines running into 
 the city (the Philadelphia and Reading, the Philadelphia, 
 Wilmington and Baltimore, the North Pennsylvania, and 
 the Pennsylvania Central), canvassers were sent out to the 
 several wards and districts, who reported that they had 
 secured fifteen thousand bed-chambers in private and 
 boarding houses, and that each proprietor of each room 
 
 34* 
 
402 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 or house had agreed to accept the schedule of the Cen- 
 tennial Lodging-house Company, who have undertaken 
 this gigantic task. This company gives to the holder a 
 bed-room, an American breakfast (the details of which are 
 carefully adjusted), supper, and attendance. The guests 
 will find their dinners outside, and doubtless generally in 
 the Exhibition Grounds. All this for a payment of two 
 dollars to two dollars and fifty Cents per day. The traffic 
 managers of the four railways and Mr. Jenkins (a native 
 Pennsylvanian, of the firm of Messrs. Cook, Son, & Jen- 
 kins) are on the Directory of the plan, which cannot fail 
 to work well. Before the trains get to Philadelphia an 
 agent of the Directory will pass through the trains and call 
 out "Coupons!" and the traveller who has previously 
 provided himself with one will at once be sent to the room 
 he is to live in, the house and the street, and the street-car 
 by which he is to reach it. The baggage clerk will receive 
 the brass check of the stranger, if he is willing, who will 
 be troubled no more till he reaches his quarters in Phila- 
 delphia. Colonel Sandford goes on to tell his European 
 audience that the old hotels of Philadelphia have increased 
 their capacity fifty per cent. " To understand the railway 
 accommodations," says this interesting paper, "it must be 
 stated that the peninsula on which Philadelphia stands is 
 intersected longitudinally on Broad Street, fourteen and a 
 half miles long, and transversely by Washington Avenue, 
 which extends from the Delaware to the Schuylkill." The 
 two steam railways running to the Exhibition Grcunds have 
 stations in the very heart of the city, from which trains will 
 run to and from Fairmount Park at intervals of a few min- 
 utes, as with the London and Metropolitan and District 
 railways. The street-cars are an institution, the stations 
 are central, and there are numerous lines to the Exhibition 
 Grounds. It is proposed to run one car a minute, making 
 three hundred per hour, holding, seated, six thousand six 
 
HOMEWARD BOUND. 403 
 
 hundred ; crowded, twelve thousand, and packed, eighteen 
 thousand. 
 
 This statement, the work of an English writer, is by 
 this time in circulation all over Europe in different lan- 
 guages. 
 
 From personal experience I can testify to the extraor- 
 dinary efficiency of Messrs. Cook's agency for travel in 
 Europe. With their coupons I travelled last winter from 
 Paris to Rome, and back, and found them most convenient. 
 Besides the saving in money and time, they save also the 
 cost of a courier. To us in America such a luxury will be 
 almost unnecessary, with English as the ruling language. 
 The absence of custom-houses, of a different currency 
 every few hundred miles, of trouble with baggage, etc., 
 will make it easy to get on with very little trouble. Tour- 
 ists may find a guide necessary at times, but, relieved from 
 the vexations that make a companion necessary on the 
 Continent, the expense in America will be very little. 
 
 Among our passengers is one of those gentle ministers of 
 religion that are haply found in all denominations, the Rt. 
 Rev. M. Domenec, Bishop of Alleghany, in Pennsylvania. 
 He had just visited Rome and the Head of the Catholic 
 Church. He will be remembered in Philadelphia, and 
 especially in Germantown, where he resided and minis- 
 tered for many years. At once a Spaniard, and a sensible 
 and sincere American, he speaks four languages well, and is 
 a power among his people. It is characteristic of the modern 
 Catholic priesthood that they are better politicians than 
 their Protestant brethren. Bishop Domenec claims that 
 all the vitality in Italy for the Centennial has come from 
 the Pope's final assistance ; but undoubtedly Victor Eman- 
 uel's co-operation was earliest if not more earnest. Nearly 
 a year ago Archbishop Wood, of Philadelphia, appealed to 
 the Pope to give his aid to the Exhibition. There was 
 difficulty at first, because the President's invitation to Italy 
 
404 
 
 CONCL USION. 
 
 went first to the Quirinal (or Victor Emanuel, the King), 
 and not to the Vatican (the Pope). But the Catholics of 
 the United States are not to be refused, and as they 
 were among the very first to hail and help the Centennial, 
 the Pope yielded to their appeal, and named Archbishop 
 Wood as his representative at the Exhibition. As the case 
 stands, all the parties at Rome will be on the ground — the 
 Imperial Government, the Papacy, the Garibaldians, and 
 the American artists, including those at Florence, Genoa, 
 and Naples. 
 
 At Ska, February, 1876. 
 
 XCIV. 
 
 Conclusion. 
 
 The foreign correspondence at Philadelphia during the 
 Exhibition will be an interesting feature. Former experi- 
 ence has suggested a novel newspaper literature, and now 
 that the European visitors are to be placed in direct inter- 
 course with our own men of the " ravenous pen," a literary 
 rivalry may be expected. The Cable supplies a means of 
 expensive competition. It disheartens all letter-writing by 
 mail. The London Times, with its enormous revenues, 
 stands at the front, Dr. Russell in India telegraphing daily 
 columns of the progress of the Prince of Wales, and its 
 daily telegraphic columns showing France in its new de- 
 velopments. But neither India nor France will be half so 
 Interesting as the Exhibition in Philadelphia, and the late 
 Veature of Cable despatches in The Times from Philadel- 
 phia (placed at the head of that paper's original daily 
 
COXCL US ION. 
 
 4°5 
 
 foreign news) will be followed by a continuous shower of 
 intelligence during the Exhibition. No one, therefore, 
 can be surprised to hear that The Times will have a special 
 arrangement, daily, with the Anglo-American Cable Com- 
 pany, from the opening to the close of the Centennial. 
 These messages cost a shilling or twenty-five cents a word, 
 a reduction of two-thirds to all newspapers — the price to 
 the public being nearly a dollar a word — and thus none 
 but rich papers like The Times and the New York Herald 
 can afford competition. If the ablest English and Ameri- 
 can writers were to write letters for other papers by the 
 slow old process, they could send no fresh news after that 
 which had been contributed by the lightning Cable corre- 
 spondents. This is a period of facts, not rhetoric; of con- 
 densation, not comment. We now read our morning and 
 evening papers in sentences, not sermons. We get the 
 reflection of the world by glimpses instead of essays. 
 Whether the world is any better because a thought is 
 pressed into a second instead of being spread over an hour 
 is a suggestion I leave Professor Leidy to decide. I shall 
 like it if it enforces condensation so close that a public 
 writer will be confined within decent limits, and will not 
 think, because he has space in which to discuss all things, 
 he can also scandalize his neighbors and disgrace himself. 
 
 The projectors of the American line of steamships be- 
 tween Philadelphia and Liverpool — the only one floating 
 the American flag — have had a hard struggle since they 
 began that enterprise. Started just before the great panic 
 of 1873, they have survived that terrible collapse in the 
 face of the fiercest rivalry, and especially against a strongly 
 subsidized English system. But the four ships themselves 
 have been managed with singular energy and economy at 
 home, and commanded with high courage and skill at sea. 
 
 The Indiana is returning by the southern course, as ice 
 had already been reported to the northward by outward- 
 
4 o6 CONCL USION. 
 
 bound steamers — a longer but safer course. As we neared 
 the Polar current, which sweeps to the edge of the Banks 
 of Newfoundland, where ice was expected, our captain was 
 evidently anxious, and during the night did not leave the 
 bridge, and kept extra hands on the look-out. I was 
 suddenly awakened by the engines being stopped, and 
 found that ice had been seen ahead, though it seemed too 
 dark to see anything, and from the deck I just made out a 
 narrow line of field-ice across the horizon through the cold 
 gloom of the morning. The ship remained still until day- 
 light, as the captain wished to see the character of the ice 
 before deciding upon running the ship through. At the 
 first dawn we entered the floe, and gallantly the Indiana 
 forced aside the drift-ice — with the cry of "starboard," 
 "steady," "port." We threaded our way slowly and 
 carefully until not an inch of clear water was seen — only 
 ice for miles and miles away, with sometimes a berg; but 
 we believed in our ship, trusted our captain, and relied on 
 Providence. Five, six, seven hours, and then clear water 
 ahead, and, after seventy miles of intricate navigation, the 
 ship was free and on the Grand Banks, and the engines 
 turned ahead at full speed again. 
 
 The afternoon was calm and pleasant and the sea per- 
 fectly smooth and of a most exquisite green, peculiar to 
 the Banks, and passengers who had hardly been on deck 
 since we sailed from Liverpool were basking in the sun- 
 light. Towards evening a breeze sprang up from the east- 
 ward, and all sail was set. At eight o'clock it increased 
 to half a gale, and the ship 
 
 Flies along on her course, like a steed 
 Urged by its rider and proud of its speed. 
 
 Then a thick snow-storm, lasting for some hours, and 
 followed by a " nor'wester." As the good ship rides the 
 great waves their crests are blown in spray across the deck. 
 
CONCLUSION. 
 
 407 
 
 The mercury is far below the freezing point, and the mast 
 and rigging, for twenty feet above the rails, are glassy with 
 ice ; life-lines are stretched along the deck ; the bells are 
 so coated with ice that they give no sound; and everything 
 is made secure and snug for a hard night. Think of stand- 
 ing a watch upon the bridge of a steamship during a night 
 like this — the glass at twelve degrees, and in the teeth of a 
 fierce gale, with squalls of sleet and snow ! As I sit com- 
 fortably writing in the saloon, where everything is warm 
 and bright, I feel that we cannot too much respect the 
 courage and daring of the men who sail our ships. 
 
 Among the annoyances of the officers are the endless 
 complaints and questions of some of the passengers. There 
 is only one way on a sea voyage, and that is perfect faith 
 in ship and captain, and a firm reliance on Providence. 
 An excellent story*of Captain Arthur H. Clark, our "Ad- 
 miral," was related to me by a gentleman in Liverpool. 
 It seems that upon one of the voyages last summer, the 
 ship being full of passengers, a gentleman happened to be 
 on board who had never before been out of sight of land, 
 and he neglected no opportunity to ask Captain Clark all 
 manner of tiresome questions, until even that good cap- 
 tain's patience was nearly exhausted. Towards the end of 
 the passage it became very foggy ; the ship was running at 
 full speed, with the fog-signal going every minute; the 
 captain had occasion to leave the bridge for a few moments 
 to attend to something which was going on aft. He had 
 no sooner reached the quarter-deck than his friend rushed 
 up to him and inquired : " Captain, how long will the fog 
 last?" The captain waited a moment, as if giving the 
 subject his utmost consideration, and replied in a deliberate 
 and serious manner : " The fogs about here sometimes last 
 for six months, but it seems to be getting a little clearer 
 overhead just now, and I should not be surprised if this 
 one did not continue for more than three!" 
 
4 o8 CONCLUSION. 
 
 As we approach Cape Henlopen (Monday, February 28, 
 1876), all agree that the voyage from Liverpool has been 
 singularly auspicious, though sometimes rough. A sea 
 journey is always uncertain. It has its agreeable intervals, 
 but even in summer I am not ambitious of being classed 
 with those who claim to love "a life on the ocean wave." 
 It is an uneasy experience to the healthiest and bravest, say 
 what they please; and with all the sea novels ever written 
 — including Captain Marryatt, Fenimore Cooper, and Rich- 
 ard H. Dana — I think I never knew a sailor, captain, mate, 
 or seaman that was not glad to get ashore. I suspect that 
 Captain Clark will feel a good deal relieved when he gets 
 rid of us at Christian Street wharf, and will enjoy a "square 
 meal" at his club with an honest relief that he has finished 
 the twenty-fourth passage safely. This voyage proves not 
 alone his skill as a seaman, but the stanch qualities of the 
 ship he commands. She gracefully cut her way through 
 seventy miles of floating ice, passing six respectable ice- 
 bergs, each as large as half a dozen Capitols at Washing- 
 ton, glowing in the azure of their frozen architecture, from 
 which, however, the kind care of the captain kept his 
 Indiana at a respectful distance. I have slept well every 
 night, have done a full day's work every day, inditing this 
 hasty letter with as much ease as if I had dictated it in my 
 little office at home. And so good-by, Indiana, and wel- 
 come Philadelphia. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 About, Edmond, French writer, 221. 
 Actors, endowments for, 48. 
 Agincourt, Drayton's ballad, 342. 
 Albert, Prince, his mausoleum at 
 
 Frogmore, 54. 
 Alexandra Palace, 224. 
 Aileyn, Edward, founder of Dul- 
 
 wich College, 49. 
 Amberley, Lord and Lady, in an 
 
 American public school, 280. 
 American and British hotels, 145; 
 
 " Extra" extortions in London, 
 
 146. 
 American Independence, centennial 
 
 of, II. 
 
 American Minister in England, 87. 
 
 American press of London, 187. 
 
 American steamships, 10. 
 
 Anglo-American Times, on Mr. 
 Outline Owen's retirement, 380. 
 
 Aquarium at Brighton, 79. 
 
 Archer, Professor, British Commis- 
 sioner, 381. 
 
 Army of Fiance, reorganized, 30. 
 
 Artists, American, in Paris, 33; in 
 Florence, 113; in Rome, 116. 
 
 Art sales in London, 141 ; large 
 prices obtained, 142. 
 
 Atlantic Cable ; advanced tariff, 317. 
 
 At sea, 9. 
 
 Banks of London, deposits in, 145. 
 
 Bartholdi, Major Auguste, French 
 sculptor, 137, 331, 369. 
 
 Be.dloe's Island, Bartholdi's colossal 
 lighthouse for, 140, 331, 368. 
 
 Belgium, 200. 
 
 Berl: 11, 203. 
 
 Be van, Rev. L. C, his experiences in 
 America, 58. 
 
 Birmingham, 21. 
 
 Black Country, the debased condi- 
 tion of, 294. 
 
 Blackmore, Mr. William, his muse- 
 um in Salisbury, 328. 
 
 Blanc, Louis, 93. 
 
 Bliss, Mr. William, his manufactory 
 of woollen fabrics, 290. 
 
 Blue law in London, 147 ; revival 
 of obsolete Sabbatarian statutes, 
 148. 
 
 Boarding in Paris, 25. 
 
 Boucicault, Mrs. Dion, 39. 
 
 Boulevards of Paris, 28. 
 
 Boulogne, 25. 
 
 Boyton, Captain Paul, swims across 
 the English Channel, 128; ai 
 at Boulogne, 129; Queen Vic- 
 toria's congratulations, 130. 
 
 Brassey, Mr. Albert, Master of the 
 Hounds at Heythrop, 285; his 
 stud and stables, 287 ; the " Meet,'" 
 290. 
 
 Bridgland, Colonel, his views on 
 French and American horses, 133. 
 
 Bright. John, M. P., at Rochdale, 81. 
 
 Brighton, 78. 
 
 navy, present organization of, 
 177. 
 
 British press, 347. 
 
 ham, Lend, chateau and tomb 
 
 ,1! I .inn' 5, I02. 
 
 Brown, fohn, Queen Victoria's char- 
 acter of, 357. 
 
 Brown, Sir William, his public li- 
 brary in Liverpool, 16. 
 
 Brussels, 218 ; Governmental inhe- 
 sion to the Centennial Interna- 
 tional, 219. 
 
 Buchanan, President, 396. 
 
 Cannes, scenery and climate of, 102. 
 , 83 ; his preach- 
 ing, 85. 
 Catholic Cathedral in Westminster, 
 282. 
 
 409 
 
4io 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Cat-show, 305. 
 
 Caubert, M., of Paris, 195. 
 
 Centennial Exposition, 11; et pas- 
 sim. 
 
 Ceramic art, 19. 
 
 Champagne factory near Wiesbaden, 
 215. 
 
 Champs Elysees at night, 31. 
 
 ( hinge of feeling in Liverpool, 393. 
 
 ( hantilly races, 131. 
 
 Chateau d'lf, 101. 
 
 Chatham dock-yards, 175. 
 
 Chester, old city of, 18. 
 
 Chipping Norton, visit to, 285. 
 
 Civil service in France and England, 
 
 3i- 
 
 Civil service supply association, low 
 prices at, 276. 
 
 Clark, Captain A. IE, of the Indi- 
 ana, 407. 
 
 Consulate, the Liverpool, 396. 
 
 Conway, M. D., 72. 
 
 Cook & Co., travelling agency of, 
 
 403- 
 Co-operative stores, first instituted 
 
 at Rochdale, 83 ; in London, 276. 
 Coram, Captain, 61. 
 Crops, scientific succession of, 42. 
 Crystal Palace at Sydenham, 67; 
 
 education department, 70. 
 
 Darnlev, Earl, strange proceedings 
 
 of, 348. 
 D'Aumale, Due, 132. 
 Diary of the Siege of Paris, 26. 
 Diorama of Siege of Paris, 196. 
 Disraeli, B., buys the Khedive's 
 
 Suez Canal shares, 374. 
 Diving, feats of, 224. 
 Dixon, W. H., 248. 
 Dog show in London, 181 ; home 
 
 for dogs, 184 ; Forrest's Dog of 
 
 Montargis, 185. 
 Domenec, Bishop of Alleghany, 403. 
 Domesday Book, 164. 
 Drama in London, 233. 
 Drayton's " Agincourt," 342. 
 Dudley, Thomas H., 212. 
 Dulwich College, 48. 
 
 Early London, relics of, 178. 
 Egypt, the Khedive of, 374. 
 England recognizes the Centennial, 
 
 86. 
 " English Empire in America," a 
 
 curious old book, 334. 
 
 Eton College, 56. 
 
 Eugenie, Empress, visit to, at Chisel- 
 hurst, 171. 
 
 Exchange news-room, Liverpool, 15. 
 
 Experiences of America by an Eng- 
 lish clergyman, 58. 
 
 Fairchild, Lucius, Consul at Liver- 
 
 pool, 397. 
 Fleury, Robert, French artist, 221. 
 Florence, 112; American artists in, 
 
 "3- 
 
 Folkestone, 24. 
 
 Forrest, Edwin, 50. 
 
 Foundling Hospital, London, 61. 
 
 Fountain for the Centennial, Bar- 
 
 tholdi's, 138. 
 Fourth of July in London, 186. 
 Frankfort-on-the-Main, 205. 
 French Chambers, debate in, 94; 
 
 Vote for the Centennial, 193. 
 
 Galignani's Messenger, 29. 
 
 Garibaldi, G., interview with, 123. 
 
 Genoa, 108 ; Bank of Saint George 
 in, no. 
 
 German Universities, 214. 
 
 Germany, liberality of the govern- 
 ment towards the Exposition, 200. 
 
 ( Iramme light, the, 352. 
 
 Guildhall of London, 51. 
 
 Hampton Court Palace, 37. 
 
 Harrel, Captain J. V., his paintings 
 of the old masters, 372. 
 
 I lai inw-on-the-Hill, famous school 
 at, 75. 
 
 Healy, G. A., American painter in 
 Paris, 228. 
 
 Hebrews in London, 268. 
 
 Heralds' College in London, its pur- 
 pose and history, 152; description 
 of, 154; curious documents pre- 
 served in, 156; portraits in, 158. 
 
 Holland House, Kensington, 38. 
 
 Hotel life at home and abroad, 39. 
 
 Houghton, Lord, 161. 
 
 Icebergs, among the. 406. 
 
 Iron-clads at Chatham, 176. 
 
 Irving, Henry, English actor, 63, 236, 
 
 304- 
 Isle St. Marguerite, Marshal Ba- 
 
 zaine's escape from, 103. 
 Italian railwa) s, 112. 
 Italy accedes to the Centennial, 330. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 411 
 
 Jacobi, Mr., head of the Commission 
 
 in Berlin, 203. 
 Jews m Parliament, 268. 
 Journalism of London, 187. 
 
 Kenihvorth, 22. 
 Khedive of Egypt, 374. 
 Krupp, Mr., the great gun-manu- 
 facturer, 203. 
 
 Laboulaye, M. Edouard, 227, 369. 
 
 Lafayette's grandson, 125. 
 
 Lavves, John Bennett, scientific farm- 
 ing by, 41. 
 
 Leamington, 23. 
 
 Lincoln, President, portrait of, woven 
 in silk, 98. 
 
 Liverpool, statistics of, 14; its envi- 
 rons and parks, 15 ; public institu- 
 tions, 16 ; slave trade in, 17 ; com- 
 merce of, 395. 
 
 Living in London, manner and cost 
 
 of, 39- 
 Locomotives, American, in Russia, 
 
 245- 
 London Newspaper Fund dinner, 
 
 159- 
 
 London, streets of, 190; ancient and 
 modern street-lighting, 192. 
 
 London Times, its career, character, 
 and power, 383 ; Walter, John, 
 principal proprietor of, 384. 
 
 Lord Mayor of London, 30 ; inaugu- 
 ration feast, 51 ; official costume 
 and insignia, 52. 
 
 Luinnard, Colonel, his diorama of 
 the Siege of Paris, 196 ; of the Sur- 
 render at Yorktown, 224. 
 
 Lyceum Theatre, London, 63; man- 
 aged by H. L. Bateman, 234. 
 
 Lyon, John, founds and endows 
 Harrow school, 75. 
 
 Lyons, industries of, 97 ; woven por- 
 traits in, 98. 
 
 Mackenzie, J. Campbell, his diary of 
 the Siege of Paris, 27. 
 
 MacMahon, President, 92. 
 
 Manchester, interior of a cotton-fac- 
 tory there, 81. 
 
 Man in the lion Mask, 103. 
 
 Manning, Cardinal, 283. 
 
 Marco Polo, his portrait in mosaic, 
 108. 
 
 Marden Park, Surrey, 38. 
 
 Marseilles, 101. 
 
 Monaco, gambling in the Casino, 
 
 107. 
 Montefiore, Sir Moses, 269. 
 
 National Assembly of France in ses- 
 sion, 93 ; customs of the Chamber, 
 
 94- 
 National education, English and 
 
 American contrasted, 278. 
 National Museum, contributions to, 
 
 98,303. 334- 
 Nevin, Rev. Dr., of the American 
 
 Church in R< me, 119. 
 New York Herald'm Paris, 373. 
 Nice, 105 ; its cosmopolitan visitors, 
 
 106. 
 
 Oak Lodge, Kensington, 38. 
 
 Opera-house, the new, in Paris, 35. 
 
 Owen, Mr. P. Cunliffe, his suggestion 
 for a century hence, 333; resigns 
 his office as head of the British 
 Commission to Philadelphia, 379. 
 
 Oxford, University of, 23. 
 
 Panorama of the Surrender at York- 
 tow n, 224. 
 
 Paris, 25; boarding-house in, 25; 
 Siege of, 26 ; present condition of, 
 28 ; Centennial feeling in, 29 ; cost 
 of living in, 35; in New War's 
 week, 90; compared with London, 
 91 ; alive to the Centennial, 92. 
 
 Peabody buildings, London, 169. 
 
 Penn, William, Ins founder's plan for 
 Philadelphia, 148; letters from, 
 167. 
 
 Philadelphia ocean-steamers, 9. 
 
 Politico-religious issues, 258. 
 
 Potteries ol Staffordshire, 20. 
 
 Puleston, J. H., 38, 178. 
 
 Railway travel in France, 96 ; in Italy, 
 112; in ( lermany, 200. 
 
 Reade, ( lharles, the novelist, 40. 
 
 rd Office in London, Domes- 
 el. iv Book preserved there, 164. 
 
 Relics oi earlj I .ondon, 178. 
 
 m London, 318. 
 
 Richmond, Duke of. and resignation 
 ol P. ( 'unlitl. ( 'wen, 380. 
 
 Rochdale, Lancashire, visit to, 81. 
 
 Rome, American artists in, 116; 
 American Church in, 118; three 
 Powers in, 122 ; visit to Garibaldi, 
 123. 
 
412 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Rothschild family in England, 268. 
 
 Russell, Dr. W. H., 162. 
 
 Russia completes the Centennial 
 
 circle, 338. 
 Ryan, Dr., of Paris, 212. 
 
 St. Alban's Abbey, 44. 
 
 St. George's Hall, Liverpool, 15. 
 
 Sale of American products abroad, 
 
 238. 
 Salisbury Cathedral, 324; Museum, 
 
 328. 
 Sandford, Colonel, 381. 
 Sarum, Old and New, 321. 
 Schenck, General, 87. 
 Scientific farming, 41. 
 Seamen, extravagance of, 397. 
 Sea-shore, English season at the, 
 
 270; at the French resorts, 271. 
 Shakspeare's birth-place, 22. 
 Short, Captain John, 397. 
 Siege of Paris, diorama of, 195. 
 Six hundred of Balaklava, the, 340. 
 Slang, American and English, 261. 
 Spa, meeting with young Philadel- 
 
 phians in, 209 ; hotel habits of, 
 
 210. 
 Staffordshire potteries, 19. 
 Stanley, Dean, 160. 
 Steamer "Illinois," 9; "Indiana," 
 
 398. 
 Stonehenge, 320. 
 Stratford-on-Avon, 21. 
 Street-watering in Europe, 231. 
 Streets of Paris, cleanliness of, 28. 
 Suez Canal, England buys in the, 
 
 374- 
 Sunday in London, how observed, 
 
 148, 230; newspapers published 
 
 on, 150. 
 Surrender at Yorktown, panorama 
 
 of, 224. 
 Switzerland, 351. 
 Sydenham, Crystal Palace at, 67. 
 
 Tamrack, Charles, professional nat- 
 uralist, 46. 
 
 Tennyson's " Charge of the Light 
 Brigade," 340. 
 
 The Times, London journal, 383. 
 Torbert, Consul-General at Paris, 
 
 92. 
 Trollope, T. Adolphus, in Rome, 
 
 119. 
 Tucker, Stephen J., Rouge Croix 
 
 Pursuivant, 157, 304. 
 Tunis at the Exhibition, 359. 
 Tupper, Martin Farquhar, extracts 
 
 from his drama of " Washington," 
 
 361. 
 Turkish insolvency and American 
 
 securities, 310; scene on 'Change, 
 
 312. 
 
 Uninvested money in London, 313. 
 Universities of Germany, 214. 
 
 Versailles, 93. 
 
 Vesey, W. H., Consul at Nice, his 
 recollections of Lafayette, 222. 
 
 Victoria, Queen, her telegram to 
 Captain Boyton, 130; her sketch 
 of John Brown, 357; John Bright's 
 high estimate of her character, 
 358; opens the Parliament, 386; 
 description of the scene, 388. 
 
 Vienna Exposition, report of the 
 British Commission on, 87. 
 
 Walter, John, of The Time;:, 384. 
 
 Washburne, Mr., United States Min- 
 ister at Paris, his help to the Cen- 
 tennial, 92. 
 
 " Washington," Tupper's so-called 
 drama, 361. 
 
 Wealth of London, 267. 
 
 Wells, David A., his letter to English 
 manufacturers, 300. 
 
 Weston, American pedestrian, victor 
 in a contest in London, 392. 
 
 Whitefield's chapel, 57; L. C. Be- 
 van's lecture in, 58. 
 
 Wiesbaden, city-railroad in, 217. 
 
 WikofF, Henry, at Chiselhurst, 173. 
 
 Windsor Castle, 53 ; its historical 
 and picturesque surroundings, 56. 
 
 Zoological Gardens, London, 47. 
 
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