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CHEESE MANUAL 
 
 Delineating and Explaining 
 
 CHEESE MAKING 
 
 By process known as 
 
 SOURING IN THE WHEY, 
 tt —^^ — 
 
 I Hf W. RICHARDSON. 
 
 .H'-'-CO^g^- 
 
 HI'" ^4- 1889 o)^ / 
 
 EAST AURORA, NEW YORK. 
 
 ADVERTISER PRINTING HOUSE, 
 1889. 
 
Entered accoiding to act of Congress, in the year 1889, by 
 
 HARVET ^V:. JRICHARDSON, 
 
 in the oflQce of the Jjibrarian of: Congress, at W^shin^ton.. 
 
r 
 
 The conditions of milk and the surroundings under which 
 it is produced, should be such as are conducive to the most 
 favorable results, and among the duties of the cheeseinaker 
 ought necessarily to be included that of instructing, advis- 
 ing, and educating his patrons in the matter of care of milk, 
 as well as the use of proper kinds of food and drink for 
 dairy cows. 
 
 We shall not enter into the details of milk care at this 
 time, but would refer to the circular issued by the proprietors 
 of Cloverfield Combination for 1889 for a few suggestions 
 upon that subject, which every cheeseuiaker should insist 
 upon being observed and carried into execution by his 
 patrons. 
 
 Cleanliness is a necessity in the production of finest dairy 
 goods, and while we expect the cheesemaker to impress this 
 uj^on the minds of the dairy farmer on all proper occasions, 
 with a persistency that insures success, he must not forget 
 that it is equally essential and applicable in the management 
 of the cheese factory. ; 
 
4 
 
 Practice what you preach, is an old adage which applies 
 with remarkable force, when the cheesemaker is pleading 
 with the patron to use greater diligence in the cleansing and 
 care of his milk utensils, while at the same time the fumes 
 and stench from putrid matter is arising from the factory 
 and utensils within, and between the senses of seeing and 
 smelling, the farmer, with ordinary observation, becomes 
 conscious of the loathsome condition of things, and is dis- 
 gusted therewith. The moral effect of a sermon on care of 
 milk under such circumstances, would not be likely to reach 
 very deep down in the mind of the farmer, or make a very 
 lasting impression thereon. Therefore, if tor moral effect 
 only, the factoiy and utensils should be models of cleanli- 
 ness and Older. 
 
 Milk, during the time of being received into the factory, 
 and cheese during the process of being made, are liable to 
 absorb and partake of noxious odors coming in contact 
 therewith, besides, where filth and carelessness abound in a 
 factory, some particles of the putrid matter are almost cer- 
 tain to become incorporated into the cheese. We refer you 
 to hints to cheesemakers 7 and 10 to 21 inclusive in this 
 manual for further information on this subject. 
 
 The reduction of the bulk of milk, by the separation of 
 part of its water, is the first essential step in the process of 
 cheese-making. This is to be followed by such treatment of. 
 the portion retained for cheese as will make it most valuable 
 in the food markets. The varying conditions of milk mid 
 
5 
 surrounding atmosphere, will allow of no inflexible rule for 
 the cheesemaker's guide. If so, how much the work would 
 be simplified. It is seldom that two vats of milk, as received 
 at the factory, present exactly the same conditions, and 
 under the usual mode of manufacture as now practiced, each 
 day's work is an experiment, requiring the exercise of care- 
 ful observation and judgment on the part of the cheese- 
 maker. Therefore, anything which tends to produce uni- 
 form conditions of milk, helps to simplify the process, and is 
 likely to be the means of producing a more uniform quality 
 of product. Thus we perceive the advantages of 
 
 RIPENING MILK. 
 
 By ripening milk, as a means of preparing it for cheese - 
 making, is meant the development of such degree of lactic 
 acid as will produce perfect harmony of rennet action and 
 lactic acid fermentation during the various stages of the 
 work; and if the lactic acid could be developed exactly to a 
 certain point, and be the same in each and every vat of milk 
 at the time rennet is introduced, we would have taken a long 
 stride toward producing that uniformity of conditions which 
 is considered so desirable. The degree of ripeness, or lactic 
 acid desired, is neither easily described nor determined, for 
 it must not be so pronounced as to have arrived at a stage 
 when milk would ordinarilj^ be called sour. At present the 
 only practical means known to be in use by which to deter- 
 mine the degree of acid development (aside from the sense 
 
of smell which cannot as a rule be relied upon) is what is 
 called the 
 
 CUP TEST. 
 
 This is based upon the principle that the riper the milk 
 (that is the more lactic acid is developed in it) the less time 
 will be required to coagulate or thicken with a given amount 
 of rennet at a given temperature, and on the contrary, the 
 sweeter the milk the longer time will it take to coagulate it 
 under the same conditions. In order to make the cup test 
 most valuable in one combination, each cheesemaker should 
 be provided with the same kind of prepared rennet, either 
 powder or extract, of the same strength ; also be provided 
 with uniform and accurate means of measuring the same, so 
 as to be able to measure minute quantities- Great caution 
 and accuracy must be exercised in its use, else the test will 
 be valueless. A few experiments will determine how long a 
 time will be required for a given amount of rennet to thicken 
 a certain sized cup of milk, when the milk is just ripe 
 enough. When this is determined we have our guide lor 
 future action. It will be observed that this test depends 
 upon the idea of using an exact uniform quantity of milk at 
 an exact uniform temperature, with an exact uniform amount 
 of rennet ot exact uniform strength. Then we must bring 
 the milk to that degree of ripeness which will, as nearly as 
 possible, require an exact uniform time to thicken a sample 
 taken from each individual vat of milk on each successive 
 
7 
 day. The bringing of milk to this point is what is meant 
 by ripening it. We now proceed to consider 
 HOW TO RIPEN MILK. 
 
 No doubt something can and ought to be accompHshed 
 toward ripening milk by the patrons at their farm, through 
 the advice of the cheesemaker from time to time, by such 
 regulation of temperature at which it is kept over night, as 
 will be most conducive to the accomplishment of end in 
 view. But, in doing so, the danger point must not be ap- 
 proached too closely, for milk, as received at the factory, 
 had better to be too sweet than too sour, as between the two. 
 So it will be perceived that we cannot expect to be able to 
 have the farmer do all the ripening. 
 
 There are two methods by which milk may be ripened at 
 the factory. One is by the addition of some kind of acid; 
 the other by the application of heat and time. The use of 
 acids in any form has been condemned by many of our best 
 cheese manufacturers, and, while we do not wish to encour- 
 age its use, there is no doubt but that many times the use of 
 sour milk is resorted to without material injury, and, when 
 used prudently, is certainly better than attempting to make 
 cheese from milk that is too sweet, or not properly ripened. 
 The abuses of its use, which are to be avoided, consist in 
 allowing the milk which is added to become too sour, and 
 in using it in too large quantities. In procuring a supply it 
 is better to take from a single dairy of known purity, instead 
 
8 
 
 of from the mass or vat, and store the same ' in a vessel that 
 is washed and scalded each and every day, and kept in such 
 temperature as will develop a clean, sharp acid, without 
 being allowed to thicken before using. 
 
 The other, and probably safer method (although requiring 
 more time), consists in applying temperature and sufficient 
 time to accomplish the work. The milk should be heated to 
 such a temperature as may be necessary, not exceeding 94 
 degrees, and allowed to stand and eventually cool back to 
 the temperature at which the rennet is to be applied. The 
 cup test, as heretofore described, should be used at intervals 
 as may be deemed necessary, and the temperature of the vat 
 of milk so regulated as to have it at the proper degree when 
 it is just ripe enough to introduce the rennet. The con- 
 dition of the atmosphere during the time which milk, if kept 
 after being milked, particularly the temperature, also the 
 effect of different kinds of food, as well as the variation of 
 seasons, all exert their influence upon milk, and have an im- 
 ]Dortant bearing upon the amount of ripening it will require. 
 These should be remembered by the cheesemaker, and he 
 should not think he is gaining time by introducing rennet 
 into a vat of very sweet milk. The vat will be progressed 
 ec[ually fast, in our opinion, by the process of ripening be- 
 fore setting, as in the usual routine of cheese-making without 
 ripening, and a mucji better cheese can be produced. 
 
 For the purpose of improving the quality of cheese made 
 
9 
 in any certain line of factories that may come under our 
 management, and of bringing them nearer to a uniform 
 standard, it seems desirable to secure more uniformity in the 
 jjrocess throughout the various stages of manufacture in the 
 different factories; and in order to accomplish this, it seems 
 desirable to develop a system of observation and record of 
 time occupied by the various stages of manufacture, as well 
 as the temperature, the degree of acid, and other important 
 particulars. This system of observation and record will 
 partake somewhat of the nature of an experiment, and in 
 order to be of value, will require close care and accuracy as 
 to time, temperature, acid, etc., and that these be recorded 
 for future reference, otherwise very little or no good will 
 follow. One great object to be gained thereby is that such 
 records, if properly kept, will be of great value to the super- 
 intendent in determining much more readily and accurately 
 wherein lies the cause of any defects or lack of quality, which 
 he may discover when testing green cheese upon the factory 
 shelves, or later on when the cheese are cured, so that he 
 may be the better able to suggest the true remedy, and more 
 speedily and positively secure the removal of the difficulty. 
 Through these experiments and observations, the cheese- 
 maker will become the better fitted for his position, in con- 
 sequence of the skill and knowledge he will gain therefrom. 
 And believing, as we do, that every cheesemaker in this 
 combination desires to stand among the fust and best of his 
 
})rofession, we anticipate the hearty co-operation of all, and 
 hope none will begrudge the little extra time and trouble re- 
 (juired to make the desired observations, and note down the 
 proper records. For the purpose of convenience in discrib- 
 ing and recording the time, temperature, etc., and delineat- 
 ing the work, we will divide the interval of time occupied in 
 making cheese, from the stage at which the rennet is intro- 
 duced, to the stage at which the cheese is ready to go into 
 the curing room, into ten spaces of time. These, for con- 
 veniences hereafter, will be designated as intervals and will 
 always be given in minutes. The commencement of each of 
 these intervals will be designated as a stage; therefore we 
 will have eleven stages and ten intervals in the process of 
 manufacture, as shown by the explanatory blank for record 
 of process of cheese making. 
 
 Now if we note carefully the time of each stage named in 
 the blank, and record the number of minutes intervening 
 between each of these stages in the proper space in the line 
 designated as time, and then note the temperature at each 
 stage in its proper space in the line for temperature; also 
 record in the plain lines below the degree of acid, as shown 
 by the hot iron test; also note the amount of salt used for 
 i,ooo pounds of milk, we shall have pretty nearly a complete 
 record of the workings of that particular vat of cheese. 
 There is a space left also for remarks, and in this can be 
 noted anything different from the ordinary that may show 
 itself in the condition and develpment of milk or curd. 
 
3 I 
 
 ^5^6^ 
 
 . -: 
 
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 8 V 
 
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 II III 
 
 1 II 1 
 
 5 1 6 7 1 8 1 9 lo It 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
II 
 
 The first thing to be done in the morning after the milk 
 is received, is 
 
 HEATING, 
 or raising the temperature, for which purpose ahvays use 
 water in wood vat against the tin. All changes of tempera- 
 ture with milk or cheese during the working must be very 
 gradual, the milk being stirred often, never being allowed to 
 rest more than one or two minutes at a time. Steam should 
 be turned off early enough to prevent the temperature of 
 milk from rising above the proper degree for setting (unless 
 it is necessary to apply additional heat for the purpose of 
 ripening), always bearing in mind that the temperature is 
 likely to go up 2 to 4 degrees after steam is turned off, de- 
 pending upon the quantity in the vat, and whether heating 
 has been done fast or slow, in case the cheesemaker should 
 ever be indiscreet enough to allow fast heating. After steam 
 is turned off allow time enough to elapse before setting (with 
 frequent stirring) for the heat from water under the vat to 
 have become absorbed into the milk, so that temperature of 
 the water is only a trifle above it, thus avoiding any pos- 
 sible danger of the curd that forms on the bottom of the vat 
 coming quicker or harder than in the center, because of be- 
 ing over heated. The temperature of setting is usually 84 
 degrees in summer, and 86 degrees in spring and fall. Some 
 good cheesemakers think it injurious to heat part of a vat of 
 milk in cold mornings and then add cold milk thereby 
 
suddenly reducing the temperature. We are inclined to 
 think this is correct. 
 
 When a vat of milk is ripened, and at the proper tempera- 
 ture, in case colored cheese are to be made, the coloring 
 should be carefully measured and diluted with cold water 
 to the extent of one gallon to a vatfull of milk. This should 
 l)e emptied over the surface and thoroughly and quickly 
 stirred into the milk, not allowing it to stand at all after 
 first poured upon it, and then receive 5 minutes stirring. 
 
 STAGE ONE. 
 
 We now introduce rennet by reducing it first, the same as 
 was the coloring, and pouring over the vat surface from end 
 to end quickly, and immediately stirring with circular motion 
 around the vat, then crosswise back and forth for 3 to 5 
 minutes, so there will be no mistake but that it is equally dis- 
 tributed, when the mass should be allowed to rest, except the 
 surface, which should be kept gently agitated with the back 
 of the dipper during the remainder of 
 
 INTERVAL ONE. 
 The object of this surface agitation is to prevent the cream 
 from rising, and great care must be exercised not to continue 
 it too long, or after thickening commences. If this is done, 
 serious damage will be the result. During interval i the vat 
 should have almost constant attention, and not be left for 
 more than i minute at a time, and the space of time of this 
 
13 
 
 interval should be noted very accurately on such days as 
 blank reports are to be filled out. 
 
 STAGE TWO 
 is the point of time at which coagulation or thickening first 
 begins to show on the outside of a dipper of quite hot water 
 as it is set into the vat of milk. When coagulation first 
 begins a film forms upon the outside of the dipper of hot 
 water. This is curd, and the high temperature induced by 
 the hot water contained in the dipper causes earlier thicken- 
 ing, therefore coagulation can be discovered earlier in this 
 way. No stirring, or agitation must be allowed now, and 
 the vat should be covered immediately. 
 
 INTERVAL TWO 
 is a period of perfect rest. The vat should always be covered 
 during this interval, and care taken not to jar the factory 
 floor so as to produce a tremble, and interfere with the per- 
 fect rest desired. The time of this interval should also be 
 noted with exactness, as we desire to compare the time of 
 intervals i and 2 as to the number of minutes occupied by 
 each, for the purpose of eventually establishing, if possible, 
 definite rules which will be a safe guide for the relative time 
 of these two intervals. 
 
 STAGE THREE 
 is the point of time at which cutting is to commence, and 
 requires careful observation, in order that each and all vats 
 may be cut when in exactly the same condition as regards 
 
14 
 
 firmness. The tests usually applied to determine this con- 
 dition are, first, by dipping the finger into and under the 
 curd, raising it carefully to the surface. As soon as it will 
 break over the finger with a smooth fracture it is ready to 
 cut. Another test is by laying the back of the fingers and 
 hand on the curd near the edge of the vat, and bearing it 
 away from the side. As soon as it will cleave from the vat 
 it is ready to cut. When cutting is commenced, after pass- 
 ing the knife once through the vat hold it over the strip cut, 
 and if this strip is nearly or quiet as wide as the knife, the 
 curd has been allowed to come to hard; but if the strip cut 
 is only ^ to 3^ as wide as the knife, this indicates that the 
 cutting has l)een done in about the right time. Careful 
 observation and experience will soon give the maker more 
 definite information on this point. 
 
 INTERVAL THREE 
 covers the time of cutting and stirring, to the time when 
 steam is turned on. Cut first lengthwise the vat, then dia- 
 mondwise, then crosswise, with a perpendicular gang knife 
 (a horizontal knife would be preferable for second cut). 
 This makes three cuts, each of which should be done with 
 care, making the different strokes match, by carrying a 
 steady even hand, so as to make the curd as even as possi- 
 ble, and with fair speed that it may be cut smooth. Turn 
 the curd over with the hands, by stirring once around the 
 vat, freeing the sides from curd. Now it will probably need 
 
i"5 
 ciiLting crosswise, making 4 cuts; and in cases it may be 
 necessary to lap one-half during this last cut, which would 
 be equivalent to 5 cuts. Five cuts are all that any curd from 
 good sweet milk will ever need, if cut at the proper time. 
 And we are of the opinion that 4 cuttings are enough and 
 right for the average curd, and possibly 3 will answer. These 
 po'iits must be determined from time to time by the superin- 
 tendent. During S23ring, on hay milk, the curd requires to 
 be n little finer than in summer. Keep ever in mind that 
 the; softer curd is when cut, the finer it will be when cooked, 
 provided it is handled the same otherwise. As soon as cutting 
 is c(;mpleted the curd should be agitated or stirred very 
 gently, but continuously, keejjing it all loose and separate, 
 and never allowing it to settle on the bottom of the vat. The 
 old theory of allowing curd to stand and settle after once 
 cutting we believe to be all wrong; only stop long enough 
 to turn it over once with the hands, as above indicated, be- 
 fore the cutting is finished. All curds, excepting quick vats, 
 should be stirred carefully 10 minutes or more after the last 
 cut before heat is turned on. 
 
 STAGE FOUR 
 is the time when steam is turned on. Heat very gradually, 
 and handle the curd very carefully, giving it no rest, but 
 keep stirring gently so that it will not break and mangle. 
 Use 35 to 40 minutes in raising the temperature to 90 de- 
 grees. During intervals 4 and 5 the moisture is passing out 
 
«6 
 of the curd, and this result is best promoted by heating 
 slowly. A film or skin is formed upon the outside of the 
 kernels of curd, which is a part of the curd and porus like it, 
 but through the gradual shrinkage which this skin or film 
 undergoes these pores are reduced in size, so that while the 
 moisture is allowed to pass through them, the butter globules 
 are strained back and retained in the curd. When heat is 
 hurried this skin or film will be shrunken too much, and the 
 pores therein closed so small as to prevent the free passage of 
 moisture from the curd, and the cheese produced will be 
 unsatisfactory, being dry on the outside and wet on the in- 
 side of the kernels or pieces, thus making an uneven curd. 
 In case milk is over-ripe, and acid developing too fast in the 
 curd, the acid eats away and prevents the forming of this 
 film or skin, and we are likely to have a curd with rough or 
 honeycombed surface, and more butter passes off in the 
 whey. With this honeycombed surface, the curd, acting 
 like a sponge, absorbs the free moisture which had previous- 
 ly been expelled from it, making a wet sour cheese. With 
 such curds hurried heating is the least of the two evils, and in 
 extreme cases is an absolute necessity, in order to save the 
 cheese from utter ruin. Bear in mind the fact, that a few 
 minutes of neglect during this 'interval, during which time 
 matting or lumping of the curd once commences, can never 
 be wholly overcome by after management; therefore, should 
 necessity com])el you to leave a vat for even 2 t)r 3 minutes, 
 
17^ 
 
 steam should be turned off a few minutes before you do so 
 leave it, and not turn on again until your return. 
 STAGE FIVF:. 
 When the temperature reaches 90 degrees should be care- 
 fully noted. 
 
 INTERVAL FIVE 
 is simply a continuation of the same operations as interval 4, 
 requiring continual stirring, so as to allow no lumping or 
 matting. Each particle of curd should be kept separate 
 from each other particle, so they will immediately float out 
 separate as soon as stirring the whey is commenced. Re- 
 member that lumpy curds do not cook evenly, and thus two 
 kinds of curd are produced in the same cheese. Also bear 
 in mind the fact that lumpy curds usually means mangled 
 (uirds, which in turn causes loss ot butter, and destroys that 
 fine silky texture of the cheese when cured. In order to 
 preserve the most fat, the lowest temperature which will 
 cause the complete expulsion of the surplus moisture shoukl 
 be used, though with some vats of milk a higher cook is 
 necessary than with others. 98 degrees or blood heat is 
 considered the most favorable temperature for expelling the 
 moisture, or cooking a curd as it is termed, when milk is in 
 normal condition and the 'cheese is working fairly well. 
 Still variations from this may become necessary at times, 
 in order to harmonize the cook with other conditions. As 
 with heating milk, the steam must be turned off early enough, 
 
i8 
 
 making proper allowance for the rise in temperature which 
 will be caused in the vat by the water beneath the tin being 
 warmer than the whey. 
 
 STAGE SIX 
 represents the time when the highest heat is reached (say 98 
 for common), or according to common expression, the 
 SCALD IS UP, although the word scald would seem hardly ap- 
 propriate at a temperature of 98 degrees. Too much impor- 
 tanc cannot be attached to the idea of being exact about the 
 temperature at which the mass is now to be held; for if 98 
 is right 97 or 99 are not right, and a higher or lower tem- 
 perature should not be tolerated than that which the curd 
 requires. Thus we observe the importance of testing all 
 thermometers by a fixed standard, and marking plainly any 
 variations from the standard we may discover. These tests 
 should be made often, at least once a fortnight. 
 INTERVALS SIX AND SEVEN 
 should be periods of an exactly even temperature up to stage 
 8 (when the curd is ready to dip), unless it be found that the 
 milk was so ripe that acid is being developed too fast for the 
 cook, in which case it may be necessary to raise the temper- 
 ature I to 4 degrees. Keep the curd agitated until it reaches 
 that stage of contraction at which it will not pack readily, 
 when it may be allowed to rest and the vat be covered so as 
 the better to retain the heat. Agitation must be continued 
 at intervals,, and often enough to prevent kernels of curd 
 
19 
 
 adhering together so but that they will float out separately 
 again by gentle agitation. Remember that the cases when 
 temperature is to be sent up i to 4 degrees are to be the ex- 
 ception, and when necessary today try and have the milk in 
 condition that it will not be necessary tomorrow, for it means 
 injury to quality and loss in quantity. The use of a little 
 more steam, to be applied occasionally, will no doubt be 
 necessary in order to preserve the uniformity of temperature 
 desired. 
 
 STAGE SEVEN. 
 When acid has so developed as to string y^ inch on the 
 hot iron should be carefully noted when blanks are to be 
 filled out. We will not attempt to name an exact time 
 which it would be most desirable for intervals 6 and 7 to 
 cover, in order to produce that harmony of acid and cook 
 so desirable, but it should never be less than two nor more 
 than three hours. 
 
 STAGE EIGHT 
 is perhaps the most important period in cheese-making, 
 inasmuch as at this time a well made cheese can be ruined 
 or a poorly made cheese can be much improved, all in the 
 space of a very few moments according as the management 
 and handling is correct or otherwise. Two important factors 
 must be kept in mind, to wit, acid development and cook. 
 The word cook is an expression used among cheesemakers to 
 indicate both the process of, and the degree of separation 
 
20 
 
 of moisture from curd. Thus, a curd with a heavy cook 
 indicates that a large percentage of moisture has been ex- 
 pelled, and one with light cook that a small percentage of 
 moisture has been expelled. These two factors, acid and 
 cook, must HARMONIZE. The lighter the cook the less acid 
 development will be required in order to preserve harmony 
 of action, and the heavier the cook the more acid develop- 
 ment will be required for the same reason. In order to 
 ])roduce fine cheese it will be necessary to not only preserve 
 this HARMONY, but that the cook must be developed to the 
 (correct degree, retaining in the curd just moisture enough 
 and not too much. With properly ripened milk, and cor- 
 rect manipulation and management from stages i to 8, the 
 correct degree of cook is almost assured at the start. There- 
 fore, ripening milk cannot be too emphatically urged in this 
 connection, for every cheesemaker knows that when curd 
 remains very much too long in the w^hey the result is not 
 only a heavy cook, but it is likely to become whey soaked, 
 and is almost certain to make cheese of inferior quality. 
 Supposing a mistake has been made, and cook is not suffi- 
 cient when acid shows on the iron, we must dip earlier with 
 less string. We would then have a mellower cheese if han- 
 dled the same thereafter during interval 8. But by prolong- 
 ing interval 8, and giving more time and hand stirring in 
 sink before salting, more moisture will be expelled, and we 
 are able to secure a cheese that will compare more favorably 
 
2,1 
 
 with our usual make. All light cooked and wet curds require 
 this treatment during interval 8. The kind of cheese desired 
 must be taken into consideration in determining the amount 
 of moisture to be retained in curd at interval 8, and if for 
 early use and home trade more should be retained than for 
 cheese intended for export trade. It is a delicate point to 
 determine the degree of cook, or amount of moisture exist- 
 ing in curd. Various tests may be used, one of which is 
 chewing the curd until it dissolves in the mouth, and noting 
 how readily it will do so. Another is by squeezing a handful 
 for a short space of time to expel the free moisture, and then 
 opening the hand to see how readily it will fall apart to its 
 former shape. Another by noting to what degree curd will 
 squeak in the teeth. Each cheesemaker must educate him- 
 self to these or some other tests, and be governed in this im- 
 ])ortant particular by his own judgment. Heretofore, in 
 considering the matter of cook and moisture as connected 
 with curd, our remarks apply to moisture that is enveloped 
 in the curd constituting a part of it as it then exists. We 
 now proceed to consider 
 
 FREE MOISTURE, 
 or moisture that is retained on the outside of the kernels of 
 curd. An excess of free moisture must be avoided in order 
 to produce fine cheese. There are various causes which pro- 
 duce it, among which we mention: 
 
 I St. Too much acid development in milk, or a quick 
 working vat. 
 
2d. By allowing the mass to cool, or temperature to fall 
 back during intervals 6 and 7. 
 
 3d. Rough handling, so as to break or mangle the curds 
 during intervals 4, 5, 6 or 7. 
 
 4th. Too little acid development in the milk at starting, 
 consequently a slow working cheese. In this case we are 
 liable to have too little moisture in the interior or inside of 
 the curd and too much outside or free moisture, and the 
 curd is too dry within and too wet without. 
 
 Free moisture is retained upon the outside of the kernels 
 of curd generally because the surface or skin is rough or 
 honeycombed, acting like a sponge, which roughness is pro- 
 duced by some such cause as we have indicated. The rem- 
 edy lies in producing and retaining a smooth, fine surface or 
 skin to the curds, avoiding whey-soak, mangling, and too 
 much acid development. 
 
 ACID DEVELOPMENT. 
 
 The degree of acid development rec^uired at time of dip- 
 })ing must vary considerably at different seasons of the year, 
 owing to different qualities of milk and other conditions, so 
 that no definite rule can be given, but must be determined 
 from time to time by the cheesemaker aided by the advice of 
 the superintendent. As has been heretofore stated, different 
 degrees will be required in order to conform to, and harmoA 
 nize with the degree of moisture retained in the curd. Quick 
 vats with light cook must go into the sink with light acid- 
 
 J 
 
23 
 
 and when acid is developing in curd rapidly the whey must 
 be drawn somewhat earlier than when developing slowly, be- 
 cause it will advance more during the time the whey is being 
 drawn off. Observation teaches us that as a rule when the 
 weather is hot cheese are likely to have more body, and when 
 cold less body under the same management. Therefore, we 
 think we can safely say, in cold days during summer a little 
 stronger acid development must be had before dipping, and 
 in hot days a little less. Also with soft flashy feed, caused 
 by an abundance of wet weather, run a stronger acid, and 
 with dry hard feed produced in dry weather, less will be nec- 
 essary. 
 
 THE HOT IRON TEST 
 is the principal reliance for determining the degree of acid. 
 The word string used in this connection, denotes the fine 
 threads that spin out from a hot iron by holding to it a 
 handful of curd from which all the free moisture has been 
 expelled by squeezing in a cloth for several seconds. At a 
 certain point these threads will break oif from the lump of 
 curd, their length indicating the degree of acid. For filling 
 out reports, or for the information of the superintendent, 
 always take their measurement after they have so broken off. 
 The iron must be clean from grease, just hot enough and not 
 too hot, and held very steady and away from any current of 
 air during the test. Tender and slippery curds, such as are 
 produced from very sweet but tainted milk, sometimes will 
 
24 
 
 not string readily under the hot iron test when sufficient acid 
 is developed; therefore the cheesemaker who has no other 
 guide is liable to be deceived. This demonstrates the advis- 
 ability of cultivating the sense of smell and taste, as an as- 
 sistant guide in determining the degree of acid. 
 
 INTERVAL EIGHT 
 begins with the commencement of dipping curd to the sink, 
 and extends to the time salting is commenced. Healthy 
 curds require brisk stirring to prevent packing or adhering 
 together. But with tender or slippery curds, which are not 
 inclined to pack, it is well to stack or pile (stirring occasion- 
 ally) for the purpose of inducing and encouraging the tend- 
 ency to adhere together inherent in healthy curds. The 
 duration of interval 8 should depend upon circumstances, 
 and more time be given with light cooked curds, also curds 
 saturated with free moisture or damp curds, in order to elim- 
 inate and expel the surplus moisture before salting. Moisture 
 is expelled from curd much faster in the sink before salting 
 than in the whey, while acid is not developed any faster. 
 Thus we are presented with an opportunity to correct mis- 
 takes that have been made earlier in the work that have pre- 
 vented securing sufficient cook before dipping. Hand- 
 stirring is also another element in freeing the curd from 
 moisture, and while healthy curds are expected to be stirred 
 continually during interval 8, a little brisker agitation may 
 be necessary and desirable with some curds than others, to 
 
25 
 
 assist in expelling moisture. Keeping curds well together in 
 sink, and not allowing currents of air upon them, tends to 
 assist in increasing cook and expelling moisture, and on the 
 contrary sprawling in sink in a warm room will tend to stojj 
 the cook, and can be utilized with over-cooked curds, But in 
 no case should curds be subjected to currents of air, or un- 
 necessarily exposed in a cold room during interval 8. But be- 
 ware of overdoing this matter, especially in spring on hay milk, 
 for like many good things, too much is perhaps as bad or 
 worse than not enough. It is not uncommon to find cheese 
 made in spring from hay milk, that is corky and tough at 20 
 days, which had been ruined simply by a little too much 
 time and stirring in sink before salting. There is more 
 danger at this season than any other, but the general princi- 
 l)le to be kept in mind is, that when a curd is sufficiently 
 t:ooked and dry without it, you must not hold too long in 
 sink before salting. 
 
 SI AGE NINE 
 is when the first salt is mixed with the curd. The hot iron 
 test is used by some makers to assist in determining when to 
 salt, and it might be well to cultivate this test. The quantity 
 of salt used must be varied to correspond with other condi- 
 tions, which are quality of milk and dryness of curd when 
 salted. Larger quantities of salt tend to retard curing, antl 
 make dryer cheese. Smaller quantities to hasten curing; 
 therefore the market for which cheese are intended must be 
 
26 
 
 considered in determining the quantity to use. Also the 
 sooner a curd is salted after dipping, and the more moisture 
 still present at time of salting should be taken into consid- 
 eration in this connection, as in these cases more salt will 
 run off with the whey. The range most commonly used in 
 this section is 2^.4 to 3 pounds to 1,000 pounds of milk, and 
 must be determined from time to time by the superintendent. 
 ( )nly a portion of the salt should be applied to the curd at 
 one time, making 3 or more applications at intervals of a 
 few minutes between. 
 
 INTERVAL NINE 
 extends from time salt is first applied to curd until put to 
 press, and during siuiimer all good curds should stand 2 to 3 
 hours, while fermented and spongy curds frequently need 
 5 to 6 hours. When the salt is all on the curd it should re- 
 cei\e the most thorough stirring and stacking, by spreading 
 the curd from each end of the sink in turn over the center 
 third evenly, thus insuring absolute uniformity throughout 
 the mass. After salt is thoroughly mixed with curd stir 
 often enough to prevent adhering together, also to prevent 
 the surface from becoming too cool or too highly colored 
 from atmospheric exposure. The temperature of the make 
 room should be reasonably warm while curd is in sink, and 
 no currents of air allowed to strike the curd not even in hot 
 days. In case the make room cannot be warmed in cold 
 weather, the curd sink should be kept covered as much as 
 
n. 
 
 ])ossible. During early spring do not hold as long in sink 
 after salting as in summer. Consult the superintendent on 
 this point from time to time. 
 
 STAGE TEN. 
 The curd is now ready to put to press, and is supposed to 
 have received careful attention and stirring, so that each ker- 
 nel is separate" from any other and retains its original shape 
 as when first cut. Measure carefully, so as to produce cheese 
 of uniform size, measuring their height daily as taken to the 
 curing room. Crowd down with the hand in hoop after each 
 ])ail is emptied, and keep an eye to their neat appearance 
 generally. 
 
 INTERVAL rEN. 
 rovers the time in pressing, which should be light at first, the 
 screws tightened every few minutes for the first hour, grad- 
 ually increasing in force. After cheese are turned in hoop 
 and bandages straightened (which should not be done until 
 the curd is thoroughly united) apply full pressure. Oil screws 
 often, and see that the screws and followers play free and 
 work easy, otherwise the pressure will not be sufficient. 
 Tighten down screws several times after being turned at 
 night, also at intervals in morning, leaving the cheese in 
 press as long as possible next day. Observe the followers 
 and see that they are level, so as to produce a regular 
 shaped, handsome looking cheese. In case a cheese is not 
 pressing level change its position under the screw until it does. 
 
28 
 
 STAGE ELEVEN. 
 
 Cheese are now taken from press to curing room, and 
 should be wiped and carefully examined to see that they have 
 a perfect exterior, rind, and neat appearance, and in case a 
 cheese is found to which these points have not been secured, 
 it should be immediately returned to press and the defect 
 remedied. 
 
 CURING CHEESE 
 is promoted by placing and keeping it in such conditions 
 and temperature as will induce and facilitate the ripening and 
 breaking down of the tissues of curd, and rendering them 
 mellow and plastic. Curing should commence immediately 
 and be continuous after cheese is taken from the hoop. The 
 temperature most desirable is 68 to 72 degrees. Many cheese 
 are injured by being allowed to stand in a cold room when 
 green, and especially if a little mellow or wet they become 
 bitter, and the flavor is ruined ; therefore we wish to call 
 especial attention to this matter of keeping all green cheese 
 in a proper temperature. During the spring and fall months 
 hurry them forward to the central curing house, and insist 
 upon their going often and immediately when a small load is 
 ready (don't wait for large loads), and while at the factory 
 keep them warm. Excessive heat is also injurious, and 
 should be avoided and guarded against in every possible way: 
 Cool your curing rooms during the night in hot weather by 
 opening windows, closing them in morning so as to bottle up 
 
29 
 
 and retain the cool air as long as possible. Always use a 
 thermometer, and examine it often and know what you are 
 doing to promote curing the cheese. For the purpose of 
 testing and proving the quality, it is necessary for the super- 
 intendent to try nearly every day's make of cheese, and the 
 cheesemaker should follow with grease, and paste down band- 
 ages and cloths as soon as done being tried, so as to preserve 
 and retain perfect surfaces, thus avoiding danger from flies, 
 and to exclude atmosphere and mould. The use of factory 
 cloth pressed on the surface, and retained there while curing, 
 produces a hard dry rind, which tends to lessen the danger of 
 injury during transportation and storing in boxes, and is be- 
 coming to be considered a necessity. These cloths can be 
 used over and over again, but must be washed clean, 
 thoroughly removing all the grease, or else they will not stick 
 the second using, and a cracked and damaged cheese will be 
 the result. By soaking these cloths in sour whey over night 
 the removal of the grease is facilitated. 
 
30 
 
 HOW TO MAKE A SOFT, MUSHY CHKESE 
 FROM GOOD MH.K. 
 
 Use a large quantity of rennet, cut very coarse, let the heat 
 run down while cooking, allow the curds to stand without 
 stirring and lump up, dip in a cold room and cool the curds 
 suddenly in sink. Such cheese will be very undesirable, and 
 in order to make them still poorer and very bitter, allow 
 them to cure in a low temperature. 
 
 TO MAKE A DRY, HARD CHEESE FROM 
 GOOD MU.K. 
 
 Use very little rennet, cut very fine, stir very fast, breaking 
 ;ind mangling the curd so as to waste the butter, keep tem- 
 perature to loo while cooking, run a heavy acid, hold a long 
 time in sink before salting, use plenty of salt. Such cheese 
 would make very good cart wheels. 
 HOW TO MAKE A CRACKED SURFACE CHEESE. 
 
 Press very hard at first, causing curd to burst up on sides of 
 followers, allow press-boards, hoops and followers to become 
 sour, by not washing and scalding according to hint No. 21. 
 Use greasy, dirty cap cloths that will not stick to cheese while 
 being cured, thus allowing them to dry and crack. Such 
 cheese will disgrace any cheesemaker. 
 
31 
 
 HOAV TO MAKE A RICH, MELLOW CHEESE 
 IN SUMMER. 
 
 Use rennet sufificient to coagulate in 35 to 40 minutes 
 Allow the curd to come fairly firm before cutting, thus 
 making a moderately coarse curd. Never break or mangle 
 the curds while working. Dip with less acid, so as to corres- 
 pond with extra moisture in curd. Salt fairly quick after 
 dipping. Such cheese will suit the home trade generally. 
 
 TO MAKE A LONG-KEEPING, HEAVY-BODIED 
 CHEESE IN SUMMER. 
 
 Use moderate amount of rennet sufficient to coagulate in 50 
 to 55 minutes, cut comparatively soft, thus securing a mode- 
 rately fine curd, run more acid to correspond with the less 
 moisture secured by previous management. Hold a little 
 longer in sink before salting. 
 
 TO MAKE GOOD CHEESE FROM OVER-RIPE, 
 OR TOO ACID MILK. 
 
 Hurry every stage of the work until curd is in the sink. 
 Use a little more rennet. Coagulation will take place sooner 
 than with the same rennet in sweet milk, therefore be ready 
 with the knife and, commence cutting as soft as possible with- 
 out mangling, hurrying the cutting to prevent curd getting 
 too hard before finishing. Cut a little finer than usual, turn 
 on steam at once, do not stand for ceremony but move right 
 along with the work. Sometimes i to 4 degrees extra heat 
 is required. Do not allow so much acid to develop before 
 
32 
 
 dipping. Dry curd out well in sink, but avoid over-acid 
 development before salting. This heroic treatment means 
 loss of butter, and waste, and is to be deplored, but is some- 
 times necessary in order to save the cheese. The degree to 
 which it may be necessary to carry this hurrying depends upon 
 the degree of acid at commencement, therefore exercise 
 caution and sagacity in the premises, and not spoil good 
 milk thinking it is sour. 
 
 TO MAKE GOOD CHEESE FROM VERY 
 SWEET MILK. 
 
 Ripen it up to the proper point before putting in the renet, 
 then work according to instructions laid down in this manual. 
 HOW TO HANDLE SPRINC; MH^K. 
 
 Use sufficient renet to coagulate in 20 to 25 minutes. Cut 
 moderately soft, and fine, heat to 98 ordinarily (with possibly 
 a degree or so added when you have less than half a vat of 
 milk, in order to overcome the lack of pressure of whey). 
 Do not hold long in sink before salting. Use ^ to ^ less 
 salt than in summer. Have making room warm. Avoid 
 sprawling curds over too much surface in sink, thus allowing 
 too much exposure to atmosphere. Never allow the cheese 
 to stand in a cold room after being taken from press. 
 HOW TO MAKE MOTTLED CHEESE. 
 
 I St. By not mixing color thoroughly with the milk. 
 
 2d. By mixing old and new curds together. 
 
 3d. By mixing curds of different vats of same day's make. 
 
33 
 
 4th. By not stirring the rennet in thoroughly. 
 
 5th. By allowing cream to rise and stand upon the vat of 
 milk before coloring it, and then by pouring the color upon 
 the cream as it lies at the surface. 
 
 6th. By allowing coloring to lie a few minutes on surface 
 after being poured over it and before mixing thoroughly with 
 the milk. 
 
 7th. By stirring rennet into vat of milk before the heat has 
 been turned off long enough for milk to have absorbed the 
 heat from water under vat, so but that the bottom of vat will 
 come sooner and firmer than the remainder, thus producing 
 two kinds of curd in same vat. 
 
 8th. By allowing the surface of vat to cool while coming, 
 so that surface will not come as firm as the rest of the curd, 
 thus producing two kinds of curd in same vat. 
 
 9th. By failing to agitate and keep down cream during 
 interval i . 
 
 loth. By allowing curds to mangle and then lump up 
 during intervals 4, 5, 6 and 7. 
 
 nth. By using a leaky globe valve, thus allowing milk or 
 curds at bottom of vat to become over-heated, thus produc- 
 ing two kinds of curd in same vat. 
 
 1 2th. By hurried heating during intervals 4 and 5, thus 
 searing the kernels of curd over so suddenly as to prevent a 
 free separation of moisture. 
 
 13th. By too free a use of sour milk, or by using milk 
 
34 
 that is lop])ered for the purpose of ripening milk preparatory 
 to setting. 
 
 14th. By such management as will produce a cheese con- 
 taining free moisture. Study free moisture. 
 
 15th. By failing to stir the curd frequently in sink, so as 
 to prevent color from intensifying at surface by too long 
 contact with the air in one position. 
 
 There may be other causes, but we have enumerated suffi- 
 cient to demonstrate the principle that different kinds of curd 
 in the same cheese are very likely to show up in different 
 colors, thus producing mottled cheele. 
 
 TO AVOID MAKING MOTTLED CHEESE. 
 
 Work according to all the principles herein laid down, 
 and do none of the things, nor suffer any of the conditions 
 to exist heretofore mentioned as liable to make mottled 
 cheese. 
 
 GASSY CURDS. 
 
 This may mean much, or it may mean little, for the reason 
 that we have to deal with all degrees of gassy curds from that 
 which develops small pin holes only after being dipped into 
 the sink, and in which the peculiar odor attending gassy curd 
 is hardly perceptible, to the regular floater which brings the 
 curd to surface of the whey as soon as or before acid begins 
 to show on the hot iron, and which sometimes causes the 
 whey to blubber and foam like soap suds, and also develops 
 that rank, putrid, gassy odor which is not easily described, 
 but which is understood by cheesemakers generally. 
 
35 
 
 The principal cause of gassy curd is a fevered condition of 
 milk, and may be produced by over-exertion and consquent 
 over-heating of the cows' blood by worrying, dogging, or 
 hurried driving. 
 
 Another, and still more serious cause, is a fevered or injured 
 udder. Therefore gargety milk, or milk from cows with 
 fevered bag ought never to be allowed to enter a cheese vat. 
 There is no doubt but that stagnant and impure water, and 
 putrid or fermented food are also prolific in creating this 
 fevered condition of cows' blood which results in the produc- 
 tion of gassy curds. Thus the necessity of allowing milch 
 cows to consume nothing but the most wholesome food and 
 purest water. 
 
 Still another, and perhaps the most common source, is be- 
 cause of not removing the animal odor by aeration, thus 
 creating fevered conditions in milk that would otherwise have 
 been healthy had it been properly cared for as soon as milked. 
 
 (rassy curds are most common in hot dry weather, for the 
 reason that the causes as enumerated are then more common, 
 besides the heated atmosphere tends to develop and aggrevate 
 these conditions which would many times lie dormant if the 
 weather was cool. By enumerating some of the principal 
 causes which produce gassy curds we have aimed to suggest 
 the most effectual remedy for them; to wit : the removal of 
 the causes indicated. While this remedy lies largely in the 
 hands of the dairymen, we insist that the duty of the cheese- 
 
36 
 
 maker is not performed so long as he fails to do all in his 
 power to learn and induce the farmer to produce milk that is 
 free from these conditions. Thorough aerating will go a 
 long way toward driving out the fever and preventing this 
 trouble. 
 
 TO HANDLE GASSY CURDS. 
 Should the peculiar odor heretofore mentioned be so pro- 
 nounced as to be discovered before cutting of curd is completed 
 we should expect a genuine floater, and would cut a little 
 finer. The treatment thereafter would not differ much from 
 usual until time to dip, when a little more string will be 
 necessary in order to secure the same acid, as well as enough 
 to overcome the dryer curd induced by finer cutting. Such 
 curds usually require to be worked longer in sink before salt- 
 ing. A little powdered saltpetre should be thoroughly mixed 
 in the salt, using not to exceed one ounce to i,ooo pounds 
 of milk. After salting, the curd requires more time and 
 handling in sink before putting to press, say 4 to 6 hours, or 
 sufficient time for the gas to expend its energy and collapse, 
 so that the round holes will flatten and the sides of cavities 
 settle together. Milder types of gassy curds, such as possess 
 nearly the natural odor and which do not develop until curd 
 is in the sink, simply require more time and handling in 
 order to overcome the gas as indicated above. A loss of 
 (piality as well as quantity will follow with curds that are 
 much gassy. 
 
37 
 HINTS TO CHEESEMAKERS. 
 
 1 . Use every endeavor to educate your patrons how to 
 produce milk of the best quahty, with most profit. 
 
 2. Give each one a copy of Rules and Suggestions for 
 Patrons. 
 
 3. Carefully inspect the milk cans, especially the seams 
 inside the covers, once every week ; any offensive matter 
 appearing yellow when wet with milk is most dangerous to 
 the flavor and keeping qualities of the cheese. 
 
 4. Insist on a careful straining immediately after milking. 
 
 5. Visit promptly the farm, pasture, stable, milking- 
 yard, milk-house and milk-stand of every patron whose milk 
 comes tainted, after he has been notified of its bad quality ; 
 some apparently trivial matter that has escaped attention will 
 generally be found as the cause. 
 
 6. Where whey is returned in the milk cans, urge the 
 owners to empty them as soon as received, and not to feed 
 the whey near a milk-stand, milking yard or other place 
 where milk is kept. 
 
 7. Examine carefully the inside and outside of the 
 opening from the weighing can into the milk conductor ; and 
 just after using look into the conductor very closely for any 
 traces of the yellow matter referred to in No. 3. 
 
 8. Do that every day. 
 
 9. Never use a leaky globe valve which will allow steam 
 to pass through and heat your vat out of season. 
 
3^ 
 
 10. Never use a strainer cloth, dipper, pail or ther 
 eter which feels greasy, or has about it any deposit ol 
 foreign matter. 
 
 1 1 . Empty, thoroughly cleanse and scrub whey vat al 
 least twice each week. 
 
 12. Lift the tin cheese vats from their places for a" 
 thorough cleansing of wood vats once a fortnight, and 
 oftener in case of leaky tins. 
 
 13. In case of suspicion that the tin vat is leaky never 
 allow water to come as high between vats as the milk is in 
 the tin vat. 
 
 14. Always keep your factory and surroundings in such 
 condition as you would be proud to have them while enter- 
 taining company. 
 
 15. Keep your wood pile cleaned up from bottom, using 
 chunks so that it will present a neat appearance at all times. 
 
 t6. Particular care should be taken to use only pure, 
 warm water when turning the cheese for bandaging, befor^ 
 the rinds are fully formed. 
 
 17. (jreasy water is sure to percolate into the body of the 
 cheese and leave nasty flavors. 
 
 18. Caj) cloths and cloths for rinding cheese must be 
 thoroughly cleansed and entirely free from grease each time 
 they are used. Soaking in sour whey over night and the use 
 of salsoda water will greatly facilitate cleansing them. 
 
39 
 19- Curd sink racks require thorough scrubbing on both 
 sides every day, and should be turned out for airing. 
 
 20. Occasional soaking of sink cloths over night in a 
 strong salsoda solution is beneficial, 
 
 21. The hoops, press-boards and followers require to be 
 rinsed with hot water every day, and these with the i)resses 
 should be scrubbed every two days. 
 
 22. No cheese should be taken to the curing room until 
 the shape is true and the edges well made. 
 
 23 Bandages should never be cut to exceed three inches 
 wider than the height of cheese. Wide bandages are a waste 
 of cloth, and injure looks of cheese. 
 
 24. Mark all cheese on the side neatly w^ith stencil figures 
 soon as taken from press according to the following style : 
 
 ^ (representing day of the month) ^ 
 
 24 (representing factory number) thus 24 
 
 "^ (representing vat number) ^ 
 
 25. Never mark with factory stencil or shave boxes of 
 cheese which are being forwarded to central warehouse to be 
 cured, but mark the box covers with led pencil in neat, small, 
 plain figures the date, factory number and vat number, ac- 
 cording to style in Hint No. 24. 
 
 26. The curing room floor should be frequently swept, 
 the shelves thoroughly cleaned after each shipment, and the 
 air kept pure by suitable ventilation. 
 
40 
 
 2 7- Mark the weights of each cheese in neat, plain, me- 
 dium sized figures on the hollow side of the box and near 
 the center so that there will be no danger of figures being 
 covered by rim of box cover. 
 
 28. Always use scaleboard on both ends of cured cheese 
 when boxing, but not on green cheese with cloths on to send 
 to central warehouse. 
 
 29. The edge of box should be level with cheese all 
 around when l)oxing cured cheese and covers should fit 
 close. 
 
 30. Insist on teamster using only clean wagon boxes in 
 which to haul cheese, and see that the load is properly pro- 
 tected from Sim and storm. 
 
 31. Never allow cheese to be drawn standing on edge in 
 warm weather. 
 
 32. See that superintendent tests thermometers every two 
 weeks at least. 
 
 33. See that the flues of the steam boiler are cleaned out 
 every week. • 
 
 34. Keep everything in and about the factory scrupulous- 
 ly clean. 
 
 35. Keep a correct and detailed record of the workings 
 of two or more vats of cheese each week, filling out the blanks 
 furnished for recording the same. 
 
 36. Fill out monthly statements and forward promptly to 
 the proprietors at the end of each month. 
 
41 
 
 37- Finish all of every day's work each day in the very 
 l)est way you can. 
 
 38. Occasionally compare the workings of your factory 
 in all its details with the foregoing reccommendations. 
 
 TESTING MILK. 
 
 In testing milk for adulteration use graduated jars, these 
 should be filled exactly as high as they are graduated, and 
 should be at a uniform temperature of 80 degrees soon after 
 receiving the same. The Lactometer is introduced and careful 
 note of standing of each sample taken and recorded in test 
 book. I'hen set aside in jars until cream has all risen, a 
 careful examination made and the per cent, of cream noted in 
 test book. 
 
 Kxtreme caution must he used that a fair sample of the 
 milk be obtained; and this can be done most effectually by 
 |)utting the whole into the weigh can and dipping from the 
 mass, after stirring the same thoroughly with a dipper. In 
 testing for taint, it is better to take from the delivering cans, 
 taking a fair proportion from each and every can of each 
 individual dairy, thus avoiding any danger of contamination 
 and taint that may be left in the weigh can from one dairy 
 of milk with another dairy which comes after it. Tumblers 
 will be used for testing for taint, and it is very es.sential that 
 they are thoroughly clean, and so handled in taking samples 
 of milk for testing that there will be no danger of getting any 
 
42 
 
 filth into them, nor of getting them displaced so as not to be 
 il)le to tell positively to whem any sample saved belongs. 
 
 Should the test indicate that any patron is watering or 
 skimming, the milk committee or the proprietors, or both, 
 should be informed and the i)atron properly dealt with at 
 once. 
 
 A general test should be made twice each month for adul 
 teration, and any suspected patron's milk should be tested 
 daily until the matter is corrected or suspicion removed. 
 
 Testing for taint, should be made as often as is necessary, 
 at least once each week, and daily, when cheese show that 
 milk is not projierly cared for, until the difficulty is reme- 
 died. 
 
 Each cheesemaker should educate his taste and smell, so as 
 to be able to judge milk as it is received, also to assist him 
 in judging the work of manufacture. 
 
 In testing for taint a sample of each patron's milk should 
 be taken and placed in a shallow box of warm water, except 
 in hot weather. This box should have a number on the 
 l)ottom for each patron. 
 
 In testing for adulteration, paste a number on each jar, 
 and stand them in cold water, except when weather is cold, 
 when a room away from the fire will do just as well. 
 
43 
 Our object in issuing this manual is to aid and assist the 
 cheesemaker in the Une of his duties by explaining many of 
 the general principles of cheesemaking. 
 
 Many of the precepts laid down are based upon old ideas, 
 related in order to refresh the memory, and for the purpose of 
 the more fully setting them forth with view to making this a 
 handy reference and guide. 
 
 Do not suppose, however, that this manual can or is ex 
 pected to do all the thinking for the cheesemaker. He must 
 think for himself, and stand upon his own bottom. We 
 hoj)e however, by this, to inspire in the mind of each the 
 habit of thinking for himself, thereby becoming the better 
 fitted to put in practi(-e the princi])les and ideas herein ad- 
 vanced. 
 
 We also hope to arouse in each that habit of persistent 
 perserverance so necessary to success. We also desire that 
 this be read and re-read until these ideas and prin( iples be- 
 come perfectly familiar, and are adopted as their guide unless 
 j)roven impracticable, 
 
 We l)elieve it possible for the cheesemaker to make every 
 cheese a fine one from milk that is in reasonably fair condi 
 tion. No poor cheese are made but there exist some cause 
 for the defect, which lies in the power of the cheesemaker to 
 remedy, if he sets himself to work with a will. And like the 
 general who commands an army and is held responsible for 
 
44 
 its success, regardless of conditions, so must the cheesemaker 
 l)e judged, and stand or fall by the results of his labor. If 
 conditions are not favorable, make them so. 
 
 If milk is delivered to the factory in improper condition, 
 take measures to correct the difficulty at once. When milk 
 is too sweet, ripen it. If you have no way to determine when 
 it is properly ripened to receive the rennet, study out and de- 
 vise means to accomplish it, and so along down the line to 
 the end of the chapter. Finally, if your are not succeeding 
 as well as you ought, apply more brain work and more per- 
 sistent perseverance, without which failure is sure to be the 
 verdict. 
 
 CHEESE FACTORY RULES. 
 
 I. At the annual meeting of our patrons, resolutions were 
 adopted prohibiting the use of sugar meal, whey, apple pom- 
 ace brewer's malt, and decayed vegetables as food to cows 
 of dairies furnishing milk for the factory. While the articles 
 above named are considered particularly objectionable, many 
 other things may be fed that are also objectionable, and 
 which will produce bad results. We believe that every patron 
 who wishes the success of the factory, is interested in main- 
 
45 
 taining a high standard for Cloverfield cheese, and should 
 co-operate with the proprietors in seeing that this rule is 
 maintained and carried out. And we hope and ask that 
 any violations of the same coming to your notice will be 
 l)romptly reported to the cheesemaker or the proprietors. 
 
 2. All milk delivered to the factory is to be whole milk, 
 containing all the cream, not even a spoonful is to be 
 removed, nor any strippings kept back. The statute fixes 
 penalties for violation of this the same as for watering milk, 
 and we take this method of calling attention to the matter so 
 that none may plead ignorance. As regards October and 
 November milk, notice will be given at the proper time. We 
 ask the co-operation of our patrons in maintaining and car- 
 rying out this rule also. 
 
 3. Milk from healthy cows only should be used, and not 
 until at least four days after calving. 
 
 4. Any harsh treatment that excites the cow lessens the 
 quantity and injures the quality of her yield. 
 
 5. A supply of salt should be placed where cows have 
 access to it every day. 
 
 6. Cows should not be permitted to drink stagnant, or 
 impure water. 
 
 7. Cows should be milked with dry hands, and only 
 AFTER the udders have been washed or well brushed. 
 
 8. All milk should be promptly strained immediately 
 after being milked. 
 
46 
 
 9- All utensils for milk should be of tin, thoroughly 
 cleansed, scoured with salt and s( aided each day. 
 
 TO. The milk should be properly aired, stirred and suffi- 
 ciently cooled so as to keep in good condition over night. 
 
 11. U'he morning's milk recpiires airing as well as the 
 evening's. 
 
 12. Do not allow milk to stand where it can come in 
 contact with ordors from the barnyard, pig pen or any other 
 noxious odors. 
 
 13. It is even more necessary to air and stir milk when 
 weather is cool than when it is warm. 
 
 14. Milk will keep better over night in small (juantities, 
 therefore it should l)e divided in all your cans, or kept in 
 tin pails. 
 
 15. W'hen both messes of milk are carried to the facto 
 in one can, the mixing of morning's and evening's mi 
 should be postponed till the wagon is ready to start. 
 
 16. While the milk is warmer than the surrounding air 
 it should be left uncovered, but when colder it may wi 
 advantage be covered. 
 
 17. Covered milk-stands or houses should be proNid 
 by every dairyman, in which to kee]) milk over night. 'I'he: 
 should be inclosed on all sides with narrow slats, with slat 
 door, thus affording ])rote( tion from rain and sun, also from 
 the intrusion of cats and dogs, at the same time ])rovi(ling a 
 free cinMilation of air. These should be located at a ])erfectl 
 
 I 
 
 
47 
 safe distanc:e from any possible noxious odors. A lock 
 could also be used if desired as protection against tramps. 
 SUGGESTIONS: 
 
 In order to insure finest dairy goods, the importance of 
 pure, wholesome milk, from which to manufactare the same, 
 will be admitted by all. But we fear that many dairymen 
 who supply milk to cheese factories do not realize how sens- 
 itive milk is, and how easily it is contaminated and injured 
 by ■- ontact with impurities surrounding it, or how quickly it 
 is affected from minute quantities of foreign or impure matter 
 remaining about the cans, pails or strainer. 
 
 As milk is drawn from the cow it is impregnated with 
 animal odor, which should be driven out, by bringing as 
 near as possible every particle of it in contact with pure air 
 IMMEDIATELY after it is milked. When new milk is placed 
 in a can immediately after milking, and allowed to stand 
 over night without being stirred, even in cold weather, the 
 animal order will remain in it, and putrefaction or taint 
 soon commence its work, although the milk might still 
 remain sweet. This taint would gain such a foothold, that 
 when heated during the process of cheesemaking, it would 
 develope ahead of the acid, and bad results follow. Thus 
 will be seen the necessity of neutralizing or holding in check 
 the putrefaction or taint, which can best be accomplished 
 by thoroughly airing the milk, either by stirring, dipping and 
 pouring, or by the use of some kind of j^urifier or aerater. 
 
48 
 
 which we hope soon to be able to procure and introduce, 
 which will do the work better and easier. Agitation and 
 atmospheric exposure purifies milk uj)on the same principle 
 that water in running streams is purified, by continual motion 
 and exposure to the air. The purity of running water as 
 compared with ponds or stagnant pools is understood by all, 
 and the same principles that purify water will, if applied to 
 milk, purify it as well. 
 
 The morning's milk should be aired as well as the eve- 
 ning's, for if shut up in the cans during transportation, 
 without first being purified by a thorough airing, it is liable 
 to receive injury thereby. 
 
 Pure air is also essential for milch cows, therefore, as mu( h 
 as possible avoid allowing them to stand in foul smelling, or 
 ])Oorly ventilated stables, and nkvkr allow them to inhale the 
 ])oisonous odors arising from carrion or other putrid matters. 
 Such poisonous air breathed into the lungs comes directly in 
 contact with the blood, contaminating it, thence conveying 
 its poisons to the mjlk. * 
 
 We hope by issuing the foregoing rules and suggestions^ 
 to assist the dairyman in the matter of caring for milk, and 
 trust that as near as i)Ossil)le these ideas may be carried out 
 by each patron of the C^loverfield combination. 
 
 H34 85 
 

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 JAN 85 
 
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 ^^ INDIANA 46962 
 
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