^ U. S. REVENUE CUTTER CORWIN ENTERING A LEAD. "aC '- <^*;'- .,."■'■■ ^., Si.' ■^ T> — ■'» *-,. -^ iff 4 FAST IN THE ICE. nOTH Congress. ) HOUSE OF nEPTTRSENTATTVER. ( Mt?. Doo. 1st Session. ) '( No. 602. REPORT / OF THE CRUISE OF TIIK IlKVENUE MARINE STEAMER C O R ^Y T N IN -rnE ARCTIC OCE^N IN THE YEAR 18S4. CAPT. M. A. HEALY, U. S. R. M., COMMANDElt. WASHT^'GTO^^• GOVERNMENT PKINTING OFFICE. 1 8 .S 9 . ^ or ^. <-. 't^ ^ LETTER THE SECRETARY OF THE TREASURY, IN RESPONSE TO A RESOLUTION BF THE HOUSE, TRANSMITTING, With accompanyhuj documents,, the report of dipt. M. A. Eeah/, V. S. Revenue Marine, vpon the cruise of the Revenue Marine steamer Corwin in the Arctic Ocean in the year 1884. Treasury Department, February 28, 1885. Sir : In response to the resolution of tbe House of Kejjreseutatives of the 17th iustaut, I have the honor to transmit herewith a copy of the report of Cai)t. M. A. Ilealy, U. S. Revenue Marine, upon the cruise of the Kevenue Marine steamer Corwin iu the Arctic Ocean, made in the year 1881, aufl its accompanying documents and illustrations. This report contains the results of some original explorations and observations, made by the ofticcrs of the Corwin while prosecuting- their regular duties in Alaska, and is deemed of consider- able public importance. The explorations of the banks of the Kowak Itiver are the first ever re- corded, although the river has been known through information furnished by^the natives for thirty years. The following is the list of inclosures which constitute the report ami its accompaniments: (1) General reportof operations of vessel for the protectioji of tlie seal fisiieries and sea- otter hunting-grounds, including report of Lieutenant Lutz. (2) Examination and description of Bogoslov Volcano, witli illustrations. (3) Reportof Lieutenant Cantwell of the survey of the Kowak River, accompanying his journal, with illustrations. (4) Notes on the Kowak River and Northern Alaska by Engineer McLenegau. (5) Notes on birds, by Engineer McLenegau, with illustrations. (6) Memoranda regarding the tiora and fauna of the Kowak River. (7) Notes on fishes. (8) Notes on plants. (9) Notes on marine invertebrates. (10) Notes on rocks. Illustrations. I have respect i'ull.^ to request that iu printing the above-mentioned re]>ort provision be made by Congress to furnish to the Treasury' Department eighteen hundred (1,8(I0) copies. Very respectfully, H. McCULLOCH, Secretary. Hon. J. G. Carlisle, Speaker House of Representatives, Washington, D. C. CAPT. M. A. HEALY'S LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. » U. S. Eevenue Makine, Revenue Steamer Cokwin, Martinez Cal, November 10, 1884. Sib: I have tlio bouor to submit herewith a report covering- tlie operations of this vessel dnr- iug her receut cruise iu the Arctic, together with a report of Lieut. J. W. Uowisou, who was located thirty days at Point Hope, aud of Lieut. J. ('. Oantwell and Assistant Engineer S. B. McLeuegan, regarding their exploration of the Kowak Eiver. I would respectfully call attention to the fact that the head of the river was not reached either by our party or the uaval expedition, and the most interesting portion of the river remains unex- plored. As far as I can learn, the naval expedition ascended about four hundred miles, and that from the Gorwin three hundred and seventy-nine — little or no difference. Lieutenant Cantwell had reached his highest point and was returning when he met the expedition under Lieutenant Stoney. We are the pioneers of the river, aud I believe the report of Lieutenant Cantwell will be read with interest. The specimens of birds and minerals collected were forwarded upon our arrival. The floriil specimens aie forwai'ded by today's mail for classification. Those collected up the river ai-e separately marked liom those obtained along the coast. I also forward the report of Lieutenant Lutz of his operations at the seal islands, together with a chart showing soundings, and rocks and shoals surveyed by him. I fully indorse his recommendation that the ofiicer detailed for duty at the seal islands take up his residence here- after on St. Paul Island instead of Otter Island. At St. Paul Island j)lenty of men and boats can be obtained aud much more efTective work be accomplished than could possibly be done by an otficer on Otter Island with but two men. t>tter Island may be visited as often as necessary. The officers of the schooner Adele, seized by Mr. Lutz, all pleaded guilty on the charge for which they were indicted and have been sentenced to.four mouths' imprisonment. The case of the schooner is still undecided. I believe that the conviction of the ofiBcers was due iu a great meas- ure to the attention and perseverance Mr. Lutz has given to the case. Since my return I have learned through men who have been seamen on the sealmarauding vessels that most of the seal taken this year were killed on St. George Island and near the village and directly under the nose of the special agent. This could not have been done if anything like a decent lookout had been kept. I would recommend that an ofQcer of this service be stationed on that island next year, and I think these seal-marauding expeditions will be broken up. The inclosed reports, together with partial reports transmitted heretofore, cover the entire operations of this vessel on her late cruise, and I believe the whole to be as complete as could be expected of a seaman untrained in the work of collecting scientific data. I have to express my thanks to Prof. George Davidson, of the U. S. Coast Survey, for impor- tant assistance iu the work of making the chart of the Kowak River, etc., aud to the various gen- tlemen connected with the U. S. National Museum whose statements regarding specimens of natural history collected by the Cnririn form a. jiart of this report. I am, very resjiectfully, your obedient servant, M. A. IIeal^', Ca2)tain, U. S. Revenue Marine. The Secretary of tue Trkastrv, Washiiti/lon, D. G, REPORT OF THE CKUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. U. S. Revenue Marine Steamer Corwin, San Francisco, November 7, 1884. Sir: I have the honor to submit tlie followiDg report of the cruise of U. S. revenue steaiuer Coruin, under my coniuiiind, in the waters of Alaslia, Behriug Sea, and the Arctic Ocean, during the months of Miiy, June, July, August, September, and October, 1884, in compliance with orders of the Department under date of April 18, 1884. Having completed arrangenients and received on board the necessary supplies, at 1. p. m. of May 3 we weighed anchor and stood out of San Francisco Harbor. At 8.40 p. ui. of the same day departure M'as taken from Point Eeyes and the vessel's head was turned to the northward and westward. For the minor details of the cruise to the Aleutian Islands, I would respectfully refer you to the copy of the ship's log heretofore' forwarded, nothing of special importance having occurred requiting further notice. At 11.15 p. m. of May 16 we anchored in Ounalaska Harbor. On the following morning the vessel was placed alongside the dock for the purpose of taking on board coal and water. Our surplus stove-coal was put on shore that its room might be utilized. Rev. Mr. Hartmaun and Mi-. Wielaud, the Moravian missionaries who had been granted passage on the vessel by sanction of the Department, left the vessel at this place. In preparation for the severe work about to be performed fires were here hauled, boiler blown down, and engine and boiler overhauled and cleaned. On the 19th fifty-four tons of the coal belonging to the service and stored at this place was taken on board. At 10. a. m. of the 20th the town was visited by a very perceptible shock of earthquake, which was felt on board ship. At 8 p. m. of the 20th, having filled fresh-water tanks and boarded the vessels in the harbor, lines were cast off and we stood towards Bogoslov. At 6 a. m. of the 21st the vessel was anchored near this island, and Lieutenants Hall, Doty, anil Cantwell, together with Assistant Surgeon Yemans, were detailed to go on shore and gather such information as they could concerning this remarkable volcano. Lieutenant Hall made a flying survey of the island; Lieutenants Doty and Cantwell photographed several of the note- worthy features, and Lieutenant Cantwell and Dr. Yemans made various notes, which were embodied in the reports I had the honor to forward to the Department. I trust that the facts thus secured, together with the geological si>ecimens obtained, will be of importance to the scientific men of the country, as I am assured they will be of interest to the reading public. I regret that limited experience and time precluded the possibility of fuller details, there being niany phenomena which I think Well worthy the time and investigation of our best scientists. 7 8 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. On May 22 I returned to Ounalaska, and beinj;; in a safe place employed the time to May 29 in taking on board lorty-six tons of coal in bags and doing much work about decks that had become absolutely necessary in order to prci)are the vessel for an extended sea cruise to the northward. May 22 the services of the Coririv were called into requisition by the bark //. W. Almi/, Captain Smith, a vessel which iiad anchored in llio outer harbor, and after two unsuccessful attempts to go to sea, had been obliged to anchor in a dangerous position and requested our aid in extrication. May 2!), having completed the most necessary repairs, we got under way and after touching at Bogoslov on the 30th, stood for the seal islands. At 9 a. m. of the Slst we anchored off St. (leorge Island. From Mr. George Wadman, United States si)ecial agent, stationed at this island, 1 learned lliat tlie. svhoouer Alcuander, a, vessel ostensibly engaged in sea-otter hunting, visited the. island under i)retext of filling water casks, but Mr. Wadman was quite convinced that the master conteniplated a raid on the seal rookeries. Though no seal had been taken on the island by the Ncliooiier, tlu'ee hundred skins were found on boaril. No other vessel open to the susi)icion of being a marauder had been seen in that vicinity. At 10 a. m. we got under way and ])roceeded to Otter Island, where we lauded twenty five bags of coal for the use of the ollicer to be stationed there. At 7 p. m. we anchored oil' St. Paul. On .June 1 Lieut. J. E. Lutz was lauded with a detail of two men to take up his residence on Otter Island during the sealing season. The usual instructions to the officer detailed for this duty were given him. At 4 p. m. of the same day we got under way and resumed our northern course. At 9 a. m. of June 2 floating ice was first sighted, and by G p. ni. it had become so heavy as to prevent the vessel approaching nearer than ten or twelve miles to St. Mathew's Island, where I had intended visiting. From this time up to June 7, when we anchored near St. JlichaelV, the vessel was being worked through heavy drift and field ice, following up leads where they were l)resented, or tracking along the pack ice in search of favorable openings, sometimes under sail alone, or steam, or both, as weather and occasion demanded, the object in view being as early an arrival as possible at the Indian villages in order to prevent traflic in illicit goods. \Vhile thus cruising among the ice several banded seal were shot, with the intention of pro- curing specimens for the Smithsonian Institution, but they sank as soon as thoy were killed. At St. Jlicliael's the ice was so heavy as to prevent our entering the harbor, and we were obliged to land on the outside of the island and cross it to the village. Here I took on board a native interpreter and a Mr. Miller, a practical miner, who desired to accompany the proposed boat expedition up the Kowak River. Mr. Miller was to receive no compensation other than his rations. I would respectfully state that the sheathing and ice breaker placed u[ion the vessel last sjuing stand the severe test to which they have been put admirably, and have enabled us to work through ice that otherwise would have been inipassable. Last year the Golowin P.ay j\Iining Comi)any, of San Francisco, sent a schooner, the A/rt.s7w, with twenty men on board, to Golowin JJay, a small arm of Norton Sound, for the purpose of work- ing a silver mine up the Fish River, a tributary to the bay. No news had been heard from them up to the time of the departure of the Conciti on this cruise. Just previous to sailing I received a conununication from the secretary of the comjiany, recjuesting me to ascertain, if jiossible, their fate or condition. Having this important matter in view, at ^^ ]>. ni. of June S I left St. Michael's for Golowin Hay, arriving at that place at 2 a. m. of June 9. Lieutenant Hall was immediately dispatched to the mining camp for the purpose of obtaining all possible information. He found at the camp four men who had wintered there, and from them learned the following facts: The schooner Alaska left Golowin Bay for San Francisco October 21, 18S3, with a cargo of seventy-five tons of galena ore. The following persons were on board : Cre«-. — Master, William P. (ialhigher; mate, Walter IbK'pfner; second mate, W. Marston ; seamen, Arthur Eaton, James Muir, George, Tom — surnames of last two not known. Passengers.— John Lowrie, Andrew Doulson, Charles Thompson, Samuel Marston, Charles Babb, George Eastman, R. B. Hart, James Thompson, W. II. Cardinell. Diligent search during our cruising revealed nothing concerning the schooner's fate. Subse- quent inquiry among the whalemen, however, resulted in the information that a schooner was seen Yukon River Natives. Coast Eskimos. FORT ST. MICHAELS. INDIAN TRADING CAMP NEAR SAINT MICHAELS, ALASKA. CEUISE OP THE STEAMER COllWli^. i) about October 28, 1883, by Captain Smith, of the Buwhead, aud others, just previous to a heavy gale, between St. Lawrence and St. Matthew's Islands. This spring a schooner, bottom up, has been seen by several parties to the westward of the Aleutian Islands, and in all probability this wreck was the Alaslca. I feel little hesitation in saying that she foundered in the gale referred to, or one subsequent, aud that all hands ])erished. Lieutenant Hall was also directed to make close inquiry regarding the relations existing between the miners aud the Indians. A few questions elicited the information that two Indians had been killed during the winter by the whites for breaking, entering, and robbing the company's store-house. The miners claimed that the killing had been done in defense of life and property, and had been resorted to only as a last extremity and after peaceful means had failed. After hear- ing this plea in justification of the fict, I sent Lieutenant Hall with our Indian interpreter among the natives to make a searching investigation as to the facts of the shooting, the character of the Indians killed, and the general treatment of the Indians by the whites. The natives unanimously agreed that the shooting was entirely justifiable; that the dead men were desperadoes and had been for years a terror to their own people, and that their treatment by the whites had been uniformly kind and humane, Under these cii'cumstances I did not deem further action in the premises necessary, more especially as the meu concerned in the killing could be found later on iu San Francisco. At the time of our visit the supply of provisions in the camp had become nearly exhausted, and I issued to them from the ship's stores sufficient to last them until the middle of July. I informed them that in case they desired to return home passage could probably be obtained on the steamer St. Paul from St. Michael's about July 15, or in case they should fail to make this arrange- ment that they could go down on the Corivin iu the fall. I also agreed that in case they desired to remain at the mine over winter to convey to their camp such provisions as they might be able to purchase at St. Michael's. Subsequently (August 4) these provisions were transported and landed as agreed. On September 4 I found five of these miners at St. Michael's. As there was then no other means of transportation, and not sufficient food at the station to warrant the agent keeping them over winter, I was obliged to grant them passage to San Francisco. In connection with this work I desire to express the satisfaction I feel in being able to be of service to citizens who have interests in these Arctic seas, and at the freedom with which they ask for the assistance of this vessel in matters of private importance, public interest, and humanity; but, nevertheless, I can not censure in too severe terms the employment of persons here without snfflcient stores and with inadequate means of retreat. On June 9 I left Golowin Bay and proceeded to the westward under sail, and sail and steam, and had clear water until the evening of the 10th, when heavy driftice was encountered off King's Island. From King's Island we stood to the northward, working through ice until 10 a. m. of the 1 1th, wiien the vessel was made fast to an iceberg for the purpose of wateriug ship. At 7.20 p. m. lines were cast off and we steamed to the northward and eastward. At 8 a. m. of the 12th the ice by an erratic movement swung around to the southwai'd of the vessel, completely inclosing us in the pack. There being no clear water vissible from the masthead I made no exertion during the day to extricate the vessel IVoin her position, hoping that the ice would 0])en and give us a lead to the southward into clear water. At 8 a. m., however, finding our position growing more serious, as the vessel was drifting to the northward in the pack at the rate of one aud a half knots, I made a determined effort to work out under a full head of steam, but after three hours of hard work I was obliged to desist, as the vessel could not be moved iu any direction. At midnight another attempt was made under steam and sail, aud although for several hours the gain to the southward w;)s hardly perceptible, we gradually entered weaker aud more open ice, and at 8 a. m. of the l.^l h, to the satisfaction of all, and to my intense relief, clear water was readied. The thumping of the vessel against the heavy ice as she was being forced through it was something terrific. At times it seemed hardly possible that she could hold together under the pressure, and if it lutd not been for the sheathing and strengthening received last spring it is, in my opinion, extremely doubtful whether she would have ever emerged from her perilous situation. 10 CEUISE OF THE STEAMEE COEWIN. After gettiug clear of the pack I pioceeded to the westwiuil under sail. At 2.15 p. in. the steam whaler Orca was spoken, and from her ma.ster I learned that but six vessels had entered the Arctic, the rest of the fleet being blocked by the ice to the southward of St. Lawrence Island. Such being tlie case, I deemed that tlie interests of the Government would be best served by remaining in the vicinity of the straits and boarding these vessels as they entered the jurisdiction of the United States. Two weeks later the fleet passed into the Arctic on the Siberian side, and therefore it was out of my power to intercept any liquor they might have had on board for trading purposes. Meanwhile I visited East Cape, St. Lawrence Bay, Diomede Islands, Cape Prince of Wales, and Port Clarence, making frequent but unsuccessful attempts, as the ice receded, to enter Kotzebue Sound. June 15, at Kruzenstern Island, one of the Diomedes, I learned that whisky had been sold to the natives by one of the whalemen, but the most searching inquiries failed to discover the name of the vessel or that of her master. At one time the Indians would say that the .ship that sold them the liquor was a steamer, and almost in the same breath declare that it was a sailing vessel with one, two, three, and even six masts; that her master was a little man, a big man, and almost anything else they were asked. So contradictory were they in their statements that it was alKso- lutely impossible to gather any reliable information as to the guilty vendor. An armed boat's crew, under the command of Lieutenant Hall, was sent to the village with instructions to search the huts and seize any liquors that might be found there. On lauding he was surrounded by a crowd of half-drunken Indians, and was informed by one of their number where a five-gallon can of alcohol could be found. This ho obcained and brought on board. With the single excei)tion noted no liquor has been found on the Alaskan shore, and, judging from the conduct of the natives, none has been landed. The same can not be said, however, of the Russian side, as at neaily all the settlements visited on that shore uatives were seen under the influence of liijuor. Until July 1, when a heavy gale broke up the ice and drove it to the uortliward, little could be done. The drifting ice required the vessel to be kept in motion, while the dense fog renrised to find the mainmast-head sprung. Upon lifting the main rigging and trestle-trees I found the mast-head completely gone under the trestle-trees by reason of dry-rot, and had precautious not been taken the mast-head would have fallen on deck when the trestle-trees were removed. Cutting the mast-head down to good wood, the ship's carpenter formed a new one, which, although shorter than the old, answered the purpose for the balance of the cruise, as it admitted of the setting of a reefed mainsail. The rigging being in good condition and desiring to avoid spoil- ing the gang for a new mast, I had the dead-eyes slipped out of their splices and set the rigging up with wire 8trai)s. In this manner a serviceable mast has been saved for the cruise, and the rigging can be used on the new spar which it will be necessary to purchase. Having completed these repairs, I proceeded to the westward, and on the 'Jth, 10th, and 11th of August visited St. Lawrence Island. Landings were made at the various villages and careful search instituted for further information concerning the almost total depopulation of this island, as well as to prosecute inquiries in regard to the whisky traffic. At the villages along the north shore no signs of living beings could be found, but the still- decaying bodies of these unfortunate Eskimos M'cre lying in and about the falling houses, and weapons, sledges, and canoes were still undisturbed. No native will touch a thing belonging to the dead, and years hence relics of these people will be found here unless they are removed sooner by white men. No new information of a positive character could be obtained, but I feel little hesitation in saying that the reports previously furnished the Departmeiit are in the main correct. Tracking along the shore to the northwest end of the island, we stopi)ed ofl' the village of Tchiboukak, where the vessel was visited by a large number of natives. I was pleased to note their healthy, cleanly, and prosperous condition, their full forms and faces showing that food was plentiful. A visit to the shore brought to light largo stores of dried fish and other eatables, and this, together with their excellent clothing, convinced me that they had taken warning by previous experience aiul furnished positive «^vidence, without the necessity of believing native assertion, that the whisky trader had not carried on his nefarious traHic the past two seasons. The publicity given by the Revenue Marine to the effects of this vile trade had probably induced the traders to keep away. On the 12th we reached Port Clarence. I found here on board the ship Syren four deserters from the whale-ship Daini, who had coine to the coaling station in a destitute condition. Captain Crocker, of the Syren, informed me that he did not have sufMcient supplies to warrant his retaining these men on board his vessel, and believing that they must starve if left on shore, motives of humanity prouqited me to take them on board. Alter having co.aled and watered ship, we left, August 15, for Kotzebue Sound. The whole shore of the sound was skirted in search of illegal WATERING SHIP AT CAPE THOMPSON. A SAD STORY. CRUISE or THE STEAJN4BR OOKWIN. 13 traders, and stops were made at Cape Deceit, Chamisso Island, and Hotham Inlet, but no signs of traders were found. August 20 we watered ship at Cape Thompson, and proceeding on to Point Hope we picked up Lieutenant Howisou and boat's crew. Mr. Howison had boarded what vessels had come to the point without finding trade liquor on board, and had not been able to detect any attempt at illicit trade. From Mr. Howisou I received a letter that had been written me by Capt. E. E. Smith, master of the late steamer Jiowhead, informing me that he had been crushed by the ice thirty miles to the northward of Icy Cape, stating that he was in a destitute condition, and requesting the aid of the Corwin. Notwithstanding the thick fog that was prevailing at the time, we proceeded at once to the northward, arriving at the coal mine near Cape Sabine (where Captain Smith informed me he was) that night. On the following morning, witli Captain Smith on board, our northern course was resumed. Captain Smith made me acquainted with the following facts concerning the loss of his vessel, which I give as nearly as possible in his own words : "On Monday, August 11, 1881, at about 9 a. m., in latitude 70° 32'.uorth and longitude 161° 27' west, and in lOJ fathoms of water, the Bowhead was made fast to a large cake of floating ice, starboard side to. There was a light northeast breeze blowing at the time and a current setting to the southwest at the rate of half a knot per hour. Fires were hauled and the boiler partially blown down for the purpose of repairing seventeen leaky tubes from which the water was running so rapidly as to flood and overrun the ash-pans. At meridian the wind had fallen to a calm and the weather had cleared up fine. At about 3 p. m. a cake of ice, drifting with a northeast current of about two knots, was observed coming towards me. " When about three-quarters of a mile distant I first perceived that it was liable to come in contact with us. I immediately proceeded to run lines and warp the vessel toward the eastern end of the cake to which she was attached, the end being but about two hundred yards distant. When within two-thirds of the ship's length to the end of the ice, the two cakes collided, nipping the vessel between them, raising her bodily, and heeling her at an angle of forty-five degrees to X^ort. Then, as the ice began to give way, a sharp corner was brought against the port side six to eight feet forward of the mizzen rigging, staving a hole below the water-line and between decks. Another point took against the rudder-post, stern-post, and deadwood, breaking the rudder-post off at the water-line, forcing the eriU and the Corwin\s head was again turned to the northward. During the afternoon of the 24th the wind had been freshening up from the westward with snow squalls and overcast, threatening weather, and by the time I had reached latitude 71° 17' north (ten miles distant from Point Marrow) I found further i)rogress impossible. The j>ack was now moving inshore, and the leads began to close so rai)i(lly that 1 found it necessary to order inci-eased speed and carry all sail to escape from the imminent danger that threatened us. Just before we turned the steam-whalers that had ventured to the northward with us becajne alarmed and an exciting race of twi'uty miles between ice and steam comnieneed. The leads most clear of ice were sought with as much care as the necessity for haste would permit, but large cakes of ice frequently almost blocked up the way. Down through the narrow passages, with rapidly turning screws, long streams of black smoke stretching out over the (piar- ters, and all fore-and-aft sail bellying to the stiff southwest breeze, the steanu'rs were i)us!i('(l for a position of safety. Now one would go full speed into some large piece, and when almost brought POINT BARROW NATIVES. CEUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 15 to a standstill the cake would split and the two parts shoot from each other in separation ; again some vessel would come to a staudstill in an unruly inece, and a following vessel would shift her course and strike the binding ice with such judgment and skill as to loosen the former and yet not stop her own progress ; now one vessel woukl slide broadside up on a huge piece and roll covering- boards under, while another would foi-ce her bows high up out of the water until the ice broke and the piecfes were forced up from under her bottom. On board these ships little noise was heard except the orders of the officers. What conversation was carried on was in an undertone, the excitement being so intense as to check the naturally loud tones of the sailors. Each saw and appreciated the danger, and with one accord drew a long breath of relief when a place of apparent safety had been reached. At 7.35 we had got inside the ground-ice and made fast to a large rtoe, Point Franklin bearing south, true, distant six miles. Here we were soon joined by the Orca, Mary and Helen, Belvidere, Bwlena, and Lucretia. At 7 a. m. of the 25th, having received from the Bmlena eleven of the Bowheadh crew (making twenty-two all told, including the two men from the Caleb Eaton), rendered medical assistance to one man belonging to the steamer Belvidere, and taken on board the home mail of the fleet, lines were cast oft' and the CorioMs head was turned to the southward. Working through the ice under varying speeds, we reached the coal-mine near Cape Sabine at 11.30 a. m. of the 26th. Here we stopped long enough to take on board seven more of the wrecked men and proceeded to t he south- ward, stopping at Cai>e Thomi^son to water ship. Here several dead bodies of natives were found in a house and about the banks of the stream. It is probable that they had partaken of some poisonous substance, as they had been well but a short time before. There was no evidence of violence and food was plentiful. A prospectiug paity found evidence of a fair quality of coal in the bluffs forming the cape, but owing to the condition of the ground it was not possible to determine the extent of the seam. On the 28th the Corwin reached Hotham Inlet, and on the 29th Lieutenant Cantwell and party returned on board. A report covering the operations of these gentlemen since leaving the Corwin, July 10, is herewith inclosed. September 1 and 2 I coaled and watered ship at Port Clarence, having left the Arctic August 30. On the -Ith I arrived at St. Michael's. Here I found the Golowin Bay miners, heretofore mentioned, and an army scout in the employ of General Nelson A. Miles, who desired to retnry to San Francisco. For reasons already given I was constrained to furnish them passage. On the same evening I proceeded to the southward and westward, and on the morning of the Sih arrived at St. Paul Island. After anchoring I was handed a letter from Lieutenant Lutz, a copy of which has been forwarded to the Department. I learned from U. S. Special Agent Glidden that there had been two other suspicions vessels about the islands and that one had been chased by Mr. Lutz. He fired upon her and his shots were returned, quite a fiisilade being maintained for some time. At least one ball struck the pursuing schooner. I desire to call the attention of the Department to the courage displayed by Mr. Lutz in board- ing and seizing with but two nu'.n this well-manned and well-armed vessel, and to express my approbation of the course he has i)ursued throughout. The qualities of character that he has shown are such as I deemed him possessed of wheu I selected him for the important duty of guard- ing the islands. Having taken on board the six white and nine Japanese prisoners left at St. Paul by Mr. Lutz on the 9th, I visited St. George Island. Mr. Glidden did not think the Corwin's presence was required any longer about the islands. * On September 10 1 visited Bogoslov for the purpose of again examining the island and noting any changes that might have occurred. Quite a number of new features attracted our attention, and the report of Dr. Yemans on the subject is herewitli inclosed. On the 11th we arrived at Ounalaska. The presence of so many i)eople on board (ninety- eight all told) had now so reduced the quantity of rations that I found it necessary to purchase provisions here. Properly certified vouchers for the amount of these bills have been forwarded to the Department. 16 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. Haviug learned that by proceeding to Belkofsky I conld obtain definite information of viola- tion ot law, on the 12th I left for that place, arriving there on the 14th. The most searching inquiries, however, dev.lopcd nothing. On the following day I cruised to the eastward, touching at Unga and Saud Point. On tlic IGth I visited Coal Harbor. While cruising about iiniong these islands I boarded and examined all the vessels encountered, without finding evidence of other than legitimate trade. September 20 I returned to Ounalaska, and received by the steamer St. Paul a letter from the Department under date of August 21, inclosing a copy of a letter from Jlr. Moulton, a special agent at the seal islands. In reference thereto I would respectfully state that I had already boarded the schooner Vandcrbilt without finding evidence of illegal traffic. Special Agent Glid- den, at St. Paul, did not think there would be any trouble at that place, and I am satisfied if any raid is attempted on tiie seal rookeries that the Government force on the island is amply suflicient to prevent it if anything like a respectable lookout is kept. From the company's agent at Ounalaska I learned that a new volcano had been seen by Cap- tain Ilague, of the steamer Dora, on Tchuginadok Island (one of the Four Mountains), in latitude 52° 4S' north and longitude 169° 55' west. Volcanoes in active operation have frequently been observed in these mountains, but for the past four years they have been inactive. Wliether the one reported is a new eru|)tiou or an old crater returned to activity the agent was unable to say. As much as I desired to visit and examine this phenomenon, the very crowded condition of the vessel and the suffering of my crew and passengers precluded the idea. At the date of my leaving, a day without rain was an exception in these latitudes, and severe storms were frequent. On September 24 one of the most severe gales that it has ever been my fortune to witness in these waters visited Ounalaska. In this small land-locked and mountain-walled harbor the water was lashed into foam by the fury of tlie wind ; the air was filled mast-head high with moisture picked up from the surface, and it seemed almost impossible that the two chains by which wo were moored could stand the shock of the descending " wooleys." The accommodations of the vessel gave shelter from rain, storms, and frosts to only one half of the people on board at one and tiie same time; the men were scantily clad, and complaints to the surgeon were becoming every day more frequent. Fearing that an epidemic might arise from the damp and overcrowded quarters, inwhich opinion I was sustained by Dr. Yemans, I considered a return to San Fran- cisco imperative. There was no means of getting these people to San Francisco other than on the Curwin. Tiie steamer St. Paul was bound to Petropaulowski, in Asia, and the steamer Dora had not space and would not sail until November. At Ounalaska accommodations and food for so large a number of persons could not be supplied for any length of time, and if there had been I sliould not have felt justified in leaving these people here unguarded where there is no protection of the law. Having coaled and watered ship, I left for San Francisco September 25, arriving at the port of destination October 5, after an unusually pleasant voyage. On my arrival I found that Lieutenant Lutz had brought the schooner Adele safe to this port, and had made arrangements for turning her over to the proper oflicers, in compliance with orders that 1 had issued for his guidance. I wish to again call the attention of the Department to the injustice tliat is being done the harmless people of northern Alaska by depriving them of breecli-loading arms. No evil results can come of the repeal of the law in so far as it applies to them, and a manifest act of humanity would be accomplished by so doing. They are a peaceful race. They have no tribal afiiliations and no chiefs, tlieir "omalik" being the head" of a family. They live apart in small villages; cDinmunication is dilUcult, and their languages dift'erent. With the exception of She-sho lik, a I own on Kotzebne Sound, where tlioy congregate during the summer to the number of twelve lo fillcen huiidred for the double purpose of catching salmon and white whale and trading, no con siderable number of them are ever together, and it is not within the range of possibility that any combination can be effected for warlike purposes. Again the wholes.ale slaughter of the walrus by whalers has so diminished the numbers of that aquatic mammal as to almost deprive these people of their main source of animal food. Tliose OUNALASKA. OUNALASKA. CEUISE OF THE STEAMER COR WIN. 17 that are left have become so wild that they can seldom be brought within range of the spear or shotgun. Auj- one at all familiar with the use of arms knows how difficult it is to charge a muzzle-load- ing gmi in cold weather, yet these natives of a polar climate are obliged by law to depend upon this weapon for their principal means of obtaining food and clothing where game has been largely decreased by the very people who forbid them the use of modern arms. In the winter a muzzle- loading gun, after being subjected to a temperature of sixty to seventy degrees below zero, can not be carried into a house or brought near a fire if loaded, as the frost in the barrel will dampen the powder and render the charge worthless. Occasionally breech-loadiug rifles of the latest patterns are seen iu their boats, and the white men coming in contact with the natives raise no objection whatever to their retaining these improved arms. I have no doubt that they have quite a number of these rifles in their possession, and to seize them would be an act of injustice, as the Indians have bought them in good faith and can not be made to understand why they should not have them. For like reasons there should be no restrictions on the sale of cartridges. At present those having rifles are obliged to pay a price for cartridges to fit their arm so high as to almost be equiv- alent to the purchase of a new rifle. I believe that no good argument cau be adduced for keeping these weapons out of their lawful reach, while the dictates of reason and the promptings of human instincts would seem to demand their unrestricted sale. In this opinion I am joined by all who are acquainted with the habits, customs, and needs of these people, and quite a number of the whaling captains indulge in much unfavorable criticism of the law. Until some action shall be taken on this subject, I would respectfully request that the Depart- ment fix nijon some limit to the number of rifles and quantity of fixed ammunition to be used in walrus hunting and for the purpose of sustaining life in case of disaster that should be allowed in the outfits of vessels coming into these waters. WEISEY TRAFFIC. Owing to the continued and determined efforts of the Corwin, and notwithstanding the lax enforcement of the law regarding liquor permits to vessels clearing for this Territory, I am happy to state that the whisky trafiSc in northern Alaska has almost entirely ceased. The beneficial effects of our annual cruises are apparent iu the changed condition of the Eskimos. Sickness has decreased ; the people are better clothed ; more attention is paid to their boats ; food is plentiful ; furs, bone, and ivory for trade are abuudant, and the large number of healthy young children in every village dissipates former fears that the race might become extinct. Satisfactory as is the present state of affairs, it can be continued only by constant and united work. If ettbrts to restrain the trade once cease the natural appetite of the natives for alcohol, aided by the white man's greed for gain, will soon cause it to revert to its former terrible condition. Most of the whalemen desire to see its total suppression, as it places those men who, from conscientious motives and a desire to comply with the law, will not sell it at a disadvantage with, the unscrupulous in competition for the trade in bone, ivory, and furs. The natives fully understand that we come to suppress this trade and that no liquor cau be got on board the Corwin, even if they beg for it on their knees, as they frequently have done. When they see our flag they point to it and say, " Oomiiik'-puck pe'-chuck tou' i-ka" (no whisky ship), ami in describing us to others they generally use this expression. Naturally peaceful, of a kindly and hospitable disposition, and seldom, if ever, quarrelsome when sober, under the influence of a small (juautity of liquor they become demoniac. The most Itrntal fights occur when they are in this condition. Their long, sharp hunting-knives make frightful wounds, and their rifles are used without stint and often with deadly effect. In former years our surgeon has often been called upon to dress these wounds. On the bodies of several Indians I have seen marks of bullet wounds received in these drunken brawls, and the omalik of the Uiomedes, a comparatively young man, bears three deep scars which he proudly told me he had received iu fights, and as proudly boasted of having killed two men while drunk. H. Mis. 002 3 18 OKUISE Ob- THE STEAMEli CORWIN. The wives of these natives, who are usually treated with more consideratiou than we sho\ild expect they would receive from their savage lords, are frequently brutally beaten when liquor has frenzied the men, and it was with unmixed pleasure that, on the single occasion where we were called upon to make a seizure thi§ year, I noticed that the women recognized us as their friends, used e\ery exertion to assist us in our search, and seemed grateful that powerful friends wt-re among them who were ready and willing to do what could be done to soften the hardships of their savage life. 'When I think that citizens of my own country have been the prime means of adding this great burden to the load these simi)le people have to bear, I feel that no exertion can be too great and no vigilance too exacting if it will but bring to punishment these unprincipled traders. If captured, no leniency should be extended to them. The only trouble that has ever occurred between the whites and natives has been when tlie latter were under the influence of liquor. There is a grain of consolation in the fact that usually those who furnished the whisky were the ones to sutt'er. In order that the Department may be fully informed of all phases of this nefarious trade, I would state that some of the "whalers" had beeu accustomed in the "between seasons" to pur- chase in Honolulu, and in the summer to sell in these waters, a vile compound called Honolulu rum, thus adding to their violation of the Indian trade law the crime of smuggling. This liquor is useless as medicine, serving it to the crew would be a species of villainy, and its i)resencc on board should subject a vessel to seizure, as it virtually carries with it the intention to trade. Two or three of the whaling captains openly boasted of having thrown overboard one to two hundred gallons of this rum when they heard the Coricin had reached the Arctic before them. I would respectfully recommend that the Department fix upon some quantity of liquor as sufiScieut for ship's uses and medicinal purposes of these vessels; that the present law in regard to i)rocuriug a permit to carry liquors from a collector of customs be rigidly enforced, and that masters of vessels be required to carefully account for every gallon they take on board. Vessels then found in these waters without a permit or with more than the authorized quantity of liquor on board can be seized and sent to San Francisco. At present it is exceedingly difiicult to determine what quantity of alcohol should subject a vessel to seizure, and I should hesitate to break up what might be a profitable voyage for a small quantity of liquor that perhaps might be considered I'easonable by another. CENSUS OF ESKIMOS. It is almost impossible to arrive at anything like a correct estimate of the number of natives in the Territory of Alaska. The people are migratory and during the open season of the year are in the interior hunting. With the exception of She sba lik, a village near Hotham Inlet, already mentioned, the settlements are nearly depopulated. The native idea of numbers is extremely vague and no dependence can be placed upon their estimates. As a result of my observations, covering a period of nearly fifteen years, I should say that there was not far from 3,000 of these people living along the coast and about 20,000 altogether in the Territory. We can obtain more definite information in regard to the Aleuts and Creoles by means of tiie "Russian Church statistics. These people are graduali.y falling off in numbers and there are now about 3,800. This decrease is probably due to the introduction of new diseases, consequent upon their association with whites and changes in habits and methods of living. Whether or not they will continue to decrease until they gradually become extinct, as has been the case with our east- ern Indians, or finally reach a stage where their constitutions become accustomed to civilization and increase again, is an interesting problem that only time, of course, can solve. That tliey take more kindly than the native American to our methods of living is more than evident, and [lerhaps with i)roper fostering care on the part of the Government they may become fully civilized and the race may be preserved. ATTOU ISLAND. Attou is no longer of any importance, and I would repectfnlly suggest that hereafter the ques- tion of an animal visit there be left to the judgment of the commanding officer of this vessel. Its principal importance has depended on the number of otter taken there. Last year but twenty NATIVES AT SHESHALIK, KOTZEBUE SOUND. ESKIMO CAMP, KOTZEBUE SOUND. CKUISE OF THE STEAMER OORWIN. 19 were captured altogether, and I understand that the natives are to be removed elsewhere this fall, it having been demonstrated that a continuation of the settlement was unprofitable. The crowded condition of the Corwin prevented a visit there this year, but 1 am confideut it would have been fruitless in results if made. VALVE PLACED UPON OUR SERVICES BT WBALEMEN. * That the whalemen fully appreciate the services of the cutter in Arctic waters is beyond ques- tion. On every side one hears favorable comments on the spirit of enterprise that has led the Department to send one of its vessels yearly to these waters with the partial object in view of being of assistance to whalemen in case of disaster. The former distrust and professional jealousy of the service, due to the natural dislike men have of being kept under surveillance, have almost entirely disappeared, the fact being generally recognized that we are friends in need, and while we will conscientiously uphold the laws we have taken an oath to enforce, we are ever ready to be of such assistance as lies in our power to those who are in danger or distress. As soon as the Boirhead was crashed steps were taken to communicate with this ship, and I believe that I am justified in saying that the prompt response of the Corwin merited the meed of praise that she has received. Pushing to the northward through fog and snow and ice, her efforts to be of service did not cease until the northern limits of navigation had been reached, the wrecked crew all on her decks, and every vessel in the fleet found to be safe. While among the fleet the services of our surgeon were daily called into requisition to attend the sick and disabled. In a climate so rigorous and in the pursuit of a business so liable to acci- dent there are cases occurring frequently that require more than the simple attention of a master of a vessel. We have been able to supply this need, and I am pleased to report that I believe the amount of good accomplished has far more than repaid the outlay of time and attention and has been fully appreciated by those upon whom it was bestowed. THE SEAOTTEB. « This fur-bearing animal is gradually leaving the grounds it formerly frequented and is now being found principally on the kelp banks outlying the Choumagin Islands, in the vicinity of Cape Flattery, and even as far south as the coast of California. The persistency with which they have been hunted by the natives, by whites married to native women, and by vessels fitted out for that purpose has materially reduced their numbers and caused them to seek safer feeding grounds. Not only have these hunters used the breech-loading rifle in taking this animal, but I am credibly informed that nets made of salmon-twine, set en echelon along the beaches where the otter is accus- tomed to haul out, are now being used. If this practice is continutd Cor a few years longer none will be found among the islands, and, as the Aleuts live almost entirely upon the profits derived from the sale of the skins, extreme poverty, if not actual starvation, must follow upon their exter- mination. Quite a number of breech-loading arms are in the hands of the people here, and more are being brought in each year. Some are smuggled in by fishermen and other vessels coming here, and the large extent of territory precludes the possibility of stopping it entirely. Every year a few are brought in on permits obtained by parties in San Francisco, and either the i>ersons who obtain these permits allow others to use them or on leaving the Territory are tempted by the high price of arms to dispose of them. This evil may be remedied somewhat by the presence of another vessel in these waters, but that it can be wholly stopped under the present law is extremely doubtful. Allowing white men who are married to native women to hunt is but offering a premium for bigamy and desertion. While the law is commendable in theory, it will not work in practice. Unprincipled white hunters, tempted by the great value of otter skins, come here and marry the simiile girls, force them to accompany them on their hunting trips and do their cooking and work for them, bring two or three children into the world, and then leave their families to get their living as best they gan, while they themselves return to enjoy their earnings with other wives in 20 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. civilization. There is not one cbauce in a thousand of these criminals being brought to justice. The machinery of the hiw in this Territory is not yet iu such working order as to hunt out and arrest persons guilty of such offenses, and it is extremely doubtful if it reaches that perfection for years. That the country is so isolated, so sparsely settled, and the language of the natives so difficult to acquire, are all obstacles that will prevent the enforcement of the marriage laws. • WOBK FOR TWO VESSELS. The rapidly increasing interests of this portion of the country, in conjunction with the neces- sarily widely spread operations of the service, demand the presence of another vessel in these waters during the summer mouths in order to properly enforce the law and protect Government rights. It is simply impossible for one vessel to prevent illicit trade and succor distressed seamen in the Arctic, and guard the seal islands and stop the illegal taking of otter and introduction of arms on the coast of the Alaskan peninsula and among the adjacent islands. These two theaters of action are a thousand and more miles apart, yet the nature of the duty to be performed in both is such that the same attention is demanded at the same time. During the cruise of this year I have not been able to give the attention 1 desired to the southern portion of the cruising ground, and I should not have been able to do so even if our assistance had not beep required by the Bowhead. The Department is fully aware that, as nobly as this little vessel has accomidished the work placed upon her, her accommodations are wholly insufficient to meet the requirements of the service, and it did not require the convincing circumstances of this year to demonstrate the necessity of a larger vessel; but that such a vessel, even if she be as large as a man-of-war, can cover tlie whole ground, as seems to be the opinion of some, is an absurdity that only requires a comparison of the duty to be performed with the territory requiring attention to make it manifest. It is my judgment that with one vessel to cruise from the seal islands to the northward and in the Arctic, and another to cruise from Sitka to the seal islands, the ground can be covered as it should be, and that the increased efficiency with which Government interests would be guarded would more than justify the additional expense. • STEAMLAUNCH. The Corwin is entirely too small to carry a steam-launch. It takes up one whole side of the quarter-deck room that is needed in handling the ship— and the usefulness of the one we now have is limited. The boiler and machinery are so heavy that it can not be u.sed in rough water ; if scut on a boat expedition it carries an insufficient supply of fuel and can not be hauled up on the beach, and it can not be lowered or takeu on board in a sea way without great risk of being broken uj). If obliged to desert ship we would have to abandon it, and a well-tittod sail-boat would be, iu every respect, more useful and desirable. SCIENTIFIC REPORTS. During our cruises in these waters many items of general interest and facts that would be of value to the scientific world can undoubtedly bo collected, but some one thoroughly familiar with the subjects to be handled and in collecting and arranging data should accompany the vessel for that purpose. My mind is so occupied and engrossed with the care of the vessel, and my system so burdened by fatigue aud exposure incident to the discharge of my duties, which frequeutly require my presence on deck almost continuously for days, and at times twelve, eighteen, and even twenty-four hours at the masthead, that I am wholly incapacitated for readiug or noticing with proper care events that como under my observation. At present I am obliged to assign the various subjects to those of the officers that I deem most competent to handle them. While on watch the attention of the gentlemen must be wholly given to the ship, and when below the performance of their multifarious professional duties NATIVE HOUSE AT POINT HOPE, ALASKA. GROUP OF ESKIMOS, POINT HOPE. 0EUI8E OF THE STEAMER (JOEWIN. 21 requires the larger portion of such time as they are not unfitted for mental work by the effects of the chill of the damp, icy atmosphere. Special preparation is necessary in order to properly qualify one to do any of these subjects justice, aud ofiBcers of this service have neither time nor opportunity for such study. It is my opinion that the interests of the vessel would be better served aud the results would be more satisfactory to the Department if a chronicler was assigned to this vessel during the cruises and until such time as complete reports could be forwarded. The shotguns purchased by authority of the Department before we left San Francisco have proved to be of the greatest value and are an acquisition to the ship that I should be loath to part with. They have enabled us to obtain game for all hands aft, a matter of no small moment in these latitudes, besides being the mainstay upon which we should have to depend in case of acci- dent to the ship. No vessel, aud especially one belonging to the Government, should go to the Arctic without them, as the lives of all on board are rendered doubly secure by their presence. With these guns, plenty of ammunition, and the assistance of the natives, a wrecked crew might remain in the Arctic over winter with comparative safety. SROWDED CONDITION OF VESSEL. No description can fully convey an adequate idea of the crowded condition of the Corwin on hethomeward trip this season. In my cabin were' Captain Smith, of the Bowhead, and Mr. Hawley, superintendent of the Omalik Mining Company, an old gentleman, to whom I granted this privilege out of respect for his years and consideration for his feeble condition. In the wardroom were eight ofiicers, the surgeon, pilot, and chief officer of the Bowhead. Three of the staterooms having double berths had two officers in each, and in the area of the wardroom were three swinging cots that completely filled its beam. The officers in turning in and out had almost to crawl on their hands aud knees to get under these cots. There was not room at the wardroom table for all to eat at once. The second officer of the wrecked vessel slept in a locker out of the engine-room. The master of the seized schooner and one of the white prisoners slept in the pilothouse. One of the miners slept in the steam-launch. Two firemen slept in the shaft-alley aud three or four men in the steam-drum room. Four Japanese slept in the paint locker and on coils of rope under the top-gallant forecastle. The sail locker on the berth-deck was cleared out and two berths put in it, and this, together with the petty officers' rooms, was filled with the officers of the wrecked vessel. The two quartermas- ters slept in their locker. The rest of the men were divided iuto watches, but when one watch was below, together with our servants and those who stood no watch, the hammocks were all full, the lockers on both sides were filled with sleepers, and quite a number of them had to place their blankets on the deck. In order to feed them it was necessary to spread three sets of messes and about two hours were required at each meal. The cooking accommodations in the galley were sadly deficient. The decks were constantly wet either by rain or the swash of the sea, and opportunities for drying or airing the quarters, forward or aft, were few. Everything that we could possibly do to make these people comfortable was done, but the bad weather which we experienced, combined with the narrow limits of the ship, rendered their condition anything but pleasant. Notwithstanding the many discomforts and hardsliips which they were obliged to undergo, the wrecked men seemed to appreciate the fact that we were doing all we could for them and kept cheerful under the trying circumstances to which they were sub- jected. It gives me pleasure to testify to the manner in which our own crew suffered the inconven- iences to which they were put by having so many strangers on board. With that forgetfulness of self that so characterizes a sailor when brother mariners are in distress, they seemed to vie with each other in rendering the wrecked men comfortable and to feel that a portion of the credit of assistance belonged to themselves. 22 CKUISE OF THE STEAMER COKWIN. NAVIGATION, WEATBER, AND CUBBENTS. In my previous experience in the Arctic I have never seen a season like the past. From the time of first reaching the ice up to leaving the Arctic dense fog has been almost constant. Cur- rents that have hitherto been considered permanent in direction, if not in force, have become erratic, and others have entirely failed. The ice fell hack before the sun's atlvance slowly and compactly. For three weeks after we reached the Dionrede Islands it refused entrance to Koizebue Sound, and three weeks later still it was hanging with discouraging tenacity around Point Hope. It was unsafe to anchor with any but a short scope, moving steam had to be kejit, and constant vigilance exercised to i)rcveut being dragged ashore by fields of ice moving in the rapid and changing currents. For weeks at a time it was impossible to take observations, dead reckoning was almost worthless, owing to the continual changes in force and direction of the currents, and the safety of the ship depended entirely on the constant use of the lead. Fortunaiely for those who aie obliged to sail this frozen ocean, the depth of water is not so great but what bottom can always bo obtained, and the proximity of land is indicated by regular shoaling with but few exceptions. Yet with this aid and the best charts that we have, several years' experience is nec- essary to enable the navigator to judge with any degree of precision the position of his ship. Any one at all familiar with coasting knows how diflficult it is to recognize land in a fog where marks are well defined — high blnfifs often appearing like low beaches and small rocks looming to gigantic size, while the general contour of the small portion of shore visible may be taken for almost any land that one expects to make. How much more difficult must it be where the formation of the shore for miles ditters but little, as is the ease in the Arctic. Among the best landmarks that we have in these northern waters are the bird rookeries. There is one at King's Island, one at the Diomedes, one at Cape Seppings, one at Cape Thompson, and one at Cape Lisburne. The distance between these rookeries enables one to form a verj accurate idea of the one he is approaching, while the cries of birds congregated at them admirably answers the purpose of a fog-signal. With one or two exceptions these are the only aids to navi- gation in this foggy, unsurveyed, and dangerous sea. In the shallow waters of this ocean the effect of the wind on the currents is, perhaps, more mark«!d than in any other portion of the globe. A moderate wind of but few hours' duration will produce a current in the direction in which it blows and change the set and velocity of all currents within Its range. The quarter from which a coming wind will blow can usually be foretold several hours by watching the drift of the ice in the vicinity of the ship. It is unsafe to lay down any rules or assert that any current will be found to be setting in a specific direction. The ship- master must exercise constant vigilance, pass sleepless nights, note and intelligently interpret the smallest changes in wind, weather, and sea in order to insure with any degree of certainty the safety of his vessel. It is work like this, together with exposure to the severity ol the climate, that soon ages a man and breaks down his constitution. In the whaling service the wear and tear ui)on the systems of officers coming to these waters is recognized and compensated, masters of vessels frequently receiving seven to eight thousand dollars per year and their mates in proportion, the amount, however, depending on the number of whales caught. It is the prospect of receiving such large pay that induces men to run the risks and endure the hardships of Arctic voyaging. Inside the Arctic circle snow has fallen all the past season, and it may almost be said that there has been no summer. As late as August 27 ice was within a few miles of Cape Sabine and at the Sea-Horse Ishmds it was heavy and dangerous. The pack at this time was still to the southward of Point Barrow, and there were few indica- tions that vessels would be able to go to the eastward of that place this season. During the latter part of our stay the weather was exceptionally severe. About the Fox Islands heavy storms were frequent and rain almost incessant. Advices received in San Francisco since my arrival confirmed my opinion as to the vessel's being able to weather Point Barrow this year. As only experience in these waters can qualify an officer for taking care of a vessel in them, I would resjjectfully suggest to the Department that there should always be on this vessel one officer who has served during two cruises and one, one cruise. TRADING SCHOONER SAN JOS^ IN THE ICE. WHALERS IN FLOE ICE, ARCTIC OCEAN. CKUISE OF THE STEAMEK COKWIN. 23 THE ICE. Among tbe ice terms in use by whalemen and those frequenting the Arctic on this side of the continent the following, with their significations, are the most common : Ice is calving when small pieces break oif from the bottom aucl rise to the surface of tbe water. A lead is a strip of navigable water opening into the pack. A pocket 18 a short opening into the ice and terminating against solid or thick ice. This is also sometimes termed a hlind lead. Hummocky ice is rough, uneven ice. Porridge ice is small, finely ground-up Ice. Young porridge is ice just forming. Waking is the following of another vessel through leads and slack ice. Bucking is backing off and ramming ice in order to break a way through it. Tracking is following along the edge of the ice-pack. A Jloe is a large piece of floating ice. Afield is a large body of ice that can be seen around. Land floe is ice frozen fast to the shore. Packed ice is small pieces closed together and held by the pressure of wind and currents. Ice-blink is a peculiar pale yellow reflection on the sky and indicates the presence of ice at a distance. The ice-pack is that large body of solid ice extending across the whole sea and beyond which it ia impossible to advance. Slack ice is detached so that it can be worked through. Ice is said to be slacking when it begins to open so as to be navigable. Ice is said to be nipping when it begins to close by reason of the action of winds or currents so as to prevent the passage of a vessel. The experience of many years in the Arctic has demonstrated the fact that no rules whatever can be given as to the time of the breaking up of the ice. The severity of the winter, the time at which spring weather opens, and tbe begiuuiug of southerly winds that break up the ice, all have their influence in goveiuiug this time. Vessels have been able to enter St. Michael's as early as May 21 ; this year we found ice to the southward of St. Matthew's on June 2, and some days later still in the season vessels have been stopped by it between the seal islands and Nuuivak. The southern limit of the ice is almost entirely dependent ou the severity of the winter. Ileavy southerly winds and swell will break up the ice, and if followed by northerly winds it will open out and the waters become navigable. When once broken up, if the weather is mild, it will not cement again if nipping, and consequently will open more readily to light winds. In cousequeuce of the time of the breaking up of the ice being so variable, no definite time for the cutter to be i:i the Bering Sea can be given, but she should be there in season to enter the Arctic with the fleet or otherwise her missiou will be rendered futile. Northeast winds tend to drive the ice oft" the American shore and westerly winds off the Siberian side. With these few exceptions little can be said of ice conditions. In clear weather the ice-blink indicates the presence of ice and it may be seen a great distance, but in thick, foggy weather approach to the pack must be made with great caution. Its proximity is usually indicated by the slack, and when this once begins to be seen about the vessel it may be judged that a large body is not far distant. As the pack is neared one sees only ice as far as the eye can reach. It rises from ten to twenty-five feet above the surface of the water, in all manner of fantastic forms and shapes, presents all colors of blue, frcan an indigo to an almost white, and glistens in the sun's oblique rays with a splendor blinding to the naked eye. It is a well-known fact that the depth of water and surrounding features of this ocean render the formation of gigantic icebergs an impossibility and no mountains of ice add the sublimity and terror of their presence to the pack, yet there is in this harmless-looking body that which man can never conquer. Inside its solid front no vessel can penetrate and once caught within its grasp it is almost a miracle that she ever escapes. No ship can be built that will stand its crushing force, and no ram be made so powerful as to break its way through it. It is only when the elements combine against it that man can invade its domain. When a pack is reached it usually becomes necessary to track along its edge to find a lead. Whoever is piloting the ship takes his place at the mast-head, and with glass in hand seeks for a favorable opening. Oftentimes days are spent working up and down along the ice without clear water presenting itself, and when it does extreme cantiou must bo used in entering the lead. It is here that the judgment and experience of the ice pilot become a necessity. The weather, currents, appearance of the ice, probable winds, and a dozen other things that would never enter the mind of the novice, are to be taken into consideration before the vessel's head is turned into the 24 CEUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. pack. Once it is determined to enter the lead vigilance must be dpubled and every faculty kept on the alert. The vessel is conned from the masthead, and while directing how the helm must be put to keep clear of immediate danger, the pilot must be looking ahead for the clearest water, and watching ice, sea, and sky for change of currents and winds. If any signs of the closing of the lead are presented, the vessel must be got out as soon as possible, for if shut in, and she escapes being crushed, she will go to the northward in the drifting pack from one to two knots per hour, and it will become necessary to abandon her. If the lead followed up is between the ground-ice and the pack, and the wind comes on shore, a safe place can sometimes be found behind the ground-ice. A vessel may be made fast to this ice with grapnels, or anchored to leeward of it, and lay with comparative safety. If anchored in a current, however, with drifting ice about her, the scojie of chain must be short, and everything kept in readiness for getting under way at a moment's notice. If anchored in shoal water it is desirable to get into the ice as far as possible to avoid the swell, but if the water is deep the ice should be avoided. Generally the presence of ice tends to kill the swell, and it will be found much smoother inside the ice thun out. The bowhead whale keeps as far to the northward as he can find spouting holes, and to take him the whalers are obliged to keep as close to the pack as possible. Usually they track along the Asiatic side in the Beriug Sea and Straits, and as they reach the Arctic, cross over and work up the American shore to the northward and eastward. There is some difference of opinion, however, among whalemen as to the advisability of coasting the eastern side, some believing that it is'better to keep up towards Herald Island. In the Bering Sea there is very little danger in entering the ice as it is almost sure to open and offer a chance to escape before reaching the Arctic. With a knowledge of this fact whalers sometimes enter the ice to the southward of the Straits and endeavor to work through it if they have reason to believe from the sudden disappearance of tlie whale that there is clear water to the northward. In the Arctic, however, the pack is carefully avoided, and it is only when conditions are most favorable that attempts are made to follow up the leads. Point Barrow is approached with the greatest caution, as it is one of the most dangerous places in the Arctic. As has already been mentioned, by far the major portion of the vessels lost in the Arctic are wrecked in its vicinity. Vessels have sometimes been to the eastward of the point as far as the mouth of the Makenzie River, but it is only in the most open seasons and with a prevailing southerly wind that whalemen venture along the northern shore. By October 15 it is usual to begiu to think of leaving the Arctic. To remain after young ice begins to make is dangerous. Ice begins to form in small globules varying in size from a pea to an egg. These globules cement together, and the sharp crust formed cuts through the planking of a vessel like a knife. The bark Helen Man; Captain Baldey, in 1879, the year memorable for the loss of the Mt. Wollaston and Vigilant, in working forty-eight hours in this new ice cut through her sheathing and all but one-eighth of an inch of her i)lauk. It is a wonder that she ever reached San Fran(;isco in this condition. As the season advances in the Arctic gale follows gale, and the fury with which they rage seems to increase with each succeeding ^torm, while maritime dangers rapidly increase. 1 believe it to be a good rule to leave this stormy ocean with the first bad weather after October 15, and there is no necessity of one of our vessels staying later. ALASKAN FISHERIES. The fishing interests of Alaskan America are becoming so important that I feel the Depart- ment should become familiar with the details concerning it. In l87GMr. J. R. Daggett, a merchant of San Francisco, conceived the idea of fitting out a vessel for the purpose of catching cod in these waters. So successful was the venture that the McOollam Fishing and Trading Company was formed for the purpose of extending operations. Other parties, witnessing the success of the pioneer firm, have fitted out vessels, with generally successful results. Until within the past two years the larger portion of the cod taken have been caught in the vicinity of the Choumagin Islands and in the Okhotsk Sea, but these banks failing somewhat, these gentlemen, with the energy characteristic of American merchants, sought for others more plentiful, and succeeded in finding them in Bering Sea. So little is known of this vast body of water that no definite information can be given in regard to the extent of these banks, Imt those interested and best acquainted with the STEAM WHALER MARY AND HELEN. WHALING BARK BESET BY ICE. CEUISE OF THE S;rEAMEE COEWIN. 25 subject are quite enthusiastic, aud there is uo doubt that in a short time the cod-fishery will be holding its owu with the salmon on this coast. The following letter from the McCoUam Company will convey some idea of the extent of the enterprise : "Office of McCollam Fishing and Trading Company, " San Francisco, October 21, 1884. " Dear Sir : Eeferring to your inquiry as to the amount of cod fishing carried on in the vicinity of the Alaskan peninsula, we would say, that at our fishing and trading station on Choumagin Islands (Pirate Cove) we have ten men regularly employed; also two small schooners trading and fishing in the vicinit}', provisions, gear, salt, etc., going up and fish being carried down on the schooner Czar (140 tons), which makes three trips each year between this port and our station. There have also been two schooners belonging to another firm, and carrying about sixteen men each, fishing at the Choumagin Islands this season. " We had in the Bering Sea the bark H. W. Almy (314 tons) fishing on the northern shore of the peninsula. She carries a crew of thirty-five men and has capacity for three hundred tons of cod. These comprise the codfish fleet in Alaskan waters for the season of 1884. "Of the eleven vessels comprising the Okhotsk Sea fleet, owned by ourselves and others, not one got a full fare this season, while the H. W. Almy nearly filled herself in the Bering Sea, besides sending down sixteen thousand fish by the schooner Czar. " We therefore look for an accession to the Bering Sea fleet next year. The Bering Sea is mucli nearer to this port than the Okhotsk Sea and the fish are of superior quality, but so little is known of the fishing banks that owners have preferred sending to the Okhotsk, which has never failed before, to risking a broken voyage in the comparatively unknown Alaskan waters. "The codfish found so far have been in spots, and although well-defined banks undoubtedly exist, they have never been prospected as thoroughly as they should be. The coast, too, is so little known that vessels are obliged to proceed with extreme caution, especially during the foggy weather, prevailing a great part of the summer. Should the opportunity present, we would respectfully suggest that soundings be made, with a view of locating shoals and cod-banks in and about the Bering Sea, and suitable harbors and anchorages where vessels might water up in the vicinity. " There is considerable capital employed in the business at this port and it is steadily increas- ing. Our company alone emi^loys one hundred and twenty-five fishermen during the season and from forty-five to seventy-five during the greater part of the year at our curing establishment at Pescada Lauding, near San Francisco. "There are two other firms employing nearly as many men, and should new and profitable grounds be discovered nearer than the Asiatic shore the business would be considerably extended. " In closing permit us to thank you for the information given us which you obtained on your last cruise, and for the use of charts recently made by you. " Very respectfully, yours, "The McCollam Fishing and Trading Company, , "Per C. P. Overton, Secretary. «Capt. M. A. Healy, " Commanding U. S. Revenue Steamer Cortvin.^'' The following are some of the cod-fishing statistics in Alaskan waters: Lynde & Hough, Front street, near Pacific: 1883. Schooner Hancocli, 1G5 tons. 1884. Schooner Eancoch, 0G,677 fish. 1884. Schooner Dashing Wave, 85,000 fish. The gentlemen state the business to be profitable and intend to continue and increase facilities. McCollam Fishing and Trading Company : 1884. Fishing station. Pirate Cove, 279,000 fish. 1884. Bark Helen Almy, Behring Sea, 202,000 fish. Anderson & Co. : 1884. Schooner Isabel, Behring Sea, 90,000 fish. 26 CEUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. OKHOTSK SEA. John Malloy : 1S84. Schooner Gencoe, 42,000 fish. McCollaiu Fishinff and Trading Company : 1884. Schooner JJera, 135,00(t fi.sli. 1884. Schooner TroiJtc Bird, 82,000 Ush. Lyndo & Ilongh : 1884. Schooner ylrflf(/o, 80,000 lish. 1884. Schooner Jane A. Fcdkcnhon, 130,000 fish. 1884. Schooner Fremont, 118,000 fish. N. Bechard: 1884. Schooner San Luis, 90,000 fish. 1884. Schooner C'o«s/;<«?/oM, 101,000 lish. 1884. Schooner Francis Alice, 40,0(i(t iisli. Anderson & Co.: 18S4. Schooner Wm. II. Meyer, 90,0(10 tish. The salmon industry is becoming quite as important in Alaska as on the Oregon and Cali- fornia coasts. The king salmon taken in northern Alaska arc considered as good as, if not finer than the world-renowned CoUimhia River fish. They are very large, the tlesh has a remarkably rich salmon color, and on opening the cans the liquor on the fish is found to be covered with oil, one of the best tests of excellent quality. Generally the salmon of Alaska are very fine, and there seems to bo no limit to the supi)ly. That the business is profitable the increased quantity of fish taken each year by the parties engaged in the business, as shown by the following statistics, bears sulficient evidence. (A barrel contains 200 pounds of fish; a case contains four dozen one-pound cans.) Neville & Co., cannery Beaton Island.— 1883, 378 barrels; 1884, 1,500 barrels. C. C. Rahlfs.— 18-!3, 1,200 barrels; 1884, 2,300 barrels. Arctic Packing Company, Nushegak, Bristol Bay. — 1884, 2,200 barrels. Sisson, Crocker & Co., Klawack, Prince of Wales Island. — 1884, 6,000 cases. Cutter Packing Company, Kusilofl" River, Cook's Inlet.— 1882, 0,500 cases; 1883, 1,500 cases 1884, 21,000 cases. Alaska Commercial Company.— 1880, 100 barrels; 1881, 788 barrels; 1882, 1,088 barrels; 1883, 1,459 barrels. This firm then consolidated with the — Karluck Packing Company, Karluck, Kodiak Island. — 1882, 4,102 cases, 1,493 barrels; 1883, 13,470 ciises, 2,072 barrels ; 1884, 20,170 cases, 2,081 barrels. The gentlemen (lomprising these firms all state that the business is profitable, and that they intend to continue. An aggregate of these amounts shows that there has been taken, in 1884, 8,081 barrels and 47,170 cases of silinon in the waters of Alaska. A business that has reached these proportions I think may well be called an industry. I have the honor to be, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, M. A. Healy, Captain U. 8. Revenue Marine. The Secretary of the Treasury, Washington, D. G. NATIVE SUMMER VILLAGE, PLOVER BAY, SIBERIA. NATIVE HUT OR BARRABORA, ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. CEUiaE OF THE STEAMEK COKWm. 27 REPORT OF LIEUT. J. W. HOWISON. U. S. Eevenue Mabink Steamer- Cobwin, August 21, 1884. SiE: I Lave the honor to make the following report concerning my stay at Point Hope, Alaska, while acting in obedience to your orders of Jnly 24, 1884. Lauding at 10.30 a. m. of that date with the dinghy of this vessel and a detail of two men, I camped at a convenient place for boarding such vessels as might arrive in the vicinity and for preventing illicit trafiQc with the natives. The following whalers were boarded and examined: July 25, bark Abraham Barker, of New Bedford, Tobey, master, sailed July 26. August 1, bark Mabel, of New Bedford, Cook, master, sailed August 1. August 3, baik Arnohla, of New Bedford, Marvin, master, sailed August 4. No contraband goods were found on either of these vessels, and although closely watched I detected no attempt at illicit trade. On July 31 1 sounded around the Point and found not less than three fathoms of water until within two ships' lengths from the beach. I found the current about the Point to follow the trend of the laud out of Kotzebue Sound and to the northward, and to vary in velocity from one to two knots as the wind was against or with it. At C.30 a. m. of August 14 the steam-whaler Narwhal, Captain Millard, anchored off the camp and reported the loss of the steamer Bowhead, Captain Smith, which had been crushed in the ice near Wainwright Inlet, and had become a total wreck so quickly as not to ailuiit of the saving of stores. Captain Millard informed me that he had not provisions enough to feed the wrecked men, and that he had come to the Point for the purpose of obtaining the assistance of the Gorwin. I informed him that I would report the wreck to you immediately upon the arrival of the Gorwin. He then left for the northward with the intention of leaving some of the wrecked men at the coal mine near Cape Lisburne. In the two villages at the Point there were but about tifty natives, the rest being away hunting. I could find no traces of liquor in their houses, and I did not see one of them under the influence of liquor. Tliey evidently knew that I was there to prevent liquor being sold to them by whalers and traders, but notwithstanding this my relations with them were pleasant, and I can report them friendly and honest. On August 20 I rejoined the Gorwin. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, J. W. HOWISON, Second Lieutenant, U. 8. Revenue Marine, Capt. M. A. Healy, Gommanding Revenue Uteamer Gorwin. 28 CEUISE OF THE STEAJMEK (JOEWIN. ORDERS TO LIEUT. J. E. LUTZf. U. S. Revknue-Maeine Steajvier Coewin, May 22, 1884. Sir : Pursuant to Departmeut's order to detail au ofiBcer and two ineu to jirotect seal-life on Otter Island, you are Lereby detailed, with Seamen Josenii Lucas and Thomas Brayil, for that duty. After landing at St. Paul's Island you vrill proceed as soon as possible to Otter Island and keep a vigilant lookout during the season that no one is permitted to disturb or take seals from Otter Island and that no unauthorized person or persons be allowed to land either on Otter Island or St. Paul's Island. You will keep a journal during your stay of wind, weather, etc., and anything worthy of note that may transijire. Gather, also, notes relative to natives on St. Paul's Island, native population, customs, system of education, occupation, etc., and anything regarding the people, seal-life, et(!., that you may deem worthy of note. In case of sickness, either to yourself or men, you will seek medical attendance on St. Paul's Island. You will leave Otter Island August 20, or as soon thereafter as possible, for St. Paul's Island, and there await the arrival of the Corwin. You will seize or arrest any vessel or person attempting to take seal contrary to law; if persons, hold them in custody until the Corn-in arrives; if a vessel, seize her, convey her to San Francisco and deliver her to the proper authorities for prosecution, having first obtained necessary evidence. Very respectfully, M. A. Heaxy, Captain, U. S. Revenue Marine. Third Lieut. John E. Lutz, U. S. Revenue Marine. REPORT OF LIEUT. J. E. LUTZ. U. S. Eevenue-Maeine Schoonee Adele, San Francisco, October G, 1884. Sir: I have the honor to submit the following report: In obedience to your orders of May 22, a copy of which is herewith transmitted, I landc^l tVom the Corivin at St. Paul's Island June 1. I found the affairs of this island in an excellent condition. Wholesome sanitary regulations are enforced and unusually good health has prevailed during the past year. All of the natives are now living, rent free, in comfortable frame houses which have been erected by the lessees of the island, in pla(;e of the dumi) and unhealthy "barrabkies" in which these peoi)le formeily dwelt. Too much can not be said in commendation of the manner in which the Alaska Commer- cial Com|)any, the present lessees of the island, fulfilled faithfully all the terujs of their contract with the Government. The metiiod of taking seals has been reduced to an admirable system, and every precaution is taken to prevent a dimiiuition of seal life. The natives are treated exceed- ingly well and none of them are permitted to remain in want of the necessaries of life. They are ST. PAUL'S, PRIBYLOFF ISLANDS. '•v^ FUR SEAL ROOKERY, PRIBYLOFF ISLANDS. CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 29 not required to work, although such us desire it are given remunerative employment. By reason of the high price allowed for the labor of skinning seals, these people are able to earn in less than two months a sum amply sufficient to maintain them during the entire year, a sum much larger in fact than the average amount received by laboring men in the United States for a year's work. In addition to this they are supplied free of charge with a quantity of fuel, salt meat, condensed milk, etc., while they have no rent to pay. In religion they adhere firmly to the tenets of the Greek Church. While this church doubtless exercises a good influence over these people spirit- ually, it drains their pockets systematically to the extent of some thousands of dollars annually, not for the benefit of the church at St. Paul alone, but for the benefit of the church authorities in San Francisco, to whom the major portion is sent. Like all other iirimitive people, these natives possess an inordinate longing for intoxicating liquors of any description. Fortunately all means of gratifying that desire are now denied them. They are allowed neither sugar nor hoi)s, and can not, therefore, make quass. Gambling is their favorite jiastime and is a habit which can not be checked. No bad effects are perceptible, however, as the stakes are usually small. The company retain to the credit of every man a sum sufficient to buy provisions for their families until such time as they can earn more on the seal field, thus i)reveuting the men from squandering all of their money and leaving their families destitute. They would readily invest all of their earnings in jellies, preserves, sweet crackers, silks, etc., but the company will sell them these articles only in limited quantities, encouraging them to buy useful and necessary supplies instead. By precept and example on the part of the Government agents and the employes of the company, these natives are encouraged to lead an upright and industrious life. The welfare of these people and the interests of the Government are well taken care of by Mr. H. A. Glidden, special agent in charge of the seal islands. Such statistical information as I have been able to collect in regard to the island of St. Paul is set forth in the following tables : Table shotmng the niimhir of people on the Mand of St. Paul at the end of each year, and the number of deaths occurring each year, with the causes of death ascribed. Number of CO Native popxU^tion. whites temporary residents. n1 Number of births. Number of deaths. Malea. Females. m ° o " ♦- Causes. Cm Tear. 9 o o •3 UD a "s a, <*■* o .1 Vi Cm O 1 a IB O t^. O a o .2 a B 00 6 a, > •^ a r a i ta > O a & a o O 1 1 (a □ 1 IS ID 'P a B CD g 03 n OQ 1 W a 1 O g a i i2 t4 M 1 a o 1872.. 1873.. 1874.. 1875.. 67 72 77 83 30 23 22 20 9 6 8 11 65 67 68 73 31 36 36 37 16 13 16 20 218 217 227 244 58 61 79 68 8 6 8 8 2 1 3 3 228 224 238 255 4 2 5 4 6 2 9 8 10 4 14 12 2 2 1 1 10 1 1 1 3 3 4 7 10 15 10 9 1 .... 5 2 ... 1876.. 1877.. 1878.. 1879.. 79 80 75 82 25 23 25 22 16 16 18 24 79 85 86 86 33 30 33 43 22 26 25 25 265 260 262 284 73 81) 81 86 5 5 6 7 2 2 1 262 267 268 292 10 6 7 10 11 7 12 9 21 13 19 19 .... 2 1 2 1 2 2 3 10 14 7 8 18 18 21 18 1 3 1 2 3 7 1 1 1 1880.. 80 20 18 88 36 37 279 86 7 3 289 9 12 21 2 4 1 1 U 20 1881.. 78 22 23 88 37 35 285 82 7 292 10 10 20 6 3 ... 4 ... 2 2 17 1882.. 1883.. C2 62 21 20 18 17 76 76 38 44 21 11 236 230 77 71 10 9 1 2 247 241 8 12 4 5 12 17 5 S 5 2 40 7 50 26 1 9 2 ... 30 CRCISE OF THE STEAMER CORWEN. Table showing the number of arrivals of ress0ls at the island of St. Paul. Tear. Description. Total number of arrivals. Character. Steamera. Barks. Brigs. Schooners. Conip(in.T'B Teasels. GovemmeDt vessels. Whalers. Traders. Yachts. 1872.... 1873.... 1874.... 1876.... 1876.... 1877.... 1878... 1879.... 1880.... 1881... 1882. . . . 1883 ... 1884.... 6 11 10 9 10 13 13 12 8 2 1 1 3 1 3 1 3 4 1 1 1 2 9 5 8 6 8 13 14 13 13 16 15 13 12 9 5 5 6 G 6 11 9 8 9 9 10 8 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 6 ., 3 3 5 4 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 Table shotoing the number of seals taken on the island of St. Paul, number of scalers employed, time occupied, the amount paid to the sealers, etc. Year. Nnmber of Reals Knmber of Haulers Number ol (lays occnpu'd. Amount di^tributeit among tlie Aoiiunt re- maining to creilit of natives at Value of sealing-ioolA, stores, etc., imported ployed. SL-alers. bejiinninKof (luring the the season. year. 1871.... 77, 134 76, 040 75, 437 70 55 $31, 434 30, 638 29, 675 $11, 855 18, 085 29, .'i99 1872.... 74 50 1873.... 74 40 1874.... 74, 924 70 39 30, 067 30, 374 31,961 39, 655 1875.... 75, 699 80,000 78 35 28, 020 32,049 1876.... 88 33 $7, 625 1877.... 60,199 80 29 24, 128 11,860 24, 746 1878 .. 82, 000 77 33 32,849 1.^482 44, 391 1879 .. 80, 000 78 33 32, 153 17, 957 42, 109 1880.... 80,000 84 34 32, 104 20, 668 49, 050 1881... 79,905 76 35 31,870 27, 32.-. 49, 713 1882 ... 80, 000 67 37 33, (08 20,706 52, 188 1883.... 60,000 64 36 23, 994 20, 465 43, 000 1884.... 85,000 63 38 32, 020 20, 213 39, 121 I aai unable to give tbe increase, or deerease of poimlatioii that may be caused by immigration or emigration, but it may be deduced, a|)i>roxiiiiately, from the lirst of the tables here given. At least one interesting fact is shown by this table, namely : That while a given number of deaths occurring during a given year is about equal to the uumber of births recorded during the same time, an ei)idemic visits these people at intervals and carries oft' a number who are never replaced, proving conclusively that the race is on the decrease. By the table on the preceding page it will be observed that there is a gradual decrease in the number of days required for making the catch, which goes to prove an increase in the seallife on this island. The catch for this season was comi)leted on the 21st of July, and although unusual care had been exercised in the selection of the animals, in order to secure the highest grade of skins, tbe whole work was done in the shortest space of time, considering the number of seals taken and the men employeii. The natives of 8t. raul are required to drive the .seals up Irom the beaehes and perform the aited for the return of the boats. The master nieanwliile jileadcd to be released, making various excuses, and saying that I would "lose nothing" if I would let the vessel go. In a shoit time the three boats belonging to the vessel came back loaded with seal carcasses. Having now secured all necessary evidence, I notified the captain of the seizure of the vessel. It was not without trouble that 1 succeeded in overcoming a manifest disposition to resist the seizure. 1 had now six white men to contend with, and some of them were outspoken in their determination not to be arrested. They were beginning to arouse a spiiit of resistance in the captain also, when I called him aside, formally notified him that I seized his vessel in behalf of the Government of the United States, warned him against resistance, and demanded the ves.sel's pai)ers. He immediately surrendered thein, and the other men then resigned themselves to their fate. There was an occasional outbreak on the part of one or the other of the more tur!udent ones, but nothing serious occurred from first to last. By the schooner's papers she was shown to be the Adele, of Hamburg, Gustave Isaacson, master, with three officers and a crew of eighteen Japanese. In addition to the four white men belonging to the vessel, I found on board two others whose presence was not accounted for except by a verbal statement from the captain that they were passengers. They were ashore with the others killing seals at the time I boarded the vessel. One of the passengers, Sullivan by name, was more disi)osed to resist arrest than any of the others, saying that all he possessed " was in the vessel." The Adilc, as exhibited by her papers, was built at Shanghai in 1877, and measures " fifty British tons." She sailed from Yokohama April 9 last, having cleared for a hunting voyage to the North Pacific, the Kurile Islands, and return. She was therefore out of the waters for which she cleared, in addition to which she had no nanui i)ainted on the stern. Many of iIk- seals brought off' by the boats were thrown overboard in the attempt to get away, but I secured twenty one, and afterwards had the skins removed and salted. The vessel con- tained, besides, two hnndied and seventeen sealskins, ten sea otter skins, eighteen sea-lion skins (poor), thirteen fox-skins, forty-two sacks of salt, foi ty-two mats of salt, and thirty-eight mats of rice. After daylight we got the vessel under way and proceeded to the village. The master and officers of the vessel refused to have anything more to do with her management, and it therefore became necessary to detain them as prisoners. As I could not hope to keep six wellarmetl men under restiaint with my small force, and as the vessel did not afford any safe place for confine- ment, I deemed it necessary to seinl them ashore to be kept there until your arrival. The agent of the comiiany generously offered to provide quarters and food for them as prisoners, and the special agent kindly volunteered to assume charge of tliem. The crew then refused duty. I iletained five of them on board and sent the remainder ashore. Soon after our arrival at the village, word was received by telephone from Nortlieast Point that a schooner was there engaged in the capture of seals, and that another vessel was ai)proai-h- ing from the northward. It was necessary to drive off' these marauders as soon as possible, .so 1 procured a fresh crew of natives and started forthwith. As the Adele could not be left with safety, owing to the want of any harbor, I considered it advisable to use her for tlie purpose of giving chase to the others. Upon reaching Northeast Point I saw one schooner lying at anchor, about six miles oft' shore, II. Mis COL' 3 34 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. her people being then engaged probiibly in skinning the seals taken from the beach. As soon as I stood oft' in her direction she got under way for the northward. Then she stood off and on, making signals by dii)ping the i)eak of her mainsail, from which, as well as from a chance remark made by one of the officers of the Adele, I inferred that these vessels had been acting in concert. Finally she hove to when nine or ten miles off-shore and waited for me. It was dusk when I drew near her and her people could not distinguish the revenue flag until I was within one hundred yards of her. I then observed that the vessel's name had been painted out. She immediately tilled away and made all sail. My hail was answered by her people, who refused to give the schooner's name, and no attention was paid to the order to heave-to until boarded. I caused two shots to be fired across her bow and two into the upper part of her rigging, hailing her i)eoplo after every shot and repeating the order for them to heave-to. Muttered imprecations were the only reply until after the fourth shot, when they fired into us. I then directed my men to aim lower, so as to rake the decks of the other vessel. I stoi)ped the fire at intervals to see if she would heave-to. She fired five or six shots into us, which we returned with fifty or sixty rounds. We suffered no damage, and they ])robably received little or no injury, as they were all under cover. Darkness had set in, the wind freshened, and I finally abandoned the chase. I saw no hope of being able to take the vessel with my small force, or at least of doing it without endangering the one already captured. I reached the village on the following morning, September 2, and made preparations for the voyage to San Francisco. A small supjdy of stores was needed, as the vessel was poorly supplied, and many of such articles as were on board had been rendered worthless by dampness. I pro- cured such things as were absolutely necessary, and I respectfully request that bills for the same, when submitted by the Alaska Commercial Company, be approved by you and forwarded to the Department, with an application to have them allowed and ordered to be paid. Having found that in order to work the vessel safely more men would be required, I persuaded four more of the Japanese to come on board and turn to, representing that such a course was the only one by which they could hope to get their pay. They had all shipped for a voyage of seven mouths from April 7, at from seven to thirteen dollars per mouth, receiving two months' wages in advance. As soon as the last-named four members of the crew arrived on board the whole com- pany held a consultation, and then gave me to understand that as the vessel was short-handed they would not go with her unless they were promised higher wages. As I could not guaranty that, I told them they could go ashore and forfeit all claim for wages already earned. It seemed likely that I should be obliged to commence the voyage without a crew. At last they agreed to remain on board, and they have served faithfully and well. Three vessels were reported in sight that day, bnt as the authorities had now been given sufficient time for equipping and sending out armed parties to i)rotect different portions of the island, I considered it uunecessarj- for me to remain. At midnight I got under way and proceeded towards Ounalaska. The rudder was loose in the pintles, and was not therefore in a safe condition, for which reason I desired to put into the nearest harbor to effect the necessary repairs. I was prevented from doing so, however, by con- tinued thick weather and alternate gales and calms. It was impossible for me to find the way into the harbor unless able to see the land, as 1 had no reliable chart and no record of the error or rate of the chronometer. After a delay of five or six days I gave up the attempt, worked to the east- ward, cleared Ounimak Pass September 12, and thence had a prosperous passage to this port, arriving at 2 p. m. September 28. Upon reaching here I transmitted a telegram to the Department, reporting the seizure of the vessel and arrival here. On the 29th I received the following rej)ly : " Washington, D. C, September 29, 1884. " Lieut. John E. Lutz, U. S. R. M., " Care Cnstom- House, 8. F., Cal. : "Turn over schooner Adele to United States marshal. Consult United States district attor- ney, San Francisco. "W. Q. Gresham, " Secretary." 1 l.rC^-^^^-*^t^ ^Mf .%«^ Hi/^ii .:v*r3 y»^ FUR SEALS, SAINT GEORGE'S ISLAND. CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 35 The United States inarsbal refused to receive the vessel, statiug that lie could not do so before a libel had been filed against the vessel and a \Nrit issued by the court authorizing him to take possession. I (hen placed the case in the hands of the Unitt-d States district attorney for prosecution. Uwing to a press of other business, however, the libel has not been filed as yet; therefore I retain charge of the vessel. Upon information given by me the United States commis- sioner to day issued a warrant for the arrest of the six white men formerly belonging to the Adde, and the United States marshal took them into custody. The district attorney authorized the release of the nine Japanese whom you brought from St. Paul, but will retain as witnesses those now on board of the schooner. It is to be hoped that this case will bo vigorously prosecuted. The case is a remarkably clear one, and the most impartial observer can detect no extenuating circumstances. An opportunity is now given to make such an example as would tend to check future depredations of this nature, while, on the other hand, if these parties were allowed to go free, the act would be equivalent to declaring null and void that law which now protects the Government's valuable interests in the seal fisheries. I remain, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, John E. Lutz, Third Lieutenant, U. S. Beve7iue Marine. Capt. M. A. Healy, Commanding Revenue Steamer Corwin. DESCRIPTIONS OF BOGOSLOV ISLAND AND THE NEW VOLCANO IN BERING SEA, (ILLUSTRATED WITH SIX PHOTOGRAPHS). BY LIEUT. J. C. CANTWELL and SURGEON H. W. YEMANS. 37 BOGASLOFF: SA»L ROCK, BEARING NE. BV E., DISTANT ONE MILE. ifr,.'«&'\»y<&_ ^>>t,- *>P * ^cr^'~-!.^'' a>:* luaE.'^^i^TiipHi r r* Ti. SAIL ROCK AND NEW BOGASLOFF. DESOEIPTIONS OF BOGOSLOV ISLAND AND THE NEW VOLCANO IN BERING SEA. Visited by the U. S. 8. Corwln, Capt. M. A. Healy, U. S. Revenue Marine, commanding. REPORT OF SECOND LIEUT. JOHN -C. CANTWELL. Approaching the island from the northeast it has the appearance of being divided into two parts the northern portion being in a state of eruption and the southern portion a much serrated rock rising almost perpendicularly from the sea, while between the two and nearer the northern part of the new Bogoslov a tower-like rock rises with a slight inclination towards the north to a height of eighty six feet. At a distance it might be easily mistaken for a sail upon the horizon ; for this reason it is called Ship Eock or Sail Rock. A nearer approach discovers the fact that the two elevations are coTinected by a low, flat beach free from rocks and affording an excellent landing Dlace for small boats. The Corwin steamed around the northern end of the island and close enough to obtain an accurate view of the volcano. The top was hidden by clouds of steam and smoke which issued not only from the crater but also poured forth with great violence from rents or areas in the sides of the cone. On the northeast side these apertures are particularly well defined. I counted fifteen steam jets forming a group situated on a horizontal line about two-thirds the distance from the base to the apex of the cone. This group was the more noticeable on account of the force with which the steam escaped as well as the marked regulaiity of the spaces separating the vents. The sketch marked A gives a view of the northern end of the island and the position of steam jets mentioned above. When the center of the island bore northeast and distant three-quarters of a mile the Coru-in was anchored in thirteen fathoms water and a boat lowered in which we proceeded towards the shore sounding in from ten to twelve fathoms until within one hundred and fifty feet of the beach, when' the water gradually shoaled and we landed without difflculty, the wind being light from northeast and the sea smooth. The landing place is shown in the sketch marked B. The narrow isthmus connecting the old and new formations is composed of a mixture of fine black sand and small oolitic stone, the greatest quantity of sand being on a line dividing the island longitudinally into two parts. During our stay the water did not rise high enough to cover this beach, but pieces of drift- wood, algte, etc., found on the highest parts fully show that at the times of highest tides or during severe storms the entire isthmus is submerged. The sides of the new Bogoslov rise with a gentle slope to the crater, and the ascent at first appearance is easy, but the thin layer of ash formed into a crust by the action of rain and moisture is not strong enough to sustain a man's weight. At every step my feet crushed through the outer covering and 1 sunk at first ankle-deep and later on knee-deep into a soft, almost impalpable dust which arose in clouds and nearly sufibcated me. As the summit was reached the heat of the ashes became almost unbearable, and I was forced to continue the ascent by picking my way over rocks and bowlders whose surfaces being exposed to the air were cooler and attbrded a more secure foot- hold. 40 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. The temperature of the nir at the base was 44° aud at the highest jioint reached 60°. A ther- luometfT buried in the sand at the foot of the cone registered 4i°, lialf way to tlie top, 191°, and in a rrevice of the ramparts of the crater the mercury rapidly expanibnl and filled the tube, when the bulb burst, aud shortly afterwards the solder used in attaching the sus])ension ring to the instrument was fused. We estimated the temperature at this point to be oOQo Fahreuheit. The tcm])erature of the water around the island was the same as that of the sea, as observed on board the Convin at the time, was ii)°. On all sides of the cone there are perforations through which the steam escaped with more or less energy. I observed from some vents the steam was emitted at regular intervals, while from othej-s it issued with no i)erceptible iiiterinission. Around each vent there was formed a thick dej)0sit of sulphur, the vapor arising from which was sullbcatiug aud uiuiseatiug iu the extreme. An examination of the interior of the crater was not satisfactory on account of the clouds of smoke and steam arising and obscuring the view. On the northwest side the surface of the cone is broken into a thousand irregularities by nuisses of volcanic and metamorphic rock. On all other sides, however, the accumulatiou of ash and dust has almost entirely covered the rocks and the sides appear more even and less i)recii)itous. A curious fact to be noted in regard to this volcano is the entire abseuce, apparently, of lava and cinder. Nowhere could I find the slightest evidence of either of these characteristics of other volcanoes hitherto examined in the Aleutian Islands. Small quantities of rock-froth consisting of un fused particles in a semi-fused mass were seen, but the heat of discharge has evidently never been sufQcieut to produce tirm fusion. Specimens of dust collected from one of the vents was (■omi>ared with volcanic dust which fell in the village of Onualaska October 20, 1883, and found to l)e identical iu character. Descending to the beacli ou the east side I found it to be much the same formation as on the west side, with iierhaps the exception that the line of sand here approaches ueiirer the water-line. The pebbles seen on the island are universally of a dark-gray color, with small black spots and worn surface by attrition. I saw no shells and but little sea-weed. Kelp in considerable quantities, however, was observed close inshore. A walk of a third of ii mile brought me to old Bogoslov, where the beach abruptly termi- nates. The northern end of this rock rises almost perpendicularly to a distance of some 325 feet. Its face is deeply indented at the base, forming a cave-like recess which gives the rock the appear- ance of leiining toward the north. I'robably 7iowhere can there be found a better example of the disintegration of stoue into soil by the action of the atmosphere. The composition of the islet was originally of slate or shale. It is now breaking down on all sides and crumbling to dust. The central jiortion seemed to be comjiosed of a more enduring substance, but a close examination was impossible on account of the loose, crumbling nature of the rock forming the sides and the precipitous ascent. I fired a rifle-shot into a tlock of i)uffin, myriads of which were perched in the clefts and niches of the rock, and when they lose small pieces of stoue were detached and in turn dis])liK',ed hirger jjicces of stone until a perfect avalanche of stone came down the declivity, scoring great ruts in the hillside and tearing up great masses of stone, which were dashed to pieces on the shore below. Speiiinifiis of outer rock were found at the ba.se of the old Bogoslov, on the southern side, which, being struck with a hammer, crumbled to dust, in some cases deeply tinted with red, show- ing the presence of iron. Hard bowlders of some hard, smooth stone fringe the bases of both the old aud newBogoslofi, but a careful cxaiiiinatiou of the surrounding waters, both in small boats and on tioard the Conciti, failed to sliDW any outlying dangers. A sjwt of sand and pebble Idriiiaiioii extends from the south- ern end of old Bogoslov four-tenths of a mile in a southeasterly diieetion, and, like the isthmus rged at times of highest (ides or during severe storms. The depth of water around the island is shown upon the chart act;ompaiiyiiig the report. PufBii in great numbers were seen on old Bogoslov, and it is jnobable they make this isolated si)ot a breeding ])lace. 1 also saw iiiinibers of liarltMjuiii-diicks, gulls, and kittivvakes. A dead albatross was picked up on the beach, but it is lu-obable it was washed ashore, as its presence iu OLD BOGASUOFF, BEARING E. BY N. EAST FLANK OF CRATER. CRUISE OP THE STEAMER COR WIN. 41 these latitudes is not common. Several herds of sea-lions were found on the beaches and on the rocks of the island. They evinced no fear of our party until fired into, when they entered the water aud followed us from point to point, evidently viewing our intrusion with the greatest curiosity and astonishment. Angular measurements were made on shore by Lieut. D. W. Ilall to determine the heights of the peaks and the dimensions of the island, with the following results : I'eet. Height of east pinnacle old Bogoslov 334 Height of center pinnacle old Bogoslov 289 Height of west pinnacle old Bogoslov 324 Breadth of base old Bogoslov 933 Height of Sail Rock 875 Width of isthmus (narrowest) 326 Length of southern spit 1, 824 Extreme length of island 7, 904 General trend of island, SE. by E. aud NW. by W. By observations of Lieut. J. W. Howison the position of Sail Rock was reckoned to be latitude 53° 55' IS" north and longitude 108° 00' 21".7 west. In conclnsiou, I have to regret that this subject, so full of interest to science, could not have been more satisfactorily discussed, but the relation which old Bogoslov bears to the new forma- tion, the existence or non-existence of a crater in the latter, and the geological problems arising open up a field of inquiry too vast for me to enter. It is with this knowledge that this report has been confined to statements of facts and description of phenomena which fell under my observa- tion during a reconnaissance of the island, and if any of them should prove a help to any others in their investigations the most sanguine hopes of the writer will have been realized. Respectfully submitted. John C. Cant well. Third Lieutenant, U. S. Revenue Marine. REPORT OF SURGEON H. W. YEMANS, U. S. MARINE-HOSPITAL SERVICE. The recently formed ]>ortion of Bogoslov Island, Bering Sea, lies in latitude 53° 55' 18".5 north and longitude 168° 00' 21" west, and is of nearly circular shape, about one ha'f mile in diameter and distinctly volcanic in its origin. It has, in previous descriptions, received the name of new Bogoslotf in contradistinction to the more ancient portion of the island, the two having been thought by those who first saw them since the recent ernption to be separate islands. Tlie exact date of the advent of the new portion above the sea-level is not definitely known. Natives who were in that neighborhood claim to have seen smoke issuing from old Bogoslov during and since the summer of 1882, but as they were at a considerable distance and no evidences were to be discoveied about old Bogoslov of recent eruptions, it is fair to presume that what was seen arose from the new portion, which possibly had not at that time made its appearance above water. Although known to be in suppra(pi('Ous existence some ten months at the diite of this writing it had received no closer examination than that possible from the deck of a vessel distant half a mile until the visit of the Coricin, M. A. Healy, commanding. May 21, 1884. The credit of the first discovery belongs, I believe, to Captain Anderson, of the schooner Matthew Turner., who saw and sailed i>artly aronnd the island September 27, 1883. He describes it at that time actively erupting large masses of heated rock and great volumes of smoke, steam, and ashes from the apex and numerous fissures on the sides and base ; while at night bright reflections of interior fires were distinctly visible. A few days later Captain Hayne, of the .schooner Dora, also saw it, but did not land. He gives a description similar to that of Captain Anderson of its appearance. 42 CEUISE OF THE STEAMEE CORWIN. Fo earthquake shocks or other unusual phenomena were noticed on the neighboring islands at the time of the supposed eruption, though the two volcauoes on Akoutan Island ceased to smoke at about that time and have shown no signs of activity since. October 20, 1883, a shower of volcanic ashes fell at Ounalaska, sixty miles to the eastward, although it is i)ossible tlmt this pumice dust came from Mount St. Augustine, a volcano then active some seven hundred miles northeast of that place. May 21, 1884, at 4 a. m., the new formation was seen from the deck of the Corwin, as a'dull gray, irreguhirly shaped hill of about five hundred feet in height, from the sides and summit of which great, volumes of steam were arising, obscuring the upper third, and becoming detached, tloated otf on the northwest wind, then blowing, as cumulous clouds. At a height of about two-thirds of the distance from the base there issued, on the north .side, a series of large steam jets, which extended in a horizontal direction completely across the northwestern face of the hill, which at that part was considerably flatteued liiterally and quite steep, giving it a very striking resemblance to a smoking charcoal kiln. This is shown in a photograijh, somewhat blurred, unfortunately, owing to a sudden lurch of the ship. Fortunately, the day was clear, not hazy, although the sky was overcast, a somewhat thick layer of cumulostratus clouds obscuring the hill most of the time, rendering the process of picture-taking a difQcult undertaking, and our artist, Lieut. George 11. Doty, is to be congratu- lated on his (under the circumstances) brilliant success. Without the accompanying photographs an a^lequate description of this recent and most interesting addition to the Aleutian group of islands could hardly be given, while with them one can avoid creating false impressions, and can also remove erroneous conceptions. On nearer approach what at tirst sight appeared to be i)atches of vegetation became visible. A closer examination, however, revealed their true nature— collections of condensed sulphur which had accumulated around the orifices of what had once been active steam jets. These condensa- tions were still going on, each vent, in fact, having its encircling collection of condensed sulphur of various hues and tints. Steaming to within one-fourth of a mile of the south side of the isthmus, which was first dis- covered to form a connecting link between the oltl and new portions of Bogoslov, thus making them one, so to speak, the Corwin was brought to an anchor in thirteen fathoms of water, and a landing by boats was immediately made. But little surf was breaking on the beach, which at that point was composed of fine gravel and sand, and landing thereon presented no difficulties. Photograph No. 2 was taken from the shii), at a distance of thiee miles off Ship Eock, which then bore NE. 5 N., and shows distinctly the exact relation of the old and new portion of the island, including also the isthmus, near the middle of which stands the rocky pinuacle known as Ship Rock. The low, narrow intermediate portion of the island termed in this report the isthmus, lying between and connecting the higher extremes, is readily seen to be of much greater age than the newly formed portion, and had evidently been, previous to the recent eruption, a ])artially sub- merged spit, making out in a northwesterly direction from old Bogoslov; but the same force which pushed up the new addition elevated it also, especially that portion, the extremity immediately beneath the northeastern half of the new formation. The extent of this elevation, judging from the barnacles and water-marks on Ship and other rocks, being some twenty or more feet. It is the extremity of this spit which forms a considerable part of the foundation of the new portion. But few shells were found on the beach, and the only vegetation seen was a few patches of kelp and some ispecamens of Fucacine thrown upon the beach. Myriads of sea fowls occupied the clefts and crevices of the rocky heights of old Bogoslov and on tlie beach and rocks surrounding that end of the island. Large numbers of sea-lions, some of immense size, were seen, but took to the water on our approach. Both birds and animals seemed to avoid the newer portion, on which I saw no animal life whatever. The temperature of the water at the place of landing was the same as that more distant from the island, 42°; of the atmosphere, 44°; and a thermometer buried in tlie gravel of the beach above high-water mark registered 44°. Already had the odor of sulphurous oxide become distinctly per- ceptible, which near the summit and in the depressions rendered respiration decidedly ditticult. WHALING STATION NEAR POINT BARROW. FORMERLY SIGNAL STATION, U. S. A. ARCTIC OCEAN TRADING SCHOONER. CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIK 43 Following the beach to the southward, in order to get as far to windward as possible, until a point ojjposite the ridge shown in the left of i)hotograph numbered 4 was reached, the ascent was begun. For the first one huudred yards the route lay over a gentle slope composed of fragments of rock thickly covered with looso ashes, into which one sank knee-deep at every step; then, as the sides became steeper, over loosoly-|)iled fiagmeuts of rock, following the ridge until about two- thirds of the distance had been accomplished, when we were confronted by an insurmountable wall of rock (aqueo-igneouc conglomerate), which stopped further progress in that direction. At this point an attempt to photograph the interior of the great fissure was n)ade, but the immense vol- ume of aqueous vaj)or issuing from it and the numerous vents iu the vicinity so completely obscured the view as to render it a total failure. Photographs Nos. 3, 4k, and 5 give a sufficiently clear idea of the appearance of the new formation to make the f.)llowiiig brief description intelligible. The great fissure extends in a northeast and southwest direerion through the upper third of the hill, dividing it into two unequal j)ortions, the southeavStern i)arr being much the smaller and lower one. The smaller portion is about one-fifth of the mass and was 403 feet in height. Owing to its top being obscured the height of the larger summit could not be definitely ascertained, but it was probably about seventy-five feet higher than its neighbor, certainly not over five hundred feet in all, which height it had probably never exceeded by more than fifty feet. No satisfactory examination of the interior of the great fissure could be made, owing to the steam, fumes, and heat rendering entrance into it highly dangerous if not absolutely impossible. The immediate entrance only was visible, the clouds of vapor which arose from and almost completely filled it hiding the interior from view. Vents more or less active were abundant; the temperature of the interior of one of the smaller ones was 190° ; the thermometer, laid ou the suitace in a sheltered situation, registered 50°, while when held at the height of the head from tLesuiface the mercury fell to 49°. Water thrown upon the rocks at the entrance of the great fissure was immediately vaporized with a hissing noise. It was observed there and elsewhere that the dis- charge from the vents was perfectly regular, unaccompanied by much, if any, noise, and the ear placed upon the surface and over the larger of the extinct vents could detect nothing more than a faint "i)nrring" or hissing sound. Finding it impossible to make the wished-for examination of the great fissure or to reach the summit, we descended and made a half circuit of the base, where a re-ascent was attempted. Steep and inaccessible walls soon stopped our progress, however, and only about the same elevation as on the opposite side was reached, and similar success attended our eftbrts to penetrate or even obtain a view of the interior. The heat of this side was much greater than that of the other, both of the surface and the discharges, it being hot enough in one of the crevices through which steam was escaping to quickly melt the solder fastenings of the thermometer and expanding the mercury sufficiently to burst the bulb, although the instrument was made to register 200° F. It is much to be regretted that a thorough examination of the interior of the great fissure was rendered impossible, as much desirable information could doubtless have been obtained, for at its bottom would, in my opinion, be found the perpendicular stratum forced up at the time of eruption, elevating the softer strata into the two tlanking ridges which form the apices of the larger and smaller elevations surmounting the hill. A few fraguients of granitoid rock |)icked from among the debris indicate the probable character of this intermediate stratum, lu) oiitcro|)- pings of which were, however, visible. The flanking portions, indeed, almost the entire visible part of th« new formation, had evidently once formed the bottom perpendicular stratum, of wliich latter Ship Rock is possibly an extension or more probably a foreruiinerT Photographs Nos. (5 and 7 show, respectively, the northwest end and southeast side of old Bogoslov. Upon the return of the Corwin from the Arctic next fall it is hoped an opportunity to revisit this interesting spot, the scene of one of nature's curious freaks, will be afl'orded, so that a more thorough examination may be made and changes noted. Respect fully submitted. H. W. Yemans. Assistant Surgeon, U. iS. Marine ilospilul Service. OLD BOGASLOFF, FROM SAIL ROCK. NEW BOGASLOFF, BEARING SE. ON HORNBLENDE ANDESITES FROM THE NEW VOLCANO ON BOGOSLOV ISLAND IN BERING SEA. BT GEORGE P. MEEBILL. The rocks described below were received from Capt. M. A. Healy, by whom they were collected and douated to the National Museum. Ou account of the interest just now attached to the locality they seem worthy of a special description. It is well to remark in the beginning that none of the samples received show freshly fractured surfaces, but are in the form of irregular blocks with their corners broken and rounded. They were accompanied and covered with a fine sand and dust of the same mineral nature as the rocks themselves, but stained by sulphur and iron oxides. Ev( n in the absence of definite information on the subject, it seems safe to infer that they are simply ejected volcanic blocks, aud not from recent lava flows, none of which have as yet been reported. Two varieties of the rock were received, one consisting of a light-gray, slightly purplish, fine grained and porous grouudmass, in which small glassy feldspars and dark brown and green horn- blende-like crystals are readily distinguishable by the naked eye. The texture is quite uniform, the brown hornblende being the more variable constituents, in one case a single crystal nearly half an inch in diameter being observed. The rock is rough to the touch and somewhat friable. Under the microscope it is found to consist of a light gray grouudmass, in which are embedded deep reddish brown, strongly dichroic hornblendes, light green augites, and numerous crystals of a plagioclase feldspar, together with scattering grains of iron ore. The hornblendes are usually in irregular crystals, though an occasional quite perfect basal section was observed which showed a preponderance of the prismatic faces. The crystals are often elongated in the direction of their vertical axes, and a portion of them show the dark borders so commonly seen in the hornblende of andesites. The-augite is light green in color, and at first glance might readily be mistaken for a green variety of horubleude. Its cleavage and optical properties are, however, unmistakably those of augite. In form the plagioclases are short and thick, showing but few twinning striations, sometimes none at all. A portion of them are clear and pellucid, while others are clouded through the pres- ence of numerous cavities and impurities. In many cases the outer portion of a crystal is clear, while the interior is clouded, or again both outer and interior portions may be clear while there exists an intermediate zone full of cavities. In addition to these the plagioclases contain numer- ous inclosures of a yellowish glass, which often bears a bubble, and hornblende and augite parti- cles. A number of short aud thick, clear, glassy feldspars are present, which show no sign of twinning, and which appear from their optical properties to be sanidin. Both sanidin (?) aud lilagioclaso show at times a very evident zonary structure. Apatite occurs but sparingly and in minute colorless crystals, showing but slight trace of the duskv interiors so often seen in the apatites of this class of rocks. The magnetite is, as a rule, in but poorly defined crystals. ■ The base proper of the rock consists of an aggregate of minute colorless microlites* and grains of opacite; there is also present a very weakly doubly refracting, colorless, interstitial substance, which, under a power of 300 diameters is seen to be composed of rounded and irregular imbricated *Iii ii preliminary nolo on these rocks, published in Science of December 12, 1884, the base was stated by mistalie to be micro/eUitio. It should have read microlitio. 45 46 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. scales like tridymite. So far as observed, however, noue of these scales present a regular hexag- onal outliue, but resemble more closely those figured by Roseubusch* thau any I have seen figured elsewhere. The dark variety of the rock is much more compact in texture, and.bears a larger proportion of inicroKcopic hornblende, which occurs in crystals of all sizes up to one-fourth of an inch in diam- eter. Under the microscope it is found to contain also a much greater proportion of minute feld- si)ars scattered through the groundmass. As in the lighter variety, these are short and thick, being usually not more than twice as long as broad. The groundmass is much more dense, but under a high magnifying power is seen to consist mainly of the same colorless uiicrolites and iron ore. Little, if any, tridymite is present, and no true glass was observed. In other respects the varieties seem nearly identical. Samples of the rock submitted to Dr. T. M. Chatard, of the Geological Survey, for chemical analysis, yielded results given below : [I is the ligUt-colorod tridymite-bearing variety ; II, the dark variety.] Iguition SiOi . . . . TiOv.... AliOs .. FeO .... MuO... CaO .... MgO... TjOs.... Na-iO... KvO ... I. ir. .99 .34 56.07 51. 54- 1.24 .32 19.06 20.31 5.39 4.64 .92 3.56 .23 .32 7.70 9.55 2.12 3.16 .16 .r,^ 4.52 4.29 1.24 2.47 99.64 101.07 The low percentage of silica in the rocks is especially interesting, and would seem to point to the presence of very basic iilagioclases. To satisfactorily determine this point an attempt was made to separate the feldspars from both rocks by means of the iodide of mercury and potassium solution. At a specific gravity of 2.7 a considerable quantity of the powder from the light variety came down, which, on examination with the microscope, proved to be nearly all feldspar, with small portions of the groundmass, and included iron ores and hornblimde particles. After stand- ing over night a further precipitation was observed to have taken place, which, on examination, proved to be very pure feldspar. A sample of this last submitted to Trofessor Clarke for further examination yielded 55.29 per cent, of silica, which is about the right proportion for labradorite. Owing, however, to the somewhat crude method of separation, I do not feel at all certain that ihis is the only feldspar present, and it is very probable that witli better facilities other results might bo obtained. It is possible that the first portion to come down may have been auorthite, as suggested by Mr. Diller in Science of January 23, 1885. With the dark variety of the rock no satisfactory results could be obtained, it being found impossible to separate the vt-ry impure feldspar from the groundmass with any facilities at my command. Especial thanks are due Professor Clarke and Dr. Chatard for the excellent chemical work done by them in this connection. National Museum, February 23, 1885. ' Mikrosoopisclie Physiographie der Miueralien, etc., p. 227. WHALER WORKING THROUGH A LEAD. NATIVE HOUSE AT POINT HOPE, ALASKA. A NARRATIVE ACCOUNT EXPLORATION OF THE KOWAK RIVER, ALASKA, UNDER THE DIRKCTION OF CAPT. MICHAEL A. HEALY, Commanding U. S. Revenue Steamer Corwin, BY THIRD LIEUT. J. C. CANTWELL, U. S. Revenue Marine. 1 H S 4 . (ILLUSTRATKD WITH FOUR PI..\TES AND FOUR SKETCHES.) j^.^xv,0^^ . V';' '^.ift- -^^!Sja! SUMMER TRADING RENDEZVOUS, HOTHAM INLET. SCAFFOLDING FOR DRYING FISH, HOTHAM INLET. ORDERS TO LIEUT. J. C. CANTTVELL. U. S. Revenue-Maeine Steamer Corwin, Koizehve Sound, July 8, 1884. Sir: The Department desiring to ascertain the extent of the Kowak River, together with the ohanicter of the country through which it runs, the number and extent of its tributaries, the number, condition, habits, and customs of the inliabitants, and, iu general, everything of interest to science and commerce relating thereto, you have been selected to take command of an adequate parly from this vessel, and to proceed to the mouth of the said river ami begin the compilation of the data required, extending your explorations as far toward the source of the river as is possible with boats, aud until the 20th day of August, 1884, when you will rejoin the Corwm at Hotham Inlet. In pursuit of the object mentioned you will make as accurate a survey of the river as is possible with the instruments furnished and the time allowed you. You will keep exhaustive notes of its width and depth, and force of tiie current, as well as an accurate account of the position of obstructions to navigation, such as rocks, shoals, sand-bars, or rapids, occurring in the course of your survey. All information touching the fauna and flora and the general resources of the country is of the utmost value, and you will be particular to see that such a recor.l is kept as will furnish the substance of an accurate report on these subjects. Mr. Miller, who is to accompany you, is a practical miner, and you are directed to give him every opi)ortunity for prospecting the country, aud to embody in your report the result of his investigations. In this connec'tion it may be well to call your attention to the supposed existence of jade in this region; if this supposition should prove true the discovery would be one of great value. Frequent reports of your progress will be sent by native messengers to the Coricin at Hotham Inlet. Should the Kowak Uiver prove not of sufhcient length to warrant a survey, you wdl turn your attention to the survey and exploration of Selawick Lake, or any navigable stream which you "may discover in tlie neighborhood. As many specimens as iwssiblo will be collected. They wdl belong to the Governmeut, but where duplicates are obtained there will be no objection to the members of your party procuring them, providing that in case of a preference by selection the Government shall have the precedence. It will perhaps be found necessary in your communication with the natives to engage in trade in order to secure their help in case of need, and consequently you are iiermitted to do so ibr that purpose; but you will understand that this permission is restricted, and on no account are you to make a display of goods in a manner calculated to excite their cupidity or awaken their distrust. In dealing with the natives you will be careful to enforce the strictest integrity on the part of each member of your party, and should a collisiou take place between your people and the natives you will try and make good your retreat without bloodshed. If, however, this be iuipossible, act with firmness, decision, and moderation. Should any of your party become seriously ill you will abandon the expedition and return t a most disagreeable duty. JmZ^ 11, 1SS4. — At 5 o'clock ail hands were called and a hasty breakfast prei)ared. At 7.30 we were under way once more and stood up the river. Both banks continued low and are covered with a dense undergrowth. We passed many deserted huts, but saw no natives until about 10 a. m., when we observetl a collection of hats on the right bank, and upon landing discovered a native and his family, who were greatly surprised at our appearance. The children were perfectly naked and retired i)reci))itately to their huts. Here we were iuformed that many natives had starved during the winter. After leaving this jjlace the banks gradually increased in height, and the current, which had been reckoned at two knots per hour in the morning, increased to three knots by night. The course of the river was exceedingly tortuous, and we sometimes found our- selves, after running two hours, back within a quarter of a mile of our starting i)oint. At 4 o'clock a group of huts was observed on a high Itlack bluff on the right side, and we ran into a little creek near by and landed to communicate with the natives. A letter was hauiled to me which had been left by Lieut. George M. Stoney July 27, 1883. He named the settlement Gilderville. Soundings were regular throughout the day and showed an increase of from three and a half to five fathoms, and the width of the stream varied from one-half to three-quarteis of a mile. Many offshoots of the main stream were observed and all were on the left side. At 7 p. m. we came to and pitched our tent, having made 3Ii miles. Average temperature, 8.5°. July 12, 1881. — At 7.30 a. m. wc got under way, after leaving two bags of coal here to take us to the mouth of the river on our return. Up to this spot no timber hail been seen, but during the day we ]>assed tnany clusters of i>iue trees, and towards thc^ night the banks were well covered with a growth of pine, birch, and willow. At 8 30 we stojiped to c.it wood in a bend of the river where it bas a large offshoot running to the wcvstvvard Xatorak informed me that this was the last branch of the river delta, and flowed into notliam Inlet near its lower portion. At 9 o'clock CUUISE OF Tllli aiEAMEU (JORVVIN, 55 we started ii|)streaiii again, hut tlie steaiu rapiilly Ml ami we were corn])elle(l to stop and try anotlifi' kind of wood. At noon the sun came out and 1 got an observation for latitude and fixed the position at (Jushed on up the river. Our progress, however, was very slow, and we were compelled to stop many times on account of the lack of steam sufficient to stem the current. At 7.30 we arrived at an Indian fishing village, having made but six miles up stream. The river did not alter much in appearance or width, but the number of shoal places increased and the channel was found to be more crooked in consequence. We found the natives busily engaged in re]>airing their nets preparatory for the rnn of salmon. They were very kind, but did not have much to offer us in the way of game or fish. July 17, 1884. — When we awoke this morning the rain was pouring down in a steady stream, and did notecase until 9 o'clock, when we got under way and stood uj) the river. A number of natives had preceded us to a i)lace where suitabU^ wood could be obtained, and for a small quantity of tobacco agreed to have sufllcient quantity of wood cut to last us through the day. Here I saw a specimen of green stone which the Indians informed me had been obtained from the mountains CEUISE OF THE STEAMER COEWIK 57 about five days further 4ip stream. Tliey say that whoever goes to that mountain and brings away any stone will be alllicted with some dreadful maUidy ever afterwards, and that the stone belongs to tlie natives and not to the white men. I argued that the stone did not belong to them individually, hut had come to them from their great-grandfathers, who were also our greatgrandfathers. This direct claim to relationship did not meet with a very cordial reception, but they were not inclined to discuss the matter any further. All day the Indians hovered about us in their frail Itirchbark canoes, and it was wonderful to see with what ease and address they ventured into l)laccs wheie 1 know the cumbersome launch would have been unmanageable. At 4 p. m. we arrived at a second Indian village and found the natives, as usual, impassive and undemonstrative, but not unkind, for when our fires were lighted a little girl came up and laid a bunch of fresh lish near at hand and then stole away as if fearful of disturbing us. We camped eaily to oblige the " shaman" of the village, who desired to i)erform the ceremonies of his oiiice for our especial benefit. After the sun had gone down behind the hills he retired to his tent, and shortly after- wards a tremendous beating of drums, singing, and howling were heard from the interior. Tlie front of the tent was thrown back and the "shaman" was discovered sitting between his two wives, alternately beating a tambourine-like drum and uttering short sentences as if in conversation with some unseen party. A crowd soon gathered, and the utmost attention was given to the imposter, who, I must say, acted the role of medium to perfection. We left him in his glory at about 9 p. m., but the sound of his drum was heard until long after midnight. To-day we made 14J miles. The river varied from two to six hundred yards in width. The banks were moderately high, and back of them was the usual rolling tundra land running to the mountains about twenty miles distant. Soundings were from two to five fathoms and the current varied from two to six knots per hour. Jmz/iS, 1884.— We were detained as usual this morning by a heavy rain, which began at about 4 a. m. and continued until 9 a. m., when the wind came out from the northeast and the weather gradually cleared sufiSciently to allow us to break camp. Before leaving I was called upon to treat a native for colic, and relieved him by administering a dose of Pain Killer and applying a mustard plaster. To-day we had another experience in the rapids. Shortly after leaving the \illage we came to a part of the river where it is about half a mile wide and the depth of the water deceases from six fathoms to as many feet. The channel contains more water, but the shoals extend in all directions, and in some places are bare. The velocity of the current was about seven knots, and it was only by bottling up steam and getting out warps ahead that we managed lo get through and in view of a beautiful part of the river. Ahead and on our left high, rugged mount- ains, whose summits were still covered by snow, were reflected with mirror-like truth in the now placid stream. Between us and the mountains there stretched a low, undulating country, crossed by many streams which tumbled down the gulches and formed cascades and small lakes, giving life and spirit to the picture. In this way we struggled on, sometimes finding the current almost too strong for us to stem, and then hardly perceptible. Wood along the banks became scarce, and we were much delayed in getting a supply. At 7 o'clock a high serrated mountain was discovered ahead, and the Indian guide told us it was the Ashiganok or green-stone mountain. The mosquitoes were worse than ever, and some of our party were almost unrecognizable fro)u the effects of these pests. It is no uncommon thing to see, a man who has been cutting wood a little way from the banks suddenly drop his ax and rush frantically for the river, his face and hands covered with blood. The hoods we made are but little protection, as the mosquitoes sting through the cloth with appareut ease. At 7.:!() p. m. we camped on a high wooded bluff on the right shie of the stream, having made 14J miles during the eaks of the mountains. At 7.30 we camped at the foot of a sandhill on the right side of the river, ha\iug made 26.4 miles during the day. Average temperature, 90°. Jub/ 21, 188i.— Begins with moderate southeast wind and partly cloudy with i)assing showers, and continued so throughout the day. (Jailed all hands at 4 a. m. and got under way at 8. The general character of the shores remained the same as yesterday, but the current was found to be stronger than ever, and about noon we ran into a i)art of tlu^ river where the channel is divided into two parts by a sand shoal extending for about a tpnirter of a mile i)aiallel to the river's course and reaching nearly from shore to shore. Here the current M'as found to be so strong that it was almost impossible to get ahead at all. Frequent stoi)s had to be made to allow the steam to run up, and the time thus lost was not regained, as we found witli the utmost i)ressure that we could safely carry that wo could not go half as fast as the skin boat, which was being towed and i)addled by the Indians. In view of these circumstances I decided to abandon the launch for the present and CRUISE OP THE STEAMER CORWIN. 59 go ahead in the skin boat. The haak connection and furnace doors of the launch needed some ro|)uiring:, and it would take two or three days to give her a thorough overliauliug, so that if I found tLo condition of the river warranted me in bringing her up further she would be in better (iDndilioa tostein the current. We were now quite close to the mountain of the green stone, and 1 (li'ciilcd to leave Mr. McLeuegan and the miner, Mr. Miller, here for three days with instructions to explore the mountains, while I took the launch back to a place where she could bo left in safety, and rejoin them at the expiration of that time. Accordingly they were furnished with provisions and such articles of camp outfit as could not be dispensed with, and an arrangement for our meeting having been agreed upon they set out for the mountains and we turned the launch head down stream. We fairly flew now, and I had to order the engine stopped in some places, as I feared if she struck anything she would be wrecked. In an hour's time we had gone eleven miles and reached our place of encamjjment of the previous night. Observing a number of canoes coming uj) tlie river we ran down to them and communicated with the natives. They were goiug to establish a fishing village near at hand, and I decided to leave the launch near by, as they would render any assistauce to Wilbur and Lewis during our absence. Landing with the Indians we held a joint consultation as to my project. I was anxious to obtain their co operation, and wanted to hire a half dozen of the natives to assist us with their boats in transporting our stores, camp gear, etc. At Crst they declined to go, saying it was too far to the head of the river to get there before the fishing season would be past, and that the men who had been sent after the green stone would give us bad luck, and a thousand other trivial reasons, which had to be discussed over and over again. However, after sitting around our camp fire and smoking our tobacco for half the night, three Indians decided to go with us, with the proviso that they were to be furnished with food from our stores, besides the ammunition and tobacco I had agreed to give them. When I asked how many days it would take to reach the head of the river the most contradictory statements were elicited, and it was evident that their answers were prompted by some other reasons than for giving us exact information on the subject. They all agreed, however, in the statement that the current grows much stronger as the head of the river is approached. The Indians do not travel all the way up the river in boats, as the channel is filled by rocks and the banks are so steep that it is im[>ossible to tow. The river, they say, is divided into two parts, on(i of which takes its source in a lake twenty-five or thirty miles in diameter and almost surrounded by very high and rugged mountains, while the other rises farther to the eastward, very near the source of the Kuryukuk, a large river which flows into the Yukon at Nulata. July 22, 1884. — The day was warm and iileasant and was spent in getting ready for our trip in the canoes. We broke out all our stores and bedding and found much dampness everywhere. I was not surprised at this, as it had been rainy and dami) ever since we started until today. All day the Indiaus kept near our tent and smoked continually. They did not leave for their meals but had their wives fetch their food to them. I selected a suitable place for the launch to lay while we were gone and started Wilbur to making a temporary boom for the purpose of protecting the launch from floating drift-wood. Lewis, the fireman, was set at work on the boiler. With the clay which had been picked up at the coal bluff the front and back connection were relined and a new lining for the furnace door was cut out. The front connection also required some protection from the rain, and orders were given to attend to it. Towards noon it became evident that the natives were holding a consultation of unusual interest and soon afterwards Audre informed me that they were saying they would not go with me as the summer was too far gone and they must fish. I knew this was a trivial excuse, as the women do all the fishing, but was satisfied that I had to use some caution in expressing my doubts as to their fidelity, and when they came to talk it over with us I gave them to understand that the ammunition which I i)ro posed to give them would more than offset any disadvantages they might ex[)erience in going with me. They then demanded half their pay in advance, which was granted, but this did not satisfy them, for they now came back and said I must make deer very plentiful and close to their homes this winter. This remarkable request was occasioned by tlie fact that they thqught I was a "shaman" from .seeing me at work with the sextant and artificial horizon. I had no alternative but to promise plenty of deer, and again they were satisfied, and again they came back with more requests until I had nearly lost my patience. However, we kept steadily at work getting ready, 60 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. aud at 11 p. in. I turned in satisfied tbat tbey were at last in a fair way to make an early start with us in the moniiug. Temperature, 95°. July 23, 1884. — The day began with a light rain, which toward noon increased to a perfect torrent, and so continued until near 4 p. ni., wlieu it ceased and the clouds rose from the forest- covered hills and hung like a veil around the deeply-scarred sutnuiits of the adjacent mountains. At 4 J), ni. 1 called all hands, and with the three Indians from the village aud one boat to lielp us we started for our place of meeting with Mr. McLeuegan. We paddled lustily along, and where the steej), broken bank allowed a foothold, I put all hands on the bank with a long tow-line, and away we bowled up the river a great deal faster than the launch could possibly go. At 1 ]>. m. we arrived at the place where we were to meet Mr. McLenegan and Mr. Miller, and, seeing no signs of them, pitched our tent and set fire to a dead tree to apprise them of onr return. The birch bark canoe which had been brought along was badly broken to day by being dragged over a fallen tree, and it is probable we will have to dispense with it. The river rose steadily all through the night, and this morning it is a foot higher than the day before. The Indians say it is very high now, but that later, when dry weather comes on, it will rajjidly fall, and the whole bed of the river, with the exception of the channel, will become dry. We made thirteen miles to-day. Temperature, 8.5°. July 24, 1884 — The whole day was rainy with frequent squalls. At 7 a. m. Mr. McLenegan and Mr. Miller returned from the mountains, and they were in a terribly exhausted condition. They had been drenched by the rain and tormented by the mosquitoes ever since leaving the river, aud their condition was now real'.y pitiable. Their boots had been worn out by hard walk- ing, and tht^y were comjielled to cut pieces from their blankets to bind around their feet. Their clothes were torn, and their faces, haggard and blood-stained, fully attested the hardship they had undergone iu the brief period since leaving the launch. They brought back specimens of green stone which Mr. McLenegan thinks is jade or nephrite. It was out of the question to think of their going on without rest, and as the biiehbark canoe could not be rei)aired sufficiently to stand rough usage I determined to i)usli on in the skin boat with Andre, Natorok, and the two Indians, while Mr. McLenegan, Mr. Miller, and the remaining Indian would return to the launch. Accordingly we put the most necessary articles in the skin boat, and leaving the rest in the care of Mr. McLenegan I started ahead. At noon we reached a part of the river where it makes a sudden bend to the southeast, and the jade mountain could easily bo distiuguished from the surrounding peaks on account of its peculiar greenish color. We made good time throughout the day, passing through a low, rolling country, backed by mountains on both sides. The current remained strong and the depth of water showed no diminution. At 4.30 ]). ni. we passed a remarkable (^lay bluff, some 150 feet high aud three-quarters of a mile long, on the right side of the river. The constant wear of the ever-rushing stream had undermined the base, and huge masses of the bluff would become detached and fall into the water with a terrific roar, and the oppressive silence of the wilderness would be broken by a thousand echoes from the neighboring cliffs. Mammoth tusks abound in this bluff. Some were seen which were eight inclies in diame- ter, but were out of reach under the water. The course of the stream in this locality is very crooked, and although we made nearly thirty miles to-day our position in relation to prominent mountains in the vicinity had not materially changed. When the sun had set and tlu! shades of night were comiug on we reached a deserted village, and as 1 had sent the tent back witli Mr. McLenegan we turned in for the night in a vacant hut, where we were at least safe from the rain. Despite the bad weather we made 2S.G miles to-day. Average tem])erature, 85°. July 25, 1884.— The day was warm and jileasant throughout, and we started to pack our boat at 5 a. m., when Andre discovered several places worn throngh on the bottom which had to be sewed up before we went any farther. This work delayed us somewhat, and it was not uutil 9 a. m. that we got off. We made excellent time up the river, but the course of the stream is very crooked, and there are a great many islands lying in the bends. The country on both sides was, as usual, spongy tundra backed by rolling country to the mountains, sixteen to twenty miles distant. The banks of the river are moderately high, and composed of a dark-colored soil of a clayey nature, above which lies a thick layer of black earth in which the fiber of decayed vegetable matter can be seen in great quantities. The banks seem to ho undergoing a continual change of form, as CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 61 we frequently saw portions twenty-five to fifty feet square become detached and fall into the water. Saud-bars and shoals abound in many places, and the current remained about as usual. Every night I set the Indians at work making a map of that part of the river ahead of us, and it is remarkable how exact they are in details. From them I learned that during the winter all the Indians who come down to fish in the summer live near the headwaters of the river, and that after snow has fallen they make sledge journeys to the headwaters of the Koyukuk, where they trade with the Yukon Indians, and then go still farther to the northeast until they reach a range of very high mountains, where the moose and mountain sheep are found in great numbers. From two distinct sources I learned that the sea could be seen from the mountains on a clear day, but in only one direction, the view being shut out in all others by an intervening chain of mountains. On the other side of the mountains where they hunt there is a river by which the sea can be reached in five days. This is doubtless theColville River. We chased a flock of geese into a small lake which has an outlet into- the Kowak this afternoon and killed half a dozen, and as we had had no frfesh meat of any kind for some time they proved a welcome addition to our larder. At 9.30 I selected a suitable place to camp and we came to, having made 27.4 miles. Temperature, 90°. July 2(5, 18S4. — At 5.30 a. m. we started on our way, the weather being warm and pleasant, The beach on which we camped is composed of fine sand in which is a great quantity of mica, and our clothing glistened in the sun as if we had been sprinkled with diamond dust. Andre put two patches on the boat last night, but she has been so long in the water that she is thoroughly saturated, and the sand which necessarily gets into her by the men alternately paddling and towing her is rotting the skin. The Indians informed me that to-morrow, if we work hard, we shall reach an Indian village where I hope to get a boat and send Andre back with word to Mr. McLenegan to bring forward the launch. The country bordering the river in this locality is a level plain stretching away to the mountains, which extend to the left in a northeasterly direction as far as the eye cau see, and on our right there were two ranges visible, the farther one being composed of mightier peaks than that nearer at hand, while overall the scene there hung a light filmy mist, the exhalations from the spongy tundra, softening the ruggedness of the mountains and intensifying the cool grays and blues of the far distance. We came to-day to a place where the river is divided into two parts, the left branch winding its sinuous way round the mountains, while the right, confined by steep, crumbling banks, still follows the geuural trend of the river to the northeast. We chose the right branch to ascend because of its more directness, and toward evening arrived at the junction of the Kowak with a small river trending to the southward, on which stream I was informed there is a village, where I resolved to go in search of boats next morning. The rain came up just as we had pitched our camp, and we crawled under the boat, all pretty well tired out after the hard day's work. Today we advanced 25.4 miles. Average temperature, 95°. Jxily 27, 1884.— At 7.30 a. m. we crawled from underneath our boat aud soou after started up the Umakalookta River, which we found exceedingly crooked. I observed a few trees on the banks nearly two feet in diameter, but the shores were mostly covered with a dense and almost impene- trable thicket of Arctic willow and rank grass. In some places the river was fifty to seventy-five yards wide, but as we ascended the shores contracted, and when we stopped at 1 p. m. the stream had diminished in width untd it was then but a roaring mountain torrent of some twenty-five feet in width. We found from three to four fathoms of water for fifteen or twenty miles, and then the depth gradually decreased to ten or twelve feet. There was very little current and we made about five miles per hour up stream. At 1 p. m. we arrived at the village and were welcomed with many manifestations of delight. Some of the Indians had never seen white men, and they crowded around me, examining my clothing, etc., with the greatest curiosity. My watch was a source of never-failing interest to all, and whenever I took it out they eagerly i)ressed around me to see it opened, when they would express their astonishment by uttering the single word " Kay" in a short surprised tone of voice. This ejaculation seems to answer the purpose of expressing either joy or grief, admiration or contempt, acquiescence or disapproval. A traveler soon learns to distinguish the meaning to be conveyed by the diflt'erence in inflections. Our two river Indians having explained the object of our tri|), we had a consultation in which the entire village joined. I was disappointed to learn that no boats suitable for our purpose could be olitained, as the frail g2 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIX. birch-bark canoes they use ia fishing are never taken as far as the head of the river. I was informed that it wonkl take ns at least twelve days to reach the head of boat navigation, and that then we wonld have to leave onr boats and travel by foot along the bank of the river one day more, as there are two waterfalls to be passed, and the river-bed is filled with rocks, and it would be folly to attempt to pass tliroiigli the rapids with a boat. I also learned that from this village a portage could be made to the Kowak, and we would strike the river some twenty-five or thirty miles u]) stream from the mouth of the Umakalookta. The Indians agreed to help us make the portage if wo remaiued with them till morning. By this means we could retrieve the day lost in coming here, and I detcruiined to take this means of returning to the river. We had some delicious salmon for supper to night, freshly caught from the ice-cold little stream which flashes down between banks covered with snow to the Kowak, with whose water it mingles and takes up its march to the sea. July 28, 1884.— At 8 a m. we started on our way to the river by way of the portage, and after eioht iiours of hard work we reached the Kowak at a point about thirty-five miles from the mouth of the Umakalookta. Our first portage was about a mile over tundra land bordering the Uma- kalookta up the side of a hill still covered with snow, and ilown into a small lake, in which we launched our boat; and, in company with about twenty Indians who came along with their birch- bark canoes, we crossed this lake and gained our second portage. Here it was necessary to take the boat through a dense thicket of willows, and the walking was very bad. Over stumps and through mud and water sometimes knee deep we floundered along for a distance of a (luarter of a mile and again we struck the shores of a lake. This was much larger than the first lake traversed, and it took us about four hours to cross it. The high trees of the river could now be seen, but between us lay a morass into which we plunged, and for the space of an'hour struggled to get through. At last we succeeded and reached the Kowak, whose broad, unobstructed surface seemed to welcome us back. Launching our boat we paddled away up stream until we reached a small fishing settlement, and here I called a halt, as the skin boat was leaking badly and had to be repaired immediately. Andre soon had two Indian women at work on the boat, and while he was preparing our supper I climbed up on the side of the mountain and looked around me. The river winds its sinuous way around the foot of the mountains and otf into the le\el country beyond, its surface sometimes broken into a thousand ripples by the force of the current, and a"-ain lying smooth and glassy under the lee of some projecting point. Far beyond a range of nrouutains rear their whitened summits to the skies, and the Indians informed uie that from the tops of the mountains the high peaks around the head of the river can be seen on a clear ed to go with us eight days, and they now wanted to return. It would take seven days to -^et^a fresh supply of provisions from the launch, and in the mean time our boat was rotting and becoming unsafe from the wear of the sand unavoidably taken in her and by being dragged over .shoal places. In the event of an accident to her my base of supplies was so far removed that it would be impossible for me to reach it without placing my party in a very bad position. Within the last two or three or five days I had observed a considerable fall of the water and a diminution of the force of the current, and as the Indians informed me that the wjiter would now get lower with every day's fine weather, I decided to abandon the present project and to return to the launch, there to niake a fresh start, and by working day and night to get both boats as high as the rapids, and then renew tlie attempt to reach the water-fall with the skin boat. Having reai^hed this con- elusion we made ready for an early start the next day for the launch. To- night we were presented by the Indians with some excellent salmon, and returned the compliment by a present of beads and tobacco. Temperature, 95°. July 29 1884.— The weather all day was warm and pleasant, but it was so cloudy at noon that I coulil not get an observation. The Indians who aceomi)anied us had taken up their residence on this beach for all summer apparently, as they had construetea a iiiiniber of houses by weaving together the supi)le willow boughs in basket fashion and covering tluin with skins and old i>ieces CRUISE OF THE STEAMER OORWIN. 63 of cotton cloth. At 7 a. in. we bade good-bye to them (after distributing some tobacco) and started on our way. The scene on the beach was one of life and spirit. The men were all grouped together near the center hut aud were waving their arras and shouting vociferously to our two ludians, who did not lose an opportunity of shouting quite as lustily in reply. The women, in frail canoes, were running out their nets or hauling them up on the gravel beach alive with the gleaming white fish, salmon and trout; and as we whirled past them one of their number seized a struggling king salmon by the tail and by a dextrous raovemeut twirled it high in the air and it fell struggling and flopping into our boat. This feat was greeted with a tremendous " kay " of approval, aud the sound of their shouts could be heard long after a bend in the river hid them from our view. All day we sped down the river, stopping only once to boil a pot of tea and then on again at break-neck speed. Where we had avoided the current in coming up we now sought its aid. In the swirls and eddies of deep pools the light skin boat was some- times unmanageable, but we escaped any serious injury. About 2 p. m. we were running through a narrow and deep slough of the river when suddenly the boat was caught in an eddy and hurled with great violence against a steep bank. All of us were unseated by the shock and the midship thwart was displaced. An examination disclosed no serious damage, however, and we proceeded. I examined the mouth of the Notmoktowoak or "Pack" River, a branch of the Kowak, which draius the country between the Noatok and the latter stream, and passed through two sloughs which I had not seen in coming up. The character of the shores remained the same throughout the day. Steep black banks from twenty to thirty feet high, and occasionally a jutting point of fine mica and gravel, show that underneath this layer of mold there is a substratum of sand and, I think, clay. The boat leaked considerably during the afternoon and at 8 p. m., when opposite the Indian village at which we first camped in coming up, I resolved to stop and have a look at her. We hauled her out, but Andre could not find any fresh leaks, although she was thoroughly saturated and filled with sand and needed a good drying in order to make her tight. Accordingly 1 concluded to stop here until the next night, when she would be in good condition again. Average temperature, 95°. July 30, 1884. — Light northeast breeze with clear, warm weather throughout the day. This morning we discovered that during the night a long seam in the stem of the boat had opened and I sent across tlie river for an Indian woman to repair it. This job would occupy some time, and as the boat needed a day's drying I resolved to seize the opportunity of visiting the Jade Mountain, which is about twelve miles distant from this place. Accordingly at 9 30 a. m. I started, accompanied by Andre and Natorak. The other Indians of our party refused to go, as they said that their shaman had declared the devil in the mountains would surely catch them if they went on any such excursion. Onr walk across to the mountains was attended by excessive fatigue. Our way lay across the soft, yielding tundra through lagoons, around lakes and dense thickets of tangled willows and cottonwood, aud long stretches of pine woods, where fallen trees caused us constantly to turn aside and travel by a circuitous rout e. At one moment exposed to the burning heat of the summer sun, aud the next floundering, plunging, and struggling waist deep in dark pools of stagnant water where the light of day never penetrates, we reached at last the banks of a roaring torrent which sweeps around the base of the Jade Mountain and separates it from a high rugged peak of the same range. The bed of the stream was filled with stones, and huge heaps of them had been piled ui> with humanlike intention by the ice. Andre and I began at once our search for the green stone, l)ut the heart of Natorak failed him here and he could not be induced to go any nearer to the supposed residence of his satanic majesty. We left him to make the camp fire and cook the supper, while we took our way further up stream. Large quantities of green stone were found in the bed of the stream and scattered along its banks. The whole mountain seems to be composed of it, and the sides of the cliffs are like polished glass, so smooth have they been made by pressure or friction. Following the course of the stream we collected a number of specimens of stone aggregating in weight about seventy-five or one hundred pounds and returned to the camp, when we divided our specimens into three packs convenient for carrying, and as it was by this time about 11 p. m., we drank a cui) of tea and lay down by the fire to suatch a few hours' sleep prior to our return. Average temperature, 90°. 64 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. JuJij 31, 1884. — At 3.30 a. m., as the first faint gleams of light appeared in the sky, Andre awoke mo from a deep sleep and suggested that we start as soon as possible for our camp on the river before the heat of the day set ia. Natorak had already made some tea and baked some bread on a stick, and after partaking of this limited refreshment we started on our return. The air was cold at this time of day, and for this rea.son the mosquitoes did not trouble ns Tuucli. I fouiiil myself very stiff and sore after the walk of the day before, but this soon wore off and we started down the side of the mountain at a famous rate. Each of us had quite a load of stone, and in addition to tliis, Andre had the whole of the camp outfit dangling from his belt or strapped to his shoulders. Even with this tremendous load he frolicked around like a young colt turned to pasture, sometimes disappearing ashe followed the track of a beardown some mountain ravine and tlien buisting tlirough a thicket a mile away and rushing down towards us with the numerous articles of his pack dangling and clattering in the wind. His high spirits were infectious and I forgot my fatigue and walked along quite well for about five miles, when we reached the edge of a dense forest of pines and plung('d into its dismal recesses. Here we were beset by myriads of mosquitoes and sand-flies, which attacked us with a persistence and violence utterly beyond description. Sometimes in crossing a morass I would be compelled to steady myself by holding on to the limbs of a fallen tree. At such times the horrible pests would attack my face, neck, and head with venomous force which no pen can describe. After about two hours of this kind of work we emerged upon the open tundra, and a fresh breeze springing up we thiew ourselves down and buried our heads in the yielding moss and grass until the wind had blown the mos- quitoes away. I can not tell how much I suffered during this day. I oidy know that when we reached the river at 5 p. m. I was almost insensible from pain and exhaustion. Our boots were worn through, and Andre had to tie pieces of blanket around my feet to protect them. Despite this precaution they were cut and bruised and so much swollen that he had to cut the boots to get them off. When we reached the river I was informed that Lieutenant Stoney, U. S. N., had passed up and had left a note, kindly offering me any assistance he might be able to render our party. Finding myself too exhausted to go any further at present, I dispatched a note to Mr. ]\rcLenegan, requesting him to bring forward the launch with all possible speed. The shaman of the village oppositeourencami)ment volunteered to act as guide for the launch, and I sent him down with instructions to stand in the launch's bow and pointout the best channel for Mr. McLenegan. These arrangements having been completed, I turned in to sleep and did not awake until next day near noon. August 1, 1884. — We were at work all day making i)reparations for the arrival of the launcli and for an immediate start up the river. The skin boat had had two days' good drying and a thorough overhauling by the Indians of the village. The shaman, who had been opposc. ni. we ran the rapids above the village visited July 18. llere we ceased pulling and allowed her to drift with the current, and it was really alarming to see with wh;it velocity we were whirled along past the crumbling banks and over the rocky shoals. In ten minutes, however, we were through this bad place and took to our oars with considerably more heart and spirit, feeling that the prospect of getting the launch back to the coast was much improved. The wind was ahead all the afternoon, and seemed to draw ahead in every reach. It serve. m. we arrived at au Indian settlement situated at the junction of the main stream with a smaller one flowing off to the left, and here pitched our camp, having made 35.2 miles during the day. The Indians were exceedingly kind and anxious to help us. They rushed into the water waist deep and hauled the boat up with all on board high and dry amidst great excitement, and after building a fire and getting enough wood to last us through tlie night, sat down around lis and smiled on us with great good humor. I learned to day that tlie natives of this region in summer time travel in their skin boats from the headwaters of the Selawik through a small stream into the Kuryukuk and into tlie Yukon with one short portage, and it is probably by this route that Lieutenant Zagoskin, of tlie Russian navy, attempted to make a passage about forty-four years ago. This oflticer reached the head of the Selawik River, but for some reason did not succeed in making the portage. August 14, 1884. — At 7 30 we bade farewell to our kind Indian friends and proceeded on our voyage. Seven miles now brought us to the junction of the Eegyak with the Selawik River. Here we were confronted with a head-wind, compelling us to take to the oars. The banks of the Selawik vary but little from those of the Kowak in character, with the exception that the under- growth is heavier. The width of the river varies from six hundred to a thousand yards, and in some Tihices it expands into bays a mile wide. From four to six fathoms of water were found in the channel. From the mouth of the Eegyak the Selawik trends in a northwesterly direction about six miles and then to the south and west to the lake. Many small lakes and lagoons were observed near the river, and entering one of these 1 discovered an extensive sheet of water lying at the foot of the mountains, about six miles from the river. At 4 p. m. we emerged into a large bay filled with many islands, and the glistening waters of Selawik Lake could be seen about four miles ahead. We crossed the bay and at 5.30 p. m. reached the sand-spit forming the north side of the entrance to the lake. Here we camped, as there was too much sea in the lake for us to go farther. The wind was strong from the southwest all day and we made 25.7 miles. Average temperature, 85°. A ugust 15, 1884. — This morning the wind had gone down and the sea in the lake was decreasing, so that we got away shortly after I took my noon observation. We kept close along the north shore, and I put Andre and Natorak on the beach with a tow-line. The beach is like that on the other side of the lake, composed of sand and gravel, and the shores are generally high, with occasional steep blufts of sand and clay. At a point about one-half the distance from the mouth of the Selawik River to the southern entrance to the lake a river runs in from the mountains which separate the Kowak and Selawik Rivers. Here the country is low and marshy, similar to the Kowak delta. Berries grow in great abundance along the sides of the bluffs and on the 'evel tundra land, and game is exceedingly plentiful. I shot during the afternoon eight ptarmigan, one goose, a loon, and an Arctic hare, and could have shot many more of each of the birds mentioned had we needed them. At 7.30 we stopped for supper, but did not camp as there were signs of a shift of the wind to the northeast during the night and I was anxious to reach the launch as soon as i)03sible. At 10 p. m. the wind came fair and we started. Soon we got from beneath the high bluffs and the wind caught our little sail, sending us spinning over the sparkling waters of the lake and on toward the launch, some twenty miles away. The soft rays of the moon bathed lake, jilain, and distant mountains in a flood of silvery light, and the air was filled with sweet perfume wafted to us from the rich tundra plains. At intervals the long mournful note of the loon, sound- ing strangely like the sobbing of a child, or the low discordant cry of the crane, startled us in our reveries. As we receded from the laud these sounds were lost and only the rushing of the water as it was parted at the bows was heard. At 12 o'clock I relinquished the helm to Andre and rolled up in my blankets for a sleep. Distance made during the day, .33.5 miles. August 16, 1884. — At 3.15 a. m. we arrived at our camp at the entrance of the lake and found all hands well, but tired of their week's idleness, and anxious to get away. At 10 a. m. the wind increased so much that I moved the boats around on the other side of the spit, and found a 70 CIIUISE OF THE STKAMKU COKWIN. coinfortabU' bertli for tliein safe from the sea, wliicli now thuiiilercd on tlio oi)po.site or lake side of the point. The niorninj? was s[)ent in prc'iiaration for our voyaye down Uotham Inlet. I got observations and bearings of prominent points in the neighborhood to assist me in the preparation of a chart, and swung tlic latincli to find the error of the eotiipass. At 4 p. ni., everything being in readiness, we got under way and started down the bay having a twoaiid-a-lialf-k not current to assist us. Toward G o'clock a light breeze from the eastward sprang up and we increased our speed to four knots i)er hour. Tlie skin boat, with Andre and Xatorak as captain and crew, kept steadily ahead of us. At 8 [). m. we stopped for supi)er on the e;ist side vl' the bay, and Andre started a fire on the edge of a huge pile of drift wood which burned like tinder, and a regular conflagration ensued. The flames rushed upward with a mighty roar a distance of thirty feet, and Uw bushes in the vicinity were shrivelled with the heat. When Andre announced supper I could not help being reminded of the fabled mountain in labor, for a little muddy coff'ee and burnt flour were all his tremendous fire ])roduced. We started again a 9 o'clock, following the west shore down, and looking for the mou'h of a river which flows into the inlet from a small lake in the interior of (Ihoris Peninsula, intending to make a harbor there for the night, but owing to the darkness we i)asscd without discovering it, and at 12 o'clock we camjied on the beach just where it begins to make to the westward, having gone 33.5 miles since morning. August 17, ISS-i. — The day was s|)ent in laying off a base-lineon the beach two miles in length for the purpose of fixing the position of tlie principal mouths of the river and prominent points of the bay visible from this place. During the afternoon the wind, which had been light during the forenoon, increased to a fresh breeze, and a heavy sea began rolling in on the beach. I feared the launch would drag her stone anchor and go ashore during the night, and at.') o'clock I took Wilbur, and we started to look for the river about eight miles up the iidet in order to get a safe place to lie. We discovered the entrance at about G p. m., but in attempting to run in got aground on a shoal which is formed by the current and had hard work getting her oil' without help. We finally succeeded in getting her into deep water and made a tack to clear the shoal, and then made another attempt. The wind steadily increased, and we did not dare run any risks, so that dark- ness overtook us before we could gain the refuge of the river, and we were compelled to anciior under the lee of the shoal, where we lay comparatively sheltered from the sea. The wind blew so strong, however, that Wilbur and I stood " watchand-watch " through the night. August 18, 1884. — At 4 a. m. Wilbur and I got the launch under way and stood back toward our camp, arriving there at 8.30 a. m. After having breakfast, we broke camp and stood to the westward along the shore, making but slow headway, as the wind now died away, leaving the sur- face of the bay as smooth as glass. We stopped for a rest at noon, as we had been jjulling at the oars without ceasing since morning. After getting a cup of tea we started again, and as a light northwest wind had sprung up, we stood across the bay towards the delta of the Kowak, sounding, constantly. At 6.30 we arrived opposite the mouth of the river which we entered iu going up and came to near by for sui)per. A boatload of Indians came up to our camp from below, and from them I learned that the Concin was expected to return toCajte Blossom in a day or two, as she had been seen at Chamisso Island about the 16th instant. At 9 o'clock a moderate breeze sprang uj) from the northward, and we got under way to make the most of it; shaped course west-southwest, which just clears a long point projecting into the bay from the south shore, and arranged the party in watches for the night. At 12 changed course to northwest by north. Distance made during the day, thirty-seven miles. Average temperature, 85°. August 19, 1884. — After 12 o'clock the weather clouded over and the wind increased to a fresh breeze. At 2 a. m. rounded a point of land projecting into the bay from Ohoris Peninsula, and shaped our course for Eucami)ment No. 2, where we had cached some pemmican and potatoes. At daybreak the wind died away entirely, and we took to our oars. Arrived at our old camp at 10.30, and found our cache undisturbed; but the two cans of desiccated jiotatoes were found upon examination to be unfit for use, and I decided not to take them. As it was dead calm on the bay, I delayed here to allow all hands a chance to get a little sleep. At 2 a. m. a light, favorable breeze sprang up, and we got under way and stood toward the entrance to the inlet. At 4 a. m. we pas.sed the fifteenth mouth of the Kowak, which flows into Ilotham Inlet nearly opjiosite the entrance. Toward 8 o'clock we headed iu for some high bluffs forming the south side of the bay, and discov- CRUISE OF THE STEAMER COitW IN. 71 ered an exteusive shoal making out intd the iulet Iroui this jjoiiit. Coiuiimnicated with jjarty of Indians, who informed us that the Corwin had been at Cape Blossom, but had left for Point Hope this morning. The wind continued light and bafiiiug all night, and we made very little headway. Distance made during the day, thirty-eight miles. Average temperature, 85°. August 20, 1884. — The light wind continued until -l a. m., when it shifted to the northwest and commenced blowing hard. Soon we rounded the bluff headland of Hotham Inlet and stood for the site of our first encampment. The Indians of the trading village who had witnessed our approach were gathered on the beach to receive us, and when we hinded ami began pitching our camp they were exceedingly troublesome in a harmless way, examining everything brought on shore, trying the axes, lifting the boxes, opening everything that could be opened, and, in general, making themselves excessively familiar. We allowed them to do pretty much as they pleased, as it would have been folly to resist them, and we got along very well until breakfast. I thought we would have some rest then at least, and we retired to our tent and closed the flap before beginning to eat. This maneuver nonplused them for a momeftt, but soon a dirty-faced rascal thrust his head through the opening and surveyed us with a grin of delight. The liap was hauled over rather roughly by one of our party, and the Indian retired precipitately. We had begun to imagine that question settled when a sudden rush was heard, and the whole front of the tent was thrust aside by a dozen natives, who crowded in and sat down around us, all in the best of spirits seemingly, and, beyond this determination to see us eat, quite untlemonstrative. Andre advised me to refrain from any show of impatience, as the curiosity of the natives would soon become satisfied and they would leave us. When we proposed to retire, I was gratified to see a general move on the part of the Indians to leave us to ourselves, and soon not one could be seen within a mile of the camp. We had tine weather to-day, and 1 had the launch scrubbed and all bidding aired. Distance made, ten miles. Average temperature, 85°. August 21, 1884. — Today I found some coal which bad been sent on shore from the Corwin, together with a letter from Captain Healy directing me to ascertain particulars as to the numbers of the Indians who annually make this spot a rendezvous for trade, and to examine the shoal lying off the inlet with a view of discovering a channel to the sea. I visited the village after dinner and counted nearly six hundred natives. 1 was informed tiiat as many had gone back to their homes. From the middle of July to the latter part of August the natives of the Noitoc, Kowak, and Selawick Rivers meet those from Cape Prince of Wales, Diomedes, and Point Hope for the purpose of trade. The beginning of the season is celebrated by dancing, feasting, and storj'-telling, which occupy one day, and after that is accomplished the real business of the occasion is prosecuted with sur])rising tact and ability. In this community of uncivilized beings the same methods of business are adopted whereby prices and values are made to vary in proportion to the demand as are used by their more enlightened brothers in the civilized world. Rifles are always in demand, and next to whisky obtain the readiest sale. The chief of the Prince of Wales Eskimos is probably the most i)owerful magnate of this region, owing no doubt to the fact that his settlement is a convenient stopping place for vessels having these articles of contraband trade on board. His method of becoming rich is simple and efl'ective. Upon the opening of business he offers the Indians whisky in exchange for rifles, and will not trade for anything else, and is generally successful in obtaining a "corner" in rifles in this way. I was informed that it was not an unusual thing for an Indian to sell and buy his litte twice or three times in this way during one season, or as long as the whisky lasted. It is gratifying to learn that whisky as an article of commerce is becoming scarcer every year. It is exceedingly difficult to obtain any reliable information as regards the number or amount of anything. Generally speaking, the native system of notation is limited to the fingers and toes, . and any very large number is expressed by a handful of sand. The village consists of a straggling line of tents along the beach. Some were composed of a number of i)oles arranged in a conical fashion and covered with deerskins ; others of blue, white, or red drilling were seen, and one more gaudy than the rest was covered with the remnants of a cheap bed-quilt, on which was printed in glaring colors the picture of a man sitting up in bed with a candle in one hand and a fifteen puzzle in the other. The tents of the "omaliks" are generally more imposing affairs, made in the United States and brought here by the traders. The chief of the Kotzebuc Sound Eskimos, who took a violent fancy to me, acted as my guide through the village, and upon arriving at his tent invited 72 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. me inside. Upon entering: we sat down on the soft skins covering the ground, ami lighting onr pipes smoked and smiled at each otlier with great comi)hiceacy. I did not feel quite so contented, however, when his wife phiced before us a dish of white whale blubber for our refreshment. I chose a delicate looking morsel and put it in my mouth. It tasted like solidified codfish oil might taste, and I declined any more, giving as my excuse a late and hearty dinner. Wc were followed through the village by great crowds of men, women, children, and dogs, who kept np a continual howling and hustled each other about in great good humor. Huge bear, wolf, and deer skins were thrown on the ground for me to walk over, and when I returned to my camp the little boys ran ahead and picked berries for me to eat. Anguxt 22, 18S4. — The excitement resulting from onr arrival had evidently died out this morning, for the Indians did not attend in such largo numbers as yesterday. After breakfost I took the launch, and with Wilbur, Andre, and a native who lives here, went out to the bar searching for the channel across the shoals. After sailing backwards and forwards for about five hours I could not discover any deeper channel than one fathom across the bar. There are many small sloughs leading from the deep water inside, but all those I examined ended in shoal water before reaching the sea. It is probable that the channel is subject to many changes from the effects of ice and wind. Inside the bar a deep channel, with from four to eight fathoms, runs along close to the beach north by west to the point of land south of the village, thence north-northwest to a remarkable bluff Iieadland, forming the right side of the entrance to llotham Inlet. There is no channel into Uotham Inlet on the north side. There is good water along the north side as far as the mouth of the Noitoc, but here it ends, and a large shoiil ])revents boats from passing through the inlet by this route. When we returned to our camj) I learned that ten large boats had arrived from Cape Prince of Wales and two from Point Hope. I visited the village after dinner, and found the whole place in an uproar of excitement. Tents were being pitched, boats hauled out and converted into houses, skins and trade goods thrown together in large piles, and above all the noise and bustle the howling of three or four hundred dogs tended to increase the Babel-like confusion. When I arrived there was a momentary lull in the proceedings. Many of the natives had seen me on the Corioin and recognized me now. They crowded around me, and were evidently anxious to know the cause of my presence. Upon being assured that I did not come with any malign intentions they welcomed me with every evidence of joy, and kept me hemmed in until one or two drunken Eskimos had been hustled out of sight, and then resumed their preparations for trade, allowing me to go wherever I pleased. I was followed by a mob of boys, who showed the same propensity for mischief as the small white boy does on similar occasions. After taking a rapid census of the population, which I estimated at about fourteen hundred, I returned to our camp. Avgust 23, 1^81. — Soon after breakfast this morning an Indian ran across the fields and informed us that the natives of the diflerent settlements were about to celebrate the arrival of the Cape Prince of Wales chief by having a dance, and wanted me to be i)resent. I immediately started with Andre, and in a short while the tent of the Kotzebue Sound chief was reached. After partaking rather gingerly of some seal meat which he ofiered us we started together for the scene of the dance. Upon a level plot of ground a short distance from the village about twelve hundred natives were gathered, and the sound of the drums and the howling chant of the singers announced the fact that the ball had opened. On our ap])roach the crowd around the dancers fell back and allowed us to pass through to a spot favorable for observation. Within the circle some half dozen Indians, dressed in fancifully-trimmed i)arkas and wearing liighly-ornanieuted gloves and boots, were going through the most astonishing contortions, sometimes leaping high into the air and doubling themselves n\) with head, hands, and feet all in a bunch, or standing in one place, swaying to and fro, and making spasmodic gestures, with their hands clinched and necks stitt'ened to a rigidity that was appalling. W^ith horrible grimaces they glared around at the crowd, in every action keeping time with the musicians, who were ranged in a line behind them. The musicians kept uj) a continual beating on their drums, accompanied by a chanting song, the words of which were indistinguishable. I was informed tliat on such occasions tlie words of the song are extemi)oraneous, generally relating to the business for which they are gathered together, but that, when wrods or ideas fail them, they get along fully as well by repeat- ESKIMO WOMAN, SHOWING LABRET OR LIP ORNAMENT. CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 73 ing over and over the " Hnng-Hi-Huug-A-Hung-A-A-A," which seems to contain all the elements necessary to arouse the dancers to a pitch of frenzy. After the dancers fioui the different settle- ments had performed a general dance took place in which the women joined, and the whole assemblage, as if to do honor to the fair sex, joined in the chorus. Several drunken natives forced themselves through tlie crowd and ran wildly around the open space, but they were speedily ejected. As the dance proceeded the number of drunken men increased so much that our friend, the chief, advised ns to leave, which we did, not, however, before a brawny, half-naked Eskimo from Point Hope had burst through the crowd and, in tiie ardor of his affection, flung himself on me and buried iiis bushy head on my breast, at the same time imploring me to give him some whisky. When he wns told that I had no whisky, but would destroy all there was in the village if he did not behave, he set np a furious yell and Hung himself upon the ground, howling and tearing up the grass like a wild animal. We escaped from the crowd and regained our camp without further adventure, but long after darkness had obscured the view in all other directions tlie glare from a hundred fires lighted np the plain in the vicinity of the village, and the dark forms of the natives could be seen flitting to and fro, and their howls and shouts of bacchanalian laughter came floating down to us on the wind, showing that the orgy was still at its height. Aupust 24, 1SS4.— The d;iy began with a moderate breeze from the northwest, and at noon shifted to the northward and commenced blowing hard. We shifted the anchorage of the launch to a more sheltered spot and got out both stone anchors. At sunset the wind had increased to a moderate gale, and the sea had risen so much that I feared the launch would either drag her anchors and go on the beach, or be swamped. We placed the coal on board today and that set her so much by the head that she was unmangeable under sail. Wilbur and I stayed by all niglit, and at 12 o'clock the seas were making clean breaches over her and we were kept busy bailing until morning. August 25, 1884. — At daylight the gale moderated somewhat, and at 7 a. m. I got ashore from the launch and examined the entrance to a lagoon about one mile to the eastward of ns and found a narrow channel leading to a safe harbor for the launch. At 8.30 we put two reefs in the launch's sail, and having shifted all the coal aft, got under way and stood for the entrance to the lagoon. The wind was now blowing a gale from the northward, and a heavy chop-sea was running in the sound. Fortunately for us the launch did not touch bottom in the narrow channel, and at 9 o'clock we came to anchor in a lagoon which extends nearly across to Cape Blossom. During the after- noon we brought the tent and camp outfit to this harbor, and at night I was thankful we had so snug a place to lie, as the wind increased to a gale, and the sea in the sound became so high that the launch would not have lived through it. Natorak brought me a present of tea from the chief of the Selawik Indians, who also desired that I should pay him a visit. Accordingly I went over to the village and called on the old man. He was very glad to see me, and after making me a present of a bear-skin asked me to take supper with him. I accepted, and in a short while we sat down to a repast consisting of seal meat, berries and oil, and flour paste, brought to a close by a cup of tea brewed for my especial benefit in an old tomato can. August 26, 1884. — The wind shifted to the eastward during the night, and this morning the water had fallen some five feet, leaving the launch aground on the soft muddy bottom. The channel leading from the inlet to the sea is greatly affected by the wind, and a single gale will so alter its position as to make it impossible to place any dependence on previous soundings. During the day I visited the village for the purpose of locating the channel while the water was low. From a high point of land the [)Osition of many shoals was located with the aid of the sextant, but as far as I could see there is no regularly defined channel leading to the sea. . August 27, 1884. — The weather continues clear, but is growing cold, and tliough we sleep in the tent we find it hard to keep warm during the night. I observed signs of frost on the leaves this morning, and the mud around the edges of the lagoons was partially frozen. The chief of the Selawiks took breakfast with me this morning, and after that ceremony was over he had a smoke and then stowed himself away in a corner and slept soundly until dinner was announced at 5 p. m. We gave him some boiled fish and bread, and after dinner I negotiated with him for a bag of flour, as ours is nearly gone. The continued wet weather we had at the beginning of the trip spoiled our baking-powder, and we have bread now in its primitive state. Although nothing is 74 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER COUWIN. said by way of coiniilaiiit, 1 know every one is lookiiij; anxiously seaward a hundred times a day for tlie siglit of smoke wliicli will herald the Coricin's approach. The wind was light all day from the westward, and the water did not come in sufficiently to float the launch. August 28, 1884^.— Begau with a moderate west breeze and overcast, with light rain. At 5 a. m. observed the Coricin at anchor off Cape Krusenstern. At 9 a. ni. stood out of the river into Ivotzebue Sound. Found a rough chojisea in the bay. At 11. .30 sighted the Coricin's surf-boat heading for us and came to anchor. The breeze increased and the sea ro.se so much that we decided to return to the harbor and wait for better weather. Accordiugly, the surf-boat accom- panying us, we re-enterearty, left for the Coricin. There being no nece.ssity of his remaining longer, at his request I gave him permission to rejoin the ship. At noon, the wind having lulled somewhat, we got steam up and stood out of the harbor and passed into Kotzebue Sound. We stood for the channel, but were obliged to turn back on account of the sea, which made clean breaches over the launch. At .3.30 we reentered the harbor and canie to anchor. Night came on cold and windy. At miiluight the wind was still blowing, but unsteadily, so that I hoped to be able to go down the bay in the morning. Average temperature, .'ioo. August 30, 1884.— Began with a moderate northwest breeze, clear, with light snow-flurries. At 5.30 ordered steam on launch, broke camp, and cached the skiff near our encampment, as I thought I could not tow both boats over the bar. At 7..30 a. m. got under way and stood out of the harbor. At 0.30 stood westward in Kotzebue Sound, and at 10 a. m. took the skin boat in tow. Sounding along the beach I found from three to four feet of water. At 12.30 crossed the bar and met the surf boat fifteen miles westward of Cape Blossom, with Lieutenant Cook in charge. Had dinner at 2..30 p. m., and got under way atid stood southward. The wind increa.sed and we dropped the skin boat, as she couhl sail faster than the launch could tow her. At 4.30 took in sail and unstrapped mast. Steamed alongside the Corwin and reported our return on board to Capt. M. A. Uealy. N umber of days on trip 51 Number of days under way 43 Number of miles made up the river 370 Number of miles made in exploring Sela.wik Lake and region 204. 9 Number of miles from Corwin to mouth of river 75 Number of miles from Selawik Lake to Coricin 85 Total number of miles made 1, 104. 9 Respectfully submitted. .John ('. Cantvveli,, Third Lieutenant U. S. Revenue Marine, in charge of Expedition. EXPLORATION OF THE KOWAK RIVER, ALASKA. ETHNOLOGICAL NOTES. BY THIRD LIEUT. J. C. CANTWELL, U. S. Revenue Marine. 188 4. (ILLUSTRATED WITH NINE PHOTOGRAPHS AND FIVE PLATES.) 75 INTRODUCTORY. In taking np the subject of Alaskan ethnology I feel the natural hesitation of an inexperi- enced observer to advance any new theories, or even discuss old ones, touching such a vast branch of the study as treats of the origin of the Eskimos and their tribal classification. The object of this report will be, then, to describe as simply as possible the cliaracteristic feature of the natives as they appeared to me during tiie work of exploration of the Kowak itiver and Selawik Lake region, leaving to more competent ethnological students the important work of sifting and reducing the evidence as here presented into such form as may be of service in the preparation of a more formal and pretentious work. Range of ohnervation. — For reasons fully explained in the narrative account of the exploration of the Kowak, the expedition was compelled to relinquish the attempt to reach the headwaters of the river and to return to the coast. When this had been accomplished there still remained a suflBcient time from the period allotted me to make a short journey by boat through the Selawik Lake region, embracing tbe circumnavigation of the lake and a partial examination of the river delta. This reconnaissance not only brought me into contact with the native living in this region, but furnished me with information in regard to the topography, which resulted in several important changes being made in the maps of that section of the country. (8ee description of chart.) After the completion of this work I nioved our canjp to a sand-spit projecting into Kotzebue .Sound, from the southern side of the entrance to Hotham Inlet, where the coast natives of the several settlements from Bering Strait, northward to Cape Lisburne, had rendezvoused to trade with the natives of the interior living on the Noitoc, Kowak, and Selawik Rivers. The opportunity thus offered me for observation was not lost, and in company with Mr. McLenegan and onr interpre- ter I visited the rendezvous every day. By persistent questioning and close personal observa- tions the information which is here furnished was verified and corrected, and afterwards reduced to its present state. I have resisted the temptation seemingly inseparable from the first attempts of a writer in an entirely new field to exaggerate the facts falling under my notice, and have rejected all material which did not staiul the test of thorough investigation, or about which there existeil any material ditference of opinion. In tliis way I believe I have obtained data in regard to these people whieh, if not all new, is at least reliable, and will famish available matter for filling in a portion of the blank space ou the ethnological chart of Alaska. 77 ALASKAN ETHNOLOGICAL NOTES. INLAND NATIVES. Under this subdivision 1 iucUide the natives living in the interior of Northwest Ahiska, on or near the banks of the three large streams whose waters emptj' into Kotzebue Sound through Hotbaiu Inlet, namely : the Noitoc, Kowak, and Selawik rivers. The language of these three tribes differs so little that it may be looked upon as a common tongue, and their general habits and customs are so similar tbat they may be considered as one race. Mode of life. — During the first part of the winter, when the sun is in the south and the long Arctic night is on the earth, all these tribes live in small isolated communities, usually consisting of from one to three families, in subterranean houses erected near the banks of the larger streams. With the return of the sun and daylight they desert these houses, and as soon as the ground is in good condition, that is to say, when the snow has fallen in sufficient quantity and the surface is frozen to the requisite degree of hardness to furnish good traveling, they take up their uomatlic mode of life and do not settle permanently into villages until the fishing season sets in late in the following spring. In response to repeated inquiries as to whether there were any permanent winter settlements in the interior, I was informed that none existed. The tiesh of the reindeer furnishes the natives witli their chief means of subsistence during the winter, and in hunting they are compelled to follow them hundreds of miles, from place to place, over the vast tundra plains in their restless search for food. Under such circumstances the establishment of permanent winter settlements is impossible. During these winter migrations the young men of a family or commune first push forward on snow-shoes to locate a herd of reindeer, and are followed by the old men, women, and children, who bring up the impedimenta of domestic economy on sleds drawn by dogs. The work of the women on these occasions is especially arduous; and for all the struggle for existence is prosecuted in the face of difficulties which would seem to our minds absolutely appalling. Arrived at a suita- ble place for encampment, which must not be too far removed from the feeding reindeer, nor yet 80 near as to risk stampeding their quarry, all hands set at once to work to build a snow house or igloo. This work is soon finished, and the sleds are unloaded and placed on the top of the house out of reach of the famished dogs, who would speedily gnaw the deer-skin lasliings on the sleds to pieces if left within their reach. Meanwhile the boys have stored away the contents of the sleds within the house, and a fire being lighted by igniting moss saturated in oil contained in a stone iani[) the women proceed to cook what there is to be eaten. Every morning, when the weather permits, the hunters of the party lea-ve the igloo and prose- cute the search for game, and at night, when they return, the women divest them of their wet clothing, furnish them with dry garments, and cook whatever has been brought in by the provider. A small portion is usually set aside out of the amount provided for future use, but all these peojile are strangely and often fatally improvident. It seldom happens that there is more than two or three days' extra supply of provisions on hand, and as it frequently hai)pens that stormy or intensely cold weather keeps the hunters close prisoners within doors for a week at a time, starvar 79 80 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. tion ofteu threatens and sometiint's overtakes whole families at once. Except in the case of (Irving sufficient lisli to last them from the time the rivers are frozen over until the winter hunting begins, there does not appear to be the slightest attempt on the part of the natives to lay up any amount of provisions in time of plenty to be used in case of accident or an unusual scarcity of game. The cooking of these natives while living in their siiow houses is done by tilling a small wooden tub with snow, which melts when brought in the heated air of the igloo, and is brought to the boiling point by iilunging into it stones heated to redness in the flame of the stone lamp. The meat is partially boiled by this means. When two or more parties happen to meet on one of these hunting expeditions they endeavor to combine the lierds they are respectively following, and if successful they will thenceforth hunt in company, looking upon the products of the chase as common i)roperty. Although most of these natives are provided with fire-arms, the native spear and arrow, both fired from a bow, are used iu hunting the reindeer. Fire-arms are objectionable both on account of the scarcity of ammunition and the noise of discharge. Toward the last of the season, when the snow begins to leave the ground and the ice is melted in the rivers and lakes, the reindeer begin to grow more restless and harder to herd, a grand hunt is inaugurated. By a preconcerted avraugement the natives drive their several herds toward a point, contriving to get then} all there about the same time. In the region near the headwaters of the Kowak, Noitoe, and another river which native reports impress us with the belief is the Colville, is a lake forming the headwaters of the latter stream. It is on the shores of this lake that the grand annual hunt takes place. The reindeer are gradually heidcd together and partly surrounded by tlie hunters, who then slowly contract their lines until the deer find tliimselves inclosed on all sides except one, and that has been purposely left unguarded by the hunters. When the movement has reached this stage the hunters rush forwanl, shouting and making all the noise possible, for the purpose of stamiieding the deer. This is {.enerally successful, and hundreds of the poor creatures plunge into the lake, for this is the only jioint by whi(!h escape seems possible, and are followed by tlie hunters iu boats provided for tlie i)urpose and a carnival of slaughter follows. With the opening of spring, when tlie ice in the rivers begins to break up and the snow has melted to such an extent as to render traveling by sled any longer possible, the natives gather iu small settlements along the banks of the larger rivers, erect summer houses or tupecs, the men to hunt and trap, and the women to get ready their nets for the summer fishing. When the ice finally leaves the rivers the hunters get ready their furs which have been collected during the winter, and descend in open boats to the coast, where they meet white traders who come into the Arctic duiing tiie summer season for the jturpose of barter. Usually these natives remain on the coast either for the juirpose of trading or for pleasure, in taking part in the games and festivities, attending the summer rendezvous until winter again comes on and the cold weather reminds them that they must return to their inland homes. Meanwhile the women, who appear to be the only creatures of the body politic (not even excepting the dogs) who have no season of rest, are busy witli the fishing. During exceptionally open winters, when the ice in Kotzebue Sound moves offshore early in t lie spring, and thus allows the ice-gorged rivers to free themselves, there are two runs of salmon, but when the ice remains packed in close to the shore, as it usually does in Kotzebue Sound, until late in the season, only one run takes place. This was the case during the season of 1SS4. We entered the river on the Sth day of July, and at each of the fishing villages passed on our way up the lower river we found the peoi)le .suttering for food on account of the late run of fish. Before wo turned to descend, however, the salmon had arrived, and wo had ample opportunity for observing the methods in use with the natives for capturing and curing the fish. The site of a fishing village is usually on a sand and gravel beach near the water's edge and at a part of the river where the channel is contracted by shoals. The houses at these villages are very simple affairs, made by planting a half dozen supple willow wands into the ground in the form of a circle and then bending their upper ends toward the (tenter and twisting them together basljetfashion to form the frame. Over this frame a covering made of drilling or deer-skins is thrown and the house is complete. A jirimitive but serviceable shelter from the hot sun and almost continuous lains of the summer season was observed at LITTLE GIRL, SHOWING IVORY CHARM WORN AROUND THE NECK. CRUISE OP THE STEAMER CORWm. 81 several villages made with a covering of large pieces of birch bark sown together. In each village there is a storehouse made of heavy pieces of timber stood on end and a flat roof made of small poles, where fish are stored after having been dried in the sun. This house has a rude door which can be closed and thus efiFectually prevent the depredations of dogs. As no cooking is done within the house during the summer there is no necessity foran opening in the roof for the escape of smoke, and in order to be protected as much as possible from the tormenting mosquito exit and entry are made by lifting a corner of the covering and crawling under as quickly as possible. Additional jirotection is had by building fires made of green boughs, which produce a stifling smoke. The nets used in taking the fish are made of thread manufactured by twisting together the tough fibrous root of a specios of plant found in abundance along the banks of the river. They are from thirty to sixty feet long and from four to five and one-half feet wide and are made with a two to three inch mesh. The knot used in forming the mesh is the ordinary " fisherman's bend." ■ Sinkers are made from short pieces of reindeer antlers or bits of stone. The boats used by the women in laying out the nets are made of spruce bark ingeniously fastened to a wooden frame by thread made from the inner bark of the willow. The seams are made perfectly water-tight by cementing them with melted spruce-gum. At the height of the fishing season some one is always on the lookout for a school of fish, and when one is seen approaching the village — and the commotion in the water leaves no room for doubt — two or three women leap into a boat, in which is a net all ready for laying out, and paddle vigorously up stream until they reach a point about one hundred yards above the village. One end of the net is now landed and held by some of the women on shore while the boat's head is turned across stream. When all of the net has been laid out the boat is allowed to drift with the current, and the shore end of the net being held stationary, the boat gradually approaches the beach. When she grounds the women leap out and begin hauling in the net with its plunging, flashing catch of salmon. Many escape by leaping over the top of the net, and to prevent this the little boys rush into the water and, seizing the fish by their tails, throw them far out on the beach. One of the amusing sights witnessed by our party while looking on at the hauling in of a seine was the spectacle of a very small boy who had seized a very large salmon, whose vigorous efforts to escape had reduced the plucky youngster to the necessity of piteously calling for help. The fishing season is a period filled with rare enjoyment to at least one class of the native population. The old men who are too feeble to make the long journey to the coast and return are left at home with the women, and do nothing but eat fish and sleep all the time. A fire is kept going night and day, in which large round stones are heated and then thrown into a tub of water. By this means the water is brought to the boiling point, when the stones are removed and replaced by fish. An old woman superintends the cooking, armed with a huge spoon from the skull of the mountain sheep. When she declares the feast ready everybody gathers around the fire, and after the old men have been served the rest help themselves. The fish are eaten from small wooden platters or shallow bowls. In addition to the method of catching fish with seines, as described above, the use of conical- shaped willow traps is common. They are made to sink beneath the surface of the water and with the entrance so constructed that the fish can easily get into the trap, but find it impossible to get out. For some species of small fish, such as the grayling, trout, etc., a native fish-hook of ingenious manufacture is used with great success. (See sketch, Figures 2 and 4, Plate 11.) The salmon are cured and prepared for winter use by splitting them open and removing all the oflfal, the head, and backbone. Transverse cuts are then made in the fiesh and the body is hung up to dry on racks placed along the beach. The roe is dried separately. I saw only one instance of fish being buried to be subsequently exhumed and eaten when putrid. I do not believe the custom is as common here as it is with the Yukon River natives. Physical appearance. — The natives of the interior have, as a rule, rather dark complexions, prominent cheek bones, large months, and a sharp chin, giving to the face a triangular appearance very different from the round face of the coast Eskimo. Their hair is black aTid straight. It is worn long except in front, where it is trimmed across the forehead on a line with the eyebrows. They are quick in their movements, active and strong in youth, but grow aged-looking rapidly. H. Mis. 602 G 82 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. What impressed me was the fact that I saw very few men of apijarent middle age. The women are somewliiit lighter complexioncd than the men. Their faces are more oval-shaped, and their eyes have a mnch softer expression. They wear the hair parted neatly in the middle and arranged in two braids, which are worn in front of the ears. In common with all these northern tribes, the extremities of both sexes are very small, and, in the case of the women, remarkably well shaped. Moral character. — The fact that these interior tribes are better morally than their brethern of tho^coast is so apparent that even the dullest observer must see the difference between the two, and woniler how it happens that these natives who have been brought into contact with our boasted civilization are more objectionable in their manners and less trustworthy than those who have not enjoyed these advantages. A few words will suflBce to show the moral character of these gentle hyperboreans. They are honest in their dealings with strangers and amongst themselves, as we had ample means of finding out. They are simple and credulous, and easily deceived, showing that they are not liable to deceive others. They are hospitable, and although intensely curious, are not prying or intrusive. In their domestic relations they are kind and devoted to each other, • and the universal consideration paid by all to the very old and feeble is one of the touching and admiral)Ic traits of their character. The extraordinarily kind and indulgent treatment of their children is a trait which is common to all these northern tribes. They have no laws except that one which seems to be inherent in the hearts of all rational beings, to " do unto others as ye would others should do unto you," and I believe that these people live up to tiiat law as perfectly as their sense of what is right and wrong will allow them. There are certain contradictory phases of character in all of these tribes which seem at first glance to be irreconcilable with their generally kind and loving disposition. I allude to the harsh treatment of their women, especially at the time of child-birth, and at other periods when nature would seem to claim for them the utmost care and protection. Following the customs of all of the Alaskan coast tribes in this region, the women arc isolated at the time of confinement, and for a period of a week or ten days after child-birth no fresh food is allowed to pass their lips. At the time of her monthly periods of menstruation a woman is not allowed to enter a boat or ride upon the sled of her husband. This often entails on her additional hardship in a life which at best is but one long act of drudgery. Another bad trait of these natives is their apparent inability to tell the truth under cei-tain circumstances. The traveler must accept with care the tales some of these Munchausens tell of the size of fish, length of rivers, width of lakes, etc. Upon cross-examination when a statement is proven to be false or erroneous they do not evince any shame whatever. Governmeiif.—WheTd there are no laws it follows that there is no necessity for rulers, and so it is with all these tribes. There are no recognized chiefs, nor does there seem to be any tribal union among them. With the interior tribes the exercise of " Shamanism," so-called, is prevalent, and the " shaman," in some instances which came under my notice, seemed to have a prepondera- ting influence in the councils of the settlement or commune. Exactly how the " shaman " receives his supposed power which he claims enables him to converse with spirits was not clearly explained. Some peculiar circumstance attending his birth, or the fact that he has passed through some ordeal which few could undergo, probably has much to do with the case. Again, in all communities of human beings there seem to exist individuals who are gifted by nature with a higher order ot intelligence than their fellows, and for that reason are naturally looked up to and their advice sought on all important occasions. The "shamans" whom we had occasion to deal with were observed to be more retiring and dignified in their bearing than what I was led to expect from reading reports on the subject by other writers. They were generally the last to make our acquaintance at a settlement and seldom remained long near our camp, which was a trait so unusual with the natives as to attract our attention at once. An instance of the display of the "shaman's" powers is mentioned in the narrative portion of this report. The omailik or chief trader and general business agent of the Eskimo coast tribes is not so common among these nomadic people. They have so little to barter that it does not give any one man the chance to accumulate wealth by the exercise of a superior talent for business. In all discussions touching the welfare of the community or any important project, the women, especially the old ones, join, and their opinions are received with evident respect by the men. While there are no laws among them and consequently no recognized punishment for the com- GROUP OF NORTON SOUND NATIVES, FORT ST. MICHAELS. .^^ ^J^iijj't \M\ _„;rfL;; ..^-t— 1j- '.siC NATIVE VILLAGE, KING'S ISLAND. CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 83 mission of crime, there exists a kind of moral code which governs them in all their relations one with another. To disturb a cache of clothing or provisions which does not belong to one, for in- stance, is considered a very great sin ; but should intense suffering or imminent danger from starva- tion make it necessary to open anothers cache there is no redress for the owner and none is sought. Diseases. — Pulmonary complaints and rheumatism are the principal causes of sickness among these natives. Weak or inflamed eyes are frequently seen, but it is probable that the cause is attributable more to neglect of sanitary precautions in regard to ventilation of their winter houses thjin to any organic disorder. Epidemic diseases are of rare occurrence. Smallpox sometimes reaches this region through communication with the natives living on the Koyukuk River, a confluent of the Yukon ; but as I observed only one native marked with this dread disease it probably never reaches the epidemic stage. Syphilis has not as yet reached the interior settlements to any great extent, but as it is common among the coast tribes, it is only a question of time when its ravages will extend to these people. But little is known in regard to the treatment of the sick, and it is believed that beyond a very few herbs used by the " shaman " to assist him in his incantations of evil spirits while attending the sick, nothing is given in the way of medicine to cure the disorder. Funeral ceremonies. — The dead are not interred nor does there appear to be any formal funeral ceremonies. The body is removed to some secluded spot, usually on a bluft' overlooking the river, and laid upon the ground. A shelter is made by erecting a small conical-shaped structure of spruce logs over the body and a tree near by is stripped of its branches and small pieces of cloth are tied to it to mark the spot. The household utensils, sled, and some of the weapons of the deceased are left with him, and the spot is tabooed henceforth. Food. — As has already been intimated, the principal food of the natives during the winter months is reindeer meat. Pish are also caught tlirough holes made in the ice on the rivers and lakes which dot the country. The flesh of the bear, fox, wolf, muskrat, beaver, and mountain sheep also is eaten, and forms a welcon>e addition to their ration. During the brief summer season salmon is the principal article of subsistence with those who live far inland on the rivers, while those who make the journey to the coast or who live in the settlements near the mouths of the rivers have a much greater variety of articles to eat. The flesh of the seal and white whale is eagerly devoured and the greatest abundance of many varieties of edible berries are found on the tundra plains. Among these the salmon and blue berry are favorites and are eaten by the natives soaked in seal oil. Wild currants grow abundantly in the higher land of the upper-river region, and among the wild edible roots indigenous to the region, observed by our party, were the onion, celery, parsnip, and a plant resembling rhubai'b. The parsnip is considered poisonous on the Yukon River, but our party frequently ate the species found here without any perceptible evil eftect. The tender shoots of the willow are cooked in oil and eaten by the natives when hard pushed for food. I was curious to observe how our food would bo accepted by the natives, and found that for such articles as flour, pemmican, tea, and rice they showed a decided fondness. Sweets, such as sugar, canned fruit, and condensed milk, were also greedily eaten; but for salt pork they evinced such aversion that there could be no mistaking their repugnance for it. During the time some of the natives were xyith our party and living on our ration, whenever pork or bacon formed the meat portion of our meals they would not touch it, and I was compelled to purchase some dried fish for their especial benefit. The upper waters of the Kowak and the many lakes and lagoons near the rivers teem with myriads of geese and duck during the breeding season, which lasts from July until the latter part of August. Swans and cranes are also found in limited numbers in the more secluded parts of the river and interior lakes. All these birds are boiled after being skinned. The head, feet, and intestines are considered the choice morsels. This ftict flrst came to my notice while camping in company with some river Indians who had shot a goose. With the intention of paying me particular attention, these tidbits were set before me by one of their number. Clothing. — The clothing of all these tribes is essentially the same, consisting of an outer and inner coat or "parka" of deer-skin, tight-fitting trousers of hair-seal skin, and boots with deer- skin leggins and soles made of walrus or white- whale skin. In winter the inner garments are worn with the fur next to the body and the outer ones reversed. No hats or caps are worn by either g4 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. sex, but the outer "parka" is made with a hood, which is drawu over the head, leaving only the face exposed during cold weather. Around the edge of the hood a piece of some long-haired fur is sewed to protect the eyes from Hying particles of snow. Wolf-skin is usually preferred for this purpose. The women's "parkas" are much longer than the men's, reaching below the knee in front and behind, bat cut up on the sides almost to the waist to allow of a free use of the legs in walking. The women wear a belt to confine their " parkas" around the waist, and to it are fastened by short deerskin thongs bits of ivory, metal buttons, leather bags in which are kept tobacco, matches, needles, etc., and any other small article of value to them. This belt also enables a mother to carry her baby underneath the folds of her " parka," which is the usual resting place of the young Eskimo. In addition to the boots, iuncr shoes or socks made of soft, tanned buck or hair-seal skin are worn. Mittens made of reindeer-skin, with the hair turned in, are worn winter and summer. During the summer season much lighter and generally more worn clothing is used, the inner garments are discarded, and where cloth can be obtained it is substituted for fur. The skins of the muskrat and squirrel are extensively used for summer parkas. At several places on the Kowak I observed children with only one garment on — a parka — which left their legs bare to the attacks of the blood-thirsty mosquito, and compelled them to crouch down near the ground and withdraw their arms from the sleeves of the parka to avoid these pests. Some of the children's parkas are made of bird-skius sewed together, and the sightof half a dozen of these little savages sitting crouched along the banks of the river remiuded us of a flock of storks fishing. Ail the clothing of these tribes, and, iu fact, everything they wear or use capable of harboring life, abounds in vermin. Their houses are so filled with these disgusting creatures that after one sad experience I never entered a winter habitation. The women make all of the clothing and keep it iu order. They are expert in the use of the needle, but their work in this respect does not compare with that of the coast natives. Thread is made of deer sinew, and I saw a few specimens of needles made of bone, but they arc now almost obsolete, being replaced by steel needles obtained in barter on the coast. Transportation and locomotion. — The interior of northwest Alaska is composed of detached, broken, aud irregular mountain rauges and vast stretches of sponged sphagnum or tundra plains. These plains are crossed in every direction by small streams, which take their rise in innumerable lakes. If the inexperienced traveler, tired of the confinement of his boat, leaves her and attempts to walk, he will not get very far before he finds himself plunging and floundering in an impassable morass. Underneath the moss-covered surface the earth has been reduced to a mud like consistency by the constant rain from overhead and the melting ice which forms the base of the thin layer of soil. There are no continuous mountain chains where by seeking the high ridges one may avoid the tuudra, and even on the mountains the dense growth of moisture-holding moss is found at an elevation of 2,000 feet. In such a country the use of a boat for summer traveling is imperative. The native never thiuks of making a journey of any consequence at this season by any other way than by water. At the settlements near the coast the ordinary skin boats and kaiaks of the Eskimo are used, but when we reached the region of the Upper Kowak, where timber was abundant, we found the skin boat had been replaced by boats made of spruce and birch bark. The former material is used extensively in the construction of the large boats used by the women while fishing and for the purpose of general transportation. Lighter canoes of most exquisite design are made of birch bark stretched over frames made of well-seasoned wood. These little boats are from eight to ten feet long by two feet wide at the point of greatest breadth of beam, a little forward of the center of the boat. From here the sides curve to a point at each end. They are undecked except for a short distance forward, where a piece of bark is laid across the bow and secured to the rail on either side. The bark is put on the frame in transverse sections for greater strength and is secured iu place by lashings made of willow bark. The seams of all the bark canoes and boats are made water tight by cementing them with melted spruce gum. The single-bladed paddle is used exclu- sively in the large boats, but in the small canoes both single and double bladed paddles are used. In slioal water, or when keeping close to shore to avoid the current, paddles are discarded and the boats are forced ahead by " poling"; short sticks or the shafts of spears are used for this purpose. The canoes are used exclusively by the hunters, and, although they are very frail and do not weigh NATIVES AT RENDEZVOUS NEAR ICY CAPE, ALASKA. NATIVE KYAK. CEUISE OF THE STEAMER COKWIN, 85 over twenty-five pounds, the natives handle them with such skill that they are seldom injured, and they will fearlessly venture into rapids filled with rocks where the slightest error of judgment would result in destruction to their boats. To keep these boats iu good order it is necessary to have them perfectly water-tight. The seams need constant attention, and this work falls upon the women. We had two canoes with us on our expedition, and whenever we stopped at a fishing village some of the women would haul the boats up on the beach and repair any breaks or stop any leaks which showed themselves by holding a lighted firebrand and a piece of spruce gum together and by blowing vigorously melt the gum sufliciently to apply it to the weak or damaged spot. During the winter season transportation of heavy articles and the movement of families is efiected by means of dog-sleds. The sleds are from six to eight feet long by two to three feet wide. They are made of wood securely lashed together with thongs made of deer or seal skin. Some of the sleds are furnished with handles behind to steer by and rails along the sides, to which is secured the load. The runners are sometimes shod with ivory or bone, but more frequently are left bare and protected with a shoe of ice when in use. The ability to make an ice-shoe which will be serviceable is one of the tests of a good Eskimo hunter. A team of dogs is usually composed of five dogs, but three strong, well-broken animals will drag a heavy load at a very fair speed. The proper management of a dog team is something which seems to be almost impossible for white men to learn, and a native driver is as essential as the team itself if a journey is to be made by dog sled. The dogs are trained to travel long distances without food and are never fed, except at rare intervals, until the day's journey has been accomplished. The driver runs ahead of the dogs and by cries of encouragement induces them to follow him. If the journey to be taken has been performed before and the road is familiar to the dogs, they require no coaxing, but dash away at full speed, anxious to have the work done and receive their reward iu the shape of a meal of dried fish. The harness used on the dogs is very simple. It consists of a few straps so arranged as to bring the strain and weight of the load on the shoulders. The dogs are driven tandem. Much depends on«the condition of the road, the state of the weather, etc., in forming an estimate of the length of a day's journey, but under ordinary circumstances sixty miles a day is reckoned as the average amount of work which a dog team can accomplish. But even this can not be kept up for any great length of time. Their feet get tender and sore and they become peevish and quarrelsome. At such times they are unreliable and almost unmanagable. The smooth surface of the rivers after a light fall of snow has covered the ice is much used by sled parties, but where the meandering course of the stream would lengthen their journey considerably the natives leave the river and take to the rolling land above the timber line. In traveling to and from their winter hunting and trapping grounds the natives make use of well-known routes, and at several points along the banks of the stream A-ta-ta-rok, our guide, pointed out to me a tall pole to which was fastened the form of a bear or fish rudely carved, and informed me that those were guide-posts set up by the natives t^ indicate the points where they mu.st leave the river. Monuments composed of stones were also observed on the tops of several low mountains near the river, having been built by the natives for beacons during the time when tile snow covers the ground and hides all familiar features of the landscape from sight. The snow-shoes of the natives of this region are much longer and of finer workmanship than any I have ever observed at other places in Alaska. They range from three to five and a half feet iu length by five to ten inches in width. The frame is made of one piece of spruce or larch bent into shape when green. The forward end is rounded and the two ends of the piece of wood forming the frame are brought together and lashed with a stout thong of deer-sinew. The front is now turned up a distance equal to about half the width of the shoe. Two pieces of wood are inserted transversely between the sides of the frame about three-quarters of the distance from the rear to the forward end and securely lashed. Stout thongs of bear skin or other strong material are passed around these cross-pieces to make a foot-rest, and the spaces to the rear and in front of the foot-rest are filled up with a very fine but strong netting made of twisted deer-sinew. The method of securing this thread to the frame so as to prevent its being chafed through by contact with the snow is very ingenious. The shoe is attached to the foot by broad toe-straps fastened to the front cross-piece. 86 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER COKWIN. WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE CHASE. In the course of iny investigatious I observed five forms of spears and three of arrows ; the description and uses of which are as follows : Spears : (1) Reindeer; Thrusting.— Shaft of spruce or larch about five feet long, slightly tapering, with head of chipped flint, ivory, or, rarely, jade. (2) Projectile. — Light wooden shaft three and one-half to four feet in length, with short chipped flint or iron head, shot from a bow. (3) Throicing. — Sliaft four and one-half to five feet long, smaller than (1), with barbed ivory or bone head two and one-half inclies long, darted at fish or small game. (4) Bird spear. — Light wooden shaft like (3), with barbed ivory or boue head, rarely curved, and with three ivory or boue prongs fastened in the middle. (5) Bear spear. — Shaft larger than deer spear, with iron or chipped flint head, rarely obsidian or jade. Arrows : (1) Reindeer. — Shaft two and one-half feet long, with long ivory, bone, or chipped flint and, rarely, obsidian head. (2) Bear or other dangerous game. — Shaft larger than (1), with short, sharp-pointed iron or chipped flint head. (3) Bird. — Liyht shaft feathered at small end, with blunt bone or, rarely, stone head. The bow used by the natives is about five feet loug, made of larch and re-enforced with raw- hide or sinew. In order to increase the propulsive power of the arm in throwing spears a flat board is used eighteen inches long and two and one-half inclies wide, having a hole through one end for the finger and its upper surface grooved to steady the weapon. Bird slings. — Made of several oblong i^ieces of ivory one and one-half inches long by one inch thick, having holes in the ends, to which are attached thongs of rawhide or deer-sinew. In practice, the thongs being knotted together so as to leave the pieces of ivory suspended freely at a distance of about two feet from the knot, a kind of "bulas" is formed, which is thrown into a flock of birds with the intention of entangling their wings and rendering their capture easy. _ Snow spectacles. — In order to protect the eyes from the glare of the snow, wooden blinders or spectacles are worn. They are made of soft wood hollowed out to tit over the eyes, and a narrow slit is made in each pair large enough to look through. Traps.— Tha ordinary steel spring trap of commerce is used by all of these tribes, and forms one of the staple articles of trade between them and the traders on the coast. Besides these the natives employ a number of means of capturing animals and birds, some of which are common to all hunters and others which are peculiar to this region. Bear traps are made of very heavy logs, which are so arranged as to fall on the animal when an attempt is made to take the bait. They are clumsy affairs, and the natives confess that they are not very successful in capturing this animal by means of these traps. For smaller game, such as foxes, lynx, beaver, etc., steel traps or figure of- four traps of native make are used. Deer are sometimes driven into the snow-choked gorges of dry river beds and into pits over which a light covering of brush and snow has been laid. Along the sandy beaches of the river I frequently saw a row of small stakes or bushes Bet up, and on inquiring their use was informed that the geese which breed here would not attempt to force their way through this line of stakes, but would follow it uj) until an opening was found, and here a trap would be set. The boys use loops and snares made of deer-sinew fastened to small trees bent down and so arranged that any disturbance of the bait will cause the tree to be released and fly violently upward. By this means hares, ermine, rauskrat, grouse, etc., are taken. SnoiD traps are made of scpiare pieces of snow arranged like a dead-fall. In nearly all these cases the bait is not put into the traj), as the animals soon learn to shun them, but into little snow houses, and the trap is set and concealed in or near the door. Among the articles which come under this head are looi)S of sinew used for catching fish instead of using a hook. In the clear TARTAROK. CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIK 87 water of the upper rivers, where the fish cau be seen lying almost motionless in the quiet pools with their heads turned up-stream, this method of taking fish is employed with varying skill and success by the natives. Implements of special crafts. — The most important article of native domestic economy is the knife. In the past a rude imjilement was made of stone, bone, or ivory, but now iron has replaced the use of the primitive implements to such an extent that only in rare instances could the latter be found. Iron and steel knives are imported into the country from the United States, and he is a very poor hunter who has not purchased one at least of these necessary articles. As a usual thing the larger they are the better. They are woru strapped to the thigh, and are carefully protected from injury from damijuess by a sheath made of hair-seal or deer-skin. In their hands the knife is used eitber as a weapon or a tool ; as a tool it is remarkable what a degree of perfec- tion the natives have reached in its use. Spears, bows, arrows, etc., which require great nicety of finish, are made with the knife alone. The shafts of arrows specially attracted my notice on account of their symmetrical appearance, being as round and smooth as if lathe-turned. Womanh Icnife, made of chipped flint, jade, or sharpened slate, with a wooden or bone handle, is still common among the interior tribes. It is used principally in the work of splitting fish during the fishing season. Drills made of iron or rarely of stone were seen. The point of the drill is inserted in the end of a handle made of soft wood. Drill-bows are made of ivory, bone, or wood, with holes in the ends to which are attached a thong of rawhide or sinew. The upper end of the handle is rounded, and in use is rested against a small stone socket hfild between the teeth. Ice-drill. — A short piece of pointed antler made to be lashed to the end of a shaft. Fire-drills. — A piece of hard wood iu shape like an ordinary drill shaft. This method of obtaining fire is now obsolete, but the operation was performed for me by a very old woman after much labor. Flint-faker. — A short piece of iron, evidently the remains of a knife with a bone handle. The use of iron aud the introduction of fire-arms is doing much to render the use of stone obsolete, and the occupation of chipping flints, which was once pursued with profit by these inland river people and especially by the natives of the Kowak, will soon be entirely gone. Feathering tool. — Made of a small wedge-shaped piece of bone, used for fixing feathers on arrows. Needles. — Steel needles from the United States are used almost entirely. I saw only two specimens of bone needles of native manufacture, one of which was made for me by our guide A-ta-ta-rok. HOUSEHOLD UTENSILS. Under this subdivision I include, for the sake of brevity, several articles which can not properly be classed separately, but which are not, strictly speaking, used exclusively iu the work of the household. Vessels for holding water, cooJcing, etc. — Wooden tubs for boiling fish, meat, etc., in are made of a thin, pliable piece of spruce bent into the shape of a circle aud having a bottom fitted of some- what heavier material. No better idea of the appearance of oue of these tubs can be had than is furnished by an ordinary cheese-box without the cover. The vessel is made watertight by pitch- ing the seams with melted spruce gum. The manuer of cooking food in one of these tubs has already been described. (See Food.) Small bowls for serving food are made by carving them out of some soft wood. During the summer season very neat and serviceable platters are made by bending a piece of birch bark into the required shape and securing it by a few stitches of willow-bark thread. Baskets for carrying fish from the beach to the racks are made by weaving thin splints of willow together. They are very shallow, the native basket-maker apparently not having yet learned to make deep ones. Horn dippers made in one piece of the sknll of the mountaiu slieeji. Used in skimming grease from the surface of water in which food is being cooked and for dishing out the food. 88 CRUISE OP THE STEAMER CORWIN. Ivory dipper. — Carved from fossil ivory, which is common on the Kowak and Selawik Rivers. Used iu dipping up water, bailing out boats, etc. Wooden apoons. — I saw one specimen of a wooden spoon evidently made in imitation of a metal table-spoou which had been seen by the maker ou the coast. Forks. — I saw no forks, but shortly after our advent into the river country one of the natives accompanying our party made a very good imitation of our metal ones, of bone with a wooden handle. This he used, much to the amusement of himself and the other natives of the jiarty. Fire. — Among these natives the flint and steel will probably never be supplanted by the more modern invention of matches, although the latter are used to some extent during the summer season by the coast natives and others who visit the whale-ships. They are not considered as desirable for their uses as the more compact flint and steel. Several plants indigenous to the region furnish an abundant and easily obtained supply of material to make tinder. Among the natives of the interior there are a few old people who have letaiued the art of making fire by the use of the fire drill, but the younger generation ai)pareutly do not practice it. Lamp. — Shallow bowl carved from soap-stone. Used for heating and lighting the winter bouses and for cooking. There are several sizes, but the ones most commonly seen are about seven inches long and four and one-half inches wide, outside measurement. Tbe space carved out is oblong in shape, and there is a margin of about an inch between this space and the edge of the lamp. In use, the hollow space is filled with oil, and moss is placed around the margin to serve as a wick. The lamp produces a dense smoke, but throws out cousiderable heat. OH bags. — For holding oil used in lamp and in food. They are made of the entire skin of the hair-seal. A small aperture is left, through which the oil is poured when wanted. This is closed by a cord of deer skin or sinew. Stune ai-es. — Two specimens of stone axes were seen, one of which was jade, and the other a dark brown stone of slaty nature. Neither was hafted. They were exhibited as curiosities with a view to sale to our party. Ou the lower river I saw one stone adz hafted and iu use. The blade was four inches long by two wide, wedge-shaped, and had been chipped to its present shape. The handle was a short piece of wood, to the end of which the adz was lashed with a rawhide thong. PERSONAL ADORNMENT. The hideous custom so prevalent among the males of the coast Eskimo of wearing "labrets," disks or knobs of stone or glass, in incisions made iu the lower lip is rare among the natives of the interior. A few of the old men had incisions in their lips; but either they were too poor to have them or the custom is dying out, for 1 saw. very few labrets on the Kowak River. Small pieces of beautifully polished jade, of a light green color, were seen on several occasions and are greatly prized by the owners. They are worn as pendants ou strings around the neck. As a mark of special favor one of our native guides, who was the fortunate owner of one of these charms, allowed me to wear it on my watch guard for a while, but I could not induce him to sell it. The women tattoo the chin with three vertical lines on arriving at the age of pubertj' and increase the number of lines after marriage. I observed on several occasions women whose skins were marked with a broad mark of soot under each eye, but I could not ascertain whether this was for ornament or the observance of some custom in regard to their superstitious belief. All I could learn from An(lr(5 on this subject was that they marked themselves in this manner at certain times because "they liked to." Ear-rings made of bright-colored beads strung on sinew are common with the women, and mostof the younger girls have their hair neatly braided and the ends wrapped with strings of small beads. I observed mauy of the women with finger-rings made of brass or iron, and a few with bracelets made of a piece of rawhide on which was strung a large bead, a brass button, or a round piece of ivory. The ornamentation of the clothing is not so elaborate as that of some of the coast tribes, and rarely shows anything more than a narrow fringe of fur around the edge of the "parka." All these tribes are universally addicted to the use of tobacco, and the pipe is always an article upon which cousiderable work iu the way of ornament is spent. There were seen so many GROUP OF TCHUKCHI NATIVES, INDIAN POINT, SIBERIA. YARANGA AND PLOVER BAY TCHUKCHlS, SIBERIA. CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 89 shapes and styles of this one article that it would be impossible to give a description of all. I will, then, take the ones most commonly seen as examijles: The bowl is made of iron, brass, ivory, or stone, cylindrical, with its top flanged and two lugs ou the lower end, over which the lashing passes which secures it to the stem. The bore of the bowl is from one-fourth to one-half inch iu diameter and holds, when full, about a thimblefuU of very finely pulvei'ized tobacco. The stem is from twelve to eighteen inches in length, and is made by splitting a branch of alder or soft piece of wood in two and making a groove in each part. The two parts are then put together so that the grooves lie opposite each other and are securely lashed iu this i)osition with sinew. The women's pipe is longer than that of the men. Each is furnished with a short steel or ivory pricker for clearing the bowl when it gets foul. FESTIVALS, GAMES, AND AMUSEMENTS. Living as they do in isolated settlements during the time that they are forced to lead a life of inactivity, these nomadic races have few opportunities for the observance of any very elaborate festal or ceremonial rites. The absence of any large council-houses or Icashimas of the Russians, at any of the sites of winter habitations which we visited, naturally leads to the supijosition that among these tribes the custom of inaugurating extensive feasts, in which native theatricals, story- telling, and exchange of presents form a part so common among the natives elsewhere iu Alaska, is not followed. During the short summer months those of the interior natives who have furs to barter, or who care to make the journey to the coast for pleasure only, descend the rivers and joiunn the festi\i- ties which annually take place at a rendezvous of all the natives of the coast and interior in this region. At such times wrestling, foot races, and feats of strength and agility occupy the attention of the young men and boys most of the time; and frequently a kayak race and contests between the hunters in throwing the spear from a boat interest the older ones. Dancing, singing, and story-telling also are iudidged in on special occasions. (See description of dance in narrative.) I observed several groups of natives, mostly belonging on the coast, gambling in the camp at Hotham Inlet, and they were playing with ordinary cards. The children of all these tribes have playthings given them by their indulgent parents, and the sight of a little girl fondling a doll made of wood and clothed with miniature Eskimo clothing was frequent. The boys play with small spears and bows and arrows. When they have arrived at the age of eight or ten they are given a canoe or kayak just large enough for them to paddle about iu near the shore. Notation and method of reckoning time, etc. — Time in days is reckoned by "sleeps," and this system of notation extends to estimates of distances. It thus happens that a certain number of "sleeps" may mean so many days of time or the distance usually traveled in so many days' journey. As a day's journey during the winter is equal to about three in summer, errors iu estimating dis- tances are of frequent occurrence, unless the traveler has it fully understood which "sleep" is meant. There seems to be no extensive system of numeration. The native vocabulary contains, as far as 1 could learn, only the first ten cardinal numbers. For the expression of numbers greater thau ten recourse is had to the fingers and toes, bits of wood or stone, and when this method fails, "a great many," "too many to count," is shown by a handful of sand. Population. — In consequence of their nomadic life it is impossible to obtain a census of these tribes by actual count. The following estimates, based upon carefully prepared data, represent as nearly as it is possible to obtain the actual numbers of the natives of this region. This estimate includes all the inhabitants of the Noitoc region in the north, the Kowak in the center, and the Belawik in the southern portion of the section of country described in this report : Noitoc River, 350; Kowak River, 275; Selawik, 300— total, 925. Plate I.— Imlpements of the Chase, Natives of Northwestern Alaska. 1. Holder for throwing spears, one-third size. 2. Snow speclacleB, natural size. 3. Section of 2 through A B. 4. Spear-head of ivory for deer, natural size. 5. Arrow-head of ivory pronged for birds, natural size. C. Spear-head of chipped flint, natural size. 7. Arrow-head of chipped flint. 8. Blunt arrow-head of ivory or bone for birds, natuiral size. 9. Spear-head of polished jade; very rare. 10. Seal .spear with detachable ivory head, one-sixth size. 11. Bird spear with prongs of ivory, one-sixth size. 90 Ethnology Plate I. Plate II.— Implements of the Chase (continued), Natives of Northwestern Alaska. 2 > Stone fish-hook X 2. 3. Snare for flying liirds, one third size. 4. Ivory fish-hook, natiiriil size. 5. Fish-knife of slate, oue-tliird size. 6. Detachahle spear-head of ivory, one-fifth size. 7. Larch bow, re-enforced with sinew. 92 Ethnology Plate II. Plate III.— Trausportation and Locomotion, Natives of Northwestern Alaska. 1. Shoe of deer-skin with walrus-skin sole. 2. Shoe of walrus-skin with wlialo-skin sole. 3. Boot of hair seal skin. 4. Boot of deer skin ornamented with fur. 5. Shoe of fawn-skin. ti. Inner shoe or sock of tanned buckskiu. 7. Snow-shoe. 8. Birch-bark canoe (Kowak River). 9. Sled (Kowak River). 10. Sled with ivory shoe (coast natives). 94 Ethnology Plate III. ^. ;^f^^ Jf^ 10 Platr IV. — PiPKs, Natives of Northwestern Alaska. 1. Priinitivo pipe without detachable howl, oue-foiirth size. 2. Pipe, split Rtom ami stone bowl, one-fourth size. ;!. Pipe, split stem and brass bowl, one- fourth size. 4. Pipe, carved from soft wood, ivory mouth-piece, one-fourth size. 5. Pipe, split stem and Jadeite bowl, s eel jirickcr, one-f()\irth size. C. Woman's pipe, brass bowl and split stem, one-fourth size. 7. Woman's pipe, inlaid stone and ivory bowl, split stem, one-fourth size. 8. Modern pipe, stem made of l)rass cartridge-shell, wood and rubber mouth-piece, one-fourth size. 9. Modern l)ipc, brass bowl, one-fourth size. 10. Modern i)ipo, brass bowl, stem made of cartridge-shells, one-fourth size 11. Inlaid stone and ivory bowl, with stem like 8, one-fourth size. 12. Modern pipe, stem like 10, ancient jadeite bowl, one-fourth size. 13. Modern pipe, brass bowl, slender split stem, one-fourth size. 96 Ethnology Plate IV. 1^^^ ^=^ 12 3 I II II J Plate V. — Labrets and Articles of Personal Adornment, Natives of Northwestern Alaska. 1. Stone "pluj;" labret, coiiimoD, natural size. 2. Jade "pliif;" laljret, ran; natural size. 3. Ivory and colored glass labret, rare, natural size. 4. Uracelet (woman's) with button and glass bead, natural size. 5. Ornament lor the nose. 6. Ear-rinf;s, dillerent-colored glass beads. 7. Inlaid ivory and whalebone seal, natural size. 8. Carved ivory handle. 98 Ethnology Plate V. EXPLORATION OF THE KOWAK UIVER, ALASKA. NOTES ON THE NATURAL HISTORY AND RESOURCES. SECOND ASSISTANT ENGINEER S. B. McLENEGAN, U. S. Revenue Marine. 1884. 99 ORDERS TO ASSISTANT ENGINEER McLENEGAN. \J. S. Revenue Marine Steamer Corwin, Kotzehue Sound, July 8, 1884. Sir: You are hereby detailed to accompany tbe expedition about to be sent froui this vessel under the command of Lieut. J. G. Cautwell for the exploration of the Kowak Kiver. lu addition to any assistance which may be required of you by Lieutenant Cantwell in surveying the river, it will be your special duty to collect all the specimens and data possible in regard to the fauna and flora of the country, tfie character of the adjacent region, and in genernl all such information as will, in your opinion, be of value in the compilation of an exhaustive report of the exploration. Lieutenant Cantwell will atiord you every facility for the performance of the above mentioned duty consistent with the rapid advancement of the expedition ; but you will at all times be subject to Ills orders as to the time requisite for this purpose. I can not too seriously call your attention to the importance of preserving in your relations with Lieutenant Cantwell the utmost harmony of action. Should, however, any difficulty arise it will be your duty to waive the matter until your return to this vessel, when it will be properly adjudicated. Any deflection from these instructions will meet with my severest condemnation. Besides the above enumerated duties you will collect as many specimens of the birds and fishes peculiar to this section as possible, carefully preserving the same, and turning them over to the proper authorities on your return. With best wishes for the successful terminatiou of the expedition, I am, very respectfully, M. A. Healy, Captain, (J. S. Revenue Maritie. Second Assistant Engineer S. B. MoLenegan, U. S. Revenue Marine. 101 LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. U. S. Revrnue Steamek Coewin, San Francisco, Gal, November 1, 18S4. Sir: Iu obedience to your order dated Arctic Ocean, July 8, 1884, detailing uie for duty in connection with the exploration of the Kowak River, I have the honor to submit herewith the following notes. In justice to myself I would respectfully state, in view of the circumstances under which I accompanied the expedition, that I was totally unprepared for an undertaking so comprehensive and important. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, Saml. B. McLenegan, Second Assistant Engineer, V. S. R. M. Capt. M. A. Healy, Commanding Revenue Steamer Cortcin. 103 THE KOWAK RIVER. Opening inland by a narrow entrance from tliat great body of water in the Northwestern Arctic Ocean known as Kotzebne Sound is a sheet of liesli water called Hotham Inlet. For the most part this inlet is extremely shallow. The entrance is guarded by vast mud-tlats and sand-bars which are barely covered with water. The inlet is about ihirty-five miles in length and from four to eight miles in width. It has a general trend from southeast to northwest. Its water is not intluenced by tides, but a prolonged southeast wind causes a low stage. Passing through the entire length of llotham Inlet and into the waters of Kotzebne Sound is a well-defined river channel. The sea entrance to this is somewhat difficult to find. A vessel drawing from one to two fathoms can enter at the ordinary stage of water. In the inlet ijroper the channel has from two to four fathoms of water, and is comparatively easy to trace. As we approach the head of the inlet the water gradually shoals. Near the lower or southern extremity a river known amongst the natives as the "Koownk" enters the inlet through a large delta. It is very shallow here, and shoals covered with from two to four feet of water extend far out into the inlet. In crossing the bar it is somewhat difficult to find a channel of sufficient depth. When fairly between the banks of the river, however, there is an abundance of water. This varies from two to five fathoms. The delta is a low tract of land covered with a series of marshes, lakes, lagoons, and a thick growth of willows. Above the delta, which extends for about ten miles, the river widens out into a stately stream, on which large steamers might safely ride. The existence of this river was undoubtedly known to (Japtain Beechy as far back as 182G and 1827. Since his time, however, little or nothing was learned concerning it, except from the reports of Surgeon John Simpson, E, N., in 1848. Capt. E. E. Smith informs the writer that he ascended that river a few miles in the year 1874. During the summer of 1883 Lieut. George M.Stoney, U. S. Navy, then a passenger on the revenue steamer Corwiti, in a boat manned by Captain Healy from the Conchies crew, went about fiftj' nn'les up the river. The word Koo or Ku in the dialect of nearly all these northern Eskimos signifies river, and the suffix icfd; pule, or bale means large or big. Hence the native meaning of Kowak or Kiiiik, as some authorities spell the name, is Big River. For a distance of fifty miles above the delta the adjacent region is a level stretch of tundra. Along the river banks, and extending a short distance in, there is a sparse growth of timber consisting principally of spruce. Above this point there is a gradual change into a hilly, broken, and partly timbered country. In this section we find the coal belt of this region. During the spring freshets a very high stage of water prevails. Along the banks and among the adjacent timber evidences are everywhere visible of the havoc wrought bj- the ice. Large trees are uprooted and smaller ones are ridden down. Great furrows are ploughed in the banks, and masses of earth are undermined and carried away. Along the lower river there are several miles of ice cliffs similar to those at Escholtz Bay. These rise to a height of two hundred feet above the river. Detached masses are constantly falling into the river, rendering a near approach 105 106 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. exceediiij^ly dangerous. At tliis jjoint a strong current sweeps directly under the clifls, and it is necessary for purposes of navigation to keep well out in tbe stream. Masses of earth and quantities of timber are being undermined and precipitated into the river. The source of the vast shoals in Ilotham Inlet is now apparent, and it seems probable that in time the inlet will cease to exist. After passing through the foot hills the river enters a mountainous region. On either bank the country has a gradual slope from the mountains. The ranges, which are somewhat broken, rise from two to three thousand feet above the sea. For a distance of fully 250 miles there are from two to five fathoms of water in the channel. Above this point the river shoals and the current becomes very strong. During high water the channel is obscure in places; at a lower stage it is well detined and its navigation comparatively easy. In regard to the headwatersof the river the writer can not speak from observation. The natives say that the current is very strong and that it is impossible to stem it. The channel is said to have many dangerous rocks, and frequent portages are necessary to avoid rapids. It is said that a portage can be made to an unknown river flowing into the Yukon. It is also supposed that a short portage can be made to the Colville River, which flows into the Arctic near Point Barrow. There are many interesting problems to solve in Arctic Alaska. It will not be tbe work of weeks or even mouths, but years of arduous and incessant labor will be required for the success- ful accomplishment of this duty. TIMBER. The valley of the Kowak above the delta is pleasantly diversified with forests and plains, thus unfolding to the eye new scenes of quiet beauty as we journey upstream. The forests are made up of white spruce, birch, poplar, and cottonwood. The timber shows more or less climatic repression. The spruce seldom attains a diameter exceeding eighteen inches and is stunted in growth. This species forms the great bulk of the timber in this region. FISH. The river abounds in fish, among which the salmon is the most common and desirable species for native use. Coregonus, jiickerel, grayling, and trout are frequently seen ; the latter two species taking the hook readily, formed an agreeable change from our monotonous diet of ship stores. The salmon run begins in July and lasts through until the end of the spawning season. During this time the natives are busy laying up a supply of this fish, which constitutes their chief means of subsistence during a portion of the long winter months. In order to arrive at any definite conclusion as to the value of the fish product of this region it would be necessary to obtain observations covering a series of years, as the duration of the run and quantity of fish entering the river varies greatly from year to year. MINERAL EESOUECES. COAL. In the lower river region, about seventy-five miles above the month, we found extensive deposits of coal. Our attention was first directed to this matter by the large masses of conglom- erate rock along the river banks. Wherever this formation is found we have discovered deposits of coal. The coal belt in this region is about thirty miles in width, and it passes through a series of high, rolling, and partly timbered hills. In many places the veins crop out along the water's edge, and during the spring freshets large quantities are detached and washed down into the bed of the river. The outcrop is seldom free from slaty impurities. Notwithstanding this, we obtained a uantity of remarkably pure specimens. It is jet-black in color, and of a soft, friable texture. CEUISB OF THE STEAMER COKWIN. 107 All the coal in tbis region is of a lignite composition, which is the most recent formation of the coal series. In many respects the product resembles that of the well-known vein near Cape Lisburne. The latter is undoubtedly the northern termination of the Kowak River vein, and it affords an interesting study in tracing the coal belt of Alaska. Below the coal formation we found extensive deposits of fire clay. This material is used to a limited extent among the natives for the manufacture of rude earthenware. The deposits of clay existing here are mostly of a fatty nature, which is a serious objection to its use. When subjected to heat the shrinkage is apt to cause a fracture. The addition of sand, however, will in a measure remedy this. GOLD. In regard to the existence of gold in this region there seems to be no doubt. In almost every stream, large and small, we found the color of gold, and if this be an indication this precious metal undoubtedly exists in some sections of this country. Gold never exists in the secondary or coal- bearing formation, hence we may look for it in vain along the lower river. Admitting its existence in northern Alaska, the question arises whether it can be proQtably mined. Since the acquisition of the Territory the southeastern portion has been well prospected. More recently miners have penetrated the vast region drained by the Yukon, and many have journeyed down that river to the sea. Thus far the results obtained have not been flattering, and but little encouragement is offered for further work in this region. Miners, while they admit the existence of gold there, assert that it can not be mined at a profit. The character of the country, its remoteness from a base of supplies, the long winters and the short summers, are detrimental to inining of any description. It is possible that with the richest ores quartz mining might be successfully carried on. Again, with large quantities of free gold, placer mining might prove remunerative, but as far as known at the present time nothing of the kind is to be found in Alaska. It is not probable that the experience of others will deter miners from prospecting there in the future. It is believed, however, that if the situation were better known miners might save both time and money and avoid inevitable disappointment. GEEEN STONE. Among the natives of Arctic Alaska there is found a peculiar green stone. In former times large quantities were used for the jjurpose of making axes, spear and arrow heads, as well as ornaments and articles of domestic use. The stone thus employeil was of various shades of green, some being dark and opaque, while others were light and translucent. There seemed to be no uniformity in this resjiect, but the latter varieties were not found in abundance. The stone has always been greatly esteemed by the natives. The greater jiortion of the green- stone implements found among them at the present time are undoubtedly very old, and have been handed down as heirlooms from one generation to another. The stone has been popularly called malachite, jade, and various other names, none of which terms are correct. All the finer translucent varieties are nep.'irite. This is a hard, compact mineral, generally of a dark green color. Among certain races it was worn as a charm for the cure of kidney diseases, from which fact the name is derived. Large quantities of nephrite were brought from Peru and Mexico in the shape of carved ornaments at the time of the Spanish conquest. For many years attempts have been made to find the source of this stone in Alaska. The natives themselves apparently know very little concerning it, which fact indicates the ancient origin of the nephrite implements. Indeed we have every reason to believe that they are the work of a past generation. The existence of this stone is well known to the natives, but they are reluctant to give any direct information concerning it. At a distance of 120 mdes above the mouth of the river a range of mountains was pointed out to us in which the stone was said to exist. The range, which was rather isolated, towered consid- erably above the surrounding mountains. It is about thirty miles in length and has a general 108 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER COR WIN. treud from east to west. The highest mountains, as first remarked, are about three thousand feet above the sea. It appears that these mountains have never been visited by the natives. There are many superstitions connected with them, and in consequence of this fact none of their number could be induced to accompany us as guides. On the eastern end of the range there are cliffs of serpentine rock. This is of a dusky green color. Serpentine has a pecular mottled appearance, not unlike a serpent's skin, from which fact it derives its name. It is quite soft and can be easily polished. Among the river natives were found two or three axes of this material. These were all rude affairs, however, and bore no resemblance to the old nephrite implements. Near the western end of the range we found quantities of a light green rock. This is very hard and compact, and bears no resemblance to the serpentine formation. The exact nature of this rock is unknown. It resembles jade in color, but lacks the granular structure. It lacks the translucent nature of nephrite, although some specimens exhibited this peculiarity to a certain extent. The stone is possibly an imperfect nephrite. The latter is never found in quantities — generally in " pockets" only— although nothing of the kind came under our observation. Nephrite was undoubtedly obtained in these mountains. The exact place, however, is unknown to the present generation of natives. I am indebted to Mr. W. IT. Melville, of the U. S. Geological Survey, for analysis of rock, and other favors, for which I desire to return thanks. THE FUR TRADE. In the Kowak Eiver region the fur trade is of local importance only. The few hundred skir)s which are annually brought down to the coast are comparatively insignitiuant in valu<', and in the end are productive of more evil than good to the native inhabitants. It is impossible to gather any statistics showing the value of the production. It is believed, however, that the annual product does not exceed ten thousand dollars in value. The most valuable peltry to be obtained in this region is the silver-gray fox. The skin is worth about ten dollars in trade to the natives, but in the San Francisco market it is worth irom two to three times that amount. The beaver is found sparingly here, aud the fur, although in demand, has not a high value. The peltry can be obtained for about a dollar in trade. The land otter is found more or less commonly throughout the interior. The fur is justly esteemed in the market, aud by many it is considered equal to the fur-seal. The fur is thi(!ker aud heavier than the latter and certainly much more serviceable. It can be obtained for about two dollars in trade. The marten is found abundantly in the mountain districts. In former times it was one of the most important and valuable skins in the market. At the present time, owing to the caprice of fashion, there is little demand for it. It is worth about one dollar in trade. In aihlitiou to those mentioned, the red, white, and cross fox, bear, wolf, lynx, and reindeer are found abundantly in this region, aud their skins are a staple article of trade. There are no tradnig stations in this region. The bulk of the production is brought down to the shores of Kotzebue Sound, aud a market is found on board the numerous vessels that visit this region. There is an excellent opportunity for the establisliment of a trading station at this point, and the enterprise would undoubtedly prove remunerative. Under the present lack of system the trade is injurious and demoralizing to the natives. There are certain furs which can not be obtained except for rifles or whisky. Large quantities of both were brought into Kotzebue Sound during the past summer by the Diomede and Capo Prince of Wales natives, who obtained them on the Sibcrriau coast. The sooner the limited demand for rifles can be legitimately supplied the sooner will the horrors of the whisky traffic cease. EXPLORATION OF THE KOWAK RIVER, ALASKA. ORNITHOLOGICAL NOTES. SECOND ASSISTANT ENGINEER S. B. McLENEGAN, U. S. Revenue Marine. 1884. 109 INTRODUCTORY LETTER. The territory drained by the Kowak River comprises a portion of Alaska lying north of the Arctic Circle, and is a region heretofore nnknown to esploreis. With the excej)tion of the immediate vicinity of the river mouth, the entire region is mountainous. Forests of spruce, white birch, poplar, and cottonwood are found along the river banks, and the open portions are covered with a luxuriant growth ot vegetation. The following ornithological notes, collected during a reconnaissance of the river, are incom- plete. Inasmuch as all, or nearly all, the birds are migratory during the winter months, the discovery of new species was not to be expected. It is believed, however, that the present paper will give a good idea of bird life iii that region. Other species will undoubtedly be added to the list when further research is made. *Tlie Strigidie, Falconidiv,, Hcolopacidie, and Anatidai, enumer- ated in the present paper, are not a complete list. In certain instances where doubt existed, and no specimens were obtained, the bird has been excluded from the list. The geographical distribution of several species has been enlarged, and in other cases the northern limit has been established. The ornithology of Alaska is far from complete, and it is believed that any addition will be welcomed by naturalists. Samuel B. McLenegan, Assistant Engineer, U. S. Revenue Marine. San Francisco, Cal., October 31, 1884. • 111 BIRDS OF THE KOWAK RIVER. TUEDID^. THRUSHES. 1. Hylocichla allciae Baird [3].* The Gray-cheeked Thrush. Among the tangled and almost impenetrable forests of tlie interior we often hear the sound of sweet melody. As we stop almost involuntarily and listen to the clear, sweet tones our tired frame seems quickened into a new life. Like the weary traveler who kneels over the clear spring to quench his thirst iu the cool waters below, we feel revived. The feeble pulse becomes stronger, the eye becomes brighter, and we listen with bated breath to the strange melody in the forest. To one uuacquainted with this charming songster it would bo difficult to describe him. Although clad in a plain coat, the thrush has no rival among the feathered choristers. From the inner shores of Hotham Inlet, where the willow and alder bushes extend to the water's edge, throughout the region of the Kowak River the thrush is an abuudant species. It arrives in this latitude early in June, and during the mating season the forests resound with its melody. The nest, a loosely constructed affair, is generally placed in a low bush and contains five eggs. After the young birds appear the thrush is seldom heard, and the song is reduced to a single note. Later in the season the thrush becomes silent, and early in September it leaves for the south. 2. Merula migratoiia {Linn.) Sw. and Rich. [7]. The American Kobin. To one who is familiar with the robin in the lower latitudes, how strangely out of place does he appear in the dreary regions of the north ! What memories are awakened on hearing the familiar strain, and how readily does the mind wander back to the more pleasant scenes and sur- roundings of the lower latitudes! Throughout the timbered portion of this region the robin, although not an abundant species, is a regular summer resident. It seldom visits the tide-water coast in this latitude. I saw a pair at the head of Hotham Inlet in August, but it is doubtful whether it breeds there, as the shelter is hardly sufficient. It undoubtedly ranges throughout northern Alaska, and in the wooded in- terior it rears its youug far above the Arctic Circle. PARID^. TITMICE. 3. Parua cinctua Bodd. [44]. The Siberian Chickadee. This active little wood sprite is more or less common throughout the wooded interior. The chickadee is one of the few species that brave the Arctic winter. Its enlivening presence does much to relieve the dreariness of the forest. It seldom or never approaches the sea-shore in this latitude. The absence of its natural home, the trees, excludes it from the coast region. • The nomenclatare is that of Mr. R. Rldgway'a " Nomenclature of North Ajuericaa Birds," Balletin No. 21 of the U. S. National Museum. H. Mis. G02 8 113 114, CRUISE OF THE STEAMEK COR WIN. 4. Parus hudsonicua Fors/. [45]. ITrnsoNiAN Chickadee. Like the preceding, this species is a permanent resident in the wooded interior. I have often watched this busy little worker, ever cheerful and active, as it plays hideand seek among the tall spruce trees; but never finding it in my heart to raise the deadly gun. How strange it is that it should prefer the cheerless regions of the north, enduring its cold and famine, to the more pleasant scenes in the lower latitudes. But we are ever reminded that He feedeth the sparrows, and not one falleth to the ground without his notice. STLVICOLID.^. WARBLERS. 5- Helminthophaga celata (Say.) Baird. [86]. The Orange-Crowned Warbler. This warbler is qnite common in the Kowak Eiver region. During the early part of July these birds were apparently numerous along the river ; but about the middle of August not an individual was seen. It nests in the thick bushes on the banks of the river, and, like many of the smaller birds, it leaves very early in the fall. 6. Dendrceca lestiva (Gmel.) Baird. [93]. The Summer Yellow Bird. Throughout northern Alaska, especially along the level stretches of tundra and among the bushy tracts lying along the river banks, this handsome little warbler is found in abundance. The alder and willow-lined shores of Hotham Inlet and the adjacent region afford a congenial haunt for these birds. This is the only locality in which they approach the sea-shore in this latitude. 7. Dendrceca coronata {Linn.) Gray. [95]. The Yellow-Rump Warbler. Unlike the preceding, the Yellow-Rump is found exclusively in the wooded interior, and lis appearance on the sea coast may be regarded as accidental. I saw three specimens only of the present species, and I am inclined to think that it is an uncommon resident in this region. 8. Dendrceca striata {Forst.) Baird. [IDl]. The Black-Poll Warbler. The Black-Poll, like its preceding relative, is confined chiefly to the wooded interior. Occasional specimens are seen on the shores of Hotham Lilet, where the dwarf alder ofters some attraction. It is more abundant than the preceding, and undoubtedly breeds in this region. 9. Myiodioctes pusillus ( Wih.) lip. [125]. The Black-Capped Yellow Warbler. Like its relative, the Yellow Warbler, the present species is more or less common in the Kowak River region. The Black-Gap is seldom found in the wooded interior. Among the bush-covered lowlands, or even on the open stretches of tundra, it is an abundant species. It is chiefly inland in distribution; and according to my observation it is very uncommon along the coast. LANIID.E. SHRIKES. 10. LauiuB boreali8 rieiU. [14-]. The Great Northern Shrike. The Northern Shrike, although seldom or never found in abundance in any locality, was noted on several occasions, and specimens were obtained. The present region is the highest latitude in which the shrike has been obtained in Alaska; and it adds considerably to the bird's known range. I saw several pair of shrikes along the river; and although no nests were obtained, the bird undoubtedly breeds in this region. HIRUNDINIDiE. SWALLOWS. 11. Hlrundo erythrogastra iJorfrf. [154]. The Barn Swallow. What a pleasant surprise to the traveler iu these northern regions to meet his old friend, the swallow ! How easily does the mind wander back to the scenes of other days, and recall the de- light with which we welcomed this harbinger of spring! Throughout the present region the Barn Swallow is a common species. Among the deserted winter huts of the natives I found it nesting in abundance. After the nesting season we fiud it everywhere along the river, or skimming over the marshy sections lying on either side. The latter part of August these birds collect in flocks and leave for the southern climes. CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 115 12. Tachycineta blcolor (Vieille) Cahan. [155]. The White-bellied Swallow. Along the entire river, wherever the banks aiford the proper nesting place, this species is found in abundance. This little swallow, skimming over the water and darting hither and thither in search of insect prey, is a vsight which must interest the nio.st indifferent lover of nature. The swallow arrives here early in June, and nests towards the close of the same month. I think that both this and the preceding species are found in every part of the interior north of the Circle. FRINGILLID^. PIISrCHES. 13. iBgiothus canesceus exllipes (Cones) Itidgtv. [178a]. The WhiteRumped Redpoll. Throughout this portion of Alaska, especially along the level stretches of tundra, or among the dense thickets bordering on the river, this is a very common species. Both this and the fol- lowing species are permanent residents in these latitudes. During the severe months of winter, however, there is frequently a partial migration. The White-Rump nests wherever found in this region. The nest is generally placed upon a concealed tuft of grass, and usually contains four eggs. 14. .Xlglotlius linaria (Linn.) Calan. [179]. The Common Redpoll. Like its relative just mentioned, the Redpoll is a widely distributed species. In the present region, however, it is more uncommon than the preceding. The range and general characteristics of the Redpoll are essentially the same as those of the preceding species. No nests were found in the Kowak region, although this bird undoubtedly breeds there. 15. Plectrophanes nivalis (Lirtw.) il/eyec [18G]. The Snow Buntlng. In the desolate regions of the far north, and doubtless on lands yet undiscovered, the Snow Bunting is a summer resident. It is never fouud in a timbered district, but on the vast plains of tundra; on the barren hill-tops and rugged mountains we find it imparting life to the desolate landscape. The Snow Bunting is found to a limited extent only in the Kowak region. I have never seen the nest here. It is much more abundant on the coast than in the interior. 16. Centrophanes lapponicus (Linn.) Caban. [187]. The L.\pland Loxgspur. The Longspur is one of the most abundant species in the present region. On the moss-covered hills or the vast plains of tundra we find it in the greatest abundance. During the mating season the Longspur is one of the few musical birds in these latitudes, and its handsome form and lively notes impart much life to the otherwise desolate regions. It has much of the sunny disposition and exuberance of song peculiar to the bobolink, and its habits are almost exactly the same. It reaches this latitude early in June. The nest is generally placed on a tuft of grass or a sheltered knoll. It is a loosely-constructed affair, consisting princi- pally of grass, and usually' contains four grayish-brown eggs. 17. Zonotricbia gambeli intermedia Ridcjw. [207a]. The Intermediate White-Crowned Spabrow. Among the bushy tracts along the river banks the White Crown is a common summer resi- dent. It is one of the earliest spring arrivals in this latitude. The snow has scarcely left the thickets, or the young buds openetl to the genial warmth of spring, before our friend has arrived from the lower latitudes. This species takes a deservedly high rank among the feathered choristers; and during the days succeeding its arrival the notes can be heard on every hand. The nest of the White Crown is generally placed in a bush, or sometimes a tall weed is selected for this purpose. I have found the nest and young early in July ; but a month later the nest is deserted. 18. Zonotrichia coronata (Pall.) Bairrf [ .'08]. The Golden-Crowned Sparrow. On the inner shores of Hotham Inlet, among the dense thickets of alder, the Golden Crown is a sparing summer resident. It is generally found in company with the preceding species, which, however, largely outnumbers this. I have never seen the nest in this hititude, although the bird undoubtedly breeds here. 116 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 19. Spizella montana {Fnrxl.) Itidgtr. [210]. TiiK Tree Sparkow. Oue of the earliest arrivals iu northern Alaska is the Tree Sparrow. Long before the snow has disappeared from its haunts, or the young buds have begun to swell, our little friend has reached its northern home, and with bustling activity makes its arrangements for the season. Without wasting any time in musical cfl'orts he secures a mate, and soon the pair is busily engaged in the duties of the season. Notwithstanding his name, the Tree Sparrow seldom or never resorts to the forest. It is found almost invariably iu the bushy thickets, or even iu the more open sections of the country. It is very common in the Kotzebue Sound region, and is equally abundant throughout the interior. Although of limited musical power, its familiar form imparts life to the otherwise desolate por- tions of the country. 20. Pasaerella iliaca (Merrcm) Gm. [235]. The Fox-Colorkd Sparrow. Among the feathered choristers of the northern forests we sometimes hear one whose clear, sweet tones rise with distinctness above the others. As the clear notes of the leader's violin are heard in an orchestra, so, too, are the notes of the Fox Sparrow heard in the orchestra of nature. While it has not the wild cxhileratiug melody of the thrush, it is more soothing and restful, and it dispels our sense of loneliness in the desolate forest. In the far interior the Fox Sparrow is not an abundant species, but along the alder-lined shores of Hothara Inlet and the lower river region they are very common. In this latitude the Fox Sparrow arrives early iu June, and soon after the cares of the season begin. After the young birds appear, our friend, absorbed in its new duties, is seldom heard. The latter part of August, when the chilly winds and lengthening nights foretell the coming winter, the Fox Si^arrow, along with many of the smaller birds, prepares to return to his southern home. lOTERIDiE.- BLACKBIRDS. 21. Scolecophagus ferrugineus {Gm.) Swains [473]. The Rusty Blackbird. In the Kowak River region, and doubtless throughout Arctic Alaska, the Rusty Blackbird is a common species. The sight of our chattering, roUickiug friend in these far northern regions carries the mind back to more pleasant scenes and surroundings. The eye misses the budding trees, the sprouting fields of grain, the waving corn, and soon the reality of our position comes home to us. The blackbird seems to lose much of his careless good-nature here, and we miss the chattering medley of song so familiar in his southern home. We seldom find him in the spruce forests. He seems to have a preference for the more open birch timber, or the bushy tracts lying along the river banks. It nests here early in June, and about the first of September the birds collect in small flocks and leave for their southern home. CORVID^. CROWS, RAVENS. 22. Conmscorax carnivorus (/3flc/r.) iiirfffic. [280]. The American Raven. The above-named species is more or less commou in the present region. Unlike its kind on the Aleutian Islands, it is extremely shy, and is seldom found in the vicinity of the native settlements. The crow nests in the spruce forests throughout the river country ; but as we approach the sea-coast it is much less abundant. After the nesting season is over, and the young birds are fully fledged, the crow is found abun- dantly along the exposed sandbars in the river. There, iu company with the gulls, it indulges its fish-eating propensities to the fullest extent. It is abundant, also, in the vicinity of the deserted fishing camps of the natives, where it performs very necessary scavenger service. Although the crow is considered a permanent resident of Arctic Alaska, there is a partial migration during the severe months of winter. 23. Pica rustlca hudsonica (5co^).) Baird 12W)]. The Black-billed Maopie. One specimen in the collection from Hotham Inlet or Kowak River. CRUISE OF THE STEAMER COR WIN. 117 24. PerisoreuB canadensis fumifrons Riihjw. [297 fc]. The Smokv- fronted Jav. Ill the central and soutbern portions of Alaska the jay is an abundant species; but its range within the Arctic Circle seems to be very limited. In the present regiou but three specimens were seen, and I am inclined to think that it is very rare in this latitude. It is found principally in the bushy growth along the river, in which place they exercise a species of kukluxism among the smaller birds. It is very shy, and I found it diflflcult to ajiproach within gunshot. I have never seen it in the Kotzebue Sound region, and its occurrence on the sea-coast may be regarded as accidental. PICIDiE WOODPECKERS. 25. Picus pubescens iiHH. [3G1]. The Downy Woodpecker. Although common in the central i)ortions of Alaska, in the Kowak region I found this a very rare species. The only specimens coming under my notice were about three hundred miles above the mouth of the river. I have never seen it in the vicinity of Hotham Inlet, and am inclined to thinks its occurrence there very unusual. The dwarf growth of willow and alder is unsuitable for nesting places, and if found there at all it is undoubtedly a straggler from the interior. 26. Colaptes auratus (LiiiH.) »S'h'. [378]. The Yellow-shafted Flicker. The only record of the present species- in this region rests upon a single specimen seen in the upper river region. Altiiough I made special efforts to find this bird, save in the above-mentioned instance none came under my observation. It would appear that the Picidw represented by this and the preceding species are uncommon, if not rare, in Arctic Alaska. The question should remain unsettled, however. The necessary haste with which the writer's observations were made leaves room for doubt in some instances in regard to the exact abundance of certain species. ALCEDINID.E. KINGFISHERS. 27. Ceryle alcyon (Linn.) Bote. [382J. Thf. Belted Kingfisher. Along the waters of the upper river this well-known bird is quite common, and it is undoubt- edly a regular summer resident of this region. The kingfisher is confined exclusively to the water courses of the interior and it seldom ai)proaches the coast in this latitude. During the past two years I have never seen a specimen in the Kotzebue Souud region. It is possible that during the migrations an occasional specimen may be found there. But the absence of the natural home of the kingfisher renders its occurrence there very improbable. The present record adds considerably to the known range of the kingfisher. STRIGID.E. OWLS. 28. tJlula cinerea (Gmel.) Bp. [399J. The Great Gray Owl. In the dense spruce forests of the interior the Gray Owl is a well-known resident. It is con- fined to the timbered portions of the country. I have never seen a specimen in the vicinity of the coast, and it is doubtful whether that treeless section has any attraction for it. The nest of this species consists of a rude mass of sticks, generally placed in the top of a spruce tree. Like most of the Strigidm, the Gray Owl is a permanent resident of this region, and the same nest is used year after year. During winters of exceptional severity there is frequently a partial migration to the lower latitudes. 29. Nyctea scaiidiaca (Linn.) Newt. [406]. The Snowy Owl. Throughout every portion of Alaska known to man the Snowy Owl is a well-known resident. Although it is never abundant in any locality, I saw it frequently along the river. Perched upon a rocky eminence, a tall spruce, or even a fragment of drift-wood, this noble species is a conspicu- ous figure. It is very shy, however, and great skill is required to circumvent it. Unlike the preceding species it is common on the coast. Here we find it on the hills or even among the drift-wood along the beach. It nests principally in the wooded interior, although a clift' is often chosen for that purpose. Like the preceding, the Snowy Owl frequently migrates during the severe months of winter. 118 CRUISE OF THE STEAMEE COKWIN. 30. Surnia funerea {Linn.) Sick, and Sw. [407]. The American Hawk Owl. Tbis handsome specie.s seems to be irreguhul^' distiilmlcil in the Kowak region. Two speci- mens were shot at Hotham Inlet, but in the wooded interior none came under mj- observation. As the name indicates, the Hawk Owl has some of the characteristics of the FalconkUe. and possesses much of the latter's boldness and daring. While in camp at Hotham Inlet a striking instance of this occurred. About dusk in the evening, as one of the party was returning to camp, a Hawk Owl darted from a neighboring thicket, seized the cap from his head, and was beating a hasty retreat with its novel prize. Before the owl had proceeded far, a well-directed shot brought down the retreating marauder. I have never been able to decide whether the act was one of jjure courage or a superabundance of audacity, but at all events it cost the brave bird its life. FALCONID^. HAWKS. 31. Hierofalco gyrfalco sacer (Forst.) Ridgw. [412i]. Macfarlane's Gyrfalcon. The present species is one of the most widely distributed and abundant birds of prey in this region. A pair or more can be seen circling overhead in any bold portion of the interior. It breeds here early in June. The nest is placed in a tall spruce or upon a rocky eminence along the river banks, and two or three eggs are the usual complement. 32. iEsalon columbarius (Linn.) Kaup. [417]. The Pigeon Hawk. In this latitude the Pigeon Hawk is confined to the wooded interior. I have never met any specimens along the Arctic coast. In the Kowak Kiver counti-y, liowever, it is not uncommon. I saw the nest and young in the mountain districts, and shot a pair on the banks of the lower river. This is the only record I have in the present region. While these data are hardly sufiQ- cient evidence, I believe that it is a regular summer resident of northern Alaska. 33. Circus hudsonius (iinn.) n«//. [430]. The Marsh Hawk. On the lower river, amougthe bush-covered lowlands, the Marsh Hawk is a common and abun- dant species. A large number of specimens were brought to me by the natives at Hotham Inlet, all of which were young birds. It nests in the interior; but after the young are grown it is abundant along the Arctic coast. At this season of the year we see it flying back and forth over the wet meadow lands. The southern migration takes place during the latter part of September. 34. Astur atricapillus (Wih.) Bp. [433]. The American Goshawk. This flue bird was observed only on one or two occasions in the Kowak River region. I have no data upon which to base an opinion, but according to my observation it is very uuc^'mmon. This species is one of the boldest and hiirdiest of the Falconidw, and in lower latitudes many instances of its daring came under my observation. TETRAONID^. GROUSE. 35. Canace canadensis [Linn.) Bp. [472]. The Spruce Partridge. The Spruce Partridge is a sparing resident in this region. The only specimens that came under my notice were along ihe upi)er river. It is found ex(;lnsively in the spruce forests of the interior; and to my iiuowledge it never approaches the coast iu this latitude. I have never seen the nest here, but it undoulitedly breeds wherever found. 36. Bouasa umbellus umbelloides (Doiq/l.) Hainl. [473a]. The Gray Ruffed Grouse. Like its soutijcin relative, the familiar partridge, this species is confined to the wooded interior. It is a siiaring resident iu the far north, and but comparatively few specimens came under my observation. Like the ruffed grouse of the lower latitudes the i)resent species has the peculiar habit of "drumming." In tlir si)ruce forests I liavc frequently heard it drum for hours at a time. This is done during the mating season nnly, at which time many fierce rivalries exist between the males and pitched battles are often fought. I have seen deserted nests of this species containing frag- ments of the shell. CEUISE OF THE STEAMER COKVVIN. 119 37. Lagopus albus (Gm.) Jnd. [474]. Tue Willow Ptarmigan. The White Ptarmigan, familiarly kuowu as the Willow Grouse, is one of the most al)undant species in northern Alaska. Throughout the open portions of the interior and along the shores of Hothani Inlet and Kotzebue Sound it is very common. During the nesting season comparatively few are seen; but when the young are fully Hedged, about the middle of August, we find it every- where. The nest consists of a slight depression in the ground, lined with grass or lichens. The young are hatched the latter part of June. It subsists principally on berries, quantities of which are found, and also the leaves of the dwarf willow. 38. Lagopus rupestris (Gm.) Leach [475]. The Rock Ptarmigan. In the hilly or mountainous sections of the country the preceding is replaced by this hand- some species. The Eock Ptarmigan is found in far less numbers, however; and I am incliued to think it is somewhat rare in the present region. On two occasions I obtained the female, together with the young. These are the only data I possess regarding them ; and it would seem, according to this, that the Eock Ptarmigan is very uncommon. I hardly feel warranted in expressing a decided ooinion in the matter. CHARADEIID^. PLOVERS. 39. Strepsilas interpres (Linn.) Illig. [509]. Turnstone. 40. Strepsilas melanscephala J'iij. [510]. Black Turnstone. One specimen of each of the Turnstones from Hoth am Inlet or Kowak River in the collection. 41. Squatarola helvetica (Linn.) Cm. [513]. The Black-bellied Plover. This handsome species is a common resident of the present region. It is one of the first arrivals in the spring. At this season it resorts to the hilly and well-drained sections, where it nests. When the young are fully fledged we find it in almostevery section. The interior distribution is somewhat restricted, and we find it much more common on the coast. This bird is quite shy at all seasons; and when its haunts are invaded its warning whistle is heard on all hands. The plumage of the mature bird, richly variegated with black and gold, renders this species a very conspicuous object. The nest is generally placed on a knoll, and consists merely of a slight depression in the ground. Four large and finely marked eggs are the usual complement. 42. Cbaradrius dominicus Miill, [515]. The Americajs Golden Plover. Like the preceding species, the Golden Plover is confined to the high and well-drained table lands. It is chiefly coastwise in distribution, although it nests to a limited extent in the interior. The unsuitable character of the country doubtless has its influence in this respect. In the fall it is very abundant along the shores of Hotham Inlet, where it assembles before leaving for the south. 43. .SJgialitis semipalmatus Bonap. [516]. The Semi-palmated Plover. The present species is the smallest representative of the Charadriidce in northern Alaska. It has an inland distribution, although it is not an abundant species in any section. Along the river I found it principally on the exposed sand-bars or mudflats. It never associates in flocks in this region. This species nests on the river banks, and when its haunts are invaded it manifests its alarm by incessant cries. In August it is more abundant and is found everywhere along the river. At this season I found it at Kotzebue Sound in small numbers. The Semi-palmated Plover is known in some sections as the Ringneck Ployer, so called from the beautiful baud encircling the neck. SCOLOPACID^. SNIPE. 44. GalUnago media wilsoni (Temm.) .Ri'djit'. [526a]. Wilson's Snipe. In the Kowak region this species is an uncommon resident. In the far interior not an individual came under my observation, but along the delta and losver portions of the river I found it in sparing numbers. It breeds in the wet marshes early in June, and in company with other 120 CEUISB OF THE STEAMER COKWIK waders it resorts to the shores of Kotzebue Sound during early months of fall. The range of this species is very limited ou the Arctic coast. It is much more al)undai)t south of Bering Straits. 45. Macrorhamphus griseus scolopaceus (Say) Coufs [527a]. The Red-belued Snipe. lu this latitude the present species largely outnumbers the preceding and is au extremely abundant species. The inland distribution is somewhat restricted. In the mountain districts none came under my observation, but in the lower section it is one of the commonest waders. Here we find it wading about in every fresh-water pool, probing the mud with its long, slender bill. It is not shy, and can be approached within a few yards withont exciting alarm. Even after a deadly lire has been poured into their midst they pften settle in the same sjtot, an93]. Thk Ameiiioan White-fronted Goose. At the delta of the river, where the vast marshes extend as far as the eye can reach, we find this species in its greatest abundance. They reach this latitude earlj' in May, or as soon as the lakes and marshes are free from ice, and nest here in tlie greatest numbers. The white-fronted species is commonly known as the Tundra Goose, from the frequency with which it occurs in those peculiar sections. During the molting season, the latter part of July, they are quite helpless, and large numbers are speared by the natives. They leave for the south in September, when ice begins to form on the marshes. 61. Bernicla cauadensis hutcliinsi (Siu. y4ft]. . The WmTE-cnEF.KED Goose. The range of this s[)ecies in this region is almost identical with that of the White fronted Goose. Its interior distribution exceeds it, however, and it is more common. The habits, time of arrival, and dei)arture do not differ essentially from those of the other species. 63. Bernicla nigricans (tuui.) Cass. [509]. The BiACk Brant. These birds occur here merely as spring and fall migrants. The main flight, which passes over very early in the spring, breed in the far north, possibly on the unknown lands surrounding the l)ole. In the present region we only find occasional speciiuen.s, which are merely stragglers from the main body. They may safely be called a very rare resident of this region. 64. Dafila acuta (7.iK«.) 7JoHa/>. [605]. The Pintail. The Pintail, or, as it is sometimes called, the Sprigtail, is the most abundant duck in northern Alaska, and they outnumber all other species combined in the present section. It has an interior as well as a coastwise distribution, although it is somewhat restricted in the former region. P'or a distance of one hundred miles above the mouth the Pintail is very common, but above that point we seldom see them. They nest in large numbers at the delta, and in the fall they are very abundant on the shores of Kotzebue Sound. They are not shy, and I have often approached within a few rods without alarming them. They are among the first arrivals in the spring and the last to leave in the fall. 65. Mareca americana (Gnic/.) iS/cj)A. [007]. The Baldpate. The distribution of the American Widgeon north of the circle is very limited. On the Kowak River they were noted on a few occtisious only, and I am inclined to think tliem somewhat rare. Along the shores of Hotham Inlet they are a sparing .summer resident, and a few specimens were obtained during our stay at that place. They nest, where found, in northern Alaska. CRUISE OP THE WTEAMEE COJJWIN. 123 66. Nettion carollnensis (GmeJ.) Baird [612]. The Green- winged Teal. This well kuown aud haudsome species has au extended rauge in uorthem Alaska. It nests in moderately large uumbeis at the delta, and ranges lor a hundred miles or more above that point. In the fall they are one of the commonest dncks at Hotham Inlet, and nearly equal to the Pintail iu abundance. They generally associate in flocks of a dozen or more and are very unsuspicious. 1 have frequently obtained almost the entire flock by remaining concealed iu the grass. The Green-wing leaves early in September. 67. Pulix marila {Linn.) Baird [614]. The Scaup Duck. Like the Widgeon, the distribution of this species is somewhat restricted in the present region. According to my observation, they are not al)undant north of the Bering Strait; and above Kotze- bue Sound they are seldom seen. It is confined exclusively to the small lakes and freshwater ponds lying inland, where they breed to a limited extent. I saw a few at the delta, but none on the main river. In the southern portion of its rauge the Scaup Duck is much more commou. 68. Harelda glacialis (Linn.) Leach [623]. The Old Squaw Duck. The present species is one of the most peculiar and widely distributed of the northern water- fowl. It is equally at home in the great ice-fields of the Arctic or the vast marshes and lagoons of the interior. They arrive in this latitude very early in the spring, before the ice has commenced to break up ; and at this season they resort to the few open spots that can be found. During' the nesting season, which begins as soon as the snow leaves, they resort iu large numbers to the marshes and flat sections, where they remain until the young are fledged. From this time they are chiefly maritime in distribution, and we seldom find them except along the seashore. Here they remain until the ocean closes with ice. 69. CEdemia americaua Sw. if Hich. [630]. The American Scoter. Although properly a sea duck, the Scoter has a limited inland distribution. In the present region we find them during the breeding season extending as far as the head of the delta. They are not abundant, however, and may be regarded as an uncommon species. After the conclusion of the nesting season they resort to the coast exclusively, and I hav« never seen a specimen iu the above-mentioned region. 70. Melauettavelvetina(CflS8.) Baird [632]. TaE American Velvet Scoter. The distribution of this handsome species seems to be very irregular in the present region. The only record I have in the present region rests upon a single flock. On July 26, while iu camp on the river, at a point about two hundred miles above the mouth, a large flock of Velvet Scoters were seen drifting by on the strong current of the river. Although I made every effort to get within range it was impossible to do so, and I was greatly disappointed to see them take flight. The occurrence of these birds here was rather unexpected. According to previous observations thej- are strictly maritime in this latitude. This species breeds to a limited extent at the delta. In the fall more were observed here, and but few were seen at Hotham Inlet. 71. Mergus merganser americanus (Cass.) Bidgw. [636]. The American Sheldrake. On the coast region of Alaska the Sheldrake is a very rare species. In the present region, however, the Sheldrake is a common, although not an abundant, species. At the various points along the river I saw aud obtained specimens of it. I have never seen more than a pair in one locality, and iu several instances only saw the female. In the early part of August I obtained the latter, together with the young, which at that time were iu downy plumage. I infer from this that they arrive late in the spring. 72. Mergus serrator (XiiiH.) [637]. The Rek-breasted Sheldrake. The ])resent species is found in varying abundance in the Kowak region. They are confined chiefly to the lagoons and lakes lying off the main river, among which they breed. We fiud them also common on the shores of Hotham Inlet and Kotzebue Sound. 124 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. LARID.E. GULLS, TERNS. 73. Pagophila ebumea {Phipps) Kaup [6.17]. Ivoky Gl'll. Olio specimeu from Ilotbiiin lulet or Kowak River in tiie collection transmitted to the Smith- sonian Institution. 74. Rissa tridactyla kotzebui (I}p.) Coiics [COHa]. The Pacific Kittiwake. This interesting and widely distributed gull has a limited range only in the present region. It is chiefly coastwise in di.stribntion, and along the interior waters its occiirrcncie may be regarded as accidental. I have seen them at the delta of the river, but it is very doubtful whether they nest there. The Kittiwake breeds in great numbers on the rocky shores of Chammiso Island, which is only a few miles distant. 75. Larus glaucus Bi-ihiii [GGO]. The Glaucous Gfll. The Glaucous Gull largely outnumbers all other species in the present region. Its habits are a strange combination of the fresh-water and saltwater gulls, and we find them commonly in both places. In the Kowak region the inland distribution of the Glaucous Gull greatly exceeds that of the coast, and throughout the interior they are extremely abundant. The distribution of this species is in a measure complementary to that of the Arctic Tern, and in localities resorted to by the latter the gull is unaccountably absent. They nest in large numbers at the delta and through- out the interior. 76. Larus glaucesceus Uchl. [UGS]. The Glaucous-WINGED Gull. This gull has a very limited range in the Kowak region. It is confined to the immediate vicinity of the river mouth, and is never seen above the delta. On the shore of Kotzebue Sound it is moderately abundant, and replaces the jireceding species to a certain extent. They are much more abundant south of the Bering Strait. 77. Larus philadelphiae ( Orrf. ) (.'ra^ [075]. Bonapaute's Gull. On the Arctic coast tliis species is of very rare occurrence. There is no record of it north of the Bering Strait, and according to my observation it is strictly an inland species. In the present region it is a regular summer resident, and occurs throughout the interior. It is not abundant, neither is it rare. They undoubtedly nest in this region. 78. Sterna macrura {Xuuin.) [(W7]. Thk Arctic Terx. For a distance of one hundred miles above the delta the Arctic Tern is extremely abundant. Although it is the smallest of the Laridw, it is one of the most interesting as well. It is known in every portion of the far north, and resorts commonly to the iulaiul waters, as well as the icy seas. The tern arrives early in May or as soon as the ice moves out of the rivers. The nest is generally placed upon a sand-spit or any bare location along the river, and the young are hatched in June. During the nesting season the male birds may be seen circling about in the vicinity, and the peculiarly reckless and headlong manner in which they plunge into the water will at once draw attention. They are extremely belligerent in their disposition, and Mill attack and drive away any species that may invade their domain. Even the lue.sence of man is warmly resented, and I have often been attacked while invading its haunt. A single discharge from a shot-gun will cause them to be remarkably scarce, however. On the wing these birds are very graceful. Their long, pointed wings and deeply forked tails, together with the elegance of coloring, renders them one of the most beautiful species. 79. Stercorarius parasiticus (iiini.) .Su««rf(r8 [Oy.l]. The Long-tailed jAECiEit. This elegant species has a limited range in the Kowak region. We usually tind them in pairs, and they are not abundant in any locality. In several instances I saw them in company with the Glaucous Gull, ui)on whom they practice their piratical operations. Tlie jaegers imbitnally attack and annoy the gulls and compel them to disgorge their prey, and in consequence of this fact it is a bird of ill repute among the gulls. They nest here in the marshes wherever found. \ JULIUS BIEP« a CO. L PARROT AUK CRUISE OF THE STEAMEE COEWET. 125 COLYMBID^. LOONS. 80. Colymbustorquatus Briinn [73<5]. The Loon. This species is the most ancoinmon diverin northern Alaska. It was noted on a few occasions, howerer, but I am inclined to think it rare. It i.s largely outnumbered by the black-throated 8i)ecie8. I saw an occasional skin among the natives and learned from them that it occurs at rare intervals only. The Loon is much more common on the Bering Sea coast. 81. Colymbus adamsi Gray [737]. The Great White- billed Loon. The above-mentioned species is the largest representative of the Colymhidrv, and is a well-known resident of this region. It is not abundant in any section, however, but is more common than the preceding. They nest in the great marshes of the delta, but do not range above the head. I saw several skins among the natives, which were usefully employed as " ditty bags." 82. Colymbus arcticus Linn. [7^8]. The Ulack-throateti Divek. Tiironghout the interior, along the shores of Ilotham Inlet and Kotzebue Sound, the black- throated species is extremely abundant. Here it is found more common than in any other section of the north. In this latitude it associates in large flocks, and we see them in every marsh and lagoon along the river. During the hoars of the night the wild cry of the loon alone breaks the stillness, and always imparts to one a sense of inde.scribable loneliness. This loon nests in the impenetrable marshes of this region duriug the latter part of May, and leaves when its haunts are closed with ice. 83. Coljrmbus septentrionalis Linn. [740]. The Red-throated Diveb. The haunts and habits of this bird are almost identical with those of the preceding species. It is much more uncommon, however, and not more than one in ten specimens can be referred to this species. NOTES ON THE DOWNY YOUNG OF THE PARROT AUK AND OF THE CRESTED AUK. By Leonard Ste.jnegek. (Two plates.) , During the cruise of the Concin, 1884, several downy young were collected by Mr. J. E. Lutz on Otter Island. They are of special interest, since the newly hatched chicks of the two species collected have never been received at any museum, so far as known, nor have they ever before been described or figured. Cyclorrhynchus psittactaus (Pa».) Ridffic. [747]. The Parrot Auk. (Plate I.) Baird, Brewer, and Ridgway, Water Birds of North America, 1, p. 51.5. Boicny young (U. S. Nat. Mus., Xo. 100378: J. E. Lutz, coll., No. 27, Otter Island, Jul;,- 17. 1884.) The bill exhibits all the curious peculiarities which characterize the genus Cyclonhynchiis, the "recurved" commi.'?sure, the falcate shape of the lower mandible, and the sidewise compression of the whole beak. In fact, the bill is very similar to that of the adult bird, of which Mr. Cassin said that "it seems to attain a maximum of oddity amongst the queer bills of this family of birds, the whole affair looking as if it might be a nose of wax badly pinched upwards, especially to the disadvantage of the under mandible." The chief diflference is that in the chick the upper mandi- ble is bent more abruptly towards the point, which, on account of the knob for breaking the egg shell still remaining, presents a truncate profile. The characteristic notch behind the tip is present. The nostrils are pervious. The color of the bill is a horny brownish g^ay, more dusky towards the tip; corner of mouth in the fresh bird probably whitish. 126 CEUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. The color of the downy plumage above Is of a dark smoky gray; darker, nearly blackish on ~ores (Liun.). Black Turnstone, Arenaria melanocephala (Vig.). Little Brown Crane, G^rus canadensis (Linn.). Black-throated Loon, L'rinalor arcticus (Linn.). Ivory Gull, Gnria alba (Giinn.). Bonaparte's Gull, Lams pihiladeiphia (Ord.). Glaucous winged Gull, Larus glaucescens (?) Naum. Arctic Tern, Sterna jiaradiswa Brnun. Old-squaw, Clanguta hi/emalis (Linn.). Green-winged Teal, Nctlion caroliennsis (Gmel.). American Goshawk, Astur alricapilliis (Wils.). Pigeon Hawk, FaJco coliimhariiis Linn. American Magpie, Pica rustica hitdsonica (Sab.). Northern Shrike, Laniiis borealis A'^ieill. Barn Swallow, Chilidon erglhrogaster (Bodd.). Gray-cheeked Thrnsh, Turdiis alicia: Baird. Snowy Owl, Nyctea nyctea (Liun.). FISHES. California Flounder, Pleuronectes stellatus Pallas. Blenny, Delolepis rirgatna. Four-spined Scnlpiu, Cottus quadricornis L. Pike, £sox lucius L. Grayling, ThymalHs signifer Rich. Whitefish, Coregoniis pusillKs. California Herring, Clupea mirabilia Gir. MOLLUSKS. Mr. Dall makes the following statement in regard to the shells : The shells collected by the Corwin and sent by Captain Healy Lave been carefully preserved with the idea of working them up for a general report of the shells of Bering Strait and Sea at some future time. They have 127 128 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWII^. not yet been catalogued, and it is impossible therefore to say how many species there are in the lots received, but it is certain that the collection is one of the best and most valuable that has ever been received by the Museum from Bering Sea, and Is of very great importance for a correct knowledge of the fiiuna of that region. The Arctic shell fauna has been examined in the North Atlantic region by so many expedi. tions that, considering the wide distribution of most Arctic species, it is hardly to be expected that many new things are to be found aiiywliere within the limits of the Arctic Sea. Yet there was in Captain Healy's drcdgings a shell which proved to be not merely a new sjyeeies but a itew genus. This very unexpected "find" leads to the hope that more novelties remain to be secured even in the Arctic region. MARINE INVERTEBRATES. The collection includes sea-urchins, starfish, ophiuraus, holothurians, alcyonian corals, sea anemones, hydroids, worms, and crustacea. Especially worthy of notice are the following species: Sea-urchins: Strongi/locentrotus Brobachiensis. Locality: Off Hotham Inlet and off Point Hope. Starfish : Asterias acerrata. Locality: Lat. 66° 7' N., long. 168° 45' W., and lat. 65° 55' 15" N., long. 108° 9' 30" W. Ophiurans: Ami)hiura squamata. Locality: Ofif Point Hope. PLANTS. The collections of plants forming a iiartof the accessions 15278 (received November, 1881) and 15382 (received December, 1884) was sent to the late Prof. Asa Gray for identification. They have not yet been returned, and since Professor Gray's death has occurred during the interim it seems improbable that the identifications have been made. ROCKS. The only rocks collected were some specimens of serpentine and quartzite from Jade Mountain, on the Kowak Kiver, and hornblende andesites from the recent volcanic islaud of Bogasloff, in Bering Sea. SOth Congress, ) HOUSE OF REPRESETs'TATIVES. j Mis. Doc. 1st Se ssio n, f ^ No. 602. R E r () Vy T CRUISE OF THE REVENUE MARINE STEAMER C O E w r N IX THE ARCTIC OCE^N THE YEAR 1SS4. BY CAPT. M. A. HEALY, U. S. R. M., COMMA NDEE. i WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1889. U' Deacidrfied using the Bookkeeper proce Neutralizing Agent: Magnesium Oxide Treatment Date: NOV 193 BBKKEEPEI PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGIES. L ■iii