Class _SB_Jl£
Book ^a^t^
COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT.
Harriet says that a book, like an orchard, needs a
promising- outlook. How will this do?
Fruit and Orchard Gleanings
From Bough to Basket
Gathered and Packed Into Book Form
BY
JACOB BIGGLE
ILLUSTRATED
*'P/ant fruit trees. ^ Who plants and tends a tree hath
part in God's oivn ivork, and makes the
earth more beautiful.''''
Philadelphia
WILMER ATKINSON CO.
1906
LIBRARY of CONGRESS
Two CoDies Received
DFr 81 )-^06
Copyrient Entry
CLASS /\ XXc, No.
COPY By
Copyright, 1906
WiLMER Atkinson Co.
ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOR.
( Special Note : All colored pictures are two-thirds
natural size.)
Apples.
Mountain Rose, . Plate XII.
Baldwin, ....
Plate V.
Oldmixon Free, .
" XII.
Ben Davis, ■ • •
III.
Salway,
" XII.
King,
II.
Smock Free, . .
" XVIII
Maiden's Blush,
X.
Pears.
Northern Spy. •
VIII.
Anjou, . . . . Plate XV.
Oldenburg, . • -
X.
Bartlett, ....
" XIII.
Ranibo, ....
II.
Duchess, . . .
" XV.
Rhode Island
Greening,
III.
Flemish Beauty,
" XVII.
Smith's Cider, .
I.
Kieffer, ....
" XVII.
Smokehouse, . .
I.
Seckel,
" XIII.
Snow,
IX.
Sheldon, ....
" XIII.
Stayman
Plums.
Winesap,
IV.
Twenty Ounce, .
IV.
Bradshaw, . . Plate XIV.
Yellow Newtown
Burbank
XIV.
Coe's Golden
(or Albermarle
Drop,
" XX.
Pippin), ....
V.
Damson, ....
" XIV.
York Imperial, .
VIII.
German Prune, .
" XX.
Cherries.
Green Gage, • .
" XX.
Kelsey,
" XX.
Black Tartarian,
Plate XI.
lyombard, ....
" XX.
Montmorency, .
XI.
Red June, ...
" XIV.
Napoleon, ....
XI.
Yellow Kgg, • •
" XIV.
Nuts.
Miscellane
ous.
Paragon
Chestnuts,
Plate XVT.
Effects of Pear
I,eaf -blight, • . Pi
ate VII.
Peaches.
San Jose on
Apple,
" VII.
Crawford's I,ate,
Plate XIX.
Pear,
" VII.
Elberta,
"
XIX.
Sprayed and Un-
Globe
XVIII.
sprayed Fruit,
" VI.
PREFACE.
The writing- of this little book has surely been a
labor of love. Harriet and I love trees. They are
our pets, and we
think as much of
them as we do of the
animals and birds on
the farm.
It had sometimes
occurred to me that a
need existed in this
country for a simple,
practical, inexpen-
sive, boiled-down yet complete, printed talk on the
subject of tree fruits, — a talk that would help the
amateur as well as the more experienced orchardist.
My publishers encouraged the idea, saying that
requests for such a treatise had often been received
at their office during the past few years. Well — to
make a long story short — this book is largely the
result of their encouragement and kindness ; without
such helps I very much doubt whether the idea ever
would have materialized into clear type.
Harriet has helped me, too — bless her heart. So
have Tim and Farmer Vincent. And so have the
artists, designers, engravers and photographers who
are connected with the Wilmer Atkinson Co.
Yes, and my thanks go out, also, to the various
practical fruit men, government experts, and writers,
whose helpful suggestions, letters, pictures and
(7)
8 BIGGI.E: ORCHARD BOOK
bulletins have been of aid to me in the preparation
of this volume. At times, too, I have been glad to
consult Prof. Bailey's Cyclopedia of American Horti-
culture, Thomas' American Fruit Culturist, Barry's
Fruit Garden, and other standard reference books.
And I am indebted to H. W. Collingwood, Editor of the
Rural New-Yorker, for permission to reproduce the
excellent dwarf pear photo-engraving in Chapter XV;
and to K. B. Harriman, of the Pilgrim Magazine,
Battle Creek, Mich., for his courtesy in allowing me
to use the peach-grader picture in Chapter XIX.
Occasionally I have used extracts from letters and
from Bxperiment Station or Department of Agricul-
ture literature, but, in the main, this Orchard Book
embodies my own experiences, observations and con-
clusions — the result of a lifetime of practise and study.
My friend, Wilmer Atkinson, claims that his paper
is " Unlike any other. " He's right, too. It is. And,
following a good example, I have tried to make this
book different from any other. It isn't an encyclo-
pedia ; it isn't a long-winded two or three dollar
text-book; it isn't an incomplete pamphlet; it isn't
hard to understand; and it isn't a rehash of other
people's guesswork. No. It's simply a plain little
book that aims to tell the inquiring reader just what
he or she needs to know — no more, no less. I have
tried to have all the necessary facts set down and all
the unnecessary things left out. It's boiled-down
' ' essence of orchard, ' ' served with picture trimmings,
and side dishes of the finest colored plates ever put
into a horticultural book. I hope you will like it, and
that your orchard may prosper accordingly.
Elmwood, 1906. JACOB BIGGLB.
CONTENTS.
Chapter I.
Chapter II.
Chapter III.
Chapter IV.
Chapter V.
Chapter VI.
Chapter VII.
Chapter VIII.
Chapter IX.
Chapter X.
Chapter XI.
Chapter XII.
Chapter XIII.
Chapter XIV.
Chapter XV.
Chapter XVI.
Chapter XVII.
Chapter XVIII
Chapter XIX.
Chapter XX.
PAGE
Starting an Orchard: Planning- 11
Seed-Growing, Grafting and
Budding 19
Setting Trees 29
Pruning and Early Care of
Newly-Set Trees Zl
Later Pruning 45
Cultivation. Fertilization.
Thinning 51
Spraying 59
Scale Pests : San Jose, Oyster-
Shell, Scurfy, etc 67
Cover Crops. Fall, Winter
and Spring Care 75
The Apple 81
The Cherry 91
The Peach 95
The Pear 101
The Plum 107
The Quince and Dwarf Pear . Ill
Nut Trees 115
Citrus and Other Fruit Trees 119
Picking Fruit 123
Grading and Packing . . . .129
Cold Storage and Marketing . 137
(9)
Chapter I.
STARTING AN ORCHARD: PLANNING.
If a man doesn't start, he -a.' ill tiever get anywhere.— 't\va..
The first thing to do about starting an orchard is
to plan for it. Put on your thinking-cap, study into
the matter, and do not
jump in the dark. A
slow start is much better
than a poor start. Har-
riet says that an orchard
set in the right place, - ^2p^*-i^^^ -r"-^ ««
at the right time and of '\\^-rvv^
the right varieties, is planning the orchard
worth just "eleven times" more than a hit-or-miss
orchard. (Where she secured the data for such exact
figures, I do not know ; but I am willing to admit
that she is about right in this statement.)
To begin, suppose we consider the question of
"right place. " The ideal spot for a proposed orchard
is gently sloping and high. This doesn't mean that
it must be on top of a mountain. No. It means only
compar-ative height. The spot should be somewhat
higher than its surroundings. That is the idea. Then
when a frost comes — or a deluge — it quickly runs off
on to the lower lands. Proper frost drainage is just
as important as good water drainage. INIore so. Why?
Because water can be tiled away ; frost can not. Some
growers prefer a north or some other slope ; but
(11)
12 biggi^e: orchard book
height of land is of more importance than direction of
slope.
Another thing to consider carefully, is the local
climate and conditions connected therewith. For
instance : Before setting a commercial orchard of,
say, peach trees, look around and ascertain whether
the natural local conditions are favorable to that par-
ticular fruit. Is the locality a "peach section " ? Are
ISN'T SOMETHING LIKE THIS WORTH
PLANNING FOR?
there successful peach orchards already established?
Is the average winter climate mild enough for this
somewhat tender fruit? Does the state experiment
station advise the planting of peaches in your locality?
Do near-by practical fruit-growers advise it? If the
answer to each of these questions is, ' ' No, ' ' the chances
are that you will be wise to change your plans and
plant some other species of fruit, — some kind which
is exactly adapted to the locality. The same rule
holds good (to a greater or lesser degree) with other
fruits.
STARTING AN ORCHARD : PI^ANNINCi
13
P:flCHES,PLUMS
PCARS,CHERR1ES
ETC.
Other local conditions to consider, before setting
a commercial orchard, are transportation, marketing
facilities, and the help problem. In some localities
it is possible to employ transient help just when most
needed, — men for picking (for example), or women
for packing ; in other localities it is almost impossible
to secure such temporary assistance.
Carefully study the question of soil in its relation
to the fruits, etc., to be grown. Some kinds of fruit
do best on light soils, some do best on heavy soils.
The difference between a
sandy or a clayey location
may mean the difference be-
tween success and failure.
In this book will be found,
in the special chapter de-
voted to each kind of fruit,
etc., hints about the soil best
suited to the species.
The foregoing sugges-
tions apply with most force,
of course, to large orchards
planted for market purposes. The home orchard for
family use necessarily means an aggregation of various
kinds of trees probably all set together on one kind of
soil, and therefore it is not in this case always possible
to cater to all the requirements of each. But it pays
to do so, as nearly as is practicable, even with a small
family orchard.
Examine the subsoil. Is it so hard and so near
the surface that tree roots can never hope to find
a secure anchorage? Does water stand above the
SUGGESTION FOR HOME-
ORCHARD ARRANGEMENT
14 BIGGI.E ORCHARD BOOK
subsoil in such quantity and with such persistency as
to threaten ' ' wet feet ' ' to the trees ? If the former,
seek another location ; if the latter, make up your
mind to tile the field before setting the trees. There
are few orchards which are not the better for a sys-
tem of underground drains. Better do the necessary
tiling at the start, rather than later. Have the tile
buried three feet deep, and, if possible, lay it midway
between tree rows.
Now let us consider the question of the "right
time." Generally speaking, early spring is the best
season to set an orchard. There are some exceptions
to this, of course. For instance : Sweet cherry trees
often grow better when set in the fall. Some of the
more hardy fruits — apples, pears, etc., — may be
planted in autumn, if desired. Latitude has much
to do with this question. The ^rther south you are,
the safer it is to practise fall planting.
In the north, however, it is seldom wise to set
tender trees, like peaches or plums, until spring ;
therefore the best rule I can give to the planter
who isn't an expert, is: Stick to spring planting.
Tim says that it's "better to be safe than sorry,"
and I am sure he is not far wrong.
But it is usually good policy to purchase trees in
the fall, "heel" them in near the proposed orchard,
and thus be ready for instant action when the ground
gets into workable shape in the spring. The fall
buyer gets first choice of trees, and runs no danger
of delayed spring shipments. Or, buy the trees in
the fall, and let the nurseryman keep them for you
until winter is over.
STARTING AN ORCHARD : PLANNING
15
HEELING IN" TREES :
TRENCH READY ;
UNTYING NURSERY BUNDLE
How to ' ' heel in ' '
trees : Dig a trench, about
a foot and a half deep, the
same in width, and as long-
as may be necessary ; if
possible, choose a high,
sheltered, well - drained
spot. Untie the bundles
of trees, and place them
loosely along the trench,
— each variety by itself,
properly labeled. Half-a-
dozen trees to a running
foot is close enough. Of course put the roots in the
trench ; then incline the trees backward until they
are "half lying down" across the excavation. Now
shovel in fine dirt, carefully firm it into place, and
pile the remainder of the excavated dirt well up
around the roots and lower portion of trunks. If
the climate is very cold, or if rabbits and mice
are feared, earth can be piled still higher up
around the trunks and perhaps even aroimd the
lower branches. If large quantities of trees are to be
' 'heeled in, ' ' work is les-
sened and matters sim-
,. ... plified if close-together
parallel trenches are
used instead of a single
long one, using the dirt
from each new trench to
cover the preceding one.
"heeling IN' OPERATION Draiii the water away
COMPLETED, EXCEPT SHOVELING
SOIL IN PLACE irom the trenches.
16 BIGGIwE ORCHARD BOOK
I earnestly advise all intending tree planters to
visit the nearest reliable nursery and personally select
the trees wanted. Pick out straight, healthy, properly-
branched, thrifty trees. Medium-size trees are usually
best. Of course they should be fumigated and
guaranteed free from scale. (They should also be
dipped at home in the lime, sulphur and salt mixture,
to make assurance doubly sure. )
But perhaps you may prefer to grow your own
trees, instead of buying them already grown. If so,
you will find directions for seed sowing, budding and
grafting, in the next chapter.
At last we have come to the matter of "right
varieties." And this is a very important matter,
indeed. So important, in fact, that if it requires a
year of preliminary study and inquir}^ to decide the
matter rightly, it will be time profitably spent.
Study the various fruit chapters in this book,
wherein I have endeavored to give desirable lists of
varieties for different localities. Write to your state
experiment station, mentioning the nature of your
soil, and ask for special advice as to the best varieties
for you to plant ; and be sure to state whether your
orchard is wanted for market or family purposes.
Talk with practical fruit-growers in your locality.
Consult with your market buyers (if you are to have
a commercial orchard), or with your family's taste (if
it's to be a home orchard) .
Also, before buying or planning an orchard or
ordering trees, study these facts about pollination of
blossoms : Much of the unsatisfactory fruiting of
orchards all over the country is due to self-sterility.
A tree is self-sterile if it can not set fruit unless
planted near other varieties. The main cause of
STARTING AN ORCHARD : PLANNING 17
self-sterility is the inability of the pollen of a variety
to fertilize the pistils of that variety. An indication of
self-sterility is the continued dropping of young fruit
from isolated trees or solid blocks of one variety ;
also, fruit from a self-sterile tree is apt to be imper-
fectly formed. Self-sterility is not a constant character
with any variety. Poorly-nourished treesaremorelikely
to be sterile with their own pollen than well-fed trees
are. The loss of fn;it from self-sterility may be pre-
vented by planting other varieties . •vW;\,
among the self -sterile trees, or -*^'=»U*^^> ^i^^„^
by graitmg other varieties into
occasional trees. For names of
varieties which are often self-
sterile, consult each special fruil
chapter in this book.
^Getting the ground ready for the tree-setting is
another important part of " starting an orchard." If
possible, plow it in the fall. At least, it should be
plowed previous to planting. Harrow it until the
field is fine and level.
If the ground was in sod last year, better grow pota-
toes and subdue the grass previous to setting trees.
Preliminary fertilizing may or may not be necessary
or desirable. If the land is fairly fertile, I should pre-
fer, ordinarily, to apply manure or fertilizer after the
trees are planted, rather than before — 'tis more econom-
ical. (See Chapter VI for further fertilizing facts. )
It is a good idea to make a plan of the orchard, drawn
to scale, and mark thereon just where each tree is to go.
This is a great help when figuring out how many trees
to buy, or when setting the trees, or in after years when
somebody asks : ' ' What's the name of i/its tree ? ' '
18 BIGGLE ORCHARD BOOK
DONTS.
Don't plan to start an orchard on sod.
Don't waste money in bujing " big "' trees.
Don't allow that you know it all ; consult with the other fellow.
Don't locate an orchard on or very near the steep bank of
an abrupt, deep ravine. A big g-ully often acts like a frost trap.
Don't plan to set large, solid blocks of trees of any one
variety. Better alternate several varieties in double rows.
Don't forget that tree roots are not improved by exposure to
wind or sun. Don't let them dry out, unduly, before "heeling
in " or planting. Protect a newly-dug tree as you would a babj-.
Don't neglect to plan for the planting of a windbreak on the
north and west sides of the orchard, — but not too close; about
forty feet distant will do. Scotch pine or Norway spruce makes
a good shelter.
The orchardist who figures the " possible net profit from one
tree," and then multiplies that sum by the number of trees in the
orchard, is usually storing up disappointment. Orchards, like
chickens, seldom hatch out a crop exactly "according to rule."
Don't figure on "novelties," nor varieties that the market
doesn't want ; nor varieties that are already overplanted. Plant
few kinds for market, rather than many kinds. Remember that
large, uniform lots can be sold to better advantage than an
assortment of many varieties. " Carload lots " always command
attention.
Don't forget that the near presence of large bodies of water
(preferably to the windward of the orchard) , is often an impor-
tant factor in the production of tender varieties of fruit. For
example : Peaches, etc., are successfully grown on the east bank
of X,ake Michigan, and not on the west bank ; and, on the east
bank, the crop is more sure within three miles of the lake than
it is farther inland.
The age at which different fruit trees begin to bear moderately
profitable crops varies greatly according to soil, climate, culture
and varietr, but perhaps a fair average would be : Apples, in ten
or twelve years from setting (Spy, Spitzenburg, Rambo, Seek-no-
further, etc., are ver^' slow) ; cherries, five or six years ; oranges
and lemons, eight or ten years ; peaches, four or five years ; pears
(standard) , ten or twelve years ; pears (dwarf) , four or five years ;
plums, five or six years ; quinces, five or six years. The peach is
usually the shortest lived of all fruit trees, — twelve or fifteen
years is about the average limit.
PLATE I
SMITH'S CIDER
SMOKEHOUSE
Chapter II.
SEED-GROWING, GRAFTING AND
BUDDING.
Forward in the name of God : Plant, graft and nourish tip
trees in your ground ; the labor is small, the cost is nothing, the
commodity is great : yourselves shall have pleiity, the poor shall
have sotnewhat in time of want, and God shall reward your good
merits a?id diligence. — From an old English orchard book.
Nearly all orchard trees come from seeds originally
planted in nursery-beds, and later, after being budded
or grafted, transplanted to the orchard. They are in
fact usually transplanted once or more before being
finally put out in the orchard, — except in the case of the
chestnut, hickory, etc., which object to being trans-
planted and are more easily grown by planting the
nuts where the trees permanently belong.
To those accustomed to sowing flower and vegetable
seeds it is often a surprise to find that tree seeds do
not germinate so readily as the others. It is a fact that
they do not. Still, fair success may be looked for by
attention to the preservation and sowing of the seeds.
Joseph Meehan says: — "As a rule, all kinds of
seeds of trees are the better sown in autumn. As
soon as the seeds are ripe, keep them in a cool place
and in sand so that they will not lose weight by dry-
ing. If in a building not exposed to winds, it will be
a suitable place. Apple, cherry, peach and the whole
list of such trees are included. Nurserymen who
raise trees by the millions follow this plan.
(19)
20 BIGGLE ORCHARD BOOK
' ' The seeds are sown in beds, usually four feet in
width, the seeds well covered, as any other seeds
would be. A covering of forest leaves, straw or like
material is placed over the beds, kept in place by
adding branches of trees, sticks or prepared slats.
This covering is taken off gradually in spring, as the
seeds germinate.
" Should it be inconvenient to sow in autumn, the
same result may be expected from spring sowing, but
the seeds must be properly preserved. There must be
no loss of weight through the winter ; the seeds must
be as fresh in spring as when gathered. To accom-
plish this, either keep them in a damp cellar or mix
them with slightly damp soil and keep in a cool cellar
or room. What is required is that the seeds absorb a
little moisture instead of losing any, and this the
slightly damp soil permits of. When so preserved,
sow them the very first thing in spring, just as soon
as the frost leaves the ground. There need be no
covering of leaves or straw to spring-sown beds.
" Nurserymen prefer autumn planting, except for
hickory-nuts, walnuts and a few such seeds which
mice are apt to get away with, and these they sow in
spring.
" For autumn sowing, any time before the ground
freezes will do, but be sure the seeds are not drying
in the meantime. Seasons following sowings have
much to do with the vegetation of tree seeds, and
even experts sometimes fail to secure a crop."
Importance) of Grafting. — Were all forms of
the art of grafting and budding to be taken from the
horticulturist today, commercial fruit growing in its
SKED-GROWING, GRAFTING AND BUDDING 21
high state of perfection would decay with the orchards
now standing. All the common pomaceous fruits
(apples, pears, and quinces) , the stone fruits (peaches,
plums, cherries, and apricots) , and the citrus fruits
(lemons, limes, and oranges) , are now multiplied by
grafting or btidding. The progress in plant breeding
and the great rapidity with which new sorts are now
disseminated could not be attained without the aid of
budding or grafting.
The Scion and Its Treatment. — A scion is a
portion cut from a plant, to be inserted upon another
(or the same) plant, with the intention that it shall
grow. The wood for scions should be taken while in
a dormant or resting condition. The time usually
considered best is after the leaves have fallen^ but
before severe freezing begiJis. The scions should be
cut in about six-inch lengths from matured new wood
from bearing trees of known variety ; then tied in
bunches and placed in moist sand, where they will
not freeze and yet will be kept cold enough to pre-
vent growth. Good results may follow cutting scions
in the spring just before or at the time the grafting
is to be done, but it is a much better plan to cut the
scions in the fall.
The Stock and Its Treatment. — The stock is
the tree or part of a tree upon which or into which the
bud or scion is inserted. For best results in grafting
it is essential that the stock be in an active, growing
condition.
How TO CI.EFT Graft. — When in the spring the
sap begins to move in the stock, be ready ; this occurs
early in the plum and cherry, and later in the pear
22
biggIvE; orchard book
and apple. Do the grafting, if possible, on a mild
day during showery weather. The necessary tools
are a chisel or a thick-bladed knife or a grafting iron
(with which to split open the stock after it is sawed
off smoothly with a fine -tooth saw), a hammer or
mallet to aid the splitting process, a very sharp knife
to trim the scions, and a supply of good grafting wax.
m-ym
SPLITTING THE 8TOCK TRIMMED SCION SCIONS INSERTED
SECTIONAL
TOP VIEW OF SCIONS
IN PLACE
GRAFTING W^AX
APPLIED
CI.EFT GRAFTING I FROM START TO FINISH
Saw off a branch at the desired point, split the stock
a little way down, and insert a scion at each outer
edge — taking care that the inner bark of the scion
fits snugly and exactly against the inner bark of the
stock. This — together with the exclusion of air and
moisture until a union results — constitutes the secret
of success. Trim the scions wedge-shaped, as shown
in the picture ; insert them accurately ; the wedge
SKED-GROWING, GRAFTING AND BUDDING 23
should be a trifle thicker on the side which comes in
contact with the stock's bark. Lastly, apply grafting
wax. Each scion should be long enough to have two
or three bnds, with the lower one placed, as shown.
The "spring" of the cleft holds the scion securely
in place, and therefore tying should be unnecessary.
If both scions in a cleft grow, one may later be cut
away.
Grafting Wax. — To four pounds of resin and one
of beeswax add one pint of linseed oil ; put in an iron
pot, slowly heat and mix well. Pour out into cold
water and pull by hand until light-colored. Keep in
a cool place. To use, oil the hands, work the wax
until soft, and apply around scions and cracks. If
weather is warm, occasionally moisten hands in cold
water.
Another recipe : One pound of resin, one-half
pound of beeswax and one-quarter pound of tallow,
melted together and applied with a brush. Keep in
an iron pot ; heat for use when wanted.
Other Methods of Grafting. — There are many
other methods of uniting scion and stock, a few of
which may be briefly mentioned, — although the
average orchardist seldom has use for methods more
complicated than the ordinary cleft graft :
Bark grafting: A branch
is sawed off, as for cleft
grafting, and the scions,
instead of being inserted in
a cleft, are cut very thin and
slipped between the bark
and wood, being inserted how bark grafting is done
24
BIGGI.E ORCHARD BOOK
BRIDGE
GRAFTING
far enough to bring the growing parts together. The
bark is then securely bound and wax is iised as in cleft
grafting. It is an excellent method for grafting large
limbs, as it injures the stock less than cleft grafting.
Bridge grafting, so-called, is merely
a method for saving a girdled tree.
Several upright scions are inserted in
the bark, at top and bottom, thus fur-
nishing bridges or connec-
tions through which the sap
can flow. A good coating of grafting wax
is then applied. If all goes well, the tree
grows a new bark on the girdled part. The
illustration explains the operation fully.
Crown grafting refers
merely to a grafting opera-
tion (any style) performed grafting
on the stem at or near the surface of
the ground.
Root grafting means the insertion
of a graft in a stock which is entirely
a root.
Saddle grafting is plainly shown
in Fig. I.
Shield grafting
very thin, as in bark grafting,
and is inserted under the
bark of the stock as a bud
is inserted in the process of
budding, and is firmly bound
in place with waxed cord or
raffia. shield grafting
fig. i. saddle
grafting
The scion is cut
SEED-GROWING, GRAFTING AND BUDDING
method) in
SIDE
GRAFTING
Side grafting : See ilkistration. A,
B and C show how it is done.
Splice grafting is very simple. It is
like whip grafting, minus the mortising.
The two diagonally cut ends are fitted
together ("spliced") and then held in
place by a waxed tie.
Top grafting means, simply, the
inserting of scions (by any desired
the branches of trees.
Many a worthless tree has thus been
changed into a desirable variety.
By using enough scions it is possible
to make an entire new top on almost
any tree. See Fig. II, and study
the idea shown there. It is not
best to cut away too much of the
old tree at once ; therefore, a few
secondary branches are left, and
these, after the scions are thriftily
growing, can gradually be cut away the
following season.
Whip grafting, also called "tongue
grafting" (see Fig. Ill), consists of an
exact "dovetailing" of scion into stock.
Nurserymen use this method in special
cases, and often in root grafting.
The Art of Budding. — This consists
in taking a bvid from one tree and insert-
ing it under the bark of some other tree,
says Farm Journal. The union of the two,
the bud and the stock, takes place at the grafting
FIG. II
MAKING A N E W TOP
26
biggle; orchard book
edges of the bark of the inserted bud. For this reason
the bud should be inserted as soon as cut from its
twig and before it has had time to dry out. The bud
should also be full, plump and well matured, and cut
from wood of the current season's growth. The stock
should be in active growth so that the bark will slip
easily. In cutting the bud a sharp knife is required,
CtJTTIXG A BUD FROM
A BUD STICK
T-SHAPED
INCISION IN STOCK
RAISK THE
BARK, THUS
AND INSERT
THIS BUD
THEN TIE IT
IN PLACE
NEXT SEASON CUT
AWAY THE STOCK, THUS
BUDDING : FROM A TO Z
as a clean, smooth cut is desirable. The knife is
inserted a half inch above and brought out the same
distance below, shaving out a small wedge of wood
under the bud along with the bark. This wedge is no
hindrance to the union and should not be removed.
The leaf is always clipped off.
To insert bud, make a T-shaped incision just
through the bark of stock, as shown in the illustra-
tion. Raise the bark carefully without breaking it
SEED-GROWING, GRAFTING AND BUDDING 27
and insert the bud. Practise will give ease and
despatch to the operator. The bud must be held
fimily to the stock by a bandage wound about the
stock both above and below it, being careful to leave
the eye of the bud uncovered. Raffia, bast, candle-
wick or waxed cloth may be used for tjing. In aboiit
ten days, if the bud "takes," the bandage must be
removed, or the stock will be strangled and its growth
hindered. The work of budding is usually performed
in July or August in the North, and in June in the
South. Whoi the bark peels easily and the weather is
dry and clear ^ is the ideal time .
There are other methods of performing this bud-
ding operation, but the one described is in most
common use. Usuallj' the buds are inserted in young
seedling trees at a point close to the ground. This
done, the operation is complete until the following
season, when all the trees in which the buds have
"taken " should have the top cut off just above the
bud. (See illustration on page 26. )
Budding and Grafting Compared. — The
removal of the top forces the entire strength of the
root into the bud, and, since the root itself has not
been disturl^ed by transplanting, a more vigorous
growth usually results from the bud than from scions
in grafting.
The one objection to budding is that it causes an
unsightly crook in the body of the tree, luiless the
tree is afterward planted deep enough in the orchard
to cover the deformity.
The best methods of propagating each kind of
fruit will be found in the special chapter relating to
that particular kind.
28 BIGGI.E ORCHARD BOOK
SPROUTS FROM EXPERIENCE.
Repeated freezing and thawing while in a moist condition is
destructive to most seeds.
Tim says that orchard grafters are the only kind of grafters
"who don't get into trouble nowadays.
Be sure that your top grafts are not choked out by being
overshaded or interfered with by growth from the stock. If
lice appear, soak the pests with strong tobacco-tea ; do this early,
before the leaves curl and hide the insects.
Cherry, peach and other pits should not be allowed to dry
much after they are taken from the fruit. Wash them clean,
dry in the shade sufficiently to prevent mold, and then stratify,
or store as directed in the beginning of this chapter.
No use to attempt the grafting or budding of vmrelated
fruits ; the pomaceous fruits, the stone and the citrus kinds, are
families by themselves. For example : The pear works nicely
on the pear, better on the quince, and not so easily on the apple,
but yovi can't induce it to grow on the cherry or the plum. And
\ace versa.
Nurserymen frequently practise what they call "stratifica-
tion " ; it consists in placing layers of seeds alternating with
layers of sand in a shallow box. This box may be buried or it
may be set in a sheltered place and covered with leaves or straw
to the depth of a foot. The object is to soften and decay the hard
covering without starting germination. Freezing is beneficial
in case of walnuts, hickory-nuts, peach pits, and the like, as it
helps to crack the shells. Hence svich seeds are sometimes
stratified in boxes placed in sheltered spots on the surface of
the ground, or they maj' be merely placed in a pile on the ground
with a slight covering of leaves or straw. A special point to be
guarded against in stratification is alternate freezing and thaw-
ing. Seeds receiving this treatment should be planted imme-
diately upon being removed from stratification and before signs
of growth appear. A few hours' exposure to wind and sun may
prove disastrous.
PLATE II
RAMBO
KING
Chapter III.
SETTING TREES.
Trees are like children : In the beginning they give us a
great deal of trouble and ivorry, but in the end 7C'e are proud of
them. — Farmer Vincent.
Most planters make the mistake of setting their
trees too closely together. It seems to them no better
than an extravagant waste of ground to set little
spindling trees so many feet apart, and it requires
some imagination to think that the trees will ever
completely occupy the ground. As the man stands off
to survey his newly-set orchard, it actually seems as if
there were nothing there ! But if he could see that
same orchard a few years hence, in his mind's eye,
he would surely see the great wisdom of giving each
tree plenty of "elbow room."
Here is a table of planting distances which is safe
to follow :
Almonds, 16 to 20 feet each way.
Apples, .... 35 to 40 feet each way.
Apricots, 18 to 20 feet each way.
Cherries, sweet, . . 20 to 25 feet each way.
Cherries, sour, . . 16 to 18 feet each way.
Chestnuts, Paragon, About 30 feet each way.
Oranges, 25 to 35 feet each way. (Dwarf kinds less).
Peaches, 18 to 20 feet each way.
Pears, standard, . . 20 to 25 feet each way.
Pears, dwarf, ... 12 ft. to 1 rod each way.
Pecans, 35 to 40 feet each way.
Plums, 18 to 20 feet each way.
Quinces, 12 feet each way.
(29)
30 BIGGLE ORCHARD BOOK
After the tree planter has succeeded in conquering
the temptation to crowd his trees too closely together,
he is often bitten by another temptation — the ' ' filler ' '
idea. An orchard "filler," as the word is usually
/understood, is a small -growing, short-lived tree, —
I something which begins to bear fruit quickly, and
which can be cut out after a few years when it begins
to crowd the main trees. In theory the idea seems
all right, but in actual practise it does not often work
out entirely satisfactorily. Usually the fillers are not
cut out soon enough. It requires a good deal of pluck
to chop down a nice tree, even if it is "only a filler."
Then, again, there's often trouble because the tran-
sients and the permanents require different treatment.
For instance, the full - strength Bordeaux mixture
would be all right for apple trees but too strong for
peach or Japanese plum trees ; and the latter might
require later or shallower cultivation than the non-
producing apples.
The effect of distance between apple trees set about
1880, was recently studied in its relation to yield.
The following four-year averages were found :
Bushels
per acre.
Trees not more than 30 x 30 feet apart, 186
Trees 31 x 31 to 35 x 35 feet apart, 222
Trees 36 x 36 to 40 x 40 feet apart, 229
Which goes to show that it does not pay to set trees
too closely together.
The first thing to do in setting an orchard, is to
lay out and mark the outer sides of the field, accu-
rately, — these being the base lines from which to
SETTING TREES 31
work staking operations. Square the corners by
sighting along a steel square laid on three stakes, the
middle stake being exactly on a corner. When the
four corners are thus established, measure and stake
where the outside trees are to go, on two opposite
sides of the square. But do not have these tree-
places nearer than twenty feet to the outer limits of
orchard field (if there are shade or windbreak trees
on the orchard line, make the distance at least forty
feet). Remember that when you come to work the
orchard, you will want plenty of room on the outer
edges, — to turn the team, the h nrrow , or the wagon.
The square system of planting is easiest and
therefore most commonly used. Trees should be set
exactly straight, because this adds to the looks of
the orchard and facilitates cultivation. Here is an
excellent method of staking and planting : Begin by
using a small rope or wire, stretching this from one
base-line to the corresponding stake on the opposite
side ; then put in small pegs along its entire length,
the distance apart at which it is intended to plant the
trees. After the whole orchard has been so laid out,
take a double-staking board having three V-shaped
notches in it. This board may be about four feet long
and perhaps four inches wide ; any thickness desired.
Start at the first peg and place board so that the stake
fits in the centre notch, — then remove this stake and
put it in the notch made at one end of the board, and
put another stake in the notch in the opposite end of
the board ; and continue until the whole orchard is
double-staked in this way. A hole can now be dug
between each two stakes. To do the planting the
32
BIGGIvE ORCHARD BOOK
staking-board is again brought into requisition and
placed over the hole, so that the two stakes fit into
the notches at the end. Then the young tree is held
so that its trunk fits into the centre notch, — just where
the single stake stood befoj^e the double-staking took
place. In either double-staking or planting always
work from one end of the row to the other, and
always keep the centre notch of the board facing away
I from you. If one is careful
in performing this work it is
sure to turn out well. This
sounds like a complicated oper-
ation, perhaps ; but really it is
very simple and easy in practise.
The picture plainly shows how
the board is made and used, and
it is hardly necessary to add that
each tree is to be held exactly in
place in the notch until most of
the soil is shoveled into the hole
and firmed securely in place.
Number of trees required for an acre :
STAKING-BOARD IN USE
If set 12 feet apart, 302 trees.
If set 16K feet apart, 160 trees.
If set 18 feet apart, 134 trees.
If set 20 feet apart, 108 trees.
If set 25 feet apart 70 trees.
If set 30 feet apart, 48 trees.
If set 36 feet apart, 33 trees.
If set 40 feet apart, 27 trees.
(NOTK : The foregoing- figures are based on the square system
of planting. If the triangular method is used, about one-eighth
more trees can be set on each acre.)
SETTING TREES 33
The one objection to planting in squares, says
Lowell B. Jndson, Idaho Experiment Station, is that
it does not cover the ground uniformly with trees ; for
instance, A is farther from D, and B from C, than A
from B or C, or B from D or A, — making a waste of
^ g space in the middle of the square. (See
|\. "/l illustration.) This is sometimes utilized
I \(^ \ by planting a tree there, such as a peach
■y^ \; or some quick-bearing or short-lived tree,
*^ ° temporarily to occupy the ground ; but this
results in crowding, in a very few years.
The best scheme forgetting the maximum number
of trees at a given distance apart on the land, is the
hexagon or triangle system (sometimes called the
septuple system) , which makes every tree exactly
the same distance from each of its neighbors. The
accompanying diagram shows the arrangement, and
the dotted lines make plain the triangles and hexa-
gons. If each tree is joined to each of its neighbors
by a straight line, a network of triangles will be
formed, and each group of six triangles around each
tree forms a hexagon with a tree ^ p^
in the centre. There are several / / \
ways of laying out an orchard on ^'. ^ .■^■;. ^.
this plan, the most expeditious \
being to use a wire. The end stakes V
of the second row are most easily
found by means of a wire triangle, /
each side of which is as long as the triangle system
desired distance between trees. of planting
Thomas Meehan gives the following directions for
planting fruit trees received from a nursery, and he
34
BIGGI.E; ORCHARD BOOK
has cov^ered all the points so well that I can not do
better than to quote his method :
"Quickly unpack stock upon arrival; shake out
packing material ; dip the roots in liquid mud. In
case stock cannot be immediately set
out, prepare a place where it can be tem-
porarily planted, taking care to cover
roots thoroughly, working the soil in
among the fibres. Dig generous holes,
provide good soil to fill
TREE SET TOO tlicm ; dou't bend roots;
HIGH cleanly cut off severely
TOO LOW AND
IN A HOLLOW
l)ruised or broken roots, and never let
them dry. Dip them in mud, place in
hole, throw good soil in hole, tightly
ramming it around roots after each
shovelful. Leave no air-pockets. After
hole is filled, cover top of ground thick-
ly with good, well-rotted stable manure
as far as roots extend. ' '
Look out for crown'' and root galls.
Burn all such trees. Crown gall is a
common disease in many nurseries and
it attacks all kinds of fruit trees. It is
the worst kind of folly
to plant a tree which
has a trace of this disease, for not
only is the tree pretty sure to die be-
fore it comes into full bearing but the
infection may be spread to all parts
of the orchard. If galls (knotty,
TREE SET
bunchy swellings) are found at the properly
ROOTS BADLY
BUNCHED
TOGETHER
SETTING TREES 35
base of tree triuik^ the trouble is probably the fun-
gous disease called crown gall ; if found on the roots
of apple trees, an insect called the woolly aphis is to
blame.
USEFUI, SIDE SHOOTS,
A tree out of place is a nuisance ; in its place it is a blessing.
Do not let manure come in direct contact with the roots of
young trees. Apply manure as a mulch.
An assistant is very helpful when setting trees. Two men,
or a man and a boy, can work together to good advantage.
Better not dig holes much in advance of the tree -setting.
Soil dries out quickly, and roots need moist earth around them.
Thrifty young trees are more apt to live than the larger, older
ones. Young roots are smaller, and more apt to be all taken
up in transplanting.
How deep should trees be set in the ground ? A little deeper
than they were set when growing in the nursery. J)eep enough
so that the joint between stock and scion is covered.
For measuring purposes a wire is better than a rope or cord,
because it will not stretch. Stick a bit of solder on the wdre,
exactly where each tree is to come. String or bits of cloth tied
on, are apt to slip.
As the tree-setting progresses, it is a good plan often to
"sight" the rows across from side to side, both ways, to make
sure that everything is exactly straight. The eye is an excellent
detector of unsuspected crooks in rows.
In exposed situations or in windy localities, it is a good plan
to incline the newly-set tree slightly toward the northwest or
whichever point of the compass the strong winds come from.
The trees will straighten as they grow.
One or two old blankets will come in handy when setting
trees. As fast as an armful of trees is dug from the heeling-in
place, wrap the roots in a blanket until all are planted. Don't
let the roots lie around in sun and wind, unprotected.
36 biggi^e; orchard book
r
The safest way when buying- fruit trees is to dip them in the
lime-sulphur mixture before setting them or heeling them in.
Do this as a matter of precaution against the San Jose scale
louse. The best way to fight this pest is to fight it from the very
beginning.
Farm Journal says: "The other day we saw Peter Tumble-
down on his way home with a load of loose fruit trees from a local
nursery. TJie wind was blowing, the sun was hot, the trees were
unprotected by even a blanket. Next year Peter will be finding
fault with the luirseryman because the trees are no good."
How not to plant trees : " Dig a hole, do not trouble about its
depth nor the space that will be required for the roots. If the
soil consists of brickbats, it will do ! Select a tree that is sure to
be too big for its place in a short time. You can then cut off its
branches and make it look like a real work of art, such as a
clothes-prop or a gibbet. Plant the trees as thickly as possible,
and forget to thin them out. You will then produce an imme-
diate effect, and you will have the satisfaction of witnessing a
fight — and appreciating a struggle for existence. Having planted
your tree, stake it in such a way that the stem may be snapped
off ; this will give the wind something to do. Never think of
removing the stake or loosening its ties — that would involve too
much trouble. Avoid placing any guard around the newly-
planted trees. In this way you will provide fodder for your
neighbor's horse, which will graze contentedly on the bark ;
and you will provide healthful amusement for the boys, who
■will playfully score the bark with their knives." My good wife
Harriet clipped these rules from an old publication, and she
says that they are full of "contrary usefulness."
PLATE III
REN DAVIS
RHODE ISLAND GREENING
Chapter IV.
PRUNING AND EARLY CARE OF
NEWIvY-SET TREES.
Take care of your orchard and your orchard will take care of
you. — Harriet.
The newly-set tree must quickly be pruned. As it
stood in the nursery row there was approximately a
balance between the top and the roots, the latter being
just about enough, under the conditions of that soil,
to supply what moisture and nourishment the leaves
and branches needed. P^vidently if half of the roots
were suddenly removed this equilibrium would be
destroyed, and each leaf would show its distress at the
decreased sap pressure, by wilting, and the weaker
ones would probably die.
Now, that is essentially the condition of the nursery
tree ; no matter how carefully it was dug, many of its
fine feeding roots are sure to have broken off, or have
dried up ; and until it can re-establish its relations
with the soil, and put out new roots to take the place
of those destroyed, it is totally unable to support and
nourish the original amount of top. The fine root-
hairs, which appear like fuzz near the tips of the
smaller roots, and do most of the absorbing for the
roots, dry out almost instantly on exposure to air, and
are practically all destroyed in transplanting. It
takes some time to form these anew, and if the whole
top is left to " leaf out" during the process, the rapid
(37)
38
BIGGI.E ORCHARD BOOK
TOO HIGH
CUTTING
TOO LOW CORRECT
evaporation from so many points will result in disas-
trous drying of the whole tree.
That can be avoided by cutting back the top to
correspond with the roots, thus reducing evaporation
to the point where they can supply the loss. In the
case of the yearling whip without side branches, it is
sufficient to cut it off at the height at which it is
intended the leader shall start out — (gay about two or
three feet above grouncO
Always cut to a bud^
making a sloping cut
which leaves not more
than a quarter of an
inch projecting beyond
the bud. During the
summer all the buds
along the side will de-
velop branches ; all the lower ones and those not in-
tended to form the main framework of the tree must
be pinched off, otherwise the lower branches may
make a shrub of your tree. Aim to throw all_ the
strength of the growth into the required main
branches.
Branched, or two-year-old trees, require a different
style of pruning after being set. The lower limbs
have generally been cut off by the nurserymen before
the tree reaches the planter, so the height of the
"head" is, in a sense, already fixed. What remains
to be done is to choose three, four or five limbs to
form the future framework of the tree. These should
come out from the trunk in different directions, dis-
tributed as evenly as possible ; and, if feasible, no
TO " A BUD
PRUNING : CARE OF NEWI^Y-SET TREES
39
READY TO PRUNE
NEWLY-SET APPLE
TREE
two branches should come out exactly opposite each
other, or a weak crotch will be formed which may-
break and split at some critical
time. Severely cut back the
chosen^ limbs and (remove all
other limbs.l Bach of the re-
maining limbs should now be
about six or eight inches long ;
usually with the terminal bud
pointing outward on Qnch.. (If
the variety's habit of growth is
naturally very spreading it is
sometimes best to correct this
tendency, by cutting to terminal
buds which point inward.)
Forms of Heads. — The
apple, peach, plum, quince, sour cherry, and similar
r trees, frequently seem best adapted
to the open -centre, spreading,
standard form. In such cases a cen-
tral leading shoot is not needed or
wanted. This matter is more or less
a matter of choice. Some folks
prefer a ' ' leader, ' ' others do not.
The sweet cherry, pear, etc.,
often seem best suited to the up-
right, central -leader form. In
such instances it is usual to have
this main shoot a little longer
SAME APPLE TREE tliuu tlic sidc branclies, — with its
Il^yj'J''''!' °^^''- terminal bud pointing toward the
CENTRE, STANDARD , f b
FORM direction of prevailing high wdnds.
40
BIGGI^E ORCHARD BOOK
NEWLY-SKT PKACH
TREE, BEFORE
PRUNING
Pruning Peach Trees. — It is customary to prune
newly-set peach trees differently from most other trees.
Whether the nursery tree is a
branchless whip, or a well-branched
tree, the entire top should be cut
off at the point where a new head
is wanted. If any branches remain
below that point, those, also, are
cutoff, — not too closely, however;
'tis usually better to leave stubs
about an inch in length, so as not
to injure the remaining bud.
Some peach growers cut off their
trees at a uniform height of about
one and one-half feet ; others pre-
fer a height of two, or two and
one-half, or even three feet. The decision depends
somewhat on the size of the trees, and the grower's
personal preference ; but there is no doubt that the
lowest possible head, consistent r
with future cultivation, is most
desirable. Two feet, or two feet
and a quarter, is perhaps a happy
medium.
The " StringeeivI
Oafs
Corn
milk
1 t
A little lesson in fertility : The size of these blocks
shows the coDipai-ative quantities of soil fertility
(nitrogen, potash, and phosphoric acid) removed from
the farm by the selling of various home-grown prod-
ucts. The growing of wheat or beef draws heaviest
on the soil ; butter or fruits, lightest. Remem-
ber, too, that most of the fertility removed by
fruits is contained in the seeds or the pit, — the
CUI.TIVATION. FERTILIZATION. THINNING 57
KACHES TOO THICK ON THl
EIGHTEEN-IXCH BRAXCH
fruits themselves are largel}'
water. And that brings us
to the important subject of
Thinning Fruits. — If
we can annually reduce the
number of seeds (or pits)
which a tree endeavors to
grow, we remove a great vital
drain upon the strength of peaches too thick on this
both tree and soil. "We save
fertilizer, and we save tree vitality. Incidentalh', we
accomplish equally important secondary results. By
removing, say, one-half of the bab}' fruit on a tree,
the remainder is enabled to grow to larger and more
profitable size ; and next season the tree, not having
exhausted itself the previous year, is in proper con-
dition to bear another full crop. In brief, systematic
thinning increases the value of the crop, and helps
to insure full crops ez'erv year.
The time to do the work is after the June drop is
about over and before the seeds or pits have hardened.
Often it is necessary to pull off, by hand, almost two-
thirds of the fruit on a heavil}' set tree ; yet, strange
as it may seem to those who have not tried it, the
remaining one-third, at pick-
ing time, will fill almost as
many bushels as the fruit of
a similar tree unthinned.
Which would be most profit-
able, ten bushels of "medi-
ums ' ' or eight or nine bushels
of ' ' extra large " ? It f re-
quentlv pays to hire help to
same branch properly 1 ^, ' ,, . .
thinned do the thinning.
58 BIGGI.K ORCHARD BOOK
NOTEBOOK JOTTINGS.
Cultivation should be shallow — two or three inches at most.
A rope or handle to the harrow helps to gritide the implement.
If you grow^ cultivated crops in a young" orchard, never let
the crop come closer than four feet to any tree trunk.
Many orchardists say: "Don't plow or cultivate fruit trees
while they are in blossom. May cause the embryo fruit to drop."
When appljdng fertilizer, remember that a tree's root area is
usually as large around, or larger, than its top area. Don't pile
tree food around the trunk, — spread it farther out.
Use a one-horse plow for the first two or three rounds along
a tree row. Do this to all the rows. Then change to a two-horse
plow, and finish the job. This makes easier, closer work.
If jou decide to mulch, do it right. Don't permit yourself
to mow the grass which pushes through the mulch, and then
remove the clippings. I,et the mowed grass lie en the mulch.
Whj' should cultivation usually cease about August first?
So as to allow the new growth to stop growing and harden up in
proper mature condition for the winter. The new wood on late
cultivated trees is more apt to winter-kill.
Muzzle the horses when plowing or cultivating around trees.
Yes, and don't forget to pad the outer end of each whiffletree.
Pad the outer edges of the harrow, too. But if a tree is acciden-
tally " barked," bandage the wound with cow manure and burlap.
Rules for thinning fruit: Remove all wormy, crooked or
otherwise inferior specimens. Only the best specimen in each
cluster should be allowed to remain. Remaining fruits should
not be closer together than five or six inches apart. Properly
thinned trees need no props.
I,earn how to harrow an orchard so as to cover practically all
the ground. Harrow lengthwise one time, crosswise another
time, and diagonally the third time ; then repeat. A careful
driver will thus leave only a few inches of untouched ground
around each tree trunk — and a hand hoe easily finishes that.
Sometimes it is desirable to "seed down" to grass, for a
year or so, a thrifty, well-grown pear, apple or cherry orchard.
Plum, peach or dwarf pear, never. And, in any case, such a
course is seldom best until the trees have reached the bearing
age; then, a temporary seeding down may be beneficial, — first,
because it may induce quicker f ruitfulness by checking growth ;
or, second, it may prevent the bark-burst or pear blight which a
too rapid growth sometimes promotes.
PLATE VI
SPRAYED FRUIT
NOT SPRAYED
Chapter VII.
SPRAYING.
Spray, fartners, spray ivith care.
Spray the apple, Peach and pear ;
Spray for scab, and spray for blight.
Spray, oh sPray, and do it right.
Yes, that's the entire secret — "Do it right!"
Every year there is a great deal of spraying that does,
very little good. jVIany individuals go through the
operation and simply waste time and money. I have
observed that unless the operator is very careful there
will be fruits and even large areas on the trees, left
unsprayed. In many cases the operator sprays the
lower limbs of the trees heav-
ily, but the topmost twigs, and
even the centre, are left dry,
and then he wonders why
spraying does not produce
better results.
If you are a fruit-grower —
actual or prospective — make
up your mind to the fact that
a good spraying outfit is just
as important to your success
as a plow or a pruning saw.
The kind of an outfit which
you require depends, of course,
on the size of your orchard. If
there are only a few trees, of
(59)
FOR A FEW TREES, NOT
TOO LARGE, THIS COM-
PRESSED-AIR SPRAYER
IS ALL RIGHT
60
BIGGI.E ORCHARD BOOK
medium size, perhaps one of the new-style, com-
pressed-air, shoulder-strap sprayers (sold by seeds-
men and implement dealers) will answer the purpose.
Or if the trees are large or numerous, you may require
a barrel or tank
outfit, mounted on
the farm wagon
and worked by
hand ; or perhaps
your require-
ments may neces-
sitate one of the
power outfits
which are oper-
ated by either a
gasoline engine,
geared connec-
tion with wagon
wheels, or compressed gas in cylinders. ^
Before deciding upon a pump, or buying one, take
a bit of the same advice that Harriet once gave to
me: "Write to advertisers in the Farm Journal or
other farm papers, get their catalogs and price lists,
and then study, compare, and decide."
A good pump should work easily, maintain a
steady spray from one or several nozzles, be simple
in construction, have non-corrosive brass working
parts, be durable and able to stand hard use, be
easily taken to pieces for repair, have pipes properly
arranged to prevent clogging, and be provided with
an agitator which keeps the solution in vigorous
motion and thoroughly distributed. Judging a pump
POWER SPRAYING FOR LARGK
ORCHARDS
SPRAYING 61
by cheapness alone often proves poor economy. For
a very finely divided spray the Vermorel nozzle seems
the best of any tested at the Station, says F. H. Hall,
Geneva, N. Y., and that form should be chosen which
is provided with a joint between ^ ^
nozzle chamber and elbow, to \ /
allow easy access in case of \ /
clogging. For spraying at V^w
some distance the McGowen /m^^^^
nozzle is useful, and the double ^/f | lfiiL-|\
Vermorel is adapted for thor- / j|fif^p''|\ \
ough, rapid work. A light bam- ^^^^^j^^'^f^^^S
boo pole, enclosing a brass tube ^^^^^^^^^^-"^^^^"'^
J Ci-i 1 -it. BARREL SPRAYER —
and fitted with proper connec- suited to medium-sizk
tions, seems the lightest and orchards
simplest means for raising the nozzles ; this with a
light framework tower erected in the wagon or cart
upon which the operator may stand, will usually
afford sufficient elevation for even tall trees.
Spraying mixtures are divided into two classes :
Fungicides and insecticides. Often, however, it is
practicable to unite the two into one spray — and thus
fight both fungus and insects at the one operation.
A mixture of Bordeaux solution and an arsenical
poison, is a good example of such a combination.
Bordeaux mixture is the best and most useful of all
known fungicides for general use.
Bordeaux IMixture. — Four pounds of sulphate
of copper, four pounds of quicklime, fifty gallons
of water. First, dissolve the copper sulphate. The
easiest, quickest way to do this, is to put it into a
coarse cloth bag and suspend the bag in a receptacle
62
BIGGLE ORCHARD BOOK
COJPEC SULPHATE LI
partl}^ filled with water. Next, slake the lime in a
tub, and strain the luilk of lime thus obtained into
another receptacle. Now get
someone to help you, and, with
buckets, siinnltancously pour
the two liquids into the spray-
ing barrel or tank. Lastly, add
MAKING BORDEAUX sufficieut Water to make fifty
gallons. ( For making this mixture on a large scale,
an elevated platform — with pipes, etc., as shown in
cut — is very handy.) 'Tis safe to use this full-
strength Bordeaux on almost
all foliage, — except on peach
trees, Japanese plums, and
similar tender trees. For
these it is wiser to iise the
following half-strength mix-
ture :
Half-strength Bordeaux :
Two pounds of copper sul-
phate, two pounds of quicklime, fift}' gallons of water.
Bordeaux Combined with Insect Poison. — By
adding one-quarter pound of Paris green to each fifty
gallons of either of the Bordeaux formulas, the mix-
ture becomes a combined fungicide a)id insecticide.
Or, instead of Paris green, add about two pounds of
arsenate of lead (an excellent commercial form of this,
called " Disparene, " is for sale by seedsmen). The
advantages of arsenate of lead, over Paris green, are,
first, it is not apt to burn foliage even if used in
rather excessive quantities ; and, second, it "sticks"
to the foliage, etc., better and longer. I believe that
it is the best form in which to use arsenical poison.
ELEVATED PLANT FOR
MAKING BORDEAUX ON A
LARGE SCALE
SPRAYING 63
Insecticides. — Sometimes it may be desirable to
apply a treatment for insects alone, without the bother
of making the regulation Bordeaux. Here are a few
standard formulas suited for chewing insects :
Paris green : Two pounds of quicklime, one-quarter
pound of Paris green, fifty gallons of water. Keep
mixture well agitated while spraj-ing. (Xot so safe
as arsenate of lead on tender foliage of peach, etc. j
Arsenate of lead : This can be made at home, as
follows : Take twelve ounces of acetate of lead, four
ounces of arsenate of soda, and fifty gallons of water.
Put the acetate of lead into a gallon of water in a
wooden pail ; in another wooden pail put the arsenate
of soda in two quarts of water, \^'hen both are
dissolved, pour them together into the spray tank
containing the required amoimt of water. A white
precipitate of lead arsenate immediately forms in the
tank and the mixture is ready to be applied. This
remains in suspension longer than Paris green.
For Sucking Insects. — Xow we come to another
class of insecticides, suited to insects which suck a
tree's juices but do not chew. Arsenic will not kill
such i)ests ; therefore we nmst resort to solutions
which kill by contact. Here are some of the best-
known recipes of this kind :
Kerosene emulsion : One-half pound of hard or
one quart of soft soap ; kerosene, two gallons ; boiling
soft water, one gallon. If hard soap is used, slice it
fine and dissolve in water by boiling ; add the boil-
ing solution (away from the fire) to the kerosene, and
stir or violently churn for from five to eight minutes,
until the mixture assumes a creamy consistency. If
64 BIGGIvE ORCHARD BOOK
a spray pump is at hand, pump the mixture back upon
itself with considerable force for about five minutes.
Keep this as a stock. It must be further diluted with
soft water before using. One part of emulsion to
fifteen parts of water, is about right for lice.
Whale-oil soap solution : Dissolve one pound of
whale-oil soap in a gallon of hot water, and dilute
with about six gallons of cold water. This is a good
application for the young lice of the oyster-shell and
scurfy scale (see Chapter VIII) , or for aphis.
Tobacco tea : This solution may be prepared by
placing five pounds of tobacco stems in a water-tight
vessel, and then covering them with three gallons of
hot water. Allow to stand several hours ; dilute the
liquor by adding about seven gallons of water. Strain
and apply. Good for lice (aphis) on foliage.
SpeciaIv Remarks. — No attempt has been made
in this chapter to cover the various fungous troubles
and insect pests which do damage to orchards and
fruit, — such topics being more appropriately treated
in the chapters on The Apple, The Pear, etc. There
you will find special directions which fit the special
pests which prey on each kind of fruit. Scale insects
have a chapter all to themselves.
Tim wants me to say that fungicides are not cures,
but preventives. "Therefore," he concludes, "the
early bird catches the germ." By which he means,
of course, that the sprayer should begin early in the
season, — before fungous trouble has really beg^n.
** Yes, " adds Harriet, " and he should repeat the good
work several times, at intervals of two or three weeks
apart. ' '
SPRAYING 65
HElioiher apple. — Tim.
This Splendid fruit is almost as ' ' old as the hills. ' '
King Solomon appreciated good apples. And charred
remains of apples have been found in prehistoric
dwellings in Europe. Southwestern Asia is where
this fruit originated. Harriet says that it is the ' ' best
job that Asia ever did, " and I agree with her.
Propagation. — Apples can be propagated either
by grafting or budding, the former method being
most commonly used by nurserymen. Whip grafts
on seedling roots are often employed. But there are
several ways of obtaining good trees for setting. jVIy
friend, Wilnier Atkinson, says: "If I were to plant
another apple orchard, I should buy Northern Spy
nursery trees, set them, and cut off and cleft -graft
(after the tree is set) each trunk at the point where
the first branches are wanted, — using scions cut from
thrifty bearing trees of knoicn variety and productive-
ness.''' To Mr. Atkinson's excellent plan I might add
that if a man has time, and can't afford to buy the
trees, he might grow Spy seedling trees and then
graft them — thus saving the nursery bill.
SEI.ECTING Nursery Trees. — Two-year-old,
straight, medium - size, healthy trees are about right.
See that they are not branched too high ; three or four
feet should be the limit.
(81)
82
BIGGI.E) ORCHARD BOOK
i .M^k- ■
■ . !
;X>
V-_^;
-s-^VS
3/m
M^lfe^^'^f^'^C
^9
BhhI
i
11
Soii^S. — Almost any soil will do for the apple
orchard, provided that it be somewhat elevated and
sufficiently well
drained. Very
light sand, or
swampy muck,
would be least
desirable; a
loamy clay soil,
most desirable.
Varieties
Which are
Often Sei.e-
MAY'S PROMISE S T E R I Iv E .
* ' Bellflower, Primate, Spitzenburg, Willow Twig,
Winesap, " says Cornell Experiment Station. Some
other varieties might be added to this list. In fact,
the only safe way is to mix the planting, and to
include some of the more self-fertile-blossom kinds, —
such as ' ' Baldwin, Ben Davis, Fallawater, Jannet,
Oldenburg, Rhode Island Greening,
Astrachan, Smith's Cider, " etc. (And
even some of these are self-sterile in
some localities and under some cir-
cumstances ! So I again say, ' ' Mix. ")
Pruning. — Apple trees should be
■cut back (so as not to grow too high) ,
thinned out (so as to let sunshine and
air into the head) , and trimmed up
(to permit of necessary horse cultiva-
tion) . For general pruning directions, see Chapter V.
Moderate, regular trimming is preferable to heavy,
AUTUMN'S
FULFILLMENT
THE APPI,E 83
irregular trimming. The apple produces its fruit on
twigs or fruit spurs which are at least three or four
years old.
PrincipaIv Insect Pests. — Aphis (lice) on
leaves. Remedy : Spray with tobacco solution when
lice first hatch out and before they are hidden by curl
of leaves.
Apple maggot : A tiny worm which tunnels the
fruit in all directions. Remedy : Promptly pick up
and destroy or feed to the stock all windfalls.
Apple-twig borer : A tiny blackish beetle which
bores into terminal twigs near buds. Infested twigs
often wilt and die. No good remedy is known, except
to cut off all such twigs, not later than July, and burn
them.
Borers: Two kinds — "round-headed" and "flat-
headed." See Chapter IX for borer remedies.
Bud worm : A little caterpillar that attacks buds,
blossoms and starting leaves. Remedy : Arsenical
spray when buds begin to open.
Buffalo tree-hopper : A small greenish insect about
one-third of an inch long, that punctures the twigs,
causing a peculiar scarred appearance. Remedy :
Cut off the injured twigs and burn.
Codling moth : 'Tis estimated that one-half of
America's apple crop is annually ruined by the cod-
ling moth. This is the pest that causes ' ' wormy apple-
cores. " The moth seldom flies except at night, and
therefore few fruit-growers have ever seen one.
About the time that the blossoms are falling, this
moth appears and glues its eggs on or near the min-
iature apples. In about a week these eggs hatch.
84 BIGGI.E; ORCHARD BOOK
and, as a rule, each little apple worm soon finds its
way directly into the upright, open, cup-like blos-
som end on top of an apple. Here it hides and feeds
for several days — then it bores its way into the apple
to the core. The time to fight this pest is when it is
feeding on the outside of the apple ^ in the little ctip-
like cradle. A drop or two of poison then applied
will quickly kill the worm and thus save the apple ;
whereas if the fight is delayed until it has really
enter ^d the apple, no outward application of poison
can affect it. ' The falling of the blossoms
is the signal to begin spraying; the clos-
ing of the calyx lobes a week or two later
is the signal to stop
spraying. ' ' The Bor-
deaux-arsenical spray
,, - , . STOP SPRAYING"
"begin is excellent tor this
SPRAYING purpose. Two applications — a week apart
— are advised. Banding the trees, and promptly
destroying all windfall apples, are measures which
are also of help.
Canker worm : This " looping" or " measuring"
caterpillar feeds upon the foliage and is often very
destructive. Remedies : Sticky bands of tar, printers'
ink, or fly-paper, placed around each tree trunk in
early spring to prevent the ascent of the egg-laying
moths ; an arsenical spray all over trees where
worms have hatched.
Curculio : A hump-backed beetle about an eighth
of an inch long (related to the plum curculio, but with
a longer snout) which sometimes stings young apples.
Remedy : Arsenical spray.
THE APPIvE 85
Leaf roller, leaf cruinpler, and leaf skeletonizer :
These three pests can be killed with an arsenical
spray.
Scale lice : San Jose, oyster-shell, and scurfy. See
Chapter VIII for remedies.
Tent-caterpillar: The well-known "nest" worm
found on trees in early summer. Remedies : Tie a
piece of cloth around one end of a long stick, saturate
the cloth with kerosene, ignite, and with this torch
quickly burn each silky tent of worms ; do this in
early morning or just before nightfall, so as to be
sure that all the worms are "at home " ; an arsenical
spray is also helpful.
Woolly aphis : There are two forms of this insect ;
one attacks the roots, as told in Chapter III; the
other occurs in masses of white, woolly substance on
the limbs and trunks. Beneath each woolly mass will
be found a number of yellowish lice. Remedies :
Kerosene emulsion, tobacco solution, or scalding hot
water.
Principai, Fungous Pests. — Powdery mildew:
Whitish blotches sometimes found, about midsummer,
on terminal shoots and leaves, wdiich soon spread
over most of the new growth. Remedy : Bordeaux
mixture.
Rot : This trouble is also called ' ' bitter rot, " " ripe
rot, " " apple rot, ' ' etc. ; it attacks the fruit before the
ripening period, caiising decayed brown spots ; usually
the infected speciiiiens drop to the ground, although
some of them * shrivel up and stay on the tree all
winter, thus carrying the fungous spores to the next
year's crop. Remedies : Destroy fallen fruit ; remove
86 BIGGI.E ORCHARD BOOK
and burn all mummied apples which stay on the trees
in the fall ; spray with the Bordeaux mixture early in
the season. (Note : There is another form of rot
which is called ' ' pink rot. ' ' Bordeaux is the remedy. )
Rust : A fungns which sometimes blisters the
leaves with orange-colored spots, and which usually
originates on cedar trees. Remedies : Spray or cut
down any cedars which may be near the apple orchard ;
spray the orchard with Bordeaux.
Scab: This is sometimes called "black spot"; it
produces the well-known scabby places upon apples ;
it also affects the new shoots and leaves, causing- black
blotches thereon, — and often the early spring leaves
are thus blighted ; young apples shrivel and drop
from the tree ; mature apples are seriously disfigured.
Remedy : Bordeaux, several sprayings at intervals of
about two weeks, beginning before buds open.
Twig blight : This apple disease is similar in
nature to the well-known "fire blight" of the pear;
affected terminal twigs (including leaves, flowers or
fruit thereon) turn black or brown, and die. The
only known remedy is to cut out the diseased parts,
and burn. (See pear blight, Chapter XIII.) This
trouble comes and goes, and is worse some years than
others.
Misckl,iTTTTrA the fruit shortly after blossoming time.
(enlarged) It makes crescent-shape punctures and
deposits eggs therein. These soon hatch into little
grubs. IVIost of the stung fruit falls off the tree
THE PIvUM 109
before ripe. The ciirculio is sometimes called the
" Little Turk, " on account of the crescent-shape trade
mark it leaves on fruit ; in size, this insect is about
three-sixteenths of an inch in length. Remedies :
Bordeaux-arsenical mixture sprayed on trees just
before blossoms open ; repeat the same after blossoms
fall ; repeat, once or twice more, at intervals of a week.
Destroy all fallen fruit. Also, a flock of chickens in
a plum orchard is a great help. But the surest one
remedy is the jarring process. Rig up a cloth-covered
frame (like an inverted umbrella) , mount it on wheels,
and jar the curculios into it so they can be collected
and killed (see picture). The jarring is best done
(during the cool of early morn-
ing) by tapping the tree briskly
with a padded, long-handled
mallet. The insects, sluggish
with cold or heavy with dew,
drop into the frame below,
instead of flying away. This jarring process should
be repeated every morning or so, as long as the
curculios are plentiful.
Plum gouger : A small snout -beetle without a
hump on its back. ]\Iuch like the curculio in its
habits and the effect on the fruit. It punctures the
fruit, but does not make a crescent -shape mark.
Remedies are the same as advised for curculio.
Plum scale : Consult Chapter VIII.
San Jose scale louse : Consult Chapter VIII.
PrincipaIv Fungous Pests. — Black knot: See
Chapter XI. These dark, warty - looking knots or
bunches on branches need prompt attention.
110 BIGGI.E ORCHARD BOOK
Brown rot : Consult Chapter XI.
Leaf -blight or spot: Often called "shot -hole"
fungus. See Chapter XI.
Plum pockets : A fungous disease which causes
the fruit to become distorted, enlarged and unhealthy ;
finally it turns dark in color, becomes wrinkled, and
drops off the tree. No pits are found in these diseased
fruits. Remedies : Early sprayings with Bordeaux ;
prune the trees and cut off as much as possible of the
wood which bears diseased fruit.
Combination Spraying System. — For most
insects (except borers, lice, etc.), and all fungous
pests, I suggest that you turn to Chapter XII and
use the complete system there advocated for peaches.
Bark -Burst, Sun-Scai,d, Gum. — See Chapters
IX, XI and XII.
Varieties. — Those marked with a star are espe-
cially suited for market.
R. O. Graham, an Illinois plum grower, has had best success
with : *Wild Goose ; *Miner ; *Wolf ; *De vSoto.
E. ly. Mason, Missouri, has had good sviccess with : *Green
Gage ; *L,ombard ; *Niagara ; *.Shipper's Pride ; *Damson ; etc.
For Alabama, Mississippi, etc., W. H. Ragan recommends:
*Chabot ; *Cumberland ; *Golden Beauty ; Red June ; Yellow
Transparent ; *Abundance ; *Burbank ; *Kelsej' ; etc.
For a commercial orchard in New^ York, George T. Powell
recommends : *Reine Claude ; *Giant Prune : *Peter's Yellow
Gage ; *Quackenboss ; *Fellemberg ; *German Prune.
For Pennsylvania, Ohio, Michigan, Connecticut, etc., Pomol-
ogistW. H. Ragan suggests: *Reine Claude (Bavay's Green Gage);
*Bradshaw ; *Coe's Golden Drop ; *Danison ; Black Diamond ;
*German Prune ; *Grand Duke ; Gueii ; Imperial Gage ; Yellow
^gg; *Fellemberg (Italian Prune); *L,ombard; *Quackenboss ; etc.
PLATE XV
DUCHESS
ANJOU
Chapter XV.
THE QUINCE AND DWARF PEAR.
They arenH big trees, but there'' s a lot of them to the acre.
Quince culture, except in a small way, is not very
popular. A few commercial orchards are to be found,
here and there, and the fruit brings fair prices when-
ever the supply is not overlarge. As the fruit is
practically uneatable in a raw state, it is in demand
only for canning, for marmalade, etc., and for flavor-
ing preserves, etc. There is no more beautiful sight
than a quince tree in blossom. Every family should
have at least a few of the trees.
Propagation. — Any one of several methods may
be used : Budding, with quince seedlings for stock ;
grafting, on apple roots; layering; and making cut-
tings of ripened wood for planting (in nursery rows)
like currant or grape cuttings. Cuttings should be
taken in the fall, in about ten-inch lengths, tied in
bundles, and stored away like scions until spring. Or
they may be planted in the fall, and protected with
mulch, I do not recommend layering.
CuivTURAi, Hints. — Quinces do best on a moist
(but well underdrained) clay-loam. However, they
will grow fairly well on almost any soil which is not
too wet. Thorough tillage is desirable. But remem-
ber that these trees are shallow rooted ; do not plow
too deep. Winter cover crops of some kind are
essential ; they help to keep the roots from frost
(111)
112 BIGGI.E: ORCHARD BOOK
injury. Pruning- should be systematic. Head back
the new growth in the spring, or thin it out, or both,
— as may be required to maintain a shapely, well-
balanced tree. There is no sense in thinking that
quinces must necessarily be straggling, misshapen
bushes. Start with a straight stem two feet high,
have the head open and well branched, — and you can
make the tree as shapely as you please. The fruit is
produced on little shoots which grow in spring on
wood that is at least two years old. Keep all suckers
cut off from around the trunk.
Principai, Insect and Fungous Pksts. — The
codling moth, the quince curculio, the round-headed
apple-tree borer, the pear-tree slug and the pear-tree
blister mite, all bother quince trees more or less.
Remedies have been given in preceding chapters.
There, too, you will find hints about leaf blight, rust,
rot, twig blight and fire blight, — all of which are well-
known enemies of the quince. The quince shovild
be frequently sprayed with the Bordeaux-arsenical
mixture to keep trees and fruit healthy.
Varieties. — Comparatively few kinds are grown.
Probably the best, for almost any locality, would be :
Orange ; Rea ; Meech ; Champion.
DWARF PEAR.
If properly grown and caretl for, these trees are
thrifty, productive, long-lived and profitable. But if
neglected, they are equally short-lived and worthless.
I know of several dwarf-pear orchards that are now
twenty to forty years old, which began bearing fruit
when about four years old, and which are still healthy
THE QUINCE AND DWARF PEAR 113
and productive. They have rarely if ever missed a
crop.
Propagation. — By budding the pear on quince
seedlings, dwarf-growing pear trees result. But the
fruit is not dwarfed ; on the contrary, it is unusually
large and fine, and the trees come into bearing much
sooner than standard pears.
CUI.TURAI, Hints. — The best soil is a moist clay
or clay-loam soil, thoroughly underdrained. Cultiva-
tion, fertilization, spraying, pruning, etc., must be
A MICHIGAN DWARF-PEAR ORCHARD
systematic and thorough. Unlike the standard pear^
the dwarf never does even "fairly well" in sod.
When setting the trees, be sure to set them very
deep, — so that the butl joint will be, say, six inches
114 BIGGI^E ORCHARD BOOK
below the surface. If thus set the trees are less likely
to break off at the joint (which is always a weak spot
in dwarf pears) ; and, too, deep setting- will encourage
the pear wood to send out some roots of its own,
which adds to the vigor and stability of the trees.
Pruning. — Dwarf pears need a great deal of trim-
ming, — principally " cutting back. " And they need
it regularly each year. About two-thirds or three-
quarters of the new growth should be cut off annually,
— making the cut each time to buds which point out-
ward, so as to broaden the trees. Tall, spindling
trees have little ' ' bearing surface, ' ' and, besides, such
trees are more apt to blow down during heavy wind
storms. (Windbreaks are a specially good thing for
all dwarf pears. )
Insect and Fungous Enemies. — The same pests
that trouble the standard pear, also bother the dwarf.
Consult Chapter XIII.
Varieties. — Only a few varieties of pears do
especially well as dwarfs.
ly. T. Yeoinans, whose dwarf-pear orchard is about fifty years
old, expresses a decided preference for the Duchess variety.
I,. H. Bailey, New York, says that the most successful
kinds are Duchess, Anjou, I^ouise Bonne, Manningr's Elizabeth
and Clairgeau.
C. S. Mills, a Michigan grower who has been remarkably suc-
cessful with a commercial dwarf-pear orchard, writes that if he
were going to set another dwarf orchard today, he would plant
six-tenths *Duchess trees, three-tenths *Anjou, and one-tenth
*L,ouise Bonne. (I do not think this list can be much improved
for any section of the country. — ^J. B.)
PLATE XVI
PARAGON CHESTNUTS
Chapter XVI.
NUT TREES.
It seems to tne that a good nut orchard is worth working for. — Tim.
The almond of commerce is the "soft shell" or
' ' paper shell ' ' type, but the variet}- is too tender for
satisfactory orchard growing in cold sections of our
country. In California, etc., the business is a mod-
erate success. Occasional trees have been made to do
fairly well in northern and eastern states where the
peach succeeds, but, without protection, such attempts
are uncertain. In the South, the trees are apt to
bloom very early and be nipped by spring frosts.
Beech Nut. — This well-known forest nut is hardly
adapted to orchard planting.
Butternut and Bi,ack Wai^nut. — These, though
very useful trees in their way, are scarcel}' in the
orchard class at the present time. Trees are usually
propagated by raising seedlings from choice nuts. I
believe that more of these trees should be planted.
Chestnut. — Now we come to a species of nut
which has distinct commercial possibilities for the
average American. ]\Ir. Joseph L. Lovett, of Pennsyl-
vania, now has about fifty acres on his own farm
planted to improved chestnuts, — mostly Paragons.
]Mr. Lovett plows his orchard each spring and then
gives the soil regular cultivation until September
first. No autumn or winter cover crop is planted,
because such a growth would interfere with the
(115)
116
BIGGI.K ORCHARD BOOK
finding of the nuts when they fall on the ground. The
trees are set about thirty feet apart each way ; they
begin to bear when quite young, and are not pruned
or sprayed — unless it is to trim up an occasional
branch that droops too near the ground. The red
spider leaves its mark on the foliage every season,
but jVIr. lyovett says that he ' ' pays no attention ' ' to this
insect pest.
CLUSTER OF PARAGON CHESTNUT BURS
The weevil has found its way into the Lovett
groves. But not in foixe. There are no overlooked
nuts, no stumps, no underbrush, in which they can
breed ; the soil is frequently cultivated, all the nuts
are picked up each season, and, consequently, the
weevil has not proved to be a serious pest on this farm.
When harvesting the nuts, they are never picked,
knocked or shaken off. Mr. Lovett waits until Jack
Frost loosens the crop.
NUT TREES 117
^' Plow a chestnut orchard deeply^''' says Mr.
Lovett "You should endeavor, in every way pos-
sible, to encourage a large, deep-growing root system.
This is very important."
Some nut-growers are taking chestnut stump land,
and are grafting Paragons, etc., on the sprouts which
come from stumps. But INIr. Lovett says that this
method has many objections.
Whip grafting is the usual method of propagation,
but the union is not always successful. Nut grafting
of any kind requires great skill, and the average nut-
grower had better buy his nut trees of a nurseryman.
Chinquapin.— A wild, dwarf, bush-like variety of
chestnut, of little commercial value.
CocoANUT. — There are a few successful groves in
southern Florida.
F11.BERT AND HAZEI.NUT. — We call the American
product ' ' hazelnuts, ' ' and the imported kind ' ' filberts. ' '
Botanically they are both Corylus. Commercially the
culture of hazelnuts has not been much of a success in
this country in the East, and but slightly more so in
California.
Hickory Nut. — The shellbark hickory is as yet
mainly known as a forest tree, but the time is no
doubt coming when some of the finer varieties — Hale's
Paper Shell, for instance — will be commercially
planted. Hickories (like black walnuts and butter-
nuts) object to transplanting, and it is not easy to
propagate them by grafting or budding ; therefore
they are usually grown from selected seed.
Pecan. — This highly-esteemed nut tree is a species
of hickory indigenous on fertile, moist lowlands in
lis BIGGI.E: ORCHARD BOOK
Ohio, Indiana, Iowa, etc. , and in many of the southern
states. Commercially, the culture of this nut is not
likely to extend much north of the Ohio and the
Potomac rivers, says Prof. Bailey, Trees farther north
are not apt to be very productive, and the nuts are
smaller in size. Seedling trees seldom grow true to
type ; therefore grafted or budded trees are most
desirable. A splice crown-graft, on a pecan seedling
stock, is one of the best recommended propagation
methods. But all methods are difficult ; better buy
trees of a nurseryman. Very little pruning is required
after the tree is well started. Cultivation is very
helpful to a nut orchard. Paying crops should not be
expected before ten or twelve years. Every locality
has its favorite varieties, some of the best known
being : Century ; Van Deman ; Stuart ; San Saba.
\Vai,nuT. — Our excellent native variety, the black
walnut, has previously been juentioned in this chap-
ter, in connection with the butternut. The English
walnut (also called ' ' Persian ' ' walnut and ' ' Lladeira ' '
nut) is not suited to cold climates, and commercially
it is profitable, in this country, in practically but one
state — California. Specimen trees can be grown,
however, in Pennsylvania and similar climates.
Another imported species — the Japan walnut — is
often grown as an ornamental tree in the East and
North. It is hardy, bears its nuts in odd-looking
clusters, but has little commercial value.
PLATE XVII
FLEMISH BEAUTY
KIEFFER
Chapter XVII.
CITRUS AND OTHER FRUITS.
There's a special fruit for et'erybody^s taste ; take your choice.
Apricot. — This delicious fruit is like both peach
and plum. It can be grown, under right conditions,
as far north as western New York, being about as
hardy as the peach and requiring the same special con-
ditions. Borers, rot and the curculio are the principal
enemies.
Avocado or Aie
free from bruises and breaks in the skin. The size of
X'o. 2 apples of the smaller sort has not been fixed,
but two-inch diameter apples might be included.
The stems should be in all first-class apples, or in
at least eighty-five or ninety per cent of them, and
the specimens in a lot of this kind should be uniform
in size, color and appearance. The fruit may be
graded as it is packed. Two barrels should be set
132
BIGGLE ORCHARD BOOK
up — one for No. I's, the other for No. 2's — and as the
fniit is picked over, each class finds its way into its
respective barrel. Whether this work should be done
soon after picking, or later during the winter, depends
largely upon the grower's own methods. Wilmer
Atkinson prefers the latter way (see preceding
chapter) . One thing is certain : // pays to grade
fruit. Most of this grading is done by "hand and
eye" ; machine graders are sometimes used.
Packing AppIvES. — Two layers of fruit should be
placed in the bottom of barrel, with stems down and
as close together as possible. These will form the
facing, for this end will be
the top when opened. Fill
in with the same grade, often
shake, and when near the
top put in two more layers
with stems up, letting the
FANCY APPLE-PACKING ^^^^ J^^^j. ^^^^^ ^ f^^^J -^^^^
above the chine of barrel. Now put on lid and
slowly press into place, shaking the barrel in the
meanwhile.
Some packers place a round, corrugated paper
cushion beneath and on top of the fruit in each barrel ;
some use no cushion of any kind ; others use ordinary
paper ; a few decorate the top with an edging of white
lace-paper, in addition to the corrugated cushion.
For filling the barrels, a small basket, one that will
go down into the barrel, and provided with a swing
handle, will be found very convenient. This basket
is filled with fruit, let down into the barrel and turned
over, allowing the fruit to run out.
GRADING AND PACKING
HOME-MADE BARREL PRESS
Be careful not to press
A barrel header, such as the stores sell, is a handy
implement to own, Bnt if there are only a few apples
to be barreled, it may not
pay to buy a press. One can
be rigged very quickly by
using a plank or scantling
with one end under a stud
reaching to the shed plate
and temporarily nailed in
place. The barrel to be
headed forms the fulcrum,
the apples too hard.
Apples in boxes : Bach apple should be put in
place by hand — in rows and tiers (like oranges) , ev^ery
apple perfect. The number and arrangement of rows
depends upon what size apple is being packed ; each
size will require a different method of ' ' placing to fit. ' *
Sometimes the rows will need to be diagonal or irreg-
ular ; a little experimenting, practise and "knack"
will soon determine the best wa}' to make a size fit a
box and "come out right" on top. Every apple in a
box should be uniform in size. Some packers line
the boxes with white paper ; and some wrap each
apple in paper made for the purpose.
Stenciling apple packages : As soon as the package
is closed up and securely nailed, it should be properly
marked. The box should be marked on both ends,
while the barrel should be marked on the faced end
intended for the top. Both shoidd bear the name of the
variety ; the grade of apple, whether Xo, 1 or No. 2 ;
the name of the grower and the place where
grown.
134 BIGGLE ORCHARD BOOK
Handle fruit like eggs — with care. Don't mix
different varieties, shapes and colors in one package.
Don't mix windfalls with hand-picked frnit.
Cherries. — Baskets not larger than eight or ten
pounds slionld be used in picking. The packing
house should have tables or frames with canvas bot-
toms, on which carefully to lay the cherries for sorting
into packages. The fniit in the package should be
uniform throughoiit and tastefully faced to attract the
attention of the fastidious, who will pay the highest
market price. In California, sweet cherries are usually
packed in shallow, small, wooden boxes holding about
ten pounds, and the fruit is carefully sorted and faced
in regular rows — stem end down and out of sight.
The effect is very pretty, but such packing requires
labor and time ; it undoubtedly pa3^s, however. In
the East, sweet cherries are commonly packed in
ordinary quart berry boxes, sixteen (or more) boxes
to the crate. If the top of each box is properly faced,
the effect is good ; but not so good as the California
package.
Sour cherries are usually packed either in eight-
pound grape baskets, or in the quart boxes mentioned
in the preceding paragraph. The top layer of fniit
should l)e placed, stems down, in regular rows.
Girls or women can do this work nicely. The extra
expense of thus facing a basket of cherries amounts
to about four cents. Does it pay ? As a rule, yes. A
Michigan friend of mine does even more : He packs
his cherries in quart boxes in sixteen-quart crates, and
along the top edges of crate, folded down over the
fniit, he places a narrow edging of white lace-paper,
GRADING AND PACKING
135
— something- similar to the edging often seen on
candy boxes. The edging he uses is about two inches
wide and costs "less than a cent a crate." Then, with
a small cluster of fresh cherry leaves placed in the
centre of fruit at each crate end, he considers that the
job is complete. His fruit certainly does look remark-
ably nice, and the prices received for it are extra
good. His name and guarantee go on every crate.
Peaches. — Different peach-growing districts have
different styles of packages. In Michigan, for instance,
the favorite package for
peaches is the sixth-bushel
Climax basket with extension
slat cover ; in New Jersey,
high, round, flaring-top .bas-
kets are in favor, holding
about half a bushel ; in
Georgia, the six-basket crate
is the thing, each basket
holding about four quarts.
Then there are four-basket
'crates, open - sided peck
Climax baskets (for fancy
fruit), fifth-bushel Climax
baskets, round bushel bas-
kets with slat covers, etc.,
etc. ' ' What package to
use" is largely a matter of locality and choice.
Peaches are usually graded into three or four sizes,
and each size is packed by itself and labeletl accord-
ingly. ]\Iachine graders do excellent work, and are
often used by large growers. In the :\Iichigan and
CLIMAX PEACH-BASKET
SIX-BASKET PEACH CRATE
136 BIGGLIC ORCHARD BOOK
Georgia baskets, the peaches are fitted into regular
rows and tiers, all arranged "just so." The largest
or first-grade peaches are often labeled "Fancy" or
Selects. ' ' Red tarletan is sometimes fitted over each
basket, giving the
fniit a pink, pretty,
but rather decep-
tive look.
Pears. — This
fruit is usually
packed and shipped
while still in a
green state. Bushel
boxes, barrels,
round bushel or
A MACHINE I'KAcu-GRAi.KK half-busliclbaskets,
kegs, etc., are favored by different growers and local-
ities. The ripening is nearly always done by the
dealer. Grading must be done by hand and eye ; I
have not yet heard of a successful machine grader
for pears. Fancy fruits should each be wrapped in
paper, — California style.
PivUMS.— All sorts of packages are used for this
fruit ; it does not seem to have an individual package
especially adapted to its needs. Peach baskets, grape
baskets, strawberry boxes in crates, etc., etc., are all
used. Each grower has his own preference ; and, of
course, the style of package chosen should depend
largely upon the distance it must be shipped.
Quinces. — Barrels, half-barrels, bushel baskets,
etc., are all suitable for quinces. Each fruit should be
well colored, unbruised and perfect. Make two grades
or sizes. Use the culls at home.
GOES r.oi.npiv hrof'
PLATE XX
LOMBARD
GERMAN FRINE
GREEN GAGE
KtL>tV
Chapter XX.
COLD STORAGE AXI) MARKETING.
After Prod ucitiK fine fruit , team hmv to sett it ; the proof of
the setting is in the size of the f//c<77/