.^ - /./• 
 
 
 
 \%^ 
 
 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 

 r/^^:^€^<^S^^'-^' 
 
-';••« .y-v-v*-. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
THE 
 
 TAILORS' DIRECTOR, 
 
 CONTAINING AN 
 
 IMPORTANT DISCOVERY 
 
 FOR 
 
 FITTING THE HUMAN SHAPE, 
 
 BY 
 
 Anatomical }&tintipltn, 
 
 luclndiug Regiiucutal8, Geiitlenieii's Dresa* Fiock, Sliootlng 
 and Over Coats* 
 
 WITH 
 
 Practical Dissertations oh the various Positions, 
 
 Being a rigid and impartial Expositor, and a genuine Standard for qualifying 
 Tailors to detect erroneous causes.^ 
 
 ALSO, 
 
 For correcting and improving their own ideas, which elucidates the connexion 
 
 of length and tvidthat then- respective points, and the great distinction 
 
 between the height of neck from tlie width round the body, 
 
 embracing eligible principles, requisite to fit tall thin 
 
 and short stout figures, which have never 
 
 been publicly taught or practised 
 
 in the United Slates. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH DRAWINGS 
 
 OF 
 
 E\3}0 tnlUltmif) ^iQUtt&f 
 
 AND 
 
 LITHOGRAPH ENGRAVINGS 
 
 BY JOHN JACKSON. 
 
 NEW- YORK: 
 PRINTED FOR THE PROPRIETOR, No. 53 MAIDEN LANE. 
 
 1833. 
 
■<^' 
 
 C['^ 
 
 1> 
 
 Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1833, by Isaac 
 Hooghkerk, in the Clerk's Oflice of the District Court of the Southern 
 District of New-York. 
 
DEDICATION 
 
 To the Merchant Tailors of the City ofNeic- York: 
 
 Gentlemen — I appeal to your respectability as a 
 guarantee for your candour. I solicit a talented 
 criticism by your experience, and confide in your 
 honour. 
 
 The attempt is now made to establish a true and 
 practical science for the government of the trade. 
 Your practice with the fashionable part of society 
 must produce a refined experience, peculiar to 
 yourselves. You are the only competent judges of 
 merit or demerit; consequently, it may justly be 
 presumed that your credulity cannot be imposed 
 upon by the pretensions of any man. 
 
 The principles of this science embrace interest- 
 ing, intelligent, and valuable information. The ex- 
 perienced cutter will admire genuine causes and 
 effects ; the majority of the trade will now be quali- 
 fied to improve their acquired knowledge. The 
 young man (without practice) may now obtain a 
 practical science, which is reduced to simplicity, 
 and matured by assiduous application. 
 
 This treatise implies a distinct science for tall 
 thin, and short stout men, and for the various posi- 
 tions of the human shape. The science required 
 
4 
 
 for the over-coat, and the important principles con- 
 nected willi llie sleeve ; the distinction between the 
 dress coat and one for labour or exertion, for one 
 and the same gentleman, including the remarks on 
 the variations, which are the result of experience — 
 may, on presumptive evidence, qualify the inexpe- 
 rienced young man to become a practical cutter. 
 Scientific teachers have uniformly informed young 
 men, at the finishing and last lesson, that their " im- 
 provement will depend on their practice." They 
 have obtained a knowledge of one system, intended 
 to fit tall thin, and short stout men, with instructions 
 to cut an over-coat by the said one system, with ad- 
 vice to make it larger than the dress coat. 
 
 A young man commencing business with a limit- 
 ed capital, and governed by the said one system, 
 may lose his money and connection before he has 
 gained a practical knowledge by his experience ; 
 and if he should be so fortunate as to stand his 
 ground, even then his one system prevents an in- 
 crease of respectable connection. A tailor may con- 
 duct business by the said one system for ten or 
 twenty years, without being a practical cutter. 
 
 The respectable merchant tailors in this city are 
 politely requested to refer to their icagcs book, when 
 their business was governed by the said one system. 
 Honourable candour will induce them to acknow- 
 ledge, that their pre-eminence and refined expe- 
 rience have been the result of observation, as pro- 
 duced by expensive alterations. 
 
 It is an undoubted fact, that the fine art (as a 
 science) for fitting the human shape, is confined to a 
 
limited few; the irinjority of extensive establisliments 
 cannot positively affirm, that their plans of cutting can 
 be honoured with the appelhition o^ genuine science. 
 The fine arts, professions, and mechanical trades, 
 which form the most useful part of society, have 
 been improved by progressive knowledge. While 
 the trade and science of a tailor {as a cutter) 
 has been enveloped with ambiguity, and made ob- 
 scure by Biich principles which never have nor never 
 can be reduced to a practical art, which is the pri- 
 mary cause why the more industrious and reflecting 
 part of the trade, have consigned the popular sys- 
 tems of cutting to oblivion, and have been compelled 
 to improve their acquired ideas by attentive obser- 
 vation on the results of their own cutting. New 
 forejfarts and inside sleeves, combined with the se- 
 rious expenses attending alterations, have been and 
 continue to be the great but inglorious road to per- 
 fection. 
 
 If this treatise were written for the use and im- 
 provement of fnill-wrights and engineers, the ana- 
 tomical principles which it professes would be ap- 
 preciated or exploded by practical men ; and if this 
 treatise could not stand the test of an efficient ap- 
 plication, then the knowledge and spirit of mill- 
 wrights and engineers would publicly expose the 
 pretensions of the author, which would prevent the 
 credulity of their fellow mechanics being imposed 
 upon. 
 
 But if it could stand the ordeal of a talented 
 criticism, and the original hypothesis embracing a 
 true and genuine science, and the principles attaina- 
 
6 
 
 ble by application, then the said mill-tcrights and 
 engineers would publicly declare their approbation, 
 and consent at once to improve themselves and ad- 
 vise their fellow mechanics to submit to an honoura- 
 ble conviction. >> : . 
 
 It has hitherto been, and will ever continue, my 
 highest ambition, to be honoured with meetings of 
 the respectable and experienced part of the trade ; 
 '^ not in a private room and before inexperienced 
 pupils. ^^ I court the judicious criticism of expe- 
 rienced cutters, who are the only competent judges, 
 and submit my future claims to their confidence by 
 confiding in their impartial judgment. 
 
 There is another cause, also, why the science of 
 a tailor (as a cutter) has been allowed to be ob- 
 scured by absurdities and impracticable theories, 
 viz : the credulity of the middle class of the trade 
 being influenced by the opinions of first-rate estab- 
 lishments. 
 
 The majority of extensive tailoring firms in Lon- 
 don, England, have neither time or interest to at- 
 tend to the causes of their own alterations. Their 
 ample means, and the respectability of their cus- 
 tomers, combined with paper patterns and the 
 custom of fitting on, supersedes the merit of 
 genuine science. They have patronized (with their 
 names only) the most absurd and obscure hypothe- 
 sis, such as breast-thirds to find the bottom of the 
 hack'scye. The authors and {)lagiarists of various 
 theories, with " proportionate and universal tables," 
 having the respectable names of popular men, as 
 positive evidence of the ^^mathematical precision*^ 
 
combined with their " original systems," have had a 
 glorious opportunity, and an extensive practice on 
 the credulity of the middle class and the inexpe- 
 rienced cutter. 
 
 I consider it my duty to the trade to explain to 
 them the length of time 1 have been in the field of 
 argument, co7isultation, criticism, and lectures on 
 the science of dividing the length from the icidth, 
 relative to every garment which can be made for 
 fitting the human shape. In the year 1825, 1 plain- 
 ly perceived by observation, that tall thin and short 
 stout men could not be fitted by the one system,. I 
 applied to every author of systems in London, but 
 could not find any practical principle on the subject. 
 By assiduous application and indefatigable zeal I 
 obtained my object. 
 
 In the year 1827, I was joint proprietor and lec- 
 turer at the Master Tailors' Debating Society, in 
 London, England. The following advertisements 
 and resolutions will prove the laborious part I have 
 taken in the field of discovery: — 
 
 ^^ At a Meeting of Master Tailors, convened by 
 Public Advertisement,and held at No. 28 Leices- 
 ter Square, on Monday evening, the 26th of No- 
 vember, 1827; 
 
 '*Tho constitution of the society having been taken 
 into consideration, the following Resolutions were 
 passed unanimously: — 
 "First, That the art of measuring and cutting 
 
 being dependent on a knowledge of the human 
 
 shape, and on mathematical science, it is desirable 
 
to form an institution for tlio purpose of teaching 
 the said art, and imj^roving the skill of the trade ; 
 such institution to be called ' The Master Tailors' 
 Society.^ ' 
 
 ^^ Second, That such an institution, conducted on 
 a liberal plan, will prove alike beneficial to i\ni pub- 
 lic and to the trade, inasmuch, as when the art of 
 measuring is practised according to the principles of 
 true science, the customers may command approved 
 and well-made dresses, while, by judgment and eco- 
 nomy in cutting, the trade will be enabled to furnish 
 an improved article, with an increase of profit, and 
 without an advance in price. 
 
 " Third, That in furtherance of the objects of 
 this Institution, a certain number of gentlemen, se- 
 lected on account of their respectability and profi- 
 ciency, be invited to form a committee of taste and 
 fashion, to meet and to act according to the spirit 
 and regulations of the society ; such committee to 
 consist of, at least, twelve members, and any vacan- 
 cy to be supplied at an election, by ballot, at a quar- 
 terly meeting. 
 
 " Fourth, This institution, for master tailors only, 
 to be open every Monday evening, from half- past 
 eight till half-past ten, for lectures, demonstration, 
 and free discussion, on every principle connected 
 with the trade ; — the discussion to be peculiarly 
 confined to subscribers. 
 
 " Fifths To support good order and regularity, it 
 must be understood, that any gentleman, being a 
 member, who intends to favour the institution, by 
 giving his opinions during the debate, will stand 
 
forward towards the cutting-noard. All opinions 
 respectfully delivered, will be received with due at- 
 tention, by Mr. J. Jackson.' 
 
 Master Tailors^ Society, 28, Leicester Square, 
 6th of December, 1827. 
 "Sir — We respectfully tako leave to lay before 
 you a Scries of Resolutions, prised at a numerous 
 and hig-hly respectable meeting of Master Tailors, 
 which was convened by public advertisement at the 
 Society's Rooms, on Monday, the 26th of November 
 last. We are happy to ir^Drni you, that they were 
 unanimously confirmed by a subsequent public 
 meeting of the trade on Monday last, when Mr. 
 Jackson, in the presence of many scientific teachers 
 of cutting, proved the practicability and truth of his 
 improved principles, by actual admeasurement of 
 the person, and by demonstration on the cutting- 
 board. His system was then found to bear the test 
 of a talented criticism, and, consequently, gave the 
 most perfect satisfaction. 
 
 "The Society, being thus established, we now, 
 therefore, venture to solicit the honour of your pa- 
 tronage and support, and to submit to your conside- 
 ration, some of the advantages you will derive by 
 becoming a subscriber: — 
 
 ''First, You will thereby be a member of a re- 
 spectable society of Master Tailors, established on 
 the most honourable and the most liberal principles 
 of private and public utility. 
 
 ''Second, You will thus learn the most improved 
 system of the art of cutting, not practised by one 
 man, or taught in one school only, but the result of 
 
 2 
 
10 
 
 competition and of science, combined with admea- 
 surement, while the important objects stated in Re- 
 solution II. cannot fail to be attained. 
 
 " Third, You will be regularly furnished with 
 patterns of the most approved fashion, which, from 
 their excellence, and elegance, are to be recom- 
 mended by a committee of master tailors, who, 
 from their reputation, have been selected to the 
 office. 
 
 " Fourth, When in London, you will have, on 
 every Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday evening, 
 the opportunity of witnessing a demonstration of 
 the most matured principles put in practice, the de- 
 fects of other systems candidly pointed out, and 
 you will thus possess the surest means of receiving 
 and promoting improvement." 
 
 The basis which I selected for explaining my 
 ideas before the society, was genuine cause and 
 effect, not depending on the favourite measure of 
 thirty-six inches, or on the wonderful discovery of 
 fitting a hiist with brown paper. The animadver- 
 sions against every system or plan of cuttinq which 
 did produce the forepart shoulder-seam, and depth 
 of scye by the top of t1>^ back, were not in the least 
 controverted; and it was proved that the majority 
 of respectable tailors in London (who did cut by 
 system) were governed by the very plans which 
 were alleged to be the principal causes of their 
 costly alterations, with the extra trouble and expense 
 of fitting on. Those lectures, united with criticism, 
 created a rebellion among the system manufac- 
 turers. 
 
11 
 
 I am aware that the trade in the City of New- York, 
 and throughout the United States, have had their 
 share of scientific teachers, who were not deficient 
 in pretensions to originality, mathematical pre- 
 cision; also pencil cases for obtaining- the hollow 
 waist. Each teacher has been favoured with the 
 generous and liberal feelings of a great part of the 
 trade ; however, not one system has been found to 
 divide the height from the icidth by a practical prin- 
 ciple. 
 
 A final remark to the respectable and experienced 
 part of the trade may not be unacceptable. Fore- 
 men have to risk their knowledge of fitting the 
 shape, when they cut by an uncertain measure ; this 
 treatise on cause and effect, it is presumed, will in- 
 duce the merchant tailors to adopt a correct plan for 
 obtaining a knowledge of the shape, at the time 
 the length and width are taken. The foreman can- 
 not be responsible for alterations when the measure 
 for their guide is only the length and width of the 
 garment. If large establishments, with the acquisi- 
 tion of experienced foremen, added to their diligent 
 attention to paper patterns, were known to fit their 
 customers without the expense of alterations, it 
 might then be fairly presumed that their peculiar 
 acquirements would supersede the utility of this 
 treatise. It must be admitted that their continued 
 practice tends to produce a graceful and superior 
 mode of cutting ; but a reference to even twelve 
 months' alterations cannot but incline the merchant 
 tailors to feel and appreciate the utility and im- 
 
12 
 
 portance of the dissertations and comments of this 
 treatise on cause and effect. 
 
 It is now confidently presumed, that the prin- 
 ciples of this treatise;, which are as requisite to 
 fit the field marshal for manual evolutions, as the 
 blacksmith for his laborious calling, together with 
 the judicious comments on the effect which the 
 positions produce, will induce merchant tailors to 
 consider what are the causes of their expensive all 
 terations; and country tailors may, by applying to 
 this treatise, be rendered fully competent to pre- 
 serve and increase their connection, by insuring an 
 elegant and graceful symmetry. 
 
 Gentlemen, I cherish a truly grateful sense of 
 your liberal patronage, and trust my exertions wil- 
 long entitle me to your kind favour and friend- 
 ship, which it shall be my study to deserve. 
 
 J. JACKSON, Office, 53 Maiden Lane, 
 
 Private Residence, 170 Spring-st, 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 , The Author is fully sensible of the critical situa- 
 tion in which he places himself, by attempting to 
 detect false Hypotheses, and venturing to correct 
 and improve the popular Si/stems of others who are 
 patronized by Tailors of established reputation ; 
 but the chief motive in this arduous undertaking 
 being directed towards general improvement^ the 
 Trade will no doubt appreciate his industry and 
 acknowledge his application, who has combined 
 utility with simplicity. 
 
 The Author makes use of two figures, with lines, 
 to represent the effect produced by the positions, and 
 at once demonstrates the importance of dividing the 
 height of neck from the width across the breast, 
 and proves that there can be no sound principle 
 connected with the technical distinction between 
 crooked or straight fore-parts. He solicits the at- 
 tention of the Trade to this important discovery, 
 not doubting but they will acknowledge that it is 
 not only useful, but of the greatest consequence to 
 them ; their property, reputation, and connexion, 
 are more or less affected by their knowledge of fit- 
 ting the human shape. The lines on the Figures 
 
XIV PREFACE. 
 
 are fully explained, and every pains taken to render 
 this Treatise as comprehensive as possible. There 
 are many Systems in use, but ask any experienced 
 Cutter or Foreman which he follovi^s \ his answer is 
 none, for he cannot find one that will generally suit 
 his purpose ; he has therefore recourse to his own 
 judgment, obtained by many years practice and ex- 
 pensive experience ; for if a System will not apply 
 to every shape, it cannot be admitted to be of gene- 
 ral use. Such Works may assist and be useful in 
 presenting young practitioners with Rules that will 
 fit a certain description of shape, without which they 
 must have been deficient of any rule whatever, — for 
 it must be admitted by experienced Tailors that 
 their own ideas of Cutting cannot be truly conveyed 
 to others without many years practice, because their 
 plans may justly be acknowledged the result of ob- 
 servation as produced by alterations ; however ma- 
 tured their plans may be, they never could find pa- 
 tience nor time to make a systematical plan of their 
 practical ideas, consequently they cannot even teach 
 their own sons ; therefore it is justly presumed that 
 every Author on and Teacher of Cutting ought to 
 be men of business to be qualified to invent Systems 
 for the government of others. The Tailors'^ Di- 
 rector is offered to the Trade to correct and improve 
 every System of Cutting, by a true knowledge of 
 the external shape of the human figure. Great part 
 of the admeasurement is not requisite for practical 
 Cutting, yet every part 'is required to elucidate the 
 principles which are connected with genuine effects. 
 It is fairly presumed that an attentive perusal of this 
 
PREFACE. XV 
 
 elaborate Treatise will induce the inquiring mind to 
 compare his System with the Anatomical Standard, 
 and while it discovers Errors, at the same time it 
 gives Instruction to correct and improve it. A full 
 description of the Anatomical Lines is in the first 
 part of the Work, a mere glance at which will con- 
 vince the well informed that this Treatise is worth 
 their most serious attention ; for here will be found 
 cause and effect properly explained— and where any 
 Tailor is found to be in error, the utmost liberality 
 is shown him, but no exposure without a just cause 
 assigned ; Improvement being a higher object than 
 the paltry pleasure of discovering the faults of others. 
 Every Tailor (who professes to be a Cutter) will al- 
 low that the causes of blunders and alterations is a 
 serious subject against the faculties and property of 
 the Trade, which proves by ocular demonstration 
 that the Scientific, Geometrical, and Mathematical 
 Systems of Cutting have been, and continue to be 
 inaccessible to practice: cunningly obscured, and 
 artfully complex. Any cutter can now improve and 
 correct his acquirements, and properly apply his ge- 
 nius to the dictates of the Goddess of Fashion, who 
 is the Nursery of Trade— the propagator of arts— 
 and a field of great employment. 
 
 Having accomplished what others have in vain 
 sought to do, viz. a complete knowledge of all the 
 causes and effects produced upon Garments, and 
 clearly elucidated them to every capacity, he drops 
 the pen with good wishes towards those who have 
 not been so industrious in the Field of Discovery, 
 aud most respectfully submits the following pages 
 
XVI PREFACE. 
 
 to th e candour of every Practical Cutter ; and as 
 improvement in any Science is desirable, he doubts 
 not that the Trade in general will know how to ap- 
 preciate his labours. 
 
 JOHN JACKSON. 
 
THE TAILOR'S DIRECTOR. 
 
 The principal object of this Anatomical Mea- 
 sure is to explain the cause of all the expensive Al- 
 terations in the Trade. It will clearly demonstrate 
 the errors of all the preceding Authors, and show, 
 by example, that their own calculations and geome- 
 trical rules, are very far from producing a system so 
 as to fit the human figure, without being subject to 
 doubtful variation. 
 
 True science will always produce cause and effect ; 
 it ennobles the mind, and removes conjecture : when 
 genuine effects are the consequence of natural or 
 acquired rudiments, and proportionate systems are 
 produced by efficient causes, and when the object is 
 attainable by application, it will stand the test of 
 criticism ; for the more it is tried, the greater its bril- 
 liancy. 
 
 The Trade are respectfully solicited to select a 
 SHOUT STODT MAN : 01' n. tall thin man, as a standard 
 for the operation of the Anatomical Measure. The 
 lines may be made of tape or leather, or the mea- 
 sure can be correctly taken by using pipe clay, to 
 mark the various points ; this admeasurement is to 
 obtain a proper knowledge of the width, height, and 
 shape of the man. 
 
18 
 
 Description of the Anatomical Lines. 
 
 The lines round the breast and waist are the cir- 
 cumference ones ; place a line correctly round the 
 neck, which is the neck line ; also one from the top 
 of the back to the shoulder seam, and continued to 
 the waist at front, or lay the measure straight across 
 the back to the side of the neck or shoulder-seam, 
 say 3 inches for the reputed standard, and 4 for a 
 stout man. The space between them (across the 
 breast lines) are the front proof lines ; figure one 
 represents but one line, because it is not a full front, 
 but both sides must be taken when the figure is full 
 fronted, in order to obtain the correct space between 
 them ; the one across the back opposite the elbow, 
 is distinguished as the centre line; that from the 
 back-seam, at the hollow of the waist, and round 
 the front of the arm, to the centre of the back, at the 
 centre line, and the same continued to the top of the 
 back seam, are the hack proof lines ; from the bottom 
 of the scye to the hip, is the length of the body ; from 
 the top of the back-seam under the crotch, and 
 up to the neck in front, is the position line; from the 
 centre at the back-seam, to the bottom of the fore- 
 part scye, and the line across the bottom of the scye 
 to the front are distinguished by the depth of scye 
 lines. 
 

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20 
 
 Illustration of the Anatomical Figure Measure, 
 
 Parts First and Second. — When the measure is 
 laid at the back-seam to obtain the length to the el- 
 bow, take notice if the sleeve seam is in a line with 
 the measure, or mark the centre of the back scye di- 
 rectly opposite the elbow; then measure the width 
 of the back to suit the appearance of the shape, and 
 take the length from the top of the back seam to the 
 centre of the back scye, or make a mark on the back- 
 seam at A, and take the length from the top to A, 
 which will find a correct centre-line ; the width of 
 this back is 6 inches, and 4i from the top, which is 
 the reputed standard-height, independent of the 
 width. — Another back may be 7 inches wide and 8i 
 long, which would be the some height of neck, and 
 proves that the width is independent of the height. 
 
 As the skin of the arms is connected with that 
 across the back and shoulders, so is the back of the 
 coat with the elbow ; as the skin is affbcted by the 
 arms, so will the cloth be that covers the same parts. 
 The length to the hollow of the waist at C is 17 
 inches, which is a variation. Some men are 5 feet 
 10 inches high, yet the waist is no longer than others 
 who are onli/ 5 feet 3 inches high ; six men of equal 
 length and width may vary in the shape. The erect 
 position causes the breast to project in front, and the 
 
21 
 
 head and top of the back to be upright, and is the 
 principal cause which produces the holloic waist. 
 The extra hollow at the waist is caused by a small 
 waist and large hips; if the skin which covers the 
 back was made one inch too high from the centre 
 line at A, it would be one inch too short at the hol- 
 low of the waist at C, and would cause the skin 
 which covers the hips to be brought up one inch, and 
 as the hips are larger than tlie waist it could not fit 
 the hollow ; or if the back skin was brought down to 
 its place, then it would be one inch too short be- 
 tween the waist and the centre line, the back would 
 be one inch too short at the side-seam, and would 
 cause the forepart skin to be one inch too low under 
 the scye. The skin round the arm from the elbov/ 
 to the bottom of the scye would be contracted, or it 
 would bring the scye up to its place, which would 
 move the hip, and cause the top of the side-seam 
 to be one inch too high, and is the principal cause 
 of the side-seam not fitting. 
 
 Part Fourth is a practical principle, and can be 
 comprehended by any cutter. If the bottom of the 
 scye is too loiv, it will contract the whole coat, for as 
 the skin on the arm will compel the bottom of the 
 scye to be brought up to its place, it will contract the 
 length to the elbow, and as the elbow is connected 
 with the back, it will contract the width across the 
 shoulders, and would cause the skin at the fore -arm 
 to appear as if it was too long. 
 
 Part Fifth proves that the fore-part shoulder- 
 seam is a part of the width across the shoulders, and 
 as it must hav^e a name, it ought to be distinguished 
 
 4 
 
22 ^ 
 
 by the width and not by the length of the shoulder- 
 seam ; if this seam is too wide or too long, it will 
 cause the skin which covers the front part of the 
 body, to come down at the front, and hang oft' be- 
 hind ; if the coat is fixed on the body as it ought to 
 be, then the top of the back will be too large, or the 
 neck string will be too small at the front, and too 
 large behind, which causes the collar to set oft' at the 
 top of the back, and destroys the shape at the front. 
 Parts Sixth and Seventh, which are truly me- 
 chanical, and will clearly prove the proper height of 
 neck, or what is technically distinguished by straight 
 or crooked fore-parts, and is calculated for correct- 
 ing the neck line, or illustrating the eftects connected 
 with the height of neck, or explaining the conse- 
 quences attending crooked or straight fore-parts. 
 The fore-part gorge is the greater part of the neck 
 line. The skin which covers the front of the shoul- 
 ders is in union with the top part of the back, both 
 in height and width ; if the front part or fore-part 
 gorge is too low or too crooked, it cannot be in union 
 with the back ; as the skin of the arm is connected 
 with both back and front, it must bring the back up 
 to its proper height ; and as the back is fixed to the 
 front at the shoulders, it must cause the fore-part to 
 move up with it, and bring the front of the neck or 
 gorge up also ; if the neck line or gorge is cut the 
 correct length round the neck, the front must be 
 raised, because the gorge is too low or too crooked ; 
 as the cloth cannot stand at the front with the collar 
 on it, it must fall down, which, destroys the shape of 
 the collar. This is the eflfect of many systems or 
 
23 
 
 plans of cutting. If the neck line is too high, or too 
 straight at the fore-part, and the correct lieight at 
 the back, then the neck hne will be disorganized by 
 the back and sleeve, which will combine to bring the 
 fore-part loicer at the shoidder-seam, then the neck 
 line will be too loio at the front ; the collar may im- 
 prove this error, but apply the effect to the skin there 
 is two inches of it taken off at the front of the neck ; 
 if the length down the front to the waist must be 
 twenty-two inches, the waist line must be two inches 
 too low ; if the waist line is brought up to its place, 
 then the skin across the hips must move up with it, 
 as it would be affected, so will the cloth, which causes 
 some coats to open behind. The neck line is now 
 up at the front, but the skin is twisted between the 
 hip and the front of the scye, which causes superflu- 
 ous cloth at the front part of the arm-hole, and the 
 back to appear as if the journeyman had held it on. 
 The height of neck is the greatest mystery in the 
 art of cutting ; one error at this point will destroy the 
 union between the back and fore-part. The allu- 
 sion made to the skin, which covers the neck and 
 shoulders, must convey the ideas of the author, to 
 the comprehension of every tailor who professes to 
 be a cutter. The front proof lines are not to be 
 considered as a practical principle in the common 
 way of business, yet they are a certain guide for pro- 
 ducing a correct fore-part for a corpulent man ; for 
 example, the neck line may be correct, but the same 
 system may not cause the cloth to fit the shape of 
 the projection at the belly; apply them to the fore- 
 pait as directed, then draw the line from the top of 
 
24- 
 
 the shoulder at F to the projection at H, this will 
 produce the front edge of the fore-part at the pro- 
 jection ; then the width across will correct and im- 
 prove the side-seam. The front lines are invented 
 to correct and improve every system of cutting, and 
 qualify the trade to detect the errors of every author 
 on and teacher of Cutting, by assigning efficient 
 causes for the effect required ; for instance, suppose 
 a learned anatomist gave a lecture to his young 
 students on catting a subject's head oft', without 
 injuring the shoulders, by cutting the body from the 
 waist up to the neck, and allow the author to put the 
 following questions to be answered by his well known 
 experience : — • , > 
 
 First — Would you obtain the circumference^ of 
 the neck, and if so, what part of it would make a 
 correct mark for the side of the neck? 
 
 Answer. — Yes, and take the sixth of the circum- 
 ference from the top of the spine to the side of the 
 neck. 
 
 Second. — If the circumference of the waist or 
 belly was larger than across the breast, would the 
 line from the side of the neck to the waist, cause 
 more or less to be cut oft* the breast \ 
 
 AnsiDcr. — The size of the belly will aftect the 
 quantity taken from the breast, a large belly will 
 cause less to be taken oft", and a small waist will 
 cause more to be taken oft* the breast ; the line will 
 give the quantity. 
 
 Third. — If the subject was tall or short, would 
 the length of neck aft*ect the quantity taken oft* the 
 breast I 
 
25 
 
 Answer. — The tall subject, with a long neck, will 
 raise the line, which will bring it more forward on 
 the breast, and will cause a smaller quantity to be 
 taken off the breast than a short one of the same 
 circumference. 
 
 Fourth. — If young students had a tall thin man 
 for a subject, and they (through ignorance) marked 
 the line down the front one inch more from the cen- 
 tre of the breast than the given space, what would be 
 the effect on the shoulders 1 
 
 ^nsicer. — It would cause two and a quarter 
 inches to be cut off the shoulders. 
 
 Part Eighth is the back-seam and front edge of 
 a coat. 
 
 Any cutter may see the effect of this line by fixing 
 a tape measure at the top of the back, bring it un- 
 der the crotch, and continue it up to the front, and 
 fix it at the neck. This line is the correct length 
 of the body ; if it is fixed on a man as directed, cause 
 him to stand upright or erect, which will make the 
 position line move down at the back and upwards at 
 the front — cause him to stand forward or stooping, 
 then the line will move down the front, and upwards 
 at the back. If the back-eeam is seventeen inches 
 long for both positions, the hip buttons will be low- 
 er on the upright shape, than on the stooping one. 
 This part of the Anatomical Director produces ge- 
 nuine effects by efficient causes, and will demon- 
 strate the various parts of the coat in unison with 
 the height and width, and as the position line moves 
 up or down, the same effect will be observed on the 
 coat ; — for example, refer to the fourth part of the 
 
26 
 
 anatomical measure. The length from the back- 
 seam at A to the bottom of the scye at D, and the 
 width from the back-seam at B to the front of the 
 scye at E, will be shorter and smaller by the erect 
 position, and longer and wider by the stooping one, 
 which proves that both shapes cannot be fitted by 
 one pattern, although the circumference and length 
 of the body may be the same. Again, as the centre 
 line at A, and the hollow of the waist at C, vary ac- 
 cording to the figure, so a true measure must be ob- 
 tained of those points in order to form the back, and 
 the principal parts of the coat. Again, the centre 
 line at A, and the line opposite the bottom of the 
 scye at B, will make the side-seam of the back 
 longer for the erect position, and shorter for the 
 stooping one, yet tlie back- seam is one length — if 
 both backs were cut by one pattern, one of them 
 would not fit at the hollow of the waist, because it 
 might be too high for the erect one, and too low for 
 the stooping one. As the position line aflfects both 
 back and fore-part, it must be requisite to understand 
 the connexion the one has with the other. The back 
 proof lines are to prove that the fore-part shoulder 
 seam is in unison with the back, both in height and 
 width across the shoulders ; they are practically 
 useful to obtain a correct knowledge whether the 
 fore-part shoulder-seam be (what others term) too 
 long or too short when applied to any system. Al- 
 though my pupils are taught to use them for proving 
 their practice, they are never applied to in the first 
 instance to find the proper width of the shoulder- 
 seam in coats. 
 
27 
 
 Part JVlnth is the length of the body from the 
 bottom of the scye to the hip, which is requisite for 
 cutting the coat across the waist. 
 
 Part Tenth is the neck line which is technically 
 distinguished by the gorge. As the coat is to go 
 over the waistcoat, the measure round the neck 
 ought to be taken over it. The neck line for top 
 coats ought to be taken over the garments over 
 which they are to be worn. The circumference 
 must be allowed accordingly. This measure is 
 variable according to tlie heiglit and v^^idth, which 
 represents the fore-part gorge of a military coat, 
 and proves the union between the back and fore- 
 part both in height and width. 
 
 Part Eleventh, the length of the sleeve, which is 
 variable according to measure ; the length from the 
 top of the inside sleeve (at the bottom of the scye) 
 to the elbow, is connected with the back, which 
 proves the inside sleeve to be an important part 
 of the coat. — The erect position causes the breast 
 to project, and the arms to be extended, which re- 
 quires a longer fore-arm seam. Officers of the 
 Army and Navy, and others exposed to manual ex- 
 ercise, require an additional length to the elbow, 
 which will give a proportionate width across the 
 shoulders. If the inside sleeve is too short, or too 
 much hollowed, it will cause the outside to appear 
 to be too long at the fore-arm top ; yet it may be 
 a correct length : this measure is found by causing 
 the arms to be extended ; then measure the top to 
 the wrist. If the arm was bent in a square position, 
 the length may be gained from the top to the elbow, 
 
28 
 
 and will be an ocular proof for illustrating the ef- 
 fect of hollowing the inside sleeve, but may be a 
 doubtful principle for obtaining the correct length 
 of the fore-arm seam. The position or crooked- 
 ness of the fore-arm seam affects the top. If the 
 sleeve is eight inches and a half wide, across the 
 line at C, the bottom of the fore-arm seam ought 
 to be the same, and the width ought to be made 
 at the back arm-seam, for the width ought not to 
 alter the shape of the fore-arm seam. The stand- 
 ard length is thirty-five inches, which ought to be a 
 principle : — For example, suppose a man would 
 have the left sleeve six inches shorter than the 
 right one, and each wrist to be formed by the width 
 at the top, which is eight and a half inches, the left 
 sleeve would be one inch and a half more crooked 
 than the right one, and would make the top appear 
 as if it was too long, because the whole sleeve is 
 twisted, which is too common with short stout men's 
 sleeves. 
 
 The following directions are for any one to ex- 
 amine his own system, and if correctly and atten- 
 tively applied, will show whether a coat is cut to fit 
 the shape and position of his customer. When the 
 measure is correctly obtained and plainly written in 
 the order book, or on paper, then cut a coat, paper 
 pattern, by any system most esteemed, and com- 
 pare it by the following rules and lines upon the 
 figures: place the back to the side-seam, and shoul- 
 der-seam of the fore-part, in a joined position ; mark 
 the correct width of the breast and waist, allow for 
 the seams ; apply the front proof line according to 
 
29 
 
 the measure : — suppose across the back three inches; 
 to the breast circumference thu'teen ; to the waist 
 twenty-two ; the space may be four ; if so, two on 
 the breast line from the front. — Draw a line from 
 the waist to the space mark, continue it to the top 
 of the fore-part ; (refer to the plate) this is an ana- 
 tomical process, and will clearly demonstrate the 
 proper height of neck, or what is technically dis- 
 tinguished by straight or crooked fore-parts, which 
 is the greatest mystery connected with the art of 
 fitting the human shape. — This anatomical princi- 
 ple is not requisite to obtain a complete fit, but is 
 an incontrovertible and practical hypothesis for 
 qualifying the trade to be competent arbitrators of 
 merit or de-merit, and will compel professed au- 
 thors on cutting, to be more cautious of exposing 
 their own inability. This valuable discovery is 
 simplified to the comprehension of the greatest no- 
 vice in the trade. 
 
 Suppose the person is corpulent at the belly or 
 waist, the space will be less between the front 
 proof lines ; or if he is tall, or long in the neck, 
 it will be also less : — if the position is upright or 
 erect, it will cause the breast to project, which must 
 increase the proof space ; if it is stooping or round 
 shouldered, it will decrease it, consequently the ex- 
 tra upright position must be loicer at the top of the 
 fore-part gorge, than the stooping or round shoul- 
 dered one. — This admeasurement must be a valu- 
 able acquisition, because it obtains tlie crooked, or 
 straight fore-part, which is united witli the top of, 
 the hack : — the fore-part gorge is a part of the line 
 
 5 
 
ao 
 
 round the neck. — As the back gorge is a part of 
 the neck line, it is requisite to explain the necessity 
 of obtaining the correct length of the back to be in 
 union with the fore-part, as the whole fit of the coat 
 depends on its being in its proper place. The 
 centre line across the back, opposite the elbow, is 
 to distinguish the height or le^igth, from the width; 
 and as the back is that part of a coat which is ge- 
 nerally, and very properly cut first, it becomes an 
 important consequence to the Tailor, because his 
 property and connexion can be improved or injured 
 by the shears. Admitting the back pattern is 
 seventeen inches to the hollow of the waist, yet it 
 may be cut very incorrectly, because the part 
 above the elbow belongs to the shoulders and the 
 neck line. 
 
 The object of this Treatise is to explain what 
 fart of the hack is connected with the height or 
 length. — The common height above the centre line 
 is four and a half inches ; the breast circumference 
 might be fifty, yet the length or height above the 
 centre line, may be four or five and a half. The 
 breast circumference of another man might be 
 thirty-two inches, yet the height may be four, or 
 four and a half, or five, from the centre line — the 
 length must be distinguished from the width. 
 
31 
 On Admeasurement. 
 
 The Author considers it unnecessarf to waste 
 time or paper, in attempting to prove the superior 
 advantag-es which the inch measure has over the 
 parchment one with notches. A correct square 
 with inches is an acquisition. The cutter may 
 mark the most part of the coat accurately without 
 any measure. As square lines are required in cor- 
 rect cutting, they cannot be produced with pre- 
 cision, without a correct square. A division table 
 of the breast circumference is matured by practical 
 experience for the use of the Trade, any Tailor 
 may make paper division measures, by applying to 
 the said table, or may easily learn the requisite di- 
 visions by application. 
 
 Correct measuring is acknowledged by all the 
 trade, to be the only means of insuring complete fit- 
 ting. The position of the figure must be understood 
 by the cutter. The round shoulder is a stooping 
 position ; but the stooping or forward position may 
 not be round shouldered. This position causes the 
 back to be longer from the top to the centre line. 
 The forward position may be hollow in the waist. 
 Write in the order book, round shoulders or shoul- 
 ders foricard, hollow waist. 
 
 The hollow waist is produced by upright or erect 
 position. A tall figure, with small waist, and large 
 hips is extra erect. Write in the order book extra 
 erect. 
 
S2 
 
 The Measure of the Dress Coat, 
 
 Length - - . - . 4^ 17 42 
 
 Sleeve from the back-seam - - 6^ 22 35 
 From the top of the back-seam to the 
 
 front of the waist _ _ _ 22 
 
 To the length required - - 23^ 
 
 From the bottom of the scye to the hip 81 
 
 Width of sleeve round the top of the arm 7;^ 
 
 Elbow - - - _ _ 6i 
 
 Wrist _____ 4| 
 
 Round the breast (under the coat) 36 
 
 Waist - - - - _ 31 
 Back proof, from the bottom of the 
 back-seam round the front of the scye 
 
 to the top of the back-seam - 25i 
 
 Continued to the centre line - \ 26i 
 
 A regular method of entry in the order hook. 
 Name and address. 
 
 The order, . 
 
 Position, erect or otherwise. 
 
 Ah 17 42 6§ 22 35 22 23i 81 7k 6k 41 18 15i 25i 26i 
 
33 
 
 Cutting the Back. 
 
 Presuming the cloth is now laid on the cutting- 
 board ; the right way of the wool towards the left 
 hand. Refer to No. 1 on the plate. Make a mark 
 for the bottom of back skirt, the length is forty-two 
 — place forty-two at the mark, bring the measure 
 to the top of the back — mark the waist at seventeen 
 — the length is now obtained. Mark two inches 
 from the edge of the cloth at the waist — lay the 
 square at the top, near the edge of the cloth, and 
 from the edge at the waist two inches, draw a 
 square line across the top — make a mark on the 
 square-line three inches from the back-seam. 
 Draw a straight line from the top to the bottom 
 of the skirt, lay the square on the edge of the 
 cloth at the bottom of the waist — draw a square 
 line across. The width at the waist is governed 
 by fashion or fancy, say one and a half inch, 
 draw a line down the skirts, the width of the waist 
 from the back-seam line — allow the width of the 
 plait making up. The skirt is now finished. 
 
 Refer to the centre line, by the measure, it is four 
 and a half inches — mark four and a half from the 
 top on the back-seam, lay the square on the back- 
 seam, draw a square line across the back at four 
 and a half, which is the centre line. 
 
 The width of the back, by measure is six and a 
 half inches. The width of the top, and length of 
 back scye may be governed by fashion or fancy — 
 raise the top half an inch at 3 — form the top from 
 
34 
 
 the back-seam to 3. The fashionable Tailors in 
 the city of New- York, make the back scye about 
 three-quarters of an inch, and the top about one 
 and a quarter inch. The goddess of fashion can- 
 not injure this back. The shoulder-seam may 
 come to the centre line. The side-seam may be 
 marked with a straight line, or made extremely 
 hollow, as both shoulder and side-seams are con- 
 nected with the fore-parts, it matters not what form 
 they are cut. The shape of the back ought to be 
 made by the Tailor, to add to the symmetry of his 
 customer. This back is cut by measure and fashion 
 — the height of neck is independent of the width. 
 The top is three inches wide by theory, let it re- 
 main so until the fore-parts are produced. Refer 
 to a short stout figure — breast measure forty-four 
 inches ; the centre line four inches from the top ; 
 the length of waist, sixteen inches ; mark this back 
 by measure and fashion. 
 
 Refer to a tall thin figure, breast thirty-two inches, 
 centre line five and a quarter inches from the top — 
 width six inches — length of back twenty inches — 
 mark this back by measure and fashion, which will 
 prove by ocular demonstration, that the system of 
 breast-thirds, being applied to form any part of 
 the back, is an abominably false and absurd hypo- 
 thesis. When the bock is cut, mark the centre line 
 on both — from the centre line upward to S, mark 
 one and a half inch, which is one-twelfth of eigh- 
 teen inches, the half of the breast measure. Refer 
 to the plate. Prior to any other part of the coat be- 
 ing cut, it is requisite to understand the anatomical 
 causes and effects combined with the back. 
 
35 
 Cutting the Fore-part. 
 
 The fore-part skirt is now intended to be cut by 
 the shape and position of the figure, in conjunction 
 with the fore-part. Obtain the length of the skirt 
 at the edge of the cloth ; mark two inches in at the 
 top of the skirt. (This is a variation produced by 
 the width of the back.) Place the bottom of the 
 back side-seam at the top of the skirt, and the top 
 at the edge of the cloth ; now refer to the centre 
 line across the back, lay the square on the centre 
 line at A, one seam from the back edge, draw a 
 square line from A to B, one-JiaJf of i\\e width, which 
 is nine inches — place the square at B, draw a square 
 line from B to C, the half of nine inches, which is the 
 quarter of the width ; draw a line from C to D, 
 twelve inches, which is two-thirds of the width ; 
 make C your pivot ; fix the inch-measure at C ; 
 draw a round line from D towards the front — the 
 parts of the coat which belong to the width are now 
 produced and divided from the height^ for the sci- 
 ence is governed by the centre line across the back: 
 refer to No. 2, on the plate. 
 
 To mark the side and shoulder seams, refer to 
 the illustration of the Anatomical Table, part eighth, 
 reflect on the cause and effect connected with the 
 position and shape of the figure. Move the back 
 one inch in at the bottom of the waist — this is 
 theory. A practical science will be elucidated re- 
 lative to this part, after the shoulder-seam is pro- 
 duced. 
 
36 
 
 The letter S, on the back, is one-twelfth from A. 
 Lay the square or measure over the back-seam at 
 S, one-twelfth — bring the square or measure to the 
 balance line from D, the size of the breast, eighteen 
 inches, or turn in one and a half inch, or one-twelfth 
 off the measure — lay the said measure on the back 
 at S ; brin_g- the width, which is eighteen inches, to 
 the balance line, which will be sixteen and a half 
 inches from S to S — this being well understood, 
 mark two and a quarter inches, or one-eighth from 
 S on the balance line towards the front, now draw 
 a line at the balance line, including both marks, 
 which will produce the back-seam at the shoulder — 
 refer to the right back, take notice of the mark at 
 S on the back-seam, which is one-ttcelfth from the 
 centre line at A — place this back on the back-seam 
 line at the shoulder, by laying the m.ark at S on the 
 back-seam line at S — be punctual with this part, 
 that S on the back is fixed at S on the back-seam 
 line. Now mark the fore-part shoulder seam by 
 the shape of the back. As the back and fore-parts 
 are united as one, when made up, both in width and 
 height, it must appear very clear that every part 
 of the science ought to be governed by the hack- 
 seam. The back is three inches wide at the top 
 (by theory.) The fashionable Tailors in New- 
 York, make it about one and a half wide. 
 
 The part which is cut off the back, must be put 
 on the fore-part, then the back-seam will be the 
 same. The neck-line must be formed at the top 
 by the piece which came off the back. Mathemati- 
 cal instruments have been invented for forming the 
 
37 
 
 top and scye of the back ; the fore-part scye and 
 neck-line. The trade is now requested to be gov- 
 erned by their acquired knowledge, and not to submit 
 their experience to become scientifically eclipsed by 
 impracticable nonsense. 
 
 The back at the side and shoulder-seams, are 
 now produced by Theory, but the position of the 
 figure and the size of the waist is an important part 
 of this Treatise. The back is laid in one inch at 
 the waist by theory, but the waist may be five or six 
 inches smaller than the breast. Subtract the size 
 of the waist from the breast — for instance, this mea- 
 sure is, breast eighteen inches, waist fifteen and a 
 half inches, the dividend is two and a half inches ; 
 this back must be laid in at the waist a quarter more 
 than theory. If the waist should be twenty-nine 
 inches, then the dividend would be seven inches — 
 the half measure would be three and a half inches, 
 the half of three and a half inches would be one and 
 three quarters, then the back must be laid in at the 
 waist three-quarters of an inch more than theory. 
 Suppose the waist was the same size or larger than 
 the breast, then adhere to theory. The back is now 
 placed by a knowledge of the width round the waist. 
 Now refer to the position of the figure in the order 
 book ; if upright and tall, move the back down one 
 inch, if short only half an inch, because a short man 
 cannot be as hollow at the waist as a tall man ; be 
 careful that moving the back do not alter the shape 
 of the side-seam at neither top nor bottom. Now 
 mark the side-seam by the shape of the back. This 
 back is cut wider across the shoulders than the 
 
 6 
 
S8 
 
 blade bones at the side. One inch must be taken oflf 
 between the back and fore-part. The quantity must 
 be governed by a knowledge of the size of the blade 
 bones. 
 
 The shoulder and side-seams are now formed by 
 the size and position of the figure ; the scye may 
 now be produced by marking five and a half inches 
 from the top of the side-seam to the front ; the back 
 is six and a half wide, which will make the front 
 twelve inches or tico-thirds from the back-seam 
 across the centre line, which may be made correct 
 to the measure, or larger to suit the employment of 
 the man. As this back is moved down three-quarters 
 of an inch, the bottom of the scye at C must be made 
 half an inch lower, but never altered by any other 
 position. Now form the scye. The shoulder point, 
 the top of the side-seam, the front and bottom are 
 produced. Any cutter who requires more infor- 
 mation on this subject, ought to pay for personal 
 tuition. 
 
 The back and fore-parts are now marked to fit 
 the hollow waist, but the skirt is an important 
 subject. 
 
 The graceful symmetry of this part can be im- 
 proved or injured by cutting the fore-parts across 
 the waist. Refer to the length. The bottom of 
 the scye to the hip, which is eight and three quar- 
 ter inches. The length from the top of the back- 
 seam to the waist at front, is twenty-two inches, by 
 measure ; this part of the coat may be cut by judg- 
 ment, without measure, for extensive practice tends 
 to produce an elegant mode of cutting. But this 
 
39 
 
 Treatise embraces a practical plan of admeasure- 
 ment, and cutting to fit customers, by producing a 
 knowledge of cause and effect. Now hollow the 
 fore-parts from tlie front to the length under the 
 scye ; continue it to the side-seam. The fore-parts 
 are now marked out to fit the size, length and po- 
 sition of the customer. As the side-seam is formed 
 for an upright figure, the skirt must be in unison. 
 Draw a line across tiie cloth close under the foie- 
 part; refer to the bottom of the back side-seam, 
 where it was first laid, which is one and a quarter 
 inch from this fore-part side-seam ; lay your square 
 or rule at C, at the bottom of the scye, bring it to 
 the waist, where the back was first laid, continue 
 the same to the length of the skirt; take three- 
 quarters of an inch off the width at top, which will 
 form a graceful shape at the hip. The front must 
 be one and a half inch wide, because the length 
 by measure is twenty-three and a half long, but the 
 length may be required to be twenty-five inches, 
 which is governed by fashion or fancy. If the skirt 
 must be cut extremely narrow, according to the pre- 
 sent fashion, then take off about one inch from the 
 straight line at the top, commencing from the width 
 of the skirt. The cause — the skirt being extremely 
 narrow, there is no protection in front, but if it was 
 cut broad at the top, then the straight line would be 
 a principle. The Tailor must be governed by his 
 knowledge of cause and effect. For instance, if the 
 fancy of the cutter must have a narrow skirt strap 
 in front, he ought not disorganize the length of the 
 body by cutting the cloth at the front too long, he 
 can mark the fore-part at front, below the straight 
 
40 
 
 line across the waist, then the skirt must be made 
 accordingly, or his fancy may give six hours extra 
 work to his bushehnen. To understand the varia- 
 tions connected with the skirl refer to the disser- 
 tations on the positions of the human shape. 
 
 To form the skirt for the Dress-coat, independent 
 of the fore-part. 
 
 Draw a line the length required for the top, mark 
 one-half which is nine inches, on the line from the 
 top. Mark one-sixth, which is three inches from 
 that mark, then lay the square at the top of the 
 skirt, in union with the last mark, then draw a 
 square line across the top ; make the width by the 
 size of the waist : this skirt is for the hollow waist 
 or upright position ; if the fore-parts should be cut 
 lounger than the waist in front, then the top must be 
 cut accordingly. 
 
41 
 
 The sJdrt for the Frock coat. 
 
 If this coat is to be double-breasted, draw a line 
 up the front of the cloth, the width of the lappel ; 
 refer to the length, say tiventy-Jive inches, mark the 
 length up the front, lay the square on the front line, 
 and draw a square line across the top, the width of 
 the fore-part ; mark one- third, which is six inches 
 above the line at P, to the hip ; then form the top. 
 Refer to No. 4 on the plate. To obtain the spring 
 behind, lay the square at the top of the hip, in union 
 with the bottom of the front line, then draw a square 
 line for the spring. The goddess of fashion requires 
 the Tailor to produce a graceful symmetry over his 
 customer's hips, by distinguishing refined experi- 
 ence, from the extravagance of folly and capricious 
 foppery. For instance, the skirt is made for hollow 
 waist, or upright position, but the length at the bot- 
 tom of the front, is not an Anatomical principle for 
 obtaining the spring behind, because the length of 
 the skirt must be made by fashion or fancy. To be 
 governed by principle, mark the width of the breast 
 down the front line, then lay the square at the top 
 of the hip, in union with the mark at H on the front 
 line, to obtain the spring behind : if the waist is ex- 
 tremely small, take off one inch from the width of the 
 top in front ; if the waist is as large as the breast, be 
 governed by the straight line up the front ; if the 
 waist is larger than the breast, then take off one inch 
 from the front edge at the bottom. If the man 
 stands or stoops forward at the shoulders, then take 
 
42 
 
 off one and a half inch of the front edge at the 
 top, and reduce the spring behind. 
 
 A large waist cannot be improved by an extrava- 
 gant width round the bottom of the skirt. The Tai- 
 lor must vary from theory, according to the shape 
 and size of his customer. 
 
 The front of the fore-part for stout men, (whose 
 width round the waist is equal to, or exceeds the 
 width round the breast) requires peculiar notice. 
 The present fashion causes the collar to turn the 
 breast fromjToMr to jive inches. Refer to the fore- 
 part on the plate. The mark at the front of the 
 breast at R is the true width, by measure. Make 
 that part of the front two inches wider ; spring the 
 front at the top one inch, this will make the front- 
 edge hollow towards the top. The turn over by 
 the collar will have a graceful shape, and must be 
 smooth across the breast, if this fore-part was cut 
 as wide across the breast in proportion to a fa- 
 shionable coat for a thin man, the breast would 
 display neither taste nor experience. The fashion- 
 able collar and lappel may have their desired effect 
 on this coat, equal to a smaller shape. 
 
43 
 
 To mark the Sleeve. 
 
 Refer to No. 3 on the plate. The line from A to 
 E, is the edge of the cloth : from A to B, the quar- 
 ter of the breast, which is four and a half inches : 
 from B to C one-third, which is six inches ; lay the 
 square on the back-arm seam-line ; draw a square 
 line across the sleeve at C ; from B to D one-half, 
 which is nine inches ; make D your pivot ; fix the 
 measure at D ; make a round line from B to the 
 square line at C, which produces the top of the 
 fore-seam. The mark at A is the centre of the 
 back, lay the measure at A, the back is six and a 
 half inches wide, mark the top of the back arm- 
 seam by the width of the back, continue the mea- 
 sure to the elbow twenty-two inches, and to the 
 length thirty-five inches, deducting- one inch for the 
 cuff. The position of the fore-seam will now be 
 illustrated. The width across the top of the sleeve 
 at C, is eight and a half inches ; make the said 
 width at the bottom, or draw a square line from the 
 top of the fore-seam, to the leng-th which will pro- 
 duce the position of the sleeve. The width by mea- 
 sure is seven and a half inches across at D. Six 
 and a quarter inches across the elbow, now form 
 the fore-seam : the width at the wrist is four and a 
 quarter inches, now mark the same. The size at 
 the bottom must not disorganize the position of the 
 sleeve. The wrist may be made six inches at the 
 back-seam — now refer to the top. The fore-seam 
 is already formed. Refer to A, which is the centre 
 of the back-seam, take the width of the back from 
 
44 
 
 A, to find the top of the sleeve, now mark the top 
 of the outside sleeve, without tlie wonderfLd aid of 
 compasses. The inside sleeve is an important 
 subject. The size of the scye is sixteen and a half 
 inches, the inside sleeve must be made eisfht and a 
 quarter inches wide ; draw a square line across the 
 top of the back arm-seam ; obtain the width of the 
 inside sleeve, from the fore-seam. Shape the top 
 to correspond with the outside : do not hollow the 
 inside sleeve below the important line at C. To 
 prove by ocular demonstration the distinguished 
 importance connected with the inside sleeve ; draw 
 a line from the elbow to the top, about three inches 
 from the fore-seam ; this line is fixed to the bottom 
 of the scye. If it is made too short, by being hollow- 
 ed too much, even three quarters of an inch ; the two 
 inside sleeves will contract the shoulders one and a 
 half inch, because the elbow is connected with the 
 back-seam. The goddess of fashion has required 
 the outside sleeve to be extremely large, she may 
 do so again, then draw a line across the top of the 
 back arm-seam, say two or three inches ; form the 
 extra width of the outside, without altering the top 
 of the fore-arm seam ; the inside sleeve will remain 
 the same ; now form the back arm-seam from the 
 top to the elbow ; the elbow is a fixed principle, 
 which is in conjunction with the top of the inside- 
 sleeve, and must not be altered by widths. 
 
45 
 
 The sleeve for a short man requires attention. 
 
 It is common to find this sleeve measure, in "lengthy 
 thirty inches ; refer to your order book, which will 
 be found the following measure : length, four, 
 sixteen, thirty-eight ; width round the breast, forty- 
 four ; waist, forty-five ; sleeve, seven and a half, equal 
 nineteen, thirty-two: round the elbow, seven and a 
 half; wrist, five inches. First find the length from 
 A ^to E, which must be thirty-five inches, indepen- 
 dent of the length of this sleeve. A is the centre 
 of the back ; from A to B one quarter, which is five 
 and a half inches. It is from this mark at B the 
 sleeve must be produced ; from B to C one third, 
 which is seven inches and five eighths ; lay the square 
 on the back-arm-seam ; draw a square line across 
 the sleeve from C ; from B to D one half, or eleven 
 inches ; make D your pivot, to draw a round line 
 from B to the square Ime at C, which finds the top 
 of the fore-seam ; lay the measure at A, which is 
 the back-seam at the centre line, (when the length 
 of the sleeve is measured, the tailor places the end 
 of the measure at the centre of the back, to obtain 
 the length, independent of the fore-arm seam.) 
 This back is seven and a half wide, but it may be 
 eight inches, or only six inches. This width is in- 
 dependent of the length between the centre of the 
 back and the elbow. The position of this sleeve 
 must not be injured by widths or lengths. The 
 width across the sleeve at C is ten and a half inches ; 
 if the fore-arm-seam at the wrist was cut by the 
 
 7 
 
46 
 
 width at the top, it would be two inches too crooked, 
 which would twist the sleeve at the top. To con- 
 nect lengths and icidths at their respective points, 
 the length must be governed by the Anato- 
 mical Standard, which is thirty-five inches. JXow 
 mark ten inches across the top line at C : lay your 
 square at that width, and draw a square line to the 
 length at thirty-five, or make the length at thirty- 
 five, ten inches wide. This width is produced by 
 iheorij, as connected with the circumference of 
 forty-two inches round the breast. This width 
 must be the standard principle of all sizes beyond 
 it. For instance, the sleeve across the line at C 
 may be justly required to be thirteen inches, but 
 the same width at lh(! wrist would injure the posi- 
 tion of the fore-seam. Now refer to the length of 
 this elbow, which is nineteen inches; the width is 
 seven and a half inches, or as it may be. Now 
 mark the fore-arm-seam, from the top to the width, 
 across the elbow ; continue it to the length at thirty- 
 five. The length of this sleeve is thirty inches ; 
 now mark the proper length. The position of this 
 sleeve is the same as the long aim, but shorter. If 
 the length of any sleeve should require to be thirty- 
 nine inches, or any other length, the Anatomical 
 Standard of thirty-five inches must be the governing 
 principle ; then continue the shape of the fore-arm- 
 seam to the length required. 
 
47 
 
 The sleeve for a tall thin man. 
 
 Refer to your order book ; the following measure 
 may be found by every respectable tailor in the 
 United States. Length, five and a half, nineteen, 
 forty-four; sleeve, six, twenty-two and a half, thirty- 
 seven ; breast, thirty-one ; waist, twenty-nine. Mark 
 this sleeve by theory and measure ; the width across the 
 bottom at thirty-five, must be eight and a half inches, 
 because the circumference round the body is not in 
 unison with the height; whatever the width may be, 
 less than thirty-six inches ought not to injure the posi- 
 tion of the sleeve. The trade will now understand the 
 cause why gentlemen's coats did fit the body without 
 the sleeves, but when the same were finished they 
 could perceive blunders, injurious to the tailor as a 
 cutter, attended with serious expenses, and loss of 
 connection. 
 
 To understand the variations from theory, refer 
 to the dissertation on the position of the Human 
 Shape. 
 
48 
 
 To cut a coat for a tall thin man. The measure 
 
 5i, 20, 43. 6i, 22, 39. 9^, 23, 24l 32, 29. Hol- 
 loiv waist. Shoulders forwai'd. 
 
 The breast measure for this well-made man is 
 only thirty-two inches, yet the width of the back is 
 required to be six and a half inches wide across the 
 shoulder ; if it was cut by breast-thirds, across the 
 centre-line at A, it would only be five inches and 
 three eighths wide. This back would not affect the 
 fit of the coat, but could not add to the appearance 
 of this man. It is the duty of a tailor to improve 
 the shape, as well as fitting the human frame. 
 When the back and foreparts are marked out by 
 science, or by measure and theory., refer to the 
 back-seam at the shoulder ; draw another line one 
 inch from the said line ; then mark S directly op- 
 posite. Lay the back on the extra line. This part 
 of the science is required for thin men. The two 
 thirds from C to D being only ten inches and three 
 fourths by Theory, will not produce a sufiicient 
 width across the shoulders. Refer to part fifth of 
 the Anatomical Measure, which will prove (by ocu- 
 lar demonstration) that the science which will fit 
 one man cannot fit another. As the back-seam is 
 made one inch wider than theory, the neck-line or 
 fore-part-gorge must be made one inch more for- 
 ward at the shoulder seam ; this will produce a 
 proper width across the shoulders for thin men. 
 The back and foreparts are now formed by the 
 length and width, but the shape or position must be 
 
49 
 
 understood to insure a complete fit. According to 
 the order book ; this shape is hollow waist. Then 
 move the back down one inch at the side-seam, 
 shoulders forward (which is a very common 'posi- 
 tion) ; tlien make the forepart shoulder-seam one 
 inch more forward for a tall man, and half an inch 
 for a short man ; because a short man cannot stoop 
 his head forward in the same proportion as a tall 
 man. If the position should be round shouldered, 
 or stooping forward from the waist, then raise the 
 back one inch at the side-seam, and take one inch 
 extra off the forepart side-seam at the top ; then 
 the front of the scye will be made one inch more 
 forward. The shoulder-seam must be one inch 
 more forward, and one inch taken off at the top, 
 but not altered at the shoulder towards the scye. 
 Refer to part Eighth of the illustration of the Ana- 
 tomical Figure Measure. 
 
59 
 
 *ro cut a coat for a short stout man. The Mea- 
 sure 4, 15^, 38. 61, 19% 30. 44, 45. Upright 
 position. 
 
 The shape of this man cannot be improved by 
 extra widths. If this back was cut by hr east-thirds, 
 it would be seven inches and three eighths wide 
 across the centre-line at A. The height of neck is 
 only four inches, independent of the icidth. Mark 
 the foreparts by the science ; take off one inch extra 
 at the top of the side-seam. Draw an extra line at 
 the shoulders three fourths of an inch towards the 
 forepart ; mark S on that line ; lay the back on this 
 line. The two thirds from C to D is fourteen and 
 three fourths inches ; the quantity of cloth (as pro- 
 duced by science) must be diminished to complete 
 a first rate fit. The cause. A stout short man 
 never was so wide across the shoulders as a thin 
 man by proportions; therefore the same science 
 which is required to fit a tall thin man, cannot Jit a 
 short stout man. The length of the neck-line, and 
 the large scye required for the short stout man, when 
 compared with the same for a tall thin man, ought 
 to be understood by the tailor. The spring of the 
 skirt behind for the short stout man, must be pro- 
 duced by laying the square at B in unison with the 
 waist ; it must be admitted that a waist larger than 
 the breast cannot be as hollow as a small waist. If 
 the man is tall and thin., and stooping forward from 
 the waist, the spring of the skirt ought to be govern- 
 ed by B. The cause must be understood to qualify 
 the tailor to be a practical cutter. 
 
51 
 
 To cut Coats for Labouring Men. 
 
 Such coats are generally ordered to be cut easy, 
 especially in the front of the arm. Cut this coat by 
 a correct measure and science, then add three-quar- 
 ters of an inch on the fore-part shoulder-seam ; make 
 the neck-line three-quarters of an inch more forward. 
 Take three-quarters of an inch extra off the width 
 at the top of the side-seam, which will cause the 
 front of the scye to be three-quarters of an inch more 
 forward ; then make the fore-arm-seam of the sleeve 
 three-quarters of an inch longer at C. This coat 
 will be one and a half inch wider across the shoul- 
 ders, which is required for shootinir-coats, sea-cap- 
 tains ; and for all kinds of manual labour. 
 
m 
 
 Over-Coats. 
 
 The measure must be taken by the same prin- 
 ciple as for the dress coat. The length must be 
 made to suit the customer. The width to be taken 
 over the vest, or under the coat; then inquire what 
 sort af coat is to be worn nndor. Take the width 
 round the breast and waist, over the said coat. This 
 measure, (under the coat) breast thirty-six inches, 
 and waist thirty-one inches, above the coat thirty- 
 nine inches, and thirty-three inches. 
 
 It is now justly presumed, that the science of cut- 
 ting is understood. The quality of the cloth must 
 have attention. If superline clotii, cut the back by 
 the height of neck, which is four and a half inches, 
 the length and width must be subjected to the tai- 
 lor's judgment. The skirt to be cut by the science 
 already explained. This coat is required to fold 
 well over in front, take off about two inches at the 
 top in front, but this is a variation connected with 
 the size of the waist. 
 
 Mark the fore-parts by the same size and science 
 as the dress coat, allowing one seam from A to B, 
 from B to C, and from C to D. When the fore- 
 parts are marked by a knowledge of the shape, size 
 and position, then add one inch on the shoulder- 
 seam, and make the neck-line one inch more for- 
 ward ; take off one inch extra at the top of the side- 
 seam, which will cause the front of the scye to be 
 one inch more forward. The sleeve must be one 
 inch longer at the top of the fore-seam, the width 
 
53 
 
 must be affected at the back arm-seam. This coat 
 is two inches wider across the shoulders than the 
 dress coat. As ov£7'-coats are made to go over 
 other garments, they will serve to elucidate the dis- 
 tinction between height and width ; for example, 
 this coat is required to be larger than the dress 
 coat, but the height of neck remains the same. The 
 arm-hole must be made to go over the dress coat, 
 but to do this effectually is a serious subject. If 
 the cloth should be double milled, then the science 
 at the shoulder, front of the scye, the neck-line, 
 the top of the side-seam and length of fore arm- 
 seam, should be cut larger in proportion to the 
 quality of the cloth, which cause a variation from 
 system. If this coat was cut by the width over the 
 coat, and by the same science as the dress coat, the 
 parts connected with widths would not be in unison 
 with lengths; for instance, the inside sleeve would 
 be one inch too short, to the elbow — the coat would 
 be too short in front from the top of the back, across 
 the front of the scye to the waist. IMie length to 
 the elbow, is in union with the width across the 
 back. This coat would be contracted across the- 
 shoulders, although it may be cut extremely wide. 
 
54 
 
 Regimental Coats. 
 
 The size of the neck ought to be correctly taken. 
 This coat is required to be extremely full across the 
 breast ; when the back and fore-parts are maiked 
 out by a knowledge of the shape and position, then 
 mark the fore-part gorge or neck-line, one and a half 
 inch more forward. Move the back down at the 
 side-seam one inch ; if this fore-part was made of 
 copper or tin, the neck-line would be one and a half 
 inch too high, but the cloth falls down across the 
 breast, which forms an extra quantity in front for 
 wadding and padding ; ibis fore-part would be alto- 
 gether wrong for a dress coat. 
 
55 
 
 Practical and Experimental Observations on the 
 Height of Neck, and the various positions. 
 
 First select two men, each six feet high; the 
 arms one length ; the width round the breast and 
 waist the same; one an erect, the other stooping 
 position. It must now be admitted, that the said 
 coats, (when produced according to each shape,) 
 could not be cut by one and the same science. The 
 centre-line for the first man would be five inches ; 
 for the other five inches and a half. The science 
 for cutting these two backs, would vary only one 
 half inch from the centre-line to the top, and 
 be half an inch shorter at the side-seam. Yet the 
 science required to fit the shape of both men, will 
 cause the hip buttons to be two inches higher when 
 on the stooping position, if both men are acknow- 
 ledged to be one height. The stooping figure must 
 be one and a half inch longer, from the centre 
 line to the waist, or the length of the backs must be 
 cut incorrect, as the back ought to be cut first, by the 
 height and shape of the man. For the important 
 cause why the hip buttons on the stooping position 
 should be two inches higher, refer to part Eighth 
 of the Anatomical Measure. Reflect on this part 
 of the science. This measure or science is made 
 use of to convey practical knowledge. If the hip 
 buttons are to be one height from the ground, and 
 €ach coat skirt to be one length, it is evident that the 
 back seam for the stooping position must be two 
 inches longer behind, which clearly demonstrates 
 
56 
 
 that true and genuine science, when applied to fit 
 the liuman figure, must be governed by a correct 
 measure to insure a complete fit. 
 
 Allow a coat pattern to be cut fi^r each man by a 
 true knowledge of length, shape, and position. 
 Compare them by laying the centre-line of each 
 back together; the stooping back will be half an 
 inch higher, the side-seam one and a half inch 
 longer, the back-seam two inches longer. The 
 forepart side-seam will be two inches higher and 
 one inch more forward at the top ; the neck-line 
 one and a half inch more forward, and one inch 
 shorter at the top, and one inch lower at the front ; 
 the scye will be one inch more forward. When this 
 shape is produced by science and measure, and the 
 cause properly understood, the confidence which 
 must be the result of such knowledge, must be a 
 valuable acquisition to a great majority of the trade. 
 
 The erect position produces the hollow waist, 
 but the shape of the hollow is connected with the 
 size of the waist. An extreme small waist is ge- 
 nerally ornamented with large hips. The principal 
 cause for not fitting this well-made shape, the fore- 
 part neck-line is cut too high, or what the trade 
 call too straight, for the back ; and when the back 
 is sewed to the foreparts, they are then one in 
 union both in height and width. When the man 
 stands or walks upright, the part called the back 
 brings the part called the foreparts down behind; the 
 cloth at the front of the scye is twisted ; the cloth 
 from the bottom of the scye being partly twisted 
 and brought down by the back. The inside sleeve 
 
57 
 
 moves the cloth off at the waist, when the coat is 
 unbuttoned ; but button the same coat in front at 
 the waist, require the awful operative arms to be 
 kept down ; then pull the coat down at the waist ; 
 it may now be a tolerable fit. But allow the same 
 man to walk two hours, with the coat buttoned, 
 then the part called the back will appear as if the 
 journeyman had no claim to experience ; yet the 
 coat might be extremely well made. 
 
 A tall man with a small waist may be stooping 
 forward at the shoulders, yet may be very hollow 
 at the waist, as this position cannot be denominated 
 round-shouldered, the side-seam must be cut by 
 the same principle as already explained for the up- 
 right 'position ; the shoulder-seam must be made 
 three fourths of an inch more forward, and three 
 fourths of an inch shorter at the top ; the scye 
 three fourths of an inch more forward. Lay the 
 back in a joined position at the shoulder. Now 
 take notice of the back-seam-line. As this shape 
 stoops forward at the shoulders only, more cloth is 
 required from the bottom of the scye to the centre- 
 line, across the back at the shoulders ; the back is 
 now raised above the line. Confine the top with 
 your finger and bring the back-seam to the back- 
 seam line, at the waist of the back ; the back- 
 seam will now convey to your ideas the shape of 
 this figure. As this position is very general in the 
 United States, it must be of the utmost importance 
 to understand a true and practical science for pro- 
 ducing the width across the shoulders, and fitting 
 the hollow waist. The figure six at the shoulder- 
 
58 
 
 seam, (see No. 2 on the plate,) represents the 
 neck-line as cut by a majority of the trade in the 
 City of New- York. Ten years ago, the figures 
 three and four, at the shoulder-seam, were the ge- 
 neral standard for the neck-line ; it was found by 
 expensive experience to be too low, or too crooked ; 
 both extremes are the effects produced by cutting 
 the part belonging to the height by a division of 
 icidth. The neck-line, as produced by this science, 
 is as high or straight for a short man, as it is for a 
 tall man, according to their respective heights. Re- 
 fer to parts sixth and seventh of the Illustration of 
 the Anatomical Figure Measure. 
 
59 
 
 High and low shoulders. 
 
 High shoulders being raised up, causes the neck 
 to be low. The centre-line at A for a man six feet 
 high, (according to this shape,) will not exceed /owr 
 inches and a half. This back may be cut extreme- 
 ly wide across the centre-line, without producing an 
 elegant and graceful fit. When the foreparts are 
 formed by true science, refer to the back proof- 
 measure. If the man is tall and thin, the shoulder 
 at the scye will require to be raised three quarters 
 of an inch ; if short and thin, about half an inch. 
 Stout men, either tall or short, do not require the 
 shoulder raised in proportion to thin men. This 
 shape ought to be criticized by every cutter, for the 
 height of neck is an important subject ; with high 
 shoulders, such coats are generally cut one inch too 
 high at the neck, and the scye made large ; but 
 such maxims never did, nor never will fit the posi- 
 tion. 
 
 The low shoulder is connected with a round 
 shape, which is more difficult to be comprehended 
 by observation, than any other anatomical part of 
 the human figure, and would be extremely tedious 
 to explain by pen. The effect cannot be correctly 
 produced without a due knowledge of the cause. 
 The operative tailor's left shoulder is a little lower 
 than the right one, which is caused by the inaction 
 of the left arm. Carpenters, and even clerks, and 
 all sort of employment which causes the right arm 
 to be used more than the left, ought to be understood 
 
60 
 
 by the tailor as an anatomical cause connected 
 with the external shape of the human figure. 
 
 Inactive life may produce this shape. 
 
 Men who are fat, yet not corpulent, and who are 
 not engaged in active business, who measure nearly 
 the same width round the waist as they do at the 
 breast, common or erect positions, are generally 
 low at the shoulder. 
 
 When the forepart is formed by true science, 
 take three fourths of an inch off at the top of the 
 left scye ; make the shoulder-seam the proper length 
 at the scye, but do not alter the top at the neck- 
 line. The left sleeve may be made three fourths 
 of an inch smaller at the back-arm-seam. 
 
 The height of neck is now reduced to a practical 
 principle. The anatomical standard is four and 
 a half inches to the centre-line. Allowiiifr the 
 height to be five feet ten inches, it is a positive fact 
 that the height of five feet five inches does not vary 
 the eighth of an inch. The height of live feet will 
 be four inches ; five feet two or three inches will 
 not make the sixteenth part of an inch higher. 
 The height above five feet ten inches will be four 
 inches and three fourths. The man must be ex- 
 tremely tall to require the centre-line to be more 
 than five and a half inches from the top. The 
 length of the back-seam and sleeve cannot fail in 
 giving the tailor the height of neck. The genuine 
 principles of this science, which obtains every part 
 of the coat belonging to icidth, by the division of 
 icidth, and the parts peculiarly belonging to height 
 
61 
 
 or length, Uy the science of length, and uniting the 
 lengths and widths at their respective places. 
 
 For instance, the scye belongs to width ; but the 
 bottom at C is in conjunction with the height. 
 The shoulder-seam belongs entirely to the width. 
 The neck-line belongs to the height. When the 
 length to the elbow is measured, the width of the 
 back is included ; then the sleeve at the back-arm- 
 seam is only length, from the back-scye ; but the 
 elbow is connected with the width across the shoul- 
 ders, therefore the elbow is united with both length 
 and width. 
 
62 
 The distinction between varialions and positions. 
 
 A oariation from science must be required by 
 some known cause, and they are very few. For in- 
 stance, the shooting coat, which requires more room 
 across the shoulders than a dress coat for the same 
 man, may be considered a variation from system ; 
 but tlie shooting coat requires an art peculiar to 
 itself. Therefore that art (which is a stranger) 
 must be a science, and not a variation ; but the 
 quality of the stuff, or the distinction between su- 
 perfine and stout double-milled cloth ; also, vel- 
 veteen or stout fustian produces a variation. The 
 dress coat, and one for labour for the same man, 
 produces another variation. The goddess of fashion 
 cannot produce a variation from this science. She 
 will be honoured by this art with distinguished 
 grace, and refined experience. 
 
 The tall thifi man, with stooping shoulders and 
 hollow waist, is not disgraced by this science : he is 
 not allowed to be numbered amongst the ^Ulispro- 
 portionate.''^ This well-made figure requires an 
 art to make a complete fit. The short stout man 
 cannot be fitted by any other science than that 
 which is applicable. The science which is required 
 to fit the tall thin, and the short stout man, are dis- 
 tinct arts, but not variations. 
 
 The distinguished science for cutting one coat 
 to be worn over another, requires a peculiar atten- 
 tion. It has been criticised by competent judges, 
 and is a valuable acquisition to every tailor, who 
 professes to be a cutter. 
 
63 
 
 This garment is orderod by all the authors of 
 systems and teachers of cutting, " to he cut by th4i 
 sainc system as the dress coat, only to ttiake it 
 larger.'^ That this coat should be made " larger''^ 
 is a certain fact, but it is very strange that ten 
 years' experience should not produce one practical 
 principle connected with this coat. Refer to the 
 preface, page fifteen — "Improvement being a higher 
 object than the paltry pleasure of discovering the 
 faults of others." The respectable tailors in the 
 City of New- York are now solemnly appealed to : 
 can any of them honourably announce that they ever 
 witnessed a true science for cutting this coat \ Many 
 systems of cutting have been imported from En- 
 gland, and volumes on the same subject have 
 been published throughout Europe. What merit 
 either or all of them can claim, must be left to the 
 criticism of competent judges of merit or demerit. 
 Each author and plagiarist are entitled to a portion 
 of respect for creating a spirit of inquiry, and rous- 
 ing the lethargy which had captivated a majority of 
 the trade some years ag-o. Yet it must be admitted 
 a solemn fact, that a true science for cutting this coat 
 never was offered for the inspection of the trade. 
 
64 
 
 Military Uniforms. 
 
 The shape is governed by " Kegulationy Great 
 importance is attached to the cutting of uniforms ; 
 but the talent is peculiarly displayed by the journey- 
 men. The length of the collar, and the width across 
 the breast, with a wide back and easy scye, are the 
 parts where the cutter is required to excel. The sys- 
 tem already explained will stand the test of the 
 most rigid criticism, and qualify the trade to cut 
 this coat with precision. 
 
 ADVERTISEMENT TO TAILORS. 
 
 Mr. Jackson appeals to the professional skill 
 and consummate practice of every respectable tailor 
 in the United States, if it is probable that his ac- 
 quired knowledge can fail to instruct the young and 
 inexperienced part of the trade, and to mature the 
 ideas of those who are farther advanced in the 
 science of cutting. He is unwilling even to receive 
 the approbation of any man, without a rational convic- 
 tion ; for duplicity lives only to fade ingloriously. 
 Merchant tailors' sons, who require improvement for 
 practical business, have now the means offered 
 them, by applying to the Author, for personal in- 
 struction, which may be obtained at a moderate ex- 
 pense ; because the art and science of cutting is 
 
G5 
 
 now reduced to simplicity, by a true knowledge of 
 cause and effect, ond made universally applicable to 
 all shapes and sizes. 
 
 Mr. J. is aware that some part of the trade may 
 attempt to depreciate the utility of this treatise, 
 and may question the principles which are connect- 
 ed with the variations and positions of the human 
 shape. They are respectfully invited to meet him 
 before experienced men, when he will be happy to 
 prove by ocular demonstration, and incontrovertible 
 evidence, the validity of every part of the anatomi- 
 cal principles of this treatise. The next volume 
 will contain a valuable science for cutting breeches, 
 pantaloons, vests, box-coats, ladies' habits, and 
 children's garments. The length will be divided 
 from the width by anatomical principles. 
 
 Due notice will be given. The price will be re- 
 duced as low as the expenses will warrant. 
 
 The engravings will be executed in a manner 
 worthy of securing a distinguished place on the 
 cutting- board. The diction and style of the volume 
 will be perfectly suited for the library of every re- 
 spectable tailor in the United States. 
 
 Authors on cutting, especially plagiarists, (and 
 the majority of pretended authors are positively 
 plagiarists,) generally intrude on the credulity of 
 unthinking men. One commences by publicly stat- 
 ing " that he was honoured with the patronage and 
 recommendation of nearly three hundred master 
 tailors of acknowledged genius and reputation." 
 The conditions and character of such ^^ patronage'''' 
 may be found in a book, but never was so in reality. 
 
66 ^ 
 
 .The "new hypothcMs''' and " ajiafomical precision'^ 
 of such an author may be first-rate lang-uagc, but 
 the said " new hypothesis" found the bottom of the 
 hack-scyc by the third of the breast measure ; and 
 the forepart neck-line was produced too low. The 
 mark on the shoulder-seam at 4, represents the said 
 neck-line. Refer to the plate. The Tailors' De- 
 bating Society, London, exposed the duplicity of 
 the authors, and the credulity of "nearly three hun- 
 dred patrons ^ 
 
 The same Author has published a " new and 
 improved edition.^'' He says, " in producing the 
 shape of the coat, it will be advisable to mark it on 
 paper, in preference to cloth, as it can be done with 
 greater accuracy ; and the paper patterns, if pre- 
 served, may be made applicable to use for any per- 
 son of a corresponding bigness of breast." This is 
 complete murder. If cutting cloth was a capital 
 offence by law, against Tailor's property and expe- 
 rience, such Authors would be exposed to lord El- 
 lenborough's act of Parliament, for intentionally 
 cutting, maiming and mutilating, the property and 
 faculties of the trade. It must be admitted that if 
 Tailors are not benefited by this " new and im- 
 proved system,^'' the paper-makers may ; but the 
 idea that paper can be cut with " greater accuracy 
 than cloth,^^ may be a requisite expedient for sys- 
 tem manufacturers, but never was the acknow- 
 ledged principle of any cutter. The plan may be 
 Justly allowed to be original, but the maxim implies 
 gross ignorance of useful knowledge. 
 
 This " neiQ and improved system,'^ makes the 
 
67 
 
 bottom of the back scye one inch loss than the third 
 from the top, and the fore-part neck-line extremely 
 high, which is represented by 6. Refer to the plate. 
 This " new and improved system'' was imported 
 into the city of New- York, five years ag-o. This 
 neck-line is the predominant system amongst the 
 majority of Tailors in this city, which is the princi- 
 pal cause of injuring the fit at the waist. 
 
 Another Author says, (in the year 1822) " A diffi- 
 culty may arise in some men's minds, how to ascer- 
 tain the height of a person. The following method 
 will answer the purpose : — when measuring the 
 length of the sleeve, take the distance from the 
 back-seam to the second joint of the little finger, 
 and double that length will be the height of a pro- 
 portionate man, if the arm is kept straight." Also, 
 by the same Author, "If a man isjlvefect six inches 
 high, six inches is the required proportion for the 
 bottom of the back-scye." The Tailor is now re- 
 quested to examine the date of this Author's publi- 
 cation. Now for plagiarism ! This Author's idea 
 of height, and dividing it from the width by his sys- 
 tem, was the most rational one which ever was pub- 
 lished in London at the same date. 
 
 The trade is now improved so as to fit the human 
 shape, by " three measures onlyy This is cutting 
 with a vengeance ! The Author of cutting a coat, 
 vest, and pantaloons, by three measures only, may 
 claim " originality,^^ and his " divisions of the 
 breast, by inches, eighths of inches, and fractions 
 of eighths," may be considered, (by some Tailors) 
 " the march of intellect." This plagiarist attempts 
 
68 
 
 to imitate the aforesaid " 7iew and improved sys~ 
 temr His fore-part ncck-Unc is the very same 
 height, as representod by 6, at the shoulder-seam. 
 Refer to the plate. - 
 
 Another syste7n-ma7iufacturer could not succeed 
 with " the breast measure on the old principle." 
 He has recourse to '' cardinaV and " level mea- 
 sures." The industrious and reflecting part of the 
 trade, may now find wonderful improvements, or 
 genuine ideas for the amusement of their risible 
 faculties. 
 
 The trade is hereby informed that Mr. Jackson 
 has not authorized any man to teach his science. 
 Neither will he publish any letters which may be 
 written in his favour, nor will he solicit the favours 
 of the trade by the old-fashioned and hypocritical 
 cant of ^^ Patronagep by publishing names. 
 
 The science which is now offered to the trade, 
 must stand or fall by its own merit. 
 
 The division table of the breast measure is not 
 made applicable to " fractions of the eighth of an 
 inch," but it is positively made intelligible, and can 
 be comprehended by any Tailor, who may require 
 to be a cutter. 
 
 N, B. The Tailor's Director, price $6 00 
 
 FINIS. 
 
r*