HH 
 
 BH 
 
 an 
 
 n 
 
V* 
 
 O V 
 
 ^pS 
 
 W 
 
 
 ^^ ° s a^»"» *> <*' *dSW&>*\ ^^ 
 
 ^cv 
 
 4 o 
 
 *■ o 
 
 r oK 
 
 «■ V 
 
 
 o_ * 
 
 
 4 o 
 
 
 
 
 * o»o ^J 
 
 S*0« 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 <■ 
 
 <*' 
 
 

 ^ 
 
 ^ °- ; 
 
 iO v* 
 
 > 
 
 %> " n A V **To' ** 
 
 ,4 
 
 
 
 4 O 
 
 v> 
 
 
 V^ 
 
 
Hill Men and Filers' 
 HANDY GUIDE 
 
 > 
 
 BY M. COVEL. 
 
 WITH GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR 
 
 HAMMERING SAWS, 
 
 THEIR CARE AND USAGE, 
 
 — ALSO ~ 
 
 M. COVEL'S SAW SHARPENER 
 
 — AND — 
 
 COMPLETE SAW BENCH. 
 
 Plates and Figures representing all Implements 
 
 to be spoken of, and how can be best 
 
 managed will appear in their 
 
 respective places. 
 
 
 
 STEREOTYPE EDITION. 
 
 g'j '■■j.j y 
 

 Copyrighted, Sept. 29, 1881, 
 
 — BY — 
 
 M. COVEL. 
 
 ^r 
 
 VqA 
 
 
CO INDEX. CO 
 
 Page 
 
 Introductory , 5 
 
 Arbor, instructions in reference to...... 63 
 
 Burnt saws . 93 
 
 Carriage and Track » 5o 
 
 Changing saws from right to left 114 
 
 Cross-cut saws, their care 119 
 
 Drag-saws 143 
 
 Dressing of saws , . . . 10 
 
 Examination for defects of saw 107 
 
 Fitting point of teeth 33 
 
 File-room with necessary tools 62 
 
 Gauge of saws 21 
 
 Gain from thin saws 40 
 
 Gang-saws 121 
 
 Hand-saws 143 
 
4 
 
 Hammering saws 71 
 
 Hammering saws that are too open in center 9 1 
 
 Hammering gang-saws 136 
 
 Hammering shingle-saws 117 
 
 Inserted teeth saw 42 
 
 Laying out saws for hammering 82 
 
 Large band saw 144 
 
 Leading saw by use of the hammer 116 
 
 Mulay-saws 142 
 
 Number of teeth for saw „ 2 5 
 
 Patent ground or taper straight- gaugg saws 45 
 
 Speed of saws 17 
 
 Shape of teeth 27 
 
 Straight-edge and its use . . . . a 74 
 
 Straightening a dished saw 85 
 
 Side-Jointer a 1 34 
 
 Saw that is too stiff 97 
 
 Saw with loose spot 99 
 
 To hang gang-saws 122 
 
 To make the best shaped teeth 1 30 
 
 Twisted saw 95 
 
 The complete saw bench 65 
 
 Thickness of saws . .• 1 5 
 
 Whose make are the best saws 48 
 
 Conclusion 148 
 
 Testimonials 1 55 
 
THE 
 
 CARE and MANAGEMENT 
 
 j op ( 
 
 MILL SAWS. 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 The following is compiled with a view of 
 conveying to "Mill Men" such instructions 
 as will be of intrinsic value to them, in the 
 care and management of saws ; giving such 
 points as will enable them to produce more 
 lumber, and of a better quality from timber 
 used. 
 
 The following instructions are more espe- 
 
6 
 
 daily directed for the grades of saws that will 
 be prominently mentioned, as also some other 
 subjects closely connected with the foregoing. 
 
 The great desideratum of producing lum- 
 ber at the lowest cost, is ot the utmost im- 
 portance in this age, and any thing that will 
 reach that end should be sought for and 
 adopted by all that are engaged in the busi- 
 ness. The greatest source of annoyance is 
 the saws ; and anything that will benefit these 
 should be adopted. 
 
 I shall, as briefly as possible, introduce 
 some things that are original with myself, as 
 far as I know, as also many more that I have 
 obtained from the best authorities in the 
 country ; I have gathered in the last five (5) 
 years, by going from one mill to another, and 
 thus learning the experience of over a thou- 
 sand of the best millwrights, filers and saw- 
 yers in the United States and the Canadas ; 
 and at the same time have had experience in 
 upwards of one hundred of the best mills. 
 
 And for the past twenty-five years I have 
 
7 
 made the saw my constant study, in regard to 
 the handling, and to get at the best possible 
 results for its work. 
 
 I have had experience with all kinds and 
 makes of saws, which has given me more prac- 
 tical knowledge than any other man in the 
 country, both in hammering and dressing 
 them. I -sought and acquired this knowledge 
 for the purpose of furnishing mill men with 
 such mechanical tools that would enable them 
 to accomplish more and better work from their 
 saws ; and with what I have gained and gath- 
 ered by my own experience, I am enabled to 
 furnish such machines and tools as will enable 
 any one to make a favorable difference in their 
 mills of from five to twenty-five per cent, in 
 the cutting capacity, and from three to five 
 per cent, in the stock which is going to saw- 
 dust. 
 
 I have carefully watched all the changes 
 made in saws for the last twenty- five years, 
 and with some, improvements have been made, 
 yet many, no improvements; which, of the 
 
8 
 
 latter, manufacturers are trying to force on un- 
 skilled mill men, and seemingly with success, 
 and when the worthless product is brought 
 into use it will not meet the requirements. I 
 do not claim any more credit than other stran- 
 gers, until you are better acquainted; nor do I 
 wish any one to take my word solely, but test 
 what I have to offer, and I know satisfaction 
 will be the result. 
 
 I will furnish any number of references if 
 desirable to establish the validity of my state- 
 ments and that too within the reach of any 
 mill man. 
 
 The experience I have had cannot be acquired 
 by what can be learned in a dozen mills. The 
 more of arts and the larger the field, the more 
 information there is to be gained. I do not 
 claim to have learned all there is to be learned, 
 but probably as much as can well be of utility 
 at the present. With the world's stride, know- 
 ledge should keep pace; one must become 
 educated to things new, in order to be suc- 
 cessful in their use. Many of the things I shall 
 
9 
 offer are old, and many men thoroughly familiar 
 with, yet there are a large number that are 
 entirely ignorant of, and many points that have 
 been abandoned by good men, owing to circum- 
 stances which have wrought changes (but in 
 reality of no importance to them) while others 
 have seen good points and to advantage. I 
 propose to discard such as has but little merit, 
 although at times can be used- with success. 
 I meet a great many skeptics in regard to some 
 things I advocate, because they were old, and 
 when used were condemned from other than the 
 right causes. Now what one man can do with 
 a saw another can do also, if the saw is kept in 
 the same condition and under like circumstances. 
 
IO 
 
 DRESSING OF SAWS. 
 
 There are but few men that dress their saws 
 properly, and if they have different saws will 
 fail to dress them alike. It is often said they can- 
 not file saws uniform because they do not run 
 uniform, every saw will run the same if in the 
 same condition, the reason they are not is 
 simply because the filer does not understand 
 how to test them, nor how to remedy the defect 
 when found. 
 
 No saw should be dressed any other way 
 but right, that is both sides alike, and accurately 
 round and in balance. These are points every 
 one wishes to accomplish, and think they do, 
 but I have never found any one yet, that does 
 it so that it cannot be bettered. And what is 
 right for one saw, applies with equal force to 
 another. 
 
 That in the shape of the teeth, each tooth 
 should come in contact with the timber alike — 
 or all at the same angle. This is a fact that is 
 hard to be done, but with the right kind of a 
 machine will accomplish it if properly managed. 
 No one should go to extremes in any case, 
 there is always a medium point and it has been 
 
1 1 
 
 my endeavor to ascertain where that is— and 
 point it out, more particularly with saws than 
 any other implement. What I may offer will 
 give the best of results if followed closely. A 
 great many will impracticably follow them and 
 because they do not accomplish what I claim they 
 will, condemn all my implements and recom- 
 mendations, and fall back in the old way. Now, 
 if such have anything better and keep the same 
 to themselves, it will never benefit others. 
 There is no tool in use that there is more de- 
 manded of it than the saw, and no implement 
 more misused. The success of mills depend 
 upon the saw, therefore it does not pay to em- 
 ploy unskilled men to have the care of them, 
 and the demand is such for skilled labor, that 
 but few of that class are to be had. The frequent 
 inquiry I have had for good filers and sawyers 
 has led me to furnish such instructions to mill 
 men and filers, that they can get along more 
 successfully than they now do. 
 
 I will endeavor to point out in detail, what 
 will make the most successful runing saws, and 
 will try to make it so clear, that any one may 
 gain the benefits of my time and expense spent 
 in this line to acquaint myself upon the subject. 
 
12 
 
 It would take the best part of a life-time to 
 get the experience necessary to become a No. i 
 mechanic, and the only way to learn from one 
 another is to be teachable on the ground of 
 science and experience. The time has come, 
 when it is essential for a filer to thoroughly 
 understand the hammering of saws, as that 
 constitutes a part of his business, and he cannot 
 be counted a first class filer until he has that 
 acquirement. There are a great many filers 
 that could with the instructions this is designed 
 to give, enable them to hammer their saws and 
 have better success in runing them after becom- 
 ing fully acquainted with instructions and follow 
 them to the letter, as it is very nice work, and 
 requiring the utmost care, therefore one cannot 
 be too careful as it calls for close judgment and 
 workmanship. 
 
 There are some points I shall explain that are 
 ahead of anything now in use, which will enable 
 a new beginner to accomplish more work alone, 
 than some of the old hands now can with a 
 helper. Filers that can hammer their saws and 
 do it right, are worth to employer three dollars 
 per day more than one that cannot. 
 
 The simple expense of hammering saws, is 
 
i3 
 
 not where the difference comes in, it is in al- 
 ways having the saw ready to do its work. If 
 a filer understands the hammering, and has the 
 right kind of tools to do it, and can examine the 
 saw every time it comes off the arbor, and if it 
 does not run right, remedy the evil at once, that 
 would save all the trouble that is now expe- 
 rienced with poor running saws. 
 
 A delay of 1 5 minutes in a day would make 
 the difference of 3 to 4 dollars in some mills. 
 It is not necessary for a saw to stop to compute 
 a loss, but may occur by favoring the saw when 
 it will not stand up to the regular feed. Then 
 it is best to take it off the arbor at once, and 
 find where the trouble lays, but as a general 
 thing they are favored through the tour, and 
 then filed to lead them one way or the other, 
 getting in one difficulty, in order to overcome 
 another. In such cases the trouble at first is 
 slight, but under such treatment the saw be- 
 comes worse, and in a few days it is in such 
 shape you cannot do anything ; and thus the 
 lost time accruing, will be sufficient to pay the 
 expense of hammering it several times, besides 
 the poor lumber that has been made, and the 
 result is in many instances of a broken saw, 
 
more than half of the saws broken is for the 
 want of care, allowing them to get in such shape 
 they will dodge on the side of the log, leaving 
 it full enough to crowd the saw over the collars 
 till it gives away, no saw will vary from a 
 straight line without a cause, and any man that 
 understands a saw, will examine and see where 
 the defect is. Heretofore filers had no means 
 convenient but their eye, to detect imperfections 
 in the filing of them, but with my saw-sharpener, 
 it is an easy matter to know if the saw is dressed 
 right, and to keep it so. While heretofore they 
 would change the saw by giving it lead one way 
 or the other, and try again, and generally after 
 trying several times they could do nothing with 
 it, and then send it to some one to hammer 
 that knows but little more than the filers. 
 When a man understands testing the saw, and 
 use of the hammer, five or ten minutes' work 
 will put the saw to rights. 
 
 I will give here full instructions how that may 
 be done, accompanied with cuts showing the 
 defects in saws, and the method of repairing ; 
 and also give definite points that will obviate 
 the much trouble in the past with saws. 
 
i"5 
 THICKNESS OF SAWS. 
 
 The chanees that have been made with 
 saws in the last 2 5 years, the majority of mill 
 men and filers know but little of, changes that 
 have been made in the mean time have been 
 many. When the saw was first being used, no 
 one knew any thing about hammering them 
 open, it was thought the stiffer the plate the 
 better. Then they were all made straight gauge. 
 Following came the taper ground saw, which 
 has been in use 20 years, and is still in use by 
 the majority of mills. Now I would like some 
 one to bring forth proof, that could not suc- 
 cessfully be gainsaid, that it is to the benefit 
 of saws, to have the plate thicker in the center 
 than elsewhere, and convince me of any benefit 
 that could be thus derived. For it would be 
 far easier for me to be convinced that I am 
 wrong, than to make 3 / 4 of all the men using 
 these, that they are wrong. But since the 
 motion of saws have been increased, the extra 
 steel which is in the center is a detriment to 
 the saw, in room of a benefit — it is well known 
 
i6 
 
 that a saw will not be successfully run when it 
 is stiff in the center. I would by all means 
 prefer it thinner there than otherwise. My 
 reasons for it are : first, a straight saw will run 
 with less set ; second, it requires less hammer- 
 ing to put the saw in the right condition for 
 good running. The less set, the less power it 
 takes to drive it, the lighter it cuts, the less 
 liable it is to buckle, and dodge; every thing 
 that will lighten the running of saw, should be 
 sought for by all interested in their use. 
 
 For a long time there were but few changes 
 made, that materially benefited the running of 
 the saw, but within the last five years there 
 has been much discovered that has nearly 
 doubled its capacity. And other things when 
 better understood, will add to this efficiency 
 2 5 per cent, more than is now realized by the 
 majority of mills. 
 
 At the present time many mills are running 
 thinner and straight gauge saws, some are 
 making a success of straight 8 gauge 60 inch., 
 some do well with 10 gauge 72 inch. I have 
 faith and confidence that 5 years will not have 
 passed, before 10 gauge saws will be run with 
 
i7 
 as much success as is now being done with 8 
 gauge. With what has come under my im- 
 mediate observation in the hammering of saws, 
 and the improved machinery in dressing them, 
 will enable mill men to accomplish what they 
 have heretofore failed to effect. 
 
 SPEED OP SAWS. 
 
 There should be a standard speed for saws, 
 the speed necessary to accomplish the best work ' 
 should be the one adopted. Although there j 
 are matters of opinion to be settled which vary 
 from 7 to 1 5 thousand circular feet per minute. 
 Now there must be a point somewhere between 
 these numbers, that the saws will do the best. 
 
 Saws have been run with the above speed, 
 and I have made this a special point, as it is 
 very essential to know which is just right. , 
 
 Saws can be run at any speed between the 
 above number mentioned, but there is a medium 
 point, one that the saw will do the best work. 
 
f8 
 
 My experience has led me to adopt ten thousand 
 circular feet per minute, as the medium speed 
 for all saws, no matter what the size of the 
 saw is, what is right for one, is right for another, 
 or as near that as may be; 5oo or iooo feet 
 variation is hardly perceptable, although I would 
 much rather have just the right speed, but it will 
 vary slightly as the saw wears smaller. 
 
 Were there such a rule adopted, it would 
 result in the end of a great saving to mill-men, 
 and also enable saw-makers to furnish such as 
 would give better satisfaction, as they could 
 have a fixed rule to hammer them to. 
 
 There will no doubt be some that cannot 
 see it ; as they may have the idea the faster the 
 motion, the larger will be the pile of lumber, 
 but that does not always follow, for what you 
 gain in speed, you lose in feed. I have never 
 known it to fail. If you get below 10,000 feet 
 per minute, then you cannot carry the feed. To 
 those that cannot maintain the motion with the 
 power they have, it would pay far better to 
 increase the power, then you can make a suc- 
 cess of saw milling. 
 
 There is a limit to saws as to speed, and 
 
19 
 the capacity of cutting lumber. It is natural for 
 men to experiment, and is all right so to do, for 
 that is the way best results are reached. But to 
 those that do not wish to spend time and money 
 in so doing and are willing to accept my 
 experience, they will save the time to themselves 
 I have spent to inform myself on the subject. 
 I have no selfish motives in offering this book, 
 further, than to give such information as will be 
 of the greatest benefit. 
 
 To hammer saws for a higher rate of speed, 
 the saw will require to be open so much that 
 it will dish either way, that should never be 
 done; in such a case where the saw becomes 
 warm in the center from the arbor that will 
 expand the center and cause the saw to lop 
 whichever way the strain is. Where the speed 
 is 10,000 feet the saw can be hammered so it 
 can vary 100 revolutions per minute, and then 
 make good lumber. 
 
 With so many opinions about the speed, it 
 is hard to furnish saws which will be the best 
 adapted for the work. There are a number of 
 things that can be done that will enable most 
 any one to run their saws to the right speed. 
 
20 
 
 If you lack power, reduce the feed until the 
 speed is maintained; many may think by that 
 they cannot cut so much lumber, but the ma- 
 jority of mills will cut more, for what you lose 
 in feed you gain in speed. 
 
 Some mills are lacking in power and mo- 
 tion by not running the engine fast enough, if 
 the engine were run faster as a rule that will 
 accomplish the desired result. If that cannot 
 be done, then there is another remedy which 
 will give better results, that is reducing the 
 number of teeth in the saw, or reduce the cut- 
 ting surface of the teeth. In ordering a saw 
 that will give the best results, go through your 
 yard and measure the cuts on fifty boards that 
 have been cut on different days, then average 
 the cut, and whatever it amounts to, multiply 
 by 1 6, that will give the right number of teeth, 
 and dress the tooth like as cut No. 2 letter C. 
 
21 
 
 SAW GAUGES. 
 
 A few suggestions with other facts, I will 
 now speak of relative to this subject. 
 
 There should be a standard gauge for saws, 
 and on a scale that one could determine their 
 thickness to a nicety. The way gauges num- 
 ber as will be seen, are from four to twenty, 
 this makes it difficult to arrive at the real thick- 
 ness of the saw plates, yet the following 
 numbers will come very closely to it: A 30 
 gauge saw is 5 / m of an inch in thickness, and 
 a 6 gauge is 20 / 100 , and therefore the gain and 
 loss in lumber must be in ratio corresponding 
 with the gauge ; from 20 to 30 gauge, the dif- 
 ference is y 200 of an inch to each gauge, one- 
 half less than the lower numbers propor- 
 tionately. 
 
 Were there a regular gauge scale adopted, 
 then one could tell what fractions of an inch 
 in each gauge for the relative thickness. 
 
 I will give as I advance a table of the actual 
 thickness of saws, represented by number of 
 
22 
 
 gauge, or within ]/ m parts of an inch as the 
 actual average, commencing with No. 4, and 
 thus to No. 20 inclusive, as the latter number 
 is as thin as is in present use at this time ; and 
 this table will be more accurate than the ma- 
 jority of the saws now are, as well as more re- 
 plete and comprehensive. 
 
 TABLE SHOWING THICKNESS OF SAWS AS PER 
 
 NUMBER OF GAUGE, IN HUNDREDTH 
 
 PARTS OF AN INCH: 
 
 No. of Gauge. 4 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 Thickness in 
 numerical 1-100 - 
 part of inch. 
 
 J 
 
 23 
 
 22 
 
 21 
 
 20 
 
 19 
 
 18 
 
 17 
 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 i— ' 
 © 
 o 
 
 i— * 
 o 
 o 
 
 i— ». 
 o 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 © 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 © 
 
 o 
 
 M 
 
 O 
 
 o 
 
 i— >■ 
 o 
 o 
 
 No. of Gauge. 13 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 20 
 
 Thickness in 
 numerical 1-100 Y 
 
 14 
 
 13 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 part of inch. ! 
 
 J 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 i— i 
 o 
 o 
 
 1-^ 
 o 
 o 
 
 O 
 
 © 
 
 © 
 
 © 
 
 h- 1 
 
 © 
 © 
 
 © 
 © 
 
 i— ^ 
 © 
 
 © 
 
 The benefit of the above table will be 
 obvious, and enable any one to calculate the 
 
percentage saved or lost, by using the different 
 gauged saws, and to decide which would be 
 the most successful to carry. 
 
 There is a medium point in feed as well as 
 anything else, where the saw will make better 
 lumber and more of it. If you overtax a saw, 
 the sooner it will give out, at present the aver- 
 age feed carried in mills, does not exceed 4 1 | 2 
 inches, although some carry 6 and io ; and in 
 other cases no more than three inches is carried, 
 by close observation while I have been among 
 the mills, I do not find it to exceed more 
 than 4*^ inches. The average number of teeth 
 in saw is not far from 64, that would allow each 
 tooth to cut 8 | 100 of an inch each revolution. 
 
 The average gauge of saws used is about 
 No. 7, and width of cut is 3 gauges or 2 ^| 100 of an 
 inch, or a little less than 2 5 per cent, of the 
 stock, is converted into saw dust, and some as 
 high as 30 per cent. Whoever uses 4 or 5 
 gauge saws, loses about 33 per cent, of their 
 stock. It is a general thing among small mills, 
 where the power is light, that they use thick 
 saws, the principal reason for this is, the lack 
 of the right knowledge of the saw, and how 
 best to care for them. These instructions are 
 
24 
 
 designed more especially for this class of mill- 
 men, and where there will be the greatest 
 benefit gained, such feed should be carried that 
 will enable the saw to be maintained in its speed, 
 and at the same time, not to tax the saw beyond 
 its strength. Much more feed can be carried if 
 the teeth are in the right shape, and have the 
 proper hook, or the back kept in shape to 
 produce an easy cut. The shape and number 
 of teeth regulate the feed. It is desirable to 
 carry such feed as the saw will stand up to, and 
 make good lumber, by adding more teeth more 
 feed can be carried, 10 per cent, more lumber 
 can be cut with the same power, and at the 
 same time increase the quality of it five per 
 cent, on an average. 
 
 If you are lacking of power, it will be far 
 better to reduce the feed or the cutting surface 
 of the teeth. 
 
25 
 
 NUMBER OF TEETH FOR SAWS. 
 
 I ascertain that by the amount of feed I 
 wish to carry. I allow a tooth to every 1 | 16 of 
 an inch feed regardless the size. I have found 
 the most successful running saws to be those 
 that carry the above feed, although many saws 
 are crowded far beyond that limit, but if there 
 were more teeth added, so that each tooth will 
 remove but \q of an inch of timber, the saw 
 would do better work, and could be crowded to 
 double that in light cuts through soft wood ; but 
 in hard wood I would allow 20 teeth to re- 
 move one inch of timber. 
 
 There are but few saws that cut hard wood, 
 that carry more than three inch feed, the average 
 feed in hard wood is less than two inches. The 
 above number of teeth can be used either 
 sprung set or full swage ; when that is done, it 
 adds double the number of corners to the saw, 
 and such saws can be crowded harder and will 
 make smoother work, but will require more 
 force to remove the same amount of timber. 
 
26 
 
 I have given the number of teeth for 6 and 
 7 gauge saws. If you wish to run thinner 
 saws, it would be preferable to add more teeth, 
 as the thinner the saw, the lighter chip should 
 be taken. I will below give the number of 
 teeth to each gauge of saws, necessary to re- 
 move five inches of timber to each revolution 
 of the saw, to wit : 
 
 6 gauge saw should have 8o teeth, 
 
 7 " " " " &6 " 
 
 8 " " " " 94 " 
 
 9 " " " " no " 
 io " " " " 126 " 
 
 The above is for circular saws. It matters 
 not about the size of the saw, so long as you 
 wish to carry five inch feed to the revolution. 
 
 The above number of teeth will carry five 
 inch feed if the tooth is kept all right without 
 swaging, see page 34, but if you wish to run 
 full swage, the saw will cut some smoother and 
 require more power to drive it. Whenever it 
 takes more power to drive the saw, there is 
 more strain upon it, and is more liable to buckle, 
 and when there is an uneven strain or buckle, 
 in the saw, it will not stand up as well as if it 
 were straight and well balanced. 
 
27 
 
 The number of teeth has much to do with 
 the running of the saw. There is such a thing 
 as having too many teeth, as also not enough, 
 and to get at the right number, it requires 
 study and practice to arrive at the best results, 
 both in feed and thin saws, as to governing the 
 number of teeth a saw should have. 
 
 ♦ *♦►♦ ■ 
 
 THE SHAPE OF TEETH. 
 
 It is of the utmost importance to the suc- 
 cessful running of the saw, the shape of the 
 teeth, which, as a rule but little attention is paid 
 to by majority of filers, every man has his own 
 ideas of putting a saw in order, and consequent- 
 ly all cannot be right. It is well known among 
 first class mechanics, that when a cutting tool is 
 brought in contact with the surface to be re- 
 removed at a certain angle, the chip is removed 
 with less power, and this tool must be ground 
 so that both sides are together at the right 
 
28 
 
 angle to produce the desired results. This rule 
 applies with equal force to wood as well as iron. 
 
 There is a fixed law that cannot well be 
 evaded, and the nearer one keeps to it, the 
 better and more favorable success he will have 
 in any branch of labor. 
 
 Carpenter's plane, bits, chisels, &c., cut lighter 
 when held at the right angle to the work. A 
 saw is a duplicate to all of these, and governed 
 by the same laws, although are imperfectly un- 
 derstood by the majority of mechanics as well as 
 mill men. And the first thing that should be 
 sought by mechanics is to hold and grind the 
 cutting tool in that way that it will cut with the 
 least power. 
 
 The saw is the most sensitive tool in use, 
 and one that should be handled by the best 
 skilled mechanics, and be kept as near perfect 
 as possible. Ninety per cent, of the sawyers 
 and filers are men that have been brought in 
 contact with the saw usage, without ever having 
 the first principle of the same explained to them. 
 Through actual necessity, they have acquired 
 such knowledge as was obtainable by their own 
 experience, which has generally been very 
 limited, and if any one discovers points where 
 
29 
 
 there are benefits gained, they are like most of 
 patentees, conclude that their discoveries they 
 will not reveal to another. 
 
 The following cut illustrates six different saws, 
 with as many different kinds of teeth, all laid out 
 by a rule, which will make the lightest running 
 saw, and one that will bring each tooth in con- 
 tact with the timber all at the same angle. It 
 matters not what the size of the saw is, or the 
 number of teeth in the saw. I have tried this 
 rule thoroughly, and find it to be the only rule 
 that will apply to all sizes of saws. 
 
 Some manufacturers send out their saws 
 with the tooth very near right, but with no in- 
 structions as to what shape should be maintained, 
 in order to keep the warrantee of the saw good. 
 This rule applies to, as you see illustrated on 
 next page, Cut No. i. 
 
 The lines H and R come together at angle 
 of 30 degrees, and the tooth comes in contact 
 with the timber at an angle of 40 degrees. 
 These two angles produce the best cutting 
 point and will make the lightest running saw. 
 To lay out this shape tooth, divide the distance 
 between the center and point of the tooth, and 
 and then strike a circle as is here shown. This 
 
3° 
 
 CUT NO. 1. 
 
 is known as the quarter line, H is the hook 
 line, that comes in contact with the timber at 
 an angle of 40 degrees. R or radious is found 
 
3i 
 
 by setting the dividers to strike the circle same 
 size of the saw. Place one point of divider on 
 point of tooth, and the other upon circle or 
 quarter line forward of the center, and strike 
 line as shown by R and H, that come together 
 at an angle of 30 degrees, producing a thin 
 cutting edge like a chisel or plane, but not 
 blunt like cold chisel edge, that the saw dust 
 will not be cut, but pounded out. Whenever 
 you find by examination of the saw dust, that one 
 end of the grain is broken, you can make up your 
 mind that the teeth are not in the right shape, 
 then if you carry too heavy feed, the timber 
 will be broken and not cut. When the chip is 
 more than y% of an inch in length it will be 
 broken off. That is the reason the saw should 
 have more teeth, and kept in the best possible 
 shape, and by the above suggestions being 
 maintained, the work will be perfected ; any 
 variation from this will produce undesirable 
 results. 
 
 I fully understand the difficulty filers would 
 have in keeping the tooth in the right shape 
 with the appliances they have in the file 
 room at the present time. The depth of 
 the teeth with the proper amount of throat 
 
room for saw-dust, is very essential ; you can 
 have too deep a tooth and too much throat as 
 well as not enough, and one is as bad as the 
 other. 
 
 Most every filer knows that their saw does 
 not do as well when first gummed as it does 
 after the tooth gets down to the best depth. 
 If there is any one point where the saw will 
 do better work, that is the point or depth of 
 tooth to run, extreme measures always spoil 
 the object sought for. My experience has 
 been that half the distance from point to point 
 makes the best shape tooth with the proper 
 throat, unless the teeth are over three inches 
 apart, if so r y 2 inches deep, then strike a line 
 from H to R, that will give a tooth that will 
 not choke or clog under any reasonable 
 amount of feed. When the tooth is too deep, 
 the tooth will spring and tremble more and 
 cause the saw to dodge more readily and stand 
 less feed. If there is any one point wherein 
 the saw runs better, it is best to run it in 
 that way. 
 
 But it is an impossibility for any man to 
 maintain one shape tooth, yet that is what they 
 all try to do with present appliances. 
 
33 
 After twenty years' careful study and prac- 
 tice I have been successful in perfecting a ma- 
 chine that maintains the shape of the tooth, 
 and keeps the same to the desired depth with 
 more accuracy than is possible to do with any 
 other machine in use, and enables filers to 
 overcome such difficulties as they have hereto- 
 fore been unable to do. 
 
 IN PITTING THE POINT OP 
 THE TOOTH. 
 
 There are various opinions with regard to 
 the most economical way to accomplish this, 
 some claiming one way, some another. I will 
 here endeavor to give the best points that are 
 gained. 
 
 The annexed cut shows the different ways 
 in filing them; A is a full swaged *•:■ 
 dressed square and of proper shape and show- 
 ing the cut in each tooth, by the cross lines at 
 the bottom extending clear across, and this 
 
CUT NO. 2. 
 
 saw has double the outside corners than is 
 shown by the others, and cuts across J /$ more 
 timber than B, but does not cut so far ahead 
 on the outside of the cut ; with full swedging, 
 if you have plenty of power, such a tooth is 
 all right. 
 
 Now most men claim that such saws run 
 lighter, but that is a mistake, it takes power to 
 drive a tooth through the timber, the wider the 
 surface, the more power it takes, and the greater 
 is the strain on the saw. Many claim that if a 
 saw is spread full, it cannot dodge nor the set 
 get out, the latter is true, but the former is not, 
 for the saw is more liable to dodge when crow- 
 
35 
 
 ded, and the more power it takes, the greater is 
 the strain and more liable to buckle, and when- 
 ever it buckles, it will not run straight. No saw 
 will vary from a straight line without it first be- 
 comes sprung or buckled, from too much pres- 
 sure upon it or getting strained and bent. Bad 
 filing will produce a buckle or lead as some term 
 it. In this style of dressing, both outside 
 corners should be kept full and sharp, with the 
 outside of the point dressed at an angle of 1 5 
 degrees, such a tooth will run 6 hours without 
 losing enough of the corner to become round 
 on the outside. The objection to this tooth, is, 
 i st ; It will take about 2 5 per cent, more power 
 to drive it than a sprung set tooth ; 2d : It will 
 cost more to keep such saws in order if the 
 swaging is done by hand. Disston & Sons 
 say: "By getting over this extreme spread, 
 we could afford to make our saws 20 per cent, 
 harder in temper, which would be of great 
 benefit to them, and at all times run with much 
 less set." 
 
 If saws were 20 per cent, harder, there 
 would be 5o percent, less saw hammering done. 
 Then when the saw was rightly hammered, it 
 would stay so much longer. 
 
36 
 
 The advantages and disadvantages of the 
 sprung set tooth as shown by letter B: At the 
 present time many are using the swage tooth, 
 and have discarded the sprung set for lack of 
 knowledge how to file them properly. The ad- 
 vantage to be gained by sprung set: they will 
 run 2 5 per cent, lighter when fitted right, as in 
 reference to B, and cross lines shown at 
 the bottom, you will see that the points of 
 the teeth do not cut so much timber by one- 
 third, and that leaves the tooth to cut double 
 of the distance ahead on one side, and the 
 same as swage tooth on the other. The chip 
 will remove easier by cutting half way across 
 the cut. By examining the cut you will see 
 there is less cutting surface to this tooth than 
 that of A, and a quarter more than C. The 
 tooth is slightly bevel on the under side, and 
 flat on top, the side corner should be sprung 
 close to the point as shown in the cut, sec- 
 ond, saws will last twice as long by spring 
 setting, and cost less in files and emery 
 wheels to keep them in order. 
 
 Men have discarded sprung set teeth for 
 two reasons ; first, for lack of teeth. If there 
 was on an average one-fourth more teeth 
 
37 
 added to sprung set saws than there now is 
 used, there would be better running saws. 
 
 By reducing the thickness of the plate two 
 or three gauges, that would make a saving of 
 10 per cent, in power and relieving that much 
 strain upon the saw, at the same time saves 
 three per cent, of the stock. 
 
 The disadvantage of the sprung set teeth 
 claimed by some, is that the teeth become 
 thinner on the point ; that is no detriment to 
 it as long as the tooth cuts to the center of the 
 cut as shown by C. 
 
 I do not find that difficulty with them, 
 when the tooth is set right. The sets in gen- 
 eral use it is difficult to spring the tooth close to 
 the point, but with one constructed properly, 
 and the teeth once set, it is not half as much 
 work to keep them set as it is to upset them. 
 If you are lacking power, it would be best to 
 use a thinner saw, and fit the teeth like C. This 
 tooth will take nearly 40 per cent, less power 
 if fitted this shape, and make 1 5 per cent, better 
 lumber on an average. By examining the cut 
 you will see that each tooth has cut only half 
 the timber that A does across the cut, but i/ 3 less 
 than B. At the same time each tooth cuts the 
 
38 
 
 same distance into the timber, and each tooth 
 has 2 5 per cent, wider shoulder to strike 
 against, which will prevent the tooth dodging 
 or sliding off the shoulder (as is liable to do, 
 when half swaging and sprung set is used as 
 shown by D.) If this tooth is sprung set, with 
 the inside corners filed off to the center of the 
 cut, it will leave a narrower point to be driven 
 through the timber with a heavier body of steel 
 back of it for a support, not like A the widest 
 on the point with y^ less steel back to support 
 the cutting point. I have used this shape teeth 
 and seen others use them with the best results; 
 most every one dress this shape tooth as Diss- 
 ton directs. 
 
 I do not follow his instructions fully. I do 
 not use the swage but rather use the set, and 
 one that will spring the teeth as shown in the 
 cut. I have endeavored to show the outside 
 corners as near perfect as possible to represent 
 on paper, and what is to be gained by swage or 
 upset is to keep the outside corner sharp, every 
 one side-dresses the teeth after they have 
 swaged or upset the tooth, that leaves the cor- 
 ners sharp and should also be done with sprung 
 set teeth, and by keeping the tooth sprung 
 
39 
 close to the point, it will not wear off enough to 
 cause the tooth to be full below the edge, as it 
 will get to be when it is not side-dressed. The 
 object of having the tooth beveled on the bottom, 
 is that it may present a full sharp corner on the 
 outside, and give a cutting edge that will wear 
 longer than a square bottom, and such an edge 
 will work better in cross grained timber than 
 one that is square, the bevel should be slight 
 but what most men would call square. 
 
 When the saw is filed from both sides that 
 is sufficient for the bevel, but it is almost an im- 
 posibility to make both sides alike with a file, 
 and if they are not alike the saw will not run 
 as well. 
 
 The only way that the saw can be dressed 
 successfully is by a machine that will work 
 accurate, heretofore there has been a lack of 
 skill and not the proper kind of machines to do 
 the work. 
 
 With my saw-sharpener I can dress a bevel 
 or square tooth with that accuracy that has never 
 been obtained by hand, or with any other- 
 machine. It will make any shape tooth desired, 
 and keep the saw always in the best possible 
 shape. 
 
4o 
 
 THIN SAWS AND WHAT IS 
 THEREBY GAINED. 
 
 This is a subject of interest to all parties 
 engaged in the manufacture of lumber. 
 
 Timber is becoming too scarce and ex- 
 pensive to waste 2 5 per cent, of it in saw dust. 
 And what can be saved from this loss is clear 
 gain, which is fully understood by nearly all, 
 and many have thus tried to run thin saws but 
 have failed for the lack of knowing how to run 
 them and how they should be made. There 
 are three principal causes why they are not 
 running 3 or 4 gauge thinner saws than those 
 they are at present. 
 
 Thin saws can be run when handled as they 
 should be. The first cause wherein most have 
 failed is not having the proper number of teeth. 
 
 The next point is the lack of skill to fit the 
 teeth. It is not all in the filing but much de- 
 pends in the hammering of the saw; six or seven 
 years ago 8 gauge saws were as scarce as 10 
 gauge now, and did not have any better success 
 with them then than is obtained with the 10 
 now. 
 
4i 
 
 I have seen 10 gauge 72 inch saws run in 
 hard wood and carry as much feed as was 
 carried 10 years ago in soft timber by 8 gauge 
 and with good results. Men are improving the 
 saw all the time, and in less than five years 
 there will be as many 10 gauge saws in use as 
 there are 8 at the present time. 
 
 It is a more particular job to file a thin saw 
 than a thick one, but with the use of my saw- 
 sharpener all such difficulty is obviated. With 
 the number of teeth in table and in the right 
 shape, with point of tooth fitted up like C and 
 hammered open right, there will be no trouble 
 in running them successfully and do as well as 
 the 8 gauge saw can do. It requires skill and 
 knowledge in the care of them, both in hammer- 
 ing and filing. 
 
 With my sharpener and the instructions for 
 hammering that I will give, will enable mill- 
 men to have better success with their saws 
 than they now realize or have had in the past. 
 
4-2 
 
 INSERTED TEETH. 
 
 It is claimed by some that inserted tooth 
 saws will do better than solid. 
 
 My experience has not demonstrated that 
 fact. I have never found them to make as 
 good or as much lumber ; they are more ex- 
 pensive than the solid. It costs more for teeth 
 inserted than for the same amount of steel in 
 the solid saw, although some men get along 
 better with them than with the solid, as they 
 do not have so much work to do, and there 
 are less teeth to be filed and kept in order, 
 and have no gumming to do, thus making 
 them a favorite among filers. The saw does 
 not get out of balance so readily as a solid 
 one will under the care of same men, some 
 will work the spaces uneven by filing, and in 
 the solid ones the spaces become so uneven 
 that one side of the saw has from 5 to 10 
 per cent, more labor to perform than the other. 
 Such saws will never run right and will require 
 hammering often. In making this statement 
 it is not derogatory to solid teeth but against 
 
43 
 
 those that file them, whereas with the use of 
 my machine the teeth are put in the right con- 
 dition and can always be kept so. The less 
 pieces to a saw the better, and if the filers 
 understand their business, they can make the 
 solid saw do more work and do it better than 
 the inserted tooth saw, so much so that the 
 gain will pay for a new saw every six months. 
 There is nothing gained by maintaining the 
 size of the saw as claimed for inserted teeth. 
 
 I will here refer to. what Messrs. Emerson, 
 Smith & Co. of Beaver Falls, Pa., say, in their 
 hand-book on saws, page 7J, in regard to solid 
 teeth, viz : "We do not pretend that any inser- 
 ted tooth saw for a single dash, is the superior 
 of the solid tooth saw. Because when the teeth 
 of the solid tooth saw are full length with good 
 throat-room for the dust, and the tooth in perfect 
 . order with power to drive it, no inserted tooth 
 saw can be made that will cut more lumber in 
 as short a time." If solid saws will do better 
 by having the teeth in proper shape, then it 
 will pay to keep them so, and you will have 
 the most successful running saw. 
 
 My experience has been the same as that of 
 Emerson, Smith & Co. I know that a solid 
 
44 
 saw will do better work when kept in order 
 than an inserted tooth saw. 
 
 Filers are prone to favor inserted tooth saws, 
 on account of the less number of teeth to file, 
 and by favoring the saw regardless of how 
 much is lost in this way by the mill-men, and so 
 long as they do not find the difference or that 
 the mill cuts one or two thousand feet per day 
 less, that much is not missed, or they may 
 make more lumber with a new inserted tooth, 
 and thus is led to believe he has made great 
 improvement by the use of the inserted tooth 
 saw. It is well that at the present time mill- 
 men are becoming awake to the necessity and 
 benefit of using the solid saw. 
 
 The points I claim is to use a saw that will 
 do the best work. If the solid saw has the 
 right number of teeth and in the right shape, 
 no inserted tooth saw ever made can make the 
 quality or quantity of lumber that the solid 
 saw will when kept in perfect order. 
 
4 5 
 
 PATENT GROUND OR TAPER SAWS 
 WITH STRAIGHT GAUGE. 
 
 Many claim a great benefit in the use of 
 this saw, when that idea was instituted, mill- 
 men began to increase the motion or speed of 
 the saw ; that caused it to lop over, then to 
 overcome that, the manufacturers conceived the 
 idea of the taper saw in order to make it stiffer, 
 and soon the mill-men wished to run the saw 
 faster. This necessitated another change, and 
 the manufacturers began hammering the saw 
 open in the center, this they found to be an 
 improvement, and continued grinding the saw 
 tapering and hammering it until the saw be- 
 came open in the center. Could any one give 
 me a reasonable excuse for the extra steel in 
 the center, when the first thing they do before 
 it will run, is to hammer all the stiffness out of 
 them ? Just the reverse of what the steel is 
 left for ; such saws require more set to clear 
 the center and prevent heating. The wider the 
 set of the saw the more strain on the rim, and 
 the wider the cut the less feed can be carried. 
 
4 6 
 
 The wider the cut the more liable the saw is to 
 buckle. As soon as you give the saw room to 
 spring, the less feed can be carried. 
 
 The saw should have a support on its sides „ 
 but you must have clearance enough to prevent 
 the saw from heating. All the above difficul- 
 ties will occur by having the center too thick. 
 Some are getting back to straight saws and find 
 them to do better. 
 
 I would rather have a saw two gauges 
 thinner in the center than thicker. Such a 
 saw will run very nice with fine teeth. If the 
 rim is the heaviest it will straighten up and run 
 steady more like the rim of a fly-wheel. These 
 saws will not feel the uneven spots caused by 
 the hammer as much as a thick center. Then 
 you can carry lighter set on such saws and 
 give more of a support to them, and prevent 
 their buckling, when the saw is straight the 
 center will not heat so much nor break, where, 
 under the same circumstances, a thicker one 
 would ; the thicker the plate the greater the 
 damage. If you bend a thick saw it is liable 
 to break in remedial of so thick a body, 
 whereas if the plate was 3 / m of an inch thin- 
 ner it would not break. 
 
47 
 
 The thick edge with less set, have less 
 timber to remove and more steel to do it 
 in proportion. Such saws will not require so 
 much hammering to make them stand up as the 
 heft of the rim is a great help to it. The 
 foregoing may be new to a great many, but 
 such a saw has been successfully run in some 
 places and is no theory of mine, but an actual 
 experiment. I have seen such a saw, and that 
 has been in use for the last four years. 
 
 Some will no doubt ask, why has not this 
 saw been brought into use before this ? I will 
 say there is a patent on it, and the case has 
 been in Court about three years and that is the 
 reason there has been nothing more done. It 
 takes some time to get men to adopt any thing 
 that is new, especially when the reverse of 
 things in general use, these saws will yield 
 more readily under the same treatment, and 
 when men become educated in using the thin 
 saw, there will be more of them used year after 
 year. If mill-men will adopt straight gauge 
 saws, they will have less trouble with them than 
 with others. That would be the saw I should 
 use under all circumstances and not thicker than 
 8 gauge ; the points in favor of such a saw are, 
 
4 8 
 
 they require less hammering, they will run with 
 less set, are less liable to get out of order, and 
 they will yield and resume their place, whereas 
 a thick one will not, but the surface on the 
 plate will stretch more and will not contract 
 again, and in such case the hammer will have 
 to be used. 
 
 • <♦> * 
 
 WHOSE MAKE ARE THE BEST SAWS, 
 
 I am often asked, who makes the best saws ? 
 I do not have any preference, they all make 
 good ones and sometimes quite fail in making 
 a perfect saw, and whoever gets a saw that does 
 not work right, it is generally found to be the 
 fault of the man that has the care of it. He 
 does not know the remedy when the saw does 
 not work right, and therefore good work is not 
 the result, then the blame is laid upon the 
 maker. It is a patent fact, saws do not work all 
 alike, and there are so few men that become 
 master of the saw and consequently hard to be 
 found. 
 
 There is no saw but what can be made to 
 
49 
 run good, yet there are many that will require 
 much labor to get them in shape to do good 
 work, and to make such saws work well, it re- 
 quires a man well posted and familiar with them, 
 and to get them in shape to give satisfaction. I 
 do not claim to make every saw work equally 
 as well, but with the following instructions if 
 carried out, will enable most of the filers to be- 
 come masters of the saw, so much so that there 
 will not be one saw in ten condemned. 
 
 Many times saws get buckled by improper 
 dress. Yet not enough to make the work very 
 bad, but so much so that the saw cannot be 
 trusted, and will not stand very heavy feed, but 
 when filed nicely will make fair lumber on one 
 or two inch less feed than other saws that are 
 in the mill. But the swagers say the saw is 
 worthless and cannot be made to run, and claim 
 the maker is in the fault. Many times the saw 
 will run all right half day or a week or month, 
 but never if the saw is not right, as it will show 
 its condition the first cut, but if it runs one day 
 well and another day it may fail, the cause is 
 from something that has happened to it, and 
 the swager might think there was nothing un- 
 usual happened to the saw. 
 
5o 
 
 I find instances of the kind occurring with 
 all brands of saws, and if your saw does not 
 work satisfactorily, after examining the descrip- 
 tion here given you may be able to fit the saw 
 so that you can make a success with it. 
 
 CARRIAGE AND TRACK. 
 
 I do not intend to say much about the mill 
 or its machinery, but there are some things so 
 closely connected with the running of the saw 
 and that have more or less control over the 
 same, I deem it essential to mention the most 
 particular parts, such as the carriage and track. 
 It is understood by most all that the carriage 
 should be firm, and the bearings of the axels 
 well fitted, so that there will be no vibration to 
 the carriage, as otherwise it would make the 
 saw to run bad and more liable to heat. 
 
 The track should be straight and of the right 
 width, both of the wheels flanged and run on flat 
 rails, as they are doing now in some mills, but 
 
5i 
 
 the old fashioned track in use in most of the 
 mills, is, when straight and level, found to work 
 very well, if the journals are nicely fitted and 
 the collars kept set up closely to prevent 
 the carriage from swaging or crowding up to 
 the saw. Some times the track will appear 
 level, but when you get a large log on the car- 
 riage and run over the track, it will sag or 
 spring, and when the saw is in the cut, it has 
 the tendancy to crowd the saw in the center 
 and cause the mandrel and saw to heat. The 
 heating of the saw will cause it to dish as it be- 
 comes warm. If the track is crooked side-ways, 
 it will throw the log to and from the saw, thus 
 making uneven lumber. The track may be all 
 right and still the carriage will sway to and from 
 the saw. This may be caused by the wheels 
 not being true. 
 
 One cannot be too particular in fitting the 
 wheels, they should be shrunk on the axel-trees 
 and turned up to a perfect gauge. Many will 
 turn up the wheel and then key it on axel, 
 such wheels are not on true, and will cause the 
 carriage to move to and from the saw. I have 
 seen wheels of carriages that would vary or 
 run out j£ of an inch every revolution. 
 
52 
 
 There are but few nicely fitted carriages, 
 the truer and stiffer the carriages the better the 
 lumber will be. If you have a poor carriage 
 and track, the best saw that ever was would be 
 spoiled in a short time. 
 
 Many times filers and sawyers will keep 
 fooling with a saw, leading it first one way then 
 another, trying to make the saw run straight ; 
 when if they understood how to test it, it would 
 not take 10 minutes in so doing, and to ascer- 
 tain whether the trouble was in the saw or the 
 carriage or track. 
 
 It is very important the filer should be able 
 to do that much if he could not repair it, after 
 this fact has been learned the-trouble is half over. 
 
 It is an easy matter to examine the saw 
 with the right kind of tools to do it with ; the 
 track should be solid, level and straight, and the 
 carriage firm and run free. 
 
53 
 THE ARBOR. 
 
 The arbor is another appendage to the mill 
 and united with the saw, so much that whatever 
 effects one will effect the other. 
 
 Many mill-men are troubled with hot arbors 
 which cause a great deal of delay and loss to the 
 mill by heating the saw. This is from several 
 causes, sometimes the arbor heats from the saw, 
 crowding too heavy against the collars and some 
 times the arbor is cut from the cap, being set 
 too close ; more times the boxes are not filled 
 with the right kind of metal. 
 
 A great many arbors are of iron and thus it 
 is a very hard matter to make an iron arbor to 
 run cool. Not one iron arbor is round and 
 smooth, nor one iron bar in a hundred that can 
 be made so, as all iron has hard and soft 
 streaks, some more and some less. Iron bars 
 cannot be turned true, and if they were finished 
 true at first they would not remain so long, for 
 where the soft streaks are that will give way 
 before the hard portion does, and cause the 
 bearings to become out of round and the arbor 
 
5 4 
 
 to run unsteadily, thus causing the saw to run 
 bad. No arbor should be made of iron, steel 
 is much the best. If your arbor is of iron 
 get steel boxes and fit them closely, and tem- 
 per them to a good hard temper, the greater 
 the contrast between the two metals the less 
 friction ; some have steel arbors and they can- 
 not help them from heating. By changing the 
 metal in the bearing that may make a differ- 
 ence; by examining the arbor and getting at the 
 hardness of the metal you could make up your 
 mind whether it were softer or harder metal in 
 the boxes that was needed. Many times the 
 arbor is out of line which causes it to heat. 
 Sometimes the back end of the arbor is forced 
 out of level by the strain of the belt. 
 This can be tested by placing a weight up- 
 on the tightener until it sags the same as 
 when running; then apply the level to the 
 arbor and see if it is level when under 
 the heaviest strain. All arbors should be 
 leveled with the tightener and with as much 
 strain as subjected to at any time, that will 
 show whether the floor timbers are solid. If 
 they spring they should be stiffened. Some 
 times the front end of the arbor will lift when 
 
55 
 
 in a heavy cut, try this by getting a pry upon 
 the track and under the end of the arbor, try 
 it to see if you throw the arbor out of level. 
 You can judge something the amount of strain 
 to apply upon the lever, that will depend upon 
 the distance from the saw to the center of the 
 pully. It is generally two-thirds the length of 
 the arbor from saw to center of the pully, that 
 will leave one- third the power that it takes to 
 drive the saw to lift the front end of the arbor, 
 and the strain down on the back end to pull it 
 down. Many men will level up the saw arbor 
 when it is laying light in its bearings, not even 
 the heft of the belt upon it and think the 
 arboi is level, but when the saw is in the 
 cut and laboring heavily, the arbor may be out 
 of place y^ of an inch and this will cause the 
 saw to run out. . 
 
 When the floor springs there is no saw that 
 will run straight, when the saw is running light, 
 the arbor is nearly level, and when it strikes 
 into the cut the front end will begin to lift, and 
 then the saw will begin to run out, and the more 
 of a cut the more it will get out of level, so 
 much so the Sawyer thinks the saw is wrong, 
 then he shifts the gear, and when the saw is in 
 
56 
 
 a light cut and the guide holding the saw in it, 
 will run in on such cuts, and if you ease off in 
 the feed the saw will straighten up and get back 
 into the log. And thus the trouble is laid to the 
 saw, when in reality the trouble is in the foun- 
 dation of the Mill. 
 
 I have found this difficulty to exist in many 
 of the mills, and the filers dressing the saw to 
 evercome the spring of the floor. If such men 
 understood the saw they could tell by examining 
 whether the trouble was to be imputed to the 
 saw or some other part of the mill, I have 
 given such points as are but seldom understood 
 by Millrlghts in regard to the leveling of the 
 arbor, "which should be adhered to strictly," in 
 order to produce good lumber. The slightest 
 difference in turning up the collars of the arbor, 
 or in the finish of the saw near the hole, will 
 cause a very perceptible difference in the 
 hanging and of its true running. 
 
 In such cases many use packing between the 
 collar and saw to true it up ; the best way is to 
 examine the saw first and if found to be true, 
 then remove the lug pins and try the collars, 
 should they be found full in spots they should 
 be faced off, and to do that great care should be 
 
57 
 taken in order to accomplish a nice Job, this can 
 be done without removing the arbor from the 
 bearings. The caps should be tightened so 
 that there would be no chance for the arbor to lift 
 up, the next thing is to place a smooth hard point 
 against the center of the arbor and press against 
 it to prevent the arbor from vibrating, or moving 
 endways by the running off the belt : this should 
 be well oiled to prevent it wearing, this point can 
 be placed against either end, whichever may be 
 the most convenient. It is less in the way on 
 the back end. 
 
 The next thing is to take some heavy piece 
 of iron, one that has a sharp corner and will 
 lay close to the face of the collar, to form a rest 
 for the tool while trimming, the closer the rest 
 the easier it is to hold the scraper while turning 
 off the face. The back or solid collar should be 
 be hollowed out to within 5/g of an inch of the 
 outside, this edge can be scraped off where it 
 is too full. Take an old file and grind the end 
 nearly square and sharp on the edge, this will 
 remove the full points. Many claim that the 
 outside collar that comes in contact with the 
 saw should be straight on its side ; such a collar 
 is more beneficial when the taper ground saw 
 
58 
 
 is used. The saw-makers .recommend such 
 collars, and to use packing to make the saws 
 stand up straight. I prefer saws that will hang 
 right in the collars without any packing. It 
 does not take any longer to hang a saw right 
 with the hammer, than it does with paper to 
 true it up, when it is done with the hammer it 
 it is right, but when it is trued up with paper it 
 produces an unnatural strain upon the saw, and 
 causes the saw to buckle with less strain upon 
 it. Always do a thing the right way and it 
 will be useful the longer. 
 
 I prefer both collars turned the same way 
 with a face upon them 5/§ of an inch wide, they 
 will hold a saw better than the straight full 
 faced collar. After you have scraped off the 
 back collar until it is perfectly true, the collar 
 can be fastened up in the bearings better than 
 it can be done in a lathe, and is far better to do 
 it while the arbor is in its place. Many times 
 collars are faced off in the lathe, and in so do- 
 ing the collars are not perfect. Then, many 
 times the work is done by persons that are not 
 competent. It is a very nice piece of work to 
 fit the collars as they should be, after you have 
 taken all the end play out, the lug pins must 
 
5 9 
 
 be removed, set the rest up the right heigth, 
 or so that the cutting edge of the tool will 
 come on a line with the center of the arbor, 
 the tool used should have a sharp cutting edge, 
 yet not too sharp, the best thing to use is a 
 flat file, grind it smooth on one side, and square 
 across the end or very nearly so, until you 
 have a straight square edge ; hold firmly upon 
 the rest, and not allow it to tremble, and touch 
 the face of the collar lightly until all the full 
 spots have been removed off. 
 
 While doing this the arbor should be run 
 very slow, and the face of the collar be per- 
 fectly flat or straight on the face 5/ s of an inch 
 from the outside, the inside of the collar should 
 be chambered out so that it will not rest upon 
 the saw, but not too much. 1 | 10 of an inch will 
 be sufficient, if too deep the lugpins will not 
 stand so well, and all that is removed weakens 
 the collar and will get out of place quicker. 
 When the back collar is fitted up true, the face 
 or front collar should be tested with the straight 
 edge, and if any imperfections are discernable 
 they must be scraped off. Try the saw with a 
 straight edge and if found imperfect, it should be 
 straightened. See instructions for straightening. 
 
6o 
 
 After the saw is straight, place it upon the 
 arbor and tighten up the collars lightly before 
 the lug-pins are put in, do not set the nut too 
 tight, leave it loose enough to admit of turning 
 the saw between the collars, the outside collar 
 should not turn; turn the saw one revolution 
 and if any imperfection in the saw or collars it 
 will show it. If it is in the saw, the collars will 
 be marked all the way around, and the saw will 
 show where it is worn, the lump or bulge on the 
 same can be taken out with the hammer, but if 
 the mark should be on .the saw all the way 
 around, then the full spot is in the collars, and 
 can be scraped with the tool you have used, 
 until you have a perfect fit and cannot perceive 
 in the wear any difference either in saw or arbor, 
 and they show the same surface, then replace 
 the pins but do not drive them with a hammer, 
 they should be so nicely fitted that they can be 
 removed with the fingers, but at the same 
 t'me there should be no shake or bur upon the 
 pin or by side of the hole. 
 
 When there is a bur upon the pin or collar 
 it causes the saw to run bad, and any uneaven 
 press upon the saw will cause it to buckle, after 
 the pins are in place, hang the saw and screw 
 
6i 
 
 up the nut firmly, then turn the saw slowly 
 holding a piece of chalk, on the side to see if it 
 runs true, if it should not, the chalk will show 
 the full spots and can be straightened. See 
 page 98 Should the saw run perfectly true it is 
 all right. Untrue collars will cause the saw to 
 rattle and waver in the cut. 
 
 The instructions I have given will enable 
 any Mechanic to fit the saw and collars more 
 perfect than ^ of those now in use. Do not 
 attempt to do this work unless you fully under- 
 stand the instruction here given, and that you are 
 Mechanic enough to do the work as it should 
 be. You had better spend a whole day in doing 
 the work right, than to allow it to go half done. 
 
 After you get the saw and carriage to run 
 true, then it will be best to try the range of the 
 arbor, the best way is to slack the guides, letting 
 the saw remain free, then move the carriage up 
 until the head block is on a line with the front 
 edge of the saw, then take a file the shank 
 dressed to a point and lay it upon the head- 
 block, and place the point of the shank lightly 
 against the saw, then shove the carriage back 
 until the point is opposite with the back edge, 
 the point should clear the saw y M of an inch, 
 
62 
 
 that is as much range as is necessary or good 
 for a saw. 
 
 After trying the saw one way, turn the same 
 y^ of the way around and see if there are any 
 imperfections in the saw, if so it will show them. 
 
 It would be better to try the saw from the 
 four quarters, then there would not be any 
 mistake and will leave the arbor in perfect 
 shape. 
 
 FILE ROOM, AND IMPLEMENTS NE- 
 CESSARY TO MAKE THE BEST 
 RUNNING SAWS. 
 
 The file room as a general thing is the most 
 neglected part of the mill, and many have no 
 room at all, and hang the saw upon anything 
 where they can have a chance to use the file, 
 as some have a temporary bench or post, no 
 one can file a saw true with such appliances, 
 then when the saw is brought into use wonder 
 why it does not run better. Three-fourths of 
 the filers will say that no saw can be made to 
 stand 8 or 10 inches of feed. If the saw is 
 filed right and is straight and true it can do 
 double the work that it could if it were not so. 
 
63 
 
 If mill-men can make a gain of 10 per 
 cent, above what they are now doing, it will be 
 sufficient to pay all expenses. 
 
 In filing saws it is necessary to have a good 
 light room to work in, with plenty of room to 
 get around, and should be furnisned'with the 
 best machinery and the most improved tools to 
 work with. 
 
 I find, where mills are furnished with such 
 they can make the best lumber in quality, and 
 the most in quantity. I do not ask men how much 
 lumber they cut, I can tell that by what their 
 yards will show, and whether there are any de- 
 fects in the saw, and if so, wherein the man that 
 has the care of them is in the fault. Many times 
 the saw makes bad lumber for want of suitable 
 tools to work with, when virtually it is not so 
 much the fault of the filer. Every file room 
 should have the best emery wheel rig and a 
 good solid bench, with a full out-fit of hammers 
 and straight edges with anvil to use when 
 needed. I have for a long time seen the im- 
 perative need of these tools, but they would be 
 of no need to those who did not know their 
 use or how to use them. And with instruc- 
 tions given here, any man that cannot learn to 
 
6 4 
 
 use them ought not to have any business in 
 the mills, they take the place of good men at 
 an expense of #5 to $10 per day, and are the 
 very poorest acquisition to the file room. 
 
 I have endeavored to get up the most im- 
 proved tools for file rooms that have ever been 
 used. My automatic saw-sharpener is the best 
 and most complete machine that has ever 
 been placed in a mill, and if handled as is de- 
 signed they' should be, they will do the great- 
 est variety of work, and the most perfect of any 
 machine now in use. It fits the saw ready to 
 be placed upon the arbor without the file, and 
 will have a better edge than can be put on with 
 a file ; the teeth will be all of one shape, and 
 the saw perfectly round, and the teeth are al- 
 ways gummed ready for use and in perfect 
 balance. The above I claim to be points ahead 
 of any other method used in the past by any 
 one. 
 
 I have a bench for swaging, setting or fil- 
 ing the saw upon, it is differently construct- 
 ed from anything that has heretofore been 
 used, and the design is to combine such tools 
 as are needed to keep the saw in perfect 
 shape or as near as they can be with 
 
65 
 
 THE MOST COMPLETE SAW BENCH 
 
 EVER USED, SHOWN BY THE 
 
 FOLLOWING CUTS. 
 
 CUT NO. 3. 
 
66 
 
 Cut No. 3 is a front view of this bench with the 
 saw arbor S A turned up as it stands when the 
 saw is horizontal and shows the collars S C for 
 clamping the saw, these collars are independent 
 from the arbor and so arranged that the saw 
 can be clamped between them and firmly 
 screwed up, will admit of removing the saw and 
 collars from mandrel, and the saw can be turned 
 around without slacking them. This enables 
 one to test the saw and hammer it on either side 
 with the collars on. The arbor S. A. is hinged 
 to a slide which is adjustable, W W W is three 
 ways for the purpose of adjusting the several 
 attachments to, U H is an upset slide so con- 
 structed the upset can be held at any angle to 
 suit the pitch of the tooth, U H 2 is the upset- 
 holder provided with a round boring with a 
 slot on each side, the shank of the upset is 
 furnished with a lug, this can be changed half 
 way around and hold the upset in such a way 
 that either side will come in contact with the 
 point of the tooth alike, this will prevent the 
 changing of point of tooth, and hold the upset 
 alike on every tooth as shown by saw tooth here 
 represented. V is a vice for clamping the saw 
 while s wedging which is adjustable to the size 
 
6 7 
 
 CUT NO. 4. 
 
6S 
 
 of any saw, this slides upon one of the ways. 
 S J is a side jointer for the purpose of gauging 
 the teeth to a defined width which is not done 
 on an average, this is shown in the position as 
 used on the saw. R R are rests for holding 
 the saw level while hammering. Cut No 4 
 is a top view showing the arbor S A turned 
 down with the saw hung upon it. V is a top 
 view of the vice, showing the manner of clam- 
 ping the saw, in same view is a top view of side 
 jointer and gauge S J, F H are the file-holders 
 showing the position of the files F F, D D are 
 set crews to keep the files the desired distance 
 apart to regulate the set. G G represent set 
 screws -to guide or hold the saw steady while 
 turning, by slacking the thumb nut this will 
 allow the file holders to be turned back, out of 
 the way, and when using are applied to the saw 
 as shown, by revolving the saw slowly between 
 the files will dress the sides of the teeth more 
 accurate than any other gauge or jointer. . U 
 H is a top view of upset stand. U H 2 is the 
 holder showing the slots for the purpose of 
 guiding the upset, and when it is brought in 
 contact with the teeth it is held plumb over the 
 tooth, and perfectly square with it. A is the anvil, 
 
6 9 
 
 B B is bed for arbor to slide upon. C is a 
 crank that turns screw S, for the purpose of 
 moving slide carrying the arbor for to bring the 
 saw in the right position upon anvil, Cut No. 5 
 is a side view, this shows the saw in both posi- 
 tions, perpendicular and horizontal, it also shows 
 the upset holder in line with the saw, and also 
 resting upon anvil A and rests R R. This is 
 more clearly shown in this way represented, and 
 the benefits of the bench by the instructions 
 given. 
 
 I do not think it will be very troublesome 
 for a new beginner to operate successfully upon. 
 
 The anvil sets in a socket on the bed-plate 
 and can be removed when not in use to prevent 
 the face from getting marred or defaced, as the 
 smoother and nicer it is kept the better the saw 
 will look and be when done. 
 
 In regard to the frame or wood-work for 
 this bench by examining the above cut it will 
 be seen, any Carpenter can frame it together, 
 and as it will be about as cheap to make the 
 frame in the mill, I will furnish the iron work, 
 ready to be placed upon it, and this will allow 
 the making of frame suitable size for the saws 
 used; the anvil rests upon a block 10x14; the 
 
70 
 
 CUT NO. 5, 
 rest of the frame is 4x4, and makes a good 
 strong bench, and that will enable any one to 
 accomplish more work on this than any other 
 
7i 
 
 bench in use, than he can with some one to help 
 him on the ordinary anvil and bench. 
 
 HAMMERING OF SAWS, 
 
 In hammering, I shall introduce a new mode 
 of operating than that of the usual way. Nearly 
 all hammer-work from the center in straight 
 line to the rim, the result of such a process is 
 attended with more labor, as the slightest 
 difference in the blows upon the saw will pro- 
 duce an open and tight line running from center 
 to the edge, the effect upon the saw wili be a 
 rattling or trembling motion which causes the 
 saw to run unsteady. 
 
 If there is an open line running from center 
 to edge, this line runs across the line of motion 
 of the saw and the right way to cause the saw 
 to buckle, as all buckles run from center to the 
 edge. If the saw is 'hammered in circular 
 lines around the plate, there will not be any 
 ridges or buckles formed in the saw, but if there 
 should be any one line expanded more tftan 
 
72 
 
 another, it will not effect the running of the saw 
 as it would if it run from center to rim. 
 
 The principal feature of this bench will be 
 readily understood by observing that the saw 
 is held by its center, and held level by the 
 adjustable rest R, causing the saw to rest level 
 upon the anvil; the saw can be revolved around 
 and the blows applied more uniform in rate, and 
 the position of the body remains unchanged, 
 far more so, than when working from center to 
 rim, the body changes position with every blow 
 and this will cause the blows to vary both in 
 weight and distance apart. 
 
 The most difficult for new beginners, to ap- 
 ply the blows at equal distances apart with uni- 
 form weight ; the operator should take such a 
 position that the blows would all be delivered 
 in a line without necessitating a change in po- 
 sition ; it is almost an impossibility to change 
 position of body without its changing more or 
 less the force of the blow, therefore the more 
 uniform they are the better the saw will run, 
 and the less work to have the saw right. A 
 new beginner, by keeping these facts in view 
 will enable him to be more successful. Some 
 times it is necessary to deliver a heavier blow 
 
73 
 on some parts than upon others, as the case 
 may demand, the higher the spot or defect, the 
 heavier should be the blow. Each blow deliv- 
 ered should be marked off at a uniform dis- 
 tance apart. In laying out the saw by the dia- 
 gram as shown, it can be done more accurate 
 than hammering the saw without doing so, 
 where each is laid out it can be done on both 
 sides so that the blows will be delivered exactly 
 opposite each other. In opening the saw 
 where the blows are delivered promiscuously 
 or without laying them out, they are never uni- 
 formly opposite each other and therefore the 
 work imperfect, and will require more time to 
 level up or straighten the saw. After you have 
 it opened sufficient, it is always necessary to 
 test the plate and ascertain if the tension is 
 uniform and equal ; some times after the saw 
 has been opened, so as to appear right and the 
 hard spots are taken out, the saw will be found 
 too open ; one should work with great care and 
 precision to have it right. When that is ad- 
 hered to and followed out the saw will be 
 perfect in all respects. 
 
 The more imperfect a saw runs the more 
 power it takes to drive it, and the greater the 
 
loss in stock, wear and tear of machinery, and 
 less can be. accomplished. 
 
 I have endeavored to set forth the impor- 
 tance of having the saw right, and will now 
 give such instructions as will enable unskilled 
 men to keep their saws in far better shape. 
 It ought not to be expected that a new be- 
 ginner in hammering saws cause them to do as 
 well as they are likely to do after they may 
 have had some experience and practice, but 
 will be of benefit from the first. 
 
 The first step in order to make a success 
 is to have a thorough knowledge of the tools 
 and how to use them ; and will commence 
 with 
 
 THE STRAIGHT-EDGE AND 
 ITS USE. 
 
 They should be of steel, and four of them of 
 different lengths, as follows : No. i should be 
 4 feet in length with a V shaped edge and per- 
 fectly straight ; most every one uses them with 
 a square edge., and hold it at an angle on 
 the saw to admit of light under it, to ascer- 
 tain where the defect may be ; the straight- 
 edge should have such an edge that it will 
 
75 
 
 CUT NO. 6. 
 
 show the defect in the saw when held at 
 an angle with the side of the saw, it will 
 not detect the imperfection so readily as 
 when at right angle, Plate No. 6 shows the 
 long straight-edge applied to the saw, and how 
 the saws will appear under different aspects 
 when applied, as in figure i. This plate re- 
 presents the saw resting upon one edge and held 
 
7 6 
 
 by hand raised clear from the anvil, the heft of 
 the saw will cause it to spring as is shown, the 
 straight-edge should be applied to it as re- 
 presented across the middle and at right angle 
 to the position in which it rests, this is the way 
 to examine and ascertain the condition in which 
 it is in. 
 
 The straight-edge should reach not less than 
 3/ the distance across the saw in order to more 
 fully show the conditon. 
 
 Many claim it not essential in having a 
 straight-edge to reach over one-half the distance 
 across the saw, but no one can detect the defects 
 so readily with a short one as can be done with 
 one reaching clear across, as when applied it will 
 show the slightest defect if any, as shown by figure 
 1 1 . This shows the straight-edge extending across 
 the saw and divided into 4 equal parts from the 
 center, each space is numbered for reference 
 hereafter. 
 
 The curved line on the underside shows the 
 saw as it will appear when opened right for a 
 speed of 10,000 Periphery feet per minute when 
 applied as represented below. 
 
 The saw should not drop away from the 
 straight-edge between lines 1 and 1, this re- 
 
77 
 presents one-fourth the size of the saw, this part 
 of the saw should be left as stiff as it can be made, 
 and there should be no hammering between the 
 two lines mentioned. 
 
 Between i and 3 the saw should be ham- 
 mered open as much as it will bear and not 
 dish either way, when the saw is hung perpen- 
 dicular upon the arbor it should appear straight 
 every way, but when resting upon the opposite 
 sides, the application of the straight-edge should 
 be had. If the saw is of medium hardness and 
 but its own weight to sag it down, the center 
 should not drop to exceed y% of an inch from 
 the center of the straight-edge between lines 
 1 and 1 or across the center of the saw, this 
 much should appear straight and not on a true 
 curve as shown by figure IV of the same cut. 
 
 The saw when hammered open in the right 
 place, that is between 1 and 3, which is the first 
 part of the saw where the hammering should be 
 done, to produce the best running saws, for the 
 following reasons. First, that portion of the 
 saw should be so open that the expansion of the 
 rim will not make it so long as to cause the saw 
 to buckle or shake as it will when too tight, the 
 saw from 2 to 3 should be opened sufficient to 
 
78 
 
 admit of the expansion of the rim while running 
 without affecting - the center. Second, when the 
 center is tight or stiff, it acts the same as a large 
 collar to support the saw without an addition in 
 thickness of the saw, th^ center does not expand 
 while running unless it should heat by the arbor 
 becoming heated, or heating from any cause it 
 will expand, and if it has been hammered down 
 to the collar as many do, the heating will expand 
 the saw so much in the center that it will cause 
 it to dish and throw it out of the log, necessiating 
 the moving of the guides to hold it in the cut. 
 In running a saw that is too open in the center 
 between the two lines i and i, it will make it 
 necessary to shift the guide often, first one way 
 then another, as many Sawyers have had such 
 experience and did not know the true cause of 
 the trouble, the more open the saw the more 
 thick and thin lumber will be made, the above 
 defects exist more or less in one-half the saws 
 in use, caused by too much hammering inside 
 of one -fourth the size of the saw. It would be 
 far better for new beginners to go slow at first, 
 and not get them quite up to the point I recom- 
 mend, nor until you have tried them, it will be 
 better to have them a little tight than too loose, 
 
79 
 
 if the saw is too tight it will make snaky lumber 
 until it gets warm, then it will run good until it 
 cools off and then it will be best to repeat the 
 hammering until it runs right, should you do too 
 much to it it would be necessary to stiffen it up, 
 by opening between 3 and the edge. One 
 should work with care, some saws will drop 
 away more than others from the straight edge, 
 and in reg-ard to this point will differ fully as 
 much again with some saws and both run all 
 right. The cause of this is in the temper of the 
 saw, a hard, firm saw will not expand so much 
 with the same speed as a soft tempered one 
 will and therefore will not drop so far by its own 
 weight. 
 
 To judge more closely when the saw is open 
 sufficient, allow it to stand upon its edge, balance 
 it nicely between the fingers, then give it a 
 sudden shake, if the vibration extends out be- 
 yond the 3rd line and is true, and vibration long, 
 this will indicate it has about the right opening, 
 but if it is too tight it will become stationary at 
 once. If too open there will be a snap or jerk 
 to the vibration, and will come to a rest as 
 quick as though not open enough. These things 
 should be closely observed. 
 
8o 
 
 Figure III represents a Saw that is too stiff 
 or open in the center, and this is the way the 
 saw will appear when tested as shown at the 
 bottom of this cut, such a saw will make very 
 snaky or winding lumber and will not run 
 until warmed in the center. Saws get in this 
 condition by becoming heated on the rim, some- 
 times by holding the saw too heavy with the 
 guide, and more times from heating the edge 
 while gumming. Whenever steel is het it 
 expands and does not fully return to its former 
 position, and this is the principal cause of saws 
 getting out of order and to require hammering 
 so often. 
 
 A great many mill-men do not understand 
 this, they send the saw to the shop to be ham- 
 mered, and when returned _will not run well for 
 a few days and is considered as bad as ever, 
 then the fault is thrown upon the hammerer, 
 when, if the truth was known it would rest 
 on the filer or sawyer, from some cause the 
 saw had been heated up and gotten out of 
 shape again. No. IV represents the saw that 
 is too open in the center, and what is called a 
 dished saw, and should be opened on the rim. 
 No. V in cut No. 6 represents a twisted saw 
 
8i 
 
 frequently found, but not so often as the other, 
 all of these defects are found by examining with 
 a long straight-edge ; this is what I use it for, 
 and to ascertain the imperfections far better 
 than with a short one, as many use those of but 
 two feet in length, and some even shorter, and 
 claim it to be all that is necessary. It may do 
 for those who have had much experience but 
 no one can do as well with the short as with 
 the long one in getting the saw just right. I 
 have hammered a great many saws with noth- 
 ing but a steel square to use ; a short one is 
 handy in taking out the lumps and in leveling 
 up the saw. I shall refer many times in what 
 may follow regarding the instructions above 
 given. 
 
 When testing to ascertain if the saw has 
 the right opening the long straight-edge should 
 be used, when straightening saws a short one 
 is better, and to be used in detecting the 
 lumps or loose spots, this is done when the 
 saw is in a perpendicular or horizontal posi- 
 tion. It is necessary to try the saw both ways, 
 which will be more fully explained in this as 
 occasion may require., 
 
82 
 
 CUT NO, 7. 
 
 LAYING- OUT SAWS FOR 
 HAMMERING. 
 
 Plate No 7 represents a saw spaced off and 
 the circular lines laid out and numbered to cor- 
 respond with the numbers on the straight- 
 
83 
 edges ; the saw has a division of four equal 
 parts from the center as is shown by circular 
 lines ; these lines should be drawn upon every 
 saw to be hammered, and if the instructions 
 are followed you may at times have occasion 
 to refer to the lines and numbers. 
 
 This plate also represents a saw that has 
 been sprung or dished close to the collars, in 
 order to remedy this state of the saw, the first 
 thing necessary will be to lay out where 
 the blows from the hammer should be first 
 given to bring the saw back to its proper 
 place. The lines running across the center of 
 the saw should be evenly spaced. In laying 
 out the saw use hard soap or tallow to mark 
 the saw, it being preferable to chalk and leav- 
 ing a plainer mark. Divide the saw into 8 
 equal parts, as shown in this plate by the 
 straight lines, this is easily done by count- 
 ing the teeth, the diameter should be divided 
 in 8 equal parts, as shown by the circular 
 lines, which can be done with a cord, 
 or if you use my bench, I have a straight- 
 edge fitted for this business, you can hold the 
 soap or tallow against this and turn the saw, 
 producing a true circle. After you have these 
 
8 4 
 
 lines laid out, then mark where the blows are 
 to be struck represented by the dots in the cut, 
 lay them out at equal distance apart, upon one 
 line the full side of the saw, always using the 
 hammer upon the high or full sides, when 
 straightening, strike a circle from each dot 
 around the center as more clearly shown on 
 cut II, this is far easier than to space off each 
 line, strike the blow upon saw just where these 
 lines cross, this should be done whenever you 
 wish to open the saw, and should be laid out 
 upon both sides with each line opposite each 
 other, so that you can deliver the blows opposite 
 to each other and the nearer perfect this is done, 
 the less labor it will be to level up the saw. 
 After you have used the hammer upon both 
 sides and the saw has not been left open enough, 
 divide the spaces equal and lay out the saw as 
 before, but between the lines worked on before. 
 It may not take as many blows upon each line 
 as has been given to produce the desired result. 
 You can lay out just half of the number as be- 
 fore, always doing the same amount of work 
 upon each side when opening the saw, unless 
 the .saw should be dished, then it would be 
 better to straighten by using the hammer upon 
 
85 
 
 the full side until the saw is straight, after you 
 have accomplished that, then use the long 
 straight edge to test the strain as shown in Cut 
 No. 6 to see if it is open sufficient. 
 
 The instructions I shall give can be followed 
 with more accuracy upon my bench, and with 
 the different appliances attached, will enable a 
 new beginner to accomplish more with less 
 labor than can be done on any anvil or rig that 
 is now in use, and would be far better for any 
 one that wishes to take the advantages this 
 conveys and to have the best tools to work with. 
 
 STRAIGHTENING A DISKED SAW. 
 
 Plate No. 8 represents a saw that is dished 
 or sprung close to the collars as will appear 
 when tested with the straight-edge, and shown 
 bv No. Ill in plate 6 on one side, and like 
 No. IV on the other side. 
 
 This saw may be open sufficient when it is 
 straightened up, to do that without opening or 
 expanding the center, it would be necessary to 
 
86 
 
 CUT NO. 8. 
 
 proceed in the following manner. Lay out the 
 saw as shown in this plate upon the full side, 
 in straightening do not use the plain face of 
 anvil as it should be padded ; this pad can be 
 made of wide belting free from rivets or uneaven 
 spots, leather or rubber; old leather is preferable, 
 cut it in shape of the top of the anvil with a 
 narrow strip left on each side to turn down, 
 
87 
 
 make a band to fit loosely around the anvil, 
 and turn the narrow strips of the pad down the 
 sides, and drop the band down over them, this 
 will keep the pad in place while in use and can 
 be removed when desired. This should always 
 be used when straightening or truing up the saw, 
 and where tight spots appear, so the saw re- 
 quires expanding or opening, it must be done 
 on the bare anvil with a hammer. If you have 
 not an anvil a hard wood block set upon its end 
 will serve the purpose of the padded anvil to 
 straighten the saw, but not to expand or open 
 it, and you must have suitable straight- edges and 
 hammer. Some recommend a hammer weighing 
 3 or 4 pounds, but I would prefer one but 2 
 pounds for a new beginner, as he could handle 
 it better and with more success at first than one 
 heavier. The face of the hammer should be 
 slightly oval or full, not too much so, neither too 
 flat, such ones as i send with the bench will be 
 of the right shape and as handy for new be- 
 ginners as any now in use. The inside circle 
 represents y^ the diameter of the saw, and should 
 not be expanded or opened inside with the ham- 
 mer, as saws generally get opened enough by 
 being sprung or dished by heating. No saw 
 
88 
 
 can be dished without the center being expanded 
 so much that it will be too open; all saws are 
 liable to the above difficulty, that is the reason 
 why the center should not be opened inside of 
 one-fourth the size of the saw, inside of the circle 
 is where the whole difficulty lays in saws getting 
 sprung, and this part should be as stiff as they 
 can be made, this will help support the saw in 
 its labor, and is a point new to many saw- 
 makers as well as Mill- Men. As I have before 
 stated, in hammering the usual way, many ham- 
 mer from center out, commencing just outside 
 of the collar; this brings the blows closer together 
 near the center, therefore weakening the saw 
 just at the place where it should be the strongest. 
 I used to do the same thing until experience 
 taught me better. The center should be as tight 
 as possible; when cold, be gradually opened out 
 to line No. 2, from there to No. 3 it should grad- 
 ually diminish again, until near one-eighth of the 
 size of the saw and the rim made tight, this is a 
 part of the saw affected by the momentum. 
 
 By opening the saw from line No. 1 to No. 3, 
 it will allow the rim to expand while running, 
 and not become looser than from 3 to 1 as this 
 part never expands by the running and seldom 
 
8 9 
 by heating, this is the reason why it requires to 
 be opened with the hammer. 
 
 I have endeavored to point out these things 
 so they can be clearly understood and what can 
 be accomplished if followed out. 
 
 In straightening a saw the straight-edge 
 should be applied very often to detect any 
 change that may have been made. The straight- 
 edge to be used in straightening the saw, should 
 be from 18 to 20 inches in length, this is the 
 most convenient for that purpose. When using 
 it the saw should be hung up plumb, the usual 
 way is to stand it upon its edge and holding it 
 plumb, this requires a helper, and that is 
 generally one that knows nothing about ham- 
 mering saws, and will allow the saw to incline 
 slightly, this will effect the condition so much 
 that it will not show the defects. When a saw 
 is standing upon the floor it is not in its natural 
 position, and will not appear as it does when 
 hung from the center, that is the way in which 
 it labors and should be held in the collars as 
 when hung upon the arbor, some saws will 
 appear all right, so much so that one cannot 
 detect any defect in it while standing on its edge, 
 but when hung upon the arbor and the collars 
 
oo 
 
 screwed up, it will be very much out of shape. 
 These things are seldom noticed or any 
 attention paid to them. 
 
 These small defects are more apt to in- 
 crease in size than diminish. As near perfec- 
 tion as possible is the object sought for in the 
 care of saws, and one should not get discour- 
 aged when reviewing this subject and its in- 
 structions, and think that they are not compe- 
 tent to undertake such a particular piece of 
 work. 
 
 The improved bench and attachments I 
 have gotten up are to assist the filer in becom- 
 ing proficient in his sphere of business. 
 
 I have heretofore mentioned relative of the 
 dished saw or one too open, the result of such 
 is it will heat in the center, and thus causing 
 it to become more dished by the expansion, 
 and such saw must be held in the lo9f with the 
 guide, and will as heretofore remarked make 
 thick and thin boards, some saws not so much 
 so as others, and requires a high rate of speed 
 to straighten them up so as to do passable 
 work, then when the motion slackens the saw 
 will lop out or in, just as the guide holds it. 
 
9i 
 
 TO HAMMER SAW THAT IS TOO 
 OPEN IN CENTER. 
 
 Cut No. 8 represents such a saw shown by 
 No. IV in plate No. 6, such saws should be 
 laid out as represented in plate No. 8, these 
 lines are the same as in No. 7, the dotted 
 lines extend from No. 2 circle to the edge of 
 the saw, and some from No. 3. Should the 
 saw require but little opening one must be 
 governed by the condition. It is not always 
 necessary to lay out quite so many lines :he 
 first time around, if you hammer on 16 lines 
 that may be sufficient, or 8 may do, others 
 may require 32 and some 64, and it is best 
 that one use his own judgment in regard to 
 this matter acording to the condition of the 
 saw. One should be very particular in laying 
 out the lines and blows to be given, so as to 
 have then exactly opposite, and if you work 
 around the saw by commencing at the outside 
 edge, turning the saw backwards from its usual 
 course and always marking the line started 
 upon, as there should not be more than one 
 blow in a place, if so, it will leave a full place 
 
92 
 
 or ridge upon the saw, and this will produce 
 what some call a rattling saw, such saws are 
 not true, it would be best to go around the 
 saw about five times, and strike upon the dotted 
 line, then turn the saw over and do the same 
 on that side, after this is done, try it with a long 
 straight-edge to see what changes have been 
 made, and repeat this operation until the saw 
 is in the right condition, as will appear in 
 plate 6 No. 2. It would be well enough to try 
 the saw in the cut when you get it somewhere 
 near right, by doing this you will gain a better v 
 idea of the results of work done, and each time 
 the saw comes off the arbor give it a few more 
 blows with the hammer. 
 
 This mode of operation will enable, a new 
 beginner to closely watch the results of his 
 past labor, and get better ideas than to be gover- 
 ned fully by the instructions, and will give him 
 practice as well as theory. 
 
93 
 
 CUT NO. 9. 
 
 A BtmOT SAW. 
 
 Plate No. 9 illustrates a burnt saw with 
 different size spots, and showing the different 
 methods to pursue with them, and generally 
 occur upon the saw as represented, frequently 
 they will be all of the same size. 
 
94 
 
 No saw will become burnt when it is all 
 right, saws generally get too tight before they 
 get burnt, such results are caused by too great 
 force and from the heavy pressure upon it 
 produces a buckle. Thes spots become hot and 
 expand, the steel will not contract again to its 
 original place, the small spots can be taken out 
 by using the hammer as shown by the dots 
 with the pad upon the anvil. The number of 
 blows I have represented to be given may not 
 be enough, or may take more or less, this is to 
 give an idea how to go to work at first, but 
 the next size spots will require a different pro- 
 cedure, this is expanded too much to admit of 
 all the steel being forced back to its original 
 place, the edge of the saw must be expanded 
 until the surface will be level or true, here are 
 dots and crosses represented on these lines, 
 the dots are upon the full side and more of them 
 than the crosses, they represent where the saw 
 is to be hammered upon the opposite side, but 
 the blows should be as uniform apart as is pos- 
 sible. It may require a number of them more 
 or less until the saw becomes straight, when that 
 is done test it with the long straight-edge as 
 before, and finish up by opening the saw to the 
 
9? 
 
 proper strain, after you have got the spots out 
 or nearly so, you can examine it with the long 
 straight-edge, and will often appear like No. V, 
 in cut 6, this represents 
 
 A TWISTED SAW. 
 
 Plate No. 10 shows the saw in that con- 
 dition and also how to lay it out for hammering. 
 
 The dots show where to hit it on the face, 
 the crosses represent the same number of blows 
 to be struck on the opposite side. In straight- 
 ening this saw the blows are delivered upon the 
 full side, and with the pad upon the anvil. 
 Saws in this condition may have originated 
 from two causes; first, from being cramped and 
 sprung; second, it will become this way if it is 
 too open on the edge and in the center, and 
 too tight between circle one and three, this will 
 cause it to appear winding, when testing such 
 saws the full spots will become slack, by spring- 
 ing the saw they will change from one side to 
 the other in some cases. While testing a saw 
 
9 6 
 
 Hi 
 
 Alffip 
 
 CUT NO. 10. 
 
 it is very important to notice how such saws 
 appear, and whether the cause is by the saw 
 being too open on the edge, or by its being 
 bent or sprung. A saw that is bent or sprung 
 should be treated as has been heretofore stated 
 and illustrated in Plate 10. If too long on the 
 edge remove pad from anvil and hammer the 
 saw as shown here, not clear around, but half 
 way as shown by the dots, then turn the saw 
 
97 
 
 over and hammer as shown by the crosses, if 
 this does not relieve or straighten it, hammer 
 on the opposite side, this will expand the saw 
 where it is too tight, also make the saw full 
 stiff after getting it as straight and true as 
 possible. 
 
 SAW THAT IS TOO STIFF 
 
 Is shown by Plate No. n, with the saw 
 laid out preparatory for hammering. This re- 
 presents both sides of saw when it is straight 
 and true, but is too tight. 
 
 This saw would make snaky lumber or run 
 out and in, and is divided into 10 equal parts 
 and i o blows for each line; in laying out this 
 saw k will be less labor to strike 10 circular 
 lines around it as shown in cut and hit the saw 
 on the cross lines, should this not open it suffi- 
 cient, divide each space by striking a line from 
 2 to 3 across the circular lines already made, 
 and go around the saw again on both sides, if 
 this does not open it enough, wipe* off all the 
 old marks and commence anew, lay out as be- 
 fore only between the former lines and just 
 
9 8 
 
 CUT NO. 11. 
 
 where it is not loose enough, lay it off and ham- 
 mer open again or repeat this until it is opened 
 enough. It would be better to test the saw 
 with the short straight-edge and long one to 
 see if it be true and level, as the case may de- 
 mand. If this is done along as you open it, 
 you will find it to come out near right, should 
 you go on and open the saw until it appears 
 
99 
 right, and then go to work to level it up or to 
 take the lumps out, it might be too open when 
 done. The best course is to open up the saw 
 as represented, and then to straighten or 
 level up. 
 
 It is necessary to use the long straight-edge 
 and then the short one, first one then the other, 
 first in one condition, second in the other, which 
 will be more fully explained in subsequent in- 
 structions. 
 
 After you have the saw very nearly perfect 
 and you come to give it a thorough test, it may 
 appear as represented. 
 
 -♦— *■ 
 
 A LOOSE SPOT. 
 
 The annexed plate No. 1 2 represents a saw 
 that is nearly perfect ; it has one loose spot. 
 
 There is not one saw in fifty as perfect as 
 this one, and not one man in a hundred but 
 what would make the saw worse than it is, if 
 they were to undertake the removal of the de- 
 fect. This spot is detected by the surface 
 dropping away from the straight-edge in testing 
 
IOO 
 
 CUT NO. 12. 
 
 it, by allowing the saw to rest upon its edge 
 and holding one side in the hand as is shown by 
 plate No. 6. This spot will commence dropping 
 away nearly out to the dots as represented. 
 Many times a saw will show such a spot on the 
 side, but when turned over and the straight- 
 edge applied it will appear full on that spot or 
 lump and require two or three blows upon the 
 
101 
 
 full side with the hammer, but should the saw 
 have the same appearance upon both sides and 
 it drops away, the indication is that the steel 
 has become expanded too much. The above 
 plate shows how to lay out the saw ready for 
 hammering. 
 
 This represents both sides and requires 
 much labor to remove the defects. It is sel- 
 dom you find so perfect a saw as this, and 
 requires much care in laying out and ham- 
 mering. If you better this saw it will run 
 better than the average, and if you get them 
 as near perfect as this, it will be safe enough 
 to run them ; as a general thing you will find 
 three such spots in saws, if so, lay out as this 
 represents. In marking a loose spot, mark it 
 with cross-lines running as far as it drops 
 away from the straight-edge and as many 
 spots as you may find. In examining saws 
 to find tight and loose spots, allow the saw 
 to rest upon its center and spring the saw up 
 and down, in doing so, the tight places will 
 rise up to the straight-edge, and when it is 
 changed to the edge first by bearing down, 
 then raise it up. When raising up the edge 
 the tight spots will drop away first, and when 
 
102 
 
 changing to bearing down, the places will 
 touch the straight-edge first, and drop first ; 
 and this spot will appear upon both sides alike. 
 This is the course to pursue in testing to as- 
 certain if the saw is leveled up properly. In 
 finishing up, this is the process to go through 
 with in order to get the saw right. These 
 spots will not show when it is standing up- 
 on its edge, nor when hanging plumb upon 
 the arbor, lumps can be found when hung up 
 plumb, but when testing the saw to find 
 the tight and loose spots, it should lay hori- 
 zontal, resting in such a way the plate can 
 be worked up and down as described, and will 
 appear like the saw in plate No. 13. This 
 shows a saw with tight spots as they will ap- 
 pear when testing, such spots should be 
 watched closely and marked as represented, 
 to enable one to use the hammer to the best 
 advantage. Such spots require to be ham- 
 mered upon both sides in order to expand them. 
 They are caused by the other parts of the saw 
 being expanded more, and will make bad run- 
 ning saws. Very few men understand how to 
 find these blemishes or what to do in the way of 
 remedy. The cause of these defects are generally 
 
io3 
 
 CUT NO. 13. 
 
 from uneven temper ; they are harder than the 
 rest and therefore will not yield under the 
 hammer with the same treatment, and will be ne- 
 cessary to hammer the saw more in the places 
 I have represented by the dotted lines upon 
 both sides ; this will expand the hard steel and 
 as soon as open enough they will appear true. 
 It is with far less labor to take out hard or 
 stiff spots, than soft or loose ones ; the loose 
 
104 
 
 spots are caused by uneven temper, the softer 
 the steel the less hammering required to open 
 the saw. A great many do not understand 
 why a saw will show its tight and loose 
 spots when they have been so careful 
 about the hammering of the saw, and 
 also so particular in striking each blow 
 just alike and at regular distances apart. 
 The reason is, some portion of the 
 saw is harder and will not yield in 
 proportion to the same heft blow on softer 
 portions of the saw, and are comparatively true 
 as to tight and loose spots, but want to be 
 opened slightly, some may think that as the 
 saw is comparatively true when they begin, that 
 if they are very careful in the uniformity of the 
 work, it will not need testing after the ham- 
 mering. There is not one in a dozen but what 
 should be tested or leveled and straightened up 
 the last thing done. In hammering one should 
 use great judgment and care not to do too 
 much at a time in any one thing. If you are 
 opening the saw, go around it a few times, then 
 try the short straight-edge, both while it is 
 hanging up and laying down, by so doing it 
 will show where the hammer should be used. 
 
io: 
 
 One should not at first open the saw as 
 much as I recommend, if you do, by the time it 
 is straightened and all the tight and loose spots 
 are out, it will then be too open, and have to 
 be opened on the rim to stiffen it, this will cause 
 more spots to again appear, and by the time 
 these are out again the saw may be too stiff, 
 but if you keep the spots out as you go along, 
 then when it is open enough it will with less 
 labor work all right. 
 
 The spots should be watched for often as 
 they are liable to appear, and mark every full 
 spot as that will be the place to use the ham- 
 mer, the loose spots have already been ham- 
 mered too much. 
 
 It is generally the fault of new beginners 
 that they use the hammer too much, and 
 neglect the use of the straight-edge, that will 
 not injure the saw-when the hammer will ! 
 The more you use the straight-edge and care- 
 fully mark all the imperfections detected, you 
 can then use the hammer carefully ; the nearer 
 you wish to come in perfecting the saw the 
 greater should be the care taken to accomplish 
 the undertaking, some times as you approach 
 completion, three or four blows of the hammer 
 
io6 
 
 will change the saw either way, as you get the 
 saw in shape, each blow should be lighter as 
 you go over it. I have endeavored to show 
 these things in as clear a light as possible, so 
 that those who have had but little experience 
 with the saw, may have the benefit of the years 
 I have had to pass through in acquiring the 
 light I have upon the subject. There is much 
 I have gained by actual experience, which is 
 the best way, provided the right principles are 
 the objects to start with ; of course, one must 
 use his own judgment. 
 
 As I have before remarked, a soft saw will 
 yield more perceptibly under the same weight 
 blows from hammer, and will expand more in 
 running, will show more opening when tested 
 with the long straight-edge yet will make a 
 good running saw. 
 
 Hard saws are the reverse of the above, 
 they will not yield so readily under the hammer, 
 nor will they expand as much when running, 
 such should not drop away from the long 
 straight-edge when being tested. 
 
io7 
 
 
 CUT NO. 14. 
 
 EXAMINATION OF SAW 
 FOR DEFECTS. 
 
 Plate No. 14 represents a saw with appli- 
 cation of the short straight- edge when hanging 
 upon arbor or bench, also when standing plumb 
 on the floor. 
 
 The short cross-lines indicate the length of 
 
io8 
 
 die straight-edge in proportion to the size of 
 the saw. In doing this it should be applied in 
 all ways, and while doing so you should stand 
 in such a position you can get the best light, 
 and be able to detect the slightest variation in 
 the saw, watching the light between the straight- 
 edge and saw so that where lumps appear mark 
 them as indicated by the small crosses, and 
 after examining the saw upon its sides, and all 
 the lumps marked, place the saw upon anvil 
 and strike a light blow with the hammer upon 
 every place marked, after you have been over 
 both sides, hang it, up again and try it as before, 
 until you have it as true and perfect as it well 
 can be and need no repetition. The portion 
 between the third line and the edge, the truer 
 it is the nicer the saw will run. 
 
 A majority of the saw- hammerers wish to know 
 the speed that the saw is to be run to give it the 
 right strain, I generally hammer saws one way 
 and when that is done right, they will do better 
 under all circumstances, every saw should be 
 hammered as open as it can be and not dish 
 either way, as you get near this you can tell by 
 the feeling of it. As I have heretofore stated 
 that just as soon as you do too much, there 
 
109 
 
 will be a snapping or jerking movement to it 
 when shaken, there will be a snapping as the 
 center passes from one side to the other, this 
 indicates the saw is too open, and the nearer the 
 center it is opened the sharper and quicker it 
 will move. 
 
 I have seen many take hold of the center 
 and shove it through from one side to the other, 
 and it will remain which ever side you leave it. 
 No saw is right in that condition. But many 
 will say that is the right way to have saws, such 
 saws may be too open from the collars to line 
 2 and too tight from 2 to 3 and will not make 
 good lumber. This is the difficulty with ^ of 
 the saws in present use. I have seen a large 
 number of saws in this condition, and many 
 good ones condemned on this account, which 
 might have been made to run all right in 1 5 
 minutes' time, if the true condition had been 
 known to the Mill- Men, and they had the proper 
 tools to do the work. Cut No. i5 represents 
 the further examination of saws by figure No. 1, 
 Plate 6, showing the defects with saw under the 
 test when resting upon each edge, and laying 
 horizontal, leaving the center to sag all that it 
 will by its own weight, this will give a more 
 
no 
 
 CUT WO. 15. 
 
 accurate rule to hammer the saw by, and you 
 are governed by its own weight and the hard- 
 ness of the metal. The straight-edge should be 
 applied at right angles with the line upon 
 which the saw rests across the center, and 
 always using the long straight-edge. Plate 
 No. 1 5 also shows how to apply the short 
 straight-edge in ascertaining the tight spots, 
 and by springing the saw first one way, 
 then the other, or up and down. Under these 
 
1 1 1 
 
 tests will be found four different kinds of 
 defects, and should be marked as represented. 
 The cross-lines same as shown in loose spots, 
 plate No. 12, and the circular dots show the 
 hard spots, these will raise up to the straight- 
 edge when springing the saw, and will do the 
 same on both sides, this should be marked as 
 shown. The crosses illustrate a lump that will 
 be visible on one side and not on the other, 
 and thus requiring the blows upon the full side. 
 In testing saws this way it will be best to ap- 
 ply the straight-edge across the saw at right 
 angles as shown by the short lines ; this will 
 detect any buckle that may have been over- 
 looked heretofore, and is indicated by the 
 oval shaped dots and will appear in the testing 
 when the saw rests upon its edge, at the 
 end of the line running across the center of the 
 saw, when the straight-edge is applied as 
 shown, it will appear full and round across the 
 line. Change the saw around and allow it to 
 rest upon the end of the line that crosses this 
 line in the center at right angles to it, then 
 apply the straight-edge upon the same line 
 where they showed before changing the saw, 
 and parallel with it, should the saw appear 
 
112 
 
 straight to the center out to the edge, this 
 shows a buckle and will only appear on one 
 side of the saw; and in order to remove it 
 without getting into other trouble the long face 
 of the hammer should be used, always holding 
 and using the hammer in such a way that the 
 long way of the face will be across the way 
 that the straight-edge is applied as shown by 
 these marks. 
 
 Heretofore I have said nothing about the 
 long face of the hammer; this part is best in 
 removing a twist or buckle, as this expands the 
 saw only one way, and that is the narrow way 
 of the face, while the round face will expand 
 the saw in a circle. When the straight-edge 
 shows the saw to be straight one way and 
 rounding the other, by applying it at right 
 angles the long face should be used the long 
 way, always in line with the line that shows 
 the saw to be straight. 
 
 It will be best in taking out lumps and 
 buckle to use the pad upon the anvil, as is 
 done in straightening the saw in all cases. 
 I have not said anything about particular 
 sized saws or for any particular kinds of work, 
 my instructions have been for circular saws and 
 
H3 
 apply to any sized saws, or any thickness 
 of plate ; what is good for one saw is equally 
 good for another. At the present day as 
 a general thing saws are run at such a 
 speed that under the foregoing treatment 
 will do well, in some cases there may be ex- 
 ceptions to the above rule, and in such, one 
 must use his own judgment ; of course, all saws 
 should not show the same opening under the 
 long straight-edge, but always leave the saw as 
 open as can be without its snapping as the center 
 is shoved through from one side to the other, 
 and should always appear straight when hanging 
 upon the arbor cool, such saws when warm may 
 dish a little, but not enough to hurt anything, 
 providing the center is left as tight as can be. 
 I call the center ^ the size of the saw, this should 
 move from one side to the other with perfect, 
 freedom, and when standing upon the floor, by 
 leaning the saw either way, it will drop first one 
 way then the other, without any snap or jerk 
 to it. I have illustrated what will make as 
 near a perfect saw as my experience has con- 
 vinced me of. There no doubt will be many 
 that will say that some things I have advocated 
 are quite wrong, but if the instructions here 
 
ii4 
 
 given are followed out, the majority of the saws 
 will be benefited to and i5 per cent. 
 
 I have dwelt mostly on straight-gauge saws, 
 but the same rule applies to taper ground saws, 
 such saws should be straight on the log side, 
 and they will straighten up when in motion so 
 that the center of the rim will be in a line with 
 the center of the plate at the collars, if the 
 saw is open enough to run good. 
 
 CHANGING SAW FROM BIGHT TO 
 LEFT AND VICE-VERSA. 
 
 Many times Taper saws are used and ham- 
 mered to be run right or left-handed, if the saw 
 is right it can be thus used, but should this not 
 be the case, the change can be made in a few 
 minutes by laying out the saw on the side you 
 wish to be the log side, as shown in plate No. 
 7, and by giving a blow upon each cross-line 
 where i, 2 and 3 crosses upon the log side, 
 this will change most any saw, but if the saw is 
 hard, then two blows on each cross-line that 
 could be determined by the first results. I gen- 
 
■n5 
 
 erally fit the saw, so that both sides are alike, 
 then they can be run on either side and equally 
 as well. If the saw is hammered straight on the 
 log side when standing, then when in motion it 
 will straighten up so that both sides will be the 
 same. When the saw is straight on one side 
 and crowding on the other, one side is stiffer 
 than the other, this would cause some saws to 
 run better which would be owing to the sides 
 of the teeth, the log side always varies the most 
 and some neglect this side and do not keep the 
 side of the teeth alike ; one side of the saw is 
 sharper angle to the tooth than the other, and 
 as a general thing it is the log side that is the 
 flattest, this will cause the saw to crowd out of 
 the cut ; such saws would run far better if they 
 were stiffer on the outside. You can have the 
 saw that way if you choose by following above 
 instructions. 
 
n6 
 
 TO LEAD THE SAW WITH THE USE 
 OF THE HAMMER. 
 
 Many have the idea, it is necessary to dress 
 the saw with a lead one way or the other. 
 Whenever a saw will not run straight, it is be- 
 cause it is not right. If the foregoing instruc- 
 tions are followed I do not think there will be 
 any difficulty in making a perfect running saw. 
 Many times the saw is all right or nearly so, 
 and is inclined to go one way or the other, 
 which is generally out of the log. In such 
 cases if the points of the teeth are examined 
 the log side has the most bearing surface, and 
 many times the corner of the teeth are slightly 
 round on this side when the other corners will 
 be full and sharp ; such may not be detected 
 with the eye, but if both sides are dressed at 
 the same angle the saw would run straight. 
 Many will give the saw lead with a file. It is 
 far less trouble to do that with the hammer, 
 and when once done in this way will remain 
 the same each day if the teeth are fitted 
 square. To do this whichever way you wish 
 to lead the saw, lay it out as in cut No. 7, and 
 
n7 : 
 
 <ro around the saw two or three times, once on 
 
 line No. 3 and once about 2 inches nearer the 
 center and strike on each cross-line, should 
 twice going around not be enough, go around 
 again about the same distance outside, this 
 will leave the saw slightly dishing that way, 
 causing it to incline or run that way. It is 
 better to have the saw hammered right, with 
 the proper shaped side-cut to the teeth, which 
 can be had by using my bench with the side- 
 jointer and gauge. 
 
 TO HAMMER SHINGLE SAWS. 
 
 The present way in making shingle saws 
 requires some different mode of treatment, as 
 they are uniformly made so heavy in the 
 cuts that they do not generally get out of 
 place there, but sometimes the saw gets sprung 
 outside of the collar, they get sprung down 
 by a spalt getting caught in the carriage, in 
 such a case remove the saw from the collars 
 and hang it upon the arbor, try the straight- 
 edge upon the straight side to find where it 
 
1 1 8 
 
 is too full, mark the places and use the ham- 
 mer on the straight side until the saw is nearly 
 level or true ; shingle saws can be slightly 
 dished from the edge of the collar out, this can 
 be done in the same way as giving lead to the 
 saw with the hammer. 
 
 If the saw is thick and driven less than 
 i ioo revolutions per minute, it will not be ne- 
 cessary to open the saw much or may be 
 slightly from the second to third line, the most 
 that can be done is to keep it straight and true, 
 and saws that cut both sides as they do in 
 double block machines, should be hammered 
 dishing nearly y s2 of an inch, some have them 
 more than that, but I do not think it best to 
 throw the edge up too much, the nearer 
 straight this saw is the better it will run. 
 
 The more the edge is thrown up out of line 
 with the center of the saw, the more the cen- 
 trifugal force will draw it down, as most shingle 
 saws run horizontal and the motion to throw it 
 down with the gravitation, together with the 
 block passing over it, all have a tendency to 
 cause the saw to incline down out of the cut. 
 The saw being thin on the edge and much 
 smaller in diameter, the rim will not expand 
 
ii9 
 
 enough to effect the running of it. Then the 
 saw is furnished with a heavy collar, which pre- 
 vents it from buckling. It is very essential to 
 keep the saw true and straight, sometimes when 
 one side may become lopped down,, it can be 
 raised with the hammer without taking off the 
 collars, and with less work than to true it up 
 with paper, and if the collar has not sprung it 
 can be brought to its original place. 
 
 CROSS-CUT SAWS AND THEIR CARE. 
 
 There are but few men that take any care of 
 a cut-off saw. In their use for cutting slabs it 
 does not matter much with them, but as a 
 general thing there are more broken cut-off 
 saws in mills than of any other class, owing 
 chiefly to carelessnes and want of the right 
 care. 
 
 Nearly every one files the front of the teeth 
 on a bevel clean to the bottom, such teeth make 
 very hard running saws, the reason is the front 
 of the teeth forms a wedge which causes the 
 
120 
 
 saw-dust to be driven each side of the cut, and 
 in heavy cuts it will wedge so that they are 
 often broken from this cause. 
 
 The best for the tooth is to give it more 
 hook than is usual, and dress it square in front 
 up to Y% of an inch of the point, this much can 
 be beveled and gives the same cutting front, the 
 bottom being square will carry the dust straight 
 ahead causing the saw to run lighter. Such 
 saws with the above treatment, will be less liable 
 to become bent and kinked or to run bad, and 
 to more fully overcome these things, heretofore 
 more set has been given, which causes the saw 
 to cut harder. The saw can be hammered the 
 same as a Rip saw, the same instructions will 
 apply to the cut- off-saws. 
 
 I have heretofore been very plain and ex- 
 plicit in regard to circular saws, as they are 
 more delicate and sensitive than any other 
 class, and requiring more skill in their man- 
 agement ; and next in order will be the 
 
121 
 
 GANG SAW. 
 
 These saws at present are but little under- 
 stood, and I have found but few who could 
 give me much light upon them. I have asked 
 every man that I have come across, who has 
 had the care of gang and saw, to give me a 
 positive rule to get the best shape of the teeth, 
 so as to bring it in contact with the timber in 
 such a way that it will cut the best 
 
 I have found as the best way to hano- the 
 saw, and one that will apply to any gate ; and 
 also that will permit the saw to strike the cut 
 in such a way as to cause the gate to strike 
 easy without pounding of lifting, as either will 
 cause the saw to run bad. There is a point in 
 the revolution of the crank where the crank- 
 pin should be when the saw takes hold of the 
 timber, or if the saw strikes the cut before the 
 crank arrives at a certain point it will cause the 
 shaft to lift, and the floor timber to spring, jar 
 or pound. It is well understood by everyone 
 that runs a gang, that there must not be any 
 lost motion in any of the movements, but some 
 have been troubled in keeping the gang from 
 
122 
 
 pounding; and many times this is a great 
 source of annoyance and break-down, causing 
 heavy expense with much unnecessary wear on 
 machinery. 
 
 TO HANG GANG SAWS. 
 
 There are a great variety of gangs with 
 much difference in the movement of the gates. 
 
 In hanging gang-saws they should be 
 hung so the saw will come in contact with 
 the timber at a certain point of the stroke. 
 It makes no difference what kind of movement 
 the gate has, the saw should take hold of the 
 timber at the right point to make a smooth 
 running gate, some oscillating ones bring the 
 saw in contact with the timber in a way that 
 makes the gate strike lighter and better. 
 
 Cut No. 1 6 is illustrative of the plainest 
 and simplest rule to hang gang saws ; one 
 that will apply to any gang, and show the exact 
 point where the crank should be when the saw 
 comes in contact with the timber. Some os- 
 
123 
 
 CUT NO. 16. 
 
124 
 
 dilating gates move the bottom of the saw 
 forward first, making an under cut, and then 
 throws forward on top and back on the bottom, 
 making what is known as the whip-saw move- 
 ment, such movement makes the easiest cut- 
 ting gate, although many get the movement 
 changed and have no rule or guide to go by, 
 illustrating how they can get it to rights again, 
 and I have seen men to have worked a whole 
 season, trying to get the gate right and to have 
 failed in the end, this rule applies to any kind of 
 a gate, and when understood can be applied 
 without much labor and will enable almost any 
 one to hang the saw so that it will work the best, 
 C represents crank showing the exact point 
 where it should be when the saw comes in con- 
 tact with the timber. By measuring from line 
 P one-sixteenth of the revolution of crank, 
 forward of the line as shown in the cut. P is a 
 plumb line from the center of crank-shaft. A 
 is the line of the cut of saw, when the crank is 
 on the lower center. B is the line of the saw 
 when the crank is upon the upper center. D is 
 a plank the same width as the stroke of the gate, 
 this plank should rest on the edge upon the 
 feed-rolls, and the press-rolls allowed to rest 
 
125 
 
 upon it to keep it upright as shown in cut 16. 
 
 Straight slide-gates require some overhang 
 to the saw, and some oscillating gates; some 
 gates are thrown forward by throwing the bottom 
 of the upper slide forward, this throws the saw 
 forward until the crank reaches the bottom of 
 the stroke, and then as soon as the saw com- 
 mences to raise, it throws the saw back clear of 
 the cut, such gates the saw does not require so 
 much overhang, and some not any, as the slides 
 give the saw the same forward movement, yet 
 that does not make any difference as to testing 
 by this rule the movement of saw. 
 
 This is simply the best and quickest way, 
 and the only one I have ever found that will 
 successfully work on all kinds of gates, and 
 show the exact motion of the saw. In practicing 
 by this rule, the first thing necessary will be to 
 make up your mind the amount of feed you 
 wish to carry, for example, I will take y 2 inch. 
 To hang the saws suitable for that in straight - 
 slide gates, the saw should have an overhang 
 of one-half the feed, and y i6 of the half inch 
 would be % 2 or % 2 of an inch in the length of the 
 stroke for y 2 inch feed, this is for friction or 
 continuous feed, but for hitch or rachet feed, the 
 
126 
 
 overhang should be Ye more than the whole 
 feed. 
 
 For example, for y£ inch feed, the overhang 
 should be % that is X / 1S more than the feed in 
 the length of the stroke, always go by the 
 length of stroke and not by length of saw, you 
 can go by twice the length of stroke and twice 
 the above overhang, or % 6 more than the whole 
 of the feed. In case your gate is an oscillating 
 one hang the saw as usual and test the hanging 
 by this rule. 
 
 The way to test the hanging of saws is to re- 
 move all of them, and then hang one saw in the 
 gate with the teeth to the back, giving the saw 
 the usual overhang or in accordance with the 
 amount of feed you wish to carry, by hanging 
 the saw with the back forward, you can mark 
 down the edge better than if it were hung right 
 side to the cut. 
 
 After the saw is hung, take a plank the 
 width of the stroke and dress it smooth so 
 that a fine mark would show, and set it as 
 shown by D, close to the saw. The press-rolls 
 to keep it upright and also to allow the feed- 
 rolls to move it the same as the cant is. After 
 this is set turn the crank-shaft slowly until the 
 
127 
 
 crank is on the lower center, mark down the 
 edge of the saw shown by line A, then turn 
 the shaft until the crank stands as shown by 
 C. This should be done accurate, setting the 
 crank % 6 of the revolution. 
 
 If the saw is hung right, the edge of the 
 saw and the line marked on the plank shown 
 by A they will just come together ; but should 
 they pass each other, there is not oscillation or 
 overhang enough to the saw for the feed, but 
 if they do not come together there is too much 
 oscillation or overhang to the saw. In the 
 latter case more feed can be carried and the 
 gate will strike better, and where the feed 
 is not enough for the overhang will cause the 
 gate to pound on the down stroke, or a chuck- 
 ing motion causing the cant to be driven back 
 and prevent from feeding' up to the regular 
 feed. The saw under such a state of affairs 
 is more likely to clog by reason of the saw 
 striking the cut after the crank has passed the 
 designated point. 
 
 After the crank has passed this point, the 
 gate begins to descend with greater rapidity, 
 and when the saw strikes the cut on the 
 
128 
 
 descent, will cause the saw to buckle and spring, 
 causing the cant to give back. 
 
 If the saw has not enough overhang or oscil- 
 lation the saw will take hold of the cut before it 
 begins to descend and while standing ; this 
 causes a lifting or pounding motion to the gate. 
 Less feed will relieve this difficulty, but to 
 carry the desired feed it will be best to over- 
 hang the saw or give more oscillation, and un- 
 til lines A and B come together as shown by 
 dotted line when the crank is at the desired 
 point ; this is where the gate begins to descend, 
 and at this point, if the saw takes hold of the 
 timber it will not take near the power to drive 
 the gate as you get the heft of the gate to 
 drive the saw through the cut. Whenever the 
 saw takes hold before reaching this point, they 
 are nearly stationary, and in coming in con- 
 tact with the timber will cause them to remain 
 standing and will require more power to start 
 the gate, and this lifts on the shaft, which un- 
 der this treatment there is more strain on the 
 machinery, but not so much danger of the saw 
 buckling as when there is too much overhang. 
 When saws are hung as described at least 2S 
 per cent, more feed can be carried as a general 
 
129 
 
 CUT NO. 17. 
 
 thing. This cut simply shows the outline of 
 the rule giving such points as are necessary to 
 make it plain to mill-men, and giving a posi- 
 tive rule for hanging saws which is applicable 
 to any kind of a movement, where the slides 
 are set on an incline, the slide can be changed 
 until the line A and B come together, and the 
 crank is at the specified point. 
 
 These points are very essential for good 
 
I ^o 
 
 running saws. Many get the saw hung very 
 near right but cannot tell how they do it, yet by 
 repeatedly trying they do it very well. 
 
 The next thing to be understood is the shape 
 of the teeth, how to set and keep them so. 
 
 TO MAKE THE BEST SHAPED TEETH. 
 
 This is a consideration with Gang Saws that 
 but very little attention is paid to. The tooth 
 should not be too long nor too short, neither 
 too heavy or too light, but should have the de- 
 sired hook and the right shape back to make 
 an easy cutting tooth, and must be of some one 
 shape preferable to another. 
 
 It is the same with Gangs as with Circular, 
 a gang tooth should come in contact with the 
 timber at the same angle or degree. I have 
 made inquiries of a great many men how to get 
 the right shaped tooth, but the general reply is 
 about so and so is the best and cannot give any 
 particular rule or way to follow. The following 
 cut No. 17 will give a fixed and positive rule 
 
i3i 
 how to make the best shaped tooth, one that 
 will give the right angle or hook to the bottom 
 regardless the way the saw is hung in the gate. 
 This cut shows the tooth full size that are gene- 
 rally being run with the saws used. The fol- 
 lowing description will enable any one to lay 
 out this tooth. First hang the saw with the 
 right overhang or oscillation for it to get the 
 right hook, drop the gate half way down, this 
 is the point where the oscillation is the most, 
 place a parallel straight-edge on the Feed Rol- 
 lers, shown by line L, allowing the teeth to rest 
 on the top, measure from the point of tooth 
 back the same distance as is the stroke of the 
 gate (for example), say 20 inches from the point 
 of tooth, at this place fasten a post or stick at 
 right angle with line L, measure one-fourth the 
 diameter of the stroke, as 20 is the whole, 5 is 
 one-fourth, place another straight-edge at the 
 point of the tooth, and the other end 5 inches 
 above the line L, make a mark on the tooth 
 from the point back the depth of the tooth, 
 this gives a quarter hook to diameter of the 
 stroke the same as the hook of circular saw, 
 the depth of the tooth is best not more 
 than one-half the distance apart on a one 
 
132 
 
 and half-inch tooth, ^ is plenty deep enough 
 to carry all the feed usually carried. I can 
 carry on a tooth of this description 1/% of an 
 inch feed without choking. 
 
 To get the right shape to the back, measure 
 from line L at the base of the tooth up to line 
 H, then place a straight-edge against the front 
 of the teeth shown by line O H, strike a circu- 
 lar line from the base of the tooth as shown by 
 the dotted line, then measure from the face of 
 the teeth back the same distance on the cir- 
 cular dotted line as it is from L to H at the 
 bottom of tooth, then strike a line from the 
 point of tooth as shown by straight-dotted lines, 
 this causes the point of tooth to come in contact 
 with the timber both sides alike, also gives the 
 right shaped tooth on the point, just about the 
 same as what is made when the tooth is pointed 
 down with the hammer, and prevents the saw 
 from drawing into the timber and buckling, the 
 tooth should be cut out as shown to make ne- 
 cessary room for saw-dust. 
 
 This makes the best shaped gang-tooth that 
 I have ever been able to find ; after you have 
 these lines on one tooth make a pattern and lay 
 
133 
 out each tooth by it, that will be right for that 
 gate. 
 
 With the old way of filing, it is impossible 
 for any to maintain them, but if my Saw- Sharp- 
 ener is used and set to one tooth it will make 
 every tooth like it and keep them just right. 
 The tooth does not get shorter or loose ; the 
 hook, which alone is of vast importance to the 
 saw gangs or others, and where there is a suc- 
 cessful way for saws to be what is desired, that 
 should unhesitatingly be adopted. 
 
 The cut showing the shape of sides of the 
 teeth of circular saws is applicable to gang teeth, 
 and should be fitted with the same care, to 
 facilitate the dressing of the sides to give the 
 desired side-cut as shown in plate 2. 
 
 My Side-Jointer perfects that with more 
 eveness than can be done with any other tool 
 now in use. 
 
134 
 
 CUT NO. 18. 
 
 "SIDE-JOINTER." 
 
 The following cut represents this little tool 
 which will save daily the price of it in the majo- 
 rity of mills. . Plate 1 8 shows this tool applied 
 to the saw, showing the shape of the tooth that 
 will produce the side- cut which will enable a 
 saw to carry more feed and less liable to clog. 
 
i35 
 
 C. C. represents two three cornered files set at 
 the right angle to form the outside corners, 
 they are set both alike giving the same angle 
 to each side of saw teeth. B B is two guides 
 or rests to govern the cut of files, and they act 
 as a clamp to hold the files, also take the place 
 of a top jointer. A is a latch to prevent the 
 sides from opening too far, upon the other end 
 is a wire spring that holds the sides of the join- 
 ter open to admit of adjusting it upon the saw, 
 when using, press the sides together with the 
 hand until the files come in contact with the 
 saw-teeth, then shove the jointer from one end 
 of the saw to the other until the teeth are dressed 
 to a uniform gauge, regulated by set-screws 
 D D. 
 
 It will be readily understood by every mill- 
 man the great advantage to be derived by the 
 use of such a tool, both in saving of time of side- 
 dressing and gauging the teeth, more particu- 
 larly with full swaged tooth, also the advantage 
 of having the set uniform and true, as this in- 
 creases the quality of the lumber and will enable 
 the saws to make more. I speak of the impro- 
 ved tools that I have, for assisting Sawyers and 
 Filers in the care of saws, any thing that will 
 
i.3 6 
 save time and tend to facilitate in the manufac- 
 ture of lumber, should be sought for by all thus 
 engaged. 
 
 TO HAMMER GANG-SAWS. 
 
 At the present time but few men understand 
 how to hammer the Gang- Saw, and many more 
 do not know as they ever require hammering 
 more than to straighten them. It is just as 
 essential that gang-saws should be hammered 
 in order to give them the right strain and to fit 
 them to make better lumber. 
 
 1 have been in a great many gang-mills and 
 never found but few men that could do this. 
 
 I have never found a set of saws made right 
 that has come from any shop, yet this is a new 
 feature in the care of them, when a set of saws 
 are hammered right they will stand up to 35 per 
 cent, more feed on the average. In order to 
 do this work one should have the right kind of 
 tools which consist of a hammer with a round 
 face such as I send with machines. I prefer 
 this kind of one rather than have two or more 
 
137 
 
 as some do ; one wants a good anvil smooth and 
 hard faced, oval or full, to enable you to draw 
 the saw at the desired place. The next is a 
 true straight-edge 8 or 10 inches in length. 
 Plate No. 19 show three gang-saws and how 
 to lay them out preparatory to hammering them. 
 
 CUT NO. 19. 
 
 It represents the straight-edge applied to the 
 saw and as you will find the majority of gang- 
 
138 
 saws, this shows the edge of the saw dropped 
 away from it, as it is applied across the saw when 
 one end is held in the left-hand and the other rest- 
 ing upon a bench, and the center sprung down 
 by its own weight. Apply the straight-edge to the 
 other side and it will appear the same way. 2 
 represents this saw upon the side laid out ready 
 for hammering. It is better to lay out the work 
 by the right system in order to help new be- 
 ginners. 
 
 This saw is very tight in the center and 
 open or long on the edges, such saws cannot be 
 properly strained, the edges being the longest, 
 when the saw is hung in the gate and the key 
 drove, the strain is through the center of the 
 plate, this leaves the edge loose, such saws will 
 dodge and make snaky lumber, and as long as the 
 center of the saw is the tightest the edge will 
 buckle. Such saws will not carry half the feed 
 that one will when just the reverse like 5. 2 has 
 five lines of blows through the center. It is best 
 at first to go along the center line, then the two 
 outside ones, then turn the saw and do the same 
 thing, if that does not open it enough, go over 
 the other two lines on both sides the same, if 
 that does not open enough, go over the saw 
 
139 
 as at first, but not so many blows on them. 
 The saw should drop away from the straight- 
 edge all that it will by its own weight when 
 resting upon both ends, and when held up 
 edgewise that it will appear straight as shown 
 by C. If the saw is opened too much it will some- 
 what assume the form of a letter S, in such case 
 the edges should be opened, and this will 
 allow the saw to straighten out ; always use the 
 hammer on the full side, saws in this condition 
 when strained in the gate are tighter on the 
 edges, and will keep the saw firm and not allow 
 it to dodge. This is quite a job where a whole 
 gang of saws are taken, but they can be done 
 a few at a time. No. 3 represents a twisted 
 saw and also how to apply the straight-edge, 
 shown by the lines running across the saw, if 
 the straight-edge is applied the other way it 
 would appear straight. You will use the long- 
 faced hammer shown by the oval dots on one 
 end and crosses on the other ; they show where 
 the trouble is, and the same rule as is applic- 
 able to circular saws. 
 
 In regard to getting out the winde or twist, 
 the lines show the way the straight-edge 
 is to be applied, and the long way of 
 
140 
 
 the hammer should cross these at right- 
 angles with the marks) the end where the 
 crosses are, wants to be turned over and the 
 blows applied on the opposite side, invariably 
 striking the saw on the full spots or rounding 
 side. Always use the long-faced hammer on 
 twisted saws, and many times it would be best 
 to use a pad on the anvil when straightening, 
 if the saw is open enough. As is often the 
 case that saws will get bent or twisted by a 
 piece of bark or sliver getting wedged in be- 
 tween the saws ; many use a wooden block for 
 this purpose, in place of an anvil which is very 
 good. Fig. 4 shows a saw bent but not twist- 
 ed ; by applying the tests as shown, the dots 
 represent the full spots ; the blows of the ham- 
 mer will take such spots out and 'straighten 
 the saw. 
 
 In hammering gang-saws they should 
 appear straight, no lumps or open spots on 
 them ; use the short straight-edge in straight- 
 ening them, and not trust to the eye. Gang- 
 saws should be made as limber as they can be 
 made, that will admit of straining them 
 better in the gate. When the saw is opened 
 in the center as I have instructed, and strained 
 
Hi 
 in the gate, both the front and back edges will 
 be of like strain ; this will prevent the saw 
 from buckling, and such will stand from 2 5 to 
 5o per cent, more feed and make better lumber. 
 
 The trouble with most of the gang-saws they 
 are gummed with the press-gummer, this ex- 
 pands the edge of saw, leaving the center tight, 
 and any slight pressure buckles the saw, 
 and it cannot carry at the best more than y 2 
 inch feed without dodging, but after the saw has 
 been opened it will carry from ^ to one inch 
 feed as well as it had y 2 inch before. 
 
 It is no trouble to make 16 gauge 
 saws stand 5/g to ^ inch feed, provid- 
 ing they are opened in the center and 
 have the right shaped tooth and side 
 dressed to give the right angle to the side. No 
 saw should be pressed gummed, it will take 
 three times as long to get the saw straightened 
 and opened as it should be after gumming, than 
 it takes to gum it out. 
 
 If my Saw- Sharpener is used it prevents 
 the stretching of the edge of saw and keeps the 
 right shaped tooth, after it is once fitted and 
 got in shape the machine keeps them so. 
 
 The instructions I have given in regard to 
 
142 
 
 gang-saws will enable all to improve the run- 
 ning of the gang. I have never found a man 
 that understood all that I have given in regard 
 to gangs, and some use one thing some another, 
 but I have made it a point to gather together 
 all the best tests experimentally and other- 
 wise, and present them in this form so that 
 who may desire can have the benefit of them. 
 
 MULAY SAWS. 
 
 They are to be hammered differently and re- 
 quire to be as stiff as can be made. In order to 
 make a saw stiff it must have an even strain, 
 which is done by hammering the plate alike, 
 and if the center drops away from ths straight- 
 edge when the saw rests on both ends and the 
 straight-edge is applied across the saw, the 
 edges, must be hammered ; should the edges 
 drop away as shown in gang, the center must 
 be opened until the straight-edge touches the 
 whole width on both sides. By close obser- 
 vation when you begin, it will not be long be- 
 fore you will get the whole thing. All imper- 
 
143 
 fections in the Mulay can be overcome the 
 same as in gang, and same instructions appli- 
 cable to them. 
 
 DRAG SAWS. 
 
 They are the same as the Mulay, with same 
 instructions applied. 
 
 » i ^ »--»- 
 
 HAND SAWS. 
 
 These saws can be bettered many times by 
 hammering the kinks out, and stiffened up the 
 same as the Mulay. All saws that are not 
 strained should be made as stiff as is possible 
 and free from buckles. 
 
H4 
 LARGE BAND SAWS. 
 
 To many these are a new saw and a few 
 suggestions as to the care of them may benefit 
 some. Owing to the thinness of the plate it 
 will require more than ordinary care in enabling 
 them to do good work. 
 
 They get kinks and lumps in them rendering 
 it necessary to have more set, and those that 
 have the care of them should understand the 
 use and benefit of the hammer. They are very 
 apt to break and when they do are sure to get 
 bent more or less, and whenever that occurs, 
 the result will be a buckle after they are straight- 
 ened if one does not understand taking them 
 out. To hammer them the anvil must be upon 
 a bench, so that one side can be directly under 
 the anvil in order to allow the other side to lay 
 flat on its face, the anvil should set by side of 
 the building, or where you can have two wheels 
 to carry the saw, and these wheels to be so 
 arranged that they can be raised and lowered so 
 that both sides of the saw can be raised over the 
 anvil, this will give an opportunity to work upon 
 the inside of the saw, then drop the wheels so 
 
145 
 
 that the top will rest on the anvil. These wheels 
 should be so that the saw can be stretched when 
 it hangs upon them, and when the saw is stretched 
 the top should hang on a line with the face of 
 anvil, as this will admit of working on both sides, 
 which is necessary to do a good job. If you do 
 not have the saw so you can handle it right, it 
 would be best not to undertake as the saw is 
 thin and would be apt to get bent or kink in it, 
 and whenever the saw gets a buckle orstiffspot 
 it may not show to the eye, but in running, the 
 stiff-spots are sure to buckle the saw in a short 
 time. 
 
 These saws should be hammered the same 
 as gang-saw, so that when the straight-edge is 
 applied across the saw, it should drop away all 
 you can make it to in the center, and still appear 
 straight-across when the straight-edge is applied 
 and the saw sitting up edgewise. No saw should 
 appear any other way than straight when the 
 straight-edge h applied perpendicular, but when 
 applied horizontal it should drop away all that 
 it will alike on both sides. 
 
 These saws are more troublesome to get right, 
 they being such length and difficult to handle, 
 requiring much time in testing them. 
 
146 
 
 After you have hammered the saw open 
 through the center so that the edges will be 
 straight, then place it upon the filing bench 
 which should also be supplied with two wheels 
 large enough to allow the saw to hang free and 
 not bend the plate, these wheels must be so the 
 saw can be strained tight, after the saw is 
 strained and there is nothing to interfere with 
 it, apply the straight-edge perpendicular and at 
 an angle of 45 degrees on both sides, this will 
 show any twist or lump that will not show when 
 tested on the side. 
 
 Go around the saw and mark all the defects 
 vou may find, then remove the saw back to an- 
 vil, and in straightening the saw on both sides 
 test it when in this position, and if you do not 
 find any stiff spots, remove it back to the filing 
 bench and try it again to see if there are any 
 more defects. 
 
 The saw should be handled with care so as 
 not to bend the same too sharp, as in so doing 
 would render it stiffer in the bends, and as the 
 saw is running over the pully this bending and 
 straightening will cause it to break in the stiff 
 spots. Some try to handle the saw without 
 suitable wheels to carry the saw when filing, but 
 
147 
 
 lay it on pins or rests. In this way it is very 
 apt to get twists and kinks in it, and in order 
 to find these defects the saw should be strained 
 but not so much as when running. It is a very 
 suitable place to test the saw when it hangs upon 
 the driving pulleys, by slacking the guides so 
 that it will hang free, then apply the straight- 
 edge both length and acrosswise and each way 
 at an angle of 45 degrees, this will detect any 
 imperfections that may be in the saw, marking 
 at the same time such defects as may appear, 
 and use the hammer until they are removed. 
 
 This is the most difficult saw of any in use 
 to keep in order, both in hammering and 
 filing. 
 
 My machine is the only one that will fit this 
 kind of saw. Many use too deep a tooth and 
 then carry too much set. In order to make these 
 saws run good the teeth should be sprung the 
 same as any spring set tooth. 
 
 They should be done so, close to the point ; 
 and not carrying any more set than is necessary 
 to clear the plate, the truer the plate the less set 
 can be carried, as soon as the saw gets bent 
 more set will be required to clear the plate. I 
 have endeavored to give such points discovered 
 
1 48 
 
 as will be beneficial in their care, and as the 
 band saw is comparatively new, there may yet 
 be many discoveries that will be beneficial to 
 them. On this subject I have endeavored to be 
 as plain and comprehensive as possible as also 
 the different ones preceding this, which I trust 
 may be of intrinsic value to all interested. 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 I have in the foregoing deemed it advisable 
 to detail elaborately upon the most essential 
 machines and tools, together with their usage 
 and treatment spoken of or refered to in this the 
 "Handy Guide," des'gned and compiled for the 
 benefit of Mill-Men and Saw- Filers, relative to 
 the Hammering of Saws, and what can be ac- 
 complished by them when kept in the condition 
 I have illustrated they should be, how and by 
 what method the best results may be obtained 
 when the instructions this book has been de- 
 signed to give are carried into effect. 
 
 I would also in this connection state that my 
 
149 
 
 Saw- Sharpener, which has heretofore been 
 brought to notice many times in subjects treated 
 upon, and of the general favor bestowed upon it 
 by all who have become familiar with the 
 advantages derived from it. 
 
 Would also add here that the general lack 
 in mills for the right facilities to keep the saw 
 in the order it should be kept in for its successful 
 work, and too, for something reliable and much 
 needed in connection with the saw-sharpener, 
 has been fully met by my portable saw bench, 
 and will be found to be an indispensable 
 machine to mill-men. 
 
 As the hammering of saws has been but 
 very little understood in the past, and is of vast 
 importance to the successful running of the saw. 
 I feel it a duty to prominently mention this as 
 one of the greatest acquisitions to the mill. 
 
 I would also speak of the intrinsic w r orth of 
 the side-jointer. See plate 18 for side-jointing 
 the teeth, which also mention has been made 
 under the appropriate head, as index will refer 
 to, in detail with other subjects connected with 
 the care and usage of the saw, and to be found 
 in their several allotted places in this book. 
 
 As my saw- sharpeners (see cuts Nos. 20 
 
i5o 
 
 and 21), have become pretty well known, and 
 given universal satisfaction to all who have had 
 them, I feel it due to mill-men and myself, 
 that I make quite an extended claim for its 
 merits. It is but a very few years since being 
 brought into notice, and during the time I have 
 made many improvements regardless of time 
 and expense, and now claim, as I have heretofore, 
 that they are the best machine of the kind in 
 this or any other country, and the most perfect 
 of any ever introduced into a mill; has been 
 and now are acknowledged so by every un- 
 prejudiced person who has ever used them, 
 and gained a reputation that no other machine 
 of the kind has. 
 
 I claim for them a great saving in saws, 
 labor and files, and to do perfect work. Its 
 use dispenses with gumming and leaves the 
 saw round and in perfect balance ; is adapted 
 equally to the gang and large band saws as to 
 the circular saw, every tooth dressed after a 
 form, and therefore, all alike, and can make 
 any given shaped tooth, can be square or 
 bevel with any desired hook ; lead can be 
 given saw from top, bottom or both, as may 
 be desired. Saws sharpened by this machine 
 
i"5i 
 
 can be two or three gauges thinner, requires 
 less set and stand more feed than any other 
 way of sharpening ; leaves a fine polished edge 
 on the tooth, and holds the edge better than 
 any other way of dressing ; the surface of the 
 steel when dressed with emery wheel is harder 
 and more compact (not case-hardened) but the 
 edges of teeth wear longer. 
 
 The benefits to be gained cannot be fully 
 understood by any one without trying the 
 machine. 
 
 It is not my desire to impose upon mill- 
 men any machine or tool I have to or may 
 offer, unless they are all I claim them to be. 
 For the general treatment of saws and such 
 other information connected therewith that will 
 be of interest I would refer to the subjects 
 as they appear in the index, and if anything 
 connected with these subjects are not fully 
 understood, by corresponding with me I would 
 gladly give such information asked for, that 
 without doubt would be satisfactory. I am 
 familiar with the best machinery in use for 
 the care of saws, and fully prepared to fur- 
 nish any machines or tools that may be re- 
 quired and at the lowest prices. 
 
l52 
 
 And as a specialty in emery wheels, from 
 my own experience, I shall furnish such as 
 I can fully vouch for, and at manufacturers' 
 prices. • 
 
 Proprietors of lumber mills who are not sup- 
 plied with these labor-saving machines and 
 tools that mention has been made of in 
 this book, will find it to their interest to cor- 
 respond with me at their earliest convenience, 
 as I claim that the advantages gained by the 
 saw-sharpener, independent of any other ma- 
 chine or tool I have mentioned will be sufficient 
 to pay for it in ninety days ; other things men- 
 tioned have their relative and intrinsic worth in 
 conjunction with the saw-sharpener. 
 
 I will not expect everyone to order a ma- 
 chine or other things 1 have offered, if they 
 should, it would be impossible to fill all orders ; 
 yet a few wish to excel in their business, and 
 from such I expect patronage ; and those who 
 may favor me with their orders, I will fully 
 satisfy of all I claim. 
 
 I deem it may be well to insert as the 
 " finale " to this book, testimonials from some 
 of the mill-owners in Muskegon, Michigan, 
 where a large number of my machines have 
 
i5 3 
 
 VCUT NO, SO, 
 
1 5 4. 
 
 CUT NO. 21, 
 
i55 
 
 been introduced, and too, before important 
 improvements that I have since made to them, 
 which fully substantiate all that I claim, and 
 this being the expression of all that have used 
 them, I will, in connection to the foregoing, 
 add an extract of quite a lengthy notice that 
 appeared in a periodical published in this city. 
 
 M. COVEL, Patentee and Proprietor, 
 259 E. Randolph St., 
 
 Chicago, Ills. 
 
 • — * ^ » ■ 
 
 TESTIMONIALS. 
 
 The following testimonials are from some 
 of the mill-owners of Muskegon, where a large 
 number of them have been introduced, which 
 fully substantiate all that I claim, and as this is 
 the expression of all that use them it is not 
 necessary to add any more : 
 
 Muskegon, June 29, 1878. 
 M. Covet, Chicago, III. 
 
 Dear Sir : — The saw-sharpener which we 
 have in use in our mill does its work well, 
 and we think makes a saving to us of $6.00 
 per day in labor and files. We are now run- 
 ning thirteen gauge saws in our gang and carry 
 
1 56 
 
 three-quarter inch feed, and have two more 
 saws in the gate than when we began using 
 your machine. Yours truly, 
 
 HACKLEY, McGORDEN & CO. 
 
 Muskegon, April ii, 1878. 
 M. Covel, Chicago, III. 
 
 Dear Sir: — The two sharpeners manufac- 
 tured by you for us, are the only sharpeners 
 that we have ever found. They more than 
 take the place of files, keeping our saws in per- 
 fect condition. We think no mill-man would 
 be without them afer using them. 
 Respectfully yours, 
 
 RYERSON, HILLS & CO. 
 
 Muskegon, July 6, 1878. 
 M. Covel, Chicago, III. 
 
 Dear Sir: — We cut 180,000 feet of lumber 
 per day during the running season, using two 
 circulars and a gang. Have had two of M. 
 Covel's patent saw sharpeners in use nearly a 
 year. Never use a file on our saws and they 
 run better and will last twice as long. We 
 
1 5; 
 
 save the time of two men with this saw-sharp- 
 ener, which is the only one we have ever seen. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 TORRENT & ARMS LUMBER CO. 
 
 Muskegon, July 5, 1878. 
 M. Covel, Chicago, III. 
 
 Dear Sir : — Our saw-sharpeners are doing 
 well. Our saws will last a year longer than if 
 we used files, and we cut 5ooo feet more lum- 
 ber per day and do the work better. We 
 would not do without it in our mill, and think 
 they make a saving to us in saws, labor and 
 files of at least #10.00 per day. Our average 
 daily cut is i5o,ooo feet throughout the season. 
 Have two circulars and a gang. 
 
 Truly yours, 
 HAMILTON, GERRISH & CO. 
 
 Muskegon, July 11, 1878. 
 M. Covel, Chicago, III. 
 
 Dear Sir : — Your automatic saw-sharpener 
 works well and gives good satisfaction. We 
 find a great saving in labor and files. 
 
 Yours, &c, 
 ., C. DAVIS & CO. 
 
1 58 
 
 Muskegon, July 17, 1878. 
 M. Covel } Chicago, III. 
 
 Dear Sir : — I have one of your saw-sharp- 
 eners working on sixteen gauge saws with 
 teeth seven-eighths of an inch apart, and I 
 think it works splendidly. It has given good 
 satisfaction, keeping teeth even length and 
 gummed, ready for work at all times. I 
 think no mill-man would be without one after 
 using it. Yours respectfully, 
 
 T. S. FARR, Agent. 
 
 EXTRACT FROM THE "NORTH WES- 
 TERN MANUFACTURER" AS 
 FOLLOWS. 
 
 One of the greatest Industries of the North- 
 west is the manufacture of lumber. Millions of 
 money are invested in the industry, and tens 
 of thousands of people are directly engaged in 
 carrying it on. 
 
 Improvements therefore in any branch of 
 the business of manufacturing lumber — whether 
 in machinery or in the mode of operation — 
 will be almost of general interest. 
 
i5o. 
 
 We have seen a machine invented and 
 manufactured by M. Covel of this city for 
 automatically sharpening saws, in which every 
 lumber manufacturer or person interested in 
 this industry must be interested. 
 
 Manufacturers of lumber, lath and shingles, 
 have long felt the need of just such a machine 
 as Mr. Covel has to offer them, which not 
 only enables them to improve the quality of 
 their products, but at the same time is 
 cheaper. 
 
 It is fully understood that the more per- 
 fectly a saw is sharpened, the more lumber 
 it will cut, and the better it will do it. As 
 we understand, formerly an expert was 
 employed in each mill, at high wages, to file 
 saws, but all progressive, intelligent and 
 enterprising lumber manufacturers now-a- 
 days avail themselves of the improvements 
 that have been made by ingenious mechanics 
 and practical men, who have devoted time, 
 talent and money to the invention of labor- 
 saving machines for this purpose. 
 
 Of course all these inventions have not proved 
 successful, but the saw-sharpener has been 
 deemed by many of the most extensive lumber 
 
i6o 
 
 manufacturers in the West as nearly perfect 
 for the purpose intended as a machine can be 
 made, and to fully accomplish all that is claimed 
 for it by the inventor. 
 
 As an evidence of the estimation in which it 
 is held, we give this little incident. 
 
 The proprietor of one of the most complete 
 lumber mills in the West, after showing us 
 over the mill and pointing to the improvements, 
 remarked, "and now I must show you my pet 
 which I have reserved for the last," when he 
 led the way to a neat little room devoted to 
 the saw-sharpener, which was industriously 
 working away, doing its duty like a thing of 
 life and intelligence. 
 
 These machines are now being manufac- 
 tured by the inventor and patentee, 
 
 M. COVEL, 
 259 E. Randolph St., Chicago, 111. 
 
 KD -2.30 
 
 Q> 
 

 A 
 
 
 9> •& 
 
 ,*= 
 
 ^ c ° w ° * <** (V 
 
 ifc ° " ° 
 
 *0' 
 
 ^ • J^^^W^ o> 
 
 H° A 
 
 l0^ 
 
 
 0>«^ - 
 
 ^0 
 
 ±0 v\ 
 
 
 ■ ^ -, 
 

 • ^ o 
 
 
 
 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 1 
 
 017 002 266 A