O " © • » - .A > '° • * " A *bV < ^°^ Hoffman House, NEW YORK. mm * mmh C^cXS f PR OPRIETORS. TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. (JonfinrnfaK JGiifp Insurant? (jo, OIF ZN-^EW "Z-O^^I, Office, - - - - 22, 24, find 26 Nassau Street (Continental Building). DIRECTORS. James H. Colgate, Trevor & Colgate, Banker?. Chaunoey M. Depew, Late Secretary of State. Justus Lawrence, President. G. Hilton Sckibneb, New York. Joseph T. Sanger, Merchant, No. 45 Liberty Street. M. B. Wtnkoop, Wynkoop & Hallen- beck. Henry C. Fish, D.D., Newark, N. J. Richard W. Bogart, O. M. Bogart & Co., Bankers. Luther W. Frost, New York. The most successful and most enter- prising Company in the United States. Branch Offices in all the principal States. Plan M!iit-u.al. PROFITS OF THE COMPANY ANNUALLY DIVIDED. One-third, of the Premium may remain unpaid as a Loan No Notes Inquired. Policies Non-Forfeitable. Thirty days' grace allowed in payment of Premiums. Insured have the widest liberty to travel in any part of the world, WITHOUT EXTRA CHARGE. Policies issued in 1868 ----- 6,004. Total Policies issued to May, 1869 - 14,000. Assets ----- - - $2,500,000.00. JUSTUS LAWRENCE, President. J. T. ROGERS, Secretary. THE SUMMER TOURIST'S POCKET GUIDE. JXJ3VE?- [ P g o .., ... • • 372 iv INTRODUCTION. For every passenger, any distance exceeding a mile and within two miles $o 75 For every additional passenger 37 \ For conveying one passenger to the New Alms House, and returning I 00 For every additional passenger 50 For conveying one passenger to 40th Street, remaining half an hour, and returning I 50 For every additional passenger 50 For conveying one passenger to 61st Street, remaining f of an hour, and returning 2 00 For every additional passenger 50 For conveying one passenger to 86th Street, remaining an hour, and returning 2 50 For every additional passenger 75 For conveying one or more passengers to Harlem or High Bridge, and returning, remaining three hours. 5 00 For conveying one or more passengers to King's Bridge and returning, with privilege of carriage all day. ... 5 00 For the use of a hackney-coach or carriage by the day, with one or more passengers 5 00 For the use of a hackney-coach or carriage by the hour, with privilege of going from place to place, and stopping as often as may be required 1 00 When the hiring of a hackney-coach or carriage is not at the time specified to be by the day or hour, it shall be deemed to be by the mile. Whenever a hackney-coach or carriage shall be detained, excepting as aforesaid, the owner or driver shall be allowed at the rate of 75 cents an hour. INTRODUCTION. CENTRAL PARK HACK FARES. All around the Park $4 00 Principal parts of the Park 3 00 Casino and Lake, and return 2 00 Or by the hour, $2 first ; $1.50 succeeding hours. For the convenience of those using the most popular of all the city means of conveyance, we append a complete list of the city or horse railway lines. CITY RAILROADS. Bleecker Street and Fulton Ferry. — From Ful- ton Ferry, through Beekman, Centre, Crosby, and Bleecker, to 14th Street, at North River. Yellow Cars. — From Ful- ton Ferry, through Chatham, Canal, Elm, Bleecker to 14th Street and North River. Broadway and Seventh Avenue. — From north side of Astor House, through Church, Thompson, Green- wich Avenue, and Seventh Avenue, to Central Park. Re- turning over same route to Thompson, thence through W. Broadway to Astor House. Broadway Railroad. — From north side of Astor House, through Church, Greene, University Place, Broad- way and Seventh Avenue to Central Park. Returning over same route to University Place, thence through Wooster and W. Broadway to Astor House. Branch line at Broome and Broadway. vi INTRODUCTION. ■/ Broadway and Clinton Street. — From Park Row, through East Broadway and Avenue B, to 34th Street Ferry, East River. Canal Street and Grand Street Ferry.— From, junction of Canal and Broadway to Grand Street Ferry. East River. (See Grand Street Ferry to Cortlandt Street Ferry.) Central Park, North and East Mirer,— (Eastern Division.) From South Ferry, through Front, to Grand Street Ferry ; thence through Avenues A, D, and First, to Fifth Avenue, and Central Park. Central Park, IVortli and East River.— ( Western 'Division) From South Ferry, through West Street and Tenth Avenue to 59th Street and Central Park. East Broadway and Dry Dock.— From Park Row, through Chatham, East Broadway, and Avenue D, to Dry Dock. Eighth Avenue. — From Vesey and Broadway, through West Broadway, Hudson and Eighth Avenue, to Central Park. Branches from Broadway and Canal ; one to Cen- tral Park, and the other to Manhattanville. Fir§t and Second Avenue Railroad. — From Peck Slip, East River, to South, to Bowery, to Second Ave- nue, to Central Park, to Harlem, returning through First Avenue. Forty-Second Street and Grand Street Ferry. — From Grand Street Ferry, East River, through Avenue A, 14th Street, Broadway and 34th Street, to Tenth Ave- nue and 42d Street. INTRODUCTION. vn Fourth Avenue Railroad. — From Park Row, op- posite Astor House, to Grand, to the Bowery, to Fourth Avenue, to. 27th Street, connecting with New Haven and Harlem Railroads ; thence to 34th Street Ferry, connect- ing with the Long Island and Flushing Railroads. Grand Street Ferry to Cortlandt Street Ferry. — From Grand Street Ferry, over same route as Canal and Grand Street Ferry, to Canal and Broadway ; thence through Walker, North Moore and West, to Cortlandt Street Ferry. Hudson River Railroad.— From comer of Broad- way and Warren Streets, to Hudson, to Tenth Avenue, to 30th Street, connecting with steam-cars to Albany. Ninth Avenue Railroad. — From north side of As- tor House to West Broadway, to Greenwich, to Ninth 1 Avenue, to 51st Street and Central Park. Sixtli Avenue R lilroad. — From south side of Astor House to West Broadway, to Sixth Avenue, to Central Park. Branch at Canal Street. Thircl Avenue Railroad.— From Park Row, oppo- site Astor House, to Bowery, to Third Avenue, to Central Park, to Harlem Bridge. Connects with Morrisania horse R. R. viii INTRODUCTION. HOTELS. Next to the means of reaching them, the first considera- tion of the stranger or traveler arriving in New York is to procure comfortable quarters. In this matter he will have all needed facility. No city in the world surpasses New York, either in the extent or splendor of its hotel accommoda- tion ; while in the number and excellence of its restaurants, and lodging and boarding houses, it is far in advance of any other city on the American continent. As the Guide is de- signed for popular use, the editor will endeavor to meet the tastes and wishes of all, by treating of each of these descrip- tions of accommodation briefly, under separate heads. The choice of a lodging in New York should, as it most often does, depend upon the object of the traveler's visit, whether it be business, study, or pleasure, and on the length of his purse. The price of lodging varies with the season, the quarter, and the status of the hotel. Of hotels, there are upward of 150 in the city proper. We will briefly enumerate the most commodious and desir- able. The Fifth Avenue Hotel is unsurpassed for the extent of its accommodation, and the excellence and good taste with which it is furnished. It has many conveniences and advan- tages over other strictly first-class hotels. Its location, at the intersection of Fifth Avenue and Broadway, facing Madi- son Square, is one of the best the pity affords, commanding easy access by means of numerous lines of street railways, with the down-town business quarter, and a pleasant stroll- ing-ground or ramble for ladies and children. It is built of marble, is six stories high, and presents, when viewed INTRODUCTION. ix from the square, a most imposing appearance. Its great hight, which otherwise might be thought an objectionable feature, is made subservient to a mechanical contrivance, known as a vertical railway, by means of which guests can reach their rooms, or any part of the house, with ease and despatch. It has first-class accommodations for 1,100 guests. Dnrling, Griswold & Co. are the proprietors. The Hoffman House, at the corner of Fifth Avenue and Twenty-fifth Street, also directly facing Madison Square, and immediately north of the Fifth Avenue Hotel, is an ad- mirably appointed and well-kept house. It is conducted on the European plan, and has a well-ordered restaurant at- tached. This is a most convenient up-town breakfast and dining place. It is wholly independent of the sallea manger y or regular dining-room of the hotel. The rooms are commo- dious and newly furnished, and the cuisine excellent. It is under the management of Messrs. Mitchell & Read. The Brevoort House is in Fifth Avenue, corner of Eighth Street (Clinton Place). This house has one of the most de- lightful locations in the city, combining the quiet retirement of a private mansion with ready access to Broadway and the leading thoroughfares. This has always been a favorite stopping-place with Europeans visiting the United States — the plan upon which it is kept, and the system adopted by its proprietary, being such as to specially commend it tc* those accustomed to European habits. The New York Hotel, on Broadway, at its intersection with Waverley Place, is a well-kept house, much patronised by Southern and Cuban travelers. Hildreth & Co., proprie- tors. The Astor, opposite the City Hall, is one of the oldest and most popular houses in New York. It is under the x INTRODUCTION. able management of the Messrs. Stetson. It is constructed wholly of Quincy granite, and contains 326 chambers. Its noble facade of over 200 feet on Broadway, renders it one of the most prominent objects in that quarter of the city. The Metropolitan and the St. Nicholas, on Broadway, above Canal Street, are both excellent houses. The Clarendon, in Fourth Avenue, at the corner of Seven- teenth Street, is a good house, and much frequented by English travelers. The Everett House, facing Union Square, has one of the most delightful locations in the city ; it is especially a desirable house for families ; the cuisine and attendance are such as to recommend it to those capable of aporeciating the comforts of home life. The St. Denis, corner of Broadway and Eleventh Street, and the St. Germain, on Twenty-second Street, at the in- tersection of Broadway and Fifth Avenue, are both desira- ble houses, with good restaurants attached. The Gramercy Park House has a retired and beautiful location in one of the most pleasant neighborhoods for a family hotel, between Twentieth and Twenty-first Streets. The Albemarle is a quiet and well-conducted house, in Twenty-fourth Street, in the immediate neighborhood of Madison Square, the Fifth Avenue, and all the leading up-town hotels. Restaurants. — The restaurants of New York rank next to the hotels in importance, and are much more numerous. For gentlemen traveling alone, these establishments offer many inducements. Nothing is more common than for New Yorkers, including ladies and invited guests, to dine or sup at a restaurant. Restaurants are of two kinds : the first and most popular, where meals are served a la carte ; the other at a fixed sum per meal. Detmonicds, in Fifth Avenue, oc- cupying the entire square between Fourteenth and Fifteenth INTRODUCTION. xi streets, is the largest establishment of the kind in this or perhaps any other city ; another establishment, on the corner of Broadway and Chambers Street, kept by the same firm, serves excellent dinners. The New York Restaurant (Gey- er's), on Broadway, nearly opposite the New York Hotel serves excellent dinners and private suppers. A table d'hote at six o'clock. The bar attached to this house has no supe- rior in the city. Among the down-town restaurants, Del- monico's, and Berry s, in Broad Street, are the most largely patronized. They are in the immediate neighborhood of the Stock Exchange and Wall Street. Dining-rooms and lunch- counters are attached to each. Sutherland's, on Cedar Street, between Broadway and Nassau, is also an excellent lunch- house. Cafes. — These are few, and, comparatively speaking, poorly patronized by Americans. The French and Spanish popu- lation go to a cafe to take a demi-tasse of coffee and a petit verre de liqueur, instead of sitting over their wine at a hotel or restaurant. The Cafe du Commerce, in Broadway, north of Canal Street, is among the best of its class. Confectioners and Pastry-Cooks. — Maillard's, 621 Broadway, north of Houston, is an excellent restaurant and confectionery, much frequented by ladies, as is also that of Mendes. The ice cream and other summer delicacies served at Maillard's have no superior in the city. Lodging and Boarding Houses.— These abound in every quarter of the city, and embrace every kind and quality of accommodation, from the luxuriously-furnished parlor suite on Murray Hill or Madison Square, to the third floor back-i 00m or hall-chamber in the down-town quarter. Board- ing-house fare and accommodation are poor at the best, and strangers visiting New York have generally learned to xii INTRODUCTION. avoid them. Furnished apartments in private houses (mai- sons meublees), from a complete range or suite adapted for housekeeping, to a single chamber, can be had in almost every locality in New York, at prices ranging from $20 to $150 per month. It is not, howevei, customary, nor is it ad- vantageous, to take apartments for a stay of a few days. Lodgings may be hired by the night, week, or month. Ex- cept for the latter period, which may be made a matter of special agreement, payment is always expected in advance. The Daily "Herald" furnishes the most complete list of " rooms, etc., to let." A distinguishing social feature of New York, among other cities of America, is its clubs. Clubs. — These answer to the cercles of Paris, and are twenty in number. The best are the Union, on Fifth Avenue, corner Twenty-first Street ; the New York, No. 2 East Fif- teenth Street ; the Manhattan, 96 Fifth Avenue ; the Century ^ 42 East Fifteenth Street ; the American Jockey Club; the Trav- elers', 222 Fifth Avenue ; the City, 31 Union Place ; and the Union League, Madison Avenue and Twenty-sixth Street. The Union Club House is the finest structure of its kind in the city. It is of brown stone, and cost $300,000 to build. There are also several yacht, chess, cricket, velocipede and skating clubs, and club-houses. The grounds and house of the St. George Cricket Club are at Hoboken, near the Elysian Fields. Saloons. — The saloons of New York form a distinctive feature of metropolitan life ; many of these establishments, in their extent and the brilliancy of their interior fittings, being scarcely excelled by the famous cafes of the French metropolis. The most admired and frequented are those of the Fifth Avenue, Metropolitan, and St. Nicholas hotels, and INTRODUCTION. xiii the Rotunda of the Astor House. The bars of the three first- named afford fine specimens of a kind of adornment much in vogue in the metropolis. The Oyster Saloons are numer- ous, and generally well conducted. Wi Hard's and the Oys- ter Bay, on Broadway, are famous resorts for the lovers of this delicious dish. Terms, Prices, Etc. — Charges at the leading hotels are $5 per day, which includes everything except wine, and extra apartments and attendance. At many of the smaller houses, moderate-sized rooms and board can be had at prices ranging from $3.50 to $4.50 per day ; but they are not always desirable on that account. As a general rule, the stranger would do well to patronize only those hotels mentioned in this guide. The prices of furnished apartments in choice localities range from $10 to $25 per week. When board is included, $8 to $10 per week more is charged. Prices at restaurants are wholly regulated by bill of fare, except " ordinaries " are served, in which case $1 to $1.50 for dinner will be found the average charge. We would caution the stranger in New York against too great haste in selecting rooms or board. Be not deceived by appearances. While there is no lack of respectable boarding and lodging houses in the city, there is a still larger number of establishments, known as boarding- houses, which the stranger will do well to avoid. BATHS. Besides the private baths, with one or more of which the leading hotels and first-class boarding-houses are fitted, there is little to tempt the stranger in New York to enjoy that greatest of all luxuries — a bath. There are no swimming baths worthy the name, except such as Nature has lavishly xiv INTRODUCTION. provided on the bay and neighboring shores. A movement is now on foot to secure adequate public baths suited to the wants and means of the poorer classes. For those fond of the Turkish and Russian vapor baths, the Turkish Bath Es- tablishment, at No. 13 Laight Street, near Canal, and those conducted by Dr. Guttman, at 25 East Fourth Street, will be found the best. The former establishment, under the pro- prietorship of Drs. Miller and Wood, is admirably arranged and conducted. It is pleasantly and centrally located, near the intersection of Canal and Laight streets, and is easily reached from Broadway, Hours : gentlemen, 6 to 8 a. m. and 1 to 9 P. M. ; ladies, 10 to 12 a.m. MINERAL WATERS. There is nothing more grateful or healthful, during the warm, enervating months of summer, than mineral waters, carefully prepared and judiciously used. Dr. Hanbury Smith's well-known establishment, " The Spa," 35 Union Square, is the largest and best establishment of the kind in the city. Those desirous of drinking these famous waters farther up town will find them at the pharmacy of Caswell, Hazard and Co., under the Fifth Avenue Hotel. At both establishments the waters of the more important European Spas may be drank at the natural temperature, from early morning till near mid- night. The beautiful parks in front of each establishment offer every opportunity for the gentle promenade so condu- cive to the proper action of the healing waters. But, in ad- dition to these larger " headquarters," nearly all the respect- able druggists in the city are supplied with Hanbury Smith's Kissingen (Rakoczi), Vichy, Seltzer, and other popular waters, so that one has seldom more than a block or two to INTRODUCTION. xv go, in order to enjoy this great luxury and convenience — a glass of fresh, cool, sparkling mineral water. John Gelston, successor to A. J. Delatour, at 25 \ Wall Street, below Broad, dispenses excellent soda and mineral waters. The plain soda manufactured at this establishment has been in high repute for half a century. Orders for these famous waters will be promptly supplied, both in city and country. PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. The Academy of Music (Opera House), destroyed by fire, May 21, 1866, and rebuilt in 1S67, is at the intersection of East Fourteenth Street and Irving Place. -The Grand Opera House, (late Pike's) 23rd Street and 8th Avenue, is a large and costby edifice. The interior arrangement of this building is better, and the decorations more sumptu- ous, than those of any other dramatic establishment in the country. Boot/is Theatre, corner of 23rd Street and 6th Avenue, re- cently completed, is an elegant structure, with sittings for 2,500 persons. The Shakeperian Drama is produced at this theatre in a style unsurpassed by any other theatre in the Union. The French Opera House is on West Fourteenth Street, near Sixth Avenue. Among the other dramatic institutions of the city, the best conducted and the best worthy of patronage are the Fifth Ave- nue {Brougham's), in 24th Street ; Niblo's, under the Metro- politan Hotel, Broadway, between Prince and Houston ; and Wallack's, at the corner of Broadway and Thirteenth Street. At Wallack's, the old-school comedies are rendered in a style unequalled by any other theatre in the country. The Olympic Theatre is in Broadway, between Houston and Bleecker xvi INTRODUCTION. streets ; Wood's Museum and Theatre is on Broadway, at the corner of 30th Street. The Old Bowery Theatre, in the Bowery, near Canal Street, occupies a site upon which three theatres have been successively burnt and rebuilt. The performances here are spectacular and highly sensational. The Stadt Theatre (German Opera) is also in the Bowery, nearly opposite the Old Bowery Theatre. The New York Circus, and the Tammany (Dramatic and Terpsichorean and Acrobatic performances), are on East Fourteenth Street, be- tween Irving Place and 3d Avenue. The Waverley Theatre, 720 Broadway. The Theatre Comique (Lingard's), 514 Broadway. Bryant's Hall (Minstrels), 14th Street, near 3d Avenue. Apollo ^//(Miscellaneous), Broadway and 28th Street. San Francisco Minstrels, 585 Broadway. Central Park Garden, 7th Avenue and 58th Street. The hour of commencement at the most of these establish- ments is 8 o'clock. Matinees during the season at the lead- ing houses, every Saturday, at 2 p. M. Seats at the opera and at the leading theatres can be engaged at the principal hotels and Broadway music stores. PARKS, SQUARES, ETC. New York has fourteen public grounds known as parks or squares. Of these by far the largest and most frequented is the Central Park. This magnificent public ground is situated on the eastern slope of an elevated ridge, extending along the western side of the island, in the upper part of the city, between the Fifth and the Eighth Avenues, east and west, and Fifty-ninth and One Hundred and Tenth streets, south and north. It embraces an area of 843 acres, extending INTRODUCTION. xvii about two and a half miles in length by nearly half a mile in ■ breadth. The ordinance creating the Commissioners of the Central Park was passed May 19, 1856, and the surveys were begun early in June following. The Park is divided into three sec- tions of unequal extent, known as the Lower, Central, and Upper Parks. The Lower Park contains an area of 336 acres, and extends from Fifty-ninth to Seventy-ninth streets. This was the first improved portion of the grounds, and may very properly '~>e regarded as the park proper. The Old and New Reservoirs occupy a considerable portion of the central division of the grounds. Above the reservoirs, reaching to One Hundred and Tenth Street, is the section popularly known as the Upper Park. This, though little im- proved, has greater natural attractions than any other por- tion of the park, and will, in the course of a few years, be the most frequented. The whole cost of the park, ir.r^'^'ng the purchase of the grounds, thus far, has been upward of ten millions of dollars. The attendance has been large, and is steadily increasing. In 1862, upward of four millions of people visited it ; in 1S63, four and a half millions ; in 1864, nearly six millions ; and in 1868, upward of ten millions. The number of carriages which entered the gates during the last year were 1,748,161. The best point at which to enter the park on foot is at ^ixth Avenue and Fifty-ninth Street. The chief carriage entrance is at Fifth Avenue and Fifty-ninth Street ; but the stranger visiting Central Park will have no difficulty in reach- ing the park from almost any direction. Gateways for the four entrances on Fifty-ninth Street are about to be erected, from designs by Hunt. The park is open every day in the xviii INTRODUCTION. year — during the winter and spring months from 6 to 9 o'clock, and in the skating season till midnight. During July, August, and September, from 5 a. m. to 11 p. m. The Old and New Reservoirs constitute prominent features of the Park. The former is 1,826 feet in length and 835 feet wide, and has a capacity of 150,000,000 gallons. The latter, constructed at the time of the park, is a gigantic work, and, considered in connection with the Croton Aqueduct and the admirable water system of New York, is worthy the attention of every stranger. The area of this vast basin is 106 acres, and its capacity over 1,000,000,000 gallons. The nearest ap- proach is by the gates at Ninetieth and Ninety-sixth streets, on the Fifth Avenue. The summit of the reservoir walls serves as a pleasant promenade, and commands a fine view. The gate-houses are massive structures of stone. The Lakes are among the most attractive features of the Park ; they are five in number, and embrace an area of 43^ acres. The largest is a beautiful sheet of water, lying between Seventy-second and Seventy-ninth streets. Pleasure boats are kept for hire. Some fine specimens of native and imported swans are to be seen on the lake. In the skating season it is resorted to by thousands of both sexes. The Marble Arch is a fine structure, near the lower end of the Park, and not far from the Mall. The Mall, a quarter of a mile in length, and covered with a beautiful growth of grass, furnishes a delight- ful promenade. At the upper extremity of the Mall is the Music Pavilion. On band days (Wednesdays and Satur- days, 3.30 to 5 o'clock P. M.) the attendance in this part of the grounds is unusually large and brilliant. West of the Mall, and between it and the Drive, stand the oak and elm planted by the Prince of Wales, in i860. Descending from the Terrace, which forms the upper part INTRODUCTION. xix of the Mall, and the plateau which it traverses, the visitor is conducted by a flight of stairs to the Lake. The Ramble, covering an area of 36 acres of sloping hills, extends from the Old Reservoir to Central Lake. It abounds in pleasant shady walks, and is much frequented b) r Park vis- itors. The Stone Arch, on the western slope of the Ramble, is much admired. The Cave and the Tunnel ate also objects of interest. The Museum is contained in a castellated structure for- merly occupied as a State arsenal, near Fifth Avenue and Sixty-fourth Street. The art collection is small, but of much promise. Here, during the winter months, are housed the few animals which it is intended will form the nucleus of a future Zoological Garden. The Green, Play-grouna, Dovecot, and the Knoll, are all frequented spots in the Park. The elevation of the last named point is 137 feet above tide- water in the river. It is said to be the highest ground in the Park, and commands a fine view of it. The Refectory, in the Lower Park, near the Mall, is a pleasant place to sojourn a while after a stroll or drive through the Park. If the keepers would improve their cuisine and keep better fare, they would render it still more pleasant. The Boulevard Drive, when finished, will be one of the great features of Central Park. It will extend northward from the Park five miles to King's Bridge, on Spuyten Duyvel Creek. To those visiting the Park during the winter months, the road traversing the western side of the Middle Park, between Seventy-second and One Hundred and Second streets, known as the Winter Drive, will be found very attractive. Mc- Goivans Pass, the Bluff, the Arboretum, and the Nursery, are all reached at the upper or northern extremity of the ground. The grounds, as at present laid out, embrace 10 miles of xx INTRODUCTION. carriage road, 6 miles of finished bridle road, and upward of 30 miles of gravel walk. The stranger who visits Central Park will care little for the older, but less known and popular, public grounds and squares. The Battery, at the extreme south end of Manhattan Island, contains 10 acres, and commands a fine view of the Bay and islands. Castle Garden, on the Battery, was at one time a popular public hall. Here Jenny Lind first sang in America. It is now used for the purposes of the Board of Emigration. The Bowling Green, so called from its use prior to the Revolution, is situated at the intersection of Broadway with Battery Street. It is of an oval form, and surrounded by an iron railing. It is the oldest public ground in the city, hav- ing served as the Dutch parade-ground and market-place. It was enclosed in 1732. The City Park is a triangular enclosure of 10 acres, and contains the old and new City Halls, County Court-House, and other municipal buildings. Washington Square. — Fourth Street and Waverley Place. New York University. Union Square is bounded by Broadway, Fourth Avenue, and 14th and 17th streets. The equestrian statue of Wash- ington, on this square, is considered the finest in the Union. Stuyvesant Square. — Second Avenue, 15th and 17th streets. Gramercy Park. — 20th Street, between Third and Fourth avenues. Madison Square. — Broadway, Fifth Avenue and 23rd Street. Hamilton Square. — Third Avenue, 66th and 69th streets. Tompkins Square is between Avenues A and B, and 7th and 10th streets. INTRODUCTION. xxi PIERS AND LANDINGS. Frequent delays and much consequent vexation and incon- venience will be saved the tourist around New York, by a proper acquaintance with the location of the numerous piers, and steamboat and ferry landings. Of the former there are 1 1 2 in all, which are pretty evenly divided between the North and East rivers. The following table is so arranged as to serve the two-fold purpose of a pier and cross-town street direc- tor) 7 . LOCATION OF PIERS. NORTH RIVER. I, Battery Place. 2 & 3, Battery Place and Morris Street. 4, Morris Street. 5, 6, & 7, Morris and Rector Streets. 8, Rector Street. 9 & 10, Rector and Carlisle Streets. 11, Carlisle Street. 12, Albany Street. 13, Albany and Cedar Streets. 14, Cedar Street. 15, Liberty Street. 16, Liberty and Cortlandt Streets. 17 & 18, Cortlandt Street. 19, Cortlandt and Dey Streets < 20, Dey Street, EAST RIVER. i & 2, Whitehall Street. 3, Moore Street. 4, Moore and Broad Streets. 5, Broad Street and Coenties Slip. 6, 7, & 8, Coenties Slip. 9 & 10, Coenties & Old Slip. 11 & 12, Old Slip. 13, Old Slip & Gouverneur la. 14, Jones Lane. 15 & 16, Wall Street. 17, Pine Street. 18, Maiden Lane. 19, Fletcher Street. 20 & 21, Burling Slip. 22, Fulton Street. 23, Beekman Street. 24, Beekman and Peck Slip. 25 & 26, Peck Slip. XX11 INTRODUCTION. 21 22 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 5o 51 NORTH RIVER. Fulton Street. 23 & 24, Fulton and Vesey Streets. Vesey Street. Vesey and Barclay Streets. Robinson Street. Murray Street. Warren Street. Chambers Street. Duane Street. Duane and Jay Streets. Jay Street. Harrison Street. Franklin Street. North Moore. Beach Street. Hubert Street. Vestry Street. Watts Street. Hoboken Street. Canal Street. Spring Street. Spring and Charlton Sts. Charlton Street. King Street. West Houston Street. Clarkson Street. Leroy Street. Morton Street, Christopher Street. EAST RIVER. 27, Dover Street. 28, Dover and Roosevelt Sts. 29, Roosevelt Street. 30, Roosevelt St. and James Slip. 31 & 32, James Slip. 33, Oliver Street. 34 & 35, Catharine Street. 36, Catharine and Market Streets. 37 & 38, Market Street. 39, Market and Pike Streets. 40 & 41, Pike Street. 42, Pike and Rutgers Streets. 43 & 44, Rutgers Street. 45, Rutgers and Jefferson Sts. 46, Jefferson Street. 47, Jefferson and Clinton Sts. 48, Clinton Street. 49, Clinton and Montgomery Streets. 50, Montgomery Street. 51 & 52, Gouverneur Street. 53, Jackson Street. 54, Orleans Street. 55, Cherry Street. 56 & 57, Broome Street. 58 & 59, Delancy Street. 60, Rivington Street. 61, Rivington and Stanton Sts INTRODUCTION. xxiii FERRIES. There are thirty-four ferry lines making regular trips be- tween New York and adjacent landings. Of these, twenty- three ply on the East, and eleven on the North River. TO FROM Astoria Fulton Street. Brooklyn, Atlantic Street (So. Fer.). Whitehall Street. " Bridge Street James Slip. " Division Avenue Grand Street. " " " Roosevelt Street. 11 Fulton Street Fulton Street. " Grand Street Grand Street. " " Houston Street. " Greenpoint Tenth Street. " " 23d Street, East River. " Hamilton Avenue Battery. " Hudson Avenue Jackson Street. " Hunter's Point James' Slip. " " 34th Street, East River. " Montague Street Wall Street. " Main Street Catharine Street. Blackwell's Island 61st Street, East River. Elizabethport Liberty Street. Fort Lee Pier No. 51, North River. Hoboken Barclay Street. Christopher Street. Harlem Peck Slip. Jersey City Desbrosses Street. Central R. R. of N. J. . .Liberty Street. " Erie R. R Chambers Street. " Long Dock, N. J " " New Jersey R. R Cortlandt Street. XXIV INTRODUCTION. TO FROM Mott Haven. Peck Slip. Staten Island, North Shore Pier No 19, North River. " New Brighton } " Stapleton - Whitehall Street. " Vanderbilt's Landing ' Ward's Island East 110th Street. Weehawken, N. J West 42d Street. TABLE OF DISTANCES. STREET. MILES. To Leonard £ " Canal \ " Spring £ " Houston 1 " 4th ij " 9th i-J- " 14th if " 19th 2 " 24th 2\ " 29th 1\ FROM CITY HALL. STREET. MILES. To 34th 2f 38th 44th 49th 54th 58th 63d. 68th 73d- 78th ■3 •3i ■3* •31 •4 •4i ■4i •4f ■5 STREET. MILES. To8 3 d 5i 88th 5i 93d 5l 97th 6 io2d 6£ 107th 6| 112th 6f 117th 7 121st 7i 126th 7i LIBRARIES AND READING-ROOMS. The first public library was established in 1700. The city now possesses upward of thirty public libraries and read- ing-rooms. The Astor, Lafayette Place ; hours 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. The Mercantile, Eighth Street, near Broadway; 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. (Reading-Room.) The New York Society,^ University Place; 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Reading-room (a member's introduction is required). University, Washington Square and Waverley Place. INTRODUCTION. . xxv The Historical, 2d Avenue and nth Street; 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. The Apprentices, 472 Broadway ; 9 A.M. to 9 p.m. American Institute, 21 and 23 Cooper Institute, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Cooper Institute, 3d and 4th Avenues, and Astor Place. (Reading-room.) American Geographical and Statistical, Cooper Institute, 2d floor. Columbia College Library, 50th Street, near 5th Avenue. City Library, Room 12, City Hall. Law Lnstitute, 41 Chambers Street. Young Mens Christian, 76 Varick Street ; 8 A.M. to 10 P.M. Union Theological Seminary, 9 University Place. ART SOCIETIES AND GALLERIES. The National Academy of Design — the chief art institution of America — was founded in 1S26, since which time it has steadily advanced in influence and usefulness. It stands at the corner of Fourth Avenue and Twenty-third Street, front- ing on the latter. The front is constructed of Westchester County marble, banded with greyu^acke ; is in the Gothic style of architecture of the thirteenth century, and presents a unique and pleasing appearance. The main gates and ex- ternal ornamental iron-work are generally admired. No paint is used on the woodwork of the building. The grand stair- way leading to the art galleries is of solid oak, trimmed with walnut. Besides the central hall, picture galleries, and sculpture room, which are in the third story, it contains lec- ture, reading, library, and council rooms. It was erected in 1863, under the superintendence of P. B. Wright, architect, and cost $150,000. It numbers among its academicians and associates nearly all of the eminent artists of the city and xxvi * INTRODUCTION. vicinity. Annual exhibitions of the Academy are held in April, May, June, and July, closing on the 4th of the last- named month. Admission, twenty-five cents. The Artists' Fund Society, founded in 1859, makes an an- nual exhibition and sale of works of art, in the months of November and December, in the Academy Building. The Artists' Studio Building \s at No. 51 Tenth Street, near the Sixth Avenue. Dodworth's, 212 Fifth Avenue, Madison Square, is another famous resort of the knights of the easel, and so too is the University in Washington Park. Free Galleries for the exhibition and sale of works of Art, are to be found at Goupil's (M. Knoedler), late of 722 Broad- way, corner of Ninth Street, and now at 170 Fifth Avenue, corner of 22d Street ; at Schaus's No. 749 Broadway ; Sned- ecor's, 768 Broadway. Goupil's is now in the twenty-third year of its establishment in New York. The collection of eno-ravings embraces some from the best masters. The lead- ino- photographic galleries are Gumey's, on Fifth Avenue, at the intersection of 16th Street, and Sarony's, 680 Broadway. No lover of the photographic art — no one who wants a good picture (and who does not?) should omit visiting the elegant galleries of the Messrs. Gurney {pere et fits), which occupy the whole upper portion of the late handsome residence, No. 108 Fifth Avenue. Gurney's pictures are executed in the highest style of photographic art. There is a free exhibition of pictures from 10 A. M. to 5 P. M. Brady, on Broadway, at the corner of Ninth Street, makes good pictures. EXPRESS COMPANIES. Adams' 59 Broadway ; Spring and Broadway. American 115 Broadway ; 61 Hudson Street. American-European 72 Broadway. INTRODUCTION. xxvu A storia and Ravenswood ¥/■ 117 John Sti eet. Bergen 73 Cortlandt Street. Brooklyn and New York (Simonson's). .71 Cortlandt Street. City (Bogardus) 67 Franklin Street. Denning's Pier 30, N. R. Dodd's foot Cortlandt, and 280 Canal Street. East New York 117 John Street. Fort Washington and Carmansville 280 Canal Street. Flushing (Lawrence's). 180 South Street. Flatbush (Smith's) 117 John Street. General Express Office 88 Franklin Street. Gowanus 117 John Street. Greenpoint 12 Vesey Street. Hamden's 280 Canal, and 65 Broadway. Hemingway's Baggage Express 309 West Street. Hempstead and Jamaica 117 John Street. Hoboken (Merchant's) 222 Greenwich Street. Hope 59 Broadway. Hudson City and Waverley 66 Cortlandt Street. Jamaica 117 John Street. Kennedy's City 47 John Street. Kinsley & Co. Express. . . 72 Broadway and 280 Canal Street. Knickerbocker. 114 Reade Street. Long Island Express Co foot James Slip. Manhattanville (Rowden). 280 Canal Street. Nassau • 30 Broadway. Metropolitan Fur. & Baggage Ex. 140 Varick Street. Morrisania Express. J 117 John Street. National Express Co 65 Broadway, and 280 Canal Street. New Haven Trans K Co 18 West Broadway. New Jersey Express Co foot Cortlandt Street. Orange TI 7 John Street. xxviii INTRODUCTION. Paterson Express Co 187 Chambers Street. People's (J. B. Wass) 72 Broad Staten Island (North Shore) Pier 19, N. R. Studley's 4U1 Ave. & 27th Street. Trader's Express Co 8 Park Place. U. S. Express 82 Broadway. Williamsburg 280 Canal Street. Yonkers (Riker's) 88 Franklin and 117 John Street. Yorkville and Harlem 280 Canal Street. TELEGRlPil COMPANIES. American 125 Broadway. [ United States. .117 Broadway Erie Railroad, .foot Duane st. West'n Union. 145 Broadway People's. 21 Wall & 25 Wm.st There are branch offices in all the principal hotels in the city. RATE OF CHARGES. To 10 words. Every extra word. To 10 words. Every extra word. Halifax $3 50.21 cents. Montreal 1 10. 7 " San Francisco 7 45.57 " Boston. . . .$0 60. . . 5 cents. Chicago. . . 2 05 ... 14 " Cincinnati. I 90...13 " Hartford . . 45 ... 4 " No charges are made for the signature or address. An additional charge of ten cents is made for the delivery of messages to private residences in the city. FIRST-CLASS BUSINESS HOUSES. In the hurry and bustle incident to a short visit to New York, patrons of the Guide will find the following directory of first-class business houses very useful : INTRODUCTION. xxix The leading business thoroughfares of New York, Broad- way, Canal Street, and the Bowery, are famous for the fine stores they contain. Banking Houses. — Duncan, Sherman & Co., corner Pine and Nassau, and Brown Brothers, 59 Wall Street. Travel- ers desiring letters of credit, foreign or domestic exchange, will find these desirable houses to deal with. Newspapers. — The magnificent printing establishments of the New York Herald, the Times, the Tribtine, the Sun, and Bonner's Ledger, are well worth seeing. Publishing Houses. — Those of the Messrs. Appleton, 90, 92, and 94 Grand Street, and the extensive establishment of the Harpers, in Franklin Square, will each well reward a visit. Jewellers, etc. — The establishments of Tiffany & Co., 550 Broadway, and of Ball, Black & Co., corner of Broadway and Prinee Street, are the finest and most extensive of their kind in the country. Dry-Goods. — The great dry-goods palaces of A. T. Stewart & Co., Broadway, corner of 10th, of Lord & Taylor, 461 Broadway, and 259 Grand Street, and of H. B. Claf- lin & Co., 140 Church Street ; of Arnold, Constable & Co., and of James McCreery & Co., recently opened in Broadway, should not be omitted by those who would judge of the city's trade. Piano-fortes. — Weber has just opened his fine sales-room on Fifth Avenue, at the intersection of 16th Street. Weber's Grand, Square and Upright Pianos have no superior in the country. Steinway & Sons, 71 E. Fourteenth Street. Rubber fabrics— The N. Y. Belting and Packing Co., 37 and 38 Park Row. Fire Insurance. — The Home Insurance Company, 135 Broadway, and the North American, 114 Broadway, are xxx INTRODUCTION. among the oldest and most reliable companies in New York. Life Insurance.—^. Y. Mutual, 114 Broadway; Mutual, 144 and 146 Broadway; Empire Mutual, 139 Broadway; and Continental, 22, 24, and 26 Nassau Street. Clothing. — Mr. D. Russell, at 835 Broadway, corner of Thirteenth: Street, has the latest fashions for gentlemen's custom-work.. The goods made up by Russell are bought and imported direct from the best manufacturers in Europe, under his. own. personal supervision. Trunks. ^Mf..J r R. Gillmore, 24 Fourth Avenue, manu- factures the best of trunks, and is the sole agent for the sale of House's Patent India Rubber Shields, which, when attach- ed to trunks, is a great preventive of baggage smashing. Gentlemen's Clothing and Furnishing.— Brooks Broth- ers' magnificent new store, on Union Square, contains the largest arid-most varied assortment of every thing in the way of gentlemen's! clothing. Landscape and Marine. Glasses for travelers.— The best as- sortment ;6f a first-rate quality are to be found at Semmons > 687, late qf 6604, Broadway. Fumitwvihnd: Housekeeping Articles.— (Late J. & C. Ber- rian), 601 Broadway. Art' Materials and Picture Galleries.— Gondii & Co. (M. Knoedler* -successor) ■ Schaus, 749 Broadway. Billiard. Tables. ,-^Phelan & Collender, in Broadway, be- tween WaverTey and Clinton places. Among -the .'.most prominent and noteworthy objects of commercial interest on Broadway, are the extensive clothing and furnishing houses of Messrs. Brooks Brothers, Union Square, and Devlin & Co., and the extensive China-ware es- tablishment of Messrs. Haughwout, at the N. E. corner of Broome Street- THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. ROUTE 1. Up The Hudson. LACE aux Fleuve ! The Noble River ! As well visit Naples and forget Vesuvius, or go to Rome and not see St. Peter's, as to come to New York and fail to voyage up the Hudson. What the Thames above Westminster is to the Lon- doner, or the Seine is to the Parisian, the Hudson— only on a much grander and more impressive scale — is to the deni- zens of our growing metropolis. No more lovely waterway in the wide world than this. European travelers are never tired of comparing it with the Rhine ; but, indeed, there are but few points of resemblance between the two rwers. The beauties of the Hudson are those of Nature, and not antiquity, as is the case with its famous Old World rival. As the author of the " Book of the Hudson" has well remarked, the past has left scarcely a record upon the shores of this river ; it is full of the living present, illustrating by its general aspect the 6 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. free thought and free action which are giving strength and solidity to the young and vigorous nation within whose bosom its bright waters flow. What serves to render this trip doubly delightful to the tourist and pleasure seeker, are the unrivaled facilities for travel which it presents. The great size and beauty of the hoats navigating it, and the convenience, comfort, and luxury of their appointments, all equally astonish and delight the traveler, and furnish matter for pleasant wonder and study whenever the opportunity is offered amid the more pressing attractions on the way. Those wishing to note the beauties of the river, should, of course, take the day-boats. Let us then start as the morn- ing sun is falling upon the thousand sail which fill the beauti- ful harbor of New York. Scarcely have our eyes taken in half the beauties of this superb panorama — the roofs, and spires, and domes of the great metropolis on one side ; Jersey City upon the opposite shore ; the fortresses of Governor's, Bedloe's, and Ellis's Islands, and of Fort Hamilton ; the shores of Long Island, and the villa banks of Staten Island beyond, with the far-off perspective of the hill-bound " Nar- rows " — before we must turn our backs upon it all, to gaze upon the yet more charming scenes which are presented to us as our steamer ploughs the river northward. On we sail, past the streets and wharves of the city, which seem interminable in succession ; but our eyes fall upon the wooded shores at last, upon elegant country villas peeping out from among the trees on the one hand, and the tall cliffs of the far-reaching Palisades on the other. The wilderness of brick and stone fades away, and is forgotten in the pres- ence of green fields and rustling woods. Even the suburban charms of Hoboken, and the precipices of Weehawken, with UP THE HUDSON. 7 its grave and memories of the unfortunate Hamilton, give place, in our esteem, to the more rural landscape upon which we now enter. Let us glance as closely as our rapid flight will permit, at each passing village, city, and scene. First come The Palisades. — These grand precipices, rising to the hight of 500 feet, follow in unbroken line as far as that great bay of the river called the Tappan Zee, a distance of 20 miles. They do not wholly terminate, however, until we reach Haverstraw, 36 miles from New York. The rock is trap, columnar in formation, something after the fashion of the famous Giant's Causeway and Fingal's Cave. They lend great beauty to the picture as we start upon our journey, and to all the pictures of the river, of which they form a part. Guttenburg, opposite 70th Street, is a recent German settlement overlooking the river, famous for its extensive brewery. Bull's Ferry, opposite 90th Street, now lies upon our left. It is a favorite summer resort and residence of New Yorkers. In the hot months, the ferry-boats, continually ply- ing thither, at a fare of only \i\ cents, are thronged with pas- sengers. Blooniingdale, a suburban village five miles from the City Hall, is now upon our right. The Orphan Asylum, Audubon Park, and Trinity Church Cemetery, in the neigh- borhood of Washington Hights, will repay a visit. Fort IjCC, ten miles up the river, and opposite 160th Street, New York, now recalls us to the western shore. It crowns the lofty brows of the Palisades, which are here 300 feet high. Some interesting memories of the days of the American Revolution are awakened here. The anxious thoughts of Washington and his generals turned to thw 8 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. point in that eventful period. A fortification here stood up- on the hights, which was called Mount Constitution ; and here it was attempted, by the express command of Congress, to obstruct the navigation of the river, by every art and at whatever expense, " as well to prevent the egress of the enemy's frigates, lately gone up, as to hinder them from receiv- ing succors." A large force of Americans, in retreating from Fort Lee, were overpowered, and either slain or taken prisoners by a greatly superior body of Hessian troops. The Northern Railway of New Jersey connects Fort Lee with Englewood and Piermont. The Palisade House, at Engle- wood, offers good accommodations for visitors. Fort Washington, another spot of deep historical in- terest, stands on a steep projecting cliff, between 181st and 185th Streets, nearly opposite to Fort Lee, and io£ miles from the City Hall. Like that locality, it reminds us of the most try- ing hours of the trying times in American story. It fell into the hands of the enemy, November 16th, 1776, and the garri- son of 3,000 men became prisoners of war. Two days after, November 18th, Lord Cornwallis, with 6,000 men, crossed the river, at Dobb's Ferry, and attacked Fort Lee. The garrison there, then commanded by General Greene, made a hasty retreat to the encampment of the main army, under Washington, five miles back, at Hackensack. All the bag- gage and stores fell into the hands of the enemy. Had the English general followed up his successes at this period with proper celerity and energy, he would most likely have effectually crippled the American army. The fort was a strong earthwork of irregular form, covering several acres. Some 20 heavy cannons, besides smaller arms, bristled upon its walls, though its strength lay chiefly in its position. The very spot where the old fort once stood, as well as all the region UP THE HUDSON. 9 round, is now covered by the peaceful and fragrant lawns and gardens of elegant villa residences. Just below the high ground once occupied by Fort Washington, Washing- ton Hights, and close by the river, is the promontory of Jeffrey's Hook. A redoubt was constructed here as a cov- ering to the chevaux-de-frise in the channel. The banks of this work are still plainly to be seen. Above Fort Wash- ington, and still upon the eastern side of the river, was Fort Tryon. The site now lies between 195th and igSth Streets, New York. Not far beyond, is the northern boundary of Manhattan Island — the little waters, famous in history and story, as Spuyten Duyvel Creek.* Hard by (217th Street) was a redoubt of two guns, called Cock Hill Fort ; and upon Tetard's Hill, across the creek, was Fort Independence, a square redoubt with bastions. There was still another military work here, strengthened by the British in 1781, and named Fort Prince. The upper end of the island of New York, where we have lingered so long, is rich in scenes and memories of interest ; and the beautiful landscape is yet embellished by abundant traces of its early history. A pleasant visit may be made from the Hights to the High Bridge, to Morris House, and to the Grange, the house of Gen. Alexander Hamilton, which stands on the Kingsbridge Road, midway between Harlem and Croton rivers. Yonkers. — Hotel : Getty House, W. H. Doty, proprie- tor. Yonkers, 17 miles up the North river, is an ancient set- tlement at the mouth of the Neperah, or Saw Mill River. Since the opening of the railway, it has become a fashiona- * This name is derived from the famous attempt of Stuyvesant's trumpeter. Antony Van Corlear, to swim across it — En Spuyten Duyvel — " in spite of the devil." 10 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. ble suburban town of New York, as the short distance thence permits pleasant, speedy, and cheap transport by land or water. Yonkers was the home of the once famous family of the Phillippses, of which was Mary Phillipps, the first love of General Washington. The family exercised manorial rule in the neighborhood, and their ancient mansion, erected 1682, and 1745, and now occupied by the Hon. W. W. Woodworth, is the chief attraction of the place. East of the Manor-house is Locust Hill, where the American troops were encamped in 1781. Near the vil- lage is the spot where Colonel Gist was attacked (1778) by a combined force under Tarleton and others. In 1777 a naval action occurred in front of Yonkers, between the American gun-boats and the British frigates Ross and Phoenix. Mr. Frederic Cozzens, the writer, resides at Yonkers, and some pleasant reminiscences of his home may be found in his genial " Sparrowgrass " papers. Font Hill— Academy of Mount §t. Vincent. The " Castle " of Mr. Edwin Forest, known as Fonthill, built in 1838, is just below Yonkers, and two and a half miles north of Spuyten Duyvel Creek. It is now, together with a larger and more imposing edifice, owned and occupied by the Roman Catholic Convent and Academy of Mount St. Vincent. Hastings, three miles north of Yonkers, is a thriving little village ; the vicinityxontains many beautiful residences. The Palisades here recede from view on the opposite shore. I>0»to's Ferry, two miles yet beyond, and still upon the eastern bank of the river, is an ancient settlement, with a new leaven of metropolitan life, like all the places within an hour or two's journey from New York. The village has a UP THE HUDSON. H pleasant air, lying along the river slope, at the mouth of the Wisquaqua Weec-ques-quck Creek. Its name is that of an old family which once possessed the region and established a ferry. Remains of military works still exist at Dobb's Ferry. The Livingstone Mansion, famous as the place where Wash- ington in 1783 met Governor Clinton and Sir Guy Carle- ton, to confer about the evacuation of New York, is the main point of attraction. Zion Church is an old and inter- esting edifice. Irvington and " Sunnyside."— Irvington, four miles above, on the right bank, was once called Dearman, and it was expected to grow into a large town, as an outlet of the great Erie Railway, which touches the river opposite at Piermont ; but the Erie travel was afterward led to the metropolis through another terminus at Jersey City, and so Irvington is little more thar a railway station to this day. Dearman was rechristened Irvington, in honor of the late Washington Irving, whose unique little cottage of Sunnyside is close by, upon the margin of Wolfert Acker's Rust, 3 miles below Tarrytown, hidden from the eye of the traveler only by the dense growth of the surrounding trees and shrubbery. It is a pretty stone cottage, the eastern side embowered in ivy, the earlier slips of which were presented to Irving by Sir Walter Scott, at Abbotsford, and were planted by Irving himself. Piermont, on the opposite (western) shore, is the freight terminus of the Erie Railway. The river is here 3 miles wide, and forms what is known as Tappan Zee. The pier projects into the river a distance of one mile, and marks the northern boundary of New Jersey. The view of the river at this point presents a fine picture. Cedar Hill Cottage, the residence of Mr. Lewis Gaylord Clark, crowns an eminence near Piermont. The house wa? 12 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. originally built by one Woolfert Acker, an original New Yorker, who inscribed over his door his Dutch motto, "Just in Rust." It was thence called " Woolfert's Rust," since corrupted into "Woolfert's Roost." Between Irvington and Dobb's Ferry, is Nevis, once the homestead of Col. James Hamilton. It contains many reminiscences of Hamil- ton, among which is Washington's last portrait, by Stuart. The residences of Mr. Williams, Mr. Jaffray, and Mr. Cottinet, in this neighborhood, are much admired. Mr. Cottinet's residence, built of Caen stone, in the French style, is one of the handsomest mansions on the river. Three miles out of Piermont is Tappan, interesting as having been one of the chief of Washington's headquarters during the Revolution, and as the spot also where Major Andre was imprisoned and executed. The home of the Commander-in-Chief, and the jail of the ill-fated officer, are still in good preservation, though the latter house has been somewhat modified in its interior arrangements of late years, to suit its present occupancy as a tavern, under the style and title of the "'Seventy-six Stone-House." The old Dutch Church, in which Andre was tried, stood near by ; but it was torn down in 1836, and a new structure reared upon its site. The spot where the execution took place (October 2, 1780) is within a short walk of the Old Stone-House, in which the prisoner was confined. Nyaclfc, once famous for its quarries of red sandstone, is on the west side of the river, above Piermont. The Smith- sonian House is open to visitors. Rockland Lake, famous for its winter crops of ice, is within easy drive of Nyack. Oak Hill Cemetery is a pretty spot, in view from the river. Tarrytown, 20 miles from New York, is a prosperous little town on the eastern bank of the Hudson, connected UP THE HUDSON. 13 with Nyack by ferry. It is the principal point of departure for the region rendered classic by Irving, and thence many a a pleasing pilgrimage is made. A short distance u»p the Pocanteco is the quiet little valley of Sleepy Hollow, the scene of some of Irving's happiest fan- cies. CarTs Mill and the bridge over the brook are still standing. The principal objects of interest in the village are those connected with Irving's life and memory, the Old Dutch Church, and near by St. Mark's, better known as the Memorial Church, the corner-stone of which was laid July 4, 1866. It stands on Broadway, where Ichabod Crane, the village schoolmaster, encountered the "headless horseman," and but a few yards from the spot where Andre was cap- tured. It is in contemplation to place a marble statue of Irving in the vestibule of the church. His grave is behind the old church, and in full view of the noble river. During the Revolution, Tarrytown witnessed many stormy fights between those lawless and marauding bands of both British and Americans, known as " Skinners " and " Cow- boys." It was upon a spot now in the heart of Tarrytown that Major Andre was arrested while returning to the British lines, after a visit to General Arnold. A simple monument — an obelisk of granite — now marks the spot, his remains having been removed to Westminster Abbey in 1821. At Greensburg, three miles east of Tarrytown, is a monument to Isaac Van Wart, one of the captors, who died in 1828. Sing Sing, 33 miles. — Hotel: American House. — Sing Sing is on the right bank, and in its acclivitous topography, upon a slope of 200 feet, it makes a fine appearance from the water. The greatest breadth of the Hudson, nearly four miles, is at this point. Many fine country-seats crown the hights of this pleasant village. It is distinguished for its 14 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. educational establishments ; for its vicinage to the mouth of the Croton River, from whence the city of New York derives jts abundant supply of water ; and for being the seat of the State Prison. The name is derived from an Indian word,, meaning " Strong Place." The Croton enters the Hudson two miles above the vil- lage, where its artificial passage to the metropolis is begun. The great aqueduct at this point is especially interesting,. D eing carried over the Sing Sing Hill by an arch of stone masonry, 88 feet between the abutments, and ioo feet above the water. It was commenced in 1835, and the entire work completed in 1842, at a cost of $14,000,000. The State Prison is located on the banks of the Hudson, nearly three-quarters of a mile south of the village. The buildings are large structures, erected by the convicts them- selves, with material from the marble and limestone quarries which abound here, and which many of them are continually employed in working. The prisons form three sides of a square. The main edifice is 484 feet long, 44 feet wide, and five stories high, with cells for 1,000 occupants, 869 of which were filled in 1852. In 1861 over 1,300 were confined here. The female prisoners are lodged in a fine edifice, some 30 or 40 rods east of the male department. The prisoners are guarded by sentinels, instead of being Inclosed by walls.. The whole area covered by the establishment is about 130 acres. The railway passes through and beneath the prisons,, but from the river they are seen to advantage. Croton (Teller's) Point, a prominent headland dividing Haverstraw Bay from the Tappan Zee, four miles above Sing Sing, is noteworthy for its famous lake, which supplies the metropolis with water. The dam is 250 feet long, 40 feet high, and 70 feet thick at the base. The capacity of the lake UP THE HUDSON. 15 is 500,000,000 gallons, and it .discharges 40,000,000 to 60,000,000 daily. Dr. Underbill's graperies are worth seeing. Verdrieteges' Hook, opposite Sing Sing, is a com- manding hight, with such a deceptive appearance, viewed from the river above and below, of a grand headland, that it has been christened Point-no-Point. Upon this mountain summit lies Rockland Lake. (See JVyack.) Haverstraiv, 36 miles, is also on the west side, one mile from the river. It is a pleasant and prosperous place, with attractive scenery. VerpUincK s Point, on the east side, is the spot at which Hendrick Hudson's ship, the Half Moon, first came ta anchor after leaving the mouth of the river. Three miles above is Stony Point, the site of a fort during the Revolution. This fort was stormed and carried by General Wayne, July 16, 1779. The present light-house and bell-tower mark the site of the magazine of the old fort, and being objects of much interest, are always pointed out. Half way between the Point and Haverstraw may still be seen the house where Arnold and Andre met and consulted. It is of stone, with a. piazza in front, and stands on the hill-side beyond the fiats. The creek which winds through the marsh, south of Ver- planck's Point, as afterward the peninsula itself, was called Meahagh by the Indians. Stephen Van Cortland purchased it of them in 1683, and it passed from his possession into that of his son, whose only daughter and heiress married Philip Verplanck, from whom its present name. Topographically, Verplanck's Point may be described as a peninsula, gradu- ally rising from a gentle surface, until it terminates in the river in a bold bluff of from 40 to 50 feet elevation. A small fortification, called Fort Fayette, once existed at the westera 1(J THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. extremity of Verplanck's Point, many remains of which are yet distinctly visible. This fort, and that of Stony Point, op- posite, were taken by the English under Sir Henry Clinton, June i, 1779. Peekskill, 42 miles, is one of the most interesting places on the Hudson. It is near the mouth of the Peekskill or Annsville Creek, which enters the Hudson a short dis- tance above. The town was settled by John Peck,. in 1764, an early Dutch navigator of the Hudson, who, as popular tradition runs, mistaking this creek for a continuation of the main stream, ran his boat ashore, and commenced the future town. Population 3,000. In the Cortlandville Cemetery, two miles north of the village, is a marble monument to John Paulding. Pursuing our voyage up-river, we now enter Haverstraw Bay, the second of the great extensions of the Hudson, and the commencement of the magnificent scenery of the High- lands. On our left rises the rugged front of the Dunderberg Mountain, at whose base the little hamlet and landing of Caldwell are nestled ; on the right, the village of Peekskill ascends from the shore to the lofty hill summit, and before us is the narrow passage of the river around the point of the Dunderberg, the grand base of Anthony's Nose, and other mountain cliffs and precipices. From Gallows Hill or Trea- son Hill (so called in remembrance of the execution there of the spy Palmer, in the days of the Revolution), northward, a grand panorama is exhibited. Here, to the west, over- looking the village, the river, and its mountain shores ; there, southward, hill and valley, as far as the high grounds of Tar- rytown below ; and above, the Canopus Valley, in the shadow of the Highland precipices. The division Of the American army under Putnam, in 1777, was encamped upon Gallows UP THE HUDSON. 17 Hill. Beneath this lofty ground, and upon the banks of Canopus Creek, is Continental Village, destroyed by General Tryon (October 9, 1777), together with the barracks, public stores, and many cattle. The Van Cortland House, in the vicinity, is an object of in- terest, as the ancient seat of an ancient family, and as the temporary residence of Washington. Near by is a venerable church, erected in 1767, within whose graveyard there is a monument to the memory of John Paulding, one of the cap- tors of Major Andre. A pleasant ride from Peekskill is to Lake Mahopac, a fashionable summer resort for the pleasure- seekers of New York. Caldwell's Landing, at the foot of Dunderberg Mountain, three miles above Stony Point, was long a calling- place for the river steamers. The passengers for Peekskill, opposite, were then always landed at Caldwell. This spot is memorable for the search so seriously and actively made for the treasure which the famous pirate, Captain Kidd, was sup- posed to have secreted at the bottom of the river here. Re- mains of the apparatus used for this purpose are still seen, in bold, black relief, at the Dunderberg Point, as the boat rounds it, toward the Horse-Race. This Quixotic- explora- tion has at least proved to a certainty that much valuable treasure now lies buried here, however uncertain the matter was before ! At Peekskill the river makes a sudden turn to the west, which is called the race. From this point to New- burg the scenery is very fine. The Highlands. — This grand mountain-group, through which the Hudson now makes its wa)-, extends from north- east to southwest, over an area of about 16 by 25 miles. The landscape which these noble hights and their picturesque anH ^angeful forms present is of unrivalled magnificence 2 18 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. and beauty, whether seen from their rugged summits or froi.i the river gorges. Thus says Theodore Fay of these scenes : " By wooded bluff we steal, by leaning lawn, By palace, village, cot, a sweet surprise At every turn the vision breaks upon, Till to our wondering and uplifted eyes The Highland rocks and hills in solemn grandeur rise. " Nor clouds in heaven, nor billows in the deep, More graceful shapes did ever heave or roll ; Nor came such pictures to a painter's sleep, Nor beamed such vision on a poet's soul ! The pent-up flood, impatient of control, In ages past here broke its granite bound, Then to the sea in broad meanders stole, While ponderous ruin strewed the broken ground, And these gigantic hills for ever closed around.'" Anthony's Nose is a rocky promontory on our right, which rises to the hight of 1,128 feet, the base of which has been tunneled by the railway a length of 200 feet. Two miles above is Sugar Loaf Mountain, with an elevation of 865 feet. Near by, and reaching far out into the river, is a sandy bluff, on which Fort Independence once stood. Further on is Bev- erly Island, and in the extreme distance Bear Mountain. Forts Clinton and Montgomery, taken by the British troops, after traversing the Dunderberg mountain, are in this vicinity ; and so, too, a little lake called Skinnipink, or Bloody Pond, where a disastrous skirmish occurred on the eve of the cap- ture of the forts, and the consequent opening to the enemy of the passage to the Highlands. On this (the west) side of the river, the Buttermilk Falls are seen descending over in- clined ledges, a distance of 100 feet. lona Island, between Fort Clinton and Dunderberg, is famous for its fruit orchards and preserves. In the heart of the Highland pass, and just below West Point, on the west bank, is Cozzens', opened in 1849, a spa- UP THE HUDSON. 19 cious and elegant summer hotel, and always well kept, which comes most charmingly into the pictures of the vicinity. It is accessible, as is West Point, at the same time, from the railway on the opposite side of the river, by a steam ferry from Garrisons Station (51 miles from New York), between Peeks- kill below and Cold Spring above. The concourse of sails sometimes windlocked in this mountain-pass presents a novel sight. Constitution Island, with the rocky plateau of West Point, now bars our view of the upper portion of the Highland pas- sage. Rounding it, we come into that wonderful reach of the river, flanked on the west side by Crdnest and Butter Hill, or Storm King, and on the east by the jagged acclivities of Breakneck and Bull Hill, with the pretty village of Cold Spring beneath. Constitution Island, called, prior to the Revolution, Martelear's Rock, was fortified, together with West Point, in 1775— '76. The remains of the magazines and other portions of the fort are still standing. A mile above Cozzens' we reach West Point, one of the great centres of attraction on the Hudson. West Point.— Hotels: The West Point (Roe's), on the terrace, and Cozzens' below. West Point, as well on account of its famous mili- tary school and historical associations, as for its varied and unique scenic attractions, is one of the most charming places on the Hudson. The hotels, though well kept, are not large, and those intending to make a stay there, en route to or from New York, would do well to order rooms in advance. Cozzens' was first opened in 1849, since which time the late Lieutenant-General Scott was accustomed to make it his summer headquarters. The best months in which to visit West Point are July and August — not only 20 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. for viewing the river scenery, which is extremely luxuriant at that season, but on account of the military exercises, better known as " exhibitions," in which all the cadets join. The United States Military Academy, established in 1802, will first attract the visitor's attention. The buildings em- brace the barracks, with accommodation for 250 cadets ; a stone building, 150 feet long, with three towers for military exercises, a laboratory, observatory, chapel, hospital, mess- room, and officers' quarters. The academy is of stone, 275 feet long by 75 feet wide, and three stories high. The land belonging to the academy or post, 250 acres in extent, was ceded by New York to the General Government in 1826. Among the objects of interest to be seen in and around the academy buildings are some revolutionary relics and cannon captured in the Mexican war, and a brass mortar taken from the British at Stony Point. The Chapel is an interesting edifice, rendered still more so by the associations connected with the recent demise and obsequies of Lieu- tenant-General Scott, who died at West Point, May 29, 1866. The Parade -Ground, on band afternoons, affords a character- istic and striking phase of West Point life. Kosciusko s Garden and Monument are on the river bank, near the parade-ground. The walk thither, overhung with trees and shrubbery, is known as Flirtation Walk. The monument is of white marble. It was erected by the corps of cadets in 1828, and cost $5,000. Near Kosciusko's Garden is a fine spring, said to have been discovered by Kosciusko himself, with seats for visitors. The remains of Forts Clin- ton, Putnam, Webb, and Wyllys, are sometimes visited. Fort Putnam is best worth seeing. It was built in 1778, under the direction of Col. Rufus Putnam. It stands on Mount Independence, 600 feet above the river, and from it a UP THE HUDSON. 21 view is obtained which will well repay the labor of reaching it. The visitor will delight his eye at all points, whether he gaze upon the superb panorama of the river as he sits upon the piazza of the hotel upon the plateau, or as he looks upon the scene from the yet loftier eminence above, crowned by the ruins of ancient fortresses ; or strolls amidst the inter- lacing walks, with new vistas of beauty and fresh memories of a gallant gone-by at every turn and step. A mile north of West Point is the celebrated foundery of R. P. Parrott, the inventor of the Parrott gun. The Robinson or Beverly House, occupied by Arnold at the time of his meditated treason, and whence he made his escape to a British vessel, the " Vulture," lying near by in the river, is on the opposite (east) bank, at the foot of Sugar Loaf Mountain, a pleasant drive of four or five miles south from Cold Spring. It has been since known as Ardenia Cold Spring, and is two miles north of Garrison's Station, on the Hudson River Railway. It has large founderies and machine- shops. Cro'nest casts its broad shadow upon us as we continue our voyage up from West Point. This is one of the highest mountains found in the Highland group. Its hight is 1,^23 feet. The poet Morris has happily sung the beauties of these bold cliffs : 11 Where Hudson's waves o'er silvery sam'.3 Wind through the hills afar, And Cro'nest like a monarch stands, Crowned with a single star." Cro'nest is the scene of Rodman Drake's poem of " The Culprit Fay." This picturesque hight, viewed from the deck of the 22 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. steamer on a clear summer's night, will vividly recall to the traveler's mind those lines of the poet : " 'Tis the middle watch of a summer's night— The earth is dark, but the heavens are bright ; Naught is seen in the vault on high. But the moon, and the stars, and the cloudless sky, And the flood which rolls its milky hue — A river of light on the welkin blue. The moon looks down on the old Crow Nest, She mellows the shade on his shaggy breast, And seems his huge gray form to throw In a silver cone on the wave below ; His sides are broken by spots of shade, By the walnut-boughs and the cedar made ; And through their clustering branches dark Glimmers and dies the firefly's spark, Like starry twinkles that momently break Through the rifts of the gathering tempest rack." Btitter Hill (" Boterberg") is the next mountain crest, and the last of the Highland range upon the west. It is i,52g feet high. Between Cro'nest and Butter Hill, and in the laps of both, is a lovely valley, replete with forest and brook beauties called Tempe. Cold Spring and " Undercliff? — Cold Spring is one of the most; picturesque of the villages of the Hudson, whether seen from the water or from the hills behind, or in detail amidst its little streets and villa homes. It is built upon a steep ascent, and behind it is the massive granite crown of Bull Hill. This noble mountain overshadows the beautiful terrace upon which the late lamented poet Morris lived in the rural seclusion of " Undercliff" for many years. It is scarcely possible to find a spot of sweeter natural attractions than the site of Undercliff, looking over the pretty village to the castellated hills of West Point, across the blue Hudson to old Cro'nest, or northward beyond the Newburg Bay, to the far away ranges of the Kaatskill. UP THE HUDSON. 23 Beyond Cold Spring, and still on the east bank of the river, the Highland range is continued in the jagged preci- pices of the Breakneck and Beacon Hills, in hight, respect- ively, 1,187 and i,6S5 feet. These mountains are among the most commanding features of the river scenery. CORNWALL LANDING is a rugged and picturesque little place, on the west bank. Back from the landing is the pleasant village of Cantei'bury. "Idlewild," Mr. Willis's romantic home, occupies a lofty plateau above, and north of the village. It is easily reached by either the Newburg or Cornwall road. New Windsor, between " Idlewild " and Newburg, and once the rival of the latter, is a straggling hamlet of Revolu- tionary memory. Washington established his headquarters at New Windsor, June 23, 1779, and again in 1780. His residence, a plain Dutch house, has long since passed away, as has also the famous " Temple of Virtue." At Moodna, two miles back of the landing, is a large paper-mill. Plum Point, on the west side, has some residences. Between New Windsor and Newburg is Cedar Lawn, the homestead of the Rev. J. T. Headley. IVewlHirg, with a population of near 15,000, and with its social and topographical attractions, is one of the largest and most delightful towns on the Hudson. Rising, as it does, rather precipitously from the water to an elevation of 300 feet, it presents a very imposing front to the voyager. The higher grounds are occupied by beautiful residences and villas. The place was originally settled by emigrant Pala- tines, in 1798. It has immediate railway communication westward up the Quassic Creek, via Chester (20 miles), by the Newburg branch of the Erie Railway. It is a place of considerable trade, and has some extensive manufactories. 04 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. The home of the lamented landscape gardener and horticul- tural writer, Downing, was here. Newburg was the theatre of many interesting events in the war of the Revolution. Washington's Headquarters, an old gray stone mansion, built by Mr. Hasbrouck, in 1750, stand a short distance south of the village. It was here the Revolutionary army was finally disbanded at the close of the war, June 23, 1782. Apart from the historical interest connected with the site, it com- mands a fine view of the great pass of the Highlands. It is owned by the State. The principal hotels are the Powelton and Orange. The Wharton House was used during the Rev- olution as a barracks. Many of the scenes in Cooper's novel of " The Spy" are laid in Newburgh. Fishkill Landing, 60 miles from New York, and opposite Newburg ferry, like that village and all the region around, abounds in natural beauties and elegant residences. It is a small place, with a population of 1,800. It lies in the lap of a lovely, fertile plain, which reaches back from the landing to the base of a bold mountain range. A portion of the Continental army was encamped here. The village of Fish- kill is situated on a creek of the same name, five miles east of the river. Two miles northeast of Fishkill Landing is the Verplanck House, interesting as having once been the headquarters of Baron Steuben, and the place in which the famous Society of the Cincinnati was organized, in 1783. Matteazvan, a manu- facturing point, is about a mile from the landing. Low Point, three miles above Fishkill Landing, is a small river hamlet. New Hamburg comes next, near the mouth of Wappinger's Creek, and a little north is the village of Marlborough, with Barnegat, famous for iis lime-kilns, two miles yet beyond. UP THE HUDSON. 25 Poughkeepsie, 75 miles, is one of the largest towns between New York and Albany. Its population is 17,000; it contains about twenty churches, four banks, and three or four newspapers. It has a variety of manufactories ; and the rich agricultural region behind it makes it the depot of a busy trade. College Hill, the site of the collegiate institute, half a mile northeast, is a commanding elevation, overlooking the river and the region around. Poughkeepsie was founded by the Dutch, in 1705. It is symmetrically built upon an elevated plain half a mile east of the river. It has no historical associations of especial in- terest. Professor Morse, the inventor of the electric tele- graph, and Benson J. Lossing, author of the " Field Book of the Revolution," reside here. The Gregory House and the Exchange are the leading hotels. New Paltz Landing, on the opposite side of the river, is reached by ferry. Hyde Park, 80 miles above New York, is a quiet little vil- lage on the east side of the river, in the midst of a country of great fertility, and thronged with wealthy homesteads and sumptuous villas. It is named after Sir Edmund Hyde, Lord Cornbury, one of the early provincial governors. Placentia, once the home of Paulding, is near by, and commands a magnificent view of the river windings far above, even to the peaks of the distant Kaatskills. Staaisburg is upon the rail- way, five miles above. Itomlout, near the mouth of Rondout Creek, is the terminus of the Delaware and Hudson Canal, and connects with Rhinebeck by ferry. It has extensive manufactories of cement, and a populatio?i of 7,500, chiefly Germans and Irish. King*! on, two miles above Rondout, is a thriving and 26 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. pleasant, place. It was settled by the Dutch (1663), about the time of the settlement of Albany and New York. H was burnt by the British, 1777. The first Constitution of New York was framed and adopted in a house still standing here. It was the birth place of Vanderlyn, the painter. He died here in 1853. Rhinebeck Landing, 90 miles from New York, is on the rail- way, opposite Kingston, and is connected with that village by a ferry. The river presents some attractive views at this point. The village of Rhinebeck is two miles back from the landing. It was founded by William Beekman, in 1647. The Beekman House is one of the best specimens of an old Dutch homestead to be found in the valley of the Hudson. The Exchange Hotel has accommodation for visitors. Saugerties and Tivoli, the one on the west and the other on the east bank of the river, next attract our attention. Sau- gerties is a picturesque and prosperous manufacturing village, at the debouche of the beautiful waters of Esopus Creek. Rokeby, the estate of William B. Astor, Esq., is a short dis- tance south of Barrytown. It formerly belonged to Mr. John Armstrong, the author of the " Newburg Letters," whose daughter Mr. Astor married. Between Barrytown and Ti- voli are Annandale and Montgomery Place, the seats of John Bard and Edward Livingston. Passing Maiden on the left, and Germantown on the right bank, we reach Oakhill Station, the point of departure on the Hudson River Railway for Kaatskill. Opposite Maiden stands Clermont, the seat of the late Chancellor Livingston. Kaatskill, or Catskill, lies at the mouth of the Kaatskill Creek, on the west bank of the Hudson. The site of the town is somewhat elevated, and commands extensive views of the river and distant hills. The banks of the creek UP THE HUDSON. 27 abound in varied and extensive scenery, and are annually the resort of city artists, bent on obtaining fresh studies. Here the lamented Cole painted his " Course of Empire " and " Voyage of Life." Here, too, Charles Moore resides ; and Thomas Nast, the spirited artist of " Harper's Weekly," and others, have also taken up a temporary residence in the village. The Hudson River House, by J. T. Huntley, affords excellent accommodation for those visiting Kaatskill village. The Catskill House, opposite the stage-office, is also a well- kept house. Tlie Kaatskill Mountains. — To reach the Kaats- kills from New York, we will follow our previous routes up the Hudson to the village of Kaatskill (in miles), or the railway to Oakhill Station opposite, crossing thence to Kaats- kill by ferry. Time from New York to the Mountain House, eight to nine hours. Immediate connection between the landing and the mountains, by Beach's stage lines ; fare, $i. The Kaatskills are a part of the great Appalachian Chain, which extends through the eastern portion of the Union from Canada to the Gulf of Mexico. Their chief ranges follow the course of the Hudson River for 20 to 30 miles, lying west of it, and separated by a valley stretch of 10 to 12 miles. These peaks lend to the landscape of that part of the Hud- son from which they are visible, its greatest charm. The Mountain House is reached by a pleasant stage-coach ride, which usually occupies three hours. Blooms Half-way House affords refreshment for stage passengers. Two miles from the summit the coach stops at Sleepy Hollow, a spot usually conceded to be the site of Rip Van Winkle's famous nap. Here a house of refreshment has recently been built ; it is known as the " Rip Van Winkle House," and is kept by Mr. Ira Saxe. The Mountain House is an excellent one 28 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. combining all the comforts and many of the luxuries of more pretentious establishments. Its original cost was $20,000, and it has been repeatedly enlarged and improved. Charles L. Beach is the proprietor. The last three miles of the journey to the hotel is up the side of the mountain, made easy by a good winding way. Moses Rock. — The path lead- ing to this retired spot is passed on the left of the road, a short distance south of the hotel. A most superb view is had, from the piazza, of the Hudson River and valley, and of the mountain ranges of New England in the distance. Sun-" rise on the Catskills, as seen from the Mountain House, has been thus poetically described by an old Knickerbocker con- tributor : " Then rouse ye up its kind approach to greet, With sunrise on the mountain-tops, and stay To mark how all that's glorious, fair, and sweet, Comes forth revealed by the bright god of day ; And as upon the magic scene you gaze, It seems His own creation strikes you with amaze. "As we from this proud height the earth behold, Ushered into his presence ; and the flash Of his first beams, reveals an outline bold, The distant hills imprinted at one dash, In dark relief upon the glowing sky, To fade there through each shade of blue till evening die. 1 ' In favorable weather the cities of Albany and Troy can be seen with the aid of a good glass. North Mountain furnishes a pleasant ramble for the visitor at the Mountain House ; the best view is obtained from Table Rock, three-quarters of a mile north of the hotel. South Mountain is another favorite ramble, commanding a view of the Kaaterskill Pass. The Two Lakes, north and south, are reached in a short stroll from the hotel, being on the direct road to the falls. They afford good fishing. The Kaaterskill or Hi?h Falls are two miles west of UP THE HUDSON. 29 the Mountain House, easily reached by stage, or boat on the lake. The Laurel House commands an excellent view of the falls, and of Round Top and High Peak, in the immediate neighborhood. The descent of the first cascade is 180 feet, and of the second So feet ; below these is another fall of 40 feet, making the total descent 300 feet, The Kaaterskill has a devious and rapid course of eight miles to the Kaats- kill, near the village. To see the falls to the best advantage, the visitor should descend the winding stairs leading from the platform of the hotel, and spend an hour or two in ex- ploring the gorge and glen below. Refreshments, if desired, ran be supplied from the dizzy hight by means of basket and rope. Mr. Scutt, the proprietor of the falls, resides at the Laurel House, and personally provides for the wants of visitors. Guides to the falls and to the neighboring Cloves are furnished at the Laurel House ; a charge of 25 cents is made to each passenger for showing the falls. Livery can also be obtained at reasonable prices. Fenimore Cooper, in his story of " The Pioneer," thus de- scribes these cascades : " The water comes croaking and winding among the rocks, first, so slow that a trout might swim in it, then starting and running like any creature that wanted to make a fair spring, till it gets to where the mount- ain divides like the cleft foot of a deer, leaving a deep hol- low for the brook to tumble into. The first pitch is nigh 200 feet, and the water looks like flakes of snow before it touches the bottom, and then gathers itself together again for a new start ; and may be flutters over 50 feet of flat rock be- fore it falls for another 100 feet, when it jumps from shelf to shelf, first running this way and that way, striving 10 get out of the hollow, till it finally gets to the plain." This branch of the Kaaterskill comes from the waters of the two lakes on 30 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. the plateau above ; and, as the supply has to be economized in order that the cascades ma)' look their best when they have company, the stream is dammed, and the flood is let on at proper times only. We have now peeped at all the usual " sights" of the region ; but there are other chapters of beaut) 7 , perhaps yet more inviting. Let the tourist, if he be adventurous and is a true lover of Nature, follow the brook down from the base of the cataracts we have just described, into the principal clove ; then let him ascend the main stream for a mile, over huge boulders, through rank woods, and many by-cascades, which, if smaller, are still more pic- turesque than those " nominated in the bond ;" or, let him descend the creek two miles, sometimes by the edge of the bed of the waters, and when that is impracticable, by the turnpike road, which traverses the great clove or pass. At every turn and step there will be a new picture — sometimes a unique rapid or fall, sometimes a soaring mountain cliff, sometimes a rude bridge across the foaming torrent, some- times a little hut or cottage ; and at last, as he comes out to- ward the valley on the east, the humble village of Palenville. This portion of the Kaatskills is that most preferred by artists for study, and the inns at Palenville are often occu- pied by them, though they offer but little inducement to the ease and comfort loving tourist to tarry. Another nice excursion from the Mountain House is a ride along the ridge five or six miles, to the entrance of the Stony Clove (Bear's Gap), and thence through the wilderness of this fine pass. The Mountain Home, at Tannersville, by Gray & Mulford, is a desirable stopping-place for visitors to this region. High Peak, the most elevated of the Kaatskill summits, towering 4,000 feet high, should certainly be climbed, in order UP THE HUDSON. 31 to see the region fairly. It is six miles west of the Mount- ain House, is a long and toilsome journey for many, but it well repays for the labor of reaching it. The Mountain House, seen from High Peak, looks like a pigmy in the vale. Plaaterkill Clove is another grand pass on the hills, five miles below the Kaaterskill passage. A mountain torrent, full of beauties in glen, and rock, and cascade, winds through it. The tourist here will recall Bryant's lines : 11 Midst greens and shades the Kaaterskill leaps From cliffs where the wood-flower clings ; All summer he moistens his verdant steeps With the light spray of the mountain springs; And he shakes the woods on the mountain side, When they drip with the rains of the autumn tide. M But when, in the forest bare and old, The blast of December calls, He bu ilds in the starlight, clear and cold, A palace of ice where his torrent fall; — With turret, and arch, and fretwork fa'r, And pillars clear as the summer air. Mr. T. Addison Richards, the artist, thus writes of the winter aspect of these falls : " The cataracts of the Catskills, in winter, when the spray is frozen into a myriad fantastic forms, all glowing like the prism, as the clear, cold sunlight reveals these mystical wonders, is a sight so grand and novel as to well repay the exposure and fatigue of a visit thither through bleak January's snows and ice." To visit the Kaatskills comfortably, three days will suffice for the journey thence by rail from New York, for the stay and return to the city. Not less than four, however, ought to be thus invested, if one would make sure of a satisfactory dividend ; and if a week is at command, so much the happier he who commands it. Hudson. — Hotels: The Hudson House, North Hou x. — Passing Mount Merino, about four miles above Kaatskill, the 32 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. cit; of Hudson, 115 miles from New York, is next reached. It was settled in 1784, by Quakers from New England. The main street (Warren), which runs through the heart of the city from east to west, terminates at the river extremity in a pleasant little park called Promenade Hill, on a bold promon- tory rising abruptly 60 feet above the water ; while the other terminus climbs to the foot of Prospect Hill, an ele- vation of 200 feet. From these hights the views of the Kaatskills, on the opposite side of the Hudson River, and of the river and city of Hudson, are incomparably fine. It is at the head of sloop navigation on the river ; it contains a fine court-house of marble, several elegant church edifices, and a Female Seminary, which occupies the former Lunatic Asy- lum. It is the terminus of the Hudson and Boston Railway. Population, 12,000. Sfew Lebanon Springs have fine medicinal proper- ties, and are much resorted to during the summer months. The route thither from Hudson is by the Hudson and Bos- ton Railroad to Canaan, and thence by stage. The manu- facture of thermometers and barometers is extensively car- ried on here. Columbia Hall is the best hotel. The Shaker Village, with its unique features of social life, is worth visit- ing. The settlement is two miles from the Springs, and is situated in a charming valley, richly skirted by woods. The Herbery, for the vegetable curing process, in which the Shak- ers are so proficient, and many of the farms, are well worth the attention of strangers. (See Lebanon Springs.) Columbia Springs, five miles from Hudson, is a summer resort of great value to invalids, and of interest to all. The Clave rack Falls, some eight miles off, should not be overlooked by the visitor. Alliens is a little village with a population of 2,000, di- UP THE HUDSON. 33 -)o» rectly opposite Hudson, and connected with it by a st 2am ferry. Stockport and Coxsackie arc bustling and thriving little places immediately beyond Athens. Kinderhook Landing. — The village of Kinderhook, about five miles east of the landing, on the east side of the river, is the birth-place of Martin Van Buren, the eighth president of the United States. His estate of " Lindenvvald," where he spent the last years of his life, is situated two miles south of the village. New Baltimore and Coeymaris are now passed on the left, and Schodack and Castleton on the right. Two miles below Albany, at a place called Rcmcood, is an im- mense stone dyke, built by the Government in 1832, at a cost of a quarter of a million dollars. A few minutes after pass- ing this point, the spires and domes of the State Capital rise to view, J»nd the steamer is soon alongsfde her dock at Albany, and here closes our journey up the Hudson. 3 34 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. ROUTE II. Saratoga and Ballston Springs. 51MONG the many watering-places of our Atlantic seaboard, there is none more justly popular than the Springs of Saratoga County, in the State of New York. The fame of its waters — their proximity to all the great cen- tres of population — the ready means of access — the extent of accommodation for visitors — and last, though not least, the attractions which fashion lend to them during the season — have combined to render Saratoga the most frequented of all our summer resorts. During the hight of the season the arrivals frequently number a thousand in a single day. There is nothing remarkable about the topography or scenery of Saratoga ; on the contrary, the spot would be uninterest- ing enough but for the virtues of its waters and the dissipa- tion of its brilliant society. The village streets, however, are gratefully shaded by fine trees, and a little respite from the gay whirl may be had on the walks and lawns of the pretty rural cemetery close by. The most desirable hotels at Saratoga are the Congress SARATOGA AND BALLSTON SPRINGS. 35 Hall, destroyed by fire in 1866 and rebuilt in i863, the Union, and the Clarendon. Congress Hall contains 800 rooms with accommodations for 1,200 guests. The Marvin and American houses are well patronized. Besides these houses, there are many of less fashion and price, and numerous pri- vate boarding-houses, where one may live quietly at a moder- ate cost. The hotels which we have named have accommo- dation for from 4,000 to 5,000 guests. Attached to the Union is an opera-house, capable of seating 1,500 persons ; billiard rooms, baths, etc. Fine bands of music discourse on the broad, shady piazzss, and in the ball-rooms, at the dinner and evening hours. Congress Hall is a magnificent structure, well kept, and deservedly popular. The Clarendon is an elegant, spacious house, delightfully situated on the brow of the hill overlooking Congress and Columbia Springs. The route from Boston is by the "Western Railway, 200 miles to Albany ; or, from New York, by the Hudson River line or steamboats, 144 miles to Albany, or 150 miles to Troy. From either place, by the Rensselaer and Saratoga Railway, through Ballston Springs. The short ride from Troy to the Springs is a most agree- able one. The route crosses and follows the Hudson and the Mohawk rivers, to Waterford, at the meeting of these waters, four miles above Troy, and near the Cohoes Falls, a much admired and frequented resort upon the Mohawk ; thence continuing upon the west bank of the Hudson, eight miles farther to Mechanicsville ; it afterward crosses the canal, passes Round Lake, and enters Ballston Springs. During the summer, a car on the Hudson River Railway express trains from New York passes through to the Springs without change. Passengers via Albany, for the Springs, change cars at Albany. 36 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. The springs from which the fame of Saratoga is derived, however much fashion may have since nursed it, are all in or very near the village. There are many different waters in present use ; but the most sought after of all are those of the Congress Spring, of which Dr. Chilton gives the following analysis : One gallon of 261 cubic inches contains chloride of sodium, 363.829 grains ; carbonate of soda, 7.200 ; carbon- ate of lime, 86.143 ; carbonate of magnesia, 78.621 ; carbon- ate of iron, .841 ; sulphate of soda, .651 ; iodide of sodium and bromide of potassium, 5.920 ; silica, .472 ; alumina, .321 ; total, 543.998 grains. Carbonic acid, 284.65 ; atmospheric air, 5.41 ; making 209.06 inches of gaseous contents. This spring was discovered in 1792, though it was long before known to and esteemed by the Indians. It is owned by a company which also owns the Columbian and Empire Springs. The bottling establishment will repay a visit. After the Congress waters, which are bottled and sent all over the world, as everybody knows, the springs most in fa- vor and use at Saratoga are the Empire, the Columbian, the High Rock, the Iodine, the Pavilion, and Putnam's. The Excelsior, Star, and Saratoga A Springs are also becom- ing popular. The Empire Spring, the most northerly one in the village, has grown greatly in repute of late years. Thus far its landscape surroundings have re- ceived but poor attention. The Columbian Spring, south- west of the Empire, is much esteemed for its tonic and strengthening purposes. The High Rock Spring, not far from the Empire, is much esteemed both for its medici- nal virtues, and for the curious character of the rock from which it issues, and after which it is named. It became first known through the discovery of Sir William Johnson, in 1767. This singular rock has been formed by the accumulated de- SARATOGA AND BALLSTON SPRINGS. 37 posits of the mineral substances (magnesia, lime, and iron) held in solution by the carbonic acid gas of the springs. The circumference of the rock, at the surface of the ground, is 24 feet 4 inches ; its hight 3^ feet, with an aperture of nearly one foot diameter. The centennial anniversary of its discovery was celebrated August 23, 1S66. The Hamilton and Putnam springs are in the neighborhood of Congress Hall. The Seltzer Spring was opened in 1867. In the im- mediate vicinity of the springs is pointed out the spot upon which the battles of Saratoga and Stillwater were fought in 1777. The Alpha and Omega of the daily Saratoga programme is to drink and to dance— the one in the earliest possible morning, and the other at the latest conceivable night. Among the out-door diversions is a jaunt to Saratoga Lake, an attractive resort, six miles distant. The drive thither has recently been improved. The lake is nine miles in length, and very nearly three in width. Excellent fishing. The marshes around it prevent access, except here and the re. AbelTs and Moons Lake Houses are well-kept houses, with conveniences for boating, fishing, etc. Moons is fa- mous for its game dinners and fried potatoes. Snake Hill is the name given to an eminence upon the eastern side of the lake. Prosfect, or Waring Hill, also affords a pleasant drive. The Indian Camp, Circular Railway, and Archery Ground, are immediately south of Congress Spring and the " Victoria Walk." The peculiarity of " the camp" is that the Indians are almost while, and of marked Milesian features. The Annual Races are held half a mile from the Springs. The season opens June 15th, and visitors arrive rapidly after July opens. The village has two newspaper offices, several churches, and a resident population of 8,ooo, which is in- 38 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. creased to nearly 30,000 during the months of July and August. Hailstoil Spa is upon the Kayaderosseros Creek, a small stream which flows through the village, 25 miles from Troy and 7 miles from Saratoga Springs. Its mineral waters, which were discovered in 176Q, are celebrated for their medicinal qualities, although not so popular as they were formerly, those of Saratoga being now generally pre- ferred. A flourishing seminary has been established near the centre of the village, on the site of the former Sans Souci Hotel. The village has railway connection with Schenec- tady, distant 15 miles. Long Lake, a famous fishing resort, is five miles distant. The Sans Souci Hotel has good ac- commodation for visitors. LAKE GEORGE. <>9 ROUTE III. Lake George. | ROM Saratoga or Ballston Springs the tourist may pleasantly and profitably extend his trip to Lake George, distant twenty-eight miles northward. The route lies northward, via Gansevoort, to Moreau Station, 17 miles, and thence by stages, 11 miles, over a plank road, to Caldwell, at the south end or head of the lake. Glenn s Falls, on the upper Hudson, are passed on the way, nine miles from the lake. The wild and rugged land- scape is in striking contrast with the general air of the coun- try below— there, quiet pastoral lands; here, rugged rock and rushing cataract. From its natural, its poetical, and its historical character, the spot is possessed with a threefold interest. The passage of the river is through a rude ravine, in a mad descent of 75 feet over a rocky precipice of 900 feet in length. Within the roar of these rapids were laid some of the scenes in Cooper's story of the " Last of the Mohicans." They are gently associated with our romantic memories of Uncas and Hawk's Eye, David Duncan Haywood and his sweet wards, Alice and Cora Monroe. When within four miles of Lake George, we pass a dark 40 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. glen, in which lie hidden the storied waters of Bloody Pond ; and close by is the historic old boulder, remembered as William's Rock. Near this last-mentioned spot, Colonel Williams was killed in an engagement with the French and Indians, September 8, 1775. The slain in this unfortunate battle were cast into the waters near by, since called Bloody Pond. It is now quiet enough, under its surface of slime and dank lilies. The village built up around these falls was almost wholly destroyed by fire, in May, i860. The inhabit- ants number near 5,ooo, and are principally engaged in- manufacturing pursuits. Marble of fine quality is quarried here. Our road from the falls descends to the lake shore, the gleaming floods and the blue cliffs of Horicon closing in the distance. The first broad view of the beautiful lake, seen suddenly as our way brings us to the brink of the highlands, above which we have thus far traveled, is of surpassing beauty, only exceeded by the thousand-and-one marvels of delight which we afterward enjoy in all the long traverse of its famous waters. Caldwell, at the south end of the lake, has two excellent hotels, the Fort William Henry Hotel and the Lake House. About a mile southeast from the site of Fort William Henry are the ruins of Fort George, passed on the road from Glenn's Falls. These localities are seen from the piazza of the Lake House, which commands also a fine view of the French Mountain and Rattlesnake Hill, and of the islands and hills down the lake. The passage of Lake George, 36 miles to the landing near the village of Ticonderoga, and four miles from the venerable ruins of Fort Ticonderoga, on Lake Champlain, is made by the steamer Hiawatha, the trip down to the fort and back LAKE GEORGE. 41 occupying the day very delightfully. Leaving Caldwell after breakfast, we proceed on our voyage down the lake. After passing the fine residence of Mr. Cramer, the first spot of especial interest which we note is Diamond Island, in front of Dunham Bay. Here, in 1777, was a military depot of Bur- Coyne's army ; it was also the scene of a skirmish between the garrison and a detachment of American troops. North of Diamond Isle lies Long Island, in front of Long Point, which extends into the lake from the east. Harris's Bay lies between the north side of this point and the mount- ains. In this bay Montcalm moored his boats and landed in 1757. Doom, or Twelve-Mile Island, is passed in the cen- tre of the lake, some 12 miles north of Caldwell. Putnam's men took shelter here while he went to apprise General Webb of the movements of the enemy, at the mouth of the Northwest Bay. This bay lies in one of the most beautiful parts of Lake George, just beyond Bolton Landing, where there is an inviting place to sojourn, called the " Mohican House." The best fishing-grounds of Lake George are in the vicinity of Bolton Landing, Shelving Rock, and thence to Caldwell, though fine trout and bass are freely caught from one end of the lake to the other. The bay extends up on the west of the Tongue Mountain some five miles. On the east side of the bay, the Tongue Mountain comes in literally like a tongue of the lake, into the centre of which it seems to protrude, with the bay on one side and the main passage of the waters on the other. On the right or east shore, in the neighborhood, and just as we reach the Tongue and enter the " Narrows," is the bold semi-circular palisades called Shelving Rock. Passing this picturesque feature of the landscape, and, afterward, the point of the Tongue Mountain, we enter the Narrows at the base of the boldest 4-2 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. and loftiest shores of Horicon. The chief peak of the hills here is that of Black Mountain, with an altitude of 2,200 feet. The islands, so called, of this lovely lake, number more than 300. Sabbath-Day Point. — Emerging from the Narrows, on the north, we approach a long projecting strip of fertile land called Sabbath-Day Point — so named by General Aber- crombie, from his having embarked his army on the spot on Sunday morning, after a halt for the preceding night. The spot is remembered also as the scene of a fight, in 1756, be- tween the colonists and a party of French and Indians. The former, sorely pressed, and unable to escape across the lake, made a bold defense and defeated the enemy, killing very many of their men. In 1776, Sabbath-Day Point was again the scene of a battle between some American militia and a party of Indians and Tories, when the latter were repulsed, and some 40 of their number were killed and wounded. This part of Horicon is even more charming in the views which it affords, both up and down the lake, than it is in its numerous historical reminiscences. On a calm sunny day, the romantic passage of the Narrows, as seen to the south- ward, is wonderfully fine ; while in the opposite direction is the broad bay, entered as the boat passes Sabbath-Day Point, and the summer landing and hotel at " Garfield's" soon to be abruptly closed on the north by the huge precipices of Anthony's Nose on the right and Roger's Slide on the left. This pass is not unlike that of the Highlands of the Hudson, as approached from the south. Roger's Slide is a rugged promontory, about 400 feet high, with a steep face of bare rock, down which the Indians, to their great bewilderment, supposed the bold ranger, Major Rogers, to have passed when they pursued him to the brink of the precipice. LAKE GEORGE. 43 Two miles beyond is Prisoner s Island, where, during the French war, those taken captive by the English were con- fined ; and directly west is Lord Howe s Point, where the En- glish army, under Lord Howe, consisting of 16,000 men, landed previous to the attack on Ticonderoga. We now approach the termination of our excursion on this beautiful lake. Another mile brings us to the steamboat landing near the village of Ticonderoga, whence stages run a distance of three miles over a rough and romantic road, to Fort Ticon- deroga — following the wild course of the passage by which Horicon reaches the waters of Lake Champlain — a passage full of bold rapids and striking cascades. Fort Ticonderoga, of which the ruins only are visible, was erected by the French in 1756, and called b) T them " Corril- lon." It was originally a place of much strength ; its natu- ral advantages were very great, being surrounded on three sides by water, and having half its fourth covered by a swamp, and the only point by which it could be approached, by a breastwork. It was afterward, however, easily reduced, by an expedient adopted by General Burgoyne — that of placing a piece of artillery on the pinnacle of Mount Defiance, on the south side of the Lake George outlet, and 750 feet above the lake, and entirely commanding the fort, from which shot was thrown into the midst of the American works. Fort Ticonderoga was one of the first strongholds taken from the English in 1775, at the commencement of the Revolu- tionary War. Colonel Ethan Allen, of Vermont, at the head of the Green Mountain Boys, surprised the unsuspect- ing garrison, penetrated to the very bedside of the comman- dant, and waking him, demanded the surrender of the fort. " In whose name, and to whom ?" exclaimed the surprised officer. " In the name of the great Jehovah and the Co»- 44 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. tinental Congress," thundered the intrepid Allen, and the fort was immediately surrendered. After exploring the picturesque ruins of the ancient fort, and dining at the hotel, which stands upon the margin of a beautiful lawn, sloping to the Champlain shore, the tourist may return to the landing on Lake George, and thence to Cald- well again, in time for tea ; or he may take the Champlain boat from Whitehall, en route for Canada. For the sake of preserving our continuity of trc.vel, a con- sideration so important with the tourist, we will resume our programme at Moreau Station, on the Saratoga and White- hall Railway, to which point we have already followed it in our visit to Lake George. To Whitehall the country is exceedingly attractive, much of the way, in its quiet, sunny valley beauty, watered by pleasant streams, and environed in the distance by picturesque hills. The Champlain Canal is a continual object of inter- est by the way ; and there are also, as in all the long journey before us, everywhere spots of deep historic interest — if we could tarry to read their stories — of the memorable incidents which they witnessed, both in French and Indian warfare, and afterward in the Revolutionary War. In the valley regions of the Hudson, which lie between Albany and Lake Champlain, are many scenes famous for the struggles between the colonists and Great Britain — the battle-grounds of Bemis Hights and Stillwater (villages of the upper Hudson), and of Saratoga, which ended in the defeat of Burgoyne and his army. Three miles north of Moreau Station we pass Fort Edward, the scene of the murder of Jane McCrea by the Indians ; and twelve miles further on, Fort Anne, a pleasant village of Washington County, on the canal, Remains of the fortifica- LAKE GEORGE. 45 tion from whHi the place is named, and which was erected during the French War of 1756, are still to be seen. Whitehall, 77 miles north of Albany, was a point of much consideration during the French and Indian War, and through the Revolution. In former times it r s called Skenesborough. It is at the south end, or head, of Lake Champlain, within a rude, rocky ravine, at the foot of Skene's Mountain. The Champlain Canal to Troy terminates here. Pawlet River and Wood Creek, which enter the lake here, furnish abundant water-power. The population numbers about 4,500. There is nothing in the vicinage to delay the traveler. From Whitehall we can either continue our jour- ney down Lake Champlain, 156 miles, to St. John, or pro- ceed by railway through Vermont, via Castleton, Rutlana Burlington, etc., to Rouse's Point, and thence to Montreal The boat or lake route is preferable, as affording greater variety and more attractive scenery. 46 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. ROUTE IV. Lake Champlain. 'AKE CHAMPLAIN, on« of the most import?ut and attractive features of (he northern tour, li?s between New York and Vermont, in latitude be- tween 43 30' and 45 6' North. It varies in breadth from half a mile to 10 miles, and in depth from 50 to 280 feet. Its principal tributaries are the Saranac, Au Sable, and Wi- nooski rivers, and its principal outlet the Sorel or Richelieu River, through which it discharges into the St. Lawrence, 50 miles below Montreal. The name is derived from that of Sam- uel de Champlain, who discovered it in 1609. Navigation opens in May, and usually continues to November. One of the U. S. mail steamers leaves Whitehall on the arrival of trains from Albany, etc. The narrowness of the lower part of Lake Champlain gives it much more the appearance of a river than a lake. For 20 miles the average breadth does not exceed half a mile, and at one point it is not more than 40 rods across. However, it grows wide enough as we pass Ticon- deroga, where passengers by the Lake George detour are picked up ; and in the vicinity of Burlington there are too many broad miles between the shores for picturesque views. Whether broad or narrow, however, the voyage over its LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 47 mountain-environed waters, in spacious and well-appointed boats, is always a pleasure to be greatly enjoyed and happily remembered. On the east rise the bare peaks of the Green Hills of Vermont, the bold Camel's Hump leading all along the line ; and on the west are the still more varied summits and ridges of the Adirondack Mountains, in New York. Mount Independence lies in Vermont, opposite Ticonde- roga, about a mile distant. The remains of military works are still visible here. Mount Hope, an elevation about a mile north of Ticonderoga, was occupied by General Burgoyne previous to the recapture of Ticonderoga, which took place in 1777, nearly two years after its surrender to the gallant Allen. St. Clair, the American commander, being forced to evacuate, it again fell into the possession of the British, and was held during the war. Not far above, and upon the op- posite shore, is the village of Crown Point, and just beyond the picturesque and well-preserved ruins of the fortifications of the same name. Opposite, is Chimney Point, and just above, on the left, at the mouth of Bulwaggy Bay, is Fori Henry. Burlington.— Hotels: American, The Lake House. Burlington, Vermont, the largest and most beautiful town on the lake, or, indeed, in the State, stands upon the eastern shore, about midway between Whitehall and St. Johns, and 80 miles from Whitehall. It was settled in 1783, and con- tains nearly 10,000 inhabitants. Rising gradually to an ele- vation of several hundred feet from the water, the town pre- sents an imposing aspect. It is the seat of the University of Vermont, founded 1791, and is a place of much commercial importance, connected by railway with all parts of the coun- try. Across the lake is Fort Kent, from which vicinity, whether on land or on water, the landscape in every direc- 48 THE TOURISTS GUIDE. tion is striking and beautiful. Mount Mansfield is reached by stage from Burlington. A pleasant detour may be made from Burlington, by the Vermont Central Railway, to the White Mountains. The better plan, however, is to proceed up the lake to St. Johns, and thence by Waterloo and Lake Memphremagog, 63 miles. The remarkable Walled Banks of the Au Sable are a mile or two west of Port Kent, on the way to the manufacturing village of Keeseville. (See Adirondacks.) The Au Sable House is an excellent sum- mer hotel. The Falls of the Au Sable, though but little known as yet, will one day be esteemed among the chief natural wonders of the country. Plattsburg . — Hotel : " Fottqtiefs" Twenty-four miles above Burlington, and on the opposite shore, is the pleasant village of Plattsburg, where the Saranac River comes in from its lake-dotted home, at the edge of the great wilderness of Northern New York, 30 miles westward. Plattsburg is connected with Montreal by the P. & M. Railway. Cumber- land Bay, into which the Saranac enters, was the scene of the victory of McDonough and McComb over the British naval and land forces under Commodore Downie and Sir George Provost, familiarly known as the Battle of Lake Champlain. Here the American Commodore awaited the arrival of the British fleet, which passed Cumberland Head about 8 o'clock on the morning of September 11, 1814. The first gun from the fleet was the signal for commencing the attack on land. Sir George Provost, with about 14,000 men, furiously assaulted the defenses of the town, while the battle raged between the fleets, in full view of the armies. General McComb, with about 3,000 men, mostly undisciplined, foiled the repeated assaults of the enemy, until the capture of the British fleet, after an action of about two hours, obliged him LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 49 to retire, with ihe loss of 2,500 men, and a large portion of his baggage and ammunition. Twenty-five miles farther we reach Rouses Point, on the west side of the lake. This is our last landing before we enter Canada. It is the terminus of the Lake Champlain Railway to Ogdensburg, 118 miles. Railways from the East- ern States, through Vermont, come in here, and are pro- longed by the Montreal and Champlain road, to Montreal. If the traveler toward Canada prefers to continue his jour- ney otherwise than via Plattsburg, or Rouse's Point, he may go on by steamboat to the head of navigation in these waters, to St. Johns, and thence by Lachine to Montreal. (See Canada, for the tour of the St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario, from Quebec via Montreal to Niagara.) 4 50 THE TOUFTST'S GUIDE. ROUTE V. The White Mountains. HESE mountains cover an area of about 40 miles square, in Coos County, Northern New Hamp- shire, though the name of White Mountains is, in the neighborhood, given to the central group only —the half-dozen lofty peaks of which Mount Washington is the royal head and front. These noble hill-ranges have earned for this region the title of the " Switzerland of Amer- ica." Their precise latitude is 40 ° 16' 34!" North, and lon- gitude 71 ° 20' West. The western cluster is contra-distin- guished as the Franconia Range. The White Mountains, specifically so-called, extend from the Notch, in a north- easterly direction, some 14 miles, increasing from each end of the line gradually in hight toward Mount Washington, in the centre. These respective elevations are, in the order in which they stand, beginning at the Notch : Mount Web- ster, 4,oco feet above the level of the sea; Jackson, 4,100 ; Clinton, 4,200 ; Pleasant, 4,800 ; Franklin, 4,900 ; Monroe, 5,300 ; Washington, 6,285 ; Clay, 5,400 ; Adams, 5,800 ; Jefferson, 5,710 ; and Madison, 5,361. They were first visited by whites, according to Belknap, the State historian, by Walter Neal, in 1632. Their aboriginal name was Aglochook THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 51 or Agiocockook, signifying "Mountain of the Snowy Forehead and Home of the Great Spirit." We will suppose our tourist to have made his approach by the usually traveled route, i.e., from the southeast to the Central or White Mountain group, via Lake Winnipisaukee and Conway Valley, and thus meet him at the Crawford House, near the Great Notch. Tlie Hotels of this region are numerous and generally well kept. The Crawford House, situated ioo rods from the White Mountain Notch, is a most excellent establishment, and bears the name of the earliest hosts in these mountain gorges. The story of the adventures and endurance of the early settlers here is extremely interesting : how Captain Eleazar Rosebrook, of Massachusetts, built a house on the site of the Giant's Grave, four miles from the Notch, after- ward occupied by Fabyan's Mount Washington Hotel ; how his nearest neighbors were 20 miles away, excepting the Crawford family, 12 miles down in the Notch valley, the site of the present old Crawford House, at the base of the mount- ains coming from Conway, on the southeast ; how the Rose- brook children were often sent, for family supplies, over the long and dangerous path to Crawford's, returning, not unfre- quently, late at night ; how Ethan Allen Crawford was heir to the Rosebrook estate, and how he became known as the " Giant of the Hills" ; how he and his family made the first mountain paths,* and were for many years the only guides over them of the rare visitors whom the brief summers brought ; and how they have since seen their home thronged, for weeks together, like a city saloon, with beauty unci fash- ion. The Crawfords are a large, athletic race. Abel, the father, called the "Patriarch of the Mountains," would walk * Th-- first brid'e-path was cut by Ethan Crawford, in i3:i. 52 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. five mountain miles, to his son's, before breakfast, at the age of 80. At 70, he made the first ascent ever made on horse- back to the top of Mount Washington. His- sons were all over six feet high ; one of them was six and a half feet ; and another, Ethan Allen, was seven feet in hight. The Glen House, J. M. Thompson, proprietor, occupies a delightful locale in the valley of the Peabody River, imme- diately under Mount Washington, and in full view of the loftiest summits in the whole mountain district. The house is situated 830 feet above Gorham, 1,632 feet above tide- water, in Bellows's clearing, which contains about 100 acres. The house has been enlarged, refurnished, and has accom- modation for 1,000 guests. For a base view of the mount- ains, no spot could be selected so good as this. Seen from the piazza of the hotel, they rise to view in all their silent, impressive grandeur. A little to the left is Mount Washing- ton. Toward the right of its rock-crowned summit rise, in full view, the celebrated peaks of Adams and Jefferson — the one pointed, the other rounded. On both wings of these towering summits are the tops of lesser elevations. In the opposite direction, fronting the " Patriot Group " of gigantic forms, is the long, irregular outline of the Carter Mountains. Stages leave the Glen House for the Crawford House by the Cherry Mountain road, at eight o'clock every morning. Tourists approaching the White Mountains from the east, via Gorham, will of course make the ascent of Mount Wash- ington from the Glen, which is much the easiest and most expeditious. A wide, well-macadamized road, eight miles long, was completed, from the Glen to the top of Mount Washington, in 1861, at a cost of $100,000, and the ascent is now made daily, in comfortable Concord coaches, in three hours. From three to four hours for pedestrians is con- THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 53 sidered good time. The distance has been made in much less by old mountaineers. The best time to make the ascent is between two and five o'clock, p.m., though the majority go in the forenoon. The Tip Top and Summit Houses are as well kept as the very limited markets and means of trans- portation will permit. Charges, $1.50 for breakfast, dinner, or tea, and $1.50 for bed. The sunset and sunrise views from these points are exceedingly fine in favorable weather. The journey from the Crawford House is nine miles, made on the backs of Canadian ponies, over the old Crawford bridle-paths. The excursion occupies a long day, with the utmost industry. We made it, on one occasion, in mid- summer, with a party of thirty ladies and gentlemen, besides our guides, and it was a gay scene — the getting en rotite — and a singular cavalcade miles onward as we wound, in Indian file, cautiously along the rugged, narrow path, trust- ing to our sure-footed ponies to walk with us upon their backs over logs, and rocks, and chasms, which we would not have dared to leap ourselves ; and surprising was the picture, as we at length bivouacked, and ate our grateful lunch, upon the all-seeing crest of the grand old mountain. At another time we ascended in the middle of October, when we could muster no larger group than our friend, ourself. and our guide. For two miles from the summit the way was blocked with snow ; so we left our ponies to take care of themselves, and completed the tramp on foot. The Willey House is passed some miles below the Crawford, at the commencement of the ascent to the Notch. The spot is one of memorable interest, from its tragic story of the fearful avalanches of 1826, when the entire family which then occupied the house — Mr. Willey, his wife, five children, and two hired men — were all buried beneath the mighty debrii 54 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. of the mountain-slides. The following are the relative dis- tances from the several mountain houses to the Tip Top, on Mount Washington : Alpine House, 15 miles ; Brabrook's, 10 ; Fabyan's, 9 ; Crawford, 9 ; Glen, 7. The view from the summit, in favorable weather, is sub- lime. In the west, through the blue haze, are seen, in the distance, the ranges of the Green Mountains, the remark- able outlines of the summits of Camel's Hump and Mansfield Mountains being easily distinguished when the atmosphere is clear. To the northwest, under your feet, are the clear- ings and settlement of Jefferson, and the waters of Cherry Pond; and, farther distant, the village of Lancaster, with the waters of Israel's River. The Connecticut is barely visible, and often its appearance for miles is counterfeited by the fog arising from its surface. To the north and northeast, only a few miles distant, rise up boldly the great northeast- ern peaks of the White Mountain Range — Jefferson, Adams, and Madis — with their ragged tops of loose dark rocks. A little farther to the east are seen the numerous and dis- tant summits of the mountains of Maine. On the southeast, close at hand, are the dark and crowded ridges of the mount- ains of Jackson ; and beyond, the conical summit of Kear- sarge, standing by itself, on the outskirts of the mountains ; and, farther over, the low country of Maine and Sebago Pond, near Portland. Still farther, it is said, the ocean itself has sometimes been distinctly visible. The White Mount- ains are often seen from the sea, even at 30 miles distance from the shore ; and nothing can prevent the sea from being seen from the mountains but the difficulty of distinguishing its appearance from that of the sky near the horizon. Far- ther to the south are the intervals of the Saco, and the set- tlements of Bartlett and Conway, the sister ponds of Lovell, THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 55 in Fryburg ; and still farther, the remarkable four-toothed summit of the Chocorua, the .peak to the right being much the largest, and sharply pyramidal. Almost exactly south are the shining waters of the beautiful Winnipisaukee, seen with the greatest distinctness on a favorable day. To the south- west, near at hand, are the peaks of the southwestern range of the White Mountains ; Monroe, with its two little alpine ponds sleeping under its rocky and pointed summits ; the flat surface of Franklin, and the rounded top of Pleasant, with their ridges and spurs. Beyond these, the Willey Mountain, with its high, ridged summit ; and beyond that, several parallel ranges of high-wooded mountains. Farther west, and over all, is seen the high, bare summit of Mount Lafayette, in Franconia. Visitors to Mount Washington should always go well clad. The range of the thermometer, even in midsummer, is from 30 ° to 45 °. It frequently falls as low as 25 , and sometimes to 20 , or io° below freezing. Tucker/nan's Ravine is a marvelous place, seen in the ascent of the mountain, by the Davis Road leading from the Crawford House. It lies upon the right in passing over tri'e high spur directly southeast of Mount Washington. Turn- ing aside, the edge of the precipice is reached, and may be descended by a rugged pathway. It is a long, deep glen, with frowning walls, often quite inaccessible. It is filled hun- dreds of feet deep by the winter snows, through which a brook steals, as summer suns draw near, gradually widening its channel, until it flows through a grand snow cave, which was found, one season, by measurement, to be 84 feet wide on the inside, 40 feet high, and 180 feet long. The snow forming the arch was 20 feet thick. The engineers of the carriage-road dined in that snow-arch, July 16, 1854. Much as we have necessarily left unseen on the mountains^ 5G THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. we must now descend, and with a hasty peep at some yet unmentioned scenes in the vicinage of the Notch, pass on, 36 miles, to the Franconia Range in the west. Near the summit of Mount Washington, a few rods north- ward, is yet another black abyss, which is called the Gulf of Mexico. Its descent here is 2,000 feet, rugged, and precipi- tous. Oakes's Gulf is another fathomless cavern, seen far down on the right, in winding around the summit of Mount Monroe; . Tlfte CSireat Notch forms one of the most interesting and most popular features of the White Mountain scenery. The Crawford House is the best point from which to visit it and the numerous other points in its vicinity. Proceeding up the Saco, Mount Crawford and the Gianfs Stairs are dis- tinctly visible beyond the river on the right. The southern peak of Mount Crawford is 3,200 feet high, and the northern 3,500. Between them Motutt Resolution rears its head. The mountains, which have gradually gathered about us in our sleep ascent, have here all closed in. The magnificent pass —the gateway of the Notch— is a chasm between two per- pendicular masses of rock, approaching each other to within 22 feet. It was discovered (1771) by two hunters, Nash and Sawyer. Colonel Whipple, of Portsmouth, came through the following year, as the first settler. This was the tenth turnpike built in the State, and was incorporated in 1803. Dark overhanging cliffs stand as sentinels over this solemn pass, and it has been a work of toil to cut a pathway through the frowning barrier. This gorge is some three miles long, descending the valley of the Saco, toward the Willey House, the scene of the avalanche (August 28, 1826), by which the inmates, nine in number, were lost. The house has stood THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. i since 1793. Upon the north, the bold cliffs of Mount Willard rise to the hight of 2,000 feet above the Crawford House and the quiet vales around it. The view from this eminence is one of the finest, if not the finest, in the neighborhood of the Crawford. The Silver Cascade, sometimes called the " Second Flume," is a favorite scene, about half a mile south of the entrance to the Notch. It is one of the most charming waterfalls im- aginable, seen from the piazza of the hotel, at a distance of two miles, bubbling down the mountain side, Coo feet above the neighboring valley. The best view is from the bridge. Sparkling Cascade and Sylvan Grove Cataract, on Avalanche Brook, discovered 1858, should be visited, if time permit. The Flume is another cascade, yet farther down the Notch. It descends 250 feet, in two rills, over two precipices, and there are three streams over a land ledge, re-uniting in a small rocky basin below. The DeviTs Den is a mysterious cavern, near the top of Mount Willard, on its southern side, and opposite the Silver and the Flume cascades. Passing westward from the Notch, we reach the valley of the Ammonoosuc, after a distance of four miles, through dense woods, and enter abruptly into a spacious clearing, from which the whole mountain group bursts upon our wondering sight. Here, upon the Giant's Grave, an eminence of some 60 feet, the panorama is mar- velous. In the centre of the amphitheatre of hills, Mount Washington, barren and seamed, and whitened by the win- ter tempests of centuries, looks down, upon the right and upon the left, on the hoary heads of Webster and Madison — each, on its side, the outpost of the mountain army. The Ammonoosuc River, rising in this group of the White Mountains, and followed in the journey toward the Franco- 53 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. nia Hills, is a stream of wonderful beauty. It falls 6,000 feet from its source on the mountain, to the Connecticut River, and is said to be the wildest and most impetuous river in New Hampshire. It abounds in rapids and cascades. The Crystal Falls, of 80 feet, and the Glen Ellis Falls, of 70 feet, are on the Ellis River, the one on the left and the other on the right of the road from Jackson to the Glen House. The Hermit's Lake, Lake of the Clouds (the source of the Ammonoosuc River), Star Lake, and Spaulding 's Lake, are readily reached from the Tip Top House, Mount Wash- ington. The Dixville Hills are in the extreme northern portion of the State, and are as yet but little known. The readiest access is by the Grand Trunk Railway and North Strafford, 36 miles north of Gorham, and thertce up the Connecticut River, via Colebrook, to the Monadnock House. Dixville Notch is 10 miles from Colebrook. We have now peeped hastily at the leading points of in- terest in the grand Granite Hills ; much more, of course, is to be seen than we have space to describe, or even mention. Before closing our chapter, however, we give a tabular list of the principal mountain-hights and objects of interest, with their distances from each other. BEARING AND DISTANCES OF WHITE MOUNTAINS, From Mount Washington, Miles. To Mount Adams 4 N. by E. do Jefferson j N. by W. do Madison 5 N. N. E. do Clay 1 N. W. do Monroe I S. W. do Franklin 2, S. W. do Pleasant 3 S. W. do Clinton 4 S. W. THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 5J HIGHT, 3E \RI.\G, AS'D DISTANCE Of the less important White Mountains, and other mouniains in the vicinity, from Mount Washington. Distance, Iliirht, M L'S. Feet. , Davis's Spur 2 5-40° Notch Range 8 4.500 Willey Mountain 8 4-4°° Mount Jackson 6 4.100 Mount Webster 7 4-°°o Giant's Stairs 8 }. 500 Mount Crawford 9 3-2O0 Mount Moriah 7 4-7°° Franconia Mount 20 5.°°° Mount Lafayette 1; S-ico Twin Mountains 14 4-7oo, S.000 Mount Carigain 14 4.800 Moose-hillock Jl 4& : >° Saddle Mountain 22 4.000 Mount Kinsman 25 ... 4* Io:i Mount Cannon 20 4.000 Mount Whiteface 24 4- IO ° Ch.corua 22 J,6oo Kearsarge 15 i-4°° The Franconia Hills, though in popular estimation inferior in interest to the eastern cluster, are really not so, except it be in the wonders of the mountain ascents ; and even in this, the panorama, from the summit of Lafayette, is scarcely less extensive or less imposing than the scene from the crown of Mount Washington ; while the exquisite little lakes, and the singular natural eccentricities in the Franconia group, have no counterpart in the other. In this, as in other ranges of the White Hills, the mountains are densely wooded at their base, while their rock-ribbed summits are barren, and scarred by time and tempest. The hills approach, at one point, to within half a mile of each other, and form the wild Procrus- tean portal called the Notch. The headquarters for tour- ists to the Franconia Hills during the past season has been the Profile House. The Flume House, it is hoped, will be open this season. 60 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. Mount Lafayette, or the Great Haystack, is the monarch of the Franconia kingdom, towering up skyward to the hight of 5,280 feet. Its lofty pyramidal peaks are the chief objects, in all views, for many miles around. Eagle Cliff is, a magnificently bold and rocky promontory, near Mount Lafayette. It casts its dark shadows down many hundred feet into the glen, traversed by the road be- neath. Cannon, or Profile Mountain, 2,000 feet above the road and 4,000 above the sea, is nearly opposite Lafayette, and forms the western side of the Notch. Upon its crown is a group of mighty rocks, which, as seen from the Profile House below, bear an exact resemblance to a mounted cannon. It is upon this mountain, also, that we find that marvelous freak of Nature, Echo Lake, one of the greatest charms of this part of the White Mountain region. It is a diminutive but very deep and beautiful pond, north of the Cannon Mountain, en- tirely enclosed by high mountains. From the centre of this fairy water, a voice, in ordinary tone, will be echoed distinctly several times, and the report of a gun breaks upon the rocks like the roar of artillery. The Indian superstition was that these echoes were the voice of the Great Spirit, speaking in gentleness or in anger. To the Profile House is half a mile distant. The Profile Rock ; or, tlie Old Man of the Mountain. — This wonderful eccentricity, so admirably counterfeiting a human face, is 80 feet long from the chin to the top of the forehead, and though 1,200 feet above the level of the road, is yet far below the summit of the mount- ain. This strange apparition is formed of three distinct masses of rock, one making the forehead, another the nose and upper lip, and a third the chin. The rocks are brought THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 61 into the proper relation to form the profile, at one point only, viz. : upon the road through the Notch, a quarter of a mile south of the Profile House, The face is boldly and clearly relieved against the sky, and, except in a little senti- ment of weakness about the mouth, has the air of a stern, strong character, well able to bear, as he has done unflinch- ingly for centuries, the scorching suns of summer and the tempest blasts of winter. Passing down the road a little way, the " Old Man " is transformed into a " toothless old woman in a mob cap," and soon after melts into thin air, and is seen no more. Hawthorne has found in this scene the theme of one of the pleasantest of his " Twice-Told Tales"— that called "The Old Stone Face." The Profile Lake is a beautiful little pond, lying at the base of the mountain, and immediately under the ever- watchful eye of the stern " Old Man." This lakelet is some- times called the " Old Man's Wash-bowl." It is a quarter of a mile long and about half as wide. Bald Mountain, to the summit of which a carriage-road has recently been built, affords another pleasant excursion from the Profile House. The Basin, another remarkable scene of this neighbor- hood, is five miles south of the Notch. It lies near the road- side, where the Pemigewasset has worn deep and curious cavities in the solid rocks. The basin is 45 feet in diameter, and 18 feet from the edge to the bottom of the water. It is nearly circular, and has been gradually made by the whirl- ing of rocks round and round in the strong current. The water, as it comes from the basin, falls into most charming cascades. At the outlet, the lower edge of the rocks has been worn into a very remarkable likeness of the human leg and foot, called the " Old Man's Leg." The Flume, the last and most famous, perhaps, of all the 62 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. Franconia wonders, is quickly and easily reached from the Flume House. Leaving the road, just below the Basin, we turn to the left among the hills, and after a tramp of a mile, reach a bare granite ledge ioo feet high and about 30 feet wide, over which a small stream makes its varied way. Near the top of this ledge we approach the ravine known as the Flume. The rocky walls here are 50 feet in hight, and not more than 20 feet apart. Through this grand fissure comes the little brook which we have just seen. Except in sea- sons of freshets, the bed of the stream is narrow enough to give the visitor dry passage up the curious glen, which ex- tends several hundred feet, the walls approaching, near the upper extremity, to within 10 or 11 feet of each other. About midway, a tremendous boulder, several tons in weight, hangs suspended between the cliffs, where it has been caught in its descent from the mountain above. A bridge, dangerous for a timid step, has been sprung across the ravine, near the top, by the falling of a forest-tree. The Pool, a supplemental or tail-piece to the great picture of the Flume, is a deep natural well in the solid rock. A walk of about a mile, directly in front of the Flume House, will conduct the visitor thither. The diameter of the pool is about 60 feet ; the depth to the surface of the water is 150 feet, and the water itself extends 40 feet yet below. Some years ago, a poor fellow was unlucky enough to fall into this Plutonian cul de sac, but he clung to a crag just above the water until ropes were lowered, and he was, wonderful to relate, fished up alive, though bruised and not a little scared. THE ADIRONDACK REGION. 63 ROUTE VI. The Adirondack Region. (For routes, see p, 68.) HE upper part of the State of New York, lying west and south of Lake Champlain and the St. Law- rence River, respectively, is still a wild primitive forest region, of the highest interest to the tourist for its wonderful natural beauties, and for the ample facilities it offers for the pleasures of the rod and the rifle. It consists of a plateau or table land, elevated between 1,500 and 1,800 feet above the ocean level, and is between 80 and 100 miles across. On the north and east, it approaches within 40 miles of the Canada line ; 0:1 the south, within 20 miles of the Mohawk River ; and on the west, within about the sarns distance of the Black River. Its area embraces nearly the whole of Essex, Warren and Hamilton counties, the southwest portion of Clinton, the southern half of Frank- lin, the southeastern third of St. Lawre.ics, the eastern third of Lewis, and the northern half of Herkimer. Fine mountain-peaks stud the whole region, and charm- ing lakes and lakelets are so abundant that travel here is made by water instead of by Ian J — traversing the ponds in 64 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE row-boats or canoes, which are carried by easy portage from one lovely brook or lake to another. This wilderness land, or North Woods, as it is sometimes called, is visited at va- rious points under distinctive names. The northern portion is known as the Chateaugay Woods ; next below are the St. Regis Woods ; then comes the Saranac Lakes and hunting grounds ; then Racquette Lake. Eastward rise the famed Adirondack Hills ; while further to the south and southwest- ward stretch the Lake Pleasant Region and John Brown's Tract. Its entire area is equal to the State of Connecticut. The centre of this plateau embraces all its distinctive features, and is most frequented. It comprises the region of the Sara- nac Lakes, the Racquette River from Racquette Lake to Per- ciefield Falls, and a track round Tupper's Lake. It abounds in beautiful expanses of water, and possesses the loveliest river of the forest, the most romantic cascades, one of the high- est mountains, and, save one, the grandest gorge. The fa- vorite haunts of the moose lie within it ; trout swarm in the brooks, and deer are generally plentiful. As the Saranac Lakes are generally first visited, we will speak of them first. They form the links in the great chain of mountain waters in Northern New York, and are twelve in number. They lie principally in Franklin County, and may be most readily reached by stage from Westport or from Keeseville, about midway on the western shore of Lake Champlain — taking stage or private conveyance thence (30 miles) to the banks of the Lower Saranac, which is the outer edge of civilization in this direction. From Port Kent y on Lake Champlain, to the foot of the Lower Saranac, is an easy day's journey. There is a little village and an inn or two at this point, and here guides and boats, with all proper camp equipage for THE ADIRONDACK REGION. 05 forest life, may be procured. Baker 's, two miles from the Lower Saranac, and Martin's, are pleasant stopping-places. For this route the tourist must engage a boatman, who, for :i compensation of two or three dollars per day — the price will be no more if he should have extra passengers — will provide a boat, with tent and cooking apparatus, dogs, rifles, etc. The tourist will supply, before starting, such stores as coffee, tea, biscuit, etc., and the sport by the way, conducted by himself or by his guide, will keep him furnished with trout and venison. If camp life should not please him, he may, with some little inconvenience, so measure and direct his movements, as to sleep in some one or other of the shanties of the hunters, or of the lumbermen, found here and there on the way. The tent in the forest, however, is greatly preferable. Returning from St. Regis, and back via the Upper to the Middle Saranac, we continue our journey, by portage, to the Stony Creek ponds ; thence three miles by Stony Creek to the Racquette or Racket River — a rapid stream, with wonderful forest vegetation upon its banks. This water, followed for some 20 miles, brings us to Tuppers Lake — the finest part of the Saranac region. Tupper's Lake is the largest of this chain, being seven miles long, and from one to two miles broad. The shores and headlands and islands are especially picturesque and bold, and at this point the deer is much more easily found than elsewhere in the neighborhood. Below Tupper's Lake — the waters commingling — is Lough- neah, another charming pond. The chain continues on yet for miles ; but the Saranac trip proper ends here. This mountain voyage and the return to Lake Chaivplain might be made in a week ; but two or three, or even more, should be given to it. It is seldom that ladiss make the excursion ; 06 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. but they might do so with great delight. The boatmen and hunters of the region are fine, hearty, intelligent, and obliging fellows. That wonderful ravine, the " Walled Banks of the Au Sable," should be seen by the Saranac tourist on his way from Lake Champlain to Keeseville. Hammond, in his ex- cellent work, " Hills, Lakes, and Forest Streams," gives an excellent route from Dannemora, in Clinton County, via Chazy Lake, Bradley's Pond, the Upper Chateaugay, Ragged Lake, Indian and Meacham Lakes, Big Clear Pond, St. Regis Lake, to the Upper Saranac. Leaving the Lower Saranac, we first pass pleasantly some half dozen miles ; then make a short portage, the guide car- rying the huge boat, by a yoke on his back, to the Middle Saranac, whence we may proceed to the upper lake of the same name, and thence by a long portage of three miles to Lake St. Regis. These are all large and beautiful waters, full of picturesque islands, and hemmed in upon all sides by fine mountain ranges. Trout may be taken readily at the inlets of all the brooks, and deer may be found in the forests almost at will. We now come to the Adirondack. This region proper embraces the eastern portion of the plateau which forms the wilderness of northern New York. It may be reached by private conveyance, over a rude mountain road, from Schroon Lake, above Lake George, or more conveniently from Crown Point Village, just beyond the ruins of Fort Ticonderoga, on Lake Champlain. The distance thence is some 30 miles, and requires a day to travel. The Adirondacks (named after the Indian nation which once inhabited these fastnesses) lie chiefly in the county of Essex, though they extend outside the limits of that county. The tourist in this region will move about by land more THE ADIRONDACK REGION. 07 than by water ; for, although the lakes are quite numerous, it is among and upon the hills that the chief attractions are to be found. The accommodations, though still rude enough, are much better than in former years. From Crown Point Village the visitor may make a pleasant journey down Lake Sandford, near by, on one side, and upon Lake Henderson on the other hand. In one he ought to troll for pickerel, and in the other cast his fly for trout ; while upon both he may enjoy glimpses of the famous mountain-peaks of the Adi- rondack group, the cliffs of the Great Indian Pass, of Mounts Co/den and Mclntyre, of Echo Mountain, and other bold scenes. It will be a day's jaunt for him afterward to explore the wild gorge of the Indian Pass, five miles distant ; another day's work to visit the dark and weird waters of Avalanche Lake ; and yet another to reach the Preston Ponds, five miles distant in a different direction. He will find, indeed, occupation enough for many days, in exploring these and many other points which we cannot now catalogue. In any event, he must have two days to do the tramp, par excellence, of the Adirondacks. Mount Marcy, or Tahawus, " The Cloud Splitter," flie monarch of the group, is 5,467 feet high, and somewhat diffi- cult of ascent. Mount Mclntyre has an elevation almost as great. The Dial Mountain, McMartin, and Colden, are also very lofty peaks, impressively seen from the distance, and in- exhaustible in the attractions which their ravines and water- falls present. Blue Mountain, Dix's Peak, Nippletop, Cove Hill, Moore Mountain, White Face, and other grand peaks, belong to the neighboring range called the Keene Mountains. White Face is the most northern, and, except Mount Marry, the loftiest of the wilderness crests. From its summit thirty lakes may be seen. Lake Pleasant. — To reach Lake Pleasant and the 08 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. adjoining waters of Round, Piseco, and Louis Lake — a favor- ite and enchanting summer resort and sporting ground — the tourist should take the Central Railway from Albany, 33 miles to Amsterdam, thence by stage or carriage to Holmes s Hotel, on Lake Pleasant. The distance from Amsterdam is about 30 miles. The stage stops over night at a village, en route. Mr. Holmes's house is an excellent place, with no absurd luxuries, but with every comfort for which the true sportsman can wish. It is a delightful summer home for the student, and may be visited very satisfactorily by ladies The wild lands and waters hereabout form part of the lake region of Northern New York, of which we have already seen something on the Saranacs and among the Adirondacks. The Saranac region is connected with Lake Pleasant by in- termediate waters and portages. Deer and other game are abundant in the forests, and fine trout may be taken in all the brooks and lakes. Lake Pleasant and its picturesque surroundings lie in Hamilton County. The following synopsis of routes to the different parts of the Wilderness, is gleaned mainly from Alfred B. Street's excellent work, " Woods and Waters," which the traveler in that region will find invaluable. Approved Routes into tlie Northern Wilder- ness, from Eastern, Southern, and Western New York. I.— INTO THE CHATEAUGAY WOODS. 1st. From Plattsburg to Dannemora State Prison and Chazy Lake, 25 to 30 miles. 2d. From Rouse's Point to Chateaugay Four Corners and Chateaugay Lakes. THE ADIRONDACK REGION. 69 II.— INTO THE SARANAC REGION. 3d. By steamboat to Port Kent (or steamboat or railroad to Burlington, opposite), on Lake Champlain ; thence by post-coach to Keeseville (Essex County), four miles. The Au Sable House is open all summer, and has excellent ac- commodation and cheer for visitors. From Keeseville, 16 miles, to Baker s Saranac Lake House, two miles short of the Lower Saranac Lake ; or to Martins, on the banks of the Lower Saranac ; or to Bart/ett's, between Round Lake and Upper Saranac Lake, 13 miles from Martin's. The Keeseville road is a good traveling road, planked from Keeseville to Franklin Falls, 30 miles from Keeseville. The tourist should remain in Keeseville long enough to visit the famous Au Sable Chasm, two miles from the village. The Chasm House, just by the Great Fall, affords suitable accom- modation. At the village of Au Sable Forks, 12 miles from Keeseville, the visitor can turn off into a road through the village of Jay, intersecting the Elizabethtown road, about 12 miles from Baker's. This road leads through the famous White Face or Wilmington Notch. 4th. By steamboat to Westport, on Lake Champlain. Thence to Elizabethtown, and thence to Baker's, or Bartlett's, or Martin's. This route is about the same distance as the Keeseville route, but the road is by no means so good. III.— INTO THE ADIRONDACK, RACOUETTE, AND HUDSON RIVER REGIONS. 5th. From Crown Point, on Lake Champlain, to Roofs, about 20 miles. From Root's to the Adirondack Lower Works, 20 miles ; thence to Long Lake, 20 miles. A stage runs from Root's to Long Lake, usually once a week during 70 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. the summer. From the Lower Works to the Adirondack village or Upper Works, by water (through Lake Sanford), 10 or 12 miles ; by road, distance about the same. From the Upper Works to Mount Tahawus (Mount Marcy), four miles, and three miles to the top. From the Upper Works to the famous Indian Pass (the most majestic natural wonder, next to Niagara, in the State), four miles. From the Indian Pass to Scotfs, on the Elizabethtown road (through the wood, with scarcely a path), seven miles ; thence to Baker's (over a road), 14 miles. 6th. From Glenn's Falls to Roofs, over a good road, 30 miles, viz. : from Glenn's Falls to Lake George, nine miles ; thence to Warrensburg, six miles ; thence to Chester, eight or ten miles ; thence to Pottersville, six or eight miles ; thence to Root's, and thence to Long Lake, or the Lower or the Upper "Works ; or, from Pottersville to the Boras River, 15 miles. 7th. From Carthage, in Jefferson County (by way of the Beach Road), to Long Lake, 40 to 50 miles ; thence to Pen- dleton, 10 miles ; thence to Hudson River Bridge, about five miles ; thence to the Lower Works, about five miles. Can drive the whole distance from Carthage to the Lower Works. 8th. From Fort Edward to Glenn's Falls and Lake George ; thence to Johnsburg ; thence to North Creek ; thence to Eagle Lake or Tallow Lake (the middle of the three Blue Mountain Lakes). From North Creek to Eagle Lake, the distance is 20 miles. qth. By road from Saratoga Springs to Lakes Pleasant and Piseco. THE ADIRONDACK REGION. 71 IV.— INTO THE JOHN BROWN'S TRACT. ioth. From Utica by railroad to Booneville ; thence tc Lyonsdale and Port Leyden, 7 miles by stage road ; thence to Deacon Abby's Place, .5^- miles, over a good road ; thence to Arnold's (over rather a poor road, although pass- able by wagon), 14 miles. nth. From Utica by railroad to Booneville; thence to Booth's Mills, n miles, over a good wagon road ; thence to Arnold's, by pack-horses (sent by Arnold to Booth's Mills), i%\ miles, over rather a rough road. 1 2th. From Utica by railroad to Alder Creek ; thence by road to the Reservoir Lakes. 13th. From the village of Prospect (Oneida County, reached by railroad), through Herkimer County, to More- house, in Hamilton County. 14th. From Ogdensburg to Potsdam, on the Racquette River, by Ogdensburg and Lake Champlain Railroad ; thence to Colton by stage, 10 miles ; thence to the foot of the Little Bog, at McEwen's, on the Racquette River, 12 miles, by private conveyance, over a good road ; thence by boat 1 V miles, to Bolj Falls ; thence a short portage on east side of river ; thence to Harris's piace, 4! miles, opposite the mouth of the Jordan River; the> ze 3} miles by wagon road to John Ferry's; thence three miles farther on, same road, to foot of Moose- Head Still Water ; thence through the latter, six miles ; thence nine miles to Racquette Pond ; and thence five miles to Big Tapper's Lake, 72 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. ROUTE VII. Niagara Falls. HOUGH recently robbed of its long-enjoyed pre- eminence as the greatest of American cataracts, Niagara still holds, by right of old acquaintance, the first place in popular regard. Travelers over the great Continental Railway, which now stretches its iron bands from ocean to ocean, will step aside to feast their wondering eyes upon the Falls of the Great Snake River, in Oregon. And the voyageur to the Pacific, as he recounts to the curious and expectant crowds at home his experience in the famed Yo-semite, at Yo-wi-he, Bridal Veil, and Pi-wy-ack, will yet turn, with all the tenderness and trust of a first love, to Niagara, hallowed as it is by as- sociation, and endeared through many a long year of pil- grimage and many a page of poesy. We cannot easily efface the impression which the first view of the mighty tempest of waters left on our mind ; nor would we, if we could. Higher waterfalls there are ; greater volumes of water there may be ; but there is certainly none which presents to the eye of the beholder, on so grand and impressive a scale, all the elements which combine to form a picture at once Striking and permanently suggestive. Until NIAGARA FALLS. 73 commerce and the roving propensities of our people shall so populate the Great West as to render it possible to deter- mine reliably the wonders of the Rocky Mountains and Col- orado region, Niagara will continue to hold its proud posi- tion. The Falls are situated on tne river of the same name, a strait connecting the floods of Lakes Erie and Ontario, and dividing a portion of the State of New York, on the west, from the province of Canada. The cataracts thus lie within the territory both of Great Britain and the United States. They are some 20 miles below the entrance of the river, at the northeast extremity of Lake Erie, and about 14 miles above its junction with Lake Ontario. The River Niagara (signifying, in the Iroquois language, "Thunder of Waters") takes its rise in the western ex- tremity of Lake Erie, and after flowing 33} miles, enters Lake Ontario, which is 334 feet below Lake Erie. The waters for which the Niagara is the outlet cover an area of 150,000 square miles — floods so grand and inexhaustible as to be utterly unconscious of the loss of the hundred millions of tons which they pour every hour, through succeeding cen- turies, over these stupendous precipices. In approaching the Falls by the accustomed route — over the Central Railway to the Suspension Bridge— the Ameri- can traveler will, in favorable weather, just hear the roar of its mighty waters, a few miles from the town of Lo:kport, situated on the Rochester division of the Central Railway, 21 miles east of the Falls. The best approach to the Falls is that most usually taken, viz., by the American shore. " The descent of about 200 feet, by the staircase, brings the traveler directly under the shoulder and edge of the American Fall, the most irn~ 74 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. posing scene, for a single object, that he probably has ever witnessed. The long column of sparkling water seems h as he stands near it, to descend to an immeasurable depth, and the bright sea-green curve above has the appearance of being set into the sky. The tremendous power of the fall, as well as the hight, realizes his utmost expectations. He descends to the water's edge and embarks in a ferry-boat, which tosses like an egg-shell on the heaving and convulsed water, and in a minute or two he finds himself in the face of the vast line of the Falls, and sees with surprise that he has ex- pended his fullest admiration and astonishment upon a mere thread of Niagara — the thousandth part of its wondrous vol- ume and grandeur. From the point where he crosses to Table Rock, the line of the Falls measures three-quarters of a mile in length ; and it is this immense extent which, more than any other feature, takes the traveler by surprise. The current at the ferry sets very strongly down, and the athletic men who are employed here keep the boat up against it with difficulty. Arrived near the opposite landing, how- ever, there is a slight counter-current, and the large rocks near the shore serve as a breakwater, behind which the boat runs smoothly to her moorings." The passage is now safely and pleasantly made by the steamer " Maid of the Mist." It is from the American side of the river that access is had to the hundred points of interest and surprise in the famous Goat Island vicinage, with its connecting bridges, its views of the Rapids, of the Cave of the Winds, of the scene of Sam Patch's great leap, and of its bold over-topping tower ; and in other neighborhoods, of the Whirlpool, of the Chasm Tower, and the Devil's Hole. A totally different and not less wonderful gallery of nat- NIAGARA FALLS. 75 ural master-pieces is opened upon the Canada shore — the terrible marvels of the Table Rock above, and of Termina- tion Rock behind the Horse-Shoe Fall ; the noble panorama from the piazzas of the Clifton House, the Burning Spring, the historical village of Chippewa, and the battle-field of Lundy's Lane, Bender's Cave, etc. Goat Island (American side.) — Leaving the Cataract House, take the first left-hand street, two minutes' walk to the bridge, which leads to the toll-gate on Bath Island. This bridge is itself an object of wonder, in its apparently rash and dangerous position. It is, however, perfectly safe, and is crossed hourly by heavy-laden carriages. The Rapids, as seen on the way to Goat Island, are impres- sive. The river descends 51 feet in a distance of three-quar- ters of a mile by this inextricable turmoil of waters. It is one of the most striking features of the Niagara scenery. Standing on the bridge, and gazing thence up the angry torrent, the leaping crests seem like "a battle-charge of tempestuous waves animated and infuriated against the sky. Nearer the plunge of the Fall, the Rapids become still more agitated, and it is impossible for the spectator to rid himself of the idea that they are conscious of the abyss to which they arc hurrying, and struggle back in the very extremity of horror. This propensity to invest Niagara with a soul and human feel- ings is a common effect upon the minds of visitors, in every part of its wonderful phenomena. The torture of the Rapids, the clinging curves with which they embrace the small rocky islands that live amid the surge ; the sudden calmness at the brow of the cataract,and the infernal writhe and whiteness with which they re-appear, powerless from the depths of the aln ss — all seem, to the excited imagination of the gazer, like the 76 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. natural effects of impending ruin — desperate resolution and fearful agony on the minds and frames of mortals." Chaphis Island is upon the right of the bridge, within a short distance of the American Fall. It is named in memory of a workman whose life was imperilled by falling into the stream, as he was laboring upon the bridge. Mr. Robinson went gallantly and successfully to his relief in a skiff. The Toll Gate is upon Bath Island, where baths, warm and otherwise, are accessible at all times to visitors. A fee of 25 cents paid here, gives you the freedom of Goat Island, during all your stay, be it for the year or less. Near this point are Ship and Big islands. There is here a very exten- sive paper-mill. Crossing another small bridge, we stand upon Iris Island. (See Prospect Tower.) The only place of habitation here is a house at which the traveler can sup- ply himself with refreshments of all inviting kinds, and store his trunks with every variety of samples of Indian ingenuity and labor. The place is called the Indian Emporium. Three routes over the island diverge at this point. The principal path followed by most visitors is that to the right, which keeps the best of the sights, as Wisdom always does, until the last, affording less striking views of the Falls than do the other routes at first, but far surpassing them both in its grand finale. This way conducts to the foot of the island, while the left-hand path seeks the head, and the middle winds across. Taking the right-hand path, then, from the Toll Gate, we come, first, to the centre Fall, called The Cave of the Winds (see Termination Rock), mid-distant nearly between the American and the Horse-Shoe Falls. This wonderful scene is best and most securely enjoyed from the spacious flat rock beneath. The cave is 100 feet high, and of the same extent in width. You can pass safely into the NIAGARA FALLS. 77 recess behind the water, to a platform beyond. Magical rainbow-pictures are formed at this spot ; sometimes bows of entire circles, and two or three at once, are seen. At the foot of Goat Island the Three Profiles form an object of cu- rious interest. These profiles, seemingly some two feet long, are to be seen, one directly above the other, as you look across the first sheet of water, directly under the lowest point of rock. They are sometimes called the Three Sisters. Luna Island is reached by a foot bridge, from the right of Goat Island. It has an area of some three-quarters of an acre. The effective rainbow forms, seen at this point, have given it the name it bears. A child of eight years once fell into the torrent, at this point, and was lost, together with a gallant lad who jumped in to rescue her. Biddies Stairs, on the west side of the island, was named after Nicholas Bid- die, of United States Bank fame, by whose order they were built. " Make us something," he is reported to have said to the workmen, "by which we may descend and see what is below." At the base of these spiral stairs, which are se- cured to the rocks by strong iron fastenings, there are two diverging paths. The «/-river way, toward the Hors2-Shoe Fall, is difficult, and much obstructed by fallen rocks ; but down the current a noble view is gained of the centre fall or Cave of the Winds. Sam Patch's Leap.— It was upon the west side of Goat Island, near Biddle's Stairs, that the re- nowned jumper, Sam Patch, made two successful leaps into the waters below, saying, as he went off, to the throng of spectators, that " one thing might be done as well as ano- ther !" The fellow made one jump too much, within the same year (1829), over the Genesee Falls, at Rochester. Re-ascending the Biddle Stairs, we come, after a few rods' travel, to a resting-place at a little house, and thence we go 78 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. down the bank, and crossing a bridge, reach Prospect (Ter- rapin) Tower. This precarious-placed edifice, which seems to have " rushed in, as fools do, where angels fear to tread," is on Iris Island, very near the edge of the precipice, above which it rises some 45 feet in the air. From the top, which is surrounded by an iron railing, a magnificent scene is pre- sented — a panorama of the Niagara wonders — the like of which can be seen from ro other point. Here a register for visitors is kept. The Iiorse-Slioe Fall — always marvelous, from whatever position it is viewed — forms the connecting link between the scenes of the American and Canadian sides of the river. This mighty cataract is 144 rods across, and it is said by Professor Lyell that fifteen hundred millions of cubic feet of water pass over its ledges every hour. One of the condemned lake ships (the Detroit) was sent over this fall in 1829, and, though she drew over 18 feet of water, she did not touch the rocks in passing over the brink of the preci- pice, showing a solid body of water, at least some twenty feet deep, to be above the ledge. We shall return to the Horse-Shoe Fall from the Canada side. Gull Island, just above, is an unapproachable spot, upon which it is not likely or possible that man has ever yet stood. There are three other small isles seen from here, called the Three Sisters. Near the Three Sisters, on Goat Island, is the spot remembered as the resort of an eccentric character, and called, after him, the Bathing-Place of Francis Abbott the Hermit. At the head of Goat Island is Navy Island, near the Canada shore. It was the scene of incidents in the Canadian rebellion of 1837-38, known as the McKenzie War. Chippewa, which held at that period some 5,000 British troops, is upon the Canadian shore, nearly opposite. NIAGARA FALLS. 79 It was near Fort Schlossjr, hard by, that, about this period, the American steamboat Caroline was set on fire, and sent over the Falls, by the order of Col. McXabb, a British officer. Some fragments of the wreck lodged on Gull Island, where they remained until the following spring. Grand Island, which contains n,ooo acres, was the. spot on which Major M. M. Noah hoped to assemble all the Hebrew populations of the world. Near the ferry there was once an observatory or pagoda, ioo feet high, from which a grand view of the region was gained. This spot is called Point View. The Whirlpool. — Three miles below the Falls (American side) is the Whirlpool, resembling in its appearance the celebrated Maelstrom on the coast of Norway. It is oc- casioned by the river making nearly a right angle, while it is here narrower than at any other place, not being more than 30 rods wide, and the current running with such velocity as to rise up in the middle several feet above the sides. This has been ascertained by measurement. There is a path leading down the bank to the Whirlpool on both sidss, and, though somewhat difficult to descend and ascend, it is accomplished almost every day. The Devils Hole is a mile below the Whirlpool. It em- braces about two acres, cut out laterally and perpendicularly in the rock by the side of the river, and is 150 feet deep. An angle of this hole or gulf comes within a few feet of the stage-road, affording travelers an opportunity, without alight- ing, of looking into the yawning abyss. But they should alight, and pass to the farther side of the flat projecting rock, where they will feel themselves richly repaid for their trouble. Into the Devil's Hole falls a stream known by the unpoetical name of the Bloody Run. 80 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. Cliasiil Tower, three and a half miles below the Falls, is 75 feet high, and commands fine views (seen, if you please, in all hues, through a specular medium) of all the country round. A fee is required. The Suspension Bridge spans the river two miles below the Falls. Its total length, from centre to centre of the towers, is 800 feet ; its hight above the water, 25 S feet. The first bridge, which was built by Mr. Charles Ellett, was a very light and fairy-like affair, in comparison with the present substantial structure. The bridge, as it now stands, was constructed under the direction of Mr. John A. Roebling, at a cost of $500,000. The same able architect and engineer has recently completed the suspen- sion bridge across the Ohio, at Cincinnati. The towers are 66 feet high, 15 feet square at the base, and 8 feet at the top. The bridge is supported by four cables, each being nine and a half inches in diameter, and composed of 8,000 wires. It was first crossed by the locomotive, March 8. 1855. Twenty- eight feet below the floor of the railway tracks, a carriage and footway is suspended. This bridge is used at present, by the New York Central, the Erie, and the Great Western (Canada) roads. Having examined the bridge, we will now cross it to the opposite shore. Taking a carriage at our hotel, on the American side, we may " do " the Canadian shore very com- fortably between breakfast and dinner, if we have no more time to spare. The regular price of carriage hire at the livery stable is one dollar per hour. Make your contract when you engage, as overcharges are fashionable. On the plank road, going and returning, the toll is five cents ; at the bridge, for each foot passenger, going and returning the same day, 25 cents, or 12J cents each way ; if the passenger does not return, the bridge toll is still 25 cents. For each NIAGARA FALLS. 81 carriage (two horses), going and returning, 50 cents for each passenger, and 50 cents besides for the carriage. A plank road leads froiri the opposite terminus of the bridge to the Clifton House. At the bridge is shown a basket in which Mr. Ellett, his wife, and other ladies and gentlemen, crossed over the river on a single wire, about one inch in diameter — a perilous journey across such a gorge and at an elevation in the air of 280 feet ! Two or three persons thus crossed at a time, the basket being let down on an inclined plane to the centre of the towers (this was during the building of the first suspension bridge), and then drawn up by the help of a windlass to the opposite side. The usual time in crossing was from three to four minutes. By the means of this basket the lives of four men were once saved, when the planks of the foot-bridge were blown off in a violent storm, and they were suspended over the river by only two strands of wire, which oscillated with immense rapidity 60 or 70 feet. The basket was sent to their relief, at a moment when the hurricane grew less fearful, and they descended into it by means of a ladder, one at a trip only, until all were released from their terrible position. The ex- ploits of Blondin and Leslie, with which our readers are all doubtless familiar, have since thrown these ventures far in the shade. Bender's Cave is midway between the Suspension Bridge and the Clifton House. It is a recess six feet high and twenty in length, made by a decomposition of the limestone. The Clifton House is an old and very favorite resort here, famed for its home luxuries and for its noble position, over- looking the river and Falls. It was the residence of Mdlle. Jennv Lind during her visit to Niagara. It stands nearly opposite the centre of the irregular crescent formed by the 6 82 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. Falls ; but it is so far back from the line of the arc, that the hight and grandeur of the two cataracts, to an eye un- acquainted with the scene, are respectively diminished. After once making the tour of the points of view, however, the distance and elevation of the hotel are allowed for by the eye, and the situation seems most advantageous. Table Rock exists now only in name and the sort of post- humous interest which attaches to the spot where it stood. The grand overhanging platform called Table Rock, and the fearful abysmal scene at the very base of the mighty Horse-Shoe Fall, once constituted one of the cardinal won- ders of Niagara. This famous rock fell in 1862 ; but the vicinity is still a place much resorted to by visitors at the Falls. If one would listen to the terrible noise of the great cataract, let him come here, where the sound of its hoarse utterance drowns all lesser sounds, and his own speech is inaudible to himself. Termination Rock occupies a recess behind the centre of the Horse-Shoe Fall, reached by the descent of a spiral stair- way from Table Rock, the traverse for a short distance of the rude marge of the river, and then of a narrow path over a frightful ledge, and through the blinding spray, behind the mighty fall. Before descending, visitors should make a complete change of toilet for a rough costume more suitable for the stormy and rather damp journey before them. When fully equipped, their ludicrous appearance excites, for a while, a mirthful feeling, in singular contrast with the solemn sentiment of all the scene around them. This strange expe- dition, often made even by ladies, has been thus described : " The guide went before, and we followed close under the cliff. A cold, clammy wind blew strong in our faces from the moment we left the shelter of the staircase, and a few steps NIAGARA FALLS. 83 brought us into a pelting fine rain, that penetrated even- opening of our dresses and made our foothold very slippery and difficult. We were not yet near the sheet of water we were to walk through ; but one or two of the party gave out and returned, declaring it was impossible to breathe ; and the rest, imitating the guide, bent nearly double to keep the beating spray from their nostrils, and pushed on, with enough to do to keep sight of his heels. We arrived near the diffi- cult point of our progress ; and in the midst of a confusion of blinding gusts, half-deafened, and more than half-drowned, the guide stopped to give us a hold of his skirts, and a little counsel. All that could be heard amid the thunder of the cataract beside us was an injunction to push on when it got to the worst, as it was shorter to get beyond the sheet than to go back ; and with this pleasant statement of our dilem- ma, we faced about with the longest breath we could draw, and encountered the enemy. It may be supposed that every person who has been dragged through the column of water which obstructs the entrance to the cavern behind this cata- ract, has a very tolerable idea of the pains of drowning. What is wanting in the density of the element is more than made up by the force of the contending winds, which rush into the mouth, eyes and nostrils, as if flying from a water- fiend. The ' courage of worse behind ' alone persuades the gasping sufferer to take one desperate step more." The Museum, near Table Rock, contains more than 10,000 specimens of minerals, birds, fishes and animals, many of which were collected in the neighborhood of the Falls. Admittance — which includes the use of the dress, and ad- mittance to the Cave of the Winds, 50 cents. The Burning Spring is near the water, two miles above the Falls. The carbonated sulphuretted hydrogen gas here gives out a bril- 84 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. liant flame when lighted. The hight of the American Fall is 164 feet, that of the Canadian or Horse-Shoe, 150 feet ; the former is 900 feet across, the latter 1,900. The roar of the waters has been heard at Toronto, 44 miles away, and yet in some states of wind and atmosphere it is scarcely per- ceptible in the immediate neigborhood. Niagara presents a new and most unique aspect in winter, when huge icicles hang from the precipices, and immense frozen piles of a thousand fantastic shapes glitter in the bright sunlight. Father Hennepin, a Jesuit missionary, was the first Euro- pean who ever saw Niagara. His first visit was in 1678. In the vicinity of Niagara is Lewistoit, seven miles distant, at the head of navigation on Lake Ontario, and directly opposite Lewiston is Queenstown. Queenstown is well worthy a visit from the sojourner at the Falls, and affbrds a most delightful drive. It is historically as well as pictorially interesting. Here General Brock and his aid-de-camp Mc- Donnell fell, October 11, 1812. Brock's Monument, which crowns the hights above the village, is 185 feet high, sur- mounted by a dome of nine feet, which is reached by a spi- ral flight of 250 steps, from the base inside. The remains of Brock and his comrade lie in stone sarcophagi beneath, having been removed thither from Fort George. This is the second monument erected on the spot, the first having been destroyed by Lett, in 1840. THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. g5 ROUTE VIII. The St. Lawrence River. IAGARA, and then the St. Lawrence ! No more fitting sequel to a sojourn at the Great Cataract I than a sail down Lake Ontario and its majestic outlet to the ocean — the St. Lawrence. The " St. Lawrence Tour," as it is generally known, may be properly commenced by the American tourist either at Montreal, Quebec or Niagara, the selection of a starting-point being determined in most cases by the line of travel selected before leaving home. Each has its peculiar advantages ; but that down the river from the Falls is recommended as affording the finest views, and, at the season at which it is usually taken, the most favorable weather for sight-seeing. We will suppose the traveler to be leaving Niagara about the beginning or middle of August, intending to visit Mont- real, Quebec, and the Saguenay, and to find his way back into the Union again, via Portland or the White Mountains. From Niagara, eastward, the traveler has choice of four routes — three by rail and steamer, one by steamer direct. First, over the Central Railway via Charlotte ; second, via Syracuse and Osvego ; third, via Rome and Sackett's Har- S6 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. bor ; and fourth, by the American fast line of steamers on Lake Ontario, through, with one change at Ogdensburg, to Montreal. There is still another, which has become popular of late years, viz., that by boat across the western end of the lake to Toronto, and thence by Grand Trunk Railway to Montreal. Those desirous of avoiding the lake and of "doing" Can- ada, may go by the Great Western Railway, via St. Catharine, to Hamilton, and thence by branch road, 38 miles, to Toronto. On the whole, however, for the large majority of tourists, the direct boat route from Lewiston to Ogdensburg and Mont- real will be found much the best. The majority of Ameri- can travelers in Canada, however, proceed first to Montreal, and extend their tour on the Upper and Lower St. Lawrence from that point, and for their convenience we will make that our starting-point. Montreal, the metropolis of British North America, is situ- ated on an island of the same name, about thirty miles long and ten wide, which is formed by a branch of the Ottawa on the north and the St. Lawrence on the south, and lies at the foot of a mountain, to which Jacques Carrier, in 1535, survey- ing with delight the magnificent prospect, gave the name of " Mont Royal." The present site of Montreal was occupied,, at the time of Cartier's first visit, by an Indian village called Hochelaga. In 1542 the first European settlers arrived, and just one century later the original Indian name, consequent on the consecration of the spot on which the future city was to stand, and its commendation to La Reine des Anges, gave place to the French one of " Ville Marie." This new name, in its turn, was replaced by the present one, in 1760, the date of British possession, at which period Montreal had become a well-peopled and well-fortified town. Its population is now THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. §7 (1869) estimated at 145,000, and is rapidly on the increase. The main branch of the Ottawa, which is the timber highway to Quebec, passes North of Montreal Island, and enters the St. Lawrence about 18 miles below the city ; about one-third of its waters is, however, discharged into Lake St. Louis, and joining but not mingling at Caughnawaga, the two dis- tinct bodies pass over the Scult St. Louis and Lachine Rapids — the dark waters of the Ottawa washin ; the quays of Montreal, while the blue St. Lawrence occupies the other shore. Nor do they merge their distinctive character until they are several miles below Montreal. The quays of Mont- real are unsurpassed by those of any city in America; built of solid limestone, and uniting with the locks and cut-stone wharves of the Lachine Canal, the)' - present for several miles a display of continuous masonry, which has few parallels. Unlike the levees of the Ohio and the Mississippi, no un- sightly warehouses disfigure the river-side — a broad espla- nade or terrace, built of limestone, the parapets of which are surmounted with a substantial iron railing. The houses in the suburbs are handsomely built in the modern style, and mostly inhabited by the wealthy merchants. Including its suburbs, of which it has several, the city stretches along the river for two miles, from southwest to northeast, and for some distance extends between one and two miles inland. St. Paul Street, the chief commercial thoroughfare, extends along the river the whole length of the cit)\ Great St. James and Notre-Dame streets are the fashionable promenades. Montreal, with its beautiful villas, its glittering roofs and domes (all the latter being covered with tin), its tall spires and lofty towers, and its majestic mountain in the background, bursting on the eye of the tourist, approach it from what direction he may, forms, 88 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. together with the noble river, a vast and picturesque pano- rama, that is, perhaps, unequalled on the whole American continent. Montreal is conspicuous among the cities of the New World for the number and magnificence of her public build- ings. The principal of these is the Cathedral de JVotre-Dame, said to be the largest church on the continent. The cost of the cathedral was $400,000, and it is capable of seating 10,000 persons. It is surmounted by two stately towers, each 220 feet high, from the top of which is a complete view of the city, of the River St. Lawrence, the colossal tubular bridge, and the blue hills of Vermont in the distance. At certain hours of the day a chime of bells peal forth their merry notes from the northeast tower, and from the north- west is sometimes heard the hoarse, hollow tone of the " Gros Bourdon," which weighs 29,400 pounds. This noble edifice is 255 feet long and 135 broad. The Bonsecours Market is an imposing Doric edifice, erected at a cost of $300,000, and, as regards the convenience of its arrangements and the spaciousness of its construction, it throws into the shade all similar structures on this continent. In one of the upper stories are the offices of the Corporation and Council Chamber, and a concert or ball room capable of accommo- dating 4,000 people. The view from the dome, overlooking the river and St. Helen's Isle, is very fine. The Nelson Monument, an elegant column erected to the memory of that renowned naval hero, stands at the head of the Place Jacques Cartier. The Seminary of St. Sulpice, adjoining the Cathedral Notre Dame, is 132 feet long and 29 deep, and is surrounded by spacious gardens and court-yards. The Bank of Montreal and the City Bank, the first a fine THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 89 example of Corinthian architecture, stand side by side on the Place d'Armes. St. Patrick's Church occupies a commanding position at the west end of Lagauchetiere Street. The Bishop's Church (Catholic), in St. Denis Street, is a very elegant structure. The remaining Catholic churches are the Recollect, in Notre- Dame Street, the Bonsecours, near the large market, and St. Mary's, in Griffintown. There are also chapels attached to all the nunneries, in some of which excellent pictures may be seen. The Gray Nuns, in Foundling Street, was founded in 1692, for the care of lunatics and children. The Hotel Dieu was established in 1644, for the sick generally. The Black or Congregational Nunnery, in Notre-Dame Street, dates from 1659. The stranger desirous of visiting either of the nun- neries should apply to the Lady Superior for admission, which is seldom refused. The Protestant churches worthy of notice are St. Andrew's Church, a beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture, being a close imitation of Salisbury Cathedral, in England, though of course on a greatly reduced scale. This, with St. Paul's C/ntrch'm St. Helen Street, are in connection with the Estab- lished Church of Scotland. The Episcopalian churches are, the beautiful new edifice, Christ Church Cathedral, St. George ' s C/iurch, in St. Joseph Street, St. Stephen's^ in Griffintown, Trinity, in St. Paul Street, and St. Thomas's, in St. Mary Street. The Church of the Independent, in Radegonde Street, is his- torically interesting as the scene of the sad riot and loss of life on the occasion of Gavazzi's lecture, in 1852. The newly- erected Jesuit Church, in Bleury Street, has the most highly ornamented interior to be found in the city. The Free Church has also two places of worship, one in Cote Street, 90 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. and one in St. Gabriel Street ; besides these there are the American and the United Presbyterian, the Baptist, and the Unitarian churches, and a small Jewish synagogue, the last named being classical in design. The Court-House is one of the most striking of the architectural specialties of the city. The Post-Office is in Great James Street. The Custom- House is a neat building on the site of an old market-place, between St. Paul Street and the river. The Merchants' Exchange and Reading-Room are in St. Sacrament Street. The latter is a large and comfortable room, well supplied with newspapers and periodicals, English and American, all at the service of the stranger, when properly introduced. The General Hospital and St. Patrick's Hospital are in Dorchester Street, the latter, however, at the west end of the town. McGiil's College is beautifully situated at the base of the mountain. The Water-works, located a mile or so from the city, are worth visiting. The Victoria Bridge, which spans the great St. Lawrence River, is " the lion " par excellence of Montreal, the link of the Grand Trunk Railway, connecting (for railway purposes only) the city of Montreal, on the island, with the main-land to the south, giving to the ancient Hochelaga an unbroken railway communication of 1,100 miles in length, besides " con- nections." It is the grandest structure of its kind in the world. Its length is 9,194 feet, or nearly 2 miles. It rests upon 24 piers and 2 abutments of solid masonry, the central span being 330 feet in length. The heavy iron tube through which the railway track is laid, is, in its largest dimensions, 22 feet high and 16 feet wide. The total cost of this bridge was $6,300,000 It was formally opened by the Prince of Wales during his visit to America, in the summer of i860. THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 91 The Museum of the Natural History Society, near the Crystal Palace, is well worth seeing. The Mount Royal Cemetery is prettily located 2 miles from the city, on the northern slope of the mountain. A few days spent in Montreal, will suffice to see all its main features and objects of interest. Leaving Montreal for the upper St. Lawrence, the traveler will soon reach Tlie Ottawa River, which flows 800 miles, and enters the St. Lawrence on both sides of the island of Montreal, traversing in its way Lake Temi seaming, Grand Lake, and others. Rapids and falls greatly impede the navigation of its waters, but lend to them wonderful beauty. The Valley of the Ottawa is yet a wild forest region, but little occupied save by the rude lumbermen, though numerous settlements are now springing up, and its agricultura 1 capacities are be- ing developed. OTTAWA CITY, the Capital of the new Dominion, is handsomely built. It was laid out in 1823 by Colonel By, whence its original name of Bytown. It is divided into Lower Town, Central Town, and Upper Town. On Barrack Hill, in many respects a counterpart of the citadel of Quebec, are situated the Parliament and departmental buildings. These are all in the Italian-Gothic style, and are built of a kind of stone found in the vicinity. There is connected with the legis- lative halls a library capable of containing 300,000 volumes. Among the other principal public edifices may be mentioned the Roman Catholic Church, one of the handsomest in Can- ada, the Queen's Printing-House, and numerous other buildings contributing to the stable appearance of the city. Tlie Rideau Falls, near the moulh of the Rideau, just below the city of Ottawa, afford some charming scenery A mile lower down, the Ottawa receives, from the north, its 92 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. greatest tributary, the Gatineau, which, with a course proba- bly of 420 miles, drains an area of 12,000 square miles. For about 200 miles the upper course of this river is in the un- known northern country. At the farthest point surveyed, 217 miles from its mouth, the Gatineau is still a noble stream, a thousand feet wide, diminished in depth but not in width. Eighteen miles lower down, the Riviere au Lievre enters from the north, after running a course of 260 miles in length, and draining an area of 4,100 miles. Fifteen miles below it, the Ottawa receives the North and South Nation rivers on either side, the former 95 and the latter 100 miles in length. Twenty-two miles farther, the River Rouge, 90 miles long, enters from the north. Twenty-one miles lower, the Riviere du Nord, 160 miles in length, comes in on the same side ; and, lastly, just above its mouth, it receives the River As- sumption, which has a course of 130 miles. From Ottawa City, the river is navigable to Grenville, a distance of 58 miles, where the rapids that occur for 12 miles are avoided by a succession of canals. Twenty-three miles lower, at one of the mouths of the Ottawa, a single lock, to avoid a slight rapid, gives a passage into Lake St. Louis, an expansion of the St. Lawrence above Montreal. The remaining half of the Ottawa's waters find their way to the St. Lawrence by passing in two channels, behind the Island of Montreal and the Isle of Jesus, in a course of 31 miles. They are inter- rupted with rapids ; still it is by one of them that all the Ottawa lumber passes to market. Steamers run daily, du- ring the summer months, between Montreal and Ottawa City, and Kingstown and Ottawa, via the Rideau Canal. Above Ottawa City, the traveller may proceed, by carriage or by stage, nine miles, to the village of Aylmer, and thence by steamer to the Chats ; thence by railway, two miles ; THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 93 then again by steamer to the Portage du Fort ; now, wagons for a while, and then again a steamer to Pembroke, and yet another from thence to Deux Joachims ; afterward, he must canoe it. The Ottawa may also be reached by railway di- rect, from Prescott on the St. Lawrence to Ottawa City. The distance from Prescott to Ottawa City is 54 miles, and from Montreal 126 miles. 94 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. ROUTE IX. Up The St. Lawrence. HE traveller may go from Montreal to Niagara, as already intimated, either by steamer on the St. Lawrence, or by the Grand Trunk Railway, 333 miles to Toronto, on Lake Ontario. At Toronto he may cross the western end of the lake to the town of Niagara, and thence reach the Falls by the Erie and Ontario Railway, 14 miles long ; or he may go less directly by water or by rail to Hamilton, and thence by rail to the Falls. From Montreal the traveler will proceed 9 miles to La- chine, by railway, avoiding the rapids, which the steamers from the west descend. The latter is termed " shooting the rapids," and it is one of the sensational experiences of the trip which can never be adequately described. It is in the highest degree creditable to all connected with this branch of Canadian river navigation, that no accident of any conse- quence has ever happened, nor has a single life been lost in this beautiful but dangerous spot. " And we have passed the terrible Lachine, Have felt a fearless tremor through the soul, As the huge waves upreared their crests of green, Holding our feathery bark in their control. As a strong eagle holds an oriole. UP THE ST. LAWRENCE. 95 The brain grows dizzy with the whirl and the hiss Of the fast-crowding billows as they roll, Like struggling demons to the vexed abyss, Lashing the tortured crags with wild, demoniac bliss." Two miles above Lachine, on the Isle Dorval, was for- merly the residence of Sir George Simpson, Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, and of the officers of this, the chief post of that corporation. It was from this point that the orders from headquarters in London were sent to the numerous posts throughout the vast territory of the Com- pany ; and near the end of April each year a body of trained voyageurs set out hence in large canoes, called 7iiaitres cano/s, with packages and goods for the various posts in the wilder- ness. Two centuries ago, the companions of the explorer Cartier, on arriving here, thought they had discovered a route to China, and expressed their joy in the exclamation of " La Chine !" Hence the present name, or so at least says tradition. A costly canal overcomes the obstruction of the rapids at Lachine. Caugbuawaga, an Iroquois settlement, lies opposite Lachine, at the outlet of the expansion of the river called Lake St. Louis. The Indians at Caughnawaga subsist chiefly by navigating barges and rafts down to Montreal, and in winter, by a trade in moccasins, snow-shoes, etc. They are mostly Roman Catholics, and possess an elegant church. Lake St. Louis. — The brown floods of the Ottawa assist in forming this great expanse of the St. Lawrence. They roll unmixed through the clearer water of the great river. On the northern shore of Lake St. Louis is the island of Montreal, 30 miles long. At the western extremity is Isle Perrot. The Cascade Rapids separate the expanse just passed from Lake St. Francis. The Beauharnois Canal here is i\\ miles in length, and has 9 locks. 96 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. Lake St. Francis, into which the voyager now enters, extends 40 miles westward. Midway, on the right, is the village of Lancaster, where a pile of stones, or cairn, has been thrown up in honor of Sir John Colborne, formerly Governor-General of Canada, now Lord Seaton. Leaving Lake St. Francis, we pass the passage of the celebrated Long Sault Rapids. Here, too, is the Cornwall Canal, n£ miles in length, with 7 large locks. Cornwall is a pleasant town, formerly called " Pointe Marine," in memory of the labor of ascending the river at this point. The Village of St. Regis lies across the river from Cornwall. It forms the boundary between Canada and the State of New York, and also intersects the tract of land oc- cupied by the 1,000 Iroquois, American and British, who dwell here. Dickenson's Landing lies at the head of the Corn- wall Canal. Within the thirty-eight miles vhich follow to Prescott, the villages of Moulinette, Mari? Town, and Ma- tilda, are successively passed. The Battle-Field of Chryseler's Farm, where the Americans met a defeat in the war of 1812, lies a little »bove Maria Town. Prescott is rapidly recovering its prestige, lost when the construction of the Rideau Canal attracted its trade to Kingston ; for now a railway from New York approaches it at Ogdensburg, and another connects it with Ottawa City, on the Ottawa River. Besides which advantages, it is on the line of the Grand Trunk route. From Prescott may be seen the windmill and the ruined hou^os, mementoes of the attempt at invasion by Schultz and his band in 1838. Ogdeiashurg, New York, the western terminus of the UP THE ST. LAWRENCE. 97 Northern Railway from Lake Champlain, is opposite Pres- cott. Maitland, built upon the site of an old French fort, is seven miles above Prescott. ISrocRviSle is yet five miles more, westward. It is one of the best-built towns in Canada West. GaiiailO$pse is 32 miles above Brockville. At Kings- ton, 20 miles ) r et beyond Gananoque, we leave the St. Law- rence, and approach the waters of Lake Ontario. In de- scending the river, the wonderful laybrinth of The Thousand Isles is passed just east of Kingston. Wolfe s Island, a well- cultivated spot, is opposite Kingston. Kingston. — The city of Kingston, the original capital of Canada, modern as it appears, looks far back for its his- tory, as its advantageous locale did not fail to attract the no- tice of the earl)- French discoverers. It was once occupied as a small fort called Cataraqui, otherwise known as Fron- tenac, in honor of the French count of that name, and was the scene of various sieges and exploits before it passed, with all the territory of the Canadas, from French to British rule. It was from this point that murderous expeditions were made by the Indians, in the olden times, against Albany and other English settlements of New York, which in turn sent back here its retributive blows. The present city was founded in 1783. It has now a population of about 15,000. As a military station, it is only second to Quebec. Among its objects of interest are the fortifications of Fort Henry, on a hill upon the eastern side of the harbor ; four fine Mar- tello Towers off the town, and other defensive works ; the University of Queen s College, the Roman Catholic College of Regiopolis, and the Provincial Penitentiary l a mile to the west 7 98 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. of the city. Kent's, and the British-American, are the prin- cipal hotels. As the navigation of the St. Lawrence ends at Kingston, the river boats are exchanged here for others more suited to the lake voyages. Lake Ontario — American Shore. — Let us, before we enter the great waters of Ontario, say a word to the traveler who may prefer to make the voyage along the American or lower shore of the lake. French Creek, afterward named Fort Covington, in memory of General Covington, who fell at the battle of Wil- liamsburg (1813), enters the St. Lawrence near this point. Oswego is the chief commercial port of the American shore of Ontario. It is very agreeably situated at the mouth of the Oswego River. The canal and railway from Syracuse unite at this point. Charlotte, the port of the city of Rochester, is next see. at the mouth of the beautiful Genesee River. From the mouth of the Genesee to Fort Niagara, a dis- tance of 85 miles, the coast presents a monotonous and for- est-covered level, with clearings only here and there. Having now looked at the American or southern shore, we will go back to Kingston, and start again on the upper side of the lake, making first for Toronto, 165 miles distant ; from Montreal, 333 miles. Cofourjjf, with a population of about 5,000, is 70 miles from Toronto, and 90 miles from Kingston. It has many and varied manufactories, and owing to its comparative proximity to Rochester, it ranks only second to Toronto and Hamilton in point of general business. A railway from Peter- boro' (30 miles distant) comes in here. In the vicinage is the Victoria College, founded by act of the Provincial Legisla- UP THE ST. LAWRENCE. 90 ture, in 1842, and attended by 150 students. There is a jail here — a strong-, massive, and imposing structure. Port Hope is seven miles above Coburg. From this point, or from Coburg, the journey to Kingston is often charmingly made overland, through a beautiful country at the head of the Bay of Quinte, a singular arm of the St. Law- rence. Toroulo. — Toronto is the largest and most populous city in Canada West. Some eighty years ago the site of the present busy mart was occupied by two Indian families only. In 1793, Governor Simcoe began the settlement under the name of York, changed, when it was incorporated, in 1834, to Toronto, which in the Indian tongue means " The Place of Meeting." Yonge Street is a handsomely-built and busy thoroughfare. The population, in 1817, numbered only 1,200 ; in 1850, it had reached 25,000 ; and now it is upward of 70,000. Among the public buildings of Toronto, those best worth visiting are the Catholic Church of St. Michael, the St. James Cathedral (English), the University of Toronto, the St. Lawrence Hall and Market, the Parliament House, Os- goode Hall, the Post-Office, the Court-House, the Exchange, the Mechanics' Institute, Knox's Church, Trinity College, Upper Canada College, the Lunatic Asylum, the Jail, and the Normal and Model Schools. At Toronto, the traveller may, if he pleases, reach Niagara direct, without touching at Hamilton as we propose to do in our present journey. Hamilton. — The Rossin and Lamb Hotels. Hamilton is among the most beautiful and most prosperous cities of Canada. Many advantages promise it a bright future. Its streets are wide and well-laid out, and its buildings are in general elegant, They are built for the most part of white 100 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. stone, an ample, supply of which is found near the city. The city was laid out and settled in 1813, by a person of the name of Hamilton. It is situated on Burlington Bay, at the head of the western extremity of Lake Ontario ; is connected with the eastern capitals of the United States, and with Que- bec, Montreal, and Toronto, by the Grand Trunk and the Hamilton and Toronto Railways, and with Lake Huron and the Mississippi States by the Great Western Railway, which traverses the garden lands of Canada ; and, via the Suspen- sion Bridge at Niagara, with the whole railway system of New York. The Post-Office is on James Street, and the principal banks and business houses are situated on that street and King Street. The distance from Toronto to Hamil- ton, by the steamer, is 45 miles — time, two and a half hours ; by railway, 38 miles — time (express), one hour 24 minutes. The population of Hamilton, in 1845, was 6,500; at this time it exceeds 30,000. From Hamilton the Falls of Niagara are readily reached by the Great Western Railway via St Catharine's. St. Catiiarine's is the chief point of interest on this part of our route. Its pleasant topography, and more partic- ularly, its mineral springs, make it a place of great summer resort. If the tourist have time before him, a delightful tour of a few weeks may be made in the heat of the summer, among the natural wonders of the region west, in visiting Mackinac, the Sault Ste. Marie, and other points of interest. The shores of Lake Superior have long been extensively ex- plored for their abundant copper wealth, and mines have been opened at several points, Having visited the great Lake Region, the tourist can re- turn by steamer, either to Collingwood, Goderich, or Sar- UP THE ST. LAWRENCE. 101 nia, and thence by rail to Toronto, and from the latter city by steamer down Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River to Montreal, whence he has again the choice of proceeding by river or rail to Quebec. Quebec. — This is the oldest, and after Montreal, the most populous city in British North America. It stands upon the left bank of the St. Lawrence River, and about 350 miles from the ocean. The city was founded in 1608, by the geographer Champlain. It fell into the possession of the British in 1629, but was restored three years later. The English made an unsuccessful attempt to regain possession of it in 1690. It was finally captured by Wolfe, in 1759, after an heroic defense by Montcalm. The city is divided into the Upper and Lower Town, the ascent from the latter being by a very steep and winding street, through Prescott Gate. The Upper Town occupies the highest part of the promontory, which is surrounded by strong walls and other fortifications ; while the Lower Town is built around the base of Cape Diamond. The latter is the business quarter. The Citadel, a massive defense crowning the summit of Cape Diamond (thus named from the circumstance of quartz crystals, sparkling like diamonds, being found in the dark- colored slate of which the cape is composed), covers about forty acres with its numerous buildings. Its impregnable position makes it perhaps the strongest fortress on this con- tinent ; hence the name of the " Gibraltar of America," which has been given it. The access to the Citadel is from the Upper Town, the walls of which are entered by five gates. Near the Palace Gate is the Hospital and a large Guard- House. By St. Louis Gate, on the southwest, the tourist will reach the memorable Plains of Abraham, the scene of 102 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. Wolfe's victory and death in the year 1759. The Prescott Gate is the only entrance on the St. Lawrence side of the fortress. The view from the Citadel is remarkably fine, taking in, as it does, the opposite banks of the great river through many picturesque miles up and down. The promenade here, on the ramparts above the esplanade, is charming. In the public garden, on Des Carriere Street, there is an obelisk to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm. At the foot of the Citadel stands a tower, over which now floats the British flag, on the spot where Montgomery and his soldiers all fell, swept by the grape-shot of a single gun, manned by a Cana- dian artillerist. The Parliament House.— Among the chief public edifices of Quebec is the new Parliament House, which supplies the place of the building destroyed by fire in 1854. It is now used as barracks, the Parliament building being at Ottawa City. The Roman Catholic Cathedral was erected under the au- spices of the first Bishop of Quebec and was consecrated in 1666. It is 216 feet long and 180 feet in breadth. There is in the Lower Town a chapel noticeable for its antiquity it ; was built and used as a church before 1690. It is called Notre Dame des Victoires. The Ursuline Convent and the Church of Ursula are striking buildings, encompassed by pleasant gardens. This establishment was founded in 1639, and "holds a high posi- tion in the public esteem. The building was destroyed by fire in 1650, and again in 1686. The remains of the Marquis de Montcalm are buried here in an excavation made by the bursting of a shell within the precincts of the convent. DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE. 103 The Artillery Barracks form a range of stone buildings 5,000 feet in length. Durham Terrace occupies the site of the old Castle of St. Louis, which was entirely consumed by fire in 1834. The English Protestant Cathedral, consecrated in 1804, is one of the finest modern edifices of the city. Tradition points to the site as the spot upon which Champlain erected his first tent. /;/ the Lower Town the traveler will find the Exchange, the Post-Office, the banks, and other commercial establishments. The Plains of Abraham may be reached via the St. Louis Gate and the counterscarp on the left, leading to the Glacis of the citadel ; thence toward the right, approaching one of the Martello Towers, where a fine view of the St. Lawrence opens. A little beyond, up the right bank, is the spot where General Wolfe fell, on the famous historic ground of the Plains of Abraham. It is the highest ground, and is surrounded by a wooden fence. Here stands the St. Foye Monument, erected to the memory of Wolfe and Mont- calm. It is of bronzed metal, standing on a stone base, and surmounted by a bronze statue of Bellona. On the pedes- tal are simple and appropriate inscriptions. Within an en- closure lower dowm is a stone well, from which water was brought to the dying hero. Wolfe's Cove, the spot where Montgomery was killed, and other scenes telling tales of the memorable past, will be pointed out to the traveller in this neighborhood. Tlie Mount Herinon Cemetery is about 3 miles from the city, on the south side of the St. Louis road. The grounds are 32 acres in extent, sloping irregularly but beau- tifully down the precipices which overhang the St. Lawrence. They were laid out by the late Major Douglas, of the United 104 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. States Engineers, who had previously displayed his skill and taste in the arrangements of the Greenwood Cemetery, near New York. SjOrette. — To see the Indian village of Lorette may be made the object of an agreeable excursion from Quebec, following the banks of the St. Charles River. Lake St. Cliarle§is fourmiles long and one broad. It is divided by projecting ledges into two parts, and abounds with fish. The Falls of Montmorenci afford one of the most delightful excursions in the neighborhood of Quebec. They are nine miles below the city. The foam rising from the foot of the falls becomes frozen in winter, and the ice accumulating, layer upon layer, forms two cones, one of which not unfrequently attains the height of ioo feet, offering to those who are courageous enough to ascend to its apex, a full front view of the edge of the precipice, and the still sur- face of the Montmorenci River sleeping in its icy bed. The second cone is much used for " toboggining." Experts in this exclusively Canadian amusement climb to the top of the cone, and then, perching themselves on their " toboggins" (a sort of light Indian sleigh), dash down the glassy slope with a velocity which, increasing every instant, occasionally carries the hardy tobogginers a full half-mile from the pinna- cle whence they started. Before quitting the picturesque banks of the Montmorenci, the tourist should by all means visit the Natural Steps, 2 miles above the cataract. The lime- stone rock bordering the river is there formed for half a mile into a succession of steps, each about a foot in depth, as reg- ularly arranged as if they had been hewn out by human hands. The " Mansion House," in which the Duke of Kent DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE. 105 passed the summer of 1791, stands at a short distance from the falls. The Fall§ of St. Anne, in the river St. Anne, 24 n iles below Quebec, are in the neighborhood of great pic- ti re jque beauty. Starting from the city in the morning be- times, one may visit Montmorenci, and proceed thence with ease the same evening to St. Anne. Next morning, after a leisurely survey of these cascades, there will be most of the day left to get back, with any detours that may seem desirable, to Quebec. The Fall§ of the Chaudiere are reached by rail after crossing the river via Point Levi. The rapid river plunges over a precipice of 130 feet, presenting very much the look of boiling water, whence its name of chaudiere, or caldron. The cataract is broken into three separate parts by the intervention of huge projecting rocks ; but it is reunited before it reaches the basin beneath. More immediately in the vicinity of Quebec there are sev- eral pleasant drives, viz., Spencer Wood, the Governor-Gener- al's residence, and to Chateau-£i A ot, an antique and massive ruin, standing in solitary loneliness, at the foot of the Charlesbourg Mountain. When in Quebec, the tourist should by all means take a run down to the Saguenay River, which magnificent trip can be performed by taking the railway at Point Levi for Riviere du Loup, and there crossing by steamer ; or, during the sum- mer months, he can take the steamer from Quebec direct to the Saguenay. The Saguenay is the largest tributary of the St. Law- rence, and unquestionably one of the most remarkable rivers on the continent. Its head-water is Lake St. John, 40 miles long, which, although n large rivers fall into it, has no other 106 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. outlet than the Saguenay. The original name of this river was Chicoutimi, an Indian word signifying deep water ; and its present one is said to be a corruption of St. Jeans Nez. The first place of interest to point out to the traveller is Tadouseac, lying a short distance above Pointe aux Vaches, 140 miles from Quebec. Tadoussac, apart from its pleasant stuation as a watering-place, is interesting from the circumstance of having been the spot on which stood the first stone-and-mortar building ever erected on the continent of America. The scenery here is wild and romantic in the extreme ; and the waters all around abound in excellent salmon and trout. Just in the rear of Tadoussac, and at the Bergeronnes, and on the opposite side of the Saguenay among the Canard Lakes, and at the Little Saguenay, St. John, Grand Bay, and Chicoutimi, Kenogami, and other lakes, trout are to be caught in great abundance. Seal-hunt- ing is also a favorite sport for those who resort to these shores : several varieties of the animal are here met with in abundance. The journey up the Saguenay may be made semi-weekly, by steamer from Quebec, or by the Grand Trunk Railway, 101 miles to St. Paschal, Riviere du Loup, opposite the mouth of the Saguenay, and thence by steamer. The course of the Saguenay — between lofty and precipitous hights, and, in its upper part, amid rushing cataracts — is 126 miles long from Lake St. John to the St. Lawrence, which it enters 140 miles below Quebec. Large ships as- cend 60 miles. In the trip thence from Quebec, there are many interesting points to be noticed in the preceding jour- ney of 120 miles down the St. Lawrence — the ancient-look- ing settlements on its banks, and the not less picturesque habitans of the country. A day's sail lands the voyager at DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE. 107 Riviere du Loup, where he passes the night on board his steamer, waiting for the following morning to resume his journey. The Saguenay is a perfectly straight river, with grand precipices on either side. It has neither windings nor projecting bluffs, nor sloping banks, nor winding shores, like other rivers ; nor is its stern, strange aspect varied by either village or villa. " It is as if the mountain range had been cleft asunder, leaving a horrid gulf 60 miles in length and 4,000 feet in depth, through the gray mica schist, and still looking fresh and new. One thousand five hundred feet of this is perpendicular cliff, often too steep and solid for the hemlock or dwarf-oak to find root ; in which case, being covered with colored lichens and moss, their fresh- looking fractures often appear, in shape and color, like painted fans, and are called the pictured rocks. But those parts more slanting are thickly covered with stunted trees, spruce and maple and birch growing wherever they can find crevices to extraot nourishment ; and the bare roots of the oak, grasping the rock, have a resemblance to gigantic claws. The bases of these cliffs lie far under the water, to an un- known depth. For many miles from its mouth no soundings have been obtained with 2,000 feet of line ; and for the en- tire distance of 60 miles, until you reach Ha-ha Bay, the largest ships can sail, without obstructions from banks or shoals, and, on reaching the extremity of the bay, can drop their anchors in 30 fathoms. The view up this river is singu- lar in many respects ; hour after hour as you sail along, precipice after precipice unfolds itself to view, as a moving panorama ; and you sometimes forget the size and hight of the objects you are contemplating, until reminded by see- ing a ship of 1,000 tons lying like a small pinnace under the towering cliff to which she is moored ; for even in these re- 108 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. mote and desolate regions, industry is at work, and, al- though you cannot clearly discern them, saw-mills have been built on some of the tributary streams which fall into the Saguenay. But what strikes one most is the absence of beach or strand, except in a few places where mountain tor- rents come rushing through the gloomy ravines, have washed down the detritus of the hills, and formed some alluvial land at the mouth ; no coves nor creeks, nor projecting rocks are seen in which a boat could find shelter, or any footing be ob- tained. The water is black as ink and cold as ice. No ducks nor sea-gulls sitting on the water, or screaming for their prey. No hawks nor eagles soaring overhead, al- though there is an abundance of what might be called ' eagle cliffs.' No deer coming down to drink at the streams ; no squirrels nor birds to be seen among the trees. No fly on the water, nor swallows skimming over the surface. It re- minds you of 1 That lake whose gloomy shore Skylark ne'er warbled o'er.' Two living things you may see, but these are cold-blooded animals ; you may see the cold seal, spreading himself upon his clammy rock, watching for his prey. You may see him make his sullen plunge into the water, like to the Styx for blackness. You may see him emerge again, shaking his smooth, oily sides, and holding a huge living salmon writh- ing in his teeth ; and you may envy the fellow faring so sumptuously, until you recollect that you have just had a hearty breakfast of fresh-grilled salmon yourself, and that you enjoyed it as much as the seal is now enjoying his raw morsel. And this is all you see for the first twenty miles, save the ancient settlement of Tadoussac at the entrance, and the pretty cove of L ' An?e a VEau, which is a fishing DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE. 109 station. Now you reach Cape Eternity, Cape Trinity, and many other overhanging cliffs, remarkable for having such clean fractures, seldom equalled for boldness and effect, which create constant apprehensions of danger, even in a calm ; but if you happen to be caught in a thunder-storm, the roar, and darkness, and flashes of lightning, are perfectly frightful. At last ) r ou terminate your voyage at Ila-ha Bay — that is, Smiling or Laughing Bay, in the Indian tongue — for you are perfectly charmed and relieved to arrive at a beautiful spot, where you have sloping banks, a pebbly shore, boats and wherries, and vessels riding at anchor ; birds and animals, a village, a church, French Canadians, and Scottish Highlanders." After duly enjoying the pleas- ant " let down" from the high tragic tone of the landscape you have been so long gazing upon and wondering at, formed in the comparatively pastoral character of this upper region of the Ottawa, you return to your steamer, and, descending the stern and solemn river, come again, at nightfall, to the Riviere du Loup, from whence you started in the morning. This is the second day of your journey, and on the third you are back once more in Quebec. After leaving these delightful scenes, and returning to Quebec, those who choose so to do, can set out for home either by rail, via Richmond, Portland, Boston, and New York ; or via Richmond, by rail to Sherbrooke, thence by coaches to Magog, connecting with steamer for Newport (See Lake Memphremagog); thence by P assumpsit Railway to White and Franconia Mountains, Boston, or New York. But some may prefer still to make the delightful and in- vigorating trip down the Gulf to New Brunswick und Nova Scotia, visiting numberless other points of interest on the way, and returning homeward by the International Steamshi* HO THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. Line to Portland or Boston, and thence by rail or steamer to New York. The best plan is to take either the steamers to Perce, and coast along as opportunity offers, or take passage on one of the Gulf steamers for Gaspe, Shediac, and Pictou. NEWPORT AND VICINITY. m ROUTE X. Newport and Vicinity. F Newport were not, as it is, the most elegant and fashionable of all American watering-places, its topographical beauties, its ancient commercial im- portance, and its many interesting historical asso- ciations, would yet claim for it distinguished mention in these pages. The approach seaward is charming. Coming in from the sea round Point Judith, a few miles brings the traveler into the waters of the Narraganset Bay, where he passes between Fort Wolcott, on Goat Island, and the strong- hold of Fort Adams, upon Brenton Point on the right, and enters the harbor of the ancient town, once among the com- mercial capitals of the Union. As late as 1769, Newport exceeded New York in the ex- tent of her foreign and domestic commerce. During the Revolution, the British long held possession of the place, during which time, and at their departure (1779) it became almost desolate. Before leaving, they destroyed 4S0 build- ings, burned the light-house, cut down all the ornamental and fruit trees, broke up the wharves, used the churches for riding-schools, and the State House for a hospital, and car- ried off the church bells ».nd the town records to New York — 112 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. disasters which reduced the population from 12,000 to 4,000. But the incidents of this period have left some pleasant memories for the present day, and remembrances of the fame of Commodore Perry, the gallant commander on Lake Erie, who was born in Narraganset, across the bay, and whose remains now lie in Newport ; of the residej.ce of Rochambeau, and other brave officers of the French fleet, and of the visits of General Washington, and the fetes given in his honor ; the venerable buildings associated with all these incidents being still to be seen. Newport was settled in 1637, and incorporated in 1700. Pocasset or Portsmouth, at the northern extremity of the island, had been settled the year previous. The old town lies near the water ; but of late years, since the place has become popular as a summer residence, a new city of charm- ing villas and sumptuous mansions has sprung up, extending far along upon the terraces which overlook the sea. Of the old buildings, and of those which belong to Newport per se, instead of in its character of a watering-place, are the ancient State House, the Redwood Library and Athenman, the Old Stone Mill, said to have been the property of Governor Benedict Arnold, built in 1726 ; Tammany Hall Institute, Trinity Churchy Vernon Family Mansion, the Perry Monu- ment, Commodore Perry s House, built in 1763, and long known .as the "Granary;" the fortifications in the harbor, Fort Adams, Fort Wolcott, Fort Brown, and the Dumplings. Fort Adams, on Brenton's Point, is one of the largest works in the United States. It mounts four hundred and sixty guns. To visitors, however, the chief attractions of the town and its immediate vicinity are the fine ocean beaches, known as Easton's, Sachuest's, and Smith's, or the First, the Second and the Third Beach. It is the First which is chiefly used NEWPORT AND VICINITY. H3 as a bathing-ground by the Newport guests. It is half a mile from the Ocean and Fillmore Houses. Stages run dur- ing bathing hours. At the Second Beach are the famous rocks called Purgatory and the Hanging Rocks, within whose shadow it is said that Bishop Berkeley wrote his " Minute Philosopher." The chasm called Purgatory measures 160 feet in length, is 50 feet in depth, and from 8 to 14 feet wide at the top, and has an average breadth at the bottom of about 12 feet. The drives about Newport are excellent. In this respect its advantages over Saratoga and Long Branch are very marked. The new drive laid out in 1867 is much frequented. It commences at Belleview Avenue, near the Ocean House, is 80 feet wide, and macadamized throughout its entire length of ten miles. It affords an unobstructed view of the ocean, nearly its entire length, and is generally allowed to be one of the finest roads in the country. The Glen and the Spouting Cave are charming places to ride to, when the weather invites. Lily Pond, the largest sheet of spring water on the island, is easily reached from Spouting Cave. " Bright and queen-like the array Of lilies in their crystal bed; Like chalices for Beauty's lip, Their snowy cones half open lie, The dew-drops of the morn to sip, But closed to day's obtrusive eye." The waters of this pond swarm with perch. Newport was the birth-place of the gifted miniature painter Malbone, and Gilbert Stuart's place of nativity may be seen in Narraganset, across the bay. Stuart made two copies of his great Washington picture for Rhode Island, one of which may be seen in the State House at Newport, and the other in 8 114 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. that at Providence. Among the interesting relics to be found in the town are : Franklin's printing-press, imported by James Franklin, in 1720. It is in the office of the Newport Mercury, established in 1758. Upon this press the first news- paper, issued 173.2, was printed. The Chair of State, in which Benedict Arnold sat at the reception of the charter in 1663, is in the possession of the Gould family. The First Baptist Church, founded in 1638, and claimed as the oldest < hurch in Rhode Island, is worthy a visit. The bell in the tower weighs half a ton. The American Steamboat Com- pany's steamers, " Bay Queen," Captain Allen, and " City of Newport," Captain Kelley, make excursions daily (Sun- days excepted) between Providence, Rocky Point, and New- port. Fares, 50 cents and 75 cents. The distance to Providence is 30 miles ; to Fall River, 18 ; Point Judith, 15 ; and Block Island, 30 miles. Rocky Point and Marked Rock are favorite resorts for ex- cursionists. There is a good hotel at the Point, from the ob- servatory of which a fine view is obtained. Warren and Bristol, across the bay, are interesting places, easily reached from Newport or Providence. Just below the latter place is Mount Hope, the famous home of the renowned King Philip^ the last of the Wampanoags. From the summit of this picturesque hight a charming panorama of the Rhode Isl- and waters is to be had. Vewport is possessed of several very excellent hotels. The Ocean House ,on Touro Street and Belleview Avenue, is the most fashionable and most delightfully situated ; the Atlantic, at the corner of Pelham and Touro streets, opposite Touro Park, is an admirably appointed house ; the Fillmore, the Aquidneck, Pelham Street House, Perry Housefand United States, are also favorite stopping-places. One daily newspa- NEWPORT AND VICINITY. H5 per {Nevjs), and the Mercury, the oldest weekly newspaper but. one in the United States, are published in Newport. Excellent photographic views of the town and objects of in- terest may be had of Mr. J. Appleby Williams. His gallery is on Lower Touro Street, in the vicinity of the Ocean House. 116 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. ROUTE XI. Long Branch and Surroundings. MONG the more modern fashionable watering- places of America, Long Branch deservedly oc- cupies a prominent position. Its special recom- mendations are its proximity to New York and Philadelphia, its easy and pleasant access, and the invigor- ating influences of its ocean breezes, combined with its bathing privileges. The hotel accommodation of the place, which as late as 1861 was almost wholly monopolized by the Mansion, Howland, and United States, has now been so greatly extended as to embrace seven large first-class hotels, and as many more of smaller dimensions, but scarcely less liberal fare and appointments, well adapted to the tastes and wants of private families. Stetson s, at the south end of the main avenue or drive, has few equals as a watering-place hotel in the country. During the hight of the season it is thronged with the beauty and fashion of the metropolis. A band of music nightly. Habitues of " The Branch " are accustomed to designate its several divisions as " The Shore." " The Lower Pole," and " The Pole." The first is applied to the sea-shore, which is overlooked by the long line of hotels and summer LONG BRANCH AND SURROUNDINGS. H7 residences. Here, at the proper bathing hour, a white flag is raised. This is the signal for the gathering of the groups of bathers clad in their parti-colored costumes. The scene at such times — usually about noon — is gay and animated. The " Pole " stands about a couple of miles from the shore, where two roads intersect the main street of the village. This indicates the village of Long Branch, founded by the fishermen of the coast, whose small tenements here find protection from the wintry blasts to which houses on or near the beach are exposed. The " Lower Pole " points out a collection of houses about half a mile from the shore. These are occupied by their proprietors and others interested in the hotels and other business establishments of the shore, who are thus conveni- ently near, to look after their interests during the long, dull winter season, and prepare for the opening which usually takes place on the istto the 15th of June. There is admirable sport in the vicinity of the Branch for the angler. The Shrewsbury River, on the one side, and the ocean on the other, swarm with all the delicate varieties of fish with which our markets abound. Shrewsbury, Red Bank, and Tinton Falls, in the vicinity of the Branch, are also places much resorted to. Pleasure Bay, Oceanville (Mineral Springs), Eatontowtu Newman Springs, Deal and Shark rivers also afford pleasant drives and excursions for parties from the Branch. Hatha- way 's and Abner Aliens hotels, at Deal, have ample accom- modation for 500 guests. Shark River is the favorite resort of crabbing and boating parties. Pleasure Bay, on the Shrewsbury River, offers great variety of aquatic sport. Crabs and every variety of shell-fish are served here in ex- cellent style. The New York Hotel is the leading house 118 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. for visitors. The fine grounds of Mr. John Hoey are on Cedar Avenue, a short drive beyond Stetson's Hotel. After Stetson's, the principal hotels at Long Branch are the Metropolitan, Mansion House, Continental, Holland's, Clarendon, Cooper Cottage (Laird 's), United States, and Atlantic. The Dunbarton (Mrs. Down's), is near Oceanport Station, four miles from the Ocean Beach. A favorite route to Long Branch is by the Seaside Railway. Steamer "William Cook," from foot of Barclay Street, twice daily during the season. Time to the Branch, one hour and a half. CAPE MAY. 119 ROUTE XII. Cape May. j|APE MAY is to Philadelphians, what Long Branch is to New Yorkers. Few among the summer sea- side resorts enjoy a wider celebrity than this. Of late years, since railway communications have rendered it easily accessible, the number of visitors has largely increased. Cape May is at the extreme southern point of New Jersey, where the floods of the Delaware are lost in the greater floods of the Atlantic. The beach for bathing or driving is one of the best on the Atlantic coast. The little village of the Cape (Cape Island), occupies an area of nearly 300 acres, and has a resident population of about 1,200. During the summer season this number is usually swelled to several thousand. They come chiefly from Philadelphia, Baltimore, and the South ; of late years, large numbers from St. Louis, Cincinnati, and Chicago, have resorted thither. It is reached from Philadelphia, by the West Jersey Rail- way via Camden and Glassboro', and thence by the Cape May and Millville Railway, in about three hours and a half. Dis- tance 80 miles. The southern part of New Jersey being very flat, and the scenery uninteresting, the route has few attractions 120 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. for the tourist; but the advantages of Cape May itself, for sea-bathing, are sufficiently great to compensate for all minor drawbacks. The beach is one of the finest on the coast, and the hotels are numerous, commodious, and well-kept. They open usually on the ist of June, and by the beginning or middle of July are generally full. The beach, nearly five miles in length, is hard and smooth, and affords a splendid drive. A tandem or four-in-hand drive over the Cape May beach, on a fine bright day, at the hight of the season, in full view of the ocean, is one of the most enjoyable things the Guide has to offer. The distance from the railway depot is trifling, and the hotel omnibuses carry passengers free of charge. The leading hotel is Congress Hall, under the proprietor- ship of J. H. Cake & Co. This fine house has been lately extended and improved. It now embraces the former grounds, with the addition of the Ocean House grounds, giving a sea frontage of 1,200 feet, and accommodation for 1,200 guests. The Columbia is now under the management of Mr. George J. Bolton, of the Bolton House, Harrisburg^ and is strictly a first-class house, with fine conveniences for bathing. The United States is also a well-kept and popular house. A new hotel on the site of the old Mount Vernon Hotel, at the north end of Cape Island, is in contemplation. The other prominent public houses are the Atlantic, Centre, and Delaware. Besides the above, there are seven other houses, the whole having accommodation for nearly 5,000 guests. The price per day at the leading hotels is $4.00, or $25.00 per week. Cold Spring, two miles north of the beach, on the line of the railroad, affords a pleasant drive and picnic place. No- hotel accommodation yet at this Spring. POPULAR SUMMER RESORTS. 121 POPULAR SUMMER RESORTS. Atlantic City. — Atlantic City, 61 miles from Philadel- phia, and 133 from New York, may be reached from the former city twice daily, by the Camden and Atlantic Railroad. It has fine accommodation for bathing, and is a place much resorted to by visitors from Philadelphia and New York. Hotels : the United States, Surf House. Avon Springs (Sulphur and Salt), 20 miles from Rochester, and 395 from New York, via Hudson River and Central Railway. Knickerbocker Hall. Bath, L. I. — By dummy cars from Brooklyn, via Green- wood. Sea-bathing, boating, fishing, etc. Bath Hotel. Bedford Springs, Pa., on the Ruystown branch of the Juniata. — Route, via Huntingdon, on the Pennsylvania Central Railroad, to Mount Dallas, and thence 6 miles by stage. Bergen Point, N. J. — By New Jersey Central R. R., or boats from Barclay and Liberty streets. La Towette House. Birch Bale Springs, near Concord, N. H. From Boston, by Concord, Manchester, and Lawrence R. R. 122 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. Budd's Lake, 2 miles from Stanhope, and 54 from New York City, via Morris and Essex Railway. Fine fishing. Sharp's Forest House. Chittenango White Sulphur Springs- Madison County, N. Y. Coney Island, belonging to the town of Gravesend, is five miles long, and one broad, and is situated about 12 miles from New York. It has a fine beach fronting the Ocean, and is much frequented by New Yorkers. On the north side of the island are two hotels, the " Pavilion" and the " Tivoli," where excellent clam-bakes and chowders are served. There are other hotels and boarding-houses up the beach. Steamer Naushon, from foot of Christopher and Morris streets, or steam-cars from Brooklyn, via Greenwood and New Utrecht. CooperstOWIl, N. Y., in the vicinity of Sharon Springs and Otsego Lake. Carrs Hotel. Croton Lake, in Putnam County, three miles west of Mount Kisco. Harlem Railway to Mt. Kisco, 37 miles. Delaware Water Gap, Kittatinny Mountains. Central Railway, of New Jersey and Delaware, Lackawanna and Western R. R. Kittatinny House, Greenwood House. Genesee Falls, 375 miles from New York City to Rochester. Hotels : Osborne and Congress. Gettysburg, Pa.— Springs, Battle-Field, and National Cemetery. Cumberland Valley R. R. Greenwood Lake, 10 miles from Monroe, on the POPULAR SUMMER RESORTS. 123 Erie Railway. Good fishing and fine scenery. Windermere House. I§lip, L. I. — Pleasantly situated on Great South Bay, 43 miles from New York. Route via South Side R. R. Hotels : Pavilion, Lake House. Keyporl, N. J. — Good bathing and fisning. Pavilion. Lake Mahopae, Putnam County, 14 miles from Peekskill. Good fishing. Harlem Railway. Baldwin House. Lake MeinphremagOg, Me., 229 miles from Spring- field, Mass. Fine scenery and excellent fishing. The lake is 30 miles long. Steamer up and down daily. Memphrema- gog House. Mountain House. Lake Winnipisaukee, N. H. (See White Mount- ains.) — Good fishing and magnificent scenery. Saco Valley Route. Hotel at Weir's Bridge. Lebanon Springs, N. Y. {See Hudson River Route.) Columbia Hall. Mississiquoi Springs, Vt., 10 miles from St. Albans ( Weldon House), by Rutland and Burlington R. R., and stages 10 miles to Sheldon ( Wright's Hotel). Nahailt, 12 miles from Boston. Steamer daily. Fine beach and bathing ; one large hotel. New Brighton, S. I.— Boat from foot of Dey Street, every hour. Pavilion Hotel. New Rochelle.— Pleasantly situated on the Sound 18 miles from New York, via New Haven Railway. Neptune House. 124 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. Plainfield, N. J., 24 miles from New York, via Jersey Central R. R. Pleasant drives, etc. Washington Rock Hotel. Port Washington, N. J. — Pleasantly situated on the Shrewsbury River. Bathing, boating and fishing. Steamer Sea Bird, from foot of Warren Street. Sigier's Hotel. Richfield Spring's. — Richfield Springs are in the town of Richfield, Otsego County, southeast of Utica, near the head of Canaderaga, one of the numerous lakes of this part of New York. Hotel : Spring House. Otsego Lake is six miles distant, and another six miles will take the traveler to Cooperstown. Cherry Valley, Springfield, and other vil- lages are near by. Route from New York and Albany, via Central Railway to Herkimer, 81 miles, and thence by stage. Red Bank. — See Long Branch, &c. Rye, N. H., distant 7 miles from Portsmouth. Fine beaches and bathing. Hotels : Ocean, Atlantic, and Farragut. Route by Eastern Railway from Boston to Hampton, Green- land, or Portsmouth, and thence by stage. Schooley's Mountain, 62 miles to Hackettstown, by Morris and Essex R. R., and thence i\ miles by stage. Bel- mont Hall, Heath House. Seneca Lake and Falls, 40 miles west of Syracuse. Lake 40 miles long and 2 to 4 wide. It is very deep, and never freezes over. Steamboats run between Jefferson, at the south end of the lake, and Geneva, at the north end. Route by Erie Railway to Elmira, and thence by Northern Central (Pa.) to Watkins, at the head of the lake. Hotels : Jefferson and Fall- Brook. POPl'LAR SUMMER RESORTS. I Q5 Sharon Springs.— Hotels : The Pavilion is a large and well-appointed establishment. The Eldridge is also a good house. Route.— From Albany, by the Central Railroad, as far as Palatine Bridge, 55 miles ; thence by stage, 10 miles, over a plank road. Stamford, Conn., 37 miles from New York, via New Haven R. R. Good boating and fishing. Steamer from Fulton Market Slip, 3 P. M., daily. Trenton Falls, New York, on West Canada branch of Mohawk River, 17 miles from Utica (N. Y. < entral Rail- way). River falls 312 feet in two miles. Yalloilia Springs, Broome Co., N.Y.— From Albany, via Susquehanna R.R., 1 14 miles to Afton, and thence by stage. Spring House. White Sulphur Springs, Greenbrier Co., W. Vir- ginia, via Chesapeake and Ohio R. R. Peytons Sf Co. Willoughby L,ake, Northern Vermont, 30 miles from Canada line and 350110m New York. Lake is five miles long and one to two miles wide. Fine views of the White Mountains. Distance to Island Pond, on the Grand Trunk R. R., 20 miles. Wyoming Valley, Pa.— Route by New Jersey Cen- tral R. R. to Hampton Junction, 59 miles ; thence by Del., Lack., and Western R. R., to Scranton, 83 miles ; and thence by Lackawanna and Bloomsbury R. R.. 1 7 miles to Kingston, opposite Wilkesbarre. Wyoming Valley Hotel. ROUTE I.— Hudson River Railway, New York to Albany and Troy. STATIONS. Mis LEAVE New York o :30th street 3 Manhattan 8 152d street 9 Fort Washington 10 Spuyten Duyvel 13 Riverdale 14 Mount St. Vincent 15 Yonkers 17 Glenwood 18 Hastings 21 Dobbs" Ferry 22 Irvington * 24 Tarrytown 2 27 Scarhorough 31 Sing Sing 32 Croton 36 Cruger's 37 Montrose 41 Peekskill 43 Fort Montgomery — 47 Garrison's^ 51 Cold Spring 54 Cornwall Station 56 Fishkill 4 60 Low Point 64 New Hamburg 66 Milton Ferry 71 Poughkeepsie . . 75 HydePark 80 Staatsburg 85 Rhinebeck 90 Barrytown 96 Tivoli 100 Germantown 105 Catskill Station | 111 Pass. Exp. Exp. Pas? A. M. 6 45 A. M. 8 00 2d 23 30 36 42 50 57 8 04 8 12 8 19 8 24 8 33 8 42 8 53 9 00 9 06 9 14 9 20 9 28 9 38 11 00 10 33 11 14 11 25 11 37 11 51 12 04 12 18 12 32 9 21 9 39 9 56 11 02 11 24 A. M. P. M. 10 45 2 30 11 19 11 41 11 54 12 17 12 35 12 42 12 55 1 08| 1 35' 1 48 1 58 2 10 2 23 2 35 3 04 3 07 3 14 3 20 3 26 3 34 3 42 3 48 3 55 02 07 18 26 38 45 51 00 t)7 Exp. Exp P. M. 4 00 Pass- P. M. * 6 30 P. M. 11 00 12 10 12 28 12 47 5 23 8 06 5 41 5 48 8 26 6 02 8 47 11 45i 2 58 5 15 5 25 5 45 5 59 6 10 6 22 6 35; 6 47 7 00 7 12! 6 16 9 27 6 45 6 59 7 10 7 22 10 03 7 35 7 47 8 00 8 is! 1 22 2 13 3 05 3 53 4 27 X3T Trains marked thus (*) run daily. Other trains, Sundays excepted. 1. Ferry to Piermont (terminus of Piermont Br. of Erie Railway). 8. Ferry to Nyack. 3. Ferry to West Point. 4. Ferry to Newburg (terminus of Newburg Br. Erie Railway). LOCAL TRAINS, STOPPING AT WAY STATIONS. Yonkers.— Leave 30th 8tr eet for Yonkers at 6.30, 7.10, 9.00, 9.40 & 11.50 a.m., and 2 00, 4.25, 5.10, 7.10 & 11.30 p.m. Leave Yonkers for New York at 6.00, 7.50, 8.20 & 10.00 a.m., and 12.30, 2.40, 3.20, 5.50, 6.40 & 9.00 p.m. Sing Sing.— Leave New York for Sing Sing at 5.30 & 6.00 p.m. Leave Sing Sing for New York at 6.20 & 7.55 a.m. PeekSklll.— Leave New York for Peekskill at 10.00 a.m., and 4.15 & 7.00 p.m. Leave Peekskill for New York at 6.35 and 8.20 a.m., and 12.30 P. m. POUghkeepSie. — Leave New York for Poughkeepsie at 12.00 noon, and 5.00 p.m. Leave Poughkeepsie for New York at — a.m. Hudson Hiver Railway (Continued), STATIONS. LEAVE Hudson" Stock] ort Coxsackie Station.. . . Stuyvesant Schodack Castleton East Albany Albany" Troy < ARRIVE Mis Pas. Exp. A.M. A.M. 115 12 45 11 56 119 12 57 123 ; 1 06 125 1 14 132 1 29 135 : 1 40 114 2 00 12 50 2 05 1 00 150 ! 2 20 1 15 P. M. P. M. Exp. | A.M. 3 10 3 26 3 33 Pass. Exp. Exp. P.M. P.M. P.M. 7 20 8 25 8 35 8 43 8 50 9 03 9 12 11 01 9 30 12 05 9 40 12 15 9 50 12 30 P. M. P. M. A. M. . Pass^_ 6 35 6 45 7 00 A. M. 5. E§T Trains marked (*) run daily. Other trains, Sundays excepted. Connects with Hudson & Boston Railway. Connects with New York Central Railway. Connects with Albany & Susquehanna Railway. Connects with Troy & Boston Railway Connects with Rensselaer & Saratoga Railway. New York and Harlem Hailivay. STATIONS. LEAVE. . N. Y. City Hall 26th Street* 42d Street Harlem Mott Haven Melrose Morrisania Tremont Fordham Williams' Bridge l . Wood Lawn West Mt. Vernon Bronxville Tuckahoe Scarsdale Hart's Corners .. ARRIVE NEW YORK TO ALBANY AND TKOY. 2% 9 10 11 iz 14 17 19 20 22 24 Exp. Pass. Mail. Pass. A. M. A. M. A. M. P. M. 7 00 9 IO IO OO 2 30 7 10 9 20 IO IO 2 40 9 35 2 55 9 4o 3 OO 9 45 10 31 3 04 9 47 3 07 9 52 3 11 9 56 3 15 IO 01 3 20 10 04 3 23 10 08 3 27 10 15 3 34 IO 18 3 37 10 26 3 45 IO gl 3 51 P. M. 4 OO 4 10 4 15 4 25 02 5 5 5 1 5 1 5 ^ 5 35 5 45 6 16 6 23 6 31 6 34 6 42 6 47 * Passengers take city Cars at Astor House 35 minutes earlier than time given above for leaving 26th Street. Williams' Bridge Trains.— Leave 26th St. for Williams 1 Bridge at 6.30 A. M., and 3.25, 5.00, 8.30 P. M. (Wed. at 6.40 instead of 8.30 P M.) Leave Williams 1 Br. for New York at 5.30 and 8 10 A. M., and 4.45, 6.15 P. M. I. N. Y. & N. Haven Railway diverges. New York and Harlem Railway — Continued, NEW TORK TO ALBANY AND TROT. STATIONS. Miles Exp. Pass. Mail. Pass. Exp. Pass. Pass LEAVE A. M. A. M. A. M. P. M. P. M. P. M. P.M. White Plains 26 8 06 10 36 n 17 3 56 5 06 5 30 6 53 Kensico 29 A. m. h 25 P. 31. 5 37 7 01 Unionville 32 11 35 5 46 7 09 Pleasantville 34 11 42 5 52 7 15 Chappaqua 36 826 11 48 558 722 Mount Kisco 40 11 59 5 35 6 08 7 30 Bedford 42 842 1206 614 p.m. Katonah 45 12 14 5 47 6 22 GolderTs Bridge 47 12 20 6 28 Purdy's 49 1226 634 Oroton Falls 51 902 1233 602 640 Brewster's 55 913 12 45 6 13 6 51 DykemarTs 58 12.53 658 Ice Pond 59 Towner's 61 1 01 7 06 Paterson 64 1 09 7 14 Pawlings 67 947 127 6 48 7 22 South Dover 73 1 42 P. M. Dover Plains. 80 10 14 159 715 Wassaic 85 211 Amenia 88 10 30 2 21 7 35 Sharon Station 91 2 28 Ulillerton 96 1048 242 758 Boston Corners 103 3 02 Copake 108 3 14 Hillsdale 112 11 23 3 25 8 36 Bain's I15 3 32 Martindale I19 3 42 Philmont 122 3 51 Ghent 2 128 4 06 Chatham 4 Corners 131 12 co 4 12 9 50 East Albany 3 154 12 50 10 40 Albany 1 00 10 50 Troy 160 1 10 1 1 00 ARRIVF. P. M. P^JIt. P. M . Fare*. — Through Fare, $3.00. Way Fares, about 7.% cents per mile. Sunday Train. — Leaves New York for Millerton at 9.00 A. M. Mil- lerton for New York at 4.30 P. M. White Plains. — Leave 26th Street for White Plains at 6.00 and 6.40 P. M. (Wed. at 11.30 instead of 6.40 P. M.) Leave White Plains for New York at 6.00 A. M. and 12.15 P- M. 2. Connects with Western Railway. 2. Junction of Hudson and Boston Railway. 3. Connects with Troy and Greenbush Railway. 9 ROUTE II,— Rensselaer and Saratoga Railivay. STATIONS. Saratoga Mis Mail. LEAVE Albany 1 Schenectady Troy 2 Green Island .... Waterford Albany Junction Mechanicsville. . . . East Line Ballstons arrive { leave f Gansevoort Moreau Fort Edward 4 ... Dunham 1 sBa sin Smith's Basin Foit Ann Comstock's Landing s I Junction s? fL. Chaiu.5 ^ ) Junction Fairhaven Hydeville Eagle Bridge 6 Waifs Corner Cambridge Shushan. Salem West Rupert Rupert Pawlet Granville Middle Granville.. Poultney Castleton W.Rut.&Clar. Spr. Centre Rutland Rutland 8 ARRIVE 1 4 6 1:2 •25 32 43 48 49 52 57 61 65 71 73 71 79 §L '23 •20 34 41 43 49 56 59 61 67 84 91 93 95 A. M. 7 10 8 13 8 45 9 05 9 10 9 35 9 48 9 53 10 01 10 12 10 23 10 33 10 49 11 00 10 53 11 15 11 20 Ace. Mail. 5 45 6 05 6 13 6 40 55 Exp. P. M. 2 00 11 29 11 45 11 50 11 55 A. M. 8 05 1 8 30 | 8 38 i 3 50 9 07 9 13 9 20 P. M. 2 55 3 12 3 25 3 46 4 11 4 30 4 40 4 45 5 00 P. M. 9 45 5 20 5 40 5 45 5 50 P. M. 10 45 11 01 11 15 11 33 11 58 12 16 12 24 12 29 12 45 1 03 1 20 1 25 1 30 A. M. 1. Connects with New York Central, Hudson River, Harlem, Albany & Susquehanna, and Boston & Albany Railways. Also with Steamboats to New York. 2. Connects with railways diverging from Troy. 3. Junction of Saratoga & Schenectady Division. 4. Steamboats to Glenn's Falls, Lake George, &c. 5. Steamboats to Burlington, Plattsburgh and Montreal. 6. Connects with Troy & Boston Railway. 7. Connects with Stages for Clarendon Springs. 8. Connects with Rutland & Burlington and Bennington & Rutland Railways. ROUTE IV.— Ogdensburgh and Lake Cha m/pla in Ha fflwa //. LEAVE Ogdensburgh . Lisbon Madrid Potsdam Knapps Brasher Falls Lawrence Moira Brush's Mills Bangor £S? }■■!— Burke Chateaugay Summit Clinton Mills Brandy Brook Ellenburg Forest Side Track lrona Altona Wood's Falls Centerville Mooer's Perry's Mills Champlain Rouse's Point ARRIVE 9 17 25 28 35 41 47 49 55 61 69 73 81 83 8S 89 92 94 95 97 100 102 106 110 113 lis 00 35 70 1 00 1 10 1 40 1 60 1 90 2 00 2 -20 2 40 2 70 2 90 3 20 3 35 3 55 3 60 3 70 A.M. 11 40 12 00 12 20 12 40 12 48 1 10 1 25 1 40 1 47 2 02 P.M. 7 00 7 26 7 52 8 25 8 35 8 58 9 17 9 35 9 43 10 00 *2 "20 10 20 2 40 P.M. 3 1)2 3 15 3 40 3 48 4 0.-) 4 15 3 SO 3 90 4 00 4 00 4 00 4 00 4 00 4 00 4 23 4 30 4 40 4 47 5 00 5 10 5 19 5 30 P.M. A.M. 7 45 8 10 8 25 8 52 9 00 9 15 9 18 9 27 9 45 10 00 10 08 10 24 10 35 A.M. * Dinner. CONNECTIONS: At Ogdensburgh, trains connect with Grand Trunk Railway for Brockville, Kingston, Toronto, Detroit, Chicago, Milwaukee, and all points West. Also with trains on St. Lawrence & Ottawa Railway lor Ottawa ; and with trains on Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburgh Railway tor Watertown, Rome and the West ; also with Steamers of North - ern Transportation Co., running through from Ogdensburgh to Cleveland, Toledo, Detroit, Milwaukee and Chicago, without change, touching at intermediate points, thus offering unequalled facilities for parties moving to the Great West. Also connecting at Ogdens- burgh with Lake Ontario Steamers for Oswego, Charlotte, Lewiston, and Niagara Falls, passing through the far-famed Thousand Islands of the River St. Lawrence, together with the Steamers from Ogdensburgh to Montreal and Quebec, passing down the Rapids of the St. Lawrence in their course! At Potsdam Junciion, trains connect with Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburgh Railway for Potsdam, Canton, Watertown, &c; also with Stages for Massena Springs. At Mooer's Junction, trains connect with Plattsburgh & Montreal Railway for Plattsburgh ; thence by Lake Champlain Steamers for Burlington, Ticonderoga, Lake George, White- hall, Saratoga, Troy, Albany, &c; also by rail from Burlington for East and South. At Rouse's Point, trains connect with Vermont Central Railwav for Burlington, White River Junction, White Mountains, Bellows Falls, Concord, 'Manchester, Fitchburg, Lowell, Lawrence, Portland, Boston, Worcester, Springfield, Hartford, and New York ; and via Rutland & Burlington Railwav from Burlington to Rutland, Bellows Falls, Fitchburg, and Boston ; and South to TVoy, Albany, and New York. Also at Rouse's Point with trains on Montreal & Champlain Railwav for Montreal, Ac. ^ "to S P3 a- e- e O O O <-v o ■*">*■ H m O MS N OM SE. . EE. . £ £. a- a a. c3 O^OO v-i v-t t^ r^r^wwM O 00 m ii H O 00 r-» o o «o 00 00 f- t^vO vO vO *m« e* B- -------- --■- a a- 8 MO "iQ SOmO u-i ^4- u-i Tf ft m c* H «>) M H m 000 a a a a. e e. O v-i O O vi O m u-i o O <— > O vi O 00 vO v-* (-. 'tWMvOO * O^vO -"i-r^Mi-iHMciOwOO OOO 00 t^OO t-^vO vi rr\ sjpm W w < "> c 5 2 (3 h c «- £ ~z siFtf S " 3 ° ■3 s-eK SS« .3 £ £ 52|5^i3 • • • ' b • • r« • o — i is O vi o o 1^00 MM>0 OMHrtt^Sfl'* C — — — t) O O m o '.O.Tl-I^OOrJC v-, vivo vo t-«oo O O cJ 00 ► — C x ■ ©-3*-©-3r^oois**o Miles. as OSSSSe OX 0000 00 00 0000 00-3-3-3 OOI*■M^Sl-'CO^CTi:iiii-l-oo^^c<: oiiw^wx x x o - a ^ ~) « -u ot s c Accom. Boston Express *0 tS (4 M K " ^ ^ M K t-i K> ii ti ii - Accom. ii «- »M g Boston Express. Boston Express. I OS OS ■ 1-1© Ci ii W W W OI -T -U ii it M © J> © Or is ii g « Local Express. - OS OS © © : giil-'-O: • ^XiiBl Stamford Special. -3 -3 -3 -3 -3 © © © 3: ~. © OTOt iS iS ©© Accom. ►j 00 00 -3 -3-3-3-3-3-3 ©.© Stamford Special. Express. ADDITIONAL TRAIN'S— Accommodation Train leaves New York for Stamford at 2. 15 p.m. Leave Stamford for New York at 5 and 8.15 a. if. Leave New York for Norwalk at 9 a. m. Leave Norwalk for New York at 6.45 a. if. Leave Stamford for New Haven at 6.20 a. m. Through Fare, $2.25. Way Fare, about 3 cents per mile. Discount made to passen- gers procuring Tickets before taking seats in the cars. The Boston Express Train which leaves New York at 8 a. if., arrives at Boston at 5.05 p.m., the 3 p. m. arrives at Boston at 11.50 p.m. A Mail and Express Train leaves New York at 8 p. if., and arrives at Boston at 6 next morning. * Passengers take city cars, opposite Astor House, 30 minutes earlier than time given above for leaving New York. 1. New York & New Haven Railway diverges from New York & Harlem Railway. 2. Junction of Danbury & Norwalk Railway. 3. Connects with Naugatuck and Housatonic Railways ; also, by Steamboat with New York 4. Connects with New Haven & New London Railway. 4. " " New Haven, Hartford & Springfield Railways. 4. " " New Haven & Northampton Railway. 4. " " Steamboats for New York daily. Boston, Concord and Montreal, and White Mountains (JV. H,) Railways. STATIONS. LEAVE Concord. 1 East Concord North Concord Canterbury Northfield Sanborn ton Union Bridge Laconia Lake Village Weirs Meredith Village Fogg's Road Holderness Bridgewater til™ f Plymouth. Quincy Rumney West Rumney Wentworth Warren East Haverhill Haverhill and Newbury. North Haverhill.- Woodsville arrive | yvpIIs R. 2 LEAVE f **«« s "• • Bath Lisbon North Lisbon Littleton 1 Milks. Mail. Accommoda- tion. A.M. P.M. 10 31 3 25 2 10 37 3 31 5 10 10 56 3 49 13 11 05 3 58 18 11 18 4 13 22 11 27 4 27 27 11 41 4 41 29 11 46 4 46 33 12 00 5 00 37 12 15 5 15 41 45 12 40 5 40 48 51 12 55 5 50 1 20 P.M. 97 59 1 41 62 1 50 67 2 03 71 2 14 79 2 44 84 2 58 89 3 09 93 3 25 93 3 30 3 40 98 4 00 103 4 17 108 4 33 113 4 48 P.M. 1 Railways diverging from Concord :— Boston, Concord and Montreal (above) ; Northern ; Concord and Portsmouth ; Concord and Claremont ; Concord, Manchester and Lawrence. 2 Connects with Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers Railway. Steamer "Lady of the Lake," during the season of navigation, leaves Weirs for Centre Harbor, Wolfboro', &c. on arrival of each train. Stages leave Plymouth and Littleton, or White Mountains and Franconia Notch. Stages leave Sanbomton for New Hampton and Gilmanton— Mere- dith Village for Conway— Plymouth for Franconia— Littleton for Lan- caster and other places (see Connecticut & Passumpsic Railway) on the arrival of the first up-train from Boston. Connecticut and JPassumpsir Hirers Hailirai/* GOING SOUTH. STATIONS. GOING NORTH. i «; Expb's Mail. A.M. Fares. 1 X Fares. Expr's P.M. Mail. P.M. LEAVE ARRIVE P.M.' 700 700 ..North Derby... 110 125 650 715 718 5 Newport 105 4 20 113 6 38 7 27 730 30 10 Coventry 100 3 95 100 625 7 37 7 40 55 15 . . .Barton Landing. . . 95 3 75 12 50 615 7 54 7 57 80 20 Barton 90 3 65 12 33 5 59 809 812 95 25 South Barton 85 3 50 12 22 5 48 829 S32 1 30 33 77 3 15 11 58 5 22 855 8 57 1 65 42 . . Liyndonville. . . 68 2 75 11:38 5 02 9 08 910 1 80 47 . . St. Johnsbury Oen . 63 2 60 1120 4 43 . 9 17 918 1 90 49 . . St. Johnsbury . 61 2 50 1113 4 36 9 23 9 25 2 00 52 Passumpsic 58 2 40 1104 4 27 - 2 15 56 McLeran's 54 2 25 945 9 46 2 30 59 51 2 10 10 43 406 9 50 9 51 2 40 62 Mclndoes 48 2 00 10 37 ^4 00 2 55 66 Ryegate 44 1 85 i* 1010 10 13 2 70 70 ...Wells River... 40 1 65 10 16 3 43 10 20 10 28 2 85 74 Newbury 36 1 50 954 3 25 10 26 10 35 2 95 77 . . . South Newbury. . . 33 1 40 9 42 308 10 36 10 45 3 10 81 Bradford 29 1 25 9 32 2 57 10 53 1102 3 35 88 Fairlee 22 95 916 2 41 1107 11 16 3 55 93 ...North Thetford... 17 ■75 9 04 2 29 11 15 11 24 3 65 95 Thetford 15 05 8 55 220 1126 1135 3 85 100 Pompanoosuc 10 45 8 44 2 09 1141 1150 4 05 106 Norwich 4 25 8 30 155 1151 12 00 4 20 110 White R. June. *8 20 145 P.M. NOON. ARRIVE LEAVE A.M. P.M. * This train does not run on Mondays. Special Train Sundays leaves White R. Junction 12.15 a.m., arriving at North Derby 5.00 a.m. RAIL/WAY CONNECTIONS. At Wells River with White Mountains Railway for Littleton (the nearest railway station to White and Franconia Mountains) and Boston. Concord and Montreal Railway for Concord. At White River Junction, with Northern (N. H.) Railway for Concord, Manchester. Portsmouth. Nassau, Worcester, Providence, Lowell, Lawrence, and Boston. — Vermont Central Railway, for Water- bury. Mount Mansfield. Montpelier, Burlington, Ogdensburgh. Mon- treal, and Saratoga Springs. — Vermont Central and Conn. River Line, for Windsor, Bellows Falls, Rutland, Saratoga Springs. Keene, Fitch- burg, Worcester. Providence. Brattleboro'. Northampton, Springfield, Hartford, New Haven, New York, and Southern Cities. Connecticut fc3 ft -0 B- - - - - B- - - - D. C« « 00«'>u-iOOOOOQ»^ o o o o ■*0O COCMDmHmi-iHH M M M r^O E- E. - - - E ^ 1 i—i -— Q VI OO 0<0> rl H H i- m e» i>n a O O r» vo O t-» t-~ c* f* r« M hi r« r-~ rh C-~0O O ►" N r*> -"f "+ ■<*• <^vO a Z a U ^ 3 « f . a, a cc 2 3 ^ w &, a, S3 w £ ft, u 5 H o S f, = 9 5- e E E £ J ex, CI) (4 »s bfi 8 O O O Z o (^s \r\ o u g'^, F b ■* J K Ou a p = ( t^ O tr\ u-i O O C O O O C C u »-, <^^inrl o ■^" r ^O r^r*N o Q f S MH^ M tl M r« \r\ xr\\C O •A r p« o "*vO w*wwo O >« r- a •i H ^ f» m+HOOO C>0 »C B o ^ i— 1 <3 t3 <-> o3 «a O B > n * b - i» 9i rt §i£gt fec^ u ^s 45 1 §3 "2 J3 cl O S u § « ^ ^ « c ^ o o o ^- 0J o e ^ J! 3 ^ a. o a -C 9 o ^ o & ™" S «- o ^ w 3 O „ W P3 Ol, t« «d J3 V o 3h •* ■* *• C L- - < < a = c So 3 ca >. ad o 0,g a 'i| ^5 O SCI- * 'sis' Z MS a ^ s « g « g < %IH o $< 3-3 « a ^"3=5 JS sjs§ a 831* — «-(§«„ = ao ^ GO 00 i *;** O I 2-o 2 e'"'° I i 1 1 p 5 oiS © P3 N* N£ •9W •<► « $ « *B 1 s © ^ ^ * *< 8 Nil © M u o © o © u a o © +-> d o o -t-> M Si o © BB-Bjjj fi-. E OOOv-vOOOOO o II M i 5 -a^ a ^~ ti o j* £ o 6- 2 E; - - E m Q\ Ovm tJ-O oo ^m •2 s! o e 'St • . eo o (3 Oh ,.« -J3 3 1 b« 5 a 5 "u •? « a > c ^ _!5 ■-< ^1 en Or* IT! ' « S u - 8 a ■«P § •a fl"3 a « -is. •s a-s-g-sy-s S \r, =>!Z &£ S a g a" a "3 c o P o .~o 3 o O oo SO So n '3 "* "S* *" 6o*° CO o, O =3 JS # '3 •^ « 60 fc S3 "5 P3 . a g •S'S §P3 03 t3 B S p « P5 ,=« o*3 o boo a o o o aO ao.-eoo « co !> ROUTE VII.— New York Central Railway, STATIONS. LEAVE New York. Boston. Troy Miles. Albany Schenectady . . 17 Amsterdam j 33 Fonda | 44 Palatine Bridge ... 55 Fort Plain 58 St. Johnsville 64 Little Falls 74 Herkimer 81 Frankfort 86 Utica 95 Rome 110 Verona 118 Oneida 123 Canastota I 128 Chittenango 134 ^[•Syracuse 148 Jordan 165 Port Byron 173 Clyde 186 Lyons , 193 Newark 199 Palmvra 206 Fairport 218 ae. Rochester. 229 lv. Rochester Brockport Albion Medina Lockport Suspension R. Niagara Falls ARRIVE Expr's Expr's Expr's P.M. A.M. A.M. 1100 8 00 10 45 P.M. A.M. A.M. 9 00 5 00 8 30 7 20 8 10 9 50 9 15 945 9 53 10 05 10 28 10 45 10 55 1140 12 20 12 42 12 52 105 120 155 2 05 2 50 3 10 3 45 4 03 415 435 510 535 120 210 2 45 5 00 5 55 640 Mail. Mail. Mail. Accom. P.M. 400 P.M. 6 30 P.M. P.M. 3 00 3 00 P.M. 11 00 1150 12 25 6 45 6 50 1150 12 05 7 40 1 10 8 49 9 35 2:30 £ 25 229 246 260 269 285 304 306 555 6 47 7 30 810 8 50 940 9 50 9 55 10 40 1107 11 26 1157 12 35 12 50 3:35 418 4 47 510 5 52 640 655 515 5 25 610 700 7 32 8 22 845 9 20 10 06 10 35 1100 11:55 12 25 12 40 A.M. 12 25 1 10 7 08 2 05 3 30 740 1 20 2 28 3 35 7 48 128 8 03 2 45 4 05 828 8 47 9 00 9 45 2 08 3 05 500 3 05 4 05 5 30 10 20 3 40 4 35 10 50 4 12 1102 1115 440 555 6 05 6 55 7 38 8 10 9 00 9 20 10 06 10 35 1100 1135 12 25 12 40 P.M. A.M. A.M. P.M. P.M. 12 10 100 140 2 13 3 00 3 50 400 P.M. A.M. 8 45 9 35 10 25 1100 1135 1145 12 00 12 28 ! 12 50 103 150 2 35 3 00 3 12 3 28 3 45 430 4 45 538 605 640 705 7 20 7 43 8 20 850 P.M. 12 15 125 2 25 3 30 4 15 425 4 50 525 5 52 610 6 55 750 8 25 8 40 900 9 25 10 20 10 25 1130 12 00 12 50 120 140 210 3 30 415 615 717 800 8:30 9 30 10 30 10 45 A.M. ROUTE VIII.—Gh°and Trunk Railway of Canada, STATIONS. Miles. 5 11 12 22 27 36 41 47 62 70 80 86 91 98 103 109 122 134 149 166 175 183 186 193 196 203 211 221 Express. Express. Pass. Pass. LEAVE Portland 1 , Falmouth Yarmouth Junc'n 2 New Gloucester. .'. Danville Junct'n 3 Mechanic Falls 4 .. Oxford South Paris Bryant's Pond Bethel Gilead Shelburne Berlin Falls Milan West Milan Northumberland. . North Stratford... arrive I Island leave j Pond.. Norton Mills Coaticook Compton P. M. 1 10 1 25 1 40 1 45 2 15 2 30 3 05 3 23 3 45 4 25 4 55 5 25 5 40 6 00 6 25 6 45 7 10 8 05 9 00 10 00 10 00 10 50 11 25 11 50 12 00 12 25 12 40 1 00 1 25 2 15 A. M. 6 00 6 45 7 20 7 40 7 48 8 07 8 20 8 40 9 05 9 30 A- M. 7 10 7 25 7 40 7 45 8 20 8 40 9 08 9 20 9 55 11 00 11 40 1 00 1 30 4 30 5 05 5 30 6 00 7 15 9 00 10 30 6^AM 7 45 9 15 9 55 10 15 10 50 11 20 11 45 12 20 1 40 Q o era CD W Waterville Lennoxville Brompton Falls. . . Windsor ar Richmond 5 Pass. A. M. leave Quebec 6 Point Ie Mav Bridgev'le Woodbury £•* &W M n and Sftlem At ' co,,M<> - S S Si; T. « i Paulding « -! York town g Oakland b I Alloway ^ Middle'town * Salem < g 1 Newfleld g ] North Vineland § Vineland South Vineland Jlillville f Glassboro Clayton Franklinville Cranes Malaga f Millville Manumuskin Belleplain Woodbine Mt. Pleasant. Seaville Swain C. M. Court House Millerton Rio Grande Bennett Cape m.ay * This train n ns only Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, from Millville. 10 Morris & Essenc Hallway, STATIONS. LEAVE j New York, j foot Barclay St. Hoboken Newark l Orange South Orange — Maplewood Millburn Summit Chatham Madison Morrlstown.. Morris Plains Denville -... .... Boonton Rockaway Dover Drakesville Stanhope Wate rloo :i . . ..... Andover Newton Hackettst'ii.. Wash ington 4 Water Gap Stroudsburg Scran toii ._ Broadway Stewartsville Phillipsburg 5 Easton ° Bethlehem Allen town Catasauqua Walnut Port Mauch Chunk Wilkesbarre Scranton ARRIVE TRAINS LEAVE NEW YORK. A.M. A. M. A. W. P. M. 7 00 9 25 !10 08 10.33 12 50 I 1 05 I 3 40 83 Mis. j Mail. Exp. I Ace. Ace. Mail|Exp. Exp. Ace. 8 45 9 05 11 05 11 25 11 30 3 00 11 45 12 10 12 26 12 34 12 39 12 44 12 55 1 05 1 12 1 25 P. M. P. M. P. M. 3 30 4 00 4 15 4 40 00 P. M. 5 10 6 06 10 P. M. 6 30 6 45 7 10 7 28 7 38 7 42 7 48 8 00 8 10 8 17 w 1. Connects with Newark & Bloomfield Railway for Bloomfield, Montclair, &c. 2. Connects with Boonton Branch for Boonton. 3. Connects with Sussex Railway for Andover and Newton. 4. Connects with Del., Lack. & Western Railway for Water [Gap,^ Stroudsburg, Scran- ton, and Great Bend. 5. Connects with Belvidere Del. Railway for Belvidere,&c. 6. Connects with Lehigh Valley Railway for Bethlehem, Allentown, Mauch Chunk; and also with Lehigh & Susquehanna Railway for Mauch Chunk, Wilkesbarre, and Scranton, and all points in the Pennsylvania coal regions. Long Island Rait way. STATIONS. Mis- I New YorK, James Slip — 34th Street, E. R. Hunter* s Point Woodside 3 Wintield 4 Jamaica H) Willow Tree 11 Queen's 13 Hyde Park 16% Mineola 19 Hempstead — [21% Roslvn 23>g Glen Cove 27% Locust Valley 29% Westbury 22 Hicksvilfe '25 Mail. Pass. Exp. Pass. Pass. Pass. Sund. i.M. A.M. ;P. M. P. M. P. M. P. M. A. M 8 no 8 15 8 30 8 40 8 45 00 9 10 9 20 9 31 10 30 10 45 11 00. 11 10: 11 14 11 30 11 35 11 41 11 50 12 00 3 30 3 45 4 on 12 9 40 12 10 1*2 10 12 30 12 40 4 36 4 53 5 03 9 40 12 10 9 50 12 20 4 30 I l.i 5 00 5 10 5 14 5 30 .-> 40 5 50 6 00 6 10 6 10 (5 25 6 30 6 10 6 20 1-5 30 5 45 6 00 6 10 ByoBset 29 10 05 12 32 Huntington 34>, 10 20 12 45 Centerport 37 10 -28 12 52 Nortliport 40 10 35 100 Jerusalem "^8 Farmingdale 30 Deer Park 36 Thompson to North Islip. . 42% Lakeland 48 Holbrook 50 Waverly 52 Medford 54 Bellport 56% Yaphauk 59 Manor 65 Riverliead 73 Jamesport 78 Mattituck 8-2 Cutchogue 85 Hermitage 88 Southold 90 Cireenport 94 AF.KIVE 10 00 10 08 10 25 10 36 10 43 10 56 11 02 11 08' 11 14 11 20 11 27 11 45 12 10 12 25 12 37 12 47 12 57 1 03 1 15 P. M. 5 16 5 24 5 41 5 5s 6 13 6 24 i; 32 37 13 55 7 00 7 20 7 35 6 32 7 52 6 45 8 10 52 8 20 7 00 8 30 6 30 6 40 6 58 7 10 r 18 7 35 7 41 7 47 7 55 6 35 8 02 6 41 8 10 6 58 7 22 7 34 7 43 7 52 8 00 8 06 8 20 M. P. M. P. M- P. M. 7 00 7 15 7 30 7 40 7 44 8 00 8 05 8 10 8 20 8 30 *8 45 9 00 9 10 9 15 9 30 9 a5 9 40 9 50 10 00 7 16 8 40 7 18 10 10 7 35 10 25 7 45 10 35 10 10 10 20 10 33 10 46 10 53 11 00 * Sundav Train. t Runs daily. Other trains daily, Sundays excepted. PASSENGER STEAMBOATS FROM New York for Domestic Ports. Where not otherwise designated, the boats named below depart daily, Sundays excepted. Albany (People's Night Line). — Steamboats St. John, Monday, Wednesday and Friday 5 and Drew, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, at 6 p.m., from Pier 41, N. R., foot of Canal street. Returning, leave Albany at 8 p.m. Albail y aild Troy (Day Line). — Boats C. Vibhard and D. Drerc, leave Desbrosses street at 7 A.M., and 34th street at 7.15, connecting with railroads for all points North and West. Albany and Troy (Night Line). — Steamboats C. Vanderbilt, Monday, Wednesday and Friday 5 and Connecticut, Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday, at 6 p.m., from Pier 44, N. R., foot of Spring street. Returning, leave Troy at 6, and Albany at 8 p.m. Boston, via Newport, Fall River and Taunton, and also New Bedford, Martha's Vineyard, Nantucket, and all Cape Cod towns. — Steamboats Empire State, Monday, Wednesday and Friday 5 and Old Colony, Tuesday, Thursday and Sat- urday, at 5 p.m., from Pier 28, N. R., foot of Murray street. Boston, via Stonington, Conn., and Providence, R. I. — Steam- boats Stcnington, Monday, Wednesday and Friday 5 and Narragansrtt, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, at 5 p.m., from Pier 33, N. R., foot of Jay street. Returning, leave Boston, from Boston and Providence Railroad Depot, at 6 p.m. Bo§t011, via Providence, R. I. — Steamers Electra, Galatea, etc., every afternoon at 5, from Pier 27, N. R. Returning, leave at 5 p.m. STEAMBOATS. 149 BostOll, via New London, Norwich and Worcester. — Steamboats City of Boston, Monday, Wednesday and Friday $ and City of Lawrence, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, at 5 p.m., from Pier 40, N. R., foot of Canal and Watt streets. Returning, leave Boston, from Boston and Albany Rail- road Depot, at 5.30 p.m. Bridgeport, Colin. — Steamboat Bridgeport, daily, except Sundays, at 12 m., from Pier 35, E. R., foot of Catharine street. Returning, leave Bridgeport at 1 1 p.m. CatsRill, landing at Highland, Rhinebeck, Barrytown, Tivoli, Maiden, West Camp, and Germantown. — Steamboats Thomas Powell and Neio Champion, alternate daily, Sun- days excepted, at 5 p.m., from Pier 34, N. R., foot of Franklin street. Returning, leave Catskill daily, except Saturdays, at 6 p.m. College Point and Westchester. — Steamboat Osseo, daily, except Sundays, at 10.30 a.m. and 4 p.m., from Pier 22, E. R., Fulton Market slip. Stops at Westchester only on 4 p.m. trip. Returning, leave College Point at 8 a.m. and 4 p.m. Discontinued. Elizabctliport, Bergen Point and Mariner's Harbor. — Steamboat Kill Von Ku// f daily, Sundays excepted, at 5 p.m. Returning, leaves Elizabethport at 7.30 a.m. Flushing. — Steamboat Osseo, on Tuesday, Thursday and Satur- day, at 10.30 a.m., from Pier 22, E. R., Fulton Market slip. Returning, leaves Flushing, same days, at 1 p.m. Fort Lee, Bull's Ferry and Pleasant Valley. — Steamboat Thomas E. Hulse, at 10 a.m. and 5.30 p.m., from Pier 51, N. R., foot of Christopher street. Returning, leaves Fort Lee at 7.15 and 4 p.m. On Sundays, leaves New York at 10 a.m., 2 and 5.30 p.m. Leaves Fort Lee 7.30 and 11.45 a.m., and 4.30 p.m. Lands at 34th street. Fort L«ee, Shady Side and Pleasant Valley. — Steamboat Palisade, at 10.30 a.m. and 5 p.m., from Pier 42, N. R., foot of Spring street. Returning leaves Fort Lee at 7.30 a.m. and 1.30 P.M. Grassy Point, landing at Yonkers, Irvington, Tarrytown and Sing Sing. — Steamboat General Sedgwick, at 3.10 P.M., daily, except Sundays, from Pier 30, N. R.,foot of Chambers 150 STEAMBOATS. street. Returning, leaves Grassy Point at 6.30 a.m., landing as above. Harlem, landing at 8th street, Astoria and 120th street. — Steamboats Sylvan Grove and Sylvan Stream, at 7, 8, 9.15 and 11.30, 1.30, 3.15, 4.15, 5.10 and 6.15 p.m., daily, Sundays excepted, from Pier 24, E. R., Peck slip. Return- ing, leave Harlem at 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10.30 a.m., and 1.30, 3, 4.15 and 5.15 p.m. Hartford and Connecticut River Landings.— Steamboats State of New York, City of Hartford, and Granite State, daily, Sundays excepted, at 4 p.m., from Pier 24, E. R., Peck slip. Returning, leave Hartford at 4 p.m. HaverStraW, landing at Yonkers, Tarrytown (by ferry), Nyack and Sing Sing. — Steamboat Adelphi, daily, Sundays ex- cepted, at 3 p.m., from Pier 34, N. R., foot of Harrison street. Returning, leaves Haverstraw, stopping as above, at 7 a.m. Hud§011. — Steamboats Nuhpa, Monday, Wednesday and Friday 5 and Rip Van Winkle, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, at 5 p.m., from Pier 51, N. R., fcot of Christopher street. Returning, leaves Hudson daily, except Saturday, at 6.30 P.M. Keyport, IV. J. — Steamboat Matteawan, daily, except Sunday, at 3 p.m., from Pier 26, N. R., foot of Barclay street. Returning, leaves Keyport at 8 a. m. Long* Rrancll, Tom's River, etc., via Port Monmouth, and Raritan and Delaware Bay Railroad. — Steamboat jfesse Hoyt, daily, Sundays excepted, at 4 p.m., from Pier 30, N. R., foot of Chambers street. Returning, leaves Long Branch at 7.20 a.m.; Tom's River at 6 a.m. Long Branch. — Leaves Pier 32, Duane street, 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. Leaves Long Branch at 7.15 a.m. and 3 p.m. Newark, IV. J. — Steamboat Thomas P. Way, daily, Sundays excepted, at 4 p.m., from Pier 26, N. R., foot of Barclay street. Returning, leaves Newark at 7.30 a.m. On Sundays, leaves Newark at 8 a.m. and 2 p.m. ; and New York at 10.30 a.m. and 4.30 p.m. New Redford, MaSS. — Steamers Acushnet and Wamsutta, Wednesday and Saturday, at 3 p.m., from Pier 13, E. R., STEAMBOATS. 151 foot of Old slip. Returning, leave New Bedford on Wednesday and Saturday, at 3 p.m. Mew Hamburg. — Steamers J. L. Hasbrouck and D. S. Miller, Tuesday and Friday, at 5 p.m., from Pier 35, N. R., foot of Franklin street. Returning, leaves New Hamburg on Monday and Thursday, at 8 p.m. IVeW Haveil, Colin. — Steamboats Continental, Elm City, Granite State, and Traveler, daily, Sundays excepted, at 3.15 p.m. and 11 p.m., from Pier 25, E. R., Peck slip. Returning, leaves New Haven at 1 1 p.m. Mew Haven, Coilll. — Steamer New Haven, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 4 p.m., from Pier 26, E. R., Peck slip. Returning, leaves New Haven, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, at 1 1 p.m. \or\valk, connecting with Danburv Railroad. — Steamboat Nelly White, daily, except Sunday, at 2.45 p. m., from Pier 37, E. R. From 34th street, E. R.,at3 p.m. Re- turning, leaves Norwalk at 7.45 p.m. Myack, landing at Yonkers, Dobbs' Ferry, Hastings, Tarrytown, • Haverstraw, and Grassy Point. — Steamboat Chrystenah, daily, Sundays excepted, at 3.30 p.m., from Pier 34, N. R., foot of Harrison street. Returning, leaves Nyack at 7.15 a.m., landing as above. Roslyn, landing at Whitestone, Baylis Dock, Great Neck, Sands Point, Glen Cove, Mott's Dock, and Glenwood. — Steam- boat Arrozvsmith, daily, except Sundays, from Pier 24, E. R., Peck slip, at 3.30 p.m. Returning, leaves Roslyn, stopping as above, at 7 a.m. Sag Harbor, landing at Orient and Greenport. — Steamboat Artisan, Saturdays, at 4 p.m., from Pier 26, E. R., Peck slip. Returning, leaves Sag Harbor, Mondays, at 3 p.m. Smith's Steamboat Line for Yonkers, Hastings, Dobbs' Ferry, Irvington, Tarrytown, Nyack, Rockland Lake, Sing Sing, Haverstraw, Verplanck's Point, Grassy Point, and Peekskill, from foot of Harrison street, N. R., daily, at 3.30, 4, and 4.30 p.m. Particulars at the office, on Pier No. 34. Soutll Amboy, M. J., connecting for Philadelphia. — Steam- boat Richard Stockton, daily, Sundays excepted, at 6.30 a.m. and 2 p.m. 152 STEAMBOATS. Staten Inland (North Shore). — Steamboats Pomona, Thomas Hunt, and Huguenot, at 7.30, 9.30, 11 a.m., and 12.20, 2, 4, 5, and 7.30 p.m., from Pier 19, N.R. Returning, leave for York as follows : Elm Park. Pt. Richmond. Factoryville. S. S. Harbor. N. Brighton. 6.00 A. M 6.15 A.M. 6.25 A.M. 6.30 A.M. 6.35 A.M. 7.40 " 8.00 " 8.IO " 8.15 i; 8.25 " coo " 9.10 " 9.15 " 9.25 " 10.45 " 11.00 " 11.10 " 11.15 " n.25 " 12.15 P.M 12.30 P.M 12.40 P.M. 12.45 P.M. 12.55 P.M. 2.00 " 2.10 "• 2.15 " 2.25 " 3.15 " 3.JO " 3.40 •' 3.45 " 3.50 " 5.00 ' u 5.10 ■• 5.20 il 5.25 '" 5.30 " On SUNDAYS, leave New York at 8.30 and 11.30 a.m., 1.30, 4, and 6.30 p.m. Returning, leave as below for New York: Elm Park. Port Richmond. Factoryville. New Brighton. 7.I0A.M. 7.10 A.M. 7.20 A.M. 9.45 A.M. 9.55 " IO.05 " IO.15 " 12.15 P-M. 12.25 P.M. 12.35 P.M. 12.45 P.M. 2.45 „" 2.55 " 3.05 " 3.15 " 5.00 " 5.10 " 5.20 " 5.30 '* State II Island (South Shore). — Steam Ferry-boats hourly for Vanderbilt Landing, from 7 a.m. till 7 p.m. Night boats for Quarantine andStapleton Landing, at 9 and 11.45 p.m., ■ from foot of Whitehall street. Returning, leave Vander- bilt Landing hourly, from 6 a.m. till 7 p.m., and at 10 p.m. Also run on Sundays, leaving as above, except at 7 a.m., from Vanderbilt Landing, instead of 6 a.m. 5 and night boat from New York at 10 p.m., instead of 9.45 and II P.M. INDEX. Academy of Mount St. Vincent. 10. Adirondack Region, The. 63. Anthony's Nose, 18. Ammonoosuc River. 57. Ammonoosuc Valley. 57. Ardenia Cold Spring. 21 . Atlantic City. 181. Athens. 88. Avon Springs. 181. Avalanche Lake. 07. Ballston Springs. 34. Battle-field of Chryseler's Farm. 96. Battle of Lake Champlain. 48. Bath, L. I.. 181. Basin. The, 61. Barnegat. 24. Bartlett Settlement. 54. Bald Mountain. 61 . Bay of Quinte, 99. Bear Mountain, 18. Beverly Island. 18. Bergen Point. 181. Bedford Springs, 181 . Bender's Cave, 81. Bearing and Distances of White Mountains. 58, 59. Biddle's Stairs. 77. Birchdale Springs. 131. Black Mountain" 42. Bloomingdale. 7. Bloodv Point, 18. Bloody Pond, 40. Brock's Monument, 84. Brockville, 97. Budd's Lake. 138. Burlington Bay. 47. Buttermilk Falls, 18. Burning Spring. 88. Bull's Ferry, 7. Bull Hill. 19. Burlington. Vt.. 47. Butter Hill. •>?. Cape May. 119. Cave of the Winds, 76. Cannon, or Profile Mountain. 60. Carter Mountains, 52. Carl's Mill, 13. Cascade Rapids. 95. Caughnawaga. 95. Caldwell. 4(). Caldwell's Landing. 17. Canterbury. 23. Cedar Hill Cottage. 11. Cedar Lawn. 23. Claverack Falls. 38. Charlotte, 98. Cherry Pond. 54. Chateaugay Woods, Route into, 68. Chapin's Island. 76. Chasm Tower. 80. Chimney Point, 47. Chittenango White Sulpb. Springs. 188. Chateau-Bigot. 105. College Hill. 25. Coeymans, 33. Cornwall Canal. 96. Coburg. 98. Cooper, Fenimore, 29. Cold Spring and Undercliff, 33. Cornwall Landing, 23. Columbia Springs. 33. Constitution Island, 19. Continental Village, 17. Conway Settlement. 54. Cooperstown. 188. Coney Island. 122. Cold "Spring. 120. Coxsackie, 33. Croton Lake, 122. Croton Point. 14. 154 INDEX. Crown PoiDt, 47. Crystal Falls, The, 58, Cumberland Bay, 48. Davis Road, 55. Devil's Hole, The, 79. Devil's Den, The, 57. Delaware Water Gap, 122. Deal River, 117. Diamond Island, 41. Dial Mountain, The, 67. Dickenson's Landing, 96. Dixville Notch, 58. Dixville Hills. The, 58. Dobb's Ferry 10. Doom, or Twelve Kile Island, 41. Eagle Cliff, 60. Eatontown. 117. Echo Lake, 60. Falls of Chaudiere, 105. Fails of St. Anne, 105. Falls of the Au Sable. 48. Falls of Montmorenci, 104. Fishkill Landing, 24. Flume, The. 57. Fort Lee, 7. Fort Washington, 8. Fort George, 40. Fort Independence, 18. Fort Anne, 44. Fort Edward, 44. Fort Ticonderoga, 43. Fort Clinton, 18. Fort Montgomery. 18. Fort Fayette, 15. Fort Kent, 47. Fort Schlosser, 79. Fort Adams, 111. Fort Wolcott, 111. Fort Henry, Lake Champlain. 47. Font Hill, 10. Francis Abbott, the Hermit. Bath- ing-place of, 78. Franconia Hills, The. 59. French Creek, 98. Gallows Hill, 16. Garfield's, 42. Garrison's Station, 19. Gananoque, 97. German town, 26. Genesee Falls. 122. Gettysburg, Pa., 122. Giant's Stairs. The, 56. Giant's Grave, The, 57. Glen, The, 52. Glen Ellis Falls, 58. Glenn's Falls, 39. Goat Island, 75. Grand Island, 79. Great Notch, 56. Great Indian Pass, 67. Greenwood Lake, 122. Greensburg. 13. Guttenburg, 7. Gull Island, 78. Gulf of Mexico (White Mts.), 55. Hanging Rocks, 113. Haver straw, 15. Hastings, 10. Hamilton, 99. Harris's Bay, 41. Hermit's Lake, 58. Highlands, The, 17. High Peak, 30. Horse-Shoe Fall, The, 78. Hudson, 31. Hyde Park, 25. Idle wild. 23. Indian Emporium, 76. Iona Island, 18. Irvington, 11. Iris Island, 76. Israel's River, 54. Isle Perrot, 95. Islip, 123. John Brown's Tract, Route to, 71. Kaatskill, 26. Kaaterskill, or High Falls, 28. Kaatskill Mountains, The, 27. Keyport, 123. Keene Mountains, 67. Kinderhook Landing, 33. Kingston, Canada, 97. Kingston, N. Y., 25. Kosciusko's Garden and Mnt„20, Lake Champlain, 46. Lake George, 39. Lake Henderson, 67. INDEX. 155 Lake Mahopac, 17, 123. Lake Memphremagog. 123. Lake Ontario. 98. Lake of the Clouds. 58. Lake Pleasaut, 67. Lake Sanford, 67. Lake St. John, 105. Lake St. Fr ncis, 96. Lake St. Louis. 95. Lake St. Charles. 104. Lake Winnipisaukee. 138. Lancaster. 54. Lachine. 94. Lewiston, 84. Lebanon Springs. 123. Livingston Mansion. The. 11. Lily Pond, 113. Lorette, 104. Long Branch. 116. Long Lake. 38. Long Island (Lake George). 41. Long Sault Rapids. 96. Low Point. 24. Locust Hill. 10. Lord Howe's Point. 4:;. Lovell Pond's, 54. Luna Island. 77. Maitland (Canada). 97. Maiden, 26. Marked Rock, 114. Matteawan, 24. Memorial Church, The. 13. Mississiquoi Springs. 123. Montreal, 86. Moodna. 28. Moreau Station. 44. Moses Rock. 28. Mountains of Jackson, 54. Mount Adams, 52. Mount Camel's Hump. ."U. Mount Chocorua, 55. Mount Colden. 67. Mount Crawford. 56. Mount Defiance. 43. Mount Dunderberg. 16. Mount Franklin, 55. Mount Hermon Cemetery. 103. Mount Independence, 47. Mount Jefferson, 52. Mount Kearsage. 54. Mount Lafayette. 55. Mount Mansfield. 48. Mount Madison. 54. Mount Marcy, 67. ; Mount McMartin, 67. Mount Mclntyre, 67. Mount Pleasant. 5.'). Mount Resolution, 56. ! Mount Washington. 52. Mount Willard. 57. Mount Willey, 55. Museum. The (Niagara), 82. Nahant. 123. Natural Steps. 104. Navy Island, 78. Newport and Vicinity. 111. Newbnrg. 23. Newman Springs. 117. New Baltimore. 38. New Brighton 138. New Hamburg. 24. New Lebanon Springs. 32. New Paltz Landing. 25. New Rochelle. 123. New Windsor. 23. Niagara Falls. 72. Niagara River. 78. North Mountain. -28. Nyack. 12. Oak Hill Cemeterv. 12. Oakes's Gulf. 56. Oceanville. 117. Ogdensburg, 96. Old Dutch Church. The. 18. Old StoneJJouse, The. 12. Oswego, 98. Ottawa River. The, 7. Palisades. The. 7. Peekskill, 16. Plattsburg. Vt.. 48. Plainfield. 124. Plains of Abraham, 103. Plauterkill Clove 31. Pleasure Bay. 117. Plum Point. 23. Pocasset, 112. Port Hope, 99. Poi\ Kent. 64. Port Washington. 124. Pool. The (White Mountains), 62 Popular Summer Resorts. 121. 156 INDEX. Poughkeepsie, 25. Prescott, 96. Preston Pond, 67. Profile Lake, 61. Profile Kock, 60. Prospect Tower, 78. Prospect Hill, 32. Prospect Hill (Saratoga), 37. Promenade Hill, 32. Prisoners' Island, 43. Quebec, 101. Queenstown, 84. Rapids, The, 75. Red Bank, 117, 124. Rhinebeck, 26. Rhinebeck Landing, 26. Richfield Springs, 124. Rideau Falls, 91. Rocky Point, 114. Rockland Lake, 12. Roger's Slide, 42. Rondout. 25. Rouse's Point, 49. Rye (N. H.), 124. Saratoga Springs, 34. Sabbath-Day Point, 42. Saranac Lakes, The, 63. Saranac Region, Route into, 69. Sam Patch's Leap, 77. Saguenay River, 105. Saugerties, 26. Schooley's Mountain, 124. Sebago Pond, 54. Seneca Lake and Falls, 124. Shark River, 117. Sharon Springs, 125. Shaker Village, 32. Shelving Rock, 41 ; Shrewsbury, 117. Silver Cascade, The, 57. Sing Sing, 13. Sleepy Hollow, 13. Snake Hill, 37. South Mountain, 28. Sparkling Cascade, 57. Spaulding's Lake, 58. Spencer Wood, 105, Spouting Cave, 113. Spuyten Duyvel Creek, 9. State Prison The (N. Y.), 14. Stamford, 125. Staatsburg, 25. St. Catharine's, 100. St. Lawrence River, 85. St. Lawrence, Up the, 94. Star Lake, 58. Stockport, 33. Stony Point, 15. Sunnyside, 11. Sugar Loaf Mountain, 18. Suspension Bridge, 80. Sylvan Grove Cataract, 57. Table Rock, 82. Tarry town, 12. Tappan, 12. Tappan Zee, 11. Tadoussac, 106. Termination Rock, 82. Thousand Isles, The, 97. Three Profiles, The, 77. Tinton Falls, 117. Tivoli, 26. Ticonderoga, 43. Toronto, 99. Tongue Mountain, 41. Trenton Falls, 125. Tuckerman's Ravine, 55. Tupper's Lake, 65. Two Lakes, 28. University of Vermont, 47. U. S. Military Academy, 20. Van Cortland House, 17. Vallonia Springs, 125. Verplanck's Point, 15. Verdrietege's Hook. 15, Village of St. Regis, 96. Walled Banks of the Au Sable, 48. West Point, 19. White Mountains, 50. White Sulphur Springs, 125. Whitehall, 45. Whirlpool, The, 79. William's Rock, 40. Willoughby Lake, 125. Wolfe's Island, 97. Wolfe's Cove, 103. Woolfert's Roost, 12. Wyoming Valley, 125. Yonkers, 9. TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. Brooks Brothers, Having removed from the cor- ner of BROADWAY AND GRAND STS., TO South Union Square, Will continue to keep all articles of MEN'S AND BOYS' CLOTHING. TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. North American Fire Insurance Co., Office, No, 192 Broadway, cor, John Street, BRANCH OFFICE: 9 Cooper Institute, Third. Avenue. INCORPORATED 1S2;J. CASH CAPITAL, - - - $500,000.00 SURPLUS, - - - - 273,834.77 Cash Capital and Surplus, Jan- uary 1, 1869, - - - 773,834.77 Insures Property against los^ or damage by fire, at usual rates. Policies issued and losses paid at the office of the Com- pany, or at its various Agencies in the principal cities in the United States. Directors : Josiah Lane, Wyllis Blackstone, Sidney Brooks, Richard M. Blatchford, j Joshua J. Henry, j Henry t Parish, Acton Civill, John Bryan, John Auchincloss, E. H. R Lyman, Oliver S. Carter, R. W. Bleeckek, Oliver H. Shepard, Jos. A. Sprague. James B. Johnston, jTaMES Jf. PTIS, J^.. J?. ^LEECKER, President. Viee-Pres't. •F. U, pARTER, -jt. pRISWOLD, Secretary. Gen'l Agent. Caleb Swan, Thomas W. Gale, Daniel B. Fearing, Charles Williams, William Whitewright, TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. DUNCAN.SHERMAN&Co. Nos. 9 and 11 Nassau Street, Issue Letters of Credit and Circular Notes for Travelers, Available in all the Principal Cities of the World. Telegraphic Transfers of Funds made to AND THE ZF.A.CIIFIC OO^ST Money Received on Deposit, and usual Interest allowed thereon. 11 TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. CONTINENTAL HOTEL, PHILADELPHIA. J. E. KING-SLEY & CO., Proprietors, TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. J ■iiliijl H O & H n CO O co O Hi I— 1 PI H o TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. THE Mutual Life Insurance Company Issued 5,458 more Policies in 1868 tban any other Company. Has 5.161 more Policies in force than any other Company. Total Income, $4,477,071 more than any other Company. Total Assets, $8,348,243 more than any' other Company. Dividends paid in 1868, $1,350,825 more than any other Company. Ratio of Total Outgo to Income from 4 to 20 per cent, lower than any other Company. OFFICE - - - 144 and 146 BROADWAY. [From The Insurance Times, Extra.} Statement of every Life Insurance Company doing business in New York, and having over 10,000 Policies in force December 31, 1868. C3MPANEES. 3H 3 j,,-. Mutual Life, N. Y |18,895 New York Life 9,105 Manhattan ! 3,801 Knickerbocker 10,759 Equitable ! 11,986 Home j 2,103 Germania l 3,157 Security Life j 4,386 North America 4,387 New England Mutual 5,446 Mutual Benefit, N. J 7,701 Connecticut Mutual 11,960 Union Mutual, Me 3,212 Charter Oak 9,881 JEtna Life, Conn 13,337 Massachusetts Mutual 2,763 Phoenix Mutual 8,229 North Western, Wis |ll,719 60,872 28,340 13,623 20,113 27,669 10,311 14,878 10,624 11,328 21,293 31,324 55,711 11,732 19,028 39,373 10,396 17,761 27,8S7 12,807,320 4,678,280 i 2,097,914 3,869,655 4,840,157 953,078 i 1,223,020 1,005,242 1,686,947 , 2,987,092 5,856,545 8,330,249 1,505,019 ! 3,102,271 J 6,000,227 977,786 i 1,930,833 i 2,417,244 31,017,320 11,000,822 5,338,340 5,170,883 7,721,077 2,010,644 2,452,014 1,854,570 4,002,402 7,487,264 16,547,107 22,669,077 3,730,836 5,102,678 10,350,512 2,469,355 3,664,060 4,755,418 3,257,137- 1,225,8651 403,1781 64,9011 849,979! 196,804: 149,922 ! 93,183 54,550 772,284' 1,906,312: 928,284; 68,784' 687,335' 426,470 39,636 148,571 214,749- 12.57 15.74 15.12 16.54 17.44 17.14 19.04 22.51 21.16 15.77 10.63 11.60 13.60 14.36 13.41 14.75 17.69 21.67 a bo ■S*| O s ] •■§ii i 1 j 9.43 15.84 22.96 14.60 15.51 15.25 22.03 13.60 12.93 16.72 18.03 22.00 31.58 38.08 31.14 32.95 32.39 41.07 36.11 34.09 32.50 28.09 14.66 i 26.26 14.64 I 28.25 11.55 14.25 13.28 8.64 25.92 27.66 28.03 26.37 13.50 i 35.14 FREDERICK S. WINSTON, President. RICHARD A. McCURDY, Vice-President SHEPPARD HOMANS, Actuary. L. C. LAWTON, Asst. Actuary. JOHN M. STUART, Secretary. FRED'K SCHRORDER, Asst. Secretary. William Betts, LL.D., ) Hon. Lucius Robinson, >• Counsel. Hon. Henry E. Davies, j ^^c w- K ?' M ™ £ !• Medical Examiners. G. S. Winston, M.D., j CASH ASSETS OVER THIRTY-TWO MILLION DOLLARS. This Company transacts, business entirely on the and its $32,000,000 Assets include no premium notes, fancy stocks, or other imaginary or questionable securities. TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. EMPIRE tttttal |tfc \ mnirancc tympany 0:F 1VE-W YORK. Office, No. 189 Broadway. Whole Life Policies, absolutely non-forfeitable from payment of first annual premium. Special Insurances non-forfeitable after two annual 'payments. All Policies incontestable for usual causes, and absolutely incon- testable after two annual premiums. All restrictions upon travel and residence removed, and no permits required. No accumulation of interest on Loans or Deferred Premiums, and no increase of annual payment on any class of Policies. Dividends on the Progressive Plan, and also upon the Guarantee Interest Plan. OFFICERS : G. HILTON SCRIBNER, President. GEORGE W. SMITH, Vice-President SIDNEY W. CROFUT, Secretary. LEMUEL H. WATERS, Actuary. THOS. K. MARCY, M.D., Medical Examiner. EVERETT CLAPP, Superintendent of Agencies. DIRECTORS : G. HILTON SCRIBNER President. GEORGE W. SMITH Vice-President. SAMUEL F. B. MORSE No. 5 E. 20th St., N. Y. WM. F. DRAKE Drake Bros., Bankers, No. 16 Broad St., N. Y. M. B. WYNKOOP .... Wynkoop & Hallenbeck, 113 Fulton St., N. Y. HENRY R. MORGAN - - New York and Charleston Steamship Co., 26 Broadway. RICHARD POILLON CAR. Poillon, Shipbuilders, 224 South St. L. W. FROST Continental Life Insurance Company, N. Y. TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. PIANOFOBTI These Instruments are used and endorsed by MAD. PAKEPA ROSA, MISS ALIDE TOPP, J. N. PATTISON, GEORGE F. BRISTOW, G. W. MORGAN, ED. MOLLENHAUER, AND OTHERS, And considered by every Musician of Note the THE BEST PIANOS NOW MANUFACTURED. MISS LOUISA KELLOGG, S. B. MILLS, HARRY SANDERSON, WM. MASON, C. JEROME HOPKINS, LOUIS SCHREIBER, FIFTH AVENUE, cor. W. 16th St., arsw f@n« TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. Important to Travelers. HOUSE'S PATENT Have been introduced with great success as a preventive of BAG- GAGE SMASHING. Wherever they have been used they have been awarded the highest praise, and the leading Hotel Proprietors, Express Companies, and Baggage Men have unanimously endorsed them. Manufacturer & Dealer in Trunks, Traveling Bans, &c, SOLE AGENT, No. 24 Fourth Avenue, New York. Trunks with Shields attached constantly on hand, or made to order. TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. i MpU'g <5pto* 0f J$tMmm : BETWEEN NEW YORK AND ALBANY. NEW YORK TO ALBANY. STBAMEES Capt. W. H. Christopher, Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, Capt. S. J. Roe, Monday, Wednesday, Friday, FROM PIER 41, WORTH RIVER (Near Jersey City Ferry, Desbrosses Street), -A-T 6.00 3F».3VC. r Connecting with Trains of New York Central, Albany & Susquehanna, Rensselaer & Saratoga, and Boston & Albany Railways. H^T* Tickets can be had at the Office on the Wharf, and Baggage checked to destination. Telegraph Office on the Wharf. HEP" Passengers leaving Washington at 8.00 a.m., Baltimore at 9.40 a.m., Philadelphia at 1.20 p.m., arrive in New York at 4.50 p.m., in time to connect as above. ALBANY TO NEW YORK. STEAMERS JOHN, Capt. W. H. Christopher, Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Capt. S. J. Roe, Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday. From Steamboat Landing, at 8,15 P.M., On arrival of Trains from North and West. Baggage conveyed from N. Y. C. R. R. Depot to the Boats, FREE. BF" TICKETS to Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington City, for sale on the Boats, and Baggage checked to destination. Hudson River R. R. Tickets taken for passage, including State- Room Berth. * 6 ' JOHN C. HEWITT, Gen. Ticket Agent. P. C. SMITH, Gen. Agent. TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. NEW YORK AND TROY The old popular established evening line of steamers for Albany and Troy. The fastest night steamers, Connecting the Great West and North with New York* Fare only $1.50, being $1.75 cheaper than by rail; 75 cents less than any other route. The fast floating palaces Vanderbilt and Connecticut, leave alternately daily (Saturdays excepted), from Pier No. 44, North River, foot of Spring street, connecting with all railroads for the VY est, North and East, at the above reduction. Returning steamers leave Troy at 6 p.m., Albany at 7 p.m., or on arrival of evening trains. Fare, Sundays, Two Dollars. For passage, apply at oflices on the Wharf. For freight, which is taken at greatly reduced prices, apply at same place. Hotel LOISTGI- ISL^ISra The attention of Gentlemen and Families is respectfully called to the BATH HOTEL, under new management, Re-furnished, re-fitted, re-organized. Sea Bathing, Boating, Fishing, large Grove, and hand- some Grounds. Having taken the Hotel for a term of years, it will be kept first-class in every respect. E. A. WELLEK, A. C. LEWIS. Stip't. TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. % §*., ® 680 BROADWAY, Wlf WW- NAPOLEON SAEONY. ALFRED S. CAMPBELL. TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. D. RUSSELL, mhmt #mt0t, 835 BROADWAY, Corner, 13th Street, NEW YOBK. t^ 30 1 receive during the season, direct, the latest London styles of Goods, selected from the best West End houses. TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. ftfttfctii* JTJST PUBLISHED. One volume, IMPBESSIONS OF SPAIN. By Lady Herbert. 12mo, fifteen illustrations, cloth extra, $2.00. This is a beautiful book, and contains fifteen full-page illustrations of Churches, Convents, &c, in Spain, with a description of the manners and customs of the Spaniards. GLIMPSES OF PLEASANT HOMES. By the Author of " The Life of Mother McAuley." Illustrated with four full-page illustra- tions. One volume, 12mo, cloth extra, $1.50. WHY MEN DO NOT BELIEVE ; or, The Principal Causes of In- fidelity. Translated from the French of Mgr. Laforet. Cloth, $1.00. " We recommend this book warmly to all thinking young men and women, to all parents and teachers, and all readers generally." — Catholic World. ANNE SEVEBIN, By the Author of tl A Sister's Story/' One vol- ume, 12mo, cloth, $1.50. " It will be a favorite with young ladies." — Catholic Mirror. CBADLE LANDS : Egypt, Palestine, &c. By Lady Herbert. One volume, 12mo, vellum cloth, $2.00, This work contains eight full-page illustrations of the Holy Land, with diagrams of the Holy Sepulchre, the Crib, Churches, &c. " A delightful sketch of Travels in the East." — Pittsburgh Catholic. "This volume is handsomely bound and beautifully illustrated." — New York Times. " A very beautiful book in style, in matter, and in illustration." — Irish Citizen. MEMOBIALS OF THOSE WHO SUFFEBED FOB THE CATH- olic Faith in Ireland during the Sixteenth, Seventeenth, and Eighteenth Centuries. Collected and edited by Myles O'REiLiiY, B.A., LL.D. One volume, crown 8vo, vellum cloth, $2.50. A SISTEB'S STOBT. By Mrs. Augustus Craven. Translated from the French by Emily Bowles. One volume, crown 8vo, pp. 558, cloth extra, $2.50. THE LIFE OF FATHEB BAVIGNAN, S. J. By Father Pon- levot, S. J. One volume, crown 8vo, toned paper, $54.00. " This is one of the very best books that has been given to the Catholic public for many years." — New York Tablet. " The book is replete with interest to the literary as well as the ecclesiastical student." — IBISH ODES' AND OTHEB POEMS. By Aubrey de Vere. One volume, 12mo, toned paper, $2.00 ; cloth, gilt, $2.50. " It is rarely, indeed, that we can give to any book so cordial a welcome or so unqualified an approval." — Sound Table. " Religious faith, patriotism, and poetic feeling unite to make it a very pleasant volume." — Catholic Mirror. Every Catholic book, American or Foreign, in the English language, always on hand. J^ST* Send for a general Catalogue of English and American Catholic Books. The Catholic Publication Society, LAWRENCE KEHOE, General Agent, 126 Nassati Street, - - New York. TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. ESTABLISHED 1808. Successor to A. J. Delatour, Manufacturer 0! # oda Water, And dealer in MINERAL WATERS. Office, 25* WALL ST, Factory, 340 FIFTH ST. Plain Soda iu bottles, and other Mineral Waters, delivered to any order — city or country. HUM NT IffSIf CHICAGO, ILL. One of the largest and best appointed Hotels in the west. Rebuilt, Remodeled, and Refurnished in the richest and most luxurious manner, in 1868. Numerous suites of rooms with Baths and Water, &c. One of Atwood's improved passenger elevators has been introduced, for conveying guests to the different floors. ,i JNO. B. DKAKE, J 7>7?OP7?rKTOK. W. W. Felt. ,. linden Hotel, " Sam'l M. Turner. ) PBOPBIETOB. TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. NARRAGANSET STEAMSHIP CO. FOR BOSTON, via NEWPORT AND FALL RIVER. Consolidation of the Bristol and Fall River Lines. The Largest and most Magnificent Steam- ers in the World. THE BRISTOL, Capt. BRAYTON. THE PROVIDENCE, Capt. SIMMONS. Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays Mondays, "Wednesdays, and Fridays. Will leave Pier 28, North River, foot of Murray street, daily, at 5 p.m. A new and convenient feature of this line, is running a boat on Sunday, at the same hour. By this route, passengers can take train from Newport at 4 a.m., and arrive in Boston at 6 a.m., in time to connect with all Northern and Eastern trains ; or rest undisturbed, breakfast onboard, and take 7.43 a.m. train, and ai-rive in Boston at early business hours. /ames fiSK, jTr., yVL JR.. ^Simons, Managing Director. General Sup't. CHAS. H. VAILE, Gen. Pass'r Agt., Pier 28, North River. ~ GEORGE PARSONS & CO., ™~ Wholesale Jobbers of FIREWORKS, FIRE CRACKERS, FLAGS, LAlSnrERJNTS, &c. Importers of Toys and Fancy Goods, Wo. 12 Park Place, Ketv York, BBBITT HOUSE, Comer F and 14th Streets, T7IT -A- JS ZZXKT G- T O 3XT , JD - O. C. C. WILLARD, Many years Proprietor Hygeia Hotel, Old Point Comfort, Va. Proprietor. TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. LONDON EDITIONS. Having been appointed by Messrs. EYRE & SPOTTISWOODE. ot LONDON, Sole Agents for the sale of their The undersigned beg leave to inform the Trade that they are pre- pared to execute orders for the same, and also for the Publications of the New York Bible an* Common Prayer Book Society, And they respectfully solicit an examination of their Stock, which will be found to be The Laf^gest, ^he Most Varied, And More Beautiful Than has ever been shown by any House in America. A New Catalogue will be Mailed, on Application. London, Bible Warehouse, Cooper Union, New York. TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. '-\ f ¥ .TTlf i M *9 Wartford, Conn. TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. HANBURY SMITH'S MIWlfMA L^ISI^S MANUFACTURED BY Hanbury Smith & Hazard, 35 Pnion SQUARE, New York. These Waters have now been before the public upAvard of 14 years. Their usefulness, and an excellence guaranteed by the character of the manufacturers, have brought them into uni- versal use. When ovev-fatigued or exhausted by heat, they afford im- mediate relief. For the inconveniences produced by travel, and for the results of irregularities, they afford the safest, most prompt, and pleasant cure known. For sale by most respectable Druggists. Ask for Han- bury Smith's. Name branded on the cork. Beware of counterfeits. 12 TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. Stetson House, LONG BRANCH. THIS HOTEL IS NOW OPEN. ROOMS SECURED AND FULL INFORMATION GIVEN AT THE ASTOR HOUSE, NEW YORK. Improvements have been constantly made, and the Hotel is in first-class order. The proprietor, grateful for past favors, respectfully solicits the patronage of his old guests. The Delaware and R. B. R. R. Co. will run a boat at 9 A.m. during the season, returning at 4 p.m. The Express train as usual at 4.15 p.m. (See railway and steamboat tables.) The Sea Shore line will also run two trips, at 10 and 4 o'clock. From Philadelphia, there will be two means of communication — via Camden and Amboy and Freehold, through to Long Branch by rail ; and also over the New Jersey R. R., connecting at Freehold with the Long Branch and Farmingdale road. The Dining Room and Restaurant Will be under the charge of first-class men from the Hotels of New York, and Delmonico's. C. A. STETSON, Jr., Proprietor. TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. IN PREPARATION. THE PACIFIC AND OVERLAND GUIDE. Short cuts to Japan and China, INCLUDING BRIEF SKETCHES OF THE TREATY PORTS oif 1 both empibes, Maps, and Tables of Distances. BY EDWARD HEPPLE HALL. Uniform in Style and Price with the "Tourist's Guide." TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. tin. THE ZtTZETW" YOIELIC STJIfcT- An Independent Daily Newspaper, political and general, giving All the News in a fresh, readable, attractive manner, condensed so that a business man can find time to read the whole. Charles A. Dana, Editor and Manager. Price $6.00 a year, $1.50 for three months. The Sun now has a circulation in New York City and neighbor- hood exceeding that of any other morning paper. This circulation is also steadily increasing. Business men will observe that advertisements in The Sun are not hidden away in the inner folds of an inconvenient blanket sheet, but are printed so as to be seen without difficulty by every reader of the paper. THE WEEKLY STJJNT, Prepared with great care for country subscribers. Political news thoroughly condensed. Farmers 1 and Fruit Growers 1 Clubs fully re- ported. Markets accurately given. Horticultural and Agricultural Department edited by Andrew S. Fuller. Great variety of interesting miscellaneous reading, making it a first-rate GENERAL FAMILY NEWSPAPER, and the cheapest as well as the best metropolitan weekly. Price, $1.00 a year; twenty copies to one address, $17.00 ; fifty copies to one address, $37.50; a hundred copies to one addre3s, $75.00. THE SEMI-WEEKLY STTN". Same size and character as the Weekly, but furnishing twice as rmuch reading matter, and giving the news with greater freshness. Great pains will also be taken in making up the political news of the day for this paper, so that the reader, whatever be his politics, will find the Semi-Weekxt Sun to be an accurate and comprehensive com- pendium of political information. Price, $2.00 a year ; ten copies to one address, $18.00 ; twenty copies to one address, $35.00 ; fifty copies to one address, $80.00; always in advance. Address, THE SUN, New York City. TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 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