itelfH'lfr'' MISSOURI AS IT IS IN 1867. COMMENDATIONS. INDORSEMENT BY THE HEADS OF DEPAETMENTS. We take pleasure in recommending "Parker's Illustrated Historical Gazet- teer" to all who desire information in regard to Missouri. From personal examination of the manuscript, and from the indorsement of those who are familiar with the different portions of the State therein repre- sented, we feel assured that it is authentic and reliable, and believe that a work of this kind, prepared with the care and attention the author has given this, will supply the inci-easing demand for a Complete Gazetteer of Missouri, embracing, as it does, a history of the Territory and State from its first actual settlement (upwards of a century and a half ago) to the present time, and a full description of the State, at large, and by counties, showing its topography, geological formations, mineral wealth, agricultural resources, and commercial advantages, and the most important statistics of every portion of the State, together with many thrilling incidents of the pioneer history of Missouri. By the publication of this Gazetteer the author will accomplish a work worthy of the approval and support of the people of Missouri. [The above was signed by the former Governor, Secretary of State, State Treasurer, State Auditor, Clerk of Supreme Court, Superintendent of Common Schools, President Board of Public Works, Secretary of the Senate, and Attorney-General.] -esg^ss- INDOESEMENT BY THE SENATE. By the Senate the following complimentary resolution, indorsing this work, was unanimously passed: "Resolved, That we highly approve of and appreciate the labors of Mr. N. H. Parker in the preparation of his Illustrated Historical State Gazetteer, and from the care he has taken to collect reliable information and authentic accounts of the many interesting incidents in our early history, and his faithful exposition of the social and moral, as well as the physical, commercial, and industrial re- sources of the State, we cordially commend this work to the patronage of all those desiring information respecting the past history and present condition of Missouri; ,^nd that, by the publication of his Gazetteer, the author will con- tribute much to the development of the various resources of the State, and will merit the support of every one interested in Missouri." 1 COMMENDATIONS BY THE PRESS. COMMENDATIONS BY THE PEESS. We have had the pleasure of spending an hour at the studio of the author of this standard work, and have examined a portion of the manuscripts and illus- trations. The one hundred and fifteen counties in the State are represented, and the history of each county is a book complete in itself, giving full descriptions of the early settlement, physical features, agricultural, commercial, and business statistics of each city and town in the county. Some of the principal points of interest and natural curiosities throughout the State have been drawn and en- graved, expressly for this work. From our personal observation, we can un- qualifiedly pronounce the forthcoming work a most complete book of Missouri. It already has the indorsement of the most prominent men in the State, who have also examined the MSS. A work of this character has long been wanted, and the author merits the support of the entire people of the State. When the Illustrated State Gazetteer is published, we shall take an early op- portunity of reviewing its contents, and setting forth more fully the merits of the work. — Missouri Republican, St. Louis. We have also had the pleasure of looking over some of the manuscripts of this forthcoming work, and have heretofore had occasion to speak of it commen- datorily. We can do no less than indorse every word the "Republican" says of it. It is well worthy the praise and patronage of every Missourian. — Examiner, .Tefferson City, Mo. From what we have seen of the manuscript and illustrations, and from the indorsement it has received from some of the most intelligent men in the State and those most familiar with Missouri, we venture to say that it will be just the work needed — a complete and accurate Gazetteer of Missouri. This book will embrace all information of interest to the citizens of the State, and those seeking homes in the West, including Missouri's early history, its geological and topographical characteristics, and the mineral, manufacturing, mechanical, commercial, and railroad interests, advantages, and statistics of each county. We are under the impression that the information is full, late, and reliable, for it has been collected by the author in person. The illustrations are undoubt- edly accurate and life-like. In a word, it promises to be the best work of the kind yet published in any portion of the great West, and we bespeak for it, in advance, the encouragement of the public. — Democrat, St. Louis. We have examined, with much pleasure, a portion of the manuscript, and a large number of handsomely- executed engravings, for an Illustrated Gazetteer of the State. This noble and useful work is being prosecuted by Mr. N. H. Parker. From the energy and ability of this gentleman, we cannot doubt that he will be able to produce a book that will be of the utmost value, not only to citizens of Missouri, but to all who are seeking homes in our borders. A work of this kind is greatly needed in Missouri, and we have no reason to doubt that the author will present to the public a faithful and reliable Gazetteer of the State. — Examiner, Jefferson City. COMMENDATIONS BY THE PRESS. 3 It will embrace a full description of the State of "Missouri as it is," inevery particular, and will be a complete guide to every man who feels an interest in, or wishes to travel through, that State. The interests of Missouri and Illinois are in some measure identified, and this book should be in the hands of every resident in either State. — Herald, Wilmington, III. This work will be of universal interest. Every individual in every city, town, and village in the State will be eager to have it; because every localitj' in the State has a place upon its pages, and many of them are beautifully illustrated. AVe have seen some of the manuscript, and can say, without hesita- tion, that it promises to be the best work of the kind ever published for any part of the West, and it will be an honor to the State and its compiler. — Iro7i- ton Furnace, Ironton, Mo. We shall have a book of great value, especially to the business men of Mis- souri. — Visitor, Waverly. This gentleman deserves the thanks and encouragement of the people through- out the State, for the enei-gy and thoroughness with which he is prosecuting his work. — West, St. Joseph, Mo. Any one can see at a glance that this woi-k will prove of immense advantage to each county, and give it character abroad. — Mirror, Springfield, Mo. This volume will contain a description of St. Joseph and the surrounding country, its business and commercial advantages, incidents in its early settle- ment, etc., etc. We have been shown the engraving of St. Joseph, designed for it. It is decidedly one of the best executed engravings we have ever seen, and correctly represents the city as it appears from the stand-point where sketched. — Gazette, St. Joseph, Mo. This work has long been wanted, and will be much sought after. The sketch of St. Joseph is perfect ; the smallest houses are visible, and can be recognized at a glance. Nothing is missing, from the largest house down to the smallest. This work should be in the hands of every one who wishes to become conver- sant with the resources of Missouri. — Journal, St. Joseph, Mo. This will be an important work, and should be in the hands of every citizen in the State. It will not only be an interesting work to read — the early times of Missouri equaling those of any other State in the Union in wild adventure and romantic interest — but will contain a mint of knowledge which should be known by every one regarding their own State. — Herald, Neosho, Mo. The plan of the author has been to visit every county in the State, and from the lips of its oldest citizens, from official sources, and personal observation, to embody every matter of interest — historical, agricultural, and commercial. We have seen the notes on Kansas City, and if the book is made up with such mi- nuteness and fidelity as that of Kansas City, it will be the most important his- tory of Missouri ever published. — Journal of Commerce, Kansas City, Mo. The author is able to send forth a book that will speak alike in eloquent tones, to the mind and eye, of the true greatness of our State now, while it will lay the foundation for a future development and population, which can be better imag- ined than described. — Times, Glasgow, Mo. 4 COMMENDATIONS BY THE PRESS. The volume will be beautifully illustrated with engravings of towns (among which will be Brunswick), public buildings, landscape scenery, etc., drawn and engraved expressly for this work. It will be a valuable book for reference to all who take an interest in this great State. — Press, Brunswick, Mo. This book will contain the latest and most reliable information in regard to our noble State, as well as authentic accounts of its early settlement. — The Cen- tral City, Brunswick, Mo. We have no hesitancy in pronouncing it one of the most complete, compre- hensive works of the kind ever published for any Western State or Territory. At this time the great want of the State is an inilux of intelligent, energetic Northern people, who shall infuse new life and energy into the now almost depop- ulated portions of our State. This want has been expressed by our noble Gov- ernor in his inaugural message, by the best men in our Legislature and State Convention, and by the press all over the State. In all the Union "as it was," there is no other State that possesses, to the same extent, the elements of wealth, of greatness, and independence as does Missouri; but the fact avails us nothing unless these latent resources are developed. To insure their development we must make these facts known to the rest of the world — to the overcrowded East, and the manufacturing and mining districts of the Old AVorld, and a tide of im- migration will flow into "free Missouri," such as even the auriferous districts might covet. The reasons are self-evident; almost every mineral of any eco- nomical value exists in working quantities in this State, and of some of the most useful and profitable we have beds of unparalleled extent. The more valuable beds of iron, lead, copper, and marble are in districts penetrated by railroads already completed, or whose completion at an early day is provided for; our public improvements, the cause of education and everything that tends towards the advancement of the best interests of the State, are fostered and encour- aged by the Executive and Legislature. Let these facts be properly and fully set forth before the world, as they will be in the forthcoming work — let a correct view of "Missouri as it is in 1867" — redeemed, disenthralled — be published and widely circulated, and thousands of intelligent and industrious settlers will make their homes with us, bringing with them millions of capital, and energy and principles that shall inaugurate ihe new era in Missouri — that shall build up colleges and school-houses, manu- factories, towns, and villages, and " make the wilderness to blossom as the rose." We heartily congratulate the people of the State, that the work of producing this most desirable result, by the advocacy of the claims of our State, has been undertaken at this time, by one eminently competent to do the subject justice. Mr. Parker has done and is doing the State a noble work, unaided by public or private enterprise, and it is due him, and manifestly to the interest of the State, that his efforts should be sanctioned by the Slate, as far as consistent. — St. Louis Dispatch. MISSOURI AS IT IS IN 1867 MISSOUEI AS IT IS IN" 1867 AN llhistntto |5ist0rixiil iajctttcr of |iiss0iiii EMBRACING TUB (jeograpliy, History, Eesources and Prospects ; the Mineralogical and Agricultural Wealth and Advantages ; the Population, Business Statistics, Public Institutions, etc. of each County in the State. THE NEW CONSTITUTION, THE EMANCIPATION ORDINANCE, AND IMPORTANT FACTS CONCERNING "FREE MISSOURI." AN ORIGINAL ARTICLE ON GEOLOGY, MINERALOGY, SOILS, ETC. BY PROP. G. C. SWALLOW. Also Special Articles on Climate, Grape Culture, Hemp, and Tobacco. llhtsttatclEy toitl] gumcrows M^mJ (^wmimxp. BY • , : , NATHAN H. PARKER, AUTHOR OF "IOWA AS IT IS;" HANDBOOKS OF MINNESOTA, IOWA, KANSAS AND NEBRASKA; SECTIONAL AND GEOLOGICAL MAPS OF IOW.\, MISSOURI, ETC. PHILADELPHIA: J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO. 1867. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1867, by NATHAN H. PARKER, In the Clerk's OfiSce of the District Court of the United States for the Eastei'n District of Missouri. PREFACE. The present times are the beginning of a fresh chapter in the history of Missouri. The tide of intelligent, in- dustrious, and earnest men, the rapid inauguration of public improvements and private enterprises upon a scale heretofore unknown, the employment of skill and capi- tal in mining and manuflicturing, the transformation of thousands of acres of the virgin soil to cultivated farms, and the rapidly growing villages and creation of new business centers, give us every reason to date the opening of the new epoch in the development of the resources of Missouri from the close of the war. After long years of struggle, the State stands to-day redeemed from slavery and oppression, and, as will be seen by reference to the New Constitution herein, she has taken her position in the front ranks of the Free States, and now "guarantees the property, protects the rights, and yields the largest liberty to all her citizens." After having thoroughly acquainted himself with the character of this State, by extensive tours and corre- spondence, during the past ten years, the writer has pre- (ix) pared the following pages, not to produce a pleasing and salable book, but to supply the demand for full and re- liable information about this noble State. Portions of the information, especially the descriptive and historical notes, were collected before the war. After the smoke of our battles had cleared away, and the New Era fairly dawned upon the State by the adoption of the New Con- stitution, it was decided to complete and publish this work without unnecessary delay. Missouri suffered more from the effects of the war than any other Northern State, and the consequent disarrangement of traveling facilities, the removal or destruction of county records, the disruption and disorganization of religious and edu- cational societies, rendered the task of collecting reliable information neither pleasant nor satisfactory. The most careful observer and candid writer cannot, in making tours through a State, give as full and reliable details respecting many important matters as the reader would desire in a standard work ; hence the author has not relied solely upon his personal observations, but sought, from the best available authority in every de- partment, the testimony and experience of practical men. Special articles have been prepared for this work on Geology, Mineralogy, Grape Culture, Wine-making, Hemp Culture, Mineral and Agricultural Resources, Timber, Trees, etc., by persons who were believed to be most competent authority in those several departments. It has been the aim of the writer to address himself to the general intelligence of the educated, observing, and thinking men — to state facts as to the location and char- acter of our various soils and minerals — to describe the resources and advantages of the State, rather than to in- dulge in theoretical speculations. Of course it is impossible for perfect accuracy to be obtained in a work of this description ; for, while the au- thor has left one portion of the State with correct statis- tics to that date, and is visiting other sections, new towns spring up, and older ones grow apace. For instance, Chillicothe is reported to have built 300 and Mexico 200 new dwellings and business houses vithin the past twelve months. The same is true of other portions of the State. Virgil City is so new as not to be located upon any map — only four months old, and now numbers twenty dwell- ings, a steam saw-mill, hotel, stores, brick machines, etc., with prospects so extensive that the projectors have lo- cated the plat in two counties — partly in Cedar and Vernon Counties. Western people who build towns in this manner, who construct railroads at a rate of from three to five miles per day, do not stand still to be photo- graphed, nor care one iota how rapidly they outstrip the statistician's estimates of their business or population. However, from the pains taken, this work is believed to contain very few errors, and none of great importance. Travelers or citizens who may notice mistakes or omis- sions will confer a favor by reporting the same to the author, at St. Louis, by mail, that future editions may be as nearly accurate as possible. To the press of the State, for universal courtesy and co-operation, and to those who have given encouraging notices in advance ; to the several railroad companies, for traveling facilities for visiting points along their lines, and to the many citizens who have done their State good service by contributing information for this work, the author would return his grateful acknowledgments. And here the writer feels called upon to express his gratitude to a generous public for the very liberal pat- ronage bestowed upon his six previous publications on Western States and Territories. Imperfect as have been his labors, his motives have been appreciated, and the census statistics for the past decade indicate that pub- lished information has no unfavorable results upon the increase of the population or wealth of the West. This work is submitted to the public as it is, with the promise of a better, if it is demanded. If the author has succeeded in representing "Missouri as it is in 1867" — if his task shall tend to throw a light over the immigrant's path, to direct intelligent labor and capital where there is unlimited and remunerative demands — if this work shall serve to eradicate or lessen whatever of misconcep- tion or of prejudice may have existed in the minds of strangers — if, as the fruit of his labors, the author shall be able to place Missouri before the world in her true light, and to assign to her that lofty rank among the States which she must attain and forever hold — he will feel that he has not fallen short of the elevated goal of his ambition, and, in the consciousness of duty fulfilled, will reap a golden reward. N. H. P. CONTENTS. ^ PAGE Historical Epoclis of the Mississippi Valley 17 General View of Missouri 20 Topography of Eastern and Western Missouri compared 22 The Submerged Lands of Missouri 30 Outline History 89 Population of Missouri from 1821 to 18G0 inclusive 51 Education 53 Table — Showing number and kind of School-houses, number of Children in Schools, and the Radical and Conservative Vote in each County, in March, 18G6 54, 55 Railways in Missouri 57 Distances by Railroads in Missouri 59 Table of River Distances 60 Elevations in Missouri 61 Climate 62 Table — Showing the order of leafing of Trees, Shrubs, etc., in Missouri... 63 Grape Culture in Missouri 64-95 Making Wine 89 Vine Culture 94 The Lead Region of Southwest Missouri — Granby 95 The Granite and Kaolins of Southeast Missouri 101 The Grand River Country 103 Geology 109 The Mineral Resources of Missouri 140 (XV) XVI CONTENTS. PAGE Building Materials in Missouri 149 Springs in Missouri 154 Agricultural Resources of Missouri 155 Timber and Trees of Missouri 159 Catalogue of Trees and Shrubs observed in Missouri 161 Public Lands 169 The Homestead Law 175 Description of Counties 177-418 Introduction of Steam Navigation upon Western Rivers 419 The Emancipation Ordinance 424 Constitution of the State of Missouri 425 ILLUSTRATED HISTORICAL GAZETTEER OF MISSOURI. BOOK I. HISTORICAL EPOCHS OF THE MISSISSIPPI VALLEY. 1539 — De Soto discovers and crosses the Mississippi. 1542 — Winter-quarters of bis company, probably in Missouri, in 1541-'42. " De Soto died, and was buried in the Mississippi, near mouth of Arkansas River. " Louis de Moscoso succeeds De Soto. He marches to Red River, in Texas. 1543 — Moscoso and his troops march through Arkansas and Missouri. 1544 — De Biedma makes a report of De Soto's Expedition, to the King of Spain. 1671 — The French take formal possession of the Northwest. 1673 — May 13, Marquette and Joliet leave Mackinaw in search of the Mississippi, " June 17, Marquette reaches the Mississippi at the mouth of the Wisconsin, and descended it to the mouth of the Ar- kansas. 1675— May 18, Marquette died. 1680 — La Salle sends Hennepin and Dugay to explore the Upper Mississippi. St. Anthony's Falls named by Hennepin. 1682 — Original naming of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers, and the countries through which they flow. 2 (17) 18 HISTORICAL EPOCHS OF 1G83 — First settlements made by La Salle. He descends the Missis- sippi to its mouth. " March 6, takes possession of the country, and named it "Louisiana." 168'! — March 17, La Salle is killed by some companions, 1696 — War between the Iroquois Indians and the British Colonies, against the Province of Canada. n05 — The Missouri River explored to the mouth of the Kansas River by the French. 1112 — September 14, Louisiana granted to Crozart by Louis XIV. 1717 — August 22, Crozart resigns Louisiana to the Crown. Transfer of the grant to "The Company of the West." First Laws. 1718 — Colonists arrive. I^ew Orleans laid out. Fort Chartres, Illi- nois, commenced. 1719 — Renault leaves France for the Illinois country. Arrives, and dispatches 200 miners, assayers, and artisans in search of precious metals in Illinois and Missouri. Fort Chartres completed. 1720 — Spanish Expedition from Santa Fe, against the French and Missouri Indians. 1724 — Erection of Fort Orleans on an island in the Missouri. Destruction of the Fort. 1731 — January 24, Company of the West surrender their charter to the King of France. 1762 — November 3, Paris Treaty concluded. Louisiana ceded to Spain by France. " Village du Cote (St. Charles) established. 1763 — November 3, M. Laclede arrives at St. Genevieve and Fort Chartres. 1764 — February 15, St. Louis founded by Pierre Laclede Liguest. 1766 — August 11, Grant of land received by Pierre Laclede Liguest, upon which to build St. Louis. 1769 — First occupancy by the Spaniards. 1770 — Spain obtains possession of St. Louis and Upper Louisiana. 1772 — Fort Chartres evacuated. 1778 — General Clark takes possession of Kaskaskia. Cahokia joins the Americans. " June 20, Pierre Laclede Liguest died near the mouth of Ar- kansas River, aged 54. 1780 — St. Louis attacked by 1500 Indians and 140 British. 1785 — Great flood of the Mississippi threatening to inundate St.Loui 1786 — Julien Dubuque first visits the Upper Mississippi. THE MISSISSIPPI VALLEY. 19 nSY — New Madrid founded by Colonel G. Morgan, of New Jersey. 1788 — Dubuque obtains a grant of 140,000 acres, embracing the pres- ent Dubuque, lead mines, etc. " First boat-load of lead bought from the Indians and shipped to St. Louis by Col. Joseph Shaw, the pioneer of the lead trade. 1795 — First Ferry established at St. Louis, by Captain James Pig- gott. 1798 — Charles Dehault Delassus de Deluziere succeeds Zenon Tra- deau as Lieutenant-Governor of Upper Louisiana. 1803 — Louisiana ceded to the United States. 1804 — March 26, "Territory of Orleans" organized; residue of coun- try called "Territory of Louisiana." " Lewis and Clark set out upon their Western Exploring Expe- dition. 1808 — September 5, Major George C. Sibley established Fort Osage Government Factory on the Missouri. " July, the " Missouri Gazette," first newspaper west of the Mississippi established at St. Louis by Joseph Charless. 1809 — Governor M. Lewis committed suicide. 1811 — December 11, Earthquake at New Madrid. 1812 — June 4, Name changed to Territory of Missouri, and advanced to second grade of government. " December 7, First Session of Legislature convened at St. Louis. 1814 — December 5, Second Session of Legislature convened at St. Louis. " Bank of Missouri chartered. 1815 — Second weekly paper established at St. Louis. 1817 — The first Steamboat (General Pike) reached St. Louis. " John Scott, of St. Genevieve, elected first Delegate to Con- gress. 1818-19 — Missouri Compromise passed. 1819 — June 8, Exploring Expedition under Major Long left St. Louis for Mandan villages and the Yellowstone ; failed. 1820 — Constitutional Convention at St. Louis. 1821 — Admission of Missouri into the Union. 1833 — Trouble with the Mormons in Jackson County. 1838 — State Capitol commenced. " Mormon war in Caldwell County. 1852 — November 20, First Locomotive west of Mississippi, on Pacific Railroad. 1859 — July, Introduction of Horse Railroads in St. Louis. GENERAL VIEW OF MISSOURI. " Missouri, one of the largest of the United States, and the first formed wholly west of the Mississippi River, is bounded on the north by Iowa, (from which it is separated for about 30 miles on the north- east by the Des Moines River,) and on the east by the Mississippi River, which divides it from Illinois, Kentucky, and Tennessee ; on the south by Arkansas, and on the west by Indian, Kansas, and 'Ne- braska, Territories ; from the latter two of which it is partly sepa- rated by the Missouri River. This State lies (with the exception of a small projection between the St. Fran9ois and the Mississippi Rivers, which extends to 36°,) between 36° 30' and 40° 36' N". lat, and between 89° 10' and 96° W. Ion., being about 285 miles in its greatest length from E. to W., and 280 in width from N. to S., including an area of 67,380 square miles, or 43,123,200 acres, only 2,938,425 of which were improved in 1850." — LippincoWs Gazetteer of the World. PHYSICAL FEATURES. In our description of the State at large we will arrange it in four distinct divisions — the Western, the Eastern, and the Northern — and afterwards describe the Southern or the " Swamp Region of South- east Missouri;" and to give the reader a more clear and well-defined idea of its topography, we insert the following interesting extract from an article in the Western Journal, vol. ii. p. 292, from the pen of W. R. Singleton, Esq., Civil Engineer. He says: — "I shall begin at the mouth of the Lamine River, in Cooper County, and, drawing a line due south to its intersection of the south boundary line, where White River leaves the State, shall establish this as the ^ datum line,'' dividing the eastern from the western part of Missouri; from the fact that the two sections differ in their geo- graphical, geological, and topographical features. To a superficial observer, scarcely any difference would appear upon the map of the State ; but the topographer must, at the first glance, detect a marked and striking one. (20) GENERAL VIEW OF MISSOURI. 21 "The Main Ridges first claim our attention. That ridge which, leaving the eastern branch of the Sierra Madre at Long's Peak, west of St. Train's Fort, in lat. 40° 20', Ion. 105° 45', runs south until it heads the South Fork of the Platte, becomes the main divide between the waters which flow north to the Nebraska and east into the Mis- souri, and those which flow into the Mississippi by the Arkansas. It passes a few miles north of Bent's Fort, and from thence bears due east to the head of Little Arkansas, separates it from Smoky Hill Fork of Kansas, and passing north of Council Grove, a few miles east of which it divides itself into two branches ; the northern one passing into the State of Missouri between the head waters of the Osage and the small streams which empty directly into the Missouri. "This ridge continues until it reaches the head waters of the River Lamine, and then again divides; its main branch passing south of all the branches of the Lamine, is the divide between that stream and the waters of the Osage ; and after running toward the Valley of the Missouri, there loses itself between the mouths of the Lamine and the Osage Rivers — changing its character topographically, from the former to the latter, so materially, that that part near the Osage appears to be a diflTerent ridge altogether. Those who have noticed the slopes of the hills at the mouth of the Lamine would scarcely identify them as belonging to the same ridge with the bluffs just above the Osage. "The southern branch of the principal ridge, passing between the heads of the Osage on the east, and the streams which empty into the Arkansas, retains its character, and passing into the State of Missouri, in Jasper County, 110 miles south of the mouth of the Kansas, becomes upon the maps the Ozark range; which name is assumed to distinguish it from other ridges in that section. Possess- ing no feature whatever to characterize it as a mountain chain — for in every essential it is different from a mountain — this ridge, as it progresses to the east, becomes the most remarkable feature in the topography of the State. It is the dividing ridge between the waters of the Missouri on its northern slope, and those of the Mississippi on its southern, from its inception at Long's Peak to its terminus on the l)anks of the Mississippi. From Long's Peak to the datum line, this ridge is celebrated for its pampas or prairies, its long slopes, con- tinuous directions, and the great breadth and uniformity of its sum- rait level ; from the same line to the Mississippi River, it is equally remarkable for the reverse of these features; and hence we have in this view divided the southern half of the State into two topograph- ical departments. And while, in many particulars, the escarpment 22 GENERAL VIEW OF MISSOURI. of the ridges on the western division shows a similarity to those in the eastern, yet in all the essential qualities they differ very materi- ally. This ridge, as it approaches the heads of the Gasconade and Current Rivers, retakes the character it had abandoned at Long's Peak, and retains it throughout the eastern section; crosses the Mis- sissippi river at Grand Tower; is cut through by that river, also by the Big Muddy in Illinois; passes on to the Ohio River at Golconda; is again severed by the Ohio, and, passing through Kentucky, merges itself into the Cumberland Mountains between the heads of the Ken- tucky River and Big Sandy on the north, and the Cumberland River on the south. "We have thus traced a connection between the eastern branch of the Rocky Mountains at Long's Peak and the Cumberland Mount- ains in Kentucky, only broken by the Mississippi, Big Muddy, and Ohio Rivers, showing throughout its entire length certain geological features, and at its eastern end exhibiting topographical similarities to its western. This ridge is at an elevation much above all the other ridges in the valley of the Mississippi, and from this circum- stance I have formed a theory to account for the prairies to the north of it, but which I shall omit from this article. " From the west boundary line to the datum line, the two main branches of the principal ridge (which I shall now denominate, for the sake of distinction, the 'liamine Ridge' and the 'Ozark,') have the same characteristic features, which are great width and regularity of summit, general uniformity as to grades, and the very gradual descent to the valleys of the streams which intersect their slopes on every side — to the eye of the engineer presenting a delightful pros- pect in their pecu-liar adaptation for railroads, plank roads, etc. "Topography of Eastern and Western Missouri compared. — Re- ferring again to the map, we discover that east of the datum line, the main streams running northwardly into the Missouri, from the dividing ridge, pass much nearer to one another, and although gener- ally parallel in their course, yet in their meanders approach each other very frequently. Again, the branches of one stream will head within two or three miles of another main stream — as, for example, I refer to the ridge between the Gasconade and Osage. Many small streams of both rivers head past each other within a very short dis- tance of the other main stream. This is the peculiar feature of the topography east of the datum line. The ridges branching off from the main ridge, between two unimportant branches, frequently are found to be higher and more irregular in their grade at the summit than the principal one; indeed, from a personal and instrumental GENERAL VIEW OP MISSOURI. 23 examination, it has been pronounced a more remarkable country than any within the States. Hence, in my examination of its geo- logical features, when compared with those of the Sierra Madre, I unhesitatingly pronounce it to have been subjected to the same vol- canic influences, although in a milder form. The characteristic rocks are identical with those of Long's Peak, and many other points of the Sierra Madre.* The main dividing ridge, before mentioned, east of the datum line, becomes broken, irregular, and mountainous ; as it approaches the head of the Piney, Maramec, Indian Creek, and Big Rivers, on the north, and Eleven Points, Current, Black, and St. Francois on the south, it becomes more and more broken, irregular, and ill defined; and as it approaches the seat of volcanic action, near the Iron Mountain and Pilot Knob, (those most wonderful of all natural objects,) the ridge proper loses itself in a strange anomaly — a valley. Yes, a very valley on one of the highest ridges in the State ! The mountains which form this valley rise up from the sum- mit of this ridge, mostly of metalliferous formations, generally covered with a mixed growth of timber. The autumn scenery of the West is celebrated in song and on canvas; but I am satisfied," continues Mr. Singleton, "neither harp, pen, or pencil could portray one-tenth of the beauties of that one glance, as I surmounted the ridge, from the summit of which, by one ' coup-d'oeil,'' my soul drank in all the beau- ties of the Bellevue Valley, f As I have already remarked, this ridg-e continues its course unbroken to the Mississippi River, at the Grand Tower; but previous to which it branches in several directions: 1st. Northwardly, toward the Maramec, forming the divide between the Big River of the Maramec and the various short and rapid streams that run into the Mississippi, which I shall term the Maramec ridge. 2d. Southwardly toward the sunken district in Scott and New Madrid Counties, east of the St. Francois, called the St. Francis ridge, and gradually loses itself in the valley of that stream, in the sunken region, and the Mississippi bottom. " The first branch, or Maramec ridge, possesses all the features of the main ridge — more broken and irregular as it approaches, and modifying these traits as it recedes from the parent trunk, until at the Maramec it is similar to the bluffs on the Upper Missouri River, which * Since the return from the Rocky Mountain gold regions, to Southeast Mis- souri, of persons who had noticed tlie similarity in the geological features of the two sections, explorations have been made which seem to indicate that there are very rich and extensive mines of gold in Southeast Missouri. (See Iron and Madison County.) f See view of Pilot Knob, also view of Ironton from the summit of Pilot Knob. 24 GENERAL VIEW OF MISSOURI. are the breaks of the first main branch, or Lamine ridge, east of Council Grove. In this ridge, and the branches from it, are our most vahiable lead mines, copper mines, and stone quarries. "The southern slope of the main or Ozark ridge from the datum line, to the geologist becomes strikingly interesting as he approaches its eastern terminus. First, are the points running immediately down to White River, in all of which, near the main ridge, are evidences of coal; as he approaches the Eleven Points, the mineral resources be- come more interesting, until having reached the waters of the Cur- rent River, he is involved among intermediate hills, knobs, and mount- ains of metallic deposits of iron, lead, copper, gold, silver, zinc, cobalt, and many other rare metals ; while porphyritic and granitic formations lead him to imagine himself at once transported to the ' Stony Mountains,' or the 'Nevada' of California itself. The topog- rapher can only look on with wonder and amazement. Where shall he begin his sketch ? Where place his main divide ? Echo answers, 'Where!' With 'confusion worse confounded,' 'rocks on rocks piled mountains high,' and a dozen other poetic sentences which I might quote, to describe faintly what in reality exists, all whirling through my brain: even to contemplate such a general 'crash of worlds,' my good friend, the geologist, is quietly seated, hammer in hand, pound- ing away, with his specimens around him, oblivious of the world 1 Can I describe a banquet-room after a drunken revel? The surgeon may heal the broken heads and noses, and the cabinet workman the chairs and tables ; but I have naught to do there — the Earth and her sisters have had a glorious spree, and I leave those most interested to make the best of it.* The topographer has no business there — ' he cannot possibly describe it. So let us hasten to another equally interesting feature of a different nature — the country of the St. Fran9ois. While the same convulsions of nature were going on, and the country near the Iron Mountain, and southwest of it, was ele- vated, that near the lower St. Fran9ois was depressed. We have no reason to doubt that from the last bluff on the west side, below the mouth of the Ohio to the mouth of White River, the general level of the country on the river was the same as above that point ; but by the great earthquake which raised the one, the other was sunken, and is now as irregular in its lakes, rivers, and creeks, as the former is in its ridges and streams." * Of course, the writer does not refer to the earthquakes of 1811-'12, which, though they changed the surface of this section very materially, produced little or no change in any other portion of the State. GENERAL VIEW OF MISSOURI. 25 In another portion of this work, (St. Louis County,) the idea is advanced, that at one time the level of the Mississippi River, above the main ridge, was probably 200 feet higher than at the present time, and that there were then Falls in the Mississippi, at the Grand Tower, probably as extensive as those of Niagara. We submit it to geologists, whether the present appearance of the rocks at Grand Tower, where this ridge has been cut through, and the fact that the great coal basin, as well as the prairies of Illinois, Missouri, and Iowa lie north of this great natural barrier, do not justify the conclusion that such has been the case, and that the great coal basin and the prairies were formed during the period when that portion of the Mis- •sissippi valley must have been a vast body of water ! "The eastern section of the State is broken and irregular in all its ridges — its streams tortuous, rapid, and of sudden descent ; drain- ing a country rocky and precipitous, where its escarpments approach the valleys ; the streams excavated to a great depth below the sum- mit of the ridges, and rising by a gentle slope to within a short dis- tance of the ridge, then by a rapid ascent gaining its summit. So universally is this the case," says Mr. Singleton, "that in all my sur- veys for railroads, a tunnel with very heavy ascending and descend- ing grades was necessary to effect the transit from the head of the valley of one stream to another. "The western section is generally regular and uniform, both in its vertical and horizontal sections ; the streams, descending from the summit ridges by gentle slopes to the main valleys, are almost imper- ceptible in their descent ; the ridges are wide, continuously direct, and uniform in grade, mostly covered with prairies, and peculiarly adapted to the construction of railroads." In speaking of the geography of Missouri, Professor Schoolcraft says : " It possesses some of the most prominent geographical features of the western country, and from the meeting of such mighty streams on its confines, and its relation to all the country situated north and west of it, must become the key to all the commerce of those regions, and is destined to have a commanding influence on the surrounding States, and on the political character and mutations of that country. The country west of the Mississippi differs in some respects from any other section of the western country, and affords a variety in its physical aspect which is nowhere else to be met with. A great proportion of the lands in this territory are of the richest kind, producing corn, wheat, rye, oats, hemp, flax, and tobacco in great abundance, and in great perfection. The lands bordering on the Missouri River, as far as the territory extends, (in 1819,) are rich beyond comparison. 26 GENERAL VIEW OF MISSOURI. * * * " The traveler in the interior is often surprised to be- hold, at one view, cliffs and prairies, bottoms and barrens, naked hills, heavy forests, rocks, streams, and plains, all succeeding each other with rapidity, and mingled with the most pleasing harmony. I have contemplated such scenes, while standing upon some lofty bluff in the wilderness of Missouri, with unmixed delight ; while the deer, elk, and buffalo were grazing quietly on the plains below." "Although there is much high land in this territory, there is perhaps none which, strictly speaking, is entitled to the appellation of a moun- tain. A ridge of high land, called the Ozark chain, commencing on the banks of the Maramec near the Fourche a Courtois, extends in a southwestern direction to the banks of White River in Arkansas Territory, a distance of about 400 miles, and occasionally rises into peaks of mountain height. This ridge divides the waters of the Mis- souri from those of the Mississippi. The body of red granite found on the head of the St. rran9ois, lies in mountain masses, and forms, in connection with the accompanying rocks, some of the most rude and terrific scenery, full of interest in a mineralogical as well as a geological point of view." The Granite Mountain here referred to is north of the center of township 34, range 3 east, and about 2 miles due west from Middle- brook on the Iron Mountain Railroad, and about 5 miles southwest from Pilot Knob. " The region of the Ozark range of mountain-development is one of singular features, and no small attractions. It exhibits a vast and elevated tract of horizontal and sedimentary strata, extending for hundreds of miles north and south. This range is broken up into high cliffs, often wonderful to behold, which form the inclosing walls of river valleys. The Arkansas itself forces its way through about the center of the range. The Washita marks its southern boundary. The St. Fran9ois and Maramec, at the mouth of the former of which De Soto landed, constitute its northern limits. The junction of the Missouri with the Mississippi may be said to be its extreme northern development. The Missouri, from the influx of the Osage, is pushed northward by the Ozark range. It rests, upon the south, upon the primitive granites, slates, and quartz rock of Washita. The cele- brated Hot Springs issue from it. The long-noted mines of Mis- souri, which once set opinion in France in a blaze, extend from its northeastern flanks. The primitive sienites and hornblende rocks of the sources of the St. Francois and Grand Rivers support it. The Unica or White River, the Strawberry, Spring River, Current, and Black Rivers descend from it and join the Mississippi. The Great GENERAL VIEW OF MISSOURI. 27 and Little Osage, and Gasconade, flow into the Missouri. The great plains and sand desert, which stretch at the eastern foot of the Rocky - Mountains, lie west of it. It is not less than 200 miles in breadth. No part of the center regions of the Mississippi valley exhibits such a variety in its geological constituents, or such a striking mineralog- ical development. Its bodies of the ore of iron called iron-glace are unparalleled. These are particularly developed in the locality called Iron Mountain, at the sources of the St. Fran9ois. Its ores of lead, zinc, antimony, and manganese are remarkable. Its limestones abound in caves yielding nitre. Salt and gypsum are found in the plains, on its western borders. Its large blocks of quartz rocks, which are found north of the Arkansas River, particularly scattered over the formations crossing the Little Red, Buffalo, and White Uivers, about the Buffalo shoals, furnish indications of the diluvial gold deposit, which would justify future examinations." — School- c raffs Adventures in the Ozark Mountains, p. 113. Notwithstanding that the Ozark range presents a rough, rocky, con- fused appearance in some portions, and that its perpendicular walls here and there attain an elevation of from 100 to 400 feet, overhang- ing the streams and valleys below, there are other portions of the ridge, especially in the western part of the State, where the slopes on either side are so gradual, and the table-lands upon its summit so extensive, that the traveler would pass entirely over it without any knowledge of this being the Ozark ridge, except that the elevation attained everywhere presents an extensive view of the surrounding country. And here we would correct some erroneous impressions in regard to Missouri, and show their origin. Upon some of the first maps of the State, the "Ozark Mountains," have a prominence that would be no disgrace to the Alleghanies, and some map publishers of the present day still copy the information from these old editions, errors and all. The following article appeared in the St. Louis Enquirer, (Thomas H. Benton, editor,) December 1, 1819, (in reply to an article from the National Intelligencer, in regard to the formation of the proposed State of Missouri.) The editor says: "After you get forty or fifty miles from the Mississippi, the arid plains set in and the country is uninhabitable, except upon the borders of the rivers and creeks." Again he says: "Take up Mellish's map — look for St. Genevieve — carry your eyes west to Mine il Breton, and you are upon the con- fines of a desert; six miles farther, the inhabitable land gives out, and the naked and arid plains set in." Speaking of the country north of the Missouri, the same writer says: "The Grand Prairie, 28 GENEKAL VIEW OF MISSOURI. a plain without wood or water, which extends to the northwest farther than hunters or travelers have ever yet gone, comes down to within a few miles of the town of St. Charles, and so completely occupies the fork of the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers, that the woodland for 300 miles up each only forms a skirt from five to twenty- five miles wide, and above that distance the prairie actually reaches the borders of the rivers in many places." Such was the opinion held in 1819. Let us see what Professor G. C. Swallow says of these same portions, after a careful examination, forty years later. The southwestern branch of the Pacific Railroad traverses the "naked, arid, and uninhabitable " country above spoken of. In his lengthy and able report upon the character of the lands of this company, the State Geologist says of the soil : "Almost every acre of the alluvial bottoms throughout this entire region has a rich, durable soil, which is usually well adapted to the culture of corn, wheat, tobacco, oats, and the grasses ; some would yield good hemp. Where the silicious marls of the bluff are well developed, the upland soils are rich, fertile, and durable. This variety of soil prevails in all the best upland on the line of the road, particularly in the eastern and western extremities. In Oliver's prairie, Pool's prairie, and Sarcoxie prairie, in Newton ; Grand and Kickapoo prairies in Green ; Pleasant prairie in Webster ; Dimond prairie in Jasper ; and Ozark prairie in Lawrence, the soil is excellent. It possesses the same good qualities in some of the timbered portions of all the counties above named. There is a soil, somewhat inferior to the preceding, which covers large areas in the region under consideration. It also rests upon the marls of the blufi", where that formation is somewhat clayey, and where it has been injured by washing. This variety is found on the ridges and undulating portions of the country, where the white, post, and black oaks, and summer grapes abound, and white hickory, dwarf sumac, and ha'zle are less prevalent. This same soil also occupies the prairies, which are somewhat inferior to those mentioned above. It is also true, contrary to the opinions of some, that the central counties on the line of this road have large areas of most excellent land." Again he says: "The time is not far distant when the poor Jiint ridges and terraced slopes of Southern Missouri will be more valuable for vineyards than the best lands of the State for the other departments of agriculture." Hence the reader has reliable information respecting the soils of the southern portion of the State. What is said of "the plain with- out wood or water, which extends farther than hunters or travelers GENERAL VIEW OF MISSOURI. 29 had ever gone" in 1819? The Hannibal and St. Joseph Raih'oad passes through very nearly the center of the northern half of the State. In a letter from the State Geologist, giving his opinion of the lands along the line of this road, he says : "By far the larger part of it is a high, rolling country, and about equally divided into prairie and timber ; all well vs^atered with numerous springs and streams. A small portion of the country is broken into ridges and knobs; and the larger streams are bordered by rich alluvial bottoms. Nearly all the soil of this region is based upon the fine silicious marl of the bluff formation. As this fact would indicate, they possess all the good qualities of the very best Western soils. Those in the valleys of the streams are not inferior in fertility to the very best alluvial soils; but those upon the ridges and knobs are of a lighter char- acter, and much inferior for the ordinary uses of the farmer. It is, however, very probable that these soils will be more valuable for the cultivation of the grape, than even our richest soils for the ordinary purposes of agriculture ; for the grape will succeed on the poorer ridges, when the soil has the proper composition. Thus it will be seen, that the lands of your company are located in one of the richest and most desirable regions of the West. The soil is scarcely sur- passed in any region of equal extent, and yet the country is high, undulating, well watered, and salubrious. It is so divided into timber and jDrairie, as will render the opening of farms most convenient and profitable. The prairie is ready for the plow, and the best of tim- ber at hand for buildings and fences. But the vast coal-beds, be- neath the soil, give these lands a value far above all ordinary prices. According to Major Hawn's surveys, a large portion of these lands contain at least fine workable beds of good coal. These beds will contain an aggregate thickness of fifteen feet, which will yield not less than 20,000 tons per acre. The coal alone, at only one cent per ton, is worth $200 per acre. Good limestone, suitable for all build- ing purposes, is abundant along the line of the road. Clays, of excellent quality for common and fine brick and pottery, are found in large quantities. The numerous streams which pass through this region afford a large amount of water-power, and many good sites for mills and factories." Northern Missouri. — From the facts given in the above extracts, as well as the information contained in the descriptions of the several counties, the reader will perceive that the portion of the State north of the Missouri River exhibits a desirable medium between a mount- ainous and a level country — a bleak prairie and a densely-timbered region. It is less broken and hilly than most of the Eastern and 30 GENERAL VIEW OF MISSOURI. Middle Stcates, or the southern portion of this State, and less level or flat than portions of Illinois and many of the Southern States. As will be seen by reference to the map, this section is well watered, the principal streams running from the north to the south, and many of them present good facilities for water-power, (which, however, are less numerous than upon the streams in the southern part of the State.) The ridges or divides between the streams are generally suf- ficiently elevated to afford natural roads of the most perfect char- acter, passable with heavy loads during all seasons. The "Elk Knobs," in Macon County, are worthy of mention, and are fully described in the chapter devoted to "Natural Curiosities," where will also be found a description of the "Mamelles," the " Cedar Pyramid," and the "Rocky Cliff," in St. Charles County. The Submerged Lands of Missouri.* — The portion of the State of Missouri that is inundated, comprises the counties of Cape Girardeau, Scott, Mississippi, Wayne, Stoddard, Butler, New Madrid, Dunklin, and Pemiscot, embracing, according to the returns made to the Surveyor-General's office (including all the swamp lands in the Jackson land district) 1,856,120 acres. "A portion of each of the above counties is covered with water, and possess an alluvial soil; the lands are low and marshy, interspersed by streams, rivers, lakes, swamps, bayous, bogs, and marshes ; although a part of the swamps is not submerged by water the whole year, but the water remaining stagnant on these low and marshy lands during the hot summer, become very impure and putrid. The vegetation being very rank and abundant on this rich and marshy soil, mixes with the putrid waters, and when decomposed fills and renders the atmosphere im- pure and unhealthy, which adds greatly to disease ; and as the waters are dried up from these swamps, there is a sediment, stench, and poison left on them that cause disease and death, not only to those that live on their borders, but likewise to the inhabitants that live in the vicinity. A great portion of these swamps is not susceptible for the habitation of man, except a numberless group of islands inter- spersed, which are occupied during certain seasons of the year by hunters and trappers. It is a remarkable fact, that there is a chain of low, level, and marshy lands, commencing at the City of Cape * In addition to our personal knowledge of this region, we have compiled many of the facts and estimates, made by actual surveys, from the ablefreports of F. A. RoziER, Esq., Chairman of the Southwestern Convention, held at Memphis ; also from the concise reports of Messrs. O'Sullivan and Morrell, Engineers of the Iron Mountain Railroad; and from data furnished W. S. Moseley, Esq., of New Madrid. GENERAL VIEW OF MISSOURI. 31 Girardeau, Missouri, and extending to the Gulf of Mexico ; and between these two points there is not a rock landing, except at the small town of Commerce, on the west side of the Mississippi ; there is, furthermore, only one ridge of high land from Commerce to be met with on the west side of said river, which is at Helena, Arkansas. From the City of Cape Girardeau, running into the State of Arkansas, there is a strip or tongue, 350 miles long, of beautiful and excellent lands, along the western margin of the Mississippi, which is well in- habited, having an average of ten miles wide, and is entirely cut off and stands isolated from the interior of Missouri and Arkansas, by the great swamps lying west of it, and deprives and cuts off all com- munication from the interior southern part of Missouri and northern part of Arkansas, for the distance above mentioned to the Missis- sippi River."* The lands west of these swamps are very fertile and rich — the timber unsurpassed in size and quality. "The earthquakes of 1811-'12 proved very injurious and dis- astrous to Southeast Missouri, and were felt far and wide. They changed tlie course of the streams and rivers, which occasioned the waters to spread in every direction; and made high land where it was low previous, and in elevated places sunk them, thus causing the rivers and streams to overflow a great extent of country. These earthquakes are still remembered by many of the oldest settlers; when the whole land was moved and waved like the waves of the sea, and the majestic oak bent his head to the ground like a reed, and the terrible fact that the waters of the mighty Mississippi (oppo- site the town of New Madrid) rolled up stream for ten miles, carry- ing on its bosom barks, keel-boats, and every species of craft, with a rapidity unknown, and causing destruction of property and life."f There are four large swamps that originate in Missouri, to wit : — The White Water or Little River swamps, the St. John's, the James, and the St. Fran9ois swamps. The following is from the report of Messrs. O'Sullivan and Morrell, before alluded to : — " The swamp lands of Southeast Missouri all lie southeast of a line drawn from just below Cape Girardeau, on the Mississippi River, to a point on the Arkansas State line, in range 3 east. This line is not straight, however, but starts from the Mississippi River, on a course about 12 deg. south of west, and deflects gradually to the southward, * Since the above report was made, the Cairo and Fulton Railroad has been constructed, and is now in operation some twenty-five miles west from (he Mis- sissippi, passing through Charleston, Mississippi County. f See description of "New Madrid Earthquakes" in another chapter. 32 GENERAL VIEW OF MISSOURI. until it crosses the line between ranges 5 and 6 east, making a curve in this distance with a versed sine of about 9^ miles, thence to the Arkansas line, in range 3 east, on a general course of south 50 deg. west. This line is the termination of the high, broken ridges that spur out southwardly from the Ozark range, and form a rough, broken country for some seventy miles, until they are cut off abruptly at this line. • " The swamp lands may be divided into three distinct divisions. The west swamp or Black River division ; the middle swamp or Cas- tor River division ; and the overflowed lands bordering on the Missis- sippi River, above New Madrid, may be called the Mississippi division. The Black River and Castor divisions are divided by a high, broken ridge. This ridge commences on the east side of the St. Francois River, opposite the Chalk blufi", (the termination of the high, broken ridge known as Croly's ridge,) and runs northeasterly in the same general direction of Croly's ridge, to a point about three miles east of the town of Bloomfield ; thence bears northwesterly and terminates at Mingo swamp. " This ridge is very broken — the crest of it being a succession of undulations, and the east slope of it is very abrupt, as shown on the profiles ; it is of the same character as the north end of Croly's ridge, and, from the appearance at Chalk bluff, may at some day have formed part of the same ridge — the St. rran9ois having cut a channel through it since. It will be seen that this is an isolated ridge, surrounded by overflowed lands. " The Castor and Mississippi divisions are divided by the New Madrid and Benton ridges, commencing at New Madrid and extend- ing north about thirty miles ; in this distance the ridge averages about three miles wide, and is nearly level, and generally about twenty-five feet above overflow ; thence, after crossing a slough which connects the Castor and Mississippi divisions, the Benton ridge sets in, which is a high, broken one, extending to the Mississippi River at Commerce, and thence continuing some eight miles up the river, and there terminating on the southern border of the Mississippi inlet. " As the slough cutting this ridge, south of Benton, can be diked at a small expense, it is of but little consequence ; and, in speaking of the swamps, I will consider the ridge unbroken by any water- course from New Madrid to the Mississippi, at the southern border of the Cape Girardeau inlet. " The Black River and Castor divisions are overflowed through the GENERAL VIEAV OF MISSOURI. 66 inlet mentioned from the Mississippi, below Cape Gii-arrlonn. This inlet is at the narrowest point about three miles wide, (averages five miles,) and the water from the Mississippi River, at the time of the flood in 1844, ran through it to a depth of from four to six feet — say- five feet for the whole width. This inlet bears southeast twelve miles to the Castor division, when the water, in time of high floods, spreads out to a width of ten miles ; and this width of overflow in- creases as the water runs south, until at a point opposite New Madrid it overflows a belt of some fifteen miles in width. " A portion of the Mississippi water also runs through Mingo swamp to the Black River division, and fills the channel of the river to the tops of the banks, and runs through the Blue Spring slough, the Caledonia slough, the Monorkene slough, and other smaller ones to Black River, which it fills to its banks, and at low places runs over the west bank, and submerges the country westward to Cane Creek and a portion west of this creek to little Black River. Farther south, below 'Ash Hills,' it also breaks over the banks of the St. Fran9ois, and runs over the flat surface of the country west of that river, sub- merging it from one to four feet in depth, and is received in a lake at the Arkansas line, about six miles west of Chalk Bluffs. In this lake heads Cache River, which runs into Black River, about 125 miles south of the State line. " Another source of overflow of the swamp lands is from the drain- age, during heavy rains, of the country to the north, being the southern slope of the Ozark range. " The southern slope of the Ozark divide is very abrupt, falling off TOO and 1200 feet in a distance of forty and seventy miles. These swamplands receive the drainage of 3518 square miles of this slope, through the channels of Black River, St. Fran9ois, Castor, and White Rivers, and falling, as these rivers do, at an average of twenty feet per mile, from their sources to the flats, where the fall southward is only one and a half feet per mile, the channels become choked, and hence the overflow. "By keeping off all overflow, there is but a very small portion of these lands that will be unfit for cultivation, and those of first quality. "A stranger in traveling over this flat country, after a season of no unusual flood, would be surprised that such a body of rich land, in such close proximity to the river, should be yet a wilderness. The bottom, at such a time, is as dry as the high ridges north, except the cypress sloughs which tread their way at various places, the tall tim- bers on these sloughs looking in the distance like some high ridge stretching across the country. 3 34 GENERAL VIEW OF MISSOURI. " These sloughs vary in width from two hundred to eight hundred feet, and are from five to ten feet below the general plane of country, and will at some future day be reclaimed after the timber shall have found a market. This timber, after the railroads are constructed, will become valuable, and be a large source of wealth to the country. The cypress-trees are of an enormous size, and run up perfectly straight to a height of from sixty to eighty feet without a limb ; and the forest being void of undergrowth presents a grand spectacle, looking like a thousand symmetrical columns supporting some immense vault. " The timber of the drier lands is superior to that of the uplands to the north. White oak of the largest size is here found, the trunks maintaining a nearly uniform girth to a great height. The other kinds of oak, hickory, and various other timbers, grow in abundance. " On the banks of Cane Creek, Black River, St. Francois River, Castor River, and Little River is a thick growth of cane, but this does not reach to a great height, being kept down by the cattle that range over the whole country and subsist entirely on it during the winter. " When we consider the excellent quality of the swamp lands, the productiveness of which is not surpassed by any of the Illinois lands, and the source of wealth to Southeast Missouri that might be devel- oped by settlers coming in, and, it might be added, the important bearing this would have on a railroad from St. Louis, it becomes an important question, can the swamp lands be drained ? and if so, what would be the cost, and whether the end to be accomplished would justify the means ? " In the Surveyor-General's office the area of overflowed lands in the Jackson District is found to be 1,856,120 acres. Assuming that about two-thirds of these lands would be available for cultivation, and of a quality that would be reclaimed by a judicious system of drainage, this would be equal to 1,237,412 acres, say 1,200,000 acres. These lands are now worth but little, except for the timber they bear, which at present may be considered inaccessible to market. Bring them to a condition, by a proper drainage, so as to invite a class of settlers who are looking for choice land, and they would bring, on an average, at very low figures, $2 50 per acre, equal to $3,000,000. "We now suggest an outline for a system of drainage, which con- siderable knowledge of the swamp lands, acquired by observation on the ground, and by consulting the U. S. notes in the office of the Sur- veyor-General, warrants as probably practicable. " First. We would shut out the water from the Mississippi through the Cape Girardeau inlet, which could be done eff'ectually by an embankment three miles long and averaging ten feet high. Then GENERAL VIEW OP MISSOURI. 35 for the Black River and Castor division there would be only the drain- ing from the south slope of the Ozark range, and the local drainage of the flats themselves. As the latter is a matter of much detail, and of no great importance in a general system, we will not notice it here further than to say that it can be readily accomplished through the numerous small sloughs that abound throughout the entire overflowed region. Then we have on these two divisions the overflow from the four rivers — Black, St. Francois, Castor, and White — to dispose of. " Black Eiver Division. — Assuming the Cape Girardeau inlet to be closed, the water that overflows this division of the swamp lands then comes in by Black and St. Francois Rivers. The former drains about 1130 square miles, and the distance by the stream from the head of the longest fork to the swamp lands is ninety-four miles, and a cross section of the river where it enters the swamp lands, at the highest known flood, is 3950 square feet. "The St. Fran9ois drains about 1250 square miles, and by the longest fork has a length to the swamp lands of 105 miles, and a cross section of water, at the highest known flood, of 9400 square feet, taken above the mouth of Mingo swamp. Mingo swamp, as before described, connects the Black River with the Castor division north of the Bloomfield ridge. This swamp is two miles wide, and the drainage from it to the St. Franyois, in time of low water, is through a channel which is twenty feet deep, below the plane of country where it enters the St. Fran9ois. "At a point below the old Indian ford, where the high grounds recede from the west bank of the river, the cross section of high water of the St. Francois is but 5100 square feet, and at a point about seventeen miles below, or eleven miles above Chalk Bluff, a cross section of the same is only 2330 square feet. Assuming the current to be of equal velocity at these different points, it will be seen that forty-five per cent, of the water that comes down the St. Fran- 9ois in local floods passes through Mingo swamp into the Castor division, and that thirty per cent, overflows its west bank in its pro- gress to Chalk Bluff, running over the country to Black and Cache Rivers, then down those streams, discharging into the Mississippi finally through White River, 180 miles below the Missouri line, while less than twenty-five per cent, finds its way down the St. Fran- 9ois and through the ridge at Chalk Bluft'. " The banks of the St. Fran9ois, at the edge of the swamp just below Indian ford, are twenty and twenty-five feet high above low water ; and at the point mentioned as eleven miles north of Chalk Bluff, where the other cross section is given, the banks are but ten feet high, and the channel too is narrower. 36 GENERAL VIEW OP MISSOURI. "At a point just below Mingo swamp, the end of the Bloomfield ridge is but two and a quarter miles from the St. Fran9ois, and the side of the bluff comes close to the river on the west side, the inter- vening bottom between the ridge and the river being but three feet below high-water mark. We would propose throwing up an embank- ment across this two miles of bottom to a height of about six feet, and throwing a low dam across the river sufficiently high to throw all the water through Mingo swamp into the Castor division, except so much as the banks will contain at the point indicated as near Chalk Bluff, after stopping some of the narrow gullies which the river has cut, through which the water escapes, and clearing the river of its rafts of drift. This could be done at a moderate expense, a mere trifle compared with the benefits to be derived in both Missouri and Arkansas. " The water that flows over the west bank of the St. Franyois in floods nearly all runs into Arkansas west of Croly's ridge, and, as before demonstrated, is equal to thirty per cent, of the drainage of 1250 square miles; during, however, only the time that the water is at its maximum height, which is the most important time, especially north of the Missouri line. Black Biver could then be easily kept within its banks, and the fine body of rich land west of it, embracing about five townships, would be fit for settlement. " Castor Division. — Having shut the Mississippi out by the em- bankment across Cape Girardeau inlet, we have only the draining of the Ozark slope to contend with through White, Castor, and St. Francois Rivers, the body of water from the latter being greatly increased by the improvement already suggested below Mingo swamp. Thirty per cent, of the whole volume of water at its maximum height in the St. Francois having been diverted by the proposed improve- ments, and as forty-five per cent, before flowed through Mingo swamp from the same river, this gives seventy-five per cent, of all the water in the St. Fran9ois, when at its extreme height, as passing through Mingo swamp into Castor division. " To compensate for diverting thirty per cent, of the St. Fran9ois into this division, we would propose throwing up a dike from the north end of the inlet dike to the point where White River enters the swamp, a distance of about twelve miles. It is presumed that this may be done at a moderate expense, making it near the ends of the ridges where the overflow is not so deep, and raising the bed of the stream by a dam across the old channel where the river enters the swamp. "White River drains 590 square miles of the Ozark slope, and the GENERAL VIEW OF MISSOURI. 37 distance to the head of the longest fork is forty-seven miles, it being about the same with Castor River, which drains 548 square miles, and to the head of the longest fork from the swamp is fifty-three miles. "It will be seen that the proposed improvement of diverting White River would carry more drainage off from the Castor division than the surplus portion from the St. Fran9ois brought in by the proposed change, even supposing that this surplus be brought in during all the stages of the water, which is not the case.* "The improvements suggested for the Castor division, then, are the shutting out entirely the Mississippi River and the White River, to compensate for thirty per cent, of the St. Francois during its highest stage let in through Mingo swamp ; and as it is fair to assume that a river heading among mountain ranges, like the St. Francois, with its longest fork only 105 miles in length, would remain at a maximum in flood but a few hours at once, and as the White River drains more country than the Castor River, we think it might be safe to assume that four-tenths of the drainage is diverted by the proposed improvement, in addition to that most important of all suggestions for this and the Black^River divisions, the shutting out of the mighty volume that escapes from the Mississippi. "By the figures shown on the map, and by looking at tlie profile, it will be seen that the high-water mark of the Mississippi River at New Madrid is sixteen feet above the high water in the swamp, ten miles directly west of the same point. The high-water marks are presumed to be correct, having been shown at different points by peo- ple who professed to understand them, and the height of different places do not materially conflict. " The country below New Madrid we know nothing of from obser- vation. The fall of high-water mark from Cairo to New Madrid is twenty-nine feet by our levels, and the distance by map is sixty-two miles by the river, making the fall of the water average five and six- tenths inches per mile. Assuming that the fall is the same for some distance below New Madrid, then to fall sixteen feet, we go thirty- four miles by the river below New Madrid, which gives an elevation of high-water mark equal to the elevation spoken of west of New Madrid, and consequently the Mississippi River can have no outlet of importance in this distance, which we are informed is true, by those acquainted with the country ; and, in fact, we have been told that no * As will be seen, no account is taken of the greater velocity which rivers have near the surface of the water in floods. This would augment our estimate of the percentage that washes over the west bank of the St. Francois, as well as our estimate of the proportion that does now run into the Castor, and the sur- plus which would be thrown in by the construction of the proposed dam, etc. 38 GENERAL VIEW OF MISSOURI. outlet occurred on the west bank of the river from New Madrid to Memphis. " The country west of New Madrid is well known as having been sunk several feet by an earthquake in 1811. Where once was high, timbered land is now covered with standing and running water, being the discharges of Castor and White Rivers, which here form one stream which is called Little River. " The route to Memphis, as shown on the map of this division, runs mostly on land said to be above overflow. The first ten miles south of the point where it crosses the Bloomfield ridge, we know from observation on the ground, is some fifteen feet above overflow, and is there mostly a sandy prairie which is said to continue much the same to the Arkansas line. "Mississippi Division. — On this division the overflow from the Mis- sissippi River must be kept out by a system of levees, but the posi- tion of these must be determined by more extended surveys than those made by us with only a railroad route in view. Much of the ground is now above overflow. Long prairie and Matthew's prairie are both extensively settled, and contain some of the finest farms in Southeast Missouri. Approximated estimate of cost of carrying out the proposed system of drainage for Southeast Missouri. 47,000 yds. embankment, No. 1, below Mingo swamp, at 25 cents per yard $11,750 00 Dam 160 feet long, at say $20 3,200 00 Rock protections on sides 1,000 00 Stopping the gullies when St. Fran5ois breaks out at sundry points, say.... 10,000 00 $25,950 00 162,000 yards embankment, near Cape Girardeau, 3 miles long and 10 feet high 40,500 00 For changing White River, say 160,000 00 Leveeing divide between Castor and Mississippi divisions 5,000 00 Leveeing 50 miles of the Mississippi River, averaging $4000 per mile 200,000 00 $431,450 00 Engineering, contingencies, surveys, etc., etc 43,150 00 $474,600 00 " We would repeat here that the above remarks are only intended to give what information we had collected in progress of survey, and not as a matured plan. They may be useful in either confirming or suggesting other plans." OUTLINE HISTORY. " The man wlio is ignorant of the transactions of former times, is condemned to a perpetual state of childhood." — Cicero. The valley of the Mississippi was first discovered by Hernando De Soto, appointed by the Emperor Charles V. of Spain, as Governor of the Island of Cuba, and President of Florida. He explored the Lower Mississippi, as far north as the mouth of the Ai-kansas, in 1539, and passed up White River, crossed the Ozark ridge, and spent the winter of 1541-42 on the plains (or prairies) beyond — probably in the western part of this State. (See Yernon County.) He named the country "Florida." After describing the Ozark hills in Missouri, Schoolcraft says : "Through these Alpine ranges De Soto roved with his chivalrous and untiring army, making an outward and inwai-d expedition into regions which must have presented untoward hardships and dis- couragements to the march of troops. To add to these natural obstacles, he found himself opposed by fierce savage tribes, who rushed upon him from every glen and defile, and met him in the open grounds with the most savage energy. His own health finally sunk under these fatigues ; and it is certain that, after his death, his suc- cessor in the command, Moscoso, once more marched entirely through the southern Ozarks, and reached the Buffalo plains beyond them. Such energy and feats of daring had never before been displayed in North America; and the wonder is at its highest, after beholding the wild and rough mountains, cliffs, glens, and torrents, over which the actual marches must have laid. Some of the names of the Indian tribes encountered by him furnish conclusive evidence that the prin- cipal tribes of the country, although they have changed their par- ticular locations since the year 1542, still occupy the region. Thus, the Kapahas, who then lived on the Mississippi, above the St. Fran- cois, are identical with the Quappas, the Cayaswith the Kanzas, and the (^uipana with the Pawnees." In 1673, the Mississippi valley was further explored by Father Mahequette and M. Joliet, from New France, (Canada,) who entered the Mississippi River at the mouth of the Wisconsin, and continued down the stream to the mouth of the Arkansas River, (89) 40 OUTLINE nibTORY, which point they reached in 1673. Thus it will be seen that that portion of the Mississippi forming the eastern boundary of this State was discovered by the last-named French explorers, who were the first white men that had floated upon the Mississippi for a period of 130 years — or since the disastrous voyage of Louis de Moscoso, with the remains of De Soto's expedition, in the year 1543. Returning from the mouth of the Arkansas, they passed up the Illinois River, and discovered all that country in July, 1674. In 1680, Robert Cavalier de La Salle fitted out an exploring expedition, consisting of Father Louis Hennepin and M. Dugay, with six others, to advance to the head waters of the Mississippi. Hennepin went no farther north than Saint Anthony's Falls, which name he gave them in honor of his patron saint, St. Anthony, of Padua. Thence they descended the Mississippi to the mouth of the Arkansas, and from there returned to Green Bay.* In 1682, La Salle made a tour of exploration through the valley of the Mississippi, and to the "great river" he gave the name of St. Louis, and the country traversed by it Louisiana, both in honor of the King of France; and to the Missouri River he gave the name of Saint Philip. Continuing down the "St. Louis," on the 7th of' April, 1682, he planted the colors of France near the Gulf of Mexico, and formally and solemnly claimed the Territory for France, giving it the name of Louisiana ; he soon after returned to France, to make arrangements for colonizing Louisiana, which he had accomplished by July, 1684, when his fleet of four vessels left Rochelle, France; failing to recognize the mouth of the Mississippi, as they passed it, the fleet landed at the Bay of the Matagorda. His subsequent history is full of melancholy interest. The discovery of the Mississippi by the Canadian French gave to France a conventional claim to navigate the great river and its prin- cipal tributaries, and to occupy and settle in the country traversed by them. The further exploration of the Lower Mississippi was interrupted by the war between the Iroquois Indians and the British Colonies, against the Province of Canada, from 1689 to 1696. But the settle- ments formed in the Illinois country (east of the Mississippi) by Father La Salle were annually on the increase, by the accession of Canadian adventurers, who had heard of the fertile lands and the more temperate climate. Before the close of the seventeenth century " Old Kaskaskia" was known through not only all the Illinois country, * Monette. OUTLINE HISTORY. 41 (of which it was for several years the capital,) but throughout Canada ; and the Catholic Mission posts established by La Salle had grown into parishes, so great was the tide of emigration and so fair the fame of the country. Soon after the termination of the war above alluded to. Count de Frontenac, then Governor-General of New France, proceeded to occupy the valley of the Mississippi, and in 169*1 located colonies at several points, both north and south. Up to the beginning of the eighteenth century, settlements in New France were confined entirely to the eastern side of the Mississippi; but the reports made by a few wandering explorers, that both gold and silver were abundant in what is now Missouri and Arkansas, induced the French to turn their at- tention to the country to the west. Accordingly, early in the eight- eenth century, Count de Frontenac prepared an expedition to visit the mines of Upper Louisiana. A fort was erected and settlements commenced, but the prejudices of the savages were soon excited, and their demonstrations of hostility induced the French to abandon this part of the country without making any permanent settlements. The Missouri River next claimed their attention, and in ITOStliey ascended to the mouth of Kansas River, and met with kind and hos- pitable treatment from the Indians, whose kindness on this occasion soon obliterated from their minds the remembrance of the opposition offered by the savages on the Mississippi. The war in Europe at this time demanded all the resources of France, and required all the attention of her principal men, both in France and "New France ;" and unable to keep up the usual advances, the king had allowed the colony of Louisiana to become reduced almost to starvation ; and although unable to contribute either men or money to its support, the king was intent upon keeping from the hands of his enemies this country, which was believed to contain inex- haustible mines of gold and silver, which, when opened, would not only place the colony upon a permanent basis, but be sufficient to re- move the debt of France, which during the reign of Louis XIV. had increased to upwards of two thousand millions of livres. "Mutual friendship and confidence" had been established between the French and all the Western tribes of Indians ; and emigrants from the St. Lawrence continued to advance to the Illinois country, which was then settling up rapidly, and Old Kaskaskia had become the capital of the country, and the authorities during 1712 issued land titles for a "common field," and deeds and titles to aid the people in the pursuit of important public and private enterprise. In view of the prosperous present, and the promising future of the Illinois country, 42 OUTLINE HISTORY. (then looked upon as the "terrestrial paradise,") and the mines of precious ores believed to exist on either side of the great river, the king granted the exclusive privilege in all the trade and commerce of the province to Anthony Crozat, a wealthy and influential merchant of France, "who had prospered in opulence to the astonishment of all the world." His charter embraced sixteen years, from the 26th of September, IV 12. Louisiana, as then held by France, embraced the entire Mississippi valley, from the Alleghanies to the Rocky Mount- ains, and north to the lakes in Canada. At this time there were less than 380 Europeans in the lower half of the district described, yet Crozat entered upon his projects with an energy which exhibited his confidence in his gigantic and hazardous undertaking. Crozat adopted for the government of the country the laws, usages, and customs of Paris, which were the first laws of civilized society that were ever in existence between the Gulf of Mexico and the Falls of St. An- thony, and were principally copied from the Roman civil law. In 1712 M. de la Motte Cadillac was appointed royal governor of Louisiana by Louis XIV., and arrived in Louisiana in 1713. In order to enlist him in the commerce of the colony Crozat associated him as a partner in his operations. La Motte was a self-important, egotistical, proud man, whose elevation from obscurity in France to the position of "royal governor of Louisiana" rendered him almost unfit for the association of even his superiors. When he was ordered by the ministry to assist the agents of Crozat in establishing trading posts on the Wabash and Illinois, he at once got into bad humor, and had the hardihood to write back to the ministry: "I have seen Crozat's instructions to his agents. I thought they issued from a lunatic asylum, and there appeared to me to be no more sense in them than in the Apocalypse. What ! Is it expected that for any commercial or profitable purposes boats will ever be able to run up the Mississippi into the Wabash, the Missouri or the Red River? One might as well try to bite a slice off the moon ! Not only are those rivers as rapid as the Rhone, but in their crooked course they imitate to perfection a snake's undulations. Hence, for instance, on every turn of the Mississippi it would be necessary to wait for a change of wind, if wind could be had ; because this river is so lined up with thick woods that very little wind has access to its bed."* M. de la Motte was the first governor under the new grant, and arrived in the Illinois country (comprising Missouri) in 1713, and took possession of his government. Anticipating an astonishing * Louisiana, by Gayarre, p. 137. OUTLINE HISTORY. 43 profit from the mines, which they hourly expected to find, no atten- tion was given to agriculture except by a few individuals, and large investments were therefore necessary to purchase provisions, which, with the other expenses of the colony, greatly exceeded the profits of its trade; and, in 1717, after a trial of five years, having failed in all his plans, Crozat resigned his charter and returned to France. Soon after the relinquishment by Crozat, the colony of Louisiana was granted by a patent, containing similiar privileges and restric- tions, to the "Mississippi Company," or "Company of the West,'' with authority to monopolize all the trade and commerce of Louis- iana and New France, to declare and prosecute wars, appoint offi- cers, etc. This company was under the direction of the notorious John Law, and soon established a post in the Illinois country, where they built Fort Chartres, about sixty-five miles below the mouth of the Missouri, in 1720-21, which, at the time of its completion, was one of the strongest fortresses on the continent. Under this com- pany, Philippe Francis Renault, who had been appointed " Director- General of the mines of Louisiana," with two hundred miners and skillful assayers, arrived in the Illinois country in 1719, and the miners were soon dispatched in different directions to explore the country on both sides of the Mississippi. During the year 1719 and 1720, Sieur de Lochen, M. de la Motte, and a number of others engaged in exploring the country lying between the Missouri and the swamps east of the Ozark hills; and in 1719 the former commenced digging on the Maramec, where he raised several hundred pounds of lead, from which, after tedious experiments, he produced two drachms of silver, and left the lead as worthless. They were in search of gold and silver; hence lead had but slight value in their estimation. Those who have compiled the History of the Mississippi Valley make no mention of M. de la Motte after he was su(rceeded by M. de I'Espinay, as governor and chief commander of Louisiana; but we believe he was one of de Bienville's expedition when he discovered the mines in Madison County, which still perpetuate his name. Schoolcraft dates the discovery of these mines by him in 1720; but other circumstances go to prove that that section of country was explored, and lead ore found abundant, as early as 1718. The miners and assayers sent out by the " Company of the West" were required to carefully observe and report the presence of any rich ores which might be discovered in their explorations, and to mark the localities. These excursion parties were either headed by Renault or M. la Motte, and in one of their earliest excursions, la Motte discovered the lead mines which bear his name, near Fred- 44 OUTLINE HISTORY. ericktown, and soon afterward Renault discovered the mines north of Potosi, which are named in remembrance of him. Failing to find either gold or silver, Renault and his miners turned their attention to working the lead mines, which was continued till 1742, when he returned to France ; and from the number of ancient diggings and other indications, it is probable large amounts of ore were taken out and manufactured — principally shipped to France. In 1720 the Spanish determined to take the country from the con- trol of the French, in order to accomplish which they thought it necessary to destroy the nation of the Missouris, then situated on the Missouri River, and who were in alliance with the French, and espoused their interests. Their plan was to excite the Osages to war with the Missouris, and then take part in the contest. For this pur- pose an expedition was fitted out from Santa Fe for the Missouri in 1720. It was a moving caravan of the desert — armed men, horses, mules, families, women, priests, with herds of cattle and swine to serve for food on the route, and to serve for increase in the new colony. In their march they lost the proper route, the guides became bewildered, and led them to the Missouri tribes instead of the Osages. Unconscious of their mistake, as both tribes spoke the same language, they believed themselves among the Osages instead of their enemies, and without reserve disclosed their designs against the Missouris, and supplied them with arms and ammunition to aid in their ex- termination. The great chief, concealing his real thoughts and intentions, evinced the greatest joy, and promised, after they should have rested three days from their march, to join the expedition with them, and in the mean time the chief would assemble his warriors and hold a council with the old men of the tribe. Just before the dawn of the day upon which the company had arranged to march, the Missouris fell upon their treacherous enemies and dispatched them with indiscriminate slaughter, sparing only the priest, whose dress convinced them he was a man of peace rather than a warrior. They kept him some time as a prisoner ; but he finally made his escape, and was the only messenger to bear to the Spanish authorities the just return upon their own heads of the treachery they had intended to practice upon others.* To arrest any further attempt of the Spaniards to advance into Upper Louisiana, a French post was designed for the Missouri, and M. Burgmont was dispatched from Mobile to the Missouri River. He took possession of an island in the river, above the mouth of the * Monette's Hist. Miss. Valley, vol. 1. chap. vi. OUTLINE HISTORY. 45 Osage, upon which he built a fort, which he named "Fort Orleans." The war between the French and Spaniards continued, and the Indians who had been leagued in with the interests of the respective colonies (Louisiana and Florida) carried on their marauding excur- sions against the enemies of their respective friends. About the same time "Fort Chartres" was constructed on the Mississippi, under the instructions of the king, by M. Boisbriant, and a fort and trad- ing post for the company at the mouth of Blue Earth River, on the St. Peter's, erected by Lesueur, who was accompanied by a detach- ment of ninety men. On his arrival at the mouth of the Osage, Burgmont found the difterent tribes engaged in a sanguinary warfare, which prostrated all trade and rendered all intercourse extremely hazardous; hence his attention was at once turned toward bringing about a reconciliation, which he effected in 1724. In the mean time "Fort Orleans" had been completed and occupied; but soon after the declaration of peace between the contending tribes, "Fort Orleans" was attacked, totally destroyed, and all the French massacred.* Nor is it yet known by whom this bloody work was performed. During the following sixteen years, the Fi'ench seemed to be fated to disappointment and disaster. Their troubles with the Indians increased; the Bank of France under John Law, which promised so fairly, had proved worse than a bubble ; several of their expeditious had resulted in the loss of large numbers of valiant and learned men, valuable treasure and stock ; and the Directory, in view of the disas- ters they had experienced, determined to surrender the charter into the hands of the crown and retire from the American wilderness. The petition was readily granted, and by proclamation, dated April 10, 1732, the king declared the province of Louisiana free to all his subjects, with equal privileges as to trade and commerce, f From this time to 1762, when the whole territory west of the Mis- sissippi was ceded to Spain, no events transpired worthy of record in so brief a sketch as our limited space permits us to give. Up to 1751 there were but six settlements within a hundred miles of the present site of St. Louis, to wit: 1. Kaskaskia, situated upon the Kaskaskia River, upon a peninsula, five miles above the mouth of that stream, and two miles by land from the Mississippi. 2. Fort Chartres, twelve miles above Kaskaskia. 3. Prairie du Rochter, near Fort Chartres. 4. St. Philii), or Little Village, four miles above Fort Chartres. 5. Cahokia, near the mouth of Cahokia Creek, about * Monette. f Stoddard. 46 OUTLINE HISTORY. five miles below the center of the present City of St. Louis, 6. St. Grenevieve, upon Gabouri Creek, west of the Mississippi, and about one mile from its western shore. Kaskaskia was once the capital of the Illinois country, and in its palmy days contained about 3000 inhabitants ; but after the country passed under the dominion of the King of Spain the population decreased, and at the time St. Louis was founded, in 1764, contained but about 425 inhabitants. The territory known as Louisiana was ceded to Spain Novem- ber 3, 1762, but nothing was known of this cession by the inhabit- ants for nearly three years afterward ; hence the mistake made by La Clede, in February, 1764, in naming St. Louis in honor of Louis XV., whose subject he expected to remain for a number of years, when he was then really a subject of the King of Spain. The territory was not taken possession of by the Spanish until 1770. (See Early History of St. Louis, St. Charles, Howard, St. Gene- vieve, and Washington Counties.) In 1762 Louisiana was ceded to Spain by France, and taken pos- session of by the Spanish in 1770, In 1780 an expedition was fitted out by the British commandant at Michillimackinac, upon his own responsibility, in order to conquer the towns on the right bank of the Mississippi, in consequence of the part the King of Spain had taken in favor of the independence of the United States in the then late war. His expedition consisted of 140 regular British troops and Canadian Frenchmen, and 1400 Indian warriors. After reconnoiter- ing several days from the opposite shore, and by scouts lurking in ambush along the western bank of the river, they made the grand attack upon St. Louis, on the 6th of May, 1780, and were repulsed by Colonel Clark from Kaskaskia, who came to the relief of the St. Louisians, with a company of 500 men.* During the year (1762) the fii'st village was established upon the Missouri River, and named Village du Cole, now St. Charles. In 1787, New Madrid was laid out under the direction of General Mor- gan, from New Jersey, who had received a large grant of land. There had been a settlement of hunters and traders at this point for some time previous to his location here. By the treaty of St. Ildefonso, made in 1800, Spain retroceded Louisiana to France, by whom in 1803 it was ceded to the United States, and taken possession of by American authorities on the 20th of December, 1803. "The settlements upon the Upper Mississippi, including the post at New Madrid, (which was just settled in 1786 ?) Monettc. OUTLINE HISTORY. 47 had been attached to the government of Upper Louisiana ; and the census, as taken by order of the Lieutenant-Governor Delassus, at the close of the year 1199, presented the entire population at more than 6000 souls, including 880 slaves and 197 free persons of color."* This population was distributed as follows : St. Louis, 925 ; Caron- delet, 184; kSt. Charles, 815; St. Fernando, 216; Marias des Liards, 316; Maramec, 115; St. Andrew, 393; St. Genevieve, 949; New Bourbon, 560; Cape Girardeau, 521; New Madrid, 182; and Little Prairie, 49. Total, 6028. At different periods previous to 1811, a number of Delaware, Shawanese, and Cherokee Indians had built villages along the banks of the St. Francois and White Rivers, by a privilege granted them by the Spanish authorities, and up to 1812 they had conducted them- selves to the satisfaction of all the white settlers. About the same time a few Creeks, Choctaws, and Chicasaws located upon the same waters, and were considered as outlaws by their respective nations, and their depredations among the whites were serious and frequent. The name of Louisiana Territory was changed to that of "Mis- souri Territory," which was then advanced to the second grade of government, by an act of Congress, approved June 4, 1812. The first Council consisted of nine members, and the House of thirteen. On the 1st of October, 1816, Governor Howard, by proclamation, reorganized the "districts," as heretofore called, into counties: St. Charles, St. Louis, St. Genevieve, Cape Girardeau, and New Madrid. The district of Arkansas formed a portion of New Madrid County. The House commenced their first session on the 1th of December, 1812. The first representatives were: St. Charles — John Pitman and Robert Spencer; St. Louis — David Music, Bernard G. Farrar, William C. Carr, and Richard Caulk; St. Genevieve — Geo. Bullett, Richard S. Thomas, and Isaac McGready ; Gape Girardeau — Geo. F. Bollinger and Stephen Byrd ; New Madrid — John Shrader and Samuel Phillips. William C. Carr was elected Speaker, and Andrew Scott, Clerk. The members of the first Council were : Jas. Flaugherty and Ben- jamin Emmons, of St. Charles; Auguste Chouteau, Sr., and Samuel Hammond, of St. Louis; John Scott and James Maxwell, of St. Genevieve; William Neely and Geo. Cavener, of Cape Girardeau, and Joseph Hunter, of New Madrid Counties. In 1818, the people of the territory petitioned Congress for author- ity to form a State government. A bill was accordingly introduced * Monette, vol. ii. 48 OUTLINE HISTORY. during the session of 1818-19, and contained, araona: other provisions, that of prohibiting slavery or involuntary servitude. It passed the House, but was rejected in the Senate. The bill was again brought up the ensuing session, and after an animated discussion which lasted several weeks, a compromise was entered into by the advocates and opposers of the "slavery restriction." The terms adopted were that slavery should be tolerated in Missouri, but in no other part of Louisiana as ceded by France to the United States, north of 36° 30' north latitude. Accordingly the people of Missouri Territory were authorized to form a constitution, under which, when approved by Congress, Missouri should be admitted into the Union, on an equal footing with the original States. The election for members of the Convention was held on the first Monday in May, 1820, and resulted in the choice of the following persons : — Cape Girardeau. — Stephen Byrd, Richard S. Thomas, James Evans, Alexander Buckner, and Joseph McFerron. Cooper. — Robert P. Clark, Robert Wallace, and William Lillard. Franklin. — John Gr. Heath. Howard. — Nicholas S. Buckhart, Duff Green, John Ray, Jonathan S. Findlay, and Benjamin H. Reeves. Jefferson. — Samuel Hammond. Lincoln. — Malcolm Henry. Montgomery. — Jonathan Rumsey and James Talbott. Madison. — Nathaniel Cook. New Madrid. — Robert D. Dawson, Chris. C. Houts. Pike. — Stephen Cleaver. St. Charles. — Hiram H. Baber, Nathan Boone, and Benj. Em- mons. St. Genevieve. — Jno. D. Cooke, Henry Dodge, John Scott, and R, T. Brown. St. Louis. — David Barton, Edward Bates, Alexander McNair, William Rector, Jno. C. Sullivan, Pierre Chouteau, Jr., Bernard Pratte, and Thos. F. Riddick. Washington. — John Rice Jones, Samuel Perry, and John Hutch- ings. Wayne. — Elijah Bates. The Convention met at St. Louis, June 12, 1820, elected David Barton President, and William G. Pettus Secretary, and formed a constitution which was laid before Congress early in the session of 1820-21. The constitution contained a provision by which it was made the duty of the Legislature to pass laws "to prevent free OUTLINE HISTORY. 49 negroes or mulattoes from coming into and settling in this State, under any pretext whatever." This was considered by some of the members as a direct violation of the Constitution of the "United States, which they had sworn to support. Missouri, which had thus far contended for every inch of ground in her passage from a terri- torial to a State government, was now again the subject of conten- tion, of debate, and finally of compromise. The "restrictionists" and "anti-restrictionists" were again in hostile array, and the old contest was renewed, and carried on with a spirit which in many instances was quite unjustifiable, the effects of which are still per- ceptible in the enmity existing between even the descendants of the contending parties. After several months' time and thousands of dollars had been squandered in debating and wrangling over the subject, a resolution was finally passed through both Houses of Con- gress, which provided that "no law shall be passed by which any citizen of either of the States of this Union shall be excluded from any of the privileges and immunities to which such citizen is entitled under the Constitution of the United States." In compliance with the specification of the act, the Legislature of Missouri, on the 21st of June, 1821, passed a solemn public act of assent to the funda- mental provision contained in the above resolution, which was trans- mitted to the President, who, on the lOtli of August, 1821, issued his proclamation, and gave Missouri her place, as the twenty-third State in the Union.* The following are the particulars respecting the location of the seat of government, and the erection of the Capitol building: — An act providing for the location of the permanent seat of govern- ment for the State of Missouri, (approved November 16, 1820.) Sec. 1. — That John Thornton, from the County of Howard, Robert Gavy Watson, from the County of New Madrid, John B. White, from the County of Pike, James Logan, from the County of Wayne, and Jesse B. Boon, from the County of Montgomery, in the State of Missouri, shall be and they are hereby appointed Commis- sioners for the purpose of selecting a suitable place for the location of the permanent seat of government for said State, etc. An act supplementary to an act, entitled an act providing for the location of the permanent seat of government for the State of Mis- souri, (approved 28th June, 1821.) Sec. 1. — That Daniel Morgan Boon, of the County of Gasconade, be and he is hereby appointed a Commissioner for the purpose of * Beck's Gazetteer, edition of 1823. 4 50 OUTLINE HISTORY. selecting a suitable place for the location of the permanent seat of government of this State, to fill the vacancy occasioned by the death of Jesse B. Boon, one of the Commissioners heretofore appointed, etc. By the provisions of an act entitled "an act fixing the permanent seat of government, (approved 31st December, 1821,) the following described lands were selected for the permanent seat of government : "The fractional sections six, seven, and eight, the entire sections seventeen and eighteen, and so much of the north part of sections nineteen and twenty as will make four sections, all in fractional town- ship 44 north and range 11 west of 5th principal meridian." These lands had been previously selected by the Commissioners, and by a resolution approved 28th of June, 1821, the Governor was required to give notice to the Surveyor of Illinois, and Missouri, and Arkan- sas, and also to the Register of the proper land office, of said selection. By the provisions of "an act supplementary to the act fixing the permanent seat of government," (approved 11th January, 1822,) the same Commissioners were required to lay off a town on said sec- tions to be called "City of Jefferson." And all the said lands were to be laid off into lots, large or small. An act to provide for the building of a Capitol and for other pur- poses, (approved 2d February, 1837.) Sec. 1. — " The Governor, Secretary of State, Auditor of Public Accounts, Treasurer, and Attorney-General, or any three of them, shall be ex-officio Commissioners, whose duty it shall be to superin- tend the building of the Capitol," etc. Above the principal entrance to the Capitol is the following inscrip- tion : — Erected a.d. 1838. L. W. BoGGS, Governor. P. G. Glover, Secretary of State. H. H. Baber, Auditor Public Accounts. W. B. Napton, Attorney-General. A. McClellan, Treasurer. Commissioners. S. Hill, Architect. POPULATION. 51 POPULATION OF MISSOURI. FROM 1821* TO 18G0, INCLUSIVE. Adair Andrew Atchison Audrain Barry Barton Bates Benton Bollinger Boone Buchanan Butler Caldwell Callaway Camden Cape Girardeau. Carroll Carter Cass Cedar Chariton Christian Clarke Clay Clinton Cole Cooper Crawford Dade Dallas Daviess De Kalb Dent Douglass Dunklin Franklin Gasconade Gentry Greene Grundy HaiTison Henry Hickory Holt Howard Howell Iron Jackson Jasper Jefferson Johnson 1,T97 6,159 '7,852 ""7,445 1,028 3,023 B,4S3 5,904 1,721 1,928 1,174 3,484 1,545 2,823 "2,592 4,205 '13,561 1,458 11,765 9,359 2,423 4,746 2,846 8,282 2,724 6,754 10,484 3,561 2,736 '"4,'726 'is'ios 7,612 1,471 2,351 9,434 3,508 3,669 5,026 14,981 12,976 1,616 2,317 13,828 13'916 5,448 7,537 5,527 10.332 3,786 9,286 12,968 6,397 4,247 3,648 5,295 2,075 1,232 11,022 6,000 4.247 13;009 .3,005 2,446 4,052 2,330 3,955 13,971 14,001 4,223 6,928 7,464 0,535 10,944 3,394 6,130 4,929 5,702 5,080 17,248 15,813 2,151 3,626 15,906 3,287 9'663 new 6,813 9^211 5,946 10,138 15,082 7.672 aooi 4;620 7,940 1,207 8,781 14,124 7fiiQ 6,642 3,312 5,404 15,085 17,071 5,223 8,.507 10,880 7,890 11,011 4,404 7'761 1,816 6,787 8,528 5,958 14,494 21,918 2,125 4,931 13,135 4,631 12,734 8,757 1,062 8,851 6,442 9,851 5,326 9,318 9,584 6,704 8,724 13,591 6,650 6,735 5,800 9,248 5,101 5,542 2,459 4,535 16,478 8,456 11,922 11,568 7,909 10,621 8,620 4,618 6,281 10,120 3,200 5,433 19,166 6,607 8,861 13,080 97 1,071 1,351 247 21 4.'-|3 599 238 5,035 1,714 20 234 4,579 214 1,5.33 1,067 16 1,009 211 2,079 224 455 3,550 1,144 990 3,871 182 347 114 358 137 156 2 152 1,604 90 120 1,667 287 25 1,244 195 290 3,945 340 487 1,900 Present Covmty-seats. Kirksville. Savannah. Rockporfc. Mexico. Cassville. Lamar. Butler. Warsaw. Dallas. Columbia. St. Joseph. Poplar Bluff. Kingston. Fulton. Linn Creek. .Jackson. CarroUton. Van Buren. Harrisonville. Stockton. Keytesville. Ozark. Waterloo. Liberty. Plattsburg. Jefferson City. Booneville. Steelvillc. Greenfield. Buffalo. Gallatin. Maysville. Salem. Vera Cruz. Kennett. Union. Hermann. Albany. Springfield. Trenton. Bethany. Clinton. Hermitage. Oregon. Fayette. West Plains. fronton. Independence. Carthage. Hillsboro'. Warreusburg. * A State census was taken in September, 1821, at which time there were twenty-tive couuties in the State, and a population of 70,647 ; of whom 11,234 were slaves. 4* 52 POPULATION. Knox Laclede Lafayette.... Lawrence ... Lewis Lincoln Linn Livingston . McDonald.-. Macon Madison Maries Marion Mercer Miller Moniteau., Montgomery.... Morgan New Madrid Newton Nodaway Oregon Osage Ozark , Pemiscot Perry Pettis Phelps Pike Platte Polk Pulaski Putnam Ralls Kandolpli Ray Reynolds Ripley St. Charles St. Clair St. Frangois Ste. Genevieve. St. Louis Saline Schuyler Scotland Scott Shannon Shelby Stoddard Sullivan Taney Texas Vernon - Warren Washington. Wayne Webster Wright 1,907 2,032 '2,444 2,912 '4,059 2,371 "4,837 3,902 '2','35'6 3,181 8,190 1,176 4,375 2,924 2,057 4,320 2,366 2,186 14,125 2,873 6,815 6,040 7,449 2,245 4,325 9,623 "2,'2'8'2 9,505 4,371 4,407 4,5.54 3,790 10,646 8,913 8,a9 6,529 5,670 7,198 6,553 2,856 7,911 3,211 3,148 3,056 3,153 4,253 7,213 3,403 2,895 2,498 13,691 4,851 9^422 4,060 4,249 2,236 12,241 2.690 3,8.34 3,123 6,005 10,543 5,489 4,648 5,233 4,270 2,118 1,432 6,705 2,296 7,220 5,143 13,609 16.926 6;i85 4,010 5,861 8,815 4,418 5,484 4,559 17,070 7,613 9,959 11,630 6,567 6,495 3,533 8,285 6,256 3,248 13,144 5,603 4,024 4,241 6,402 11,353 7,263 5,767 4,317 6,720 4,772 3,405 6,594 10,530 12,256 2,399 3,884 13,428 4,986 5,797 6,158 144,977 12,633 4,691 7,535 3,792 1,4' 5,158 5,470 2,1 5,1 4,291 3,49 3,67 5,410 10,15' 4,829 6.719 3,109 1,.553 4,861 13,763 10|419 s'555 6,833 3,976 13,710 5,338 4^875 9,286 6.076 3,762 10,202 11,865 7,363 7,624 3,886 8,904 5,136 3,428 7,650 4,834 2,919 9,266 7,516 5,097 14,165 16,119 10,030 3,835 9,209 6,154 12*050 3,260 3,618 14,370 6,256 7,549 7,199 182,857 10,120 6,682 9,170 4,744 1,972 6,943 7,942 2,333 9,235 3,540 6,071 4,920 7,782 8,034 4,440 1,055,934 91 117 2,139 11 15 3,974 607 72 601 436 2,839 64 24 238 946 745 3,024 1,628 CoO 3,313 512 1,708 2,606 2,026 49 78 2,186 674 577 3,825 4,901 Present County-seats. Edina. Lebanon. Lexington. Mount Vernon. Monticello. Troy. Linneus Chillicothe. Pineville. Bloomington. Fredericktown. Vienna. Palmyra. Princeton. Tuscumbia. Charleston. California. Paris. Danville. Versailles. New Madrid. Neosho. Marysville. Thomasville. Linn. Rockbridge. Gayoso. Perryville. Georgetown. RoUa. Bowling Green. Platte City. Bolivar. Waynesville. Unionville. New London. Huntsville. Richmond. Centerville. Doniphan. St. Charles. Osceola. Farmington. Ste. Genevieve. St. Louis. Marshall. Lancaster. 189 16 103 82 43 142 1,019 890 238 220 06 6 Eminence. 52!shelbyville. 112,889 Bloomficld. Salina. Milan. Forsyth. Houston. Nevada City. Warrenton. I'otosi. Greenville. Marshfield. Hartsville. EDUCATION. 53 EDUCATION. The accomplished principal of the St. Louis Normal School says "it is the public schools that touch the life of the nation, and upon their character and success depends the stability of this government." The law for the organization, support, and government of common schools, now just being put into operation in Missouri, accords with the true spirit of progress, and when fully inaugurated will, in some respects, place our educational system in advance of many of the older States. "Public schools, like laws, are silent in the midst of arms." During the war, in several counties the schools were broken up, the teachers forced to flee for their personal safety, and the school-houses burnt or injured beyond repair. The State Superintendent, in his last annual report (1867), says : " The arts of industry are reclaiming the waste places ; the communities in certain parts of the State, reinforced by immigration from the neighbor- ing labor States, are replacing the school-house and employing the profes- sional teacher, educated under the ideas of patriotism, as well as in the methods of free school instruction. I wish to restrict this latter remark to those portions of our State where the friends of freedom predominate. * * * It is a uotable fact that all the counties in the State which show the pre- dominance of Free State power are clamorous for free schools. * * * They are rapidly placing themselves under the development of the school law, and demand, as among the prime elements of their newly-organized communities, substantial primary and high schools, to be under the control of intelligent officers and teachers. On the other hand, it is equally notable that those counties in the State which have proven to be under the control of the same influences which made them intolerant before the war and traitorous during it, are either wholly negligent of their public school interests, or bitterly hostile to them." By a careful perusal of the following table, the reader will readily decide the educational as well as the political status of each county, on the basis stated above by the State Superintendent. The capital of the Public School Fund on the first of October, 1866, was $1,004,071.98, having increased $200,167.14 during the preceding two years. The present school law had been in operation but about four months when the report was made from which the main features of this table were compiled, hence its results are scarcely notable. The number and influence of public schools will very rapidly increase, as this new law is appreciated and enforced. 54 EDUCATION. 5» O -2 00 -I 1; "^ S ^ S '3 s ^ o rC- <;■) r,'. P o « fj? o (yj 01 : irHo : ioicoj-jo : ion- I" 1 i 01 o\ h" ; rH rH j ^^ :"■* M M : :'"' " rH igssssss^s ps? j^Bg jSSK^s^ss : hss h^^a \ 1^5:5^ j 2,130 1,623 3.432 2,197 2,226 069 726 1,982 429 ""355" 180 ""957"" 1,138 ^3p 590 1,056 1,572 1,561 1,424 2,933 720 284 ""W 2,117 1,726 "l,506"" 1,583 939 '720 80 56"' ;:ss;£i=;5|3??g h?i :S|^§|s§|^|g?^ 1 ;ssg ;§s|g jsss i§ ""4,104" 2,422 4.207 4,901 2,147 1,801 2,945 3,847 4G8" " "2,993" 6,162 3,581 2,003 3,381 4,809 5',021 4,665 4.309 6,969 1,343 3,838 2,902 ""4,278" 5,319 3,250 2,665 ""2,149" 2;.390 108 """293" hs^s?^=°;2!;is 1 23 |8S^3=^c5SSS55§2 1 j^SS? |§§S?^ \^^^^ :^ I jrHOlOOrHOrHOOO jrHOO ItOOOuOXMO^^O^^OOCO \ \ IcqOC-I IcOgt-CO :,MCOrHrH \ \ H- CrH H^ i 0, i^^co i«^o.o i i i joo^ ^ M^ i j 16.405 8,042 ll.sr2 7,590 10,601 8.620 4,503 6,241 3,'l33 5,529 18,899 6,533 9,763 12,743 8,436 4875 13,688 8,659 10,983 11,347 8,509 6,812 13,673 5,179 4,830 15,732 3,957 9,274 6,572 3,849 9,375 11,722 8,061 7,545 3,803 8,842 5,123 2,983 7,623 2.361 li 1 1 1 ■1 ! .2 c i II i 1 1! 1 lull li as;? 1 1 s g 1 1 .iJl III zzz a II Jl '?. a 56 EDUCATION. i i > i il 542 476 283 1,244 764 192 163 278 1,171 508 138 1 iliiilg|SHl--pgS|piii!lSs^l-liBiis •p.-ioioo aqj jojsiooiios CO j j3 !::::: 1 •eaSauoo 0. ; h j M M M : 1 : BSUBuiraag : i ;«» i i H i M 1 i 1 ^ 1 •;08I3S ss - i-^ iS 2 " i Ic;^^ ^ i"* Ms Ms j H=^- ■qSiH ^ - :- o, : :^ i^o, j i M ^ a p o X.uiijj: oJS 2 jS^S Is^s sa=^ j i9ss5^=^ N 1 N 1 N j jSSS •siooqos HT •ON pai||S||j|i o -* : :ooc«io>-i loot- irn : : -s 1 ll-^-l o" CO •Annoo ui n.nuop.ioo JO -ON ■ : 2gS i IgS ^g Is-* h i N| j jS|g •/qiraoo ni naapiiMO Jo •Oil li!?0X llllliiiiisi COCOrHO -Tfr-ICO • (>? tO -H lilMgigiiilglsMiiM^lg 0.,-r4- : j CO'O CO ar,H" ico' JCO- I jrH-CO- j joirHof i •? 1 •301 5!^-S5 jSSg lg5??J3 coiMci : : o^ot- jco^ \^ i ig 1 jSgSS I •aurejj ^o,^g it. 2 M?5 j 0.^0 i i^^t-o I- : h 1 h : i^t-c, •5101.1a o : ^ 1 -" i OrH j ig^ h i i : ; i li IllllllllSllli-ll lilllSIIIIIIIISB ^r 1 1 o a t 1 a - s II 5 1 ji s c: ,| 1 •? 3^ 1 in 1^ 1 1 "5 ■"1 c 1 II mm5 nil c : : nil "5) RAILWAYS. 57 RAILWAYS IN MISSOURI The system of trunk lines projected in Missouri, when completed, will form a network, which, with the branch lines, will traverse every portion of the State. Since, in this great railway era, speed in tran- sit is the desideratum, and as it has been clearly demonstrated that railways are the most successful civilizers, as well as the greatest pro- ducers of business, it becomes Missouri to maintain her position among her sister States, by multiplying these iron arteries of commerce. Railroad lines are projected through the most populous and wealthy counties in the State — counties, some of which possess inexhaustible beds of mineral wealth, and others that are well settled by farmers, whose industry and perseverance are exhibited by the superior man- ner in which they cultivate their broad, fertile fields, and the abundant yield they gather as a reward. These artificial channels are much needed for the transportation of our valuable home products to a reliable market ; and none but those who are familiar with the capa- bilities of the State and of its unparalleled mineral and agricultural wealth, can form an adequate estimate of the immense treasures which lie hidden in the earth. Some of the finest portions of the State are yet comparatively undeveloped, and, indeed, almost unknown, because of their remoteness from any great thoroughfare. Few portions of the West are more productive, or possess better water, or a more genial climate than Southwestern Missouri, not merely in agricultural lands but in lead, marble, coal, petroleum, etc. All these now remain undeveloped because of the expense and delay necessary to take these products to market. For stock growing, also, this is one of the finest portions of the West ; yet, owing to its present isolated position, the population is sparse, and will continue so until facilities are afforded for the transportation of their agricultural and mineral productions to market. One of the immutable laws of trade is that where the demand is greater than the supply, the price of the article is enhanced, and the improved facilities for intercourse bring to our very doors the markets of the extreme eastern and southern borders of our country. When this Atlantic and Pacific road is completed, it will furnish an unbroken route from St. Louis to the Pacific, under the one manage- ment. This route is claimed to be five hundred miles shorter from New York to the Pacific than any other; running from St. Louis in a direction a little south of west — opening up in Southwest Missouri 58 RAILWAYS. as fine a section of country for agricultural or mining purposes as can be found in the Union — to the Canadian River in the Indian Territory ; thence westerly to Albuquerque, on the Rio del Norte, about forty miles south of Santa Fe, and thence along the thirty-fifth parallel north latitude, crossing the Colorado at the head of navigation, and entering California in the vicinity of Los Angelos, then along the valleys to San Francisco, crossing no mountains, and showing at no point a grade exceeding seventy feet to the mile, and passing so far south as never to be inconvenienced by snow. Another advantage claimed for this route is the brief time required to build it, owing to the avoidance of mountain work and delays of winter, and the ability to tap it at three points, viz., the Arkansas and Colorado Rivers, and by a short branch from San Diego, in California — thus making eight points from which to build the road. The rich lead region in Southwest Missouri, some of the best mines in which are owned by the company, will alone, it is thought, furnish a paying freight business. The St. Louis, L'on Mountains and Southern Railroad has been purchased by parties who will speedily extend it to the Mississippi River at Belmont, opposite Columbus, Ky., and to Helena or Memphis. The Southern trade is too extensive to depend upon river navigation entirely — low water and ice cannot be permitted to check the demands of commerce. Independent of the immense through passenger and freight business of this road, it will, with its branches, furnish an out- let to market for the richest mineral region, probably, in the world. This road will be rapidly extended to meet the wants of the people of Southern Missouri, and of the trade south from St. Louis. The North Missouri Railroad is being extended to the Iowa State line, there to be taken up by the people of Iowa and Minnesota, and rapidly completed — a through line to St. Paul. A western line is also being built from Allen, on this road, to the Missouri River. We trust the day is not far distant when the more important of these roads will be completed, bringing every portion of the State within a day's travel of the Father of Waters, and of the City of St. Louis ; when the shrill neigh of the iron horse shall be heard in the most re- mote corners of the State, and when the rattle of his tread shall re- verberate along the frontier, with thousands of intelligent and indus- trious settlers following in his wake, who shall " make the wilderness to blossom as the rose." DISTANCES BY RAILROADS. 59 DISTANCES BY RAILROADS IN MISSOURI. stations. St. Lnuis TO Miles. 6 WebsU-r Kirkwood Barrett's 10 14 17 19 27 Eureka 30 32 Pacific 37 Gray's Summit 41 45 South Point . .. 53 Washington 55 PACIFIC RAILROAD. Stations. Miles. St. Louis to Newport 62 Miller's Landing 67 Berger 75 Hermann 81 Gasconade 88 Chamois 100 St. Aubert 105 L'Onr's Creek 109 Bennett's Mill 113 Osage 117 Jefferson City 125 Scott 132 Lookout 140 California 150 Stations. Miles. St. Lodis to Tipton 163 Syracuse 168 Otterville 176 Smithton 182 Sedalia 189 Dresden 196 Knobnoster 208 Warrensburg 218 Holden 233 Krigsville 237 Pleasant Hill 249 Lee's Summit 261 Independence 274 Kansas City 283 Two through trains to Leavenworth City, making direct connection at Wyandotte with the Union Pacific Railway for Lawrence, Topeka., Manhattan, and Fort Riley. Stages leave Warrensburg for Lexington every morning: leave Sedalia for Springfield, Bolivar, and Warsaw daily on arrival of trains. Stages leave Tipton every evening for Booneville. Passengers taking the morning train from St. Louis connect at Pacific with the train daily for Eolla and intermediate stations. Stages leave Kolla every evening for Springfield. ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC RAILROAD. Stations. St. Louis to Miles. 5 Stations. St. Louis to Allcntown Miles. Stations. St. L"U1S to Miles. Pacific Junction or Harrison Cuba Knob View St. James Dillon Rolla ERN RAILROAD. Stations. St. Louis to Cadet... Mineral Points Hopewell Irondale Blairsville Iron Mountain Middle BiooU Pilot Kn on important interior towns ILROAD. Stations. Hannibal to Breckinridge Hamilton 82 14 Calvey Moselle St. Clair Stanton Sullivan MOUNTAINS Stations. St. Louis to AND 44 .... 48 .... 55 .... 65 .... 71 SOUTE Miles. .... 26 98 Maramec St. Paul Gleucoe 19 24 103 108 113 Eureka 30 ST. LOUIS, IRON Stations. Miles. St. Louis to Miles. Carondelet peevlv 61 Hematite Victoria De Soto /..V^!^.".'. 35 .... 39 69 Grimsley's Jefferson 14 !'.'.'.!!!".' 21 23 74 81 Kimmswick Windsor Harbor.... Tunnell 47 Blackwell's 50 ron Mountain and Pilot Knob for AL AND ST. JOSEPH RA Stations. Miles. Hannibal to Bevier "5 83 80 Stages connect w South. Statimis. Hannibal to Barkley th trains at I HANNIB Miles. 10 and the Miles. 145 P.^LMYKAt 14 C'lllao 79 156 171 37 47 69 St. Catharine.... Brookfield Lacle.le 100 104 109 177 Shelbina Clarence 185 Easton 194 200 ■70 Utica 135 * Branch roaU from Mineral Point to I'otosi, 3 miles, t From West Quincy to Palmyra Junction, 13 miles. 60 TABLE OF RIVER DISTANCES. NORTH MISSOURI RAILROAD. Stations. Miles. St. Louis to Bellefontaine 4 Jennings 6 Ferguson 9 Graham 11 Bridgton 13 Sectionie 16 Ferry Landing 19 St. Charles 20 Dardenne 29 O'Fallon 33 Perruque 37 Wentzville 42 Millville 48 Wright's 51 Warbenton 57 Stations. Miles. St. Louis to Jonesburg 67 High Hill 72 Florence 76 Muntftomory 81 Wellsburg.." 89 Martinsburg 94 Jeffstown 100 Mexico 107 Centralia 121 Sturgeon 129 Renick 139 Allen 146 Jacksonville 157 Hudson 168 Bevier 173 Stations. St. Louis to Miles. 177 St Catharine ... 198 202 Laclede 207 Chillicothb '.'.".'.'!!!!." 233 Breckenridge Hamilton 254 269 Osborn Stewartsville 275 283 292 St. Joseph 304 TABLE OF RIVER DISTANCES. DISTANCES FROM NEW ORLEANS TO ST. LOUIS. UP New Orleans to Carrolton 7 Red Church 26 College 60 Convent 62 Donaldsonville 78 Plaquemine 110 Baton Kouge 130 Port Hudson 153 Waterloo 159 Bayou Sara 105 Mouth Red River... 205 La. and Miss. Line. 207 Fort Adams 217 Natchez 277 Rodney 322 St. Joseph 327 Grand Gulf 340 Hard Times 345 New Carthage -371 Miles. DOWN 1278 1271 1252 1218 1210 1200 11G8 1148 1125 1119 1113 1073 1071 1061 1001 Stations. Miles. UP DOWN New Orleans to Warrenton 389 889 Vicksburg 401 877 Mouth Yazoo River 414 864 Millikeu's Bend 427 851 Lake Providence 477 801 Skipwith's Landing 487 791 Louisiana Line 498 780 Princeton 500 778 Grand Lake 504 774 Greenville 547 731 Columbia 557 721 Gains and Gntrs 575 703 Bolivar 605 673 Napoleon 620 658 Mouth White River. 645 633 Helena 728 550 Mouth St. F.R 738 540 Commerce 780 498 Mississippi Line 796 482 Stations. Miles. UP DOWN New Orleans to Memphis 818 460 Randolph 878 400 Asbport 918 360 Hale's Point 938 340 Arkansas Line 944 334 Point Pleasant 993 285 Tennessee Line 998 280 New Madrid 1003 275 Hickman 1040 2.38 Columbus 1057 221 Cairo 1077 201 Commerce 1112 166 Cape Girardeau 1127 151 Tower Rock 1152 126 Chester 1193 85 Ste. Genevieve 1213 65 Jefferson Barracks.. 1268 10 St. Louis 1278 DISTANCES FROM ST. LOUIS TO ST. PAUL. Stations. St. Louis to Alton Cap au Gris Clarksville Louisiana Hannibal Quincy Lagrange Canton Alexandria & Warsaw Keokuk Montrose Nauvoo Fort Madison Pontoosuc Dallas Burlington Oquawka Keithsburg New Boston Port Louisa Muscatine Stations. St. Louis to Rock Island \ Davenport j Le Claire & Port Byron Princeton & Cordova.... Camanche Albany Clinton Fulton and Lyons Sabula Savannah Belleview Galena Dubuque & Dunleith.... Welles' Landing Cassville Guttenburg Clayton McGregor Prairie du Chien Lansing DeSoto MiUs. 30 347 IS 365 6 371 10 3S1 3 384 6 390 2 392 20 412 3 415 2;i 438 12 450 20 470 15 485 15 hm 10 510 12 522 11 .>):« 3 536 30 566 6 571 Stations. St. Louis to Victory 5 Badaxe City 11 Bro wnoville 12 La Crosse 12 Richmond 16 Trempelau 5 Winona 13 Fountain City 10 Mount Vernon 11 Minnieski 3 Alma 15 Warbasbaw 9 Read's Landing 3 Noith Pepin 5 Lake City 7 Redwing IS Prcscott 30 Hastings 3 St. Paul .32 St. Anthony 14 726 756 759 791 805 ELEVATIONS IN MISSOURI. 61 DISTANCES ON THE MISSOURI RIVER FROM ST. LOUIS TO FORT BENTON. Statinns. St Louis to Jefferson City Booneville 58 Glasgow 32 Brunswick 35 Lexington 75 Kansas City 82 Leavenworth City 39 Atchison 37 St. Joseph .33 Nebraska City 175 Council Bluffs 53 Omaha 14 Florence 15 Little Sioux River.... 72 Sioux City 116 Vermillion Kiver 140 James River 47 Yancton 104 Bonhomme Island.... 16 Stations. St. Louis to Mouth Niobrarah... Yancton Aa;ency Fort Randall White River Crow Creek or Ush- er's Landing Fort Sully Fort Pierre Big Cheyenne Mouth Moreau Grand River Beaver River Cannon Ball River... Fort Rice Hart River Old Fort Clark Fort Berthold Little Missouri White Earth River.. Miles. 22 1239 .S2 1271 U 1-2S5 106 1391 94 1485 45 1530 5 1535 55 1.590 00 1690 31 1721 So 1806 30 1836 10 1846 .50 1S96 65 1961 59 2020 .30 2050 85 2135 Stations. Miles. St. Louis to Mouth Yellowstone... 135 2270 Fort Union 5 2275 Milk River .350 2625 Round Bute 135 Dophan's Rapids 152 Mouth Maria 218 2760 2912 31.30 Fort Benton 45 3175 Fort Benton to Silver City 150 Prickly Pear 170 Last Chance 171 Deer Lodge City 180 Deer Lodge Diggings 210 Virginia City 270 Bannock City 300 Gallatin 350 .351 ELEVATIONS IN MISSOURI. The elevations of the following places will give a general idea of the surface of the southern portion of the State. The first column shows the elevation above tide-water at Mobile Bay ; the second col- umn above the City Directrix at St. Louis. St. Louis Directrix 372 feet Base of Pilot Knob 909 537 feet Top of Pilot Knob 14i)0 1118 Marshticld, Webster County 1462 1090 New Madrid 947 575 Granby, Newton County 1030 668 Springfield 1452 1080 Ohio City 272 100 below A high "divide" extends from (Ireen County, through Webster, Wright, Texas, Dent, Iron, and St. Francois Counties. The western part of this higli region is a broad, rolling table-land ; but the eastern end is broken into numerous knobs, hills, and ridges, as seen at Pilot Knob, which is only twenty-eight feet higher than Marshfield, on the table-lands of the western end. G2 CLIMATE. Situated in the center of the United States possessions, lying between thirty-six and forty-one degrees north latitude, and between eighty-nine and ninety-six degrees west longitude, this State is free from the sudden and trying clianges experienced by residents nearer the sea-coast in the same latitudes. The difference in temperature, however, varies from 8° below zero in winter, to 110° above in summer. The seasons in their progress are gradual and uniform, subject to few or no abrupt transitions. The air is pure and salubrious. The following table is the result of twenty-five years' observations in St. Louis, by Dr. George Engelmann, and being centrally located in the State (latitudinally speaking), will give a correct idea of the gen- eral climate of the State. Some allowance should be made, however, for the effect of buildings, smoke, etc., which affect the temperature of a populous city somewhat. OBSERVATIONS AT ST. LOUIS FROM 1834 TO 1850, INCLUSIVE. Month. Mean Temp. Lowest Mean. Highest Mean. January 32-7 19-3 405 February 84-6 20-8 44-1 March , 44-5 27-5 56-7 April 562 44-4 66-7 Mny 660 60-5 69-3 June 74-2 70-8 78-3 July 78-8 72-5 83-5 August 76-2 71-0 81-5 September 69-8 64-4 76-1 October .55-7 48-4 62-8 November 43-0 347 518 December 33-5 25-0 40 5 55-4 — ]\Iean of all the years. The opinion has been advanced by some meteorologists that the temperature of the United States is annually becoming lower; the mean temperature of 1859 was 55-4, the same as the mean of all the twenty-five years above given. CLIMATE. 63 The following is the result of observations by James. W. Evans, Esq., during six years, taken at Big River, in St. Francois County. "r" indicates rain, and "n.r." no rain. MONTHS. 1S37. 1838. 1839. 1840. 1841. 1842. R. N.R. R. N.R. 26 19 21 21 20 12 26 24 28 22 19 24 262 R. 12 6 8 16 15 14 10 I 5 9 111 N.R. 19 14 16 16* 21 28 25 26 21 23 254 R. 8 8 11 10 14 8 9 12 5 :? 3 107 N.R. 23 21 20 I? 1 19 25 22 20 28 259 R. 2 8 9 12 I 3 6 9 9 81 N.R. 26 23 21 25 18 24 30 27 25 21 22 284 R. 4 9 11 13 11 8 4 4 6 5 85 N.R. 19 24 19 18 19 23 27 27 27 24 26 280 January February March 5 8 10 11 14 18 11 11 10 7 10 11 26 20 21 19 17 12 20 20 20 24 20 20 239 5 9 10 9 11 18 7 9 11 7 103 April May June July... September.... October November December Total 126 The following is the order of the leafing of the several trees, shrubs, etc., as recorded by J. W. Evans, Esq. NAME. 1839. 1840. 1S41. 1842. Gooseberry March 14 " 19 " 26 " 27 " 29 " 30 April 14 " 3 " 12 " 16 u 17* Feb. 28 March 5 " 8 March 19 March 1 " 6 " 15 " 28* " 25* " 18* April 25 " 9* " 18 " 16* " 16* Elder IMarch 26 Wild Cherry Apple-tree March 18 March 29 " 30 Sugar Maple White Maple Peach Willow Red Bud April 14 March 29* Plum 64 GRAPE CULTURE. GRAPE CULTURE IN MISSOURI, BY G. C. SWALLOW, STATE GEOLOGIST. There is, perhaps, no department of husbandry in which cultivators find so much difficulty and meet with so many failures as in the cultiva- tion of the vine ; and yet, while some fail, it is equally true that others meet with eminent success. It is quite obvious that the most of those who have failed in their efforts must attribute their failures to the want of adaptation, in their modes of culture, to the habits and wants of the vine ; as others, on the same soil and under the same sun, have been most successful. Notwithstanding the true principles of grape culture are so little iinderstood by the community at large, no department of agriculture has been more carefully investigated — more distinctly defined and reduced to scientific principles. Since Virgil wrote his masterly trea- tise upon the habits and cultivation of the vine, the principles which should govern its culture have been within the reach of all who would investigate the structure of this plant, and learn the soil and climate adapted to its perfect development. And, indeed, it could scarcely be otherwise, as the vine has occupied so prominent a position in the hus- bandry of almost all the enlightened nations of ancient and modern times. Since Noah planted a vineyard the vine has followed the pro- gress of husbandry and civilization throughout India, Arabia, Pales- tine, and Southern Europe. It holds an important place in the history of those seats of ancient civilization and progress. The " vine-clad hill" occupied a conspicuous position in every landscape, and the juice of the grape had its place at the social board and ruled the joys of the banquet hall. While it held so important a position among the nations, its value led the ablest minds to investigate its habits and deduce the best modes of culture from the experience of the many engaged in the pleasant pursuit. Solomon investigated the properties of the vine, and Virgil gave so excellent a treatise upon its habits and culture that the investigations and experience of the last two thousand years have added but little to the knowledge then possessed. Since, then, the habits of the vine, and the modes of culture best adapted to it have been so carefully determined and so thoroughly established by the experience of the last four thousand years, it only remains for the cultivators of our times to investigate the modes of culture so long and so successfully practiced in GRAPE CULTURE 65 India and the countries bordering upon the Mediterranean ; to inquire how far the varieties there cultivated and the culture there adopted will succeed in other localities ; to determine whether some new varie- ties may not succeed better in other climates and soils ; and what modifications of culture will secure the highest degree of success in the various soils and climates to which we would introduce the vine. It is obvious that the success of the grape depends upon the mutual adaptation of both soil and climate. In places where the soil has all the requisite properties, the climate may be such as to prevent full suc- cess ; as in many parts of New England, where the climate is too cold, and in England, where it is too moist. In many localities in Southern Europe the soil is such as to prevent the full success of the vine, though the climate is all that could be desired. Soil. — According to Virgil* and the best authors who have followed him, the soil should be warm, light, dry, and rich in alkalies and alkaline earths, especially potash, soda, lime, and magnesia. The best vines have been grownf upon soils of this description, and when any of these qualities have been wanting, the most skillful vine-growers have carefully supplied them by artificial means. Hence Virgil directs to place " porous stones and rough shells" in the trenches ; the stones and shells to loosen the soil and perfect the drainage, and the shells to supply the defect of lime. The vine has ever succeeded the best, other things being equal, in a calcareous soil. The best vineyards upon the Rhine, the Ohio, and the Missouri are upon soils rich in lime ; and, according to D'Orbigny, the wines from such soils in France are more lively and spirituous. * Geor., lib. ii. lines 217-221 and 262 — "Optinica putri arva solo." f The great, vine at Windsor Park was planted about fifty years ago. "In 1850," says Professor Lindley, "it produced two thousand large bunches of magnificent grapes, filjed a house one liundred and thirty-eight feet long and six- teen feet wide, and had a stem two feet and nine inches in circumference. The border in which it grows is warm, dry, light, shallow." The most famous claret vineyards of France are on the peninsular of Medoc, north of Bordeaux, where the soil is dry and warm, and so full of pebbles that the entire mass seems to be made up of them. A recent traveler thus describes the superior grape soil: — "Trellises of scarce two feet high carry the vines, and neither foliage nor the clusters can conceal the harsh, pebbly soil, which you would declare, if you were bred in a grain-growing country, to be utterly worthless. There are vineyards upon this gravel-bank of Medoc which have the look only of a waste of white silicious pebbles ; others again seem to be of slaty debris, and nowhere could you thrust your staff in the earth more than an inch or two. Yet upon this gravelly mass the sun lies warmly and kindly. For hours after sunset these pebbles, which have been basking all d;iy in the light, retain their heat, and through all the night give it to tlie little rootlets of the vine." 5 66 GRAPE CULTURE. The chemical composition of a plant also gives us sure indications of the mineral ingredients of the soil required for its perfect develop- ment. The following table, from Johnston's Agricultural Chemistry, contains the composition of five vines grown on five different soils. The result shows most conclusively what mineral substances are demanded for the perfection of the vine. Substances. a ^ 1 1 . li . C m « 1 1 o 1 g 1 Potash 17-32 28-50 29- 7-5 9-78 4-12 5-20 1-96 1-82 1-55 25-24 2-74 40-75 7-47 1-52 18-87 2-88 0-53 34-13 8-03 32-67 4-G6 0-16 16-35 2-16 0-50 1-45 24-93 7-31 37-59 7-12 0-24 19-55 2-37 0-35 0-62 26-41 8-79 33-47 9-16 0-19 16-87 2-44 0-25 2-48 25-60 11-07 34-85 7-64 1-25 15-37 2-36 0-68 1-22 Soda Lime Oxide of iron Phosphoric acid.... Sulphuric acid Cl)lorine Silica Total 100-00 100-00 100-11 100-08 100-06 100-04 Percentage of ashes in dry twigs 2-885 2-G89 2-525 2-25 2.. 325 2-525 These analyses show that potash, soda, lime, magnesia, and phos- phoric acid enter largely into the composition of the vine, and that grapes will succeed best on soils rich in those materials. The other Ingredients are such as are found in nearly all soils, and may be left out of our investigations. It is a well-established principle of vegetable science that lime may supply the place of soda and potash, in part at least, in some plants. The following analysis of vines from two localities ^how this to be true of the vine also : — I. II. Alkalies 45-82 27-98 Lime 29-75 40-75 If, therefore, soda and potash be deficient in a soil, their place may be partially supplied by lime, should it exist in sufiBcient quantities. Climate. — The success of the grape on the islands and the shores of the Mediterranean show their adaptation to a climate in which the winters are short and mild, and the summers are temperate and equable. In the Ionian Islands, where the grape attains great perfection, it is never exposed to pinching cold or burning heat, or to any very sudden changes from one to the other. But the great profusion and excellence GRAPE CULTURE. 67 of the grapes in India, at Candaliar and Cabul, the sunny home of the grape, indicate an ability to reach perfection in spite of sudden changes from extreme cold to burning heat. " In no part of the world," says Lindley, "are the grapes more delicious than in Candahar and Cabul;" and yet the traveler speaks of the hitter cold wind and blazing fires at night, and the burning sun by day in March ; and the sun's heat at 140° in May, where the grapes ripen as early as June. We may conclude, then, that the grape will, under favorable circum- stances, reach the greatest perfection though exposed to sudden changes and extremes of heat and cold. Having ascertained the conditions of soil and climate best adapted to the successful culture of the vine, it has been my aim, during the progress of the geological survey of Missouri, to determine how far these conditions are fulfilled in Missouri ; to what extent and with what success the vine may be cultivated in our State, and the advantages to be derived from its cultivation. In order to secure the most accurate data for our conclusions, our investigations have been directed to the following subjects : — 1 . The characters and habits of all our native vines and the soils on which they succeed best have been carefully noted. 2. Five persons* have been appointed to make meteorological ob- servations. One at Springfield, in the Southwest ; one at Cape Girar- deau, in the Southeast; one at Palmyra, in the Northeast; one at St. Joseph, in the Northwest ; and one at Columbia, in the centre, in the valley of the Missouri River. These observers have been supplied with the very best instruments, and they have made and recorded their observations according to the plan adopted by the Smithsonian Insti- tution. 3. The experience of our most successful vine-growers has been col- lected, and the results carefully compared with the conclusions derived from our examination of the climate, soils, and wild vines of the State. 4. The soils of the State have been carefully observed, and the varieties collected and submitted to a most skillful chemist for full and accurate analyses. * It gives me great pleasure to bear testimony to the disinterested labors of those who have so faithfully observed and recorded the meteorological phenomena at the stations above named. Our State will be under many obligations to the Rev. G. r. Comings, of St. Paul's College, Palmyra; Rev. James Knoud, of St. Vincent's College, Cape Girardeau; J. A. Stephens, Esq., Springtield; E. B. Neely, A.M., of the St. Joseph High School; and Miss M. B. Hill, at Columbia, who have made the observations at tlieir several localities. 68 GRAPE CULTURE. Native Grapes. — The growth and fruit of our native vines give us most important indications of the adaptation of our soil and climate to the cultivation of the grape. The following species have been observed ; the growth, habits, and fruit of each variety have been care- fully examined. 1. ViTis Labrusca, Linn. Fox Grape of the Northern States. This vine is abundant in all parts of the State. It attains to a very large size* in our rich alluvial bottoms and on our best upland soils ; but the vines of a smaller size, which are found on the poorest soils in the State, produce much the best grapes. Those which grow upon the dry ridges, on the declivities of the bluffs, (especially those of the mag- nesian limestone,) and on the talus of debris at their bases, exhibit a healthy, firm growth, and produce an abundance of fine fruit. The grapes found in these localities are larger, and the pulp is more juicy and palatable. Many well-known and excellent varieties of Grapes now in cultiva- tion were derived from this species. The Isabella, Catawba, Schuyl- kill, and Blands are the most esteemed. 2. ViTis Jj^STiVALis, Michx. Summer Grape. This, like the preceding, is found in all parts of the State, and is doubtless the largest of all our vines. It is one of the most striking objects in our magnificent upland forests ; while the stem, like a huge cable, hangs suspended from the limbs of the largest trees, the branches, clothed in rich foliage, and often loaded with fruit, hang in graceful festoons over the highest boughs. But the vines growing on the thin soils of our limestone ridges and bluffs, and on the loose debris at their bases, where they are more exposed to the air and the sun, produce a greater abundance of the best fruit. 3. ViTis CoRDiFOLiA, Michx. Winter or Frost Grape. This vine is widely diffused through the State : it is, perhaps, the largest of all our vines; but its fruit is not so large as the fox or the summer grape. Its fruit is small and acerb. 4. {Var. of the former, Gray.) Vitis Riparia, Michx. River Grape. This grape is partial to the alluvial soil along the margins of our streams. It grows to a large size. * This vine often attains a diameter of ten inches, ascends the loftiest trees, and spreads its branches over their highest boughs. GRAPE CULTURE. 69 5. YiTis vuLPiNxV, Linn. Muscadine of the West, and Fox Grape, according to Elliott, in the Southeastern States. It is found in the southern part of the State. I saw several vinos in Pemiscot and Dunklin Counties. It grows very large and pro- duces abundantly. Its fruit is very much esteemed. The cultivated Scuppernong Orape is a variety from this species. A small vine with the fruit like this grows in the southwestern counties. 6. YiTIS BiriNNATA, Miclix. This plant was observed in Cape Girardeau and Pemiscot Counties. 7. YiTis iNDivisr, Willd. This vine abounds in the central and western counties. From this list it will be seen that Missouri possesses nearly all the native grapes of our country, save one, the Vitis Caribosa? (D. C.) of California. The vines are so abundant and so large as to form an important and conspicuous part of every copse and thicket throughout the entire State. They are everywhere present, lending grace and beauty to every landscape, and indicating with prophetic certainty that the day is not far distant when the purple vineyards will cover our hills, the song of the vine-dresser fill the land with joy, and the generous juice of the grape will improve our moral, intellectual and physical powers. Experience of our Vine-dressers.* — Several vine-dressers in our State have been engaged in the cultivation of the grape during the last twelve or fourteen years. Their success has been fully equal to their expectations ; and they are full of high hopes of the most use- ful and profitable results, even of entire and permanent success. Their experience in cultivating the vine has led them to the same conclusion that we have deduced from our scientific examinations of the soil, climate, and native vines, viz. : that the vine can he cuUivated with entire success, in favorable localities, in all parts of the State. It should be borne in mind that these results have been derived mostly from vineyards in the valley of the Missouri and Mississippi Kivers, which are not, by far, the most favorable localities in the * I am indebted to Mr. William Haas, of Boonville, Mr. Geo. Ilusmann, of Hermann, Mr. Frederick Munch, of Marthasville, and Mr. Josepli Stuby, of Hamburg, for valuable information respecting the cultivation of grapes in our State. 70 GRAPE CULTURE. State ; for the "mildew" and the "rot," the most formidable obstacles they have had to contend with, may be partially or entirely obviated in localities where the atmosphere and soil are not so densely charged with moisture. The "rot," says one of our most successful vine- dressers, Mr. Haas, "attacks the berries when the soil is in a wet con- dition, in July and August. It is most severe on the low and wet parts of the vineyard." Mr. Husraann says, "the principal cause, all are agreed, is an excess of moisture about the roots, and damp, moist weather." 'Now the larger part of our vineyards are located upon a siif, cold, clayey subsoil, which of necessity retains the ex- cess of moisture and produces the injurious results. This evil may be oviated by thorough draining and preparation of the soil ; or, what is better, by selecting some of the millions of acres in the southern part of the State, where the soil is warmer and lighter, and richer in the ingredients most favorable to the vine, and where the subsoil is so porous as to permit a free passage to the excess of moisture. The mildew appears in June; and all agree that it is caused by "foggy, damp, and hot weather, accompanied by mists,^^ which is much more prevalent in the valleys of our large rivers than on the table-lands of the south. The characters of the two regions under comparison show most conclusively that the excess of moisture in the valleys must be con- siderable and permanent. These valleys are covered with numerous and extensive lakes and sloughs, and forests of rank growth and vast extent, besides the broad rivers which flow through them ; while the table-lands are almost destitute of lakes and ponds, and but par- tially covered by a very sparse and much less vigorous growth of timber. And, besides, they occupy an elevation of several hundred feet above the valleys. No fears, therefore, need be entertained that these obstacles will prevent the entire success of vine culture in Missouri, should our atmosphere even continue as moist as at present. But we may ex- pect much improvement in this respect, as it is fully established by past experience that the settlement of a country and the opening of a soil to cultivation lessen the amount of rain and moisture in the at- mosphere. Notwithstanding the many difficulties our vine-dressers have had to contend with, and notwithstanding some of their vineyards arc not, to say the least, in the most favorable localities in the State, their success has been very flattering. The vineyards of Boonville have yielded the present season about GRAPE CULTURE. 71 fiOOO gallons, worth $12,000. Five acres gave a clear profit of $2900, or $400 per acre. Mr. Haas made 1550 gallons from three acres. The vintage of Hermann was about 100,000 gallons, from less than 200 acres. At $1 per gallon, which is less than the value, it will give a profit of at least $400 per acre, or of $80,000 on the 200 acres in cultivation. One small vineyard at Hamburg, Mr. Joseph Stuby's, yielded over 1000 gallons per acre. The entire cost of vineyards, preparing the soil, setting and train- ing the vines till they come into bearing, varies from $200 to $300 per acre; annual cost of cultivation after, $50 to $60 per acre; ten per cent, on first cost, $20 to $30 per acre ; total expense for each year, $70 to $90 per acre. So that an income of $100 per annum for each acre is sufficient to pay the interest on the first cost and the expense of cultivation. Judging from the statistics before me, I would suppose all our vineyards have yielded an average of at least 250 gallons per acre since 1849, which, at an average price per gallon of $1 GO, would give an annual income of $400, and a yearly profit of $300 per acre. So that the vine-dresser, even in the poorest seasons, can scarcely fail of a handsome profit; while in good years his gains will far surpass those derived from any other department of husbandry. But the profits of our most successful cultivators have been much greater. M. Poeshel, of Hermann, is said to have made over 400 gallons per acre for the last ten years, and an annual profiit of more than $500 for each acre. Such are the favorable results legitimately derived from the expe- rience of our vine-dressers, in their early efforts in a new country, with a soil and climate unknown to the cultivators of the grape. All must admit that they are most satisfactory. Even if our climate does not become more dry, if no more improvements are made in the modes of culture, and if no more favorable localities are obtained, grape culture must increase very rai)idly, and become an important element in our agricultural and commercial interests. Climate. — It will be impossible to give, in the few pages allotted to me in this communication, the results of our meteorological observa- tions. It must suffice to state in general terms, that the extremes of heat and cold are not so great as in some of the best grape-growing regions; and that the atmosphere in the southern part of the State is sufficiently dry. The results, in short, present but one very objection- 12^ GRAPE CULTURE. able feature. There are occasional changes of temperature so great and sudden as to prove somewhat injurious to the grape at certain stages of its growth. But it should be observed that these changes are not so marked in the high table-lauds of the south and west as in the north and in the valleys of the Missouri anc", Mississippi, where our vineyards are located; and, even where most objectionable, they are not so great as in India, and other grape-growing districts of the Old World. That portion of Southern Missouri, extending from Newton County in the southwest to St. Genevieve in the southeast, usually repre- sented as the eastern extremity of the Ozark Mountains, is in fact a table-land varying from 1000 to 1500 feet above the ocean. In the west it is sufficiently undulating to be well drained, while in the east it sometimes rises into ridges and knobs of moderate elevation. From this table-land the country descends by moderate slopes in every direction. On the northern slope are the head-waters of the Sac, Pomme de Terre, Niangua, and Gasconade, flowing into the Mis- souri ; on the east, the Maramec and the Big, flowing into the Mis- sissippi ; on the south, the waters of the St. Franyois, the Current, and the White, with its tributaries, descending toward Arkansas ; and Spring River and Shoal Creek on the western slope. The valleys of the numerous streams which flow from this table- land are at first but little depressed below the genei'al level ; but the farther they descend, the deeper and wider they become, until they expand into broad alluvial bottoms, bounded by blufi's more or less precipitous. The fountains are numerous, bold, and pure; the streams clear and rapid. The surface of these table-lands is undulating, with no mountains or arid plains to disturb the equable and agreeable temperature which usually prevails at that elevation under the 37th parallel of north latitude. There are no swamps or overflowed lands from which vapors and noxious exhalations can arise to render the air damp and unhealthy. As these facts plainly indicate, the summers are long, temperate, dry, and salubrious,* and the winters short and mild. It possesses the clear, brilliant skies of Italy, and the dry, bracing air of the western prairies. Soil. — Nearly all the soils of Missouri possess all the ingredients necessary to the complete development of the vine ; but some of them are too heavy, wet, and cold, unless improved by artificial means. * According to the census report of ISoO, this is one of the most hculihy regions in the country. GRAPE CULTURE. 73 Tliis is true to some extent of those on the bluffs of the Mississippi and Missouri, where nearly all the vineyards of our State are located. These soils are based upon the bluff formation, where it contains more clay and less lime than in the western counties, which possess our best soils. Analysis of Soil from the Bluffs of Boone County, by Dr. Litton. Water expelled by drying fit 150° C Organic matter and water not ex'd at 150° C . Silica, etc., insoluble in hydrochloric acid. Soluble silica Alumina Peroxide of iron Oxide of manganese Lime Magnesia Potash Soda Phosphoric acid. Sulphuric acid .. Chlorine Total 100-0373 100-1311 100-3524 No. 12, A. No.l2,B. No.l2,C 0-4105 3-0957 90-1420 0-1384 3-06-54 2-0553 a trace 0-2086 0-3423 0-3368 0-1828 0'0560 0-0035 O'OOOO •(;558 -6049 •8063 1475 •9346 •0590 trace -1242 •2088 2121 2925 0346 0508 0000 0-8030 3-8901 85-0571 0-2187 4-7672 3-8814 a trace 0-4722 0-6581 0^3895 0^1220 0-0556 0-0099 0^0276 No. 12, A, was collected from 2 to 6 inches below the surface; No. 12, B, from 10 to 12; and No. 12, C, from 18 to 20 below the surface on a high ridge. This soil is very similar to those upon which the vineyards of Boon- ville, Hermann, and Hamburg are located; and it produced an abundance of large and excellent grapes on small vines of the Vitis labrusca. The superior native grapes growing upon this soil, and the succes of the vineyards above named, prove its adaptation to the vine. Its greatest defect is a capacity to hold and retain an excess of water ; which must be remedied by trenching and a proper admix- ture of vegetable matter, sand, pebbles, and broken limestone. This labor, however, may be avoided by selecting some of the millions of acres in Southern and Central Missouri, the soils of which are already prepared, as if by design, to invite the vine-dresser to possess and cultivate them. (See the sixth and seventh varieties of soil above described.) 74 GRAPE CULTURE. Analysis of a Maynesian Limestone Soil from the Southern Bluffs of Callaway County, by Dr Litton. Soil No. 14. Water expelled by heating to 150° C M700 Organic matter and water not driven oti' at 150° C 9-6299 Silica, etc., insoluble in liydrocliloric acid 54 2600 Soluble silica 01639 Alumina 10 8588 Peroxide of iron 2-5186 Manganese a trace Lime 8-0720 Magnesia 1-0609 Totassa 1-6378 Soda 0-3442 Carbonic acid 10-1111 Sulphuric acid 00605 Phosphoric acid 0-0950 Chlorine 0053 Total 100 5880 This soil is all that could be desired for the culture of the grape ; it contains an abundance of all the mineral substances which enter into the composition of the vine, as shown above by its analysis. While it is warm, light, and dry, it contains large quantities of magnesia and vegetable matter or humus, giving it great capacity for absorbing and retaining a sufficient quantity of moisture, even in the droughts of summer. This is a fair representation of the soils on the mag- nesian limestone ridges and slopes throughout Central and Southern Missouri. These slopes and ridges occupy millions of acres now deemed worthless, which are in fact by far the most valuable lands in the State for the cultivation of the grape ; especially is this true of those located upon the southern highlands, away from the vapors and sudden changes of our large rivers and their broad valleys. The magnesian limestone series occupies a large portion of Southern Missouri, and is made up of magnesian limestones, sand- stones, and porous chert, which are usually overlaid with thin beds of reddish-brown marly clays. The sand, lime, magnesia, and alumina, derived from the decomposition of these rocks, together with the abundance of vegetable matter and the alkalies derived from the fires which annually overrun this country, combine to form a soil* light, dry, warm, and rich in potash, soda, lime, magnesia, and all the other mineral ingredients needed to render it fertile, and suitable in an eminent degree for the culture of the vine. In many places this soil is underlaid with a sufficient quantity of pebbles and fragments of porous chert to constitute a most thorough system of drainage ; * See preceding analysis, No. 14. GRAPE CULTURE. 75 while in others the fragments of chert are disseminated through the soil in such quantities as to injure it somewhat for ordinary cultiva- tion,* but giving precisely the preparation so highly recommended by Yirgil and later authors, and the best cultivators of the grape. It is true that the native vines do not grow so large and sappy on this as on the deep, damp soils of the State; but they are nevertheless strong and healthy, and produce finer clusters of larger and better grapes. This improvement was particularly observed in the musca- dine and the summe?' grapes. This variety of soil also extends over a large portion of the coun- ties on both sides of the Osage, and over the southern part of Boone, Callaway, Montgomery, and Warren, on the north side of the Mis- souri, occupying in all an area of some 15,000,000 acres. Of these, at least 5,000,000 acres might be selected in the most desirable locali- ties and devoted to vineyards, without encroaching upon the lands most desirable for other departments of agriculture. And so far as we can judge from the characteristics of soil and climate, and the indications of the native vines, these 5,000,000 acres in the highlands of Southern Missouri present rare inducements to the vine-dresser — such a combination of favorable circumstances as will not fail to attract the attention of those who would engage in this most pleas- ant and profitable department of husbandry. And so important will be the results, that every effort should be put forth to hasten the time when these 5,000,000f acres shall be covered with flourishing vine- yards, giving profitable employment to 2,000,000 people, yielding more than 1,000,000,000 gallons of wine, and an annual profit, at the lowest estimate, of $500,000,000. And what is still more important, the pure, nourishing juice of the grape would take the place of the vile, maddening compounds used under the names of wine and brandy ; drunkenness would give place to sobriety, and our people, nourished by the grape and its pure wines, would become as robust and hardy as they are now daring and indomitable. Natural Terraces. — The bluffs of the numerous streams in Southern Missouri, and in the valley of the Osage, usually slope back into knobs and ridges, which are frequently surrounded by numerous natural terraces so regular and uniform that they appear like the * Tliose who travel over the flint ridges of Southern Missouri will ho struck with the resemblance of the soil, filled with fragments of chert, to that of the famous Medoc vineyards, described in tlie note on page 63. f France has about 5,000,000 acres in vineyards. They yield about 925,000,000 gallons of wine, besides tlie 95,000,000 gallons distilled into brandy, and give profitable eniplnyraent to 2,000,000 of people, mostly women and children. 76 GRAPE CULTURE. work of human hands. These terraces are produced by the decora - position of the strata of magnesian limestones which form the bluffs. Their height varies from one to six feet, and the width of the top from two to twelve, according to the angle of the slope and the height of the terrace. Their surfaces are nearly level, and usually covered with a light, warm, and rich soil, containing fragments of chert and the decomposing limestone, all wonderfully prepared by nature for the planting of vineyards. These terraces generally sur- round high, open ridges and knobs, exposed to the free circulation of the dry atmosphere of the region under consideration. We have observed but one objection to their use for vineyards. In some places the soil does not appear suf^ciently deep to secure the vine against the effects of droughts. But, as an offset to the want of depth, it always contains large proportions of carbonate of magnesia and humus, which give a great capacity for absorbing and retaining moisture ; as these substances possess this capacity to a greater degree than any of the other ingredients of our soils. And besides, the thinnest soils on these terraces sustain a vigorous growth of prai- rie grasses, flowers, shrubs, and vines, which produce the finest quality of grapes in great profusion. Caves. — There are numerous spacious caves in all parts of this interesting country. The temperature of those measured, ranges between 50° and 60° Fah. Many of them would make most excel- lent wine cellars, as their temperature is sufficiently low and uniform to prevent that acidity to which the wines of all temperate latitudes are predisposed. It should also be borne in mind that this is the richest mineral region in the Mississippi valley. It abounds in mines of lead, zinc, copper, cobalt, and mountains of iron, and quarries of marble ; and, besides, its agricultural resources are sufficient to sus- tain a population of many millions. These facts respecting the native vines, the climate, the experience of our vine-growers, and the so27, clearly prove the capacity of Mis- souri to become the great vine-growing region of our continent. They should encourage those noble spirits who have so faithfully devoted their labor and their money to promote this important department of husbandry in our midst ; for the time is not far distant when the "poor fiint ridges" and terraced slopes of Southern Missouri will be as valu- able for vineyards as some of them are now for their rich mineral deposits. The vine-clad hills of the beautiful Niangua will vie in wealth with the leaden veins of Potosi and Granby, and the iron mountains of Madison and St. Francois. GRAPE CULTURE. 77 AN ESSAY OX THE CIJLTURE OF THE GRArE IN MISSOURI. By George Husmann, Hermann, Mo. THE VINEYARD. Position and Soil. — The selection of a suitable location is very important. The best situations are generally our hill-sides, with an eastern, southeastern, or southern exposure. The freer the location, and the more exposed to the draught of our prevalent winds in sum- mer, the better. The slopes adjoining small water-courses should be particularly avoided, as they are peculiarly subject to frosts in winter and spring, and also, generally, to mildew and rot. The soil best suited for the vine is a dry, calcareous loam, with a poi'ous subsoil. Any soil retentive of moisture (for example, wet, stiff clay, or wet, spongy land of any kind) should be avoided, as the grapes are much more subject to mildew and rot on such soils, and the vines are apt to make a rampant, unhealthy growth. Preparation of the Ground. — The ground should be trenched with the spade to the depth of two to two and a half feet, and the top soil turned under. The best time for this is in autumn or early win- ter, as the soil will then be mellowed by the frosts. Mr. Poeshel, one of our most successful wine-growers, throws in a layer of corn stalks, brush cut with the leaves in summer, etc. at the bottom of the trench. This serves as a partial underdrain, and also as a manure, and is an excellent plan. Wet spots may be drained by gutters filled with loose stones, covered with flat ones, and then filled up with earth. Surface-draining maybe done by small ditches in every sixth or eighth row, running parallel with the hill-side, and leading into a main ditch at the end or middle of the vineyard. Steep declivities must be ter- raced or benched ; as this is, however, very expensive, they ought to be avoided. Planting. — Opinions differ much among wine-growers as to the proper distance in planting. Of course, the kind to be planted, and more or less vigor of growth, must be taken into consideration. For the Catawba, I would think six by six, or four by eight feet, the proper distance, the rows being eight feet apart, and the vines four feet in the rows. For Norton's Virginia, six by seven feet; and for Herbe- mont, six by eight feet, the rows being six feet, and the vines eight feet apart in the rows, as this is a very rampant grower. This will give free circulation of air between the rows, one of the great pre- ventives against mildew and rot, and also gives the roots ample space 78 GRAPE CULTURE. to spread. Much of the quality of the fruit also depends on this, as a free circulation of sun and air will, of course, materially improve the fruit. Much diversity of opinion also exists as to planting with cuttings or with rooted vines. My experience is decidedly in favor of the latter, for the following reasons : — 1st. A vine ought to have its prin- cipal roots at least a foot below the surface of the ground, but a cut- ting will often strike nearly all its roots near the surface, and will then never make a good, healthy vine ; whereas, in planting rooted vines, the roots can be placed where they ought to be. 2d. Some cuttings will always fail to grow, even if two are planted in the same place ; the vineyard will need much replanting, and the second plant- ing will not make as good plants as the first. Where no rooted vines can be had, I would advise planting cuttings in a nursery bed, in the following manner : Plant them in moist, sandy, well-pulverized soil, in rows three feet apart, and three inches apart in the rows, in a slant- ing position, one foot deep with the lower end, with the upper eye just above the ground, and keep them free from weeds during the summer. If the season is favorable, they will make fine strong plants for next spring's planting. The cuttings should be made of sound, well-ripened young wood, and contain at least four eyes or joints ; cut them off close below the lower eye and about an inch above the upper ; if a heel of the old wood is left attached, so much the better. They should be cut in the fall, tied in bundles, and buried in the ground until wanted for planting. This refers, of course, only to such varieties as Catawba, Isabella, and other kinds which will grow from cuttings. Many of our most valuable kinds, such as Norton's Virginia, Delaware, and others, will not grow from cuttings, and must be propagated by layering, grafting, etc. As a general rule, those varieties which have very firm, hard wood, and but little pith, will not propagate readily from cuttings. In planting the vineyard, lay the ground off with a line, and put down a stick sixteen to eighteen inches long, where each vine is to grow. Dig a hole eighteen inches deep in a slanting direction ; then, having pruned your vine to two buds of the young wood, lay it in, and take care to spread the roots properly ; then throw in a shovelful of rich, well-pulverized surface-soil about the roots, and fill up, tak- ing care to pulverize all thoroughly, and leave one bud above the ground. Of course, the planting should be done when the ground is dry enough to be light and mellow. Treatment of the Young Vine. — The first summer after planting, nothing is necessary but to keep the ground free from weeds, and the GRAPE CULTURE. 79 surface well pulverized, either with the hoe, cultivator, or plow. Should the vines grow very strong, they may be tied to the stakes used for marking off the ground, and only one shoot be allowed to grow. The next winter stakes should be provided. Here, again, opinions differ, some preferring simple stakes, others trellis. The latter is, undoubtedly, the best, and also the cheapest, if well made in the following manner : Take cedar posts, where they can be had, if not, mulberry, walnut, locust, white oak, or any other durable timber, split up to about three inches in diameter and seven feet long. Point them on one end, and make holes with a crowbar two feet deep in the spaces between the vines, setting the stakes firmly into these. To these stakes nail three laths, one about two feet from the ground, the others eighteen inches apart. They can be split of black oak, one inch broad by half an inch thick. Provided the stakes are made of durable timber, such a trellis Avill last from ten to fifteen years ; is much more convenient for tying the vines and training the young wood to them, and will prove the cheapest in the end, although it costs more at first, as it will not need resetting, as the small stakes do every spring. The next spring cut the young vines back to two eyes, and also cut off all the upper roots one or two joints below the surface of the ground. Should the vines be very strong, two shoots may be left to grow. Keep them neatly tied to the trellis with straw or bark, and pinch off all suckers and laterals to one joint or leaf beyond the lead- ing shoots. The vineyard must be kept clean from weeds, using the plow or cultivator between the rows, and for the first hoeing around the vines use the two-pronged German hoe, and hoe deep, turning the ground well; for all subsequent hoeings use a common field or garden hoe, and only scrape off the weeds lightly. In the fall unfasten the vines as they are not so liable to injury by frost as when kept tied to the trellis. The second spring after planting, cut the weakest vines back to three buds, and those that are strong enough may be cut, one row to two eyes, and the other to eight or ten for bearing. How- ever, the wish to have a crop should not lead, as it too frequently does, to taxing the vines beyond their strength, as it will injure them for a long time. Treat them the same way as the summer before, with the exception of the canes left for bearing, which must be tied to the trellis in the spring, and all the shoots on it showing fruit should be pinched back, before they bloom, to just above the last buuch of grapes ; and the suckers, which afterward appear, to one joint or leaf. After the third year the vine may be considered as established, and 80 GRAPE CULTURE. a full crop expected. It is in pruning now that the nicest judgment as to the capabilities of each vine for bearing is required, as the success of the vintner in raising a good crop, and also preserving his vines in a healthy condition, depends principally on this and judicious summer pruning. In pruning, the vintner should have a twofold object in view. First, to raise a good crop of well-developed and well-ripened fruit ; and, secondly, to get a supply of strong, well-ripened young wood, to give a good crop next season. If he prunes too long, he taxes the vine beyond its strength, and he will have an immense crop of small, worth- less fruit, which will not ripen well, and will, consequently, not make a good wine ; the young wood will be weak and not ripen well, will often be killed by the frost the coming winter, and his vines will lan- guish, and often die. If, on the other hand, he prunes too short, excessive growth will be the consequence, and mildew and rot will follow, as the superabundant growth will exclude all circulation of air. There is a certain medium point wiiich the observant vintner will soon learn to find — to tax each vine to its full capability, but not beyond that — when both objects will be accomplished, and a vineyard under such treatment will improve every year and last a long time. It is an impossibility, in a treatise of this kind, to give the length to which each vine ought to be pruned ; as this depends on the condition of the vine, the variety of grapes, (as some varieties require much longer pruning than others,) soil, location, etc. We prune a Catawba vine generally to one spur and one cane — the first to two eyes, the latter to from ten to twenty, sometimes even to twenty-five eyes, according to the strength of the vine. Norton's Yirginia can, how- ever, be pruned much longer. Leave no more young shoots to grow than are necessary to pro- duce two good canes, which ought to be grown, if possible, on the spur. All superfluous growth should be checked, as it will materi- ally weaken and injure the grapes. The principal consideration in our climate must be to force the grapes as much as possible, as the mildew will seldom attack them when the berries are larger than small peas. This is accomplished by pinching off the fruit-bearing shoots as soon as the fruit is visible, beyond the last bunch of grapes, and afterward pinching back all suckers to one leaf, until the latter end of July, when all may be left to grow unchecked, to produce young leaves, which will shade the fruit when ripening. The first pinching in ought to be done before the blossoms expand, and then they should not be disturbed until the bloom is over. Tie the young canes away from the fruit-bearing canes, to give freer circulation of air, and pinch ofi" all laterals on them to one leaf, for the same purpose. GRAPE CULTURE. 81 Where a vine has failed to grow, it can be replaced by a layer from a neighboring vine, made in the following manner : Dig a trench from the vine to the empty place, from a foot to eighteen inches deep, and bend into it one of the canes of the vine, pruned to the proper length. Let it come one or two eyes above the ground, at the place where the vine is to be, and fill up again with good light soil. The next spring it may be cut about half through, close to the parent vine, and the second spring it can be cut off altogether. Thus in- serted, it will strike roots at every joint and grow rapidly ; but as it takes much of its nourishment from the parent vine, that must be pruned much shorter the first year. This is a much better way than replanting with young vines. The summer culture of the ground is precisely as in the first and second years. It is generally observed, as a rule, that during wet seasons, the ground should be kept clean and smooth, stirring but little. During dry seasons, the ground should be drawn up to the vines and well stirred. Should a vineyard show a decrease in vigor, it can be manured by digging a small trench just above the vines, laying in manure, and covering up again with a plow or spade. Yegetable manure, compost, etc., I should consider most suitable; but good decomposed stable-yard manure will also do. Ashes are, no doubt, very beneficial to the vines. Should a vineyard lay on a very steep declivity, it will be liable to wash. This can be partially guarded against, as remarked before, by surface-drains every sixth or eighth row. But if too much ground is taken away, it must be re- plenished with ground. This can be carted to the vineyard, and then wheeled in between the rows with a wheelbarrow. This is very material, as the vines should always be kept well supplied with ground over the roots. Pruning is best done late in the fall, or early winter ; but it can be followed up all winter, until first of March. Fall pruning is best, however, as it will prevent all flow of sap, and the cuttings are also better, if cut in the fall, and buried, than if wintered on the vines. In pruning, this and all the following seasons, cut away all the old wood, such as bore fruit last season, close to the young canes left unchecked for bearing wood, and treat as the season before, pruning to one cane and one spur. This is called the renewal system of train- ing, and will always keep the vine in about the same bounds and in a thrifty condition, and is the best and most convenient mode for vineyards. Training of the Vine to Cover Arbors and Houses. — Tin's is alto- gether different from the treatment in vineyards, as fruit is but a 6 82 GRAPE CULTURE. secondarj object in this, the principal object being to cover a large space with dense foliage. However, a vine, if treated judiciously, will also produce a large quantity of fruit, although not of as good a quality as in the vineyard. Our first step must be, to grow very strong plants, to cover a large space. Prepare a border, by digging a trench two feet deep and four feet wide. Fill this with good soil, decomposed leaves, burnt bones, etc. Into this plant strong plants, cut back as for vineyard planting. Leave one shoot to grow on them during the first summer, which will get very strong. Cut this back, the following spring, to three buds. These will each throw out a strong shoot, which should be tied to the arbor they are designed to cover, and left to grow un- checked. In the spring following, cut each of them back to three eyes, as it must be our object first to get a good basis for our vines. This will give us nine canes the third summer, and the vine being now thoroughly established and strong, we can begin to work in good earnest. It will be perceived that the vine has three different sec- tions or principal branches, each with three canes. Cut one of these back to two eyes, and the other two to canes of corresponding length with the strength of the vine. These are tied up, and all the laterals they throw out left unchecked, and distributed evenly over the trellis. In the spring following, if the vine looks very thrifty, all of these may be cut back to two'eyes each, one being calculated to produce fruit; and the other to produce a young cane again. The spring fol- lowing, the strongest is cut to four or five, and the weakest to one eye, and the spurs at the bottom are kept up by the renewal mode of training, to come in as a reserve, should any of the branches become diseased. In this manner a vine can be made, in course of time, to cover a large space, and get very old. The great vine at Windsor Park was planted more than fifty years ago, and in 1850 it produced 2000 large bunches of magnificent grapes, filled a house 138 feet long and sixteen feet wide, and had a stem two feet nine inches in circumference. This is one of the largest on record. They need, however, strong manuring every year to come to full perfection. Diseases, Insects, and Frosts. — The mildew is our most formidable grape disease. It generally appears from the fifth to the fifteenth of June, after abundant rains, and damp, warm weather; and I have seen it destroy two-thirds of our Catawba crop within forty-eight hours. I fully concur in the opinion of Mr. T. F. Allen, of Salem, Massachusetts, as expressed in tlie Patent Office Report for 1854, to which I refer all wishing information on the subject. He thinks it a parasitic fungus, and recommends sulphur as a remedy. We have GRAPE CULTURE. 83 had some seasons a very dry, pure atmosphere, and have then not had a trace of it. Close summer pruning will do much to prevent it, throwing as it does all the strength of the vines into the grapes, and allowing freer circulation of air. It was first perceived in 1849, and has since that generally taken one-half to two-thirds of our grapes, (that is, Catawba,) except when we have had an unusually dry season. The so-called gray rot or grape cholera generally follows the mil- dew. Indeed, I think the mildew the principal cause of it, as I generally find it on berries whose stems have been injured by the mildew. The principal cause of rot and mildew, all agree, is excess of moisture around the roots, and damp, moist weather. The spotted or brown rot will also take some of the Catawba almost every year; is, however, more destructive on the Isabella and Herbemont. The bitter rot or speck sometimes appears shortly before ripening, but is neither destructive nor common. Premature dropping of the leaves also affects the grapes very much, as they are then exposed to the sun, which often literally scalds them. Early summer pruning has proved a partial remedy, as the young leaves which grow after the first pruning generally remain fresh and healthy long after the first leaves have dropped. Such vines are afi'ected most that have beeu taxed beyond their strength in bearing. Close spring pruning, allow- ing no moi'e bearing wood than the vine can support, generally pre- vents it, at least partially. The insects most destructive are small gray or green worms, which feed on the young leaves before blossoming. These ought to be destroyed at the first summer pruning. An insect, resembling the curculio, has also been frequently found on the berries, depositing ova and destroying them. A small black beetle will often sting the young shoots, causing them to break off, and grasshoppers will eat the stems of the berries. The skeleton worm, a small greenish worm, also often eats the upper side of the leaves, and thus destroys them. About the time of ripening, wasps will sometimes be annoying, suck- ing the juice of the berries. Frosts in winter have sometimes been very destructive, and it is my opinion that the Catawba suffers from them more or less every year. I would therefore recommend laying in, in the following man- ner: In autumn, prune your vines to a proper length, then bend them down to the ground along the trellis, and fasten them there by throwing a spadeful of earth on them. Afterward run a plow through the rows, and throw a furrow of earth on the vines. In the spring, take them up, by running a dung-fork under them and lifting tliem up. This is a very simple and expeditious method, and has 84 GRAPE CULTURE. been successfully followed near Galena, Illinois, by Mr. James Sou- lard and others. The cost of the whole operation will not be over five dollars to ten dollars per acre, and will be found much safer than trusting to chance to bring a mild winter. It is here again that the advantages of such hardy kinds as Norton's Yirginia and Concord, over the Catawba, will be perceived and appreciated by all who try them. Late spring frosts will also sometimes destroy the young shoots in low localities, I would recommend not to tie the vines too early, as they are not so easily hurt by frost when kept in motion by draught of air. METHODS TO PROPAGATE NEW AND RARE KINDS. I. By Grafting. — The following mode of grafting has been prac- ticed very successfully here : From the middle to the end of March, dig away the ground around the vine you wish to graft, until you come to a smooth place to insert your scion, then cut off the vine with a sharp knife, and insert one or two scions, according to the strength of the vine, as in common cleft grafting, taking care to cut the wedge very long and thin, with shoulders on both sides, cutting your scion to two or three eyes. Great care must be taken to insert the scion properly, as the inner bark or liber of the vine is very thin, and the success of the operation depends upon a perfect juncture of it in the stock and scion. If the vine is strong, no further bandage is necessary, only press a little moist earth on the wound, and fill up carefully with well-pulverized earth. If only one eye of the scion remains above the ground, so much the better. I have had shoots of scions thus inserted, of twenty-five feet* in length the first season, bearing a few bunches of grapes, while the next season they pro- duced a full crop. The advantages of this method in testing new kinds, over the common way of planting young vines, will be at once perceived, as there is more than a year gained by it, II. By Layering, — In the spring, before the buds start, make a bed of fine mould under your vines, then take canes of last year's growth, prune off all dry and imperfect wood, and fasten them to the ground by wooden hooks. Let them remain until the buds have sprouted, say six or eight inches long, then fill fine mould around the shoots, say an inch deep, and after two or three weeks fill up another inch. They will strike roots readily, and make splendid vines for next spring's planting. A good vine, treated in this manner, will make from thirty to fifty plants in a season. The same process is often followed Avith the young shoots during June and July; but GRAPE CULTURE. 85 only the varieties with soft wood can be propagated readily at that time, whereas under the former treatment, even the most obdurate will take root. For the latter purpose, all the suckers should be left on the vine yon wish to layer, and the ends of the leading shoots pinched off, to force the laterals into stronger growth. The former method, however, makes the best plants. III. By Single Eyes. — For this purpose, a hot-bed must be pre- pared in the following manner: Dig a pit two feet deep to two and a half, then put in a foot to eighteen inches of strong manure ; on this put eight inches to a foot of well-pulverized earth, then make a thin layer of short moss, in which insert the buds in a slanting posi- tion. They are prepared in the following manner: Take well-ripened wood, and cut it into single eyes, leaving about half an inch of wood on them, above and below the bud. Kinds that have very hard wood will root more readily if cut a week or two before, put into a box covered with sand and left in a moist cellar to sweat. After having pressed your buds into the moss in a slanting position, in rows, three inches apart and half an inch in the rows, cover up evenly with fine sand and place a common hot-bed sash over them. They must be kept moist and given air freely, or they will damp off. An immense number of plants can thus be grown from a few vines, and in a small space ; but they need close attention, and will at the best only make weak plants the first year. VAllIETIES OF GRAPES. I. Varieties tried here. — Catawba. — As yet generally cultivated, and would be an excellent grape were it not so liable to rot. Bunch medium to large; half an inch in diameter, round, dark red or cop- per color, sometimes almost black here, covered with a fine lilac bloom ; flesh pulpy, sweet and good. Makes a good wine, varying from straw color to pink, of a fine fruity aroma, making an excellent champagne, and a good dry hock. It is an abundant bearer in dry seasons, and increases readily from layers and cuttings. Ripens in September. Isabella. — Does not always succeed here ; sometimes good, often indifferent. Bunches long, medium, loose ; berries large, oval, black ; sweet, but musky and pulpy ; subject to rot. Not worthy of cultiva- tion where the following can be had : Concord. — Proves very successful here ; of much better quality than at the East, and entirely free from mildew and rot. Bunch large and heavy, shouldered, somewhat compact ; berries longer than 86 GRAPE CULTURE. Catawba, round, black, buttery, very sweet and rich. A fine table grape, but has not as yet been tested for wine here. Vine strong and vigorous, very hardy; will keep its leaves fresh and green until frost, and increases readily from layers and cuttings. Ripens two weeks before Catawba, and is a much better market grape. Should be in every collection, and will give more clear profit as a market grape than any other variety yet tried here. Norton's Yirginia — Norton's Seedling. — This grape has proved eminently successful here, and has opened a new era in American grape culture. While the wine of the Catawba is often compared to good hock, in Norton's Virginia we have a wine of an entirely different character, which will compare favorably with good Port wine or Burgundy. Vine vigorous and hardy, productive, starting a week later in the spring than the Catawba, yet ripening its fruit a week sooner, which will make it very valuable in low localities. Bunches medium, compact ; berries small, black, sweet, and rich, only moderately juicy; makes an excellent dark-red wine; not subject to mildew and rot. A most reliable grape in all localities. Herbemont. — Received from Cincinnati under the name of Lenoir. Very successful here, but rather tender; requires covering in hard winters; a very vigorous grower, and but very little subject to mildew or rot. Bunches long, compact, shouldered; berries below medium, black, covered with a blue bloom; skin thin, sweet; flesh without pulp, juicy and high flavored, delicious, fine for the table, and makes excellent wine ; very productive. Ripens with the Catawba, but blooms a week to ten days later. Missouri — Missouri Bird's Eye. — A nice little grape for the table, and makes an excellent wine. Bunches long, loose, shouldered; berries small, black, very sweet; ripens a week before Catawba. Not subject to mildew and rot; vine a modei'ate grower and bearer; wine resembling good Madeira, in color, flavor, and body. II. Varieties fruited several times, promising well, but not suf- ficiently tested. — Poeshel's Mammoth. — A seedling of the Mam- moth Catawba, raised by Mr. Michael Poeshel. Bunches large and heavy, sometimes shouldered, very compact. Berries very large, often an inch and a quarter in diameter, round, color like Catawba, pulpy but juicy, with an agreeable, sweet, vinous taste. Fruited twice, makes good wine, and looks truly splendid this season. But little subject to I'ot, ripens after Catawba, and promises to be a valuable acquisition. Crystal. — A seedling of the Catawba, originated with Mr. Fricke, near Hermann. Bunches medium, compact, shouldered; berries (5RAPE CULTURE. 87 somewhat smaller than Catawba, gTeenish white in the shade, amber colored in the sun ; translucent, covered with a white bloom ; flesh somewhat pulpy, inicj, sweet, and delicious. A moderate grower, promises to be valuable as a table grape. III. Varieties not fruited here, but recommended by good authorities, and which ought to be tried in our climate. — Dela- ware. — All good authorities concur in pronouncing this the best grape in America. Free from blight and mildew, never prematurely- losing its leaves, and seeming to luxuriate in our climate. Bunches small, very compact, and generally shouldered ; berries small, round ; skin thin, of a beautiful light-red or flesh color, translucent; without hardness or acidity in its pulp, very sweet, but sprightly, vinous and aromatic. Ripens three weeks before Catawba. (Charles Downing.) Diana. — A seedling of the Catawba, which it resembles, but much surpasses in quality, ripens two weeks earlier. Bunch medium; berries medium, reddish lilac, covered with bloom, marked with star- like specks ; very juicy, rich, and aromatic, without offensive musk- iness, and keeps a long time. Rebecca. — Bunches cylindric, about four inches long, very com- pact, often shouldered; berries full medium, oval; color light green in the shade, golden in the sun, covered with bloom, translucent; flesh of some consistency, juicy, sweet, and delicious, with a per- ceptible native perfume, but not disagreeable ; ripens eight or ten (lays before Isabella, and is not subject to mildew. Clara. — A white grape of the best quality; bunches long; ber- ries medium, round, green, faintly tinged with salmon w'hen exposed to the sun; flesh tender, juicy; flavor rich, sweet, and delicious; (juality best. Hartford PROLiric. — Hardy, vigorous, and productive ; bunch large, compact; berries large, globular, somewhat foxy, black, covered with a bloom ; flesh sweet, moderately juicy ; ripens about ten days before Isabella. Clinton. — Vigorous, hardy, and productive; bunch medium, shouldered, long, and narrow, but compact ; berry round, below medium, black, covered with a thin bloom ; juicy, pulpy, brisk vinous Havor, eatable eight or ten days before Isabella, but continues aus- tere till after cold weather, when it becomes very good. Will prob- ably prove valuable for wine. Anna. — Bunches large and loose; berries large, globular, white, changing to amber, translucent, with a white bloom ; sweet, rich, vinous, and high flavored, with a delightful aroma; a good grower, and free from mildew and rot ; ripens ten days before Catawba. »» GRAPE CULTURE. Union Tillage. — The fruit is as large as the Black Hamburg, which it resembles ; very hardy and monstrous grower ; bunches very large, sweet, and rich ; a fine table grape ; ripens with the Isabella. Cassady. — Bunch medium, compact, shouldered; berry round, medium, greenish white, with a faint salmon tint, thickly covered with white bloom; flesh juicy, with but little pulp; flavor pleasant; very good. Emily. — Nearly white, very rich and of delicious flavor; the bunches and berries resemble in size the Catawba ; entirely free from pulp, a first-rate table grape, and two weeks earlier than the Isabella. Brindle. — A black grape of very rich flavor, bunches resembling Black Hamburg, but not so compact; ripens from two to three weeks earlier than Isabella, and is a first-rate table grape. A free bearer. Graham. — Bunch of medium size, shouldered, not compact; berry half an inch in diameter, round, purple, thickly covered with bloom, not pulpy, and abounds in saccharine juice of most agreeable flavor; quality best. Perkins. — A fine grape, almost white, berries resembling Isabella in shape and size, sweet, luscious, and vigorous; ripe three weeks before Isabella ; hardy and productive. Raabe. — A purple grape, very sweet, and is highly esteemed for wine ; bears freely, and ripens three weeks before Isabella. Bunches and berries of medium size ; quality best. Devereux. — Bunches of medium size, compact ; berries rather small, purple, very juicy, and sweet; good table grape and makes a good wine ; not liable to rot. Latter part of July. Garrigues. — A vigorous grower, hardy and productive; very much resembles Isabella, and no doubt a seedling of it. Bunch large, loose, shouldered; berries large, oval, dark purple, covered with a thick bloom ; juicy, sweet, and rich. Ripe ten days before Isabella. Marion. — Vines healthy, wood firm, short jointed, good bearer. Bunches large, regular, seldom shouldered ; berries medium, inclining to oval, dark purplish black, with blue bloom ; juice abundant, pulp thin ; promising to be one of the most valuable. To Kalon. — Perfectly hardy, and ripens alittle eai-lier than Isabella; bunches large, shouldered ; berries oval, large, very dark in color, very sweet, buttery, and luscious ; an abundant bearer. The above descriptions are mostly copied from Downing, Elliot, and Dr. Grant, and comprise the most desirable of the new kinds. IV. Varieties which may prove valuable, but are not fully tested at the East. — Canadian Chief, Canby's August, Child's Supebb GRAPE CULTURE. 89 Hyde's Eliza, Louisa, Logan, Massachusetts White, Golden Clinton, Northern Muscadine, Garber's Albiness, August Coral, Camac, Louisiana, North Carolina Seedling, Minor's Seedling, Early Isabella, Ozark Seedling, Illinois, Husmann's Prolieic, Red River, Arkansas, Texas Post Oak. I have them all under trial, and hope to fruit them next season. V. Varieties represented by better sorts. — Bland's Madeira, Mammoth Catawba, North Carolina, Halifax, Wine Home, Little Ozark. It is truly gratifying to the lover of this noble fruit to see the warm interest in its culture and improvement which manifests itself through- out the country. New varieties spring up every day, and we can already count them by the hundred. That among them there are many which, on farther trial, will prove worthless, there can be no doubt ; but there have also been found among them some whose excellence is already established beyond a doubt. Great changes are also effected in some varieties by change of soil, climate, etc., of which we have an instance in the Concord, which is much better here than a. the East, and for which I confidently predict a great future. It is a pleasing and highly interesting task for the amateur to raise new varieties from seed, by hybridizing ; by taking the young wood from seedlings that promise well and look healthy, and grafting it on strong vines, fruit can be had of them the third year after sowing, instead of waiting four or five years. Let us, then, all put our shoulder to the wheel, and we will yet find varieties which will combine all qualities we want. We have a wide field with all natural advantages before us, and an immense territory suitable to grape culture. Ours be the glorious task to cover it with smiling vineyards; and we will do more toward promoting the cause of temperance, by giving to the people a healthy and strength- ening drink, than all the Maine liquor laws will be able to accomplish. If every man in our State cannot rest under his fig-tree, he can at least rest in the shade of his vines. There is hardly a house so crowded in but there will be room on its side or over its porch for the graceful festoons of the vine, to refresh old and young by its luscious fruit. Let us, then, plant and cherish it as one of the choicest gifts of our Heavenly Father accessible to all his children, be they rich or poor. MAKING WINE. The Wine-press. — It is made somewhat like a screw cider-press. An iron screw, three or four inches in diameter is used, either in a strong, upright frame, or coming up through the center of the plat- form. A strong, tight box-platform, six or seven feet square, is made 90 GRAPE CULTURE. of strong plank, two or three inches thick, and six or eight inches at the sides, wedged between heavy timbers. It ought to slope about two inches to the front, which is left open, and a small spout or gutter nailed under it to receive the juice and lead it into a tub. Boards to lay over the mashed grapes, and pieces of oak scantlings to lay across to receive the pressure, complete the arrangement. The power is applied by a strong lever attached to the nut of the screw. Gathering and Pressing the Grapes.— The grapes should remain on the vines until very ripe. Pick off all decayed, dry, or unripe ber- ries from the bunches in gathering. Such berries as are not fully ripe may be put into a separate vessel, to make an inferior wine. They may then be bruised in a tub with a wooden pestle, or run through a mill made for that purpose. I have used Ilicock's cider-mill to advantage, by taking off the upper zinc cylinder. They are then emptied into a large receiving or fermenting tub, with a spile on one side to draw off the must. This is covered with a cloth, and the mashed grapes left to undergo a slight fermentation. I generally let them ferment twenty- four hours, and then draw off the must, and press. Some press them immediately ; others leave them to ferment three or four days. When pressed immediately, they will make a light-colored, mild, agreeable wine, which will soon be salable. If fermented longer, they will make a wine of a darker color, more aroma and more stringency, but which will keep better and improve with age. In the whole process of wine making the utmost cleanliness should be observed. After fermenting, the grapes are emptied into the press and pressed several times, until all the juice is extracted. The must is then filled into clean, sweet casks, in a cool cellar. Should the casks be new, soak them for eight or ten days in clear water. They are then scalded with hot water, and when dry fumigated with sulphur. Fill the cask to within three inches of the bung-hole, and lay a vine-leaf, with a small sac filled with sand, on the bung-hole. They should then remain until fermentation is over, when they can be filled with must, kept sep- arate for that purpose, and bunged tight. In February or March the wine will be clear. It should then be racked into clean casks and bunged tight. A slight fermentation will ensue in May, after which it should be racked again, and may then be kept in casks or bottles, as most convenient. Another Method to make a Superior Wine. — Leave the grapes on the vines until very ripe, then gatlicr carefully and spread the grapes in a dry loft, where there is plenty of air, on layers of clean straw. Let them remain for about two weeks, then draw them through a rasp, made for that purpose, to separate the berries from the stem; or they GRAPE CULTURE. 91 may be stripped off by hand, raashed, and then pressed. This will make a very strong, yet mild wine, which will not have the stringency so many object to in our native wines, as this is mostly in the stems of the grapes ; but it is very troublesome, and will never be extensively practiced. Keeping the Grapes for Winter Use.— In a dry day gather the grapes, choosing the best bunches, and carefully cut out, with a pair of scissors, all decayed or rotten berries, taking care not to bruise them, and lay them in a shallow basket. Seal the stems with sealing-wax, to keep them from shriveling, and lay them in a dry, airy garret, on clean, sweet straw, spread for that purpose. They must be spread thin, so they do not touch each other. In this way they will keep for several months. If you wish to keep them still longer, pack them, after a few days, into shallow boxes, betv/een layers of cotton batting, and place them in a cool room. They may be kept thus for three or four months. Statistics. — The cost of establishing a vineyard naturally depends much upon the quality of the soil, cost of labor, variety of vines, etc. The following is about the cost of a Catawba vineyard per acre, in common soil, without stones ; distance six by six or four by eight feet, with spaces allowed for surface drains, paths, etc. : — Cost of 1100 yearling plants $25 00 " " trenching 75 00 " " planting -5 00 " " 1100 small stakes 5 00 " " attention during first summer 25 00 " " 11-50 cedar posts, at 8 cents 'j2 00 " " 3300 laths, nails, etc 20 00 " '■ labor, second year 50 00 " '• labor, third year 83 00 Total $400 00 Of course, several of these items can be furnished considerably cheaper where timber is convenient. The following has been the produce of a vineyard of Cataw^ba now under my care, since 1849 : — Bearing season. Vines in bearing. 1849, first 1500 1850, second 2000 1851, third 2000 1852, fourth 1800 1853, fifth 1500 1854, sixth 2500 1855, seventh 3000 Galls, wine made. Price. \ield per acre. 750 $1 25 $6 00 150 1 25 95 500 1 25 3 00 210 1 25 1 20 580 1 25 5 00 750 1 75 G 00 230 2 00 1 50 92 GRAPE CULTURE. Bearing season. Vines in bearing. Galls, wine made. Price. 1856, eighth 4000 150 $2 00 1857, ninth 4000 2000 120 1858, tenth 4000 210 120 1859, eleventh 1200probably. 1200 probably. 1 20 Which will show the average yield to have been about 3 23 Deduct from this cost of yearly labor 50 Interest on $400 atlOpercent 40 i'ield per acre. $0 75 6 00 60 4 55 $0 90 $3 23 Will leave a clear profit of $2 33 Yield of Mr. M. Poesliel's vineyard, (Catawba): — Ypnr flftpr nl-mtino- ^'^^''^ '" ^'^"'^^ "^ vineyard. Price of Yeai aftei planting. ^^._^^^_ Gallons. wine sold. 1847, second 5-G 24 $2 00 1848, third .5-6 1000 2 00 1849, fourth 2 600 150 1850, fifth 2 350 125 1851, sixth 2h 450 1 75 1852, seventh 21 500 1 50 1853, eighth 2^ 350 2 00 1854, ninth 3J 800 2 00 1855, tenth 3J 50 150 1850, eleventh U 1000 2 25 1857, twelfth 6 4500 150 1858, thirteenth 6 1100 175 It must be taken into consideration, however, that at the time these vineyards were planted it was an entirely new branch of industry with us, and of course numerous errors and mistakes in the treatment of the vines were made. We had also the extremely cold winter of 1855-6, which destroyed almost the whole crop, killinj? the young wood. COST OF AN ACRE OF NORTON'S VIRGINIA. 1000 layers, at $25 per 100 $250 00 Trenching 75 00 Planting 25 00 1000 small stakes, 18 inches 4 00 1050 cedar posts, 8 cents 84 00 3000 laths, nails, etc 18 00 Labor, second year 50 00 Total $506 00 The third year the vineyard would probably bear enough to pay cost of attending, expenses, etc. GRAPE CULTURE. 93 Average yield per acre the fourth year, and all following: — 400 gallons per year, at $1 50 per gallon $000 00 Deduct from the cost of yearly labor $-30 00 Interest from capital GO GO $100 60 600 00 This will leave a clear profit of $499 40 Yield of an acre of Concord vines for market purposes : — 1000 vines, at least 10 lbs. per vine (probably 15 lbs.) lbs. 10,000 Lowest market price, at 10 cents per lb $1000 00 But as the Concord is two weeks earlier than the Catawba, much of the crop can be sold at much higher prices, as it has also a much finer bunch and berry. The whole number of acres planted in and around Hermann may be estimated at about two hundred and fifty acres. But people are planting more every year, and I boldly assert that in a few years the acres devoted to wine culture in our State will be counted by thou- sands instead of hundreds. And here let me add, that it has been a great drawback to the advancement of grape culture here, that our people are too much disposed to look to Ohio, and the doings of Ohio wine-growers, for examples. We have a different climate here, a different soil, and therefore our treatment must be different, and other varieties may be cultivated here. Let us eke out our own path, like energetic, thinking men. Let us try other varieties — not only those recommended by our Ohio brethren ; let us faithfully try all, and keep only such as are worthy of general culture. The fiat of Mr. Longworth against Norton's Virginia has done more to retard the progress in the culture of that invaluable grape than all other ob- stacles it met with ; and why ? Because we preferred seeing with other eyes to using our own ; and they were not fairly opened until Ohio wine-growers sent here to procure plants of the very grape Mr. Longworth had condemned. But the most serious obstacles are overcome. We have labored faithfully and hard. We have learned something, and are learning more everyday. A glorious future is before us ; let as labor with head, heart, and hand, and we may be sure of a rich reward. Let us be willing to listen to the advice of others ; but let us also always hold this principle in view, that experience is the mother of wisdom. 94 GRAPE CULTURE. VINE CULTURE.— BY WILLIAM HAAS. The preparation of land for a vineyard by vine-dressers is expensive, may cost about one hundred dollars per acre. The land of our vine- yard, containing eighteen acres, belonging to the Boonville Wine Com- pany, is turned over with plow and shovel to the depth of thirty inches, the top soil brought down and the subsoil up. Others prepare the land with deep plowing only, producing equally as good crops of grapes, it is said, as more costly prepared vineyards. The distance of the vines in the vineyards near Boonville is from four to six feet in the rows, and the rows sufficiently apart to cultivate with horse and plow between them, say five to six feet. Vineyards located on the side of hills ought to be })rotected by ter- racing tlie land against the washing of rain. Beginners in vine-dressing I would advise to consult "The Culture of the Grape, and Wine Making. By Robert Buchanan." This is a valuable treatise on the subject, giving the views of intelligent vine- dressers on all matters belonging thereto. Our State, Missouri, is very favorable for the culture of the grape- vine. But we must acknowledge that in past seasons, between good crops we had some severe disappointments, depending perhaps not so much on climate and soil as on the kind of grape here in culture — the Catawba. The Catawba is a very good wine grape, from which excellent wine is manufactured, equal in quality and flavor, and comparing favorably with the celebrated Rhine wine. The Catawba vine is a great bearer, but the grapes are apt to rot every year ; in wet seasons more, in dry seasons less. The vine-growers at Hermann have begun several years ago to cul- tivate the Virginia Seedling grape, said to be free from all rot, and is a good bearer. The wine mash from it is of a very dark color, and of good quality, preferred by some persons to the Catawba wine. We will not be found behind our Hermann friends in experimenting, and I have ordered from Messrs. Husmann & Co. fifty dollars' worth of Vir- ginia Seedling roots. Having been, in the fall of 1858, in Chicago, I noticed there with delight and surprise the crops of a small number of the Clinton grape- vine, planted on sandy and level ground, and trained to trellises. From the produce of perhaps not one-twentieth part of an acre three hundred and seventy- five bottles of very good wine was made. From another single grape-vine twenty gallons were made. The same vines THE LEAD REGION. 95 have been the next season, this last summer, in a like promising condi- tion ; but a severe frost in June destroyed the blossoms. The Clinton is a pure native grape-vine, very hardy, and the grapes not subject to mildew or rot. This variety of the grape-vine may be of immense value to the vine-growers of Missouri. It grows, flourishes, and produces so well on the sand flats of Lake Michigan, why may it not do so here on our Missouri river-bottom sand land ? Take the highest and driest localities for its cultivation, and we need not have any fear of success. Do not consider the occasional overflowing of the river too seriously ; a crop may thereby in perhaps twenty or thirty years once be destroyed, but the vines will not be damaged by it, and will come out next season renovated, and stronger to bear than before. I have engaged several thousand of the Clinton, intending to plant them according to the suggestions here made. THE LEAD REGION OF SOUTHWEST MISSOURI— GRANBY. History. — The riches and extent of the lead mines of Southwest Missouri (principally situated in Newton and Jasper Counties) render this, as a mining region, justly entitled to the reputation given it by Professor Swallow, State Geologist, that of being " one of the best lead regions in the world." These mines, as is generally the case, were originally discovered by the aborigines. The Osage Indians at sundry times brought a number of bars of lead to the trading house, at the village of Neosho, which had the appearance of having been recently molded, which led to the inquiry by the whites as to the discovery of the lead. The Indians, for a proper consideration, disclosed to the whites the location of the deposits, and the laud was immediately entered by Mr. Sheppard, as the agent of W. S. Moseley, of New Madrid, who with his uncle, George W. Moseley, Esq., had a trading house at Neosho. Though inexperienced in the business, they commenced mining on a limited scale and under many disadvantages in 1849, and smelted at first in what is known as the Drummond Furnace, upon which an improvement had been recently made by Hon. J. P. B. Gratiott, of Washington County, Missouri, which improvement consisted of placing the fire- house at the end, instead of at the side of the furnace. Upon this Drummond furnace about six thousand pigs of lead were smelted, up 96 THE LEAD REGION. to 1852, when a Scotch hearth furnace was erected by S. Dunklin, Esq., of Washington County, in connection with the Messrs. Moseley. About sixteen thousand pigs of lead were made at this furnace by the different parties who smelted there ; the ore being obtained principally from the Moseley mine, some from Centre Creek, and small quantities from Granby and Spurgeon Prairie. John Fitzgerald & Co. had a blast furnace on Turkey Creek, and the Messrs. Harkelrode one on Centre Creek, in operation about the same time. The last named were in Jasper County, and manufactured considerable quantities of lead. Moseley's furnace is ten miles southwest from Granby. The extensive diggings south from Granby were discovered in 1854 by William Foster, while digging a well for Madame Richardson ; pre- vious to this, however. Professor Swallow had discovered lead in the same vicinity. Owing to the want of capital to mine and smelt, and the very poor facilities for transportation, but little systematic mining or smelting was done until 1856, when Messrs, J. B. Dale & Co. and Booth, Ryan & Co. engaged men extensively in smelting, and offered better induce- ments to miners. The ore then ranged from $17 50 to $20 per one thousand pounds, and lead from six and a quarter to six and a half cents per pound. No rents were required from miners, and they had the full benefit of all the mineral furnished by them. This condition of things existed until June or July, 1857, when the mines covered by section six came into the possession of Messrs. Blow & Kennett, as the lessees of the Pacific Railroad Company, (as hereinafter specified,) since which time these mines have yielded both in quantity and quality an amount of mineral second to none in the country, in proportion to the number of mines opened or miners employed ; the business having increased from twenty-two pigs of lead per day to about three hundred, which has for some time past been the daily average product. The complete success of the mines at Granby is attributable to the very liberal course pursued by, and the discreet and judicious manage- ment of the present proprietors, Messrs. Blow & Kennett, who, by the investment of a large amount of capital in the introduction of the most approved machinery for mining and smelting, have concentrated almost the entire operations of the Southwest to their great center, on section six, infused new life and energy into all the adjacent country, and increased the population of the town of Granby from a cluster of log cabins to a town of several thousand population, and developed one of the most important mineral regions of this great mineral State. By an act of Congress, the Pacific Railroad Company received in 1852 a grant of land, embracing every alternate section for twelve THE LEAD REGION. 97 miles wide, along the Southwest Branch, amounting to nearly 1,040,000 acres. The company were entitled to dispose of any of these lands lying within twenty miles of the completed road. After the transfer was made and the prospective title vested in the railroad company, agents were at once sent out to protect the'lands. Granby proved to be located upon one section of this land. The squatters at this and upon other portions of the best mineral lands, in view of the immense mineral wealth that only required their labor and in- dustry to secure a sure and remunerative return, declared that the railroad company had no legal right to the land, and resisted every effort made on the part of the agents to control it. The agents demanded a rent; the squatters refused to pay it, and after consider- able trouble, the railroad company abandoned the lead region until 1857, when a lease was made to Messrs. Blow & Kennett for ten years, for a rent or tax of two dollars per thousand pounds for all mineral taken from the mines. At this time there were about 1000 miners at work, all of whom held claims jointly or severally, and worked them as they now do — selling their mineral to the smelters, who had erected furnaces in the vicinity for the purpose of reducing the ore to metal. Trading and selling claims was here practiced, as is the case in all mining dis- tricts; some claims being sold at prices ranging from $50 to $1000 per acre, according to the prospect. It is estimated that at that time, (January, 185'7,) 5,000,000 pounds of ore had been taken out by the squatters, smelted, and found its way to St. Louis and other mar- kets, yielding some 3,000,000 pounds of manufactured lead. Owing to the scarcity of money, and from a want of proper system and encouragement, the mines had not been worked as vigorously as they were subsequently. Those engaged in mining at Granby at that time were not all of that hard-working, industrious class whose hands supply their families with the comforts of life, but principally held their claims for speculation, and depended upon their sales of claims rather than upon their actual mining operations. As soon as it was known that Messrs. Blow & Kennett had received a lease of the mines, rumors of every conceivable character prejudicial to the lessees were spread abroad by these speculators, informing the squatters that they would be driven from their claims and lose the rights which they regarded as belonging to them, and deprived of all profits arising from the working of their lots or claims. In the midst of these in- flammatory rumors. Blow & Kennett appeared, with the evidence of their title, and called a meeting of the miners, before whom was sub- 7 98 THE LEAD REGIOX. mitted their evidences of several right, with the course they had de- cided upon for the future regulation and government of the mines. The proposition of Messrs. Blow & Kennett was, that the miners should continue upon their claims, and work them as heretofore, re- ceiving a fair price for their ore, which was to be governed by the market value of the metal, less two dollars per thousand pounds, which went to the Pacific Railroad Company, that being the amount specified in the lease between the parties. For the greater security of the miners, a basis of 400 pounds of lead was offered for every 1000 pounds of ore, when the quotation price in cash did not suit them. Up to the present time, (May, I860,) lead has never been called for, the cash price being satisfactory to them. These matters were understood as arranged, and Blow & Kennett returned to St. Louis for machinery and proceeded at once to erect their furnace, which was put in successful operation on the 18th of January, 1858, at a cost of $20,000. The furnace once in blast and the rules en- forced produced dissatisfaction in the minds of some of the miners, outsiders, and speculators. Factions of disaffected miners were con- sequently formed, and were led on by disappointed smelters, caucass- ing and calling meetings both private and public in reference to the rights of Blow & Kennett, the legality of which they questioned. Speeches of the most inflammatory character were made at those meetings of the miners, and the life of Peter E. Blow, the master- spirit of the mines, was frequently jeopardized by some of the most reckless and daring miners. Suits at law were found necessary to protect the rights of the lessees, and, after a severely contested action by the claimants and defendants, during fifteen months, it was finally decided by the Supreme Court of Missouri, in March, 1859, that the title was, according to the lease from the railroad company, vested in Blow & Kennett, and that they were the sole owners of the mines during the time specified in the lease. This decision settled the legal difficulties, and the conciliatory and generous course pursued by Blow & Kennett soon brought about a mutual good feeling between the proprietors and miners; and now the mines are in a prosperous condition, the miners receiving good prices for their ore, and the smoking furnaces, under the immediate control of Peter E. Blow, Esq., are turning out millions of pounds of this valuable metal, which finds its way to the markets, from New Orleans to Bos- ton, and lead bearing the brand of "Blow & Kennett" is receiving a world-wide reputation. mm I' I THE LEAD REGION. 99 The Furnace and its Operations. — The furnace (of the interior of which we present an accurate illustration) is in size 136 feet front by fifty deep, with additional buildings for engine, sawing wood for the furnaces, water-pumps, etc. Six "eyes" or Scotch hearths are in blast, at each of which two men are employed, called front and back hands. The former receives two dollars for reducing .3000 pounds of galena to metal, the latter one dollar and fifty cents ; which labor is performed in about five hours. They generally run only the 3000 pounds; but frequently they exceed that amount from 2000 to 3000 pounds, receiving the same compensation pro rata. The mineral yields, upon an average, sixty-five per cent. In addition to the above six eyes, the furnace has two "slag hearths," which, to- gether, represent eight furnaces in the engraving. The Scotch hearth is familiar to every one who has ever visited the mining region, hence a description thereof is deemed unnecessary. From personal observations we learned many facts relative to the manufacture of lead here. The furnace of Kennett & Blow makes twenty-five pigs of lead (weighing eighty-one pounds each) to the hearth, and frequently they exceed that amount. Three of the hearths about the middle of October, 1859, made fifty-six pigs each in seven hours, with the usual two hands to the hearth ; amounting to the sum of 12,608 pounds. The men who made this extraordi- nary run were Buis, Hancock, and Perringer, each making fifty-six pigs of lead, weighing eighty-one pounds to the pig; in all 168 pigs, from 11,400 pounds of mineral. Taking the Mineral from the Earth. — Galena or lead ore, at Granby, is found at a depth of from forty to sixty feet, according to the undulations of the surface. There are three strata, varying from eight to ten feet apart, which brings the lower lead or stratum about sixty feet below the surface. The "cap rock" is of a flinty formation, usually about eighteen inches thick, and is generally found above each stratum. Miniature railroads are in operation through the principal openings, by means of which the ore is conveyed to the main shafts, where it is raised by windlasses worked by hand or horse-power. After the mineral is raised to the surface it is picked over by hand, and all foreign matter separated therefrom by the use of picks. This operation is known by miners as "pick-a-weeing the mineral." It is then taken to the furnace, washed, and smelted. Four hands are employed in breaking and washing, turning off about 20,000 pounds of mineral per day, which is then weighed out in quantities to suit the convenience of the smelter — no fire or smelter, however, taking less than 3000 pounds. T.ie oi'e thus ready for the smelter, he pro- 100 THE LEAD REGION. ceeds to render it to metal, and usually finishes his day's work before noon, unless by overwork extra pigs are made. The yield of galena here is sixty-five per cent., depending, how- ever, upon the quality of the ore, and its freedom from foreign mat- ter. Scientific analysis has proven that there is eighty-two per cent, in the pure galena, but it is next to impossible to produce this quan- tity by the Scotch hearth. The following is a statement of the amount of mineral taken from the principal mines, during the dates given, and received at Blow & Kennett's Furnace : — Hopkins & Hersey, from April, 1858, to Nov. 1, 1859 910,000 lbs. .2,200,000 . 836,000 . 623,000 . 448,000 . 177,000 Culpepper & Hersey, from " " Frazer & Hersey, from February, " Braun, Denning & Co., from Jan. 1859, to Isaac Evans & Co., from Api-il, " Trent & Sons, from May, " 5,194,000 «' Hopkins, Hersey & Co., to whom we are indebted for valuable information, etc., have an extensive and profitable mine, which, during the eighteen months previous to the 1st November, 1859, produced 1,200,000 pounds of mineral. Joseph Hopkins, Esq., the senior partner, came from the lead region of Washington County, where several years' experience as a practical miner well qualified him for the extensive operations he has so successfully conducted at Granby. There are other mines equally rich ; and Culpepper & Hersey have taken out more galena than any other on the diggings. Frazer's mine has produced over 1,250,000 pounds of mineral. It was opened in the winter of 1859, but is now abandoned, having been exhausted. In the spring of 1858 the largest piece of mineral ever taken out at Granby, was raised here. It weighed 1700 pounds, and is now at the office of Blow & Kennett, St. Louis. There are between forty and fifty mines now being worked, which employ an average of 500 miners. The total amount of mineral received at the furnace, during the year 1858, was 2,806,881 pounds; and from January 1 to November 1, 1859, 4,753,652 pounds. The total amount of lead manufactured in 1858 was 26,225 pigs, of eighty-one pounds each. Lead made in 1859, up to November 1st, 35,741 pigs. GRANITES AND KAOLINS. 101 THE GRANITE AND KAOLINS OF SOUTHEAST MISSOURI. [The following article on this important subject was written expressly for this work by F. Woolford, Esq., Paton P.O., Bollinger County.] Kaolin that is sufficiently pure, and free from all foreign matter, and well adapted to the manufacture of true porcelain or hard china-ware, is but very seldom found anywhere in this country ; hence any State possessing it may look upon it as a rare and valuable mineral. Kaolin, however, of the best quality is found in township 33, range 8 east, upon section 36, six miles southwest from Paton P.O., and eight miles from the village of Bristol. This kaolin, upon thorough and practical investigation, has proved to be a very extensive deposit, and of a number one quality. It is found among the primitive rock, four- teen feet below the surface; it is six feet thick or more, of a good quality, very white and friable, meager to touch, well decomposed ; it occurs below the gneiss ; this, as well as the diorite below it, is inter- cepted and intersected by veins of feldspar, occurring sometimes in massive deposits and at other times in veins ; the decomposing action of the weather has gradually converted the gneiss into a red, and the diorite into a blackish-gray mass, very much resembling kaolin, but which could not be used on account of the color. The feldspar is, how- ever, thoroughly decomposed, and contains but little quartz, consisting chiefly of kaolin, somewhat plastic ; and is well adapted to the manu- facture of true porcelain and the finest and most substantial articles of iron stone-ware, with a proper proportion of quartz, sand, and feld- spar; also, by varying the mixture, the finest quality of ironstone china and other earthenwares can be produced. The next clay of importance is called "sandy stiff" or ball clay, by which latter name it is known by practical potters. This is nearly allied to the china clay, and possesses many of the same properties. It is unaltered in the porcelain kiln, becomes very white, and will admit from twenty-five to thirty per cent, of flint or silex. This clay is very plastic, and is the best of the kind I have discovered in Missouri. Its locality is in township 34, range 8 east, in the southwest corner of Perry County, and about twelve miles from Bristol. I believe it will be found in quantities sufficient for all practical purposes. The next clay of importance is the "pipe c?fl?/," found in section 13, townsMp 38, range 9 east. This contains from two to two and a half 102 GRANITES AND KAOLINS. per cent, of iron, and a small proportion of lime, but is more plastic than any of the clays, is a very good white, and admits fifty per cent. of flint or silex, (a very desirable quantity,) and can be advantage- ously combined with the other clays for the manufacture of all kinds of common earthenwares. A fine, white quartz sand, of good quality, and closely resembling the St. Genevieve sand, is found upon the last-named locality. This sand is well adapted to the manufacture of glass, and for glazing for pottery. A very extensive bed of Jire clay (twenty-five feet thick) is found at this same locality, well adapted to the manufacture of the best quality of fire brick, pottery, glass pots, etc. From this clay I am making from fifteen to twenty thousand gallons of hard-glazed stoneware per year, and various other articles. This deposit seems to be inex- liaustible. The mountain is based upon it for moj'e than a mile, and is capped with white sandstone. Near this same locality is another bed of kaolin, whicli is not suffi- ciently pure for manufacturing hard ironstone china, but would make very good common queensware. I have also discovered, in township 33, range 9 east, (one and a half miles from Paton,) another bed of very fine kaolin, well adapted to the manufacture of true porcelain and ironstone china; and combined with the pipe or ball clays, would produce every variety of earthenware. In the same vicinity is found a stratified chert of suitable quality for the erection of mills for grinding silex for pottery or glazes. In the fire clay above spoken of are found considerable quantities of cobalt of the purest quality, also ti7i and nickel. These minerals are found mixed with the fire clay upon the side of a hill two hundred and fifty feet in height, having been separated from the rock above, and in its descent mixed with the clay. This rock has the appearance of sienite, accompanied by feldspathic sand, and some portions of it resemble red granite. All the clays and other minerals above spoken of are found in close proximity to each other, and are easy of access. My opinion is, that if practical potters and capitalists could be convinced that all the wares named can be readily produced here, with wood as fuel, this would very soon become the great Staffordshire of America, and hundreds of thousands of dollars that are now sent to foreign countries annually for china, glass, and queensware, could be invested in the manufacture of better ware at lower prices in Missouri. We have here an abundance of wood for fuel, and beautiful, rapid streams, affording ample water power. The soil is well adapted to the THE GRAND RIVER COUNTRY. 103 growth of grains, grasses, and fruits, the climate pleasant and healthy, and the scenery very romantic and beautiful. I know of no better investment of capital, either for the advantage and profit of those en- gaging in the manufacture of porcelain, china, and earthenware, or for the good of the State at large, than the establishment here of exten- sive potteries. My prediction is, that the day is not far distant when these rare minerals will be better known and more fully appreciated, and T know of no more successful way to introduce them, than by a full description of them in your valuable State work. THE GRAND RIVER COUNTRY. The fertile valley drained by the Grand Raver comprises some of the richest counties in the State, and an area in extent (partly in Iowa and ])artly in Missouri) of nearly 12,000 square miles — larger than the kingdom of Belgium ; as large as Holland ; and enough territory to make the States of Yermont, New Hampshire, and Con- necticut. Its area in Missouri is about '7000 square miles or more, the balance, about 5000, lying in Southern Iowa. All the waters of this vast territory — an inchoate empire — find their outlet into the Missouri River at Brunswick, in Chariton County. The general features of the country are about the same throughout the thirteen counties drained by its waters, to wit : Chariton, Carroll, Linn, Sullivan, Livingston, Caldwell ; in part, Daviess, Dc Kalb, (lentry, Harrison, Mercer, Putnam, and part of Nodaway. Of that jiortion of the valley lying in low^a it is not in our province here to speak, except, by the way, that the lands are not inferior to those in Missouri, and that judicious enterprise, aided by perhaps a too specu- lative spirit, had enhanced their market value, previous to the panic of 1857, to even a higher rate than was attained in Missouri. But it is worth while here to say, that Missouri lands in this part of the State have sustained themselves in price, while Iowa lands of corre- sponding fertility and location have receded, in some cases, ruinously. It is strange that, with the well-known fertility of this country, and its acknowledged adaptability to the production of all the great staples of both the North and the South, its resources in coal and water-power, it should be so long neglected by the emigrant seeking a Western home. We have seen cotton growing in Sullivan County 104 THE GRAND RIVER COUNTRY. alongside of tobacco ; and in the same latitude hemp can be culti- vated with an abundant yield. The cotton in question was planted by a Georgian or North Carolinian, who would not give up old habits, and must pitch a small cotton crop at a venture. But the Kentucky and Virginia emigrant, the Tennessean and the Carolinian passed over these beautiful lands, (now become blooming fields, then prairies covered with rank, tall grass high enough to hide a man and horse,) to find the more densely-timbered country on the Platte, even before the Platte country was properly a part of Mis- souri. They preferred lauds that they must open for culture by the old familiar process of clearing and grubbing, to those already cleared and grubbed to their hands by a bountiful Providence. Then, how- ever, the Grand River country was under the ban of uuhealthiness. That great scourge of the Western squatter was supposed to be snuffed in every breeze that bowed the tall grass in summer, or swept the sheet of flame in its terrific splendor across the almost unbounded meadow of Nature's sowing. Even the gentle dews of heaven were laden with ague. All countries of great fertility of soil, where the vegetable products are unconsumed by stock and allowed to rot where they grow, are liable to miasmatic diseases. The very fertility of the valley even retarded its settlement. Few were willing to endure that ordeal which no one but the pioneer squatter can fully appreciate. The chills and fever — which, by-the-way, overcame Julius Ciesar when he was conquering Gaul — were as certain to come as his sod- corn; and Sappington's pills, Peruvian bark, and quinine were as much daily necessities as his bread and meat, or whisky bitters. Well do those early settlers, who are now living in comfortable coun- try mansions, with their broad acres lying around them, and their lowing herds and sleek mules browsing on blue-grass and clover, remember their numberless combats against this insidious disease. Well can they recount the diagnoses of blue nails, pains in the limbs, lassitude without labor — degenerating with many into confirmed lazi- ness — the cold sensations, the shakes, and, finally, the fever, which left them in a state of debility such as it is hard to conceive without an experience — a feeling of most depressing weakness — in which a man would feel a complete unfitness for all sublunary offices; like a wasp with a body of two hemispheres linked together by a narrow isthmus, his attenuated back bone. But pardon this digression ! The country was at first unhealthy, more so than the Platte country, because of its more rank prairie vegetation. But there were other causes which produced an unhealthi- THE GRAND KIVER COUNTRY. 105 ness. There were many swamps and lakes scattered tlirough the val- ley, which produced malaria. It is well, here, to say something iu reference to those lakes. The drainage of so large an extent of country rendered the low lands on the river and tributaries liable to overflow — and indeed the broad bottom lands which lined one side of every stream were often submerged. The breadth and extent of these bottoms, as they are now rearing themselves out of the reach of over- flows and being brought into cultivation, to some are even yet sur- prising; but the time has been when they were hardly more than adequate to their office of draining the vast territory watered by Grand River. The waters subsiding from the low lands, after an overflow, left usually a broad sheet of water on whatever depression there might have been in the bottom. To these shallow lakes the buffalo would repair in the summer, in vast herds, until they wore them broader and deeper, so that they became permanent. But as civilization advanced, that untiring adventurer, called, I believe, in France, the Christopher Columbus of the ti'uffie, the swine, was the necessary accompaniment of civilized man, as settlements approached this yet wild territory. The introduction of swine into this valley was of importance. They in their turn hunting their daily food, found to them a delicious escu- lent in the yonkapin, called nnckshaiv by the Indians, and in seasons of drought, such as have been known in this valley from 1854 to ISST, done much to undo the work of the wild buffalo. Indeed, the hogs have been the silent engineers who have reclaimed many of our bot- tom lands during the last thirty years, and have achieved what thou- sands, even millions of dollars, by human hands could not have accom- plished in this valley. Even before there was a permanent white settler in the valley of Grand River, they were driven into the bot- toms from the settlements in Howard County to fatten on the viast, and then in the dry seasons commenced rooting in the ponds after the yonkapin, by which they broke the crust of the lake and suffered the accumulated waters to drain through the porous alluvium or quick- sands. The Grand River country previous to about 1817 was inhabited by Indians. The lowas occupied the territory of what are now Grundy, Mercer, and Harrison Counties; their lands and hunting- grounds extended even down into the Counties of Livingston and Caldwell. Traces of these aboriginal inhabitants are yet abundantly visible. In Grundy County there is to be found the remains of an Iowa village of considerable dimensions. In the northern part of Livingston, the old inhabitants yet remember their wigwams and 106 THE GRAND RIVER COUNTRY. huts as tliey stood in 1833. Familiar stories are yet told in those counties of adventures and incidents in which they were parties. In North Grand River, James Weldon was an early settler; from him the Weldon, a branch of Grand River, which has its junc- tion with the Thompson, about three miles above Trenton in Grundy County, takes its name. He was familiarly known to the Indians as Jim, and his house was a sort of an exchange where a considerable trade was carried on between the Indians and whites. Dr. Thomp- son, a Virginia gentleman, was among the first settlers on the western fork of North Grand River, from which the stream takes its name. He was familiarly known among the lowas and Delawares as Doc, so that Jim and Doc. were among the Indians regarded as the big chiefs of the white settlers. In Sullivan County, John Baldridge was among the early settlers, and others we have not space here to men- tion. Honorable Jno. C. Griffin, who is now Circuit Attorney for the 11th Judicial District, reached Mercer County in 1835, of which county and Grundy, his present residence, he was the first representa- tive in the State Legislature. Farther down the river settlements were made much earlier. John Graves, Esq., still living, a family of Kirks, and others, were in Livingston at an early day. Elisha Henry Ford was in that county, but perhaps not as a resident, as early as 1825. His singular ad- venture of catching a panther asleep, and springing a young sapling over his back till he could tie his four legs together over it and bear him home, is rather too romantic to be seriously related here, but is worth mentioning as a traditionary incident. The tribe of Indians from which our State and our magnificent river took its name, the Missouri, were inhabitants of the lower part of the valley, and dwelt in the valley of Grand and Chariton Rivers. It was in what is now Chariton County that their last battle was fought with the whites, probably as early as 1810. The vestiges of this battle-field are yet, it is said, visible. They were there exterm- inated. The Counties of Carroll, Caldwell, De Kalb, and Daviess were settled principally with what emigration fell back from the Platte country. From the time of the acquisition of the territory from France, civilization seems to have radiated from two or three common centers, i.e. in North Missouri settlers radiated at first from St. Charles; next, Loutre Island furnished the nucleus; and finally Coop- er's Fort and Boonslick were the radius from which adventurous civilization shone upon the eastern part of the Grand River valley ; while from the Platte settlements it radiated on the western branch THE GRAND RIVER COUNTRY. 107 of this valley. The Counties of Harrison, Gentry, and Nodaway are more recently settled than any on Grand lliveV, and were all settled since 1840. Putnam perhaps should be excepted, which has been erected in its present form, at least into a county, since 1850. In 1838 the Mormons Diade their stronghold at Far West, in Da- viess County, after having been dislodged from De Witt, in Carroll County. The celebrated Mormon war of that year and its incidents are yet remembered by the early settlers, and among the earliest of whom is Mr. Perriston, Sen., who resides yet on the farm he settled, on the west fork of Grand River, as early as 1831. Enough of this brief glance at the early history of the Grand River valley. The physical conformation of the country is homo- geneous throughout its whole extent. It is a succession of flat meadows fringed with rich timber along the margin of the long, winding streams, these meadows themselves fringing the elevated table-land or ridges of rich, well- watered and well-drained prai- ries. The table-lands themselves conform to the sinuosities of the streams, which, by-the-way, are of great length usually, as most of the tributaries of the rivers, like their parent stream, have their sources on the southern inclination of the summit which divides the waters of the Missouri and Des Moines Rivers, at perhaps an eleva- tion of about twelve hundred feet above the level of the Missouri River, at Brunswick. We must not omit here to mention that many of these ridges turn northwardly on a direct line into the heart of Iowa, and that they furnish as eligible location for cheaply con- structed railways, with all the materials at hand, (except the iron,) as any country in America. There is an abundance of cheap water-power afforded by Grand River and its tributaries, both in Iowa and Missouri. - Cain's Mill in Harrison ; Shaffer's in Mercer; and Kelsey's, Cooley's, and others in the same county ; Graham's and McDonald's in Grundy ; Scott's in Daviess; Waldrip's, Hoy and Chadwick's at Utica; and, finally, the Redford Rapids, in Livingston County, are a few which have sprung up in the past few years, and for manufacturing furnish every advan- tage. These were in an unsettled, almost unknown wilderness at the time Wetmore wrote his Gazetteer. The Rapids at Bedford, where the volume of water is such as to offer no very serious impediment to navigation, which has for the past three years been successfully accom- plished, will, at some future time, with properly applied energy and capital, furnish the seat for large manufacturing establishments unex- celled in any of the States. 108 THE GRAND EIVER COUNTRY. ^ Underlying? all this vast territory are valuable beds of bituminous coal, in veins of from six inches to three feet. These veins crop out at Bedford and above. The lower and more valuable veins are beneath a good roof of shale and slate. Vast ledges and cliffs of both lime and sandstone are found in almost every neighborhood, though not so widely disseminated as to make them conveniently accessible to every settler. In this article we have not spoken particularly of the coal forma- tions in Chariton County, because we reserve that subject for our article on that county alone, which will be found in its proper place in this volume. Very few of those counties above enumerated, except Chariton and Carroll, have had a corporate existence longer than twenty years. Chariton, which was organized in 1831, just after Missouri entered the Union, extended from the Missouri River to the Iowa line ; Car- roll, which was organized a year or two later, had formerly been a part of Ray, which then comprised all the territory west of Chariton County to Platte, and from the Missouri River to Iowa. The aggre- gate taxable property now in the thirteen counties is not less than twenty-five millions. They contain about twenty thousand voters, and perhaps a population, slave and white, of over one hundred and fifty thousand souls. In area the Grand River country is about one- fifth of the State of Missouri, and the entire valley in Iowa and Mis- souri is about one-hundredth part of the territory acquired from France. The timber most abundant in this valley are the various kinds of oak, of which there are one or two varieties not known in most of the Southern States. Some four or five varieties of hickory, pecan, in the southern part of it ; Cottonwood, linn, in some locations ; sugar- tree and maple, ash, honey locust, water birch, and walnut of great size, of which the lumber is principally made for building. The oak timber has proved of great value, as from it are now being built at the Brunswick ship-yards hulls for steamboats which have begun to acquire a high reputation. The forks and knots of the walnut have afforded for several years quite a trade for some enterprising men, who hew them in blocks of convenient size and ship them to Cincinnati; and some of them are returned, no doubt, to the country where they grew, in the shape of furniture. The Grand River country produces all the timber of the Southern States except pine, cedar, poplar, and larch. The poplar does not grow in such high latitudes, and the . larch is not known west of Illinois. 109 GEOLOGY. MINERAL AND AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES OF MISSOURI. BY G. C. SWALLOW, STATE GEOLOGIST. In presenting a systematic view of the Mineral and Agricultural resources of our State, it will be necessary to give a brief exhibit of the Geology as developed by the researches of the Geological Survey. Stratifikd Rocks. So far as observed, the stratified rocks of Missouri belong to the following systems: — System I. — Quatcniary. System II. — Tertiary. System III. — Cretaceous. System IV. — Carboniferous. System V. — Devonian. System VI. — Silurian. SYSTEM I, QUATERNARY. Previous to the commencement of the Geological Survey of Mis- souri but little effort had been made to trace out and classify the various deposits of the Quaternary System. This fact and the vast importance of these formations, both in our scientific and in our economical geology, have led us to undertake a careful investigation of this system as developed in our State. The results of our early investigations were given in the Second Annual Report of the Mis- souri Survey in 1854. This paper will include the facts there recorded, and those observed in our subsequent examinations, that it may present a full view of the present state of our knowledge upon this subject. When it is remembered that these formations contain the entire geological record of all the cycles from the end of the Tertiary period to the present time, and that their economical value is greater than that of all the other formations combined, I shall need no apology for entering somewhat into details in recording the phenomena they pre- sent. The Q,uaternary System comprises the drift and all the deposits above it — all the strata included in the alluvion and diluvion of former authors. There are, within this period, four distinct and well- 110 GEOLOGY. marked Formations in this State, whicli we have thus named iu tbe order of their stratigraphical position.* F. a.— Alluvium. F. c— Bluff. F. 1).— Bottom Prairie. F. d.— Drift. All of the latest deposits, all that have been formed since the present order of things commenced upon our Continent, are included in — F. a. — Alluvium. All the deposits observed in the State, belonging to this formation, are : — 1st. Soils. ifh. Vegetable Mould or Humus. M. Pebbles and Sand. 5th. Bog Iron Ore. 3d. Clays. Gth. Calcareous Tufa. Ifh. StalactUes and Stalagmites. 1st. Soils are a well-known mixture of various comminuted mineral substances, combined and mingled with decayed vegetable and animal remains, all comprising those ingredients peculiarly adapted to the nourishment of the vegetable kingdom. They are formed by the action of water, particularly in the form of rain and dews, cold, heat and other atmospheric influences, together with the co-operation of the vegetable and animal kingdoms. The process by which soils are formed is one of the most beautiful and wonderful in nature. By a careful examination of what is transpiring in this great laboratory of nature, we may easily detect that process. If a rock, fresh from the quarry, be exposed, its sur- face will soon present a dull, earthy appearance, which is caused by a disintegration of its surface by atmospheric influences. Fine par- ticles have been separated from the mass, and this meager coating of decomposing mineral matter will soon become the resting-place of numerous microscopic germs, which will be developed into a minute growth of lichens. These in turn will decay and add their remains to the pulverized particles, and prepare them to sustain a more vigorous growth of herbs, and to become the abode of the small insects and worms, which will burrow in their recesses, feed upon the increasing vegetation, and swell the mass both by their mechan- ical agency and by adding their exuviae to the accumulating soil. Larger plants and animals will accelerate the process by their more powerful agencies and by tiie greater amount contributed by their * See the general section of the rocks of Missouri in the Second Annual Report. GEOLOGY. Ill decaying remains. Thus by almost imperceptible increments our rich deep soils have been accumulated. But the soils of Missouri are made up by the mingling of organic matter with the comminuted marls, clays, and sands of the quater- nary deposits which cover all parts of the State, with a vast abund- ance of the very best materials for their rapid formation. Hence the soils of the State are very deep and wonderfully productive, save in those limited localities where the materials of the quaternary strata are unusually coarse or entirely wanting. But I shall speak more particularly of the soils, while treating of the rocks from which they were formed. 2d. Pebbles and Sand. — Many of our streams abound in water- worn pebbles, which constitute their beds, and form bars along their margins and across their channels. These pebbles were derived from the drift and the harder portions of the adjacent rocks. They vary in size according to the transporting power of the streams in which they are found. The economical value of these pebbles for roads and streets, and the obstruction they often present to navigation, as in the Osage, give them unusual importance in our Geology. The Osage, Gasco- nade, Niangua, Marais des Cygnes, Sac and Spring Rivers of the South, and the Salt, South, North, Fabius, and Chariton of the North, all furnish good and abundant examples of these deposits, which have been formed by the action of those streams. Sand is the most abundant material in the alluvial bottoms of the great rivers in the State. Vast quantities of it are constantly borne along by the irresistible current of the Missouri. Its whirl- ing, rolling, turbulent waters form of it extensive bars in incredibly short periods, which they again wear away often still more rapidly than they were formed. These sand-bars, so common in this stream, frequently extend along its bed several miles, with a breadth varying from one to five or six furlongs, and limited in thickness only by the depth of the water. A slight fall in the river leaves these vast sand-beds dry, when their surfaces are soon covered by a growth of weeds, interspersed with young willows and Cottonwood.* The fickle stream, however, sel- dom leaves these sand-beds to a long repose, but returns to its old channel by a rapid removal of their loose materials, * The sand of the ^Missouri, usually grayish brown and fine grained, con- tains a considerable quantity of lime and clay and vegetable matter, which render it very productive. 112 GEOLOGY. A disaster to the ill-fated steamer Timour, No. 2, presents a good illustration of the rapidity with which the Missouri forms and destroys these extensive deposits of sand. In the fall of 1853 this steamer ran upon a sand-bar, and was soon left high and dry some seventy- five or one hundred yards from the water, with a fair prospect of leaving her timbers to decay in the young forest of willows and Cot- tonwood which would soon spring up around her. But the current changed and cut its way through the sandy stratum upon which the boat rested, and floated her away uninjured to the great City of the West. And all this transpired in a few weeks. As these sand-bars are cut away, their perpendicular faces present beautiful illustrations of their stratification, which is usually very irregular and complicated, as might be expected from the changeable character of the current. But water is not the only agent engaged in producing the irre- gular stratification of the sand-bars of the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers. When these sand-beds become dry by exposure, the winds easily transport and rearrange their light and fine materials. Such quantities are moved by high winds, that the entire channels of the rivers are obscured by the dense clouds of moving sand. The strati- fication of the sand-beds thus formed is very interesting and com- plicated, and aids us in explaining some examples of stratification observed in the older rocks. At high stages of water, both the Missouri and Mississippi over- flow their low bottoms, and leave deposits of a grayish-brown or a grayish-yellow sand similar to that in the sand-bars mentioned above. The thickness of these beds depends upon the height and continuance of the overflowing waters, varying from a mere perceptible stratum to several feet. That from the flood of 1844 is very conspicuous throughout the length of the Missouri bottom. It is sometimes six or eight feet thick, particularly in low bottoms, so heavily timbered as to obstruct the current. At the lower end of Waconda Prairie this deposit is very evenly distributed over its surface ; but it increases in thickness as the prairie descends to the low timbered bottom, lower down the stream, where it is six or seven feet, and its surface becomes very irregular, like the surface of a lake when disturbed by a high wind or a chopped sea. The lower extremity of Waconda Prairie and the Cottonwood bottom below finely illustrates these phenomena. The small timber is a young growth of cottonwood, which has sprung up since 1844, GEOLOGY. 113 and the larger trees just below is the okler growth, which obstructed the waters flowing through the bottom, and thus caused the more abundant and irregular deposit there observed. Similar phenomena are exhibited in the bottoms opposite St. Charles and Jefferson City, and in many other places on the Missouri, and at several localities in New Madrid and Pemiscot Counties on the Mississippi. These sands were doubtless derived from those extensive sandstone formations on the Platte* and other tributaries of the Missouri. It is nearly all silex, but contains enough calcareous and argillaceous matter to render it fertile, as is abundantly proved by the growth of weeds and willows, cottonwood and sycamores, which immediately spring up on these sand-bars whenever they are exposed above the water. There are many points on the Missouri, as in the bottom opposite St. Charles, where a thrifty growth of young timber may be seen on the sand deposits of 1844. 3d. Clays. — These are dark, bluish-gray, argillaceous strata, ren- dered more or less impure by fine silicious, calcareous, and decom- posed organic matter. When the floods of the Mississippi and the Missouri subside, the lagoons, sloughs, and lakes are left full of tur- bid water. The coarser materials soon settle into a stratum of sand, but the finer particles more gradually subside and form the silico-cal- careous clays of their alluvial bottoms. Thus, after each flood new strata of sand and clay are deposited until the lakes and sloughs are silted up. The thickness of each stratum of sand depends upon the height and continuation of the floods, but that of the clay-beds is governed more by the time between the overflows, and is very variable, ranging from the tenth of an inch to ten feet. The argillaceous materials which formed them were doubtless derived from the cretaceous and tertiary clays of the Upper Missouri and its tributaries, whence, as from the Mauvaises Terres, such vast quantities of a similar material have been removed by denudation. 4th. Vegetable Mould or Humus is a dark-brown or black deposit of decayed vegetable matter, containing variable, though small, quan- tities of fine silicious and argillaceous particles. When wet it is very soft and plastic, and quite black ; but when dry, it separates into angular cuboidal fragments, which readily crumble into a dark-brown, very light, impalpable powder. In these beds of almost homogeneous * The Platte is a rapid stream, and brings down large quantities of sand, though its waters are not so turbid as thosf of the Missouri, either above or below their junction. 114 GEOLOGY. humus, leaves and stems of trees are sometimes found in a tolerable state of preservation. The process by which these strata of humus are deposited is very- obvious. When the lakes and sloughs of these bottoms are so far filled up as to sustain vegetable life, the decay of the annual growth, and of the foreign matter which falls or floats into these waters, forms a stratum of humus at the bottom, over the beds of clay and sand previously deposited by the floods and still waters. Another over- flow gives another succession of sand and clay, and the succeeding annual crop of vegetable matter another stratum of humus. These changes have often continued until several scries of these deposits were formed. But when the bottoms of those bodies of water had been thus raised so high above the river that the floods less frequently flowed into them, the deposits of sand diminished, and the long, quiet intervals favored the deposition of clay and humus. In time, these shallow waters became mere marshes where a rank vegetation rapidly formed thick beds of vegetable mould for the sup- port of the magnificent forests which now occupy the sites of those former lakes and sloughs. Such is the process by which the succession of sands, clays, and humus in those alluvial bottoms has been deposited; whence it is easy to see why the sands are most abundant at the bottom, when the waters from the river floods would more frequently overflow them; the clays in the middle, when the waters would be rarely disturbed by overflows ; and the humus or vegetable mould at the top, when a rank vegetation prevailed and inundations were rare. Sections 3 and 4 of our 2d Annual Report are good illustrations of the manner in which these strata of sand, clay, and vegetable mould succeed each other in the alluvial bottoms of our two great rivers. Such is the structure of the vast alluvial plains bordering the Mis- souri and Mississippi Rivers. The bottom of the former stream, extending from the Iowa line to its mouth, is about TOO miles long and five broad, presenting an area of 3500 square miles. More than one-half of this, say 2000 square miles, may be set down as alluvium, while the river, bottom prairies, and lakes occupy the remainder. On the Missouri side of the Mississippi bottom there are about 4300 square miles of alluvial bottom of a similar character. Thus the allu- vial bottoms of our two great rivers alone give more than 4,000,000 acres of land based upon these alluvial strata of sands, clays, marls, and humus. And, besides, the quantity is constantly increasing by the silting up of the sloughs and lakes as above described. GEOLOGY. 115 The soil formed upon these alluvial beds is deep, light, and rich almost beyond comparison, as is abundantly proved by the immense burden of timber growing upon it, and by the unparalleled crops of hemp, tobacco, and corn harvested from its cultivated fields. 5th. Bog-Iron Ore is deposited from several chalybeate springs. Large quantities of the hydrated oxide have accumulated near a fine spring some two miles west of Osceola, and a small amount from another near Sharpsburg, in Marion County. But the most import- ant deposits of bog-iron are situated in the cypress swamps and other low, wet portions of Southeastern Missouri. Extensive beds were traced out in Lake St. John, extending from the " Stake Glades" in Scott County to the " Iron Ore Ford" in New Madrid. Several large beds were observed in the southwestern part of Dunklin County, and two in the western part of Mississippi. These beds vary in thickness from one or two inches to two feet ; while some of them are several miles in length. The quality of the ore is good, and the quantity very great, almost fabulous. 6th. Calcareous Tufa has been found in several places in the State. In a ravine south of Parkville is a mass, in which many specimens of moss are well preserved, and another similar deposit was observed under the bluffs near Bryce's Spring, on the Niangua. Tth. Stalactites and Stalagmites are abundant in some parts of the State. Many beautiful specimens were observed in the extensive caves of Boone, Camden, and Greene Counties. Such are the alluvial deposits, so far as observed, in Missouri. Future investigations may bring to light others belonging to this formation. Range and Thickness. — Our alluvium is, as a matter of course, diffused throughout the entire State, as it comprises all the soils and other deposits now forming. It is, however, much more abundant in the valleys of our great streams. The thickness is often thirty or forty feet, though generally much less. r. b. — Bottom Prairie. This important formation in many respects resembles that of the alluvial bottoms above described, with which it has usually been con- founded by geologists, though agriculturists have made a distinc- tion. There are, however, important differences : — 1st. The stratification in the prairie is much more uniform, and more regularly extended over wide areas. 116 GEOLOGY. 2cl. In tlie prairie formation the. strata are not so distinct, nor are they so purely silicious or argillaceous. 3d. It was evidently formed by agencies operating over the entire bottoms, whose action was more uniform and quiet, and continued uninterrupted through longer periods than those now forming the alluvial deposits in the same bottoms. 4th. Where these two formations meet one can usually trace out the line of demarkation. Either the strata of the prairie pass under those of the alluvium or are cut off and replaced by them. Instances of both of these changes may be observed at the lower end of Wa- conda Prairie, and other places on the Missouri. 5th. The alluvial bottom is continually increased at the expense of the prairie, through the action of the rivers. The current is con- stantly cutting away the prairie, forming new channels and filling up the old ones with drift and silt. This explains the fact that the strata of the prairie are frequently cut off, and others quite different set in, as we pass from it to the timbered bottoms. At high stages of water the lower portions of the prairie are overflowed, and deposits of sand are left on its surface which are soon covered with willows, sycamores, or cottonwood, as on the lower end of Waconda Prairie, where a young growth of cottonwood has sprung up on the deposits from the flood of 1844. 6th. No causes now in operation could, at the present level of the country, produce a formation of such extent and uniform structure as the bottom prairies.* Such are some of the facts which have convinced me that this is an older formation, and one entirely distinct from the alluvial bot- toms. Several facts show it to be distinct from and newer than the Bluff or Loess. Its coiuposition, structure, and position are entirely different, and in many places the former rests non-conformably upon the latter, as at St. Joseph, and at the mouth of the Big Nemaha. Tills formation, like the last, is made up of sands, clays, and vege- table mould variously intcrstratified. The Sand in the upper part is fine and yellowish brown, like that of the Missouri sand-bars, but the lower beds are more purely silicious. The Clays are usually dark, bluish brown, and marly, with more or less sand and humus intermingled. * Some of the bottom prairies of Ihe Missouri are at least thirty miles long, and from ten to twenty broad, as Ihe IIuppan-Kuty of Nicollett, above tlie mouth of the Sioux River, and the Waconda, in Carroll County. And these are proba- bly only fragments of one which was once continuous from the former to the mouth of the Missouri. GEOLOGY. 117 The Humus or Vegetable Mould has a hrowuish-black color ; when wet, it is somewhat plastic and slightly tenacious; when dry, brittle, breaks into angular fragments, and can be easily reduced to an impal- pable powder. These beds of humus were evidently formed by the growth and decay of plants in the localities where they are found. Range and Thickness. — This formation is confined to the bottoms of the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers, and is more abundant and better characterized on the former. The bottom prairie is about half as extensive as the alluvial bottoms above described, is made up of the same materials, and sustains a soil of equal fertility. This estimate will give us about two million acres of these vastly rich savannas, all prepared by Nature for the plow. Their agricultural capacities are scarcely inferior to any in the world, as is abundantly demonstrated by the mineral contents of the strata and the products of the numerous flourishing farms located upon them. The Organic Remains of the bottom prairie are numerous and well preserved. All the shells of the bluft*, save the Helicini occidla, have been found in it; but no remains of the elephant or mastodon have yet been detected. We have collected many species of trees, shrubs, and vines from these beds. The character and position of the strata forming the bottom prairie show most conclusively that the level of the country, when they were deposited, was somewhat difiFerent from its present condition, that bodies of almost still water covered the present valleys of our great rivers, and that the formation was coextensive with these river bottoms. Subsequently such a change of level occurred as gave the present rapid current to the waters passing through these valleys. The rapid waters cut channels in their soft beds, and left broad, level areas dry and sub- ject to vegetable life. These "bottom prairies" extended from the mouth of the Sioux to the Mississippi, and probably from the St. Peter's to the Arkansas. Since that period the rivers have been ever busy, wearing away the bottom prairie and depositing the alluvial bottom above described, until we have but few remnants, such as the Waconda and IIuppan-Kuty, of the vast bottom prairie, which occu- pied these great valleys. Like the Indians of the Western prairies, they are fast " passing away." These beautiful savannas are universally called ''Bottom Prairie;" and I have proposed that as the geological name of the interesting formation on which they rest. The scenery of the alluvial bottom and the bottom prairie is well represented in section 2 and plate 12 of the Second Geological Report. 118 GEOLOGY. F. c— Bluff. This formation rests upon the drift, as is obvious wherever the two formations are well developed. In many places, as at St. Joseph and at the mouth of the Big Nemaha, it is seen dipping beneath the beds of the bottom prairie. While the bluff formation rests upon the highest ridges and river bluffs, and descends along their slopes to the lowest valleys, the bottom prairie is confined to the river bottoms, and was deposited in horizontal beds between the bluflFs. Thus, while the bottom i)rairie occupies a higher geological horizon, the bluff is usually several hundred feet above it in the topographical. This formation, when well developed, usually presents a fine, pulver- ulent, obsoletely stratified mass of light, grayish-buff, silicious, and slightly-indurated marl. Its color is usually variegated with deeper brown stains of oxide of iron. The bluff above St. Joseph exhibits an exposure of it one hundred and forty feet thick, presenting its usual characteristic features. When but sparingly developed it generally becomes more argilla- ceous, and assumes a deeper brown or red color; as on the railroad south of Palmyra, where it is a dark, brick red, tinged with purple. In some places the ferruginous and calcareous matter increases, and we find concretions of marl and ironstone, either disseminated through the mass or arranged in horizontal belts. At other places it has more arenaceous matter, and is much more decidedly stratified, as at a point one mile above Wellington, and in the bluff at St. Joseph. These are the only places seen where the stratification assumed the irregular appearance so often presented by sand-bars. It is barely pos- sible that this stratified sand is a portion of Altered Drift ; but the beds between it and the drift, having the usual appearance of the bluff, militates against such a supposition. The bluff formation is often penetrated by numerous tubes or cylin- ders about the size or thickness of pipe-stems, some larger and others smaller. They are composed of clay, carbonate of lime, and oxide of iron, being argillo-calcareous oxide of iron, or calcareous clay iron- stone. But it is not so easy to say how they were formed. Several facts may aid us in determining this matter. These tubes penetrate the formation in all directions, and are most abundant near the surface, though some extend to the depth of twenty feet. The space for some half inch around each tube, more or less, according to its size, is of a much lighter color; as if the coloring matter (oxide of iron) had been extracted. The same appearances were observed around the green and dry roots GEOLOGY. 119 of the white oak, (quercus alba,) which had penetrated the same form- ation. Qualitative analyses proved these same roots to contain a large portion of oxide of iron. And besides, oak-wood always contains a large portion of that metal and manganese. An analyses of its ashes, by Saussiire, gave two and a quarter per cent, of the oxides of those metals; while the analysis of "oak-wood mould," or the decayed w-ood, by the same chemist, gave fourteen per cent, of the same oxides. It is thus made manifest that oak-wood contains iron, which must have been absorbed through the roots from the earth. This fact readily explains the loss of the iron from the marl around the roots and around the tubes, provided they M'ere once oak-roots. But the question natur- ally arises, how these roots became tubular ? But they were seen in the various stages of decay, and the woody fibers of some had disappeared and left the bark, in the form of a tube, still retaining its organic struc- ture, though strongly impregnated with the oxide of iron and alumi- num and carbonate of lime. It may also be objected that the roots of the oak do not penetrate to such depths; but, in the language of a poet and a botanist: — "iEsculus in primis ; quae quantum vertici ad auras, ^Etheras, tantum radice in Tartara tendit." These facts have led to the conclusion that these tubes of calcareous clay and ironstone are the decayed roots of oaks and other plants. In some localities small holes, also, without any tubes of different material, penetrate this formation in great numbers, and are probably caused by similar agencies. These phenomena have been thus minutely investigated, not merely as interesting scientific facts, but also as one of the most useful agri- cultural features of this pre-eminently valuable formation ; for upon it, and sustained by its absolutely inexhaustible fertilizing resources, rest the very best farms of the Mississippi and Missouri valleys. These tubes and holes also constitute the most thorough sijdem of drainage imaginable. Range and Thickness. — So far as my own observations extend, this formation caps all the bluffs of the Missouri, from Council Bluffs to its mouth, and those of the Mississippi, from the mouth of the Des Moines to that of the Ohio, and forms the upper stratum beneath the soil of all the high lands, both timber and prairie, of all the counties north of the Osage and Missouri, and also St. Louis, and the other Mississippi counties on the south. According to Mr. Meek, its western or northwestern limit is prob- ably a few miles below Fort Pierre; Lyell traces a smilar formation up 120 GEOLOGY. the Ohio and farther down the Mississippi ; Dr. Owen mentions its existence on the Wabash River; Dr. G. G. Shumard saw a similar deposit on Red River ; Major Hawn traces this formation far up the tributaries of the Platte and Arkansas in Western Kansas, toward the golden sands of the Eastern Cordilleras. The identity of the deposits at Council Bluffs, at St. Joseph, at Lex- ington, at Boonville, at Hannibal, at St. Louis, and at Cape Girardeau is placed beyond all doubt by the following facts : — 1st. They occupy the same geological position. 2d. They have the same topographical position on the tops of the bluffs. 3d. They present the same lithological and chemical characters. 4th. Nearly all the fossils are found at all those places, save perhaps the last. 5th. These localities are connected by an unbroken continuity of the same deposit. Its greatest development in this State is in the counties on the Mis- souri, from the Iowa line to Boonville; but thence to St. Louis it is not so thick. In some places it is two hundred feet thick. At St. Joseph it is one hundred and forty ; at Boonville one hundred ; and at St. Louis, in St. George's Quarry, and the Big Mound, it is about fifty feet; while its greatest thickness observed in Marion County was only thirty. Organic Remains. — The fossils of the Bluff are very numerous and interesting. We have collected from it, of the Mammalia, two teeth of the Mastodon giganteus, Elephas primigenius ; the bones of a Bison; the jaw-bone of the Castor fiber Americana ; the molar of a Euminant; and the incisor of a Rodent. Of the Mollusca, seventeen species of the genus Helix, eight Limnea, eight Physa, three Pupa, four Planorhis, six Succinea, and one each of the genera Valvata, Amnicola, Helicina, and Cyclas, besides some others not determined. These lacustrine, Jluviatile, amphibious, and land species indicate a deposit formed in a fresh-water lake, surrounded by land and fed by rivers. These facts carry back the mind to a time when a large portion of this great valley was covered by a vast lake, into which, from the surrounding land, flowed various rivers and smaller streams. We see the waters peopled with numerous mollusks; the industrious beaver building his habitation ; the nimble squirrel, the fleet deer, the sedate elephant, and huge mastodon, lords of the soil. There must have been land to sustain the elephant, and mastodon, and helices; fresh water and laud for the beaver ; and fresh water for the Cyclaa and Limneas. GEOLOGY. 121 Some have supposed this formation was deposited by the rivers when the waters were at a higher stage. If it was deposited by the rivers, their waters were high enough to cover nearly all of this State and a large part of the adjoining States and Territories, and (juiet enough to be the abode of Limneas and to be called a lake. I have proposed the title Bluff Formation for this deposit, as it forms a large portion of, and gives the peculiar characters to the bluffs so conspicuous and unique in the scenery about Council BlutTs and other portions of the Missouri valley, and as it forms the tops of the bluffs wherever it is developed. Loess, the name of a similar formation on the Rhine, has been given to this by some geologists. But this would imply that these two formations are identical, when they may or may not be, so far as any proof has been given. It is true they are both fresh-water deposits, both have recent shells of the same genera, and in litholog- ical and chemical characters they are somewhat similar. But there are other deposits, whose Fauna and lithological and chemical prop- erties are quite similar to the Bluff, and some of them more so, and yet they are more recent. There is just as much evidence of the identity of the Loess and the Bottom Prairie, as there is of the Loess and the Bluff; and still we know the Bluff was formed long before the Bottom Prairie, and under a very different condition of this part of the continent. It may also be stated that there is just as much evidence of the identity of the Bluff and the Bottom Prairie, as of the Bluff and Loess; and yet the Bluff and Bottom Prairie are not identical. The fossils of all three formations only prove they belong to the Quaternary Sys- tem, or were formed since some of the present Fauna came into being. There is, indeed, but little probability that two such vast fresh- water lakes existed at the same time on the two continents, with the ocean rolling between. But it would seem impossibe to identify formations so recent on separate continents, whose recent Faunas are so widely different; as the deposits on these continents, though contemporaneous, would of necessity present Faunas very distinct. Hence if we make fossils our only guide in identifying them, it will be impossible to distin- guish deposits formed since the present genera of animals and plants came into existence ; and we should be compelled to omit all distinc- tions between formations of the recent period and to make all of our recent deposits identical with each other, and with all belonging to the same system in Europe and Asia; and this would deprive us of 122 GEOLOGY. distinctions recognized in Scientific, and almost indispensable in Economical Geology. I have been thns minute in my examinations of the Bluff, the Bot- tom Prairie, and the alluvial formations, both on account of their vast importance to our agricultural interests and the comparatively little attention geologists have given to them. It is to this forma- tion that the central Mississippi and Southern Missouri valleys owe their pre-eminence in agriculture. The most desirable lands of Iowa, Missouri, Western Illinois, Kansas, and Nebraska, all rest upon the fine silicious marls of the bluff formation. Where it is best developed in Western Missouri, the soil is inferior to none in the country. The scenery presented by the bluff formation is at once unique and beautiful, and gives character to nearly all the best landscapes on the Lower Missouri. Plates I. and II. of the Missouri Reports give characteristic views of the scenery where this formation is well developed. F. d.— Drift. This formation lies directly beneath the bluff, and rests upon the various members of the paleozoic series as they successively come to the surface of that system. In this formation there appear to be three distinct deposits : — 1st. What might be called an Altered Drift frequently appears in the banks of the Missouri River, as at the mouth of the Kansas, and in the Bottom Prairie below Brunswick, and at Waconda Prairie, Section 2, No. 4, These strata of sand and pebbles appear to be the finer materials of the drift, removed and rearranged by aqueous agencies subsequent to the drift period and prior to the formation of the bluff. The pebbles are from all the varieties of rocks found in the true drift, but are comparatively small. 2d. The Boulder Formation, as it was left disturbed by those powerful and widely-extended agencies which formed that deposit of the northern hemisphere. It is a heterogeneous stratum of sand, gravel, and boulders, all water-worn fragments of the older rocks. The larger part are from the igneous and metamorphic rocks, in place at the north, and the remainder from the paleozoic strata upon which they rest. The metamorphic and igneous rocks must have come from the northern localities of those strata, the nearest of which, according to Dr. Owen's Report, is on the St. Peter's River, about 300 miles north of St. Joseph. But the paleozoic fragments are usually from localities near where they rest, as shown by the fos- sils they contain, and are as comjActchj i-ounded as those from the more distant points. GEOLOGY. 123 The largest boulders observed iu Missouri are five or six feet in diameter. They are usually granite and metamorphic sandstone. 3d. Boulder Clay. — In Northern Missouri, the boulder formation just described often rests upon a bed of bluish or brown sandy clay, through which pebbles of various sizes are disseminated in greater or less abundance. In some localities this deposit becomes a pure white pipe clay. Range and Thickness. — The Altered Drift has been observed more frequently in the northwestern part of the State, and is often twenty-five or thirty feet thick. The Boulder Formation abounds in all parts of the State north of the Missouri, and exists in small quantities as far south as the Osage and Maramec. Its thickness is very variable, from one to forty-five feet. Its development is greater, the boulders larger, and those of a foreign origin more numerous toward the north. Its thickness varies from one to fifty feet. The Boulder Clay is also most abundant in the northern part of the State, and is, in some places, more than 100 feet thick. Organic Remains. — I have seen no fossils in this deposit, save a few logs in the altered drift of the Missouri. Some of these are still sound, and burn quite well when dry, as we proved M^hen build- ing our camp fires with them on several occasions. There are other deposits, particularly iu the middle and southern parts of the State, which are not genuine drift, and yet they bear a greater resemblance to that than any other formation, and occupy precisely the same stratigraphical position. Beneath the alluvium of the bottoms we often find deposits of pebbles similar to the genuine or altered drift of the Missouri; but all the materials came from the neighboring rocks, somewhat worn, and indiscriminately commingled with sands and clays. Whether these deposits were formed by the same agencies which produced the drift, or by a part of them only, or by other causes, has scarcely been determined. SYSTEM II. — TERTIARY. There is a formation made up of clays, sands, and iron ores, more or less indurated, extending along the bluffs and skirting the bottom, from Commerce, in Scott County, westward to Stoddard, and thence south to the Chalk Bluffs, iu Arkansas. The following section, obtained in the neighborhood of Commerce, will give a good idea of the character of these beds. The strata are numbered in their natural order, from the top down. 121 GEOLOGY. No. 1. 9 feet. — Pebbles, sand, and clay intermingled. No. 2. 2 feet. — Sand and iron ore — brown hematite. No. 3. 10 feet. — Brown and buff sand interstratified. No. 4. 12 feet. — Buff and white sand interstratified, containing rounded masses of sandstone, of the same character and color as the sand forming the strata. No. 5. 5 feet. — Clay and gravel of a bright chrome yellow. No. 6. 1 foot. — Clay and hematite ore — nearly all iron. No. 1. 47 feet. — Blue shale, which separates on exposure into rhom- boidal masses. No. 8. 2 feet. — Carbonate of iron in septaria and nodular masses, or in regular strata, which break into rhomboidal masses. No. 9. 6 feet.— Blue shale, like No. Y. No. 10. 1 foot. — Iron ore, like No. 8. No. 11. 11 feet.— Blue shale, like No. 1. No. 12. 1^ feet.— Carbonate of iron, like No. 8. No. 13. 31 feet. — Blue shale, like No. 7, with some thin bands and nodules of iron ore. No. 14. 7 feet. — Sandy clay, with thin strata and nodular masses of hematite ore. No. 15. 18 feet. — White sand interstratified with thin brown strata, containing some rounded masses of sandstone. No. 16. 5 feet. — Sand of a light peach-blossom color interstratified with brown beds. No. 17. 12 feet. — White sandstone in thick beds. The upper part is hard and vitreous, but the lower is soft and friable. This rock very much resembles the saccharoidal sandstone of the calciferous series, and appears to have been much worn by running water. No. 18. j\ foot. — Very hard, compact oxide of iron. It is strong and rings like pot-metal. No. 19. 20 feet. — Salmon-colored, white, purple, and yellow sands interstratified with clays of the same colors. No. 20. 1 foot. — Spathic iron ore. No. 21. 13 feet.— Blue potter's clay. 214 feet. — Total thickness. I have observed no fossils in these beds, except the impression of a leaf on the sandstone of No. 17. In the absence of any positive proof of the age of this interesting strata, I have marked them tertiary, in deference to their close resemblance to the tertiary rocks of the Mis- sissippi valley, until future discoveries shall show their true position. Tlie Iron Ore of these beds is very abundant and exceedingly valu- able. The spathic ore has been found in no other locality in South- GEOLOGY. 125 eastern Missouri, so that the large quantity and excellent quality of these beds will render them very valuable for the various purposes to which this ore is peculiarly adapted. The White Sand of these beds will be very valuable for glass making, and for the composition of mortars and cements. The Clays are well adapted to the manufacture of pottery and stoneware. SYSTEM III. — CRETACEOUS. Beneath the tertiary beds above described, in the bluffs of the Mis- sissippi above Commerce, the following strata were observed : — No. 1. 13 feet. — Soft argillaceous sandstone variegated with gray, brown, and white. No. 2. 20 feet. — Soft, bluish-brown, sandy slate, containing large quantities of iron pyrites. No. 3. 25 feet. — Whitish-brown, impure sandstone, banded with purple and pink. No. 4. 45 feet— Slate, like No. 2. No. 5. 45 feet. — Fine white silicious clay interstratified with white flint more or less spotted, and banded with pink and purple. No. 6. 10 feet. — Purple, red, and blue clays. 158 feet. — The entire thickness. These beds are very much disturbed, fractured, upheaved, and tilted, so as to form various faults and axes, anticlinal and synclinal, while the strata above described as tertiary are in their natural position, and rest non-conformably upon these beds. These facts show the occur- rence of great disturbances subsequent to the deposition of these beds and anterior to the formation of the strata above. We have no clew to the age of these rocks, save that they are older than the tertiary (?) beds above and newer than the Trenton limestone below. They somewhat resemble some cretaceous beds found in sev- eral places on this part of the continent; and these facts have led me to the inquiry whether they are cretaceous. Our future investigations may show their true position. We have observed no fossils in these rocks. SYSTEM IV. — CARBONIFEROUS. This system presents two important divisions: — Upper Carboniferous or Coal Measures ; Lower Carboniferous or Mountain Limestone. The Coal Measures are made up of numerous strata of sandstones, limestones, shales, clays, marls, spathic iron ores, and coals. AVe have 126 GEOLOGY. observed about fifteen hundred feet of these coal measures, containing numerous beds of iron ore, and at least eight or ten beds of good workable coal. These rocks, with the accompanying beds of coal and iron, cover an area of more than 27,000 square miles in Missouri.* If a line be drawn from the northeastern corner of the State through Clark, Lewis, Shelby, Monroe, Audrain, Callaway, Boone, Cooper, Saline, Henry, St. Clair, Cedar, and Dade Counties to the middle of the western boundary of Jasper, this irregular boundary will separate the great body of the coal measures on the northwest from the older rocks on the southeast. Besides the large body of coal measures on the north- west side of this line, there are extensive beds in Cole, Moniteau, St. Charles, St. Louis, and Callaway Counties. The common bituminous and cannel coal are the only varieties of this mineral observed. These exist in vast quantities; one might almost say inexhaustible. The fossils are numerous and interesting. So far as our observations extend, in Missouri, the Fusulina cylin- drica, Spirifer cameratus, S. plano-convexus, S. hemiplicatus, S. lineatus, S. perplexus, S. Boonensis, 8. Kentuckensis, Spirigera 3Tissouriensis, S. Ilaconensis, Productus splendins, P. sequicostatus, P. Nebrasccnsis, P. Wabashensis, P. Boonensis, Chonetes mesoloba, C. parva, C. Smithi, Myalina subquadrata, Allorisma regularis, A. ensiformis, A. terminalis, Leda arata, Pleurotomaria sphaerulata, Campophyllum torquium, and Chsetetes milleporaceus, are confined to, and very characteristic of the coal measures, f The discovery of the fact that these fossils are confined to the coal measures has enabled us to point out the existence of the coal meas- ures and the coal beds contained in thera, over an area of many thou- * The Missouri coal basin is one of the largest in the known world. Besides the 27,000 square miles in Missouri, there are in Nebraska at least 10,000 square miles, in Kansas 23,000, in Iowa, according to Dr. Owen, 20,000, in Illinois 20.000 (?) making in all at least 100,000 square miles. And we may expect the explorations of Major Ilawn in Kansas, and others in Nebraska, will add much more. f So far as I know, the Second Annual Report of the Missouri Survey made known the very striking and important difference between the fossils of the coal measures and the lower carboniferous rocks of the Mississippi valley. It was also shown in the same report that some at least of the different beds of lime- stone in the coal measures could be distinguished by their fossils. This is another application of the use of fossils of vast importance in tracing out the position of the various coal-beds in these rocks. GEOLOGY. 1^7 sand miles, where geologists bad supposed no coal measures and no coal existed. Of the Lower Carboniferous rocks we have observed the follow- ing formations : — Ferruginous Sandstone — 115 feet. Upper Archimedes or Kaskaskia Limestone — 250 feet. Prairie du Rocher Sandstone — 105 feet. Middle Archimedes or St. Genevieve Limestone — 50 (?) feet. St. Louis Limestone — 225 feet. Lower Archimedes or Keokuk Limestone — 350 feet. Encrinital Limestone — 550 feet. The Ferruginous Sandstone is variable in its lithological char- acters. In some places it is very white and saccharoidal ; in others, fine, impure particles are disseminated through the mass, and the color becomes a dirty brown ; and in a few localities, as near Fulton, Callaway County, it is a coarse conglomerate. But generally, where well developed, it is a coarse-grained, heavy-bedded, friable sand- stone, colored with various shades of brown, red, and purple, as it appears in the bluffs near Salt Creek, Sulphur Springs, some two miles west of Oceola, township 38, range 26, section 27 ; or clouded with yellow and red, as on Turkey Creek, in Cedar County. The upper part is more regularly stratified and finer grained, contains more argillo-calcareous matter, and has a lighter brown, yellowish gray or cream color. It is very soft when quarried, and may then be easily dressed for building purposes ; but exposure renders it much harder and more durable. This sandstone contains large quantities of oxides of iron, brown and red hematites, which in many places form extensive beds of ex- cellent ore. Ii! Cooper County, in the northeast quarter of section 3, township 48, range 19, this sandstone, in the bluffs of the Black Water, contains a good bed of ore, three feet thick. The same bed again shows itself in several places in section 33, township 48, range 19, and in various other places in the county. It was also observed in large masses on Grand River, in Henry County; in section 28, township 39, range 24, in St. Clair County; and in Bates and Hickory ; and in still greater abundance in the western part of Greene County. The large quantities of iron in this standstone has led me to de- signate it the Ferruginous Sandstone. It is found skirting the eastern border of the coal measures, from the mouth of the Des Moines to McDonald County. The Upper Archimedes or Kaskaskia Limestone is found under- 128 GEOLOGY. lying the ferruginous sandstone in St. Genevieve County, and in several places on the Illinois side of the Mississippi. This formation is made up of beds of blue limestone and blue shales variously interstratified. At Chester, Illinois, we find the following section of these rocks : — No. 1. 90 feet. — Blue and grayish limestone interstratified with thin strata of blue shales. No. 2. 58 feet. — Blue shales with purple and gray beds inter- calated. No. 3. 9 feet. — Bluish gray, coarse-grained and thin-bedded lime- stone, interstratified with blue shale. The fossils most characteristic of these beds are : Spirifer incre- bescens, Athyris subquadrata, Fenestella lyra, Pentremites sulcatus, P. pyriformis, and one species of Archimedipora. Prairie du Rocher Sandstone. — This is usually a light-brown, thick-bedded, friable sandstone, which sometimes contains numerous pebbles of quartz and jasper. It appears in heavy mural bluffs on the Mississippi, in St. Gene- vieve County, and at Chester and Prairie du Rocher, on the Illinois side. Its thickness varies from 20 to 100 feet. Middle Archimedes or St. Genevieve Limestone. — In lithological characters, these rocks are very much like the Upper Archimedes limestone — bluish-gray crystalline limestones intercalated with thin strata of blue shale. The fossils most abundant are Spirifer spinosa, S. Leidyi, Spiri- gera hirsuta, Retzia vera, Productus elegans, and one or more species of Archimedipora. These rocks are exposed in the bluffs of the Mississippi on both sides of the river below St. Genevieve. The St. Louis Limestone is made up of hard, crystalline, and com- pact gray and blue, somewhat cherty limestones, interstratified with thin partings of blue shale. Its stratigraphical position is between the Middle and Lower Archimedes Limestones. It is found in Clark, Lewis, and St. Gene- vieve Counties ; but attains its greatest development in St. Louis, from which the name is derived. The most characteristic fossils yet described are Palsechinus mul- tipora, Lithoslrolion mamillare, L.proliferum, Echinocrinus Nerei, Poteriocrinus longidacfylus, Atrypa lingidata, Productus margini- cinchis, Sjdrifcr LiUoni. Lower Archimedes or Keokuk Limestone. — In this formation are GEOLOGY, 129 included the "Arenaceous bed,'" ihe "Warscnv or Second Archimedes Limestone,'''' the "Magnesian Limestone," "Geode bed," and the "Keokuk or Lower Archimedes Limestone" of Professor Hall's section, and the lead-bearing rocks of Southwestern Missouri, which, though different from any of- the above beds, are more nearly allied to them than to the Encrinital limestone below. All of the above beds are easily recognized in Missouri, save, perhaps, the Warsaw limestone, which is but imperfectly represented in our northeastern counties, where the "Keokuk limestone," the "Geode beds," and the Magnesian limestone" are well developed. The most characteristic fossils described are : Agaricocrinus tube- rosus, Actinocrinus biturbinatus, Spirifer pseud o-lineatus, S. Keokuk, Orthis Keokuk, and one or more species of Archimedi- pora. This formation extends from the northeastern part of the State to the southwest, in an irregular zone skirting the eastern border of the Ferruginous sandstone. The extensive and rich lead deposits in Southwestern Missouri are in this formation. These mines occupy an area of more than 100 square miles in the Counties of Jasper and Newton. The Encrinital Limestone is at once the most extensive and best characterized of the divisions of the Carboniferous limestone. It is made up of brown, buff, gray, and white, coarse crystalline heavy- bedded limestones. The darker-colored impure varieties prevail near the base, while the lighter and more purely calcareous strata abound in the upper part. It everywhere contains globular, ovoid, and lenticu- lar masses of chert, disseminated or arranged in beds parallel to the lines of stratification. These masses of chert are more abundant in the upper beds ; in fact, the upper beds are made up almost exclu- sively of this mineral. The beds of this formation are frequently intersected by joints resembling the sutures of the cranium. The remains of corals and mollusks are very abundant; some of the strata are made up almost entirely of their exuviae, especially of the joints and plates of cri- noideans. In the southwest, these strata rest upon some seventy or eighty feet of hard, porous, and thick-bedded silicious rocks, which are included in this formation, as they have more affinities with it than with the Chemung below. There are nine divisions of this formation in Missouri, which are quite well marked by their fossils and lithological characters. The Encrinital limestone extends from Marion County to Greene, forming an irregular zone on the east of the Archimedes beds. 9 130 GEOLOGY. The most characteristfc fossils are Platycrinus planus, Actinocri- nus pyriformis, A. Missouriensis, Orthis Swallovi, 0. Michelino, Productus Burlingtonensis, Spirifer striates, S. plenus, S. linea- ioides, S. Meeki, Euomphalas latus, Ghonetes Shumardiana. SYSTEM V. — DEVONIAN. The Devonian system in Missouri is made up of the four following groups : — Chemung Group, Onondaga Limestone, Hamilton Group, Oriskany Sandstone. Chemung Group. — This group presents three formations very dis- tinct in lithological characters and fossil remains. They have received the following provisional names : — Choteau Limestone — 85 feet. Vermicular Sandstone and Shales — 15 feet. Lithographic Limestone — 125 feet. The Chouteau Limestone, when fully developed, is made up of two very distinct divisions. 1. At the top, immediately under the Encrinital limestone, we find some forty or fifty feet of brownish-gray, earthy, silico-magnesian limestone in thick beds, which contain disseminated masses of white or limpid calcareous spar. This rock is very uniform in character, and contains but few fossils. Reticulated corals, and fucoidal mark- ings like the Cauda-galli, are most abundant. In the quarry it is quite soft, but becomes very hard on exposure, and forms a very firm and durable building rock. It is also hydraulic and forms a good cement. 2. The upper division passes down into a fine, compact, blue or drab thin-bedded limestone, whose strata are quite irregular and broken. Its fracture is conchoidal, and its structure somewhat concretionary. Some of the beds are filled with a great profusion of most beauti- ful fossils. In many the organic substance has been replaced by calcareous spar. The most characteristic are Spirifer Marionensis, S. peculiaris, S. Goopercnsis, S. Vernonensis, Productus Murchi- sonianus, Ghonetes ornata, Atrypa gregaria, A. occidentalis, A. obscuraplicata, Leptxna depressa, Avicula Gooperensis, Mytilus elongatus, and several new species of Trilobites. Chouteau Limestone has been applied to these rocks, as they are well developed at the Chouteau Springs, in Cooper, where I first GEOLOGY. 131 found large quantities of its new, beautiful, and characteristic fossils. In the northeastern part of the State, the Chouteau limestone is represented by a few feet of coarse, earthy, crystalline, calcareous rock, like the lower division of the encrinital limestone, as there developed. There is, indeed, in that part of the State, no change of lithological characters as you pass from the encrinital limestone to this formation, but the change in the organic remains is both sudden and great. The Vermicular Sandstone and Shales. — The upper part of this formation is usually a buff, or yellowish-brown, fine-grained, pulveru- lent, argillo-calcareous sandstone. It is usually perforated in all directions with pores, filled with the same materials more highly colored and less indurated. This portion, when exposed to atmo- spheric agencies, often disintegrates, and leaves the rock full of wind- ing passages, as if it were worm-eaten. In the southwest the harder part is much more silicious and indurated. The middle portion is a bluish-brown and gray silico-calcareous magncsian shale. It has a conchoidal fracture, the peculiar markings of the upper part, together with those of a curious undescribed Fucoid. The lower part is usually a blue, sometimes brown, argillaceous shale or fire-clay, in regular thin strata. This formation contains but few fossils, and those arc in the upper portions. B'pirifer Mariojiensis, Productus MurcJiisonmnus, Cho- netes ornata, Avicula circula, the Fucoids above named, and the cauda-galli, are most numerous. These beds can always be detected by the lithological characters and its peculiar Fucoids. The Lithographic Limestone is a pure, fine, compact, even-textured silicious limestone, breaking rather easily, with a conchoidal fracture, into sharp angular fragments. Its color varies from a light drab to the lighter shades of buff and blue. It gives a sharp, ringing sound under the hammer, from which it is called "pot metal" in some parts of the State. It is regularly stratified in beds varying from two to sixteen inches in thickness, often presenting in mural bluff's all the regularity of masonry, as at Louisiana, on the Mississippi. The beds are intersected by numerous fractures, leaving surfaces covered with beautiful dendritic markings of oxide of iron. The strata are much thinner toward the top, where they often become silicious, and sometimes pass into an impure, thin-bedded oolitic limestone, as in the bluff's southeast of Elk Springs, in Pike County. It has but few fossils. The most abundant are Orthis Missouri- ensis, Spirifer Marionensis, Productus Subalatus, P. minutus, 132 GEOLOGY. Prcetus Missouriensis, Filicifes gracilis, Conularia tripUcata, Sjn- rigera Hannibalensis. The Chemung rocks extend from Marion County to Green, along the eastern border of the carboniferous strata. The Hamilton Group is made up of some forty feet of blue shales and 130 feet of blue, brown, and gray semi-crystalline limestone, con- taining Dalmania calliteles, Spirifer eurutines, S. mucronatus, S. aspera, S. congesta, Cyrtia Missouriensis, Spirigera Fultonensis. Onondaga Limestone. — This formation is usually a coarse gray or buff, crystalline, thick-bedded and cherty limestone, abounding in Strophodonta navalis, S. Callawayensis, Terebratula reticularis, Orthis resupinata, Chonetes nana, Productus subaculeatus, Phacops hufo, Gyatlio-phyllum rugosum, Emmonsia hemisphaerica. No formation in Missouri presents such variable and widely-differ- ent lithological characters as the Onondaga. It is generally a coarse, gray, crystalline limestone ; often a somewhat compact, bluish concre- tionary limestone, with shale partings ; in many instances a drab, com- pact limestone, containing cavities filled with green matter, or calc- spar ; in a few places a white, saccharoidal sandstone ; in two or three localities a soft, brown sandstone; and at Louisiana, a pure white oolite. Will those who would have us follow lithological characters exclusively, tell us how we are to identify this formation, without its fossils, at these various localities ? The Oriskany Sandstone of Missouri is a light gray limestone, which contains the Spirifer arenosa, Leptaena depressa, and several new species of Spirifer, Chonetes, Illsenus, and Lichas. The Devonian rocks occupy a small area in Marion, Ralls, Pike, Callaway, Saline, and Perry Counties. SYSTEM VI. — SILURIAN. Of the Upper Silurian series, we have the following formations : — Lower Helderberg — 350 feet. Niagara Group — 75 feet. Cape Girardeau Limestone — 00 feet. The Lower Helderberg Group is made up of buff, gray, and red- dish cherty, and argillaceous limestones, blue shales, and dark grap- tolite slates. Dalmania tridentifera, Gheirurus Missouriensis, Encrinurus punctatus (?), GaJymene rugosa, Orthis hyhrida, 0. ele- ganlula, and several species of Platyostoma are the prevailing fossils. Niagara Group. — The upper part of this formation consists of red, yellow, and ash-colored shales with compact limestones inter- GEOLOGY, 133 stratified. The lower beds are purple, gray, and buff limestones variegated with bands and nodules of cherl. Hahjsites caienularia, Columyiay-ia inequalis, Calymene Blumen- hachii, and Garyocrinus ornatus are the most characteristic fossils. Cape Girardeau Limestone is a compact, bluish-gray, brittle, lime- stone, with a smooth fracture, in layers from two to six inches in thickness, with thin argillaceous partings. These strata contain a great many fossils, principally Trilobites and Criuoids. In a small slab not more than three by three inches, I have counted four genera of Trilobites, viz., Cyphaspis Girardeauen.Hs, Acidaspis Halli, Free- tus depressus, Asaphus Nov. sjy. None of these Trilobites have been before noticed in this country, and, so far as I can ascertain, the species are distinct from European forms. According to Barrande, the first three genera occur in the greatest numbers in the Upper Silurian period, and are very spai'ingly represented in the Lower Silurian groups. The Crinoids belong mostly to the genera Glyptocrinus, Horaecrinus, and Tentaculites and Pala^ster, and the shells to Orthis, Leptiena, and Turbo — all being of undescribed species. These strata occur on the Mississippi R-iver, about one mile and a half above Cape Girardeau. Thickness, forty to fifty feet. Lower Silurian. We have thus far observed the formations belonging to this series : — Hudson River Group — 220 feet. Trenton Limestone — 360 feet. Black River and Bird's-eye Limestone — T5 feet 1st Mas^nesian Limestone — 200 feet. Saccharoidal Sandstone — 125 feet. 2d Magnesian Limestone — 280 feet. 2d Sandstone — 115 feet. 3d Magnesian Limestone — 350 feet. 3d Sandstone— 60 feet. 4tli Magnesian Limestone — 300 feet, Hudson River Group. — There are three formations, which we have referred to this group : — 1st. Immediately below the oolite of the Onondaga limestone, in the bluffs both above and below Louisiana, we find some forty feet of blue, gray, and brown argillaceous magnesian limestone. The upper part of these shales is in thick beds, presenting a dull, conchoidal frac- ture, and containing Asaphus megistos and Calymene senaria. The 134 GEOLOGY. lower part of this division becomes more argillaceous, and has several thin beds of bluish-gray crystalline limestone, intercalated, which con- tain many fossils of the following species : Leptaena sericea, L. alter- nata, L.planumhona, Orthisjugosa, 0. subquadrala, and Bhynchonella capax. There are, also, strata of calcareo-arenaceous slate in the same posi- tion, filled with remains, which I am unable to distinguish from Pro- fessor Hall's Palseophycus virgatus, and another contorted species, smaller than No. 2, pi. 70 of Professor Hall's Report. There are, also, beds of slate, similar to those above mentioned, at the base of these shales, whose surfaces are covered with great numbers of the Lin- gula ancyloidea. 2d. On the Grassy, three and a half miles northwest of Louisiana, about sixty feet of blue and purple shales are exposed, below the beds above described. They contain three species of Lingula: Lingula quadraia, L. fragilia, and still another not named. The first resem- bles the L. quadraia of Hall, but is destitute of the " radiating striae" of that species, and is larger; it is more like the variety from the Tren- ton Limestone than that from the Hudson River Group. 3d. Under the second division are some twenty feet of argillo-mag- nesian limestone, similar to that in the first division, interstratified with blue shales. Ortliis subquadrala, O.jugosa, Leptaena allernala, Rhyn- chonella capax, and Asaphus megislos are abundant. These rocks have been seen only in Ralls, Cape Girardeau, and Pike Counties. On the Grassy, a thickness of 120 feet is exposed, and they extend below the surface to an unknown depth. Trenton Limestone. — The upper part of this formation is made up of thick beds of hard, compact, bluish-gray and drab limestone, varie- gated with irregular cavities filled with greenish materials, while the beds below are filled with irregular cylindrical portions, which readily decompose on exposure, and leave the rock perforated with numerous irregular passages, that somewhat resemble those made in timber by the Teredo navalis. The appearance of the rock when thus decomposed is very singular, and is a well-marked character of this part of the formation. The decomposed, honey-combed portions are most admirably adapted to ornamental rock-work in gardens and yards. These beds are ex- posed on the plank-road from Hannibal to New London, north of Salt River, and are seventy-five feet thick. Below them are thick strata of impure, coarse, gray and buff crystalline magnesian lime- stones, with many brown, earthy portions, which rapidly disintegrate on exposure to atmosj)heric influences. This part may be seen in the bluff GEOLOGY. 135 of Salt River, near the plank-road, one hundred and fifty feet thick. The lower part is made up of hard, blue and bluish-gray, semi-com- pact, silico-magnesian limestone, interstratified with light buflf and drab, soft and earthy magnesian beds. Fifty feet of these strata crop out at the quarries south of the plank-road bridge over Salt lliver, and on Spencer's Creek, in Ralls County. The middle beds sometimes pass into a pure white crystalline marble of great beauty, as at Cape Girardeau. Organic Remains. — Fossils are abundant in all parts of the forma- tion. Lcptsena deltoidea, L. sericea, L. alternata, Orthis pectinella, 0. tedudinaria, 0. tricenaria, Rhynchonella capax, Murchisonia gracilis, M. hellicincta, Receptaculites sulcata, and Chaetetes lycop)er- don are most common. Black lliver and Bird's-eye Limestone. — " They are bluish-gray or dovC'Colored, compact, brittle limestones, with a smooth, conchoidal fracture. The beds vary in thickness from a few inches to several feet." " Near the base the rock is frequently traversed in all directions by vermicular cavities and cells." Gonioceras anceps, Ormoceras tenuifolium, and Gythere sublevis are the most abundant fossils. 1st Magnesian Limestone. — This formation is developed in many parts of the State. It is usually a gray or buff, crystalline, cherty, silico-magnesian limestone, filled with small irregular masses of a soft, white, or greenish-yellow silicious substance, which rapidly decomposes when exposed, and leaves the rock full of irregular cavities, and cov- ered with rough projecting points. These rugged, weather-worn strata crop out in the prairies, and cap the picturesque bluffs of the Osage in Benton and the neighboring counties. These beds often pass into a homogeneous buff or gray crystalline magnesian limestone, which is frequently clouded with blue or pink, and would make a good fire-rock and building stone. At other places the strata become compact, hard, and clouded, as above, forming a still more beautiful and durable marble. Some of the upper beds are silicious, presenting a porous, semi- transparent, vitreous mass, in which are disseminated numerous small, globular, white, enamelar, oolitic particles. They are sometimes in regular and continuous strata ; at others in irregular masses, present- ing mammillated, and batryoidal and drusy forms of this beautiful mineral. In some parts of Benton and the neighboring counties these masses, left by the denuded strata, literally cover the surface and ren- der the soil almost valueless for ordinary cultivation. Other strata abound in concretions, or organic forms, which resemble 136 GEOLOGY. wooden button-moulds, with a central aperture and one convex surface. Masses of calcareous spar are quite abundant in the upper beds. But the lower part of this fornaation is made up of thin, regular strata, of a soft, earthy, light drab or cream-colored silico -argillaceous mague- sian limestone. Above the beds already described we find, in several places in the State, a succession of hard, silicious, dark bluish-gray, semi-crystalline limestones, interstratified with grayish-drab, earthy magnesian varie- ties, all in regular layers destitute of chert. These strata have been joined to the first magnesian limestone, with the expectation that they may prove distinct from the calciferous sandrock and the first magne- sian limestone, and be identified with the chazy limestone or some other formation. Straparollus Isevata (?), a small variety of Cythcre sublevis, and a large Orihoceras have been observed. Saccharoidal Sandstone. — This formation is usually a bed of white, friable sandstone, slightly tinged with red and brown, which is made up of globular concretions and angular fragments of limpid quartz. It presents very imperfect strata, but somewhat more distinct lines of deposition, variously inclined to the planes of stratification. This interesting formation has a wide range over the State. I have seen it in Ralls, Boone, Saline, Cooper, Moniteau, Pettis, Benton, Morgan, Hickory, St. Clair, Cedar, Polk, and Dallas; and Drs. Shu- mard and Litton observed it in Perry, Franklin, St. Genevieve and other counties. Its thickness is very variable, from one to one hundred and twenty- five feet. At times it thickens very rapidly ; so much so, as to increase thirty or forty feet in a few hundred yards. In a bluff about two miles northeast of Warsaw is a very striking illustration of this change of thickness. This sandstone crops out along the bluff, between the 1st and 2d magnesian limestone, and in a few yards decreases in thickness from twenty feet to one. Where thinnest, it is semi-vitreous, and the line of demarkation between it and the limestones is very distinct. Near the same place is a locality where the sandstone thickens so rapidly as to present the appearance of a dike, cutting off' the strata of limestone above and below that formation. I have had specimens broken from the junction of this dike- like mass with the wall of the adjacent limestone, which are half sandstone and half limestone, show- ing the two rocks firmly cemented together. On Bear Creek, near Warsaw, as shown in the Second Annual Re- port of Missouri Survey, at nermann, and in many other places, are GEOLOGY. 137 very striking instances of this dike-like development of this rock; but I must admit that such a freak among sedimentary rocks I have never observed in any other formation. One might give a satisfactory reason for its penetrating the strata above, but by what process of nature it was made to cut off the beds below is not so obvious. There is, perhaps, a possibility that after the deposition of the 2d magnesian limestone, the waters which depos- ited the silicious matter of the sandstone first cut a channel in the upper strata of the limestone. But future investigations may enable us to solve the difficulty more satisfactorily. A very large Orthoceras is found in this sandstone. 2d Magnesian Limestone. — The lithological characters of this formation are very much like those of the 1st magnesian limestone, above described. The following section from the bluffs of the Osage, above Warsaw, *will give an idea of its general character: — No. 1. 12 feet. — First magnesian limestone. No. 2. 4 feet. — Saccharoidal sandstone. No. 3. 15 feet. — Soft, earthy, fine-grained, yellowish-white or drab silico-magnesian limestone, with a conchoidal, earthy fracture in beds from half of an inch to one foot thick, interstratified with thin layers of bluish silico-argillaceous magnesian limestone. It is called "Cotton Bock. " No. 4. 1 foot. — Coarse-grained, crystalline, greenish-brown lime- stone, in thin laminae. The crystals are as large as buck-shot, and give the rock a brecciated appearance. No. 5. 8 feet. — Limestone, like No. 3, interstratified with chert. No. 6. 10 feet. — Compact, buff silicious limestone, filled with heavy spar and iron pyrites, some parts so variegated with flesh-colored spots as to present the appearance of a breccia — a beautiful and dur- able marble. No. 7. 3 feet. — Coarse, gray and brown, and buff crystalline mag- nesian limestone, filled with masses and veins of calcareous spar. No. 8. 1 foot.— Like No. 3. No. 9. 5 feet.— Like No. T. No. 10. 5 feet. — Hard, compact, gray silicious limestone, interstrat- ified with chert and "cotton rock." No. 11. 1 foot. — Yellowish-gray saccharoidal sandstone. No. 12. 4 feet— Like No. 10. No. 13. 10 feet.— Like No. 3. No. 14. 5 feet. — Semi-oolitic, sub-crystalline, hard, gray silicious limestone, interstratified with compact, flesh-colored silicious beds. 138 GEOLOGY. 'No. 15. G feet. — Soft, buff, fine-grained magnesian limestone, inter- stratified with chert and a compact, flesh- colored silicious limestone. No. 16. 25 feet. — Coarse, gray and buff silico-magnesian limestone, variegated by cavities filled with a white or yellowish pulverulent sili- cious substance, which decomposes on exposure and leaves the rock porous. It is an excellent fire-rock. No. 17. 4 feet— Like No. 14. No. 18. 10 feet.— Like No. 15. Strata undulating. No. 19. 2 feet. — Fine, compact, flesh-colored silicious limestone. No. 20. 8 feet. — Hard, gray, crystalline, semi-vitreous, calcareous sandstone, with chert interspersed. No, 21. 20 feet.— Slope to water. 2d Sandstone. — This is usually a brown, or yellowish-brown, fine- grained sandstone, distinctly stratified in regular beds, varying from two to eighteen inches in thickness. The surfaces are often ripple marked and micaceous. It is sometimes quite friable, though generally sufficiently indurated for building purposes. The upper part is often made up of thin strata of light, soft and porous, semi-pulverulent sandy chert or horn-stone, whose cavities are usually lined with limpid crys- tals of quartz. Fragments of these strata are very abundant in the soil and on the ridges where this sandstone forms the surface rock. It someiimes becomes a pure, white, fine-grained, soft sandstone, as on Cedar Creek, in Washington County, in Franklin, and other localities. 3d Magnesian Limestone. — This limestone is exposed on the high and j)icturesque bluffs of the Niangua, in the neighborhood of Bryce's Spring, where the following strata were observed : — No. 1. 50 feet. — 2d sandstone. No. 2. 80 feet. — Gray and buff crystalline silico-magnesian lime- stone, somewhat clouded with flesh-colored spots and bluish bands. It is regularly stratified in thick beds, some of which have many cells filled with a white, pulverulent, silicious substance ; while others are ferruginous and semi-oolitic. It contains very little chert. No. 3. 50 feet. — Blue and white ferruginous chert, interstratified with hard, compact, and flesh-colored silicious limestone. No. 4. 190 feet. — Like No. 2, save some beds are hard, compact, buff or flesh-colored, and silicious. No. 5 20 feet. — Light drab, fine-grained, crystalline silico-magne- sian limestone, often slightly tinged with peach-blossom, and beauti- fully clouded with darker spots and bands of the same hue or flesh- color. It is distinctly stratified in beds of medium thickness. No. 6. 50 feet.— Like No. 2. No. 7. 30 feet — 3d sandstone ; crops out lower down. GEOLOGY. 139 3d Sandstone. — This is a white saccharoidal sandstone, made up of slightly-cohering, transparent, globular and angular particles of silex. It shows but little appearance of stratification, yet the well-marked lines of deposition, like those of a Missouri sand-bar, indicate its form- ation in moving water. 4th Magnesian Limestone. — This presents more permanent and uniform lithological characters than any of the magnesian limestones. It is usually a grayish-buff, coarse-grained, crystalline magnesian lime- stone, containing a few cavities filled with less indurated silicious matter. Its thick, uniform beds contain but little chert. The best exposures of this formation are on the Niangua and Osage Rivers. This magnesian limestone series is very interesting, both in its scientific and economical relations. It covers a large portion of Southern and Southeastern Missouri, is remarkable for its extensive caves and large springs, and contains all the vast deposits of lead, zinc, copper, cobalt, haematite ores of iron, and nearly all the marble beds of the State. Thoy indeed contain a large part of all our min- eral wealth. The lower part of the 1st magnesian limestone, the saccharoidal sandstone, the 2d magnesian limestone, the 2d sandstone, and the upper part of the 3d magnesian limestone belong without doubt to the age of the calciferous sand-rock ; but the remainder of the series may prove to be Potsdam sandstone. Igneous Rocks. — There are a series of rounded knobs and hills in St. Francois, Iron, Dent, and the neighboring counties, which are principally made up of granite, jiorphyry and greenstone. These igneous rocks contain those wonderful beds of specular iron, of which Iron Mountain and Pilot Knob are samples. These mountains of iron and igneous rocks are older than the oldest of the stratified rocks above described; as the beds of the latter rest against the sides of the former without exhibiting signs of any con- siderable disturbance. 140 MINERAL RESOURCES. THE MINERAL RESOURCES OF MISSOURI. COAL. — Mineral coal has done much to promote the rapid pro- gress of the present century; commerce and manufactures could not have reached their present unprecedented prosperity without its aid. And no people can expect success in those departments of human industry, unless their territory furnishes an abundance of this useful mineral. Previous to the present State Survey, it was known that coal existed in many counties of the State ; but there was no definite knowledge of the continuation of workable beds over any consider- able areas. But since the Geological Survey commenced, the south- eastern outcrop of the Coal Measures has been traced from the mouth of the Des Moines, through Clark, Lewis, Shelby, Monroe, Audrain, Boone, Cooper, Pettis, Henry, St. Clair, Bates, and Yer- non into the Indian territory; and every county on the northwest of this line is known to contain more or less coal, giving us an area of over 26,000 square miles of coal beds in that part of the State. The Geological Survey has proved the existence of vast quantities of coal in Johnston, Pettis, Lafayette, Cass, Cooper, Chariton, Howard, Boone, Saline, Putnam, Adair, Macon, Carroll, Callaway, Audrain ; and it is.confideutly expected that the counties to the northwest will prove to DC as rich when fully examined. Outside of the coal field, as given above, the regular coal rocks also exist in Ralls, Montgomery, Callaway, St. Charles, and St. Louis; and local deposits of cannel and bituminous coal in Moni- teau, Cole, Morgan, Saline, Cooper, Callaway, and probably other counties. Workable beds of good coal exist in nearly all places where the Coal Measures are developed, as some of the best beds are near the base and must crop out on the borders of the coal-field. This is found to be the fact where examinations have been made. All of the little outliers along the borders contain more or less coal, though the strata are not more than ten or fifteen feet thick. But exclusive of these outliers and local deposits, we have an area of 26,88'7 square miles of the regular Coal Measures. If the average thickness of workable coal be one foot only, it will give 26,887,000,000* tons for the whole area occupied by coal rocks. * The mining engineers of England allow 1,000,000 tons jjer square mile for every foot of workable coal. MINERAL RESOURCES. 141 But in many places the tliickness of the workable beds is over fifteen feet ; and the least estimate that can be made for the whole area is five feet. This will give 134,435,000,000 tons of good available coal in our State. In our efforts to estimate the economical value of so vast a deposit of this most useful mineral, we should constantly bear in mind the position of these beds, beneath the soil of one of the richest agricultural regions on the continent, within a State whose manufacturing and commercial facilities and resources are scarcely inferior to any, and adjacent to the Missouri River and the Pacific, the North Missouri and the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroads. With all these advantages of location, the certainty that these coal beds can furnish 100,000,000 tons per annum for the next 1300 years, and then have enough left for a few succeeding generations, is a fact of no small importance to the State. The local deposits of cannel and common bituminous varieties furnish some of the best coal in the State, and, though many of these beds will not yield sufficient quantities for exportation or extensive manufacturing purposes, they are of great value for supplying the local demand. But some of the beds of the cannel varieties could furnish a very large supply of an excellent article for gas, oil, and those manufacturing purposes, where a light pure coal, producing an abundance of flame, is desirable. IRON. — Among minerals, iron stands pre-eminent in its influence upon the power and prosperity of a nation. Nations who possess it in large quantities, and by whom it is extensively manufactured, seem to partake of its hardy nature and sterling qualities. Missouri pos- sesses an inexhaustible supply of the very best ores of this metal. She also has all desirable facilities for becoming the great iron mart of the Western continent. Specular Oxide. — This is, probably, the most abundant and val- uable ore in the State. Iron Mountain is the largest mass observed, and is made up almost exclusively of this ore in its purest form ; as it contains no perceptible quantity of other mineral, save some less than one per cent, of silica, which improves rather than injures its quality. .iut little need be said of this mountain of iron, as there is no iv m for speculation or doubt as to the quantity or quality — one is inexhaustible, and the other cannot be improved for many purposes. The quantity above the level of the valley is easily estimated. The height of the mountain is 228 feet, and its base covers an area of 500 acres, which gives, according to Dr. Litton, 1,655,280,000 cubic feet, or 230, 187,375 tons of ore. But this is only a fraction of the 142 MIXEKAL RESOURCES. ore at this locality. The nature of the ore, the plutonic character of the associated rocks, aud the position of the ore beneath the level of the valley, and of the sedimentary rocks skirting the base of the mountain, all indicate its igneous origin, and that it extends down- ward indefinitely, enlarging as it descends. But, on the supposition that it continues of the same size, every foot of descent will give over 3,000,000 tons of ore. Each one can judge for himself how deep he will be compelled to go to get enough. Several veins of this ore, of good quality, are found intersecting the porphyry at the Shut-in, in township 33, range 4, north half sec- tion 2. The largest vein exposed is nearly vertical, ranging north and south, and is one foot thick. One of the first iron furnaces in this part of the country was erected at this place. There are other im- portant localities of this ore in the neighborhood of Pilot Knob. The Bogy or Buford Ore Bed, in township 33, range 3 east, north- east quarter section 24; the Big Bogy Mountain, in township 33, range 3 east, southeast quarter section 13 ; and the Russell Mountain, in township 33, range 3 east, east half section 3, are the most noted. Specular ore of the best quality abounds at a number of localities in Phelps County. The oldest known, and, perhaps, most valuable deposit in this county, is the Maramec Ore Banks, situated about a half mile from the Maramec, on the west side. This bank was opened as early as 1826, by Messrs. Massey and James, who com- menced the erection of a furnace, which was completed in the month of January, 1829, and has been in operation at intervals up to the present time. The ore, which is a rich, compact specular variety, is wrought by Messrs. James, the present proprietors, with consider- able profit. It occurs in large rounded or angular masses, and ap- pears to be almost inexhaustible. When the masses are broken they exhibit cavities filled with small, extremely beautiful, fibrous crystals of iron, which are highly irides- cent, and sometimes perfectly transparent quartz crystals. In some parts of the bank the specular ore is imbedded in a soft, purplish hematite, which is quite soapy to the touch. It forms an excellent and valuable paint, for which purpose large quantities, I am told, are sent annually to the Eastern cities. In section 32, township 37, range 8, there is an extensive deposit of specular ore very similar in character to the Maramec bank. In Dent County, in sections 2, 3, 10, and 11, of township 35, range 4 west, is one of the most valuable and extensive deposits of the specu- lar oxide of iron in that part of the State. The ore is rich and pure, and will yield a very large per cent, of the very best iron. In appear- MINERAL RESOURCES. 143 ance the ore is intermediate between that of the Iron Mountain and that at the Pilot Knob ; but in quality it is not surpassed by either. Iron ore is found at many localities in Pulaski County. A large deposit of specular iron ore similar to that used at the Maramec Iron Works in Phelps County, was examined in section 31, township 37, range 12. These are but a few of the many localities of this ore known to exist in various parts of the State. The Specular and Magnetic Oxides. — At Shepard Mountain tlie ore is usually a mixture of these varieties, (the magnetic being the least abundant,) in a very pure state ; as they yield less than two per cent, of silex and alumina, which are the only substances perceptible in most of the ore; and they do not injure its quality. The ore at this mountain exists in vertical veins, ranging in different directions through the porphyry of which the mountain is composed. They vary in thickness from one foot to fourteen. Three of these veins have been partially explored. They will yield an enormous amount of ore, as they, doubtless, continue downward indefinitely; for they have every appearance of an igneous origin. They exist in nearly perpendicular fissures in a plutonic rock ; the walls of these fissures appear to be striated in places ; the purple porphyry on each side has lost its color and become very soft and somewhat friable, as might be expected from such a rock, after exposure to heat and the action of atmospheric influences ; and besides, fragments of the porphyry were detected in the ore ; and they changed in the same manner as the wall rocks. Such facts, it seems to me, indicate an igneous origin, and the indefinite continuation of the vein in a doAvnward direction. Silicious Specular Oxide. — The ore of the Pilot Knob is somewhat different from the other iron ore of this neighborhood, both in appear- ance and composition. It is more compact and breaks with a gray steel-like fracture, and contains ten or twenty per cent, of silica. The silica should make the ore no less valuable, as the presence of that mineral usually renders it more fusible and better adapted to some uses. Pilot Knob is 581 feet high, (its base 531 feet above St. Louis,) and it covers an area of 360 acres. A large portion of this mountain is pure ore ; but it is not so easy to estimate the quantity, as it is in- terstratified with the slates, which, together with the ore, form the greater portion of the mountain. At any rate, the quantity is enor- mous, and may be considered inexhaustible. The amount above the surface cannot be less than 13,972,1'73 tons. But it evidently far exceeds this estimate ; for the thick stratum from which the most of 144 MINERAL RESOURCES. the ore has been obtained will give nearly 10,000,000 tons. There are several strata above, and, at least, one below. Whether this ore had an igneous origin, is not so certain ; still the metamorphosed character of the slates with which it is interstratified, the relative position of the plutonic rocks below and around it, and its similarity to the ores in Shepard Mountain, Iron Mountain, and the Shut-in, all go to show its igneous origin. If this be true, the main stratum is probably connected with the fissure through which it was ejected. This fissure or vein is to be sought on the southwestern side, where the dip of this stratum brings it near the base of the mountain or within its base. There is no probability that this valuable ore can be exhausted within any time, sufficiently short, to affect the market value of the deposit. There is ore enough of the very best quality within a few miles of Pilot Knob and Iron Mountain, above the surface of the valleys, to furnish 1,000,000 tons per annum of manufactured iron for the next two hundred years. All of these ores are well adapted to the manufacture of pig-metal ; and those of Iron Mountain and Shepard Mountain are used for making blooms by the Catalan process, in the Bloomeries, at Pilot Knob and at Valle Forge. Hematite. — This ore is very generally diffused through the south- ern part of the State wherever the ferruginous sandstone, or the 2d and 3d magnesian limestones are developed, as it is most abund- ant in those formations. The hematite of the ferruginous sand- stone is not generally so uniform in texture and so pure as that found in the calciferous sandrock. There are three important local- ities of it in Cooper County. One is immediately on the bluff's of the Blackwater, in township 48, range 19 west, northeast quarter sec- tion 3. The ore at this place forms a stratum in the sandstone, some three feet thick, which promises an abundant yield. The same ore again shows itself in the same geological position, in section 33 of the same township, where it covers a large area, and will furnish much more ore than the last locality. Loose masses were also seen in township 41, range 19, section 35, which had evidently fallen down from this sandstone in the hill above. The same ore was also observed on the eastern bluff's of the La Mine, above the mouth of Clear Creek. Large blocks of hematite were discovered resting on the surface of the encrinital limestone on the brow of a bluff in township 39, range 24, section 28, in St. Clair County. The ore at this place has been derived from the sandstone which had disinte- MINERAL RESOURCES. 145 s:rated and left the iron. In townsliip 38, range 26, some half mile southeast of the Salt Creek Sulphur Springs, which are in section 27, I saw a great many large blocks of this ore from the same sand- stone. There are also localities on Grand River, in Henry County. One of the most valuable localities of iron was observed in the southwestern part of Greene County. Large masses of fibrous brown hematite cover several acres in the southeast quarter of section 24, township 21, range 24. The bed is more than eight feet thick in a shaft sunk into it. In the southwest quarter, section 19, township 27, range 23, we saw another large bed of the same ore. The same ore covers many acres in the northwest quarter of the same section. It also abounds in section 7 of the same township, and in sections 14 and 15, township 27, range 24. There are also large beds of this ore to the north and northeast of these localities. Some important beds of the common brown hematite occur at Pond Springs, and several other localities in Greene County. In section 2, township 25, range 25, in Stone County, large quantities of the ore were observed. Beds of less importance were also seen in nearly all the counties examined in the southern part of the State. The hematite of the magnesian limestones is of better quality and more extensively diffused. The most important localities in the 2d magnesian limestone are in Franklin County, in townships 41 and 42, range 1 east. These beds will yield a large amount of excellent ore. There is also a quantity of this ore a short distance above Warsaw and several localities west of Buffalo. Many local- ities of it were observed in the 3d magnesian limestone. But the most important is in the ridge, in the forks of the Big and Little Niangua, extending from the mouth of the latter to section 12, town- ship 38, range 18. The slopes of this ridge and the ravines skirting it are covered with fragments of the ore in such quantities as seem to indicate a vast deposit. The hematite in township 34, range 3, section 21, is probably in this limestone. The ore is good; but I cannot speak with certainty of the amount. The 4th magnesian limestone also contains several important deposits of this ore in Camden. In the northwest quarter of section 27, township 36, range 7, large masses of specular and brown iron ore abound on the surface. A shaft of fifteen feet has been sunk here, from which a good deal of argillaceous red hematite has been taken. In Perry County several fine deposits of hematite ore have been discovered. The Birmingham beds are, perhaps, the most import- ant. These beds are located near the mouth of Apple Creek, in 10 14G MINERAL RESOURCES. what are called Iron Ridge and Iron Hill. The ore is abundant and good. In Stoddard County, near Kitchen's Mill, I discovered large quan- tities of this ore. It was used in building the dam for the mill. In township 27, range 9, the bluffs toward Duck Creek Swamp contain vast beds of good hematite. I followed the outcrop several miles along the bluffs. But the most extensive of the deposits of this ore was discovered in the bluffs facing Mingo Swamp, in township 21, ranges 8 and 9. Here it appears as a regular stratum in the mag- nesian limestones. It is four or five feet thick, and extends along the bluff nearly a mile. In Scott County I discovered several beds of this ore in the ter- tiary rocks in the bluffs facing the southern swamps. The beds are extensive ; but the quality is inferior. Bog Ore is very abundant in the swamps of Southeast Missouri. I examined vast beds of this in Scott County, in section 2, township 27, range 14, on the Stake Glades, where the ore is nearly one foot thick over a large area. From this point the ore was seen at short intervals in St. John's Lake or swamp down to the Iron Ore Ford, where the quantity is very great — the bed about one foot thick. This ore also exists in Big Cypress west of Sandy Prairie. It was also discovered in extensive beds in the swamp southwest of Charleston, Mississippi County. In Dunklin County, in Buffalo and Honey Cypresses, fine beds were discovered several miles in length. The quantity of this ore in this part of the State is very great — more than enough to supply all future demands. Spathic Ore or Carbonate of Iron.— This ore is found in greater or less quantities in all parts of the State where the coal measures exist; but the most valuable beds yet examined are those in the tertiary rocks in the bluff of the southern and eastern parts of town- ship 28, range 13, and township 29, range 14. There are four regular strata of the ore, varying from one to two feet in thickness. These beds crop out of the southern face of the bluffs at various points between Benton and Commerce. The ore is good, and may be worked to great advantage. LEAD. — Next to iron, lead is perhaps the most abundant of all the valuable metals in the State. Our lead mines have been worked with great success for the last half century. It is true that the amount of mining done and the success at various points have been somewhat variable, as is always the case in mining operations, when conducted and carried on by men who have but little capital and practical knowledge of the work ; as ours have been in some considerable de- MINERAL RESOURCES. 147 gree at least. Many of our mines have been neglected for various reasons. Some on account of disputed titles, others from the general depression of the business affairs of the "West; but there is no good reason to suppose our mines would be less productive now than at any previous period. Few or none have been exhausted ; and many are now worked with greater success than at any previous time. All the facts encourage a more extended effort to work out and more fully develop some of the neglected lead mines of our State. Our space will not permit a detailed account of the lead mines of the State. There are more than five hundred localities, old and new, that promise good returns to the miner; two hundred and sixteen have been catalogued in my report on the southwest branch of the Pacific Railroad. The Eastern Lead Region comprises a large portion of Franklin, Washington, Jefferson, Crawford, Phelps, Dent, Madison, St. Fran9ois, St. Genevieve, and some parts of the adjoining counties, giving an area of some 5000 square miles. The Southwestern Lead Eegion comprises a large portion of New- ton and Jasper, and portions of the adjoining counties, making an area of about 200 square miles. The Osage Lead Region contains a considerable portion of Cole, Moniteau, Morgan, Benton, Camden, and Miller Counties, an area of about 1000 square miles. The Southern Lead Region comprises portions of Taney, Christian, and perhaps other counties. The extent is but little known ; at least 100 square miles have been examined. It is not to be supposed that these areas, large as they are, contain all the lead lands of the State. We have not yet examined a single county south of the Osage and the Missouri without finding in it more or less of this valuable mineral. And, besides, nearly all the counties in Southern Missouri are underlaid by the true lead-bearing rocks of our State. We have then 6300 square miles in which lead deposits in workable quantities have been found and successfully worked ; and at least 15,000 square miles more of lead-bearing rocks, where we may reasonably expect to find valuable deposits of this mineral. I must refer to the Ceological Reports for the details of our lead mines. COPPER. — The copper mines of Shannon, Madison, and Franklin Counties have been known for a long time. Some of the mines of Shannon and Franklin were once worked with bright prospects of suc- cess. Some in Madison. are still yielding with good results. Deposits of copper have been discovered in Dent, Crawford, Benton, 148 MINERAL RESOURCES. Maries, Greene, Lawrence, Dade, Taney, Dallas, Phelps, and Wright Counties. But the mines in Franklin, Shannon, Madison, Dent, and "Washington give greater promise of yielding profitable results than any others yet discovered. When capitalists are prepared to work these mines in a systematic manner, they may expect good returns for the money invested. ZINC. — Sulphuret of zinc is very abundant in nearly all the mines in Southwestern Missouri, particularly in those mines in Newton and Jasper, in the mountain limestone. The carbonate and the silicate occur in the same localities, though in much smaller quantities. The ores of zinc are also found in greater or less abundance in all the counties on the southwestern branch; but the distance from market, and the difficulties in smelting the most abundant of these ores, the sulphuret, have prevented the miners from appreciating its real value. It often occurs in such large masses as to impede very materially the progress of mining operations. For this reason, black-jack is no favorite with the miners of the Southwest. Many thousand tons have been cast aside with the rubbish as so much worthless matter; but the completion of the Southwestern Branch will so lessen the cost of trans- portation as to give a market value to this ore, and convert into valuable merchandise the vast quantities of it, which could be so easily obtained in Jasper, Newton, and other counties of the South- west. Considerable quantities of the sulphuret, carbonate, and silicate, also occur in the Eastern Lead Region. At Perry's mine, at Mount Hope mine, in township 36, range 3, east, sections 4 and 7, and at a locality near Potosi, these ores exist in some considerable quantities; but little has been done to test the value of the ores of zinc in these and other localities in the State. COBALT AND NICKEL. — Ores of these metals are obtained in some considerable quantities in Mine La Motte. Small quantities only have been discovered in other localities. MANGANESE. — The peroxide of manganese exists in small quan- tities in the second sandstone, on the plank-road, west of St. Gene- vieve, and at Buford's ore bank. SILVER. — Silver has not been discovered in the State, save in minute quantities in the sulphuret of lead. GOLD. — Gold has been found in very small quantities in a few places in the State ; but I have no evidence that any of the localities will pay for working them. PLATINUM. — Platinum has been reported in one or two localities in the State ; but I have not been able to obtain any. MINERAL RESOURCES. 149 BUILDING MATERIALS.— The possession of materials for the construction of habitations is one of the first necessities of the human race ; and, as the race advances in civilization and wealth, the demand for the more beautiful and durable qualities constantly increases, and it becomes a matter of no small importance to determine whether we are prepared to supply the demand which our advancement will create for dwellings, warehouses, and public edifices. Our examinations in Missouri prove the existence of such materials in nearly every forma- tion in the State. Limestones, suitable for building purposes, are abundant in the Upper and Middle Coal Series, in the St. Louis Limestone, the Ar- chimedes Limestone, the Encrinital Limestone, the Chouteau Lime- stone, the Onondaga Limestone, the Cape Girardeau Limestone, the Trenton Limestone, and the second, third, and fourth Magnesian Lime- stones. All of these formations are, more or less, employed in the places where they are exposed. Numbers 1 and 6 of the Upper Coal Series furnished the rock used in the Presbyterian church and the public-house, erected by Mr. Park, at Parkville, and in the public buildings at Fort Leavenworth, all of which indicate their durability and beauty ; and the ease with which it is wrought into any desirable form renders it a very economical building material. No. 41, of the Middle Coal Series, is a light-gray semi-crystalline lime- stone, which is both durable and beautiful. It is used at Lexington. The St. Louis limestone has many beds of excellent rock, which are extensively quarried and employed for various purposes in St. Louis County. The Archimedes beds furnish a very great number of very durable limestone. It is used for the custom-house in St. Louis. The Encrinital strata are more extensively employed for econo- mical purposes than any other limestone in the State. The State University and the Court-house, at Columbia, furnish abundant proof of its adaptation to building purposes. The upper beds of the Trenton limestone, and the dark compact and the light magnesian strata in the lower part, are very desirable building stones ; but the middle beds are not so durable ; still they are sometimes used. The court-house, in St. Louis, presents good examples of the Trenton limestone. The strata of Cotton-Rock, so abundant in the magnesian lime- stones, are much used. The State-house, Court-house, and many other buildings at Jefferson City, show the adaptation of this lime- stone to such purposes. This is the same as the buff limestone im- ported into St. Louis from Illinois for houses. This rock is equally good at many localities in our own State. These formations, also, contain numerous beds of the silicious and the magnesian crystalline 150 MINERAL RESOURCES. varieties, which are much stronger and more durable than the Cotton- Rock. Marbles. — There are several beds of excellent marble in the State. The 4th division of the encrinital limestone is a white, coarse- grained, crystalline marble, of great durability. It crops out in several places in Marion County. One of the best localities is in the bluffs of the Mississippi, between McFarlin's Branch and the Fabius. The lithographic limestone would furnish a hard, fine- grained, bluish-drab marble, that would contrast finely with white varieties in tesselated pavements for halls and courts. The Cooper marble of the Onondaga limestone has numerous pel- lucid crystals of calcareous spar disseminated through a drab, or bluish-drab, fine, compact base. It exists in great quantities on the La Mine, in Cooper, and on See's Creek, and in other places in Marion ; and it is admirably adapted to many ornamental uses. McPherson's marble, a bed of the Trenton limestone, situated in the vicinity of Rattlesnake Creek, is a hard, light-colored, compact lime- stone, intersected with numerous thin veins of transparent, calcareous spar, which give it a beautifully variegated surface when well polished. It appears to be strong and durable. McPherson's marble block, on Fourth Street, St. Louis, is constructed of it. Cape Girardeau marble is also a part of the Trenton limestone located near Cape Girardeau. It is nearly white, strong, and durable. There are several beds of very excellent marble in the magnesian limestone series. In sections 34 and 35 of township 34, range 3 east, are several beds of semi-crystalline, light-colored marbles, beautifully clouded with buff and flesh color. They receive a fine polish, are durable, and well fitted for many varieties of ornamental work and building purposes. But one of the most desirable of Missouri marbles is in the 3d magnesian limestone, on the Niangua. It is a fine-grained, crystalline, silico-magnesian limestone of a light drab, slightly tinged with peach-blossom, and beautifully clouded with the same hue or flesh color. It is twenty feet thick. This marble is rarely surpassed in the qualities which fit it for ornamental architecture. The beautiful Ozark marbles are well known. Some of them have been used in ornamenting the Capitol at Washington. The localities are very numerous throughout the Ozark region. There are also several other beds in this and the other magnesian limestones which are excellent marbles. Some are plain, while others are so clouded as to present the appearance of breccias. Granite. — Granite Knob will furnish any amount of a superior coarse granite, admirably adapted to all structures where durability and MINERAL RESOURCES. 151 strength are desirable. Its introduction to general use in St. Louis would add much to the architectural effects produced by her public and private edifices. Brick. — The pipe-clay and sands of the drift will furnish a large amount of the very best materials suitable for manufacturing the most durable and beautiful brick. The argillaceous portions of the bluff make a very good article. It is generally diffused, and is almost uni- versally employed for that purpose. Nearly every township in the State has an abundance of these clays. Fire-bricks are manufactured from the fire-clays of the lower coal series in St. Louis County. These bricks have the reputation of pos- sessing fine refractory properties. There are many beds of fire-clay in the coal measures ; and besides, some beds of the Hudson River group, in Ralls and Pike Counties; of the Hamilton group, in Pike and Marion; and of the vermicular sandstone and shales on North River, seem to possess all the qualities of the very best fire-clays. The quantity of these clays is great, almost beyond computation. No pos- sible demand could exhaust them. Fire-rock has often been observed. Some of the more silicious beds of the coal measures are very refractory, as many have discovered. The upper strata of the ferruginous sandstone, some arenaceous beds of the encrinital limestone, the upper part of the Chouteau limestone, and the fine-grained, impure beds of the magnesian limestones, all possess qualities which will enable them to withstand the action of fire. But the 2d and 3d sandstones are the most refractory rocks yet examined, and are well adapted to use where great strength and firmness are not demanded. They are used in the furnaces at Iron Mountain and Pilot Knob. Paints. — There are several beds of purple shales in the coal meas- ures which seem to possess the properties requisite for paints used in outside work. Nos. 10, 31, and 50 of this formation have shales of a bright-purple color and firm texture. But No. 10 possesses the best qualities. It has a more uniform texture and color, and is much more abundant than either of the others. This bed is exposed in the bluff opposite to Bethlehem; at Fort Kearney, in a bluff ten milee below that station, opposite Sonora ; at the mouth of the Little Ne- maha ; and at Dallas, Weston, and Parkville. Mr. Park, of the last place, has used it with oil, both alone and mixed with white-lead, for outside work ; and several years' exposure have proved it very durable. Its color is more brilliant when prepared with oil; but when mixed with white-lead it produces a dark, dull, peach-blossom color, which is very agreeable and appropriate for some purposes. Its properties as 152 MINERAL RESOURCES. a fire-proof paint were also tested by Mr. Park. An inch board was covered with a thick coat, when coals were burned upon the painted side until the whole thickness of the board was charred; but the paint remained firm and uncracked. He has also compared it in use with the famous Ohio paint, and thinks ours the best. At several of the above localities thousands of tons could be thrown from the beds into a boat lying in the river beneath. Cements. — All of the limestone formations in the State, from the coal measures to the 4th magnesian, have more or less strata of very nearly pure carbonate of lime, which will consequently make good quick-lime. But few if any of the States have such an abundance, and so general a distribution of this important article of domestic use. All the limestones whose physical characters indicated hydraulic properties have been collected, and some of them subjected to analysis. So far as can be judged from the results obtained, we have many beds of hydraulic limestone. Several beds of the coal measures are hydraulic* Vermicular Sandstone and Shales. — The middle beds are hydraulic, as indicated by the analysis. Lithographic Limestone. — The upper beds come in this class. Cape Girardeau Limestone. — The analysis and description show good hydraulic properties. Magnesian Limestones. — Several beds in these formations are hydraulic. Chouteau Limestone. — The upper division of this formation, as it is developed in Boone, Cooper, and Moniteau Counties, gives the best indications of excellent hydraulic properties. The beds are about thirty feet thick, and have a uniform texture and composition. These very much resemble the hydraulic strata at Louisville, and can furnish any desiral^le quantity. Vermicular Sandstone and Shales. — The middle beds of this form- ation, both in Marion and Cooper, have superior hydraulic properties. This is especially indicated by the dark-clouded beds which were passed through in sinking the well of Mr. Winston Walker, in Cooper. Hudson River Group. — The upper and lower beds of this formation give good evidence of being hydraulic. From present indications, the hydraulic limestones of our State may be expected to supply the home demand and furnish large quantities for exportation. ROAD MATERIALS. — In a country where the superficial deposits * See Second Annual Report, page 168. MINERAL RESOURCES. 153 make such bad roads it is a matter of no small importance to have an abundance of good materials for highways. The limestones, so abundant in the country, are much used for macadamized roads. But the rapid pulverization of liruerock, and the consequent mud and dust, particularly in towns and cities, render it very desirable to point out a more durable and economical substitute. The coarse gravels of the boulder formation and of the river beds furnish an abundance of the best possible substitute. These deposits contain gravels of any degree of fineness, from the sand suited to the formation of footpaths to the pebbles best adapted for carriage-ways. Any amount, of any given coarseness, may be obtained by screening, in all parts of the country, either from the drift or the river-beds. These pebbles have the advantage of limestones in several particulars : — 1st. They are more durable, being fragments of chert and the harder igneous and crystalline rocks, which have withstood the action of those unknown but all-powerful causes which have worn away and ground to dust so large a portion of our superficial rocks, and trans- ported to our territory such quantities of the rocks in situ, several hundred miles to the north. Those from the river-beds, also, have been exposed to aqueous action for unknown ages. 2d. They are less injurious to animals and carriages, as all the peb- bles are water-worn and rounded. 3d. By their use we should avoid the impalpable dust of the lime- stone, so injurious to health and property in our cities. We should, also, escape much of the mud, which is scarcely less objectionable. Should St. Louis but pave a single street with these pebbles, every person living or doing business upon it would at once see the differ- ence in comfort and health. The impalpable dust of the dry weather and the liquid mud of the wet, would no longer soil the furniture and goods of the houses and shops, and clog the lungs and disfigure the garments of those passing over it. Material could be obtained from various parts of the State. Good pebbles are abundant in the streams of Marion, Boone, Cooper, and Moniteau. The Osage and its tribu- taries can supply any needed quantity, and there can be no doubt that the Gasconade and the Maramec have a good supply of them in localities nearer St. Louis. Small steamers could easily reach bars made up of good pebbles, on the Osage, the La Mine, and other streams, and obtain a supply sufficient to meet all demands. Lithographic Limestone. — This is a very fine, compact, even- textured rock, which resembles the best lithographic stones so closely that hand-specimens of them can scarcely be distinguished. Messrs. Schaerff & Brother, of St. Louis, have tested this rock, 154 SPRINGS. and pronounced some parts of it good. Excellent slabs large enough for small engravings can be obtained with ease ; but the jointed struc- ture of the strata, and an occasional particle of iron pyrites, will make it difficult to get large slabs of suitable quality. SPRINGS. — We have a great abundance of Springs, both fresh and mineral. The fresh springs are very numerous in all parts examined, and' some of them are very large. Bryce's Spring, on the Niangua, is the largest observed. The quantity discharged was carefully measured, and it was ascertained that 455,328 cubic feet of water were discharged per hour, and 10,927,872 cubic feet per diem. The Gunter and Sweet Springs are not quite so large; and, what increases their value, the quantity and temperature of the water scarcely changes during the year. We have several varieties of mineral springs — chalybeate, sulphur, and brine. The most important chalybeate spring observed is in or beneath the ferruginous sandstone, west of Osceola. Salt springs are very generally diffused. The sulphur springs are also very abundant ; and a- few have acquired some considerable reputation for their sanitary qualities. Those most popular are the Chouteau Springs, in Cooper; the Elk Springs, in Pike ; and the Monagan Springs, in St. Clair. We have seen sulphur springs in Marion, Pike, Howard, Cooper, Saline, Benton, St. Clair, and St. Louis Counties. Petroleum Springs. — I am indebted to the Hon. Charles Sims for a bottle of petroleum, from what is commonly called Tar Spring^ situated about five miles west of Coldwater Grove, which is near the middle of the western boundary of Cass County. The petroleum usually rises with the water, and forms a stratum on its surface ; but, in drought, when the spring does not discharge water, it comes up in a pure state and fills the basin. AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES. 155 AGKICULTURAL RESOUECES OF MISSOURI. In determining the value of a country, wliether it be to secure national greatness or individual wealth and happiness, the character of the soil is of the first importance, as the largest portion of the wealth of individuals and the power of nations depend primarily upon the products of the earth ; and, indeed, without a good soil, no nation can hope to enjoy any permanent prosperity and greatness. It is doubtless true that the soil of Missouri surpasses that of any other equal portion of our continent in fertility and variety, and in adaptation to the varied wants of an enlightened people. While our soils and climate are surpassed by none for the production of corn, wheat, oats, grasses, hemp, and tobacco, nearly all the staple products of Europe and North America would do well in some parts of the State. In the northern part, the potato, the grasses, and cereals of the cooler northern States are most luxuriant; and in the southern portion we see the cane and cotton of the Sunny South; and in the central highlands, the cereals, grapes, and other fruits of Central and Southern Europe are yielding their rich harvests and delicious fruits as kindly as upon their chosen hills in Normandy and Italy. There are many varieties of Soil in the State. Some of them deserve a more detailed description. 1. Alluvial Soil. — This variety occupies the bottom lands of all our large streams. It is based upon the beds of sand, clay, and humus of the alluvial formation, above described, and is one of the most desirable and productive of all in the State. Its physical properties are such, it is so light and porous and deep, that in wet weather the superabundance of water readily passes off; while, in drought, the roots sink deep, and the water below easily ascends by capillary attraction and keeps the surface moist. These scientific deductions are abundantly sustained by the experience of those who have cultivated farms on it for the past twenty or thirty years. When the crops on the neighboring farms have been parched by drought or drowned by excessive rains, those of the bottom farms have never failed from these causes. The great fertility of this soil is very clearly shown by the tropical luxuriance of the natural vegetation. The timber is abundant and as large as any in the Mississippi valley. The most abundant trees are Cottonwood; sycamore; white and sugar maple; box-elder; slippery 156 AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES. and American elm; red birch; black, white, and blue ash; coffee- tree; wild-cherry; catalpa; cypress; sweet gum; tupelo ; buckeye; honey locust ; bur, white, swamp-white, rock chestnut, yellow, laurel, pin, red, and scarlet oaks; shellbark, thick shellbark, and pignut hickories; hackberry; papaw; red bud; black and white walnuts; linden; wild-plum; several willows; pecan; mulberry and red birch. The trumpet and Virginia creepers, the poison ivy, and several species of grapes almost cover with their graceful foliage many of the largest trees. The soil of the bottom prairies has nearly the same properties, and may be classed in the same variety. The soil occupies an area on the borders of the Mississippi, the Missouri, and our other large rivers of about 5,000,000 acres. The farms opened are usually cultivated in corn, wheat, hemp, and tobacco. The yield, even with our poor cultivation, is of corn, 15 to 20 barrels; wheat, 20 to 25 bushels; hemp, 10 to 12 hundred; and tobacco, 1500 to 2000 pounds per acre. 2. Bluff or Hemp Soil. — The bluff formation, where well developed, produces a light, deep calcareo-silicious soil, of the very best quality. The alumina, silex, and lime are mingled in such proportions with the other fertilizing properties in this formation as to adapt it, in an admirable degree, to the formation of soils and subsoils; and, as might be expected, the soils formed upon it, under favorable circum- stances, are equal to any in the country. The territory occupied by this soil is known as Hemp Land; it is most popular among Western farmers : and yet its great value is not fully appreciated. It is light and rich, and will improve rather than deteriorate with judicious culture. The marl beds, upon which it everywhere rests, will be the inexhaustible source of its fertility for all future time. This soil covers a greater or less portion of all the western counties of the State, from Cass to Atchison, and eastward to Howard. It is also found in some considerable areas in other portions of the State ; as in Marion and St. Louis Counties. It covers an area of some 8,000,000 acres. Hemp, corn, and tobacco are the staple crops. The surface of the country is high rolling prairie and timber, well watered and well drained. The timber most abundant is hackberry ; elm ; wild-cherry ; honey locust; common and pignut hickories; coffee-tree; bur, swamp- white and chestnut oaks ; black and white walnut ; mulberry ; papaw ; linden ; and grapes. 3. The bluff formation, where not fully developed, becomes more argillaceous and forms a soil somewhat inferior. On account of the AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES. 157 impervious nature of the clayey subsoil, it suffers more by drought and excess of rain. This is called Hickory Land in some parts of the State ; in others, Mulatto Soil. When timbered, the growth is usually shellbark and common hickories ; white, black, and scarlet oaks ; black walnut ; sugar-tree ; white and blue ash ; papaw; red and black haws; red bud ; linden; and grapes. The country is high and rolling ; and is about equally divided between prairie and timber. The crops most cultivated are corn, wheat, oats, rye, tobacco, and the grasses. Of the grasses, blue-grass, timothy, clover, and Hunga- rian grass are most in favor. This soil prevails in the northern, central, and southern portions of the State over an area of some 10,000,000 acres. This is esteemed by many the best wheat-land in the State. 4. Other portions of the State, underlaid by the bluff formation, are occupied by a soil somewhat inferior to the last. These portions are known as White-Oak Lands; and they usually abound on high ridges and steep slopes, where the rains of past centuries have washed away the finer and richer materials of the surface soil. The timber on the White-Oak Lands is usually white, post, black, gray, and black-jack oaks; and black hickory, dwarf sumach, and shellbark hickory often grow on the better portions. This soil was formerly more popular than at present. It produces wheat, rye, oats, corn, tobacco, and the grasses. Analyses show the subsoil much better than the surface ; and deep cultivation has much improved the crops on this variety of soil. It covers an area of some 5,000,000 acres in the State. 5. There is in the southern counties a reddish, marly clay, probably of the same age as the bluff, which is the foundation of a very pro- ductive and durable chocolate-colored soil. This soil, when not affected by the subjacent rocks, is very good, and sustains a fine growth of American, slippery, and Wahoo elms, honey locust; black cherry; mulberry; black gum; hackberry ; white, red, black, bur, chestnut, rock chestnut, and laurel oaks; common and shellbark hickories ; crab-apple ; black and red haws ; papaw ; white and blue ashes ; black walnut. This variety of soil abounds in many of the southern counties. It is well represented in the neighborhood of Farmington, St. Fran9ois County, in the beautiful valley of Arcadia, south of Pilot Knob, in the Kickapoo and other rich prairies of Southwestern Missouri, and in the rich valleys and slopes of the whole Ozark range or highlands of Southern Missouri, where it probably covers 1,000,000 acres in all. 158 AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES. This soil is very productive and durable. It yields fine crops of corn, wheat, oats, tobacco, and even hemp. Cotton is sometimes grown upon it. 6. The red marl or clay beds upon which this soil rests are often so thin that the lime, magnesia, sand, and flints of the subjacent mag- nesian limestones and sandstones mingle with and greatly modify this fifth variety of soil. When the flints are not too abundant, this soil is very productive. The ingredients above named render it very light, dry, and still tenacious of moisture. It yields all our staple crops but hemp, and is the best possible soil for fruit culture. Apples, grapes, peaches, pears, quinces, plums, cherries, blackberries, straw- berries, raspberries, and many other varieties of fruit are produced with great success on this soil. This variety may occupy some 4,000,000 acres, principally in the highlands of Southern Missouri. 1. But where this soil is thin, and filled with the chert and sand of the subjacent limestones and sandstones, it becomes very poor, and sustains a scattered growth of black, white, post, and black-jack oaks ; black hickory ; sumachs and hazels. Only a stunted growth of post oak, black-jack, black hickory, dwarf sumachs, and American hazel, is found on the poorest ridges. • These cherty hills and ridges are prevalent in all the southern counties, except those on the western, eastern, and southeastern borders of the State. This soil is not used for ordinary cultivation. It is reserved for pasture and timber. The better portions may be made the most profitable of all our soils for the cultivation of the grape and other fruits. It covers an area of some 6,000,000 acres in Southern Missouri. 8. In some of the southern counties the sandstones of the mag- nesian limestone series have rendered the soil very sandy and light, and almost useless for the ordinary farming purposes. This soil pro- duces the yellow pine, and is known as the Pine Lands or Pineries of Southern Missouri. The area occupied is not determined — it may be 2,000,000 acres. Such is a very brief description of the most important varieties of soil in Missouri. With 41,000,000 acres of such soils in a climate warm and salubrious, we have a foundation for wealth and prosperity such as few States or countries can boast. With proper cultivation it will be a source of unbounded wealth to this and many future gen- erations. A few figures will give us some idea of what our State is caj TIMBER AND TREES. 159 of producing from its soil alone. With only one-half of the State in cultivation it would easily yield com 8,000,000 acres of corn, at 10 barrels per acre 400,000,000 bushels. 3,000,000 acres of wheat, at 10 bushels per acre 30,000,000 1,000,000 acres of oats, at 20 bushels per acre 20,000,000 " 2,000,000 acres of hay, at 2 tons per acre 4,000,000 tons. 1,000,000 acres of hemp, at 8 hundred per acre 8,000,000 liundreds. 1,000,000 acres of tobacco, at 10 hundred per acre. 10,000,000 " 3,000,000 acres of grapes, at 200 gallons per acre. ..000,000,000 gallons. 1,000,000 acres in other fruit would yield enough to supply all the demands of a dense population. Such are the crops our rich domain might easily yield to reward the labors of the farmer, and feed the millions who will ere long be working out and manufacturing our vast mineral resources. And yet these figures are below, far below the results obtained by our good farmers. TIMBER AND TREES OF MISSOURI. The broad, rich bottoms of all the streams in the State sustain a very heavy growth of most excellent timber of nearly all the most useful varieties — cottonwood ; bur, red, laurel, pine, and swamp white oaks ; black and white walnuts ; white, blue, and black ashes ; white red, and Wahoo elms ; red birch ; honey locust ; buck-eye ; box-elder ; black cherry; hackberry; pignut, and common and thick shellbark hickories ; red bud ; sugar and white maples ; mulberry ; American plum; hazel; papaw; sycamore; Muscadine, summer, and fox grapes ; and several species of thorn and willow are most abundant. In the southeastern counties we also have an abundance of cypress, tupelo, yellow gum, catalpa, overcup and Spanish oaks, strawberry- tree, cross vine, water locust, spice bush, and cane. A large portion of the upland of the central, northern, eastern, and western parts of the State has a very heavy growth of white, black, bur, post, black-jack, chestnut, laurel, scarlet, and swamp white oaks ; white and black walnuts ; sugar-tree; mulberry; honey locust; com- mon shellbark, thick shellbark, and pignut hickories ; pecan ; linden ; American and slippery elms ; cherry ; coffee-tree ; hackberry ; white and blue ashes; red bud; dogwood; papaw; red cedar; haws, and grapes. In the south we also have the beech, tulip-tree, (erroneously called ^'poplar,'^^) sweet gum, holly, yellow pine, and Wahoo elm. 160 TIMBER AND TREES. But other portions of the north, and a large part of the south, are sparsely timbered with small black-jacks, post oaks, and black hicko- ries, forming beautiful oak-openings. This stunted growth is not, however, due to the poverty of the soil, but to the fires which have annually overrun this country since the earliest dates of the Indian traditions. These fires, fed by the rank annual growth of grasses and other herbaceous plants, have entirely destroyed some of the young trees, while they have scorched and very much retarded the growth of those sufficiently vigorous to withstand their ravages. Large areas, particularly those underlaid by sandstones, are covered by very extensive and valuable forests of the yellow pine. These pine forests are very extensive in many of the southern counties, and annually yield a large supply of most excellent lumber. The growth is very large on the rich soils of the State, as the fol- lowing measurements of trees show: — In Howard County, a white oak measured 28 feet in circumference. In Howard County, a grape vine measured 3 feet in circumference. In Stoddard County, a beech, Fagu% ferruginea, 18 feet in circum- ference, and 100 feet high. In Dunklin County, a catalpa, Catalpa hignonioides, 10 feet in circumference, and 90 feet high. In Stoddard County, a tupelo, Nyssa grandidentata, 30 feet in circumference, and 120 feet high. In Pemiscot County, an elm, Ulmus Americana, 22 feet in circum- ference, and 100 feet high. In Pemiscot County, a cypress, Taxodium distichum, 29 feet in circumference, and 125 feet high. In Cape Girardeau County, a sweet gxxm, Liquidamhar styracifiua, 15 feet in circumference, and 130 feet high. In Cape Girardeau County, a white ash, Fraxinus Americana, 18 feet in circumference, and 110 feet high. In Mississippi County, a Spanish oak, Quercus faJcata, 28 feet in circumfei'cnce, and 110 feet high. In Mississippi County, a sycamore, Platanus occidentalis, 43 feet in circumference, and the hollow was 15^ by 13 feet in diameter. These facts, and the following catalogue of trees and shrubs, show the great value and variety of our vast forests. There is no physical reason why St. Louis should not export several times as much lumber as she now imports. Though Bangor, in Maine, exports more lumber than any city on this continent, and, perhaps, more than any in the world, the forests which supply it are located at a greater distance, and on sti'eams much more impracticable than ours in Missouri. TIMBER AND TREES. 161 It seems unnecessary to specify where good localities exist, for there is scarcely a stream in the State which is not bordered oy forests of excellent timber. The Missouri, the Osage and all its tributaries. Spring River, Gasconade, Grand, Chariton, St. Francois, White, La Mine, South, North, Salt, and Fabius Rivers, are bordered with mag- nificent forests of the trees peculiar to the alluvium and upland slopes. All of these streams, save the Missouri, furnish water-power and good mill-sites, and even the large springs of the Niangua afford the best water-power and mill-sites observed in the State. But steam has usually proved the most economical power for the manufacture of lumber, as the site can be selected with greater advantage. CATALOGUE OF TREES AND SHRUBS OBSERVED IN MISSOURI. Alder. Common Alder, Alnns serulata. — Near streams. Winter Berry, Prinos Isevigatus. — In wet, wooded bottoms.* Black Alder, Prinos verticillatus. — In wet woods, Apple. Crab-apple, Malus coronaria. — On borders of prairies. ;. Angelica Tree. Angelica Tree or Hercules' Club, Aralia spinosa. — In dry soil. Ash. White Ash, Fraxinus Americana. — In good soil. Black Ash, Fraxinus sambucifolia. — Not abundant. Blue Ash, Fraxinus quadrangulata. — On good soil. Prickly Ash, Zanthoxylum Americanum. — In bottoms and moist places. Basswood. American Linden or Lime, Tilia Americana. — In rich soils, not very abundant. Large-leaved Linden or Lime, Tilia heterophylla (J).-\ — Very common in rich soil. * When no localities are given, the species is generally diffused through the State, -wherever appropriate soils occur. ■}■ This tree agrees very nearly with Nuttall's, but the leaves are less tomen- tose; it also differs from Michaux's alba, in having the peduncles subdivided. 11 162 TIMBER AND TREES. Beech. Beech, Fagiis ferruginea. — Common in the southeast. Birch. Red Birch, River Birch, Betula rubra. — On the borders of streams. Blackberry. Low Blackberry or Dewberry, Ruhus Canadensis. — In open forests. Wedge-leaved Blackberry, Bubus cuneifolius. — On the bord- ers of prairies. Bladder-nut. American Bladder-nut, Staphylea trifolia. — Under bluffs and in ravines. Buckeye. Ohio Buckeye, Aesculus Ohioensis (?). — On the borders of streams. Large Buckeye, Aesculus lutea. — In low rich soil. Blueberry. Blueberry, Vaccinium vacillans. — Dry hills in Taney. Huckleberry, Vaccinium (?). — Dry hills in Taney. Box-elder. Box-elder or Ash-leaved Maple, Negundo aceroides. — In rich bottoms. Burning- Bush. Burning Bush, Euonymus atropurpureus. — Very beautiful when in fruit. Buttonwood. Sycamore, Platanus occidentalis. — In the bottoms of all our streams. Button-Bush. Button-Bush, Cephalanthus occidentalis. — In wet places. Catalpa. Catalpa, Catalpa bignonioides. — In the southeast. Cedar. Red Cedar, Juniperus Virginiana. — On dry limestone bluffs. Cherry. Choke Cherry, Cerasus Virginiana. — In northern prairies. Black or Wild Cherry, Cerasus serotina. — On the best soils. TIMBER AND TREES. 163 Chestnut. Chestnut, Castanea vesca. — In the southeast. CofFee-tree. CoFFEE-TEEE, Gi/mnocladus Canadensis. — In rich soil. Cottonwood. Cottonwood, Populus Canadensis (?). — In bottoms. Coral-berry. Coral-berry or Indian Currant, Symphoricarpus vulgaris. — Everywhere. Cross-vine. Cross- VINE, Bignonia capreolata. — In southern swamps. Currant. Currant, Rihes. — Several species, but none are abundant. Cypress. Cypress, Taxodium distichum. — In swamps. Dogwood. Flowering Dogwood, Cornus fi