S-V ^ • ^o Il> ^ * QMS • %£> ^ ♦ «(CVs» A* ^ ; : j°+ >• 5? V-o^ * £°+ ^ • •V '. "W * %/ -'life ** ^% Vf§gi? or nearly 19| cents ; and that of the sous, a cop- per coin, was ^ of a cent. At Marseilles, the writer received only 1002 francs for a circular draft of £40 sterling ; making a difference of more than f of 1 per cent, in favor of Paris, and thus much increasing the cost of the coins above named. Accordingly, he would recommend that travellers should draw in Paris not only a sufficient sum to last them to Marseilles ; but that they should take a large surplus, including more than enough to pay their passage to Rome or Naples, if bound that way ; and the premium and risk on gold may be lessened by taking notes of the Bank of France to pay the passage- money, but not to use in Italy, where they are not cur- rent. French gold is more widely circulated on the continent than any other kind of money whatever. It is well, therefore, to keep a moderate amount of it in re- serve, during the whole continental tour. In Naples, the writer received of Messrs. Turner & Co., 142 piastres, or Neapolitan dollars, and 78 grani or grains, for £30 sterling; the grain being -^ of the FUNDS. 19 piastre. Hence the piastre, or Neapolitan dollar, cost $1.03^- of American money; and the carlin, being T \ of the piastre, cost 8| cents, very nearly ; while the grano, or grain, being ^ of this, costs T \% of a cent. The Spanish dollar, there called a colomiato, from the columns stamped upon it, was passing for 12| carlins, and there- fore cost $1.0T T 4 o 6 oi though its value in silver was only $1, as with us. But the risk and trouble of carrying silver from New-York to Naples, would probably be worth all of 7^ per cent. ; and the loss must be sustained in one shape or the other. Messrs. Iggulden & Co., in Naples, allowed 574 grains to the pound sterling, but charged only \ per cent, commission ; whereas Messrs. Turner & Co. allowed 575 grains to the pound, but charged 1 per cent, commission ; so that the terms of Messrs. Iggulden & Co. were rather more favorable of the two. In Rome, the writer received from the banker Tor- Ionia, 196 scudi, or Roman dollars, for £40 sterling; these dollars being nominally the same as the Spanish dollar ; but they are not current out of the Papal States, while the Spanish dollar is. Hence, the cost of the Roman scudo or dollar was$1.00§; making the paul, which is one-tenth of a scudo, worth very nearly 10 cents; and the oaioccho, or hundreth part of a scudo, worth very nearly 1 cent. But Spanish dollars were at a premium of 3 per cent. ; and hence cost nearly $1.03| each, if pur- chased in Rome. In Florence, the writer received of Maquay & Pack- enham 2,250 Tuscan pauls for £50 sterling ; or 45 Tuscan 20 GENERAL REMARKS. pauls per pound. Hence the cost of the Tuscan paul was 10 t 9 /q cents; and the Francesconi or Tuscan dollar, of 10 pauls, cost $1.09 1 of American money. The same bankers charged 36} Tuscan pauls for a Napoleon; the cost of which in Florence was therefore $3.97^. The writer found no Tuscan copper coins in use, the Eoman baioccho circulating instead. At Bologna, the Papal money was again current, though the Austrian zwanzigers here began to make their appearance. In Bologna 23 \ zwan- zigers were allowed for a Napoleon ; but in Padua only 22 ; French gold being here at the greatest discount or depreciation. In Venice, the writer received of Messrs. Schielin, Freres (the Brothers Schielin), 293 zwanzigers, or Austrian lire, for £10 sterling. This made the cost of the zwan- ziger, or Austrian lira, 16/^ cents. But calling after- wards on Messrs. Blumenthal & Co., they allowed 298 zwanzigers for £10 sterling, on the circular orders of Messrs. Duncan, Sherman & Co., at which rate the cost of the zwanziger was 16 T 5 B 5 o cents. No Austrian gold coin was in circulation, but zwanzigers were current, as in Austria, all the way to Switzerland. The coinage of Switzerland, like that of Sardinia and Belgium, is now assimilated to that of France ; the Swiss franc and five-franc piece being of the same value as the French. The rate allowed to the writer in Geneva, Berne, and Basle, was intermediate between those of Paris and Marseilles ; and at Basle a premium of one-half per cent, was charged for Napoleons. In the Grand Duchy of Baden, as in Bavaria and Wur- FUNDS. 21 temburg, the current silver coin is the gulden, or Bavarian florin, which is subdivided into 60 kreuzers, and is reck- oned to be worth 2 francs and 15 centimes, or 2 francs and 3 sous. The Napoleon should pass for 9 guldens and 20 or 30 kreuzers, according to the premium which it may command ; but taking the lower of these rates, and comparing it with the value of Napoleons at Basle, the cost of a gulden, or Bavarian florin, would be 42 j cents very nearly ; and the hreuzer would be a little more than two-thirds of a cent. The five-franc piece passes in Baden for 2 guldens and 20 kreuzers ; or the franc for 28 kreu- zers : and the Austrian zwanziger passes here for 24 kreuzers ; or 2i zwanzigers to a gulden. The vereins thaler, or union dollar of Bavaria, being equal to 3 guldens and 30 kreuzers, would cost, at the above rate, $1.47 of American money. In Prussia, and of course in the Prussian states on the Rhine, the current coin is the Prussian thaler, or dollar, which is subdivided into 30 silver-groschen : and a Napo- leon passes for 5 Prussian thalers and 12 silver-groschen ; or the 5-franc piece for 1 thaler and 10 silver-groschen ; the franc being reckoned at 8 silver-groschen. Hence, a Prussian thaler costs nearly 73 cents ; and a silver-gros- chen costs nearly 2| cents of American money. The gul- den of Bavaria passes for 17 silver-groschen; and the piece of 2 guldens, for 1 thaler and 4 silver-groschen: the silver-groschen being equal to 3^ kreuzers, very nearly. In Holland, the current coin is the guilder, or Dutch florin, the true value of which is the same as that of the gulden of Bavaria. It is subdivided into 20 stivers, or 22 GENERAL REMARKS. 100 cents : the stiver being equal to 5 Dutch cents. The Napoleon passes for 9 guilders and 7 to 9 stivers ; a five- franc piece passing for 2 guilders and 6 stivers, or 30 cents; and the franc being reckoned at 9^ stivers, or 9 stivers and 1 cent. Hence the cost of the guilder is about 42 cents, and that of the stiver about 2 cents of American money ; while the Dutch cent is less than half a cent of our own. In Belgium, the currency is the same as in France, the Belgian franc and five-franc piece being of equal value with the French. In Brussels, the writer received of Messrs. Brugmaun, Fils, at the rate of 1007 francs, nearly, for £40 sterling; this being the net receipt, as in the preceding instances, after the commission had been de- ducted. Being about to proceed to England, and wishing to purchase sovereigns, the price charged for them was 25 r 3 o 5 ff francs ; so that the cost of English gold, thus cir- cuitously obtained, was $4.96} cents per sovereign, or pound sterling. This price was paid only for a sufficient sum to reach London, where the original draft, or letters of credit, would be directly available. Thus much the writer has thought it proper and sufficient to say, in re- gard to funds and currency, in this place. § 4. — Expenses. The expense of travelling in Europe will, of course, de- pend upon the style and manner of travelling. A pedes- trian, for example, who has time in abundance, with but little money, may pursue his way at less than half the EXPENSES. 23 daily expense which he would incur in travelling rapidly by costly conveyances. The charge at the first-class hotels is often double, or more than double that at respectable houses of less pretension and inferior accommodations. The contingent expenses of travelling may be increased or diminished very much at the will of the traveller ; al- though many of them are unavoidable, and many others are expedient, having reference to economy of time as well as of money, and a due regard to the great objects of travelling. A gentleman, extravagantly inclined, may expend more money for wine and tobacco alone, than would enable an economist to travel respectably, and see the greatest curiosities of Europe, with the same expen- diture of time. It should be added, that in carriage-hire, admission fees, and the procuring of guides, there is a considerable saving when a party of two, three, or four gentlemen travel together, and divide these expenses among them. To give more definite information : if the traveller is willing to dispense with a trunk and carry his own carpet bag ; to put up at obscure hotels, and accept of meaner fare, or to take retired lodgings, and feed at the restau- rants ; to walk about the cities, except an occasional ride in the omnibuses ; stinting himself in fees of admission as well as in regard to guides and servants, and only travel- ling from place to place in the cheapest conveyances, he may itinerate in Europe at an expense of not more than two or three dollars per day, and, in some parts, even less. It is no disgrace to travel in this manner, for those who find it necessary ; although they would probably 24 GENERAL REMARKS. receive less attention, and enjoy fewer privileges in con- sequence. Nevertheless, this is not the manner in which a gentleman, or one possessing self-respect as well as curiosity, would wish to travel : and, accordingly, those who have the means will prefer to expend from jive to eight dollars per day in England, and from four to six dollars per day on the Continent, according as they travel at leisure or more rapidly : the latter being, of course, more expensive. A gentleman travelling on the continent with a courier, would wish to expend $10 or $12 per day, besides any purchases that he might make ; but, without a courier, and especially travelling with a party of gen- tlemen, $200 per month would be a very liberal allowance for the whole time spent in Europe, not including the passage thither and back. This would make the expense of a six months' tour in Europe, including the passage both ways in a steamer, about $1,500; which sum would also suffice for clothing, and some small purchases beside, if the traveller were economical. For ladies, the expense would probably be greater, unless they also should choose to study and practise economy. As it will probably be satisfactory to enter into some details on this subject, the following specimens are given of the expenses of foreign travelling. The passage from New-York to Liverpool, or Havre, by steamer, taking the first-class cabin, is $120 ; whereas, by the best packet ships, it is not more than $75. The return passage of the first-class is $148, or £30 sterling, by steamer, and $100 by the best packet sailing ships. It is customary, besides, to present small gratuities to the servants, usually one EXPENSES. 25 or two dollars each to the state-room waiter and table waiter, and fifty cents, or more, to the boot-black, who, in England, is popularly called " boots." The passage, by the express train, from Liverpool to London, is £2 5s., or $11.10 ; by the accommodation train, first-class cars, £1 17s., or $9.12; and by the second-class cars, £1 7s., or $6.66 ; the usual rate on the English railroads being about six cents per mile in the first-class cars, and four cents per mile in the second-class cars of the accommo- dation trains ; while the express trains, being more rapid, are higher. It should be added, that travelling in Great Britain is more expensive, in general, than on the Conti- nent, by some 25 or 30 per cent. Most English hotels have no ordinary, or table d'h6te, but each traveller calls for what he pleases, eats at a separate table, and pays accordingly. Each servant who waits on the traveller expects a fee at least daily ; and it is preferable that these fees should be included in the landlord's bill, unless " boots " be an exception, who generally acts as porter, and expects a fee for bringing down the baggage on its departing, if not one for carrying it up on its arrival. The following may be stated as the customary charges in the hotels of Great Britain ; the lower rate being for those in the smaller towns, and the latter for the first-class hotels in the largest cities. Break- fast, 2s. to 4s. ; dinner, 2s. Qd. to 5s. ; tea, Is. 6d. to 3s. ; swpjper, 2s. to 4s. ; ted (that is to say, apartment), Is. 6<7. to 4s., and servants, Is. Gd. to 3s. 6d. ; all wines or liquors being extra charges. From this it will be seen, that, taking three meals in the day, including tea, but not 26 GENERAL REMARKS. supper, and no wines or liquors, the expense at ordinary hotels will be about 9s., or $2.25 per day, and may easily amount to $3 ; while, at the most expensive hotels in the largest cities, such as Fenton's, Morley's, or the " Golden Cross," in London, it will not be less than £1 sterling, or $5, per day, and may easily amount to $6 or $8. At the same time, comfortable private lodgings in London may probably be obtained, with the necessary meals, for $12 or $14 per week. This, of course, does not include the items of washing, shaving, or hair-dress- ing, and the like ; and an extra charge is sometimes made for lights, as well as for fuel in cold weather. To these necessary expenses of living are to be added those of sight-seeing, including carriage hire, or omnibus fare, ad- mission fees, catalogues, and the like, which may be much reduced, or they may easily swell the expense of living in London to $8 or $10 per day. In Paris, the charge for transient travellers, at the first-class hotels is about 3 francs for breakfast ; 5 francs for dinner ; 2 francs for coffee, usually taken instead of tea ; 3 or 4 francs for bed, or apartment, and 1* francs for servants; besides extras for fruit or wines, fuel, lights, soap, washing, and the like. Accordingly, the necessary expenses of living at a superior hotel in Paris are some- thing more than $3 per day, and may be easily increased ; but comfortable accommodations may be obtained, for half this sum, in more retired quarters. The expenses of sight- seeing in Paris are also less than in London, as the admis- sion to many public places is gratuitous ; so that $5 per day in Paris will go quite as far as $7 in London. In EXPENSES. 27 the smaller cities of France the expenses are still less than in Paris ; and travelling on the French railroads is de- cidedly cheaper than on the English for the same class of cars. The same remark is true of the railroads, and of travelling generally on the Continent. But the writer paid 179 francs, or nearly $35, for a first-class passage by steamer from Marseilles to Naples, including provisions on board for nearly four days. In Naples, the following were the expenses of the writer's party, three in number, for a day's excursion westward, to the ruins of Cuma and Baia?, and the neigh- boring curiosities. Carriage-hire, 3 piastres, or 360 grains; lunch, 130 grains; guide, 125 grains; coachman, extra, 60 grains ; Grotto del Cane, 30 grains ; Sybil's Cave carriers, 100 grains; torches, 40 grains ; Nero's Bath, 100 grains ; Solfatara, 25 grains ; smaller fees, collectively, 40 grains ; total, 1010 grains, or 8 piastres and 50 grains: i. e., 8 piastres and 5 carlins ; costing $8.68 in all, or $2.89 for each person; while respectable, but not superior, boarding was to be had at $1.50 or $2 per day. The excursion to Mount Vesuvius was more expensive ; that to Pompeii less so. The expense of a vettura, or private carriage, from Capua to Koine, for the same party, was $33, or $11 for each person, including dinners for three days on the way. In Pvome, the charges at the Hotel de l'Europe, Piazza di Spagna, were about $3 per day for each person, with superior fare and accommodations ; and there, as in Na- ples, or in Venice, the pay of a guide was about $1 per day; carriage hire within the city of Pvome being at 2 pauls, or about 20 cents per hour. Admission fees to 28 GENERAL REMARKS. palaces, and gratuities in churches, which in Naples were usually 2 carlins for the former, and one for the latter, were in Borne 2 pauls and 1 paul respectively, and in Venice 1 zwanziger or lira Austriacha each. These may serve as specimens of the expense of travelling in Europe, and are deemed sufficient by way of preliminary infor- mation. § 5. — Passports. TnE American traveller may visit Great Britain, and travel all over it, without a passport ; but if he wishes to travel any where on the continent of Europe, a passport is indispensable. The object of this document, is to es- tablish the character of its owner, as a citizen of the United States, and to secure for him the respect and pro- tection which he may justly claim. The form of it is as follows, neatly engraved. "TnE United States of America, to all to wnon) THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, GREETING : \ I, the undersigned, Secretary of State of the United States of America, hereby request all whom it may con- cern, to permit safely and freely to pass [A. B.] a Citizen of the United States, and in case of need to give him all lawful Aid and Protection. ,-^a^s Given under my hand and the impression of the Seal of the Department of State at the l. s. J- City of Washington, the day of ■ , , in the year of the Indepen- dence of the United States. In the margin is a description of the owner, under the heads of age, stature, forehead, eyes, nose, mouth, chin, EXPENSES. 29 hair, complexion, and face, with the signature of the bearer, to be added by himself. In regard to obtaining a passport, the following in- structions have been printed as a circular, and are issued from the Department of State, at Washington, under date of April, 1850. " Citizens of the United States visiting foreign coun- tries, are liable to serious inconvenience, if unprovided with authentic proof of their national character. The best security against this is a passport from the Depart- ment of State, certifying the bearer to be a citizen of the United States ; which passports are issued gratis, upon application supported by proof of citizenship. This proof need be transmitted but once. On all subsequent occa- sions, a simple reference to it, and to the period when it was presented, will be sufficient. " When the applicant is a native citizen of the United States, he must transmit an affidavit of this fact, stating his age and place of birth, signed by him, and sworn to by himself, and one other citizen of the United States named therein, to whom he is personally known, and to the best of whose knowledge and belief the declaration made by him is true. This affidavit must be attested by a Notary Public, under his signature and seal of office. When there is no Notary in the place, the affidavit may be made before a Justice of the Peace, or other officer authori- zed to administer oaths. If the applicant be a naturalized citizen, his certificate of naturalization must be transmitted for inspection. It will be returned with the passport. _ "The application should be accompanied with a descrip- tion of the person, stating the following particulars, viz. : Age : years. Stature : feet, inches, (Eng- lish measure). Forehead: . Eyes: . Nose: . Mouth: . Chin: . Hair: . Com- plexion : . Face : . When the applicant is to be accompanied by his wife, children, or servants, or by any females under his protection, it will be sufficient to state the name and ages of such persons, and their relationship to the applicant. 30 GENERAL REMARKS. " Persons who leave the country, expecting to obtain passports, whilst abroad, from the Diplomatic or Consular agents of the United States, are liable to disappointment ; inasmuch as it is the duty of those agents to observe the utmost caution in granting documents in the nature of a certificate of citizenship, to those persons only who are certainly known to be entitled to them ; and it is some- times difficult, if not impracticable, to procure proof of this fact in a foreign country. " Certificates of citizenship or passports issuing from the State Authorities, or from the Judicial or the Municipal Functionaries of our country, are not recognized by the officers of foreign governments ; and if the Diplomatic and Consular agents of the United States are called upon to certify to the authenticity of such document, they can- not do this, for want of that official information in regard to those authorities and functionaries, and to their respect- ive signatures and seals of office, which is indispensably necessary in the case of every such certificate." Accordingly, the following is a proper form to be filled up, and executed, and forwarded to the Department o State, by any native citizen of the United States, in order to obtain a passport. State of County ?! [A. B.], of the town of •, in the county of , and State of , being duly sworn, declares that he is a native citizen of the United States ; that he is years of age ; that he was born in the town of , in the county of , and State of ; and refers to , of the town of , in the county of and state of , to whom he is personally known. Subscribed and sworn be- fore me, this , day of , 1853. Notary Public (or Justice of the Peace.) EXPENSES. 31 State or — County. [C. D.], of the town of , in the county of and State of , being duly sworn, declares that he is acquainted with [A. B.], above named, and that to the best of his knowledge and belief, the declaration above made by the said [A. B.], is true. Subscribed and sworn } before me this > day of ,1853. ) Notary Public, (or Justice of the Peace.) The following is a correct description of the person of the above named [A. B.]. (See the items already men- tioned.) Attest, Notary Public, (or Justice, &c.) If the traveller proceed to the Continent by the way of England, he must have his passport countersigned in London, at the office of the American Minister, by the American Secretary of Legation ; for which no charge is made : and if proceeding to France, the passport must also be vised by the French Consul, that is to say, it must receive his signature, as having seen it and thus authen- ticated it as genuine, which signature is called a visa, and for which a charge is made of about $1.50, including the folding up of the passport in a little manuscript book, like a pocket-book, not only for convenience of carriage, but also to receive the subsequent visas, which, in the course of a tour, will till quite a volume.* * The writer's passport was here folded over the edges of 32 GENERAL REMARKS. In Paris it is again necessary to procure the signature of the American Secretary of Legation, which is gratu- itous ; and after this, that of the Prefect of Police : and, if proceeding to Italy .by way of Genoa or Turin, the visa of the Sardinian Legation should also be procured, and perhaps that of the Tuscan ; but of this information may be obtained at the American embassy. The writer pro- cured both these visas, at a charge of seven francs ; and that of the police was three francs ; making the expense of passports for each person, in Paris, about $2. It is only necessary for the traveller to visit in person the office of the American embassy ; as the visas of the police and of foreign embassies may be procured by means of a commis- sionaire, or agent, such as will be found at all the princi- pal hotels. Proceeding to Italy by way of Marseilles, the charges in that city were, for the visa of the American Consul, ten francs, but gratuitous to clergymen, through the po- liteness of Mr. Hodge ; for the Eoman visa, three and a half francs, and for the Neapolitan, six ; that of the police being gratis, and the commissioner charging three francs for his services ; so that the charge on each passport at Marseilles, for Italy, was twenty-two and a half francs, or nearly $4£, besides the expense in Paris. At Naples, the charges on each passport were, for the American Consul, $2 ; the police, sixty cents ; the Papal Nuncio, sixty the first MS. leaf, whereby it was exposed to wear, and was afterwards actually worn through at the foldings ; whereas it should have been folded smaller than the leaf, and then the edges would have been protected. This may be done by giving proper directions, at Lee's, 440 Strand, London. EXPENSES. 33 cents ; the permit of sojourn, sixty cents ; the office of Foreign Affairs, $1 ; and the commissioner, sixty cents ; making a total of $5.40 : and there were additional charges on the way, by land, from Naples to Borne. In Rome, the charges were, for the American Consul, $2 ; the police, sixty cents ; the Tuscan legation, fifty cents ; and the commissioner or agent, forty cents ; making a total of $3.50 for each passport. At Florence, the charge for visas was about $1.50 for each passport ; and these, being the heaviest items, may suffice to give some idea of the expense of passports, especially to those who travel in Italy. When passing from place to place on the Con- tinent, the passport should be carried about the person, and in a safe pocket, remembering that the loss of it may subject the traveller to very great inconvenience. The writer was favored, besides the ordinary passport, with a courier's or cabinet passport, as a bearer of dis- patches; and had been told that it would be of great ad- vantage, especially in exempting his baggage from search by the custom-house officers. But such was not the result in his case ; and he found himself burthened with a bag of dispatches, containing letters, papers, &c, from the Department of State, with no immunity or remune- ration in return, except the privilege of going ashore with the mails at Liverpool and leaving his baggage behind, to be searched when sent for ; a privilege of which he did not choose to avail himself. Accordingly, except on the score of patriotism, or on other conditions than those above named, he cannot advise any fellow-countryman to seek or accept the office of Bearer of Dispatches. Fear- 3 34 GENERAL REMARKS. ing that the fault might he his own, the writer asked the British custom-house officer at Liverpool, whether im- munities were not allowed to those bearing dispatches, and was distinctly answered, None, except that above named. § 6. Custom- Houses. Among the annoyances to which the traveller in Europe is subjected, is that of custom-house examinations of baggage at every frontier. It may have one good effect, however, to make him appreciate more highly the ad- vantages which accrue to our own country from its being not a group of nations, or isolated governments, nor merely a confederation ; but a combination of United States. Supposing that every traveller who goes from New- York to Boston or Philadelphia, were obliged to stop at some place on the way, or at least on arriving, and after waiting his turn, were to have his trunk opened and ransacked by a custom-house officer ; this would be but a specimen of what he must continually meet with, and submit to, while travelling in Europe. The writer first experienced this annoyance on arriv- ing at Liverpool; when all the passengers were detained on board the steamer from seven o'clock in the evening until near midnight, before the examination of trunks, carpet-bags, band-boxes, hat-boxes, and other boxes, was completed. All tobacco found in the same was charged a very high duty, intended to be prohibitory; so that some of the passengers gave up the article rather than pay the sum demanded. There was a duty also on CUSTOM-HOI 81 35 daguerreotypes, and similar works of art. American books were charged a duty of about 11 cents per lb. weight ; and American reprints of English books were confiscated without reprieve, if they were found recorded in the lists of copyright works. Thus, copies of even original American books, if they have been copyrighted in England, are seized and destroyed by the custom-house officers : a harsh but necessary mode of protection. In short the principle adopted appeared to be, that whatever the passenger might have, in the nature of merchandise, should pay duty ; Avhile those things alone which were the necessary appendages of travelling might go free. The following is a list of British duties on some of the chief articles which a traveller would be likely to have in possession. Precious stones not set, specimens of natural history, bronze works of art, casts of statues, models in cork wood, manuscripts, maps and charts, bullion, silver or gold coins, and medals, antique vases, living animals, plants, trees, and seeds, are admitted duty free. Agates or cornelians when set, beads, brocade, brass and bronze furniture, carriages, cashmere shawls, china, clocks and watches, cotton, linen and woollen articles of dress, furniture, furs and skins made up, japanned ware, jewelry, lace, mosaic work, musical instruments, perfumery, scagliola tables, and toys, pay a duty of ten per cent, ad valorem. Gold or silver plate must pay, in addition to this, a stamp duty of Is. fid. per ounce. Alabaster sculpture is charged 3s. per cwt.; mod- ern continental books, £5 per cwt. ; cameos, 5 per cent, ad valorem ; copper coins, 10s. per cwt. ; embroidery, 20 36 GENERAL REMARKS. per cent, ad valorem ; glass when cut, 4 of Waterloo Bridge. The object of taking this route is to see Havre, and more especially Rouen, on the way to Paris. If you prefer to omit these pla- ces, and proceed at once to Paris, the route by Dover and Calais is preferable ; or the Brighton route, by Newhaven and Dieppe, would lead to Paris by way of Rouen, and be a good one if well con- ducted; but on the whole, the writer would decidedly recommend the route here proposed, to those who travel for information. The time of starting from London may depend on the time when the steamer sails from Southampton, which is partly regulated by the state of the tide at Havre, in order to be able to enter that port. If the steamer do not sail until evening, you may stop at Winchester on the way, by leaving Lon- don in the morning. On leaving the Waterloo Station in Southwark, or ra- ther in Lambeth, as the railway passes above the roofs of the houses, you look down upon the gardens of Lambeth Lambeth Palace. Palace, which towers above you on the right ; this being the city residence of the Archbishop of Canterbury, the Rt. Rev. John Bird Sumner. Passing next Clapham and Wandsworth Commons on the left, and Wimbledon Park and Com- mon on the right, and after these the 5 82 O UTLINE TOUR S O UTH A M l J TO N . Claremont Winchester. stations of Maiden and Kingston, you will soon come to Long Ditton, from which a short railway branches out on the right to Hampton Court, a famous royal palace. The next station is Esher : not far to the left of which is Clare- mont, the late residence of the exiled King of the French, Louis Philippe. From "Woking Heath there is a branch railway diverging on the left to Guild- ford ; and thence the Basingstoke Canal continues alongside the road on the right, nearly to Farnborough, where the road is crossed by another railway from Guildford northwest to Beading. From Basingstoke, the next prominent station, there is another branch northward to Eeading. After this you pass Lichfield and Popham Hill tunnels, and near the latter is Popham Beacon, on the left, 460 feet high, affording a commanding view. After this you come to Winchester, a city well worth visiting if you have the time; otherwise it may be seen after returning from the Continent. On leav- ing it, look back, on the left hand, and you will have a glimpse of the Cathe- dral ; which is one of the finest in Eng- land, as this was once a royal city. Hursley, next, five miles beyond Win- chester, was once the property of Richard Cromwell ; and at Bishopstoke there are branch railways, on the right to Salisbury, and on the left to Gosport and Portsmouth. Observe the light color of the soil, caused by the chalk which it contains, indicating a calcareous formation extending eastward to Dover. You will probably reach Southampton in time to see something of the place, before finally going on board of the OUTLINE TOUR — HAVRE. 83 steamboat for Havre. Observe espe- Southampton, dally the docks and ocean steamers, and the slender octagonal tower of St. Mi- chael's church, which serves as a land- mark to ships entering the harbor. One gate of the ancient fortifications re- mains, called Bargate, sculptured with the figures of Sir Bevis of Hampton and the giant Ascapaud, whom he is said to have slain. The Danish king Canute the Great once resided at this place; and here he is said to have rebuked the folly of his courtiers, by sitting on the shore and commanding the tide to rise no farther, in vain. On leaving South- ampton, you pass down the bay called Southampton Water, and have a distant view of Netley Abbey, a beautiful ruin on the left, half hidden by trees. On leaving the bay, you pass Calshot Castle on the right, and have the Isle of Wight before you, a visit to which should be deferred until the summer. On passing it, yon may perceive the turrets of Os- borne House on your right, the favorite summer residence of Queen Victoria. You now come to Spithead, the road- stead of Gosport and Portsmouth, where a fleet of British ships of war will often be seen at anchor, this being one of the most important stations of the British navy. And now you leave England for more sunny climes, and may expect to reach Havre, after a passage of ten or twelve hours, not without sea-sickness, if the channel be rough, for the short chopping seas of the channel are even more inducive to this than the broad Atlantic. On approaching Havre two Havre. lighthouses are seen on the left, on Cape la Here, a high chalky promon- tory : and between these and the city is 84 OUTLINE TOUR HAVRE. the hill D'lngowcitte, affording a com- manding view. The round tower on the left, as you enter the city, is named from Francis I., king of France, who founded this city in 1516. The best inns are the Hotel de VEurope, Eue de Paris, and Wheeler 's (English) Quai Notre Dame ; and the commissionaire, or agent of the hotel, will probably assist you in regard to passport, and examination of baggage at the Bouane or custom-house. Notre Dame. April 6, Wed.— Take a carriage and visit first the church of Notre Dame, in the Eue de Paris, which is the most prominent street in Havre, running northward from the Round Tower of Francis I. Follow this street to the Place Louis XVI. between the theatre and the Basin of Commerce ; and pass- ing out of the city by the gate DTngou- ville, where you will have a good spe- cimen of the surrounding fortifications, ascend the hill DTngouville on the north, and you will have a glorious view of the city, the country and the sea. Havre is chiefly remarkable for its artificial harbor excavated within the city, consisting of the Bassin du Roi, Bassin du Commerce, Bassin de la Barre, Port Neuf, and Avant Port, the last be- Ingouvilie. j n g at t h e entrance. To scour out the mud, which would otherwise be depo- sited at the entrance, by the current of the river Seine meeting the sea, a re- servoir is provided on the south side of the city, called Le Retenue de la Floride ; the water of which, let out by a sluice- way when the tide is low r , keeps the en- trance clear. Returning from D'lngou- ville, if there be time, you may pass around bv the Place du Commerce, on OUTLINE TOUR — ROUEN. 85 the Quai tVAngoultiue, and crossing the Canal Yauban, visit the Citadel, in the Citadel, southeast part of the city, built by Richelieu, where the princes Conde, Conti, and Longueville, the leaders of the Fronde, were shut up by Cardinal Mazarin, in 1650; but they were re- leased when the Cardinal fell. As Havre has no antiquities, and few curiosities, one morning may suffice to see it ; and you may take the railroad train to Rouen, 56 miles, on the afternoon of the same day. Leaving the station, or embarcadere, Railway to Rouen, ki the east part of Havre, you come first to Graville, a suburb of Havre, with its Norman Church ; then to Hartieurs, 4i miles; then to Beuzeville, 16 miles; and at Mirville. soon after, you pass a viaduct of 48 brick arches, the highest 106 feet high, over the Bolbec river, or brook. You come, after this, to Yvetot, 32 miles, Yvetot noted for its traditionary kings. Still passing over the high and fertile table- land of the Pays de Caux, you come to Barentin, 45 miles, and there pass over a curved viaduct of 27 arches, each 60 feet span, and the highest 108 feet high, over the small river Austreberthe, which flows into the Seine. ISTest you pass a tunnel 1 mile and 3 furlongs in length, un- der the heights of Piccy-Po-ville, before reaching Mala/unay, 50 miles, whence there is a branch railroad northward to Dieppe. Another tunnel, nearly a mile long, under the suburbs of St. Hilaire, Beauvoisine, and Cauchoise, brings you to the Rouen station, in a hollow cut in Bora*. the chalky high ground, on the north side of the city. An omnibus or cab will take you to the Hotel d? Albion, Quai dn Havre, or to the Hdtel (FAngleterre, on 86 OUTLINE TOUR ROUEN. Rouen Cathedral. the same Quai, bordering on the river Seine, or to the Hotel de Normandie, Eue du Bee ; these being among the best hotels in Rouen. On the way to the hotel, you may notice the Boulevards, a wide street, occupying the site of the ancient fortificat part of the city. April 7, Th. — Starting from the Quai du Havre, you may notice first the two bridges, the lower one a suspension bridge, and the upper one crossing the Seine at the foot of the Isle de la Croix, on which is a statue of Comeille, who was born here. There is also a statue of Boildieu, another native of Rouen, on the quay facing the Bourse. Observe the large Caserne, or barracks of St. Sever, in the suburb of that name, on the south side of the river. Then, after passing the theatre, turn up the Rue Grand Pont, and visit the Cathedral, noticing par- ticularly the tomb of Rollo in a chapel on the right, and the effigy of Richard Cceur de Lion, who was duke of Nor- mandy as well as king of England. It is in the Lady Chapel, in rear of the high altar. Then turn southward, by the south side of the Cathedral, and visit the Holies, built around a small square, and used as shops. Here once stood the palace de la Vielle Tour, where Prince Arthur is said to have been murdered by king John of England. Near the Halles, is the time-worn fountain of Lisieux, in the Rue de la Savonnerie, worth visiting for its quaint old sculp- ture. Next turn up the new street called Rue de la Republique, in rear of the cathedral, and visit the Church of St. Maclou, and the fountain at the north ansrle of this church, on the Rue OUTLINE TOUR — ROUEN. 8 Damiette. Continue up this street to the beautiful Church of St. Ouen, which has St Ouen. one of the most splendid fronts in the world. Adjoining this, on the north, is the Hotel de Ville, or City Hall, which is Hotel de vnie. the old monastery of St. Ouen, modern- ized, and with a Corinthian front. It contains the Public Library, aud a mu- seum of pictures ; the latter being open to the public on Thursdays, but the for- mer not. Next, proceeding around the south side of the Church of St. Ouen, and along the Rue des Faulx, you will pass the Church of St. Vivien on the right, and come to the Fountain de la Croix de Pierre, at the carrefour, or crossway of St. Vivien, remarkable for its sculpture. South of this are the General Hospital, and the Caserne or barrack of Martainville, near the Field of Mars ; but a visit to them may well be dispensed with. From the Croix de Pierre, then, turn westward by the Rue Bourg-L'Abbe, and at the cross- ing the new street, you will observe the College on the right. Then turn up the new street, and visit the Musee aVAnti- Musee d'Antiquites. quites, Rue Poussin, in the ancient con- vent of Ste. Marie. Here you will see the autographs and seals of William the Conqueror, and kings Richard and John of England; and the ashes of the heart of Richard Cceur de Lion are here preserv- ed in a cinereal vial. You may next visit the Tour du Donjon, an old massive tower south westward, and then pass the Church of St. Godard,on the way south- ward to the Cour Boy ale and the Palais Palais de Justice. de Justice, which fronts westward on the new market. From the south side of this palace or court-house, once the Par- liament House of Normandy, a street 88 OUTLINE TOUR ROUEN. Joan of Arc. leads southward to La Grand Eue,in which Tour de Horologe. observe the Tour de la Grosse Horologe, or tower of the great clock, formerly called La Tour de Beffroi, an archway across the street, with an old clock and a fountain, the sculpture of which rep- resents Alphens and Arethusa. Follow La . Grand. Rue westward to the old market, and beyond this notice the house where Corneille was born, Rue de la Pie, No. 4. Then turn back, and southward to the Place de . la Pucelle, with its fountain, marking the place where Joan of Arc, the Maid of Orleans, was burnt at the stake, a martyr to pa- triotism and a victim of fanaticism. Ad- joining this square on the west is the Hotel de Bourgtheroude, entering the front gate of which, the walls facing on the interior court are ornamented with sculpture, representing the meeting of Francis I. and Henry VIII. of Eng- land, on the Field of the Cloth of Gold. From thence, passing the Church of St. Eloy, near by, you may return to the Quai du Havre ; and will have seen the chief curiosities of the ancient capital of Normandy, which has a population of 100,000 souls. You may find a good col- lection of guide-books and maps at the shop of Le Brument, Quai de Paris, No. 45 ; and should you be detained here on Sunday, there is English service in the Church of Ste. Marie la Petite, Rue des Bons Enfans, in the western part of the city. Still farther west are the Church of St. Gervais, the oldest in Rouen, and the Hotel Dieu, a hospital, with the Church of La Madeleine attached. Railway to Paris. April 8, Fr. — Leave Rouen for Paris, distant 87 miles. You start from the terminus or station in the Faubourg de OUTLINE TOUR — ItOUEN TO L'ARIS. 89 St. Sever, on the south side of the Seine, and soon after, crossing the river, you pass under the hill of Tourville by a short tunnel, about 500 yards in length; on emerging from which, observe on the right the Pont de VArche, a bridge lead- ing to the town of that name. You next cross the Seine at Le Manoir, just above the confluence of the Eure, 15 miles from Rouen. Then, passing St. Pierre, and a short tunnel at Venables, and soon after this another, called La Rule, a mile long, you come next to Gaillon, 29 miles; Gafllon, north of which may be seen Chateau Gaillard, or "the Saucy Castle," a favor- ite resort of Richard Cceur de Lion, 5 or 6 miles distant. Near Vernon, 37 miles, observe the extensive quarries in the hill- side on the left, having a cavernous ap- pearance. At Bonnieres, next, 44 miles, Bonnteres. you pass a tunnel nearly 1\ miles long, and emerge at Rolleboise. You next skirt the forest and pass the village of Rosny, 48 miles, near which on the left Rosny. is the Chateau de Sully, a plain building of red brick, once the residence of that great financier, and more recently of the Duchess de Berri. You next pass Mantes,' 52 miles, where William the Mantes. Conqueror was mortally injured after having burnt the town ; and then Meu- lan, 62 miles, with its old stone bridge. After this you come to Poissy, 70 miles, Poiasy. noted as the birth-place of St. Louis, and for the Conference of Poissy, be- tween the Protestant and Papal divines, in 1561. It is now the greatest cattle market in France. You next traverse the forest of St. Germain, in the midst st - Germain, of which is the station of Conflans, and at the end of it liaisons, 77 miles, near which on the left is the Chateau of La- 90 OUTLINE TOUR- PARIS. Hotels. Tuileries. Louvre. iitte, the banker. Between this and Paris the Seine is crossed three times by the railroad ; at Maisons, at Besons, and at Aznieres. Between the last two bridges, two railroads branch off sonthwestward, one to the palace of St. Germain, and the other to Versailles. At length, pass- ing the village of Clichy on the left, then crossing the outer fortifications, and then traversing two more tunnels under the Place d'Europe and several streets, you enter Paris by the quarter called Les Batignolles ; and may find excellent ac- commodations at the Hotel Meurice, or Hotel de Windsor, or Hotel de Wagram, all of which are very centrally situated, in the Kue de Rivoli. The Hotel Bristol, Place Vendome, and Lawson's Bedford Hotel, between Rue de la Madeleine and Rue de 1' Arcade, are highly recommend- ed by Galignani, whose JS T ew Paris Guide should be one of the stranger's first acquisitions. Any fraction of a day, after arriving, may be spent in studying the map of Paris, and the Guide-Book, and reconnoitring, especially around the Palace of the Tuileries, and the Place du Carrousel, the Chainps Elysees. Take the earliest opportunity of procuring the necessary vises to your passport ; which may be done through a commissionaire of the hotel, unless it be necessary to call at the American embassy in person.* April 9, Sat. — The first stormy week- day in Paris, if it be not a Monday, may be profitably spent in visiting the Gal- leries of the Louvre, which are open to * The writer's impression is, that the only vis£s which it is necessary to obtain in Paris, are those of the American Legation, and the Prefecture of Police ; but that if the Sardinian, Tuscan, Roman, and Neapolitan vises are obtained here, it will save th? necessity of procuring them in Marseilles. OUTLINE ion: — PARIS. 91 strangers presenting their passports, on all the other week-days. But if the weather be pleasant, it should be devot- ed to some one section of the city, fin- ishing, if possible, that portion which is undertaken. It will be economy of time, if not of money, to take a carriage, cabriolet or small fiacre, and perhaps a valet de place, as a guide. If you have to visit the bankers, who reside chiefly in the northwestern division of the city, the day should be spent in this quarter ; and if your bankers be Messrs. Greene & Co., No. 26 Place St. Georges, you may proceed from the Rue de Rivoli by the Place Vendome, and see Napoleon's place Vendome. Column; then by the Boulevard des Italiens, and Rue Lafitte, to the Church of Notre Dame de Lorette, which should Notre Dame de Lo- be seen on the way. Messrs. Greene, or rette - other bankers, will be able perhaps to furnish you with permits to see various places in the city audits environs. From Place St. Georges, it will be well to con- tinue, northward, up to the heights of Montmartre, which afford a fine view of Montmartre. Paris. Returning, you should next visit the American Embassy, No. 11 Rue American Embassy. Verte or Penthievre, to have your pass- port vised by the Secretary of Legation, and you may be able to procure some val- ' uable permits or introductions there. You may then visit the Chapelle Expia- chapeile Expiatoire. toire, Rue d'Anjou St. Honore, erected on the spot where Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette were buried, before their remains were removed to St. Denis. Thence you may visit the Church of La La Madeleine. Madeleine, and if it be not open, at least observe its sculptured doors and pedi- ments. Thence turning, by the Rue de la Concorde, into the Rue rlu Faubourg 92 OUTLINE TOUR PAKIS. St. Honore, and proceeding westward, Elysee. you soon come to the Palais de V 'My see Bourbon, otherwise called de V Elysee National, which was occupied by Na- poleon after his return from Elba, and where he last slept in Paris, after the battle of Waterloo. The interior is well worth visiting, but probably it will be impossible to obtain permission. You may then proceed by the Avenue des Champs Elysees to the Barriere de Arc de Triomphe. Neuilly, and the Are de Triomphe de VEtoile, begun by Napoleon, and com- pleted by Louis Philippe. Climb this magnificent arch, and you will have a splendid view of Paris and its western environs. Return by way of the Champs Place de la Concorde. Elysees, the Place de la Concorde with its Egyptian Obelisk, and the Jardin des Tuileries ; observing from the Place de la Concorde the Church of La Madeleine on the north, and the Legislative Palace, or Palais deV 'Assemble >e Rationale on the south, beyond the Pont de la Concorde, across the Seine. You may dine at the Hotel, or at one of the restaurants in the Palais Royal, otherwise called Palais National ; Very's, or Les Trois Freres. — [See Appendix] April 10, Sun. — Attend high mass, Notre Dame. ' at 10 o'clock, in the Cathedral of Notre Dame, passing the Palace of the Tuile- ries, the Gallery of the Louvre, and the Palace of the Louvre, on the way. The Bridges. bridge opposite the Tuileries is the Pont National; the next above it is the Pont du Carrousel; the next the Pont des Arts ; and the bridge across the foot of the He de la Cite, is the Pont Neuf, on the lower side of which is an equestrian statue of Henry IV. You may also pass by the Pont an Change, at the farther Legislative Palace. OUTLINE TOUR — PARIS. 93 end of which is the Palais de Justice, and cross over the Pont Notre Dame, or over the Pont oVArcole beyond this,near which is the Hotel de Ville, on the way to the" Cathedral. In rear of the Cathe- dral, at the east end of the He de la Cite, the Pont de la Cite leads over to the He de St. Louis ; and the Pont Louis Phil- ippe, leads across the point of the latter island, to the north shore. This bridge may be crossed in returning. The Prot- English Chapels. estant service should not be wholly neg- lected, even in Paris; and may be at- tended p. m. at the English Episcopal Church, No. 5 Rue d'Aguesseau, Fau- bourg St. Honore, or at the English Em- bassy, or at the Marboeuf Chapel; or there are various other Protestant ser- vices, as indicated by the Guide-Book, and in Galignani's Messenger, which should be consulted daily while in Paris. April 11, M011. — This day, if stor- my, should be devoted to correspond- ence and studying the map and guide- book ; but if pleasant, may be well spent in visiting the eastern part of the city, and Pere la Chaise. Walk to the Bou- Boulevards. levard des Italiens, and there take an omnibus around the Boulevards east- ward, observing in passing, the arches of St. Denis and St. Martin, relics of the ancient fortifications, which were levelled to form the Boulevards. Beyond these arches, on the left, is the beautiful foun- tain called Le Chateau WEau. Contin- uing around southward by the Boule- vards, you come at length' to the Place Place de la Bastille. de la Bastille, where once stood the famous prison of that name ; but in its place now stands the Colonne de Juillet, (Column of July,) commemorating the Revolution of 1830. The Canal de St. 04 Of! LINE TOUR PARIS. Lafayette's Tomb. Fere la Chaise. Abbatoirs. Boulevards. Martin runs directly beneath it, into the basin of the canal, between this and the Seine. Here you will save time by taking a cabriolet, in order to visit the tomb of La Fayette, the patriot of two worlds, in the garden of the Convent of the Dames des Sacres Cceurs, Kue de Piepus, No. 15 ; the shortest way being- eastward from the Place de la Bastille, by the Rue du Faubourg St. Antoine, nearly to the Place du Trdne. You may next pass out by the Barriere du TrOne, and following the exterior Bou- levards, northward, outside of the city wall, visit the famous cemetery of Plre la Chaise; dismissing the carriage on arriving there. A skeleton map of this cemetery will be found in Galignani's Guide ; a larger map is still a desidera- tum. Observe the monuments of Abe- lard and Eloise, Casimir Perier, General Gobert, the Duke Decres, Marshals Le- febvre and Massena, and General Foy, as among the more remarkable. Re- turning through the Barriere d' Ann ay, and passing between the prison called the Nouveau Bicttre, on the left, and the Prison des Jeunes Detenus, or house of detention for juvenile offenders, op- posite to it, turn to the right by the Rue St. Maur, the next street, and visit the Abattoir de Popincourt, or Menilmon- taut, the largest of the five slaughter- houses constructed by order of Napoleon for the accommodation of the city. It will be the most pleasant to return by the way of the Boulevards ; and a walk in the Palais Royal may occupy the evening. April 12, Tues. — Visit the Bibli- otheque Rationale, or National Library, Rue Richelieu, No. 58, in the building OUTLINE TOU PARIS. 0." which was once the palace of Cardinal Mazarin; passing the fountain of Mo- Fountain Moiiire. lure, so named from his statue, in the same street, on the way. This library, Bibiiothfcque Natio- the largest in the world, containing nale - 800,000 printed volumes, is only open to visitors on Tuesdays and Fridays, from 10 o'clock to 3 ; but the reading room, and the rooms of medals, engrav- ings, charts, &c. are open every day. Observe in the library a pair of 12 feet copper globes, brought from Venice ; and a Psalter, printed atMentz by Faust and Schoeffer, in 1457, being the first book printed with a date. In the cabinet of medals, observe the so called shields of Scipio and Hannibal ; and the black Babylonian marble carved with cunei- form characters. In the collection of K* r * B « ok3 - manuscripts are those of Galileo, and Feneloms Telemachus, the Prayer book of St. Louis, and another which belonged successively to Charles V., Charles IX., and Henry VII., cand bears their signa- tures. Among the engravings are 90,000 portraits, and 300,000 maps, charts, views, &c. Observe, lastly, in the Gal- lery of ancient sculpture, the celebrated Zodiac ofjDenderah,bYOUght from Egypt, and supposed to have formed the ceiling of a temple. Opposite to the northern part of the National Library, is the Place Richelieu, containing the fountain of Ri- chelieu, built on the site of the former French Opera House, which was de- molished in consequence of the assassi- nation there of the Duke de Berri in 1820. From the Library, proceed to visit La Bourse. Bourse, or the Exchange, in the Rue Yivienne, not far distant. Observe the four statues at the corners, representing 90 OUTLINE TOUR PARIS. Commerce, Industry, Agriculture, and Navigation ; and the monochrome draw- ings on the ceiling within having the full effect of bass-reliefs. It is desirable to reach the Exchange before 3 o'clock, and witness the scene of confusion and ex- citement. Close to this is the office of Messrs. Livingston, where a register is kept of Americans visiting Paris; and this will be a favorable time to visit it. Proceeding next down the Eue Notre Dame des Yictoires, in rear of the Ex- change, to the Place des Victoires, with its statue of Louis XIV., and then inclin- General Post-Office, ing to the left, you may visit the Hotel des Posies, or General Post-Office, Rue Jean Jaques Rousseau ; and after this the church of St. Eustache, opposite to the Holies Centrales, southeast of which is Marche des Innoeens. Marche des Innoccns, the most general market in Paris. You may return by Halle an Ble. wa J °f the Halle an Ble, or wheat-hall, to the Palais Royal, or to your hotel, to dine ; and occupy the evening with a stroll in the Boulevards. April 13, Wed. — Visit the natio- Les Gobelins. nal manufactory des Gobelins, of ta- pestry and carpets, Rue Mouffetard, No. 270, in the southeastern extremity of the city ; it being open to strangers, on presentation of their passports, on Wed- nesdays and Saturdays. It will be plea- sant if with a party, to take a carriage; otherwise omnibuses may be found go- ing there, by proper inquiry. As this establishment is not open till 1 or 2 o'clock, you may visit the Hotel de Hotel de ciuny. Cluny, connected with the ancient Ro- man Palais des Thermes, Rue des Ma- thurens, No. 14; as also the College of Sorbonnc. La Sorbonne, and the College of France opposite to it, Rue St. Jaques, south of OUTLINE TOUR PARIS. 9/ the He de la Cite ; and then, turning by the Rue St Etienne, visit the Pantheon Pantheon or church of St.Genevievc, and the library of St. Genevieve on the north of it- as also the church of St. Etienne du Mont east of these, and the Polytechnic School P/J . f . . a v northeast of this last, or as many of these PoI>techmc Scho ° l objects as the time will permit,- before proceeding to the Gobelin manufactory the tapestries of which resemble exqui- site oil paintings. Returning from this there may be time to visit the Morgue * r or dead-house, on the He de la Cite, west 0rgUe ' ot .Notre Dame; and it may not be too late to revisit Notre Dame itself, and by NotreIW applying at the sacristy, to see the . church plate and the coronation robes of ]N apoleon I. mam^rt' Zfc™* ^ P?rcelain E^don to Sevrea manufactory at Sevres, which is open to strangers, from 11 o'clock to 4, on lhursdays alone, without a special ticket or permit from the Minister of Commerce. The best conveyance is by the Versailles Railroad, northern route, starting from the station, No. 122 Rue St. Lazare, and retracing the way to- wards Rouen, until after passing Clichv and the bridge at Aznieres. You then turn to the left, on the branch road to Versailles, and proceed southwestward by Courbevoie, Puteaux, Suresnes, and St Cloud, to Sevres. The high fort seen at first on the left and afterwards on the right, is Monte Valerien, opposite to Su- resnes. On the left of Suresnes, across the fe eme , is seen the Pois de Boulogne, Bois de Bou^n* famous for the duels fought there; and the village of Boulogne is opposite to ot. Cloud. The process of manufactur- ing porcelain at Sevres is rarely shown to visitors, and only by special permis- 98 OUTLINE TOUR PARIS. St. Cloud. Conservatoire des Arts, etc. sion ; but the exhibition of porcelain is alone worth the visit. On leaving Sevres, you may easily walk back to St. Cloud, or else procure conveyance thither, and visit the Park of St. Cloud, together with the Palace, if visitors be admitted. This was a favorite resort of Napoleon, the country residence of Louis Philippe, and the sum- mer residence of the present Emperor, when President, as it will doubtless con- tinue to be. After returning by the same railroad to the station in Paris, there may be time to take a carriage and visit the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, Rue St. Martin, No. 224, which is open gratuitously to the public on Sunda} T s and Thursdays from 10 o'clock to 4, and contains numerous models of machines ; St. Vincent de Paul, and after this the church of St. Vincent de Paul, Place La Payette, in the northeast- ern part of the city, and the stations of the northern Calais, and the eastern or Stras- bourg railroads, which are in the same neighborhood. April 15, Fr. — Spend the morn- ing in the Gallery of the Louvre until 12 or 1 o'clock; which will enable you to look through the long Gallery of Paintings, or else in visiting Notre Dame, if it has not already been seen suffi- ciently; then visit the Jardin des Plants, with its Menagerie and Museums of Com-- parative Anatomy, Zoology, Botany, and Mineralogy, which are open to the public on Tuesdays and Fridays, from 2 to 5 o'clock, p. m. They are in the south- eastern part of the city, bordering on the Seine; and in reaching them along the margin of the river, you pass the Halle aux Vins, which is not a single hall, but as it were a village, devoted to the stor- Garden of Plants. Halle aux Yins. OUTLINE TOUR — J'Aitls. 99 age of wine. Returning, you may per- haps see La Sainte Chapelle attached to the Palais de Justice, on the lie de la Cite ; or you may cross the He de St. Louis, by the Pont de la Tournelle, and again observe the Hotel de Ville, on the way. Near the Hotel de Yille, west- ward, is the fountain of the Place du Place du Chateiet. Chatelet, fronting the Pont au Change ; and northeast of this, in the Rue de Rivoli, west of the Rue St. Martin, is the lofty tower of St. Jacques de la Bou- cher 'ie, the relic of a Gothic church of that name, which was demolished in 1789. Or if the group of objects allotted for Wednesday morning were not all seen, there may be time to see the remainder now. April 16, Sat. — Cross the Pont des L'institute de France. Arts, and observe the Palace of tlic Xational Institute, fronting this bridge, with the Mint east of it ; and the Palace Beaux Arts. or School of the Fine Arts on the Quai Malaquais west of it, which is accessible t<> strangers, and worth seeing. Then, taking the Abbey Church of St. Germain St, Germain des Pres. des Pres on the route, visit the Luxem- The Luxembourg. bourg Palace, the gallery of paintings in which is open to strangers with pass- ports, on all days except Mondays, by applying to the porter's lodge, on the east side. It is a fine collection of living artists. Observe also the statues in the garden, south of the palace ; and beyond this, southward is the Observatory, which, Observatory. if visited at all, should be seen now. South of this, and near the BarriCre d'Arcneil, is the entrance to the Cata- Catacombs. combs, which extend under this part of the city. From the Observatory it will be easy to visit the church of the Vol Valde Grace. de Grace, Rue St. Jaques, not far distant. LofC. 100 OUTLINE TOUR PARIS. Hotel des Invalides. Champ de Mars. Artesian Well. Palais de Legion d'Honneur. Ste. Clotilde. "Musee d'Artillerie. Church of St. Eoch. northeastward. Here was once a con- vent, favored by royalty, but it is now a military hospital, in the court of which are statues of the celebrated surgeons, Larrey and Broussais. Returning from these objects, visit the church of St. Sul- pice, with its fountain ; and thence pro- ceed to the Hotel des Invalides, where rest the remains of Napoleon; and thence to the Ecole Militaire and Champ de Mars, in the extreme western part of the city, south of the Seine. From thence turn southward and visit the Ar- tesian Well in the Abattoir of Crenelle ; which was bored to the depth of 1800 feet, and from which the water rises 112 feet above the ground. You may return by way of the Palais de V Assemblee Ra- tionale, and perhaps be admitted to see the Hall of the Representatives, which much resembles our own at Washing- ton. Continuing eastward, along the Quai d'Orsay, you will pass the Palace of tli e Legion of Honor, and the Palais d'Orsay, the latter being occupied for public offices. There is a beautiful new church in this part of the city, the church of Ste. Clotilde in the Place Belle Chasse, built in Gothic style, which should be visited in this connection ; and east of this is the Museum of Artillery , in the same court with the church of St. Thomas d)Aquin, both of which are worth seeing. April 17, Sun. — Attend high mass at the Church of St. Eoch, No. 296 Rue St. Honore, north of the Tuileries. This, though not the handsomest, is said to be the richest church in Paris, containing some very beautiful paintings, especially in its rear chapels; and the music there is remarkably fine. In the afternoon OUTLINE TOUR PARIS. 101 attend some Protestant service, as that Protestant Chapels. of the Chapel Marboeuj] Avenue or Alle Marboeuf, No. 10 bis, near the upper end of the Champs Elysees. Or if you prefer attending a French Protestant service, it may be found at the Oratoire, Rue St. Honore, near the palace of the Louvre on the north. Service is said to begin here at half past 12 o'clock, and the eloquent M. Coquerel is one of the ministers. April 18, Mon. — If it be stormy, finish correspondence, and make prepa- rations for leaving Paris. But if plea- Excursion to Ver- sant, visit the Palace of Versailles; sailles. which, with its grounds and subordinate palaces, should occupy the whole day. Take the railroad again by way of St. Cloud and Sevres ; and endeavor to reach the city of Versailles before 11 o'clock, at which hour the palace is open to the public on all days except Thurs- days and Fridays ; and on those days it is open to strangers presenting their « passports. It is advisable, on arriving there, to take a guide or -valet de place ; and if you do not speak French, one may be found who can speak English. Besides the galleries of painting and sculpture, you will visit the chapel and theatre which form a part of this magnificent palace; as also the private rooms of Kings Louis XIV., Louis XV., and Louis XVI., and Queen Marie Antoinette. After this, do not fail to visit the Great and Little Trianon, and the coach house containing the royal carriages, and the Swiss chalet and grotto of Marie Antoi- nette ; and you may return by way of the Bassin de Neptune ; and then take the southern railroad by Meudon, if it be not too late, entering Paris in 102 OUTLINE TOUR PARIS. Museums of Louvre. that case from the southwest, near the cemetery du Mont Parnasse. April 19, Tues. — Finish visiting the the Museums of the Louvre, including its galleries of paintings, if they have not already been visited in unpleasant wea- ther. The paintings occupy not only the long gallery between the Tuileries and the Louvre, but the upper story, in part, of the south and east sides of the quad- rangle, or palace, of the Louvre ; and the lower story of the same portion is occu- pied by antique statues and plaster casts; while an inner gallery above, on the south side, is devoted to Tuscan and Egyptian antiquities, and one room is set apart for enamels. On the north side of the quad- rangle are a gallery of engravings and naval curiosities above, and a gallery of ISTinevite sculpture below, including two winged bulls, like those in the British Museum. It maybe worth while to visit the old Church of St. Germain VAuxer- rois, near the Louvre, on the east, the bell of which first tolled as the signal for the massacre of St. Bartholomew's eve, in 1572. We have now named the principal ob- jects of interest to the stranger in the city of Paris, and given the order in which, perhaps, they may be seen with the greatest economy of time : referring for full accounts of them to the larger guide-books. It may be advisable to visit Vincennes. Vincennes and St. Denis, as also St. Ger- main, Neuilly, and Meudon ; but if the traveller's time is limited, perhaps this would be done at the expense of still more interesting objects farther onward in the tour. It* more has heen allotted in this schedule than the time would suffice to accomplish, this also would be OUTLINE TOUR — FONTAINEBLEAU. 103 a reason for making a longer stay in Paris. But, in order to accomplish what is here proposed as a summer's tour, it will be necessary to bid farewell even to the allurements and attractious of Paris and hasten on the way. April 20, TT.— Leave Paris by an early tram for Fontainebleau, 38 miles ; start- ing from the station at the foot of Rue de Lyon, in the southeastern part of the city ; close by which, on the left, is the Prison of La Mmelle Force. After passing the outer fortifications, you soon come to Charenton, and there cross the river Marne, just above its junction with the Seine, which you still keep on the right hand. The detached fort now seen on the left, is called Chateau Gaillard, near the hamlet of Maisons. You come next to Villeneuve, 9± miles : and, after passing Montgeron and Brunoy, 14 miles, you have the forest of Senart on your right until beyond the village of Quincy. Passing next Combs-la- Ville ; then Lien- saint, 19 miles, and Oesson, 23i miles Fontaine bieau. you come to Melun, 28 miles, the ancient ^lelodunum. Before reaching Drolle, the forest of Fontainebleau commences on the nght^ and it only remains to pass Bois- le-Roi, 32 miles, before reaching the sta- tion of Fontainebleau. An omnibus will be ready to carry you to the city, of which the palace forms a part, a mile distant or farther from the railroad ; and you will find accommodations at the Hotel de V Aigle-Noir, or the Hotel de France, both fronting the palace, or at la Poste, which is also well recom- mended. Visit first the Palace of Fontainebleau, observing particularly the Cour du Che- ral Blanc, where Napoleon took leave of 104 OUTLINE TOUR PARIS TO LYONS. ROUTE to ITALY. Railway to Chalons. Monterau. Sens. his old guard, celebrated in the painting and engraving called " Les Adieux de Fontainebleau ; " and also the Salle du Travail, still containing the very table at which Napoleon signed his abdication before his departure for the Island of Elba. Observe also the rooms in which Napoleon kept Charles IV. of Spain, a prisoner for twenty-four days, in 1808, and Pope Pius VII. for eighteen months, in 1812-14; and the Galerie des Cerfs, where Queen Christina of Sweden, when residing here, caused the murder of her secretary Monaldeschi, in 1657. Then walk in the gardens, and observe JOEtang, a large pond well stocked with fish. After this, or after dinner, take a drive in the forest, visiting first the Parquet du Roi, a splendid course or promenade west of the city ; and then taking the old high- way, or grande route, to Paris, as far as the Carre/our de la Croix du Grand Veneur, and thence turning northeast- ward to the Carre/our de la Belle Croix, near which is the Grotte au Cristeaux; returning by la Chtne de St. Louis, on Mont Chauvet, and passing the JVid de VAigle. April 21, Th. — Take the first train of cars for Chalons-sur-Sadne, so called to distinguish itfrom Chalons-on-the-Marne, the distance being 202 miles from Fon- tainebleau by railroad. The first place of note on the way is Monterau, 13 miles, where Napoleon gained a victory over the Allies, February 18th, 1814, driving them out of the town by his cuirassiers, and by a battery on the heights of Sur- ville, on the north. They blew up the bridge over the Yonne, and thus checked his pursuit towards Sens, which is the next considerable town on our way, 33 OUTLINE TOUR CHALONS-SUK-SAONE. 105 miles from Fontainebleau, with a cathedral, to which Thomas a Becket fled from the wrath of Henry II. of England, in 1164. After this you pass Villeneuve-sur-Yonne, 42 miles; thenjirigny, 54 miles; Laroche, 60 miles, and St. Florentin, 71 miles, a pretty town at the junction of the Ar- mance and Armancon. You then pass Tonnerre, 86 miles;* then Ancy-le- Franc, which contains the chateau of Louvois, prime minister of Louis XIV. ; then Nuits-St.-Ravier, 104 miles; then Moutbard, 115 miles, once the residence of Buffon, the naturalist ; then Verrey, 137 miles; and the fourth station beyond this is Dijon, formerly the capital of the Dijon. Duchy of Burgundy, 159 miles from Fon- tainebleau, orl 9 6 from Paris. This place is worth stopping to see, if you reach it before dark, and if it will not cause the loss of a day at Chalons, waiting for the steamboat to Lyons. You may stop for the night at the Hotel de la Cloche ; and should see the Cathedral, formerly called the Fleche de St. Benigne, with its lofty wooden spire, the Church of Notre Dame, of the purest Gothic, and the old palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, which is now used for the museum and public offices. The hills both north and south of Dijon are the range called Cote d'Or, noted for their rich vineyards, and accordingly this is the seat of the Burgundy wine trade. April 22, Ft. — Leave Dijon by the earliest train, so as to reach Chalons in time for the steamboat, and pass JS r uit$, 14 miles ; then Beaune, 23 miles, the birthplace of Monge, the geometer; then * Between Tonnerre and Dijon there is a tunnel 2i miles loner, but the writer does not recollect its location more pre- eisi'ly. 6 106 OUTLINE TOUR LYONS. Ghagny, 23 miles, and soon yon arrive Chalons. at Chalons-sur-Sadne, 43 miles from Di- jon, or 239 from Paris. It is the ancient Cabillonum, and contains a cathedral. Here yon take a steamboat ; the distance to Lyons being about 100 miles, and the time required about eight hours ; and, on leaving Chalons, pass the mouth of the Canal du Centre on the right, with a basin, or dock, for barges entering or quitting it. You next pass Tour?ius, on the right, with a wooden bridge of five arches over the Saone, and come to an- other bridge at Fleurville, which is on Ma?011, the left bank. Magon next, on the right bank, the birthplace of Lamartine, has a bridge of thirteen arches ; and there are suspension bridges at St. Eomain and Belleville, with several common bridges, before reaching Trevoux, on the left bank, with its round tower and ruined castle. It was the capital of the principality of Domoes, and only tributary to the kings of France, until 1762. You now come to the richly wooded heights called Mont d'Or, and pass Neumlle on the left, with its suspension bridge ; and after this Cou- son, opposite to which is La Roche Taillee on the left bank, so called because this rock was cut through, by Agrippa, for the passage of a great Roman high- 1/lleBarbe. way. You come next to Vile Baroe, the favorite retreat of Charlemagne, with a kind of watch-tower at the upper end of the island, from which, it is said, the emperor surveyed his Paladins marching by on the shore, and with a suspension bridge on each side. Below this is an antique castle, on the left bank, sur- mounted by a lofty tower, called La Tour de la Belle Allemande, from a tra- dition of a German girl being immured OUTLINE TOUR LYONS. 107 in it, while her lover wae slim up in Lyons Pierre Seise, a prison on a high rock, on the right bank, further down, and now within the suburbs of Lyons. The story is, that he escaped by leaping into the Saone, but was shot while swimming across it. And now, between lofty and rocky banks, you enter the city of Lyons, and will find rest at the Hotel cle Pro- vence et des Ambassadeurs, Place de la Charite; or Hotel d> Univers, Eue de Bourbon ; or Hotel de Pome, Place St. Jean, near the Cathedral. April 23, Sat.— From the Cathedral, passing by the Palais de Justice, pre- senting a fine Corinthian 'front ; ascend the Height of Fourvieres, passing in rear of the huge, straggling hospital of Anti- quailles, occupying the site of the ancient Roman palace, in which Claudius and Caligula were born, and visit the Church of Xotre Dame de Fourvieres, remark- able for its votive offerings, 4,000 in num- ber, to the image of the Virgin Mary here, which is supposed by the people to have wrought divers miracles, and to have preserved Lyons from the cholera. Close beside this church is a tower, or Observatory, rising 630 feet above the level of the Saone, by climbing which you will have a splendid panorama of Lyons and its environs. In the north- west, you may see, by the help of a tele- scope, some remains of an ancient Roman "(jueduct; on the north is the suburb of La Croix Pousse, occupying the high ground between the Sadne and the Rhone, with a large convent, and a Garden of Plants ; and in the east, if the air be clear, you may not only behold the Rhone meandering on its way from Geneva, but Mont Blanc itself is vis'ible on the horizon. 108 OUTLINE TOUR LYONS. nearly 100 miles distant. Fourvilres is so named from the Forum Vetus, which was built by the emperor Trajan; and the keeper of the Observatory will point out to you the various objects visible from this remarkable height. Thence, if not pressed for time, descend circuitously by the Cemetery of Loyasse, and the Fort of Loyasse near by it, and, turning eastward, skirting the Saone, you will pass the Pierre Seise, already referred to in the suburbs of Vaise, once the site of the archbishop's castle. Next cross the Pont de Nemours, and visit the Church of St. Nizier east of it, "a splendid example of the flamboyant Gothic." Then turning northward, by the Place St. Pierre, visit the Place des Terreaux, where Cinq Mars and De Thou were executed for conspiring against the Cardinal Eichelieu, and where the guillo- tine stood in 1794. On the south side of Museum. this square is the Museum, or Palais des Beaux Arts, including a collection of An- tiquities, a Picture Gallery, a Museum of Natural History, and a Public Library. On the east side of the Place des Ter- reaux is the Hotel de Ville, or City Hall, in the vestibule of which observe two gigantic statues, representing the two rivers, Le Rhone resembling Neptune, and La Saone a sea-nymph. Behind this building is the Theatre; passing which, cross the Rhone, by the Pont Moraud, to the Place Louis XVI., in the suburb called Les Brotteaux ; then turn south- ward, by the new Church des Brotteaux, and visit the Monumental Chapel near it, in the form of a pyramid, erected in 1821, to the memory of the victims, or martyrs, as they are called, of the first revolution, who were here shot down. OUTLINE Toil: LYONS. to the number of 2,100, by the orders of the infamous Collot d'Herbois and his Associates, after Lyons was taken by the republicans, or rather the Terrorists, in 1793. The victims were tied to ropes, and shot down, sixty at a time: hence this massacre is known as the fusillades. Then, crossing the Pont de la Guillo- tiere, observe, facing you on the right, the hospital called Hotel Dieu, with its extended front, said to be the richest hospital in the world; and on your left, the Hospice de la Charite. vieing with the preceding. Proceed westward to the Place Bellecour, and observe there the statue of Louis XIV., which has been rebuilt since Lvons was nearly destroyed by the Terrorists, in 1793-4. You will now have seen the best part of the city ; but may turn southward, and visit the Place Louis XVIII., the Oours Napo- leon, extending across from river to river, and the Gave de Perraclie; or it will be more interesting to visit one of the silk weavers, who are so numerous, and wit- ness the process of weaving figured silk in a Jacquard loom. You have now the option of reaching Routes to Italy. Italy by way of Geneva and the Simplon, or by way of Mont Cenis and Turin, or by way of the Ehone and Marseilles. The choice undoubtedly lies between the two latter ; and Turin is Avell worth visit- ing, although the ride over Mont Cenis at this season may be severely cold. But, on the whole, the writer would recom- mend to continue down the Rhone, which he thinks more picturesque and interesting than it is generally represent- ed to be, and so to visit Avignon, N ismes, Aries, and Marseilles, instead of Turin; and for mountain scenery, enough of it 109 110 OUTLINE TOUR LYONS. may be had at a warmer season. This will be doing better justice to France ; and will make an easier route to Genoa, if not a pleasanter, than that by way of Turin. Here, at least, we will proceed by way of Marseilles. April 24, Sunday. — Attend the English Church service in the Chapelle Euin- gelique, No. 36, Eue de l'Arbre section, and the Eomish service at the Cathedral of St. John Baptist, near the west end of the Pont de Tilsit. Perhaps it will not be desecrating the Sabbath to visit the St. Iren6e. Church of St. Irenee, in the Faubourg St. Irenee, the western part of the city. It is a plain, modern building, but occu- pies the spot where Ireeneus, the second bishop of Lyons, suffered martyrdom : and in the ancient crypt beneath it, where Poly carp is said to have once preached, is a well which once over- flowed with the blood of 9,000 martyrs, slain by order of Septimius Severus, a. d. 202, and a recess is filled with their bones. The Fort St. Irenee is not far distant from this church. It may be proper also to visit the Church of the Abbey of Ainay, east of the Pont d'Ainay, which is next below the Pont de Tilsit. Beneath the sacristy of this church is an ancient dungeon, where PotJiinus, the first bishop of Lyons, and the heroic Blandina were imprisoned before their martyrdom, in the time of Marcus Aurelius, a. d. 177. Here, it is supposed, stood the Athenosum, erected by Caligula, where prizes were bestowed for superiority in debate or composition. The Ehone. April 25, Mon. — Descend the Ehoneto Avignon, by steamboat : the distance by the river being about 135 miles. From Givors, 14 miles, on the right, recognized OUTLINE TOUR THE RHONE. Ill by the smoke of its glass-works, a rail- The ^j 1 ^ Mar " road diverges southwestward, to St. Eti- enne. You next come to Vienne, 21 miles, on the left bank, extending along the Rhone, and up the valley of the small river Gere, between two hills, Mont Salo- mon on the left, crowned with a ruined Castle, in which it is said that Pontius Pilate was imprisoned when banished to this place, and Mont Pvpet, once the site of a Roman camp. This town was anciently called Vicnne, and is noted for the mar- tyrs who suffered there in the early per- secutions. It is conjectured by some that Hannibal here crossed the Rhone, on his way to Italy. The Museum is an ancient Roman temple, supposed to have been dedicated to Augustus. In the middle ages, Viennewas the capital of Dauphiny, and residence of the Dauphins. The Cathedral of St. Maurice is conspicuous from the shore, and a suspension bridge here crosses the Rhone: such bridges being numerous as you proceed. Observe the fields of the colza, or rape plant, which are now probably conspicuous from their yellow blossoms. You pass a suspension bridge at Condrieu, 28 miles, on the right bank ; another at Serriers, 39 miles ; and another at St. Vallier, 50 miles, on the left bank, with a large modern chateau, and the ruins of the Castle gf Vals in the rear, in the gorge of the Galaure. A little below St. Val- lier is the Chateau de Ponsas, on the west side, said to derive its name from Pontius Pilate, who, according to one tradition, ended his days here by throw- ing himself off the rock. Thence you pass the celebrated vineyard of L' 'Her- mitage, on the left side, just before reach- ing Tour noil GO miles, on the right bank, 112 OUTLINE TOUR THE RHONE. connected with Tain, on the east side, by a suspension bridge, which was the first, on a large scale, erected in France. The old Castle of the Counts of Tournon, on a precipitous rock, is now the mairie and prison ; and the old college of the Jesuits, below the bridge, is now the College Royal. Passing next the Ghdteau Bourg, of M. Gireau, on the west bank, opposite to the valley of the Isere, through which you have a distant view of Mont Blanc, you reach Valence, 70 miles, on the left bank, surrounded by ancient fortifica- tions, and having a conspicuous citadel and a handsome suspension bridge. Here the infamous Caesar Borgia once ruled as Duke of Valentinois, under Louis XII. ; and in the Cathedral is a statue, by Ca- nova, of Pope Pius VI., who died here in 1799. Passing next the ruined castles of Crussol and Soyons, on the limestone cliffs on the right, and after these the Roche Courbe, among the Dauphint* mountains on the left, you will notice the little town of Lavoulte, 80 miles, on the right bank, distinguished by the large castle on the height above it, where Louis XIII. resided in 1629, but now it is used for iron works. Passing the mouth of the Drome on the left, observe next the ruins of the old fortified Abbey of Cruas, 88 miles, and after this, the village of Rochcmaure, 94 miles, marked by three basaltic peaks, on the central one of which is a feudal castle. Monte- limant, nearly opposite to this, but back from the river, is a fortified town, with a castle on rising ground. You come next to Viviers, 100 miles, on the right bank, with its Cathedral standing near the cliff, and a setninarv for the education OUTLINE TOUR AVIGNON. 113 of priests. Observe now, oil the left, Mont Vcntoux, a lofty spur, or extreme buttress, of the Alps, prominent in the distance ; and, passing next the suspen- sion bridge at Bourg St. Andeol, you come to Pont St. Esprit, 112 miles, on the right, just below the mouth of the Ar- deche.' This town is named from the famous stone bridge, of 26 arches, once the longest stone bridge in the world, finished in 1310, by a brotherhood of masons, after having been 45 years in building. The town of Orange, 10 miles southeast of this, gave title to the Prince of Orange, and contains a Triumphal Arch and other Eoman antiquities. ^ It remains to pass the mouth of the Cese, 122 miles, and the town of Roquemaure, 128 miles, on the right, with a tower on the edge of a cliff, and at length you reach Avignon, and may stop at the Ho- Avignon. tel de VEurope, or at the Hotel du Palais Royal, both of which are in the Place d? Oulle, in the extreme western part of the city. April 26, Til.— Visit first the Place de Palace of the Popes. VHorloge, on the west side of which are the Hotel cle Ville and the Theatre. Thence proceed to the Place da Palais, and visit the Palace of the Popes, seven m of whom reigned here, from 1305 to 1376, under French auspices, rivals to the popes reigning at the same time in Rome ; both claiming infallibility and universal supremacy. This huge building is now used for a prison and barracks ; the large hall has been called La Salle Brulee, ever since Pierre de Lude, papal legate in 1441, caused it to be blown up, and thus murdered his guests, the nobles of Avignon, out of revenge. Observe the timeworn frescoes in the GhapelU 6* 114 OUTLINE TOUR AVIGNON, Cathedral. clu Conclave, where the cardinals attend- ed service, and in the Chcvpelle clu Saint Office, attached to the Inquisition ; but the Hall of Torture, where the Inquisi- tors sat, and the tower ties Oubliettes, where Kienzi was once imprisoned, and the Glaciere, a tower where 60 innocent prisoners were thrown into a pit by the revolutionists in 1791, — these are com- prehended in the prison, and inaccessible to strangers. Thence visit the Cathedral of Notre Dame des Doms, in front of which is a calvary, or representation of our Saviour's cross. Observe, in the cathedral, the statue of the Virgin, by Pradier; the tombs of Popes John XXII. and Bene- dict XII. ; and in the choir the arch- bishop's chair, once the papal throne, covered with the Winged Bull of St. Luke and the Lion of St. Mark. Climb the tower, and you will have a fine view of Avignon and its environs. Observe westward, to the left of the broken bridge of St. Benezet, and beyond the suspension bridge, the tower of Ville JSfeuve, and near it the Palace or College of the Cardinals, built at the same time with that of the pope's. Far in the east is the valley of Vaucluse, immortalized by the names of Petrarch and Laura, and to which an excursion would be pleasant if there were time. Next visit the Roclier des Boms, a promenade on a lofty rock north of the cathedral, and observe the statue of Altai n, who intro- duced the cultivation of la garance, the madder plant, in the south of France. On the west, at the foot of this rock, is a Seminary. Proceed next, down the east side of the Eocher des Doms, and south- ward, by way of the Churches of St. OUTLINE TOUR — NI8MES. 115 Pierre and St. Didier, to the Museum, Museum. in the Rue Grande Calede, founded by Oalvet, and observe the paintings of Joseph Vernet, who excelled in sea views; Charles Verne t, his son, who excelled in animals, and Horace Vernet, son of Charles, so distinguished now as a histor- ical painter : all these being natives of Avignon. Adjoining this is a Museum of Natural History, containing specimens of the flamingo, now rare, and the beaver, once found on the Ehone, but now ex- tinct. The tomb of Laura, once in the Church of the Cordeliers, which is now a ruin, has been entirely destroyed ; but its site may be visited, in the Rue des Lices, No. 8, east of the Hospice des Or- phelius. The walls of Avignon, with machicolated cornice and watch-towers, are one of its curiosities. In the afternoon, take the railroad Railway to Nlames. to Nismes, 24 miles : unless you prefer to take a public or private carriage by way of the Pont du Guard, an ancient Eoman aqueduct, 873 feet long, and 180 high, being a part of the canal which supplied Nismes with water. Proceed- ing southward by railroad, you cross the Durance, 24 miles from Xismes ; a tur- bulent stream, flowiDg westward into the Rhone. The first place of note in the way is Tarascon, 12 miles, having a massive square castle by the water side, overtopped by the spire of its Gothic church. The castle begun by Henry II. in 1400, and finished by Rene, king of Anjou, who resided here, is now a pri- son. This town has a legend of a dragon called Tarasque, which was subdued by St. Martha; and from her the church was named. Here you cross the Rhone to Beaucaire, on the west side; back of 116 OUTLINE TOUR NISMES. Nismes. Amphitheatre. Mai son C.arr6e. which are rocky hills, one surmounted by a Calvary, the other by a ruined castle, once helongiug to the counts of Toulous. The Canal de Beaucaire runs from this town, southwestward, and uniting with the Canal du Midi, forms a water com- munication between the Rhone and Ga- ronne. Proceeding hence westward, ahout 12 miles, you come next to NU- mes, and may stop at the Hotel du Lux- embourg, or the Hotel du Midi. Do not fail to visit the Amphitheatre (Les Arenes) by twilight; and if you pro- ceed directly thither from the Hotel du Luxembourg, you will pass the Esplanade or public square ; in the centre of which is a new fountain adorned with statues by Pradier ; and on the right of which is the new Palais de Justice, with an imposing portico. April 27, Wednesday. — If disposed to take an early walk, proceed around the Boulevards, by way of Les Arenes, La Maison Carres, and La Fontaine de Diane, and climb the3font d" 1 Ausscs, north of the city to La Tourmagne, or the great tower, supposed to be the ruin of an ancient Roman tomb ; from the sum- mit of which you will enjoy a fine view of Nismes and its environs. Returning, you may visit the ancient Fountain of Diana, just named, otherwise called the fountain of the Nymphs, with its beauti- ful garden ; fronting on which is an ancient Roman temple, recently disin- terred, called the Temple of Diana, but rathre supposed to have been a Nym- phssnm, or fane dedicated to the Nymphs. Thence visit the Maison Oarree, an ancient Roman temple, con- secrated most probably to the adopted sons of Antoninus, but now used as a OUTLINE TOUR ARLES. 1 1 l Museum, and containing the remarkable Museum. picture of Cromwell opening the coffin of Charles I., and gazing on the dead monarch's remains, by Paul Delaroche. On the right of the Maison Carree is the Theatre, and between this and Les Arenesis a large Hospital. But if there be time it will be preferable to visit the Cathedral, in the heart of the old city, and the Porte oVAuguste, an ancient Roman gate. Take a noon or early afternoon train Railway toMarseiiies. for Marseilles, in order to have time to stop at Aries on the way. You return by the same railroad to Beaucaire and Tarascon, and thence turn southward, passing on your left the rocky height of Montmajeur, crowned with the ruins of its aucient abbey, before reaching Aries, 9 miles from Tarascon; where you may find refreshments, if needed, in the Place du Forum, either at the Hotel Arle3 - du Forum, or at the Hotel du JSTord, in the front of which are two ancient columns, and beneath which are said to be some ancient Roman catacombs. It will be best, however, to proceed at once to Les Artnes, the ancient amphi- theatre, and near this, to the ancient Roman Theatre, now disinterred, in which was found the celebrated statue called the Venus d' Aries. Next visit the cathedral church of St. Trophime, and its curious cloisters. They are near the Place Roy ale, in which is a gray granite obelisk, not Egyptian, and front- ing on which are the Museum and the - Hotel de Ville. The Museum contains but little besides local antiquities, in- cluding sculptured tombs of early Christians, brought from the burying- ground called Alischamiis or the Elysian 118 OUTLINR TOUR MARSEILLES. To Marseilles. Fields, on the eastern margin of the city. If there be time, visit the brick tower called La Troille, near the Rhone, sup- posed to have been built by Constantine the Great, when he resided here, and marking the site of his palace. There is a bridge of boats across the Rhone, con- necting Aries with the Comargue, a name given to the flat region forming a delta between the main river and a smaller branch or mouth west of it. From Aries you pass at first through a flat uninte- resting country, by St. Martin, 10 miles, to St. Ghamas, 24 miles, on the Etang de Berre, a large salt lake or bay com- municating with the Mediterranean. Observe the church of St. Armand, on the ridge ; and there is a Roman bridge here, Pont Flavien, over the Touloubre, with a triumphal arch at each end of it. After this you pass Berre, 32 miles, also on the Etang de Berre, and Pas de Lan- ders, 42 miles ; and you traverse a tun- nel nearly 3 miles long; before reaching Marseilles, 54 miles from Aries; where you will find the best accommodations at the Grand Hotel dcs Empereurs, Rue Canebiere, or the Hotel de Noailles, or Hotel de V Orient. Marseilles. April 28, Thursday. — See Marseilles, and make preparations for sailing by the next steamer to Naples, having regard to funds, the vises of your passport, and securing a passage ; unless you prefer going by land to Genoa, by way of Nice. You will obtain the requisite informa- , tion and assistance at any good hotel. To see the curiosities of Marseilles, in the shortest time, take a conveyance, and proceed by way of the Place Boy ale, the Exchange, the Theatre, and the Cours Bonaparte, to the Promenade or OUTLINE TOUR — MARSEILLES. 119 Jardin Bonaparte, with its column at Maraeill « the west end of the Cours. Then climb the hill southward to the chapel o?JS r otre Dame de la Ga/rde^ within a small fort, and remarkable for its votive offerings. There is a Calvary near it on the east side; and from this hill you have a splendid view of Marseilles, surrounded by its amphitheatre of hills, and the country seats called les Bastides; with the harbor, and the bay, and the blue Mediterranean in the distance. Looking seaward, you behold the little island of If, with its castle, once the prison of Mirabeau ; and beyond it the islands of Ratonneau and Pomegue, the latter be- ing the more southern, between which is a breakwater to shelter the quarantine roadstead, called Port du Frioul (Fre- tum Julii), where Csesar's squadron was stationed when he besieged Marseilles. Looking to the entrance of the inner harbor, you see the Fort St. Nicholas on the nearer side, and, on the left beyond it, the light-house and the village of the Catalans, a peculiar tribe of fishermen; while on the right of it are the church of St. Victor, the most ancient in Mar- seilles, with battlemented towers, once noted for its abbey ; and the Bassin de Carenage, a wet dock for repairing ves- sels. The farther fort, at the harbor's mouth, is Fort St. Jean ; and beyond this is seen the new harbor Port de la Joliettc, formed by artificial moles and a breakwater in front. Not far from this, and beyond the city, is seen the Lazaret, or quarantine hospital, built in consequence of the great plague in 1720. Returning now from Notre Dame de la Garde, and passing around the inner li arbor bv the Hotel ds Ville, visit the 120 OUTLINE TOUR MARSEILLES. Marseilles. Consigne or health-office, and see the pictures there commemorative of the plague. Thence pass around by the Fort St. Jean, to the Place de la Major, and visit the church of Notre Dame de la Major, a Eoman building, once a tem- ple of Dinaa, but now used as the cathe- dral. The interior is well preserved. Thence, drive to the Arch of Triumph, at the Place de la Porte cPAix, and then, turning southward, traverse the Eue d'Aix, and the Grand Oours, until oppo- site the Eue Canebiere ; then turn east- ward, if you have time, and visit the Museum and Picture Gallery, near the College, at the head of the Marche des Capucins. Then, turn southward to the Place Notre Dame du Mont, so named from the church fronting it ; and thence westward, by the Boulevard des Paris-. siens, to the Place Interieur dc la Porte de Rome, and you are again on the straight street leading southward from the triumphal Arch to the Place Caste- lane and the Praclo, which is a splendid drive southward, and then westward, perhaps three miles, to the Mediterra- nean. It leads also to the Chateau Bo- relli, which is worth seeing, if time per- mit ; and if detained another day at Marseilles, you may perhaps make an excursion to the aqueduct or Pont de Eoquefavour, some miles distant, forming part of the canal to bring the waters of the Durance to Marseilles. This bridge is 1,300 feet long, and 262 feet high ; greatly surpassing the Eoman Pont du Grard. If detained over Sunday at Marseilles, you will find an English Chapel, and service, at No. 100, Euo Sylvabella. April 28, Friday. — Leave Marseilles OUTLINE TOUR GENOA. 121 by a steamer for Naples, if one sail that Steamer to Genoa. day. It will probably sail in the fore- noon, and touch first at Genoa; the dis- tance by sea being about 220 miles, and the time required, 21 hours. Pass- ing the islands already named, off the harbor, you sail at first southward, out of the Gulf of Marseilles ; and then, doubling the rocky cape, turn eastward, and pass the small island of Riou ; after which, beyond Cape Sicie, you will have a distant view of Toulon, in a bay on the left, and may perhaps discern the fort from which Napoleon expelled the English, and thus first displayed his great military talents. You next pass the islands of Ilyires, and beyond Cape Taillat you will perceive Frejus, in the gulf of that name, near which Napoleon landed on his return from Egypt in 1799, and from which he embarked for Elba in 1814. About 20 miles eastward of this is Cannes, where Napoleon landed on his return from Elba, to triumph and fall, in 1815. Farther on is Nice, a town of no great note; and near it the Principality of Monaco, con- taining only 6,000 inhabitants, — one of the smallest monarchies in the world. No other places of note are passed be- fore reaching Genoa, which will pro- bably be early in the morning. The villages westward from the light-house or Fanale of Genoa, seen as you approach it, are San Pietro d' Arena, Cornigliano, Sestri, Pegli, and Yoltri. The forts on the heights back of the city are Fort Bugatto on the west ; Fort Sjyeroni, central; and Fort Castellazzo eastward. There is a royal dock-yard, called La FiKjnio, east of the city/beyond the tor- rent of Bisagno ; and the mountain be- 122 Genoa. Palace. Poorhouse. Dogana. Cathedral. Dncal Palace. OUTLINE TOUR GENOA. yond this is called Mt. Porto Pino. The entrance into the harbor is between the Molo JSfuovo or new pier on the west, and the Molo Vecchio or old pier on the right. Observe from the harbor the old palace and garden of Andrea Doria, once given to him by the state, with terraces, and a gigantic statue of him in rear. Observe also, more to the right, the Bagne or convict prison, and the Dar- scena or royal docks and arsenal, near the shore, in rear of which is the Royal Palace, and back of this is the great hospital called the Albergo de^Poveri; and still more to the right is the Dogana or custom-house. The remains of the old fortifications are still to be seen, just in rear of the city ; and the conspicuous church in the east, of a reddish hue, with a lofty dome, and two slender towers in front, is the church of Santa Maria di Carignano. April 30, Saturday. — Go ashore at Ge- noa, and see the city, employing a guide. Near the Dogana you may see hanging from the wall, a chain taken from the city of Pisa in a former war. Enter the hall of St. George in the Dogana, and you may see numerous marble statues of the old Doges of Genoa. Then visit the ca- thedral of San Lorenzo, in a semi-oriental style, with two marble lions in front, and fine paintings within. Observe the chapel of John the Baptist, which is thought to contain his mortal remains, brought from Palestine. Next visit the Ducal Pul ace, now used as a court- house ; and see the large hall once adorned with statues of the Doges, which were destroyed during the revo- lution. Next visit the church of St. Ambrose, near by, which contains an OUTLINE TOUR UKNOA. 123 Assumption by Guido. Then, pass by ralaces, viz. ; the Piazza di San Domeniclw, on which fronts the Theatre, and the Academy; and visit the Palazzo Pallcmceini to see Paiavicdni, the Madonna della Colonna, by Raphael. Next visit the Guarda Nazionale, which is the city hall, in the Strada Nuova, to see if possible, the bust, and autograph letters of Columbus. Next visit the Palazzo Brignole Sale, called, from its BHgnole Sale, red color, Palazzo Rosso, in the same street, to see its collection of paintings. Next visit the Church of San Siro, SanSiro, named from Cyrus, an ancient bishop, and containing statues of the 12 apostles ; and next the church of the Amiunziata, Annumiata, which has been renewed within, and is gorgeous with fresco and gilding. The churches are closed from noon to 4 o'clock p. m. Next visit the Palazzo Reale, B<-