F 2223 . R35 1919 Copy * The PAN AMERICAN UNION JOHN BARRETT : : : : Director General FRANCISCO J, YANES : Assistant Dire SEEING SOUTH AMERICA Principal Routes Larger Cities Natural Wonders Time Required Approximate Cost and Other Condensed Information for Prospective Travelers WASHINGTON, D. C. 1919 T5o \^ 1919, Pan A merican I ' ■: Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from of Cong The Library bf-Cdngrfss. http://www.archive.org/details/seeingsouthameriOOreid FOREWORD BY JOHN BARRETT Director General. Pan American Union WITH the dawn and growth of the world's new- era, it seems reasonable to believe that travel upon land, on the sea, and in the air, will be greater than at any period of the past. The tendencies of the times are to visit lands other than one's own, to lend aid in upbuilding, in modernizing, in developing, to buy and to sell; and these activities foreshadow increased passenger traffic all over the world. The articles, of which this booklet is a reprint, first appeared in the English edition of the Bulletin of the Pan American Union. They were written in order to aid the traveler, who for business or pleasure, turns his course toward the great and promising Continent of South America. It does not in any sense purport to be a complete guide, for the several large volumes already on the market cover South American travel in detail. It does, however, aim to answer some of the most frequently asked questions that come to the Pan American Union from prospective travelers who are planning their first journey to the Southern Con- tinent. The names of hotels are not included, as directories covering_ South American hostelries in cities and towns are readily available in this country and aboard ships that sail to far southern ports. The author, William A. Reid, Trade Adviser of the Pan American Union, has made numerous trips to all parts of Latin America and is an acknowledged authority on the subject of travel and trade. Seeing South America PAGE The Start — East Coast 5 The Far South 28 The West Coast 43 The Caribbean Nations 63 Seeing South America 1 The Start — East Coast TRAVELING for business or pleasure is a field of activity that has grown to enormous proportions during recent years, and one that ramifies into practically every quarter of the globe. Several years of disturbed international conditions, however, seriously affected the vast army of regular and prospective travelers. They were deflected from their accustomed courses or were compelled to remain at home. But a new travel era seems to be dawning ! A famous writer has said that the four greatest marvels of the universe are the mountain, the sea, the volcano, the desert. All of these and many more wonderful sights are now at the bidding of these who would cultivate an acquaintance with the South American continent and its peoples. The latter are now welcoming the traveler from foreign shores and are gradually improving the things that minister to his comfort and convenience. Instead of climbing Switzerland's rugged peaks, the enterprising traveler is invited to ascend the higher Andes to examine the homes left by the Incas and, perchance, contrast them with the low, rock- hewn caves of India's Elephanta ; he who has gazed in silent admira- tion upon Japan's sacred and symmetrical Fujiyama will be doubly pleased to see its counterpart in Ecuador's smoking Cotopaxi ; sailing up South American rivers to forests where man has never trod may be just as appealing as a voyage along the Nile to view the decaying works of the hordes of past ages ; in lieu of a stroll on the chariot- worn streets of Pompeii, we may meander amid the ruins of Bolivia's Tiahuanacu, a city that flourished possibly 3,000 years ago ; indeed, the whole continent of South America calls for more travelers to view its productive regions and its wonders — subjects that have not been exaggerated as compared with similar ones of other lands. South America is vast, her cities and natural wonders, unlike those of Europe, are usually widely separated, and the traveler must not ex- pect to flit birdlike from one place to another as in Europe and the United States. Neither must he expect to find the same degree of com- fort and luxury that are characteristic of the more thicklv populated regions of the earth. Europe has about 333 people per square mile ; the United States, 34 people for each square mile ; while some of the South American countries have barely 3 people spread over similar areas. The stranger should not be surprised, therefore, should he 1 By William A. Reid, Trade Adviser, Pan American Union. alight some day at a small railway station or river port and rind no uniformed attendant to assist him. Travel aids and comforts can not be maintained in places where the traveler is rarely seen, so what we might term "pleasure travel pioneering" fitly applies to certain parts of South America today. In most cities the travel facilities are greatly superior to those I found, say, 5 or 10 years ago. In the larger cities the reasonable traveler will have comparatively few causes for com- plaint ; and in some cases he will find even better services at cheaper rates than in parts of the I nited States or Europe. For instance, the public carriage service in Buenos Aires, made possible by the inroad of the automobile over the use of the older vehicle. Strictly speaking, the word "tourist" is one who makes a tour or performs a journey in a circuit. This circular course is especially suit- able for any traveler who endeavors to see at least the larger cities of South America on one trip. Passenger steamers are available for sail- ing southward on one ocean and voyaging northward on another, while the choice of a transcontinental railway journey or a picturesque voyage through the Straits of Magellan form another part of the lengthy tour. Many prospective travelers are confronted with the question of which direction is best to take on starting from the United States. There are various things that enter into either itinerary, and no iron- clad rule can be laid down. That which suits one person may be dis- liked by another. But after traveling a number of times southward by the Atlantic and returning via the Pacific, and vice versa, the writer prefers sailing first for the eastern countries of the continent. The voyage of ten days or two weeks between New York and the coast of Brazil seems doubly tedious when the traveler is tired, which is likely to be the case if he is returning from the circular tour. If he starts out fresh from New York, the ocean for some days at least is a novelty, and the time quickly passes. Furthermore, the ship's food is fresher on the outward voyage, as the Atlantic steamers usually obtain supplies in New York in sufficient quantities to last during the round trip to Buenos Aires, with the possible exception of fruits and a few other articles. Traveling through the Panama Canal and on the Pacific is done by rather easy stages, frequent stops being made, which break the tedious sea voyage. From New York to Buenos Aires there are about four or five regular ports of call ; from the former to Valparaiso there are at least 12 or 15 ports visited, each furnishing glimpses of people and conditions more or less interesting. A CLOSE VIEW OF THE RAILWAY UP THE HEIGHTS OF CORCOVADO. The peak may be seen in the distance; it rises about 2,800 feet above the city of Rio de Janeiro, and from the ob- servatory on its summit one of the world's most wonderful lews is obtained. About halfway up the electric car stops at a restaurant and passengers may purcnasetrefreshments. Q T* m a '{J o C O cs '■S '^ m FALLS OF ITAPURA, TIETE RIVER, SAO PAULO, BRAZIL. One of the numerous cataracts obstructing the course of the Tiete River, which flows a distance of 500 miles from the western slope of the Serra do Mar to the Alto Parana River. The rapids of this river furnish the electric light and power for the city of Sao Paulo. In a distance of less than half a mile there is a fall of 33 feet. may be brought to a still lower figure. It is unwise, however, to prac- tice such rigid economy, and a more liberal allowance of from $12 to $15 per day per person will provide many pleasures and additional sights, and at the end of the journey the traveler will hardly regret the increased outlay. Hotel rates for room and meals in the larger cities may be figured at from $4 to $5 daily per person when traveling in pairs. I have met foreign ladies in various parts of South America travel- ing together without male escorts ; this custom is uncommon in the Latin countries, but the ladies referred to were pleased with their ex- periences and reported no serious troubles. "Hozv shall I take funds to South America?" Letters of credit issued by the leading American banks, those issued by several tourist companies, express letters of credit, and express orders for small amounts of from $10 to $50 are the most convenient forms in which to carry money. Today American gold finds a ready exchange in South America and at fair rates ; a few years ago English gold was prefer- able because it was better known and everywhere acceptable. Numer- ous branches of United States banks are now established in Rio de Janeiro, Santos, Montevideo, Buenos Aires, Santiago, Lima, La Paz, Guayaquil, Panama, and other places, and they offer additional finan- cial conveniences for the traveler. Many of the South American banks and the branches of those of Europe also honor letters of credit of foreign banking houses. Before starting on a tour it is wise to procure a small amount of currency of the country to which one is bound. At the leading tourist offices in American cities one may buy money of almost any land at reasonable rates. If going first to Brazil it will be very convenient to have on hand a few milreis, the money of that country, to spend for incidentals before one has a chance to visit the Brazilian banks. The same course may be followed from country to country, trading the currency of the land one is leaving for that of the next Republic to be visited. "What kind of clothing shall I take zvith me to South America?" is a question constantly asked by the prospective traveler. The seasoned voyager, believing in preparedness for climatic changes regardless of whither his course leads, sails forth well fortified for varying temperatures. The South American traveler should do like- wise. Aboard ship, whether the itinerary is laid via Panama or down the Brazilian coast, light summer clothing will be required at all seasons and for many of the days spent aboard ship. As the vessel nears 12 cue/; r; t! OS"? t, 3 M rd ai-,3 m 0.. cd 3 -■ a cd 3 i s5 „ cd c w — : Tia •^ td u ? cd ™i3 cd ScS -T M 5 i? e £ i— i o O.C : 3 - — - O -w _ CJ . CD C to-.j- o to O ""'55 c to c— c"2 (3 rt o >- ^: ■- c - i somewhat deserted at night for the amusement places, hotels, and cafes of the upper city. Upon arrival at Bahia the ship often anchors far put in the bay and the visitor has a fine view of the city before going ashore; for the latter purpose small boats manned by natives are used, and the fare per person is usually from I to 2 milreis, depending upon whether the time is day or night and condition of weather. If the traveler has a few hours on land an automobile or an electric car may be taken for Rio Yermelho, an attractive suburb undergoing improvements. The delicious fruits are a feature of strangers' visit to Bahia; oranges may be purchased for the equivalent of 1 or 2 cents American money. Several hotels, one a new structure, offer opportunities for trying Brazilian food ; from hotel verandas one may watch the afternoon or evening crowds and thereby obtain a fair idea of local activities. If one is visiting a Latin country for the first time, Bahia will prove a revelation, as the many bright-colored residences, interspersed among beautiful tropical foliage, is especially pleasing to the novice. The traveler should wander on foot through the shops of the lower city, as such a trip reveals native characteristics and shows a bit of the business life of the people; the evening view over the harbor and its shipping is also interesting. About three days are required for the average vessel to make the run from Bahia to Rio de Janeiro, a distance of 745 miles. The Brazilian shore is in view most of the time. Some ship masters aim to round Point Cabo Frio about the break of day, and shortly there- after the vessel enters the Bay of Rio de Janeiro. This is one of the most beautiful harbor scenes that nature presents in any part of the world. Descriptions by the most gifted writers are inadequate, and neither painter nor photographer can depict the marvelous beauties with which nature has endowed the Brazilian capital. It must be seen and studied under varying conditions — at daybreak, at dusk, from Corcovado, from Tijuca, and from other points mentioned in the guide books. Oakenfull's Brazil, printed in English and Portuguese, and other books are to be found in the leading bookstores of the city. Rio de Janeiro has more than a million population. Its streets and avenues are interwoven among little mountains and hills, and archi- tects have taken advantage of nature's plans and constructed many picturesque villas on the sides of overhanging cliffs. The city lies within a Federal district, about eight times larger than the District of Columbia. Great civic improvements mark recent years, sanitation £5 a £§.S O rt C Oj o M OJ s 1 > ~ cd £ a I- Sfflo O j- > c w z o = -So a; u ■-- C V o — "m C-O is has been brought to a high state of efficiency, and the traveler who observes ordinary precautions has little to fear from disease. Hotels are numerous and fairly reasonable in their charges. Four to six dollars per day are usual rates. The Extrangeiros, the Central, the Avenida, and the International, are among the best. The latter is situated on the mountain side half an hour by electric car from the heart of the city. A very fine hotel building was recently completed. If the traveler has only a few days in Rio de Janeiro he should, of course, see the most important sights first. By climbing Corcovado by the electric cog road a wonderful view of the many sections of the city is obtained ; also an excellent view is to be seen from the top of Sugar Loaf Peak, reached by hanging trolley. The Tijuca motor-car trip, made in a few hours, covers a wide range of subjects and scenery. The Botanical Garden, the National Museum, the Monroe Palace, the celebrated shopping street called Ouvidor (new name Moreira Cesar) are easily reached by the electric cars from the principal hotels. The seaside resort of Copacabana, especially if the time be summer (November-February), will reveal a phase of the Brazilian at play. If time permits, a rail trip to Petropolis, made in half a day, will be found interesting. This little city is high up in the Organ Mountains and is the summer residence of many well-to-do Brazilians and foreigners. Formerly the foreign diplomats lived there, but improvements in the capital city have caused many to reside permanently in Rio de Janeiro. After the traveler has viewed the sights of the Brazilian capital, if southward bound, a train trip to Sao Paulo, 300 miles southwestward, will land one at the Chicago of Brazil. There is usually a day train and a night train, the latter carrying sleepers ; the former is best for those who are interested in catching views of slightly interior sec- tions of Brazil and some of the business enterprises along the route. Sao Paulo is a very active business city, with 500,000 population; it is the capital of the State of the same name, the latter comprising millions of acres of the Brazilian coffee region. There are splendid public buildings, new and modern hotels, and good automobile and carriage services are offered the visitor at reasonable rates. About 3,500 miles of railways radiate from this city into interior regions, and if the traveler has time an interesting excursion may be made to some of the great coffee plantations. Mackenzie College, an American institution which has done such splendid work in educational fields, is located in Sao Paulo, and is well worth seeing. A visit to the new Municipal Theater and a drive through the rapidly modernizing resi- 20 w o g < 2 J3 O U-* Z, o fa ■° t> < g-a % "x; Q ■wo JS d < o-° 1) w •as* K m c H J3 CI fa - & O o o .j3 Z to CO o r rt •*-* H U aa t; d fa . ° w fa fa to u % ° 3 °" fa — o - >* fa S 60 3 O fa O oU m T3 fa S.2 C cj '55 d > 3 d •C fa tu o o S w ■- '•3% at M ID'S w O z w PQ 5 H Bz < -a J' ►-, c<2 A O H < H w W g H Z W o P4 < < Pi H Z w a £ w z w H ° 1 s^ OliS ST3 "5, -a CD - Sti, .£ c 2 ^ c 5 £"3 _) ►J < S ►J < Pi H 15 W O dential section of the city is recommended; Paulista Museum contains many interesting Brazilian products. From Sao Paulo to Santos a railway, 50 miles lung, affording mag- nificent tropical views, transports the traveler to the world's greatest coffee port. Ships now go alongside the docks recently completed. Many passenger vessels north or south hound call at Santos, so the traveler may journey by rail from Rio de Janeiro via Sao Paulo and meet his ship at Santos. Visits should be made to the great coffee warehouses, and a trolley trip to Guaruja will take the visitor past some of the important enterprises of the city. Santos has a population of about 50,000. There is railway connection between the capitals of Brazil and Uruguay; but it is not advisable, on account of irregular trains and primitive conditions, for the average traveler to attempt to make this journey by land, as at present it requires about a week, or double the steamer's schedule time. The capital of Uruguay lies on the direct route of the traveler to South American countries, and practically all of the steamship com- panies operating in that part of the world have their vessels call at Montevideo. The latter is one of the cleanest cities found on the Continent; it has a population of 400,000, is distant from Xew York about 5,760 miles, and its harbor is considered one of the best in South America, the bay being 6 miles wide. The hotels of Montevideo are numerous, and some of them quite modern, with steam heat, which is frequently demanded when the cold winds from the Atlantic prevail even in the summer months of November, December, and January. Visits may be made by automobile, carriage, or electric trolley to suburban resorts of Pocitos, Ramirez, and to the many beautiful parks in the city proper. The magnificent Solis theater is one of the attrac- tions for the stranger to visit ; at the Cathedral, especially on Sunday mornings, a line of splendidly dressed people arriving and departing by motor cars and afoot present a glimpse of the aristocratic classes. Many visitors enjoy a drive to the Cerro, the great hill that dominates the city and from which a fine view is obtained. Paseo de Molino and Plaza Matrix should be visited. Uruguay is the smallest of the South American Republics, being •about the size of the New England States; it is a very prosperous agricultural and pastoral land, and claims the "largest kitchen in the world'' at Frey Bentos, where approximately 2,000 cattle are turned into beef extract daily. The latter city is off the average traveler's - 7 3 itinerary 3 but if time permits it may be reached in a few hours by rail from Montevideo. About a hundred miles up the River Plata, or 5,860 miles from New- York, lies the largest city of the continent — Buenos Aires. Today the latter has a population of 1,700,000, and its peoples form a cosmo- politan mass, gathered from all parts of the world. Argentine immi- gration in several normal years averaged nearly 1,000 persons a day, most of whom drifted to the country to find work on the hacienda or farm. Fine hotels are to be enjoyed; and to many travelers the gay life along the Avenida de Mayo will make strong appeals. Hotels and cafes on this great avenue are numerous and there is always a constant flow of people. At one end of this avenue stands the capitol of the nation ; at the other end, in the Government Palace, are situated the various offices of government. So many important things press upon the traveler's attention in Buenos Aires that one will find it best to map out a course based on his inclination and desires, unless there are weeks of time available for getting acquainted with the great city and its activities. The guide book, Baedeker of the Argentine, may be found at leading bookstores. This admirable work is by Albert B. Martinez, a native Argentine, and its 500 pages contain a fund of information suitable for all classes of travelers, not only for those visiting" the capital but for those interested in other sections of the country. There is an English edition ; and one of the most important chapters for the stranger is "How to employ one's time.'' The following are some of the important places visited by the average stranger : Government Palace, Capitol Building, Recoleta Cemetery, Jockey Club Building and also the race course, Colon Theater, the wool market at Riachuelo, Fine Arts Museum, water works, Palermo, Tigre, etc. The writer suggests taking tea at Harrod's at about 5 p. m., when many of the members of society are usually present ; a walk on Calle Florida between 4 and 6 o'clock in the afternoon to see the shopping crowds and the business men, and a ride on the new underground railroad from the Plaza de Mayo to Cabillito. Carriages and automobiles are plentiful in Buenos Aires, and the former are to be hired at very reasonable rates. For a peso (44 cents) one may drive for a number of blocks; automobiles are somewhat higher than the rates prevailing in the United States, but every driver or chauffeur has a rate card authorized by the city authorities and the stranger is thus protected against exorbitant charges. 25 m Hi SCENE ON AN ARGENTINE RANCH. We are inclined to think of Argentina as a vast stretch of plain without artistic aspects. The view here portrayed is a scene on San Juan Leonardo Pereyro estancia. From Buenos Aires the traveler may visit with little loss of time one or more ranches quickly reached by train. La Plata, Argentina's model city (population 100,000), lies within 35 miles of Buenos Aires and there are many trains daily between the two cities; the former also has a number of fine Government build- ings, an interesting museum, court buildings, university and observa- tory, and various other attractions. The round trip may be made in half a day. Rosario, the second city of Argentina, with a population of 250,000, lies 200 miles up the Plata River; it may be reached by river steamer or by railway train, and if the traveler goes by rail and returns by steamer the time is well spent. The railway trains pass through a prosperous wheat section, while the river trip gives one a glimpse of the vast traffic that passes up and down the Plata. GENERAL VIEW OE ONE OF TTIE MANY PARKS OF BUENOS AIRES 27 The Far South THE traveler while in the far southland may wish to make the trip to Asuncion, the capital of Paraguay and the metropolis of one of the two interior nations of the continent; and perhaps this desire is increased for the reason that a few hundred miles off the well-traveled route to Asuncion, lies the great Cataract of the Iguazu. Suppose, then, a few weeks are available for making this rather unusual journey ; exact time can not be stated, as much depends upon railway and steamboat connections and the condition of river waters. From Buenos Aires one may go to Asuncion by train or by river steamer. It is less tiresome to travel northward by the former ; the return trip by the Paraguay and Plata Rivers is then made in shorter time by steaming with the current. There is a weekly or sometimes a semi-weekly through train in operation between the capitals of the two countries ; the usual time required to cover the distance of approxi- mately 1,000 miles is about 2 l / 2 days. Steamers make the up-river run in from 3 to 5 days. To visit the Falls of the Iguazu the traveler leaves the train at Posadas (or steamer at Corrientes), a small Argentine town on the Alto Parana River opposite the Paraguayan town of Encarnacion, about 45 hours after departing from Buenos Aires. Here transfer is made to one of the little steamers that ply up and down the Alto Parana. These steamers leave Posadas every few r days, there being several boats in the service which carry passengers. The Iberd and the Salto are among the best. If close connection is not made, the traveler must stop over at Posadas, where there are several hotels, primitive, but undergoing improvements. After three days' voyaging up the Alto Parana, making calls at little ports along the way and stop- ping at night at quiet coves, the traveler is landed at Port Aguirre ; this place is about half a mile from the mouth of the Iguazu River. If the time be between the months of March and September one has arrived at the best season for viewing the falls. The boat then proceeds to the head of steam navigation on the Alto Parana, and a few days later calls for the traveler on the return trip. In the meantime, the proprietor of the building at Port Aguirre provides food and cots, and also mules or a coach for visiting the falls, about 11 miles distant. The route leads through a jungle where no habitations exist, but along the way one is interested in giant forest trees, wild flowers, creeping vines, birds, butterflies, and now and 28 then a small animal is seen glaring from the thick undergrowth. The muleteers, however, are provided with rifles, and there seems to be little danger of being molested by denizens of the forest. Arriving at the falls, the traveler finds several small buildings within which are cots, tables, chairs, etc., and he can make himself fairly comfortable ; but the insects are annoying, both night and day. A powder called Bufach, which may be purchased before leaving Buenos Aires, is generally quite effective. Food is brought from Port Aguirre. Sometimes one of the muleteers shoots a bird or catches a fish, and thus adds to the menu. It is worthy of remark that several mineral waters or Argentine wine may be purchased at Port Aguirre and brought with one; few travelers drink the river or spring waters, although they appear perfectly pure. The Falls of the Iguazu are beautiful, magnificent, wonderful, and as a whole rank as one of the world's greatest cataracts. There are a series of falls, the highest having a drop of 210 feet, as compared with 164, the greatest single fall at Niagara. Opinions differ, of course, in drawing comparisons of world cataracts. The Iguazu thunders and whirls amid the solitude of primeval forests, surrounded by giant trees, creeping vines, orchids, and other tropical growth. Only three human beings, a man, woman, and child (when the writer was there), keep vigil, so to speak, over the marvelous freak of nature. They care for the little house or two, and when a visitor comes the woman cooks the food, while her companion acts as guide about the area of the rushing waters. Within a week or 10 days the traveler returns with the little steamer to Posadas, having enjoyed many unusual experiences. He may or may not have to wait again at - Posadas for the train for Asuncion ; it usually passes early in the forenoon once or twice a week. The through cars are transported across the Alto Parana aboard a specially constructed ferry boat, and on the Paraguayan shore, near Embarcacion, are drawn up an incline by steam power. At the station of the Central Paraguay Railway a new train is made up by attaching the cars from Buenos Aires ; a short stop is made at Embarcacion, a town of about 8,000 people, and then begins the journey across Paraguay, which lasts from morning until nearly midnight. Distance, 232 miles. The train carries a dining car and very fair meals are served ; and it is not unusual for passengers to sit the whole day in this car. Strangers prefer to remain in their com- partments of the regular coaches and visit the diner at meal hours. For those who are sociologically inclined there are interesting studies 30 seen at every little station along the route. The business man will be impressed with the large number of cattle and glimpses of lumber industries observed from the train. Asuncion dates from 1536, and most travelers consider it an inter- esting old city. Paraguayan history is well worth reading before arriving or while one tarries within the gates of the capital. Asuncion is only 200 feet above sea level ; average summer temperature, October to March, is 64 F. ; annual mean temperature is about 71° F. ; popula- tion is 80,000 ; electric lights and modern street cars were recently introduced ; buildings are attractive and rather different architecturally from those of other Latin American cities. The stranger should visit the Government Palace ; National Library, a most interesting collection of rare books ; Arsenal ; National Museum, where some beautiful paintings are exhibited ; Tacumba Hill for the excellent view ; and the markets. A day spent at San Bernardino, one hour's time by rail, will give one a good idea of a Paraguayan resort patronized by the best people. The streets of Asuncion are roughly paved, but in the newer section, where most of the foreign legations are located, considerable progress has been made in improving and beautifying the streets and avenues, and automobiles have been introduced. Hotels are fair, and in two of them the writer found modern plumbing and bathing facilities. Extensive port improvements are planned. Steaming down the Parana and Plata Rivers is not without inter- est, and the various short stops will provide the traveler with oppor- tunity for going ashore and visiting the markets and shops of river towns of northern Argentina. The trip from Buenos Aires and return, including the Iguazu, Asun- cion, etc., may usually be made for from $200 to $300, which covers all necessary expenses. From Buenos Aires, the traveler bound for the western countries of the continent has the choice of two principal routes, the other routes not yet being practical for the average traveler. The former is by rail across the Andes, 888 miles to Valparaiso, and the other by steam- ship via the Straits of Magellan, a distance of over 2,000 miles to reach the ports of central Chile. The railway requires two full days and one night, and at the present writing there is a weekly train. If the traveler leaves Buenos Aires a few days in advance of the departure of the transcontinental train, and goes as far as Mendoza, 635 miles westward from Buenos Aires, he may enjoy a short sojourn in one of Argentina's interesting western cities and catch the trans-Andine 32 express as it passes Mendoza. This city has been damaged several times by earthquakes, but each time it has been rebuilt more modern and pretentious than before. Mendoza has 30,000 people and lies at an altitude of about 2,370 feet; the city dates from 1 561. There are many carriages and an increasing number of automobiles. The traveler should take the lat- ter and in a few hours visit one or more of the great "bodegas," or wine establishments, for which the surrounding section is famous ; also visit the hill overlooking the city and see the monument com- memorating the passage of Gen. San Martin over the Andes many vears ago. The monument is one of the most beautiful in all South America, and the view from its base is magnificent. At Mendoza the narrow-gauge railway begins ; it ends at Los Andes on the Chilean side of the mountains and is approximately 160 miles long. All passengers traveling in either direction must, of course, change cars at Mendoza. The start from the latter city is usually made early in the day, and the traveler thus has daylight during the interesting trip, which is replete with splendid views and the sight of marvelous feats of engineering. The tunnel is nearly 3 miles long and lies at an altitude slightly over 10,000 feet; about midway of the tunnel is the boundary of the two countries. The famous statue of Christ the Redeemer stands on the boundary 2,000 feet above the tunnel and is not seen by travelers who use the railway; but if one has a week to spare he may arrange (consult station master, Mendoza) for a mule or coach trip from Punta de las Yacas or Las Cuevas over the mountain pass where the monument stands. At the high altitude of 12,000 feet one often encounters strong winds or snowstorms, and only the robust should undertake the strenuous mule trip over the Lspallata Pass. At Los Andes all passengers must change to stan- dard-gauge trains of Chilean roads. The water route from Argentina to Chile is usually navigated in European steamships, and in normal times fortnightly sailings (at times more frequent) are provided, the length of the voyage being 12 to 14 days. Some of these ships call at the Falkland Islands. 1,000 miles south of Montevideo and several hundred miles east of Tierra del Fuego. The writer considers the call at Port Stanley very interest- ing, and its remoteness from the great throbbing world adds a touch of quaintness. The town has about 1.000 population, and English is largely spoken. Ships anchor in Port William Inlet, a land-locked bay, and small boats convey the traveler ashore. A few large buildings, a cathedral, the residence of the governor, 35 Photo by Lieutenant t J earo Lmersuu. (Jourtesy of Tile Outing iVlagazine. CONTRASTING SCENES IN THE FAR SOUTH Upper: One of the fine residences at Punta Arenas in the Strait of Magellan. This city of 20,000 people is an ocean crossroads, and there are always foreign ships in the harbor. Lower: the lonely lighthouse on Staten Island, which lies northeast of Cape Horn. The home of the lightkeeper is situated a short distance away but is not shown in the picture. soldier barracks, and the shops are quickly seen; a walk back from the town over the hills gives one a better glimpse of the country, bare and brown in appearance. The souvenir hunter has little to find, but in certain seasons, say from November to February, small wild flowers are abundant. East and West Falklands are the two larger islands, which, with many small ones, comprise the Falkland group. Port Stanley now has a wireless tower and may thus communicate with ships or with Punta Arenas. A rather rough sea is likely to be encountered on the voyage from the Falklands to the world's southernmost city, Punta Arenas, 900 miles farther south than New Zealand's city of Christchurch. The former has about 20,000 people, is 6,890 miles from New York, 3,980 miles south of Panama, and is the only place in South America where sleighing and ice skating are common amusements. Latitude 53 . The ship usually anchors a mile or more off the port and small boats are used for going ashore. The traveler will be rather surprised at the number of good buildings, wide streets, and shops. The land rises gradually from the water's edge, and if the traveler will climb the hills back of the city a fine view is obtained of the surrounding country, with distant views of Tierra del Fuego. The little museum in the Colegio Salasiano should be visited ; it contains curios and works of crude art of the natives of the Fuegian Archipelago and other near-by regions. Within the same building is a school, the southernmost seat of learning on the globe, excepting the small classes at Ushuaia, a little further south. A few curios for sale may be found in the shops. Picture postcards are plentiful. There is cable service with the United States and with Europe. The region has 250 days of cloudy or rainy weather a year, while at some seasons the day begins to break not very long after the hour of mid- night. If the ship sails from Punta Arenas in daylight the traveler will be doubly rewarded, especially if the sun shines. Beautiful and sub- lime sights greet the eye. A feeling of loneliness, of helplessness, of one's utter desolation seems to engulf the ship as it steams slowly toward the Pacific, dominated on every side by the wonderful works of the Creator. The traveler should watch for Cape Froward, the southernmost tip of the South American Continent ; and far south- ward may be seen Mount Sarmiento, the highest peak in Tierra del Fuego. As the Pacific Ocean is reached the ship begins to roll ; passengers bid farewell to the "three sister islands" that lie near the western 37 entrance to the Straits, and endeavor to make themselves comfortable. High seas often prevail in this latitude and as the vessel steams north- ward she is likely to have considerable motion. Small steamers often take the Symthe Channel route, but large ships and sailing vessels usually go far out to sea in their northward course. The traveler may land at the first Chilean port of call, which is usually Coronel or Lota, where many vessels take on coal, and go by rail to Concepcion, the southern metropolis of Chile. Concepcion is the third largest city of Chile. It has a population of 52,000 and is about 415 miles south of Santiago. Several hotels, managed by natives and by Germans, offer very fair accommodation, the architecture of the buildings being the two-story plan, with large courts upon which the rooms open. Many private homes are one- story structures, one of the reasons being that in the past earthquakes have caused much damage to property and the lower the structure the less the danger. One of the city's unusual sights for the foreigner is the custom of employing women as street-car conductors. The cars usually have upper and lower sections ; the former, being the cheaper, is used by poorer classes. While in Concepcion take one of the electric cars and visit Talcahuano, Chile's important naval station, which has a popula- tion of 16,000. The famous Cousina estate is not far distant from Concepcion. In the region surrounding Concepcion lie the country's greatest coal mines ; they are actively worked and supply fuel for many passing ships. There is a large German population in Concepcion, which is also the case with the country extending southward to Puerto Montt. Architecture in this section of Chile partakes of German styles. Rural activity of the region is especially noticeable. The traveler has a full day aboard train from Concepcion to Santiago, starting about 7 a. m. Pullman chair cars are in service. The route lies through the valley of Chile, and on either side of the railroad one catches glimpses of the agricultural activity of the people; the little way stations are interesting. In the distance the snowcapped Andes often loom into view, contrasting strongly with the growing crops of the lowlands. Descendants of the aborigines are frequently seen, offering to the traveler homemade trinkets or fruits. Santiago, the capital of Chile, lies on the Mapocho, and is one of the most prosperous as well as one of the prettiest cities of South America. The population numbers about 400,000 ; the climate of the city and the vicinity is pleasant, being more or less similar to that of 39 SCENES IN SANTIAGO, CHILE. Upper: A view of the Alameda de las Delicias, showing the statue of San Martin in the distant center Lower: The National Museum, located in the Quinta Normal, in which are to be found interesting collections illustrating Chilean archaeology, geology, and botany, as well as I istorical relics southern California or the Carolinas. Lack of abundant rains in the summer months (our winter) sometimes makes the surrounding coun- try rather dusty for the traveler ; in the cities and towns, however, street sprinkling prevents this disagreeable feature. The altitude of the city is 1,700 feet; distance to Valparaiso is 115 miles. The new port of San Antonio is considerably nearer the capital, but its chief use at present is the shipping and receiving of freight. Recent years have been marked by many improvements in San- tiago. Several good hotels exist and quite recently two or three new restaurants have been opened ; but, as a Chilean statesman remarked to the writer, "Santiago's hotels have not advanced with the city; we must make them still more attractive to the stranger," which no doubt will be done. Electric cars, automobiles, and carriages convey the traveler about the city ; in case one uses the latter, the good Chilean horses are especially pleasing. One of the first drives or walks should be to the top of the hill of Santa Lucia, where one observes the beau- tiful and unusual treatment applied to a great hill within the heart of the city. The Cerro, as it is called, lies a short distance from the Plaza de Armas, the business heart of Santiago. Once upon the summit a fine view of the city and the surrounding valley is obtained. Several large bookstores near the hotels handle English and Amer- ican books and papers ; the English language is spoken by several of the clerks, and guide-books may be obtained. Some of the attractions for the traveler are : Halls of Congress, Fine Arts- Building, Mint, Cathedral, the race course at Forest Park, Cousifia Park, Agricultural Park, Argentina's legation building, which was presented to that nation by Chile, President's Palace, University of Chile, Santiago Club, and of course the Alameda. The latter is one of the world's widest avenues ; along it stand at intervals statues of the heroes of Chilean history. Glimpses of Chilean social life may usually be obtained by visiting Cousifia Park late in the afternoon or evening, where the wealthier classes are seen riding and driving or enjoying cafe life under spread- ing trees. The Sunday races also attract the cream of society. The band concerts in the Plaza de Armas, about three times a week, are interesting ; they draw large crowds and afford the stranger opportu- nities for mingling with the Chilean people. 41 The West Coast A FTER a pleasant sojourn in the Chilean capital the traveler, in /\ accordance with his itinerary, turns his course northward and ■*- *• homeward. In so doing he should bear in mind these facts: The eastern countries of the Continent have received from early days a stream of European immigration, which has greatly aided their com- mercial and industrial advancement. The countries of western South America have not to any great extent enjoyed the influx of new peoples; neither has European capital responded so freely to their call for financial aid in upbuilding. It should also be remembered that from Straits of Magellan to Panama stretches the world's greatest commerce-defying mountain system. Constructing railways and highways within this region has been the patient toil of years rather than the work of months. Truly, the east coast and the west coast offer wonderful contrasts. Nature evidently designed the former for the man who tills the soil and rears the flock; the latter for those who would delve into the king- dom of minerals. To enjoy our tour to the fullest let us take things as they are; not condemn for lack of progress but, if possible, bestow a word of praise for difficulties surmounted — for ends attained. We are to pass over vast areas where rain never falls ; to visit towns and villages that have been building for a hundred years and more, but are not modern ; and in some cases we shall see the decay- ing marks of peoples who builded marvelously — a challenge to the most skilled constructor of today ; all in all, the remainder of our tour will be quite as interesting as the beginning, but of an entirely different nature as regards sightseeing and development. Planning to leave Santiago for Valparaiso by a morning train, we secure Pullman chair seats a day in advance, and passing down the Alameda in automobile or coach, bid farewell to the Chilean capital. The distance to Valparaiso is 115 miles; fare, 1 12.80 pesos, with 4 pesos extra for Pullman seat (about $3.35 ) ; the time is from 3^ to 4 hours. Probably the most interesting little station along the way is Llai Llai, which has about 3,000 people, and is a junction of the rail- road from southern Chile with the trans- Andine. Roads in this section are standard gauge, and first-class service is maintained. At Llai Llai many native women and children offer delicious fruits and other foods 1 These are rates of normal times; the traveler must expect to find them somewhat higher since the great war. 43 to the traveler ; the fruit is often very tine, hut on account of being exposed to dust should be eaten only after thorough cleansing. The next railroad junction is Calera, where the "Chilean longi- tudinal" continues its course northward. One could travel hundreds of miles northward through the Chilean mining region by this rail- road, but at present fast trains suitable for the average foreign traveler are not operated. As a rule ships are faster and more comfortable ; one could, however, travel slowly by rail and finally enter Bolivia with- out even seeing the ocean. Shortly before arriving in Valparaiso the train halts at Vina del Mar, Chile's great seaside resort. It is considered best to continue to Valparaiso, settle one's self in a hotel, and return by trolley to the resort. Valparaiso (Vale of Paradise) has 200,000 population; the place was named by its founder, Saavedra, after his native village in Spain. Like Naples, Gibraltar, Hongkong, and many other great ports of the world, there is an upper and lower city ; and these are connected by several public elevators and by winding streets. Earthquakes have from time to time wrought destruction, but each time the city rises in more modern form. It is built around a semicircular bay, opening to the north, and occasionally heavy swells or "northers" sweep in from the sea and cause damage to harbor shipping. Millions of dol- lars are being spent in constructing breakwaters in order to make the harbor safer at all seasons. Places of interest are the naval school on the heights, from which there is an excellent view over the harbor ; private residences, many of which overhang the lower city; Government Palace; the water front, which offers opportunities for those interested in the movement of commerce ; new naval docks. A day may be profitably spent in wandering or motoring about Vina del Mar visiting the casinos, clubs, bathing beaches, hotels, or viewing -the residences of people of wealth and refinement. The profusion of flowers is another attraction of this resort which w r ill be doubly pleasing if the visitor arrives in the summer season (our winter). There are usually guests from various parts of Chile, from Argentina, Bolivia, and other countries. Chilean life is to be seen at its best. From Valparaiso to Panama the traveler has a voyage of 3,200 miles (time, 12 days for fast vessels making few stops), and for more than half the distance the ship sails with the northward-flowing Hum- boldt current, which bathes the whole Chilean and many miles of the Peruvian coast. Along this vast coast line stretches one of the 45 VIEWS IN THE CHILEAN NITRATE REGION. Upper: Explosion in the nitrate bed a few feet below the surface throws the caliche or crude product in a form easily handled by laborers. Lower: The caliche after workmen have piled it up ready to be placed on small cars which transport it to the "oficina" or plant. NITRATE OF SODA, CHILE. Nitrate of soda is a necessary ingredient in the production of high explosives and is the most valuable of all fertilizers. Top picture: Typical nitrate pamoa. Province of Antofagasta. Center picture: Crystallizing the nitrate. Lower picture: The nitrate in bulk delivered at the coast to be bagged and shipped abroad. world's mineral wonderlands. Hundreds of miles are bare and brown; nothing grows and nothing lives, save where man here and there has established settlements and towns, whose inhabitants are maintained by the importation of food and drink. In supplying Antofagasta, for instance, with water for domestic purposes, a pipe line nearly 200 miles long is in use. In normal times there are five or more lines of steamers 1 which transport the traveler northward, and on at least two of these lines the tickets are interchangeable. We may go part way by one com- pany's vessels and then transfer to the other line. This service permits of approximately weekly sailings. These lines are Cia. Sud Americana de Vapores and the Pacific Steam Navigation Co., the former a Chilean and the latter an English company. From Peru- vian ports to Panama there is the Peruvian Line, and a Japanese com- pany is now sailing its fine passenger ships between Valparaiso. Panama, San Francisco, and the Orient. The Japanese vessels are among the largest passenger steamers now in service along the west coast. Most travelers prefer to break the long voyage by a visit to Bolivia. Suppose, then, we leave the ship at Antofagasta. This city of 20,000 people has completely changed its life and appearance within the last few years. Street paving, sidewalks, new buildings, paint, motor cars, and motor busses have wrought marvelous improvements. About twice a week there is a through train to La Paz, the capital of Bolivia. The distance is 711 miles; time, 45 hours; the gauge of the road is 2^ feet ; and the highest elevation along the line is approx- imately 12,500 feet above the sea. The route lies across the nitrate region of Chile and through the mineral belt of Bolivia. Sleeping and day coaches are provided. Meals are served in a dining car, and they are a credit to the English company operating the road. Some people find the journey monotonous ; others consider it inter- esting and delight in watching the sights along the way, such as nitrate operations, salt lakes, native villages, droves of llamas and alpacas, primitive peoples, and wonderful views. A short distance beyond Calama the train passes over a bridge spanning the River Loa. The former is 336 feet above the rushing waters, while the altitude is over 10,000 feet above sea level. Lake Poopo, which receives the waters 1 American steamers are now operating between New York and Valparaiso, their route being through the Panama Canal. Other American passenger vessels are sailing from San Francisco to Panama and ports further south. New Orleans is also planning direct steam- ship service to South America. 48 of Lake Titicaca, and has practically no visible outlet, is one of the interesting sights near the road. At Oruro, 150 miles from La Paz, all passengers must change to the broader-gauge railway, which was built by United States cap- italists. The business man may stop over at Oruro and possibly visit Cochabamba in Bolivia's rich agricultural region; but the tourist, in his usual hurry, passes on to La Paz. The first sight of the Bolivian metropolis from the Alto is inde- scribably grand and picturesque. A modern electric road is also avail- able for the trip down the mountain side into the city. The winding ride of a few miles presents at every turn new and attractive views. One wonders why the city was started so deep down in a gigantic valley. This is explained by the fact that early settlers found specks of gold in the streams flowing down from the mountains, and the set- tlement has grown to a populous city. La Paz has more than 80,000 people. Many of its streets are steep, but modern electric cars wind in and out, while automobiles arc growing in number and are especially serviceable in the newer and more modernly paved sections of the city and its suburbs. La Paz possesses many ancient and numerous imposing buildings ; among the latter are the new capitol building, the municipal theater, and the private residences on the Alameda. Persons interested in antiquities will find a wealth of material in Bolivia, and a visit to the National Museum in La Paz should not be neglected. The city's markets are also interesting, especially on Sundays, and to those familiar with the market places of Cairo, Darjeeling, etc., which always have their complement of tourists, the life, customs, and colorings seen at La Paz form striking comparisons. A coach or motor-car trip to Obrajes. about six miles distant, is well worth making. The average traveler, in his hasty visit, does not see Bolivia in detail — a land which the gifted naturalist, Raimundi, described as "a table of silver supported by columns of gold," so abundantly has nature deposited her minerals in this part of the world. May to December is usually regarded as the best season for the stranger to visit Bolivia. Leaving La Paz, one will make the best use of his time by passing out via Lake Titicaca to Mollendo, on the Pacific. Distance from La Paz is 520 miles. He could go directly to Arica, 287 miles, but in choosing the shorter route would miss the ruins of Tiahuanacu as well as the experience of a steamer voyage on the highest large body of water in the world, Lake Titicaca. Fifty miles from La Paz. en route to the lake, the railway train passes through a section of 51 ; %■>■ l^'jf;^ *;>,:<>■.* v. A GLIMPSE OF THE RUINS OF TIAHUANACU. Scientists believe this city may have existed 3,000 years ago. To-day for a distance of 10 miles there are portions of buildings or streets fairly well preserved, far better than the above picture indicates. Tiahuanacu. The train usually stops and one may secure glimpses of vast ruins on either side of the road. If longer time is desired special arrangement should be made with the railway officials before leaving La Paz. Ten miles farther northward we find ourselves on the shore of Lake Titicaca, famous in legend, history, and story. The lake and the surrounding region is strikingly picturesque. Bolivia's towering peak, Sorata, dominates the landscape with its mantle of snow ; lower peaks and small ranges add to the charming scene ; cloud effects are striking and the apparent nearness to the sky is especially pronounced. Altitude is about 12,500 feet. Our course lies diagonally across the lake 125 miles to Puno in Peru. If an early start is made (boats usually leave a few hours before dark) the traveler may be rewarded by glimpses of the islands of the Sun and of the Moon whence came, according to tradition, the founders of the Inca race. "Necessity is the mother of invention." and nowhere do we find the statement more literally exemplified than in the balsas made of coarse grass which the natives of the region sail on the lake. No wood being available within many miles of Titicaca, the native resorted to the grass balsa which well serves his purpose. Nearing the Peruvian shore, the stranger should be on deck early in the morning to enjoy the picturesque surroundings and also to see the "narrows" through which the little steamer passes shortly before arriving at Puno. Meals on the Titicaca steamers are usually quite satisfactory, although practically everything must be brought thither from Bolivian or Peruvian cities many miles distant. An hour or two is the usual length of time required in landing, passing Peruvian customs and transferring to the railway at Puno. Trains now meet the boats on the pier and receive passengers and baggage. A short stop at Puno depot affords the traveler time to walk about the few streets of the place ; the railway follows the shore of the lake to Juliaca, about 10 miles distant. Here the railroad branches ; one line leading to Cuzco, 237 miles, and the other to the coast at Mollendo, 324 miles. The time to either place is slightly less than two days ; there are no night trains. At present there are two trains a week passing Juliaca for Cuzco. If there should be a sufficient number of persons traveling together, say twelve or more, arrangements might be made by communicating with the railway superintendent at Arequipa for a special train and quicker service. If one must wait connections at Juliaca there are two small and primitive hotels. Leaving this junction at about 10 53 1 /u t-0 |f? . ■■■£ J ] IT * Br .><-> u. -0 Ctf jj-5 — — ^ ii z ^■St ■w O „ U QJ }~ ■° S2 uSO (-1 gO cu Q/ S-=~ Ph nt-r w 01 == c 5 .2 _ -w J2 -.>> o) nj rt^r.Si C O 4-> _, l-i to tn O O rt O ft 5 — bt rt Xj v, •a Si fl , S D m S 5 ■^ 5) ■" 2 C C, oj ™ 16 s g ™ cS c2 ~ 3 O ■^ o S JS « o the ship is near enough for a good bird's-eye view oi the towns nnd settlements. The first island passed is St. Lucia; an hour or two later the ship passes Martinique in full view of the remains of St. Pierre, the town destroyed by the volcano, Mount Pelee, some years ago; the next island is Dominica, with its quaint little capital, Roseau; Guade- loupe, St. Kitts and other islands are passed in turn. In order to stop over at the various islands the traveler avails himself of the service maintained by the Royal Mail Steam Packet Co., which has regular sailings of small steamers from Bridgetown. The Guianas may also be reached by the same service. As to steamship fares covering so many ports and short runs, it may be said that the rate of $7 per day, including meals and stateroom berth, is a fair estimate of travel expenses on the smaller vessels of the intercolonial service above mentioned. We have now made the entire circuit of the South American Con- tinent, a distance of 16,500 miles ; if we include the side trips into Paraguay, Bolivia, and Colombia, together with the many miles covered by automobiles and carriages, and even the mule team, the approximate distance of our tour has been more than 20,000 miles. We have looked upon some of the wildest scenes that nature presents in any region of the world; we have enjoyed operas in theaters not equaled in beauty or lavish appointments in any North American city ; all in all, our journey has been varied in the extreme and over a course which in future years will doubtless draw a constantly increasing number of travelers and tourists. SECTION OF THE HARBOR AT BRIDGETOWN, BARBADOS 79 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 015 812 738 6 THE PAN AMERICAN UNION is the inter- national organization and office maintained in Washington, D. C, by the twenty-one Amer- ican republics, as follows: Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Cuba, Dominican Re- public, Ecuador, Guatemala, Haiti, Honduras, Mex- ico, Nicaragua, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Salvador, United States, Uruguay, and Venezuela. It is de- voted to the development of commerce, friendly intercourse, good understanding and the preserva- tion of peace among these countries. It is sup- ported by quotas contributed by each country, based upon their population. Its affairs are ad- ministered by a Director General and Assistant Director, elected by and responsible to a Govern- ing Board, which is composed of the Secretary of State of the United States and the diplomatic representatives in Washington of the other Amer- ican governments. These two executive officers are assisted by a staff of international experts, stat- isticians, commercial specialists, editors, translators, compilers, librarians, clerks, and stenographers. The Union publishes a Monthly Bulletin in English, Spanish and Portuguese, which is a careful record of Pan American progress. It also publishes numerous special reports and pamphlets on various Pan Amer- ican subjects of practical information. Its library, the Columbus Memorial Library, contains 40,000 vol- umes, 25,000 photographs, 160,000 index cards, and a large collection of maps. The Union is housed in a beautiful building erected through the munificence of Andrew Carnegie and the contributions of the Amer- ican Republics.