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MARY AND I 
 
 EUROPE 
 
 Published By 
 
 HENDRICK HUDSON CHAPTER, 
 
 DAUGHTERS OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION, 
 
 HUDSON, N. Y. 
 
 For the Benefit of 
 Thr Chapter Building Fund. 
 

Mary and I Go to Europe. 
 
 AN UNBIASED ACCOUNT 
 [E. &^ O. E. ) 
 
 OF 
 
 A LITTLE JOURNEY IN THE WORLD 
 
 DURING THE MONTHS 
 
 OF 
 
 JUNE, JULY AND AUGUST, 
 1896. 
 
 
 T ' 
 
 / BY 
 
 A. FILLER, Doctor 
 
 
 
 Published By 
 
 HENDRICK HUDSON CHAPTER, DAUGHTERS OF THE 
 
 AMERICAN REVOLUTION, 
 
 HUDSON, N. Y., 
 
 For the Benefit of the Chapter Building Fund. 
 
1683: 
 
 THE LIBRA I^Y 
 
 or congress! 
 
 WASHINGTON li 
 
 
 
 
 H^O COPIES HEC:: 
 
 V \ ^ 
 
MARY AND I GO TO EUROPE. 
 
 Truth, naked, unblushing truth, the first virtue of more 
 serious history, must be the sole recommendation of this per- 
 sonal history. — Gibbon, Autobiography. 
 
 Travellers never did lie, though fools at home condemn 
 them. — Shakespeare. 
 
WHY THIS BOOK IS PUBLISHED. 
 
 To Hendrick Hudson Chapter, Daughters of the American 
 Revolution, of Hudson, N. Y., the world is indebted for the 
 publication of this volume. Later it may blame it. Had it not 
 been for this Society, other eyes than those of intimate friends 
 would never have read its pages. To aid the laudable causes 
 in which the members are engaged, I, Dr. Filler, have consent- 
 ed to the printing and sale of the work, the proceeds to be add- 
 ed to the funds of the Chapter, and used as may be deemed best 
 for furthering its objects. The book, as will easily be seen, 
 makes no pretension to literary merit, unless in those portions 
 quoted from other writers. Its inaccuracies are due to Mary. 
 Much more could have been written concerning what we saw 
 and enjoyed, but it would have stopped the sale of other books, 
 discouraged rising authors, and checked tours to foreign lands. 
 This would have been wrong. The mixture was compounded 
 during office hours, as moments could be stolen from a busy 
 profession, or on Sundays when I should have been at Church. 
 The original volume was struck off on a type-writing machine, 
 and when the manuscript was handed to the printer he was 
 told to "follow copy." This in part may account for many of 
 its shortcomings, its solecisms, and the general mixed up con- 
 dition of things. What it lacks, and how much better you 
 could have written it, you will know when you have completed 
 the reading. A. P. 
 
TO MARY; 
 
 THE BEST OF WIVES, AS WELL AS THE BEST OF 
 
 COMPANIONS; 
 
 WHETHER OVER LIFE'S STORMY SEA, 
 
 OB 
 
 IN FOREIGN LANDS. 
 
 ALWAYS THE SAFETY-VALVE ON THE BOILER OF 
 MY ENTHUSIASM, 
 
 THIS BOOK 
 
 IS 
 
 DEDICATED, 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The best books I have read had prefaces. This is no rea- 
 son why the present volume should have, but it gives the read- 
 er more for his money. It may also aid in dispelling the de- 
 lusion some of my friends have in mind, namely, that my wife 
 ■went with me. I shall speak of my wife often. I call her the 
 "sunshine of my life," because she makes it hot for me. She 
 is part of the book, really the greater part. So when I use the 
 pronoun "I," it means Mary, except when I am in Paris, or pur- 
 suing my anatomical or physiological studies. It would not be 
 proper for her to be present at those times. 
 
 Mr. Herbert Spencer, in his little book on "Education," 
 (Moral, Intellectual and Physical,) says something like this : 
 "It is a very false idea that benefit arises from cramming his- 
 tory, dates and the like into children's minds. Teach them 
 something that will be of practical value in life. Tell them 
 where their Liver or Eustachian Tubes are situated. They 
 will have more use for the latter knowledge than for the for- 
 mer." Acting on this suggestion, I propose to tell in plain 
 language, not Shakespearian in its style, what we saw. I shall 
 omit all mathematical problems, all histories of war and con- 
 quest, all full descriptions of cathedrals, churches and tem- 
 ples, except so far as may be unavoidable. These have been 
 so often and so much better written up than I can do, who am 
 unaccustomed to making books, that the reader will find it to 
 
his advantage to hunt up any reference I may make to any- 
 thing that attracts his interest, if he deems it worth the while 
 to follow the subject, and thus obtain a clearer idea of the situ- 
 ation than I give. The book is written for the entertainment 
 and amusement of our friends. An unvarnished tale, and sim- 
 ple account of our personal experiences in the first and only 
 vacation during my professional life. Some one has said "Life 
 is only worth living for the Summer Vacation." I have found 
 this true. If you doubt me, go as I did. 
 
 A. FILLER, Doctor. 
 Recovery Hall, 
 Hudson, N.Y., 
 1808. 
 
 P. S. Misspelling is due to the machine. Errors of gram- 
 mar, capitals and punctuation to ignorance. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 PREFACE 7 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Preparations 13 
 
 CHAPTER H. 
 
 At Sea. 22 
 
 CHAPTER HI. 
 
 At Sea 42 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Gibraltar 52 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Genoa 60 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Pisa 70 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Rome 82 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Naples 94 
 
 Pompeii 98 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Florence 103 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Venice 108 
 
 Lido 115 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Milan 118 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Lucerne .............. 125 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Munich 135 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Vienna 145 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Dresden 155 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Berlin 160 
 
 Potsdam 167 
 
 Sans Souci 168 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Frankfort-on-the-Main 172 
 
 Heidelburg 174 
 
 Mayence 176 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 The Rhine 179 
 
 Cologne 182 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Amsterdam 186 
 
 Haarlem igo 
 
 The Hague 192 
 
 Scheveningen 194 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Antwerp jg6 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Brussels 201 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Paris 206 
 
 Versailles 214 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 London 215 
 
 Kew 223 
 
 Hampton Court 223 
 
 Windsor 224 
 
 Eton 224 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Homeward Bound 227 
 
Copyright by 
 
 H. LYLE SMITH, M. D., 
 
 Hudson, N. Y. 
 
 October, 
 
 1898. 
 
MARY AND I GO TO EUROPE. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PREPARATIONS. 
 "It is the unexpected that happens." 
 
 J)T has always been a mystery to me how I, a 
 ^ country doctor, ever decided to go to Europe. 
 I thought like many others, I could not be spared ; 
 that the environment about me and of which I 
 thought I was the axis would cease to revolve ; 
 that the whole of Creation would stop, and I should 
 be missed. I have found out otherwise. No man's 
 feet are so large but another's shoes can fill the 
 impressions made in the sands of life's shore, and 
 often fit better than the originals. 
 
 I had dug along, following my professional 
 calling with more or less of success for many 
 years ; now and then taking a day off, but never 
 a vacation in the true sense of the word. Some- 
 times curing a case, now and then making a 
 mistake in diagnosis, or treatment, or both, filling 
 
up witli tears and regrets to the family v/hat I 
 felt, and they did not know. I grew tired. The 
 everlasting tales of woe became irritations, and 
 while now and then the inonotony was broken 
 by some one paying a long over-due account, 
 while laboring under temporary mental health, 
 this unction did not serve as a substitute for a 
 something I desired, and knew I needed. Like a 
 crisis in a disease the time came. I was taken ill, 
 not severely so, just enough to cause me to re- 
 linquish office hours, though I still continued to 
 visit those of ni}'- patients who had sufficient con- 
 fidence in me to refuse being killed by the hands 
 of other practitioners. As the first batch of mi- 
 crobes left, leaving me under the delusion I was 
 convalescing, another swarm came down like an 
 after-dinner course to give zest to the whole. 
 Then my horse ran away and my son was mar- 
 ried. To an ordinary mortal these "visitations," 
 or mixtures would have appeared sufficient to 
 warrant a rest, a little easement in labor, a little 
 folding of the hands. I deserved something, 
 anyway. For me, however, they were only rip- 
 ples, microscopic splashes on the surface of the 
 sea of my life. The cyclone that wrecked my 
 bark, was the putting into execution by my wife, 
 of a house-cleaning plan. I wish to say my wife 
 is no ordinary woman, which fact is borne out by 
 another, namely that she married me. I have 
 often insisted she was the only one of the two 
 
 14 
 
who was married, I being- simply a guest at the 
 wedding. She cleaned, and had I died during 
 the performance, the funeral would have been 
 held in the yard, as there would have been no 
 room for the corpse in the house. She began 
 with one apartment. This, she said, was all she 
 "intended to do." But, parenthetically, m.y wife 
 is always cleaning. She has no set legal holiday 
 for it, extending over a week, or more, like other 
 housewives, but appears to do it daily, in fact all 
 the time. On this occasion it was done so thor- 
 oughly, every thing when she finished was new, 
 except the land on which the house stood. I was 
 the next older. This insanity settled the business, 
 and I made up my mind I should have to go under 
 the sod, (for which some of my friends said I was 
 not prepared,) leaving her to enjoy my insurance, 
 or get away for the purpose of saving my life. 
 Now it is no easy thing for a man, especially a 
 professional man, to pack up his duds, leave his 
 friends and creditors, shut shop, having no clerks 
 to sell pills in job lots at reduced prices, after he 
 has been moving along in one groove for thirty 
 years. A doctor has a feeling of fear that some 
 other of his clan may get hold of his best paying 
 "chronics" and cure them, thus cutting off a sure 
 and constant revenue. I was afraid of this. On 
 the contrary such a going would be a valid excuse 
 to present bills, in order to find out how much of 
 real love patients have for their family physician. 
 
 15 
 
So the mass of pros and cons were put into the 
 mortar of thought, and ground into the powder 
 of decision. I wanted to go somewhere, most of 
 all to Europe. This I desired for many reasons. 
 Nearly all doctors do. It seems to impress a pa- 
 tient, or a community, if a medical man has put 
 foot into a European hospital he has imbibed some 
 potent influence, not obtainable by any course of 
 study, or bedside experience in this country, 
 which he can exert at will for the benefit of the 
 sick. It sounds well to have "been abroad." 
 Then, too, so many of my friends, just because 
 they knew I probably never could do it, were 
 constantly telling me of the delights of an ocean 
 voyage, "the perfect rest, nothing like it to bring 
 back exhausted vitality, no night calls, no muddy 
 roads," and all that sort of thing. I, so they said, 
 "needed change." I did. And to "brush up 
 against the great minds of my profession." All 
 this and much more, partaking of the same char- 
 acter, decided me. I thought it better than to 
 take a trip in my own country, for did I go to 
 either end of it, as soon as I felt rested I would 
 be sure to return home, and be back at the old 
 job before the desired purpose was accomplished. 
 Another reason, I wanted variety. There is a 
 great difference between rest and repose. One 
 may be merely a change of activities, while the 
 other may be a long drawn exertion. Carlyle, in 
 his Sartor Resartus, goes into the definition of 
 
 i6 
 
the words, and to his vv^ork I refer you for a more 
 lucid explanation of the subject. Travel within 
 my own country meant the same language, the 
 same laws. It would have presented the same 
 orders of architecture, the same customs of the 
 peoples, and though probably I should have been 
 "in cog." to the great mass of my brethren, the 
 handle of "doctor" might now and then have 
 slipped out, and I been called to treat, of course 
 gratuitously, some one who would "remit later on 
 arrival home." My line of battle being decided, 
 I began to look about for my guns. I found I 
 could raise some funds, but how I could expend 
 them to the best advantage was the question. 
 Tourist Agencies were interviewed, consultations 
 held with those who had been partakers of the 
 joys I anticipated. Great divergence of opinion 
 was found, each opinion seeming to depend upon 
 the size of a presumptive Letter of Credit. In 
 fact, one of my friends, a retired physician to 
 whom I went for suggestions, knowing he would 
 tell me the entire truth by reason of the brother- 
 hood, greeted me with, "how much money have 
 you?" After stating the amount I thought I 
 could borrow, he replied, "you can do it." The 
 first gate to the Garden of Pleasure was opened. 
 Complications now began to arise in my home. 
 My wife, who heretofore had enjoyed unusual 
 health, and who had unselfishly insisted I should 
 go alone, by reason of the expenditure entailed, 
 
 17 
 
began to present symptoms of decline, at least she 
 said she felt them. To me, as a physician, there 
 were no apparent evidences of physical degener- 
 ation. At first I thought the house cleaning had 
 been too much for her, but later surmised she 
 would miss me, that a sort of "Oikeiomania" was 
 setting in. A talk with other married men led 
 me to believe this was not an uncommon state 
 V\^ith wives, when husbands threatened to go 
 abroad alone. I reasoned she was beginning to 
 mistrust, or distrust me, and from association 
 with her friends had imbibed largely of "why do 
 you not go too ?" Her collapse was stayed by 
 saying, "My dear, a trip to Europe with you not 
 in it, would be a rose without a thorn, or a thorn 
 without a rose," (I have forgotten which) "you 
 too shall go." The reader will find, before he 
 reaches the end of this book, that I went with 
 her. Trouble started in at once. As I slowly 
 contracted the circle of my practice, my wife ex- 
 panded in the direction of her supposed needs. 
 From bonnets to shoes, every article that could 
 or might be required in a three months' visit was 
 priced and samples obtained. Of course, accord- 
 ing to her idea, nothing could be bought in 
 Europe. At least, my wife endeavored to fix in 
 my mind what she believed to be a fact. My 
 own wardrobe was simplicity itself, including 
 celluloid collars. They, celluloid collars, pay, 
 not only in money, but in comfort. If ever you 
 
g-o, don't forget to take half a dozen. I did not, 
 my wife did. I'll tell you how this happened. A 
 married daughter living in New York, had been 
 presented by an admiring friend with a pair of 
 embroidered pillow cases. My wife's economy 
 led her to hold the articles in stock until a con- 
 venient season when she should go to the city 
 taking them with her, thus saving freight, or ex- 
 pressage. This was her opportunity. So the 
 cases were carefully packed in our single trunk 
 to be delivered to the rightful owner on reaching 
 the great city. They were eventually. Only this 
 happened between. My celluloid collars were 
 left at home, while the cases traveled all over 
 Europe in their place. I used the cases as a sub- 
 stitute for a remembrance of the other side, and 
 my daughter still admires the handiwork of 
 Parisian needlewomen. I have learned it is a 
 wise act to go through your trunk after your wife 
 has said she has packed it, especially when going 
 abroad. Another thing I would suggest : either 
 buy, or invent a trunk that will lock and unlock 
 itself, merely by kicking or swearing at it. In 
 our journey I opened that small piece of baggage 
 of ours over a million of times, perhaps more, but 
 I'm safe on a million. If you have put down, or 
 mislaid anything, or suppose you have lost it, 
 from a hair pin to a relic, your wife will say it is 
 in the trunk and order you to look for it. You 
 know it is not there, but you'll be fool enough to 
 
 19 
 
do it, or afraid to disobey. Ninety and nine 
 times out of a hundred it will not be in it, as you 
 knew. I've had an experience with that trunk 
 which, if applied to my profession, would make 
 me a professor in a medical college. The next 
 time I go, I shall take a hand bag and my 
 character, nothing else. 
 
 The day of departure, the eventful day at last 
 arrived. Being in length of service, the oldest 
 practitioner in my little city, the good-byes, par- 
 took somewhat of a public character. The press 
 had mentioned our intended going as an item of 
 news and interest. The local military company 
 turned out, saluted me and wished me bon-voyage 
 in true soldierly style. Little gifts came to us 
 from loving hearts, torpedoes were placed upon 
 the railroad track to boom us on as we left the 
 station ; so amid a blaze of glory, mingled with 
 kisses from my wife's dearest friends, of which I 
 took as large a portion as I could, we rolled away, 
 leaving my home, nearly three thousand of the 
 inhabitants of which I had ushered into the 
 
 world, and the cemetery, where nearly 
 
 thousands had been helped to a permanent rest- 
 ing place through my efforts. As a last act, I 
 confided my patients to Nature and quack com- 
 pounds, and started for the grand event of my 
 existence. 
 
 It is said "the three great events of human life 
 are birth, marriage, and death." I have been 
 
 20 
 
through two of them, but never enjoyed either 
 so much as the anticipations before me. I got 
 what did not occur in tlie other two. As for tlie 
 last, that remains to be seen, or felt. My pastor 
 thinks the question an open one as yet. tie and 
 I do not agree on certain theological construc- 
 tions. He, in my opinion, has too much faith, 
 that is now. I hope to convert him to my way of 
 looking at facts. 
 
 We arrived in New York two daA^s before the 
 expected sailing of the ship. This was done that 
 my wife might price more samples and job lots 
 of goods, for which she had no earthly need, and 
 that I might look around in order to become 
 acquainted with "ways that were dark." I was 
 not sure but a little experience in this line would 
 work in well on the other side. I bought Baede- 
 kers, a letter of credit, a corkscrew and a lot of 
 other useless things I supposed would come 
 handy. I could have purchased more celluloid 
 collars had I known the contents of that blank 
 trunk. I also took occasion, the day before we 
 sailed, to visit the vessel, look her over and form 
 my opinion of the captain, to whom I had a letter 
 of introduction. A bottle of champagne during 
 the voyage, beats all written communications out 
 of sight. This I learned from the application of 
 both methods of acquaintance. 
 
 21 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 AT SEA. 
 "Merrily we sail along o'er the deep blue sea." 
 
 <^^ATURDAY, the day of separation from our na- 
 ^^ tive land, broke tinadulterate. We could not 
 have picked a riper one for the month of May had 
 we searched the almanac. It is needless to say we 
 awoke early so as to get on board in time. Here 
 began the first of misstatements. We read on our 
 tickets, "passengers are required to be on board 
 one hour before sailing." This is not true. If 
 you are on deck at any time before the boat leaves 
 quarantine you may go, provided your ticket is 
 paid for. 
 
 The usual number of friends came to the pier 
 to say farewell, and kiss my wife. Flowers and 
 oranges there were for her in abundance. For 
 me, telegrams, one of the most interesting of 
 which read, "best wishes for a safe voyage ; if 
 you get short of funds draw on me." Now that 
 had the true spirit, and as this particular one 
 came from the president of the largest and so far 
 safest bank in my town, it was more than grati- 
 
 22 
 
fying-. I did not, however, call on him. He 
 saved his cake and credit nevertheless, by the 
 offer. I shall return the compliment should he 
 ever go, that is, so far as the "wishes" are con- 
 cerned. As to the second clause, I shall think it 
 over. He might want bail. You can never tell 
 about these bank officials, they go suddenly, 
 sometimes. One of my dearest friends, a lady, 
 had the forethought to present me with a diary, 
 to which I daily devoted a few moments and kept 
 a few notes, except when in Paris. No one has 
 time in Paris to keep anything, except his respec- 
 tability. I shall, therefore, take the liberty of 
 quoting from these original pages the history of 
 our outward passage, adding such thoughts and 
 morals as come to mind, or promise to be of ser- 
 vice to others when in a similar situation. 
 
 Our ship, (every one who goes to sea uses the 
 possessive case) the "Werra," Capt. Pohle, one of 
 the North German Lloyds great fleet, was bound 
 for Genoa, with no stops between, so far as adver- 
 tised, except at Gibraltar. She was the best boat 
 in which I had ever crossed the Atlantic. In my 
 travels I have met many who have sailed by 
 other lines, and have yet to find one who does 
 not speak in the highest terms of the comfort, 
 cuisine and seamanship offered by this company 
 to sea-going people. This is not an advertisement 
 for the N. G. L's, nor do I expect a rebate when I 
 go with them again, as I certainly hope to do. 
 
 22> 
 
We got away from the pier, at last, by the aid of 
 two tugs, much sobbing and. weeping, the band 
 playing, colors flying and the usual eclat that ad- 
 heres to such an event. I suppose it takes place 
 regularly twice a week the year round, but to us 
 it was novel, never having been in a like predica- 
 ment. Our journey had begun in reality and my 
 wife to have her innings. I think it is Emerson 
 who says, "in a tour abroad there is three per cent, 
 of expectation, two per cent, of realization and five 
 per cent, of recollection." In our case, at least, 
 this needs modification. We expected less than 
 we realized, realized more than we expected, and 
 as the spool of recollection and memory unwinds 
 the thread of the past, we find those days were a 
 glorious prison house, where love was jailor and 
 the bars delight. My wife, soon after leaving 
 port, went below to her room to "regulate things." 
 It was hard to break up an old habit. I remained 
 on deck to see what was going on. We had 
 aboard, as I found later, the usual types, or class 
 of passengers. The man who was making his 
 66th voyage, the fellow who wished he had not 
 come, the man who never lost a meal, he Vv^ho 
 was not hungry, the Kodak fiend, the Captain's 
 terror, and the blushing bride, 
 
 I had been aboard but a few hours when I 
 thought I knew the ship by heart. I had investi- 
 gated every part of it, except the furnace room 
 and the crow's nest, where the look-out is sup- 
 
 24 
 
posed to be stationed, though this I did later. 
 Everything was, as a friend of mine who was 
 once in the drug business invariably stated, "a 
 new novelty," laden with surprises, if not with 
 experiences and information. I chanced early in 
 the day to stray into the smoke room, a place I 
 afterwards found fraught Vv^ith stories, good times 
 and naps. I shall speak of it again. Here I 
 encountered a jolly crowd tasting, or testing the 
 dark product of Munich. As I knew I should be 
 brought later face to face with the same, I 
 deemed it wise to make an experiment under the 
 noses of those I judged were more learned in the 
 matter than I. I am a temperance man at home, 
 but ¥7hen traveling, I fear change of water and 
 do as others do. I do not like to insult a country 
 by declining its chief food products. I or- 
 dered a glass of the beverage, at the same time 
 handing the waiter my last American half dol- 
 lar. He was gone some time, so long, I began to 
 think he had run off with my funds, 3^et felt satis- 
 fied he could go no further than I, so would "see 
 him later." He returned, and I thought I under- 
 stood the cause of the delay. It was not the size 
 of the glass, but the amount of change. At first 
 I thought he had brought up part of the cargo ; 
 then that he had mistaken my half for a gold 
 fifty. At any rate, I drank my bier in haste, lest 
 he should discover his mistake, and went below 
 to find Mary (that is my wife's name.) She was 
 
 25 
 
in the stateroom "regulating." I proceeded to 
 tell her of my stroke in finance and suggested if 
 she had no objections I'd stick to bier, as it would 
 save using our letter of credit and enable me to re- 
 tire from practice on my return. She asked to see 
 what had been given me as change, and as there 
 v/ere no bargain counters, or auctions on board, I 
 felt it safe to trust her with the funds. Mary has 
 a mathematical mind, and after a few moments- 
 spent in looking over the ballast, quietly said, 
 
 "You old (she used a monosyllable) the 
 
 change is correct and you have paid twice as 
 much for the bier as you do at home." I changed 
 the subject, but got even with the steward by 
 spending all the freight he had given me on the 
 same lines as produced it. Before I left, Mary 
 informed me she had discovered a place for swear- 
 ing. She knew it was for that purpose, as it was 
 labeled "Fur Damen." She also said if I felt 
 aggrieved at the bar-tender, it would be a good 
 plan to go into it and settle the matter with him 
 then and there. Mary was not as proficient in 
 the German language as she was later. 
 
 My diary says : 
 
 May 23, Saturday. — "I wish it were possible to 
 frame into words or speech the emotions I feel. 
 That I were a painter for the sake of the sweet 
 picture. I seem to have lost hold of everything. 
 Where am I, I asked myself this morning as we 
 sailed away, the old "Ego" is no longer present. 
 
 26 
 
To think, for me, there are to be days and weeks 
 of rest, pleasure and freedom. That I may sit 
 down and dictate, command and not be command- 
 ed. What a delicious dream it is. To think I may 
 sleep ; lay myself down in the belief I shall rest 
 undisturbed till morning breaks, which I have not 
 done in more than thirty years. Did sweeter 
 flowers ever bloom, were music's strains evermore 
 harmonious than this thought ? Strange are my 
 feelings. I walk about the deck, as it were in the 
 third person, wondering by what enchantment 
 I havebeen disembodied. I am not myself. My 
 wife is at my side, and vv^e seem to be looking 
 backward, down the avenue of the past and feel 
 as if the days of youth have come again. We are 
 like children let loose from school, thinking only 
 of the pleasures held in store in the hours beyond. 
 
 .... As the land recedes further and further 
 from our sight, the air grows cold. We don our 
 wraps and thicker clothing. Luncheon has been 
 served and dinner eaten. No qualms of Mai de 
 Mer. The vessel rolls not unpleasantly, a sort of 
 rocking, as if the sea wished to add to our enjoy, 
 ment. 
 
 My studies in the prevention of sea-sickness, 
 which I pursued with more zest than I did some 
 other types of ailments, seeing my wife and I 
 were to be the patients, had brought forth no satis- 
 factor}^ results. Numerous remedies, I found 
 were suggested by those who had had an actual 
 
 27 
 
experience, and many more, by those teachers 
 who wrote on the subject, reasoning fromi a theory. 
 I decided to let the whole thing alone, trusting to 
 luck, and if anything turned up to go at it on the 
 "expecta,nt" plan, that is, to treat ourselves as 
 symptoms and circumstances arose. I think I did 
 wisely. My advice would be, to those contem- 
 plating a voyage, don't bother about "preven- 
 tives." Eat moderately for a few days before 
 going abroad, especially on the day of sailing, 
 and, if possible, skip a meal or two on the aus- 
 picious date. The temptations of the lunch and 
 dinner tables the first day out are, as a rule, too 
 much for the average man or woman to withstand, 
 and indulgence pays tribute to Neptune the fol- 
 lowing mxorning, if not before. Another thing, 
 go on board well dressed. Do not think any old 
 rag is good enough for the ship. You will be 
 brought into contact with cultivated people, ladies 
 and gentlemen, and the impression you make at 
 first, lasts through the entire voyage. In a day 
 or two you may put on a less fashionable or more 
 worn out costume, and lay the Sunday apparel 
 away till you step on shore again. If you are sea- 
 sick, you won't care about dress. You'll sigh for 
 wings, and harps and crowns. I have heard it 
 said of a Frenchman, that at first he was afraid 
 he would die, and later he feared he could not. 
 I've seen those I thought were in this second 
 stage. 
 
 28 
 
The people one meets aboard ship are of all 
 kinds and shapes. We had them. The Priest 
 going to Rome for a little more Apostolic succes- 
 sion. The Rabbi who was pointed toward Pales- 
 tine to find out the cause for the Talmud. The 
 pretty girl (chaperoned by a near relative) who 
 flirted with all the officers, making their life mis- 
 erable, apparently, by climbing onto the bridge 
 and asking "what kind of weather shall we have 
 to-morrow ?" The man of business, the bevy of 
 young (?) ladies, going in a "conducted" party, 
 eight-tenths of whom were maidens, one-tenth 
 married, and the balance eligible. 
 
 Among such a crowd as this, it was not reason- 
 able to expect I should pass myself off as a mar- 
 ried man. So as intimacies grew thicker and 
 more numerous, I introduced my better half as 
 my mother, leading the unsophisticated to believe 
 that she (my wife) was a widow, and I her only 
 son. This gave me a freedom unattainable by 
 other means. To be sure, my beard was sprinkled 
 with grey, a hair or two here and there, (I shaved 
 it off when I reached Paris,) but this represented 
 experience, not age, at least in my case. 
 
 To some the hours drag wearily on board ship, 
 and they wish they were ashore. This is "because 
 they have no resources within themselves," as my 
 wife says. I find she is correct when they are 
 sea-sick. The ''resources" are all overboard. 
 Most of the daylight and a large part of the night 
 
 29 
 
is spent in eating. You have coffee and rolls in 
 your stateroom before you are up, then breakfast. 
 A little later, more refreshments. Before lunch- 
 eon something to eat, then you lunch. In the 
 afternoon beef, chicken, or clam broth, with 
 sandwiches and other truck. Then dinner. This 
 is the "She Dove" of the day. You come to the 
 table, that is, if you are able, arrayed in the best 
 you have, and begin with soup and end with 
 toothpicks. A real table d'hote well cooked, 
 well served, a menu card at your hand, a waiter 
 at your back, and an orchestra at the foot of the 
 companion way. What do you want more ? You 
 eat about two hours and then go into the smoke- 
 room to get something to satisfy your hunger. 
 Here you indulge in sandwiches and a bottle of 
 something, or a glass of cordial. During all this 
 performance of the day, you are supposed to pat- 
 ronize the waiter in the smoke-room, and become 
 acquainted with the liquid supplies of the ship. 
 A man, if he is any kind of a stevedore, can un- 
 load about twenty schooners between sunrise and 
 bedtime. After my first experience I bought a 
 bier-card, a little machine filled with num^bers, one 
 of which the waiter punches out every time you 
 order a prophylactic, I found it less awkward 
 than waiting for change, and I got my medicine 
 sooner. To be sure, it uses itself up rapidly, but 
 what are you on a vacation for ? If you go with 
 the idea you can save money, it would be better 
 
 30 
 
for you to remain at home. When one is not 
 eating, or punching out holes in the bier-card, 
 "Shovel Board" may be played. There is nothing 
 like this game on earth. The nearest resem- 
 blance is Croquet, and that has no similarity 
 whatever to it. One of the crew chalks out on 
 the deck a program, something like this : 
 
 8 I 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 4 9 
 
 2 
 
 with numbers in each space. In this instance I 
 may have them properly placed, probably not. I 
 don't think it makes a great deal of difference 
 how they are lodged, so long as they are all in the 
 scheme. The imbeciles who attempt to play at 
 it, stand off fifteen or twenty feet, and with a 
 long stick, like a billiard mace, broad at the dis- 
 tal end and covered with leather, so as not to 
 scratch the deck, strive to shove a wooden disk, 
 eight inches in diameter by an inch thick onto 
 one of the numbered spots in the figure. Sides 
 are arranged, and the partners who get the 
 greatest number of tricks in a certain number of 
 shoves win the pot. I did not play it often. 
 
 31 
 
Mother did not care to have me exert myself, as I 
 was out for a rest. Then the other side always 
 had all the prettiest girls, and it used up my card 
 too rapidly. You are obliged to cool off so often, 
 you know, and your partners cool with you. I 
 think I came out ahead of the game only once 
 during the voyage of twelve days. I did not play 
 it coming home. 
 
 Then there are rings made of rope, which you 
 insanely attempt to pitch over the end of a stick. 
 This delights some more than others. It made 
 one youngster happy, v/lio was aboard in care of 
 a nurse. I never saw the mother as I remember. 
 The kid tried to pitch the hempen circles ashore 
 by throwing them into the sea. He did me a kind- 
 ness v/ithout knowing it. Some read, or strive to 
 make you believe they are reading. When we 
 started, we intended to do the same in regard to 
 all the places we expected to visit. We didn't 
 do it, at least I did not. My wife made several 
 trials at it, but was interrupted so often by meal- 
 time she gave it up in the end. I was too busy 
 eating and fooling with that bier-card to waste 
 time on literature. The deck is a great place to 
 snooze. Hand your card to the waiter, take with- 
 out question what he brings you, (you are safe,) 
 wrap yourself up in your rug, lie down in your 
 chair just out of the sun's rays, shut your eyes, 
 forget your creditors and go to sleep. When you 
 wake up, it will be time to eat, or to send down 
 
 32 
 
your card. Under this treatment mother lost 
 twelve, and I gained twenty pounds of solid adi- 
 pose before we reached Gibraltar. This speaks 
 well for the ozone in the air, and the absence of 
 microbes in the bier. Mother says "microbes 
 know better than to get into bier." She is preju- 
 diced, and sticks to Rhine wine and champagne. 
 There are microbes in the last mentioned article 
 I know, for I have felt them in my head the next 
 morning. 
 
 So the day is vv^hiled away. You keep count of 
 the bells and wonder what is the trouble with 
 your watch. As you are not always sure whether 
 it is eight o'clock in the morning, or four in the 
 afternoon, you decide to have it cleaned at the 
 first opportunity. Or you listen to the bugle-boy 
 making alleged music. They never call you to 
 meals aboard a steamship, or ring a bell, they 
 blow you there. Now and then the instrument 
 slips a cog, but if you have no ear for music, or do 
 not know the tune, you will think it is all right. 
 The bugle-boy always begins what he regards as 
 a concert, half an hour before the meal is served. 
 This is to allow you to dress, or work your card. 
 
 Now and then the outline of a vessel is sighted, 
 far off on the border of where sky and water 
 meet. Everyone wastes time in trying to read 
 her name, or guess the line to which she belongs. 
 It is usually a failure. They try to measure the 
 length of the smoke seen issuing from the stacks. 
 
 33 
 
This meets with the same success. Flying fish 
 and Mother Gary's chickens add to the interesting 
 data of the day. Porpoises skip and jump about 
 the ship, making the mind wonder what sort of 
 apparatus they have inside that enables them 
 to keep pace with the boat. A whale is seen 
 spouting two or three ship's lengths ahead, or at 
 the side, and everybody rushes to the rail to catch 
 a glimpse. They are scarce on land. At night, 
 the phosphorescence attracts the attention. After 
 reading "The Ancient Mariner," I was somewhat 
 disappointed in the display. Some look at the 
 moon and romance to the pretty girl at their side, 
 that is, if the party of the first part happens to be 
 unmarried, as I was for the time. 
 
 A niirht at sea, with the moon shining at its 
 full, the firmament sparkling with its myriads of 
 stars, beats all the living pictures I have ever 
 seen. One falls into a meditative mood. You 
 look out into this great universe, of which the 
 earth is so small a speck that, as some astronomer 
 says, "were the strongest telescope known planted 
 upon one of the nearest planets, and the whole 
 expanse of the heavens searched, this earth of 
 ours might easily escape notice, so small it is." 
 Then as you give reins to thought, contemplating 
 the greatness of it all, then coming back to earth, 
 great even in its comparative smallness, then to 
 the mighty ocean on which you are sailing, then 
 to the ship, a dot in the immensity of waters, last 
 
 34 
 
to yourself, an atom in the huge vessel, you ask 
 yourself, "what am I ?" How small, indeed, you 
 are, and yet you kick up a row if anything goes 
 wrong. Do this gazing and meditating for a 
 week, and you'll think less of yourself and more 
 of the world at large. You'll begin to realize 
 that you were made for this earth, rather than the 
 world for you. I know no better treatment to 
 take the conceit out of a man who thinks mun- 
 dane affairs unable to get along without him. It 
 took it out of me. 
 
 Often before the hour of retiring, the captain 
 of the ship on our outward voyage converted the 
 upper decks into a ball-room, by festooning the 
 sides with flags of all nations, electric lights and 
 other adornments. Those older than ourselves 
 gave an exhibition of what the "two-step" should 
 be. In this way the days rolled by, days all too 
 short. We imagined when we started, two weeks 
 at sea would be a long time. We were surprised 
 the hours passed so quickly. We even found we 
 had left quite a number of things undone when 
 we got ashore, but trusted the Deck Steward 
 would look after the remains. By the by, this 
 fellow is the hardest worked man on the ship ex- 
 cept the passenger who is sea-sick. His duties 
 involve everything but steering and shoveling 
 coal. They would put him at these on a pinch. 
 It shall be my habit to give him five dollars 
 every time I go over. This trip I thought four 
 
 35 
 
marks sufficient. What does he do ? Ask what 
 he is called upon not to do. Do you wish a chair, 
 do you wish it changed to another spot, do you 
 wish to buy, sell, find anything, he is the man to 
 do it. Nothing is out of his province and he 
 does it all willingly, asking no other favor at 
 your hands, than love, sweet looks, and a mark. 
 
 When we went aboard at New York we did not 
 know one of the most important first steps was to 
 secure seats at the table. The one falling to your 
 lot you hold during the passage. We had been 
 told all about it, but there was so much to remem- 
 ber, a little thing like this was easily forgotten. 
 It is the 2d Steward's business to attend to it and 
 we let him. Whether the handle to my name, 
 as it appeared on the passenger list, or the win- 
 ning ways of my wife, caught without her knowl- 
 edge, had any telepathic influence, I know not, 
 anyhow we were placed at the table of the ship's 
 surgeon, my wife in the seat of honor at his right. 
 The captain held audience at the other end of the 
 bar, vis-a-vis to the doctor. I have always been 
 glad he forgot that letter of introduction, else we 
 might have been seated at his end, and been pre- 
 vented from running that portion of the craft at 
 which we were ; in fact we ran the entire room 
 after a few days. Sitting opposite, so as to face 
 us, were two gentlemen returning to Bremen via 
 Genoa, after a long business residence in Samoa. 
 A short acquaintance with the younger convinced 
 
 36 
 
my wife he was a lunatic, and she has held this 
 opinion ever since. My diagnosis was "mere 
 boyishness." The shackles of constraint had been 
 thrown off and he was in for a good time and he 
 had it. We helped him. At each meal we made 
 new acquaintances, my wife giving her attention 
 to those at the opposite side of our table, while I 
 bestowed my favors on the ladies at m^y left. 
 
 At the first meal, luncheon, I discovered near 
 my plate a bottle of Claret wine. My wife has 
 always insisted it was not near. I accepted the 
 situation and what was apparently an invitation, 
 supposing it a gift from the captain, as he had my 
 letter of introduction, or was one of the customs 
 of the ship. In spite of my wife's "don't do it, 
 you had better be careful, it may not be intended 
 for you," I took the chances. I am a veteran of 
 the late war and married, so by reason of past 
 experiences could afford to run some risks. I 
 drank it. Later I found I had robbed the doctor. 
 He did not happen to be at this repast, probably 
 being detained in his ofhce, or in the steerage, 
 where countless Italian immigrants were stowed, 
 or was out in the country making calls. I squared 
 the account with him in a day or two by putting 
 up the wine, and I rather think he would enjoy 
 being waylaid again. It was like a lover's quarrel, 
 so nice to make up. After a few sit-downs with 
 us at meals, he was never absent. I sometimes 
 thought he neglected his patients to be with us. 
 
 37 
 
Our end of the boat kept up with, the procession, 
 and left enough fun behind to run the Damfer 
 back to New York. In eating, I am not fond of 
 too much style, I rather favor a free and easy 
 method. 
 
 The berths on a first-class steamship are ar- 
 ranged for economy, not on the score of comfort, 
 or for real use. It is all very well to live in a two- 
 story flat, but I object to going under the roof to 
 sleep at night. Our room was one of the best on 
 the plan, chosen for us by our son-in-law, who had 
 sailed all over the world and knew a good room 
 when he saw it. It was well forv/ard on the port 
 side and furnished with electric lights, hot and 
 cold water, bells, a lounge and a window looking 
 out to the other end of the world. As compared 
 to the size of my wife it was small, so I always 
 allowed her to retire first. This gave me more 
 time in the smoke-room to eat, and more latitude 
 and longitude when I came to disrobe. As she 
 was usually first in bed, she always took the lower 
 shelf, compelling me to mount by ladder to the 
 realms above. When the storm set in, as it did 
 the second day out, I threw away the steps, and 
 climbed in on a sort of go as you please plan. It 
 was easier, and I got to bed sooner. These roosts 
 are anything but certain. You are up, or out, 
 sometimes before you are called, though the rule 
 is, not to move till the bugle-boy toots his horn in 
 the morning about six bells. A bath, followed by 
 
 38 
 
a good breakfast, starts the day in proper shape. 
 Sunday at sea passes like any other day. The 
 same every thing happens. On some lines they 
 hold a religious service in the morning for those 
 who have no future prospects, and take up a col- 
 lection. We held none going out, as we were 
 too busy looking for next week. One congrega- 
 tion of the passengers I admire. That is the 
 concert given for the benefit of the widows and 
 orphans of sailors. While we held no concert, 
 here and there about the lower deck were boxes 
 marked as receptacles for funds for this laudable 
 object, I never saw one entirely empty, and he 
 is a mighty mean fellow who will not drop a 
 nickel into the slot for this worthy charity. As 
 to price, these concerts are highly artistic. For 
 the performance no charge is made, it is the pro- 
 gram you pay for. The Chief Steward is, as a 
 rule, the whole show, and as his songs and jokes 
 are always new to those who have not heard 
 them, he is at times entertaining. Now and then 
 a "Star" happens to be on board, and after much 
 solicitation he, or she "consents" to do an act, or 
 favor the crowd with a "selection." They get 
 their names conspicuously printed on the program 
 and free through this act of self-denial. 
 
 We were never sick in the least degree. Many 
 times and oft we counseled over the matter, think- 
 ing it was the proper thing to do, and that the 
 hour had arrived. Only the crew, and ourselves, 
 
 39 
 
kept well. This looked unfashionable and below 
 the average culture of our fellows. Even in the 
 days of the storm we held our own in every sense. 
 The English channel did not disturb us, so we 
 think we have had our baptism, and that it took. 
 Before we reached Genoa, I went dov/n into the 
 engine and furnace rooms, the great lungs and 
 heart of the vessel. What a wonderful place it 
 was, and hot. The engineer told me some im- 
 mense tales about the amount of coal consumed 
 on a voyage, the waste of water, and the cost of 
 his department, all of which I am inclined to be- 
 lieve. I cannot contradict him, as I know nothing 
 about running a steamship, I cannot even run my 
 own family. When we reached Genoa, the vessel 
 stood five feet more out of water than when we 
 left the home port. This in a ship of over six 
 thousand tons showed how large a part of the load 
 had been consumed in pushing us over. Perhaps 
 some of the buoyancy was due to the consump- 
 tion of bier cards. The stokers look like hardy 
 fellows, yet I understand are short-lived. How 
 they manage to stand the intense exertion and 
 heat of the fires is a mystery to me. There is no 
 loafing among them while on duty. They attend 
 strictly to business and shovel I know not how 
 many tons of coal into those white hot throats 
 during the four hours each gang is at its trick. 
 The rapid changes of temperature to which they 
 are subjected must show their effects in some de- 
 
 40 
 
bility of important organs. It is a hard life at 
 best, but I presume they enjoy it, or would take 
 to the practice of medicine. 
 
 My diary ends on the first day as follows : — 
 ". . . . Quite tired to-night, both retire at lo p. m." 
 
 41 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 "Rough winds do shake the darling buds of May." 
 
 My diary continues as follows : 
 
 May 24tli, Sunday morning.— ''■ .... Saturday 
 ended like a dream. We retired in the hope of 
 an enjoyable to-morrow. About two A. M. we 
 were awakened by the sound of the fog-horn, 
 which continued its unearthly noise for an hour. 
 We fell asleep after a while, in spite of a peculiar 
 motion in our beds. On arising in the morning 
 we found a heavy sea, the wind dead ahead and 
 the ship pitching terribly. Breakfast showed a 
 diminution in the number of guests at table from 
 the evening before. We are in the Gulf-stream. 
 The decks are wet and slippery from the spray. 
 The bugle-boy opened the day with "Nearer my 
 God to Thee," and many thought it was so. The 
 vessel rolls so much that it is impossible to keep 
 on the lines while writing in my book. We re- 
 main well, take in all the meals and all that is 
 printed on the menu card. Every circumstance 
 is trying. We brace up to it however and shall 
 try to get through the day." .... 
 
 42 
 
I noticed while on deck the evening previous to 
 the date of the above, the moon presented a rather 
 singular appearance. It was surrounded by a 
 most gorgeous ring and seemed out for a lark, in 
 a word it looked "full." I did not then appreciate 
 the entire meaning of this astronomical objective 
 symptom. Experience has led me to keep my 
 eye on "Luna" when I am at sea, and I think I 
 can now foretell a gale with as much certainty as 
 the Meteorological Bureau. I sometimes call my 
 wife "Luna." I also learned something about the 
 barometer. Our machine hung over the stair- way 
 to the main saloon. It was an innocent looking 
 affair, but attracted more interest and made more 
 trouble than anything on board, for a day or two 
 at least. It was so cased in, it was impossible for 
 any of us to get at the machinery. Had we been 
 able, we would have had fair weather the entire 
 trip. It was a good deal like the thermometer of 
 the old lady, who said, "it would be hotter if the 
 thermometer were longer." 
 
 We took our bearings, (that is the ship's.) to-day 
 at noon. This is done on the "Bridge" by the 
 captain and some other fellows. We found we 
 were at sea and had run 330 nautical miles since 
 twelve o'clock yesterday. A chart, hanging in the 
 companion-way, marks the course we are sup- 
 posed to be following, and after each daily obser- 
 vation a little flag is stuck in at the proper point 
 to show those interested how far the boat has 
 
 43 
 
sailed, and where things are at. It is a frequent 
 diversion in the smoke-room to wager on the num- 
 ber of knots rolled off by the ship daily. I have 
 known men to win sufficient to pay for their bier- 
 cards, staterooms and all other necessary expenses. 
 Then I have encountered those who, by their 
 faces, I judged, v^^ished they had not bet. I never 
 indulge in games of chance, as I have found my 
 practice in its results something of the same sort, 
 uncertain. 
 
 May 25th, Monday. — "The sea still heavy, rain- 
 ing. We pitch and roll more than yesterday, but 
 keep well. We think we should be ill, as it seems 
 the proper thing to do. The captain, Mary and 
 myself only at the breakfast table. It is a bad 
 day. The picture over the desk in my office, (it 
 is one of a steamship on a placid sea) is a snare 
 and a delusion to tempt innocent people out 
 onto this terrible deep. .... The captain says 
 he never met such a wind on this route at this 
 season. We agree. The frames were put on 
 the table to-day." These "frames" are little 
 fences fastened about the space allotted you at 
 table, to prevent the cups, plates and other hard- 
 ware from getting into your neighbor's yard, or 
 into your lap. They do not always fulfill their 
 mission, as the foundations of the house, in time 
 of storm, have a tendency to change places with 
 the roof. If you don't slop over yourself, your 
 viands are apt to. 
 
 44 
 
May 26th, Tuesday. — "Wind has shifted to our 
 quarter .... we roll and roll. Everthing has 
 broken loose in our room, and I am black and 
 blue from the bumps and bruises I get walking 
 about. Why did I leave home ? I want no better 
 
 evidence that a man is a d fool than to know 
 
 he has crossed the Atlantic .... During the night 
 the water broke through the glass covering of the 
 engine-room, flooding it. It also carried away 
 some stanchions and deck-chairs. In the words of 
 Mary's imperfect Italian, we had a 'helophatyme'." 
 
 During this little playspell of the Atlantic, 
 many amusing incidents occurred. This morn- 
 ing I was sitting on the edge of my bunk, Mary 
 directly opposite on the lounge attending to some 
 arrangement of her apparel, when a more than 
 usually large wave, just as if the sea were trying 
 to show us what it could do, struck the side of the 
 ship. With an intensity and vim Mary had not 
 shown toward me for years, she rushed into my 
 arms, knocking me into the back of the berth. I 
 thought I had gone through the side of the ship. 
 Then, with the next roll of the vessel, having done 
 all the damage possible, she was thrown back to 
 the lounge, where she found herself seated as be- 
 fore the performance. It was a most ridiculous 
 affair. This same day I injured my arm so as to 
 cause me much annoyance during our entire trip. 
 In fact it did not recover its natural condition 
 until some months after my return home. I found 
 
 45 
 
out what the sea could do. By some mistake of 
 my wife .... (she always laid the blame on me ; 
 perhaps she is correct,) the port-hole of our room 
 was left insecurely fastened. The result was, 
 while at breakfast the sea burst it open and 
 flooded the apartment. It ruined my wife's 
 traveling dress, made the room steward swear, 
 and spoiled my hat. I straightened out matters 
 in Paris, by buying one of those millinery crea- 
 tions called a woman's bonnet. 
 
 The only advantage I can see in a storm on the 
 ocean, one that makes the boat roll in good style, 
 is, that a fellow may get full, lose all power of 
 muscular co-ordination and then lay his inability 
 to walk to the motion. Your best friend would 
 not know you were off. It affects the language 
 as well as the legs. Another thing : I never be- 
 fore appreciated the power and the weight of water. 
 As we lay in our berths we heard the immense 
 waves fall upon the deck above us, as though 
 a thousand trip-hammers were striking in unison. 
 Then we felt ourselves go down, down, down, 
 under the enormous load, as if we were being 
 pushed to the bottom. Then the struggle for life 
 seemed to begin, the ship endeavoring to reach 
 the surface for one more gasp of air, slowly up, 
 up it came. You hear the water swash and fall 
 from off the decks and you breathe again. So on 
 and on it keeps, till it grows monotonous. Mary 
 paid no attention to it. She slept. 
 
 46 
 
May 27th, Wednesday. — "A very quiet night 
 (comparatively.) Wind and sea gone down. I 
 have my idea of the man who wrote, 'A life on the 
 ocean wave.' .... Band played on deck for the 
 first since leaving port." 
 
 May 28th, Thursday — " .... a beautiful morn- 
 ing. Some wind, the ship continues to roll : all 
 sails set to steady her .... more people at break- 
 fast .... hope to see the Azores to-morrow and 
 reach Genoa a week from to-day " 
 
 The real fun began at this date. 
 
 May 29th, Friday. — "More sea on ; windy, but 
 warm. Have not as yet experienced that 'smooth 
 as glass and mill-pond' state of things. The 
 bugle-boy awakened us with 'Life let us cherish', 
 and we begin to do so .... About 7 o'clock, a. m., 
 caught sight of the Azore islands and at 10:30 
 A. M., passed between the first two Las Flores, the 
 larger, on the starboard, and El Cabo on the port 
 side. They appear fertile and several small col- 
 lections of houses presenting the appearance of 
 villages may be seen at the base of the high cliffs. 
 The remainder of the group was passed by during 
 the night." 
 
 The dinner to-day was an "event." In some 
 mysterious way the doctor, and the gentlemen at 
 our end of the table, thought a birthday for my 
 wife was due. Through a still more mysterious 
 influence, the birthday got hold of the wrong per- 
 son. Anyhow, the presents, illuminations and 
 
 47 
 
friendly greetings were taken in by "the only 
 son." Unknown to my wife or to me, the doctor, 
 the "Lunatic" and the other rascals had inter- 
 viewed the cook, and by gifts, promises, threats, 
 or all combined, had enlisted him in the scheme 
 they proposed to work out. Near the middle of 
 the repast, the electric lights were turned out, and 
 the head waiter, followed by a train of his satel- 
 lites, marched slowly down the aisle, bearing in 
 his hands a large cake on which sixteen colored 
 candles were burning. The cake was a monu- 
 ment to the confectioner's art. Upon the frosting 
 were the words formed from sugar, "sweet six- 
 teen," "many happy returns." Small American 
 and German flags and ensigns garnished it, woven 
 in among silver leaves and golden flowers. Alto- 
 gether it was a thing of beauty .... outside. 
 Then, there was placed at my hand a large basket 
 of flowers made from turnips, potatoes, and other 
 vegetables, also a bouquet of the same materials. 
 When the gifts had been located, the electric 
 lights were turned on, the orchestra played, and I 
 ordered the wine. Congratulations were indulged 
 in, the captain not being forgotten in the 
 bumpers. There was no question as to the odor 
 of the flowers. Nothing remained but to eat the 
 cake. Naturally mother was requested to cut it. 
 There was a good deal of hesitation on her part 
 as she was not sure what the "Lunatic," and the 
 rest of the asylum had in store for her. How- 
 
 48 
 
ever, as courage is one of her virtues, she dared 
 the lion and brought from the interior a somewhat 
 heterogeneous mixture of excelsior, old rope and 
 shavings. Of course the play of words, the toasts 
 and the general good feeling added what I am 
 unable to describe. Every one in the cabin 
 wished he were at our end of the table. 
 
 I was a good deal surprised at the Azores. Not 
 only at them, but at all the islands seen. Whether 
 I did not know, or had forgotten, their general 
 character startled me. I remember reading in 
 my Geography that an island was "a parcel of land 
 surrounded by water." This still holds good in 
 one sense, but it does not tell the entire truth. 
 What astonished me was, they stuck so far out of 
 water. All the islands I had ever seen were flat, 
 here and there a hill, but these oceanic periods 
 were higher than they were broad. I knew vol- 
 canic action had much to do with their formation, 
 yet had no idea they held such high and lofty 
 aspirations. You learn much by getting away 
 from home. 
 
 May 30th, Saturday. — " .... This being Deco- 
 ration Day in the States, celebration was in 
 order .... The tables were ornamented in great 
 shape, and each lady presented with a number of 
 American, German and Bremen flags. The or- 
 chestra played national melodies. At night a 
 grand ball on the promenade deck, dancing being 
 kept up till six bells (11 o'clock)." 
 
 49 
 
May 31st, Stiuday. — ". . . . The band playing in 
 the saloon awoke us .... The barometer has fall- 
 en. That is, the hand has moved back. The box 
 is in the same old spot .... a beautiful day " 
 
 After dinner those who did not know how to 
 read gathered aft, and sang sacred songs, those 
 who did, congregated in the library, or lady's 
 cabin on the upper deck. There were many good 
 voices, and at times it was the least disagreeable 
 of the many noises about. This was kept up till 
 the mental hymn books were exhausted, when 
 most of the artists went to bed. A few congenial 
 spirits met in the smoke-room and proceeded to 
 have opera. One of the gentlemen possessed a 
 most charming voice which had been cultivated 
 under some of the best teachers of Italy. I was 
 born a baritone, at least I think I was, but on this 
 occasion I took the bass. We had about two 
 hours at it, with fair prospects of a longer season, 
 when the whole trip was broken up by my wife 
 sending the room steward to see if I were aboard. 
 I sent back word I was, and intended to stick by 
 the ship till we had had the worth of our tickets. 
 This did not satisfy her. Two additional trips were 
 made by her lackey. In order that I might have 
 peace the next day, I broke up the combination and 
 went below. It was a severe shock and disap- 
 pointment to me, for it was the only real opportu- 
 nity I have ever had of letting a real artist hear 
 the quality of my voice, that is in the line of opera. 
 
 50 
 
June ist, Monday. — "The most lovely day of 
 all. At 12 M. passed by Cape St. Vincent, the 
 western point of Portugal . . . . , with its forts and 
 signal stations .... We are now constantly meet- 
 ing ships and steamers coming from southern 
 ports .... To-morrow, Gibraltar . . . . " 
 
 As there w^as a chance of meeting mail facilities 
 at the Rock, I spent several hours of the day writ- 
 ing letters home. To the children, to "the only 
 woman I ever loved," and others. It seemed 
 strange to stick a stamp on the envelope that did 
 not bear the image of George Washington. 
 Nevertheless it evidently had a right of way, for 
 all my epistles reached their destination. 
 
 Before sailing I purchased a fountain pen 
 under the delusion that the thing would do as the 
 advertisement said. It did more. It squirted the 
 ink over my fingers, onto the paper and ruined 
 the carpet. The thing it would not do, was write. 
 After reasonable attempts to get my invested 
 value out of it, I took up with the belaying pins 
 furnished by the company. When I arrived in 
 London, I gave the alleged pen to a dear friend, 
 telling him how useful it was, and that he would 
 be astonished at its performance. I have no doubt 
 he was. I also told him not to be in a hurry to 
 thank me, or to write with it till I got out of Eng- 
 land, as then it would call me to his mind. I've 
 not heard from him since. 
 
 51 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 "Praise the sea, but keep on land 
 
 'Jl 
 
 .. *HE ship dropped anchor in the harbor before 
 lu Gibraltar last night at 12 p. m. Mary and I 
 were on deck to see the act. The atmosphere 
 was hazy, so as to dim the outline of the structure, 
 but we recognized it as a big thing. Lights were 
 all about the shore and we could hear the sentry 
 call "all's well." Early in the morning (6:30,) 
 when I went above, I found the ship surrounded 
 by bumboats, and the deck taken possession of by 
 vendors, who sold merchandise of the poorest 
 quality at the most exorbitant prices. As the 
 ship's larder needed additions, ample time was 
 given for a trip to shore. Of this I availed my- 
 self. My wife decided not to go, as the means of 
 transportation in her eyes was not sufficiently 
 safe. I paid the price, something like half a dol- 
 lar christian money, and got under way. These 
 tenders seem insignificant affairs after a sail on a 
 big ship, and look as if they would topple over, or 
 go to the bottom on the least provocation. This 
 one was quite as good as any I have since met. 
 
 52 
 
I have never been received any where with more 
 enthusiasm than I was on landing at this spot. 
 In fact, before I landed, not even at the Grand 
 Central Station in New York, where every man 
 asks me to "have a hack." Before the tender 
 reached the wharf, I was seized by the natives, 
 dragged on shore and had it not been for my per- 
 fect knowledge of Spanish profanity, I might not 
 have lived to write this history. I speak Spanish 
 well, if I say it myself, having lived many years 
 among Cubans and acquiring the lingo as does a 
 child, with nothing omitted. They, consequently, 
 took me to be as great a rascal as they were 
 themselves and let me go. What a motley popu- 
 lation it was gathered there at the landing! 
 English, Spanish, Moors, people from all climes 
 and from every where under the sun. I remem- 
 ber, particularly, one fellow, a Moor, a magnificient 
 specimen of a man in his physique. He looked 
 as if he had just stepped out from a laundry, his 
 black legs shining like polished marble, the 
 white sheet about him — that is what it appeared 
 to be, immaculate in its color. One of our party 
 attempted to snap a Kodak at him, but whether it 
 proved a success or not, I never learned. I could 
 see the sneer in his face as if he were saying, 
 "You Christian dog, how dare you ?" 
 
 The wharf was filled with vendors of every 
 conceivable thing on earth. Flowers, strawber- 
 ries, photographs, fans, laces, shawls, heaven only 
 
 53 
 
knows what not, and for which the most exorbi- 
 tant charges were made. I at once bought a 
 photographic album of the rock, and some fans, 
 fearing the supply might give out. Had I been 
 cooler and had the sense to wait until the tender 
 turned its nose toward the ship, I could have 
 bought at one-tenth the price. For a lot of lying, 
 theiving rascals these fellows beat any bandits I 
 ever met. The Venetians are bank cashiers 
 compared to them. We took a carriage, that is a 
 couple of us boys, and visited the principal points 
 of interest. Before you pass over the bridge, 
 which is at the entrance of the town, you are giv- 
 en a little ticket which reads : 
 
 "Waterport. — Permit until first evening gun. 
 William Seed, Chief of Policed 
 
 This lets you in. 
 
 One is struck with the peculiar features of 
 everything. Soldiers marching and walking 
 about ; the narrow streets, some with sidewalks 
 and some without; the donkeys ladened with 
 panniers holding the produce for the markets ; 
 the goats being milked before the doors; the 
 signs above the shops, in a language unintelligible 
 to most travelers ; people walking, or hurrying to 
 and fro, types of every nation on earth. Now 
 you hear English spoken, then Spanish, then 
 French, now some other tongue, known or un- 
 known. It is a veritable Tower of Babel and an 
 unmistakable den of thieves. 
 
 54 
 
I shall not attempt to describe the Rock, You 
 can learn all about it in any geography, and of its 
 vicissitudes in any fairly and unbiased written 
 history. They claim it is three miles in length, 
 three-quarters of a mile in average breadth, and 
 1439 f^^t high above the sea. They lie so here 
 I did not go up to prove it. The aspect of 
 the Rock itself is uninviting, the whole appear- 
 ing devoid of trees and verdure. About the base 
 heliotrope grows in the wildest luxuriance, per- 
 fuming the air and mitigating the other prevail- 
 ing and less enjoyable odors. The most interest- 
 ing objects are, the Great Market, the Moorish 
 Castle the Almeda Gardens, Europa, General 
 Eliott's monument, and the Galleries. Into these 
 latter we were permitted to go, though not to a 
 great extent. No Kodak was allowed, so our 
 government must be content with guesses of its 
 interior strength, rather than with plans taken on 
 the spot. 
 
 I do not consider it any earthly use for the 
 United States to figure on capturing it and taking 
 it over to Hawaii. England claims she owns it 
 and has fastened it down to stay. As I once saw 
 in a newspaper advertisement, "it is as solid as an 
 Insurance Company." Perhaps I have the words 
 twisted, anyhow it is in a good place, and I advise 
 governments to let it alone. We got back to the 
 ship, after the highwaymen and palace-car porters 
 had gone through us to their heart's content, 
 
 55 
 
sailing away at noon. We expect to reach 
 Genoa, Thursday, about 5 P. m. 
 
 My journal continues : 
 
 June 3rd, Wednesday. — "Two weeks from home 
 to-day .... beautiful weather .... the Mediter- 
 ranean as smooth as glass .... Captain's dinner 
 this evening. Dancing on deck after." 
 
 The sail over the Mediterranean was the most 
 enjoyable of our voyage as far as picturesqueness 
 was concerned. At our right we could discern 
 the dim outline of the African coast. Beyond, we 
 passed along the border of the Riviera, Nice, 
 Monte-Carlo, old Roman tov/ers, the Balearic 
 Islands, all an ever-changing landscape. The 
 Mediterranean when behaving itself is a most 
 beautiful piece of water. Its color, reflected from 
 the pure Italian skies, is of the most intense blue, 
 as if indigo had dyed it in every portion. It is 
 said that when aroused, it can give points to the 
 Atlantic. We prefer to leave the question un- 
 settled. 
 
 The Captain's dinner given the evening before 
 reaching the end of the voyage, is supposed to be 
 a gorgeous affair. We saw no marked difference 
 from those of other days. To be sure, there were 
 a few more flags, some flowers and strawberries 
 purchased at Gibraltar, but the "extras" cost the 
 same, and the menu card was no longer, nor more 
 varied. As our crowd was to separate, never to 
 meet again here, or hereafter, so far as we knew, 
 
 56 
 
we ordered a full line of "antitoxine" and drank 
 to each other's health and prosperity. I could do 
 the former unselfishly as I was at the time out of 
 the practice of medicine. The ball followed. As 
 I laid myself down to sleep that night thinking of 
 all that had been in the joyous days of the past 
 two weeks, of what might come to us and to ours 
 in the future, I could not help repeating : 
 
 Oh joyous days, thy memory lingers, 
 Like some sweet dream ye haunt me as we part : 
 
 I'll close thy tomb with holy, tender fingers, 
 Thou'it lie embalmed 'mid spices of the heart. 
 
 We reached Genoa, Thursday, June 4th, at 6 
 o'clock, P. M. 
 
 It was a beautiful sight as we approached "La 
 Superba." The sun shone full upon the city of 
 palaces and reflected back the beams from off the 
 blue waters at its feet. Nearer and nearer we 
 drew. Not like the baseless fabric of a dream 
 was it, but like a silver picture in a frame of gold. 
 We were anxious to get ashore, though we sor- 
 rowed to leave behind those who had grown to be 
 friends. At last the wharf was reached ; the 
 plank thrown out, and the medical ofhcer of the 
 Port stepped aboard. There was a long consul- 
 tation with our doctor. We did not know what 
 it meant. Perhaps there had been sickness in the 
 steerage. Finally the parley came to an end and 
 we were told to land. 
 
 I am addicted to a few small vices, the greatest 
 
 57 
 
of which is an inordinate love for tobacco in the 
 form of smoking. I use it only three times a day. 
 My wife will bear me out in this, only she says 
 I smoke from breakfast till dinner, from dinner 
 till supper and from supper till I go to bed. 
 
 Among my effects purchased for the tour were 
 a pipe and a reasonable supply of the weed. Dur- 
 ing the many conversations held in the smoke- 
 room, I learned tobacco was under the ban of the 
 Italian Goverment, and that I should be obliged to 
 pay duty on what I had in stock as the amount held 
 by me was beyond the lawful allowance. Now 
 as I did not care to be arrested as an outlaw on 
 my first appearance in this land of Saints, I 
 talked the matter over with the first engineer, 
 who told me to throw the stuff overboard and 
 not try "to do" the Customs. I did not know so 
 much as I do now, or I would have kept it. To 
 act on his advice I thought a wicked waste, so 
 asked him to accept it, which he did quite will- 
 ingly. I can now see through his game. 1 
 
 We bade farewell to each fellow-passenger, in- 
 cluding the smoke-room steward, several times. 
 This latter hoped to meet us again. He really 
 evinced more sorrow than some others with whom 
 we had been more intimate. We gave him some 
 marks and our pax. On leaving the ship after an 
 ocean voyage the proper thing to do is to pay 
 everybody something, no matter whether they 
 have earned it or deserve it, or not. If you do 
 
 58 
 
not do it voluntarily they will suggest it. Also 
 tell them what a good time you have had. Don't 
 mind a little lying, they won't know and you 
 won't care. Your room steward and stewardess 
 really deserve a "pourboir," and so does the deck 
 steward. If you have any money left after doing 
 the right thing all around, give it to the captain. 
 No one will be insulted, no one will refuse. It is 
 a habit they have all over Europe, and you may 
 just as well get into practice first as last. I'd take 
 something myself after last year's experience. 
 
 When our luggage had been placed in care of 
 the Custom House officers, we disembarked. We 
 were met at the land end of the gang-plank by an 
 interpreter whom we had engaged by cable. I 
 gave him something as a starter. He knowing 
 the ropes better than we, our trunk and bags were 
 soon gone over, by the help of another remem- 
 brance quietly placed in the hand of the Inspector, 
 and after being stamped were put into a carriage 
 and with our personal remains in attendance 
 taken to the hotel. 
 
 59 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 GENOA. 
 
 "Thy wreck a glory, and thy ruin graced 
 
 With an immaculate charm which cannot be defaced." 
 
 /^ ENOA, once called " The Superb,'' is now a back 
 ^^ number and out of the business. Though 
 still the chief commercial port of Italy, there are 
 many cities in the New World which could give 
 it points as far as "the superb" is concerned. Once 
 when its palaces held dukes and duchesses, when 
 fair women and brave men lived within the now 
 ruined Palazzi, when history was being made, 
 Genoa had a seat way up in front. I do not mean 
 to say it is not of interest now. It is full of story 
 and of remembrance. Take your Baedeker, (God 
 bless him) and read up. Then buy a ticket and go 
 to see it. It will cancel the expenditure. I will 
 tell you how it appeared to us. 
 
 We reached the hotel (Londres) after a ride of 
 about ten minutes. They have no tape-measures 
 in Europe with which to measure distances. You 
 go so long. I suppose when they lay out a rail- 
 road they bargain, or contract according to the 
 time it takes to build it. We registered and went 
 to our rooms. The sensations produced by walk- 
 
 60 
 
ing about were singular ones. My legs felt as if 
 they had rights of their own and wished to exer- 
 cise them. I staggered as I presume men do 
 when intoxicated. I know it was lost motion, 
 lost land motion, lost on the ship and that I had 
 not recovered my terrestrial equilibrium. Mary 
 thought it might be due to the grief expressed, 
 or absorbed, at saying good bye to the boys. I 
 came out all right the next day. 
 
 After "regulating" things and opening that 
 trunk, we fixed up a trifle. I thought I would 
 stroll about the town, getting in as much of sight- 
 seeing as possible, time being short and we 
 getting near to our letter of credit. I went into 
 the hall and rung for the elevator, supposing the 
 cars ran as in hotels I am accustomed to patron- 
 ize. After waiting half an hour, I walked down 
 stairs to see what had become of the machine. I 
 was informed what we in civilized countries call 
 "elevators" are here, (and all over Europe, with 
 few exceptions,) known as "lifts," that is, they 
 take — lift you up, but you go down on your own 
 merits. My wife experiences more difficulty in 
 going down than in mounting stairways ; this 
 was therefore an unpleasant outlook. I found 
 the ship's methods availed on land and soon had 
 a satisfactory understanding with the engineer, 
 the satisfaction costing about five lira — one dollar. 
 
 European elevators, or lifts, are not dangerous. 
 They are however made of poor material and un- 
 
 6i 
 
able to stand any great strain. Mary broke every 
 one in every hotel we visited. She says it was 
 simply a coincidence ; I know it was fact. If you 
 desire an afternoon ride, get into one and tell 
 whoever works the lever you wish to get out at 
 the second story, what they call their second .... 
 Start soon after luncheon and you may get up in 
 time for dinner. Slow? Molasses in winter has 
 a railroad speed compared to them. Their style 
 differs in different hotels. This you will be 
 thankful for. Some have a boy, (hired because 
 he knows absolutely nothing about running the 
 concern), to drive the hearse, and to let you out 
 when you appear tired, or think you are some- 
 where in the neighborhood of your hall. Others 
 are said to be "automatic." They are. You enter 
 and tell the agent the name of the station at which 
 you desire to stop. The door is shut, something 
 is fixed, and you are let "go Gallagher." If you 
 have led a decent life in this world, the chances 
 are the funeral will stop at the proper place. 
 We never went beyond. 
 
 The sights in the streets interested me greatly, 
 everything was so novel. What looked like tram- 
 cars ran about apparently as the judgment of the 
 horses dictated, there being no rails that I could 
 see. They got along as well as if nickel-plate had 
 been laid, the pavements were so smooth. You 
 pay two centimes a ride and get a ticket included, 
 that the conductor may know you are on the 
 
 62 
 
train. They never take it up, and I brought mine 
 home so as to have them on hand when I go again. 
 The streets, now and then, have sidewalks, except 
 where they are extremely narrow. By narrow I 
 mean three feet or less in width. Here and there 
 you see a pair of stairs, leading from one street to 
 another, up hill. It saves going around the 
 block. The Police are the most gorgeous mortals 
 I ever met. After I had seen a few dozens of 
 them, I concluded the Italian army was encamped 
 near by and the Major Generals were taking a 
 a brief respite from duty by strolling through the 
 town. They wear cocked hats, epaulets, buttons 
 galore, and what appear to be gold swords dang- 
 ling between their legs. The size of the weapon 
 is somewhat larger than our cavalry sabre, and of 
 the same shape. On top of all this is enough or- 
 namentation to make them a first-class sign for a 
 wholesale clothing establishment. I never saw 
 them arrest anyone, though it appeared to me 
 they had abundant opportunities. Wages must 
 be low, or it does not pay to over-work themselves. 
 While walking about and drinking in the kaleido- 
 scopic views, I began to feel like taking a smoke. 
 All my tobacco had gone, as I have stated, to the 
 engineer aboard of the boat, so I purchased some 
 cigars, (that is what they called them,) three of 
 them, at a little shop presided over by a Seigniora, 
 no doubt the wife of a Duke. They were alleged 
 to be made of real Virginia leaf. If they were, I 
 
 63 
 
hope Italy has a monopoly of the crop. I've been 
 in Virginia, but have never .seen any tobacco that 
 could, or would, hold a candle to this compound. 
 These vanilla beans called cigars, are about eight 
 inches long, three-quarters of an inch thick and 
 black as a lead penciL One end has a piece of 
 straw glued on for a mouth-piece, or holder, and 
 through the entire length runs a broom corn 
 which you pull out before lighting, so as to get a 
 draught and form the chimney. I smoked nearly 
 a quarter of an inch of this insulated electric wire 
 and threw the other two away. Then I bought 
 cigarettes, on which I lived till reaching Amster- 
 dam, where really goods cigars may be obtained. 
 We dined at five o clock everything on the 
 table being well cooked and served. Ice-water 
 was the only dish lacking. My wife ordered a 
 glass. The head waiter, evidently astounded at 
 her rashness, sent for the Coroner and sum.moned 
 a jury. I thought he did, as he was so long get- 
 ting it. Perhaps they had to freeze it, or send 
 into the Alps for a supply. When I am in Italy I 
 do as the Italians do. I stick to Chianti, it's cheaper. 
 Ice-water at twelve cents a glass and wine at six a 
 litre make me prefer wine. It has always been 
 necessary for me to practice economy, as my 
 charges are low and my paying patients few. 
 
 In the evening we were visited by some of the 
 ladies who had been fellow-passengers on the 
 "Werra," the doctor, and the "Lunatic," who sug- 
 
 64 
 
gested visiting a place of amusement. Though I 
 thought I had been in one ever since I put my 
 feet on land, my wife and I accepted. I have not 
 the faintest idea where we went. We followed 
 the doctor, who seemed to know the city by heart. 
 And why should he not ? He had been here often 
 enough. He took care of the "Belle of the ship," 
 a young lady from Kentucky, who apparently had 
 captured his heart for the time, or trip ; the "Lu- 
 natic" guided my wife, (and he had his hands full) 
 buying her flowers and paying other little atten- 
 tions that did not make me at all jealous. I 
 brought up the rear, now and then catching up 
 with the procession to see that proper decorum 
 was maintained. We landed in a Garden, where, 
 to the disgust of my wife and the other ladies, 
 bier, wine and smoke, make up the entertainment. 
 My wife, as if to set an example of temperance, 
 or assume a virtue, called for a lemonade. She 
 got what she deserved, namely a bottle of what 
 we know as lemon soda. She has learned to ask 
 for "lemon squash" when she wants the real ar- 
 ticle. We returned late in the evening and 
 walked up stairs. The "lift" was asleep. We 
 again "arranged" things, and after lighting the 
 two tallow dips, (extra charge) went to bed. 
 Whatever may be said against the Italians, I'll 
 stick up for their beds. I think the one I slept in 
 was the most delicious, heavenly lay-out I have 
 ever experienced. My wife said they were no 
 
 65 
 
better than those we had at home, but that we en- 
 joyed and appreciated them more on account of 
 the difference between them and the ship's berths. 
 On the whole, I think her diagnosis was correct. 
 The next morning we went to breakfast by way 
 of tlie "lift." That finished, we held a consulta- 
 tion as to our future route and sundry other mat- 
 ters, wrote letters, packed our steamer rugs and 
 clothing to be sent to Liverpool, to await our sail- 
 ing by the "Majestic" on August 12th. We here 
 instituted a plan of sight-seeing which we found 
 so convenient we continued it during our entire 
 outing. First, we engaged a guide — in this case 
 we took our Interpreter, hired a cab and told the 
 duke on the box to drive to everywhere in the 
 city, no matter how much time it consumed, or 
 how many lira it cost. They have a curious way 
 of urging on the horses. This is done, not by say- 
 ing "get up" in Italian, but by a sort of chirrup, 
 which it is impossible to express in words. It has 
 the effect. Mary got it to perfection, and when- 
 ever she wished me to step lively made the 
 whistling sound. In this way we saw the people, 
 the buildings, the linen of the dukes and duch- 
 esses hanging out of the windows to dry, 
 and every other outside thing in the place. 
 After that we did interiors, museums, churches, 
 palaces. It costs more than to follow "Baedeker," 
 but the results are better and you get over the 
 ground faster. We visited everything worth see- 
 
 66 
 
ing, including- the monument of Columbus, in the 
 center of the spacious Piazza Aqua Verde, just 
 around the corner from our hotel, a magnificent 
 work of art, erected in 1862. The Cathedral, all 
 the churches, of which the "Annunziata" is the 
 most sumptuous ; the white and red palaces ; the 
 house at 37 Vicco Dritto Ponticelo St., where Co- 
 lumbus was born in 1446; the Municipio, or town 
 hall, where among many other objects of great 
 interest I saw the violin of Paganini, locked in an 
 iron vault, lined with quilted blue silk. The in- 
 strument is a "Guernarius." The fiddle of Savori 
 lies beneath it. Both are taken out three times a 
 year, played upon and put in order. They are 
 priceless relics to him who knows anything of the 
 mysteries of the king of instruments. 
 
 A volume could be written, filled Vv^ith descrip- 
 tions of what we saw this day. To guide-books 
 and other histories of Italian cities I must refer 
 the reader. I do not want to bring too many 
 chestnuts into this. One place I must mention, 
 the "Campo Santo," or burial grotmd, the most 
 magnificent in the world. Perhaps we were 
 attracted to it by reason of my association with 
 the work laid out in it. Statuary most graceful 
 and artistic, works of art in themselves, and 
 worthy of a more noble resting place, line the 
 long corridors for miles. Every nook, corner and 
 space is adorned with them. Beneath your feet 
 are the resting places of the dead, over which you 
 
 67 
 
walk, these wonderful monuments, mementoes of 
 love and affection, bringing to mind heroic 
 virtues, if the dead in life were in keeping with 
 the grandeur of their tomb-stones. The whole is 
 beyond description, and a more nimble pen than 
 mine is needed to describe the magnificence of 
 the spot. Italian art is a big thing. I've learned 
 something about it and admire it. Prof. A. 
 Springer, has written a good deal on the subject 
 and to his exhaustive works I refer you. We had 
 a great day of it and filled but not satiated, we 
 returned to the hotel for dinner. In the evening 
 I went to the theater. Mary was exhausted, so I 
 allowed her to remain at home. The doctor, the 
 "Lunatic" and I made up the crowd and filled the 
 auditorium. It rained in torrents after the per- 
 formance, and we walked to our domicile in the 
 drenching outpour. The cars and omnibuses do 
 not run at night. The wheels are tired. As I lay 
 on my bed courting sleep, through my window 
 came the sound of voices. Young fellows going 
 home, or out for some lark, singing as only Italians 
 can, now in soli, now in duetto, then in unison. 
 It was a free concert occurring every few minutes 
 as the young lads sauntered along. It would cost 
 a dollar and a half in New York to hear sing- 
 ing that could not compare with this. 
 
 From Genoa many delightful excursions may 
 be made. Our time being so limited we post- 
 poned falling into temptation until our next visit. 
 
 68 
 
We bade farewell to the doctor, and to the "Lu- 
 natic," also to others of our boat friends who had 
 remained with us during our stay in Genoa. 
 There was a Professor of Astronomy, with his 
 sister, a most charming girl who had come over 
 with us, and were on their way to the North Cape 
 to make some kind of observation on an eclipse 
 of the sun. They had a good deal of trouble in 
 getting there, and after all the pains taken the 
 day was cloudy, and they did not see the display. 
 They traveled with us as far as Florence, but from 
 the day of leaving us at that point, we have not 
 seen them. I'd like to meet the sister again. As 
 for the Professor, I'll turn him over to my wife. 
 We left for Pisa and Rome the next day. 
 
 69 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 PISA. 
 
 WE left Genoa for Rome via Pisa, June 6th? 
 at 12:42 P M. The railroad wends its way 
 along the shores of the Mediterranean, through 
 two hundred and fifty tunnels, I do not think 
 this is exaggerated by one tunnel. The ride was 
 one of surpassing interest, as every moment "new 
 novelties" greeted the sight. Here and there 
 vineyards, the vines hanging from the mulberry 
 trees, festooned in every conceivable and fantas- 
 tic shape. Olive groves and gardens, flowers 
 blooming in almost tropic luxuriance. Men and 
 women working in the fields, the women doing 
 the hardest part of the labor, as they should. Once 
 I saw a woman and a cow hitched to a plow, pull- 
 ing it along as if it were a matter of course. The 
 huts, or houses, built of stone, usually a single 
 story high, are vine-clad, nestling amid flowers 
 and blooms. Some ape great dignity, the stucco 
 front ornamented between the stones with painted 
 balconies making them appear as real. The roofs 
 are covered with tiles, like a red drain pipe cut in 
 two and placed side b}^ side till the top of the 
 building is covered. Where these fail to perform 
 
 70 
 
their function, straw or dried grass make up 
 vfhat is lacking. Horses are few and far be- 
 tween, the little donkey or jackass doing what 
 horses do for us. It appears wonderful what these 
 little animals accomplish, the loads they pull and 
 the gait they keep up. To be sure, the roads are 
 like a floor, hard as stone can make them, without 
 mud, holes or roughness. The carts are immense 
 structures, with two wheels only, each nearly five 
 feet in diameter, the thills big enough to be floor 
 timbers and the entire get up cumbersome and 
 crude. Still these little fellows draw them along at 
 a good pace, even when laden so as to appear top- 
 heavy. Once I saw four persons, two women and 
 two men, attempt to mount one of these carts, 
 though it seemed to be loaded sufficiently at the 
 time. The last to mount was a stout woman. She 
 got on by the rear and the weight of her anatomi- 
 cal structure so displaced the center of gravity, 
 the poor little beast was lifted entirely from his 
 feet and hung dangling in the air. The matter 
 was adjusted after the aforesaid woman got off, 
 and stowed her body nearer the middle of the ark. 
 The harness is heavy enough for a derrick, the 
 saddle the most ponderous of all the connections. 
 It appears to me there is room in Italy for a chap- 
 ter of the "Society for the Prevention of Cruelty 
 to Animals." But you can't tell, the jackass may 
 not be getting anything more than he deserves. 
 It was our first ride in a foreign railroad train. 
 
 71 
 
We had heard much of the discomfort of travel by 
 railroads in Europe, but I have failed to see it. I 
 think it depends a good deal on the traveler. The 
 cars are short, not much if any longer than twenty 
 feet, with two wheels at each end, four in all. The 
 car is divided into compartments of different 
 classes. Some are entirely of the first-class,'some of 
 the second, some of the third. Then you find first 
 and second mixed, then second and third. In 
 Germany they have a fourth class, which may be 
 used for military service in carrying troops and 
 horses and such impedimenta. In our travels we 
 used first-class in Italy and France, second in Ger- 
 many, England and elsewhere. We did not try 
 the fourth class, as in them you stand up. This 
 division is good enough for any one unless he is 
 a fool, or a Croesus. We never traveled at night, 
 so I can say nothing of the "sleepers." The ordi- 
 nary compartments, I believe, are turned into 
 them by pushing up the arms and giving you 
 some bedding. I am not sure but you have to 
 furnish the latter yourself. In England ''Wag- 
 ners" and "Pullmans" are being rapidly introduced. 
 I saw no freight cars, that is box cars similar to 
 ours. All the freight is placed on platforms and 
 covered with tarpaulins, held down by ropes 
 tied at the corners. There may be other varieties, 
 but I do not remember them. The engines are 
 small affairs, but powerful, very different in ap- 
 pearance to those we use. Some have cabs, others 
 
 72 
 
not. All the coaches are lighted by gas, and in 
 Italy they are kept constantly burning as the 
 number of tunnels is so great. A signal is 
 placed in the top of each compartment with 
 instructions how to use it if any danger threatens 
 the train or passenger. The penalty for monkey- 
 ing with it is severe. Little difference is seen in 
 the make-up of the first and second class com- 
 partments. The former are perhaps a trifle more 
 luxuriously furnished, and have a looking glass. 
 The glass seems to be the principal ornamenta- 
 tion, even when the seats are covered with velvet 
 plush, as they usually are. The leather-covered 
 ones in the second class are much cooler and more 
 agreeable. Overhead are large and capacious 
 racks for holding rugs, umbrellas, bundles and pur- 
 chases. Beneath the seats is ample room to stow 
 away the baby, and other useless articles. The 
 motion of the carriage while running is an oscil- 
 lating one, very disagreeable to those who suffer 
 from the impediment of adipose, not unpleasant 
 to the average weight. It bothered Mary some- 
 what. In all the trains we had every comfort, lava- 
 tories, observation platforms, towels, drinking 
 water, every convenience of travel. The seats 
 are across, not length-wise of the compartment. 
 There are two in each, facing. Each is divided 
 by a movable arm, which may be turned up at 
 night, or at any time. The seats hold eight per- 
 sons. In some compartments smoking is allowed, 
 
 73 
 
in others not, there being no special "smoker." 
 In those in which it is permitted, ash-receivers 
 and other conveniences are at hand for the user 
 of the weed. Above each seat is a map of the 
 route and full explanations of the rules of the 
 company in four languages, Italian, German, 
 French and English. Ten or twelve of these 
 cars usually make up a train. They do not run 
 on "Empire Express" time, the average for the 
 fastest being about twenty-five miles an hour. 
 Tliis, I judge, is done in order that the people 
 m.ay think they have a large country, for should 
 the speed be much faster than it is, the whole 
 business would shoot out of the domain in an 
 hour or two, thus producing unbelief in their 
 geographies, or start a revolution. The road-beds 
 are magnificent, far ahead of those in America. 
 Stone fences separate themi from the highways 
 and adjoining lands, the sides being walled up 
 making them smooth and clean in appearance. 
 "Grade crossings" go under the track, so the 
 train and the country wagons do not occupy the 
 same space at the same time. The experiments 
 made in my native land to accomplish this feat 
 have proved disastrous to all but surgeons. The 
 coal used is pressed into blocks about three times 
 the size of an American brick. It is smooth and 
 polished like marble. At every station it is piled 
 in immense stacks ready for loading upon the 
 tender. 
 
 74 
 
The starting of a train is no small affair. It is 
 a regular Fourth of July. It is not done by the 
 stroke of a bell, or the wave of a hand. Oh, no ! 
 We do it in that way, they don't. It is too big a 
 thing, too big a business to be let off in so unos- 
 tentatious a manner. It merits more attention. 
 First a horn is blown ; then the station-bell is 
 rung ; then the conductor has his innings and 
 blows another horn ; last the engineer whistles 
 and the train moves on. The whistle on the loco- 
 motive is, from its sound, about an inch long and 
 one-quarter of an inch in diameter. It makes no 
 more noise than the willow variety constructed by 
 the average school boy, not so much. I never 
 passed another train in motion. One stands 
 still, till the other has gone on. This insures 
 safety. The tracks are, as a rule, single ones, but 
 have more curves than a work on Geometry. The 
 station houses are large and divided into depart- 
 ments, or offices, as numerous as a lottery agency. 
 Telegraph wires are strung along the road and 
 that they may not get out of order, or fall down, 
 two poles, often three, hold the wire at the same 
 point. This is too frequent to be an accident, it is 
 the rule. Block-signals are coming into use, but 
 how operated I know not. I saw no towers, hence 
 think they are worked by a string. 
 
 This is about the way you board a train : First 
 give some money to everybody in the hotel, in- 
 cluding the cook, whom you probably have never 
 
 75 
 
vSeen. Then hire a carriage. Pay the porter for 
 putting your trunks and other traps on board, 
 after giving something to the hall-man for strap- 
 ping them and bring them down stairs. Ride to 
 the station. Pay the driver his fare, and remu- 
 nerate him for the honor he has conferred upon 
 you in permitting you to ride in his vehicle. A 
 man now meets you as you dismount to take your 
 hand-luggage. Pay him something for his act of 
 kindness. Another takes your trunks into the 
 baggage-room. Don't forget him, or he will jog 
 your memory. Then buy your ticket. You give 
 the agent his present when you buy it, it is inclu- 
 ded in the charge. Have your trunks and kit 
 weighed. This will cost a coin of the realm for the 
 trouble. You are then handed a piece of paper, 
 with some unintelligible jargon and figures on it, 
 a duplicate of which is pasted on your trunk for 
 identification. This they think is /'checking." 
 They do it this way because they know no better. 
 It serves its purpose, however, and as a rule, you 
 get what you pay for — that is, your trunks. You 
 think you are done paying. Oh, no. You have 
 only struck the preface. At the door of the 
 platform is another angel to help you and your 
 flowers, umbrellas, luncheon and such, into your 
 compartment. He has a large family in destitute 
 circumstances, and as you do not wish to go out of 
 the country knowing you have left a suffering 
 mortal behind, when it is in your power to help 
 
 76 
 
 1 
 
him out of the scrape, present him with a tip. 
 After you are in your seat you count your change, 
 and look over your letter of credit to see if you 
 have enough to get a night's lodging. Soon they 
 yell out something which I presume may be 
 translated "all aboard," the guard shuts and fastens 
 the door, and after the concert of bells, trumpets 
 and whistles by the officials is over, the train 
 starts. I could not do the thing better myself. 
 
 I have heard a good deal said about being 
 "locked in" these compartments. For the life of 
 me I cannot see why a man in his senses wants 
 to get out while the train is in motion. Mary nor 
 I did not. The statement is over drawn. You are 
 no more "locked in" than you are in our own cars. 
 If you wish to open the door you may do so, and 
 you may take a walk on the little platform run- 
 ning around the car. It is against the rules, but 
 you take your chances. The door is kept shut 
 for your safety. If you want to break your neck, 
 it is not the comxpany's fault. Another good thing 
 about these railroads is, you cannot, unless you 
 are a blank fool, get into the wrong train, or out 
 at the wrong station. This is the mode of pro- 
 cedure : Buy a ticket. It is then looked at by a 
 man at the gate, then by another, after you have 
 passed the turnstile : then before you get into the 
 car, then before the train starts, and last by the 
 guard before the funeral has gone so far the 
 corpse cannot get home by walking. The pro- 
 cess is reversed when you arrive at where 
 
 17 
 
you wish, to stop. The guards on the train, 
 one to each car, take the places of our conductors. 
 (Don't forget to give him something in the way 
 of money before you get off.) They have a seat 
 on the top of the trap, where they look out and 
 study the country, every novv^ and then coming 
 down to see if you are on board. They are po- 
 lite, when you can make them understand what 
 you are talking about, or are going to give them 
 something. They are all uniformed, and don't 
 bother you looking at your ticket every ten min- 
 utes. At each important station the doors of the 
 compartments are thrown open and you may take 
 a stroll about the town before the train leaves if 
 you so desire. At every place vfhere the train 
 stops if only for a minute, wine, sausages, sand- 
 wiches, fruit and other edibles are offered for sale 
 by boys or women. Water is difficult to obtain. 
 Everything sold is reasonable (comparatively,) 
 clean and good. At a starting station when the 
 train has a long run, as from Paris to Calais, 
 lunch-baskets may be bought, and for a dollar you 
 get a bottle of wine, a chicken, rolls and butter, 
 knife and fork, napkins, tumbler, and some fruit. 
 It is sufficient for one and often for two. The 
 basket which contained the viands is left in the 
 compartment and gets back to the owner — some- 
 how. When you land at your desired haven you be- 
 gin paying out the same as when you started, 
 simply reversing the motion. The same band of 
 
 78 
 
robbers is around and not one of the gang is miss- 
 ing. You get tired after you have been doing it 
 all the time for three months. The gratuities 
 however are small. We soon got into the habit 
 of filling our pockets with what Mary called 
 "chicken feed," and a couple of dollars would last 
 us a day or longer, if we kept our heads and did 
 not mistake francs for centimes. Never hesitate 
 about giving, no matter how small the amount. 
 It will always be acceptable either in a church, 
 saloon, museum or catacomb. You'll be made 
 uncomfortable if you do not. The only thing to 
 remember is, not to give too much. If you do, 
 you will have more attention from the natives 
 than I usually bestow on my wife. The reader is 
 beginning to a,sk what all this talk has to with Pisa. 
 I answer, nothing. It is only a means to an end. 
 Pisa is a quiet town, the capital of a province 
 and situated six miles from the sea on both banks 
 of the Arno, over which one may cross by either 
 of four bridges. It became a Roman colony one 
 hundred and eighty years B. C, and looks as if it 
 had not recovered from it yet. The biggest thing 
 in it is the "Piazza Duomo," where are located 
 the Leaning Tower, Cathedral, the Baptistery and 
 the Campo Santo. To this every one goes as 
 soon as he sets foot in the place. The Cathedral, 
 Leaning Tower, the Baptistery with the Campo 
 Santo, form a group which, like Barnum's show, 
 has no equal of its kind on earth. It is outside 
 
 79 
 
the city proper, and they keep the Tower there 
 for fear it may tumble over on some of the boys 
 going home late at night. In the Cathedral is 
 the bronze lamp from the swaying of which Ga- 
 lileo got the idea of grandfather's clock. The 
 idea was a good one as long as it lasted. The in- 
 terior is like all other cathedrals, filled with altars, 
 candles, pictures and wooden saints, images of 
 the originals and just as good. The Baptistery is 
 a kind of annex to the cathedral and is run by 
 the Baptist end of the Roman church. It was 
 started in 1153 and does not yet appear completed 
 The eight-story Clock Tower, called "The Lean- 
 ing Tower," thirteen feet out of plumb in a height 
 of 1 79 feet, is surrounded by a lot of columns to 
 hold it up. These run to the top, practically mak- 
 ing the whole machine. Some one was off his base 
 when it was started, or full, which has produced the 
 curious effect that has given it so much distinction. 
 Temperance people say the leaning is due to the 
 settling of the foundations. You may take your 
 choice. I have my opinion. Galileo worked up a lot 
 of business for Gravitation by reason of this crook- 
 edness, and helped Physics to be more stupid 
 than its forefathers intended. This tower has 
 seven bells, four more than a church near my re- 
 sidence at home. I pity the people. Those at 
 home are rung every Sunday morning at 7:30. 
 Now there are only about half a dozen Christians 
 within sound of the noise, all others in the neigh- 
 borhood being otherwise. I never could under- 
 
 80 
 
stand the need of cutting up the row they do, just 
 for the sake of getting so few inside the Insurance 
 building at so earl}^ an hour. They pay their 
 bills no quicker during the week. I am opposed 
 to bells, not only on the score of disturbance to 
 health, but because I own a watch. The Campo 
 Santo is built out of fifty-three ship-loads of earth 
 brought from Mount Calvary. They freighted 
 the land over at reduced rates, so those who 
 thought themselves better than common folks 
 might lie snugger than the other bugger buried 
 elsewhere. Every one planted in it is as dead as 
 a smelt, and their foreign address is unknown. 
 I do not see that they can rise any sooner than if 
 they had been cremated. It is every one to his 
 taste. Mary says when she dies she wants to go 
 to Paris, not to Pisa. All the buildings contain 
 paintings and frescoes, more or less poor. Some 
 are said to be good, I am no judge. At any 
 rate they have age with them. 
 
 Beside these unusual attractions, there is a Uni- 
 versity and any number of common churches, all 
 owned by a Saint syndicate; at least they are 
 named after some one of the lot. It's a large com- 
 pany. From what I have seen I should think 
 there were nearly half a million in Italy alone, 
 that is Saints, The Lungarno is the busy part of 
 the city, where are the wharves extending along 
 both banks of the river. If you wish to know all 
 we saw in Pisa, get your Baedeker and read up. 
 The print is fine and so are the descriptions. 
 
 8i 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 ROME. 
 "The Niobe of Nations." 
 
 WE reached the Eternal City at ii:^o P. M. 
 and were driven to the Hotel Minerva. It 
 is near the center of the city, on the Piazza della 
 Minerva, beside the church of S. Maria Minerva 
 and within sight of the Pantheon. Before it stands 
 a monument made up of an elephant in marble, 
 on the back of which a small ancient obelisk was 
 placed by Bernini in 1667, We slept well after 
 our long ride and awoke early. Here, as else- 
 where, everything is left-handed. The corres- 
 pondence paper has its name and announcement 
 on the last page. You dry your writing with 
 sand instead of with blotting pads ; doors open in, 
 when they should open out, and have locks and 
 keys large enough for a state prison. The floors 
 are of stone, covered with rugs, or pieces of car- 
 pet. Candles try to dispel the darkness at night, 
 after the twilight which lingers here till near 
 midnight is done. 
 
 "The lifts" are the same freight and accommo- 
 dation trains as in all European hotels. No one 
 need hesitate about traveling in Italy, or, in fact, 
 
 82 
 
any country of Europe, by reason of a want of 
 knowledge of the country's language. English is 
 spoken everywhere, at the hotels, at the tourist 
 agencies, by the guides and by many you meet in 
 the streets and stores. If any foreign tongue is 
 to be acquired, let it be French. With this latter 
 you can get along without the slightest trouble. 
 Nearly everyone speaks it, especially in Italy, from 
 the shoe-black on the street to the driver on the 
 hack. I bought a "Phrase book" before leaving 
 home, warranted to contain all useful (?) expres- 
 sions in four languages. It was a snare and a de- 
 lusion. Listen to this as an example : "Bring me 
 your carriage and horses, that I may see them, and 
 if I like them I will buy them." Did you ever 
 read anything more idiotic? What I wanted to 
 say was : "Bring me some more bier," or some- 
 thing that was like it, matters that pertained to 
 my temporal and spiritual welfare. Real solid 
 experiences are not in these "horn books." Then 
 there are no swear-words. I never use profanity, 
 but I often think it, especially when traveling. 
 You can't get along without it. If you can swear 
 in a foreign language it eases you up, and don't 
 count against you later, that is in the "sweet bye 
 and bye." You think swear so often in Europe 
 when you are called upon to pay for what you 
 have not had, that it pays to have it on tap, and 
 always proves itself a good thing. You feel 
 better when the depth of the circumstances de 
 
 83 
 
mands it. A friend of mine wrote me out a lot 
 of words, but forgot to put the "swear" in. They 
 were of no earthly use. He is a Presbyterian. I 
 caught onto a few gems, more or less forcible, 
 from the guide, and I use them even now. I can 
 swear at Mary and she thinks I am calling her pet 
 names. She swears, but her methods differ from 
 mine. I understand her. 
 
 It is impossible to describe in words how Rome 
 impressed us. One must see it. Only then will 
 he know how it feels. You cannot tell it, you feci 
 it. As you walk through the city your history and 
 your classics come back. You dream of the cen- 
 turies long gone when Rome was mistress of the 
 world. You walk under triumphal arches, enter 
 the Pantheon, the only ancient edifice which is 
 still in perfect preservation, visit the houses of the 
 Csesars, go down into the prison where Paul and 
 Peter were confined, stand within the churches 
 and beside the tombs, upon the places where men 
 have died "without the shedding of blood" for 
 what was then called heresy, and what we know 
 now as truth. You see in mental vision, the wild 
 beasts in the dens of the Colosseum, the victim 
 waiting in the arena; the Emperor, the Vestal 
 Virgins, and the populace filling the auditorium : 
 you hear the applause, or see the thumbs turned 
 down. What memories rise, what shudders creep 
 over you ! You love it, yet hate it. Here learning 
 was advanced, but freedom of thought and science 
 
 84 
 
were throttled. Here was the center of the world, 
 and here men died that Truth might live. 
 
 As "Rome was not built in a da,y," so its wonders 
 cannot be seen in a hasty visit. A year is all too 
 short to grasp, or even read the preface of the 
 interesting volume here opened. From the Dome 
 of Saint Peter's, and the tomb of Hadrian, across 
 the Bridge of the C^sars, to the end of the Appian 
 Way, by the Mausoleums of those who have 
 carved out the history of the world, each spot, 
 each stone, every vista calls to mind some incident 
 fraught with memories. To the Christian, and to 
 the Unbeliever, Rome has its pages written in 
 records that defy the tooth of Time. All that is 
 beautiful in art is here. The brush of the painter, 
 and the chisel of the sculptor adorn corridor and 
 aisle. Temples and palaces tell of the might and 
 power of church and state ; Pope, prince and po- 
 tentate speak of rule and influence, reaching out 
 to the ends of the earth. How unspeakably grand 
 it is, how dwarfed one feels amid these records of 
 the past and present. 
 
 Sunday was our first day in this marvelous place. 
 We engaged a guide at once, and he proved the 
 best in all our journeyings. He had been the es- 
 cort of many distinguished Americans, and had 
 honored them by accepting their cards, to which 
 collection I added mine, after paying him five 
 liras a day and giving him some money as a re- 
 membrance. I shall try to get hold of him on my 
 next visit. 
 
 85 
 
We went first to the Forum, througli the ruins 
 of the Ancient City to the Colosseum, spending 
 many hours among these reminders of years 
 long gone. We went, however, to vespers at St. 
 Peter's in the afternoon, so got credit for being 
 religious. The King broke the day by reviewing 
 the troops and having a grand display of fire- 
 works in the evening. 
 
 We saw many of the Italian soldiers just re- 
 turned from Africa, and a sorry lot they were, 
 from the thrashing they received. Each day we 
 visited the hitherto unknown and dreamed of 
 places of interest. St. Peter's, the churches, the 
 Vatican, monuments, arches and ways, statues and 
 columns, galleries and paintings, fountains and 
 baths, catacombs and tombs, gardens and shops, 
 temples and prisons ; saw dead Popes and live 
 ones, saints and sinners, fat and jolly Cardinals 
 and Bishops, and the barefooted missionary, 
 types of every order belonging to the great 
 church ; crossed the Tiber again and again, saw 
 everything, in fact, that makes Rome the grand- 
 est and most historically interesting city in the 
 world. To a pen like that of Gibbon must be left 
 the description of them all : m)^ poor diction feels 
 its poverty of words. We visited the catacombs 
 of Callistus, on the Via Appia, the most interest- 
 ing of all the catacombs in Rome. Less fantas- 
 tic than that of the "Capuchins," they have the 
 merit of being older, and contain more of what is 
 
 S6 
 
left of genuine saints. I tried to obtain of the cus- 
 todian a small relic in the shape of a bone, but 
 he refused to part with any, though his stock was 
 large. I offered to buy one at his own price. 
 Strange to say, this met with a refusal. As a last 
 resort I offered to turn Catholic and allow him to 
 baptize me then and there. I got no bone. Per- 
 haps I did not know the ropes. In my business 
 a toe- joint would have been a big advertisement, 
 as I might have announced miracles could be 
 worked on the sick during office-hours at the old 
 price. An increase in the number of patients was 
 looked for to make the investment pay. I brought 
 home the remains of the little candle I used in my 
 investigation of the tombs. There may be some 
 virtue in that. 
 
 The Piazza Campo di Fiore, was to me a spot 
 fraught with sadness and thought, for here on 
 Feb. 17th, 1600, the hero, Giordano Bruno, suf- 
 fered death by being burned at the stake; his 
 heresy, the assertion that there were other worlds 
 than ours. Where that noble life went out, on the 
 spot where stood the stake, now stands a monu- 
 ment. Upon its top a statue. It is that of Bruno, 
 and the inscription reads "Sanctus Bruno." The 
 dome of St Peter's, and the columns of the Vati- 
 can are just beyond. Some of us who are here- 
 tics to-day may be saints to-morrow. Who knows ? 
 The world moves. 
 
 87 
 
In Rome carriage hire is cheap. For the equiva- 
 lent of a dollar, we had a "Fiacre" with a driver 
 the entire day. This wage does not include your 
 present, vv^hich if you feel particularly generous, 
 may amount to ten cents, half a lira. You can get 
 around by the tram-cars if you wish to save money, 
 or reduce expenses, but it is less annoying by the 
 carriage, beside saving much walking. The ex- 
 change on my gold paid all this, and left some- 
 thing over for lemon squashes for Mary. The 
 water in Rome is pure and plentiful. Ice is scarce. 
 The old aquedu.ct of Claudius is still used in part 
 and the supply is full and abundant. Fountains 
 play everywhere, and the stream is not the size of 
 a goose quill either. It rushes in torrents, cooling 
 all about it. We had been told not to go so far 
 south at this time of the year, as Roman fever was 
 apt to find lodgement in the unacclimated. We 
 took the chances and quinine. I think all this 
 talk about Roman fever is largely exaggerated. 
 Medical and Sanitary Science have done much to 
 abort it by better drainage, drying the low lands, 
 as in the Compagnia, and furnishing a more 
 abundant supply of wholesome water. That it 
 does occur I do not doubt, especially in the fall 
 months. Winter is really the time to visit the 
 city. The only thing I should fear being the 
 inability to keep warm. The modes of heating 
 seem very primitive and not likely to accomplish 
 the desired result. The stoves, (there is no hot- 
 
 88 
 
air or steam heat tliat I saw) are high porcelain 
 boxes with the feed-door and all means of regula,- 
 ting them out in the hall, beyond the reach of him 
 who desires to keep warm. Your comfort depends 
 evidently on the friendly relations you establish 
 with the hall-boy. I suppose you get so much 
 caloric for so many soldi. 
 
 The Romans are great rascals as tradesmen. I 
 have not met "the noblest of them all." They 
 catch on to you as soon as they see you, and 
 knowing you are a foreigner put up the price. 
 After a few days when I went shopping, I passed 
 myself off as a Spaniard, (this was before the war) 
 hoping to get rates somewhere near the value of 
 things. I do not know whether it made any dif- 
 ference or not. 
 
 As in all European cities, the inhabitants live 
 out of doors when the weather and temperature 
 permit. Little tables are seen everywhere in 
 front of the cafes, and men and women taking 
 luncheon, or drinking wine. They do not seem 
 to be annoyed by flies, though fleas attract a good 
 deal of attention. Ask Mary. We bought here, 
 as elsewhere, photographs of all noted pictures 
 and statuary, as well as of the most interesting 
 ruins and buildings, sending them home un- 
 mounted by registered post, thereby saving the 
 payment of duty. It is useless to say our stay v\^as 
 all too short. Weeks may be spent in investigat- 
 ing all that is here to be seen. A life-time could 
 
 89 
 
hardly complete it. Old, before Time began its 
 overthrow, Rome is ever new. Each turn brings 
 to view a lovelier historic picture. Its temples 
 tell of its might and power ; its ruins of what it 
 has been. It would almost seem as if the pro- 
 phetic saying of the pilgrims of the eighth cen- 
 tury was true : 
 
 "While stands the Colosseum, Rome shall stand, 
 
 When falls the Colosseum, Rome shall fall, 
 
 And when Rome falls, with it shall fall the world." 
 
 Of course many amusing incidents occurred 
 during our stay. I recall one in particular. We 
 had been "doing" the town in the morning, and 
 had stopped at a cafe for luncheon. The guide 
 excused himself, saying he washed to go home, as 
 his wife was ill, but would return before we were 
 ready to sally forth to new adventures. The Pro- 
 fessor and his pretty sister were with us. After 
 seating ourselves at the table, the menu was 
 placed before us. It was written, or printed, in 
 Italian, (we never could decide which) and in so 
 poor and illegible a style, that even the Professor, 
 with all his learning, could not decipher it. It 
 looked like a sixth copy done on a third-hand 
 type-writer. I think it was etched with a broken 
 electric pen, or perhaps it was one of those "foun- 
 tain" fellows. We tried to read it so as to make a 
 selection, but did not order for fear of getting 
 something we would not relish, or entirely differ- 
 ent from what we supposed, as did a traveling 
 
 90 
 
acquaintance in Germany, who ordered what he 
 supposed were strawberries, but got potatoes. We 
 decided on macaroni, though we had eaten it in 
 all the forms and disguises into which the Italians 
 are capable of putting it. It came, and such a 
 plate, or deckful. Mounted in tomatoes and other 
 decorations, it was a beauty. My wife, as chaperon 
 of the party, was requested to serve it. She had 
 seen the natives tackle the job, and in her inno- 
 cency thought she was as agile as they. She 
 failed. How to get those long nursing tubes onto 
 a plate was the trouble. In a fit of desperation 
 she made hash of the lot and served it to us as 
 best she could. We ate it, but not in due and 
 ancient form. In trying to get the mess into our 
 mouths, most of it went back to the plates, on the 
 table, or floor. We earned by honest labor what 
 we subsequently paid for in hard cash. It is an 
 art to eat macaroni. The Italians have a knack of 
 sticking a fork into the mass, rolling the fork over 
 two or three times, when it goes into the mouth 
 as slick as you please. No trouble whatever. We 
 did not acquire the modus operandi. To my mind 
 an easy way would be to throw it over a clothes 
 line and eat upwards. It would not be aesthetic, 
 but you'd get the macaroni. 
 
 It was here Mary began to get in full swing at 
 an expression she had practiced on shipboard, 
 namely, "Don't." The word was always aimed 
 at me, I must own. All through our journey, 
 
 91 
 
when she could think of nothing else to say, she 
 said "don't." She is not over the habit yet. If I 
 had a centime for every time she hurled it at me, 
 I'd be a man of wealth, and could support all her 
 relations. It was omnipresent in her conversations. 
 If you could not understand the word, you'd think 
 she was talking a streak in Italian, or French. I 
 paid no attention to it after a while, because I 
 could always tell when it was coming in, or should 
 do so. It is a useless word, so far as I am con- 
 cerned, and tends to stifle freedom of action or 
 speech. Somehow I cannot break her of the habit. 
 She never uses it when I offer her a ten dollar 
 note. Strange, is it not? 
 
 I purchased a lot of beads in the Catacombs, 
 said to have been blessed by the Holy Father, 
 (they were by me several times before I reached 
 home, but I used other formula than those pre- 
 scribed by the Church.) I bought them as little 
 remembrances to my truly apostolic patients. In 
 order that they might be known as genuine, I 
 had the monk put his "ne varietur" in the shape 
 of a stamp on the lot. This cost a franc extra, 
 and did the beads good. My only regret was that 
 bone, and I shall never forgive the saint for his 
 selfishness. Roman mosaics are sold in all the 
 shops and by boys on the streets. All are dear in 
 price. The Colosseum and St. Peter's are the fa- 
 vorite designs. In St. Peter's there are few pic- 
 tures, the ornamentation other than the tombs of 
 
 92 
 
the Popes and Saints being the most exquisite 
 copies in mosaic of the celebrated paintings and 
 works of art in the Vatican galleries. We went 
 through the factory, or studio of the Pope, where 
 these magnificent copies are made. Some take a 
 life-time in being put together, and are kept for 
 the adornment of the great cathedral. Many are 
 on sale, but the price of those I wanted was be- 
 yond my means, and my wife did not wish to 
 forego a Paris bonnet in order to indulge my 
 aesthetic tastes. On thing I must mention. The 
 bronze statute of St. Peter. It is of the 5th cen- 
 tury and stands near the principal entrance. It 
 is an object of adoration by the devout. As they 
 pass by in line, each gives the right foot a wipe 
 with his sleeve to remove the microbes, then 
 presses his lips to it, and goes on a better man (it 
 is to be hoped). Mary would not do it. She 
 says she prefers to kiss a real live man, and on the 
 lips. She does not wish to waste her sweetness 
 on brass. She's right. I myself prefer living 
 Madonnas to oil paintings. By this frequent 
 osculation kept up daily for so many centuries, 
 the toes are worn away as far back as the ball of 
 the foot. I wonder where they have gone. I 
 honor all men who respect and live up to their 
 religious views, but I draw the line at Peter's toes. 
 We left Rome at 8:20 a. m. arriving in Naples 
 at 1:30 p. M. the same day. 
 
 93 
 
CHAPTER VIIL 
 
 NAPLES. POMPEII. 
 "Vedi Napoli e poi mori." 
 
 MAPLES is noted for its beggars and fleas, and 
 celebrated for its bay and museum. The 
 beggars comprise every blessed man in the city. 
 The fleas began on Mary in Genoa. They know a 
 good thing when they see it. We arrived at 13:30 
 o'clock, which means 1:30 in the afternoon in 
 civilized countries. After all, I do not know but 
 this method of computing time is a good one, as 
 you never get the morning a. m. mixed up with 
 the afternoon p. m. 
 
 We found quarters at the Victoria Hotel on the 
 banks of the bay. The Island of Capri with its 
 blue and green grottoes was before us, the moun- 
 tain of St. Elmo at our right, Vesuvius at our left. 
 The bay is the most beautiful in the world, there 
 is no question about it. The water blue as indigo, 
 the landscape clothed in vines, here and there a 
 sail, everything is a picture, all a dream. 
 
 After a good luncheon, we started out for a 
 drive. We rode all over the city and up to the 
 Convent of St. Martin, where we indulged in 
 several samples of "Chartreuse." I liked it so 
 
 94 
 
well, I would have brought the machinery for 
 making it home, had it not been for the Raines 
 Law. Near the end of the Strada di Piedigrotta^ 
 which forms the Grotta Nuova di Posilipo, is the 
 tomb of Virgil. The name of the monument is 
 without satisfactory historical foundation, but 
 probability and local tradition favor the presump- 
 tion that it was Virgil's last resting place. I am 
 glad I saw it. His assumed poetry made my life 
 miserable in youth, and broke up many a game of 
 ball. I have never used his Eclogues or Bucolics 
 in my practice since I read them, so what good 
 have they done me. 
 
 Beggars are everywhere. They follow your 
 carriage, cluster about you when you shop, and 
 are only a trifle more bold than the tradesmen. 
 Fleas are thicker than hair on a dog. They stick 
 to you like leeches. We brought specimens into 
 England — in our wraps. The National Mu- 
 seum is one of the finest in the world, not sur- 
 passed by the British Museum in London. It 
 started as a cavalry barrack in 1588. Since 
 1790 it has been fitted up for the reception 
 of the royal collection of pictures and antiquities. 
 Ferdinand ist, in 18 16, gave it the name of Muse 
 Real Borbonico. Here are united the collections 
 belonging to the crown, the Farnese collection 
 from Rome and Parma, those of the Palaces of 
 Portici and Capodimonte, and the excavated 
 treasures of Herculaneum, Pompeii, Stabise and 
 
 95 
 
Cumae. This whole now forms one of the finest 
 collections in the world. The Pompeian antiqui- 
 ties and objects of art in particular, as well as the 
 bronzes from Herculaneum, are unrivalled. 
 Within this museum is a "Sacred Room," to which 
 gentlemen only are admitted. Modesty forbids 
 describing it. I also saw here many surgical in- 
 struments taken from the buried city of Pompeii, 
 which were to me of great professional interest ; 
 scalpels, forceps, specula and many other tools, 
 much like our modern implements of medical 
 and surgical warfare. Evidently the doctors of 
 that date were in with the undertakers, as they 
 are to-day. 
 
 After dark we would walk along the border of 
 the bay, toward Mt. Vesuvius, watching the lava 
 in blood-red streams running down the sides. It 
 was a beautiful sight. During the day the smoke 
 could be seen lazily rising from the several craters 
 near the summit. The whole thing looked just 
 as it did in my old geography. I remember the 
 picture well, at the lower corner of the right hand 
 page. I hoped then to see it. I have. Would 
 that all the dreams of boyhood days might end as 
 happily. 
 
 They have a queer way of doing business over 
 here. When anything extraordinary is to take 
 place, as a National Exhibition, Fair, Horse Trot, 
 or an Eruption of Vesuvius, instead of trying to 
 get a crowd to come by cutting down rates, car- 
 
 96 
 
fares and reducing hotel prices, everything- goes 
 up double. They say it is their innings, and they 
 intend to make hay while the sun shines. They 
 are correct as far as their exchequer is concerned, 
 but it's outings for the visitors. I think Mary en- 
 joyed the view of the bay more than any scenery 
 while abroad. She kept her eye on it day and 
 night, so it would not get away. Also on me. I 
 give her credit for fine taste. It was great. The 
 weather now became much warmer, though the 
 days were clear and we had no rain of any account, 
 not enough to interfere with our pleasures. 
 
 Being so near to Pompeii, I decided to run over 
 and take a look at what was left of it. By reason 
 of the increased warmth, and as the whole journey 
 over the buried city must be done on foot, Mary 
 deemed it best to remain in Naples and allowed me 
 to go with the Professor and his pretty sister. It 
 was not long before I was gone with the sister and 
 the Professor going alone. I was still unmarried 
 and did not like to see so charming a girl neglected. 
 
 Before retiring the night prior to going to 
 Pompeii, Mary and I held a caucus as to future 
 movements. We decided to go home by way of 
 Lombardy, Switzerland, Bavaria, Austria, Ger- 
 many, Holland, Belgium, France and England, 
 after looking into one or two places remaining in 
 Italy. We bought a few rembrances for friends 
 the following day and considered all contracts 
 closed. 
 
 97 
 
POMPEII. 
 
 l^OMPEii is very like a corpse at a funeral. The 
 -1^ minister tells all about how good the dear 
 departed has been, but says nothing of the remains 
 in the front parlor. Leaving Naples at 8:20 in the 
 morning, we reached the late lamented after a 
 ride of an hour. As you step from the cars and 
 follow the street, it reminds you of Coney Island. 
 Booths, eating houses, ticket agents and souvenir 
 peddlers, are at every point. We took luncheon, 
 and after some discussion of the "whys and where- 
 fores," decided not to ascend Vesuvius, as it was 
 warm and the crust uncertain. Cook has a rail- 
 way for about half the distance, the remaining 
 ascent being made on foot, or on donkey back. It 
 costs several dollars to do do it right, and you 
 bring back nothing but tired legs, a strong smell 
 of sulphur and the motto "I have been up." I 
 could have told Mary that I had "been up" if the 
 Professor and his sister had not been around, and 
 she would have believed it, regarding me as a 
 greater hero than ever. But I never lie, that is 
 except to Mary. 
 
 Pompeii is mentioned for the first time in his- 
 tory, B. C, 310. Its monuments, however, prove 
 it of much greater antiquity. After many vicis- 
 
situdes of war and earthquakes, it got knocked out 
 in A. D. 6^,. It however revived, only to be over- 
 taken by the final castrophe of August 24th, A. D. 
 79. Showers of ashes and rapilli from the burn- 
 ing mountain covered it to a depth of seven, or 
 eight feet. The present superincumbent mass 
 is about twenty feet in thickness, the result of 
 subsequent eruptions. In 1748, the discovery of 
 some statues and bronze utensils by a peasant, at- 
 tracted the attention of Charles III, who caused 
 excavations to be made. All this you can read in 
 Baedeker, or other books. The town, if you call 
 it one, has a museum and library supported by 
 the goverment. Most of the moveable objects 
 and frescoes have been removed to the museum 
 at Naples ; many, however, are left and are worth 
 seeing. The museum here contains much of in- 
 terest, though nothing of artistic value. There 
 are amphorae, vases, rainspouts, etc., in terra-cotta, 
 vessels in bronze, carbonized articles of food, 
 skulls and skeletons of men and animals. There 
 are many interesting casts of bodies. Although 
 the soft parts had decayed in course of time, their 
 forms frequently remained imprinted on the 
 ashes, which afterwards hardened. In 1863 
 Fiorelli, made the ingenious experiment of care- 
 fully removing the bones and filling the cavity 
 with plaster, and he has succeeded in preserving 
 the figures and attitudes of the deceased after 
 their death-struggle. Among the figures are, a 
 
young girl with a ring on her finger, two women, 
 one tall and elderly, the other younger. A man 
 lying on his face, and one lying on his left side, 
 with the features remarkably well preserved. 
 
 The town was built in the form of an irregular 
 ellipse. The excavated portion embraces not 
 quite half, but probably the most important part 
 of it. It includes the Forum with the contiguous 
 temples and public buildings, two theatres with 
 large colonnades, the ampitheater and a consider- 
 able number of private dwellings more or less or- 
 nate. The streets, bordered by sidewalks, are 
 straight and narrow, being paved with large poly- 
 gonal blocks of lava. At intervals, especially at 
 the corners, are placed high stepping stones in- 
 tended for the convenience of foot passengers in 
 rainy weather. The chariot wheels have left deep 
 ruts where traffic was most frequent. At the cor- 
 ners are public fountains decorated with the head 
 of a god, a phallus, a mask, or a similar ornament. 
 Notices are frequently seen painted in red letters, 
 referring to the election of the municipal officers, 
 and recommending some particular individual as 
 sedile, or duumvir. Stuccoed walls are often 
 covered with roughly scratched drawings, resem- 
 bling those with which our streets Arabs still de- 
 light to decorate blank surfaces. What have been 
 the busiest streets may be identified by means of 
 the shops, which were let to merchants in the same 
 way as the ground floors of the Palazzi in Naples 
 
 ICO 
 
are occupied by the shops of the present day. 
 These shops were generally in no way connected 
 with the back part of the house, but presented 
 their whole frontage to the street. Many of the 
 shop tables, covered with marble, and not unfre- 
 quently fitted up with large earthen vessels for 
 the sale of wine, oil, etc., are still preserved. The 
 great number of these affords proof of the import- 
 ance of the retail trade at Pompeii. 
 
 Where there are no shops, the streets are very 
 monotonous. The absence of glass in the win- 
 dows forms one of the chief differences between 
 an ancient and a modern dwelling. The ancients 
 concentrated their domestic life in the interiors, 
 the houses presenting to the street a blank wall 
 with as few openings as possible, and these covered 
 with an iron grating. One of these gratings, the 
 only one I think left, is still to be seen. It was in 
 the second story. The dwelling houses vary 
 greatly in size, and have obviously been very dif- 
 ferently fitted up, in accordance with the nature 
 of the situation, or the means and tastes of the 
 owner. Most of the houses of the wealthy class 
 are entered from the street by a narrow passage, 
 which is surrounded by a covered one leading to 
 the court, with the reservoir for rain-water in the 
 center. The roof (I saw none) evidently sloped 
 inwards for the purpose of admitting light and 
 air to the court and adjoining rooms. On each 
 side and sometimes in front were the bedrooms. 
 
 lOI 
 
The front of the house was devoted to intercourse 
 with the external world, and it was here the boss 
 received his clients if a lawyer, his patients if a 
 doctor, and the merchant transacted business. The 
 center consisted of an open court or garden en- 
 closed by columns. Around were situated the .sleep- 
 ing and dining-rooms, the rooms for the slaves, 
 kitchen, cellar, &c. Most of the apartments were 
 very small, the family working and spending their 
 time in the light and airy courts. The wall deco- 
 rations in Pompeii lend it a peculiar charm. 
 Marble is rarely met with in domestic architec- 
 ture, and not often in the public works, the col- 
 umns being constructed of tuffstone, or bricks. 
 These bricks, like all the bricks of the ancients, 
 are about an inch thick, four inches wide and a 
 foot long. The walls and columns were then 
 covered with stucco and painted. The lower 
 halves are generally red, or yellow, the capitals 
 tastefully colored. The walls, where they are 
 undecorated, are painted with bright and almost 
 glaring colors, chiefly red and yellow, harmo- 
 nizing with the brilliancy of the southern sun. 
 The center of the walls is generally occupied by 
 a painting unconnected with the others. The 
 best have been removed to the Museum at Naples, 
 to protect them from the exposure to the weather. 
 The scenes present a soft, erotic character corres- 
 ponding to the peaceful and pleasure-seeking taste 
 of the age. I wished I had lived there. 
 
 I02 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 "Thou art the garden of the world, the home of all Art yields." 
 
 T^pr^JTE always traveled on Sunday, when the 
 \Md, rides were to be long ; not that we were 
 irreligious, (Mary is an Episcopalian, and I belong 
 to all the churches, including the Masons, Odd 
 Fellows, Knights of Pythias, Royal Arcanum and 
 some others,) but because the entrance fee to all 
 museums and galleries is abolished on that day, 
 so the poorest may enjoy their priceless treasures. 
 This gives rise to crowds, and is unpleasant when 
 you wish solitude to gaze upon and think over 
 relics and works of art. Another reason, it gave 
 us Monday to ride about, as that was "cleaning 
 day" after the crowd of visitors of the day before. 
 Leo has written an apotheosis of Florence, 
 which it would ill become me to attempt to im- 
 prove. He says : " . . . . Like a water lily, rising 
 on the mirror of the lake, so rests this lovely 
 ground, the still more lovely Florence, with its 
 everlasting works, and its inexhaustible riches. 
 From the bold, airy tower of the palace, rising 
 like a slender mast, to Brunelleschi's wondrous 
 
 103 
 
dome of the Cathedral ; from the old house of 
 the Spini, to the Pitti palace, the most imposing 
 the world has ever seen ; from the garden of the 
 Franciscan convent, to the beautiful environs of 
 the Casine, all are full of incomparable grace. 
 Each street of Florence contains a world of art : 
 the walls of the city are the calyx containing the 
 fairest flowers of the human mind — and this is 
 but the richest gem in the diadem with which 
 the Italian people have adorned the earth." 
 
 Dante Alighieri really made the place, by being 
 born here in 1265. You will remember he wrote 
 "The Divine Comedy" and founded the Italian 
 language ; this latter was the worst thing he did. 
 Boccaccio boarded in it, and a lot of other notables 
 in Florentine history. Among the most distin- 
 guished was the family of the Medici, whose bril- 
 liant court has never been equaled. The history 
 of Florence and Florentine art is one of greatest 
 interest, and should be studied by all who expect 
 to go there, if not as a part of a liberal education. 
 I cannot tell you all we saw. Read the following 
 books, and you will know what Florence holds, 
 gems that no other place on earth contains. 
 
 "Walks in Florence," by the Misses Horner. 
 "Tuscan Cities" and "A Florentine Mosaic," by 
 W. D. Howell's. Hare's "Florence." Ruskin's 
 "Mornings in Florence." "Romola," by George 
 Eliot. Mrs. Oliphant's "Makers of Florence." 
 "Echoes of Old Florence," by Leader Scott. "The 
 
 104 
 
First Two Centuries of Florence," by Professor 
 Pasquale Villare, and last but not least, "Baede- 
 ker's Northern Italy." 
 
 The Chief attractions are the Piazza della Sig- 
 noria, with the Palazzo Vecchio, where Savonarola 
 was burned, May 23rd, 1498, and the Loggia dei 
 Lanzi, the Galleria degli Uffizi, the Piazza dei 
 Duomo, with the Cathedral and Campinile, the 
 unrivalled work of Giotto, the Baptistery, and its 
 "Gates of Paradise," the churches of Carmine, 
 S. Cruce, in which are the tombs of Michael 
 Angelo and Galileo ; S. Lorenzo, S. Maria Novello, 
 Annuziata, S. Spirito, the Monastery of St. Marco, 
 where is the cell in which Savonarola lived. Then 
 the Pitti Palace and the Boboli Gardens, the 
 Academy and the National Museum, Dante's and 
 Galileo's and Michael Angelo's homes, a thousand 
 objects of interest, all ever new, all fraught with 
 beauty and pleasure. Florence is a quarry, from 
 which treasures may be dug such as the world 
 will never see again. To write about, or mention 
 one-tenth of all we saw, the beautiful frescoes, 
 the paintings, handiworks of the greatest geniuses 
 the world has produced, the stained glass in the 
 windows of the grand cathedrals and churches, 
 through which the Italian sun pours its beams 
 with a celestial glory, statuary, the buildings, 
 the everything that makes Florence what it is, 
 would, it seems to me, take a life-time. It can 
 only be appreciated by touching it. 
 
 105 
 
We were fortunate in having a letter of intro- 
 duction to an artist, a Cuban gentlemen, who had 
 resided in the city for many years. By his kind- 
 ness and thorough knowledge of all that was 
 worth seeing, we accomplished in our brief visit 
 more than we otherwise could have done in a 
 much longer stay. If one spot is to be selected 
 as containing the master pieces of ancient sculp- 
 ture and modern painting, it is the ''Tribuna" in 
 the Ufiizi Gallery. In the center are five cele- 
 brated marbles ; The Satyr, by Michael Angelo ; 
 a group of Wrestlers ; The Medici Venus, found 
 at Rome in 1680 ; The Grinder, whetting his knife 
 to slay Marsayas, also found at Rome in the i6th 
 century ; and an ApoUino, or young Apollo. 
 Paintings by the hands of Raphael, Titian, Paul 
 Veronese, Durer, Perigino, Michael Angelo and 
 others, are hung about the walls ; names that 
 have become as familiar as household words in 
 the world of art and beauty. In all the galleries, 
 artists, or students are at work, copying the great 
 productions of the masters. Some are so beauti- 
 fully done none but a connoisseur could dis- 
 cern between them and the original. These 
 copies may be bought at very reasonable prices. 
 All students of art are allowed to paint in the gal- 
 leries, after complying with certain prerequisites. 
 
 Of the city of which I should say much, I can 
 say but little. I have not the pen of a poet, nor 
 the descriptive power of an artist. "Beggar that 
 
 106 
 
I am, I am even poor in words," to tell of all we 
 saw and enjoyed in this delightftil spot. Memo- 
 ries of others may fade, but Florence is locked 
 within the strong towers of my heart. 
 
 Florence ranks with Rome, Naples and Venice 
 in its many attractions. Lying on both banks of 
 the Arno, it is "beautiful of situation and alto- 
 gether lovely." We left it with regret, I with 
 more than regret, for here I parted with the 
 "pretty sister," and have not received a letter, or 
 a photograph from her since. My wife has, but 
 in it the '"sister" makes no particular or special 
 mention of me, other than to say, to be remem- 
 bered. Thus another of my idols is shattered. 
 I'll look about, however, for a new one. I shall 
 call her Florence henceforth, for to my memory 
 she brings back so many pleasures and so much 
 of art. I have insinuated to Mary it would be 
 the proper thing to invite her to visit us, but she 
 doesn't enthuse much. I wonder why it is ? 
 
 107 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 VENICE. 
 "She that was fair, and never proud." 
 
 E made many stops at various places en 
 route between the Capitals, a history of 
 which is of no special interest to the reader of this 
 book. They were merely rests in our journey. 
 They contained much to excite our admiration 
 and added to our enjoyment. At Bologna, we 
 ran into an Embassy from Chili, South America. 
 The Valet to his Royal Nibs the Ambassador, had 
 become all mixed up with the guards of the train. 
 The trainmen could not speak Spanish, and the 
 Valet could not understand Italian. I straightened 
 out matters to the satisfaction of all, by my 
 knowledge of Castillian. Speaking of languages, 
 I was longing for the time when we should reacti 
 Germany, as I thought there I should be at home 
 as far as the lingo was concerned. I made a 
 slight mistake, or over-rated my abilities. I can 
 speak German, that is to a reasonable extent, or as 
 long as a native confines himself to an unabridged 
 dictionary, but when he hurls a university at me I 
 fail at times to comprehend his entire meaning. 
 German in Germany, is somewhat different from 
 
 io8 
 
the dialect spoken in the beer saloons of my town. 
 It runs together more and gets over the ground 
 faster. I always made them think I understood 
 them, and when Mary asked for a translation, I 
 told her what seemed best fitted to the circum- 
 stances. It did no harm and she was satisfied. 
 She is a great admirer of linguistic attainments 
 and wishes to take lessons of me. My rates, how- 
 ever, are too high. I have advised her to go to a 
 kindergarten, or she might visit the Professor. 
 The "sister" may visit me in her absence. 
 
 Venice has no trotting circuit. It is said there 
 is but a single horse in the livery, and that is 
 only shown on state occasions. It is a poor place 
 for bicycles, you are obliged to dismount so often, 
 Venice is a spot in which to love and linger. I 
 could have hugged a door post, if Mary would not 
 have been jealous. We arrived at 2:10 P. M., hav- 
 ing left Florence at 6:10 in the morning. We 
 were met at the station by a Gondola, (pronounced, 
 Gzindola, the accent on the Gun,) and taken to the 
 Grand Hotel by way of the Grand Canal. I might 
 say every thing was grand while we were here. 
 The sensations were novel, especially to Mary. 
 The gondola was a dwarfed approach to the ship, 
 only there was no smoke-room. We were asked 
 not to forget the poor gondolier ; we did not, we 
 gave him some of the chicken feed. Whenever 
 the gondola starts from a pier, or lands at a door- 
 step, a lot of beggars are around holding long 
 
 109 
 
poles with a hook on the end to steady the boat 
 when you get in, or disembark. It is their pro- 
 fession, and from the exercise of it they get money, 
 (enormous sums I presume,) and in the course of 
 time have enough to build a Palazzio. Land 
 must be cheap, as there is none. It is a queer 
 place, full of history, Byron and Browning. I 
 saw no Moors, no Desdemonas. Merchants more 
 than sufficient. They are the same rascals, almost 
 as bad as those at Gibraltar, and that is savin<y a 
 great deal. They never let you out after entering 
 their shops, and you can make the price before 
 leaving, they'll take it. I have perfect confidence 
 they would take anything — even a man's charac- 
 ter. One day I saw a pipe in a shop window 
 that caught my fancy, I went in to enquire the 
 price, which the salesman told me was seven dol- 
 lars. I offered him eighty cents and got the 
 pipe. This is what they consider good business. 
 The city is built chiefly on piles, being six and 
 a half miles in circumference, standing on 117 
 small islands formed by 150 canals, and con- 
 nected by 378 bridges. How's that ? Among the 
 houses and at what seems to be the rear, extends 
 a labyrinth of lanes paved with stone, brick, or 
 asphalt, and alive with picturesque and busy 
 throngs. It is possible to walk over the entire 
 city by means of these passages, some of which 
 are too narrow to be called even lanes. They 
 are simply cracks between the buildings. 
 
 no 
 
Our first ambition was to take a sail, or row, 
 or whatever you clioose to call it. You stand on 
 the steps of your residence and call out "Poppi." 
 A boat starts toward you at once. They are like 
 all you see in the picture books, some more ornate 
 than others, some open, some with little cabins or 
 canopies. The engines are different from those 
 you see in the Opera. They wear no gold belts, 
 or plumes, or velvet coats. Most are in their 
 shirt-sleeves, and the rest of their attire is third- 
 hand. They stand at the stern holding a long 
 oar, which is locked into the stump of an old tree, 
 (that is what it looks like.) If you want to waste 
 money, you may have two of these propellers, one 
 however, unless there is much wind, being suffi- 
 cient. These oarsmen are very expert, turning 
 corners and passing other craft so closely, it would 
 seem as if a sheet of writing paper could not be 
 placed between, yet they never foul, or meet with 
 any accident. The speed is ancient. So much 
 so, that steam propellers have been placed on the 
 streets (?) to enable men of business to reach their 
 offices sooner. This permits them to lie in bed 
 longer in the morning, a very wise and healthful 
 habit. It spoils the poetry of the scene, however. 
 Every day, almost every hour we sailed, for it was 
 the only way in which we could get about in com- 
 fort. Sometimes we walked through the lanes, 
 just to keep our legs in practice, but the going 
 over so many bridges was tiresome. You go up 
 
 III 
 
half a dozen stops, then over the platform, then 
 down. In about every forty feet you do the act 
 again. This goes on as long as you walk. 
 
 The center of attraction is the Piazza of St. 
 Mark. Here are the steps arranged along each 
 side, where all sorts of merchandise are sold 
 (generally yourself in the bargain) at the most 
 extravagant prices. Here you feed the pigeons 
 which swarm in thousands about you, alighting on 
 your head and shoulders, showing no fear. None 
 is allowed to be killed. They soil everything, 
 and were a nuisance, though a pretty sight. Ro- 
 mantic young people, newly wedded couples in 
 particular, are frequently photographed with the 
 doves clustering about them. It looks pretty, but 
 does not disclose their sweet relationships at home. 
 
 The church of St. Mark, the tutelary saint of 
 Venice, and whose bones are said to have been 
 brought here from Alexandria in 829, is the great 
 building. It is decorated with lavish and almost 
 Oriental magnificence. It is in the shape of a 
 Greek cross, covered with Byzantine domes in the 
 center and at the end of each arm, smaller ones 
 at other points. Externally and internally it is 
 adorned with 500 marble columns, mostly Orien- 
 tal, with capitals in an exuberant variety of styles. 
 The interior is profusely decorated with gilding, 
 bronze and Oriental marble. In front are the 
 four Horses, which probably once stood upon the 
 triumphal arch of Nero, and afterwards on that 
 
 112 
 
 al 
 
of Trajan at Rome. The}^ have traveled quite a 
 little, Constantine having sent them to Constanti- 
 nople, whence the Doge Dandolo brought them 
 to A/'enice. Napoleon took them to Paris, but 
 they were returned by Emperor Francis. The 
 mosaics, both on the exterior and in the interior, 
 are magnificent. 
 
 Opposite St. Marco is the Campanille. The 
 Clock Tower is on the opposite side. The Li- 
 brary building consists of a double colonnade of 
 arches and embedded columns. Farther on, are 
 the two granite pillars erected in i i8o. One bears 
 the Winged Lion of St. Mark, the other St. 
 Theodore on a crocodile. Between these two 
 columns, executions took place in the olden time. 
 
 The palace of the Doges, founded in 800, is a 
 remarkable building. It is decorated with foliage, 
 figures of men and animals. A richly ornamented 
 flight of stairs, called the Giants Staircase, (Scala dei 
 Giante) derives its name from the colossal statues 
 of Mars and Neptune at the top. These stairs 
 lead to the entrance of the Palace. The interior 
 of the palace is filled with paintings by Paul 
 Veronese, Titian, Tintoretto and others equall}^ 
 celebrated. On the end of one of the galleries, 
 is frescoed the largest painting in the world. It 
 is called Tintoretto's ^Paradise. The number of 
 figures is bewildering, many of the heads said to 
 be admirable portraits. Another picture of in- 
 terest is a "Last Judgment" by Pal ma Giovane 
 
 113 
 
with portraits of his wife in Heaven, Purgatory 
 and Hell. She may have deserved all three. The 
 Bridg-e of Sig:hs which connects the Palace of the 
 Doges with the Prison, is always regarded with 
 much sentiment. It is a waste of good material. 
 Howells says, "It has probably never been crossed 
 by any prisoner whose name is worth remem- 
 bering, or whose fate deserves our sympathy." 
 He never met me, I'm married. The Academy 
 is another fine structure. It contains much of 
 interest in the way of furniture, paintings and 
 sculptures. The Grand Canal is lined with 
 palaces and celebrated buildings, centuries old, 
 and innumerable churches dedicated to various 
 Saints all adorned with statuary, paintings, mo- 
 saics and works of art beyond compare. The 
 house occupied by Byron in 1818, the home of 
 Browning, and others of greater or less note. 
 The Rialto crosses it midway between the Custom 
 House and the railway station. It is flanked by 
 shops, and looks as it always appears in the pho- 
 tographs, Shakespeare speaks of the Rialto in 
 the Merchant of Venice, but it was not the bridge 
 to which he referred, but the district, as the 
 Rialto was the site of the ancient city of Venice. 
 Our evenings we would spend on the Piazza of 
 St. Mark, listening to the music, sitting at little 
 tables under the clear, full moon, which shone at 
 its brightest for us, drinking light wines, or eat- 
 ing ices, or we would sail along the canals, out to 
 
 114 
 
the Adriatic, too enraptured by the beauty around 
 us to talk. Everywhere, after the sun had gone 
 down, there was music. Gondola after gondola 
 passed to and fro, decked with colored lanterns, 
 the occupants singing, or playing on instruments, 
 the flute, the violin, or the guitar, all making merry 
 under the glorious light, a sort of Fairy land, a 
 living Opera, an ever-changing panorama, beau- 
 tiful beyond description. There came over us a 
 feeling, as if we could never break the silken 
 bands that held us here. 
 
 One afternoon we spent at Lido, half an hour 
 away by gondola. It is the watering place of 
 Venice, and from it may be obtained an excellent 
 view of the old town. The beach is fine, and 
 many were enjoying bathing in the surf. I saw 
 a number of Venetian belles indulging, and 
 wanted to go in so I might save their lives if they 
 went beyond their depth. Mary would not allow 
 me. She doesn't appear to realize my mission 
 is to save life. Like every other spot in Italy, 
 Lido has churches galore, belonging to the Saints, 
 filled with pictures and relics. We did not buy any. 
 
 While we were here an American Man of War 
 came into the harbor. I mxUSt say I felt my oats. 
 We met the commanding officer while we were 
 out for a walk, that is, in the way they walk in 
 Venice, sailing along in the ship's gig, manned by 
 hardy American Tars. Never to me did the flag 
 appear so beautiful, flying full length at the stern. 
 
 115 
 
I doffed my hat, Mary waved her handkerchief, 
 and the Officer who was accompanied by what 
 evidently was the American representative at 
 this post, returned the salute. I felt safer that 
 night, and proud. I could have thrashed the 
 whole blasted nation, Mary into the bargain, 
 though she is larger than I. At the Grand Hotel 
 where we had our rooms, we ate in what was said 
 to have been one of the apartments of Desde- 
 mona. Whether her bed-room, or parlor I know 
 not. It was very gaudy and as lonesome as any 
 such place in a foreign hotel. I often wished 
 Des was there. I could have got along without 
 Mary, for one meal at least. 
 
 As I was walking through the Grand Hallway 
 of the hotel one evening, I was suddenly brought 
 to a standstill by a slap on the back. 1 thought 
 it was Mary. Immediately after came the saluta- 
 tion "Hello, Doc !" I turned and found one of my 
 fellow pill-peddlers, much younger than I, once a 
 resident of my city. We revived old times and 
 absent friends at the proper counter, and resolved 
 to see each other later. We did, several times. 
 It only goes to show how well I am known all 
 over the world, or how small the earth is. 
 
 Of course Mary dragged me into all the lace 
 factories, paid double for little handkerchiefs, 
 with no spot on which to blow the nose, "showers," 
 not "blowers," bought a lot of dress-goods I could 
 have packed into my pockets, and which cost a 
 
 ii6 
 
small bank, and then gave them away on arrival 
 home. This is the penalty we men pay for what 
 is called "Love." It will be a dead loss to her if 
 she keeps on, as life insurance premiums will be 
 passed and policies will lapse. I only purchased 
 a few photographs and some bier. 
 
 117 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 MILAN. 
 "His neck erect amid his circling spires." 
 
 l^ ROM Venice we went to Milan. I wanted to 
 -i^ stop at Padua to get some fiddle-strings, and 
 at Verona to see the two gentlemen of whom 
 Shakespeare speaks, but Mary was opposed, so as 
 usual I let her have her way. The ride was full 
 of interest, of ever-changing scenes, all new and 
 of a character different from any we had thus far 
 seen. We were at the border of the Alps, at its 
 feet, and the contour of the country began to par- 
 take largely of mountainous formation. Thus far 
 we had enjoyed none but the finest weather, not 
 too hot, with a few days of rain, only mere 
 showers, just enough to lay the dust and cool the 
 atmosphere. The days seemed very long, not 
 tedious, as twilight lingered late into the night, 
 so that at ten o'clock it was bright enough to read 
 without the use of candles. It is certainly. not so 
 at home, and I shall ask the Professor the reason 
 when next we meet. Our hotel was in the Piazza 
 del Duomo, the focus of commercial and public 
 life. Here is the great Cathedral, the eighth 
 
 ii8 
 
wonder of the world, and the largest excepting 
 that at Sevilla, in Spain, and St. Peter's at Rome. 
 It is built entirely of marble, roof and all, and is 
 adorned with upwards of 4500 statues and 98 
 turrets. The stained glass windows in the Choir 
 are said to be the largest in existence. The dome 
 is 220 feet above the pavement, and the tower 360 
 feet above the ground. We took a long walk in 
 the evening, looking in at the shops and wishing 
 our letter of credit were heavier. In the morning 
 immediately after breakfast I went to the Cathe- 
 dral, intending to go to the top. Mary did not 
 care to undertake the lofty ascent of 194 steps in- 
 side, and 300 outside the edifice in order to reach 
 the summit. There was no "lift." I secured a 
 guide and went up. The view beggars descrip- 
 tion. To the left (S. W.) was Monte Viso, then 
 Mount Cenis, lower down the Superga near 
 Turin ; Mount Blanc, Great St. Bernard and 
 Monte Rosa ; then the Materhorn, then Cima de 
 Jazzi, Stalhorn and Mischabel. To the North- 
 west, Mount Leone, and the Bernese Alps. At the 
 North, the summits of St. Gotthard and Splugen. 
 In the East, the Ortler. South, the Certosa of 
 Pavia, in the back ground the Apennines. It was 
 a beautiful clear morning, and the sky without a 
 cloud. On the roof I met a family holding what 
 we call a pic-nic. The guide told me they were 
 there for the day, and that it was a frequent resort 
 (the roof) for such outings. The only real loss 
 
 119 
 
I sustained during my entire journey occurred 
 here. I lost one of my gold sleeve buttons some- 
 where in or on the church. Its disappearance was 
 not discovered until my return to the hotel. I 
 did not go back to look for it. Steps and Italian 
 robbers being too much in favor of my not seeing 
 it again. 
 
 The interior of the Cathedral is supported by 
 52 pillars, each 12 feet in diameter, adorned with 
 canopied niches with statues instead of capitals. 
 The pavement is of mosaic, in marble of different 
 colors. In the treasury is the mumified body of 
 St. Borromeo, dressed in his Bishop's robes. 
 It cost me a dollar, American money, to see 
 him. Milan has eighty churches, enough to 
 make the populace better than they are. Many 
 of these houses of worship are very cele- 
 brated. All are filled with the usual pictures 
 of Saints, Madonnas, Crucifixions, Resurrec- 
 tions, and what nots. Nearly all are of the 
 Catholic persuasion. Here, as elsewhere, the ar- 
 rangement for the stockholders differs from our 
 own, especially in the larger ones. There are no 
 pews, or cushioned seats, or foot-stools, or any such 
 conveniences for a nap during the service. 
 Benches or chairs which may be removed at will, 
 are placed in the main aisle. Often there are 
 none at all. You stand around, or kneel on the 
 bare floor. All the collections appear to be 
 wasted on ornamentation, or buying a picture, or 
 
 120 
 
statue of a new saint. I think it would be more 
 christian to pay the minister, and get comfortable 
 seats for the sinners. Everywhere about are lit- 
 tle altars, or stations, dedicated to some particular 
 Virgin, and at which service is held on cer- 
 tain hours, or days. You enter a church, walk 
 about, see the entire museum, while the religious 
 performance is going on at the same time at one 
 of these little altars. As a rule no admission fee 
 is charged. You give something in the shape of 
 money to some one anyhow, even if it is only to the 
 decrepit old woman, who holds back the heavy 
 leather curtain at the entrance, as there are no 
 doors. We went to lots of them and wasted our 
 liras. Perhaps I may see some benefit to Mary 
 after so much devotion. The period of incuba- 
 tion, however, is long. 
 
 One of the most interesting of the churches is 
 S. Maria delle Grazie, founded in the 15th century 
 and attributed to Bramante. It contains frescoes by 
 Ferrari, In the old monestary, is the famous 
 "Last Supper" by Leonardo da Vinci. This 
 painting is fast showing the ravages of time, and 
 is now nearly obliterated. It was painted in 1499. 
 Many copies of the original are in the same room, 
 made by celebrated artists, to facilitate the study 
 of the work. There are in the city many chari- 
 table institutions, museums, palaces, theaters, 
 gates and public works. 
 
 121 
 
La Scala Theater, built in 1778, after a design 
 of Piermarine, has the largest stage in the world, 
 and on it some of the greatest lyric artists have 
 made their debut. I went all over it, into the 
 boxes, royal and plebian ; into the seats, and re- 
 cited what I knew of the Declaration of Inde- 
 pendence on the stage. 
 
 The Galleria Vittorio Emanuel was directly 
 opposite our hotel. It is in the shape of a Latin 
 cross, covered with glass, and above the center a 
 cupola. It is the largest in the world and beauti- 
 fully decorated, filled with statuary, while all 
 about are shops for the wSale of everything, from a 
 toothpick to a shoe lace. It opens into the plaza 
 where La Scala is situated. Mary could not resist 
 temptation, so bought a watch that she might 
 know what time I recahed home when in Paris. 
 I see no other reason for the purchase. 
 
 The streets of Milan are built to be used. Most 
 of them have laid on either side near the sidewalk 
 two flag stones, two feet in breadth, and between 
 them small cobbles. This enables the vehicle to 
 run on a smooth surface, while the horse has a 
 firm foot-hold on the pathway in the center. Most 
 of the wagons are for single horses. I wrote 
 home to our Commissioners of Public Works, as 
 new pavement for our streets was to be put down, 
 giving them this idea (no charge), but they did 
 not take to it. They, like many others, have 
 
 122 
 
mucli to learn. Next door to our Hostlery was a 
 glove shop, with a pretty girl in attendance. I 
 told Mary I needed gloves. She said I had a 
 sufficient number of pairs in the bag. She, how- 
 ever, went in and let the darling squeeze her 
 hand and fit a pair. All I got out of it was the 
 bill. I am going to Europe alone next time. 
 
 As the King was to unveil a statue of Victor 
 Emanuel in the Piazza del Duomo, immediately 
 in front of the Cathedral and almost at our very 
 door, we decided to get away a day earlier 
 than anticipated, fearing the crowd and general 
 rumpus attendant on such an event. Then, too, 
 Mary might get lost. 
 
 The square had been fitted up for the Royal 
 Family with booths, seats, flags and other decora- 
 tions, suited to the occasion. We saw the monu- 
 ment as it was being covered with the white sail- 
 cloth, which was to be removed by the hand of 
 the ruling Monarch at the proper time. I thought 
 there were already a sufficient number of these 
 "Forget-me-nots" in the city, but they have a 
 mania, all over Europe, as soon as a man of any 
 distinction dies to honor his memory with a big 
 obelisk in some form. They have greatness 
 thrust upon the m^fter death, if they did not de- 
 serve it in life. I wonder if they know it, and 
 appreciate the devotion and how much it costs 
 in money, time and fuss? Fd like mine put up 
 
 123 
 
while I am alive. It would be more satisfactory. 
 Dr. Oliver Wendell Holmes says : 
 
 "Isn't it a pity, a fellow can't hear what is said 
 About a fellow, when a fellow's dead ?" 
 
 From some of the obituary notices I have read 
 of men I knew in life, I have been sorry I was not 
 aware how many virtues they possessed. They 
 write up as angels. I sometimes have a different 
 opinion, but never express it to the family of the 
 deceased. 
 
 The Cemetery is one of the most beautiful in 
 the world, almost as beautiful as the Campo Santo 
 at Genoa. It is filled with Mausoleums, of the 
 purest marble, and decorated by art in every 
 conceivable shape and manner. Statuary is not 
 so abundant as at Genoa, but the vaults are models 
 of the sculpture's genius. 
 
 124 
 
CHAPTER XIL 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 "Loveliest valley of the plain." 
 
 "p NEVER was greatly entranced by Natural 
 ^ Scenery. Perhaps the fact has been due to 
 the limited opportunities I have had of studying 
 it. I prefer Archaeology, Post-mortems, Coro- 
 ners' Inquests and Railroad Accidents. Mary 
 dotes on it. She spends half her time at home, 
 looking out the back windows into the gardens of 
 her neighbors, counting their chickens, and ash- 
 piles, or watching the Health Board wagon gather 
 up the refuse. Mary and I held a full hand, with 
 both bowers, in our ride from Milan to Lucerne. 
 I own up, much has been lost to me in not inves- 
 tigating the subject. I know a limited amount of 
 geology, and work now and then on the lawn, 
 when the coachman and gardener, my alter ego, 
 is otherwise em_ployed. I am careful not to do 
 too much, especially with the mower, as over-rest 
 in my alter ego's anatomical contrivance tends to 
 apoplexy. I hire him by the month, and want to 
 get full value. 
 
 We arrived at Lucerne in the evening, (7:30) 
 just as _the sun began to sink behind the great 
 
 125 
 
mountain tops, gilding the snow and ice upon the 
 great heights, making them look as if crowned 
 with o-old. I shall never foro^et that afternoon. 
 By means of an additional souvenir to the guard, 
 we secured an observation car. It consisted of 
 the same units as other cars, with the excep- 
 tion that on one side was a platform, three or four 
 feet wide, with a railing around, so that by step- 
 ping from the compartment you were on the main 
 deck and could look all about you. It gave a 
 larger horizon, and rested your legs. I must refer 
 you to some book of travel to describe the royal 
 magnificence of the scenery that greeted us as we 
 wended our way along the Alps to our destina- 
 tion. Great mountains on each side, here and 
 there a Pass, now over a running river, made 
 from the melted snows of far-off hills. The spot 
 where the gallant little band of Swiss held their 
 own with Spartan courage against the Austrians, 
 little huts and hamlets, gardens rich in every 
 kind of fruit and flower and herb, exhaling their 
 sweetness on the air. Now down into a valley, 
 then along the banks of a stream, then climbing 
 to a higher plain, all painted by the hand of na- 
 ture, more beautiful than the works of man, more 
 glorious than any art. As we rode on we would 
 catch sight of a little chapel, away up among the 
 fleecy clouds. After a few moments it was at our 
 side, and we could look within the doors ; then we 
 bade it farewell, as we looked down upon it deep 
 
 126 
 
in the valley beneath, we mounting upward and 
 onward. By the lakes of Como, Lugano and 
 Marjiore we sped, diamonds in an emerald setting, 
 sheets of water dotted here and there with vil- 
 lages at the feet of the great mountains, the 
 mountains holding them and the sweet waters, as 
 it were in the palms of their mighty hands. How 
 beautiful they were ! 
 
 We went through the great St. Gotthard tunnel, 
 nine and a half miles long and twenty-eight feet 
 wide and twenty-one feet high. It has a double 
 track, is pitch dark, and becomes filled with 
 smoke in the transit. There are lanterns on 
 either side, but they serve no useful purpose. All 
 the windows are ordered to be closed on entering 
 and the guard generally does it for you. I was 
 so interested in the scenery I forgot it. The 
 guard smelt the mistake, and came in and did it 
 for me, at the same time calling the windows bad 
 names, and using language I presumed was in- 
 tended for the benefit of the tunnel. That is 
 what I supposed he was saying from the excited 
 manner of his tongue. 
 
 We passed through many Swiss villages, stop- 
 ping now and then for refreshments, or to add 
 another locomotive as the ascent grew more and 
 more abrupt. At Fluelen we took the boat and 
 sailed the entire length of the lake of the Four 
 Cantons, often called Lake Lucerne. Just before 
 reaching Fluelen we stopped at Altdorf, which 
 
 127 
 
figures so conspicuously in the story of William 
 Tell. Here Gessler ruled, and here the famous 
 cross-bow man's arrow pierced the apple with a 
 well-directed aim. A fountain now stands where 
 the boy was bound. As we sailed onward to our 
 destination, we passed or landed at many places 
 of historic interest. Tell's Chapel was one of 
 them. Here Tell escaped from the boat in which 
 Gessler was carrying him to prison. 
 
 Then came Sisikon, then Bruneen. Beneath 
 the Crags at our left is the Rutli, the most sacred 
 spot in Switzerland. Here on the 7th of Novem- 
 ber, 1307, was formed the league against the ty- 
 rannous rule of Austria. It is a national place of 
 pilgrimage, and is much frequented by societies 
 and schools. At this point a crowd of children came 
 aboard with their teachers, evidently a Sunday 
 School excursion. They sang the entire way to 
 Lucerne. The tune they seemed most to enjoy 
 was what we call "America." I did not know 
 the words, or what they were singing about, but 
 joined in and helped out the chorus. They clus- 
 tered about me as soon as they heard me singing, 
 and I told them how I had a Sunday School Class 
 at home in far off America, and lots of other things 
 they did not understand, to match the conundrums 
 their teachers gave them, and which wise adults 
 cannot solve. Treib came next, with its old 
 wooden inn, near to which is a pyramidal rock 85 
 feet in height, known as the "Mythenstein." It 
 
 128 
 
bears an inscription in honor of Schiller. In 
 rapid succession are seen Gersau, Beckenreid, 
 Bouchs, Vitznau, Weggis and at last Lucerne. 
 
 The steamers are much like those on the 
 Thames, The captain was a big fellow, with 
 more abdomen than anything else. His uniform 
 outshone that of an American Admiral, and his 
 voice sounded like a clap of thunder, as he shout- 
 ed some unintellible gibberish down the tubes to 
 the engineer. They do not use bells to communi- 
 cate with the engine room, but yell out what is 
 wanted. I could have understood the language 
 of bells much better. The steering wheel lies 
 flat, that is with its edge to the sides of the boat, 
 not the plane of its greater surface toward the 
 rail as with us. Two, or three men work at 
 it. I enquired why they had it so, and received 
 for an answer "they always had it so," They 
 expect to change soon. It was the same on the 
 Rhine boats. 
 
 It is of no earthly use to try to impart by words 
 even a part of the beauty through which we pass- 
 ed this day. I could not, if I knew how. Many 
 have attempted to do it. I have read their glow- 
 ing descriptions, but they sound as idle tales. 
 How great, sometimes, is the poverty of language. 
 We met in our car during the journey a most in- 
 telligent English lady who had been a resident 
 in and about this part of Lombardy, and Switzer- 
 land for many years. Her explanations and 
 
 129 
 
knowledge added much to our enjoyment. I 
 only wish I could see a way to thank her in this 
 book. We did not offer her money as she was 
 "to the manor born." 
 
 Lucerne is situated in the heart of Switzer- 
 land, and is the point to which all who travel con- 
 verge. Once it was not as now. In the early 
 days, when mountains, rivers and lakes were re- 
 garded with feelings of terror, a little assemblage 
 of fishermen's huts stood on the banks of the 
 Reuss. Its first important event was the founding 
 of the convent of St. Leodegar about the year 
 735 whence the name of Lucerne is said to 
 have been derived. When the peasantry in i 332 
 concluded the alliance out of which grew the 
 Swiss Republic, its history was that of Lucerne. 
 At the time of the Reformation, it remained true 
 to the faith of its fathers, and still maintains its 
 reputation as one of the strongholds of the Catholic 
 faith in Switzerland. Its situation is wonderfully 
 picturesque. On one side stands Rigi, on the 
 other Pilatus, and between them the gleaming 
 expanse of the Lake of the Four Cantons, with 
 the snow range of the Alps beyond. 
 
 Our hotel, "The Beau-Rivage," was admirably 
 situated on the border of the lake, Rigi, before us, 
 Pilatus at our right. In front was the Quai Na- 
 tional and a summer garden, where each after- 
 noon an orchestra played, the music of which 
 could be plainly heard in our apartments. It was 
 
 130 
 
a most excellent hotel, and I advise any who visit 
 Lucerne to take their body and traps there. Here, 
 as elsewhere among the Alps, is much to cause 
 wonderment and surprise. It would be impossible 
 for me to enumerate every place and spot of in- 
 terest. There is the Post and Telegraph building, 
 a fine edifice. The Hofkirche of St. Leodegar, is 
 the principal church in the city. You enter it by 
 a long flight of stone steps. It is full of history. 
 The Choir stalls are beautifully carved, the 
 wrought iron screens and baptistery being 
 works of consummate art. On the side altar, 
 are wood carvings dating back to the 15th 
 century. Then a magnificent organ, which I 
 had the pleasure of hearing, more by accident 
 han by design. I am told it has 90 registers, 
 and the Vox-humana and Vox-angelica enchant 
 every lover of music. Concerts are given 
 here every evening of the week. Behind the 
 church is the ancient grave yard, surrounded by 
 an arcade. To the North, in a romantic nook is 
 the "Lion of Lucerne," sculptured by Ahorn, in 
 1 82 1, after a model of Thorwaldsen, cut in the 
 solid rock. In speaking to my son-in-law regar- 
 ing it, he asked "out of what else could they have 
 cut it?" He is in the rubber manufacturing 
 business. Desiring to compliment him I sug- 
 gested, had he been on earth, they might have 
 made it out of some of his stock. He replied, 
 he made "rubber to sell, not to last." They were 
 
 131 
 
wise to have it made early. Had he been in the 
 world he might have taken the contract for the 
 job, and where would it have been now? About 
 the monument we read the simple legend, 
 "■Helvitioruin fidei ac vh'tiitc,'' together with the 
 names of fallen officers. It is commemorative of 
 the struggle with the French, Aug. loth and 
 Sept. 2nd and 3rd, 1792. Close to the monument 
 stands the Chapelle Expiatoire bearing the in- 
 scription '"Invictus Pax." In the Museum, I saw 
 many relics of the Lake Dwellers, their cloth, 
 food, implements of art, war and industry, all la- 
 den with thought to those who are interested 
 in the evolution of man. Beyond is the Glacier 
 Garden, discovered by accident in 1872. Here 
 are the "pot-holes" made by the waters of the 
 glacier ages ago. Over the river Reuss is the 
 old roofed wooden bridge the "Kapellbrucke," 
 dating from 1333. It reminds one of the time 
 when the town did not possess a single house of 
 stone. That was, when Lucerne was known 
 under the sobriquet of "the wooden stork's nest." 
 In the one hundred and twenty-one triangular 
 paintings, placed at regular intervals beneath the 
 roof, the old Lucerners have celebrated the heroic 
 deeds of the old Switzers, and the sufferings of 
 their patron saints. 
 
 The Water Tower stands near. It is the re- 
 mains of what was a part of the fortifications in 
 the first half of the 13th century. 
 
 132 
 
The Spreuerbrucke, or Muhlenbrucke resembles 
 the Kapellbrucke in being built entirely of wood, 
 and roofed with the same material. It is not so 
 old by a century. It contains an interesting series 
 of paintings by Casper Meglinger, dating from 
 the 1 6th century, representing the "Dance of 
 Death." There is a fine fountain nearby, called 
 the "Fountain of the Weinmarkt." On the sum- 
 mit is a statue of St. Maurice, armed cap-a-pie, 
 one of the finest ancient monumental fountains in 
 Switzerland. Then the old Rathaus, the Musegg, 
 the new Christ Church, built by the old Catholics 
 of Lucerne, but in which the American Episcopal 
 Church services are held. 
 
 The evenings here are like those in Naples and 
 Venice, soft and pleasant. The leaves of the 
 chestnut trees rustle in the breeze that sweeps 
 gently over the rippling waters of the lake, and 
 the peaks of the lofty snow-capped mountains 
 flash and redden as though they were no longer 
 cold, but glowing with an internal fire. The up- 
 lands seem all ablaze, while the shadows of even- 
 ing are falling on the valleys. Softly swelling 
 and dying gently away, the sweet tones of the 
 vesper-bells are heard through the stillness of the 
 night. Among the foliage of the trees, the elec- 
 tric lights flash, and on the lake the gondolas with 
 their colored lanterns glide hither and thither, and 
 the songs of their happy occupants are heard 
 across the now dusky waters. "The Naples of 
 
 133 
 
Switzerland" is a title Lucerne well deserves. 
 Could I compress into a single sentence all the 
 exclamations and all the thoughts uttered in the 
 divers languages, it should certainly be this: 
 How lovely is the earth, and how glorious is life. 
 
 One evening I had retired earlier than usual, 
 tired by my walks and drives during the day, 
 when Mary awoke me by calling out, "quick, 
 quick !" I jumped out of Bed, not knowing what 
 had happened, or v/as about to take place. She 
 simply said, "look, it is the largest comet I have 
 ever seen." I looked. It was nothing more than 
 a search-light on the top of Mount Rigi. I told 
 her so, at the same time giving her miy idea of 
 her attainments in astronomy. She let me sleep 
 after that. 
 
 We had intended to make some of the ascents, 
 as it could be done easily by means of the cable 
 cars. The day set apart for it proved hazy, 
 threatening rain, so instead we paid our bill and 
 turned our faces toward Munich. 
 
 134 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 MUNICH. 
 "Here's to good old beer, drink her down." 
 
 ^f^N this ride we made our only mistake of travel. 
 ^^^ We bought tickets for Munich, with privi- 
 lege to stop over at Zurich. This I wished to do, 
 as here it had been my intention to attend school, 
 had not the Rebellion and the consequent pre- 
 mium on gold, put an end to such possibilities. 
 It rained hard, so we gave it up, keeping on until 
 we reached Romanshorn. When you buy a 
 ticket in Europe, you are supposed to know when, 
 and where to get out, and when, and where to 
 change cars. We supposed we did. When we 
 reached Romanshorn, we noticed most of the pas- 
 sengers left the car in which we were. We sat 
 still, like "innocents abroad." Soon the guard 
 came in to pick up in the way of valuables what- 
 ever might have been left by the forgetful pas- 
 sengers. I thought it a good time to begin the 
 practical application of my knowledge of German. 
 It was well I did. I asked if this was the train to 
 Munich, and if we should remain seated. My 
 want of a complete knowledge of the language 
 prevents my repeating the entire conversation, 
 
 135 
 
but I understood he regarded us as escaped luna- 
 tics, and that if we did not "get up and git," we 
 would spend the day in a spot not down in our 
 itinerary. We got, (recht schnell) out into the 
 pouring rain and into the proper Zug, and were 
 hardly seated when the train moved on. A ride 
 of an hour and a half brought us to Constance, on 
 the border of a lake of the same name, over which 
 we sailed to Lindau, where we again took the 
 cars, reaching Munich at 7:28 P. M, As we were 
 alighting from our carriage at the hotel, I was 
 surprised and must say gratified, by the proprietor 
 meeting us at the door of the coach. He grasped 
 my hand and said in the best of English, "Dr. 
 Filler, I am glad to see you." This was unex- 
 pected. I did not know my reputation had gone 
 on ahead of my body. When I spoke to Mary 
 about this remarkable notoriety, she said, "that's 
 easily understood, he saw your name on the 
 trunk." Thus one by one she breaks my idols. 
 She is a regular iconoclast. I never think myself 
 way up in "G," but she pulls the foundations 
 from under, and I fall to her level. 
 
 When I got aboard of the boat at Constance, I 
 roamed about to take in the machinery, look over 
 the officers and see if a smoke-room was aboard, 
 in order to insure a feeling of safety. During one 
 of these pilgrimages, I thought to take a smoke. 
 Accordingly I pulled out a cigarette and proceeded 
 to hunt for a match. I found one and only one in 
 
 136 
 
my safe. I struck it, but a gust of wind quickly 
 extinguished it. I used some polyglot in the 
 English tongue, when a young gentleman stand- 
 ing near seeing my misfortune offered me another. 
 I found he was an American, that is, one from 
 Canada. Any one of the breed is acceptable at 
 such a time and place. We at once struck up an 
 acquaintance, and together traveled to Munich. 
 He was a bright and most gentlemanly fellow, 
 and we enjoyed his company. At one of the 
 stations en route, we saw upon the platform a 
 young lady waving an American flag, evidently 
 to attract the attention of some expected friend. 
 I wanted to be her friend, she was so pretty, and 
 consequently took off my hat, waved my hand, 
 and when Mary was not looking threw her a kiss. 
 Our new acquaintance joined in the salutations 
 for, he said, he was an "American in feeling and 
 had great respect for the flag." 
 
 We were now traveling second-class (except on 
 steamers, when we went first,) and found the 
 compartments and service as good as first in Italy. 
 During this ride, from Lucerne to Constance, we 
 had as fellow-passengers a young woman and her 
 little daughter, a child of some five years of 
 age. I struck up a speaking acquaintance by 
 petting the baby. It is a good way I find to reach 
 a mother's heart. She gave me an Edelweiss, an 
 Alpine rose, and traded a mark for one of our 
 American silver quarters. Her husband, she 
 
 137 
 
said, was a petty officer in the army, and her 
 brother a collector of coins. So am I, but not 
 an officer, only a private in Mary's company. I 
 am however, a numismatist, and accept with 
 thanks any offering- to my collection. 
 
 As I had rested all day in the train I went out 
 in the evening with my new friend. Mary was 
 tired. In fact it was better for her to keep quiet, 
 and as a physician I advised her to do so. We 
 had a good time viewing the city by gas-light as 
 we could not during the day. We ran into some 
 very good things, ending in the Concert Hall of 
 the Lowenbrau-Keller, where a good band de- 
 lighted our ears, pretty girls served the bier and 
 sold ornamented postal cards which would have 
 made Anthony Comstock blush. I had heard 
 much of Munich bier and longed to sample it, I 
 did, and long. We returned to the hotel before 
 morning. Munich is the capitol of Bavaria, and 
 has a lunatic for a king. It is built of bier, in 
 fact, everything from houses to clothing has some 
 of the article in their composition. They eat, 
 drink, talk, smoke, do everything in bier. Brew- 
 eries are everywhere. It was founded by Henry 
 the Lion. It is difficult to tell what we did not 
 visit. Among the many we did see (always hav- 
 ing a guide,) were the monument of King Max 
 Joseph, the Alte Residenz, built in 1596, with its 
 four courts, one of which contains "Duke Christo- 
 pher's Stone," the others filled with jewels, paint- 
 
 138 
 
ings and articles of virtu ; the Festsaalbau ; the 
 Konigsbau, built in imitation of the Pitti Palace 
 at Florence, and where in apartments on the 
 ground floor are the magnificent Nibelungen 
 Frescoes by Schnorr begun in 1861. the Aller- 
 heiligen Hofkirche, or All Saints' church with its 
 windows so concealed, as to cause the light to en- 
 ter in a very effective manner ; the Hof-und Na- 
 tional Theatre ; the Royal coach houses, and 
 harness rooms. Among the most interesting ob- 
 jects in these latter are the state coaches and 
 sleighs of Elector Max Emmanual, (1679); the 
 carriage of Elector Charles Albert (1726), and the 
 state carriages and sledges of King Lewis 2nd. 
 The Hofgarten, the Musem of Plaster Casts, and 
 the Ethnographical Museum. 
 
 The handsomest street is Ludwig-Strasse, origi- 
 nated by King Lewis ist. Here are the Feld- 
 herrnhalle, the Church of the Theatines, erected 
 in 1662, the Palace of Duke Max, the War Office 
 and Kaulbad Museum, the Royal Library, Lud- 
 wigskirche, the Blind Asylum, the University, 
 and last, as a fitting termination, the Siegesthor, 
 or Gate of Victory. The Academy of Art is at 
 the left. Maximilian Strasse is another beauti- 
 ful way. Here is the Mint, the Government 
 Buildings, the Bavarian National Museum, the 
 statues of General Deroy, Schiling, and Fraun- 
 hofer, the optician. There is an elegant monu- 
 ment to King Maximilian 2nd, and a building 
 
 139 
 
(Maximilianeum) founded by him for the instruc- 
 tion of students, who have shown an unusual 
 aptitude for the civil service. There is also a 
 statue of Elector Maximilian ist, and palaces with- 
 out number. Among them that of Count Arco- 
 Zinneberg-, and the Red Wittelsbach. In the 
 Carolinen-Platz rises an Obelisk, 105 feet in height, 
 cast from metal of captured guns, erected by 
 Lewis ist to the memory of 30,000 Bavarians 
 who perished in the Russian War. 
 
 In one of the palaces, I have forgotten which, 
 is a Throne Room. The Throne is guarded by a 
 circle of ropes that it may not be defiled by the 
 common people. That was not I. So I dodged 
 under the protecting fence and sat on the Throne 
 of Bavaria, I held the job only a short time, but 
 it served to show an American could fill it. I could 
 have run the whole country with a little help from 
 Mary, and there would have been "a hot time in 
 the old town that night." As I say, I did not 
 keep m}^ place very long. I wanted to run for 
 office at home in the fall. One thing interested 
 Mary. It was a bed-quilt which had taken forty 
 women ten years to embroider. I thought it had 
 been a waste of time, that might better have 
 been spent in bringing up a family. 
 
 Of the collections of paintings, the Lotzbeck 
 may be mentioned, but the finer is in the Old 
 Pinakothek, which contains upwards of 1400 pic- 
 tures, arranged in periods and schools. Every 
 
 140 
 
known painter and sculptor of world renown 
 seems to be represented here. It is magnificent. 
 The New Pinakothek, contains a wonderful col- 
 lection of porcelains and paintings, though this 
 latter is insignificant as compared to that in the 
 old. The Glyptothek, is devoted almost entirely 
 to ancient sculpture. The handsome Konigsplatz, 
 is terminated by the Propylasa, a magnificent 
 gateway with Doric columns outside, and Ionic 
 within. The Schack gallery is comparatively of 
 no great moment. It was bequeathed by Count 
 Adolf von Schack to the city. There are many 
 other churches, museums and places of interest, 
 too numerous for me to mention. Two I must 
 speak of, Bavaria, and the Hall of Fame. It 
 stands outside of the city about a mile and a half 
 from the business center. It is a statue of Bava- 
 ria in bronze, 62 feet to the top of the wreath 
 which the figure holds aloft. You may mount to 
 the top, as I did. It resembles somewhat our 
 statue of Liberty in the Harbor of New York. 
 The other-master-piece, is the Hoffbrauhaus- 
 Krug, or Royal Brewery. Jos. Wittman, Wirts- 
 chaftsfuhrer, is the title of the owner, or bar-ten- 
 der, I don't know which. It is on my bier-card, at 
 any rate. Here I drank the best liquid bread I 
 ever tasted, cooled down in the deep cellars, and 
 frothing by natural methods, not by injected car- 
 bonic acid gas, and as pure as baking powder. 
 It is entirely under government control, as 
 
 141 
 
are all the others. The bier is of a deep brown 
 color, and only two cents a litre, (over a quart) 
 too cheap not to have in the house, or to allow 
 any one to starve. The brewery and saloon 
 looked centuries old, black and dingy. It is built 
 of stone, and in the center is a court paved v\^ith 
 cobble stones. Here and there are barrels set on 
 end to serve as tables, while around the sides are 
 rough boards and seats to act the same role. 
 Within are benches. Near to the center where 
 the vStaff of life is sold, is an immense tank with 
 a supply of running water. When you vdsh a 
 loaf, you take down a Stein, wash it in the tank, 
 so if it is not clean it is your fault, not theirs. 
 Then walk without fear to the executive station, 
 pay your Pfennigs and get your meal. After I 
 had been there several times, I bought my mug 
 and brought it home as evidence I had had enough 
 to eat. It is one of my choicest treasures. I took 
 the guide out one day to fill him up. I didn't do 
 it, it almost w^orked the other way. We had a 
 boss time, vs^ith no "don'ts." Mary was tired, so 
 kindly remained at the hotel for a nap. 
 
 We did the town, including a show of Wax 
 Works, in which an American lady took the part 
 of snake-charmer. She had beautiful snakes, and 
 was of fine figure. She out-stripped any snake- 
 charmer I ever saw. I was glad Mary was at the 
 hotel. Falling into conversation with her, she said 
 she resided, when at home, on Second Avenue, 
 
 142 
 
near Fourteentli street. I told her I v/ould call. 
 She has not as yet informed me of her arrival, nor 
 sent me her card. She is probably meeting with 
 too much histrionic success to leave. I bought a 
 lot of bier mugs as remembrances to my intem- 
 perate friends, and sent them home by express. 
 I am sorry I did not wait until I landed in New 
 York, as I could have purchased those manufac- 
 tured in Ohio at a less price. They were too ex- 
 pensive for me to keep, so gave them to the 
 above, as I said. 
 
 While here Grand Opera was being given in the 
 Royal Opera House. We took it in, Tannhauser. 
 The Munichiners were trying to outdo the per- 
 formances at Beyreuth, and I guess they did. It 
 was great, especially the ballet. I took more inter- 
 est in that than in the music, it was more anatomi- 
 cal. Mary insisted on having a box on so grand an 
 occasion, and I lost so much in liquid bread. 
 Women have no idea of economy, or of the real 
 needful things in life. She drinks Chablis, and 
 likes it. We had some washing done here. We 
 had it done before, I mean of soiled clothing. 
 They do it in great shape and cheaply. You 
 make out your list, tell them when you want it, 
 and the duds come up in immaculate whiteness. 
 This is one advantage of living abroad. They 
 have other improvements over our methods of 
 doing things. After entering the carriage on our 
 arrival, having first paid the entrance fee to the 
 
 143 
 
city, (no one gets in free, unless he has a pass, or 
 is in with the gang) Mary asked if I had the um- 
 brellas. I told her "no," and she commented on 
 the fact, romanced on carelessness, forgetfulness, 
 and advancing age, winding up by saying, "we 
 shall never see them again." I might mention 
 here, that it was her place to look after them, not 
 mine, I had enough to do, looking after myself. I 
 got out of the carriage and had a talk with the 
 driver. He said, "come along, I guess we may find 
 them." We went first to see if the train had pulled 
 out of the yard. We found it had. He then took 
 me into a little room, where on a rack I saw my 
 lost goods, neatly wrapped up and labeled. I iden- 
 tified them, gave the fellow in charge a mark and 
 returned to Mary to blast her with the result. 
 It had not been five minutes since we left the 
 train till I had them in hand. They had been 
 gathered in by the guard, labeled with the num- 
 ber of the train, class, compartment, and a lot of 
 other signs for identification. I'd like to see 
 such a thing occur on an American railroad. The 
 umbrellas are now safe at home. They are old 
 and travel-worn, so we only use them on rainy 
 days. One of the benefits Mary derived from her 
 visit to Germany, was to find out that the word 
 "lager" does not mean bier. She has found that it 
 means a storage house. Now, since my return, I 
 often go out to find a bread-lager, or a shoe-lager, 
 or a lager alone. I tell you a tour in foreign 
 lands is a great educator. It has been to Mary. 
 
 144 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 (sl©*^^ day we started for Vienna was remark- 
 •^ able for several reasons. It was a delightful 
 Sunday morning-, and the ride full of enjoyable 
 views. Then it was my birthday, and last, I had 
 a row with the Custom Officers. I may say in 
 the beginning, I do not like the Austrians, Why, 
 I cannot exactly tell, but they do not impress me 
 as being truly religious. They boss a fellow too 
 much, just as Mary does. I was anxious to see 
 Vienna, and its renowned hospitals, for here 
 Bilroth, one of the world's great surgeons, had 
 held his clinic, and I had read much concerning 
 his work. We found there was no change of cars, 
 but a Custom House was to be passed. We took 
 an observation car, and charged up the extra ex- 
 pense to coming patients. At Salzburg, on the 
 border of the Austrian Empire, our baggage was 
 inspected but, for what reason, I cannot tell. We 
 had already been through so many Customs, and 
 all seemed so farcical, this time I made up my 
 mind not to bother personally about it. At Ven- 
 ice we were searched for sausages, they thinking 
 we had our trunk stuffed with them from Bologna, 
 
 145 
 
and at Munich, for chickens brought from, I know 
 not where, I gave the guard a florin and my 
 keys, telling him to see me through. He took 
 both. I remained seated in our compartment, 
 supposing all was being done secundem artem. 
 By accident, I happened to look out of the window 
 and spied our trunk. They were going through 
 it in a shape that excited m}^ suspicions. I sup- 
 posed the guard would see the Inspector, and the 
 trunk would not be opened. It was his duty to do 
 so, after getting that florin. I got out of the car, 
 p. d. q., rushed into the Custom Room, and gave 
 the guard my opinion of his executive ability. I 
 got the affair settled by the payment of another 
 florin, and entered the train as it began to m.ove. 
 I think there is such a think as being too con- 
 scientious. 
 
 Here everything German on the train changed 
 and came under Austrian control. It was no im- 
 provement, at least I thought not after my experi- 
 ence. Salzburg had a lot to do in the time of the 
 Reformation, burning heretics and such little 
 matters. It wouldn't hurt it to do it over. They 
 need reformation, and I am not so sure but a good 
 roasting would be of benefit, anyway to the 
 guards, and the Custom House officials. 
 
 We arrived at Linz soon after noon. Here I 
 celebrated by birthday — not exactly in the man- 
 ner I wished, but the best I could under the cir- 
 cumstances. I treated myself to bier, sausages, 
 
 146 
 
brown bread, and more bier. The latter made 
 me feel like another fellow, so I took a drink with 
 him. Mary decided not to join me, preferring to 
 wait until we reached our destination, where, she 
 said, she would "make me set it up for her," 
 She did. 
 
 Vienna, or in German, Wien, is the capital of 
 the Austrian Empire and is the grandest city, 
 architecturally, I have ever seen. I doubt if there 
 is a more beautiful one in this respect in the 
 world. It is divided into the old and new Stadt. 
 In the Ringstrasse are the Imperial residences, 
 the houses of many of the nobility, the leading 
 churches, museums, galleries, the Bourse, the 
 Oriental museum, the University, the Rathhaus, 
 with a tower, 320 feet high, the Court Theater, 
 the splendid Houses of Parliament, the Palace of 
 Justice, the twin Imperial Museums, the Imperial 
 Opera House, the fittings of which are most 
 sumptuous, without and within ; the Commercial 
 Academy, the Palace of Archduke William, the 
 Austrian Museum, of Art and Industry, and the 
 School for Art Industry. There are, moreover, 
 medical colleges, hospitals, and extensive gardens. 
 In architectural magnificence, it is not surpassed 
 by any street in Europe. 
 
 Public Monuments are in the greatest profusion 
 about the city. The most striking of which are, 
 the equestrian statues of Joseph II. and that 
 of Archduke Charles, Prince Eugene, and 
 
 147 
 
Francis I. In the middle of the Graben is the 
 Dreifaltigkeitssaule (Trinity Column), erected by- 
 Emperor Leopold I. It was constructed in 1682 
 in memory of the Pest, and is often called the 
 "Pestsaule." The crowning work of all is the 
 grand Maria Theresa monument. To describe 
 it would take pages of this book. There are 
 those to Beethoven, Haydn, Gluck, Schiller and 
 others, all of the greatest magnificence. Of the 
 many fountains, the finest is that by Schwan- 
 thaler, representing Austria with the four rivers, 
 Danube, Elbe, Vistula and Po. 
 
 Of the churches, St. Stephens is one of the 
 noblest in Europe. The tower is 449 feet in 
 height. The Capuchin church, contains the Im- 
 perial Sepulchre. Here the remains of the 
 Imperial Family, from Emperor Mathias (1630) 
 and his consort Anna (1619) down to our days, lie 
 buried in one hundred and twelve coffins. We 
 saw them all, and placed our hands upon those 
 which contained the mouldering bones of Em- 
 perors and Kings. It now contains the bodies of 
 eleven Emperors, fifteen Empresses, one King, 
 two Queens, thirty Archdukes, fifty Archduch- 
 esses, two Dukes and two Princes. It also con- 
 tains the hearts of Empress Claudia Filicitas, and 
 Empress Amelia, the heart of Queen Maria Anna 
 of Portugal, whose body is buried at the Theres- 
 ian Nuns in Lisbon, and the intestines of Arch- 
 duchess Henrietta. 
 
 148 
 
They have queer customs as to burial of Royalty. 
 As a rule the intestines of those buried in the 
 sepulchre, are deposited in the Old Princes Crypt 
 before the High Altar at St. Stephens, while their 
 hearts repose at the Loretto Chapel of the Im- 
 perial Parochial Church of St. Augustine. Among 
 the metal coffins here placed is many a pre- 
 cious work of art. One is the gigantic coffin 
 of Empress Maria Theressa and her consort Em- 
 peror Francis. Pope Pius VI visited the sepulchre 
 in 1783, and Napoleon descended into the graves 
 of the Hapsburg dynasty. Touched by the sad 
 spectacle of earthly transientness, he is said to 
 have exclaimed, "Vanitas Vanitatum — hors la 
 force." It is a solemn place. After life's fitful 
 fever, here sleep those who have ruled empires by 
 a nod, and shattered thrones by a word. They 
 sleep, their burdens for a pillow, the same un- 
 broken slumber which shall come to all. I could 
 not but think of the emptiness of all earthly glory 
 and honor, and made up my mind to have a good 
 time here on earth, as I should be along time dead. 
 
 Of the modern churches, the Lazaristenkirche, 
 (the Votive church) erected in commemoration 
 of the Emperor's escape from assassination, the 
 Altlerchenfeld church, St. John's and the Byzan- 
 tian Synagogue are worth a visit. The Hofburg 
 or Imperial Palace, occupied from the 13th cen- 
 tury contains the royal treasury. Tickets must 
 be obtained the day before in order to visit it. 
 
 149 
 
Here, always under guard, are the Regalia and 
 Sacred Relics of the Holy Roman Empire (Ger- 
 man Nation). Among them, are the Imperial 
 Crown of pure gold, with polished uncut precious 
 stones, the Imperial Orb of unpolished gold, the 
 swords of Charlemagne, St. Maurice and the Im- 
 perial Sword of Ceremony, the Book of the Holy 
 Gospels, upon which the Emperor takes the oath 
 before coronation. This last is said to have been 
 found on the knees of Charlemagne, when his 
 tomb at Aix-la-Chapelle was opened by order of 
 Emperor Otto. The leaves are of violet parch- 
 ment, the writing in gold. In another case are 
 the Coronation Mantle, the Alba, a Coronation 
 Garment like a surplice, and other robes, em- 
 broidered in gold, and adorned with precious 
 stones. Here is the lance of St. Maurice, with a 
 nail of the Holy Cross set into its body, a piece of 
 the Holy Cross, only surpassed in size by that 
 preserved at Rome, a piece of the Holy Table 
 Cloth, which decked the table at the Last Supper, 
 a piece of the Holy Apron used by Christ when 
 washing the feet of His disciples, a fragment 
 from the Manger in which Christ was born, a bone 
 of the arm of St. Anne, mother of the Virgin 
 Mary, three links of the chain which bound the 
 Apostles Peter, Paul and John, a fragment of the 
 garment of St. John the Evangelist, a tooth 
 (molar) of St John the Baptist, a Reliquary contain- 
 ing earth saturated with the blood of the Martyr 
 
 150 
 
Stephen, and the famous necklace of Marie An- 
 toinette, upon which Dumas founded his cele. 
 brated novel. Beside all these are sceptres, 
 staves of office, orbs, wands, robes and banners, 
 all mag-nificent. Then there are crosses, civil and 
 military, and orders of the Golden Fleece, and 
 others, each masses of diamonds, rubies, emer- 
 alds, and precious gems. There are Imperial 
 crowns, knots and buttons of brilliants, ornaments, 
 neck-laces, fans and bracelets of untold value. 
 The great Florentine Diamond is here, one of the 
 largest in the world, being exceeded in size by- 
 four others only, weighing 133^ Vienna carats. 
 There is a golden rose from the Pope, the 
 Imperial Baptismal Vessels and Christening 
 Robes, with a host of other treasures that one 
 must see to form an idea of what royal grandeur 
 is. For the truth of the holy relics I cannot 
 vouch. The other traps look as if they were genu- 
 ine. I give them to you as we saw them. What 
 more can you ask ? The finest piece of sculpture in 
 Vienna, we saw in the Church of St. Augustines. 
 It is the tomb of Archduchess Maria Christina, 
 executed by Canova. 
 
 The Prater is the finest of all the parks. It was 
 the site of the Great Exhibition in 1873. Near 
 the entrance stands the monument of Tegellhoff, 
 an Austrian naval officer of distinction. The 
 Volksgarten is another beautiful park. In it is 
 the Temple of Theseus, modeled after that at 
 
 151 
 
Athens, containing Canova's marble group of 
 Theseus and Minotaur. The Stadtpark, with its 
 elegant Cursalon is another, being a favorite rest- 
 ing place on summer evenings. I hardly know 
 how to cease recounting all the wonders and treas- 
 ures we savi^ in this charming city. As I have said 
 before of these wonderful capitals, one must see in 
 order to learn all they contain. Words are fail- 
 ures to describe. 
 
 A curious little thing is, the "Stock-im-Eisen" 
 in the corner of the Equitable Life Insur- 
 ance building. It is the trunk of a tree, cov- 
 ered by the heads of so many nails driven into 
 it that no particle of the wood can be seen. Ac- 
 cording to one tradition the Vienna Forest ex- 
 tended in olden times to this very spot, and this 
 was a Holy Tree which used to be beset with 
 nails on solemn occasions. Another saying is, 
 that the iron ring which encircles the trunk, and 
 bears the date of 1575, and the initials of "H. B.," 
 and the lock supposed to be inextricable, were 
 made by one Martin Mux, and the nails have been 
 driven into the tree by young locksmiths when 
 they started on their travels from Vienna. 
 
 During my stay, I visited many of the hospitals, 
 saw some operations, and tried to bring home in 
 my brain a few of the microbes of greatness and 
 knowledge. Perhaps I have. My observations 
 in all the hospitals of Europe, (Italy, Germany, 
 Belgium, France and England) is, that ours in 
 
 152 
 
America are much better fitted up. As to prac- 
 tice we are their equals, if not superiors. Material 
 is greater with them, by reason of population. I 
 saw in Vienna some cases of fracture put up in 
 a way that would in America bring a suit for mal- 
 practice. Many of their methods are ancient, if 
 not crude ; still they do good work, and add much 
 to the knowledge of the sciences. The advance 
 of science here is largely in the care of the govern- 
 ment. The scientist is helped by the Crown, 
 and he has no fear his family will starve while he 
 is delving into the unknown. In America, and I 
 m.ay say in England, nothing is done by national 
 aid to help discovery on these lines. A few indi- 
 viduals have given generously of their wealth to 
 aid the car of progress on its march. That is all 
 that has been done. He who would work out some 
 of the great problems of life, must do it by his own 
 hand, and at his own risk. No help is given him 
 until he discovers something out of which money 
 may be made. Experimental science is hooted at 
 and the investigator called a fool. Science for 
 the sake of Science, for the betterment of man- 
 kind, must take care of itself. It is a pity what I 
 say is true. When the English speaking nations 
 shall awake to a full appreciation of the value 
 of Biology, Sanitation, Medicine and Surgery, 
 upon the welfare, life and happiness of the people, 
 something will be done. I, however, fear the 
 time is a long way off. Mary is doing something 
 
 153 
 
at it, by holding the office of President of a Fe- 
 male Suffrage Club. From her wild talk, I am 
 sure it is on the track of something that is to 
 advance everything. If it finds it, there will be 
 a scientific revolution, and we shall have things 
 as they should be, so she says. She tells me she 
 has some ideas. For my part, I know she has. I 
 think them erroneous however. 
 
 I expected to drink the best coffee in Holland, 
 as her colonies are supposed to produce the finest 
 brands. I was mistaken. Vienna knows how to 
 make it, the best I have ever drunk. Mary has 
 never tasted coffee, so her opinion on the subject 
 is of no value. She sticks to tea and other herbs. 
 Since coming to Europe she has acquired a habit 
 for Rhine wines and Chianti. Next she'll take to 
 bier, and I shall be the only temperance person in 
 the family. She need not preach W. C. T. U, 
 after all I've seen. I have been graduated, 
 
 Vienna rolls are no different from any others I 
 have seen or eaten. Perhaps they originated 
 here, hence the name. They are no improve- 
 ment over the old-fashioned biscuit, and twice as 
 difficult to masticate. The water is abundant and 
 delicious, the finest we tasted in our travels. 
 
 154 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 ZT was so cool the evening- we arrived in Dres- 
 den, the capital of Saxony, we wore wraps, 
 though it was July. We had taken the precau- 
 tion to secure an observation car, so we might see 
 something of the out-door life of Germany. Mary 
 slept most of the way, now and then waking up 
 to say "don't," as she cares little for out-door 
 work, or in-door either. The motion of the cars 
 soothes her. Germany is a fine country, abound- 
 ing in beet fields, from which the sugar used 
 over nearly all of Europe is obtained. This vari- 
 ety is not so sweet as that made from the 
 cane, but the difference is hardly appreciable. It 
 is cut into small blocks, an inch long, half an inch 
 broad, and a quarter of an inch thick. 
 
 Dresden is tame architecturally, after Vienna. 
 It has been aptly called the "German Florence," 
 by reason of the magnificence collection of pic- 
 tures in the Royal Gallery. After the usual drive 
 in the morning, visiting fountains, monuments, 
 parks, gardens and terraces, we made haste to 
 see the pictures and interiors of churches, palaces 
 and shops. Mary is always losing something. 
 
 155 
 
Here she lost her eye-glass hook. Ten cents pur- 
 chased one good enough for some one else to find. 
 vShe still has it for a wonder and a remembrance. 
 There are many old and interesting bridges, es- 
 pecially the Marienbrucke, and the Albertsbrucke. 
 Several of the chief attractions are situated close 
 to the old bridge. The Bruhl Terrace is one. 
 Originally laid out in 1738, as a garden, by Count 
 Bruhl, it is now a favorite promenade. It is ap- 
 proached from the Schloss-Platz, by a broad flight 
 of stairs adorned with gilded groups of "Night, 
 Morning, Noon and Evening," cut in sand-stone 
 by Schilling. At one side are the Bruhl Palace, 
 and the Academy of Art. Then is seen the statue 
 of Semper, and the Rielschel monument, also by 
 Schilling. The Albertum, originally the Arsenal, 
 is now a gallery of Sculptures and Casts. Beyond 
 is the Maurice monument to the memory of the 
 Elector of that name, who fell in battle 1553. 
 Near by are the Law Courts, the Church of St. 
 John, and the Schilling museum. The Roman 
 Catholic Court Church is opposite the old bridge, 
 and is adorned with seventy-eight statues of 
 saints, on the parapets and at the entrance. The 
 Tower is 280 feet high. Beneath the sacristy are 
 the royal burial vaults. 
 
 The Royal Palace, founded 1534, is an extensive 
 edifice, filled with beautiful frescoes. Before it 
 rises the loftiest tower in Dresden, 331 feet high. 
 In the palace is the Green Vault, containing one 
 
 156 
 
of the most valuable existing collections of curi- 
 osities, jewels, trinkets, and small works of art, 
 dating from the late Renaissance and Rococo eras. 
 The cabinet of coins, in which I was much inter- 
 ested, is particularly rich in choice specimens. In 
 the Theatre-Platz, is the fine equestrian statue 
 of King John. The Hof-Theater, one of the finest 
 in Europe, is lavishly decorated with paintings, 
 and statuary. Among the statues are those of 
 Goethe, Schiller, and Moliere, figures of Sophocles, 
 Euripides, Shakespeare and others. The museum 
 forms a wing of the Zwinger, erected in 171 1. It 
 and the museum contain the most important of 
 the Dresden collections. The Picture Gallery in 
 the museum now ranks with the Louvre, Pitti, 
 and Uf&zi, as one of the finest in the world, and 
 all the great masters of the Golden Period of 
 statuary and art, are admirably represented. 
 Here I saw what to me was the most beautiful 
 painting in the world, The Sistine Madonna of 
 Raphael. In the words of another, it is one "in 
 which the most tender beauty is coupled with the 
 charm of the mysterious vision, forcibly striking 
 every susceptible beholder, and the longer he 
 gazes, the more enthusiastic will be his delight." 
 The picture is the only one in the room, the light 
 coming in so as to illuminate that most beautiful 
 face, and the entire painting in a glorious halo. 
 You sit at the end of the room opposite the paint- 
 ing, about twenty feet away. No one speaks, 
 
 157 
 
every voice is hushed before this master-piece of 
 art. I wish I were able to tell how it impressed 
 me. I have seen thousands of others, gems from 
 the hands of the greatest painters, never one like 
 this. I went back to the room again, and again, 
 so fascinated was I, and as I looked upon it for 
 the last time I gave a sigh of relief, as the strain 
 upon me relaxed. Ask any one who has seen it. 
 They will tell you the same story. Besides the 
 paintings are tapestries, engravings, and every- 
 thing beautiful in art. 
 
 Opposite the Zwinger, is the Prinzen Palace 
 erected in 171 5, the residence of Prince Frederick 
 Augustus. Here also is the Sophienkirche, or Pro- 
 testant Court Church. Near by is St. George's 
 Fountain. Behind the Imperial Post Office is the 
 Industrial Museum, containing furniture, bronzes, 
 and pottery. In the Neumarkt, rises the Frauen- 
 kirche, erected in 1 726, with a lofty dome 310 feet in 
 height. In the Platz in front, is the Luther monu- 
 ment, a bronze cast from his original statue for the 
 monument at Worms. A cross in the pavement 
 near by, marks the spot where Crell, the Cal- 
 vanistic Chancellor was executed in 1601. On the 
 same square is the museum Johaneum, now con- 
 taining the Historical museum, and collections of 
 Porcelain. There are many other statues, and 
 fountains, and public buildings. The old Palace 
 Chapel, of 1555, the house of Carl Maria von 
 Weber, the composer, the statue of Frederick 
 
 158 
 
II, a figure of Germania, in Carrara marble, to the 
 memory of tlie war of 1870, on tlie pedestal of 
 which are allegorical figures of Peace, National 
 Defence, Science, and Enthusiasm. The Kreuz- 
 kirche, with its tovN^er 312 feet in height, attracts 
 attention ; likewise the Goose Stealer Fountain, 
 the English church, with wonderfully beautiful 
 stained-glass windows. 
 
 In the Neustadt, is the equestrian statue of 
 Augustus II, "The Strong," as he was called, 
 over life-size, erected in 1736, also the Japanese 
 Palace, built in 171 5, and named after the Japan- 
 ese porcelain formerly preserved here. It is now 
 the Royal Library. The Gardens are many, of 
 which the Grosse Garten, Botanical and Zoological 
 are the most deserving of notice. The Ceme- 
 teries have obelisks and contain the remains of 
 many noted in art, war and theology. Dresden 
 at one time was celebrated for the manufacture 
 of porcelain, or as we call it, china. To a certain 
 extent it still maintains its old reputation. We 
 thought of buying a dinner service, but found the 
 pieces could be broken as easily as those costing 
 a dollar a dozen, instead of one hundred a plate. 
 This in part led us to give up the idea. Mary 
 says she would like to live in Dresden, "it is so 
 peaceful." I wish she would. I prefer Munich, 
 or Paris. There is more going on in them. 
 
 159 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 BERLIN, POTSDAM, AND SANS SOUCI. 
 
 itlLW'NTER den Linden," Berlin, and Sans Souci, 
 ■^^ liad been familiar words since childhood. 
 As our letter of credit was not exhausted, we felt 
 the inhabitants would rejoice to see us. We went 
 in, and struck Fourth of July. We registered at 
 the Grand Hotel de Rome, on "Unter den Linden," 
 near to Friedrichstrasse. I have described in 
 other chapters the places we visited more fully 
 than I intended when I began writing, so hence- 
 forth shall try to keep within bounds, asking 
 the reader to look up points that may interest him 
 in better and more fully descriptive books than 
 this. 
 
 We had been expecting letters from home at 
 each resting place, and thought we should surely 
 find them here. We were again disappointed. 
 Subsequently we discovered they had been written, 
 but either traveled too slowly for us, or else some 
 other distinguished Americans received them. I 
 have always been suspicious they contained bills 
 from my creditors, and that my son worked in 
 with the Postal Officials at New York, and blocked 
 the game. He always does right by his father. I 
 
 1 60 
 
have had him under the ''X" rays, and find his 
 liver and heart are like his mother's, but his 
 brain and feet are like his father's. 
 
 The morning after our arrival, Mary broke down 
 the elevator so effectually it did not run for two 
 days. It may have been accident, but Mary and 
 broken "lifts" are too common to be coincidences. 
 As it happened on the glorious Fourth, she has 
 always claimed the accident (?) occurred to cele- 
 brate the day. She l^ad Fourth of July in 
 several places, if this was the case. The weather 
 was cold and threatened rain. In fact it was more 
 so, and more of it than anywhere else. No letters 
 and rain made us home-sick, and we wished our- 
 selves at home in our own Palazzio Damfino, 
 many times. 
 
 When you leave a train on entering Berlin, 
 you see a policeman posted at the point of egress. 
 He hands you a metal ticket with the number 
 of a cab, the traveler having stated which class 
 he desires. You give the medal to a porter, who 
 will summon the proper vehicle, and see that your 
 traps are put in. Of course you give both a 
 remembrance. 
 
 Berlin is magnificent with its palaces, churches, 
 and memorial buildings. *'Unter den Linden" is 
 the handsomest and busiest part of the city, 
 flanked by magnificent palaces, spacious hotels, and 
 attractive shops. It is about a mile in length, 
 from the Brandenburg Gate to the Royal Palace, 
 
 i6i 
 
and 196 feet wide. Through the center runs a 
 double row of linden and chestnut trees, making 
 an avenue between. At one end is the Palace 
 Gate with its eight groups of statuary, at the other 
 the stately portal of the Brandenburg Gate, sur- 
 mounted by a colossal chariot of Victory. The 
 street reminds one of the boulevards of Paris. 
 
 At the east end rises the statue of Frederick the 
 Great in bronze, probably the grandest monu- 
 ment of its kind in Europe. Near the statue is 
 the palace of the Emperor William I. Opposite 
 the palace is the Academy building ; then comes 
 the University, the garden of which is adorned 
 with statues of William and Alexander Von 
 Humboldt. The Royal Library is behind the 
 palace of William I. The motto beneath the cor- 
 nice, ^'■mit^-ijnentum spiritus,'' was selected by the 
 Great Frederick. Here are the first impressions 
 of Luther's translation of the Bible, Melanchton's 
 report of the Diet of Worms, Gutenberg's Bible 
 of 1450 on parchment, the first book printed with 
 movable type, and many interesting manu- 
 scripts. On the other side of the street is the 
 Opera House, with groups of statuary pertaining 
 to the Drama. Statues stand before the doors in 
 the square. The Kaiservase, a huge vase with 
 allegorical figures, is between the Library 
 and Opera House. It was presented to Emperor 
 William I, on his 90th birthday, by the Empress 
 Augusta. Behind is the church of St. Hedwig, 
 
 162 
 
an imitation of the Pantheon at Rome. Then 
 there are the Royal Guard House, Singing Acad- 
 emy, and the Arsenal. This latter contains a mili- 
 tary museum and the "Hall of Fame." I was 
 greatly interested in the collection of weapons, 
 especially the cannon, mediaeval and modern, 
 many having been captured in the Franco-Prus- 
 sian war, and bearing marked evidence of having 
 taken part in battle. Among the number was one 
 of American manufacture, a mitrailleuse. 
 
 The Hall of Glory contains statuary, paintings 
 and frescoes upon the walls, illustrative of the 
 progress of the German Empire. In a line with 
 the prolongation of the Linden is the Schloss- 
 Brucke. It is adorned with eight groups in 
 marble, over life-size, illustrating the life of a 
 warrior. To the right beyond the bridge, is the 
 equestrian statue of Frederick William III, 20 
 feet in height. The pedestal has allegorical 
 figures at the front. A little way farther on is a 
 huge granite basin, said to weigh 75 tons, hewn 
 out of solid rock. It is 22 feet in diameter. The 
 Royal Palace was erected in 1443, by Elector 
 Frederick II. It has been much altered since its 
 beginning, and is still unfinished. At the portal 
 is the statue of the Horse Tamers, in bronze, pre- 
 sented by Emperor Nicolas of Russia. In the 
 first court is a bronze group of St. George, and 
 the Dragon. The building contains 700 apart- 
 ments, also a large number of portraits of the 
 
 163 
 
Royal Family, ball rooms, picture galleries and 
 statuary. In going through one of the apart- 
 ments, I think it is the grand ball-room, the visi- 
 tor is obliged to put on slippers made of felt. 
 You do not pick oi^t your size, but take them as 
 handed to you. They are all large enough. I 
 got Mary's. In them you shuffle, (you cannot 
 walk) over the polished floor. I think this is 
 done for two reasons. First, that you may not 
 scratch the floor, the surface of which is like a mir- 
 ror, and second, that you may help by your mode of 
 movement, to enhance its lustre. It is a great 
 game, and helps out the lazy janitor. I enjoyed 
 it, as it was a real Yankee idea. There are an Old 
 and New Museum, both filled with objects of 
 great interest, sculptures, paintings, antiquities, 
 coins, casts, etc. Their importance consists in 
 the representation of the most varied styles, and 
 epochs, rather than in the possession of master- 
 pieces by great artists. Near the New Museum, 
 in the center of the square, surrounded by Doric 
 colonnades,3and embellished with statues, flower- 
 beds and fountains, is the National Gallery. It 
 is filled with statuary and paintings. 
 
 Friedrich Strasse, was nearly opposite our 
 Hotel. It is one of the chief thoroughfares, filled 
 with life and bustle. I found in it a good place 
 for bier but did not tell Mary. I went there often 
 to acquire more fluency in the German language, 
 and fluidity of German food. It was always a 
 
 164 
 
good starting- place when I wished to go anywhere. 
 It is the longest street in town. A little way from 
 this street is the Gendarmen-Markt. In the center, 
 now called the Schiller-Platz, are the Schauspiel- 
 Haus, (Theatre), the French church, the New 
 Church, and several handsome private residences 
 of the last century, forming the finest architectural 
 group in Berlin. In front of the Theater, (Schaus- 
 piel-Haus) stands the monument to Schiller, in mar- 
 ble, 19 feet high, Wilhelm Strasse, is considered 
 the most aristocratic quarter of the city. Here 
 reside the Royal Ministers, Princes, the Chancel- 
 lor, and other high toned people. In the Wilhelms- 
 Platz, are flower-beds, with statues of six heroes of 
 the three Silesian wars of Frederick the Great. 
 Here also is the Palace of Prince Frederick Leo- 
 pold, the Kaiser-Hof, the church of the Trinity, and 
 the Imperial Treasury. In the Leipzerger Strasse 
 is the Concert Haus, the Equitable and the New 
 York Life Insurance buildings, the General Post- 
 office, Post-office Museum and War-office, the Hall 
 of the Imperial Diet, and near at hand other 
 buildings pertaining to the management of the 
 government. In the Belle-Alliance-Platz is the 
 Column of Peace, 60 feet high, erected to com- 
 memorate the 25th anniversary of the Peace of 
 181 5, the Royal Porcelain Factory, the Monument 
 of Victory, and the Mausoleum, where Queen 
 Louise, and her husband, Frederick William 
 III, repose. In the city are many other noted 
 
 165 
 
churches, schools, museums, exchanges, markets, 
 theaters, parks, and palaces, too numerous to 
 mention. We could not see them all in our 
 brief stay, but we got over a great deal of ground. 
 I have spoken in detail more than I expected. I 
 trust it has not proved wearisome. 
 
 Soldiers are everywhere in Berlin. In fact you 
 see them at all times, and in all places throughout 
 Germany, and a fine lot of fellows they are. They 
 march with a peculiar (to me) step, called ''the 
 Goose Step." The foot comes down flat upon the 
 ground, after the thigh has been thrown forward 
 at right angles to the body, and the whole leg 
 pushed forward. In my experience in war and 
 married life, I have seen nothing like it. Around 
 "Unter den Linden," and within the circle of 
 trees is a path, in which I saw the Cavalry man- 
 oeuvering. Whether the path is for this sole pur- 
 pose, I do not know. It appears so at any rate. I 
 went to see the soldiers at the gymnasium, exer- 
 cising before the drill began, and afterwards saw 
 them going through all sorts of military tactics 
 which made me think the Emperor had a fine 
 corps of men, and that some nations would better 
 go slowly before challenging them to fight. 
 
 On Sunday, we went to the great Fair just out- 
 side of the city. It was not a National one, but 
 limited to the industries of Berlin itself. The 
 buildings were large and attractive, a "World's 
 (Chicago) Fair" in miniature. The displays were 
 
 1 66 
 
lavish, comprising every art, and manufacture, on 
 exhibition and for sale. There were also the 
 usual outside temptations, streets of Cairo, amuse- 
 ment halls, all that goes to make up such a spec- 
 tacle. A large crowd was there, though it 
 rained in torrents and was cold. I took 
 precautions against the entrance of microbes, 
 Mary took cold. It was a just punishment for 
 breaking the Sabbath, and the effects kept her 
 in bed for two days. I urged her not to go, but 
 she persisted, saying she had reasons for not 
 remaining at the hotel. I have always thought 
 she suspected I had an engagement with some 
 young lady. This condition of Mary, the broken 
 elevator, and no letters from home, made her 
 visit at Berlin rather doleful. We celebrated 
 the Glorious Day without fire-crackers, but drank 
 to the healths of President Cleveland and the 
 Kaiser. I saw one United States flag flying over 
 a hotel on "Unter den Linden" where many 
 Americans were staying. This is all the cele- 
 bration we had. 
 
 Mary being better by Tuesday under my treat- 
 ment (for which she never paid me), we went 
 over to Potsdam, taking a train to the town, then a 
 carriage and a guide. Potsdam is located 1 6 miles 
 from Berlin, and is called the "Versailles of Prus- 
 sia." While driving about, we met the royal car- 
 riage, containing the only daughter of the Em- 
 peror, with her maids of honor. At another time 
 
 167 
 
we ran across the Emperor's brother-in-law. I 
 have forgotten his name. We did not recognize 
 them, as we were too busy looking at other 
 curiosities, and I had to keep an eye on Mary, 
 fearing a sudden return of her cold. The Emperor 
 was at home, but by some mistake had not 
 received our cards or invited us to call. I harbor 
 no ill-will. 
 
 Passing through the Brandenburg Gate, erected 
 in the form of a Roman triumphal arch, with an 
 allegorical fountain group of five figures near it, 
 we entered the Park of Sans Souci. At this 
 entrance is the Friedenskirche, or Church of 
 Peace, the favorite building of Frederick William 
 IV. A broad flight of steps ascends to the Palace. 
 On the last terrace, Frederick the Great's grey- 
 hounds are buried. The king expressed a wish 
 to be buried at the foot of the statue of Flora, 
 which stands at this point. ("Quand je serai la je 
 serai sans souci"). 
 
 The Palace of Sans Souci is of one story, 
 erected in 1745, and was Frederick's almost con- 
 stant residence till death. His rooms are pre- 
 served nearly unaltered, and the main interest of 
 the palace consists in the numerous reminiscences 
 it contains of its illustrious founder. Among the 
 treasures shown are, the clock he was in the habit 
 of winding, and which is said to have stopped at 
 the exact moment of his death, 2:20 a. m., August 
 17th, 1786, the chair in which he died, his spinet, 
 
 168 
 
together with his portrait, the only likeness for 
 which he ever sat, taken in his 56th year. The 
 room in which Frederick William IV died (kept 
 unaltered) with that occupied by Voltaire may be 
 visited. Pictures and busts are on every hand. 
 The picture gallery itself contained little of 
 interest. 
 
 On the way to the Orangery, we passed the 
 famous windmill, which the owner is said to have 
 refused to sell to Frederick. It is now however 
 royal property. The Orangery contains a large 
 number of paintings, mostly copies, and some 
 statues, as Ceres, Flora, and a copy of the Farnese 
 Bull. There are two ancient sarcophagi, used as 
 troughs, near the steps, as you go down into the 
 garden. The gardens about the palace are kept in 
 the most careful manner, and are filled with vines, 
 flowers, and fountains. I walked through them, 
 but as it promised to be fatiguing to Mary, 
 she remained in the carriage, meeting me at the 
 other end. I was not alone however. Two pretty 
 girls wished to place themselves under my care 
 and you can wager I took care of them. We were 
 some time in going through. A mile at least from 
 the Orangery, is the New Palace, now the summer 
 residence of the present Emperor. We did not 
 stop. Returning to the town, where many army 
 officers reside, we visited all places of interest. I 
 remember a large iron gate, at the top of a ter- 
 race, which the guide told me had been opened 
 
 169 
 
but once, which was when Napoleon passed 
 through. I do not call to mind just where it was 
 situated, but think it was one of the entrances to 
 the park. In the Lustgarten are bronze busts of 
 York, Blucher, and twelve other celebrated per- 
 sonages, not of much interest, at least to me. 
 
 The Royal Palace contains many remembrances 
 of Frederick. His flute, music-stand, ink-stand, 
 autograph notes, traveling cup, the apartments of 
 Frederick William I, and a few pictures painted 
 by that Monarch, "in tormentis," that is, during 
 an attack of gout. Of course there is much else 
 to please, and charmi the eye. Near by is the lime 
 tree, now protected by an iron covering, under 
 which petitioners gathered so as to attract the at- 
 tention of Frederick in order to present their 
 grievances. Here is the marble Mausoleum of 
 "Unser Fritz," guarded by a soldier at the door. 
 You are requested not to speak, while within, as 
 silence seems to make the spot more sacred. 
 
 The Church of St. Nicholas is near. The 
 Rathhaus, built in 1754, the gable of which is 
 adorned with a gilded figure of Atlas bearing the 
 globe. The Obelisk in front, 75 feet in height, is 
 embellished with medallions of the Great Elector, 
 and the first three kings of Prussia. Adjoining 
 is the Barberini Palace, erected by Frederick in 
 imitation of that at Rome. The hall is used for 
 scientific and other societies. A vault under the 
 pulpit of the Garrison church, contains the remains 
 
 170 
 
of Frederick the Great, and of liis father, Fred- 
 erick William I, founder of the church. I stood 
 by the coffin of the King and Elector, on the spot 
 where Napoleon stood, and where he is said to 
 have uttered these words : "If you had been 
 living, I would not have been here." I plucked a 
 leaf from the wreath which is daily placed upon the 
 coffin, and have it among the memorabilia of my 
 travels. As if in keeping with the great soldier, 
 there are many flags about the entrance of the 
 tomb, flags captured in the memorable days of 
 1813-1815. After all "the path of glory leads but 
 to the grave." There were other places of interest 
 we failed to visit for want of time, much to our 
 regret, as for instance Babelsburg. We returned 
 to Berlin late in the evening. 
 
 Before I close this chapter, I cannot help speak- 
 ing once more of the palace of the old Emperor 
 William, grandfather of the present sovereign. 
 An old Vy^oman was in attendance who had been a 
 body servant of the old monarch. She was very 
 kind, showing us many treasures of the old war- 
 rior, we might not have seen otherwise. His 
 chair, his pen, his books, his private apartments, 
 nearly everything which added to the enjoyment 
 of his last days here in Berlin. 
 
 171 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. HEIDELBERG. MAYENCE. 
 
 ZT was a long ride, of more than twelve hours to 
 Frankfort. A mistake was made in not cut- 
 ting it in half, and stopping over night at Leipsic. 
 I'll do it another time. Mary had fine innings 
 at "don't," slept a good deal, ate at every station, 
 while I smoked and looked out of the car window 
 over the country. I thought of buying a farm. 
 Mary was really ill, her cold still quite severe. 
 These foreign microbes are more tenacious than 
 ours. I had brought with me a supply of medi- 
 cine to use as occasion required, and gave Mary a 
 sample of all I had. I was bound to fetch her or 
 the microbes. She was much improved when we 
 reached Mayence. 
 
 Frankfort-on-the-Main, is a delightful little 
 city. Though our stay was brief, we took in all 
 points worth seeing. The chief v/ere the Stadt 
 Art Gallery, the Ariadneum, containing Dan- 
 necker's master piece of "Ariadne," the Palm 
 Garden, the Kaisersaal in the town hall, with its 
 portraits of German Emperors, the house where 
 Goethe was born, the Schawnthalers monument 
 
 172 
 
to the poet, the monument to Gutenberg and 
 Schiler, the old Bridge with its diabolical legend, 
 the statue to Charlemagne, and the Cathedral. 
 
 Over the main entrance of a house (Swan Hotel) 
 opposite our hotel, was a tablet stating, "Here on 
 the loth of May 1871, the treaty of peace between 
 Germany and France was signed by Bismark and 
 Jules Fevre." There are many gardens and foun- 
 tains scattered through the city, which Mary 
 wished to visit but was too ill to gad much, so I 
 took a day off, and ran down to Heidelberg. I 
 could in this way see some new things, have a 
 time with the boys, and miss some hundred thous- 
 and "don'ts." 
 
 I bought a "Rundreise," or excursion ticket, as 
 it saved a few marks for bier. I did this on the 
 advice of my son-in-law, who had lived in Germany 
 several years . I often v/ished for him, as he always 
 helps "Pop" to have a good time. I met in my 
 compartm.ent going thither a young minister and 
 his pretty wife. Episcopalians and from America. 
 Of course I was in it. Unmarried, pious and an 
 Episcopalian. We talked and talked, that is the 
 pretty wife and I. As for the Dominie, I allowed 
 him to read the newspapers, as it kept his eyes from 
 us. I got off at Darmstadt, long enough to see the 
 War Alonument, but nothing else. A friend had 
 given me before leaving home a card of introduc- 
 tion to an intimate acquaintance in this burg, but 
 through some misfortune I lost it, and not remem- 
 
 173 
 
bering the name or address, missed a good oppor- 
 tunity, for I wanted to see the Library, and Pic- 
 ture Gallery, and in the palace of Prince Charles 
 the famous Madonna with the family of Burgo- 
 master Meyer. You can't have your own way, 
 always. Misfortunes come to the good, as well as 
 to the bad. Mary, you will remember, was ill at 
 this time. It began to rain just as I reached 
 Heidelberg, and I had no umbrella. They say it 
 always rains here, but I did not know the adage till 
 I reached the town. I started to engage a carriage, 
 but so much was demanded for its use, I thought 
 it would be cheaper to purchase a new suit of 
 clothes, so left it and proceeded to walk up the hill 
 to the Castle, taking things in as I passed along. 
 After I had gone some distance, I saw the same 
 turnout coming my way and an offer by the driver 
 at a more reasonable rate, closed a bargain, and I 
 got in. Soon after a guide appeared offering his 
 services, and we made a contract on that. Every- 
 body happy. We cravv^led up the steep hill to the 
 old ruin, the finest in Europe, (though I began to 
 think I was) passing little summer houses, and 
 hotels, making me wish I might spend weeks 
 among and in them. At the entrance to the 
 Castle is a gate, and near by a cafe, into which I 
 took the guide and blew him off a couple of 
 times, and then went into the grounds. I told 
 the coachman to reserve the carriage until I re- 
 turned. I went all over ; through the gate built in 
 
 174 
 
a night ; enjoyed the charming view, which tempts 
 you to linger, then into the Castle, half palace and 
 half fortress, up into the museum, and down into 
 the chapel and cellar, where is the celebrated 
 "Tun." I was sorry it was empty. The last 
 time it was filled three hundred and sixty thous- 
 and bottles of wine were said to have been put in. 
 I am inclined to think this is either not true, or 
 the bottles were small. However, it can hold 
 enough to keep a poor family all winter. 
 
 The guide asked me if I desired to visit the 
 Molkencur, or Milk Cure a short distance, he said, 
 above the Castle. Two hundred feet up hill ! I 
 wonder what he calls long ! I declined, telling 
 him I had been weaned. Returning, I took the 
 carriage and rode all through the town, over the 
 Old and New Bridges ; saw the University, the 
 Church, half Protestant and half Catholic, and by 
 this I mean, the building is in one piece, one 
 sect worshipping in one end, the other in the 
 other ; the dueling rooms of the students, where 
 are cut the names of many who have become dis- 
 tinguished in the world. I bought at the Castle 
 a Stein for my son-in-law, who is making a collec- 
 tion of ceramics, and a metal mug for an intimate 
 friend who never drinks. When I returned to 
 Frankfort, Mary asked we where I was going to 
 pack them, and why I had not brought a whole 
 brewery. I declined to discuss the subject. Her 
 cold made things look large. I did not feel very 
 
 175 
 
well myself going back, for I missed the com- 
 pany of the clergyman's pretty wife, and perhaps 
 had walked too far, Mary said I had "been too 
 kind to the guide." I recovered. 
 
 We left for Mayence, or Mainz, take your 
 choice — the next afternoon. It Vv^as growing 
 warmer. In the evening of the day before we 
 left for Cologne, we rode about the town, viewing 
 the barracks, monuments, and attractive places. 
 Mary being better so I could leave her without 
 causing myself anxiety, and also being lonesome, 
 I spent the latter part of the evening in a grand 
 garden near our hotel. It was brilliantly illumi- 
 nated, filled with families, fathers, mothers and 
 children, from the grown up son to the nursing 
 babCo An orchestra discoursed delightful music, 
 and every one was having an enjoyable time. All 
 were drinking bier like christians. I want to say 
 right here, and Mary will bear me out in this as- 
 sertion if in nothing else — we never saw a drunken 
 person in our entire travel until we reached Lon- 
 don. There the number of drunken men and 
 women would shock a saloon-keeper. The 
 Italians and Germans drink wine and bier as we 
 do coffee and tea, not gulping it down, but sipping 
 it. This is first, because they have not the money 
 to pay for it, and second, they drink for the social 
 feature, not to become intoxicated. We met two 
 or three wedding parties holding a celebration in 
 several hotels where we were staying, and though 
 
 176 
 
at times we could hear them talking and singing, 
 as if they felt exhilarated, yet we never saw one 
 the worse for his indulgence. Raines Bills are un- 
 known, nor does a man abuse his liberty. I am 
 in favor of their methods, and shall vote with the 
 Germans at the next election. 
 
 To get back. The city is situated at the junc- 
 tion of the Main and Rhine rivers. A Roman 
 camp was located here B. C, 38, but the founda- 
 tion of the town dates from B. C, 14, when 
 Drusus built extensive fortifications and added 
 the Castellium, whence Castle takes its name. In 
 the Citadel is an interesting monument, the 
 Eigelstein, 45 feet high, erected by soldiers in 
 honor of Drusus. Outside of the city are exten- 
 sive remains of a Roman aqueduct. I did not see 
 them. The Cathedral is one of the grandest in 
 Germany, none so rich in monuments. The 
 Brazen Doors bear inscriptions engraved in 1135, 
 in honor of Archbishop Adalbert I. In the 
 Chapter house, m,ay be seen the tablet to the 
 memory of Fastrada, wife of Charlemagne, and 
 Schwanthaler's monument to "Rauenlob, the 
 pious minstrel of the Holy Virgin, and of female 
 virtue." (There never has been another born.) 
 Near it is the older tombstone of 1783, a copy of 
 the one set up at the death of the poet in 13 18. 
 Near the Cathedral is a statue of Gutenburg. 
 There is an Electoral Palace, St. Stephen's Church 
 
 177 
 
and others we did not have time to visit. I had 
 a circus in the town trying to buy some cough- 
 drops for Mary. I wanted troches, but the apothe- 
 cary insisted on giving me stuff in a bottle. At 
 last I succeeded in obtaining some malt drops, 
 like candy, which seemed to allay the irritation in 
 Mary's breathing apparatus. I could not work my 
 M. D. as I had no license to practice in the coun- 
 try, so was obliged to pass my myself off as an 
 ordinary man. It was a great come down. 
 
 178 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 THE RHINE AND COLOGNE. 
 
 "The river Rhine, it is well known, 
 Doth wash your city of Cologne; 
 But tell me, nymphs ! what power divine 
 Shall henceforth wash the river Rhine ?" 
 
 WE started on our sail down the Rhine in 
 the morning, at 9:30 by steamer Deutscher 
 Kaiser, arriving at Cologne at 5 P. m. It alwa37-s 
 seems to me to be ''up" when I look at the map. 
 I think the reason they say "down," is on account 
 of the direction of the flow of the water. Since 
 my return I have been frequently asked "which is 
 the more beautiful, the Hudson or the Rhine ?" 
 I answer neither, for to my vision they are en- 
 tirely unlike. The Rhine is historic, therein is its 
 beauty, with its castles, old palaces and vineyards. 
 It is a dirty stream, at some places very narrow, at 
 no point so majestic in its water as our noble 
 Hudson. I like the Hudson better because I 
 drink it, now and then. Mary takes it in tea. On 
 our trip down, she took Chablis and Seltzer, I was 
 not mean enough to keep count of the number of 
 bottles. She drank, however, all she ought in her 
 feeble state of health. I took all kinds, as I 
 wished to sample the brews of each noted place 
 
 179 
 
where wine is produced that I might know which 
 was tlie best tonic for ray patients, when I pre- 
 scribe a light form of alcoholic stimulant. 
 
 The first place of note reached is Bingen, the 
 home of the fellow who "lay dying in Algiers." 
 Opposite, on the right hand shore, on the wooded 
 height of Nierderwald is the great National monu- 
 ment, commemorating the restoration of the 
 German Empire in 1870. It stands 740 feet above 
 the river, and consists of a collossal statue of Ger- 
 mania 33 feet high, upon a pedestal 78 feet in 
 height, adorned with historical and allegorical 
 reliefs. Then Eltville, Y\^here a printing press 
 was set up in 1465 ; then the Castle of Johannis- 
 berg, Geisenheim and Rudesheim, both with their 
 old castles, and noted for wines. Assmians- 
 hausen, famous for red vv^ine, is at the end of the 
 "great gorge of the Rhine," through which we 
 were to sail. On the right the ruins of Ehrenfels 
 and the Mausthurm, or Mouse Tower ; then 
 Lorch, Bacharach, with many little villages be- 
 tween. Longfellow says, as you will remember, 
 in the Golden Legend, 
 
 "At Bacharach on the Rhine, 
 At Hocheim on the Main, 
 And at Wurzburg on the Stein, 
 Grow the three best kinds of wine." 
 
 Caub, to the right. Oberwesel, to the left. St. 
 Goar, on the left bank has, on the hill above 
 Rheinfels, the most interesting ruin on the river. 
 
 180 
 
It is of the I3tli century. Then comes Welmich, 
 above which is the castle of Thurnberg, or the 
 "Mouse," built in the 14th century. Bornhofen, 
 with the twin castles of Sternberg, and Lieben- 
 stein, Brauback, Rhense, Oberlaustein, passing 
 the royal castle of Stolzenfols, on the left, to 
 Coblence. Here the Moselle enters. Beyond is 
 the long island of Niederwerth. We then come 
 to Engers on the right, where as some antiqua- 
 rians believe Caesar made his second crossing^ of 
 the Rhine. As we sail along, we pass Weissen- 
 thurm, with the old watch tower, A. D., 1379. On 
 the height, to the right is a monument to the 
 French General Hoche, who crossed here in 1797. 
 Then Neuwied, and Andernach, with its ruined cas- 
 tle, ancient walls and lofty watch-tower. On the left 
 Brohl, with the ruined castle of Hammerstein, 
 built in the loth century, and destroyed in 1660, 
 by the Archbishop of Cologne. Linz, also on the 
 right. Erpel, Remegen to Oberwinter, where 
 ahead of you the view is the finest on the river. 
 Konigswinter, on the left, where is the old castle, 
 what remains of it, a mere fragment, said to have 
 been built by Roland, paladin of Charlemagne, 
 who fell at the battle of Roncesvalles. Rolandseck 
 comes next, after half an hour's sail. Last Bohn, 
 twenty-one miles from Cologne. 
 
 I8l 
 
COLOGNE. 
 
 We were doubly glad to reach Cologne, for here 
 we found the first letters from home, bringing 
 the gratifying intelligence that all were well. 
 Mar}^ was cured, after reading the first epistle, and 
 I took a bottle of Cologne water on the kids. 
 
 Cologne, or Koln, was originally the chief town 
 of the ancient Ubii, the Oppidum Ubiorum of 
 Tacitus. It became known as Colonia Agrippina 
 from A. D. 51, when Agrippina, who was born 
 here while her father Germanicus held command 
 in the district, induced her husband Claudius to 
 send a colony of veteran soldiers to the place. It 
 afterwards became the chief town of Germania 
 Secunda, or Inferior. The Roman remains con- 
 sist of what is called the Pfaffenporte, supposed to 
 be the old Porta Claudia, and som^e fragments of 
 the walls. Many statues, sarcophagi, mosaic pave- 
 ments, &c., have been found in and about the city. 
 
 The Cathedral, the spires of which you see long 
 before reaching the city, is the great glory. All 
 things considered, it is the grandest Gothic church 
 in the world. It was begun in 1248, but the choir 
 was not consecrated until 1322. The spires, two 
 of them, the tallest in the world, are 512 feet high. 
 It contains much statuary and many paintings. 
 The treasury guards a golden shrine of the 12th 
 century, enclosing the bones of the Magi, brought 
 
 182 
 
from Constantinople to Milan by the Empress 
 Helena, and afterwards transferred by Frederick 
 Barbarossa to Cologne. The glass is fine, like 
 some at Munich. Mary thinks it is the finest of 
 all churches thus far seen. We visited the church 
 of St. Ursula, 12th century, said to hold the bones 
 of 11,000 virgins martyred by the Huns. (Prof. 
 Andrew D. White in his recent work says they 
 are mostly those of males and animals.) Bones 
 are everywhere worked into the walls as mosaics, 
 in every available place in the church. The 
 skull of the saint, and a few of her chosen com- 
 panions, are stowed away in the Golden Chamber, 
 in the inside of gold and silver images. It was 
 here I saw one of the vessels used at the mar- 
 riage feast in Cana of Galilee. I put hand my into 
 it, but the bridal party had not left a drop. A piece 
 was broken out of the rim. While "doing" this 
 church we saw a similar party. We were told by 
 the guide the poor things had been there a couple 
 of hours, kneeling and praying before the High 
 Altar. I did not ask the innocent doves why they 
 did it. Peace in the family, and with the pros- 
 pective mother-in-law I presume was the object. 
 Into whatever gallery of paintings we went, we 
 had been haunted by two pictures, Susanna at the 
 bath, and St. Sebastian, the human pin-cushion. 
 No matter where the gallery was, in church or 
 palace, these two turned up. Mary was disgusted 
 after she had seen two or three thousand Susan- 
 
 183 
 
nas, but I would have seen more. I looked her 
 ^straight in the face, not as the Elders always were 
 doing, through a crack, or half-opened door. Had 
 I been there, I should have gone right in like a 
 man, and offered to buy soap and tovv^els, or help 
 her wash. I got down on St. Seb'. Here I saw 
 his bones and the arrow which killed him. I was 
 thankful he was done for, and bade him, as I 
 thought, an everlasting farewell. Not much ; he 
 and Susie turned up in the next museum. I'd 
 like to get the two together, so as to make an 
 end of the farce. I'll bet on Susie every time. 
 Women like Mary would side with the old duffer 
 Sebast'. 
 
 Less interesting churches are those of St. Ger- 
 eon, with a nave as old as the 7th century, having 
 skulls of the martyrs around under gilded ara- 
 besques ; the Apostles' church, begun in 1200; 
 St. Peter's, which has for an altar-piece the "Cru- 
 cifixion of St. Peter." (You pay a fee to see it.) 
 At No. 10, in the Sternengasse, Rubens is falsely 
 said to have been born, and in the same house, 
 (this is true,) Maria de Medici died in exile in 
 1642. St. Maria is built on the site of the Roman 
 Capitol ; then there are St. Martins, St. Andrews, 
 where is the tomb of Albertus Magnus, and in the 
 church of the Minorites is buried Duns Scotus, 
 with a tombstone bearing the inscription, ''Scotia 
 me geftuit, Anglica me sitscepit, Gallia me doaiit, Col- 
 onia me tenet." The Rathhaus, or Hotel de Ville, 
 
 184 
 
or City Hall, was founded in the i3tli century. 
 The portico was added in the i6th. This latter 
 has inscribed upon it, in Latin, expressions of 
 gratitude to Julius Caesar, Augustus, Agrippa, 
 Constantine, Justinian, and the German Emperor 
 Maximilian. The museum contains a valuable 
 collection of antiquities. The monument to Fred- 
 erick William III, is one of the best works of its 
 class in Europe, It is in the Heumarkt. We 
 rode over the fine bridges, saw the Zoological 
 and Botanical Gardens, and much else of interest, 
 Mary enjoyed baths in Cologne water ; she 
 washed, drank and did all manner of things with 
 it, even had tea made from it. They vs^ater the 
 streets with it, and use it just as we do that of the 
 Hudson river. For handkerchief and disinfecting 
 purposes, we bought it in bottles. That which 
 we purchased was "The Only Genuine Maria- 
 Farina" We knew it was so, as it was obtained 
 ' in a shop directly opposite the Cathedral. There 
 . are at least five hundred others, who claim the 
 same genuiness, but they must be frauds. Any 
 way, some one is not truthful. It may be Mary. 
 
 185 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 AMSTERDAM. HAARLEM. THE HAGUE. 
 SCHEVENINGEN. 
 
 "pT was Sunday when we left Cologne for Ams- 
 ^ terclam, "The Vulgar Venice," This was in 
 accordance with our usual plan, Sunday and long 
 rides being synonymous. We arrived early in 
 the afternoon, which gave an opportunity of riding 
 about the city. Holland had always been familiar 
 in name, but not much of an acquaintance in 
 fact. My forefathers came from this far-off 
 land, and bequeathed to me many of their virtues 
 but none of their vices. Mary's predecessors 
 emigrated from Ireland. I need say nothing 
 more. The country through which we passed 
 was dotted everywhere with those giant wind- 
 mills, too precious from tradition to be put aside 
 for modern devices. We found a letter awaiting 
 us from our daughter, and this added greatly to 
 the health of mind and body we were enjoying. 
 Amsterdam is the commercial capital of Hol- 
 land. It is situated on the influx of the Amstel, 
 an arm of the Zuiderzee. It has a fine harbor 
 and a lively trade, especially with its colonies. 
 Diamond cutting is one of the great industries, 
 
 i86 
 
which process Mary was anxious to see. I had 
 an experience at Venice in the lace manufactories 
 that taught me a lesson. She did not go. All of 
 the houses are built on piles, which gave rise to 
 the joke of Erasmus, that he knew "a city, the in- 
 habitants of which dwelt on the tops of trees like 
 rooks." As I walked about I could not help 
 bringing to mind old Peter Stuyvesant with his 
 wooden leg, and the New Amsterdam so far away. 
 What changes have taken place since the old 
 fellows sailed westward, seeking an extension of 
 their trade in the New World ! Everything is of 
 interest here. The queer houses, the strange 
 costumes, especially those worn by the people 
 coming into town from neighboring burgs, the 
 funeral processions and the "Schnapps." The 
 language I could never seem to get hold of. It 
 is a jargon to which my classic tongues and 
 modern dialects give no aid. One must see Hol- 
 and its inhabitants to obtain a real knowledge of 
 what it and they are. We took in all we could, 
 leaving much behind unseen, though wished for. 
 The Dam is the focus of business life. It is a 
 large square and owes its name to the position on 
 the west side of the old embankment with which 
 the foundation of the old city is connected. The 
 Dam is surrounded by the Exchange, the Royal 
 Palace, the Nieuwe Kerk, and many private 
 houses. It is the center from which the principal 
 streets diverge, and where the tram-way cars 
 
 187 
 
gather. The Exchange is a handsome structure, 
 built on 3469 piles, being completed in 1845. The 
 Nieuwe Kerk, was erected in 1498, and is one of 
 the most important in Holland, The monuments 
 in the interior are all beautiful, and mostly dedi- 
 cated to the memories of distinguished Admirals 
 who fell in naval battles. The Royal Palace was 
 begun in 1648. All the apartments are richly 
 adorned with sculptures in white marble. The 
 whole arrangement of both the exterior and in- 
 terior carry us back to the days when a wealthy 
 and powerful municipality congregated here. 
 
 The Kalverstraat, is one of the chief thorough- 
 fares, and contains fine shops, restaurants and 
 cafes. The University contains excellent por- 
 traits of eminent scholars. There is also a society 
 of Arti et iYmicitias, with pictures and scenes from 
 the history of the Netherlands. In the Rem- 
 brandsplein is the statue of Rembrandt, and also 
 his old house. Near is the house of Herr J. P. 
 Six, containing a celebrated Gallery of Paintings. 
 The Fodor Museum contains a valuable collection 
 of paintings by ancient and modern masters, and 
 for the study of the French school of the 19th 
 century, is second to none save the Hertford 
 collection in London. 
 
 We went through the Jewish Quarter, finding 
 a marked contrast to the ideal Dutch cleanliness 
 of the rest of the city. The Jews form one-tenth 
 of the population and have ten Synagogues. The 
 
 188 
 
largest, that of the Portuguese Jews, is said to be 
 in imitation of Solomon's Temple. The Ryks 
 Museum is the finest and most charming of all 
 the places we saw. It contains over three hun- 
 dred rooms filled with the most exquisite pictures, 
 porcelain, statues, weapons, engravings and works 
 of art. The Dutch school is fully represented, 
 Rembrandt especially. It is too large and grand 
 to attempt a description of any part. j\lary was 
 particularly interested, as I see her catalogue is 
 filled v/ith marks of pictures, etc., that pleased her. 
 Mary had grown b}^ this time to be quite a con- 
 noisseur, (of course under my tutorage,) and could 
 pick out a good painting wdien she saw it, and 
 tell the reason why it had merit. She has quite 
 a mind, the only trouble being in keeping it in the 
 right direction, and upon subjects she can grasp. 
 Canals intersect the city in almost every part 
 and wind in every direction. They are not so 
 large as those in Venice, nor is there that beauty. 
 They seem to have been made for short cuts to 
 the harbor. You may drive along their banks, 
 which are the streets of the town, beneath grand 
 old trees, which give shade and shelter, making 
 the thoroughfare cool, and producing a most pic- 
 turesque appearance. It is with difficulty I re- 
 strain my pen from writing more of this quaint 
 old city, its parks, gardens, museums, all that 
 make up a part of the history of my native state. 
 Even if you do not go to see it, read about it, as 
 
 189 
 
the story is enchanting-. We would fain have 
 lingered here, and gone into the little villages 
 round about, to see what manner of men the de- 
 scendents of the old Dutchmen were, their homes 
 and mode of life, but our time was g-rowing short 
 and Mary was anxious to reach Paris in order to 
 pick out that new bonnet. We did, however, take 
 a day off, going to — 
 
 HAARLEM 
 
 that we might spend a few hours with an Amer- 
 ican lady who had won a bright Dutchman 
 for a husband. It was an enjoyable visit, for I 
 heard nothing but English spoken, and sat down 
 to a real home dinner. Pie and bread, delicious 
 cheese, common food I may say, such as I have at 
 home. We had grown tired of the everlasting 
 table d' hote, with the rolls that break your teeth, 
 and the pastry that is made of nothing but sugar 
 and foam. It was home-like, with a darling little 
 boy who carried us back in memory to our chil- 
 dren so far away. We feasted, not on the variety 
 but on the quality of the viands. Then the talks, 
 the recounting the "alls" that had happened since 
 the departure of our friend from her native land. 
 I tell you it was great. While sitting in the library 
 of this delightful residence on Flora Park during 
 the time my wife was arranging her toilet, I put 
 out my hand to take a magazine, thinking to 
 spend the moments in learning a bit of the Dutch 
 language, when what should meet my astonished 
 
 190 
 
gaze but a newspaper from my own city. It was 
 of recent date, and full of items which told me 
 how the boys were getting on. I read every let- 
 ter in that paper, advertisements and all. I found 
 some of my friends had moved away, that my 
 own son had changed his business, that some had 
 died. Letters had been few and far betV'/een, but 
 this little paper "filled a long felt want." My 
 wife's name and my own were mentioned, and 
 the public informed how w^e were getting on. 
 This, no doubt, was learned from letters written 
 to friends. 
 
 Haarlem is one of the cleanest cities of Holland, 
 and has a special pride in the fact. It has large 
 manufactories, well kept gardens and prome- 
 nades, while tulips bloom everywhere, as they do 
 all over the country. The Groote Kerk, erected 
 in the 15th century is noted for its organ. In it is 
 a monument to the memory of Conrad, the engi- 
 neer who constructed the locks of Katwyk. There 
 is a sounding board over the pulpit, and a cannon 
 ball in the wall, the latter a reminiscence of the 
 Spanish siege. Outside of the church, but really 
 in it, is a fish-market. About the doors and along 
 the side was the greatest collection of old used up 
 traps I ever saw. Old locks, nails, pans, carpenter's 
 tools, all lying on the ground and all for sale, a 
 sort of out-door market for trash. In the market 
 place is the bronze statue of Coster, the alleged 
 inventor of printing. In the Town Hall, built in 
 
 191 
 
the I2tli century, nearly opposite the church is 
 the museum. It contains a small but valuable 
 picture gallery, the only one where it is possible 
 to become acquainted with the jovial Frans Hals, 
 the greatest colorist of the Dutch painters next 
 to Rembrandt. 
 
 Haarlem is adorned with parks, horticulture 
 giving display to myriads of flowers, as hyacinths, 
 tulips, crocuses and lilies. Some of these gardens, 
 well repay a visit. Our friend guided us to every 
 place that had enjoyment in it, and as the shadows 
 fell, we returned to Amsterdam. From Amster- 
 dam we went to — 
 
 THE HAGUE 
 
 once the hunting-seat of the Counts of Holland, 
 whence its Dutch name 'S Graven Hage, or den 
 Haag (i. e. "the Count's enclosure," or "hedge." 
 It has been for centuries the favorite residence of 
 the Dutch princes. It possesses many broad and 
 handsome streets, lofty and substantial houses, 
 spacious and imposing squares. While there are 
 many important and beautiful public buildings, 
 the chief attraction is the Picture Gallery, 
 (Koninklyle Kabinet van Schilderyen) founded by 
 the princes of the House of Orange. Rembrandt 
 and Potter are the heroes of the collection. The 
 catalogue now numbers upward of four hundred 
 and fifty paintings, the greatest number belong- 
 ino; to the Dutch school. The -oictures which 
 
 192 
 
attract the most attention are, Rembrandt's cele- 
 brated School of Anatomy, and Potter's Bull. 
 The former called back my days of medical col- 
 lege life, making me wish I were a boy again. It 
 was painted for the Amsterdam Guild of Surgeons 
 in 1632 and intended to be hung in the Dissecting 
 Room. It is said to be "the truest and most life 
 like representation of the working intellect ever 
 produced." The other, the far-famed Bull of Paul 
 Potter, is the most popular picture in the collection. 
 The fly on the animal causing many ludicrous 
 mistakes, as not a few attempt to brush it off. 
 Many statues adorn the city. In the Plein is that 
 of Prince William I, in bronze. In the Buttenhof, 
 the bronze statue of Vv^illiam II. In front of the 
 Royal Palace, built in the time of Stadtholder, 
 William III, is the equestrian statue of Prince 
 William I, of Orange. 
 
 The Town Hall, Municipal Museum and Li- 
 brary contain statuary and paintings with other 
 objects of art, the latter a valuable collection of 
 coins, medals and gems. In the center of Willems 
 Park, stands the National Monument, unveiled 
 in 1869, to commemorate the restoration of Dutch 
 Independence in 181 3, and the return of William 
 of Orange, who afterward became King. The 
 principal churches are the Groote Kerk, and the 
 Nieuwe Kerk. There are Zoological and Botani- 
 cal gardens, and many houses and residences of 
 men whose ancestors lived a life of virtue and 
 
 193 
 
died distinguished. An attractive spot, not to be 
 missed in a visit to The Hague, is the "House 
 in the Wood," the Huisten Bosh, a royal villa, 
 erected in 1647 for the Princess Amalia of Solms, 
 the widow of Henry of Orange. The interior 
 contains many pictures, the best being in the 
 dining-room, the latter having imitations of bas- 
 reliefs, producing a perfect illusion. 
 
 Nearly all the commoner children wear wooden 
 shoes (sabots) as do the laboring men and women. 
 No where did we see so many in use. Though 
 they look clumsy, they appear to be worn with as 
 much ease and comfort as their leathern brothers. 
 J thought of buying a pair for Mary, as they are 
 cheaper than those she has made to order, and I 
 think would last as long and do more service. I 
 could hear her coming if I were alone with a 
 pretty girl. This would save embarrassment. 
 While here I did a little shopping for Mary. 
 Buttons will come off, and garments rip and tear. 
 Our clothing began to show the effects of use, but 
 we were trying to keep them together, and appear 
 decent until we arrived in Paris, where that bonnet 
 was to be purchased, and where we also expected 
 to add to our supply of raiment. I got what Mary 
 wanted, and at the same time saw a good deal 
 of the town, as I lost my way. 
 
 ScHEVENiNGEN, a few miles from The Hague, 
 is among the most noted bathing resorts on the 
 continent, and the most expensive. It is fre- 
 
 194 
 
quented by about 20,000 visitors annually, includ- 
 ing ourselves. The bathing boxes, or baskets, 
 are curious looking affairs, which stand all over 
 the beach, one for each bather. We did not bathe, 
 for many reasons. One of which was, that I pre- 
 ferred to wait till I reached Paris, where I under- 
 stood beautiful young ladies assist in the 
 operation. Mary did not know this, but accepted 
 my excuses for not going into the water. 
 
 As we were seated in the carriage on leaving 
 The Hague, just about to start for the station, 
 one of the servants of the hotel opened the car- 
 riage door, and informed me I had forgotten to 
 remember him. His cheek was so angelic, I put 
 ray hand into my pocket and gave him a franc. I 
 was not forgotten, in this respect at least, no 
 matter where I went. 
 
 195 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 
 ANTWERP. 
 "Smiling at us witli its fair towers." 
 
 "I^ RQM The Hague we left for Antwerp, pass- 
 -^^ ing through Rotterdam where we had in- 
 tended stopping, but that Paris bonnet broke up 
 more plans and good intentions than anything I 
 ever met, unless it is old age. 
 
 Antwerp is the most interesting town in Bel- 
 gium, the principal arsenal of the kingdom, and 
 one of the strongest fortresses in Europe. Here 
 Rubens was born. Antwerp is true to art, and 
 looks just like its pictures. Even the dread of 
 having to open your trunk for inspection by the 
 Custom Officers does not mar the pleasure of see- 
 ing it. The officials were very lenient, and let 
 everything pass. I think it was because the in- 
 spector on looking at our trunk, concluded, with 
 rare judgment, the owners of such an outfit could 
 not afford to smuggle anything. There is an old 
 saying that "Brussels rejoices in noble men, Ant- 
 werp in money, Louvain in learned men, and 
 Mechlin in fools, for the people go to bed at 7 
 o'clock." This inspector did not come from 
 Mechlin. 
 
 196 
 
The fascinating influence of Rubens cannot be 
 appreciated without a visit to this delightful city, 
 where his finest works are preserved. Our hotel 
 was at the side of the Cathedral, whither we 
 wended our way as soon as we had eaten luncheon. 
 It is the largest and most beautiful Gothic church 
 in the Netherlands. It was begun in 1352, and 
 does not as yet appear completed. In 1566 it was 
 seriously damaged by puritanical zealots, and 
 again by fire and the French Republicans. The 
 interior is grand and impressive, the vaulting 
 being supported by 125 pillars. Here are the two 
 celebrated paintings by Rubens. "The Descent 
 from the Cross," and "The Elevation of the Cross." 
 The former is what is called a "winged" picture, 
 that is, shut up in a kind of box, ostensibly to 
 keep the dust from soiling it, but really to get a 
 fee for showing it. The other is covered by a 
 curtain for the same reason. Over the high altar 
 is his "Assumption," said to have been painted in 
 sixteen days. In one of the chapels is the "Resur- 
 rection," painted for his friend the printer More- 
 tus. Plantin's tomb is another, bearing an in- 
 scription on the stone by Justus Lipsius. There 
 are a lot more pictures and stone saints, candles 
 and other bric-a-brac, I have not time to describe. 
 If the Cathedral lacks in anything, it makes up the 
 loss in noise. It has a chime of ninety-nine bells, 
 very different in the quality of tone from those 
 spoken of in the church at home. Near the tower 
 
 197 
 
outside the church is the famous well, with its 
 iron canopy, wrought by Quentin Matsys, the 
 blacksmith artist. It is a love story, too long to 
 be written here. Matsys is buried close beside 
 the tower, and his tombstone, which has been re- 
 moved to the museum, says in curious old Latin, 
 "Love converted an ironsmith into an Apelles." 
 
 Things are all together in Antwerp. You are 
 not obliged to walk or ride miles to see the differ- 
 ent objects of interest. This saves a lot of trouble 
 and a large waste of money. In front of the 
 Cathedral is the Place Verte, formerly a church- 
 yard, and adorned with a statue of Rubens in 
 bronze. It seems not only to be the market-place 
 and flower-mart, but the abode of more dogs than 
 any other spot in the world. The ringing of the 
 bells, and the barking of the dogs, got me out of 
 bed earlier than I usually rise when on a tour for 
 health. Here too are the Postoffice, the street 
 car center, the best cafes and stores. It is the 
 center of the city's life. In the square is an im- 
 mense iron fountain representing Silvius Brabo 
 throwing the giant Antigon's hand into the 
 Scheldt. There is a legend about this, as well as 
 about everything in Antwerp, but you must read 
 them up in some other book. 
 
 Most of the houses in the Grand Place are 
 "Guild Houses," formerly occupied by the differ- 
 ent corporations, and dating from the i6th and 
 17th centuries, the coopers, tailors, carpenters, 
 
 198 
 
and others. The Hotel de Ville is situated here, 
 containing- more interesting- pictures. I was 
 shown through it by a mighty pretty girh Mary 
 was at tlie hotel, resting. A few steps from the 
 City Hall is the Vielle Boucherie, or old fish-mar- 
 ket. Farther on is a statue in marble of Van 
 Dyck. Near is the Academic des Beaux Arts. 
 Then comes the Musee Kums with one hundred 
 and seventy paintings. Still farther the Capuchin 
 Church, erected in 1589, containing two valuable 
 pictures, one by Van Dyck, the other by Rubens. 
 Of course it has others. A little beyond, is the 
 church of St. Augustine, erected in 161 5, also 
 having paintings by Rubens. Near the Rue 
 National is the Platin-Moretus Monument, filled 
 with interesting relics of these ancient painters, 
 copies of their work, presses, plates, proof reading 
 stalls with the names of the readers above them, 
 everything belonging to these wonderful men. 
 The business was started in the house of Christo- 
 pher Platin in 1 549, 
 
 The Church of St. Jacques, built near the end of 
 the 15th century, contains the tomb of Rubens, 
 and is next to the Cathedral in magnificence, con- 
 taining more sumptuous monuments and decora- 
 tions. St Andrew's Church is, like all the others, 
 stone saints and pictures. It was built, they say, 
 in 1 5 14 and looks as if it had been. St. George is 
 another. The Museum is a fine one. To write 
 about all the pictures and articles in it, would only 
 be to, rewrite the catalogue. You may buy one 
 for two or three francs, so I am not going to 
 
 199 
 
waste time over it. Van Dyck's and Ruben's and 
 a lot of other celebrated masters are all over the 
 city, that is, their paintings, and you get your 
 money's worth in seeing them. 
 
 One of the curious churches is that of St. Paul, 
 built in 1540. It contains Ruben's "Scourging of 
 Christ." The garden is the interesting place. 
 Down in a cave are representations in stone of 
 heaven and the other place, of Christ on the cross, 
 and lying in the tomb, happy looking angels, and 
 unfortunate gentlemen behind bars amid flames, 
 begging for water, as they had no use for money. 
 Then there is Mount Calvary, with saints and all 
 the Apostles in stone. Above, that is outside in 
 the garden, are more saints and apostles. If the 
 garden were larger there would be more, but the 
 artists have done well with what they had, in 
 things terrestrial and celestial. You cannot ex- 
 pect a man to do much in representing heaven 
 and earth and the bad place within a few square 
 feet. Near the Cathedral lies the former Jesuit 
 Church, built in 16 14. It has a handsome facade 
 and bell-tower. 
 
 There are other parks, churches, and monu- 
 ments, some of which we did not see, and if we 
 had, are too numerous to describe in this already 
 too long chapter. My pen tempts me to say some- 
 thing concerning the elegant wharves, but I for- 
 bear. It was Mary's birthday while here. I gave 
 her a good dinner, one of my old Life Insurance 
 Policies, and promised her a new bonnet when 
 we reached Paris. I think that was doing well. 
 
 200 
 
CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 /^VER since our return from Europe we have 
 ^^ been asked "Did you see the Wiertz Mu- 
 seum ?" I am happy to say we did not. It was 
 not because we did not care to do so, but because 
 it rained. I am glad it did rain, for it has given 
 those who have seen it an opportunity to tell us 
 how much we missed. If we had visited it, they 
 would have said nothing about it. It is the same 
 way with pictures. If any one asks me if I saw 
 so and so, I tell them yes, for in the millions I did 
 see, there was small chance of my missing it, and 
 I do not feel I have told an untruth. Mary tries 
 to be more exact, going to her Baedeker or cata- 
 logue to see if it is marked in the proper place. 
 By the time she has found out, the questioner has 
 forgotten all about the question. My time is 
 worth money, and I cannot waste it on such 
 trifles. I have read it up, however, in the guide 
 book, and do not think we have lost such an 
 awful lot. We shall not make a special trip to 
 see it. We saw everything else. 
 
 Brussels is the capital of Belgium, and the 
 residence of the Royal Family. It is situated 
 
 20 1 
 
nearly in the center of the kingdom on the river 
 Senne. The principal attractions are the Place Roy- 
 ale, laid out in 1778, where is the chief traffic of the 
 city. Here is the Church of St. Jacques sur Cau- 
 denberg built in 1776. In front of the church is 
 the statue of Godfrey de Bouillon, the hero of the 
 first Crusade. Opposite is Montague de la Cour 
 street, which though steep, has a stream of 
 vehicles constantly passing through it. Here too 
 are some fine shops. Not far off on another 
 street is the Palace of the Comte de Flandre, to 
 which we could not obtain admission. I do not 
 think he recognized my card, The Palais Royal 
 contains some ancient and modern pictures. A 
 flag hoisted at the palace announces the King is 
 at home. It was not up while we were there, or 
 we should have called. Near the Royal Palace is 
 the Palais des Academies, also called the Ducal 
 Palace, formerly that of the Prince of Orange. It 
 is occupied by societies of medicine, beaux-arts, 
 and letters. In the garden about it are statues 
 of Quetelet, the Astronomer, a Victor in bronze, 
 Cain, a Discus-thrower, and a group of Cupid and 
 Psyche. The Palais de la Nation is in the Rue 
 de la Loi. It was erected in 1779. Around about 
 are government buildings. 
 
 The Colon ne du Congres is a fine monument 
 erected to commemorate the Congre.ss of 183 1. It 
 is 147 feet in height, and surmounted by a figure 
 of the King in bronze 13 feet in height. Other 
 
 202 
 
figures in relief are about it. The Cathedral (Ste. 
 Gudule et St. Michel) is a fine Gothic structure, 
 built in 1220. It contains much of interest in the 
 way of stained glass, portraits in glass, monu- 
 ments and carved work. Opposite the Cathedral 
 is the National Bank. The Royal Library con- 
 tains a vast number of ancient autographs, books, 
 playing-cards and the like. The Musee Moderne 
 contains over two hundred and twenty paintings, 
 sculptures, and forty water colors and drawings 
 displayed in eight rooms. In the upper town are 
 the churches of Notre Dame des Victoires and the 
 monument to Counts Egmont and Hoorn. As 
 they were bad men they were executed. Later it 
 was found a mistake had been made, so to offset 
 the deed and make it right with some one, this 
 monument was set up. 
 
 Here are the palace of the Due d'Arenberg, 
 erected in 1548, containing a small picture gallery, 
 The Conservatory of Music, and the magnificent 
 Palais de Justice. This is the largest building in 
 the world, St. Peter's at Rome not excepted. It 
 is a mass of sculptured and polished marble, sur- 
 mounted by a tower 400 feet high. In the rotunda 
 are colossal figures of Justice, Law, Strength and 
 Clemency. The flights of steps ascending to the 
 vestibule are adorned with immense statues of 
 Demosthenes and Lycurgus, Cicero and Domitius 
 Ulpian. The interior includes twenty-seven large 
 court rooms, two hundred and forty-five other 
 
 203 
 
apartments, and eight open courts. The Waiting 
 Room is in the center, under the dome, which has 
 an interior height of 320 feet. It is the most mag- 
 nificent building in itself I ever saw. In the lower 
 part of the town, back of the Hotel de Ville, is the 
 Manikin Fountain. It has quite a history. Mary- 
 did not not like it. I brought home a little 
 pewter imitation, so as not to forget it. 
 
 The Grande Place is said to be one of the finest 
 mediaeval squares in existence. In 1568, twenty- 
 five nobles were beheaded here, for what, I do not 
 remember. The mistake will be found out later, 
 and all will get monuments. The Hotel de Ville, 
 is one of the noblest and most beautiful buildings 
 in Belgium. There are a lot of empty niches on 
 the facade, perhaps intended for monuments to 
 those executed nobles. Opposite the Hotel de 
 Ville is the Halle au Pain, better known as the 
 House of the King. It was formerly the seat of 
 the government authorities. There was an earlier 
 building on the present site, said to have been 
 occupied by Pope Innocent II, and King Bernard. 
 Then there are the churches of Notre Dame de 
 la Chapelle, the Musee Commercial, the Guild 
 Houses, the Galerie St. Hubert, markets, theaters, 
 exchanges, beautiful streets, promenades and 
 parks too numerous to mention. The Martyrs' 
 Monument, erected in 1838 to the memory of the 
 Belgians (445) who fell in 1830 in the war against 
 the Dutch, is one of the finest we saw in the city. 
 
 204 
 
We did not go to the Zoological gardens, as we 
 were tired of seeing half-fed animals. They all 
 look alike, but please the small boy. They may 
 go. Mary is lion enough for me and does not ap- 
 pear starved. 
 
 One thing I saw astonished me. It was a 
 Belgian pie. Thirty inches across the top, and 
 two inches thick, large enough for a Thanksgiving 
 dinner to all your next of kin. I did not eat 
 one. Mary did, but bought it with her own money. 
 She had recovered entirely from the cold taken 
 at Berlin. It was so wet and rainy, we did not 
 go over to the field of Waterloo. I had been on 
 enough battle fields, being married, and did not 
 care to spend money for relics I knew were not 
 genuine. Mary and I had no fight over the mat- 
 ter, I giving in as usual. 
 
 There was a blamed pretty chambermaid at the 
 hotel I wanted Mary to engage for our home in 
 America. She declined on the ground she did not 
 speak French well enough to bother with her. I 
 do not think this was the real reason she had in 
 mind. Of course Mary bought more lace, as she 
 had heard it was well made in this city. It looked 
 
 as moth eaten as any she has. I bought , well 
 
 never mind. 
 
 205 
 
CHAPTER XXIL 
 
 PARIS. VERSAILLES. 
 "Where Love reigns, disturbing Jealousy." 
 
 T^ARis takes five letters only to spell it, and an 
 -^ entire encyclopedia to describe it. The dif- 
 ference is so great between the two, I shall not 
 attempt it. Mary and I took in all we could dur- 
 ing the day, I taking in more at night, when it 
 was not prudent for her to be out. I do not 
 wonder Mary prefers being buried here, rather 
 than at Pisa. I certainly should, and have the 
 resurrection the next morning. Paris is so 
 near New York, it would be a v/aste of ink to 
 speak of its architectural and art beauties. We 
 read of them almost daily, and see them in print, 
 taken like shadows, but not so departing. Its 
 joys, its pleasures, its abandon, all that goes to 
 make up its gay and butterfly life, must be met 
 in person, to know what they are. No words can 
 convey the faintest idea. 
 
 The ride over had not been so pleasing as we an- 
 ticipated, the country having grown more familiar 
 by reason of travel through Holland and Belgium. 
 It was much the same, topographically. There 
 was a long detention in the Custom House after 
 
 206 
 
our arrival late in the afternoon, due either to the 
 number of packao;es to be examined, or the 
 thoroughness with which it was done. Ours passed 
 quickly, no doubt due to the wisdom of the In- 
 spectors, a sort of insight into our little trunk and 
 bags. It was late after dinner, so save a short 
 stroll, we retired early, in order to be prepared for 
 the pleasures of the morrow. The morrow being 
 Sunday, we rode about the city, into the Bois 
 de Bologne, Champs Elysees, Champs de Mars, 
 where is the Eiffel Tower, through the prin- 
 cipal streets and Boulevards till we were tired. 
 Late in the afternoon we strolled into the Louvre, 
 more to get an idea of what was to be seen 
 than to see. We visited it daily, and before we 
 left had viewed all its treasures of art, from the 
 Immaculate Conception to the Venus de Milo. 
 Words cannot describe what is here gathered. 
 
 This same evening (Sunday) I, not being able 
 to understand preaching in the French language, 
 and as it was also long after the hours of service, 
 went down into the Latin Quarter to call on 
 Trilby. Her mother told me she had gone to a 
 dance. This I thought strange, and as I never had 
 done it on Sunday, regarding such a performance 
 as wrong, forthwith went in search of her to bring 
 her home. I went to the place where the ball 
 was being held, to hunt her up. When I arrived, 
 I found several hundreds of ladies and gentlemen 
 had accepted invitations for a good time. It was 
 
 207 
 
what is called "The Student's Ball," a very un- 
 ceremonious affair, taking place regularly twice a 
 week, on Thursday and Sunda.y evenings. When 
 I am in Paris, I do as the Parisians do, so joined 
 the choir and went in for what was to be had. In 
 Paris, Sunday comes next month, so I violated 
 no moral law. Every one was glad to see me 
 and made me feel much at my ease. The young 
 ladies were particularly attentive, asking me to 
 invite them to a glass of wine. I did, as I believed 
 it to be the proper thing to do under the circum- 
 stances, which were novel, and good practice for 
 the next time. I never knew exactly how it 
 occurred, by accident I presume, but one of the 
 ladies kicked off my hat. This taught me if I 
 were to keep up with the procession while here, 
 I must assume a virtue if I had it not, so the follow- 
 ing day I shaved off my beard, including the two 
 or three grey hairs, and came out a comparatively 
 young looking man. As the hat had become rather 
 rusty after so much exposure to sea and travel, I 
 decided to change it for one better adapted to my 
 now younger years. I did so without informing 
 Mary. It was a mistake. As the weather was 
 warm, I judged alight straw would be the fro?nage, 
 (as we say in French) so bought what I thought 
 became my style of form and beauty. I did this 
 on my own responsibility, and appeared before 
 her with the purchase on my head. Words fail 
 to express her disapproval, I suppose she would 
 
 208 
 
say "disgust." I thought it mighty fine, and felt 
 if I could bring it home, it would be the admira- 
 tion, if not the envy of my male friends. It was 
 only a simple white straw hat, with the brim dyed 
 a beautiful blue on the underside, and around the 
 crown a ribbon of white and red silk. What could 
 be more simple? Mary had interviewed the 
 monument of art but a few seconds, when in 
 language similar to that used on the ship when 
 I brought back the change from the smoke-room, 
 ordered me to exchange it. I did so at the cost 
 of two francs to boot. I have always been sorry 
 I did, but it is better to make such mistakes, than 
 to have Mary down on you. The hat, I must say, 
 gave her a motherly appearance when we were 
 together, producing a boyish look in me, the very 
 thing I desired. Nearly all, (there were few ex- 
 ceptions) of my purchases thereafter, were made 
 through her advice. They cost more in the end, 
 but avoided a row. My sister, her husband and 
 daughter, met us while here, having come up 
 from Genoa through Switzerland. My sister and 
 niece, with Mary, bought that bonnet so fre- 
 quently spoken of, but no consultation was held 
 with me as to my opinion on so gigantic a trans- 
 action. You will readily see the difference. 
 
 We were fortunate enough to find Opera going 
 on. That bonnet and the rest of us went, and we 
 had a box, too, more for the bonnet than for any- 
 thing else. It gave us an opportunity to see the 
 
 209 
 
interior of the Grand Opera House lighted, its 
 magnificent staircase, and Foyer. The opera was 
 Faust. No great artists, in the role, but there 
 were angels in the ballet. This latter is said to 
 be the finest in the world. I regret not having 
 seen the others for the purpose of comparison. 
 Nevertheless it was by far the most gorgeous 
 spectacle of the kind I had ever witnessed, re- 
 minding me of the days of "Black Crook" when 
 that celebrated play made its first appearance in 
 New York, when Bonfanti and Sangalli as- 
 tonished the city by their grace of action and 
 pose. 
 
 I well remember the day that bonnet arrived. 
 It was delivered by a young lady and a small dog. 
 We had two rooms, (a double apartment) adjoin- 
 ing. Mary had the better, of course, and to this, 
 the aforesaid young lady with the precious bundle 
 came. That was all proper enough and I found 
 no fault. Now I had the larger looking-glass. 
 When the darling was taken from the box, and 
 handed to my wife, I suggested that she and the 
 jewel should go into my quarters to see if it was 
 on straight, leaving the young lady with me, that 
 I might see if were not possible to get two francs 
 reduction in the price to make up for the loss on 
 my hat. Would she do it ? Not much. I have 
 always had a suspicion she thought I was in for a 
 deal for another hat for myself, but there is no 
 knowing a woman's thoughts, they may have been 
 
 210 
 
entirely different. As to the bonnet, I never had 
 a great opinion of it. I saw no difference between 
 those she buys at home, except in price. That of 
 this Parisian affair was greater. 
 
 Our guide was a young fellow about my age 
 who became very much attached to us, or at least 
 to me. One evening he took me to the "Moline 
 Rouge," a queer kind of church, but the congre- 
 gation was large and the music fine. While walk- 
 ing about, some pretty young ladies addressed 
 him in Spanish. Now as he spoke English but 
 little better than I spoke French, I found another 
 tie between us. We gave up our patois, and 
 thereafter used Castillian only. Through this 
 brotherhood I saw many things I might other- 
 wise have missed. I wds glad I knew Spanish. 
 While we were in Paris we happened to strike 
 some of the party of "The Ancient and Honorable 
 Artillery," who had come over from Boston to 
 London on an excursion of some sort, and were 
 now taking in the sights of the gay capital. Among 
 the number were a clergyman and his most inti- 
 mate friend, perhaps a deacon, or elder in his 
 church, perhaps neither. One night my friend 
 the guide, asked me if I would not like to take 
 some one with me for a stroll. The elder (?) and 
 I had grown quite intimate, so I told him I had 
 an opportunity of seeing some of the "Delights," 
 and asked him to be my guest. He told me he 
 could not go, unless his friend the clergyman went 
 
 211 
 
with him, as he had promised the clergyman's 
 wife to keep an eye on him while here, I said 
 that was perfectly agreeable. The minister how- 
 ever, refused, so neither went. It was better in 
 the end. What reasons the reverend gentleman 
 gave as an excuse, are unknown to me, but I sur- 
 mise. I think it likely he feared that on some 
 occasion the friendship might be broken, and one 
 of the two give the other away. Why should he ? 
 If it is worth the while to build up a character, 
 what does it amount to if it will not come to the 
 rescue when occasion demands? My character 
 took me through. Ask Mary. 
 
 There are some wonderful things to be seen in 
 Paris, if you can get on to them. I would like to 
 tell all about them, but have not room in the 
 present volume. I may write an appendix. Mary 
 did a good deal of sight-seeing in the Maisons du 
 Louvre, and the Bon Marche. While she was 
 viewing these grand stores, I was visiting as my 
 fancy dictated. It feels good to be free now and 
 then. I struck one store where photographs were 
 sold, not only on cards, but on boxes, fans, pipes, 
 cigar cases and any other handy thing for orna- 
 ment, or personal use. Mary was with me at the 
 time, but objected to my buying what pleased my 
 fancy. I therefore resolved to go to it again the 
 next day to make such purchases of views as I 
 desired, but never could find the place. Mary 
 said she could, but would not. I think the con- 
 
 212 
 
eern burned up in the night, for it mysteriously 
 disappeared from my ability ever to discover it. 
 She never lost the bonnet shop. Had she done 
 so, and I had known where it was I would have 
 told her. 
 
 The only rascally piece of business committed 
 while on our outing was by Mary. The day I 
 ascended the Eiffel Tower, she refused to go, 
 fearing the height (nearly looo feet) would make 
 her dizzy. So while I mounted, she hired a chair 
 from an old woman, and on m.y return did not 
 pay for its use. Ten centimes, two cents of our 
 money, is too small an amount out of which to 
 beat a person, and were I she, would never put 
 my face in the town again. When I go over alone 
 I shall pay the bill with interest. I enjoy a clear 
 conscience. We visited many of the hospitals, the 
 morgue (behind the church of Notre Dame) in 
 Vv^hich were two bodies. In Notre Dame we saw 
 the recent grave of Pasteur, covered with flowers. 
 The monument has not as yet been erected. We 
 spent an afternoon in the cemetery of Pere La- 
 chaise. Here a guide took us to all tombs of 
 interest. It is a poorly kept plot, the graves being 
 rented for a longer or shorter term of years, or in 
 perpetuity. Of course we saw that of Abe- 
 lard and Heloise. I guess Mark T^vain tells the 
 truth about the parties, or v/hat is left of them. 
 To me there was a vast deal of professional in- 
 terest in the tombs of the great French Surgeons 
 
 213 
 
and Physicians, as Amiisat, Claude Bernard, Bi- 
 chat, Dupuytren, Nelaton and a host of others. 
 Here, in the sweetest rest are many of the great 
 musical composers, Auber, Cherubini, Pleyel, and 
 their peers. Marshalls of the Empire under Na- 
 poleon, from Ney to Suchet, Presidents, Revolu- 
 tionists, Novelists, Painters, men and women who 
 have crowned kings and v/recked Empires. It is 
 a v/onderful spot, this "God's Acre." Sarah Bern- 
 hardt has her tomb already erected, and on each 
 visit to the capital, daily places flowers upon it 
 with her own hands. Lafayette is not buried 
 here, but in the little cemetery of Picus in a street 
 of the same name. The great Actress Rachel 
 lies in the Israelite cemetery adjoining Pere La- 
 chaise, with other noted Hebrews. We wSaw the 
 most interesting. 
 
 We rode over to Versailles with our guide. 
 Here again is a book by itself. After all nothing 
 can be told of Paris, it must be seen. Like Rome 
 it has a history, which can only be truly read and 
 understood by seeing it as it is. We used up 
 considerable small change in one way or 
 another, Mary buying gloves, laces and traps 
 such as a man knows nothing about. I tried to 
 buy photographs, but you know my experience. 
 
 214 
 
CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 LONDON. 
 KEW. HAMPTON COURT. WINDSOR. ETON. 
 
 E went over to London by the way of Calais 
 and Dover. The day was warm and the 
 channel passage smooth, though some on board 
 were made ill. It was a welcome sound to hear 
 again all speech about you in a tongue that gave 
 no chance of misinterpretation. The ride from 
 Dover to London was charming. Everywhere 
 about were cultivated farms, blooming gardens, 
 comfortable homes. We saw none of that "Pauper 
 Labor" politicians talk so much about during 
 election campaigns either here, or elsewhere, un- 
 less it was in Italy, where other circumstances 
 govern, as the Church, a depreciated currency, etc. 
 London, I must talk of as I did of Paris. I 
 cannot describe the many places of interest we 
 visited, it is too big. I did not take a fancy to it, 
 though there may have been a reasonable cause. 
 We went to one of those family temperance 
 hotels, kept by a friend of a friend of mine. You 
 could get nothing to drink with your dinner, and 
 were locked out of the house if not at home 
 by midnight. It was clean, delightfully situated, 
 
 215 
 
just the place for women and retired clergymen, 
 In 'the words of Artemus Ward "for those who 
 like it, it is just such a place as such people like." 
 It was however to me, personally, a great change, 
 coming from the gay capitals of the Continent, 
 with their fine hotels, and all the freedom you de- 
 sired. Mary liked it, "it was so quiet." Situated 
 at the side of the British Museum, near Holborn 
 street, it is a convenient point from which to 
 start for all places. The meals did not suit us. 
 At breakfast the coffee was mixed, as if we were 
 children. I never drink milk in mine, but here 
 could not get it otherwise. Then again, the 
 bread was passed from one boarder to another 
 and he, or she, cut off a piece the size desired, by 
 holding onto the body of the loaf. Who knew 
 where their hands had been last ? Some one, 
 without doubt, eventually swallowed the microbes 
 which came off the loaf. You are obliged to "eat 
 your peck of dirt" during your life-time I know, 
 but you take it with less disgust when you are not 
 aware of its presence, than when you see it laid 
 on. After the first meal we took all others else- 
 where. We still continued to breakfast here, as 
 going out early in the morning was most inconve- 
 nient for Mary, but I gave up coffee and bread. 
 Mary stuck to tea and somehow or other got some 
 rolls. The closing of the doors at 12 P. M. was an 
 affliction, and broke up many a good tim.e. I can 
 never forgive them for causing me to leave the 
 
 216 
 
finest display of living' pictures I ever saw on the 
 stage. It brought me other anxieties, but was a 
 comfort to Mary. 
 
 Fortunately for us, two old friends were resi- 
 ding in the city, both playmates of mine in 
 younger days. One a chemist of renown, whose 
 fame grows as his life lengthens and the results 
 of his labor are given to the world. The other' 
 an artist, whose works adorn the National Gallery 
 in London, and other galleries in the great cities 
 of Europe, and Avho in loving remembrance of our 
 boyhood had painted for me a little picture of a 
 bit of English landscape, embodying in it all the 
 genius and art which have won for him so many 
 laurels. These two made I^ondon life endurable- 
 The city itself is old, black, and without private 
 beauty. The palaces, courts, public buildings, 
 abbeys, churches and monuments are grand, not 
 only in structure, but in their histories. The best 
 way to see London, is from the top of a 'bus. 
 This I did as often as I could get av^^ay from 
 Mary, riding into all parts of the city, accompanied 
 by my friend the chemist. Together, Mary and 
 I did well with the ''Hansoms," a two-wheel sort 
 of cab, which needs no description. 
 
 Of all places, Westminster Abbey was the spot 
 I most desired to visit, as being "the only National 
 place of Sepulchre in the world." I wished to see 
 the spot which contained the remains of Charles 
 Darwin, the man who did so much to remove the 
 
 217 
 
scales from the eyes of dogmatic theology, and 
 made religion more precious and men happier, 
 and of whom some one, paraphrasing the script- 
 ure says, "God said, let Darwhi be, and there was 
 light." I desired to stand by the tomb of Major 
 Andre, of whom my great-grandfather took 
 charge, by order of Gen. Washington, the night 
 before his execution. My great-grandfather, I 
 think was a witness to Andre's will. He saw him 
 draw the portrait of himself which is now in 
 Trumball Gallery in Yale College, and com- 
 manded the guard which hung him the next 
 morning. My great-grandfather was a captain on 
 Gen. Washington's staff, and these facts have been 
 often told me by his son, my grandfather. On 
 the tomb was a little bunch of withered flowers, 
 tied with a white ribbon, having a card attached 
 on which were written these words : "From an 
 English woman in America, to be placed on 
 Major Andre's monument in Westminister Ab- 
 bey." I thought well of the woman for her 
 loyalty, as well as of the patriotism of my great- 
 grandfather who hung him. The intentions of 
 both were good. I can say nothing else here of 
 the Abbey, it is so immense, so full of history, so 
 awe-inspiring. Book after book has been written 
 concerning it, yet the half has not been told. The 
 same may be said of St. Paul's and of the Tower. 
 If but a single day is to be spent in London, these 
 three places should be visited, if nothing else. 
 
 218 
 
Of the Tower and of St. Paul's I must say a few- 
 words. The Tower is the most interesting spot 
 in England. It was once an ancient fortress and 
 gloomy prison, surrounded by a moat. At first a 
 royal palace, it is best known as a prison. Within 
 is a collection of armor, ancient and m±odern, the 
 Crown Jewels, magnificent to be sure, but not in 
 my opinion equal to those in the treasury at 
 Vienna. The Koh-i-Noor was absent, they prob- 
 ably having heard of Mary's coming, and her ac- 
 tion toward the old v/oman in Paris. Plere in the 
 White Tower are the axe which had brought death 
 to so many, and the block with the marks of the 
 blade upon it. Outside and in different parts of the 
 building are stationed the quaintly attired "Beef 
 Eaters," old soldiers who had been discharged 
 after meritorious service. Each of the twelve tow- 
 ers making up "The Tov/er" has an indissoluble 
 history, connected with it, with marked and pain- 
 ful memories. In the Bloody Tower the sons of 
 Edward IV were murdered. In the Bell Tower 
 the Princess Elizabeth was confined by her sister 
 Queen Mary. Lady Jane Grey is said to have been 
 imprisoned in the Brick Tower, Lord Dudley in 
 Beauchamp Tower. In the Bowyer Tower the 
 Duke of Clarence, brother of Edward IV, is popu- 
 larly supposed to have been drowned in a cask of 
 beer, and Henry VI is believed to have been mur- 
 dered in Record Tower. The Beauchamp Tower 
 was to us the most interesting of all. Here upon 
 
 219 
 
the walls are the inscriptions made by the hands 
 of those who died upon the scaffold, and of those 
 who languished within its cells. These inscrip- 
 tions were the more interesting, in as much as we 
 knew they constituted the employment by which 
 their unfortunate authors beguiled the tedious 
 hours of their dreary captivity, or perhaps, strove 
 to drown the remembrance that in a few short 
 hours they must prepare to meet an untimely end. 
 Near by is the Chapel of St Peter ad Vincula. 
 Within it we saw the graves of Sir Thomas More, 
 Queen Anne Boleyn, the Earl of Essex, Cather- 
 ine Howard, Lord Seymour, Lord Somerset, Lady 
 Jane Grey, and her husband Lord Dudley and 
 others known to fame and history. Those be- 
 headed in the Tower itself, were Anne Boleyn, 
 Catherine Howard, the Countess of Salesbury, 
 Lady Jane Grey and the Earl of Essex. The 
 other prisoners were executed on Tower Hill. Of 
 this little chapel, Macaulay says : "In truth there 
 is no sadder place on earth — death is here asso- 
 ciated — with what ever is darkest in human na- 
 ture and in human destiny, with the savage 
 triumph of implacable enemies, with the incon- 
 stancy, the ingratitude, the cowardice of friends, 
 with all the miseries of fallen greatness and of 
 blighted fame." After looking at the old armor 
 in the White Tower, one of the attendants told 
 me there was but a single American gun in the 
 establishment, and asked if we would like to see 
 
 220 
 
it. Of course we said yes. He brought forth 
 from behind an old counter, a revolutionary flint 
 lock, marked U. S. I gave him a tip for showing 
 it, (that was what he was after) and told him to 
 keep it securely as it was "the only one the 
 English would ever get." He smiled. 
 
 St. Paul's Cathedral resembles St. Peter's at 
 Rome, but is vastly smaller. In front is a statue 
 of Queen Anne, with England, France, Ireland 
 and America at her feet. The interior strikes 
 one as bare and dark, but is imposing from the 
 beauty of the vastness of its proportions. It is a 
 kind of National Temple of Fame. On the main 
 floor are monuments to Wellington, Gordon, Na- 
 pier, Dr. Samuel Johnson and other distinguished 
 dead. Below in the Crypt, stands the polished 
 granite sarcophagus of Wellington, and the mar- 
 ble one of Nelson. At the end are the hearse and 
 trappings used at the funeral of the "Iron Duke." 
 Many other memorials of distinguished men are 
 also here. 
 
 Another object of interest was the "Old Curi- 
 osity Shop." We looked into it, and thought of 
 "Poor Little Nell." So day after day we kept 
 visiting, in the evening taking a cup of tea at the 
 rooms of the chemist, or supping with the artist 
 and his charming wife, then to some place of 
 amusement, then to Holborn Restaurant, Fras- 
 cati's or the "Old Cheshire Cheese." This latter 
 is the place or inn so often frequented by Sam 
 
 221 
 
Johnson, Goldsmith and Dickens. We read the 
 inscriptions over the seats in which they once sat, 
 and tried to fill their vacant places. It was from 
 here, while Goldsmith's land-lady was pressing 
 him within doors and the bailiff without, that Dr. 
 Johnson took the manuscript of the "Vicar of 
 Wakefield" and sold it for three hundred dollars 
 to James Newberry, returning with the money to 
 set Goldsmith free. Over the bench so often oc- 
 cupied by Johnson, engraved on a brass plate, is 
 the following inscription from Boswell's Life of 
 the Old Critic : "There is nothing which has 
 yet been contrived by man, by which so much 
 happiness is produced as by a good tavern or 
 inn." He's right. Here is "ye old corner, ye old 
 fire place, ye old stair way," and a portrait of "ye 
 old waiter." We saw the beer mugs of these old 
 giants of the literary world, and other memorials of 
 their days. We drank beer and ate toasted cheese, 
 smoked the long "Church Wardens" pipe as did 
 they, and brought them home to the hotel un- 
 broken, evidence that we were sober. I even 
 brought mine to America, and still have it in per- 
 fect preservation. I also bought one of the old 
 mugs. Call upon me, and you shall have a draught 
 from its interior. A short time before we left for 
 home, one of the practitioners of my city came to 
 our Asylum with his wife and little son. Together 
 we enjoyed a few days in the Hospitals and about 
 town. 
 
 222 
 
Mary and I took a drive in Hyde Park. This 
 is no simple matter. You are not allowed to g;o in 
 a "Hansom" or in any ordinary carriage. You 
 must put on your best "bib and tucker," have a 
 swell turn-out, a driver in livery, with a "bug" on 
 his hat, and all the trimmings of greatness. We 
 did it, inviting our friend the chemist to accom- 
 pany us. None of us had been surrounded by so 
 much style since we were baptized. It is a beau- 
 tiful place, filled with elegant carriages, their oc- 
 pants dressed in the height of fashion, ladies and 
 gentlemen on horse back, and a world of nobility 
 about. We saw several Royal Nibs. It is here 
 the magnificent Albert Memorial is located. 
 
 Another spot I enjoyed visiting was the Charter 
 House so connected with Thackeray's fictitious 
 Col. Newcomb. Perhaps the fact that it was built 
 (in 1 371) over the site of a burying ground for 
 persons dying of the plague, lent an additional 
 charm. 
 
 We visited Kew Garden and Hampton Court 
 on Sunday as is so frequently done, sailing 
 up the Thames on one of the peculiar little 
 steamers. I see by Mary's diary much is marked 
 as being seen. The palace is the largest (royal) 
 one in Great Britain. You will remember it was 
 built in 1 5 1 5 by Cardinal Wolsey, and afterwards 
 presented by him to Henry VIII. We did not ven- 
 ture into the Maze, though we saw all that was 
 worth seeing from Trophy Gate to the Lion Gate. 
 
 223 
 
While Mary went shopping at "The Universal 
 Provider's," the chemist and I took a day off to 
 to see what was in Windsor and Eton. 
 
 Windsor is more like a castle than any I had 
 seen. It looks as do the pictures in "Jack the Giant 
 Killer," high up, great walls about and turrets 
 towering in the air. We engaged as a guide an 
 old man who had lived here all his life, and who 
 said he was present at the coronation of Queen 
 Victoria. He took us everywhere, seeming to 
 have a sort of right of way. The place is filled 
 with monuments and pictures, chapels and prisons. 
 The Albert Chapel contains the sarcophagi of 
 the Prince Consort, the Duke of Albany, and 
 the Duke of Clarence, eldest son of the present 
 Prince of Wales. I went through the Royal 
 stables, with some Duke or Prince. He may, how- 
 ever, have been only the stableman, but he 
 looked his station and was not below or above, 
 taking a shilling for the trouble. 
 
 Eton is within easy walk of Windsor, so over 
 the bridge we went. It was vacation time, still 
 we had a good look within and without. Of course 
 while in London we dropped into Mme. Tassaud's 
 Wax Work Show. We found a big crowd, and 
 much to commend as well as much to dissatisfy. 
 President Cleveland's wax figure, for instance. It 
 was first, too short, second, too thin, looking as if the 
 man weighed no more than 150 pounds ; third, he 
 was dressed in a second-hand suit, no two articles 
 
 224 
 
of which came from the same store. He looked a 
 curiosity as I suppose the English people regarded 
 him. But a short time before he had issued his 
 celebrated message relative to the Venezuela 
 matter. It was true, he was not all there, quite a 
 little of him being left over, not many thousand 
 miles away. We also saw the "greatest curiosity 
 in the world," namely "the blade of the Guillotine 
 which cut off the heads of 22,000 persons during 
 the French Revolution." 
 
 The day I returned from Windsor I found Mary 
 happy. She had been to Whiteley's and elsewhere, 
 bought a trunk and enough to fill it, after my 
 new overcoats had been put in. She was also 
 financially broke. They tell an amusing story of 
 this Whiteley, which runs somewhat as follows: 
 He (Whiteley) says there is no article on earth he 
 cannot supply on demand. A party of gentlemen 
 laid a wager they could stump him, so ordered a 
 second-hand coffin to be sent to a certain address, 
 at a certain hour that night. He agreed to do it. 
 When the time arrived, a ring at the door an- 
 nounced the arrival of the goods, accompanied by 
 a note from Mr. Whiteley, saying he could "not 
 furnish a second-hand article but the one sent is 
 a misfit, and think it may answer the purpose." 
 Every one who knows Whiteley will appreciate 
 the full meaning of the joke. 
 
 London is great. You who have been there will 
 know that it cannot be described in any one vol- 
 
 225 
 
ume. Its past and present history is well worth 
 reading, not only as entertaining, but as adding 
 to one's stock of knowledge. Says Dr. Johnson : 
 "Sir, the happiness of London is not to be con- 
 ceived but by those who have been in it. I will 
 venture to say there is more learning and science 
 within the circumference of ten miles from where 
 we sit, than in all the rest of the kingdom," I 
 could talk days, yes months over all we saw in 
 even the little time we spent here. Come around 
 after office hours, I will fill the old Chesire mug 
 and spin yarns till you are sleepy. Perhaps you 
 are so now. 
 
 Letters of introduction had been given us to 
 distinguished people residing near London, but we 
 were unable to accept the invitations to call and 
 dine, as the day following our arrival w^e were 
 much indisposed from digestive trouble, no doubt 
 caused by the water, and to cap the climax, a boil 
 began in the inside of my nose. My feelings and 
 appearance were a valid excuse for declining all 
 social functions, so we stuck to the hotel and to 
 the city till August 12th, at 12:30 p. m., when we 
 left The London and North Western R. R. 
 Station for Liverpool on our way home. 
 
 226 
 
CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 "Home, there is a magic in that little word." 
 
 WE reached Livei^pool at 4:30 p. m. The 
 train was a "Special White Star Express," 
 running in connnection with the ships of that Com- 
 pany. We rode through a beautiful country at a 
 rapid rate, with but little motion to the cars, and 
 everything about them more American than I had 
 seen in Europe. The steamer "Majestic" was at the 
 wharf. At 5 p. M. the plank was hauled in, and 
 we began our second voyage over the Atlantic. 
 We saw nothing of Liverpool, beyond a glimpse. 
 There is an elevated railroad in the town, and 
 what I could see of the docks and wharves during 
 the short time between the arrival of the train, 
 and the departing of the ship, merited all the 
 praise I had heard concerning them. The train 
 in which we ran over, was loaded with the most 
 motley lot of baggage I ever saw. Trunks, bags, 
 boxes big and little, things that should have gone 
 by freight the day before. They all got there, 
 however. 
 
 We reached Queenstown the next morning 
 about 6 o'clock. For some cause the mails from 
 
 227 
 
London were delayed, and we did not leave the 
 harbor until i:io P. M. Many of the passengers 
 went ashore, and had I known we should have 
 been delayed so long, would have gone into the 
 city and taken a ride in a jaunting car, with a 
 pretty Irish maid. I do not know what Mary 
 might have done. "The Emerald Isle" looks its 
 color. While waiting, we were surrounded by 
 bumboat women endeavoring to sell their wares, 
 mostly alleged Irish laces in the shape of shawls, 
 small blankets, hoods, and other ornamentations 
 for the female form. I bought a few trinkets 
 ma^e from bog-wood. 
 
 When I went aboard the ship at Liverpool, I at 
 once searched out the captain, (E. J. Smith, R. N. 
 R.) to find if my clothing and rugs shipped from 
 Genoa had been received. He said he did not 
 know, but told me to ask the Second Steward. I 
 asked him where I might find him, and again he 
 said he did not know. If this was not ignorance, 
 what is ? It seemed to me a captain of so large a 
 ship as the "Majestic" should know where a little 
 thing like the Second Steward could be found. 
 The package came to our room all right, soon 
 after we got under way. At Queenstown a num- 
 ber of emigrants got on, three or four hundred at 
 least. I remember one poor fellow who had 
 brought his sister, or sweetheart, over on a tug. 
 He was weeping bitterly, which rather makes me 
 think it was a sweetheart. What a mystery lay 
 before each. When will they meet again ? 
 
 228 
 
The mails put on were enormous. Bag after 
 bag-, directed to all parts of the world, China, 
 Japan, Sandwich Islands, to South America, and 
 to every State in our Union. It was several hours 
 before they were stowed away in the hold. Time 
 is taken from "Daunts Rock," just at the entrance 
 to the harbor. On this trip the vessel made her 
 best record, 5 days, 17 hours, 56 minutes to Sandy 
 Hook Light Ship, beating all previous runs by 8 
 minutes. She had just come off the dock, after 
 having new screws put in. The weather through- 
 out the voyage was fine, a smooth sea, with now 
 and then a fog. Fogs are terrors. Nothing I 
 know but fire, is so much to be dreaded. Vastly 
 denser than on land, you run into them in an in- 
 stant, and after sailing on and on, the deep toned 
 whistle blowing every sixty seconds, you run out 
 as suddenly into the clear sunshine. On the banks 
 of Newfoundland we encountered them most fre- 
 quently. Here we saw many fishing smacks, 
 which had come from the shores of France. At 
 times when the fog lifted, we could see them not 
 more than two or three ships lengths off the side. 
 I have often wondered if many were not run 
 down. I think it must be so, as it always ap- 
 peared we ran faster at such times, for in speed, 
 I should judge lay the element of safety. The 
 faster you go the worse for the boat struck. The 
 ship (Majestic) was an immense one, fitted up 
 like a grand hotel, with every comfort a passenger 
 
 229 
 
could desire ; good food, comfortable rooms, at- 
 tentive service, but more than all else was a feel- 
 ing of perfect safety, which added a charm to the 
 voyage. These with judicious speed seem to be 
 the aim of this line. I met several acquaintances, 
 and two or three old hospital chums, and with 
 them, revived old times in the smoke room. One 
 fellow was thankful I was aboard, I feel sure. He 
 was a Spaniard. One day he stood looking at the 
 chart, while I was in the same state of action, 
 when I spoke to him, making some comments on 
 the run, he replied in such a ^Ya.y, I at once knew 
 he did not understand me, and from his utterance 
 was sure of his nationality, I opened wide in the 
 best Spanish I could muster. That fellow never 
 let go of me till I walked off the gang plank at 
 New York. He told me he was almost dead for a 
 talk, but could not buy it on board. The longer 
 I live, the more fortunate I find it for the world 
 at large I was born. 
 
 We did not bother about seats at table, taking 
 what was left over. I went down into the saloon 
 as soon as I could after leaving Liverpool to 
 choose them, but found so long a line in waiting, I 
 gave up the job as a bad one, preferring to be on 
 deck, drinking in the ozone from the sea. We 
 nevertheless got very good ones, with a very at- 
 tentive waiter. This brings to mind the only ex- 
 ample in the history of the world of not being 
 able to fee an attache. It was at Naples, I think. 
 
After paying everybody I could find, I went in 
 search of "Boots". I found him asleep. I shook 
 him, holloed at him, but could not awaken him, so 
 left in disgust. I guess he had been out with the 
 boys the night before. He'll have a monument 
 one of these days. 
 
 Mary began "regulating" as soon as we were on 
 board. We missed the genial good-fellowship of 
 the "Lunatic," the doctor, the professor and his 
 sister, as well as others who had been companions 
 on the outward voyage. Consequently the pas- 
 sage was less lively and we did not run the boat 
 as we had on the outward journey. To make up 
 for this disappointment, we had compent officers, 
 all members of the Royal Naval Reserve, a clean 
 ship and a feeling should accident occur we should 
 be well taken care of, as the discipline of the crew 
 was perfect. If ever you go to Queenstown, or 
 Liverpool, go by one of the "White Star" vessels. 
 You'll get there if seamenship can accomplish it. 
 We made up our minds it was a good time to talk 
 over the events of the past three months, and enjoy 
 each other's society. It was rather novel as there 
 were not so many opportunities for "dont's" and 
 anticipation rather than moral retrospection held 
 the higher cards. Mary read a great deal. She 
 found her favorite books in the library, "The 
 Outlaws of Missouri" and "How to Win at Cards." 
 Again we were unfashionable in not being ill, 
 but eating all they gave us, with luncheons be- 
 
 231 
 
tween. Our chairs were well situated, as I feed 
 the deck steward to place them and keep us out 
 of the sun. 
 
 We reached Quarantine about 3 A. M. Both of 
 us felt so delighted we were soon to see our chil- 
 dren and our home, wq could not sleep, so got up 
 and went on deck. It was a beautiful morning, 
 cool and refreshing. We remained above till we 
 landed. We saw the face of our son-in-law beam- 
 ing at us from the v/harf. We were told it was 
 the intention of my daughter and son to meet us, 
 but the ship arrived sooner than expected. We 
 were just as glad to see him, if he was only a 
 fraction of the family. The Custom House at 
 New York is the worst in the world. They had 
 the pleasure of pulling our trunks and bags inside 
 out, and received their labors for their pains, as 
 they found nothing dutiable under the then exist- 
 ting law. Mary is a first-class smuggler. Her 
 garments presented a much different appearance 
 when she reached home, than when the officer in- 
 terviewed them. Then they were decked off in 
 laces from Venice, Brussels, and Paris. Jewelry 
 adorned her person and that bonnet. She was 
 gorgeous. An hour after reaching the house of 
 our daughter, they were the same old traps I had 
 seen so often in our little journey in the world. 
 
 We remained a day in the city, and then re- 
 turned to our nest, reaching our own fireside in 
 just three months and two hours after leaving it. 
 
 2^2 
 
On the ride up we had a chance to compare the 
 virtues of American and Foreign cars. The 
 palace car in which we were, seemed stuffy. A 
 woman in the chair in front persisted in pulling 
 down my shade, when I desired to look out. She 
 wanted to run my seat as well as her own. The 
 smoking compartment was filled with non- 
 smokers, reading papers. I got a stool from the 
 porter and sat in the vestibule. No such actions on 
 the trains in Europe. Mary has her opinion, I 
 have mine, we agree to disagree. 
 
 At the home station our daughter-in-law with 
 many friends awaited our arrival. I shook hands 
 with all the males, and kissed all the girls, I 
 knew it was a last opportunity for a while. Our 
 home had been decked with garlands of flowers 
 by loving hands, prompted by loving hearts. 
 Upon the waiter in the hall were cards innumer- 
 able congratulating us on our safe return. Friends 
 began calling at once, so did practice. I had not 
 been in the house an hour, before a patient, who 
 had been suffering for some days, came for the 
 performance of a minor surgical operation. As I 
 had my instruments taken to my residence pre- 
 vious to my departure, I was armed, and speedily 
 relieved him. We retired late. 
 
 The following morning I went to "Recovery 
 Hall," and it seemed a long but pleasing journey, as 
 I was so frequently stopped by friends who said 
 they were glad to see me back. I found every- 
 
 233 
 
thing in good shape, and calls already upon the 
 slate, all to "come at once." The old round of 
 life's tread-mill began. I gave away the holy beads 
 and the relics I had bought. 1 still regretted not 
 having that toe-joint, yet it may be best that what 
 is left of the poor Saint should rest in what is 
 regarded by some as Holy Ground. 
 
 The Reporter of one of our prominent daily 
 papers came to me after a few days, asking an 
 interview, that the general public might know 
 something of our trip in which it seemed to take 
 much interest. I gave him a couple of columns. 
 Since that time so many have heard me talk, 
 have seen my enthusiasm, and asked so many 
 questions, I decided to write down during my 
 hours of idleness, something of our outing. 
 I did not care for myself, I w^islied all to know 
 about Mary. Sometimes I start talking of the 
 many happy hours spent in Europe, growing 
 more and more enthusiastic, when a gentle 
 "don't" rings its familiar chestnut bell in my ears, 
 and I cease. 
 
 Perhaps you wish to hear its music now. Par- 
 don me, I am almost run down. I want to mor- 
 alize a little, and as the sun comes in at my win- 
 dow this bright Sunday afternoon, like an old man 
 I am tempted to grow garrulous. As I look back 
 upon the days of which I have written, at best a 
 brief and imperfect sketch, I think after all life is 
 but a journey, the varying conditions into which 
 
 234 
 
we happen to fall being the different cotintries 
 visited. In some we build palaces, in others we 
 find ruins, it rests with us individually which it 
 shall be. The higher and more complete the 
 education, the more it seems to me a man is 
 lifted up, the broader his thought, the freer his 
 will. I have much to acquire, but I would not 
 give back to that oblivion in which I once was, all 
 I learned in this little journey, for many days 
 of longer life, or a thousand times its cost. 
 Travel in foreign lands teaches much of the his- 
 tory of one's own nation not learned in books. 
 We see the progress of our race as it is going on, 
 learning by comparison how man has come up 
 from the lower to the higher ; we see the Creeds 
 of Christendom attired in their various garbs ; we 
 view the progress of principalities and powers, 
 comparing Liberty with the rule of Monarchs ; 
 we gleam from the rich harvest, everywhere 
 strewn about the lands through which we pass, 
 that "ours" is not altogether the best, for we find 
 among the other grains some fruitage better than 
 we gather ourselves ; we learn too by association 
 with different peoples that life is given us, not for 
 the selfish purpose of our own enjoyment, or re- 
 ward here, or hereafter, but to make others hap- 
 pier, and that there is a recompense on this earth, 
 if no other is expected elsewhere. 
 
 From all we have seen, from the cup of enjoy- 
 ment from which we have drunk, we cannot help 
 
 235 
 
wishing- all might taste the same luscious fruit we 
 have eaten. It would correct the mental astig- 
 matism, we know some of you have, and focus the 
 beams of a brighter light upon your heart, if not 
 upon your brain, 
 
 A great part of my enjoyment was due to Mary, 
 my wife. Always the Safety- Valve on the Boiler 
 of my Enthusiasm, she added what would other- 
 wise have been wanting, and to her I owe much. 
 Semper fides et fidelis. But I hear her calling-, 
 and as I have learned to obey, as well as to honor 
 and to love, I must hasten to her. 
 
 To the countries we have visited, to the pleas- 
 ures we have enjoyed, and to the reader who has 
 followed our "sandal-shoon and scollop shell," 
 we say — 
 
 AUF WIEDERSEHEN. 
 
 "^^e|&^ 
 
 PRESS OF 
 
 Webb & Winslow, 
 hudson, n. y. 
 
Brown Brotbers S. Co., 
 
 59 Mall St, mew ^ov\\. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA==BOSTON. 
 
 ALEX. BROWN & SONS, BALTIflORE, 
 
 ALL CONNECTED BY PRIVATE WIRE. 
 
 Travelers' Letters of Credit. 
 
 BILLS OF EXCHANGE, CHEQUES. . 
 TELEGRAPHIC TRANSFERS OF MONEY 
 TO ALL POINTS. COLLECTIONS MADE 
 ON ANY PART OF THE WORLD. . . 
 
 INVESTMENT : SECURITIES : A : SPECIALTY. 
 
 Brown, SbipleiP 8. Co., 
 
 LONDON. 
 
■'TT'l 
 
 iTAR LI 
 
 E. 
 
 ii^nm STATES km royal mkii ^itimEns, 
 New York, Queeostowo and Liverpool. 
 
 MAJESTIC, 9965 Tons. TEUTONIC, 9984 Tons. 
 
 OKKMAMIC, .'-OBo Tons. KllITAKXIC, 5004 Tons. 
 
 CYMKIC, 13,553 Tons. ADHIATIC, 3887 Tons. 
 
 One of the above steamers sails from Liverpool and New 
 York regularly every Wednesday, calling at Oueenstown 
 to receive and land mails and Dr.ssengers. 
 
 iWf^i' 
 
 The "flajestic" and ♦'Teutonk" are twin-screw steamers, 
 well know for their unsurpassed accommodations for all classes 
 of passengers. The "Cymric," a new twin-screw steamer 6oo 
 feet long and 64 feet beam, has very superior accomodations on 
 upper decks for a limited number of saloon passengers. Owing 
 to her great size, the accommodations for Third-class Passen- 
 gers are exceptionally fine, including a large smoking room for 
 men and a sitting-room for women. Also ample table room at 
 meals. "OCEANIC," now building at Belfast, will be 704 
 feet long and about 17,000 tons, the largest steamer ever built. 
 
 For rates, dates of sailing, Saloon or Second Cabin plans, 
 apply at the office of the Company, 7 and 9 Broadway, 
 Bowling Green Building, or to any of the Company's Agts. 
 
 •-•^COMPANY'S OFFICES-'^- 
 
 1 15 State Street, Boston. 244 South Clark Street, Chicago. 
 
 406 Walnut St., Philadelphia. Cor. 9th and Olive Sts., St. Louis. 
 
 133 E. Baltimore Street, Baltimore. 121 So. Third St., Minneapolis. 
 
 432 St. Paul St., riontreal. 8 King Street, East, Toronto. 
 
The Raleigh . . 
 
 Pennsylvania Ave,, cor. 12th St., 
 WASHINGTON, D. C. 
 
 European 
 
 "^ 
 
 ;ite New City accessible to all 
 
 POINTS OF INTEREST 
 Post Office IN THE CITY 
 
 T. J. TALTY, M3n3ger. 
 
OCT 7 iB9S 
 
 i u :> V