Glass Zuj^- Book „_3a:5l5_ TRAVELS ,"•'■5 THE UNITED STATES, ETC. HDnvins 18 i 9 an^ 185 0. BY THE LADY EMMELINE STUART WORTLEY. NEW YORK: TIARPER & BROTPIERS, PUBLISHERS, 8 CLIFF S T U E E T. 1 S o ] . €'ljiii 'iJnlninr iii DrMrntt^ TO THE COUA^TESS OF CHESTERFIELD, BY HER MOST AFFECTIONATK COUSIN, THE AUTHORESS. ^ ,'c.^^^'^ PREFACE. I LEFT England fully determined against writing a book of travels, nay, I would not even keep a Journal during our wan- derings, lest I should be tempted to jot down, and ultimately to publish, my impressions of the' society and institutions in those countries which it was our good fortune to visit ; but since our return to England, friends, to whose better judgment I am bound to defer, have pressed me so strongly to prmt the letters which I had written during our excursion, that I have consented to do so, after adding somewhat, to give them the usual narrative form, and dividing them into chapters. This will account for the familiar tone of the Work, and for occasional repetitions. For the politician or philosopher these pages will, I fear, have little or no interest ; written familiarly to relatives and friends at home, their staple is the gossip of travel ; and if they amuse that large class to whom gossip is welcome, and tend in any way to strengthen kindly feelings in the breasts of my English readers toward the people from whom their wandering countrywoman received so much and such constant courtesy and hospitality, I shall not regret giving to the world this Work. Belvoir Castle, isrjl. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Arrival at New York— First View of Broadway— Summer Costume of tLa Ladies— Description of New York— Its Suburbs and Islands— Its Fortifica- tions—Prepare to start for Niagara 13 CHAPTEU II. Detained at Albany— Wreck of the "Empire" Steamer— American Indiffer- ence to human Life — The theatrical Riot and Massacre caused by Mr. For- rest's Jealousy of Macready— Sympathy of the Lady for the Captain of the "Empire"— Hish-sounding Names of Towns— The Hudson— Hotels at Al- bany-Description of Albany 17 CHAPTER in. Difficulty of conveying the Impression caused by a first View of the Falls of Nia-^ara- An Attempt to do so— The Falls described— A Thunder-Storm over' the great Cataracts— The Rainbow— Kindness and Courtesy of the Americans— Their Spirit of Enterprise— Luxurious Appointments of Ameri- can Steamers— The Dimensions of the Falls— Goat Island— auantity of Water precipitated over the Falls— Grand and Navy Islands 21 CHAPTER IV. Fort Talbot— Canadian Carriages— Vast Extent of American 'Woods— The Hotel at Port Stanley— Lake Erie— Mr. A and his Family— Col. Tal- bot, the " Last of the Mohicans"— Instance of the Memory of North Ameri- can Indians— Another Story of the same Kind— A Recurrence to Niagara — A second Thunder-Storm— American Forests— Lake Erie by Sunset — The Maple, and the Sugar made from it— Coidness of Canadian Winters 27 CHAPTER V. Return to New York— Courtesy and Hospitality of the Americans— Butter- flies and Hummingbirds— Railroads through American Forests— Rapid progress of American Civilization — Port Stanley — Captain Bawbee — De- scription of Butfalo- Trading Facilities of that City— The United States' Military Academy — Monument to Kosciusko — His Garden— West Point The "Traitor Arnold, and Major Andre — Constitution Island — Oppressive Heat of the Weather 32 CHAPTER VL Boston— The Park— The Tremont Hotel— Its luxurious Appointments— Mr. and Mrs. Abbott Lawrence— The "Book of the World"— Description of Boston; the Bridges— Tlieir immense Length— The "Western Avenue- Boston Harbor— Anticipated Rejoicings on the Anniversary of American Independence— Boston Newspapers and Reviews— Supply of Water to the City— Its Docks and Wharves— Public Buildings— The State House— The Custom House— The Athenaeum- The Exchange and Lowell Institute —The crowded Stores— Constant Alarm of Fires 36 CHAPTER VIL Plans for the Future— Musical Taste of the New Englanders— Cholera in New York — Transparency of the American Atmosphere — American News- papers — Their Personalities — A signal Instance — Mrs. S. M of New York, and her family— Miss G of Boston— The loud Talking ascnhed to American Ladies — The Town of Gloucester — Its Trade 42 r CHAPTER VIII. Return to Boston — Fire Engines and their Horses — The Cradle of American Liberty— Faneuil Hall— Boston Prohibition of Street-smoking — Statue of CONTENTS. Washington in the State House — Anecdote connected with it — A Drum pre- served in the State House — Visit to Cambridge — Mount Auburn — Hai^vard University — Professors Pierce, Sillimau, Guyon, Sparks, and Agassiz — Live Coral Insects preserved by Professor Agassiz — Reflections suggested by them — Museum of Professor Agassiz 45 CHAPTER IX. Plymouth — The Pilgi-im Fathers — Mrs. Warr?n, a Descendant of one of the Pilgrims — Visit from Mr. Presoott the Historian— Graves of the Pilgrim Fathers — Visits from Daniel Webster and from Mr. N. P.Willis — Samoset the Indian Chief— Enei-gy of the Pilgrim Fathers — Altered Face of their Country .., 50 CHAPTER X. Green Harbor, the Seat of Daniel Webster — His Guests — Description of his Mansion — The Militia General — Enterprise of American Lady-travelers — An Instance — Mrs. C fi'oni China — Great intellectnal Powers of Mr. Webster — A Storm — " My Kingdom for a Pin" — Anecdote of Lady ■ — The sole American with an aristocratic Title — Extraordinary Popularity of Mr. Webster in Now ICngland — Anecdote of Mr. Webster— That States- man and Mr. Clay never Presidents of the United States — A Cause assigned — Appointment of illiterate political Postmasters — Modeof Living at Green Harbor 53 CHAPTER XI. Visit to Mr. and Mrs. Prescott at Nahant— Paucity of Trees there— A mag- nificent Water-Melon— Beauty of Boston Harbor — Poetical additional Names given to American Cities — New Bedford — -Its Population and Trade - — Delicate Politeness of aDescendantof William Penn — Martha's Vineyard — The Hostess, her Son and Daughter — Woodsville — Naushon — Its Loveli- ness — The one Grave — Reflection suggested by it — An ancient Place of Indian Sepulture — Verses suggested by Naushou 60 CHAPTER Xn. The Blind Asylum at Boston and Laura Bridgeman — New Haven, " The City of Elms" — Yale College — Its Oljjects of Science and Art— Professor Silli- mau, Jun. — Governor Yale— His Epitaph — His English Connections — Black domestic Servants — Two Opinions of them — A stable Count D'Orsay — The American Character — Scenery about New Haven— Katydids, Tree- Frogs, and Crickets — Connecticut Yankees 68 CHAPTER XIIL Bridgeport — The Irish Housemaid— Ultra-Republicans even in America — The great Croton Aqueduct described — Supply of Water to New York — New York Trotters — Delmonico's Hotel— Excursion with American Friends — Glorious Scenery of Staten Island — Greenwood Cemetery — Its Extent, Sceneiy, and Monuments — Miss Lynch the Poetess and Fredrika Bremer 73 CHAPTER XIV. Philadelphia — Incessant Uproar in that City — Its Custom House and Ceme- teries — Baltimore — Battle and Washington Monuments — The Catholic Ca- thedral — The Merchants' Shot tower — Its Trade and Commerce — Its In- crease and Population— Baltimore Clippers — Barnum's Hotel — Sensitive- ness of Americans to cold— The Deaf Gentleman and his Stentorian Friend Anthracite Coal Fires 78 CHAPTER XV. The City of Washington— Pennsylvania Avenue— The " City of Magnificent Distances"- The Stentorian Gentleman and his Hogs— The Capitol de- scribed—Monument to Washington — The Navy Yard — Georgetown — A Digression to Tunis— Public Buililina:s— The Post"Office— The Patent Office The Treasury— The President's Mansion— The "White House "—Visit to General Taylor, the late President— His Daughter, Mrs. Bliss— Appeai-- ance of General Taylor— His Affability— His Conversation— Invitation to ♦h^ Authoress— Heat of the Weather in November S2 CONTENTS. 99 CHAPTEU XVI. Discomforts of Traveling over the Alleglianies— Mr. Clay— Pittsburg as sable as Sheffieia-Its Population-Visit to a Glass Factoiy an, Iron Foundry-A dnar Vehicle-Factories and Foundries in Pittsburg-The Ohio-Thenew Suspension Bridge at Wheeling-Accidents to Steamers caused by it- Courtesy of the Captains and Clerks of Steamers-Cuicninati-Germau and Irish Immigrants compared— Verses addressed to Emigrants 88 CHAPTEiR XVII. Description of Louisville-Its Trade and Natural Productions-Its Soil and Rivers-The Kentucky Caves-A Visit to one-Its Avenues Domes, Cat- aracts Pits and Rivers-A Sea in it-The vociferous Bats-Echoes of the Cave-T le Cave once the Residence of consumptive Patients-The eye- less Fish-The narrow Path and the fat Englishman-Vast Extent of the Cave— Verses suggested by it CHAPTER XVIII. A ronversation in a Coach— A loquacious Gentleman— The other Passenger— H^Are^ance-An American Argament*touching the P.otency of Money ^ S mi'e'a Gentleman-An Exhibition of genuhie Feeling-A Kentuckian « , Notion of England-The slight Value set on human Life in Amenca-The DuerP gs paramount in Louisville-Herds of Swine on he AHeghanies -The Hotel Keeper and the Kentucky Cave-Danger attending a Visit to the Caves CHAPTER XIX. The Steamer fi'om Lon.sville-The Passengers-The^Lady in the Tarhan, ine P'^''^™^'^ "''"', pi-,.„.s— A Family of another Description— The Lili- I TuL^rLt'olnZM model Grandma^ima-Tho Sonnambula of a Stew- Ldess-St Louis-Ravages of the Cholera in that City-Rapid Growth of It Louis-Vast Number of German Immigrants-Progress ot Americau/ SiVilizarion-Prairie Hunting-Frequency of Steamboat Accidents on th J ^^^ Mississippi CHAPTER XX. Tl,« Mi««iK<5inni— Its Impression upon the Author— Its Banks— The immense Fo^iseerfrom it-Its varied Scenery-The Mississippi by Night-Hosts rfl .ill TrPPR-Steamer " 6nae£red"-Visit to the late President's Cotton Planta bn-m Slaves-Interesting Negro Children-Slianty of Mr. Tay- fm the President's Son-An aged Slave-His extreme Pohteness-The black Valet of Mr. Taylor- The immediate Slave Abolition auestion-In- y siances of 111 ti-eatmeut of Slaves-Persecution of Musquitoes 113 V CHAPTER XXL Ti,» t^f rharies Hotel at New Orieans— The Swedish Vv^aiter and Jenny T ind-Ono -essive Heat in December in New Orieans-Vast auantit.es of Cott?n-The probable future Aspect of the Banks of the Mississippi-- rommeice of New Orleans-The City-Its Port-Its Inhabitants-Its \ Churches-The City subject to Inuudations-Place.s of Sepn ture above Ground-Wreck of the Louisiana Steamer- Wonderful Capabilities of the Vniw „f the Mississippi- The Americans not extravagant when they de- •l^/t Resources of their Country-AUigators-The Red River-The . ^ruSdaf ESaXnentl of%he Mississippi ''at New Orleans-Their^ In- ^^^ ^ security CHAPTER XXII. \lr^v.■,^^ T ^tf. Ponnhnrtrain— An Indian Encampment— The Indians and ^tSdr^mitws-cTum^^^^^^^ tivalof the New Year-Rival musical Processions-The Magnolia Grove -Manner of Life of the Indians-Manifold Miseries attending waiting for C3 Jtm^rJ Madame L V Mr. Clay— Preparing to start for Mes- y fo^Mad^e L— -L V 's old black Slave-Her Remembrance %/ cfVashln^i-Versei^on Madame L— V— 's deceased Children ... 13C. CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXIII. -- Boston as a Coraniorcial City.-Its Wharves-Its Sl.ipping-Its Trade-The India Wharf American Boys-Tbe Present and FuLre of Anierica-T e fashionable Quarter ut Boston-American Ladies and Gentlemen- YounI America-Boston the Metropolis of Railroads-Gallantry and Patience o1 American Travc lers-Presh Pond-Wenham Lake Icl_Mn Prescott s tTr n^"p''~r "".Tr- ""'^ I^il-^'-a'-y and Philosophical Institutions' n Bos ton-I s Periodical Literature-Its Charities-Its Patronage of the Arts- Power's bculptures-Frequency of Fires in American Cities-General Appearance ol Boston v^i^co urenerai CHAPTER XXIV. ^ p''l '\}^'\.,^^''^''}^ "<■ New York-Trinity ClmrcIi-Wall-street-Thp Park-The Shops in Broadway-Trallic in Broadwav-TH,h .n i n Chair of Washington-Churches-Benevolent, Litlary and icSt^^^^^^^ stitutions— Squares, Mansions— Foreiirners in IVpw \W1- « . , tween America and Russia-Those twoVa Ls ^.Iv-iT^^^P^^^^^^ ^''■^ Mmtia ^rr^^l^-P^'^'-'-^^-«*-Miiita.7S,^ni7s^iir£ -^^Is o?]us?^^:-S;if ^''''''^' '' America-Ti:^at;^ij *' 146 -. ^ ^ ,, CHAPTER XXV. Vera Cruz by Monnlig-ht— The -Walker" Sreampv Ti,» a,- • Mexico— Lord Mark Kerr's exonis p n^ow^ ^ ^ "'''^ Minister to of Music of the Americars-Th.?!': ,eet of Ve ^'r~®'''l'«. °" »i=<='^-Love -Sopilotes-Their Functions and 'A^pea^Ce Th7 r'^'n ' °'^.'\Noither d'UlIoa— The Harbor of Vera Cru^— ri^rp^, ®t ^^^'''^ °^ ^^- J"an German Housekeepei%e\polyd7^^^^^^^^ ber of laden Mulesi-Depar ures for M^v^n / Alameda- Vast Num- Dresses of the Vera Ci-uzians ^^e^'<=o-^ era Cruzian Watchmen- 159 CHAPTER XX VL The Mexicans— Climate of Mexico— Lnxurianco r,f u^ A^ of its Flowers and Birds-Ja]apa™e Jouniel / ''■^?'^*'°^^ State of the Roads-The DiH^ence-^ ftSblo 1™ /^'"^^''^^-'rhe Cornish Miners in Mexico-The Inn it pSf Fn"rT^u ^','^"»^^-- Mexico-Hacieiida of General Santa A,V„oP, ?,'''' Hardware in sage of the Chapparai-Paente dd Ret-Ti;;^Moun? if '°'f m"^ '''' ^^'■ zaba-Its magnificent Height-Ca liedralof PnS^ ^ of Mexico-Ori- Frio-Popocatapetl-Natio'nalCi;«'oft^ ,, . , , CHAPTER XXVIL -Arrival of the Diligenco^VdirHote?-Ti?ePa:;^^ —Appointments of the Hotel- Xr^vint.,, f, • ? ■'^^- °'^ -^"'""'"zii CHAPTER XXVin. ple-bescription of tl e Te pie 1 v " n T^'^-f ^l "'^ -^""^ ^=^'ec Tem- the Cathedral-The CaLnda • sto^fp nff^f^Tf' ^^ "f^^-^'^e Interior of -The Aztec Priests and their Victim/ t'I,! fff '~^ '? ®',°"^ °'" Sacrifices Museum-Colossal StaUie of Charles 7v of ^ ^°'-«i''PeJ-The National Pedro de Alvarad(>-''E1 Salto de Ah .r;,l ''^ a'""^^'"^?'' "'^ ^"'"'^^'^ ""^ Beauty of the Citv-Tho Shops nnd d, ir^fnU•7•^"."^^^^^^?^ °*' ^^^xico- Horse.fu.niCure-Mexicanirus"t!i\;^SSl]el^^^ CONTENTS. ix CHAPTEU XXIX. Mexico — The Viga — The Chinampas — Floating Gardens, Fields and Or- chards of the Aztecs— Abundance of Flowers in Mexico — And of Fruits — The Frnit Stalls — The Meat and Poultry — Tortoises, Salamanders and Frogs — The Population of the City of Mexico — Its numberless Vehicles — Its Environs on Fete Days — Defective police Arrangements — Frequent Rob- beries in Consequence — Mexican Chocolate — Victoriaua, the Waiting-maid 20 CHAPTEa XXX. Genera] HeiTera, the President of Mexico, and the American Minister — Cha- pultepec assaulted and taken by General Scott — Enormous Cypresses in the Garden of Montezuma — Dona Mariana, the Aztec Wife of Cortez — Vievi^ from the Summit of Chaptiltepec Castle — Impressions caused by it — The Mountains Tacubaya and Toluca — Tanks and Baths of Montezuma — The Opera House at Mexico — The fat comic Actress and the brilliantly dressed one — Beauty of Mexican Ladies — Madame Bishop — Payments in Kind for her Singing — Beautiful Appearance of the Stars in Mexico — View of dusty Victims alighting from the Diligence — The Brother of M. Arago the Astronomer — The Volcanoes Popocatepetl and Iztacchihuatl — Patio of M. Arago 207 CHAPTER XXXI. Intention to cross the Isthmus of Panama — The Carnival at Mexico — Magnif- icence of the Cathedral during that Festival — Throngs of picturesque Peo- ple in the Streets — The Masks — A grotesque Equestrian — Carnival Quiz on English and French Horsewomen — The Mexican Riding-dress — Mexi- can Eyes — High Pacing of Mexican Horses — Mr. Parrott instrumental in securing California to the Americans 219 CHAPTER XXXII. Departure for Vera Cruz — Threatened Accident to the Diligence — Last Look at Mexico and its early Stirrers — The Little Penon — A magnificent View — Passengers by the Diligence — Splendid Sombreros — The Escort of Lan- cers — Mexican Robbers — Of what Class composed — Some of their Exploits — Escorts alleged to be sometimes Robbers — Arrival at Rio Frio — Mr. and Mrs. G The Plain of Puebla— Malinche— The Pyramid of Cholula— Its early History — Its Height and Appearance — Chamber discovered in the Pyramid — What it contained — Arrival at Puebla 234 CHAPTER XXXIIL Departure from Puebla — Acajete — El Pinal — Alai-m of Ladrones — Discom- forts of rough Roads exemplified — Pulque — Its Taste — The Plant from ■which it is extracted — Mode of extracting it — Monde de Pizano — Arrival at Perote — Coldness of that Place in Winter 234 CHAPTER XXXIV. Departure from Perote— Magnificent View from the Heights — Impressions caused by them — The Beautj^ of the Approach to Xalapa described — The Mirage — Appearance of inverted Hou.ses — Hotel de DiHgencias — Visit to a Church — Negotiation with the Mozo touching the Sarape and the Ameri- can Blanket — -Numbers of Friars and Nuns from Spain — Arrival at Verp Cruz — A curious Fact in Relation to Dr. Gutzlaft', the Missionary to China — Arrival of the Steamer for the Havana 240 CHAPTER XXXV. Arrival at Havana — Passengers on Board the Tkainea — Affecting Story of an American Merchant's unforeseen Calamity — An American Grinlin Gib- bons — The enterprising political Organ-grinder — First Glimpse of Havana —The Harbor— The Morro Castle and the Puntal— The Cabanas— The City of Havana — Volantes — The Paseo — Ladies of Havana — Their Dress — The Gentlemen — Usages of Gallantry at Havana — The Military — Reviews and Music — Anxiety of Spain to retain Cuba — Cathedral of Havana — The Ashes of Columbus — His Bust — How his Ashes have been removed from Place to Place — ^Vorshipers in the Catlicdral — The Bishop',s Garden — Rare aiid CONTENTS. beautiful Trees mid Flowers — Hurricanes at Havana — Volantes in niii- vcrsal Use — Where bestowed sometimes — Havana Houses — How fur- nisbed — Social Customs in Havana — Fruits 247 CHAPTER XXXVI. Performance of a Military Band in tlie Grand S(]uare— Tbo diversified Com- pany — Description of Havana Nights — The Opera House — The Singers — Exhortation to Spanish Ladies to preserve their National Dress — An Exe- cution — Material Prosperity of Havana — "Jesus del Monte" — Dinner with the Ca|)tain-General — The Company — Escort of the Conde — Preparations for the Isthmus Journey — A Tertulia — Miss M 's exquisite Playinc: and Singing — The Environs of Havana — The Paseo of Ysabcl Segunda — Envi- rons ot Havana in the Evening — " Guagiros'' — Description ol their Houses — Customs and Dress of the "Guagiros" — Chinese Laliorers in Havana — Anecdote of llhincse Thieves — Preparing to depart for Panama SCO CHAPTER XXXVII. Arrival at Panama — The "Georgia" — Kindness and Attention of Lieutenant Porter — Deticiency of FreshWater — An Alarm on Board — Its Cause — Bus- tle of preparation to land at C'hagres — The stout Lady and her Trunk — Arrival at Cliagres — Polished Manners of American Gentlemen — The Bar of Chagres- — Difficulty of landing and of procuring Lodgings — Apartments at Senor 's — General aspect of (Uiagrcs — The Castle of San Lorenzo — Its i)resent Condition — Population of Chagres — Adventurers to California Start for Gorgona. 271 CHAPTER XXXVIII. The River Chagres — The Boat — The Rowers — Their peculiar and vociferous Songs — Gatun and Millallores — Exquisite Beanty of the Sceneiy on the Banks of the Chagres — Innumerable Flowers and radiant Birds — Strange and Prodigal Intertexture of Parasitical Plants — pjuormous and brilliant Buttcrllies — Las dos Hermanas — Accommodations at that place — The Hostess and her adopted Daughter — Americans bound ibr California — Scenery during the Progress ofthe\ dyagc — San Pablo — An Accident— The Lady with her immense Coitl'ure — Monte Carabali — Arrival at Gorgona.. 281 CHAPTER XXXIX. Gorgona — Immense Number of Americans at that place — The Native Hotel — The Host and his Daughters — A Fiesta — The ^Vomen's Dresses — The truant Clerk in his Splendor — His Glory checked — Hunting for Mules — A pniiecled Railroad through Gorgona — "Sammy," the Servant at the Hotel — Some account of his Duties, and how they were performed — His Appear- ance—Spread of Fever in Gorgona — Mode of lading Mules — Departure of Friends for Panama — Pedestrian Travelers to Calitbrnia — Stanzas sug- gested by seeing them 293 CHAPTER XL. Arrival at Panama — Hospitality of Mr. His House — Coral and Pearl of the Pacific — The "Espiritu Santo" — Departure from Gorgona described — A refractory Mule — The Cerro Grande — Alleged View from its Summit — A magnificent Forest described — A Forest on Fire — The American's Ad- miration of the Trees — The Flowers in the Forest — Difficulty of proceed- ing on the bad Roads — Enormous Loads carried by the Natives of the Isthmus — Attire of Travelers to California — Female Inhabitants of the Isthmus — Their dislike of Americans — Arrival at the Halfway House — Mrs. H and her Child — The American Character exemplified — The Journey resumed — Escapade of a Mule — A Halt — The Indian Hut — Its Inmates — Noises in the Forest 304 CHAPTER XLI. The Journey to Panama resumed — Beauty of the Moon-light — The paved Causeway — First view of the Pacific — The American's opinion of the old Spaniards — And of the present Natives of the Isthmus — Arrival at Panama — The Citv— The Grand Plaza— The Bay— The Cathedral — Jesuit Church CONTENTS. xi Had ("olle^-e — Uuinons Condition of Panama — Americans in Panama bound lor Callliiniia— TUe C'limatc of Panama— Breezes I'rom the Pacific— Gen- eral M Insects and Reptiles in Panama — The Fire beetle — The Family of Madame H A social Custom in Panama — Half-starved Horses and Mules — Panama becoming Americanized — The Carriages in that City 318 CHAPTER XL II. Monarchy and Democracy — Kngland's Treatment of her Colonies — The Great- ness of America — Her Tendency to Propagandism — Anecdote of a Paroquet — The Pearl Fishery at Panama — The Captain and his Crew — General Ro- sas — Beautifully scented Woods in Panama — The Rose Fever — Theatri- t'als in Panama — Hostility between Americans and the Natives of Panama — Fair Children in Panama — The would-be Englishwoman 327 CHAPTER XLIII. Intention to go to Lima — Dinner to l-ix-cannibals — Tlicatricals in Panama — Taboga — The French Tailoress — The " Happy Ship" — Roman Catholic Procession on Good Friday — A mischievous Trick — California thoroughly Americanized — Californian Adventurers and the Steandjoat Agent. — The dead Negro — British Subjects buried in Panama — Tone of American Papers in Panama — Spirit of Enterprise of the Americans— (JId Panama — Reptiles and Insects in Panama — Morgan and his Buccaneers — The Pirates and the Spanish Fleet — Wealth said to have been buried by the Buccaneers — American Love of intellectual Progress 339 CHAPTER XLIV. The probable future of Panama — South American Railroads projected — Gold- seekers in Panama — Large Importation of Fruit tn^cs into California — American Improvements in Panama — Alleged ill-treatment of Emigrants by Ship-owners — The Green Mountain Yankee — The Indians and the damp Gunpowder — The Government of New Granada — Its recent Policy 354 CHAPTER XLV. Arrival at Lima announced — Embark on the "Bolivia" — View of Panama, from the Sea — Buenaventura — The River and City of Guayaquil — Horses' Dread of Alligators — Native Boats and their varied Freight — Parrots, Ma- caws, and Paroquets — Ponchos — The Guayaquil Ladies — Grass Hats — The live Productions of Guayaquil — Payta — Its Popidation — Its Salubrity — Its Market— Scarcity of Water at Payta — Former Wealth of that Place 360 CHAPTER XLVL Chcrimoyas — Lambayeque — The Balsa — Its Use — Numerous Reptiles and Insects at Lambayeque — Curious Mound-tombs — .'-Sepulchral Curiosities found in them — Alleged Imitation of them in Birmingham — Huanchaco — The peremptory Lady — Description of Call ao — Its Destruction a Century ago — The frozen Ap[)!e , 369 CHAPTER XLVIL Site of Old Oallao — The shouting Inquirer — Approach to Lima — Absence of Rain at that City — The graceful Peruvian Costume — The Poncho — Male and Female Equestrians — Arrival at Lim.a — The Aspect of the City — Mlradors — Multitude of Asses in Lima — London and Lima — Costumes of Lima Ladies — The Bridge over the Rimac — Venders of Cigars — the Cor- dilleras 375 CHAPTER XLVIIL The Great Plaza— The Cathedral of Lima— The Streets of that City— The t Silversmiths — The Bells of Lima — Charitable Institutions — Churches and Convents — Handsome Houses — Palaces of the Past — Gr()tes(iue Paintings — Well-appointed Carriages — The Limanian Beggar-woman — Particular- ities of Lima Ladies' Dress — Their Shoes — M. and Madame B Their Daughter 384 xii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XLIX. Signal Instance of the Heroism of a Lady — The Procession of the Oration — A Lottery in the Grand Piaza — How conducted — Distinguished Visitors — Chorillos — The Sale of " Almas," or Souls — The Public Museum — Portraits of the Spanish Viceroys — Mummies of Peruvian Incas — Beautiful stuffed Birds — Manco Capac — Who were the first Incas? — The Children of the Sun — Progress in Civilization of Old Peru 389 CHAPTER L. Manco Capac and his Wife — Their Instruction of the Peruvians — Old Pera vian Roads — Bullfights at Lima — Mode of conducting them — Spectators at them — Limanian Ladies — Beautiful Specimens of Peruvian Art and Inge- nuity — Silver ornamented Fruits — Lima Burial Places — The Amancaes — The Fiesta of St. John — The Valley of Amancaes — The Flower of that name — The Streets of Lima after the Fiesta — Concerts given by a French Lady — Fruits of Lima — The Grenadilla — " Italia" — Custom of washing Plates by the lower Orders in Lima — The Gorgonian Servant — "Huacos" and other Curiosities found in Peruvian Sepulchres — The "Seiiorita" — A Garden in the Suburbs — Its numerous Trees, Shrubs, and Flowers — Ener- vating Climate of Lima 398 CHAPTER LL About to leave Lima — The Cathedral — Fragile but enduring Buildings in Lima — The Reason why they are the latter— The Tower of San Domingo — The Chorister of the Cathedral— The Shrine of Santa Rosa— The Inqui- Bition at Lima — The Cemetery — Cemeteries in the United States — Lima Mode of Sepulture — Remains of the Temple of the Sun — Peruvian Politics — Disheartening News from California- Verses on Happiness— Earth- quakes at Lima — The Shoes of the Ladies 412 CHAPTER Lll. The Voyage from Pera to Panama— Farewell to Lima— Guanacos— The Rio Lady in the Omnibus — The Railroad begun — Arrival at Callao — Rodil's Defense of Callao described — Polite Attention of Captain W The Harbor of Callao — The Beauty of the Pacific — Handsome Appointments of the Steamei- — The Musical Stewards — Mr. Beebe, the Hatter, for Cali- fornia — An-ival at Payta— The British Consul there— Description of Payta ■ — Treatment of Peru by the Spani.3h Conquerors — Insurrection of Tupac Amaru — The Indians beyond Peru 42i CHAPTER LIII. Peru— Her Internal Communication— Her Forts and Coast— Peruvian Agri- culture — Manufactures of Inland Peru — Commerce of Peru — HerCommodi ties — Her Trade— Her Government — Her Religion — Peruvian Fertility — Mineral Resources— Animals— Cattle— The Face of the Country— tho Andes — Rivers and Lakes of Peru — Her Coasts 431 CHAPTER LIV. Departure from Peru— On board the " New World"— The nautical Ladies— Chimborazo and Cotopaxi— The Volcanoes of the Cordillera— Crater of Cotopaxi — A naiTow Escape— Arrival at Panama — An Amateur Concert- Departure from Panama— Scene occasioned by a dead Mule— Badness of the Roads — Arrival at Cruces 438 CHAPTER LV. The Hotel at Cruces— A felonious Cat— Tiic New Granadian Gentlemen- Progress toward Chagres— Lightning, Thunder, and Rain— An-ival at Chagres — The dead American — tinarrels between Americans and the Natives of Panama— Hmnboldt's Estimate of the Indians— Incredulity of Cahfornian Emigrants— Melancholy case of two returned Californians— A beautiful Sunset— Arrival at Jamaica— Kingston-Descent of General Lopez on Cuba- Strange Effect of it— Reverses of Jamaica Planters— The Glories of Nature— Creation's Praise, aPoem 446 NARRATIVE OP TRAVELS IN THE UNITED STATES. CHAPTER I. Arrival at New York-First View of Broadway-Summer Costame of the Ladies-Dercription of New York-Its Suburbs and Islands-Its Forti- fications—Prepare to start for Niagara. The Bay of New York looked beautiful on the morning of our arrival (May 16th, 1849). It was a bright, warm splendid mornin- ; the sun shone gloriously, and the sky rermnded me of Italv °We took leave of Captain Judkms, the obhgmg and ex- cellent captain of " The Canada - but before we went on shore, we witnessed the disembarkation of the mails-it is quite an interesting spectacle. There were about thirty thousand letters— ^^iu,^ messengers of peace !-one could not bt.t rejoice at the slcrht Those numerous letters of business, oi friendship, oi mutual interest, seemed so many links uniting the two countries in a concord not to be easily, if ever, broken. One of the first things that struck us on arriving in the city of New York-the Empress City of the West-was of course, Broadway. It is a noble street, and has a thoroughly bustling, lively and somewhat democratic air. New \ork is certainly handsome, and yet th.re is something about it that gives one the idea of a half-finished