JOURNAL 
 
 OF A- 
 
 TRIP TO LONDON, PARIS 
 
 AND THE 
 
 GREAT EXHIBITION, 
 
 IN 
 
 1851 
 
 
 BY ZADOCK THOMPSON 
 
 BURLINGTON : 
 PUBLISHED BY NICHOLS & WARREN. 
 
 GEO. J- STACY, PRINTKfi. 
 1852. 
 
EfiTERED ACCORDING TO ACT OF CONGRESS, IN TUB TEAR 1851 , 
 
 By ZADOCK THOMPSON, 
 I» the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Vermont. 
 
 \0 
 
PREFATORY REMARK* 
 
 Gratitude is, in itself, a most delightful emotion ; but it is possi- 
 ble for the warmest gratitude to be so associated and mingled with 
 a sense of unrequited favors, as to leave the balance doubtful, be- 
 tween the pleasure of the one and the pain of the other. I speak 
 from experience ; for while the good opinion, and the kindness of 
 my many friends in Burlington, have been to me a source of the 
 deepest pleasure, I have been, at the same time, deeply pained to 
 think how little I have done to merit their favors, and how bttle 1 
 can do to repav them. Although, from my own experience, I can 
 hardly speak otherwise than as a recipient, yet I can well conceive 
 circumstances in which it may be more blessed to give than to receive. 
 Such would be the case, when the giver, with proper motives, gives 
 for a worthy object, and when the receiver receives, conscious that 
 he is totally unworthy of the favor bestowed. 
 
 During my recent trip to Paris and London, I took, for my own 
 
 convenience, short notes of my progress, and of occurrences, from 
 
 day to day. Since my return, some of my friends have expressed 
 
 a wish that I would allow my Journal, containing these notes, to 
 
 be published. Gratitude to them forbids my refusal : but I consent 
 
 to its publication, not that I am ambitious to produce a book of 
 
 travels nor that I expect the public to derive much mformation or 
 
 amusement from its perusal, but simply to place in the hands of my 
 
 most kind friends, a trifling memorial of my gratitude to them for 
 
 the means, voluntarily furnished, without which I could never have 
 
 experienced the pleasure, or have written a Journal of a personal 
 
 trip to the Old World-^without which I could never have had the 
 
 opportunity I have enjoyed, of beholding the wonders of the great 
 
 deep, and of seeing and admiring the wonderful things of nature 
 
 and art which lie beyond it , 
 
V1 - PREFATORY REMARKS. 
 
 The World's Fair, having been rather the occasion, than the ob- 
 ject, of my visit to Europe, may not fill so large a space in my 
 Journal as some may expect. I spent several days at the Crystal 
 Palace, admiring that marvellous building and its wonderful con- 
 tents, and have recorded a few general observations respecting them ; 
 but years would be required to examine them all, and volumes to 
 describe them. 
 
 Much has been said respecting the meagreness of the American 
 department of the Exhibition, and, verily, I think myself it was 
 meagre, compared with what it might have been. But it well rep- 
 resented our country, being a large space only partly filled. Our 
 articles were plain and substantial, but not showy. Hence, it pre- 
 sented little attraction to the superficial observer, and was some- 
 times passed with a sneer, by the admirers of the gewgaws and 
 tinsel of other departments. A little careful observation, however, 
 was all that was needful to learn the fact, that real merit might lie 
 concealed under an unpromising exterior— that the American arti- 
 cles would compare, favorably, with those of the same kind from 
 any other country. 
 
 Two circumstances operated much to our disadvantage, especially 
 in the view of superficial observers. In the first place, we attempt- 
 ed to occupy about three times as much space as we sent over ma- 
 terials to fill. In the second place, the accommodations and fixtures 
 were not such as to exhibit our articles to the best advantage ; nor 
 was there sufficient care bestowed in giving them a neat and orderly 
 arrangement, and in keeping them clean and in their places after- 
 wards. When entering the American department, the first gen- 
 eral impression seemed to be, that of entering a division of the 
 building from which the choice articles had been mostly removed, 
 leaving little more than the rough fixtures and remnants of goods 
 scattered around in disorder and covered with dust. This, I say, 
 seemed to be the first general impression. But this impression was 
 soon removed from the minds of those, who had the patience to ex- 
 amine into the intrinsic merits of our articles ; and such left our 
 department with no disposition to sneer at the ingenuity and skill 
 of the Americans. And, had we occupied, in the Crystal Talace, 
 no more space than the proper disposition of our articles required, 
 and had our General Government provided, as it appears to me 
 
I'ltfifAfOKY It£MAnK8. Vn. 
 
 it should have done, fur the suitable exposition and care of them, 
 the American department, with only the materials we had there, 
 might have appeared creditable, at the first view of the hundreds of 
 thousands, as it was fully acknowledged to be, by the hundreds 
 who had the patience to examine it. 
 
 But notwithstanding the sneers of foreigners and the professed 
 shame of some of our own countrymen, on account of the meagre* 
 Hess of the American contributions to the Exhibition, in its earlier 
 stages, the state of things was materially changed before its close. 
 Foreigners were at length compelled, (reluctantly, indeed,) to ac- 
 knowledge our superiority in some things; and the desponding 
 Americans were, consequently, again enabled to hold up their heads. 
 As Brother Jonathan made Ins debut in the Crystal Palace in his 
 back-woods dress, the refined and burnished specimens of humanity 
 of the old world, looked upon him at first as demi-savage — half In* 
 dian — little advanced in the arts beyond the fabrication of stone 
 hatchets and arrow-heads and bone-knives ; but long before the 
 close of the Exhibition, his despised ploughs were able to open a 
 furrow in the turf which covered their eyes, his reaping machines 
 mowed a swarth through their prejudices, and his keys unlocked 
 their sentiments of respect and confidence — yea, and his yachts 
 were wafted gracefully by the breath of popular applause. 
 
 The following Journal contains brief notes for each day, from the 
 time of my departure from Burlington, till I again reached my 
 home. They were, for the most part, written at the close of the 
 day, just before retiring to rest, often under great inconveniences, 
 and with no expectation that they would ever be published in their 
 present form. I wrote them for myself and family, and I permit 
 them to be published in their original form, with very few changes, 
 either of abatement or addition, as a token of gratitude to my per- 
 gonal friends, knowing that they will be indulgent to their imper- 
 fections, both in matter and manner. Others may think that I 
 have recorded too much of every day occurrences—that I have re- 
 peated, too often, my hour of retiring at night and of rising in the 
 morning. To such, I would merely express the wish, that the reit- 
 erated exhibition of a good example of early rising, may induce 
 others to copy it. And to any who may think that I have said too* 
 much respecting myself , my health, &c, I would reply, that these 
 
fREFAfORY REMARKS, 
 
 were matters in which I felt a deep personal interest, and " out of 
 the abundance of the heart the mouth epeaketh." But I am happy 
 now, in being able to state that, notwithstanding my indisposition 
 while abroad, I find that, on the whole, my health is decidedly im* 
 proved by my excursion ; and I desire that theoe pages may go forth 
 as a thank-offering to my friends, accompanied by my earnest prayer 
 that the Lord will reward them abundantly for their kindnesses. 
 
 Z, THOMPSON, 
 Bieuxgtox, Dec. 1, 1851. 
 
III11I1 
 
 Having completed arrangements for that purpose, I 
 left Burlington in the Steamer, Whitehall, Capt. La- 
 tr op, in the evening o( the 27th of May, 1851, and, at 
 half past six o'clock the next morning, took the cars at 
 Whitehall for Troy, where I arrived about 10 o'clock. 
 At Troy I was detained till evening, when I went on 
 board the Steamer, Empire, for New York, where I 
 met several friends from Burlington, who had left that 
 place in the morning and had come down irom. White- 
 hall in the afternoon train. It was daylight in the 
 morning of the 29th before we had passed the High- 
 Lands, and the beautiful scenery thence to New York 
 was exhibited to fine advantage in the clearness and se- 
 renity of the morning. The view of the Palisades, il- 
 luminated by the rising sun, was strikingly beautiful 
 and grand ; and, together with the line of the Croton 
 aqueduct and the Hudson river rail road seen on the 
 east side of the river, and the ninny charming towns 
 and villages and country seats, which adorn its banks, 
 rendered our approach to the city of Sew York exceed- 
 ingly interesting and delightful. 
 
 We reached the city a little after 7 o'clock in the 
 morning, and I proceeded immediately to the Irving 
 House, where I was cordially received by my friend, 
 
10 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 D. D. Howard, Esq., one of the enterprising and well 
 known proprietors of that popular establishment. On 
 Thursday and Friday I called upon several friends in 
 New York, and made the necessary arrangements for 
 my departure. On Saturday, at 11 o'clock in the morn- 
 ing, I went on board the Franklin with my baggage, 
 and had the pleasure of meeting there some of my Bur- 
 lington friends, who came on board to witness my de- 
 parture. On leaving the Irving House, Mr. H. with 
 his accustomed generosity, refused to receive any pay 
 for the elegant and profuse hospitalities of his House, 
 which I had enjoyed for three days, and, moreover, be- 
 sides furnishing me, gratuitously, w^hile there, with a 
 ticket to one of Jenny Lind's concerts, he kindly invit- 
 ed me to be his guest on my return. 
 
 At 12 o'clock, on the 31st of May, the noble Steam- 
 Ship, Franklin, was released from her moorings at Pier, 
 No. 4, North River, and moved out into the stream, and, 
 at 2 P. M., the discharge of her guns announced that 
 she was headed round towards the sea and was taking 
 her departure. The weather was fine, with a light 
 northerly wind, and I was fully occupied in admiring 
 and enjoying the charming prospects and the beautiful 
 stenery, successively brought into view, as we glided 
 rapidly downward by Castle Garden, and the several 
 forts and islands, until we had gotten outside of Sandy 
 Hook. The river and bay were well besprinkled with 
 vessels moving in various directions, and all around 
 was life and activity. Just outside of the Hook, we 
 met a large emigrant ship, the deck of which was liter- 
 ally crammed with miserable and squalid beings from 
 the old world, and at 6 P. M., we had lost sight of land 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 11 
 
 and found our horizon, all around us, terminating in the 
 ocean. At about 20 minutes past seven, I saw the sun 
 set, for the first time, beneath the dark waters in the 
 west. Retired to my berth between 9 and 10 in the 
 evening, and slept tolerable well till morning. 
 
 My chum I find to be a fine old French gentleman 
 from New Orleans, by the name of Blanchard. He is 
 able to converse some in English, but not very fluently. 
 Our state room is in the forward part of the ship and is 
 quite too small for convenience, especially as we have 
 each of us a very large trunk. Every state room and 
 berth in the ship appear to be occupied, and 1 under- 
 stand the number of passengers on board to be about 14.0. 
 The officers, crew, cooks, waiters, &c, must be about 100, 
 making the whole number of souls on board, near 250. 
 June 1, Sunday.— Rose quite early, found the weath- 
 er fair, the wind light and the sea but little agita- 
 ted By the sun's altitude at noon our latitude was 
 found to be 40 Q 33', our longitude, 69° 10', and our 
 distance from New York, 227 miles, making the 
 mean rate of our progress about 11 miles per hour.-- 
 During Sunday we passed seven sailing vessels and 
 one large steamer. The latter was at a great distance 
 from us, and was supposed to be the Washington from 
 Bremen. During the day we had alight wind from a 
 point a little east of north, and the atmosphere was 
 hazy but in the evening the wind increased, and, be- 
 fore morning, blew quite a gale, rendering the sea 
 rough, and causing the ship to pitch and roll very con- 
 siderably. . A 
 June 2. Monday.— Morning dark and cloudy, wind 
 strong from a point a little east of north, sea very rough, 
 
12 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 white caps abundant, and our ship pitching and rolling 
 very badly. A dismal scene below. Sea sickness be- 
 gan to make an unequivocal manifestation of itself last 
 evening, and before morning, full two thirds of the pas- 
 sengers had received an experimental assurance of the 
 fact. Yery few have made their appearance in the din- 
 ing saloon to day. Since half past ten this morning, 
 the weather has been foggy, with the sea running high 
 and dashing its spray over the upper deck, in such a 
 manner that the wo-begone passengers could not remain 
 there, and they have, consequently, teen, most of the 
 day, in their berths Although I have experienced 
 very little of the suffering, which Mr. Grcely represents 
 himself to have endured, I have witnessed quite enough, 
 during the last twenty four hours, to enable me to un- 
 derstand very well the scenes he so feelingly described 
 in the Tribune, in his account of his first voyage across 
 the Atlantic. But while old Neptune's demands for 
 tribute were very generally imperative and irresistible, 
 he showed himself very indulgent to me, exacting only 
 a slight nausea and loss of appetite, but not sufficient to 
 prevent my regular appearance in the dinning saloon 
 at the hour of meals. I retired to my berth somewhat 
 earlier than usual, and, notwithstanding the rolling and 
 tumbling of the ship, slept very well till morning. 
 
 June 3. Tuesday — Rose about sunrise, found the sea 
 less agitated than it was last evening, — wind fresh from 
 south-southeast. At 7 A. M. the wind had gone fully 
 round into the south. The ship's course, by the com- 
 pass, since we left Sandy-Hook, has been directly east, 
 but, on account of the magnetic variation, the true 
 course has been very considerably to the northward of 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 13 
 
 east. Our latitude, to day at noon, was 41° 40', longi- 
 tude 5S a 21', and distance run since the preceeding 
 noon, 230 miles. At 5 P. M. we passed a school of 
 what the sailors called, Ship- Jacks. They were skip- 
 ping and playing along the surface of the water, and 
 appeared to be about a foot and a half long and very 
 thick and clumped. About sunset we had a smart 
 shower, with several claps of thunder. They were not 
 attended with that rumbling reverberation, which is ob- 
 served on land, but were sudden and short, like reports 
 of a cannon. The shower came from the southwest. 
 
 French is, I think, the native language of more than 
 one half of the passengers onboard, and numbers of 
 them can speak no other. Very many of them are from 
 New Orleans and the West Indies, and several of them 
 are Jews. Many of the passengers continue to suffer 
 from sea-sickness, but a majority, I think, haveappear- 
 ed in the dining saloon to day, at the principal meals. 
 June 4. Wednesday. The ship has rolled badly during 
 the night, on account of a change in the direction of the 
 wind last evening. I arose a little after midnight and 
 spent some time on deck, observing the phosphorescence 
 of the waves, as they broke around the ship. I had ob- 
 served the light, from the water flashing into the win- 
 dows of my state room, before I left my berth. Stars 
 were visible at the time, but the sky was partially ob- 
 scured by clouds. I retired again to my berth about 
 one o'clock and slept till five, when I arose, and found 
 the sky completely overcast, the wind north and the 
 thermometer, in the air, at 52°. The forenoon, howev- 
 er, proved to be fair, with a light wind, but there was a 
 long heavv swell of the sea. giving a disagreeable mo- 
 2* 
 
14 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 lion to the ship, and a very considerable number are 
 still suffering from sea-sickness. Have not suffered at 
 all myself, excepting as mentioned on Monday. 
 
 At noon to day, we were in latitude 43 G 31', in 
 ongitude 52° 53', and had advanced since the previous 
 noon, 265 miles. We are said to be now upon the 
 Grand Bank of Newfoundland — the great Fishing-Bank 
 of the world, and about 1000 miles from New York, or 
 about one third, the distance across the Atlantic. We 
 have passed several sail to day, bound westward, one 
 of which was ascertained to be the London packet, ^lar- 
 garet Evans, which was advertised to leave Portsmouth 
 on the 16th of May. About three and half P. M. wc 
 passed the wreck of a schooner, consisting of little more 
 than the keel and ribs, from which the planks were 
 nearly all stripped. 
 
 Experienced mariners usually tell when they are up- 
 on soundings by the color of the water, it being darker 
 and having little of that beautiful light greenish-blue 
 tint, so observable in the waves of the deep sea. Since 
 we came upon the Grand Bank, the color of the water 
 has resembled, very closely, that of the deeper parts of 
 our fresh water lakes. 
 
 The sunset, to night, was the most interesting I ever 
 witnessed, not only on account of the varied and beau- 
 tiful colors, which lit up the western sky, but, more 
 particularly, on account of the wonderful effect of at- 
 mospheric refraction. Burlington is celebrated for its 
 beautiful sunsets, and can boast of some, which might, 
 perhaps, vie, in splendor and loveliness with the one 
 just mentioned, but never before did 1 witness such a 
 distortion of the sun's image by refraction. Close down 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 15 
 
 to the horizon the refraction was such as to convert the 
 sun's disc very nearly into the form of a vertical sec- 
 tion of an old fashioned loaf of bread. But as this 
 comparison may be as indefinite with regard to form, 
 as was that of the witness' piece of 
 chalk, with regard to size. I introduce 
 the accompanying figure to explain 
 my meaning : The flattening of the 
 disc was such, that the vertical diam- 
 eter did not much exceed two thirds of 
 the horizontal diameter, but the flattening was princi- 
 pally upon the under side; and, indeed, it was there, so 
 great, just before the disappearance of the sun, that the 
 boundary of the disc below differed very little from a 
 right line. Between sunset and dark, something, which 
 the seamen called a Flying Fish, passed us, fluttering 
 along the side of the ship, most of the time out of the 
 water, but it was so nearly dark that I had not a dis- 
 inct view of it. 
 
 June 5. Thursday. — Awoke this morning about 4 
 o'clock, but perceiving it to be very foggy, went to sleep 
 again and slept till 5, when I arose and found we were 
 in the midst of a field of Icebergs. At the time I came 
 upon deck there was one, of considerable size, in plain 
 sight at the south east, and only about a mile off; and 
 I was told that we had, a short time previous to my 
 coming on deck, passed very near several others of 
 much larger size. The thermometer in the air stood, 
 at the time, at 47°. As we passed along we approached 
 somewhat nearer the iceberg above mentioned, and I 
 had an opportunity of viewing it indifferent directions. 
 U appeared like a rounded mass of nearly snowy white- 
 
16 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 ness, exibiting none of the dark crystaline aspect of 
 ordinary ice, excepting alon; 
 portions of the edges. Its 
 form, as seen when directly^! 
 to the southward ofus, is exhibited in the accompanying 
 diagram, in which the dark shades denote the parts, 
 which had the appearance of ice. All the other parts 
 resembled snow. I saw no discoloration, which indi- 
 cated that it transported either rocks or earth, which 
 they are well known frequently to do. The height of 
 this iceberg, above the water, was estimated to be about 
 50 feet, and its horizontal extent 300 feet; and as this ex- 
 tent appeared nearly the same from all the positions 
 from which it was seen, the horizontal diameters of the 
 mass, at the surface of the sea, must have been nearly 
 equal in all directions. To form an idea of the entire 
 magnitude of the iceberg, it is necessary to consider that 
 only one eighth of the mass of floating ice appears above 
 the surface of the water, and therefore the whole mass 
 must have been eight times as large as the part seen. 
 The western edge of the iceberg appeared to have been 
 broken off, presenting a perpendicular face of perhaps 
 18 feet in height. About 6 A. M. we passed another 
 iceberg, judged to be 5 or 6 miles to the southward of us 
 and at 8, three others were in sight some distance to the 
 northward. Some of these must have been very much 
 larger than the one I have described. The last we saw 
 was very large and remote in the north. It exhibited 
 two prominences with a valley between them, resem- 
 bling two distant mountain summits covered with snow. 
 We lost sight of this about 1 P. M. 
 
 About noon we passed a large school of Porpoises, or 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. IT 
 
 I might, perhaps, with equal propriety, say that they 
 passed us, for they were moving westward with a speed 
 scarcely less than ours eastward. Hovering over them 
 and occasionally pitching down among them, were a 
 great number of Gulls, and I have observed that wher- 
 ever porpoises have shown themselves in numbers, gulls 
 have appeared also. Captain Wotton tells me that he 
 thinks the porpoises, when sporting and leeping out of 
 the water, as we sec them, are pursuing and feeding up- 
 on schools of small fishes, and that the gulls are invited 
 by the same, and that they pounce upon and seize the 
 fishes as they rise to the surface in their endeavors to 
 escape the porpoises. Gulls have been quite numerous, 
 when there were no porpoises in sight, and I have hard- 
 ly been on deck for half an hour in the day time with- 
 out seeing more or less of Mother Carey's Chickens a- 
 round us* 
 
 At noon to day we were in latitude 45° 26 J , in longi- 
 tude 47 a 8' and 1252 miles from New York. We have 
 passed, to day, several sail, some of which were bound 
 westward, and others apparently engaged in fishing. 
 The temperature of the water, passed over during the 
 24 hours preceding noon to day, being examined every 
 four hours, was found to be 46 c , while that of the at- 
 mosphere was 56 c . The weather is cloudy, chilly and 
 
 * Mother Carey's Chickens is a name given to sea-birds resembling 
 our Cliff Swallows, but they are somewhat larger and are properly call- 
 ed Petrels. The Petrels have been regarded by the ignorant and super- 
 stitious as harbingers of storms and shipwrecks, and have, therefore, 
 been very unjustly stigmatized by such names as Stormy Petrel, Devil's 
 Bird and Mother Carey's Chickens. I noticed two species, which 1 took 
 to be the Thalassidruma Wilsonii and T. Leachii. The former was 
 jnost common. 
 
18 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 gloomy, and I am told it is almost always so on the 
 Banks: and for a great portion of the year they are cov- 
 ered with dense fogs. I have long taken a deep interest 
 in Fishes, and yet I can hardly imagine an employment, 
 which would be more disagreeable to me than fishing 
 on the Grand Bank. I can see no pleasure in the bus- 
 iness, except it be that of good bites and u glorious ?iib- 
 bles" while the fishermen are all the time exposed to 
 chills and fogs and dangerous storms: and yet every 
 year hundreds of fishing vessels spend the whole sum- 
 mer upon the banks. Wrote a few lines this evening 
 to my friend, D. W. C. Clarke, Esq., Editor of the Bur- 
 lington Free Press.* 
 
 June 6. Friday. — Rose this morning and went on 
 deck about 4 o'clock. — found the weather cloudy with 
 a light wind from the east. At a little distance from the 
 ship, I observed that the gulls were numerous and ac- 
 tive, and, on looking more closely, I perceived the sur- 
 face of the ocean to be apparently alive with porpoises, 
 leaping and gamboling in the most playful maimer. 
 They would frequently leap their entire length out of 
 the water, showing the whole animal at the same time. 
 A little after 5, I again retired to my berth and slept till 
 7, when I arose and found that a smart rain had, in the 
 mean time, set in. The rain continued till 11, when the 
 wind changed to the west and the rain ceased. At noon 
 the clouds were so much broken and dissipated as to en- 
 able Captain Wot ton to get a tolerably good observation 
 of the sun, for ime and latitude. The latitude was found 
 to be 47 Q 57', longitude 41 Q 50', and the distance sailed 
 since the preceding noon, 262 miles. The thermometer 
 
 * The letter was published in the Free Press, July 9. 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 19 
 
 stood, in the air, at 54 Q , and in the water, at 60°. Dur- 
 ing the afternoon the wind continued west, but had in- 
 creased before night to quite a gaie, so that the ship toss- 
 ed and pitched very badly. I retired at half past 9, but 
 slept very little. About midnight I arose and spent 
 some time on deck. I found the sky mostly clear, and, 
 although the wind had somewhat abated, the sea was 
 rougher than it had been at any time since we left New 
 York. 
 
 June 7. Saturday.—Rose just as the sun was emerg- 
 ing from the ocean, but as it was quite hazy in the north- 
 east, there was nothing very remarkable in the appear- 
 ance. The surface of the ocean was not so much chop- 
 ped and broken as it was yesterday, but the sea was 
 running in very large, heavy swells, which caused the 
 ship to pitch and roll nearly as much as at any time be- 
 fore. About 6 A. M. we passed a sail, being the first 
 seen since Thursday. It was at some distance to the 
 northward of us, and was standing towards the south- 
 west. Shortly afterwards I had the satisfaction of see- 
 ing, for the first time, a live Whale. It was judged to 
 be about two miles off. I saw it spout a dozen times or 
 more, and frequently saw parts of its head above the 
 water. It belonged to a small species, which the sailors 
 call the Finback Whale. It was probably the whale 
 called Grampus, {Delphinus grampus.) When it spouted 
 the spray appeared to rise 12 or 15 feet. It is said to 
 be a very shy whale, and that ships can seldom approach 
 near it. About 2 P. M. we passed another sail, 7 
 or 8 miles to the northward of us. The sky has been 
 overcast with clouds most of the day, with the wind 
 nearly ahead and the sea running in long, heavy swells. 
 
20 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 June 8. Sunday. — Two sail in sight, 6 or 8 miles to 
 the southward of us, when I went on deck: morning 
 cloudy, the wind still east, and the sea runnir g in con- 
 siderable swells. 
 
 When I left New York I was not acquainted with a 
 person on board, nor did I know the name of any one 
 excepting Captain Wotton; but I have been gradually 
 ascertaining their names and forming some acquain- 
 tances. Among these is a Mr. Hodgson, from Savannah, 
 Georgia, with his family, consisting of a wife, maiden 
 lady and a servant. They informed me that the Rev. 
 Willard Preston, who was for a short time, President 
 of the University of Vermont, has been their parish min- 
 ister, in Savannah, for the last 17 years. There is also 
 on board a Rev. Dr. Means, from Georgia. Pie is Pro- 
 fessor of Chemistry and Natural History, in a College 
 under the patronage of the Methodists. He intends 
 travelling through England and Scotland, and on the 
 continent for the purpose, principally, of increasing his 
 geological information. 
 
 It is now half past ten o'clock in the evening, and day- 
 light is still very perceptible. Our latitude is about 51 Q 
 our longitude 27 Q , and our distance from New York a 
 little over 2100 miles. The sea has become very much 
 calmed down since morning. 
 
 June 9. Monday. — Left my berth at half past three 
 this morning, and went on deck — cloudy but calm. The 
 sun rises here at this season at about 3h. 45m., making 
 the days sixteen and a half hours long, and giving a 
 strong twilight during most of the short night. Passed 
 a brig at half past four, two miles to the southward of us. 
 During the forenoon the clouds cleared away and the 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. £1 
 
 weather became fine. Noon observations showed our 
 latitude to be 51° 13', longitude 21°27' 3 and distance 
 sailed since preceding noon 2S3 miles. 
 
 Made acquaintance to-day with Mr. Putnam, Bc»k 
 Publisher, formerly of the firm of Wiley & Putnam, New 
 York. He had with him specimens of several new books 
 which he was taking out to England. Among these were 
 the Proceedings of the American Association for the 
 Advancement of Science, at their meeting in New Haven 
 in August, 1850, and the recent work of Dr. Hitchcock, 
 President of Amherst College, entitled, Geology of Reli- 
 gion. The sky became overcast with clouds soon after 
 noon, with a gentle breeze from the west, which has 
 gradually increased to a strong wind, producing no slight 
 commotion in the sea and driving us onward, towards 
 the old world, with great rapidity. At 8 o'clock this 
 evening, the log indicated an advance of 104 miles since 
 noon. 
 
 June 10. Tuesday. — Retired last night at 10, and 
 notwithstanding the tossing of the ship, slept very well 
 till 3 this morning, when I arose, went on deck, found 
 the ship rumsing rapidly before the wind and the weath- 
 er fair, but was prevented from seeing the sun rise by a 
 haziness in the north-east. At 4 A. T.I. the ship's log 
 indicated an advance of 108 miles in the preceding eight 
 hours. Passed two sail this morning between 3 and 5 
 o'clock. By the sun's altitude at noon, our latitude was 
 found to be 50° 19', longitude 13° 55', and the distance 
 run since the preceding noon, 300 miles. 
 
 From what is said above, the ship's progress would, 
 
 at first, appear to have been less rapid from 4 A. M. to 
 
 xoon, than it had been, during the sixteen hours previ- 
 3 
 
22 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 ous, but this arises from the mode of reckoning at sea, 
 the tims between 4 A. M. and noon, in which 88 of the 
 300 miles were ran, being only seven and a half hours. 
 The time at sea is noted by a time-piece, which keeps 
 mean time, and the hands of which are set every day. at 
 n©on, so as to indicate 12 o'clock. If the ship had no 
 motion, noon by the sim, each day, would coincide with 
 12 o'clock by the time-piece, and it would therefore re- 
 quire no alteration. But, if the ship be moving eastward, 
 it will be noon by the sun before it is 12 by the time-piece, 
 to the amount of 4 minutes for each degree of longitude 
 passed over. In going from the United States to Eng- 
 land, our steamships pass over, on an average, about 
 7a c , equal to thirty minutes in time, each day. Hence 
 it is necessary, in order that the time-piece should agree 
 with the noon by the sun where the ship is, that it should 
 be set forward, each day, about 30 minutes. The reverse 
 of this takes place in the return voyage from England to 
 the United States. 
 
 The chronometer seems, now, to be very generally 
 relied upon for longitude, in voyages across the Atlantic, 
 and the laborious process of lunar distances is seldom 
 resorted to. The chronometer constantly indicates the 
 true time at Greenwich, and by the sun's altitude the 
 ship's latitude and time are easily found ; and the ship's 
 time subtracted from the chronometer time, and the dif- 
 ference converted into degrees and minutes, is the longi- 
 tude of the ship, from Greenwich, at the time. 
 
 The wind has gradually veered round, through the 
 north, to the east, and by 4 o'clock this afternoon, was 
 blowing a fresh breeze directly opposite to eur course. 
 It has been, during the day, quite chilly, so much so as 
 
LONDON AND THE GHEAT EXHIBITION. 23 
 
 to render it uncomfortable remaining on deck without an 
 over-coat. The expectation is now prevalent on board 
 that, if no accident befall us, we shall see land before 
 to-morrow night. 
 
 June 11. Wednesday.— Rose this morning about 3 
 o'clock and went on deck just in season to enjoy the 
 most splendid sun-rise I ever witnessed. For the first 
 time, since we left New York, the sky was clear at that 
 point of the horizon, where the sun appeared to emerge 
 from the ocean. At a little height above the horizon, 
 narrow belts and small flocks of clouds, were stretc! .e.l 
 and scattered along the northeastern sky, winch, as the 
 sun arose, became lighted up and tinged in the most 
 gorgeous manner. The various shades, from the most 
 dazzling brightness to hues of u grave and sober aspect/ 1 
 were so arranged and blended, that imagination could 
 hardly conceive any thing equally splendid and beauti- 
 ful. In this case there was none of that distortion of the 
 sun's image by atmospheric refraction, which I have de- 
 scribed, as seen at the sun's setting on the Grand Bank. 
 Indeed, the eye could scarcely detect any deviation, in 
 the form of his disc, from a perfect circle. 
 
 While exulting in the brightness of the sunny morning, 
 and in the anticipation of a charming day, I was sorry 
 to observe that the experienced seamen on board were 
 indulging anticipations of a very different nature. Yea, 
 some of them averred, at the time, that such a sunrise 
 was a certain indication of an approaching storm, and 
 that we might depend upon experiencing one within 
 twenty-four hours. I had no faith in the prediction when 
 it was uttered, but long before noon the sky was com- 
 pletely overcast with clouds, and the fogs and mists were 
 
24 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 seen to be gathering around us and contracting the held 
 of our vision, and about noon the storm commenced with 
 a strong wind from the south. I observed that Capt. 
 Wotton was constantly on deck striving to penetrate, by 
 his vision, tile dense fog which surrounded us, and, about 
 1 o'clock, the intelligence was announced that we were 
 in sight of land. We were close in upon the Sciily Islands 
 and headed directly towards them, and fortunate it was 
 that we reached here by day-light. Had we arrived 
 here in the night, in such a fog, we should have been in 
 imminent danger of running upon these rocky islets be- 
 fore they were discovered. The ship's course was im- 
 mediately changed to the south, and we coasted along 
 for a considerable distance close in upon the islands. 
 These islands appear, through the fog and rain, to con- 
 sist almost entirely of rocks with very little vegetation, 
 and, all around, sharp-pointed rocks are seen projecting 
 above the surface of the ocean. They exhibit, in their 
 sharp pinnacles, abrupt precipices and deep chasms, an 
 outline unlike any thing we have in the northern part of 
 the United States, and one, if I rightly judge, which in- 
 dicates the rocks to be of igneous origin,* although I am 
 totally ignorant of their geological character. 
 
 The storm was raging with considerable violence be- 
 fore we had passed the Sciily Islands and Lizard's Point: 
 and as we passed along, the wind was driving directly 
 towards those rocky shores, and we were so near them 
 that we could plainly see, through the fog and mist, the 
 waves as they lashed themselves into foam upon the 
 
 *Tho correctness of this conjecture, in relation to the geological charac- 
 ter of the Sciily Islands, was afterwards verified by the examination of a 
 geological map of England. 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 25 
 
 rocks and threw volumes of spray into the air. As night 
 was closing in upon us under these circumstances, I 
 became well assured that we were about encountering 
 the most perilous part of our voyage, and, especially, 
 when I saw the sailors busily and silently employed in 
 removing the covering from the life-boats and putting 
 them in readiness for service. I was up till midnight, 
 when, having finished some short letters which I wished 
 to have mailed at Southampton, I went on deck, and 
 was told by-Capt. Wotton that we were just then pass- 
 ing the Edy stone Light-house,* whose light was dimly 
 seen through the fog and storm, which had experienced 
 no abatement. 
 
 June 12. Thursday. — At half past 12 at night, I 
 turned into my berth and slept about three hours, when 
 I arose and found the storm still raging. At 6 A. M. the 
 Franklin's engine was stopped, for the first time, since 
 we left New York, and a pilot was taken on board to 
 conduct the ship into the harbor of Cowes. About 7 we 
 
 * This celebrated monument of the mechanical genius of Smeaton is 
 built uppn a reef of rocks situated outside of Plymouth Sound and 14 
 miles from Plymouth. The reef is 700 feet long and is entirely covered 
 at high tide, and shipwrecks upon it were very common in former times. 
 A light-house was built here in 1696, which was swept away in 1703 
 Inl708 another was built, which was burned in 1755. The present 
 Eddystone Light-house was finished by Mr. Smeaton in 1759. It is 100 
 feet high, the lantern being 72 feet above high water. The stones of"its 
 base are dove-tailed into the rock on which it stands, and each tier of 
 stones is dove-tailed into the tier below, so that the whole shaft is like 
 one stone joined to the rock, and its form is like that of the boll ,or trunk, 
 of a tree, from the root to the limbs. The vertical curve produced by the 
 contraction of the broad base into the narrow shaft, causes the momentum 
 of the waves to be expended in rising up.the side of the shaft, instead of 
 beating, with their full force, against it. 
 3* 
 
26 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 passed the celebrated natural curiosity called the Needles, 
 and entered the channel separating tliG Isle of Wight 
 from the main land. These Needles consist of several 
 sharp pointed rocks, which rise some 20 or 30 feet oxt 
 of the water, at a little distance from the shore, and have 
 very much the form of shark's teeth. The northwestern 
 extremity of the Isle of Wight is formed by a lofty per- 
 pendicular chalk cliff, and the channel between this cliff 
 and the main land is quite narrow. In this channel, at 
 the distance of, perhaps, 20 rods from the foot of the 
 cliff, these Needles are situated. There are three of 
 them, whose bases appeared to be united at the surface 
 of the water, and were evidently formed by the wearmg 
 away of the softer parts ®f the rock, which was, formerly, 
 a prolongation of the point now constituting the chalk 
 cliff. On account of the narrowness of the channel and 
 the many concealed rocks, thG passage of the Needles is 
 considered somewhat difficult and dangerous at certain 
 stages of the tide, and hence the necessity of a pilot, who 
 is well acquainted with the channel. 
 
 Wm- 
 
 The above cut is from a sketch, which I attempted, 
 white passing the Needles, and may give so:*ne idea of 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 2T 
 
 their appearance. My nearness to the objects and the 
 rapid change in the view, rendered it impossible to do 
 justice to the scene. The color of the Needles was that 
 of a gray, weather-beaten limestone. That of the per- 
 pendicular chalk cliff behind them was, very nearly, a 
 pure white. The lower parts of the cliff at the left, 
 had a ferruginous hue, as if stained with iron rust. 
 The top of the cliff was covered with a thin soil, pro- 
 ducing stinted grass. 
 
 It was about 9 A. M. when we arrived in the harbor 
 of Cowes, and about two hours were spent in transfer- 
 ring passengers for England to a little steamer, whieh 
 was to convey them to Southampton, which is on th ? 
 head of an inlet into the main land opposite to Cowes 
 and distant about 15 miles. These amounted to about 
 one half of the whole number of the Franklin's passen- 
 gers. 
 
 Cowes is a small place, but is beautifully situated on 
 a small bay, or indentation, in the Isle of Wight. The 
 ground rises gradually from the ocean for a short dis- 
 tance, and then quite abruptly. The place abounds in 
 shads trves, among which the houses, some of which are 
 elegant, are seen straggling up the acclivity, and the 
 whole, as seen from the water, would furnish materials 
 for a very beautiful picture. To tlie eastward of Cowes, 
 on the main land, lie Gosport and Portsmouth, the 
 great naval station of Great Britain 
 
 At 11 o'clock the Franklin, having taken on board a 
 pilot to conduct the ship into port, was again under way 
 and proceeding towards Havre. The storm, at this 
 time, had considerably abated, and before one o'clock, 
 had entirely ceased. During the afternoon the clouds 
 
28 
 
 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 gradually cleared away and the weather became fine 
 and agreeable. Just after leaving Cowes we had a good 
 view of Queen Victoria's country Palace on the Isle of 
 Wight, called the Osborne House, and at 4 P. M. we 
 had the satisfaction of beholding, in the distance, the 
 coast of France. 
 
 During our voyage, I had endeavored to take notes of 
 our progress, and of our position, from day to day, but 
 having failed of noting some particulars, which I desir- 
 ed, I asked Capt. Wotton if he would allow them to be 
 copied from his Log Book. He readily assented, and, 
 to day, has furnished me with the following interesting 
 Abstract of his Log-Book, from the time of our leaving 
 New York till our arrival at Cowes. 
 
 ABSTRACT LOG. 
 
 
 New York to Cowes — Steam Ship, Franklin 
 
 
 
 JAS. - 
 
 \. WOTTON, COMMANDER. 
 
 Date 
 
 Latitudel Long. 
 
 List. 
 
 Thermo, i Barom. Rotations) Coal. 
 
 Neon. 
 
 Worth. | West. 
 
 Run. 
 
 
 Air. Water Inches.; Engine. 
 
 i 
 
 Tens. 
 
 May 31 
 
 40o 
 
 42'i74« 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Ju 
 
 ne 1 
 
 l 40 
 
 33 .69 
 
 10 
 
 227 
 
 65 
 
 56 
 
 30,00 ' 
 
 16,840 
 
 71. 
 
 
 ' 2 
 
 40 
 
 57,63 
 
 30 
 
 26(3 
 
 56 
 
 50 
 
 29,10 
 
 18,743 
 
 70. 
 
 
 1 3 
 
 41 
 
 40 58 
 
 21 
 
 230 
 
 70 
 
 70 
 
 29,30 
 
 18,957 
 
 69. 
 
 
 < 4 
 
 43 
 
 31 
 
 52 
 
 53 
 
 265 
 
 53 
 
 51 
 
 29,60 
 
 18,762 
 
 68. 
 
 
 1 5 
 
 45 
 
 26 
 
 47 
 
 8 
 
 270 
 
 56 
 
 46 
 
 29,50 
 
 20,445 
 
 67. 
 
 
 1 6 
 
 47 
 
 57 
 
 41 
 
 50 
 
 262 
 
 50 
 
 54 
 
 29,40 
 
 19,830 
 
 69. 
 
 
 ' 7 
 
 49 
 
 44 
 
 35 
 
 36 
 
 273 
 
 60 
 
 70 
 
 29,50 
 
 20,623 
 
 71. 
 
 
 1 8 50 
 
 41 
 
 28 
 
 55 
 
 263 
 
 70 
 
 60 
 
 29,60 
 
 22,777 
 
 69. 
 
 
 < 9 51 
 
 13 
 
 21 
 
 29 
 
 283 
 
 70 
 
 60 
 
 29,60 
 
 21,460 
 
 71. 
 
 
 « 10 50 
 
 19 
 
 13 
 
 55 
 
 300 
 
 60 
 
 56 
 
 29,50 
 
 21,387 
 
 09. 
 
 
 « 11 50 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 55 
 
 278 
 
 60 
 
 56 
 
 29,40 
 
 21,387 
 
 69. 
 
 " 12 
 
 50 
 
 48 
 
 1 
 
 20 
 
 220 
 
 54 
 
 i 53 
 
 29,60 
 
 18,117 58. 
 
 . .. 
 
 
 
 
 3131 
 
 1 
 
 
 1239,328 
 
 b21 
 
 We left New York 
 ed Cowes, June 12th, 
 
 at 2 P. M., May 31st, and reach- 
 at 9 A. M., making 11 days 19 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 29 
 
 hours, from which, deducting 5 hours, for difference of 
 longitude, leaves 11 days 14 hours for the length of the 
 passage. 
 
 In the above table, the amount of coal consumed has 
 appeared more surprising to me than any thing else. 
 Little did I think that a Steam-Ship required the daily 
 consumption of 70 tons of coal, and more than 800 tons 
 in a passage across the Atlantic. The Franklin drew 
 near three feet less water, on her arrival atCowes, than 
 on leaving New York, in consequence of the lightning 
 of the ship by the consumption of her stock of coal. 
 The Franklin's tonnge is about 2500 tons, and hence 
 one third of her full freight must, necessarily, be fuel. 
 
 As we approached Havre, we had a fine view of the 
 chalk cliffs, which form the coast of France, and stretch 
 off from the mouth of the Seine towards the straits 
 of Dover. The shore all along appeared to be quite 
 precipitous, with an undulating country lying beyond, 
 b:it, presenting to the eye no elevations of much height. 
 We arrived in the mouth of the Seine about 7 o'clock, 
 but was half past 8 before the ship was warped into 
 her dock at Havre — so late that I, and many others 
 have concluded to remain on board till morning. The 
 vertical rise of the tide at Havre is 22 feet, and it is on- 
 ly at particular stages of the tide, that ships can conven- 
 iently enter the harbor. 
 
 June 13. Friday. — This morning, for the first time, 
 pressed, with my feet, the soilofcontinental Europe. At 
 8 o'clock our baggage was taken on shore and convey- 
 ed to the Custom House for inspection, and our pass- 
 ports were sent to the Passport office, while I sought a 
 breakfast at one of the Hotelb. After breakfast 1 went 
 
83 JOURNAL OF A TRIPT TO PARIS, 
 
 to the Custom House, and pointed out my baggage, con- 
 sisting of a large trunk and box of specimens of fishes 
 and reptiles for the Museum of Natural History of Paris; 
 when, at it they went, with hammer and chisel, and 
 had the cover off before I could make them listen to 
 any explanation. Their havoc was at length stopped, 
 and. being satisfied of the nature and object of the con- 
 tents, they nailed on the cover again. By the payment 
 of a fee of three francs I got possession of my baggage 
 again, and then went in pursuit of my passport. After 
 waiting at the Passport Office some time for my turn, I 
 was furnished with a passport in French, and was told 
 that I should find my American passport at the office of 
 the Prefect of Police in Paris; and this is done. T under- 
 stand, merely to furnish the officials an excuse for ex- 
 acting a fee of two francs. I spent no time in looking 
 about Havre, but hastened with my baggage to the 
 Rail-Way Station, and secured a passage in the 11 
 o'clock train to Paris. The expenses incurred in the 3 
 hours in Havre, from 8 till 11, gave me a somewhat 
 bitter foretaste of the cost of travelling in France. 
 They were, 3 francs at the Custom House, 2 francs for 
 passport, 2 francs for breakfast, 3 francs for guide. 3 
 for transportation and cab hire, and 2G I for fare of self, 
 and 5 for baggage, to Paris, making in all 43 £ francs, 
 equal to $8,70. I took passage in a First Class car. 
 The second Class cars are respectable and equally 
 comfortable, and, should save some 4 or 5 francs, if I 
 could take passage in one of them, but there were none 
 going up in the train, and I am told that they are quite 
 careful not to run any 2d Class Cars immediately after 
 the arrival of our Steamers, thus compelling all the pas- 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 31 
 
 sengers, who proceed on to Paris, to pay first class fare. 
 
 The train left Havre at 11 A. M., and reached Paris 
 at 5 P. M. The distance is 111 miles, and it was pas- 
 sed over in just six hours, including' the stops at the 
 way stations. The aspect of every thing here is quite 
 unlike any thing seen in the United States. The chalk 
 cliffs at the mouth of the Seine and frequently peeping 
 out along its course — the brown and dingy aspect of the 
 ancient cities of Havre and Rouen, the former with its 
 vast military defences and the latter with its august 
 cathedral — the farms, in the shape of long and narrow 
 parallelograms, stretching up the gentle slope of the 
 sides of the valley and checked by the growing crops, 
 into squares, resembling the patch-work of a quilt 
 — the old and decaying mansions surrounded by con- 
 temptible thatched cottages — these are objects, of which 
 fresh and vigorous New England furnishes no counter- 
 parts. 
 
 The Rail-Way from Havre to Paris has nearly a level 
 grade, and is, consequently, carried through some ten 
 or a dozen tunnels, two of which, I should judge, from 
 the time required to pass through them, to be each about 
 a mile in length. Lamps were kept burning in the tops 
 of the cars, nearly all the way from Havre to Paris, for 
 the purpose of dispelling the darkness and gloom in pass- 
 ing through the tunnels. The rocks in sight along the 
 way appear to be all of the chalk formation, and the 
 tunnels, for the most part, pass through beds of pulver- 
 ulent chalk, filled with flint or hornstone nodules, and 
 are lined with brick masonry. The soil, generally, ap- 
 pears to rest upon vast beds of pulverized chalk. 
 
 On my arrival in Paris, I took lodgings at the Hotel cies 
 
82 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 Elraugers, Rue Tronchet, 24. This hotel is in a cen- 
 tral part of the city, and but a few steps from the great 
 Madeleine Church. It is kept by an Englishman by the 
 the name of Sanders, and is made the stopping place of 
 many English and American travellers, while sojourning 
 in Paris. These circumstances guided my selection, 
 and when I reached the hotel, I found that, at this time 
 there are several Americans here. 
 
 June 14. Saturday. — This morning, about 10 o'clock, 
 I succeeded in finding my way to the residence of my 
 kind friend, Mr. Vattemare, in Rue de Clichy, 58, and 
 had the good fortune to find him at home. Indeed, he 
 was almost literally buried among his books, being en- 
 gaged in packing a large box, to be forwarded to the 
 United States by the Franklin, on the first of July. Mr. 
 Vattemare welcomed me with great cordiality, and, af- 
 ter showing me through his book rooms, he introduced 
 me to his family. He then showed me his very exten- 
 sive collection of coins and medals. The collection of 
 American coins is more complete than any I have be- 
 fore seen, and among these were three or four copper 
 coins, issued in Vermont previous to her admission into 
 the Union. Among the medals were very many, which 
 had been struck in different countries, in honor of Mr. 
 Vattamare himself and his noble system of Internation- 
 al Exchanges. 
 
 About noon we took our seats in an omnibus and 
 proceeded to the Jar dm des-Pla?ites, or Garden of Plants, 
 which is situated in the extremity of the city nearly 
 opposite to that in which Mr. Vattemanfe resides. We 
 first visited the library, where I was introduced to M. 
 Desnoyes, Librarian of the Museum of Natural History, 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 83 
 
 and, after spending a short time there, proceeded to the 
 rooms of the Mineralogical and Geological collections. 
 At the latter place I was introduced to the Professor of 
 Geology, M. de Orbigny, who made me a present of his 
 elaborate Geological Map of the Paris basin. I found 
 him to be a very pleasant and agreeable man, and ex- 
 tremely modest and unassuming in his manners. In 
 the mineralogical department, I noticed some exceeding- 
 ly large and beautiful specimens of meteoric iron. 
 
 Mr. Vattemare having an engagement, we returned 
 between 4 and 5 P. M., and, after getting my dinner, I 
 went alone to see the triumphal arch at the head of the 
 Avenue de Neuilly, called Arc de Triomphe de V Etoile. 
 This is the most magnificent and imposing triumphal 
 arch in Paris, and. probably, is not exceeded by any in 
 the world. It was begun by Napoleon in 1806, but 
 was not finished till 1836. It was erected as a monu- 
 ment of the achievements and glory of the French na- 
 tion. It is built of marble, is 152 feet high, 137 wide 
 an! 6S thick, consisting of two arches crossing at the 
 center. On the exterior, and within the arches, are rep- 
 resentations of warriors, and horsemen, and arms, and 
 battles, beautifully carved in bold relief. From the top 
 of this arch is obtained the most complete view of the 
 whole city of Paris, and a large extent of surrounding 
 country. Its cost was $1,500,000. I could not look 
 upon this noble and imposing structure, without admi- 
 ration, but the pleasure of beholding it, was greatly mar- 
 red by the reflection that, it was designed to commemo- 
 rate and honor the success of armies in bringing misery 
 and destruction, instead of prosperity and happiness, to 
 the family of man. I returned to my lodgings by way of 
 
34 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 Champs Ely sees and Place de la Concorde, which were 
 thronged with people of all ages and sexes, who appear- 
 ed to have no other object, than to amuse themselves and 
 pass away time. 
 
 June 15. Sunday. — My first Sunday in Europe has 
 come and gone, and the shades of its evening are now 
 gathered around me, but how unlike it has been to a 
 Sunday in New England ! None of that solemn stillness 
 — that sacred reverence of the day, to which I had al- 
 ways been accustomed. More, perhaps, were to be 
 seen, in the morning, flocking to the confessional, than 
 on other days, and manual labor was, to a considerable 
 extent, suspended, but the shops were generally open 
 for trade, peddlers were crying their goods for sale in 
 the streets, and many women were sitting at the doors 
 of their shops and upon the shaded side-walks, employ- 
 ed with their needles. 
 
 For the sake of a little exercise before breakfast, I 
 walked out to look at the great Madeleine Church. 
 I walked entirely round it, leisurely surveying the nu- 
 merous and gigantic columns and statues, and then en- 
 tered it to look at the interior, which I found to be ex- 
 ceedingly magnificent, abounding in beautiful columns, 
 and sculptures, and paintings, with a large portion of 
 the ceiling over head splendidly gilded. People were 
 constantly'entering^and departing from the Church, and 
 a considerable number within were silently engag- 
 ed in their devotions. 
 
 This noble edifice has the rectangular form of a Gre- 
 c : an temple, and is without spire, tower or dome. It 
 h built of marble — was begun by Louis XV, in 1764, 
 and finished by Louis XVIII. It is 226 feet long, 130 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 
 
 feet wide, and surrounded by 52 Corinthian columns, G 
 feet in diameter at their base and 60 feet high. All a- 
 round the exterior there are niches in the wall, con- 
 taining sculptured statues oi male and female saints. 
 The great door at the south front is of bronze, and is 32 
 feet high and 15.1 wide. Over it, in the gable, is an 
 immense alto-relievo sculpture, 118 feet long and 25 
 high in the centre, designed to represent the day of 
 judgement. 
 
 At 11 A. M. I attended service at the Chapel of the 
 English Ambassador. This Chapel is very neatly fit- 
 ted interiorly, and will seat, I should judge, between six 
 and seven hundred; and I found it very well filled. 
 Three Clergymen officiated, one reading the lessons and 
 prayers, another the ante-communion service, and the 
 third preached. The sermon was good and practical, 
 but not brilliant, and the musb was thrilling, even in my 
 dull ear. 
 
 At half past 5, I went to Mr. Vattemare's, having re- 
 ceived a note from him this morning, inviting me to 
 dine with him at 6 o'clock this afternoon. This inter- 
 esting family consists of himslf and wife, his mother, 
 son-in-law and married daughter, with one child, a 
 daughter about 16, and a maiden lady about 30 years 
 old. About half past seven o'clock two Roman Cath- 
 olic Priests, one of whom acts as Chaplain to Mr. Vat- 
 temare's family, came in to spend the evening. I pass- 
 ed the time very pleasantly, but most of the company 
 could converse only in French, and my knowledge of 
 that language was too slight to allow me to be much ed- 
 ified by their conversation. I returned to my lodgings 
 about 10 o'clock, and have since been writing down the 
 
36 JOURNAL OF A TRIPT TO PARIS, 
 
 occurrences of the day and reflecting upon the manner 
 in which the Sabbath is here observed. The noise and 
 bustle in the streets, though of a somewhat different 
 kind, seems to be nearly as great, and the number of 
 people greater, than on any of the other days of the 
 week. Indeed, on Sunday all the houses seem to be 
 emptied of their living contents into the streets, and 
 squares, and promonades, some on their way to and 
 from their devotions in the Churches, but a vast majority 
 of them, apparently, seeking only amusement. The ex- 
 hibition of waterworks at St. Clond, 5 miles from Paris, 
 has, to day, drawn off thousands from this city to wit- 
 ness and enjoy it. Indeed, Sunday, here, is the great 
 day for shows, and circuses, and amusements of almost 
 every description. 
 
 June 16. Monday. — Went this morning to the Bourse, 
 or Exchange, and called at the Express office of Liv- 
 ingston & Wells, which is very near it, where I had an 
 opportunity too see recent American Newspapers, and 
 wrote my name in a book, kept there for recording the 
 names and residences of visitors from the United States. 
 The Exchange is a fine modern edifice, built of stone. 
 It is 212 feet long and 12G wide, and is surrounded by a 
 continuous range of 66 columns. At half past ten A. M. 
 I went to Mr. Vattemare's, where I was introduced to 
 Mr. Mohl, Corresponding Secretary of the Oriental So- 
 ciety, and a very distinguished Oriental scholar. About 
 noon Mr. Yattemare went with me to the Hotel de Yille, 
 or city hall, to look at the city library there, and the 
 nucleus of the American library, which he is forming. 
 This beginning of a Library of American books, though 
 a mere trifl? compared with the city library, in the same 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 37 
 
 building, would appear quite respectable in Vermont, 
 being about half the size of that of the Vermont Univer- 
 sity. Mr. V. imforms me that he has the pledge of the 
 authority of Paris, that they will provide a suitable 
 building for his American Library, in a central part ol 
 the city, with an alcove for each State, and the coat of 
 arms of the State placed over it. Mr. V. has, at his 
 rooms in Rue de Clichy, a large quantity of books, which 
 are to form a part of the Library of American books, as 
 soon as rooms are in readiness for their reception. 
 
 From the city hall we went to the celebrated cathe- 
 dral church of Notre Dame, This is one of the oldest, 
 largest and most remarkable churches in Paris. It 
 stands upon an island in the river, which was the an- 
 cient nucleus around which the present city of Paris has 
 grown up. I do not learn when it was commenced but 
 I find it stated that service was performed in it in the 
 year 1185. It is in the form of a cross, is 390 feet, long, 
 144 wide and 102 feet high at the transcept. The tow- 
 ers are 204 feet high, and its immense bell is said to 
 weigh 32,000 pounds. The interior consists of the nave 
 and double isles, and along the sides, are numerous beau- 
 tiful chapels, some of which are sufficiently large for 
 village churches. Its large windows are of stained glass, 
 and the whole interior was much filled and ornamented 
 with pictures, and statues, and crosses, and images. 
 Among the ornamental sculptures of the immense dome, 
 and nearly over the great altar, numerous sparrows had 
 builded their nests and were rearing their young, and 
 their chattering reminded me of the words of the Psalm- 
 ist, 
 
 "The sparrow hath found her an house, where she may lay her young; 
 even thy altars, O Lord of Hosts." 
 
 The great Organ, in this church, is said to be remarka- 
 
BS JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 bly fine, and the west front and towers of the church aro 
 much admired by architects. 
 
 From Notre Dame Church we proceeded to the Halle 
 mix Vins, or the Paris Wine Vaults. These are situat- 
 ed adjacent to the Garden of Plants, and, with the offi- 
 ces of the wine dealers, cover 23 acres. Mr. Vattemare 
 introduced me to M. Sari, the Superintendent, who 
 kindly spent, at least, two hours in showing us through 
 the caves and cellars, and in describing the extent of the 
 business and the manner of doing it, and I must say that 
 I have seen nothing, since I left home, which has aston- 
 ished me more than this establishment. These vaults 
 are capable of containing half a million casks, and the 
 business gives daily employment to more than 3000 
 persons, who are, most of the time, in the midst of the 
 fumes of wine and brandy, and yet it is the most quiet 
 and orderly place I have seen in Paris. The wines and 
 spirits, from the country, are brought here and stored for 
 sale. When sold and delivered, then the Government 
 duties on them are paid, which, I am told, usually ex- 
 ceeds the original value of the article. The method of 
 measuring the liquors is extremely simple, expeditious 
 and exact. The apparatus is so arranged that the casks 
 are drawn upon a platform, and their contents emptied 
 into receiving vessels with graduated scales showing 
 the quantity. The empty casks are let down below, 
 the liquor returned into them, bunged up, and the quan- 
 tity in each cask stamped upon it. On leaving the place 
 the Superintendent kindly engaged to furnish me, while 
 in Paris, additional particulars respecting the establish- 
 ment and an abstract of the actual business transactions. 
 I spent the little time remaining before night, in the Gar- 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 39 
 
 den of Plants, looking at the living animals, (among 
 which I saw very few from the United States) and then 
 returned, very much fatigued, to my lodgings. 
 
 June 17. Tuesday. — This being Flower Market Day 
 at Place de la Madeleine, I walked over there this morn- 
 ing to look at the display of flowers exhibited for sale. 
 I found a large number of people employed in unload- 
 ing, from their carts, flowers and flower-pots, and ar- 
 ranging them in tasteful order, and I was quite aston- 
 ished at their multiplicity and variety. Some were in 
 bouquets, placed in vessels of water, but far the greater 
 part, were accompanied by the whole plants, growing in 
 flower-pots. Among them were numerous varieties of 
 roses, pinks, geraniums, asters, daisies, &c, together with 
 many flowers, which, to me, were entirely new. 
 
 Paris is sometimes called the City of Fashions. I 
 think it might also be called the City of Flowers. Be- 
 sides the flowers brought in from the country and sub- 
 urbs, flowers are cultivated in the city upon almost ev- 
 ery foot of ground, which can be had for that purpose. 
 Flower plots are met with almost every where, and 
 some of them are very extensive and beautiful. Fairs 
 for the sale of flowers are held, at this season, every day 
 in the week. Two days, Tuesday and Friday, of each 
 week, the Fair is at Place de la Madeleine] and I see it 
 stated that, on some occasions, not less than 50, OOOydow- 
 er pots, valued at 75, 000 francs, are exposed, at the same 
 time, in the market place. Selling flowers here is really 
 a great business. 
 
 At 11 o'clock Mr. Vattemare accompanied me to the 
 Garden of Plants, and I took along with me the speci- 
 mens of Vermont Fishes and Reptiles which I had 
 
40 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 brought out for the Museum of Natural History of Paris. 
 Went first to the residence of the distinguished ichthy- 
 ologist, M. Valenciennes, and, finding him sick, proceed- 
 ed to the Museum, where I had my specimens opened, 
 and, on seeing in how bad condition they were, I was 
 well-nigh sick myself. I had been at the trouble to pro- 
 cure specimens of about 30 species of our fishes and 
 some 10 or 12 species of reptiles, and had them inclos- 
 ed in a tin box filled with alcohol, and then soldered up 
 air tight, and this box was inclosed in another of wood. 
 But, notwitstanding all my labor and care, full one half 
 of the specimens were completely spoiled. I had put 
 too many specimens together, and they were so nearly 
 afloat in the alcohol, that the motion of the ship kept 
 them constantly moving and wearing upon one another, 
 and the consequence was, that all the softer fishes were 
 nearly dissolved. The reptiles and hard scaled fishes 
 were in much better condition, and some of them scarce- 
 ly injured at all. 
 
 After disposing of my fishes and reptiles, I took a 
 stroll through the green houses, which are very exten- 
 sive, and well filled with a great variety of tropical plants. 
 I could there walk in the midst of groves of palm trees, 
 35 feet high and 6 or 8 inches in diameter, without en- 
 countering the dangers and inconveniences of a tropical 
 elimfcte. The varieties of cactus, cultivated, are exceed- 
 ingly numerous, many of them being singularly gro- 
 tesque in shape, and gigantic in size. Outside of the green 
 house, on an elevated part of the Garden, stands a no- 
 ble cedar of Lebanon. It was set out here by the elder 
 Jessieu, in 1735, and is now a little more than three feet 
 in diameter, 6 feet from the ground. Its branches are 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 41 
 
 mostly near the top and stretch out horizontally 12 or 
 15 feet in all directions. This tree, together with the 
 palms in the green houses, reminded me of the beautiful 
 figure of the Psalmist, when he says, 
 
 "The righteous shall flourish as the palm tree, and shall spread abroad 
 like the cedar in Libanus." 
 
 From the green houses, I went through the inclosures, 
 in which plants are cultivated in the open air, and was 
 there introduced to the Professor of Botany. These in- 
 closures are very extensive, and the plants are admira- 
 bly arranged and labelled, for facilitating the study of 
 scientific Botany. The label contains the scientific 
 name of the plant, and, if exotic, the country from which 
 it was obtained. From the botanical department, I 
 went into the division occupied by living reptiles, where 
 I remained a while, and then passed along to the muse- 
 um of Comparative Anatomy, in which the celebrated 
 Cuvier labored with so much diligence and success, and, 
 near which, a statue is erected to his memory. I found 
 here many skeletons of Cetacea, but no Beluga, with 
 which to compare my fossil cetacean bones found in 
 Vermont, some of which I have with me. Wearied 
 and footsore, I reached my lodgings about sunset, and 
 thus closed my perambulations for the day. 
 
 June 18. Wednesday. — Took a long stroll alone thro' 
 the northern part of the city, and reached Mr. Vatte- 
 mare's a little before noon, where I met the distinguish- 
 ed naturalist, M. Michili, to whom I had brought out a 
 letter of introduction from Mr. Desor. At one o'clock I 
 went with Mr. Vattemare to the meeting of the National 
 and Central Agricultural Society. Mr. V. introduced me 
 to the President, and to the Secretary M. Delegarde, before 
 
42 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 the meeting was called to order. After the meeting was 
 opened I was formally introduced to the Society as a 
 distinguished foreigner! The discussions were ani- 
 mated, and much interest was manifested in the busi- 
 ness of the meeting, but I was unable to profit by these 
 discussions as I might have done with a better knowl- 
 edge of the French language. After the meeting I was 
 invited by the Secretary, M. Delegarde, to dine with him 
 the next day at 5 P. M. 
 
 On my return, I visited the Lithographic establishment 
 of Lemercier, said to be the most extensive in the world. 
 From one position I could look down upon more than 
 100 lithographic presses all in operation at the same 
 time. Many of the prints were run through, from 4 to 
 7 different presses, receiving a different color from each, 
 and it was really surprising to see the facility with 
 which elegant colored pictures were multiplied and the 
 delicacy with which the colors were laid on by the 
 printing-press. I next went to the Louvre, that world 
 renowned repository of pictures, statues and choice an- 
 tiquities. This noble building is in the form of a quad- 
 rangle, aronnd an open court. Its eastern front is 
 magnificent, being 500 feet long and 85 feet high, and 
 finished in the finest style of architecture. It is in 
 contemplation to have the Louvre fully united with 
 the Tuilleries, forming the whole into one immense 
 block. These two' buildings contain objects of inter- 
 est, for the examination of which, weeks would be re- 
 quired. I have hardly begun to look at them to day. 
 The Garden of Tuilleries is a delightful place. That 
 portion next the palace is beautifully laid out and cul- 
 tivated, with flowers, orange trees <^c, and has several 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 43 
 
 reservoirs and fountains, while more than half of the 
 grounds, is thickly covered with large trees, beneath 
 which the earth is hard and smooth, without veg- 
 etation, and forming delightful walks in a hot day. 
 Among the other objects iii the Garden, are interspers- 
 ed a number of fine statues. 
 
 June 19. Thursday. — Awoke this morning with 
 a very sore throat, and so hoarse I could hardly speak, 
 in consequence, I have no doubt, of a cold, taken yes- 
 terday, while sitting in the great hall of the Agricul- 
 tural Meeting, after exercising under a hot sun. But, 
 notwithstanding these and a severe head-ache, I ven- 
 tured to accompany Mr. Vattemare to a meeting of the 
 Central Horticultural Society of France. I was intro- 
 duced to the meeting, as interested in Horticultural 
 pursuits, and was cordially received. The Society, 
 through the President, presented me their silver medal 
 and requested me to become a corresponding member 
 of the Society. The principal subjects discussed were 
 the diseases of vegetables, and many specimens of dis- 
 eased plants were exhibited. 
 
 On my return from the horticultural meeting, I 
 stopped awhile at the Palais Royal, where I had the 
 pleasure of witnessing the ascension of a monster bal- 
 loon, carrying up six persons in a car suspended under 
 it. There was no wind, and the carriage of the aerial 
 travellers mounted very gracefully through the air. I 
 watched it, till it had reached, at least, a mile above 
 the earth's surface, and then went to look at the an- 
 cient church of St. Germain VAuxerrois. This 
 church is celebrated for being the place from which 
 the signal was given for the commencement of the 
 
44 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 horrid massacre, on the Eve of St. Bartholomew's Day, 
 the 23d of August, 1572. The bells of this church are 
 said to have been tolled, during the whole of that 
 dreadful night. The windows of stained glass, and 
 some of the chapels in this church, are quite beauti- 
 ful. We entered the church just at the close of a re- 
 ligious service, but not in season to hear anything 
 more than the last chant of the confirmation office ; 
 the Bishop having been administering the rite of con- 
 firmation to about 100 candidates, who were distin- 
 guished by their white robes. 
 
 June 20. Friday. — Had a very restless night, with 
 considerable pain in my head and limbs, a hard cough, 
 with soreness in the throat and across the chest, and no 
 appetite for food, — symptoms indicating, I fear, an 
 attack of lung-fever. The prospect of being sick so 
 far from home, is, certainly, not a very agreeable one, 
 but it would be more gloomy, did I uot think that, in 
 case of need, I could rely upon the kind attention of 
 my friend, Mr. Vattemare, and that, if I should die 
 here, he would inform my friends in America of the 
 fact.- But I hope, by the blessing of God, that the 
 necessity of doing neither of these will be imposed 
 upon him, and that I may soon get the better of my 
 present indisposition. 
 
 Feeling that my alternatives were, either to go to 
 bed, or to be moving about in the open air, I resolved 
 upon the latter, and about noon dragged myself to the 
 residence of M. Verneuil, the distinguished Geologist, 
 to whom I brought a letter from Mr. Desor, but was sor- 
 ry to learn that he was away on a geological excur- 
 sion in Spain. I also called at the office of the Amer- 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 45 
 
 icati Legation, and left a letter to our Minister, Mr. 
 Rives, which was entrusted to my care by my friend 
 and college -class-mate, Orson Kellogg, of New York. 
 In the afternoon I made my way to the Biblwtheque 
 da Roij or National Library, on rue Richelieu. This 
 is one of the largest, if not the very largest, library in 
 the world. The building, containing it, is 540 feet 
 long, and 130 feet in width. The contents are stated 
 at 1,000,000 printed books and pamphlets, 100,000 
 manuscripts, 100,000 medals, 1,400,000 engravings, 
 and 300.000 maps. Among the manuscripts, are many, 
 which are very ancient and interesting. I spent some 
 time in turning over the pages and admiring the illus- 
 trations of what is said to be the original manuscript 
 of Froissarfs Chronicles of the Kings of France and 
 England. It is most clearly and beautifully written, 
 with illuminated capitals, and richly bound. Con- 
 nected with the library, there is a fine collection of an- 
 cient statues, armour, coins, &c. I noticed some splen- 
 did ancient cameos, beautifully sculptured, I think, in 
 onyx-stone. Some of them were as large as a com- 
 mon sized breakfast plate, and several were set in 
 frames of pure massive gold. Among the armour were 
 many brazen helmets and coats of mail, which were 
 worn by the ancient Kings of France. 
 
 June 21. Saturday — Was very much fatigued by 
 my efforts yesterday, and retired feeling quite unwell, 
 but, getting a little sleep during the night, I found my- 
 self somo better this morning. I have, however, 
 coughed almost incessantly. Spent most of the fore- 
 noon, with Mr. Vattemare, at his rooms, and in the af- 
 5 
 
46 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 tcrnoon he accompanied me to the Champ de Mars, 
 to witness a review of troops by Napoleon, the Presi- 
 dent of France. Champ de Mars is a clean level plat 
 in the southern part of the city, which is half a mile 
 long and one eighth of a mile wide, and is used for 
 parades, reviews and races. The number of troops re- 
 viewed to day was said to be 20,000. The whole 
 number in and about Paris is near 100,000. I saw 
 Napoleon only at a distance, on horseback, and could 
 discover nothing about him, which would lead me to 
 think him anything more than a man. But. judging 
 from what I hear said, I should think he had been, of 
 late, gaining in the estimation of the better part of the 
 nation, and that they would prefer that he should con- 
 tinue to hold the reins of government, rather than risk 
 the experiment of a change. 
 
 The review did not confirm the favorable opinion I 
 had formed of the appearance of the French troops. 
 The men did not appear to me to be either remarkably 
 well sized, or well trained; nor was there that regular- 
 ity and precision in their evolutions and movements, 
 which I had expected. The horses made a sorry ap- 
 pearance. There were many stout heavy bodied hors- 
 es, particularly those attached to the artillery, but I 
 noticed very few, which moved with the easy and gra- 
 ceful majesty, which are characteristic of many of our 
 American horses. Many of them had that stiff, pound- 
 ing gait, which, in the view of a Yermonter, would, at 
 once, characterize them as French Horses. 
 
 On my return from Camp de Mars, stopped at the 
 Hotel des Invalides. This very extensive establishment 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 47 
 
 is for the reception of superanuated and disabled sold- 
 iers, of whom more than 4000 are here daily fed, and 
 for the most part, lodged, at the public expense. This 
 establishment occupies 18 acres. The main building 
 is 612 feet long, 4 stories high and lighted by 133 
 windows, besides attics. The gilded dome, over 
 that portion occupied as a church, has the richest ex- 
 terior of any one in Paris. Directly beneath this 
 dome is the tomb, in which, are deposited the earthly 
 remains of the Emperer, Napoleon, which were brought 
 hither from St. Helena. I visited the kitchen where 
 the cooking is done for this great family. Every thing 
 seemed well arranged, but on a gigantic scale. The 
 soup-kettles would hold, at least, a barrel each. 
 
 The sight of these shattered specimens of humani- 
 ty, and the consideration of the causes, which brought 
 them to their present condition, were calculated to 
 produce melancholy reflections. Many of these men 
 had carried the arms of France into foreign countries, 
 and had fought and conquered under Bonaparte. They 
 had marched erect, and firm, and irresistible on the 
 field of battle, but now, how changed ! Scarred, and 
 maimed, and bowed down by infirmity and disease, 
 they are tottering towards their graves with weak and 
 trembling steps. Many of them have lost a hand, or 
 a foot, or a leg, or an arm, and some of them have bar- 
 tered more than one of their limbs for the glory of a 
 victory under Napoleon. Arranged in the yards of 
 the establishment are many large cannon, which are 
 preserved, as trophies of foreign victories. In these 
 
48 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 the enfeebled veterans proudly exult, and, among them, 
 they daily, in imagination, 
 
 "Fight all their battles o'er again." 
 
 JVne 22. Sunday. — A rainy day; and my cough be- 
 ing very bad, have not attended church. There has 
 been a great display of Water- Works to day at Ver- 
 sailles, and many Americans went out this morning to 
 witness them. Versailles is 12 miles southwest from 
 Paris, and the two places are connected by two Rail- 
 Ways. The palace, picture galleries and fountains at 
 Versailles are said to be ths most remarkable in France. 
 The playing of the fountains there takes place only a 
 few times in the course of the year, and thes? exhibi- 
 tions, I am told, are almost always on Sunday, so that 
 protestant travellers must, for the most part, either fore- 
 go the pleasure of seeing them, or do violence to their 
 consciences by breaking the Sabbath. To pass through 
 all the rooms and galleries of pictures at Versailles, is 
 said to require a walk of 7mi'es. 
 
 JuNt; 23. Monday. — At Havre my American pass- 
 port was taken from me, and I was furnished with a 
 French passport to be taken with me to Paris. Hence 
 
 jt becomes necessary, on leaving Paris, to regain my 
 American passport, to enable me to go out of the coun- 
 try, and proceed to England. For this purpose I went, 
 to day, to the office of the Prefect of Police, where 1 
 surrendered my French passport, and received the one 
 which was taken from me at Havre, with instructions 
 to have it certified by the American Secretary of Le- 
 gation, and then brought back for further signature at 
 the Police office. I followed the '^•struct ions, so far 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 40 
 
 as to get the signature of the Secretary of Legation, 
 but, believing that it was ordered back for further 
 signature at the Police office, only for the purpose of 
 claiming another fee of two or three francs, I have 
 determined to disobey that part of the order, and risk 
 the consequences. 
 
 In the afternoon I went to Mr. Vattemare's rooms, 
 and, thence, through a portion of the north part of the 
 city, where I passed a parade ground, and had an op- 
 portunity of witnessing the maneuvering and drilling 
 of a division of the French troops. There were, per- 
 haps, 12 or 15 hundred on the parade, in several dif- 
 ferent squads. The evolutions and exercises were, to 
 a considerable extent, unlike any thing I had ever wit- 
 nessed in America. Most of the movements were 
 very sudden and violent, and yet there seemed to be 
 great exactness and precision in all the performances. 
 Junk. 24. Tuesday.— Have visited, to day, the Pal- 
 ace and Gardens of Luxembourg, the Pantheon, &e. 
 These are all situated in the southern part of the city. 
 The Gardens occupy, I should judge, about 40 acrea. 
 The Palace fronts them on the north side, and is a 
 large and elegant building, but, being situated lower 
 than the grounds in front, it does not exhibit that 
 grand and imposing aspect, it might have under other 
 circumstances. It was built by Marie de Medicis, in 
 1015. In 1795 the Directory held its sittings in this 
 Palace, and under the Consulate, the Consuls had their 
 sittings here. On the creation of the Chamber of Peers, 
 in 1814, it became the place of their meetings. It 
 contains a picture gallery, for the reception of the best 
 
50 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 works of living artists, which are purchased and plac- 
 ed here by the government. In front of the Palace is 
 a fountain and a beautiful pool of water, and the gar- 
 dons furnish delightful promenades, with shady ave- 
 nues, lined with fine marble statues. The broad and 
 smooth avenue, leading from the front of the Palace, 
 through the garden, and onward, in a strait line, to the 
 National Astronomical Observatory, is very handsome. 
 It was in this avenue, between the garden and the 
 observatory, that Marshal Ney was shot, in IS 15. 
 The southwestern section of the garden, is devoted to 
 the cultivation of fruit trees, — mostly cherries and 
 pears. The cherries are now ripening, and the young 
 pears average, in size, a trifle larger than a ripe cherry. 
 The pear trees are all trained in the form of sharp 
 cones, which the French call Quenouillo (distaff) 
 training. The trees appeared to be about 8 feet apart, 
 and might average 12 feet in height. The lowest 
 hmbs, in most cases, come out about 18 inches above 
 the ground, and extend, horizontally, two or three feet. 
 They are shortened, by cropping in above, giving the 
 tree the shape of a cone. The advantages of this, ov- 
 er the ordinary method, seem to consist in allowing 
 more trees to grow on the same plat, and in making 
 them more productive, in consequence of the horizon- 
 tal traiuing of the limbs. 
 
 From the Luxembourg I went to the Pantheon, 
 which is situated only a few rods to the eastward, in 
 Rue St. Jacques. It was finished in 1764, and I lock 
 upon it as one of the most chaste and classic structures 
 in Paris. It is in the form of a cross, being about 330 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 51 
 
 feet long, 240 wide, and 282 feet to the top of the 
 dome. The columns are very numerous, the whole 
 number, within and about the edifice, being stated at 
 258. The interior, which is all in one vast room, 
 reaching upward to the crown of the dome, appears 
 quite naked, there being only a few statues and paint- 
 ings within, but these are of a high order. It was in 
 this building, with a ball, suspended by a wire from 
 the center of the great dome, and vibrating near the 
 floor, that M. Faucault first demonstrated the earth's 
 rotation on its axis, by rendering it visible to the eye. 
 His apparatus is still here, but the ball is not suspend- 
 ed. His graduated circle is in the form of a hoop, 
 and elevated about 20 inches from the floor. Its di- 
 ameter is-about 14 feet. 
 
 June 25. Wednesday. — Having fixed upon to-mor- 
 row for my departure from Paris, I have spent most of 
 the day in making hasty calls. I called, first, upon 
 Mr. S. G. Goodrich, the American Consul, by whom I 
 was introduced to his wife and daughter. Called at the 
 residence of the American Minister, but he was away, 
 
 and did not see him. Called also and took leave of 
 my kind friend, Mr. Vattemare, and went, for the last 
 
 time, I suppose, to the Express Office of Livingston & 
 Wells, to look at the Register of American names and 
 the files of American Newspapers. 
 
 During my stay in Paris, I have observed many things 
 which were novel to me, and of which I had hoped to 
 note some account in my journal, but have not, hither- 
 to, found any time ; nor have I time now to call them to 
 mind and write them out, But, as I expect to leave Paris 
 
52 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 to-morrow, I will here record a few general remarks. I 
 have found things very different here from what I had 
 been accustomed to, at home, but no more so than I had 
 expected. Indeed, I have experienced much less annoy- 
 ance and trouble from government surveillance and po- 
 lice regulations, than was anticipated. Soon after I took 
 lodgings at the Hotel des Etrangcrs, mine host sent to 
 my room for my passport, which was returned in the 
 course of half an hour, and that was the only inquiry, 
 which has ever been made for it; and that inquiry was 
 in consequence of a regulation, which imposes a consid- 
 erable penalty on keepers of public houses, who do not 
 furnish proof that the foreigners, who have taken lodg- 
 ings with them, are in the possession of regular pass- 
 ports. 
 
 In Paris, and, indeed, in all parts of France, I think 
 Americans, generally, are treated with more respect 
 than the people of any other foreign country, and to this 
 general friendly feeling towards Americans, mors than 
 any thing else, I attribute the kind attentions I have re- 
 ceived during my sojourn here. 
 
 The mode of living and manner of eating here, differs 
 very much from ours. With us, at our principal meals, 
 a considerable variety of dishes, is usually brought upon 
 the table, at the same time, but here, seldom more than 
 one or two. With some exceptions, the dinner courses 
 are nearly as follows : first a roil or piece of bread is 
 placed by the side of each person's plate, then comes 
 the soup. The dishes being removed, then is brought 
 the Jish — then the mutton or lamb — then therm/ — then 
 beef — then the fowls — then the potatoes — then the salad 
 then the pudding — then the strawberries or other fruits 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 5S 
 
 — then the cheese — and lastly, the coffee. The wine 
 runs freely through all the stages. When tea or coffee 
 is taken, morning or evening, each one has his own tea 
 or coffee pot, from which he pours out and seasons, 
 with sugar and cream, to his own liking. The bread I 
 have usually found to be of good quality, but the loaves 
 are often of singular forms. The common bread is mostly 
 in rolls, about three feet long and four inches in diame- 
 ter, resembling, in form, a huge war-club. It is com- 
 mon to have one, or more, of these standing in thecorner 
 of the room, with the lower end resting on the floor, 
 while pieces are cut, as they are required, from the upper 
 end. When piled upon a hand-cart and wheeled through 
 the streets, a; is frequently done, they would be mis- 
 taken at a little distance, for a load of round wood. The 
 butter is usually brought upon the table, entirely fresh, 
 and each person salts, what he eats, to his taste. Board 
 and lodgings may be had at almost all prices, depend- 
 ing upon kind, place and circumstances. I have had a 
 comfortable room with good board and bed, at the Hotel 
 des Etrangers ) for $1.50 per day. 
 
 The conveyances to different parts of Paris are conve- 
 nient, under good regulation, and the charges moderate. 
 Omnibusses run through all the principal streets and to 
 various public places, and the charge for any distance 
 within the city, is only six sous. Besides these, great 
 numbers of coaches and cabs are waiting at different 
 stations, which may readily be had for any special ser- 
 vice. These are paid by the hour, distance, or places 
 of stopping. The authorized charge per hour, is thirty 
 sous for the first, and twenty-five for each subsequent 
 hour. The cabs are all numbered and the drivers arc 
 
54 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 under the strict surveillance of the police. On entering 
 the cab, the driver gives you his number, and then, if 
 you are any way maltreated by him, you have only to 
 hand the number and state the case to a police officer, and 
 the driver is called at once to give an account of himself. 
 
 Among the interesting places in Paris, the Place de 
 la Concorde is the most central and beautiful. It has 
 Champs-Ely sees on the west, and the Tuillcrics on the 
 east. Ths north is covered by two immense symmetri- 
 cal buildings occupied by the government, and the south 
 by the Seine, over which a handsome bridge leads to the 
 palace of the National Assembly. The Place de la Con- 
 corde measures 750 feet from north to south and 528 from 
 east to west. It is surrounded by groups of statues and 
 .sunken gardens, and is splendidly lighted by night. with 
 gas. In the center stands the granite obelisk of Luxor, 
 covered with hieroglyphics, on each side of which, at a 
 little distance, are beautiful fountains, which are kept 
 playing during the day and evening. The device of 
 these fountains is somewhat fantastical, consisting of 
 human figures, supporting above them, a large basin, 
 and each holding a dolphin under his arm, from whose 
 mouth a stream of water is ejected upward over the head 
 of the statue into the basin ; over the rim of which, it 
 flows down into the reservoir at the base. 
 
 At the time of my visits to the Garden of Plants, I 
 noted, in my journal, very little respecting the wonders 
 of that vast and interesting establishment, intending to 
 be more particular when I had become better acquaint- 
 ed with it. But my indisposition has, in a great meas- 
 ure frustrated my intention. The Garden of Plants is, 
 I believe, under the control of the Minister of the Inte- 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 55 
 
 rior. It consists of six general departments, viz : 1. — A 
 Botanical Garden, with spacious green-houses; 2. — Gal- 
 leries, in which are arranged vast collections, belonging 
 to the three kingdoms of Nature ; 3. — A Gallery of Com - 
 parative Anatomy ; 4. — A Menagerie of living Animals; 
 5. — A Library of Natural History ; 6. — An Amphithea- 
 tre and Labratory, for Public Lectures. The Lectures, 
 two or three being delivered daily, from April to the end 
 of August, are all gratuitous. 
 
 Among the multifarious employments of the people of 
 Paris, there is one which has afforded me no small 
 amusement. Very early each morning, the streets and 
 side walks are all swept, and the dirt and rubbish gath- 
 ered mto little piles along the gutters. This is no sooner 
 done, than sundry persons, male and female, with bas- 
 kets suspended upon their backs, and sticks in their 
 hands having a croaked nail in the end, may be seen 
 passing from heap to heap, and snatching various little 
 articles with their hooked nail, and whirling them dex- 
 terously over their heads into the basket. These are 
 called Chiffonniers, or Rag-gatherers. They pick out 
 and carry off, not only the rags, but the smallest scraps 
 of paper and bits of bone. Large numbers are said to 
 pursue this business for their living ; but scanty — very 
 scanty, methinks, must be the pittance of those who rely 
 upon it. 
 
 June 26. Thursday. — Having adjusted matters with 
 "mine host" I proceeded to the Rail-Way station, and 
 at 9 this morning, took my final leave of Paris, and 
 arrived at Havre at half past 2 this afternoon. Here I 
 am to remain till half-past 10, and then leave in a Brit- 
 ish steamer for Southampton. 
 
56 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARI?, 
 
 As I passed up the Seine to Paris on the 13th of June, 
 I observed that the farmers were just beginning to cut 
 their hay, and to-day, as I came down, they seemed to 
 be in the very midst of their haying. In my rapid flight 
 through the country, I had little chance to observe the 
 growing crops. Rye seemed to predominate for some 
 distance below Paris, and from thence to Rouen I noticed 
 some fine orchards of plums, cherries and pears, and 
 between Rouen and Havre, a few good apple orchards. 
 I have observed, to-day, several extensive fields devoted 
 to the cultivation of mustard. It is just beginning to 
 ripen, and there appears to be a very heavy growth of 
 it upon the ground. 
 
 I have spent my time, since my arrival, in wandering 
 about this ancient city. Havre is a town of considerable 
 size, and of great commercial importance, on account of 
 being the chief sea-port of Paris. The docks and ac- 
 commodations here, for shipping, are quite extensive, 
 and are still being enlarged. They are separated from 
 the river and bay by a long line of fortifications. The 
 docks are of great, depth, inclosed by massive walls of 
 hewn stone, which are very compactly filled behind 
 with gravel and nodules of flint, from the chalk forma- 
 tion. Much difficulty is, however, encountered in en- 
 tering the docks, on account of the great and rapid riso 
 and fall of the tide, which has a sweep of 22 feet, be- 
 tween high and low water mark. Large vessels are, 
 frequently, obliged to wait, in the bay, several hours, 
 bsfore they can enter the docks, or come to land. Just 
 within the docks, there is an extensive range of buildings, 
 erected by government for soldier's barracks, but used, 
 in part, I am told, for a prison. 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 57 
 
 The Franklin was lying in her dock, where I left her 
 two weeks ago, with the stars and stripes floating grace- 
 fully over her. I went on board, where I found one of 
 the mates, the purser and the engineer, comfortably 
 seated in the beautiful dining saloon, taking their dinner. 
 I was cordially invited to partake with them, but was 
 obliged to decline, on account of having just dined on 
 shore. It reaUy seemed almost like getting home, to be 
 ones more on board of an American skip. Capt. Wot- 
 ton, I was informed, left Havre this morning, for Paris. 
 
 In the lower and older parts of Havre, the streets are 
 narrow, dirty and disagreeable, and all the buildings 
 have the appearanse of great antiquity. But, in the 
 newer and higher parts, and, particularly, upo:«i the 
 rising grounds towards the north-west, which overlook 
 the city, there are many large and elegant buildings, 
 and delightful residences, surrounded by beautiful shade 
 trees and gardens. I came on board the steamer a little 
 after sunset, and now, having completed my few notes, 
 I shall pack myself away in my berth, and await the 
 hour of departure. 
 
 June 27. Friday. — I was very fortunate, last night, 
 in coming on board and in retiring early to my berth, 
 fir I, thereby, secured an indifferent nap before the 
 steamer started, and a good berth for the whole night, 
 which less than half were able to do, on account of the 
 gznallness of the boat, and the great number who crowd- 
 ed on board. I was somewhat aroused by the noise and 
 confusion occasioned by the preparations for departure, 
 and in getting under way, and I have some faint recol- 
 lection of seeing two stern looking men, inofficial habit, 
 one holding a lantern, who shoved aside the screen in 
 
58 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 front of rny berth, and demanded my passport. I very 
 submissively banded it to them, and, after looking at it 
 a moment, they returned it to me and quietly retired, 
 By my great day's work, yesterday, I had got exceed- 
 ingly fatigued, and the fatigue, together with an almost 
 incessant cough and stricture across the lungs, prevent- 
 ed my getting any sound sleep during the night, and 
 yet, I was so dozy and stupid, that I was hardly aware 
 that the steamer was under way till morning ; but when 
 I arose, about sunrise, I found that I had, not only taken 
 my leave of France, but was, already, out of sight of 
 land. 
 
 During my stay of 14 days, I have seen only a very 
 small portion of the country ; but that small portion is 
 an important one, and shows very conspicuously in the 
 annals of France, and of Europe. Paris is literally the 
 nucleus — the heart — the city of France, and all the rest 
 of France has been aptly designated as its suburbs. 
 The beats and spasms of this heart, like that of the hu- 
 man system, are felt in the utmost and minutest ex- 
 tremities of the nation. 
 
 Rouen and Havre — the lower valley of the Seine, 
 that granary of ancient Normandy, — to the former 
 greatness and importance of these, the pages of history 
 bear ample testimony ; but these are now all over- 
 shadowed by the Great Metropolis. About eight hun- 
 dred years have now elapsed, since William, Duke of 
 Normandy, passed over these waters, which we are now 
 traversing, — landed in Sussex — fought the battle of 
 Hastings — seated himself on the throne of Britain — and 
 became William the Conqueror. What changes have 
 since taken place ! what events have since transpired ! 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 59 
 
 As we passed along, on our way to Southampton, we 
 had a charming view, on our left, of the Isle of Wight 
 — its high chalk cliffs and smooth grassy lawns — its 
 gentle hills and vallies and its delightful groves — its 
 neat cottages and splendid mansions; and on the right, 
 of Gosport and Portsmouth, and a beautiful line of coast 
 stretching off to the east. The two principal places 
 seen on the Isle of Wight are Rye and Cowes. Between 
 these, on elevated grounds, stands the Queen's new 
 Palace, called the Osborne House. It commands a fine 
 view of land and water scenery, and appeared to good 
 advantage, as we passed it this morning, lighted up and 
 burnished by the rising sun. 
 
 It was about 8 o'clock in the morning, when we ar- 
 rived at Southampton, where I first set foot on the soil 
 of England. As I was to leave at 9, in the cars for 
 London, I had my baggage, after being inspected, con- 
 veyed directly to the Rail- Way station, while I pro- 
 ceeded thither on foot. On my way I was beset by the 
 greatest number, and most importuning gang of runners 
 from public houses, that I have ever encountered. In 
 walking from the dock to the station, I had no less 
 than seven cards thrust into my hands, setting forth the 
 superior advantages of as many hotels. After seeing 
 my baggage safely deposited, I went into the nearest 
 public house, whose card read 
 
 "For Plain Breakfast, ... Is., 
 For Dinner, 2s. 6d. &c." 
 
 and called for a plain breakfast. I was informed that it 
 was ready, and was conducted into the eating-room, 
 where I found a table set with bread, butter, and some 
 
GO JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 joints of cold meat. The table appeared quite naked, 
 to be sure, but as bread and butter and black tea usu- 
 ally constitute my bill of fare. I made no words about 
 it. but sat down, ordered a cup of tea and commenced 
 eating. In the mean time, others came in and seated 
 themselves at the table, to the number of near a dozen. 
 Having eaten some bread and batter and a small slice 
 of cold mutton, and drank two cups of black tea, I rose 
 from the table, and handed out a shilling to pay my bill; 
 but was told that a shilling only paid for a plain break- 
 fast, and I had eaten some meat, and mast, therefore, 
 pay Is. Sd. I was somewhat surprised at the demand, 
 but, as it was the first meal I had eaten in England, 
 and as 1 had no authorative means of determining the 
 true meaning of a plain breakfast here. I handed over 
 the additional eight pence, and took my leave. Nearly 
 or quite all of my companions at the table, partook 
 sparingly of the meat, but, whether they knew, at the 
 time, that they were partaking of something superior to 
 a plain breakfast, or learned it afterwards, when they 
 came to pay their bills, I did not wait to ascertain. 
 
 I had only a few moments to look about Southamp- 
 ton, but in that time I observed that some improve- 
 ments were being made, and that there was a very 
 extensive dock in the course of construction. I left in 
 the cars, at 9, and reached the London station, near 
 Waterloo bridge, about 1 P. M., passing through a level, 
 highly cultivated and charming country. The growing 
 crops promise, I should judge, a good harvest, and the 
 farmers are now generally, engaged in securing their 
 hay. The fences are, mostly hedge, and the hedges, 
 I think, generally hawthorn. The distance from South- 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. SI 
 
 amptoii to London is 80 miles by Rail- Way, and the 
 fare, in second class cars, $3. The grade is very level, 
 and no tunnels are required, in which respect, it differs 
 from the Rail-Way between Havre and Paris. As in 
 France, so do people here of high respectability, ride in 
 second class cars ; but in England the second class cars, 
 though very comfortable, are not cushioned. In France 
 they are cushioned, but not so richly as those of the 
 first class. Both in France and England, the cars are 
 entered on the sides, and not at the ends, as in the 
 United States, and the seats reach across them, like 
 those of a coach. The cars generally carry 20 or 2*5 
 persons each. 
 
 On reaching the Waterloo station, in London, I pro- 
 cured a cab, and proceeded directly to Morley's Hotel, 
 Trafalgar square. I found that my friend, Henry Ste- 
 vens, Jr., Esq , from Vermont, was still stopping here, 
 but that, being on one of the juries for the award of 
 prizes at the Great Exhibition, he was, at the time of 
 my arrival, employed on that business at the Crystal 
 Palace. He returned about 4 o'clock, and I was re- 
 ceived by him very cordially, but was sorry to learn 
 that no letters, directed to his care, had been received 
 for me, from my friends in America. Learning that 
 mails for the United States are made up and forwarded 
 from London, every Saturday, I finished several letters, 
 which I had commenced in Paris, and committed them 
 to the Pest.* I find myself, this evening, very much 
 fatigued, and quite unwell, with no appetite for food. 
 The inflammation of my lungs and cough, which have 
 
 * One of these, to the Editor of the Burlington Free Pre3S, was pub- 
 lished in that paper on the 10th of July. 
 
 6* 
 
62 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 afflicted me, since I took my severe cold in Paris, have 
 been considerably aggravated by the heat and dust, on 
 the way from Southampton to London, and, I fear that 
 the smoke and dust of London are not doing very much 
 to improve them. 
 
 June 28. Saturday. — Committed, this morning, to 
 her Majesty's penny post, those letters, which I had 
 biought out with me, and which I did not expect to 
 deliver, personally. At i 1 o'clock, went out to call upon 
 the distinguished British Naturalist, to whom I had 
 letters of introduction from my friends, Prof. Aagassiz 
 and Dr. Storer of Boston. Not finding him at heme I 
 left my letters, packages and address. In the after- 
 noon I called, with like success, at the Museum of the 
 Geological Survey, with letters and a package from 
 Prof. Agassiz, for Prof. Forbes, and, at the British Mu- 
 seum, the same for Mr. Gray. They were both away 
 at the Crystal Palace at the time. 
 
 I have seen, yet, only a very little part of London — 
 scarcely any thing beyond what is immediately around 
 Trafalgar Square, upon which delightful place, I am 
 now looking down from the windows of Morley's Ho- 
 tel. This square measures, I should judge, about 25 
 rods by 15, and was formed during the reign of 
 George IV, by clearing away an irregular cluster of old 
 buildings, and narrow streets, and alleys. It is now 
 surrounded by good buildings, Morley's Hotel occupy- 
 ing the east side, the National Gallery of Painting and 
 Sculpture the north, the College of Physicians and the 
 Union Club House the west, and the Northumber- 
 land House the south. At the northeast corner of the 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 63 
 
 square, stands the handsome church of St. Martin' 
 in-t he- Fields. The whole square is paved with large 
 slabs of Portland stone, and contains two fountains, 
 which play during the day and evening, each being 
 surrounded by a large basin, or reservoir. The north- 
 ern part of the square is considerably elevated above 
 the southern part, and the descent, from the former to 
 the latter, is by stone steps. On the higher part, tow- 
 ards the northeastern corner, stands a fine equestrian 
 statue of George IV, and it is said that there is to be 
 a corresponding statue towards the northwestern corn- 
 er. Nearly midway in the south, or lower side of the 
 square, stands 
 
 "A monumental pile, 
 Designed for Nelson of the Nile! 
 Of Trafalgar and Vincent's heights — 
 For Nelson of the hundred fights." 
 
 This column, surmounted by a statue of Nelson, sur- 
 passes any other in London. Its total height is 176 
 feet, of which, the statue of Nelson makes 18 feet. 
 The column is of granite, and fluted. Upon the four 
 sides of the square pedestal, are placed, in bronze 
 baso-relicvo, representations of Nelson's four great bat- 
 tles, viz: St. Vincent, Copenhagen, Nile and Trafalgar. 
 On the south side are the memorable words of Nelson — 
 England expects every man to do his duty. 
 
 June 29. Sunday. — Yesterday, as I was in front 
 of Morley's, in the midst of the mingled and incessant 
 noise and jar, and roar of the city, sweet notes of music 
 struck clearly upon my ear, as if proceeding from a 
 hand organ, or some other musical instrument, very 
 near me. I looked around me, but could not discover 
 
64 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 whence it came, and it was some little time before the 
 fact was revealed to me. that these sweet tones pro- 
 ceeded from the bells in the tower of St. Martin's-in- 
 the-Pield. This church has an excellent chime of 12 
 bells, and their peal was continued, yesterday, for an 
 hour, without intermission. To day, it commenced 
 at 10 A. M. and continued till 11, the time of com- 
 mencing morning service. I learn from Leigh's Pic- 
 ture of London, that Nell Gwynne, who was buried 
 in the yard of this church, left a legacy, for the ex- 
 press purpose of paying for th<? ringing of its bells. 
 
 This church, being but a few steps from Morlcy's, 
 where I am stopping, I concluded to attend its servic- 
 es, and, at 11 A. M. proceeded thither. I made my 
 way through the crowd into the broad aisle, but found 
 it, and all the pews, completely filled. I remained 
 standing in the dense crowd, till the services were 
 abcut half ever, and then, wearied with standing, and 
 almost suffocated, I made my way out, and returned 
 to my rccm. In the afternoon I went there again 
 and found no difficulty in getting a good scat, the 
 house being not more than half filled. At this time I 
 was able to join, understanding^, in the services of the 
 church, which I could not do in the morning. The 
 sermon was not splendid, but good. This church was 
 erected just 125 years ago, and is regarded as one of 
 the best parish churches in the Metropolis. It is built 
 of stone, 140 feet long, 60 wide, and, the body of the 
 church, 45 feet high. Its steeple is very lofty and im- 
 posing, and contains a good clock and, as already 
 mentioned, a chime of 12 belbs. It has a handsome 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 65 
 
 portico of eight Corinthian columns, and is approach- 
 ed by a long flight of stepSi The interior is very beau- 
 tiful, and the organ, which was presented by George 
 III, is regarded as very excellent. 
 
 After church service I took a long walk with my 
 friend, Stevens. We passed through St. James' Park, 
 Green Par!: and Hyde Park, making a circuit entirely 
 round the ( Crystal Palace; so I have had an outside view 
 of the world-famed structure, but have uot yet seen 
 the interior. We found all the parks alive with swarms 
 of men, women and children, gossiping and promen- 
 ading in the open air. Being fatigued by our long 
 walk, we returned, in an omnibus, toTafalgar Square; 
 and, being obliged to take an outside seat, and the ev- 
 ening air being chilly, I fear I may have added to my 
 cold, as my lungs seem much inflamed and my cough 
 almost incessant. 
 
 Junk 30. Monday. — Went this morning, to the Mu- 
 seum of the College of Surgeons, at Linccln's-Inn- 
 Fields, with my letters aud package for Prof. Owen, 
 and, not finding him at his rooms, I left them, togeth- 
 er with my card, and then spent some time in looking 
 at the articles in this interesting museum of Compara- 
 tive Anatomy. On my return from the museum, I 
 called upon I.Ir. Yarrell, from whom I had received a 
 note, but too late for me to accept the invitation it con- 
 veyed to me, to breakfast with him this morning. I, 
 this time, found him at home, and he invited me up to 
 his rooms, to look at his collection of birds and fishes. 
 It is not extensive, but embraces a large proportion of 
 the British species, and the specimens are very neatly 
 
66 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 and prettily prepared. Went, just at night, and deliv- 
 ered letters to Mr. Markham, on Upper Gower Street, 
 Mr. Atkinson, on Gordon Square and Miss Whitby, on 
 Queen, s Square. 
 
 July 1. Tuesday. — Called at No. 11, Harley Street, 
 with my letters and package for Sir Charles Lyell, and, 
 being informed that he was away, left them, and was 
 passing out into the street, when the servant called to 
 me that he had arrived, and requested me to walk into 
 the house again. I returned, where I met Sir Charles, 
 who informed me that he was going down immediately 
 to Ipswich, to the meeting of the British Association, 
 and, at the close of that meeting, it was his intention, to 
 go over to the continent on a geological excursion. 
 Fearing that my presence might incommode him. under 
 these circumstances, I remained but a few moments, 
 and then took my leave, expecting to see him again at 
 Ipswich, during the meeting of the Association. In the 
 afternoon I visited the House of Lords, in the New Par- 
 liament House, in which the Court of Appeals was 
 then in session. It is a most splendid room, the ceiling 
 being gorgeously gilded, and the seats cushioned with 
 the richest crimson velvet. There was a very little 
 rain this morning, but the weather, during the day, has 
 been hotter and more oppressive than I have felt it any 
 time since I arrived in Europe. My cough continues 
 very severe. 
 
 July 2. Wednesday. — Coughed badly this morning, 
 and raised some blood from my lungs, as I have done 
 several times before, since I took my severe cold in 
 Paris. At 10 o'clock I entered, for the first time, the 
 Crystal Palace. My expectations had been raised pret- 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 67 
 
 ty high, with regard to this building, and its contents, 
 but the reality, I think, fully equals them. There is 
 not, however, within, that sense of greatness, or vast- 
 ness, which one is le^d to expect from seeing it on the 
 outside, and knowing its measurements. But this is, 
 probably, owing to the many partitions, and divisions, 
 and to the great number, and magnitude of the articles, 
 which occupy the interior. I first took a hasty look 
 through the department occupied by the articles from 
 the United States, which is at the east end of the 
 building, and then passed along one side of the nave 
 to the west end, and returned on the other side. I 
 found the United States' Department, as had been rep- 
 resented, appearing rather vacant, and yet I saw many 
 good things there. The nave and transept contain 
 several beautiful fountains, which are kept constantly 
 playing, and there are, arranged throughout the whole 
 extent of both, a succession of fine statues and other 
 choice specimens of sculpture. Among these, connect- 
 ed with the American division, I noticed, with satisfac- 
 tion, Powers' Greek Slave and Sanderson's Wounded 
 Indian. In these fine specimens of art, Yermont may 
 claim some interest, since the sculptor of the former, 
 and the marble of the latter, are both natives of our 
 Green Mountain State. Who ever thought, when they 
 saw Hiram Powers, playing his boyish gambols on the 
 banks of the Ottaquechee. at Woodstock-Green, in 
 Windsor County, that in him was that creative power, 
 which would, one day, call forth from the shapeless 
 marble, that perfection and grace of form, attitude and 
 expression, which are exhibited in his Greek Slave and 
 other works ? Certainly, I did not. My examination 
 
C3 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 of the articles on exhibition, have been so hasty and 
 limited, that I shall not attempt to give particulars at 
 present. 
 
 To-day, occurred the last Exhibition, for the season, 
 ol Flowers, at the Royal Botanical Gardens, in Re- 
 gent's Park. This morning, I received a note from my 
 kind friend, George Atkinson, Esq, accompanied by a 
 Ticket for the Exhibition, from Mrs. Atkinson, who 
 insisted upon my attending, as it would give me a bet- 
 ter opportunity to see the manners, dress and equipage 
 of the higher ranks and nobility, than I might other- 
 wise expect to have. I reached the Gardens about 4 
 P. M,, where I spent something more than an hour, as 
 pleasantly as was possible, in the existing state of my 
 health. The display of rare plants and gay flowers, 
 was exceedingly great — equalled only by the beauty, 
 and dress, and equipage of the wealth and aristocracy 
 of London, here assembled to witness it. The number 
 of persons at the Gardens was estimated at 10,000, and 
 the number of carriages at 1,500; and these, nearly all, 
 belonged to the upper lltoitsands. The display of richly 
 caparisoned horses, of gilded and glittering carriages, 
 and of liveried coachmen and waiters, far exceeded 
 any thing I had before seen. The flowers exhibited, 
 were not only very numerous and varied in kind, but 
 appeared remarkably fresh, large and perfect. There 
 was an excellent band of music in attendance, which 
 added much to the animation and pleasure of the exhi- 
 bition. On my return to Morley's, I found that Prof. 
 Forbes had called and left his card for me; and found, 
 too, a note from my Vermont friend, W. F. Shattuck, 
 Esq., who has been spending some time in London. 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. M 
 
 July 3. Thursday. — Wrote and sent off letters in the 
 morning, and at 12 o'clock made my first call on the 
 American Minister, the Hon. Abbott Lawrence, that be- 
 ing the hour at which he receives company. He received 
 me very cordially, and offered to furnish me with tickets 
 to the Royal Observatory, and some other places, if I 
 wished to visit them. On taking my leave, he request- 
 ed me to call again, on my return from Ipswich, to 
 which place, I had told him, it was my design to pro- 
 ceed this afternoon, in order to attend, at that place, the 
 meeting of the British Association for the Advancement 
 of Science. 
 
 Having returned* to Morley's, I settled my bill, 
 amounting to about £4 for six days, and, with my trav- 
 elling-bag, containing a few articles, proceeded to the 
 station of the North- Eastern Rail-Way, at Shoreditcb, 
 which I reached in season for the 5 o'clock train, and 
 proceeded by it to Ipswich, 68 miles, where I arrived 
 between sunset and dark. Understanding that the pub- 
 lic houses were much crowded, on account of the meet- 
 ing of the Association, and the visit of Prince Albert to 
 Ipswich, I took tea and lodging for the night, at a pri- 
 vate boarding house, and bespoke a breakfast in the 
 morning. 
 
 July 4. Friday. I arose this morning, quite early, 
 and finding none of the people of the house up, I walked 
 out to look at the city, and, after passing through a 
 number of streets, returned and obtained my breakfast 
 about 8 o'clock. On inquiring the terms upon which I 
 could have board and lodging during my stay in Ips- 
 wich, I was told that the charge would be 5s. a night 
 
 for room and bed. and from Is. to 35. a meal, according 
 7 -6 
 
m JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 to what I had. Regarding these charges as somewhat 
 extravagant, I paid for my two meals and lodging, and 
 resolved to make inquiries elsewhere. 
 
 While at London, my friend, Mr. Yarrell, had given 
 me a letter to George Ransome, Esq., the local Secretary 
 of the Association at Ipswich, and I, therefore, proceeded 
 immediately to his residence, where I was introduced to 
 several members of the Association, and generously fur- 
 nished with a ticket, giving me free admission to all the 
 meetings. Before proceeding to the reception ropm, 
 however, I called upon Prof. Forbes, at his boarding 
 place, by whom I was introduced to Prof. Sedgwick, 
 Prof. Phillips, Prof. Airy, and some others. 
 
 The Association, for the reading of papers and oral 
 discussions, is divided into six or seven sections. There 
 is a kind of informal general meeting at the reception 
 room in the morning, and at 11 o'clock the sections pro- 
 ceed to their respective rooms in different parts of the 
 city, where they usually continue in session till 4 P. M. 
 Under these circumstances, one almost covets ubiquity, 
 to that extent, at least, which would enable him to be 
 present in more than one section at the same time ; but, 
 as I could not hope this, I concluded, from what appear- 
 ed on the programme, that I should be most interested 
 and benefitted by the proceedings of the Natural History 
 Section, D, and I attended it accordingly. 
 
 The papers read, and the subjects discussed in this 
 section were generally interesting, but the most impor- 
 portant paper was that of Prof. Forbes, on the geograph- 
 ical distribution of molluscs. Just before the reading of 
 this paper, there was a loud clapping at the door, and, 
 immediately afterwards, eight or ten gentlemen entered 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. TO 
 
 the hall, and were seated on the right of the chairman. 
 One of these was Prince Albert. After the reading of 
 the paper, they arose and retired. The Prince came 
 down to Ipswich, yesterday, in the morning train. As 
 I came down in the afternoon, flags were flying at all 
 the stations, and every body was praising Prince Albert. 
 Over the principal streets in Ipswich, triumphal arches, 
 formed of trees and leafy boughs and flowers, had been 
 erected, and splendid flags, bearing mottos and devices, 
 complimentary to the Prince and the Queen, were wav- 
 ing over them. 
 
 After the adjournment of the Section, I went with the 
 multitude, to see the Prince use the trowel, in laying the 
 corner-stone of a large building, which is about being 
 erected for the accommodation of the public Grammar 
 School of Ipswich. The number of spectators present, 
 was judged to be seven or eight thousand. After a few 
 ceremonies and short addresses, a prayer was offered up 
 by the Rector and Head-Master of the School, and then 
 the Prince took the trowel, spread the mortar, and, the 
 stone being let down upon it, he very gracefully rapped 
 it down with the handle of the trowel, adjusted the mor- 
 tar around the edges, and that closed the ceremony. 
 
 The reception committee having kindly provided me 
 lodgings, at the house of the Rev. Mr. Greenfield, 2d 
 Master of the Grammar School, I proceeded thither, after 
 the above ceremonies, and found my accommodations 
 very comfortable, and the family, consisting only of Mr. 
 G. and his wife, a newly married couple, to be very 
 agreeable. At 8 P. M., I went to the Corn Exchange, 
 to hear a public lecture, upon the line of distinction be- 
 tween animals and plants, by Prof. Owen; and a most 
 
71 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 interesting lecture it was. He pointed out, with admi- 
 rable clearness, the lines of demarkation, which h?.ve 
 heretofore been proposed, and showed that while most 
 of them were true, to a very considerable extent, no one 
 of them was universally true. Lumens' distinction 
 was that, — Minerals grow ; Plants grow and live ; Ani- 
 mals grow, live, feel and move. This is generally true ; 
 and yet some animals are rooted as firmly as plants, 
 and some marine plants have the power of locomotion, 
 and other plants give as much evidence of feeling as 
 many animals. Again — Plants exhale oxygen and in- 
 hale carbonic acid ; while animals inhale oxygen, and 
 exhale carbonic acid ; generally true, but not universally 
 so. Again — Plants are composed of carbon and hydro- 
 gen — two elements; animals of carbon, hydrogen, oxy- 
 gen and nitrogen — four elements ; true also, with regard 
 to most plants and animals, but not to all. Once more 
 — Plants have no stomachs, but animals havs stomachs, 
 hi which their food is digested and prepared for their 
 nourishment ; this, again, is generally true, still, there 
 are exceptions. 
 
 But I will not here dwell upon the subject. The lec- 
 ture was, on the whole, a very interesting and instruct- 
 ive one, and his illustrations presented many new views 
 to my mind. By tracing various plants and animals 
 through their different stages of development, from the 
 incipient embryo, up to the perfect individual, he illus- 
 trated the various " interlock ings " of the lower orders of 
 the two kingdoms, and thus showed the extreme diffi- 
 culty of drawing any definite general line of demarka- 
 tion between them. The frog, the aphis and the medusa. 
 were examples ©f animals, whose developments were 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 
 
 traced. In case of the aphis, and medusa, and some 
 others, he showed that they produced animals unlike 
 themselves, and that animals so produced, produced an- 
 imals unlike themselves, and so on, through a consider 
 able circuit, till at length the original form was repro- 
 duced. This process, he proposes to call Mctagejiesis, 
 in distinction from Metamorphosis, in which, change of 
 form arises chiefly from casting off exterior coverings. 
 
 As the Association has determined to spend to-morrow 
 in scientific excursions, in different directions, I concluded 
 to join the party, which is to proceed down the Orwell 
 and along the sea-coast, for the purpose of looking at the 
 Red and Coralline Crag, and London Clay formations, 
 and, for that purpose, I have taken a ticket, for which I 
 paid as. 
 
 July 5. Saturday. — Having taken a ticket for the 
 excursion down the Orwell, as mentioned yesterday, I 
 went down to the steam-boat landing soon after break- 
 
 st, and at 9 A. M., our party, consisting of about 150, 
 were closely packed on the deck of the little steamer, 
 the River Queen, and the paddles were put in motion. 
 This steamer is a small narrow boat, of, perhaps, half 
 the tonnage of the old Winooski, on Lake Champlain. 
 We were, consequently, all very near neighbors. The 
 tide was out, and the water confined to the channel 
 of the river, which is very narrow and very crooked, 
 and hence, its navigation must require much care and 
 experience, when the tide is in and the banks concealed, 
 on account of the difficulty of keeping the channel. The 
 river now appears no wider than our Winooski, below 
 the lower falls. When the tide is in, it is, generally, 
 half a mile, or more, wide. More than half the passen- 
 
 (* 
 
It JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 gers were obliged to stand, there being no places for 
 them to sit down, and they stood so thick that it was 
 almost impossible to get from one part of the deck to an- 
 other. As we proceeded down the Orwell, I saw thst 
 >Sun-fishes, or Medusa, were very numerous and very 
 beautiful. Sometimes, three or four could be seen moving 
 gracefully through the water, by their contractions and 
 expansions. Herons, ducks, and various kinds of water- 
 fowls, were quite numerous along the flats, which were 
 left bare by the ebbing of the tide, which has here a 
 sweep of rise and fall, as I am told, of sixteen feet. On 
 our way down the river, Prof. Phillips mounted the 
 rostrum, (that is, the bulkhead over the gang-way,) and 
 gave us a very interesting lecture, on the geological 
 character of the localities we were about visiting, and to 
 me it was yery opportune, as it enabled me to learn, and 
 enjoy, much more of the things I was about to see, than 
 I otherwise could have done. After dwelling for some 
 time upon the general Geology of this part of England, 
 and giving some account of the three principal deposits, 
 lying above the chalk formation, viz : the London clay, 
 the Coralline crag and the Red crag, he said he would 
 suspend his remarks, till he came in sight of the crag 
 and clay, along the coast. At Harwich, which is an 
 ancient town of considerable size, lying at the mouth of 
 the Orwell, twelvo miles from Ipswich, several of the 
 passsngers landed, for the purpose of accepting an invi- 
 tation, which had been extended to the members ©f the 
 Association, from that neighborhood. 
 
 Leaving Harwich, we proceeded out to sea, and along 
 the coast, toward the north. The shore gradually be- 
 came more elevated as we advanced, and at Felixstow, 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 74 
 
 consisted of a narrow gravelly beach, back of which 
 the clay and crag rose precipitously, 30 or 40 feet. There 
 having been some deep cutting made recently, in this 
 neighborhood, some 30, or 35, of the party landed for the 
 purpose of examining the geological structure more mi- 
 nutely. I felt quite desirous of being one of the num- 
 ber, but, as it would be necessary to walk some four or 
 five miles, or more, in order to be taken on board, on 
 the return of the boat, and, as I felt too unwell to think 
 it prudent to undertake it, I continued on board. The 
 crag, as it showed itself in the bank, along the shore, 
 appeared, generally, about 12 or 15 feet thick, and the 
 London clay, some part of the way, showed an equal 
 thickness below. Between Felixstow and Bawdscy- 
 Ferry, at the mouth of the Debcn, are the remains, 
 of a Roman burial ground and some old Roman works 
 which have been exposed by the inroads of the ocean. 
 The ocean, all along this coast, is wearing it away; and 
 it is this action of the ocean, which causes the abrupt- 
 ness of the shore, and exposes the edges of th? crag and 
 clay formations. The materials of the wear, are all 
 drifted southward, and are found to be rapidly accumu- 
 lating, in several places. Quite extensive tracts have 
 been worn away, along this coast, within the historic 
 period, and places, which were formerly accessable with 
 large ships, can now be approached only by light craft 
 on account of the shallowness of the water. 
 
 At Bawdsey-Ferry, some more of our party went on 
 shore, to remain till our return, but a majority still re- 
 ma ; ned on board, and proceeded up the river to Rams- 
 holt, where the boat was moored. After partaking of 
 the excellent refreshments, which had been provided for 
 
75 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 the occasion, the whole party went on shore, and spent 
 about an hour in clambering among the Crag-cliffs, 
 examining the arrangement of the different deposits, and 
 collecting specimens. The specimens found in the crag, 
 are very interesting, consisting of a great variety of 
 shells of molluscs, fragments of the bones of whales and 
 land quadrupeds, the teeth of sharks, echinoderms and 
 corals of different kinds. There are, also, layers of ma- 
 terials, in some places quite abundant, which consist of 
 rounded, cylindrical, ovoid masses, varying from one to 
 five or six inches in length, and from half an inch to 
 two inches in diameter. These little masses are found, 
 on analysis to consist of from 50 to 75 per cent, of phos- 
 phate of lime; and, the phosphate of lime being a great 
 fertilizer of soils, these are sought after with great avidity, 
 to be applied to lands, as a manure ; and I was told that, 
 not less than a thousand tons are collected, annually, in 
 this neighborhood. These little masses have acquired 
 the name of Coprolites, and are regarded as a kind of 
 native Guano; but the name of Coprolite, as a general 
 name for them, is thought, by many naturalists, to be 
 here misapplied. Some few of the masses have the sjiiral 
 structure, which is characteristic of the Coprolite, and 
 may be such, but, for myself, I must say that, I think 
 the proportion of true Coprolites among them, is quite 
 small. I am disposed to regard them simply as concre- 
 tions, which have been aggregated, in the same manner, 
 as we see them formed in the clay-beds along the shores 
 of Lake Champlain. That the phosphate of lime, which 
 forms the principal part of these concretions, has been 
 derived from the disintegration of animal bones, is very 
 probable : but that all these rounded masses, or even a 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 76 
 
 large part of them, have passed through the stomachs, 
 and received their form in the intestines of animated 
 beings, is, certainly, not generally indicated in their 
 structure. Indeed, the arrangement of their materials, 
 indicates, in many cases, a very different origin. I 
 broke and examined the structure of a great number of 
 them, and, in very many cases, I found these cylindri- 
 cal, ovoid masses, to be composed of concentric layers, 
 formed around a capillary cavity, extending in the di- 
 rection of the longest diameter of the mass, precisely in 
 the same manner, as we see them arranged in the con- 
 cretions of our own brown clay. I mentioned my view 
 of their concretionary character, to Prof. Phillips, and 
 found that he was inclined to the same opinion. 
 
 On our way back from Ramsholt, we had several 
 very interesting lectures, in relation to the objects 
 which we had seen, and which lie along the the line 
 of our excursion. The chief speakers were, Profes- 
 sors Phillips, Forbes, Sedgwick and Owen. Prof. 
 Phillips is the most fluent speaker of the four, but 
 they all spoke well, and to the purpose. Though 
 speaking, for the most part, of realities and facts, they 
 did not fail, occasionally, to give zest to their speeches, 
 by the intermingling of a little humor and anecdote, 
 and occasionally to draw a fancy sketch, which would 
 produce a universal burst of applause. Prof. Sedg- 
 wick drew one of these, which I would like to have 
 been phonographer enough to have taken down in 
 short hand. It was in relation to the origin and char- 
 acter of the green sand, London clay, and crag forma- 
 tions ; but I shall make no attempt to repeat it. I 
 will, however, say this much; — from the character of 
 
7 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 the fossil bones, and other remains, he inferred that, 
 at one period, turtles were exceedingly abundant ; and 
 that, if turtle abounded, there must be large cities, 
 in which aldermen abounded, to eat them. He also 
 attributed the color of the green sand formation, to 
 the green coloring matter of the green fat of the tur- 
 tles ; and he might have, also, inferred that, the so- 
 called caprolites, were formed from the phosphate of 
 lime, derived from the bones and shells of the turtles. 
 Prof. Owen stated, that one of the shells of Molluscs, 
 found in the red crag, had given name to a whole 
 race of men — the Hottentots, of South Africa, Hot- 
 tentot being the Dutch name of a shell, and signify- 
 ing that it is left-handed. But, whether the Hotten- 
 tots are generally left-handed, or not, he did not inform 
 us. He, however, said that, while the fossil shells of 
 this species were, generally, heterostroph, their de- 
 scendants had somehow or other righted, or reversed 
 themselves, and were now, nearly all, right-handed. 
 He further stated, that from the fossil bones and teeth, 
 obtained from the crag, he had been able to make out 
 seventeen distinct species of quadrupeds. Among 
 these, were a rhinoceros and several kinds of deer. 
 Shark's teeth abound in the crag, some of which, 
 judging from the proportion which the teeth of the 
 living species of sharks bear to the animals, must have 
 been about 60 feet in length. Prof. Forbes, also, made 
 some very interesting remarks, respecting the crag and 
 clay formations. 
 
 Although the ships employed about Harwich are 
 generally small, their number must be very great. 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 78 
 
 While on the ocean, in the neighborhood of Harwich, 
 I counted 97 vessels, of various kinds, all of which 
 were in sight at the same time. A large part of the 
 shipping, I was told, is employed in raising from the 
 bottom of the shallow sea a deposit, which, when car- 
 ried away and properly prepared, is used for cement, 
 or water lime. We arrived at Ipswich, about 6 P. M., 
 after a day, in which I have learned very much of 
 things concerning which, I knew very little before — 
 a day in which I have had nothing to mar my enjoy- 
 ment, but the want of good health. My cough has 
 been exceedingly troublesome, and I have suffered 
 considerable from pain in my side and chest ; and the 
 occasional coughing up of a little blood, has not serv- 
 ed to stimulate me to very great exertion, in climbing 
 the crag banks, nor has it served to give much buoy- 
 ancy to my spirits ; still, I have enjoyed much, and 
 learned some things, although I have, at the same 
 time, suffered. Joy and pain, so far as concerned my- 
 self, have been very closely associated, during the 
 day. Neither of them has, at any time, been very 
 far off. 
 
 July 6. Swiday. — Attended Divine service, fore- 
 noon and afternoon, at the nearest parish church, and 
 heard two excellent sermons from two different cler- 
 gymen : but I have not learned the name of the church, 
 or of either of the preachers. The forenoon's ser- 
 mon was on Pilate's interrogative, " What is truth?" 
 and that in the afternoon, on the 11th verse of the 
 3d chapter of the 2d Epistle of Peter — " Seeing that 
 all these things shall be dissolved," &c. Both the 
 
79 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 discourses were very well written, and the emphasis 
 and intonations of the speakers were good ; but there 
 was no gesticulation, excepting a nod of the head. 
 Neither of them raised his hand from the cushion, 
 during the discourse. Both the preachers made very 
 particular reference to the meeting of the British As- 
 sociation, now in session here ; and both discoursed 
 very properly upon the relation and correspondence of 
 the book of nature with the book of revelation — of 
 the harmony of religion with true science. 
 
 July 7. Monday. — This morning, after breakfast, 
 I proceeded to the reception-room, where I obtained 
 a programme of the proceedings for the day ; and, 
 judging from the titles of the papers to be read, that 
 1 should derive most benefit from attendance in the 
 geological section, I proceeded to their room. Papers 
 were read before this section, by Messrs. Owen, Bow- 
 erbank, Forbes, Lyell and Logan. Mr. Bowerbank's 
 related to the fossils of the London clay and the crag> 
 and he exhibited shark's teeth from those formations, 
 and from existing species, and, also, drawings, for the 
 purpose of comparison. He stated, that the largest 
 living species was found in the East Indies, and that 
 it sometimes obtained the enormous length of 37 feet. 
 He exhibited some of the teeth of this large shark, 
 with a drawing of its head and jaws, and also some 
 of the fossil teeth found in the crag, with an ideal 
 outline of a corresponding head, and showed that, if 
 we may judge of the size of the ancient shark, from 
 the size of its teeth, as compared with the living spe- 
 cies, we must conclude that it was about 65 feet long. 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 81 
 
 The name, given to this fossil species, is Carcaris 
 megaladon. We can conceive, that it wouJd hardly 
 be necessary for such a shark, to make two bites in 
 devouring a man. The papers of Prof. Forbes and 
 Sir Charles Lycll, both related to the fossils of the 
 crag. Mr. Logan's paper related to the geology of 
 Canada, and particularly to the copper-heaving rocks 
 of Lake Huron. He exhibited before the section, a 
 slab of sandstone, on which the foot-prints of a rep- 
 tile, probably a tortoise, were distinctly impressed, 
 and, also, a cast of another slab, some 7 or 8 feet long, 
 on which similar tracks were shown, throughout its 
 whole length. From its position, in reference to the 
 well-known rocks in the neighborhood, Mr. Logan 
 regards this sandstone, in which the tracks are found, 
 as the Pottsdam sandstone of the New York geolo- 
 gists, which is at the bottom of the Silurian series, or 
 the oldest known fossiliferous rock. If this be so, it 
 proves that vertebrated animals existed at the very 
 earliest period, in which we find any proof of the ex- 
 istence of either animal or vegetable life. In the 
 evening, Prof. Airy, the Astronomer Royal, gave, at 
 the Corn Exchange, a very interesting lecture upon 
 the total eclipse of the sun, which is to occur on the 
 28th inst. He illustrated the subject of solar eclipses 
 very fully, by apparatus and diagrams, and gave a par- 
 ticular account of some interesting phenomena, ex- 
 hibited to different observers, of the eclipse of 1842. 
 His lecture occupied 1J hour. 
 
 July 8. Tuesday. — After breakfast, went to the 
 8 
 
82 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 reception-room, and not finding on the programme 
 any papers announced in which I felt very deeply in- 
 terested, and learning that this was the last day of the 
 session of the Association, I concluded to return to 
 London. I accordingly took the train, which left 
 Ipswich at half-past 9 A. M., and arrived in London 
 about 1 P. M. The country between Ipswich and 
 London is very delightful, being slightly undulating, 
 and well cultivated. The soil, I should think, was 
 not naturally very strong, or rich : it appears, how- 
 ever, to be made, by artificial means, cpiite productive. 
 The subsoil seems, in most places, to consist of flint 
 pebbles. 
 
 The city of Ipswich has quite an ancient appear- 
 ance, and contains a considerable number of old 
 churches. Excepting at the corners, which are of 
 brick, or hammered stone, these churches are. for the 
 most part, built of nodules of flint, which have been 
 derived from the chalk formation, and which give the 
 buildings a very singular appearance. The nodules 
 arc laid in mortar, which is almost as hard f<s stone. 
 The outsides of the walls are generally composed of 
 halves of spherical nodules, which have been broken 
 in the middle into two parts. The flat surface of the 
 section is placed outward, forming the surface of the 
 wall of the building ; and, as these flints are of all 
 shades, from perfect black to white, the exterior ©f 
 the churches appear to be covered with circles of dif- 
 ferent colors, and generally about three or four inches 
 in diameter. In some cases, regard is had to the ar- 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 83 
 
 rangement of the different shades of color ; but, gen- 
 erally, they are placed promiscuously, without any 
 regard to order. Ipswich appears to be a place of con- 
 siderable business, but the streets here are very still 
 and quiet compared with London. There is consid- 
 erable shipping on the Orwell, but the craft is mostly 
 small. There is not sufficient depth of water for 
 large vessels, excepting at high tide, and then only 
 along a narrow channel. There are very few elegant 
 buildings in Ipswich, but the city has a population 
 of about 35,000. 
 
 On my arrival in London, I was very much grati- 
 fied in finding letters from my wife and children, da- 
 ted about three weeks after my departure from Bur- 
 lington ; but I was sorry to learn that, like myself, 
 my dear wife was suffering from an inflamation of the 
 lungs, and hope that, ere this, she has recovered from 
 it. In the course of the afternoon, I called upon Mr. 
 Markham, to whom I had brought letters, from Mr. 
 Whitby, of Burlington; and he aided me in procuring 
 lodgings, where I now am, and where, I think, I shall 
 get along quite as comfortably, and at much less ex- 
 pense, than at any of the large hotels. And, besides 
 the saving of expense, which with me is not a trifling 
 consideration, I expect to derive several advantages 
 from my present location. I shall be where the 
 streets are broad and clean, and, comparatively, out of 
 the noise, and smoke, and dust ■ which last, I think of 
 considerable importance, in the present condition of 
 my lungs. And, besides, I shall be as near the Crys- 
 
84 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 tal Palace, as I was at Moiley's ; not more than half 
 so far from the Zoological Gardens, and in the imme- 
 diate vicinity of the British Museum. My number 
 is 23, Euston Place. 
 
 July 9. Wednesday. — My new lodgings, though not 
 furnished in the most elegant or sumptuous manner, I 
 find to be quiet and comfortable, and, as to other things, 
 it matters little, as I can hardly expect either the Queen, 
 or Prince Albert, will call upon me here. This morning, 
 took over the bones of my fossil whale, to the Museum 
 of Practical Geology, and, with Prof. Forbes, compared 
 them with the vertebrae of a cetacean, obtained by Mr. 
 Logan, from the Laurentian clay, at Montreal. There 
 can be little doubt that his and mine belong to the same 
 species. His fossils consist only of vertebras, and, be- 
 tween them, and the corresponding vertebrae in my 
 specimen, no important difference could be discovered. 
 I then, by adrice of Prof. Forbes, took the fossils over 
 to the Museum of the College of Surgeons, at Lincoln's 
 Inn-Fields, in order to submit them to Prof. Owen ; but, 
 as Mr. O. was out, I left the bones, and intend calling 
 again, to-morrow. From this interesting Museum of 
 Comparative Anatomy, after spending some little tims 
 in looking about, I went to the National Gallery of 
 Painting and Sculpture, on Trafalgar Square. I was 
 much impressed by some of the pieces of RafTaelle, 
 Guido and Rubens. The works of these three artists 
 are generally excellent, but they are quite unlike. Ru- 
 bens' pieces are distinguished for their bright colors, and 
 particularly for the use of red, which might lead one to 
 suppose that the name, Rubens, was derived from that 
 circumstance. The picture, which produced the deep- 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 85 
 
 est impression on me, was Raffaelle's " Murder of the 
 Innocents." It seemed as if the whole scene was passing 
 before my eyes — as if I could see the agonizing struggles, 
 and hear the shrieks of the despairing mothers, as they 
 clung, with desperate energy, to their babes — as if I 
 could see the convulsions and distortions, and hear the 
 screams of the frightened and suffering and bleeding 
 children, as the fierce and cruel executioners of Herod 
 were tearing the little innocents from the arms of their 
 mothers, and murdering them before their eyes. There 
 seems to be reality and truth in the whole scene, and, in 
 spite of me, it drew tears from my eyes. There are por- 
 tions of a picture, by Rubens, called " Peace and War," 
 which are exceedingly life-like and touching. Among 
 the Statuary arid modern Paintings, there are many 
 of great skill and excellence. But I profess to be no 
 connoiseur in the fine arts, and shall not attempt to par- 
 ticularize beauties or defects. 
 
 This evening, the City Corporation give a grand ball 
 to the Queen. Only the nobility and most distinguish- 
 ed personages, are invited, and yet, my friend Stevens 
 had an invitation, and is there. He associates, here, 
 with the best classes and highest ranks of society. He 
 probably received his invitation, in this case, in conse- 
 quence of being one of the Jurors, for awarding prizes 
 and medals, at the Great Exhibition. The ball takes 
 place at Guildhall, which is in, what is called, the city, 
 in distinction from the town or metropolis ; and as the 
 Queen resides in Buckingham Palace, in St. James' 
 Park, Trafalgar Square is between the two, and being 
 there a little after 8 o'clock, and, observing the streets 
 
 to be densely lined with spectators, on both sides, 
 
 8* 
 
86 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 watching the opportunity to see the Queen pass, I min- 
 gled with them, thinking I might be allowed the privi- 
 lege of a est, which may look upon a King. After 
 waiting till nearly 9, the retinue passed along, in the 
 midst of which was a carriage more splendidly gilded 
 than the rest, carrying the Queen and royal consort. I 
 saw just enough to enable me to say, that I have seen 
 Her Majesty, and that is all. On account of the dark- 
 ness and obscurity in which she was involved, in her 
 carriage, at this time in the evening, I could obtain no 
 better knowledge of her countenance, or features, than 
 I should obtain of a Turkish beauty, whom I should 
 meet in the streets of Constantinople, and who did 
 raise her veil. But I saAV as much as thousands of 
 others did, who went home, exulting that they had 
 seen the Queen. The card which Mr. Stevens received, 
 was a very splendid thing ; and it was accompanied by 
 full directions in regard to the dress, which was to be 
 worn. Every gentleman must wear a white cravat, 
 and no lady could be admitted in a black gown. The 
 gates were to be closed as soon as Her Majesty arrived, 
 and none of the company could leave till she retired. 
 
 July 10. Thursday. — Galled at Morley's in the 
 morning, where I met my friend, J. Howard, Esq., of the 
 Irving House, New York, and who informed me that he 
 expected to go home in the Atlantic, which was to leave 
 Liverpool on the 23d inst. Also, saw my friend, Stevens, 
 who gave me some acsount of the last night's ball. 
 From Morley's I went to the Museum of the College of 
 Surgeons, where, with Prof. Owen, I compared my fos- 
 sil bones with those of the arctic living species, the Be- 
 luga leucas. There was not a perfect agreement, but 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 87 
 
 the differences were not sufficient, in the opinion of 
 Prof. Owen, to justify the formation, from it, of a new 
 species. He was not willing to pronounce a positive 
 opinion, hut I have little doubt that he regarded it as 
 identical in species, with the living Beluga hums. It 
 appeared to me to agree as nearly with almost any one 
 of the heads of the living species, above named, as they 
 agreed among themselves. The number of teeth in them 
 is & not uniform. On my way to my room, I was caught 
 in a shower, and not having my umbrella, got consider- 
 ably wet. Between 3 and 4 we had another smart 
 thunder shower. 
 
 July 11. Friday.— Called at Morley's this morning, 
 and found there a note from Mrs. Atkinson, inviting me 
 to take coffee with them at 9 o'clock, P. M., but on ex- 
 amination found it to be dated July 9th— two days ago. 
 From Morley's, I passed down by Wesminster Abbey, 
 and took a stroll around Millbank Penitentiary, and a 
 look at its exterior : and, it may be thought, I was very 
 fortunate, that I did not get in, to examine its interior. - I 
 learn from the books that, this is the largest penal estab- 
 lishment in England, and its exterior shows it to be of 
 vast extent. It consists of six pentagonal buildings, sur- 
 rounded by a lofty octagonal brick wall, inclosing an 
 area of sixteen acres. Six acres of this space are occu- 
 pied by the buildings and yards, and nine acres are laid 
 out as a garden. The Penitentiary contains 1200 sepa- 
 rate cells, lofty and well aired, which are 12 fret long 
 and 6 wide. The corridors, in which the cells are situ- 
 ated, are more than three miles in length. The whole 
 cost was £500,000. 
 
 From the Penitentiary, I proceeded, by way of West- 
 
JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 minster bridge, to Lambeth Palace, for the purpose of 
 delivering the letter kindly furnished me by the Rt. Rev. 
 Bishop Hopkins, to the Archbishop of Canterbury. I 
 found the Archbishop at home, and alone in his study, 
 and had a very agreeable interview with His Grace. 
 He was very plain in his appearance and dress, and in 
 conversation, very free and affable. He seemed gratified 
 with the line from Bishop Hopkins, and to remember 
 with pleasure, his former acquaintance and interviews 
 with him. Lambeth Palace and gardens occupy, I un- 
 derstand, about ten acres, which are surrounded, ex- 
 cepting on a portion of the side next the river, by a 
 massive brick wall, about 15 feet high. There is noth- 
 ing imposing or beautiful in the exterior, but viewed 
 within the yard, some of the buildings make a very fine 
 appearance. The old Chapel here, was erected by 
 Archbishop Boniface, in the 13th century, and is the 
 oldest part of the structure. A new Gothic wing was 
 added, only a few years since, by the late Dr. Howley, 
 and there appears, at the present time, to be a beautiful 
 little Gothic chapel in process of erection. There is said 
 to be here, a large and excellent library, and many fine 
 portraits of Archbishops and others ; but as I spent but 
 little time in looking about, I will attempt no further 
 descriptions. From Lambeth, I returned to my lodg- 
 ings, and rested my weary limbs, by writing to my wife 
 and children, in order that my letter may go out by to- 
 morrow's Mail-Steamer. After finishing my letter, and 
 depositing it in the Post-Office, I called at Mr. Atkin- 
 son's, where I remained and took coffee, and where I 
 met several Americans. The coffee was prepared upon 
 the table, by means of a very ingenious apparatus, heat- 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 89 
 
 ed by a spirit-lamp. Mr. Atkinson's residence, at 37, 
 Gordon Square, I find to be very near my own lodgings, 
 in Euston Place. 
 
 July 12. Saturday. — Have spent most of this day 
 in the Zoological Gardens, and have seen very much 
 more than I can either describe or remember. They 
 are situated in Regent's Park, and were opened to the 
 public in 1828. They occupy some ten or a dozen 
 acres of the north end of the Park, and are very taste- 
 fully laid out ; and the localities, and circumstances, 
 and arrangements, are all peculiarly adapted to the 
 habitat of the various animals. There is a kind of 
 creek for the water-fowls, with its margin lined with 
 bushes, and weeds, and grass. Basins, or ponds of 
 water, for the white bears, the seals, the hippopotamus, 
 the otters, &c, and^paddocks, and kennels, and avia- 
 ries, and apartments, which can be suitably warmed 
 for the various animals of tropical climates. There 
 are, in the whole, no less than sixty-six houses and 
 general divisions, appropriated to the different kinds 
 of animals. 
 
 The individuals, in which I was most interested, 
 w?re the female elephant and calf, the giraffes, and 
 the hippopotamus. What attracted my particular at- 
 tention, in relation to the elephants, was the nursing 
 of the young one. The mammm and teats being 
 situated between the fore legs, the calf would, when 
 it wished to suck, advance along the side of its mother, 
 feeling with its little trunk under her belly, till it found 
 one of the two nipples. Then, keeping the end of 
 the trunk upon the nipple, it advanced its head for- 
 
90 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 ward till it could take the nipple in its mouth. As it 
 proceeded in sucking, it kept the end of its trunk 
 moving about and pressing upon the mamma, pre- 
 cisely as the little infant, while nursing, moves and 
 presses one of its hands on the breast of its mother. 
 The young elephant was about the size of the calf of 
 the cow, when a year old, but I was so stupid that I 
 did not inquire its age. 
 
 There are four of the giraffes. They were, some 
 of them, eating hay, or provender, out of their racks, 
 which were situated about twelve feet from the floor. 
 The head of the largest, when it stood in its upright 
 natural position, I should judge to be sixteen feet 
 above the floor. Their eyes bespoke a mild disposi- 
 tion, like that of the camel and the sheep. 
 
 But, the object of most interest to me, and the one 
 which I found to be the great object of attraction, to 
 a majority of those who visited the Gardens, was the 
 hippopotamus, which is the first animal of the kind 
 ever exhibited alive in England. I found it confined 
 in a yard — perhaps four rods square — with a pond, or 
 basin, of water in the centre, about two rods across, 
 and the inclosure was surrounded by two or three 
 hundred spectators. The hippopotamus was lying on 
 the platform by the side of the pond, with its eyes 
 closed, and apparently asleep. The Nubian keeper 
 soon after roused him from his slumbers, and drove 
 him into the water. He waded as long as he could 
 touch bottom, and then swam lazily across, and crawl- 
 ed partly out on the other side ; but he was driven back 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 91 
 
 again into the water, and, after remaining there some 
 little time, nearly motionless, he was permitted to 
 come out on the side where he went in. In its gen- 
 eral form, it had some resemblance to the hog, but its 
 body is rounder, having the sides less flattened. Its 
 total length, exclusive of the tail, was about seven 
 feet ; the height of the back, which was somewhat 
 arched, three and a half feet ; and the thickness of 
 the body, about two and a half feet — having its ver- 
 tical and lateral diameter nearly equal. The tail was 
 about 1 J foot long, being of a conical form, having its 
 large base attached to the body and tapering nearly to 
 a point. The body was naked, the skin resembling 
 somewhat, in appearance, that of a hog after the bris- 
 tles have been removed, but of a dark, cream brown 
 color. I noticed a few short stiff bristles, upon the 
 lips, and these were all that I could see. Its ears 
 were very small, and its dull, dark eyes, less than the 
 medium size, in proportion to the size of the animal; 
 as was, also, the top and back part of the head ; but 
 there was, in the anterior part of the head, a vast en- 
 largement — a kind of spoon-bill aspect — being broader 
 across near the end of the snout, than the width of 
 the thickest part of the head. The anterior teeth are 
 conical, a little hooking, about the size of a man's 
 finger and nearly as long, and placed so far asunder 
 that the teeth in one jaw interlocked with those in the 
 other. There are no prominent canines, or tusks. 
 The short, thick legs, terminate in around clump foot, 
 with four short thick toes, of nearly equal size. It is 
 
92 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 a young male, not fully grown, but I did not learn its 
 age. 
 
 I find it stated, that there were in the Zoological 
 Gardens, on the first of January, 1850, 1361 living 
 animals, of which 354 were mammals, 853 birds, 
 and 154 reptiles. These gardens belong to the Zoo- 
 logical Society, and are open to the public on every 
 day in the week, except Sunday. Admittance on 
 Monday, §d. ; on other days, Is. 
 
 Within the inclosure of the gardens, is Mr. Gould's 
 collection of humming birds. They consist of sev- 
 eral hundred well-prepared specimens, belonging to 
 about one hundred different species, and for variety, 
 brilliancy, and beauty of colors, scarcely any thing in 
 the world can equal it. They are arranged unpn 
 plants and flowers, some perched and others on the 
 wing, in light, glazed cases, and these are arranged in 
 a neat little building, erected on purpose for their re- 
 ception. 
 
 July 13. Sunday. — Attended Divine service, to- 
 day, at Westminster Abbey, but being misinformed 
 with regard to the time of its commencement, I did 
 not reach the Abbey till it was nearly half over. I 
 found the building crammed full of people, in every 
 part, and although I elbowed my way into their midst, 
 I was not able to reach a position where I could hear, 
 understand ingly, either the service or the sermon. 
 But, I succeeded in getting along so far in the crowd, 
 that I could see the preacher, and see that he officia- 
 ted in the surplice and scarf. Five-sixths of the con- 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 93 
 
 gregation were obliged to stand, during the whole 
 service, for want of seats, and they were so thickly 
 crowded that they filled the whole space entirely, 
 when standing. As already remarked, I was not able 
 to hear enough of the sermon to learn the subject of 
 it, but the performances of the organ and choir could 
 not be concealed, and it is sufficient proof that the music 
 was exquisite, to state, that it produced an effect even 
 upon me, as it reverberated among the clustered col- 
 umns and through the long and lofty Gothic arched 
 aisles. I could, on this occasion, only glance at the 
 numerous tablets, and sculptures, and monuments, in 
 this renowned old edifice, but hope soon to find time 
 to survey them more minutely. Being somewhat 
 fatigued by my walk to the Abbey and back, it being 
 a mile and a half from my lodgings, and it being show- 
 ery in the afternoon, I did not go out, but spent the 
 remainder of the day in my room. 
 
 July 14. Monday. — Spent this day in that place, 
 where parts of all the things in the world are callected 
 together — called the British Museum. But, who is he, 
 who will undertake a description of the British Muse- 
 um ? He must, indeed, be a verdant stripling or an 
 imbecile dote. Why, a full description of this Museum, 
 would form a cyclopedia of science, literature, and an- 
 tiquities, far more complete, than was ever yet publish- 
 ed. Saying nothing of the immense amount of natural 
 productions, only think of 800,000 volumes of printed 
 books, 65,000 volumes of manuscripts, several thousand 
 
 pieces of sculpture, varying in weight from a few 
 9 
 
94 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 ounces to several tons, and consisting of tablets, and 
 s aUies, and sarcophagi, and obelisks, and collossal im- 
 ages, collected into this place, from the rnins of Abys- 
 sinia, and Nubia, and Egypt, and Assyria, and Greece, 
 and Rome, and many of them bearing, in writing or 
 hieroglyhics, important historical records of the remotest 
 periods of antiquity. 
 
 The edifices, which constitute the British Museum, 
 form a quadrangle, built around an open square, 238 
 feet by 317. The quadrangle of buildings measures 
 about 600 feet in front and depth : and the front of the 
 main building, which is towards Great Russell street, 
 is very elegant and imposing. It has a colonade of 44 
 columns, which are of Portland stone, five leet in di- 
 ameter and forty-five feet high. The grand entrance 
 into the main building, is in the centre of this front, 
 which is separated from the street by a spacious yard 
 and a high iron fence. Appended to the two corners, 
 and advancing nearly to the street, are two elegant 
 buildings, for offices and officer's aparments. 
 
 I have spent my time to-day, among the antiquities, 
 both of art and nature, and could do little else, as I 
 passed along from room to room and gallery to gallery, 
 but gaze and wonder. I first passed round among the 
 Roman and Grecian sculptures, among the Elgin and 
 Ninevah marbles, and through the Townley and Egyp- 
 tian saloon, and thence ascended by the stairway to the 
 second floor. I first passed through the Egyptian room 
 above, and the rooms filled with Etruscan vase?, and 
 then spent the remainder of the day amongst the fos- 
 sils and minerals. The fossils interested me more than 
 any other class of objects. These antique medals of a 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 93 
 
 creation. of mammals, anterior to the existing fauna, 
 opened to me a new field of observation, and I spent 
 considerable time in comparing the fossil teeth of the 
 mastodon, the elephant, the megatherium, and many 
 other large and distinct species ; and f found, somewhat 
 to my surprise, that the grinders of the greater part of 
 them were tuberculated on the grinding surface, like 
 those of the mastodon, and not lined and rideed with 
 enamel, as is the case with the elephant. Among the 
 minerals, I noticed many specimens of native gold, 
 from various countries. 
 
 July 15, Tuesday. — Rested much better last night, 
 than I had anticipated, after my hard day's wcrk, yes- 
 terday, and have spent the whole of this day at the 
 Crystal Palace. Went in a little after 10 A. M., and 
 continued there, amidst a moving mass of humanity, 
 almost as varied as the objects of the Exhibition, till 4 
 P. M. The building was densely crowded — so much 
 so that, it was extremely difficult moving from place to 
 place, and I learn, this evening, that the number of vis- 
 itors to the Palace to-day, has exceeded the number on 
 any previous day, since the opening of the Exhibition, 
 being over 71.000. I have confined my attention to- 
 day, to the north gallery, but have hardly glimpsed at 
 one tenth it contains. I found my friend, Shattuck, at 
 his post, beside his rail- way -car wheels, in the American 
 department. At the room of the American agency here, 
 there is a book, in which Americans, who arrive, record 
 their names and residences, &e., and when here, some 
 days ago, I entered my own name, and now find that, 
 more than 200 have entered their names since ; but I do 
 not find any among them, with whom I am acquainted. 
 
96 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 I procured refreshments at the Palace, and sat down 
 several times, to rest me ; but I found myself very much 
 fatigued, when I reached my lodgings. 
 
 July 16. Wednesday. — Thinking it would be most 
 prudent, to be getting off for the United States, as soon 
 as the 1st of August, I started this morning, with my 
 friend, Stevens, for the purpose of making inquiries, at 
 the several Steamer Offices, in regard to my passage, 
 being yet undecided in what way I should return. On 
 the Thames, there are a great many swift little Steam- 
 ers, which are constantly plying between all the impor- 
 tant points along the river, and they are constantly filled 
 with passengers, the fare being only one penny. We 
 proceeded to the nearest landing station, which was at 
 Charing-Cross Iron Bridge; which bridge, by the by, is 
 a very interesting structure. The total weight of the 
 chains, consisting of 2600 links, is 715 tons. It consists 
 of three arches ; the span of the centre one being 676^ ft., 
 and those on each side, 333 feet, each. The height of 
 the road- way in the centre, is 32 feet above high- water 
 mark. Cost £106,000. It was designed for foot passen- 
 gers only, and was opened to the public, May 1, 1845. 
 From the north pier of this bridge, there is a stair- way 
 leading down to the steamboat landing which we found 
 crowded with people, awaiting their turn to get on 
 board, or to make their way off from the boats, two or 
 three of which were hauled up there. After waiting 
 about ten minutes, we got on board, and were soon 
 gliding down the Thames. The tide was out, and all 
 the water of the mighty Thames, was confined to a 
 narrow channel, but little exceeding in width, our own 
 little Winooski. The bed of the river, on each side of 
 
LOND ON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 97 
 
 the channel, appeared like a vast quagmire, in which 
 were lying vessels of various sizes, and in all positions 
 —some standing upright on their keels, some on thei r 
 sides, some on their bows, and some on their sterns. In 
 sailing down the river, when just below Waterloo bridge, 
 we had, from the boat, a very fine view of the Somerset 
 House, which is regarded as one of the finest buildings 
 in London. It is built in the form of a quadrangle, 
 surrounding an open court, being 800 feet in length, 
 and 530 in depth, lying between the river and the 
 Strand. The front next the river is strikingly grand 
 and beautiful. The Royal Society, the Antiquarian 
 Society, the Geological Society, the Astronomical Soci- 
 ety, and the School of Design, have apartments in this 
 building, where they hold their meetings. 
 
 In going from Charing-Cross Bridge, to London 
 Bridge, a distance of about one mile, we passed under 
 three massive bridges, which span the Thames, viz: 
 Waterloo, Black Frairs', and Southwark. The two 
 former are built of stone, and the latter of iron. Water- 
 loo bridge, pronounced by Canova, to be the first struc- 
 ture of the kind in the world, and by M. Dauphin, the 
 celebrated French engineer, to be " a colossal monument, 
 worthy of Sesostris and the Caesars," was opened in 
 June, 1817. It is really a noble structure. The num- 
 ber of persons passing and repassing in the little steam- 
 ers on the Thames, is truly wonderful. At each pier, 
 the boats are arriving and departing as often, on an 
 average, as once every ten minutes, through the day; 
 and they are all the time crowded with passengers, and 
 move from place to place with great celerity. 
 
 From London Bridge, I went to the offices of the sev- 
 
 9* 
 
93 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 eral ocean Steamers, and concluded to take passage 
 home in the Humboldt, which is to leave on the 30th 
 instant. 
 
 I returned on foot, and on my way stopped to take 
 my first look at the interior of St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 When I entered the great body of the Church, I stopped 
 and looked about me with as much astonishment, 
 presume, as President Austin once manifested, when he 
 came in sight of a certain conflagration, which to^k 
 place in the rear of the Vermont University. Our emo- 
 tions must, however, have been quite different, as well 
 as our exclamations. lie held up both of his hands, and 
 rociferated — ■" ridiculous ! ridiculous ! /" — while I was 
 forced to exclaim — "magnificent I magnificent ! /" For 
 magnificence and grandeur, I think St. Paul's exceeds 
 any public edifice I have seen. The building, of which 
 it most reminds me, in its architecture and general form, 
 is the Pantheon, in Paris, where Foucault first demon- 
 strated the earth's rotation, as already mentioned ; but 
 in magnitude, the Pantheon is a mere pigmy, compared 
 with St. Paul's. The general dimensions of St. Paul's 
 Cathedral are, 510 feet in length, 290 in width, and 400 
 til heighth ; and it is a remarkable fact, that this im- 
 mense edifice, second only to St. Peter's in Rome, was 
 begun and completed in the short space of 35 years, by 
 one architect, Sir Christopher Wren, one principal ma- 
 son, Mr. Thomas Strong, and under one Bishop of Lon- 
 don, Dr. Henry Compton, while St. Peter's was 155 
 years in building, under 19 Popes, by 12 successive 
 architects. I spent about an hour in the Cathedral, 
 looking at the monuments erected to the memory of the 
 heroes of England, and in admiring the vastness of the 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 99 
 
 edifice which enshrined them, and then finished my 
 day's work hy walking two miles to my lodgings. 
 
 July 17. Thursday. Spent this day at the Great 
 Exhibition in the Crystal Palace ; but it is of no use to 
 attempt to write down particulars of what I saw. It 
 would be as easy to give a botanical description of the 
 productions of one of our western prairies, from data col- 
 lected during a ride through it on horseback, as it would 
 for an occasional visitor to give an account of the arti- 
 cles in the Exhibition. I may, however, mention one 
 thing which I stopped and gazad at with some little as- 
 tonishment. Upon a massive iron safe, standing in the 
 nave of the building, a little east of the transept, sur- 
 rounded by a strong railing, and underneath a grated 
 coronal dome, through which intrusive hands could not 
 enter, was seen a little obovoid nodule, less in size than 
 half an ordinary apple, and which might easily be mis- 
 taken for a lump of flint glass, carelessly dropped in a 
 glass-house — and this is neither more nor less than the 
 world-famed diamond, "Koh-i-Noor" of Runjeet Singh, 
 valued at £2,000,000 sterling, (nearly $10,000,000 ! ! !) 
 a sum which would build fourteen Crystal Palaces, or, 
 would build a handsome church in every town in New 
 England. 
 
 July IS. Friday. — Spent the forenoon in an excur- 
 sion to the lower part of the city, and at half-past one, 
 P. M., went to the Waterloo Rail-Way station, and took 
 a passage in the cars to Wimbledon Common, for the 
 purpose of delivering letters to Mrs. Maryatt. I found 
 her carriage at the door, and that she was about leaving 
 to fulfil an engagement abroad. She remained to read 
 her letters, and gave me a pressing invitation to remain 
 
100 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 and dine with her. I found her to be an interesting and 
 venerable old lady, of more than 80 years, and yet, 
 apparently quite healthy and active. The village of 
 Wimbledon is neat, but small. It is entered on the 
 south-east side by a gate, and opens to the north-west 
 into a beautiful and extensive common. The delightful 
 residence of Mrs. Maryatt, is situated on the side of the 
 little village, adjacent to the common, and is surrounded 
 by beautiful gardens and groves. I spent about half an 
 hour with Miss Maryatt, after her mother's departure, 
 and returned, by the 4 o'clock train, to London. 
 
 July 19. Saturday. — Rained most of the day — 
 did not go to the Crystal Palace, as I had intended, 
 but spent considerable time in Westminster Abbey. 
 The more I see of this venerable building, the more I 
 admire it. The interior of St. Paul's appears more 
 vast, as does also the interior of Notre Dame, in Paris ; 
 but there is something about the old-clustered col- 
 umns, and the lofty-pointed arches of the Abbey, 
 which produces, in my mind, emotions quite different 
 from either of those. It seems, as it were, the avenue 
 from earth to heaven. 
 
 Most of the time spent to-day, in the Abbey, was 
 devoted to an inspection of the chapels which sur- 
 rounded the choir, and in that magnificent addition to 
 the Abbey, known as Henry VII. Chapel. This last 
 chapel is a place of exceeding great interest, not only 
 on account of its architectural structure and orna- 
 ments, but of the trophies and monuments it contains. 
 It is entered from the Abbey by a flight of several 
 steps. It is 115 feet long, 80 wide, and the top of its 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 101 
 
 turrets 102 feet high. Westminster Abbey, exclusive 
 of Henry VII Chapel, is, in length, 416 feet ; width 
 at the transept, 203 feet; height of the west towers, 
 225 feet. 
 
 July 20. Sunday. — Had calculated to attend the 
 services in St. Paul's Cathedral to-day, but the morn- 
 ing being showery, and St. Paul's more than two 
 miles from my lodgings, I concluded to attend the 
 parish church on the east side of Euston Square, call- 
 ed St. Pancreas' Church. This is a large and elegant 
 church, built of brick, and faced with Portland stone. 
 It is modelled in imitation of the Athenian temple of 
 Erectheus. Its length is 117 feet, width 60, and the 
 height of its steeple 168 feet. It has galleries on 
 three sides, supported by columns, copied -from the 
 Elgin marbles. The church has a commanding ap- 
 pearance, with a beautiful portico, and is very neat 
 and elegant within, I found the church well filled, 
 by a respectable looking and very attentive audience. 
 The service was read by a young clergyman ; at the 
 close of which, he published the bans of marriage 
 between about one hundred couple. Before he got 
 through his formidable list, I began to think that some 
 Millerite had been laboring successfully in the parish, 
 or that some new comet was approaching, which, it 
 was expected, would burn up the world. 
 
 The sermon was preached by the rector of the 
 church, the Rev. Thomas Dale, and he delivered a most 
 excellent discourse, and did it too in a very impres- 
 sive manner. I attended the afternoon services in the 
 
102 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARl3> 
 
 Same church, and the same persons officiated as in the 
 forenoon. Mr. D.'s text, in the forenoon, was founded 
 on a portion of the third chapter of the 1st Epistle 
 to the Corinthians, from the 11th to the 15th verses ; 
 and in the afternoon, upon the last clause of the 47th 
 verse of the 2d chapter of the Acts ; and, according 
 to my views, he gave two well-written, sound and 
 scriptural discourses, in which it was shown that 
 Christ was the only foundation — that on this founda- 
 tion the true church of God was built, and that the 
 Church of England was undoubtedly a part of the 
 true church of God. If such sermons were generally 
 preached in the pulpits of the establishment, and the 
 clergymen illustrated their discourses by consistent 
 examples, they would need, I think, to have little 
 fear of Romanism on the one hand, or dissent on the 
 other. Ecclesiastical Titles Bills might safely be dis- 
 pensed with. I passed the evening at Mr. Atkinson's, 
 where I met several Americans. 
 
 July 21. Monday. — Have had a very hard day's 
 work, but, withal, a very interesting one. Went first 
 to Temple Bar, thence to Temple Church, thence to 
 the Mint, and thence to the famous Tower of Lon- 
 don, where I spent the greater part of the day. Tem- 
 ple Bar is the only boundary, now remaining visible, 
 of the old city of London. It is an arched gateway, 
 crossing Fleet street, and formerly separated London 
 from Westminster. Temple Gardens, Temple Church, 
 and many things about this location of the Knights 
 Templars, are very interesting, particularly the church, 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 103 
 
 near which are buried the mortal remains of Oliver 
 Goldsmith, while his monument, with Dr. Johnson's 
 inscription, is in Poet's Corner, Westminster Abbey. 
 
 The Tower, which engaged my chief attention, is, 
 in every respect, an interesting and wonderful place. 
 Its exterior consists of a strong wall, provided with 
 angular bastions, and surrounded by a broad ditch. 
 The interior consists of a parade ground and numer- 
 ous buildings, of which that ca'Ied the White Tower 
 is the most conspicuous. All parts are freely accessi- 
 ble to the public, excepting the Armory and the Jewel 
 House. For admission to each of these, a fee of 6d. 
 is required ; and, for that, the visitor has the benefit 
 of a guide, who names and explains the several ob- 
 jects, in passing along. The first long hall of the 
 Armory, is filled with figures of ancient lungs and 
 knigh{s, and noblemen, on horseback, clad, in many 
 cases, in the identical armor which the persons wore, 
 while living. In this and the various other depart- 
 ments, are preserved the warlike implements, of of- 
 fence and defence, of English history. Here is pre- 
 served the axe, with which state criminals were be- 
 headed ; and I was shown the block, said to be the 
 identical one, on which the head of Anne Boleyn was 
 chopped off. I parsed through the room in which Sir 
 Walter Raleigh was incarcerated for twelve years, and 
 went into the damp, windowless cell, which was his 
 sleeping room. 
 
 In the Jewel House, which is situated to the north- 
 eastward of the Armory, is a room called the Rega- 
 
104 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 lia, in which are deposited the crown jewels, from 
 the reign of Henry IV. They consist of fonts, tank- 
 ards, goblets, &c. of pure gold, crowns of the English 
 sovereigns, and a great variety of precious things. 
 Among the crowns, is that worn by the present Queen, 
 Victoria, valued at one million sterling. The whole 
 collection is valued at several millions ; and while look- 
 ing at it, I could not avoid thinking how much more 
 good might be effected by those millions, if expended 
 in relieving the sufferings and elevating the character 
 of the lower classes of the community, instead of stand- 
 ing here to be gazed at. Imitations, in wood, with the 
 exterior well gilded, would answer the same purpose 
 here, if the deception were not detected ; and there 
 would be little chance for detection, by visitors, since 
 they are not permitted to come within eight feet of the 
 articles. The simple interest of the estimated value of 
 the regalia, would amount to nearly a million of dollars 
 annually, and would furnish the liberal salary of £200 
 sterling per annum to one thousand Christian mission- 
 aries. It looks, to me, rather anti-utilitarian to lock up 
 so much wealth for mere ostentation. 
 
 July 22. Tuesday. — Having obtained my ticket yes- 
 terday, entitling me to a seat in the Peace Congress, as 
 delegate from Vermont, I proceeded, this morning, to 
 Exeter Hall, the place of meeting, where I arrived 
 about half-past 10. I found a large number of dele- 
 gates and spectators already assembled ; and at 11, the 
 time of organizing the meeting, the immense hall ap- 
 peared to be entirely filled. The congress was called 
 to order by Mr. Richards, one of the secretaries, and 
 Sir David Brewster was elected president ; who, on ta- 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 105 
 
 king the chair, delivered a very beautifully written and 
 appropriate inaugural address. 
 
 Mr. Richards having read the names of the foreign 
 delegates in attendance, remarked that he would not take 
 up the time of the Congress in reading over the names 
 of the British delegates, since they amounted to more 
 than a thousand. The resolutions to be brought before 
 the Congress, were prepared by the standing committee, 
 and published in a programme of the proceedings ; but 
 before their discussion was entered upon, a short time 
 was devoted to silent prayer, for the Divine blessing 
 upon their labors. 
 
 Two resolutions were very amply discussed during 
 this day's session: the first in relation to the influence 
 of the pulpit, the school and the press, in the diffusion 
 of peace principles; and the second, upon the settle- 
 ment of national disputes, by arbitration. The first res- 
 olution was introduced by the Rev. J. A. James, and 
 supported by a very able speech. He was followed by 
 the Rev. Mr. Brock, Rev. Dr. Aspinall, Rev. A. Coc- 
 querel, Jr., Prof. Saler, a Spaniard, and M. J. Delbruck, 
 Editor of a Journal of Education, in Paris. The second 
 resolution was introduced and ably supported by M. 
 Visschers, of Brussels. He was followed by the Rev. 
 Dr. Beck with, Secretary of the American Peace Society, 
 and the Rev. J. Burnet. Mr. Beckwith's speech was 
 highly creditable to himself, and to the friends of Peace 
 in America. Mr. Burnet's was filled with humor, and 
 well calculated to secure the interest of the audience to 
 the close of the five hours sitting. He told them, among 
 other things that, if war was wisdom, there must be, in 
 
 that hall, an immense gathering of fools : that the peace 
 10 ' r 
 
106 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 of the world was not to be kept by their Wellingtons, 
 but by their Brewsters. These resolutions were sup- 
 ported by a considerable display of oratory, and were 
 adopted unanimously. 
 
 July 23. Wednesday. — Have spent all this day in 
 attendance upon the Peace Congress. The weather has 
 been dark and foggy, with some rain ; but notwith- 
 standing this, Exeter Hall has been filled all day, to its 
 utmost capacity. The air has been hot and oppressive ; 
 but the patient and quiet endurance of the audience, for 
 five loflg hours, has showed clearly that the war spirit 
 was not rampant there, but that, on the contrary, the 
 advocates of peace could illustrate their principles by 
 their examples. 
 
 Three resolutions have been discussed to-dsiy. The 
 first in relation to a mutual and general reduction of 
 national armaments ; second, thv* non -interference of one 
 nation in the internal affairs of another : and third, the 
 wrongs perpetrated by civilized nations upon uncivilized 
 tribes. The first of these resolutions was supported by 
 Mr. Cobden, Member of Parliament, in one of the ablest 
 speeches I have yet heard. lie was followed by M. ce 
 Pompery, of Paris, and by Mr. Ewart and Mr. Macgregor, 
 two other Members of Parliament. The second resolu- 
 tion was supported by Mr. Vincent. Dr. Beaumont, and 
 M. Gamier, the French Secretary. The third resolu- 
 tion was moved by Mr. Burnet, and was supported by 
 him, and by Rev. F. Crowe, of Guatemala, the Rev. II. 
 Garnett, and Mr. Girardin, of La Prcsse. M. Girardin 
 said he was not a soldier, but a deserter, having deserted 
 from the National Assembly of France, that he might be 
 present in this Congress, where he was delighted to find 
 himself. 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. Mti 
 
 July 24. 1 'hursday.— Having learned that Dr. John 
 C. Warren, of Boston, had arrived in London, and was 
 stopping at the Brunswick Hotel, on Hanover Square. 
 I called on him for a few moments, and also upon my 
 friend, Mr. Yarrell, on my way to Exeter Hall. Mr. 
 Yarreil was so kind as to present me a copy of his 
 beautifully illustrated work, on British Fishes, in two 
 octavo volumes. 
 
 When I reached Exeter Hall, the business of the 
 Congress had already commenced. Fifteen working- 
 m-.i, from Paris, had been introduced, and addresses 
 were mads by C. Hindley, M. P., by Pierre Ymsard, one 
 of the working-men, and Dr. Kreutznach, of Frankfort- 
 on-the-Maine, The first resolution of the day, which 
 related to the immorality, and other evils of loans for 
 warlike purposes, was introduced and well supported by 
 Mr. Charles Gilpin, of London, and was further discussed 
 by Mr. Miall, Editor of the Nonconformist, Mr. S. Gur- 
 ney, Mr. Cobden, Mr. Buckingham and M. Avigdon, 
 banker of Nice. The proceeding resolution being car- 
 ried, M. de Cormenin, of Paris, moved the next resolu- 
 tion, which recommended that, the friends of Peace 
 should support, by their votes, in all Constitutional 
 Countries, measures for the diminution of the number of 
 man employed in, and the amount of money expended 
 for, war purposes. He supported the resolution, in a 
 speech of considerable length; but as he spoke in the 
 French language, I was unable to judge of its merits. 
 T.13 speech of M. de Cormenin was followed by some 
 pertinent remarks by the Rev. Dr. Massie, after which 
 the resolution was unanimously adopted. Mr. Elihu 
 Burritt then arose, and proposed a resolution, in rela- 
 
108 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 tion to the formation of an authorative code of interna- 
 tional law. This resolution he supported, in a long and 
 able speech, which was highly applauded. He was 
 followed by M. Coignet, of Lyons, M. Peuh, M. Bouvet, 
 of the French National Assembly, and Dr. Seherzer, of 
 Vienna. The next resolution, relating to the effect of 
 the Great Industrial Exhibition of all nations, in promo- 
 ting peace principles, was then read, and, without dis- 
 cussion, was passed by acclamation. 
 
 Then, after the transaction of a little business, the 
 President of the Congress arose, and delivered a short, 
 but very impressive farewell address. Votes of thanks 
 to the several officers of the Congress, having been 
 unanimously passed, a final adjournment took place at 
 half past 4, P.M. 
 
 During the progress of the meeting of the Congress, 
 letters of adhesion to the Peace Cause, were read, from 
 a large number of distinguished individuals, who were 
 unable to attend. Among these may be mentioned the 
 names of the Archbishop of Dublin, Thomas Carlyle, 
 Baron Humboldt, Liebeg the Chemist, and Victor Hugo. 
 
 At the adjournment of the Congress, it was announced 
 that the British delegates would give a soiree on the 
 evening of the next day, Friday, at Willis' Rooms, for 
 the special reception of the foreign delegates, and tickets 
 were furnished accordingly. 
 
 On every account, I must say that, I look upon the 
 present meeting of the World's Peace Congress, as a 
 great and interesting affair ; and when I look upon it 
 in connection with the Great Industrial Exhibition, 
 where there is not only a commingling, in the Crystal 
 Palace, of the choicest productions of all countries, but, 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 109 
 
 at tha same time, a friendly commingling and a peaceful 
 and noble rivalry of the people of the different nations, 
 I can regard them in no other light, than that of har- 
 bing3rs and hasteners of the time predicted, when u the 
 wolf shall lie down with the lamb" — when " the nations 
 shall learn war no more," — and when all the families 
 and kindred of the whole earth, shall be gathered into 
 one fold, wider one shepherd — and he u The Prince of 
 Peace." * 
 
 July 25. Friday. — Got off pretty early, this morn- 
 ing, on an excursion to the lower part of the city. I at 
 first spent some time in wandering about the St. Kathe- 
 rine's and London Docks. These are situated on the 
 north side of the river, a little below the Tower. Their 
 great extent, the vast amount of shipping, and the im- 
 mense number and magnitude of the store-houses, ar.e 
 calculated to overwhelm and bewilder a stranger in a 
 hasty survey. These docks occupy 39 acres, and cost 
 more than £6,000,000 sterling; but they are of much 
 less extent than the East and West India Docks, lying 
 further down the river. The West India Docks, includ- 
 ing the canal leading into them, occupy 295 acres, but 
 I found no time to visit them. 
 
 From the London Docks I proceeded to the Thames 
 Tunnel. This tunnel passes under the bed of the river, 
 in the eastern part of the metropolis, and nearly two miles 
 below London Bridge. It was originally projected and 
 finally constructed by the energy and skill of Sir I. K. 
 Brunei. It was begun in 1S25, and opened to the pub- 
 
 * A brief report of the doings of the Peace Congress, was made by the 
 the author to the Chairman of the Vermont Peace Committee, and pub- 
 lished in the Vermont Chronicle. 
 
 10* 
 
110 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 lie in 1843. It consists of a square mass of brick- work, 
 37 feet wide and 22 feet high, containing in it two 
 arched passages, each I63 feet wide, and \b\ feet high. 
 Each passage has a carriage road 13^ feet wide, and a 
 side- walk 3 feet wide. The two passages are separated 
 by open arches, and the whole interior is well lighted 
 with gas, having a burner in each arch. The whole 
 length of the tunnel is 1300 feet, and the thickness, be- 
 tween the tops of the arches and the bottom of the river 
 over them, is 15 feet. The cost of the Tunnel was 
 £614,000. Though carriage roads are constructed in 
 the Tunnel, there is no way provided for carriages to 
 enter it at either end. Foot passengers gain admission 
 by descending a circular shaft, some 40 feet wide, and 
 60 feet deep, by circular stairs, and emerge on the other 
 side of the river by a similar shaft, after passing through 
 the tunnel. The toll is one penny. It is not found to 
 be so much used as a business thoroughfare as was ex- 
 pected, but large numbers pass through to admire it as 
 a curiosity ; and yet the revenue from it affords no ad- 
 equate return for the outlay in its construction. I entered 
 the tunnel on the north side of the river, and emerged 
 from it on the south side. I found nearly all parts of it 
 thronged with people moving in different directions, and 
 in almost all the arches, near the lights, were stands for 
 the sale of refreshments, toys, and a great variety of 
 useful and fancy articles. As I walked deliberately 
 along, admiring the beauty of the arches and the vast- 
 ness of the work, I could not help thinking, what a 
 scampering, and scrambling and screaming would take 
 place among the inmates of the tunnel, in case the 
 mighty Thames, which was rolling over our heads, 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. Ill 
 
 should burst through the brick arch, which protected us, 
 and pour in upon us a deluge of water. 
 
 I returned to the north side of the river by way of 
 London Bridge, and in the evening, availing myself of 
 the ticket furnished me for the soiree, I proceeded to 
 Willis' Rooms, where I found myself in a party con- 
 sisting of more than a thousand persons, about one 
 third of whom were ladies. These rooms are very large 
 and airy, beautifully finished and richly furnished, with 
 sofas and mirrors and pictures, and are regarded as one 
 of the most fashionable and honorable places of enter- 
 tainment in London. I found in the vast crowd, but 
 few to whom I had been previously introduced. Mr. 
 Beckwith and Mr. Burritt, were the only Americans 
 present, with whom I was acquainted. The evening 
 was mostly spent in conversation in little clusters ; but 
 a short time before I left, several gentlemen entertained 
 the company by short speeches. The refreshments were 
 quite simple. They consisted of several kinds of cake, 
 strawberries and ice-creams ; with lemonade, tea and 
 coffee for drinks. I left the company a little after 11. 
 
 July 26. Saturday. — Day stormy — spent a large 
 part of it in Westminster Abbey. There are three 
 principal entrances to the Abbey — from the west, un- 
 der the great towers, into the nave — from the church- 
 yard, on the north, into the north transept — and from 
 the east, between the Chapter House and the main 
 body of the Abbey, into the south transept. This 
 last entrance is directly opposite to the entrance to the 
 House of Lords, in the new Houses of Parliament. 
 
 The south transept is best known by the name of 
 Poet's Corner ; and it derives its name from the cir- 
 
112 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 cumstance, that it contains monuments erected to the 
 memory of nearly all the distinguished English poets. 
 The number of inscriptions in Poet's Corner exceeds 
 fifty. Among these, I noticed the names of Geoffrey 
 Chaucer, William Shakspeare, Ben Johnson, Edmund 
 Spenser, Samuel Butler, John Milton, Thomas Gray, 
 Matthew Prior, John Dryden, Abraham Cowley, James 
 Thomson, Oliver Goldsmith, and so on. The monu- 
 ments to distinguished civilians, jurists, and men of 
 science, are mostly in the nave and north transept. 
 The dignitaries in church and state, embracing bish- 
 ops, saints, nobility, and royalty, have their monu- 
 ments and inscriptions mostly in the choir and the 
 numerous chapels. I learn, from a published list, 
 that the whole number is three hundred and fifty. 
 
 Coleridge once said — " On entering a Cathedral, I 
 am filled with devotion and awe ; I am lost to the 
 actualities that surround me, and my whole being is 
 merged into the infinite— earth and air, nature and 
 art, all swell up into eternity, and the only sensible 
 impression left is, that I am nothing ; /,; and it seems 
 to me as if it were hardly possible for any one to en- 
 ter Westminster Abbey without experiencing some- 
 what of this sentiment. While looking around upon 
 the dingy monuments of knights and princes, and 
 endeavoring to decipher their half-obliterated inscrip- 
 tions, the truth of the well-known lines — 
 
 " A heap of dust alone remains of thee, 
 'Tis all thou art " 
 
 was continually forcing itself upon my thoughts, not- 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 113 
 
 withstanding all these costly efforts to immortalize 
 their chivalry. 
 
 July 27. Sunday. — Attended morning service at 
 St. Paul's Cathedral, but being mistaken half an hour 
 in the time of its commencing, I found the choir, in 
 which it was performed, filled when I arrived, in con- 
 sequence of which I failed in hearing much of the 
 service. The choir, in which the public religious 
 services were performed, is separated from the nave 
 of the church by a bronze grating, nearly over which 
 stands the great organ. The gateways through this 
 grating are closed, when the service commences, which 
 prevents any from going in, or coming out, during the 
 service, so that a person arriving too late is able to 
 hear very little, excepting the voice of the immense 
 organ. Excepting a few who listened on the outside 
 of the grate, the multitude, which could not gain 
 access to the choir, spent the time of service in the 
 body of the church, looking at the monuments and 
 inscriptions. 
 
 The monuments here are few in number, and 
 mostly of modern date. Among these, are monu- 
 ments of Nelson, Collingwood, Cornwallis, Abercrom- 
 bie, Sir William Jones, Bishop Heber, Dr. Johnson, 
 and Howard, the philanthropist. Nelson's tomb is in 
 the vault below. 
 
 Over the entrance into the choir, is a modest in- 
 scription to the memory of the builder of the cathe- 
 dral, in Latin, of which the following is a translation : 
 " Beneath lies Christopher Wren, the architect of this 
 
114 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 church, and city, who lived more than 90 years, not for 
 himself alone, but the public. Reader, do you ask his 
 monument ? Look around ! " 
 
 July 2S. Monday. — Spent the greater part of this 
 day in the British Museum. Noticing that most, of 
 the fresh water species of molluscs of Lake Cham- 
 1 plain were wanting in their collection of shells, I 
 gave them several specimens of our Limnaa incga- 
 s'oma ; also some geological specimens from Vermont. 
 
 July 29. Tuesday. — When I called upon Mr. 
 Lawrence, the American Minister, soon after my arri- 
 val in London, he very kindly offered to give me 
 tickets to several places which I thought I might like 
 to visit. But, finding that the time of my departure 
 was so near that I should not be able to avail myself 
 of them, I called upon him this morning to thank 
 him for his proffered favors. His residence is near 
 the west end of Piccadilly Street, not far from the 
 corner of Hydepark, and having Green Park on the 
 south. I was received very politely, and he appeared 
 to treat the Americans generally, who called upon 
 him, with much attention. 
 
 From the residence of the American Minister I 
 went to the Crystal Palace, where I spent the remain- 
 der of the day. I have now probably made my last 
 visit to the Crystal Palace ; but I have no time, this 
 evening, to record, in my journal, as I would like to 
 do, some general remarks respecting this wonderful 
 building and what it contains. That must be defer- 
 red to a more convenient period. 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 115 
 
 July 30. Wednesday. — -Spent the forenoon in at- 
 tending to sundry little matters preparatory to my de- 
 parture from London, and at 2 P. M. proceeded in a 
 cab to the Waterloo Railway station. At 3, precisely, 
 I left London in the express train for Southampton, 
 where I arrived at 5, making the passage of eighty 
 miles in just two hours, including two stoppings, 
 amounting to about five minutes. The fare from 
 London to Southampton is $3. 
 
 After the usual ceremony and bustle, and paying 
 the several fees of porterage, dockage, &c, I found 
 myself at 5J P. M. on board the steamer, Queen, 
 where I met with a Mr. Jackson and wife, who were 
 passengers out with me in the Franklin, and were 
 now on their return. We left Southampton a little 
 before 6 P. M. and arrived at Cowes at 7, where we 
 lay till nearly 9, awaiting the arrival of the Humboldt 
 from Havre. At 10, we were all safely on board the 
 Humboldt, and ready to take our departure for Ameri- 
 ca. I had been but a fe-.v minutes en board be- 
 fore a gentleman came up to me and called me by 
 name : and I was no less delighted than surprised to 
 learn, that he was a Vermouter and a near neighbor 
 to me when at home — O. F. Holabird, Esq., of Shel- 
 burne. He informs me that he is concerned with S. 
 W. Jewett, Esq., of Weybridge, in getting out to the 
 United States a choice variety of sheep, and that he 
 had been to France on that business. We neither of 
 us knew that the other was in Europe, and the 
 thought that I am to have his company across the 
 wide ocean, is to me the source of much gratification. 
 
116 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 July 31. Thursday. — I retired to my state-room 
 last night at about 11 J, and slept very well till 5 this 
 morning. I find my state-room nearer mid -ship and 
 more pleasantly situated than the one I occupied on 
 board the Franklin, and that my chum is a youngster 
 by the name of McKenzie. When I arose this morn- 
 ing, I found the heavens overcast with clouds, and 
 it has continued cloudy all day, with fog, slight 
 sprinkles of rain, and a strong breeze directly ahead. 
 Have had fine views of the coast of England, as we 
 passed along, and of the Edystone and several other 
 light-houses. Saw land for the last time a little after 
 noon. The sea has been somewhat rough during the 
 day, and the effect of the pitching and tossing of the 
 ship, I see, is quite plainly depicted in the counte- 
 nances of the passengers. The sun not having been 
 visible to-day, no observations could be made for time 
 or latitude. In going into the dock at Havre, the 
 frame work of the Humboldt's engine was badly 
 cracked, and this afternoon it was found that so much 
 friction was produced, in consequence, that parts of 
 the machinery had become heated almost to a red 
 heat. They were, therefore, obliged to stop the en- 
 gine for more than half an hour for the purpose of 
 cooling it, and strengthening the frame work, by 
 means of wedges. The injury is greater than was 
 supposed, when the ship left Havre, and fears are had 
 that it may entirely fail before we get across the At- 
 lantic. 
 
 August 1. Friday. — Another cloudy day, with a 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 117 
 
 strong head wind. Nearly all on board are suffering 
 seriously by sea-sickness, and some are very sick. 
 Have felt some nausea and loss of appetite, but suffer 
 very little compared with most others. Have passed 
 in sight of two or three sail, but nothing has occur- 
 red of much interest. It may be set down as a dull, 
 gloomy day, characterized only by sea-sickness and 
 the monotony of the ocean. 
 
 August 2. Saturday. — In most respects, this day 
 may be set down as ditto to yesterday. The wind 
 was strong ahead all night, and has continued so 
 through the day, and the ship has tossed and pitched 
 very badly — a state of things not well calculated for 
 the speedy removal of sea-sickness. The condition 
 of the sufferers does not appear much improved. And 
 while the situation of those on board has been made 
 very disagreeable by unfavorable wind and weather, 
 it has been made doubly irksome, by repeatedly stop- 
 ping the engine to cool and wedge up the machinery. 
 Saw the sun a few moments to-day, but think Capt. 
 Lines was not able to get a good observation for time 
 and latitude. Saw a large school of porpoises gam- 
 boling and leaping out of the water in their usual 
 way. The day is closing as it began, with the wind 
 and sea high, and the weather foggy, chilly and gloo- 
 my. 
 
 August 3, Sunday. — The wind continued high 
 and ahead during the night, but abated in the morn- 
 ing, and before noon came round and blew lightly from 
 
 the north, the sea at the same time becoming less agi- 
 11 
 
118 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 tated ; but our broken engine gave us much anxiety, 
 and the ship was frequently stopped for the purpose 
 of strengthening it by wedging and bracing. If our 
 engines should finally fail us, it must take us a very 
 long time to reach land in any direction, as we are 
 now about one-third of the distance across the ocean, 
 and our means of sailing very feeble. The wind, 
 which had been light during the forenoon, began to 
 increase about 1 P. M., and is now (9 P. M.) blowing 
 quite a gale from the north, accompanied by rain and 
 mist. Our sails are all spread, and we are making 
 better progress than heretofore, but the ship pitches 
 and rolls considerably. 
 
 AuGrsT 4. Monday. — Retired last night about 10, 
 and slept very soundly till 4, when I awoke almost 
 suffocated, on account of the closeness of the win- 
 dows, doors and hatches, they all having been shut 
 during the night to keep out the water and spray 
 which was dashing over the ship. The wind had 
 much abated, and the weather was fair, with the ther- 
 mometer at 58° in the shade. A little before 9 A. M., 
 passed and spoke the Norwegian barque Ottillia, bound 
 to Quebsc. At 10, passed a sail on our starboard, 
 bound eastward ; and about noon, saw four small 
 whales, swimming nearly abreast and very near to- 
 gether. Their heads and backs were at the surface 
 of the water, and the spray, which they blew up in 
 breathing., appeared to rise only a few feet. Before 
 night it became more cloudy, and the wind changed 
 to the south-west, and is now blowing quite hard. 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 119 
 
 August 5. Tuesday. — I was awakened this morn- 
 ing, between 1 and 2 o'clock, by the whistling of the 
 wind among the shrouds and the motion of the ship, 
 and after lying awake till half-past 2, arose and went 
 on deck. The wind was blowing a brisk gale from 
 S. \V. by S., the sails were partly up, and we were 
 plunging through the waves and foam in a magnifi- 
 cent manner. The broken surface of the sea, as it 
 lashed the sides of the ship, afforded me a fine oppor- 
 tunity to observe the sparkling and phosphorescence 
 of the ocean, which I continued to do for half an 
 hour. The appearance was quite unlike that observ- 
 ed on the morning of the 5th day of my passage out. 
 The light, in that case, seemed to be a uniform glow 
 from the whole surface of the wave ; but in the pres- 
 ent case, it consists principally of sparks, like those 
 emitted by millions of fire-flies. The spark, or flash, 
 appeared on the surface of the water ; and from it a 
 luminous point seemed to sink down into the water, 
 illuminating it to some distance around, as it descend- 
 ed.* About 3, I retired to the cabin, where I lounged 
 till daylight. While the waves were running very 
 
 *The phosphorescence and sparkling of the ocean, are now believed 
 to result from two general causes — one, the emission of light by very 
 minute animals — and the other, from the decomposition of particles of 
 organic matter. Both these causes abound most in the tropical seas, 
 and hence these luminous appearances are far more frequent there thaa 
 iu higher and colder latitudes. Mr. Darwin, who devoted much atten- 
 tion to this subject, during his voyage in the Beagle around the world, 
 thinks that the phosphorescence of the ocean has a very intimate rela- 
 tion to the electrical state of the atmosphere. See his Voyage of a 
 A'aturalut, vol. 1, p. 20?. 
 
120 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 high, this morning, their real height became a subject 
 of some discussion. At first, there appeared much 
 diversity of opinion ; but after watching them for 
 some time, and making the best estimates we could 
 from occular data, the general conclusion arrived at 
 was, that the perpendicular height, of a straight line 
 drawn from crest to crest, of two of the highest waves, 
 would be about 16 feet above the bottom of the de- 
 pression between them, or only 8 feet above the mean 
 level of the sea. It may seem surprising that I should 
 speak of the eea running high, when the waves are 
 raised only 8 feet above the mean level of the ocean, 
 especially as we are accustomed to read in narratives 
 of voyages, of waves running as high as the top of 
 the ship's mast — of swells mountain high, &c. But 
 such statements, though erroneous, may be honestly 
 founded on appearances. When the sea is running 
 very high, the ship may frequently be in a position in 
 which, to a person on board, an approaching wave may 
 actually appear to be higher than the ship's mast, and 
 a distant swell may have no slight resemblance to a 
 mountain. But they are so only in appearance, and 
 the appearance is occasioned, principally, by the incli- 
 nation of the plane of the ship's deck to the plane of 
 the horizon, or general sea-level. 
 
 The sun has been visible some small part ©f the 
 day, and sufficiently so at noon to enable the captain to 
 get an observation. Our longitude, at that time, was 
 about 31°. Passed one sail to-day, some distance to 
 the north of us, bound eastward. 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 121 
 
 Aucust 6. Wednesday. — Went on deck at half- 
 past 2, in the morning, and spent some time in watch- 
 ing the scintilations of the agitated waters. Appear- 
 ances very similar to those noticed yesterday morning. 
 It was cloudy, with some rain, the wind strong from 
 S. S. E., the sea running high, and the ship pitching 
 and tumbling badly. I retired again to my berth, and 
 slept till 5, when I found that the wind had somewhat 
 abated, and that the sea was more calm. At 7 J A. M. , 
 a small portion of a rainbow was seen in the west. At 
 this time, the barometer was the lowest that it has 
 been at any time since we left Cowes, being 29.40 in. 
 Daring the forenoon, we had frequent rain-squalls from 
 the N. E. About noon, the wind came round to N. 
 by W. and increased in violence till nearly night, lash- 
 ing the sea into a violent ferment and dashing the 
 spray over the upper deck to such a degree that no 
 one could comfortably remain there. We have j)ass- 
 ed two sails to-day, one to the north of us and the 
 other to the southward; and I was told that several 
 black fishes showed themselves about noon, but I did 
 not happen to be on deck to see them. My friend 
 Holabird informs me that large numbers of them were 
 seen, during their passage out in the Humboldt. 
 
 We have had a rainbow in the morning, two days 
 in succession, and the squally weather, yesterday and 
 to-day, has been such as to verify the old proverb — 
 
 " A rainbow in the morning, 
 Is the sailor's warning." 
 
 I can hardly recollect a case, in which a rainbow in 
 
 11* 
 
122 JOURNAL OP A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 the morning, cither on sea or land, was not followed 
 by a squally day. 
 
 In the early part of the day, a small whirlwind, or 
 water spout, passed by near the ship, whirling the 
 spray upwards towards the clouds, but it was not felt 
 on board the ship. 1 am told that these whirlwinds 
 will sometimes cross a ship, with their force concen- 
 trated within so narrow limits, as to lift a mast, with 
 its sails, out of its place, without disturbing any thing 
 else. Such statements, if true, must constitute strong 
 props of Mr. Espy's vortex theory of storms. The 
 wind is somewhat abated this morning, but the sea 
 continues greatly agitated. 
 
 August 7. Thursday. — The weather, this morning, 
 was still bwery and disagreeable, but the force of the 
 wind and the turbulence of the sea, were very much 
 abated. The thermometer, at sunrise, in the shade, stood 
 at 5S^. Yesterday morning, it was at 60 Q . During 
 most of the day, the horizon has been clear and well 
 defined, and the sea tolerably calm. But just before 
 night, a low bank of dense fog was seen extending for 
 a great distance along the horizon in the south-west, 
 strongly resembling distant land ; but instead of being 
 land, 1 learn that it is only an indication that we are 
 about entering upon the cold and dreary banks of New- 
 foundland. We have had, to-nigh f, another most 
 splendid sunset ; I am not sure that I ever saw a more 
 beautiful one, even at Burlington, so renowned for its 
 beautiful sunsets. It seemed as though it were hardly 
 possible to have a more perfect display of bright and 
 varied colors, lovely tints and delicate shades, than was 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 123 
 
 exhibited in the '.vest at the moment the sun was dis- 
 appearing below the surface of the ocean. The effect 
 of refraction in shortening the sun's vertical diameter, 
 was very perceptible, as was also the difference of cur- 
 viture in the arcs bounding the upper and lower mar- 
 gins of the sun ; but the distortion of the sun's disc 
 was trifling, compared with that I witnessed on the 
 Grand Bank, in my passage out. The weather is now 
 favorable, and our progress good. 
 
 August 8- Friday. — It was 5 o'clock when I went 
 on deck, this morning. Found the weather foggy and 
 chilly, the thermometer standing, in the shade, at 48 Q . 
 Before noon, the fog had mostly disappeared, and the 
 sea had become more calm and smooth than I had be- 
 fore seen it at any time during my passage out and so 
 far back. At noon, we were on the Grand Banks, be- 
 ing in lat. 47^, and long. 49 Q , 4 degress further north 
 than we crossed the Banks in our passage out. Passed 
 one sail to the south of us, headed east, the only one 
 seen in two days. Sun-fishes, or jelly-fishes, are seen 
 in considerable numbers since we came upon the Banks, 
 and floating branches of sea-weed are frequently seen. 
 Passed, also, this afternoon, a large school of porpoises. 
 The air has been uncomfortably cool on deck during 
 the day, but otherwise the weather has been remarka- 
 bly calm and pleasant. The temperature, to-night, 
 both of the water and the air, is about 56°. The wind 
 seems to be rising, this evening, and appearances indi- 
 cate an approaching storm. We are now nine days 
 out from Cowes, and are in about the same longitude 
 as when four days out from New York, but are in lati- 
 tude about 4° further north. 
 
124 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 AVhen the weather is favorable, the passengers usu- 
 ally amuse themselves on deck, during the day. and 
 pass the evening in the great dining-saloon, either read- 
 ing or playing whist. While I am now writing, alone 
 in my state-room, a large part of the passengers are in 
 the saloon, over my head, around the card-tables ; and 
 by their boisterous mirth, one might conjecture that 
 they were endeavoring to drown their cares in Cham- 
 pagne. I now occupy a single state-room alone, one 
 having been vacated by its occupant having taken a 
 berth on deck on account of sea-sickness. I was very 
 glad to leave my former one, on account of my chum 
 indulging a little too freely in Champagne, and other 
 strong drinks, to be at all times an agreeable compan- 
 ion. 
 
 Aug. 9. Saturday. — I begin this day's journal, with 
 some account of an occurrence, which I do not wish to 
 have repeated, and the thought of which almost makes 
 me shudder. Understanding that the steamers some 
 times passed within sight of Cape Race, the southern 
 point of Newfoundland, and knowing that we were ap- 
 proaching the neighborhood of that island, I mentioned 
 to one of the mates last evening, that I would like to be 
 informed of it, if we should chance to come in sight of 
 land. He replied that, on account of the density of the 
 fog, we should not, probably, see land at all, and, if Ave 
 did, we should not come in sight of it before 4 or 5 
 o'clock, next morning. I retired to my berth about 10, 
 and slept very soundly till midnight, when I awoke 
 and lay awake for some time ; but finally got into a 
 drowse, from which I was suddenly awakened at half 
 past one, A. M., by a violent concussion of the ship and 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 125 
 
 the stopping of the engine, which were immediately fol- 
 lowed by a careening of the ship, as though it would 
 roll entirely over upon its side. I felt it to be necessary 
 to seize hold upon the side of my berth, to prevent being 
 rolled out. Immediately I perceived that, there was 
 much noise and bustle in all parts of the ship, and, 
 knowing something must be wrong, I hastened on my 
 clothes, and was leaving my state-room to go on deck, 
 when I met my friend Holabird, who, fearing I was not 
 aware of our critical situation, had kindly come down 
 to let me know that, we had struck upon Cape Race. I 
 hastened upon deck, and found our ship with her star- 
 board side towards a long line of precipitous rocks, ris- 
 ing abruptly out of the ocean, and but a few rods from 
 us. But by this time, the engine was again in motion, 
 and we were now moving forward, nearly parallel to 
 the cliff ; and assurances that the ship had sustained no 
 injury, soon relieved us from our great anxiety. 
 
 It appeared that, at the time of the occurrence above 
 mentioned, in addition to the usual watch, the captain 
 and one of the mates were on deck ; but that the rocks 
 were not discovered, till the ship was close upon them, 
 and headed almost directly towards them. Upon seeing 
 the danger, the captain instantly gave the signal to stop 
 the engine and port the helm, by which the bow of the 
 ship was thrown round to the larboard, presenting the 
 starboard side to the shore, towards which it continued 
 to approach by the momentum previously acquired, till 
 the keel struck the bottom ; bat, the motion being side- 
 wise, the momentum was not expended on the point of 
 contact, but in causing the ship to careen, or roll towards 
 the shore. This sudden bringing round the ship's side 
 
126 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 towards the rocks, was, probably, the means of saving 
 it, and all on board, from destruction. Had it struck in 
 the direction in which it was previously moving, it 
 would, in all probability, have been wrecked, and 
 whether any on board would, in that case, have reached 
 the shore, is quite uncertain.* The life-boats on board 
 were not sufficient to carry one half of the passengers 
 and crew, and the scramble for places might have ren- 
 dered them useless ; and if they had been successfully 
 filled and got clear of the sinking ship, there would be 
 no certainty that a landing could be effected, on account 
 of the surf and precipitous nature of the shore. And in 
 case a landing was effected, the difficulties would not 
 
 * The captain was not disposed to admit that the ship did actually 
 strike the bottom at all. He pronounced the shock and careening of the 
 ship, to be the effect of stopping the engine suddenly, and of bringing 
 round the helm forcibly, at the same time, in order to change the 
 ■hip's course. But he appeared to be alone in that opinion. All else on 
 board were very sure that she strue'.; and among them were several old 
 and experienced sea-captains. 
 
 The arc of the great circle, which marks the shortest distance, along 
 the surface of the globe, between New York and Cowcs, passes oxer the 
 south part of Newfoundland, and, at proper seasons of the year, naviga- 
 tors endeavor to shorten their voyage, by keeping as close as practicab 
 to this arc. Consequently, they endeavor to pass as near to Cape Race, 
 as is consistent with a due regird to safety. Tut the almost perpetual 
 cloudiness and fogs, and the many currents in that part of the ocean, 
 render it impossible to know, at all times, the ship's true place. At the 
 time of our peril, the Humboldt was evidently several hours before her 
 reckoning. Bat, to exculpate Capt. L. from blame, in this catce, 1 would 
 remark that, the Humboldt's compass traversed so badly, that little con- 
 fidence could be placed in it, and that for some time previous to reaching 
 Cape Race, the weather had been so cloudy and foggy, as to render ob- 
 servations for time and place impracticable. 
 
LONDON AND THE GHEAT EXHIBITION. 127 
 
 be over; the region was cold, barren and uninhabited, 
 and the distance to the nearest settlement, many miles. 
 
 In my passage outward and back, I haA r e had occa- 
 sion, frequently, to reflect upon the scanty provision 
 made on our ships, for the safety of those on board, in 
 case of accident, and the occurrence of this morning, is 
 well calculated to revive the reflection. Supposing one 
 of these ships strike on a rock, an iceberg, or another 
 ship, or be on fire, and it is necessary to abandon her, 
 and there be life-boats, sufficient to carry only one half 
 on board, there would be an immediate rush to these 
 boats, and, each consulting only his own safety, there 
 would be such a struggle for place, that the boats would 
 be capsized or swamped, and all would, probably, per- 
 ish. On the other hand, if it were known that the safety 
 boats were sufficient to receive every soul on board, this 
 scramble for place would not occur, and the probability 
 of all being saved, would be very much greater, than 
 that any would escape, in a case like the former. It 
 appears to me that every ocean steamer had ought to be 
 obliged, by law, to carry a sufficient number of life-boats, 
 to receive on board them, every soul in the ship, in case 
 of accident. The metalic life-boats are now made so 
 light that their weight can form no objection, and to 
 prevent their occupying too much room on deck, they 
 might be nested into one another, like measures. 
 
 Passed an ocean steamer, supposed to be one of the 
 Cunard line, bound eastward, and several sailing ves- 
 sels, to-day. 
 
 August 10. Sunday. — Morning foggy and rainy, but 
 the sea quite tranquil. Before noon it cleared away, 
 and the weather became quite pleasant and comfortable, 
 
128 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 the temperature having become warmer and the air drier 
 than it had been for a long time, and it was generally 
 remarked that, the feeling of the air and the aspect of 
 the heavens, had become decidedly American. 
 
 Towards noon, Capt. Lines informed me that, there 
 had been a consultation among the passengers, and that 
 they were generally desirous of having religious services 
 on board, and had requested him to invite me to offi- 
 ciate. Knowing that our exposure to danger and our 
 providential escape, yesterday morning, had produced 
 very serious impressions upon the minds of many on 
 board, I consented, and half past 1, P. 3VL, was appointed 
 as the time for the services to commence. 
 
 At the time appointed, a very large proportion of 
 those on board, assembled in the dining saloon, where 
 I read the afternoon services for the eighth Sunday after 
 Trinity, with the exception of the substitution of the 
 107th Psalm, for the Psalms for the day. and the addi- 
 tion of the following collect, which I had endeavored to 
 adapt to the occasion : 
 
 COLLECT. 
 
 Most gracious Lord, whose mercies are over all thy works, we praise 
 and magnify thy glorious name, that thou hast been pleased to conduct 
 this ship and all on board, thus far in safety through the perils of the 
 great deep. Make us duly sensible of thy merciful providence towards 
 us, when brought, apparently, upon the bi-ink of destruction, thou 
 didst snatch us from the jaws of death, and didst remove from us the 
 iearfulness and anxiety with which we had been so suddenly overwhelmed. 
 Continue to us, Lord, thy gracious guidance and protection during 
 the remainder of our voyage, and when thou hast brought us in safety 
 to the h iven where we would be, enable us to express our thaukfulness, 
 by a holy trust in thy providence, and a willing obedience to all thy laws, 
 through Jesus Christ, our Redeemer. Amen. 
 
 My sermon was founded on the 18th versa of the 4th 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 129 
 
 chapter of the second epistle to the Corinthians. In it I 
 attempted a comparison between the mariner upon the 
 ocean, and the Christian upon the voyage of life, and 
 to show that both proceeded by faith, rather than sight; 
 that both were looking at objects unseen, except by faith 
 ■ — the mariner to the port to which he is bound, and the 
 christian to the haven of eternal rest. The audience 
 was very attentive, and though few conld take an audi- 
 ble part iii the services, for want of prayer books, (a 
 want, on this ship which I hope our Prayer Book Socie- 
 ties will soon supply,) they appeared generally to be 
 much interested in them. 
 
 The weather, since 10 o'clock this morning, has been 
 very fine, and the monotony of the ocean has been re- 
 lieved by the sight of a large number of sail, moving in 
 different directions. About sunset, we passed through 
 the largest school of Porpoises that I have ever yet seen. 
 The sea seemed to be literally alive with them, for miles 
 around. They were leaping out of the water, skipping 
 along the surface and cutting all manner of copers. At 
 one time I noticed several of them just below the surface 
 of the water, by the side of the ship, swimming the 
 same way the ship was running, as if in a race with it, 
 and, although the ship was running at the rate of 11 
 miles an hour, they seemed easily to keep pace with it. 
 There must have been, at least, a thousand Porpoises in 
 sight from the ship ; and they were accompanied, as 
 usual, by a large number of Petrels and Gullsj Among 
 the Petrels there seemed to be many belonging to a 
 larger species than those I had usually seen. The sun- 
 set to-night was very beautiful, resembling one of our 
 
 finest sun-sets at Burlmslon. As the sun was sinking 
 12 
 
130 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 beneath the ocean in the west, the full-orbed moon was 
 at the same time, rising in the east, forming altogether, 
 a most grand and interesting spectacle. To-night, it is 
 said, we shall pass Halifax, in Nova Scotia. 
 
 August 11. Monday. — Rose about 5, went on deck, 
 and found the morning delightful, and the prospect 
 cheered by the presence of a large number of fishing 
 vessels. By the help of his glass, the Captain was able 
 to enumerate 11 sail, in one small section of the horizon 
 in the north west, while many others were in sight, in 
 other directions. These fishing vessels are said to be 
 lying up St. George's Bank. Have noticed, to-day, 
 much sea- weed floating in the ocean ; but, as the deck is 
 about 20 feet above the surface of the water, I was una- 
 ble to secure any specimens of it. About 3 P. M., I 
 noticed, what appeared to me like a long line of break- 
 ers, crossing our course at some distance ahead. The 
 sea beyond, appeared in great commotion, and to be 
 higher than nearer the ship. We soon entered upon 
 these agitated waters, but found no increase of wind, 
 and were told that the phenomenon was occasioned by 
 the tide running northwardly, over the shoals towards 
 the bay of Fundy. About sun-set, a steamer was seen 
 some 15 miles to the south-east of us, headed towards 
 New- York, and it is supposed to be the Africa, which 
 was to leave Liverpool on the 2d inst. We have had 
 another beautiful sun-setting and moon-rising, and the 
 sea is now quite calm, but the fogs seem to be gathering 
 around us. 
 
 August 12. Tuesday. — Was awakened a little after 
 midnight by the stopping of the engine, and arose and 
 went on deck to learn the cause, when I was told it was 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 131 
 
 for the purpose of taking soundings, we being then on 
 Nantucket shoals. The same operation was repeated 
 several times before morning, by which our progress was 
 much hindered; but between 4 and 5 A. M., we took a 
 pilot on board, to conduct the ship into ^Sew York, 
 which we hoped to reach in the evening. About 10 
 A, M., a steamer could be discerned in the distance 
 ahead of us, supposed to be the same seen last night, 
 and to have passed us during our delay on the shoals. 
 Came in sight of Long Island, about 1 P. M. Ther- 
 mometer in the shade 81°. This morning, a large shark 
 was seen over the side of the ship : was not on deck at 
 the time. 
 
 Have passed many sail to-day, and during the after- 
 noon had a good view of the light-house at Fire Island, 
 a locality rendered memorable by the shipwreck, in 
 which the gifted Countess D'Ossili (Miss Fuller,) lost 
 her life, and the statue of John C. Calhoun was sunk. 
 About the same time, Neversink. in New Jersey, hove 
 in sight. We passed Sandy Hook, just as the full-orbed 
 moon was rising, red as blood, from the bosom of the 
 ocean, and came in sight of the numerous lights, which 
 were just beginning to twinkle along the Jersey shore. 
 We reached the quarantine ground about 9 in the eve- 
 ning, where we were detained an hour, before we could 
 get a physician on board, and have permission to pro- 
 ceed. At length we were again underway, and at 11 
 o'clock, the Humboldt was safely moored at her pier, 
 No. 4. North River, Many of the passengers are going 
 on shore, at this late hour, but I have concluded to 
 remain on board till morning. 
 
 Having shown Capt. Lines my abstract of the Log of 
 
132 
 
 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 the Steamship Franklin, during our passage out, {see 
 page 28 7 ) he, to-day, very generously furnished me with 
 the following abstract of his own Log-book, during our 
 present voyage. 
 
 Cowes to 
 
 ABSTRACT LOG. 
 New York — Steam Ship Humboldt. 
 
 D. LIKES, COMMANDER. 
 
 Date 
 
 Latitude 
 
 Long. : Dist. 
 
 '1 her mo. 
 
 Barcm. 
 
 Rotations i oal. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 Not 
 
 •th. | 
 
 West. [Run. 
 
 1 
 
 Air. 
 
 Wat'r 
 
 Inches. 
 
 Engine. 
 
 Tons. 
 
 July 31 
 
 49° 
 
 50' 1 
 
 4* 
 
 30' 140 
 
 68^ 
 
 62° 
 
 29,80 
 
 9,077 
 
 44 
 
 Aug. 1 
 
 49 
 
 50 
 
 9 
 
 47 ! 204 
 
 66 
 
 62 
 
 29,80 
 
 14,076 
 
 59 
 
 t( 
 
 49 
 
 50 
 
 14 
 
 37 186 
 
 66 
 
 62 
 
 29,50 
 
 11,783 
 
 50 
 
 " 3 
 
 49 
 
 50 
 
 19 
 
 35 190 
 
 67 
 
 63 
 
 29,70 
 
 11,971 
 
 51 
 
 " 4 
 
 49 
 
 27 
 
 25 
 
 30 230 
 
 64 
 
 63 
 
 29,90 
 
 15,410 
 
 69 
 
 " 5 
 
 49 
 
 5 31 
 
 30 238 
 
 67 
 
 63 
 
 29,60 
 
 15,730 
 
 63 
 
 " 6 
 
 48 
 
 40 37 
 
 218 
 
 62 
 
 62 
 
 29,40 
 
 15,460 
 
 69 
 
 " 7 
 
 48 
 
 21 
 
 43 
 
 5 245 
 
 61 
 
 61 
 
 29,70 
 
 16,057 
 
 64 
 
 '< 8 
 
 47 
 
 19 
 
 49 
 
 20 260 
 
 m 
 
 52 
 
 30,00 
 
 18,783 
 
 62 
 
 « 9 
 
 45 
 
 55 
 
 55 
 
 S3 265 
 
 60 
 
 56 
 
 29,90 
 
 18,708 
 
 64 
 
 « 10 
 
 44 
 
 18 
 
 61 
 
 15 256 
 
 63 
 
 60 
 
 29,50 
 
 ] 8,622 
 
 55 
 
 » 11 
 
 42 
 
 9 
 
 66 
 
 30 256 
 
 66 
 
 63 
 
 29,80 
 
 19,445 
 
 63 
 
 « 12 
 
 40 
 
 37 72 
 
 261 
 
 m 
 
 66 
 
 29,90 
 
 19,334 
 
 66 
 
 P. M. 
 
 40 
 
 42' 74 
 
 2 12C 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 8,350 
 
 t 29 
 
 1 
 
 
 3068 
 
 
 212,806 808 
 
 The Humboldt left Cowes, at 10 o'clock in the eve- 
 ning of the 30th of July, and arrived at New York at 
 11 o'clock on the evening of the 12th of August. Hence, 
 allowing five hours for difference of longitude, the total 
 time from Cowes to New York, was 13 days and 6 
 hours — 10 hours longer than my passage out from New 
 York to Cowes, in the Franklin. 
 
 In the following Chart, the dotted line marks the 
 Franklin's passage out, and the continuous line the 
 Humboldt's passage back. The number show the ship's 
 position at noon, on the successive days of each voyage. 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 133 
 
 CHART — Routes of the Steam-Ships Franklin and Hdmeoldt. 
 
 • . .-' : " ^ ' : •* 
 
 
 
 ■ .■/,■■■■■.■ ■■'^ ^'■.■;:' 
 
 August 13. Wednesday. — After the inspection of my 
 baggage by the Custom House officer, I had it transfer- 
 red to the Steamer Troy, which was to leave for Troy 
 in the evening, and then spent the day in the city. I 
 could see very much in New- York, which contrasted 
 favorably with what I had seen in Paris and London ; 
 but, in one thing, that of cleanliness, I was sorry to no- 
 tice that she fell far behind those old foreign cities. Be- 
 tween 5 and 6 P. M., I came on board the Troy, which 
 left New- York a little after 6. The day has been ex- 
 ceedingly warm, and the heat more oppressive than at 
 any time since I left Burlington. 
 
 August 14. Thursday. — Was awakened at 3 A. M., 
 by the stopping of the engine. Went on deck and found 
 the boat stuck in the mud, some 20 miles below Albany. 
 We got underway again, after a delay of about an hour, 
 and reached Troy a little after 5. Left, in the cars for 
 Whitehall, at (5, went on board the Steamer United 
 States, Capt. Davis, at Whitehall, at 9, A. M., and ar- 
 rived at Burlington at 4, P. M., having been absent 11 
 weeks and 2 days, of which 2 weeks were spent in Paris 
 and 5 in London, and having travelled about 7500 miles. 
 
 And now I close my journal ; grateful te those, whose 
 liberality lias enabled me to see and enjoy so much, and 
 to that God, who has watched over, protected and re- 
 turned me in safety and improved health to my dear 
 familv. and my many kind friends. 
 
 12* 
 
131 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 NOTES. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 Before taking my final leave of London, I had intended 
 to enter on my journal, some general observations re- 
 specting that wonderful metropolis. But as I found no 
 time to carry out that intention, I will here append a 
 few remarks. 
 
 London as it now exists, comprises what were, an- 
 ciently, the city of London and its liberties, the city of 
 Westminster, the Tower hamlets, and the boroughs of 
 Finsbury, Marylebone, Southwark and Lambeth, with 
 their respective suburbs; besides several villages in 
 Middlesex and Surry. All these, though originally dis- 
 tinct, are now swallowed up in London, the great Me- 
 tropolis of the British Empire. 
 
 The territory occupied by London as it is, is oval, or 
 egg-shaped. Its longest diameter is from east to west — 
 from Bow to Hammersmith, and measures 11 miles. Its 
 width from north to south — from Hollo way to Stockwell, 
 is 6 miles. Its circumference, exceeds 30 miles, and its 
 area, including the river, is about 40 square miles. The 
 width of the Thames at London Bridge, is 310 yards, 
 at Waterloo Bridge 400, and about the same at the 
 Tunnel. The length of the Thames within the Me- 
 tropolis, is 7 miles, and it is crossed by 7 bridges, two 
 of which are iron, and the others stone. The sweep of 
 the tide at London Bridge is 19 feet, and the tide flows 
 up the Thames 15 miles above that Bridge. No large 
 shipping is seen above London Bridge, but the river be- 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 135 
 
 low, for three or four miles, and all the extensive col- 
 lateral docks, are filled with ships. 
 
 The statistics of London are such as to appear almost 
 incredible, even to a person who has seen it. It is stated 
 that it contains more than 80 parks and squares, more 
 than 10,000 streets, lanes and courts, 250,000 houses, 
 and 2,100,000 inhabitants, besides, 100,000 strangers. 
 Of these 180,000 houses and 1,500,000 inhabitants are 
 on the north side of the river, and 70,000 houses and 
 700,000 inhabitants, are on the south side. 
 
 The places of public worship, in London, amount, to 
 upwards of 750. Of these, 340 are Episcopal churches 
 or chapels, 20 belong to the Roman Catholics, 14 to for- 
 eign Protestants, 370 to different Protestant dissenters ; 
 and there are 8 Jewish synagogues. St. Paul's Cathe- 
 dral and Westminster Abbey, the two most interesting 
 religious edifices, have been mentioned in my journal. 
 
 The royal palaces and mansions of the nobility in and 
 about London, are very numerous, and some of them 
 very large and elegant. Buckingham Palace, situated 
 at the west end of St. James' Park, and south of Green 
 Park, is the present town residence of Her Majesty, 
 Queen Victoria, and is a very large and imposing mass 
 of buildings. Its situation is retired, airy and delightful. 
 
 The new Houses of Parliament, when completed, will 
 constitute the largest structure in London, the Crystal 
 Palace only excepted. It presents a noble eastern front- 
 age, towards the river of nearly 1000 feet in length, and 
 covers an area of nine acres. The height of its great 
 tower is to be 346 feet. Beside the splendid rooms 
 of the two houses of Parliament, the number of official 
 residences, offices, committee-rooms, courts, lobbies, 
 
JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 corridors, dining and washing-rooms, &c, is astonish- 
 ingly great. Its cubic contents exceed 15,000,000 feet, 
 being greater, by one half, than St. Paul's. It contains 
 nearly 600 distinct apartments, among which is to be 
 a chapel for divine worship. The old houses of Parlia- 
 ment were destroyed by fire, October 15, 1834, and 
 these were commenced in 1840. The best view of them 
 is from the river, or rather, from the opposite bank, 
 between Westminster bridge and Lambeth Palace. 
 
 London is now, not merely the largest city in the 
 known world, but it exceeds in opulence, splendor and 
 luxury, (perhaps in misery,) all that ever was recorded 
 of any city. It may safsly be affirmed to be the largest 
 congregate mass of human life, arts, science, wealth, 
 power and architectural splendor, which exists, or ever 
 has existed within the known annals of mankind. It 
 contains, upon a territory about the size of a township 
 seven miles square, a population more than six times as 
 great as that of the whole State of Vermont, or equal 
 to 350 such villages as Burlington. 
 
 London, though abounding in parks and palaces and 
 theatres — though abounding in religious, literary and 
 scientific establishments, is yet, emphatically a business 
 place. It is the great central manufactory and ware- 
 house of the world. Every morning, hundreds — yea, 
 thousands of the lofty chimnies of her factories, are seen 
 belching forth volumes of black smoke, and before noon, 
 the heavens are usually obscured, and the city envelop- 
 ed in a dark, sooty cloud. This smoke condenses upon 
 the buildings and other objects, giving the whole city a 
 dirty and dingy aspect. The Portland and most other 
 kinds of stone, used in building, is naturally of a light 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 137 
 
 cream color, or nearly white, but here, it soon becomes 
 blackened and stained, giving to the finest and most ex- 
 pensive building a most unsightly aspect. 
 
 The fogs, and smoke, and dust, and noise of London 
 are subjects of very general remark, and for very good 
 reasons with regard to most of them. But the burden 
 of these is confined chiefly to the line of the great 
 thoroughfares along the river. Back from the river, in 
 the higher and newer parts of the city, the annoyance 
 from these causes, is comparatively trifling. Along 
 Fleet street, the Strand and Piccadilly street, during the 
 continuance of the Exhibition, there were, from 8 in the 
 morning till 10 at night, two continuous streams of om- 
 nibuses and other carriages, one stream running to, and 
 the other from the Crystal Palace ; and the rattle and 
 thunder of so many heavy carriages, caused the very 
 earth to tremble. These carriages succeeded each other 
 so closely, that a person was often obliged to wait for a 
 considerable time before he could find sufnicient space 
 between them, to allow him to cross the street. In the 
 United States, carriages are obliged, or at least, are ex- 
 pected, to keep the right hand side of the way in pass- 
 ing other carriages moving in an opposite direction. But 
 the reverse of this is the case here. Here all carriages 
 are obliged to keep the left hand side, and. effectually to 
 enforce the observance of this rule, policemen were sta- 
 tioned, at short distances, all along the centre of Picca- 
 dilly street, who did not allow a carriage to pass them 
 in violation of it. 
 
 The Police regulations are, probably, not surpassed 
 by those of any other city in the world. The average 
 amount of police force, is about 5000, but on account of 
 
138 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 the great influx of foreigners to the Exhibition, it has 
 been much increased this year. The policemen are dis- 
 tinguished by a modest blue uniform coat, with their let- 
 ter and number marked upon its standing collar. They 
 are distributed over the whole city, and are, therefore, 
 every where at hand, and always ready to answer any 
 inquiries, or to guide you to any place you may wish 
 to find. During my five weeks' stay in London, I 
 never knew, or heard of any one, making inquiries of a 
 policeman, whose application was not kindly received 
 and attended to : and I have frequently seen them put 
 themselves to considerable trouble, to show people on 
 their way. 
 
 In the midst of the vast throngs in the streets of Lon- 
 don, I noticed very little of drunkenness, quarreling, or 
 disorder of any kind. Nearly ^11 seemed intent solely 
 upon their own pursuits, showing little disposition to 
 notice or intermeddle in the affairs of others. I do not 
 recollect to have noticed more than one drunken man 
 who manifested any disposition to produce disturbance 
 in the streets, and he was soon taken in charge by the 
 police. 
 
 In judging of the comparative advantages of London 
 and Paris, as places of residence, persons will be influ- 
 enced very much by their tastes, habits and objects. 
 The climate of Paris is undoubtedly most pleasant. It 
 has less fog and smoke, and the streets, generally, are 
 cleaner. But in parks and open squares, the newer parts 
 of London have the advantage over Paris. In the 
 northern and western parts of London, the streets are, 
 for the most part, straight, broad, well paved, clean and 
 airy, and about one eighth part of the whole territory is 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 139 
 
 reserved for public squares. These squares are, in many 
 cases, inclosed by handsome iron fences, and within, are 
 planted with flowers, shrubs and shade trees, forming 
 cool and delightful walks, during the hot weather : and 
 some of them are furnished with the additional luxury 
 of refreshing fountains. 
 
 St. Paul's, in London, is in latitude 51° 32', and in 
 longitude 6 J 37' ' west from Greenwich Observatory. 
 The following are the distances from London to impor- 
 tant places, viz : 
 
 To Windsor 20 To Amsterdam - 190 
 
 " Oxford - - -56 " Berlin - - - 540 
 " Southampton - 60 " Copenhagen - 610 
 
 St, Petersburgh - 1 140 
 
 Bristol - - - 118 
 
 Birmingham - 112 " Vienna - _ 820 
 York - - - 19G « Constantinople - 1660 
 
 950 
 860 
 
 Dublin - - 838 " Lisbon - - 850 
 Paris - - - 225 " New York - - 3200 
 
 Liverpool - - 201 " Borne 
 Edinburgh - - 395 " Madrid 
 
 THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 
 
 The idea of a Grand Exhibition of the Works of In- 
 dustry of all Nations, seems to have originated with 
 Prince Albert, and by him, seconded by the efforts of 
 the Society of Arts, to have been embodied into a reality. 
 Mainly through his instrumentality, a Royal Warrant 
 was granted, Jan. 3, 1850, appointing a Board of Com- 
 missioners to consider the matter, and on the loth of 
 August following, the Commission was incorporated by 
 a Royal Charter. Contributions and subscriptions were 
 then sought, and also, designs and plans of a building 
 
140 JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 suitable to serve the purposes of such an Exhibition. 
 At length after much perplexity and delay, a plan and 
 estimate were submitted by Mr. Paxton, then Head Gar- 
 dener at Chatworth, which were adopted by the Com- 
 mission, and a contract was made with Messrs. Fox and 
 Henderson, for the erection of the Crystal Palace. The 
 Commission were to pay £76,000 for the construction of 
 the building, and the materials were to belong to the 
 contractors, and be removed by them at the close of the 
 Exhibition; but, if the Commission should conclude, 
 permanently, to retain the building, they could do it, by 
 the payment of £150,000 to the contractors. The 
 building was to be in readiness for the opening of the 
 Exhibition on the 1st day of May, 1851. 
 
 The Crystal Palace is situated in Hyde Park, and 
 very near the south side. It is built in the form of a 
 parallelogram and is made entirely of glass and iron, 
 excepting a ceiling of boards around the base, for the 
 convenience of hanging up articles for exhibition, and 
 where glass would be in great danger of being broken. 
 The lower floor is of trellis-boards, laid upon sleepers, 
 with open spaces between the boards about an inch wide. 
 The gallery floors are without openings. 
 
 The length of the building is 1848 feet — a number 
 less, by 3 than 1851, the date of the Exhibition. The 
 width of the building is 408 feet, with an addition on 
 the north side of 936 feet and 48 wide. The height of 
 the main building is 76 feet, but nearly midway it is 
 crossed by a transept with a semi-circular roof, made 
 108 feet high, for the purpose of inclosing a group of 
 trees. It also serves to improve the appearance of the 
 building. The main parallelogram is formed, longitu- 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 141 
 
 dinally, into 11 divisions, which are, alternately, 24 and 
 48 feet wide, with the exception of the great central 
 walk, or nave, which is 72 feet wide. The entire area 
 of the ground floor is 798,912 square feet, or a little over 
 18 acres. The building is in three lofts, one behind 
 another, so that the ends show as a pyramid of three 
 steps, as may be seen by the cut introduced as a frontis- 
 piece to this volume. 
 
 The columns are of iron, cast hollow, and, for the 
 most part, stand 24 feet apart each way. The number 
 of columns is stated to be 3230. The number of cast-iron 
 girders is 2244, for supporting the galleries and roofs, 
 with 1128 intermediate bearers, besides 358 wrought- 
 iron trusses. The roof, which consists of glass and iron 
 is thrown into ridges and vallies, 8 feet across, and run- 
 ning transversely ; and these vallies are directed to the 
 heads of the several columns, so that the water which 
 falls on the various sections of the roof, is conveyed im- 
 mediately into the heads of the hollow columns, and 
 through them to the earth beneath. The length of all 
 these gutters is 44 miles. There are in the building, more 
 than 200 miles of sash bars, and 900,000 superficial feet 
 of glass. The entrances to the building are at the south 
 end of the transept, and at the east and west end of the 
 main building. There are several other places of exit 
 along the sides of the building. 
 
 The Crystal Palace being completed, and the neces- 
 sary arrangements made, the Great Exhibition was 
 opened with much form and ceremony, on the 1st day 
 of May, 1851. The principal exercises on the occasion 
 were : An Address to the Queen, from the Royal Com- 
 mission, read by His Royal Highness, Prince Albert: 
 
 13 
 
m JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO PARIS, 
 
 Her Majesty's Reply; and a Prayer by the Archbishop 
 
 of Canterbury. From this time, up to the final close of 
 
 the Exhibition, on the 15th of October, the Palace was 
 
 continually thronged with visitants, varying from 
 
 25,000 to 80,000, daily. The price of admission to the 
 
 Exhibition, varied at the different stages of it, and on 
 
 different days of the week. At the opening, season 
 
 tickets Were sold for very high prices ; but, during most 
 
 of the time, the price of admission was Is. on Mondays, 
 
 Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays. On Fridays 
 
 it was 2s. U 7 and on Saturdays 5s. All exhibitors were 
 
 furnished with free tickets. 
 
 As a general rule, articles from each of the different 
 countries, occupied a separate department of the build- 
 ing. As might have been expected, Great Britain and 
 her dependencies, furnished about one half of the arti- 
 cles exhibited, and occupied the whole of the building 
 west of the transept. The part occupied by the United 
 States was at the east end. Between this and the tran- 
 sept, were arranged, in order, the productions of other 
 coimtries-as Russia, the German States, Austria, Bel- 
 gium, France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Egypt, Turkey, 
 Greece, Persia, Switzerland, China, Brazil and Tunis. 
 The transept and nave of the Palace were occupied by 
 fountains, models of cities, buildings and bridges, and a 
 very great variety of choice specimens of statuary. At 
 the centre of the crossing of the transept and nave was 
 a beautiful fountain, 10 or 12 feet high, made entirely of 
 olass, and called the crystal fountain. There were sev- 
 eral other fountains playing in different parts ot the 
 building. For the proper examination of the articles 
 and the award of prizes, they were divided into 31 
 
LONDON AND THE GREAT EXHIBITION. 143 
 
 classes, according td their nature, and the same number 
 of juries appointed. Each of these consisted of an equal 
 number of British and foreign jurors, and each had its 
 chairman ; and the chairmen of the several juries con- 
 stituted the. Council. The awards were two kinds of 
 Medals, called the Council Medals and the Prize Medals. 
 As a general thing, the Council Medals were intended 
 to denote genius, contrivance, or mental superiority of 
 some kind, while excellency of material, workmanship, 
 product &c, were: rewarded by Prize Medals. The 
 whole number of exhibitors of articles was about 17,000, 
 and the whole number of articles submitted to the ex- 
 amination of the juries, exceeded 1,000,000. The whole 
 number of Medals awarded was 3088, Of these 170 
 were Council Medals and 2918 Prize Medals. Four 
 Council Medals and 94 Prize Medals, (making 98 in all.) 
 were awarded to exhibitors from the United States, and 
 the whole number of exhibitors from the United States 
 was 534. Hence it appears, that the United States re- 
 ceived 7 medals more than their proportion, according 
 to the number of exhibitors. Fourteen articles were 
 sent from Vermont, and 3 Prize Medals were awarded 
 to contributors from this State. 
 
 The close of the Exhibition, on the 15th of October, 
 was attended with much less display and ceremony 
 than its opening, on the 1st day of May. The chief 
 exercises Were : The reading of the reports of the Ju- 
 ries, by Viscount Canning; Prince Albert's reply; 
 Prayer by the Bishop of London ; and Music by the 
 Choir, 
 
INDEX 
 
 Abbey, Westminster, 92. Green House, 10. 
 
 100, 111. jGulls,17. 
 
 ^cultural Society ,41. \H*lle auxVms, 08. 
 Airy, Professor, 81, H*™**' ' 3 ' 
 /7rr de Triomphe de Havre, 29, Ob. 
 * -JBrilf, SB. Henry VIL's Chapel 10( 
 
 Archbishop of Canter- Horticultural Soo., 43. 
 
 h r v 88 \ Hotel desEtrangers, 31 
 
 J^ttne Tower," » 1^^,46, 
 
 103 J Hypopotamus, 00. 
 
 Ball to the Queen, 85. Icebergs, 15. 
 
 JJe/uga Zeucas, 8b. £r Pf*™\„ planUi 30 Refraction, Effectof, 14 
 Bibliotheque du Roy, Ujardt n-de s-J Ian*., o-, ^.^ ^ 
 
 Botanical Gardens, 40 08 41 54. L£^ of T 4C> 
 
 British Association, 68. Jewel House, 11*. 24 _ 
 
 Cedar of Lebanon 40. Lan^etb 88 Sea J ickness , 12, 117. 
 
 C»— J- ** arS ' g- l Llb ? ry ' Na^onal? 45 Sedgwick , Professor, 7« 
 Champ S -Elysees,te.J ^ Hagg j^nse- Skip-Jacks, l3 . 
 
 Phosphorescence of the 
 Sea, 13, 119, 121. • 
 
 Place de la Concorde, 51 
 
 Plain Breakfast, 59. 
 
 Porpoises, 1G, 18. 117, 
 129. 
 
 Prince Albert, 70. 
 
 Race, Cape, 124. 
 
 Raleigh's Cell, 103. 
 
 Rail-Way Cars, CI. 
 
 Rainbows, 121. 
 
 'Regalia, 104. 
 
 Charing Cross Bridge,96i 
 
 Chart, 133. 
 
 Chiffoniers, 55. 
 
 Coprolites, 75. 
 
 Cowes, 27. 
 
 Crag, 73. 
 
 Crystal Palace, G6, 95 
 
 99,114,140. 
 Day's length, 20. 
 Diamond, Koh-i- noor, Luxembourg, 49 
 
 ,r, 33 ens, 1/. ^ o L ^.fT^Hni. 
 
 I urn, -3. 
 Living in Paris, 52. 
 Loaan, Mr., 84. 
 -Dg Books, 28,132. 
 
 London, 134. 
 
 Longitude at sea, 22. 
 
 Lords, House of, 66. 
 |L r -uvre, 42. 
 
 14. 
 
 Soiree, 111 
 Somerset House, 97. 
 Southampton, 59. 
 St. Germain Church, 43. 
 St. Martin 's-in-the- 
 1 Fields, 63. 
 
 St Pancreas' Ch., 101. 
 
 St. Paul's Church, 98, 
 i 113. 
 
 Sunday in Paris, 34. 
 
 Sunrise, 23. 
 
 Sunset, 129. 
 
 iTower of London, 103. 
 
 D'Obisny, rrotessor, oo ens, *■• Tower of Lond 
 
 Vo g ne\ighthouse/^ 
 
 E X cursion,Geological,/2 J' ^Garden of ^te,4U * ^ 
 
 Exhibition, Great 
 Fire Island, 131. 
 Fishing, 18. 
 Flower Markets, 39. 
 Flying Fish, 15. 
 Forbes, Professor, 62,68 
 Fossils of Crag, 77. 
 Garden of Plants, 39,o4. 
 Grand Banks, 14,123. 
 Great Exhibition, 139. 
 
 mlNational Gallery, 84. &*££ffij™ 
 
 Needles, 26. iVattemare, A. 6Z. 
 
 Nelson's Monument, 63. Versailles, 48 
 
 Notre Dame Church, 
 Owen, Professor, 70. 
 Pantheon, 50. 
 Peace Congress^ 104. 
 Penitentiary, 87. 
 Petrels, 17. 
 Phillips, Professor, 73. 
 
 Waterloo Bridge, 97. 
 Waves, Height of, 120. 
 jWhales, 19, 118. 
 Whirlwind, 122. 
 Wimbledon Common, 99 
 Wren, Christopher, 113. 
 
 tit 63 3