//-//.jf'//,> rut /u/ sr?//s //a DIARY OF A TOUR IN NORTH WALES, IN THE YEAR 1774. TO WHICH IS ADDED AN ESSAY ON THE CORN LAWS. BY SAMUEL JOHNSON, LL.D, I should like to read ALL that Ogden has written. Johnson if \/ \%^ PHILADELPHIA: PUBLISHED BY HARRISON HALL, AT THE PORT FOLIO OFFICE. J. Maxwell, Printer. 1817, c - TO EDWARD SWINBURNE, Esq. From an uninterrupted intimacy of nearly twenty years, I claim the privi- lege of dedicating these pages to you. Dr. Johnson, for his moral and ethi- cal writings, has been too long celebrat- ed, to give his name any additional claim to your attention: but when you read his comparison of the beauties of Hawkestone and Ham, you will per- ceive, perhaps for the first time, that he was equally interested in those beauties of nature which have so often delighted you, and which you have so often ex- quisitely represented. a2 This fragment, as a literary curio- sity, I hope will not disappoint you; for although it may not contain any striking and important facts, or luminous pas- sages of fine writing, it cannot be unin- teresting to know how the mind of such a man as Johnson received new impres- sions, or contemplated for the first time scenes and occupations unknown to him before. Accept, therefore, this gift from one who has great pleasure in subscribing himself Your sincere friend, R. DUPPA. Lincoln's Inn y Sept. 18, 1816. PREFACE. To publish whatever has fallen from the pen of a celebrated author has been reckoned among the vices of our time; but those who admire great or extraor- dinary qualities have also a desire to know the individual to whom they be- long, and to have his likeness and his portrait, as if he were one of ourselves. This Journal of Dr. Johnson exhi- bits his mind when he was alone, when no one was looking on, and when no one was expected to adopt his thoughts, or to be influenced by them: in this re- spect it differs from the conversations and anecdotes already published: it has also another value, highly interesting; it shows how his mind was influenced bv the impression of external things, and in what way he recorded those facts, which he laid up for future reflection. His "Journey to the Western Isl- ands of Scotland," was probably com- posed from a diary not more ample: for of that work he says, " I deal more in notions than in facts:" and this is the ge- neral character of his mind; though when Boswell expressed a fear, lest his journal should be encumbered with too many minute particulars, he said, " There is nothing, sir, too little for so little a creature as man. It is by study- ing little things that we attain the great art of having as little misery, and as much happiness, as possible." Dr. Johnson commenced his journey into Wales, July 5, 1774, in company with Mr. and Mrs. Thrale, and their daughter, now lady Keith, and returned August 25th. On the same morning that he left Streatham, he wrote a letter to his friend, Bennet Langton, in which he informs him of this excursion, and of the state of his health. "I have just begun to print my Journey to the Hebrides, and am leav- ing the press, to take another journey into Wales, whither Mr* Thrale is go- ing, to take possession of at least five hundred a year, fallen to his lady. " I have never recovered from the last dreadful illness, but I flatter myself that I grow better: much, however, yet remains to mend." In the prosecution of this tour, what- ever was his own gratification or disap- pointment, he appears but little to have gratified the curiosity of others; for Bos- well says, " I do not find that he kept 10 any journal, or notes of what he saw in his tour in Wales. All that I heard him say of it was, that instead of bleak and barren mountains, there were green and fertile ones; and that one of the castles in Wales would contain all the castles that he had seen in Scotland." This Diary, which is now for the first time presented to the public, will fill up the chasm in the Life of Johnson, which his biographer was unable to supply. For its authenticity, I will pledge myself: but if there should be any who are desirous to gratify their curiosity, or to satisfy their judgment, the original MS. in the hand-writing of Dr. John- son, is in the possession of the publisher, where it may at any time be seen. The editor acknowledges his obli- gation to Mrs. Piozzi, for her kind as- 11 sistance in explaining many facts in this Diary, which could not otherwise have been understood. A JOURNEY * INTO NORTH WALES, IN THE YEAR 1774. July 5, Tuesday. We left Strea- tham* 11 a. m. Price of 4 horses 2s. a mile. 6. Barnet 1 40' p. m. On the road I read Tally's Epistles. At night at Dunstable. * A village in Surry, about six miles from London; the residence of Mr. Thrale. During the life of Mr. Thrale, his house was the resort of the most eminent and distinguished charac- ters of his time. Here Johnson was domesti- cated, and Garrick, and Goldsmith, and Burke? and sir Joshua Reynolds, were often found. 14 To Lichfield, 83 miles. To the Swan.* 7. To the cathedral. To Mrs. Porter's.f * When at this place Mrs. Thrale gives an anecdote of Johnson, to show his minute atten- tion to things which might reasonably have been supposed out of the range of his observation. " When I came down to breakfast at the inn, my dress did not please him, and he made me alter it entirely before he would stir a step with us about the town, saying most satirical things concerning the appearance I made in a riding- habit; and adding, i 'Tis very strange that such eyes as yours cannot discern propriety of dress: if I had a sight only half as good, I think I should see to the centre.' " Johnson has contrived to introduce the city of Lichfield into his dictionary of the English language, from its having been the place of his birth. " Lichfield, the field of the dead, a city in Staffordshire, so named from martyred chris- tians. Salve magna parens," t Mrs. Lucy Porter. A step-daughter to Dr. Johnson. Her brother, a captain in the navy, had left her a fortune of ten thousand IS To Mrs. Aston's.* / To Mr. Green's.f Mr, Green's museum was much ad- mired, and Mr. Newton's! china. pounds; about a third of which she laid out in building a stately house, and making a hand- some garden, in an elevated situation in Lich- field. Johnson, when he visited Lichfield alone, lived at her house. She reverenced him, and he had a parental tenderness for her. Appen- dix 1. * Mrs. Elizabeth Aston, a daughter of sir Thomas Aston. She lived at Stow Hill, an emi- nence adjoining to Lichfield. Appendix 2. t Mr. Richard Green was an apothecary, and related to Dr. Johnson He had a consider- able collection of antiquities, natural curiosi- ties, and ingenious works of art. He had all the articles accurately arranged, with their names upon labels, and on the stair-case leading to it was a board, with the names of contributors marked in gold letters. A printed catalogue of the collection was to be had at a bookseller's. % Mr. Newton was a gentleman, long resi- 16 8. To Mr. Newton's. To Mrs. Cobb's.* Dr. Darwin's.f I went again to Mrs. Aston's. She was very sorry to part. dent in Lichfield, who had acquired a large for- tune in the East Indies. * Mrs. Cobb was a widow lady, who lived at a place called the Friary, close to Lichfield. She was a great admirer ol Johnson, though it would seem, if miss Seward's statement be correct, he had but little admiration for her. " Mrs. Cobb knows nothing, has read nothing; and where nothing is put into the brain, nothing can come out of it to any purpose of rational entertainment." Miss Seward, however, ob- serves, that although she was illiterate, her un- derstanding was strong, her perceptions quick, her wit shrewd, comic, sarcastic, and original. t Dr. Erasmus Darwin. At this time he lived at Lichfield, where he had practised as a physician from the year 1756, and did not settle at Derby till after his second marriage with Mrs. Pool, in the year 1781. 17 9. Breakfasted at Mr. Garrick's.* Visited miss Vyse.f Miss Seward. $ Miss Seward says, that although Dr, John- son visited Lichfield while Dr. Darwin lived there, they had only one or two interviews, and never afterwards sought each other. Mutual and strong dislike subsisted between them. Dr. Darwin died April 18, 1802. in the sixty-ninth year of his age, * This gentleman was Mr. Peter Garrick, brother to David Garrick, and bore a striking resemblance to him. Johnson speaking of him to Boswell says, " Sir, I don't know but if Peter had cultivated all the arts of gayety as much as David has done, he might have been as brisk and lively. Depend upon it, sir, vivacity is much an art, and depends greatly on habit." t A daughter of the Rev. archdeacon Vjse, of the diocess of Lichfield and Coventry. ^ Miss Seward was the daughter of the Rev. Thomas Seward, canon-residentiary of the cathe- dral of Lichfield. Six volumes of letters by this lady, published since her death, have put the public in full possession of the kind of inti- b2 18 Went to Dr. Taylor's.* I read a little on the road in Tully's Epistles and Martial, Mart. 8th, 44, lino pro linio.f Morning, at church. Company at dinner. 11. At Ham. At Oakover. I was less pleased with Ham than when I saw it first, but my friends were much de- lighted 4 , macy, or friendship which subsisted between her and Dr. Johnson. * Dr. Taylor, of Ashbourne, in Derbyshire. Dr. Johnson's old friend and schoolfellow; of whom he said, — " He is better acquainted with my heart than any man or woman now living.'' Afifi. 3. t The verse in Martial is " Defluat, et lento splendescat turbida limo." The epigram is addressed to Flaccus, and in the common editions of Martial it has the num- ber 45, and not 44. \ Ham is the celebrated residence of Mr. Porte, at the entrance of Dovedale. Notwith- 19 12. At Chatsworth. The water willow. The cascade, shot out from many spouts. The fountains. The standing Johnson was less pleased with his se- cond visit to Ham than the first, yet he has in this Diary given very ample proof that he en- joyed its beauties. In July, 1777, Dr. Johnson took Boswell to see this place, which would seem to be the third time, at least, that he had been there; and this is the account Boswell gives of the visit. " I recollect a very fine amphitheatre, surrounded with hills, covered with woods, and walks neatly formed along the side of a rocky steep, on the quarter next the house, with recesses under pro- jections of rock, overshadowed with trees; in one of which recesses, we were told, Congreve wrote his "Old Bachelor." We viewed a remark- able natural curiosity at Ham; two rivers bursting near each other from the rock, not from imme- diate springs, but after having run for many miles under ground. Plott, in his " History ot Staf- fordshire," gives an account of this curiosity; but Johnson would not believe it, though we had the attestation of the gardener, who said, he had put in corks, where the river Manyfold sinks 20 water tree. The smooth floors in the highest rooms* Atlas, fifteen hands inch and half.* River running through the park. The porticoes on the sides support two galleries for the first floor. My friends were not struck with the house. It fell below my ideas of the fur- niture. The staircase is in the corner of the house. The hall in the corner, the grandest room, though only a room of passage. On the ground-floor, only the chapel aftd the breakfast-room, and a small li- into the ground* and had catched them in a net placed before one of the openings where the water burst out, * This was a race-horse, which was very handsome and very gentle, and attracted so much of Dr Johnson's attention, that he said; |C of all the duke*s possessions, I like Atlas best,'* 21 brary; the rest, servants' rooms and of- fices/ A bad inn. 13. At Matlock. 14. At dinner at Oakover; too deaf to hear, or much converse, f Mrs. Gell. The chapel at Oakover. The wood * This is the second time Johnson had visited Chatsworth. He saw it, Nov. 26, 1772; and in a letter to Mrs Thrale, he says, " Chatsworth is a very fine house. I wish you had been with me to see it; for then, as we are apt to want matter of talk, we should have gained something new to talk on. They complimented me with playing the fountain, and opening the cascade. But I am of my friend's opinion, that when one has seen the ocean, cascades are but little things." t Dr. Johnson's hearing was very defective, and a cold made him too deaf to enjoy society. In a letter to Mrs. Thrale, Sept. 14, 1773, he says, " I have a cold, and am miserably deaf;" and on the 2 1 st he says, " I am now too deaf to take the usual pleasure in conversation." 22 of the pews grossly painted. I could not read the epitaph. Would learn the old hands. 15. At Ashbourn. Mrs. Diot and her daughters came in the morning. Mrs. Diot dined with us. We visited Mr. Flint. 16. At Dovedale, with Mr. Langley and Mr. Flint. It is a place that de- serves a visit; but did not answer my expectation. The river is small, the rocks are grand. Reynard's hall is a * « From the Muses, sir Thomas More bore away the first crown, Erasmus the second, and Micyllus has the third." Jacobus Micyllus, whose real name was Mel- eher,died 1558, aged 55, In the MS. Johnson has introduced yg tv by the side of el**** as if he were doubtful whether that tense ought not to have been adopted. 23 cave very high in the rock; it goes back- ward several yards, perhaps eight. To the left is a small opening, through which I crept, and found another cavern, perhaps four yards square; at the back was a breach yet smaller, which I could not easily have entered, and, wanting light, did not inspect. I was in a cave yet higher, called Reynard's Kitchen. There is a rock called the Church, in which I saw no re- semblance that could justify the name, * Dovedale is about two miles long. We walked towards the head of the Dove, which is said to rise about five miles above two caves called the Dog- holes, at the foot of Dovedale. In one place, where the rocks ap- proached, I proposed to build an arch * This rock is supposed rudely to resemble a tower; hence, it has been called the Church. 24 from rock to rock over the stream, with a summer-house upon it. The water murmured pleasantly among the stones. I thought that the heat and exercise mended my hearing. I bore the fatigue of the walk, which was very laborious, without inconvenience. There were with us Gilpin* and Par- ker, f Having heard of this place be- fore, I had formed some imperfect idea, to which it did not answer. Brown says he was disappointed. I certainly expect- ed a large river where I found only a clear quick brook. I believe I had ima- * Mr. Gilpin was an accomplished youth, at this time an undergraduate at Oxford. His fa- ther was a silversmith in London. t John Parker, of Brownsholme, in Lanca- shire, Esq. 25 gincd a valley enclosed by rocks, and terminated by a broad expanse of water. He that has seen Dovedale has no need to visit the Highlands** In the afternoon we visited old Mrs. Dale.f 17. Sunday morning, at church — Afternoon, at Mr. Diot's. 18. Dined at Mr. Gell's.J * Mr, Whately, who visited Dovedale at this time, has given a finished description of it, and he felt the beauties of nature, and described them better, than any author I am acquainted with. See Afifi. 4. t Mrs. Dale was at this time 93 years of age. \ Mr. Gell, of Hopton hall, a short distance from Carsington, in Derbyshire; the father of sir William Gell, well known for his topogra- phy of Troy, and other literary works; born 1775. « July 12, 1775, Mr. Gell is now re- joicing, at fifty-seven, for the birth of an heir- male." Dr. Johnson to Mrs. Thrale. 26 19. We went to Kedleston* to see lord Scarsdale's new house, which is very costly, but ill contrived. The hall is very stately, lighted by three skylights; it has two rows of marble pillars, dug, as I hear from Langley, in a quarry of * In the year 1777, Dr. Johifson and Bos- well visited Kedleston together: and it is inter- esting to compare Boswell's account with this which is written by Johnson himself when he visited it three years before that time. " Friday, September 19, after breakfast, Dr. Johnson and I set out in Dr. Taylor's chaise to go to Derby. The day was fine, and we resolved to go by Kedleston, the seat of lord Scarsdale, that I might see his lordship's fine house. I was struck with the magnificence of the building; and the extensive park, with the finest verdure, covered with deer, and cattle, and sheep, delighted me. The number of old oaks, of an immense size, filled me with a sort of respectful admiration: for one of them sixty pounds was offered. The excellent smooth gra- vel roads; the large piece of water formed by his lordship from some small brooks, with a 27 Northamptonshire; the pillars are very large and massy, and take up too much room; they were better away. Behind the hall is a circular saloon, useless, and therefore ill contrived. The corridors that join the wings to the body are mere passages through seg- ments of circles. The state bedcham- handsome barge upon it; the venerable Gothic church, now the family chapel, just by the house; in short, the grand group of objects agi- tated and distended my mind in a most agreea- ble manner. " One should think (said I) that the proprietor of all this must be happy." "Nay, sir, (said Johnson,) all this excludes but one evil — poverty." " Our names were sent up, and a well-drest elderly housekeeper, a most distinct articulator, showed us the house. Dr. Johnson thought bet- ter of it to-day, than when he saw it before;* for he had lately attacked it violently, saying, " it would do excellently for a town-hall. The large room with the pillars (said he) would do for the * This relates to the time when this Diary was made. 28 ber was very richly furnished. The di- ning parlour was more splendid with gilt plate than any that I have seen. There were many pictures. The gran- deur was all below. The bedchambers were small, low, dark, and fitter for a prison than a house of splendour. The kitchen has an opening into the gallery, judges to sit in at the assizes; the circular room for a jury chamber; and the room above for prisoners." Still he thought the large room ill lighted, and of no use but for dancing in; and the bedchambers but indifferent rooms; and that the immense sum which it cost was injudi- ciously laid out. Dr. Taylor had put him in mind of his afifiearing pleased with the house, " But (said he) that was when lord Scarsdale was present. Politeness obliges us to appear pleased with a man's works when he is present. No man will be so ill bred as to question you. You may therefore pay compliments without saying what is not true. I should say to lord Scarsdale of his large room: i My lord, this is the most costly room that I ever saw>' which is true." 29 by which its heat and its fumes are dis- persed over the house. There seemed in the whole more cost than judgment. We went then to the silk mill at Derby, where I remarked a particular manner of propagating motion from a horizontal to a vertical wheel. We were desired to leave the men only two shillings. Mr. Thrale's bill at the inn for dinner was eighteen shil- lings and tenpence. Dr* Manningham, physician in London, who was visiting at lord Scarsdale's, accompanied us through many of the rooms, and soon after- wards my lord himself, to whom Dr. Johnson was known, appeared, and did the honours of the house. We talked of Mr. Langton. Johnson, with a warm vehemence of regard, exclaimed* " The earth does not bear a worthier man than Bennet Langton. We saw a good many fine pic- tures. We were shown a pretty large library. In his lordship's dressing-room lay Johnson's small dictionary: he showed it to me with some c2 30 At night I went to Mr. Langley's. Mrs. Wood's. Captain Astle, &c. 20. We left Ashboum and went to Buxton, thence to Pool's Hole, which is narrow at first, but then rises into a high arch; but is so obstructed with crags, that it is difficult to walk in it. There are two ways to the end, which is, they say, six hundred and fifty yards from the mouth. They take passengers up the higher way, and bring them back the lower. The higher way was so difficult and dangerous, that, having tried it, I de- sisted. I found no level part. At night we came to Macclesfield, a very large town in Cheshire, little eagerness, saying, " Look'ye! Que regio in terris nostri non plena laboris." He observed, also, Goldsmith's " Animated Nature;" and said, " Here's our friend! The poor doctor would have been happy toliear of this." 31 known. It has a silk mill: it has a hand- some church, which, however, is but a chapel, for the town belongs to some parish of another name, * as Stourbridge lately did to Old Swinford. Macclesfield has a town-hall, and is, I suppose, a corporate town.f We came to Congleton, where there is likewise a silk mill. Then to Mid- dlewich, a mean old town, without any manufacture, but, I think, a corpora- tion. Thence we proceeded to Nampt- wich, an old town; from the inn, I saw scarcely any but black timber houses. I tasted the brine water, which contains more salt than the sea water .J By slow * The parish of Prestbury. t The corporation consists of twenty-four aldermen, and has such rights and privileges as commonly appertain to corporate towns. X Sea water, in its natural state, is but a weak brine; but its saltness varies in different seas, 32 evaporation, they make large crystals of salt; by quick boiling, small granula- tions. It seemed to have no other pre- paration. At evening we came to Comber- mere,* so called from a wide lake. and at different depths. In the Baltic, the pro- portion of common salt, and other saline ingre- dients, to the water in which they are held in so- lution, is as one to forty; in the British Channel, as one to thirty; and at a great depth near the Equator, as one to twenty-three: but the average may be estimated as one to twenty-eight. The brine in our salt works undergoes a process which is called graduation, by which its strength Is greatly increased before it is submitted to eva- poration. The colour of salt ought to be of a delicate blue-whiteness; any approach to yellow shows that the brine has been contaminated by the presence of iron. * At this time the seat of sir Lynch Salus- bury Cotton, now, of lord Combermere, his grandson, from which place he takes his title. It is situated in Cheshire, twenty-two miles from Shrewsbury. 33 22. We went up the Mere. I pull- ed a bulrush of about ten feet.* I saw no convenient boats upon the Mere. 23. We visited lord Kilmorey's house. It is large and convenient, with many rooms, none of which are magni- ficently spacious.f The furniture was not splendid. The bed- curtains were guarded. Lord Kilmorey showed the place with too much exultation. He has no park, and little water. 24. We went to a chapel,J built by * Great Cats'-tail, or Reed-mace. The Ty- +iha latifolia of Linnaeus. — See Classes and Or* ders of Linn which commonly ran with a clear shallow stream? over a hard pebbly bottom. These channels,, which seem so much wider than the water that they convey would naturally require, are formed by the violence of wintry floods, produced by the accumulation of innumerable streams that fall in rainy weather from the hills, and bursting away with resistless impetuosity, make them- selves a passage proportionate to their mass." 51 before Camden. He is kneeling at his prayers.* 2. We rode to a summer-house of Mr. Cotton, which has a very extensive prospect: it is meanly built, and unskil- fully disposed.f We went to Dymerchion church, J where the old clerk acknowledged his mistress. It is the parish church of Bach y Graig. § A mean fabric: Mr. Salusbu- ry|| was buried in it. Bach y Graig has fourteen seats in it. * Humphry Llwyd was a native of Denbigh, and practised there as a physician, and also re- presented the town in parliament. He died 1568, aged 41. t This summer-house is in the grounds be- longing to Lleweney, and their ride to it was to see the prospect; the situation commands a very beautiful view. \ Dymerchion is three miles from St. Asaph. § Bach y Graig is the name of one of three townships of the parish of Dymerchion. || Mr. Thrale's father. 52 As we rode by, I looked at the house again. We saw Llannerch, a house not mean, with a small park very well watered. There was an avenue cf oaks, which, in a foolish compliance with the present mode, has been cut down, A few are yet standing. The owner's name is Davies.* The way led through pleasant lanes, and overlooked a region beautifully di- versified with trees and grass. At Dymerchion church there is English service only once a month. This is about twenty miles from the English border. The old clerk had great appear- ance of joy at the sight of his mistress, and foolishly said, that he w r as now will- * Robert Davics, Esq. At his house there was an extensive library. 53 ing to die. He had only a crown given him by my mistress.* At Dymerchion church the texts on the walls are in Welsh. 3. We went in the coach to Holy- well. Talk with mistressf about flatteryj* * In the MS. in Dr. Johnson's hand writing, lie has first entered in his diary, " The old clerk had great appearance of joy at seeing his mistress, and foolishly said that he was now wil- ling to die:" he afterwards wrote in a separate column, on the same leaf, under the head of notes and omissions, " He had a crown;" and then he appears to have read over his diary at a future time, and interlined the paragraph with the word — " on" " lygiven him by my mistress," which is written in ink of a different colour. This shows that he read his diary over after he wrote it, and that where his feelings were not accurately expressed, he amended them. t Mrs. Thralc. \ Johnson had no dislike to those commen- dations which are commonly imputed to flattery. e 2 54 Holywell is a market town, neither very small nor mean. The spring call- ed Winifred's Well is very clear, and so copious, that it yields one hundred tons of water in a minute. It is all at once a very great stream, which, within per- haps thirty yards of its eruption, turns a mill, and in a course of two miles, Upon one occasion he said to Mrs. Thrale, " What signifies protesting so against flattery! when a person speaks well of one, it must be ei- ther true or false, you know; if true, let us rejoice in his good opinion; if he lies, it is a proof at least that he loves more to please me, than to sit silent when he need say nothing. Though I like flattery, a little too much al- ways disgusts me: that fellow, Richardson, on the contrary, could not be content to glide o^ietly down the stream of reputation, with out longing to taste the froth from every stroke of the oar." " The difference between praise and flatte- ry is the same as between that hospitality that sets wine enough before the guest, and that which forces him to drink/' 55 eighteen mills more. In descent, it is very quick. It then falls into the sea. The well is covered by a lofty circular arch, supported by pillars; and over this arch is an old chapel, now a school. The chancel is separated by a wall. The bath is completely and indecently open. A woman bathed while we all looked on. In the church, which makes a good appearance, and is surrounded by gal- leries to receive a numerous congrega- tion, we were present while ^ child was christened in Welch. We went down by the stream to see a prospect, in which I had no part. We then saw a brass work, where the lapis calaminaris is gathered, broken, washed from the earth and the lead, though how the lead was separated I did not see; then calcined, afterwards 56 ground fine, and then mixed by fire with the copper. We saw several strong fires with melting pots, but the construction of the fire-places I did not learn. At a copper- work which receives its pigs of copper, I think, from Warring- ton, we saw a plate of copper put hot between steel rollers, and spread thin: I know not whether the upper roller was set to a certain distance, as I suppose* or acted only by its weight. At an iron- work I saw round bars formed by a knotched hammer and an- vil. There I saw a bar of about half an inch, or more, square cut with shears worked by w T ater, and then beaten hot into a thinner bar. The hammers all worked, as they were, by water, acting upon small bodies, moved very quick, as quick as by the hand. 57 I then saw wire drawn, and gave a shilling. I have enlarged my notions, though not being able to see the move- ments; and having not time to peep closely, I knew less than I might. I was less weary, and had better breath, as I walked farther. 4. Ruthin castle is still a very noble ruin; all the walls still remain, so that a complete platform, and elevations, not very imperfect, may be taken. It en- closes a square of about thirty yards. The middle space was always open. The wall is, I believe, about thirty feet Jhigh, very thick, flanked with six round towers, each about eighteen feet r or less in diameter. Only one tower had a chimney, so that there was com- modity of living. It was only a place of strength. The garrison had, perhaps, tents in the area. 58 Stapylton's house is pretty:* there are pleasing shades about it, with a con- stant spring that supplies a cold bath* We then went to see a cascade, I trudged unwillingly, and was not sorry to find it dry. The ivater was, however, turned on, and produced a ve- ry striking cataract. They are paid aa hundred pounds a year for permission to divert the stream to the mines. The river, for such it may be termed, rises from a single spring, which, like that of Winifred's, is covered with a building. We called then at another house belonging to Me. Lloyd, which made a * The name of this house is Bodryddan; for- merly the residence of the Stapyltons, the pa- rents of five co-heiresses, of whom Mrs. Cotton,, afterwards lady Salusbury Cotton, was one; but in the year 1774, it was the residence of Mr. Shipley, dean of St. Asaph, who still lives there:. 59 handsome appearance. This country seems full of very splendid houses. Mrs. Thrale lost her purse. She ex- pressed so mu^h uneasiness, that I con- cluded the sum to be very great; but when I heard of only seven guineas, I was glad to find that she had so much sensibility of money. I could not drink this day either cofr fee or tea after dinner. I know not when I missed before* 5. Last night my sleep was remark - bly quiet. I know not whether by fa- tigue in walking, or by forbearance of tea* I gave the ipecacuanha. Vin. emet. had failed; so had tartar emet. I dined at Mr. Mvddleton's, of Gwaynynog. The house was a gentle- man's house, below the second rate, per- 60 haps below the third, built of stone roughly cut. The rooms were low, and the passage above stairs gloomy, but the furniture was good. The table was well supplied, except that the fruit was bad. It was truly the dinner of a country gen- tleman.* Two tables were filled with company, not inelegant. After dinner, the talk was of pre- serving the Welsh language. I offered them a scheme. Poor Evan Evans was mentioned, as incorrigibly addicted to * Johnson affected to be a man of very nice discernment in the art of cookery. Boswell ob- serves, upon one occasion he alarmed a lady, at vr hose house he was to sup, by this declaration of his skill: " I, madam, who live at a variety of good tables, am a much better judge of cook- ery, than any person who has a very tolerable cook, but lives much at home; for his palate is gradually adapted to the taste of his cook; 61 strong drink. Washington was com- mended. Myddleton is the only man, who, in Wales, has talked to me of lite- rature. I wish he were truly zealous. I recommended the republication of David ap Rhees's Welsh Grammar. Two sheets of Hebrides came to me for correction to-dav, F. G.* 6. 2*9\ i$. I corrected the two sheets. My sleep last night was disturbed. Washing at Chester and here, 5s. Id. whereas, madam, in trying by a wider range, I can more exquisitely judge." When invited to dine, even with an intimate friend, he was not pleased if something better than a plain dinner was not prepared for him. — Aftfi, 6. * F. G. are the printer's signatures, by which it appears that at this time five sheets had already been printed. The MS. was sent to press June 1 lth.— Boswell's Life of Dr. Johnson, vol. ii. fi. 288. 62 I did not read. I saw to-day more of the out-houses at Llevveney. It is, in the whole, a very spacious house. 7. I was at church at Bodfari. There was a service used for a sick wo- man, not canonically, but such as I have heard, I think formerly at Lichfield, ta- ken out of the visitation. KccB: fA&rym. The church is mean, but has a square tower for the bells, rather too state- ly for a church. OBSERVATIONS. Dixit injustus, Ps. 36, has no rela- tion to the English, Preserve us, Lord, has the name of Robert Wisedome, 1618. — Barker** Bible. 63 Battologiam ab iteratione, recte dis- tinguit Erasmus. — Mod. Orandi Deum, p. 56 — 144. Southwell's Thoughts of his own Death. Baudius on Erasmus.* 8. The bishop and much company dined at Llewcney.f Talk of Greek — * This work, which Johnson was now read- ing, was, most probably, a little book, entitled Baudi Efdstol<£) as, in his life of Milton, he has made a quotation from it. Speaking of Milton's religious opinions, when he is supposed to have vacillated between Calvinism and Arminianism, he observes, " What Baudius says of Erasmus seems applicable to him, magis habuit quod fu- gcrtt qua?n quod sequcreter." t During Johnson's stay at this place, Mrs, Thrale gives this trait of his character. When we went into Wales together, and spent some time at Mr. Cotton's at Lleweney, one day at din- ner, I meant to please Mr. Johnson particular- ly, with a dish of very young peas. < Are not they charming?' said I to him, while he was 64 and the army. The duke of Marlbo- rough's officers useless. Read Phocyli- dis,* distinguished the paragraphs. I looked in Leland: an unpleasant book of mere hints, f Lichfield school, ten pounds; and five pounds from the hospital. 10. At Lloyd's, of Maesmynnan; a good house, and a very large walled garden. I read Windus's Account of his Journey to Mequinez, and of Stew- art's Embassy.! I had read in the morn- eating them. * Perhaps they would be so— to a pig.' This is given only as an instance of the peculiarity of his manner, and which had in it no intention to offend. * The title of the poem is nctvfta nvS-eltyJv. t Leland's Itinerary, published by Thomas Hearne, in nine very thin octavo volumes, 1710. | This book is entitled, " A Journey to Me- quinez, the residence of the present emperor of Fez and Morocco, on the occasion of commo- 65 ing Wasse's Greek Trochaics to Bent- ley. They appear inelegant, and made with difficulty. The Latin elegy con- tains only common-place, hastily expres- sed, so far as I have read, for it is long. They seem to be the verses of a scholar, who has no practice of writing. The Greek I did not always fully understand. I am in doubt about sixth and last para- graphs, perhaps they are not printed right, for ivroMv perhaps iv