TiiU T O U R 1 8 J 18 38, ©t HIBRARY OF CONGRESS, If [FORCE COLLECTION.] C ' # ! UNITED STATES UE AJIEKICA. f THE ^ O U R I S T, OR POCKET MANUAL FOR TRAVELLERS THE HUDSON RIVER, THE WESTERN AND NORTHERN CANALS AND RAILROADS ; THE STAGE ROUTES TO NIAGARA FALLS; AND DOWN LAKE ONTARIO AND THE ST. LAWRENCE TO MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. COMPRISING ALSO THE ROUTES TO LEBANON, BALLSTON, AND SARATOGA SPRINGS, WITH MANY NEW AND INTERESTING DETAILS. .r'.r of C Oft 5.^ 1^37 •■ ^ NEW-YORK: ^^ *lWashi£«^^ HARPER & BROTHERS, 82 CLIFF- STREET. 0/ 18 3 8. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1838, by Harper & Brothers, in the Clerk's Office of the Southern District of New- York. h"^' PREFACE. The sale of this little book in former seasons was so flattering to the publishers, that they are induced to undertake a sixth edition, adapted to the present season. So great and continual are the changes going on in the modes of travelling, in the routes themselves, and in the places to which tourists resort, that it is absolutely neces- sary to have numerous alterations made from year to year in those works which are intended as guides and companions for the traveller. To be brief, and yet sufficiently explicit ; to furnish statistical information without being te- dious ; and, in short, to give much in little on every subject that presents itself to the intelligent tourist, is the design of the present work. Tables of distances, routes, population, steam- boat lines, principal hotels, will be found in their appropriate places, June, 1838. ROUTE FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. There are several routes from Philadelphia to New- York. The railroad from Philadelphia to Trenton is preferred by some ; the night line by the Camden and Amboy railroad ; and by the steamboat up the Delaware to Bordentown, and thence by the railroad to Amboy, thence by water to New- York. As the hotels all contain printed cards giving minute directions, it is unnecessary to repeat them here. The pas- ■sage up the Delaware is the most agreeable of these routes. After starting, the shiphouse in the Navy-yard will be seen opposite. A number of shipyards and three or four glass- liouses will be noticed ; also a shot-tower, and a number of tall spires, which appear conspicuous among the great mass of buildings. The boat moves on in the " even tenour of her way," and the traveller soon finds himself at Burlington, 18 miles from Philadelphia, a city and port of entry, which, like most of the places along the Delaware, fills a very interesting page in the history of the Revolution. It is a very handsome town, beautifully located on an inclined plane, and many of the buildings display much taste. Popu- lation in 1830, 2670. Bristol, nearly opposite, presents to view a number of handsome buildings, with extensive and beautiful gardens at- tached. Population in 1830, 1262. After proceeding 10 miles farther, the boat arrives at Bordentown, a handsome village, situated on an elevated bank. Here the passengers take cars on the Camden and Amboy Railroad, and, after proceeding a short distance, the seat and residence of the Ex-king of Spain, Joseph Bonaparte, who now styles himself Count Survilliers, and is residing in England, is seen on the left. A fire which took place some years since at this place destroyed the finest of his buildings. The railroad passes through Sandhills, 4 miles distant from Bordentown, to Centreville 5 miles, to Rocky Brook 4 miles, 8 PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. to West's 8 miles, to Spotswood 4 miles, to South Amboy 9 miles. (See Railroads.) South Amboy is the terminating point of the railroad, which is 35 miles in length. Here the steamboat lies at the wharf in readiness to proceed down the Raritan River ; and as soon as the passengers can be transferred from the cars, she gets under way and proceeds to Perth Ambov, which is directly opposite across the river, and stands on a point at the junction of Raritan River and Ar- thur Kills. There is little here to attract notice. Some ship- ping generally lies at the wharves, but the place does not wear a very business-like aspect. Eliz.^bethtown Point, within 15 miles of New- York, is the next stopping-place. The village of Elizabe.thtown is two miles inland. It was settled by people from Connecticut. Population 3445. At the mouth of the Kills is seen the beautiful village of New- Brighton, which, though it has for the present proved unequal to the expectations of its projectors, must, on the re- vival of business, become a great place of resort, and amply repay the cost of expenditure. The boat now enters the broad, beautiful bay of New- York, and Fort Lafayette is seen between Long and Statcn Islands, in the passage to the sea called " The Narrows." On the right is seen Castle Williams and Governor's Island, on the left are Ellis's and Bedlow's Islands, which are both fortified, and in front an immense, almost innumerable quantity of shipping lying at the wharves, with an extended background of lofty buildings, among which the towering spires of the nu- merous churches scattered about the city appear very conspic- uously. New-York is the largest and most populous city in the United States, and has an unrivalled location as a commercial city, at the junction of the East and Hudson rivers, on an isl- and of 15 miles in length by 1^ in width. It is now built nearly in a triangular shape, and extends about 3 miles on each river. The principal portion of shipping-business is transacted on the eastern side of the city, as that part of the harbour is best protected from prevailing storms. The East River, opposite the city, is about half a mile wide, and the North River something more than a mile. The principal streets run north and south, and are crossed at right angles ^ NEW-YORK. 9 by streets butting on each river. Broadway, a hjandsomely- built avenue, about 3 miles in length and 80 feet in v*ridth, is the fashionable promenade of the city, and is generally crowded in pleasant weather with every description of persons, and na- tives of almost every clime. The principal places of amusement are the Park, Bowery, National, Franklin, and Olympic Theatres ; Peale's and the American Museums, and several gardens, of which Nibloi's and the Castle are decidedly the most pleasant. The city contains 120 churches, many of which are beautiful buildings, and constructed in a chaste style of architecture. The literary and scientific institutions in the city are Columbia College, es- tablished in 1754, Medical College, Lyceum of Natural His- tory, Historical Society, Atheneum, Society Library, Acade- my of Fine Arts, National Academy of Design, Law Institute, Mercantile Library Association, &c. About 300,000 tons of shipping, comprising many of the most elegant and fast-sailing ships in the world, are owned here ; about seventy newspa- pers are published, and there are several extensive book-print- ing establishments in the city. The population of the city by the census of 1830 was 202,689, and by that of 1835 was found to be 270,089, and is now estimated at 275,000 souls. The first fortified settlement was made here in 1615 by the Dutch, five years after the settlement of Albany. Among the most elegant buildings are the City Hall, the new University, the Hall of Justice, built in the Egyptian style, on Franklin, Leonard, and Elm streets. It would require a volume to enumerate all the peculiarities of New- York. The best work to consult is the Picture of New- York, published by Goodrich, 1828. (For Hotels, see List Page.) ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. [References. — * Places at which the regular steamboats running be- tween New- York and Albany land.— E. S. East side of the river.— W. S. West side of the river.— Distances on the river will be ascertained by referring to the Map of the Hudson which is connected with this work.— Distances on the canal will be seen by referring to the table at page 36.] PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. The Hudson River was first discovered September 4, 1609, by Henry Hudson, from whom it derives its name. It rises 250 miles north of New- York, in a mountainous country on the confines of Canada, between Lakes Ontario and Cham- plain, and may justly be regarded as the Rhine of America. It is a noble river, abounding with scenery of the most sub- lime, picturesque, and romantic character ; not surpassed, for variety and grandeur, by any in the world. At the time appointed, the boat moves from the wharf " like a thing of life," and the stranger finds himself in the midst of a varied and splendid scene. On the right he has New-York, with its Battery and Castle Garden ; on the left, Jersey City and Hoboken ; and on the south a view of the Nar- rows leading to Sandy Hook, and a far view of the Atlantic Ocean, 22 miles from the city. Directly opposite the Battery is seen Governor's Island, on which is situated Castle Wil- liams. The Quarantine ground at Staten Island is also seen in a southerly direction, and its white buildings form a stri- king object in looking down the bay. As the boat proceeds, on the right are seen the old State Prison (which is no longer occupied, as the prisoners have been removed to the new prison at Singsing), Fort Gansevoort, and the Episcopal The- ological Seminary, built of gray hewn stone. On the left the shady walks of Hoboken, the cottage in the " Elysian Fields," and Colonel Stevens's mansion on the promontory called " Ho- boken Point" arrest the attention. A short distance above, the hills of Weehawken are seen ; and beyond is seen High- PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 11 wood, the beautiful residence of James G. King, Esq. Wee- hawken, the romantic beauties of which have inspired the sprightly muse of Halleck, is the celebrated duelling-ground, and the spot where the fatal duel between Colonel Aaron Burr and General Hamilton was fought, 1804. It is 3 miles from the city, and its retired walks and convenient solitude have created its notoriety as the place where " affairs of hon- our" are generally settled. A neat marble monument was here erected to the memory of Hamilton ; but it has been re- moved within a few years, his remains having been interred in Trinity churchyard, beneath a fine monument, enclosed in an iron railing. The Pahsadoes commence at Weehawken, and extend about 20 miles up the western side of the river. These are a range of basalt (the altitudes of which are from 20 to 550 feet), which form almost one impassable barrier, presenting nearly a perpendicular surface. The Lunatic Asylum (E. S.), 7 miles from the city, is built of hewn freestone. The situation is beautiful and com- manding. Harlaem (E. S.). a small village containing a church, three stores, a blacksmith's shop, &c. The ridge of highland which extends across the island is called Harlaem Heights, on which, during the revolution, a line of fortifications was thrown up quite across to the East River. To this place the new railroad is completed from New- York. (See Railroads.) Fort Lee (W. S.), on the brow of the Pahsadoes, 300 feet above the level of the water ; this fort was evacuated in 1776. Fort Washington (E. S.). The ruins of this fortress are on the summit of a high hill, 12 miles from the city. This fort was surrendered by the Americans to the Hessians in 1776, together with 2600 men. Spuyten Duyvel Creek (E. S.), 13 miles from the city. This creek derived its name from the following circumstance. When New-Amsterdam (now New- York) was in possession of the Dutch, Peter Stuyvesant, then governor, sent Antony Van Corlaer, his right-hand man and sounder of brass, alias trumpeter, on an important message up the river. On his ar- rival at this creek, having no means of passing it, he paused in much perplexity : but his zeal to accomplish the mission was not to be overcome by the want of a boat, so he very he- roically threw off his coat and made a vow ne wouid cross it 12 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. " spuyten duyvel." •' It was a dark and stormy night when the good Antony arrived at the famous creek (sagely denomi- nated Harlaem River) which separates the island of Manahatta from the mainland. The wind was high, the elements were in an uproar, and no Charon could be found to ferry the ad- venturous sounder of brass across the water. For a short time he vapoured like an impatient ghost upon the brink, and then, bethinking himself of the urgency of his errand, took a hearty embrace of his stone bottle, swore most valorously that he would swim across en spijt en Duyvel (in spite of the Devil) ! and daringly plunged into the stream. Luckless Antony ! Scarce had he buffeted half way over when he was observed to struggle violently, as if battling with the spirit of the waters ; instinctively he put his trumpet to his mouth, and giving a vehement blast — sank for ever to the bottom !" — Knickerbocker, p. 232. Philipsburgh (E. S.), 17 miles from the city, contains a church, several houses, and villas. Fori hidependence (E. S.). Directly opposite this fort the Palisadoes are of a greater height than at any other point. DoBBs's Ferry (E. S.), 22^ miles from the city. Tappan (W. S.), 28 miles from New- York. The place where the New- York and Erie Railroad terminates. Andre was executed about a mile from this village. The spot where he was buried is still pointed out and frequently visited, al- though his remains were disinterred a few years since and taken to England. Tarrytown (E. S.), 30 miles from New- York. Major An- dre was captured at this place when returning from his visit to General Arnold, and on his way to the British lines, Septem- ber 23, 1780. The tree under which he was taken was struck by lightning on the very day the news of General Arnold's death was received at Tarrytown, July 31, 1801. Strange coincidence ! It was a whitewood tree, and uncommonly large, being 26 'feet in circumference and 111 high. Steam- boats touch daily. Nyack, a small village a little north of Tappan. SiNGsiNG (E. S.), 33 miles from the city. The new State Prison is located on the bank of the river at this place. It was commenced in 1825, and has been tenanted nearly 9 years. Its dimensions arc 44 by 480 feet ; it has a double row of cells, built back to back, four tiers high, and 200 in each tier ; PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 13 making in all 800 cells. It is built of hewn marble, quarried on the premises. The whole work was performed by the con- victs. They are now building, and have nearly finished, two extensive wings, which extend from the main building to the wharf. The discipline is that of the Auburn prison, probably the best now in use. Haverstraw (W. S.), 36 miles from New- York. The town includes Stony Point, with the old Forts Clinton and Montgomery, so celebrated in our revolutionary history. It has several landings and some considerable traffic. Sleepy Hollow (E. S.), a little above Singsing. This is the place where Washington Irvhig locates the scene of his tale of the same name in the " Sketch Book." Grassy Point (W. S.), 1 mile south of Stony Point. There is a fine mansion here belonging to Mr. Piatt, of New- York. Stony Point (W. S.), 40 miles from New- York, is a bold, rough promontory, with a lighthouse on its summit. It was fortified during the American war, and taken from General Wayne by the British in 1778; but retaken 15th July, 1779. This gallant action revived the confidence of the American people. (See Gordon's History.) Verplanck's Point (E. S.), opposite, was also the site of a fort. Opposite this point lay the frigate to receive General Arnold after his treachery at West Point. It is now the site of a new town, and the enterprising proprietors have made al- ready great improvements. ♦Caldwell's (W. S.), 44 miles from New- York. This is the first landing of the New- York and Albany steamboats. Here the Highlands commence. Peekskill Village is directly opposite Caldwell's. Anthony'' s Nose (E. S.). The mountain of this name is not, as is generally supposed, the one that exhibits a resemblance of the profile of a human face. It is directly opposite Fort Montgomery Creek. Its elevation is 1228 feet from the- level of the river, and its name is derived, according to Irving, from the nose of Anthony Van Corlaer. From here to Fort Mont- gomery, a ruin on the opposite side, a large boom and chain were extended during the revolutionary war, at the expense of 70,000 pounds sterling. It was partly destroyed by Sir Hen- ry Clinton in 1777. Some of the links of this chain may be seen in the museum of the Albany Institute. Other portions, it is said, were carried to Gibraltar, and are there in use at the B 14 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. moles. In the British accounts of that time, it is said a sec- ond boom was destroyed at Fort Constitution. After proceeding two miles farther, an extensive range of mills are seen on the west side of the river, supplied with water from Buttermilk Falls, a beautiful little cascade which comes foaming and tumbling down the rocks. Mr. Arden, whose house is seen opposite the falls, has an immense tract at this place, on which is situate the Beverly House,* a quar- * During the revolution this was the property of Charles Beverly Robinson (a colonel in the British army, though an American by birth), but in possession of the Americans, and the quarters of General Bene^ diet Arnold, who infamously attempted to betray his country to her enemies in the year 1780. His plot was discovered in time to avert the fatal blow, but not to secure the traitor. Colonel Robinson and Major Andre were sent by Sir Henry Clinton, the British commander, on board the sloop of war Vulture, at New-York, with orders to proceed up the Tiver and have an interview with Arnold. They anchored opposite Fort Montgomery. Andre went to Beverly House, saw the traitor, and received the draughts of all the works at West Point and the passes leading to them. Previous to this time, Arnold had never intrusted a paper out of his hands which might expose him to detection ; but now saw no danger in confiding these to Andre, who was to re-embark directly on board the sloop and make sail for New- York. Andre returned alone to the beach, whence a boat was to convey him to the Vulture ; but this arrangement was defeated by an obstacle wholly unexpected ; the sloop having weighed anchor and moved down to Teller's Point, which divides Tappan and Haverstraw Bays. This movement having excited the sus- picions of the rowers of the boat in which Andre was to return, caused them peremptorily to refuse taking him on board. Finding all entreaties vain, he returned to Arnold, and consulted him on the propriety of urging the men to proceed. Arnold advised him to assume a disguise and return by land ; and wished to withdraw the papers intrusted to him, thinking it hazardous to send them by land. To this, however, Andre refused to accede, as he was desirous of showing Clinton with what punctuality he had executed his mission. He disguised himself in a dress provided by a man named Joshua Smith, and, after secreting the letters in his boots, proceeded on his journey, accompanied by Smith ; each had a passport from Arnold " to go to the lines of White Plains, or lower, if the bearer thinks proper; he being on public business." When they arrived in sight of the ground occupied by the English, Smith, seeing no one, said, " You are safe ; good-by," and returned at full speed. Andre proceeded, and was about entering the village of Tarrytown, when he was accosted by three men, arrested, searched, and the fatal papers found on him. Arnold soon heard of his arrest, im- mediately ordered his wife to burn his papers, flew to his barge (which was always ready manned and lay at the small dock opposite Buttermilk Falls), and ordered the men to row him down to the Vulture. He arrived on board safe, and gave the men privilege to remain or return with the barge. They chose the latter. He was elevated to the rank of PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 15 ter of a mile south of his dwelling, not in sight from the river. Three miles above, the location of the celebrated United States Military School comes in view. ^West Point (W. S.)- West Point is celebrated as the theatre of several important events during the revolutionary- struggle, the remembrance of which will cause every feeling heart to glow with patriotism. The Military Academy, under the superintendence of Colonel Thayer, has reached a celeb- rity alike creditable to him and honourable to our country. It was established in 1801, under the eye of General WiUiams, and the number of students is limited to 250. During the last winter a number of the public buildings were destroyed by fire. The cadets parade every evening at six o'clock, which exhibition, together with the " eloquent music" discoursed by the band, is calculated to excite the admiration of every vis- iter. On approaching the point, the first building noticed is the Hospital, which is a fine stone edifice, with a piazza in front, and an extensive wing at each end. The next objects worthy of attention are the ruins of the venerable Fort Put- nam, which occupy a majestic and commanding situation. Near the river is a kind of niche in the cliff, accommodated with a number of benches. This is called Kosciusko^s Gar- den. Clusters of lilachs are still growing, which are said to have been planted by the Polish patriot. There is also a spring of very fine water, over which the cadets have placed a marble reservoir, in which the water boils up with fine ef- fect. It was formerly difficult of access, but is now accessi- ble by means of a flight of stone steps. A short distance from this place Kosciusko's monument is seen : it is built of fine hewn marble ; the inscription on it is — " Kosciusko. Erected by the corps of Cadets, 1828." After turning the point the Hotel comes in view : it is a fine, spacious house, recently kept by W. B. Cozzens, a gentleman long and ad- vantageously knovni to the visiters of West Point. During brigadier-general in the British army, which he held until June 14, 1801, when he died, at Gloucester Place, London, " Unwept, unhonour'd, and unsung." Andre was tried as a spy, convicted, and suffered an ignominious death, which must have been preferable to the life of Arnold, rendered miserable by the contempt of those for whom he had sacrificed his friends, his hoaie, his country, and his honour. 16 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. the war, a chevaux-de-frize was extended across from the wharf to Magazine Point, on Constitution Island, to prevent vessels from passing farther up the river. About a quarter of a mile above is a monument to the memory of a cadet who was killed by the bursting of a can- non. The names of several cadets are inscribed upon it. A short distance farther, at the water's edge, is a small cove, where is seen a small white house. This house is on the site of the building in which General Washington held his head- quarters during a part of the revolution. After proceeding about a mile beyond the landing, by taking a retrospect, the traveller has a magnificent view of the Military Academy, and all the buildings appertaining thereto. There are nine brick buildings for the officers and professors. The view of the Point from this distance is highly imposing. The num- ber of cadets allowed by Congress is 250, and 60 are an- nually admitted. The system of education is very thorough, and requires mental and physical strength for its attainment. The library is one of the finest in the country. Among the cannon kept here are two beautiful French pieces, presented by Louis XVI., and inscribed " Ultima ratio Regum." The parade ground is 188 feet above the river. Nothing can be more romantic than the scenery of West Point, nothing richer than its associations. It is not surprising that it has been the delightful theme of tourists and poets, and among the latter Mr. Charles F. Hoffman has not been the least enthusiastic of its admirers. Mr. Samuel Gouvemeur has a beautiful resi- dence opposite West Point. The Highland School is lo- cated half a mile north. It was commenced in 1830, and is now becoming very popular. The Crow's Nesi (W. S.) is the first mountain north of West Point, and has an indenture on its summit resembling a nest : hence its name. Elevation 1418 feet. Dr. Drake has celebrated the Crow's Nest in his poem of " The Culprit Fay." Cold Spring (E. S.), a small village about two miles north of West Point, on the opposite side, derives its name from a spring in the vicinity, which supplied the troops with water during the war. The West Point Foundry, under the super- intendence of Governeur Kemble, Esq., is situated at this place. This establishment, for the manufacture of cannon and machinery, comprehends two blast-furnaces, three air-furnaces, PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 17 three cupola-furnaces, a boring-mill of nine gun-beds, and one for mortars and cylinders, with lathes, &c. ; three water- wheels, one of iron, 36 feet in diameter, with extensive shops, and a steam-engine in Beach-street, New- York, for the manu- facture of steam-engines and other machinery. The whole establishment employs daily from 450 to 500 workmen. Butter Hill is the last of the range on the west side. Its elevation is 1529 feet, greater than any of the Highlands except the "High Peak," which is 1689 feet. At the foot of it can be seen Putnam's Rock, which was rolled from the top in 1778 by a party of soldiers directed by General Put- nam. An individual, rather visionary than otherwise, of the name of Newbold, has been endeavouring for a number of years to establish three cities on the top of this mountain. Their names are Faith, Hope, and Charity. He intends con- structing a railway from the river up the mountain, with an engine stationed at the summit, by which merchandise, &c., will be drawn up for the use of the inhabitants. Break-neck Hill is the last of the range of Highlands on the east side ; it is a very rough, craggy mountain, 1 187 feet high. When directly opposite, the profile of a human face, called " Turk's Face," can be seen on the point of rock which pro- jects farthest southward. PolopeWs Island. This is the name of the small round island in the middle of the river at this place. This island is the residence of nothing save snakes, which are found in im- mense numbers. Cornwall ( W. S.). A small village 4 miles south of New- burgh. This place sends much wood and stone to New- York. New-Winbsor (W. S.) is two miles south of Newburgh. There are two docks at this place : a few yards back from the south dock is seen a low house with three dormant windows ; in 1774 this was the domicil of Mr. Ellison ; General Wash- incrton resided with his family most part of that winter and held his quarters there ; a short distance back of this, on the eminence, is a beautiful mansion belonging to Mr. BuUus ; from this place there is a delightful prospect for 20 miles around. *Newburgh (W. S.). Newburgh was first settled by some emigrants from Palatine in the year 1708, and is now a place of some considerable magnitude, containing a population of B 2 18 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSOW. about 4000. Being situated on the declivity of a hill^ it prob- ably makes a better appearance from the river than from any other point. A stage runs from this place to Ithaca daily. A quarter of a mile south of the village stands the old stone house in which Washington held his quarters at the time when the celebrated "Newburgh Letters" made their appearance. Extensive manufactories and a whaling company exist at this place. It was once talked of as the seat of the National Government. Nearly opposite are the two loftiest mountains in the Highlands: Beacon Hill, 1471 feet high, and the Grand Sachem, 1685. The ascent to the former is so easy that car- riages have ascended to the very top, whence the view is sub- lime, Presqu' Isle, nearly opposite Newburgh, is the residence of Mr. — Denning. This situation affords a most delightful prospect of country, and its gardens, shrubbery, and forest- trees are very charming. FisHKiLL (E. S.) is directly opposite Newburgh. The Matteawan Cotton Factory is situated near this place. It be- longs to the Messrs. Schenck, of New- York, The village is 5 miles east from the river. The factories of this town are quite celebrated. Low Point (E. S.). There is a small cluster of white buildings on this point. It is 2 miles above Fishkill. Dans Kamer Point (W. S.), 5 J miles above Newburgh, is a rough peninsula. Knickerbocker, speaking of Gov. Stuy- vesant's passage up the river, says, "Even now I have it on the point of my pen to relate how his crew was most horribly frightened, on going on shore above the Highlands, by a gang of merry roystering devils, frisking and curveting on a huge flat rock which projected into the river, and which is called the DuyveWs Dans Kamer to this very day." The splendid mansion with a wing at each end, on the brow of the hill just below this place, is the residence of Mr, Armstrong. Hampton (W. S.), 69 miles from New- York. Hamburgh is directly opposite Hampton. The creek which empties into the river at this point is called Wappin- ger's Creek. One mile and a half above this place, on a pro- jecting point, is seen a fine brick building, with an arbour on the hill. This was the residence of George Clinton, former- ly governor of this state, and celebrated in the armals of New- PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 19 York as a statesman, a soldier, and a good citizen. Gen. James Tallmadge is the present occupant. Jew's Creek (W. S.) is 1^ miles above Hampton. Brick- manufacturing is carried on at this place very extensively. Milton (W. S.), 72 miles from New- York. The village opposite is called Barnegat. The shore between Hampton and Milton is literally covered with hmekilns. The beautiful mansion of Col. H. A. Livingston is situated in delightful grounds on the margin of the river, about 1 mile south of Poughkeepsie. *PouGHKEEPSiE (E. S.) is located about 1 mile from the landing. This place was originally settled by some Dutch families about the year 1735, and derived its name from an Indian word, Apokeepsing, signifying safe harbour. Here, in 1788, the New- York Convention met, and adopted the Feder- al Constitution. It was incorporated as a village in 1801, and now contains a population of more than 5000. It is a beau- tiful and pleasant place, the buildings and grounds of its in- habitants displaying much taste. Its importance as a river- town is very considerable, having an extensive back country to support its commercial prosperity. The shore is rough and bold, and the steamboat landing is not seen until the boat reaches the dock, in consequence of a high rocky projection, called the " Call Rock." There is a very fine view, for sev- eral miles north and south, from the top of this rock. There are two fine hotels in the village, equal to any between the cities of New- York and Albany. It is 74 miles from New- York, and 75 from Albany. Population in 1830, 7222; in 1835, 9281. New Paltz (W. S.). This village is opposite Pough- keepsie, *Hyde Park (E. S.). A large tract of land at this place formerly belonged to Dr. David Hosack, an eminent physician of New- York, who retired from the city to this delightful part of country a few years ago. He died in New- York in Decem- ber, 1835. The mansion is in sight from the river. There is a park for deer, arbours, lawn, and a hothouse, which contains specimens of almost all our domestic plants, together with 9 great variety from other countries. Half a mile above Dr. Hosack's is seen Judge Pendleton's mansion ; and two nailes farther is that of Hamilton Wilkes, Esq. Three miles above, Beaver Creek empties itself into the Hudson. ^0 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. Esopus Island is situated at the mouth of the creek. Lewises Dock (E.S.)- After proceeding a few miles far- ther and turning a point of land, a small dock is seen, and a splendid brick building a few yards in the rear. This is the residence of General Morgan Lewis, formerly governor of the State of New-York. A few yards above Governor Lewis's is the beautiful mansion of James Duane Livingston, Esq. Staatsburgh (E. S.). The beautiful mansion on the hill at this place is the residence of James Thompson, Esq, well known as Ellerslie. This place, celebrated for its hospitality, and the elegant and accomplished manners of the fair hostess, now abroad, is on sale. *Rhinebeck (E. S.). This is a small landing, whence a sloop sails twice a week with produce for New- York. The village is three miles in the interior, situated on the Rhine- beck flats, and containing about 50 houses and 719 inhabi- tants. This place affords a fine distant view of the Catskill Mountains and the Mountain House. * Columbus Point is on the opposite side of the river. The junction of the Rondout Creek with the Hudson River is at this place. The terminating point of the Delaware and Hud- son Canal is about 4 miles inland, where it empties into the Rondout. The canal at the surface is 36 feet in breadth, and 4 feet deep. The locks are 72 feet in length and 9 feet wide. The water rises in them from 8 to 11 feet. Two packet boats were lately, if not now, in operation on the canal, leaving Bolton, one and a quarter miles from Columbus Point, every Monday and Thursday for Honesdale, the head of the canal, whence passengers are taken to the coalmines on the railroad. Stages are in readiness at Honesdale to convey passengers to Utica, Binghampton, Owego, and Ithaca. Kingston is a pretty village, located on a beautiful plain in the Esopus valley, between the Rondout and Esopus Creeks. The soil, though sandy, is fertile, and the houses bear the marks of antiquity. A few days before the surrender of Bur- goyne, on the 15th October, 1777, this village was burned by the British under General Vaughan. The reason for this ruthless attack, which for a time overwhelmed the inhabitants with ruin, has entirely escaped the attention of most readers. It was doubtless an act of revenge, in consequence of the fact that at Kingston, on the 20th of April in the same year, a convention of delegates met and adopted a Constitution for PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 21 the State of New- York. The expedition was under the com- mand of General Vaughan, whose troops sailed in batteaux, escorted by a squadron of Ught frigates under the command of Sir James Wallace, who was well acquainted with the river. After the destruction of the town and the vessels in the river, with the exception of an armed galley which escaped up the creek, the expedition returned to New-York. Had it pushed on to Albany, it would have probably saved Burgoyne, and given an entire different turn to that campaign. The two frigates employed on this occasion were the Rose and Tartar, each carrying 20 guns. An inscription upon the village church recorded the deed of barbarism ; but this venerable monument of antiquity has been compelled to yield to the innovations of improvement, and is now no more. The population of this village is about 2000. Magdalen Island (E. S.), 8 miles above Rhinebeck, is the property of Dr. Mastin. His residence is handsomely located on the south end of the island. He has an arbour *' founded on a rock," from which a splendid view of the river is afforded both north and south. Skultz's Dock (E. S.). A sloop sails from this place to New- York once a week. Lower Red Hook (E. S.). This was formerly a place of considerable business, but within a few years it has all been diverted to the landing 3 miles above. Just south of the landing is a neat, delightfully-situated building, with a small grove in front, which is decorated with an arbour, and a number of rustic seats are placed about under the trees. It is the residence of Captain Brown, late of the United States' army. A few yards north of the dock is the seat of J. R. Livingston, Esq. The mansion is large and splendid. The mansions of J. C. Stevens, J. C. Montgomery, and R. S. Liv- ingston are situated between Lower and Upper Red Hook. Glasgow Village (W. S.), 2 miles above Lower Red Hook landing. A short distance above here is the residence of Rev. Mr. Overbagh. ♦Upper Red Hook (E. S.) The village is about 2 miles from the landing, in the interior. There is a hotel, a numb«jr of stores, storehouses, &c., at the landing. The mansion south of the dock is the residence of Mr. Auchmuty. The first mansion north of the south landing be- longs to John Swift Livingston, Esq. It is one of the raosi 22 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. beautiful locations on the Hudson. After proceeding 2 miles farther, the traveller has a view of the splendid brick mansion of R. L. Livingston, Esq., formerly the residence of Chan- cellor Livingston. A large and well-stocked hothouse is at- tached to the south end of the building. E. P. Livingston, Esq.'s, mansion is a few yards farther north. Ury (W. S.), opposite Upper Red Hook landing, country- seat of Henry Barclay, Esq. A short distance south is the mansion of a distinguished divine, the Rev. Dr. Brodhead, commanding a superb view of the river in front, and the mount- ains in the rear. Saugerties Village, situated about 1 mile west from the confluence of the Esopus and Hudson Rivers, containing 1800 inhabitants. The interjutting hills obstruct the view of the most considerable portion of it from the latter stream. It is only of seven or eight years' growth, and at present contains very extensive manufactories of bar iron, paper, and white lead, besides many other of minor importance ; a population of 3000 souls, and a water-power still unemployed, which prom- ises a corresponding continuance of prosperity for many years to come. This village chiefly owes its origm and importance to the exertions and enterprise of Mr. Barclay. There are falls of about 45 feet perpendicular height on the Esopus River at this village, occasioned by natural and artificial ob- structions, which flood the water back two or three miles, forming a most beautiful sheet or lake. Farther up, at the distance of about three miles, are the great falls of the Esopus, which, together with the variety and beauty of the adjacent scenery, and the celebrated white-lead factory of Colonel Clark, present claims for the gratification of the curious of no inferior order. Sportsmen will find fish and fowl in the great- est abundance in the vicinity. A new landing is about to be erected at the lighthouse, to be connected with the west shore. The roads in the neighbourhood, during the temperate and bland season of the year, are generally good ; and that, in par- ticular, which leads to the Pine Orchard through Kauterskill Clove. The scenery along this clove is truly Alpine, and un- surpassed by any of the same character within the United States. Trout are taken in large quantities a few miles back in the country. There is a good hotel, and carriages and horses for the convenience of sojourners ; and, the climate be- ing healthy, there are few places equally accessible to the cit- PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 23 izens of New- York which offer greater inducements for a tem- porary residence during the summer months. Bristol (W. S.). This is the landing for the passengers destined to Saugerties, although some of the boats always land on the other side. Trumphoor's Landing (W. S.). There are four or five houses at this place ; it is the next above Bristol. Oak Hill (E. S.). The large storehouse and dock at this place belong to Harman Livingston, Esq. His splendid man- sion is situated on the hill just south of the landing. Ramshorn Creek is seen winding through the marsh about a quarter of a mile south of the Catskill dock. *Catskill (W. S.) contains a population of about 2500 souls. This is the landing-place for those who visit the Cat- skill Mountain House. A stage leaves Catskill every morn- ing at 7 o'clock for Owego, whence passfingers take the rail- road, 29 miles, to Ithaca, to meet the steamboat on Cayuga Lake, which runs to Cayuga bridge, where stages are in read- iness to convey passengers immediately to Rochester. Pas- sengers for Ithaca generally land at this place or Newburgh. A railroad to Canajoharie is in progress, and six miles are ac- tually constructed. Catskill Creek empties into the Hudson at the south side of the dock. It is a very considerable stream, and forms a harbour for the sloops that sail from this place. Stages are always at the dock on the arrival of the 7 o'clock boats from New-York, ready to take parties to the Mountain. The distance by the road is 12 miles, although in a direct line it is only eight. The time taken in performing the journey is about four hours in going and a little over two hours in re- turning. The road is very fine and level for 9 miles, when the ascent from the foot of the mountain commences by a winding road, which leads to the west end of the Pine Or- chard ; for the following description of which we are indebted to the late Mr. N. G. Elliot, of Catskill. Pine Orchard. " Few places of fashionable resort present stronger attractions to the tourist than the Pine Orchard. A few years ago this delightful retreat was almost unknown, and rarely visited but by the hardy hunter in pursuit of the deer, the bear, and the wolf, that had hitherto maintained imdis- turbed possession of its cliffs and caverns. At length the tale of the extent and beauty of the prospect, and the grandeur S4 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. of the scenery, drew the attention of individuals of taste ; and the glowing descriptions they gave of its surpassing magnifi- cence effectually roused and fixed the attention of the public. Each successive season the number of visiters has increased, till the temporary buildings at first erected for their accom- modation have given place to a splendid hotel, 140 feet in length and four stories high. This establishment has been erected by the Mountain Association, at an expense of about $22,000. It occupies the eastern verge of a table of rock some six acres in extent, and about 3000 feet above the river. The ride to the foot of the mountain is not particularly inter- esting ; but, as you ascend, every moment develops something magnificent and new. The sides of the mountain, steep and seemingly inaccessible, tower far above you, clothed in the rich deep foliage peculiar to such regions ; while below your path a clear stream runs, one moment bubbling over its rocky bed, and the next leaping down its cascades to the valley. The road is extremely circuitous, and so completely hemmed in by the luxuriant growth of forest trees, that the traveller is for a long time unable to judge of his progress in the ascent by any view of the country he has left. At an abrupt angle of the road, however, he obtains at once a full view of the Mountain House — perched like the eyrie of an eagle among the clouds, or rather like an enchanted castle in a fairy tale — seemingly inaccessible to mortal foot ; still it reminds him of such terrestrial comforts as are sure to be acceptable after exercise in the pure air of the mountains. Another turn, and it again disappears, and the excited traveller next finds him- self on the level rock of the Pine Orchard, and approaching the hotel from the rear. A moment more, and he is on the edge of the precipice in front of the noble building. At first glance he would be led to believe, with Leather Stocking, that creation was all before him, and he is forced to admit that his wildest anticipations are more than realized. The view from Table Rock has been compared, by those who have seen both, to that from the summit of Vesuvius over the Bay of Naples and the adjacent coasts. In features they are unlike, but in character the same. From this lofty eminence all incqvialities of surface are overlooked. A seemingly end- less succession of woods and waters, farms and villages, towns and cities, arc spread out as upon a boundless map. Far beyond rise the Taghkanick Mountains, and still farther PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 25 the highlands of Connecticut and Massachusetts. A little to the left, and at a still greater distance, the Green Mountains of Vermont stretch away to the north, and their blue summits and the blue sky mingle and melt together. The beautiful Hudson, studded with islands, appears narrowed in distance, ■with steamboats almost constantly in sight ; while vessels of every description, spreading their white canvass to the breeze, are moving rapidly over its surface, or idly loitering in the calm. These may be traced to the distance of nearly 70 miles with the naked eye ; and again, at times, all below is enveloped in dark cloud and rolling mist, which, driven about by the wind, is continually assuming new, wild, and fantastic forms. The whole produces an effect on the beholder un- equalled by that of any other scene in this country. The gazer turns from the sight, compelled to acknowledge that all is beautiful and all is new. Visiters, who have here as- sembled from various motives, all depart satisfied and de- lighted. The student, pale and exhausted with study and confinement, has for a while forsaken his books, and found new vigour in the * medicinal freshness' of the mountain air. The idler and the invalid have been well rewarded for their toils ; the one by the accession of health and strength, the bright- ened eye and quickened pulse, and the other by obtaining ex- citement, exercise, and pleasure, in exchange for the irksome monotony of the world below. All are for a while freed from the idle ceremonials of life, and permitted to hold unrestrained converse with Nature and her works." The Catskills are a continuation of the Alleghanies, as the Highlands are of the Blue Ridge. The Round Top is 3105 feet, and the High Peak 3019, above the level of the Hud- son. The peaks of these mountains are a kind of conglomer- ate or pudding-stone. The celebrated description of the scenery by Leather Stocking, one of the characters in the Pioneers, is doubtless familiar to our readers. A walk, or drive in the wagons provided on purpose, of one and a half miles, brings you to Cauterskill Falls. Here the outlet of two inconsider- able lakes, on whose borders the cranberry grows profusely, and beneath whose surface the horseleech abounds, leaps down a perpendicular fall of 180 feet ; then glides away through a channel it has worn in the rock to a second fall of 80 feet. Below this it is lost in the dark ravine through C 26 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. which it finds its way to the valley of the Catskill. The waterfall, bold as it is, forms, however, but one of the many interesting features of this scene. Standing on the edge of the first fall, you look down into a dreary chasm, whose steep sides, covered with the dark ivy and the thick foliage of sum- mer, seem like a green bed prepared for the reception of the waters. Making a circuit from this spot, and descending about midway of the first fall, you enter a footpath which conducts into an immense natural amphitheatre behind the waterfall. The effect of this scene is imposing beyond description. Far over your head projects a smooth surface of rock, forming a magnificent ceiling to this amphitheatre. In front is the ever- falling water, and beyond the wild mountain-dell, with the clear blue sky above it : the scene can only be appreciated on the spot. The tourist should bear in mind that the falls must be seen from below to produce the best effect, and that the view from the Pine Orchard is much finer from 3 o'clock P.M. till sunset than in the middle of the day. Coaches leave the Mountain every morning at 7 o'clock, and arrive in time to take the boat that leaves Albany at 7 o'clock for New- York. They also leave in the afternoon, and arrive in time for the day-boat for Albany and the night-boat for New- York. *HuDS0N (E. S.) was first founded in 1784, by 30 indi- viduals, emigrants from Providence, R. I., and is now quite a large and important city. It is 116 miles from New- York and 29 miles from Albany. Its population is about 6000. It is situated on an elevated plain, and the bank rises from the river in the form of an abrupt bluff, from 50 to 60 feet in height. It is to be hoped that this bluff will some day be cut through, thus opening the principal street to the river, and making a splendid landing for the steamboats. Hudson has great advantages of water-power in the vicinity, and ranks as the third in manufacturing importance in the state. A com- pany of gentlemen of this place have recently engaged in the whale-fishery. They have ten ships employed, and make it profitable. This is one landing-place for those who wish to visit New-Lebanon Springs at the Shaker Settlement, on the road from Albany to Boston, about 25 miles from Albany and 30 from Hudson. It is a delightful village, containing many attractions for travellers, among which is a mineral spring, which, together with the pleasantness of the country, PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 27 renders it the resort of invalids, and those who seek for health in the fresh air of the country. There are here several ba- thing-houses, well conducted, for which the water is well adapt- ed, being less medicinal than that of the Saratoga Springs, but clear and soft. In the vicinity of the spring is the Shaker village, consisting of a considerable number of plain wooden houses, painted and adorned in the most unostentatious man- ner. The peculiar religious services of this people excite the curiosity of strangers, and access to them is easily obtained. The settlement consists of about 600 persons, which " little community, slowly increasing in numbers, pretty rapidly in wealth and power, is a sort of miniature of a world, all of one sort, beyond which it is deemed fatal to extend a look or a mental vision !" Stages leave Boutwell's hotel for the Springs daily at half past 7 in the morning, and in the afternoon on the arrival of the morning boats from New- York. The Claverack Falls are 9 miles from Hudson. No stages run regularly to the Falls, but they can be procured at any time at Boutwell's hotel. The water falls 150 feet without interruption, except by a small point of rock which juts out from the main crag. A railroad from Hudson to West Stockbridge is nearly completed, and will be in operation in July or August of the present year. Athens, directly opposite Hudson, is a flourishing town, and contains about 1500 inhabitants. A large number of sloops sail from this place, and numerous mansions of private gentlemen adorn it. A canal has been cut through a low marshy island in the river between this place and Hudson, through which a horse ferryboat plies regularly every hour. Columbia viLLE (E. S.), 4 miles above Hudson, is in sight from the river, about a quarter of a mile from its bank. It is situated on Kinderhook Creek, which empties into the river, and contains upward of 50 houses. There are two cotton factories at the village, owned by Messrs. Wild and Jenkins. The scenery in the vicinity is of a wild and ro- mantic character. Four Mile Point (W. S.) is a high, rocky point of land op- posite Columbiaville, on which is a lighthouse. *CoxsACKiE Landing (W. S.). This is quite an enter- prising place ; a number of sloops sail for New- York daily with the produce of the interior. The village is one mile in 89- PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. rear of the Landing, and has about the same number of buildings. There is a handsome brick church at the landing, an extensive haypress, and a shipyard in which many sloops and canal-boats are built, and two or three steamboats have been constructed. Small ships have occasionally hauled up here to repair. *Stuyvesant Landing (E. S.) contains about 50 houses, a few stores, a postoffice, church, &c. Nearly opposite is a lighthouse, erected in 1829 under the direction of Samuel Swartwout, collector of the port of New- York. Two miles above, on the east side, is another, which was erected at the same time. KiNDERHOOK is situated 5 miles inland. The landing is 19 miles from Albany. New Baltimore (W. S.) is 15 miles from Albany. There is a yellow storehouse on the dock, from which a sloop sails once a week. *CoEYMANS (W. S.). Red storehouse on one wharf, white on the other. There is a stone building just south of this landing on which an antiquary might gaze with interest. A fiouring-mill will be seen a little north of the village. The name of this place is derived from that of the first patentee. Castleton (E. S.), 8 miles from Albany ; brick store on one dock, white haypress on the other. Staat's place (E. S.), 5 miles from Albany, is called Hoge^ bergh, which, in English, signifies high hill. Van Wie's Point (W. S.), 5 miles from Albany. The Overslaugh, now about 4 miles below Albany, is a place where the channel is very shoal and narrow, and occa- sionally the steamboats are obliged to " lay to" for an hour or two until the tide rises. An immense sum has been ex- pended for the improvement of the channel. The old system of lateral dikes is abandoned, and a new one making longitudi- nal piers, connecting the island, and confining the water to the centre of the river, has been adopted. To Colonel De Witt Clinton, Jr., the plan is justly attributed. The effect, so far, has answered the expectations of the public, and there can be no doubt that the appropriations annually making by Con- gress will be faithfully and successfully applied. Deep water will enable the people of Troy and Albany to enter into the sealing business, the cod fisheries, and the West India trade. ALBANY. 29 An Albany sloop under Captain Dean sailed round the world years ago. Albany is in sight from this place. Greenbush is nearly opposite Albany. On the heights above Greenbush, the remains of extensive barracks erected during the war are yet to be seen. At this place the Boston railroad will terminate. A steam ferryboat plies between tho two places. The city of Albany is the capital of New-York, the •' empire state," and contains a population of about 30,000 souls. About the year 1610, some emigrants from Holland settled here ; and it is believed to be the oldest settlement in the United States, with the exception of Jamestown in Vir- ginia. After Hudson's discovery of the river bearing his name, he returned to Holland, and the States General granted a patent to sundry merchants for an exclusive trade on the river, who, in 1614, erected a small fort on an island a short distance below the present city, which, however, was shortly after aban- doned in consequence of the floods. This fort was on Bear Island, and the commandant some- times fired on the skippers who did not salute the flag of the patroon of that day. In 1617 Fort Orange was erected, and its site is now occupied by the Fort Orange Hotel, formerly the residence of General Simeon De Witt and Abraham Bloodgood, deceased. The commercial position of Albany has always been com- manding from the earliest times. It was called the " Net" by the old inhabitants, from its catching all the northern and western trade. It still has its full share. It was thought the Erie Canal would prove its ruin, but it has been entirely the reverse. In 1820 its population was but 12,600. It is now upward of 30,000. Its history, when written, will be found very interesting, and it has been undertaken by a committee of the Albany Institute, which has been for years engaged in collecting materials, though an important hiatus is yet to be filled up relating to its capture by the English. On the 24th of September, 1664, the garrison at the fort surrendered to an English force under Colonel Carteret, who named the place Albany, in compliment to the Duke of York and Albany, the then proprietor of the province under a charter from Charles II., to whom the Dutch had surrendered. In 1686 the city was incorporated under a charter granted C2 30 ALBANY. by Governor Dongan. In this charter it is called " an ancient city." Previously to the revolutionary war the city was sur- rounded by a stockade ; the houses were in the Dutch style of architecture, with the gable end to the street, and the city bore a very rural aspect. Almost every house had a large tree at the door, many of which we are told " were of prodigious size and extraordinary beauty." Until within a few years many of these old buildings were standing ; but recently the progress of modem improvement has destroyed nearly the whole of them ; a few, however, still remain, the solitary monuments of " olden time." In 1754 a congress was convened here, consisting of com- missioners from seven of the provinces, who enrolled among their number some of the most celebrated names in our colo- nial history. The congress formed a plan of union for the colonies, and advanced such doctrines and views as to their rights as, we are fully justified in believing, left a permanent impression in the minds of the colonists. An interesting ac- count of this treaty is to be found in Franklin's works. During the revolutionary war Albany was a post of great importance, being the point of communication with all the western and northern fortresses, and was always intrusted to men of the highest courage and ability. Among those chiefly in command were General Lafayette, General Schuyler, and Colonel Van Schaick, a veteran of two wars. Albany has now been the seat of government of the State of New-York nearly forty years, and has lately progressed rap- idly in extent and population. Its commerce and trade are very extensive. Being situated near the head of tide-water of the Hudson, and communicating directly with the canals, its facilities for transportation to all parts of the country are very great, and constantly increasing. From the favourable posi- tion of the city, and the almost boundless wealth of the inte- rior, it is but reasonable to suppose that Albany will con- tinue to grow and flourish, and long remain, what it already is, one of the first cities in our confederacy. The great Erie Canal terminates near the north line of the city, at the head of a spacious basin. There are in the city several fiine and costly public buildings, as well as many pri- vate ones. The Capital^ at the head of State-street, is a fine stone ed- ifice, 115 feet front, and has a portico supported by four Ionic ALBANY. 31 marble columns 33 feet in height. It is occupied for the sit- tings of the legislature and the state courts, and cost $120,000. The interior is shown to strangers. The Academy, which stands on the square north of the Cap- itol, is built of freestone, and considered the most chaste and beautiful specimen of architecture in the city. It cost about $100,000. The Lyceum of the '* Albany Institute" occupies a part of this building. The Museum and Library are well worthy of examination. The Albany Institute contains some learned members, whose literary and scientific productions are well known abroad, where they have been republished extensively, and who are members of foreign societies of distinction. The City Hall, on the east side of the square, fronting the Capitol and Academy, is constructed of Singsing marble, and surmounted by a beautifully gilded dome ; the only one, it is believed, in America. It forms a prominent object in ap- proaching the city, and, when the sun shines upon it, can be seen twelve or fifteen miles distant. This building is used principally for city and county offices, and the several courts. The interior contains a model of the statue of Hamilton, and tablets to the memory of Clinton and Walter Scott. The view from the dome is exceedingly fine, and should by no means be omitted by strangers. The New State Hall, a little north of the City Hall, is a splendid building, and now in rapid progress to completion. Stanwix Hall, recently erected, is one of the most substan- tial and permanent buildings in our country. It is constructed of Quincy granite from the vicinity of Boston. The saloon of this building is at least equal to any similar one in the state. It is surmounted by a large dome, which adds greatly to its appearance. The Old State House, in State-street, is a building of an- tique appearance, but not otherwise remarkable. It is occu- pied by the secretary of state, chancellor, register, adjutant- general, but is to be sold on the completion of the new build- uig". The New Exchange, at the foot of State-street, is to be erected of granite, and, though a heavy and ungraceful struc- ture, will be of great benefit to the town. It occupies the site of the old Albany Bank and the adjacent block. In the centre of Market and State streets, just in front of 32 ALBANIA the Exchange, stood the original Dutch Church, an ancient structure, having many peculiarities of form and finish. The windows were of stained glass, containing the coats of arms of the old families. The old burgesses were in the habit of sitting in this church, in the winter season, with cocked hats upon their heads, tippets round their necks, and muffs upon their hands. Numerous engravings are preserved of this building. In State-street, just opposite the old state build- ings, was the site of the second fort erected in Albany, which IS still remembered by many of the inhabitants. The old barracks within the walls was made the scene of a popular English novel ! The city was stockaded, and had gates at the north and south entrances from the country. In the lower part of the city, on an eminence overlooking the ferry, is the former residence of General Schuyler ; and in the upper part, the well known and hospitable mansion of the *' Patroon," S. Van Rensselaer, Esq. An extensive Almshouse and an Orphan Asylum are situated a httle distance west from the city. The Museum Building, at the corner of State and Market streets, is built in nearly a semi-elliptical form, four stories high besides the basement, and is, without doubt, one of the most showy buildings in the state, both as it regards architec- ture and the material of which it is constructed. The three upper stories are occupied by the Museum, containing a very large collection of curiosities of various descriptions, all of which are preserved and arranged in the most scientific man- ner. This concern is well worthy the attention of all who visit the city. The proprietors are valuable and much esteem- ed citizens. The terrace affords a very extended view of the surrounding country. The Albany Theatrf, is a handsome brick building, scan- tily supplied with architectural ornaments in front. The in- terior is commodious and elegant. Albany contains twenty-two churches, some of them very- elegant in their exterior and interior, two of them fitted with *' Spanish bells ;" two female academies, that in north Pearl- street possessing accomplished teachers, a fine library, ex- cellent apparatus, and a large number of scholars. At the Albany Academy, boys are taught all the branches of a collegiate education, and excel in mathematics and natural philosophy. The Young Men's Association is an institution ALBANY. 33 where all the newspapers and periodicals of the day are re- ceived, lectures delivered during the winter season, and strangers are admittad by giving their names to the librarian. There are several banks, insurance companies, and associ- ations of a benevolent nature. The ladies of Albany of all classes are noted for their beauty. The principal hotels are the Eagle, the American, Congress Hall, the Mansion House, and the City Hotel. There are numerous respectable private boarding-houses, but a grand hotel is yet wanted to make Albany what it should be for travellers. The principal avenues for the city are the M'Adam road to Troy, the beautiful ride down the river on the west bank to Stoneridge and Kidd's Cave, and the Mohawk and Schenec- tady Railroad. The latter was commenced July 29, 1830, and, had it been directed by competent superintendents (we do not allude to the worthy engineers), a vast amount of money might have been saved to the stockholders. It was, unfortunately, made a stock-jobbing affair, and it has gradually fallen in value. The summit is 335 feet above the Hudson. The greatest height of embankment is 44 feet, the greatest depth of exca- vation 47 feet. There are two inclined planes, one at each end, where are stationary engines. It has for some time been well known that both these might be done away with, and an expense of $16,000 a year saved to the company. Until competent and well-read men are selected as directors of railroad companies, the stockholders must be content to lose their investments. Connected with this road are the Saratoga and Schenec- tady Railroad, and the Utica and Schenectady. The former is 21^ miles long, the inclination of the road being very slight. The latter is one of the finest and best-managed roads in this country. (See Railroads.) There are now no packet-boats on the canal between Al- bany and Schenectady. Two boats of this description were employed on this route in 1827 ; but did not succeed, in con- sequence of the detention at the locks — no less than 27 in number. The distance is 28 ^ miles. By the railroad it is only 16 miles, which is accomplished in between one and two hours, while on the canal the passage occupies from twelve to fourteen hours. Persons wishing to take the packet- boats (which leave Schenectady for Utica, Rochester, Oswego, 34 ALBANY. and Buffalo every day at 7J o'clock P.M.) will take the rail- road cars from Albany at 65 and 9 o'clock A.M., and at 3, 5, and Gi o'clock P.M. Cars leave for Saratoga direct, without delay, at Schenectady, daily at 9 o'clock A.M. and 3 o'clock P.M., from the depot 115 State-street. For Tkoy, 6 miles north of Albany, stages leave every half hour ; and there are small steamboats which leave on the ar- rival of every boat from New- York, and at intermediate hours. Stages leave daily for Utica, Rochester, and Buffalo^ at 11 A.M. and 3 and II o'clock P.M. For Whitehall, daily, at 9 o'clock A.M. to meet the new steamboats on Lake Champlain, which run to St. Johns, where passengers take the railroad to Laprairie and Montreal, distant about 30 miles. For Boston (through in two days), via Lebanon Springs, Fittsfield, Northampton, and Worcester, daily, except on Sunday, at 2 o'clock A.M. For Providence (through in two days), via Westjield, Munson, and Stockbridge, daily, except on Sunday, at 2 o'clock A.M. For Hartford (through in one day), via Sheffield and Nor- folk, daily, except on Sunday, at 1 o'clock A.M. For New-Haven (through in a day and a half), via Litch- ^eld, daily, except on Sunday, at 1 o'clock P.M. For Lebanon Springs, via Nassau Village, every morn- ing at 9 o'clock. For Montreal (during the winter), every morning at 2 o'clock — through in three days. For Cherry Valley, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 2 o'clock A.M., Baker's Office, South Market-street. Railroad Office, 115 State-street. Steamboat Office, on the pier foot of State-street and Hamilton-street. People's line foot of Lydius-street. New-York and Oswego Line. Passengers, baggage, and foods forwarded by this line to Oswego, and all the ports on e, under overarching rocks, to the foot of the High Fall. The whole forms a stupendous scene ; and those feelmiis