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GLIMPSES OF 
 
 Scandinavia and Russia 
 
 CH AS F CUTTING 
 
 En ecrivant mes souvenirs, je me rapellerai le 
 
 temps passe, qui dmiblera, pour ainsi dire, mon 
 
 existence. 
 %■ . J J ROUSSEAU 
 
 3^' 
 
 BOSTON 
 
 THOMAS GROOM & COMPANY PUBLISHERS 
 
 INDIA BUILDING 82 STATE STREET 
 1887 
 
PRIVATELY PRINTED 
 lOO Copies 
 
HT^HE following pages are extracts from a journal 
 (^ written hastily, at odd moments, during a rapid 
 journey in the summer of 1887. The majority of 
 them were written in my stateroom, or while riding in a 
 railway carriage, after a hard day's sight-seeing. The 
 fragmentary character of the descriptions does such in- 
 justice to the places visited that I, even at the last moment, 
 hesitate to commit them to print ; but the kindly expressed 
 wishes of my friends, and also the almost total absence of 
 guide books of these countries, have prevailed upon me 
 to hope that I might perhaps awaken a curiosity to visit 
 these wondrous regions, and thus indirectly be the means 
 of giving as rare a pleasure to others as the journey has 
 
 afforded me. 
 
 C. F. C. 
 
 LoNGWOOD, December ist, 1887. 
 
Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 HULL. 
 
 5 HERE is nothing new to write in these days 
 of the crossing of the Atlantic. In such mag- 
 nificent ships as the Umbria and Etruria it is 
 reduced to a matter of hours, and the passages are 
 made with the regularity of ferry-boats. 
 
 We had an uneventful trip on the latter, with Capt. 
 Cook ; leaving New York on a Saturday morning 
 and lunching in Liverpool the following Saturday, 
 at two p. M. At five, we left by train for Hull, where 
 we arrived promptly at ten the same evening, and 
 were thus in the Station Hotel in just seven days 
 and nine hours from the time of leaving the Metro- 
 politan Hotel in New York, having in the mean time 
 crossed the Atlantic and the whole of England, with 
 
8 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 a delay of one hour at Queenstown and three hours 
 in Liverpool. 
 
 Sunday, The day is so very warm that I do not go out. 
 
 "^^' V and B are in London, expecting to meet 
 
 me here Wednesday next, to sail on the Domino, of 
 the Wilson Line, for Norway and the North Cape. 
 How I do long to get away ! The hotel is stupid 
 and hot, without a soul to be seen in its large, 
 pleasant hall and waiting-rooms. The maids are all 
 chatting together in the serving-room, on my floor, 
 with nothing to do. The waiters in the coffee-room 
 are asleep. It is one of those large, fine hotels, 
 managed by the railroad companies, and adjoining 
 the terminus, so common in England. It is very 
 comfortable, very cheerless, very lonely. Have 
 serious thoughts of hunting up the American Con- 
 sul, if there is one in Hull, for the mere sake of 
 something to do ; but the streets, as seen from the 
 windows, appear equally deserted and uninteresting, 
 and thoughts that necessitate exercise, however 
 serious, vanish upon consulting the thermometer. 
 A Sunday in a provincial, commercial town in Eng- 
 land, without friends, is indeed a holy day ! 
 
 July 4. I could endure it no longer in Hull, and after 
 
Scarborough. g 
 
 making all my arrangements with the steamer people 
 this morning, I left my heavy luggage behind, and 
 came north by train, one and three-quarter hours, to 
 
 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 How can I describe this unique and lovely spot ! 
 A broad, sandy beach, about the length of Newport's 
 first beach, is enclosed by high cliffs, as at Dover ; 
 at the top and bottom of which are broad asphalt 
 and macadamized promenades and drive-ways, con- 
 nected at intervals by almost vertical tramways. In 
 front is the broad expanse of the North Sea, covered 
 with pleasure-boats of all descriptions. The cliffs 
 are terraced with ornamental masonry, and laid out 
 in groves and gardens, through which wind inter- 
 minable, zigzag walks, quite to the very top, which 
 tax the strength of the strongest man to ascend. A 
 large part of one side is occupied by the Spa Garden, 
 with terraced theatre and casino, kiosks, band 
 stand, rustic bridges, and heavy sea-wall of sand- 
 stones. On the other side the foundations of the 
 Grand Hotel are built, receding from the water, 
 story on story, like one side of a huge pyramid, to 
 the crest of the cliff, on top of which is the hotel 
 
10 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 building proper ; the top of each story forming de- 
 lightful and lofty promenade balconies, which com- 
 mand the striking views of this magnificent natural 
 amphitheatre. 
 
 The North Cliff, which encloses the bay on one 
 side, has along its crest, and extending down to the 
 water's edge, a ruined, old, machicolated wall, which 
 adds not a little to the general picturesqueness. 
 At its foot the larger ships and craft lie gathered in 
 safety, protected by a solid breakwater of masonry. 
 
 To the south, the cliffs extend one after another 
 down the coast, until they are lost in the distance. 
 
 And now comes the finest feature of all. In the 
 centre of the amphitheatre, and parting the cliffs to 
 the very sands on the beach, is a broad gorge, or 
 ravine, extending up and back through the town, and 
 far inland. This is exquisitely laid out as a public 
 valley park, with clustering, dense shade-trees, which 
 afford delightful cool retreats amongst flowers and 
 velvety lawn. This ravine is crossed by two lofty, 
 airy, ornamental, iron viaducts, which connect the 
 two parts of the town. 
 
 The residences are on the top of the cliffs, — fine, 
 solid English houses, with only a driveway between 
 them and the edge of the declivity. 
 
Scarborough. II 
 
 As one sits on the terraces in the long twilight of 
 these latitudes, listening to the music of the Spa 
 Band, to the distant breaking of the water on the 
 beach far below, to the answering call of the fisher- 
 man to a passing boat, or to the singing of happy 
 pleasure-seekers floating idly over the waters of the 
 bay in their gaily decked yachts ; with the magnifi- 
 cent panorama of the broad, boundless sea and the 
 terraced shore before one, — it is hard to realize 
 that there is, anywhere, a world of toil and care and 
 worry, and that these moments of great enjoyment 
 are only a short but never-to-be-forgotten day-dream. 
 
 This afternoon, walked up through the narrow juiys. 
 lanes of the old town to the church, and then on to 
 the castle on the North Cliff. It is a picturesque 
 and lofty ruin of an old Norman building ; sur- 
 rounded by walls ; now used — what part of it is 
 still habitable — as a military depot for stores. In 
 what was the old castle-yard, a fine, large, green 
 plot, on the very crest of the cliff as it stretches out 
 into the sea, volunteers were encamped. Squads 
 were being drilled ; others were practising cannon- 
 firing at a floating target far below on the 
 water. 
 
12 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 From this crest, the view north is quite as exten- 
 sive as toward the south. Another beach, from the 
 middle of which juts out a long iron promenade pier, 
 with the houses on the shore, forms what is called 
 North Scarborough. It is not, however, a fashion- 
 able quarter, nor does it compare in beauty with the 
 situation of the main town. 
 
 I have been all over the shore, cliffs, and valley, 
 again and again, to-day, and can only still marvel at 
 the very striking features of the place, it combines 
 so many and varied attractions, the sights are all so 
 thoroughly characteristic. The old fishermen and 
 boys in the fish-market on the open beach ; the tiny 
 donkeys standing patiently in the sands for the chil- 
 dren to amble about on, with horses alongside for 
 their elders ; bath-houses on wheels, dragged in and 
 out of the water by horses, while the occupants are 
 inside ; landing carts, platforms, also on wheels, to 
 keep the feet dry when getting off boats in a shallow 
 bottom ; the nurses and children ; the carriages and 
 liveries and flunkeys ; pony phaetons on hire, with 
 jockey boy riders, in striped silk costumes, astride 
 the horse, dash about everywhere, and add quite a 
 feature. Above all towers, story on story, and wide, 
 
Scarborough. /J 
 
 broad balcony on balcony, the enormous, overshad- 
 owing pile of the Grand Hotel. 
 
 There is an aquarium here, under ground, after 
 the style of the one at Brighton ; but there is too 
 much to see in the air and sunlight that is fascinat- 
 ing, to waste any time on it. 
 
 Another stroll about Scarborough until noon, Jiiyc- 
 when I return to Hull by a pleasant route through 
 Filey and Bridlington, passing near towns with the 
 
 familiar names of Beverly and Boston. V and 
 
 B arrive from London at three, and at six we 
 
 sail on the Domino for Norway. She is a clever 
 little steamer, of about 900 tons burthen, without 
 cargo and very light, — seeming a small bit of a 
 ship in contrast with the spacious accommodations 
 of the Etruria. 
 
 The passengers are all in the saloon at dinner- 
 time ; but soon after getting outside the harbor we 
 begin to pitch and roll, to such an extent that very 
 few care to linger over the dessert ; and very many 
 decide, quite early in the evening, that as we shall 
 probably lose a great deal of sleep during the weeks 
 of the voyage, they will turn in at once and get it 
 while they can ! 
 
I^f Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 July 7. The North Sea seems determined to keep up its 
 reputation, to-day at all events, and our wise friends 
 of last evening seem equally determined to get their 
 sleep while they may. A few of us have the break- 
 fast tables entirely to ourselves, ditto lunch, ditto 
 dinner. No wonder, for the motion is horrible! 
 Mist and rain add to our discomfort. It is also cold 
 and chilly. Altogether, a beastly day ! 
 
 After nine, however, in the evening, a bright, 
 clear, brilliant streak of color along the northern 
 horizon, beneath the clouds, is a sure indication, 
 Captain Tholander says, of fair weather to-morrow.. 
 This color continues all the evening, and is bright 
 as ever when we go below at eleven. 
 
 STAVANGER. 
 
 Julys. We sight the coast of Norway early, and soon 
 after breakfast are amongst rocky islands, approach- 
 ing the town of Stavanger, behind which, far inland, 
 lie a long range of snow-capped mountains, blue and 
 hazy in the morning mist. We moor alongside the 
 pier at noon, and roam about the uninteresting little 
 fishing village for a couple of hours, while our fresh 
 provisions of salmon, lobster, milk and eggs are being 
 
Stavanger. I£ 
 
 put on board. At three we sail for Bergen, where 
 we expect to arrive at midnight. The term is rather 
 a misnomer in these latitudes, as already there are 
 only a few hours of darkness left to us out of the 
 twenty-four. 
 
 Our rough weather and sea-sickness are all over 
 now for the rest of the voyage. We are in smooth 
 water, inside of a vast chain of islands, which extend 
 entirely along the coast. I think it would be almost 
 literally true to here state (and I consider it my duty 
 so to do, lest the description of our experience in 
 crossing from the English to the Norwegian coast 
 might deter some from making this cruise) that from 
 this point north, with the exception of a few hours 
 about the North Cape, we did not again see the 
 open ocean, and that out of our large party of 
 seventy-two, including many ladies, there was not 
 another case of sea-sickness on board. 
 
 BERGEN. 
 
 We have an early breakfast, and spend the whole juiy 9. 
 day on shore, dining at the Nord Hotel. The 
 change from ship life was agreeable, and we passed 
 a most enjoyable day. Next to Christiania, Bergen 
 
l6 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 is the chief town of Norway, It is very pleasantly 
 situated in a ravine, at the head of a long arm of the 
 sea. A finely constructed roadway winds up a moun- 
 tain side, near the town, which we slowly climbed 
 for an hour, occasionally walking to relieve our 
 plucky little, hardy pony. At every turn we had 
 new and unsurpassed views of the valley below, the 
 town, harbor, and fjord. The country is honey- 
 combed with water in every direction, thus adding 
 a striking feature to the vast panorama. 
 
 We drove inland four miles, up the valley, to see 
 a curious old Norse church of fantastic architecture. 
 It is one of several of its kind in Norway, built of 
 hard pine, with a thick coat of black pitch in lieu 
 of paint, reminding one somewhat of the eccentrici- 
 ties one sees in prints of Japanese structures. It 
 was originally on the Sognefjord, but was purchased, 
 brought to this place, and repaired by a private 
 gentleman, simply to ornament his grounds. Its 
 location is now superb : on a bold hill in the centre 
 of a lovely valley, approached by well-kept walks, 
 which lead to a succession of broad vistas of the 
 surrounding country. 
 
 The peasants in their quaint costumes are inter- 
 
Bergen. ly 
 
 esting. We passed many of them during the day, 
 either walking, driving in their tiny two-wheeled 
 carts, or working in their curious, old-fashioned way 
 on their little plots of ground. Let me give one 
 illustration of their method of farm-work, — the hay- 
 making. Poles are stuck in the ground in rows, 
 between which are stretched parallel cords ; with 
 their hands the green grass is gathered from the 
 field, and is carefully bent and hung on these cords 
 to dry ! This method of curing the grass was even 
 used on the larger places, where it was cut with 
 horses and an American mowing-machine. 
 
 After a stroll through the not very interesting 
 museum, we sail northward at four, and must con- 
 gratulate ourselves upon having had one of the few 
 fair days of the year at Bergen. 
 
 ROMSDALS FJORD. 
 
 This is one of the many grand inlets, reaching far July 19. 
 inland to the north of . Bergen. The approach and 
 entrance this morning were delightful ; reminding 
 one, in the way we were apparently closed in, at 
 times, between the rocky walls, of sailing on The 
 Lake of the Four Cantons, at Lucerne. We had a 
 
l8 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 merry party on the forecastle after breakfast, betting 
 on our course as we approached the different turning 
 points. 
 
 At eleven, service was read by one of our passen- 
 gers, a rector, — irreverently nicknamed " Three 
 eyes," by some of our younger companions, from his 
 English habit of wearing one eye-glass. The service 
 was performed in such a matter-of-fact-way, and was 
 so evidently a duty to be done and quickly over 
 with, even to the stopping of the ship that we might 
 not lose any of the scenery, that it might better 
 have been entirely dispensed with : a great contrast 
 to what one sees on the Atlantic, where the solem- 
 nity of the hour levels all ranks, and the crew, en 
 grande tenue, officers, passengers, and emigrants, all 
 assemble in the saloon on one common footing ; 
 where the captain would on no consideration waive 
 his right to lead the service, and in a gruff, hearty, 
 but reverent manner reads to the best of his ability. 
 Nor shall I ever forget the memorable Sunday morn- 
 ing at sea when the Rev. Brooke Herford gave us 
 one of his simple, noble, and impressive addresses. 
 
 Our service on the Domino was held in the so- 
 called ball-room. As the cruise was entirely for the 
 
Romsdals Fjord. ig 
 
 pleasure and comfort of the passengers, the unused 
 forehold had very thoughtfully been cleanly painted, 
 carpeted with white canvas, furnished with a piano 
 and comfortable chairs and benches, and adorned 
 with branches and green leaves. It made a large, 
 useful room, which we used constantly for various 
 purposes ; where almost daily, after dinner, music 
 and dancing were the order of the day. 
 
 We cast anchor after lunch, go ashore in our 
 steam launch, and all take carrioles and stolk wagons 
 up through the Romsdals Valley, around past the 
 Romsdalshorn (which rises to a height of 5,090 feet), 
 to the First Station. The scenery here is a repeti- 
 tion of that on the fjord, except that the valley walls 
 close in about us, and the water is narrowed down to 
 a noisy, turbulent, mountain torrent. The perpen- 
 dicular walls of granite, several thousand feet high, 
 with their barren sides, remind one of the Black 
 Valley of the Gunnison in our Rockies. Snow lies 
 on the tops and sides of all the peaks, extending 
 down in many places to within a few feet of us, while 
 clouds hang about the highest points. The roads 
 are excellent, though of steep grades in places ; but 
 our rugged little Norwegian ponies are quite equal 
 to it all. 
 
20 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 At the First Station we halt. The more adventur- 
 ous push on to the Second, some even to the Third 
 Station, where they spend the night ; but our imme- 
 diate party preferred returning to our comfortable 
 quarters aboard ship, to a good dinner, and to the 
 quiet enjoyment of the grand spectacle of surround- 
 ing mountains and snow, as seen from the deck. 
 
 We have now, practically, daylight all night. It 
 seems curious to hear good-nights taken, and to re- 
 tire in the twilight ; but sleep must be had, so we 
 darken our staterooms and turn in. 
 July II. What a lazily enjoyable life this is! Quite like 
 my Mediterranean trip in my bachelor days of long 
 ago. We have here no annoyance of luggage or 
 customs ; no expense of hotels ; boats and a steam 
 launch ply between ship and shore at all moments, 
 and stewards are always at hand, always within call 
 of an electric bell. We are in a floating hotel, in 
 fact, which we take along with us wherever we go. 
 Here in this far north country there is always much 
 to interest one. Lounging in our sea chairs or 
 chatting in groups, we have on all sides the grandest 
 works of nature. Men are curing and gathering hay 
 within sight, and at times only a few feet away from 
 
Molde. 21 
 
 the snow and ice which melt and run down in fine 
 streams or rapid torrents from the rocky mountain 
 sides to the brawling rivers in the valleys, all to be 
 gathered into the fjords on which we sail. 
 Leave at eleven for 
 
 MOLDE, 
 
 about an hour and a-half from our present anchorage, 
 back and out towards the coast again. 
 
 We drive about on shore for three hours, above 
 and beyond the town ; afterwards strolling under 
 long rows of beech-trees to the Grand Hotel, where 
 cakes and coffee were served on the verandah. A 
 superb, bright day, with the same noble panorama 
 of mountain and snow across the fjord, ever before 
 us, whether walking or driving, whether on ship or 
 shore. 
 
 We were awakened this morning by a dreadful J"iy "• 
 din next our stateroom, and found that we were 
 moored alongside the pier at 
 
 DRONTHEIM, 
 
 taking in coals. We escaped from the noise and 
 dirt as soon as possible, taking refuge in Hotel 
 d'Angleterre, where we found a crowding influx of 
 
22 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 two streams of tourists, from the north and south, 
 taxed the resources of the establishment beyond all 
 question of individual comfort. 
 
 Following the course of a river through and out 
 beyond the town, during the forenoon, we drove 
 about four miles back on the hills to a waterfall of 
 some local renown. The water rushing down in 
 great volumes, and dashing against rocks, fills the 
 air with mist and spray, wetting every thing below 
 and about, making the steep descent to the bottom 
 very slippery, and the ascent most difficult. 
 
 Drontheim Cathedral, situated on the site of St. 
 Olaf s well, is undergoing most thorough and exten- 
 sive restoration. It is one of the oldest in Norway, 
 and, aside from its really curious and interesting 
 interior architecture, its marble octagon, gargoyles, 
 carved heads and columns, it is within its sacred 
 walls that every king of Norway must come for 
 coronation. 
 
 The best view of the town and harbor is had from 
 an old, dilapidated castle on the north side of the 
 river. We spent most of the afternoon on its grass- 
 grown walls. The vegetation of the valley is sur- 
 prisingly green and luxuriant for the latitude, — 
 
Drontheim. 2^ 
 
 different from anything we have seen, or shall see 
 again for some time. 
 
 The buildings, like all we have thus far seen in 
 Scandinavia, are mostly of wood, with tile or stone 
 roofs. They look new and modern for the traditions 
 of the country, and are rather disappointing in this 
 respect. 
 
 The inhabitants are cleanly, civil, honest, and 
 obliging. The children are mostly pretty, the girls 
 
 with bright red cheeks and light, flaxen hair. B 
 
 forgot his coat, and left it — or rather I did — in a 
 carriage at Veblungsnaes. As it was a new mackin- 
 tosh, which he had just purchased in London, he 
 took the trouble to go ashore on the chance of find- 
 ing it. There stood the boy with it on the pier, 
 waiting for him, much pleased at the opportunity of 
 returning it. Fancy this of a coachman or cabby 
 in most countries ! 
 
 We lingered on deck last night, — or rather, this juiy 13. 
 morning, for we no longer know day from night, — 
 and for the first time saw the sun set and rise within 
 thirty minutes. We did not at first realize what it 
 was. We were all watching the sunset, — a deep 
 crimson glow, — until gradually we noticed, only a 
 
2^f. Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 few points away, faint streaks of yellow light. We 
 thought at first a heavy cloud lay between, obstruct- 
 ing the color, until, with the rapidily increasing 
 light, we suddenly understood that we were watch- 
 ing the first break of dawn, while the deep crimson 
 of the sunset still lingered in the sky. At one 
 o'clock we went below, darkened our stateroom with 
 
 B 's focussing cloth, and were soon asleep. This 
 
 morning when we got up we were at 
 
 TORGHATTEN, 
 
 65 deg. north latitude. This is an island, said to 
 resemble a hat ; hence its name ; but I failed to 
 make out the resemblance. It is a huge truncated 
 cone of rock, in the centre of which is a natural tun- 
 nel entirely through it. We landed in boats and 
 climbed up over the loose rocks and wet bogs to the 
 entrance of the shaft. It was a severe pull, but we 
 felt amply repaid. The tunnel is about sixty-five 
 feet high, and the same width, and five hundred feet 
 through. The rocks have fallen piece by piece, and 
 this makes the sharp descent a most difficult under- 
 taking. The view of the numerous islands and rocks, 
 as seen through this rocky square aperture, gave one 
 
Torghatten. 2^ 
 
 the impression of looking from a huge window in 
 a tower. 
 
 Words will not describe the beauty of the evening July m- 
 and midnight hours last night. About eight the sun 
 burst from a heavy cloud, bathing sea and mountain 
 in a flood of light. The effect was superb as we all 
 sat on the forecastle ; the water was as smooth as 
 glass, and the prow seemed to cut its way through a 
 light skim of ice. The stillness was profound, and 
 broken only by the noises of the ship. The light on 
 the shore, mountain and snow was the most beautiful 
 and peculiar that I have ever seen. Looking along 
 shore to the north, it resembled a painting, with the 
 bluish purple haze about the near mountains, fading 
 to a grayish color, as the coast receded in the distance, 
 while there was a flood of white crystal light on the 
 snow, changing to a golden and later to a crimson 
 glow. It was such a beautiful evening that the 
 captain decided to go to the 
 
 SVARTISEN GLACIER, 
 
 about ten miles up one of the fjords. Here again 
 was more good fortune for us. On his last trip this 
 whole region was enveloped in fog, and nothing was 
 
26 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 seen of this delightful neighborhood. We passed 
 the Seven Sisters after dinner, and the Arctic Circle 
 at 7.45. We landed about 11.30 p. m., at the foot of 
 the glacier, which here comes quite down to the sea. 
 As seen from the steamer, it appears only a few feet 
 away. Baedeker says it is seventy-eight miles long, 
 and one of the largest in the world. Of course, we 
 could only see a small portion of it as it lay glisten- 
 ing before us, rising up between two mountains 
 2,500 to 3,000 feet high. With great difficulty we 
 began a portion of its ascent. Walking upon it was 
 even perilous. The captain sent out with us six or 
 eight sailors with ropes and axes, and most useful 
 they were. In several places we could not go up 
 nor down without their aid and the steps they cut 
 for us. The contrasting dark blue and green colors 
 of the ice and water as seen away down the deep 
 fissures and crevasses were very beautiful in this 
 great frozen white sea. Hardy, thrifty, bright-colored 
 plants and flowers grew to the very glacier's edge. 
 We returned on board about one in the morning, a 
 weary but delighted party, to sit on the deck for an- 
 other hour, watching the growing lights and colors of 
 the rising sun. A marvellous, wonderful experience is 
 
Svartisen Glacier. 2'J 
 
 this Arctic life and constant daylight ! A dream 
 never to be forgotten ! After about six hours' sleep 
 and a bath in the waters of the Arctic Ocean — 
 clear, cold, and invigorating — we are again on 
 deck, and find ourselves inside the Lafoten Islands, 
 where, with clear weather, we hope to stop on our 
 way back. The coast grows more bare and rugged, 
 vegetation is more scarce, and we are in constant 
 sight of snow. The day is clear and fine, warm 
 on deck in the sun, and sleep is the order of the 
 forenoon. 
 
 All day long we sail past huge granite boulders, juiy 15. 
 covered with snow on top, and with sparse, greenish 
 patches of moss lower down. Towards evening we 
 pass through the fjord south of North Cape Island, 
 and sail twenty-six miles to the eastward, to a point 
 called Bird Island, under the north cliff of which 
 we stop. A cannon was fired from the deck, and 
 instantly the air was filled with millions on millions 
 of birds. This is a vast breeding spot. Upon ex- 
 amining the wall with our glasses, we found every 
 crack and crevice, every hole and projection, literally 
 alive with birds and filled with nests, countless be- 
 yond description. 
 
28 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 From this point we steamed back to the 
 
 NORTH CAPE, 
 
 the goal of all our northward travels. Entering and 
 anchoring near a Norwegian excursion steamer, in a 
 small bay on the east side, we landed about ten p. m., 
 and began the steep, zigzag climb up the side of the 
 rock, which is nearly i,ooo feet high. It was a most 
 severe exertion, our inactive life aboard ship making 
 it all the more difficult for us. My breath gave out 
 at several places, my temples throbbed, and my head 
 seemed filled to bursting. Up we climbed wearily, 
 step by step, clinging to the ropes, — up, alongside a 
 gorge filled with snow, — up, past bright double butter- 
 cups (great balls of bright color on the grim walls), 
 — up, past the pink, delicate blossoms of the green 
 moss and the blue forget-me-nots, until, finally, 
 wearied and worn out, we reached the level plateau 
 and the glorious midnight sunlight. All our fatigue 
 vanished in the enthusiasm of the hour. A longish 
 walk over rough stones and through wet bog brought 
 us to the monument commemorating the visit of 
 King Oscar II., and to the edge of the cliff, — the 
 northernmost point of one continent. The weather 
 
North Cape. 2g 
 
 was superb. There was not a cloud in the sky, and, 
 at midnight, the sun was still ten degrees above the 
 horizon. Geiger raised his American flag, which 
 he had carried with him for 40,000 miles in a tour 
 around the world, and which he had flung to the 
 breeze on the Pyramids, on the Chinese Wall, in 
 the vale of Cashmere, and away up among the 
 Himalayas. Our boatswain and sailors raised the 
 English colors. We drank to the rulers of America, 
 of England, and of Norway, and shout after shout 
 went up as the different toasts were proposed. 
 Away, far to the north of us, stretched the 
 Arctic Ocean. We were many miles to the north 
 of the corresponding latitude in which Sir John 
 Franklin lost his life, and within about eighteen 
 
 degrees of the North Pole. B photographed 
 
 the rock, the sun, and our group, all between twelve 
 and one a. m. After our excitement had abated a bit, 
 we sat down to enjoy one of the unique moments of 
 our lives. Away, far, far below us, lay our steamer. 
 There was water in front, and on both sides of us, 
 and behind us the stern, forbidding rocks. We sat 
 and gazed away up northward, while our thoughts 
 and feelings were too deep for conversation. Not 
 
JO Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 a syllable was spoken until, with a deep sigh, we 
 realized that we must up and away again. 
 
 The return to our launch and ship was most re- 
 luctantly made ; but, all the way down, the panorama 
 of bay and path and rocks below us was most enjoy- 
 able. The passengers, descending in long files and 
 zigzag lines, clinging to the ropes, looked like tiny 
 ants in the distance. The ladies could not resist 
 plucking the flowers within their reach as they 
 passed along, — reminding one of the way cows crop 
 the last mouthful of sweet green grass along the 
 roadside as they are being driven home. We reached 
 the ship about two a. m., and then went for a couple 
 of hours' fishing. About four we steamed away, 
 this time to the south, for Hammerfest and the 
 beginning of our homeward journey. 
 
 HAMMERFEST, 
 
 July i6. the northernmost town in Europe, is not noted for 
 cleanliness or its objects of interest. 
 
 We saw Lapps for the first time, male and female ; 
 greasy, dirty-looking creatures they are ! There was 
 an amusing incident in front of one of the wooden 
 curio shops this morning. A Lapp girl had been 
 
Hammerfest. Ji 
 
 following our party about the village for some time, 
 apparently — except that she moved on when we did, 
 and stopped when we stopped — stolid and indiffer- 
 ent to every thing. Not a muscle of her face ever 
 altered from its wooden stare. The ladies wagered 
 that I could not bring a smile to her face. I went 
 down off the rickety wooden steps to the street, 
 smiling kindly and approaching closely to try and 
 awaken some interest in her ; but all to no avail. 
 She stood as indifferent as an aged but faithful mas- 
 tiff, who cannot be persuaded to move on until his 
 master goes. At last I took out a silver kroner and 
 put it in her hand. Suddenly she smiled all over, 
 a broad, coarse smile of delight, and, putting out her 
 huge paw, I was obliged to submit to a regular pump- 
 handle hand-shake, in thanks for my colossal present 
 to her. The shrieks of laughter, the clapping of 
 hands and shouts of amusement from our party, 
 made a din which filled the whole narrow street, 
 under cover of which I retired to wash my hands ! 
 The town is small, and entirely unimportant. We 
 forcibly recalled what Captain Tholander said of 
 Stavanger, as we were approaching it in the early 
 part of our voyage : ' There is nothing to see, and I 
 shall give you plenty of time to see it in.' 
 
J2 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 On the way out of the harbor, we saw on our 
 right the famous Meridian Stone. 
 
 We sailed at noon, and for several hours experi- 
 enced cold, foggy, raw weather, which chilled us 
 to the bone ; but later we had the benefit of it in a 
 fresh layer of clean, beautiful snow, which covered 
 every peak and mountain - top about us. By eight 
 p. M. the weather cleared, so that on reaching 
 
 TROMSO, 
 
 at midnight, the sun was shining bright and clear. 
 We anchored in the middle of the fjord, opposite the 
 town, which is built up and back on the hill from the 
 water. As this will be our last sight of the Mid- 
 night Sun, — probably, in my case at least, forever, 
 we could not turn in. So, with a couple of the offi- 
 cers, five of us rowed ashore, where we strolled 
 about, through and above the town, climbing the 
 hill back of it, and getting fine views of the fjord 
 and islands, old Sol gloriously shedding his golden 
 light all the while. 
 
 At three in the morning we rowed back on board, 
 and turned in ; but, alas ! not to sleep. While I like 
 nothing better, and never sleep sounder than at sea, 
 
Tromso. 33 
 
 on the other hand there is nothing more disgustingly 
 uncomfortable than a night at anchor. All ventila- 
 tion is stopped, the staterooms are hot, every sound 
 and footstep is magnified in the quiet of rest and 
 stillness on board ; and every one who has been 
 to sea knows that the shovelling of coals, dumping 
 of ashes, pumping of water for washing down the 
 decks, and other sundry details of ships' keeping, need 
 no magnifying. 
 
 However, a good fresh bath at seven refreshed juiy 17. 
 and rested us, so that after breakfast we started out 
 in good trim for the Lapp and reindeer settlements 
 up the mountains. 
 
 V and I drove in state, with a pair of cour- 
 ageous little ponies, two native drivers, and a whole 
 retinue of men and children, Russian Finns, and 
 Lapps, of both sexes. We should have enjoyed the 
 drive, had we not been in such constant and immi- 
 nent danger of upsetting. For most of the distance 
 our drivers, by main strength, held up our sun- 
 down (!) as we rattled and slid sidewise up and down 
 the mountain-sides. 
 
 At last we reached the camp and our friends, who 
 had all preceded us on foot and horseback. They 
 
^^f. Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 were all having a photograph taken in the reindeer 
 enclosure. 
 
 We were disappointed in the size of the camp and 
 the scarcity of the Lapps ; but as we had been meet- 
 ing them occasionally for several days, and had 
 become pretty well accustomed to the dirty, filthy 
 creatures, it did not much matter. They are low of 
 stature, — in fact, dwarfed and stunted in appearance, 
 — and unclean beyond description. Their fur gar- 
 ments holding and even breeding vermin to such an 
 extent that one reluctantly walked about the grounds 
 occupied by them. Their earthen huts are even 
 worse than their persons ! A herd of about fifty 
 reindeer were noble in comparison with them, with 
 their wide-spreading antlers. The snapping- of the 
 knee-joints, without Baedeker's hint, we should have 
 supposed to be the rattling together of their long 
 hoofs. Despite their clumsiness, they are gracefully 
 formed. I would like to see a herd of them in their 
 native state dashing across a mountain ravine ! 
 
 After lunch B and I- make another trip to 
 
 town, and at four we weigh anchor for the South 
 again. 
 
 A few days more and we leave the good ship's 
 
Tromso. J5 
 
 company ; reluctantly enough we do it, too. Life 
 on an excursion like the present is very different 
 from the etiquette of an Atlantic steamer. We are 
 in the midst of the grand works of nature, and a 
 common feeling of irresistible enthusiasm and elation 
 at finally reaching a spot, for the first time, that has 
 always been a bright dream of a golden future, 
 awakens and develops rapidly a kindred feeling of 
 good-fellowship and camaraderie which seems to make 
 old and good friends in a few days' time, and which is 
 rapidly kindled by one common interest and the wel- 
 fare of the whole, by each individual. The ship 
 becomes a comfortable refuge and home. It is often 
 with a sigh of satisfaction and relief that we catch 
 sight of her quietly riding at anchor, after a weari- 
 some tramp and a tiresome side journey on shore. 
 The officers — yes, even the sailors of our crew — 
 are a welcome sight to us. 
 
 This morning when we woke we found we were juiy is. 
 away up the Rafsund, and amongst the 
 
 LAFOTEN ISLANDS. 
 
 The scenery is grand, the pointed rocks rising high 
 above and around us ; but we have become to a cer- 
 
^6 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 tain extent satiated with grandeur in Nature, and 
 the impressions were not what they would have been 
 earher in the voyage. At places we passed between 
 lofty walls scarcely wide enough for the steamer. In 
 its way, this is all quite different from the coast 
 scenery ; but it comes a bit too late for our fullest 
 enjoyment of it. It is a glorious day as we drift 
 slowly and lazily about, from one headland to an- 
 other, passing numerous fishing villages. 
 
 It is a most indolent way of sight-seeing, stretched 
 comfortably on our favorite perch in the forecastle 
 with our merry, congenial party about one, passing 
 through a slowly moving and double panorama of 
 magnificent scenery, in a mild, warm, bright sun- 
 shine ; gazing about from the deep blue water be- 
 neath us up to the hoary peaks and the snow-fields, 
 which no longer excite our enthusiasm. A lazy, 
 dreamy, delightful languor, which we know cannot 
 last, but to which knowledge we give no thought ; 
 happy and content, dreaming of the loved ones at 
 home; indolently comfortable, with as complete a 
 feeling of dolce far niente as ever the Southern lands 
 can give. 
 
 So passed a whole bright summer's day, with an 
 
Lofoten Islands. jy 
 
 extensive mirage for hundreds of miles along the 
 horizon toward evening, to which even we gave 
 but too scanty attention, accustomed as we have 
 become in these glorious weeks to the grand and 
 the wonderful. 
 
 A cold, misty, dreary day, which makes us more July 19. 
 reconciled to leave the ship. Impossible to keep 
 warm, or to remain on deck. The smoke-room 
 crowded. 
 
 Toward night, the Crown Prince of Sweden, with 
 his wife, on a Norwegian steamer with flags and 
 banners flying from every mast, overtake and pass us 
 in a narrow passage. They sail proudly, but care- 
 lessly, by. If we had not slowed down, there would 
 have been a collision. 
 
 At dinner, Captain made a most complimentary 
 speech, regretting our departure on the morrow. 
 Three rousing cheers were given, and all, rising, 
 joined in the chorus, "For they are jolly good fel- 
 lows," etc. It was a very pleasant occasion, and 
 only a repetition and another expression of the cour- 
 tesy and good-fellowship with which our countrymen 
 are received by their English cousins across the 
 water. 
 
j8 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 DRONTHEIM. 
 
 July 20. Our party of fourteen, all Americans, leave the ship 
 early, and start by train at eight a. m. for Stockholm. 
 Captain, officers, and many of the passengers accom- 
 pany us to the station, where they give us a good 
 send-off, — cheering as the train rolled out of the 
 building. 
 
 At the Swedish border we succeed in getting a 
 through special car, with staterooms and connect- 
 ing corridor. A jolly party we are! V has some 
 
 new joke at every station. At times he is inimitable, 
 with an inexhaustible fund of humor. The natives 
 will remember the passage of our car for many a day, 
 and the noisy mirth of its occupants. 
 
 July 21. Another day in the cars, travelling through Swe- 
 den. Miles and miles of birch and pine forests. 
 
 We lunched at Upsala. At the railway restaurants 
 in Scandinavia there are no waiters. Food is placed 
 on a large central table, from which travellers help 
 themselves, choosing, as their fancy dictates, from a 
 bounteous and well-cooked supply. Payment is made 
 at the door in passing out. A fixed price of so much 
 each, without reference to the quantity consumed or 
 the variety of selection. 
 
Droiitheim. jg 
 
 We had a good view of the University Building 
 and grounds, with its numerous branch colleges 
 scattered about over the village. Over all, towers 
 on a hill in the centre a large, ugly, but conspic- 
 uous, red-brick castle. We reached 
 
 STOCKHOLM 
 
 at four, having been thirty-two consecutive hours in 
 making a journey of not over five hundred miles ! 
 We spend the evening strolling and steaming in 
 small boats about the city in the long twilight, 
 dining on an open verandah in one of the numer- 
 ous concert gardens. How delicious that dinner 
 tasted after our weeks at sea, and how we did en- 
 joy it, listening to the strains of Mettra's 'La Rose,' 
 Auber, Meyerbeer, Rossini, Beethoven, Verdi, Wag- 
 ner, and Gounod ! 
 
 The city is composed of islands, connected by 
 bridges, lying between the Baltic and Lake Malaren. 
 At high tide the water is salt, from the sea ; at low 
 tide it is fresh, from the lake. Steam launches dart 
 swiftly about in every direction, taking the place of 
 coach and omnibus. In the gardens, standard rose- 
 bushes grow to the size of small trees, blossoming 
 
^ Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 profusely. The neatness and cleanliness of the 
 Swedes is everywhere noticeable, — in the streets, 
 buildings, cars and carriages ; on the quays and 
 boats. 
 
 We are all at the Grand Hotel, — a fine building, 
 centrally and beautifully located, facing the water. 
 It was from one of its balconies that Nilsson sang 
 years ago, when twenty-three persons lost their lives 
 in the crush in the square below. 
 
 We are already enchanted with the city, and can 
 readily understand why a lady at the hotel, who came 
 to spend a few days, has lingered for three weeks, 
 July »2-24. Three memorable days at Stockholm, in this gay- 
 est of all gay cities, Paris not excepted ! One's 
 recollections are of music everywhere ; of steaming 
 from one island to another in the swift little boats ; 
 of dining in summer gardens down by the very 
 water's edge, or on heights giving panoramic views 
 of sea and shore, with always a performance to watch 
 or music to listen to all the while. 
 
 Thanks to our letters of introduction to gentlemen 
 here, some one of whom has always been with us, to 
 their generous hospitality and kindly entertainment, 
 we have seen the city and its sights to the best 
 
Stockholm. 4^ 
 
 advantage, visited the best places at the best times, 
 and economized our moments in every way. 
 
 At this season of the year the short hours of the 
 night are like a long twilight, and it is the favorite 
 time for driving. We were taken entirely around 
 one of the larger islands one night, not starting until 
 after twelve, lunching at a charming little house by 
 the sea at one, and having a glorious sunrise, on our 
 way back, between two and three o'clock in the 
 morning. 
 
 The pleasant companionship of our large party 
 ends on the last of these three days, with a farewell 
 
 dinner-party at Hasselbacken, after which V , 
 
 B , and I leave by train for Copenhagen. I 
 
 shall return again for a few days ; but to most of us 
 beautiful Stockholm is another dream of the past. 
 How inadequate language is to describe such a city ; 
 and how impossible it is to put in words our enjoy- 
 ment of it ! 
 
 Travelling all night in a Swedish sleeping-car, July 25- 
 — the wide beds and fresh linen sheets of such scrup- 
 ulous neatness that it was a pleasure to occupy and 
 use them, — we arrived at Malmo, through the most 
 fertile and cultivated part of the peninsula that we 
 
^ Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 have seen, at eight a. m., and cross by boat to 
 
 COPENHAGEN, 
 
 arriving at Hotel d'Angleterre about half-past ten. 
 We immediately took carriages, and had a busy day, 
 driving about the city and environs, over broad 
 avenues, between rows of the dark, heavy foliage 
 of the beech-tree : a fertile, interesting country, 
 with picturesque windmills here and there, remind- 
 ing one not a little of Holland. 
 
 The citadel, surrounded by a moat, overhanging 
 which trees and bushes have been allowed to grow 
 in wild profusion, is open and free to all. Indeed, 
 a central passage-way through it seems to be used as 
 a public thoroughfare, both for walking and driving. 
 
 Outside and around the citadel, on the harbor side, 
 is the so-called Lange Linie, a broad promenade and 
 delightful resort, giving good, unobstructed views 
 out over the water. The Cattegat is to-day more 
 crowded with shipping than I have ever seen the 
 English Channel, and the port of Copenhagen is a 
 busy place, with its protecting squadron of grey 
 ironclads. 
 
 The architecture of some of the buildings is very 
 
Copenhagen. ^^ 
 
 quaint and curious. One church spire, apparently 
 of greenish bronze, has an external spiral staircase 
 coiling up about it to a globe on the top, on which 
 is a colossal human figure. The handsome fayade 
 of the low-domed opera-house is surmounted by a 
 spirited bronze group of 'Victory ' driving her chariot, 
 designed by Thorwaldsen. The whole city speaks 
 on every side of the great master : I never realized 
 before how great. In the Fruekirke are his colossal 
 figures of ' Christ ' (a copy of which we saw in Dron- 
 theim Cathedral) and the 'Twelve Apostles.' 
 
 The Thorwaldsen Museum is, of course, the main 
 object of interest. It is in the shape of a mausoleum, 
 on the exterior and interior walls of which are fres- 
 coes of events in the artist's life. It contains all his 
 creations, either originals, or duplicates in plaster. 
 His versatility was wonderful, and it is difficult to 
 believe that the same hand and brain that produced 
 the colossal equestrian statue of 'Maximilian I.,' at 
 Munich, or the 'Dying Lion of Lucerne,' fashioned 
 the exquisitely graceful and delicate reliefs of 'Day' 
 and 'Night' and the 'Ages of Love.' 
 
 Several rooms in the building contain part of his 
 furniture, library, pictures, and antiquarian collec- 
 
^ Scandmavia and Russia. 
 
 tions. The paintings are not worthy of mention, but 
 the scarabse, coins, and Etruscan pottery are most 
 interesting and valuable. 
 
 The museum is built about a hollow square, or 
 quadrangle, in the centre of which is his grave, sim- 
 ply marked by a bed of dark green ivy. It is the 
 only color or life to break the simplicity of the enclo- 
 sure of walls and pavement. But no headstone is 
 necessary : his noble monument is all about him, and 
 his living marble figures speak for him. 
 
 Unfortunately, many of the artisans at Copen- 
 hagen, taking advantage of the fame and reputation 
 of their great sculptor's works, and of the avidity 
 with which many travellers will buy, as souvenirs, 
 cheap reproductions, have filled every shop-window, 
 hotel, and restaurant in the city with terra cotta and 
 Parian cupids, graces, dying lions, etc., with a sur- 
 feiting profusion. 
 
 I leave at 6.30 p. m. by return boat for Malmo and 
 Sweden. As I now write in the smoke-room of the 
 little steamer, the panorama of the Zealand coast is 
 rapidly fading away in the golden halo of the setting 
 
 sun. V and B I have left behind. They 
 
 start in the morning for Paris, and I am alone for 
 
Copenhagen. ^5 
 
 the first time since leaving New York. As I think 
 of it, and of all the busy, jolly, happy, enjoyable 
 days we have had together, it is difficult to overcome 
 my lonely feelings. But Russia and Moscow lie 
 before me ! 
 
 A tiresome all-night ride by rail (changing cars at juiy 26. 
 three o'clock in the morning), without being able to 
 get much rest or sleep, made a quiet day at 
 
 GOTHENBURG 
 
 very welcome. In the afternoon I very unexpect- 
 edly met a party of friends. We drove in the 
 environs for a couple of hours, and then dined to- 
 gether at the Horticultural Gardens. At ten in the 
 evening I left on the little canal steamer Baltsar 
 Von Platen. 
 
 THE GOTHA CANAL. 
 
 Had an early tramp, before breakfast, to see the juiy 27. 
 Trolhatta Falls, of such great renown in Sweden. 
 They are simply a turbulent, mad rush of waters, in 
 whirlpools and rapids, down through a rocky gorge, 
 — picturesque, but scarcely worth a special trip. As 
 is often the custom on these boats, we had taken 
 advantage of the time consumed in passing through 
 
^6 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 a series of locks to make a side excursion on shore. 
 We easily stepped on board again at the little town 
 of Trolhatta, where we had arranged with our cap- 
 tain to meet. Each lock is 105 feet long, and raises 
 or lowers about ten feet every time it is opened or 
 closed. The craft that pass through cannot measure 
 over 103 feet. Fancy making a trip across lakes and 
 country, from Gothenburg to Stockholm, in such 
 a little tub ! And yet, we were surprisingly comfort- 
 able. We crossed Lake Venern, ninety miles long, 
 and, towards evening, again entered the canal and 
 began lock-work. It was a curious sensation to sit 
 on the upper deck of a steamer, and feel the soft, 
 easy motion of the propeller under one's feet, while 
 looking out immediately on wilderness or farm. At 
 times the canal lay through a dense forest, cutting 
 its way, straight as a die, between the trees for miles 
 and miles. As the boat nearly filled the width of the 
 canal, and the trees grew to its very edge, there was 
 no water to be seen, and the delusion was complete. 
 
 As the boat was behind time, and I wanted to 
 catch the night train at Toreboda, there was no 
 help for it but to take a horse and wagon at one 
 o'clock in the morning, and drive for an hour across 
 
The Gotha Canal. /f^ 
 
 country in the dark, with a total stranger, who could 
 not speak a word of English : a thing I should hesi- 
 tate to do in many countries, of which honest Swe- 
 den is not one. 
 
 STOCKHOLM. 
 
 Spent the forenoon in arranging my passage on juiy 28. 
 the Swedish steamer Finland, for St. Petersburg via 
 Finland. The proper vise of one's passport by the 
 Russian consul is the first and most absolutely neces- 
 sary step, for without it one cannot even purchase a 
 ticket on any boat sailing for Russia. It is given 
 up to the agents upon payment of the fare, handed 
 by them to the captain, who returns it, after a second 
 vise by Finnish officials, en route. Here again my 
 letters of introduction in Stockholm became useful 
 for the purpose of identification before the consul. 
 As a souvenir of a trip to Russia, — what with the 
 endorsements of permission to enter, to reside in 
 each of the cities visited, and finally to leave the 
 country, — one's passport, with the various official 
 stamps and signatures, becomes the most curious 
 that one can have. 
 
 After all of this red tape had been satisfactorily 
 attended to, I gained admission to the Historical 
 
^f8 Scandinavia and Russia, 
 
 Museum of Stockholm. Baedeker does well to mark 
 it with two stars. It is the most instructive and 
 interesting collection it has ever been my good fort- 
 une to examine. The Flint and Bronze Periods, 
 and the Iron Age, are all chronologically arranged. 
 There is also a Mediaeval room, and a large assort- 
 ment of coins. 
 
 With a professor of the building constantly ex- 
 plaining, I spent two interesting hours in the various 
 rooms, beginning with the Flint Period, before metals 
 were known, carefully examining a very large and 
 excellent collection of stone implements and flint 
 weapons. It was most fascinating and instructive 
 to follow the development from the rude stone ham- 
 mers of prehistoric times to the gradual introduction 
 of the metals ; then, as civilization advanced and 
 luxuries were indulged in, bronze ornaments and 
 adornments were seen : at first rude and clumsy, 
 then of finer workmanship, till rings and horse trap- 
 pings began to appear, and finally gold and precious 
 stones, mosaic work, cloisonne, and so on down to 
 wood carvings, paintings, etc., and the minute 
 perfection of modern times. 
 
 In the afternoon I went out over Lake Malaren, 
 
Stockholm. afg 
 
 with its twelve hundred islands, to Drottingsholm, 
 one of the royal villas. The lake is so cut up 
 and filled with bits of wooded land, that it has 
 the appearance of a succession of bays and inlets, 
 which convey no impression of a continuous sheet 
 of water. 
 
 In the evening, went for one more round of the 
 concert gardens, dining at Mosebacken, to enjoy the 
 panorama of city and water once more. Ah, how 
 I do regret leaving this queen of cities ! Life here 
 is all a dream of pleasure, with music at every 
 turn. 
 
 The best band is Steiner's Hungarian (Buda-Pesth), 
 composed of about thirty boys, from nine to eighteen 
 years of age. The Kapellmeisters' control is per- 
 fect ; their playing is most inspiriting. I have rarely 
 heard such rendering of all kinds of music. 
 
 Stockholm is a paradise for the telephone. There 
 are two companies, one of them with over six thou- 
 sand subscribers. Every house and shop has them 
 both, even to the small, corner retailers. Many of 
 the boats have them in their officers' room ; as soon 
 as they arrive at their berth, connection is made 
 over the side of the ship with the system. In shop- 
 
50 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 ping, if a stranger cannot understand a shopkeeper, 
 all he has to do is to call up his hotel-porter, and 
 make his bargain through him by telephone. The 
 numerous wires are very small and fine. They are 
 no obstruction to the roofs, or in case of fire, as they 
 are carried high in the air, over huge structures, 
 which are in themselves objects of curiosity to the 
 stranger. 
 
 Prices are most reasonable, and the cost of living 
 very low : a ride in the street cars entirely around 
 the city for two and a half cents ; an hour's ride by 
 steamer over the lake for twenty-five cents ; my 
 room at the Grand Hotel, as fine a building as most 
 of the larger hotels in Paris, and delightfully located, 
 for eighty-seven and a half cents a day ; a dinner, 
 with French cooking, of six courses, at the best 
 restaurant, for thirty-seven and a half cents, and 
 everything in this same proportion. 
 
 We sail at midnight. The city, with its countless 
 lights over water and hill, fades gradually away in 
 the moonlight ; but the memories of beautiful Stock- 
 holm are ours forever more ; and like the drink at 
 the Fountain of Trevi in Rome, once indulged in, 
 one is sometime sure to return. 
 
Stockholm. ^I 
 
 Crossing the Gulfs of Bothnia and Finland, in a juiy 29. 
 crowded steamer, with poor accommodations and 
 wretched food. At three p. m. we reach 
 
 ABO, 
 
 in Finland, and for the first time see the striped red, 
 white, and blue flag waving over Russian soil. We 
 moor alongside the hot, noisy pier, and submit to 
 the customs' examination of our luggage (although 
 none of it is taken ashore), and have our passports 
 examined and endorsed by the police. The waiting 
 hours are only relieved by a visit to the prison, — 
 an interesting, but certainly not a very cheering, 
 experience. We were taken through many different 
 rooms and workshops, where prisoners were busily en- 
 gaged at their various trades. Everywhere through- 
 out the building, upon our approach, they rose and 
 remained standing while in our presence. We peeped 
 at those in solitary confinement, through small eye- 
 holes in the doors. They all seemed brutish animals ; 
 showing, with but one exception, no sign of intel- 
 ligence. This one stared at us through a pair of 
 large glasses with his whole soul. His black eyes 
 haunt me still ! 
 
5-2 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 HELSINGFORS. 
 
 July 30. Visited the Russian (Greek) Church, under whose 
 lofty dome we first saw the Icon, with which we soon 
 became so famihar in the weeks that followed. It 
 is a very tall altar-screen, in many cases extending 
 quite up into the dome, of finest gold gilding, with 
 panelled rows, one above another, of paintings of 
 various saints, patrons, and royal personages. In 
 marked contrast to all this display of gold, marble, 
 and color, was the interior of the Lutheran Cathe- 
 dral, — ^^ plain even to bareness, with no ornamentation 
 whatever to break the stern, almost forbidding, as- 
 pect of the walls and ceiling. 
 
 A comfortable dinner in a garden restaurant, with 
 a long walk through the grounds afterward, occupied 
 the afternoon until our ship sailed. We then had 
 two delightful hours on deck : the blue and gold 
 towers and minarets of the principal buildings giving 
 us our first taste of Russian architecture, while we 
 sat listening, until far out to sea, to the sweet 
 music of the bronze and silver bells ringing in an- 
 swering cadences from every tower and church in 
 the town. 
 
 The fortifications on all the shore and islands, 
 
Helsingfors. 5J 
 
 which even at this distance from the capital begin 
 to defend the approach to its port, are most extensive 
 and mysterious. 
 
 At sunset we saw what in the darkness of a cold 
 winter's night in this latitude I should describe as 
 an aurora borealis : great pencils or shafts of light 
 and shadow radiating from the sun over one-half of 
 the heavens, spreading out in an immense fan shape, 
 like the spread of a peacock's tail. 
 
 WIBORG. 
 
 This is the nearest port to the great Finnish Falls, juiyji. 
 which a Russian gentleman on board soberly assured 
 us were, next to Niagara, the largest and grandest 
 in the world. We did not visit them, notwithstand- 
 ing this tempting (!) statement, but took advantage 
 of our early arrival to breakfast on shore. The cool, 
 quiet room of a restaurant, pleasantly situated on a 
 hill-top, was delicious and enjoyable after the crush 
 and scrambling for food in the noisy saloon of our 
 steamer. We enjoyed our good coffee, omelet, and 
 strawberries all the more when thinking of the pork 
 chops we had left behind. 
 
 Sailed again at eleven, and now we are really off 
 
5-^ Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 for Russia, where we shall drink the famous caravan 
 tea, — the first we have ever tasted that has not 
 crossed an ocean. 
 
 Passed an arm of the gulf at noon, which, to our 
 surprise, contained some twenty or more Russian 
 men-of-war and torpedo boats. Two or three of them 
 were of immense size, and all swarming with 'navvies.' 
 As we approach St. Petersburg, our respect for the 
 Empire of the North grows with every league we 
 travel. 
 
 Cronstadt comes into sight about six p.m., bristling 
 with guns. Batteries and earthworks on every island, 
 and on either shore, form a circle of defense about 
 the mouth of the Neva. The masts of men-of-war, 
 ironclads, torpedo boats, and training-ships, through 
 which we pass, seem like a forest. 
 
 From Cronstadt up the river, through breakwaters 
 on either side forming a broad canal in the middle 
 of the stream, one spire after another appears gleam- 
 ing in the sunlight. First of all, the grand dome of 
 St. Isaac's Cathedral ; then the needle-like golden 
 shaft of the Admiralty Building ; and, most beautiful 
 of all, the blue central dome, with its four satellites, 
 of the Church of the Trinity, glittering with golden 
 
Wiborg. ^^ 
 
 stars. We passed Peterhof, with its Summer Palaces, 
 and arrived at 
 
 ST. PETERSBURG 
 
 about eight in the evening. The long-dreaded cus- 
 toms' examination proved, as I have always elsewhere 
 found it to be, a mere matter of form. The search- 
 ing and severe examination and confiscation by the 
 Russian government officials had been so exagger- 
 ated, in all the accounts that I had read and been 
 told of, that before leaving Sweden I had seriously 
 thought of sending my photographs, books, and cu- 
 rios home by express. The only severity I experi- 
 enced was in having my luggage overhauled twice. 
 This was due to the very short memory of the man 
 assigned to me. His Sunday libations (the vice of 
 all the lower classes in Russia) had been too often 
 repeated during the day, fortunately for me ; for it 
 was the cause of teaching me, on first landing, the 
 useful and most important secret of comfort in get- 
 ting about, and avoidance of difficulties with officials 
 in this country ; namely, to yield to all their de- 
 mands, however unreasonable or unjust : a lesson 
 which I remembered, and which was exceedingly val- 
 uable on a later occasion. In the present instance, 
 
5^ Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 when I began to remonstrate and attempt to explain 
 that my trunks had but just been examined and were 
 already labelled, the quiet and timely hint of a cour- 
 teous hotel interpreter, to let the man have his own 
 way and all would be well, without any doubt saved 
 some of my books at least from the confiscation I 
 had feared. 
 
 On the other hand, the examination and scrutiny 
 of one's passport is most careful and thorough. 
 No bribing, yielding, or hope of leniency in this 
 matter will be of any avail to the unfortunate 
 traveller whose credentials are not perfect, and ab- 
 solutely in conformity with the law in every respect. 
 Within two years, our captain told us, one of his 
 passengers who had neglected a trifling requirement 
 had not been allowed to land, and had been obliged 
 to spend the whole ten days of the ship's stay at St. 
 Petersburg on board ; sailing away with him on his 
 return trip, without ever having set foot in the city, 
 in the very midst of which he lay moored, and which 
 he had travelled fifteen hundred miles to see. 
 
 Later, when preparing to leave, in order to save 
 time I had my vise pour Vetranger done at Moscow. 
 At St. Petersburg, where this vise is usually obtained 
 
St. Petersburg. 57 
 
 when leaving from that port, it is customary to re- 
 ceive a duplicate, on a separate piece of paper, which 
 is kept by the examining official who boards all ships 
 at Cronstadt, on their way out of the harbor. This 
 duplicate I did not have, and was promptly informed 
 that I could not leave the country ; but must return 
 with them to the city, with all my belongings. As 
 there was not another sailing for England for a week, 
 my connection with the Atlantic steamer on which 
 I had arranged to leave for home depended entirely 
 on my getting away without delay ; and I put the 
 case so strongly to him that at last, with great con- 
 descension, he unwillingly agreed to send ashore for 
 higher authority. For one hour my fate hung in the 
 balance, while our captain fretted and fumed at the 
 delay. At last * his highness ' arrived in a govern- 
 ment launch with flying colors and uniformed crew, 
 listened to my explanation (how devoutly I blessed 
 my old tutor for drilling the French verbs into my 
 dull brains !), critically examined the vise, and in a 
 dignified manner directed his subalterns to make 
 a copy ; and the fiat came forth, at last, that I 
 could depart. 
 
 All this digression is simply to impress upon any 
 
^8 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 one of my readers, who may contemplate a journey 
 to Russia, the absolute importance and necessity 
 of obtaining full and complete information of pass- 
 port requirements, and to rigidly attend to the 
 carrying out and careful execution of the same. 
 
 After getting our luggage from the quay, F 
 
 and I drove to Hotel de I'Europe, on the Newski 
 Prospect. We engaged our rooms, then at once 
 took a droski for the Zoological Gardens, — a sum- 
 mer resort on one of the islands on the northern 
 side of the river, — where we had dinner, watched 
 a ballet (Last Days of Pompeii), went to the theatre, 
 and stared at the crowd. The droski is a most ab- 
 surd little vehicle, without rail or protection about 
 the seat ; and there is constant danger, as one is 
 being driven along at a speed of ten or twelve miles 
 an hour, of being thrown out into the street. The 
 drivers have long coats, with flowing skirts, belted 
 in at the waist, and a most curiously shaped, little, 
 low-crowned, stiff hat. 
 
 The Neva is a broad, rapid stream, averaging 
 nearly half a mile in width. The Troitzki Bridge, 
 which crosses it from the Summer Gardens, is of 
 wood, resting on pontoons, which are taken up in 
 
St. Petersburg. 59 
 
 winter. We were four minutes in driving rapidly 
 and nine minutes in walking across. Like every- 
 thing else in the capital, its size is its extraordinary 
 feature. The vast, sweeping views from it, in either 
 direction, and on both sides of the river, of quays, 
 buildings, facades, spires, domes, and towers, are 
 unparalleled. St. Petersburg is truly an imperial 
 city ! To quote again from Baedeker, * The expen- 
 diture of space is magnificent ' ! No idea of the 
 size and extent of the buildings, squares, streets, 
 and bridges can be given ; for there is nothing in 
 the world to compare them with. The architecture 
 is neither technically fine nor attractive ; but one 
 marvels at measurements and acreage. I will give 
 but one example, the Winter Palace, whose walls are 
 450 by 350 feet. It is a long walk across Alexander 
 Square from it to the Triumphal Arch ; while the 
 length of these and the surrounding frontages, when 
 first seen, arrest one's steps, and one stares in 
 amazement. 
 
 By the Julian calendar we have lost twelve days ; juiy 20, 
 consequently, while in the Russian Empire we must ^^"^" ''^ 
 use a double date. Three hours to-day in the Her- 
 mitage, amongst paintings, statuary, and antiquities. 
 
6o Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 The galleries are rich in paintings, and many chefs 
 d'ceuvres are here found which one misses in the 
 collections of old masters in Paris, Dresden, and 
 Central Europe : notably a superb collection of 
 Murillo's sacred subjects ; Rembrandt's ' Sacrifice of 
 Abraham' and 'Descent from the Cross;' Titian's 
 
 * Danae ' and * Toilette de Venus ; ' Quentin Metsy's 
 
 * Misers ; ' Gerard Dow's ' Own Portrait ; ' the fin- 
 est set of Snyder's game pictures that I know of ; 
 many old Dutch paintings, appropriately framed in 
 flat black wood. The sculptures are unimportant. 
 The Hermitage Venus is in perfect preservation, 
 but sadly disappointing. Even in this brief and 
 totally inadequate hint of a few of the best known 
 and most celebrated works of The Hermitage, I can- 
 not omit to mention the Kertch collection, with its 
 
 superb gold, silver, and bronze ornaments. F , 
 
 an Oxford graduate and professor, who has made the 
 study of classics the business of his life, pronounces 
 it the finest and most interesting collection of its 
 kind he has yet met with. His whole day has been 
 spent in it. 
 
 The entrance to the Hermitage is unique. Ten 
 colossal human figures, of dark marble, support the 
 
St. Petersburg. 6l 
 
 porte-cochere, and form a most imposing approach. 
 Passing inside the doors, the staircase and two- 
 storied entrance hall take away one's breath in ad- 
 miring wonder ! At the second story, on either side 
 of the stairway, rows of huge, dark granite columns 
 support the lofty roof. The effect of distance, of 
 size, of lofty ceiling and enclosed space, is grand and 
 imposing in the extreme. In the corridor, at the 
 top of this flight of steps, fabulous tables, huge 
 vases, candelabra and urns of malachite and of lapis 
 lazuli, dazzle one. It all reminded me very forcibly 
 of a conversation I once heard in a cosmopolitan 
 hotel in Italy. An American had just bought a 
 small malachite ring, with which he was immensely 
 pleased ; showing it to all about, and expecting the 
 customary admiration, which almost every one ex- 
 pressed. One man, a Russian, said not a word. 
 Pressed by the American to take some notice of it, 
 he finally said : * Yes, very pretty, very pretty. I 
 have a mantel - piece of the same at home ' ! I 
 thought him a brute at the time ; I do not now. The 
 stone was as common a sight to him as the finer 
 grades of polished marbles with which we decorate 
 our best buildings are to us. 
 
62 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 One room of The Hermitage contains a wax figure 
 of Peter the Great, many of his tools, lathes, desks, 
 canes, a wagon, and, under a glass case, his favorite 
 horse and dogs, stuffed for preservation. 
 
 In the afternoon and evening we drove, making 
 the Tour des Isles, stopping at the Round Point to 
 see the celebrated view of the sunset out over the 
 waters of the Gulf. These islands form pleasant 
 and fashionable suburbs, with numerous charming 
 summer residences nestling amongst the trees, close 
 by the water ; looking very inviting with their open, 
 furnished verandahs and surrounding grounds. Fin- 
 ished the evening at the Aquarium Gardens ; 
 again walking home across the wooden bridge and 
 down the promenade by the Neva, in front of the 
 Public Buildings. What a panorama ! the distant 
 and interminable rows of light on quay and bridge, 
 the rapid river, the long fagades, the golden domes, 
 towers, and thin, needle-like spires ; above all, the 
 brilliant full moon. We can imagine the scene in 
 winter ! one great frozen sea of ice and snow, 
 covered with skaters circling about ; the sleighs 
 with their furs and gay trappings ; the life, the 
 activity, and the splendor of it all ! 
 
St Petersburg. 6g 
 
 A day in churches, beginning with that of Kasan July 21, 
 on the Newski Prospect, with its massive silver "^' ^ 
 ornamentation, its Virgin with a diamond crown, 
 and its semi-circular arcades in ridiculous imitation 
 of St. Peter's. 
 
 The wealth and magnificence of St. Isaac's Cathe- 
 dral is peculiar to itself. Ten large columns of fluted 
 malachite, thirty feet high, with two of lapis lazuli 
 in the centre, support and divide the choir and 
 altar from the nave ! Numberless huge monoliths 
 of polished Finnish granite, at least six feet in 
 diameter, support the outside porticoes on each 
 side, with steps and pavement of the same material. 
 The capitals, bases, and pedestals of all these columns, 
 both inside and outside of the structure, and the 
 huge exterior circular railing around the base of the 
 upper dome, are all of bronze. The entrance doors 
 and the greater part of the ceilings, which are adorned 
 with colossal figures in high relief, are also of bronze ; 
 together with the delicate open-work screen altar- 
 doors, which are fire gilded. Immense mosaics of 
 saints and apostles adorn the walls ; and a colossal 
 copy of the 'Last Supper,' also in mosaic, is now 
 being placed above the altar doors. A stained 
 
6^ Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 window behind the altar, representing a figure of 
 the Saviour, must be at least fifty feet high. Num- 
 berless swinging candelabra, of massive silver, hang 
 before shrines in various parts of the cathedral, of 
 a size to correspond with the vast interior. There 
 are several Bible covers and shrine screens, thirty 
 to forty inches square, of gold, adorned with num- 
 berless rubies, amethysts, diamonds, and other pre- 
 cious stones. In the altar, behind the screen, is a 
 reproduction in detail of the building, about three 
 feet square, of gold. This is a bare statement of a 
 part of the treasures and adornments of this great 
 structure, the effects of which are enhanced tenfold 
 by their position and combinations. In its way, it 
 is as imposing as St. Peter's or Milan Cathedral. 
 There is not that detail of finish, the lines of archi- 
 tectural and sculptural beauty, to dazzle the eye; 
 but a colossal and massive impressiveness of wall 
 and column that remind one of the Baalbec and 
 Egyptian structures, together with a lavish costli- 
 ness of material which only the mines and quarries 
 of Siberia and Finland can supply. 
 
 We climbed to the top, and were well repaid with 
 a comprehensive — in fact, the only good — view of 
 
St. Petersburg. 6^ 
 
 St. Petersburg, the Neva, islands, suburbs, and har- 
 bor that can be had. 
 
 The cottage once occupied by Peter the Great is 
 protected by a building constructed over and about 
 it. It contains desks and furniture, together with 
 the famous boat (the grandfather of the Russian 
 navy), all made by the great Emperor's own hands. 
 The house is now used as a shrine. We found it 
 filled with devout people who bowed their foreheads 
 to the very pavement in the sincerity of their wor- 
 ship. This we have noticed to be an universal cus- 
 tom amongst the natives at prayer, reminding one of 
 the Eastern prostration. 
 
 The church of SS. Peter and Paul, in the Old 
 Arsenal, is the Pantheon of Russia. It contains the 
 remains of all the Imperial Family since the days of 
 Peter the Great. Plain, simple, white marble sarco- 
 phagi, in different parts of the church, enclosed by 
 railings, and marked only with bronze tablets. Bat- 
 tle flags are arranged about the columns of the 
 structure, which is guarded by soldiers. 
 
 We saw a capital representation of the ' Mikado,' 
 in Russian, at the Livardia Garden Theatre. During 
 the summer months, in Russia, these numerous gar- 
 
66 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 dens are the favorite resort after the heat of the 
 day. They are attractively laid out, with extensive 
 grounds, band-stand, open-air stage, restaurant, and 
 theatre. Numerous small tables and chairs, with 
 waiters in attendance, are scattered about every- 
 where, in front of the various performances and 
 under the trees. The play in the theatre, for which 
 an additional admission is charged, continues through 
 the evening, with numerous long entractes, during 
 which the entire audience leave the building to stroll 
 about the grounds, take refreshments or drink, listen 
 to the band, or watch the smaller side performances, 
 until the ringing of a bell notifies them to return 
 again to the theatre for another act. 
 
 From the performance of the ' Mikado,' we returned 
 to the English Quay, at midnight, by one of the ex- 
 press boats on the Neva, going around the islands 
 in the moonlight. We never can cross the river 
 without outspoken admiration of the magnificent, 
 sweeping panorama, each time discovering some new 
 feature. One can watch the driving and the pedes- 
 trians on quays and bridges for hours, 
 July 22, This is the f^te day of the Empress. Attended 
 
 (Aug. 3.) service in the morning at Smolna Cathedral, which 
 
St. Petersburg. 6'J 
 
 is surrounded by immense cloisters. The services 
 were conducted with great pomp by Monseigneur 
 Isidor, the Metropolitain (head of the Greek Church 
 at St. Petersburg), assisted by the Archbishop 
 and other high church dignitaries, whose robes 
 of gold thread and gold lace were most sumptuous. 
 The daughters of the nobility are educated here. 
 They were all present in their different convent cos- 
 tumes, with their teachers and attendants ; many of 
 the older governesses wore decorations. 
 
 As the venerable Metropolitain came out, after the 
 services, to his white satin-lined coach, which was 
 drawn by four black stallions, with postillions and 
 footmen, a vast crowd assembled near the steps, wait- 
 ing to kiss his hand and receive his benediction. He, 
 submitting to it all with the utmost patience, was 
 fully ten minutes in getting down to his carriage, 
 assisted most obsequiously by noblemen and officers, 
 as eagerly soliciting his blessing as the poorest beg- 
 gars, and whose flashing orders, gold embroidered 
 uniforms, and uncovered heads, were in strange and 
 striking contrast to their usual haughty demeanor. 
 
 In the afternoon F- and I took the steamer for 
 
 Peterhof to see the illumination in the park in honor 
 
68 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 of the Czarina, — standing a mortal hour in the file, 
 under a hot sun, waiting our turn to embark ; the 
 same thing having to be gone through with on the 
 long wooden pier when we came back. 
 
 The full description of the illuminations, the crowd, 
 the superb horses and liveries, the nobility, and all 
 that we saw during the night (we reached St. Peters- 
 burg and our hotel at three a. m,), would be simply 
 impossible : the fountains, the long drives through 
 the woods of the park, the Summer Palace, parterres, 
 and moat, the trees, — everything and everywhere 
 for about five miles one vast blaze of colored lights. 
 Imagine a new firmament, or read the Arabian 
 Nights tales ! The number of lights must have 
 been in the millions. I counted four thousand on 
 eight screens about one fountain, ajid this was to 
 the illumination what one drop of water would 
 be to a river. It was a marvelously beautiful sight, 
 and in its way one of the most interesting we saw 
 in Russia ; showing so strikingly the power and 
 control in an absolute monarchy of the emperor 
 over his resources and subjects, when able to spend 
 such a sum of money and such an inconceivable 
 amount of labor on the mere pleasure and amuse- 
 
St. Petersburg. 6g 
 
 ment of a single evening. One of the most striking 
 features was a summer-house, with marble bust of 
 the Czar and Czarina on either side, in the middle 
 of a small lake, one blaze of light. It appeared like 
 a huge fairy crown, created for the moment by a 
 magician's wand : so airy, so light, so ethereal, that 
 it seemed impossible to think of it as the work of 
 human hands. 
 
 The Summer Palace — a long, low, rather rococo 
 building, with pavilions at either end, surmounted 
 with golden minarets and domes — is situated on an 
 elevation, similar in location to Sans Souci at Pots- 
 dam. From the parterre in front of it a huge foun- 
 tain staircase, adorned with gilded statuary (copies 
 of antiques : Perseus, Meleager, Hercules, Discoboli ; 
 Venus of Milo, Medici, etc.), descends to the level 
 of the park, with wide stairways for ascending 
 and descending on either side. From its foot, a 
 canal, or moat, crossed by numerous ornamental 
 bridges, extends through thick woods, out to the 
 gulf. Hundreds of fountains, throwing huge jets of 
 water and spray in all directions, — running and fall- 
 ing in miniature water-falls over the numerous steps 
 and amongst the golden statuary to the moat at 
 
yo Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 the bottom, — ^were illuminated by throwing different 
 colored lights on the moving, flowing mass : whilst 
 the fagade of the palace, the steps, the statuary, the 
 parterre, the canal, the bridges, the trees on either 
 side, and away out on the gulf the ships and boats, 
 were all covered with millions of red and green and 
 blue and yellow, and every-colored lights ; in great 
 groups of one color in places, in others mixed or 
 graduated, — apparently as countless and unnum- 
 bered as the stars in the heavens. 
 
 All this was but one small part of the general 
 illumination, which extended on this same scale for 
 several miles. It all seemed like one vast, beautiful 
 dream of fairyland. 
 
 The Czar and Czarina, followed by the whole Im- 
 perial household, drove about the grounds all the 
 evening. The Czarina's carriage was drawn by eight 
 dappled grey stallions, with postilions and outriders. 
 He sat silent and glum, most of the time smoking 
 a cigarette. She was queenly and beautiful, dressed 
 all in white, bowing gracefully, and sweetly smiling 
 to all. They passed us frequently during the even- 
 ing. There was no guard, — not a soldier about or 
 near them. Any one in the vast throngs — and there 
 
Sf. Petersburg. J I 
 
 must have been hundreds of thousands, of all ages, 
 sex, and conditions — could at any time during the 
 evening have approached to the very carriage wheels : 
 rather of a contradiction to the absurd newspaper 
 reports one reads of the Emperor's secluded, guarded 
 life, and his fears of Nihilistic attempts. The enthu- 
 siasm was intense. We could always judge of his 
 whereabouts by the shouts and vivas that filled the 
 air. A great wave of sound followed him wherever 
 he drove. 
 
 The Summer Garden, opposite the vast bare juiyis. 
 Champs de Mars, is a large park, with dense shade- ^^"^' *'^ 
 trees, which form a cool, quiet retired spot in the 
 heart of the city. Numerous rude, coarse marble 
 statues ornament (!*) the central walk at one end, 
 near which are a fine railing, entrance gate, and 
 commemorative chapel. 
 
 The Gostinnoe Dvor, a vast bazaar, occupies the 
 entire space between four streets, opposite our hotel. 
 I had read of this place from the time of my boyish 
 days, and had always been curious to see it. It was 
 different in every way from what I expected to see : 
 simply a collection of shops for the sale of modern 
 foreign wares, chiefly clothing and dress goods, with 
 
^2 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 wholesale stores above. One walks under arcades 
 about the entire structure and on both stories, out- 
 side on the street fagades, and inside about a central 
 square. 
 
 After dinner F and I took another drive 
 
 around the islands. It is a pleasant, restful way of 
 passing a few hours, in a comfortable carriage, — with 
 thick rubber tires to break the noise, shock, and jar 
 of the pavements, — behind a pair of black stallions, 
 bowling along at a rate of ten or twelve miles an 
 hour. 
 
 There is a curious custom at night in St. Peters- 
 burg of porters (' watch-dogs ' we called them) on all 
 doorsteps and entrances of hotels, palaces, and the 
 better class of houses, where they lie curled up in 
 their great fur coats. No matter how soundly they 
 sleep, no one can approach or enter without their 
 springing up and opening the door. 
 
 All servants, porters, help, and attaches always 
 rise on one's approach, standing in a respectful and 
 submissive attitude while one is walking by them. 
 
 Our permits have at last arrived from the Minis- 
 ters for entrance to the Winter Palace ; so that, if 
 we can get our passport in time from the police, we 
 
^ 
 
 St. Petersburg. yj 
 
 shall leave to-morrow night for Moscow. A serious 
 business this passport vis^ in Russia. They have one 
 completely at their mercy, and it is fully as hard to 
 get away as to enter the country. The river all the 
 way up at night is patrolled by police boats, burning 
 red lights, which must be signalled by passing craft 
 of every description. 
 
 In regard to language, we find German and French 
 universally spoken by people with any education, — 
 especially the former. The only trouble is with the 
 droski drivers, who speak only Russian. As there 
 is no tariff of fares, and the alphabetical characters 
 are such that no foreigner can make them out or 
 write them, it is rather difficult to drive a bargain, 
 or to indicate where one wishes to be taken. 
 
 Spent two hours in the Winter Palace to-day. A juiy24, 
 fairly comfortable building, noticeable chiefly for the 
 vast number and extent of its rooms, corridors, and 
 staircases, with pleasant views out over the river 
 from various balconies. In the different halls and 
 rooms we were shown a large collection of paintings 
 of all the chief battles in which Russia has ever 
 taken part ; also, portraits of all the emperors and 
 celebrated Russian generals and men. One room 
 
 (Aug. 5.) 
 
y^f. Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 is finished and furnished entirely with malachite ; 
 mantelpiece, tables, standing candelabra, an immense 
 ornamental vase, and all around the four walls large 
 supporting columns of the same. In others the fur- 
 niture was of the most ordinary description, with 
 evidences of rococo and imitation lapis lazuli and 
 marbles in many places. The Throne Room, rather 
 gaudily decorated with gold, contained a picture said 
 to be a Raphael, — ' The Resurrection.' 
 July 25, Arrived early at the curious old Eastern town of 
 
 (Aug. 6.) 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 A wet, rainy day. The streets, which are badly 
 paved, are filthy with mud and running water. This 
 is the first day since leaving home that the weather 
 has interfered with our sight-seeing. The drainage 
 is very poor, the smells are sickening, the droskies 
 are detestable. We sadly miss the broad, imperial 
 thoroughfares and swiftly running vehicles of St. 
 Petersburg. A greater contrast than between the 
 two cities can scarcely be imagined. Moscow is 
 unlike anything that we have ever seen. The archi- 
 tecture on all sides is most bizarre and interesting. 
 The buildings and walls of the Kremlin, the towers 
 
Moscow. 75 
 
 and onion-shaped domes, of which there are hundreds 
 to be seen in any direction one may look, are glaring 
 with gold and flaming colors. The Moskowa River 
 winds through the city past one side of the Kremlin 
 wall, adding to the picturesqueness, the filthiness, 
 and the odors of the place. 
 
 The people are devotional even to idolatry. In 
 a small chapel, by one of the entrance gates to 
 the Kremlin, is a curious figure of the Virgin, black- 
 ened with age ; except the face, feet, and hands, it 
 is covered with gold and adorned with precious 
 stones. It is supposed to be endowed with extra- 
 ordinary powers of healing and forgiveness. All 
 day long the crowd of passers-by enter to prostrate 
 themselves to the very ground in front of it, kissing 
 devoutly and reverently the hands and feet of the 
 figure. This is the famous Iberian Mother of God. 
 It is enclosed in a case with handles, and is taken 
 out daily and driven about before the kneeling mul- 
 titudes, or upon payment of a large sum to the 
 houses of the sick to cure them of their diseases. 
 A special coach with four horses is devoted to its 
 use, the attendants riding always with uncovered 
 heads. At night, I have seen the square in front 
 
y6 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 of it full of sleeping groups, waiting for the opening 
 of the chapel doors in the morning. 
 
 The Holy Gate of the Kremlin, curiously and 
 rudely decorated with Oriental frescoing, is also an 
 object of great veneration. It is never passed 
 through, not even by the Emperor, except with 
 uncovered head. This is even exacted of strangers. 
 
 We spend the whole day in the cathedrals and 
 Palace of the Kremlin. Every portion of the interiors 
 of the cathedrals is profusely decorated with large 
 figures of emperors, saints, apostles, and martyrs, on 
 gold backgrounds. The Icon of the great cathedral 
 is superb with its heavily ornamental gold columns 
 and panels. Even the supporting pillars about the 
 building do not escape this contagion of gold and color. 
 The result is a tout ensemble of color and sparkle 
 such as I have never seen in civilized countries. All 
 this, with the curious shapes and profusion of external 
 domes and minarets, keeps one constantly on the 
 alert for the unexpected, and is a continual reminder 
 of the remoteness and Eastern character of this most 
 strange city. A raised dais in the centre of the 
 great cathedral of the Kremlin is the spot where all 
 the Emperors of Russia have been crowned. 
 
Moscow. yj 
 
 The Kremlin Palace is worthy of all praise. It 
 consists of the ancient and modern residences of the 
 Emperors. The large modern Throne, Reception, 
 and Audience chambers, with superb effects in white 
 and gold, are three noble rooms ; the largest I have 
 ever seen, with floors of polished marqueterie. The 
 Emperor's dais, chair, and baldaquin in the Throne 
 Room are truly regal, with covered steps of the finest 
 gold woven carpet. The Imperial eagles behind the 
 chair are massively wrought. The immense panels 
 of the walls are upholstered with embossed Persian 
 silk of a delicate blue, while the columns and ceiling 
 are of white stucco, covered with golden arabesques 
 and Persian characters. It is in this room that the 
 Emperors give audience immediately after their coro- 
 nation. The Empress receives the congratulations 
 of the ladies in a smaller, adjacent room, in which 
 the dais, baldaquin, and chair are of scarlet silk 
 velvet. After coronation and audience, a dinner is 
 served in the dining-room of the older palace. This 
 room is most unique in shape and size. A huge 
 square column in the centre, around which is the 
 buffet, supports the sectionally arched monastic 
 ceilings, which, with the walls, are adorned with 
 
'j8 Scandinavia and Russia, 
 
 Biblical subjects, on a gold background. Around 
 the four sides, a low settee is covered with delicately 
 embroidered Persian silks, which contrast with a 
 most bizarre floor carpet, of curious Oriental designs, 
 in dark material, on an orange foundation. 
 
 In the old Palace of the Czars the apartments are 
 low, small, dimly lighted ; almost weird and monas- 
 tic. The walls and ceilings are decorated with a 
 dark mixture of Eastern colors and characters. The 
 floors and stairways of stone, carefully and curiously 
 hewn into the same characters, make a very uneven 
 and uncomfortable footing to walk upon. The effect 
 of all this seemed curiously to impress one with an 
 idea of absolute despotic rule and weird, uncanny 
 power. One walked cautiously and hesitatingly, as 
 if half expecting suddenly to come upon some fierce 
 caliph who held one's life in his hands. 
 
 In the square outside of these buildings, at the foot 
 of the tall Ivan Bell-tower, is the great Moscow bell, 
 of bronze and silver, weighing over two hundred 
 tons, nearly five times the height of an ordinary man, 
 and sixty-seven feet in circumference. It is now 
 raised on a low pedestal, with the broken piece by 
 its side. 
 
Moscow. yg 
 
 Around the Arsenal building are several curious 
 and ornamental bronze guns and gun carriages. One 
 huge piece at the corner, weighing forty tons, is a 
 suitable companion for the great bell. 
 
 Our first general view of the city was from the 
 Kremlin wall ; but, owing to the rain, we did not 
 long linger, anticipating an ascent of the Bell-tower 
 the first pleasant day. 
 
 Most of the restaurants in Moscow are thoroughly 
 Slav, in decoration, cooking, and attendance. One 
 is served by natives dressed all in white, with a red 
 sash at the waist. The wines are excellent, the 
 soups are iced ; fish follows the meat ; their coffee 
 and tea are unrivalled ; and for a first course, fresh 
 caviare on toast or warm bread is delicious when 
 taken with a fiery native drink (somewhat resem- 
 bling schnapps), as an appetiser. 
 
 Near the Holy Gate of the Kremlin is the Cathe- 
 dral of St. Basile, with its eleven extraordinary 
 domes, no two of which are alike. It is architect- 
 urally the most remarkable building in Russia. One 
 can only liken it to a huge vegetable garden of brick 
 and metal, painted in all the colors of the rainbow. 
 Its interior seems to consist of a series of small 
 chapels. 
 
8o Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 One of the most conspicuous buildings in Moscow 
 is the modern Church of the Deliverer, built since 
 1 8 14, to commemorate the retreat of Napoleon. It 
 is in the shape of a Greek cross, of sandstone, with 
 five golden domes, situated on an eminence, sur- 
 rounded by tasteful gardens, which are protected by 
 embankment walls ; it is grand and imposing, but 
 seems curiously out of place, with its modern archi- 
 tecture and decorations, in this old town. The 
 interior is most sumptuous and pleasing. A dado 
 of dark marble is surmounted with the same material 
 in grey and white, above which are frescoes of scrip- 
 tural subjects. In the centre and top of the central 
 lofty dome is a colossal fresco of The Almighty, 
 with outstretched hands, in benediction. In the 
 ends and above the entrance doors of each of three 
 arms of the cross are balconies, protected by railings 
 composed of a series of single brass candlesticks, 
 which are also continued on the same level entirely 
 around the walls. When we first entered, at dusk, 
 evening service was going on, and these candles 
 were all lighted, together with those in numerous 
 gilt and cloisonne candelabra on the floor. The 
 effect of strong light and dark shadow in the fast 
 
Moscow. 8l 
 
 darkening twilight was grand. The entrances under 
 the balconies are protected by finely wrought trel- 
 lised, bronze, screen doors. Numerous paintings 
 adorn the walls in panels between the marbles. 
 
 In the fourth arm of the cross is the altar, cov- 
 ered by a pyramidal-shaped chapel of white polished 
 marble, with numerous panel paintings of saints and 
 figures, all surmounted with gold bronze eagles and 
 cross on the crescent (indicating the triumph of the 
 one over the other) ; the entrance to the altar being 
 screened by massive golden doors, percees d jour. 
 This chapel reaches quite up to the ceiling of the 
 church. 
 
 Russian priests, with their long flowing hair 
 and superb golden robes, were chanting the service, 
 assisted by two choirs of men and boys, — one on 
 either side of the altar, — who took up the responses 
 singly or in unison. The marble walls and polished 
 surfaces acting like vast sounding-boards, the deep, 
 sonorous tones of the priest and the chorus of the 
 choirs lingered and reverberated about the building, 
 until they finally died away in the vast vault of the 
 dome above. It was all most impressive, the effect 
 being heightened by the evident sincerity and de- 
 
82 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 votion of the worshippers, who prostrated them- 
 selves, according to the Russian custom, flat on the 
 pavement, at intervals. We lingered for more than 
 an hour, spell-bound by the delicious music and the 
 sacred character of the service ; all the while the 
 deep and musical tones of hundreds of bells outside 
 were chiming and calling to prayer all over the city. 
 We are stopping at the Slaviansky Bazar (Hotel 
 du Bazar Slave), which was originally built, as its 
 name indicates, for a bazaar ; but, failing of success, 
 it was converted into a hotel. The present restau- 
 rant was the former salesroom. It is very large and 
 lofty, with tastefully painted and ornamented beams, 
 arches, and buttresses. The tables are placed in 
 niches around the walls, intended as stalls for the 
 sale of goods. In the centre is a large basin with 
 fountain, about which are numerous palm and other 
 growing trees and green foliage. The cooking is 
 excellent, and the room is most attractive. 
 Sunday, Attended mass this morning in the Great Cathe- 
 {au^^') ^^^^ °^ ^^^ Kremlin. The offlciating priests, with 
 their Greek crowns and robes, might have been so 
 many old patriarchs, representations of whom we 
 are so familiar with in Biblical prints. 
 
Moscow. 8j 
 
 After the service we climbed the Ivan tower to 
 view the city, and a marvellous and unusual sight it 
 was. We looked down upon a sea of light green 
 roofs, relieved by hundreds on hundreds of golden 
 and colored towers and minarets. It was from this 
 point that Mme. de Stael made her famous and ex- 
 cellent description of Moscow in three words : 
 * Voild Rome Tartare ! ' 
 
 Toward evening we went up the river for about 
 three miles, on a miserable little steamer, to the foot 
 of Sparrow Hill, which we climbed to get the cele- 
 brated view which Napoleon, with his invading 
 army, first had of the city. Thiers, in his * History 
 of the Consulate and Empire,' thus describes it : — 
 
 Enfin, arrivee au sommet d'un coteau, I'arm^e decouvrit 
 tout-a-coup au dessous d'elle, at k une distance assez rap- 
 prochee, une villa immansa, brillianta da mille coulaurs, 
 surmontea d'una foule de domes dores rasplendissants da 
 lumiera, melange singuliar da bois, da lacs, da chaumi- 
 eres, da palais, d'e'glisas, de clochers, villa a la fois 
 gothiqua at byzantina, realisant tout ca qua las contas 
 oriantaux racontent das marvaillas de I'Asie. Tandis que 
 des monasteres flanques da tours formaiant la ceintura de 
 cette grande cite', au centra s'elavait sur une e'minence 
 
84- Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 une forte citadelle, espece de capitole ou se voyaient a la 
 fois les temples de la Divinite et les palais des empereurs, 
 ou au dessus des murailles crenelees surgissaient des 
 domes majestueux, portant I'embleme qui represente toute 
 I'histoire de la Russie et toute son ambition, la croix sur 
 le croissant renversee. Cette citadelle c'etait le Kremlin, 
 ancien sejour des Tzars. 
 
 A cet aspect magique, I'imagination, le sentiment de la 
 gloire, s'exaltant a la fois, les soldats s'ecrierent tous 
 ensemble : ' Moscou ! Moscou ! ' Ceux qui etaient restes 
 au pied de la colline se haterent d'accourir; pour un 
 moment, tous les rangs furent confondus, et tout le monde 
 voulut contempler la grande capitale ou nous avait con- 
 duits une marche si aventureuse. On ne • pouvait se 
 rassasier de ce spectacle eblouissant et fait pour eveiller 
 tant de sentiments divers. Napoleon survint a son tour, 
 et, saisi de ce qu'il voyait, lui qui avait, comme les plus 
 vieux soldats de I'armee, visite successivement le Caire, 
 Memphis, le Jourdain, Milan, Vienne, Berlin, Madrid, il 
 ne put se defendre d'une profonde emotion. 
 
 We strolled through the birch woods and over 
 the hill, for an hour ; and after a delicious cup of 
 tea, with a slice of lemon, from a smoking samovar 
 which was brought to our table at a little restaurant 
 by the river, we took steamer back to the city. The 
 
Moscow. 8^ 
 
 Moskowa describes, in its course through and about 
 Moscow, an immense letter S ; thus we had many 
 excellent views on our return. The rain had ceased, 
 the clouds all disappeared, and the air had that 
 peculiar clear, transparent effect which is so often 
 noticeable after a storm. As we approached the 
 city nearer and nearer, every golden spire stood out 
 clearly and distinctly against the sky ; while the last 
 rays of the setting sun glistened and gleamed from 
 dome to dome. We landed on the island below the 
 Kremlin, and, as we walked back on the opposite 
 side of the river, the old citadel, with its walls, 
 towers, and buildings, was magical to behold. 
 
 We saw the peasants all the afternoon, farming, 
 fishing, and gathered on the banks of the stream to 
 watch us pass. They seem a good-natured, ignorant, 
 low class, much given to drunkenness, and astonish- 
 ingly fond of the various shades of red. It is used 
 both by male and female to such an extent in cloth- 
 ing as to be almost typical. The men dress with 
 top boots, creased and folded at the ankle, dark 
 trousers tucked into the boots, and a red shirt, either 
 of flannel or cotton, worn like a blouse, with a belt 
 or string at the waist ; over this, as the weather re- 
 
86 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 quires, they put on a vest and coat, and on top of all, 
 / a/ peculiar, flowing, long-tailed overcoat. The effect 
 of the vest only, worn over the shirt, with the red 
 .flaps flying below it, is very curious. A black cloth 
 ■ cap, with visor, completes the costume. Most of 
 \ ^the women have a dress, apron, waist, or at least a 
 ; * handkerchief tied over the head, either of scarlet or 
 ; pink ; often both colors are worn at the same time. 
 IThe waist of the dress is so short that in many cases 
 the skirt hangs from above the bosom. These red 
 shirts and dresses, everywhere dotted about, in the 
 I, |.elds and on the water, are very picturesque, and 
 give bits of warm color to the landscape, 
 July 27, We spent the morning wandering through the 
 
 (Aug. 8.) inij-^Qa^cies of the Gostinnoe Dvor, which I found 
 much nearer my ideal than the St. Petersburg 
 bazaar. It covers many squares, through which the 
 narrow streets run, with passageways innumerable. 
 After the first turn or two, one loses all idea of 
 locality, and wanders about through a labyrinth of 
 turnings, midst a bewildering and confusing assort- 
 ment of tempting wares. 
 
 F left me at noon for Warsaw and Germany. 
 
 I then presented my letters of introduction, and 
 
Moscow. 8y 
 
 received for the next four days, both in Moscow and 
 at Nijni, a generous welcome and hospitality, which 
 will always remain one of the pleasantest recollec- 
 tions of my trip in Russia. 
 
 NIJNI NOVGOROD. 
 
 During the period of the fair at Nijni, smoking juiyas 
 in the streets is prohibited, under a penalty of 500 ^'^"^' ^'^ 
 roubles (a rouble is nominally worth about seventy- 
 five cents). Notices to this effect are posted every- 
 where ; but, unfortunately for me, they were all in 
 Russian characters. As I drove from the station on 
 my arrival, enjoying a good cigar and the fresh 
 morning air, after a tiresome, sleepless night in a 
 close railway carriage, a mounted official stopped my 
 droski before we had gone the length of two blocks. 
 Evidently something was seriously wrong ; but what 
 it was I could not ascertain. Even the production 
 of my passport failed to satisfy him. The address 
 on my letter of introduction to the resident English - 
 Consul produced more effect, and calling a second 
 guard, who seated himself by my side, we drove on. 
 With this escort of foot and horse, I presented my- 
 self — or rather was presented, for I was under 
 
88 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 arrest — at the residence of the Consul. Mutual 
 explanations followed, and the affair (which might 
 have been most serious for me) was amicably ar- 
 ranged. This was but one of the many obligations, 
 and but the beginning of the courteous hospitality, 
 
 I received from Mr. F during the day. With 
 
 the joking remark that I evidently was not able to 
 take care of myself alone, he remained with me 
 during all the hours I spent at Nijni, thoughtfully 
 providing for my fullest enjoyment and best ap- 
 preciation of the many curious sights and scenes 
 of the great fair. 
 
 The town is pleasantly situated at the junction of 
 two rivers : one of which, the great Volga, rolls ma- 
 jestically on its course through the town and down 
 the vast valley. One bank rises to quite a height, 
 on which residences are built to the very top. 
 
 The Fair grounds are on a peninsula between the 
 rivers and a canal, and are only used in the weeks 
 between July 15th and August 25th. The long lines 
 of buildings, shops, warehouses, large hotels, restau- 
 rants, etc., are closed during the remainder of the 
 year, and in spring are under water. This shows 
 the importance of the fair, when a whole section of 
 
Nijni Novgorod. 8g 
 
 a city can be abandoned for ten months of every 
 year for the profits in trading during the other two. 
 It is not a mere holiday exhibition fair (in the sense 
 we mean when using the word), but a vast national 
 entrepot where the entire trading and exchange of 
 commodities for the whole year are condensed into a 
 few weeks. Tartars, Persians, Armenians, Chinese, — 
 all the different tribes of inhabitants and neighbors 
 from the various parts of the vast Empire, — bring 
 their products in huge quantities, which they dis- 
 pose of at wholesale, and then buy the manufactured 
 articles of the more civilized provinces to take back 
 with them. The gathering of people, the piles of 
 merchandise, the bargaining, customs, manners, 
 dress, amusements, activity, and life of this vast 
 human beehive is wonderful to behold. Every 
 quarter has its restaurant, with choir of young 
 women in various costumes according to its nation- 
 ality, — the imported Hungarian, with red jacket, 
 gold braid and coy little top-boots with tassels ; the 
 costume de ballet ; the Tartars, with scarcely any 
 costume at all, — who sing at intervals on a small 
 raised platform, and then go about with their little 
 silver plates for collections. 
 
go Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 I left at nine p. m. by train. The distance be- 
 tween Nijni and Moscow is 450 versts (a verst is 
 about three-quarters of an English mile), and takes 
 twelve hours and a half. The same distance between 
 Manchester and London is done in five hours. From 
 St. Petersburg to Moscow, 650 versts, takes about 
 thirteen hours, which is the fastest train in Russia. 
 The cars are very comfortable, some of them some- 
 what similar in general arrangement to the Pullman 
 day car. The chairs extend, and can be pulled out 
 at night to form a couch. This does very well, pro- 
 vided one travels, as the natives always do, with 
 pillow and bed clothing. The stranger (except in 
 the sleepers on the St. Petersburg train, which sur- 
 pass even the Pullman) who goes without these may 
 make up his mind to be cold and uncomfortable. 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 July 29, I have escaped all three of the annoyances which 
 
 (Aug. 10.) ^^^ usually experienced during a trip to the Nijni 
 Fair, — heat, dust, and bugs. Since the rain of 
 Saturday and Sunday morning, the weather has been 
 cool and delightful. Indeed, our whole Russian ex- 
 perience has been most enjoyable in every way. 
 
Moscow. gi 
 
 The stories one hears of the surveillance and diffi- 
 culties of travelling in the Empire are about as 
 absurd as some of the ideas stay-at-home English- 
 men have of America. Once have one's passport 
 carefully prepared, give it up willingly to the police 
 on arrival, never leave without it, behave prudently 
 and conform to the laws, and there will be no inter- 
 ference, no surveillance, no restraint. One will find 
 it as pleasant a country to travel in as any in 
 Europe. 
 
 In a conversation with an Englishman at Scar- 
 borough, he impressed upon me the necessity of 
 engaging a courier immediately on landing at St. 
 Petersburg, going into an elaborate and confidential 
 explanation of their relation to the government, 
 during which he informed me that they were in 
 reality regularly authorized detectives ; that in any 
 event a watch would be set on my movements in 
 some form or another, and that it would be much 
 pleasanter to have it openly, in the shape of an 
 assistant and interpreter, than to feel constantly 
 that in some unseen and unknown way one's every 
 step was dogged and followed. I now honestly be- 
 lieve that Englishman to be thoroughly mistaken 
 
g2 Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 in his ideas of the Russian police-system. We have 
 travelled i,6oo miles in the country, have never for a 
 single hour engaged the services of a courier, never 
 for a moment been conscious of, or seen the most 
 trifling indication of surveillance or espionage, — not 
 even during the night of the Peterhof illuminations, 
 where, as I have already stated, we were constantly 
 in the presence of the Emperor and Empress for 
 hours, and could have at any moment, and did several 
 times, approach to the very wheels of their carriage. 
 I have often seen the streets guarded by a cordon of 
 police much more carefully for the passage of our 
 presidents, than were the drives of Peterhof Park 
 that evening. 
 
 More than all this, I believe there is an opportunity 
 to make money in Russia by intelligent foreigners, 
 owing to the absence of a middle-class. The nobles 
 are too wealthy or haughty, and the moujik is yet 
 too ignorant to work at a trade. The presence of 
 so niany Germans would seem to indicate this. We 
 were informed that out of a population in St. Peters- 
 burg of nearly a million, there are over 200,000 of 
 them. They are a prudent, thrifty people, and well 
 know where their best interests lie. We also met 
 
Moscow. 9J 
 
 many resident Scotchmen — engineers, contractors, 
 and manufacturers — all busily engaged in pushing 
 forward the various new lines of railway, and the 
 great pipe conduits for oil, which are now receiving 
 so much attention from the government and from 
 capitalists in the Southern provinces. 
 
 The vast stretches of country between the large 
 cities remind one of some of our Western tracts, 
 and are capable, with intelligent cultivation, of great 
 improvement. 
 
 Called on Dr. H , whom I met in Sweden. 
 
 He received me most cordially, and prevailed upon 
 me to stay another day in Moscow. We drove out 
 to Petrovski Park, stopping at the trotting grounds 
 and training stables on our way. The palace is in- 
 teresting on account of its curious architecture and 
 the simplicity of its interior and furnishing. It is 
 refreshing to be able to enter a building without 
 being obliged to wonder and marvel at fresh treas- 
 ures at every turn. 
 
 We dined well at a restaurant in the park, which 
 also had its music, its Hungarian singers en costume^ 
 and a band of dark, willowy gypsies. Toujours la 
 femme en Russie ! "^ 
 
g^- Scandinavia and Russia. 
 
 July 30, Spent the whole of this my last day in Moscow 
 
 lazily lounging through the Kremlin and about 
 the city, vividly photographing the now well-known 
 buildings and costumes on my mind forever more. 
 Left by train in the evening for 
 
 ST. PETERSBURG, 
 
 July 31, where I arrived the next morning. Spent the day 
 
 "^' "■. in a droski, making sundry purchases, and arranging 
 
 to leave Russia on the morrow. 
 
 Aug. I, Spent the morning with Colonel Way, our Consul 
 
 (Aug. 13.) Qgj^gj-g^]^_ p^<^ f^yg p_ j^j^ sailed on the Wilson steamer 
 
 Marsdin, and began boxing the compass on our tort- 
 uous voyage back to England by sea. I have now 
 done with the Julian calendar, and can again return 
 to single dates. St. Petersburg is fading away in 
 the distance, as so many cities have done before on 
 this trip. The sun lingers lovingly on St. Isaac's 
 and the golden Admiralty spire. Good-bye, Russia, 
 good-bye ! I leave you, with your golden domes, 
 broad thoroughfares, and strange people, very unwill- 
 ingly. You have taken a strong hold on me. Shall 
 I ever see you again ! 
 
END 
 
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