NTHEMIJMS v^^ Class Book Gopyiight^J". COPyRIGHT DEPOSIT. CHRYSANTHEMUMS AND HOW TO GROW THEM THE GARDEN LIBRARY Roses, and How to Grow Them By Many Experts Ferns, and How to Grow Them* By G. A. Woolson Lawns, and How to Make Them By Leonard Barron Daffodils-Narcissus, and How to Grow Them By A. M. Kirby Water-Lilies and How to Grow Them By Henri Hus and Henry S. Conard House Plants By Parker Thayer Barnes The Orchard and Fruit Garden By E. P. Powell The Flower Garden By Ida D. Bennett The Vegetable Garden By Ida D. Bennett Vines, and How to Grow Them By William McCollom Garden Planning By W. S. Rogers Chrysanthemums, and How to Grow Them By I. L. Powell Plate 1 r^ THE CHRYSANTHEMUM IS INDEED A GARDEN FLOWER The greatest rewards and successes, in terms of results and true enjoyment with the least expense and trouble, are often achieved by the amateur who grows the hardy, many-flowered garden varieties Chrysanthemums And How to Grow Them As Garden Plants for Outdoor Bloom and for Cut Flowers Under Glass BY I. L. POWELL ILLUSTRATED Garden City New York DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY 1911 q,^c ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, INCLUDING THAT OF TRANSLATION INTO FOREIGN LANGUAGES, INCLUDING THE SCANDINAVIAN COPYRIGHT, igil, BY DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY ©aA:^ 1)2555 CONTENTS PAGE I. Points for the Beginner • . • • II. Growing Under Glass III. Preparing the Soil and Propagation IV. Bush Plants and Standards . . . V. The Science and Practice of Feeding VI. Growing Exhibition Blooms . . . VII. Growing for Commercial Purposes VIII. Production of New Varieties . . . IX. Insects, Diseases, and Remedies . . X. Growine in the South . . . . . XL ^ta^XV^TTXXA^ AAA %0AA\0 h^V^hAWAA • « • • 4 The Pompon Chrysanthemum . . XII. Cultural Hints Month by Month . XIII. Types and Varieties ...... Index 3 17 25 43 64 77 112 134 146 161 165 173 179 197 ILLUSTRATIONS PLAIE I. The Chrysanthemum is Indeed a Garden Flower {Henry Troth) Frontispiece FACING PAGE II. Buds and Disbudding — I {H. G. Taylor) 6 III. Buds and Disbudding — II {H. G. Taylor) 7 IV. A Hardy Chrysanthemum Border {Nathan R. Graves) .... lo V. The Artistic Appeal {Nathan R. Graves) ii VI. A House for Chrysanthemums and Carnations {J. G. Eldredge) . . i8 VII. Prize Exhibition Blooms in the Bench {Nathan R. Graves) .... 19 VIII. Root Cuttings — I {Nathan R. Graves) 3° IX. Root Cuttings — II {Nathan R. Graves and Leonard Barron) . . 31 X. Root Cuttings — III {Nathan R. Graves and Leonard Barron) ... 50 XI. Fall Protection for Half-Hardy Sorts {H. G. Taylor) 51 XII. A Championship Specimen Bush Plant {Herbert E. Angell) . . 62 ILLUSTRATIONS — Continued PLATE FACING PAGE XIII. A Prize Winning Standard {Nathan R. Graves) 63 XIV. Taking the Bud — I {Leonard Barron) 66 XV. Taking the Bud — II {Leonard Barron) 67 XVI. The Growth of the Buds {Leonard Barron) 78 XVII. Blooms from Crown and Terminal Buds {Leonard Barron) ... 79 XVIII. Supporting Plants on Strings {Nathan R, Graves) 82 XIX. Supporting Plants on Stakes {Nathan R. Graves) 83 XX. Exhibiting Prize Blooms {A. R. Dugmore) 94 XXI. Black Aphis on the Chrysanthemum {Leonard Barron) 95 XXII. The Chrysanthemum in Interior Decoration {Henry Troth) . . 112 XXIII. A Bush Anemone {Nathan R. Graves) "3 XXIV. Potted Plants Growing Outdoors (/. N. Gerard) 128 XXV. Some Garden Possibilities {Allen French and Herbert E. Angell . . 129 XXVI. Two of the Many-flowered Pompons {Nathan R. Graves) .... 146 XXVII. The Pompon and Anemone Types {A. R. Dugmore and N. R. Graves) 147 XXVIII. Hardy Anemones {Brugh Werner) 158 ILLUSTRATIONS — Continued PLATE tACnXG PAGE XXIX. Protecting and Shading Plants (/. N, Gerard) 159 XXX. The Reflexed and Incurved Types {H. E. Angell and N. R. Graves) . 180 XXXI. Two Blooms of the Japanese Type (H. E. Angell and N, R. Graves) , 181 CHRYSANTHEMUMS AND HOW TO GROW THEM CHRYSANTHEMUMS CHAPTER I Points for the Beginner Obtaining information and planning the work — Care of stock plants — Simplest methods of growing — An amateur's experience Naturally the very first question that the would-be grower of chrysanthemums asks himself is: "When shall I begin?" Begin right now, whether "now" happens to be June or January. While certain parts of the year are, of course, more favourable than others for doing practical work in con- nection with the growing of chrysanthe- mums, there is no time when something may not be done toward making a start. The commencement of the expert chrys- anthemum grower's year is about the first of October. It is then that he begins to see the results of his past year's work, and, in consequence, is able to set about intelli- 3 4 CHRYSANTHEMUMS gently making plans and preparations for the ensuing year. It will be well to watch this expert, and, so far as possible, adopt his methods. His note-book will be a prominent factor in his operations at all times, and particularly so at the beginning of the chrysanthemum year. As his flowers come along he jots down the date of full development, the condition and appearance of blooms from the different kinds of buds, and whether colour, form, and general character are desirable. He decides which varieties and how many of each he will grow, and selects the healthiest plants that have produced the best blooms for ** stock" plants for propagating purposes. As soon as the blooms are cut he has these stock plants stored in some cool, light, and well- ventilated place, convenient for watering. A sheltered and well-protected coldframe, he finds a most excellent place for storing stock plants from which cuttings are not to be taken before February ist. When cuttings are required as early as January 1st he places them in a greenhouse where a temperature of 45 to 60 degrees Fahr. can be maintained. Meanwhile the expert POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER 5 grower will have visited some of the promi- nent chrysanthemum exhibitions, noting what new varieties appear to be improvements, also which of the older varieties are shown in good condition. He will probably also visit other experts at their places of business and endeavour, in a fair and friendly way, to learn what new or improved varieties, or methods of cultivation, they may have. Labelling will be observed, and all names that are doubtful verified or corrected. Memoranda will be made of all desirable varieties that he sees and lacks, and such varieties will be procured at the proper time. SIMPLEST METHOD Having got these necessary preparations of the expert clearly in his mind, the beginner must consider the structure in which he is to grow his plants, and the method of culture that he desires to adopt; for of the various methods there is sure to be one that can be made available for his needs and convenience. The easiest and simplest method is, of course, that of grow- ing the plants out of doors with but little, b CHRYSANTHEMUMS if any, protection. For this purpose the small-flowered, hardy varieties known as "pompons" generally, and in some sections of the country as " artemisias," are used. Apart from the fact that they are the cheapest and most easily grown of all the difl'erent types, they are so very desirable for decorative garden effects that they are used extensively on the large country estates. They are deservedly popular, for they give a display of bright and pleasing colour when practically every other out- door flower has been destroyed by frost. While protection is not necessary for them at any time, the season of bloom will be lengthened by having them planted where a building or trees will form a wind- break. The next simplest method is to plant some of the early varieties of the large- flowered type out of doors in a well-sheltered position, and then drive strong stakes in the ground about them to support some protecting material — burlap, matting, can- vas, muslin, heavy building paper, or any old covering that is available. Or, better still, but a little more expensive, arrange c a. o V #^; '«n^., ^ ;:|^:i fM >1 tri +J t- 1) UJ a > CO o «, 4J cn i- ^ „• o ^J ■ O -'— ^ "^ O u _ • = 5 - S S P ■s^l ?^?f ^ POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER 7 a rough frame about them and put a few sash of glass over them during cold weather. AN amateur's experience As illustrative of what may be done with such outdoor treatment of early varieties, the experience of one amateur, told in his own words, is uncommonly interesting: "Great was my satisfaction in demon- strating that the early varieties of the large-flowered type of chrysanthemums could be successfully grown out of doors. I prefer to have my plants in the open border, where they lend their beauty to the general scheme of the garden. I have no greenhouse and I do not want one. "Planting out is done the latter half of April, either from division of the old roots that have been wintered outdoors, or from new plants that I buy from the florists, as I try a few novelties each year. "Division of the old plants and roots and replanting each spring are a necessary detail if you want flowers of size and quality. Plants that have wintered in the open ground are dug up as soon as they have made new growth of two or three inches. They 8 CHRYSANTHEMUMS are carefully broken into separate pieces, taking some roots with each sprout, if possi- ble. I find that this gives the plant an earlier start, which makes it much stronger. "As chrysanthemums are what gardeners call 'gross feeders,' the ground is made very rich by spading in an abundance of old manure. The bed in which they are planted is raised slightly above the general level of the garden, to secure good drainage, and all through the season I am careful to keep plenty of free space around the plants, so that they are open to both light and air, which results in a healthy, sturdy growth, that counts for much when the flowering time comes. "If I want to grow the plants to a single bloom, one foot apart is ample space to allow when planting. If they are to be allowed to make four or five stems they will need at least eighteen inches. If the plants are to be pinched back several times, allow two feet each way, to allow them to make large plants. THE ART OF DISBUDDING "To grow large flowers in my back yard I must follow the methods of the professional florists so far as disbudding and staking the POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER 9 plants is concerned. It means considerable work and close attention all the season, but when October comes, and the plants are in bloom, I feel that I am well repaid. "The largest flowers are grown on plants that are allowed to develop but one stem, and only one bud on that stem. All side shoots are removed as soon as they appear, in order to throw the entire strength into the one flower. The art of chrysanthemum growing centres in a knowledge of the different flower buds and their qualities. A reference to the accompanying illustrations will make this plainer. The plant produces two kinds of buds, * crown' and 'terminal.' The crown is a solitary bud, and the first to appear, forming on the top of the stem before the branches start (Plate II, Figs. 4 and 6). Terminal buds come in clusters at the ends of the final branches which the plant sends out, and terminate the season's growth (Plates II and III, Figs, i, 2, and 10). CROWN BUDS FOR LARGEST FLOWERS "When growing for an individual flower of the largest size, a crown bud is generally selected, and all side shoots are nipped off lO CHRYSANTHEMUMS as they start (Plate III, Fig. 6). The first crown bud, although capable of producing an immense flower, is often deficient in colour- ing matter, and otherwise lacking in the essentials of a perfect flower. Therefore what is called the 'second crown' is generally- chosen as being more certain to give satis- faction. It requires expert knowledge to decide on the propriety of using the first crown, but for the amateur it is much better to rely on the second. "This is obtained by pinching out the tip of the stem (Plate II, Fig. 5-A) in June, or when the stem is eight or ten inches high, before the first crown has appeared, and then allowing a shoot (Plate II, Fig. 5-B) to grow from the base, or axil, of one of the leaves, just below the top. This in turn is kept free from branches in the manner shown in Plate III, Fig. 6, and develops a single bud, which produces the desired quality, and flowers four inches across. "By thus removing the tip, without wait- ing for the first crown to form, one saves time, and, what is very important, is likely to secure a stouter growth. Should the branch (Plate II, Fig. 5-B) end in a cluster Plate V THE ARTISTIC APPEAL The chrysanthemum possesses no other flower. Few people have the Japanese an intrinsic, artistic beauty approached in have appreciated its decorative value as POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER II of -buds, nip out all but one, leaving the strongest, which is generally at the too. MORE FLOWERS FROM TERMINA/I^ BUDS " I prefer to grow the terminals^ and three to a stem. Although the flowers are not so large, they are more graceful, both in the garden and when cut. When the young plant is about five inches high nip off the top (Plate III, Fig. 7). Shoots then start from base of the leaves, forming a plant with three to five branches (Plate III, Fig. 8). Each of these stems will probably terminate in cluster of buds (Plate II, Fig. 2), which is disbudded as necessary at the stage shown in Plate II, Fig. i. I leave three good buds, well separated, which will develop as shown in Plate II, Fig. 3. "These clusters could be reduced to one bud to a stem for larger flowers, or allowed to develop naturally into a number of flowers (Plate III, Fig. 10). The latter, however, are too crowded to give perfect blooms. MAKING A BUSH PLANT "For a bush plant, start with one the size of Plate III, Fig. 7; pinch out the tip. 12 CHRYSANTHEMUMS and, when each branch is five inches long, and looks about the same as the original did, pinch out the top of each shoot, and in turn treat their branches similarly. When the clusters of terminal buds appear remove all but the centre bud, if you want the finest flowers. The more buds you leave the smaller the individual flowers. TRAINING FOR STANDARDS "I like to grow a few plants in tree or standard form, just for variety. I start as for single-stem plants, and, when the stem is about three feet high, nip out the top. This induces branching, but only the upper five or six branches are retained, all the others being rubbed off. The subsequent treatment is as for bush plants. They need careful staking. "Unfortunately, the plants which are destined to grow large flowers will not stand alone. One stake to a plant is generally enough when growing but a few stems to a plant, but when more are required they become quite unsightly. Galvanized steel wire can be used, and is less obtrusive. If several plants are growing together, drive POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER I3 a five-foot Stake at each end of the row, and connect them by wires placed a foot apart, to which the stems are tied as they grow. "An invisible support of my own devis- ing is perhaps the best of all when growing a clump or bush. As the plant increases in size drive a heavy stake (a broomstick painted green) so the top will be in the centre of the clump, the bottom sometimes slanting out slightly, to avoid the roots as much as possible. From this, suspend by four strings a heavy wire ring about eighteen inches in diameter, and with hooked ends, to allow its being joined around the plant and brought up from below. The strings are tied to the ring in slip knots, to permit of the ring being raised or lowered as the plant may require. The plants completely hide the stake, which can be driven quite low, and the method of support is not noticed. "Aside from the staking and disbudding details, the routine of work is simple. See that the plants do not want for water, and early in July spread a mulch of about two inches of old manure about the roots to prevent the ground from baking. From 14 CHRYSANTHEMUMS July until the buds begin to show colour I water once a week with liquid sheep manure, which is made by soaking five pounds of sheep manure in forty-five gallons of water, often and weak, rather than seldom and strong, being my guiding principle in the feeding of the plants. The black and green aphides are always troublesome, but they can be held in check by the frequent use of tobacco dust. PROTECTION FROM EARLY FROST "Though the plants themselves are hardy, the flowers of the large-flowered chrysan- themums are more or less tender, and must be shielded from frost. About the middle of September six-foot stakes, six feet apart, are driven into the bed parallel with, and two feet from, the edge. The stakes are connected by a wire fastened well above the tops of the plants. Over the frame thus formed strips of burlap, long enough to rest on the grass in front and extend well down on the other side of the wire fence at the back of the bed, are thrown whenever frost threatens. The strips are weighted at each end with a stick. Other material, POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER 1 5 such as muslin or canvas, would answer as a cover, but the burlap is both tougher and cheaper, the cover used last fall being good after several seasons' wear. WINTER PROTECTION "After the flowers have matured or have been cut, the old stems are cut off" close to the ground and the stools covered with about eight inches of loose, strawy material. Leaves alone prove too compact. I under- stand that some people prefer to dig up the roots and store the balls of earth close to- gether in a corner of the cellar, where it is cool but not freezing, but I have never done so. Indeed, the old roots are not disturbed until the spring division, and they have done very well with me out of doors." The methods adopted and the results obtained by this amateur are above criticism. An expert could scarcely do better. A list of varieties recommended by him as being well adapted to his method of treat- ment will be found in the chapter devoted to "types and varieties." In reference to wintering the plants out of doors, it is doubt- ful if equally satisfactory results will be l6 CHRYSANTHEMUMS obtained in all localities and soils. In colder localities and heavy clay soils the plants would be more liable to perish. Some pieces of boards laid over the litter to keep the plants dry would make them practically safe anywhere. CHAPTER II Growing Under Glass The best kind of house — The other kind — Makeshifts — Utilizing houses used for growing other plants — Arrangement of houses for growing specimen cut blooms for exhibition or market — For specimen bush plants, market plants, and for general decorative purposes — Storage room When chrysanthemums are to be grown in considerable quantities, and with the expectation of producing the best grades of blooms, whether for pleasure or profit, there is but one really satisfactory way to do it, and that is in a suitable greenhouse. While simple and inexpensive methods of construction will be described to enable many people of modest desires to produce good blooms and enjoy them, a well-con- structed greenhouse is necessary for flowers of the highest quality. CONSTRUCTION OF THE HOUSES Greenhouse construction has reached a very high state of development at the present time. Architecture, material, and 17 l8 CHRYSANTHEMUMS workmanship are of the highest quality. Iron and steel framework is largely used by the best builders and generally accepted by their customers. While comparatively few houses are used for chrysanthemums the entire year, there are a great many houses built for the express purpose of growing them. Various forms are used with equally good results, but one of the best is the even-span house. This may extend either east and west or north and south. Ventilators should be provided for both sides, at the ridge, and below the eave-plate. The chrysanthemum is a robust species of plant and delights in an abundance of pure air, freely circulating. A house 25 to 30 feet wide, 15 to 16 feet high at the ridge and 5 feet high at the eaves, of such length as may be desired, will be found to be of desirable proportions, although the present tendency is to build considerably larger houses when plants are to be grown in large quantities. INFLUENCE OF HOUSE ON PLANTS That the character of the house has a decided influence upon the plants may Plate VI .^lii. '"my A HOUSE FOR CHRYSANTHEMUMS AND CARNATIONS The latter are grown in the outside benches. The former need the extra head-room afforded in the centre of the house. Note the arrangements for shading Plate Vli PRIZE EXHIBITION BLOOMS IN THE BENCH Plants grown as thickly as this require heavy feeding, protection from insects and disease, and plenty of support. The variety is Timothy Eaton GROWING UNDER GLASS 1 9 be gathered from this statement by S. A. Hill in The Florists^ Exchange: "With most florists who grow roses, carna- tions, and chrysanthemums, first place and the choicest position is always given the rose; the second best is given the carnation; while the chrysanthemum is relegated to *any old place,' only provided that there is tolerably fair head-room for it. It is only of late years, and with the most ambitious exhibitors, that the chrysanthemum has received much consideration as to her blooming quarters; but as the old style greenhouse passes, and new, up-to-date structures replace it, the chrysanthemum will be found growing in high, broad houses, where the pure air is in free circulation, carrying life and vigour into every leaf. Two of our 400-foot houses are i8 feet high on the ridge, and we have several times reconsidered and decided that they probably contain a good many cubic feet of wasted space; but this year in a re-arrangement of stock with the new place they somehow got planted to chrysanthemums, with an apology to ourselves for giving up such valuable space to this tribe from the East, 20 CHRYSANTHEMUMS who are supposed to care little where their tents may be pitched, if only the man with the knife will make no mistake in selecting their buds. But — on tile benches, with plenty of room overhead, and free air cours- ing in every direction — these chrysanthe- mums have developed heavier stems and more perfect foliage than we have ever before seen on our place, and we feel sure that the big houses are largely responsible." PROPER HOUSES IMPORTANT Old houses with heavy sash bars, small glass, little head-room, and 2x4 foot venti- lating sash, ten feet apart, will not produce first-class blooms, however well the plants may be treated otherwise. Leaf spot, mil- dew, and other diseases will be almost certain to attack the plants growing under such conditions. Cheap houses may be built that will produce good blooms, if the plants are treated properly, but they must be light and well ventilated. I have grown good plants in a temporarily constructed house made by setting two or three rows of posts, to the tops of which strips of narrow boards were nailed hori- GROWING UNDER GLASS 21 zontally and hotbed sash placed on them with battens over the joints. With two rows of posts a shed roof can be formed, and with three rows an equal span will be made. No sides will be needed until cold nights come; then boards, shutters, or other material can be placed about the sides. Mosquito netting may have to be placed about the sides in some localities to prevent the depredations of the tarnished plant bug. The plants may be grown in houses that are devoted to other things for a portion of the year. An early peach house or vinery may be utilized after the crop of fruit has been removed, although here again light will be more or less obstructed, and first-class re- sults are not likely to be obtained. They may often be grown in houses that are to be used during the winter for such vegetables as tomatoes or cauliflower, without interfering seriously with those crops. BENCHES BETTER THAN SOLID BEDS When it is intended to grow large speci- men blooms, the house may be arranged with solid beds, made of good soil placed upon the earth floor, or with benches of 22 CHRYSANTHEMUMS wood, cement, or other material. Benches made to hold soil to a depth of four to six inches, with openings in the bottom — evenly apportioned to each square foot of its area and amounting to from five to ten per cent, of the area — for drainage are better than solid beds, as the grower has greater control over the roots. Plants in solid beds will often make stronger growth and heavier foliage, but the flowers will not generally be as good. Benches should be low, particularly so those at the sides of the house, allowing at least three feet from top of bench to eave- plate. Anywhere from twenty to thirty inches will be a convenient height. Benches may be constructed resting directly upon the earth floor, if proper drainage can be provided, various methods of construction being used. Benches can thus be made practically indestructible, and to combine the advantages of benches with all the available head-room secured by using solid beds. For convenience in working, the beds should be not more than three or six feet wide, those of the latter dimension being between two walks. Walks may be from GROWING UNDER GLASS 23 twenty to thirty-six inches wide. One walk through each house should be not less than thirty inches wide, to allow room for carry- ing soil, cutting blooms, and visitors to pass. Other walks may be as narrow as twenty inches. Walks and beds, of course, must conform to the dimensions of the house. For growing large specimen bush plants a house without benches is best, although the plants will be better for being placed on benches reasonably close to the glass while in their smaller state. After they have had their final potting they will be bene- fited and be more convenient for working if placed directly on coarse gravel or bricks on the earth floor. This arrangement is also good for ordinary plants that are being grown for decorative purposes. In growing pot plants for market, benches will be better, as the plants will not be too large to be handled easily and they will be more convenient for giving general care. For growing cut blooms for market, benches are best. If to be grown in large quantities, it is better to have sections or divisions of houses for lots of early, mid-season, and late varieties, 24 CHRYSANTHEMUMS SO that each lot may receive treatment according to its needs. Where plants or blooms are grown for exhibition, or where for any other reason it becomes necessary to keep them for some time after they have matured, as is frequent- ly the case, a storage room is desirable, and if not available should be provided. Blooms are soon ruined if left in the house where grown. A dry, well-ventilated building or shed where there is from six to ten feet of head-room, where a temperature of from 35 to 45 degrees may be maintained, and where bright sunshine or even strong light can be excluded, will be an ideal place for the purpose. CHAPTER III Preparing the Soil and Propagating Character of soil — Manure — Composting — Condition of soil used — Getting stock plants in condition for taking cuttings — Arrangements for propagating — The north-side propagating house — Cuttings in boxes or pots — Division of old plants — Propagating for specimen bush plants and standards — For cut blooms and small pot plants — Grafting One of the most important operations connected with the growing of good chrysan- themums, either large plants or fine blooms, is that of procuring and preparing the proper soil for them. If possible, this should be done the autumn previous to the season when it will be required. Otherwise it must be prepared as early in the spring as possible. mechanical character of the soil The mechanical character, or texture, of the soil is of greater importance than its chemical character or fertility. The chem- ical elements required by the plants can be supplied after the plants have been 25 26 CHRYSANTHEMUMS planted and are growing. If the soil is not in good mechanical condition before the plants have begun to take root nothing can be done to improve it without injury to the plants. If the mechanical character of the soil intended for use is bad, some means should be used to improve it; for while plants may be successfully grown in soils varying considerably in this respect, extremes of any kind are sure to prove detrimental to the health of the plants. The soil generally conceded to be best for growing chrysanthemums is a friable clay loam. Stiff, heavy clay, muck, sandy or gravelly soils are not good for the purpose, and when from necessity any of them must be used, efforts should be made to improve them by the addition of other materials or soils of opposite character. Heavy clay soil will be improved by the addition of about one sixth each of sand and leaf mould to four sixths of the clay. Gravelly and sandy soils will be improved, both mechani- cally and chemically, by having a greater proportion of heavy manure added to the compost than soils of heavier texture can stand. PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 27 In collecting the soil, that taken from the surface of a pasture field, by removing about three or four inches, is most de- sirable. This should be placed in a layer about six inches thick, in some convenient place, and the layer of such extent as to make about one fourth of the entire quantity required. Upon this place a layer of good manure, preferably cow manure, although horse, hog, and sheep manure are all good, if well decomposed. Sheep manure is generally the richest of all. Fresh cow manure may be used, but old is preferable. The layer of manure should be about two inches thick, equal to one fourth of the entire bulk. Add another layer of soil and manure and continue until the heap is from two to three feet thick. If prepared in the fall, it should remain undisturbed until the frost is out of it in the spring, when it should be turned, beginning at one end or side, chop- ping the heap down with a spade or other implement, mixing the soil and manure well together, and making the heap somewhat broader than before. Allow it to remain in this condition for two or three weeks. Then spread over the top and sides a coat- 28 CHRYSANTHEMUMS ing of good ground bone, equal to one half peck to each cubic yard of compost, chop the heap down, and turn and mix thoroughly as before. Generally this will put the com- post in good condition for use, although if the soil is stiff and rough a third turning may be beneficial. When the compost is not prepared until spring it should be turned as soon as collected, and a third turning will most likely be needed. Such a compost, if properly prepared, is all that is required for general pottings and for filling boxes or benches. AN expert's opinion OF COMPOST The fact that chrysanthemum growers generally the world over are well agreed upon the character of compost to be used for successful results is plainly shown by the following expression of opinion upon the subject from the writings of an English expert : "The question of the feeding of the chrys- anthemum resolves itself into two parts — namely, the nature of the compost and of the subsequent feeding which is given when the flower buds appear. It is com- PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 29 monly held that the basis of the compost should consist of good fibrous loam. The physical (mechanical) condition of the soil is of almost as much moment as its chemical constitution. It is of prime importance that the soil shall be porous, in order that thorough drainage and aeration be obtained. For this purpose it is well to mix with the soil a certain amount of sharp sand and charcoal, the presence of the latter being particularly desirable. The nature of the soil, too, governs the manner of potting. For a sturdy growth, light soil should be firmly packed, while heavier soils require only loose packing. The use of heavy clay loam brings with it the danger of water- logged roots, while a very light, sandy soil permits excessive drainage and consequent root starvation. It is preferable, however, to err on the side of lightness rather than heaviness. With the loam, well-rotted stable manure may be mixed in various propor- tions, although the ratio of one part manure to three parts loam will probably give the best results. Horse, cow, and sheep manure can all be used with good results; but cow manure is generally preferred, as 30 CHRYSANTHEMUMS it gives up its fertilizing qualities gradually. It is often advantageous to add to the com- post one part in four of leaf mould. With the lighter soils this is particularly desirable, not so much because of any addition of nutrient material, but because of its power of retaining water and plant food. " Various animal as well as mineral fertil- izers have frequently been added to the com- post, and sometimes even used as substitutes for the stable manure. Guano has thus been used with good results; so have fish manure and dried blood. A very good practice is to add to every cubic yard (twenty bushels) of compost forty pounds of finely ground bone manure, which not only serves as a source of phosphoric acid and lime, but furnishes some nitrogen. Soot also has with advantage been made a part of the compost. This furnishes as much as 3 per cent, of nitrogen, chiefly as sulphate of ammonia, as well as small quantities of phosphoric acid and potash. It may be used at the rate of one to five pounds to 100 pounds of compost. Should the loam be at all deficient in lime, the deficiency should be corrected by the addition of a few hand- Plate VIII Shoots, from which root cuttings are made, about the base of a stock plant Cuttings as taken, and, alter being trimmed, ready to be set away in sand to root ROOT CUTTINGS — I ^ s mJ" .^^ PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 3 1 fuls of slaked lime — two or three pounds per cubic yard of soil. A lack of lime will cause soft stems and flabby leaves. " Nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia have been recommended by some growers as a part of the compost. The evidence in favour of this practice is at present in- sufficient to commend it. It seems an unnecessary addition, with danger of a too concentrated soil composition, and waste of nitrogen through rapid drainage. Ex- cessive concentration of nutrients in the soil mixture is more injurious than a deficiency, because of the inability of the roots to absorb solutions above a certain degree of concentration. The result is that the plant starves. This fact has been very strikingly shown by some chrysanthemum cultures seen by the writer. Again, in the presence of an excess of nutrients, a good development of roots is not produced, even though the concentration of the soil solution is not too great for absorption by the roots; and, further, the roots are not in condition to take up the subsequently applied liquid manure. The best plan is to have a moder- ately rich compost, thereby obtaining healthy 32 CHRYSANTHEMUMS roots, Stems, and leaves; then, when the buds appear, apply the rich liquid manures. Experiments have shown that nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia may be used as a substitute for stable manure, although not as an addition to it. Still this does not at present seem advisable, the better plan being to reserve these for the subsequent feeding as liquid fertilizers." — J. J. Willis, in The Gardener's Chronicle. STOCK PLANTS To insure healthy cuttings, the stock plants must be given such treatment for three or four weeks previous to the time that the cuttings are required as will induce vigorous, healthy growth. The condition most conducive to this result is a light, well- ventilated greenhouse or frame, where the temperature may be kept at from 40 to 50 degrees at night and from 50 to 60 degrees during bright, sunny days. Stock plants that are given such treatment as soon as the flowers are cut will furnish good cuttings by the middle of December. When cuttings are not required until January or February or later, the stock plants may be kept as PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 33 described in Chapter I, and be brought into growing condition as desired. PROPAGATION The methods required for successful prop- agation will vary slightly during the season, according to the changing character of that period, but the essential principles are the same throughout. These principles are: Pure, clean atmosphere, without draughts of air striking the cuttings until they have begun to make roots; considerable moisture in the atmosphere; temperature as nearly as possible between 45 and 55 degrees; and some arrangement that will hold clean, sharp sand, fine gravel, crushed stone or brick, or even washed coal ashes, to a depth of two to three inches. Various arrangements may be made to provide these conditions according to the quantity of plants to be propagated, the facilities avail- able for the purpose, or the inclination of the operator, from the extensive propagating houses of the prominent commercial estab- lishments to a few pots, a small box, or a saucer in the window of some enthusiastic amateur. The best methods of doing this 34 CHRYSANTHEMUMS work are those adopted by the large com- mercial establishments. There a large bench in a house, or perhaps an entire house, will be devoted to the purpose. Cuttings that are propagated before the first of April will do well in a good position in any house if well shaded. After that date what is known as a north-side propagating house is more desirable for the purpose. This house is made by practically putting a partition lengthwise of an even-span green- house that extends east and west, thus form- ing a low, narrow house at the north side of a three-quarter span house. Architect- urally the propagating house may be distinct from the other. It is generally from six to seven feet wide, with a bench three to four feet wide. The most of the heating pipes are placed under the bench, the sides of which extend below the bottom, sometimes to the floor, thus forming an enclosure for the pipes and maintaining a higher temperature under the cuttings than that of the atmosphere above them, producing what is termed "bottom" heat. Cuttings of most genera of plants root more quickly, and often better, for having a PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 35 limited amount of bottom heat, and the chrysanthemum is not an exception. It should be very slight, however, 60 degrees being the highest temperature allowable. Cuttings in small quantities may be rooted readily in boxes, seed pans, or flower pots. I have made an excellent propagating frame from a large box about ten inches deep, with openings in the bottom for drainage, covering it with moss and putting in three inches of sand. When the cuttings were inserted the box was covered with glass, which could be removed entirely or raised for ventilation, as required. For propa- gating after April ist, the coolest position that is available should be chosen and some means used to protect the cuttings as far as possible from direct draughts of air, which must necessarily be admitted at this season. The outside temperature is very much higher at this time, the sunlight strong, and the cuttings are likely to suffer from too rapid evaporation of the moisture which they contain, and which they have practically no means of obtaining until roots are formed. Such conditions tend to 36 CHRYSANTHEMUMS weaken and harden the cuttings, and, if not mitigated as far as possible, will seriously damage them. The house should be shaded lightly and some material placed directly over the cuttings. Newspapers answer the purpose fairly well; in fact, they are excel- lent if they can be kept in place. Plant- protecting cloth or cheese cloth, placed a few inches above the cuttings and kept moist, is good. Abundance of moisture must be supplied the cuttings at this season; they should be watered several times during the day, if the sun is shining. The bench, walls, and walks should also be frequently sprayed with cool water. The method of propagation used in Eng- land is to fill small pots — 3 or 4 inch — with a mixture of one third each of sand, leaf mould, and soil; then cuttings are inserted near the edge and the pots placed in some position where the necessary con- ditions may be maintained. That method is but little practised in this country. It might, however, be adopted by amateurs who desire to grow only a few plants. Clean, sharp sand is the best material for rooting the cuttings, but where this is PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 37 not available excellent substitutes will be found in fine crushed stone or brick, and washed coal ashes. MAKING THE CUTTINGS As before stated, cuttings should be taken from healthy plants only. The young shoots that are to be used should be reasonably strong and of good colour. They should be cut about three inches long, and, as they are detached from the plants, tied in bundles, with a label for each, and placed in water immediately. A good cutting should be from two to three inches long, being the top of a growing shoot. This should be cut clean with a sharp knife and one or two of the lower leaves removed, the ends of the upper leaves being cut off. By taking the cutting between the fingers of one hand and bringing these leaves together at the tip of the cutting, they may all be clipped at once, and with a little practice the work of making the cuttings properly can be done very rapidly. For the best results the stem of the cutting should be reasonably soft at the base. If too hard it will not root so readily, although where it is desired to 38 CHRYSANTHEMUMS get as many plants as possible of a variety, as in the case of a new or scarce one, cuttings may be made of the entire shoot, using a single eye or joint for each. Should these cuttings be very short, they may be fastened to a toothpick or any small splint, allowing it to extend an inch or more below the base of the cutting, this being pushed into the sand as a support. If not convenient to put the cuttings in the sand as soon as made, they should be left in water, or, if to be kept for any length of time, should be packed in damp moss and put in a cool place. Before putting the cuttings in the sand the latter should be made firm by pounding the surface smooth and, if dry, watered. A good plan is to have a strip of wood about three inches wide and of the length of the width of the cutting bench. This will serve as a rule to draw the lines for the cuttings. Have a piece of wood shaped like a knife blade, but about one fourth of an inch thick. With this draw a line by the edge of the stick about one and a half inches deep, insert the cuttings, use the edge of the rule to firm the sand by the side of the cuttings, PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 39 and repeat. The cuttings, if strong, may be about two inches apart in the rows; if weak, closer. The rows may also be closer than three inches, if it is desired to utilize space to the best advantage. As soon as the cuttings are in the sand they should be given a thorough watering, and must never be allowed to suffer for want of moisture. Cuttings should be well rooted in from two to three weeks, without bottom heat; with it, in from ten to fifteen days. Propagation may also be effected by divi- sion of the old plants, or, rather, by carefully removing the young shoots with the roots that have already formed in the soil. This method is rarely practised, but may some- times be used for getting bush plants or standards started early. GRAFTING FOR STANDARDS Grafting the chrysanthemum is but rarely practised, although the operation is not difficult. Whenever it is done it is gener- ally for the novelty of having two or more colours, or varieties, produced by one plant. It has occasionally been done for the purpose 40 CHRYSANTHEMUMS of imparting the strength of a vigorous variety to a weaker one, but there is very- little gained in that direction. Standards that could not be obtained in any other way may be formed by grafting. The best method of procedure for grafting bush or single stem plants is to select some vigorous-growing variety to supply stocks. Propagate the stocks as early as possible, and when they have become well established in their first pots, and have made five to six inches in growth, cut them back to about three inches, split the remaining stem about one inch down, cut the scion wedge shape, insert in the split made in the stem of the stock, and bind the point of juncture firmly but not tightly with raffia or some other soft material. Then place the plants in a posi- tion where the temperature can be kept at from 60 to 70 degrees and a close, moist atmosphere maintained, giving only suffi- cient ventilation to keep the air pure, and shade from bright sunshine. After ten days or two weeks they may be removed to ordinary conditions, still keeping them shaded, and sprayed with water frequently for another week, when they may be grad- PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 4I ually exposed to full sunlight and air. If it is desired to graft more than one variety on to one stock, the stocks must be "stopped" when they are about three inches high. (The process of stopping is fully described in Chapter IV). If more than two or three varieties are to be grown on one stock, the stock must be stopped again; as many shoots must be produced as the number of varieties desired. When the shoots from the last stopping have made a growth of six inches, proceed as before described. To graft a standard the stem must be grown to the desired height and then grafted with a single scion, or the stem may be stopped and the resulting branches grafted, as in the process previously described. A large globe, a bell glass, or even a large fruit jar may be placed over the head of the standard, and supported from below, to produce the conditions of moisture and heat, care being exercised that the matter be not overdone. Some years ago a writer gave an account in one of the English horticultural publications of the wonderful results obtained by grafting the large- 42 CHRYSANTHEMUMS flowered varieties on stocks of Chrysanthe- mum frutescens^ commonly known as Paris daisy. I tried the matter out, but the results were not satisfactory. CHAPTER IV Bush Plants and Standards lime for propagating — Watering — Condition of soil used — Drainage — Stopping or pinching — Tying and training — General care — Supports for the blooms — The finishing operation — Transporting the plants To PRODUCE first-class specimen bush plants or standards the grower must use all available means at his command, leaving nothing to chance that possibly can be foreseen. Good large plants are more at- tractive and impressive than good small ones. To get large plants they must be propagated early. It is advisable to put in at least two lots of cuttings for this purpose; three lots will be better, as "things" will happen to the plants, no matter how well they are managed. Early propagated plants that are intended for large specimens will sometimes make flower buds in March, which generally will ruin them for the purpose intended. The first lot of plants should be propagated before January ist, 43 44 CHRYSANTHEMUMS another lot about January 20th, and a third lot about February 15th. If anything hap- pens to either of the early lots the next can be used, and as little time as possible lost. First-class bush plants cannot be grown from plants propagated after March ist, much less standards. Generally but few plants are needed, and the small amount of space required for the extra plants may well be allowed. By this method the grower is reasonably certain of getting some plants to grow to a successful issue. The plants not needed may be grown for cut flowers, or for simple decorative plants, or be dis- carded altogether. In selecting varieties for bush plants choose those having a vigorous but rather dwarf habit of growth, moderately heavy foliage, good, strong stem, and a full flower of fine colour. Com- paratively few of the many varieties in general cultivation will make good bush plants or standards. As soon as the cuttings have made roots from one half to one inch long they should be taken from the sand and potted, using a soil composed of three fifths good loam and one fifth each of sand and leaf mould BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 45 thoroughly mixed. If leaf mould is not available, old, light manure may be substi- tuted. Two- to three-inch pots may be used, according to the amount of roots the cuttings may have. A little sphagnum moss, with a few pieces of charcoal placed in the bottom of each pot, will provide suffi- cient drainage for these sizes of pots. The soil should be made firm about the roots, and the plants placed in a position near the glass where they will receive the full benefit of the sunlight, although they must be shaded from it for a few days. The temperature should range from 45 to 50 degrees at night to 60 to 65 during bright days. The plants should be given a thorough watering soon after being potted; afterward water should be applied only when the soil has become fairly dry. If the soil is kept saturated it will become sour and the plants will not thrive. Watering must be done with good judgment at all times, but special care must be exercised in this respect immediately after each repotting until the roots have penetrated the soil freely. When the soil has become filled with roots, no reasonable amount of water will do harm, if the soil 46 CHRYSANTHEMUMS is of proper texture and good drainage has been provided. WHEN TO REPOT AND SIZES OF POTS TO USE If proper care is given, the plants will make roots rapidly, and should be repotted as soon as the ball of earth has become fairly well filled with them. Do not at any time allow them to remain in the pots until nothing but a mass of roots can be seen when the plants are turned out of the pots. This condition is what is termed "pot- bound," and will cause the growth to be checked to a greater or less extent. Ex- amine the plants frequently by turning some of them out of the pots. When potting, ample room should be left from the surface of the soil to the top of the pots, for water. This will vary from one half an inch for the smallest pots to two or three inches for the largest size. The soil for potting (or plant- ing) should be in only a moderately moist condition, so that if taken in the hand and pressed firmly it will, when released, retain the imprint of the hand, yet fall apart readily. Such soil is in ideal condition. BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 47 In potting, the lighter the soil the more firmly it should be packed. Heavy soils should be packed very little. THOROUGH DRAINAGE OF THE GREATEST IMPORTANCE Before repotting, the pots that are to receive the plants should be provided with some material that will allow any excess of water that may be given the plants to pass away freely and quickly. There is nothing better for this purpose than pieces of broken pots. Charcoal, clinkers, or coarse cinders from coal, however, may be used, either in conjunction with the broken pots or alone. One good-sized piece should be laid over the hole in the bottom of the pot, the concave side down, and smaller pieces placed over the large one. A single layer of the small pieces will do for the smaller sizes of pots, but for the largest pots they should be at least one and one half inches deep. A layer of sphagnum over the drainage material for the smaller pots and some rough, fibrous sod for the large ones will be beneficial. Four-inch pots are 48 CHRYSANTHEMUMS generally used for the second potting and are probably better than a larger size for the purpose, although I have had equally good results by using six-inch. More care will need to be exercised in watering when the larger size is used. This repotting, or "shifting," as it is termed, must be repeated as the plants require, using pots about two inches larger at each repetition, until the plants are in eight-inch pots. From these they should be shifted into the pots in which they are to flower, which may be either ten, twelve, or fourteeu'inch. The last is not too large for healthy plants, which should produce from two to three hundred good flowers. After the plants have been potted into pots larger than eight-inch they cannot be repotted with safety, the body of soil being so heavy that it is liable to fall apart, damaging the roots. At the last potting some additional fertilizer may be added to the soil. A quart of bone meal and a shovelful of good manure to each barrow load of the compost prepared for general use will be safe and prove beneficial. The coarser portions of the soil should be selected for this potting. BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 49 TRAINING THE PLANTS When the young plants are from two to three inches high they should be "stopped," which means that the point of the growing stem or branch must be removed. This is generally done by pinching it out with the thumb and finger nails, or it may be done with the point of a knife. This will cause the plant to send out branches from below. From three to five will generally start after each stopping. After these branches have made from three to five leaves, according to the position they occupy, they must also be stopped. At this stage of development, training to secure the desired form of the future plant should begin. There is a great variety of fancy forms in which the plants may readily be trained, but such forms do not find favour in this country. Practically all of the plants grown here are trained in one form, the difference being in degree only. The form mostly used approaches very nearly to a hemisphere, varying more or less to globular or conical. The desired form of the plant should be decided upon and the stopping and tying be directed toward 50 CHRYSANTHEMUMS securing that form. If the summer training is properly done, the plant will have assumed its proper form, but in reduced scale, by the time that stopping should be discontinued, and all that remains to be done after the flowering growths have been made is to tie them in the positions that they are natur- ally inclined to occupy, no bending or twist- ing of the shoots or branches being required. Small stakes may be placed about the plants, and such shoots as are not in the proper position to aid in the symmetrical construction of the intended form may be drawn gradually to the point where needed by placing a piece of soft cord about the shoot, near the point, and tying it to the stakes. This work must be carefully done, as the shoots split very easily at the point of juncture. If the plants grow well, com- paratively few of the shoots will require tying, as the stopping, if properly done, will very nearly produce and maintain the proper form. Allow some shoots to grow longer than others to fill vacant spaces, stopping those shorter that are growing away too fast. The natural tendency of the plant is to grow upward, consequently Plate X Stock plants in a flat. Started into growth in the spring, they send up shoots which are taken off as cuttings. (See Plate \'III) ^-C The cuttings have grown into plants in six-inch pots, have been pinched back and will soon be repotted and allowed to develop two flowers each ROOT CUTTINGS— III BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 5 1 the shoots that start from the upper parts of the plants should be stopped shorter than those starting from the sides. It may also be desirable to tie down some of the stronger shoots that develop at the top. This stopping and tying should be continued until about the last week in June or the first week in July. Some growers continue the stopping much later than this, but if the plants were propagated early they should be as large as desirable before making their flowering shoots at the time stated. More stopping will naturally make more flowers, but they will not be so large, the foliage will be smaller, and the general effect will not be so good. When stopping is discon- tinued before July ist many of the growths made after that date will produce four- to five-inch blooms, even though the plant is carrying from two to three hundred of them. The treatment for standards is exactly the same as for bush plants, except that, instead of stopping the plants at two to four inches high, the stem is allowed to grow to whatever height the standard is intended to be. Then the stem is stopped and the body of the plant, or "head," is 52 CHRYSANTHEMUMS formed by subsequent stopping and tying. A strong stake must be set beside the stem of the standard and the stem tied to it. PREVENT THE PLANTS FROM BREAKING As soon as the summer training is dis- continued, place four or five stakes closely about the plants and run some cord around them, tying it to the stakes in such manner that it will relieve any weight that may fall upon the branches. The plants are very easily broken at this time, and the loss of a branch will ruin a plant. After the plants have been in their flower- ing pots long enough to have fairly well filled the soil with roots, it is a good practice to arrange the pots so that some material may be placed about them to protect them from the sun and heat. During the hot, drying days of August and September, when the soil in the pots is completely filled with roots and the sun striking on the pots causes the soil near the outside of the pots to dry out very rapidly, the main body of soil will remain sufficiently moist, but the roots at the outside of the pots will suffer. Boards placed about them will afford shade BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 53 and prevent too rapid drying, or some straw or litter may be used. This treatment, as also the following, while not absolutely necessary, will prove beneficial during the periods of excessively hot weather, when every available means should be taken to improve the conditions. The chrysan- themum grows best in a temperature rang- ing from 45 to 75 degrees, and when the temperature rises into the nineties, as it frequently does, with a dry atmosphere and burning sunshine, anything that can conveniently be done to alleviate such conditions will prove beneficial. SHADING The chrysanthemum thrives best in bright sunshine generally, and whatever shade is in any sense permanent in character is detrimental to its best development and is not to be tolerated. Even temporary shade is not absolutely necessary, and, unless used with good judgment, will be better done without. If the matter is thoroughly under- stood, temporary shade may be afforded to bush plants during the hottest part of ex- cessively hot days during July and August 54 CHRYSANTHEMUMS with beneficial results. Under no other circumstances must shading be considered. Cheese cloth stretched above the plants, either inside or outside the glass, for three or four hours during the hottest part of days when the thermometer reads 90 degrees or more in the shade, will afford the plants all the protection that they should have. DISBUDDING With good treatment and favourable conditions during the earlier part of the season, the plants should arrive at the final period of their development — the formation of buds and production of flowers — in vigorous health and with at least two hundred strong, flowering shoots, varying from eighteen to thirty inches in length. About September ist these shoots will begin to form buds, generally a cluster at the extremity of each shoot and several below in the axils of the leaves. To obtain the best results, all of these, except one at the extremity of each shoot, must be removed. This operation is termed *' taking" the bud and "dis- budding," and is described in full detail BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 55 in the chapter devoted to "growing exhi- bition blooms." It is only necessary to understand that the same operations are to be performed on the bush plants, the sole difference being that their flowering shoots are smaller than the stems of the plants grown for specimen blooms. TYING THE BLOOMS IN POSITION When the plants have been disbudded, preparations should be made for getting the blooms tied in the positions that they must occupy in order to make a symmetrical plant. Some means must be used to support the blooms in their positions. There are two methods of accomplishing this. Both are excellent if well done and either of them may be used with good results under vary- ing conditions. One method is to use stakes of either wood, bamboo, or galvanized wire, the latter being much the neatest of all. One stake is placed to each flowering shoot and the latter tied to it in such manner as will hold the bloom in the desired position. If a plant is misshapen, and bending and twisting the branches must be resorted to in order to get it in shape, this will probably 56 CHRYSANTHEMUMS be the best method to use. The other method, and the one that is more generally used at the present time for the plants, is to make a wire frame about the plant, tying the blooms to the frame or to strings carried from one part of it to another. If properly arranged, and if good judgment is used in tying the blooms, the operator can produce a finished plant that will be sym- metrical in form and outline, without the slightest trace of stiffness. There are slight modifications of the form of the frame that the ingenuity of the operator will suggest, but the following is the general plan of construction: Use six iron stakes of such size and length as the plants will require. No. 8 galvanized wire makes good stakes for plants that will tie out to about three to four feet in diameter; larger plants should have stakes two and one half to three and one half feet long, made from quarter or five sixteenths inch iron rods. If a loop is made at the top it will be found convenient. For plants that will measure, when tied out, seven to eight feet in diameter, use stakes three and one half feet long. Place one in the BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 57 centre of the pot and drive it firmly into the soil. Next divide the circumference of the pot rim into five equal parts, place a stake at the point of each division, and drive it firmly into the soil. Wire each stake to the pot by means of pieces of light wire wound about it and drawn to a heavy wire put around the pot under the rim. Next take a piece of No. 12 or No. 14 wire and tie it to the outer end of each stake, thus forming a circle about the plant. The stakes should be placed at such an angle as will give room for tying the greater part of the blooms above the circle; it is better to have some tied below it. The judgment of the operator alone can determine the question of the proper angle to give the stakes. They can easily be bent lower or higher after the circle of wire is in place if it is desirable to do so. Then take some short pieces of the same size wire that was used for the circle and fasten one end in the loop, if you have one, of the centre stake, bringing the other to the upper end of each of the side stakes and secure it by tying. Also run a piece of the wire from the centre stake to the circle, midway between each two side stakes, mak- 58 CHRYSANTHEMUMS ing ten wires in all. You have thus made a frame like that of an umbrella having ten divisions. If the work has been well done two men can take hold of the frame and carry the plant by it. When you are ready to begin tying the blooms, count the number of them on the plant, divide the number by ten, and the quotient will be the number of blooms to be allotted to each division. This dividing and allotting would better be done before the short wires are tied in place at the lower end. Then they may be raised to allow the blooms to be passed from one division to another, as undoubtedly some will con- tain more than the required number and others less. This work well done, the plant is ready for tying the blooms in posi- tion. The tying can be done at any time after the buds have formed, but it is better to defer doing it until the blooms are nearly half open, as the size and character of the bloom can then be determined, and a much better finish given to the plant. Begin at the centre of the plant and work outward and consequently downward. The blooms will, in all probability, vary considerably in size BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 59 and length of stem. In tying, place blooms of different size and height adjoining, as far as possible. If this point is carefully- carried out, the plant will be symmetrical in outline and yet free from the slightest appearance of stiffness. Good taste and judgment are very important factors in the successful outcome of this work. Silkoline or green smilax twine should be used for tying. Pieces of this may be stretched from each of the short wires to the other, and blooms that have to be tied between two wires may be fastened to the strings. Each section should be tied in conjunction with the others, working from the centre of the plant and entirely around it until finished. The finished plant should show practically none of the frame- work. The frame for tying out the blooms of standards is very similar, except that the centre stake should be made of wood about one inch square. Two holes should be bored through this at right angles to each other, with a gimlet or small bit, just large enough to allow a piece of No. 8 wire to pass through, and at such height as will 6o CHRYSANTHEMUMS allow the circle of wire that is to be fastened to the ends of the two wires to come in proper position for tying the blooms. These two wires correspond to the side stakes of the frame for bush plants. Short wires should now be placed from the circle to the top of the centre stake as in the other frame, the only difference being that there will be eight instead of ten divisions. The method of tying should be the same as that for bush plants. GETTING THE PLANTS TO THE EXHIBITION As large specimen bush plants and stand- ards are grown for exhibition more frequently than for any other purpose, the question of transporting them to the place of exhi- bition is a serious one, especially if the distance is considerable. When the distance is not more than ten or fifteen miles they may be carried with reasonable assurance of safety, generally, in spring wagons of some kind. With the plants fastened firmly in the wagon, with reasonably good roads, and a careful driver, they will reach their destination in good order, barring accidents. When the plants must be sent to a consider- BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 6 1 able distance they must necessarily go by rail, either freight or express. If a number of plants are to be sent, and sufficient time can be allowed, the best method is to engage a box car and send the plants by freight, as they can all be placed in the car and made fast so that no harm can come to them. When the plants have to be sent singly they must be crated for ship- ment, and the crating thoroughly done. Use strong material for making the crate, but as light as possible while consistent with strength. Make a good base and fasten the pot to the bottom firmly, bracing and supporting it from each of the sides of the crate. To reduce the diameter of the plant, thus allowing the crate to be as small as possible, some of the blooms on the out- side of the plant may be drawn up, loose from the frame if such is used, and tied to- gether, and returned to their original posi- tions upon the delivery of the plant. If the pot is properly fastened in the crate, the plant itself will need no support. It will be well to cover the crate with poultry netting, to prevent anything from being dropped or pushed through it; also to 62 CHRYSANTHEMUMS prevent any one from evincing their love for flowers by nipping off a few blooms. Plants properly crated will carry safely hundreds of miles. SCALES OF POINTS FOR JUDGING PLANTS The Chrysanthemum Society of America has adopted scales of points for judging plants at exhibitions, which are as follows: A — Scale of points for bush plants and standards, single specimen or any number up to six, in an exhibition where the class under consideration does not form the chief feature in the exhibition hall: Points Equality of size and forms of plants 40 Excellence of bloom 3S Foliage 25 Total 100 B — Scale of points for bush plants, ex- hibits of more than six or for any number of specimen plants in an exhibition where the class under consideration forms the chief feature in the exhibition hall: Points Equality of size and forms of plants 35 Size of bloom 40 Foliage 25 Total 100 Plate XIII PRIZE WINNING STANDARD Like specimen bush plants, standards are grown chiefly for exhibitions. Ihe amateur will probably get more enjoyment from outdoor kinds and smgle exhibition blooms BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 63 C — Scale of points for plants grown to single stem and one bloom. A height of not over three feet is recommended for plants in this class, and pots not over six inches in diameter: Points Excellence of bloom 40 Compact, sturdy growth 35 Foliage, 25 Total 100 CHAPTER V The Science and Practice of Feeding Chemical analysis of the plant — Sources of food supply — Danger of overfeeding — Preparing liquid fertilizers — Varying the foods — Surface dressings While it is not absolutely necessary that the grower should know the chemical com- position of the plants under his care to enable him to produce good plants or blooms, this knowledge may prove beneficial to him and aid him materially in providing the necessary food for his plants, and should, at least, make his work more interesting. Dr. A. B. Griffiths, the eminent agri- cultural chemist, has given the chemical composition of the chrysanthemum, in one- hundredth parts, determined by analysis. The element nitrogen forms 2.92 parts of the entire organic substance of the plant. The mineral substance is made up of : Potash i6.2parta Lime 26.3 " Soda 10.4 ** 64 SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING 65 Magnesia 10.2 parts Iron oxide 3.7 Phosphoric acid 19. 5 Silica 6.0 Chlorine 3,0 Sulphuric acid 4.7 If the food supplied to the plants were based upon a literal assumption of the facts as demonstrated by the analysis, we should probably be obliged to go to the druggist to have it prepared. The practical experience of many growers for years, however, has demonstrated the fact that soils generally contain enough of most of the elements necessary to the development of all forms of plant life. The soils found in practically all parts of the United States, with the exception of the Western deserts and alkali regions, contain more or less of all the ele- ments in the structure of the chrysanthe- mum. Generally there is an insufficient supply of some of the elements for the highest development of the plants; conse- quently we must supply the deficiency. ELEMENTS OF PLANT FOOD As it is practically impossible for us to know positively how much of the different 66 CHRYSANTHEMUMS necessary elements the soil may contain, we can only treat the different soils intelli- gently by grouping them under three general heads and designating them rich, medium, and poor. Even rich soil should have some fertilizer applied to it at some time, as the elements of plant food are constantly being absorbed by the plants growing in them and are being dissolved and carried away by rains; or, as in the case of plants growing in pots, being washed out by the daily waterings. As rich soils are rarely to be had, we will assume that the soil which has been prepared for the general pottings is of medium fertility. THE DIFFERENT FERTILIZERS What are the elements in which the soil is likely to be deficient.'' From what sources may we best procure those elements? The practical experience of cultivators of the soil, aided by the scientific research of competent chemists, has demonstrated the fact that, with rare exceptions, soils generally contain sufficient of all the elements except nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and potash. The available sources of supply of these three Plate XIV Looking down on the cluster of buds. The crown bud Is In the centre ready for " taking " Removing the undesired terminal buds, or "taking" the crown bud A steady hand, a bright eye and a sharp knife are needed if the crown bud is to remain unharmed TAKING THE BUD— I SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING (i^ elements are various animal manures, refuse from the carcasses of animals, and various mineral substances. Animal manures all contain more or less of each of the three elements needed, and the urine more of them than the solid matter. Manure from horses, cows, oxen, or sheep is the most desirable, that from sheep containing more than three times as much nitrogen as that from cows, while that from horses contains, when fresh, about twice as much. Cow manure is always preferable to horse manure, how- ever, because of its ability to retain the fertilizing elements longer. Sheep manure, if properly cared for, is better than cow ma- nure, but less of it should be used, propor- tionately. Ground bone or bone meal that has been properly prepared is one of the best and safest sources of plant food. This contains a large amount of phosphoric acid, considerable nitrogen, and lime. Dried blood and tankage supply nitrogen, as do also nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia. Nitrate of soda contains nitrogen in the most available form of all the sources of supply. Nitrate of potash is a good but expensive source of supply for potash. Wood ashes, 68 CHRYSANTHEMUMS if good, contain some potash, but the amount is uncertain. What are known as "complete fertilizers" may be used. These contain all three of the elements in varying amounts. When their nature is fully understood they may be used with good results, but great care is needed or damage will be done. The soil was supplied with some plant food and in sufficient quantity when the soil and manure were composted and the bone added. This soil should contain sufficient food to give the plants an abundant supply until they have been in their flowering pots long enough to allow the roots to distribute themselves evenly and thoroughly through all parts of it. If the plants have had proper treatment and have made growth as they should have done, they would be ready to shift into their flowering pots at any time from May 20th to June loth. Assuming that they received their final potting about June ist, and stopping was discontinued July 1st, the plants should be growing vigorously and the soil well filled with roots by July 15th, when it will be well to consider the matter of sup- plying them with food in liquid form. It SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING 69 must be distinctly understood, however, that not the calendar, but the condition of each individual plant, must determine the question of when to begin this feeding. Some varieties may not require it at all. If the plants are not growing vigorously, with heavy foliage or dark-green colour, do not give them additional food. When in fine health the chrysanthemum is a good feeder and a robust grower. If not growing freely it is not in good health, and any attempt to force it into health by increasing the amount of feeding ma- terial in the soil will simply aggravate the situation. SUPPLYING THE PLANTS WITH LIME While scientific authorities do not consider lime to be a direct fertilizer, the fact that it is a necessary element of the plant food makes it a fertilizer for all practical purposes. As lime appears in the largest quantity of any single element in the ash of the chrysan- themum, a reasonable amount of it should be supplied to the plants; for while most soils contain some lime, many have an in- sufficient amount, and, as in the case of the 70 CHRYSANTHEMUMS chrysanthemum, practical experience has corroborated the evidence given by the chemist in his analysis. It will be well to supply the plants with more food than the soil is likely to contain. Professional growers know that lime improves the quality of the plants very materially. This is particularly true of plants grown for cut blooms. A liberal use of lime makes the stems stiffer, the foliage firmer, and gives the blooms more substance. Nitrogen is the element that is generally lacking more than the others, because it is more quickly absorbed, dispelled, or wasted. While lime forms such an important part of the substance of the chrysanthemum, it is rarely supplied at the time the soil is composted, for the reason that the plants do not require it so much when small; and also for the reason that lime, in the form in which it is generally used, has the power to a greater or less extent to set free ammonia, which is one of the forms in which nitrogen is supplied to plants, thus wasting more or less of the most valuable fertilizing element. Lime may now be easily supplied to the plants In several ways. A surface SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING 7 1 dressing of wood ashes, applying a small handful to each large pot, is one way, as this product contains considerable lime. Wood ashes may also contain a small amount of potash. A dressing of air-slaked lime may be given in the same proportion as the wood ashes. The best method is to slake a half bushel of good lime in a barrel. After it is well slaked, fill the barrel with water. Use this lime solution, well stirred, at the rate of one gallon to eight or ten gallons of clear water, giving the plants a watering with it every ten days or two weeks. Assuming that feeding the plants with liquid food was begun July 15th, a watering with lime water is given at the outset. Some liquid manure should be prepared for the next application. Get a fifty-gallon barrel and an old burlap bag, into which put about a bushel and a half of fresh cow manure; that taken from the stables is the best, as it will contain some urine. Put the bag of manure in the barrel and fill the latter with water, allowing it to stand for two or three days, giving the bag a stirring each day. Apply it to the soil in the pots diluted with clear water in 72 CHRYSANTHEMUMS the proportion of one gallon of liquid to five or six gallons of clear water. In using liquid fertilizers of any kind do not apply them when the soil is dry. If such is the case give the soil a watering with clear water before applying the liquid. Never give the plants two successive waterings with liquid fertilizers. Follow a watering with liquid fertilizer by one with clear water. This method not only distributes the feeding through a given period of time, but is much safer. One or two waterings with any fertilizer of a given strength may do no harm, but a third watering of the same strength might cause one or more chemical elements to accumulate in the soil in suffi- cient quantity to cause injury to the plants. The soil is a laboratory where chemical changes are constantly taking place under favourable conditions of moisture and tem- perature, and during the summer it is be- lieved that they are sometimes quite rapid. In the case of chrysanthemums growing in less than a cubic foot of soil — almost completely filled with roots — any material changes are likely to affect the health of the plant, and whether beneficial or detri- SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING 73 mental can.only be determined when probably too late. Unless you desire to experiment, regardless of results, it will be the part of wisdom to err on the side of safety. Clear water, judiciously applied, acts as a restrain- ing and rectifying agent, dissolving, diluting, and distributing the chemicals which the soil contains, as well as bringing them in contact with the roots in the only form (soluble) that they can absorb them, and, with proper drainage, carrying away excess and minimizing the danger of any chemicals accumulating in the soil in sufficient quan- tity to do injury. It is also better to change the kind of liquid fertilizer at least every week. Having given the plants a watering with lime water, followed by a week of watering alternately with cow manure and clear water, some other form of food may be supplied. NITRATE OF SODA This is an excellent medium for supplying the plant with nitrogen, and, when judi- ciously used, will generally benefit the plants greatly. It is entirely safe to use at the rate of one half a tablespoonful (equal to 74 CHRYSANTHEMUMS about one half an ounce) to two gallons of water. NITRATE OF POTASH For supplying the plants with potash, this, commonly known as saltpeti*€, is the best of all materials that can be used for the purpose. It is quite expensive, but, when small quantities are needed and it is used as economically as possible, is the most satisfactory of all the forms of potash. It also contains considerable nitrogen, and may be used in the same manner and the same proportions as nitrate of soda. The plants should by all means have a week of water- ing with this food early in the feeding season. SULPHATE OF AMMONIA This fertilizer contains a greater amount of nitrogen than any other. It is slower in action than nitrate of soda. It is also somewhat heavier, but may be used in the same proportion by weight. COMPLETE CHEMICAL FERTILIZERS These may be used if their strength and character are understood. There are in- SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING 75 numerable brands, containing varying amounts of the three required elements. By the laws of most states, the manu- facturer is compelled to state the formula on the package containing the fertilizers. If any are to be used for chrysanthemums, those should be selected that have a low percentage of nitrogen and reasonably high percentages of phosphoric acid and potash. There are some brands that are now pre- pared expressly for chrysanthemums and sold by seedsmen. The ordinary brands may be safely used at the rate of a half- tablespoonful to two or three gallons of water, while the special brands have special directions given for their use. A fertilizer containing 2 to 3 per cent, of nitrogen, 7 to 8 per cent, of potash, and 9 to 10 per cent, of phosphoric acid can be safely used for a short period, at a strength of one half a tablespoonful to three gallons of water. Sheep manure may be used for one week of watering, making a liquid from it as directed for cow manure, only do not use more than one half bushel of manure to the barrel. It is not necessary that all the different fertilizers here specified shall be used. A y6 CHRYSANTHEMUMS choice of them is optional with the grower, using a reasonable variety for change. These supplemented by light surface dressings will carry the plants to a successful finish. A light surface dressing of fine ground bone meal should be given early in the season. Later, one of good manure should be applied sufficiently heavy to protect any roots that may come to the surface, and about the first of September a small handful of good wood ashes to each pot should prove beneficial. The feeding of bush plants may be continued until the blooms are more than half developed, provided always that the plants give evi- dence by their condition that they are assimilating the food which is given them. CHAPTER VI Growing Exhibition Blooms Time for propagating — First potting — Growing in beds ^ or benches — In boxes — In pots — Six-inch pot plants — Planting — Watering — Staking and tying — General care — Feeding — Prevention of damage by insects and disease — Taking the buds and disbudding — Crown buds — Scalding and dampening of the blooms — Shading — Cutting — Storing — Packing — Shipping — Dressing the blooms — Staging — The results For getting first-class blooms of most varieties for exhibition purposes the plants should be propagated before May ist. While good blooms may be had from plants propagated as late as June ist, the best flowers will generally be produced by plants that have been propagated during the months of March and April, other things being equal. Some varieties will produce decidedly the best blooms from plants prop- agated as early as February. With the exception of a few varieties, however, plants that are propagated from April ist to 20th will produce first-class blooms. Follow the instructions and suggestions given under 77 78 CHRYSANTHEMUMS the head of "Propagation" (Chapter III). Potting should be done as advised for bush plants. As the sun will be much higher and its rays much more powerful at this time, the plants will not necessarily need to be placed so near the glass as is advisable for bush plants, and they will require shading for a few days longer. They should then be given full benefit of the sun and during the hottest part of the day should be sprayed overhead several times with clean water. What is the best method of growing the plants? The answer will depend largely upon contingent circumstances. If the grower must be economical of both space for the plants and labour bestowed upon them, the best method will be to grow them in either solid beds or raised benches. Solid beds are objectionable because they do not allow the grower sufficient control of the roots, generally. If they have to be used, abundant drainage must be provided by placing under the soil in which the plants are to grow at least six inches of broken stone or bricks, or coarse clinkers and cinders from coal. Benches about six inches deep, [-* O rt GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 79 containing from four to five inches of soil, are preferable to solid beds. These must also be provided with abundant openings in the bottom for draining away any excess of water. Growing the plants in boxes that will contain from six to ten plants is a very satisfactory way. In fact, when not more than two or three hundred blooms are required, and the blooms, or at least a part of them, must be kept for some time after they are fully developed, this is the most satisfactory method of all, as when the blooms in any box are nearly matured the box may be taken from the house to the storage room, where the flowers will keep in good condition for a month or more. The plants may also be grown in pots. But save in the case of plants that are grown for the purpose of exhibiting in the pots as they grew, when six-inch pots are used, this is the least desirable method of all, although good blooms may be produced. Plants that are grown to single stem and bloom in six-inch pots are nearly always a feature of chrysanthemum exhibitions. They are also very desirable as house plants and for decorative purposes. For this method 8o CHRYSANTHEMUMS of culture, dwarf-growing varieties should be used and the plants propagated after May 1st. When ready to be shifted from their first pots the plants should be transferred direct to the soil in which they are to grow and flower. Repotting is unnecessary, except where the arrangements for their permanent quarters are not completed, in which case a shift into four- or six-inch pots would be preferable to having them become checked by being pot-bound. The distance apart for planting will depend somewhat upon the character of the varieties. Those having large, heavy foliage require more room than those of less robust growth, but as only strong-growing varieties should ever be grown to any extent for exhibition purposes, the standard distance ought to be made ample for the strongest growers. To get first-class blooms this distance should be ten by twelve inches; rows twelve inches apart, and plants ten inches apart in the rows. If space is limited, eight by ten or ten by ten inches will do, but the first-named distance will give the plants better chance for full development. GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 8 1 The varieties should be so disposed that tall-growing ones will not overgrow dwarf ones. The extreme dwarf-growing varieties should be selected for the side benches, tall ones being grown in centre or back benches. It is best to plant varieties in blocks as much as possible, and early, mid-season and late varieties as much as possible together. When grown in large quantities an entire house or section of a house should be planted with early-flowering varieties, an- other with mid-season, and another with late varieties. BOXES BEST FOR SMALL QUANTITIES If the plants are to be grown in boxes, a convenient size for the purpose is twenty- five inches long, twelve to fifteen inches wide, and eight to ten inches deep, inside measure- ments. This size is easy to handle and will accommodate six plants. Larger boxes that will accommodate ten or twelve plants may be used, but are not convenient for handling, particularly so after the blooms are devel- oped. Cypress is good material to use in making the boxes. Narrow strips, nailed either lengthwise or crosswise of the bottom. 82 CHRYSANTHEMUMS with spaces three fourths of an inch wide, will provide the necessary drainage. The soil for planting should be from six to eight inches deep. This will allow ample room for later surface dressings. When the plants are to be grown in pots, six-, eight-, and ten-inch ones are used. Three plants may be grown to each of the latter size. Before the plants have filled the soil in their first pots completely with roots the beds or boxes should be filled with soil in proper condition as to moisture. Use soil prepared as directed in Chapter 11. The ball of soil in which the young plants are growing should be moist but not wet. For planting in benches or beds have a piece of heavy cord the length of the bed, and stick pins in it at the distance that the rows of plants are to be apart across the beds. Fasten the cord about two inches back of where the first row of plants is to be, at one side of the bed, lengthwise. By placing a plant two inches away from the line, and opposite the point indicated by the pins, the work of planting can be done rapidly. Set the plants sufiiciently deep to allow about one o o ^ o c o 84 CHRYSANTHEMUMS some means must be used to support them in order to get straight stems with good flowers. When the plants are grown in beds or benches there are two methods that may be used. Wires may be stretched lengthwise of the benches above each row of plants and as the plants grow they may be tied to the wires. As they make further growth another wire may be stretched, ten to twelve inches above the first, and this process repeated as often as required. For narrow benches and dwarf- growing varieties this method does very well, but for wide benches and tall-growing varie- ties is very inconvenient, as it is difiicult to get at the plants for syringing, tying, and disbudding. When the plants are grown in considerable quantities the most commonly practised method is to stretch two lines of light wire — No. 1 8 or 20 is heavy enough — to each row of plants lengthwise of the beds, one a few inches above the soil and the other sufliciently high to be considerably above the plants when they have finished their growth. A piece of hemp or jute twine is then tied from one wire to the other by each plant, and as the plants grow they are tied to the twine. Wire or bamboo stakes may be GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 85 used In much the same way, except that the lower wire will not be required. When the plants are grown In pots or boxes, stakes of some kind must be used. For boxes, a good plan is to have stakes of about the required length and place them in the soil at the sides of the box, fastening them in position by driving a small staple over them and into the side of the box. If No. 8 wire is used this will make a firm support. REMOVE SIDE BRANCHES AND BUSHES After the plants have become established they will begin to make growths or branches from the main stem at the axils of the leaves. These must be removed or they will absorb the nourishment that should go toward mak- ing a strong stem for the future bloom. The plant must be compelled to concentrate all Its energies at one point. These side branches are easily pinched out with the thumb and fingers while less than an Inch long, and they should never be allowed to get longer. Always be sure, however, to leave one or two of them at the top of the stem, for the stem will frequently "go blind" — that is, 86 CHRYSANTHEMUMS the growing point will become checked, some- times from no apparent cause, and cease to grow. If all of the side branches should be removed in such case the plant would make no further growth and consequently produce no bloom. In case of the stem going blind, allow the strongest of the upper side branches to grow, and when long enough it should be tied to the support, when it will form the main stem. The surface of the soil should be stirred frequently to allow the sun and air to act upon it; also to kill weeds that will generally start freely. Suckers will soon begin to grow from the base of the stems. These should be kept in subjection by removing a part of them and pinching out the tips of the others. Some varieties produce suckers much more freely than others. Those that do not produce them freely should have but few removed, as it is upon these that the supply of cuttings for the next year depends. The depredations of insects and diseases should be forestalled ; the ounce of prevention is always worth many pounds of cure. A constant and intelligent watchfulness must GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 87 be maintained and treatment given as advised in Chapter I. TIME FOR APPLYING SPECIAL FOODS When planting has been done between May 15th and 20th, the plants, if growing as they should, will be ready for some special feeding about July 15th. As the matter of special feeding has been thoroughly discussed in Chapter V, and as the same general prin- ciples apply to the feeding of all plants, it is only necessary to make slight changes or modifications of the treatment for plants grown for cut flowers. Surface dressings may be used to better advantage for plants growing in beds or boxes than for those growing in pots. The first food should be an application of fine ground bone meal at the rate of one pound to twenty square feet of surface. Cow or sheep manure water may then be used for a week, followed by an application of lime water or of dry air- slaked lime at about double the rate advised for the bone. Sulphate of ammonia should be given next, after which a surface dressing of well-decomposed cow or sheep manure, about one inch thick, should be applied. 88 CHRYSANTHEMUMS When the buds are well formed one week of watering with nitrate of soda may be given, after which this chemical should not be used again. Alternate waterings with cow or sheep manure water, sulphate of ammonia, and nitrate of potash will give sufficient variety of food, and, if properly applied, will produce first-class blooms. These special feedings must always be consistent with good judgment and observation, bearing in mind the admonitions and advice given in Chapter V. SELECTION OF BUDS IMPORTANT About the first of August, sometimes ear- lier, but generally a little later, some of the early-flowering varieties will begin to form what are known to professional florists and gardeners as "crown buds." The growing tip of the plant will appear to divide, and instead of a single stem continuing to grow there will be (generally) three branches growing from the top of the plant. In the axil of these branches will appear a small, elongated bud. This is the crown bud, a very important factor in the produc- tion of first-class chrysanthemum blooms. GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 89 There are always in cultivation a few varie- ties on which the crown bud produces an inferior bloom, but with most varieties blooms produced from crown buds selected at the proper time will prove superior, other things being equal. The question of whether the crown bud shall be used or discarded will occasionally depend upon the variety pro- ducing it, but generally upon the date on which it makes its appearance. This matter will be fully discussed farther on. To get first-class exhibition blooms it is important that the crown bud be selected whenever it appears at the proper time. Blooms of the same variety will often be fully one fourth larger from crown than from terminal buds. They will also be fuller and of better sub- stance, and the stem and foliage will gen- erally be better, although some varieties develop a long bare "neck" just below the bloom when the crown bud is used. There are, however, enough varieties in cultivation that do not have this objectionable feature to allow those that do have it to be reserved for purposes in which the neck will not be objectionable. Blooms of pink varieties sometimes lack colour when crown buds are 90 CHRYSANTHEMUMS used, but this also is not a serious objection, if the bud has not been taken too early. In case it is desired to use the crown bud, all the little branches that have started to grow about it must be removed before they are an inch long, care being taken that the bud is not damaged in doing so. The point of a small knife blade is a good instrument for doing this work. If the branches are not removed, the crown bud will not develop, the branches appropriating all the substance necessary to its development. If the time is not propitious, or if for any other reason it is desired that the crown bud shall be discarded, remove all of the branches that have started from the top of the plant except the strongest and best one, allowing this to remain and develop. Generally this will grow for about three or four weeks, and then produce three or four globular or slightly flattened buds in a compact cluster. These are known as "terminal" buds, so called because they terminate the plant's season of growth, and if they are all removed the plant will produce no flowers. If it is desired to use a terminal bud for producing a bloom, all of the buds of the cluster are GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 9I removed except the central or largest one. The same method may be used for removing these as was advised for the crown bud, and the same care must be taken in order that the remaining bud be not damaged. Thus it will be seen that "taking" the bud is merely- selecting and deciding which bud to retain. The operation of removing the discarded buds and growths is called "disbudding." It should be borne in mind that, in disbud- ding, all buds and growths are to be removed from the given stem of cut bloom plants and from the flowering shoots of bush plants, except the buds that have been taken, or selected, to produce the flower. Disbud- ding should never be done during the heat of the day, as the growth is then wilted and tough, and there is greater danger of damag- ing the remaining buds. If done in the early morning or during cool, cloudy weather, while the growth is firm, the buds will snap out very easily. The question of whether to take the crown bud or allow the plant to grow and develop a terminal bud can only be determined by the judgment of the operator in each individual instance. The date upon which 92 CHRYSANTHEMUMS each appears Is the most important point to be considered, and the earliest date on which crown buds may be taken and produce sat- isfactory blooms will depend largely upon latitude and local conditions. A general principle that may be used as a guide is that cool, dry weather conditions tend to hasten the formation of buds, and vice versa. In the northern hemisphere the chrysanthemum generally forms its buds during the months of August and September. In the southern hemisphere they would be formed in February and March. In the vicinity of the fortieth degree of north latitude, and in the eastern part of the United States, the earliest date on which crown buds of the best mid-season or late exhibition varieties may be taken with reasonable assurance that they will develop good blooms is August 15th, and only a very few varieties will develop satisfactory blooms from buds taken before the 20th. Crown buds of early-flowering varieties may be taken as early as August ist with reasonable assurance of producing good blooms. Farther north, or when grown at a high alti- tude, they might possibly be taken a few days earlier; while farther south they could GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 93 not be taken so early. There is sometimes considerable difference between plants of the same variety grown in the same locality by different growers. Unless the grower is fully acquainted with the character of the va- rieties grown, in respect to the bud develop- ment, it will be a safe rule to take no buds before August 20th. Some varieties will not produce good blooms from buds taken at that date, but they are few. When a crown bud is formed early in August and is not taken, the branch that is let grow will pro- duce what is called a second crown bud. This differs slightly from the first crown bud in having short terminal growths about it, and they show buds at the same time as the crown bud; almost as soon as the latter can be seen. This second crown bud will gener- ally make a first-class bloom. While per- haps not quite so large as blooms from the first crown bud, it will be better finished. As the buds are forming, special efforts should be made to have the plants free from all insects, and also means taken to prevent the development of mildew. During the last half of August and the first half of September the hose should be used freely, 94 CHRYSANTHEMUMS although carefully, on the under side of the leaves to dislodge any red spider that may be lurking there, and measures taken to eradicate all aphides; for if allowed to remain and work their way into the opening blooms, which they will surely do if not destroyed, they will ruin the blooms. As soon as the buds begin to show the first indication of bursting open their scaly covering, all syringing and spraying of the house must be discontinued. If water is allowed to get into the top of the opening bloom there is danger of damping or scalding the tips of the rays or petals. When the blooms are about half open some of the petals on one side of the blooms will be found to be browned, as though they had been scalded by hot water. This has been caused by water accumulating there either from spraying, the drip from the roof, or con- densation caused by too much moisture in the atmosphere during cool nights. All watering must be done as early in the day as possible, and no more water used than can possibly be avoided. Abundant ventilation must be provided night and day in order to keep a good circulation of air above and ^^^^^^H^^ * '^''^^^IBHq •^ 60 .S ^ s a.s CiO S ^ 'o +-I ^1 o 1.2 i 8 &ra ^ m O j:: +-1 ::: 51 ■$ N C 4^ "^ U o 1^ g 'o g sl s s: E X P c w JD •" ^ !>. !>^ t "^IH C +J g