Class Book T'S 1/?^" ^— »..*•>-? :v^^ .^ etN^ eo 15 1906 -^^ K^^ 'y %ri^' 7ic'<^^:^-^-^^t^ 7 Cotton Spinning THE QUESTIONS Set at the may Examination of the City and Guilds of London, 1889, WITH ANSWERS; ALSO, AN APPENDIX OF USEFUL RULES AND EXAMPLES CONNECTED WITH THE TRADE. SECOND EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED; BY .. WM. WHITTAM, Jr., ist Honors Certificate, Cotton Manufacture, ist Honors, Cotton Spinning. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PROVIDENCE, R. 1.: C. A. M. praray & Co., . Bannigan Building. CHARLOTTE, N. C. : C. A. M. Praray & Co., Tryon Street. The J. C. Hall Company, Printers, Providence, R. \. .W5 14 ^^x 71 PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION. This book is primarily intended for the use of students of Cotton Spinning, to aid them in their preparation for the examinations in this subject, held by the City and Guilds of London. Technically education has made rapid strides in this country during the last decade, and this has given rise to many excellent works on the various technological subjects, and also to the forma- tion of classes for the study of these subjects. Though it may be, as has been asserted — and not without reason — that the subject of cotton spinning has been dealt with in a manner too abstract and speculative, and that too great value is often attached to theoretical knowledge ; still, it cannot be doubted that a knowledge of the elements of the theory is of considerable value to those who are mainly concerned, with practical results. Technical classes and text books a^ undoubtedly valuable aids to the acquisition of a sound knowledge of the science, but it is to the factory that the student must apply himself for the most useful part of his training, and text books should be used as guides to the intelligent study of the different departments. In asserting this we seek to do no more than support the old truism, ''experientia docef The answers to the examination questions are as complete as the limits of the works will allow, and in many of them there will be found much that the questions do not ask for, the object being to make the work more useful than it would have been, had the bare and brief answers required been given, in fact they are intended to be not only of use to the student, but it is hoped that they will be found of value to the practical man. In the appendix there is a treatise on ' ' Cone Drums, ' ' by the present writer, reprinted from the "Textile Educator," also various rules, with examples, which will be found useful to those who occupy, or are aspiring to, the more responsible positions in a cotton spinning mill. W. W., Jr. PrKSTOn, October, 1889. PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION. In submitting a second edition of this work, which with the ex- ception of the last few pages was originally published in England, the author trusts that it may find a place among the textile works of the country ; and if it should assist in even a small degree toward a more thorough knowledge of the science of cotton spin- ning, its object will have been attained. A glossary is introduced to explain several terms used in the work which are more or less local to the Eancashire cotton trade. W. Whittam, Jr. Chari^otte;, N. C, April 9, 1898. A. — Unripe Fibre, B, — Half ripe imperfectly developed Fibre, C — Fully matured and ripe Fibre, (Longitudinal view). Fig. 2. D. — Unripe Fibre, E. — Half ripe imperfectly developed Fibre, F. — Fully matured and ripe Fibre, (Transverse sections). COTTON SPINNING; The Qjiesiion set at the May Examitiation of the City and Guilds of Lo7idon, i88g, 2vith Ansivers. ORDINARY GKADE. Question i. — Describe a cotton fibre in words or by sketch, and say how its natural configuration becomes use- ful in making yarn. Answer. — From the illustration figs, (i and 2). which represents a magnified typical cotton fibre, both longitudi- nally and in transverse section, it will be seen that a cotton fibre somewhat resembles a flat twisted ribbon with corded edges, when viewed longitudinally. In section it appears as an irregular hollow cylinder with thick lamina- ted walls. It is, in fact, an elongated cellular filament, having thick, well-defined walls, and a central cavity ex- tending almost to its apex; the walls being thickened, and the cavity partially filled with substances termed secondary deposits. It is greatest in diameter at the base, or that end by which it has been attached to the seed ; from this point its diameter is approximately uniform for about three- fourths of its length, when the central cavity disappears,* and it gradually tapers to a point. The mean length of the fibre varies in different species from 1.80 inches in the finest Sea Islands to .85 inches in East Indian cottons. The number of convolutions or twists per inch vary from 500 to 800. Its diameter is subject to similar variations, being about tsW inch in the former and ttU of an inch in the latter variety. It consists entirely of a substance known to scientists as "cellulose," the chemical formula for which is C^ H'° 0\ i. e., 6 atoms of carbon chemically combined with five molecules of water. The natural configuration of the fibre becomes useful in making yarn owing to the fact that in the spinning process, by the action of the spindle, the convolutions of the fibre are interlocked; the ridge or corded edge of one fibre being laid in the depression of another, thus enabling the thread to withstand a much greater tensil strain than could other- wise be the case. Q. 2. — Describe the difference between a perfectly developed and ripe cotton fibre, an unripe one, and an im- perfectly developed one. A. — The answer to the previous question describes a fully-developed and ripe cotton fibre. An unripe fibre differs from one that is fully ripe in having few, if any, convolutions, and the corded edges of the ripe fibre are also absent, and it appears as a thin, attenuated, semi- transparent, ribbon-like filament of homogenous structure. It is also much weaker and more brittle than the ripe fibre, and is incapable of taking dyes, except mechanically, ?'. e., on the surface. Many defects in colored fabrics are fre- quently attributable to the presence of an abnormal proportion of these unripe and imperfectly developed fibres. Figs. I and 2 give a magnified view of this class of fibre, both longitudinally and in section. The imperfectly devel- oped fibre, while showing some evidence of internal structure, does not possess so many " twists," and these are more irregular than those seen in the fully-developed variety; the fibre is not so round or strong, and the thickness of the corded edges is less, and while the cylin- drical structure is apparent, it is not so marked as it is in the case of the typical fibre. Figs, i and 2 also give repre- sentations of this kind of fibre. Q. 3. — Give a brief description of the following cottons, and say what yarns they are most suitable for: Sea Isl- and, Middling American, Brown Egyptian, and Hingunghat. A. — Sea Islands cotton is the finest cotton grown, having the longest staple of any variety. The fibres are very regular and of small diameter. It is a very silky staple of a creamy tinge, and has a large number of twists or convolutions per inch. It is suitable for the finest yarns spun, from i6o's upwards. Its price is generally from I2d. to 2 2d. per pound, (equal to 24 to 44 cents American,) according to its cpiality, and the scarceness or otherwise of the crop. Middling American is a most useful cotton of a white color ; generally it is the most in demand of the American cottons, and is fairly clean. It possesses one peculiar characteristic, which is its adaptability to mix with cottons having a longer or shorter staple than its own; suitable for counts ranging from 40's to 6o's twist or weft. Price from 5td. to 6Kl. per pound. (11] to 13^- cents American.) Brown Egyptain is a long stapled cotton of good quality, having a comparatively large percentage of short fibres. As its name implies, it is of a brown color, which is caused by the presence of a natural substance known as " endo- chrome, " which turns brown on exposure to the action of the sun after the bursting of the pods. It is of a soft silky nature, and ranks next to Sea Islands in quality. Counts, from So's to 140's, Price from 6id. to 8d. per pound. (13 to 16 cents American.) Hingunghat. — An East Indian cotton of a white color. For a cotton of this class it is fairly regular and rather soft, therefore most suitable for weft ; will spin up to 36's weft. Price from 4.^d. to 5fd. per pound. (9 to 11^ cts. American.) Note. — Cotton values have depreciated very materially since the preceeding answer was written. Q. 4. — The bale-opener is a new machine recently intro- duced Describe it and say in what respect its use is advantageous. A. — The bale opener is a machine used to prepare cotton for mixing, and for the opener or Hopper feeder. Under the old system of cotton mixino- the cotton is taken from the bale, pulled by hand, and thrown on to the mixing. This operation is often negligently performed by the " mixers," and the result is that the cotton is quite often thrown upon the mixing in hard lumps, and when these are passed through the opener they cause bars to be broken, and the cotton is not opened nor the dirt extracted to the same extent as would be the case if the cotton were pulled or broken in a proper manner. These causes have led to the construction of the machine known as the "bale opener" or " bale breaker," which is designed and adapted to perform this important work efificiently. The following is a description of the machine, as generally con- structed. The machine has a feeding lattice, 6 feet long, from centre to centre of the lattice blocks ; this lattice delivers the cotton to the first pair of rollers, which are named the collecting rollers, revolving at about 4.9 revolu- tions per minute. From these rollers the cotton is passed through three pairs of breaker rollers successively, a well proportioned draft being provided between each pair, thus obtaining all the features of hand pulling, and also ensur- ing the cotton from each bale being equally and well pulled. The approximate respective velocities of the rollers are : — 1st pair or Collecting Rollers 4.9 rev. per min. 2nd " 1st Breaker " 10.4 3rd " 2nd " " 47 " 4th " 3rd "(delivery)" 229 " " The cotton is taken from the bales in la3/ers and laid upon the creeper feed lattice of the " breaker," and by the action of the collecting and breaker rollers it is delivered in good 10 condition for spreading on the opener lattice. In addition to the cotton being pulled, all hard substances are removed, passing down between the rollers to the floor. This ma- chine is admirably adapted for long stapled cottons. Another machine of this type is made which is more specially designed and adapted for manipulating pressed East Indian Low-grade American and similar cottons. It has only two pairs of breaker rollers, eight inches in diame- ter, the second pair of which deliver tlie cotton to a cylinder 1 8 inches in diameter. This machine also runs at a some- what greater speed than the former. Q. 5. — Which is better, small mixings of cotton or large ? Give the reasons for your opinion, and briefly describe how you would proceed to mix, say 20 bales of Low Middling Orleans and 10 bales of Dhollerah. A. — Large mixings of cotton will produce better results than small ones. The advantages to be derived from a large mixing as compared with a small one are numerous, and of an impor- tant character to the cotton spinner. The mixing should be as laro^e as circumstances — such as size of mixino- room, capital at disposal, or state of cotton markets — render ad- visable. A mixing of such magnitude as to last a month is to be desired in preference to one that will only last a week or a few days, since every new mixing will cause some appreciable difference in either color, strength, or cleanli- ness of the yarn, or perhaps in all of these points. Another point not to be overlooked is that the cotton having been subjected to enormous pressure in baleing, it is clotted into hard lumps, and being somewhat loosened in the process of mixing, and left for some time, — in the case of a large mixing — it expands further, and thus renders the work of the opener less difficult than it would other'Cvise be. If any superfluous moisture be present it will evaporate, II and thus leave the cotton in a more suitable condition for manipulation in subsequent operations. In mixing the 20 bales Low Middling Orleans and 10 bales Dhollerah given in the question, the mode of proced- ure calculated to produce the best results would be to make two mixings, one of Orleans and one of Dhollerah ; open say the first 20 bales Orleans, and from the first bale form a layer by shaking its contents loose upon the floor — if hand mixed — so as to cover the area allotted to this mixings. Other layers should then be formed, one from each bale, and superimposed in regular order. After having mixed the 10 bales Dhollerah in a similar manner, each mixing should be passed through the opener separately by taking vertical sections of same. In this manner the different grades of cotton frequently found in individual bales, or in different bales of the same lot, will be thoroughly blended. The laps formed from each of these mixings should then be "doubled" in the creel of the intermediate scutcher in the ratio two of Orleans to one of Dhollerah. Q. 6. — From what cottons would you spin a medium quality of the following yarns: — 16/24's, 32/36's, 40's, Go's, 8o's, all twist or warp yarns? A. — The cottons from which the above counts would be spun are dependent upon the purposes for which the yarn is required; if it is to be introduced into goods required to take a large percentage of size, a harsh, intractable cotton, producing a soft, oozy, loosely constructed yarn, would be selected; but if the yarn is required for goods which are only to be sized sufificiently to enable them to stand the strain and abrasion of weaving operations, i. e., light goods, then a fine, silky cotton, producing a strong, compact and firm yarn, would recommend itself. The following are some of the cottons adapted for a 12 medium quality of the twist yarns enumerated in the question, due reg'ard .being paid to the above mentioned conditions: — 16/24's may be spun h'om Dharwar, Dhollerah, or Oomerawuttee, either mixed together or alone. 32/36's. — The better grades of the above cottons may be mixed with the strong, low classes of Americans, as Texas or Georgia. 40's, — The middling varieties of Orleans, Texas, &c., alone, or mixed with some such South American cotton as soft Peruvian, would form a good mixing for these counts. 6o's — The higher grades of American, with some of the S. A. cottons, as Maranham, Ceara, Santos, Pernams, &c., would be suitable. 8o's. — A mixing composed of good, fair brown Egyptian and Peeler (American), would produce good results for these counts. Q. 7. — What number of turns per inch, medium twist would be proper for i6's, 24's, 32's, 40's, 60s " twist," and 24's, 36's, 40's 50's, 6o's wefts? Give the rule by which you find these results. A. — The proper turns per inch for a medium quality of the following counts are: — Twi ST Yarns. Weft Yarns. Counts. Turns. Counts. Turns. i6's = 15.00 24's = 15-92 24's = ^^-37 36's = 19.50 32's =^ 2 1,2 1 40's = 20.55 40's = 23.71 50's = 22.96 6o's = 29.04 60' s = 25-17 T/ie turns per hich given in this answer are for mule spun yarns. The rule by which these results are obtained is as follows: 13 Multiply the square root of the counts by j.2§ for medium weft, and by ^ .y ^ for medium tzvist yarns, ajid the quotient will be the turns per iiich required. Example: — Say we require the turns for 36's weft. Then v/36 =^ 6. .•. By rule 6 x 3.25 = 19.50 turns per inch required. Ag'ain, say we require the turns for i6's twist. Then, as before, V/i6 = 4. .•. 4 X 3.75 = 15.00 = turns required. For extra twist yarns the general rule is to multiply the square root of the counts by 4 for twist, and by 3.50 for weft yarns. Q. 8. — What are "neps" in cotton, and how and in what machines are they most liable to be made? A. — Neps are small white specks, sometimes found in cotton, and we may define a nep as a small tangled mass of cotton fibres, so interwined and entangled that it is im- possible to disentangle them in the process of cotton spinning, and it is also very dil^cult to extricate them from the properly opened fibres. There are three machines used in the preparation of cotton, which are mainly respon- sible for the production of this objectionable feature, namely, the Saw Gin — a machine whose function it is to separate the cotton from the seed on which it grows, and to which it adheres very tenaciously, — The Opening and scutching machinery, and the Carding Engine. The Saw Gin is a machine largely used in America, and neps are found in a larger proportion in this class of cotton than in any other. If the saws in this machine are improperly set, if the machine is fed too thickly, or the cleaning brush does not clear off all the cotton from the saws at each revolution, "Neps" will be the result. If in the construction or man- agement the openers or scutchers are not made to pass on 14 every particle of cotton struck off from the feed rollers at each revolution of the beater, but allows some of the cotton to be carried round the beater and past the feed rollers and grate bars a second time, this objectionable feature would be found in the resultant laps. There are many things in the Carding Engine which will cause Neps to be produced, the four principals, of which are: — I St. — Overloading the Wire. 2nd. — Want of Stripping. 3rd. — Want of Grinding. 4th. — W^ant of Setting. I St.— If the card is overloaded. /. e., if we have very heavy carding, we should probably find the web to be neppy. 2nd.— If the stripping through any cause has been neg- lected, we should have the same result. od.—If the wire be dull through some part of the carding surfaces being in contact, we should find the same defect, which would be remedied by grinding the wire sharp. 4th.— If the card has been working for some time and the setting been neglected, we should find "neppy" carding as the result. Q. 9._In what respect has the revolving flat card proved itself superior to the roller card; and what is the difference in appearance between yarn produced from the roller card and the revolving flat card ? A.— The superiority of the revolving flat over the roller and clearer card is manifest in the more approximate parallel arrangement of the fibres as seen in the web as it leaves this machine than in that from the roller card; it is also much more gentle in its treatment of the cotton, and does not injure the fibre, nor break up the seeds, motes, etc., so much as the roller card does, but allows them to 15 get embedded in the wires and spaces between the flats until they come up to be stripped off by the comb; whereas in the roller card some of the bearded seeds and motes that have passed the dirt rollers are delivered by the' cylin- der to the first roller, and then taken from that and deliv- ered to the cylinder again, when they are again carried forward to the first roller, or, if they escape being caught again by the first roller, they are passed on to the second, and are again taken from the roller by the clearer and given to the cylinder, and so on, this process being repeated by each roller in succession, from the first to the last, which causes them to break up, pass on, and ultimately to be incorporated with the yarn. The former machine also extracts more immature, weak, and unripe fibre, which, if it entered into the structure of the yarn, would greatly diminish its strength and deterior- ate its quality. It also produces a more level, clear, and strong sliver than the latter. Another point to which the revolving flat owes its superiority over the roller card lies in tlie fact that in the former machine the flats are contin- uously bringing clean wire to work at the position where it is most required, and where the work to be performed is the heaviest, z. e., at the back of the cylinder. From these facts we should expect to find the difference in appearance between yarn produced from the roller card and that pro- duced from the revolving flat to be more level, clean, strong, and more compactly formed silky-looking thread from the flat card than from the roller card; the yarn from the latter card would appear oozy and soft, anci would con- tain a comparatively greater quantity of foreign matter, bearded motes, etc., which spoil its appearance and depre- ciate its value. Q, lo. — How is cotton injured if passed through too many heads of drawing, and what is the effect upon the yar ■n? i6 A. — Cotton, when passed throiio'h too many heads of drawing, or, as it is technically termed, "overdrawn," has its natural configuration destroyed and the fibres are strained, whereby the yarn is weakened, owing to the re- duction in the number of the convolution of the fibres allowing them to slide over each other, when subjected to strain, much more readily than would be the case if the fibres composing the thread were in their normal condition. It is also rendered inelastic, unlevel, or cloudy in appear- ance, and its quality is generally deteriorated. When it has been passed through too many heads of drawing there is also, as a result of this evil, a considerable financial loss, owing to the power, supervision, labor expended, waste made, etc., being in excess of that which is absolutely nec- essary to produce a good yarn. Q. II. — How is the slubbing, roving, and yarn injured when the top rollers are badly covered, or the coverings channelled by wear; and when the flutings of the bottom rollers are worn? A. — The effects produced by defective top or bottom rollers such as referred to in the question are the same upon the slubbing and roving as well as the yarn, therefore if we consider the effects produced upon the latter, we shall inclucie the two former. There are several points in the preparation and covering of top leather rollers which re- quire careful attention, and which, if neglected, will have an injurious effect upon the yarn. If the piecings either of the leathers or cloths are badly made, they will cut the thread at every revolution of the roller, causing a weak, irregular yarn, and making much waste. The ends of the rollers should be finished off smooth, as, if left rough, breakages, and consequently uneven yarn, is the result. If the leathers or the cloths on both bosses of the rollers (if fast-bossed rollers) are not of the same thickness, they 17 will cause one boss of the roller to have a greater diameter than the other, and since their motion is acquired entirely by contact with the bottom roller, there will be an amount of abrasion in one of the bosses which will give the yarn a raw, cloudy appearance as it leaves the front roller, and cause cut, soft, and consequently weak yarn to be produced. If the top rollers were in good condition when covered, but have become channelled by wear, they are unable to grip the fibres of the thread properly, when by the movement of the traverse they come into the depression, and are thus prevented from drawing them in a regular and even manner, and as a result they produce, as in the previous case, a soft uneven, and weak thread. Now, as mentioned previously, the motion of the top rollers is derived solely from the contact with the botto.m ones, and if the flutings of the latter are worn, they have not the same hold on the leathers as when the flutings are good; therefore there is a greater liability in these rollers to slip, which liability is still further increased if they require oiling or are dirty, and the same results will be produced as in the previous cases. Hence we find that whether all or any one of these defects be present, the result is a soft, irregular, and weak or cut yarn. Note. — The eco7ioiny and importance of using the best qualities of roll skins and cloth cannot be too strongly etnphasized. Q. 12. — What advantage, if any, is obtained by spinning yarns from a double roving ? Are there any disadvantages attending the process ? If so, state them. A. — The principal advantage obtained by spinning yarn from a double roving is, that it conduces to the equalization of the thread by introducing twice the number of doublings that would be obtained from a single roving, and we thus obtain a more level and uniform thread from this mode of procedure ; but when we consider that all drawing- after the parallelism of the fibres is completed — which we may reas- onably suppose it to be when it gets to the roving— is injurious, and weakens the thread; so in spinning yarn from double roving there is the disadvantage of having twice the amount of draft required for single roving, and this must have some tendency to weaken the yarn. Again, in using a double roving, if from any .cause one of the ends of roving should break, or if the bobbin runs off unnoticed by the attendant, then a quantity of " single" will pass on into the yarn, which is a very objectionable feature in sub- sequent processes. This cannot take place in yarns spun from single roving. The cost of production is also appre- ciably increased by the use of double roving. Q. 13. — Describe the main points of difference between the doubling ring frame and the ''twining jenny," and say which produces the best and greatest quantity of work. A. The machines named in this question are modifica- tions of the ring spinning frame and the mule respectively, and the principal point of difference between them is that while the former machine is continuous the latter is inter- mittent in its action. In the first-named machine the creel is stationary, and the yarn is passed from the delivery rollers to a traveller revolving round a ring fixed in a lift- ing rail. This traveller gives the requisite drag to the yarn, and the cop or bobbin is formed by the upward and down- ward traverse of the lifter rail. In the "twining jenny" the spindles are fixed in a stationary " bank," while the creel is movable, and during the operation of twisting the yarns the creel retires from the spindles, and when it has arrived at the end of its outward traverse or stretch the operation of " backing off " is performed, and then it returns to its former position at the spindle bank. During its return or inward traverse the yarn is wound on the spindles or tubes by 19 means of a copping arrangement somewhat similar in prin- ciple to that found in the mule, the faller guiding" the yarn so as to form a cop, and the " counter faller " supplying the necessary drag. This class of machine is used for either dry or wet doubling. Occasionally the converse arrange- ment of spindles and creels to the foregoing is found, the creel being fixed and the spindles movable as in the mule spinning frame ; but this is seldom the case except the "jenny" has been previously used for spinning purposes. The ring doubling frame is the most productive, and also produces the best work, except for very fine counts, when the " twining jenny " is preferred owing to its being more gentle in its treatment of the yarn. Wet doubling is gen- erally performed on the former machine. Q. 14. — On what terms is cotton usually bought in Liv- erpool, and yarn sold in Manchester? A. — The terms on which cotton is usually bought in Liverpool are : Ten days credit, less i^ per cent, discount. If the payment is delayed beyond the ten days allowed five per cent, interest is charged on the amount of the account, and conversely, if the account is paid before the expiration of ten days 5 per cent, interest is allowed. It is also specified that falsely packed, damaged, or un- merchantable cotton will be allowed for at the value of the sound cotton at the date of return, if such return be made and the claim sent in within ten days and three months from the date of invoice. The terms on which yarn is sold in Manchester are: 14 day's credit, less 2^ per cent, discount. These terms apply to the home trade. For the terms of foreign trade see answer to question 1 7 honors. Carriage or freight on yarns is generally paid by the buyer, except it is sent to Manches- ter, in which case it is delivered carriage or freight prepaid. 20 HONORS GRADE. Question i. — Name the chief cotton markets of the world in which the raw material is sold to the trade ; and say what sections of the trade are supplied by each. Answer. — These are : — Liverpool, which supplies all sec- tions of the home trade. A considerable number of bales are also sold in this market for exportation. Bremen : — One of the three free towns in Germany, in the kingdom of Prussia, supplies the trade of that country, which consists chiefly of medium (American) counts. About one-fifth of the total consumption of cotton is spun into low numbers from East India cotton. Havre : — On the Seine in France, is the source from which the spinners of that country are supplied. The ma- jor portion of the trade is engaged in spinning low numbers (Surats), but a considerable quantity of medium counts are also spun. Amsterdam : — Supplies Holland, whose trade is some- what similar to that of France. These constitute the principal European markets. The American section of the trade is supplied in New York and some of the various markets in or about the cotton growing states, as New Orleans, Charleston, etc. The East Indian trade obtains its raw material chiefly in Bombay. The mills remote from this market are supplied from the markets in their more immediate vicinity. Q. 2. — How and through what agency is cotton bought in Liverpool ? Describe the function of the buying and the selling broker, and their respective duties. A. — Cotton is bought in Liverpool by spinners or their representatives, who invariably employ " brokers" to act as their agents. These brokers generally act exclusively either 21 as "buying brokers" or as " sellino- brokers," and their function is to serve as a connection between the importer and the spinner or purchaser. A buying broker is one who buys the cotton for the spinner. A selHng broker is one who sells the cotton to the buying broker acting on behalf of the spinner. The duties of the buying broker are, to attend to the interests of the firm for whom he is acting ; to keep them informed as to the state of the market, its fluctuations and current prices ; to submit to the purchaser samples of the various cottons in the market, and the prices of the same ; and to attend to the due delivery, marking, and weighing of the bales, and to see that they are up to sample. He also receives payment for the cotton from the purchaser, and transmits it to the selling broker, who in turn pays it to the importer. All claims for falsely packed or unmer- chantable cotton must be forwarded to the buying broker. The duties of the selling broker are to act in a similar manner for the individual or firm who place their cotton with him to sell, and to dispose of the same on the most advantageous terms. Cotton brokers are remunerated at the rate of one-half per cent. " brokerage " or commission on the amount of each transaction ; in the case of the buying broker the brokerage is paid by the purchaser, and the selling broker is paid by the importer of the cotton. Q. 3. — Some persons combine in themselves the duties of both buying and selling brokers ; is it prudent from a spinner's point of view to deal with such ? A. — It is certainly not prudent for a spinner to deal with such persons as those mentioned in the question, for it will be to the advantage of these " double brokers " to sell the cottons of those persons for whom they are acting as sell- ing brokers to the spinners for whom they are buying, and 22 to get the best price for them, and they will thus obtain brokerage from both parties for one transaction. Persons who combine in themselves the duties of both buying and selling brokers are the exception and not the rule, and the bulk of the selling is done by one class of brokers, and the bulk of the buying by another class. This is an arrange- ment which is calculated to be to the advantage of all the parties concerned, since it secures to the seller an agent who will act just as if he were selling his own cotton, and the buyer is insured a servant whose interests will be identical with his own as much as if the broker himself were the owner of a mill, and was purchasing the cotton for himself. Q. 4. — What are the various terms on which cotton is bought and sold in Liverpool ; and what do the letters c. i. f . indicate ? A. — The first part of the answer to question 14, Ord., and question 5, Hon., are a sufhcient answer to that part of this question which requires the terms on which cotton is bought and sold In Liverpool. The letters c. I. f. indicate " costs," " insurance," and " freight." O. 5. — What are "spot," "arrivals," and "future" cot- tons ; and what are the conditions governing a transaction In them ? A. — " Spot," " arrivals," and "futures," are three terms which may be said to designate the position of cottons ten- dered for sale In the Liverpool market. The meaning of the term " spot," or spot cottons, is obvious. It Is applied to cotton actually at Liverpool, I. e., the seller may be said to be tendering goods actually In his possession. The conditions governing transactions in them are ten days' credit, less i^ per cent, discount. If paid before or after the ten days 5 per cent, interest is allowed or charged. The term "arrivals" is applied to cotton in transit, either at sea or shipped on vessels before departure. The pur- chase of this class of cotton is similar to obtaining goods on order. The conditions for " arrivals" are identical with those of spot cottons, except that the seller can demand payment before delivery if he thinks proper to do so. Also the cotton must be taken direct from the ship's side to the mill, or if warehoused it is at the expense of the buyer. " Futures" are cottons bought for delivery in certain for- ward months. They are bought on a basis, of say 6d. (12 cents American) per pound for Middling American. For example, say a spinner buys in March a certain quantity of cotton, on the above basis, to be delivered in September, he will then have to pay or receive, on the weekly settle- ment day, the difference in the market value of the month purchased. This is done weekly until the day of delivery, which may be at any time during the month in which it is contracted 10 be delivered ; it is then at the buyer's option whether he will have the actual Middling American or receive or pay the difference in value. If the seller can- not deliver the cotton if demanded, he must pay the difference in value, and in addition a fine fixed by the Liverpool Cotton Association. The other conditions are similar to those of " spot" cotton. If a spinner buys what are called " distant futures," he may be contracting for cotton which is not yet even planted or sown ; which, in fact, only exists upon paper. A person who buys "futures" is sometimes termed a "bull," while the seller of the futures is termed a " bear." O. 6. — Describe a cotton fibre by sketch or words ; give your opinion as to how its convolutions are formed, what 24 functions the fibres serve in the natural propagation of the plant, and how the convolute structure of the fibre becomes useful in making yarn ? A. — For a description of the cotton fibre, and also for an explanation of the manner in which its convolute structure becomes useful in making yarn, reference must be made to the answer to question i Ord. Grade ; and the only two points in this question which require further notice are, first, that which refers to the manner in which the convolu- tions of the fibres are formed, and second, the functions of the fibre in the natural propagation of the plant. Then, firstly, as to the formation of its convolutions : When the seed has reached maturity the secretion of the vital fluid is arrested, and the supply to the fibre is there- fore stopped; and that fluid or "sap" which is contained in the tube of the fibre is absorbed by the seed, and a vacuum is thus formed commencing at the outer free ex- tremity of the fibre. Following the retreat of the fluid is the collapse of the tube owing to the pressure of the atmosphere ; and, as a consequence of this, the fibre is twisted on its own axis at its apex. This process proceed- ing simultaneously in the majority of the fibres contained in the pod produces such a distortion of their primary arrangement as to burst the capsule, and the process of twisting is then rapidly completed under the favorable in- fluence of the direct action of the sun's rays. Secondly, with regard to the functions of the fibre in the natural propagation of the plant. They are as follows : I St. They serve as a protection to the seeds. 2nd. When the seed is tn a proper condition for germination it is liber- ated from the parent plant, and the fibres attached to it serve as a parachute, presenting a light surface to the action of the winds, by which means it is distributed to situations favorable to its growth and more perfect devel- opment. 25 Q. 7. — What is the difference in origin, character, and value between " good fair brown " and " good fair white " Egyptian cottons ; and for what yarns are they respectively best adapted ? A. — " Good fair" brown Egyptian cotton is an indigen- ous variety belonging to the species Gossypium HerbaceiLin ; it may be described as a long-stapled cotton of good qual- ity. As its name implies, it is of a brown shade, which is due to the presence of " endochrome," as explained in an- swer to question 3 Ord. G. It is of a fine silky nature, and is the most regular cotton grown in the diameter of its fibres. Another noticeable feature of this cotton is that in it there is found a more considerable quantity of short, im- perfectly developed fibres than in any other variety. White Egyptian is grown from the exotic varieties G. Hirsutum and G. Peruvia^mm. It is a fairly regular cot- ton, rather harsh, white in color, and most suitable for weft. The price of this grade of brown Egyptian may be taken at about 7gd. per pound, and the same grade of white Egyptian is valued at about 6id. per pound, so that the difference in their values is about 8.77 per cent. Number or Counts: — Brown, 8o's. to 140's. " " " : — White up to 80's. Q. 8. — Is it always good to mix cottons in one " stack" or mixing ; or is it sometimes better to blend each variety separately, and afterwards mix in the lap machine? If sometimes one, and sometimes the other, state the con- ditions which make either the one or the other preferable. A. — It is not advisable in all cases to mix cottons in one " stack " or mixing, but it is sometimes better to blend each variety separately, and afterwards mix in the scutcher. In order to determine when either of these methods will be best, it will be of advantage to inquire into the objects 26 souo-ht to be attained in the mixing process, and also why this^process is necessary. Cotton which has been grown upon the same plant is always found to be m different stages of maturity, and it is a matter of impossibility to so assort the fibres that all those of one degree of maturity and structure may be relegated to one lot, and this being the case in the individual plant it is much more so in cotton which has been grown upon different plants, and owing to the fact that cotton grown upon different plantations is often packed in the same bale without suf^cient regard to classification, this difference in quality is increased to such an extent that it is highly desirable to mix all cottons even of the same class in a ''stack," in order to secure their proper assimilation. Again, in some instances it is neces- sary to blend cottons having very different characteristics to produce a special class of yarn; or it may be that the current prices of the different classes of cotton, suitable for making any counts of yarn, make it desirable to lay down a mixing of two or three varieties having somewhat different features, and since the primary object of mixing is to so blend the cottons as to ensure the production of a good yarn uniform in color and structure, the method of mixmg in one "stack" would be resorted to when all the mixing is of one class of cotton ; or if two varieties are to be incorporated, and they are in such a proportion as to make it impossible to mix them in the lap machine, they would be blended in one mixing. Mixing in the scutcher or picker : — If two or three classes of cotton are to be used, possess- ing different properties of color or length of staple, and they are in some such ratio as 2:2, 3:1, 2:1, or 2:1:1. the method of mixing in the lap machine would recommend itself each varietv having been previously blended sepa- rately Another case in which mixing in the lap machine would be adopted is when we have two lots of cotton, one dirty and the other clean. If these lots are blended m one 27 mixing the impurities of the dirtier cotton will be scattered through the whole bulk of both lots, whereas if each lot is passed through the opener separately, a large portion of the impurities are extracted previous to mixing, and the result is that more of the impurities are removed in the aggregate than there would be if they were mixed in a single "stack" or mixing. O. 9. — What would be the consequence of mixing cot- tons of irregular length of staple in each of the successive stages of opening, lap forming, carding, drawing, slubbing, roving, and spinning ; and what would be the character of the yarn produced? A. — This question can be dealt with more readily without too frequent repetition if taken in the four sections into which it appears naturally divisable, viz. : — (i) Opening and Lap Forming. (2) Carding. (3) Drawing. (4) Slubbing, Roving, and Spinning. Opening and Lap Forming. — The results which would arise from the use of the mixing assumed in the question, in the machines of the opening and scutching department are, the fibres would either be broken or else passed on insufTficiently opened, owing to the impossibility of setting the feed rollers at the proper distance from the beater for both long and short staples, at the same time. The long- fibres would be broken if the rollers were set for the short staple, and the second result would be found if the rollers were set for the long staple. Another evil result generally found when a mixing of this class is used, is that the shorter fibres, being of a less specific gravity, they are carried forward by the exhaust current or fan draft more rapidly than the longer ones, they thus form a thin sheet on 28 the top dust cage which in the succeeding" process of card- ing causes the laps to " Hck," or " spHt," as it is variously termed ; and as a result irregularities will be found in the sliver produced by the card, and the amount of waste made will be much increased. The speeds of the beaters and the angles of the grate bars also require to be modified for long or short stapled cottons, and this cannot be done when they are both being passed through the same machine at the same time. Cardinc;. — In the carding stage the dif^culty of setting the feed rollers again arises, more waste is made, and a weaker sliver is produced. The shorter fibres also make the card to require more frequent strippings, and if this is not attended to, the wire becomes rapidly overloaded. This will cause much of the longer-stapled cotton to be formed into " neps," which are a most objectionable feature. See question 8, Ord. G. Drawing. — In the drawing frame the setting of the draw- ing rollers at the proper working distances is the principal diiificulty encountered, for since we cannot set them for both classes of staple, if we set them for the long fibre some of the shorter ones will fall out and cause a large amount of waste, and if we set them for the shorter staple the longer fibres will be broken, and an abnormal quantity of top or flat waste will be made. In this case the only plan to be adopted is to set the rollers in an intermediate posi- tion, and even then the result will be a weak and cloudy sliver, when compared with one that has been produced from a regular mixing. Slubbing, Roving, and Spinning. — The results obtained from this mixing, as seen in the slubbing, roving, and spin- ning machines, may be taken together, as they are generally analogous. The difBculty of setting the drawing rollers, as explained previously, is encountered in these machines, and the same 29 undesirable results are found in the work produced. Further, during the operation of twisting, the longer fibres yet remaining unbroken are formed into the centre or core of the thread, and the shorter fibres are loosely twisted round these, not being properly incorporated into the thread, and contributing little if anything to its strength. This defect, when present in the yarn, is termed " crackers." From these facts we should infer that the yarn produced from such a mixing would be weak, oozy, or loosely com- pacted and irregular, and of a generally inferior character. Q. lo. — Is the mechanical mixing of cotton to be pre- ferred to hand mixing, or the reverse ? State the grounds of your opinion. A. — Mechanical mixing is generally preferred to hand mixing, owing mainly to its being more economical. The mechanical method is also an improvement on hand mixing, since it dispenses to a certain extent with the "manual" factor in the problem, which is always a variable one, as the "mixers" do not constantly pay that attention to their duties which they ought to do ; but sometimes instead of putting the bales down in regular layers, they will throw down the cotton indiscriminately, and consequently it is not mixed or blended in a proper manner. In mechanical mix- ing, the cotton being deposited from above, it devolves upon the attendant to level it over the area allotted to the mixing, and it is thus ensured that the work shall be per- formed in a more regular and systematic way than in hand mixing. O. II. — Describe the functions of the opener, the scutcher, and the finisher lap machines ; the derangements to which they are liable, and the manner in which the cot- ton passing through is injured by the occurrence of these deranoements. 30 A. — As is well known, cotton is received so matted together — due to the compression to which it has been subjected — as to render it necessary that the first operation it undergoes should have for its object the loosening and disentanglement of the mass so that it may be in such a condition as to readily submit to manipulation in subse- quent operations. To bring about this result is the primary function of the opener. (The hopper feeder has been gen- erally adopted since the publication of the first edition of this work.) Its secondary function is to extract the heavier impuri- ties, such as sand and other earthy matter. If the dust trunks and porcupine are attached to the machine, any superfluous moisture which may be present is in part evap- orated. In the majority of cases the opener has a lap forming attachment, when the formation of a lap may be considered as one of its functions. (The application of this attachment is now almost universal.) The functions of the scutcher or intermediate lap machine are, to further open the cotton and to extract the impurities passed with it through the opener ; a considerable quantity of the im- purities of a vegetable origin, such as seeds, leaf, and motes are taken out in this machine, and the amount of sand yet contained is diminished, as previously observed, openers have generally a lap attachment, therefore the scutcher is the first stage in the process where "doubling" is adopted, three or four laps from the opener being run together in the creel of this machine. The old method was for the opener to deposit the cotton on to the floor whence it was taken and fed by hand to the scutcher, a given weight being as far as possible spread equally upon a certain marked space of the feed lattice, so that in either case, equaliza- tion is to be considered as one of the functions of the scutcher. The functions of the finisher lap machine are: — I St. — To further perfect the cleanliness of the cotton. 2nd. — To further open the fleece and brin^ it in a con- dition most suitable for the action of the Carding Engine. 3rd. — To further equalize the sheet ; and it may here be stated that as this is the last stage in which the pneumatic principle is made use of, the lap as it leaves this machine should be even in the sheet, and level throughout, having well-made selvedges, and of an approximately uniform weight, since any defect in these points will only be diminished, and never entirely eradicated in the following processes. In considering the derangements to which these machines are liable, it will be well to consider the various items in their construction, which it is important to observe in order to produce satisfactory results. Then the derange- ments and misarrangements to which these machines are subject are numerous, and those which may be attributed to faulty constructions are* — (a) Feed rollers having too small a diameter. (^) Insuflficiently weighted feed rollers. (<:) Disadvantageous configuration of the nose of the pedals, or cotton holders, (rt') Doors and cases of the machine not air-tight. ((?) Ends of dust cages not let into the framework . of the machine. We will now consider these points in detail. (a) If the feed rollers are too slender, they will spring or give way in the middle, and the cotton will be drawn through in lumps, and these will be passed on insufficiently opened and cleaned, and will probably retard the properly opened cotton in its passage to the dust cages, and thus cause irregularities in the lap. (<^) If the feed rollers be insufficiently weighted, we should have the cotton dealt with in the same way as in the preceding case, owing to the rollers not having suffi- cient grip or hold on the cotton, and similar defects will be found in the lap. 32 (c) If the " piano" feed regulator or evener is attached to the scutcher or lap machine the nose of the pedals should be rounded off so as to throw the " bite " of the feed roller further from the beater. If this is not done the fibre will be injured by having its convolute structure destroyed or materially impaired, and the fibres to some extent broken. This point should be specially observed when the long- stapled varieties of cotton are to be used ; though the better plan, when this class of cotton is to.be used, is to have an additional pair of feed rollers so arranged that the beater shall strike the cotton from the pair of rollers, and behind these are placed the levers or cotton holders with the single feed roller, for regulating purposes. (d) If the framework and doors of the machines are not made air-tight, so that the current induced by the fan may be collected from the proper source, the result will be an irregular lap. (e) If so much of the ends of the dust cages as is cov- ered by the hoops for staying or holding them together be not recessed or let in the framework, so that the current may act upon the whole breadth of the sheet, the selvedges of the lap will be thin and jagged, and unnecessary side waste will be made at the carding engine. The derangements to which they are liable, and the man- ner in which cotton is injured by their occurrence are as follows : — If the feed rollers are set too near the beater, there is a tendency to break the fibres and impair their natural con- figuration, whereby the yarn is weakened. If the blades or knives of the beaters are allowed to be- come so far worn that they do not at each stroke clear off all the cotton presented to their action by the feed rollers, but allows some portion of it to hang down toward the top bar, this portion will receive a second or third stroke from the' beater before it is liberated, and the same injurious 33 effects will follow as in the case of the feed rollers set too near the beater. Running the beater too quickly or having the beater bars set too near the circle described by the beater blades will affect the cotton in a similar manner. If any obstruction is allowed to accumulate either in the dust Hues or air passages, or if the perforations of the dust cages become closed from any cause, the draught or current will be affected, as also will be the regularity of the lap If the removal of the impurities from the dirt or leaf chambers is neglected, and they become full, the impurities contained in the cotton will be passed on to the lap ; the same result will follow if the current induced by the fan is too strong, and if this is too weak, a quantity of good fibre will be expelled with the "droppings" and leaf. The former derangement must be avoided, since it would deter- iorate the quality and appearance of the yarn, and the latter evil should be carefully guarded against, as it would entail a considerable loss. If the " piano" feed regulator is attached to any of the machines, care should be taken to keep it in good order and sufficiently sensitive, and if this appliance is driven by a belt or band, it should be kept at a proper tension, and in a good flexible condition; this must also be seen to in the belt connecting the two cones; if any of the "bowls" be- tween the pendant bars are worn, they must be renewed, as if any of these defects be present, an irregular lap will be made. (' Wifk a badly constructed or ufwiec/ianical evener, level and even running laps cannot be made.) If the lap rollers are weighted too heavily, or if the air current is so directed as to be too much upon the bottom dust cage, we should very probably have the laps "licking" or "splitting" when unrolled in the succeeding process. Another matter which in conjunction with the above ap- plies to all the machines in the "scutching" department is. 34 to see that all belts are sufficiently tight, and in proper condition, so that they may perform their work without any slipping, for if this is not attended to they will become too slack, and the various speeds of the machines will not hold their proper ratio to each other, and unsatisfactory re- sults will follow. Reference should be made to Ans., Ques; 8. Ord. Grade, in considering this question. O. 12. — Which principle of carding — roller or flat — is best for making, say first, a loosely compacted or "oozy" yarn that will take size well; and second, a dense, silky- looking thread that will make a good printing cloth ? A. From the perusal of the answer to question 9, Ord. Grade, it will be evident that the roller principle of carding is best adapted for producing a loosely compacted oozy yarn that will take size well, and for the productionof a dense, silky-looking thread, suitable for "Printers." or lightly sized goods, cards constructed on the revolving flat principle are the best. Q, 1 3. — What system of spinning, Hyer throsde, ring frame, or mule, is best for producing the yarns described in the previous question, and for the same purposes? A. There is no system of spinning which can produce so loosely compacted and oozy a yarn as the mule. The reasons that this machine can produce a better yarn of this description than either the ring frame or the flyer throstle are: It is capable of spinning yarns with a less number of turns per inch, owing to the drag necessary in the process of winding on not being applied until the yarn is brought up to its full strength, by having received its full number of turns. Its drag—/, e., force exerted upon the yarn b)- the counter or under "faller," is also so adjustable that the winding process can be accomplished with much less strain on the yarn than in either of the other machines mentioned. As this class of \'arn is obviously not so strong" as the dense, silky-looking thread, the above considerations, together with the fact that the centrifugal force generated during the process of twisting, causes a considerable quan- tity of fibres to project froni the surface, thus making the thread more hairy, place this machine in the foremost position for the production of this class of work. The fiyer throstle will produce the most dense and silky thread. Its superiority in this respect over the ring-frame and mule being chiefly attributable to the action of the flyer-leg on the thread during its passage to the bobbin, it having a smoothing and consolidating tendency, thus causing the maximum number of fibres to be incorporated into the thread, and a more sericeous or silky yarn is the result. Although this machine is capable of producing a smoother thread than the ring-frame, economical considerations have led to the adoption of the latter frame for this class of work, since it produces a thread which is better in this respect than the mule, thus placing it in an intermediate position to these two machines. The considerations which have prin- cipally led to the extensive use of the ring-frame, to the comparative exclusion of the Hyer throstle, are its greater productiveness and diminished cost of working. O. 14. — What hank roving should be used to get the best results in the following counts of yarns, each in low, medium, and good qualities: — Tzuisfs 16/24, 32/36, 40's, and 6o's; wefts 30's, 40's, 50's, 6o's. 70's, 8o's. (In questions i^ and i^ the student is desired to answer to those counts with zvhich he is most familiar.) 36 A. — Suitable hank rovino" (sinole) for the various coiuits ^^iven in the question are : — Twists : Counts. 16's 24's 2.99 32's 3(;'s 40's 60's 2.11 3.78 4.13 4.56 6 38 Wefts : \ Counts. 30's 3.59 40's 50's 5.4,-) (lO's 70's 80's 4.7r. t;.27 7.20 8 06 These rovings will produce uood results for a medium qual- ity of yarn, and for a low quality we should g-o from about one quarter to one half hank coarser, and for a good qiialit)- about the same proportion finer in the hank of the roving. O. 15. — What should be the weight of lap used, and the draughts in the card, the drawing frame, the slubber, the intermediate, the roving and the spinning frame or mule, to give the best practical results from the material used in producing the yarns named in the previous question ? A. — This question is a very comprehensive one, and the answer is given without showing the method by which it has been obtained, as to do so would require such a multitude of figures as would probably make it less lucid and. perhaps, somewhat confusing. Draughts, etc., for Twists. — On reference to the sub- joined table it will be noticed that in setting out the draughts for i6's the intermediate frame is omitted, as it is generally considered to be unnecessary for these numbers. Three I heads of drawing are used with six ends up into one, at 37 each head. In the 24's the intermediate frame is introduced, since it is not deemed advisable to spin above 20's without it ; in the drawing frames the same number of heads are used and doubHngs made as in i6's. In 32's, 36's, and 40's there are eight ends "doubled" at the first head, and six at the second and third heads of drawing". In 6o's there are eight ends up at each of the three heads. Single rovinors are used for all the counts, both twist and weft. It will also be observed that the weight of the lap is given in ounces and fractions of an ounce per yard, and also in grains per yard. The hank of the lap is also given. For a good quality of 6o's twist the combing machine might be introduced with beneficial results. Counts. * Weight of Lap in ozs. . * " " grains Hanlv of Lap Dvaugiit in Card " "1st Drawing " 2ud " 3rd '* '• Slabbing . . . " " Inter " " Roving " " Spinning . . . 16's 24's 32's 36's 40's 13.70 13.60 12.69 11.90 11.53 51)92 5950 5553 5206 5048 .00129 .0014 .0015 .0016 .00165 90.00 100 100 100 100 6.00 6.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 5.27 3.41 3.79 3.88 3.90 4.58 4.71 4.84 4.87 6.13 5.35 5.65 5.81 5.84 7.90 8.02 8.48 8.72 8.77 60's 10.53 4508 .00185 100 8.00 8.00 8.00 4.19 5.23 6.28 9.42 * Weight per yard is given. Draughts, etc., for Wefts. — In examining the table for wefts it must be understood that in 30's there are six ends "doubled" at each of the three heads of drawing. In 40's and 50's eight ends are put up at the first head and six at the second and third heads. 70's and 8o's have eight ends "doubled" at each of the three heads. 38 Counts. Weight of Lap in ozs. .-. grains Hank of Lap Drauirht in Card •■ 1st I)ra^vin.ii■ " 2n(i " 8r(l ■' Slnhbinii'. . . . 30's 12.45 j44(; .0015 100 COO fi.OO G.OO •A.C,\ Inler 4.4( Rovinii'. . Spinning'. 8. 30 40's ll.itO 520(; .ook; 100 s.oo t;.0() (1.00 ;!.'.)2 4.90 5.S,S 8.s;5 50'S GO'S 70's 11.20 13.00 11.07 4900 5(;,S9 4843 .0017 .(H»i(;4 .0017 100 no 110 S.OO S.OO 8.00 (i.OO. 8.00 8.00 (i.OO 8.00 8.00 4.09 4.25 4.45 5.10 5.31 5.40 (1.12 (1.38 (1.4S 9.18 9.5(1 9.72 80's 9.31 4074 .0018 110 8.00 8.00 8.00 4.43 5.51 6.62 9.92 These tables give the requisite draughts for a medium quaHty of the yarns to which they are subjoined, and for a good quality we should work a fraction finer throughout, while for a low quality we should keep a fraction coarser all through. ( T/ie methods by whic/i these draughts have been obtai?ied and divided are given in the appendix.) Q. 1 6. — Some years ago it was the common practice in the slubbing, intermediate, and roving frames for the flyer to lead the bobbin; it was found, however, that the flyer started in advance of the bobbin, and by so doing made a thin place in the slub or rove. In order to remedy this, the arrangement was altered, and the bobbin made to lead, in the belief that the flyer would still start first, and only cause a little slack, which would soon be taken up and do no harm. Was this belief correct? Explain the reason why the flyer started in advance, and especially say if the alteration has proved to be a remedy ; and if not, why not ? A. — In the answer to this question the three sections into 39 which it is divided are not dealt with in the same order in which they are given, since it is thought it may lead to a better conception of the subject if they are taken in the following order : — I St. — "Explain the reason why the flyer started in advance of the bobbin." 2nd. — "Was the belief correct that in bobbin-leading frames the flyer would start first and only cause a little slack which would soon be taken up and do no harm?" 3rd. — "Especially say if the alteration has proved a rem- edy." Taking these sections in this order, we must first inquire why the flyer starts in advance of the bobbin ; and the reason is, that since the motion to the bobbins is transmitted through a greater number of wheels than the motion communicated to the spindles, and consequently to the flyers — the actual number of wheels in each train being bobbins nine, flyers five — therefore it follows that the flyers must start before the bobbins, owing to the sum of the "backlash" in the nine wheels driving the bobbins being greater than that of the five wheels driving the flyers. It may be said that owing to the flyer starting first and having, as it were, to lap the rove round the bobbin— because the bobbin has the least velocity — and their velocities at the instant of starting not being in the required ratio the rove will be stretched in frames which have the flyer leading. And here it may be permitted re- spectfully to differ from several recent works on cotton spinning, the authors of which seem, in the opinion of the present writer, to be somewhat under a misconception as to the cause of the flyer starting in advance of the bobbin, since in the works referred to the non-positive factor in the motion of the bobbins or the slipping of the strap or belt drivinof the bottom cone drum is oriven as the cause. It will be both interesting and instructive to examine this question in detail. Consider for a moment what happens when a frame is doffed. The bottom cone drum Is raised, 40 which causes the " sun" wheel to stop, and no winding takes place. The following calculation will show that winding cannot take place when the bottom cone is stopped. A 42 on frame shaft drives a 42 on spindle shaft, a 55 on spindle shaft drives a 22 on spindles. Revolutions of frame shaft. 517. This gives ^^^^ = 1,297.5 ^^ the number of revolutions of the spindles per minute. Now, when the sun wheel is stationary after the stopping of the bottom cone, it ceases to be a factor in the motion of the bobbins, and the only motion they possess is that ac- quired direct from the frame shaft, which has a constant velocity, and under these conditions we may find the revo- lutions of the bobbins as follows : — Revolutions of frame shaft, as before, 517. A 56 on boss of loose bevel drives through two carriers in the swing; a 56 on bobbin shaft and a 55 on bobbin shaft drives a 22 washer or bobbin wheel. Then the revolutions of the bobbins from these particulars are^-^iif = 1,297.5. These are the revolutions of the bobbins per minute, without the agency of the differential motion. From the above it is evident that under these circum- stances, the bobbins and the spindles both have the same number of revolutions per minute. Now suppose, at the time of "doffing" the bobbin is 4 ins. in diameter, its circumferential velocity will be "^'•f*"'" = 4,077.85 inches per minute. Now, the foot of the presser being by centrepetal force in juxtaposition with the periphery of the bobbin, it will, in one revolution describe a circle having a radius equal to the radius of the circle described by the periphery of the bobbin. Therefore the radii of the circles described by each being equal, and the number of revolutions of each being equal, the circumferential velocity or the space described by each per minute will be the same, therefore no winding can take place. As a corollary to the above, we should say that the slip- 41 ping of the cone belt on starting the frame would tend to ease the rove rather than stretch it, whether we have the bobbin or the flyer leading. So that the reason previously given is the only cause of the stretching of the rove. In considering the second section of the question we must remember that when the flyer is leading, the winding is accomplished by the velocity of the flyer being greater than that of the bobbin, and this difference will be better understood by an example being given. Say the front roller delivers 500 inches of rove per min- ute, then taking the circumferential velocity of the bobbin, at any time, at 4,500 ins. per minute, then the flyer must pass through a space of 4,500 + 500=5,000 ins. per minute, and as explained previously, the flyer starting in advance of the bobbin, it must cause the rove to be stretched. In frames which have the bobbin leading, the converse arrangement to the above is adopted, the bobbin having as it were to take the rove from the flyer, therefore its circum- ferential velocity must be the same as that of the flyer, plus the velocity of the front roller. This being the case, it follows that in bobbin leading frames the flyer starting in advance will cause a little slack, which will be taken up when the full velocity has been attained. With regard to the question, " whether the alteration has proved a remedy." It has certainly remedied the stretching of the rove, and has also eliminated another minor evil, i. e., when an end broke the bobbin unroved itself, making waste, and this does not occur when the bobbin leads. But considering all the points pro and con, the frames which have the bobbin leading are admittedly the best. Q. 17. — What are yarn agents, and what are the duties they ought properly to perform for spinners? State the terms on which yarns are usually sold to the home trade, and to the shipping or export trade. 42 A Yarn agents are persons who buy or sell yarn. a,e. lo sell tiie > ^^^^^^^ accounts for whose solvency hey are sure a ^^_^ ^^ ,.n.ac.ons c— ^ V ^^^^^^^^^^ j:^-::eeing and non- Trarr^ ^ rte grarLneein^ agents do not in.ornr the fr:..sthepur.^^^^^^^^ they are allowed ^ per cent. nc) Dpr cent, commission. . , • ^ The non-gt,aranteeing agents inform the ^P>"-^«'^° '^ %T *: :e:n:r:::hlch yams are soM to the hon.e trade ^^ xU^rs'^n whict ya--- usually sold to the ship- • ™Lt tride are- ^ per cent, discount, .f payment allowed 95 days niterest, at 5 per cent., on same. 43 APPENDIX. COTTON SPINNING. CONE DRUMS IN SLUBBING INTERMEDIATE; AND ROVING FRAMES. Cone drums in spindle and fly frames are introduced to regulate the winding of the rove upon the bobbins, which must be accomplished without its being elongated or stretched in the slightest degree, i. e., if 500 inches of rove are delivered by the front roller per minute, there must be exactly the same length deposited on the bobbin per min- ute ; and as the diameter of the bobbin is increased at each upward or downward change of the traverse, by twice the diameter of one ply of rove, the velocity of the bobbin must be accelerated or retarded ; accelerated if the flyer leads the bobbin, and retarded if the bobbin leads the flyer; this acceleration or retardation, as the case may be, is obtained through the medium of the cone drums, and must have a constant ratio. To obtain this differentiation in a constant ratio the cone drums must be rotary surfaces of the same para- bolic curve, the top or driving cone being concave, and the bottom or driven cone convex. They must be constructed in such a manner that in moving the belt towards the opposite end of the top cone, the number of revolutions of the bottom cone must decrease in the same proportion as the length the belt has been moved. Thus: — Suppose the number of revolutions of the bottom cone decrease by 8 on moving the belt one inch; then on moving the belt, say 44 ,o inches, the revolutions of the bottom cone should be decreased by 80. This could not take place . the cones were rotary surfaces of a straight line, i. e.. of a st,a ght taoer We must now proceed to demonstrate these the- orems. First we may say in dealing with these questions that the distance of the axis of the two cones from each other must be the same at all points, or n. other words^ they must be exactly parallel, and that the sum of the two circles described by the centre line of the belt must be equal at any position of the belt. These pomts must be observed or the belt will not always be at the same tension. Further the belt must always be parallel to the position it occupied at the end of the drums. Also, in calculating the different speeds, we must assume that the same number of revolutions would be produced as if the cones were replaced by two drums of the same diameters as those circles round which the centre line of the belt is moving. Suppose the diameter of the thick ends of the cones to be 6 inches, and the diameter of the smaller ends 3 inches, and that its length be 30 inches. Then, if the driving cone makes i so revolutions per minute, the number of revolu- tions of ihe driven cone when the belt is on the smallest diameter, and consequently on the largest diameter o he driving cone will be 'i? = 300. Now the diameters of the drums at the centre will be ^h inches each. If we suppose in the first instance the cones are a straight bevel, and the number of revolutions of each will be 1 50 per minute. Now let us suppose the driving cone to be produced to its apex, we can find the length of this supplementary cone by the following simple application of the proportion rule:-As the length of the supplementary cone is to the tota lencrth of the drum, so is the diameter of the smaller end of the^drum to the diameter of its larger end or base. If we designate the length of the supplementary cone by .X (being the unknown quantity) we can obtain its corre- sponding numerical value as follows; 45 X : {^:,o + .r) •■• 6 x =90 + 3 X .'. 6 X — 3 X = 90 •■• 3 •^' =90 X = 90 3 ;o Therefore the length of the side of the supplementary cone is 30 inches. By a process very similar to the above we can obtain the diameters of the drums at any point. Suppose we move the belt i inch toward the smaller end of the driving cone ; the diameter of the circle described by the centre line of the belt would then be -^o : (30 + 29) : : 3 : .r •• • 3 X 59 30 =5-9 inches. And since the sum of the diameters of the two cones must be nine inches, the corresponding diameter of the driven cone must be 9 — 5.9 = 3. i inches and the number of rev- olutions it makes per minute will be "^^ = 285.49. As before we may obtain the number of revolutions of the driven cone and its diameter and also the diameter of the driving cone for each inch the belt is moved, which are obtained and tabulated under, for six positions of the belt. Distance of centre of belt from apex of cone. Diameter of top or driving cone. Diameter of bottom or driven cone. No. of revolutions of the driven cone per minute. Decrease of number of levolutions of diiven cone. 60 59 58 57 56 55 6 5.9 5.8 5.7 5.6 5.5 3 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 300 285.40 271.87 259.09 247.06 235.71 14.51 13.62 12.7s 12.03 11.35 46 If we examine the above table we shall find that the decrease m the number of revolutions of the driven cone diminishes each time the belt is moved toward the smaller end of the driving cone, and thus it is not proportional to the lateral traverse of the belt. We have seen thus far that the differentiation will not be proportional to the lateral traverse of the belt, if the cones are of a straight bevel. And as in the spindle and fly frames it is absolutely neces- sary that the difference in the velocity of the driven cone be in exact proportion to the lateral traverse of the belt. We must now endeavor to find that shape of the conical surfaces which will produce this : — REQUIRED VELOCITY. For example: — Suppose we require our driven cone to decrease from 300 to 75 revolutions per minute, and to have a decrease of 7^ revolutions for each inch the belt is moved. Then the length of the axes of our cones must be ^ ^ .Q inches. Take the largest diameter of the driving cone at 6 inches. Then the corresponding smallest diame- ter of the driven cone must be Ijf" = 3 inches. The dimensions we have now obtained are as before : — Length of axis, :^o inches; largest diameter of driving cone, 6 inches; corresponding least diameter of driven cone, 3 inches. Therefore, also, the sum of the diameters of the two cones is again 9 inches. Considering, in the first instance, the driven cone, we must now take a line 30 inches long to represent the axis of the cone and divide it into 30 equal parts, each being one inch long, and through each of these points draw a straight line at right angles to the axis ; and on the first of these lines at the smaller end of the cone set off i^ inches on each side of the axis, which will represent the smaller diameter of the driven cone = 3 inches. The length to be measured along the next vertical line 47 may be found thus: — If we denominate the diameter of the driving cone by d and the corresponding diameter of the driven cone by e since the number of revolutions of the cone e must now be 300 — 7.5 = 292.5. We know that 150 x «^ = 292.5 X ^- .'• <^ = ^^ = 1.95 e. And we also know that \}ci^ d -\- e must equal nine inches. Therefore d^g — e. If we now take these two values of e and place them equal to each other, by an easy application of simple equations we have 1.95^ = g — e r.e + 1.95^ = 9 also ^(14- 1-95) =9 •■• 2.95^= 9 9 .•. e = = 3.05 inches. 2-95 This 3.05 is the length to be measured on the second per- pendicular, and if we set off one-half of this length on each side of the axis we shall have two other points in the curves of the driven cone. By calculations, analogous to the above, we have e = 3.104 - • e = 3.16 etc. 3 If we proceed in this way and connect all the points thus obtained, we shall have a curve by whose rotation the required form of cone will be described. If we now subtract these values of e, e, e, e, etc., from 9 inches, and proceed as in the pre- ^ " ^ vious case we shall obtain a curve similar to the last, with the exception that it will be concave, while the previous one is convex. These concave curves are those by whose ro- tations the surface of the drivins: cone will be described. On examination these cones will be found to be parabola. 48 }sfote. — A parabola is a plane section of a right conical surface, ivhich is at all points equidistant from 'a fixed point and a fixed straight line, termed respectively the focus and the directrex. We have thus shown that cones of a straight bevel will not answer our purpose, and have found the method by which the required conical surfaces can be obtained. RULES AND EXAMPLES. To find the total length of yarn produced by a mill per week in hanks, the weights spun of the various counts being known. Rule : — Multiply the iveights produced of the various counts by their numbers, and the sum of these results will be the total length. Example: — A mill produces 2,500 lbs. 30s, 3,000 lbs. 36's, 5,000 lbs. 40's, 8,000 lbs. 50's, and 2,000 lbs. 6o's, what will be the total length ? 2,500 X 30 = 75,000 = length of 30's produced. 3,000 X 36 = 108,000 = " 36's 5,000 X 40 = 200,000 = " 40's " 8,000 X 50 ^ 400,000 = " 50's 2,000 X 60 = 120,000= " 6o's " The sum of these = 903,000 = Total length in hanks. 49 To find the average counts spun. Rule : — Divide the length in hanks spM?i per week by the total zveight produced in pounds, and the quotient will be the average counts. Example : — Take the particulars of the previous example, and find the average counts? Then Total length ^= 903.000 = 44.05 average counts. Total weight = 20,500 To find the production in ounces per spindle per week. Rule : — Multiply the weight iji pounds spun per iveek by 16, and this will give the ounces per zueek, which divided by the nu7nber of spindles contained in the mill zvill give the ounces per spindle. Example : — Taking the particulars as before, and the mill as containing 30,000 spindles, find the ounces per spindle per week. Then 20,500 X 16 = 10.93 ozs. per spindle. 30,000 To find the number of hanks per spindle produced per week. Rule : — Divide the length in hanks produced by the num- ber of spindles, and the quotient ivill be the hanks per spindle. 50 Example:— Production 903,000 hanks, number of spindles 30,000; find the hanks per spindle. Then 903,000 . = 30.10 hanks per spindle. 30,000 To find the number of hours continual running that would be required for a pair of mules to produce any number of hanks per spindle of any counts. jiuie —Multiply the turns per inch of the counts spun by the product of 840X36. this will give the turns in one hank Then the product of the turns per hank, and the number of hanks given, divided by the number of revolu- tions of the spindles per hour, im 1 1 give the number of hours required. Example.— A pair of mules produces 28 hanks per spindle of 36s weft. Find the number of hours required to produce this number of hanks, assuming that the "wheels were continuous spinning machines, and no stoppage to take place. Turns per inch 36's W = i9-5- Turns in i hank of 36's = i9-5 X 36 X 840. Revolution of spindles = 7,500 per minute. Then 19.5X36X840X28 . = 36.42 hours required. 7500X60 To find the approximate number of spindles with prepa- ration, that one indicated horse power will drive. Rule.— Take 100 spindles per horse power for 60s, add i spindle for each 2 hanks finer, and deduct i spindle for each 2 hanks coarser, in the numbers to be spun. 51 Example: — How many indicated horse power will be re- quired to drive a mill spinning 50's, and containing 60,000 spindles? 60 — 50=10 .'. 10=5= No. of spindles to be deducted. 2 .-. 60,000 = 632 nearly == horse power required. 1 00 — 5 The above will form a good basis to work upon, since it is obtained from the number of spindles and indications, of many mills actually at work. To find the cost per pound of cotton at the carding engine head. This will be best shown by an example. 200 lbs. of cot- ton are passed through the opener and scutchers, and on the finished laps being weighed, it is found to have lost 1 1 lbs. 5 ozs. Then the loss per cent, in this process is found as under: — 1 1.3 125 X 100 = 5.65 per cent. 200 A lap from this cotton, weighing 25 lbs. 1 1 ozs., is passed through the carding engine, and when re-weighed, it is found to have lost i lb. 9 ozs. Then, as before, the loss per cent, is 1.5625 X 100 = 6.08 per cent. 25.6875 Then the total loss is 5-65 6.08 1 1 .73 per cent. 52 Now, suppose this lot of cotton cost 5 ^id. per lb., its cost at the engine head may be found thus: — 100 X 5 a'i = 553^ pence == amount paid for 100 pounds. But this 100 lbs. when passed through the scutching and carding, only gives 100 — 1 1.73 = 88.27 lbs. Therefore, 553-125 = 6.30 pence per lb. cost at engine head. 88.27 English pence x ~ = American cents, To find the total draught in slubbing, intermediate rov- ing, and mule or spinning frame inclusive. Rule : — Multiply the counts being spun by the 7iumber of doublings in these machines. a7id divide this product by the Jia7ik of the sliver put up behind the slubbiiig frame, and the quotient will be the total draught required. Example: — Find the total draught when the hank sliver is .16 and the counts 40's, two ends up at intermediate, and two at roving frame, and single roving in the mule. Then 40X2X2 == T ,000 total draught required. .16 To divide the above total draught into any desired pro- portion between the slubbing, intermediate, roving frames, and the mule or ring frame, as the case may be. Rule I. — First, it must be decided in zv hat proportion the total draught shall be divided ; and, for example^ we will suppose that it is desired to divide it iti the pj'oportion of 9, 6, 5, y por the mule., roving, intermediate, and slubbing 53 respectively. Then multiply these supposed dra^ights to- gether', and extract the biquadrate or fourth root of the product. Then extract the biquadrate root of the total dra^ight required to be divided, and by multiplying this root by the siLpposed draught or proportion of each machine, and di- vidiftg the product by the biquadrate root of the product of the s7ipposed draughts or ratios^ we shall obtain the draughts for each machine. Example: — 40's weft is spun from a sliver of .16 hank to the pound, put up behind the slubbing frame. There are two doublings at the intermediate, and two at the roving frame. The total draught being i ,000, divide this draught between the slubbing, intermediate, and roving frame and the mule in the ratio 9, 6, 5, 4 respectively? Biquadrate root, 1,000 = 5.62 of product of 9X6X5X4 = 1080 = 5-73 Then 5.62X9 And Also Also 5-73 5.62X6 5-73 5-62X5 5-73 5-62X4 5-73 '&.'^}, draught in mule. 5.88 " " roving. = 4.90 " " intermediate. = 3.92 " " slubbing. 54 Rule II. — III cases where tJiei^e are only three draiights — as in low mimbers ivhere the intermediate frame is not required — wc should use the cube root in both iiistances in place of the bigiiadrate root used in Rnle I Example: — Assuming that 20's twist is spun from a .125 hank sHver, what will be the total- draught from slubber to spinning frame when the intermediate frame is omitted, and how must this drausfht be divided? Suppose the draught is divided in the ratio 9:6:5 for spinning, roving and slubbing respectively. Then 3 X 20 zzzi 320 total draught. •125 And V3/320 =16.8399 Again, product of 9X6X5 = 270 and v^^2 70 = 6.4634 Then, as before, 6.8399 X 9 9.5 I = draught in spinning frame. And Also 64633 - y-5 ' — 6.8399 X 6 = 6.35 = 6.4633 6.8399 X 5 _ r oA 6.4633 "ovmg slubbing " Note. — The fourth root of a number is obtained as fol- lozvs : Extract the square root of the number, and the sqiiare root of the number obtained is the biquadrate or fourth root reqtiired. 55 Example: — Find the biquadrate root of i ,000. y* 1 ,000 = 3 1 .62 and y/ 3 i .62 = 5.62 — answer. An approximate method of dividing the total draught in drawing frames having four lines of drawing rollers. Rule: — For the middle d7^a2Lght take the cube root of the total draught, and the square root oj this middle draught will give an approximate back draiight. The quotient of the product of these tzvo nitmbers divided Into the total draitght will give a stiltable number for the frojit di^au^ht. Example: — If the total draught In a drawing frame is 8, find the back, middle, and front draughts by the above rule. Then ^8 = 2 = middle draught. And y/ 2 = 1 .40 ^ back " Therefore 2 X 140 2.86= front "DIVIDENDS" OR ^'CONSTANT NUMBERS.' ' These numbers are exceedingly useful to overseers and managers generally. They are especially of great practical utility in those mills which spin a large range of numbers, thus necessitating frequent changes both In the spinning and carding depart- 56 ments, since they bring out results very briefly, which to obtain by an ordinary rule would involve the employment of a considerable number of fig^ures. The term "dividend" is here used in the sense in which it is applied to the loom. It is a number, which divided by the result we require, will give as an answer the change wheel or "pinion" to produce that result; and conversely, if it is required to find the draught, turns per inch, etc., of a frame, then the constant number for the draus^ht, or for the turns, divided by the change wheel or pinion working, will give as a quotient the required result. To find the dividend or constant number for obtainino- the draught in slubbing, intermediate, and roving frames. Riile : — Multiply all the driving wheels — except the cJia7ige pinion — and the diameter of the back roller for a divisor^ and all the driven wheels and the diameter of the front roller, for a dividend ; and the quotient will be the constant mt?nber required. Example: — What will be the constant number for draught in a frame of the following particulars: — Wheel on the front roller, 20 teeth. Wheel on the back roller, 48 teeth. Crown wheel, 80 teeth. Diameter of back roller, i^ inches. Diameter of front roller, i^ inches. Then the driver is 20 on front roller, and the driven are 80 and 48. Then by rule 80 X 48 X li = 192 :=: dividend required. 20 X 14 Now, say we require a draught of 4 in this frame, we must divide this 192 by 4, and the quotient will be the change pinion to produce the draught. 0/ Therefore, 192 48 = pinion required. 4 Again, suppose that there is a 50 change pinion working on this frame, then to find the draught we adopt the con- verse method to the above, and divide 192 by the pinion. That is, 192 = 3,84 = draught of frame. 50 The above rule is equally applicable to the various spin- ning frames and to drawing frames. To find the constant number for obtaining the number of revolutions of the spindles to one revolution of the front roller. Rule: — Divide the product of all the driving ivheeh from the front roller to the spindles hy the product of all the driven wheels — except the twist wheel — and the quotient will be the dividend or con- stant number required. Example: — What will be the dividend for obtaining the turns of the spindles to one of the front roller, in a frame having the following particulars: — 1 12's wheel on front roller, geared with a 64's " end of top cone drum shaft; a 54's " top cone drum shaft, geared with 28's " twist wheel; 64's " twist wheel stud, geared with a 48's " Jack or frame shaft; 42's " end of Jack shaft drives a 42's " end of spindle shaft ; 55's " spindle shaft drives a 22's " spindles. 58 Then 112 X S4 X 64 X 42 X 55 . = 315 = constant 64 X 48 X 42 X 22 number required. Therefore the turns of the spindles to one of the rolle 315 = 11.25 28 If we required the spindles to make 10.5 revolution to one revolution of the front roller, Then _^ =z 30 ^ twist wheel required. 10.5 The above are the particulars of a frame driven by an upright or vertical shaft— a most convenient method when pressed for space— instead of being driven from the frame end. This method of driving renders the introduction of a twist wheel stud necessary. For a frame driven in the ordinary wa)', from the frame end, the constant number would be found as under:— Take the particulars of the previous example, but substi- tute for the 64's carrier, and the 28's twist wheels, a 2rs twist wheel on the end of the frame shaft, then the constant number would be 1T2 X S4 X 42 X 55 ■ = 236.25 64 X 42 X 22 To find the constant number or dividend, for obtaining the turns per inch in slubbing, intermediate, and roving frames. Eule -—Divide the constant numher for obtaining the turns of the spindles, to one of the roller, by the circumference of the roller, and the quotient will be the constant number required. 59 This number divided by the number of teeth in the twist wheel will give as quotient the number of turns per inch being put in the rove; and if it be divided by the turns per inch it is desired to put in, the result toill be, the number of teeth in the twist wheel necessary for obtaining this number of turns. Example : — If the constant number for obtaining the turns of the spindles to one of the front roller be 315, find the constant number for obtaining the turns per inch, the diam- eter of the front roller being \\ inches. First — Find the circumference of the roller from the given diameter, by multiplying the diameter by 3^, thus: — li X 3' == ^ X ¥ = ^i = 3-929 nearly. Then 315 = 80. 1 7 constant number required. 3-929 Then if this frame has on a 28's twist wheel, the turns per inch it is putting into the rove will be: — 80.17 = 2.86 28 Again, suppose it is required to put in 3.08 turns per inch, Then 80.17 = 26 = twist wheel required. 3.08 MISCELLANEOUS DATA, ETC. The number of operatives per thousand spindles in such mills as are organized to spin all their yarns, differs ma- terially in mills making approximately the same class of goods. For comparative purposes the subjoined table may be of value : — 60 TABLE A. Mill . No. of Spindles. Average Counts. Goods Made. No. of Operatives per M. Spls. "Wages per M. Spindles Style. Width. per week. A 18,356 30.65 Twill and Plain. 33" to 45" 9.90 61.10 B 28,403 32.01 Plain. 40" 10.75 60.72 C 41,136 35.22 Sateens & Fancies. 28" to 42" 10.12 61.43 D 27,810 29.72 Plain. 38' to 92' 11.96 67.80 E 101,312 29.73 Plain and Drills. 38"to 44" 12.01 70.70 F 25,316 51.12 Cambric. 40', 10.01 58.21 G 4,211 32.19 Plain. 40' 13.21 68.18 H 18,325 21.16 Plain. 32" to 40" 16.11 53.29 An examination of these figures will show some inter- esting contrasts. WASTE AND COTTON TESTING. The waste question is one which has been given much thought, and it is also a matter of paramount importance in successful mill management. In Table B are given the pounds of cotton consumed and waste made per spindle per annum by the mills shown in Table A. Simila7' letters indicate the same mills in both tables. TABLE B. Pounds of Cotton consumed. 59.09 55.85 51.17 63.04 66.02 36.57 99.72 Pounds of Waste made. 8.02 7.50 6.22 8.72 8.81 4.14 9.12 .6 I A system of keeping accurate and comprehensive records of the detail of waste production, will amply repay any time and expenditure necessary to its complete carrying out, and will frequently bring to light unsuspected losses that might be stopped by more careful supervision. The periodic testing of each lot of cotton through the pickers and cards, carefully made and recorded in a book kept for that purpose, will at times prove that an apparently cheap purchase is really an expensive one, from the fact that the cheapest lot at first cost contained an unusual proportion of unripe or imperfectly developed fibre, or that an abnormal amount of seed, leaf or other foreign matter was present. When combed yarns are to be produced it is also advisable to pass a sample through the comber (without altering the settings of the machine) this will give an approximately correct indication of the per- centage of short staple in the sample. Many mills make a rough test for moisture by exposing one or two hundred pounds spread loosely on the floor of the card room for twenty-four hours, and after re-weighing and again exposing the sample to a normal temperature for the same length of time the material is again weighed and any moisture artificially introduced may thus be discovered. The second exposure under normal conditions allows the cotton to re-absorb its ''zuater of hydration',' which is par- tially evaporated during the time it is exposed to the heated atmosphere in the mill. (See page 52). ORGANIZATION, LABOR COST, ETC., OF AN ENGLISH YARN MILL. Number of mule spindles, 69,300 " " frame " 5.120 Total, 74420 62 Doubliugs. Draft. Weight. Speed. No. of Delys or Spindles. 8.37 1 Breaker F 14 oz. 445 3 4 ami 3 10^ oz. 051 O 111 to 129.5 30 and 36 8i to 12 00 Derby Doublers 1(5 2 240 & 288 331 !) Ribbon Lappers (1 o.k; and fi. 54 240 and 288 240 ;t C'ombers 8 30.47 40 & 55 ,S4 .")3 5 and :-ij- T*'" C. A. M. PRARAY. • WM. WHITTAM, Jr. C. A. M. Praray & Co. THOS. M. HOLT MILL. NEW. ILL ArGHITEGTS and ENGINEERS. PLANS AND SPECIFICATIONS FURNISHED FOR THE CONSTRUCTION AND EQUIPMENT Gotton. woolen worsted and m MHis, BLEACHING and DYEING WORKS, Water and Electrical Powers. TOO A O A\/ '^PROVED CONSTRUCTION HE rnAnAY for textile mills CAN BE APPLIED TO ANTIQUATED BUILDINGS, QO Dr\ P 4- INCREASING THE LIGHT ^*^ rul L>6ni . ^^ The illustration shown above gives a view of the Thos. M. Holt Mill, constructed on two systems: at the right of the central tower, the "PRARAY" Constrnction is shown, Avhile on the left, a view of the old method. Made by us meets all requirements of the Mutual Insurance Companies. SOUTHERN AGENTS FOR TEXTILE MACHINERY. CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED. MAIN OFFICE, PrOVIDENCE, R. 1. BANIGAN BUILDING, BRANCH, ----- CHARLOTTE, N. C. GREAT ADVANTAGES RESULT -FROM- TIiB DD rjD fj Y improvBfl System of Construction. PATENTED APRIL 17, 1894. Floors are Supported Independent of Walls. Less Massive Brick Work required. Lighter and Stronger in Construc- tion, at a Less Cost of Erection. A Less Fire Risk, consequently a Reduced Insurance. THIRTY -THREE PER CENT, more light than can be obtained by any other system of construction. 33 PER CENT, less bricks in the walls. JO PER CENT, less height of wall required. JO PER CENT, less space to heat. MEETS ALL POINTS REQUIRED by the Mutual Insurance Companies. IS A SLOW BURNING CONSTRUCTION. PRESENT EXAMPLES ERECTED ON THIS SYSTEM: THE DIXIE COTTON MILLS, La Grange, Ga. Cost less per spindle for building than any mill built in the South. SELMA COTTON MILLS Selma, Ala. AFRO COTTON MILLS, Annistou, Ga. GEORGIA WESTERN COTTON MILL, . . Douglasville, Ga. THE THOMAS M. HOLT, ] Thomas M. Holt Mfg. Co., ] r i I ! THE CORA Haw River, N ■t<^-%t.«s'«<>Si,-»«*^*«*t«i^'SwS,s«\V ■ "' \u^«^t %w^(.VtttN^£«a %W^..uIkt'}>U^,<^.h«vU«. PLANS OF WALLS. ETC. Patented hy C. A. M. Praray, April 17, 1894. II *e. CORA COTTON MILL. WE PRINT below letters from Messrs, B. S. Robertson, Treas- urer of the Thomas M. Holt Mfg. Co., and of Samuel Hale, Vice-President of the Dixie, and General Manager of the Georgia Western Cotton Mills : THE THOS. M. HOLT MANUFACTURING CO. Haw River, N. C, April 4, 1898. Messrs. Chas. A. M. Prarat & Co., Providence, R. I. (ientlemen : — Yours of the 2nd to hand. We should say that the lamps are lighted in the old part of our mill 3 or 4 times as long during the day in the old part as they are in the new part. Of course, having weaving in the old part, and carding and spinning in the new part accounts for some of this, but even allowing for this, there is still a great difference in the matter of light in the new construction. We only wish we had the same construction in the part that contains the looms, since the light would be injin.itely better. We are tixing to put some looms in the Cora Mill this Summer, and we think the weave room there will be eminently satisfactory. Yours trulj', (Signed) B. S. ROBERTSON, Treasurer. Office op the GEORGIA WESTERN COTTON MILLS. DODGLASVILLE, Ga., April Kt, 189S. Messrs. Chas. A. M. Prarat & Co., Providence, R. I. Gentlemen : — Your favor of the 161h duly received. In reply I beg to say that I have built two Cotton Mills in the South, using your "PR AHA Y" Patent Construction. The Dixie Mills at La Grange, Ga., and the Georgia Western Cotton Jfills of Doitglasville, Ga. now under construction, and nearlj' completed, and I am pleased to say that I am more than pleased with the plans and construc- tion, and prefer them to any that I have seen for this class of "buildings. The Mills can be built cheaper with these jilans, than with tlie ordinary mill construction, and are lighter and much better adapteiJ for the business in every way, being especially fitted to the Southern Climate. It will give me great pleasure to give any of your friends or clients any further details, if they will come to me at Douglasville, Ga., or write. Very truly yours, (Signed) "SAMUEL HALE, General Manager Georgia Western Cotton Mills. WE NAME YOU A FEW MILLS located in the Northern and Southern States of zvhich Mr. Praray was the Architect and Constructing Engineer : THE NORTHERN MILLS ARE: The N. H. Slater, Webster, Mass.; Whitman Mills, New Bedford; The Corr Mills, Taunton, Mass.; Two additions to the Whittin Bros., Mill at Whittensville, Northbridge, Mass. ; The River Spinning Mills, Woonsocket, R. I.; The Vesta Knitting Mills, Providence, R. I.; The Kenyon Mills, at Shannock, R. I. THE SOUTHERN MILLS ARE: Two Mills for the Clifton Mfg. Co., Clifton, S. C. ; Two Mills for the Anderson Cotton Mills, Anderson, S. C; The Piedmont Mills, Piedmont, S. C; The Pelham Mills, Pelham, S. C; The Eronee Mills Eronee, 8. C, ; The Raleigh Mills, Raleigh, N. C; Tallasee Fall Mills, Tallasee Falls, Ala.; Aiken Mills, Bath, S. C; Stonewall Mills, Stonewall, Miss.; The South Side Mills, Salem, S. C; Caraleigh Mills, Raleigh, N. C, and man}' other smaller mills. WATER POWERS TWO FOR THE CLIFTON MILLS, CLIFTON, S. C. ONE FOR THE TALLASSEE FALLS MFG. CO., TALLASSEE, GA. ONE FOR THE PELHAM MILLS, PELHAM, S. C. ONE FOR THE FRIES ELECTRIC AND POWER CO., SALEM, N. C. TWO FOR THE CANADIEN COLORED COTTON M I LL CO., CANADA. Ill RUFUS B. GOFF, President; HARRY C. CHENEY, Secretary; HENRY C. CLARK, Treasurer; HARRY M. SMITH, Vice-President. FRED E. SPALDING. ^tandard JV^Hl 3^PP'2 Q-- MANUFACTURERS AND DEALERS IN Roll Coders' Stock and Tools, Belt Hooks and Ring Travellers, Wire Goods, Heddles and Frames, ^GENERAL MILL FURNISHINGS:^ LEATHER, RAW HIDE, COTTON AND RUBBER BELTING, LACE, PICKER, WORSTED AND BELT LEATHER. Office and Salesroom ; 7 7 Exchange Place, : : : Providence, R. I, IV Dinsmore Manylaoiurino 60. CHAS. F. CURIVEN, Treasurer. SALEM, MASS. ■MANUFACTURERS OF- MILL SEWING MACHINES. Railway and Circular Patterns, FOR BELT, FOOT AND HAND POWER. THIRTEEN DIFFERENT STYLES. Adapted for use of Bleacheries, Dye Works, Cotton, Woolen and Silk Mills. OVER 2,500 IN USE. SEND FOR ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. V CHARLES B. MAGUIRE. EDWIN G. PENNIMAN. ii/a^uire dc zPennimany BUILDERS^ MILL WORK AND OTHER HEAVY CONSTRUCTION A SPECIALTY . . . PRELIMINARY OR FINAL ESTIMATES FURNISHED PROMPTLY. 48 Custom jrfouse Street^ Tjelephone J097» Salem Foundry ana HlacninB Stiop CHAS. F. CURWEN, Proprietor. S7XL-E7VY, TV^KSS. 7UYKN\^I=750TURERS OF= ELEVHTORS. Patent Automatic Hatch Covers. Patent Self-Closino- Gates. More than 200 of our Elevators Used in Textile Mills. SEND FOR ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. FALES & JENKS MACHINE CO. PAWTUCKET, R. L BUILDERS OF COTTON^ SPINNING AND^^^^ Machinery. TWISTING ill VIII Geo. V. Cresson Co., POWER TRANSMITTING MACHINERY. 18th ST. and ALLEGHENY AVE., PHILADELPHIA, PA. PATENT ^ ~ --- ^ IMPROVED BALL and SOCKET PARTING HANGER, RING ( OILING BABBITTED Philadelphia Pattern. 141 LIBERTY STREET, NEW YORK. VERTICAL -^ AND HORIZONTAL ADJUSTMENT, BEARINGS Fitted with SCRAPERS to PREVENT ESCAPE OF OIL. TURNED OPEN HEARTH STEEL SHAFTING, PULLEYS, COUPLINGS, FRICTION CLUTCHES-CRUSHING ROLLS. ii m UNIVERSAL" TI16 Only rerleGi Sysieiii ot Windlno Yarn. EllSf 10 OP[MI Wmm\ Winding Gompdnu. 226 Devonshire Street, BOSTON, MASS. EVAN ARTHUR LEIGH, SUCCESSOR TO E. A. LEIGH & CO., MASON BUILDING, 70 KILBY STREET, BOSTON, MASS, IMPORTER OF COTTON, WOOLEN and WORSTED */lbacbiner^* • • • ••• ••• ••• THE LATEST AND* BEST.=_I^ Patent Bale Breakers or Cotton Pullers. Patent Automatic Hopper Feeders. Patent Exhaust Cotton Openers and Lappers. Revolving Top Flat Carding Engines. Combing Machines for all classes of Cotton. Drawing, Slubbing, Intermediate and Roving Frames. Self -Acting Mules for Cotton, Wool or Worsted. Rollers, Spindles, and Flyers of all descriptions. Wool Combing Machinery. Wool Washing and Drying Machines. Garnett Machines, — Card Clothing of all descriptions. Napping and Measuring Machines. Fine Yarns, Cotton and Worsted. Dronsfield's Grinders and Emery Fillet kept in stock. PLATT BROS. & CO.'S SPECIAL MACHINERY FOR MAKING ENGLISH AND FRENCH WORSTED YARNS. THE BEST MACHINERY FOR MAKING COTTON WASTE INTO YARNS. MATHER & PLATT'S Bleaching, Dyeing and Finisliing Machinery. eAHALL BOILER fit ' ALWAYS SUPERHEATED DRY STEAM. MUD AND SCALE COLLECT N LOWER DRUM OUT OF REACH OFTHE FIRE. GflHALL BOILER Vertical Tabes mean Clean Tubes and Eronomii^ speciallij Valuable where irater is bad. Has CaJiall Patent Sfrinr/inr/ Manhole Plates. R3' A Postal Card will bring us. An interesting practical Circular is ready for you. THACJE-R ^ CO., Inc. Drexel Building, Philadelphia. Tremont Building, Taylor Building. Boston. 39 Courtland St., New York XII INCORPORATED JUNE 4, 1890. American Card Clothing Co. GENERAL OFFICES: WORCESTER, MASS. SEND ORDERS TO FACTORIES : Worcester, Leicester, North Andover, Lowell, Walpole, Mass., Philadelphia, Pa., Providence, R. L, Manchester, N. H. Manufacturers of EVERY DESCRIPTION OF Card Cl-Othing. FOR WOOL AND COTTON CARDS. EXCLUSIVE AMERICAN LICENSEES FOR THE PATENT FLEXIFORT CARD CLOTHS. Special attention given to Clothing for Revolving Top Cards. Experts furnished to Clothe and Start the same. XIII The Lincoln Company, MAKERS OF IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR BLEACHING, =^-=^ DYEING, . . . Finishing Textile Fabrics DRYING and ^ SOLE MAKERS OF RUSDEN'S Patent Aniline Ageing Macinines, Open Soaping Machines, Roller Washing Machines, Squeezing Machines, Vacuum Color Strainers, Blanket Washing Machines. IMPROVED, AUTOMATIC, HIGH-SPEED, SELF-FEEDING, TENTERING MACHINES, WITH AND WITHOUT SWINGING MOTION. CONTINUOUS, CHAINLESS, STEAMING MACHINES. Bentz- Edmeston Continuous Bleaching Kiers and Process, PATENTED. XIV Complete Bleaching Plants, KIERS WITH PATENT INJECTORS OR PUFFER PIPES, WASHING, LIMING, CHEMIC AND SOURING MACHINES, SQUEEZERS, CHEMIC AGITATORS, CAUSTIC SODA TANKS, ETC. Complete Aniline-Black Plants, PADDING, DRYING AND AGEING MACHINES. CROMING, SOAPING AND WASHING MACHINES. Complete Indigo Dyeing Plants, CONTINUOUS INDIGO SKYING MACHINES, CUTTING MACHINES, OPEN AND ROPE WASHING MACHINES, DIPPING TANKS, IMPROVED INDIGO MILLS. Bleaching and Dyeing Plants, FOR WARPS, YARN AND SPOOL THREAD Drying Machines, with Copper and Tinned iron Cylinders. IRON, BRASS, COPPER AND RUBBER COVERED ROLLS. DYEING MACHINES, JIGGERS, CANROYS, CHEMIC, WATER, STARCH. AND BACK FILLING MANGLES, DAMPING MACHINES, BELT STRETCHERS, CALENDERS, STEAMING COTTAGES, PUMPS, DIAGONAL ENGINES, REVOLVING SPREADERS, CONICAL OPENING ROLLS, IMPROVED EXPANSION PULLEYS FRICTION CLUTCHES. COMPLETE PLANS AND ESTIMATES FOR BLEACHING, DYEING, PRINTING AND FINISHING WORKS. OFFICE AND WORKS: 54 to 70 Arch Street, HartfOfd, Conn. XV E.VENTILATING & HEATING GO, RICHARDSON'S REVOLVING VENTILATOR RICHARDSON'S EXHAUST FANS For removing steam from Dye Houses and Slashers ; also for drying Cotton, Wool, Cloth, Yarn, etc., and for ventilating over-heated work rooms. MANUFACTURERS OF RICHARDSON'S BLOWER SYSTEM FOR MILL VENTiLATION. Supplies Pure Air. Mal Successors to NOONE BROTHERS, 100 Pearl Street, Boston, MANUFACTURERS OF Roller Cloths, Jacket Cloths, Slasher Cloths, Clearer Cloths, Filterino: Cloths, Piano Cloths, Printers' Blanket, Webbing, etc., etc. MILLS: MT. BATTY MFG. CO. MEGUNTICOOK WOOLEN CO. CAMDEN WOOLEN CO ^^ CHWhall & Co SELLING AGENTS, o/ MANUFACTURERS OF FIBRE ROVING CANS AND BOXES For Cotton and Woolen Mills, Cordage Works, 8iC. We would call particular atteutiou to our PATENT KICKING BAND, which is practically SEAMLESS, increasing the streuiith and general' appearance of the can. THE WHITIN MACHINE WORKS, WHITINSVILLE, MASS. S. W. CRAMER, No. 38 So. Tryon Street, Charlotte, N. C, Southern Agent. Builders of COTTON MACHINERY. Cards, Railway Heads, Drawing Frames, Spinning Frames, Spoolers, Wet and Dry Twisters, Long Chain Quilling Machines, Reels, Looms. XX The MeiaiiiG Drawing Roll 60. INDIHN ORCHHRD, MHSS. SOLE MANUFACTURERS OF lp>atent /Ibctallic 2)rawinQ IRoUs IN UNITED STATES AND CANADA. Used on all processes in carding room up to and including slubbers. We guarantee 25 per cent, more production than can be obtained from the leather covered rolls, that is, rolls being same diameter and running same speed. ALL WORK GUARANTEED. For prices and particulars write to THE METALLIC DRAWING ROLL GO. INDIAN ORCHARD, MASS. XXI HERCULENE.I> A COLD-WATER PAINT, For Inside Work on any Surface. Will not Fade, Rub or Flake. Particularly adapted for Whitening Walls and Ceilings in Factories, Warehouses. Public Buildings, Etc., and is also used as a Kalsomine for the finest kind of Decorative Work. Ready for immediate Use by Mixing with Cold Water. Is Fire Proof, Durable and Cheap. I would uame a few of my Customers who have placed duplicate orders : Amoskeag Mfg. Co., Manchester, N. H., four orders. Chicopee Mfg. Co., Chicopee Falls, Mass., five orders. Lonsdale Co., Lonsdale, R. I., three orders. Social Mills Co., Woonsocket, R. I., four orders. Union Wadding Co., Pawtucket, R. I., two orders. Crompton Co., Cromptou, R. 1., four orders. Valley Falls Co., Albion, R. I., four orders. Florence Mfg. Co., Florence, Mass., six orders. Slater Woolen Co., Webster, Mass., seven orders. Farr Alpaca Co., Holyoke, Mass., three orders. Fall River Iron Works, Fall River, Mass., five orders. Richard Borden Mfg. Co., Fall River, Mass., three orders. Falls Co., Norwich, Conn., four orders. Shetucket Co., Norwich, Conn., two orders. Scoville Mfg. Co., Waterbury, Conn., three orders. PoNEMAH Mills, Taftville, Conn., two orders. Goodyear Rubber Co., Middletown, Conn., five orders. WRITE FOR FURTHER PARTICULARS TO WM. D. WARNER, Sole Proprietor, 50 EXCHANGE PLACE, PROVIDENCE, R. I. XXI I PHTENT IMPROVEMENTS MAKE OUR Fly Frames The Best, WE INCREASE PRODUCTION AT DECREASE COST. HAVE YOU SEEN "THE WOONSOCKET" Cloth Trimmer and Inspecting Machine? Woonsocket Machine and Press Co., WOO/N SOCKET, "R. I., a. S. A. Wi'iie/or Latest Improvement Sheet. . . , XXIII The Victor Turbine is the Best ! WE ARE THE LARGEST MANUFACTURERS IN THE WORLD OF AVATER WHEELS, And our Specialty^ in that line is THE IMPROVED VICTOR TURBINE. Which we make ia such great variety of Sizes and Styles that we are prepared to meet the requirements of almost any situation. We undertake Contracts for Complete later Power Plants. WE ARE ALSO LARGE MANUFACTURERS OF STEAM and POWER PUMPING MACHINERY of the Latest and most Improved Designs, and adapted for all purposes. Correspondence is solicited. TRIPLEX PUMP. Tie Stilwell-Bierce & Smith-Valle Co, DAYTON, OHIO. Brtbur B, Bdgbam, SOLE AGENT, 186 £)epon6hire St, Boston, /Iftass. U. S. A. ' Specialties in XLeytile fll^acbiner^: Broadbent & Briglianvs Cone Winders, for Hosiery Yarns, Broadbent & Brigham's Parallel Winders, for Yarns and Threads. Patent Octopus Bronze Mandrels. Morse Winders, close, open or diamond wind, any Traverse from 1 to 10 inches. Shuttle Bobbin Winders, etc., etc. Gassing Machines for Cotton, Worsted and Silk, with Patent Quick Traverse Motion. Indicators for Mules, Frames, etc. Octopus Gloy for Light and Heavy Sizing. Kenyon's Patent Interstranded Ropes for Power Transmission, etc. CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED. XXV THE SPENCER DflinPER REGULflTOR. N EVEN PRESSURE OF STEAM IS CONSIDERED BY SOME AS MORE IMPORTANT THAN A SAVING OF FUEL. THE SPENCER DOES BOTH. ABOUT 3500 IN USE. Record of steain pressure April G, 1894, at the Naumkeag Cotton Mills, Salem, Mass. They have three SPENCER DAMPER REGULATORS, and no other. Also in nse by . Newark, N. J. Pepperell Mfg. Co., (3) . . . Biddeford, Me. Gloucester, N. J. Stark Mills Manchester, N. H. Baltimore, Md. Mass. Cotton Mills, (3) . . . Lowell, Mass. Burlington, N. C. Crefeld Mills, Pawtucket, R. L Chattahoochee, Ga. Willimantic Linen Co., ('2) . Willimantic, Conn. Clark Thread Co., (5) Gloucester Mfg. C, Woodbury Mfg. Co.. ^Vurora Cotton Mills, Whittier Mills, . Send for New Catalogue and Prices. G. G. StILLMAN, . . Manufacturers' Agent, 199 Pearl Street, Boston, Mass. FREDERICK GRINNELL, President. FRANK B. COMINS, Vice-President and Gen l Manager. F. W. HARTWELL, Treasurer. TUB UnltBil states fleropnor fllr-Hloistemng and Ventilating Company, PROiZIDENCE, R. I. Making a Specialty of Humidification. We are prepared to advise as to the best iutroductiou of a Iluniidifying' System. THE AMERICAN "VORTEX" HUMIDIFIER. THE ONLY PERFECT SYSTEM For Moistening the Air, and maintaining a i)roper "condition" in tlie various departments of textile manufacture. It moistens, waslies, cools or warms the atmosphere of a room. It has no moving parts, and is rapid in action. The "VORTEX" distributes a tiner spra}^ and is of greater capacity than any otiier moistener. Our Sillg'le jVozzle gives better results than any other form of Nozzle in the market. Can be applied to present systems having a feed and return pipe. CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED. XXVII SACO AND PETTEE MACHINE SHOPS. Main Office: Newton Upper Falls^ Mass*^ ( u. s. M. ) COTTON niflCJlINERY OF THE LATEST IMPROVED PATTERN REVOLVING FLAT CARDS. SLUBBING. RAILWAY HEADS, INTERMEDIATE and DRAWING FRAMES, ROVING FRAMES, SPINNING FRAMES. WORKS BIDDEFORD, ME. NEWTON UPPER FALLS, MASS. SEND FOR ESTIMATES AND PRICES. XXVill CHAS. A. SCHIEREN. F. A. M. BURRELL. CHAS. A. SCHIEREN, JR. GHAS. A. SCHIEREN & CO., MANUFACTURERS AND TANNERS OF DIXIE TANNERY, BRISTOL, TENN. OAK LEATHER BELTING AND LACE LEATHER. NEW YORK : 45, 47, 49 AND 51 FERRY STREET. CHICAGO : 46 AND 48 SO. CANAL STREET. PHILADELPHIA : 226 N. 3RD STREET. BOSTON: 119 HIGH STREET. XXIX MASON MACHINE WORKS, THUNTON, MHSS. BUILDERS OF COTTON MILL Mmwm REiZOLyiNG FLHT CHRDS, RHILiflZHY HEHDS, DRHiflZING FRHMES, COMBERS, SPINNING FRHMES, MULES HND LOOMS. HLsoTHE.. MHSON-NORTHROP LOOM. TI16 L0W6II Rino Frame. All parts are made on special tools to standard sizes and are interchangeable. The greatest care is taken to have the frames constructed so as to obtain the greatest production with the highest speed. All spindles are run in their bearings before being sent out. Fluted Rolls are ground to accuracy as to their roundness and diameter, a very important characteristic for high speed. We supply the best Separator in the market and provide all our frames with traveller clearers, lifting thread board device, cut gearing, improved roving traverse motion, heavy tin drums that don't break down, and all other parts that go with a first-class machine. Lowell Machine Shop, LOWELL, MASS, OAK LEATHER BELTING, ESPECIALLY MADE FOR Cotton and Woolen Mills and Power Plants of Every Description. IN ALL WIDTHS, PLIES AND WEIGHTS. TANNED AND MANUFACTURED BY Graton & Knight Manufg Co i-*j. Main Office and Factory, - - Worcester, Mass. TANNERY CAPACITY. OVER 100.000 HIDES ANNUALLY. BRANCHES ATLANTA; CHICAGO; NEW YORK; PHILADELPHIA; PORTLAND. Or. TO THE TRADE : Our long experieuce iu the Belting Business, being established in 1851, under tlie firm name of Graton & Knight ; our ample capital iu our present incorporation ($700,000) ; the success we have had in the installment of Belting P^quipment in all sections of the country and abroad, — are facts we present for your favorable consideration. Send for our estimates xipon your specifications for Oak Leather Belting, Strappintj, etc. GRATON tt KNIGHT MFG. CO. XXXII bmim FiRt Extinguisher 6o. MANUFACTURERS, JOBBERS AND DEALERS PIPE, FITTINGS, YflLYES, HYDRflNTS AND ALL KINDS OF STEAM, GAS AND WATER SUPPLIES AND SPECIALTIES. Factories and Warehouses Equipped with the Grinnell flulomaiio SprinKler BOTH WET PIPE AND DRY PIPE SYSTEMS- IN THOUSANDS OF ACTUAL FIRES IN ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD THE GRINNELL SYSTEM OF AUTOMATIC SPRINKLERS HAS CONFINED THE DAMAGE TO A LIMITED AREA AND MINIMUM AMOUNT. THESE REMARKABLE RESULTS HAVE BEEN SECURED WITH A LARGE PECUNIARY GAIN TO THjE INSUBANGE COMPANIES AND WITH A REDUCTION IN THE COST OF INSURANCE OF 25 TO 50 PER CENT. Information and Proposals furnished at the several Department Agencies, and at the Executive Olllces, rroviflence, R. 1. S toddard. H aserick. R ichards & Go. BRADFORD, ENGLAND. BOSTON, MASS. FOREIGN BANKERS AND IMPORTERS OF TEXTILE MACHINERY. COLONIAL, ENGLISH & CARPET WOOLS, EGYPTION COTTON, &G. COTTON MACHINERY: SOLE REPRESENTATIVES FOR DOBSON & BARLOW, Ld. COTTON MACHINERY, "SIMPLEX" CARDS, HEILMAN COMBERS, SELF-ACTING MULES, FLY FRAMES, CONE WINDERS, GASSING FRAMES, BALE BREAKERS, FEEDERS, OPENERS, PICKKUS. SAMUEL LAW & SONS, Ld. (;ARD CLOTHING. ROLLED STEEL WIRE, SPECIAL 'l'KMri-:i!ING, SIDE (JKOTM), PLOW GROUND, SURFACE GROUND, NEEDLE POINTED. BUTTERWORTH & DICKINSON. LOOMS OK ALL DESCRIPTIONS, SLASHERS, WARPERS. WOOLEN MACHINERY: ■ SOLE REPRESENTATIVES FOR WM. WHITELEY &l SONS. WOOLEN MULES, TENTERING AND DYEING MACHINERY, &c. WOOLEN CARDS, SHODDY CARDS, SHODDY MULES, WILLOWS, TEAZERS, WOOL WASHERS, WOOL DRYERS, FINISHING .MACHINERY. SAMUEL LAW & SONS, Ld. WOOLEN, CARD CLOTHING. COTTON, WOOLEN, WORSTED, LINEN, JUTE, SHODDY, COTTON WASTE. MACHINERY Of All Descriptions. ROLLER GINS Especially Made for Green Seed, Staple Cottons and Sea Islands. EGYPTION COTTON, All Grades and Staples. Mill Supplies. ENGLISH TEMPLES, WELSH AND PERSIAN, ROLLER SKINS, PELICAN BRAND, TINNED STEEL HEDDLES. KAYE'S OIL CANS, WORSTED HARNESS TWINE, LINEN HARNESS TWINE, &.C., &.C.. &c. CORRESPONDENCE 80LICI1ED. WORSTED MACHINERY: SOLE REPRESENTATIVES FOR PRINCE SMITH & SON. WORSTED MACHINERY, PREPARERS, GILLBOXES, DRAWING, SPINNING AND TWISTING, CONE DRAWING. TAYLOR, WORDSWORTH & CO. WOOLWASIIERS, ( ARDS, BACK WASHERS, GILLHO.XES, AND XOBLE COMBS. DOBSON &L BARLOW, Ld. WORSTED CARDS, WORSTED MULES, CONE DR.VWING. SOCIETE ALSACIENNE DE CONSTRUCTION MECANIQUES. WORSTED .MACHINERY ON FRENCH SYSTEM. SAMUEL LAW & SONS, Ld. M'ORS'J'ED, CARD CLOTHING, SURK.VCl': (J ROUND, ALL S'I'VLKS OF WIRE AND FOUNDATIONS. G. HATTERSLEY & SONS, Ld. PLAIN AND FANCY LOOMS E. HOYLE & SONS, Ld. WORSTED, DYEING AND FINISHING MACHINERY. JOHN CROSSLEY &l CO. BRUSSELS, WILTON AND TAPESTRY CARPET LOOMS. LINENANDJUTE MACHINERY: J. k T. BOYD. TWISTERS. SPOOLERS AND REDOUBLERS. AND MANY OTHERS. Stoddard, HflSERiCK, Richards J Co., AGENTS FOR DOBSON & BARLOW, Ld., COTTON MACHINERY; SAMUEL LAW & SONS, Ld., CARD CLOTHING. ^ Makers of the " LAW CUP" for RE- ^^^m^m. RivET- CLOTHING ^' ^F_^ . . ^ FLATS ON REVOLVING FLAT CARDS. Persian Kid and Welsh Roller Skins. Kaye's Oil Cans— 20,000 in use in British Navy. Tinned and Tempered Steel Meddles. Russian Isinglass for Roll-Covering. Home's Automatic Speed Indicator. Casartelli's Cloth Counting Glass. Goodbrand & Holland Yarn Testers, Reels, Scales, etc. XXXV eO/NSIDE-R That the Mills ranning at the LOWEST COST recorded for Steam Power in NEW ENGLAND are using GREEN'S FUEL E60N0MIZER. WHY SHOULD NOT YOU? 30,000,000 HORSE POWER IN USE. CAN BE APPLIED WITHOUT STOPPAGE OF WORK. 10 TO 20 PER CENT. SAVING. ONLY MANUFACTURERS IN THE U. S. A. The Fuel Economizer Company, OF MATTEAWAN, N. Y. XXXVI j^oward 6c ^^ullouffh^ American 9/^achine Companj/j jCtd. RTX^aZXUCKET, R. I. BUILDERS OF Cotton Machinery 1^"" BALE BREAKERS, OPENERS, FEEDERS, BREAKER LAPPERS, INTERMEDIATE and FINISHER LAPPERS, REVOLVING FLAT CARDS, DRAWING FRAMES, SLUBBING, INTERMEDIATE AND ROVING FRAMES. All parts of the different Machines are made by Special Tools, and are exact duplicates. Send for Circulars. SRINNING' FRAMES, made from entirely New Patterns and containing many Valuable Improvements. WE INVITE INVESTIGATION AND COMPARISON.. XXXVII KILBURN, LINCOLN & CO, F^KLL- RI^ER, TV^KSS., MAKERS OF L_OOMS For Cotton and Silk Weaving OVER 30,000 Of our NEW HIGH SPEED LOOMS are in successful operation in the city of Fall River alone, and WEAVING ALL GRADES OF GOODS. We claim that the mills i)roducing the greatest quantity of goods per day, as well as those producing the finest quality of goods, are using our looms. The following record for speed has never been surpassed : — " The Seaconnet Mills, Fall River, tvove in 301 days of 10 hours each, 14,329,219 yards of 64 x 64 goods on the 928 of our ''NEW HIGH SPEED LOOMS," a daily average oj 51 3-10 yards i)er loom." The KILBURN, LINCOLN-NORTHROP LOOM is now ready for the market. This Loom combines all the light running features of our High Speed Loom, with the avantages of the Northrop and Draper Attachments. XXXVIII KiLBURN, Lincoln & Co, FALL RIVER, MASS. This Cut represents our " NEW HIGH SPEED LOOM." DESCRIPTION AND PRICES FURNISHED ON APPLICATION. XXXIX THE AMERICAN DROSOPHORE CO. 150 Devonshire St., Boston. WM. FIRTH, - - Manager. The DROSOPHORE makes a perfect Spinning or Weaving atmospliere in any climate or weather. Any degree of Humidity is obtainable. Will warm the air in cold weather and cool it in hot weather. Purities the air, and is healthier for the worlvpeople. FOUR GOLD MEDALS AWARDED: Amiens 1894. Reims 1895. The only Humidifier that stood the test Atlanta Exposition 1895. Rouen 1896. THE GOLD MEDAL DOUBLE NOZZLE DROSOPHORE Has no Avearing parts, uses less water, gives a liner spray and more humidity than any other form of Humidifier. The above Company has delivered since February, 1895, over 6000 of these Machines. WILLIAM FIRTH IMPORTER OF Textile Machinery, EQUITABLE BUILDING, 150 DEVONSHIRE STREET, BOSTON, MASS. SOLE IMPORTER OF Hiwi's ni WMK WW mie mm. Combing Machines, Drawing Frames, Roving Frames and Self-Acting Mules. Curtis Sons & Co., Patent Worsted Card, Woolen Cards and Mules. Also, Worsted Machinery, on French and P^nglish Systems. Wm. Tatham & Co., Vulcan Works, Rochdale, England, makers of Waste Machinery for Working Hard and Soft Waste, Cop Bottoms, etc. James Yates & Son, Hardened and Tempered Steel Card Clothing for Woolen and Worsted Cards. XL BLEACHING DYEING . . . . PRINTINGano FINISHING.. ►I M ^™ i m »»M^ I M »» ♦♦♦-H^< mmmi ► M l ^^ I HM ^— <>> M ^— ii> M I FOR TEXTILE FABRICS BLEPCHING, DYEING and SIZING ^/llbacbincr^= For Long and snort cnaln Systems iW.BUTTERWORTHXSONS C07VYPANY, PHILADELPHIA, PENNA. v^ .; , C^ u o "/ o u +-> 00 c/5 t/i 3-1 O U &0 O XI.II 6orli§§Si)6aiiiEngin66o. 1847. PROVIDENCE, R. U. S. A. 1898. Builders of complete [Steam Power Plants, Horizontal and Vertical Engines in units of 100 to 6,000 h. p. capacity For Textile Plants, Roling; Mills and Electrical Power. ^ ' S^ lit' 'f' •=- CO • CA c^ UJ CA C9 C3 CO C9 C9 Z CO C3 C9 CO o ISJ o oc <- -4—' _l o Q ^ :^ C^ >- > ^> UJ 3: o >- ■4— • _i C^ Q- ^ 1 -^ ZD oo O ^^■^Ss^'U- ,?-^*^ Our Northup Loom WHICH IS STEADILY FORCINCi ITS WAY, CONSIGNING TONS OF COIMIMON LOOMS TO thp: junk pile Now THAT 24,000 HAVE BEEN SOLD THE QUESTION OF TIIEUI USE IS SpyiTLED FOR ALL TIME THE FIGHT HAS BEEN FOUGHT! WE ALSO SELL Twisters, Warpers, Spoolers, Balling Machines, Spindles, Temples, Spinning Rings, Separators, Etc., Etc., Etc. THE DRAPER COMPANY HOPEDALE, MASS. XVII BLEACHING, DYEING, DRYING AND FINISHING MACHINERY. Complete Equipments from Grey Room to Baling Press. CALENDERS and ROLLS FOR ALL KINDS OF FINISH. COTTON, PAPER, HUSK, BRASS, RUBBER, CHILLED IRON, AND STEEL (ENGRAVED) ROLLS. PATENT ''Husk and Cotton }} COMBINATION ROLLS. MANUP^VCTURED BY PATP^NT PROCESS INSURING FINISH ELASTICITY AND DURABILITY TENTERS WITH PATENT AUTOMATIC CLIP CHAIN, SWING MOTION AND DRIVING ARRANGEMENT Washing Machines, Mangles, Ageing Machines, Beetles, Dyeing Machines, ■Hydraulic Presses, Etc. DRYING MACHINES, WITH COPPER OR TINNED IRON CYLINDERS FROM 1 TO 9 FEET DIAMETER. Granoer Foundry & MaGtiine 60. PROVIDENCE, R. L