V T 5lo THE \N'P Jkiiiii ^tS fc££Y;._■,;— -;r -.-:-— ct K&8HS ttBRSaRHBI .• MmjkmA i KB iaiBKK.'auHMJmmj**^ ,m \ Ml, I ||^ — ^TW*"!"— ™ , JJJ , - ' *T M , -f1l mmumw fffmi ^ 6 G ■** UNITED STATES OF AMERICA: District of Kentucky. 5 .5c/. L.S r D, i J5e 2/ Remembered ', that on this the second day of May, Anno Domini 1S53, A. J. Hunter, of said District, deposited in this office the tide of k book, the title of which is in the words and figures following, to wit: "The Garment Cutter and Ladies Guide : being a complete system for cutting Gentlemen'.-; wear; Co-its of all fashiens, Vests and Pantaloons. Also a com- plete Guide for cutting Ladies Dressing, with plain and practical rales for vary- ing and changiag the same, according to the change of Fashion: with plain, easy and practical method for teaching the same, by familiar Questions and Answers: with explanation on Measure, Pressing and Finishing the same. By A. J. Hunter. The right whereof he claims as Author and Proprietor.*' In conformity with an Act of Congress, entitled "An act to amend the several acts resoecting copy-rights." JJSO. A. MONROE, Clerk of Kentucky District Court. '•• ' c ner c This work, as its title page imports, is designed to furnish every family with an easy method of acquiring a practical knowlc ; for cuttin - lothin g, ... a hitherto been known only to . tailors and milli- The dominion of fashion has become so absolute, in every class oi i an society, thai wo have, in a great degree, depart* "P 11 '^ and the economy which characterized our ancestors. The ever varying changes in dress, and the consequent enormous expenditures of money, are at this t ime a fruitful source of many of the worst evils that afflict our country. The author ot this work has ion- known that a great reduction could be made in the reneral and easy guide in the cut- ting and fashioning of ladies' and ge, J. He has endeavored to meet what he considered a very great and growing i ty upon this subject. It has been Ids purpose to afford every lady the means ol lessei J burdens of her hu inanolaltoge Id, 'warranto- the co the fraifn ' vare { - ; ■" a hui ' ;thedis B e nil important department eels however that I :, im- perfect though it maj . . : doubtless is in some respects, is nevertheless be- yond the reach of those wl it. He courts an invest.gatio its pages, and bases his claim to public confi sys: recomending his he may, « ' of vanity, defy criticism. He la / for lhe rc ' lief of those who have small means, against the extortions and burthens of the professional tailor, and he feels safe in saying that his plan is now complete, 3H32S5S£SS33B£5aBHSHEEB One great merit of this work is that it is entirely five from technichal lan- guage or abstruse expressions. Its style and its general arrangement eminently adapt it to the capacity of the common raind, and the object to be attained by it addresses itself with peculiar force to every mother who desires to see her daugh- ters and sons neatly and elegantly attired upon a small amount of capital. This work has been entered according to an act of Congress and the copy- right secured to the author, who will see that his rights are not violated. Bgaara sBBKgiHaggB^^ iiMrWii taaaa THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. ^ - s^=«-=r THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. uestions and Jlnswers to Plate I, JFi». /, with JExplanations. Q. What do you first do' A. I draw my lines. Q. Which is your upper line? A. The one to my right. Q. Which is your outer line? A. The one next to me. Q. What do you come down on your outer line? A. 14 inches. Q. What do you get by that? A. The length of the waist. Q. How do you carry in the length of the waist? A. By laying the square parallel with the^ outer line, ranging with them. Q. What do you go in on the waist A. 2 inches. Q. What from that 2 inches? A. 2 inches more. Q. What do you get by that? A. The width of the back, accord- ing to the old style.! Q. Present style? A. Adding £ inch. Q. How do you get the middle of the back seam? A. By laying the square in the cor- ner of the lines, ranging with the 2 inches. Q. What do you come down on the back seam? A. One i. Q. How do you carry in the I? A. By laying the square parallel with the back seam, ranging with the I. Q. Wh«-t do you t'' 1 in on the I? A. One K, adding of a C. W\ i1 eiqj'ou come in on your upper line? A 2 « ches. Q. Where do you mark to to get your shoulder seam? A. From D to 2 inches. Q. How do you shape your side seam' A. By a sweep. Q. What do you take for a sweep? A. The length of the waist. Q. Where do you sweep from and to? A. From the end of the scale to 2 inches. Q. What do you come up on your sideseam? A. 4 inches. Q. How do you shape your addi- tional spiing? A. By a sweep. Q. What do you take for a sweep? A. 12 inches. Q. Where do you sweep from and to? A. 4 inches to h inch. Q. Folds how do you gel them? A. By judgment. Q. What do you go dowu to get the length of the skirt? A. 24 inches. Q. How do you shape your skirt at bottom? A. By a sweep, taking the entire length lor a sweep, and placing your right hand at the top, your left the entire length, sweeping toward you. [The 4 inches observed on theside seam of plate 1, figure 1, and the \ inch immediately under it at the en- tire length of the waist, is in accord- ance with the present fashion of waist- ed coats, and if the waist of the coat shall become shorter, the -i inch ad- ditional width must he taken off and the back only be 2 inches wide, as represented by two figures of 2 on figure 1. You will reraembe] that the length of the skirt will be con- trolled by taste and fashion; and, al- so the lengih cf the waist. THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE Questions and Jlnswers to Plate 1. Fig. II, with Explanations. Q What do you first do? A I draw my lines, Q Which is your upper line? A The one to my right. Q Which is your outer line? A The one next to me. Q What do you come down on your outer line? A 1 inch. Q How far from that inch? A one H. Q, How do you carry in the H? A By laying the square parallel "with the outer line, ranging with the H. Q What do you go in on the H line? A One'half the thickness around the arm at the body. Q. How do you shape the sleeve at top? A By a sweep, Q. What do you sweep from and to? A From 1 inch to the upper line, from the upper line to one half the thickness around the arm at the body Q, How do you get the width at the elbow? A One half the thickness of the el- bow, adding one inch. Q. How do you get the width of the hand? A. h thickness ofjihe hand adding an inch. Q Where do you mark from and to get the inside seam? A From half the thickness around the arm at the body to half the thick- ness of the elbow, from half thickness of the elbow to half the thickness of the hand. BWiMMMapsggeB&flgegarTiriTg^^^^ ss THE GARMENT CUTTER. AND LADIES GUIDE. \ucstions and Answers to Plate II., it common Dress (Joat. g Q, What do you first do? A I draw my line?. Q, Which is your upper line? A The one to my right. Q Which is your outer line? A The one next to me. Q, What do you come in on your upper line? A One L, Q, VV hat do you come down on your outer line? A One H. Q What from that H? A One J. Q, What from that.]? A One E. Q How do you carry in your H, J, and E? A Bv laying the parallel with the outer line, ranging with them. What do you come in on your H !in^ A Q What on vour J line? UmttBBBSBBi THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. » 3 A. C Q What from thai C? A One K. Q What from that K? A One L. Q How do you carry up the L? A By laying the square parallel with the upper line, ranging with the L. Q, What do you come down on the h? A One I. Q Where do yon mark from and to to get your shoulder seam? A From E lo L. Q What do you come in on your shoulder seam '. A OneH. Q Where do you mark from and lo to get the neck of the coat? A From H to I. Q, Where do von mark from and to tu get th° arm-hole ? A From E In K, to the E i i n-* ; from E line to C. Q. How do you throw your coat in at t!ie waist? A. F. Q. What shaped character will that fit? A. A man that measures near the same at ihe waist that he does round the breast. Q. What is considered near same. A. i inch to f. Q. Suppose it was 2 inche?, A. At the G. Q. 4 inches. A. At G and way.. Q. 6 inches* A. At H. Q. 7 inches. A. At H and i, half way. Q. 8 inches. A. At I. Q, 9 inches. A. At J. Q. How do you shape your side searn. A. By the back. Q, Do you go any lower down on the forepart than the hack? A I do — enough for a seam — be- cause there is a seam taken on the forepart and none on the back. d H, precisely half Q How do you carry out the point seam? A By laying the square parallel with the outer line, ranging with pointseam. Q What do you go up there? A One D. Q, How do you carry in fhe D? A By laying the square parallel with the outer line, ranging with thu D. Q What do vou come in on the D? A One M. Q Where do you sweep from and to? A Poii It ' ;: ,i ' » Q How do you gel the width] of the lower part of the fore cart? A Half waist thickness. Q How is it applied? A l oy laying the back to the side seam, applying the m - I > the middle of the back seam, taking care to leave oil enough for a seam. Q What do you add to that meas- ure in case you cut the coat to but- ton straight up in front, the lapellea it? A Two inches. Q How do you carry up the waist o! thickness? A By laying the square parallel with the D line, .ranging with the Wai? t of ! . Q, Mow do you get the length' of the coat in front? 4 By measure taken from the middle uf im around be- fore to get the length of t the coal. Q, What do you leave oil that measure? A Oae inch in dress coat. Q How do you shapa the neck of the coat? A By the collar pattern. Q How is it laid there? A The brake lo one-half (he thick- ness of the cuscomer's neck, the square upon the brake to tell how far the coat should roll. Q How do you shape the top part of the coat in front? A By the lapel!e[paUern, Q, Which side? A The outside. Q Suppose the outside should be s^tt^^ r's a s g aBaigssa ^ I© THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. curving? instead of rounding? A The inside, the length of the la- pelies, is got by the length of the fore pari, the dubbs in the measure; the width of the top part of the skirt is got by the width of the lower part of the fore part, adding for fullness as fashion may require. Q What do you go ('own to get the necessary spring for the skirt? A One D. Q. How do you carry in the D? A By laying the square parallel with the outer line, ranging with the D. Q What do you come in on the D A Half an inch. Q What do you come down on your outer line? A One L. Q How do you shape your round- ing folds? A By a sweep. Q What do you take fcr a sweep? A Eighteen inches. Q Where do you sweep from and to? A From L to f inch. Q Folds, how do you get them? A By judgment; folds of all sized persons are the same. Q How do you get the length of the skirt' A 8y the length of the back skirt. Q Where do you mark from and to to get the top mark of the skirt? A from the edge of the folds to the lower corner of the fore part. Q Dubbs, how do you get them? A By judgment. Q What do you come across to get the width of the skirt at top? A One M, adding of a G. Q At bottom, what do you come across? A One K, adding of an E. Q Where do you mark from and to to get the forepart of the skirt? A From E to G. THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE Questions and Jlns. to Plate III., with Explanation, Q, What do you first do? A I draw my lines. Q, 'Which is } our upper line? A The'one to my right* Q Which is your outer line? A The one next to me. Q, What do you come down on your outer line? A Fourteen inches. Q Whatdojou get by that? A The length of the waist. Q How do you carry in the length &f the waist? A By laying the square parallel with the outer line, ranging with the ength of the waist, Q What do you go in on the length of the waist 7 A Two inches. Q, What from that? A Three inches, or whatever fash- ion may be, or I, in my judgment think it should be. Q How do you get the middle of the back seam? A By laying the corner of the square in \he corner of the lines, ranging with finches, Q What do you come down on the back seam? A One L, marking at the I. Q, How do you carry in the Land ^ i, , A By laying the square parallel with the outer line, ranging with them, < Q What do vou go in on the 1 r A One K, adding of a C. Q What do you go in on the L? A One M. Q What do you go in on vour up- per line? A Two inches. Q Where do you mark from and to to get your shoulder seam? A From D to 2 inches. Q The aim hole? A From D to C and C to M. Q, How do you shape your side seam? A Bv a sweep. g*Q What do you take for a sweep? "" A The length o< the vrai«t. Q Wnere do you sweep from fand to 1 A M to 3 inches. Q Folds, how do yo« get them? A B) judgment; folds o. all sized persons are the same. Q What do you go down to get the length of the skirt? A Twenty-four inches. Q How do you shape the skirt at bottom? A By a sweep. Q What do you take for a sweep? A The entire length. Q How do you sweep, it? A By placing my right hand at the top, my left hand holding the chalk at the entire length, sweeping to- wards me. | igf THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. Questions and Jlns. to Plate IV., xtith Explanation, Q, What do vou first do? A I draw my fines. Q Which is your upper line? A The one to my right. Q Which is your outer line? A The one from me. Q How far do you come in on your upper Sine? A One L. Q What do vou ccme down on pour outer line? A One H. Q What from that H? A One J. Q What from that J? A One E. Q How do von carrv in vour H, J, and E? A By laving a square parallel with the outer line, ranging with them. What do you come in on your H Hue? A One E. Q What on your J line? - A One C. Q, What do you come :n liom that C? A One K. THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. 13 A What from that K? A One L. How do you carry up the L? By laying a square parallel wifh the upper 1 i n *-• , ranging with (he L. What do you come down on the L ? One I. Where do you mark from and to to set the shoulder seam? From E to L. What do vou come in on your shoulder seam.'' One H. Where do you rrnrk from and to to get the neck ol tie coat? From H (o I. What do you come in on your E V\r.e? One J. Where do vou mark from and to to get the arm hole? E to K, from K to f. Kow do vou get the arm hole the proper size? By measure taken around the arm at the body. How do you throw the coat in at the waist 9 At the F. What shaped man will that fit? One that, measure^ near the same in the waist and breast. What is near the same? Half an inch t<> three quarters, Sup) ose he was two inches? At the G. Four inches? At G and H, halfway. Six inches? At the H. ►Seven inches? At Hand i, halfway. Eisiltt inches? At I. N me inches At the J. In shaping your side seams how do you shape them? By the side seam of the baek. How do you get the width of the forepart ? One half the waist thickness. How is it applied ? By laving the hack to the side seam applying the measure to the mid- dle ol the back seam, taking care to leave off enough for a seam. What do you add to (hat measura in case you cut the coat to button straight np in front, or (he lapelles to it? 2 in, as shown on plate 4. How do vou get the length of the coat in front ? Bv measure taken from (h ■ mid- dle of (he collar seam around before, to get the length of the coat. How do you shape the neck oi the coat? Bv the collar patten. How is it laid theie? The brake to one half the thick- ness of the neck, the square upon the brake to tell how far the coat should loii. How do you shape the front part of the coat at top? By 'he lapelle pattern, the outside of course. How do you get the length of the skirt? Bv the iength ol (he bac.tyskirf. How do shape the skirt at bottom By a sweep. How do you sweep it? By placing my right hand at (he L at top, my left hand with the chalk in it sweeping towards me. THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. ucstions and Jlns. to Plate F., with Explanation. What do you first do? 1 draw my lines. Which i? your lower line : ? The one to my left. Winch is your outer line? The one next (o me. How do you get the length of the vest ? By a sweep. What do you take for a sweep? The entire length leaving ofFan E i Why do you leave oft that E? Bee ause the bark is an E wide, makes the vesl an E longer. Whai do you come out on the sweep? One I. Where do you lei the top mark cross the sweep? At the I. What do yon come out on the top mark? One M, marking at the I. v .irti^ys«y ! 'F5a»feiM^ t^M, jt^afc^«*^...-.« it) g> :< \ <>•: r >Ut mid ei' seam.' A. I' run i E to L. Q. What do you come in on your shoulder seam? A. One Hi Q. Wi»ere do you mar B from ;ind to Co !"M il'it tun k in the e.uat/ A. From 11 iu 1. Q. What do vou come in on vour E line? A. One [. Q. Where do you mark from and to to get your arm-hole. A. From E to K, from K. to L. Q. Hbw do you gel your arm- hoi.-- the right -size/ A. Measure taken around the arm at the iwuiv. llow do you throw in your coal at the waist. 7 One F. What shaped character will that fir? A man that measures the same around the waist that he does around the l)rea?t. What is considered near the fame Half inch to three quarters. Suppose he was two inches? At theG. Suppose he was four inches? B'tween G and H half way. Suppose he was six inches? At the H. Suppose he was seven inches. H and I halt way. Suppose he wns eight inches? At the L- How do you shape your side seam 3y the back. IS THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. Do you go any lower down on the forepart than the hack? I do; enough for a seam. Why so? Because there ; s a seam taken on the forepart and none on the hack. How do you carry out the point seam? By laying the square parallel with the outer line ranging- with the point seam. What do you go up there? OneD. How do you carry in the D? By laying the square parallel with the outer line ranging with the D. What do you come in on the D. ? One M from the side seam. Where do you murk from and to to pet the lower part of the lorepart From F to M. How do you shape your side seam? By the back. How do you get the width of the lower part of the forepart? O n the foiepart. The hark of this coat is cut like the back of the common sack coat, but sometimes the lapelles are sewed to it, and in that case you do not add the 2 inches, and the skirt is cut like the skirt of tha frock coat, as will be shown by figure 6. rrmvw I VI ■ H'JUIMiWJ I uiJtli THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. 19 uestions and Jlns. to Fig. 6, with directions hoiv to cut the skirt of the half Sack Coat. (or a turn in on the front part of the skirt, and then youi folds. How do you shape your skirt at tcp? By the lower part of the fore par*. How is it laid then? Bottom upwards. How far do von suffer the lower part of the side seam come above ihe top line? One E, G or H, according t© fashion; if the wai?t is cut short you must come oneG: ifloog, oneH: aid the fashion is at present tolerable short; and on the back part of the skirt you have folds also — thcie is generally about one inch left (or folds the fullness of \our skirt is got by fa-hion: at top, if the skirt is very full you must add for fulness. How do you gel the length of your skirt ? By the length of the hack skirt. How do you shape your skirt at bottom? By a sweep. How do you sweep it? By placing my right hand at the top, mv left hand with the chalk in it, making my left hand go twice as fast as my right hand, because it has twice as far to go, and both have to r/et there at the «ame time. What do you first do? I draw my lines, Whk:h is your upper line? The one to my right. Which is your outer line? The one next to me. Folds, how do you get them. By judgment; leave off enough ij nii«Mjpiniiri««r rirrr rTt«ir?iT ,J 'rrm w w iMnm rt ir n> w " i r " 20 WB — — — — B— ■ W THK GAKMENT -JUT:":": AND LADIES C Back part of a Ladies Dress-— present Fashion What do you first do. 1 draw my lines. Winch is your upper lint? The one to my right. Which is yonruutpi line 7 The one next yon carry in the M and Bv laying the square parallel « the oiner line, ranging with the und K. he k ifh- M What do you go in on the K? OueM. What do you go in on the M? One M. What do you go down on the outer line? Tie length of the waist. What dn yoij tr in on (he length of l he waist? One-fourth of the waist thickness, or whatever you may wish the width ol your back to he — what is taken off the back is added to the forepart, and visa verse. What do you come in on the upper line! Two inches. Where do you mark from and to to get the shoulder seam? From E to two inches. Where do you mark from and to to get the arm-holt ? From E to JM, and from M to M. How do yon shape your side seam? By a sweep, or straight by the square from Mto whatever you may wish the width of {he back of your dress, taking the length ol the waist, if you shape vour side seam by a sweep, for the length of your sweep: after you have gone down to thf ie gth ol your waist, if you mav wish a peak on the buck, go down "2 vi 3 inches for the length of the peak, men mark from the waist thickness to the entire length of the peak, and chape as shown by dotted line at the it iigth of the waist. 08y , Stub'nt* will remejfibar that in drawing theii line* they will fen vie ofFenougb foi a split rase.Tnd for hooks and eyes if you wish yo ir dress l<< upon behind, if not, leave oft' nothing; and if you shouid not wish a peak, of course leave it of)', and carry y >ui waist square across. Owing to ladies wearing t ijrir dresses so verv tight, you should leave half of ah inch for seams, and mure if the lining is of dome-tic; if drill- ing, halfol an inch will do. The dotted line on the side seam show how \ ou s-iiape .. your ..iie »eanl by a sw*ep, taking the length of ;ht> weist tor a sweep. MHM.iMr CkXZ ^9-f^wap-«w"? i "Sfiet: am> aws a^ jM ^aeawMHi^ HmMtwiimmtmuB i iiLMUimmmim ] «. . n 1 1 . ! ■ i ^j. 1 , Lu-.'u.'ti. -rs--*L* ': ' ,-' Tin; Garment cutter and ladies guide »i Questions and *Ins. to Fin. 8 , with Explanation, Being the forepart of a I/idie? Dres>.~ and change according to the Folio ..if.'-rvi.-' '•' What do yc,u first do? I draw my line?. Which is your upp^r line? Trie 'Uie next li» oh-? Wliat do you come down on your outer ii,H- 7 One M adding of a D, How do you cany in 1 he M and D. By laying the square parallel with the outer line, ranging with them. Wha f do vou «o in on theM? O'leJVT adding of ah A. What do you come down on your outer line to get the open or hosom of vour dress? You will observe on plate figure 8. on vour outer line, the letters G H and K. and you will also observe nn Eon your upper line, and I and K on your shoulder, and dotted lines running from the shoulder to the let- ters on the fore part and bosom of the dress, marked G H and K. U vou wi e h your dress cut high in the neck, dotted line from F to G; spring fashion; from I to H, summer fashion; -Present Ka*i ion, — with directions to vnry wing Fashions: — lull directions, &.c. , from K t«> K, cot for open bosom dresses, or rut your lining or faring to ran d orh letter lo letter with either ol the doited lines, and gainer plete nnd finish thf outside as you may wish or lashioii ma> require. What do yon go in on \ our upper line? O.ie M, adding of an F. How do you carry down the V? 13 v laying (he square parallel with the upper line ranging with the F. What i\o \ ou go down on the F? One 6, Where do you mark from and to to urot vour shoulder seam/ From F to G. WheredoYon mark from anil to to get vour arm hole? From G to K, from E to M . How do you shape your sideoodjr of your dress/ By the sidebody of the back. How do von gel the length of your sidebody? By length of the sidebody oi the back. How do you carry the length acnK-s/ By laying the square parallel with th" F line, ratigmg with the length o( the sidebodv. What do you come across t« get (he wsd'h of li. e lower part ol tne fore par'? One fourth of the waist thickness, adding lor seams. /Fhal do you go down to get the length of the peak? Four to five inches, or whatever you may wish it. JPhere do you mark liom and to to get (he lower part of the forepart? From one fourth the waist thick- ness to the entire length of the peak. What do you come across to get the point of the two side seams? One K. marking at the E, from the sidebody. How do you shape the back part of the sidebody ? By a sweep. r-*smrri. ggg^Tg'iyrT'xrTy^'Tar^ TIF, GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. Whai do \ou lake fur a sweep? The width ot the lower part of the Soie part. Where do you sweep from and to? From the lower part of the side body to the first seam, as shown by dotted line; '.he four straight lines running from K and E shows that there is two seams to be sewed, and you sew in the two lines, forming one seam in the two others forming the second seam, and you must leave off enough, exclusive of seam 8 , to he ot sufficie.it width for the lower part of th^ forepart of the dress. If the fashion of ladies' dre«ses should vary, which we reasonably look lor and you should not want any peak, come square across from the lowei point of ihe sidebody, and should the fashion become shorter in the length of the waist, which is very possible, you will then have to take up less at the waist in seams, and should the shoulder become shorter from fashion and requiie to be taken offal the back pari of the shoulder, you will readily perceive how it is done, and if the shoulder of back is shortened the forepart alsoshould be shortened to agree, that you will have to do by judgment and the scale. The siuJeot will find no difliculty in cutting of any of the fashions of gentlemen's or ladies 1 dressipg by paying close attention to the rule and measures, and take time, do not be too hastily in anything. in taking ladies measure you be- gin at^ flie top i f th'.' ditss , or as high ;is "hv wishes it, and go on down to yet the length of the want ; — that is I: then around Ihebreist; 2. then around the waist, — that is 3: all that is required. All that is further required of the ladie- is, to be particular and observe the fash- ions, and you can follow i» through all its changes. Further instructions will be given in the closing lecture. Directions, Quest, fy Jlns. to Fig. 8., on Pantaloons ] draw my lines. \\ inch is your upper line. The one to my right. Which is your outer line, The one next to me. What do you come down on your outer line. One-half of the knee length. What from that, Tiv en'jre length of the papfa- h ous — fnm the top of the hip to the er. the length. How dd you carry in one-Kali the knee length, and ihe knee length and the entire length. l)y lay iog the square parallel with the outer line— ranging with them. What do you ^o up fiom the body of the pantaloons to get the ot)ej> of the pa:i^. OneU ft^m'^ne O. flow do i.arry it in? By laying the square parallel with t' e outer line, ranging with II. What d > you go in on the O line? One-half Ihe waist ihickness. leav- ing of two inches. What do you go in on the P line? One-half of the knee thickness. What do you go in on (he R line . ? .■gsgaeratjErsa THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. S3 One-half of the ankle thickness. TFhat do you go in on the waist? One-fourOi the waist thickness, adding ,-i.) jijHi for seams. How do you carry down the waist thick ivs.-? By laying (he square parallel wilh (he upper line, ranging with the waist. Where do you mark from and to to get your inside seam? From L (o X, from X to H and the dotted line, as shown on the fore- part at you; Holl«»w out the point to prevent them from drawing up when riding; on the the P and X line you goon ihe buck part of the points three inches farther than on the fore part and at thm bottom, shown by R. H and V, all in a line you come across. Twist the width of the fore part for gather pantaloon and mark a straight line from L to V" and hollow out, as shown by dotted line at V, then di;iw a straight liVie from L to VV for the back nart of the pants at the waist going up three or four inches for the back part of the pants behind; you will observe ol the top of the pants a small slanted line, vou shape in that way for pants to wear without suspenders and cut by the lice; then mar!:- from that line where i; touches the upper line to the 3 or \ inches un the back part of the pant's. N. B. If you should wi h to cut pants to wear wiih su-spenders, vo*; measure from the top of the pants ep as high as the customer wishes hi- pants to come; in that case you should not slant vour pants at the top, but 'l«t them come straight up with the selvage of the cloth, and if he should wish his pants cut according to old style,\ on give them equal width at the bottom and kne<-. There are on- ly five measures taken for pants, be- ginning at the top of the hip hone aud go on down to the knee and th^nco on down to the foot, that being two measures, set them down, the knee first and loot next; thence around the waist, then around the knee, then around the ankle; tho=e measures should beset down with dots between them to distinguish them, and be very particular in applying your measures and in taking them, when you come up an H from the O to get the open of the pant*, you use the scale of the waist measure; vou should shape the lore part of the gaither pantaloons rounding and any other additional shape that fashi/u may rpqnire. i iM TJflE QiA&MKN'T CWmO-ii AND r.ADUJS (jWJII^E. ..~.«^rr»^«K« particular to observe the shape of the person you are cutting for; inquiring of the person at the same time what kind ol coat —or whether he wfints a loose coat or a tight fitting coat, in as much as it is extremely un- comfortable to some persons to be drawn up by a tight fitting coat, par- ticularly ageu men. When you begin to take measures upon the customer,you begin by la) T - ing the end of the tape measure up- o! the large bone at the joining of the neck and body, called by some the socket bone of the neck: thence on down to gel the length cf the waist, next get the length of the waist no the figure representing the length, ex- tending the tape to get the length of the skirt ; then down the entire length; that being two measures- set down separate, with a dot be. tween them; next measure the mid die of the hack seam to the elbow? holding ihe tape measure at the point of the elbow, causing the person to bend his arm, extending the measure to tli ■* band: that being four measures set down as before stated with dots between them; the measure is around tne arm at the body, five; the next around the elbow, six; the next around the hand, seven; the next middle col- at it. as you are aware you can ol make a guess and regular rule work You will remember that there are three measures taken for a ladies' dress, beginning at the top of the dress in the back to the length rf the waist; the next around the breast; the next around the waisr, that i« the 3; whatever the lady may maasure around the breast in inches thai is the number of scale to select, as you will find the scale numbered at the bottom of ea< h scale. lar seam around down before to u. have sponged the seam, with your goose or iron, being hot, take a scrap and try the heat of your iron, and if your iron wiil no\ scorch in half a minute it will not scorch at all, and when you fipply the iron or goose Lpply it easily, the point being in the seam; and when you go the full length of tne iron do not shove it to ihe right or left, but let it set and bear all your wait on if, until it has killed the seam dead, then it will never rise or puff. 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